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PALESTINE and SYRIA, with 18 Maps, 43 Plans, a Pane- raiua of -lerusalem, ami 10 \'iews. 18TG. 20 marks. CONVl-lRSATION DICTIONARY in four languages: Eng- lisli, Frencli, German, Italian. 3 marks. IIIE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL 01" CONVERSATION, in Knm.i.sii, Gi kman, Fkkncii, and Italian. 3 marks. UPPER EGYPT AND NUBIA AS FAR AS THE SECOND CATARACT EGYPT HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS EDITED BY K. BAEDEKER PART SECOND: UPPER EGYPT, WITH NUBIA AS FAR AS THE SECOm) CATARACT AND THE WESTERN OASES WITH 11 MAPS AND 26 PLANS LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER 1892 All rights reserved 'Go, little book, God send thee good passage. And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call Thee to correct iu any part nr all.'' GOQ. PEEFACE. ARTS The present volume forms the secoutl part of the Edi- tor's Handbook for J^gypt, the first part of which has reached a second edition in 1885. The materials upon which this Handbook to Upper Egypt is chiefly founded were contributed principally by Professor Georg Ehers of Leipsic, and Professor Johannes Dumichen of Strassburg, and their work, which was mainly finished in 1877, has been revised, augmented, and brought xip to date in all practical details by Professor August Eisenlohr of Heidelberg, who has twice visited Egypt for this express purpose. To Prof. Ebers the editor is indebted for the account of the Nile-voyage as far as and including Phil* ; Prof. Dli- michen contributed the descriptions of the temples of Den- derah and Edfu, of the town ofKeneh, and of the caravan- routes thence via the quarries of Hamamat to Koser on the Red Sea ; while the routes in Lower Nubia and to the Western Oases are wholly from the pen of Prof. Eisenlohr. The practical introduction to the first volume , and the sections on the geography, history , and art of Egypt, there published , apply of course also to the districts of Upper Egypt. The special introduction to the present volume deals chiefly with the Nile voyage and the necessary preparations for it, preceded by a brief survey of the chief steamer-routes between Egypt and Europe and a note on the new Egyptian monetary system, in-troduced since the publication of the Handbook to Lower Egypt. A list of works on Egypt is added , and , to obviate the necessity of too frequent re- ferences to the first volume , also a chronological list of the rulers of Egypt down to the close of the Ptolemaic period, and a selection from the royal cartouches of most frequent occurrence in Upper Egypt. Fiually the Arabic Alphabet is given, showing the system of transliteration adopted in this Handbook. The Maps and Plans have been an object of especial care. The former are based upon the large maps of Kiepert, Lepsius, and Linant; the latter chiefly upon the plans of Lcpsius, though with the necessary additions and corrections, while some have been specially prepared by Prof. Eisenlohr. vl PREFACE. Heights above the sea-level and other measurements are given iu English feet or miles. Though nearly every page of the Handbook has been compiled from personal observation and experience , and although the conservative East is not nearly so liable to changes as the more progressive West, the Editor makes no claim to absolute accuracj^ in every detail; and he will feel indebted to any traveller who, from personal experience, may be able to indicate errors or omissions in the Handbook. The same remark applies equally to the Prices and various items of expenditure mentioned in the volume. The expense of a tour is much more directly affectcMl by the circumstances of the moment and the individualitj' of the traveller in the East than in Europe ; though it may here be added that the arrangements of Messrs. Cook and' Gaze (pp. xiv, xv), of which most visitors to Upper Egj^pt will avail themselves, oifer a comparative immunity against extortion. A carefully drawn up contract will similnrly protect those who prefer to hire a dhahabtyeh for themselves. CONTENTS. Xll Introduction. ^"^'^ I. Steamer Routes between Europe and Eevut II. Monetary System ... syp . . . . xi III. The Nile Voyage .......' IV. "Works on Egypt y. Chronological List of the ancient rufers of Egypt ' xxyI ArTT ST'"^1^ 'f *''''""§ "^™es «f Egyptian Kings . . xxxi VII. The Arabic Alphabet xxxviii Route 1. From Cairo to Assiut a a. By Railway , b. By the Nile ! The Pyramid and Mastabas of Medu'm 9 Ahnas el-Medineh (Heracleopolis) t From Benisuef to the Fayum t Convents of SS. Anthony and Paul r Behnesah ... ° Wadi et-Ter ..*.'.' " ' 5 From Mi£yeh to Benihasan .' ." n Ashmunen (Hermopolis Magna) '. in Beni 'Adin ... j,^ 2. The Fayum .....'.".".'.'.■.■.";; 3I Situation and History of the Fayilm ok ^^l"^^°''«/^0'a Medinet el-Faytim. Bihamn.' Ebgig." ." ' 38 Pyramid of Hawarah. The Ancient Labyrinth ^ «• " • ^° Lake Wceris ... ■! " oj Pyramid of el-Lahun. ' Garob ." f? Birket el-Kurun and Kasr Kuriin 19 d. From Assiut to Belianeh ', '. . In Kau el-Kebir (Antpeopolis) . ;,7 The Red and the White Co'nv'ents . /,o Akhmim (Khemmis) . . . ?o 4. Abydos ^9 Memnonium of Seti I. . ks Sepulchral Temple of Ramses 11." ! 07 Necropolis of Abvdos ... . • • • ■ d( 5. From Belianeh to Keneh (Denderah) '. '. 70 Diospolis Parva -f, Kasr es-Saiyad (Chenoboskion)' ." .' -rV Tabenna (Tabennesus) . 70 o. Routes through the Eastern Desert .......' 73 From Keneh to Myos Hormos ... 73 From Keneh or Kuft to Koser via Wadi Hamamfit .' " ' ' 71 ^rom Koser to Laketah via Wadi Kash .' . ' ' 77 From Keneh or Redesiyeh to Berenike - • • The Emerald Mines of the Gebel Zabarah . • • • • • '. Denderah .... " ' ' 79 viii CONTENTS. Route Pago 8. From Keneh to Thebes (Luxor) 98 9. Thebes' 101 A. The East Bank at Thebes 109 10. The Temple of Luxor 109 11. Karnak 115 L The Great Temple of Ammon 116 a. General View. The First Main Pylon IIB b. The Great Peristyle Court and its Additions .... 118 c. The Great Hypostyle Hall 125 d. The North Exterior Wall of the Hypostyle 127 e. The Older E. part of the Temple of Ammon .... 131 f. The S. side of the Temple of Amnion 141 IL The Northern Buildings 143 HL The Southern Buildings 144 IV. The Temple of Khunsu 148 V. The Small Temple of Apet 150 Excursion to Medamut 151 B. The West Bank at Thebes 152 12. The Colossi of Memnon 153 13. The Ramesseum 158 14. The Tombs of Kurnet-Murrai 168 15. Medinet Habu . 171 a. Pavilion of llanises III 172 b. Large Temple of Ramses III 174 c. Small Temple of Medinet Habu 184 16. Tombs of the Queens 186 Tomb of uxor or Assuaii either on the way up or the way down (after previous ar- rangement with Cooks' manager in Cairo), and proceed by a sub- sequent steamer, if there are vacant berths. The mail-steamers, usually less crowded than the others, may be used in descending the stream. In all these di-viations from the usual tonrs, very strict adherence to the terms of the special arrangement is exacted. Trav- ellers arc strongly recommended to time their voyage so as to ar- rive at Luxor 3-4 days before full moon ; for moonlight adds a pe- culiar charm to a visit to the ruins here atid at Assuan. Passengers by steamer should beware of the risk of catching cold by leaving the windows of their cabin open. They should also avoid placing themselves too near the edge of tlie deck ; and it is well to remember {e.g. when shaving) that the steamers frequently run aground, especially above Luxor. Liability to delay through this last fact, makes it impossible to bo sure of reaching Cairo in time to make connection with the ocean-steamers. Korthf JIail .'md Tcmrist Sliaincrs between the First and Second Cataract Philie to Wadi Halfah), see p. 299. NILE JOURNEY. xix b. The Dhahabiyeh Voyage. Though the voyage in a Dhahabiyeh demands much more time and money than the steamboat-voyage, on the other hand it offers the only means of a satisfactorily close examination of the country and its monuments. A party of 4-5 persons will be found advisable, especially as the expense is not much more than for 1-2 persons. A large selection of good dhahubiyehs is to be found at Cairo, on the left bank of the Nile both above and below the new bridge at Bulak. Travellers who take the train from Cairo to Assiiit should despatch their boat from Cairo about a fortnight in advance, for there are no good dhahabiyehs either at Assiut or farther iip at Luxor andAssuan. In Cairo the best dhahabiyehs are those belong- ing to Messrs. Cook& Son ('/sis', '0.s^ris^ '■Horus', 'Hathor\ ^Neph- this% and '■Ammon-Ra', costing 130l. per month) or Messrs. Gaze & Son (^^Sesostris', ^Cheops', '£ferodotM/, and 'l/opc^ llOi. per month). Other good craft, with the monthly hire, are as follows : '■Diamond' (lOOi.), 'Eva' (SOL), 'Admirar {S5i:), 'Timsah' {QOl.), 'London', 'Luxor\ 'PhilcE' (each 75i.), 'India'' (85i.), 'Alma'', 'Nuhia\ 'Ze- nobid', 'Gamila' (each 90i.), 'Lotus' (70L), 'Meermin', 'Manhattan' (each 75;.), 'Gr'>f(in' (80i.), 'Zingara' (65f.), and 'Vittoria' (55i.). These prices include the hire of the dhahabiyeh and its full equipment and the wages of the re'is or captain and the crew. For the services of a dragoman, cook, and attendant, and for provisions, saddles, and all the incidental expenses of excursions (excluding bakshish), the price per day and per pers. is calculated thus : — Cook Gaze Dragoman Party of 2, each pers. 33s. 35s. 30s. - - 3 - - 28s. 27s. 24s. - _ 4 - - 24s. 25s. 20s. - - 5 - 22s. 20s. ISs. - 6 or more, 20s. 16s. 16s. Thus for a voyage of 60 days from Cairo to Assuan and back, including the payment of a dragoman and all provisions (except wine, etc.). Cook charges 5901. for a party of 5 (i.e. iiSl. each pers., or 39s. id. each per day). For smaller parties, the cost per head is considerably more. A three months' voyage in the 'Manhattan' (the property of a dragoman) costs 4S5Z. for a party of 4 (i.e. Gl. lOs. per day, or 32s. 6d. each pers. per day). The inclusive charge for Cook's excellent steam-dhahabiyeh 'Nitocris' (5 berths) is 400i. per month, a sum that will not appear exorbitant when the time saved by steaming is taken into account. Tliosp. who employ Cook's or Gaze's dbahabij-elis are relieved from all trouble in tlie matfcr of engaging a dragoman (quite indispensable to the traveller who speaks no Arabic) or purchasing provisions. And there are the additional advantages that the stores of meat, fowls, vegetables, and fruit can be replenished en route from the steamers, and that, in case of head-winds, the small Steam Towing Launches belonging to these firms, may be hired for 6-8z. per day. b* XX NILE JOURNEY. The fliarteriug of a private dliahabiyeh is much cheaper though much more troublesome. The first step is to engage a Dragoman^ not without a careful enquiry as to his reconl at the consulate and from the hotel-keepers, and an examination of the testimonials from previoxis travellers. Tliere are about 90 dragomans in Cairo, all more or less intelligent and able, but scarcely a half of the number are trustworthy. Most of them speak English or French, and a few speak Italian. The following are well spoken of: Uassaii Speke, Ahmed Ramadan, Ibrahim Solent, Ahmed Abderrahim (owner of the Jlanhaltan, p. xix), Ifasan Bibars, Salim tSadJar. Hishai Awad, Abdullah AbUelkhalik (all these Egyp- tians); Suleh (a Nubian); Afichael Gait, Anton iSapien:a (Maltose); MansUr, Lewiz Mans'&r, Dueyhis FadtU, Elias Telliany, and Elias Abushdya (Syrians). It cannot be too strongly impressed upon the traveller that it is essential for him to show from the very beginning that he is and intends to re- main the master. Even the best dragomans are inclined to patronize their clients, a tendency which must at once be quashed. The next step is to select a suitable dhahabiyeh assisted by the dragoman. A contract is then made with the dragoman, either en- trusting him with the entire preparations, or assigning to him only the duty of engaging and paying the re'is and crew, while the trav- eller retains the commissariat department in his own hands. The re'is or steersman is a most important functionary upon whose skill during the often stormy passage the safety of the vessel depends. The crew number from 8 to 12 according to the size of the dhaha- biyeh. The vessel is either hired by the day (for 2 pers. 5-6i., 3 or 4 pers. 6-7L) or chartered for the whole return-voyage to Assuan (for 2 pers. 300-350^., 3 or 4 pers. 350-400L). In the former case the dragoman will try to travel as slowly as possible to protract his engagement; in the latter case he will press on, so as to save boat-hire and board. The latter arrangement is preferable, but the right of halting for 15-20 days in the course of the journey should carefully be stipulated for. The dragoman must also provide don- keys and camels for the excursions. Farther details are indicated in the following draft-contracts, in which it is believed that nothing of importance has been overlooked. The contract must he signed at the traveller's consulate, either with the dragoman alone if he has undertaken the whole of the arrangements, or with the dragoman and re'is, when the traveller has hired the dhahabiyeh and paysboard to the dragoman. Contract with the Dragoman. — Mr. X. and his travelling companions on the one hand, and the Dnigoman Y. on the other, have mutually entered into the following conlr.act: — (1) The l)ragoin.in Y. binds^ himself to conduct Mr. X. and his party from Cairo to Assuan (or Wadi ITalfah), and back, for the sum of . . . .pounds sterling. (2) The Dragoman Y. shall exclusively defray the whole travelling expenses of the party, including the hire of the dhiihabiych, sufficiently manned, ami equipped to the satisfaction of Mr. X., the entire cost of food, service, lighting, pilotage, watching the boat, and all charges for donkeys, dunkcy-hoys, camels, and guides. (3) The Dragoman Y. shall provide a good bed with moustiquaire NILE JOURNEY. xxi (raosquito-cnrtains) for each member of the party, with all necessary bed and table linen, table-equipage, and implements in good condition. Each person shall have two clean towels every four days, a clean table-napkin every second day, and clean sheets once a week. (4) The Dragoman Y. undertakes the entire provisioning of Mr. X. and his party. The following meals shall be served daily : 1. Breakfast, consisting of tea, coffee, or chocolate (at the travellers' option), bread, butter, biscuits, eggs, marmalade (or whatever the traveller is accustomed to); 2. Lunch, consisting of. ... 3. Dinner, consisting of . . . . [The trav- eller may adjust the bill of fare to his taste, but it may be remarked that Kile-voyagers usually enjoy an excellent appetite, and that a choice of several dishes afl'ords an iigreeable variety without adding much to the cost. For lunch 2-3 courses are usually demanded, and for dinner, soup, 3 courses, and desert.] All the dishes shall be well-cooked and properly served. Fresh bread shall be baked every second day. For each guest invited by the travellers to breakfast the dragoman shall receive 3 fr., for each guest at dinner 4 fr. (5) A lighted lamp shall be affixed outside the dhahabiyeh at night. (6) A small boat in good condition shall accompany the dhahabiyeh, and shall be at all times at the disposal of the travellers, with the ne- cessary crew. Two or more sailors shall accompany the travellers when the latter desire to land, and shall serve as watches or porters when required. (7) The dhahabiyeh shall be maintained in a good and efficient con- dition. The deck shall be washed every morning. (S) The Dragoman Y. is responsible for the maintenance of order among the crew; and he shall take care that both the crew and the atten- dants are quiet at night so as not to prevent the travellers from sleeping. (9) When the wind is unfavourable, the dhahabiyeh shall be towed on the way upstream or rowed on the way downstream. (10) The Dragoman Y. is alone responsible for any damage that may occur to the dhahabiyeh or the small boat. (11) No passenger or goods shall be received on board without the ex- press permission of Mr. X. (12) The travellers reserve to themselves the right of halting for 15-20 days in the course of the voyage, without extra charge, at such times and places as they may select. Halts of less than 2 hrs. shall not be reckoned; but the travellers will not avail themselves of this exception oftener than once a day. (13) The travellers shall have the right of halting for more days than are stipulated for in paragraph 12, on condition of paying 20 fr. each pers. for each extra day, in addition to the boat-hire. Thus if the dha- habiyeh has been hired for 301. per month or 25 fr. per day, a party of 3 pers. would pay for each extra day 3x20-(-25=85 fr. (14) If the dhahabiyeh reaches a spot during the night, at which the Dragoman Y. has been instructed to stop, a halt must be made; and the day's halt to be reckoned to the traveller shall not begin until sunrise. (15) The Re'is shall have the right of halting for 24 hours on two occasions for the purpose of baking bread for the crew. These periods (48 hrs.) shall not be reckoned against the traveller; nor shall any other halt not expressly commanded by Mr. X., whether due to bad weather or any other cause, be so reckoned. The halt for baking shall be made at Assiut, and not at Girgeh (comp. p. 52). (16) One-third of the stipulated price shall be paid to the Dragoman Y. before the commencement of the voyage; one-third during the voyage; and the remaining third on its completion. [Or one-half before the voyage is begun and one-half on its completion.] (17) In the event of disputes or differences in carrying out this con- tract, Mr. X. and the Dragoman Y. bind themselves to submit uncon- ditionally such disputes or diiferences to the arbitration of the consul, before whom it has been signed. (18) The voyage shall begin on such and such a day. Then follow the signatures of the traveller and the dragoman. xxii NILE JOURNEY. Contract with the Re'is. Mr. X. on the one hand, and the Re'is Y. on the other have mutually entered into the following contract: — (1) The Re'is V., owner (or captain) of the dhahabiyeh named Z., now anchored at Kulak (or Kamleh), agrees to hire that vessel with all ne- ces8ary equipments in good condition to Blr. X. for a voyage to Upper E;jypt, for the price of n pounds sterling for the first month, and n pounds sterling for each day thereafter. [If the traveller desires to pass the cataract as described on p. 273, he must ascertain whether the dhahabiyeh Is fit for the passage, and in that case add to paragraph 1: The Re'is Y. declares the dhahabiyeh fit for passing the' first cataract. Mr. X. shaU in no wise be responsible for any damage sustained by the dhahabiyeh in passing the cataract.] (2) The Re'is Y. binds himself to present the dhahabiyeh in the best- possible condition for sailing. The mast, sails, and rudder shall be strong and in good condition. The crew shall consist of (at least) 6-8 able-bodied and experienced sailors and a second re'is or steersman. (3) A good and efficient small boat (fellukab) shall accompany the dhahat)iyeh, and shall at all times be at the disposal of Mr. X., with at least threo sailors as crew, cither for excursions, for hunting, or other object. (4) When the wind is favourable the voyage shall be continued during the night, when Mr. X. desires it. When the wind is unfavourable, the dhahabiyeh shall be towed from sunrise to sunset. (5) The Re'is Y. shall cause the dhahabiyeh to halt or to start at such times as Mr. X. shall direct, lie binds himself to select safe and proper anchorages. Mr. X.\s express permission must be obtained before any of the sailors shall be allowed to quit the dhahabiyeh for some hours, either to go to market, to visit their friends, or for any other purpose. (G) The dhahabiyeh shall be washed daily , special care being be- stowed upon the after-deck, on which Mr. X. travels. A good and efficient awning adapted to shade the after-deck shall be provided, and shall be rigged on Mr. X.'s request, unless the state of the wind prevents it. The Re'is shall cause a liglited lamp to be hung outside the dhahabiyeh at night. (7) No p;issengers or persons other than the crew, and no gonds .shall be received on board the dhahabiyeh without the express permission of Mr. X. Mr. X. has the right of receiving on board as many companions and as much luggage as he chooses. (8) When the traveller desires to spend some time on shore (e.jr. at Thebes or Phila-), the Re'is shall direct at least two sailors to act as guards over the tent, or temple, or other place where the traveller may spend the night. (9) The Re'is and crew shall at all times be obliging and respectful to Mr. X. and his party. Two sailors shall be at all times at the disposal of the travellers to accompany them on shore and to carry provisions, books, boxes, a ladder, or whatever shall be required. (10) During the absence of the travellers from the dhahabiyeh, the Re'is binds himself to mainlain it in good condition, and to take charge of any possessions left by the travellers on board. lie binds himself also to indemnify the travellers for any of their possessions that may be stolen or injured while under his charge. (11) Tlie travellers shall be responsible for all damage done to the dhahabiyeh through tlicir fault, but they shall on no account be liable for damage arising from any other cause whatever. If the Ke'is is prevented by any cause, not due to the fault of the travellers, from continuing the voyage, the travellers shall pay only for as many days as the voyage has actually lasted. (12) Fees charged for the pa.ssagc of the bridge at Cairo and the first cataract, by the dhahabiyeh shall be paid by the hirer. IThese fees arc fixed by I'.gyptian officials according to the size of the dhahabiyeh.] (13) 3Ir. X. and the Ke'is Y. bind themselves to submit all disputes which may arise as to the carrying out of this contract to the arbitration of the consul in whose presence it has been signed. Travellers who know some Arabic or who are already acquainted PROVISIONS. with Egypt and its people may dispense with a dragoman, engaging only a Camp-Servant (about Al. a month, with l-2l. bakshish) and a Cook (5-6J. a month and i-2l. bakshish). The former, who must understand some European language as well as Arabic, will assist in the search for a good dhahabiyeh ; and the advice of the hotel- keeper will also be found of use. The hire of the boat will be at least loi. per month, and the wages of the Re'is and about 12 rowers 20-2ii., vdth 40-50s. bakshish, in all 3Q-38L The Contract with the Servant may be as follows : The Servant Y. binds himself for a payment of — , to accompany Mr. X. on his journey to Nubia (or elsewhere) in the capacity of camp-servant (or cook), and farther binds himself to discharge willingly and attentively the services that may be demanded of him by Mr. X. and his party. Provisions. The following firms may be recommended from the writer's personal experience to those travellers who attend to their own commissariat: Walker (.f Co . , Ezbekiyeh 16-20, for preserved meats and other eatables ; Nicola Zigada^ beside Shepheard's Hotel, for eatables and wine ; E. J. Fleurant, opposite the Cre'dit Lyonnais, for French and Austrian Avine. The following list of articles taken by a party of three for two months voyage, will assist the traveller to select his fare. 2[/b lbs. of tea in tins ID lbs. of coffee 1 bag of green coflfee 1 tin of cocoa i doz. tins of condensed niilk 1 tin of tapioca 2 tins of Julienne soup 7 lbs. of maccaroni soup 11 lbs. of maccaroni 45 lbs. of rice 1 pot of extract of meat 1 bottle of ket soup 2 tins of condensed vegetables 4 tins of green peas 6 tins of French beans 6 tins of white beans 1 tin of arrowroot 11 lbs. of biscuits 13 lbs. of bacon 15 lbs. of ham 2 tins of ox-tongue 3 tins of preserved meat 1 bottle of Worcester sauce 1 bottle of pickles IS small boxes of sardines 12 large boxes of sardines 2 bottles of olives 7 llis. of dried apricots 10 lbs. of plums (in tins) 1 box of figs IV2 lb. of candied lemon-peel 21/5 lbs. of Malaga raisins 1 lb. of sultana raisins 2'/'2 lbs. of currents 1 bag of maize flour 2 casks of flour 48 lbs. of salt (in tins) 2 bottles of essences 1 packet of spice 1 tin of pepper 2 bottles of vinegar 3 bottles of salad-oil 1 bottle of mustard 1 bottle of French mustard 2 packets of gelatine 2 barrels of potatoes 1 Cheshire cheese 2 Dutch cheeses 11 lbs. of syrup 15 lbs. of loaf-sugar 15 lbs. of butter in V-i It)- tins 17 lbs. of butter in 1/2 lb. tins 20 packets of candles 1 bottle of lamp-oil 1 barrel of paraffin-oil 1 box of toilet-soap 4 bars of soap 1 tin of soda 1 packet of starch Blacking and blacking-brushes 3 packets of paper 2 packets of matches Wood and charcoal Corkscrew 2 knives for opening tins 1 tin of knive-powder Baking-powder String and rope Wine, etc. 60 bottles of Medoc at 2 fr. per bot. 36 - - Medoc sup^rieur at 3 fr. xxiv EQUIPMENT. 35 bottles of red Viislauerl ,«./ ,. 1 bottle of whiskey 25 - - white - |-"^/2l'-- 1 . . vermuth 20 - - beer A little champagne for festivals and 1 bottle of brandy 1 bottle of cognac the reception of guests. A hanging-lamp, bought in the Muski for 20 fr., suspended over the saloon-table, and a pack of playing-cards were found very convenient. The above stores, purchaseil for 28i., not only were amply suf- flcient, but 70s. worth was returned to the dealers at the end of the voyage. For no one should omit to make an arrangement entitling; him to return unused stores (at a reduction of about 10"/o o" the original price) and to have the agreement entered on tlie invoice. Other stores, such as eggs, fresh beef, buffalo -meat, mutton, poultry, oranges, lemons, etc., are taken only in small supplies, it being easy to replenish the larder en route, either from the steamers or still better from the markets on the banks, where prices are mo- derate. The cook makes the purchases and submits his accounts. Average prices. Fowl, 4-9 piastres, according to quality; fat turkey, 45-G2; hen-turkey 22-36; pair of pigeons 4-8; sheep 128-350; 16 eggs, 5-8; rotl (about 15 oz.) of butter 9-13; rotl of beef, "i-S; rntl of mutton 4-5 piastres. Various kinds of provisions, including some delicacies, are to be ob- tained from the bakkals or small dealers of Minyeh, AssiHt, Keneh, Luxor, Esue/i, and A.'ssiian. Tobacco for chibouques may be obtained in the bazaars, also at Assitit, Keneh, and Esneh ; the best mixture is 1/2 (^fbeli and I'o Kitrdni. The best Turkish tobacco (Stambuli) and cigarettes may be bought iti Cairo from Nestor Gi'inachis and E. Zalichi r^^^^ kV ^3: ID r\ Kamscs II., favourite of Amnion, and bis father Seti I., the Sesohtris of the Greeks. n\\\ ^E^ ] j 1¥ Q Seset.su (Sesostris.) C p p-^ ^ ] \ NAMES OF KINGS. Mereiiptah I. (Menephthes). 19. I Seti II. (Merenptah). 19. 1 AAA^^A "^ A l\ Ramses III. 20. 1 o 1 A A Samsps IV. 20, Ramses V. 20. Ramses VI. 20. Ramses V II. 20 . ry\ r-:^rr\ n\r:\ r\r~^ o o o o m X. 17TTT nn Kamses IX. (Leps. Ramses X. (Leps. Ramses XI. (Xeps. Ramses VIII. 20. Ramses XI.) 20. Ramses IX.1 20. Ramses XII. 1 20. :. (Leps. il.) 20. 111 k. 1^ 1 — I o AAAAAA o I V I ^ PI 1 — '• d O Q n^^ o 1 1 I AA^VW\ . _ ..... Sheshenk IV. 23. 1P o ' o D — A I O I Ramses XII. (Leps. Sheshenk (Sesoncliis) I. 2 2. Ramses XIII.) 20. O Q 1 111111 *f T T ^•^■'^^'•''^ \ /"""^ ^1 (j^g J(fflMTj ris). 3 \ Osorkon I. 22. A/VWAA ^ Bokenranf (Bocchoris). 24. Takelut (Tjglath) I. 22. ^ J^ ^ S hahak (Sabaco). 25. Baedekek's Upper Egypt. NAMES OF KINGS, Taharka. 25. c ra A -'5. Psammctikh I. 26. Nekho26. Psainmctikh IT. 20. Quee n Anieniritis. D iJl_] O v^v_y D Klieshc- T\ahphrahet (Ua- Kambatet Ktariush rish phris. lIoi)hrab). AahmesII. (Ania- (Cambyses) (Dariu.s). Darius. (Xerxes). 2G. .sis). 26. 27. 27. 27. 27. V- ^V -^ Ma r^^^^ I \\ I w k-^ v_y v_y Amenrut Nekht-nebf Alexander I. / I'''"''?; I Ptolmis (Ptolemy I. (Amyrtocus). „ , - u ^ on or. Pus An- c- » x oo 28. (Nectanebus). 30. 32. dau's. 32.1 Soter). 33. .^uo^ e^ o u o ^ r=^ Jii^S. °<«~. I I ' H D D (3 (i; v.^ r\. T=r _Si=6 V_^ Ptolemy II. Philadclphus I. 33. Queen Arsinoe. 33. n _£ 3. NAMES OF KINGS. Ptolemy III. Euerge- Qieen ptolemy IV. Philopa- Ptolemy V. Epl- tes I. 33. TT ?!?! tor I. 33. phanes. 33. II. 33. Ptolemy IX. Euerge- tes II. (Physcon). 33. Seven Ptole- maic prin- cesses of the name of Cleo- patra occur. Ptolemy X. Soter II or Pliilometor II. usually known as La- tl'vrus. 33. Cleopa- tra VI., mistress of C£e- sar and Anto- ny. 33. A D ^ NAMES OF KINGS. Cleopatra VI., with Ctesarion, lier son by Csesar, and nominal co-regent. 33. A The famous Cleopatra and her son Csesarion. L.J O v=_^ A ^ 0' T=T v^ o s ^ Cleopatra and her son CtEsarion, her co-regent. Caius Ca- Claudius, ligtila. (Tibe- Nero. Vespasian. M. This). 34. 31. 3^. Autocrator (abso- lute monarch! and Kisaros fCsesar). Epithets of all the emperors. 34. -^(2 A ^ A Ca-'sar Au- Tiberius, gustnv 34. 34. Domi- Trajan, tian. 34. 34. U ^ o -^ o v^ NAMES OF KINGS. Hadrian. 34. H AAAAAA ^ w Aurelius. Commo- Severus. Antoninus. Geta. Decius. 34. du. as in English. as th in 'thing', but generally pronounced t ots. in Syria and Arabia like the French^ (some- times also like the English j), but i)ro- nounccd o (hard) in Egypt. a peculiar guttural //, pronounced with em- phasis at the back of the palate. like ch in the Scotch word 'loch', or the harsh Swiss German ch. as in English. as th in 'the', but generally pronounced cl or 2. like the French or German r. \ as in Englis emphasised s. l)oth emphasised by pressing the tongue firmly against the palate. an emjdiatic z, now pronounced like No. 11 or No. 15. a strong and very peculiar guttural. a guttural resembling a strong French or German i*. as in English. emphasised guttural k\ reidacod by the na- tives of Lower Egypt, and particularly by the Cairenes, by a kind of hiatus or repression of the voice. in English. 1. From Cairo to Assiut. Comp. Maps, pp. 2, 8. a. By Railway. 229 M. The railway-station, BiUdk ed-Dakrftr, which is also the start- ing-point of the direct line to Teh el-Barud and Alexandria, is situated on the W. bank of the Nile, 3 31. from Cairo (connection with main railway-station in prospect). Carriage from the hotel to the station 4 fr. ; for heavy luggage a second carriage is necessary, as the baggage-waggons cannot be implicitly relied on. Passengers should be at the station early, as the processes of ticket-taking and luggage-weighing are by no means expeditious. The first-class carriages are, of course, the most comfortable from a European point of view, and first-class passengers are allowed to take with them in their compartment all their smaller articles of baggage and even trunks. The natives almost invariably travel second-class, and those who wish to make a nearer acquaintance with the country and the people should, perhaps, select a second-class compartment, in spite of its offering less resistance to the incursion of the yeliow desert sand (comp. Baedeker^s Lmoer Egypt, p. 371). — Fares to Assiut: 1st class 171.8 piastres (Turkish), 2nd class 111..'!) pias., 3rd class 57'/2 pias. Payment at the station may be avoided by previously buying vouchers at the agencies of either Cook or Gaze, and exchanging them at the railway-station through the dragoman of the agency. The trains start (1891) at 8.30 a.m., 3 p.m. (for Wastah and intermediate stations), and 7 p.m. (Tues. & Frid. only). Those who wish to go on at once by steamboat from Assiut should take the morn- ing train on the preceding day (see Introduction, p. xvi; and comp. Cook's or Gaze's Tourists' Programme). The journey to Assiut takes nominally lOhrs., but the trains are generally late. A time-table showing the names of stations in French and Arabic and giving distances in English miles is published by Penasson of Alexandria and may be bought at the ticket-offices. Trav- ellers should provide themselves with a supply of meat, bread, and wine, as no stoppage is made for dinner; eggs, bread, water (glass necessary) are offered for sale at the stations. Seats should at first be taken on \\i.& right side for the sake of the view of the Pyramids -, from Minyeh onwards the left side is preferable, for the views of the Nile valley and Benihasan. — The railway follows the course of the Nile pretty closely, and a sufficient idea of the views from the carriage-windows may be obtained from the account of the dhahabiyeh voyage below. The following is a list of the rail- way-stations, nearly all of which are also steamer-stations. For descrip- tions, ."iee the text. Stations: Gtzeh, Haicamdiyeh; 14 M. (1/2 br. from Cairo) Bedvashen (p. 2); 51 M. (P/4 hr. from Bedrashen) El-Wastah (p. 4; halt of 6 min.), the junction of the line to the Fayum (R. 2, p. 34); Ashment (to the right, in the distance, the pyramid of El-LahUn]; Bils/i (p. 5); 7151. Benisuef (p. 6; rail. stat. 3/^ M. from the Nile); 841/2 M. Bibeh (p. G), the junction of a branch-line used for the transportation of suttar-cane ; 93 M. Feshii (p. 6); 106 31. MaghAghah (p. 6); 117 31. Aha Girgi-h (p 6) ; Maidych, with a handsome bridge over a canal (lef() ; 128 31. Kolosaneh (p. 7) ; 181 31. Samaim (p. 7); 148 31. Minyeh (p. 9); Abu Kerkds ; '173 M. liodah (p. 18); 178 31. Melawi el-'At-ish (p. 22); Di'r Mauds (to the left or E., Tanuf, with the mound marking the site of Tanis Superior, not to be confused with Tanis in the Delta); 190 31. DcrHl esh-Sherif (p. 28); Beni-Korrah; 210 M. Monfalut (p. 29); Beni-Hiisen; 229 31. Assiut (p. 31). b. By the Nile. 252 31. Arrangements, see Introduction, p. xiii. As soon as a favourable wind springs up (^wliicli, however, has sometimes to be waited for for hours), the dhahabiyeh is cast off and Bakdekeu's Upper Egypt. 1 2 Route 1. MEDUM. From Cairo poled out into the middle of the cliaimel. The sailors accompany the hoisting of the lateen sail ■with a lusty chorus, and if one of the brisk 'Etesia' blows, which Uerodotus mentions as driving boats up the Nile, the long pointed craft flies quickly along, passing in rapid succession the Khedive's palace and the barracks of Kasr en-Nil, Kasr el- Ain, the island of Rodah with its palaces (on the E. bank), and the cha- teaux of Gezireh and Gizeh (W. bank). Old Cairo lies on the E. bank, and beyond it rise the Mokattam Mts., with the citadel and Stabl 'Aiitar, a ruined Arab fort on the S. end of one of their spurs; on the W. is the group of pyramids at Gizeh. To the left (E. bank) farther on, are the quarries and hamlets of Turah and Ma'sarah (see Baedeker s Lower Egypt^ p. 403). Opposite, on the W. bank, rise the pyramids of Abusir, Sakkarah, and Dahshur. Near the bank, to the left, amidst a flue grove of palms, is a Coptic convent, and adjacent is a gun-factory, begun by Isma'il Pasha, but never finished. The steamer remains for some hours at Bedrashen (rail, stat., p. 1), where asses are kept ready for a visit to Memphis, Sakkarah, etc. (comp. Baedeker s Lower Egypt, R. 4). Opposite, on the right bank of the Nile, lies Helwan (ibid, p. 404), frequented as a water- ing-place. — On the bank at Kafr el-'Ayat (W. bank; rail, stat.), where the steamer lays to for the night, are some ancient construc- tions which may have belonged to the Canal of Menes. The un- important pyramids of Lisht lie to the right, while the singularly shaped pyramid of McdClm (the so-called 'False Pyramid') becomes more and more prominent. Eikkah, on the W. bank, is the starting-point of the excursion to the Pyramid and Mastabas o/'3/«ium (asses with poor saddles may be procured at the village ; 2 fr. and bakshish). The Pyramid and Mastabas of JlfiuuM, the oldest monuments in the world, deserve a visit, which may be accomplished from Rikkah in abont C hrs. (railway travellers may perform it in about the same lime from the el-Wastah station; comp. p. 1). Crossing the railway, we proceed on don- key-back in abont l'/4 hr. to the pyramid, which rises close to the colti- vated country cm the soil of the desert, IV2 M. to the N. of the village of MedHin. This appears to be the oldest of the local names handed down to us, as it is met with on the mastabas of the early period of Snefru. The Pyramid of Mediim is so different from all the other structures of the kind that it is called by the Arabs ^El-IIaram el- Kadddb\ or '■the faUe pyram\d\ From a large heap of rnbbisli wliich covers its base, the smooth and steep upper part of the structure rises in three different stages at an angle of 74o 10', and is still preserved to a height of 122 ft. The first section is 09 ft., and the second 20'/'j ft., while the third, now almost entirely destroyed, was once 32 ft. in height. The outer walls con- sist of admirably jointed and polished blocks of Mokattam stone. The holes in one of the surfaces were made by Lepsius and Erbkam when they examined the pyramid, the constr>icti(m of which afforded them an admirable clue to the principle upon which the others were built (Vol. I., p. 300j. The Pyramid of Medum was never completed; the heaj) of debris at its base consists of the material which once filled the angles of the different sections, so as to give the pyramid a smooth surface. The pyra- mid was pillaged as early .is in the time of the 20th Dynasty. If was opened in ISHl by Maspero. who found a long corridor and a chamber without sarcophagus. Perhaps in this pyramid Snefru, the first king of the fi.lfiepFrt red GeographJnstit.ofWa^er&Dpbrs.Leipiif to Assklt. MEBtTM. 1. Route. 