PEEFUMEET AND KINDRED AETS. A COMPREHENSIVE TEEATISE ON PERFUMERY, CONTAINING A HISTORY OF PERFUMES, A COMPLETE DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE RAW MATERIALS AND APPARATUS USED IN THE PERFUMER'S ART; THOROUGH PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS, CAREFUL FORMULA, AND ADVICE AS TO THE FABRICATION OF ALL THE BEST PREPARATIONS OF THE DAY: INCLUDING ESSENCES, TINCTURES, EXTRACTS, SPIRITS, WATERS, VINEGARS, POMADES, POWDERS, PAINTS, OILS, EMULSIONS, COSMETICS, INFUSIONS, PASTILS, TOOTH POWDERS AND WASHES, CACHOUS, HAIR DYES, SACHETS, ESSENTIAL OILS, FLAVORING EXTRACTS, ETC., AND FULL DETAILS FOR MAKING AND MANIPULATING FANCY TOILET SOAPS, SHAVING CREAMS, ETC., BY NEW AND IMPROVED METHODS. WITH AN APPENDIX, GIVING DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DOMESTIC WINES, CORDIALS, LIQUORS, CANDIES, JELLIES, SYRUPS, ETC., AND FOR PERFUMING AND FLAVORING SEGARS, SNUFF, AND TOBACCO, AND MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR VARIOUS USEFUL ANALOGOUS ARTICLES. BY R S. CRISTIAlSri, CONSULTING CHEMISV ANI? >^B,yCM3R, PHIT,A1SEJ.PHI A. PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BA1RD & CO., INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS, AND IMPORTERS, 810 WALNUT STREET. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. 1877. COPYRIGHT BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO, 1877. PHILADELPHIA: COLLINS, PRINTER. 70") Jayne Street. PREFACE. IN giving to the trade and the public generally the result of his experience of thirty years in the manufacture and sale of articles appertaining to the perfumer's art, the author does not claim to have originated every preparation here enume- rated. He does, however, claim that, with this experience, combined- with a knowledge of chemistry, both theoretical and practical, he is enabled properly to judge of the materials of which these articles are composed, as well as of the most simple and the right mode of compounding them. Accord- ingly, he has adopted an original and simplified system in the arrangement of the subjects and in the preparation of the various compounds, which will enable any one of ordinary intelligence readily soon to fit himself to produce every valuable variety of perfume, soap, and cosmetic at present known. The recipes and formulas given have been carefully revised, and are generally devoid of all substances which can be at all injurious ; and will be found to be the most pleasant and the most useful for their various purposes possible. While a large body of them are entirely original, the author has for obvious reasons refrained from adding his name to any but a few. In the Appendix will be found ^many recipes of a kindred nature, which, while useful, either did not come under any of his special classifications, or were not deemed of sufficient importance to be placed in the body of the book. 3G5945 IV PREFACE. Most of the existing works on perfumery belong to one of two classes: the first filled with old and obsolete, or impossi- ble recipes of no use whatever at the present time ; the second written in an ambiguous style and intended to direct attention to the virtues of particular preparations made and sold by the authors of these books, but with no intention whatever that the reader shall be informed how such preparations are actually made. In this connection, the present author would state that he has no secrets of this character which he has attempted or desired to withhold from his readers. The climate of the United States is so diversified, and in many parts so well adapted to the cultivation of numerous plants which are useful to the perfumer, that the author hopes by this treatise to awaken attention to the practica- bility of establishing flower farms and orange groves, as well as to the utilization of many indigenous plants now neglected, but with odors peculiarly adapted to the uses of this art. In a national point of view the industries of perfumery and toilet soaps are of great importance ; and with us, while giving increased employment to labor, their development will add increased wealth to the country, and enable us to become daily more and more independent of the supplies we now receive from abroad ; and finally, in time, ourselves to become large exporters of such products, for which there is a great and growing market throughout the world. PHILADELPHIA, Sept. 15, 1877. CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. CHAPTER II. HISTORY OF PERFUMES. CHAPTER III. THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. CHAPTER IV. MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. PAOK Allspice or Pimento ; Almonds . . . . . . .45 Ambergris ; Aniseed ; Star Aniseed ; Ambrette ; Balm ; Balsam of Peru 46 Balsam of Tolu ; Bay; Bergamot; Bigarrade; Benzoin . . .47 Caraway; Cardamon ; Cascarilla; Cassia; Cassie .... 48 Cedar; Cedrat; Citronella; Civet; Cloves; Coriander ... 49 Dill ; Eglantine or Sweetbrier ; Elder ; Fennel ; Flag ; Geranium ; Ginger Grass 50 Heliotrope ; Honeysuckle or Woodbine ; Hovenia ; Iris ; Jasmine ; Jonquil; Laurel .51 Lavender; Lemon; Lemon Grass . . . . . . .52 Lilac; Lily; Limette; Mace; Magnolia; Marjoram; Meadow Sweet f>3 Melissa; Mignonette; Mirbane; Mint; Myrtle; Myrrh . . . 54 Musk; Musk Seed; Narcissus; Neroli .... 55 Nutmeg; Orange; Olibanum; Orris or Iris . . . . .56 Palm Oil; Patchouly; Petit-grain; Sweet Pea; Pink . .57 Rhodium ; Rose ; Rosemary ; Sage .... . . 58 Santal; Serpolet ; Sassafras; Storax ; Thyme . .59 Tonquin; Tolu; Tuberose; Vanilla; Verbena . . M Violet ; Vitivert ; Wintergreen ; Ylang Ylang . CHAPTER V. THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. Instruments for Distillation The Water-Bath -67 Distillation by Steam .69 Glass Alembics and Retorts ..... Furnace with Hot Water to Melt Pomades and Philocomes . 71 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. TINCTURES. PAOE Tincture of Ambergris ; of Ambrette . . . . . .72 Tincture of Archil ; of Alkanet ; of Benzoin ; of Cinnamon ; of Cedar 73 Tincture of Civet; of Cantharidcs ; of Cochineal; of Gamboge ; of Myrrh ; of Musk 74 Tincture of Santal ; of Patchouly ; of Styrax ; of Tonquin . . 75 Tincture of Turmeric ; of Tolu Balsam ; of Peru Balsam ; of Saffron ; of Vanilla 76 Tincture of Vitivert . . . . . . . . . .77 CHAPTER VII. EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. Extract of Cassie, No. 1 ; of Jasmine, No. 1 ; of Orange-flower, No. 1 ; of Rose, No. 1 ; of Tuberose, No. 1 79 Extract of Violet 80 Essential Oils 80 Extract d' Acacia (Cassie) ; d'Amande Amare ..... 82 Bouquet d'Alhambra; D'Aspasia; Extrait d' Ambrette; Extract of Auberpine 83 Extrait d'Ambre ; Bouquet d' Amour ; Brazilian Bouquet ... 84 Extract of Bergamot ; Essence Bouquet ; Bosphorous Bouquet . . 85 Centennial Bouquet ; Bouquet de Caroline ; Extract of Cedar of Leba- non 86 Extrait de Chypr6 ; Caprice de la Mode ; Cashmere Nosegay . . 87 Bouquet de Cytheria ; Cosmopolitan Bouq[uet ; Extract of Damask Rose ; Bouquet des Dames 88 Extract of Eglantine ; Euosmia . . . . . . .89 Flowers of Erin; Bouquet d'Imperatrice ; Extrait de Frangipani . 90 Florentine Bouquet ; Bouquet de Fee ; Bouquet de Flora . . . 91 Extrait des Fleurs des Champs ; Extrait des Fleurs d' Italic . . 92 Bouquet d'Indes; Extrait de Fleur d' Orange; Extract of Geranium . 93 Gypsy Nosegay ; Hedyosmia ; Extrait an Heliotrope ... 94 Extract of Honeysuckle ; of Hovenia ; Honeymoon Bouquet . . 95 Extrait a la Jacinthe ; au Jasmin ; a la Jonquille ; Jockey Club Bou- quet .90 Kiss-Me- Quick ; Extrait de Lilas 97 Extract of Lily of the Valley ; of Garden Lavender ; of Magnolia . 98 Extrait des Fleurs de Mai ; Bouquet de Mille-fleura .... 99 Extract of Meadow-sweet ; of Moss Rose ; Extrait de Muse . . 100 Bouquet de Marechale ; Extract of Narcissus; of New-mown Hay . 101 Extract of Night-blooming Cereus ; Extrait d'CEillet . . .102 Bouquet d' Odalisque ; Extract of Opoponax ; Oriental Drops . . 103 Extract of Patchouly ; Extrait de la Fleur de Pesche . . .104 CONTENTS. vii v PAGE Extract of Primrose ; Extrait du Pois dc Sontenr ; Extract of Pond Lily 105 Bouquet de la Reine ; du Roi 106 Extrait a la Rose ; Extract of Bendelatia ; Extrait de Reseda . .107 Extract of Spring Flowers ; Extrait du Bois de Santal ; Extract of Sweet Brier ; of Syringia; Extrait Sauve . . . . .108 Extract of Summer Blossoms ; of Sweet Clover . . . .109 Extract of Sweet Flag ; of Tea Rose ; of Tuberose . . . .110 Extract of Tulip ; Bouquet du Turquie ; Extract of Vanilla . .111 Extrait de Verveine ; Extract of Violet ; Bouquet de Venus . .112 Extract of Volkameria ; of Wall-flower ; of Wisteria . . .113 West-end Bouquet ; Yacht Club Bouquet ; Extract of Ylang Ylang . 114 CHAPTER VIII. AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. No. 1, Eau de Cologne (J. M. Farina) ; No. 2, Cologne (French re- cipe) ; No. 3, Cologne (second quality) 119 No. 4, Eau de Cologne (Cristiani's) ; Cologne Oil (Cristiani's Cologne Essence) . . . . . . . . . . .120 Eaud'Ange; De Beaut6 ; de Bouquet de Fleur .... 121 Eau de Grand Duchesse ; Florida W r ater (Cristiani's) ; Eau de Fee . 122 Geranium Water ; Hedyosmia Water ; Heliotrope Water . . .123 Eau de Lavand ; Lavand Ambr6 ; Hungary Water . . . .124 Eau dc Miel ; de Millefleur ; de Romain 125 Eau de Sultana ; Eau Hygienique ; de Mousseline . . . .126 Eau de Violette de Parme ; Eau Vulneraire ; Eau de Vanille . . 127 Verbena Water ; Bay Rum 128 Vinaigre Aromatique (De Bully) ; Cologne Vinegar . . . .129 Henry's Vinegar; Vinaigre des Quatre Voleurs .... 130 Vinaigre a la Rose ; a la Violette . . . . . . .131 Ammoniated Cologne Water ; Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia ; Eau de Luce 132 Volatile Essence .......... 133 CHAPTER IX. SACHET POWDERS, ETC. Bouquet Sachet ; Sachet au Cypre 134 Sachet a la Frangipane ; Heliotrope Sachet ; Geranium Sachet . . 135 Magnolia Sachet ; Musk Sachet ; Millefleur Sachet ; New- mown Hay Sachet . . . . 136 Patchouly Sachet ; Rose Sachet ; Verbena Sachet ; Violet Sachet . 137 West-end Sachet ; Pot-Pourri ; Cassolettes 138 Pastilles Fumantes ; Santal- wood Pastils 139 Fumigating Pastils ; Cristiani's Pyrosmia . . . . . .140 Perfumed Leather . . . . . .141 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN. PAGE Almond Lotion ; Amandine 14.'5 Cucumber Lotion ; Camphor Lotion ; Elder Flower Emulsion . .144 Cosmetic Cream of Lilies (Cristiani's) ; Balsam of Honey . . . .14") Glycerine Balm ; Lait Virginal ; Cold Cream (Cristiani's) . . . 146 Cold Cream of Violets ; Cucumber Cream ; Glycerine Cream . .147 Camphor Ice, with Glycerine (Cristiani's) ; Pistuchio Nut Cream or Lotion ; Aqua Ornatus 148 Sulphur Lotion ; Eukcsis or Essence of Soap ; Emil Blanc . .149 Pomade Divine ; Camphor Balls . . . . . . .150 luxe Lip Salve ; Blanc de Perle . . . . . . .151 i:or<;E8 AND PAINTS FOR THE FACE. Bloom of Roses (Liquid Rouge) 151 Vinaigre de Rouge ; Rouge de Theatre ; Crepon Rouge ; Chinese Card Rouge; Pink Saucers ; Lily White or Pearl Powder . . .152 Violet Toilet Powder ; Rose Toilet Powder ; Poudre de Riz . .153 Lycopodium Powder ; Cosmetic Almond Powder ; Sulphuretted Toilet Powder 154 Meen Fun ; Cosmetic Gloves ; Glove Cosmetic ; Glycerine Jelly for the Skin 155 Lip Balm; Fard Bleu ; Fard Noir 156 CHAPTER XI. POMADES AND COSMETICS. Benzoin Pomade (or body) ; Tonquin Pomade i:>s Vanilla Pomade ; Yellow Body; Red Body ; Green Body . . .159 Pomade d' Acacia . . . . . . . . . .160 Pomade Balsamique ; Bear's Grease Pomade; Benzoin Pomade ; Po- made an Beurre de Cacao 161 Castor-oil and Glycerine Pomade ; Cowslip Pomade ; Crystalline Po- made . . .162 Crystal Pomade ; Geranium Pomade ; Heliotrope Pomade . . . 163 Pomade a la Jacinthe ; au Jasmin ; Jonquille Pomade ; Lavender Po- made . 164 Limette Pomade ; Mayflower Pomade ; Macassar Pomade . . .165 Marrow Pomade ; Mille-ileur Pomade ; Musk Pomade ; Myrtle Blossom Pomade 166 Narcissus Pomade ; Neroli Pomade ; Orange-flower Pomade ; Oriental Cream 167 Palma-Rosa Pomade ; Philocome Pomade ; Primrose Pomade . .168 Quinine Pomade ; Pomade Romaine ; Pomade Romaine a la Ambrosie 169 Rondelatia Pomade ; Pomade a la Rose ; Pomade a la Sultane . . 1 70 CONTENTS. IX PAGE Tuberose Pomade ; Vanilla Pomade ; Verbena Pomade ; Violet Po- made, No. 1 171 Violet Pomade, No. 2 ; White Pond Lily Pomade ; White Kose Po- made ; Ursalina . . . . . . . . . .172 Phenolin Pomade ; Pomade Hongroise (for the Moustache) ; Pomade Hongroise (White) 173 Circ a Moustache ; Philocome Pomade ; Philocome a la Mousseline . 1 74 Philocome Moelle de Boeuf 175 Cosmetics or Stick Pomatums . . . . . . . .175 Violet Cosmetic . . . . . . . . . .176 CHAPTER XII. HAIR OILS AND HAIR TONICS. Huile & 1' Ambre ; Huile Antique au Bouquet . . . . .178 Huile Antique & la Fleur de Granger ; & la Heliotrope ; au Jasmine ; au Millefleur 179 Huile Antique & la Rose ; & la Tuberose ; & la Vanille ; & la Violette . 180 Huile Philocome ; Huile Hygienique ; Bear's Oil . . . .181 Aromatic Oil of Flowers ; Coral Hair Oil ; Brazilian Hair Oil ; Chi- nese Hair Oils 182 Grecian Golden Oil ; Glycerine Hair Oil ; Florentine Hair Oil ; Indian Hair Oil 183 Japanese Hair Oil; Macassar Oil; Huile de Noisette . . . .184 Rose Hair Oils 185 Cristiani's Chemical Cathairon; Cristiani's Cococydonia . . . 18G Eau Lustral 187 Brazilian Amber Gloss ; Glycerine and Lime-juice ; Ammoniated Hair Tonic 188 Tonique de The" ; Glycerine Hair Tonic ; Eau Athenian . .189 Quinine Hair Tonic ; Camphor Lotion for the Hair ; Rosemary Hair Wash; Bay Rum Hair Tonic .190 Curling Fluid ; Cristiani's Shampoo Lotion ; Shampoo Liquid ; Bando- line ; Bandoline & la Rose . . . . .191 Quince Seed Fixature or Bandoline . -CHAPTER XIII. HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES. Lead Dye ; Indian Hair Dye . .194 Egyptian Hair Dye ; Hair Color Restorer ; Bismuth Dye . .195 Colornerus (Silver Dye) ; Another Silver Dye . .196 Silver Dyes . . . . .197 Italian Hair Dye . . . ... . .198 Vegetable Hair Dye ; German Vegetable Hair Dye . . . .199 Powder Blond ; Pommade Blonde . .200 Poudre Epilatoire ; Poudre Subtile ; Depilatory Liquid . .201 Depilatory Pomade ; Eyebrow Pencil X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. THE TKKTM, TIIK (Jr.Ms, AND TIIK BRKATII. PAGE Rose Tooth Powder (Cristismi's) ; Poudre Dentifrice Allemande . 20 4 Poudre Dentifrice do ]\Ienthe; Detergent Tooth Powder; Campho- rated Dentifrice ; Chare* >al Tooth Powder ..... '205 Coral Tooth Powder ; Aromatic Tooth Powder ; Poudre Dentifrice Ilygieiiique (Cristiani's) 206 Peruvian Tooth Powder ; Soap Dentifrice ...... 207 Rose Tooth Paste ; Coral Tooth Paste; Charcoal Tooth Paste . . 208 Aromatic Pooth Paste ; Peruvian Tooth Paste ; Soap Tooth Paste ; Violet Tooth Paste 209 Odentine Paste (Cristiani's) ; Opiate Tooth Paste .... 210 EauRotot; Opal Dentiline ; Camphor Balsam 211 Detergent Tooth Wash (Cristiani's) ; Elixir Odontolgiqoe . . .212 Oriental Styptic; Pyrethene Tooth Wash; Opiate Tooth Wash; Violet Tooth Wash 213 Dental Pastils (Cristiani's) 214 Chlorine Pastils ; Pellitory Masticatory Pastils (Cristiani's) . . .215 Aromatic Opiate Masticatory Pastils ; Cachou Aromatise (Cristiani's) 21 G Arome dn Bonche 217 Cachous des Dames (Cristiani's) ....... 218 Lozenges . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 CHAPTER XV. ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR TESTS. Oil of Almonds 226 Oil of Aniseed ; of Cloves ; of Cinnamon ; of Bergamot ; of Laven- der ; of Hoses ; of Sassafras 227 Oil of Thyme .228 Quantity of Essential Oils yielded by Various Plants . . . .228 CHAPTER XVI. DISTILLED WATERS AND ESSENCES. CHAPTER XVII. FLAVORING EXTRACTS AND FRUIT FLAVORS. Extract of Almonds ; of Apricot ; of Apple ; of Banana ; of Black- berry 237 Extract of Celery; of Cinnamon; of Cherry; of Cloves; of Cocoa; of Collee 238 Extract of Ginger; of Jargonelle Pear; of Lemon; of Xutmegs; of Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Extract of Orange Flowers; of Peach; of Pineapple; of Plums; of Rose. 240 Extract of Raspberry ; of Strawberry ; of Vanilla . . . .241 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XVIII. TOILET SOAPS. IMPLEMENTS AND INGREDIENTS. CHAPTER XIX. TOILET SOAPS. MANIPULATION. PAGE White Soap 270 Palm Soap 272 Palm Soap with Rosin 273 Cocoa-nut Oil Soap 274 CHAPTER XX. TOILET SOAPS BY THE COLD PROCESS. A Fine White Soap .......... 278 Almond Soap 279 Yellow Soap . ; . . 279 Half Palm Soap with Rosin ........ 280 CHAPTER XXI. CASTILE SOAP FROM COTTON-SEED OIL. White Castile Soap 283 Mottled Castile Soap 284 CHAPTER XXII. COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS. Honey Soap ; Glycerine Soap ; Marsh-mallow Soap ; Rose Soap ; White Windsor Soap 287 Brown Windsor Soap 288 Benzoin Soap 289 Ambergris or Ambrosial Soap ; Bouquet Soap . ... . . 290 Lettuce Soap ; Musk Soap . . . . . .. . .291 Millefleur Soap (superfine) ; Violet Soap (superfine) . . . .292 CHAPTER XXIII. MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS. Shaving Cream 293 Floating Soaps . . . . . . ... . . . 294 Nymph Floating Soap ; Powdered Soaps 295 Sapophane or Oleophane ; Soap Essences 296 Transparent Soaps . . . . .. ^ . . . .297 Wash Balls or Savonettes . .... 299 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIV. MILLING AND Mori. DIM; TOILET SOAI->. PAGE Bouquet Soap ; Rose Soap ; Marsh-mallow Soap .... 305 Elder Flower Soap ; Oatmeal Soap ....... 306 Erasive Soap, for removing Grease Spots from Clothes . . .307 Soaps by Patent Processes 307 APPENDIX. SECTION I. SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES THEIR FLAVORS AND COLORS. Strawberry Syrup . . . . . . . . . .312 Blackberry, Cherry, Pineapple, Peach, Raspberry, Banana, and Lemon Syrups ............ 313 Orange, Catawba, Coffee, Rose, and Orgeat Syrups . . . .314 Sarsaparilla and Sherbet Syrups . . . . . . .315 Vanilla, Cream, Lemon, Ginger, and Sarsaparilla Syrups . . .316 Raspberry Syrup ; Raspberry Vinegar ; Fruit Jellies . . . .317 Currant and Quince Jellies . . . . . . . .318 Fruit Acid. Kissengen, Vichy, and Seidlitz Waters . . . .319 Spa and Saratoga Waters .320 SECTION II. LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. Blackberry Wine 323 Raisin Wine . . . . . . . . . . .324 London Sherry ; Champagne; Burgundy 325 Malaga and Claret Wines ; Champagne Cider . . . . .326 Cider; Ginger Ale ; Spruce Beer ; Root Beer 327 Mead; Pineapple Cider ; Cognac Brandy ; Apple Brandy . . .328 Holland Gin ; Jamaica Rum ; Baume de Vie 329 Wine Bitters ; Aromatic Herb Bitters 330 LIQUORS AND CORDIALS. Essence d' Absinthe. Aniseed, Cinnamon, and Clove Cordials . .331 Curagoa, Ginger, Mint, and Orange-flower Cordials .... 332 Perfect Love, Noyau, Pineapple, Rose, and Strawberry Cordials . 333 Vanilla Cordial ; Usquebaugh ; Rum Shrub ; Vinegar . . . 334 SECTION III. FLAVORS AND PERFUMES FOR SEGARS AND TOBACCO. SECTION IV. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. SECTION V. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. SOLOMON remarks, "Ointments and perfumes re- joice the heart." Of all the five senses the faculty of smelling affords the most exquisite pleasure. Although to many it is the least valued, to the refined and cultivated it is the most esteemed ; for those who neglect to develop this pleasant faculty fail to appre- ciate " Nature's swift and silent working hand. The garden grows, and fills the Liberal air with sweetest odors/' and are often led to breathe vitiated air. Thus poi- son and malaria enter the system by neglecting the warning given by the nose, that outpost of the animal citadel. All persons using and appreciating per- fumes become most sensitive to the presence of bad air. If refinement consists in the knowledge of the best mode of enjoying the higher faculties we possess, we must learn to distinguish the melody of perfumes, as well as the harmony of color, form, and sound, and enjoy sweet odors equally with all other pleasures so liberally bestowed to gratify our senses. In a sanitary point of view, the use of perfumes is. 2 18 MEKT 'AK'D KINDRED ARTS. in the highest degree valuable. For although we cannot claim great curative properties for them, yet at the same time we hold that their moderate use is more beneficial than otherwise, and their refreshing properties have often been known to assist in re- storing the invalid to health. iMany think the use of perfumes and cosmetics pre- judicial to health, but in refutation it is only necessary to say, that when the cholera prevailed in Paris and London, all those persons who worked in the labora- tories of the perfumers escaped its ravages ; and as further evidence, when the Dutch on the island of Ternate destroyed the clove tree the colony suffered from epidemics and diseases unknown before. The large and increasing consumption of perfumery throughout the civilized world has made it one of the most important of the arts, and as we, in this country, increase in wealth and refinement, the use of per- fumery keeps pace with other luxuries. The con- stantly increasing value of perfumery as an article of commerce, has led to the enrichment of many parts of the world. Several districts of France, Italy, In- dia, and Turkey, where the flowers and materials are cultivated exclusively for the purpose, give employ- ment to large and prosperous populations. It may be in vain to expect that the United States will at this time devote much capital and labor to the cultivation of the raw materials of perfumery, yet it cannot be long before we shall see the importance of it. With our varied climate and soil, and our usual enterprise, we may soon hope to rival the old world in its present monopoly. The writer, after an experience of thirty years in the manufacture and sale of perfumery and fancy soaps, INTRODUCTORY. 19 is led to think that he can usefully apply his knowl- edge and experience as a guide to the manufacturer and dealer, to the proper formulae for preparing the various articles now in use, and as a chemist and pharmacist in cautioning the purchaser against dele- terious and improper compositions. From this long experience he is impelled to the preparation of this treatise by a knowledge of the many errors of judgment committed by those who have no proper understanding of the harmony of per- fumes, and who, from a want of this knowledge, often use improper odors, or such as are useless and wasted for the purposes intended, and who may, by his assistance, be led to the use of those which are appropriate to their several manufactures. For, singular as it may appear to the uninitiated, each article made seems to require a perfume properly adapted to its nature or to the use to which it is to be applied. Until quite recently, those who followed the art of perfumery endeavored to surround it by a mys- terious secrecy. Now, however, all may learn the secrets of the craft ; for although a chemical art, and a knowledge of the elements of that science, and a study of the properties of the materials, will greatly facilitate an operator in it, such are by no means absolutely essential to skill and success with a person of ordinary intelligence. The author has also a desire that his treatise may impart to the people of the United States the fact of the adaptability of their country to the cultivation of much of the material used by the perfumer. Hitherto our attention has been more particularly devoted to the more useful arts, and we have and still do import 20 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. from foreign countries nearly all the finer goods and the most important materials used. Yet there are so many parts of our country which possess the proper climate for the growth and maturity of the flowers now used in perfumery, and which doubtless have native plants from which new and pleasant odors may be extracted, that attention may properly be called to the importance of this subject; so that the plants may be cultivated for its use, and new discov- eries made which will promote it, and thus add to our wealth and our refinement and pleasure. To France we must yield the palm of being in the first rank in the art of perfumery ; to it we have to look for the finest material used in its fabrication. England, by virtue of her moist climate, has attained superiority in the growth of a few plants, whose odors are much prized. India and Turkey also de- vote much attention to the culture of many fine and indispensable articles. To our own country we look for but few articles now used by the perfumer. In rny history of perfumes I shall try to interest my readers with .a view of the progress of per- fumery from the earliest times to the present ; how the ancients used it in all their sacred rites ; and how it was gradually adapted to private uses ; how it was studied and cherished by all the various nations which held in turn the sceptre of intelligence and civilization ; how it was transmitted from Persia to Egypt, to the Jews, to the Assyrians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the Arabs, and finally to modern nations. I shall try to trace its course through all these different phases and record its progress down to the present period. Who has not experienced that indescribable cmo-"' INTRODUCTORY. 21 tion that invades the whole being, the soul melting in rapture, when nature awakes from her slumbers in the spring and shakes off the trammels of hoary winter, and with her richest perfumes fills the balmy air with refreshing fragrance ? Does it not silently fill each and every one of us with homage and grati- tude to the Creator of the great blessings bestowed upon us, and as Thomson sings " Soft roll your incense, herbs, and fruits, and flowers, In mingled clouds to Him whose sun exalts, Whose breath perfumes you, and whose pencil paints." * -X- * * * -* # * " Fair-handed Spring 1 unbosoms every grace. Throws out the snowdrop and the crocus first ; The daisy, primrose, violet darkly blue, And polyanthus of unnumbered dyes ; The yellow wall-flower, stained with iron brown, And lavish stock that scents the garden round." Besides these emotions excited by pleasant odors, they have other and charming influences on the mind. They are associated with our most pleasant enjoy- ments, and have also the property of refreshing the memory, recalling scenes in which they held a promi- nent part, or in which entered for pleasure or sorrow " The smell of violets hidden in the green, Pours back into my empty soul and frame, The time when I remembered to have been Joyful and free from blame." Some delicate people may be affected painfully by certain odors, but it is generally imaginary. While to some a musky scent would give a headache, the odors of the citron would afford relief. Dr. Ca- pelli relates the story of^a lady who could not bear the smell of the rose, and fainted on receiving a visit from a friend' who carried one, and yet the fatal flower was only artificial, showing that the bad effects attributed to p.erfumes by some persons are more or less the 22 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. result of imagination, or come from mental action through association of previous ideas as to the effects. Desiring to write a practical treatise, I have en- deavored to keep in view the capabilities and facili- ties which the American perfumer may possess for procuring the principal materials he needs in his art, and my experience has caused me to adopt a system of manipulation and terms most easily understood by him. The various terms and numerous systems of the European books result in much confusion to the American perfumer, and while there may appear a certain monotony there will be found in experience a great variety in eifect. And let me here remark that much attention should be bestowed upon the clean- liness and neatness, if not elegance, of putting up the different articles, the additional trouble and ex- pense always being repaid in the enhanced price or increased sale of the article. In the articles of glass- ware this country now rival s Europe in its products, and is constantly improving. So also in the porce- lain jars and earthen-ware a great advance has been made, but for many of the finest goods we still go to Europe. In my chapters on soaps, I have also kept to the most practical instructions, for, though a chemical art, it is most easily understood when plain terms and results are given. Having all the different mate- rials at hand, or made ready for our use, there should be no difficulty to a person of average intelligence in conducting the different branches and processes of the art. I have given my formulas and manipula- tions, based upon practice, and have commented on new substances to produce new articles, or to im- prove the methods formerly in use. HISTORY OF PERFUMES. 23 The American mind, open to all improvements, taking a lively interest in all that is new and meri- torious, is constantly alive to new methods and the latest results. Let this desire continue, for it is this interest and this desire for improvement that stimu- late the manufacturer to devote attention to the production of novelties, and an endeavor to out- strip his rivals in making something that will excel them, and from this rivalry, the people are benefited in having goods constantly improving in style, ele- gance, and quality. CHAPTER II. HISTORY OF PERFUMES. THE origin of perfumery, like most of the ancient arts, is shrouded in obscurity. Arabia has long en- joyed, and still retains the name of the land of per- fumes. The first mention of perfumes is of their use as incense, as man, in first discovering their nature, in his first emotions of pleasure and gratitude, offered up their fragrance in worship to his deity; hence the derivation of the word, per (through) fumum (smoke), clearly indicating that perfumery was first recognized by burning aromatic woods, spices, and gums. Perfumes seem to have been first imported from Persia, and were very important articles of commerce between that country and Egypt. The caravans that traversed the great deserts carried great quan- tities of gums and spices, as the Egyptians, the most PERFUMERY AXD KINDRED ARTS. civilized and cultivated of ancient nations, used them in great profusion, both in their sacred rites and for private purposes. From the Egyptians the use of perfumes was transmitted to the Jews, thence to the Assyrians, the Greeks, the Eomans, the Arabs, and the Turks. The Holy Scriptures furnish us with abundant details of the use of perfumes, as Moses was commanded to speak to the Children of Israel that their offerings to the temples should be spices and gums and anointing oils. In those' ancient days, the priests alone seem to have possessed the art and mystery of compounding perfumes for private uses as well as for incense for their altars, and their use became very great, and some that have been excavated with the mummies retain their odor after the lapse of nearly four thou- sand years. At festivals, public or private, perfumes and flowers were used in great profusion, and incense was burned, and music charmed the ear; showing the great luxu- riance and refinement of that period. To the Egyp- tians is due the invention of the system of baths that was handed down to all Eastern nations, and imitated by Greeks an'd Romans, as also the cus- tom of embalming the dead, which was also pactised by the Jews, as the Gospel mentions that Nicodemus "brought a mixture of myrrh and aloes about an hundred weight, then took they the body of Jesus and wound it in linen cloths with the spices, as the manner of the Jews is to bury." 1 1 The "Balm of (Jilead, so often mentioned in Scripture, was from a rid^e of mountains running southward from Mount Lebanon, east of the Holy Innd, which was covered with the shrub that yields the gum, and many fields in Palestine were full of these balsam trees. HISTORY OF PERFUMES. 25 The Asiatics acquired the use of perfumes and practised it in great profusion, and flowers were ex- tensively cultivated, as we read of Nineveh and Babylon among the wonders of the world, and de- scriptions of their gardens, their altars on high places. And, according to Herodotus, the consumption of per- fumes was so great, that besides the production of their own country, they received from Arabia a thou- sand talents of frankincense, and he tells us of the great consumption of aromatics and perfumes, and of the great cost of many of these scents, and of their universal use. All these nations paid great attention to the hair and beard, which were usually lavishly perfumed and curled. Many wore wigs instead of their natu- ral hair as a protection against the heat of the sun. The custom of anointing the whole body with oil after bathing was due, no doubt, to the same cause, as this custom is yet practised by the natives of Africa as a protection against the extreme heat of the climate. The Greeks, whose deities were as numerous as the stars, almost always associated perfumes with the presence of the gods and goddesses, and attributed skill in the compounding of perfumes to the marvel- lous, and gave the name of magicians to those who prepared them. Venus is described as sprinkled with perfumes, and Pallas, the goddess of wisdom, anointed with oil when practising the exercises of the palastra, and to their use is attributed the great beauty of Helen of Troy. Perfumes were generally supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, so much so as to cause the recipes for many of the most celebrated essences and cos- 26 PERFUMERY A!X T D KINDRED ARTS. metics to be inscribed on marble tablets in some of their temples. Tbe rose in those days was considered no less beneficial than beautiful, and formed the basis of many remedies. The Romans as they advanced in civilization adopted the luxuries and habits of the nations they conquered, and used perfumes in the same profusion as the Greeks, from whom they seem to have acquired the use, as they were of the same general nature. They used them at public festivals, and for private and religious purposes, and after burning their dead mixed perfumes with the ashes in the funeral vase. So great and universal was this use of perfumes that their generals when going upon a military cam- paign carried essences and cosmetics to adorn their persons, and among the spoils in the camp of Darius, Alexander found quantities of these substances with all the luxurious appliances of the toilet. In the ruins of Pompeii have been discovered hand- some bottles with perfumes and ointments, and all the appurtenances of the toilet and bath which tend to show the refinement of the ancient Romans. The Roman perfumers called Unguentari occupied a certain part of the city in the Velabrum, and in Capua, a city noted for its luxury, they occupied a whole street of the town called Seplasia, and some of their products are described as exceedingly costly. The custom of using flowers and perfumes at their feasts was very common, and no banquet was con- sidered complete without them, and the decoration with flowers is described as very profuse, and even their drinking cups were adorned with flowers. Distillation is said to have been discovered by an Arabian doctor named Avecinna, who was also the HISTORY OF PERFUMES. 27 first to apply the principles of chemistry so imper- fectly known to earlier nations. To him also is as- cribed the invention of rose-water, which was con- sidered a great discovery, and was at the same time used as a remedy for nearly all diseases, as well as a perfume and cosmetic. It was customary to use this perfume to sprinkle the floors of apartments, and bottles were formed for the purpose, which were also used to sprinkle guests when they arrived at a feast. Mahomet encouraged the use of perfumes among his followers, and makes frequent mention of them as a part of the many attractions of his paradise, and musk is often named by him. This perfume, so much admired by all orientals, is the strongest and most lasting, and it seems singular that the warmer the climate the greater is the love of strong per- fumes, for we read of a mosque with the mortar of which this perfume was mixed, which gave out its perfume whenever the sun shone upon it. The oriental ladies use great quantities of c.ostly perfumes and cosmetics, and the duties of the toilet are their most important occupation, no doubt tend- ing to preserve their personal charms. Living in an atmosphere of fragrance, they are kept in a state of dreamy languor, which to them may be the nearest approach to happiness. They are noted for their skill in retaining their charms by these various means. Lady Mary "Wortley Montague, who lived many years in eastern lands, gives us many interesting details of the habits and customs of the orientals, of their costumes and mode of dressing the hair, and the uses of cosmetics and perfumes. ~Jiv India-perfumes are used in the form of incense in sacrifices offered in their temples and upon their > PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. altars, and the private use of unguents and perfumes is very great among the wealth^, and their priests color their faces with an ointment of saffron, and when the suttee was in vogue, widows pe'rished on piles of burning aromatic wood. To that country we are indebted for much of the celebrated otto of rose, as at Ghazepore, situated on the Ganges, near Benares, the flower is cultivated for the manufacture of this universally admired perfume. Among the celestials perfumes have been in use from the earliest times, and if it be true as they claim that their history extends to thousands of years before our own, they may have been in use for countless ages. Joss-sticks and tinsel paper are burned as incense to their gods, and the consumption is very great, as Canton alone is said to have ten thousand manufactories. Morning and evening they burn them before their idols. Noted for their many ceremo- nies, they are also celebrated for their profuse use of perfumes in nearly all their observances of a pub- lic or private nature. The Chinese have an alkaline earth called "Kee\i," which they use as a substitute for soap, of which they make but little ; but they use various cosmetics, and shave their heads except a tuft on the top, giving occupation to a great many barbers, who also combine bleeding and other surgical operations with their calling. In Japan the customs are similar to those of China, and their perfumes are much the same, although, being a more progressive country, they are gradually adopting the products, as well as the manners of foreign countries, and now import from Europe many articles of perfumery and cosmetic. The ex- HISTORY OF PERFUMES. 29 hibit they made at our Centennial attracted great attention, and helpgd $o demonstrate to our country- men the great advuflce which they have made in arts and manufactures. The use of perfumes became almost obsolete in Europe after the fall of the Roman empire, but only for 31 brief space of time, for after the Crusades it again revived and soon became in general use. The gallant knights brought home to their 1 ally-loves the far-famed perfumes of the East, and specimens of the wonderful cosmetics-by means of which the beauties of the harems were enabled to preserve their charms. Perfumers came into prominent notice in the twelfth century in France when Philip Augustus granted them a charter which continued in force for several centuries, and was renewed and enlarged by Louis XIV. in 1658, and the craft became a very important one, and we read of the use of their pro- ducts in vast quantities. The Arabs, when they conquered Spain, introduced their numerous perfumes, and also the general use of their celebrated system of baths. Alcoholic perfumes and essences do not appear to have been known before the fourteenth century, when Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary, invented the cele- brated Hungary water, and is said to have by its use retained her beauty until she was past seventy years of age. In Italy, with the revival of the fine arts in the fifteenth century, luxuries were common among the merchant princes, and perfumes were largely con- sumed, and were adopted by all people of fashion, and the first book on the subject was written at this time, which contained many curious recipes. Cathe- 30 PERFUMERY AND KIXDRED ARTS. rinc de Medici s brought with her to France a Floren- tine named Rene, who established the first perfumery shop in Paris, which was a great resort for the beaux and belles of that period. During the reign of Henry III., the use and abuse of perfumes was denounced by the satirists of the day, and a book published at that time gives many curious recipes for perfuming gloves and various cosmetics, with recipes for a specific perfume against the plague, and a marvellous water warranted to make the ladies who used it beautiful forever. : Perfumes' in England were not in general use before the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when they seem to have been brought from Italy, and .soon became fashionable. During the plague perfumes were ex- tensively used as a preventive, and the prophylactic property of scents cannot be doubted, for when the cholera prevailed in Paris and London those who worked in the perfumery laboratories were exempt from its ravages ; nor has it been very long since medical practitioners used to carry on the tops of their canes cassolettes filled with aromatics, which they held to their noses when visiting contagions cases. Perfumes were in great favor in the reign of Charles II., "the merry monarch;" and the fashion of wearing patches on the face was common among the ladies, as it was supposed to give piquancy to the features ; and the use of hair powder was first introduced about this time, and continued for over two hundred years. Louis XIV. is said to have had a strong dislike to all perfumes ; but it may be doubted, for, by some, he is called the sweet-smelling monarch, and they were extensively used by his family and by all his HISTORY OF PERFUMES. 31 courtiers. In the reign of his successor, Louis XV., they were used in great extravagance, as fashion ordained their use in ever-varying routine, each day having its particular odors, the apartment of the palace being one day perfumed with tuberose, and the next with musk and saffron; nor were they confined to the fair sex, for the gallants gloried in all the favorite scents of their mistresses, and thus were often recog- nized by smelling of the favorite perfumes of the fair ones who enslaved them. Italy, in those days, excelled in the fineness of its products, and supplied the rest of Europe with the best perfumes then in use; and we read of large sums being expended for Italian perfumery and cosmetics by the Court of France. During the sanguinary days of the French Kevolu- tion, the use of perfumes was very much interrupted, but revived with other luxuries with the advent of Napoleon; and the Empress Josephine is said to have been passionately fond of them. About this time the venders of perfumery also sold various sorts of medicines and cure-alls, and were usually strolling charlatans, in gorgeous apparel, in elegant equipages, who addressed a gaping multitude extolling the vir- tues of their nostrums ; but when they became obnox- ious they were suppressed. The calling has since assumed greater consequence and importance, until, at present, it is in point of respectability excelled by none. The use of perfumes is not confined to civilized and refined countries, but is extensively practised among barbarous and savage nations ; though of perfumes of sweet scent they may know but little, yet to them a rancid smell may be the most pleasant. 32 PERFUMERY AND KIXDRED ARTS. The African chief anoints his hair and whole body with oil, often perfumed with herbs; though this prac- tice may be intended as a protection against the rays of a scorching sun, and his well-polished skin may be with him as fashionable as our shining boots. Dr. Livingstone and other African explorers give very interesting accounts of the manners and customs of that country, and often speak of the use of cos- metics and the fantastical modes of dressing the hair or wool, to which they seem to devote much care and attention. The natives of Australia, though they have many and rare perfumes and flowers, seem to prefer a bad smell to any perfume, which is also said to be the case with the Esquimaux. The custom of tattooing, which may be called a permanent cosmetic^ is prac- tised by the natives of New Zealand and by the Polynesians, who pride themselves upon the elegant arabesques that decorate their persons. The Tahitian women, who are generally handsome, devote much care and attention to their hair, which is usually long and beautiful, and use cocoa-nut oil, with various scents, in dressing it. The South American Indians also decorate their heads and hair with flowers and ribbons, and cut it straight off in front, something like the custom now prevalent among the votaries of fashion. In our country the Indians use a great variety of paints, that may be called cosmetics; and the various colors have a certain symbolism, as red denotes joy, while black signifies grief. The chief gives much time and trouble to this ornamentation, and endeavors to make himself frightful to his enemies or lovely in the eyes of his squaw. FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. 33 Of the fashions and perfumery of our own time it were needless to write, as they are fresh in the memory of all ; nor can we venture to give an opinion of their merits, as ladies alone are the best judges of what is fashionable and becoming, as well as to what is in good taste as a perfume. At the present day perfumes have become a neces- sity to all civilized nations, and the art of perfumery has, with the aid of chemistry, attained a leading rank, and the constantly increasing demand for fine odors testifies to their usefulness and efficiency. .CHAPTER III. THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS, ETC., FOR "PERFUMES. OUR readers have seen how we have endeavored to trace the history of perfumery from the earliest times up to the present period. We will now try to por- tray its present standing, uses, values, and great im- portance to commerce and to the world. Flowers, from whatever point of view we regard them, are replete with interest, and are a source of gratification and pleasure to all mankind. There is no heart, savage or civilized, that does not feel their influence in some degree ; they gratify the painter's eye, they charm the poet's fancy, and science finds engrossing interest in studying their structure and qualities. That man was not created for toil alone is evident, and among the many pleasures given him for his 3 34 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. enjoyment, flowers are not the least important ; they delight him in childhood, they interest him in man- hood, and they accompany him to the grave. How important then is the art of extracting their fragrance; forwhile flowers please and gratify the senses while fresh, they soon wither and fade. Shakspeare says : "But flowers distilled, though with winter meet. Lose but their show, their substance still lives sweet," Science teaches us the properties of perfumes, and art gives us the manner of their preparation; for flowers grow and yield their fragrance in all climates, but those that grow in warm latitudes are most pro- lific in odor, while those of colder climes are gener- ally the sweetest. They -owe their fragrance to molecules that require many different modes of ex- traction, which we shall describe anon. Though from the East we still obtain many valuable and indispensable perfumes, the south of Europe is now the only reliable source of supply, Cannes, Grasse and l^ice being the principal seats of flower culture for commerce; though we receive many odorous substances from India, Algeria, Turkey, Italy, and Spain, in fact wherever the plants and flowers grow the most abundantly, and the extraction of their odor is the most convenient and profitable. From the geographical position of the south of France and of Italy, this district possesses the most favorable climate peculiarly fitted for bringing to perfection the most odoriferous of flowers, such as the rose, jasmine, orange, etc. Thus they are cultivated on the largest scale, and there are hundreds of houses engaged in their pro- FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. 