3 4th Dyn., was buried, as in the neighbouring tombs persons related to him are interred. The Mastabas of Uediim, which were opened by Mariette, lie to the N. of the pyramid. These were the tombs of the relations of Snefru (4th Dyn.), and in many respects resemble the mausolea of Sakkarah which bear the same name. The facades of the most important of them are partly uncovered. The street of tombs, which is now accessible, pre- sents the appearance of a hill-side covered with masonry, incrusted with stucco, and provided with ante-chambers. The mouth of each tomb is towards the E. ; the leaning external walls are generally of Nile bricks, richly embellished with the linear patterns which afterwards formed the favourite decorations of the sides of the sarcophagi (which were imi- tations of the tomb-facades). The vestibule is in most cases compara- tively large, but the inner corridors are narrow, slope downwards, and are covered with representations in a remarkably simple and antiquated style. The archaic character of the scenes and of the hieroglyphics proves the great antiquity of these monuments. The influence of the hieratic canon is already traceable here, but it does not appear to have hampered the efforts of the artists as much as it did at a later age. The admirably preserved colours are also less conventional than those seen in later monuments. The first open tomb which we reach from the S., was that of Prince (Erpa Ha) Neferm&t^ who lived in the reign of King (J Teta. (There were 3 kings of this name, in the 1st, 3rd, and 6th Dynasty). On the left wall of the corridor leading to the tomb-chamber,' we see the deceased in a sitting posture, and on the right wall he is represented standing, with his wife behind him. Adjacent are men and women presenting offerings, as in the ma.stabas of Ti and Ptahhotep. The flesh-tint of the men is red, and that of the women pale yellow, and this circumstance, especi- ally in a monument of this early period, is important as tending to prove the Asiatic origin of the Egyptian nobles. The features of the persons represented are of the Caucasian, and not of the Ethiopian type. Among the villages belonging to Nefermat, which offered gifts, there appears on the left the name of the district of ^\ g "> ■=*=' ^®. '■Metun of the cattle'. Metun is the oldest form of the name Medum. From the neck of the ox, which represents the victim, flows a black stream of blood. On the right side we find among others a district named that 'of the white sow', which proves that pigs were reared in Egypt as early as the time of Snefru. The pig in this group is very true to nature ^r:^ rh^' ^^ ^^^ name of the district Hat en Sek, or 'place of the ploughing', the most ancient form of the plough is used as a determinative symbol. The advanced condition of industrial pur- suits, showing that the Egyptians already practised the art in which, according to Pliny, they afterwards excelled, is proved by the character of the dress worn by the women represented on the right side of the first passage, consisting of black and white cotton stuff, with pleasing patterns on the borders. He tells us that they were not in the habit of painting the materials for their dress, but of dipping them in certain fluids. They were coloured with boiling dyes, and came out impressed with a pattern. Although the boilers contained one colour only, it is said to have imparted several different tints to the stuffs dyed in them. — In order to impart a diirable colour to the larger figures represented here, an entirely unique process was employed. The outlines were en- graved on the stone, while the surfaces enclosed by them were divided into deeply incised squares, which were filled with stucco of different colours, the flesh-tint of the men being red, that of the women yellow, and the colour of the robes being white, etc. 1* 4 Route I. ATFIH. From Cairo A little farther to the N. is the tomb of Aiet, the wife of Nefermat. On the architrave over the doorway we see the husband of the deceased engaged in snaring birds, while a servant presents the spoil to the mis- tress of the house, whose complexion is of a brilliant yellow. On the outside wall, to the left, we observe the cattle of the deceased browsing on reeds. On the right stands Ncfermat, who, as the inscription informs us, 'caused this monument to be erected to his gods in indestructible character3\ Among the domestic animals arc several cattle of very bright colours. We also notice a gazelle held by the horns by a butcher, who is cutting otV its head. Offerings of wine were also made at this early period. In the passage leading to the Serdab is a group of labour- ers busily at work. The hunting-scenes are curious, and, notwithstanding their simplicity, remarkably true to nature. Among them is a greyhound seizing a gazelle by the leg, and anotlicr carrying a long-eared hare. A few paces to the N.E. is another ma.sjaba built of well-hewn blocks of limestone. The hieroglyphics and low reliefs, resembling those in the tomb of Ti at Saklcarah, are admirably executed. The deceased in- terred liere was named A'Aerei, and his wife Mara. Traversing the vesti- bule and a narrow passage, we reach a tomb-chapel with a sacrilicial table; in the passage, on the right, is a handsome male figure with a lasso, and on the left are stone-masons, engaged in making sarcophagi. On the loft, in the innermost niche of this tomb, we perceive the de- ceased, and on the right, his wife. We next come to a ruined mastaba, and to another tomb, half excavated, which was constructed for Raho- iep, a Sim of Snefru, one of tlie highest civil and military dignitaries of the kingdom, and his wife ^efert, a relation of the royal family. The statues of this married couple, who died young, or at least arc so repre- sented, wliich arc now among the principal treasures of the museum of Gi/.eh, were found here. Farther to the W. are several other tombs, now covered up. On tlie right bank, opposite llikkah and about II/2 M. from the river, lies the hamlet of Atfih, with some nioiiiids of eartli and debris representing the Ancient Aphroditopolis, the territory of wliich, according to Strabo, adjoined that of Acanthus (Dahslinr), while its capital lay on tlie Arabian bank of the Nile. A town of Aphrodite must also be one of Ilatlior, the Egyptian goddess of love, to whom the white cow, whicli Strabo says was Avorshipped here, was sacred ; it wag the capital of Matennu, the 2'2n(l nomo of Upper Egypt, Its hieroglyphii'. name was Tep ahe, head of the cow. In the Chrislian period (ca. 310 A.D.J Aphnidilopulis gained some cele- brity from -St. Anihoti;/ , who lixed his hei'mitago in the mountains to the E. of the town, beside a well and a grouj) of palms. So many pil- grims of every class, age, and sex sought out the holy man. that a regular posting route, with relays scaMins of the Sdlar \ear. Thus a festival which is celebrated this year in summer will take place 15 years hence in winter. tu Assitit. SPEOS ARTEMIDOS. 1. Route. 11 The 'three weeks' steamer halts here 3-4 hrs., while the 'tour weeks' steamer remains overnight and leaves the entire forenoon for a visit to Speos Artemidos and Benihasan. The excursion begins at Speos Artemi- dos, which lies (o the S. (i/u br. on donkey-back), whence we proceed towards the JT. to (V2 tr.) the foot of the tombs of Benihasan. We then walk to (10 min.) the S. graves and descend to Nos. 2 (Khnum-hotep) and 1 (Ameni-Amenemha) of the N. tombs, where the asses are in waiting to take us back to the steamer (3/4 hr.). Travellers ascending the river in a dhahabiyeh should land at Benihasan, ride to Speos Artemidos, and send the dhahabiyeh on to meet them near the village of Benihasan el-Almiar. Those descending the stream save a little time by landing at a point somewhat nearer the tombs of Benihasan, almost opposite Benihasan el- Kadim (p. 12j. Speos Artemidos ('grotto of Artemis'), known to the Arabs as Sum 'Antitr ('stable of Antar' ; comp. p. 33), is reached from the steamboat-landing, where asses are in waiting, in 1/2 hr. The route crosses fields and sand, finally ascending considerably. On the way carefully rolled cat -mummies are offered for sale, which have retained the unmistakeable odour of cats for thousands of years. The cat was sacred to the goddess Pasht ( ), whom the Greeks identified with Artemis. The Temple of this goddess, hewn in the rock, consists of a vestibule and of an inner chamber connected with the vestibule by a corridor. Above the door of the vestibule is a long inscription of the time of the 18th Dynasty, which celebrates the goddess Pasht and also speaks, under the name of Amu, of the Hyksos in Avaris who from ignorance of the god Ra destroyed the ancient temples. The temple itself was founded by Tutmes III. and renewed by Seti I. Of the 8 pillars which supported the vestibule all have been destroyed except two in the front row, which bear inscriptions and royal cartouches on their W. and E. sides only. On the W. side of the recumbent pillar to the right Champollion saw the name of Tutmes III. ( 1 " " " '1 m J . All the other cartouches arc those of Seti I., who is described as the favourite of the goddess Fasht, the mistress of \\ f^^^^ Matennu or the dweller in the mountain I *^^r5Q Ant. On the rear-waU of the vestibule are some interesting representations. To the left is Pasht in the guise of a mighty sorceress, stretching out her left hand to king Seti I., behind whom, sitting in an attitude of benediction, is the god Ammon-Ra. To the extreme left is the small figure of the god Thoth, lord of Hermopolis. Appropriate inscriptions are also furnished. To the right, in three rows, are the deities of Speos Artemidos (12 figures), beginning with Mentu and Turn, in front of whom is Thoth, who conveys to the local gods the command of Ammon-Ra that Seti I. shall be raised to the throne of Horus. lu 12 Koule 1. BENIIIASAN. From Cairo the doorway to the next chamber are a long iiiscriptiou and a re- presentation of the king oflVriiig a (;ynocephulus. In the rear-wall is a niche (naos) with the cartouche of Set! I. ^ ■^ ^ -^ To the W. of the Specs Artcmidos is a ^ „ I .' „ ', second grotto (perliaps merely a cat's tomb), on the outside of which are the intrresting cartouches of Alexander JL, son of Itoxana, and six scenes rt'prescnting the king in the company of the gods. The dragomans now luirry on to (^/^ hr.) IJenihasaii, where we ascend to the S. tombs. These, however, have been almost entirely ~ J destroyed, and the only one of any interest ■^ is No. 7, the tomb of )f Kheti, whicli contains hunting-scenes and line clustered columns. Passing on we soon reach (8 min.^ the highly interesting N. tombs of Arneni (No. 1) and Khnum-hotep (No. ~); conip. pp. 14-18. The necropolis of Benihasan is one of the most interesting in all Egypt, not only on account of the remarkable architectural features of the I'ith Dyn. seen here, but also for the nianifold re- presentations of scenes from the domestic life of the Egyptians at that early era. The jiiurney rriuu the Nile to the tombs takes from ^ji br. to IV4 br. according to the height of the water and the landing-place selected. A.ssc.s, with good saddles, l-l'/'^ fr. Candles, and if possible magnesium wire, should be taken to light the tombs. The route leads towards the bare limestone hills, at first through groves of palms and then across sand. The ancient licitihasan +, Benihasan el-Kailim ('the old"), now deserted, lies to the right; the modern village is to the 8. of the usual landing-place. On reaching the limestone hills we see the remains of a dilapidated j)ath, supported by masonry, and ascend over debris to the horizontal hill-path, to the W. of which stretch the tombs. 15efore the traveller enters the tombs to inspect the represen- tations within, he should examine the columns at the entrance. At first sight everyone will set these columns down as uninlstakeable examples of the Doric order; but the indisputable testimony of the inscriptions informs us tliat they date, not from the Ptolemaic period, but from the invasion of the Ilyksos, in the 12th Dyn., be- tweiii 15.C'. '2000 and !'..('. 3000. C'hampollion named them I'roto-Doric or Pre-Doric Columns. Since him many authorities, with these columns as tlieir starting- point, have tried to establish the kinship of the early Greek order with the architecture of Egypt and to prove that the former was derived from the latter. These views, however, aroused keen op- + The place was deserted 30 or 40 years before the' visit of the French Kxpedition, because the inhabitants wished a wider space for cultivation near their village, which tliey accordingly rebuilt farther to the S. The story that the villagers were expelled by Ibrahim I'af-ha and e.xterminated for robbery is a fabrication, although it is true that many of them were executed for this crime. to Assiiit. BENIHASAN. 1. Route. 13 position, partly because they overshot the mark, and partly because they igiiorantly confounded forms peculiar to these rook-tombs with those represented in the entirely independent field of architecture above ground. The connoisseurs and^students of Greek art, blinded by their love for the object of their^^study, refused to allow that a single feature of Hellenic architecture had arisen anywhere but on Section of Tomb and Columns of Benihasan. Grecian soil, and stigmatised Egyptian architecture as 'barbaric' ■without taking the trouble to investigate its claims. Finally, how- ever, Lepsius, equally at home in both fields, stepped into the fray and his second masterly essay may be taken as the last word on the subject. lie shows that the development culminating in the poly- gonal fluted columns of Benihasan can be traced step by step in the cavern-structures of the Egyptians of the ancient kingdom, and he also shows that, though the Doric Column of the Greeks is known to us only in its fully developed form, some inexplicable features in the Doric order are not only justified, but even necessary 14 Route 1. RENIHASAN. From Cairo in its Egyptian counterpart 7. The columns of Benihasan consist, like the Doric column, of a basis, an octagonal or sixteen-sided shaft with IG or 20 flutes, a capital, and an abacus. The echinus or chyniatiuni is, however, wanting. While the swelling or entasis on some Doric columns, and also the aniiuli or rings at the top of the shaft, liave hitherto met with no sufficient explanation, the same features appear as natural and necessary parts of the so-called 'plant column' of Egypt. The architects of the Nile aimed consciously at a rcproiluction of the stem of a plant, and as the capitals repre- sented a bunch of buds it was natural that the cords which fastened them should not be absent. Their number is five ; and the 3 or 5 annuli at the top of a Doric column, erroneously explained as in- cisions made for the ropes used in hoisting it to its place, are simply an inheritance from the Egyptian column. The idea of the annuli, as of the entire Doric column, is of Egyptian origin, thougb the perfect Greek column, with the beautiful transition-member formed by the echinus, is far from a mere imitation. 'The Greek column has become an entirely new form, animated by a new prin- ciple proper to itself, which has thoroughly mastered the hetero- geneous elements from without and blended them in a new unity.' In farther emphasis of the importance of these columns in the hi- story of art, we may remind the reader that the earliest Doric col- umns known to us date from about the time that the Psamtlkidae (p. xxix ) were not only allowing the Greeks to enter the valley of the Nile but were inviting them to settle there, and that the col- umns of Benihasan are 1500 years older tlian this. The columns of Benihasan are indeed nothing more than the pillars in the Temple of the Sphinx and the Mastaba (^Baedeker's Lower Egypt, pp. 366, 379) provided with flutes and chamfered edges. The two tombs of chief interest, the farthest to the N., are easily recognised by the beautiful polygonal columns at their entrances. The donkey-drivers make directly for tlicm, paying no attention to the others. The numbering begins at the N. end. Tomb 1. The exterior of the pronaos or vestibule is distin- guished by two fine octagonal columns, bearing a flat vault hewn out of the rock. Four sixteen-edged columns, with narrow fltiting, stand in the interior of the tomb-chamber and appear to bear the three beautifully painted anhes of the ceiling, which are hewn in the form of shallow barrel vaulting. The side-columns touch the right and left walls of the nearly square chamber, in the rear of which opens a recess containing the statues (much dilapidated) of the deceased and his two wives. The usual long shaft leading to the bottom of the tomb and the chamber for the corpse at the end of it are also present. Tliis is the tomb of Amenemhn or /Imeni, + Some flelails on this matter will he found in tbe section devoteil to Egyjitian art in (he first vuliiiiie of tbis Hamlliook (p. 160). to Assiut. BENIHASAN. 1. Route. 15 the son of tlie Lady Hannu, who was one of the chief dignitaries of the kingdom, bore the title of an erpa ha or prince, governed the nome of Mah in time of peace, and commanded a division of the army in war. To the left and right of the entrance he is depict- ed on a throne with lions' feet, holding his commander's baton in his hand. Inside tlie door are two well-preserved inscriptions, cut in the stone. That to the right (S.J informs us that Amenemha departed this life in the 43rd year of Usertesen I., corresponding to the 25th year of the governorship of Ameni. He undertook all his wars 'sailing up-stream': — i.e. he campaigned only against tlie dwellers of the S., the 'miserable Kushites', as they are called in the inscription. In those days the arms of the Pharaohs had not yet been carried towards the E. The Sinai peninsula, with its mines, is the only district in this direction which excited the Egyp- tion lust of conquest. From his southern campaigns Amenemha brought home much gold and other booty. The inscription to the left (N.) also mentions a victorious campaign towards the S., but is of special interest for the light it throws on the truly human feelings of this bye-gone time. Amenemha describes his occupa- tions in time of peace as follows (beginning at the fourth line from below) : 'I cultivated the entire nome of Mah with many work- people. I troubled no child and oppressed no widow, neither did I keep a fisherman from his fishing or a herdsman from his herd. There was no head of a village whose people I had taken away for compulsory labour, and there was no one unhappy in my days or hungry in my times. When, liowever, a famine arose, I tilled all the fields in the nome of Mah, from its S. to its N. boundary, and gave nourishment and life to its inhabitants. So there was no one in the nome who died of hunger. To the widow I allowed as much as to the wife of a man, and in all that I did I never preferred the great man to the small one. When the Nile rose again and every- thing flourished — fields, trees, and all else — ■ I cut off nothing from the fields'. The paintings in the interior of the tomb-chamber proper are unfortunately very much faded, and they have also been con- siderably injured, especially in recent years. Some figures of war- riors which still remain, armed with club and axe or club and lance, have a foreign appearance, as their skin is of a lighter colour than that of the Egyptians, and their hair and beards are red. Tomb No. 2 is that of Khnumhotep , the son of Nehera. It owes its origin to a member of a family of high rank, in which the office of governor of Mah seems to have been hereditary for several ge- nerations. Amenemha I., Usertesen I., and Amenemha II., the first kings of the 12th Dyn., showered titles and dignities with a free hand on this family, which in return clung to tlie royal line with peculiar loyalty and affection. By a wonderful piece of good fortune we are able to reproduce the entire family-tree of this family, in IG Route 1. RENIHASAN. From Cairo whi<;h the names of women fill a very important role. Amenemhall. Ra-nub-kau q f:^^ | (| || ( createil Khnumhotep governor of the E. nomes, and as the heir of his maternal grandfather made him priest of Horus and Pasht in the town of MenatKhufu (Minyeh). The portico or vestibule of tliis tomb deserves particular atten- tion , as it not only possesses proto-Doric columns resembling those of Tomb 1, but also shows some architectural forms, which seem intended to reproduce the beams and rafters of buildings above ground. The cornice projects strongly above the architrave and is supported by fine laths hewn, like all the rest of the structure, out of the living rock. The resemblance of these laths to the mu- tules of the Doric order is not especially striking in itself, but taken in conjunction with other points of similarity is, perhaps, worthy of mention. — The interior of Khiiumhotep's tomb is richly adorned with paintings. Most of the representations were painted on a thin layer of stucco, with which the limestone walls were coated. At the foot, however, is a long inscription cut in the rock, in lines of a greenish colour, 2'/2 ft- ''igli- [I" 1890 the royal names were cut out of the rock by some vandal hand aTid offered for sale.] From this inscription we receive information about the family of Kiinumhotep, wlio owed the greater part of his dignities to liis maternal grand- fatlier, about his relations with Amcnemha II., who, at the inter- cession of his mother, made him a royal governor, and about the benefits he had conferred on liis government and its people and the honour he had done to the gods of his nome and the manes of his forefathers. The paiiitings have unfortunately suffered so much in the last 30 or 40 years, that the subjects of some of them are now almost indistinguishable. Most of them, however, were copied by Lepsius, Rosellini, Wilkinson, and others, wliile they were still in fair pre- servation; and they have furnished most important contributions to our knowledge of the private life of the ancient Egyptians. In the uppermost row of paintings, above the door, was represented the festival of the opening of the tomb of Khnumhotep. 'The heaven opens', says tlio inscription, 'as the god (i.e. tlie deceased trans- formed into Osiris) steps forth'. To the right, lower down, we see the colonnades of Khnumhotep's dwelling, with servants measuring and registering his treasures and (farther on) bringing his corn into the barns. Two of the lower rows show the operations of ploughing, harvesting, and threshing. Still lower down is a Nile-boat, bear- ing the mummy of tlie deceased, as the inscription informs us, to Abydos (the grave of Osiris), while the high-priest imparts his blesKiTig. Helow is a representation of the vintage and of the gather- ing of fruit and vegetables. The cattle in the water and the fishing scene (at the foot) vividly recall the similar scenes in the Mastaba of Ti. To the left of the door, high up, are seen the processes of preparing clay for pottery .md sawing wood; in the second row to Assiut. BENIHASAN. 7. Route. 17 Khnumhotep appears in a litter, inspecting his potters and carpen- ters. Some of the latter are felling palm-trees and others are build- ing a hoat for the journey to Abydos (see below). The most inter- esting of the scenes of artizan life in the lower rows are the representations of women baking and weaving, under tlie supervision of eunuchs. — The entire Rear Wall is occupied by a tastefully arranged representation of the water-sports in which the deceased took delight. A forest of papyrus reeds grows by the water-side, thickly peopled by all kinds of furred and feathered game. To the right and left Khnumhotep is depicted in his boat, accompanied in one instance by his wife Khuti, who is painted a lighter colour. Here he transfixes large river-fish, there he holds the birds he has brought down by his darts. Above are birds caught in a net. In the river swim characteristically drawn fish, and crocodiles and hippo- potami are also seen. A man who has fallen into the water is being liauled out again. The dominant idea of the chase is farther carried out in the representations of a hawk seizing a gaily-plumaged bird and an ibis capturing a butterfly. The N. Wall (to the left on entering) is the most important of all, as upon it is the celebrated picture of a Semitic race bringing cosmetics (mcstem) and other presents to Khnumhotep. In the lowest row, to the right, are seen the secretaries of Khnumhotep, receiving the report of the steward of the cattle, who is followed by the herds and shepherds. Just above this is Khnumhotep himself, represented on a scale three times as large as the other figures and accompanied by three dogs and a man with sandals, bearing a staff. In the 4th row from below, on a level with the head and shoulders of this huge figure, is represented a curious procession. Neferhotep, the secretary, and another Egyptian lead towards the governor a number of foreign people in gay-coloured garments, whose sharply cut features, hooked noses, and pointed beards unmistakeably pro- claim tlieir Semitic nationality. This Asiatic visit seems to have been one of the signal events in the life of the nomarch. Neferhotep hands his master a document from which we learn that the strangers knocked at the door of Egypt in the 9th year of king Usertesen II. Prince Absha, the leader of the foreigners, leads a gazelle and bows to the ground. The next Asiatic leads an antelope. Four armed men march in front of the harem, which consists of four women aTid three children. Two of these ride upon an ass, which also bears imple- ments for weaving. The women wear brightly coloured raiment of a curious cut. The clothes and loin-cloths of the men are also brilliantly coloured. A heavily-laden ass is followed by a lute- player and a warrior armed with club, bow, and quiver. The in- scription, beginning 'above the figure of the secretary Neferhotep, is as follows : 'Arrival of those bringing the eye-salve mestem (kohl or antimony). We {i.e. Neferhotep) introduces 87 Amus". TheAmus were a Semitic race of Asiatic origin in the N.E. of Egypt. We have Baedf.kkr''3 Upper Egypt. 2 18 Route). BENITTASAN. From Pahn here, as it wore, the advance giianl of the invasion of the Hyksos, towards the end of the i'lth Dynasty. Tlie Hyksos, named 'Amu' in an inscription in tlie ncishbonring Speos Artemidos ( p. 11 ). con- sisted of isolated tribes, who pnrchased permission to enter Egypt by tribute, crossed its boundaries, and finally penetrated to the in- terior. The chief Abslia here bows before the Egyptian; his suc- cessors carried things witli a high hand and bent the p]gyptians under their yoke. — The Hock of ostriches behind the last Amu belongs to the series of pictures on the left side of the wall, re- presenting Khnumhotep, accompanied by iiis dogs, slaying vcild beasts with bow and arrows. Below is a flock of geese and a fowl- ing-scene. In the second row from the foot are bulls ligliting and scenes of cattle-tending. The S. Wall ( to the right) is occupied by processions of servants bringing gifts for the dead, a frequent subject in these representa- tions, and the offering of animals in sai^riflce. Before one altar is the figure of Khnumhotep, before another his wife Khuti, daiighter of I'ent. The traveller will find many of the above scenes now defaced beyond recognition, but he should not let this deter him from walk- ing a little farther to the S. and entering some of the other tombs. That of KUeti, one of the nearest (No. 7), easily recognised by the three pairs of columns supporting the roof, contains interesting, though half-obliterated representations of thi^ innumerable gymnastic and fencing exercises and games of the ancient Egyptians. (Jirls are seen throwing the ball from one to another, and men ponder carefully over a game of draughts. I'ho lluntiny Scenes are of linguistii: value, as the names of the different animals are written above tiiem. Among these was a stag, now totally effaced. Mechan- ics are ilepicted at work here and elsewhere. — Travellers who see the tombs of the new kingdom at Thebes, after having visited the graves of Benihasan, will be astonished at the vastness of the im- pression made upon the life ami sentiment of the Egyptians by the llyk.'^os period. At Benihasan everything recalls the tombs in the Pyramiils, and the subjects of repriisentation are drawn wholly from this earth ; under the New Empire scenes of the future life and re- presentations of the gods are also given. We should also notice that the horse, so common in later times, never appears under the early empire. The forms of the columns, including the beautiful lotus capi- tals ( see liaedeker's Lower EyyjiU p. 164), are of the greatest inter- est. The proto-Doric column is seen here in all stages of development. Tlie plain pillar, the octagonal pillar, the oi'-tagonal and sixteen- sided columns, with and without flutes, all occur at Henihasan side by side and may be looked upon as pra(!tical illustrations of the section upon the ('nrern lliiililing of the Kgyptians in the intro- ductidU to J.nircr f'ifyjd I p. KiO). At R6dah (rail, stat., p. 1), an important place on the W. bank, to Attsiut. ANTINOE. /. Rmite. 1 9 with post and telegraph offices, several mosques, and a large sugar factory, the railway approaches close to the river. The factory is said to contain a stone with a hitherto unpublished Greek inscription. About 1 M. inland (W.) from Rodah, between the Bahr Yusuf and the Nile , lie the ruins of the once famous Ashmunen. The ancient Egyptian name was Khiimmu _ ' ra ®' while the Greeks called it HeviHopoUs, the town of Herntes-Tholh, the god of writing and science, whose chief sanctnary was situated here. Hence the town was also named Pa Tehuti, or town of Thoth. Hermopolis Majjna was the capital of the Hermopolitan nomo of Upper Kgypt. The name Ashmunen is derived, according to (iuatremere (Memoirts Ge'ogvaphiques, 1., pp. 490 et seq.), from the fact that the town embraced two different communities, one on the site of the present ruins, the other, with a harbour, on the Nile. Among the plates of the French Expedition are two views of a line Portico of the Ptolemaic period, with two rows of six columns each (Antiquites IV, PI. 50, 51). The columns were 55 ft. high, and the portico was 124V2 ft. long and 291/2 ft- wide. In Minutoli's 'Journey to the ( Jasis of Jupiter Ammon' (Plate XIV) a view is given of one of the columns, with the cartouche of Philippus Aridfeus, one of the successoi'S of Alexander the Great, who was a native of Ashmunen. The remains of the temple were used in building a saltpetre factory. — At Gebel 7'iina/i, near Hermopolis, is a tablet (much dilapidated) with an inscription of the sun-worshipper Khuen-aten, who lived on the opposite banlv of the river (comp. Tell el-Amarnah, p. 22). Nearly opposite Rodah, on the E. bank, 11 M. from Benihasan, lies the village of Shekh 'Ab(Meh, with the ruins of Antinoe. Hadrian erected a new town in honour of his favourite Antiiions on the site of the Egyptian town of Besa, where the handsome youth is said to have drowned himself, to fulfil the oracle which predicted a heavy loss to the emperor and so to prevent a more serious disaster. The village lies on the hank amid palms of un- usual size and beauty, and to the S. of it is a brook, now dry except after rain, which must formerly have flowed through the town. The remains of public buildings of the Egyptian period are scanty. The French Expedition saw a triumphal arch, a theatre, and two streets flanked with columns, the one running N. and S. and leading to the theatre, the other at right angles leading to the city-gate and the hippodrome. A lofty column bore an inscription of Alexander Severus (A.D. 222). To-day, however, there are few remains either of Greek or Romau times. Among the palms lies a fine Corinthian capital. The marble belonging to the 'very fine gate of the Corinthian order' that Pococke saw here and figured in his book was burned 'to make lime for building the sugar-factory at Rodah. The extensive ruins of the ancient town lie to tlie E. of the village of Shekh 'Abadeh. The streets and ground-plans of the houses are still recognisable. The rooms were small and the walls were made mainly of Nile bricks. There are, however, some un- derground apartments of flat Roman bricks, [reached by stone stair- cases. Near the scanty ruins of one of the largest buildings lies a basin of white marble, which must have had a circumference of at least 23 ft. 20 Route 1. DKR EN-NAKIILKII. From Cairo Those who are interested in Christian antiquities should follow the E. hank from Shekh 'Abadch towards the S.i" In about ^/^ hr., after passing some ruins of a late epoch, we reach the Der Abu Hennis ((Convent of St. John), called also simply ed-Der. In the days of the Mameluke persecutions the Christians are said to have lived here and at Shekh 'Abadeh in comparative security, as the Arabs believed that no Mohammedan could exist here on account of the evil spirits. At present there are more fellahin here than Copts. There is little to be seen at ed-Der. The crypt, in which divine service is held, is said to date from the time of the Em- press Helena. By ascending the hill at the back of the houses, we reach, to the left of the ravine, some cave-like quarries, which were fitted up as Christian chapels and were embellished at an early date with sculptures. The main chamber contains paintings of saints and scenes from the New Testament, but those in one of the side chapels (Kaising of Lazarus, Wedding at Cana , etc.) are better. To judge from tlieir style these interesting pictures are not earlier than the 6tli cent. A.D. Among the Coptic monks who resided here (from the 4th cent, onwards) were Victor and his brother Koluthus, Silvanus, and Macarius ; and the tombs of the last two are still shown. The adjoining quarry was begun by Amenhotep III. About^ 4 hr. beyond Der Abu Ilennis we reach Der en-Nakhleh, the 'convent of the date-palms'. To reach the *Tomb with the re- presentation of the transportation of a Colossus, we cross the dry water-course beyond the houses, ascend the hill on the left side, and near the top reach a path on which, a little to the right, the grave is situated. Guides may be procured for a few paras. Trav- ellers descending the river should visit the tomb from Bersheh, above which towers the rocky Gebel Shekh Sa'id (with a shekh's tomb), in which the tomb in question is hollowed out. The whole district belonged to the nome of Un or Ilermopolis. Tlie represen- tation in this tomb is highly interesting as being the only one that gives us an idea of the processes used by the Egyptians in moving their colossal statues. The Arabs thought it impossible that mere human strenjith could move audi hupc burdens, and hence a legend grew up amnn;; them that the subjcct.s of the Pharaohs were ttiants, who knew how to move masses of rock with their ma;;ical staves. Even the men of the present day, at whose command stand forces of whieh the ancient K^'vptians never even dreamed, arc astounded at their achievements in this direction and feel inclined to solve the prolilem by ascribing to them the use of technical aids, which we have no evidence that they possessed. The principles of the pulley and tlie lever seem to have been unknown to them ; and ob- stacles, which seem to us to demand imperatively the application of steam and machinery, were overcome by enormous multiplication of sheer human power. f The dhahabtych shoulil be .sent on to Bersheh, in order to allow time for a visit to the picture of the transportation of an Kgyptian statue (see above). About 4-5 hrs. are necessary to see comfortably all the points un tliis route. to Assiiit. DEREN-NAKHLEH. 1. Route. 21 The colossal liguie within this tomh represents Kai, son of Tot- hoteiJ, a high-priest, a steward of the mysteries of the word of God, a privy chamberlain (superintendent of the works in the inner pal- ace), and the head of a nome. His paternal grand-mother was a daughter of Usertesen I., the second king of the 12th Dynasty, and he was also connected with the royal family on the mother- side. He was likewise related to the family of Nehera and Khnum- hotep (see p. 15). The successful transportation of the statue figured in his tomb was one of the chief events in the life of Kai. The scene shows us an image, 13 ells in height, securely fastened tu a sled. Small cushions are inserted to prevent the polished stone from being injured by the ropes. To the sled are attached four strong cables, each naanned by 43 workmen (in all 172), the 'young men', as the inscriptions inform us, 'of the W. and E. of the nome'. On the lap of the figure stands a man clapping his hands, probably the leader and time-giver of the song of the workmen, whose task was facilitated by rhythmical movement. To this day in Egypt and elsewhere the same custom is observed wherever the strength of many men is united in some common exertion, as in the sailor's chant in raising the anchor or hoisting sail. A man facing the time-keeper knocks two wudden stamps together, obviously to transmit the proper time to those too far off to hear distinctly the hand-clapping of the leader. On the prow of the sled, behind the rings to which the ropes are fastened, stands a man pouring water on the ground to prevent the heavily loaded sled from taking fire by friction. Water-carriers stand ready to refill the empty pitcher. These are followed by other labourers bearing notched Iieams, for laying under the sledge when necessary. Three bailitl's or stewards, with sticks, are each attended by four men, who seem from their simple costume to be foremen, stone-masons, or extra-hands. At the top are depicted seven well-equipped companies of infantry, marching in stitY military order towards the advancing colossus. The officers bear tridents resembling those in the usual representations of Neptune, which may either have been used as field-standards or for driving the cowardly into action. This highly instructive representation shows, among other points, how unlimited was the authority of the nomarch over the people of his nome and how freely, not to say extravagantly, he could apply human laliour in effecting his ends. One is tempted to pity the corvee labourers and to forget how ends which seem petty or even obnoxious to one generation may have seemed to their ancestors worthy of an unlimited expenditure of time, blood, and wealth. In the time of the pyramid- building 12th Dynasty it was accounted a noble and reputable thing to erect the hugest and most durable monuments. The mass of the people, who seem to have regarded the might of their oppressors in the same light as we regard the workings of destiny, were proud to have had a share in the erection of any specially important monument. Similar considerations are suggested by scenes in the tombs of the pyramids, and the inscription accompanying the atiove-described picture gives us chapter and verse for the accuracy of this view. It runs as follows: 'Transport of the thirteen-ell statue made of stone from Hatnub. Behold, the way by which it was to be transported was of extraordinary difficulty. Truly difficult was also the toil of the people in drawing the mighty mass along it, in dragging (the colossus) in hewn stone. I ordered the bands of young men to march and prepare the way for it, with watchmen, carpenters, and so forth. The most important were among them. The order was issued that men of a strong arm should go forth to fetch it. My heart was full of content, and my fellow-citizens all rejoiced. Tlie scene was extremely beautiful to witness ; the old man leans on the youth, the strong withstood the weak-hearted and timid. They thus became so strong that each one effected as much as a thousand. And behold, this statue 22 Route 1. TKI.L EL-A.MAKNAII. From Cairo (if hewn sdiiie went forth nut (if tlic nmunlnin. uime \iiiutterahly jii-aml to witness than all thini,'S else. Transport-fihijis ('(niippcd with all ni oflcr nothing unusual. Much has heen destroyed and defaced, principally l>y the monks, who tried to sanctify the pagan work and drive the devil from it by marking it with the sign of the cross. Below this tomb is another of the 12th Dynasty, belonging according to the inscriptions to the royal chamberlain Aha- On tlie W. bank, 1 M. from the Nile, is Melawi el-'Arish (rail, stat., p. 1), a small town with 10,000 inhab., whore fowls, eggs, etc., may be proi'ured i-lR-aply (large market on Sun.). In the vi- cinity arc many larjrc palms and also sngar-plantations. P'arther on, on the E. l)aMk, at the foot of the hill of the same name (p. 20), lies Shekh-Sa'id, with tombs of the old empire, including those of priests of Khufu, Userkaf, and Pej)!. We next reach the ruins of et-Tell and the grottoes of Tell el- Amaruah, two very interesting points on the E. bank, at which the 'four weeks' steamer stops for a few hours on its return-journey. The best plan is to disembark at ct-Tell, visit the remains of the olct fully explained epoch of Kgyptian history is illustrated hero by a large number of paintings Jaiid inscripti(ms. In the Historical Introduction to onr lirst vol. an account i.s given of both Amoubotcp 111. and his sou and successor Amenhotep IV. The lirst, a to Ass int. TELL EL-AM ARN AH. I . Route. 23 mighty prince both in war and peace, was a pious worshipper of Auiuion, whose name, indeed, forms part of his own (Anien-holep). Amenhotep IV., on the other hand, turned his back on his father's religion and on the in- creasingly spiritual conception of Ammon (the Hidden One') and the other ancient gods, discarded his name "Peace of Amnion', became exclusively a sun-worshipper, and named himself Khu-en-aten, i.e. "llellection of the Sun's Disc'. It is an interesting but doubtful question whether Amenho- phis IV., in his role of reformer, intended to resuscitate, as 'a patriotic restorer of the old cult', the simple sun-worship from which the religion of the Egyptians had originally taken its rise ; or whether he was moved by the Semitic influences, which are so noticeable all over the country after the expulsion of the Hyksos, to become an adorer of the orb of day and to introduce a religious ceremonial that recalled the practices of the Asiatic courts rather than the more dignified usages of the 'Sublime Porte' of Egypt. Portraits of historical personages often cast a clearer light on their character than piles of written documents, and the numerous re- presentations of Amenhotep IV. encountered in these tombs show that he was a sickly man, a fanatic, and an enthusiast. [The portrait-statue of him in the Louvre suggests similar conclusions.] He also, as the in- scriptions inform us, stood under the influence of his mother, who was not of royal birth and seems to have encouraged her son's tendency to prefer the old popular religion to the elaborately developed creed of the priests. His work was distinctly reactionary and could not long survive him. Almost everywhere we see his successors scratching out his name as a sign of their disapproval and contempt. Where it still stands intact we may conclude that it was overlooked. The fact that the portrait-like reliefs of men in these tombs, as well as the horses and buildings, appear more true to nature than in any other Egyptian monument may be due to the greater liberty of divergence from the hieratic canon allowed in a reign which was so unfavourable to the priestly dogmas. These reliefs excited the special admiration of the Greeks. A Hellene who visited them inscribed his name as admiring the art of the priestly stone-cutters (tsyvtjv v>a'j|j.a(;u)v tujv lepojv XaoTOfxiuvl. Besides the palaces and tombs of Tell el-Amarnah, Khu-en aten also built a large lienben or temple at Thebes, the blocks of which were used for the pylon of King Horus. He also erected a temple in Heliopolis. the remains of which are still extant, and probably another in Memphis. He is himself depicted on a pylon in Soleb (Nubia). Quite recently a new light has fallen on the history of Amenhotep IV. and his predecessor through the discovery of several hiindred tablets with cuneiform inscriptions in the large Temple, or rather Palace, of Tell el- Amarnah i, which narrate the intercourse of the Kings of Bal>ylon with Amenhotep III. and Amenhotep IV. To the former King Dushratta of Mi- tanni gave his daughter Tadukhepa in marriage; and her dowry is stated on one of the tablets. Other tablets contain letters from Palestine and Syrian vassals to the King of Egypt, and diplomatic notes from King Burnaburiash to Amenhotep IV., concluding a treaty of peace and asking for the hand of his daughter. Most of the tablets are now in the Asiatic Museum at Berlin, but many are in the British |Museum and a few at Gizeh. iV. Group. The tombs in each group are marked with red tiumhers, runnitig from N. to S. Most of the tombs are entered from a small fore-court, and the doorways of many are adorned with concave cornices. The door leads into an oblong apartment, communicating with a wide sepulchral chapel, with a small burial- recess in the background. The ornamentation of the ceiling is very varied. Columns with bud-capitals occur frequently, some T .Some authorities believe that these tablets were found in the tomb of Amenhotep IV. (see above). 21 liuute I. TELL EL-AMARNAII. From Cairo of them untlni&hed, and the colouring of the reliefs is sometimes in wonderful preservation. The mummy shafts, in spite of their great deptli, liave all long since been desj)oiIed of their contents. In the very lirst tomb we lind a representation of the king and his family offering a sacrifice to the sun's disc. The disc is encircled with the Uneus-snake and furnislied with several arms, stretching down- wards; the hands are symbolic of energy, liberality, and the creative faculty. Dwarfs (then, as later, a favourite royal plaything), fan- bearers, and bowing courtiers stand below. In front is the provost- martial with his baton. To the left of the first grave, on the hill, is the Tomb of Pentu (No. 2), which is in a very ruinous con- dition. Farther on to the left is that of Rameri (fio. 3), with a finely worked exterior. On the left wall of the second chamber of this tomb is a military scene, which we do not hesitate to describe as the most realistic representation found liitlierto in any Egyptian grave. The lean figure of the Pharaoh, above whom the sun spreads its arms, stands in his war-cliariot and drives the fiery steeds, the intro- duction of which Egypt owes to the Hyksos. Sais (out-runners) witli long staves run in front of the chariot, towards the crowd of people offering sacrifice and bending to the ground in adoration. Standard-bearers and soldiers clear the way for tlie rapidly advan- cing procession, just as the mounted kavasses still do for the carriage of the Khedive. The king appears once more followed by his children, who also drive their own chariots. The procession hastens to- wards the royal palace, which covers the right part of the rear-wall of the chapel and also part of the right wall, affording us a clearer idea of an E^'yptiau palace than any other scene of the kind. It has long been established that neither the royal princes nor even the Pharaohs themselves lived in the temples. On tlie contrary they used to build themselves airy chateaux of light materials, with doors opening on shady galleries and colonnades. Gardens with fountains and water-basins surrounded tlie building, near which were also out-houses, stables, and well-stocked storehouses, in quantity corresponding to the huge number of ,tho dependents of the royal family. The great entrance-door is dignified with double rows of bud columns, and red standards wave from lofty flag-staffs. Above one of the side-doors is a round window siniilarto tiiose which the French call (eil-de-b-40 fr. a day for each person, according to the requirements of his emjiloyers, and for that sum he is bound to provide them with a tent, provisions (wine excepted), and donkeys, or other means of conveyance, and to pay railway fares and all other expenses. A written Cfintract (comp. p. XX), specifying the places to be visited, the points where some stay i,s to be made (on which occasions a reduced charge per day should be stipulated for), and other particulars, should be drawn up before starling. Those who intend to visit Mcdinet el-Fayum .Tnd its immediate environs only, and wlio do not object to rougli (juarters for line or two nights, may dispense with a dragoman and a tent, but should be provided with a moderate 8up]>1y of food. .\n introduction to the mudir will be of great si'rvice in enalding the travi'lliT to jirocurc the necessary horses or donkeys, which the inhabitants arc often unwilling to hire (ciini]). jip. 37, 42). .Since the conijilelion of (he railway this excursion has usually been undertaken from Cairo, but it may also lie ciimbincd with a visit to SakkSrah. It was formerly usual 1o visit the Fayuin in connection with a jfpurney up the Nile, but (his plan entails needirss expense, as the boat and its crew have to be paid for while lying idle for several days. If, Situation. FA YUM. 1'. lloute. 35 however, the traveller prefers this plan, he disembarks at Wastah and sends on his dhahabiyeh to Benisuef. which he afterwards reaches by railway. Railway from Cairo to Wedinet el-Fayum (Ligne de la Haute-Egtjple)., 75 M., in about 4 hrs. The trains are often lute. — A train starts daily at 8.30 a.m. from the Bulak ed-Dakrur station, reaching Wastah tp. 1) at 10.38 a.m. (halt of 20 min. ; change carriages) and Medinet el-Fayum at 12.16 p.m. A second train starts from Biilak ed-Dakrur at 3 p.m., reach- ing Wastah at 5.29, where the train leaving'Assiut at 8.30 a.m. arrives at 4,25 p.m. From Wastah the Fayiim train proceeds at 5.45 p.m., reaching Medineh at 7 p.m. — From Medinet el-Fayum the line goes on to Senhflr, but for a visit to the Birket el-Kurun hor.ses must be brought from Me- dineh (comp. p. 42). — A train leaves Medinet-el-Fayum daily at 9 a.m., reaching Wastah at 10.15 a.m. and Bulak ed-Dakriir at 1.15 a.m. Situation and History of the FATioM. In the great plateau of the Libyan Desert, which rises 300-400 ft. above the sea-level, is situated the province of the FatOji (from the ancient Egyptian 'Phiom', i.e. marsh or lake district), the first of the oases (p. 343}, which is usually considered to belong to the valley of the Nile, and is justly celebrated for its extra- ordinary fertility (p. 36). This tract is in the form of an oval basin, 840 sq. M. in area, and supports a population of 2C)0,000 souls ; it is enclosed by the Libyan hills, which are here of moderate height, and lies about three-fifths of a degree to the S. of Cairo. It enjoys a remarkably fine climate, and has but rarely been visited by the plague. This 'land of roses'' is still one of the most beautiful parts of Egypt, and more than any other part of the Nile valley deserves the well known epithet of 'the gift of the Nile', bestowed on Egypt by Herodotus, as it is entirely indebted for its fertility to the waters of the Nile with which itis artificially irrigated. The Bahr I'tlsuf (p. 28), a channel 207 M. in length, which is more probably a natural branch of the river, artificially adapted, than a canal, diverges from the Nile to the N. of Assiiit, and flows through a narrow opening in the Libyan chain into the Faytim , where it divides into numerous ramifications, abundantly watering the whole district. One of its branches runs towards the N., skirting theE. .slopes of the Libyan hills. At the point where the Bahr Yusuf enters the Fayiim, the district forms a plateau of moderate height, descending towards the W. in three gradations towards the Birket el-Kuriin, a long, narrow lake, extending from S.W. to N.E. On the easternmost and highest part of the oasis the Labyrinth and Lake Moeris (pp. 39, 40) were once situated ; the central part yields the luxuriant crops for which the province is famous ; while the western- most part chiefly consists of sterile desert land. To the W. and N. of the Birket el-Kurun rise precipitous limestone hills, beyond which lies the immense sandy desert of Sahara. The Fayum must have been reclaimed from the desert at a very early period, probably during the early empire, iu the reign of Amenemha in. , as monuments of his period indicate that he was perhaps the first of the Pharaohs who sought to regulate the whole course of the Nile. On the Upper Nile Prof. Lepsius has found Nilometers constructed by that monarch , and in the Fayum , on the site of the Labyrinth, a number of blocks of stone inscribed with his name. The Greeks called him Aniens, or Muevis, and believed that the lake known to them as 'Lake Moeris% which they regarded as a marvel of engineering skill, was named after him. The word meri, however, is the Egyptian for lake or overflow, so that the great basin of the Fayum was simply 'the lake'; and it was from his exertions in c(mnection with the irrigation works that Amenemha obtained the name of Moeris. We learn from several inscriptions, and from a papyrus roll treating of the Fayiim, that the province was known in the time of the Pharaohs as Ta sJict, or the lake-land , and that Lake Moeris was called hun-t, signifying the discharge or posterior lake. On its bank rose the celebrated Laby- rinth, which was probably renewed by the Bubastite monarchs of the 22nd Dynasty. About the same period the town of Crocodilopolis, situat- ed on Lake Moeris, and afterwards called Arsinoii after the wife of Pto- lemy Philadelphus. was so extended and embelli.shed by Osorkon I. that it is called the 'city of Osorkon 1.' in the inscription on the celebrated 3* 36 Route l>. MEDlNi:'!' KL-FA\UM. Fayilm. stele of Piankhi. The wlmle province was at first calli'd the lake-land, then the district of CrocotUlopolis , and lastly the Arsinoitc Nome. The deity most hijilily revered here was the crocodile-headed 8eljek, the rep- tile sacred to whom was carefully tended in Lake McitIs. At the same time the voracious and dan{;erous monster, notwithstandinji the reverence paid to it on account of its connection with the inundation, was also regarded as Typhonic, and the Crocodilopolitan nome was therefore I)assed over in the lists of nomes. — At the period preceding that of the Psamtikides of the 'iOlh Dynasty the Lal>yrinth appears to have been used as a hall for great imiieiial assemblies. At the period of the Ptolemies and the linmans the prod\icts of the Fayiim were much e.xtolled. 'The Arsiiioite Kome\ says Strabo, 'is Ihe most remarkable of all, botli on ac- count of its scenery and its fertility and cultivation. For it alone is planted with large, full-grown, and richly productive olive-trees, and tlie oil is good when carefully prepared; those who are neglectful may in- deed obtain oil in abundance, but it has a bad smiell. In the rest of Kgypt the olive-tree is never seen, except in the gardens of Alexandria, where under favourable circumstances they yield olives, but no oil. Vines, corn, podded plants, and many other products also thrive in this district in no small abundance'. — Strabo's description is still applicable at the present day. The oranges and mandarins, peaches, olives, lig.s, cactus fruit, pomegranates, and grapes grown here are much esteemed, and the beautiful, rich-coloured red roses of the gardens of the Fayum, which were once so lavishly strewn at the banquets of Cleopatra, still thrive here. At the station of Medinet el-Fayum small phials of attar of roses, of inferior quality, arc frequently oO'ered for sale. Isma'il Pasha devoted special attention to this favoured part of his dominions. The fields, which arc watered by means of wheels of peculiar construction, yield rice, sugar, cotton, ila.x, and hemp, besides the usual cereals. The beginning (aa) and V\ (u), are still recognisable. From the traces still ex- isting, the whole structure would appear to have occupied an area of 8800 sq. yds., and the large inner court an area of about 60 acres. The Ancient Labyrinth. According to Brugsch, the Greek name Laby- rinthos, which has liecn difl'erently interpreted, is derived from 'evpa', or 'elpa-rohunr, i. e. the 'Temple uf the mouth of the Lake". The in- scriptions found here by Lepsius prove that it was founded by Amen- emha III. of the 12th Dynasty. Herodotus declares that the Laby- 40 noute ?. LABYRINTH. Fayum. rinth, which was afterwards reckoned as 'one of the wonders of the world', was so vast as to surpass all the buildings of the Greeks taken together and even the Pyramids themselves. For the best description we arc indebteil to Strabo , who visited the Labyrinth in person. He says: 'There is also the Labyrinth here, a work as important as the I'yriimids, adjoining which is "the tomb of the king who biiilt the Laby- rinth. After advancing about 30-40 stadia beyond the first entrance of the canal, there is a table-shaped surface, on which rise a small town and a vast jialace, consisting of as many royal dwellings as there were formerly mimes. There is also an equal number of halls, bordered with columns and adjoining each other, all being in the same row, and fiu-m- ing (me building, like a long wall having the halls in front of it. The entrances to the lialls are opposite the wall. In front of the entrances are long and numemns passages which have winding paths running through them , so that the ingress and egre.ss to each hall is not practicable to a stranger without a guide. It is a marvellous fact that each of the ceilings of the chambers consists of a single stone, and also that the passages are covered in the same way witli single slal)s of extraordinary size, neither wood nor other l)uilding material having been employeil. On ascending the roof, the height of which is incon- siderable, as there is only one story, we ol)serve a stone surface con- sisting of large slabs. Descending again, and looking into the halls, wc may observe the whole series borne by twenty-seven moncdithic columns. The walls also are constructed of stones of similar size. At the end of this structure, which is more than a stadium in length, is the tomb, consist- ing of a square pyramid, each side of which is four plethra (400 ft.) in length, and of equal height. The deceased, who is buried here, is called Ismandes. It is also asserted that so many palaces were built, because it was the custom for all the nomes, represented by their magnates, with their jiriests and victims, to assemble here to offer sacrilicc and gifts to the gods, and to deliberate on the most important concerns. Each nome tlien took possession of the hall destined for it. Sailing about a hundred stadia lieyond this point, we ne.xt reach the town of Arsinoc', etc. This description of Strabo is confirmed by the contents of two papyri, one fif which is in the museum of Gizeh, the other in. private possession (Mr. Hood). The deities of 66 districts are enumerated here, M of whom be- long to Upper Egypt, 20 to Lower Egypt, and 22 to tlie Fayiim. It is very (loiibtful whether wo should consider these buildings of Nile bricks as remains of the ancient Labyrintli, or rather as tombs. Certainly nothing is left that recalls in any way the splen- dour of the old 'wonder of the world'. Except some blocks of lime- stone, nothing remains of the extensive structures once erected licrc\ save tlie pyramid 'at the end of thi; labyrinth'. To the N. (if the pyramid Mr. Flinders I'eliie discovered some mummy coflins with carefully painted heads (now in London). Of still greater value arc the iiorfra'its found at el-I{ubtain water enough for purposes of irrigation. This is accom- plished by natural means, tint at both ends of (he canal there are ivlso lock-gntcs, by means of which the engineers can regulate the influx and efflux of the water.' The lock-gate, which in ancient times ad- milted tin; water conducted from the Nile by llie canal into the lake, Fayfim. EL-LAHUN. 2. Route. 41 was prol>ably situated near tbe mddei-n el-Lahihi (see below), the name (if which is supposed to be derived from the old Egyptian '•Ko'lncn' or 'io- fewi'', i.e. 'the mouth of the lake\ and the site of which was probably once occupied by the town of Ptolemai's. There is a difference of opinion as to the Situation and Form of the Ancient Lake. Linant-Bey, arguing from the considerable difference of level between the two lakes, maintains that the Birket el-Kurun (Lake of the Horns, p. 43) could never have formed part of Lake Mirris, as was formerly supposed, and he assigns to the latter a much smaller area than was attributed to it under the earlier theory. Placing it farther to the S.E., nearer to the Labyrinth and el-Lahiin, he makes its boundary-line run towards the S.S.W. of Medinet el-Fayum to the Birket el-Gliarak, and intersect the desert of Shckh Almicd, where the ancient height of the wa- ter, which far exceeds the level attained in modern times, has left its traces; it. then leads to Kalamshah, turns to the N. to Dcr, and then to the E. and S.E. to Dimis/ikineh, follows the embankment of Pillawdneh, and passi's Hawdrct el-Kebir and the bridge ofel-LMAn (see below). Hence the boundary loiuls by Di'mmo towards the N.E. to Seleh, and thence to the W. to Bihamu (p. 38); then again to the S,, and thus returns to Medinet el- Fayum. — A somewhat fatiguing journey of 2-3 days will enable the trav- eller to complete this circuit of the bed of the lake, which is now dried up. Recently, however, Mr. F.Cope Whitehouse, relying upon the great circumference assigned by Herodotus (II, 149) to the lake, of 3G(J0 stadia (reduced by Linant to 360) or about 335 M. (Pliny says 230 JI.), and upon measurements made by himself on the spot, ascribes a considerably larger area to the lake than Linant, and maintains that it extended on the S.W. to the Wddi Raydn. It is not improbable thot in ancient times nearly the whole of the Fayum could be laid under water, so that even the Birket el-Kunin belon^ied to Lake Moeris, but that the entire system was meant for' the watering of the Fayum alone and not of the Nile valley or the Delta. Considering that the bed of the lake must annually have been raised by the dep,)slt of Nile mud, it follows, that as soon as the raising of the embankments and the removal of the mud were discontinued, the lake must have become unserviceable, especially after the lock-gates at el- Lahun fell to decay, each opening of which, as Diodorus informs us, cost 50 talents [i.e. about ll,250Z.V). The discharge of the superfluous water probably ran through the Bahr Belah Mah, which has already been mentioned (p. 38) , or through the Wadi Nezleh (p. 42), both of which fall into the Birket el-Kui-iin. The ancient conjecture, that the latter discharged part of its water into the Sahara (or, as Herodotus says, the 'Libyan Syrte'), was not an unnatural one. A visit to the Pyramid of el-Lahiin or Illahun is only interesting to those who are desirous of convincing themselves of the truth of Linanfs hypothesis, and to make the circuit of the boundaries of the old bed of the lake (see al)ove). The pyramid, which is built of Nile bricks, may be reached from Hawaret el-Kasab in 4-5, or from the Labyrinth in 3-4 hours. It has been recently been opened by Frascr. The discovery of an ala- baster altar with tlie name of Usertesen II. renders it probable that the pyramid was built by that monarch. A smaller pyramid lies to the N.E. The remains of the ancient embankments, which were tolerably well preserved in the time of the Khalifs, are not without attraction. Those who are interested in hydraulic engineering should also inspect the en- trance of the Bahr Yusuf into the Fayum. About 72 M. to the E. of the pyramid of el-Lahiin, Mr. Flinders Pc- trie discovered a temple in 1889, and close beside it the ruins of the town Ha-Usertesen-hPlep, now called Kahuii. The Litter was founded by User- tesen II (12th Dyn.) for the labourers on his pyramid. Among the articles found here were pottery. Hint and copper implements of the 12th Dyn., numerous papyri of the same period, a statuette of Si-Selick (13th Dyn.), a wooden stamp of Apepi, and a large wooden door of Osorkon I. Ouroh, 11/2 M. to the W.S.VV. of Illahun and close to the edge of the desert, owed its origin to Tutmes III., who built a temple there. Many of the inhabitiints were foreigners. Mr. Petrie discovered here fragments 42 Route 2. ABUKRAn. Faydm. of pottery of the time of Tutankliamou ami Ramses II., resembling the most ancient potsherds found at Myceniv. The coffin of Amentursha, discovered here, is now at Oxford. The pottery bears Kgyptian stamps, but also letters of the Cyprian, Phd'nician, and other alphabets. Birket el-Kurun auA Kasr Kuritn (tent, horses, provisions, etc., coinp. p. 34). The Ka.ii- way from Medinet el- Fay inn via Senru and Abu Ooniably derived from the conversion of the ancient Kgyplian name JIa-aleti into the similarly-sounding Greek name of iV-oil/jy.Yj (Apotheke ; Coptic, Tapothyke), i.e. Storehouse, an ad- mirable name for the chief town of a district so fertile in grain. Among the Hellenes it was generally known as Ahotis, At Bcdi'iri, on the E. bank, 2 M. from the river, arc some rude rock-tombs without inscriptions. On the W. bank follow the mail steamboat-stations Sedfch and I'emeh. to Belidneh. KAU EL-KEBIR. .7. Route. 47 By following the Arab hills we reach, 51/2 M. from Sedfeh, Rdhineh, with four large quarries in the hard limestone rock and some tombs of the old empire with roughly cut calyx-capitals and half-effaced sculptures. Similar tombs are found at Shi'kh Gdber and Dc>\ a little to the S.K. Kear Hanmniyeh, in the steep side of the rocky hill, are three grottoes, one above another, containing ancient tombs with inscriptions and re- presentations, belonging to the royal officials Afa and Kakes. In antiquity the place was named Xa-ATjmi ] I||lll ^r^ ® (Upper Kau; sec below). 141/2 M. Kau el-Kebir, situated in tlie plain on the E. bank, is surrounded by a ring of hills, containing rock-tomb.s with sculp- tures and large quarries with some demotic representations. The few inscriptions refer to the old empire. Stamped bricks found in the mounds of debris belonged to the buildings of the 18th Dy- nasty. The quarries contain ornaments and representations of the Roman period. Kau el-Kebir stands on the site of the ancient Antaopolls, capital of the Antaeopolitan nome, in which the hero Antffius and other deities were worshipped. An inscription found here reads : Avxatco y.otl toT? auvvaot; Qeolc, 'to Ant;eus and his divine colleagues'. In ancient Egyptian it was called the 'Nome of the two Gods', probably in commemoration of the contest be- tween Seth and Horus. According to the myth Antaeus, son of Poseidon and Gaea, was a giant of immense strength, whom Osiris, on his journey through the world to introduce the vine and the culture of grain, appointed his vicegerent over the land bordering on Ethiopia and Libya. Busiris was governor of the land to the E. Aiita3us used his giant's strength to overcome and slay strangers, and Uercules had to try conclusions with him when he landed in Libya to steal the cattle of Geryon. After a violent struggle, Her- cules succeeded in strangling his huge opponent. The deciding contest between Typhon (Seth) and Osiris, or rather Horus, son and representative of Osiris, took place, according to the version of the legend adopted by Diodorus, at Antaeopolis, although the in- scriptions, and notably the great Ilorvis text of Edfu, relate that the struggle raged from one end of the Nile valley to the other. The KsJ ^ Egyptian name of Kau was [^rG Z] u Tu ka^ or 'town of the h ® lofty mountain', whence is derived the Coptic Tkou. It was also known as "^"^ 1/ ^ Zes. According to Golenischcff Antffius was an Egyptian mountain-god (from ant = mountain), whom the Greeks compared with their Dionysus. A Tepresentation of AntjBUS men- tioned by Wilkinson, in which he appears with his head, like Helios, surrounded with rays, and accompanied by the goddess Ncphthys, has recently been re-discovered by Golenischcff in the N.E. angle 48 Route 3. SOIIAG. From Assiiit of the liill beliiiid K:\u ul-Kebir. Two nl' the j)ier.s ol' the grotto in which the representation occurs, hear pictures of Antieus. At tho l'ef.'iiinin;i (if the present ceiilury an interctin;^ temple stood on the site of the old town, of which the last colnnm wai washed away hy the Nile in 1821. .loinard, who described thia temple dnring thoFrcnch Expedition, v.hen the water already lapped its foundations, foretold its fate. The temple was dedicated tjy Ptolemy Philouiotor and bis wife Cleopatra to Anta>us and was restored by JIareus Aurelius Antoninus and his coUeaKne Verus (161 A.U). This information was conveyed by a double inscription, in Greek and in hicroglypliics, over the portal. The bulls of the hieroglyphic inscription yf^ SC^ ^f^ (Kdu) probably denoted the name of the town. The temple was Imilt of limestone and was at least 2'J5 ft. Ion};, 52 ft. wide, and 51 ft. hijjli. Its entrance faced the river. The 18 columns, which were arraufred in 3 rows, were ii7 ft. Lijjh, with a diameter of 27'/.i ft., and ended in palm-leaf capitals. If the {rigantic blocks fhat Joraard found on the f;rouiid were really parts of the coilinsr, they e.xceeded in si/.e those of Kariiak, which now excite our astonishment. One of them was 32 ft. louf;, 4^/4 ft. high, and 5'/* ft. thick, ami must have weighed at least 48 tons. To the S. of Kau el-Kebir the Nile makes a bend to tho W. and forms an island by dividing into two branches. On tho W. arm (W. bank), to the N. of the island, lies Kdu el-Gharbi (^V/. Kau), the seat of a rebellion in 1865, which had important consequences for all the inhabitants of Upper Egypt and about which the Oriental facility in forming tradition has already woven niinKrous legcnds.t The fcUahin scarcely venture to utter the name (Ahmed 'Payib) of the hero of this uprising, but speak of him with bated breath as a Messiah, who will one day return. He is saiil to be still living, iu Abyssinia, liigh up on the S. side of the hill of lyiiu arc some more rock-tombs. 12' 2 M. SdUel, on the W. bank, is the station for the town of Tahtah, situated 2 M. inland, with ;iOUO inhab. and a frequented cattle-market. On the E. bank, a little higher up, rises the Gebel SItckh el- Ildudeh, with ancient quarries and (high up) tombs hewn in tho rock, the openings of which are visible from the river. The material of which thc! temple of Antjcopolis was built was pro<-.ured in the large quarries on the 8. side of the mountain, and consists of a haru Bhanddi) was named, is slated to have been one of his pupils. It lies at the foot of the mountains, farther to the S.E., and may perhap.5 be rather called a Christian village than a convent, as husbands, wives, and children live here in families. The walls of the church are built of hewn stone, probably taken from the adjacent rxiins of Athrihis (ShCkh Hamed), dating from the Ptolemaic and Roman im- perial periods. It dates at latest from the 5th cent, and is a basilica with nave and aisles. The columns vary in height and thickness, and the capitals are partly of later date. The chancel ends in three vaulted apses. The cupolas are adorned with poor frescoes, and the other decorations are also wretched. — In the hills to the W. of the White Convent are a few late rock-tombs, one of which, according to the inscription, is that of Ermiiis, son of Archibius. 6'/2M. Akhmim, a steamboat and mail station on the E. bank, also reached from 8ohag by a shorter land-route, is a thriving little town with about 10,000 inhab., including 1000 Christians, some of whom are Roman Catholics, with a chapel of their own. The weekly market on Wed. is much frequented, and the bazaar is well- stocked. The numerous cotton mills produce the cloth for the blue shirts of the fellahin and for the long shCila (pi. sluildt), or shawls with fringes, which the poorer classes wear on state occasions and for prote(;t1on against cold. These articles, which have been made here since the time of Strabo, are extraordinarily cheap. Akhmim stands on the site of Khcmmis or PanopoUs, generally held to be the most ancient town on the Nile, though this honour probably belongs to the venerable This-Abydos, on the W. bank (p. 53). The deity specially venerated here was the form of Ammon Generator known as Ammon Khem, also called at a later date Alin, an appellation formed by dropping the Khem and abbreviating the Amen. Thus it is called ^[j.ivic, i.e. belonging to Min. For a figure of this deity, who appears in the most ancient texts, see Baedeker's Lower Egypt, p. 137. Diodorus, who among other classical writers gives us much information about Khemmis-Panopolis, calls it X£p.(J.cu, whence proceed the Coptic Shmin and the Arabic Ekhmmi or Akhmim. Its profane name on the monuments is Apu. Herodotus (II, 91) distinguishes the citizens of Khemmis as the only Egyptians who favoured Greek customs and relates that they erected a Bakdekeu's Upper Egypt. 4 50 Ruute 3. KUEMMIS. From Amut Icinplc to Perseus, worshipped him with Hcllc'iie rites, and held games ill his honour. The citizens clain ed Pcrsciis as a native of their town and told the };arrul<)us Halii-arnassian that lie had visited Kheminis, when on his w ay to Libya in pursuit of the Goi-fion's head, and had recognised them a^ his kinsmen. A statue of him stood in the temj)le. From time to time the hero revisited Khommis, leaving, as a sign of his presence, his sandals, which were two ells longj the linding of these was con- sidered a portent of pood fortune. The festival of polc-climljinp, celebra- ted in honour of Khem, probably suggested his identilication with the Greek Pan. — It is obvious that Perseus has been confused with Horns, the destroyer of Typhon-Scth. Among the various forms assumed by the 'Libyan Jlonster' in his long battle with llorus was that of a dragon or serpent, while Horus, like Perseus, was supported by wings in his en- counter-, hence the mistake of Herodotus. In any case he is e.xcusable for seeking in Kgypt the home of I'erseus, whose genealogy may be traced back to lo. -j- It is an interesting fact that a later author states that the Persea tree was first planted in Egypt by l^erscus. ^^s no goat-footed deities have been so far discovered in the Kgyptian cult, it is somewhat difficult to explain how Khem came to be identilied with Pan, unless on account of his Priapian characteristics. The Pans and satyrs at Khemmis first received and disseminated the news of the death of Osiris, and hence, says Plutarch, the sudden dread and confusion of a multitude is called panic. Aklnuim is thus the true home of Panic Fear. A white bull and a black cow were sacred to Khem. lie appears in the triad along with the child Horus and Isis Sekhet, surnaraed t-erpa (trcpha), whence the Greeks may have formed the name Triphis. Tryphsena was also a cognomen of some of the queens of the Ptolemaic line. Klicniinis still flourished in the Roman period, and its ancient and faniotis temple was finally completed in the 12th year of Trajan. After Christianity established itself here, the vicinity of Panopolis hecame crowded with convents. Nestorius, Hishop of Constantin- ople, who had been banished to the oasis of Ilibch (Khargeh, Egypt, lleb, p. 352) on account of his disbelief in the divine motherhood of the Virgin Mary, was attacked there by the plunder- ing I'lemmyes, and carried captive into the Thebaid, where he surrendered himself to the prefect of Panopolis, to avoid a charge of wilful lUght. lie died in Panopolis-Akhmlm. Even after the conquest of Egypt by Islam, the temple of the 'great town' of Akhmtm was. as Abulfeda and other Arabs relate, among the most imjiortant remains of the days of the Pharaohs. Edrisi gives the following account of it: 'At Akhmim we see the building called the l$arba (i.e. I'erpa, Coptic for temple), which the first Ilermcs erected before the flood (of many ancient temples) that of Akhmim is the most enduring and also the most remarkable for the beauty of its .sculpture. In truth we find rcpre.scnted in it not a few stars only, but also various arts and artists, along with numerous in- scriptions. The building lies in the midst of Akhmim'. Since this account a great part of the town must have vanished, as the temple rtiins now lie outside it, to the N. They are neither extensive nor beautiful, but are of interest to the savant, because they belonged, •1- Danaii, the mother of Perseus, was the daughter of Acrisius, son of Abas, son of Lynccus and Hypermnestra. Lynceus was the son of Aigyptos, and Hypermnestra was the daughter of Danaos, from whom the line runs up through lielos, Libyc, and Epajdios (ApisJ to lo. to BeliCineh. DER EL-ABYAD. 3. Route. 51 as the above-mentioned Greek inscription informs us, to the old temple of Pan, who is here represented in an ithyphallic form. Al- most all the inscriptions are rapidly becoming effaced, and the same fate is overtaking a circle divided into twelve parts and supposed to be intended for the Zodiac. Of the second temple of Khemmis, which Ilerodotus describes as dedicated to Perseus, the only re- mains are a few stones of the 18th Dynasty and some scanty frag- ments of a building of the Ptolemaic and Roman period. These are reached by the water when the Nile overflows its banks and are gradually being swept away. In 1884 Jlaspero discovered an extensive Necropolis adjoinin;j: a Coptic monastery among the mnuntains to the N.E. of Akbmim. Thousands of mummies have been t;iken thence and aome of them were sent to Europe. A visit to this necropolis is well worth undertaking. The best plan is to secure the company of Kkalil-Sakkar, keeper of the Egyptian Museum, and ride with him to the K.E., in the direction of the mountains, "n a hill beyond the village of (^4 hr.) el-HwDaisheh we see the deserted Coptic monastery, round which, in a wide circle, lie the tombs, now mostly destroyed. They date from the 6th Dynasty (Pepiseneb, Kheniankhtcta, Ankhu, etc.) down to the Greek and Roman period. The grave of Tutu, son of Sit asra (daughter of Osiris), with liturgical inscriptions, is well preserved (1885). Most of the mummies found here were in good preser- vation, and many contained rolls of papyrus. Among them were many priests (at) and priestesses (ahi) of Khem, whose genealogies are carried up for eight or ten generations. The town of Akhmim has now become the seat of an active trade in mummies. Objects of considerable interest and value may often be obtained from the dealers in antiquities, but relic-hunters should not try to make purchases in the presence of the keeper of the museum. Continuing our journey up the Nile, we soon see, close to the E. bank, a conspicuous convent-village, resembling a fortress. On account of its whitewashed walls the sailors call it Der el-Abyad, a name that properly belongs to the monastery mentioned at p. 49, which lies much farther to the W. About 50 men, women, and children occupy the convent, which has little of a religious cha- racter in its mode of life. The pretty little church, built of light and dark bricks, is lighted by cupolas, the largest of which is above the nave. The nave is separated from the aisles by wooden screens. The Hekel, or Holy of Holies, at the E. end, is carefully enclosed. In the nave, below the dome, stands the reading-desk of the priests, and at the W. end of the church, separated from the priests, are the seats for the laity. The paintings are wretched, and there are no old MSS. ; but the church is an excellent specimen of a Coptic place of worship and is worth visiting, especially as it is only 5 min. walk from the river. The monks are very obliging and arc grateful for a small donation (1 fr.. Is., or more). — Thornu, which was occupied by a Roman garrison, must have lain in this neigh- bourhood. 572 M. el-Menshiyeh, a steamboat and mail station on the W. bank, is merely a peasants' town, with very few houses of a 4* 52 ICoute 3. GIRGEH. better class. It was probably fouuded by Soter I. and in the time of the Pliaraolis it was called Neshi and Pdsehck (Crocodilopulia), afterwards P.-'e-ptulvidios; under the I'tok'niies it was known as Ploleniais-Hermiu Pa!oatmen halt to bake a new supply of bread. As, however, thi.s operation takes 24 hrs. (a suiiply for several weeks bcinp necessary), and as Girg;eh is not a con- venient place for so long a stoppage, the traveller is advised to make a contract in Cairo before starting to the ellbct that the hall for baking be made at Assiut. or Kench and not in Girgeh. No ro'i.f will give up this privilege, unle.is he has been previously hound down to do so in writing. The customs of the Nile boatmen are almost as unehangcablc as those of the desert Arabs. The only siiitable way in which (o Till up a halt of 24 hrs. at Girgeh would I)e to make an excursion to tlie (cmplc of Abydos, but this is much more conveniently reached from BeJianeh (p. 53). A day can be very proUlably spent at cither Assiut or Keneh, in the latter case by a visit to the noble temple of Denderah (coiup. the Contract at p. xxi). Girgeh, which contains 14,900 inliab., preceded Assiiit as the capital of Upper ICgypt, but is now merely the chief place in the province of Girgeh, while the seat of the Mudiriyeli is at Sohag (p. 48). It becomes more probable every day that Girgeh occupies the site of the ancient I'his (hieroglyph. Tcni), in whicli the god Anhur (Greek Onouris) was specially worshipped (comp. p. 03). (Some ancient tombs of the Gth Dynasty exist here, including one of the time of Mercnptah ; and a little to the N. are some other graves of the ancient kingdoni. Many of the present inhabitants are Copts. Outside the town lies a Roman Catholic/ convent, which is probably the oldest but one in Egypt; the abbot is a member of the Fraternity of the Iloly Sepulchre. The name of the town is Christian, being that of St. George or Girges, the patron-saint of the Coptic Christians, a representation of whom, in his combat with the dragon, is present in almost every Coptic church. St. George AP.TDOS. 4. Route. 53 was canonised on April 23r(l, 303 A.D. ; and even as early as the 5th and 6th cent, we find him a favourite saint of the Egyptians. Leo Africanus says that the Coptic brothers of St. George at Girgeh were very wealthy and tells how they provided travellers with what was necessary on their journey and sent rich gifts for the poor to the Patriarch at Cairo. To this day several of the Coptic families at Girgeh are very rich, possessing large estates; preeminent among these is that of P.othrns. Tlie town looks very picturesque as seen from the river. The Nile makes a sharp bend here, and the effect is as if the W. bank, on which the town stands, was at right angles to the E. bank. The Arabian mountains rise like walls, and the four tall minarets of the town, on the opposite bank of the Nile, seem to vie with tliem in height. A picturesque group on the river-brink is formed by an old and dilapidated mosque and a tall minaret beside it. Many of the houses in the town are built of burnt brick and decorated with glazed tiles. The bazaar resembles those of other Nile towns. ■ — ■ From Girgeh to Abydos ('Arabat el- Madfuneh), I'J-IS M., see below. — At Mesha'ik, on the E. bank, above Girgeh , scholars will find interesting remains of a temple bearing the names of Amenhotep III. and Ramses II. Some very ancient graves of priests of This have also been found there. 