35 duction and sale, which give employment to many thousands of people and riches to the State. In these countries each plant seems to have its alloted place, as Cannes excels in the culture of the rose, cassie, jasmine, and tuberose; J^ismes of rose- mary and lavender, so Nice is celebrated for its violet and mignonette, while to Sicily we look for the citron and the orange. To Italy we are chiefly indebted for the citric odors, as lemon, bergamot, cedrat, and limette, with neroli, petit-grain, etc. ; from Turkey we receive the indispensable otto of rose. Algeria also is now making some progress in this manufacture, while Spain and Portugal furnish some odors, but not in the quantity that we should look for from their floral wealth. British India gives us cinnamon, cloves, patchouly, santal, ylang-ylang, and many odoriferous gums and spices. China yields musk, civet, and ambergris, which, though not pleasant in themselves, yet blended with other odors give them piquancy, strength, and durability. England excels in two important perfuming ingre- dients, viz., lavender and peppermint, for which its moist climate seems peculiarly adapted, as the plants have a mildness of fragrance unknown in other coun- tries. The United States has but two or three perfumes that as yet have commercial value, though we may hope that our extensive country and varied climate will soon produce many valuable materials and novel- ties for the perfumer's use. The odors of plants exist in different parts of them : sometimes in the wood, as in cedar and santal ; some- times in the leaves, as in patchouly and thyme; in 36 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. the seeds, as in caraway and tonquin; in the bark, as in cinnamon and cascarilla ; and again in the roots, as in orris and vitivert. Some plants yield more than one odor; the orange, for instance, has three one from the flowers called neroli, one from the leaves called petit-grain, another from the rind of the fruit called portugal or orange; and on this account is perhaps the most valuable plant cultivated for the use of the perfumer. The fragrance of plants is almost always due to a volatile oil contained in small vessels in the petals of the flowers and in the leaves, and is extracted by distillation with water or by absorption with grease or oil. By means of incisions in the tree we procure many gums, such as benzoin and olibanum, and the balsams, which are not only valuable to the perfumer, but form an ingredient in many medicinal prepara- tions. In extracting the odors of plants and flowers, four processes are now employed, namely, absorption, expression, maceration, and distillation. This latter mode, though thought by many to be the only method employed, is in reality the least so, for we distil plants, barks, and woods, but very few flowers. In distilling flowers, plants, etc., they are now put into a sort of wire basket or perforated kettle sus- pended in the still, allowing the steam to pass through the material and carry with it the odor of the plant and be condensed with it in the receiver or worm, when the fragrant molecules are collected either on the surface of the water or at the bottom, as they may be lighter or heavier. By this simple improve- ment all fear of burning the material is avoided. This water, which is often distilled several times with FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. 37 fresh material, is sometimes of value, as is the case with rose and orange-flower waters. The process of expression to obtain essences or oils is confined to those of the citron family, as the lemon, orange, bergamot, etc., and has heretofore been performed in a very primitive manner, generally by grating the rind and collecting the product with a sponge. But, at the present time, improved machi- nery for the purpose is made, which produces a greater quantity of purer essence. These rinds may be distilled, but the result is not of so pleasant an odor. Maceration and absorption, which are the most interesting processes, are both founded upon the affinity the odorous molecules have for fats and oils, being readily absorbed by them when brought in contact. The finest flowers yield their aroma to greases, called pomades, and to oils, which is after- wards extracted by alcohol, which latter material, if placed directly with the flowers, would not extract it from them. There are two modes adopted for extracting these odors, and making the scented pomades and oils. Maceration is used for flowers of strong odor, such as the rose, orange flower, cassie, jonquil, and violet, and is conducted in this manner: A certain quantity of grease is put in a pan, which is placed in a larger one filled with water in which is dissolved a portion of salt, called a marine bath, and, when liquefied, a certain quantity of flowers are thrown in and left to digest for a stated number of hours, being frequently stirred and the temperature regulated, after which the contents are taken out and passed through horse- hair bags ; which process is repeated until the fatty body is sufficiently impregnated with the fragrance 38 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. of the flowers. Oil is treated in just the same manner, but naturally requires less heat than the more solid grease. By absorption, called in France enfleurage, is meant the contact of the flowers with the grease and oil, but without heat, which would injure the delicate odor of such flowers as the jasmin, tuberose, etc. To con- duct this process a number of squares of glass framed with wood are provided, the glass being removable ; the grease is spread upon the glass in a thin layer in which ridges are cut, and covered with fresh flowers and placed one frame upon another ; the next day these flowers are removed, and fresh ones substi- tuted until sufficient odor is absorbed. The operation continues as long as the flowers are in bloom. When the grease has acquired a sufficiently strong odor, it is scraped off the glass, melted with a gentle heat, and strained. Oil is treated in the same manner, except that instead of the glass the frames have a wire bottom, on which are laid thick cotton cloths saturated with olive or benne oil, which, when they are sufficiently impregnated with odor, are submitted to heavy pressure to extract the perfumed oil. These frames are so constructed as to fit closely upon each other, and covered so as to exclude the air and insects. Many new modes of enfleurage have lately been devised, having in view the saving of labor and time, which, though ingenious, have not yet received any practical application. M. Millan, a French chemist, has invented a means of extracting the aroma of flowers, in the form of a concrete substance, but it is exceedingly costly, too much so to be used with economy ; it has, however, served to interest us and FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. 39 show the imponderability of odorous molecules, for, although at first sight it appears as a solid principle of scent, yet if treated several times with alcohol it loses its perfume, but is found not to have lost an atom of weight. The three towns, Grasse, Cannes, and Nice, all in the south of France, are the places where the processes of maceration and absorption are princi- pally carried on. The latter is the most admirably situated for procuring the flowers for the purpose; and its violets are superior to any others. By the following statistics it will be seen what is the quan- tity of flowers consumed in this locality; the quanti- ties given are approximate, as are also their values : Orange flowers, 3,000,000 Ibs. . . Value about $300,000. Rose Jasmine Violet Cassie Tuberose 1,000,000 250,000 100,000 150,000 50,000 75,000. 50,00.0. 35,000. 50,000. 25,000. From this annual product are manufactured one million pounds of scented oils and greases, besides quantities of orange-flower and rose water, and about a thousand pounds of oil of neroli. There are also distilled in these towns, oils of lavender, rosemary, thyme, geranium, etc. To those who have looked upon flowers as simply ornamental, these figures may give some idea of their commercial importance. The famous otto or attar of rose is not made in these countries, but from Turkey and India is pro- cured nearly all used in commerce. Very extensive rose farms exist in Adrianople (Turkey in Europe), and at Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Ghazipoor in India, where this perfume, so valuable to the per- 40 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. fumer, is extensively made by means of distillation of the fresh leaves in copper stills, and repeating with fresh leaves a number of times, collecting the distillate in cool receivers; 500 pounds of leaves yielding about an ounce of the otto. Perfumes may be divided into classes. Linnaeus, the most learned of modern botanists, divided them into seven ; three of which were pleasant odors, viz., the aromatic, the fragrant, and the ambrosial ; but the division is very arbitrary, as the theories differ with every writer. For, I think, only an expert in the art of perfumery is properly able to give a just classifi- cation of the odors used in his business, as he might classify the geranium and sweetbrier with the rose, lilies with jasmine, jonquil with tuberose or hyacinth, mignonette and cassie with violet, etc. etc. To enumerate all the odors that could be classified, would occupy too much space. Paris may be called the head-quarters of the per- fumery manufacture, which branch of the art is an important item of the trade of that city ; and a large amount of capital is invested in it. These manu- factures consist of scents for the handkerchief, toilet soaps, and innumerable cosmetics, and are exported to all parts of the world. London may be ranked next in importance as a centre of the art ; and many of their manufactures are of a superior class, espe- cially in the item of scented soaps, which are largely exported to all countries. There are many manufac- turers of perfumery in Germany, Spain, Italy, Russia, and the United States ; but the industry has never reached the importance of those of the two cities named. In this country we are accused of making our business in this line by copying and counterfeiting the articles FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. 41 of celebrity of Paris and London, in which accusation I am afraid there is too much truth ; but there have been and still exist a number of legitimate manufac- turers who do not imitate the goods of others, but are content to stand on their own merits, and their manufactures rival the best products of Paris and London. To Paris, however, we must yield the palm of being the great centre of the art, for it is said to have a hundred and fifty houses engaged in the business, employing, directly and indirectly, five thousand men and women, and a capital estimated at fifty millions of francs, with a product valued at seventy millions of francs, and an export of forty millions, which is sent principally to their neighbors in Europe, and to the United States and South America. London, the next in importance in the trade, exports about one hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling of its products, principally to India, China, and Australia; but the products of its manufacture can be found in nearly all parts of the civilized world or wherever her commerce extends. Eau de Cologne is perhaps next to Hungary water the most ancient of spirituous perfumes, and is still in vogue throughout the civilized world. It was invented about the middle of the last century, and is supposed to be best made at the place of its birth, the city of Cologne. It can, however, be made anywhere, as its ingredients are mostly extracted from the leaves, flowers, and fruits of the citron species, which are procured from the south of France, Sicily, and Italy, blended together in certain proportions. 42 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Perfumes or extracts and bouquets for the hand- kerchief are made in various ways, principally by infusing the scented pomades or oils obtained by the processes already described in alcohol, to which they yield their odors, and the product is the pure aroma of the flowers. As, however, the number of flowers cultivated for their odors is few, the skilled perfumer can imitate nearly all others by a judicious combination of the six or seven he possesses, and in this consists an important branch of the perfumer's art, and may truly be called artistic, for it is done by studying the affinities, and blending the scents as a painter does the shades of color he uses. Toilet soaps, which are so important a branch of the perfumer's art, are made in great quantities in Paris, London, and the United States, and in fact more or less in many other countries. But to Eng- land must be given the first place for the quality of its soaps, as there they take especial care to have the materials pure and devote a great deal of labor to their proper manipulation. All soaps are improved the more they are worked, and to perfect a soap for toilet use, it should be frequently melted and ground in a mill, and the oftener this is done the better is the product. French soaps may be said to rank next, and are of a more costly character, as the finest are made of the flower pomades and oils, which in other countries is seldom done. German soaps are seldom of good quality, for it is customary there to use a great deal of cocoa-nut oil in their manufacture, which gives them a fetid odor, which no amount of perfume effectually disguises. They are also very deceptive, FLOWERS, ETC., FOR PERFUMES. 43 as they have the property of retaining more alkali and water than other soaps, which causes them to melt away in a very short time when in use. The United States is constantly gaining the proper knowledge of the art of making fine toilet soaps, and some of our products will compete favorably with any made abroad. We must, however, admit that we have been sorely imposed upon by tallow chan- dlers and others mixing bone-fat and candle grease with an impure alkali, perfumed with cheap essential oils and called toilet soap, while it is not even fit for use in the laundry. Cosmetics, pomatums, washes, dentifrices, and the many requisites of the toilet are made in large quan- tities, but are so numerous that to describe them at length or descant on their respective merits would alone fill our volume. Preparations for the hair are also very numerous, and vary according to the taste or necessity of the consumer ; for while one may need an oil, another may require a pomade, whilst some should use a wash or lotion. So in the selection of a perfume it is impossible to say which is best, for it is a matter of taste, and you might as well dictate what others may eat or drink as to advise them as to the choice of a perfume. But as this choice indicates in some degree the taste and refinement of the user, so the vulgar will surely betray themselves by the choice of a common perfume. The volatilization of perfumes by passing a current of steam through a concentrated essence, and by that means spreading it rapidly through the atmosphere of the apartment, promises to be of great utility, as a theatre or drawing-room may by this means be per- 44 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. fumed in a few minutes, and it tends to purify the air. This process could be usefully employed in hospitals and other public institutions. Glycerine, an article of comparatively recent dis- covery^ is one of the most useful articles ever dis- covered for the purposes of the toilet, and its merits are now being fully recognized. And perfumers have not failed to avail themselves of its useful emollient properties, and to combine it with soaps and other cosmetics with the happiest results. A word of caution may here be said of the many lotions for the complexion which are often carelessly prepared by ignorant persons who have no proper ideas as to the deleterious substances found in the numerous formula3, for eruptions of the skin, which latter are usually the effects of diseases or constitu- tional conditions, and in their treatment should have a skilled physician. Paii?ts for the face should also be carefully selected, as unprincipled quacks offer many pernicious articles that they laud to the skies as beautifying and reju- venating. Let them be avoided as far as possible. Rouge when made of carmine or safflower is inocuous, and white paint, when made of a proper material, is harmless. The theatrical profession require the use of these cosmetics. To them we advise the utmost care ; to all others we would say, " Nature paiuts the best color." MATERIALS USED IX PERFUMERY. 45 CHAPTER IV. MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. briefly sketched the history of perfumes, both ancient and modern, we will now proceed to the more practical part of our treatise by describing the principal materials used in the perfumer's art. These materials are drawn from all parts of the world, from the frozen regions of the pole, the milder regions of the temperate zone, to the burning sands of Arabia. To give every article used by the modern profes- sion would require a very large space in our volume. Yet in writing a practical work we must endeavor to make the perfumer acquainted with the most im- portant ingredients used in his art, and which are indispensable to it. Allspice or pimento. Eugenia pimenta. The essen- tial oil of this useful spice is procured by distillation from the unripe fruit, and is of very pleasant odor, and can be usefully employed for scenting toilet soaps in combination with other perfumes. Its odor resem- bles cloves, and it is a native of the West Indies and South America. Almonds. Amygdalus amara.. The bitter almond is a native of Egypt, and is grown in Algeria and Italy for its fruit, the kernels of which form a very useful material for the perfumer. The oil expressed from the kernels is very bland, and enters into many cosmetics. The essential oil distilled from the cake or residuum is much used in essences, soaps, creams, etc. 46 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Ambergris. Secretion of the Physeter macrocepha- lus or sperm whale. This peculiar substance is found floating on the sea on the coasts of China, Japan, Greenland, and other places, and was long used before its source was determined, and was thought to be of the nature of yellow amber (a fossil), hence its name (amber-gris) gray amber. It is the result of a diseased state of the animal Ambergris is not of an agreeable odor in itself, but in combination with other perfumes it imparts a fragrance and a permanence very remarkable. Aniseed. Pimpinella anisum. The seed pod, from which the essential oil is procured by distillation, has a very strong and pleasant odor which can be used for toilet soaps, etc., but it is chiefly used in flavoring liquors, cordials, etc. Star aniseed. Illicium anisatum. The fruit of an evergreen tree growing in China and Tartary, the essential oil of which is distilled from the fruit, which is formed like a star, and is like the other aniseed but with a more pleasant flavor, and is used for the same purposes. Ambrette, see Musk-seed. Balm. Lemon ; Milissa officinalis. It is a fragrant oil obtained by distilling the plant ; it is frequently mentioned in formula, but is at present old, and sel- dom used, and yet we think it might be, should it be cultivated in sufficient quantities to be made economi- cally, which at present is not the case. Balsam of Peru. Myroxylon Peruiferus. Is a native of the western part of South America, and is procured from incisions made in the tree, or by boil- ing the leaves and branches in water. It has a strong MATERIALS USED IN" PERFUMERY. 47 vanilla-like odor, and is much employed in the form of tincture mixed with other perfumes. Balsam of Tolu. Toluiferum balsamum. Is also a native of South America, and is procured in the same manner as the preceding one, and its uses are the same, but its odor is more pleasant. It has the consistency of resin, or when warm of treacle, is very soluble in alcohol, and, like all other balsams, gives permanency to extracts and bouquets. Bay. Laurus nobilis. An evergreen tree, a native of the East, but growing in Southern Europe and in the West Indies, where a pleasant perfume is made of the leaves by distillation with rum and with water. They yield an essential oil, which is used to make the rum or to perfume soap, etc. Bergamot. Citrus bergomia. Growing in the south of France, Calabria, and Sicily, where the essential oil is expressed from the rind of the fruit, and has a well-known pleasant odor. "When fresh it has a green color; air and light soon deteriorate its quality. It should be kept in well-stoppered bottles in a cool dark place. This advice may apply to nearly all perfumes and essential oils except rose, which does not spoil. Bergamot is seldom used alone, but, com- bined with other essences, adds to their richness, especially to all spice oils. Bigarrade. Citrus bigarradia. The Seville orange is cultivated for its oil, which is distilled from the flowers. This neroli is much known and used as a prominent ingredient in eau de Cologne, indeed an indispensable one. It can also be used in bouquets. Benzoin. Styrax benzoin. Gum benzoin is a native of Siam and Singapore. It exudes from wounds made in the tree, and soon hardens into a compact 48 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. mass, has a perfume resembling vanilla, which is use- fully and largely employed for tinctures, essences, bouquets, pomades, and toilet powders. Caraway. Car urn carui. Caraway seed grows in all parts of Northern Europe, and yields a very useful essential oil, which is much used for perfuming soap, in combination with lavender, cloves, or bergamot. The ground seed are valuable for sachet powders. Cardamom. Aplinia cardamomum. Is a native of the East Indies, growing wild in hilly countries. The seeds have a very pleasant aromatic flavor which can be utilized for various purposes where a spicy flavor is desired. Cascarilla. Croton cascarilla. This shrub grows wild in various parts of the West Indies and Mexico, and the bark yields a pleasant musky odor, espe- cially when burned. Hence it is a useful ingre- dient in making fumigating pastils or for perfuming tobacco. Cassia. Lauras cassia. From China and the East Indies we receive this valuable spice, from the bark of which is distilled a very strong essential oil resem- bling cinnamon, but is not so pleasant. It is used chiefly in toilet soaps, and in small quantities is blended with other perfumes, is useful in some es- sences, and is also used to flavor liquors and cordials. Cassie. Acacia Farnesiana. Is grown in France and Italy for the odor of its flowers, which have a very valuable perfume, resembling violets but stronger, which is imparted to pomades or oils by the process of maceration described in our last chap- ter. The fragrance is used in combination with others in numerous essences or extracts for the hand- kerchief. MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 49 Cedar. Juni perns Virginiana. An evergreen tree found in Syria and the United States, yields an essential oil which is quite pleasant, but not ranch used. The ground wood is used for sachet powders, and the tincture in some dentifrices. Cedrat. Citras cedrata. This plant is cultivated in the south of France and in Italy for its fruit, whose rind yields, by expression, a very fine oil, used extensively in eau de Cologne. Its odor resembles a mixture of lemon and bergamot. Citronella. Andropogon citratum. A native grass found in Ceylon, yielding a very strong essential oil, which is procured by distillation, and is consumed in quantities for perfuming common toilet soaps, but is not much liked for anything else. . Civet. Secretion of the vivera civetta. The civet cat is found in India and Africa, and yields this well-known odor in a glandular secretion. It is very repulsive in appearance and smell when used alone, but when combined with other scents gives them a more flowery fragrance than any other substance known ; it resembles musk, but in some bouquets is more useful. Cloves. Caryophillus aromaticus. Zanzibar fur- nishes to commerce the larger portion of this use- ful spice. The essential oil abounds in the whole plant, but the unexpanded flower bud is the clove of commerce. The oil is distilled in different countries, and is a very useful ingredient in a number of soaps, essences, pomades, and as a flavoring for cordials, etc. Coriander. Coriandrum sativum. Is a native of Italy, and yields an essential oil in small quantities, very useful for many purposes, particularly to mouth pastils and tooth elixirs. 4 50 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Dill. Anethum graveolens. Is grown in England, and is there distilled as much for medicine as for its perfume, which is little known here. Dill- water is used by some as a cosmetic. The oil can be usefully combined with other odors to make a variety. Eglantine or Sweeibrier. This well-known plant grows a very fragrant leaf, but does not yield its odor readily by the usual processes, and it is conse- quently imitated by the perfumer. Elder. Sambucus nigra. Grows in Europe and the United States. The odor of the flowers, which is fragrant but rather heavy, can be extracted by distillation. Elder-flower water is thought by many to be a great cure-all, but as a perfume it is seldom used. Fennel. Anethum foeniculum. Cultivated in southern Europe for medicinal purposes and for its oil, which is procured from the seeds, and used in toilet soaps, but seldom enters into anything else. Flag. Acorus calamus. The sweet flag yields a pleasant-smelling oil from its rizome. Used as a flavoring for some kinds of liquors and tobacco, but not often in perfumery. Geranium. Pelargonium odoratissamum. The rose-leaf geranium, whose oil is procured by distilla- tion, has a favorite rosy smell, and is largely culti- vated in France. It is used to adulterate otto of rose, and also for many different forms of perfumery, and is generally much admired. Ginger Grass. Andropogon nardus. Cultivated in the Moluccas, and often called geranium, but though similar in odor is not so pleasant. It enters into the same substances as the rose-leaf geranium, but in cheaper articles. MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 51 Heliotrope. Heliotrope grandiflorum. Is a native of Peru, though not cultivated for its perfume, which is very exquisite, and which the perfumer has to imi- tate with other essences, but which is not very diffi- cult to do, as the odor resembles a blending of rose and vanilla. Honeysuckle or Woodbine. The flowers of this well-known vine have a very strong and pleasant jasmine-like odor, that might be extracted by enfleu- rage ; but it is not, and therefore the perfumer makes an imitation, the formula of which is given under the proper heading. Hovenia. Hovenia unequalis. Is a beautiful flowery shrub, a native of Japan, but the odor is not remarkably pleasant, and the perfumer has recourse to his art in its imitation. The odor resembles a mixture of rose, lemon, neroli, and cloves in due proportion. Iris. See Orris. Jasmine. Jasminum odoratissimum. Largely cultivated in the south of France, in Italy, Algeria, and Tunis, and is one of the most useful of plants for the perfumer. The odor of the flower is extracted by absorption with oil or pomade, from which the fragrance is procured by infusion with alcohol as before described, and enters into various bouquets. Jonquil. Narcissus jonquila. Is also cultivated in France for its flowers, from which the odor is obtained by enfleurage, but, not being abundant, it is generally imitated, and quite successfully. (See Formulas.) Laurel. Laurus cerasus. Grows in France, Italy, and the United States, and its fragrance is extracted from the leaves by distillation to procure laurel water. 52 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. It is but seldom used, as its fragrance resembles bitter almonds, but is not so pleasant. Lavender. Lavandula vera. Extensively grown in France and England for its oil, which is distilled from the plant when in bloom. The English oil is very much more pleasant than the French, and of many times its value. At Mitcham, Surrey, England, where it is cultivated on an extensive scale, the best oil is obtained. There is a still greater quantity made in France and Italy, but not so good or so valuable. Lavender water, or essence, has had a great reputa- tion, and deservedly so, as its odor is very refreshing. The oil enters into many formulas, and is particularly well adapted for soaps. The French also distil an oil from the lavandula spica, spike lavender, or oil of spike. Its odor is not so fine, and it is used for soaps only. Lemon. Citrus medica. Calabria, Genoa, Spain, and Sicily all cultivate this useful fruit for commerce. The rind contains the essence, which is procured by expression, and forms a very important article of commerce, as it is used for so many purposes, as a flavoring as well as a perfume. Owing to its rapid absorption of oxygen it should be kept in strong well stoppered bottles and in a dark place. It is an im- portant ingredient in eau de Cologne and some other preparations. Lemon Grass. Andropogon schoenanthus. To Ceylon, where the grass is distilled for its oil, we are indebted for this product. It grows, also, in many parts of India. The oil has a very strong odor resem- bling verbena, for which it is generally substituted, and it is also used for perfuming soaps and pomades. MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 53 Lilac. Syringa vulgaris. Grows abundantly in the United States, England, and elsewhere. Its flowers have a very pleasant odor, which could be extracted by maceration but is seldom done, and is universally imitated. (See Formulas.) Lily. Convallaria majalis. The lily of the valley is a native of Europe, but grows in all temperate cli- mates. Its odor could be extracted by maceration but is not, so the perfumer has to resort to an imita- tion. (See Formulas.) Limette. Citrus limetta. Grown principally in Sicily and the south of France for its fruit, whose rind yields a very fine oil similar to the lemon, though pleasanter. It is an ingredient in good Cologne water and some essences, and its odor is particularly refreshing. Mace. Myristica moschata. Is the enveloping rind of the nutmeg, which grows in Java and Penang. The concrete oil is extracted by expression from the refuse nutmegs and mace, and is used in pomade and soaps. There is also a limpid oil procured by dis- tillation, and used in combination to make variety by its spicy odor. The ground mace is also used in sachet powders. Magnolia. Magnolia glauca. Is a native of our own country. Its flowers are exceedingly fragrant, but as it cannot be procured, a very good imitation is made with the materials we have. (See Formulas.) Marjoram. Origanum majorana. Sweet mar- joram is found in the United States, England, and France ; which latter country cultivates it for its oil, which is distilled from the herb and used only for toilet soaps. Meadoiv Sweet. Spirese ulmaria. This very sweet smelling herb is found in England and elsewhere, but 54 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. is not cultivated in sufficient quantities for the per- fumer's use, and he therefore makes an imitation. Melissa. See Balm. Mignonette. Reseda luteola. The flowers of this favorite plant are cultivated in France, and submitted to the process of absorption with grease or oil, from which the odor is extracted by means of alcohol. Mirbane. Nitro-benzole. An artificial oil of bitter almonds is made chemically with rectified benzole and nitric acid in an apparatus consisting of a large glass tube in the form of a coil, divided in the upper end into two tubes terminating in small funnels. The acid flows slowly in one funnel, while the benzole flows in the other. The two substances meeting at the point of union combine with the evolution of heat, and the product being cooled as it flows down the worm is col- lected at the lower end and washed in a dilute solution of carbonate of soda. When properly made it has a strong odor like bitter almonds, but is principally used in soaps. Mint. Mentha piperita ; Mentha viridis. These well-known essences are made in Europe and the United States, the former being much used as a flavor- ing for candies and cord als, while the latter is merely used in soaps in combination with other oils. It also enters into one or two tooth washes. Both peppermint and spearmint may be added to many compounds. Myrtle. Myrtus communis. The south of France is the only place where the plant is grown for its perfume, which is procured by distillation to make myrtle water, which enters into a popular perfume on the continent known as eau d'Ange. Myrrh. Balsamodendron myrrha. This gum resin, grown in Arabia and India, from ancient times to MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 55 the present day, is now used by the perfumers only in tooth washes and dentifrices, where it is very useful. Music. Moschus moschata. This very useful and indispensable secretion of the musk deer comes to us from Thibet and China, and is found in a small pod attached to the belly of the male deer. The best quality is received from Tonquin. Musk is an unct- uous substance, of reddish-brown color which soon turns black by exposure, of a very powerful odor, and although generally disliked in its pure state, mixed with other odors it is very much admired by most people, and often by those who declare that they do not like musk. To the perfumer musk is invaluable, and enters into a great many preparations, as es- sences, powders, pastils, soaps, etc. etc. Musk Seed. Hibiscus abelmoschus. Ambrette, as it is generally called, comes to us from the West Indies, and is in small kidney-shaped seeds of a gray- ish-brown color, with an odor similar to musk and ambergris. In the form of a tincture it combines usefully in making low-priced essences. Narcissus. Narcissus odorata. This favorite flower, found in nearly all climates, is for its fra- grance cultivated to some extent in Algeria. Its delicate lily-like odor is extracted by absorption with pomade, but, as it is rare and expensive, the perfumer makes an imitation. Neroli, Bigarade ; Citrus bigaradia. Neroli, Por- tugal ; Citrus aurantium. Orange-flowers are grown in the south of France, in Italy, Sicily, and Calabria, on an extensive scale, and the oil extracted by distil- lation is sent to all countries. The citrus bigaradia or bitter orange is the most prized, the essential oil of its flowers having the finest odor. The citrus 56 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. au rant him or edible orange yields a good odor, but it is not so delicate. These odors are generally much admired, and are necessary in the manufacture of good eau de Cologne. There are also made from the same trees two other oils, one from the leaves called petit-grain, and one from the rind of the fruit called Portugal or orange. The orange-flowers when treated by maceration with oil or pomade yield with alcohol a finer flavored perfume, and quite distinct from the nerolis. Nutmeg. !N"ux moschata. The Indian Archipelago furnishes most of the nutmegs of commerce, which are used throughout the world as a flavoring or as a condiment. The essential oil by distillation is used in combination in many articles when a spicy odor or flavor is desired. The nuts ground into coarse powder can also be used in sachet powders. Orange. Citrus aurentium. From Calabria and Sicily we receive most of the oil of orange, which is expressed from the rind of the fruit, and is employed for many perfumes. Like all of the oils from the citrus family, it absorbs oxygen very rapidly when exposed, and should be kept well stopped and in the dark. In pomade it has the same tendency, and does not suit so well as some other perfumes. Olibanum. Bos well ia serrata. A gum resin found in Arabia and India, and used from the earliest times as incense, and called frankincense. The Catholic and Greek churches still burn it as incense, while the perfumer uses it in fumigating pastils and some- times in the form of tincture. Oms or Iris. Iris Florentina. This rhizoma is a native of Italy and grows in other countries. The odor of the root is used in the form of a tincture in MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 57 many essences and bouquets, and powdered it is very useful in sachet-powders and dentifrices. Palm Oil. Elais Guiniensis. The palm that yields this useful oil grows principally in Africa, whence it is received. It is a fatty oil obtained by expression, and when fresh has a pleasant violet-like odor, but is not available for perfume. It is added to pomades to give a yellow color; but its principal use is to make palm soap, which is justly popular, and which retains the odor of the oil. Patclwuly. Plectranthus crassifolius. A sage- like plant growing in China and India having a peculiar strong odor much admired by many. The essential oil is distilled from the plant, aud is much used by perfumers in making an extract for the hand- kerchief with the addition of a little rose to soften it. It also enters into some other bouquets and essences. Petit-grain. Bigarade; Petit-grain. Portugal. This perfume has been partially described under the head of neroli, and is obtained from the leaves of the same plants, and is employed in various ways, but principally in making eau de Cologne and bouquets, soaps, pomades, etc. Pea, Sweet. Pois du senteur. The flowers of this well-known garden annual have a pleasant perfume", but as it is not cultivated for its odor the perfumer makes a compound which he calls by that name. Pink. Dianthus caryophillus. Clove pink has a very popular odor, though its cultivation is so limited that the perfumer could not get together enough of them to make a pint of essence, so from his numerous ingredients he makes a delightful imitation. To detect the innocent fraud would puzzle the oldest connoisseur. 58 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Rhodium. Convolvulus scoparius. Called rose wood because it yields an oil somewhat resembling otto of rose, and which was formerly used to adul- terate that valuable article. The wood is imported from South America, and is used principally in sachet powders. Rose. Rosa centifolia. This may truly be called the queen of flowers, as it is universally admired for its beauty as well as its fragrance, and, though grow- ing nearly all over the world, is chiefly cultivated for commercial uses in Turkey, India, and France. In France pomades and oils are scented with it for the per- fumer's use, and in India and Turkey it is grown for the manufacture of the otto of rose, which is obtained by distilling the leaves with water, and requires about 600 pounds to make a single ounce of the oil. When pure it is exceeding pleasant, and is also invaluable to the perfumer for a great many purposes, for there are few odors with which it will not harmoniously combine. Yet for the finer extracts for the handker- chief the alcoholate from the pomade gives a finer odor, and one that it is impossible to dispense with, for more than half his numerous extracts and bou- quets. The dried leaves also enter into powders, pastils, and sachets. Rosmary. Rosmarinus officinalis. This useful plant is cultivated in the south of Europe for its oil, which is distilled from the flowers and leaves, and comes to us of several qualities, the best being from the flowers alone. In eau de Cologne it is almost in- dispensable, for it blends so well with the odors of the citrus species, and it is equally useful in toilet soaps. Sage. Sal via officinalis. This plant was formerly much employed in perfumery, but at the present time MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 59 its oil is sometimes used in soaps, and the dried leaves enter into some sachet powders, but being used as a condiment it is considered common. Santal. Santalum citrinum. A tree well known in China, India, and Australia. Its wood is burned in incense in the former countries, and its consump- tion for that purpose is very great. The oil distilled from the wood is valuable in perfumery in many com- pounds, and has a lasting property available to the perfumer in many ways. Serpolet. T hymns serphilium. Wild thy me, whose odor is quite as pleasant as the cultivated herb, is distilled in the south of France, and enters with advantage into perfumes for soaps. Sassafras. Lauras sassafras. A native of North America, having a very pleasant essential oil obtained from the bark of the root ; it is exported largely to Europe, and is used extensively to perfume cheap soaps and to flavor various medicinal preparations. Storax. Styrax officinalis. This balsam is ob- tained in Asiatic Turkey, by incisions in the trunk of the tree ; it is of several kinds and qualities, the best being in yellowish-white tears mixed with a reddish-brown substance. This is scarce, and can be but seldom obtained. The most common form of storax is a semi-fluid black-and-gray substance, having an odor somewhat like vanilla. Soluble in alcohol, in which form it is sometimes employed in bouquets. Thyme. Thymus vulgaris. This herb belongs to a large family, all having a more or less fragrant odor. This species is cultivated in France and Ger- many for its oil, which is used combined with other 60 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. perfumes to scent soaps, etc. The herb can also be usefully employed in sachet powders. Tonquin. Dipterix odorata. From Para and Angustura, in South America, we receive this valu- able bean, which contains a volatile oil, a fatty oil, and benzoic acid. In the form of tincture with alcohol they can be used in bouquets and essences ; in powder they are useful in sachets, giving some- what the odor of new-mown hay. They are largely used to perfume segars and tobacco. Tola. See Balsam of Tolu. Tuberose. Polianthus tuberosa. This exquisite flower is extensively cultivated in the south of France and Italy for the use of perfumers all over the world. Its odor is obtained by enfleurage with grease and oils, and its alcoholate is in constant use in numerous bouquets, and always gives satisfaction when judi- ciously used. Vanilla. Vanilla planifolia. To Mexico we are indebted for this very valuable drug, which has a not less favorable fragrance in perfumery than valuable flavor in confectionery, and for both purposes it is largely consumed. The true vanilla is the bean of a handsome vine, and, made into a tincture, it enters into a great number of fine extracts and bouquets, and also in powder into sachets. Verbena. Aloysia citriodora. The lemon verbena is a native of Spain, where alone it is cultivated for commerce. The volatile oil is distilled from the leaves, and is generally admired. Perfumers often use the lemon-grass oil for verbena extract, but it has to be modified with other odors to make the imitation equally delicate. It is principally used in handkerchief bouquets. MATERIALS USED IN PERFUMERY. 61 Violet. Viola odorata. There are violet farms near Nice and Florence, where this delicate flower is submitted to the process of enfleurage with pomade or oil, from which the perfumer extracts the odor with fine alcohol ; and, when carefully made, it is of exquisite and delicate fragrance. This is the most costly of all flower perfumes, for the plant is small and the flowers few, and it requires a great deal of space and labor in its cultivation, and also because it is but a short time in bloom. The extract is fre- quently imitated with cassie, orris, etc. etc. Vitivert. Anatherum muricatum. Viti vert or kus- kus is the rhizoma of an Indian grass, which is made into mats and blinds, called tatty, and when sprinkled with water in that hot climate emits a fragrance which is very agreeable. Its essential oil can be obtained by distillation, but it yields but a small quantity. In the form of tincture, it enters into some essences ; in powder, into sachet powders. Wintergreen. Gaultheria procumbens. The par- tridge berry, a small evergreen plant, native to the United States and Canada, yields a pleasant and powerful volatile oil by distillation; but more used to flavor medicines than as a perfume, though in combination it may be used in soap. Ylang Ylang. Unona odoratissima. Called the flower of flowers, the blossoms of a very handsome tree growing in India and China, and but lately brought to public notice ; but it has proved a great favorite. The oil from the flower is obtained by distillation, and has an odor somewhat resembling the jasmine. Thus far it has been quite costly, but as the demand increases so will its production, which will, no doubt, lead to a reduction in its price. 62 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED- ARTS. I have here given the perfumer a sketch of the principal ingredients for perfumery, used in his art ; but there are very many more, general!} 7 , however, such substances as are of secondary importance, or such as are in common use or can be found at any drug store, and to describe which would be unneces- sary. What I have described are generally used and easily procured, and are, as I believe, sufficient for his purposes ; but if, in my formulas, I should speak of anything not here described, and with which he is not familiar, he can, by writing to any large wholesale druggist in Philadelphia or New York, easily obtain it or information regarding it. CHAPTER Y. THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. ALTHOUGH there are many preparations of a chemi- cal nature which require some degree of knowledge of that science, I shall endeavor to avoid the technical terms used by chemists, so that it may be possible for my recipes to be prepared by others as well as by those familiar with chemistry. When treating of a chemical combination it may be necessary to use the chemical term, but if possible I shall give the common name. The books on perfumery, with which I have met, generally adhere to many old and obsolete forms, and load their recipes with substances at once difficult to procure and unnecessary. I shall try to give such recipes only that there shall be no such difficulty, and THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. 