8 M. Belianeh, on the W. bank, is a mail-station and the start- ing-point from which passengers on both tlie 'three weeks' and the 'four weeks' steamer make the excursion to Abydos (see below). Excursion to the Western Oases, see R. 35. 4. Abydos. Belianeh is now tlie usual starting-point for a visit to 'Arcibat cl-Madfi'meh (Abydos), yvhidi lies about S'/.j M. to tlie S.W., in- land from the river. This highly interesting excursion, which should on no account be omitted, involves a ride of 2hrs. (there and back 4 hrs.). The donkeys at Belianeh are bad and provided only with loose rugs or straw-mats instead of saddles, and those at Girgeh are no better. At Abydos accommodation may be obtained in the house of Sallbeh, keeper of the antiquities. The track crosses the large Canal of Rcnaneh, traverses a fertile district dotted with numerous villages, and finally leads over part of the Libyan Desert. Fine view of the mountain-chain running towards the Nile. The ancient Abydos lay in advance of this chain, on a site which may coniidently be called the cradle of the earliest line of the PharafHis. Menes, the first king of Egypt, is said to have been a Thinite, i.e. an inhabitant of the nome of This (Egypt. Teni). Adolf Schmidt, in his 'Forschuniien auf dem Geliiet des Alterthums', tries to prove that This (Teni) lay near el-Kherheh, a little to the N. of Abydos, while Pococke socks it at el-Birheh (the temple), 3 M. to the W. of Oirgeh (coinp. p. 5'i). If, as Eljers has suggested, the earliest Asiatic jnimigrants into Egypt entered the Nile valley Irnm the S., via. Arabia .and the Strait of Bfih el- 54 Routed. ABYPOS. Memnonium Mandeb, they could have found no more suitalile spot for a settlement than the nci'^hbourhood of Abydos, where the fertile W. bank of the Nile expands and oilers easy cultivation and excellent dwelling-sites, removed from all danjcr of inundation. This is the most ancient town in Kgypt, and its neighbour Abydos cannot have been much younger, for even in the time of the early empire it is frequently spoken of as a holy city. It possessed the most famous grave of Osiris, of which it was helieved that burial in its vicinity or consecration in its sanctuary went far in ensuring a favourable judgment in the world to come. From an early jieriod the grandees of the iand caused their mummies to be brought hither — often, however, for a limited time only, directing that, as soon as the wished-for blessings had been received from Osiris, the bodies should be carried back to their ancestral burial-grounds. Marictto has proved that the town it.self (Kgypt. Ahln) was never of any great ex- tent. The extant ruins extend from el-Kherbeh on the N.W. to 'Arabat el-Jladfuneh on the S.E. If, however, Abydos was small in the number of its citizens, it was great through the importance of the gods wor- shipped in its temples. Each of the 4'2 nomes of Egypt possessed its temple of Osiris; but none of them, except that of Sokar in Jlemphis, rivalled in sanctity that of Abydos. The testimony of the monuments is conlirmed by the classical writers. Herodotus left Upper Egypt nnde- scribed, because HecaUrns had already treated of it, b\it we quote the celebrated passage in which the trustworthy Strabo speaks of Abydos : 'Above it (Ptolemais) lies Abydos, the site of the Mcmnonium, a wonderful palace of stone, built in the manner of the Labyrinth, only somewhat less elaborate in its complexity. Uclow the Memnonium is a spring, reached by passages with low vaults consisting of a single stone and l)roniinent by their extent and mode of construction. This spring is connected with the Nile by a canal , which flows through a grove of Egyptian thorn-acacias, sacred to Apollo. Abydos seems once to have been a large city, second only to Thebes, but now it is a small place, etc." Abydos is also mentioned by Plutarch, AthenaMis, Stephanus of Byzantium, Ptolemy, Pliny, and others. Ammianus Marcellinus speaks of the oracle of the god Besa, which nourished here. The ordinary traveller, especially when he has at his disposal only the 8 hrs. allowed by the steamer, will confine liiniself to the Memnonium of Seti I. (PI. 1) at 'Arabat el-Madfuneli and the sadly dilapidated Temple of Ramses 11. (I'l. II). The remains of the so-called Temple of Osiris at tl-Kherheh (PI. Ill) and tlie adjacent site of Mariette's excavations in the aiuient necropolis among the Libyan hills are rapidly becoming less and loss interesting through the steady encroachment of the desert sand. The Memnonium of Seti I. This noble structure, which, from the time of Strabo onwards, has been visited and described by so many travellers, did not become fully known to the modern world till Marietto Bey, with characteristic judg- ment and jicrseverance and supported by the generosity of the Khedive, began in 1853 the task of freeing it from the sand. His plan of isolating the building by digging a trench round and preventing new accumu- lations of san**oi5-/i^ih,Ani»Uill ' Wopirr t Di-hcH, I.i-ifiip ofSelil. AM'DOS. 4. Route. 55 of the adjoining village, 'Arabat el-Madfuneh, i.e. 'Arahat of the buried'. Possibly the last portion of the name may refer to Osiris, whose grave hero attracted so many pilgrims, and Madfiln (masc.) may be a translation of the old name of the temple-quarter of Abydos. In spite of the most lavish expenditure of time, money, and labour, the excavators failed to find either the spring mentioned by Strabo or the tomb of Osiris, and yet the latter must lie dose to the part of the ruins called Kdm es-Sultdn, near tlie holy hill of Abydos so often mentioned in the inscriptions. " Mariette derives the name Memnonium from that of its founder Seti Ra-men-ma or Meu-ma-ra. This, however, is undoubtedly wrong, and Lepsius was the first to show that the Egyptian word Mennu I I www C£ AAAAAA, applied to any large monument or memorial, whether architec- tural or plastic, led the Greeks to describe every palatial structure of the ancient Kgyptians as a Mejavo'viov (Memnonion) or palace of Memnon. Perhaps they lirst heard the name Mennu given to the colossal figures of Amenhotep III. at Thebes (p. 153) and were attracted by its resemblance in sound to the name of the son of Eos who fell before Troy ; hence they called the figures, afterwards so celebrated, statues of Memnon, and saw Memnonia, or palaces of the same hero, in some of the large memorial buildings described as Mennu. The fact that the Hellenes did not apply this name to all the great buildings of Egypt, but only to some of the temples of W. Thebes and to the sanctuary of Seti at Abydos, may be explained by the supposition that in the time of the Pharaohs these build- ings monopolised the epithet of Blennu, just as the fortress of the Con- queror in London is known as the Tower par excellence among the numerous towers of that city. The temple of Seti became known as the Memnonium or Palace of Memnon in the Alexandrine period, and a natural consequence was the conversion of the name Ahlu into the simi- larly sounding Ahydos or Abydus, the name of a town of Troas on the Hellespont, not far from the burial-place of Memnon. By degrees the Asiatic hero, son of Tithonus and Eos and ally of Priam (comp. p. 154), was converted into an Ethiopian, and the lively imagination of the Greeks transferred the Asiatic legends to Egypt and adapted them to Egyptian conditions. Thus they related that Tithonus sent an Ethiopian army to aid his son against Troy. These soldiers, however, heard of the death of Memnon at Abydos in Upper Egypt and retraced their steps, after hang- ing their garlands on the acacias in the holy grove at the Memnonium. Birds were fabled to have sprung frona the ashes of Memnon, and reap- peared on certain days every year, removed alljimpurities from his grave, dipped their wings in the Aesopos, which flows into the Propontis at Cy- zicus, and sprinkled the grave with the water. At a later date these birds were said to come from Ethiopia. Finally it was asserted that the Egyp- tian Abydos had been founded by colonists from its Asiatic namesake. The Memiioninm of Abydos is not an ordinary divine or religious temple like those of Denderah, Kamak, and Edfii, bnt is rather one of the series of sepulchral sanctuaries of which mention is made at p. 170 of Baedeker's Lower Egypt. The numerous representations and inscriptions that cover its walls are mostly of a very general nature. They tell us, however, that the building they adorn was primarily intended for ftuiereal purposes. As already mentioned, the bodies of numerous princes and grandees were brought here to participate in the blessings that were supposed to emanate from the sacred tomb of Osiris. The Pharaohs nowhere offercid sacrifices to the manes of their forefathers more gladly than at Abydos, and prayers were put up here to the Osiris-kings of the ancient house 5G Route 4. ABYDOS. Memnonhim of the Pharaohs just as at the neighhoiiringl'tolemais divine honours were paid to tlie deceased princes of Macedonian origin. — It was natural enough tliat in a sanctuary devoted to purposes of this kind no boisterous festivals or ceremonies should take place, and we are not surprised to learn that neither singer nor flute-player nor lute- player was allowed within its walls. The great building of Abydos, at first sight, impresses neither by its size nor by its beauty. The walls consist of tine-grained limestone, while a harder material (sandstone) has been selected for tlie columns, arcliitraves, door-posts, and other burden-bearing parts. The foundations are nowhere more than 41/2 ft. thick, and the platforms on wliich the columns rest are equally shallow. Numerous blocks have become disjointed, owing, as Mariette has shown, to the giving way of the dove-tails of sycamore wood with which they were fastened. The inscriptions of Seti and the earlier ones of liis son and successor show great purity of style, but this quality disappears in the later texts of the latter. It has been established that a sanctuary of some importance stood at Abydos even in the days of the ancient empire, a7id indeed we hoar of its restoration in that remote epoch. Our witness is a stele, now in the IjOuvre, on whic/h Ameniseneb, a priest and ar(;hitect, who lived in the reign of I'sertesen I. (12th Dyn.), records the fact that he renewed the (colouring and inscriptions in the temple of Abydos from top to bottom. This probably means the building of which some fragments, belonging to the I'ith Dynasty, are seen to the N. of the Memnonium (see p. 07). Under the Hyksos the ancient sanctuary was entirely neglected, and tlie only record here of the 18th Dynasty, which was almost wholly absorbed by its wars and foundations in Thebes, is an inscription of Tutmes III. Seti 1., however, of the 19th Dynasty, built an entirely now temple, and his son Ramses II. completed the adornment that his father left unfinished. The ground-plan of the structure is unusual, and differs materially from tliat of other great Egyptian temples. Among the features, however, which it has in common with these are the pylons, a first and second fores-court, hypostyli- halls, and a sanc- tuary. The last, however, is much more richly articulated than usual. The witig to the S. (to the; left on entering) forms an ac- curate right angle with the main edifice. The whole structure is in tlie shape of a mason's square. We enter the temple from the N.E. Tlie first pylon and the walls enclosing Court A are in ruins. Couht B, which opcius to the S. on the temple proper, is in better preservation. The sons and daughters of UaiuBes II. W(!re represented on the right and left walls, but the figures and inscriptions have been almost elTaced. In .spite of the fact that all the inscriptions and representations here refer to Itamses II., it has been proved throuKli the discovery by Mariette of a dove-tail (sec above) bearing the nanits of Seti I., that the I of Sell I. ARYDOS. 4. Roule. 57 latter founded this N. part of tlie temple and left merely the de- coration of it to his son. — The facade of the temple is of very unusual form. A row of 12 limestone columns stand a short di- stance in advance of the temple wall, forming with it a kind of pronaos. In the time of Seti seven doors, corresponding to the seven chambers of the sanctuary (see below), pierced the rear-wall, which was adorned with a cornice of its own. On ceremonial occasions the processions in honour of the king seem to have entered by tlu; door to the extreme left; the next served for processions to Ptah, tlie third for Harmachis, the fourth for Ammon, the fifth for Osiris, the sixth for Isis, and the seventh for Horns. Ramses, however, walled up six of these doors, leaving the central one alone, the decoration of which had been begun by Sett, as the main entrance to tlie temple. A small door in the Ilorus gateway, to the extreme right, is still open. The pillars bear huge figured representations and a few inscriptions, wliich refer to Seti I. as deceased and intro- duce Ramses II. in the company of Ammon-Ra, Osiris, Horus, and other gods. The hieroglyphics Inform ns that Ramses erected this part of the temple in honour of his father, one phrase, for instance, reading : 'The king of Upper and Lower Egypt, the Lord of the barbarians (Nine Nations), to make great the name of his father'. The entrance-wall behind the pillars confirms this pious filial wish beyond the shadow of a doubt. In the wall, to the left of the main entrance, is a large and conspicuous inscription in 95 vertical lines, which, after the lists of kings, must be called the most important ill Al)ydos. It consists of two parts. In the first Ramses relates how, on coming to Abydos, he found his father's work unfinished and resolved to carry it to a conclusion. The grandees rejoiced at this resolution, and workmen and artists of every kind were sum- moned to aid in the task. In the second part Pharaoh recalls to his consciousness all the honours he had paid and the gifts he had presented to his father. The gods show him favour on ac('ount of his pious acts and advance, one by one, to bestow upon him the richest gifts of heaven : strength, fearlessness, victory, immortality, etc. A picture accompanying the inscription represents Ramses, with a crown on his head, ofi'ering sacrifices to the goddess Ma and to a triad consisting of Osiris, Isis, and his father Seti I., who takes tiiH place of Horus. Recently deceased, Seti^ appears as the youthful god, the victorious opponent of the might of Death, who will soon l)ecome Osiris, after subduing all his enemies beneath his feet. On one of the pillars, indeed, Seti is already described as the 'royal Osiris'. The inscription dates from the first year of the single rule of Ramses and from the time of his first journey to Tliebes, when he erected statues of liis father in the city of Ammon and in Memphis. At Abydos he first undertook tlie restoration of his father's monumental structures in the necropolis, on the spot specially sacred to Osiris Unncfer. After mentioning other restora- 58 4. Route AP.YDOS. Memnonium tions, the inscription rontinnes as follows, with special reference to this temple: 'For lo.^while the temple of Ua-ma-men (i.e. Seti 1.) was still building both back and front, Seti ascended to heaven, before his Memnonium (Mennu) was completed. The columns had not yet been pla(;ed upon their bases, the statue lay on the ground and was not yet finished off, when he (Seti) became acquainted Avith the tomb (the 'golden room', the principal chamber of Seti's tomb at Biban el-MuliJk), etc. Then said His Majesty to the seal- bearer by his side : Summon the courtiers, the military commanders, and their fellows, and also the whole multitude of architects and librarians. When tliese were conducted before His Majesty, pressing their noses in the dust and their knees to the earth, they broke out into rejoicing and smelled the ground (i.e. prostrated themselves). They raised their arms, praising His Majesty, and prayed to this benignant d(uty, celebrating his perfection'. Then follow emphatic expressions of worship, addressed to the king. 'Then spoke His Majesty unto them and said: I summoned you before me on account of a plan that has entered my mind. I have seen the buildings of the necropolis and the tombs that are at Abydos, and also those who have to work there. Truly nothing has been restored since the time of their lord unto the present day. llut when a son finds him- self on the throne of his father, shall he not renew the moniiment (Menini) of liis begetter? . . . From childhood until now 1 have been a prince. He gave me the earth as a gift, and while I was yet in the egg the great ones of the earth prostrated themselves before me. ... I have called my father to a new life in gold (i.e. as a statue) in the first year of my exaltation. I have given orders that his temple be adorned and I have made sure his possession of the land ... I have olTered him sacrifices. . . . And now, when his building stood in my power, I watched overall the labours connected with it ... . I enlarged and renewed his palatial structure. I did not neglect his foundations, as wicked children do, who do not respect their father ... I built anew the walls of the temple of my begetter. I presented before him the man whom I had selected to superintend the works. . . I erected pylons in front of it, I have covered his house with clothing (sculptures), 1 have adorned its columns and provided stones for the foundations. A finished work was the nioiinment, doubly as glorious as at first. It is (named) after my name and after the name of my father, for, as the son, so is also tlu! father'. In the following sentences Ramses is praised as a model son and the highest gifts of the gods are assured to him. 'Since the Bun-god Ka there has never been a son who has accomplished what thou hast. . . . Thou, thou workest, thou renewcst one monument to the gods after another, according to the command of thy father Ua'. The whole world obeys him and brings him offerings. After the grandees have finished their oration, he once more orders the officials, masters, artists, labourers, and all others engaged in the of Sell I. ABYDOS. 4. Route. 59 building operations to construct the sanctuary of his father in the necropolis and to hew out his statiie. Sacrifices and festivals are richly provided for. The rest of the inscription assumes more and more the character of a hymn, like those mentioned at p. 258 and elsewhere. The ahove will suffice to show the filial piety, with which Ramses, at least in the earlier part of his reign, strove to complete and re- store the work of his father. But the remains of tlie building con- structed by him near the Temple of Seti at Abydos (p. 67) prove that he also founded a large Memnonium for himself in the district saTietifled by the tomb of Osiris. Interior op the Temple. 1. The Hypostyle Halls and the Sevenfold Sanctuary. From the Pronaos, containing the above inscription, two doors only now lead into the interior of the temple: the main entrance in the middle and a narrow door to the extreme right. The First Hypostyle Koom (PI. C) , a long but narrow apartment, makes a solemn and imposing impression. The roof, part of which has fallen in, is supported by 24 columns, arranged in two rows and in groups of four. The slender shafts are surmounted by capitals in the form of papyrus buds. Seti I. did not complete the plastic de- coration of the room. Ramses began new sculptures instead of those begun by his father, apparently forgetting the great filial piety he arrogates to himself in the above -quoted inscription (p. 58). Whether it was that the zeal of the son abated along with his grief for his father, or that the priestly S('ulptors thought it better to cele- brate a living prince rather than a dead one, the fact remains that it is Ramses alone who is here depicted and the temple itself is simply called the temple of Abydos, not, as in the earlier inscrip- tions, that of Ra-ma-men [i.e. Seti). The sculptures preserved here are of mediocre workmanship, and the inscriptions and represen- tations, almost wholly dealing with Ramses and his reception of gifts from the different gods, are generally uninteresting even for the scholar. On the right wall, near the second chamber, is a series of gods, consisting of Ra, Shu (the giver of all delight) and his sister Tefnut (giver of health) , Seb (giver of life and strength), Osiris, Horus (giver of every victory), Isis (giver of life and strength), tlie great god Apheru (Anubis), and Nut, who imparts the fulness of salvation. — The sis. lists of the nomes of Egypt, on the lower part of the walls, are also interesting. As elsewhere, the districts are represented as bearded male figures with the emblem of the nome (a piece of surveyed ground, m il ) and a standard bearing the symbol of the special district. As the lists here have no annota- tions, they are of less value than those at Deiiderah and elsewhere. Tlicy indicate that it was customary for all the districts of the land to pay their vows and bring gifts to the gods of a special sanctuary. 00 Route 4. ARYDOS. Memnonium The^Second Hypostyle Room (PI. D) resembles tln^ first, but is higher, deeper, and in all respects of more importance. Seti I. be- gan it and his artists exei nted both the architertiiral details and the plastic adornment with the carefulness and purity of style that marks all their work. The son has here left umhanged the name of the father, which occurs at every point. Three rows of twelve columns each support the architrave, on which rest the roofing slabs, and are arranged in six groups, each of six columns, be- tween the groups access is alTorded to the vaulted chambers in the wall facing us as we enter. The first two of the three rows of col- ums have papyrus-bud capitals. Beyond the second row ti»e floor of the temple is considerably raised, forming a platform from which the vaulted chambers are entered. Upon this platform stands the third row of columns, the cylindrical shafts of which are entirely destitute of i^apitals, but bear huge blocks of stone forming an aba- cus for the support of the architrave. This peculiarity is simply ex- plained by the fact that the columns in the third row are shorter than the others, owing to their raised platform, so that the architect, by omitting the capital, brings thi; abacus of all on the same level and avoids the unpleasant effect which different elevations of the ar(;hitrave would make on the eye. When processions of worshippers filed in and out, performing pious ceremonies, this hall must have prese'ited a very imposing spoi'tade. Inscriptions below the open- ings leading from tl\e first hall to the second inform us they were formerly filled with doors of bronze (asem). The inscriptions and representations on the walls and iiolumns repeat themselves weari- somely and are of little general interest. Here we see the king re- ceiving from the gods such attributes of the royal dignity as the crooked sword or the scourge and crook (symbols, perhaps, of the royal duties of incentive on the one side and restraint on the other) ; there we behold him ofl'ering burnt- offerings to a single god, a triad, or a group of gods. If the king is rei-.eiving gifts, he is generally represented on his knees; wlien he sacrifices, he leans slightly forward, holding the burnt-offering in the left hand and libations in the right. Sometimes he is seated, receiving the bless- ings of tin: gods; he appears thus in the fine piiture on the N. Wall of the second room, with Isis, Ainenti, and N(iplithys in front, and the goddess Ma and Uenpet behind. Jlis profile is evidently a faith- ful likeness and is everywhere portrayed with great artistic skill. The unusual handsomeness of this king is still recognisable in his mummy at Gizeh. Tlie sacrificial implements should also be noted. Censers like that in his hand have been found, but in bronze, while his were do\ibtless of gold. They are in the form of an arm, the hand holding a small vessel from which the smoke of the incense arises. The hatullo shows the carefully i^xecuted sparrow hawk's bead of ilorus. The libation vessel was in the form ol' a golden lo- tus fiower, wi(h small vases rising above the open corolla, from which I of Set i I. ABYDOS. 4. Route. 61 essences were poured out iu houour of the goil. The framework of each scene, the mouldings separating the lines of hieroglyphics, and the hieroglyphic symhols themselves are all executed with in- imitahle care. The side-walls of this hall, to the right and left, and the walls near the gates leading to the chapels, hear symbolic re- presentations, like those in the first hall, of the nomes of Upper and Lower Egypt. At a considerable interval,' beyond the third row of columns in the second hall, and on the same level with them, is a series of Seven Vaulted Ciiambbks or Chapels, forming the Sanctuary of thoMemnonium. The metal doors with whiih they were once closed have long since disappeared. In the piers separating the doors arc rectangular niches, which probably contained images either of the deities to whom the chapels were dedicated or of King Seti. Each chapel is vaulted and the vaults are profusely and beautifully de- corated with stars and the name Ra-ma-men (prasuomen of Seti I.). Dedicatory inscriptions on three of the vaults prove that Osiris must be regarded as the chief divinity of the temple. It must be noted that the roofs of these chapels are not vaulted in the strict archi- tectural signification of that word; they consist rather of blocks of stone cut in a rotnid fashion and crowned by a key-stone which is hollowed out in the interior. The chapels were dedicated (beginn- ing from the left) to the king, Ptah, llarmachis. Amnion, Osiris, Isis, and llorus. All the chief figures in the Osiris cycle of gods are represented here with the exception of Seth, the antagonist of Osiris, and his wife Nephthys. "With them is associated the king who has become Osiris (see p. 57}. Ptah, who becomes Sokar-Osiris when regarded in his relations to life beyond the grave, is of course re- presented. In the place of honour in the midst of the seven is Am- mon, 'who is the only one and whose years flourish among the gods', who is 'loftier in his ideas than any other god', 'to whose feet the gods crawl, recognising their lord and master', who is 'lord of eternity and creator of the unending', of whom indeed the other gods may be regarded as attributes. To the right and left of Am- nion are two groups of throe. To the right are Osiris, Isis, and Ho- rns ; to the left are Ptah the primseval, the lord of the past ; llar- machis, who announces the new day rising in the East, who strug- gles for the victory of life over death, and assures the future triumph of good over evil; and King Seti, the temporal incarnation of divine power in the present, in the sphere of human activity. • — To these gods, conceived as filling these chapels with their pre- sence, were broiight the mummies, to be sanctified for their eternal Lome. The way to the different chapels was indicated on the very threshold of the temple, where Seti I., as we have seen, constructed seven doors in the rear-wall of the pronaos. Most of these, how- ever, were closed by Ramses, probably to intensify and preserve the secret and mysterious character of the temple. But the pathsjo the 02 lioule 4. ABYDOS. Mcmnoniuin different chapels arc still easily distinguishable, partly from the plan of the buildin;^, partly by the representations and inscriptions ; for from each, of the seven doors a processional approach led through the two hypostyle halls straight to tlio entrance of the correspond- ing chapel; while the representations on the columns flanking each approach refer oidy to the deity to whom the chapel at the end of it was dedicated. In the vaulted chapels, amid the fumes of in- cense and the murmuring of muffled singing, waited the minis- tering priests of the sanctuary, pouring out libations and uttering benedictions as the processions wound along tht! aisles, either bearing a mummy to be sanctified or consisting of a group of privi- leged laymen bringing offerings to the Osiris gods for the soul's welfare of the deceased. — The dedications are inscribed on the door-posts in the traditional forms and with little va«ation. Similar vaults oci'ur at Benihasan and Dcr el-Bahri, and also in the lids of the sarcophagi in the museum at Giz(di. In each case the monu- ments to whi(!h they belong serve funerary purposes; the shape ol the vault is, however, intended to represent the vault of heaven, whii-h the Osiris-soul has to traverse, and they are usually decorated with stars. An inscription preserved on one of the vaults of the sanctuary informs us that the Pharaoh erected this structure for his father Osiris in the interior of the temple of Ha-nia-men and fitted up the chapel to resemble the heaven of the ninefold deities, imi- tating its constellations, etc. The intcrnul fitting up and appearance of llie chapels vary little. As the middle place had to be assigned to Ammon, (ho chief of the gods, it, was necessary to mark the special dignity of Osiris, to whom indeed tlio temple was consecrated, by makinp: his chapel (PI. d) wider than the others. The roar-walls of the latter are, in each case, occupied by two niches, with a lotus-llowcr between them, from which rises the slender form of Osiris, symbolisinf; the blossoming of the soul in a 'haiipicr sphere'. In the buck- wall of the sanctuary of Osiris, however, is a door, leading to a structure (PI. E) which, including the adjoining smaller columned chambers, is as wide as the whole sanctuary. This was the scone of the mysterious rites cele- brated in honour of the Pivinc-Peccasod (Osiris, whose name even the Greek Herodotus shrank from breathing) by the esoteric priests of the highest class (see Bacdeker^s Lower JCyppt, p. 124). The inscriptions in the chapels inform us that the priestly proccssionst, which came from all parts of (he kingdy Eisenlolir in 1870; unfortiinatelir only the lower parts of lines arc preserved. Adjacent, to the W. and N., are represent. itions of events in the Kheta war, similar to those of the Raracssenm at TLebcs. The exterior of the S. wall is covered with a loni^ inscription, recountin;; the building of the temple, of wliich the following is a translation. 'Behold his Majesty, Life, Salvation, anu7n Polin (Ilyph.ena tlie- baica) becomes more and more common, generally occurriiif; in groups and increasing in size and beauty as we travel southwards (^comp. p. 28^. It is a fan-leaved palm of moderate height, dividing into two parts at the iipper end of the stem and sometimes repeat- ing this bifurcation two or three times. It extends far to the S. of Egypt, and whole forests of it are found on the upper Nile. Its large nuts contain a soft and fibrous pulp, which is edible and tastes like sweet cake; while various objects are made out of the hard rind. Its timber and bast are also of considerable industrial value. The ancient LepUlotum must have lain on the E. bank of the river opposite Belianeh ; but, though des(;ribcd by Ptolemy as a large town, no trace of it remains. The l.epidotus (the Cyjirinus Icpidotus of tieolTroy, and Cinex deutex of Savigny ) was held here in high honour, though, according to Plutarch, it was one of the fishes that swallowed the Phallus of Osiris and was hence generally regarded with special abhorrence. From Belianeh to Keneh the Nile valley lies almost due E. and W. About 4 M. from tlie S. bank lies Sdmltud, on ancient rubbish- mounds. Ndgi-Htimddi, also on the S. bank, 19 M. from Belianeh, is the station for FarsMt, 3 M. to the 8., now an uninteresting village with a large sugar-factory belonging to the Khedive. So late as tbe 18th cent. thi.s wn.s .still the .scat of the jrreat .shi-kh, who was the head of the Famiris (jil. of Faris, here ])rnii. Ilavaris), or tribes of mounted Arabs on the left bank of the Nile. The comparative width of the river-plain makes horsc-breedinp; an important occupation among these tribes, and thoir shagpy prey do^'s are also celebrated. The latlers are fre()uently seen guarding the flocks of sheep, and are easily distinguishable from the worthless and cowardly curs that haunt the streets of the towns and villages. When encouraged to attack by their owners, these lirave animals are exceedingly dangerous antagonists.— From Farshut to the Great Oasis, see R. 35. 9V2 M. Hou (W. bank) and Kasr es-Saiy&d (E. bank) lie nearly opposite one another, at one of tlie sharpest bends in the stream. liou, a large btit miserable-looking village, was the home of Shckh Selim, who diei1 a few years ago, at a very advanced age, after sitting stark naked on the bank of the Nile for 53 years; ho was regarded by pious Moslems with great honour and was deemed to possess great powers in helping navigation and barren women. His grave here is covered with Arabic inscriptions and votive gifts in the form of small boats. Those who wish to vi.sit the scanty ruins of the ancient Siospolis Parva traverse the village in the direction of tlic mountains, cross two deep ditclios, near whicli .stand the finely built jiiers of a ruined bridge, and reach (25 min.) a large mnund of debris, known as Oebel //or (i.e. Iloriis). This is the only ri'niuaiil of (lie ancient Piospolis, with the excoptiuu of a fraguicul of a leuiplc of the I'tuleuiies iu the village, KASR ES-SAIYAD. 5. Route. 71 where, too, some stones bearing the cartouches of Ptolemy Philometor project from the ground in a clear space. Nothing of interest is to be seen here except one of the largest and oldest lebbek-trees in Egypt. The extensive cemetery contains numerous Cutic inscriptions. Hiero- glyphic inscriptions have been found in grottoes in a hill to the W. of the tovrn. Kasr es-Saiydd (mail steamer station) marks the site of the an- cient ChenoboBkion, which is mentioned by Ptolemy, by Stephanus of Byzantium, and in the Itinerary of Antonine, and belonged to the Nomas Panopolites. No remains are visible except a few frag- ments ofthe river wall, with an unimportant Greek inscription of the Roman period. It owes its name, meaning 'geese pasture' (XtjVO- PoaxeTov, Copt. ujenecH'V; from the ancient Egyptian Geese lake\ to the fai't that immense quantities of geese, a favourite food and sacrificial offering of the old Egyptians, were reared here. Its pro- pinquity to the home of Menes (This-Abydos) makes it seem quite natural that graves of hoar antiquity (6th Dynasty) should be found in the neighbourhood. These are reached from the village of Kasr cs-Saiyad in about lY4hr. Donkeys, but no saddles, may be ob- tained, through the Shekh el-Beled. We lirst ride through a well- tilled district, cross a bridge over a canal which waters the district, pass the village of Isbali, and reach the Arab hills. The ancient tombs, constructed of light-coloured and unusually flne-grained limestone, now come in sight; they date from the reigns of Pepi, Merira, and Raneferka, all of the 6th Dynasty. The large tomb situated farthest to the left contains representations and inscriptions which are identical in style with those in the most ancient part of the Necropolis of Memphis. The ceiling was leftrough-hewn. Some of the small inscriptions cut in the living rock near the entrance are in Coptic. The representations on the inside of the entrance- wall have been almost wholly destroyed, but some ships may be distinguished to the right ofthe door. On the right wall are figures bearing funereal gifts and a large sacrificial table. The rear-wall is divided into two distinct portions, as the left side of the tomb has been pushed much farther into the rock than the right. In the latter are two niches. That to the right contains an image of the deceased, one ofthe chief dignitaries under the Pharaoh Raneferka, nauud Zuta { /C'^^ \\^^l\ )• From the second niche, farther to the left, a mummy-shaft descends obliquely; adjacent is a Cop- tic inscription. In the deeply recessed rear-wall of the left side are four smaller niches, probably intended for the coffins of members of Zuta's household deemed worthy of special honour. — The next tomb, farther to the right, is of even greater interest than the one just described. It belonged to an official named Atkhenu, who lived in the reigns of Pepi, Merira, and Raneferka, and was not only en- gaged in the construction ofthe pyramids of these monarchs, but was also a distinguished warrior. The pyramids were named 'Good Place', 72 liwleS. TABENNA. From Belianeh 'Fine Ascent', and 'Scene of Lile' I A r\X \ \ \ The names of the three kings and their pyramids were found in the inscriptions to the right and left of the entrance (outside). The tomb is in thu form of a rectangle, with the mummy-shaft open- ing in the back-wall. The representation of Atkhenu, to the left of the entrance, is very lifelike and derives peculiar interest from the fact that the grandees of the early period are seldom represented, as here, in full military activity. Uur hero, another Una (see Baedeker's Lower Eyypt, p. 307), lifts the arm vigorously to strike his foe. The mode of wearing the liair and headdress, seen Loth in this figure and that of Atkhenu's wife, is unusual. Atkhenu was a rich man, possessing, according to the inscriptions, 2350 oxen. On the left side of the rear-wall are represented several scenes from the private life of the deceased. Cattle are being slaughtered, cooks are busy at their work, etc. Above the door leading to the mummy- shaft we see a large altar, adjoining which is a long but much dam- aged inscription. — The smaller tombs in the \icinity are less interesting. Several Coptic inscriptions testify that anchorites found retreats in these tombs during the Christian period. We are now approaching the region which, in the time of Pachomius, was most thickly populated with monks and anchorites. Farther on we pass a tine mountain-mass, which looks especially imposing by afternoon light, and see several thriving villages, often situated close to the river. Deshneh, a steamboat-station on the N. bank. 13 M. from Kasr es-Saiyad, is situated on the ruins of an ancient town. The site of the celehratcd Tabenna, which lay lietweon Hoti (nioapo- lis) and Dendcrah (Tcntyra). must he sinipht for either here or close to Keneh. It belonged to the noine of Teiityra and its Coptic name was Tabenneselt, which may be translated 'place of the Isis palms'. The (ireeks sujiposed that 'nesi" meant •irprjz (nesos) or island, and hence it eonies that the town of Tahennetns, situated on the mainland, is generally spoken of aa the Island of Tabetina. It is said that the Arabs name it Oeziret el-Oharb or Isle of the ^\'est, l)ut no support of this could be found on the spot. St. Jerome relates that at the end of the 4th cent, no fewer than 50,000 monks assembled in the district of Tabenncsus to celebrate the Easter Festival. All of these followed the rule of Pachomius and be- longed either to the chief monastery (Monasterium Waju.s) or to the smaller c(tn(jbia, iaurue, and anchorite cells dependent on it. It is mar- vellous that the t-'mjile of Dendcrah (p. 80), so close to this community of fanatics, should have been left almost intact. Perhaps the explanation is that at the time the monks settled here the strife about dof,'mas aroused much more excitement in the eccleaiastical breast than the dislike of heathen gods that had long since become harmless. 56 M. (17 M. from Deshneh) Keneh (steamer-station), a town with 15,400 inhab., lies on theE. bank of the Nile at the point where the river, suddenly abandoning its nortliward course, turns to the W., almost at right angles. It is the capital of the fifth Mudiriyeh of Upper Egypt, which is597sq. M. in extent and contains a population , of 406,858. The Greek name of the town was KaivTj-o'/.tcor 'Newtown'. toKeneh. KENEH. 5. Route. 73 At the tiiue of tlie pilgrimage to Mecca Koneh presents a very lively scene, as it is then frequented by large numbers of the participators in that great religious picnic. The spiritual and material wants of the pious Hedjadj are catered for by six spacious mosques, nume- rous coffee-houses, and a large number of places of amusement, among the attractions of which Egyptian dancing-girls are prominent. For the rest Keneh differs little in general character from the other towns of Upper Egypt. The traveller should not fail, however, to see the most valuable piece of land near Keneh, which is about one Feddan (3500 sq.yds.) in area and yields an excellent variety of potter's clay that has made Keneh pottery, like that of Assiut, famous throughout the country. Keneh has a special reputation for its Kuhd (pi. of Kulle), or cool porous water-bottles, and for its Ballas and Z7r, large vessels used in carrying, purifying, and preserving water. In some of the early Egyptian inscriptions figures of the Ballas and Zir appear as distinctive symbols, in the exact forms in which they are made to-day. Hundreds of thousands of these clay vessels are annually exported from Keneh in boats of a primitive but not unpractical description, constructed for the purpose , in which they are piled up in pyramidal form, fastened together with ropes made of the bast of the date-palm and attached to rectangular frames. A trustworthy report fixes the number sent away in 1860 at 900,000. Considerable activity is also manifested in the manu- facture of kiln-dried pottery, generally either red or black, used for chibouk-heads, bottles, pitchers, vases, drinking-vessels, etc., of every size and shape. The almost invariably graceful forms and tasteful decorations of these utensils may be unreservedly set down as a bequest from ancient Egypt. 6. Routes through the Eastern Desert. Keneh is a place of some importance as the starting-point of the caravans traversing the Arabian desert to Koser (p. 77} and as an em- porium of the trade of Upper Egypt with the coast-districts of the Red Sea. It consequently afl'ords a good opportunity of making a short and comparatively eai^y desert journey, as the interesting excursion to Koser can be made without any very great privation or danger. The caravan- route leads via llanv'undt., traversing the rocky Arabian Desert, which is not only of great scenic grandeur but also full of interest for the natu- ralist and the archteologist. Koser, a port on the Red Sea, is about 110 M. from Keneh, and the journey can be made comfortably in four, or at most five days. These descrt-roules were important even in antiquity for the trade with the seaports and the land of Punt (Arabia) on the one side and the valuable quarries in the mountains of the Arabian Desert on the other. Spices and other costly products were sent across the desert to Keneh, at first on donkey-back and afterwards on camels, while green breccia and several varieties of granite were sent down to the sea in return. The most important points on the Red .Sea, named from N. to S., were ilijos Ilormos (now Ahu Sar el-KibU), in the latitude of Jlonfalut; Leukos Limen, now Ko^er ; and Ber'eiiike, in the latitude of .Vssufm. The route from Keneh to Myos Hormos leads to the N.E., and a short detour may be made through the Wddi Faiireh, with its granite-quarries, and past 74 Route (1. BIR 'AMBAR. Eastern Desert. the Roman town and colnny of Iludreuimi or Fom Trnjanuf, wliicli lies in the latitude of Kfiii, aliout I) days' .journey from Keneli. Oiitsiilc tlie walls lie a temiile and other biiildiiiyis, and sonic lar^e columns and (jrcck inscriptions have been found in the hrs. from Keneh, where the lofty palms and shady sycamores and niimospe ofler a inost inviting halting-place. The large caravanserai was erected at the expense of an Ibrahim I'asha for the use of the Koser caravans and the Mecca pilgrims. The structure comprises several separate buildings, covered with dome-shaped roofs and surrounded by courts and colon- nades. It has no owner and is free to everyone to use as he likes. As nothing is done to keep it in repair, it is rapidly falling into decay, like most of the Oriental buildings of the kind, and threatens soon to be a complete ruin. In the deserts of Upper Egypt the temperature at night is so mild, even in winter, that stnmg and healthy persons may safely sleep in the open air if warmly wrapped up; and for various reasons this is preferable to a ni;;ht in the caravanserai. Those, however, who prefer to take their chances in the interior should not fail to make the most minute examination of the room in which they intend to sleep, in order to clear out the vermin with which it is almost certain to be infested; scorpions and venomous snakes are by no means uncommon visitants. it is the duty of the JOttddr, or guide in charge of the caravan, to see that everyone ami everything are ready lietimes in the morning, so that a sufliciently early start may be made to cover the ground allotted to each days march, lie is held responsible for the safe conduct of the entire party, and e.xpects implicit obedience to his marching orders. We soon turn our backs on the verdant green district bordering the Nile and enter the liarren desert, almost entirely destitute of vegetation, which lies between the great river and the coast of the Ived Sea. The first part of the route is vcr.v} unedifying. We advance steadily, ascending almost irapcrceptibl.v, through a monotonous plain, intersected in all directions by small undulating heights. All around us extends the interminable yellowish gray, sun-bleaehed rocks of the desert; not a trace of organic life is visible, not a single green tree or shrub. At the hill of el-Karn ('the horn'), which rises to the left of ibe caravan- route, about midway between Bir 'Amhar and Lakitrih^ the road from Keneh is joined by that from Kn/i. Not Keneh but J\optot, the modern K\ift, a little to the S., was the starting-point of the mad constructed by the ancient Egyptians for the traffic between the Thchaid and the Hed Sea. From this point onwards we therefore follow one of the most ancient trading routes Eastern Desert. LAKliTAH. 6. Route. 75 kiuivvn. From the hieroglyphics on the rocks and temple-walls at Ilama- mat we learn that the ancient Koptos road formed a link, as early as 3000 years before our era, in the intercourse carried on between the Nile valley and Arabia, via the desert and the sea. We now ride in a S.E. direction through a dreary district, in which the only variety is afforded by an occasional Mohwala or Mahalta. The Jlobwalas are simply spaces covered with camel's dung, easily distin- guished from (he surrounding soil by their darker colour and their smooth, cement-like surface. They occur on every great caravan route at regular intervals and are of the utmost importance as sign-posts showing the road. Hence no khabir or camel driver passes one of these places without giving his camels an opportunity to contribute their quota to the maintenance of tlic Moliwala. The Mahaitas or halting-places are 7>/2-9 M. apart and serve also as measures of distance. The swift-running camels take their name from the number of mahattas they can reach in one day. Thus a camel which can cover 10 mahattas, i.e. 75-90 M., in one day is known as an 'Ashari (runner of 'ten'). Other milestones of the desert are afforded by the skeletons of camels, horses, and asses, and by small cairns above the remains of unfortunate travellers who have [lost their lives in this dreary waste. TheKo.ser caravans usually pass the second night in the village of la- ketah (9 hrs. from Kuft and BIr 'Ambar, I2V2 hrs. from Keneh), which is chiefly inhabited by 'Abahdeh; it is also a halting-place for caravans com- ing in the opposite direction. The small oasis has two wells, five palms, a small piece of tilled ground, a few mud-huts, and a half-ruined Arab cara- vanserai. It is a characteristic specimen of a desert-village and oilers much to interest the stranger. It is a place of great comfort and convenience to the traveller, as its resources include the materials for a solid and satisfying supper in the shape of mutton, goat's flesh, poultry, eggs, etc. The dogs here are great thieves, and care should be taken to I'cave nothing within their reach at night. Near the chief well are some fragments of a Greek inscription of the reign of Tiberius Claudius. The first Roman military station, the Hydreuma, now called by the Arabs Kasr el-Bendt. ('castle of the maidens'), is 3 hrs. from Lakefah. It lies to the S. of the caravan roiite and forms an oblong 125 ft. in length and 101 ft. in breadth. The wall inclosing the oblong, formed of layers of sandstone without cement, was 6V2 ft. high. Within the wall lie 20 small chambers opening on a rectangular inner court, the only exit from wliich is on the N. side. No water is now procurable here. To the N. of the path, opposite the ruin of the Hydreuma, stands a rock of sand- stone with numerous graffiti in Greek, Coptic, Arabic, Himyaritic, and Siuaitic characters. At a di.stance of about 2 hrs. from the Hydreuma the rocks close in and form a winding pass or gateway named Mutrak es-Seldvi. On the Gehcl Abu Kii'eh ('father of the elbow'), the rock at the entrance to the pass, are more graffiti, older than those at Kasr el-Benat; one of them contains the name of the religious reformer Amenhotep IV. We now approach the fine rocky scenery through which the second part of the Ko.ser route leads. In the distance, to the right, rise the S. foot-hills of the Ilamdindl Mis., while nearer and in front are the S.W. spurs. Through- out the whole of the Nile valley from Cairo toSPhiltc the traveller en- counters no such picturesque scenery as he sees in traversing the magni- ficent rocky formations of this part of the Egyptian-Aral lian desert. Even the imposing granite cliffs of the Shellal islands and the quarries of Assuan pale before the rocky mass of the Hamdmdt^ rising to a height of 4200 ft. The outliers of the range consist of a yellow sandstone, followed by the red 'Nubian' sandstone, resembling that of the Black Forest, while the great central mass is composed of granite. Beyond the Blutrak es-Selam the hills again diverge. Among them, to the N. of the caravan-route, lies a second Roman station, with a filled- in well. About 2 hrs. farther on the hills of reddish-yellow sandstone give place to loftier and almost black hills of breccia, through the valleys of which, now wide and now narrow, the caravan [winds its way. Begin- 76 Route 6. WADI IIAMAMAT. Eastern Desert. niiij; with tlie black uiuundiins and atretcliing among theui fiiralong way is the Wadi Hamamat, where the green breccia was quarried in the most ancient times. In 1 hr. more we reach the Ilir Ilamdmiit, a well Kii't. in diameter, witli a stone coping. Near the well are the remains of a Roman wall, and between tlie two are live unlinished sarcophafii. some completely shattered. Near the well begins a series of short grafliti, including an inscription of Phra em }ieb, a siipcrintemlcnt of labourers, and represent- ing Ammon with a ram's head bearing the Atef crown. The cartouche of Seti II. is also met with. Aliout 1 lir. farther on are longer inscrip- tions. In the first a miner named Art en beiiipe is mentioned and the I is gi symbol of the crow-bar | is given. The numerous inseripti(ms of the old empire f(mnd here, belonging to the 5th, 6th, 11th. 12th, and 13th Dynasties, have been published by Lepsins (Part II. of his 'Dcnkmiiler') and have recently been completed by W. GoleiiischelT. They begin with kings Tetkara-Assa and Unas of the 5th, and Vscrkara and Pepi of the Cth Dynasty. The most interesting of all is the inscription of the 8th year of Sankh knra, in which a military cxpeditinn from Koptos to Koser is re- corded; it fiives the names of the stations, mentions the digging of two cisterns, and relates the passage from Tuii (the early name of Koser) to the 'Holy Land' (i.e. Arabia). The name of Rohannu also occurs. Among the later inscriptions of the 20th Dynasty may be mentioned one of the 3rd year of Ramses CDcnkmiiler'' of Lepsius, III, 219; transl. in Rrug.sch's 'History of Kgypt', Kn;;. transl., Vol. 2, pp. 175 ct seq.). We learn from this inscription that in the part of this desert named Rohannu a special district of the namamat Mts. J known as /-Vx a/v\/w\ || a^aaaa Pa tu en Oekhen, or the 'Bekhen ... -I CD _ -- Mts.', so called from the Bekhen l Ta-rir ^^^^^ ® or *'°°° ^ ' Ta en ta-rir, 'the town of the district enclosed by ramparts'. From the latter are derived the Greek Tentyra and tlie modern Denderah. We follow the bank of the Nile towards the N., through palm- tree.s, and then proceed to the W. through well-tilled fields, pass- ing (right) a farm-enclosure guarded by yelping dogs; or we may ride at once towards theW. in the direction of tlie Gate of Augustus [p. 88) and proceed thence to the N., passing a door with unfilled cartouciies, to the N. entrance, where the cards of admission (see Introd., p.xiv) are shown. The wall enclosing the temple is formed of Nile bricks, and there is another entrance on the W. side. The total enclosure is 317 yds. long and 306 yds. wide, and besides the large temple of Hathor contains a small sanctuary dedicated to Isis and a so-called 'birth-house' (see below). The N. door, which is in a straight line with the temple, is only 15" to the E. of N. ; but in the temple-inscriptions it is always spoken of as the E. entrance, while the long sides of the temple are called the N. and S. sides. In the following description we follow the true geographical posi- tion. The N. gate was built under the Emp. Domitian, who is here named Germanicus. On the side next the temple appears the name of Nerva Trajanus, also with the epithets of Germanicus and Dacicus. From the N. gate a modern brick passage leads to the temple. To the left of this passage lies a building deep-sunken in the de- bris and wanting its front. Round it ran a colonnade, the capitals of which, with the dwarf-like figure of the god Besa, project from the sand. The remains include a rather large vestibule (33 ft. by I6Y2 ft.), a long central room, two narrow side-rooms, some small 80 Route 7. DENDERAII. nathor chambers, and the fragments of a staircase (to the right). This building is dedicated to the birtli of Jlorus, witli whom the son of each successive monarch is compared. Similar Birth-Houses (Egypt. pa-mes), called byChampollion Mameisi(Copt., 'place of birth'), occur in many other Egyptian temples (pp.253, 289, etc.). The cartouches of Autokrator Kisres, which llathor presents to Ho- rus Sam taui, have been supposed to refer to Augustus ; but the fact that the latter had no son makes this very doubtful. The 'birth- house' also contains the names of Trajan and Hadrian, to whom it probably owes its existence. The paintings represent the care of the young Horus, who is nursed ami ministered to by goddesses and women witli cows' heads. — We now proceed to the temple, either by ascending over the heaps of rubbisli, or by returning to the N. gate and walking thence in a straight direction. **Temple of Hathor at Denderah. This interesting and much-admired building was dedicated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus. The Portico (PI. iC), which is sup- ported by 24 columns, is 139 ft. in breadth. Each of the columns has a capital formed of four heads of Hatlior, with cows' ears, surmounted by a house, in reference to the meaning of Hathor, Hut {i.e. house) of Horus. Tlie columns next tlie entrance show an open door. The six columns in the front row, three on each side of the entrance, are united by balustrades. Tlie rubbisli round the temple reaches to the balustrades in front and nearly to the roof on the E. side ; hence the floor of the temple appears sunken and is reached by a flight of wooden steps. Originally, however, the temple stood level with the ground, and its present appear- ance, like that of the temples of Esneh andEdfu, is due to the ac- cumulated rubbish of centuries. In accordaTice with the plan of other temples, a colonnade and a pylon should stand in front of this portico; but perhaps the means to add these were not forthcoming. The date of the temple is given by a Greek inscription of three lines, which runs round the cornice on the exterior of the building and reads as follows: rriEP. ATTOKPATOPOS. TIBHPIOT. KAI2AP02. NEOT. SEBASTOr. eKor. XEliASTtir. Yior. eiii. ataot. ayia- Aior. N()i: TPrxAMiidV. i:rPATnn)rNTOx. 01. AnO. THS. MIITP onOAEQS. KAI. TOT. NOMOT. TO. Ml'dNAON. AtPPd^El- TIII. HEAI. MErinill. KAI. TOIX. STNNAOIS. BEOI^. L [K. TIBJEPIOV. KAI2AP0[S A8TP KA] 'Under the rule of the iMiip. Tiberius, and under the prefect Aulus y a ij ij y y ■' Temple. DENDEKAH. 7. Route. 81 Avilliris Flaccus, tlie governor Aulas Fulvius Crispus. and the dis- trict-governor Sarapion Trycliambos, the inhabitants of the capital and of the nome dedicated the Pronaos to the great goddess Aphro- dite and her fellow-gods, in the twentieth (?) year of the Emp. Ti- herius . . . .' An inscription recently found by Diimichen on the E. side of the temple informs us that this outer wall of the temple was decorated in the second year of the Enip. Tiberius Claudius (42 A.D.). There are, however, many representations of the Enip. Nero both inside and outside the temple. The crypts of the temple date from the reigns of Ptolemy X., Ptolemy XI., and Ptolemy XIII. (Sotcr II. ; Ptolemy Alexander ; Neos Dionysos). The inscriptions running round the temple refer to Ptolemy XVI. Ci'esarion and the Emp. Augustus. On the exterior of the rear-wall of the temple ap- pears Ptolemy Kisres, accompanied by Cleopatra VI. and the little CiBSarion ; the inscription is Ptulmis, surnamed Kisres. In both cases the Csesarion referred to is apparently the son of C;esar and Cleopatra. The temple would thus seem to owe its present form to the last of the Ptolemies and the first Roman emperors. It is, how- ever, obvious that the site was previously occupied by older temple buildings , going back to the earliest period of Egyptian history. King Pepi of the 6th Dynasty is repeatedly represented in the crypts. In one of these crypts (No. 9) the ancient building plan of Den- derah is mentioned twice. The first of these mentions occurs in the description of an excursion of the goddess to Edfu on the first of Epiphi : 'The great building-plan (senti) of Ant (Denderah) was fo!ind written in ancient characters on hide, of the time of the suc- cessors of Horns. Found in the interior of the wall of the royal palace in the time of King Pepi'. Another passage reads: 'The great plan of Denderah, a restoration of the monument made by King Ramenkheper (Tutmes III.}, after it was found in ancient characters of the time of King Khufu'. The priests of Tentyra thus ascribed the foundation of their temple to Khufu and Pepi. There are, however, stones bearing the names of Amenemha I., Tut- mes III., Tutmes IV., Ramses II., and Ramses III., all of whom probably either built or restored parts of the old temple. If we compare the temple of Denderah with a similar structure of the earlier period, such as the temple of Abydos or the great national sanctuary ofKarnak, we find it not less beautiful in its own way, though of course far from competing with these gigantic structures in magnificence or extent. Its chief characteristics are a flue symmetry of proportions and dignified adaptation to its pur- poses. A happy blending of Egyptian seriousness with Grecian grace, Avhich meets us unmistakably at every turn, has a peculiarly pleasing eifect, and we feel much more at home in the halls of the Hathor of Tentyra than in the great hall of the god of Thebes, with its forest of gigantic columns. Neither the figures nor the inscrip- tions sculptured on the walls compare in masterly execution with Baedekee's Upper Egypt. 6 82 Roule 7. DENDERAH. Uathor those ill tlie tuiubs of tho ancient kingdom or with those peculiar to the times of a Seti or a Tutiues ; but we cannot refuse our ad- miration even to these products of later Egyptian art. Here and there (as in several chambers of the upper story) we meet speci- mens of hasty and poor workmanship; but as a rule the sculpture of Denderah is pleasing and harmonious in style and executed with a care that docs not overlook the smallest detail. The eye is uni- formly pleased by the harmony of the whole with its details aud by the great variety of composition which manifests itself in spite of the prescribed form to which the artist was confined. Neither the general architectural scheme of the temple as a whole nor the style of the details shows any essential variation from those that may be traced in the earlier Egyptian temples. The first apartment, here as elsewhere, is a handsome Hypostyle Halt (PI. E), open in front, with 24 massive columns supporting the roof (comp. p. 93). Next follows a room with six columns (PI. D), with three apartments to the left (xviii, xrx, xx) and three to the right (xxi, xxir, xxiii), from the last of which (xxiii) a passage leads to the festal chambers beside Hall B. The next room (PI. C), with no columns, has apartments xvi and xvii on the left. A fourth hall (PI. 1>), adjoined on the left by a single apartment (xii) and on the right by the suite of three festal chambers (xrii, XIV, xv), leads to the Adytum (PI. A) , a long narrow room in which the sacred boats were kept. I'rom tho passage (PI. a) which encircles the latter, entrances lead into eleven side-chambers (left IV, V, VI, VII, III, II, right viir, ix, xi, x), which are grouped round the main chamber (PI. I) behind room A. There are also a number of secret passages (crypts), constructed in the hollow wall of the temple on the E., W., and S. sides. Those passages, which arc diflkult of access, are in three stories, one above another (comp. p. 96). Finally from the central hall C, doors lead on the right and left to the two stairs which ascend to the roof of the temple (comp. pp. 91, 97). The Egyptians had special naiiies for each hall and side-chamber, for each corridor and staircase, for each door and window, in fact for each part, great or small, of the more or loss complicated temples. In not a few cases these names explain tho use of the different rooms; but the only certain information as to the special nature of the various apartments is obtained from tho Inscriptions, which are arranged as a kind of ornamental border above and below the paintings on the wall, much like the borders socwi som(^tiiiios on old- fashioned wall-papers. These inscriptions, which are of the greatest importance both for tlu^ history of architecture and for the explana- tion of tho temple-cult, usually have their contents arranged in the same order. The iianio of the king, with all his titles and official epithets, is first mentioned, followed by the statement that he built, repaired, completed, or adorned such aud sucli a room, or such and Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 83 such a staircase, the name of which is in each case given, followed by as full a description of the room in question and of what took place there, as space will allow. Prof. Diimichen uncovered the inscription at the foot of the exterior wall of the temple in 1875 (p. 97), and found that, as at Edfu, the names and dimensions of the chambers lying to the north were inscribed on the N. side, and on the S. side those of the chambers lying; to the south. He has published the inscription with a translation t. In our description, we begin with the Hypostyle Hall or *Khent Hall (PI. E). The first large hall of an Egyptian temple frequently bore the name fwT\ Khent, i.e. front room, as is the case here, at Edfu, at Philae, and elsewhere. It has several other names as well. Apparently with reference to the astronomical representations which adorn both halves of the ceiling, it Is frequently named in the in- scrlptions \, o ll cli ^Nut usekh ur V i.e. Great Hall of o ^^ ^ ^ the Goddess Nut, who as the symbol of the vault of heaven was re- presented as a tall woman bending her face towards the earth and letting her arms hang down f? )\. A colossal representation of this figure is met with twice on the ceiling of the hypostyle room at Denderah, and it is repeated twice more, in the apartment marked XV. on the plan and in the central Osiris-room on the N. side of the temple-roof. In the two last instances it occupies the entire surface of the ceiling. Astronomical reprMMitations, whether simply golden stars scattered promiscuously on a blue ground, or actual copies of the constellations as seen at some particular time, have been adopted as a suitable ceiling-decoration in nearly every Egyp- tian temple and tomb. The two names above given are by far the commonest for this first room, but it is also called 'the seat of Osiris, Horns, and Isis', and it is named in the inscriptions 'the dwelling of Hathor, the house of the sistrum-playing, the house in which the tambourine is sounded, the seat of the rapture of joy, the birth- place of the celestial goddess Nut'. The hall is 143 ft. broad, 80 ft. deep, and about 50 ft. high. On festal occasions the imago of the goddess was conveyed in her boat to this Hall of Heaven, to meet there the sun-god, her father. The decorative designs in this room chiefly consist, after the ancient Egyptian custom, of representations of the royal builders of the temple. The Roman emperors Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and Nero are in turn depicted, each bearing some dedicatory gift for Hathor or some other of the gods worshipped at Denderah. The central wall-spaces between the columns to the right and left of the main portal are each occupied with four designs, referring to the t BaugescMchte des Denderatempels, Strassburg, 1S77. 6* 84 Route 7. DENDERAH. Hathor eutraiico of the lulev into the sanctuary and to the ceremony of incense, to which he must submit in the first chamber according to the prescribed ritual. In the first we seethe king (Nero) quitting his palace, preceded by five banners with sacred figures, while the high-priest (named Aiiniut-f) otYers incense before him. In the second design, Horus and Thoth sprinkle the king with the symbols of life; in the third, the goddesses of the south (Nekhebl and ol' the north (Udz) present him witli the white crown and the crown 'Nefert' ; in the fourth and last, the king is conducted before Hathor by the gods Month of Thebes and Tum of lleliopolis. Admission into the temple proper was not granted to him until after this cere- mony had been gone through, the sacred garment assumed, and the purification by incense and holy water completed. The represen- tations referring to these, and the explanatory inscriptions, are quite in the same manner as thoso wo have already noted in the earlier temples of the time of Tutmes and Kamses. The sculptured ornamentation on the ceiling, dealing with astronomical subjects, is divided into a W. and an E. half. The figures in the W. section are turned towards the N. (outside), those o f the other to the S. (inside). Each section is di\i(lei.l into tlnec bands, most of which consist of two or more rows. The exterior bands of each section correspond to each other, as do also the central and inner bands. Between the two sections is another band, containing 10 sun-discs and 11 vultures, explained by Prof. Lauth as referring to the '21st year of the reign of Tiberius. — The exterior bands, which are embra"WlH^(^aIl figure of the goddess of the heavens, contain the twelve si^^of the Zodiac in their upper rows; to the right those of the N. sky (lion, serpent instead of the virgin, balances, scorpion, archer, goat), to the left or S., those of the S. sky (water- carrier, fishes, ram, bull, twins, crab). In this row appear also the principal constellations (Orion, Sirius, Sothis) and five planets (Saturn, Mars, Jupiter, Venus, and Mercury). Mingled with the other figures are the gods of the twelve hours of night, on the E. side in ascending ordiT (1 to XII}, and on tlie W. siile in descending order. The second rows of the exterior bands each contain 18 ships, with the 'Decani" or presidents of the weeks, mentioned elsewhere in other inscriptions. This long series begins in the W. section and ends in the E. se(!tion. The second bands, both on the right and left, consist of two rows each. At the four ends of the upper rows are the four Winds, with expanded wings, which are adjoined on tlie right (next the entrani'o) by four figures of gods referring to Ra, aiul on the left by four similar figures referring (o Tum, the god of evening. Then f(dlow8 a scries of 'Decani', beginning in the \V. and con- tinued in the E. section, consisting of the above-mentioned thirty- six 'Decani' arranged in twelve groups of three, each conducted by a president usually in the form of a serpent. The lower rows of the central bands contain, on the right (W.) the twelve hours of the Temple. DENDERAn. 7. Roule. 85 night, on the left (N.) the twelve hours of the day, each with their eponymous divinities. The interior band on the W. side exhihits three designs re- ferring to the moon, which is here represented as ^^^ 'uza', eye. In the first are the 14 days of the waning moon, In the second the 14 days of the waxing moon, represented by 14 divinities ascending a flight of steps, while the victorious Thoth appears as a fifteenth divinity beyond the moon-disc. Finally appears (Jsiris as the moon- god, seated with Isis and Nephthys in a boat, floating above the symbol of the sky \, o, which is supported by four female forms. — In the E. section the interior band exhibits the course of the sun- disc tlirough the 12 hours of the day, represented by 12 boats. In each disc appears the figure of the divinity to which the particular hour was sacred. On the W. side of the hall, between the second and third row of columns (to the right of the entrance), and on the E. side be- tween the third and fourth row (on the left) are Side-Entrances, through which the sacrificial olTerings used to be brought into the hall (com. p. 88). Of the three Prosekos Halls which we next enter, by far the largest is the hexastyle first hall, the ■ — Hall of the Appearance (PI. D), called in the inscriptions uselch kha or Hall of the Appearance, and 'Hall of the Appearance of Her Higliness", i.e. Ilathor, tlie golden-rayed.^^ Wl inscription at the foot of the external ^il gives the measurement of this hall as 26 ells square, which closely coincides with its actual size, 4572^'- square. On festal days the image of tlie mighty sun-goddess was carried in so- lemn procession from its place iii the holy of holies, and was not seen by the multitude as- sembled in flie vestibule until it reached this hall, when the lofty double doors were thrown open. Hence probably the name of the haU. It is a remarkable fact that except in the Kheiit Hall, the secret passages, and Room xx (p. iSS) , the cartouches of the kings in all the interior rooms of the temple remain empty. In Room xx the accompanying royal cartouches are found : 'Lord of the rulers, chosen by Ptah', and 'Kaisaros, ever-living, beloved by Ptah and Isis'. The latter, which is also found on the exterior W. wall of the temple, probably refers to Augustus, though the same designation was also used for Caligula, Claudius, and Nero. On the E. exter- nal wall of the temple at Denderah and in the temple of Isis at Phi- 86 Route 7. PENDERATT. Hathor lae , Augustus is constantly uulicated by tlie acfompanying car- touches ^Autokralnr Kisres'. The temple was probably built in the unsettled times of the later Ptolemies, and the priests were there- fore left in doubt whether to All in the cartouches with the name of Ptolemy or of Augustus. The representations on the walls and columns, many of which well deserve special attention, exhibit here also the Egyptian ruler worshipping llathor or some other of the divinities revered in her temple. They illustrate several most remarkable ceremonies, which the king performed according to the prescribed ritual in presence of the images of the gods in the temple. We have seen reason to be- lieve that the sculptured decorations of all the temple-chambers were executed about the end of tlie period of the Ptolemies and the beginning of the Roman empire. (The scTilptures in some of the chambers in the sunk-floor and in several of the higher secret pas- sages, date from the reigns of Ptolemies X., XI., and XIII. ) Yet in spite of that, the entire adornment on the wallsis arranged according to early Egyptian patterns ; so that the ceremonies here depicted were not first introduced under the empire, and probably no Roman emperor ever took part in these ceremonies in this temple of Hathor. The walls of the temple at Denderah exhibit exclusively Early Egrjp- tian Manners and Customs. What we here learn are the ceremonies imposed by the priesthood on the early Egyptian monarch who de- sired to worship the goddess. Thus in a representation to the right of tl>c entrance the kii^ appears twice over in the same design. First we see him, clad in a long robe and carrying a staff, entering the hall, preceded by the priest weariiig the panther-skin and sprinkling incense on the burning censer. Next we see him stand- ing before the image of Hathor, his robe laid aside; bending for- ward he goes through the motion of cleaving the earth witli the short hand-plough in his hand , because it was an immemorial custom that the Egyptian king should turn the first sod on the site of a temple. (In the explanatory inscription here, as elsewhere, this ceremony is nanioil '6ai ta\ cleaving of the ground.) The king also smote tlie first blow with the hammer at the laying of the foun- dation-stone, and shaped the first brick for the enclosing walls, which were usually built of unburned bricks of Nile-mud dried in the sun. All these ceremonies performed hy early Egyptian monar<'hs at the foundation of a temple, are here faithfully recorded according to early models, both in visible shape and by explanatory in- scriptions. They are also recorded in the lowest of the four rows on tlie W. and E. exterior walls of the temple. In the temple of Horus at Edfu the king is represented performing similar cere- monies. Another picture, also referring to the founding of a temple, appears on tlie immediatily adjoining wall. Here the king once more appears liefore Hatlior. licaring in his band the building-tool Temple. DENDERAH. 7. linute. 87 khus. The ceremony is named in the inscription ^the Building of the Temple^ ; and the words placed in the mouth of the king and arranged above the Khus run: 'I have built the monument, the great one, as a perfect building to all eternity'. The ceremony represented in the following design also refers to the building of the temple. The king, kneeling before Hathor, is shown shaping the flrst burned brick for the girdle-wall of the temple. As has already been men- tioned in the description of the cult of Hathor, that goddess is fre- quently extolled in the inscriptions at Denderah as the goddess of joy, at whose festival wine flowed freely and the air was fragrant with incense and aU the perfumes of Arabia. Thus, as the inscrip- tions here inform us, the king mingles grains of incense and wine with the material out of which he moulds the brick. On both sides of the portal admitting to the hall are two long inscriptions, each consisting of 14 vertical lines, and containing a list of all the names under which the great Hathor was worshipped at Denderah and else- where in Egypt. This is followed by a list of the chief gods and divine geniuses, those of the temple at Edfu being named in great- est detail ; and finally comes a list of the sacred serpents of Denderah, which were probably not kept in the temple itself, but in the ad- joining sacred groves. We now enter the Side Chambers, of which there are three on each side. All are of the same size, defined in the inscription on the E. external wall as 11 1/3 ells long and 61/2 ells broad. The flrst on the left side fPl. xviii) was called ^ Ast.t, or in the fuller form (shown e.g. on one of the staircase-walls) U 7 ^ ^ c^ Asi.t. The inscriptions here clearly indicate that the incense, so lavishly used at the sacred festivals, was compounded in this room according to strictly observed recipes in which all kinds of sweet- smelling ingredients were employed ; and that the holy oils and ointments for the various ceremonies were also here prepared. We may therefore name this apartment the Temple Laboratory. + All the designs and inscriptions on the four walls of this apartment refer to the incense prepared and preserved here ; to the oils and ointments used in the temple services ; and to the various ingredients of which they were composed. Two seven-lined vertical inscriptions on the two parts of the entrance-wall contain what is to a certain extent a summarized description of the representations on the adjoining walls to the right and left. On each wall are two representations, i.e. four r 1^ t Chemistry derives its name from the land of Ahem , called f © •black land' from the dark colour of its soil. 88 Jioute 7. PENDERAIT. Hathor in all. They exhibit the royal builder of the laboratory worshipping before Hathor, Isis, Hathor with theHonis ofEdfu, and Isis with Ho- rns Samtaui. In two of tlie designs the king is accompanied by one of the lords of the laboratory, once with the divine Master of Anointing Mazet, once with Horus, the lord of the labo- ratory \^ ci , ill the other two, by a goddess and two ram's- headed divinities, who also stand in some relation to the work of the laboratory. 15oth the king and his companions offer some of the costly perfumes of the laboratory to the gods above named. The room next the laboratory (PI. xix) is namod in the inscrip- tions here found simply Sahi, whii-h means 'assembly- room', 'room', 'hall', 'apartment'. An indication as to its former use is afforded by the representations on the walls, which depict the king offering the flrst fruits of the fields, plants, flowers, and fruits, to Hathor and her fellow-divinities. Several times in the accom- panying inscriptions Hathor is extolled as 'she who produces all things', 'the nourishment-giving', 'she who provides food and drink, from whom everything comes tliat heaven bestows or the earth brings forth'. From these representations and inscriptions it may safely be concluded that this room was specially dedicated to the great Hathor as the deity who bestowed life and created and pre- served all things, and that the offerings intended for Hatlior were placed here on her festal day. The next room fPl. xx) is called in the inscriptions „ Her-iib, i.e. 'the inner central room', or the Middle Room, probably because it lay between Hall D and the E. side-entrance of the temple, whi(-h opened into this room (comp. p. )^9, Room xxii, on the opposite side). From the inscriptions we learn that it was used for the reception of the offerings which were brought into the temple by the side-entrance. It has been mentioned above (p. 85) that in a representation in this room (beside the door of exit) the royal cartouches above the monarch worshipping Hathor have been filled in with the official name of Augustus, whereas elsewhere the cartouches are left vacant. On the opposite (W.) side of tlie liall are the side-chambers XXI, XXII, and XXIII. The last two appear from their representations and inscriptions to have been used for precisely the same parposes as th(! corresponding chambers on tljp E. side. 