63 shall as much as possible simplify all the formulas and endeavor to give such articles only as are obtain- able, and are either the best or the most simple and economical. In preparing a laboratory for his use the perfumer should have several rooms, as it is essential that some branches should be separate from others. One is required for the manufacture and keeping of various tinctures, essences, spirits, waters, etc., in their various bottles and in systematic order ; one or two for stills, water-baths, displacers, receivers, macera- tors, filters, etc., in fact for all the necessary para- phernalia of his art; as well as a room or a closet, cool and dark, as a store-room for essential oils and other substances which are injured by too warm a temper- ature, such as his finer pomades, etc. etc. If he makes toilet soaps he needs the aid of steam, which, in the present state of the art, is almost indis- pensable, as without it he can seldom properly make many articles which he will need. Soaps should have appropriated to them one or more rooms, light, airy, and free from dampness. Face, sachet, and rouge powders also require a room in which they can be pre- pared separately, for their own sakes as well as on account of the dust they convey to other goods, and if there is a store it should be neat and cleanly, so that the goods may be. stored, and the nicer work of finishing completed by the more delicate hands of females. It may be thought quite unnecessary to give advice as to a proper system in the arrangement of the labo- ratory a certain place for his tinctures, infusions, extracts, essential oils, etc., those most handy that are the oftenest needed ; in fact a place for every- 64 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. thing and everything in its place. This advice may seem superfluous, yet a perfect system of the kind facilitates all operations of this nature; for this is not a trade in which the necessary tools are found ready to his hand, but an art where care and cleanliness are indispensable. While giving advice to the perfumer, and partic- ularly to the novice, I must not conclude without a caution to him to avoid all materials that are improper or dangerous to use ; to guard all his goods against any ingredients that will injure in any manner the person who uses them. The old books of recipes are filled with formulas that if not silly are pernicious and do much more harm than good. If I give the usual form of preparations for an article of which I do not approve, I shall give my opinion of its merits or demerits with the proper caution in making and using it. In order properly to classify the different articles the perfumer makes, I shall adopt a system and give the recipes for tinctures, then for extracts or alcoholates, waters, oils, vinegars, pomades, pow- ders, rouges, pastes, emulsions, hair dyes, etc. INSTRUMENTS FOR DISTILLATION. Distillation is the most important and interesting branch of the perfumer's art, as, by its assistance, the different essences, spirituous scents, essential oils, fragrant waters, eau de Cologne, and the vinegars are made. The chief utensil is the alembic or still, a vessel of tin or tinned copper, and sometimes of glass. Among the many arts in which alembics are used, no one more frequently requires those of glass than that of the perfumer. This is owing to the volatility of much of the material to be distilled, and the conse- quent care and nicety requisite in the operation. THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. 65 The alembic (Fig. 1) consists of three distinct and separate parts the lody, the head, and the cooler. A exhibits the first, which is nothing more than a kettle in the shape of an inverted truncated cone. It is walled up in brick and mortar, the flange B B rest- ing on the furnace, and serving to hold the body firmly in its bed. It is generally of equal breadth and depth, with a bottom inwardly convex, so as to give greater heating surface, and a neck C C converging towards its opening. On this neck are placed a socket Z>, and the two handles E E. The capital or head (Fig. 2) of the still is made of tinned copper for larger vessels, and of tin or pewter for smaller apparatus. It is cylindrical, terminating in a spherical hood or cup. F G H Us the cylindrical part, with a neck a a affixed beneath, and so made as to fit nicely into the opening C C of the still (Fig. 1). The extreme top is soldered at & &, a little below the superior edge of the cylinder. In the centre of this head is a socket 5 66 PERFUMERY AOT) KINDRED ARTS. .7T, and in the side is soldered a slightly conical pipe L Jj, called the Iteak of the alembic. The materials for distillation are put into the body, the head placed on, nicely adjusted and well luted, and the fire kindled in the furnace. By the action of the heat, the volatile parts are disengaged in vapor, and collect in the capital, from whence they pass through the beak into the cooler or third piece, where they are refrigerated and condensed hence its name. This refrigerator is of various forms sometimes a tube extended to some length ; then, again, it is spiral, and takes the title of worm ; but this shape renders its cleansing difficult. Here, below, is a con- densing apparatus, economical, convenient, and simple. Fig. 3. It consists of three cylindrical tubes, A B CD EF, each three feet long, and soldered one to the other, so as to form a continued connection. The first is coni- cal at A, for the reception of the beak of the still, together with which it is luted : at B it is soldered to the end of the second tube Z>, forming a nozzle. These two joined together are soldered to a cylin- drical copper ferule Gr, having a screw at its extremity, and covered with a stopper H, cut with a corre- sponding screw, and fixed together with intervening leather washers, so as to insure a hermetical jointure THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. 67 of the two tubes simultaneously. The tubes CD and J^-Z^are similarly adjusted. The whole apparatus is fixed, at the points A G IF, in a bath L M, which is filled with cold water constantly renewed, during distillation, by the entrance of fresh water at the bottom, which drives off, through a tube, the water which becomes heated, and then always occupying the uppermost part of the bath. The modus operandi of this apparatus is easily explained. The vapors enter into the large tube A B, and are there con- densed and run off slowly in liquid form, into the slightly-inclined tube D (7, and from that again into E F, and, as they are continually in contact with cold water, the liquid soon cools to the temperature of the atmosphere, and falls into the receiver through the tube F. If six feet of passage-pipe should be insuf- ficient to cool the liquor, the apparatus can be enlarged by merely increasing the number of tubes. It is not requisite that the breadth of the bath L M should be great; for instance, supposing the diameter of the tube A B at three inches, then seven or eight inches width are sufficient for the continuous renewal of the water. This bath is of wood, lined with zinc or cop- per. The connections of the tubes are such as to allow their cleansing at pleasure, by rubbing the interior with hair brushes and water until all smell is removed. At the bottom of the bath is con- veniently placed a stopcock, through which to let off the water, after the completion of the distillation. THE WATER-BATH. This most useful fixture for distilling very volatile substances enables the per- fumer to regulate his temperature so as not to exceed 212 F. It is a movable cylindrical vessel of tin, or tinned 68 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. copper, fitting and sitting in the aperture C C of the still A (Fig. 1), and resting therein by its collar or flange JVJV, so that its bottom does not reach that of the cucurbit. It is placed in and taken out by the Fig. 4. handles 0. The neck a a of the capital is made so as to be used to the still, either with or without the bath. Fig. 5 exhibits a water-bath complete, the inner vessel represented by dotted lines being the recipient for the materials, and the outer jacket, the water- holder or heating medium. The mode of operating by this latter plan is to place the selected materials in the kettle, lute on its head, Fig. 5. and through the socket D (Fig. 1) pour in the water. The top of the capital, being externally concave, is filled with a layer of powdered charcoal, which, as a bud conductor of heat, prevents the condensation of THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. 69 the vapors in that part of the head, and their conse- quent falling back into the still. DISTILLATION BY STEAM. This mode of distil- lation is particularly applicable for making distilled water from leaves, flowers, roots, and similar sub- stances, and the form of apparatus most convenient for it is shown by Fig. 6. It consists of a tinned Fig. 6. copper body and head, of the form represented by the drawing, with a perforated false bottom Fig. 7, Fig. 7. which serves as a platform for the support of the charge of leaves or material. The steam is introduced through the pipe leading beneath the platform, and, passing over through the beaker into the condenser, carries along the oil which is taken up during its transit through the still, and deposits it in the Flo- rentine glass receiver, Fig. 8. The beak is ad- justed and luted to the condenser, Fig. 3. 70 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Fig. 8. GLASS ALEMBICS AND EETORTS. To procure liquors of a very delicate perfume, recourse is had to rectification, that is, redistillation of the liquid already distilled, and for this purpose the water- or sand-bath is necessary. For the preparation of the vinegars, the acid properties of which are so corrosive of copper, it is always better to use glass or stoneware vessels. Glass retorts, as shown by Figs. 9 and 10, when of large size, are generally tubulated, that is, provided Fig. 9. Fig. 10. with a stoppered tube at the top of the arch or bend, so as to render their refilling practicable and easy, without moving them from their beds. The liquid may either be put in all at once through a funnel, or in detached proportions, and gradually, by means of a tube at S (Fig. 11) adapted to the opening, and, at the same time, serving as a safety- tube. To give more length to the beak of the retort, THE LABORATORY AND ITS REQUIREMENTS. 71 there is sometimes added and affixed thereto a glass tube, open at both ends, and bulging in the centre, as shown at Fig. 11. Fig. 11. "We give the description of a furnace which we can recommend to the perfumer. Furnace with Hot Wetter to melt Pomades and Pliilo- comes. Fig. 12. A A A A. Masonry work. B. Hearth, with grate. C. Ash-pan. D. Chimney. E E. Box of sheet-iron, containing water, having at the top three cylin- drical apertures, in each of which is placed a pan containing the pomade or 72 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. philocome that is to be melted. The diameter of these pans is a little less than that of the apertures, so that they can be easily introduced in the box, and can be taken out after each operation. At two-thirds of their height they have a strong edge which prevents their going to the bottom of the box. To put this furnace in operation, light the fire on the hearth B. The flame circulates around the bottom and edges of the box, and rapidly heats the water it contains. Then introduce the pans F G H into the aperture. "When the substances they contain are melted, mould in the ordinary way. This plan enables the perfumer to manufacture different kinds of pomades at the same time, without the inconveniences that attend heating by a direct fire. CHAPTER YI. TINCTURES. Tincture of Ambergris. Ambergris (gray) . . .2 ounces. Loaf sugar . . . . 4 " Rect. alcohol . - .8 pints. Rub up the ambergris in an iron mortar with the sugar, adding a small portion of the alcohol at a time, pouring the mixture into the bottle, continuing to add the spirit by degrees until all the ambergris is taken up. Keep the tincture in a moderately warm place for a month in order to facilitate solution. Tincture of Ambrette. (Musk seed.) Ambrette, bruised or ground 2 pounds. Rectified alcohol .1 gallon. Put together and macerate for two or three wee ks, when filter. TINCTURES. 73 Tincture of Archil. Archil . . . . .2 ounces. Alcohol . . . . .1 pint. This tincture is of a rich, red color, and is used to color hair- and tooth-washes. Tincture of Alkanet. Alkanet root . . .1 ounce. Alcohol 1 pint. Alkanet is a fine red color when fresh, but being fugitive will soon fade. Tincture of Benzoin. Gum benzoin in coarse powder 1 pound. Eectified alcohol . . .4 pints. Mix the ingredients ; keep in a warm place for a fortnight with frequent agitation, when filter. Tincture of Cinnamon. Take of cinnamon in powder . 1 pound. Alcohol . . . . .4 pints. This is useful in mouth-washes and dentifrices. Tincture of Cedar. Take of Spanish cedar . . 1 pound. Alcohol . . . . .4 pints. A useful tincture in dentifrices, and sometimes to color essences. 74 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Tincture of Civet. Civet (good) ... .2 ounces. Orris root, ground . . .4 " Rectified alcohol . . .8 pints. Rub the civet with the orris in an iron mortar, adding the spirit by degrees, and macerate for a month before using. Tincture of Cantharides. Spanish flies, in powder . . 4 ounces. Alcohol . . . . .4 pints. Used in hair tonics and washes. Tincture of Cochineal. Cochineal (ground) . . 2 ounces. Alcohol 1 pint. Useful as a coloring tincture in some essences. Tincture of Gamboge. Gamboge, in powder . . 2 ounces. Alcohol 1 pint. Used to color yellow. Tincture of Myrrh. Gum myrrh, in powder . . 2 ounces. Alcohol, 80 . . . .1 pint, Useful in tooth washes. Tincture of Music. Tonquin musk . . .4 ounces. Loaf sugar . ... 6 Rectified alcohol . . .8 pints. TINCTURES. 75 Bruise the cut-up musk with the sugar in an iron mortar, adding small portions of the spirit at a time until all is taken up; macerate for a month before filtering and using. Tincture of Santal. Santal wood, ground . . 8 ounces. Alcohol . . . . .4 pints. I have often found this tincture useful in some es- sences and in tooth elixirs. Tincture of Patcliouly. Patchouly leaves . . .8 ounces. Alcohol . . . . .4 pints. When the leaves are good, this tincture serves to color essences a greenish tint. Tincture of Sty rax. Styrax . . . . .1 pound. Alcohol 8 pints. This tincture can be frequently used to advantage in many kinds of bouquets, etc., but being very strong it requires judgment in order to avoid excess. Tincture of Tonquin. Tonka bean, ground . . 2 pounds. Rectified alcohol . . .8 pints. Is a very useful tincture in frequent demand to add to essences, bouquets, etc., which besides the odor tends to give them permanency. 76 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Tincture of Turmeric. Turmeric, ground . . .2 ounces. Alcohol 1 pint. Tincture of curcuma gives a lemon-yellow color to essences. Tincture of Tolu Balsam. Balsam of Tolu . . . 1 pound. Rectified alcohol . . .8 pints. Tincture of Tolu is often a valuable addition to various essences. Tincture of Peru Balsam. Balsam of Peru . . .1 pound. Rectified alcohol . . .8 pints. This tincture is used for the same purposes as the Tolu tincture. Tincture of Saffron. Saffron (Sativum) . . .2 ounces. Alcohol . . . . .2 pints. A fine yellow tincture, which has a pleasant odor, and is often in request for coloring many preparations. Tincture of Vanilla. Vanilla, chipped . . .1 pound. Sugar-candy . . . i " Rectified alcohol . . .7 pints. Water 1 " Beat up the chipped pods with the sugar, adding the water gradually, then the alcohol ; macerate the whole EXTRACTS ATCT> BOUQUETS. 77 together for a fortnight before using. Vanilla is one of the most useful of perfumes, and improves nearly every bouquet it enters into and makes it lasting. Tincture of Vitivert. "Vitivert root, ground . . 8 ounces. Alcohol 4 pints. Vitivert can be used in this form in several es- sences and bouquets, and has the property of adding to the perfume and permanency of bouquets. There are a number of aniline colors that can be usefully employed in coloring many preparations, and of which it may be well to have a supply on hand, for many goods are required to please the eye as well as the nose ; but as far as the extracts and bouquets for the handkerchief are concerned, all color as a rule should be avoided. CHAPTER VII. EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. I HAVE in the third chapter explained the mode of extracting the odor of flowers by maceration and ab- sorption in the south of France and Italy, and have remarked that the number of flowers cultivated for the purposes of the perfumer is somewhat limited, but that number judiciously used is sufficient, in con- junction with the numerous tinctures and essential oils, to compound almost all extracts and bouquets at present in demand. 78 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. There is quite a difference in the names given by different writers to the materials and liquids used, and some works call essential oils essences or ottos. I prefer giving those that are the most common and well known, the term oils; not because it is strictly correct, but because it is the best understood, and usage gives authority to it. And so with the word extracts, they are called huilles, oils, essences, esprits, and waters. I shall call extracts all the alcohol at es from the flower pomades and oils, and all having a simple composition ; and bouquets, all that are of a compound nature, and intended to per- fume the handkerchief ; and waters, all those intended for the toilet as well as the handkerchief, or for gene- ral perfuming, such as eau de Cologne, lavender water, etc. When I have occasion to use waters in a form- ula I shall so call them, as rose-water, etc. So when I speak of extract of rose, for instance, in the form- ulas, I shall so call it, and allude to the alcoholates by numbers 1 and 2, being the first and second wash- ing of the pomades. Of these alcoholates, it is always necessary to have a supply ready for compounding the different odors and bouquets, and my system is to wash the pomades or oils with the alcohol twice; hence the numbers one and two, first and second qualities or strengths. Some of the French writers recommend a third wash- ing, but I have never found it necessary, as two operations take out nearly all the odor, and what is left is not sufficient to perfume the pomade when bottled, to which use I always apply it. EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 79 Extract of Cassie, No. 1. Pomade, or oil of cassie . 6 pounds. Deodorized alcohol . . 8 pints. Put the pomade, or oil, into a wide-mouthed bottle, or stone jar (or into a tinned-copper churn made for the purpose), and add the alcohol ; keep in a warm place, frequently stirring, for a month, when decant oft' the extract and again subject the pomade to another eight pints of alcohol, and proceed as before to make extract No. 2. Extract of Jasmine, No. 1. Jasmine pomade, or oil . .6 pounds. Deodorized alcohol . . 8 pints. Proceed as with the extract of cassie. Extract of Orange Flower, No. 1. Pomade, or oil of orange flower 6 pounds. Deodorized alcohol . . .8 pints. Proceed as with the extract of cassie. Extract of Rose, No. 1. Pomade, or oil of rose . . 6 pounds. Deodorized alcohol . . 8 pints. Operate as for the extract of cassie. Extract of Tuberose, No. 1. Pomade, or oil of tuberose . 6 pounds. Deodorized alcohol " . .8 pints. Treat the same as extract of cassie. 80 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Extract of Violet Yiolet pomade, or oil .4 pounds. Deodorized alcohol . . 8 pints. Proceed as for extract of cassie. There are also pomades and oils of reseda, syringa, hyacinth, and jonquil, but they are seldom imported into the United States for the perfumer. When ordered direct from the seat of manufacture, he may often get the article that is genuine in name only, and which he could as easily have made from the materials already on hand, the formulas for which I give in the chapter on pomades. The perfumer having followed my system thus far, and having his tinctures prepared and his simple ex- tracts ready, should now supply himself with an assortment of essential oils. Oil of almonds (bitter). Oil of lemon. " aniseed. " limette. " bay. " lemon grass. " bergamot. marjoram. " caraway. " mirbane. " cassia. " nutmeg. " cinnamon. neroli. u coriander. orange. " citronella. petit-grain. " cardamom. " peppermint. cedrat. pimento. " fennel. " palma-rosa. " gaultheria. " rose. " geranium. " rosemary. " ginger grass. " santal. " lavender. " sage. EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 81 Oil of sassafras. Oil of thyme, red. serpolet. thyme, white. " spike-lavender. * verbena. " spearmint. " ylang ylang. As nearly all, if not all of these oils are articles of commerce, there is not much difficulty in obtaining them in such quantities as may be required, and those who deal in and import the essential oils have also the distilled waters of rose and orange flowers, with which the perfumer should supply himself. "When he has supplied himself with all these requi- site materials, and has them made into the proper form, and arranged with proper regard to convenience and to system, he is prepared to compound his ex- tracts, bouquets, and toilet waters. It may be necessary here to call the attention of the novice to the importance of studying the nature of his many ingredients, particularly the different odors, with regard to the compatibility of their per- fumes. For the making of perfumery is not only a trade, but may justly be called an art, for as the artist blends and contrasts his colors on the canvas, the perfumer can mix and combine his odors so nicely that he can simulate every known fragrance. More- over he must study the character of his odors. Some are delicate and evanescent, to them he must add some of the many substances he has to give them permanency ; others are strong and require modifying with a more delicate or different odor ; good judg- ment and good taste are very essential to success in this art, as they are in all others. Any one may fill a bottle and cork it, but how many will be able to tell the quality of its contents ? 6 82 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. While giving the formulas for the extracts, and bouquets for the handkerchief, I shall accompany each odor with suitable remarks, founded on the long experience I have had in their composition, as to their qualities and desirability ; as these perfumes are perhaps the most important in the business, and most in request at the present time. Again, the new beginner may suppose, by a casual glance at the recipes, that there is great sameness ; but that would be an error, as a smaller or a larger quantity of one or more ingredients may make a great difference in the result. Extrait d' Acacia. (Cassie.) Extract of cassie, No. 1 . .2 pints. " jasmine, No. 1 . f " tuberose, No. 1 . \ " Tincture of ambergris . . 2 ounces. Orange-flower water (double) . 8 " Cassie is not a favorite perfume by itself, but com- bined as above is much liked. Extrait d'Amande Amar. (Bitter almond flowers.) Extract of cassie, No. 1 . \ pint. Tincture of civet . . 4 ounces. Deodorized alcohol . . 2 pints. Oil of bitter almonds . 3 fluidrachms. " bergamot . . 2 " cinnamon . . \ Rose-water (double) . 1 pint. This odor to some is very agreeable, particularly when the other ingredients give it a soft, flowery odor. EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 83 Bouquet d j Alhambra. Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . 2 pints. cassie, No. 1 . . \ " " orange flower, No. 1 | " Tincture of civet . . . \ " Oil of rose geranium . . 1 drachm. Rose-water, triple . . . \ pint. A very pleasant perfume. Bouquet d'Aspasia. Extract of violet, No. 1 .1 pint. " rose, No. 2 . . 1 " jasmin, No. 2 I " Tincture of vanilla . . i " " musk . . I " Oil of bergamot . . . .3 drachms. cloves .... 1 Orange-flower water, triple . f pint. Extract d'Amlrette. (Purple sweet sultan.) Extract of rose, No. 2 . . 1 pint. Tincture of ambrette . . . 1| 4< " ambergris . . % Rose-water, triple . . .1 This formula gives a pleasant variety. Extract of Auberpine. Extract of cassie, No. 1 . 1 J pint. rose, No. 2 . .1 " tuberose, No. 2 . \ " Tincture of storax . . .5 orris . . . | " 84: PEKFUZMEKY AXD KIXDKED ARTS. Oil of cedar . . \ ounce. " fennel . . . . \ Rose-water, double . . . \ pint. This, of course, is a fancy odor, and quite pleasant. Extrait cVAmbre. Extract of rose, No. 2 . 1^ pint. Tincture of ambergris . . 1^ " vanilla . . . | " " musk . . . | " Rose-water, double . . i " Ambergris not having in itself the most agreeable odor, the above combination is very fine, and will last a long while. Bouquet d* Amour. (Perfect love.) Extract of rose, No. 1 . . 1J pint, jasmin, ~No. 1 . .1 " violet, No. 2 . . i " Tincture of musk . . i " ambergris . . 2 ounces. Eose-water, triple . . . C " This has always been a very popular essence, and one that is always safe to recommend; containing ingredients generally admired. .Brazilian Bouquet. Extract of rose, No. 1 . .1 pint. " tuberose, No. 2 .1 " " orange flower, No. 2. \ " Tincture of Tolu . . -I" vanilla . . . I " " civet . . . i " Rose-water, double . . 4 a EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 85 Extract of Bergamot. Oil of bergamot . . . 6 ounces. rose geranium . . \ Tincture of musk . . . 2 " " orris . . . 4 " Deodorized alcohol . . 3 pints. Rose-water, double . . \ " This compound improves the bergamot, rendering it softer. Essence Bouquet. (Or nosegay.) Extract of rose, ]STo. 1 .2 pints. Tincture of orris . . . 1 " musk . . . j " Oil of rose . . . 1 drachm. neroli bigarade . . 1 " bergamot . . . 2 ounces, " lemon . . . . 1 " Rose-water, double . . .8 There is no perfume more popular than this, and I consider it an improvement on the English, which contains too much bergamot. ff Bospliorus Bouquet. Extract of cassie, To. 1 \ .2 pints. jasmin, No. 2 . . J " " orange flower, jfSTo. 2 | " tuberose, ]S T o. 2 . J Tincture of civet . . - i " Oil of almonds (bitter) . . ^ drachm. Orange-flower water . . | pint. 86 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Centennial Bouquet. Extract of rose, No. 1 . 1 pint, jasmin, No. 2 . . f " tuberose, No. 2 . | " Tincture of ambrette . . . \ " vanilla . . i " U -mnoV 1 musk . . 4 Oil of lemon .... 1 ounce. verbena J " santal . . . J " Orange-flower water . . . 8 " A compound odor of my own, which has proved popular. Bouquet de Caroline. Extract of rose, No. 1 . .1 pint. violet, No. 2 . . 1 " " tuberose, No. 2 . I " Tincture of orris . . . | " " ambergris . . J " Oil of bergamot ... . ^ ounce. cedrat . . . . J " Rose-water, doable . . .8 This handkerchief extract has always been a favorite, and there is no reason why it should not con- tinue to be so. Extract of the Cedar of Lebanon. Extract of rose, No. 1 . . 1 pint. Tincture of ambrette . . 1 " " orris . A " EXTRACTS AXD BOUQUETS. Oil of cedar .... 1 ounce. " petit-grain . . . J " Rose-water . . . . . 8 " Deodorized alcohol . . .1 pint. 87 Extrait de Chypre. (Cypress bouquet.) Extract of rose, No. 1 . .1 pint. Tincture of orris . . . 1 " Tonquin . . i " " vanilla . . i " musk . . . I " ambergris . . i " Rose-water, double . . i " Caprice de la Mode. (Fashion bouquet.) Extract of jasmin, No. 1 . tuberose, No. 2 . cassie, No. 2 Tincture of benzoin . " civet Oil of almonds . nutmegs . Orange-flower water, double Cashmere Nosegay. Extract of violet, No. 1 " rose, No. 2 Tincture of benzoin . " civet " Tonquin . Flowers of benzoin . . Oil of patchouly santal Rose-water, triple pint. 1 1 1 1 1 " I i " ^ drachm. I 12 ounces. 1 pint. a a a a ounce. a u 88 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Bouquet de Cytlieria. Extract of cassie, No. 1 jasmine, No. 2 . tuberose, No. 2 rose, ]S T o. 2 Tincture of ambrette . musk Oil of orange . " cloves . Rose-water, double Cosmopolitan Bouquet. Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . jasmin, No. 2 Tincture of orris " civet Oil of bergamot neroli . Rose-water, triple Extract of Damask Rose. Extract of rose, No. 1 " No. 2 " tuberose, No. 2 . Tincture of orris " civet Oil of rhodium . Orange-flower water, triple 1 pint. 1 u I 1 " i 1 l u 1 1 ounce. i * 10 1 pint. 1 1 " 1 1 ounce, l ii 8 " pint. 1 1 " 1 cc J ounce, 12 Bouquet des Dames. (Ladies' bouquet.) Extract of jasmin, No. 1 . .1 pint. " cassie, No. 2 . J " " tuberose, ]STo. 2 . . | " EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 89 Tincture of ambergris . . J pint. musk . . . } " Oil of bergamot .... 1 ounce. _L " verbena . " cloves . . 1 drachm- Deodorized alcohol . . .1 pint. Rose-water, triple Extract of Eglantine. (Sweetbrier.) Extract of rose, No. 1 . .1 pint, cassie, No. 2 . . J " orange flower, No. 2 . | " Tincture of oris . . . \ " Tonquin . . J " Oil of verbena .... | drachm. " neroli . \ Deodorized alcohol . . .1 pint. Rose- water, double . . . \ " The sweetbrier is a general favorite, and of course all perfumers try to imitate it. This is my idea of the perfume. Euosmia. (Greek incense.) Extract of rose, No. 1 . .1 pint. " jasmin, No. 1 . . 1 " " cassie, No. 2 . . f " Tincture of ambergris . i " musk . . i " " olibanum . . J " Oil of cedrat .... 1 ounce. " rose . . . . . | drachm. " santal . \ ounce. Orange-flower water, triple . 8 90 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. This is an original essence, and deserves the popu- larity which it has obtained, as its fragrance is soft and lasting. Flowers of Erin. Extract of rose, No. 1 " jasmin, No. 2 . Tincture of orris vanilla Rose-water Bouquet d'lmperatrice. Extract of rose, No. 1 tuberose, No. 1 . violet, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla Tonquin . Oil of santal geranium . Eose-water, triple pint. 1 pint. 1 " 1 " 1 ! " 2 drachms. 1 8 ounces. This is a very pleasant odor, that will always please. Extrait de Frangipani. Extract of orange flower, No. 1 2 pints. rose, No. 2 . . 1 " Tincture of musk . . i " " vitivert . . . J " orris . . J " Oil of santal .... 1 drachm, neroli . . . . 1 " rose . . . . \ " Rose-water, triple . . .4 ounces. This always popular extract is named after a EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 91 Roman family, by whom it was invented about a thousand years ago. Florentine Bouquet. Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . . 1^ pint. jasmin, No. 1 . . J " cassie, No. 2 . . .1 " Tincture of benzoin . . J " " civet . . I " Oil of rose . . . . . \ drachm. " bergamot . \ ounce. Orange-flower water, triple . 8 Bouquet de Fee. (Fairy bouquet.) Extract of violet, No. 1 .1 pint, rose, No. 2 . 1 " jasmin, No. 2 . . \ " Tincture of orris . . I " ambergris . i " " civet . . | " Oil of neroli (bigarade) . . \ ounce. cloves . . . I . " Rose-water, triple . . ' . 8 An original bouquet of pleasant perfume. Bouquet de Flora. (Nosegay of flowers.) Extract of rose, No. 1 . 1 pint. jasmin, No. 2 . . 1 " " orange flower, No. 2 . \ " Tincture of orris . . . . \ " " civet . . . \ " " ambrette . . . \ " " musk 2 ounces. 92 PERFUMERY A^TD KINDRED ARTS. Oil of lavender .... 1 drachm, bergamot . . . . 2 " cloves . . . . 1 " neroli . . . | " Orange-flower water . . .6 ounces. This is a very fine combination, and should be popular. Extrait des Fleurs des Champs. (Wild flowers.) Extract of cassie, No. 1 .1 pint. " rose, ]ST o. 2 . . 1 " jasmin, No. 2 . . 1 " Tincture of Tonquiii . . | " civet . . . i " Oil of bergamot . ... 2 drachms. " verbena . . . . 1 " Orange-flower water, triple . 4 ounces. . / Extrait des Fleurs d l ltalie. (Italian nosegay.) Extract of rose, ~No. 1 . 1 pint. " orange flower, No. 2 . \ " jasmin, No. 2 . . \ " " violet, No. 2 . . \ u Tincture of orris . . i " " musk . . . I " benzoin . . . \ " ambergris . i " Rose-water, double . . i " This is one of the oldest and best known of essences. EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 93 Bouqiiet dllndes. (Indian nosegay.) Extract of rose, No. 1 . 1J pint. " orange flower, No. 2 . f " Tincture of musk . . . \ Tonquin . . . J ambrette . . k Oil of santal . . . 1 drachm. " patchouly . . . 1 " Rose-water, triple . . .8 ounces. Extract de Fleur d* Orange. (Orange blossom.) Extract of orange flower, No. 1 1 pint. a No. 2 1 " " cassie, No. 2 J " Tincture of civet . . i " " orris . . \ " Oil of neroli (bigarade) . . 2 drachms. Orange-flower water, triple . 4 ounces. Extract of Geranium. (Rose geranium.) v Extract of cassie, No. 2 .2 pints. " rose, No. 2 . . . \ " Tincture of benzoin . . . J " orris . . . . | " " ambrette ! . I " Oil of rose geranium (true) . 1^ ounce. Rose-water, triple . . . .. b 94 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Gypsy Nosegay. Extract of jasmin, No. 1 orange flower, No. 2 " cassie, No. 2 Tincture of orris . " musk Oil verbena Rose-water, triple Hedyosmia. Extract of rose, No. 1 orange flower, No. 1 " cassie, No. 2 Tincture of musk ambrette . Oil of neroli " lavender . " cloves " angelica Orange flower-water, triple . 1 pint. 1 " 1 " ounce. 1 pint. 1 " 1 i " 1. 4 1 drachm. 2 " 1 i " 8 ounces. This is an English odor and has numerous admirers. \f Extrait au Heliotrope. Extract of rose, No. 1 " orange flower, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla . " civet " ambergris Oil of almonds . Rose-water, triple 2 pints. 2 ounces. 2 " 1 drachm. 4 ounces. Heliotrope is not cultivated for its perfume, EXTRACTS A1STD BOUQUETS. 95 although very fine. This formula is an imitation, and I believe a very good one. Extract of Honeysuckle. (Woodbine.) 1 pint. 1 " Extract of rose, No. 1 " orange flower, No. 1 tuberose, ]STo. 2 . Tincture of Tolu " vanilla " musk Oil of neroli, petale almonds . Rose-water. 1 " ! " _L 1< 1 drachm. 1 a 8 ounces. drachm. Extract of Hovenia. Extract of cassie, No. 1 . 1 J pint, " orange flower, No. 2.1 " Tincture of ambrette . . . i " orris " civet Oil of neroli . . " rose .... limette .^ " cloves . . . . \ "' Orange-flower water, triple . 8. ounces. Hovenia is a native of Japan, but fs not a very pleasant odor, but the English perfumers liking the name have compounded' an odor which resembles that of the above recipe. Bouquet. Like Bouquet d' Amour. 96 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Extra it a la Jacintlie. (Hyacinth.) Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . .1 pint. " rose, No. 2 . . . 1 " jasmin, No. 2 . . 1 " Tincture of Tonquin . . 1 " ambergris . J " Orange-flower water, triple . \ " Extrait au Jasmin. Extract of jasmin, No. 1 . . 1| pint. " No. 2 . .1 " Tincture of ambrctte . . . J " civet . . . i " Orange-flower water . . f " Jasmin alone is somewhat heavy in odor, but by a slight modification is made pleasant and permanent. Extrait a la Jonquille. Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . .1 pint. , jasmin, No. 1 . . 1 " " orange flower, No. 1.1 " Tincture of orris . . . \ " vanilla . . . I " " civet . . . i " Rose-water . . . i " This, of course, is an imitation, but nevertheless a good one 3 of pleasant fragrance. Jockey Club Houquet. Extract of rose, No. 1 . . 1 pint. " cassie, No. 1 . . 1 " u orange flower, No. 1 . ^ u EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 97 Tincture of orris . . . . \ pint, ambergris . i " musk . . 4 " Oil of bergamot ... .1 ounce, rose 1 drachm. Orange-flower water . . .8 ounces. This is of English origin, and has a great name and a great sale. ./ Kiss-Me- Quick. Extract of jasmine, No. 1 . .1 pint. " violet, No. 2 i " " rose, No. 2 . I " Tincture of vanilla . . . " " vitivert . . | " " orris i " " musk Oil of bergamot .... 1 ounce. rose . . . . . 1 drachm. " cloves . . . . \ ." Rose-water, double . . .8 ounces.*, A fancy perfume still in vogue. -j Extrait de Lilas. (Lilac jblos'som.) Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . 1 pint. " cassie, No. 2 . \ " orange flower, No. 2 . 1 " Tincture of orris . . J " " civet . . . i " Rose-water, triple . . . f " The perfume of the lilac, like that flower, soon fades; therefore we make an imitation. 7 98 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Extract of Lily of the Valley. Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . .1 pint, jasmine, No. 2 . . 1 " orange flower, No. 2 . 1 " Tincture of vanilla . . J " benzoin . . . \ " Oil of almonds .... 1 drachm. Rose-water, triple . . .8 ounces. This is also an imitation, but, as I think, an im- provement on the original. . Extract of Garden Lavender. Deodorized alcohol . . . 1J pint. Extract of cassie, No. 2 . . 1 " Tincture of ambrette . . . | " orris . ^. - I " Oil of Eng. lavender . . .2 ounces. Rose-water, triple . . . S " Be careful to use the English oil, as the French lavender is not nearly so sweet. Extract of Magnolia. Extract of tuberose, No. 2 . .1 pint. " orange flower, No. 1.1" violet, No. 2 . . 1 " rose, No. 2 . . | " Tincture of musk . . . J " Oil of cedrat .... 1 ounce. almonds . . .1 drachm. Rose-water, triple . . .4 ounces. An imitation of a delightful fragrance that will be found excellent. EXTRACTS AXD BOUQUETS. 90 1 pint. 1 JEJxtrait des Fleurs de Mai. (May flower's.) * Extract of cassie, No. 1 " tuberose, No. 1 . " jasmine, No. 2 . orange flower, No. 2 Tincture of ambrette . " vanilla Oil of geranium . neroli almonds . Rose-water, triple 2 drachms. 1 l 2 8 ounces. Bouquet de Mille-fleurs. (A thousand flowers.) Extract of rose, No. 1 tuberose, No. 2 . " jasmine, No. 2 . " orange flower, No. 2 " cassie, No. 2 Tincture of vanilla " musk ambergris Oil of neroli " bergamot . " cloves almonds Rose-water, triple 1 pint. 1 u 1 2 1 " 2 ounces. 2 " 1 drachm. 2 / * i ' i 1 " 8 ounces. A perfume that has always been popular and always will be. 100 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Extract of Meadow-sweet. Extract of cassie, No. 1 " r range flower, No. 2 , jasmine, No. 2 . Tincture of Tonquin . orris u civet Oil of bergamot . almonds Rose-water, triple 1 pint. 1 " 1 " 1 I 1 4 2 ounces. 1 " 1 drachm. 8 ounces. A pleasant perfume of delicate character. Extract of Moss Rose. Extract of rose, No. 1 " No. 2 orange flower, No. 2 Tincture of orris civet Oil of rose .... rhodium . Rose-water, triple 1 pint. 1 " 1 '2 1 " 1 u 4 drachm. . 4 ounces. This will be found to be a fine perfume that will improve by age. Extrait de Muse. (Musk extract.) Extract of rose, No. 2 Tincture of musk " civet ambergris ambrette . storax Rose-water, triple . . .4 This is a general favorite, though many will say that 1 hey " cannot bear musk." 2 pints. 1 " 1 u 1 " i " 1 ounce. u EXTRACTS AND BOUQUETS. 101 Bouquet de Marecliale. Extract of rose, No. 1 . . 1 pint. " orange-flower, JN o. 2 . 1 " Tincture of vitivert . . . 1 " " Tonquin . . . J " " vanilla . . . J " " orris . . | " Oil of neroli . . .1 drachm. " vitivert . . . . \ " Rose-water, triple . . .4 ounces. This odor had at one time a great name ; its popu- larity was due to the vitivert. It is still in demand. ^/ Extract of Narcissus. Extract of jasmine, No. 1 . . 1 pint. cassie, No. 2 . . 1 " rose, No. 2 . . \ " i " civet . . " Tincture of vanilla " orris Oil of almonds .... 1 drachm Orange-flower water, triple . 8 ounces. Extract of Neiv-mown Hay. Extract of rose, No. 1 . 1 pint. " cassie, No. 2 . . 1 " " orange flower, No. 2 \ " Tincture of Tonquin . . . \ " " vanilla i " orris Oil of cedrat .... 1 ounce. verbena . . . \ Orange-flower water, triple . 8 102 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS, This is justly a very popular extract, and its odor of the hay will be found, very natural. Extract of Night-blooming Cereus. Extract of tuberose, No. 1 . 1 pint. rose, No. 2 . . 1 BOUQUETS. 115 Tincture of civet . . . J pint. Oil of ylang ylang . . . | ounce. Bectified spirit (65) . . . 1| pint. This is a new and favorite extract of East Indian source, and is a distinctive odor. The formulas given are those of the proper strength for usual sale; if the perfumer wishes a cheaper article, he can dilute them with rectified spirit of 65 strength, as he may wish, or with rose and orange- flower water, though they would he difficult to make clear, and it would be a loss of perfume to filter very often. The rose and orange-flower waters I use are those imported from France and Italy, and are far superior to any we distil in this country. It is ne- cessary to keep in mind that as these extracts and bouquets are intended for the handkerchief, all coloring matter that would make a stain must be avoided. In giving the formulas I have endeavored to avoid all articles having any decided color, but if by chance the compound should have too much, fil- tering through coarsely ground animal charcoal will generally remove it. It will also be seen that I have given the formula for about four pints of extract, as the most convenient, as I thought, for the manipulator or dealer; should he want a smaller quantity he can easily divide it, or if a larger, multiply it ad infinitum. Few perfumes for the handkerchief should be dis- tilled, for the true delicacy of the flower odor is injured or lost, for any excess of heat will alter if not destroy it. I mention this as a precaution, because many books advise distillation for many such preparations. The perfumer in this country has several disadvan- 116 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. tages to contend with. His alcohol is generally made from corn spirit, while the alcohol used by the French is of brandy spirit, the bouquet of which is so dif- ferent from ours, and which no doubt gives the peculiarity to their perfumes, especially to the eau de Cologne, that we cannot hope to rival until such spirit is attainable ; and yet there are some few odors made from our spirit, when properly deodorized, that have as good if not better fragrance than theirs. But for citrous odors and for lavender theirs is superior. I would suggest, that, when the perfumer wishes to simulate the brandy spirit, a half ounce of acetic ether to each gallon of alcohol will have the desired effect. In the preceding formulas for extracts and bouquets the reader will perceive I use a small portion of the distilled waters of rose and orange flower. This is because our alcohol comes to us at 95 in strength, which is too strong for the extracts, making them too pungent and volatile. The French recipes call for spirit fully 10 less in strength. Hence the reason for my formulas having the waters to bring them to about that strength. If they should not be clear, a few grains of carbonate of magnesia in the filter will make them so. None of these odors should be bottled or sold until they are three or four weeks old, as all perfumes made of spirit seem to require that length of time to get a proper blending of the odors; and if well made they improve with time. AHOMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. 117 CHAPTER VIII. AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. "WniLE giving so many recipes for making the handkerchief odors, I may apologize for their great number; but they are selected from at least as many more at my command as being the best, simplest, and most in demand. I have also adopted terms in general use by druggists in this country to designate the materials used, as also the apothecary's or troy weight. I designate a tincture, such as has alcohol as the solvent of the drug. Extracts, all the alcoholates of simple odors from the French oils and pomades, and essential oils I call oils, that term being the best known. I repeat this as a reason for giving simple terms as far as practicable, as I essay to write a practical work, and use only such terms that the operator may not be misled. I shall now proceed to give the formulas I have adopted for making the weak or spirituous perfumes which I call toilet or aromatic waters, such as eau de Cologne, lavender or Hungary water, bay rum, aro- matic vinegars, etc. etc. The old books are filled with formulas, the ingredients of which, if not un- known to modern and improved tastes, are useless except as guides to a better selection suited to present uses. Cologne water or eau de Cologne, so universally known and used wherever civilization exists, was invented early in the eighteenth century, although 118 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. at first it was called esprit de vie, or elixir of life; nor has it lost any of its popularity by being classed among perfumes only. Innumerable formulas for eau de Cologne exist and are extolled to the skies by their authors, yet the proper ingredients are very simple, for it owes its well-deserved standing in the world of perfumes to the fragrance of the citron plant. As bergamot, lemon, orange, cedrat, limette, neroli, with rosemary, are the chief ingredients these odors, in greater or less variety, modified to the taste, enter into all genuine Cologne waters. Many writers on per- fumery would persuade us that it is necessary to take the whole range of aromatic substances and all the herbs in a book on botany to compound a true Cologne, but it were worse than useless to use such ingredients, for they give an odor foreign to the true eau de Cologne, and deprive it of the refreshing property for which it is esteemed. Owing to the use of alcohol from the grape spirit by the German and French manufacturers of Cologne, we cannot hope to attain the quality of excellence with our alcohol from the corn spirit, for it would seem that the grape spirit is especially adapted to the citron odors to produce the proper aroma for eau de Cologne. Yet with our spirit properly deodorized, a very good product can be obtained, when good judgment is used in selecting pure and fresh materials. The most noted manufacturers of Cologne distil the citron oils with the spirit and afterward add the ne- roli and rosemary. Yet a very good eau de Cologne can be made by merely mixing the ingredients as given by my formulas. As a rule, when the odor is AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. 119 delicate, like jasmine, tuberose, etc., distilling is in- jurious, destroying its ethereal fragrance and pro- ducing a different odor. No. 1. Eau de Cologne. (J. M. Farina.) Oil of bergamot . . 4 fluidounces. " lemon . . . 1J " neroli, bigarade . 3 " rosemary . 3 " " cloves ... | " " lavender (best) . \ " Deodorized alcohol . 2| gallons. Rectified spirit . . 1| " No. 2. Eau de Cologne. (French recipe.) Oil of neroli (petale) . . 3 ounces. " bergamot . . .3 " petit-grain . . .1 " cedrat . 3 " orange (Portugal) . 5 " rosemary . . .3 Deodorized spirit, 65 . . 5| gallons. Mix well and allow it to rest seven days before filtering. No. 3. Eau de Cologne. (Second quality.) Oil of bergamot . . . 4 ounces. " lemon. . . .4 " orange m . .4 " rosemary . . .3 " neroli (petale) . .1 " " petit-grain . 2 " Alcohol, 85 . . . . 6| gallons. 120 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Cologne water is very volatile, and I have found favor for my own recipes because I have made them more lasting by adding some fixing ingredient, which also tends to correct the odor of the fusel oil which remains in the corn spirit, and is unpleasant. No. 4. Eau de Cologne. (Cristiani's.) Oil of bergamot .... 8 fl. ounces. " cedrat . . . . 4 " " rosemary (flowers) . . 4 " " neroli, bigarade . . 2 " " petit-grain . . .2 " cloves . . . . 1 Extract of orange-flower, 2sTo. 1 (from pomade) . . .1 pint. Tincture of ambrette . . i " " orris . . . I " Deodorized alcohol, 95 . . 6 gallons. Orange-flower water, triple . . 1 " This has given general satisfaction, as it approaches in odor many of the most celebrated German co- lognes. Cologne Oil. (Cristiani's Cologne Essence.) Oil of rosemary (flowers) . . 8 ounces. " bergamot , . . . 8 " " orange (Portugal) . . 6 " lemon . . . . 4 " " cedrat . . . . 4 u " neroli (petale) . . .4 " petit-grain . . . 4 " " lavender (best) . . 2 " " cloves . . . . 2 " Alcohol, 95 .... 5| pints. AROMATIC AXD TOILET WATERS. 121 Four ounces of this essence in 7 pints of alcohol and 1 pint of orange-flower water, will make a good cologne water suited to the wants of American buyers. Eciu cPAnge. (Angel water.) Myrtle flowers .... 2 pounds. Rose leaves . . \ Rectified spirit ... .8 pints. Water ..... 2| " Salt ...... 1 pound. Digest together for two days, when distil off one gallon; the salt to be added just before distilling. JEJau de Beaute. Tincture of benzoin . . . 2 ounces. ambergris . . \ " " musk . . | " Rectified spirit, 65 . . . | pint. Orange-flower water . . . 3| " A very cooling and refreshing perfume and cos- metic for the skin. Properly made it will retain its milky appearance, and it is much esteemed for the removal of freckles, tan, etc. de Bouquet de Fleur. Oilofcedrat . . . . \ fl. ounce. " rosemary . . . . \ Extract of rose .... 4 " " violet . . .2 " Tincture of ambergris . . 1 Alcohol, 95 . . . 2i pints. Orange-flower water . . .1 This is a desirable perfume for the handkerchief or lavatory. 122 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Eau de Grand Duchesse. Oil of Portugal (orange) . . 1 ounce, rosemary . . . . \ " cloves . . . .2 drachms, neroli . . . i " Tincture of orris . . . \ pint. Alcohol 3 " .Rose-water J " (Cristiani's.) 8 ounces. 4 " 3 " .. Florida Water. Oil of bergamot . " orange " lavender (best) " cloves " cinnamon (true) Tincture of orris Peru balsam Alcohol, 95 Water Mix, and let it remain quiet for some days before filtering and bottling. Florida water has a great popularity in the West Indies and South America, whence I have made frequent shipments, and this for- mula has given general satisfaction. \ pint. 4 gallons. 6 pints. Eau de Fee. (Fairy water.) Oil of lemon .... " bergamot .... " rosemary .... " lavender .... " cloves .... Tincture of ambrette . " civet Alcohol, 95 .... Oranore-flower water . 1 ounce. i " l 2 1 i " 4 " 2 " 3 pints. AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. 123 This will be found to be a pleasant and economical toilet water, and can also be used on the handker- chief. Geranium Water. Oil of rose geranium, French Tincture of orris " ambrette . Alcohol, 95 ... Rose-water. Hedyosmia Water. Oil of neroli, petale " lavender (best) " cloves " rose .... Tincture of orris musk Alcohol, 95 ... Orange-flower water . 2 fl. ounces. 4 " 4 3 pints. ounce, l 2 . J, 4 1 drachm. \ pint. 2 ounces. 3 pints. A modification of an English recipe where the directions are to distil. It is only necessary to filter the above and produce a very fine toilet water. Heliotrope Water. Oil of rhodium . . .1 drachm. " rose 1 " " almonds . . . .20 drops. Tincture of orris . . . \ pint. vanilla . . . J " " musk . . .1 ounce. Alcohol, 95 . . .3 pints. Rose-water, triple . . .4 ounces. This will be found excellent. 124 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Eau de Lavand. (Lavender water.) Oil of lavender (best) . . 3 ounces, rhodium . . .1 drachm. Alcohol, 95 . . .3 pints. Rose-water . . . . 1 " Lavender water has had and still retains great favor with many people, and when distilled is very fine. The above formula may be distilled, but if fil- tered only it will prove good. Eau de Lavand Ambre. (Amber lavender.) Oil of lavender (Mitcham) . . 2 fl. ounces. " rose 1 fl. drachrn. " bergamot . . . . 1 fl. ounce. Tincture of musk . . .1 ambergris . . 1 Alcohol, 95 . . .3 pints. Rose-water, triple . . .1 Mix, and let it stand a week, filter, and it will be found excellent. Hungary Water. Oil of rosemary ... .1 ounce. " lavender (best). . . \ " " petit-grain . . .1 drachm. Tincture of Tolu. . . . 1 ounce. Alcohol . . . . .3 pints. Orange-flower water . . . 1 " Hungary water owes its peculiarity to rosemary, and was invented several hundred years since, when it was supposed to have the power of causing those who used it as a cosmetic to remain young forever. AROMATIC A^D TOILET WATERS. 125 Eau de Miel. (Honey water.) Oil of lemon " cloves " neroli Tincture of vanilla " ambrette . " musk Alcohol, 95 ... Orange-flower water . A very fine fragrant water. 1 ounce. * . " 1 drachm, 2 ounces. 2 " 1 " 3 pints. S_ U ounce. 1. 4 i " 1 drachm. | pint. Eau de Millefleur. Oil of bergamot . neroli " cloves almonds . Tincture of orris " cedar ambrette . " musk Extract of rose, ~No. 2 cassie, No. 2 Alcohol, 95 ... Rose-water, triple . . . \ " This will be found a favorite fragrance, and a very permanent one for the bath or the handkerchief. 4t 1 5 1 ounce. 2 2 " 2 pints. Eau de JKomain. (Italian flowers.) Oil of orange (Portugal) . . 1 fl. ounce. " neroli, petale . . i " Tincture of benzoin . 2 " vanilla 126 PERFUMERY AND KIXDRED ARTS. Tincture of ambergris . . . 1 fl. ounce. Extract of tuberose, No. 2 . . 2 " " cassie, No. 2 . . 2 " Alcohol, 95 .... 3 pints. Rose-water, triple . . i " This is from an original Italian recipe, and nothing I ever made in this form has had a greater popularity. It is delicate and lasting, and superior to many of the so-called French extracts. Eau de Sultana. Oil of orange . " rose . Extract of jasmine, No. 1 . Tincture of vanilla Tincture of benzoin . Flowers of benzoin Alcohol . Orange-flower water . Eau Hygienique. Eau bouquet de fleur . Gum camphor . Alcohol . Used as a wash for the skin. Eau de Mousselwe. Extract of rose, No. 2 jasmine, No. 2 . orange flower, No. 2 . Tincture of vanilla " musk 1 ounce. 1 drachm, 2 ounces. 2 " 1 " 1 drachm. 3 pints. 2 pints. 1 ounce. 1 pint. 2 ounces. 2 " 2 " 1 " 1 " AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. 127 Oil of cloves .... 1 drachm. " santal . . . \ " Alcohol 3 pints. Orange-flower water . . J " Eau de Violette de Parme. (Italian violet.) Extract of cassie, ~No. 2 . .2 ounces. violet, No. 2 . . 2 " Tincture of orris . . . . 4 " " civet . . . 1 " Oil of almonds ... . \ drachm. " rhodium .... 1 Alcohol, 95 . .3 pints. Rose-water, triple . . i " Violet water will be found a delicate and pleasant article for the toijet or the handkerchief. Eau Vulneraire. Oil of lemon ... . | ounce. " rosemary . . . i u " peppermint . . .1 drachm. Tincture of benzoin . . .4 ounces. " musk . . . . 2 Rectified spirit, 65 . . . 3| pints. Eau de Vanille. Tincture of vanilla . . . 1J pint. Tolu . . | " Tonquin . . . J " ambrette . . . \ " Alcohol 1 " Rose-water . . . . . \ " 128 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Verbena Water Oil of lemon grass . . . 1| ounce. " lemon . . . | " neroli (petit-grain) . . J Tincture of orris . . .4 " Tonquin . . 2 Alcohol, 95 ... 3 pints. Orange-flower water . . . \ " An exceedingly refreshing perfume, and made in this manner will be found better than the generality of verbena water in the market. Bay Hum. Oil of bay . . . . . \ ounce. Loaf sugar . . . . .2 Alcohol, 95 .... 1 pint. Eectified spirit, 60 . . . 7 " Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; lastly put in the spirit, and filter. Bay rum can be made better by using ]ST. E. rum instead of the spirit. I might continue the list of aromatic waters without limit, as there are many more; but they are but modi- fications of those given, and should others be needed the perfumer can get a very correct idea of their in- gredients from those already given. The expert manipulator with the materials at hand can make almost any desired odor, or can invent one himself and give it any euphonious name he may elect. I must proceed to give formulas for arnmoniated and acetic waters or vinegars. The pungency of vinegar used to be thought a hygienic property, and was naturally used as a pro- AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. 129 phylactic with satisfactory results ; indeed, it is a very valuable form of perfume, as its effects are beneficial when a few drops are added to a bath or the lavatory. Vinaigre Aromatique. (De Bully.) Oil of lemon .... 1 ounce. " lavender (Eng.) . . \ " " rosemary flower . J " " cloves . . . . \ " Gum camphor . . . . 1 u Tincture of benzoin . . . 2 " orris . . . 2 " storax . . . 1 " " Tonquin . . 1 " musk . . . 1 " Alcohol, 95 . . . 4J pints. Acetic acid .... 1 Rose- water, triple . . . 1J " Dissolve the oils and camphor in the alcohol ; add the tincture, then the acid, lastly the rose-water ; let it stand a fortnight before filtering. Cologne Vinegar. Cologne essence (Cristiani's) . 2 ounces. Alcohol 3 pints. Acetic acid . . . . \ " Orange-flower water . . \ " This can also be made by adding a portion of acetic acid, say one-eighth, to ordinary Cologne, when acetated Cologne is ordered. I prefer operat- ing as above, as it makes a nicer preparation. 9 130 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Henry's Vinegar. (English.) Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, sage, wormwood, mint, and lavender flowers, of each . \ ounce. Bruised nutmegs, cloves, an- gelica, and camphor, of each J " Alcohol, 95 .... 4 ounces. Concentrated acetic acid . . 16 " The materials are macerated with the alcohol two days, when add the acid and macerate in a warm place for a fortnight, when press out the liquid, being" careful that it does not come in contact with o any metal, as the acid will corrode it and the fluid be contaminated with it. This vinegar is used in vinaigrettes Vinaigre des Quartre Voleurs. (Four thieves' vinegar.) Take the fresh tops of rosemary, sage, wormwood, rue, and mint, of each . . . f ounce. Lavender flowers . . . 1 " Calamus, cloves, nutmegs, and cinnamon (bruised), of each . 1 drachm. Camphor . . . . . | Alcohol . . . . .2 ounces. Strong vinegar . . .1 pint. The camphor is dissolved in the alcohol, added to the other ingredients, and when they have digested ten days the mixture is strained. Marseilles vinegar has had a great reputation as a cure-all, and no doubt is a good preventive of con- AROMATIC AND TOILET WATERS. 131 tagion. It is said to have been invented by four thieves, who robbed the dead at the time of the plague in Marseilles, and by its use escaped the effects of the pestilence. Any druggist can make as effective a preparation by dissolving the essential oils in alcohol and acetic acid. Vinaigre a la Rose. Concentrated acetic acid . . 1 ounce. Otto of rose . ^ drachm. Used like Henry's Vinegar for perfuming vinai- grettes 5 and it is customary to have a little asbestos in the vials in order to retain the vinegar, or fill a pungent with the crystals of sulphate of potash, and let the vinegar fill the interstices ; hence the name of sel de vinaigre or salt of vinegar. Vinaigre a la Violette. (Violet vinegar.) Extract of cassie, No. 2 . . J pint. violet, No. 2 . . I " " rose, No. 2 . | " Tincture of orris . . % " "White wine vinegar . . 2 " Digest for ten days and filter. This is a very pleasant form of aromatic vinegar; and we might give twenty more such recipes, as orange flower, tuberose, etc. etc., but, in view of the instructions already given, it would seem unnecessary, as well as from the fact that we have never found much demand for this class of goods. Of ammoniated products, the demand is equally limited, and is confined to two or three preparations for lavatory purposes, or stronger combinations for 132 PERFUMEKY AND KINDliED ARTS. perfuming pungents or smelling salts. The latter is much used in headaches or to gratify the olfactories. Ammoniated Cologne Water. Cologne essence (Cristiani's) . 1 ounce. Alcohol . . . . .2 pints. Aqua ammonia, FFF. . . 2 ounces. A substitute for spirits of sal volatile. Aromatic Spirits of Ammonia. (Spirits of sal volatile.) Oil of lemon . . . . \ fl. ounce. " rosemary . . . f " " nutmegs . J " Spirits of ammonia . . . 2 pints. A very grateful stimulant and antacid in sick headache, and much used in medicinal practice to assist the action or cover the nauseous taste of medi- cine. It can be advantageously used in the bath or lavatory. Eau de Luce. (Succinated spirits of ammonia.) Oil of amber, rectified . . \ drachm. " lavender . . . 1 " Tincture of benzoin . . .2 ounces. " Peru balsam . . 2 " Aqua ammonia, FFF. . . 6 " Agitate together in a bottle, but do not filter, as it should retain its milky appearance. This prepara- tion is useful as a stimulant and antispasmodic, and as a lotion for the sting of insects and reptiles. SACHET POWDERS, ETC. 133 Volatile Essence. (For perfuming pungents or smelling salts.) Oil of lavender . . . . ^ ounce. " bergamot . . i " " cloves . . . i " rhodium ... .1 drachm. Aqua ammonia, strong . . 21 ounces. This I have generally found to give entire satis- faction as a perfume for the carbonate of ammonia, commonly used in pungents. CHAPTER IX. SACHET POWDERS, ETC. PERFUMES in the form of powders have been traced to the most ancient times, and they were, no doubt, among the earliest forms of perfume; for among the curiosities of the ancient Egyptians in the British Museum is a vase taken from the tomb of a mummy, probably four thousand years old, that was nearly full of a powder of resins, etc., which still had a pleasant odor ; and seems to be such a vase as is still used in many countries to hold a "pot-pourri," a powder of dried flowers and herbs. The Bible also speaks in sundry places of perfumes and gums and frankincense, and of the " "Wise men" presenting to Christ gold, frankincense, and myrrh. Sachet powders are generally put into silk or satin bags, or into ornamental paper envelopes, and are useful for perfuming clothes, drawers, trunks, desks, 134 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. letter paper, etc. etc. Under this bead I shall also treat of scent balls and beads, cassolettes, fumigating pastils, purfumed leather, etc. etc. The variety of these powders is large, with the names of nearly all the extracts or bouquets we have given, and some peculiar to themselves. The ingre- dients should be good and fresh, and contain such substances as have a permanency of odor; otherwise they will lose their perfume very soon after being exposed to the air. Bouquet Sachet. Ground rose leaves . . . 1 pound. " orange flowers . i " " lavender . . . 1 " orange peel . . . \ " " cedar wood . . i " " thyme . . . . \ " " orris root . . . | " " gum benzoin . . . \ " " vanilla . . . | " " rhodium wood . . \ " Let these be ground and sieved, but not too fine, as a coarse powder has the advantage of allowing the air to pass through the mass, and of retaining its odor longer. On finishing the powder a few essen- tial oils dissolved in alcohol can be mixed in. Sachet ait Cypre. (Cypress sachet.) Ground rhodium wood . . 1 pound, cedar wood . . i " santal wood . . . J " " rose leaves A " SACHET POWDERS, ETC. 135 Ground orris root gum benzoin . Oil of rhodium 1 pound. I i ounce. Sachet a la Frangipane. Ground rose leaves santal wood . vitivert root . " orris root " musk pods . Oils of neroli, rose, and santal, each ...'.. This sachet is a general favorite. Heliotrope Sachet. Ground rose leaves . . .1 orris root . . .2 Ton quin beans . . J " vanilla ..''.'. | gum benzoin . . J musk pods . . . \ Oil of rose & " almonds . | I have been accustomed to have each article ground separately, and then when mixed grinding them again all together, as a better means of blending them thoroughly. Geranium Sachet. Ground rose geranium leaves . 1 pound. " orris root . . . 2 " " rhodium wood . i " gum benzoin . . J . ** Oil of rose geranium . . . J ounce. 1 pound. 1 " 1 '2 1 " 1 ounce. 1 drachm. pounds. ' " ounce. drachm. 136 PERFUMERY AND KIXDRED ARTS. Magnolia Sachet. Ground rose leaves orange flowers orris root benzoin . orange peel . Oil of almonds . " cedrat Musk Sachet. Ground rhodium wood orris root vanilla . musk pods benzoin . Millefleur Sachet. Ground orris root lavender flowers . orange flowers rose leaves . benzoin . Ton quin cloves . vanilla . santal . cinnamon Extract of millefleur . New-mown Hay Sachet. Ground rose leaves " orange flowers " orris root " benzoin . 1 pound. u I 1 drachm, 2 1 pound. 2 " i " 2 ounces. 2 " 1J pound. 1 l 2 1 I i i 2 ounces. 2 " 1 pound. SACHET POWDERS, ETC. Ground Tonquin bean " ambrette Oil of almonds . " verbena . Patchouly Sachet. Ground patchouly herb " rhodium " orris root benzoin . Oil of patchouly . " rose . Rose Sachet. Ground rose leaves " orris root rhodium wood santal . " benzoin Otto of rose Brazil wood Verbena Sachet. Ground lemon thyme . lemon peel " orris root Oil of lemon grass " bergamot Violet Sachet. Ground orris root " rhodium wood " rose leaves 137 | pound. l 1 drachm. 2 2 pounds. 1 " i " 1 drachm. 20 drops. 1| pounds. 2 drachms. 1 ounce. 1 pound. 2 " 1 " \ ounce. 1 " 2 pounds. 138 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Ground black currant leaves benzoin musk pods Oil of almonds . West-end Sachet. Ground rose leaves orange flowers " rhodium wood orris root benzoin Oil of neroli " cedrat Pot-Pourri. Bruised lavender flowers lemon thyme " sage . " rose leaves orris root " cloves . cinnamon gum benzoin marjoram Salt \ pound. J_ " 4 | ounce. \ drachm, 1 pound. i " i " i " i " 1 drachm. 2 1 pound. Pot-pourri is a mixture of flowers, herbs, and spices bruised together, and a little salt added under the supposition that it will keep its odor longer. Cassolettes, sometimes called printaniers, are little scent balls, inclosed in handsome perforated boxes made of ivory, gold, or silver, and worn about the person or carried in the reticule. Nearly all of the sachet powders can be made into them by mixing with them a mucilage of gum tragacanth, making SACHET POWDERS, ETC. 139 into balls, and, before they are quite dry, making perforations through them with a large needle. Perfumed beads are much the same as cassolettes, except that they are colored black with ebony wood or ivory black, and, when dry, polished or carved, and strung and worn round the neck. When well made they are very durable. Fumigating pastils are a very useful form of per- fume, having the property of emitting their fragrance when burned ; and they are among the most ancient forms in which perfumes were first used. Pastilles Fumantes. Powdered charcoal . . .2 pounds. u olibanum . . . J " Tonquin . J benzoin . . . J allspice ... | cinnamon . 5 " cloves . . - i " " nitrate of potash . J Mix together and make into a mass with a muci- lage of tragacanth, and by means of a mould or with the fingers make them into cones, about an inch long and not quite half an inch at the base. When dry they can be burned on little ornamented bronze stands to perfume the sick-chamber or other apartments. Santal-wood Pastils. Ground santal wood . . . 1J pounds. " olibanum . . . J " benzoin . ... 1 " saltpetre . J 140 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Ground cassie . . ^ pound. Oil santal 2 drachms. " cloves 2 In most of the burning pastils in which the aro- matic roots, woods, and barks are the principal in- gredients, the smoke of them is so great as to be objectionable, and, when the aromatic odor has evap- orated, leaves an unpleasant burnt odor. To remedy this defect, I will give what I consider a better form for this useful article, in which the volatile substance is evaporated in the air ; and there is little smoke, and that a pleasant one. Fumigating Pastils. Powdered willow charcoal . . 4 pounds. Gum olibanum . . . . \ " " benzoin . . . . | " Oils of lavender, caraway, cloves, cinnamon, thyme, geranium, santal, rhodium, of each . . 2 drachms. Nitrate of potash . . . 2 ounces. The saltpetre is dissolved in the mucilage of traga- canth, then the whole mixed and beaten into a stiff mass, and moulded into cones or cast into figures with tin cutters. CristianVs Pyrosmia (Fumigating Wafers) Are another form of fumigation that is equally con- venient and pleasant, in fact, more handy, being in a more compact form. Take white blotting card un- sized, and moderately thick, and saturate it with a solution of two ounces of saltpetre to one pint of SACHET POWDERS, ETC. 141 rose-water ; when dry coat it with the following mix- ture, applied with a soft, flat brush: Tinctures of olibanum, benzoin, Tolu, vanilla, cascarilla, of each 2 ounces. Oil of rhodium . . . .1 drachm. After being well dried, the cards are cut into squares of about an inch and packed into small tin- boxes, in the lid of each of which is a small opening to admit the corner of the wafer, which, when lighted, burns away rapidly, leaving a very pleasant odor in the apartment. Perfumed Leather. (Peau d'Espange.) Tincture of benzoin . . . \ pint. musk . . .2 ounces. " ambergris . . 2 vanilla . . . 4 " Oil of lavender .... 2 drachms. " santal .... 1 " " neroli .... 1 " bergamot ... .4 This mixture is spread upon thick buckskin with a soft flat brush, and when dry is cut into equal- sized pieces, and enveloped in silk bags or orna- mental paper. This is a very convenient article for scenting letter paper, clothes, chests, etc. etc., and will retain its perfume a great length of time, and will not soil. There are a great many means resorted to for per- fuming apartments. Almost every one is familiar with the odorators made of a rubber bulb with bent tube attached, one end being placed in a bottle of perfume, which latter is ejected in the form of spray 142 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. on exhausting and expanding the bulb. There is also a lamp that is filled with perfumed alcohol, having in the wick a small coil of platinum wire; this lamp is lighted, and allowed to burn until the wire becomes red hot, when it is blown out, when the platinum remains incandescent while there is any alcohol left, and emits the perfume in a slightly altered condition. There is also a device of a lamp generating steam that passes through tubes properly bent, and carries with it the contents of a bottle of essence, and so adding moisture with the perfumes. This is appli- cable to large audiences at concerts, theatres, etc. CHAPTER X. PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN. COSMETICS for the skin are a very important branch , of the perfumer's art, and in the recipes given I shall try and give such ingredients as are harmless, and, at the same time, efficacious. This class of perfumes is very large, and there are so many nostrums adver- tised guaranteed to effect the most marvellous results, that a word of caution should be given to careless people not to use any such preparations, unless they know the ingredients, or have perfect confidence in the persons who prepare them. Unprincipled quacks advertise nostrums that, through ignorance or worse, do much more injury than benefit to that delicate organ, the skin. To prepare cold cream and the emulsions a consid- PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN". 143 erable degree of skill is requisite, as without some practice the novice will find it difficult to get the desired quantity of oil and water to combine with the other ingredients. A little experience and care in the temperature will soon produce success. Arsenical and mercurial preparations I will omit, as they should not be used except by the advice of a medical practitioner. Almond Lotion. Bitter almonds, blanched . . 4 ounces. Orange-flower water , 12 " Curd soap Alcohol, 65 .... 4 Oil of almonds .... 20 drops. " bergamot .... 1 drachm. Dissolve the soap in a water-bath with the orange- flower water, beat up the almonds in a clean marble mortar, gradually adding the soap and water, strain through a clean washed muslin strainer and return to the mortar, and while stirring gradually add the alcohol in which the oils have been dissolved. Amandine. Oil of almonds, sweet . . 2 pounds. Clarified honey . . .3 ounces. "White shaving cream . . 1 " Liquor of potassa, U. S. P. . \ " Oil of almond (essential) . . 1 drachm. " cloves . . . . 1 " " bergamot ... 2 Balsam of Peru 1 " 144 PERFUMERY AND KIXDEED ARTS. Scent the oil of almonds with the essential oils and balsam, mix the honey with the soap and liquor po- tassa in a marble mortar, and while stirring add the oil until it assumes a transparent appearance when put up in China-paste boxes. Cucumber Lotion. Blanched almonds Shaving cream . Oil of benne Expressed juice of cucumbers Alcohol, 65 ... Manipulate as for almond lotion. Camphor Lotion. Spermaceti, white wax, oil of al- monds (sweet), of each Shaving cream . Liquor potassa, U. S. P. . Gum camphor . Blanched almonds Rose-water . Alcohol . Oil of pimento . " bergamot Make like almond lotion. Elder Flower Emulsion. Blanched almonds . Distilled elder-flower water Alcohol, 65 . Shaving cream, white Oil of sweet almonds 4 ounces. * " \ pound. 1| pints. 4 ounces. 2 ounces. 1 1 1 4 1^ pints. 4 ounces, drachm. ounces, pints. u ounce. u PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIX. 145 "White wax . . . \ ounce. Spermaceti. . . . . 1 " Liquor potassa . . 2 drachms. Melt the wax and spermaceti with the oil, soap, and potassa, make the milk as you make that in almond lotion, pouring it into the warm wax, etc., very gradu- ally; lastly add the alcohol, in which are dissolved the camphor and essential oils. If carefully made it will have a uniform milky appearance. Cosmetic Cream of Lilies. (Cristiani's.) Bitter almonds, blanched . . 5 ounces. Orange-flower water, triple . 1| pint. Alcohol I " White wax, spermaceti, oil of benne, shaving cream, of each \ ounce. Oil of neroli . | drachm. " bergamot . . .1 " " cloves . . . . | " Borax \ ounce. This beautiful preparation I consider an improve- ment; for when properly prepared and bottled it will keep sweet for years, and its property of improving the complexion is unsurpassed. Prepare it as di- rected in camphor lotion, dissolving the borax in the orange-flower water slightly warmed. Balsam of Honey. (Baume de Miel.) Spermaceti . . . . .3 ounces. White wax 1 u Oil of benne . . . . 6 " Shaving cream . . . . 2 " Honey 4 " 10 146 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Tincture of ambergris . . \ ounce. Oil of pimento . . . .1 drachm. bergamot . . . . 2 " Melt the sperm, wax, oil, and shaving cream to- gether in a glazed vessel, and add the honey, stirring until nearly cold, when drop in the essential oil, and put in china pots. Glycerine Balm. Glycerine, best .... 4 ounces. Rose-water, triple . . . 12 " Citric acid \ " Oil of almonds . \ drachm, lemon . . . . 1 " Rub up the essential oils and acid, and while stir- ring graduall} 7 " add the glycerine and rose-water. It should be a clear solution, and is an invaluable pre- paration for whitening and softening the skin, remov- ing freckles and discolorations. Lait Virginal. Tincture of benzoin . . . \ ounce. u vanilla . . .2 drachms. Rose-water . . . . . \\ pint. Add the water to the tincture very slowly, to in- sure a perfect milky emulsion that will not precipi- tate. A very fine preparation for whitening and cooling the skin. Cold Cream. (Cristiani's.) Benne oil . . . .12 ounces. Rose-water, triple . . . 8 " Spermaceti . . . . . 4 " White wax 2 " Otto of rose . . . .20 drops. PREPARATIONS TOR THE SKIN. 147 Melt the wax and sperm with the oil in a porcelain vessel, which should not be too shallow. "When melted, place the rose-water where it can run very slowly into the paste; keep stirring until it is tho- roughly mixed, when add the otto of rose ; then put it into porcelain jars for sale. When well made it will keep good for a long time. Cold Cream of Violets. Substitute oil of violets perfumed by enfleurage for the benne oil. Thus you can make the cold cream of orange flowers, jasmine, tuberose, etc. etc., simply by the difference in perfume. Cucumber Cream. Oil of benne . . \ pound. "White wax . . . .' 1 ounce. Spermaceti 2 " Green oil . . . . 1 " Cucumber juice . . . . 6 " Oil of neroli . . . .30 drops. The juice of cucumbers can be obtained from the fruit by expression. When collected it should be heated slightly to coagulate the albumen it con- tains, and strained. Green oil is olive oil impregnated with the flavor of the fruit by several contacts with it. Prepare in the same manner as cold cream. Glycerine Cream. Mutton suet (clarified) . . 8 ounces. Spermaceti 2 " Benne oil 4 Glycerine 2 u Oil of almonds, essential . . 1 drachm. " cedrat . . . . 2 " " cloves \ " 148 PERFUMERY AXD KIN"DRED ARTS. Melt the sperm and suet with the oil, and add the glycerine while cooling, then the perfumes, and put into the jars intended for sale. Camphor Ice, with Glycerine. (Cristiani's.) Paraffine wax . . . . 8 ounces. Sparmaceti . . . . . 4 " Cacao butter . . . . 2 " Castor oil 2 " Benne oil 8 " Camphor 2 " Glycerine . . . . . 2 " Oil of neroli .... 1 drachm. bergamot . . . . 1 " pimento . . . . | 6< " * almonds (essential) . I " Put the camphor with the benne and castor oils, melt with gentle heat, add the wax, butter, and sperm, and when cooling stir in the glycerine, and lastly the perfumes. This is generally moulded into forms with a suitable tin mould, and is a very popular article. Pistuchio Nut Cream or Lotion. Can be made in the same manner as almond lotion, substituting the pistuchio nuts. Aqua Ornatus. (Ornamental water.) Gum benzoin . J ounce. Vanilla J " lihatany root . . . i " Rectified spirits, 60 . . .1 pint. Bruise the ingredients and put in the spirit; mace- rate for a fortnight, when filter. This is a compact PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN. 149 form of lait virginal. A few drops are poured upon a wetted cloth, and the face bathed with it. It is a beautiful and harmless remedy for tan, freckles, pimples, etc. Sulphur Lotion. Sulphuret of potash (new) . . 2 drachms. Tincture of benzoin . . . \ ounce. Glycerine 1 " Rose-water, triple . . . 1 J pint. Dissolve the sulphate of potash with a portion of the rose-water, add the glycerine and gradually the rest of the water. For pimples, freckles, discolora- tion, itch, black heads, etc. Though not a pleasant smelling preparation, it is yet quite efficacious. Eulcesis, or Essence of Soap. Shaving cream . ... 6 ounces. Liquor potassa (U.S.P.) . . 2 drachms. Oil of almond (sweet) . . | ounce. Alcohol, 60 .... 1 pint. Oil of almond (essential) . . 1 drachm. " bergamot . . . . *2 " " pimento . . . I " This is a very pleasant and convenient preparation for shaving, and is usually put in tubes of tinfoil, and when wanted a portion is squeezed out on the face, and a lather is easily made with the brush. JEJmil Blanc. (White enamel.) Lavigated talc .... 3 ounces. Glycerine 2 " Rose-water, triple . . . 1 J pint. 150 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. The talc should be exceedingly fine, and be tritu- rated with the glycerine in a wedgewood mortar, and the rose-water gradually added. This is a pleasant and harmless article. Similar preparations are made with the oxide of bismuth, zinc, or lead, that are not so innocent, and as it is the object of this work not to give pernicious recipes, all formulas given can be employed with confidence. Pomade Divine. Lard ...... J pound. Almond oil . . . 1 " Spermaceti . . . . i " Gum benzoin, powdered . . \ " Oil of bergamot . . .1 drachm. " cloves . . . . I " Melt in a water-bath and add the benzoin in fine powder and the perfume before it stiffen s. This pre- paration has had a great name, and is pleasant, safe, and healing. Camphor Balls. Mutton suet . . . .12 ounces. "White wax 4 " Camphor 2 " Oil of lavender .... 2 drachms. Melt the camphor in a small portion of the suet ; add the wax and balance of suet. It is moulded into cakes, and used for softening the skin, chafes, chapped hands, etc. etc. PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN. 151 Rose Lip Salve. Spermaceti . . . . .4 ounces. White wax 2 Oil of beniie . . . . 6 " Castor oil 2 " Otto of rose ... . \ drachm. Vermilion . . . . . 1 " Rouge vegetal . . . . 2 " Melt carefully, and when creamy put into small metal, porcelain, or rose-wood boxes. Blanc de Perle (Pearl white) Is levigated talc mixed with a little almond oil and mucilage of gum tragacanth, and spread upon porce- lain disks for convenient use. ROUGES AND PAINTS FOR THE FACE. Rouges and paints for the face and eyebrows, etc., come under the head of cosmetics, and are usually harmless when made of carmine or safflowers, but not so when the aniline colors are used, as they are apt to contain mineral poisons. Bloom of Roses. (Liquid Rouge.) Carmine, No. 40 ... 2 drachms. Aqua ammonia, FFF. . . | ounce. Alcohol, 60 .... 2 " Gum Arabic . . . . | " Rose-water, triple . . .1 pint. Otto of roses . . . .10 drops. Rub the carmine and gum with the aqua ammonia in a porcelain mortar, and a portion of the rose-water, when dissolved add the alcohol slowly and the bal- 152 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. ance of the rose-water. The perfume to be dissolved in the alcohol. Lastly strain. Vinaigre de Rouge. Carmine, No. 40 . . . . | ounce. Aqua ammonia . . . . 1 " Extract of rose, No. 2 . . 2 " Acetic acid . . . 1 " Rose-water . . . . .4 pints. Mix the carmine with the ammonia in a mortar ; add the extract, then the acid; lastly, and by degrees, the rose-water. Rouge de Theatre Is the carthamus rouge (rouge vegetal) mixed with a few drops of almond oil, and with mucilage of gum tragacanth, and spread upon porcelain disks, conve- nient for use. Crepon Rouge Is cotton saturated with solution of carmine or carthamus and dried. CJiinese Card Rouge Is an unsized paper saturated with carthamus, which when dried assumes a bronze hue. Pink Saucers, So long used, consist of the same solution of cartha- mus or carmine evaporated to a creamy consistence and spread upon saucers. Lily White or Pearl Powder., So much used in this country, is generally a mixture of Paris white and kaolin, and formed into cakes and PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN. 153 put in fancy boxes. A finer article is made with a mixture of powdered talc and corn starch held to- gether with mucilage. The name of pearl powder has heretofore been applied to the oxide of bismuth, but it is not much used at the present time. Violet Toilet Powder. Corn starch . . . .10 pounds. Ambrette seed . . . . 1 " Orris root in powder . . . 1 " Tincture of musk . . .2 drachms. This is a favorite and perfectly harmless powder, much used for the chafing of infants ; it is prepared by keeping the starch in contact with the ambrettc seed for about a month, sieving the latter out and adding the orris and tincture. Rose Toilet Powder. Corn or potato starch . . .12 pounds. Powdered orris root . . . \ " Oil of santal . . . .1 drachm. " rose | " Tincture of civet . . . 1 " This is simply mixed and sieved and put into boxes or wrappers. Starch powders are the safest and most useful of all toilet powders, as they absorb all excess of moisture, and remedy redness and gloss on the face, besides being indispensable for chafes in infants. Poudre de Eiz. Rice powder is now much used and is perfumed in the same manner as the starch powders. 154 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Lycopodium Powder. (Club-moss powder.) Lycopodium .... 1 pound. Rose or violet toilet powder .2 " Club-moss powder is- invaluable as an absorbent, and for excoriated surfaces in infants, etc. Cosmetic Almond Powder. Sweet almonds, blanched . . 1 pound. Potato starch . . . . 3 " Powdered orris root . . . \ " White curd soap . . . J " Carbonate of soda . . .1 ounce. Oil of bergamot . . .2 drachms. almonds, essential . . 1 " " cloves . . . . 1 " First grind the almonds ; add the starch, then the soap (previously dried and powdered), and the soda; re-sieve to blend the whole together ; lastly, add the perfume. Used as a soap powder, and has a fine effect in whitening and softening the skin. Sulphuretted Toilet Powder. Lac sulphur .... 4 ounces. Powdered talc . . . . 3 " Corn starch . . . . 3 " Paris white . . . . 4 " Benne oil . . . . .2 ounces. Tincture of orris . . . 1 u " ambrette . . . \ " Mix thoroughly by sieving all together ; make into a ma*ss with pure water, and mould into a tablet suited to the box it is intended for. Sulphur is the safest of all mineral substances intended for the skin. Be careful not to use the ordinary flower of sulphur, PREPARATIONS FOR THE SKIN. 155 as it is apt to have some free sulphuric acid in it, and will injure and irritate the skin. This powder will be found useful in almost all cutaneous eruptions. Meen Fun (Chinese skin powder) Is a sort of magnesian earth in impalpable powder, very absorbent to all the secretions of the skin. Cosmetic Gloves. Cosmetic gloves are sometimes wanted as a remedy for rough and chapped hands ; gloves of cheap leather are coated with some such cosmetic creams as we have given the recipes for, but I will add a French formula for chaps and chilblains, etc., as follows : Glove Cosmetic. Mutton suet .... 2 ounces. Spermaceti . . . . . 1 " Powdered benzoin . . . \ " Yolk of two eggs. Peru balsam . . 1 drachm. "White curd soap . . . \ ounce. Olive oil 2| " Otto of roses . . . .20 drops. If this mixture is spread upon the inside of the glove, and worn several nights, the hands will be found to be soft and white. Glycerine Jelly for the Skin. Almond oil .... 8 ounces. White curd soap . . . 1 " Pure glycerine . . . . 2 " Oil of bergamot . . . 1 drachm, cloves . . . . I " thyme . . . . \ " 156 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Dissolve the soap in the oil in a water-bath, and add the glycerine and perfumes. Used as a cosmetic for softening the hands, and is applied in small quan- tities after washing the hands, and while they are still moist. Lip Balm. Mutton snet . . .2 ounces. Cacoa hutter . . . . 1 " Almond oil . . . . 2 " Glycerine . . . . . 1. " Powdered borax . ... 2 drachms. Oil of pimento . . . .20 drops. " neroli . . . . 20 " Powdered benzoin . . .1 drachm. Color the oil with a little alkanet-root, and mix by melting all together, adding the perfume before quite cold. Fard Bleu. Starch . . . . .2 ounces. Talc 1 " Oil 2 drachms. Mucilage . . . . . q. s. Ultramarine blue . . .3 drachms. Make into small tablets, for marking the blue veins on the temples or elsewhere. flard Noir. Make as above, using a little soap and ivory black, and rolling into spills or pencils. Used to darken the eyebrows. TOMADES AND COSMETICS. 157 CHAPTER XI. POMADES AND COSMETICS. IN the preparation of pomades and cosmetics great care must be exercised in selecting and compound- ing the ingredients, which should be fresh and de- prived of all impurities or disagreeable smells, or they will be unfit for the purpose. The perfumer uses for pomades tallow, suet, veal fat, lard, and wax. All of these greases contain albumen and membrane, which should he removed before using, as they tend to make them turn rancid in a very short time. The process of washing greases in a small way is per- formed in this manner. About fifty pounds of lard or suet are put into a clean vessel, which is put inside a larger vessel of water, in which a pound or two of salt is dissolved (a marine bath), or a steam jacket if at hand. The grease is melted with two ounces of powdered alum, and then three ounces of table salt, and the heat is continued until all scum has risen, and is skimmed off, when it is allowed to cool. The grease has then to be washed with water to remove all alum and salt. This is done in two ways: first, the grease is again melted, and two quarts of pure water are added, and allowed to boil slowly, when the steam carries off all the smell ; the alum and salt being deposited at the bottom with the water. In the second process the grease is put in portions on a slab of slate a little inclined, and rubbed with a stone muller, while a stream of clean water pours 158 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. gently over the grease while being rubbed, just as a painter grinds his colors. "When finished it is re- melted to deposit all remaining water. This is rather a tedious process, and, when the material is wanted in quantity, the perfumer can avail himself of machinery invented for the purpose. For the purpose of having system, perfumers divide their grease into hard and soft body. The first is generally two parts of lard and one of suet or tallow, the latter is five parts of lard and one of tallow, and may be improved' by the addition to each five pounds of an ounce of powdered gum benzoin. In the flower- growing countries of France and Italy, whence we procure the fine pomades of flowers, the purification of grease bodies is of sufficient importance to be made a separate trade, and if the perfumer here has a large demand for pomades, a stock of those pre- pared greases should be kept on hand, as they enter in different proportions into all of them. The stock of pomades is not complete without an assortment of the prepared greases or bodies of ben- zoin, vanilla, balsams of Tolu and Peru, etc. etc. ; ready for mixing with the different pomades for the hair. Benzoin Pomade (or body). Hard body 10 pounds. Powdered gum benzoin . . 1 " Melt in a water-bath for twelve hours and strain. Tonquin Pomade. Hard body . . . . .10 pounds. Tonquin beans in coarse powder 1 " Let them macerate some days, melting occasionally, and then strain. POMADES AND COSMETICS. 159 Vanilla Pomade. Vanilla beans, cut very fine . \ pound. Hard body 10 " Melt and stir once a day for ten days, when strain. And thus you can make ambrette pomade, using 2 pounds of musk-seed to 10 pounds of body; or musk pomade, using 2 ounces to the 10 pounds ; and orris pomade, taking 2 pounds to the 10 of grease ; amber- gris pomade, 2 ounces to the 10 pounds ; etc. etc. They must all be melted several times before all the perfume will be extracted from the substance. It is also necessary to have on hand coloring body for the different pomades, as red, yellow, green, etc. Yellow Body. Roco or anatto-seed . . .1 pound. Hard body 6 " Although the coloring matter is on the surface of the seed, it penetrates somewhat below, and there- fore it is best to have the seed coarsely ground ; keep it melted several -hours in a water-bath, when strain and keep in a cool place for use. Bed Body. Carmine . . . . .2 ounces. Vermilion . . . . . 4 " Hard body 4 pounds. * Green Body. Spinach leaves . . . 2 pounds. Hard body 4 " 160 PERFUMERY AXD KIXDRED ARTS. Put in a water-bath and macerate until the leaves have lost their color. After straining again melt and set aside quietly, that the water of the leaves may go to the bottom. Green of an inferior color can be made with powdered gum guaiacum melted with the grease. I have made frequent mention of the flower po- mades which we have to procure from the south of France and other neighboring places, and also the manner of their preparation. They are, of course, indispensable for making the finest goods. Although all the pomades from which most of the odors have been extracted by means of alcohol can be used, the alcohol, however, tends to hasten rancidity, but can be extracted by pressing through leather, or by melt- ing with a small portion of water ; the alcohol, having a greater affinity for the water, will join it and fall to the bottom when the melted pomade is set quietly by. Pomade d? Acacia. (Cassie pomade.) Cassie pomade . ... 1 pound. Hard body f " Green " | " Oil of cedrat . J ounce. " almonds (essential) . . 1 drachm, cloves . . . . 1 " This is a pleasant pomade of greenish-yellow hue. It may be necessary to mention that the perfumes are not added until the pomade is nearly cold, and also that it should not be filled into bottles until it is chilled into a thick creamy consistence ; and again, that the bottles be not too cold, as they cool the po- made too suddenly, and cause it to shrink from the glass and have an uneven appearance. POMADES AXD COSMETICS. 161 Pomade Balsamiqiie. Benzoin pomade or body . . 1 pound. Vanilla " " . J " Tuberose " . . . | " Hard body 1J << This pomade can be colored a light-brown with a few drops of caramel. Bear's Grease Pomade. Soft body . . . . . 1| pound. Jasmine pomade . . . I " Oil of bergamot . . . I " " cloves . ... 1 drachm.. The genuine bear's grease that has had so great a reputation for promoting the growth of the hair, and is still much favored, is difficult to procure in quanti- ties, and if gotten would soon get rancid and unfit for use, and we, therefore, prepare a substitute which is rather an improvement on the genuine article. Benzoin Pomade. Benzoin body . ... 2 pounds. Oil of pimento ... . | drachm. " orange . . . . 2 " neroli . . . . | " Pomade au Beurre de Cacao. Soft body 1 \ pounds. Cocoa-butter . . . \ " Oil of bergamot . \ ounce. " thyme . ... 1 drachm. " cassia . . . . \ " Color with gamboge. 11 162 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Castor-oil and Qlycerine Pomade. Hard body .... Castor oil . Vanilla oil . . Oil of bergamot . " cloves " neroli Grum gamboge to color. Cowslip) Pomade. Hard body .... Jasmine pomade . Oil of bergamot . " cloves " petit-grain Tincture of ambergris 1| pounds, ounce. 1 drachm. 1| pound. i " 2 drachms. 1 drachm. 1 '2 1 " Crystalline Pomade. Benne oil 1 J pound. Castor oil . . .* . i u Paraffine wax . . . J " Oil of bergamot . . . | ounce. " thyme . . . 1 drachm. " cloves . . . . 1 " Color with gamboge. I will here take occasion to say that the hard re- fined paraffine wax is for the uses of the perfumer supe- rior to all other waxes, especially when a semi-trans- parent appearance is wanted. This pomade is of a very pleasing transparent appearance, and a good hair dressing. POMADES AND COSMETICS. 103 Crystal Pomade. Castor oil 2 pounds. Alcohol, 95 .... 1 " Curd soap i " Dry the soap, first reducing it to shavings, when put into a clean tin vessel with the alcohol, and dis- solve by the heat of a water-bath ; warm the oil to about the same heat, and add to the soap and alcohol, and it is finished. Perfume with oil bergamot, lemon- grass, and cloves ; see also that the bottles it is put into are warm. The result is a perfectly transparent pomade. Geranium Pomade. Soft body 1J pounds. Tolu body or pomade . . | " Oil of rose geranium . . . \ ounce. Color with yellow body. Heliotrope Pomade. Hard body i pound. Rose pomade . . . . | " Orris pomade . . . i " Vanilla pomade . . . . \ " Tuberose pomade . . i " Oil neroli . . . .1 drachm. " almonds . . . . J " Color light brown, if it is not of the proper shade. This is, of course, an imitation, but quite as delicate and pleasant as if it were made from the genuine flowers. 164 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Pomade a la Jacinth. (Hyacinth pomade.) Hard body . . . . .1 pound. Tuberose pomade . . . | " Jasmine " . | " Oil of cedrat .... 2 drachms. " cloves . . . 1 " " almonds . . . . 1 " Color with tincture of archil a light purple. Pomade au Jasmin. Jasmine pomade Hard body .... "Vanilla body Oil of rhodium . Color light yellow. Jonquille Pomade. Jonquille pomade Jasmine Hard body .... Tolu " ' . Oil bergamot Color yellow with yellow body. Lavender Pomade. Hard body .... Cassie pomade . Oil of lavender (best) rosemary . " cloves Color light green. 1 pound. 3 U 4- i " 1 drachm. \ pound. 2 drachms, pound. 1 ounce. i ( 2 1 drachm, POMADES AND COSMETICS. 165 As a matter of course it would not be necessary to make an imitation of a flower pomade if the fresh flowers could readily be procured, and we had all the apparatus to conduct the enfleurage, but not having such means, we have to use the best we have, and to exercise our skill in an imitation. Limette Pomade. Hard body .... Tuberose pomade Oil of limette u a lemon-grass cloves Color green. Mayflower Pomade. Hard body .... Tuberose pomade Eose Cassie " Tonquin Color yellow. Macassar Pomade. Hard body .... Castor oil . Ambergris pomade Oil of nutmegs . cinnamon . " rosemary . thyme rose .... Color light red with red body. \\ pound. 1 2 | ounce. i " 4 1 drachm. 1 pound, 1J pound. l i i " " drachm. u I 30 drops. 166 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Marrow Pomade. Soft body . . . . . 