'J'he flrst (I'l. xxi), ho\vev(;r, to the right of the entrance, is shown by its adornment and its inscriptions to have been one of the two treasuries of the Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 89 temple. It bears the name Of -i i.e. Silver Room, and its re- ^ An presentations and inscriptions reter almost exclusively to the pre- cious metals and precious stones, or to various kinds of ornaments for the divine images or other costly temple-iitensils made of the precious materials deposited here. In the doorway the monarch is represented in the act of entering, and presenting to Hathor a jewel-casket, which a hieroglyphic inscription at the monarch's feet states to contain gold, silver, lapis- lazuli, and malachite. The goddess thanks the prince for his offering, with the words: 'I bestow upon thee the mountains to produce for thee stones to be a delight for all to see'. The Marginal Inscriptions afford farther information as to the former use of this room. The lower marginal inscription, in the half running from right to left, is as follows: 'He has built the Silver Chamber for the golden one, as a building for eternity, he has adorned it wilh a mul- titude of stones, with all the wonderful gems of the mountains, so as to use them for all manner of work in the temple of Denderah\ In the other half the inscription reads: 'He has built the lordly abode for the Hathor of Tentyris, as a noble monument for eternity. He has furnished it with precious stones and all the products of the mountains, so as to use them for all manner of work in the Gold Chamber. These were re- quired to make of them the furnishing there, according to the sacred precepts for the execution of the work for the Thrice a day (i.e. for the sacrilicial ceremonies that took place thrice a day). All the noticeable gems are placed in its interior as the threefold beautiful, on both sides of the Princess's silver-chamber, which is furnished with its requirements, according to the precepts of the ancients referring thereto'. The room here and elsewhere named the Gold Chamber is in the central story of the temple, and is entered from the W. staircase. In this room, if we have interpreted the inscriptions aright, were made all kinds of statuettes, necklaces and bracelets for the sacred images, amulets, and other precious articles used in the temple-services, by goldsmiths working according to strictly prescribed rules and under the immediate control of the high priests. Possibly, however, such articles were only repaired here. The lower part of the wall of the silver .chamber is decorated with a representation of considerable geographical importance. At the farther end, on the wall to the right of the entrance, appears the emperor offering 'a golden necklace set with precious stones' to Isis, who is accompanied by Horus, and on the opposite wall the emperor again appears with a similar ornament before Hathor and the sun-god Horus-Samtaui. In each case the monarch is followed by thirteen men carrying offerings, all of whom are typical repre- sentatives of foreign tribes, some from the mountain-districts of Upper and Lower Nubia, some from the districts lying to the E. and W. of the Nile valley. The name of the home of each is in- scribed over his head, and over the casket or vase which each bears in his hands appears the name of its contents, among which are silver, gold, electrum, malachite, lapis-lazuli, mineral dye-stuffs, and other precious products of the mineral kingdom. The second room on the right or W. (PI. xxii) shares with Room XX fp. 88) the name Middle Room., because it has two en- 90 Route 7. DENDERATI. Hathor trances, one from Hall D, the other from without. A(:cor(liiig to tlie exterior marginal inscription this was the room set apart for the libations, and tlie door from the outside is named in an inscription on its exterior, 'the portal for the entrance of the priest of the libations, with the ewer for the Mistress of the gods'. This room also has an interesting geographical representation on the lower part of the wall, in wliidi seven water-districts of Lower Kgypt, conducted by the ruler of Lower Esypt, are seen approaching Hathor and Ilorus. — The third room (I'l. xxiii) on this side Is named in the marginal inscriptions 'the room for the Mistress in the town of the House of Hathor', 'the room of the hall that lies behind the hall of the altar', and 'the divine hall of the Golden One, the daughter of the sun, (lying) on the left side, where the left stair- case ( is situated)'. The chief exit from this room leads into Hall I), while another smaller door (to the left of the entrance) admits to a narrow passage communicating at one end with the Hall of the Altar (PI. (!), and at the other with thii Staircase (p. 91) leading licuce to the roof. Farther on this passage leads to the 'Chief Festal Koom' (I'l. XIII ; comp. p. 94). Mariette included Room xxrii in the suite of festal chambers, because it has direct communication with the festal Hall xiii and Rooms xiv and xv lying behind the latter. Proceeding now in our course through the temple of Hathor, we next enter the central Prosekos Hall, or Hall of the Altar (PL C) ^ D©D as it is termed in the inscriptions || oTl b^ . It is about ILjH^ D X 4.0 ft. wide and 18 ft. deep. The E. inscription on the external tumple-wall states that the ceremonies of the 'offering of the divine tilings' (sacrifices) were carved in this room, along with the gods of the sacrilli-ial altar; and the W. inscription names it the 'resting- place of the Mistress of the Goddesses'. The inscriptions on the upper and lower margins afford additional information as to the orginal purpose of the room, its decorations, and the festivals cele- brated within it. The upper inscription, in the half running from right to left, is as follows: 'He has built the Hall of the Altar for tlie Prim-ess adorned with the vulture and the Urseus-crown, the wise goddess. It resembles heaven, with its lord the sun-god. He has richly loaded the altar for the revered goddess within it. — The gods arc carveil within it, as is seemly; the sacred offerings are laid at tlie foot of her throne with the ceremonies appropriate to tiic cult of Hathor. The names of the gods and the names of tho plare are inscribed on one of the walls in it, and tlie serpent-deities (if Denderah are likewisi' recounted within it'. The last sentence refers to a list beside the door to the side-room xviii, which re- counts the names of the temple of Denderah and its cliief rooms, the deities worshipped thc^re alonj: witli Hiithor. and the titles of the Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Rotite. 91 priests and priestesses ; details by name the sacred ponds, groves, trees and serpents of tlie temple-enclosure, and the sacred hoats of Hathor used at the festivals ; mentions the day of the chief festival at Denderah ; and concludes with the name of the temple-domains and that of the territory behind it in the nome of Tentyris. The representations on the walls correspond to the marginal inscriptions. Thus over the portal by which we enter is a double representation of the ruler of Egypt. In one case he stands before the altar of Hathor, in the other before that of Isis, performing the ceremonies of offering incense and libation. This he does in his capacity as chief pontiff, as the accompanying inscription implies: 'The sun, the son of the sun (the emperor Augustus), as priest of the incense ('lord at the seat of fragrance'), offering incense to his mother, and as priest of the libations, holding the vessel of libation'. The rear- wall opposite bears several representations of the monarch express- ing his homage in offerings to Hathor, who is accompanied by Horus or her son Ahi. The first side-door, to the left of the entrance to Hall 0, admits us to a narrow Ante-room (PI. xvii), named Staircase-Room, in the inscriptions. At the farther end are four steps, beyond which a door, opening on the right, leads into the large Stairca.se Hall, whence an easy stone staircase ascends straight to the roof. This hall is in complete darkness as it is roofed over and admits no light from the sides. Another ascent to the roof is found on the opposite or W. side of Hall 0, reached by a door to the right of the entrance to that room, and also by a smaller approach from Room xxiii (comp. p. 90). This second ascent is not by a straight and dark flight of steps, but by a kind of spiral staircase, with ten rectangular bends to the right, lighted by means of openings piercing the wall diagonally and widening towards the interior. The representations and inscriptions in the ante-rooms to the right and left and on the walls of both staircases refer exclusively to the entrance to the halls and the ascent of the staircases on the Great Neui Year's Festival. On that occasion the ceremonial procession of the priests with the images of Hathor and her fellow-gods, after completing the circuit of the lower rooms, ascended to the roof of the temple, in order that 'the goddess Ha- thor might be united with the beams of her father Ra, on this noble day, the festival day of the beginning of the year'. The most comprehensive idea of the festival is given by the representations on tlie two walls (each about llo ft. long) of the straight East Staircase, which begins from Room xvii. The left wall presents us with a view of the procession ascending from the lower rooms of the temple, so that it is advisable to begin our inspection at the top of the staircase. An explanatory inscription of 13 lines closes with the following words : 'She comes at her beautiful festival, 92 Route i: DENDERAH. Haihor the festival of the beginning of the year, that her spirit may unite in the heavens with her father (the sun-god Ra). The goddesses are fes- tive, the goddesses are joyful, when the right eye unites with the left eye. She rests on her throne in the place for heholding the sun" s disc, when the bright one unites with the bright one. Her cycle of gods is at her right hand and at her left; slie protects her be- loved son, the sun (i.e. not the sun-god but his earthly represen- tative, the reigning king of Upper and Lower Egypt/. The above- mentioned union of the right eye with the left eye, \.t. of the sun with the moon, at which the New Years festival at Denderah took place, is one of the astronomical epochs of the calendar veiled in mythological language by the Egyptian priests. We next dis- cern upon poles the images of a jackal and of an ibis, the sym- bols of Anubis as guide of the dead and of the god Thoth, which are described in an eight-lined vertical inscription , after which the explanatory inscription is closed by live more lines, as follows: '0 Hathor, thou ascendest the staircase in the town of tlie double- sweet life, in order to gaze upon thy father on the day oftlie New Year's festival. Thou betakest thyself to the roof of thy temple in company with thy cyrle of gods. The Bukenkenu of Denderah are before thee , to avert liarm from thy path , to purify thy way, to cleanse thy road from evil , at the double union in the sun's room on thy temple-roof, whose doors are opened to thee. Thou takest thy place on thy throne opposite the sun-god with his beams, at thy sides thy terrible attendant spirits on the seats of Hathor's Out- look on the Sun's Disc (a name of the temple of Denderah). An- cestral mother of the gods, thou unitest thyself with tliy father Ra in thy festal chamber {i.e. probably the small kiosque-like pavilion on the roof of the tcmplej". The above-mentioned Hukcnkenu were images borne upon poles — small figures of gods and !.;od- desses, sacred animals, and other symbolical objects — which wore carried in front of solemn proi;essioiis. Then follow representations of the persons t;iking part in the procession ; the king and queen of Egypt, and priests and priestesses, some carrying the Piukenkenu (thirteen in number) or liolding the prescribcil offerings in their hands, and some personating different gods and goddesses, and wear- ing masks representing lions, bulls, oxen, etc. Anions the latter may be pointed out the lion-headed person (No. 16 in order), walking behind the chief master of ceremonies who is chanting a hymn en- graved on the tablet in his hand; the priestess (No. 24), bearing a cow's head as representing the milk -yielding Isis-cow, 'who nourislies the mothers with what comes from her breasts'; and the two priests (Nos. 2S, 29) with bulls' heads, representing Apis and Mnevis, the two sa<'red bulls of Memphis .nnd Uoliopolis. Tlie rear of the procession is brought up by men bearing tlie sacred shrines with the divine images. Eirst comes the shrine with the chief image at Denderah, that of the goddess Hathor, then tlie ten shrines of her Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 93 fellow-gods, among whom were three other images of Hathor, four of Uorus, aud one each of Ahi, Osiris, and Isis. The Second Side -Boom (PI. xvi) on the left side of Hall C, is named in the inscriptions If 1 iT^ll ■Olail' n|jg ante- y II II CT^^^ty llo D Li chamber belonging to the Hall of the Altar' ; while in the exterior marginal inscriptions it is called j | -^ Seh tua, interpreted by Diimichen as Room of Purification. It was probably used in the preparations for the festival cerenioines that took place in the ad- joining Hall of the Altar; and among its inscriptions in honour of Hathor is one that seems to indicate that the temple at Denderah is to be regarded as a replica of a celebrated temple of the sun-god of Heliopolis, of which however no trace now remains. Here a reference is made to the gilding and painting of the sculptured or- namentation, which are so often mentioned in the inscriptions. A careful examination of the walls in some of the rooms will still detect traces here and there of this painting. We now pass through the central portal in the rear-wall of Hall C, and enter the last of the Prosekos Halls. This is the Hall of the Cycle of Gods (PI. B), named in the inscriptions | ^ vSt ' L'sekli pnut neteru, or ij "ole ^ Hir ab, i.e. Middlle Hall. The whole of the sculptures aud inscriptions in this room refer to Hathor in her capacity as goddess of light, who has her seat in the sun's disc rising from the horizon, and who was as such represented under the figure of an hawk with a woman's head in the middle of the disc rising on the sun-mountain. (With this we may compare tiie representation of the goddess above the central portal in the rear-wall, i.e. above the entrance to the Adytum A.) The adjoining room to the left (PI. xii) is named in the in- scriptions I Q i.e. the CLoth Room or Wardrobe. It was the repository for the sacred wreaths and garments, with which the images of Hathor and her fellow-gods were adorned at the festivals celebrated in the temple and sometimes at the great new year's festival. According to the sculptures and inscriptions the prepared perfumes were also placed here. One half of the room was devoted to the garments, the other to the sacred perfumes. Over the latter presided the divine Mazet, previously mentioned among the man- agers of the manufacture of the incense and anointing oil as one of the lords of the laboratory (p. 88); over the former Uathotep, god of woven fabrics, with his companion the goddess Tai, held sway. The sculptured ornamentation on the walls is also arranged iu har- mony with this division of the room. 94 Route?. DENDERAH. Hatlwr The opposite siile-door on the right side of the hall, leads to three connected Rooms (PI. xiii, xiv, and xv), which to a certain extent form a special enclosed sanctuary, within the large temple. Wc sec here (1) the small temple (PI. xv), open in front and some- what higher than tlic two preceding rooms, and entered hy a portal between two llathor columns, approached by seven steps; (2j the unroofed fore-court (PI. xiv) ; and (3) the small ante-room ( PI. xiii), forming a connecting link between the staircase and Room xxiii as J ^ "^ZEP well as between Halls C and B. The name n _ i.e. U CT^® D Chief Festal Chamber, is occasionally bestowed upon all three rooms in the inscriptions, both on account of the preparations here made for the chief festival at Denderah, the great new year's festival on the morning ofThoth 1st, and on account of the preliminary celebration before this festival, which was also conducted in this suite of rooms with great splendour by the priests of llathor, 'on the day of the Night of the Child in his Cradle'( ITl T ^=^ S) T the 4th Epagomene or Intercalated day, on the night of which the closing festival of the Egyptian year began. Most of the represen- tations and inscriptions refer to these festivals. Resides this common name each of the three apartments had a special name. No. xv was called fi [1 [\ j.e.'Roomof the Bright Light', after the large and beautiful painting on thereof. As on the two halves of the ceiling of Hall E (p. 83), the heavenly vault is here personitied as a woman with pendent arms, the 'celestial Nut, the bearer of the light-beam'. She is here depicted with the sun rising from her lap, its beams co- vering the sun-mountain placed in the centre and siirruunding with their splendour the head of Hathor, which is represented with radiating tresses as resting upon the sun-mountain. The entrance -chamber adjoinina; Ihe uncovered fore -court (PI. xiv), and affording also comuiunication with the AV. staircase (p. 91), is indicated by its sculptured ornamentation as a second treasure- chamber. Like Room xxi (p. 88) it was named ^ A ^ n i.e. Silver Chamber; and it was also called the 'store-room'. We now return to Hall R in order to visit thence the innermost part of the temple, 'the hidden secret chambers', as they are called in the inscriptions, the rooms of the Sekus. These consist of the Adytum, or JIolij of Holies^ occupying the centre, and the 11 side- rooms around it, i to vi on the right, viii to xi on the left. The entrances to these are from the corridor a, which surrounds the Adytum on three sides and is reached from llallR by the two doors on till! right and li ft. The Holy of Holies was the central hall A, which was named Temple. DENDERAH. 7. Route. 95 ^. v-> . , the 'Dwelling of the golden one', or the 'Chamber of the golden-beaming one' — 'of the noble — of the beautiful — of the goddess', also 'the room of the great throne' — 'the repository of the sacred boat', the 'sanctuary' + . Here the lord of Egypt alone is depicted. He, the living type of the beautiful Horus, the son of the sun, the child of Hathor (as the Pharaoh is frequently named in this temple of Hathor), the visible representative of the deity, ami as ruler of Egypt the incorporation of all the temporal interests of the state, he it was alone, to judge from the representations and inscriptions, whose sacred person might enter the holy of holies and in solitude commune with the deity. Only once a year was this permitted even to him, at the great festival of the New Year. We here see the monarch opening the door of the sacred cella, closed with a sealed band of hyblos. He breaks the seal and removes the strip of byblos (sesh tebtu and seker atera), he places his hands in the two rings on the door and thrusts back the bolts, ascends the steps leading to the cella, and finally gazes upon the hidden figure of the goddess, and offers his homage. Other designs exhibit the monarch performing the prescribed ceremonies of offering incense before the two sacred boats of Hathor and her companion, Horus of Edfu, and before the boats of Isis and her companion Osiris. The portable boats [Tes-nefru, i.e. 'the bearers of beauties'), which are here depicted on the side-walls, formerly stood in Room A, and held the shrines in which were the sacred images of the deities. The shrines were carried in solemn processions by the priests, sometimes without the boats, as e.g. at the new year's festival re- presented on the staircase (p. 91), and sometimes standing in the boats. The Side-rooms of the Adytum are, as mentioned above, eiitered from corridor a. Behind the Adytum, to the S., lies No. 1, the Large Chamber, the largest and most sacred of these side-rooms. The sanctity of this chamber is evidenced by the painting, in which the king is portrayed exactly as in the Adytum itself, ascending the steps to the shrine of Hathor, breaking the seal, and opeiiing the doors, grasping the handles in his hands. Noteworthy also are the representations of the king offering vases of wine to Hathor and to Ahi, her son, in each case followed by a liarp-playing goddess of the north and of the south. Two other pictures represent Fepi, the original builder of the temple (p. 81), kneeling before Hathor, bearing Ahi in his hands, and the later builder with a mirror before the goddess in a double shrine. The inscriptions give the dimen- sions of these images and state that they were made of gold, so that + Mariette recognises only a ster el Medineh, in the morning if possible, if lime permit also one of tlie tombs in the part of the Necropolis of Thebes known as Kurnet Jlurrai, ami finally some of the Tombs ol Sliekh 'Abd el-Kurnah. 'I'he view at sunset from this point is of incomparalile beauty and interest. 3rd day. Cross the river early, visit the temple of Scti I. at Kurnah, ride to the valley of the Tombs of the Kings (liibrm el-Muluk) with the famous graves of the Pharaohs, then cro.'s the ridge which divides the latter from tlie other valleys of the Necropolis, and visit the terraec-temjile of Der el-Bahri and some of the tombs of cl-Asasif. A visit to the Tombs of the Queens may ibe combined with an expedition to Medinet-Habu. Otlier less important monuments may be included according to their situation. '1 he /'bur rfa.v*' programme of Gaze's steamers is still better: — 1st day. Luxor and Karnak. 2nd day. Tomplo of Seti 1., Tombs of the Kings, Der el-1'ahri, and the Ramesseum. 3id day. Colossi of Memnon, Medinet Habu, Der ol-Medineh, and Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah. 4thday. Great f«mple of Karnak. A five days'' visit may be spent as follows. — 1st day. Visit the tenij)le at Luxor and the great temple of AmiiKm at Karnak. — 2ud day. On tlio W. bank. Colossi of Jlemnon, Medinet H;ibu ; Der cl-Medireb. — 3rd day. Kamessemn ; Tombs of Shekh 'Alid el-Kurnah; terrace-temple of Der ol-l!atiri ; el-Asasif; Drah Abu'l Neggah. — '5lli day. Second visit to K^irnak : visit to the various side-lcmiiles and pylons; excursion to Me- damiit (p. 151) if desired. /O . /^ Dislxict THESE S '"i r^ -'^'T^ ^~m O «»iy*a v^irnalc (' rs , .UU„,.l)J«,Uf. c Aiitviuilks. THEBES. 9. Route. 103 Other claims upon tlie traveller's time will te made iu Thebes. If he have paid a visit to one of the consular agents , he will he invited to a Fantnsii/a , and if he have brought good introductions, the fantnsiya will he jireceded hy a dinner. Among the modern Arabs the word 't'antasiya' is applied to every kind of amusement, from the aimless discharging of nmskefs, to the greatest festivity. In the present connection it signifies an evening party, at which the chief entertainment is the more or less skilful dancing of hired ghawazi, and which is recommended especially to gentlemen who have not before seen anything of the kind. Chibouks, cigarettes, colTee, and liqueurs are offered to the guests. Antiquities. The traveller in Thebes is frequently tempted to purchase antiquities. Half the population of Luxor is engaged in traffic with an- ticjuities, and the practice of fabricating scarabfei and other articles frequently found in tombs is by no means unknown to the other half. Many of the articles otfered for sale are so skilfully imitated that even experts are sometime J in doubt as to their genuineness; the ordinary traveller seldom or never secures an authentic specimen. Only as many piastres as they ask shillings should ever be offered to the importunate hawkers of antiquities at the temples and tombs. Those who desire a genuine memorial of antiquity should apply to the director of the hotel or to one of the above named consular agents. Even in this case, however, absolute certainty is not attainable; for though honourable traders them- selves, the consular agents are liable to be deceived in the purchases they make. Caution should be observed in the purchase of unopened Papyrus liolls; for dishonest vendors are in the habit of pasting torn fragments of papyrus (frequently found in tombs) xipon canes so as to present the appearance of genuine papyrus-rolls. Egyptian antique bronzes, with artificial rust, are made wholesale in Trieste, Paris, and Hanau; Cairo and Luxor have the best factories for the fabrication of antiques in terracotta and carved wood. Valuable and genuine antiques may, however, still be obtained in Luxor by those who are prepared to spend money. The prices are high; il. being now charged for a genuine scarabseua. Good and reliable specimens, including papyri, may be obtained from Hfohammed M'h:issob and 'Abd el-Megid. Photographs. Good phot' graphs are produced hy A. Beato in Luxor; l)ut even in Shepheard's and other hotels in Cairo, excellent photographs of Egyptian temples are sold at moderate prices. Those by //. Bechard are distinguished for arti'^tic taste; those by Sibah are also good. — Photo- graphs of the Royal Mummies (p. 230) about is. Qd. each. Guides and Donkeys. A guide is of great assistance in saving time. The charge is 4-5 fr. per day, or more for a largo party. Guides on the E. hank are not allowed to serve on the W. liank, and vii-e versa. The following guides may bo recommended: On the right bank (for Karnak), Hasdii Ahmed, Sedan, and 'Ahd el-Megid; on the left (W.) bank, 'AH, who can take good rut)bings ; Mohammed 'Ali, Ahmed Gorgdr, 'Abd al-Mans-dr, Jsiiui'il Ilusen, Khali/eh and' his son Selim, Ahmed 'Abd er-Ras&l, etc. The 'Donkeys on the E. side of Thebes are good and have good saddles. To Karnak 1 fr. or is., and as much more when the traveller is called for or keeps the ass for the day. On the W. side the donkeys, which are much more heavily worked, are not so good, but tliey are fairly well saddled. Charge 2 fr. per day. The hotels on the E. bank provide donkeys; on tlie W. bank they must be ordered beforehand. — Little girls with water- botth;s run after the traveller, especially on the W. bank, keeping up with the donkeys with tireless agility. One should be selected and repaid with a few piastres on the return. The attractive faces of these merry children sometimes vividly recall the portraits of Egyptian women of the time of the Pharaohs. . Sport. Sportsmen mav have an opportunity of shooting a jackal, the best time and place being'at and after sunset near Kil>an el-Muluk or the Kamesseum. An experienced hunter is to be found at the Luxor Hotel. Hyenas are sometimes shot on the Karnak side. In March numerous quail are found here. Literature. The following are the chief authorities for ancient Thebes : 104 Routes. THEBES. Topography. — Mariette, Karnak, Etude topograpbique et archeologique. Leipzig, 1375. — Brugsch, Re'petierirhte, 1855. — E. de Rougi, Ktudcs des inonunicnts du massif de Karnak, in the 'Mt'langes d Archeologic t'gyptienne et ;i8«yrienne'. On each side of the Nile, hero interrupted by three i.slands, stretches a wide bolt of fertile land, bounded both on tlio E. and \V. by ranges of hills, displaying a bolder and more dellnitc; for- mation than is usually the case with tlie mountains that flank the river-valley. On the E., the ridge, overtopped by finely shaped peaks, retires farther from the stream than on the W. Tlie fertile strip ends as abruptly at the foot of the barren limestone- cliff.'s as a lawn adjoining a gravel-walk In a garden. Most of the ruin- ed temples are situated in the level district and are reached by the waters of the Nile when the inundation? are at their higliest; while the tombs are hewn in the flanks of the hills, where their dark openings are s-o numerous, tliat the E. .slope of the Libyan range might be aptly compared to a piece of cork or to a honeycomb. Viewed from the river, the site of ancient Thebes presents the ap- pearance of a wide mountain-girt basin or valley richly endowed with the gifts of nevei -failing fertility. Nature hero revels in perpetual youth, while the most enormous edifices ever reared by mortal liaiid, though grey, desolate, and succumbing to the common fate of all human handiwork, yet (compel the admiration of posterity for the wonderful race that has left such mighty memorials of its existence — memorials that have indeed been injured but not annihilated in the flight of tliousatids of years. The verdant crops and palms which everywliero cheer the traveller as .soon as he lias quitted the desert, the splendid hues tliat tinge tho valley every morning and evening, tlie brilliant, unclouded sunshine that batlios every object in tlie winter season, and the inspiring feeling that every hour is enriching the imagination with new and strange pictures, wholly prevents in Thebes the rise of that melancholy which so often steals over the mind in presence of the relics of by-gone greatness and of vanished magnificence. The various monuments are situated as follows. On the riglit (E. bank) rises the Temple of Luxor, now occupied by dwellings, and to thoN. are the immense ruins of Karnak, formerly connected with it. Beyond tliese monuments lay the streets of ancient Thebes. Farther to tho N. is another extensive temple-site at Medaniiit, which must bo regarded as occupying the site of a suburb of Thebes. On the left.(\V.) bank was the Neiropolis, witli vaults in tho rock and many^t'mortuary temples. Each of these liad its largo annexe for the priesthood, sdiools, or libraries. The temples were adjoined by (proves and lakes, and from ancient commenial contracts wa gather that one quarter of the citizens dwelt here. Nearer the mountains stood the houses of the embaliners, refuges for visitors to tlie necropolis, shops for tho sale of numerous articles which tho Egyptians were accustomed to bring as offerings to their ancestors, Mablcs for the sacrod animals, and .slaughter-houses for tho cattle Topoyraphy. THEBES. 9. Route. 105 brought to be sacrificed. The landing-place on the other bank, op- posite Karnak, was united with the temple of Kurnah by rows of sphinxes. As the ancient pilgrim continued on his way towards the N.W. and crossed the hill of the cemetery now called el-Asasif, he came in sight of the rocky amphitheatre which enclosed the terraced precincts of the temple of Der el-Bahri. Northwards from Kurnah a well-made route led to the valley of the Tombs of the Kings, now called Biban el-Muluk, which could also he reached by a shorter though more fatiguing mountain-path from el-Asasif. Between the entrance of the valley of the Kings' Tombs and el-Asasif and close to the mountain lay the necropolis known as Drah Abul Neggah. Thence following the edge of the fertile strip towards the S.W. we reach the magnificent Ramesseum. Behind rises the mountain-ridge. The tombs on its E. slope, partly occupied as dwellings by the fellahin, belong to the village now called Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnali. As we gaze down upon the plain from the higher-lying graves, the Colossi of Memnon are conspicuous in the midst of the fertile belt. Behind these are the prominent ruins, known as Kom el-IIetan, rising near the central point of an imaginary line connecting tlie Ramesseum with the temple of Medinet Habu , the magnificent Memnonium of Ramses III. Turning from Medinet Habu to the S.W., we reach a small temple of the Ptolemies; to the N., near the mountains, lies the valley with the Tombs of the Queens; and skirting the line of hills to the N.W. we reach the scanty tomb- remains of Kurnet Murrai, to the W. of which lies a valley with the small but interesting temple of Der el-Medineh. Two points are of special value for taking one's bearings. One is the summit of the mountain lying between el-Asasif and Biban el-Mulftk; the other is the door of eltlier of two tombs at Shekh 'Abd el-Kurnah. One of the tombs, in which Lepsius lived, is known to the guides as Kasr Lepsius; the other was inhabited by Ebers, who is remembered by the fellahin as Abu Bulos (Father of Paul). The name Thebes is probably the Greek form of the Egyptian X ] V\ j v\ T Uabu, with the feminine article t prefixed, i.e. Tuabu. The Hellenes, familiar with the name Thebes (O-^jBai), which was borne by cities in Bceotia, Attica, Thessaly, Cilicia, near Miletus in Asia Minor, etc., believed that in Tuabu they had met it once more. Possibly, however, the name may be derived from the words I [" apt dsu, which were applied to the temples on the E. I^ill II ^ , , bank at least. Among the Greeks the town was known as AioottoAi;, a translation of Pa-amen, city of Amnion, also called Diospolh Megale or Diospolis Magna to distinguish it from Diospolis Parva or Hou (p. 70). The famous capital of Upper Egypt was certainly founded un- der the ancient empire, but whether earlier than the 11th Dyn., IOC Route i). THEBES. IHxtory. of wliicb lombs liave been found, is open to question. Hardly any traces of earlier monuments have been discovered. The earliest prosperity ol' Tlnbes dates from the eclipse of the first flourish- ing period of Memphis. Previously it was named the southern On, in distinction to Heliopolis, the northern On. A legend, known to us, however, only from inscriptions of a later date, narrates that Osiris Mas born here. Such a myth can scarcely have been invented in later times, for from the beginning of the Now Empire onwards, Osiris fell into a position ipiite subsidiary to the other gods of Thebes, especially to Ammon-Ka with whom Muth and Khunsu formed a triad. Only in connection with the worship of the dead did Osiris retain his loading rank. Among goddesses a Hathor seems to have enjoyed especial honour from the earliest times; and even till a coni- jjaratively late date the iiome Phatliyrites (the Pathros of the IJible), of which Theles was the nourishing capital, was called after her the 'Hathor district', lender the early empire the afterwards gigantic city was not conspicuous. It is seldom mentioneil, and even under the liith Dyn. Assiut-Lycopolh (p. 31) is described as the chief town of Upper Egypt. When the llyksos invadedthe Nile valley, the legitimate princes, who had ruled fron! the .Mtiditerranean to the Cataracts, were driven to the south. Here they reigned during several inglorious centuries, until Kaskenen and King Aahnies (p. xxxi) arose and under the banner of Ammoii of Thebes expelled the strangers. The succeed- ing princes, won important victories not only on Egyptian soil but also in Asia, always tigliting under the auspices of Anuuon with whom was joined the Ka of Lower Egypt, and who, as we have .seen (Vol. I., p. 138), was speedily placed at the head of all the national gods. The liberation of the country was directed from Thobes, and that city continued for centuries to be the favourite seat of the Pharaohs, and the reservoir into which flowed the untold treasures exacted as tribute or brought as booty from Asia to I']gypt. A large share of this wealth was bestowed upon Amnion. 'J'he magnificent and gigantic temple, erected at this jieriod to the god, is still one of tlie chief sights of Thebes. The grandees of the kingdom esteemed it an honour to become priests of Ammon , the schools beside his temples flourished, and the kings offered their ricliest gifts to this god, from whom they expected a surer fulfilment of llicir petitions than from any other. 'J'Imis Thebes became the city of Ammon, the No or A'^&-/l»(iOJiof Scrip- turcaud tho l>ionpotis of thcGreeks. Victory over foes was the burden of every prayer of the Pharaohs at this culminating period of Thebes, and the warriors led out by the monarchs were drilled under the eye of the god. In the introductory remarks on the history of Egypt mention has already been mad(; of the great warrior-princes who placed Thebes at the zenith of its fame, and In the description of the various monuments reference will again ho made to them. Here it may bo added that the fame of the huge city early reached the ears even of the Greeks. In a possibly interpolated passage of the nidory. THEBES. y. Route. 1U7 Iliad (IX, 379-384), Acliilles, uuragcd with Agamemnon, assures Ulysses that he will never more unite in council or in deed with the great Atrides : — "Ton times as much, and twenty times were vain; the high pil'd store" "Of rich Mycena-, and if lie ransack wide earth for more," "Search old Orchomenus for gold, and hy the fertile stream" "Where, in Egyptian Thebes, the heaps of precious ingots gleam," "The hundred-gated Thebes, where twice ten score in martial state" "Of valiant men with steeds and cars march through each massy gate." (Blacklegs T7-anslafi07i.) The epithet £y.aT6,az'jXo;, i.e. 'hundred-gated', here used by Homer, was also applied by later classical authors to Thebes. Diodonis, Strabo, Pliny, and liato of Sinope all make use of it, referring, liowever, to the pylons of the temples in the capital of Upper Egypt. With the rising importance of the god and with the increase of Ins wealth, of which they had the disposal, the archpriests of Ammon gradually grew to regard themselves as the chief persons in the state; and, after the way had been prepared by a series of weak princes, they succeeded in usnrping the throne and by their rnle prepared the ruin of Egyptian power. From the '20th Dyn. onwards, Thebes began to decay. Ramses III. indeed adorned the left bank especially with elaborate buildings ; bnt his immediate successors did no more than hew out for themselves deep and richly carded graves in the valley of the Kings' Tombs, and the princes of Lower Egypt who succeeded the priests of Ammon of the '21st Dyn. were the less able to bestow attention upon Thebes, the more eagerly they strove to adorn their homes in the Delta with gorgeous struc- tures. Yet even these princes did not wholly abandon Thebes, and they did not omit to inscribe pretentious reports of their mighty acts on the walls of the temple of Ammon. The armies of the Assy- rians penetrated as far as Thebes and plundered it; the Ethiopians planted their rnle here and honoured Ammon with buildings and inscriptions; the princes of the 26th Dyn. did for Sais what the princes of the '18th and 19th Dyn. had done for the city of Ammon, but they also paid their homage to the great god of Thebes by erecting smaller buildings there. The invading army of Cambyses ascended as far as Upper J2gypt, but seems to have done little or no damage at Thebes. Nei'tanebus I., one of the native Egyptian princes who maintained themselves against the Persians , found time and means to add a handsome pylon to tlie temple of Ammon. Alexander the Great and the princes of the house of the Lagidae probably found Thebes still a great though decadent city, and they assisted to embellish it, as many buildings dating from the period of the Ptolemies still attest. After the 22nd Dyn. the treasures of Ethiopia had ceased to enrich Thebes; and when the harbour of Alexandria began to attract to itself the produce of Egypt brought from the Red Sea to the Nile valley, the vessels of Koptos, with their lading of Indian and Arabian goods, but seldom found their way S. to the great city of Ammon. Thebes still remained con- 108 Route 9. THEBES. Hhtonj. spicuous as a city of templet; and priests, but its inhabitants de- clinocl in wealth. It may be easily conjectured that these, Ibrnierly the chief amonft the citizens of i'lgypt, bore but ill tlie fate which now placed them far behind the Alexandrians. Strangers sat on the throne of Ka, and cared not to take the trouble to visit in person tlie remote Diospolis, the coronation-town of the Pharaohs, who had been accustomed to make a triumphal entry after each victory and to otfer thanks to Ammon. The earlier noble Lagidae were suc- ceeded by worthless rulers, whose extravagant tastes forccil tliem to drain the resources of the Thebaul and other provinces. Un- der the gluttonous Euergetes II. and his consort CIeoi)atra Cocce the Alexandrians rose in revolt and expelled Alexander I., the king's son. The citizens of the capital of Upper Egypt dared also to rise in the attempt to win back their lost independence ; and they refused to lay down tlieir arms even when Ptolemy Soter II. [Lathyrus) was recalled from banishment by the Alexandrians and was universally recognized in Lower Egypt. The army of Uathyrus besieged the town, whose inhabitants bravely defended tliemselves in the liuge temples, each of which served as a fortress. Finally, however, Thebes was stormed; its treasures were plundered and its venerable monuments terribly mutilated. Thenceforward Tliebes is only mentioned as a goal of inquisitive travellers, who under the Koman emperors were attracted to the Nile by two monuments in particular — the pyramids and the musical colossus of Memnon on tlie W. bank at Thebes. Diodorus (60 15. C) and Strabo (2415.C.) describe Thebes as it was after the destruction. The latter found only a few relics on each side of the Nile, just as the traveller of to-day does. An earthquake, no common occurrence in I'^gypt, had done more than the hand of the tierce warrior to destroy the monuments of thousands of years. In 27 or 24 U.G. a convulsion nf this nature wrought such havoc that luisebius declared, thougli not without exaggeration, that the I'.gyptian Thebes had been levelled with the ground. In the absence of some sucli natural force, we should be tempted to declare that the annihilation of many parts of the monuments of Thebes must liave been a task only less difficult than their construction. At many points, especi- ally in the temple at Karnak, the injury is plainly to be ascribed to human hands. The representations, dating from the period of the Ptolemies, within the second main pylon, to the left as we ap- proach the largo hypostyle hall, have been removed with axes or hammers. Some smaller injuries, especially to the names of the kings, were due to political reasons, as when Tutmes III., after he obtained the sole jjower, destroyed the cartouches of his too ambi- tious sister and guardian ; others are to be ascribed to the evil habit of certain Pharaohs of apjiroiniating the monuments of their pre- decessors by substituting their own names for those of the real builders; and yet others had religious causes, as when the name of Eaut Bank. LUXOR. 