1J pound. Mace body or pomade . i " Benzoin body . . . J " Oil bergamot . . . i " " lemon . . . .' . | " " cloves . . . . i " Color deep yellow. This pomade is generally stirred very briskly while cooling with a stirrer like an egg-beater to fill it with particles of air, making it light and spongy. This operation gives a peculiar appearance to pomades, and can be done to all such as may be thought proper. Mille-fleur Pomade. Rose pomade . \ pound. Violet . . . . J " . Orange-flower pomade . . \ " Benzoin " . I " Musk . I " Color brown with caramel. Musk Pomade. Rose pomade . J pound. Hard body f Ambergris pomade . . . J " Musk ' " . . . " Color brown with caramel. Myrtle Blossom Pomadb. Hard body . . . . .1 pound. Jasmine pomade . . i " Orange-flower pomade . . J " Vanilla i " Color light yellow. POMADES AND COSMETICS. 167 .[/ Narcissus Pomade. Hard body .... Jasmine pomade Cassie Rose Vanilla " Oil of almonds (essential) . Color light yellow. Neroli Pomade. Hard body .... Orange-flower pomade Ambrette " Oil of neroli (bigarade) petit-grain Color light yellow. Orange-flower Pomade. Hard body .... Orange-flower pomade Tolu " Oil of Portugal . " cloves Color yellow. Oriental Cream. Soft bod/ .... Rose pomade ^. Benzoin " ... Toiiquin " ... Musk "... Oil of santal " rose . f pound. 1 drachm 1J pound. 2 drachms. 1 " 1J pound. I '2 i " 1 ounce. i " 1 pound. i " i " 1 drachm, 168 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. P alma- Rosa Pomade. Soft body .... Rose pomade Cassie " ... Benzoin " ... Mace " . . Oil of ginger-grass . " cloves Color yellowish-green. PJiilocome Pomade. Purified lard Beeswax .... Cassie oil (from flowers) . Rose oil " " Tuberose oil " " Mace pomade Color pink or yellow. Primrose Pomade. Soft body .... Cassie pomade . Eose "... Vanilla "... Benzoin "... Oil of petit-grain lemon almonds, (essential) Color bright yellow. 1 pound 1 2 drachms. 1 1 pound. ounces. u 1 pound. 1 drachm. 2 " 1 POMADES AND COSMETICS. 169 Quinine Pomade. (Tonic pomade.) Soft body . . . . . 1| pound. .Rose pomade ... . J Vanilla oil.. . . . . } " Sulphate of quinine . . . \ ounce. Oil of bergamot . . . . J " " cloves . . I " Color light yellow. Rub up the quinine in a wedge wood mortar with a few drops of aromatic sulphuric acid ; add the va- nilla oil, and put into the pomade melted by means of water-bath, and stir till cold. Pomade Romaine. Roman pomades are of softer bodies than pomades in general, or between pomades and oils ; are much liked by many people, and are easily made by a judi- cious mixture of the pomades and antique oils, and can be made of any odor of the preceding kinds. I will give an example. Pomade Romaine a la Ambrosie. Soft body . . . . .1 pound. Vanilla oil | " Musk oil | " Cassie oil (from flowers) . . ^ " Oil of bergamot . . 1 ounce. " cloves . . . . | " roses .... | drachm. Mix with the least possible heat, color light brown, and you have a very pleasant hair-dressing of deli- cate fragrance. 170 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. JZondelatia Pomade. Hard body .... Cassie pomade . Rose "... Tonquin "... Oil of lavender (best) " bergamot . " cloves Color pale yellow. Pomade a la jftose. Soft body .... Yanilla body Rose pomade Tuberose pomade Oil of santal " rhodium . Color deep red. Pomade a la Sultane. Soft body .... Heliotrope pomade Tuberose " Jasmine " Ton quin Tincture of musk Oil of pimento . cedrat Color light brown. J pound. i \ ounce. j " 1 pound. i " 1 drachm, 1 " 1 pound. . i 1 drachm. 1 \ ounce. POMADES AND COSMETICS. 171 Tuberose Pomade. Soft body . Tuberose pomade 1 Rose " Benzoin Oil of cedrat " almonds (essential) . Color bright yellow. Vanilla Pomade. Soft body . Vanilla body Rose pomade Ambergris body Oil of rhodium . Color deep yellow. Verbena Pomade. Hard body . Cassie pomade . Benzoin "... Oil of lemon-grass " lemon " cloves Color light green. Violet Pomade. Soft body . Violet pomade . Cassie " Civet " Oil of rose . " almonds . Color light green. No. 1. 1 pound. i " 1 4 2 drachms. 1 1 pound. l " 4 1 " 4 2 drachms. J pound, i 4 | ounce, j, 1 drachm, f pound. 5. 4< J. KIXDRED ARTS. he will need to have an iron vat, square or cylindrical, of the capacity of about 150 gallons, or sufficient to dissolve a drum of caustic soda of about 500 pounds, which is broken up into as small lumps as possible, and put in the vat with about 75 gallons of water, when steam is let on through a pipe reaching to within a few inches of the bottom, and the contents frequently stirred, and when in the course of a few hours the alkali is melted, put in 50 pounds of fresh-burnt lime in as small pieces as possible, and by degrees. Con- tinue the steam some time longer, while the lime is dissolving and being thoroughly incorporated, when turn off the steam, cover the tank, and allow it to rest a day or more to let the lime precipitate to the bottom. When the lye has become clear proceed to test the strength of the solution, which is done by a Baume hydrometer (see Fig. 13). If you want it for cold soap you will have to evaporate it by steam or fire in an- other vessel, to 36 Baume ; while for boiled soap you require weaker lyes of various strengths. Potash lye is prepared in very much the same manner, but as the manufacturer will not be likely to want it in the same quantities that he does the soda, a small iron pan can be used, say 50 gallons capacity, suffi- cient for one or two hundred pounds of the alkali, which is treated in the same manner, a little more lime being needed, as commercial potash, or still better, pearl-ash has more carbonic acid. As it is impossible to procure alkalies in a state of purity, it will be necessary to study some of the elements of alkalimetry, and have suitable instruments for test- ing the amount of caustic lye his salts contain. Though generally if he procures his alkali of a well- known brand or maker, the quality is likely to be uni- TOILET SOAPS. 247 form, and with the hydrometer and thermometer he can arrive at a sufficient knowledge of its strength and purity by simple tests and calculations. Having his alkalies provided, and deciding to make his soaps by boiling, it will be necessary to have a large kettle set in masonry, with furnace underneath, or a steam jacket, which is a double kettle with space between for the steam to circulate (see Fig. 17). Frames to put the finished soap into are generally made of wood, in sections placed one upon the other, and fastened with an iron clamp, the whole forming a sort of oblong square well ; when the soap sets or becomes hard, a section is lifted off and cut off with fine brass wire, which section is again cut transversely in bars or wedges. (See illustrations of tools for making soap, pp. 253 et seq.) The different oils and greases used seem to require almost as man^ different modes of working, as tallow will make a certain kind of soap and olive oil another, yet the process may be considered the same slightly modified to suit the several conditions, and in this lies the art of making soaps properly, for, as I have already remarked, soap is a chemical compound, and the more scientifically it is prepared the better should be the product. The writers on toilet soaps seem to have had more theory than practice in their ar.t, for they tell you to make a soap of tallow and soda, called curd soap, or a soap from lard, etc. etc. ; tallow or curd soap is white when new, losing its white color as it acquires age, and becoming so hard as to be almost insoluble o / o in water. Many of you have no doubt found in travelling, a small waxy mass on the washstands of the hotels, that was so hard and stubborn that the 248 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. utmost coaxing could not raise a lather 5 and it was no doubt economical, as it lasted a long time, each traveller in turn doing his best to make it of service. This was curd or tallow soap, and a soap made en- tirely of lard, though not so hard, yet has very little lathering property. It seems singular that there is no one oil or grease used in soap that makes as good a soap as when modified with some other substance having a slightly different property, and is not very much improved thereby. So with the soaps made of olive oil, the celebrated castile soaps, they are found to acquire great hard- ness when made of the pure oil, and, therefore, they now have at least ten per cent, of rape-seed oil com- bined with them to qualify that tendency. The rape- seed oil, being a drying oil, makes a softer soap, like all drying oils, and tends to keep the castile soap of a more plastic consistence. In some ^districts where barilla is used, the soap is plastic without the addi- tion of rape-seed oil, which is due to having a por- tion of potash in it, which has the desired property of making a softer and more soluble soap. Cocoa-nut oil makes a peculiar soap, very much esteemed in Europe, though the effect of saponifying it is to produce a very unpleasant rancid smell, which does not leave it in spite of all perfumes added to cover it. This soap has the property of holding in suspension a large quantity of water, 60 or 70 per cent., and which causes a copious lather ; it also has the property of washing with sea-water, which gains it the name of marine soap. This oil enters into all the German recipes for toilet soap, but does not im- prove their quality, though it gives them a semi- transparent, waxy appearance, very pleasing to the TOILET SOAPS. 249 eye. The French also use it, but sparingly, in many of their soaps, but chiefly for its emollient property, which is very advantageous, particularly in shaving soap. Cocoa-nut oil, though perfectly pure and sweet when used, acquires this disagreeable odor upon saponification by the formation of caprylic acid, which when not in great quantity can be partially disguised by strong perfumes. Resin or rosin, so largely used in soaps, will not by itself form a soap, through its insolubility in alkali, but requires the addition of greases, or rather, as it is the least in quantity, it may be said to be added to the fats, or, correctly speaking, to the soap, for it is generally put in with the last lye, after the soap has been well boiled and nearly complete, and then put in but a small proportion to the amount of fats used a quarter or at most a third of the amount. Rosin is not much used for soaps for the toilet ; in fact, it is difficult to introduce it into soaps made by the cold process, as many of these soaps are made ; and when it is required, as it sometimes is, it is combined by means of the mill, by using a part of boiled rosin soap and other soaps made cold. Palm oil is one of the most useful fats for toilet soap, its constituents being oleine and palmitine ; its natural pleasant smell is an advantage, as it resem- bles the smell of violets ; it has a great deal of yel- low coloring matter, which is sometimes available, though it has to be in a great measure destroyed before or during saponification. This bleaching is done in several ways, either by exposure to the air or by means of chemicals ; in the first method, the melted oil has pipes inserted into it and air blown through it. "Whatever unpleasant odors arise are carried into 250 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. the chimney above the pan by means of a funnel in- verted over the pan. Of the chemical processes for bleaching, several methods are employed, though I think that the use of chromate of potash is the sim- plest. To each 100 pounds of the oil half a pound of chromate of potash, dissolved in a quart of warm water, is stirred into the melted oil for an hour, using a crutch or paddle filled with holes for the better means of rapid mixing, when the oil is allowed to rest; and the coloring matter is deposited, or at least sufficient of it to render the soap made of it a natural fawn color, and avoid the disagreeable yellow color; this when in excess is very objectionable to the soap. Lard, as I have said, makes a very beautiful soap, similar to olive oil, the constituents being identical, though derived from such different sources. Castor oil also makes a fine soap; as also does benne oil ; and ground-nut oil is also a very good soap material, though by itself it is almost too soft for general use. Cotton-seed oil, now used for a great many purposes, has few equals as an article for soap. A great deal of this oil is now made in the Southern and "Western States, and, when properly refined, is exceedingly useful. Combined with lard, tallow, palm oil, etc., it forms a fine basis for toilet soaps, and has the great advantage of economy, as the price is usually much lower than any other material. Veal fat is exceedingly useful to the perfumer; the toilet soap made of it has great whiteness and fine emollient properties. Mutton fat, being rich in stearine, is a useful addition to many soaps, supplying a hardness often needed in other materials, though by itself and TOILET SOAPS. 251 with soda it becomes too hard, and turns yellow with age. From my experience, it seems that there are few oils or greases that will by themselves give as good a soap as when other oils or greases are com- bined with them to alter or improve their qualities. There are other fats and oils that can be used in soap, though often difficult to procure, as hemp-seed oil, poppy oil, mustard oil, sunflower-seed oil, rape- seed oil, butter of cocoa, etc. etc., all of which could be used with advantage, provided they could be pur- chased at a price that would make an economical soap, or that by experiment would yield a soap of superior quality. Besides the alkalies and oils and greases the toilet- soap maker requires a number of other chemicals, drugs, etc., such as sulphuric, nitric, and muriatic acids, sulphate of iron, chromate of potash, oxide of manganese, sulphate of soda, chloride of soda or common salt, etc., besides a supply of materials for coloring ; for red he requires vermilion, cudbear, and some kinds of aniline red ; for yellow, anatto, gam- boge, and aniline; for blue, ultramarine and indigo; and for brown, umber, cutch, sienna, caramel, etc. The other shades can all be made by an admixture of these, as green is yellow and blue, purple is red 1 and blue, etc. etc. But generally the least coloring mat- ter in a soap the better your customers will like it, though to please the eye, and to assimilate the soap to its name, a certain portion of color seems neces- sary, but people of intelligence avoid all soaps known to contain color, for they imagine that color is added to cover some sophistication. Therefore, let the maker of good toilet soaps endeavor to get the purest 252 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. materials, and observe much neatness and cleanliness in the details, so that his products may be known to be, as they appear, perfectly pure. Of the perfumes required for scenting soaps, it is needless to speak here, as they have nearly all been described, being the same as are used in the other branches of the perfumery business, though many can be used in soaps that are almost useless for other purposes. This will be seen when I give the differ- ent formulas, though I might here remark that nearly all the spice and herb oils can be used as soap per- fumes, while the citron oils are not so economical, the alkali somewhat impairing their fragrance. The French manufacturer makes the finest soaps from the flo\ver pomades, that they may have the delicate odor of the flowers, but of course such soaps have to be made by the cold process, as the greater heat of boil- ing would destroy all their delicate odors; they also resort to the use of the mucilage of gum tragacanth to impart emolliency and solubility to their soap, which addition is a great benefit to fine soaps for toilet purposes. Gum tragacanth is a very useful article in many trades, and is often used by the per- fumer in several preparations. For soap, a few ounces are soaked overnight in water or perfumed water, stirred until dissolved, strained and added to the soap before finishing, or combined with the soap and colors in milling. It is hardly necessary to speak of the many sub- stances that are used and can be used in the adulter- ation of soap, for it is not well for the toilet soap- maker to employ such sophistication in his soaps, for he must endeavor to make the best article possi- ble, and try to excel all others in quality and style, TOILET SOAPS. 253 and avoid all adulterations that would injure his pro- ducts and his reputation. On the contrary, let him take such pride in his art as to emulate the highest in it, and not by the use of adulterations destroy the character of this product, and bring all perfumed soaps into disrepute, but let him persevere in the good qualities of his manufactures, and he will eventually profit by it. I will here illustrate the most important imple- ments and machinery needed in the art of making toilet soap. The siphon should be of half-inch lead pipe, and may be made after Coffee's pattern, for moderate volumes of liquid, as it possesses many advantages over the usual forms in delivering the liquid without any inconvenience to the operator. It is shown by Fig. 14. Fig. 13. Bailing's hydrometer for alkalies. Siphon for lye, etc. Fig. 14, and consists of a bent tube, one leg of which is longer than the other, and a smaller lateral tube B, 254: PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. capped with a large, hollow India rubber ball A. The long leg has also a stopcock near its lower end. It is put in operation by closing the cock, compress- ing the bag, and quickly immersing the short leg in the clear lye, to within an inch or less of the subsi- dent carbonate of lime, as represented in the drawing- The act of compressing the ball produces diminution of the elastic force of the internal air by expelling the most of it, so that as soon as the hand is removed from the ball, the outward pressure of the air drives the liquid up to the highest point of the bend, whence it drops" by the force of gravitation, on the opening of the cock, and flows out in a continuous stream, as long as the mouth of the short leg is covered by it. Large tuns lined with sheet lead, and with cul- lendered false bottoms, Fig. 15, are perhaps the best Fig. 15. Vat for lye. and most durable fixture of this kind that could be put up. In this case there is a cock fitted near the bottom of each tun, and through it the clear lye collecting in the lower part of the vat, between the TOILET SOAPS. 255 diaphragm and the bottom, can be drawn off into tubs below, for use as may be wanted. Close by these vats there must be a pump or hydrant, with its outlet spout conveniently arranged for a supply of water, in quantity as required. Fig. 16 shows a kettle. Should there be several, they are placed on a line with each other, and over Fie. 16. Soap kettle with fire hole. a furnace beneath. To the caldron a tube of about two inches diameter is adapted, which serves as an outlet for the waste lye which remains under the boiled paste. At the mouth of the furnace is an arcade; and at the bottom of this vault iron bars are placed as supports for the fuel which is to heat the caldron. The arrangement of the masonry work is generally, however, left to the skill and ingenuity of the bricklayer. These soap pans or caldrons are cast with a flange at their top, so that, when neces- sary, an adjunct cylinder of wood, in the shape of a cone, may be fastened to them. A (Fig. 17) is the interior of the cast-iron kettle, surrounded by brickwork. B is the outer cast-iron caldron, which should fit to the inner kettle tightly, so as to prevent any escape of steam. D D is the tube 256 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. leading from the steam boiler, and conveying the steam to the kettles. It is fitted with a cock, which is opened or shut, according as the steam is to be let Fig. 17. T~M I ..I. TIT i i ' i >^r5" 1 i .. i TTV- t . to. i J I i i Steam kettle or jacket. on or off, for accelerating or retarding the boiling of the soap. C C is the tube by which the condensed vapor is discharged. The cock in this tube can be left slightly open so as to operate as a safety-valve, when one of these necessary appendages is not affixed to the apparatus. The tube E is the discharge-pipe of the caldron. In this countiy, frames are made of pine wood, for light-colored and fine soaps. The iron frames need not exceed half an inch in thickness; but those of wood should be made of two-inch stuff. The shape is that of a parallelogram, as shown by the drawings ; and the dimensions of the opposite sides and ends are respectively 36 and 12 to 15 inches. They should be about 36 inches deep, and smoothly jointed, so that when they are placed on top of each other in piles of three, four, or five (Fig. 18), they TOILET SOAPS. 257 may form a water-tight well, which will hold the hot paste without leaking. The iron are of the same Fig. 18. form as the wooden frames ; hut differ in size. The sides are of wrought-iron plate, and the remaining portions of cast iron. Fig. 18 presents a side view, Fig. 20 the bottom, and Fig. 19 a top view of them; Fig. 19. Fijr. 20. and the clamp, which fits on the ends, and which holds them together, is shown by a. They are drawn to a scale of three-eighths of an inch to a foot. Being mounted on wheels, these frames can readily be moved from place to place. The good 17 258 PERFUMERY AXD KIXDRED ARTS. conducting power of the metal promotes the cooling and solidifying of the soap paste. The wooden frames are lifted off, one at a time, Fig. 21. and the soap remains upon the movable bottom ready to be divided into bars, as shown by Fig. 21. Fig. 22, 1, shows the well of five frames, ready for receiv- ing the soap paste. The bottom of the well and a single frame are severally presented in Fig. 22, 3 and 2. Fig. 22. Frames for soap. The German frames, like those of this country, are also constructed so that they may easily be separated into pieces, being set up by nuts and screws, as shown in Figs. 23 and 24. Their floor is also movable ; and TOILET SOAPS. Fig. 23. Fig. 24. 259 is shown in longitudinal section by Fig. 25, and in breadth by Fig. 26. It consists of two layers of deal boards, in the upper of which are four grooves, fit- ting with the projections in the sides. The two Fig. 25. Fig. 26. narrow sides are also supported on the inside by cross-pieces. All the sides are strengthened by supports. "When the several parts are put together, the bolts, screw cut at the other end, have only to be inserted through the projecting parts of the longer sides, and made fast by the nuts at the ends, to form the whole into a solid box. A cloth spread over the bottom prevents any soap from passing the holes, Fig. 27. through which the lye drains off. A frame with its sides and ends down is shown by Fig. 27. By the 260 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. side of it is the clamp used for holding the diiferent parts in position when the frame is set up. Minor Implements. The minor implements of the soap laboratory are, a crutch, Fig. 28, composed of a long wooden handle adjusted, at the end, to a board, Fig. 28. Soap crutch. and used for stirring the soap paste in the operation of "mottling ;" large, cullendered, iron ladles, with long, wooden handles (Fig. 29), for dipping out the Fig. 29. Fig. 30. Ladles and Imcket. hot paste from the kettles, and copper buckets (Fig. 30) for conveying it to the frames. Every manufactory of soaps should also be supplied with presses, for compressing the tablets of soap. One suitable for toilet soaps is shown by Fig. 34, which clearly exhibits its construction. It has two spiral springs, A and B, by which the cake of soap is im- mediately expelled from the box C as soon as it is pressed. The workman knocks it off with the tablet that is to take its place ; and so the pressing goes on TOILET SOAPS. 261 without any delay in removing the tablets of soap as fast as finished. D is a rope suspending a wooden rod, Fig. 31. Fig. 32. Soap press. 262 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. E, which serves as a support to the bottom of the die during the pressure. The box C is movable, being merely fastened by screws ; and, when necessary, may be replaced by others of different sizes. This is a great convenience, for the size and form of the tablets may be varied by merely changing the box. The die from which the tablet is to receive a device, or the impress of the manufacturer's name, is screwed to the top of the box C, and may also be changed, as fashion, caprice, or taste shall dictate. Fig. 35. Soap press with spring. Screw Press. "When the soaps pressed in the first mould are entirely dried, they are slightly scraped at the surface and dipped into alcohol; they receive their definitive shape by means of a second mould which is placed under a screw press. TOILET SOAPS. 263 Figure 36 represents this press. Fig. 36. Screw press for toilet soaps. A A. Oak posts supporting the press. B B. Strong oak board used to receive the press. C C. Frame of the press. D. Iron screw provided at the end with a groove to receive the upper shell of the mould. E E. Fly. It is surmounted with a ball at each end. F F. Cast-iron matrix used to receive the copper mould. G. Copper mould formed of two pieces. H H. Rods of wrought iron adapted by means of screws to a horizontal bar below E E ; these rods pass under the cast-iron matrix F F, and raise the mova- ble rod L, after each pressure; then this raises the mould G, fixed in the cast-iron matrix. In this way, after the pressure has been given by the screw, the soap can be taken from the mould and another sub- stituted. 2G4 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. The other accessories which complete the estab- lishment of a toilet soap factory are the drying-room: 1. A scale to weigh the bars of soap. 2. Another scale to weigh small quantities. 3. Several large wooden boxes lined with lead, to mix the shavings of soap with the colors and the oils. 4. Several tables covered with marble for balling the soap. 5. Several marble mortars to grind and pound the soap. 6. Several fine drum sieves to pass the colors to be incorporated into the soap. 7. Boards for drying the soap. 8. Scrapers and knives: the former for cleansing the surface of the bars of soap, the latter for dividing the soap into small cakes. Slatwork frames, made of wooden uprights and cross-pieces, as shown by Fig. 37. The openings be- Fig. 37. Soap rack. tween the slats permit the free access of the air, and thus promote the drying. TOILET SOAPS. 265 Figure 38 shows a kettle for cold soaps. Figure 39 represents a kettle or jacket with a double bottom, heated by steam. This kettle is of Fig- 38. Fig. 39. Kettles for soaps by the cold process. tinned copper, and may be used also to purify tallow and greases. Fig. 40. Kettle for floating soaps. A A (Fig. 40) is a cucurbit. B is a tinned copper water-bath. 266 PERFUMERY AXD KINDRED ARTS. C is a beater or stirrer, to which a movement of rotation is given. The capacity of the water-bath for twenty pounds of soap must be twenty-five gallons. The soap is put into the water-bath B, with the necessary quan- tity of water, and when it is melted, the beater C is put in motion. For the operation to succeed well, the temperature of the mixture must be between 158 and 176. Fig. 41. Still and water-bath for transparent soaps. A A (Fig. 41). Cucurbit of copper fixed on a brick furnace. B. Water-bath which exactly fits into the cucur- bit ; the solution of the soap is operated in the vase. C. Cover of the water-bath. It has two apertures, D, E. The first is closed by a large cock, the other gives passage to the stirrer X, F. F. Stirrer. g. Worm of copper or tin, destined to condense the alcoholic vapors. TOILET SOAPS. 267 h. Copper pipe, serving to make the connection between the alembic and the worm. Fig. 42. Moulds for transparent soap balls. Copper dippers, with handles of two feet length, Fig. 43. Fig. 43. Figure 44 represents the cutting or stripping ma- chine. Fig. 44. Soap cutter or stripper. A (Fig. 44). Cutter. B. Iron shaft which traverses the centre of the cutter and carries a handle C, at one of its ends ; this handle is used to give motion to the machine. D D. Frame of wood or cast iron, on which the shaft of the cutter rests. 2G8 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. E. Inclined plane of wood, on which the soap is placed to be cut into shavings ; F, is the cake of soap. G. Large wooden box to receive the shavings of soap. The method of using this machine is very simple. The cake of soap to be cut being laid on the inclined plane E, and touching the cutter at one end, a move- ment of rotation is given to the machine by the handle C. During the rotation, each time the blades of the cutter touch the cake of soap, they take off a shaving which falls into the box. The first cake be- ing cut, substitute a second, and so on. This machine renders immense service in the manufacture of toilet soaps. A man with it can re- duce 200 pounds of soap to shavings in one hour. Fipr. 45. Soap mill. The soap-mill is represented in Fig. 45. It con- sists of three cylinders of porphyry, from five to six inches in diameter, by twelve or fourteen inches in length. They are separated from each other; the distance between them is regulated by screws, at will. They are set in motion by a system of gearing, the unequal dimensions of which, produce also an une- TOILET SOAPS. 269 qual rotation for each cylinder. "We give the indi- cation of the principal pieces which compose it. A A. Frame of cast iron which supports the cylin- ders. B B B. Cylinders to grind the shavings. C. Crank fixed on the axis of the first cylinder ; used to put the machine in motion. D. Scraper. It is formed of a large steel blade, fixed horizontally against the last cylinder, which it traverses in all its length. The use of this blade is to scrape off the soap adhering to the cylinder. E. Large wooden box lined with lead. This box receives the soap which has been crushed between the cylinders. F. Movable hopper of wood lined with zinc. Its object is to receive the shavings of soap and trans- mit them to the cylinders. CHAPTER XIX. TOILET SOAPS. MANIPULATION. THE exact causes of the saponification of oils and greases with alkalies are yet obscure; and, no mat- ter what may be the experience of the operator, he will find at all times something to learn that will either improve his goods or facilitate his methods. Thus we hear people say that no soap can be properly made without boiling. "While I admit that boiling is as yet the best known means of making a proper chemical combination of the ingredients, I am not prepared to say there may not be discovered other 270 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. means to produce a better article, so that, if the maker of toilet soap is progressive and attentive, he may discover such improved process that may bene- fit himself and those who may follow him. To know how to make a good soap is very neces- sary, and, as boiled soap is the best, we must try and give the proper mode of making it. Being assured by proper tests of the purity and causticity of his alkalies, let him have ready lyes of the different strengths required some to mark 10, 15, 21, and 27 Baume or an average of about 21; and to make a good white soap for stock, take Tallow or veal fat . . .30 pounds. Lard, refined . . . . 45 " Cotton-seed oil . . . .25 " In all 100 pounds. Let them be put into a kettle of about 40 gallons' capacity, heated by furnace or by steam. The heat is applied, and, when the fats are melted, about 50 pounds of soda lye at 12 Baume are poured gently in, with constant stirring and boiling for some hours, when 20 pounds of lye at 18 are added, and, after boiling about an hour, it is allowed to rest, the steam turned off or the fire withdrawn ; this is called the parting operation or empatage, and requires con- stant stirring to form into a perfect homogeneous mass, and forms a perfect mixture having no grease at the top or alkali at the bottom. After some hours' rest, you proceed to the second operation or separation, which is done by means of alkalies, having pure common salt in solution, and marking 20 to 25 Baume, and the object is to sepa- rate the soap formed from its excess of water you TOILET SOAPS. 271 turn on the heat gently and pour in gradually 25 pounds of the salted lye. Keep stirring until the soap separates in grains or curds, when, after this separation appears complete, turn off the heat and allow it to rest for some 6 hours, when remove the lye from the bottom, which lye may not have much causticity, but may be useful to use again for the same operation by adding a little caustic lye to make it mark the requisite strength. The third operation or coction is conducted by pouring into the soap about 30 pounds of caustic lye at 25, and bringing to a boil, constantly stirring to keep down the scum that will form, and will appear less as the soap boils and is near completion. After boiling some three or four hours turn off the heat, and in two or three hours draw off the lye. The liquidation or cleansing is the fourth opera- tion, and is done by pouring into the melted soap 30 or 40 pounds of lye marking 6, and boiling gently for a few hours until the soap is dissolved into a paste of a grayish shade and is neutral ;" when the fire is withdrawn, and the soap stirred briskly for some time and allowed to rest until the next day, when the lye is drawn off and the scum removed, and ladled into the frames, being careful not to stir up the darker soap that forms at the bottom, which with the scum soap can be used for another operation, or for soaps that have color, as the palm, rosin, etc. When in the frames it can be colored, perfumed, or allowed to cool in its natural white state, and cut up into bars and kept for stock to make various soaps by means of the mill, or by remelting with 272 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. other kinds of soap to form the different varieties desired. To make a good palm soap, I take Palm oil (purified and bleached) 60 pounds. Tallow oil 20 " Cocoa-nut oil . . . .20 " 100 pounds in all. Begin with the first process, called parting, with about 15 gallons of caustic lye at 12 or 15, keeping it stirred, but not boiled too violently, as it might cause the cocoa-nut oil to separate, which, if it did occur, can be combined again by adding a gallon or two of cold, weak lye. Boil for three or four hours, adding by degrees stronger lyes of about 20. Keep stirring until towards the end of the boiling, add 2 gallons of lye at 25, when remove the heat and stir briskly until thoroughly mixed, when let it rest. After resting some hours, proceed to the second process of separation, which is rendered somewhat more 'difficult in all soaps containing cocoa-nut oil ; we now pour in little by little salted lye of about 25, and when by boiling we see the soap forming into grains and floating in the lye the heat is turned off and the stirring is stopped, and, after letting it rest to separate, the lye is drawn off. For the third operation, or coction, add about 8 gallons of lye at 27, and when it begins to boil a great deal of froth will form, which must be beaten down, and it will disappear as the boiling continues ; and when after some hours' boiling the soaps begin to form into a curdled mass, a portion taken out forms, when pressed between the fingers, a hard scale ; the heat and stirring are stopped and the soap TOILET SOAPS. 273 allowed to rest, when it will form upon the top, and the lye can be withdrawn from the bottom. In finishing, or what some call fitting, the soap in the kettle is then diluted with about 10 gallons of weak lye at 5, and boiled and stirred ; when, after a thorough mixing, if it should separate, weak lye at 2 is added, and it again becomes pasty, and the darker soap at the bottom begins to rise to the surface, when it maybe considered finished. "When the heat is removed the pan is covered up and allowed to rest five hours; the scum is then removed and the soap is ladled into frames, taking care not to take the dark soap from the bottom. This operation should yield about 160 pounds of soap of a handsome yellow color, which can be employed as a body for many colored toilet soaps. Another useful soap as an ingredient or body for cheaper, yet very good, toilet soaps of 2d quality, is Palm Soap with Jftosin. Palm oil . . . .30 pounds^ Cocoa-nut oil . . . .20 Tallow oil 35 " Eosin . . . . .15 Melt the oils by gentle heat, pouring slowly in 8 gallons of caustic lye of 12, stirring and gently boil- ing for three hours, when add 5 gallons of stronger lye of 17, and boil three hours longer, or until it be- come a perfect pasty mass, when put in 3 gallons of lye at 21, stirring well and removing the heat, when let the paste rest. To separate with the salted lye at 25, pour in while stirring another 6 gallons until it forms into 18 274: PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. grains, and the lye separates, when let it rest five hours and draw off the lye. In the third operation lye of 25, amounting to about 6 gallons, and the rosin previously melted and strained, are now poured in, keeping down the froth by occasional beating, stirring when the scum disappears, and after boiling about six hours the grains look hard, and crumble between the fingers ; draw the heat and let it rest, and after some time draw off the lye. This soap will still have to be finished by a fourth operation, which is divided in two: 1st, add 6 or 7 gallons of lye at 7, stirring and boiling for five or six hours, and if it has any tendency to grain add a gal- lon or two of cold water to give it consistency. Yet it is necessary that the soap should separate, which can be seen by the lye running off separately on the stirrer, when stop the heat and cover up. 2d, as the soap will still be too caustic, it can be neutralized by adding (after drawing off the lye of the first opera- tion) 3 gallons of solution of sal soda, marking 5, and boiling and stirring to a smooth, syrupy fluid, until the soap from the bottom appears to rise some- what discolored, when turn off the heat, having added a portion of water to supply the evaporation. After a day's rest the scum is taken off, and the soap dipped into frames, when the gray soap at the bottom is mixed with the scum, and can be kept for the next operation, or boiled together with weak lyes for an inferior soap. Cocoa-nut Oil Soap. I have remarked that this soap has peculiar pro- perties, and that of washing in sea-water is a great advantage, and gives it the name of marine soap. TOILET SOAPS. 275 To prepare this soap a little potash lye added to the soda lye is an advantage, for when about 12 per cent, of the potash lye is mixed with the soda, it not only makes the soap more plastic, but improves its qualities for all purposes. This potash can be added to the soda before it is made caustic, or (which is the better plan) they can be separately prepared and mixed before beginning the operation of saponi- fication. This potash lye is so useful that, even if the toilet soap-maker did not make soft toilet soaps, he would find it essential in imparting an emolliency to his best soaps by their greater solubility. To saponify 100 pounds of cocoa-nut oil, take 90 pounds of soda lye at 30, and 10 pounds of potash lye at 30, and mix, and after the oil has been well purified, let it be melted, raising the heat gradually while adding the alkali, and bringing to a boil. The soap, which at first appears to granulate, gradually becomes syrupy and perfectly united. If, during the process, the soap separates into grains, a few pints of water added while stirring will generally correct it and supply evaporation ; when the paste is perfectly homogeneous and transparent, it may be considered finished, and when the heat has somewhat subsided it can be put into the frames. This soap, being of a brilliant whiteness, and of a translucent, waxy aspect, takes the colors very nicely. To color red take vermilion or orange mineral in the proportion of a drachm to the pound, mixing in a small mortar with a portion of the soap, and stirring in the frame. It can also be mottled or marbled with the different colors, red, yellow, and blue, and by a little practice very handsome effects are produced. The aniline colors can be used for this soap to 276 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. great advantage, but they are added cold by the mill- ing process, when the perfumes are added, and they make very attractive colors. This process of milling, which will be more fully described in another chapter, permits of the mixing of the different kinds of soaps, and, as cocoa-nut oil soap is not much favored in our country, and yet has some advantages in combination with the others, they can be combined in all proportions to make an endless variety of kinds and colors, and of various perfumes suitable to their names. This addition of cocoa-nut oil has the advantage of giving great emolliency and a profuse lather to all the other soaps, and should when well perfumed make them acceptable to almost every one. CHAPTER XX. TOILET SOAPS BY THE COLD PROCESS. SOAPS of this class, though rarely so perfect in quality as those made by boiling, yet, properly and carefully made, give good satisfaction, and in some respects they have an advantage, especially when soaps are wanted to have the fine fragrance of the flowers, the delicate odors of which would be de- stroyed by boiling. Though these odors could be added to the boiled soap by milling, it would have to be in the form of extract or alcoholate, which would be in many ways objectionable, causing the cakes to shrink and warp in the process of drying. Again, a great many objections have been made to these soaps becoming very hard and insoluble, and as TOILET SOAPS BY THE COLD PROCESS. 277 soon losing their perfume, and being caustic and irritating to the skin, leaving an unpleasant rough- ness after using. Nearly all these objections can be overcome, for when they exist it is because of the carelessness or ignorance of the manufacturer; for if he knows his business properly he can by this process make a soap that has none of these faults. The proper lye for most of these soaps is the caus- tic soda lye, with about ten per cent, of potash lye of the same strength and causticity. Making soaps by this process would be more economical than boil- ing, if the lyes did not require as much fuel and trouble to concentrate them as is experienced in the boiling of the soap, yet, as I have said, these lyes can be purchased of the manufacturing chemist already prepared, and of the strength of 36, the strength usually employed and prepared especially for this purpose. But, if the manufacturer has not the con- venience of procuring them, or the cost of trans- porting is too great, he will have to make them for himself by concentrating the soda lye prepared as directed in my last chapter, and the potash lye in the same manner as heretofore described; and, as he will require to make soft soaps as well as hard, it would be well to prepare stocks of each of these alkalies of the requisite strength, and keep them on hand ready for his use ; they must mark 36 Baume at a tempera- ture of 60 Fahr. These soaps have borne the name of "little pan" soaps, because they can be manufactured in small pans with as much facility as large ones, or in fact more conveniently, for one person can manage a ket- tle with from 100 to 300 pounds with ease. Figure 38 represents a portable kettle, the heat for which 278 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. is communicated by a small charcoal furnace, which can be withdrawn at any moment to regulate the heat. In a kettle of this description, holding about 50 gal- lons, a person can easily make 200 to 300 pounds of soap in two or three hours, so that if his materials be ready to his hands, he can easily turn out 1000 pounds of soap in a working day. As said in speaking of boiled soaps, the toilet-soap- maker, who wishes to make soaps in variety and of good quality, will provide himself with a stock of each of the kinds requisite for a good white soap, palm soap, half palm soap, cocoa-nut oil soap, etc. ; so that by a judicious combination he can make all the different kinds needed. To make a fine white soap suitable for most of his colored soaps by the cold process, mix the greases in about the following proportions : Lard, purified . . . .30 pounds. Veal fat, purified . . . 40 " Cocoa-nut oil . . .10 ." Cotton-seed oil . . . .20 " 100 pounds in all. Having seen that all are of good quality and clean, melt them together, and bring them to a heat of about 112 F. ; and, if convenient, warm the alkali, con- sisting of 45 pounds of caustic soda and 5 pounds of caustic potash, both at 36 Baume, to about 90 F., and place in such a manner as to cause it to run slowly into the melted grease, while a person is con- stantly stirring, stopping occasionally to see that the heat does not get above the point named or the lye does not run too fast, as either event would cause the contents to separate. Continue the stirring, after TOILET SOAPS BY THE COLD PKOCESS. 279 all the lye is in, until it is too thick to work, and the two substances are completely united, when turn into a frame, which had better be lined with a soft, clean cotton cloth, large enough to bring over the top of the frame and cover the soap. The perfume can be put in before the soap hardens in the pan; and, for almond soap, should be Oil of bitter almonds .. . 12 ounces. Oil of lemon .... 