10. Route. 109 Seth was obliterated at various epochs. The introduction of Christ- ianity and the edicts of Theodosius were followed by the destruc- tion of many pagan statues and the obliteration of many pagan in- scriptions. At all events the new religion and the closing of the temples dedicated to the ancient gods removed all possibility of anything being done to preserve the monuments of the Pharaohs. The Nile, which annually overflowed as far as the temple of Karnak in particular, and the saline exudations of the soil, wrought harm ; jackals and other animals sought shelter in the subterranean cham- bers; many tombs, at first occupied by Christian hermits, were con- verted into peasants' dwellings; Christian churches were erected in the temple-halls, and houses were built between the columns of the temple at Luxor. Carefully hewn blocks and slabs were removed from the monuments, which were used as quarries, and many limestone details were thrown into the furnace and reduced to lime. Whither the enormous population of the hundred -gated Thebes betook itself is unknown. A few widely-scattered villages alone now represent of the giant city. These have given names to the various edifices and tombs, whose holy names might only be uttered with pious awe in the time of the Pharaohs. The ruins of Thebes remained long forgotten. On the revival of learning classical students recalled their fame; Pococke rediscovered, described them and drew them; and finally the publications of the great French Expedition revealed to astonished Europe how much of the ancient magnificence of the Pharaohs had survived to our time. Each succeeding scientific expedition made its longest halt here and found here its richest rewards. The names of Champollion, Wil- kinson, Lepsius, and other Egyptologists are familiar words on the site of ancient Thebes ; and Mariette, who carried on excavations under the auspices of the Khedive, must also be mentioned. A. THE EAST BANK AT THEBES. 10. The Temple of Luxor. The name of Luxor is derived from the Arabic el-Kasr, pi. el- Ktisur, and means 'the castles', having reference to the extensive teniple in which part of the village of Luxor was built, and which is adjoined by another part. The mosque still stands within the temple. The house of the British consul, as well as the so-called Kd^r Fransilvi, and other buildings, which formerly stood here, have been removed witliin the last few years , the S. side of the temple laid free, and the interior cleansed. The chief entrance on the N., with tlie pylons and their obelisks still on their ancient site, is also to be thoroughly excavated. Seen from the river, the temple now presents a highly imposing appearance, previously interfered 110 Route 10. TJ'XOTl. Fa fit r„ink witli by luoileni buililiiigs. Tlio lionso of Moliarb Todrus, the (>er- iiiaii fonsiilar agent (p. 102), lies farther to the N., near tht' landing- place, where traces of an ancient construction may be seen, which is unfortu7iately disappearing be- fore the annual inundations, and not far from the principal py- lon. To the left of the main pylon is the village, with a shop, kept by a Greek, at which provisions of all kinds and porter , ale , can- dles, etc. may be purchased. Far- ther to the N.E, dwell numerous gliawazi. The removal of later buildings from the *Temple of Luxor has rendered it easy to reconstruct its gronnd-pla!i (see opposite), and to see that its erection was gradual and more or less affected by the existence of still earlier buildings. The general main axis of the temple lies from S. W. to N.R.; but the axis of the N. portion deviates con- siderably from the direction of that of the S. portion, partly^n account of the shape of the river-bank, partly because it was desired to have the pylons at Luxor corresponding to those of Karnak. A careful examination indeed reveals three different axial directions. Those deviate from the true meridian, at an angle of 41' '21" on the S., and at an angle of 51" on the N. As was the custom, the part of the temple containing the sanctuary (the S. part) was built llrst, indud-. ing the large peristyle hail. This took place in the ISth Dyn. under Auienhotep III., while the W. por- tions were added by Ramses II. From the obelisks to the back of the sanctuary, the total length of the temple is 284 yds. Later kings, ,it Thebes. LUXOR. 10. lioute. 1 1 1 including some of the Ptolemies, placed inscriptions witli their names on the ancient buildings. The Principal Pylon is easily recognized by the obelisks and colossi at its portal. The visitor who places himself in front of this perceives at once that rubbish and earth conceal one-half of the sloping fa(;ade which is richly adorned with carvings and inscriptions now sadly damaged. Like all pylons, the one before us consists of tv)0 truncated pyramids with an en- trance-door-between them. The latter was 55 ft. in height. The side- towers, which rose about 20 ft. higher, were crowned with an ele- gant concave. cornice, which has now almost completely disappeared, and were framed with the astragal. The entrance -door is com- pletely ruined. Under the cornice is a conspicuous Inscription in large letters , which may be traced also on the architrave of the peristyle court, wherever it has remained visible and entire. This inscription contains a dedication, intimating that Ramses IL built this imposing edifice for his father Ammon-Ra, the king of the Gods. On each side of the entrance were two monolithic Colos.ti, 40 ft. in height; the most easterly has disappeared, the three others arc half-buried in rubbish. In front of the central figures, though not quite symmetrically placed, rose two Obelisks of pink granite, one of which (the W.) now adorns the Place de la Con- corde at Paris. It is to be hoped that a crack, which has been noticed in the monument from the days of antiquity, will not lead to its destruction under the influence of a northern climate. This "W. obelisk was smaller than its E. neighbour which is still stand- ing ; and the ancient architects endeavoured to counteract this in- equality by giving the smaller obelifek a higher base than the other, and placing it a little farther forward. The inscriptions on the obelisk still standing at Luxor are clearly and finely cut in the stone and are perfectly legible. They name Ramses the Pharaoh, with many pretentious titles, as the founder of this gorgeous building erected in honour of Ammon in southern Thebes (Apt res). The faces of these obelisks, like those of most others, are slightly con- vex, as the priestly architects observed that aflat surface was apt to appear concave in a strong light. Details supplied by the French engineers give a vivid idea of the enormous weight that had to bo handled in the erection of an obelisk, although the Paris obelisk is comparatively smaU ; considerably larger obelisks are to be seen at Karnak. The W. obelisk of Luxor is 75 ft. high, its base is 7"/2 ft- square, and its weight is upwards of 212 tons. The exterior walls of the pylons of nearly every Egyptian temple are adorned with representations referring to victories granted by the gods of the sanctuaries to the royal builders. At Luxor these representations refer to victories granted by Ammon to Ramses IL The rich sculpture with which the broad walls of the pylons were covered lias sufl'ered severely from the hand of time. At several places the lieliefs en creu.v, deeply cut in the stone, are practically 1 1 2 Route 10. LUXOR. East Bank rubbed out. On the left (K. | wing, however, the lile-liko llgure of the king, shooting arrows from his chariot, and the fine rearing horses of his chariot, are still clearly to be distinguished. On the right ( W.) wall also a good deal may be made out. The king is here represented in his camp. He has dismounted from his chariot, which waits for him, and lias seated himself upon his throne. His officers await his instructions , and farther in the background the troops rest in their camp. The inscriptions are much injured, but it can be made out froiu them that they were graven in the stone chiefly in honour of Ramses II. 's victory over the Kheta (Aramasans) and their allies. In the 5th year of the king, on the 9th Payni, the for- tress of Katesh on the Orontcs was stormed. The river and the contest on its banks are still distinguishable. The Epic of Fentimr In 90 vertical lines, covers the lower part of the W. wing and part of the E. wing; some of it has recently been uncovered, the rest is still concealed by rubbish. This poem was the nationMl epos, the Iliad, of the ancient Egyptians. It occurs twice on the E. bank at Thebes — on the N. side of the pylon at Luxor and on the 8. side of the temple of Karnak (here also partly concealed by earth). It is also found, thongh in a very fragmentary condition, on the N. wall of the temple of Ramses II. at Abydos (discovered first by Eisen- lohr), and in the most complete (hieratic) form in the Papyrus Raifet (now in the Louvre) and the Papyrus Sallier III. (now in the British Museum). The poetic text on the pylons at Luxor is followed by a prose text, dealing mainly with the arrival of two hostile spies, who gave out at first that the Kheta bad fled into the laiid of Khirabu (llcl- bon or Aleppo) to the N. of Tunep, but who on being scourged re- vealed the real lurking-place of the enemy to the N.W. of Katesh. The king hastily recalled the Egyptian troops, but too late to pre- vent his camp being suddenly attacked on the S. by the Kheta. The Egyptians were surrounded, and only the personal bravery of the king secured the linal victory. This prose inscription, preserved in fiiU at the Ramcsseum and in the temple of Abu-Simbel, describes the same event as the poem of Pentaur, thougli it dates it a month later. The most important and finest episodes accordin}: to the restoration of the text by j;. dc Roufre are as follows. 'Then the miserable and worthless "Kheta with liis numerous allies lay hidden behind the fortress of Katesh. Jlis majesty found himself alone (wilh his servants). The legion of Amnion marched after him; the legion of Ra passed through the valley to the S. of the fortress of Shabtun and marched forwards .... In the centre was the legion of I'lah, ,sui)ported by the fortress of Arnam; the legion of Sutekh (Scth - Typhon) went upon its way. The king had summoned all the leaders of his army, who were in the valleys of the land of Aniaur. The miserable and worthless prince of the Kheta was in the midst of his soldiers; and for fear of His M^esty dared not prepare, himself to battle. Yet he ordered forward his archers and his chariots, that were more in number than the sand of the sea shore. Three men were in each chariot, and they had united themselves with the warriors of the land of the Kheta, evpcrt with all weapons. He remained hidden at Thebes. LUXOll. 10. Route. 113 behind the fortress of Katesh. Then they pressed forth on the S. side of Katesh and attacked the centre of the legion of Ra, which was on the march, and having uo warning was unprepared for the battle. The archers and chariots gave way before them. His Majesty alone had made a halt to the N. of the fortress Katesh, on the W. bank of the Orontes. News was brought to His Majesty of what had happened. And behold, the king rose up like his father Mont (the god of war); he seized his weapons and put on his armour, like Baal in his hour. The noble horses that bore his majesty ('Victory for Thebes' was their name) came furth from the stable of Ramses, the beloved of Ammon, and the king dashed in his attack into the midst of the miserable Kheta. Ue was alone and no otiier was loith him. And as he hastened on before the eyes of those that followed him, he found himself surrounded by 2500 chariots of war, (cut off) from his return by all the warriors of the miserable Kheta and the nume- rous peoples that accompanied them ; by the people of Arados, Mysia, and Pisidia (Aratu, Masa, Pidasa). Each of their chariots bore three men, and they had all united themselves. 'No prince was with me, no general, no commander of the archers or chariots. My soldiers have deserted me, and my knights have fled before them; not one of them has made a stand to fight by my side'. Then spoke his majesty: 'Who art thou, () father Ammon? does a father forget his son? Have I ever undertaken anything without thee? Have I not walked and do I not stand ever according to thy words? Never have I trespassed thy commands . . . What are these Semites to thee? Ammon renders the godless helpless. Have I not offered to thee countless sacrifices? Through me thy holy dwelling was filled with my captives. I have built thee a temple for millions of years, and I furnish thy store-houses with all my goods. I brought the whole wor'd to thee to enrich thy possessions; 3000 oxen I sacrificed to thee on all manner of sweet-smelling wood. I have not failed to make thy fore- court. Stone pylons 1 erected for thee, and I myself erected the flag-staffs before them. I caused obelisks to be brought from Elephanta, and it was I who caused stones of eternal duration to be brought. For thee ships plough the deep and bring to thee the tribute of the nations. Surely a wretched fate awaits him who resists thy commands, but happiness will be to him who knows thee. I beseech thee, O father Ammon, look upon me here in the midst of countless peoples who are strange to me. All nations have united themselves against me, and I am alone and no one is loith me. My numerous soldiers have deserted me; no one of my knights looked out upon me when I called them; none of them heard my voice. But I believe that Ammon is of more value to me thun a million of soldiers, than a hundred thousand knights and a hundred thousand brothers and young sons, even were they gathered together in one place. The work of multitudes of men is as nothing, Ammon out- weighs them all. This have I accomplished, O Ammon, according to the counsel of thy mouth, and have not exceeded thy commands. Behold, I have paid honour to thee to the uttermost ends of the earth'. My voice sounded to Hermonthis and Ammon came at my cry. He gave me his hand, I uttered a cry of joy, and he spoke behind me; "I hasten to thine aid, O Ramses, my son, beloved of Ammon. I am with thee". — In the farther course of his speech, Ammon says: "Not one of them (the foe) finds his hand to fight; their hearts have vanished from their breasts for fright; their arms have become weak. They are no longer able to launch their arrows, and strength fails them to hold their spears. I thrust them into the water, so that they fall in like the crocodile. They lie prone, one upon another, and I spread death in their midst. I will not that one should look behind him or that another should turn himself. He who falls there shall not rise again". The king of course, as the epos goes on to narrate, completely vanquished the Asiatics allied against him, after hard fighting and after his charioteer himself had lost courage. — Finally the prince of the Kheta sends a messenger with a letter. His submission is accepted ; and Ammon greets the Pharaoh returning in triumph. The general impression produced by the pylon with its obelisks, Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 8 114 Route W. LUXOR. East BanJc colossi, aud the various subsidiary details, is stUl uot unimposiiig; and the whole entrance to the temple at Luxor is unusually pic- turesque, perhaps on account of the very abundance of small details M'hich are unrestrainedly placed here side by side with the huge and dignified. Beyond the principal pylon was the Great Peristyle Court (PI. A), which was entirely surrounded by a double row of columns (twelve pairs on each of the four sides). It measures 185 ft. in length and 167 ft. in breadth. This hall was at one time completely built up, but the W. side at least has now been laid bare. The most recent excava- tions have revealed a portico, dating from Kamses IL, on the inner side of the N.W. wall of the court. The architectonic purport of this portico, which is somewhat lower than the court and has three clustered columns, is not apparent. Between the inner row of co- lumns on the S. side of the court arrows and shields pf Ilamses II. were placed. A mosque situated within this court prejvents the ex- cavation of the E. wall, and considerably mars the general effect. Ilamses II. founded the court, but the Ethiopian Sabalio wrote his name on the portal, while Ptolemy Philopator wrote his on several of the abaci. On the S. side this court was terminated by a smaller Pylon, beyond which, though not with the same axis (see above), is a Colonnade (PI. B), 58 yds. long, built under tlie 18th Dynasty. The last is in tolerably good preservation and contributes essentially to the dignified appearance of the ruins of Luxor when viewed from the river-banli or .still more from the; isbnid crossed on the way to visit the monuments of W. Tht'bcs. Seven couples of columns, nearly 42 ft. in height, with calyx-capitals, .still support a heavy architrave above a lofty abacus. The whole was built by Anien- hotep III., but King IForus, Seti I., and Seti 11. have also recorded their names upon it. The marvellous play of colour shown by this colonnade with its deep, heavy shadows when the setting sun sheds a rosy light uj)on the E. sky, is nowhere excelled. The Second Peristyle Court fPl. 0) had double rows of columns on its N., E., aud W. sides. These, belonging to the order of sculptured papyrus- bud columns, are specially effective as seen from the river-bank. The court was 48 yds. long and 55 yds. broad, and ends in a Hypo- siyle Hall (PI. D), the roof of which was borne by 32 sculptured bud-columns arranged in 4 rows of 8. The two sphinxes at the en- trance bear the name of Sfbckhotcp II. (13th Dyn. ). This hall was barely 20 yds. deep and 35 yds. wide, and for some unexplained reason its E. wall forms an acute angle (instead of a right angle) with the S. wall of the preceding peristyle court. The Open Space (PI. E), which we next find, is entered from the river side, and is specially commended to the traveller's attention. The ancient en- trance to the sanctuary-chambers has here been altered into a kind of apsidal recess, bounded on the right and left by two granite Co- rinthian columns. The court in front of this was used as a church at Thebes. KAKNAK. 11. Route. 115 in later Christian times, and the flue ancient sculptures were co- vered with lime and gaudily painted in the early Christian style. Beyond this space were the series of chambers forming tlie Sanctuary, now accessible only from the side next the river. This is certainly the most ancient part of the temple, and unusually clearly-cut hieroglyphics inform us that it was built by the same monarch who reared the Colossi of Memnon, i.e. by Amenhotep III. The first Room (PI. F), with four columns, contains a series of re- presentations of homage and sacrifice before Ammon Generator, and in the chamber to the E. of it (PI. n) are represented the con- finement of the mother of the king (Mut- em-ua) and the nursing of the infant Amenhotep. Beyond Room F is the Holy of Holies (PI. G). It is doubtful whether Assyrians or Persians destroyed the original sanctuary, but at all events after the Macedonians had. conquered Egypt and after the death of Alexander the Great, it was restored in the name of Alexander II., for whom Ptolemy Soter I. ruled as 'satrap'. Alexander boasts in the dedicatory inscription of hav- ing restored the work of Amenhotep. The last rooms of this part of the temple have now also been excavated, and contain various fine sculptures of the 18th Dynasty. Ammon of Thebes, especially in his ithyphallic form as the productive power, appears everywhere as the chief deity of the temple, receiving sacrifices and bestowing gifts. In the chamber adjoining the last square hall traces have been found of a staircase ascending to the roof of the temple. 11. Karnak. Travellers who arrive at Luxor iu the morning shoiUl devote the afternoon to a lirst visit to Karnak; if they arrive iu the evening they should spend on it the next morning:. Karnak is ahout V2 hr's. ride from Luxor-, ass 1 fr., for the whole day 2 fr. Guides (Ss. ; p. lOo), who speak a little broken Engli.sh, are useful to save time on a lirst visit, but they are not indispensable. The donkey -boys and temple -keepers also speak broken English. A visit to Karnak by moonlight is exceedingly attractive, but travellers are advised not to make it alone, even although there is nothing to fear from robbers. Next to the Tombs of the Kings, Karnak is by far the most in- teresting part of ancient Thebes. Even under the Pharaohs the group of temples here was considered the most striking creation of an age peculiarly famous for architectural achievements. Centuries have here destroyed much, yet there is no other building in the world that can match the dimensions of the temple of Ammon at Karnak. The brilliant life that once enlivened these halls with colour and sound has long slept in silence beneath the dust. Could it bo re- called by some magician's wand it would present to the beliolder a dazzling and bewildering scene of unique splendour; but it may be questioned whether the admiration and interest commanded by the temple in its uninjured and frequented days could equal the pure enjoyment which is awakened in the breast of the sympathetic 116 Kuutell. KAKNAK. East Bank beholder by the building now, ruined but vpith its whole plan and theory still clear and iiitellifrible. There is nothing now to distract the eye fioni the lines and forms of the temple; and the pomp of banners and the clouds of incense are replaced by the magic of dignified antiquity. Amidst these hoary ruins, we realize the short- ness of our mortal span and recognize the evanescence of human greatness and sjjlendour. Starting frt)m the great pylon of the temple of Luxor, we pro- coed to the E., then follow the street with the Greek shops, and leaving the houses of the ghawazi and the hill with the tomb of the shekh to the right, hold towards the N. We soon arrive at the first ruins of Karnak, and finally, if we have followed the "\V. route, reach an imposing row of Kriosphinxes, i.e. sphinxes with the bo- dies of lions and the heads of rams. Near this point, to the S. of the temple, are two almost parallel Processional Avenues flanked with sphinxes, one uniting the temple of Muth (p. 148) with the S. pylons (p. 147), the other leading from the temple of Luxor to the temple of Khiinsu (p. 148). These two avenues were connected with each other by a third cross- avenue of sphinxes. AVe follow the left (W.) avenue, the flanking sphinxes of which are carved in the grand style and are placed close to each other. Between the legs of each is a statuette with the name of Amenhotep 111. (Ra-ma-neb). This leads us to the handsome but almost too slender Pylon XII, erected by Ptolemy III. Euergetes L, with a winged sun-disc in the casement, with boldly-spread pinions. In the time of the Lagidae additional pylons, corresponding to this one, were placed at the ex- treme corners of the temple. That on flic N. side (p. 143) is still in admirable preservation. Inside the portal Euergetes is represented in Egyptian style though clad in Greek costume. To the right of the lowest representation on tho left side, the king appears sacri- ficing to Khunsu. Between these are tho hawk of Ilorus, the vul- ture of ^'ekheb, and the ibis of Tlioth, which are also represented flying, to bear to the world intelligence of ihe battles, victories, and wisdom of the prince. The inscriptions record that this pylou was dedicated to Khunsu of Thebes. Another avenue of sphinxes follows, beyond which rises the Temple of Kltuvsu{Vl. V.), a band- some building on which, however, we new bestow only a passing glance (comi>. p. 14.S). About '200 paces towards the W. bring us to the First Main Pylon (el-bub cl-kellr), which faces the river. We here begin our description of the temple. I. The Great Temple of Ammon. a. General View. The First Main Pylon. As we stand before the massive pylons of the largest };roup of buildings at Karnak, we may casta glance at the rows of Kriosphinxes which led from the temple-portal to the Nile, lictwceu these rows ^^'■■""' '"' " ^■-i^*'"^^ ;:d IV PiVuoi oJ-tfi^ Ttmpit nf Amman ( vj J f Hii CBSAi TKHP-'ii m mmoM m huvrmm. at Thebes. KARNAK. U . Unute. 117 moved the long processions whicli left the temple of Aramon to visit the W. parts of Thebes. State-barges, glittering with gold and brilliant colours, waited here to receive the priests and the sacred images. On the river-steps were ranged choirs, which, at least on the tive great festival days of Ammon, greeted the pilgrims from the opposite bank with songs. The ancient constructions on the banks have long been washed away. In January and February, the months in whifh most travellers visit Karnak, the stream is only 100-200 paces from the procession-avenue-; while during the inundation the water penetrates into the interior of the temple, which in ancient times it was prevented from doing by huge embankments Ram- ses II. constructed this route to the river , yet most of the Krio- sphinxes that adorn it have statuettes of Seti II. Merenptah between their legs, and two small broken obelisks also bear the name of Seti who reigned towards the close of the 19th Dynasty. In 1883 a small temple with the name of king Psammutliis, of the 2yth Dyn., was discovered at the S.W. corner of the pylon to the riglit. t^ /i The *First Main Pylon (PI. I) is of enormous size. It is still 124 yds. wide, with walls 16 ft. thick and 14272 ft. high. This gigantic portal, which probably dates from the Ptolemies, although no record of the fact is known, is destitute of inscriptions. Possibly it was covered with stucco and adorned with paintings, as its deco- ration with reliefs would have demanded enormous toil and time. No one should omit to make the *Ascent_of_thi&. pylon. This may be done most easily, and without any danger or special difllculty, on the N. side, till we are about half way up, and thence by means of a steep and narrow stair in the interior. The top is so broad that even those who are subject to giddiness need not fear to trust them- selves upon it. After enjoying the extraordinary view of the immense ruins from this point of vantage, it is useful and interesting to seek to identify, with the aid of the accompanying plan, the various col- umns, obelisks, and pillars which at first present themselves in apparently inextricable confusion. This is comparatively easy as regards the nearer [W. ) portion of the temple; but the more distant portions, from among which obelisks tower, are partly out of sight, and are partly so foreshortened by distance, that they appear to form one confused system of ruins. The view by nioonlight is in- describably fine. But on the whole the result is a general though ineffaceable impression, rather than a clear idea of the arrangement of the various parts of the building. The latter is only to bo obtained by wandering, plan in hand, through the ruins. It must, however, never be forgotten that the temple of Karnak, so far from having one single uniform plan, grew up gradually, and that many of its parts owe their character not to any artistic calculation, but to such accidental considerations as the space at the disposal of the architect, the means and length of life of the builder, and the like. 1 t8 Route 11. KAUNAK. East Bank Tlie huiMiiig is at once a temple of the frods aTid a temple of fame; dedicated 'k toutes les gloires" of the empire of the Pharaoh.«, it was compelled to receive addition.';, often in most unsuitable places, whenever it was the will of the king to recognize the favours of Ammon by new buildings which should record for posterity what the god had done for him, and through him for Egypt. Before we enter tbe peristyle court, an inscription on the door of the pylon, to our right as we enter, merits notice. Ihis was placed here by the savants who accompanied tlie army of Napoleon to Egypt, and records the latitude and longitude of the chief temples of the Pharaohs, as cal- culated by them. llepublii|iie Francnise. An VIII. Geographie ilc'' nionnments. Temples Longitude Latitude Dendera Ti^^-^- { ^-- : : Esneh Edfou Ombos Syene Isle I'hilae .... 30° 21 30° 20 4 30° 19 16 30° 14 19 30° 33 4 30° 38 39 30° 34 19 30" 33 46 2('.° 10 25" 44 15 25° 42 55 25° 49 39 25° 24° 28 24° 8 6 24" 3 45 This monument of untiring and successful diligence deserves to be greeted with respect; it contrasts with the execrable taste of the idle tourists who have scribbled over and defaced inscriptions within the tem]ile, with their own insignificant names. Opposite the French table an Italian learned society (Feb. 9, 1841) have erected another showing the variation of the compass (declina/.ione dell' ago magnelico) as lO'oC". The inscription is signed 'Marina genio' etc. b. The Great Peristyle Court and its Additions. The great *Peristyle Court (PI. A) is believed by important authorities to have been built by the rulers of the 22nd Dynasty. The oldest part of the temple is the sanctuary (p. 134j, situated much farther to the E. Probably the clearest view of the growth and historical development of the great house of Ammon wouM be ol)lained l)y bcfrinning there and thence visiting tho later portions in the order of their erection; but in following out this plan we should be obliged to diverge irregularly hither and thither from the main lines, and so would miss much of tho effect designed by the builders. The influi'iu'C of tho god was supposed to radiate from within outwards; while the procession ofhis adorers advanced slowly towards Ammon from without inwards. The sanctuary was the flnal, unapproachable goal of tho pious, few of whom were permitted to penetrate farther than the peristyle court. Tho hypostyle hall was indeed open to certain privileged worshippers, but only tho 'initi- ated' were allowed to approach any nearer to tho holy of holies. That s.-icred chamber itself might only bo entered by tho high-priest and the king, the representative of tho god upon earth. Tho arrange- mi'iit of the peristyle and succeeding chambers indicate in the clearest m.anncr the nature of the services celebrated within them. at Thebes. KARNAK. 1 1 . Jioute. 119 The Architectonic Features of the court must be noticed before we proceed to examine its uses. It is 275 ft. deep and 338 ft. wide, and covers an area of 9755 sq.yds. On each side a kind of colonnade or stoa is formed by a row of columns and the exterior wall. Eighteen columns still stand on the left side, but the row on the right was in- terrupted by Ramses 111., who has here placed a temple (PI. C), pro- jecting considerably beyond the S. wall, and at right angles to it. Both rows of columns are unsculptured. Another small temple (PI. B) was built in the N.E. angle of the court by Seti II. Merenptah. Both of these smaller temples are later additions, with no reference to the purpose of the court, and they interfere with the effect designed by the original builder. The double row of huge columns in front of the doorway of the second pylon was, on the other hand, part of the original plan. The lofty shafts, which were terminated by calyx- capitals of gigantic proportions, taper towards the top, and contract rapidly immediately aliove the convex bases on which they stand. Y The calyx of the capitals was surroiindeil with petals, from amidst which slender marsh-plants sprang. In the centre of each was a cubical abacus, serving as a pedestal for an image of a god. Mariette conjectured that a small hypjethral temple (like that at Philae) stood in front of the second pylon, and that not only was there an addi- tional (sixth) pair of columns adjoining the others hut that the vaulting of the whole was rendered possible by two central columns between the pairs at each end which are about 36 ft. apart. As, however , there is not the faintest trace of these conjectural six columns , it is perhaps more probable that this colonnade repre- sents a processional or triumphal avenue, formerly covered only by a velarium, and that the continuation of it is to be recognized iu the elevated central row of columns in the hypostyle hall ( p. 125). Of the original columns only five can now be traced on the left side, and one on the right, close to the second pylon, which termi- nates the peristyle on the E. Three still show about '/s of the original height, one about t/4, and another about 1/0 ; the only com- plete column is on the right. Upon this last Psammetikh I., of the 26th Dyn., has placed his name over that of the Ethiopian Taharka, of the 25th Dyn. ; above, on the abacus, is the name of Ptolemy IV. Pliilopator, which also appears on the recently excavated base of one of the broken columns. The shaft is composed of 36 courses of carefully hewn stone, the capital of 5 courses. The heiglitis 69 ft.; the greatest breadth of the capital 16 ft., the circumference at the top 49 ft. — • The above-mentioned second pylon, on the E. side of the court, is mostly in ruins. Before the doorway is an antecham- ber (PI. b), the entrance to which was flanked by two statues of Ramses II. The figure on the left side has fallen down ; that on the right, broken at the top, displays excellent workmanship, especially intlielegs, and recalls the Daedalian figures of the earliest ^ 120 Route 11. KAUNAK. East Bank We may mention here in anticipation thattlie roof of the follow- ing hypostyle hall was supported by a perfect forest of papyrus-bud columns, through the midst of which a broad passage was marked by calyx-columns, closely resembling the detached pairs of columns in the lirst court (comp. p. 126). At this point we first obtain a clear idea of the arrangement of this portion of the temple, and the same remark applies also to all the rooms between it and the sanc- tuary. It should also be remembered tliat tlie number of those privileged to follow and behoM the procession gradually decreased from room to room as the sanctuary was approached. Headed by the king or chief priest, the crowd of priests, bearing the standards, symbols, and images of the gods, passed through the doorway of the first pylon into the peristyle court. The double row of calyx- capitals served at once to indicate their passage and to mark the limits beyond which tho pious spectators must not press. The sacred procession rolled on slowly heneuth the sliade of the velarium and entered the hypostyle hall through the second pylon. Many of those who were permitted to enter tho flrst court had there to quit the procession and to take up their positions to the right and left of the calyx-columns, ethers again were not permitted to advance farther than the hypostyle, and so with each room until the sanc- tuary was reached. To this day^the clearly deflned passage thither may be traced, and it will be observed that at each successive stage the place appointed for those who had to quit tho procession is smaller than the preceding. Later AnniTioNs in the Peristyle Court. 1. The Small Temple of Seti II. Merenptah (I'l. R), in the N.E. angle of the court, to our Icl't as we enter by tho lirst pylon. This building, which has only recently been made partly accessible. Is built of grey sandstone, except beside the three doors, where a reildish quartzose sandstone has been used. The figure of the god 8eth has everywhere been erased from the name of the builder. Only a small portion of tho walls is entirely sculptured ; and the re- presentations that are still extant show that the temple was dedicated to tho Tlieban triad. Amnion, Muth, aiul Khuns\i. In the chamber entered by the W. (left) door appears tho sacred boat of the goddess Muth, to whom Seti Merenptah, accompanied by his son, offers a libation. The richly dressed boy is called 'royal prince' ami 'lieir to the crown'. Adjacent is the figure of tho helmeled I'liaraoh, presenting the imago of tho goddess of truth to Amnion and Khunsu. 2. The Temple of Ramses III. (PI. C), dedicated to Amnion, interrupting the S. wall of the peristyle court. The gie.it llarrii Pupi/riis, wliicli i^ cliicfly cnnccrnccl with the crnction and ciiiii]iiiicnt of tomplci, details no fewer tlian six huildin^s and five estates in the vicinity of Thehcs, distinguished tiy the tcriiis Hat (temple), I'll (lioiiso), Mennicnu fjiasture), adding after eacli oik^ of tlic two names of tlio king and froqiiontly also an additional name, such as 'tliy victory at Thebes. KARNAK. IJ. Route. 121 thou makest abiding fdr all eternity'. The personnel assigned to these foundations is reckoneil at 86,486 individuals, of which 62,626 belonged to the largest temple (at Medinet-Habul. The above-mentioned Temple C. bore the name Fa Ramses hak an (House of Ramses, prince of Heliopolis) and had 2623 priests and attendants. The biiilding is in form a complete temple, but in view of the enormous dimensions of its surroundings can claim only the cha- racter of a chapel. Its total length is 170 ft. The Pylon with the entrance door is much injured, especially at the top. l>eyotid it is a Peristyle Court (PI. a), with eight ()siris-pillars on each side, and at the end four caryatide pillars forming a Passage (PI. p), whence a door leads to a small Hypostyle (PI. •{), with eight papyrus-bud ca- pitals. Finally come tlie chambers of the Sanctuary (PI. o). Sculp- ture is not wanting in this temple, which owes its origin to the wealthy founder of the Memnonium at Medinet Ilabu (p. 174). This most lavish of Egyptian kings had already founded within the limits of the temple of Ammon the temple of Khunsu (p. 148) as a worthy symbol of his liberality to the gods; and that fact explains the comparative smallness of the temple before us. The exterior of the pylons was adorned with representations expressing the gratitude of the Pharaoh to the god for victory in battle. On the Left Wing (E.) Ramses III., wearing the crown of Upper Egypt /'), holds a band of prisoners by the hair and raises his sword for a blow which 1 must strike off all their heads at once. Ammon, standing in front of I him, hands him the sword of victory, and delivers to him chained together the representatives of the vanquished peoples, who appear in three rows. In the first two rows are the conquered nations of the south, in the third row those of the north. On the Right Wing are similar representations, the king here wearing the crown of Lower Egypt sJ . In the doorway , Ramses III. receives from Ammon the symbol of life, etc. On the right side-wall of the pylons are representations of battles and captives, which were concealed by the colonnade, a conclusive proof that the circumference of the court cannot date from Ramses II. In the peristyle court (PI. a) the following inscription occurs on the architrave of the caryatid passage on the right. (We omit the lengthy introductory titles of the king.) 