4 " In a few hours after the soap is in the frame, a singular spontaneous reaction takes place with these soaps ; their particles seem to react and cause the temperature to rise to about 180 F. But this phe- nomenon does not impair their quality, but, on the contrary, is a means of a more intimate combination of the particles, and the soap is thereby improved. In a day or two, according to the quantity and size of the frame, the soap can be cut up and platted and racked, and in a week it is ready to be pressed. This soap should be of a beautiful clear white, and but slightly caustic, and give a fine lather. If made into almond soap, each cake should be wrapped in foil. But it would be well to have a stock of this white soap in bars to use for making soaps of other colors and perfumes, such as rose soap, etc. ; and also a yellow soap, made as follows : Yellow Soap. Palm oil (best) . . . .40 pounds. .Tallow oil 30 " Cocoa-nut oil . . .10 " Cotton-seed oil . . . .20 " 100 280 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Manipulate as for the white soap, with 50 pounds of the mixed lyes at 36 5 or 6 pounds of it being potash lye and color with about an ounce of anatto dissolved in a pint of weak lye. This soap, if care- fully made of good material, will be of a clear orange- yellow color, and can be used for the marsh-mallow and other yellow soaps, or in combination with the white or cocoa-nut oil soaps, to make a variety. For a soap of second quality, notably the honey and glycerine, the manufacturer can make a soap that may be called half-palm soap with rosin, which latter material will cause a little more trouble in its manipu- lation by the cold process. For, as I have remarked, rosin is not saponifiable with alkali, and is, in fact, an adulteration, though of a nature to improve it for some purposes, causing a more copious lather, and making the soap that contains it more soluble. For a half-palm soap with rosin, take Tallow or suet 40 pounds. Palm oil 30 " Cotton-seed oil . . . .20 " Rosin 10 " 100 pounds in all. Soda lye, 36, 50 pounds. Take out about 6 pounds of the lye to dissolve with the rosin separately, which is not to be added until the soap by its thickness and evenness shows it is nearly complete ; when if on adding the rosin it thickens too soon, a little warm water is added, say about a quart at a time, to facilitate complete com- bination. This soap, if properly made, is of a pale yellow or fawn color, of a plastic consistence, which it will re- tain for a long time, and is exceedingly useful to CASTILE SOAP FROM COTTON-SEED OIL. 281 use in conjunction with the other soaps. I have given various styles, colors, and perfumes under as many different names. Of the cocoa-nut oil soap, I have, in my last chap- ter, given the proper formula with suitable instruc- tions, remarking that, if made like the hoiled soaps given, it would be apt to retain too much of the salt of separation ; so I advise a sort of modified cold pro- cess, where the lye is somewhat weaker, admitting sufficient water to allow a slight boiling to form a better combination of its parts. This soap should also be kept in stock with the others given, and will be sufficient for all practical purposes; and, by the aid of remelting or with the mill, nearly all kinds can be made. CHAPTER XXI. CASTILE SOAP FROM COTTON-SEED OIL. IN our Southern States, where cotton is grown in the greatest quantity and of the best quality in the world, the seed has long been known to have an abundance of oil, the extraction of which was very difficult on account of the adhering fibre. From this cause the seed was allowed to rot, and was used for manure. When, however, machinery was invented for hulling the seed, the oil could be extracted with facility. The large amount of hull and adhering fibre these seeds possess will be understood when it is known that it sometimes takes five bushels of seed to make one bushel ready for the mill. The hull and 282 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. fibre are used for paper stock, and are, of course, very valuable. When the}?' were able to remove the hull and make the oil, another difficulty arose in the large amount of objectionable color the crude oil contained, and which was due to dark resinous spots | contained in the seed ; the color, however, has been overcome, for it is now refined by means of chemicals, caustic lye, etc., and bleached with sulphuric acid, and pressed to remove a large amount of stearine it contains, and which, with the oils, is used for a great many pur- poses, this latter being sometimes sold and bottled as salad oil from its sweet nutty taste when fresh and pure. Cotton-seed oil, when well refined, is a bland, bright yellowish oil, very similar to almond oil, though it has some of the properties of a drying oil, but taking a very long time to dry. This drying property does not seem to deter the maker of cheap perfumery from bottling large quantities for common hair oil, or from buying it for that purpose under the name of salad oil, often not knowing from what source it is obtained. To the soap-maker it possesses very valuable pro- perties, for nothing has yet been discovered that is so good and economical a substitute for olive oil ; and when a portion of lard and bleached palm oil is mixed with it, for making Marseilles or Castile soap, it is difficult to distinguish the imitation from the genuine O O soap. The importance of this oil in the manufacture of soap is, to me, so great that I deem it necessary to devote some space to its description, and particularly as few soap-makers have as yet availed themselves of its benefits, and to try and give them some hints for CASTILE SOAP PROM COTTON-SEED OIL. 283 its manufacture into a soap that may be called castile soap, from its close resemblance. In saponifying cotton-seed oil, there is no peculiar difficulty more than in making a good castile soap from olive oil, though the soap is made somewhat sooner if the stearine is left in it, which stearine is generally pressed out to permit the oleine to remain fluid in our c6ldest weather. To make a white castile soap, take Cotton-seed oil . . . .80 pounds. Lard, good quality . . . 10 " Olive oil 10 " And prepare the lye by close calculation in this manner: 50 pounds to mark 15 Baume, 50 pounds at 21, and 50 pounds at 27, making 150 pounds for this quantity of grease. The lye to be made of the English caustic soda, and rendered clear and caustic with one-fourth of lime. To the melted grease in the kettle pour the first 50 pounds of lye at 15, keeping it stirred as the heat is raised to boiling, and as it froths beating it down quickly to prevent its overflowing; boil for three or four hours, when add by degrees the 50 pounds of lye at 21, and boil for five or six hours longer, keep- ing up the stirring, and, when it becomes a perfectly smooth mass, turn off the heat and let it rest for the lye to separate. After some hours' rest the spent lye is drawn off, the heat is raised, and the last 50 pounds of lye at 27 are poured in, and allowed to boil briskly for four or five hours, when the soap ought to grain and appear flakey when pressed between the fingers ; when again turn off the heat and allow the lye to separate, and draw off after some hours' rest. 284 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. In finishing or fitting a lye of carbonate of potash of 6 or 8, say 25 pounds are stirred in with a gentle heat until the soap presents a perfectly homogeneous syrupy mass, when it can be left to divide the scum to the top and the gray soap to the bottom, with the fine soap between, which is dipped into the frames, and the scum and dark soap kept to make the mot- tled soap. The result should be about 150 pounds of the best soap having a fine white appearance, and 30 to 40 pounds of inferior soaps that can be mixed with the mottled castile soap. To make a mottled castile soap, take of Cotton-seed oil . . . .80 pounds. Lard, good 10 " Palm oil, bleached . . . 10 " The bleached palm improves the odor, causing a greater resemblance to the Marseilles soap, and is cheaper than the olive oil. Sulphuretted soda lyes are preferred by the French soap-makers for their mottled soap; but, as we are using the English soft lye or artificial lyes, we will have to adopt a modified pro- cess. The sulphuretted crude soda forms the colored mottling, the sulphur combines with the iron of the kettle and other impurities, and forms the oxide giv- ing the blue color, which turns red on all those parts exposed to the a'r To make this soap, proceed very much as for the white soap. To the melted grease pour on the 50 pounds of the weaker lye at 15, gently raising the heat while they are mixing, which should be done by gently stirring, and keeping down the froth by beating, and regulating the heat to prevent too rapid CASTILE SOAP FROM COTTON-SEED OIL. 285 boiling. After three or four hours, pour in the 50 pounds of lye at 21, and continue the stirring, and as the froth subsides bring to a more rapid ebulli- tion, and when it granulates shut oif the heat and let it rest for four or five hours. Now draw off the lyes and proceed to the enlargage or coction, by put- ting into the melted soap the third 50 pounds of lye at 27, which is added while constantly beating and stirring. Stir in also about 5 pounds of common salt, and continue the boiling for six or eight hours, as may be required, or until the grains separate', as can be seen by taking out a portion with a knife or pressing between the fingers, when a little experience will show a flakey scale free from the lye ; let the heat be stopped and the soap allowed to settle until next day, when after drawing off the salted lye it can be finished. The soap is finished with weak sal-soda lye,, or, if the soap is neutral, with water having a little salt in solution, for if it needs water the grains will appear hard and dry, when the so:ip will have to be boiled until it forms a smooth mass. The soap is again allowed to rest, and the next day again thoroughly stirred and put in the frame, when it is ready for the mottling. This is done by putting into a small watering-pot with a rose-spout about 4 ounces of sulphate of iron, dissolved in a pint of warm water, and pouring it from the rose on the top of the soap in the frame, while the crutch is plunged up and down to give the streaky marbled appearance. Of course this requires some practice, as it should pre- sent a uniformity throughout the entire mass, but is not difficult to accomplish with a little experience.- If this soap is carefully made, it will be as good as most of the mottled castile soaps we import, and 286 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. should be made so economically as to yield a good profit while being sold at a less price than the imported article. I devote some space to the description of the manu- facture of these soaps from the cotton-seed oil, believ- ing that the cheapness and other advantages of the raw material will induce soap-makers to give it the consideration it seems to deserve for making a good and cheap soap, and that they may see a source of profit in its manufacture. While it is not supposed that the perfumer or toilet soap-maker can give much time to this class of soaps, I yet deem the subject of sufficient importance to endeavor to draw the attention thereto of those engaged in the manufacture of soaps alone. CHAPTER XXII. COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS. BY compounding soaps I mean the making of toilet soaps of different names, colors, and perfumes from the different kinds of soap, boiled or cold, for making which I have given the many details. Thus we suppose the maker of toilet soap has in stock white soap, palm soap, yellow or half palm and cocoa- nut oil soap, and with them he can proceed to make any kind needed. We have shown how the almond soap is made from the white cold soap by perfuming in the pan with the oil of bitter almonds or oil of mirbane. COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS. 287 Honey soap can be made also of the half palm soap with rosin, by putting in the pan just before turning into the frame 8 ounces of citronella oil and 2 ounces of lemon-grass oil to each 100 pounds. Glycerine soap can be perfumed in the same way ; for each 100 pounds take Oil of cassia .... 2 ounces. " caraway ... .1 " lavender .... 4 " mirbane ... .1 Let both of these soaps be a bright yellow, the last of a somewhat darker shade to distinguish it. Marsh-mallow soap can be made by an admixture of the palm and the half palm soap, and perfumed to each 100 pounds Oil of lavender . . . 6 ounces, lemon grass . . .4 peppermint . . . \ " petit-grain . . . \ To make a good rose soap take equal parts of the white and cocoa-nut oil soap, and color 100 pounds with 12 ounces of French vermilion, and perfume with Oil of rose geranium . . .4 ounces. " rose 1 u cinnamon . . .1 bergamot. ... 2 White Windsor Soap. To 50 pounds each of the white soap and cocoa-nut oil soap, mix in the mill this perfume 288 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Oil of lavender . . .4 ounces. rosemary . . . . 4 " " thyme . . . . 2 " " cloves . . . . 1 " caraway . . . . 1 " Brown Windsor Soap. This popular soap, when properly prepared, is made in the following manner : Take of boiled palm soap and half-palm soap each 50 pounds ; put in the stripper, and make into thin shavings, and spread upon sheets of strong paper to dry ; when dry, melt in a marine bath with a small portion of an aromatic water, and when it is again hard enough proceed to cut it up and mill it as before, drying it again and remelting and adding caramel to color ; and after the third operation add the following perfume to the 100 pounds : Oil of bergamot . . .4 ounces. " caraway . . . . 2 " " cassia . . . . 2 " " lavender . . . . 8 " " cloves . . . . 1 " petit-grain . . .1 Mould or cut into small square cakes, and wrap them in a neat paper wrapper. Brown Windsor soap owes its fine emollient pro- perties to the amount of labor employed in its manu- facture, for it is almost needless to say that the more soap is worked and handled, and melted and remelted, the better it becomes. This soap is, in large estab- lishments, often made of the scraps of all other kinds of soaps that accumulate from moulding and COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS. 289 manipulating, but it is better to color and mould them from good soap, for the toilet soap-maker should endeavor to keep up the standard excellence of the well-known old Brown Windsor Soap. To the good taste and good judgment, and to the enterprise of the toilet soap manufacturer, I must leave the formulas for the numerous soaps to be found in all the markets ; with his stock and colors and perfumes he cannot have any trouble in making any or all of them. I will now give the formulas for making some of the superfine soaps by the cold process, for about 75 pounds of soap. Benzoin Soap. (Savon au Benzoin.) Hard body with benzoin . . 30 pounds. Cocoa-nut oil . . .9 Cotton-seed oil . . . .10 Yellow wax . . . .1 Mixed caustic lye, 36 . .25 Saponify in the manner directed for the soap by the cold process, and add of perfume Flowers of benzoin . . .4 ounces. Oil of bergamot . . .3 lavender .... 2 " geranium . ... 1 Tincture of benzoin . . .8 Gum tragacanth (in mucilage) . 2 The mucilage of tragacanth is made by dissolving the 2 ounces of gum in 2 pints of water by macera- tion for about twenty-four hours, stirring and strain- ing, and is added to the soap after all the alkali is in. 19 290 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. It helps to make the soap more soluble, adds to its emolliency, and is softening to the skin, and should be used in all superfine soaps. The benzoin soap should be colored a light brown to resemble the gum. Ambergris or Ambrosial Soap. (Savon d'Ambre Surfm.) Hard body with ambergris . 15 pounds. musk . . 5 " " ambrette . . 10 " Jasmine pomade, No. 24 . .10 " Eose . . 10 " Beeswax . . . . . \ " Gum tragacanth . . .2 ounces. Caustic lye of soda, 36 . . 25 pounds. Saponify in the usual manner for cold soaps, taking care to keep the heat under 150 F., and when finished perfume with Oil of lavender .... 2 ounces. Tincture of ambergris . . 8 " Color lilac or light purple. Bouquet Soap. (Savon au Bouquet.) Soft body 30 pounds. Cotton-seed oil . . . .10 " Cocoa-nut oil . . . 9 " "White wax . . . . 1 " Gum tragacanth . . . 1^ ounces. Caustic lye, 10 per cent, of potash 25 pounds. Make this soap as directed for cold soap, and per- fume with COMPOUNDING TOILET SOAPS. 291 Oil of bergamot . . .4 ounces. " cedrat . . . . 4 " " cloves . . . . 2 " " thyme . . . . 1 " " neroli . . . . 1 " Color a light yellow. Lettuce Soap. (Savon au Sue de Laitue.) Lard with lettuce-juice . . 30 pounds. Spermaceti . ... 1 Cocoa-nut oil . . .10 Cotton-seed oil . . . .9 Gum tragacanth, dissolved in lettuce-juice .... 2 ounces. Caustic lye, 36 . . . .25 pounds. Saponify and perfume with Oil of bitter almond . . . 1| ounces. " bergamot . . .4 " cloves .... 1 Powdered orris root . . .4 Color light green. Musk Soap. (Savon au Muse.) Hard body of musk . . .15 pounds. Eose pomade, No. 24 . . .5 Cotton-seed oil . . . .20 " Cocoa-nut oil . . .10 Gum tragacanth . . .2 ounces. Caustic lye, 36 . . . .25 pounds. 292 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Saponify and color brown, and perfume with Oil of bergamot . . .4 ounces. u rose " cloves . . . . Tincture of musk . . . 2 " Millefleur Soap. (Superfine.) Hard body of ambrette . . 10 pounds. " vanilla . . . 10 " Cassie pomade, No. 24 . . 5 " Rose " " . 5 " Cocoa-nut oil . . . 15 " Cocoa butter . . . . 4 " Yellow wax . . . . 1 " Caustic lye, mixed, 36 . . 25 " Gum tragacanth . . .2 ounces. Color light brown, saponify, and perfume with Oil of lavender . . . 1 ounce. " bergamot . . . 2 " geranium . . . \ " cloves . . . i " Tincture of musk . . .2 " " ambergris . .1 " Violet Soap. (Superfine.) Violet pomade, No. 24 . .10 pounds. Oil of jasmine, " . 10 " " cassie, " . 10 " Palm oil (bleached) . . . 20 " Wax .. 1 " 'Gum tragacanth .. . .2 ounces. Caustic soda lye, 36 . . 25 pounds. MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS. 293 Saponify by the cold process, and perfume with Extract of violet, !N"o. 2 .8 ounces. " rose, " . 8 " Tincture of ambrette . . 8 " Color yellowish-green. In this manner can the maker of toilet soaps make all the known varieties of superfine soaps, and it would be unnecessary to give further recipes. CHAPTER XXIII. MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS. IN this chapter I must give some details of other varieties of soap that may be demanded to make a proper assortment, or be required to meet the cur- rent demands of the trade. Soft soaps, as I have said, are made with potash lye, and, owing to the limited quantity sold, they are usually made in a small way by the cold process, as described in making the hard soda soaps. The old formulas for making the soft white soap, or shaving cream, directed it to be made with lard, which does not by itself make a satisfactory soap, as it does not produce a sufficiently copious lather, so necessary for shaving. Shaving Cream. (White potash soap.) Yeal suet 60 pounds. Lard 20 Cocoa-nut oil . . . .20 Potash lye, 36 . . . .50 " 294: PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Melt the grease in a pan, of the kind described before and illustrated by Fig. 38, or by means of a steam jacket, as seen by Fig. 39 ; divide the alkali into two parts, and dilute one with water to make it mark about 21, and place it so that it will run gently into the melted grease. When the grease is about 112 F. turn on the lye ; keep stirring and reg- ulate the temperature below 200 ; in about two hours the soap will begin to form and will separate in grains ; then add the other portion of lye at 36, and continue the constant stirring until it becomes too stiff to work, when remove the fire, and beat it, while cooling, into as smooth a mass as possible, when cover the pan or remove into any suitable wooden vessel. The pearly appearance has yet to be given by means of beating in small portions in a marble mortar, or by running it rapidly through the stone rollers of the mill. To make almond cream, perfume with oil of bitter almonds and a little bergamot. To make the rose shaving cream, color with fine French vermilion, of the proportion of a drachm to the pound of cream, and perfume with oil of rose and rhodium. To make ambrosial, color with tincture of archil and perfume with tinctures of ambergris and musk, oils of cloves and bergamot. The colors and perfumes are mixed at the time of milling or rubbing in the mortar. Floating Soaps. These soaps have many admirers, and when made of the proper materials are excellent, as the particles of air with which they are filled cause them to lather freely. They should only be made of vegetable oil soaps, as soap with tallow or lard will not float. To prepare MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS. 295 30 pounds. 20 " Nympli Floating Soap, Take Palm oil soap Cocoa-nut oil soap Let them be stripped or milled and put in a marine bath with a gallon of water, and when perfectly dis- solved let it be rapidly stirred with a churn-like con- trivance to about twice its capacity, when it can be turned into shallow frames. The accompanying figure will give an idea of a suitable apparatus. Fig. 46. Kettle for floating soaps. Powdered Soaps Are a very convenient form for using soap for shav- ing or lavatory purposes, and are when well made very neutral. To make them Take the best boiled white soap, and, having milled it into strips, put it on sheets of clean, strong paper, in a warm, dry place, free from dust, and when perfectly hard and dry grind it in the mill 296 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. to an impalpable powder, using a drum sieve to make it uniform. If the soap is to remain white, perfume it with oil of bitter almonds. If red, color with a drachm of fine vermilion to each pound of powder, and perfume like rose soap. If yellow, color with powdered gamboge, and perfume as desired. As a rule, the color should be added before sieving. Sap02}hane or Oleophane. This transparent soft soap is much patronized by some people, and is usually made from good soaps dissolved in strong alcohol. Take of soap of tallow and rosin 6 pounds. Alcohol, 95 . . .8 pints. The soap is to be well milled and dried and put into a water-bath with the alcohol ; stirred until all is dissolved ; colored with tincture of saffron ; and perfumed with Oil of cinnamon . . . ^ ounce. " cloves . . . i " lavender . . . . 1 Tincture of styrax . . . 1 " And immediately put into the bottle intended for vending. Soap Essences Are made by the solution of soap in alcohol ; and to make them, soaps made with vegetable oils must only be used, as all others would solidify or become opaque on cooling. Take "White castile soap . . .12 ounces. Alcohol, 85 . . .4 pints. Liquor potassa, U. S. P. . . J ounce. MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS. 297 Let the soap be cut up into fine shavings and dis- solved in a water-bath with the alcohol and liquor potassa, and when it is dissolved perfume and put into bottles. Alcohol of 85 is about the proper strength, and the alkali is added to keep it liquid. The usual per- fume is Oil of geranium . . . . 3 drachms. " lemon grass . . .4 cloves . . . . 1 " This essence will retain a little glycerine in solu- tion, and is a delightful and convenient article for shaving, cleaning the teeth, etc. ; and I would sug- gest to the perfumer that he could prepare many other similar preparations that would be pleasant to use and might become popular. Transparent Soaps. These salable soaps are made with alcohol and curd soap; the curd soap must be a soap made of tallow or suet, as there have not been discovered any others that will remain transparent. The soap is stripped and milled and dried perfectly dry; and the alcohol should be 95, or the process may fail. The curd soap is reduced to shavings and perfectly dried and mixed with twice its weight of alcohol of 95, and put into an alembic, Fig. 47, fitted with a stirrer, when after a day's rest it is put into a water- bath, and, by means of a condenser, the most of the alcohol is distilled off and recovered to use again, or for something else ; when but little comes over, stop the heat, and when it has become somewhat cool pour it into moulds, which are usually spherical and much 298 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. larger than the soap is intended to be, Fig. 42, as it requires some drying and exposure to the air to make it transparent, when it is turned into balls or pressed into cakes in moulds. The perfume is added just previous to pouring from the still. Color red with tincture of archil ; yellow with tincture of saffron. There is a recipe for making a transparent soap by the cold process, which results in a great saving of time over the old method. Take Tallow or suet (refined) . . 20 pounds. Caustic lye, 36, 10 per cent, of potash 10 " Alcohol, 95 . . .2 gallons. Saponify the tallow with 5 pounds of the lye (in the manner described for cold soaps), stirring for about two hours ; add the other 5 pounds to the alcohol, with the heat under 140 F., and add very gradually, still stirring; and when the soap begins to thicken, and is thoroughly mixed, turn into a frame, which should be surrounded with a cotton cloth to keep the heat in, and cool as gradually as possible. This soap attains its transparency by about a week's exposure to the air. The color and perfume should be put in previously to pouring into the frame. A cheaper kind of transparent soap is made with tallow and rosin soap dissolved in alcohol, and can be made in two ways : first, by the process already given for transparent soap, by distillation of the excess of alcohol ; second, by having the soap of tallow and rosin; which should be a boiled soap, cut, milled and dried, and to each pound, put into a vessel with MISCELLANEOUS SOAPS. 299 cover and insert into a water-bath, adding 1 pint of strong alcohol, and when dissolved put into a frame and allow to remain for a few days to harden. Fig. 47. Still and water-bath for transparent soaps. Wash Balls or Savonettes.. These spherical lumps of soap have been long in use, and have had a large sale, and are still in demand. Nearly all the second quality soaps of which we have given the formulas can be moulded into that form, though they are usually made from the mottled or marbled or the transparent soap. They are made by a very simple instrument of glass or metal, being a cup of suitable size, with sharp cutting rim, which, being held in the right hand, while the lump of soap is in the palm of the left, is passed over the surface of the lump, cutting the uneven surface in all direc- tions, leaving a perfectly round lump in the hand. Of course it may require some practice to be expert 300 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. at it, for they have to be of uniform size, but the process is simple and soon acquired. The variegated or marbled soap in red and blue veins has the handsomest appearance in these globes of soap, and these veins are usually given to the soap while in the frame, as previously described, red being made with vermilion and blue with ultramarine. The perfume is generally a mixture of sassafras, thyme, and cloves, though, of course, the toilet soap-maker can have them of any color and perfume he desires ; but fine soaps are seldom seen in this form. CHAPTER XXIV. MILLING AND MOULDING TOILET SOAPS. TOILET soaps are much improved by the amount of labor bestowed upon their manufacture, and to this is due much of the superiority they have over the common soaps, the ingredients being much the same ; and as I have remarked of the old brown Windsor, so generally admired, its good qualities lie in the frequency of its melting and drying, and the labor in its manufacture; so that when the maker of toilet soaps has supplied himself with a stock of white, palm, half-palm, and cocoa-nut oil soaps, he may produce by means of labor, color, and perfume any soap he requires. Besides the machinery and implements already given, it will be necessary to have a stripper to shave up the soap into thin shreds, and a mill to grind it and thoroughly mix all the colors and perfumes. MILLING AND MOULDING TOILET SOAPS. 301 iff. 48. Soap cutter or stripper. A stripping machine (Fig. 48) consists of A. The cutter. B. Iron shaft which traverses the centre of the cutter, with a handle, C, to give it motion. D D. Frame upon which the cutter rests. E. Inclined plane of wood on which the bar of soap, F, is slid towards the cutter. Gr. Box to receive the cut soap. The bar of soap, being put upon the inclined plane, as the cutter revolves, is shaved into small shavings and falls into the box below, and being mixed with the color or perfume is put into the hopper of the mill to be" thoroughly combined. A milling machine (Fig. 49) consists of A A. Frame of iron which supports the machine. B B B. Cylinders of granite or iron to grind the soap. C. Crank and fly-wheel, to give motion to the machine; with power, a pulley is put in its stead. D. A scraper formed of a large blade of steel, and fixed against the last cylinder to scrape the soap from it. 302 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. Fig. 49. (Soap mill. E. Large wooden box (zinc lined) to receive the crushed soap. F. Hopper to receive the shavings of soap and give them to the cylinders. These machines save a great deal of labor, as be- fore their use it was customary to shave up the soap with a plane or knife, and remelt it with the colors and perfumes to efiect a combination of the ingre- dients. The soap, being shaved up and ground in the pro- portions required of white soap, palm soap, half- palm soap, or cocoa-nut oil soap, as the formula calls for, can, when in the boxes, be mixed with the suit- able color and perfume, and put into the hopper of the mill and run through a sufficient number of times to form a perfectly homogeneous paste. When the soap is made to suit, it is next formed into rough pieces of suitable weight for the mould, and of somewhat similar form to the intended cake. This is usually done by hand, and is called plotting, and in large laboratories it is usual to have a machine for the purpose. These plotting machines are of MILLING AND MOULDING TOILET SOAPS. 303 various forms, and are used for pushing out the soap through an orifice of suitable size and cutting off the cake of soap as it exudes, which falling on an endless belt is carried into a receiver. When the cakes are plotted into some shape suitable for the mould, and weighing about 20 per cent, more to al- low for drying, they are placed on the racks to dry ; these racks are made of strips of poplar or beach- wood, and so arranged that the air can reach all parts of the soap. Fig. 37 gives an idea of a suit- able rack. After the pieces of soap have dried a few days they can be moulded, which is done in several kinds of forms. Figure 34 shows a lever press which, for small cakes, is the most expeditious. Figure 50 shows a screw press that has great power, and is suitable for moulding the largest cakes. Fig. 50. Screw press for toilet soaps. A A. Platform to support the press. B B. Strong oak board used to receive the press. C C. Frame of the press. 304 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. D. Screw provided with groove to receive the upper shell of the mould. E E is the fly, surmounted with balls at each end. F F. Cast-iron matrix to receive the two dies. G. Brass mould of two pieces. H H. Rods adapted by means of screws to a hori- zontal bar below E E, which passes under the matrix and raises the rod L after each pressure, and raises the lower shell of the mould, when the cake can be taken from the mould and another substituted to be pressed into form. There are still other implements needed to com- plete the list, as : A pair or two of scales to weigh the soap in bulk and in small cakes of different sizes. Several tables to hold the different tools and to work upon. A marble mortar of good capacity. Two or three other mortars of wedgwood and glass. Sieves, pallet-knives, trays to hold the moulded soap, gradu- ated measures for measuring liquids, etc. etc. In moulding the plotted cakes into the required form, they are taken after they have become suffi- ciently dry, and with the hands dipped into alcohol and rubbed to take off the white spots and clean them for the mould, and prevent their sticking to the dies ; and if the cakes are too soft, salt and water are used to prevent their sticking in the moulds. If the soap is of fine quality it may still be neces- sary to let it dry a few days more after moulding, when it is again rubbed with a piece of soft rag and alcohol, and put into neat boxes or into wrappers. The soaps that can be made by this process of milling are innumerable, and it would be impossible to give them all, so I shall only give the most popu- lar and best known, as MILLING AND MOULDING TOILET SOAPS. 305 Bouquet Soap. White soap . . . .50 pounds. Half-palm soap . . .50 10 ounces of powdered gamboge to color, and add to perfume it Oil of bergamot .... 8 ounces. " cloves . . . . 2 " " thyme . . . . 4 " rosemary . . . 4 neroli . . . . 2 " The soap is first stripped, then milled, and then the color and perfume are mixed in the box, when it is run through the mill several times until perfectly uniform in color, when it is plotted, dried, and moulded as directed ; and these directions apply to all the following formulas : * Rose Soap. White soap (cold or boiled) . 50 pounds. Cacoa-nut oil . . .50 To color take 12 ounces of French vermilion. To perfume take Oil of rose 3 ounces. " bergamot. . . . 4 " cloves .... 1 neroli . . . . 1 " " cinnamon (true) . . 1 Marshmallow Soap. Palm soap (boiled or cold soap) . 50 pounds. White " " "* . 50 " 20 306 PERFUMERY AND KIXDRED ARTS. Color with tincture of armotto. Perfume with Oil of lavender . ... 4 ounces. " lemon . . . . 2 " lemon-grass . . .2 peppermint . . .2 " petit-grain . . . 2 " Elder Flower Soap. Half-palm soap .... 100 pounds. Color with tincture of annotto and ultramarine . . . q. s. Perfume with Oil of bergamot . . .4 ounces. " cassia . . . . 1| " " lavender . . . 3| " petit-grain . . .1 " almonds . . . . 1 u It is quite common now to add to soap an emol- lient substance, such as rice-flour, corn-meal, or oat- meal, from the softness these meals give to the skin, .and especially to the hands. Oatmeal Socyi. White soap . . . .50 pounds. Half-palm soap . . . . 20 " Cocoa-nut oil soap . . .13 Oatmeal (coarse ground) . . 12 After stripping the soap the meal is sieved in and moistened with water, to allow for the dryness of the meal. For cleaning the, dirt from the hands of mechanics .and others, sand is incorporated into soap; also MILLING AND MOULDING TOILET SOAPS. 307 powdered pumice-stone, making poncine soap ; and also sawdust, etc. etc. These ingredients are best added to the melted soap, for they would be likely to injure the mill. They can be added to the finished soap in the frame, sufficient water being added to give a proper consistency to it. Erasive $oop, for removing Grease Spots from Clothes. Cocoa-nut oil soap . . .20 pounds. Melt and add 1 quart of water to make it fluid, when 10 pounds of dried and powdered fuller's earth are stirred in, and when mixed allowed to cool in the frame. Add perfume if desired, such as oil of sassa- fras, cloves, lavender, or thyme. The honey and glycerine soaps are, as I have be- fore said, usually made solid in the frame. SOAPS BY PATENT PROCESSES. New processes for making soaps are being con- stantly invented, involving the use of new patented machinery ; the products being more or less perfect. That of Messrs. Hodgson and Hoi den is very inge- nious, and causes a combination of the materials by means of steam injected into a cylinder of iron, the steam-pipe passing through its centre, which is per- forated with holes for the escape of the steam while the cylinder revolves. The action of the steam during the revolution of the cylinder produces a complete combination and saponification of the mate- rials, and is said to produce a very satisfactory result; though I cannot see how the degree of moisture injected with the steam can be regulated, and the 308 PERFUMERY AND KINDRED ARTS. soap made with this apparatus must, therefore, be of a very uncertain consistence. A much better invention is that of Messrs. Bennet and Gibbs, in which carbonated alkali is made to combine with the oils or greases in a similar iron cylinder under the influence of heat and high steam pressure, with agitation to cause a thorough mixture of the ingredients, and produces a very fair soap, containing all the glycerine. The oils or greases, in the proportion of 100 pounds to about 34 pounds of carbonate of soda or soda ash, and 100 pounds of water, are put into an iron cylinder of great strength, and the heat is raised sufficiently to cause a pressure of 350 to 400 pounds to the square inch. A revolving shaft like that of a churn is kept in motion for about an hour, the heat being kept as regular as possible, or at least the pressure uniform. By this means the combination will be very complete; and in the pre- paration of toilet soaps, when the proportion of alkali, oils, and water is very accurately calculated, this mode of manipulation should be very effective, and, like the soap made by the cold process, would contain all the glycerine. This apparatus might also be effectively used in making soaps to simulate Marseilles soaps from the cotton-seed oil, as shown in Chapter XXI. APPENDIX. SECTION I. SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES THEIR FLAVORS AND COLORS. "WiTH our rapid march in the arts of civilization and wealth we naturally look for all our surroundings to improve in an equal ratio. "While in our earlier days we may have been satisfied with the ordinary kinds of candies and confectionery, not knowing there were better to be had, or finer qualities made, but when in going abroad w.e see and taste the pro- ducts of other countries ; we naturally ask why our own people, having equal advantages, do not en- deavor to improve their productions, and if not excel at least rival the Europeans in this useful business? For while we have access to all the different ingre- dients they use, it would seem to be nothing but carelessness or indifference, or a dread of innovation upon established methods to prevent this necessary improvement in this art or trade, as in almost all others we endeavor to rival and often do excel our foreign instructors. In the matter of color for candies, bon-bons, and other confections, the makers are often criminally careless, as there are some who are unprincipled enough, or perhaps through ignorance, use many 310 APPENDIX. colors that are mineral and often very deleterious. Many a mother grieves over a sick child, wondering at the cause of its nausea and fever, and its disgust of wholesome food, when a little observation would discover the evil to originate in the apparently inno- cent stick of candy given it the day before ; which candy may have had lead, tin, mercury, or even arse- nic or copper in the handsome color that attracted her at the time of purchasing it. It is not my desire to cause needless alarm, but to call the proper attention of intelligent people to a subject that has called forth much attention in Eng- land and on the continent, where penal laws have been enacted to prohibit the use of poisonous ingredients in candies, and other articles used as food and drink, as we often read of alum and other drugs being put in bread, and litharge, sugar of lead, and red precipi- tate in wine, arsenic and mix vomica in beer, etc. It is certainly criminal to sell poison to the innocent purchaser who thinks he is getting wholesome food, and it is but just that a proper punishment should be meted out to the offender. This offence in the confectioner is particularly criminal, as in coloring and flavoring his candies he can procure all the colors that he needs, and gene- rally of vegetable origin, and entirely free from any deleterious influence whatever, and which would cost but little more than his pernicious ingredients. Confining myself to a limited space in treating this subject, I will not be able to give full details for any one to manufacture these colors, for it requires a knowledge of chemistry, and costly apparatus to do so, but knowing from my own experiments the perfect feasibility of making all necessary colors from SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES. 311 harmless substances, I have thought it proper to com- ment upon it here, and more particularly as I per- ceive that Mr. Otto Luthy, an experienced chemist of Philadelphia, is now manufacturing a complete line of these vegetable colors and carmines especially prepared for the use of confectioners, liquor dealers, etc., which are submitted to full analytical test to prove them perfectly harmless. Although I think this subject of such importance, I cannot dw T ell longer upon it, but shall take every opportunity to call the attention of my readers and the public to the abuse referred to, and also to secure if possible proper legislation upon it. The object of this chapter is to give formulas for syrups and jellies and fruit flavors, and I am digress- ing in occupying so much space on the colors, but my readers will see the occasion for it. The artificial fruit flavors for syrups and candies I do not consider dangerous or unwholsome, for they have been used for twenty odd years in candy and syrup without ever having any ill effects. Although they are not so pleasant as the natural fruit, yet they can be used where the fruit could not be obtained, and are an excellent substitute, and are often iden- tically analogous in their chemical constituents, al- though compounded from such divers substances. I do not suppose the perfumer or apothecary will care to make these artificial flavors, as they are made much better and cheaper by the manufacturing chemist ; therefore, it is unnecessary to give the formulas for their preparation, for they are intricate, and they require appropriate chemical apparatus. Apple essence is chemically the solution of valeri- anate of ethyloxide. 312 APPENDIX. Quince essence is a spiritous solution of the pelar- ginate of ethyloxide. Pear oil is the alcoholic solution of the acetate of amyloxide. Pineapple oil is the spiritous solution of the buty- rate of ethyloxide. All of these so-called oils are merely ethers de- rived from organic substances by the chemical action of acids and salts, and to give instructions for their manufacture would occupy much space, nor do I think it would be profitable to make them in a small way, and it would be more economical to purchase the assortment properly prepared for the purposes of the maker of syrups and flavors. There are also prepared by many chemists what are called pure fruit juices, but which are seldom genuine, and when pure, have undergone some pro- cess by heat or otherwise that impairs their pleasant- ness of flavor; so whenever the pharmacist has the opportunity of procuring the fresh fruit it is im- measurably superior in delicacy of taste to any arti- ficial or so-called pure fruit juices which are often only a dilute syrup artificially flavored, with a little glycerine added to preserve them from spoiling. Therefore let him make genuine fruit syrups from the fresh fruits, which can be prepared in concen- trated form in this manner, say Strawberry Syrup. Fresh strawberries . . .12 quarts. Sugar (crushed) . . .20 pounds. Water . . . . .4 pints. Put the strawberries in some, convenient earthen vessel in layers with 10 pounds of the sugar; let SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES. 313 them rest until the next day, when they will be found melted by the absorption of their juice by the sugar; stir well and strain through a coarse strong cloth, reserving the mark, into which stir the 4 pints of water and strain again ; mix the liquids ; put into a kettle, and as the mixture becomes warm add the re- maining 10 pounds of sugar, when boil gently, take off the scum that rises and strain through a fine cloth. This will make about a gallon of concen- trated syrup, which will bear diluting with an equal measure of simple syrup, made in the proportion of 2 pounds of crushed sugar to a pint of water. In this manner can be made all other needed fruit syrups, such as Blackberry syrup. Cherry syrup. Pineapple syrup. Peach syrup. Raspberry syrup, etc. etc. The syrup of banana will have to be made with the artificial flavor similar to that given with the flavor- ing extracts. Simple syrup .... 1 gallon. Extract of banana . . .1 ounce. Citric acid i " Lemon Syrup. Extract of lemon . . . 1| ounce. Citric acid 2 Simple syrup . . .1 gallon. 314 APPENDIX. Orange Syrup. Extract of orange . . Citric acid Tincture of saffron . . Simple syrup ... Catawla Syrup. Catawba wine . . . Citric acid . . . . Simple syrup . .. Coffee Syrup. Extract of coffee . . Simple syrup . .. Rose Syrup. Extract of rose . . Liq. carmine . . . Simple syrup ... 2 ounces. 1 " i 1 gallon. 1 quart. 1 ounce. 1 gallon. 4 ounces. 1 gallon. 2 ounces. q. s. 1 gallon. Orgeat Syrup. Blanched sweet almonds . Crushed sugar . Water .... Simple syrup Extract of bitter almonds . Orange-flower water . Beat the almonds to a pulp with the water; strain the milk thus made, and add the other ingredients, and strain. 2 pounds. 2 1| pint. 6J " \ ounce. 2 " SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES. 315 Sarsaparilla Syrup. Simple syrup . . .1 gallon. Oil of sassafras .... 1 drachm. " aniseed . . . . \ " ganltheria ... 1 Caramel to color . . . q. s. Syrup of gum Arabic to make it froth . . . . . q. s. The sarsaparilla syrups for drinking and soda waters are so only in name and flavor, none of the medicine entering into them; though if the syrup slightly medicated be needed, it may be made as follows : Sarsaparilla Syrup. Sarsaparilla root, bruised . .1 pound. Liquorice " " . 1 " Sassafras bark, " . . \ Water . . . . .2 gallons. Sugar . . . . .20 pounds. Boil gently and strain off 12 pints, and make into syrup, when flavor with Oil of sassafras ..... | ounce. aniseed . . .5 " gaultheria . J Sherbet Syrup. Banana essence or extract . . 1 ounce. Sherry wine ... .1 pint. Simple syrup . . . . 6 " 316 APPENDIX. Vanilla Syrup. Extract of vanilla . . . Bounces. Simple syrup .... 1 gallon. Cream Syrup Can be made of fresh cream, in the proportion of 1J pounds of sugar to 1 pint of cream ; or, if the cream cannot be had, a syrup can be made of the almond milk, as directed in orgeat syrup. The bottlers of soda-water cannot well afford syrups so concentrated. They are accustomed to use a syrup with less sugar, say 12 pounds of sugar to 1 gallon of water ; and the three most used are lemon, ginger, and sarsaparilla. Lemon Syrup. (For bottlers of soda-water.) Essence of lemon . . .1 pint. Tartaric acid ... .1 pound. Simple syrup . . . .15 gallons. Ginger Syrup. (For bottlers of soda-water.) Essence of ginger . . .1 pint. Simple syrup . . . .10 gallons. Sarsaparilla Syrup. (For bottlers of soda-water.) Syrup 10 gallons. Caramel . . . . .1 pint. Oil of sassafras .... 1 ounce, aniseed . . . . J " gaultheria . . J " SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES. 317 Raspberry Syrup. (For bottlers ) Extract of raspberry (artificial) 1 pint. Tartaric acid ... .1 pound. Syrup 25 gallons. Liq. carmine to color . . q. s. And in this manner can the bottler of soda-water make any artificial fruit syrups, or any other syrup, from the formulas given. Raspberry Vinegar. Fresh raspberries . . .12 quarts. Acetic acid (from sugar) . .10 ounces. Water . . . . .10 pints. Crushed sugar . . . .25 pounds. Mix the acetic acid with the water and stir with the fruit ; let it rest for twenty-four hours ; strain through hair sieve or coarse cloth, and boil with the sugar; skim and strain; let it boil gently. This process yields a very superior article, which will keep well and retain its natural flavor. For an ordinary syrup for the soda fountain, add a pint of white wine vinegar to a gallon of raspberry syrup, natural or artificial. Fruit Jellies. The making of jelly from fruit has some peculiari- ties that may well be mentioned, as in unskilful hands the product is not very good, either to the palate or the eye, from the fact of the improper boil- ing of the fruit juices with sugar, as a chemical change often takes place in the conversion of cane sugar into grape sugar by contact with the acid and the aid of heat. In making, as an example, 318 APPENDIX. Currant Jelly , Let the juice be extracted from the fruit by pres- sure, and to each pint of juice add two pounds of crushed sugar; and when the sugar is dissolved, and it has come to a gentle boil, it is finished, and can be strained through flannel and put up in jars or glasses. And so with nearly all fruits of an acid nature, long boiling or insufficient sugar will injure them and alter their flavor. There are now many of these jellies used for medicinal purposes, and they call for the attention of the pharmacist. In making the fruit jellies from the artificial flavors it is necessary for the manufacturer to have recourse to gelatine, to supply the mucilage usual in all fruits. Therefore, to 'each quart of jelly, an ounce of Cooper's or other good gelatine is first dissolved in the water and strained, and then the sugar added in the propor- tion of 2 pounds to the pint of liquid, when the flavor and required color can be added. For instance Quince Jelly. Sugar . . . . .8 pounds. Quince essence . . 1 ounce. Water . . . . .4 pints. Gelatine . . . . .2 ounces. Liq. carmine . . . J ** Citric acid . . . . 1 " To the 4 pints of water add the gelatine ; let it stand twelve hours, then heat to dissolve, and strain; boil the sugar with the water to see if perfectly clear, when remove from the fire, and as it cools dissolve the acid in it and put in the quince essence, and color, when it can be put up in jars. In coloring be careful to give one appropriate to the name of the jelly. SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES. 319 Fruit Acid. Citric acid . Pure water 8 ounces. 8 In frequent use for flavoring and for syrups. Kissengen Water Chloride of sodium Bicarbonate of soda . Sulphate of soda Phosphate of soda Muriate of ammonia . Carbonate of magnesia Sulphate of magnesia . Water . pint to 10 gallons C. A. water, Vichy Water. Sulphate of potash Chloride^ of soda Sulphate Carbonate " Phosphate " Carbonate of ammonia Water . pint to 10 gallons C. A. water Seidlitz Water. Chloride of soda Carbonate " Sulphate " Chloride of lime Water . pint in 10 gallons C. A. water. . 8 ounces. . 2 drachms, . 2 . 15 grains. . 5 " . \ ounce. . 2 " . 2| pints. . 3 drachms. . ounces. . | drachm. . 10 grains. . 3 pints. 3 ounces. 1 2 " 1 drachm. 2 pints. 320 APPENDIX. Spa Water. Chloride of soda . . .2 ounces. Carbonate " . 1 " Sulphate of magnesia . . 2 " Sulphate of iron . . .30 grains. Water 2 pints. | pint to 10 gallons C. A. water. Saratoga Water. Chloride of soda . . .4 ounces. Bicarbonate " . 1 " Iodide . . .20 grains. Bromide of potash . . . 10 " Carbonate of magnesia . . 2 ounces. Carbonate of iron . . .30 grains. "Water 2| pints. \ pinjt to 10 gallons C. A. water. These imitations of the spring waters are usually put into a 10-gallon fountain, and* charged in the usual manner with the carbonic acid gas. SECTION" II. LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. THIS subject should be treated scientifically, and to some extent must be to enable a practical person to understand the nature of the ingredients needed to manipulate the many pleasant and useful articles in the catalogue of a complete apothecary store ; arti- LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. 321 cles now looked for and generally kept in all well- conducted establishments, and they should be of bet- ter quality and character than those found among the lower class of liquor dealers. On the subject of fermentation and distillation a large volume might be written without exhausting it, for it has occupied the minds of men for many cen- turies. Osiris among the Egyptians, Bacchus among the Greeks, and Noah among the Jews, according to tradition, taught man the art of cultivating the grape, and the making of wine, but they knew nothing of the science or the causes of alcoholic fermentation, for it is scarcely more than a century since chemistry discovered its true causes under the genius and labor of Lavoisier, who was the first to establish the fact that sugar, or substances capable of being formed into sugar, were alone capable of entering into spirit- ous fermentation. If sugar be dissolved in an excess of water, and excluded from the air, it will remain without change, but if air be admitted it is decomposed, becoming brown and sour as aceteous fermentation ensues. If, however, any organic substance be brought into con- tact with it, being in a state of change, the sugar will participate in the process : blood, glue, white of egg, or flesh that has begun to putrefy, will excite fermentation, but yeast is the most remarkable ; vege- table albumen, gluten, liquorice, and substances that exist in all fruits, contain large quantities of nitrogen. Thus, when fruit is crushed, the sugar of the juice in contact with the albumen or gluten and exposed to the air absorbs oxygen rapidly, and the sugar passes into fermentation actively, and alcohol is formed. 21 322 APPENDIX. Oxygen is necessary at the commencement of the decomposition, which, once begun, extends through- out the mass without requiring an} 7 further action from the air. This is what may be called a natural fermentation. The fermentation of yeast may be called an artificial fermentation. The starch of the grain is converted into sugar by the action of heat and moisture, and the malt thus made is infused in water, and allowed to ferment, when the yeast is pre- cipited, and if purified will be found to be a grayish- yellow granular substance without taste or smell, in- soluble in water or alcohol, though the former when warm takes. up about ^th of it. A solution of pure sugar which has been made to ferment by the addition of yeast furnishes no new yeast, but there remains, after the process, a portion of that originally mixed in an altered inoperative condition, should the quantity be exactly adequate to the decomposition of the sugar, or in an operative state should the quantity have been originally exces- sive. But if the fermentative liquor contain vegetable albumen or gluten or both, as is usually the case with the sweet juices of fruits, these substances become changed into ferments in the course of the fermenta- tion induced by the yeast, and being superfluous, so to speak, they remain entire at the end, and can be collected and used in another operation. On this principle is founded the increased produc- tion of yeast, which can be done artificially in this manner: Take two parts of barley malt and one of wheat flour, and stir into six parts of water until thoroughly mixed, put upon a slow fire until the tem- perature is at 160 Fahr., when sugar will form, then LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. 323 pour into a flat dish, and when cooled down to 60 Fahr. stir in a gill of good beer yeast, which will soon cause brisk fermentation. This makes a good yeast for bakers' or family use, and which, if kept in a cool place, will keep good and active for ten days or more. There are so many fruits grown in our country, which are frequently abundant and cheap, and nearly all of which will make good wines if properly gath- ered and manipulated, that it is very desirable to know something about the processes for making them. I have made most excellent wines from blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, currants, elderberries, pie- plant or rhubarb, and many native grapes of different kinds. It would occupy too much space to give the processes for all of them, but when I describe one it will serve as a guide to all. Blackberry Wine. To each quart of blackberries put a half pound of pure sugar, and let it stand a day, when strain through a hair sieve, and for each pint of juice take a pint of warm water, and pour over the marc from the first straining, when strain again to get all the substance of the berries ; mix the juices and put into a barrel or keg, and when it begins to ferment, put into the cellar for equality of temperature, which should be about 66 Fahr. Let the keg be nearly full, so that the froth may run from the bung, which will carry off a great deal of the impurities ; let it also be kept perfectly quiet. If there be any tendency to become sour, add a little strong syrup. When the fermenta- tion has ceased, bung it up tight, or if possible rack it off from the lees into another keg, and stop it per- 324 APPENDIX. fectly tight, and keep it until mid-winter, when it can be bottled or drunk as desired. Should the wine be sound and of good flavor, it is advisable to put into each bottle an ounce of syrup, unless it be already sweet. When grapes are used let them be gathered when perfectly ripe, and in clear weather, and all the un- ripe and imperfect berries be picked from them. Press out the juice, and put into a keg or barrel com- pletely full, and keep in a cool, quiet place with the bung out, so that as the fermentation proceeds the froth will exude, and can be kept full by adding syrup or more juice when the fermentation ceases, and if the wine be not sour bung it up, and keep it some months before bottling. It is always best to rack it off if it be convenient, and in bottling to add a little syrup to each bottle. JKaisin Wine. A very good wine can be made of raisins, and in England much of the port that they so much affect is made of them, flavored with elderberries and colored to suit. To 50 pounds of good raisins cleaned from stalks and dirt, cut or crushed, but not washed, put about 12 gallons of soft water, keep it about the temperature of 70 Fahr. ; in about two weeks let the wine be separated by straining into a keg with 1 gallon of syrup, and half a pound of cream of tartar. After a month's rest let it be racked off and put in the cellar. If wanted to imitate port wine put into it about 4 pints of elderberry or prune juice. Should it not ferment promptly, add a gill of good LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. 325 yeast, and should there be a tendency to sour add some rectified spirit. Raisins also make a good London Sherry. Raisins . . . . .50 pounds. Water . . . . .10 gallons. Cider . . . . . . 5 " Syrup ...... \ Argols . . . . . | pound. Wild-cherry bark . . . \ " Rectified spirit . . 1 pint. The process is much the same as above given for raisin wine. Champagne Wine. Cider (sound and good) . . 10 gallons. Sugar ...... 5 pounds. Argols, white . . . . J " Tincture of orris . . . J Rectified spirit . . . 4 pints. . . . . 4< Acetic ether . ... 1 ounce. This is bottled before fermentation ceases with an ounce of simple syrup to each bottle, and well corked and tied with wire. To imitate Burgundy Wine. Raisins, crushed (good) . . 5 pounds. Cider ...... 10 gallons. Red tartar . . . . . ^ pound. Tincture of rhatany . . . J Sugar . . ' . . . 3 " Let it fill the keg and be kept at a moderate tem- perature of about 70 with a rag over the bung hole 326 APPEXDIX. to keep out insects. "When the fermentation has ceased let it be racked off, bunged up, and add one ounce of essence of bitter almonds, and put away for some weeks or months if convenient. To imitate Malaga Wine. Good raisins (crushed) . . 10 pounds. Cider (good) . . . .10 gallons. Rectified spirit . . | Syrup I Elder flowers . . \ pound. Acetic ether ... .1 ounce. Proceed as for Burgundy, and color with a little caramel. To imitate Claret Wine. Cider (good and sound) . . 10 gallons. Rectified spirit . . . . 1 " Tincture of rhatany . . . \ pint. orris root . . \ " Tartaric acid .... 2 ounces. Proceed as for the Burgundy wine. Champagne Cider. Cider, good and sound . . 10 gallons. Syrup. . l Rectified spirit . . . .2 pints. Argols 2 ounces. Let it stand twenty-four hours, and bottle, adding to each bottle a drachm of bicarbonate of potash ; cork well and wire. LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. 327 To imitate Cider. Apple essence .... 2 ounces. Sugar ...... 6 pounds. "Water . . . . .10 gallons. Yeast 1 gill. Put into a keg with bung out, and in a warm place. Do not put the bung in till fermentation ceases. Ginger Ale. Syrup ...... 2 gallons. Extract of Jamaica ginger . 8 ounces. "Water . . . . .4 gallons. Tartaric acid . . . . 4 ounces. Yeast 1 gill. Let it ferment a few days, and bottle after fermen- tation ceases. Spruce Beer. Molasses 1 gallon. Water '5 " Essence of spruce (heavy) . 4 ounces. Yeast 1 gill. Let it ferment a little before bottling. Hoot Beer. Lignum root (bruised) . . 2 pounds. Sassafras bark .... 1 Molasses 1 gallon. Water 5 Yeast ...... 1 gill- Boil the root and bark in the water, strain, and add the molasses ; let it ferment, and add a little oil of wintergreen. 328 APPENDIX. Mead. Honey l gallon. Light-brown sugar . . .4 pounds. Water . . . . .6 gallons. Essence of lemon . . . \ ounce. Essence of almonds . . . \ " Yeast 1 gill. Let the flavors be rubbed up with a portion of the sugar, when mix and ferment as for the spruce beer. Pineapple Cider Can be made like the imitation cider, using the pine- apple essence instead of the apple. To make an imitation of Cognac Brandy. Rectified spirits (proof) . . 10 gallons. French oil of cognac . . . 1 drachm. Tincture of orris . . .4 ounces. Acetic ether . . . 2 " Tincture of vanilla . . . 1 " Caramel, to color . . . q. s. Let the spirit be pure and thoroughly rectified, and the oil of cognac dissolved in a little strong alcohol before mixing with the spirit. Let the whole stand a month before using. To imitate Apple Brandy. Rectified spirits . . . .10 gallons. Glycerine . . . . .4 ounces. Tartaric acid . . . . 2 " Apple essence . . . . 1 " Syrup . . . . .1 pint. LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WIXES, ETC. 329 To imitate Holland Gin. Rectified spirits . . . .10 gallons. Spirit 2 pints. Glycerine . . . . . \ " Spirits of nitrous ether . i " Oil of juniper (fresh and pure) . 1 ounce. Alcohol 1 pint. Dissolve the oil in the alcohol, and add it to the other mixed ingredients ; let it rest a month before using. To imitate Jamaica Bum. Rum essence (ether) . . .1 ounce. Glycerine 8 " Rectified spirits . . . .10 gallons. Caramel, to color . . . q. s. Baume de Vie. (Balsam of Life.) Rhubarb root .... 2 ounces. Aloes 1 Gentian . . 1 " Saffron | " ^ Agaric 1 " Zedory 1 " Rectified spirit .... 2 gallons. Let the ingredients be bruised, and macerate with the spirit two or three weeks, when filter. An excel- lent tonic aperient, given in a dose of a wineglass- ful. 330 APPENDIX. To make a good . Wine Bitters. Bruised gentian root . . .8 ounces, orange-peel . . .4 " cardamom seed . . 1 " grains of paradise . . 1 " cinnamon . . . 1 " " sp. saffron . . . 1 " cloves . . . . 1 u Rectified spirits . ... 5 gallons. Simple syrup . . . . \ " Macerate the spirits with the ingredients for two or three weeks, filter, and add the syrup. Aromatic Herb Bitters. Lemon-peel ... .4 ounces. Orange-peel . . . . 2 " Angelica-peel . . . . | " Orris-peel . . . . . J " Aniseed i " Cardamom seed . . . . \ " Allspice . . . . . \ " Cloves i " Cinnamon i " Sage . i " & 2 Marjoram . . . . i " Ger. camomile . . . . \ " Caramel, to color . . . q. s. Rectified spirits . . . . 4| gallons. Syrup . i " Let the whole macerate together for a month, when filter. LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WIXES, ETC. 331 LIQUORS AND CORDIALS. Essence cPAbsintlie. Wormwood herb . . .1 pound. Oil of wormwood . . . J ounce. Simple syrup . \ gallon. Eectified spirits . . . . 2| " Put the finely divided herb with the spirits for two weeks, filter, and add the oil dissolved in \ pint of alcohol ; add the syrup, and color green with a few currant leaves. Aniseed Cordial. (Huile d' Anisette.) Oil of star aniseed . . . J ounce. Syrup ...... 1 gallon. Eectified spirits . . .2 Tr. saffron . . . . .1 drachm. Cinnamon Cordial. (Huile de Cannella.) Oil of Ceylon cinnamon . . 35 drops. Extract of rose . . \ ounce. Syrup . . . . .1 gallon. Eectified spirits .... 2 Caramel, to color . . . q. s. Clove Cordial. (Huile d' QEilett.) Oil of cloves . . . .20 drops. " Ceylon cinnamon . . 5 " Syrup 3 quarts. Eectified spirits .... 2 Caramel, to color . . . q. s. 332 APPENDIX. Curagoa Cordial. Oil of bitter orange . . . \ ounce. neroli . ... | drachm. Ceylon cinnamon . . 5 drops. Syrup 1 gallon. Rectified spirits . . . .2 Tincture of saifron . . . | ounce. Ginger Cordial. Extract of ginger . . .2 ounces. Syrup ...... | gallon. Rectified spirits . . . 1| " Caramel, to color . . . q. s. Mint Cordial. (Huile de Minthe.) Oil of peppermint . . . \ ounce. Alcohol . . . . .1 pint. Syrup . . . . 5 " Rectified spirits . . . . 10 " Color light-green. Orange- Flower Cordial. Oil of neroli petals . . .1 drachm. bitter orange . . . 1 " Alcohol . . . . . 1 pint. Syrup 1 gallon. Tincture of saifron . . . | ounce. Rectified spirits . . . 1| gallons. LIQUORS, CORDIALS, DOMESTIC WINES, ETC. 333 Perfect Lone Cordial. Extract of cloves lemon rose . " nutmegs . Syrup Rectified spirits . | ounce. 2 " JL .1 " 1 gallon. Noyau Cordial. (Huile de 2foyau.) Oil of bitter almonds . . .1 drachm. neroli petals bitter orange . Alcohol .... Syrup .... Rectified spirits . i 2 1 2 1 pint. 1 gallon. Pineapple Cordial. Pineapple, extract Extract of lemon Syrup Rectified spirits . Rose Cordial. Extract of rose . Syrup Rectified spirits . Color with liquid carmine light red. 2 ounces. l " 1 gallon. 2 ounces. 1 gallon. Strawberry Cordial. (Ratafia de Frambois.) Juice of fresh strawberries . 1 pint. Syrup \ gallon. Rectified spirits . \ Color with liquid carmine . . q. s. 334 APPENDIX. Vanilla Cordial. Extract of vanilla . . .2 ounces. Syrup 1 gallon. Rectified spirits . . . . 1J " Color with caramel . . . q. s. Usquebaugh. (Aromatic cordial.) Oil of cloves . . . 2 drachms. " aniseed .... 1 u " coriander . . . .1 " Extract of ginger . . .1 ounce. Alcohol . . . . .1 pint. Rectified spirits . . . . 1| gallon. Syrup 1 " Caramel to color q. s. Mum Shrub. Extract of orange . . .1 ounce. " lemon . . . 1 " Citric acid 1 " Syrup . . . . .1 quart. Jamaica rum . . . . 2| gallons. .Caramel to color . . . q. s. Vinegar. Vinegar can be made from so many things that economy can be practised in having a simple appara- tus to make it. In a keg or barrel arrange a false bottom with a number of holes bored in it. Place it three or four inches from the bottom, tapping it at that part for spigot. Break up charcoal about the size of walnuts, fill the keg or barrel half full, bore small holes of about a quarter of an inch all around PERFUMES FOR SEGARS AOT) TOBACCO. 335 the sides above and within a few inches of the false bottom, slanting them downwards. Break up more charcoal about the size of peas, and nearly fill the vessel, then place a perforated board upon it and a piece of canvas over that so that the liquid can pass slowly and evenly through the charcoal ; lastly fit on a cover over the top. First pass through the barrel a few gallons of good, strong vinegar, then mix 1 pint of whiskey with 12 pints of water, and pass it slowly through, and it will be converted into vinegar by the time it reaches the bottom. The juice of fruit, cider, tomatoes, etc. etc., can all be used for the purpose. The action of the air upon the liquid finely di- vided by the porous substance, and in a warm atmos- phere will soon convert the liquid into vinegar ; the temperature should be about 100 Fahr. Sugar and water, the settlings of molasses barrels, diluted with water, can be used to make this vinegar. Let them stand a few hours, adding a little yeast for fermentation, when pass through your percolator or generator, and they will make excellent vinegar. SECTION III. FLAVORS AND PERFUMES FOR SEGARS AND TOBACCO. TOBACCO, so universally used by savage and civil- ized, from the time of Sir "Walter Ealeigh, in the six- teenth century, is said to have been introduced into Great Britain by him on his return from Virginia. Since that time it seems to have rapidly increased 336 APPENDIX. in use, for at the present time it is one of the greatest articles of commerce, as the United States and the "West Indies produce annually nearly 500,000,000 of pounds, and it is estimated that the consumption of that amount of vegetable material by combustion would produce 5,000,000,000 pounds of carbonic acid gas ; a large contribution to the constant demand upon the atmosphere for that valuable gas by the vegetation of the world. In the analysis of tobacco leaves there are found nicotine, gum, malic acid, resin, albumen, malate of ammonia, sulphate of potassa, chloride of potassa, phosphate of lime, starch, silica, etc. Nicotine is the peculiar active principle, and is an exceedingly powerful substance, only one part being in a thousand parts of the leaf, but that one part gives the quality to tobacco that causes so much pleasure in its use. Segars, snuffs, and tobacco are generally perfumed and flavored, and particularly the tobaccos that are grown in our Southern States that have a strong nar- cotic flavor when smoked or chewed. The tobacco- nist uses a number of perfumes for his flavoring, the most prominent are Ambergris, Calamus root, Ambrette, Orris root, Benzoin, Tonquin beans, Cedar-wood, Valerian root, Rhodium wood, Cascarilla bark, Santal wood, Vanilla beans, Musk, Tolu, Civet, Storax, Oil of bergamot, Oil of roses, lemon, " cassie, PERFUMES FOB SEGARS AND TOBACCO. 337 Oil of lavender, verbena, " nutmeg, Oil of cloves, " rhodium, rose geranium, etc. The perfumes for snuffs vary according to taste, and are usually a combination of several of these ingre- dients, either in powder, in tincture, or the essential oil. In perfuming a quantity of snuff the perfumes are generally mixed with a small portion of the snuff, and then incorporated into the mass by sieving or other means. The tinctures I have given of almost all of these drugs can be used for this purpose, and are about a suitable strength. Many tobacconists keep a supply of mixed essences to perfume their snuffs to the taste of their customers. Some of them are made by the following formulas : Oil of lemon . . . .1 ounce. cloves . . . . \ " " nutmegs . . . i " Tincture of Tonquin . Or Or Or Oil of bergamot . " lavender . " cloves Tincture of orris Oil of bergamot . " cassia rose geranium Tincture of Tolu Oil of calamus . cinnamon Tincture of Tonquin 22 . 1 pint. . 2 ounces. . 1 " l . 1 pint. . 1 ounce. . 1 drachm. . | ounce. . 1 pint. . \ ounce. . 1 pint. 338 APPENDIX. Or Oil of rose . . . . . | ounce. Tincture of musk . . . 2 " ambergris . . 2 " ambrette. . . 10 " Tonquin . . . 2 " A few drops of any of these essences will perfume a pound of snuff, and from the ingredients given can also be made a powder that can be used in the same manner, though I do not think it so desirable, as it adulterates the snuff more or less. For segars and smoking-tobacco many of these in- gredients can be used, and usually in the form of essence. But when the desire is to improve the flavor of a strong tobacco, and that is the usual ob- ject of a perfume, some other preparation may be useful. As Virginia tobacco and tobacco classed with it contain the most nicotine, and are on that account very strong, it is advisable to steam them by inject- ing steam into a barrel containing the loosely packed leaves. Or it is soaked over night in salted water to extract some of the rank flavor and dark color, and when dry enough to make into segars it can be per- fumed with an essence something like this : Tincture of cascarilla . . . 6 ounces. " Tonquin . . . 4 " Tolu . . . 2 " " orris . . . 2 " " valerian . . . 2 " Oil of nutmegs . . . . \ " " cloves . . . i u " rhodium 1 drachm. PERFUMES FOR SEG-ARS AXD TOBACCO. 339 There are a number of flavors sold called Yara, Havana, or Spanish flavors, that are generally made by procuring the tobacco of fine quality, and making a strong fluid extract or tincture with diluted alcohol, and perfuming with some of the odors I have enume- rated. For chewing-tobacco the use of perfumes is very limited, as many that would be pleasant to the nose and to the palate when burned, are not agreeable in the mouth ; so that the flavor has to be such as is of pleasant taste, such as liquorice and other pleasant drugs. Of the manner of curing and manufacturing tobacco for chewing, I cannot pretend to give parti- culars, as they vary with each manufacturer; each endeavoring to make it of a flavor original or peculiar to himself, or he has a variety, each with its particu- lar name and flavor, by mixing different growths of tobacco and varying the flavor. And here I cannot forbear giving my strong dis- approval of the use of this narcotic herb in any and every form, for although the practice of smoking has become so general among all nations, it really does great harm. Some seek in tobacco-smoke an agreeable narcotism, others imagine it beneficial to their health ; but to most people smoking is merely a dreamy recourse against ennui, which ere long becomes an indispensable stimulant. The filthiness of the habit, the offensive odor which persons under its influence emit from their mouths and clothes, the stupor it often occasions, as well as the sallow complexions, black and carious teeth, and impaired digestion, all prove the great consumption of tobacco to have a most evil influence upon mankind, akin to the dreadful evil of the excessive use of ardent spirits. 340 APPENDIX. SECTION IV. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. FOR measuring liquids, an instrument called an hydrometer is used, which is usually a graduated glass tube, having a hollow bulb towards its lower end, terminating in a smaller bulb weighted with mercury ; the instrument sinks or rises according as the fluid is heavier or lighter than distilled water, which is marked as a standard. That for alkalies has been frequently referred to, and illustrated elsewhere, and gives the approximate strength of the solution of alkalies at the standard temperature of 60 Fahrenheit, and is generally suffi- ciently correct. The alcoholometer, or hydrometer for spirits, is very much the same, except that alcohol, being much lighter than water, the instrument sinks the deeper as the spirit increases in strength. Spirits in the United States are sold by the proof gallon, which contains 50 pe"r cent, of alcohol, and the proof is reckoned from that point, but called 100, but which is really double the strength. Thus, alcohol marked 95 is 90 over proof. The 90 is added to the 100, making 190, and divided in half makes the 95 per cent. There are other and more correct instruments for ascertaining the strength of spirits than the glass hydrometer, but which are much more expensive. That of Gender's is made of silver, and has an accom- WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 341 panying thermometer, graduated with three scales, and graded from the standard of 60 Fahr., showing, as the temperature of the liquid rises or falls from that point, how much to add or to subtract from the degree marked on the hydrometer. For example, suppose the spirit to mark 32 with the hydrometer, and the temperature to mark by the thermometer 6 above the 60 or standard, then the 6 is to be deducted from the 32 indicated by the hydrometer, and shows the spirit to be 26 above proof. If, on the other hand, the thermometer shows 6 below the 60, then the 6 is added to the 32, and the spirit will be 38 above proof. Thus, in the formulas of this work, spirits and alcohol have been given the degrees mentioned as thus above proof, according to these calculations ; and when rectified spirits are called for, proof spirit is intended, and if not at hand can be made of 95 alcohol, in the proportion of 9 parts of alcohol to 7 parts of pure water, using the rectified or Cologne spirits. The terms used for dry measure or weights allude to those used by the apothecary, or a modified Troy weight, as per table. APOTHECARIES' WEIGHT. Pounds. Ounces. Drachms. Scruples. Grains. 3 3 B gr. 1 12 96 288 5760 1 8 24 480 1 3 60 1 20 342 APPENDIX. Gallon. Cong: 1 Pint. APOTHECARIES' MEASURE. Fluidounce. Fluidrachm. 128 16 1 1024 128 8 1 Minim. m 61440 7680 480 60 FRENCH DECIMAL WEIGHTS. Names. Equivalent in grammes. A Milligramme Centigramme Decigramme Gramme .001 .01 .1 1. Decagramme Hectogramme Kilogramme, or Myriagramme 10. 100. Kilo . 1000. . 10000. 2 26 Equivalent in Apothecaries' Weight. oz. dr. gr. 2 3 1 3 1 9 4 1.5 15.4 34. 43. 14. 20. FRENCH DECIMAL MEASURES. Names. Millilitre . Centilitre . Decilitre . Litre Decalitre . Hectolitre . Kilolitre . Myrialitre. Equivalent in litres. .001 .01 .1 1. 10. . 100. , . 1000. ' , 10000. Equivalent in Apothecaries' Measure. 16.2318 minims. 2.7053 fluidounces. 3.3813 flnidrachms. 2.1135 pints. 2.6419 gallons. In all cases in this work, when the drop or drops are ordered, the minim or measured drop is intended, or the 60th part of a fluidrachm. The actual drop of oils or fluids is very uncertain, and varies between 60 and 120 in the fluidrachm. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 343 SECTION V. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. As a secondary part of this work it may be useful to give the recipes, formulas, and character of many articles for the pharmacist or perfumer ; that though they may not be actually essential, may yet prove very useful. In this department it is not intended to give gene- ral recipes, but only such as are likely to be of ser- vice in his business and applicable to the numerous uses contingent thereto. Almond Powder for the Hands. Almonds (blanched and powder- ed) 1 pound. White Castile soap (dried and powdered) .... 8 ounces. Orris root (powdered) . . 2 Pumice stone (fine powdered) . 6 Essential oil of almonds . . 2 drachms. Sieved all together into a fine powder. Useful for cleansing, softening, and whitening the hands. Alum Soap. (Detersive Toilet Soap.) White soap (by cold process) . 5 pounds. Powdered alum . . . J Olive oil 2 ounces. This soap is cut into shavings and dissolved by 344 APPENDIX. heat, and the oil and powdered alum stirred in. Per- fume to suit. It has the property of whitening the skin. Aromatic Candles for Perfuming Apartments. Melt camphor and balsam of Peru with the stearine or with whatever material the candles may be made ; or impregnate the wicks with perfume, by steeping them in some aromatic tincture and drying them. Antiseptic Soap for Preserving Birds, Animals, Anatomical Preparations, etc. Curd Soap ... .2 pounds. Carbonate of potash . . . J Arsenic . . . . . | " Camphor . . . . i " Dissolve the soap with a small portion of water in a marine bath, when add the other ingredients pre- viously powdered and mixed together. Areca Nut Tooth Paste. Charcoal of the betel nut . . 8 ounces. Powdered cloves . . . 1 " " cinnamon . . . 1 " orris . . . . 2 " Made into a paste with honey. This paste has fine properties as a whitener of the teeth. Ambergris Wine. 10 drops of tincture of ambergris added to 1 gallon of claret or Burgundy wine improves the bouquet very much. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 345 Arrack (Imitation}. An half drachm of benzole acid added to a quart of New England Rum, of good age, will imitate this favorite tipple. Annealing Glass Vessels. In order to guard against any imperfection in the annealing of glass retorts and other apparatus used by the perfumer and chemist, it were well to put them in a vessel with oil, and raise the heat to the boiling point, when, after being boiled for a quarter of an hour, and suffered to cool very gradually, they will be found well tempered. Augia Sinensis. (Chinese Varnish.) This very useful balsam, of a greenish, turpentine- like consistence, used by the Chinese as a varnish or lacker, is perhaps one of the best and most durable known, and might be imported and used in this country with great advantage, as it can be colored any color, and is susceptible of a very fine polish. Japan Lacker. The lacker or varnish used by the Japanese is pro- cured from the rhus vernix or swamp sumach, culti- vated in Japan and growing wild in this country. The trunk of the tree is wounded, when the juice which flows soon blackens in the air; when purified and colored it affords this celebrated varnish. Amalgams for Filling Teeth. One part of grain gold or silver is treated in a crucible with two parts of mercury, and stirred with 346 APPENDIX. an iron rod until combined. When cold enough to handle, the excess of mercury can be pressed out by straining through a piece of chamois leather. These are a durable stopping for cavities in teeth. Anotta Coloring for Butter. Roco seed . . . . .1 pound. Carbonate of potash . . .2 ounces. "Water . . . . .2 pints. Let the seed be ground to a coarse powder, and boiled with the water for half an hour ; add the salt of tartar; when strain and bottle. Owing to the im- purities of the anotta of commerce, this article can be made of much better quality by using the seed. AROMATIC AND MEDICATED BATHS. Aromatic Bath. Lavender, thyme, and rosemary, of each . . . . .8 ounces. Cloves and peppermint, of each . \ " Macerate in warm water for two hours ; strain and add to an ordinary bath. Alkaline Bath. Carbonate of soda (crystal) . 6 ounces. Borax 1 " Dissolve in a quart of hot water. This is the proper quantity for an ordinary bath of 30 gallons. Sea 'Water Bath. Muriate of soda . . . . 2 pounds. Sulphate of soda . . .1 Chloride of lime . . i u " " magnesia . . \ " MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 347 Dissolve in about 2 gallons of warm water, and add to an ordinary bath of 30 gallons. Camphor ated Bath. Tincture of camphor . . .1 ounce. " " benzoin . . . \ " Cologne water . . 2 Drop slowly into an ordinary bath, and it will be found very refreshing, as it is a fragrant tonic and cosmetic. Emollient Bath. Barley meal . ... 1 pound. Bran 2 " Borax . . . . .1 ounce. Dissolve in two quarts of warm water, and add to an ordinary bath. "Well adapted to soften the skin. Perfumed Bath. Cologne water .... 3 ounces. Rose " .... 1 pint. Tincture of vanilla . . . J ounce. Mix the Cologne and tincture, and add to the rose- water by degrees, and put into an ordinary bath. Milk Bath. Marshmallow flowers . J pound. Hyssop herb . . . . | Bran flour . . . . .4 This mixture added to an ordinary bath will be found a good substitute for a milk bath, which is very expensive. 348 APPENDIX. Sulphuretted Bath. Sulphuret of potash . . .2 ounces. Dissolved in a quart of warm water, and added to an ordinary bath. Blonde Liquid for Bleaching the Hair. Muriatic acid . . . 2 ounces. Aqua ammonia . . . . \ " Rose-water .... 1 pint. This mixture applied to dark hair is said to change it to a flaxen hue, as will also a solution of sulphide of cadmium. Blacking for Shoes (Liquid}. Ivory black . . . .50 pounds. Cod-liver oil . . . .1 gallon. Oil of vitriol . . . .10 pounds. Powdered gum Senegal . . 1 " Molasses 4 gallons. Vinegar . . . . . 15 " Grind the ivory black and gum and oil with a por- tion of the vinegar; add the molasses, and pour in very slowly the oil of vitriol while stirring, and, when combined, add the balance of the vinegar. Blacking for Shoes (Paste). Ivory black . . . .25 pounds. Molasses . . . . .2 gallons. Oil of vitriol .... 4 pounds. Cod-liver oil . . . .4 gallons. "Vinegar . . . . .6 Powdered gum Arabic . . | pound. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 349 Let all the ingredients be mixed together (except the oil of vitriol) and ground into a paste, when the vitriol is slowly stirred in, and let it be stirred every day for a week before using or boxing, to insure a perfect combination. Brushes of JRoot for the Teeth. Eoot brushes for the teeth are prepared from liquorice root, selecting pieces of about half an inch in thickness, scraping off the outer bark and slitting one end, for about half or three-quarters of an inch, with repeated slits, to form a brush, and then immers- ing them in a solution of liquid carmine or a decoc- tion of Brazil wood to color them. Bronzing Liquid (for Iron). Blue vitriol .... 1 ounce. Spirits of nitre . . . . \ Tincture of chloride of iron . \ " Aqua fortis . . . . \ " "Water 1 " Dissolve the blue vitriol in the water, and add the other ingredients separately. In using, the iron articles should be made bright and clean, and this liquid should remain on them for about a day, and be then wiped off, and a coat of lacker put on them while warm ; the appearance can be improved by a little color in the lacker. Bougies and Catheters. These useful surgical appliances are made of a cylindrical web of cotton and saturated several times with the following varnish, each time drying by moderate heat, when they can be polished with tripoli and oil. 350 APPENDIX. India-rubber Varnisli for Catheters. Caoutchouc .... 8 ounces. Amber 4 " Linseed oil (boiled) . . . 12 Spirits of turpentine . . .4 The India-rubber is cut into small pieces, and dis- solved in the hot oil, adding the amber and turpen- tine while cooling. Bunion and Corn Plasters. These plasters are made of various substances, as leather, felt, amadou, etc. ; the white felt being the most common. In preparing these the felt is stretched upon a frame or a partition, and first coated with a solution of dextrine, and when dry with four or five coats of fine isinglass in solution of 6 ounces to 1 quart of water. Those of chamois leather or of amadou are pre- pared in the same manner. They are cut with a hole in the centre to allow the head of the corn or bunion to be free from the pressure of the shoe. Hungarian Corn or Bunion Plaster. Diachylon plaster . . .4 ounces. Beeswax 2 " Gum galbanum . . . . 1 u Olive oil 1 " Verdigris, in powder . . .1 The powdered verdigris is stirred into the other ingredients previously dissolved together by heat. This is usually formed into sticks, and applied to soft leather of proper size for the corn or bunion. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 351 German Corn Plaster. Galbanum plaster . . .4 ounces. Black pitch . . . . 2 " Sal ammoniac ... . J Stir the powdered sal ammoniac into the melted plaster ; this is also used for warts. Corn Solvent. Salts of tartar (desiccated) . 1 ounce. Bole Armenia . . \ Resin ointment . . .1 This is spread upon kid, the exact size of the corn or bunion, and after some hours the feet are put into warm water, and the corn will be found soft enough to pick out with the fingers. Care must be taken to keep the solvent off the surrounding skin, as it is quite caustic. Chilblain Lotion. Alum ...... | ounce. Camphor 1 drachm. Cucumber juice .... 2 ounces. Chilblain Ointment. Powdered galls .... 1 ounce. Resin ointment . Another Spermaceti ointment . . .2 ounces. Sugar of lead .... 1 drachm. Glycerine \ ounce. 352 APPENDIX. Lotion for Chapped Hands. Borax ...... 2 drachms. Glycerine 2 " Honey 2 " Rose-water . ... 4 ounces. Cerate for Chapped Hands. Spermaceti . . . . .2 ounces. Glycerine . . . . . \ " Sal ammoniac . . . .1 drachm. Calledermic Powder for Whitening the SMn. Powdered marshmallow root . 2 ounces. Carbonate of soda . . . 2 " Barley meal . . . . 12 " Used as a soap powder. Lotion for Scurf on Infants' Heads. Borax J ounce. Glycerine . . . . . | u Rose- water 3 " Applied once a day it will soften the scurf, and it will come off, and also prevent its forming again. Brilliantine for the Hair. Veal fat 4 ounces. Spermaceti . . . . .2 Castor oil 2 " Oil of almonds . \ drachm. " bergamot . . . . 2 " ." cloves 1 " MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 353 Ointment for Barbels Itch. Spermaceti ointment . . .2 ounces. Lac sulphur . ... 2 drachms. Vermilion ..... 1 u Rose-water . . . . . \ ounce. Liquid for Bleaching Sponges. Muriatic acid .... 2 ounces. Sulphuric " .... 1 Water . . . . .2 pounds. Let the sponges be well washed, and freed from sand and stones, and while wet put into this liquid, and after three or four hours taken out and washed in clean water until they are free from acid ; lastly, dry in the shade. If not white enough the process can be repeated. Cement for China, Glass, etc. Isinglass (finest) . . .2 ounces. Gum ammoniac . \ " mastic . . . 1 Alcohol I'- 1 * Let the isinglass swell in 8 ounces of water for about six hours ; pour off the water, when apply heat to dissolve it. Rub up the gum ammoniac with the dissolved isinglass until mixed, then strain. Dissolve the gum mastic in the alcohol by aid of heat, strain, and mix the two liquids. To be kept in well-corked bottles. When wanted for use, warm the bottle of cement in hot water, and let the articles to be mended also be warmed. 23 354 APPENDIX. Collodion Cement. Powdered nitrate of potash . 2 drachms. Concentrated sulphuric acid . 3 " Carded cotton . . . .10 grains. Mix the nitrate of potash with the acid in a porce- lain capsule, and gradually add the cotton, and stir for a few minutes ; wash it thoroughly in water free from all acid, when pull it apart and dry by moderate heat, taking care not to come too near the fire, as it is a species of gun-cotton ; dissolve it in a little rec- tified sulphuric ether and a portion of alcohol, and it will form a strong adhesive cement, perfectly transpa- rent and colorless. India-rubier Cement for Leather, etc. India-rubber .... 2 drachms. Chloroform . , . . . . 2 fl. ozs. Gum mastic . . . \ ounce. Shred the rubber and dissolve in the chloroform, when add the mastic in powder. Useful to join leather or rubber to leather, etc., and it will make leather water-proof. Cement for Meerschaum, Marble, Alabaster, etc. "White of . . . . .4 eggs. Quicklime 2 ounces. Makes a useful luting when spread on muslin and applied to joints, etc. Cement for Stone, etc. "White sand . . . .4 ounces. Litharge . . . . . i " Linseed oil . . . . . q. s. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 355 Made into a soft putty, and put in the joints, soon becomes hard. Cloux-Fumantis. Under this name aromatics are made into small sticks, and burnt to perfume apartments. Powdered benzoin . . .2 ounces. santal . . . 2 " " [olibanum . . . 1| " " cascarilla . . . 1 " " charcoal . . . 7 " u nitre, cinnamon, and cloves, each . . 1 Made into three-inch sticks, with mucilage of gum tragacanth. Carmine. Cochineal (ground) . . .1 pound. Salts of tartar . \ ounce. Powdered alum . . . . 1J u Fish glue . . . . ' . \ " Water . . . . .8 gallons. Boil the cochineal with the salts of tartar for about twenty minutes, remove from the fire, and stir in the powdered alum. After standing about an hour, the clear liquor is decanted into another boiler, and the isinglass added after being dissolved in about a quart of warm water; and when it boils, and the carmine rises in coagulum, it is removed from the fire and stirred for about fifteen minutes, when the carmine will precipitate; when the liquor is decanted off, and the precipitate dried on a filter. The liquor still retains a good deal of color, and can be used to make rouge by coloring talc, or can be made into vinaigre rouge, and bottled. 356 APPENDIX. Carthamus, or Rouge Vegetal. Safflower, from which this fine rouge is obtained, contains two coloring principles. The yellow matter is first washed out by putting it into a bag and kneading it under water until no more color can be extracted. The flowers are then put into a cullender, and water in which carbonate of soda is dissolved poured slowly through them, until they become yellow. The liquor is then acidulated with citric acid, when the fine coloring matter is precipitated upon some finely levigated talc placed in the bottom of the copper. The color will be more or less bril- liant according to the amount of talc used. Crinogen, to promote the Growth of the Beard. Veal fat . . . .1 pound. Tincture of cantharides . . 1 ounce. vanilla . . . 1 " Oil of petit-grain . . . J drachm. Chlorine Tooth-wash. Chlorate of potash . . .1 ounce. Tincture of myrrh . : . 1 " aquillabark . . \ " " orris . . . 1 " Orange-flower water . . .12 An excellent dentifrice and mouth-wash. Castillian Tooth-paste. "White Castile soap (powdered) . 2 ounces. Cuttle-fish bone " . 1 " Precipitated chalk " . 5 " Honey q. s. MISCELLANEOUS FOKMULAS. 357 Perfume with oils of lavender and cloves, and color red with liquid carmine. Creme Neige. (Snow Cream.) Spermaceti . . . 4 ounces. "White wax . . . . 2 " Oil of benne . . . .10 Rose-water . . 2 Glycerine . . . . .1 Extract of rose (ISTo. 1 ) . .1 drachm. A very pleasant cosmetic cream for all irritations of the skin. Capuchin Powder, to destroy Lice on Head or Body. Powdered cevadilla seed . .1 ounce. parsley . . 1 " tobacco " . 1 " starch . . 1 " Compound Cliamomile Powder, to destroy Bedbugs. Powdered Persian or red chamo- mile . . .2 ounces, black pepper . . 1 Flowers of sulphur . . .1 Detersive Lotion for Cleansing the Hair. Borax 1 ounce. Bicarbonate of soda . . . \ Camphor ..... 1 drachm. Glycerine . . \ ounce. Rose-water 1 quart. Alcohol 2 ounces. Dissolve the camphor in the alcohol, and add to 358 APPENDIX. the other ingredients previously mixed. A pleasant and useful wash for the hair. Diamond Dust for the Hair. "White smalts are well washed and rubbed into a coarse powder in an iron mortar, and put into neat paper boxes holding about a quarter of an ounce. Gold Dust for the Hair. Florem leaf, such as is used in common gilding, is rubbed to a coarse powder in a Wedgwood mortar, and put into small paper boxes, and neatly labelled. Silver Dust for the Hair. White leaf or Dutch metal is rubbed in a mortar, and finely divided, and put up in neat boxes holding about a drachm. Disinfecting Segars. The tobacco with which the segars are filled, is saturated with an aromatic tincture similar to that given for perfuming and flavoring segars in a former chapter. Liquid Drier for Varnish, Paints, etc. Sulphate of zinc . . .4 ounces. Black oxide of manganese . . 1 pound. Linseed oil . . . . .3 quarts. Spirits of turpentine . . .1 gallon. The first two ingredients are to be boiled with the oil for two hours, when the oil is poured oif clear, and turpentine added. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 359 Drier in Powder for Painty etc. Sulphate of zinc (desiccated) . 4 ounces. Sugar of lead " . . 4 " Litharge . . . . .2 pounds. Mixed and ground into a fine powder, it dries and hardens paint very well. JEJssence of Soap or Shaving Liquid. White shaving cream . . .4 ounces. Alcohol, 80 . . . 8 " Liquor potassa, TJ. S. P. . .2 drachms. Rose-water ... .8 ounces. Oil of cassia . . . .10 drops. " bergamot . . . 20 " Dissolve the soap in the rose-water and potash lye, and add the alcohol in which the oils are dissolved. Evaporating Lotion for Headache. Solution of acetate of ammonia . 1 ounce. Sulphuric ether . . \ Cologne water . ... 1 Orange-flower water . . . 1| " Another Aromatic vinegar . . .2 ounces. Tincture of camphor . . . \ Sulphuric ether . . J Rose-water . . . . .3 Elaidic Acid. When oil or oleic acid is treated with hyponitric acid, a beautiful white crystalline substance is ob- tained ; that being well washed to free it from all 360 APPENDIX. acid, it could be used by the perfumer in cerates, cold cream, cosmetics, etc., to great advantage. Eye Paint, or Koliol. "When camphor is burnt, and the smoke condensed and collected, it can be formed into a paste, and used as the Eastern ladies do, by applying it to the eyelids to give a brilliant effect to the eyes. Eye Salve. Citrine ointment . Spermaceti ointment . Used for all diseases of the eyelids. 1 drachm. 2 ounces. Eye-water. Acetate of zinc Acetic acid . Camphor- water Rose-water . 20 grains. 5 drops. 2 ounces. 8 " A useful wash for inflamed eyes, and in the ophthal- mia of infants or adults. Eau de Cologne. (Cheap.) Oil of bergamot, lemon, orange, rosemary, of each . . .1 ounce. Oil of cloves . ... 1 drachm. Tincture of orris .... 4 ounces. Alcohol . . . . .1 gallon. Water 3 pints. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 361 v Elixir of Rose for the Teeth. Tincture of rhatany . . .2 drachms, camphor . . .1 " cochineal . .2 " Otto of roses . . . .10 drops. Rose-water, triple . . .6 ounces. English Tooth Powder. Prepared chalk . . .4 ounces. Pumice, finely powdered . . 1 " Camphor . . . . . J Oil of spearmint . . . \ drachm. Ethereal Aromatic Tincture. (Stomachic and Anti-Spasmodic.) Cinnamon, nutmegs, and cloves, of each . . . . .2 drachms. Yanilla 1 Castor I " Alcohol 12 ounces. Sulphuric ether .... 4 Macerate for ten days. Dose, a teaspoonful. Essential Salt of Lemons for Removing Fruit Stains, Iron- Mold, etc., from Linen. Oxalic acid | ounce. Cream of tartar . . . . 1 Powder separately and mix. To use, a small portion is dissolved in warm water and applied, and the part is well washed in pure water. 362 APPENDIX. * Freckle Wash. Sal ammoniac . ... 1 drachm. Glycerine 1 ounce. Rose-water . . . . . 15 " Apply night and morning with a fine sponge. Fly-powder to Destroy Flies. Cobalt, black pepper, and brown sugar, of each . ... 1 ounce. Fly-paper to Destroy Flies. Coarse paper is saturated with a solution of cobalt and sugar, and dried. Frcfoikincense. Gum olibanum . ... 