'Ramses, king of Upper aud Lower Egypt, prince of Heliopolis (i.e. Ramses III.), the living and beneficent god, vrho resembles Ka that lightens the world with his beams on the E. and W. horizon, the lord of beams, like the sun's disc in the heavens. Men extol him, when they behold Ramses III., the king of Upper and Lower Egyj)!, the son of the sun, the lord of the diadems, Ramses the prince of Helio- polis, who built this monument for his father Ammon-Ua, the king of the gods. He erected anew (m maui) the building known as Pa Ramses bak an (princes of Heliopolis), as a house for Ammon, of white and well- hewn stone, finishing it with everlasting work'. Tlie inscription (injured) goes on to describe the king as a darling of Ammon, a victory-bringing Horns, who is as rich in years as Turn, a king and protector of Egypt, who overthrows the alien peoples, etc. 122 Rnutelh KARNAK. East Bank The lower parts, especially in the sanctuary-chambers, are covered with rubbish. A long List of Offerings on the left (E.) exterior wall is of some interest. It records that Ramses III., in the month Payni in the IGth year of his reign, decreed that gifts for his lather Aramon-Ra, the king of the gods, should be laid upon the silver altar, such as provisions, sacrificial cakes, etc. Then follow some details (injured) as to the amount of the offerings. 3. The Portique des Bubastites ( Portico of the Buhastites ; PI. a), so called by t hampoilion, is the part of the court between the left (E. ) wall of the temple just described and the S. part [i.e. the far- thest to the right) of the second pylon. This space, only 43 ft. wide, had a door admitting to the temple from the 8. , and is to be regarded as the E. end of the colonnade which lined the S. wall of the court. Two unsculptured papyrus -bud columns divide it from the rest of the court. Numerous inscriptions dating from the '11r\(\ Dyn., which originated in Bubastis, cover the walls, and contain impor- tant material for the history of that period. This dynasty succeeded the inglorious line of priest-kings, who seized the throne of Thebes after the self-indulgent Dilers of the '20th dynasty. Their names are rather .Semitic than Egyptian , a circumstance that need cause no surprise when we remember that Bubastis is named as their home, a city in theE. part of the Delta which was settled by Semitic tribes. As their names appear to be of Aramaic origin it is not impossible that they were placed upon the throne of the Pharaohs by the Assyrian conquerors who are mentioned in the cuneiform inscriptions of Mesopotamia , though the Egyptian hieroglyphics ignore them. Like their predecessors of the ^Ist l^yn., they retained the chief priesthood in their own control, apparently by committing this office to their heirs. In the hall in which we now are the king appears several times with the crowii-prince, who is named 'first prophet of Ammon-Ra'; and the crown -prince occurs also without his father. Sheshenk I. probably began the decoration of the building, for his name appears in the usual place for the de- dication-inscription, i.e. on the architrave above the columns. The names of Osorkon I. and Takelut I. also occur. The last-named king appears before Ammon-Ra accompanied by his sou Osorkon, dad in the priestly panther-skin; and Osorkon also occurs alone offering saiirillce to Ammon. On the E. wall is a double painting representing Ammon to the right and left, wearing the feather- crown and seated on a throne, while the deceased son of the same O.sorkon approaches in priestly garb to offer sacrifice. Heneath is a long but unfortunately damaged Inscription, dating from the l'2th year of Takelut II., which mentions a remarkable event said to have occurred in the ri-ign of the father of that prince (probably .Sheshenk II.). The passage in question is not absolutely clear, but this mucli may be gathered with certainty, viz. that on tho2;ith Mesori in the Ifuh year of the father of Takelut II., something iin- at Thebes. KARNAK. J 7. Route. 123 usual happened to the moon, which phinge, attracted his attention especially; it reads Mudah (Juda) Malck', and may be translated king of Judah. The heads of the busts above the name-labels, with their characteristic Semitic features, are suf- ticient by themselves to prove that only places could be here sitrnilied that were inhabited by peoples related to the Jews. Of the 120 name-labels only a few can be identified with certainty %vith otherwise known names of places in Palestine, such as Rabbath (last ring of the first row), Taanach, Shuneiu, Uehob, Hapharaim, Adullain, Mahanaim, Gibeon, Helh-IIoron, Kede- moth, AJalou (in the second row). Several symbols have re- 1 cently been obliterated by the whitewash used to preserve the V^^y wall, and some of the name-labels have also been destroyed, as ejj. Megiddo at the bcginnin.i of the third row. The rest of the inscriptions, which are couched in the usual emphatic style, give no farther information as to the campaign. We return to tlie peristyle court and proceed to the Second Pylon (PL IIJ. The left or N. side has fallen and the right side is sadly damaged. The colossi of Ramses IT., which guarded the projecting entrance, have already been mentioned on p. 119. Hut neither Ramses II., as appearances might suggest, nor even his father Seti I. built this pylon, hut the predecessor and father of the latter, Ramses I., who also planned the hypostyle hall, afterwards adorned by Seti I. and Ramses the Great. Tiie cartouches of Ramses II. frequently occur sunk instead of being embossed, because they have been placed on spots previously occupied by the older cartouches of Ramfes I. or Seti I. The same is tlie case on the back of the N. pylon, whereas on the back of tlie S. pylon, which was erected by Ramses II., his name appears In genuine bas-relief. In the doorway (PI. c), wliere the cartouches of Ramses I., Seti I., and Ramses II. arefound, an intervening door was erected by Ptolemy VII. Philometor I ^ m) ^^^ Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II., during their joint-reigit (170-165 B.C.). The lintel and upper parts of tliis latter doorway are wanting, btit the jambs are in good pre- servation, with expressions of homage to Animon and his fellow- gods. On tlie inner side (to the left) of the earlier doorway appears Ramses II. kneel ins; before Amnion and receiving the symbol of kingship. Behind him stands the goddess Miith, and Khunsu, with the moon's disc on his heail, conducts Ptolemy VII. Philometor to behold the god Amnion. Probably the representation is a restoration by Pliiloiiietor of an older work on the same spot. at Thebes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 125 c. The Great Hypostyle Hall. Tho **Hypostyle Hall of Kariiak (PI. D) was commenced under the 18th Dyn. liy Ramses I., completed by Seti I. (19tli Dyn.), and enriched with new sculptures wherever there was room by Seti's son Ramses II. Its breadth (inside measurement) is 338 ft., its depth 170 ft., and its area 5450 square yards, an area spacious enough to accommodate the entire church of Notre Dame at Paris. Tho roof is supported by 134 columns, of which the central row is higher than the others. Each of the 12 columns in this row is 113/5 ft. in diameter and upwards of 32 ft. in circumference, i.e. as Hypostyle Hall of Karnak. (From Maspero's Arche'ologie egyptienne.) large as Trajan's Column in Rome or the Vendome Column in Paris. It requires six men with outstretched arms to span one of tliese huge columns. Their height is 69 ft., that of the capitals 11 ft. The remaining 122 columns are each 421/2 ft. in height and 271/2 ft- in circumference, and have papyrus-bud capitals. 'It is impossible', says Lepsius, 'to describe the impression experienced by everyone who enters this forest of columns for the first time, and passes from TOW to row, amidst the lofty figures of gods and kings, projecting, some in full relief, some in half relief, from tlie columns on whiih i2Q Route II. KARNAK. East Bank tbey are represented'. Many of tLe columns are prostrate, others lean as thoufrli on the verge of falling, and architrave and roof- slabs have either fallen or seem on the point of doing so. Yet the whole is so well-preserved that we never forget that we are in a colonnaded hall, and the ruinous appearance so far from destroy- ing the general impression adds a picturesque charm to it. The enormous proportions of tliis structure are perhaps best appreciated, if vre place ourselves in the wide doorway of the second pylon and look through the double row of huge calyx-columns towards the sanctuary, i.e. towards the E. The magic influence of the place is fully felt in the morning or evening, or by moonlight, when the columns cast intense black shadows on each other. Roof. The processional route (p. 119) was distinguished hy placing on each side of it higher columns than in the rest of the temple. These higher columns have calyx-capitals, on which rest cubical abaci, supporting tlie massive architraves which run jiarallel with the main axis of the temple. Above the architrave another small erection is visible. The lower columns immediately adjacent on both sides were connected with this inner row, by erecting upon them square pillars, separated by windows, aiid united with ea(;h other by means of a long architrave, above which another smaller erection is observed. Only one of the windows is now extant, and that in imperfect preservation. The union of these four rows under a common roof thus provided a lighted passage, about 78 ft. high (about 32 ft. higher than the rest of the hall), through the centre of the colonnaded hall. The shape of the columns in the outer rows is showm in Vol. I., p. lG4b; the calyx-capitals of the two inner rows in Vol. I., \k 165a. — Tlie Columns are not monolithic, but are built, like luige watch-towers, of hewn stones. The central rows have smooth shafts and enormous calyx-capitals with curved edges. Five baiuls at the neck of the column fasten the striped petals and slender water-plants, which, mingled with royal cartouches and other decorations, cling to the calyx. Each capital resembles a gigantic goblet. Unfortunately the minuteness of the ornamentation, es])ecially on the upi)er parts, is not very suitable for the huge proportions of the columns. All the columns, both in the inner and in the outer row, are adorned with the name of Kanises II. aiul various embellishments. The sliafls in every case bore sunk reliefs ('en creux'), the former painting in which is still traceable at j)la'es. 'J'lie inscriptions and representations present, on the whole, but little variety; but in a few consideralde dif- ferences may be noted as regards the persons of tlio gods and the gifts which thoy received or bestowed. This is specially the I'ase with the columns. Those in the first six rows to the N. have, towards the top, the cartouche of Soti I., and farther down that of Ramses IV.; the remaining rows liavo Ramses II. at the top and Ramses IV. below. Ramses III., Ramses VI., and Ramses Xlll. at Thebes. KARNAK. '^ 11. Route. 127 have also recorded their names, sometimes flUing in vacant spaces and sometimes scratching out older names. On the capitals tlie cartouches of Ramses II. or of his more immediate successors are found; on the border of the extreme top of the shaft, this same Pliaroah is usually named king of Upper and Lower Egypt, lord of both worlds, son of the sun, lord of the iliadems, etc. The broader Held beneath exhibits almost universally vertical cartouches, sur- mounted witli the feathers /Ju , and standing upon the symbol of gold P"!*^. On the largest field, still lower, the king appears twice; once sacrificing to the god, and once with the celestials offering him emblems, generally symbolizing in some familiar way one of the higher blessings of life. The simple inscriptions repeat each other over and over again. They begin: 'I give thee', or, 'I grant thee', or else mention a visit of the king to the temple. The carvings and hieroglyphics placed by Ramses II. are much inferior to those dating from the reign of his| father Seti I., a fact we have already noticed at Abydos. By far tlie most important place among the gods here is filled by Ammon, Mutli, and Khiinsu, the Theban triad (Vol. I., p. 138). At Karnak Ammon was conceived of in two capacities, which most be distinguished from each other; he was in the first place Ammon Generator, in the second place Ammon-Ra, the king of the goils. Ammon may be identified by his featlier-crown, Khunsu by the crescent on his head and the lock on his temples, and Mrith by the vulture-cap. The other gods that appear with them may be easily identified with the help of the introduction on the Religion of Ancient Egypt (Vol. I., p. 124). On the architrave are some clearly cut inscriptions, of which a few deviate from the usual formulae. One of these, dating from Seti I., on the architrave above the bud- columns in the first cross-row to the E. (right), is as follows: 'He is a king, mounting his horse like the son of Isis (Horus). Ho is an archer of a mighty arm and like the (god of war) Mentu a great wall of brass. He is the protector of his soldiers, wlieu they thirst in the hollow way, on the day of battle. No opposition is offered to him from the hundred thousand brave hearts that are united in one place'. In the Inscriptions the king usually boasts of having erected an eternal and magnificent building in the house of his father Ammon, of founding festivals, or of offering great treasures. d. The North Exterior Wall of the Hypostyle. \ We turn to the left (N.) from the entrance to the Hypostyle Hall, and in the N. wall, between the 4th and 5th rows of columns from the pylon, reach a door (PI. d), through which we pass. The out- side of the temple-wall is covered with inscriptions and martial representations. These begin on the N. part of the E. wall of the 128 Route 11. KARNAK. Emt Bank temple, which we reach by proceeding at once to the right (K.), afterwards returning to the N. wall in following the description below. On the 7". Wall the reliefs are in two divisions, an upper and a lower. The series begins at the top, to the left of the beholder. Here we see King Seti alighting from his chariot, in a well-wooded country belonging to the tribes of the Uemenen (Armenians! and Keteniiu (Syrians). These are compelled to fell trees, which are leafy and seem to be tall and slender; and were probably to be used for ship-building (as Solomon used the trees felled by the people of Hiram) or for flag-staffs. The physiognomies of the Asiatics are distinctly characterized. The fortress appearing behind tlie horse is named 'Katbar to the N. of Henuma'. In the representation below the king is shown driving in his chariot above the slain. Beside the horses, which drew the king on state occasions, are their names ; the king's favourite horse is here called 'Victory in Thebes'. — The Tema en pa Kanana, the fortress Kanana, is overcome. This was Seti's first great exploit, which he performed, as the inscription informs us, in tlie first year of liis reign, when he overthrew the Shasu, the Semitic neighbours of Egypt from Zav (Peiusium) to tlie fortress of Kanana (Canaan). 'His majesty was towards them as a furious lion. They were transformed to corpses, hewn down in their blood within their valleys'. Confused heaps of slain appear below the fortress (to the left). An Asiatic, with a hat, prays with upraised hands for mercy; several fall pierced with arrows. Only one escapes from among ten thousand to proclaim in distant lands the bravery of the king. — We now reach the N. Wall^ where also there is an upper and a lower series of representations. In the first scene (to the extreme left), above, the army has penetrated far enough to storm the fortress of Ninua (Nineveh), in the land of the Chaldaeans. The stream which washes the stronghold is the Tigris. The inhabitants of the country, who are represented full face some- what awkwardly and contrary to the usual Egyptian method, conceal themsidves amonj; trees. 'I'heking, advancing to the attack in his chariot (his head and that of his galloping horse have been broken off) seizes two of them standing in their chariot, and shoots arrows against the mounted foes. In the adjoining scene (nearly obliterated) the king is binding captives with his own hand, and drags others behind his chariot; to the right he appears drag- ging four captives with him and drawing others in two rows behind him. A single line inscription between the rows names these prisoners tlie mighty princes of the Uetennu ( Syrians or Assyrians). In tJie representation liigher up, beyond a damaged portion of the wall, the king appears in his chariot, with his right hand raised and holding in his le't his bow and the cords to which other two rows of prisoners (described as Retennu hart, or Upper Syrians) are fastened. The scene takes place before Ihe Thebaii triad, Am- mon, Muth, and Khunsu, to whom the king ahso presents costly at Tliebes. KARNAK. II. Route. 129 vessels of silver, gold, kliosbet (lapis-Iazuli), and mafok (iiia- larhite.) In the corresponding scenes in the lower row the king appears in his chariot (at the left end of the N. wall), with his back turned to the great ones of the Khara (Syrians). He drives past several castles, built by himself, some of them described as water-stations; beside the lower ones is a small fresh-water lake. In the second scene the king is shown in his chariot, shooting arrows against hi,s foes, who are named 'Shasu' (Beduins). Fortified water-stations appear here also and a beacon or watch-tower of King Uamenma. The following representation is one of the most remarkable in Egypt, for it clearly proves that a kind of Suez Canal, i.e. a canal dividing Africa from Egypt, existed as early as the time of Seti I. The relief represents the king on his homeward journey. His spirited horses prance along before the light chariot, which carries only the Pharoah and the heads of his slain enemies. (The king's favourite horse is named 'Amnion gives the sword'.) In his left hand the king holds the reins and his bow, and in his right the sword of victory, the scourge , and a number of cords to which pinioned enemies are fastened. Three of the latter he drags after him, and three rows of Asiatics fastened together by the neck precede the horses. The bastions with reservoirs which the procession has to pass are represented at the foot of the relief, in accordance with the peculiar Egyptian system of perspective. The desert-station imme- diately beside the hind hoofs of the king's horses is called Migdol of King Ramenma. (Migdol is a Semitic word meaning a fortified tower generally.) Between the hind and forelegs of the horses appears another fortress, called the castle of the lions. The train of return- ing warriors is separated from their Egyptian fatherland by a canal full of crocodiles. That this is not merely an arm of the Nile is in- dicated by an inscription above the bridge, to the right, which names it Tatenat, i.e. literally 'the cutting'. The crocodiles, which do not live in salt water, show that this canal was supplied from the Nile ; and the two groups of figures on the farther bank show that it marked the boundary of Egypt. In the upper group are priests and grandees, with curious nosegays in their hands, who await the Pharaoh with low obeisances; in the lower group the women raise their hands in greeting to the returi\i!!g king, who brings with him their husbands and sons. The inscription runs : 'The priests, the great ones, and the princes of Upper and Lower Egypt approach to welcome the good god (i.e. the king) on his re- turn from the Syrian land, with enormous booty. Never has tho like happened since the time of the god', i.e. probably since the time of Ra. — The 'cutting' which thus divided Asia and Africa can only be the canal by means of which the early Pharaohs eji- deavoured to unite the Nile with the Red Sea (comp. Vol. I., p. 427), the through communication from the Red Sea to tiie Mediterranean B.\EDEiiEus Upper Egypt. 9 130 Route 11. KARNAK. East Bank being then completed 1>y the Pelusiac arm of the Nile. The canal, frequently suffered to fall into disuse, was restored by Nekho (7th cent. B.C.) and at a later period by Darius I. Communication between the Nile and the Red Sea was maintained even under the Arabs, but it was afterwards interrupted, and not restored until the construction of the present fresh-water canal by Lesseps. The bastions which defended it are those that compelled the Jews during the Exodus to change their N.K. route at Ethani or Etam, i.e. the fortified places (khetem), and to turn towards the Ked Sea on the S. The relief, which is gradually becoming more and more indistinct, deserves careful study. The conqueror of the Semites, who is here joyfully welcomed as he approaches in his chariot, is the ancestor of the Pharaoh of the Bible narrative who perished in the Red Sea. The victorious monarch next appears, after his arrival at Thebes. As in the upper representation, he conducts to Amnion two rows of rebellious Asiatic princes, captured in the land of the Hetennu, and presents to the god magnificent vessels. We have now returned to the door by which we left the hypo- style hall. It is adorned with the name of Ramses the Great. To the right and left are two colossal companion reliefs, in which Ammon is represented holding several rows of captives by cords, and presenting the weapons of victory toKiiigSeti, who raises his sword against a band of foes whom he holds by the hair. The name-rings on both sides refer to the conquered tribes. The legend on the relief to the left is noteworthy : 'He smites the great ones of the Annu Mentau (with the symbols of the shepherds), all the remote regions, all lands, the Fenekhu (Phcenicians) of the sea-region, the Sati, the great circle of the green ocean' (>.e. the Mediterranean Sea). We turn next to the representation on the Right ( W.) Side of the door. To the extreme right, at the corner of Pylon II., above, we see the storming of Katesh in the land of Amara (the Amorites). This is the fortress which offered such serious resistance to the army of Tutmes III., and it was the greatest obstacle to the victorious progress of the Egyptian army in the wars of Seti and his son Ramses, The scene is depicted with great vividness. The Aramaic foes of the king (the Kheta) appear both on foot and in chariots; and Seti overcomes his foes fighting also on foot and in his chariot. The foes, who wear curious peaked hoods, flee in wild confusion. The Egyptian artist here shows some appreciation of landscape effects. A forest region is represented, though somewhat crudely, with six different kinds of trees and shrubs. A herd of cattle be- longing to the Kheta, terrified by the approach of the king, fly from their pasture, accompanied by the herdsmen, who toss their arms in despair. Katesh is taken, and the defenders are thrown from the walls. This Is the only relief that has been preserved in the upper row. at Thebes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 131 In the second row, to the right, the king in his chariot dashes against the discomfited foe, and aims a blow at a hostile leader, distinguished by a feather. Next the king on foot deals the finishing blow with his lance to an officer, who has been brought to his knees. To the left the victorious monarch fares homeward, 'preceded by two rows of prisoners, named 'hi anta en tahi'. The small figure behind the chariot is the crown-prince Ramses. Then follows the presentation of the prisoners, who are called Retennu and Tahennu (i.e. crystal-coloured, white), to Ammon, Muth, and Khunsu, who also receive the captured gold and vessels. — Similar representa- tions occupy the lowest row. To the right is the pursuit of the Kheta in their chariots. The inscription above compares the king to Sutekh and Baal, to a wolf and a lion, that roams through the by-paths, to a bull that destroys the enemy in their blood. To the left is the homeward journey. The king leads captives on foot, and behind him is a chariot containing fettered prisoners, and preceded by two rows of the same. He brings his captives to the Theban triad, who are here accompanied by the goddess Mat. There also are Re- tennu, brought by the king from the land of Kheta 'to fill the lordly palace of Ammon'. e. The older E. part of the Temple of Ammon. 1. From the Hypostyle Hall to the Sanctuary. We now return to the central row of lofty columns with the calyx-capitals, and follow it eastwards to Pylon III., which we pass through on our way towards the sanctuary, like the more highly pri- vileged worshippers admitted to the temple in early times. This part of the temple has been terribly destroyed, but enough has been left standing to afford an idea of the general arrangement. The picturesque effect of the ruinous scene is enhanced by the variety of artistic forms employed, and by the tall and slender shape of the largest obelisk in Egypt, rising from the midst of the ruins, and testifying to the pastprond splendour of this truly royal edifice, which has been ruthlessly trodden under foot by the monotonous cycle of years and shattered by war and earthquakes. — The nearer we approach to the sanctuary the older are the parts of the temple we traverse. The inscriptions afford materials for ascertaining the date of each different portion ; while the practised eye will not find it difficult to support the conclusions thus arrived at by comparison of the successive styles of art. We here find the polygonal pillar- 1 column and the finely carved bnd- columns, bearing clear and un- mistakeable evidence as to the idea, to which this order owed its I origin. The third pylon seems to have marked the limit of the temple under the early empire, before the gigantic buildings of the 19th Dyn. were added. The W. side of this pylon, within the great hypostyle-hall, still shows the incisions made in the wall 9* 132 Route 1 J. KARNAK. East Bank for the support of the tlag-staves. The pylons lying to the S. were built by the kings of the 18th Dyii., and were connected with the side of the great temple of Ammon, wlience they were reached l)y a door between Pylon III and Pylon IV (p. 145). On the rear of the left side of Pylon III is a long inscription (unfortnnatoly imperfect at the top), recording the gifts of Aiueu- hotep III. to the god Ammon ; and to the left is the representation of several ships, recording a festival voyage instituted by the king in honour of the god in his naos. The sanctuary exii^ted before the Hyksos period, certainly under the 12th Dyn., and the conquerors and expeUers of the Intruders erected in honour of .\mnion suc- cessive additions, increasing in size as they receded from the sanctuary. On passing through the third ruined pylon into the Central Court (PI. E), we come first upon two Obelisks, of which, however, one has been destroyed, though Pococke saw them both erect in 1738. The standing obelisk (PI. g) is, like most others, made of granite from the quarries of Syene (Assuan). It is 76 ft. high and stands upon abase 6 ft. square. Only the lower portions of the inscriptions on its faces are seriously injured. The central rows are in larger and finer hieroglyphics than the side-rows. The former date from the time of Tutnies I., the latter contain the names of later appropriators of this monument. The usual formulae occur in these inscriptions; Tutraes I., among other titles, is named the victory-bringing Ilorus, who fulfils the years and enlivens the hearts. Ho, 'the lovely son of the sun, erected this monument in honour of his father Ammon, lord of the throne of the world, who is wor- shipped in E. Thebes ('Apet'j'. In front of this obelisk are the remains of a cubical basis , which probably served to support a colossus. The two obelisks and the colossus marked the entrance to the temple in the reign of Tutnies I. Next follows Pylon IV, in such a ruinous condition that its ori- ginal form cannot be ascertained. It dates from the time of Tut- mes I., who is represented by the Osiris-columns attached to its inner (E.) side. Only the N. door-pillar is now standing. It bears an expre-sssion of homage to Ammon from Tutmes IV. ( Q |'|' "" | i^ j, but beneath the arm of the king is a short inscription, in whicli llio Ethiopian Sabako records a restoration of the temjjle by himself. A similar reference to his campaigns appears in the inscription on the left side. Seti IT. has also placed his name upon this doorway. The doorway closing the fourth pylon on the E. fell during the inundation of ISfi:"). Beyond its site are a few Tuineil fragments of a structure, the original arrangement of which is only to be under- stood on the supposition that five couples of columns stood on the left and six couples on the right, and that two couples were removed from each side to make room for two imposing Obelisks. The at Thebes. KARNAK. 2 2. Route. 133 Right Obelisk has been overthrown, and the fragments of its shattered shaft are seen lying scattered around. The top has fallen some distance to the N. The *Left Obelisk (PI. h), still standing, is the largest obelisk in Egypt. The total height was estimated by the engineers of Napoleon's expedition at 97^'2 ft., its diameter at the base 81/9 ft., its mass 4873 cubic ft., anlTits weight 3673 tons.i It is made of fine red granite, and the inscriptions upon it are among the finest specimens of the grand style, which flourished at the date of its erection. Queen Hatasu Khnumt-Amen, who was regent for her brother Tutmes III. during his minority, and who erected this momiment, was a true child of the Egyptian 'age of chivalry' which did not close until the reign of AmenhotepIV., the sun-worshipper. Her name will frequently be met with again, especially in her terrace-temple at Der el-bahri (p. '2'23). She was the half-sister of two kings (Tutmes II. and Tutmes III.), and was named queen by her father Tutmes I., probably because her mother was of purer royal blood than the mother of her half-brothers. After her father's death she reigned in her own name along with Tut- mes II., whom she married, and on her husband's decease she ruled on behalf of Tutmes III., who appears also to have been her son- in-law. Masculine in disposition, she carried on important wars and reared large buildings. The less energetic Tutmes II. yielded to the guardianship of his sister and wife, but Tutmes III. appears to have early compelled her to relinquish to him the crown of Lower Egypt. After her death he caused her name to be chiselled out in some places and to be replaced by his own in others — ■ an instance of the irreverent disfigurement of monuments only too common in ancient Egypt. Hatasu Khnumt-Amen , the royal Amazon, caused herself to be represented with the ornaments of the male Pharaohs, and even with a beard. The beautifully carved central inscription, formerly inlaid with electrum or silver-gilt, contains her name alone ; though she permitted her brother's name to appear at the sides. Later usurpers have not entirely spared even this noble monument. The side-inscriptions contain short sentences with the formulae usually employed for the presentation of gifts and the bestowing of the blessings of life, while the central-inscriptions refer to the dedication of the obelisks. One of the inscriptions is as follows : 'The mistress of the diadems, whose years do not wither (literally 'are green or fre.sh'), the victory-bringing Horus, etc., Ha- tasu, erected this as a monument to her father Ammon, the lord of the thrones of both lands, while she reared two obelisks to him in front of the pylon of Ammon Arsaphes, adorned with statues, and inlaid it with a profusion of electrum (silver-gilt), in order that it miglit shine over both lands like the sun's disc. Never since the t The tallest known ol3eli.sk is that in the piazza in front of the La- teran at Rome, which is 105 ft. high. The other obelisks at Rome are sanaller than the one in the text. 134 Route 11. KARNAK. East Bank creation of the world has anything been made like what has been erected by the child of the sun Khnunit-Amen Tlatasu, who bestows life, eternal like the sun'. The queen is uniformly referred to by the feminine pronoun, though she is represented as a man and named 'a son of the sun'. On the rectangular base of the obelisk it is recorded (N. side) that the queen erected it in seven months in the 16th and 17th years of her reign, and (E. side) that it was overlaid with gold, that the queen herself weighed out the necessary gold in sacks and bars, so that (S. side) the people on both banks beheld it glittering at sunrise. — The obelisks are enclosed by a rectangular granite waU, 12-15 ft. in height. As we proceed towards the E., we pass another Pylon (PI. V), now completely ruined, and enter a Second Colonnade, with Osiris- figures representing Tutmes I. In each of tlie spaces to the right and left are five pairs of columns. Between them was a central space enclosed by Tutmes, with two of the Osiris-statues embedded in the wall. An inscription informs us that this surrounding wall was raised by Tutmes III. to cover the monuments of his father Tutmes I., 'so that the monuments of his father Usertesen ( 1 '2th Dyn.) and the monuments of his fathers, kings of Upper and Lower Egypt, should not be seen in presence of his own'. On the Avails of this narrow room, and on the right and left of the gateway with granite pillars which forms the opening of Pylon V, are the name-labels of the peoples conquered by Tutmes III. The S. peoples are named on the right: 'List of the S. lands, of the Anu Kenes from Khent-hun-nefer. defeated by His Majesty, he wroughthavoc amongthem, their multitude is not known, he brought all that belonged to them as living captives to Thebes, to fill the work-house of Ammon-Ra'. Beneath are 116 name-rings of con- quered tribes of the S. lands ; first those of Kush (Ethiopians : the Cush of Scripture), then those of Punt ( Arabians), and lastly the Libu (Libyans). On the left are the names of N. peoples, above which is an inscription: 'List of the tribes of the upper Retennu, captured by llis Majesty in Magda , the miserable place, their children brought by His Majesty as liAing captives to the fortified place in Apt-asu (Thebes) from his first campaign, as commanded him by Amnion, who has led hiur by good paths'. (^Two similar lists of N. and S. tribes, one of them being still more complete, are to be found on Pylon VIII, lying to the S. ; comp. p. 146.) We now traverse a kind of pronaos and enter the Sanctuary (PI. F), a chamber built of hard granite. The frequent repetition of the name of Philip Aridaeus on its walls might lead one at first to suppose that this apartment is a comparatively recent structure, dating from the reign of this royal puppet under whom the power was really wielded by Ptolemy I., son of Lagus ( Soter ). But Philip is here named only as restorer, not as founder, and certain frag- ments of statues found farther to the E., afford a proof, as we shall at Thehes. KARNAK. 11. Route. 135 ■ see, Ihat a temple must have stood upon this spot even before the epoch of the Hyksos. The building of every temple, without excep- tion, began -with the construction of the sanctuary; and beyond doubt, we are here standing in front of the most ancient part of the entire temple of Ammon. The granite pillars to the right and left, on which a large flower-caj yx appears between two smaller ones, also date from Tutmes III. Beyond these pillars and a small ante- chamber we reach the space iisually regarded as the Sanctuary. It is built entirely of pink granite, and is divided into two chambers, a very uncommon arrangement, although easily explained in the present case (see below). The front chamber, opening to the W., is 19 ft. long, the hinder one, opening to the E., over 25 ft. The roof has been completely destroyed; and a slab of granite, leaning obliquely downwards, seems as though on the point of falling. The latter was adorned wjthstarSj_and traces of colour are seen both upon it and upon the walls; but the sculptures were never fully completed, and the red outlines which served as a guide to the sculptor may still be made out here and there. The holes in which the door- , hinges were fixed, still show traces of verdigris, a proof that the I hinges were made of copper or bronze. The entire double-chamber and the pillars at its entrance date from the reign of Tutmes III. Mariette believed, probably with justice, that the actual sanctuary, or at least the original sanctuary of the l'2th Dyn., lay behind (i.e. to the E. of) the granite chamber, because that would alone explain the opening at the back of the chamber. A stele preserved in the museum at Gtzeh records that the temple of Karnak was in existence as early as the close of the 11th Dyn., though then of little importance. Wilkinson found the name of Amenemha I. (12th Dyn.) on a shattered pedestal to the S. of the sanctuary; and an inscription of the 21st Dyn., discovered by E. de Rouge in the southmost court of the temple (in the S.E. angle, to the right of the entrance by the pillars ) contains an announcement by a certain Amenhotep, chief priest under Ramses IX., that the sanctuary of the temple of Ammon was built in the time of User- tesen I. and then restored by himself. Two steles in the quarries of Ma'sara near Cairo (Vol. I., p. 406) record that King Aahmes, the conqueror of the Hyksos , caused stones to be quarried for the temple of Ammon, in the 21st and 22nd year of his reign. At all events the ancient sanctuary stood near the site of the one now be- fore us, if not actually on the same spot. Tutmes entirely rebuilt it, providing it with two doors, a peculiarity commented upon above. The W. entrance must have existed before his time , for it was turned towards the portions of the temple built by his ancestors. When Tutmes, however, added the large new struc- ture farther to the E. (p. 138), he connected it with the more an- cient holy place, dividing the latter in two and adding a W. door- way, so that it became the goal for the processions from the E., as 136 Route n. KARNAK. East Bank •well as from llio W. , and even for tliose advancing through the series of pylons on the S. — It is improbable that Cambyses caused the destruction of this 'heart' of the worship of Ammon, if we may nse tliat expression, and Nectanebus, who was a miglity Guilder would certainly have restored it, had it been injured. On the other liand, nothing is more likely than that one of the later I'ersian kings selected this temple for destruction after some abortive in- surrection on the part of the Egyptians, in order to punish the re- bellious province in its most sensitive part. Ptolemy Soter, who held the reins for Philip Arida;us, could have found no easier way to win the hearts of his new subjects than to restore the holy places destroyed by the l^ersians ; while to do so was to imitate Alex- ander the Great. In this particular case the work was not difficult, for though new sculptures had to be provided for the adytum, its walls were for the most part still standing. In the dedication- inscription in the interior of the sanctuary, Philip records merely that he had restored witii granite the sanctuary which was falling to ruin, 'which was built in the time of Tutmes III., king of Upper and l^ower Egypt' ; and a fragment of the older structure, bearing on its upper side a representation of Tutmes offering gifts to Ammon Generator, was used as a ceiling-slab in the restoration. The inscriptions and carvings on the Inner Walls of the lirst chamber are neither imposing nor specially interesting. They still exhibit traces of colour, especially of the blue pigment, which was lavishly used to make the figures stand out more distinctly from the reddish stone. Ammon in both his main characters (Amnion Generator and Ammon king of the godsl receives the homage of Philip, or rather of the representative of the royal house of .Macedon, for it is certain that Philip never entered the valley of the ISile. Muth of course also appears with Ammon, and once is depicted as embracing him, an absolutely unique representation. The traveller will see with surprise in this sacred spot a representation of tlie king, under the auspices of Khnum, catching birds with a net, and promising to bestow his booty ui>on Ammon. The JE.i'