2 ounces. " benzoin . . . . \ " " myrrh . . . . \ " Prepared charcoal . . . 5 " Powdered together; this is the formula for that used in the churches. Ferruginous Pomade for Darkening the Hair. Veal fat 1 pound. Yellow wax . ... 4 ounces. Oil of benne . . . . 8 " Sulphate of iron . . .6 drachms. Pyrogallic acid .... 4 u Rose-water . . . .1 ounce. Oil of cloves . ... 2 drachms. " lavender .... 4 " Melt the fat, wax, and oil together, and rub up the sulphate of iron with a portion of the water and stir in; dissolve the pyrogallic acid with the rest of the water, and add lastly the perfumes. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 363 Frigorific or Freezing Mixture. To Cool the Water of Receivers in Distillation, etc. etc. Muriate of ammonia. Sulphate of soda. These substances in coarse powder are kept sepa- rate, and when wanted equal parts are thrown sepa- rately into the refrigerator or upon the ice in the ice-cream freezer. French Tooth Powder. Sugar of milk .... 4 ounces. Carbonate of magnesia . . 1 Powdered pumice . . . J Sulphate of quinine . . . J Powdered orris-root . . . 2 u Oil of peppermint . . .1 drachm, cassia . . ^ Furniture Polish. Gum shellac .... 1 ounce. " copal \ Wood naphtha . . . 4 Strong alcohol . . . . 12 " This is for light-colored woods. If wanted for dark woods add a drachm of dragon's blood ; polish with an oiled rag. Another for Varnished Furniture. Beeswax . . . . .1 ounce. Linseed oil . . . . .4 Alcohol . . . . .5 Dissolve the wax in the oil by aid of heat. 364 APPENDIX. Furniture Oil. Boiled linseed oil . . .4 ounces. Oil of lavender . . . . \ Acetic acid . . . . 2 " Alcohol, 95 . . . . 1| " If wanted dark, color with alkanet root. Another for Renewing Furniture. Pale linseed oil . . . .8 ounces. Shellac varnish . . . . 4 " Wood naphtha . . . . 4 " Put on the furniture, and after an hour it is well rubbed to restore the polish, remove scratches, etc. Furniture Cream. Linseed oil (pale) . . .4 ounces. Strong vinegar . . . . 2 " alcohol . . . . 2 " Gelee Cosmetique or Curling Fluid. Carrageen moss . . \ ounce. Eau de Cologne . . . . 1 " Extract of millefleur . . . 1 " Water 1 pint. The moss is swelled over night in the water, heated to dissolve, strained and perfumed, and colored red with liquid carmine, or yellow with tincture of saf- fron. A very good mixture for the hair. Glycerine Jelly for Chapped Hands. St. Vincent arrow-root . . 2 drachms. Water ..... J ounce. Glycerine . . . . . ^ drachm. Tincture of saffron . . . \ Eau de Cologne . . . I " MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 365 Let the arrow-root be mixed with the water clari- fied by heat, when stir in the glycerine, color and perfume. It should be transparent, and is a very pleasant form for using glycerine. Glove Cleaner. Rectified benzine . . .4 ounces. Oil of lavender . . . i " A pleasant and good cleaner. Glove Cleaner. (French.) Gum tragacanth . . . | ounce. White Castile soap . . . 1 " Rose-water . . 1 pint. Tincture of musk . . .10 drops. Dissolve the soap in the water, put the gurn in, and when swelled stir well to thoroughly mix, when strain and perfume. A valuable cleaner, as the gloves remain soft. Ginger Beer. Concentrated essence of Jamaica ginger . . 2 ounces. The juice and rind of . 4 lemons. White sugar . . .2 pounds. Water . . . . 1| gallons. Yeast .... 1 tablespoonful. To be kept in a warm place for about two days, when it is strained and bottled if not wanted for pre- sent use. Green or Elder-leaf Ointment. Lard 2 pounds. Suet 1 " Fresh elder leaves . . 2 " 360 APPENDIX. Let the leaves be added to the melted grease, and stewed until they lose their color. Keep up the heat to evaporate the moisture, but do not let it boil. This is considered a cooling emollient for chafes, burns, etc. Glue from Rice Flour. Mix rice flour with cold water, and boil gently till clear, when it will be found a very useful cement for joining fine articles, pasting, etc. Liquid Glue. Good glue 4 ounces. Muriatic acid . . . i " Sulphate of zinc . . . \ "Water J pint. Break up the glue, put it in the water, let it swell for a few hours, heat to dissolve, when add the acid and sulphate of zinc; keep it hot for some hours, fre- quently stirring, and it will remain liquid when cold. Mouth Glue. Glue (best) . . . . 1 pound. Sugar . . . . i " Let the glue swell in about a pint of water for some hours, pour off the excess of water, heat to dis- solve, add the sugar, and when sufficiently evapo- rated pour on a marble slab and cut into squares. This is a very handy article, for it is dissolved in the mouth when wanted for use. Gutta-percha Dressing. Gutta-percha .... 1 drachm. Chloroform 1 fl. ounce. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 367 Spread upon muslin and applied to a wound it will form a water-proof dressing. Gold-beater's SJcin for Plaster. The finest baudrouches are stretched upon a board, and one side coated with a solution of Russia isin- glass, and when dry cut into squares, and enveloped. * Hand Powder, for Whitening tlie Hands. "White Castile soap (powdered) . 4 ounces. Cuttle-fish bone " . 4 " Blanched almonds " . 8 " Orris-root . " . 2 " Oil of cloves . J drachm. " lavender . . . . 1 " Used as a soap powder, it has a great detersive and softening effect. Hair Powder. Starch, in fine powder . . 1 pound. Orris-root 1 ounce. Oil of rhodium . . . .10 drops. Hair Cream. (Creme de Noisettes.) Oil of hazelnuts .... 1 pound. Spermaceti 4 ounces. Jasmine oil from flowers . . 1 Drying Hair Wash for Moist Hair. Cologne or lavender water . . 4 ounces. Borax . . . J Rose- water . . . . .3 Tincture of cochineal . . \ " 368 APPENDIX. Horse- Radish Mouth Wash. Horse-radish root . . .1 ounce. Boiling water .... 1 pint. Tincture of rhatany . . .2 drachms. Horse-radish is said to be a valuable remedy for sore gums, toothache, etc. Horse-Radish Lotion for the Skin, etc. Horse-radish root . . .1 ounce. Boiling water . ... 1 pint. Borax . . . . .2 drachms. In this form horse-radish can be used to advantage for freckles, tan, etc. Herbs and Flowers (to Preserve). Recent and fresh flowers and herbs, intended for distillation, can be preserved for a long time, by packing them in a tight keg or barrel, with about one-fourth their weight of salt (well dried), placing a heavy cover on them to exclude the air, and keeping them in the cellar or other cool place. Honey Water. Rectified spirit 70 . . .5 pints. Extract of rose ]STo. 2 . 1 " jasmine " . 1 " Oil of lavender . ... 2 drachms. " bergamot . . . 2 " rosemary . . . 1 " " cloves . . . . 1 " " thyme . . . . 1 " MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 369 Tincture of musk . . .4 ounces. " Peru balsam . . 2 " " orris-root . . 8 " A very fragrant toilet water or perfume for the handkerchief. Honey of Roses. (Confection.) Eed-rose leaves (dried and pow- dered) . . . . .4 ounces. Clarified honey . . . f pint. Useful as a vehicle for many articles. Honey Mouth Wash. Eed-rose leaves (dried) . .2 ounces. Rose-water . . .8 Clarified honey ... .6 Immerse the rose-leaves in the water, and heat gently for two hours, when strain and add the honey. A very pleasant and useful wash for the mouth, gargle for sore throat, etc. Hungarian Hair Dye (in two Preparations'). No. 1, Mordant. Hydrosulphate of ammonia . 10 fl. drachms. Liquor of potassa, U. S. P. .2 " Eose-water . . . . 12 " " No. 2, Dye. Nitrate of silver (crystals). . 2 drachms. Aqua ammonia . . . . q. s. Eose-water . . . . 2J ounces. 24 370 APPENDIX. This is a valuable hair dye, and gives a reliable and natural black or brown color ; if a brown color is wanted, dilute No. 2 one-half. Hair Oil. (Cheap.) Cotton-seed oil . . . . 1 gallon. Oil of bergamot .... 4 drachms. " lemon . . . . 2 " " cloves . . . . 1 " " thyme . . . . 1 " In this manner most of the cheap hair oils are now made. This formula can be used for bear's oil or antique oil. Colored red with alkanet it can be called rose hair oil, making some change in the perfume. lodinated Oil for Scalp Sores, etc. Iodine 1 drachm. Benne oil . . . . .1 pint. Oil of lemon .... 2 drachms. " almonds . . . . \ " " fennel . . . \ " Carbolic acid . ... 5 grains. This will be found a very healing preparation for all diseases of the scalp. Iodine Lotion. (Cosmetic.) Iodine . . . . .10 grains. Iodide of potash . . . 20 " Rose-water (triple) . . .1 pint. A very serviceable lotion for pimples, pustules, itch, etc. etc. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 371 Itch Ointment. Spermaceti ointment . . ,2 ounces. Almond oil . \ " Lac sulphur . . . J " Salt ...... 1 drachm. Oil of lemon, oil of almonds, and oil of neroli, of each . . 10 drops. A pleasant and effective remedy. Isinglass Plaster. (Court Plaster.) This very useful article is made out by water-proof- ing the silk on one side with a solution of India rub- ber, in chloroform and tincture of benzoin, and then coating the other side with a solution of the best isin- glass, of two ounces to a pint of water ; two or three coats of which are put on with a flat camel's-hair brush, letting each coat dry before the next is applied. The silk is of three colors white, pink, and black. Indelible Ink for Marking Linen. Nitrate of silver (crystal) . . 1 drachm. Gum Arabic . . . ,20 grains. Pyrogallic acid . . . .10 Indigo 5 " Distilled water .... 2 ounces. Another that will not corrode the pen Chloride of platinum . . . \ drachm. Sugar 10 grains. Gum 10 Salts of tartar . ... 5 Distilled water , 10 drachms. 372 APPENDIX. Another Gluten of wheat Acetic acid Indigo Lamp black Water Oil of cloves | ounce. 5 grains. " 10 4 ounces. 10 drops. ) English Black. Aleppo galls (bruised) Sulphate of iron Gum Arabic, powdered "Water .... Creasote . 8 ounces. . 4 " . 2 . 1 . 10 drops. Let the galls be steeped in the water for about a day before the iron and gum are added. This makes a reliable black ink that will not fade. Ink, Blue-black Fluid. Aleppo galls (good) . Sulphate of iron Gum Senegal Cloves (bruised) . Sulphate of indigo Sugar .... Water 10 ounces. 3 " 2 " . 1 drachm. . 1 ounce. . 1 gallon. Put the bruised galls and cloves in the water, and stir frequently for two days, strain, and press out all the liquid, next put in the sulphate of iron, gum, and sugar, stir frequently until all is dissolved, strain again and add the sulphate of indigo. This is a good, permanent ink which will also copy well. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS.- 373 Invisible Ink. Chloride of cobalt . . .5 grains. " nickle . . . 5 " Distilled water . ... 1 pint. This solution written on white paper will not be visible, but when heated will turn green, and again disappear when cool. Ink Powder. Bruised galls . ... 2 pounds. Ground logwood . . . \ " Copperas 1 White sugar . . .2 ounces. Gum Arabic, powdered . . 4 Mix well together. Two ounces will make a pint of good ink. Juniper Tar Pomade. Juniper tar (limpid) . . .2 ounces. Hard body 8 Pomade of Peru balsam . . 1 Oil of lavender .... 1 drachm. " lemon grass . . .1 Tincture of musk . . . \ Juniper tar is a remedy for all eruptions, salt rheum, etc., of the scalp, and this is a pleasant mode of applying it. Italy dor for the Skin. Glycerine 1 ounce. Borax \ Orange-flower water . . . 1| pint. 374 . APPENDIX. Kaolin Cosmetic or White. Kaolin 1 pound. Corn starch . . . . J " Honey-water .... 1 ounce. The powder is made into a mass with water and moulded to suit the box intended for it, and when dry is smoothed off and packed with colored cotton. f Lavender Vinegar. Oil of garden lavender (good) . 1 drachm. Acetic acid (from sugar) . . 1 ounce. Rose-water . . 1 pint. Agitate the oil with the acid several times for about a day, gradually add the rose-water and filter. Thus can be made the vinegar of almost all perfumes. Lime Juice Lotion. Lemon juice (fresh) . . .4 ounces. Glycerine 2 " Alcohol 2 " Rose- water, triple . . . 1| " A very pleasant preparation for acne, freckles, itch- ing, and irritation of the skin. Lisbon Water. Oil of Portugal . ... 1 ounce. " lemon . . . . \ " rose . J drachm. " neroli, petale . . . \ " Alcohol, 80 . . . .2 pints. Once a very celebrated perfume, and it is exceed- ingly pleasant. MISCELLANEOUS FOKMULAS. 375 Extract of the Cedar of Lebanon. Oil of cedar . J ounce. Alcohol 12 " Tincture of vanilla . . . 2 " Rose-water, triple . . . 4 " Laudanum Pastils. Gum labdanum . . . 1 ounce. " benzoin . . . . \ " Powdered charcoal . . . 2| " Made into cones with mucilage of gum tragacanth, dried and burnt to perfume apartments. Lettuce Water. (Cosmetic.) Lettuce leaves, fresh . . .4 pounds. Warm water . . . . .1 gallon. Bruise the lettuce, and keep at a gentle heat for about three hours, when strain and add four ounces of alcohol to keep it. Used as a cosmetic and to allay irritation. Lip Salve. (Italian.) Butter of coco .... 2 ounces. Oil of benne .... 1 "White wax . . . . \ " Powdered alum . | Vermilion 1 drachm. Lycopodium Powder. Lycopodium . ... 1 ounce. Oxide of zinc . \ Starch 3 For excoriations of the skin, to make new skin on sores, etc. 376 APPENDIX. Lutes for Joints of Apparatuses, etc. A useful lute for chemical apparatuses and distil- lation is made by mixing the white of egg with an equal quantity of water and thickening with slaked lime ; it should be spread upon strips of muslin. It soon hardens, and will stand a great heat. Another Liquid glue mixed with whiting and spread upon muslin is also a good luting for joints of stills, etc. Another Linseed meal mixed with lime-water to the con- sistence of putty or thick paste is a useful lute. May -dew Milk for the Complexion. Eed rose leaves . . . .2 ounces. Borax \ " Glycerine . . . . . 1 " Tincture of benzoin . . . 1 " Rose-water, triple . . . 1| pints. Milk of Roses. White soft soap . \ ounce. Blanched almonds . . .2 " Rose-water, triple . . .1 pint. Liquid carmine . . . .10 drops. Mole Salve. Diachylon plaster . . . J ounce. Tartar emetic . . . .1 drachm. Croton oil 5 drops. This plaster should be spread the exact size of the mole, and kept on until it suppurates, then remove and let heal ; it may leave a slight scar. MISCELLANEOUS FOIIMULAS. 377 Mosquito Lotion for Mosquito Bites, etc. Aqua ammonia . ... 1 ounce. Glycerine . . . . . \ Kose-water . . . . 4 " Musk Root or Samlul. This root, which is imported from the East Indies, is often used as a perfume in essences and sachet powders ; in the latter it is particularly useful, as it supplies bulk, and has the odor of musk in a great degree. Mustard Essence. Black mustard seed . . .2 ounces. Acetic acid .... 2 Spirits of camphor . . .8 Oil of rosemary . . .1 Let the seeds macerate with the acid for two or three days ; strain and add the other ingredients. A useful embrocation in rheumatism, sprains, etc. Myrrh Water. Mouth Wash. Gum myrrh .... 2 drachms. " Arabic . l' Alcohol \ ounce. Water 7J " A mouth wash and gargle. Marine Cement, Water-proof. India-rubber .... 1 ounce. Shellac . . . . .2 Naphtha 4 " 378 APPENDIX. Myrtle Pomade. Lard (purified) ... .3 pounds. Suet .... 1 " Oil of pimento . ... 2 drachms. bergamot . . .6 " " neroli .... 2 u Lacquer for Foil, Metal, etc. Gum shellac .... 3 ounces. " elemi | " " sandarach . . . . 1 " Alcohol, 90 .... 3 pints. By having the alcoholic solutions of the different aniline colors, this lacquer can be colored any color desired. It is put on with a flat camel's hair brush, and the article warmed sufficiently to set it. Palma-Eosa Pomade. Lard (purified) .... 3 pounds. Suet " .... 1 a Oil of ginger grass . . . \ ounce. lemon . . .2 drachms, geranium . . .2 " cloves . . . . 2 " Color light green. Nipple Wash. Nitrate of lead . J drachm. Nitrous ether . . . . \ " Glycerine . . . . . \ Tincture of rhatany . . . \ Eose-water . . . . 3| " Care should be taken to thoroughly wash off the nipples before nursing. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 379 Peach Water. Alcohol, 80 .... 2 pints. Tincture of Tolu . . .2 ounces. Extract of jasmine, ISTo. 2 . .4 orange-flower, 'No. 2. 4 Oil of almonds (essential) ... 1 drachm. A very pleasant toilet water. Pearls of JRoses, or Perfumed Beads. Red rose leaves, powdered . . 4 ounces. Carmine 20 grains. Tincture of musk . . .1 drachm. Mucilage of gum tragacanth . q. s. Made into spheres, perforated and dried, and strung as beads ; when carefully made and polished they are pretty and of nice perfume ; they can also be made of any other odor desired. Polish for Shoes and Leather. Gum tragacanth . . .2 ounces. Isinglass . . . . . 1 Beer ...... 1 gallon. Glycerine 1 pound. Extract of logwood . . .2 ounces. Powdered galls .... 1 Copperas . . . . .2 Steep the logwood, galls, and copperas in the beer for some days; add the glycerine to prevent its get- ting too sour; strain and dissolve the gum and isin- glass in the mixture, and if necessary strain again. 380 APPENDIX. Perfume (cheap) for Pomade or Hair Oil. Oil of bergamot . . 4 ounces. lemon " cloves " thyme Another Oil of orange rosemary . " pimento . petit-grain Another Oil of lemon thyme lemon grass " cloves Another Oil of orange caraway . ginger grass " cassia Another Oil of bergamot lavender " cloves " neroli 2 1 " 4 ounces. 2 " 1 i " 4 ounces. 1 " 2 i 2 4 ounces. 1 2 1 a 4 ounces. 2 " 1 " " Populeum Pomade, or Ointment for Piles. Poplar buds . . 4 ounces. Lard 12 " Honey 2 " Suet " 4 " Powdered orris 1 " MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 381 Powder for Perspiring Feet. Powdered alum . . 1 ounce. " orris-root . . .2 rice . . . . 5 " Powder for Fumigation. Powdered olibanum, cascarilla, benzoin, cloves, cinnamon, of each . . . . .1 ounce. Mixed together and burnt on stove or hot shovel to perfume apartments. Parchment Paper. Take heavy white printing paper and immerse a few seconds in a solution of sulphuric acid 6 ounces, water 1 ounce, and wash it in running water to free it from acid. Useful for tying over bottles and jars. Preventive Lotion. Carbonate of potash . . .2 drachms. Tannin . . . . .15 grains. Eose-water .... 1 pint. Liquid carmine . . . .10 drops. Pliosphated Tooth Powder. Phosphate of soda . . .1 ounce. Prepared chalk . . . .12 Powdered orris . ... 2 myrrh . . . J " Bole Armenia . . 1J " 382 APPENDIX. Rliatany Tooth Paste. Powdered rhatany . . .2 ounces. myrrh . . . \ " " orris . . . i " Prepared chalk . . . . 3 " Honey . . . . . q. s. Razor Paste. Levigated emery, jewellers' rouge, spermaceti ointment, of each . 1 ounce. Rubbed into the leather of the strop. Ratafia of Fruit. Fruit syrup (any kind) . . .2 pints. Aromatic syrup . . . .1 Rectified spirit . . 3 Color to suit. Rasma, Turkish. Orpiment 1 ounce. Quicklime . . . . . 8 " Starch 4 " A very quick depilatory but poisonous, and to be used with care. Rancid Butter, to Remedy. Knead it with fresh milk for some time, and then in cold water ; butter is sometimes wanted as a vehi- cle for perfumes and drugs. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 383 Sealing-wax, JRed. No. 1. Shellac Venice turpentine (true) . Vermilion . Another. Bed, No. 2 .Rosin, fine yellow Shellac Venice turpentine Vermilion . Another. Black Colophony ..... Venice turpentine Shellac Lampblack . . . . 1 pound. 8 ounces. 8 " 1 pound. i " 3 ounces. 4 ounces. 1 pound. 3 U q. s. Shampoo Liquor. Carbonate of ammonia . . J ounce, soda . . . J " Rum | pint. "Water ..... 1 a Stye Lotion. Camphor water .... 1 ounce. Muriate of morphia . . .2 grains, Styptic to Stop the Bleeding of Wounds, etc. Powdered alum, tannin, charcoal in fine powder, of each . . 1 ounce. 384 APPENDIX. Tetter Ointment. Citrine ointment Spermaceti ointment . Carbolic acid Balsam of Peru . Oil of lemon Toothache Drops. Hoffmann's anodyne . Oil of peppermint Sulphate of morphia . Tricophalon Pomade. Lard Yeal fat .... White wax Oil of benne " geranium . verbena . cloves Varnish for Artists. Gum mastic, in powder " copal (selected) . Ground glass Pale linseed oil . 2 drachms. . 2 ounces. . 5 grains. . \ drachm. . 10 drops. ounce. " . 10 grains. 1 pound. 2 " 4 ounces. 4 " 1 " 1 1 u 4 ounces. 2 4 " 8 " Rectified spirits of turpentine . \\ pint. The gums are put with the oil and glass in a glass flask or copper vessel, heated by sand-bath, and stirred till dissolved. The turpentine is added while cool- ing ; the glass is used to facilitate the solution of the gums, and prevent them adhering to the bottom. MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS. 385 r * Varnish for Maps, Prints, etc. Gum mastic . . . . 2^ ounces. " sandrac . . . . 1 " " camphor . . . i " Alcohol, 95 .... 8 Another for (ditto) Balsam of Canada . . .1 ounce. Spirits of turpentine . . .2 The paper should be sized with a solution of isin- glass, and dried before the varnish is applied. Varnish or Lacquer for Gilt Wares. Gum shellac . . . 2 ounces. " gamboge . . . . 1 " Dragon's blood . . . 1 Saffron . . . . .1 drachm. Alcohol . . . . .1 pint. Varnish for Waxed Tables, etc. Beeswax . . . .2 ounces. Colophony . . J Gum demar . .. . .1 Spirits of turpentine . . .1 pint. This takes a fine polish with rubbing. To facilitate the solution of gum copal it can be melted before a hot fire in a cullender, and suffered to drop into water, whence it is so finely divided that it will easily dissolve in turpentine, etc. Gum shellac will also dissolve in spirits much easier if suffered to swell in ether a few hours. 25 386 APPENDIX. Wart Pomade. Soap cerate 1 ounce. Powdered savin . . 1 drachm. verdigris . . . 1 " Spread on leather the size of the wart, and keep on over night, and repeated if necessary. Wig Paste to Fasten the Wig to the Head. Isinglass . . . . .1 ounce. Rose-water . . . . .8 Tincture of benzoin ; . .2 "White turpentine . . . 2 " Alcohol 4 " The isinglass is dissolved in the rose-water, the turpentine in the alcohol and tincture, when the two solutions are mixed. Vegetable Tincture for Barkening the Hair. Green walnut hulls . . .4 ounces. Claret wine . . . . 8 " This tincture has been long -in use as a dye for the hair, and, if carefully used, it is good. Omitted on page 77 : Tincture of Orris. Orris root in coarse powder . 2 pounds. Alcohol 7 pints. "Water 1 " Put the root with the water and two pints alcohol in a displacer, and pour in by degrees the balance of the alcohol. INDEX. Absinthe, 331 Absorption and maceration, 37 Acacia, extrait d', 82 pomade d', 160 Africa, perfumery in, 32 Alembic, 64, 65 Alembics, glass, 70 Algeria, otto of rose of, 35 Alhambra, bouquet d', 83 Alkaline bath, 346 Alkanet, tincture of, 73 Allspice, 45 Almond lotion, 143 powder for the hands, 343 soap, perfume for, 279 Almonds, 45 extract of, 237 bitter, 83 oil of, 226 Alum soap, 343 Amalgams for filling teeth, 345 Amande amar, extrait, 82 amere, 191 Amandine, 143 Amber gloss, Brazilian, 188 lavender water, 124 Ambergris, 46 or ambrosial soap, 290 tincture of, 72 wine, 344 Ambre, extrait d', 84 huile & 1', 178 Ambrette, 46 extrait d', 83 tincture of, 72 Ambrosial soap, 290 Ammonia, aromatic spirits of, 132 succinated spirits of, 132 Ammoniated Cologne water, 132 and toilet waters, 117-133 hair tonic, 188 Amour, bouquet d', 84 Aniline colors for soap, 275 " Aniseed, 46 cordial, 331 oil of, 226 Anisette, huile d', 331 Annealing glass vessels, 345 Anotta coloring for butter, 346 Antique oils, 177, 178 coloring of, 180 Antiseptic soap, 344 Apartments, perfuming, 141 Apple brandy, 328 extract of, 237 Apricot, extract of, 237 Aqua ornatus, 148 Arabia, perfumery in, 23, 24 Arabs in Spain, 29 Archil, tincture of, 73 Areca nut tooth paste, 344 Aromatic and medicated baths, 346- 348 bath, 346 candles, 344 cordial, 334 herb bitters, 330 oil of flowers, 182 opiate masticatory pastils, 216 spirits of ammonia, 132 tincture, 361 tooth paste, 209 powder, 206 Arome du bouche, 217 Arrack, imitation, 345 Aspasia, bouquet d', 83 Assyrians, use of perfumery by, 24 Auberpine, extract of, 83 Augia sinensis, 345 Australia, perfumery in, 32 Balm, 46 Balsam of honey, 145 of life, 329 of Peru, 46 tincture of, 76 of Tolu, 47, 60 tincture of, 76 Balsamique, pomade, 161 Banana, extract of, 237 syrup, 313 Bandoline, 191, 192 a la rose, 191 Baths, aromatic and medicated, 346- 348 Baume de miel, 145 388 INDEX. Baume de vie, 329 Baume's hydrometer, 253 Bay, 47 rum, 128 hair tonic, 190 Beads, perfumed, 139 Bear's grease, crystalline, 172 pomade, 161 oil, l&l Bedbug poison, 357 Benzoin, 47 pomade, 158, 161 soap, 289 tincture of, 73 Bergamot, 47 extract of, 85 oil of, 220 Beurre de cacao, pomade, 161 Bigarrade, 47 Birds and animals for preserving, 344 Bismuth dye, 195, 196 Bitter almonds, extract of, 82 Bitters, herb. 330 wine, 330 Blackberry, extract of, 237 syrup, 313 wine, 323 Blacking, 348 Blanc de perle, 151 Blonde hair dyes, 199, 200 liquid for bleaching the hair, 348 Bloom of roses, 151 Body, green, 159 red, 159 yellow, 159 Bois de santal, extrait du, 108 Bosphorus bouquet, 85 \ Bougies, 349 Bouquets, 77-116 Bouquet sachet, 135 soap, 290-305 Brandy, apple, 328 cognac, 328 +# Brazilian amber gloss, 188 bouquet, 84 hair oil, 182 Breath, 203-220 Brilliantine for the hair, 352 Bronzing liquid lor iron, 349 Brown Windsor soap, 289 Brushes of root for the teeth, 349 Bully (De), vinaigre aromatique, 129 Bunion arid corn plasters, 350, 351 Burgundy wine, 325 Cacao, pomade au beurre de, 161 Oachou aromntisd, Cristiani'H, 216 Cachous, aromatic, for the breath, 216- 218 Cachous des dames, Cristiani's, 218 California, climate of, for perfumes and oils, 229 Calledermic powder for whitening the skin, 352 Camphor balls, 150 balsam for the teeth, 211 ice, with glycerine, 148 lotion, 144 for the hair, 190 Camphorated bath, 347 dentifrice, 2U5 Candies, colors for, 309 Candles, aromatic, 344 Caunella, huile de, 331 Cannes, perfumes of, 34, 35 Cantharides, tincture of, 74 Caprice de la mode, 87 Capuchin powder, 357 Caraway, 48 Cardamom, 48 Carmine, 355 Caroline, bouquet de, 86 Carthamus, 3oo Cascarilla, 48 Cashmere nosegay, 87 Cassia, 48 Cassie, 48 extract of, 79, 82 pomade, 160 Cassolettes, 138 Castile soap, 248 from cotton- seed oil, 281-280 Castillian tooth paste, 356 Castor oil and glycerine pomade, 102 Catawba syrup, 314 Cathairon, Cristiani's, 186 Catharine de Mediuis, 29 Catheters, 349 Cedar, 49 of Lebanon, extract of, 86 tincture of, 73 Cedrat, 49 Celery, extract of, 238 Cement, collodion, 354 India-rubber, 354 for china, glass, etc., 353 for meerschaum, etc., 354 for stone, 354 Centennial bouquet, 86 Cerate for chapped hands, 352 Chamomile powder, 357 Champagne, 325 cider, 326 Chapped hands, lotion for, 352 Charcoal tooth paste, 208 powder, 205, 206 Chemicals used in soap manufacture, 251 INDEX. 389 Cherry, extract of, 238 syrup, 313 Chilblain lotion, 851 ointment, 351 China, odors of, 35 Chinese card rouge, 152 hair oil, 182 skin powder, 155 use of perfumery by, 28 varnish, 345 Chlorine pastils, 205 tooth wash, 356 Chypre*. extrait de, 87 Cider, 327 champagne, 320 Cinnamon, extract of, 238 cordial, 331 oil of, 22G tincture of, 73 Cire a moustache, 174 Citronella, 49 Civet, 49 tincture of, 74 Claret wine, 326 Cloux-fumantis, 355 Clove cordial, 331 pink, extract of, 102 Cloves, 49 extract of, 238 oil of, 226 Club-moss powder, 154 Cochineal, tincture of, 74 Cocoa, extract of, 238 Cocoa-nut oil, 248 soap, 274 to saponify, 275 Cococydonia, Cristiaui's, 186 Coction, 271, 272 Coffee, extract of, 238 syrup, 314 Cognac brandy, 328 Cold cream, 146 of violets, 147 process, toilet soaps by, 276-281 Collodion cement, 354 Cologne, eau de, 41 oil, 120 vinegar, 129 water, 117, 119, 120 ammoniated, 132 cheap, 360 Coloring of antique oils, 180 Colornerus, 196 Colors for candies, 309 Compounding toilet soaps, -286-293 Coral hair oil, 182 tooth paste, 208 Cordials, 331-335 Coriander, 49 Corn plasters, 350, 351 Corn solvent, 351 Cosmetic almond powder, 154 cream of lilies, 145 gloves, 155 Cosmetics, 142 or stick pomatums, 175 preparation of, 157 Cosmopolitan bouquet, 88 Cotton-seed oil, 185, 250 Castile soap from, 281-286 Cowslip pomade, 162 Cream syrup, 316 Creme neige, 357 Crepon rouge, 152 Crinogen for the beard, 356 Cristiani's cachou aromatise. 216 camphor ice with glycerine, 148 chemical cathairon, 186 cococydonia, 186 cold cream, 146 Cologne essence, 120 cosmetic cream of lilies, 145 ' dental pastils, 214 detergent tooth-wash, 212 eau de Cologne, 120 Florida water, 121 ladies' cachous, 218 masticatory pastils, 215 odontine paste, 210 poudre dentifrice hygienique, 206 pyrosmia, 140 rose tooth powder. 204 shampoo lotion, 191 Crystal pomade, 163 Crystalline bear's grease, 172 pomade, 162 Cucumber cream, 147 lotion, 144 Culture of flowers for perfumes, 33 Curacoa cordial, 332 Curling fluid, 191, 364 Currant jelly, 318 Cutter, soap, 267 Cypre, sachet au, 134 Cypress, bouquet. 87 Cypress, sachet, 134 Cytheria, bouquet, 88 Damask rose, extract of, 88 Dames, bouquet des, 88 Dental pastils, Cri^tiani's, 214 Dentifrices, 203, 214 Depilatories, 193-202 Depilatory liquid, 201 pomade, 202 Detergent tooth powder, 205 tooth-wash, 212 Detersive lotion, 357 toilet soap, 343 Diamond dust for the hair, 358 390 INDEX. Dill, 50 Disinfecting segars, 358 Distillation, 821 by steam, 69 discovery of, 26 instruments for 64 Distilled waters and essences, 230-235 of rose and orange-flower from France and Italy, 232 Distilling flowers and plants, 36 Drier in powder, for paint, etc., 359 liquid for varnish, paints, etc., 358 Eau Athenian, 189 botot, 211 d'ange, 121 de beaute, 121 de bouquet de fleur, 121 de Cologne, 117, 119, 120 de fee, 122 de grand duchesse, 122 de lavand, 124 nmbre, 124 de luce, 132 de miel, 125 de millefleur, 125 de mousseliue, 126 de Komnin, 125 de sultana, 126 de vanilla, 127 de violette de Panne, 127 hygienique, 126 lustrul, 187 vulneraire, 127 Eglantine, 50 extract of, 89 Egypt, perfumery in, 23, 24 Egyptian hair-dye, 195 Elaidic acid, 359 Elder, 50 flowers emulsion, 144 soap, 306 -leaf ointment, 365 Elixir odontalgique, 212 of rose, 361 Emil blanc, 149 Emollient bath, 347 Enamel, white, 149 Eufleurage, 38 England, odors of, 35 perfumery in, 30 Epilatoire, poudre, 201 Erasive soap for grease spots, 307 Erin, flowers of, 90 Essence bouquet, H5 d'absinthe, 831 of soap, 149, 359 Essential oils, 80 and their tests, 220-230 Essential oils commercial adulterations of, 225 extracting, 221 'odors of, 222 physical properties of, 223 quantities yielded by various plants, 228 Eukesis, or essence of soap, 149 Euosmia, 89 Expression, process of, 37 Extract, cedar of Lebanon, 375 of almonds, 237 apple, 237 apricot, 237 banana, 237 blackberry, 237 celery, 238 cherry, 238 cinnamon, 238 cloves, 238 cocoa, 238 coffee, 238 ginger, 239 jargonelle pear, 239 lemon, 239 nutmegs, 239 orange, 239 flowers, 240 peach, 240 pineapple, 240 plums, 240 raspberry, 241 rose, 240 strawberry, 241 vanilla, 241 Extracts, 77-116 Eyebrow pencil, 202 Eye-paint, 360 -salve, 360 -water, 360 Fairy bouquet, 91 water, 122 Fard bleu, 156 noir, 156 Fashion bouquet, 87 Fats and oils, 244 Fde, bouquet de, 91 Fennel, 50 Fermentation, 321 Ferruginous pomade, 362 Fixature or bandoline, 192 Flag, 50 Flavoring extracts and fruit flavors, 235-241 Flavors and perfumes for segars and tobacco, 335-339 Fleur d'Orange, extrait de, 93 de Pesche, extrait de la, 104 INDEX. 331 Fleurs de Mai, extrait des, 99 d'ltalie, extrait des, 92 des champs, extrait des, 92 Floating soaps, 294, 295 Flora, bouquet de, 91 Florentine bouquet, 91 Florentine hair oil, 183 Florida, climate of, for perfumes and oils, 229 water, 122 Flower pomade, 160 Flowers, 33 aromatic oil" of, 182 for perfumery, culture of, 33 of Erin, 90 statistics of the south of France, 39 Fly powder and paper, 362 Fragrance of plants, what due to, 36 Frambois, ratafia de, 333 Frames for soaps, 256-259 France, perfumery in, 20, 29, 31 perfumes of, 34 Frangipane, sachet a la, 135 extrait de, 90 Frankincense, 362 Freckle wash, 362 Freezing mixture, 363 French flower oils, 177 flower pomade, 160 Revolution, 31 Fruit acid, 319 flavors, 235-241 jellies, 317, 318 Fumigating pastils, 139, 140 wafers, 140 Furnace with hot water to melt po- mades, etc., 71 Furniture cream, 364 oil, 364 polish, 363 Gamboge, tincture of, 74 Garden lavender, extract of, 98 Geranium, 50 extract of, 93 pomade, 163 sachet, 135 water, 123 German vegetable hair dye, 199 Ginger ale, 327 beer, 365 cordial, 332 extract of, 239 grass, 50 syrup, 316 Gin, Holland, 329 Glass alembics, 70 Glove cleaner, 305 cosmetic, 155 Glue, 366 Glycerine, 44, 192, 244 and lime-juice hair tonic, 188 balm, 146 cream, 147 hair oil, 183 hair tonic, 189 jelly, 364 jelly for the skin, 155 pomade, 162 soap, 287 Glyceryle, 244 Gold-beater's skin, 367 dust for the hair, 358 Golden oil, 183 Grasse, Cannes, and'Nice, flower statis- tics of, 39 perfumes of, 34 Grease from clothes, erasive soap for removing, 307 Grecian golden oil,' 183 Greek incense, 89 Greeks, use of perfumery by, 24, 25 Green body, 159 Gums, 203-220 Gutta-percha dressing, 366 Gypsy nosegay, 94 Hair color restorer, 195 cream, 367 dye, Hungarian, 369 dyeing, 193 dyes and depilatories, 193-202 liquid for bleaching, 348 lotion for, 357 oil, 370 oils and hair tonics, 177-193 powder, 367 tonics, 185-192 wash, 367 Hazelnut oil, 184 Headache, lotion for, 359 Hedyosmia, 94 water, 123 Heliotrope, 51 extrait au, 94 pomade, 163 sachet, 135 water, 123 Henry's vinegar, 130 Herbs and flowers, to preserve, 368 History of perfumes, 23 Holland gin, 329 Honey balsam, 145 moon bouquet, 95 mouth wash, 369 of roses, 369 sonp, 287 water, 125, 368 Honeysuckle, 51 extract of, 95 392 INDEX. Hongroise, pomade, 173 Horse-radish lotion, 868 mouth wash, 368 Hot water furnace, 71 Hovenia, 51 extract of, 95 Huile a 1'ambre, 178 antique a la fleur d'oranger, 179 a la heliotrope, 179 a la rose, 180 a la tuberose, 1 80 a la violette, 180 au bouquet, 178 au jasmine, 179 au mille-fleur, 179 d'auisette, 331 de cannella, 331 de mintbe, 332 de noisettes, 184 de noyau, 333 d'oeilett, 331 de the", 182 hygienique, 181 philocome, 181 Hungarian bair dye, 369 Hungary water, 41, 124 Hyacinth, extract of, 96 pomade, 164 Hydrometer, Baume"'s, 253 Hygienic oils, 177 Imperatrice, bouquet d', 90 Indelible inks, 371 Indes, bouquet d', 93 India, odors of, 35 perfumes in, 27 rubber cement, 354 varnish, 3-30 Indian hair dye, 194 oil, 183 nosegay, 93 Indians, American, 32 Ink, invisible, 373 Inks, 372, 373 Instruments for distillation, 64 lodinated oil, 370 Iodine lotions, 370 Iris, 51, 56 Isinglass plaster, 371 Italian hair dye, 198 nosegay, 92 violet water, 127 Italy, perfumes of, 34, 35 perfumery in, 29, 31 Itch, ointment for, 353, 371 Jaciuthe, extrait a la, 96 pomade a la, 164 Jamaica rum, 329 Japanese hair oil, 184 Japan lacker, 345 perfumery in, 29 Jasmine, 51 extract of, 79 extrait au, 96 pomade au, 164 Jellies, fruit, 317, 318 Jews, use of perfumer} 7 by, 24 Jockey club bouquet, 96 Jonquil, 51 extrait a la, 96 pomade, 164 Juniper tar pomade, 373 Kaolin cosmetic, 374 Kalyder, 373 Kettles for soap, 265 Kissengen water, 319 Kiss-me-quick, 97 Kohal, 360 Labdanum pastils, 375 Laboratories, 62 Lacker, Japan, 345 Lacquer for foil, 378 Lait virginal, 146 Lard, 250 Laurel, 51 Lavender, 52 extract of, 98 oil of, 226 pomade, 164 vinegar, 374 water, 124 Lead dye, 194 Leather, perfumed, 141 Lemon, 52 extract of, 239 grassy 52 syrup, 313 Lemons, essential salt of, 361 Lettuce soap, 291 water, 375 Lilac, 53 Lilas, extrait de, 97 Lilies, cosmetic cream of, 145 Lily, 53 of the valley, extract of, 98 white or pearl powder, 152 white pond, pomade, 172 Lime juice lotion, 374 Limette, 53 pomade, 1 65 Linn9eus, division of perfumes into classes by, 40 Lip balm, 156 salve, 375 Liquid rouge, 151 Liquidation or cleaning of soap, 271 Liquors and cordials, 331-335 INDEX. 393 Liquors cordials, domestic wines, 320-335 Lisbon water, 374 Livingstone) Dr., 32 London, perfumery manufacture of, 40, 41 Lotion for chapped hands, 352 for headache, 359 for scurf, 352 preventive, 381 Louis XIV., 30 Lozenges, 219 Lustral. eau, 187 Lutes for joints of apparatus, 376 Lycopodium powder, 154 water, 375 Lyes, 246 Macassar oil, 184 pomade, 165 Mace, 53 Machinery for milling and moulding soaps, 301-304 Magnolia, 53 extract of, 98 sachet, 136 Mahomet, 27 Malaga wine, 326 Manipulation of toilet sonps, 269-27H Marechale, bouquet de, 101 Margarine, 244 Marine cement, 377 Marjoram, 53 Marrow pomade, 166 Marseilles soaps, 242 Marshmallow soap, 287, 305 Masceration and absorption, 37 and absorption in Grasse, Cannes, and Nice, 39 Masticatory pastils, Cristiani's, 215 Materials used in perfumery, 45 May-dew milk, 376 Mayflower, extract of, 99 pomade, 165 Mead, 328 Meadow-sweet, 53 extract of, 100 Medicated and aromatic baths, 346-348 Meen fun, 155 Melissa, 54 Mignonette, 54 extract of, 107 Milk bath, 347 of roses, 376 Mille-fleur pomade, 166 sachet, 136 soap, 292 Mille-fleurs, bouquet de, 99 Milling and moulding toilet soaps, 300- 308 Minor implements for soap, 260 Mint, 54 cordial, 332 Minthe, huile de, 332 Mirbane, 54 Moelle de bcenf, philocome, 175 Mole salve, 376 Montague, Lady Mary W., 27 Mosquito lotion, 377 Moss rose, extract of, 100 Mottled Castile soap, 284 Moulding and milling toilet soaps, 300- 308 Moulds, soap, 267 Mousseline, philocome a la, 174 Moustache, pomade for, 173 wax, 174 Mouth aromatic, 217 Muse, extrait de, 100 Musk, 55 extract, 100 pomade, 166 root, 377 sachet, 136 seed, 55 soap, 291 tincture of, 74 Mustard essence, 377 Myrrh, 54 tincture of/ 74 water, 377 Myrtle, 54 blossom pomade, 166 pomade, 378 Narcissus, 55 extract of, 101 pomade, 167 Neroli, 55 pomade, 167 New-mown hay, extract of, 101 sachet, 136 Nice, perfumes of, 34, 35 Night-blooming cereus, extract of, 102 Nineveh and Babylon, 25 Nipple wash, 378 Nismes, perfumery of, 35 Noyau cordial, 333 huile de, 333 Nutmeg, 56 extract of, 239 Nymph floating soap, 295 Oatmeal soap, 306 Odalisque, bouquet d', 103 Odontine paste, 210 Odors, different countries from which derived, 34, 35 extracting, 36 of essential oils, 222 394 INDEX. Odors of plants, 35 (Eillet, extrait d', 102 huile d', 331 Oil of almonds, 226 of aniseed, 226 of bergamot, 226 of cinnamon, 226 of cloves, 226 of flowers, aromatic, 182 of lavender, 226 of palm, 57 of roses, 226 of sassafrass, 226 of tea, 182 of thyme, 228 Oils and fats, 244 and greases, advantages of combi- nation of different, 2-31 mode of working, 247 essential, 80 and their tests, 220-230 combinations of, 225 quantity yielded by various plants, 228 volatile, solubility of. 224 Ointment for barber's itch, 353 Oleine, 244 Oleophane, 296 Olibanum, 56 Olive oil, soaps of, 248 Opal dentaline, 211 yiat* totk-pst, 210 tooth-wash, 213 ppfttx, xtratt tf, It3 Orange, 56 blossom extract, 93 extract of, 239 -flower cordial, 332 extract, 79 pomade, 167 flowers, extract of, 240 syrup, 314 Oriental cream, 167 drops, 103 styptic, 213 water, 148 Orris, 56 tincture of, 386 Otto of rose, 35, 39 Paints for the face, 151 Palm oil, 57, 249 Palm soap, 272 half, 280 with rosin, 273 Palma-rosa pomade, 108, 378 L'almatine, 244 Parchment paper, 381 Paris, perfumery, manufacture of, 40, 41 Pastilles, 139 for the teeth, 214 fumantes, 139, 140 masticatory, 215, 216 Patchouly, 57 extract of, 104 sachet, 137 tincture of, 75 Pea, sweet, 57 Peach blossom, extract of, 104 extract of, 240 syrup, 313 water, 379 Pear, extract of jargonelle, 239 Pearl powder, 152 white, 151 Pearls of roses, 379 Peau d'Espagne, 141 Pelletory masticatory pastils, Cris- tinni's, 215 Pencil, eyebrow, 252 Perfect love cordial, 333 Perfumed bath, 347 beads, 379 beds, 139 leather, 141 Perfumer's art, 19 growth of the industry, 18 materials used in, 45 Perfumes, division of into classes, 40 for pomade or hair oil, cheap, 380 for segars and tobacco, 335-339 for soaps, 252 history of, 23 not injurious to health, 18 properties of, 34 use of, 17 Perfuming apartments, 141 Persia, perfumery in, 23 Peru, balsam of, 46 tincture of, 76 Peruvian tooth paste, 209 powder, 207 Petit-grain, 57 Phenolin pomade, 173 Philocome a la mousseline, 174 moelle de boeuf, 175 pomades, 168, 174 Phosplmtic tooth powder, 381 Piles, ointment for, 380 Pimento, 45 Pineapple, extract of, 240 cider, 328 eordial, 333 syrup, 313 Pink, 57 saucers, 152 Pistachio nut cream or lotion, 148 INDEX. 395 Plants, fragrance of, what due to, 36 Plums, extract of, 240 Pois de senteur, extrait du, 108 Polish for shoes, 379 Pomade a la rose, 170 blonde, 200 divine, 150 for moustache, 173 Hongroise, 173 Romaine, 169 a la ambrosie, 169 sultana, 170 Pomades and cosmetics, 157-176 preparation of, 157 Pomatums, stick, 175 Pompeii, perfumery in ruins of, 26 Pond lily pomade, 172 extract of, 105 Populeum pomade, 380 Portugal, odors of, 35 Pot-pourri, 138 Poudre, blonde, 200 dentifrice allemande, 204 de menthe, 205 hygienique, Cristiani's, 206 de riz, 153 epilatoire, 201 subtile, 201 Powder for fumigation, 381 for perspiring feet, 381 Powdered soaps, 295 Preparations for the skin, 142-156 Primrose, extract of, 105 pomade, 168 Printaniers, 138 Purple sweet sultana, 83 Pyrethene tooth wash, 213 Pyrosmia, Cristiani's, 140 Quatre voleurs, vinaigre des, 130 Queen's nosegay, 106 Quince jelley, 318 Quince seed fixature or bandoline, 192 Quinine hair tonic, 190 Quiniue pomade, 169 Rack, soap, 264 Raisin wine, 324 Rancid butter, to remedy, 382 Rasma, Turkish, 382 Raspberry, extract of, 241 syrup, 313, 317 vinegar, 317 Ratafia de frambois, 333 of fruit, 382 Razor paste, 382 Red body, 159 Refrigerator, 66 Reine, bouquet de la, 106 Rendelatia, extract of, 107 Rene, 30 Reseda, extrait de, 107 Restorer, hair color, 195 Retorts, 70 Rhatany tooth paste, 382 Rhodium, 58 Roi, bouquet du, 106 Romaine, pomade, 169 Roman perfumes, 26 Romans, use of perfumes by, 24, 26 Rondelatia pomade, 170 Root beer, 327 Rose, 58 cordial, 333 damask, extract of, 88 extract of, 79, 240 of moss, 100 extrait a la. 107 hair oil, 185 lip salve, 151 pomade a la, 170 sachet, 137 soap, 287, 305 toilet powder, 153 tooth pastes, 208 powder, 204 vinaigre a la, 131 white, pomade, 172 Rosemary hair wash, 190 Roses, oil of, 226 Rosin, 249 Rosmary, 58 Rouge de theatre, 152 vegetal, 355 Rouges and paints for the face, 151 Royal nosegay, 106 Rum, Jamaica, 329 shrub, 334 Sachet powders, 133-142 Saffron, tincture of, 70 Sage, 58 Sal volatile, spirits of, 132 Santal, 59 tincture of, 75 -wood pastils, 139 Sapophane, 296 Saratoga water, 320 Sarsaparilla syrups, 315, 316 Sassafras, 59 oil of, 226 + Savon au benzoin, 289 au bouquet, 290 au muse, 291 nu sue de laitue, 291 d'ambr6 surfin, 290 Savonettes, 299 Scurf, lotion for, 352 Sealing wax, 383 Sea-water bath, 346 396 INDEX. Segars, disinfecting, 358 Seidlitz water, 319 Serpolet, 59 Shampoo liquor, 383 liquid, 191 lotion, Cristiani's, 191 Shaving cream, 293 Sherbet syrup, 315 Sherry, 325 Silver dust for the hair, 358 hair dyes, 196, 197 Siphon for lye, 253 Snow cream, 357 Soap, almond. 279 alum, 343 ambergris, 290 antiseptic, 344 benzoin, 289 bouquet, 290, 305 cocoa-nut oil, 274 cutter, 267 dentifr'ce, 207 detersive toilet, 343 elder-flower, 306 erasive, 307 essence of, 359 essences, 296 half-palm, 280 honey, 287 kettle, 255 lettuce, 291 marshmallow, 287, 305 mill, 268 millefleur, 292 minor implements for manufacture of, 260 musk, 291 oatmeal, 306 palm, 272 palm with rosin. 273 presses, 261-263 rack, 264 rose, 287, 305 separation, 270 toilet, compounding, 286-293 tooth paste, 209 violet, 292 white, for colored soaps by cold process, 278 white, for stock, 270 Windsor, 287, 288 yellow, 279 Soaps, American, 43 by patent processes, 307, 308 English, 42 floating, 294, 295 frames for, 256-259 French, 42 glycerine, 287 Soaps miscellaneous, 293-300 perfumes for, 252 powdered, 295 toilet. 42 by the cold process, 276-281 implements and ingredients, 242-269 milling and moulding, 300-308 transparent, 297-299 Spa water, 320 Spain, odors of, 35 Spirits of sal volatile, 132 Sponges, liquid, for bleaching, 353 Spring flowers, extract of, 108 Spruce beer, 327 Stains, to remove, 361 Star aniseed, 46 Statistics of flower culture of Grasse, Cannes, and Nice, 39 Steam, distillation by, 69 kettle, 255, 256 Stearine, 244 Stick pomatums, 175 Still, 64, 65 and water bath for transparent soaps, 266 Stock, white soap, 270 Storax, 59 Strawberry cordial, 333 extract of, 241 syrup, 312 Stye lotion, 382 Styptic, 383 Styrax, tincture of, 75 Suave, extrait, 108 Subtile, poudre, 201 Succinated spirits of ammonia, 132 Sulphur lotion, 149 Sulphuretted bath, 348 toilet powder, 154 Sultana, pomade a la, 170 Summer blossoms, extract of, 109 Sweetbrier, 50 extract of, 89 Sweet clover, extract of, 109 flag, extract of, 110 pea, 57 extract of, 105 Syringa, extract of, 108 Syrup of banana, 313 Syrups, jellies, candies, their flavors and colors, 309-320 Tallow, working, 247 Tea, oil of, 182 rose, extract of, 110 Teeth, gums, and breath, 203-220 Tests of essential oils, 220-230 INDEX. 397 Tetter ointment, 384 Thd, toniquede, 189 Thousand flowers, bouquet of, 99 Thyme, 59 oil of, 228 Tincture of orris, 386 Tinctures, 12-77 Tobacco and segars, flavors and per- fumes for, 335-339 Toilet powders, 152 soups, 42 by the cold process, 276-281 compounding, 286293 implements and ingredients, 242-269 manipulation of 269-276 milling and moulding, 300-308 waters, 117-133 Tolu, balsam of, 47, 60 tincture of, 76 Tonique de the", 189 Tonquin, 60 pomade, 158 tincture of, 75 Tooth paste, areca nut, 344 rhatany, 382 pastes, 208-210 powder, French, 363 phosphated, 381 powders, 204-207, 361 washes, 211-214 Toothache drops, 384 Transparent soap:?, 297-299 Tricophalon pomade, 384 Tuberose, 60 extract of, 79, 110 pomade, 171 Tulip, extract of, 111 Turkey, otto of rose of, 35 Turkish nosegay, 1 11 Turmeric, tincture of, 76 Turquie, bouquet de, 111 United States, odors of, 35 perfumery manufacture in, 40 UrsaHna, 172 Usquebaugh, 334 Vanilla, 60 cordial, 334 extract of, 111,241 pomade, 159, 171 syrup, 316 tincture of, 76 Varnish, Chinese, 345 for artists, 384 Varnishes, 385 Vat for lye, 254 Vegetable hair dyes, 199 Vegetable tincture for hair Venus, bouquet de, 112 nosegay, 112 Verbena, 60 pomade, 171 sachet, 137 water, 128 Verveine, extrait de, 112 Vichy water, 319 Vinaigre a la rose, 131 violette, 131 aromatique, 129 de rouge, 152 des quatre voleurs, 130 Vinegar, Henry's, 130 manufacture of, 334, 335 Violet, 61 cosmetic, 176 extract of, 80, 112 pomade, 171, 172 sachet, 137 soap, 292 toilet powder, 153 tooth paste, 209 wash, 213 Violets, cold cream of, 147 Violette, vinaigre a la, 131 Vitivert, 61 tincture of, 77 Volatile essence, 133 Volatile oils in plants, 36 Volatilization of perfumes, 43 Voleurs, vinaigre des quatre, 130 Volkameria, extract of, 113 Wall- flower, extract of, 113 Wart pomade, 386 Wash balls, 299 Water bath, 67 of Italian flowers, 125 Waxed tables, varnish for, 385 Weights and measures, 340-342 West-end bouquet, 114 sachet, 138 White Castile soap, 283 enamel, 1-J9 pond lily pomade, 172 rose pomade, 172 soap for colored soaps by cold pro- cess, 2; 8 for stock, 270 White Windsor soap, 287 Wig paste, 386 Wild flowers, extract of, 92 Windsor soap, 287, 288 Wine, ambergris, 344 bitters, 330 blackberry, 323 398 Wine raisin, 324 Wines, 323-326 Wintergreen, 61 Wisteria, extract of, 113 Wood violet, extract of, 112 Woodbine, 51 INDEX. Woodbine, extract of, 95 Yacht club bouquet, 114 Yellow body, 159 Yellow soap, 279 Ylang ylang, 61 extract of, 114 RSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRA T .-v < J7T "V RETURN CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT TO ^ 202 Main Library LOAN PERIOD 1 HOME USE 2 3 4 5 6 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 1 -month loans may be renewed by calling 642-3405 6-month loans may be recharged by bringing books to Circulation Desk Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date DUE AS STAMPED BELOW RETD APR 2 UfcR g fiigg4 FEB 1 8 ds I '1 c. W^ f u $AN 5 2002 FEB 0*2^05 I ' NOV 2 7 1989 *UG 18 1992 AIITDDKCC1RC KU&3& .v.wwwtUKt JUJ. It) 93 FOR- UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DD6, 60m, 12/80 BERKELEY, CA 94720 40342 BERKELEY LIBRARIES COObS7D3Sl *- ^ UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY