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KEY MAP
to
ALPINE GUIDE
Eastern Alps.
Tht Niarverals refer to the SeatUnui
TheLetters to theSouXas
Edw^WeUer
jj-iJiJijiiii liiiPiS
:^iw=L
Balls Alpine Guides
CENTEAL TYEOL
INCLrDIXG
THE GEOSS GLOCKNER
BY
JOHN BALL, F.E.S., ME.LA., F.L.S., &c.
LATE PRESIDEXT OF THE ALPINE GLUE
LONDON
LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO.
1873
LIST OF MAPS.
Key Map .... To he 2)aslecl inside the c^'Ver at the beginning
Thk Easti^kx Alps— Gen t-ral I\Iap .... To face title-page
Paxoeama fuom the KiTTKEKHOKX .... To fuce po.ge 173
Th£ Gross Glockxee and its viciuity .... „ 223
ABBIIEVIATIOXS AND EXPLAXATIOXS.
The ioUowiug are the chief abbreviations used in this work : —
hrs., m. — for hours and raiinites. When used as a measure of distance, one
hour is meant tu indicate the distance which a tolerably good walker will traverse
in an hour, clear of halts, and having regard to the diihculty of the ground.
I:; eases where there is a considerable diiierence of height, the measure given is
intended as a mean between the time employed in ascending and descending,
being greater in the one case and less in the other.
ft., yds. — for feet and yards. The heights of mountains, &c., are given in
English feet above the level of the sea, and are generally indicated in the
manner usual in scientific books, by the figures being enclosed in brackets,
with a short stroke.
m. — for mile. Unless otherwise expressed, distances are given in English
statute miles.
rt., 1. — for right and left. The right side of a valley, stream, or glacier, is
that lying on the right hand of a person following the downward coarse of the
stream.
The point:? of the compass are indicated in the usual way.
Names of places are referred in the Index to the pages where some useful
information respecting them is to be found.
Throughout this work the reader is freqiiently referred for furtlier information
to the Section and Eoute where this is to be fouu'l. When the reference is
made to a passage occurring in the same Section, the Eoute alone is mentioned.
139
CHAPTER XIV.
CENTRAL TYEOL ALPS.
Section 48.
oetzthax disteict,
Ronte A — Landeck to Meran and Botzen
Route B — Imst to Meran, by the Oetzthal
and Timbler Joch
Route C — Sblden to the Vintschgau, by
the Fenderthal .
Route D — Solden to Meran, or Natums,
by the Gurglthal
Route E — Landeck to Feud, by the Kauu-
Bcrthal and Gebatsch Joch .
Route F —Imst to Fend, by the Pitzthal
Route G— Tour of the Oetzthal Alps.
Lengenfeld, or Sblden, to
St. Leonhard in the Pas-
eeyerthal ....
Section 49.
SrCBAY DISTRICT.
Innsbruck to Botzen, over the
Brenner Pass, by road
Innsbruck to Botzen, over the
Brenner Pass, by railway .
Innsbruck to Imst, or Oetz, by
the Selrainerthal
Selraih to Lengenfeld in the
Oetzthal ....
Innsbruck to Lengenfeld, by
the Stubaythal. Ascent of
the Schrankogl .
Neustift to Sblden. Ascent of
the Wilder Pf afE .
Neustift to Sterzing
Fend, or Gurgl, to the Brenner
Route A —
Route B —
Ronte C —
Route D —
Route E —
Route F —
Route G —
Route H —
Route I -
Route K-
Route A •
Route B -
Route C -
Route D-
Route E -
Route F -
Route G -
Route H -
C T,
-Sterzing to Meran, by the
JaufenPass.
-Botzen to Sterzing, through
the Samthal
Section 50.
zillebtfal district.
-Innsbruck to Lend, by the
Zillerthal and Pinzgau
- Zell to Sterzing, by the Pfits-
cher Joch ....
-Zell to Stafflach, by the Tuxer-
thal .....
- Imisbruck to Mayrhofen by the
Tuxer Gebirge .
-Zell to Bruneck, by tiie
Krimmler Taueni
- Zell to the Ahrenthal, by the
Zillergrund, or Sonder-
grund
-Taufers to Ginzling, by the
Miihhvalderthal ,
-St. Jakob in Pfitsch to the
Pusterthal, by the Pfunde-
rerthal ....
Route I — Kematen in Pfitsch to Brixen,
by the Valserthal . . 222
Section 51.
geossglockner district.
Route A— Brixen to Villach, by the
Pusterthal .... 2l'6
Route B — Lienz to Heiligenblut, Ascent
of the Grossglockner . . 234
Route C — Eruck. in Pinzgau, to Heili-
genblut, by the Fuscherthal.
Ascent of the Vischbaclihona
Route D — Kaprun to Heiligenblut, by
the Riffelthor . . . 250
Route E — Lienz to Mittersill, in Pinzgau,
by the Iselthal and Velber
Tauem .... 253
Route F — Windisch-Matrey to Neu-
ktrchen, or Wald, in Pinz-
gau. Ascent of the Gross-
168 venediger . . . .257
RouteG — "Windisch-Matrey to Krimml,
174 by the Virgenthal . . 263
Route H — Lienz to Uttendorf , or Bruck,
175 in Pinzgau, by the Kalser-
thal and Stubachthal . , 269
177 Route I — Heiligenblut to Windisch-
Matrey . . . .274
Route K — Lienz to St. Valentin, by the
178 Defereggenthal ._ . . 27-5
Route L — Bruneck to Hopfgarten . . 277
183 Route M — Taufers to St. Jakob in De-
186 fereggen, by the Rainthal . 279
Route N — Sillian to Hopfgarten, by the
188 Villgrattenthal . . . 281
191 Section 52.
192 GASTEIN district.
Route A — Salzburg to Bad Gastein. Ex-
cursions from Gastein . 283
Route B— Lend to Heiligenblut, by
Rauris, or Hof Gastein . 287
Route C — Bad Gaste-n to Spittal on the
Drave, by Mallnitz . .291
201 j Route D — Bad Gastein to Ober-Vellach
I by the Zirknitzthal, or Fra-
207 I gantthal .... 296
; Route E — St. Johann in Pongau to Til-
. 210 ; lach, by the Radstadter
I Tauem .... 298
213 ' Route F — St. Johann in Pongau to
j Gmllnd, by the Arlscharte . 30i
; Route G — Gmiind to Bad Gastein by the
218 ! Kleine Elend . . . 304
! RouteH — Gmund to Ober-Vellach. As-
220 i cent of the Hochalpenspitz 30G
j Route I —St. Johann in Pongau, to St.
Michael in Lungau. The
221 I Hafnereck . . . . 3U
["]
140
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
The geological map of the Alps, east of
the Adige, shows a broad band of crys-
talline rocks extending from "W. to E.,
and flanked to the N. and S. by a zone
of stdimentan' rocks, chiefly of Jurassic
and triassic age. It has been seen in
the preceding chapters that on the N.
side the geological boundary almost
exactly coincides with a great line of
valley running parallel to the main
chain. On the S. side the boundary is
equally well defined, though somewhat
mor-^ sinuous. At the W. end the con-
V'^^rging branches of the Adige that
meet at Botzen di-\4de the central range
from the Orteler group and the dolo-
mite Alps, while towards the E. the
valleys of the Eienz and the Drare
form a continuous line of depression,
nearly corresponding to the S. limit of
the crystalline rocks. The central
range reaches its culminating point in
the G-rossglockner, but about 25 m.
east of that peak begins to subside to
a much lower level, while at the same
time it forks into two parallel branches,
■which are divided by the valley of the
Mur running parallel to the direction
of the main chain.
Austrian writers commonly designate
the entire range of crystalline rocks,
from the Adige to the Schneeberg, as
the ' Central Alps.' But in a general
arrangement of the entire Alpine chain,
this term cannot be applied to a sub-
division of the Eastern Alps, and it is
no<: easy to suggest any other suitable
collective name. In the present chap-
ter we include only the higher western
division of the range, for which the
most fitting designation seems to be
that of Central Tyrol Alps, It is
true that the province of Tyrol includes
jwrtions of the northern and southern
ranges lying beyond the limit-s of the
centVal chain, and that the latter at its
eastern extremity extends into Carin-
thia and the province of Salzburg ; yet
it remains true that the range, as here
defined, may be called, par excellence,
the main chain of the Tyrol Alps. It
is bounded to the iN^, by the Inn and
thf Salza, to the W. by the Adige from
its source to Botzen, to the S. by the
Eisack and Rienz, and then by the
valley of the Drave. The eastern limit
is not quite so well marked. Oro-
graphically the most natural boundary
is that indicated by the valleys lying
between St. Johann im Pongau and
Spital on the Drave — the Gross Arlthal,
Maltathal, and Lieserthal; but for the
purposes of this work it is more con-
venient to fix as the eastern limit the
high road from Radstadt to Spital,
crossing the two low passes of the Rad-
stadter Tauern and the Katschberg. Al-
though this road enters the valleys of the
Enns and the Mur near the sources of
those rivers, it does not cross the W.
boundary of Styria, and for all practical
purposes is the direct line of communi-
cation between Salzburg and the upper
valley of the Drave. The range in-
cluded within these limits is divided
into two very distinct portions by the
deep depression leading on either side
to the Brenner Pass, the lowest in the
entire range of the Alps. To the west
of that limit the peaks are collected in
groups and short ridges not forming a
continuous range ; while on the E, side
the chain extending from the Wild
Kreuzspitze to the Hochalpen-Sp. is
one of the best defined and most con-
tinuous in the Alps. In a distance of
nearly 100 miles there is no pass below
8,000 ft. in height, and there are but
four that do not much surpass that
limit.
Most strangers who visit the Tyro-
lese Alps keep to the main valleys,
where they find the conveniences of
carriage roads and good inns ; and
comparatively few have explored the
remoter valleys that penetrate the re-
cesses of the higher mountains. What-
ever other advantages the common
method may offer, it certainly cannot
lead to much acquaintance with the
Alpine region of Tyrol. In Switzerland,
and on the Italian side of the Alps, it is
easy to enjoy most of the finest scenery
by keeping to beaten paths, and in
manv places carriage roads lead near to
the base of the highest peaks, but such
§ 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
141
is by no means the case in Tyrol. Al-
though the country has been pretty
thoroughly explored by German moun-
taineers and men of science, the afflu-
ence of strangers is not such as to bring
about much local provision for their
comfort. Amidst the far more civilised
population of this region there is no
risk of encountering the filth and misery
of Dauphine, or the unfrequented parts
of the Valais, but the traveller who
would enjoy the finest scenery of the
high Alps of Tyrol must put up with
rough accommodation and indifferent
food.
SECTION 48.
OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
The western portion of the Tyrolese
chain is a high mountain mass sur-
rounded on two sides by the upper
course of the Adige, which at first flows
southward for several miles, and then
bends to the eastward, and follows that
direction as far as Meran. The streams
bearing part of the drainage of this
mass to the Adige diverge from it in
various directions, and no one of them
drains a large svu'face. The case is
otherwise on the NE. side. The high-
est summits of the group enclose the
head of the Eenderthal and Grurglthal,
and several large glaciers pour their
streams into those two glens which
unite at the head of the Oetzthal. The
torrent from that considerable valley,
reinforced by tributaries from the Stu-
bay Alps, flows northward to join the
Inn below Imst.
The best mode for forming an idea
of the somewhat complicated orography
of this district is to fix attention on the
"Weisskugel (r2,277')> the second in
height of its peaks, which rises a few
miles E. of the sources of the Adige,
and very near the watershed between
that stream and the Inn. The highest
peaks of the group lie in two ranges
that diverge from that mountain — the
one about due E., the other to NE.
The former is the dividing range that
parts the waters flowing to the Inn
from the basin of the Adige ; but the
latter surpasses it in height, including
the highest peaks and the greatest gla-
ciers. From the latter three lofty
ridges run due N., parallel to the Oetz-
thal, towards the Inn, and between
them lie two Alpine valleys, too long
neglected by travellers, the Kaunser-
thal and Pitzthal. Including some
accessory ridges of considerable height,
these ranges make up the group of the
Oetzthal Alps. With this is nearly
connected the smaller group of the Stu-
bay Alps, lying between the Oetzthal
and the Brenner Pass. In a general
arrangement of the Eastern Alps these
are usually placed together, inasmuch
as the Stubay group has more relations
with the Oetzthal Alps than with the
range, extending from the Brenner
to the Maltathal in Carinthia. But as
the principal valleys of the Stubay
group descend towards the E. in the
direction of the Brenner road, it has ap-
peared a matter of obvious convenience
to describe them in a separate sec-
tion. Although the Oetzthal Alps are
s\irpassed in height by many groups
described in the preceding portions of
this work, they are deservedly reckoned
by German writers amongst the most
considerable of the subdivisions of the
great chain. The large number of high
peaks, and, still more, the height of the
passes in this district, show that it is
one of those in which the largest mass
of matter has been raised to the great-
est height above the level of the conti-
nent. Within an area of 921 square
miles we find 14 peaks surpassing
11,000 Vienna feet (11,408 Eng. ft.),
and at least 60 that fall between 10,000
and 11,000 Vienna ft. (10,371 and
11,408 Eng. ft.), while the lowest pass
OA-er the main ranges enclosing the val-
leys of Fend and Gurgi is 9,514 ft.
in height. Fully three-fourths of the
142
CEN'TRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
entire space surpasses the limit of
6,000 ft., and 164 square miles lie
within the snow-region. If the solid
mass were spread out uniformly, it
would form a plateau 8,332 ft. above
the sea-level. If we add that the group
includes over 230 glaciers, several of
which are amongst the most consider-
able in the Alps, it becomes evident
that the region here described is not
only important to the physical geogra-
pher, but must offer many inducements
to the lover of high Alpine scenery.
Much of this may be enjoyed by ordi-
nary tourists who arrive without the
slightest difficulty at the central points
— Fend and Gurgl ; but it is reserved
for the active mountaineer to make a
thorough acquaintance with the district.
There are good inns in the Oetzthal,
and fair quarters at Unser Liebe Frau
and St. Leonhard in Passeyerthal, but
in the higher valleys it is necessary to
apply for entertainment to the village
clergymen, it being understood that a
reasonable charge is made at the tra-
veller's departure.
Ample information respecting the
orography of this district is given in
Karl V. Sonklar's elaborate work on
the Oetzthal Alps, referred to in the
preliminary notes to this volume ; and
further particulars useful to the moun-
taineer may be gleaned from several
papers in the annual volumes of the
Vienna Alpine Club.
It is convenient to include in this
section the description of the great road
through the upper valley of the Adige
from Landeck to Botzen, which marks
the western boundary of this district,
and the great line of depression be-
tween the Central and the Eastern
Alps.
EoUTE A.
lAKDECK
TO aiERAX A^D BOTZEN.
Anstrian Eng.
miles mileg
Eied
2 9^
Pfunds .
2 91
Nauders .
2 9^
Mais
3i 16i
Eyers
2 91
ScWanders
H 7
Xatums .
2i in
Meran
2 9|
Tilpian .
Botzen .
2 H
If s|
21i lOOi
In preceding portions of this work, it
has been seen that several of the chief
roads of Northern Tyrol converge at
Landeck, in the upper valley of the
Inn. That leading from Bregenz, on
the 1. of Constance, through the Vorarl-
berg, is described in § 34, Ete. A. The
roads from Bavaria by Immenstadt, or
Fiissen, andEeutte, and that from Inns-
bruck through the Innthal, are de-
scribed in Sections 41 and 42. The
road described in the present Ete. is
one of the main lines of communication
from the north to the south side of the
Alps, being very nearly a slow as the more
frequented line of the Brenner, but less
direct. The distance from Innsbruck
to Botzen by Landeck is nearly double
that by the Brenner (§ 49, Ete. A), but
the road is in aU respects more inte-
i resting.
I This road has frequently suffered
j from inundations, but has of late been
in good condition. There are good
! inns at Meran and Schlanders, and
i tolerable ones in most of the villages
; on the road. A post-carriage plies
I daily throughout the year between
j Landeck and Botzen. and besides a
j country carriage, or Stellwagen, runs
between Meran and Mais. In summer
additional Stellwagen ply daily between
Landeck and Mais, and Mais and Meran,
and twice a day between Meran and
Botzen. They travel slowly, and. ex-
cept from the front seats, little of the
countrv can be seen.
ROUTE A. DEFILE OF FJNSTERMtJNZ.
143
Above Landeck, the valley of the
Inn becomes a narrow defile, and turns
sharply to the E. for a distance of 5 or
6 m. The high-road is carried along
the rt. bank to the bridge of Pontlatz,
famous in T}-rolese history, for the de-
struction of a Bavarian force that at-
tempted to force the passage in 1703,
and that of a still larger body of
French and Bavai'ians in 1809. Here
the road crosses to the 1. bank, and the
vaUey widens out as it resumes its
normal direction towards SW. [The
pedestrian going from Innsbruck to the
Finstcrmiinz may shorten the way by
leaving the high road a mile below
Imst, and following the track along the
W. side of the Pitzthal for about 5 m.
A path then turns out of the main
valley, mounts SW. to the hamlet of
Piller,and crosses the Fillerjoch (4,621'),
a low and easy pass, whence one path
descends to the Pontlatz bridge, and
another keeps to the 1. and leads di-
rectly to Prutz. The mountain lying
between the Pillerjoch and Landeck,
round whose base the Inn follows so
circuitous a course, is the Venctberg
(8,233'). It commands a fine view of
the neighbouring valleys, and the
snowy range to the S.] The road re-
turns to tlae rt. bank of the Inn at
Pni.tz (2,719'), Avith a village inn (Rose),
standing at the opening of the Kaun-
serthal (Rte. E), which leads into the
heart of the glacier region. On the
opposite side of the river, at some
height above the valley, are the baths of
Obladis (3,920'), said to be amongst the
best managed in Tyrol. A handsome
building, belonging to a company, ac-
commodates visitors at very moderate
prices. Light carriages can go from
Ried as far as the village of Ladis, half
an hour below the Baths. The salt
spring is used internally as well as for
baths. The high-road passes under the
rock whereon stand the ruins of the
very ancient castle of Landeck, and in
about 2 m. from Prutz reaches the
post station of Ekd (Inns :Post, Adler ;
both indiiferent), a pretty village, 2,887
feet above the sea, picturesquely placed
below the castle of Sigmundsried, at the
opening of the Ftnddserthal , a short
glen leading to a low pass into the
Kaunserthal. After passing Tosens,
the road once more crosses to the 1. bank
of the Inn, nearly opposite the opening
of the TsclmiypacMlial, and follows the
same side of the valley to
Pfunds. The post-station with an
inn (Post) is in the hamlet of Stuben,
on the 1. bank, where there is an inte-
resting old church with a carved wood
altar. The modern church is in the
principal village (Inn : Traube) on the
rt. bank of the stream, at the opening
of the Eadurschclthal, a wild and some-
what dreary Alpine glen, running SE.
to the base of the Huchglockt^ithurm
(10,997')- By the N. side of that peak,
two passes lead to the head of the
Kaimserthal ; while there is an easier
track, W. of the peak, to Mallag, in the
Langtauferer Thai.
A short distance beyond Prutz, the
valley of the Inn gradually narrows,
and we enter the famous defile of Fin-
stermunz. The old road was carried
for several miles along the 1. bank, but
this has been superseded by the very
remarkable line of road which was
completed in 1855. Crossing the Inn,
for the last time, about \\ m. above
Pfunds, it ascends gradually along the
face of a range of nearly vertical cliffs
of secondary limestone. In most places
a shelf has been formed for the road by
blasting the face of the rock, but there
are 3 tunnels and 2 galleries formed
artificially for protection from ava-
lanches and falling stones. At a spot
called Hoch Finstermunz, where the
rocks form a small platform, room has
been found for two or three houses, one
of which is a fair country inn, com-
manding a remarkable view. . Many
hundred feet below is seen the tower
and the ancient bridge of Finstermiinz
(3,152'), whence the old and steep road
climbed the rocks on the rt. bank lead-
ing to the gap through which it escaped
from the valley of the Inn to the upland
valley of Nauders. This point, fortified
as early as the 11th century by
114
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
the German invaders of Italy, is de-
fended by a new fort -whose guns sweep
all the approaches. Beware of sketch-
ing near here. Por the pedestrian, the
old road, no longer passable for vehicles,
is on the whole more interesting than
the new one. The abrupt contrast be-
tween the gloom that dwells in the
depth of the defile, and the broad day-
light of the summit of the pass, is lost
by the new road. Travellers entering
Tyr.ol from the Engadine do well to send
their luggage from Martinsbruck to
Nauders. They shoidd walk from the
former village by the narrow track on
the 1. bank of the Inn ( § 36, Ete. A) to
the old bridge of Finstermiinz, and then
ascend by the old road to Nauders.
On escaping from the defile, the road
continues to ascend for some two miles
farther to
Nauders (Inns : Post, good and reason-
able country quarters ; Mondschein,
old-fashioned, cheap). The Tillage,
with its old castle, stands 4,356 ft.
above the sea, near the summit of the
plateau, dividing the basin of the Inn
from that of the Adige. Those who
halt here should take a short and
pleasant stroll on the S. side of the road,
leading hence to Martinsbruck, to the
summit of the ridge dividing the little
upland valley from the Engadine. The
ridge in question here forms the fron-
tier of Switzerland, and commands a
pleasing view of the lower Engadine,
and the range dividing it from the
Patznaunthal.
The road to Italy ascends gently from
Nauders along the little stream of the
Stilkbach, and in about 4 m. reaches the
height of land where the waters begin to
fall towards the Adi-iatic. A small
lake, or pool, lies very near the summit
ot the plateau, which is 4,596 ft. above
the sea, and is called Beschen-SchddecJc,
from the village of Eeschen, lying near
the lake. Excepting the Brenner, which
is lower by 8 ft., this is the lowest de-
pression in the chain of the Alps divi-
ding Italy from the rest of Europe.
The traveller has scarcely attained the
eummit-level when a noble view of the
Orteler and its attendant peaks is
opened due S., and reappears at inter-
vals, inviting the traveller to a closer
acquaintance with the grand scenery of
Trafoi and Sulden, and the Laaserthal,
whose peaks are seen to the 1. of the
j Orteler. The infant Adige, or Etsch,
after issuing from the Beschensee flows
I through two other lakes — Mittersee and
I Heidersec, between which is the hamlet
i of St. Valentin (Inn: Post), where the
I diligence changes horses, 2 Austrian m.
i from Xauders, Ij m. from Mais. The
j upper end of the valley below the last^
I named village is locally known as Mal-
i ser-Heidc, and was the scene of a signal
! victory gained by the Grisons Swiss, in
j 1499, over a superior force of Austrian
i troops. The course of the Adige con-
j tinues due S. as far as
Mais (Inns : Post, or Adler ; Hirsch),
I and then bends to SE., soon assuming
I the due easterly direction which it main-
tains as far as Meran. The high-road
j keeps to the 1. bank of the stream, leav-
: ing on the opposite side the ancient
' town of Glurns (3,176'), at the opening of
Yal Mustair (§37, Ete. L), the upper
part of which belongs to Switzerland. A
pedestrian wishing to visit the Stelvio
i Pass may go to Santa Maria in that
j valley, thence ascend by the Wormser
Joch to the Italian side of the Stelvio,
; cross that pass, and return to the high-
' road of the Adige by Trafoi.
i From Mais to near Meran the valley
of the Adige is called Vintschgau, which
is the Germanised form of the Italian
Val Venosta. That name is derived from
a Ehsetian tribe, said to have inhabited
the valley, and has been preserved as
the surname of a distinguished family
in Val Tellina. Numerous castles mark
the former importance of the upper
Yintschgau as one of the chief routes
into Italy. After passing Schlv.derns, at
the opening of the MatsdierthaLth.^ peak
of the Orteler again comes into view at
Spondinig, where the road of the Stelvio,
having issued from the Stilfserthal at
Prad i§ 37, Ete. A), joins our route.
Those who do not make a longer excur-
sion should go as far as Trafoi, at the
ROUTE A. VINTSCIIGAU.
145
foot of the Orteler Spitze. Little more
than 1 ni. bt'vond Spondinig is the post-
station at
£(/ers (lnr\: Post, tolerable, dear). A
post-carriage runs daily to Bormio.
The main valley hpre is rather bare and
little interesting, except when some of
the high peaks on the S. side of the
valley come into view. This is the case
at Laas, a poor village nearly destroyed
by fire in 1861, standing opposite the
opening of the Laaserthal (§ 37, Rte.
E). The scenery improves on approach-
ing the next post-station.
Schlanders {Iim: Post, good and clean).
The landlord herp is acquainted with the
neighbouring valleys, and can give use-
ful information. A table is hung up in
the inn containing many particulars re-
specting the high passes leading into
the Vintschgau, which maybe consulted
with advantage by mountaineers. The
following are the distances there given
for the passes connected with the Mar-
tellthal, and the rates charged by the
guide Sebastian (doubtless S. Janiger
mentioned in § 37, Ete. C) :
Marten to Eabbi, by TJlten. 11 Stunden, 6 fl.
„ „ by Soilendfemer, 10 St., 6 fl.
„ to Val di Sole, by tbe Hohenf emer, 8 fl.
„ to Sulden, by the Madritschberg, 5 fl.
„ to Bormio, over the Cevalfemer,
12 Stunden. . . . 10 fl.
The scenery hereabouts is interesting.
To theN. a narrow cleft in the mountains
is the opening of the ScMandernaunthal
(Ete. C). The rock is a coarse red
sandstone (verrucano?), and produces a
peculiar vegetation. The culture of the
vine commences here, and several wild
plants of the warm region show them-
selves, while various Alpine species, such
as Oxytropis Halhri, descend near to
the village. A short distance below
Schlanders the road passes to the rt.
bank nearly opposite the opening of the
Martellthal (§ 37, Ete. C). Moun-
taineers approaching the Orteler district
from the S. cannot do better than ascend
that fme valley, and cross one or other
of the glacier passes leading from it to
Stilden or to Sta. Catarina. After pass-
C.T. *
ing Lat!
^ in the Hairlackthal, the traveller
may ascend to the Gleirscher Joch, and
descend thence, through the G-leirscher-
thal, to St. Sigismund, in the Selrainer-
thal (§ 49, Ete. D). The same pass may
be reached from a point about midway
between Umhausen and Lengenfeld, and
is the most direct way from either of
those places to Innsbruck.]
Above Umhausen the road is very
rough, and fit only for country-carts.
In rainy weather it is liable to be
covered over or carried away by torrents
charged with mud and gravel that issue
from narrow clefts in the mountain.
The entrance to the defile of 3Iaui-ach is
partly barred by a great mound, pro-
bably an ancient moraine. The defile
is wild and pictiu-esque : the track
twice crosses and recrosses the stream
by bridges whose construction cost the
lives of many workmen. Amid scattered
larches, and pines rooted in crevices of
the rock, the track ascends to the next
step {Thalstufe) in the valley, a green
plain 4 or 5 m. in length. Lengenfeld
is a collective name for several ham-
lets scattered over this space, but is
commonly applied to the hamlet of
Fischbach nf-ar its S. end, where the
church (3,886') with a sharp spire, painted
bright green, and the principal inn
(Oberwirth, very fair) are found. There
is another inn (Unterwirth"), but nei-
ther is as good as that at Umhausen.
Nicholas Etschmann is said to be the
best guide here. There is a rough but
not difficult pass to Trenkwald in the
Pitzthal by the Bradler Joch, and an-
other more arduous over the Eanach-
ferner to St. Leonhard in the same
valley. In the opposite direction the
Fischbach issues from the Suhthal,
running deep into the recesses of the
Stubay Alps, and to the E. base of the
Schrankogl, the second peak of that
group. See § 49, Ete. E.
The scenery above Lengenfeld con-
stantly increases in savage grandeur as
after advancing for nearly 1 hr. under
the precipices of the Burgstein, to Hube,
from which place a pass (said to be
difficult) leads to Mittelberg in the
Pitzthal by the Gschrahkoglgletschcr,
the track enters another defile where
massive hornblende rocks close to-
gether, barely leaving space for the
torrent and the rough cart-track. At
Brand, the Ache is crossed to the L
bank, the valley opens a little, and the
track mounts to some height above the
torrent, and after traversing a larch
wood descends into the basin of
Sblden (4.442'). There is a small, but
clean inn (beim Karlinger). Alois En-
nemoser, one of the best guides for this
district, and Ferdinand Platter live
here, but are often at Fend in sum-
mer. The landlord's son is also well
spoken of. At Solden the valley ai>-
sumes the characteristic aspect of the
central recesses of the Alps. A few
patches of rice, oats, and potatoes, ;ire
hemmed in by pine forest, above which
rise steep slopes of rock and Alpine
pasture, surmounted by the peaks of the
snowy range. The most prominent of
these is the Hsbdcrkogl (10,375'), crown-
ing the ridge that divides the valleys of
Fend and Gurgl. The iU-famed Biid-
stockl pass, over the Winacherfemer,
leads in 12 hrs. to Neustift in Stubay.
F. Platter, wh.-> knows it well, expects
8 fl. Another less difficult pass leads
to the head of the Pitzthal by the
Pitzthaler-Jbchl (9,806'). See Ete. G.
Above Solden the bridle-track enters
another ravine, the wildest and grandt.st
ROUTE B. PASSEYERTHAL.
149
of the entire valley. Throughout its
entire length, but especially here, nu-
merous M-ayside pictures and votive
tablets commemorate accidents to life
or limb due to avalanches, floods, falling
rocks, and the varied chances of man's
life in the Alps. In 1 hr. steady
walking, the traveller reaches Zioiesel-
stein (two inns, the new one not bad),
standing, as the name implies, at the
bifurcatiun of the main valley, 4,791 ft.
above the sea. The branch mounting
due S. is called Gurglthal (Ete. D),
while the longer branch, mounting
SW., is the Fenderthal (Ete. C). The
way to the Timbler Joch ascends for a
short distance through the Gurglthal
on the rt. bank of the torrent, but soon
turns to the 1. into a short lateral glen
called TimhUhal. The rough path,
which is passable for laden mules,
crosses to the 1. bank of the torrent
through this glen, returning to the
opposite side about \ hr. below the top.
In 3 hrs. from Zwiesel stein the
traveller attains the Timbler Joch
(8,298'), the lowest pass between the
Reschen-Seheideck and the Brenner,
and the only one well fitted for four-
footed beasts. The pass may be reached
from Gurgl by the Angerer Alp, and
thence by a narrow path carried along
the face of precipitous rocks. In fine
weather a guide is not necessary, but
when clouds lie on the pass, it is quite
possible to miss the way, as the track is
in places ill marked. The distance from
the summit to Moos in the Passeyer-
thal is counted 5| hrs., but in descend-
ing 4 hrs. amply suffice. The way is
steep for about 20 min., but thence-
forward the descent is gentle, keeping a
SE. direction to &Ao?2aM (5,042'), a mi-
serable hamlet, with an inn which would
be resorted to only in case of necessity.
Here the track bears to the rt., and
crosses the torrent before reaching Ba-
bensttin{4:A9o'). From this northernmost
branch of the Passeyerthal, several j
passes lead to Sterzing by the Eidnaun- j
thai and the Eatschingerthal (§ 49, i
Ete. H). At the beginning of the fif- i
teenth centur}' a Bergfall in the lower !
part of the valley leading to Moos
barred the course of the Passer, and led
to the formation of a lake that extended
nearly to Eabenstein. The partial
yielding of the barrier thus formed led
to several inundations that spread
havoc through the valley even to Meran,
till about 1790 a channel was opened
that finally drained the lake, whose bed
is now a green basin. A very poor inn
(Seehaus) stands here, about 2 m. below
Eabenstein. The path thence descends
steeply, and follows the stony slopes,
first along the rt. bank, then by the
opposite side to Moos (3,183'), a village
standing at tlie junction of the Pfelder-
thal with the main branch of the Pas-
seyerthal. The streams meet at rt.
angles, and their united torrents fiow a
little S. of AV. from hence to St. Leon-
hard. The inn is poor, but better than
those higher up the valley. The scenery
here is very fine. There are two paths
descending the valley from Moos, of
which the more direct is that by the
1. bank. The longer but more pictu-
resque way mounts to the village of
Piatt, and thence follows the rt. bank.
The distance is commonly counted 2^
hrs., but in descending it is easy to go
in little more than ] ^ hr. from Moos to
St. Leonhard (Inns : Weisses Eoss,
beim Strobl, good; and two others),
the chief village of the Passeyerthal,
2,273 ft. above the sea. The valley
here bends shai-ply at a rt. angle, a
little W. of S., and the higher peaks are
lost to view. The scenery is compara-
tively tame throughout the descent to
Meran, but the traveller familiar with
the story of the heroic resistance of the
TjTolese to the French and Bavarian
invasion in 1809, will visit with interest
the home of Ilofer, the leader of the
national struggle and its foremost
victim. The church and cemetery of
St. Leonhard, which had been occupied
as a military position by the French,
were taken by storm by the Tyrol fse.
About ^ hr. below St. Leonhard the
track which keeps to the 1. bank of the
Passer passes the wayside inn — Wirths-
liaus am Sand— once kept by Andreas
150
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
HoftT, who derived from it the common
desitrnation ' der Sandvvirth.' The house
is still an inn, and contains several
memorials of the popular hero. The
hut where he lay concealed, until be-
trayed to the French in January 1810,
is about 1^ hr. distant, on the ridge
SE. of his home. It may be taken on
the way to Botzen, as a track leads
thence across the ridge into the Penser-
th:il, or NW. branch of the Sarenthal.
PJelow the next village of St. Martin
the path traverses a spot called Keller-
lahn, where, after heavy rain, a slowly
moving stream of mud descends from
the mountain side, crosses the track, and
finally falls into the Passer. Men
attempting to cross this treacherous
current have found it impossible to ex-
tricate themselves ; and some lives have
thus been lost. The remainder of the
walk to Meran is hot, and not very in-
teresting, till that town is approached.
The track by the 1. bank passes the
castle of Schonna, near which is the
very ancient church of St. George. The
shorter way by the rt. bank traverses
Saltans (inn kept by uncivil people) and
Kuens. The last pai'ish priest of the
latter village acquired reputation as a
poet and antiquary. The priest's house
commands a very fine view. The castle
of Tyrol (Ete. A) may be taken on the
way from hence to Meran, but the
direct road enters the town through the
Passej^erthor.
ROTJTE C.
SOLDEN TO THE VINTSCHGAU, BY THB
FENDEETHAL.
As was mentioned in the last Ete.,
the main branch of the Oetzthal, and
that which penetrates most deeply into
the heart of the snowy Alps, is the
Fenderthal, which unites its torrent with
that of the Grurglthal at Zwieselstein.
The path from Solden to Fend (also
written Vent) turns to the rt., and crosses
the Ache before it reaches the first houses
of Zwieselstein, but there is another way,
shorter, but rougher, which crosses the
shoulder of the mountain, and avoids
the junction of the two valleys. The
path keeps to the 1. side of the valley,
for the most part at a great height
above the torrent, which rushes through
a deep chasm, sometimes lost to view.
At Freistabl, the first group of houses,
the defile widens a little, but contracts
again before the traveller reaches HcUi-
genkrcuz (5,378'), where wine and an
omelette, and, in case of need, one or
two beds, may be found at the house
of the curate. A bridge, thrown at a
great height above the torrent, here leads
to the opposite side of the valley, above
which rises the peak of the Uamolkogl
(11, .527'), but the traveller keeps to the
1. bank, and in 5 hrs. from Solden
reaches
. i^tJirfCSjl 68'). now often written Vent,
one of the highest villages in the Alps,
a small group of houses beside a church.
As it first comes into view, backed by
the glaciers at the head of the Kofenthal
and Spieglerthal, which are divided by
the peak of the Thakitsspitz (II. 172'), it
forms a striking picture. The inn is
very poor, and all strangers apply to
the parish priest, that excellent mount-
aineer, Herr Senn, who can accommo-
date 16 or 18 persons. His house-
keeper makes a moderate charge accord-
ing to the supplies furnished. These
ROUTE C. — EXCURSIONS FROM FEND.
151
include meat, eggs, -svine, coffee, milk,
butter, wliite bread, and chickens. Cy-
prian Granbichler, the best guide here,
■was lost in 1870. Ignaz Schoj^f now
ranks first. Nicodemus Klotz, of Rofen,
once famous, has retired, but he has
four younger brothers, of "whom Leander
is said to be the boldest. Josef Gstrein
is probably second best. Save the first,
none of these are comparable as ice-men
to the good Swiss and Savoy guides, but
they are competent to lead strangers
over the known passes. Josef Scheiber
is said to be much improved. A tariff
of charges has been established, mostly
reasonable.
As Fend lies in the centre of an
almost complete circle of high peaks,
it offers very attractive quarters to the
mountaineer. It is said that no fewer
than twenty glaciers are drained into the
valley, most of which are accessible with
more or less diflSculty. Of the numer-
ous glacier passes those leading to the
Vintschgau are described in the present
Rte. Of these, two leading to Natums,
through the Schnalserthal, are mode-
rately easy. The others here mentioned
are mountaineers' passes, rarely used
even by the native hunters. Full in-
formation respecting most of them is
contained in the valuable work of von
Sonklar already referred to.
Ex-cursioiis from Fend, The moun-
taineer undertaking excursions from
Fend must recollect that the guides of
this district are not as well up to ice-
work as the best Swiss and Savoy guides,
nor equally familiar with the necessary
precautions. He should therefore per-
sonally look to the sufficiency and
solidity of the rope, and will do well
to carry his own ice-axe if he has ac-
quired some practice with that weapon.
The ascent which will most tempt
mountaineers is that of the WiJdspitz
(1 2,390'), the highest point in this region.
The ascent was made in 1865 by Messrs.
Tuckett, Fox, and Freshfield, taking
nearly the same course followed by Herr
Specht of Vienna in 1 857. This in part
followed a projecting buttress of the
mountain called Urkund. Mr. Tuckett
advises future travellers to go right up the
Eotenkahr Kees, keeping at some dis-
tance below ti)e ridge of the Urkund,
until they reach a Suttel, or col. between
that and the final slopes of the Wildspitz.
From that point the peak was attained
in 1 hr.. and in subsequent ascents 5
hours of actual walking have sufficed to
reach the top. Tariff — t\AO guides at
5 fl. each. For the way to the Pitztlial
see Rte. F.
The view from the Weisskugel. or Hi ti-
ter Wilde EisspHz{]2,277'),h decidedly
finer than that from the Wildspitz, as
it overlooks many of the neighbouring
valleys. It is accessible from the Hin-
tereis Joch (see beiow), which may be
reached from Fend, and in rather less
time from Kurzras at the head of ihe
Sehnalserthal. The guides, who once
asked 20 fl. each, are now satisfied with
10 fl.
The Similavn (11,810') is easily
reached from the ^Niederjoch (see be-
low), or direct from Unser Frau by the
ridge E. of the Tissenalpthal, to a
point called Kasererwarterl, and finally
by the eastern arete after crossing the
neve of the Grafferner. The summit
commands an admirable view.
The Ramolkogel (11,527'). called by
Sonklar Anich Spitze, with one of the
finest panoramic views in this district,
is easily reached in 5 hrs. from Fend.
The Kreuzsintz{\\,A lO') is, however,
now preferred by most visitors to Fend
as affording one of the best panoramic
views, and being easily accessible even
to ladies since a path has been com-
pleted nearly to the top. It turns to
the rt. from the way to the Niederjoch
(see below) at the somarhiitte. Of
nearer points of view one of the best is
the Mutboden, rising Js. of Fend, and
reached in 2 hrs.
1. To the Schnalserthal and Natums,
by the Nieder Joch (9.847'). 6 hrs.
from Fend to Unser Frau ; 4 hrs. thence
to Staben, or A\ hrs. to Natums. This
was long supposed to be the lowest, as
it is the most direct way to the Schnal-
serthal; but is in fact higher, rather more
laborious, and more difficult than the
152
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT,
Hoch Jocli, next described. Two moun- I
taineers vrith a rope may perhaps dispense |
witli a guide in settled fine weather, but, I
although the writer has gone alone this I
way in one day, from Fend to Meran, he i
strongly advises travellers not to follow I
his example. It is a far better plan to 1
halt at Unser Frau, and employ the |
spare time in the ascent of the Similaun, |
Less than a mile above Fend two gla-
cier sto-eams issuing from two glens or
ncesses in the icy chain join their
waters. The easternmost of these, flow-
iu^^ nearly due N., issue.s from the Spieg-
lerthal, also called ykchrthal, and leads
to the Nieder Joch. The -way keeps at
first to the "W. side of the torrent. On
the opposite side rises the snowy range
that separates Fend from Grurgl, ■whose
chief summits are the Ra/nolkogl
1^11 .'S27'), Firmianspitz (11,275), and
Schcdfkogl {11,562').
In about 1^ hr. from F"'end the tra-
veller reaches the base of the Marzoll
Glacier, which descends laterally from
tlie S. into the glen, and bridges over
the stream -which issues higher up from
tht Nitderjochferrier. The v/ay lies along
the moraine of tiie Marzoll Glacier, to
a ruined hut called S» marhiitte, and
thence up rough slopt'S, till in about
3 hrs. from Fend it enters on the ice of
tue Niederjochferner. The true direction
is indicated by little pyramids of stone
heaped up on the ice. As the traveller
rises, he obtains wider views of the sur-
rounding peaks. Before him rises the
white pyramidal summit of the Similaun
(11,810'), which is attainable without
difficulty in 2^ hours from the upper
plateau near the pass. The descent
should be made by the head of the
Graflferner, and the Kasererwarterl (see
above). Near the latter point is a
curious mass of seemingly erratic blocks
of porphyry and various other rocks.
The Fend guides expect five florins for
the ascent from the Nieder Joch side.
The Finailspitz (about 11,600'),
rising between this and the Hoch Joch,
is easily ascended from this side, and
also, but less easily, from the iloch
Joch.
On reaching the Nieder Joch, at the
lowest point of the ridge, the glacier
comes abruptly to an end, and a single
step on the rock suffices to bring the tra-
veller to the verge of the very steep range
enclosing a wild glen called Tissendp-
thal. At the first moment the descent
appears formidably steep, almost a
precipice ; but on looking down the tra-
veller will see indications of a faintly
marked trac-k carried up the broken face
of the rocks, and in point of fact, the
descent is not difficult. Keeping some-
what to the rt., he reaches a slope of
debris at the base of the rocks leading
dowTi into the wild and dreary hollow
which soon opens into the head of the
Schnalserthal, near a group of huts
called Oliervernagt (5,600'). Amid very
grand scenery the path descends by the
1. bank in ^ hr. more to
Unser Liebe Fran (5,314'). There is
a very fair country-inn here, with 4 beds,
kept by Joh. Spektenhauser(der Unter-
wirth j, and another nearer the church —
not bad — (beim Suuter). Gabriel Spek-
tenhauser (first-rate) and Urban Griscli
are the best guides here. As at most
places in Tyrol, a tariff for guides has
been established. Many interesting
passes, most of which are noticed helow,
may be taken from this as a starting
point.
The walk from Unser Frau through
the Schnalserthal is ver}- interesting, the
scenery being throufrhout of a high order.
The path lies at first along the 1. bank
of the Schnahe, also called Tschernin'
hack, then crosses to the rt. bank, and in
1 hr. reaches Karthaiis (4,793'), a vil-
lage with a country inn standing on an
eminence high above the torrent. Nearly
opposite is the Pfossenthal {B.te. D i, one
of the most savage recesses of the Tvro-
lese Alps. Below Karthaus the path
keeps to the rt. bank, usually at a great
height above the stream. Some of
the grandest larches in Tyrol (or in
Europe) formerly adorned this valley,
and a few very fine trees still remain
near the track. On the opposite side
of the valley the village of Si. Catha-
rina (4,063') also stands on a point very
ROUTE C. HOCH JOCH.
153
high above the torrent. About 1 hr.
below Ivarthaus is liatieis, a group of
houses, with au inn. The most pictu-
resque point on the way is 1^ hr. below
Ratteis, where the path passes the ruined
castle of Ji/fahl, commanding a noble
view of the Schnalserthal, the adjoining
portion of the Viutschgau, and the sur-
rounding mountains. In ^ hr. the path
descends thence to Staben on the high-
road a little W. of the opening of the
valley. At the very fair inn in that
rilliige it is often possible to procure a
vehicle for Meran or Schlanders; but
the prospect is more secure at the Post at
Naturns (Rte. A). Charge for a char
{dnsjjdnniger Wagen) to Meran, about
3 fl. In going to Naturns the traveller
should take a path that turns to the 1.,
about I m. above the castle of Jufahl,
and reaches the level of the Vintschgau
about ^ hr. west of Naturns by a very
steep descent. At the lower end of its
course the Schnalse has cut a very deep
cleft, forming an impassable defile,
through which it rushes into the valley
of the Adige.
2. To the Schnalserthal by the Hoch
Jock (9,0 15'). 7 hrs. from Fend to
Unser Frau. A new path has been
constructed at the instance of the ac-
tive parish priest of Fend, and two
mules are available at each side of the
pass for the benefit of tourists. This
way is fully an hour longer than that
by the Nieder Joch, but it is more used,
and the scenery, on the whole, is finer.
Following the western branch of the
valley where it forks above Fend, a
walk of rather more than 2 m. leads to
Rofen (6,705'). The shortest path is
that by the 1. bank of the torrent.
Since the Stelvio road has ceased to be
maintained at government expense, this
is probably the highest spot in the
German Alps which is inhabited through-
out the year. A Steinbock (bouquetm)
carved in stone upon an ancient house
commemorates the heraldic device and
privileges of nobility granted to the
former owner by Frederick of the
Empty Purse, when he here, at the foot
of the glaciers, found a secure refuge
from his enemies. Hofen is the dwell-
ing place of the Klorz family, reputed
the best guides in the valley. From
this spot the branch of the valley de-
rives its name, Eofenthal. It is en-
closed by several of the highest summits
of the Oetzthal Alps. Immediately
N. of Rofen rises the Wildsjpitz
(12,390'), followed towards the W.
by the Prochkogl (11,926'), Plat-
trykogl (11,056'), Langtav.fererspits
(11,629'), Weisskugel {12,277'), and on
the opposite side by the FineUspitz,
Kreuzspitz {11,4:10'), and Thaleitsspitz
(11,172'). From a cleft on the W. side
of the Platteykogl the Vernagt Glacier
descends into the valley. The oscilla-
tions of this glacier, as it alternately
advances and recedes, have caused
disasters nearly as extensive as .the
better known inundations of the Dranse
near Martigny. Thrice in the 17th
century it so completely barred across
the valley above Rofen as to form a
large lake, which finally burst the ice-
barrier, and caused floods, which were
much more destructive in the lower
Oetzthal than in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the glacier. Similar acci-
dents have been repeated on a smaller
scale in the present century, for the
last time in 1848. The new path keeps
to the slope above the rt. hank of the
torrent, and then crosses the debris left
by the Vernagt Glacier in order to
reach the upper slopes intervening be-
tween that and the three great ice-
streams which converge towards the
head of the valley. From the NW.
descends the KesseJwand-Gletscher,
which joins the more extensive Hin-
tereis-Gletscher, flowing eastward from
the Weisskugel and the Innere Quell-
spitz ; while the HucIijoc/ifer7ier descends
from the ridge to the S. and SW.,
approaching very near the Hintereis-
Gietscher in the lower part of its course.
A mountain inn. supplying refreshments
and beds in case of need, has been
opened here. The way lies for ^ hr.
over moraine, and then for 1^ hr. over
the glacier, till the Hoch Joch (9,515')
is attained in about 4 hrs. from Fend.
154
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
The views on either side of the
Dunierous peaks, rising out of a vast ex-
tent of surrounding glacier, are very
striking. Although the glaciers of this
region lie very near to each other, and are
sometimes divided only by snow-covered
ridges, they are generally iormed in
distinct basins, and it is not correct to
describe them, as some writers have
done, as though they were outlets from
a single continuous ice-reservoir.
The descent from the Hoch Jock is,
for some distance, over snow slopes
steep enough to allow of glissading.
Before long the traveller reaches the
rocks that enclose the head of the
Schnalserthal. The way formerly lay
to the 1., but a new and improved path
to the rt. is now complete. 1 hr. suf-
fices to reach Kurzras (6,637') ; a group
of huts offer refreshments and, in case
of need, three beds. The landlord
of the huts (der Bauer) is said to be
a good guide for some of the neigh-
bouring peaks. The walk from hence
to Unser Frau is extremely enjoyable.
The way lies partly over meadows,
partly through larch forest, and the
surrounding scenery is grand and
beautiful. After joining the path from
the Nieder Joch, the traveller, in about
3 hrs. from the summit, reaches Unser
Frau.
3. To Schlanders by the TascU JocU.
About 12 hrs. from Fend. The travel-
ler who has crossed the Hoch Joch, and
descended thence to Kurzras (see above),
may reach Schlanders on the same day,
by crossing a pass called Taschl Jochl,
leading from the latter place to the
head of the Schlandernaunthal. The
Bummit (9,067') commands a remark-
able view of the snowy range of the
Oetzthal Alps on one side, and that of
the Orteler on the other. In descend-
ing on the S. side, the way passes some
small lakes, and thence to an AJpine
pasture h"ing at the head of the Schlan-
dernminthal, which is a wild hollow,
inhabited only in summer when herds-
men visit the head of the glen. It is a
walk of 3 hrs. from the Alp to Schlan-
ders (Rte. A), ending by a ver)- steep
j descent, as the path avoids the gorgb
I through which the torrent rushes to
i enter the Vintschgau. This is a long
day's walk, requiring fully 12 hrs., ex-
clusive of halts. A curious little Lap-
I land plant, Ravunculus pygviceiis, was
I first found in Tyrol near a small glacier
i above the pass here described. Starting
I from Unser Frau, the most direct way to
{ the Sehlandernauxithal is by the Mast-
I aunscharte, at the head of a short
j glen called Mastaunthal, opening SW.
t of the village. The pass (about 9,645')
j commands a noble view on both sides.
; It li«s on the X. side of the Mastaun-
: spitz (10,488'), and not to the S., as laid
, down on Sonklar's and other maps.
I 4. To Mais by the Langgrub Joch
I (10,005') ayid Matscherthal. Fend to
I Unser Frau 7 hrs. ; thence to Mais 10
' hrs. The Matscherthal is counted as
\ one of the most beautiful of the lateral
i valleys of the Vintschgau. Well culti-
1 rated at its lower end, and producing
' excellent crops, its Alpine pastures are
i reckoned among the richest in T}to1.
! The beauty of its herds, and the nu-
merous wolves that wage war against
them, are equally proverbial. The
moimtaineer will be still more attracted
by the grandeur of the peaks and gla-
ciers that enclose its head. The names
of the chief summits, commencing on
the SE. side of the valley, are the Rem,'
spitz (10,512'), Salurnspitz (11,260'),
Hintereisspitz (10,721'), Innere Quell-
spitze (10,889'j, Weisskugel (12,277'),
and Fuvtlesspitz. Until very lately the
only known pass leading into the head
of the valley was that named on the
government map Langgrub Joch, but
known as Matscher Joch, in the Schnal-
serthal and Upper Vintschgau. The
traveller taking this route from Fend
should, on the first day, proceed to Un-
ser Frau (either by the Nieder- or
Hoch Joch), and will there find in
Urban Grisch a competent guide. No
particulars respecting the pass have
reached the editor.
5. To Mais by the Hinterei-s Joch and
Matscherthal. About 13 hrs. from Fend.
In 1865 Messrs. Tuckett, Fox, and
r.OUTE C— LAKGTAUFErEE JOCH.
155
Freshfit'ld, with F. Devouassoud of
Chamouni, and P. Michel of Grindel-
wald, having reached the Langrauferer
Joch (see below) in 5if hrs. from Fend,
turned to the 1., and ascended the
Langtaufererspitz (11,626') by its N.
arete, and descended thence southward
to the upper part of the Hintereis Gla-
cier. They then mounted to a snow
col on the S. side of the Weisskugel,
about 11,400 ft. above the sea, now
known as the Hhitereis Joch. From
the summit of the pass the Weisskugel
was climbed without difficulty in 1 hr.,
and the return to the pass effected in
25 min. The descent into the head of
the Matscherthal was very steep.
' Keeping first to the S., beneath the
cliffs that "extend SE. from the pass,
and to the 1. of a rocky point protruding
from and dividing the upper neve of the
Matscber Glacier, they then bent round
to thert., and having reached the brow
of the lofty and magnificent ice-fall, cut
their way diagonally across its upper
and less dislocated portion to the rt.
lateral moraine, reached in l^-hr. Fol-
lowing this, or the slopes of rock and
turf, the end of the glacier was passed
in 20 min., the highest chalets reached
in I hr., Matsch in if hrs., and Schlu-
derns in 1 hr. more.' Throughout the
lower part of the valley the main tor-
rent, Klammbach, has cut a deep trench,
which at length becomes an impass-
able defile, and the lateral torrents de-
scending from the mountains on either
side have also cut deep ravines. There
is here a choice of paths. The way by
Schluderns is rougher but more pic-
turesque. Some way below the village
of Matsch, on a high promontory in the
angle formed by such a ravine and the
main stream, stand the ruins of two
castles. Unter-Matsch and Ober-
Matsch, once belonging to the power-
ful Counts of Matsch. The way to
Tartsch and Metis, which stand in the
open valley a little above the opening
of the Matscherthal, is by a cart-road
along the sh.pes on the NW. side of the
valley. This gradually turns to the
W. as it descends by the rounded
shoulder of the mountain, to Tartsrh
(Rte. A). 'J'he course taken by Mr.
Tuckett's party from Fend to the
Hintereis Joch obviously involvc-d a
considerable detour. There is no doubt
that the most direct way from Fend is
by the Rofenthal up to the foot of the
Hintereis Glacier and then by its main
branch ascending in a directiDU rather
S. of W. An alternative coarse was
discovered by ]\Ir. Holzmaun in 1868
more suited for a traveller whose guide
was unused to ice-work. Starting from
the Glieshof, near the head of the
Matscherthal, the Weisskugel was
climbed, partly by the Matscher
Glacier, partly by steep-looking rocks
on the S. face of the peak. Thence he
descended to the Hintereis Joch, and
crossed the ridge to the rt., separating
the Hintereis from the Steinschlag
Glacier, wliich occupies the extreme
uppermost end of the Schnalserthal.
The way lies to the I., keeping near the
ridge that bounds the glacier, and it is
then easy to descend to Kurzras. or to
reach the path over the Hoch Joch a
few minutes below the summit. By
this route the summit of the Weisskugel
has since been reached in less than
5 hrs. actual walking from Kurzras.
6. To Reschen, or St. Valentin, by the
Langtaufcrer Joch (IO,.'-).35') and Lang-
tau/ererthal, 11 to 12 hrs. from Fend.
The ascent to the Langtauferer Joch
lies about due W. from the foot of the
Hintereis Glacier. Care must be taken
to avoid the branch of that glacier that
descends from the Hintereis Joch at the S.
foot of the Weisskugel, and to keep a toler-
ably direct course along the base of the
Hoch Vernagtwand. The descent on the
W. side of the pass lies over the Langtau-
fcrer Ferner, which is less steep than
most of the glaciers lying on the outer
declivities of this group. At its head
the main branch of the Langtaufererthal
descends to WNW. as far as the first
group ofhouses, called J/a//aa, belonging
to the village of Hinterkiich. Two
glacier passes lead from hence into the
Kaunserthal (Rte. E). That best known
is the Weisse See Juch (9,657') ; the
156
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
Other keeps nearer to the base of the j
Hoch Glockenthurm (10,997')- A little
bc4ow Maliag another path, keeping
a little W. of N., and passing over the
Tscheycr Scharte to the 1. of the last-
named peak, leads into the head of the
Hadurschelthal. This is a rarely tra-
versed Alpine glen, inhabited only by
herdsmen in summer, whose torrent
joins the Inn a few miles below the
defile of Finstermiinz (Ete. A). A
traveller bent on exploring the least
known valleys of this district might \
accomplish the passage of the Tscheyer [
Scharte, and then cross a second pass on j
the N. side of a summit called Kaiser-
joch (10,198'), leading through a lateral
glen (Kaiserbergerthal) from the Ead-
urschelthal to the Kaunserthal. i
It is a walk of 3|- hrs. through the
Langtav.ferertkal from Maliag to G-rann,
on the high road a short way S. of the
Eeachen-Scheideck (Ete. A), where the \
Carlinbach issues to join the infant |
Adige. Having regard to the quantity
of water which it bears down from the
glaciers at the head of the valley, this*
may be considered the chief source of
the Adige. Several hamlets are passed
between Hinterkirch and Pedross, which
is the chief place near the opening of
the valley. About half-way two narrow
glens are seen to open on the S. side.
One of these passes to the E., the other
to the W. of the Danzewell (10,311').
Both glens lead to practicable cols over
the ridge dividing the Langtaufererthal
from the Planailthal. The latter wild
glen lies between the first and the
Matscherthal, but does not penetrate so
deeply into the snowy range as do the
neighbouring valleys.
On reaching Graun the traveller may
either turn northward to Nauders, or, if
his course be down the Vintschgau, he
will find a less attractive inn at the
post-station at St. Valentin.
EOUTE D.
SOLDEN TO MEEAN (OE NATXJENs) BY THE
GUEGLTHAX.
In describing the interior recesses of
the Oetzthal Alps, we have hitherto
omitted to notice the branch of the
valley whose opening was seen S. of
Zwieselstein. The G-urglthal is not in-
ferior to the Fenderthal in attractions
for the moimtaineer, except that it does
not offer so great a variety of expeditions
to his choice.
The best way from Zwieselstein to
Gurgl is by a path that mounts rather
steeply through forest on the 1. bank of
the main torrent, till, above the opening
of the Timblthal (Ete. B), it crosses to
the rt. bank near a waterfall formed by
the torrent from that glen. The valley
here opens and fairly enters the Alpine
region, leaving that of coniferous trees,
none but scattered arollas (Siberian
pines) being henceforward seen. In
about 1 hr. from the bridge the traveller
reaches Pill, the lowest hamlet of Gurgl.
Several small groups of houses are passed
in succession, and as the surrounding
peaks appear to close round the head of
the valley, and the traveller thinks him-
self approaching close to the foot of the
glaciers, a turn of the path round an
intervening green hillock discloses the
church and small village of Ghirgl
(6,238'), the higliest in the Eastern Alps.
There is no inn, but strangers are kindly
received by the parish-priest, and find
very fair quarters, for so remote a spot,
when the house is not overcrowded, as
sometimes happens in summer. The
former parish-priest, Herr Trientl, lately
removed to Gries, near Lengenfeld, has
given an interesting account of the valley
ROUTE D. — EISSEE, NEAR GUEGL.
157
in the second annual volume of the Aus- j
trian Alpine Club. i
The traveller who wishes to enjoy the |
scenery of this district cannot do better
than make his first halt in the upper \
Oetzthal at Gurgl, and after devoting a j
day or two to the neighbourhood, go from i
hence to Fend by the Ramol Joch ; but !
those who have already seen the Fender- |
thai may take Gurgl on the way to the
valley of the Adige, crossing one or other
of the passes njeiiiioned below. The best
guides here are Blasius Griiner, Peter
Paul Gstrein, and Rupert Scheiber. A
tariff of charges has been established,
considerably higher than formerly. For
thehigher peaks the rateis from 4 fl. to6
fl. ; and in many cases two guides are con-
sidered necessary for a single traveller.
The indispensable exciu-sion for the
visitor to Gurgl is that to the Eissee and
Great Oetzthahr Glacier. There is a
path by the 1. bank of the torrent ; but it
is steep and difficult, and that by the
opposite side of the valley is preferred.
About 20 min, above the village the
latter track reaches the Gaisbriicke, a
bridge crossing the torrent from a lateral
glen called Gaisberg, rarely visited by
tourists, but interesting to the naturalist
and geologist. At its head is a rather
considerable glacier which may be visited
by a detour from the path to the Eissee,
but deserves more leisurely examination.
Above it rise the peaks of the Granaten-
kogl (10,783') and the Kirchenkogl
(10,790'). The first derives its name
from the abundance of large garnets
found in the mica slate. As they have
been much sought after, good specimens
are not now easily found. On the oppo-
site or S. side of the glacier, the mica
slate passes into a micaceous clay slate,
with veins (or alternating layers ?) of
erygtalline limestone, connected with a
large cont'guous mass of dolomite. Fine
specimens of quartz crj^stals have been
found on the S, lateral moraine of the
glacier.
Continuing his course up the main
branch of the Gurglthal from the Gais-
briicke, the traveller in 1 hr. reaches the
opening of the Rothmoosthal, a lateral
glen parallel to the Gaisberg, also lead-
ing to a large glacier lying between the
Kirchenkogl audBoik?/tOoskogel\ 1 0,772').
H. Trientl narrates an accident that
befell a guide from Pf elders who accom-
panied two English travellers across this
glacier to Gurgl in 1863. His life was
saved after falling to a depth of nearly
70 feet into a crevasse.
Crossing the torrent from the Both-
moosferner, the traveller follows the path
about SSW. to Schonwies, where sheep
and goats are pastured in summer. A
rather steep ascent follows, but the path
has been lately improved, and on tuniing
a corner of rock the traveller suddenly
finds himself face to face with the great
glacier, appropriately named Grosse
Oetzthaler Ferner, as it is seen in the
back ground from the lower part of ttie
main valley. In the early summer the
attention of the traveller will be at once
arrested by the Eissee, or Gurgler Lake,
This is formed in the same manner as
other small glacier-lakes in Switzerland
and Tyrol, but, when full, is on a larger
scale than any of them. The torrent
from the Langthaler Ferner which flows
from due S. into the head of the Gurgl-
tlial is arrested by the larger glacier,
which fills the trough of the valley. In
the spring and early summer, when the
Langthaler torrent is much increased in
volume, the waters accumulate till they
fill the entire space between the two
glaciers, forming a lake about 1 nu in
length, nearly ^ m. broad, and 400 ft.
deep at the lower end where it abuts
against the lower glacier. Large ma-sses
of floating ice form miniature ice-bergs
on its sui-face, and the conditions which
have caused the disastrous inundations
in the neighbouring Eofenthal (Rte. C)
seem to be repeated. In fact, some
damage was done in the early part of
the last century by the rapid outflo-w
from the lake, but, as an ordinary rule,
the accumulation stops when the stream
has reached the level of the lower glacier
on its W, bank. Mainly by a process
well explained by Sonklar, the water ex-
cavates a passage under the ice dam,
while at the sometime a stream near the
158
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
bank gradually deepens its bed, and so
the lake is drained without a dangerous
outburst of the pent-up waters. A small
grove of arollus is seen near the base of
the Grosse Ferner at the unusual height
of about 7,100 ft.
The mountaineer should ascend the
northern peak of the Schicurzenspitz
(9,761'), between the two great glaciers
of the valley. It commands a noble view.
The easiest pass from Gurgl to
Fend is doubtless that by the Ramol
Jock (10.537), Iving between the
Hamolkoyel (11 ,6do) and the Stoiterhorn
(11,2.57'). A path has been constructed
of late years, and 6 hours steady walk-
ing fully suffice for the passage. Fol-
lowing the steep path by the 1. side of
the torrent, the summit is attained by
the slopes W. of the great glacier, and
the descent lies over the Spiegelfemer,
whose torrent runs into the lower part
of the Niederthal (Rte. C) about 1 hr:
above Fend. It appears easy to combine
the ascent of the Stotterhorn with the
passage of the Joch ; but that of the
Ramolkogel costs more time. A more
direct way from Gurgl to Fend lies over
the Fallferner (6 to 7 hrs.). This course
is interesting chiefly for the prodigious
development of the ancient moraines on
the \V. side of the Gurghhal. It is said
that from 60 to 80 parallel moraines may
in some places be traced on the slope
extending from the bottom of the valley
to a height of 2,600 ft. The ascent of
the NoderkoglOQ.Zlo), the summit of
which is easily reached in 5 hrs. from
Gurgl, may also be taken on the way
from that village to Fend.
Passes from Gurgl to Meran. The
easiest way from Gurgl to 3Ieran is the
circuitous course by the Timbler Joch
noticed in Ete. B. It is a very long
day's walk. A shorter way to Kaben-
Btein in the upper Passeyerthalisby the
Ko7iigsthal, a short glen, whose torrent
falls into the Gurglthal at Sagemiihle,
about ^ hr. below the village. The
pass, called Saber Joch, is said to be
very rough, rather difficult, and to cost
as much time as the way by the Timbler
Joch. The most direct way to Plan in
the Pfeldersthal is by the Bothmoosfer'
ner (see last page). This glacier rises
by successive steep slopes alternating
with nearly level terraces. Some wide
transverse crevasses are difficult to pass
when not covered by solid snow bridges.
The S. side is easy, and Plan is reached
in b\ hrs. from Giirgl. The ordinary
way to the Pfeldersthal is by the Lang-
thaler Joch (9,939'). This pass, reached
in 4^ hrs. from Gurgl, lies to the
E. of the Hochwildspitz (11,410'), one
of the highest summits in the main
range S. of Gurgl — the corner-stone
whereat meet the Gurglthal, Pfelders-
thal, and Pfossenthal. The ascent is by
the Langthalerferner, which is divided
from the Grosse Ferner by the ridge of
, the Schwarzenspitz, The glacier comes
! to an end at the summit, and a steep,
! but not very difficult, rock descent leads
i down to Lazins at the head of the Pfel-
I dersthal. The way being lono^, an early
I start is expedient. The view, which
' extends eastward to the snowy peaks of
I the Tauern Alps, and southward to the
j dolomite mountains of Fassa and Ca-
: dore, is magnificent.
In descending from the Langthaler
1 Joch, the traveller has a choice between
three diffi-rent courses. He may bear
to the rt. in order to cross the Gruben
Joch (9,548'), which leads from the head
of the Pfeldersthal to that of the Pfos-
senthal, passing between the Hochwild-
spitz to the N. and the Hochweissspitz
(about 10,370' ?) to the S. This would
lead to Karthaus in the Schnalserthal,
but the shortest and most interesting
way to that place is by the Gurgl Joch
(see below).
The second course offered to the moun-
taineer is to bear to the 1. and descend
the Pfeldersthal to Flan ( 5,341'), the chief
village of the valley, and on that account
often called Pfelders. It is reached in
3^ hrs. from the summit of the pass.
There are now two inns at Plan, and it
is no longer necessary to seek hospitality
at the priest's house. 2 hrs. lower
do-wn, near the opening of the valley, is
the village of Piatt. The Pfeldersthal
is a lateral glen which joins the main
ROUTE D. — PFOSSENTHAL.
159
branch of the Passeyerthal at Moos {
(Rto. B), but, as its level is much
higher, the path descends rapidly from
Piatt, and the torrent, after passing
through a ravine, issues in a fine water-
fall — the Platter Fall — a short distance
from Moos.
As the Pfeldersthal descends nearly
due KE. from its head to its junction
with the upper Passeyerthal — i.e. in a
direction nearly exactly opposite to that
of the lower part of the valley between
St. Leonhard andMeran, the course last
described is very circuitous, involving
fully 11 hrs. steady walking from the
Langthaler Joch to Meran. A much
more interesting way, rougher, but
scarcely half as far in actual distance, is
by the Spronscr Joch. To reach this the
traveller, after descending to Lazins, a
group of huts near the head of the Pfel-
dersthal, merely crosses the latter valley,
and begins to '■mount, nearly due S.,
through a lateral glen called Lazinser-
thal, which leads to the pass (8,440'
ft. high). The view of the range of
snowy peaks on the opposite side of the
Pfeldersthal is said to be very fine. On
tlie S. side of the Spronser Joch the path
lies for a considerable distance through
an upland valley containing five or six
small lakes, whence a rapid descent leads
into the Spronserthal, a wild glen en-
closed between steep walls of rock. The
traveller may follow this down to its
junction with the Passeyerthal near
Meran, or he may take a rather more
direct way, passing by Schloss Tyrol
(Ete. A\ and descending by the path
from thence to the town. In this way
Meran may be reached in 10 hrs. steady
walking from Grurgl. A guide is required,
not only for the passage of the Lang-
thaler Joch, but also for the way fi-om
Lazins to the lower part of the Spron-
serthal.
Girrgl to Natur7is hy the Gurgl Joch
and Ffossenthal. The pass over the ]
head of the great Oetzthaler Glacier, i
and the descent through the Pfosson- '•
thai to Karthaus in the Schnalserthal, is
very rarely eifected, though one of the
most interesting excursions in this dis-
trict. An ascent of 2 hrs. from the
Eissee, partly over the glacier, partly
by steep slope ■ on the E. bank, leads
to the Steiuerne Tisch (9,560'), a huge
block lying close to the edge of the
ice. Here begins the neve, and of course
the rope should be put on. A Dr.
Blirstenbinder from Berlin, refusing to
adopt that precaution, was hauled up a
corpse from a crevasse into which he had
fallen. In 1|- hr. from the Steinerne
Tisch, or less if the snow be in good
order, the traveller reaches the summit
of the Gurgler Joch (9,956'), lying be-
tween the Hochwildspitz (11,410') and
the Karlesintz (11,256'). Although the
descent into the Pfossenthal is at first
extremely steep, the people of the
Schnalserthal annually send a large
flock of sheep this way to the pastures
above Grurgl. Many accidents are. re-
corded. In June 1844, the flock was
surprised by a snow storm on the gla-
cier, and more than 200 sheep, with one
of the shepherds, were frozen to death.
At Eishof (6,790'), a large stone house
at the head of the Pfossenthal, the tra-
veller joins the path leading from the
Pfeldersthal over the Gruben Joch,
and then descends, at first due W.,
through this wild valley, one of the
deepest and most savage in Tyrol, but
rarely traversed by the foot of a stranger.
From Mitterkaser, where the Pfossenthal
bends to the S.,a path leads to St. Katha-
rina, on the E. side of the Schnalser-
thal. If the traveller be bound for
Naturns he may keep to the track on
the 1. side of the valley. Should he de-
sign to return to Fend, or traverse any
of the passes described in Hie. C, he will
cross the main valley to Karthaus (10
hrs. from Gurgl). and seek night- quar-
ters there, or at the better inn at Unser
Liebe Frau.
The passaae of the Gurgl Joch may-
be combined with the ascent of the
Xar/e*/)//r( 11,256'), commanding a very
fine view of the surrounding peaks and
glaciers. This is effected by a steep
climb along a rocky ridge that extends
southward from the summit. Instead of
returning the same way and descending
ICO
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS, § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
to the Pfossenthal, the travelLr may I pass connecting this great glacier with
descend to Fend across a great basin of
liCvc above tlie head of the Schatferner,
which falls into the Nit-derthal close to
the lower end of tbe Maizott Glacier.
In 3 hrs. (fast going; the path in the
Niederthal is reached from the sunimit.
Another route sometimes taken from
Gurgl to Fend lies over the sunimit of
the SchaI//ioyel(l\M'2') ; this is shorter
than the way by the Karlespitz, but the
view is said [o be less interesting.
The -writer has seen no notice of the
ascent of the Rotkbergspitz (11,904') —
called Rothenspitz on Sonklar's map —
next to_ the Weis^kugel. the highest
summit in the range dividing the Adige
from the Inn. It rises NW. of Mitter-
kaser in the Pfossenthal and outtops
the Similaun by 94 feet.
Fend, recently called Gebatsch Joch,
offers a sample of the strange effects of
vague rumour in exaggerating the perils
of Alpine adventure. The pass appears
to have been at one time frequently
uskI by the natives of Fend, who passed
that way to the pilgrimage church of
Kaltenbrunn in the Kaunserthal. Of
late it has been rarely used, and has
acquired the name of a dangerous pass.
Even in a work so generally accurate
as the second edition of Schaubach,
published in 1866, it is alluded to as
only to be attempted ' at peril of life,
and probably impracticable since Nico-
demus IClotz no longer undertakes to
act as guide.' The ' Jahrbuch of the
Austrian Alpine Club,' however, con-
tains two accounts of the pass which
was traversed early in July 1860 by
Herr "Weilenmann, and about six weeks
later by Dr. A. v. Kuthner. As in all
similar expeditions the constant use of
the rope is indispensable, and when
there is little snow on the upper part of
the Gebatschferner, the crevasses may
give some trouble, but in their ordinary
condition the glaciers on both sides seem
to be singularly free from difficulty, as
may be inferred from the fact that Herr
Weilenmann reached the pastures of the
Platteyberg above Eofen in 5 hrs. from
the Gebatschalp in the KaunserthaL
The confusion existing as to the true
names of many of the peaks and glaciers
in this district, and the want of agree-
darj- ridges that stretch northward from j ment between the beet maps, makes it
Eoui-E E.
1A^-DECK TO KEXD, BY THE KAtJNSEE-
THAT. AXD GEBATSCH JOCH.
It was remarked in the introduction
to this section that the Fenderthal, or
main branch of the Upper Oetzthal, is
walled in on the NW. side by the high-
est of the ridges making up the group
of the Oetzthal Alps. This, which has
by Sonklar been collectively called
Weisskamm, contains the three highest
summits of the entire group, and no-
where sinks below the level of about
10,400 ft. The three parallel secon-
the Weisskamm towards the Innthal
enclose two valleys, the Kaunserthal to
the W., and Pitzthal to the E., that
deserve far more attention than they
have received from travellers. Glaciers
of the grandest character enclose each
valley at the upper end, and very in-
teresting passes afford to the moun-
taineer a choice of agreeable routes for
approaching Fend, or travelling thence
to the Innthal. The greatest of these
diificult to follow the narratives above
alluded to without risk of error.
The Kaunserthal was referred to in
Ete. A, as the post-road to the Finster-
miinz passes the opening of the valley
at Prutz, about 3 hrs. above Landeck.
From the foot of the Gebatsch Glacier
to near Kaltenbrunn (5 hrs. walk) the
valley descends due N., but then turns
westward, and for 2 hrs. more keeps a
course but little N. of W. to Prutz.
glaciers, the longest in the Alps E. of I The range on the W. side of the valley
the Adige, is the Gelatschferner, also
written Gepaatschferner, which falls
into tlie head of the Kaimserthal. The
includes the following principal sum-
mits, some of which are liable to be
confounded with others of the same
ROUTE E. — KAUNSEKTHAL.
161
name in this district. Karls-sjpitz
( 10,253'), Zirmes-spitz (9,652'), Glork-
haus (10,159'), Kaiserjoeh (10,198'),
Glockenthurm (10,998'), and lastly the
Weissseespitz (11,618'), rising nbove
the W. side of the Gebatsch Glacier,
and joining the main range of the Weiss-
kamm. In the range dividing the
Kaunser and Pitz valleys the main
summits in ascending from N. towards
S. are the Aif^^ispitz (8,403'). PdscheJ-
kopf(9,bWi Watzekopf{9,o51'), Blick-
spitz (11,047'), and the range is linked
to the Weisskamm by the Oelgruhcnspitz
(about 11,000').
As happens in nearly all the valleys
radiating from the snowy group of the
Oetztha-1 Alps, the Faggenhach, which
drains the Kuunserthal, has at the
opening of the valley cut a very deep
cleft, through which it issues to join the
Inn at Prutz. A sharp ascent of more
than 800 ft. leads from that village to
Kauns (3,557'), a thriving village, with
an ancient castle (Bareneck), repaired
and modernised by its present owner.
Overlooking in some places the deep
gorge of the Faggenbach, the path along
the rt. bank leads in 2 hrs. from Prutz
to
Kaltenbrunn (4,181'). A large and
handsome church, with but half a dozen
houses, one of which is a rough but
tolerable inn, marks a spot much re-
sorted to by pilgrims from the neigh-
bouring valleys. The name is ap-
parently derived from a jet of very
pure and cold water that is made to
issue from a crucifix of life size opposite
the church porch. In approaching this
place from the Innthal below Imst, the
shortest way is by the lower part of the
Pitzthal, and the path of the Piller
Joch, then following a track leading
along the W. base of the Aifenspitz to
Kauns. In approaching Kaltenbrunn,
the stranger might suppose himself
near the head of the valley, as above it
the mountains seem to close together,
but a short distance farther on an
abrupt bend in the course of the stream
opens before the traveller the long reach
of the upper valley, extending without
C. T. *
a break to the foot of the Gebatsch
Glacier. The scenery is somewhat
monotonous, the more so as the higher
summits are often shut out from view.
The valley is very subject to avalanches
in winter and spring, no less than
36 habitual avalanche-channels being
pointed out on the slopes on either side.
Further peril and loss to the natives of
the valley is caused by the impetuous
torrent of the Faggenbach, which often
overflows its channel, bearing do^vn
masses of sand and gravel over the
pastures and fields. The destruction
of the forests is, as usual, tlie main
source of mischief The only village i.s
Fcvckten (4,325'), a very small place,
with a rough but tolerably clean inn,
kept by Gfall. Near at hand is tlie
Gsollbtichfull,a. waterfall of much local
repute. It is formed by the Gsollbach,
a torrent descending from the Disten-
kopf, which springs over nine successive
ledges of rock, in as many cascades,
whose united lieightis 1,375 ft. Four of
these are visible from the ordinary path,
but the supply of water is often insuffi-
cient. The Brunigbach iail, higher up
in tiie valley, which descends 498 ft. in
a single bound, is more picturesque.
Several pa.^ses, noticed in lUe. G, lead
from the lower part of the Kaunserilial
tc the adjoining valleys. Another
pass leads westward from Feuchten to
the Innthal through the Christinathal.
The higher of the VerpeUsiiitzen, two
very steep (supposed inaccessible) obe-
lisks of rock that projectfrom the snowy
range E. of Feuchten, has been twice
climbed by travellers, each time under
the guidance of Gabriel Spekteu-
hauser. On the secf nd occasion the
descent was made to Feuchten.
'There are several scattered groups of
houses above Feuchten, at one of which,
called Eifenhof, dwell the brothers
Auer, of whom the younger, named
Johann, is counted the best guide in the
valley. He accompanied M. Weilen-
mann, and other subsequent travellers,
over the pass to Fend. An avalancho
of mud, gravel, and stones, poured down
through a cleft on the E. side of tha
162
CENTRAL TYRf)L ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
valley in 1862, has ruined the best
pasturages in the valley, and reduced
the few inhabitants to poverty. Four
hrs. from Feuchten, or o^ hrs. from
Kaltenbrunn, the traveller reaches the
Gebatschalp (6,225') — also called Oel-
grubenalp — with the last huts, close to
the foot of the great glacier. Connected
with the Pitzthal by the Oelgruben
J(;ch (Rte. G), and with the Lang-
taufererthal by the Weisse See Joch,
and close to the largest glacier of the
Eastern Alps, this spot may serve as a
centre for many interesting excursions,
and the German Alpine Club has ju-
diciously built at a place some 20 min.
above the chief hiitten a place of refuge
for travelkrs. For a general view the
best point is the Wonnetierg (9,625'), a
western outlyerfrom the Oelgrubenspitz.
commanding an admirable view of the
Gebatsch Glacier.
This great ice-stream is divided at its
lower end by the BauchJcopf (9,796'),
a massive island of rock, round whose
eastern side the larger arm of the
glacier falls in a rather steep ice-fall,
while the narrower branch descends on
the W. side. The easiest way to reach
the upper plateau of the glacier is to
climb the rocks of the Klein Rauchkopf,
lying E. of the main mass, and sepa-
rated from it by an ice-couloir. On
reaching the summit, the Hochnagel-
warid (11,623') is seen due S., while a
range of dark rocks called Schwarae
Wand encloses the glacier on the SE.
side. The pass to Rofen and Fend lies
on the E. side of the first-named ridge.
It is said that the upper part of the
Gebatsch Glacier is very difficult when
the n^v6 is so far melted as to leave
exposed the great crevasses by which it
is intersected, but no such difficulty
.was encountered by either of the tra-
vellers who have given an account of
the pass, and Mr. Weilenmann reached
the summit in 3^ hrs.from the Gebatsch-
alp. The height of the Gebatsch Jcch
has not been measured, but has been
estimated by Mr. Tuckett at about
10,800 ft.
The next high sununit to the E. is the
I ProchJcogl (11,926'), beyond which the
I Wildspitz asserts its .supremacy over all
j the surrounding peaks. Contrary to
' the current belief on the subject, the
Gebatsch Joch leads to the NW. branch
of the Hoch Vernagtferner, and not
to the Kesselwand GL, or N. branch of
the Hintereis Glacier. In descending
it is expedient to bear to the 1. down
the gentle elopes of neve that lead to
the point where the Eofenthalfemer
joins the main stream. No difficulty is
found in leaving the glacier on its £.
bank, near to the highest pastures of
the Piatt eyberg above Rofen, which is
easily reached in another hour. See
Rte. C.
ROITTE F.
IMST TO FEKD, BY THE PITZTHAL.
Although the majority of travellers
will naturally choose the easy route
from the valley of the Inn to Fend or
Gurgl, through the Oetzthal (Rte. B),
not a few momitaineers may be tempted
to prefer the way through the Pitzthal,
here briefly described. There is a choice
between three rather difficult glacier-
passes leading directly to Fend, and the
less arduous passes noticed in the next
Rte., connecting th.^ head of the valley
with Solden or the Kaunserthal.
Not taking into account the lateral
glen of the Taschachthal, the head of
the Pitzthal descends from S. to N. for
about 9 m. parallel to the Kaunserthal,
till, at St. Leonhard, it bends to the 1.,
and for about the same distance follows
a NW. direction to Kreith, where it
unites with the little glen descending
from the Pillerjoch, turns to NE., and
joins the valley of the Inn a little below
Imst. The distance from the opening
of the valley to the Mittelbergalp near
the foot of the great glacier is counted
as 11 Stunden. Crossing the Inn by
the Langenbriicke below Irast, a cart-
track mounts to Arzl, a large scattered
village, overlooking the junction of the
Gurglthal (§ 42, Rte. A\ and the Pitz-
thai with, the Inn. The track thence
ROUTE F. PITZTHAL.
1G3
inounts alone: the 1. bank of the torrent
to Wens (2,831'), 1^ hr. aboA-e Arzl, a
thriving villaae, with massive stone
houses, overlooked by the still inhabited
castle of Hirschberg. It will not escape
the traveller's notice that the short
lateral glen, opening; to SW., and lead-
ing over the low Pillerjoch to Prutz, is
the orographic continuation of the upper
valley of the Inn, and affords one more
instance of the truth that the direction
of the existing valleys and depressions
of the Alps is not what should be ex-
pected by those who believe that these
originate exclusively in erosive action.
The path to the Pillerjoch passes by
Kreith, while that leading up the main
valley crosses the torrent to Jerzeus,
near to the Stuihenfall, a fine waterfall,
not to be confounded with others of the
same name in the Oetzthal and else-
where. Henceforward the slopes on
the E. side of the valley are extremely
steep, merely showing patches of snow
and short tongues of glacier protruding
through the openings in the range. On
the opposite side the slope is gentler,
and many short lateral glens lead up to
the glaciers that extend almost continu-
ously along the ridge. Not less than
fifteen are said to send their torrents
from that side into the Pitzthal. The
track which is practicable for rough
country vehicles as far as St. Leonhard,
keeps to the rt. bank between Jerzens
and Ritzenried, soon after crosses to the
1. bank, but returns to the opposite side
to Harlach, ami in 6|- hrs. from Arzl
leads the traveller to
St. Leonhard (4,58i'). This is the
chief place in the valley, and might
serve as headquarters for a traveller
wishing to explore the fine ranges that
enclose it on either side. The names of
the chief summits in the Kaunsergrat
are enumerated in the last route. Those
of the opposite ridge between this
and the Oetzthal (or Pitzkamm of
Sonklar), reckoning from N. to S., are as
Mlows:—Wildgratkogl (9,744'), ^ohe
Feiler (10,092'), FeuerJcogl (10,100'?).
Hohe Gcige {11,128'), Puikogl (10,965'),
and Schwarze KogeU (10,675'). The
latter, said to command an especially
fine view, is reached with little dithculty
from Mittelberg. The passes over botli
these high ranges are noticed in the next
Rte. Passing on the way the hamlet of
Trenkwaid, in 3 hrs. from St. Leonhard,
the traveller reaches Platigeros (5,464'),
the highest village in the valley, where
a small inn (Traube), kept by very
civil people, supplies lodging and enter-
tainment. Here trees become scarce,
and too few remain on the slopes to
ward oS" avalanches from the houses,
scattered through the upper valley.
The path passes three hamlets belong-
ing to Plangeros — Tieflehn. Manndorf.
and Mittelberg (5,880'). The latter is
a mere group of hiltten. very near to the
foot of the great Mittelberg Glacier,
whose ice-fall, said to be the grandest
in Tyrol, is full in view. Here tbe main
valley comes to an end, but a wild lateral
glen, Taschachthal, opens to the SW.
It is surrounded by high glaciers, of
which the Taschach and Sechsegerten
Glaciers descend from the main rang-.e
N. of the Wildspitz, while over the Oel-
grubenferner lies a way to the Kaunser-
thal. Travellers may now find good
shelter for the night at the Taschach-
hiitte, lately built hy the German Alpine
Club. The best guides in the valley are
'der Bauer,' in Mittelberg, and a man
(name unknown"! at the preceding hamlet
of Manndorf. The better guides of the
Oetzthal (especially Alois Ennemoser)
and Gabriel Spektenhauser of Unter
Liehe Frau, are probably much more
useful than any native of the valley.
The westernmost pass, which may be
called Taschach Joch, was traversed by
Dr. Ruthner in 1858. Mounting from
Rofen by the Platteyberg to the upper
plateau of the Vernagt Glacier, as on
the way to the Gebatsch Joch, the pass
leading to the Taschachferner was ap-
proached by the SE. corner of the pla-
teau. From thence hedescended through
the Taschachthal to Mittelberg.
The highest and most difficult, but
probably the finest, of the three passes
was effected by Messrs. Tuckett, Fresh-
field, and Fox, in 1865, ou the same day
♦m 2
164
CE::TRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
on which they ascended the Wildspitz
(Kte. C).
After descending eastward from the
Wildspitz to the head of the Ilofen-
kar-Kees. and then keeping round well
to the I., they dropped down upon the
lowest point in the ridge connecting the
Wildspitz with the WeisskopJ\\ 1,209'),
often called Fender Weisskugel. The
pass, connecting the neve of the Rofen-
kar with that of the Mittelherg Gi., has
been called Mutelberger Juch, and, being
but little below the summit of the
Weisskopf, may be estimated at about
1 1 ,000 ft.
The descent was made by 'the east-
ern of the two great bays into which
the Mittelberg Gl. is divided by the
Hochwand, and no diflficuities were en-
countered till the brow of the upper ice-
fall was reached at the point where the
highly crevassed Hanyendeferner comes
down from the E. at rt. angles to the
main ice stream.' A passage through
the seracs was soon effected, and the
rt. lateral moraine was reached in 2 hrs.
from the pass. Two hrs. more of steep
climbing were required to reach the
terminal moraine, whence the Hiitlen
of the Mittelbergalp were reached in
another ^ hr.
An easier way for descending from
the Wildspitz to Plangeros was dis-
covered in 1869 by ^Messrs. Noon,
Pendlebury, and Berreiter of Innsbruck.
Turning westward from the summit,
and keeping well to the 1., they easily
reached the level snow-field at the
head of the Taschach Ghicicr. Then
keeping a general NNV. direction, and
passing some crevassed glacier, their
course was t)arred by impassable cre-
vasses till turning E. they found an
easy descent along the lidge dividing
the Taschach from the Mittelberg
Glacier, and finally completed the de-
scent by the former ice-stream.
The pass of the Schuarze Schneide
has proba])ly been long kn'^^n to the
people of the upper Pitztha., out the
first recorded p;issage was by M. Ep-
senhardt, of iJerlin, with the curate
iif Piangeros, in 1863. it is described
by Herr Senn, parish priest of Fend,
in the 2nd annual volume of the
Austrian Alpine Club. This route
to Fend involves two passes, of which
that of the Schwarze Schneide traverses
the dividing ridge between the Pitzthal
and Oetzthal, while the Sdter JochL
connects the Tiefenthal Gl. (cr Seiter-
ferner)with the head of the Rettenbach-
fenier. The way from Mittelberg
mounts, as in the passage of the Mittel-
berger Joch, by the rt. bank or E. side
of ttie great lower ice-fall, and in a
similar way surmounts the ice-fall of the
Hangendeferner by ascending the steep
western slopes of the Karleskogl. It
dues not appear that any serious diffi-
culty is encountered in reaching the
summit of the pass which traverses the
ridge called Schwarze Schneide, probably
about 10,000 ft. in height. The view iu
both directions is very striking. To
the E. descends the Retteubachferner, a
glacier of considerable extent, though
inferior to the great ice-stream that has
accompanied the traveller during the
ascent. If followed by the traveller, it
would lead him through the Rettenbach-
thal to Solden in the Oetzthal. To reach
Fend, it is necessary to cross the neve at
the head of the Rettenbach Gl. in a di-
rection somewhat W. of S. to reach the
Setter Jochl{a.hom 9,850' ?). a depression
in the ridge dividing that glacier from
the much smaller Tiefenthai Ghcier.
There is no difficulty in the descent from
the second col to the Mutboden men-
tioned in Rte. C as commanding one of
the finest views near Fend. From 8 to
9 hrs., exclusive of hults. should be
allowed for this way from Mittelberg to
Fend. Those who do not attempt any-
one of these laborious glacier passes
may well make the ascent of the Mit-
tayskoyel (10,357'), ovcilooking the
Mittelberg Glacier. The view is highly
spoken of by Sonklar. It is impossible
in the present work to do more than
refer the reader to the interesting
observations on the glaciers of this
valley contained in the \\ork of that
careful writer.
KOUTE G. TUUn OF THE OETZIIIAL ALPS.
165
Route G,
tour of the oetzthal alps. lengf.n-
peld, or solden, to st. leonhard
in the passeyerthal.
A n enterprising mountaineer favoured
"by a run ot fine 'wcatlit-rmay tnjoy such
a series of fine glacier-passes as rannot
be easily matched elsewhere in the Alps,
by accomplishing the complete tour of
ihe Oetzthal Alps from the Oetzihal to
the Passeyerthal, and visiting on the
-nay the upper part of each of the val-
leys mentioned in the introduction to
this section that radiate from the central
mass. In the preceding l^tes. most of
the passes that -would be taken in this
tour have been noticed, but it -will be
convenient to enumerate them in order
liere.
Befween the Oetzthal and Pitzthal,
and this and the Kaunserthal, there is
a choice among various passes, of -which
those nearest the main chain here
obtain precedence.
Passes from ihe Oetzthal to the Pitzthal.
1. Pitzthaler Jochl (9,806'). Leads
from Solden to Plangeros in G to 6^ hrs.
The Editor has received an account
of this pass, as made from Plangeros
to Solden by Mr. Holzmann -with
Tobias Ennemoser as guide. Ascending
by the rt. bank of the torrent, without
crossing to the Mittelberg huts, they
reached in 1 hr. the end of the Mittfl-
berg Gi. Still ascending by the rt.
moraine for ^ hr., nearly to the loot of
the icefail, they then turned due E.
and in .50 min. reached a stone pyramid
visible fro 11 below. Leaving the small
Schwarzkogel to the rt. a further
ascent of I hr. leads to a second stone
pyramid which is close to the top of
the Polles Pass. Turning to the rt.,
and climbing a slightly projecting rock
marked by a pole, a few steps more
lead to a third stone pyramid marking
the summit of the Pitzthaler Jochl, of
■which the height has perhaps been
exaggerated. A short couloir leads
down to the Rettenbach Glacier, rather
steep but not difficult. In ascending
it may be better to keep to the s^ope
above the 1. lateral moraine. Less
than 1 hr. suffices to reach the oi^ening
of the Rettenbaclithal from the foot of
the glacier, and after crossing the main
torrent the traveller may reach SoWen
in 35 min. more.
2. By the Gschrahhngl - Gktscher.
Above Hube, in the Oetzthal, between
Solden and Lengenfeld, a short glen
called rolh'sthul leads to the above-
named glacier, also called Polles Giet-
scher. 'Ihe pass at the head of that
glacier is only a few hundred ft. N. of
the Pitzthaler Jochl, and the descent is
by the way above descrihed.
3. By the Bradler Jvch ( about 9, .500'?).
This connects Lengenfeld with the
Hundstlial, a wild rough glen that joins
the Pitzthal near Trenkwald. ashort way
below Plangeros. This pass, which does
not involve the passage of glacier, takes
7. hrs. exclusive of halts. A more diffi-
cult course irom Lengenfeld to St. Leon-
hard is sometimes taken across the Ra-
nachferner, but scarcely deserves to be
counted as a pass.
4. By the GriibelJoch (9,0.50'.?). A
tract mounts from Umhausen through
the Lairschthul, and alter passing close
under the S. side of the AVildgratkogl,
turns southward, and again resumes its
westerly directiim till it reaches the
Pitzthal at Giilbel, ^ hr. above Ritzen-
ried.
Passes from the Pitzthal to the Kaunser-
thal.
1, By the Oelyruben Joch (9,400'.?).
This pass, which appears to be easy
considering its height, is taken from
Mittelberg at the hi ad of the Pitzthal
by mounting through the Tuschnchihal.
About 7 hrs. suffice to leach the Ge-
batschalpfrom Plangeros. In going fVom
Plangeros, it is siiorter to take a path to
the rt. of the Mittelberg huts, and just
above the opening of the Taschach
valley to cross to the rt. bank of the
torrent, returning to the 1. bank about
\ hr. farther on. After passing in front
of the great ice-falls of the Taschach
Glacier yVihich seen from below appears
166
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 48. OETZTHAL DISTRICT.
to bar the valley, an upper basin is ]
reached which is closed by the Sachs- j
eierten Glacier. Tiiis is reached in 3
to 3^ hrs. steady walking from Plan-
geros. The lower part is crossed
diagonally in order to attain to the small
Oelyrubei'ifenier and to the summit of
the pass. The latter name is given to
the small glaciers on both sides of the
ridge. A long slope of debris leads
down to the Lower Oelgruben Gl, which
is traversed for some way, keeping near j
the rt. lateral moraine. Below this a !
tract leads down into the head of the j
Kaunserthal; and on reaching it, it is j
necessary to turn to the 1. and ascend ;
the valley (less than 200 yds.) to reach j
the bridge crossing the torrent to tiie i
Gebaisch Alp. The traveller may j
either seek shelter at the Alpine Club
hut (Rte. E ), or go to Feuchten ; fully
3 lirs. descending the valley.
2. By the Verpeil Joch. The tra-
veller who has reached Trenkwald from
Lengenfeld by the Bradler Joch (see
above) may on the same day traverse
this pass between the Sonneikogl and
Schwahenkogl, leading in 6 hrs., exclu-
sive of halts, to Feuchten (Rte. E). The
way is said to be very rough and steep,
requiring a local guide ; and the diffi-
culty of finding one would present a
serious obstacle to the traveller wishing
to effect both passes on the same day.
3. By the Tiefenthal Joch (8,703').
This leads from St.Leonhard to Kalten-
brunn, and is easier than the last. The
track passes under the Feischelkoyl
(9,546'), and is said to command fine
views.
4. BytheNiederJochl{1M^'). This
is the easiest and most frequented (f
the passes connecting the Pitzthal and
Kaunserthal. It is best taken from
Harlach(Rie. F),abouthalfway between
St. Leonhard and Hitzenried. and by it
Kaltenbrunn is reached in 5 hrs., ex-
clusive of halts.
Passes from the Kaunserfhal to the
Lanyiaiif ever thai.
The direct way from the Gebatsohalp,
at the head of the Kaunserthal, to
Mallag, in the LanLtaufererthal, is by
the Weisse SceJoch (9,G")7'). 'J'he course
is about due SW. to the Weisse See
(8,273'), a small g:acier-lake. Thence,
amid very grand scenery, the traveller
mounts, bearing a little to the 1. to the
glacier that covers the summit of the
pass. From 6 to 6^ hrs. suffice to
reach Mallag, the highest hamlet of
Langtaufers. There is another pass,
or a variation on the Weisse See Joch,
as to which the scant notices that have
reached the writer are not accordant.
It is said to pass close under the
Gluckenihurni (10.997'), and to be
longer than the ordinary route.
The traveller who would add one more
to the number of unfrequented valleys
visited in the tour of the Oetzthal Alps
may take the head of the Radursehel-
thal ou his way to the Langtautererthal.
About 1 hr. below the Gebatschalp he
may follow a track that mounts west-
ward to the Kaiser Joch, and descends
into the head of the Radui'schelthal ;
and he may reach Mallag on the same
day by turning about due S., and
crossing the Tscheyer Scharte (Rte.
C). Thi> would involve a very long
day's walk.
A Pass front Mallag to (he head of the
Matscherthtl, between the Freibrun-
nisrspitz (11,719') and the Weisskugel,
is mentioned by Sonklar under the
name Matscher Joch. It was pointed
out by shepherds at Mallag, who spoke
of it as dangerous and very rarely used,
but no traveller is known to have pass.-d
that way. As mentioned in Rte. C,
there are two passes leading from the
middle part of the Langtaufererthal to
the Platiailthal. It is most likely that
the herdsmen of that valley are ac-
quainted with some pass leading across
the ridge SW. of the Portlesspitz
(10,066') to the Matscherthal.
Pass from the Mat.^tcherthal to the
SchnaUerthal.
The only one known is the Langyrub
Joch, better known in the Schnalsenhal
as Matscher Joch, noticed in Rte. C.
Particulars as to this pass, which lies
STUBAY DISTRICT.
167
immediately N. of the Salurnspitz
(1 1,260'), are much desired.
Pass from the Schnalserthal to the
Pusseyerthal.
The easiest way from Unser Frau to
lloos, or St. Leonhard, in the Passeyer-
thal, is by the Pfossenthal and the
(wTuben Jock (9,54S') leading to the
head of the PfVIdersthal (Rte. D). It
is worth remarking that the ascent of
the Siinilaun might be taken in the way
from Unser Frau to the Pfossenthal, as
it is doubtless practicable to desceud
from that peak to Mitterkaser or Eishof,
in the latter valley. Ildefons Kohler,
of Rableid, in the Pfossenthal, is re-
commended as guide, and Pixner, inn-
keeper at Plan, can lead travellers from
the Pfeidersthal over theGruben Joch.
The complete tour of the Oetzthal
peaks, here suggested, will include six
passes with an average height of very
nearly 10,OUO It.
SECTION 49.
STUBAY DISTRICT.
The Brenner pass, as has been re-
marked in the introduction to this
chapter, divides the main chain of the
Tyrol Alps into two imequal portions,
of which the western division includes
the two irregular groups of the Oetz-
thal and Stubay Alps, while the eastern
division is traversed by a nearly con-
tinuous range extending from near Ster-
zing to the frontiers of Styria. The line
of valley followed by the road from
Innsbruck to Brixen is thus, in an
orographic sense, a boundary between
two well-marked di\'isions of the Alpine
chain. Of the western division the most
considerable portion has been described
inthelast section, and there remains only
a small but lofty group of high mountains,
commonly called the Stubay Alps, from
the name of the chief valley which pene-
trates deeply into their recesses. This
is to be described in the present section.
As the drainage of the Stubay valley,
and that of the other principal valleys
of this group, is borne to join the Inn
or the Eisack through the line of de-
pression traversed by the Brenner road,
the latter is also naturally to be described
in this place.
Although little visited by English
tourists, the Stubay Alps lie close to
one of the most frequented of alpine
highways. Without quitting the rail-
way carriage or the high road, the tra-
veller may gain a glimpse of several of
the higher peaks, but he can form no
adequate idea of their dimensions, nor
of the glaciers that enclose their inner
valleys. Enclosed between the Oetz-
thal, the Inn, the Brenner road, and
the Jaufen Pass, the Stubay group fiUs
an area of about 610 square miles. Its
highest summit, the Wilder Pfaff,
attains 11,512 ft., and at least thirty-
three peaks exceed 10,000 Vienna ft.
(10,371 Eug. ft.) in height. If spread
out uniformly over the whole area, these
Alps would attain the height of 7,164 ft.
over the sea-level.
The Stubay Alps have been thorouglily
explored by MM. Barth and Pxaundler,
who have carefully measured the heights
of nearly all the principal peaks, and
have published the results of their
labours, with a detailed map, in whicli
71 separate glaciers are laid down, in
a volume entitled ' Die Stubayer Ge-
birgsgruppe,' published at Innsbruck,
in 1865.
The best headquarters for the moun-
taineer in this district are at Neustift,
in the Stubaythal, and at Gschnitz, but
some fine scenery is accessible in a
day's walk from the inn at the summit
of the Brenner Pass or from the town
of Sterzing.
Besides the road of the Brenner and
the main group of the Stubay Alps, we
include in the present section the much
lower pastoral district of the Sarnthal,
lying between the Passeyerthal and the
Eisack, which may conveniently bo
visited by the pedestrian on the Tray
from Botzen to Sterzing.
168
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUBAY DLSTRICT.
Route A.
INNSBRUCK. TO BOTZEN, OVER THE
BREXNEU PASS, BY ROAD.
Austrian
Eng.
miles
miles
Schbnberg .
2
H
Steinach
. . u
7
Brenner .
. . n
H
Sfcerzin^
2
Oi
Mittewald .
2
H
Brixen .
2
H
Klausen
. . n
1
Atzwang
2
9*
Botzen .
2
9|
16S 79^
Eeference has been mafle in several
proceding portions of this work to the
groat breach in the continuity of the
chain of the Alps which is marked by
the valley of the Adige. Following up
the course of that river from the neigh-
bourhood of Verona, wliere it issues
from the mountains through the deep
and broad valley that extends in a
nearly straight line for more than 80 m.,
we reach the point, less than 900 ft. above
the sea, where the main river is formed
''•lose to Botzen, by the junction of the
Etsch, or upper Adige, with the Eisack.
The road leading by the Etschthal from
Lcindeck in the upper valley of the Inn
to Botzen was described in the last sec-
tion. The opening throusrh which that
road is carried from the banks of the
Inn to the lakes at the head of the
Adige has orographically the charac-
teristics of a true break or gap in the
Alpine chain, whereas that at the head
of the Eisack, which forms the Brenner
Pass, corresponds rather to a disloca-
tion in the range, similar to that form-
ing the passes of the Simplon and Ma-
loya. The Brenner is, however, lower
by a few feet than the pass leading to
Landeck, and it has from the earliest
times had far greater political impor-
tance, as this offers a very direct, and the
other only a circuitous, route from the
valley of the Danube to the plains of
Northern Italy. By this road the legions
of Drusus, passing beyond the natural
boundaries of the empire, established
the sway of the Roman Caesars over
the semibarbarons tribes of the Rhfeti
and the Alemanni, and by the same
passage the reflex flood of barbarian in-
vasion has ever since continued to inun-
date the pla.ins of Lombardy and Vene-
tia. It was but natural that this should
(in 1772) be the first Alpine pass
made practicable for carriages, and that
it should be destined to be the first
over whicli the locomotive draws its
load. As some travellers will continue
to use the post-road, and pedestrians
descending from the higher valleys may
traverse portions of it, it is here de-
scribed in the first place, and a notice
of the railway is added imder a separate
heading. The distances by post-road,
as given above, are doubtless somewhat
overrated.
After leaving the town of Innsbrisek,
by the arch erected in honour of Maria
Theresa, the road traverses the suburb
of Wiltcn. The abbey, famous during
the middle ages, stands on the site of
the Roman Veldidena, which was levelled
to the ground by Attila. On leaving
the village of "Wilten, the road turns
SW., and at once begins to ascend a
green hill, lying in the angle between
the Sill and the Inn. This is the JBercf
Isel, a spot famous in the popular
annals for three victories gained by the
Tyrolese peasantry under Hofer and
Speckbacher, against the French and
Bavarian forces, in 1809. After gaining
a very fine view of Innsbruck and its
neighbourhood, the road turns south-
ward, and enters the valley of the Sill, or
Unter-Wippthal. The old road was in
places steep, and not quite safe, but the
new road, laid out by Italian engineers,
maintains a very gentle inclination
throughout the ascent of about 2,700 ft.
to the summit of the pass. In com-
mencing the ascent along the 1. bank
of the Sill, the only prominent object is
the peak of the Series or Waldraster-
spitz (8,898'), rising boldly somewhat
W. of S. Before long, the road crosses
the impetuous torrent of the Rutzbach,
issuing from the Stubaythal (Rte. E),
by a single arch of wide span. Just
beyond the bridge is the hamlet of
ROUTE A. — VALLEY OF THE SILL.
169
Vnter-Schbnbcrg (2,243'). This stands
lit the N. end of a high promontory
between the Sill and the Eutzbach,
which is crowned by the little village of
Ober-Schonberg (3,271'), commanding
a very fine view of Innsbruck and the
neighbouring Innthal, and the moun-
tains that guard it on the N., and, on
the other hand, of the Stubaythal and
the peaks and glaoiers that enclose it to
the SW. The new road, with much
advantage to the post-horses, but to
the loss of tourists, w^nds along the
slopes above the Sill on the E. side of
the promontory, avoiding the village.
Tlie pedestrian is strongly advised to
keep to the old road, and those who
travel by hired carriages can follow the '
same course, leaving their vehicles near
the bridge over the Eutzbach, and re-
joining them an hour later, about ^ m. i
S. of Ober-Schonberg.
The new road, although it loses all :
view of the Stubaythal, is not altogether ;
devoid of objects of interest.
On the opposite side of the Sill rise :
tlie Giuvgctzcr (8,781') and the Kreuz-
joch (9,141'), two summits commanding
very fine panoramic views. Between
them is a pass leading to Volders, in ,
the lower Innthal (§ 43, Ete. B). Nearly ;
2 leagues beyond Schonberg is the j
thriving village of |
Matrey {Inns: Stern; Krone; "Weisse '
Rose), the chief place in the valley of i
the Sill, 3,391 ft. above the sea. The
castle, belonging to Prince Auersberg, |
is picturesquely placed. Here the high
road is joined by a char-road from Hall
with a solitary church standing on a
rock midway in the glen. Passes con-
nect its head with the Tuxerthal (§ 50,
Ete. D), the "Wattenserthal, leading to
the lower Innthal, and the Schmirnthal."
About 3 m. from Matrey the road
reaches
Stcinach (Inns : Post, good ; Stein-
bock), a post-station, 3,651 ft, above
the sea, rebuilt since 1853, when the
chui'ch and most of the houses were
burned down. Here the Gschnitzthal
opens to WSW. (Ete. O), and the tra-
veller gains a glimpse of the Habicht-
spitz. A little way beyond the village
the road passes for the first time to the
rt. bank of the Sill, and just beyond
Stafflach (Inn : Hirsch, food very good,
not cheap) crosses a considerable torrent
formed about 1 m. E. of that village by
the junction of the streams from two
Alpine glens. That seen to ESE. is
the Falscrthal, also written YalserthaJ,
but not to be confounded with the Swiss
valley of that name. The other branch
is the Schmirnthal. The path through
it leads to the village and church of
Schmiryi (4,542'), andfarther on to Obtrn
(5,065'), 3| hrs. from StafBach. Two
paths, one over the Ti'.xer Joch (j ,&\^'),
the other by the Schncebruckkopf, lead
to Lanersbach in the Tuxerthal. (See
§ 50, Ete. C.) Beyond Stafflach the
high-road crosses and re-crosses more
than once the Sill, here reduced to
a mere mountain stream, and passes
the little village of Grics (3,890'), with
a very fair country inn. Here opens to
SW. an extreme'y picturesque little
which is carried along the rt. side of 1 Alpine glen called Oberhcrg, which is
the valley, and shortens the way to the
Brenner Pass for those approaching it
from the Lower Innthal who have no
occasion to pass through Innsbruck.
This road leaves the Innthal near the mount thence nearly
Ciistle of Amras, and passes several
villages and hamlets. From Miihlthal
or Ellbogen the traveller may ascend
the Olungetzer, or traverse the Eosen
Joch to the Voldererthal. For a notice of
also the name of the village at its head,
1|- hr. from Gries, and 4,440 ft. above
the sea. The traveller, who there finds
very tolerable night-quarters, may
due W. to the
MvAtenjoch (8,133'), leading to
Gschnitz, or may reach Anichen, in the
Pflerschthal (Ete. G) in 4i hrs. hy the
Grubjoch (7,021'), or else may return
to the high-road at Gossensass above
the pretty walk to Neustift, see Ete. E. Sterzing (see below) by a pass (7,052')
A little above Matrey the road passes i between the Eothspitz and Lorenzen-
opposite to the opening of the Navisthal, | berg.
170
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STLTJAY DISTRICT.
Above Grries the road for the last
time passes to the rt. bank of the Sill,
and soon readies the little lake, Bren-
ti.fr See (4,303'), that is counted as its
cliief source. The lake is fed by two tor-
rents — the Vennabach, flowing through
a lateral glen on the E. side from the
]>ase of the Kraxentrcg (9,831'), and the
stream descending from the Brenner
Pa>s, which preserves the name of Sill.
A gentle ascent leads to the depression
forming the watershed between the
Danube and the Adige, where stands the {
Brenner Posthcmse (fair accommoda-
tion, not cheap for T-\to1), 4-, 588 ft. above i
the level of the Adriatic. It commands |
no distant view. The streamlet seen I
to form a little waterfall on the rt. of j
the road behind the posthouse is the
principal source of the FAsnck, which is
henceforth followed to its junction with
the Adige at Eotzen. For more than a
mile the road is nearly level, till, after
passing the Brennerhad, a small esta-
blishment beside a warm mineral spring,
it begins to descend rather rapidly to
SSW., crossing and re-crossing several
times the narrow stream of the Eisack,
which here runs through a narrow but
not Yevy picturesque glen. [From the
Brennerbad a path is carried SE. over j
the Schliisseljoch to Kematen, in tlie I
Plitschthal, whence the Zillerthal is I
reached by the Pfitscherjoch.] The i
valley of the Eisack opens a little at |
Gossnuass (3,520'), where it is joined j
by the Pfierschthal from WNW. As I
throughout the entire route, ruined
Ciistles crown the heights on either side
of the road. Below the village the val-
ley narrows for a short distance, but
widens gradually as it approaches
Sterzivg (Inns : Post ; Krone ; both
good and clean), the principal place in
the upper valley of the Eisack. This
is locally called Ober-Wipptka/, the Sill
valley, through which the traveller
ascended from Innsbruck to the Brenner,
receiving the name Unter-Wippthal.
Though the position of Sterzing is not
very picturesque, it affords convenient
lieail-qua'-ters for mountain excursions.
The little town, 3,094 feet above the
sea, stands close to the junction of the
Pfitschthal, through which lies a highly
interesting route to the Zillerthal (§ 50,
Pte. B), while on the opposite side the
Gailbach bears down the drainage from
the Eidnaunthal and the Ratschingesthal.
Occupying the site of the Roman sta-
tion Vipitenum (Pfitsch ?), Sterzing
long derived wealth and importance
from the silver mines worked in the
neighbouring valley of Ridnaun. The
modern name is probably derived from
the Sesterces coined here. For some
miles below the town extends the
marshy flat called Sterzinger Moos, the
filled-up bed of an ancient aake. Here
the Eisack, which had hitherto kept a
course somewhat W. of S., turns to SE.,
and at the lower end of the Moos, near
Mauls (good country-inn, beim Nagele)
enters a defile extending to the post-
station (2,611 ft. above the sea) at
Mittewcild (Inn : Po^t, good, but rather
dear). The valley between this and
Sterzing is famous in Tyrolese annals
for the heroic exploits of her sons. Here
the Elector of Bavaria was driven back
with heavy loss in 1703 ; and the French
under Joubert retreated in 1797. More
memorable still was the campaign of
1809. Marshal Lefevre had despatched
from Innsbruck a force of Bavarian and
Saxon troops to force their way over the
Brenner, and effect a junction with the
larger French army, which was ad-
vancing from Carinthia through the
Pusterthal. When the allied troops had
been driven back with heavy loss, the
Saxons being all killed or taken pri-
soners, the French general advanced in
person with a larger force, chiefly French.
Met in front by the Capuchin Has-
pinger, and attacked on both flanks by
Speckbacher and Hofer, his men were
thrown into utter confusion, and a hur-
ried retreat to Innsbruck, with the loss
of cannon and ammunition, was the
invader's only resource.
Several passes lead from this part of
the valley. The most frequented is the
Pfvser Joch (7,340'), by which the pe-
destrian may reai-h Eotzen from Mauls,
or from Stilfs, on the opposite side of the
ROUTE A. BRIXEN.
171
main valley, through the Samthal. The |
pass is ou this side called Stilfser Joch,
from the above-named village, but the
name is inconvenient, as it is theTyrolese
name for the far better known pass of
the Steh-io.
The opening of the defile of the
Eisuck into the broad valley above
Brixen is guarded by the strong fortress
oi FranzensJ'este (2,418'), mounting 137
guns, and commanding the road into
Carinthia by Brunecken as well as the
pass into Northern Tyrol. The road
passes through the outworks of the
fortress, and immediately after reaches
Untcrau, where there is a good country-
inn. While the main road descends
the slopes above the rt. bank of the
Eisack to Brixen, another crosses that
stream by the Ladritscher Briioke, and
is carried somewhat X. of E. to Miihl-
bach on the Eienz, there joining the
main line from Brixen to Villach in
Carinthia. From this point the traveller
overlooks the junction of the Eisack
with the more considerable stream of
the Rienz, which, having flowed nearly
due W. as far as jMuhlbach, there turns
a,bruptly to the S., and merges its name
in that of the lesser stream. On the
tongue of land dividing the streams
above the junction stands the wealthy
monastery of Neustift. The vegetation
assumes a southern character, and the
traveller from the N. greets the chestnut,
which here begins to predominate over
other deciduous trees. Passing the open-
ing of the Schalderei-thal, which, leads by
some mineral baths of local repute and
the Schalderer Jock to Diirnholz, in the
Sarnthal, the high-road runs due S. to
Brixen (Inns : Elephant, ill-managed
and dirty, in 1865; Sonne, second-class,
cheap ; Goldenes Kreuz). This ancient
and dull place, 1,934 ft. above the sea-
level, claims the rank of a city, be-
ing the see of a bishop who for m-.ny
centuries ruled a temporal principality.
His palace or castle is conspicuous at
the SW. end of the town. The cathe-
dral is modern, but the cloisters are
ancient and curious. Constant inter-
course with Italy has given a some-
what Italian character to the town, which
in the language of the South is called.
Bressanone.
A new line of railway from hence to
Villach, connecting the S. Tyrol with
Styria, and with Trieste, is already
commenced. Meantime a diligence goes
daily from Brixen to Villach (§ 52,
Rte. A), in 26 i hrs., and a Stellwagen
rtms as far as Bruneck. From hence
to Botzen the scenery is far more pictur-
esque than throughout the way from
Innsbruck. A few miles below Brixen
the valley of the Eisack is narrowed to a
defile, which extends in a SSW. direc-
tion most of the way to Botzen, the road
being carried along the rt. bank of the
river. The vegetation, assimiing a
more and more southern character, adds
much to the beauty of the scenery, and
at intervals the singular forms of the
dolomite peaks seen through the glens
that open on the E. side of the valley
aiford a striking contrast to the mas-
sive porphyritic rocks that rise on either
hand. After passing on the rt. hand
the pretty waterfall called Schrambach-
fall, the road reaches the first post-
station at
Klausen (Inns : Gans ; Eossel). The
defile of the Eisack is here extremely
confined, barely leaving room for a
narrow street. Opposite the village
opens the Villnbsihal (§ 60, Rte. G),"^a
valley interesting to geologists. Its lower
end is enclosed by mountains formed of
hornblende rock and porphyry, but at
its head it is separated from the Grod-
nerthal to the S., and the Gaderthal to
the E., by a range formed of sandstone
and dolomite. On a projecting rock
above Elausen stands the convent of
Seben, commanding a remarkable view.
It is said to occupy the site of a Rha&tian
stronghold, afterwards occupied by the
Romans, who erected on the spot a
temple to Isis. A monumental crucifix
commemorates the fate of a nun who in
1809 sprang from a window overlooking
the precipice to avoid the violence of the
French soldiery. The road from Klausen
to Botzen is locally called Kuntersweg,
after Heinrich Kunter, a private citizen
172
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
40, STUBAY DISTRICT.
of Botzen, who constructed the first road
through the defile of the Eisack early in
the 1-lth century. Before that time the
communication between Brixen and
Botzen was carried on by circuitous paths
over the mountains on either side. At
Kollmann {1,716') the torrent from the
Grodnerthal joins the Adige, and the
Trosthurg, one of the numerous castles
belonging to Couu*} "Wolkenstein, stands
in a commanding position at the entrance
to that very picturesque valley. There
is here a tolerable country-inn (Kreuz).
A path to Castelruth and the Seisser Alp
diverges from the main valley at Koll-
mann, and another rather steeper track
mounts thither from Torkele, an inn by
the roadside, about ^ hi', lower down.
The road descends, though not steeply,
all the way from Kollmann to the post-
station at
Atzwang (Inn : Post), 1,452 ft. above
the sea. Here the pedestrian may ascend
through the glen of the Finsterbach to
the 'earth pyramids' near Lengmoos,
and descend thence to Botzen by Klo-
benstein and Oberbotzen (see below),
the tour requiring about 5 hrs., exclu-
sive of halts. The finest part of the
defile of the Eisack is between Atzwang
and Karneid. The dark red porphyry
rocks rise very steeply on either side of
the river, which follows a sinuous course
through the deep cleft. Here the rail-
way engineers have encountered the chief
difficulties in the construction of the line
between Botzen and Innsbruck, and
have had to tunnel through several pro-
jecting corners of rock. Hard as it is,
the porphyry rock is rapidly disinte-
grated by the weather, and masses have
from time to time fallen on the road.
At one point below Atzwang a consider-
able Bergfall occurred in 18-io, and huge
fallen blocks still lie on either side of
the roadway. At St eg a frequented track
crosses the river, and mounts to Vols
and Seiss (§ 60, Kte. C). Here the pin-
nacles of the Schleren are seen from the
road towering above the nearer slopes.
The road for the first time crosses to the
1. bank at Blumau, arnd the valley turns
due W. at the junction of the Gannen-
bach, which here issues from the ravine
leading to Tiers. Of the numerous cas-
tles that crown the neighbouring heights,
mostly out of sight of the road, the most
considerable is that of Karneid, still
inhabited, which guards the entrance to
the Karneidthal. The wonderful scenery
of the road loading that way to Welschen-
ofen is noticed in § 60, Rte. D. On re-
crossing to the rt. bank of the Eisack at
Kardaun, the road emerges from the
defile through which it has been carried
for fully 15 m. The gentler slopes on
the N. side of the valley are covered
with vineyards, producing the excellent
wine of Botzen, while on the opposite
side noble chestnut-trees descend to the
level of the valley. The grey foliage of
the olive, which here reaches its northern
limit, the shrill note of the cicala, and
the intense heat which commonly pre-
vails here in summer, still farther com-
pletes the southern character of the
scene as the traveller enters the ancient
town of
Botzen (Inns : Kaiserkrone, a large
handsome house, with a cafe on the
ground floor, charges not unreasonable;
of less pretensions are the following —
Mondschein, or Mezza Luna ; Schwarzer
Adler ; Goldener Hirsch). The eastern
windows of the two hotels first named
command a \'iew of the dolomite peaks
of the Eosengarten. Standing only 859
ft. above the sea, close to the head of the
main valley of the Adige, and sheltered
from the N. wind by steep mountains,
this place enjoys a milder winter climate
than the plain of Northei'n Italy, and
though the spring is more backward, the
summer heat is intense ; the thermo-
meter in the shade often ranging from
90<^ to 95'^ Fahr. On this account the
citizens retire in summer either to the
little country-inns or mineral baths in
the surrounding mountain valleys, or
else to small country-houses {Sommer-
frischhduser) on the adjoining plateau
of the Eitten. Though the German ele-
ment predominates, a large portion of
the population is Italian, and that lan-
guage is spoken in many of the shops.
The Italian name of the town is Bolzano.
PANORAMA Fao:M the RITTNEE HORN
^
ROUTE A. BOTZEN.
173
It stands at the junction of the Talfer
torrent, issuing from the Sarnthal (Ete.
3v), with the Eisack. A massive dam is
constructed to resist the inundations of
the Talfer, which has often borue de-
struction into the town, and another
dyke, carried alon2 the Eisack, protects
the railway and the lower part of the
town from its floods. The architecture
and general appearance partakes some-
what of the.styles of Germany and Italy,
which may be said to meet here. The
principal houses have singular projec-
tions from the roof (Dachhauben) in-
tended to admit air into the iipper part,
and protect them from the summer heat.
Streams of water are conducted through
most of the streets. The principal
church, built of red sandstone, offers a
combination of the German Gothic and
Lombard styles, and is worth a visit.
The gardens of Count Sarnthein and
Herr JNIoser will interest the traveller
from the north of the Alps, unused to
such luxuriant growth of the fig, vine,
pomegranate, and oleander. Oranges
and lemons are common here, but the
trees require protection in winter. The
neighbourhood of Botzen is of extreme
interest to the botanist, and may be said
to embrace three distinct floras, including
within a space less than half of an
English county no less than 1,720 flower-
ing plants. The flora of the main valley
of the Adige includes many curious
paludose species ; e.g., Ahhovanda vesi-
culosa, Alisyna pariiassifolium, Sturmia
Laeselii, Cyperus glomerulus, and C.
Monti. That of the lower mountains,
chiefly composed of porphyry and sand-
stone, is further noticed in connexion
with the ascent of the Kitten (see below),
and that of the dolomite region (inclu-
ding the Seisser Alp) is described in § 60.
An agreeable view of Botzen and the
neighbourhood is gained from the Cal-
varienberg, on the 1. bank of the Eisack.
The coloured groups in carved wood or
stucco, intended to represent the events
of the Passion, appear grotesque to the
northern eye. To see the dolomite range
of the Eosengarten to advantage, the
traveller should go as far as the Talfer-
briicke, at the W. end of the town. An
excursion of some interest is that to the
castle of Sigmundskmn, standing on a
projecting rock on the W. side of the
; Adige, about 3 m. from Botzen. But a
\ single tower, used as a powder magazine,
j now remains of an extensive pile that
j once cro-mied this point. It commands
j a very fine view of the dolomite range.
I The most interesting excursions from
i Botzen are undoubtedly those that lead
: the traveller into the heart of the
grand and beautiful scenery of the dolo-
mite Alps desci-ibed in § 60, but the
ascent of the Rittmrhorn is an expedi-
tion which has lately become popular for
the sake of the very fine panoramic view
gained from the summit, and the singular
eaath-pyramids seen on the way. The
excursion may be taken on the way
from Botzen to Sterzing through the
Sarnthal (Ete. K); or may be combined
I with a visit to the Seisser Alp, or the
Grodnerthal, by descending from the
Kitten into the valley of the Eisack at
Atzwang or Kollmann. The way is by
a country-road, or a path leading to
the village of Oherbotzen (4,1-43'), lying
at the S\V. end of the rather exten-
sive tract between the Talfer and the
Eisack which is collectively known as
] the Bitten. It may be described as a
broken and irregular plateau, rising
gradually from S. to N., and culminating
in the Eittnerhorn. It is the chief re-
fuge of the citizens of Botzen in the hot
season, and a stranger is struck by the
amoimt of substantial comfort implied
in the fact that so small a town should
furnish owners to the large number of
separate dwellings scattered over this
I tract. Many of these are grouped about
: Oberbotzen, but the chief centre of the
j Sommerfrisch life is found at Klohen-
i stein (3,955'), reached by turning east-
' ward from the road to the Sarnthal.
I This is quite a gay residence during the
! hot season, and numerous pic-nic parties
are often to be met on the adjoining
; slopes, or at some point commanding a
; fine view. There is here a good country-
; iun, and it affords a convenient centre
i for several agreeable walks. The chief
174
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 49.
objects of interest for strangers are the
earth-pyramids. Having traversed the
villaijeof Levgmoos, the traveller follows
a path leading NW. to the glen of the
Finstorbach which descends from the
plateau of the Hitten towards the defile
of the Eisack. There is here a vast
accumulation of friable clay formed by
the decomposition of the porphyry rock,
and the action of the weather and the
surface drainage have cut deep trenches
in the soil, which have intersected each
other in such a way as to leave standing
a iarge number of columns or obelisks,
each capped by a large stone, or, more
commonly, by a tree. Whenever one of
these obelisks loses this covering, the
weather exerts its action, and it soon
crumbles away.
The ascent of the Riftnerhnrn (8,0'64')
is very easily made from Klobenstein,
and there seems to be no reason why
ladies should not ride nearly to the top.
The annexed plate will give some idea
of the extent of the panorama visible
from the summit.
The flora of the Ritten is very rich.
It has been carefully studied by Tyro-
lese botanists, especially by Baron
Hausmaun, a resident in Botzen, and
the author of an excellent Flora of
Tyrol. One of the most interesting
habitats is a shallow pool called Wo[fs-
grubersec, on whose margin has been
found the very rare and curious little
grass — Cohanthus subtilis, besides Li-
mosella aquatica, Centuncuhis minimus,
&e. In the lower part of the ascent
from Botzen are seen Onosma stellvJa-
tum, Avcna rapiU.aris, Panicum undula-
tifolium, NothochlcBna marantce, and
other uncommon plants. Among the
species interesting to the northern bo-
tanist in the neighbourhood of Botzen
is Colutea arborescens, common on warm
slopes. It is often infested with the
parsisitic Cuscuta planiflora.
STUBAY DISTRICT.
Route B.
I INNSBRUCK TO BOTZEN, OVER THE BHEN'
I NEE PASS, BY RAILWAY.
Stations
Kilometres
Eng. miles
Pat=ch .
. SJ
H
Matrei .
. 9i
H
Steinach .
• 4|
3
Gries
. H
6
Brermer .
• ^'i
3
Schelleberg
. 8
5
Go>.-enpa3s
. fii
5
StPrzing ,
• 5^
3
Freienfeld
. 5
3
Grasstein
• ^2
4
Franzensfeste
4
Brixen .
: loj
Klaiisen .
. 10
6
3
"Waidbruck
• 5|
Atzwang
. 8
5
Blumau .
. 6i
4
Botzen .
. vf
4J
126 79
The opening of the first line of railway
across the main chain of the Alps was
an event the importance of which has
scarcely, as yet, been duly felt, either
by the European public or by the rail-
way directors themselves. On the com-
pletion of this essential link in the chain
of communication between the North and
the South of Europe, it might have been
expected that requisite arrangements
would have been made to satisfy the
general demand for rapid communication
between the North and South, and that
by the widest publicity travellers would
have been invited to profit by the new
facilities thus provided. Instead of
this, the really important event of the
opening for traffic of the railway over
the Brenner took place on the 24th Aug.,
1867, with scarcely a passing notice in
the public papers. The arrangements
for passengers from England, France,
and North Germany, who all arrive via
Munich, are still imperfect, and though
there is now daily a direct train, with
but one change of carriage for first-
class pa .«engers, from Cologne to
Verona in 32 hrs., much time is lost
by the way. The construction of the
line, favoured no doubt by the nature of
the ground, which offers less difficulties
than anj mountain railway has hitherto
ROUTE C. SELRAIN.
175
encountered, reflects great credit on all
concerned. The skill of the engineers
"was exercised in avoiding— rather than
in devising — gigantic works. The tun-
nels are 17 in number, and their col-
lective length not quite 3 miles ; and
between Innsbruck and Botzen the line
has been carried over only 11 bridges.
Those familiar with the scandalous job-
bery and wasteful extravagance of Eng-
lish railway management will learn witli
surprise that this first railway across
the Alps was completed for less than
2y millions sterling, or at the rate of
about 28,000/. a mile.
The chief difhculty encountered in
laying out the line arose from the steep-
ness of the ascent from Gossensass,
above Sterzing,to the summit of the pass.
Fortunately the former village stands
at the opening of the Pflerschthal, a glen
whose floor mounts to the westward for
some miles with a very moderate slope.
Near the village of Ast, about 2^ m. from
G-ossensass, the railway enters a tunnel
very nearly ^ m. long, in which it de-
scribes a curve not much less than a
semicircle. The traveller who enters
the tunnel in the bottom of the valley
travelling eastward is astonished to find,
on issuing from it, that he is moving in
the opposite direction, and already at
gome height, above the stream ; and, on
returning to the valley of the Eisack,
within a few hundred yards of the point
where he left it, he finds that he has
gained an elevation of about oOO feet.
In a similar manner the steepness of
the slope of the Sill valley, between
Steinach and Gries, is much reduced by
a lateral deviation at Stafflach. where
the road enters the opening of the Eal-
serthal, and returns to the Sill at a
higher level.
The traveller should endeavour to
place himself on the rt. hand side of the
carriage in going from Innsbruck to Bot-
zen, and on the 1. hand when proceeding
from Botzen to Innsbruck. Very little,
however, is seen of the remarkable en-
gineering works connected with the line.
Besides the tunnel in the Pflerschthal,
already mentioned, the most remarkable
works are near Matrei, where the former
bed of the Sill has been made use of for
the passage of the railway, while the
torrent has been turned aside through a
tunnel, from which it issues lower down
in a pretty waterfall, and near Gos-
sensass, where another tunnel has been
constructed to serve as a channel for the
waters of the Eisack.
Negotiations are said to be pending
between the railway companies con-
cerned for an express train from Ostend
to Brindisi, via Cologne, Munich, the
Brenner, and Verona, by which passen-
gers for and from the East may travel
without change of carriage, and without
needless delay.
EorTE C.
INNSBRUCK TO IMST, OR OETZ, BY THE
SELEAINERTHAL.
The pedestrian going from Innsbruck
to the Oetzthal, or to the upper valley of
the Inn, may take a course little longer
than the high-road, and avoid heat and
dust, by following the Selrainerthal,
which runs nearly parallel to the Inn,
and is connected by a low pass with the
lower end of the Oetzthal. The scenery
is extremely pleasing, and from several
points fine ^iews are obtained of the
snowy peaks of the Stubay Alps.
Starting from Innsbruck, the traveller
may choose between the country-road
running along the S. side of the Inn,
from Wilten to Vols, and thence
mounting to Ober-Perfus, or take a
rougher track, that turns westward from
the Brenner road about 2 m. above
Wilten, and traverses the villages of
Natters, Gbtzens (2,837'), and Axains.
Either of these courses leads in about
3 hrs. from Innsbruck to Selrain
(2,958'), the chief place in the valley to
which it gives its name. It stands on
the rt. bank of the torrent which, having
flowed eastward to this point, now
turns to NE., and soon joins the Inn a
little below Zirl, which is reached from
hence in 1^ hr. The village is locally
called Rothenbrunn, from the red coloiu
of the water of a mineral spring near at
176
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUEAT DISTRICT.
hand. The arrangements for water-
drinkers are on a poor scale, but there
is a tolerable inn often visited in sum-
mer by parties from Innsbruck. Avery
steep path climbs the hill N. of Selrain.
to the ancient church of St. Quirinus,
commanding a fine view of the Stubay
Alps. S. of the village is the opening
of an uninhabited glen called Fatscher-
thal, which leads up to the base of the
Hoke nil fr spitz (10,141'). It is pro-
bably not difficult to reach Neustift in
the Stubaythal by traversing the ridge
connecting that summit with the Eoih
Wandspitz (9,218').
About 1^ hr. above Selrain is Gries
(3,824') (svith a small inn), the chief
place in the upper Selrain erthal, at the
E. base of the Freihut (8,581'), a coni-
cal peak, bright with green pastures
that stands in the fork of the valley.
The summit commands a fine view
of the Stubay Alps. The southern
branch, called Lisenzerthal, is described
in the next Rte. The western branch,
or Oberthal, opens on the N. side of the
Freilitit. The path ascends somewhat
N. of "W. on the 1. bank of the torrent
to St. Sigismund (4,924'), about 1^ hr.
above Gries. There is here a poor inn.
The hamlet stands at the junction of
the Gleirscherthal with the main valley.
See next Rte. At Haggen (5,279'), 'a
group of houses ^ hr. above St. Sigis-
mund, another wild glen, the Kras-
pesthal, sends a torrent northward from
the Kraspesferner to join the stream.
An easy ascent of about If hr. leads
from Haggen to the nameless pass that
forms the western extremit}' of the Sel-
rainerthal. [On the way another path
mounts NE. to the much hiarher rido-e
connecting the Scharfl grspiiz (9,3-30')
with the Kreuzjoch (8,773'). On the X.
side it descends into the head of the
Kanzthal, and, passing by the eastern
base of the HochefUrspitz (9,152'),
enters the valley of tlie Inn at Flauer-
ling, about 1 hr. E. of Telfs.]
The track from Selrain to Oetz soon
reaches a larcre herdsman's chalet called
Kiihthei (6,352'), only a few feet below
the summit of the pass. Eefreshment,
and night-quarters in case of need, may
be found here, and the neighbouring
scenery has attractions for the moun-
taineer. On the N. side the Birkkopl
(9,281') oiFers a noble view, which con;-
bines the Oetzthal and Stubay Alps,
with the ZuGTspitz and the other high
limestone peaks N. of the Innthal. On
the S. side the traveller should not fail
to visit a short glen, called Finstcrthal,
whose torrent issues from the Kilh-
theier Seen, two lakes, the lower and
larger of which is 7,421 ft. above th«
sea. They lie in the centre of an
amphitheatre of peaks that approach to,
but do not quite attain, 10,000 ft. in
height, and are fed by three small
hanging glaciers. The torrents that
unite below Kiihthei descend to the
Oetzthal through the Stuibenthal. In
2 hrs. the path, which keeps all the
way to the rt. bank of the Stuibenbach,
reaches
Ochsdigarten (5,170'), the only vil-
lage in this very poor glen, whose in-
habitants suffer at times severely from
t}'phus fever. There is no inn, but the
priest supplies refreshment, and has
three beds available for travellers. A
path crossing the ridge to the N. leads
from hence to Sils. The Stuibenbach,
on entering the Oetzthal about 2 m.
from its junction with the Inn, forms
the picturesque waterfall that is ad-
mired by travellers going from Sils to
Oetz (§ 48, Ete. B) ; but the shortest
way to the latter village avoids the
waterfall by crossing the torrent some
way higher up, and follows a track that
winds southward round the shoulder of
the mountain. Taking that course, the
tra.veller in 2 hrs. from Ochsengarten
descends to Oetz. If bound for Imst^
his shortest way is to follow the path
from Ochsengarten to Sils, and there
hire a vehicle ; but if he would avoid
the dusty hiffh-road, he may take the
road from Oetz to Roppen, noticed in
§ 48, Rte. B. An active walker will not
employ more than Ih hrs., exclusive of
halts, on the way from Selrain to Oetz.
which is thus reached in a long day
from Innsbruck.
ROUTE D. GKIES JOCH.
177
Route D.
seleain to lexgexfeld in the
oetzthat,.
A more direct, but more arduo\is,
course from Innsbruck to the upper part
of the Oetzthal than that pointed out in
the hist Ete., is found by turning aside
from the main path of the Seh-ainerthal i
through one or other of the lateral val-
leys that descend from the higher peaks
of the Stubay Alps.
1. By the Gries Joch. 9 hrs. The
most direct and probably the most
interesting way from Sebain to Lengen-
feld is through the LisenzerthaJ, which
joins the main branch of the Selrainer-
thal at Grries (see last Rte,). A constant
and rather steep ascent commences near
the latter village. The path lies at first
on the 1. bank of the Mclach torrent
(whence this lateral glen is sometimes
called Melachthal), but crosses to the
opposite bank, and after passing Kniepes
(5,102'), a cluster of Huttcn near a
fine waterfall, attains the upper level
of the Lisenzerthal, a broad reach of
Alpine pasture, backed by a range of
high summits, of which the most promi-
nent is the Fernerkogl (10,704'). This
shows on the N. side as a pyramidal
peak of dark rock merely capped with
snow ; but on the S. and E. sides its
flanks are laden with an extensive
glacier, the Lisenzerferner. In the
middle of the upper valley is the Lisen-
eer Alp (2 hrs. from Gries). Here the
traveller finds a large and substan-
tial buildinar, which serves not only for
ordinary dairy purposes, but is used as
a retreat in hot weather by the canons
of Wilten. "When not thus occupied,
the mountaineer here finds good night-
quarters. The ascent of the Fernerkogl,
which has been effected a few times
from this side, passes for a ditficult and
even dangerous expedition, owing to the
sharpness of the ice-arete leading to the
summit, which sometimes forms an over-
hanging cornice. [A very rough path to
the Stubaythal crosses the range SSE.
of the Lisenzer Alp by the Lisinzcr Joch
(9,211')— also called Horn Joch (?). The
pass lies between the Horuspitz (9,605')
to SW. and the Hohe ViUerapitz [^ 1 0, 141').
The ascent lies at last up a pathless
slope covered with huge boulders,requir-
ing some activity and caution. On the
opposite side the descent is less trouble-
some, though steep, to the Alp of Oberiss
in the Alpeiner branch of the Stubay-
thal. This way is sometimes taken as
a detour from the ordinary route from
Innsbruck to the Brenner by travellers
who wish in two or three days to form
some acquaintijnce with the valleys of
the Stubay Alps. The ascent of the
Hohe Villerspitz may (?) be combined
with the passage of the Lisenzer Joch.]
About ^ hr. above the Lisenzer Alp
the Melach torrent at the foot of the
Fernerkogl is joined by a stream flowing
eastward out of a deep recess in the
mountains locally called Langenthal.
By that way lies the track to Lengen-
feld in the Oetzthal. Passing the
Langenthaler Alp (6,507'). the path
mounts due W., by the N. side of a
small glacier lying on the NE. flank of
the Seberkogl (10,709'). Keeping close
under the double summit of the Gries-
Jcogl, of which the higher rises on the
rt. hand to 10,638 ft., the traveller
reaches in 5 hrs. the summit of the
Gries Joch (8,652'). From the pass
the way at first lies W, under rocks
that bound on the N. side the ice-
stream of the Grieaferner, which
descends towards the Sulzthal. On
reaching the lower end of the glacier
the way turns S. towards a small tarn
that sends a stream in successive
cascades to the Sulzthal. On its rt
bank a path descends rather steeply to
Gries (5,121'), the only village in the
Sulzthal, in about 3 hrs. from the pass.
A beaten track leads trom thence along
I the Fischbacii torrent to Lengenfeld in
the Oetzthal (see next Rte.).
2. By the Gleirscher Jbchl. 9 hrs.
to Umhausen, 10^ hrs. to Lengenfeld.
This is the shortest way from Selrain
to Umhausen, but a rather longer route
to Lengenfeld and the upper Oetzthal
than that jusL described. As mentioned
178
CENTHAL TVIIOL ALPS. S 49. STUBAT DISTRICT.
in ihe last Rte., the torrent from the
Gleirscherthal joins the main stream of
the Sflraiuerthal ac St. Sigisuiuucl, the
high..-st viUage in the latter valley. A
track mounts thence along the rt. bank
of the toiTent through the wild glen ot
the Gleirscherthal, nut to be confounded
with the Gleirschthal (§4.3, Ete. G),
from whence flows one of the sources
of the Isar. After ascending for about
2 hrs., the traveller sees before him
to the S. the head of the glen, enclosed
by a range of snowy peaks considerably
exceeding 10,000 ft. in height, while a
tributary toi-rent flows out of a recess I
on the W. side of the valley. Taming!
nearly due W., a rough track mounts
on the S. side of this stream to the
Gleirscher Jochl (9,214'). On the W.
side this overlooks the Zwicselthal, a
short glen through which a torrent from
a comparatively large glacier flows
northward, till it meets nearly at the
same point three other toiTents, whose
united streams descend WSW. towards
the Oetzthal through the Hairlachthal.
A path running along the rt. bank of
the torrent through the Zwieselthal, but
keeping to the 1, bank in the Hairlach-
thal, leads to the village of Kiederthei
(4,791'), standing near the point where]
the latter glen opens into the Oetzthal.
From thence the traveller may descend i
in about 1 hr. to Umhs
passmg
close to the Stuiben waterfall, men-
tioned in § 48, Rte. B. If bound for
Lengenfeld, he may avoid the waterfall,
and take a nearly direct path that leads
from Niederthei to Au.
EOTTTE E.
INNSBKUCK TO LENGENFELD BT THE
STUBAYTHAL. ASCENT OF THE SCHEAN-
KOGL.
The Stubay Alps derive their name
from that of the main valley wliich pene-
trates most deeply into the central mass,
and round whose head arise most of the
highest summits of the group. The
Stubaythal is thei'efore the headquarters
to which the mountaineer wishing to
explore this group naturally resorts ;
and as it is connected by high glacier-
passes with the adjoining valleys to the
S. and W., there is a considerable choice
of interesting excursions. The beet
guides are Pancraz GleiDser,of Fulpmes,
and Urbas Loisl, of Neustift.
However irregular may appear at first
sight the disposition of the chief masses
constituting the Stubay Alps, the paral-
lelism of most of the chief ridges and
corresponding valleys points to the ac-
tion of mechanical causes acting on an
extensive scale. Sinking minor irregu-
larities, the main ridges run from SW.
to NE., or at right angles to that direc-
tion. If we fix our attention on the
Wilder Pfaff, the highest of the group,
we fiLud one high ridge, scarcely any-
where subsiding to the level of 10,000
ft., that extends about 10 m. NW. to
the Leuchtkogl (9,981'), while a much
longer, but less loftv, range terminates
to NE. in the Serlesspitz (8,898'). On
the N. side, or within the elbow thus
formed, another parallel sy.stem of two
ridges diverges from the Wildes Ilinter-
bergl (10,925'). The higher of these
extends NW. to the Grieskogl, and there
forks into diverging branches ; while at
rt. angles to it a longer ridge runs NE.
to the Saile (7,884') near Innsbruck.
Some of the highest summits of the
group are inserted in the space between
the central points of these two elbow-
shaped ranges, but these al.'^o aiFect a
parallel disposition. From the Euder-
hofspitz (11,393') a short ridge runs
NW. to the Brunnenkogl, while a NE.
ridge, terminating in the Milderauspitz
ROUTE E. NEUSTIFT.
179
(8.930'\ divides the two main branches
of the Stubaythal, and, in the opposite
direction, a SW. ridge connects the Ru-
derhofspitz with the Hochspitz (10,984').
The accessory ranges for the most part
conform to tlie general plan, which is
seen in the direction of the minor A^al-
leys. By far the larger part of the drain-
age of these Alps is carried to the Inn,
either northeastward through the Wipp-
thal, or NW. through the Oetzthal. It
is only at the S. end that a few glaciers
send their streams to the Adige through
the Passeyerthal. or through the Eisack
to Brixeu and Botzen.
The passes mentioned in this Rte. are
all somewhat laborious, and, excepting
til at fii*st described, are little known even I
to the native guides. {
In going from Innsbruck to the Stu- I
bajiihal, the traveller has a choice of '
ways. Tliat most frequently chosen is
to follow the old Brenner road as far as
Ober-Schonberg (Rte. A), and then take
the track to Mieders (3,132'), f hr. dis-
tant, a cheerful villao-e standing just at
the opening of the Stubaythal at a con- [
siderable height above the rt. bank of !
the Etdzback, which has here cut a deep
trench through the secondary rocks.
The good inn (Blaue Traube) was for-
merly frequented in summer by visitors
from Innsbruck. The ordinary course
is to cross the Rutzbach a little above
Mipdfrs, and follow its 1. bank to
Fulpmes (2,970'), with a good inn
(Pfurtscheller's). An omnibus, con-
venient for luggage, leaves this place
daily for Innsbruck, returning in the
afternoon. Instead of taking Fulpmes
on the way, the pedestrian may follow
the track which keeps all the way to
Neustift by the rt. bank of the Rutzbach.
A more direct way from Innsbruck to
Fulpmes than that by Mieders is to
follow a track by the village of Mutters
(2,666'), which lies on the slopes W. of
the Sill at the NE. base of the Saile.
The path winds along the slopes above
the junction of the Rutzbach with the
Sill, and passes Te/fes (3,207'), a pretty |
village at some height above the 1. bank '
of the former stream, 20 m. from Fulp- !
mes. From the latter village a path
leads to Axams in the Selrainerthal,
bearing a little E. of N. over a pass called
Halsl (6,583'), between the Ampferstein
(8,373') and the Saile (7,884'). The
latter, which is the easternmost summit
of the range dividing Selrain from Stu-
bay, is sometimes ascended for the sake
of its fine view. Although the whole
zone between the Inn and the Eisack is
broadly described as being composed of
crystalline rocks, the rocks on either side
of the lower Stubaythal are of triassic
age, and partly of dolomitic limestone,
whose characteristic forms will be recog-
nised especially in the peaks on the S. side
of the valley. In 1^- hr., steady walking,
from Fulpmes the traveller reaches
Neustift (3,210'), the highest village
in the Stubaythal. Salzburger's inn
supplies good country quarters — but the
landlord died lately. Urbas Loisi ( to
be heard of in summer at Ranalt or
Barenbad) and Pancraz Gle nser are
both good guides. They expect 8 fl.
(without food) for the more difficult
glacier passes. The position of the village
is fine. It is indeed rather distant from
the higher peaks at the head of the mam
valley, but it stands close to the openinp-
of two lateral glens which offer several
interesting exciirsions. Both are formed
by ridges running parallel to the general
direction of the valley, but the streams
that at first keep the same direction are
turned aside, and finally joiii the torrent
of the Rutzbach.
The less considerable of these is the
Pinneserthcil. It lies between the main
ridge dividing Stubay from Gschnitz, and
a short ridge terminating near Neustift
in the Eifferspitz (8,217'). The latter
branches o\it from the main ridge where
it reaches its highest point in the fine
peak of the Habicht. The scenery of
this short glen is very wild and striking.
2 hrs. from Neustift the ti-aveller reaches
the Pinneser Alp (5,012'), where those
who make the ascent of the Habicht from
this side usually pass the night. From
thence a path is carried for seme distance
SW., and then turns due S., and mounts
to the Pinneser Joch (8,395'), a pasB
2
180
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 40. STUBAY DISTRICT.
lying a short distance E. of the Habicht.
From the summit the traveller may
descend into the Gschnitzthal (Ete. H),
which is reached a little way above the
chief village. The ascent of the Habicht
(10,746'), also called Hager, may be
made equally well from Neustift or from
G-schnitz. as in either case the summit
is reached from the Pinneser Joch. The
way is over a glacier lying on the E.
slope of the mountain, and the only
serious difl&culty is in crossing a Bcrg-
schrwnd, near the summit, which has
sometimes been found troublesome. The
panorama is especially remarkable for
the view of the neighbouring peaks of
the Stubay Alps, nearly all of which are
in view. It has been included among
the illustrations to the above-cited work
of 3DI. Earth and Pfaundler.
The other more considerable glen
opening near Neustift is described lower
down. The glacier passes leading from
that village to Lengenfeld are now to be
noticed. They should be undertaken
only with a good guide and a solid rope.
1. l^eustift to Lengenfeld by the Mut-
terberger Joch {9,893'). 11 to 12 hrs.
This pass, chiefly used by the native
hunters, is approached through the
main branch of the Stubaythal. The
way lies for several miles about due
SW., by a track which is passable for
rough country carts as far as the
hamlet of Volderau (3,742'), about 1^
hr. above Neustift. Following the track
by the rt. bank, the traveller reaches
Falbeson, W. of which a torrent issues
from a deep recess in the mountains.
It is fed by the Huhe Mooaferner, a
large glacier lying on the E. slope of
ihe nuderhoj'sp'ifz (11.393'), and S. of
the Stespitz f 11,202'). which is acces-
sible on this side. Above Falbeson the
path tiirns for a while nearly due S. to
RiiiiaU (4.185'), the highe>t hamlet in
the main valley, 2\ hrs. from Neustift.
There is now a very fair mountain inn
here— no meat, but ei:gs and fowls.
Those who do not intend to attack the
peak of the Wilder Ptatl", or to make a
detour to the Sulzenau (Rte. F), may
enjoy an admirable view by mounting W.
from Ranalt to the Pfandler Alp, and
thence to a projecting point 8,054 feet
in height. About ^ hr. above Eanalt the
main torrent receives a considerable
tributary flowing nearly due N. from a
t short glen or recess in the mountains
called Langenthal. Its S. end is closed
by the Langenthalferner. a large gla-
cier, several miles in width, formed by
the snows accumulated on the N. side of
the range extending from the Wilder
i Freiger (11,253') to the Feueratein
j (10,'713'). It is further noticed in Ete.
I G-. From the jimction of the two tor-
, rents the rough cart-track runs westward
to the Hiitten oi Schbngelair (4:,5S1'), and
^ hr. farther reaches Graha (4,899'),
a chalet conveniently placed for those
I making the ascent of the Wilder PfaflF
I by the Sukenau Glacier. Following the
I main valley, nearly due E., the traveller
I reaches the Mutttrberger Alp ( 1 1 hr. from
Ranalt), whence a steep ascent leads
■to the Oberleger (6,219'), the highest
' group of hiiiten in the valley, about
I 44 hrs. from Neustift. This lies at the
I lower end of the Glamergrube, as is
I locally called the uppermost trough-
; shaped depression forming the head of
! the Stubaythal. A very steep ascent
I leads to the last basin at the foot of the
: pass, Iving between the Bauvkogl
: (10,561') and the Bockkogl (11,120'). A
short way to the rt. of the track the
traveller may visit the Mutterberger See,
' a little lake almndantly stocked w^th
fish at the unusual height of 8,250 ft.
Amid huge blocks of gneiss the traveller
1 reaches the last steep declivity by which,
after crossing a neve-slope for ^ hr., he
attains in 4 hrs. from Graba the sum-
■ mit of the Mutterberger Joch (9.893').
' It commands a fine view of the
I Wilder Pfaff, but in other directions the
prospect is limited. The descent is
\ commenced, through a steep couloir,
' which leads down to a slope of rotigh
debris set at a high angle, and requiring
caution ; and it is only after a con-
siderable part of the way has been thus
' accomplished that the traveller finally
\ lands upon the Sidzthalfcrner, a fine
glacier filling the upper end of the
ROUTE E. — ALPEINERTHAL.
181
Sulzthal. This is traversed diagonally
from the rt, to the 1. bank, and the level
of the valley below the glacier is at-
tained at the SW. base of the Schrankogl,
the second in height of the peaks of this
group. Anotlier considerable glacier,
the Schwarzcrbcrgferner, falls into the
head of the valley a short way W. of the
track. The descent is at first gentle,
then much more rapid ; two very poor
chalets are passed, and in 1^ hr. from the
foot of the glacier, the traveller, keeping
due NW. along the Fischbach, reaches
Gries (5,121'), a very poor village,
where the mountaineer now finds a
friendly welcome at the house of Herr
Trientl, formerly parish-priest of Grurgl,
whose interesting account of that district
is published in the first annual volume
of the Austrian Alpine Club. The name
Gries recurs very frequently among the
valleys of the Tyrol Alps, and in this
district there are two other villages of
the same name, one near the Brenner
Pass (Rte. A), the other in Selrain (Kte.
C). If the mountaineer should not be
satisfied with the long day's walk, and
the noble scenerywhieh he has traversed,
he may descend in | hr. from Gries to
Lenqenfeld, and find good quarters at
the'village-inn (§ 48, Rte. B).
2. Neustift to Lengevfeld throKgh the
Alpeinerthal. Allusion has already been
made to a glen parallel to the Stubay-
thal, enclosed at its head by several of
the highest summits of this district,
whose torrent, after running for several
miles from SW. to NE., turns to the rt.,
and descends somewhat S. of E, into
the Stubaythal a little above Neustift.
This is the Alpeinerthal, known at
Neustift as the Oberberg, but not to be
confounded with the glen of that name
near the Brenner Pass. The torrent
issues from the Alpeinerferner, one of
the greatest glaciers of this district,
whose main southern branch is locally
called Thalferner. The beaten track
mounts from near Neustift by the 1.
bank of the Alpemerbach, but it is
nearly as short a course to follow
the opposite bank and pass Bdrenbad
(4,125'), a rough but cleau establishment,
visited for the sake of its mineral waters
by peasants from the adjoining valleys.
From hence or from Neustift the traveller
is recommended to ascend the Hoher
Burgstall (8,563'), a projecting peak
commanding a vei-y fine view of the
surrounding Alps. Of two summits,
that to the SE. is the higher by a few
feet. The right path to it is easily missed.
The valley path on the 1. bank passes
some clusters of stone huts, scarcely to
be distinguished at a distance from the
masses of rock fallen from the sur-
romiding peaks that give a savage
aspect to the scenery. This is scarcely
relieved by the masses of dark pine
forest that here and there clothe the
slopes. The upper level of the glen ia
fairly entered at the Alp of Seduck
(4,752'). The path now keeps to the rt.
bank, chiefly through pine forest, with
the snowy peaks at the head of the glen
gleaming here and there through the
branches. On the rt. hand the foaming
torrent springs from ledge to ledge over
successive steps of mica slate-rock, com-
pleting a thoroughly characteristic
picture of high Alpine scener}'. Crossing
to the 1. bank, the path mounts in
3 hrs. from Neustift to the Ober-Iss Alp
(5,659'), standing on a gentle slope of
upland pasture at the foot of the Hohe
Villerspitz. From hence diverges the
path leading to the Lisenzerthal over
the ridge SW. of that peak (Rte. D). At
one of the huts the stranger finds
shelter and refreshment— wine, coffee,
eggs, and sometimes bread. The
Alpeinerbach flows in a deep channel to
the 1., and a column of cloudlike spray
marks from a distance the site of a fine
waterfall. A steep ascent by the 1. hauic
leads in f hr. to the highest chalets,
called Alpeiner Alp (6,702), at no
great distance from the waterfall. Above
this point the valley seems to be barred
across by a ridge of rock, but this is
surmounted by a frequented cattle-
track, and on reaching the summit the
stranger gains a grand view of the
noble amphitheatre of snowy peaks
that enclose the head of the valley.
This ia still more fully enjoyed when,
182
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUBAY DISTRICT.
after passing a solitary unoccupied stone
hut, he reaches the foot of the glacier,
found by MM. Baxth and Pfaundler to be
7,307 ft, above the sea. The surrounding
rang'33 form a quadrangle open to the
XE., -whose highest summits may be
noticed in the following order, beginning
about due 8. and turning round to W,
and N. : Krdlspitz (11,01 2'), Secspitz
(11,202'), Ruderhofspitz (11,393'),
S-hwarzirherg, Hocheisspitz (10,837'X
Verborgener Berg (11,120'), Wilder
Thurm (10,963'), Wildes Hinterhergl
(10.924'), and Brunnenlcogl (10,901').
Between the Seespitz and Wilder Thurm
all the snows of this great enclosure are
finally united in the great ice-stream of
the Alpeinerferner, and the usual object
of travellers who reach its lower end is
to make a short excursion on its surface,
and enjoy its grand scenery. The pass
of the Schwarztrberger Joch (10,09-i)
lies at the uppermost SW. extremity of
the neve feeding the glacier, at the S.
side of the Hocheisspitz, and between that
and the Schwarzerberg. It has been
called difficult and dangerous, but those
epithets apply to most high glacier
passes when undertaken by inexpe-
rienced persons, and without proper ap-
pliances. In 1864 Dr. Ruthner traversed
the pass, having on the same day made
the first ascent of the Ruderhofspitz.
That peak, ' commanding one of the
finest views in this district' [R. P ].
may be reached without much difficulty
trom the Alpeinerferner, and a steep
des^cent effected by the Muttenberger
Alp to Ranalt. From the summit of
the Schwarzerbergev Joch the peak of
the Schnnikogl (1 1,474'), the chief rival
cf the Wilder Piatt, is seen rising
beyond the upper neve-basin of the
fSchwarzerbergferner, somewhat re-
sembling, on a rather smaller scale, the
peak of the Grivola as seen from Les
Poussets above Gogne, In June, 1866,
I\Iessrs. F. F. Tuckett and F. A. Brown
reached the summit by the E. arete in
1 ^ hr. from the summit of the Schv\arz-
erbt rger Joch. The descent from the
la'ter to the head of the Sulzthal is
effected mainly by the rt,, or northern,
l)ank of the Schwarzerbergferner, and
I the track from the Muttenberger Joch
\ (see aliove) is joined a short way below
! the lower e^d of the Suiz'hal Glacier.
1 The writer has received from Mr.
Holzmann an account of the passage
of the Hmterbergler Joch (about
10,5.50'). which he effected from Ones,
in the Sulzthal, to Neustift, partly in
company with a chamois hunter from
Gries, and par'ly alone and in bad
i weather. Ascending the ISulzthal for
I about 1^ hr. from Gries, he turned to
!the 1. up the E. slope of the valley, and
[in J hr. reached the opening of a wild
glen — called Schraukor, lying on the
[ NW. Bide of the Scl}rankogl. Mount-
ing eastward for another ^ hr,, they
I then turned to the "N from a rocky
' plateau where there is a small tarn, and
in 1 hr. 20 m. more attained the ridge
connecting the Brunnenkogl with the
i Winnebachkogl, and overlooking the
I head of the Langenthal, towards which
j the descent seems practicable. Turning
j E. over the neve close to the ridge they
climbed a couloir that descends from
; near the summit of the Bruinietikogl
\ (10,901'), and in | hr. more attained
{ the crest connecting that peak with the
I Hinterb-rgl and looking down on the
I head of the Alpeinerthal. There is a
lower point in the same ridge lying
more to the rt., but the higher one
seems preferable. The summit of the
' Brunnenkogl — only 351 ft. above the
pass — was gained in 25 min. The
] btrgsclirund below the pass being im-
j practicable, it is necessary to keep to
I the 1, over rocks, and descend by a
1 couloir on the E. face of the peak to
the neve-basin below. This is a true
ice lake, or closed reservoir, wherein
the snow has accumulated until it par-
tially overflows in one direction towards
the I^isenzerferner. and in the other
towards the Stubaythal, towards which
it descends eastward in a steep ice-fall.
'I heie is a practicable couloir close to
tne I. bank, down which a steep descent
may be effected. The stream from the
ice-fall disappears under the 1. moraine
of the Berglesferner, and the easiest
ROUTE F. BILDSTOCKL PASS.
183
way is to traverse that glacier, below
which a track on the \. bank of the
torrent leads down to the Alpeiner Alp
— less than 3 hrs. from the sumrnit of
the pass. 2^ hrs. (descending the
valley) suffice to reach Neustift.
In approaching the Stubaythal from
Matrei on the Brenner road (Rte. A.),
the traveller may ascend easily by an
agreeable path to Waldrast, a pretty
inn frequented by excursionists from
Innsbruck, and then descend to Fulpmes,
o: else follow another rather shorter
track leading to Neustift by Medraz.
Route F.
neustift to soldex. ascent of the
wilder pfaff.
A pass leading from the head of the
Stubaythal to the Winacherthal, which
opens into the Oetzthal at Solden, has
long been known to the nadve chamois-
hunters. The bad reputation acquired
bv previous fatal accidents was con-
firmed in 1860 by the unfortunate fate
of the Rev. W. G. Watson, who, in
descending on the SW. side, accom-
panied by a friend, and a guide named
MuUer, of Neustift, was lost in a con-
cealed crevasse. The behaviour of the
guide on that occasion created an un-
favourable prepossession, which was
perhaps unjustly extended to Tyrolese
guides in general. It must be remem-
i>ered that a guide in Tyrol means a
man who shows the way, but who is in
no way responsible for the traveller's
safety.
The way from Neustift to Solden
foliows the main branch of the Stubay-
thal, described in the last Rte., as far as
the Mutterberger Alp ; but a short way
above it the path to the Mutterberger
J,)ch is left on the rt. hand, and a path
turns oflf to SSW., and ascends through
a ravine called Wildgrube, along a tor-
rent that is fed by the Schuu/elfemer
and Fernauferner — two adjoining gla-
ciers that descend into a recess on the
SW. of the valley. The Wildgrube leads
to a little basin called ['Uter-Fernau,
and then by another short and steep
ascent the traveller reaches the Ober-
Fernau. a grassy plain, bright with
Alpine flowers, just below the end of the
Fernau Glacier. From thence the track
runs westward along the base of the
Egqesengrat (8.632'), the summit of
which commands a fine view of the sur-
rounding peaks. The way to the pass
keeps to the N. side, or 1. moraine, of
the Schaufelferner, above which, on the
opposite side, rises the peak of the
Schaufelspitz (10,924'), ascended in
1862 ijy Herr Specht with Urbas Loisl.
Keeping a westerly course the traveller
in 2 hrs. from the Mutterberger Alp
attains to the moraine of the Bildstockl
Glacier, which appears to be the local
name for the upper part of the large
glacier named Daunkoglferner on Earth
and Pfaundler's map. Turning SW. an
ascent of 2 hrs. more leads to the summit
of the Bildstockl Pass (about 9,750'),
which is marked with a cross. S. of
the cross is a small pool, often frozen
over. The pass lies about half-way
between the Wi7iacherspitz (\0,9oS') and
the Schaufelspitz. The descent by the
Winacherferner is steeper than the
ascent. Some guides preler to descend
by the E. side, others to keep as much
as possible to the rt., but all agree that
the course marked on Earth and
Pfaundler's map, running down the
middle of the ice stream, is utterly ob-
jectionable. The best course is ap-
parently that bearing to the rt. side of
the glacier. Very near to the pool, just
below the summit, are rocks which lead
down to the neve of the upper part of
the Winacherferner. Crossing this in
a direction but little W. of due S. the
traveller returns to the rocks above the
rt. bank, through which a ratlier steep
descent avoids the most difficult part of
the ice-fall. Eelow this the course is
over the glacier, keeping close to the rt.
bank to avoid crevasses, until the ice
is left near a little level space where a
184
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUBAT DISTRICT.
faint track is found that lea is down to
the Winacherthal, iieeping near a small
torrent that falls over the steep slope
on its N. side. The level of the Wina-
cherthal, a short and wild glen visited
by herdsmen in summer, is reached
about 20 min. above the Karlinger Alp,
whence Solden is reached in 1^ hr.
The distance between tliat place and tlie
Mutterberger Alp is counted as 7 hrs.,
exclusive of halts, and 1 ^ hr. more must
be allowed between the Alp and Raualt.
It is reckoned a d;iy's work of 10 hrs.,
including halts. The guides ask 8 florins
for leading strangers across this pass.
MM. Earth and Pfaundler have
pointed out the existence of another pass
on the SE. side of the f^chaufelspitz,
about midway between that peak and
the Aperer Pfaff. It is higher but
seemingly more direct than the Bild-
stockl. This, which may be called
Fernau Jock, is 10,041 ft. in height;
it was reached by the above-named
travellers by the strip of rock and
moraine separating the Schaufel Glacier
from the Fernau Glacier, in their ascent
of the Wilder Pfaff, but it does not ap-
pear that the descent into the Winacher-
thal has yet been effected. This would
lie over the NW. branch of the Pfaffen-
ferner, which is much crevassed, and
should bsundertaken only by experienced
ice-men. The statements of MM. Earth
and Pfaundler and other travellers
respecting this and the Eildstockl Pass
are not quite reconcilable with the map
published by those writers. Further
discrepancies between the rrtap and the
text may be noted in the upper part of
the Sulzenau Glacier.
The most interesting route for the
adventurous mountaineer between Neu-
etift and the upper Oetzthal is doubtless
that by the Pfafen Jock (about 10,600',
F.F.T.), first traversed in 1865 by
Messrs. Tuckett, Backhouse, Fox, and
Freshfield, with which may be combined
the ascent of the Wilder Pfaf {11,512'),
the highest peak of the Stubay Alps.
To this peak the name Schau'felspitz,
properly belonging to the much lower
summit overlooking the Eildstockl Pass,
was formerly given. The designation
now commonly adopted originates in
the popular legend of a parson led away
by his passion for the chase, who, with
his curate, deserted his church and his
flock on a holiday, preferring to hunt
the chamois on the high glaciers. Bi^-
wildered amidst the crevasses, the faith-
less pastors never returned to the
village; and on a stormy day their
shades may sometimes be descried, still
seeking in vain for an outlet from their
icy prison.
The principal peak, lying exactly in
the axis of the main branch of the
Stubaythal, has a double summit, of
which the eastern (locally called Zv.cker-
hutl) is higher by 18 ft. It is flanked
on the E. and W. by two dependent
peaks, of which the Oesilicher Pfaf
measures 11,376 ft., while the western
point of bare rock is the Aperer Pfaff
(10,981'), To the SE. of the highest
peak is the Sonklarspitz (11,410'), ard
NE. of this, or about due E. of the
Oestlicher Pfaff, is the Wilder Freigcr
(11,253'). It is now ascertained that
the watershed runs directly between t:ie
last-named summits, and that a trans-
verse ridge connects the former with
the Sonklarspitz. It is less certain whe-
ther or not there may be a continuous
ridge connecting the Oestlicher Pfaff with
the Aperer Freiger (10,67 o'), and dividing
the neve of the Sulzenauferner from that
of the Griinauferner. Five large glaciers
diverge from the mountain. On the N. side
is the Sxdzenauferner, and on the NE.,
the Grunauferner ; to the W., the Pfaf'en-
ferner ; to the S., the Hohlferner ; and
it now appears certain that the great
Uehlethalferner (Rte. G) extends to the
SE. base of the Oestlicher Pfaff.
The first ascent, by MM. Earth and
Pfaundler, was made from the Mutter-
berger Alp. Having reached the above-
mentioned pass of the Fernau Joch,
between the Schaufelspitz and the
Aperer Pfaff, they passed along the S.
face of the latter till they reached the
depression or pass— subsequently named
Pfaffen Joch — between the Aperer and
Wilder Pfaff. From hence the latter
ROUTE F. ASCENT OF THE WILDER PFAFF.
185
shows as a ven- sharp snow pyramid
about 900 ft. in height. Though not
very steep, the arete is excessively sharp.
Careful step-cutting and perfect steadi-
ness on the part of all the travellers are
indispensable.
In the second ascent, ilr. Tuckett
and his companions took a more direct
and more interesting course by the Sid-
zenau. As mentioned in Kte. E, a
copious torrent descends from the S. in
a very fine waterfall, and enters the
main branch of the Stubaythal at the
Graba Alp. A track mounts by the W.
side of the waterfall, and in less than
1 hr. from the Alp reaches a grassy
plain, the fiUed-up bed of a lake,
6,063 ft. above the sea, surrounded by
several of the highest peaks of this dis-
trict. It well deserves a visit even by
those who do not intend going farther.
This basin is walled in on the S. side
by a range of steep rocks about 1,000 ft.
in height. Down the face of these
rocks the streams from the Sulzenau and
Griiuau Glaciers descend in cascades
that have cut a deep channel, and
are seen full in front below the ridge
of the Aperer Freiger, which separates
the above-named glaciers. A faintly
marked track leads up the rocks to
the base of the Sulzenau Glacier.
This is divided into two branches
by a high shelf of rock that runs
NNW. from the Oestlicher Pfaff, but
does not extend so far as is shown
on MM. Barth and Pfauxidler's map.
The glacier is easily traversed as far as
the base of the lower ice-fall, which is
surmounted by keeping to the rocky
slope on the right bank. Above this is
the junction of the two branches of the
glacier, and the uppermost, or western,
branch is seen to descend in a still
loftier ice-fall. This, like the former, is
to be climbed by the rocks on the L
hand (or rt. bank), forming the N. end
of the ridge or shelf ab jve spoken of.
Mr. Tuckett and his compinions this
gained the summit of the Ffaffen Joch
(about 10,600'), in less than 4 hrs. from
Graba, excluding halts. Ha^Hng reached
the western summit of the Wilder Pfaflf,
and returned to the col, they descended
SW. to a basin of neve, at the head of
the Pfaflfen Glacier; before long this
forms an ice-fall, and they were forced
to bt-ar to the rt. along its brow for a
considerable distance till they were able
to cut their way down to some very
steep rocks, whence they succeeded, but
not without difficulty, m getting down
i to the head of the Winacherthal, 2 hrs.
above Solden. Future explorers may
try whether it is not an easier course to
keep due W. across the upper part of
I the PfafFenferner, and then cross a ridge
beyond which lies a small tarn whose
stream runs down to the Winacherthal
beside the path from the Bildstockl
'' Pass.
i In both the ascents above described
' the travellers found that time did not
■ allow them to reach the highest point,
or Zuckerhiitl, which is connected with
the W. peak by an extremely sharp
arete, chiefly formed of ice. The higher
point has since been attained by Herr
Specht, and again, in 1867, by Herr
Stiidl. The latter effected the extremely
steep and rather dangerous descent
from the summit to the Hohlferner,
and so reached the highest huts in the
j Winacherthal.
[Messrs. R. and W. M. Pendlebury,
1 with Gabriel Spektenhauser, with some
difficulty in the passnge of a large berg-
schrund succeeded by a steep ice-wall,
crossed the ridge connecting the Oest-
licher Pfaff and Wilder Freiger from
the Graba Alp to the upper neve of the
Ueblethalferuer. This stretches south-
ward nearly at a level for some dis-
tance ; by bearing to the 1. close under
the Sonklarspitz, they reached a second
col — a slight depression in the ridge
S. of that peak — and without further
difficulty descended into the head of
the Passeyertlial. and so reached
Schonau (§ 48, Rte. B). The course
followed was much the same as that of
Dr. Ruthner (Rte, H).]
186
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUBAY DISTRICT.
Route G.
NECSTIFT TO STEKZING.
In describing the high-road over the
Brenner Pass (Rte. A), reference -was
made to two Alpine valleys, the one
opening a few miles above Sterzing, the
other just below that town. The active
mountaineer may reach either of those
valleys by fine glacier from the upper
end of the Stubaythal, while making
but a short detour from the road be-
tween Innsbruck and Sterzing.
It was mentioned in Rte. E that the
torrent issuing from a short glen, called
Laingenthal, flows northward to join
the Rutzbach above Ranalt. This
issues from the Ldngenthal/erner, a
glacier of great breadth lying on the N.
slope of the range connecting the Wilder
Freiger with the Feuerstein (10,713').
It is not to be confounded with a much
smaller glacier of the same name at the
head of the Lisenzerthal, nor with the
Laangenthal Glacier near Gurgl (§ 48,
Rte. D). Over the glacier here referred
to lie two Rtes. to Sterzing.
1. By the Pflerscher Hochjock (9,7 80').
This pass was traversed several years
ago by Mr. Marshall Hall, more re-
cently by Dr. Ficker of Innsbruck, and
the Editor is indebted for full notes of
the way to Mr. Holzmann, who crossed it
with Anderl Pfurtscheller of Ranalt,
son of the innkeeper, a good local guide.
It is not a col, or depression between
two peaks, but a passage over the ridge
E. of the Feuerstein, at a point accessible
from the Langenthal Glacier. Ascend-
ing by the rt. bank of the torrent, in 2
hrs. from Ranalt, the highest hiitten of
the Langenthal, called Im Griibel, are
reached. Crossing the torrent and as-
cending to SSW. yon arrive under a
wall of rock that supports the W.
branch of the Langenthal Gl. It is
now necessary to turn to the 1. and as-
cend to SE. over rocks and snow to
reach the lower part of the glacier be-
low the junction of its two main
branches. Keeping the same direction,
with the Feuerstein right ahead, the
glacier and its moraines are crossed.
The way then lies nearly due E. up a
shallow ravine between the E. branch
of the Langenthal Gl. and the S. wall of
the valley. To avoid the upper ice-fall it
is necessary to turn to the N. and climb
the rocks above the rt bank. Having
gained the snow-field above, the course
is ESE. towards the snowy ridge that
falls to NE. from the Feuerstein. As-
cending amid partly covered crevasses
you reach the edge, in places over-
hanging, where the ridge falls in a pre-
cipice towards the Gschnitzthal. Turn-
ing to the rt., and traversing a snow
arete between the precipice on the 1.
and a bergschrund on the rt., you attain
to the summit of the pass, where some
projecting rocks mark the point of junc-
tion of Stubay, Gschnitz, and Pflersch,
and command a magnificent view. The
descent lies down the arete connecting
the Feuerstein with the Schneespitz.
From the lowest point in that ridee it
is possible to descend by a couloir to
the Feuerstein Glacier, lying at the
uppermost end of the Pflerschthal ; but
it is a better way to keep at about the
same height along the rocks forming
the precipitous southern face of the
Schneespitz. Passing through a gap in
a ridge projecting SE. from that peak
you attain the upper level of a great
glacier (not laid down on any map)
called Schneespitzferner, flowing nearly
due E. This is traversed without dif-
ficulty, and you then traverse two rock
basins with remarkable glaciated sur-
faces, and descend green slopes into the
Pflerschthal, which is reached about
20 m. above the church at Boden. Time
about 8 hrs. from lianalt exclusive of
halts.
[From the arete below the Hochjoch
it is doubtless possible to descend into
the Gschnitzthal by the westernmost of
three small glaciers, all named Simming-
ferner, and there is another pass from
Pflersch to that valley between the
Schneespitz and the Eisenspitz (^ 9,893')
over the middle Simming Gl.]
The traveller who descends into the
head of the Pflerschthal by the Feuer-
stein Glacier passes near to a remark-
ROUTE G. — RIDNAUN.
187
able -waterfall, called HiJlle. -where the j
main torrent springs from the level 1
ot the npper pastures to the much !
lower basin, -where ihe highest houses j
are situated. From the hamlet of i
Hinter.stein a path runs south-ward, |
close by the EHcsspitz (8,608'), to St. |
l^orenz ir IJidnaun, and another crosses |
the ridge W. of the Tribulaun (10,1 fiS'), ,
and leads in G hrs. to Gschnitz. At the
southern foot of the latter mountain, !
N^hich is the easternmost high peak of \
the Stiibay Alps, is the hamlet called j
Borlni (4.123'), with the church and the j
curates liouse, -where, in a case of need, j
slit-lter and some refreshment may be
had. From hence to its opening on the
Brenner road the valley is nearly level
and well cultivated, containing several
hamlets and scattered houses. Above
Aiiiclien the valley is locally called
ItiTier-Pfl-rsch. The rail-way over the
Brenner Pass is carried for about 2^ miles
into th»' lower part of the valley, retum-
inir along the slopes on the N. side, so
as to regain the valley of the Eisack at
a I onsiderable height above Gossensass
(see Rte. B\ In less than 2 hrs. from
Boden the tiaveller may descend gently
nlong atolerable char-road to Gossensass
on the Brenner road (Rte. A). Should
the traveller intend to return to the N.
side of the main chain, he may take a
very agreeable -way, leading in 6 hrs.
from AnicJien over the Grub Jnch
(7,021') to Gries on the N. side of the
Brenner Pass. The path on the N. side
passes the Oherberger Seen, anddescends
through the short but extremely pic-
turesque glen of Oberberg. See Rte. A.
2. % the Ridnaunthal. The Rid-
natmthal, -whose torrent joins the Eisack
a little below Sterzing, in many re-
spects resembles the above-described
parallel glen of the Ptierschthal, but
it is divided from the head of the
Stubaythal by the highest peaks and
most considerable glaciers of this
district. 'ihere is but one known
pass, the Gr'mdl JocK lying E. of the
H(>jriiinl (10,262'), and considerably
\V. of the Feuerstein. From the foot
of tlie Liiiigenthal Glacier the -wav is at
first SW., and then about due S. On
the S. side the descent is by the steep
and rather difficult Hiingendefemer,
belo-w which it is necessary to bear to
the 1., or SE.. until the head of the
Ridnaunthal is reached at the Alp of
A gels.
About i hr. lower down a considerable
lateral glen, called Liizz'ichcrlhal, opens
to SW., at right angles to the main
valley : through it a path leads over an
easy pass to the head of the Passeyerthal
(Rte. G). Descending to ESE., the
highest houses in the Ridnaunthal, near
the church of St. Lorenz, are soon
reached, and in less than ^ h.r. more
the village of
Ridnann (4.379'). sometimes called
for distinction Inner-Ridnaun, with a
poor inn kept by kindly people. The
church of St. Joseph at this place and
the very ancient church of St. Magdalen,
on a rock above the path descending the
valley , are very picturesque, and deserve
the traveller's notice. A defile separates
Ridnaun from the lower part of the
valley, and about ^ hr. descending are
required to reach Mareit. the chief place
in the lower Ridnaunthal. It is over-
j looked by a large country-house that
stands on the site of the ancient castle
of Wolfsthurm. Passing below the
! pretty village of Tel/s. that stands on
i the slopes above the 1. bank of the
j Gailbach, the track traverses Thuins,
and then turns northward to reach
Sterzing (Rte. A).
The Gailbach, which drains the Rid-
naunthal, has its chief source in the
I Ueblethalferner, the largest glacier of
I the Stubay Alp**. It originates in an
extensive neve-basin between the peaks
of the Wilder Pfaflf, Sonklarspitz, and
Wilder Freiger. and is bounded to the
AV. and S. by a ridge connecting the
Sonklarspitz with the Botzer (10,686';,
and extending eastward fiom the latter
peak. From the great ice-reservoir in-
cluded within these limits a compara-
tively narrow stream of ice flows east-
ward into the head of the Ridnaunthal,
terminating a short way N. of the .\gels-
alp. M M. Bartii and Pfaundler effected
188
CENTRAL TYUOL ALPS. § 49. STUBAY DISTRICT.
a fine pass over the head of this glacier,
passing S. of the Sonklarspitz, and
reaching the head of the Passeyerthal
— locally called Hiiiterseethal — some
way above the point where the path of
t' e Tinibler Joch falls into that valley.
They probably descended by the same
couise afterwards taken by Dr. Kutimer,
and later by Messrs. Pendlebury, in
crossing from Sulzenau between the
AViider Freiger and the E. peak of the
Wilder PfafF. The first traveller who
crossed directly from Ranilt to Ridnaun
by the FlafFennieder and Uehlethal-
fi-rner was Mr. Holzmaun in 1872. He
reached Sterzing in \-J hrs. exclusive
of hults. See Iltes. F. and H.
Route H.
FEND, OE GTTRGL, TO THE BRENNER PASS.
There is an increasing disposition
among mountaineers to arrange routes
through the Alps so as to descend as
rarely, andfor as short a time as possible,
below the region of permanent snow
and high Alpine vegetation. With that
object numerous ' High-level Routes '
have been devised among the ranges of
the Pennine and the Central Alps. The
conformation of the Tyrolese Alps is
less favourable to carrying out a similar
design, but it may be convenient to point
out the various routes that may be taken
by a traveller wishing to keep as near
as possible to the crest of the main
chain. Most of the valleys and passes
tliat may be taken for that purpose
through the Stubay Alps have been
noticed, in the foregoing routes ; but
there is one rather considerable valley,
Gschnitztna,!, besides two or three
passes, not hitherto enumerated.
In starting from Fend or G-urgl, the
traveller will either cross the Timbler
Joch (§ 48, Rte. B) to the head of
the Passeyerthal, or descend to Solden,
and remount towards the higher peaks
through the Winacherthal. In the fol-
lowing enumeration the routes are ,
arranged in the order of the various ;
points on the Brenner, wh'^re the tra-
veller would first reach the high-road
which is described in Rte. A.
1. To Stcinack. Starting from Solden,
the traveller may reach the Graba Alp
in upper Stubay by the PfafFen Joch, or
the Mutterberger Alp by the Bildstockl.
Both passes are described in Rte. E.
He will sleep at either of the above-
named chalets, or else somewhat lower
down in the Stuba}i:hal, at Schbnge-
lair. As mentioned in the last Rte., the
latter p)lace is but a short way above
the junction of the Langenthal with the
main branch of the Stubay thai. On
the E. side the Langenthal is bounded
by a shiirt range including the double
peak of the Rothenspitzen, the Aeussere
Wettersjntz (10,063'), and Innere Wet-
terspitz (10,017'); and over this range
are two unnamed passes leading to the
Gschnitzthal. The shortest way is by
the northernmost of these passes lying
between the Aeussere Wetterspitz and
the Southern Rothenspitz (9,974'). The
former peak, commanding a fine view, is
easily reached from the summit of the
pass, and which is 9,143 ft. above the
sea-level. To reach the more southern
pass, it is necessary to follow the Lan-
genthal to the base of the great glacier,
and then ascend due E. along a torrent
that flows from the foot of the pass.
WTiichever of these passes be selected,
the traveller descends to the head of the
Gschnitzthal, and follows the rt. bank
of the torrent to the Lapones-AIp
(4,636'). The upper part of this valley
is uninhabited save in summer, and but
a solitary chapel is passed on the way to
the principal village. To the 1. rises
the Habicht, and E. of it the Pinneser
Joch, noticed in Rte. E. On the oppo-
site side rise the very bold limestone
peaks of the Trihidaun (10,167'). These
are extremely difficult of access, and the
highest, or western, peak is said not yet
to have been attained. [West of the
Tribulaun are two passes leading to
the Pflerschthal (Rte. G). One of
these, l}'ing close to that moun-
tain, is most convenient for the traveller
going from Pflersch to Gschnitz. The
ROUTE H. — FEND TO STERZIXG.
189
other, nearer to the head of the valley, is
attained by bearing to the rt. a con-
siderable way above the Lapones-Alp,
and by that way an active walier may
easily reach Pflersoh in one day from
Schonpfelair.] The chief place in the
Gschnitzthal is
Gschnitc (4,070'). There is no inn,
but strangers are received by che parish-
priest. They find here two good guides
for mountain excursions — Georg Pitt-
racher, and Andreas Salchner. The
scenery of the valley hereabouts offers
much variety from the contrast between
the limestone ridges dividing it from the
Pinneserthal (Ete.E), and the crystalline
slates that prevail at its upper end. In
descending the path keeps to the 1. bank.
On the opposite side, near the track lead-
ing to the Oberbergthal, is the ancient
chapel of St. M. Magdalen, or Magda-
lenenkirchlein (5,338'), conspicuously
perched on a rock. After passing
through a defile between bold limestone
rocks, the track approaches Trins,
counted 2 hrs. from Gschiiitz. Eefore
reaching the village, the traveller passes
near to the modern castle of Schneeberg
(3,960'), standing on a projecting rock
above the torrent which separates it
from the village of Trins (3,885'). Near j
to it will be seen a ridge crossing the i
valley, which is the remains of the ter- [
minal moraine of an ancient glacier, i
Trins stands at the S. base of the Blaser
(7,332'), well known to Tyrolese bota-
nists for its varied and interesting
vegetation. Less than 1 hr. suffices for
the descent to Steinach (Rte. A) on the
Brenner road, standing exactly at the
opening of the Gschnitzthal.
2. To Gries. Reference was made in
Rte. A to the short but picturesque
glen, called Oberbergthal, which opens
on the Brenner road W. of the hamlet
of Gries. The traveller wishing to
take it on his way from the Uetzthal
may rt-ach Gschnitz bv the way above
described, aud aftiT crossing to the rt. 1
bank of the torrent mount by a rough j
pith througii the forest to a point]
just below the Magdalenkirchlein. He I
there enters the Magdaleuihal, a lateral
glen leading to the Muftcr, Joch This
is apparently 8,1.37 ft. in height, the
adjoining summit, call d Mutter, reach-
ing to about 4,(300 ft. TiiL-re is anotuer
pass some way NK. of the last, called
Oberberyer Joch (7,1(53') ; but this is
better suited for a traveller starting frora
Trins. From either pass the traveller
may descend into th-^ Oberbergthal
near the village of Obirberg (4,440').
An easy descent of 1 hr. leads thence
to Vinaders (4,097'), the priccipal place
in the valley, only \ hr. from Gries.
The traveller who has readied the
Pflerschthal by any one of the routes
mentioned below may take the Grub
Joch pass, leading from Anichen to
Oberberg, mentioned in Ete.G, and thus
reach Gries after seeing the finest
scenery of both valleys.
3. To Gossensass. It was seen in
Rte. P that the most direct way from
Neustift to Sterzing is throngh the
Pflerschthal, which opens on the high-
road of the Brenner at Gossensass, the
highest village on the S. side of the
latter pass. The same route may be
taken by a traveller coming from the
head of the Oetzthal, who, having reached
Schongelair from Solden by any of the
routes mentioned above, may on the
following day traverse the Pflerscher
Hochjoch to Pflersch, and on the third
morning descend to Gossensass, or cross
the pass leading to Gries.
4. To Sterzing by Eidnotin. The
route from the Oetzthal to the Brenner
last described is circuitous, and involves
two rather difficult passes. The way by
the Gschnitzthal is preferable for the
traveller whose aim is the N. side of the
Brenner Pass, while he whosf direction
lies S. of that boundary may find a more
direct way by the Riduaunthal. Some
light is thrown on thetopc^graphy of the
district by an expedition made by Dr.
Ruthner in 1867. Starting from Sul-
zenau (Rte. F), and ascending by the
j^lacier of the Aperer Freiger, he reacbe4
in .5^ hrs. the ridge, now known as the
Pfaffennieder (9,8 ti^.'.'), forn^ing the I^.
boundary of the Uebiethalferner a!i4
connecting the Oestiicher Pf^tf wjih
190
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUBAY DISTRICT.
the Sonklnrspitz ; he finally descended
into the Hinterseethal at the head of
Passeyer, making a -wide circuit round
the E. side of the latter peali.
The easiest way to reach Ridnaun
from Fend or Gurgl is to cross the
Timbler Joch to the head of the Pas-
seyerthal (§ 48, Rte. E), and thence
follow a direct and steep, or else an
easier and more circuitous, way to
Schnetberg. That name was formerly
given to some extensive mines, now
scarcely worked, but is now used for
the chapel and inn, considerably above
the mine, almost enclosed by peaks,
the chief of which (sometimes called
Schwarzseespitz) is 8,995 ft. above the
sea. The Frauenkirche, a chapel
which must be nearly 7,000 ft. above
the sea, is much frequented by pilgrims
on the 5th August. Except at that
moment, when it is overfull, the
traveller finds tolerable quarters in a
mountain-inn close at hand. An easy
pass leads from Schnee'oerg to the upper
end of the Lazzacherthal, but it is a still
easier course to pass through a tunnel,
nearly ^ m. long, formerly used by the
miners, which opens on the E. side
about 800 ft. below the top of the
pass. It is necessary to take lights.
The path descends NE. to the
point where the Lazzacherthal joins
the head of the Eidnaunthal (Ete. Gr),
through which lies the way to Sterzing.
The course above described is practicable
for ordinary tourists : the enterprising
mountaineer, with a good guide, may
take a much more difficult, but more in-
teresting, way, starting from Solden in
the Oetzthal. Following the main torrent
of the Winacherthal to its source at the
foot of the Hohlferner, a considerable
glacif^r that originates on the S. side of
the Wilder Pfaff, and the SW. side of
the Sonklarspitz, the traveller ascends
along the S. bank towards the ridge of
the S'hwarze Wand, which extends a
little W, of S. from the Sonklarspitz,
and forms the E. boundary of the Hohl-
ferner By ascending to the head of
the latter glacier to the point N. of the
Sonklar.'^pitz attained by Dr. Kuthner,
he would gain the upper nev6 of the
Ueblcthalferner, and might on the same
day reach the head of the Ridnannthal.
But, according to MM. Barth andPfaund-
ler, it is necessary to cross the ridge of
the Schwarze Wand at its S. end, and to
descend into the head of the Passeyer-
thal, and seek shelter at one cf the
highest chalets. Starting early on the
following morning, the traveller ascends
by a short but steep glacier to the
Konigshofer Joch, a pass forming the
lowest point in the range that encloses
on the western side the head of the
Uebhthalferner, the most extensive
glacier of the Stubay Alps. It includes
a number of branches that flow through
openings between the surrounding
peaks, and converge in a great basin,
which is drained by an ice-stream that
issues due E. towards the head of the
Ridnaunthal. The highest summit on the
S. side of the glacier-basin is the Botzer
(10,686'). From this extends to NW. a
ridge including several minor peaks, of
which that nearest the pass, called
Kbnig-^hof (about 10,370'), is easily
ascended from thence. 'On the opposite
side is the Sonklars'pitz (11,410') which
is concealed from the head of the glacier
b}' an intervening range of steep rocks
called Becher. The map of Messrs.
Barth and Pfaundler is undoubtedly
incorrect in respect to this portion of
the Stubay group ; and it is not easy to
reconcile with it the account of the pass
given by Dr. Ruthuer in the 4th ' Jahr-
buch' of the Austrian Alpine Club. It
may perhaps be doubted whether future
travellers starting from the Sulzenau
in Stubay may not find an easier and
more direct way by the Griinauferner
than by his route. The only informa-
tion respecting the descent from the
Konigshofer Joch into the Ridnaun-
thal by the Ueblethalferner is that
gleaned from the work of Messrs.
Barth and Pfaundler, who traversed it
late in tjae autumn. At that season it
was somewhat difficult, owing to nu-
merous and wide crevasses. They found
it expedient to keep throughout some-
what to the N. side of the glacier, twice
ROUTE I. — JAUFEX PASS.
191
If-aving the ice for slopes of debris at ■
the foot of projecting rocks. Farther |
east the glacier descends in an ice-fall,
and at a point called ' In Lochern ' it is
necessary to quit the ice on the 1. bank,
and descend by the rocks, till the lower
end of the glacier is attained below the
ice-fall. It is here so level and vmbroken
that it is locally CBMedEbncferfier, and a
person approaching from the E. would
not suppose that it was the outflow of
so vast a mass of ice and neve. On the
S. side a glacier-lake is formed in
summer by the stream descending from
a lateral glen, which finds the outlet
barred by the glacier. The lower end
of the Ebneferner is too steep to be
conveniently passable, and the traveller
leaves the ice for the last time by the
1. bank, and descends into the uppermost
end of the Eidnaujithal a short way
above the Ober-Agelsalp, where, in case
of need, he finds tolerable shelter for the
night. Some way lower down is a wider
and more level basin, where stand the
chalets of the Unter-Agelsalp, about
2 hrs. above Ridnaun. The Ridnaun-
thal is more fully noticed in Rte, Gr.
In taking the course above described,
the traveller who has crossed the first
pass leading from the head of the
Winacherthal to that of the Passeyer-
thal, and encounters unfavourable
weather on the following day, has the
advantage of being able to continue his
route by the easy pass between Schnee-
berg and the Lazzacherthal.
5. To Sterzing by Eatschinges. A
little above the point where the Gail-
bach issues from the Ridnaunthal into
the open basin below Sterzing, it receives
a considerable tributary torrent from the
Ratschingesthal, a narrow glen nearly i
parallel to Ridnaun, but less interesting
to the mountaineer, as it lies outside the
glacier region of these Alps. The easiest
and shortest way from Fend or Gurgl to
Sterzing is through that glen. Having
crossed the Timbler Joch, and ascended
from the head of the Passeyerthal to
Schneeberg (see above), an easy pass
leads thence to the head of the Rat-
schingesthal. For the greater part of its
length this is little more than a defile.
At the widest part stands the village of
Eatschinges. It is chiefly known for
quarries of highly crystalline white
marble, which would be more extensively
used if it were less difficult of access.
At its lower end the defile of the Rat-
schingesbachis so narrow that the path is
forced to mount to a great height above
the rt. bank, after which it descends to
the village of Gasteig, whence a char-
road leads in | hr. to Sterzing (Rte. A).
Route I.
STEEZING TO MEEAN BY THE JAtTEN
PASS.
I
Irs.' walking
E. miles
St. Leonhard
. 6
18
Meran
. 4
12
The mountaineer going from Inns-
bruck to Meran will naturally select
some of the routes through the Stubay
192
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 49. STUBAY DISTRICT.
or Oetztbal Alps described in the present
or the List section. The tourist -who
selects the easiest way between those
placos will prefer to follow the high-
road over the Brenner to Sterzing, and
thence take the beaten track over the
Jaufen Pass. This is a frequented mule-
path, easy enough on the east side ; but
the descent from the pass to St. Leon-
hard is so steep and rough for the first
1^ hr. that ladies and nervous persons
can scarcely be recommended to ride.
On leaving Sterzing the path crosses
the G-ailbach, and ascends to Gasteig
(Inn : fair), a village standing close to
the junction of a slender stream from
the Jaufenthal with the powerful torrent
which bears down the drainage of the
Eidnaunthal and Katschiugesthal. The
Jauftnthal is a short glen, without a
village, but it has a church and a small
group of houses which bear the same
name. A track runs thence due S.
across the ridge dividing this from Pens
in the Samthal (Ete. K). On reaching
the summit of the ridge at the head of
the Jaufenthal, the path descends a
little, but a further ascent is needed to
reach the summit of the pass. About ^
hr. before this is attained, the traveller
passes a solitary stone house, called
Jaufe7ihaus{6,o4:o'), intended as a refuge
for wayfarers. In case of need better
quarters may be found here than at a
similar refuge, bearing the same name,
which is found on the opposite side of
the pass.
The Jaufen Pass (6,872'), supposed to
derive its name from the Eoman designa-
tion, Mons Jovis, is reached in about
3^ hrs. from Sterzing. There is another
path about equally short, but less fre-
quented, which mounts from Grasteig
along the slopes on the S. side of the
Eatschingesthal, and joins the common
track near the Jaufenhaus. The descent
towards Passeyer appears very steep,
but no fatal accidents are recorded since
3, eerbxin bishop, who had accompanied
the Elector Louis of Bavaria on his way
to Meran, broke his neck here on his
way back to Germany. The way lies
nearly due E. along the precipitous slopes
on the X. side of the WalUnthal, a short
glen which joins the Passeyerthal at St.
Leonhard. On descending into the glen
the path passes the hamlet of Walttn,
where there is a poor inn. As the tra-
veller approaches St. Leonhard he passes
close to the ancient castle of Javfenhurg
now in ruins, except a portion inhabited
by a peasant. It commands a very fine
view of the Passeyerthal. 1\ hrs. from
the pass suffice to reach St. Leonhard ;
but as that village is lower than Sterzing
by 820 ft., 7 hrs. are allowed for the whole
distance when the pass is taken from this
side. The Passeyerthal, through wliich
lies the remainder of the way to Meran,
is described in ^ 48, Ete. B.
EOL-TE K.
BOTZEN TO STEIiZIXG, THROrGH THE
SABXT HA T,.
Hrs-
Eng.
walking
miles
Samthcin .
. . 4i
14
Pens .
. 4A
14
Sterzing .
. 5|
15
14^ 43
The district included, and almost en-
closed, between the two main branches
of the Adige contains, along with the
two high gi'oiips of the Oetzthal and
ROUTE K.-
193
Stiibay Alpp, a more POTithern group of
much lovver mountains. This is diviclKl
into tMo eoual portions l)y the Sarnfhal.
a valley originatino: in tlie mountains S. i
of Sterzing, and opening into the broad ;
valley of the Adige immediately N. of
Botzen. A glance at the map sliows i
that the most direct line between those •
towns lies through this valley, and over
one or other of the easy passes connect-
ing it with the upper valley of the Eis- '
ack. Though the scenery is not of a :
very high order, this course may be re- j
commended to the pedestrian who would j
avoid the heat and dust of the high road, j
In descending the valley the traveller ,
may avail himself of the new road called
Sarner Strasse. opened in ISo-i. by en-
gaging a vehicle from the village of
Sarnthein to Botzen ; but in ascending
it does not save much time. The road
keeps chiefly to the 1. bank of the Talfer-
hach. but there is also a footpath by the
rt. bank. The former is generally pre-
ferred. Leaving on the rt. hand the
road to Klobenstein. noticed in Rte. A,
the new road turns nearly due N. The
villages are for the most part perched
on the slopes of the mountains on either
hand, and many ancient castles, in
more or less ruinous condition, are seen
throughout the valley. About 1| hr.
from Botzen two tributary torrents fall
in opposite directions into the Talfer.
From the W. comes the Dornbach, above
which is seen the village oi Afiyig (3,383'),
and nearly opposite is the junction of the
Emmersbach. On the slope above it
stands
Wangen (3.468'). About | hr. farther
the road enters the remarkable defile
of the Marterloeh, passing under a
nearly vertical rock, crowned by a pil-
grimage church. Farther on (on the rt.
bank) is the mineral spring of Schorgan,
frenuented by the countrv* people ; the
road keeps to the opposite side until
close to the main village, and chief place
of the district,
Sarntheiji (Inns: beim Schweizer,
and several others), 3,164 ft. above
the sea. Since the opening of the new
road it is resorted to by the people of
c. T. (
Botzen during the Somrncrfris''}) season.
On the heights above the 1. Itank of the
stream opposite to the villair*^ are the
castles of Reineck and Kranzenstein,
and in the valley a more modern .resi-
dence belonging to Count 8arnthein.
As the mountains enclosing the valley
are easily accessible, there are many
paths leading in various directions, to
find which, as a general rule, it is ad-
visable to take a guide. One somewhat
frequented track leads westward in 5 or 6
hrs. over the Kreiiz Jock ( 6,04-o') to Me-
ran. In the opposite direction paths lead
to Klausen or to Kollman in the valley
of the Eisack. One of the most agree-
able expeditions is the ascent of ti>e
Sanier Srharte C8.2."Jo'), rising due W.
of the village. The panorama is much
the same as that from the Rittnerhorn
(Rte. A). From the top the traveller
may descend to Klausen, or else make
his way southward to Klobenstein and
Botzen.
The Sarnthal, after widening out
somewhat in the neighbourhood sf the
principal village, narrows again as tlie
tra*k runs northward along the 1. bank
to Asffcld, where the main stream of the
Talfer is formed by the junction of the
torrents issuing from the two uppermost
branches of the valley. The NE. branch,
or Diirnholzthal, is briefly noticed below:
the northern branch, called Pensertbal»
affords the most direct way to Sterzing.
The scenery of the P'nserthal is varied
and pleasing throughout the ascent to
"Weissenbach, where, about 3^ hrs. from
Sarnthein, the traveller finds a tolerable
country inn. Here the head of the val-
ley opens, into view somewhat N. of E.,
while a path mounts westward, and leads
in about 6 hrs. to St. Leonhard in the
Passeyerthal.
Nearly 1 hr. above Weissenbach is
Fens (4.781'\ the highest villasre in this
branch of the Sarnthal. It has a rough
atid poor, but clean, inn. Fi-om this
village a path runs due N. to the Jaufen-
thal (see last Etc."), and is possi[)ly the
shortest way to Sterzing. Another pass,
lying a little way farther E., leads to
Grasteig. Tl\e more frequented way is
104
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 50. ZILLFRTHAL DISTRICT.
by a track which follows the torrent to
the hamlet of Asten, and then turns
northward to ascend the Tenser Joch
(7,340'). On reaching the summit the
traveller overlooks a short and deep glen
■whose torrent joins the Eisack near !
Mauls. The path to Sterzing winds |
aiong the slopes on the N. and W. side |
of the glen, and finally turns northward j
over the shoulder of the mountain, and
descends to Stilfs on the rt. batik of the
Eisack, about 4 m. below Sterzing.
The Durnholzthal, the opening of
which was left on the rt. hand in ascend-
ing from Astfeld. is a very picturesque
glen, through which the traveller may
find an agreeable way from Sarnthein to
Brixen. About If hr. from Sarnthein he
leaves on his rt. hand the hamlet of
Jicinswald, where there is a decent inn,
and 1} hr. farther reaches
Durnholz (5,203'), where accommoda-
tion is found at the house of the priest.
Near this is a lake well stocked with
trout, whose dark blue waters are ima-
gined to be in connection with the la-
goons of Venice. A pleasant path leads
in b\ hrs. over the Schalderer Joch
(about 7.500') to Brixen, passing thr'
village of Schalders, with a rustic bath
establishment. Another way leads to
Klauson by the Lazfonser Joch. The
l.-itter pass is most easily reached from
Jieiuswald.
[There is a direct way from Pens to
Durnholz ''\\' the Durnhoher Joch
(7.i8(f'), which may be accomplished in
2| hrs. from one village to the other.]
SECTION .50.
ZlLLEliTHAL DISTRICT.
In the last two sections the portion of
the main chain of the Tyrol Alps lying
between the sources of the Adige and the
Brenner Pass have been described. It
was seen that this consists mainly of
two masses of crystalline rock — a loftier
and more extensive south-western mass
enclosing the head of the Oetzthal, and
a smaller and less elevated north-east-
ern mass sui-rounding the Stubaythal
and its tributary glens. It was re-
marked that the Brenner Pass, which
opens so deep a passage from the north
to the south side of the Alps, corresponds
rather to a dislocation than to a breach
in the continuity of the main range.
Taking into account the seneral disposi-
tion of the masses, and that of the main
valleys and minor ridges, the T}to1
Alps W. of the Brenner adhere to that
SW. to NE. direction which prevails
throughout the Western and Central
Alps. On the other hand, the inspec-
tion of any ordinary map suffices to
show that in Eastern Tyrol, and the re-
gion extending thence eastward to the
borders of Hungary, the ruling direction
of the ridges and valleys diverges little
from due W. to E. In the space imme-
diately E. of the Brenner, where the
two systems, if prolonged, would inter-
sect, we find interposed a lofty group
mainly composed of two nearly parallel
ridges that affect an intermediate direc-
tion from WSW. to ENE. The longer
! and more considt^rable of these is nearly
j continuous with the range of the High
I Tauern to the E., but both lie somewhat
I on one side of the axis of the western
I main range, and the Brenner Pass cor-
j responds to the dislocation thus caused,
j A-ery much as the Malo;a, the Spliigen,
! and the Simplon passes corrrspond to
j similar dislocatirms. The ridtros above
! spoken of enclose the pi'incipal branch
i of the Zillerthal, and they are chiefly
■ drained by torrents that send their
j w.-iters to the Inn through the. same val-
ZILLERTHAL DISTRICT.
[95
ley, which naturally gives its name to ;
this portion of the Tyrol Alps. I
The longer and loftier of the two j
ridges that enclose the Zillerthal extends j
westward close to the town of Sterzing,
and, with but trifling dislocations, forms
a continuous range from tlieuce to the
Arlscharte, a distance of 100 English
m.. measured along the nearly straight
axis of the chain. In this space there
is no pass falling below 8,000 ft., and
but very few that even approach that
limit, so that taking together the
main range of the Zillerthal with that
of the High Tauern, described in the
following sections, they form a far more
complete barrier between the North and
the South than any part of the Alpine i
chain of nearly equal extent. No engineer
has ever proposed to carry a carriage-
road over this part of the Alpine chain,
and in a space of 85 miles there is but
a single pass serviceable for beasts
of burden. One of the slight disloca-
tions above mentioned corresponds to
the junction of the ZillertJial range ex-
tending ENE. from Sterzing with the
High Tauern, the point of junction be-
ing the summit of the Dreiherrnspitz. :
Here is the Krimmlertauern Pass j
(9,071'), which forms the most natural
division between the district described ;
in this section and the High Tauern ;
range. Southward the Ahrenthal, and
northward the Krimmlerthal, form a :
well-marked boundary between this and ;
the district described in the next sec- i
tion. Elsewhere its limits are traced by ;
the valley of the Rienz to the S., by the
road of the Brenner to the W., and on
the N. side by the valley of the Inn be-
tween Innsbruck and the Zillerthal — by
the latter valley as far as the village of
Zt'll, and thence by the road over the
Grerlos Pass to Wald in Pinzgau. at the
junction of the Krimmler Ache with the
Salza.
The way from Bruneck to "Wald. by
the Ahrenthal and the Krimmlerthal,
is described in Rte. E. Vmt the valley of
the Rienz, between Brixen and Brun- .'
eck, is more conveniently described in i
the next section.
The portion of TjtoI included within
the limits above defined has until lately
been almost completely neglected, not
only by foreign tourists, but also by
Austrian mountaineers. Most of the
highest peaks remained, not only nnas-
cended, but unmeasured ; and in this
way it happened that five or six peaks
in succession have enjoyed the reputa-
tion of being the highest of the group.
It is mainly to Colonel von Sonklar,
whose name so constantly recurs in
connection with the main chain of the
Tyrol Alps, that we are indebted for
such accurate information as we now
possess. He has not indeed lavished
upon this district the amount of labo-
rious investigation which in the Oetzthal
and Tauern groiips have almost ex-
hausted the field of orographic enquiry',
but his papers upon this district in the
first and second volumes of the ' Jahr-
buch ' of the Austrian Alpine Club con-
tain the chief data requisite for a correct
knowledge of the two main ridges that
form the nucleus of this group.
The longer and more southerly of these
ridges, which we shall term the Ziller-
thal main range, is that which extends,
as already mentioned, from Sterzing to
the Krimmler Tauern— about 36 m. On
the S. side this range, through about
half its length, falls abruptly towards
the Ahrenthal, and sends out no lateral
ridgps of considerable height ; but on the
N. side the secondary ridges are of much
greater dimensions. Prom the ENE.
end of the range, near the Krimmler
Tauern, a very considerable mass, whose
mean height is little less than that of
the main chain, diverges to N. and NW.,
and other considerable secondary ridges
.are noticed in Rte. B. The highest
peaks in the main Zillerthal range,
reckoning from K. toW., are the Bauch-
kogel (10,661'). Hnllen~koiif (10,492'),
lAJfdspitz (11.108'), Schwarzenstein
(11.04:6'), the five Horn Spitzm. which
attain 10,842 ft., Thumerkamp (1 1.1 89'),
Bossruckspitz (10,881'), Mosdc (called
on the S. side Mbsdenock) (11,315'),
Weisszmtk{10,84:V)Mochfcilcr (1 1.535'),
Grn^esj^itz {II, Z93'), Grabqntz{10,0&d'),
lOG
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTHAL DISTRICT.
Wildkreuzspifz (10.271'), and lastly the
Ebengruhspitz (9 J63'). The last, with
the somewhat more northerly Kramer-
spitz (9,658'), are succeeded by the
much lower summit of the Trenserjoch,
which forms the western termination of
the main range close to Sterzing. The
highest of the above-named peaks (Hoch-
feiler and G-rasespitz) do not lie on the
watershed, but in a short lateral ridge
projecting northward from the "Weiss-
zinth. In the mountain mass extending
N. and NW. from the Krimmler Tauern
the principal summits are the Eeichen-
spitz (10,866'), &u;hprkopf (10,708'),
Wildaerlosspitz {10,771'), and Gamssjntz
(10.522').
The northern group of the Zillerthal
Alps is mainly formed by the so-called
Tuser range. This is nearly parallel
to the main range, but is directed more
nearly from XE. to SW., so that if pro-
longed, the axes of both would meet a
little W. of Sterzing. It is shorter, and
it« mean elevation is less than that of
the main range, but its highest peak
falls only a few ft. below the Hochfeiler:
Its chief summits, reckoning as before
from E. to W., are the Grunhcrqlcor
0.397'), Blffler {lQm7'\ RippenMpfe
(10,743'), Olpjercr Fuss-stein (11,451'),
Alpeiner-Feriierspiiz (11,11 3'), Sdgewand
(10,870') — not to be confounded with
the much lower Hoch Sage (9,365'), one
of the minor peaks of the main range.
Somewhat S. of the Sagewand is the
Hohcwand (10,780'), and to this succeeds
a series of lower summits (none of
which attain 10,000 ft.) till the Tuxer
range terminates towards the Eisack
between Grossensass and Sterzing in the
low summit of the Saunjoch (6,844').
The two principal ranges are united to- .
gether by a comparatively low transverse
ridge connecting the Hochfeiler with the
Hohewand. over which lies the pass of
the Pjitscher Jock (7,297').
An extensive mountain tract lies to
the N. of the Tuxer range, filling the
space between it and the Innthal with
ramifications that reach the Lower Zil-
lerthal. The summits of this range
fall for the most part considerably be-
low 10,000 ft. One of the most cjn-
spicuous is the Glungetzerspitz (8,756'),
near Innsbruck.
Till lately few of the higher summits
of the Zillerthal Alps had been ascended.
The Hochfeiler was reached for the first
time in 1865 by M. Grohmann. and the
{ Moseleinthe same year by Mr. Tuckett.
I The LofFelspitz was climbed in 1843 by
I M. Lipoid, and since that date by some
I German travellers, and by Dr. Erinton ;
: the Schwarzenstein has been attained by
I Dr. Ruthner; and in 1867 M. Grohmann
j climbed the Olperer Fus.->-stein. There
remain unascended, the Grasespitz, Ai-
peiner Eernerspitz, and Tliurnerkamp,
all exceeding 11,000 ft. in height. The
last appears difficult, but promises a very
fine panoramic view.
Good quarters are found at Zell and
Mayrhofen ir the main valley, but these
places lie too low for the taste of moun-
taineers. They will prefer the humbler
yet clean accommodation at Ginzling or
Lauersbach. Members of the Alpine
Club, able to speak German, may safely
venture to apply for hospitality at the
"Widura, or priest's house, even in places
where this is not accorded to all travel-
lers. Of course in such cases the tra-
veller should leave a suitable gratuity
with the housekeeper.
ROUTE A. — LOWER ZILLERTHAL.
19^
Route A.
INifSBBUCK TO LE>rD, BY THE ZILLER-
THAL AND PINZGAU.
Eng'. miles
Jenbach (by railway) . . . Ti^
Fiigen 5i
Zell 8"
Geiios mi
Wald lO-f
Mittersill 14
Lengdorf 7
Bruck 10
Taxenbach 7
Lend 5
lOOJ
This is a route frequented by tourists ;
and although the portion between Wald
in Pinzgau and Lend does not lie within
this district, it has appeared more con-
venient to describe it here rather than
refer the reader to another section.
The valley of the Inn between Inns-
bruck and Kufstein is described in § 43,
Rte. B. Travellers approaching the
Zillerthal usually leave the railway at
Jenbach; but pedestrians from the Kuf-
stein side may stop at BrLvle//_onie little acquaintance with
the nrrniiier- and c-usronis of its inhabit-
atiis. The people of this valley are
consulered throughout Tvrol as in a
spL'cial d 'gree ' racv of the soil.' The
artistic eleni'jnt is strong in their com-
posiiion. Tile valley has produced not
a few painters and sculptors. The love
of music and dancing is univeisai, anon opens into the Durh.^bodm, !
as the uppermost end of the G-erlos glen i
is locally called. There is here a large \
Klause, or woodcutter's dam, near the I
o^(^mngof the Wddfjerlo^thal. Throtigh |
this the mountaineer may ascend due S. i
to a little lake (Gerlos See), very finely |
situated in the midst of a circle of high I
peaks. The rough cart-track leading to
the Piuzgau, keeps a little N. of E.,
through the Diirlosboden to the pass —
Gerlos Sattel (4.717')) also called Pinz- i
gauer Hohe, about 1.^ hr. from G-erlos.
This deep depression, hnng in the axis '
of thp great line of valley that extends |
hence to Hieflau on the Enns, divides |
the Kitzbiihel (§ 44) from the Zillerthal }
Alps. The portion of that long trough j
forming the tipper valley of the Salza, \
and called Pinzgau, plays a part in the
orography of this district, similar to {
that of the Rhone valley in Switzerland,
running transversely to the natural flow
of the cb'ainage ot the main chain, with
this additional circumstance, that on
the N. side of the Pinzgau the low Thurn
Pass (4,371'), and the still deeper open-
ing at Zell am See (2.469'). left free
course for the outflow of the drainage in
that direction. The way lies nearly due
p].. atid in less than ^ hr. the traveller
reaches a rough-looking inn at Ronaeh
(4.346'), and following the course of the
infant Salza, that issues from a glen to
the N. (§ 44. Rte. D), he reaches in
about 2 hrs.' steady walking from the
pass, the village of Wald (3,044') in
Pinzgau. The road becomes practicable
for liijht carriages at Ronaeh, but no
vehicle is to be found there, nor is one
always available at AYald. Travelling
witli ladies, it is prudent to write be-
forehand to that place or to Krimml.
The great majority of travellers who
cross the Gerlos Pass make a slight
detoiu' to visit the waterfall of Krimml,
perhaps the finest in the Alps. Even
without that attraction, the scenery on
the way to Krimml (see Rte, E) is
much superior to that of the direct road
by Wald. and involves a detour of only
3 or 4 miles.
The high road along the N. side of
the Salza runs for many miles nearly
level. The most interesting spots on
the way are those where the lateral
valleys of tlie High Tauern open into
the Pinzgau. Two of the finest of these,
bearing down the clrain;ige of -the highest
peaks of the Gross Venediger group
{% 51. Rte. F), pour their torrents into
the Salza nearly at the same point. The
opening of both valleys is well seen
from a smith's forge, built up against a
huge erratic block, called the Teufelstein,
little mo^-e than a mile below Wald.
The legend connecting this block with
the ruined castles of Hieburg and Pried-
burg on the opposite slopes of the valley,
may be read in the third vol. of Schau-
bach. About 2^ m. from Wald is
Neitkirchn (2.987"), with a decent coun-
try inn (Bachmaier). and a very ancient
castle, still inhabited. The village
watchmaker is recommended as a guide.
Scarcely 2 ra. beyond Neukirchen is the
Weyerhof, an ancient house standing by
a picturesque tower, all that remains of
a ruined castle. The house is now con-
verted into a very fair country inn, de-
serving a visit for the sake of the wood-
carving still contained in some rooms.
The glrtss-p;nnted windows have been
removed to the museum at Salzburg.
The Weyerhof stands a little below the
opening of the HahacherthaL one of the
wildest glens of the Tauern Alps. In the
background the Schwarzkopf (10.425')
is seen risins; above the Habacher-kees,
after the two Sulzbacher glaciers, the
greate-st of those on this side of the
range i% 51, Rte. F).
About U ni. from AVeyerhof is the
neat village of Brambcrg (2.874') with an
old gothic church. After passing Bichl
the road crosses a torrent and reaches
Muhlbach (2,714'), about 8^ m. from
Wald. The torrent descends from the
MwMbnchthal. through which a path
leads to Kirchberg, near Kitzbiihel, over
the Stange, a pass lying close under *he
peak of the Rettenstein. Near Miihi-
bach on the S. side of the Salza are
200
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTHAL DLSTUICT.
furnaces for smelting copper, and vitriol-
works. About 1 ni. boyoiid Miihlbach j
the road descends to the Salza, then
crosses to the rt. bank, and in a few mi-
nutes more reaches Hollcrshach (2,783'),
at the opening of the Holltrsbacherthcd.
The mountaineer may find his way
through it to Windisch Matrei over a
difficult pass (§51, Rte. F). The road
now runs nearly straight for nearly 4 ni.
along the meadows that fill the floor of
the valley, and then turns to the 1. to
enter
Mittersill (2,622' Moll), the principal
place in Upper Pinzgau. Grrundtner's
Grasthaus, in the market-place, is the
Vjest inn. The large house kept by the
brewer (Eupp) is said to be ill managed.
The little town stands on both sides of
the Salza, and is united to the adjoining
village of Velben by a bridge over the
Velber Ache. Owing to the slight fall
of the ground throughout the long reach
V>elow Mittersill (about 60 ft. in 10 m.),
the neighbourhood is very subject to
inundations, and the inhabitants are
forced to keep boats in readiness in
order to cross the flooded meadows that
separate the hamlets and farndiouses.
Hence Mittersill is locally called the
' Venice of Pinzgau.' Save this serious
drawback,the position is very fine. Many
K)i the houses command views up and
down the main valley, extending fully
1.3 m. to the westward, and nearly twice
as far in the opposite direction. The
view is much finer from the old castle
on the slope to the N., about 600 ft.
above the town. This has been pub-
lished in panoramic form by Oberer, in
Salzburg. The road to Kitzbiihel is
described in § 44, Rte. C, and that to
Windisch Mata-ei in ^ 51, Rte. E.
The road from ^Mittersill keeps to the
N. side of the Salza through a dreary
swampy tract. Of late years, a more
intelligent system than that of merely
damming in the beds of the tributary
torrents has prevailed, and tlie sand and
gravel which they bring down has been
made to contribute to the solidification
of the swamps. The road passes a
monument that commemorates, not the
actions, but the good intentions of tho
Emperor Francis, Avho passed tiiis way
in 1832, and goes through Stuhlfelden ^
whence travellers sometimes ascend the
Malitz Koyl (7,333'), commanding a fine
view, not quite equal to that from the
Geisstein (§ 44, Rte. C). Some way
farther, the opening of the Stubachthal
is seen to the S., and in the background
a part of the fine range that encloses its
upper end, culminating in the peak
called by Sonklar Schneewinkel (1 1 ,580').
A pathway, chiefly supported on pine
branches, is carried across the marshes
to a wooden In-idge over the Salza that
leads to the Stubachthal.
The next place on the high road is
Uttendorf (2,669'). On the opposite
bank is Schwarzenbach, where there is
a neglected mineral warm spring, said ty a track that crosses a
bridge over the Ziller, and ascends di-
rectly to Finlccnhcrij ; but the traveller
who cares for grand scenery will make
a detour by the Karlssteg, and return
by an upper track along the "W. side of
the Zemm Grund. Then crossing the
spur of the mountain that divides the
Zemmbach from the Tuxerbach, he
reaches a slender wooden bridge, called
the Teufelssteg, 100 ft. above the latter
torrent, that carries him to its 1. bank.
From Finkenberg, the old path mounts
high above the 1. bank of the Tuxerbach,
which rushes through a deep cleft for a
distance of several miles ; but the slope
being subject in wet weather to land-
slips, a new track has been made along
the rt. bank, which is reached a short
way above Finkenberg. The views are
finer from the old track. A vast mass
of sand, clay, and gravel, the accumula-
tion of many landslips, being thoroiighly
impregnated with water, has formed a
sort of mud glacier, which remains fixed
in dry weather, but advances after rain
or thaw, and is sometimes actually dan-
gerous to traverse. In from 3^ to 4 hrs.
from Mayrhofen, the travellf-r reaches
Lanersbach, the chief of Yorder Tux,
as the lower part of the valley is locally
called. The village inn is said to afford
clean though rough quarters, with a
friendly reception. Up to this point the
way through the Tuxerthal has lain
about due W., along the N. side of the
GrilnbergJcor (9,397'). which forms the
NE. extremity of the Tuxer range.
Henceforward the Tuxerthal follows its
normal direction to SW., parallel to the
Zemm Grund and to both the principal
ranges of the Zillerthal Alps. The
higher peaks are concealed from La-
nersbach by a low projecting ridge, but
they soon come into view in ascending
to the head of the valley. The scenery
is throughout interesting, as the snowy
peaks are almost constantly in view.
The object which "will most attract at-
tention throughout the upper part of the
valley is the great glacier which bears
the appropriate name Gefrorne Wand,
Though surpassed in size by many others
in this group, and elsewhere in Tyrol,
this glacier is one of the most remark-
able for its extreme steepness and the
imposing effect of the shattered columns
and pinnacles of ice that seem to im-
pend over the head of the valley. The
most conspicuous of the higher siunmits
is the northern of the twin peaks that
form the E. boundary of the upper pla-
teau of the Gefrorne Wand — called the
Ri'ppenJtopfe. The northern peak, er-
roneously named Olperer by Souklar,
and Gefrorne-Wandspitz by Dr. Ruth-
ner, surpasses its neighbour by 27 ft.,,
and attains 10,743 ft. In about If hr.
from Lanersbach, the traveller reaches
Hinter Tux (4,839'), the highest
hamlet of the Tuxerthal. The inn of-
fers poor accommodation, and the land-
208
CKNTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTIIAL
lord is not famed for civility or atten-
tion. There is here a mineral bath,
somewhat frequented by the peasants
of the valley. Owing to the formidable
steepness of the G-efrorne "VVand, this is
not a favourable starting-point for the
ascent of the high peaks on the S. side,
but noble views might doubtless be ob-
tained from the mountains on the oppo-
site side of the valley, if the accommoda-
tion were such as to tempt travellers to
halt here. The path to the Tuxer Joch
mounts by the 1. bank of the main
branch of the torrent which issues from
several different points at the base of
the G-efrorne Wand, and crosses a small
triinitary torrent that forms a pretty
waterfall to the rt. A path moiTuts that
way to the Geier Joeh (noticed below),
or by a long circuit leads to the Tuxer
Joch. If the traveller should have a
little time to spare, it is worth while to
make a slight detour to the 1. to approach
the Gefrorne Wand, and for that pur-
pose should follow a path leading to the
Stock Alp, the highest sennhiitte in the
valley. It is easy to regain the regular
path higher up, and the near view of
the glacier well rewards the slight ex-
tra exertion. The latter part of the as-
cent is rather steep and stony, but the
track, which is much more frequented
than the Pfitscher Joch, is well marked,
and a guide is not required by any one
used to mountain walking. On reach-
ing a cross at the summit of this ascent,
the traveller must be careful not to fol-
low the track that leads at first straight
forward, but gradually bears to the rt.,
and finally returns to Hinter Tux by
the waterfall that was seen lower down.
The true way lies somewhat to the 1.,
keeping for about ^ m. nearly at a level,
till a second cross is reached which
marks the pass of the
Tuxer Joch (7,618'), dividing the ba-
sin of the Ziller from that of the Sill.
The path now descends to a herdsman's
hut, lying in a hollow, and after passing
it commences a steep and rather long
descent into the xippermost branch of
the Sohmirnthal, locally called Kaserer-
tkal. This wild glen is closed at its up-
per end by tlie Kascrcr Fcrncr, one of
the numerous glaciers that flow from the
vast snowfields th.it surround the 01-
pi-rer Fuss-stein, the highest peak of
the Tuxer range. It is possible to reach
the Zamser Hiitten (Rte. E) by way of
the KasererFerncr, and the upper neve
of the Gefrorne Wanfl, descending on the
E. side of the Olperer by the Schram-
ma Ferner. This must be a fine
glacier pass, and apparently does not
present any unusual difficulty. Though
it is the longest branch of the Schmirn-
thal, the Kasererthal is in truth a late-
ral glen which descends to NW. at rt.
angles to the SW. direction of the main
valley. This is reached at Ohcrn
(o, 065'), also called Kaseni, where, along
with a few scattered houses, there is a
mountain inn, which combines the
poorest accommodation with extortionate
charges. What may be considered as
the main branch of the Upper Schmirn-
thal mounts steeply to NE. from Ka-
sern, and leads to a pass called Gcier
Joch, by which Hinter Tux is reached
by a longer and less interesting route
than that of the Tuxer Joch.
Amid very agreeable scenery, the path
descends the Schmirnthal by a path
aboA'e the rt. bank of the torrent, pass-
ing opposite to a group of houses at the
opening of the Wildlahnerthal, through
which savage glen there is a good view
of the peak of the Olperer Fuss-stein.
These houses are sometimes designated
as Inner Schmirn, but incorrectly, as
that name is locally given to the entire
valley above the chief village of
Schmirn (4,042'). which is reached in
about 4^ hrs. from Hinter Tux. The
inn is uninviting, but mountaineers may
safely apply for hospitality to the parish
priest, who takes a lively interest in the
exploration of the neighbouring Alps.
The Olpircr Fu^s-stein (11,451'), the
highest of the Tuxer range, and the
second in height of the Zillerthaler Alps,
rises from the midst of the great snow-
fields that divide the Schmirnthal and
Falserthal from the Zamser Grund at
the head of the main branch of the Zil-
lerthal. There is a vazue tradition of
ROUTE C. SCHMIRN.
209
an ascent in the last century, but it
was effected with ease in 1867, from the
liead of the Zamser Grund, bj M. G-roh-
mann. In the 3rd vol. of the ' Jahrbuch'
of the Austrian Alpine Club, Dr. Kuth-
ner (who was accompanied by Felix
Hans ofSchmirn, recommended as a good
guide, and his brother Toni), recounts
an unsuccessful attempt to scale it.
There has been much confusion as to
the proper name of this fine peak. Dr.
Ruthner seems to have proved that the
highest point ought to be designated
Olperer, and that the name Fuss-stein,
applied bySouklarto the latter, belongs
more justly to a lower summit SW. of
the first, whose height is 11,030' ft. ac-
cording to Sonklar. The name Olperer
haviug been given by Sonklar to the
double summit of the Rippenkopfe, the
best way to avoid further confusion is
to call the greater mountain Olperer
Fuss-stein. The vast snoT\^elds that
encompass it send down glacier streams
into the surrounding valleys. To the
SW, the Alpcincr Fcrncr reaches the
head of the Falserthal ; the Wildlalmer
Ferner descends to the "Wildlahnerthal ;
the Kaserer Ferner to the Kasererthal,
and the Gefrorne Wand, sometimes
called Tuxer Eismeer. to the head of the
Tuxerthal. This is bounded on the E.
by the ridge of the Rippenkopfe, and the
glacier on the E. side of that ridge,
called Bippen Ferner, descends towards
the Zamser Grund below the Zamser
Hiitten. The neve of the Kaserer Ferner
and Gefrorne Wand does not reach the
actual base of the Olperer. for the ridge
forming the snowshed of the Wildlahner
Ferner subsides to the E. and SE., and
tlie snowfield that surrounds the peak
for nearly half its circuit feeds the
Schramma Ferner, the greatest of the
glaciers that descends to the Zamser
Grund. The S. face of the Olperer, seen
from the upper end of the Zamser Grund,
seems hopelessly inaccessible, and the
Js W. face, fronting the Wildlahnerthal,
presenting excessively steep snow- slopes,
liroken here and there by rocks, is so
forbidding that no attempt has yet been
made that way. A sharp arete, descend-
c. T.
ing first SE. and then ESE. from the
summit, and encompassed by the ne%'e
of the Schramma Ferner, seems to offer
a more hopeful prospect. The slope of
the arete is, however, broken by vertical
rocks which have formed the turning-
point in two attempts at an ascent.
Dr. Ruthner's guides led him by a very
circuitous course. From the slope on
the NE. side of the Wildlahnerthal
they ascended diagonally above the Wild-
lahner Ferner till they reached the ridge
that divides this from the snowfield
that is the common source of the Kaserer
Ferner and the Gefrorne Wand. Thence
crossing to the head of the basin drained
by the Schramma Ferner they rounded
the arete already mentioned, which is
accessible only at its SE. end. In re-
turning they took a shorter way, keep-
ing nearer to the peak of the Olperer,
and descended, through a very long and
steep couloir, a vertical height of more
than 1,500 ft. to reach the Wildlahner
Ferner. This is easily traversed along
the rt. (or NE.) side, the opposite por-
tion being much crevassed. The extreme
upper end of the Wildlahnerth?! is
locally known as Hinter Holle, and the
middle part, below the foot of the gla-
cier, as Yorder Holle. The couloir, or
Klamm, of the Hinter Holle, is practi-
cable only when the snow is moderately
soft, as otherwise it would cost hours of
step-cutting. A fine glacier pass may
be made from the Wildlahnerthal to the
head of the Falserthal by the Alpeiner
Ferner, or, -ndthout descending into that
valley, the traveller may reach the head
of the Zamser Grund near the Pfitscher
Joch by traversing the ridge (about
10,000' ?) between the Fuss-stein proper
(or SW. peak of the Olperer Fuss-stein)
and the Alpeiner-Fernerspitz (11,113').
The latter is the Schrammaeherspitz of
Sonklar.
The stranger visiting Schmirn is
strongly advised to mount to the little
pilgrimage church ' An der kalten Her-
berg,' g- hr. distant from the village, over-
looking from the W. side the junction of
the Wildlahnerthal with the main valley.
The descent from Schmirn to Staff-
210
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTHAL DISTRICT.
lacb, scarcely Hhr. distant, is through-
out very agreeable. A singular contrast
to the wild scenery through which the
traveller has passed since leaving Mayr-
hofen is presented by the railway via-
duct that crosses the ravine of the
Schmirn torrent just above its junction
with that issuing from the Falserthal at
the village of St. Jodok. Penetrating
the ridge behind that village that divides
Schmirn from Fals, the railway traverses
the Falserbach by a second viaduct, and
returns at a higher level to the valley of
the Sill. Less than 1 m. from St. Jodok
is Sfafflach (§ 49, Rte. A).
The Falserthal, which joins the
Schmirnthal at .'^t. Jodok, is a wild
Alpine glen, containing no villages. As
mentioned above, a fine pass may be
effected by the Alpeiner Ferner, which
closes its upper end, to the Wildlahner-
thal, and another pass leads by a branch
of the valley that opens to SE. below
the Alpeiner Glacier over the ridge
dividing this from Stein or St. Jakob in
the Pfitscherthal. There is also a
track passing over the ridge to the S.,
and then westward along the Vennabach
to the Brenner. (See § 49, Rte. A.)
Mr. J. Warner highly recommends a
pass connecting the Falserthal with the
head of the Zamser Grund. Starting
from StafBach with a young guide
named Anton Strichner, he reached ' a
very narrow depression S. of the Fuss-
stein' — apparently the same pass re-
feiTed to in the last page. ' The double
view of the ranges of the Stubayer and
Zillerthaler Alps is most splendid.'
The descent towards the Zamser Grund
is quite obvious.
EorTE D.
DTNSBRrCK TO MAYRHOFEN-, BY THE
TUXER GEBIRGE.
The mountain district lying XW. of
the Tuxerthal, and extending thence to
the Inn and the Sill, is sometimes col-
lectively called Tuxer Gebirge. It is
penetrated by many valleys, some of
which run westward towards the Bren-
ner road, the others northward towards
the Inn. Though bordered by two of
the most frequented highways in the
Alps, these valleys are amongst the most
unfrequented in the T}Tol. The people of
the Tuserthal, indeed, often pass by
the AVattenserthal or the Weerthal to
Schwaz or Hall, but the foot of a stranger
rarely treads the green pastures of these
upland glens For the sake of those
travellers who love the b;)-ways of the
Alps, we briefly notice the tracks that
may be taken by one who would avoid
the ordinary routes.
1. By the Navisthal. In ascending
from Innsbruck to the Brenner Pass
(§ 49, Ete. A), the opening of the Navis-
thal is seen on the 1. hand a little beyond
Matrey, and the church of St. Catharine
standing on a projecting rock on the site
of an ancient castle attracts for a mo-
ment the attention of the traveller. At
the hamlet of Navis, about H hr. from
the opening, the valley divides. Mount-
ing along the eastern branch, there is a
track passing by the S. side of the
Kreuzjoch (9, 060'), which either leads to
Kaserer at the head of the Schmirnthal,
or, by bearing to the 1., will enable the
traveller to reach Hinter Tux without
any considerable descent towards the
Schmirnthal. For the way thence to
Mayrhofen see last Ete.
The main branch of the Naristhal
mounts to NE. and then turns eastward
along the N. side of the Kreuzjoch, ter-
minating at the foot of the Geicrspitz
(or Schehruck of the maps). This is the
centre {Knotenpunkt) whence diverge
several ridges,withas many intermediate
valleys. On the W. and NW. side the
drainage runs to the Navisbach ; on the
N. and NE. to the Wattenserthal ; on
ROUTE D. rATSCHERKOFEL.
211
the E. to one of the lateral glens of the
Txixerthal ; and on the S W. to the head
of the Schmirnthal. There is a track
by the X. side of the Geierspitz that
descends into the head of the "Watten-
serthal, and thence, crossing a second
ridge, attains the glen of the Nasstuxer-
hach, -which joins the Txixerthal imme-
diately belovv Lanersbach. The moun-
taineer may possibly find a more agree-
able route by ascending the Geierspitz,
and descending thence to a little lake on
its E. side, -^vhich sends its torrent to
join the Tuxerbach, about halfway be-
tween Hinter Tux and Lanersbach.
The traveller wishing to reach the
Innthal fi-om Navis may choose between
two passes. The more direct leads nearly
due X. to the head of the Voldererthal ;
the other, a little longer, is reached by
following the main branch of the valley
nearly to its head, and then turning
northward. The pass leads to the SW.
branch of the Wattenserthal, locally
called Molsthal.
2. B_q the Muhlthal. The Milhlthal
is a short glen that joins the Sill, near
a -village of the same name, about 5 m.
below Matrey. It offers a very circuitous
route for reaching the Tuxerthal from
Innsbruck, but may well be taken in the
way by a traveller willing to devote two
or three days to the exploration of this
and the neighbouring valleys.
Erom the rly. station at Patsch the
distance to Muhlthal is about 2^ m.
Ascending for nearly 2 hrs.,the traveller
reaches the Vigaralp, where the Miihl-
thalbach forms a fine waterfall. The
head of the glen is a wild hollow, co-
vered with scattered blocks, in the midst
of which are five tarns that feed the tor-
rent. The pass of the Rosen Joch, on
the N. side of the lireuzjoch (not to be
confounded with the summit of the same
name and nearly equal height that di-
vides the t-n-o branches of the Navisthal),
leads to the head of the Voldererthal,
and the traveller wishing for good night-
quarters will descend tlirough that valley
to the Baths of Yolders, or to the village
on the main road of the Innthal. The
alternative is to cross the ridge dividing
p
I the head of the Voldererthal from the
j Molsthal, and halt for the night at Wal-
chen. (See below.)
I Most travellers, moderately favoured
! by weather, will prefer to the path
tbroxigh the Muhlthal the ascent of one
; or other of the summits on the N. side
I of that glen, and may combine this with
[ the track to Volders, The ridge di-viding
i the Milhlthal from the Inn has tliree
i summits. At the W. end nearest to
Innsbruck the Paffecherkofel, in the mid-
dle the Morgenkopf, and at the E. end
the Glungetzer. Of these the most fre-
q-uented is the Patsch rJwfd (7,368'), a
green summit, easy of access, conspicuous
in the neighbourhood of Innsbruck. The
usual coui'se, both for foreign and native
visitors, is to start from, and retiu-n to
that city, the excursion taking about 8
hrs., exclusive of halts. A carriage- road
goes as far as Lavs (Inn : Wilder Mann),
a village lying S. of Schloss Amras, at
the WNW. foot of the mountain. The
shorter and steeper way is by Sis-
trans; the easier and more frequented
path passes by the pilgrimage chapel,
'zum Heiligen ^Yasser' (3,994'), where
there is a fair counti-}' inn, for the benefit
of those who would reach the summit
for sunrise. The summit, reached in
little more than 2 hrs. from the inn, is
overlooked by many higher peaks to the
E. and SE. Yet its position is so favour-
able that the -view is, in some respects,
superior to that from the Glungetzer.
i The eye wanders along the Innthal, from
I Telfs to Schwaz, with the bold limestone
I ranges that bound it on the N. side,
over the greater part of the Lowfr
Wippthal, thi'ough which the locomotive
now drags its burden across the central
chain of the Alps, and ascending along
I the Stubaythal rests on the snow}' peaks
that enclose its upper branches.
An active mountaineer would probably
have no difficulty in reaching the peak
of the Glungetzer (8,781') by passing
along the connecting ridge over the sum-
mit of the Morgenkopf, but the mountain
is usually approached from the Yoldorer
Bad. In addition to the horizon of the
Patscherkofel, the x-iew include-s a great
2
212
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTHAL DLSTRICT.
part of the Zillerthal Alps and part of
tlu' High Tauern. On the E. side an
easy descent leads to the Schafferhiitte,
also known as Feld-Alm, above theYol-
dererthal, whence a good path leads to
the Baths mentioned below. A traveller
wishing to return to the Brenner road
should follow a SE. coiirse in descending
the mountain, so as to reach the Vol-
derertlial near its head, and thence,
crossing the pass that divides that valley
from Navis, he could descend in the
afternoon to 3Iatrey.
3. By the VoldercrthaL The second-
ary valley which opens to the S. atVol-
ders in the Innthal is referred to in § 43,
Kte. B, and repeatedly alluded to in con-
Bection with the valleys above described.
It does not afford a direct route from
Innsbruck to the Tuxerthal, but it is the
only one of the valleys of the district
here described that offers to the stranger
tolerably comfortable quarters. In en-
tering the valley at Volders the traveller
passes beneath two ancient castles. The
torrent has cut a deep channel, and the
path ascends rather steeply above the rt.
bank to attain the Volderer Bad, a mi-
neral spring, frequented in summer quite
as much for the oool and agreeable po-
sition as for its curative properties. As
already mentioned, the upper end of the
valley^is connected by passes of no difS-
ctilty with the Miihlthal, the Navisthal,
and'the MolsthaL or SW. branch of the
Wattenserthal. The most direct way to
the Tiixerthal and Mayrhofen is by Wal-
chen, at the junction of the two branches
of the Wattenserthal.
4. By the Wattrnserthal. From Wat-
tens, on the S. side of the Inn, near the
rly. station of Eritzens, the traveller may
enter the Wattenserthal, an upland glen
that penetrates deeply into the mass of
the Tuxer Gebirge, and offers a more
direct way for the pedestrian going from
Innsbruck to Lanersbach or ^layrhofen
than those above noticed, and is on that
account somewlmt frequented by the
Tuxerthal people. The distance from
Wattcns lO the uppermost end of the
valley, where it terminates at the NW.
base of the Geierspitz, is counted 6
hrs.' walk. About halfway the main
torrent of the valley, which preserves a
direction somewhat W. of N., is joined
by a tributary from the Mohthal, a la-
teral glen, connected bj passes with
Navis and the head of the Voldererthal.
At the junction is Walchen, where, along
with a few scnnhutten, there is a rough
mountain inn for the accommodation of
the Tuxerthal passengers. The highest
Alp in the main branch of the valley is
Lizum. A sinuous path, whose ultimate
direction is due W., leads thence to the
head of a glen called Xass Tux, whose
torrent joins the Tuxerbach, a short way
below Lanersbach.
5. By the Kolsassthal. The way
through the Wattenserthal is more di-
rect for a passenger boimd for Laners-
bach than that now noticed, but if MavT-
hofen be the traveller's destination,
he will do better to follow the course
of the Inn from Innsbruck to Weer.
I The village inn here is frequented by
I Zillerthal people, and a traveller may
I here seciu'e a guide on more reasonable
j terms than they usually exact. Weer
stands at the opening of the Kolsassthal
— sometimes called Wetrthal — whose
stream is said to contain gold-dust. Eor
a distance of about 4 hrs.' walk this
mounts about due SE. — the Gilfertsberg
(8,201') rising steeply on the NE. side.
At its upper end the valley bends to the
rt. towards its head, which lies some-
what W. of S. It is necessary to follow
this upper reach of the valley for a short
distance before beginning to ascend its
eastern slope to the pass leading to Mayr-
hofen through the Zldavthal. The path
follows the torrent through the latter
glen to its junction with the Ziller, ^m.
below Mayrhofen. If the traveller were
to cross the ridge on the E. side of the
Kolsassthal too near to the Grilfertsberg,
he would find himself at the head of the
Finsiiigthal, and following its torrent —
the Pankrazenbach — would be led to
Uderns, in the Lower Zillerthal, many
miles distant from 3Iayrhofen.
Eurther information as to the valleys
mentioned in this Rte. will be thank-
fully received.
ROUTE E. ZELL TO KRIMML.
213
EOUTE E.
ZELL TO BETIN-ECK, BY THE KEIMMLEE
TAUEEX.
Gerlos .
Krimml .
Kasern .
Steinhaus
Taufers .
Bruneck .
Hrs.'
Eng.
walking
miles
. S
m
H
. &
17
. 3h
10
. 3i
10
. 3
10
25|
67
Frequented footpath, rough between Krimml
and Kasern ; char-road fi'om St. Valentin to
Bruneck. The distances are reduced a little
below the usual estimate, but, in the \\Titer's
opinion, that between Krimml and Kasern is
Btill somewhat too great. The writer has
carried his own knapsack from St, Valentin,
nearly 1 hr. below Kasern, to Zell in l-5i hrs.,
exclusive of halts, reaching Krimml in Si hrs.'
steady, but not fast, walking, including some
delay by the way, and at the top.
The route here described, which lies
exactly along the eastern boundary of
the district included in this section, is
undoubtedly one of the most interesting
that can be chosen by a traveller, who
shuns glacier expeditions, for crossing
the main chain of the TjtoI Alps. Ex-
cept in xevy bad weather, the passage of
the Krimmler Tauern is quite free from
risk and difficulty, and in clear weather
it does not even require the assistance of
a local guide. There is no rock scenery
on the way so impressive as that in the
lower part of the Zemmthal, described
in Ete. B, but the scenery is throughout
very pleasing, and in some places beauti-
ful ; while on the way, without the trouble
of a detour, one of the finest, perhaps
the finest, waterfall in the Alps offers
an additional inducement. The distance
can be conveniently accomplished in 2|-
days, sleeping at Krimml and Stein-
haus, but is rather too much for 2 days,
even when taken from the S. side. The
track over the Krimmler Tauern was at
one time used for beasts of burden, and
there seems to be no reason why a lady
should not ride over it, dismounting in
the steeper places, if it were possible to
obtain a thoroughly reliable horse op
mule; but the writer has little confidence
in the fitness of the animals usually to
be found in Tyrol for rough, steep, and
slippery mountain-paths.
The way from Zell to the Durlosboden
is described in Ete. B. Soon after pass-
ing a signal that marks the boundary
between Tyrol and Salzburg, the traveller
ascending from G-erlos sees a finger-post
pointing to a track on the rt. hand that
leads to Krimml over the Pinzgauer
Platte (about 5,600'). As the name in-
dicates, this is a flat ridge, with here and
there a scattered tree, from whose eastern
verge the traveller gains a long vista
through the Pinzgau, with several peaks
of the Tauern range on the rt., and the
Kitzbiihel Alps to the 1., reminding him
of the view of the Ehone valley from
the Forclaz above Martigny. The path
is good and frequently passed by ladies
on horseback. The pedestrian rnay with
advantage make a slight detour to the
summit of the PlattcnJcogl (6,659'). This
is the green eminence seen on the rt.
hand forming the northern end of the
ridge dividing the Wilde G-erlos- from the
Krimmler- Thai. The way is to turn
from the regular track close to a senn-
hutte where passing travellers regale
themselves with milk and cream. The
mountain is perfectly easy, and in clear
weather even a novice will in 1 hr.,
very easy walking, reach the summit.
A wooden monument in somewhat di-
lapidated condition is designed to com-
214 CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTHAL DLSTRICT.
mcmorate the visit of the Archbishop
of ."Salzburg iu 1838. In addition to thf
view of the Pinzgau and Krimmlerthal,
he here gains several of the peaks and
ghiciers of the Reioheuspitz group, and
the noble pyramidal summit of the Drei-
herrnspitz shows to great advantage. In
descending, the regular track from Grerlos
to Krimral may be regained about 2 m.
from Krimml, so that the detour need
not cost much more than 1 hr. The
bridle-track descends the rather steep
slope towards Krimml in many windings,
through a wood composed of birch and
alder, and in little more than 3 hrs.
from Grerlos the traveller reaches
Krimml (3,584'), a prettily situated
village on the W. slope of the valley,
about 200 It. above the level of the tor-
rent. Kerschdorfer's inn, sometimes
overcrowded, supplies very fair accom-
modation. The charges for guides and
horses are high, except that for a guide
to the Falls. The best guide for mountain
ascents is Josef Hock (there is another
inferior Hock), and Matth, Poltiacher
second. Krimml is connected with "Wald
(about 4 m. distant) by a good road, so
that travellers bound for the Pinzgau
(Kte.B) lose little time by taking this way
if a vehicle be forthcoming; but as only
two or three are to be had here it is pru-
dent to write or send in advance to secure
one. The great object of attraction is the
Watfrfall of the Krimmler Ache. This
includes three separate falls, whose col-
lective height is 1,478 ft. In approach-
ing Krim7nl by the path from Gerlos,
they are all seen at the same time, which
is not the case from any spot near at
hand. The traveller who wishes without
loss of time to see all the falls from
the most favourable points of view does
well to take a guide. If bound for the
Krimmler Tauern, he may visit them on
the way with little loss of time, but if
intending to return to Krimml, he should
allow 2^ hrs. for the excursion, supposing
him to ascend to the summit of the up-
permost Ml. The track leading to the
Tauern — known as the Tauernweg — en-
ters the pine-forest which clothes the
slopes of the valley, and about f m.
from the village crosses to the rt. bank
of the Krimmler Ache. The increasing
roar of the waters, which is already
heard long before reaching Krimml, an-
nounces the near approach to the lower
fall. A guide-post ' zum Wasserfall'
indicates the path which in 3 or 4
minutes leads to it. To see it to perfec-
tion it is well to cross a wooden bridge
and approach as near to it on the 1. bank
as the clouds of dense spray will permit.
The mass of water, after springing over
the upper ledge, strikes a mass of pro-
jecting rock, and is shattered into m^-riads
of water-rockets. It is well to carrj- an
umbrella, for partial protection from the
spray, and those who fear a chill will
not linger long near the fall. Peturning
to the Tauernweg, which is paved "with
huge blocks of gneiss, the traveller
moimts through the forest, accompanied
by the hollow roar of the waters, now
rising, now falling, as he approaches or
recedes fiom the raging torrent. To get
a favourable view of the second requires
a considerable detour, and most persons
content themselves with looking down
upon it from the Jagersprung. At that
spot the Tauernweg approaches the verge
of the precipitous rocks above the tor-
rent, and is guarded by rough pine-stems,
to prevent cattle from falling over. The
name of the spot is derived from the
story of a hardly pressed poacher laden
with a chamois, who attempted to escape
his pursuers by a desperate leap, and
was lost in the gulf below. Looking over
the verge, the traveller descries little save
a whirl of spray and foam driven upward
by gusts of cold wind: of the roaring and
howling waters scarcely an^-thing is seen.
Over the wild scene, when the sun looks
down upon it, the rainbow hangs sus-
pended in a nearly complete circle. On
reaching a hut that stands on a narrow
shelf of level ground, the traveller sees
a path to the rt., and a2:ain leaves the
Tauernweg for a few minutes to visit
the uppermost fall, by far the most re-
markable, as its absolute height is about
700 ft. Taking into account its con-
siderable volume, which is maintained
in stimmer by the outflow of numerous
ROUTE E. — KRIMMLER TAUERN.
215
glaciers, this is certainly not surpassed
by any in Europe. It is advisable to
cross to the 1. bank by a wooden bridge
and clamber over the moss-grown blocks
tliat border the torrent at the foot of the
fall.
Eeturning to the main track, the travel-
er follows its windings that lead away
a-om the waterfall, and then after about
f hr. return to the rt. bauk just above
it. The softened roar of the waters,
and the never-ceasing cloud of spray
that hangs above the forest, mark its
position, and in the background is a
pleasing view of Krimml and its little
valley, enclosed on the N. side by the
range connecting the Thorhelm with the
Rettenstein. Passing through a narrow
but short defile — a sort of portal to the
upper valley — the track enters the upper
level of the Krimmlerthal, which offers
a singular contrast to the scenery just
left behind. For a distance of about
5 m. this upland glen stretches nearly
at a level between mountains of gentle
nearly uniform slope, while the peaceful
torrent meanders through the Alpine
meadows. Not much is seen of the
higher peaks on either side. The most
conspicuous is the Huttelflialspitz {9.7 0-i')
— corruptl}"- Hinthalspitz— one of the
highest points in the range dividing
Krimml from Sulzbach. The geologist
will remark the vast amount of debris
excavated by torrents from the crystal-
line slates that constitute the prevailing
rock in this valley. Sonklar has called
attention to a steep pile of debris, about
1,000 ft. in height, brought down by a
single small torrent from the last-men-
tioned mountain. It overhangs the E.
side of the valley a little way above the
highest waterfall. In about 3^ lirs. the
traveller ascending from Krimml reaches
the Tauernhaus (5,235'), standing be-
side a group of sennhiltten, a mere hut
often filled at night bypassing peasants.
It is a most undesirable stopping-place
for the night, but a pleasant spot for a
halt to hmch. From the opposite or
western side, the Rcdnbach torrent de-
scends from the Rtkhenspitz (10,866'),
and forms a very picturesque waterfall,
reached from hence in rather more than
1 hr. The imaginary Zillerspitz, said
to be 19 ft. higher than the Reichenspitz,
and placed S. of the latter at the source
of the Rainbach, is one of the many
blunders of the Austrian Kataster.
For about ^ hr. the Tauernweg as-
cends gently along the rt. bank of the
main torrent to the Unlass Alp (5,589'),
where the Windbach from the WSW.
joins the Krimmler Ache. Here the
great peaks that enclose the head of the
Krimralthal, which for some time have
been coming into view, form a curve,
concave to NW., extending E. and NE.
from the
Bt'cihcrrnspitz (11,494'), through the
Simonys'pitz (11,180'), to the Hmter-
Maurerkopf (10,701'), and thence
northward to the Schliefer spitz (about
10,580'?). In the centre the Krimml
Glacier, also known as Prcttaucr-
glctbcher, descends into the head of the
valley after receiving several tributary
ice-streams. It is extremely steep and
much crevassed. The writer is not
aware that any serious attempt has
been made to reach Pregratten in the
Virgenthal (§51, Rte. G.) over the ridge
that divides the Krimml- from the
Maurer-gletscher. On the N. side flank
of the Dreiherrnspitz hangs tlie Purlox-
gletscher, a rather large glacier of the
second order, which does not descend to
the level of the valley. West of this is
a relatively deep gap in the transverse
ridge connecting the Dreiherrnspitz with
the Fcldspitz (9,637') in the main range
of the Zillerthal Alps. This gap is
called Birnlilcke. Its height, according
to the Kataster, is 9,018 ft., but is
given as only 8,491 ft. on the far more
reliable axithority of Sonklar, who has
fixed on this as the dividing-point be-
tween the ranges of the High Taiiern
and Zillerthal Alps, Considering that
it is in some degree an arbitrary matter
to fix the precise point in the connect-
ing ridge that shall separate adjoining
mountain groups, and the fact that the
ridge in question is apparently impas-
sable at the Birnliicke, the writer has
adhered to the Krimmler Tauern pass
216
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 50.
ZILLERTHAL DISTRICT.
as the most eligible boundary. The
way to it turus to the rt. from the
Unlass Alp, and mounts through the
lateral glen of the Windbach, command-
ing at first very fine views of the above-
named peaks and glaciers. Trees gra-
dually disappear, and the slopes are
more and more covered with scattered
blocks. The stems of the creeping pine
(P. mughus) writhe over the rocky slope,
alternating witli the rhododendron, and
the last cembra pine-stems are seen
beside the highest sennh'utte. From
the upper end of the Windbachthal a
steep asjcent of 1 hr. leads to the summit
of the
Krimmlcr Tauern (9,071')- ^^ the
autumn the snow-slope on the N. side
is of slender dimensions, and as it is by
no means steep, it opposes no serious
diiSculty at any time. A few posts
help the solitary traveller to find his
way when the clouds lie low. The
ancient mule-path, which lay farther
west, over what is now called the Alte
Tauern, was abandoned, owing to the
formation of a small glacier on that
part of the ridge. The present pass is
but a slight depression in the transverse
ridge spoken of above, which forms the
natural link between the Zillerthal and
High Tauern Alps. The view towards
the S. is extremely interesting. The
SW. prolongation of the Tauern range,
which on one side bounds the upper
Ahrenthal, is spread out before the
traveller, rivalling in height, and in the
extent of its glaciers, the opposite range
of the Zillerthaler Alps.
Commencing with the Dreiherrnspitz,
the chief peaks are the Bosshuf
(11,483'?), Virgcljoch{lO,%l^'),Eodts2>iiz
(11,459'), or Weletz, Gross Glockhaus
(10,546'), Affenthalspitz (10,103'), Hir-
banock (9,854'), and Grvss Limbeck
(10,325'), terminating in the Oher Stein-
erholm (8,040'), above Luttach. A
great part of the Upper Ahrenthal is
also seen from the pass and during the
descent. The slope on the S. side is
steeper and more continuous than on
the Krimml side, but the track is tole-
rably well marked, and quite free from
' difficulty. About 2 hrs. suffice for the
descent to Kasern (5,181'), the first in-
habited place in the Ahrenthal, through
\ which lies the remainder of the way to •
( Bruneck. This is one of the most con-
' siderable lateral valleys in Tyrol, being
fully 30 m. in length, and containing
many populous villages. From its head
j to Luttach, a distance of 18 m., it de-
' scends from ENE. to WSW. parallel to
the main range of the Zillerthal Alps
; and the western extremity of the Tauern
' chain ; but below Luttach its torrent
! flows SSE. through an opening between
: the latter and the Miihlwalder range to
the W. Entering a much wider channel
! at Taufers, and receiving two conside-
i rable affluents, the stream descends
nearly due S. to Bruneck. The in-
convenient Tyrolese custom of applying
different names to different portions of
the same valley holds here. The upper
portion, as far as the defile above St.
Peter, is called Frettau, the middle
part alone — from St. Peter to Luttach —
is locally known as Ahrenthal, and the
lower part from Luttach to Bruneck en
is known as Tauferen-thal. The name
Ahrenthal is here used to designate the
entire valley, as being the most widely
known, and that adopted in the best
maps.
j The inn at Kasern was formerly a
mere Tauernhaus, and certainly inferior
to the humble inn at St. Valentin, but
the writer is informed that the former
is now to be preferred. Anton Abner,
of Kasern, is said to be a competent
guide. The traveller who has started
in good time from Krimml may well
pxish on to Steinhaus. A little above
Kasern is the ancient chui'ch of Heiligen
Geist, perched upon a rock, to avoid
avalanches. To encourage travellers,
it is announced that the cemetery here
is for the benefit of those who perish in
crossing the Tauern. In the adjoining
mountain is a mine, producing copper
ore of excellent quality. The entrance
to the shafts is in the little glen (called
Eodtthal) opposite Kasern. In the
Rodtthal is a considerable peat-bog,
, more than 6,000 ft. above the sea.
ROUTE E. — AIIRKXTHAL.
217
producing much fuel for the miners.
A descent of ^ hr. takes the traveller
from Kasern to
Si. ValentiJi (4,581'), the highest vil-
lage in. Prettau, a naturally poor spot,
but kept in some relative prosperity by
the adjoining mines. Here begins the
road, though narrow, tolerably well
kept ; but the chance of finding a vehicle
anywhere above Steinhaus is uncertain.
Instead of following the main valley, the
traveller may cross the Bretterscharte
(§ 51, Ete. 31), and so reach Taufers
through the Rainthal. There is scarcely
a hovise on the way between St. Valentin
and the next village. The road enters a
narrow defile forming the lower limit of
Prettau, on issuing from which it reaches
St. Peter (3,939'), about 3 m. from
St. Valentin. A guide named Anton
Eauchenbichler is to be heard of here.
The church is conspicuous from a dis-
tance, on a lofty rock. Descending
gently, for rather more than 3 m.,
through the open valley, which here
shows no striking featiu'es, the traveller
reaches
St. Jakob (3,929'). The way from
this village to Zell over the Horndl
Pass, is noticed in the next Ete. The
Hirbanock (9,854'), a summit com-
manding a very fine panoramic view,
and rising SE. of St. Jakob, may pro-
bably be reached from this side (see
§ 51, Ete. M). The still higher peak of
the G-ross Diirreck (10,325') is also
•within reach, but no notice of the ascent
has reached the writer. Paul Kaiser
and Michael Oberhollenzer of St. Jakob
are recommended as guides. About 2
m. lower down the Ahrenthal is
Steinhaus (3,454'), with an inn, said
to be the best in the valley, which
affords a convenient stopping-place on
the way from Krimml to Bruneck. It
would also serve as a starting-point for
exploring expeditions among the high
peaks that enclose the valley. A pass —
said to be difficult — may be effected from
hence to the Stillup Grund (Ete. B), by
the Keilbach Gletscher, on theE. side of
the Keilbachspitz (10,169'). By that
way Mayrhofen may be reached in 10^
hrs., exclusive of halts. Continuing his
journey along the main valley, the tra-
veller, in J hr. from Steinhaus, reaches
St. Johaim (3,329'), and about 1 m.
farther St. Martin (3,263'), the prin-
cipal church of the upper valley. A
little farther, on the opposite, or NE.,
side of the valley, the smelting-works of
Arzbach, where the copper ore from the
mines is reduced, are conspicuous. Up
to this point the valley has been nearly
straight, and for many miles has pre-
served an uniform gentle slope. The
road, which below St. Peter keeps con-
stantly to the rt. bank, has traversed
numerous torrents that descend through
short steep glens from the main range
of the Zillerthal Alps. Some of these
no doubt lead to practicable passes over
that range, that remain to be explored
by competent mountaineers. Now the
1 torrent of the valley {Ahrenbach). swollen
: by the contributions of many tributaries,
j bends rapidly to the 1., and soon flows
through a defile that leads SSE., at rt.
angles to its previoiis coiu'se. Just
beyond the turn of the valley, the road,
after passing the Weissenbach, reaches
Luttach (3,140'), a prosperous village,
with an inn in a large stone house. [The
traveller may here diverge from the
direct way and make an interesting
detour by the glen of the Weissenbach,
which descends from the W. into the
valley just above the village. It con-
tains the small village of Weissenbach
(4,312'), with the very ancient church
of St. Jakob, well deserving a visit for
its early German architecture, and the
remarkable stone carving of the altar.
Above the village the glen divides, and
both branches doubtless deserve to be
explored. The eastern branch originates
on the E. side of the Thurnerkamp,
while the torrent of the western branch
apparently springs from a glacier on
the ridge connecting that peak with the
Mosele. Instead of returning to Luttach,
the traveller may traverse the LapfU'
cher Jock (7,763'), between Weissenbach
and Lappach, or choose the somewhat
easier pass of the Miihlwalder Joch
{1,1QT) leading to Miihlwald (Ete. G).]
218
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 50. ZILLERTHAL DISTRICT.
Below Luttach the valley is narrowed
to a dotile which separates the upper
valley from the lower portion, locally
called Taufererthal, The scenery is
very picturesque for a distance of about
3 m., when the road, passing under the
ancient castle, enters the basin of Tau-
fcrs. This lies in the intersection with
the main valley of a transverse that
crosses it neai'ly at rt. angles. To the
ENE. is the Eainthal (§ 51, Ete. M),
parallel to the upper Ahrenthal, and in
the opposite direction the Miihlwalder-
thal (further noticed in Rte. G). Five
villages or hamlets lie near together in
thissmilingbasin: Sand,Tai/fers(2,SSo'),
a.ndJMi(hlen on the rt, bank, Moritzeii and
Kematcn on the 1. bank— all but the
last belonging to the commune of Tau-
fers. There are several inns, the best
of which is said to be at Sand. On the
8. side of the Eainbach, close to its
junction with the Ahrenbach, is Winkd,
where there is a little-frequented mine-
ral spring with a decent inn. The most
striking object at Taufers is the Burg,
or ancient castle, built on the steep slope
E. of the narrow defile leading to Lut-
tach. Its grey towers and machicolated
walls extending for a considerable dis-
tance above the base of the hill, and
backed by the sno'ny summits of the
Mostnock range, form a striking picture.
The lords of this castle, who, by means
of a wall and gateway, literally held the
keys of the Ahrenthal, were people of
note in the 12th and 13th centuries.
Since the old line died out the strong-
hold has passed through many hands.
It is still partly habitable. Besides the
castle, there are several curious old
houses in this part of the Taufererthal
which at one time or other have been
the seat, of noble families. The church
of St. Catharine at Miihlen is the most
ancient in the Taufererthal. Its organ
is in local repute. About 3 m. S. of
Miihlen is
UttcJiheim, with a picturesque old
castle on a rock, less extensive but still
more ancient than that of Taufers. It
is reached by a very steep path, partly
by steps cut in the rock. Nearly 3 m.
farther the road passes opposite to Gais
(2,732'), a village on the 1, bank of the
Ahrenbach. Here the geologist will
observe one of the most striking ex-
amples of the vast extent of the masses
of transported matter brought down by
the torrents in this district. Gais stands
at the junction of the ]Miihlbaeh, an
unimportant torrent issuing from the
Miihlbacherthal which drains a small
part of the Alps above Antholz (§ 51,
Ete. L). The mass of transported mat-
ter brought down into the main valley,
and not washed downwards by the
Ahrenbach, forms a hill about 600 ft.
! in height, and covers a space not much
1 less than a square mile. The charming
scenery of the Taufererthal has perhaps
gained in interest and variety by the
insertion of these green promontories
that almost bar across the main valley
and make it resemble a succession of
separate basins. The last place in the
valley of any note is St. Georgen (2,710'),
less than 2 m, from
Bnmeck (§ 51, Ete. A).
EOVTE P.
ZELL TO THE AHRENTHAX, BY THE ZTLLEE-
GETJXD, OR SONDEEGEtrXD.
The tracks leading from Zell to the
Brenner road through the western
branches of the Zillerthal have been
noticed in Etes, B and C, and in the
last Ete. is described the course ordi-
ROUTE F. — KORSCIIAMTE PASS.
219
Tiarily taken by travellers bound for the
Ahrentlial. A much more direct way to
the upper part of the same valley may
be found by crossing one or other of
the passes that are connected with the
eastern branch of the valley of the Zil-
ler. which for about 10 m. preserves the
name Zillerthal. This tract is some-
times called Ziller Grund, but that name
properly belongs only to the uppermost
eastern branch of the Upper Zillerthal.
It is not likely that this course will
];e generally preferred to the way by
Ivrimml, with its deservedJy famous
waterfall, but it may sometimes be con-
venient to a traveller pressed for time,
or for one who wishes merely to make
an excursion from Zell, going one way
and returning the other. If the latter
be the object in view, it will be best to
go from Zell by Ivrimml, sleeping on
the second night either at St. Peter or
Steinhaus. In approaching the passes
mentioned below from theN. side, he may
sleep at Mayrhofen, but rough quarters
for the night may be found at Haisling.
1 . By the ITorndl Pass. 1 1 hrs. from
jMayrhofen to St. Jakob. As mentioned
in Rte. B, the junction of the Ziller with
theZemmbach is but a few minutes' walk
from Mayrhofen. The stream of the
Ziller is here used to drive a garnet
mill — one of the largest of the many in
this neighbourhood. Garnets are ex-
ceedingly common in the mica schist of
both branches of the valley, and the
preliminary process of cleansing the
stones from their outer crust and roughly
rounding them is performed here, Tliey
are then sent to Bohemia to be polished
and set in ornaments that pass under
the name of Vienna jewellery. The
lower end of the upper valley into
which the traveller now enters is con-
tracted, and the path mounts steeply
above the rt. bank of the torrent till it
attains the upper level, which stretches
upwards with an uniform and moderate
slopie for several miles. Urcvidherg and
Haidiiig (poor inn), the highest villages,
arc left on the slope of the mountain to
the 1. hand, and the track follows the
stream till, about 3 hrs. from Mayrhofen,
it crosses a wooden bridge at the base
of an eastern buttress of the Ahornspitz.
Eather more than 1 hr. above the bridge,
the traveller, following the track by the
1. bank, reaches the junction of the two
torrents that form the Ziller. The E.
branch flows from the Ziller Griind — the
S. branch from the Sonder Grund.
Through the latter lies the way to the
Horndl Pass (8,366')- Though steep and
rough, the path is pretty v/ell marked, as
this pass is that usually taken by the Zil-
lerthal people bound for the Ahrenthal,
or Bruneck, and in fine weather a guide
may not be absolutely necessary. At
the junction of the torrents is a hut,
* In der Au.' originally intended for shel-
ter for chamois-hunters. Thence to the
summit, erroneously reported to be
covered by a small glacier, is reckoned
as a walk of 4 hrs. Though consider-
ably lower than the Krimmler Tauern,
this is better situated for a view of the
Vv'estern Tauern range from the Drei-
herrnspitz to the Gross Diirreck. The
steep descent to St. Jakob in Prettau
may be easily effected in 3 hrs. The
proper charge for a guide between
Mayrhofen and St. Jakob is 4 fl., but
the Zillerthal guides often ask more.
For the road to Bruneck see last Ete.
2. By the Kmscharte. This pass
leads either to St. Peter or St. Valentin,
at the upper end of the Ahrenthal.
Though scarcely longer than the last,
it is said to be a rougher and steeper
Avay, and it will be prudent to allow
\ hr. longer time — IH hrs., exclusive
of halts, from ^lap'hofen to either of the
above-named villages. Being very rarely
used, it should not be attempted without
a guide.
For rather more than ^ hr. the tra-
veller follows the path that runs east-
ward from the hut ' In der Au ' through
the Ziller Grund. A narrow stony glen
called Hundskehle then opens to the rt.
hand, and the path, leaving the Ziller
Grund, moimts due S. It must be noted
that the name Hundskehle is also given
to a high peak rising due N. of the en-
trance to the glen, and the same name
is also, but incorrectly, applied to the
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
220
pass. This lies over a depression Jn
the Korscharte (8,451' Soaklarj on the
W. side of the Rauchkofd (10,661').
The way is extremely rough, lying over
huge loose masses of stone that cover
the slopes at the head of the glen. Fur-
ther information is much desired.
3. B>^ the Heiligengeist Jochl. 12 hrs.
fi'om Mayrhofen to Kasern. The finest
scenery of this branch of the Zillerthal
is found at the upper end of the Ziller
Grund, which comes to an end nearly
2 hrs. above the opening of the Hund-
skehl, in the centre of an amphitheatre of
snowy peaks. Though the fact is denied
in the new edition of Schaubach, there
is an easy pass leading in 6 hrs. from
the Kiichelmoosalp, at the head of the
Ziller Grrund, to Kasern. It is called
Heiligengeist Jochl, and, being more
circuitous than the passes above named,
is little used. The summit (8,309'
Sonklar) is marked by a cross. Dr.
Euthner gives the height at 9,676 ft. —
probably on the unreliable authority of
the Kataster.
It will not be forgotten that there is
a way from Mayrhofen to St. Jakob,
even more direct than tiiat of the
Horndl, bv the Keilbaeh Joch at the
head of the StiUup Grund (Ete. B). The
objection to that way for a traveller
starting from ilayrhofen is the fact that
it would be impossible to reach the neve
before a comparatively late hour.
50. ZILLF.RTKAL DISTRICT.
EoUTE G.
TAUFERS TO GIXZLIKG, BY THE ilUHh-
WALDEETHAi.
A glacier pass, fit only for practised moun-
taineera.
The Miihlwaldertkc/l enters the basin
of Taufers (Ete. E) immediately oppo-
site to the Eainthal, and its lower por-
tion, about 5 m. in length, is e-\ndently
the western continuation of the trougli
marked by the latter valley, running
parallel to the main ranges of the
neighbouring Alps. It is interesting to
the mountaineer, as it originates on the
S. side of the highest peaks of the Zil-
lerthal Alps, and offers what must be a
very fine glacier pass to the Zamser
Grund, through the Schlegeisenthal, with
the alternative of making the ascent of
the Mosele, and descending thence into
the same glen. The scenery of the val-
ley is so fine that an excursion to its
head will well reward those who do not
attempt glacier expeditions. They may
return to the Ahrenthal by Weiss-
enbach (Ete. E), or reach Pfunders (Ete.
H) by a pass mentioned below.
At the opening of the valley at Miih-
len, the track, passable for country ve-
hicles, mounts rather steeply by the 1.
bank of the torrent, and then for another
hr. along the nearly level troiigh of the
vaUey to Muhlvjcdd (3,731'), a village
scattered over the green floor of the val-
ley. The modern ch\irch stands on an
eminence. Here the valley again nar-
rows and begins to bend gradually to
the rt. The path, no longer passable for
carts, ascends through the defile, keep-
ing still to the 1. bank, and after about
\^ hr., assumes the NXW. direction,
which it maintains up to the base of the
Mosele. Before long the valley opens a
little, and here stands
Lappach (4,634'), the highest village,
with an inn and a good guide named
Einspacher. No information has reached
the writer respecting the direct route to
Ginzling. The pass — called by Sonklar
Ewis Sattel (9,808')— lies between the
W. peak of the Mosele and the E.
summit of the Ewis (1{!,228';. W. of
ROUTE IT. PFUNDERERTHAL.
221
the latter is the hip;hest summit of the
Ewis (10,-il)8'). From Lappach Mr.
Tuckett ascended tlie Mosele (1 1,315') —
here called Mciselenock— by one of the
two glaciers, called Mosele Ferner, at the
head of the valley. Two summits are
visible from this side, but the eastern
peak is tlie higher by about 200 ft. This
was reached from the saitd between it
and the Thurnerkamp. The descent on
the opposite side was much more diffi-
cult. Keeping at first N., and then NW.,
Mr. T. aud his companions reached in
2 hrs. the nere of the Furtsckldgel
Glacier, and in 1 j hr. more quitted this
by its rt. bank. Following the torrent
from the g'acier through a short tribu-
tary glen into the Schlegeisenthal, they
reached Grinzling (Rte. B) on the same
evening in lof hrs., exclusive of halts,
from Lappach.
As mentioned in Rte. E, there is an
easy way from Lappach to the Ahren-
thal over the Lapparhcr Jock (7,763'),
and along the Weissenbach torrent,
which joins the Ahrenbach just abov
Further information is desired as to
the passes mentioned in this Rte.
Route H.
st. jakob in pfitsch to the pusteethai,,
by the pfundereethai..
The range of the Grubachkamm, men-
tioned in the last Rte., running parallel
to theMiihlwalderthal, follows a SSE.
direction from the Napfspitz to the
Kremspitz (9,354'), and thence extends
nearly due E. to the BlanJccnstdn
(7,991') above Uttenheim in the Tau-
Luttach— reached in 5 hrs. from Lap- j fererthal. The lower portion of the
pach. By a slight detour the traveller | range divides the lower Miihlwalderthal
may reach the summit of the Bingel-
stein (8,363'), on the S. side of the pass.
It commands a tine view of the Ziller-
thal Alps. In the opposite direction he
may reach Pfunders (Rte. H) over the
Eiegler Joch (7,987'), also called Zesen
Joch, in about 4^ hrs. from Lappach.
A rather longer way, through finer
scenery, is over the Basner Joch (8,407').
The track enters the Miihlwalderthal
about 10 min. below the church at Lap-
pach.
The range enclosing the Miihlwalder-
thal on the W. and S. sides — called by
Sonklar the Grubachkamm — diverges
from the main Zillerthal range on the
S. side of the Weisszinth (10,841'). Be-
tween its highest northern peak — Napf-
spitz (9,465') — and the Weisszinth is a
comparatively deep cleft in the ridge
known
and by that way a pass that promises
fine scenerv may be made from the head
of " ~ " ■^" " "
Pfundererthal,
from the Pusterthal, the upper portion
separates the upper Miihlwalderthal
from the parallel valley of Pfunders
•which joins the Pusterthal at Nieder-
vintl (§ 51, Rte. A). Like the Miihl-
walderthal, the Pfundererthal originates
in the main range of the Zillerthal Alps.
Its torrent springs from the snows of the
Hochsdge (9,365'), and receives several
tributaries that drain the glaciers on the
S. side of the range connecting that
summit with the Weisszinth. A travel-
ler who, after passing the Pfitscher Joch
(Rte. B) from Zell, wishes to take a di-
rect route to the Pusterthal, may well
select this as the easiest and shortest
way. Pfunders may also be taken on
the way from the Ahrenthal by a moun-
taineer wishing to avoid the lower val-
leys, who would take Weissenbach, Lap-
as the £i66mc/-^r ^A^e^ (8,350'), j pach, and Pfunders on his way to St.
Jakob in Pfitsch.
Starting from St. Jakob, the traveller
the Miihlwalderthal to that of the ' has a choice between two passes ; the
-J .K_i rather more direct, but less fre-
222
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 50.
ZILLEKTHAL DISTRICT.
quented. steeper and rather higher, lies
on the E. sido of the IToeli Siiire, and is
approached by way of Stein. The sum-
mit is 8,698 ft. above the sea. On the
S. side it is necessary to follow a SW.
course until the main torrent at the
head of the Pfundererthal is reached.
' Here this rarely used track joins the
more frequented path over the Drass
Joch. This is approached from Kema-
ten (Rte. B), 1 hr. below St. Jakob. The
path aseends a little S. of E. through
the tributary glen called Drassberg, and
attains in 3 hrs. the summit o± the
Drass Joch (8,422'), known on the S.
side as Pfunderer Joch. It lies on the
N. side of a summit called Sand joch
(9,696'), which name is sometimes in-
correctly given to the pass.
In descending it is necessary to bear
to the 1., somewhat N. of E.. to follow a
torrent that descends towards the Hoch
Sage, and then bends abruptly to the rt.
and joins several other streams from that
mountain to form the main torrent of
the Pfundererthal. The valley is some-
what sinuous, biat does not widely di-
verge from the ruling direction towards
SSE. The highest hamlet is Ban
(4.830'), at the junction of the Eisbruck-
erbach, descending from the Weisszinth,
with the main torrent. In | hr.'s easy
walking from Dan, or b\ hrs. from Ke-
maten, the traveller reaches
Pfunders (3,791'), the chief place in
the valley, a picturesque village, with two
very poor inns ; that near the church on
the rt. bank of the stream seems px-efer-
able. The passes leading to the Mlihl-
walderthal are noticed in the last Rte.
There is also a pass on the W. side of the
valley, leadingfrom Pfunders to the upper
part of the Valserthal (Rte. I). From
hence, or Weitenthal, the traveller may
ascend the Eidcchsherg (8,975'), locally
called Hegedex, This crowns a project-
ing ridge that extends to SW. from
the Grubachspitz. and is said to com-
mand a remarkably fine view.
If bound for the Pusterthal, the tra-
veller will follow the path along the E.
side of the valley. Below Pfunders this ;
is contracted to a narrow defile, said
to be dangerous in bad weather, owing
to falling bloi'ks. A fine waterfall
I is passed, and in about 1 m. the valley
widens out, and for nearly 1 hr. the path
runs straight along the level floor to
Weitenthal, near the footof theEidechs-
j berg. Thence, amid agreeable scenery,
' the traveller descends to Nlcdervindl, on
I the main road of the Pusterthal (§51 A),
and finds good accommodation at the
Post.
ROTJTB I.
KEMATEN IN PFITSCH TO BEIXEN, BY THE
VALSERTHAL.
The way through the Pfundererthal,
described in the last Rte., is pjossibly
the shortest way for a pedestrian from
the Pfitscherthal to the Pusterthal,
but there is anotlier way by which the
valley of the Rienz is reached at Miihl-
bach, a few miles above Brixen, which
would be convenient for a traveller
going to that town who shoidd wish to
avoid the beaten track of the Brenner
road. This lies through the Valserthal,
a glen nearly parallel to Pfunders, and
separated from the valley of the Eisack
by the Eltzeilkainm, a short range
which at first extends southward from
the Wildkreuzspitz, but turns to SSE.
when it approaches the junction of the
Eisack with the Rienz. The mountain-
eer may be more readily tempted to
choose this route as he may take on the
way the summit of the Wildkretizspitz
(10,271')- As mentioned in Rte. B,
there is a pass leading from Pfitsch to
Vals by the SW. side of that peak, and
its summit is accessible by the ridge
w-
t
%•
r
r
Ht GROSb GLOCKNER AND Xfh V I C 1 N ITT
•^%.-„
<10^^
V
i
>:'
^1
1^ 3S - '<« ^ ^ «'« ^'^ :y"x.
V ^«,.S« ^ ' ?
§51.
GROSSGLOCKiNER DISTRICT.
223
that descends thence towards the pass.
The simiiuii may be reached in 4 hrs.
from the Eiirgum Alp, and on rctui-ning
to a point ntar the summit of the pas.s,
the traveller may descend to the Wild-
see, a comparatively large Alpine lake,
■which is the source of a considerable
torrent flowing to the Valserthal. The
principal torrent, however, or at least
that which flows due S. in the direction
of the axis of the valley, rises on the S.
side of the Drass Joch (see last Ete.).
From the "Wildsee the way lies westward
for ^ hr. till the stream from the lake
joins the main torrent, and the com'se
of the united stream lies thenceforward
nearly due S. After passing the Pfanna
Alp the path passes through a strait in
the valley, and when this opens he finds
himself near the first houses of Vals.
The village is scattered over a space of
nearly 3 m., the church being 4,442 ft.
above the sea. It is inhabited by a fine
vigorous race, who have the name of pre-
serving the simplicity and independence
of character once universal in Tyrol,
but now becoming rare there as else-
where. Mounting through the Eitzeil-
thal, a path leads over an easy pass to
Mauls on the Eisack (§ 49, Ete. A). In
2 lirs. from Yals, descending during the
latter half of the M'ay through a pictur-
esque defile, the traveller reaches Miihl-
bach, on the high road about 6 m. from
Brixen (§ 51, Ete. A). This vaUey
must not be confounded with the Falser-
thai N. of the Brenner Pass, noticed in
Ete. C, nor with the Valserthal in the
Grisons (§31, Ete. F).
SECTION 51.
GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
Ix the introduction to the last section,
the eastern limit of the Zillerthal Alps
was fixed at the pass of the Krimmler
Tauern ; and it was remarked that the
range extending eastward from that pass
for a distance of about 62 miles is the
longest continuous range, preserving a
nearly straight course, and unbroken by
any deep passes, to be found in the
Alps. To this range, modern G-erraan
writers have given the name 'High
Tauern Alps,' and the same designation
is adopted in the present work, although
it has not seemed convenient to include
the entire within a single section.
Throughout the preceding portions of
this work, the designation 'main range
of the Alps' has, in accordance with
general usage, been applied to what may
more accui^ately be termed the dividing
ridge, separating the waters of the
Adriatic from those flowing in otlier
directions — i. e. westward to the Medi-
ten-anean, northward to the North Sea,
or eastward to the Black Sea through
the Danube. At its western extremity,
the High Tauern range touches the
watershed between the JDanube and the
Adige ; but as we carry the eye east-
ward from the Dreiherrnspitz, it will be
seen that the drainage of the S. side
of that range all flows to the Drave.
The circumstance that at a point some
hiuidreds of miles eastward of its source,
and far beyond the limits of the Alps,
the Drave pours its waters into the
Danube, forms no solid objection to the
conclusions derived from orography and
geological structui-e, which alike point
to the ridges dividing the Danube from
the Drave, as constituting the main
range in this portion of the Alps.
Although a line drawn along the
watershed from the Dreiherrnspitz to the
Arlscharte diverges but little from a
straight line bearing a httle S. of E.,
the reader who has not skipped the brief
preliminary observations in the preced-
ing volumes of this work will not ex-
224
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKXER DISTRICT.
pect to find here a strictly continuous
ridge, wliose separate portions preserve
the same direction as the collective mass.
Applying the figurative term commonly
used in most European languages, we
may say that the Alpine chain is formed
of large and massive links, alternating
with others much smaller and shorter.
To represent the real structure of the
Alps, we must imagine the larger links
laid on the ground nearly parallel with
each other, but in a direction more or
less transverse to that of the chain it-
self, and the smaller links placed so as
to unite the larger at the points where
these approach most nearly together. The
•smaller links, elsewhere in this work
spoken of as dislocations in the main
range, almost invariably coincide ■nnth
the lowest and most practicable passes.
Allowing for some local disturbances, we
have seen that the dominant direction of
the separate masses that collectively make
up the Alpme chain varies little from
WSW. to ENE. throughout the Western
and Central Alps, and the greater part
of Tyrol. The same direction is found
in the Zillerthal Alps, and again in
the westernmost of the four groups
that constitute the High Tauern range.
Whatever may be the causes that have
impressed this characteristic over so
wide a region, they cease to operate at
the Velber Tauern, which divides the
western group of the High Tauern from
the remainino- eastern portion of that
range. The three groups lying eastward
of that limit exhibit, both in their se-
parate ridges and the con-esponding val-
leys, a manifest tendency towards the
direction WNW. to ESE., and the
same direction is recognised throughout
Carinthia, and in some other adjacent
portions of the Eastern Alps. For this
reason, the writer would be disposed, in
a purely scientific arranarement of the
Alpine chain, to consider the Velber
Tauern (8,024'), which is the lowest
pass over the main range between the
Brenner and the Arischarte, as marking
one of its most important divisions.
In the present work, practical con-
siderations, depending on the conveni-
ence of travellers, demand the first con-
sideration; and it has appeared best to
include in the present section the two
dominant groups of Central Tyrol lying
on either side of the above-named pass.
The western group, whose best known
peaks are the Grossvenediger (12,053')
and the Dreiherrnspitz (11,494'), forms
the watershed betWL-en the Danube and
the Drave for a distance of about 14
m. between the Velber Tauern and the
Dreiherrnspitz ; but a prolongation of
its main axis, including many lofty
summits and numerous small glaciers,
extends to WSW. parallel to the Ahreii-
thal for not less than 16 m., its last
high summit being the Grossmostnock
(10,036'), E. of Luttach.
On the E. side of the Velber Tauern
extends the mass of lofty peaks distri-
buted among numerous minor ridges,
which the writer designates collectively
as the Grlockner group, because it cul-
minates in the beautiful peak of the
Grrossglockner (12,455'), the highest
summit of the Eastern Alps. This
group is divided from the more easterly
portions of the Tauern range by the
Hochthor (8,551'), north of Heiligen-
blut, which is taken as the eastern limit
of the district described in this section.
On the N. side of the range, extending
from the Krimmler Tauern to the Hoch-
thor, comparatively short valleys, divi-
ded by secoudar}- ridges of no great di-
mensions, descend towards the valley of
the Salza, described in § 50. The case
is different on the southern side. Two
nearly isolated high groups rise on the
S. side of the main masses already de-
scribed. To the SW. is the Antholzer
j group, whose highest peak is the Hoeh-
gall (11,284'), and some 24 m. farther
E. is the Schober group, so called from
its best known summit, the Hochscho-
ber (10,628'), tliough this is surpassed
by the Petzeck (10,761'). Somewhat
S. of the line, joining the Antholzer with
the Schober group, is the longer, but less
lofty, range known as the Defcreggen
j ran^e, whose highest point, the AYeisse
I Spitz, does not surpass 9,706 ft. As the
; Defereggen range approaches at its W.
§ 51.
GROSSGLOCKXER DISTRICT.
225
end close to the Antholzer Alps, and at
the opposite end near to Hoelischober,
It will be seen that the three minor
groups along with the two loftier masses
to the N. form a great basin, wherein
originates one of the most important
lateral valleys of the Eastern Alps. Tlie
waters of its four main branches, being
united in the same channel at Peisch-
lach, flow to SE. through an opening
between the Hochschober and the Defer-
eggen range.
The district included in this section
lies between the valley of the Salza on
the N. and the Pusterthal on the S.
The western limit is the way from I3run-
eck to EJrimml, described in the last sec-
tion ; and its eastern boundary is the path
from Lienz to Heiligenblut, and thence
to Bruck, in the Pinzgau, through the
Fuscherthal.
' The writer, who beyond all others has
contributed to a complete and accurate
knowledge of this and the district de-
scribed in the next section, is Colonel
V. Sonklar, whose important work, ' Die
Gebii'gsgruppe der Hohen Tauern,' con-
tains a mass of accurate information,
the result of many years' laborious ex-
ploration, accompanied by observations
which have made the orography of this
district more thoroughly known than
that of any other equally extensive part
of the Alpine chain. Dr. Euthner,
Mr. Keil, and other Austrian moun-
tiiineers, have also contributed much to
the exploration of the less easily acces-
sible summits and passes.
Although the upper valleys of the
Venediger range offer much fine scenery
and numerous considerable glaciers,
there is no single point in that part of
the district at all equal to Heiligenblut,
with its one great peak — the Glockner,
and one great glacier — the Pasterze.
The preference shown by travellers to
tliat spot is partly cause and partly ef-
fect of better accommodation than is to
be found in most of the other Alpine
valleys of this district. In this respect
it is perhaps surpassed by Fusch, where
very fair quarters are found at the baths
of St. AYolfgang, and at the village of
Fusch. Tolerable accommodation is
now found at Pregratten, and that place
offers the best resting-place for a moun-
taineer wishing to explore the S. side of
the Venediger range.
While conforming to the usage of re-
cent German writers who have used the
designation 'Tauern range' as a geo-
graphical term, applicable to a certain
portion of the central chain, the writer
must express his opinion that no evi-
dence has been produced to show that
the word ' Taiiern ' has, or ever had,
any wider meaning than that given to
it by the invariable usage of the in-
habitants of this part of the Alps. By
them it is strictly confined to the prac-
ticable passes over the central range
that connect valleys on the N. side with
those on the opposite slope ; the solitary-
exception being in an outlying district
on the border of Bavaria, where a moun-
tain (§ 42, Ete. B) bears the name Tauern.
The writer has little doubt that the ori-
gin of the word is to be sought in the
Gothic daur, which assumes the forms
tur and tiiora in Old High German, toor
or ttwr in the dialect of the Sette Comu-
ni, and is scarcely altered in the English
door. The same root (in Sanskrit dvdr,
or dur) may be traced throughout the
cycle of the Indo-Germanie tongues. If
this view be correct, the use of the term
in the Eastern Alps is the exact equi-
valent of ■j)&'rte, applied in the PjTenees
to the passes over the main range serving
to connect France with Spain.
An excellent map of this district on
a large scale is annexed to Sonklar's
work already mentioned. Mr. Franz
Keil, who unites skill as a chartogra-
pher with a minute knowledge of the
entire region, has executed, on a still
larger scale, a separate map of tho
neighbourhood of the Grossglockner,
extending from the Pinzgau to Kals and
Heiligenblut for Dr. Euthner's interest-
ing volume, ' Aus den Tauern ; ' and
another, including the Grossvenediger
group, with portions of the adjoining
valleys, which is inserted in the second
volume of the ' Jahrbuch of the Austrian
Alpine Club.' Another good map oi
9-2C,
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GHOSSGLOCKNEK DLSTRICT.
the Pcisterze Glacier and its neighbour-
liood, hj M. Keil. is given in * Peter-
mjinn's geographische aNfittheilungen
for I860.' Sonklar's map "vrill be
the mountaineer's best companion in
this district ; but the finest districts are
included in the map annexed to this
v«^!ume, and in Keil's map of the Gross-
venediger group.
Besides the ancient rough inns found
6n most of the old-established passes,
— known as Tauernhaiiser — the moun-
tJiiiieer in this district finds shelter in
many interesting l.ut out-of-the-way
spots, in huts provided by the liberality
of the Austrian Alpine Club or that of
private individuals, such as Mr. Stiidl
and other lovers of the Alps.
EOUTE A.
BBIXEN TO VILLACH BY THE PTJSTEE-
THAX.
Post
English
miles
miles
Untervnntl
2
9i
Bruneck .
3
14
Niederndorf
3
U
Sillian
3
14
Mitt€wald
2
H
Lienz
2
H
Oberdranburg .
n
111
Greifenburg
2i
Hi
SaohBenburg
2i
iif
Spittal
2i
io|
Patemion
2
H
Yillach .
3
14
29J 140 ;
Railway open. 2 trains each way daily ; one I
takes 8 hrs., the other 12 hrs. !
The road connecting Brixen with Vil- j
Inch has always been one of the great '
lines of communication through the '
Alps, but has acquired additional im- \
]iortance by the completion of the rail- :
way between those towns. ]
Taken together with the line from
Bruck to Klagenfurt, by the valley of
the Mur, it opens a direct channel for
exchanging the mineral treasures of
Styiia with the silk and corn cf Lom-
bardy, shorter by at least 1.30 miles than
the former line by Laybach and Gorizia.
Of the road here described, only the por-
tion between Bruneck and Lienz belongs
to this district, of which it forms the
southern boundary ; but it appears more
convenient to unite the whole under a
single heading.
For fully three-fourths of the distance
between Brixen and Villach, the road
lies through one of those great longitu-
dinal valleys — running parallel to the
direction of the main chain, and to the
line of outcrop of the crystalline rocks —
which are so characteristic of the Alps
as compared with other great mountain
districts. If it be allowable to doubt
whether such valleys as that of the
Rhone and Vorderrhein, in Switzer-
land, that of the Inn from its source
to Kuffstein, or that of the Adda from
Bormio to Colico, owe their origin to
the same causes that have upraised the
great mountain ranges Avith which they
are connected, such a doubt is scarcely
possible in regard to the great valley
extending from Untervintl to Marburg,
in Styria, or, at all events, as to its
upper portion, which terminates near
Sillian. Although the waters at its
western end flow towards the Adige,
while eastward from Innichen they go
in the opposite direction to the Drave,
this is so manifestly a single valley that
it has from a remote period been known
by the single name — Pusterthal — which
it still bears.
It is characteristic of the ignorance
which until recent times has prevailed
respecting the higher region of the T}to1
Alps that geographers should have
sought the source of the Eisack, or east-
ern branch of the Adige, in the compara-
tively insignificant stream that descends
from the long frequented Brenner Pass,
instead of preferring the Eienz, whose
main source is at the W. base of the
D^'eiherrnspitz, whence it descends to
Bruneck, bearing the name Ahren-
bach. Still more perverse was the se-
lection of the petty torrent that springs
from the flat between Toblachand Inni-
chen as the source of the Drave, when
ROUTE A. — BRIXEN TO VILLACH BY THE "PUSTERTHAL.
227
it is seen that the Isel, -which joins it
at Lienz, bears do-«-n tenfold the volume
of water flowing from at least a hundred
glaciers, and drains four considerable
Alpine valleys with their numerous la-
teral branches.
The structure of the valley above
Brixen well deserves the attention of
the physical geologist. A few miles N.
of the town, the Kisack issues from the
upper valley, through which it has flowed
south-eastward from Sterzing, and in
thp open space below the Franzeusfeste
it is separated from the Rienz by a nar-
row isthmus of low ground where the
streams might be expected to unite.
The isthmus expands, however, into a
cumparativeiy higli promontory of crys-
talline (granite':') rock, round the E. side
of which the Rienz descends through a
narrow gorge, while the Eisack flows
through a more open trough on the op-
posite side, till the waters are finally
united at the S. end of the promon-
tory under the walls of Brixen (§ 49,
Rte. A).
The rly. to Villach branches from that
over the Brenner Pass at l-'ranzensfeste,
the first station beyond Brixen, and only
2 m. distant though considerably higher.
Travellers who desire to see the country
or to penetrate the lateral valleys will
not be anxious to use a conveyance
which offers little advantage in the
way of saving time, and it 1 lows them
small opportunity to enjoy the scenery.
Light vehicles (einspannige Wagen)
are to be had at all post stations, and
may usually be hired in the country
towns.
Although the road to Bruneck is des-
tined to follow the valley of the Rienz,
it keeps to the rt. bank of the Eisack
for about 2 m., crossing to the opposite
side close to the abbey of Neustift. The
church is richly decorated in the style
of the last century. The library is said
to be the richest in Tyrol, and the tra-
veller may see here the tomb of the
Minnesanger, Oswald v. Wolkenstein.
Still keeping near to the Eisack, and
to the W. side of the rocky promontory,
the road goes northward to Schahs
Q
i (2,516'), on the site of the Roman Se-
batum. The cultivation of the vino
; ceases, and the last chestnut trees are
I seen on the low ground between the two
streams.
[The geologist, instead of following
the road from Brixen to Schabs, will do
well to take a way, little longer, though
much rougher, which will enable him to
study the course of the Rienz. Crossing
the Eisack at Brixen, close to its junc-
tion with the Rienz, he should ascend
to Elms. This stands at the S. end of
the promontor}', which is so nearly level
that it may be described as a plateau.
The church commands a fine view.
A track leading northward from Elvas
overlooks the deep cleft through which
the Rienz descencls from the Pusterthal,
and the opening of the Liisenthal (§ 60,
Rte. Gr). Passing some small pools, he
will rejoin the road at Schabs. The
botanist taking this walk may gather
Sempervivu'in arenarium, and other in-
teresting plants.] Close to Schabs a
road turns sharply to the W., and leads
over the Ladritscher Briicke to the
Brenner road, which is joined under the
M-alls of the Franzeusfeste. By that
way travellers coming from Innsbruck
and Sterzing enter the Pusterthal with-
out making the circuit by Brixen. The
road to Bruneck now approaches the
Rienz, and about 2^ m. N. of Schabs
crosses the torrent from the Valserthal
! (§ 50, Rte. I), and enters the village
of
Muhlhach (Inn : Sonne, very fair),
2,542 ft. above the sea. On a terrace
of the mountain W. of the Valserthal,
is Spings (3,621'). From this important
strategic position, held in 1797 by
General Joubert, with a corps of 30,000
men, the Tyrolese peasantry drove the
French foe after two days* desperate
fighting. At a still higher level, on the
opposite side of the Valserthal, is
Meransei\ (4,645'), reached by a path so
steep as to deserve the local name
' Katzenleiter' (cats' ladder). The slope
rising S. of Miihlbach from the opposite
bank of the Rienz, called Rodenecker
Berg, covered with cornfields and manj
2
22'!) CENTRAL TYROL ALPS, § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
thriving hamlets, is guarded at its S. i
end by tlie ancient castle of Bodeneck,
once one of the strongest in Tyrol,
standing on a projecting rock, and
reached by a bridge over a deep cleft in
the mountain. It -was in great part
destroyed by fire in the seventeenth cen-
tury, when precious collections of books,
MSS,, pictures, and antiquities, were
iie:irly all lost. It still contains some
objects of interest, and especially the
family papers of theWolkenstein family.
The traveller wishing to visit it should
cross the Rieuz near Schabs, and follow
the road by Vils, afterwards reaching
Miihlbaeh by Korburg,
Miihlbach is counted as the first vil-
lage in the Pueterthal, but orographically
that great valley terminates a few miles
higher up, and the course of the Rienz
Uience to Brixen lies through a cleft
at right angles to the direction of the
main valley. The defile was formerly
closed by a strong fort — called Miihl-
l)acher Klause — about 1 m. N. of the
village, which was blown up by the
French. The road still passes through
an archway of the ruined fort. On
issuing from the defile, the traveller
finds himself at the eastern end of the
Piisterthal, and may travel hence to
Marburg, in Styria, nearly 200 m. as
the bird flies, diverging but little from a
straight line, and without crossing
any transverse ridge. The first village
is
Niedervintl (Inn : Post, not so good
as it was formerly, and rather dear),
standing at the opening of the Pfunde-
rerthal (§ 50, Ete. H), 2,502 ft. above
the sea, to which follows Obervintl.
Numerous castles, for the most part in
ruins^ are passed. One of the most
ancient is the Sonnenhurg (2,778'),
etanding on a rock opposite the opening
of the e-aderthal (§ 60, Rte. G), which
runs deeply into the dolomite region of
S. Tyrol, and is also known as Abteithal,
from the jurisdiction once held over it
by the Abbess of Sonnenburg. Early
in the eleventh century, the castle was
converted into a Be-nedictine abbey for
noble ladies, and preserved that destina-
tion for nearly 800 years, till suppressed
by Joseph II. A short way beyond
Sonnenburg, but on the S. side of the
Rienz, is St.Lorenzen (2.636'), a thriving
village, in which the taste for painting
and bright colours, characteristic of this
part of Tyrol, is conspicuous. It is
said to have a good inn, but strangers
naturally push on about 2 m. farther
to
BrunecJc (Inns : Post, excellent and
reasonable ; Goldenor Stern, also good ;
Sonne), the chief place in the Pusterthal,
athriving little town, 2,686 ft. above the
sea. The church having been destroyed
by lightning a few years ago, it was re-
placed by a new building much admired
by the Tyrolese. The castle, standing
near 200 ft. above the town, commands
a good view of the surrounding country.
The position is rather remarkable. Due
N. extends the wide level trough through
which the Ahrenbach flows from Taufers
(§ 50, Rte. E) to join the less consider-
able stream that preserves the name
Rienz. Nearly opposite is the equally
wide opening of the Gaderthal ; while
eastward, but at a higher level than
these, the Upper Pusterthal mounts
gradually to the height of land that
separates the basin of the Adige from
that of the Drave. Round the point of
intersection of these great Alpine high-
ways, the higher mountains recede, so
as to leave a wider opening than is
commonly found in the interior valleys
of the Alps. Though not immediately
surrounded by flne scenery, Bruneck is so
near to many interesting spots that its
excellent inn affords convenient head-
quarters to the mountaiuter.
Near Bruneck, the zone of granite,
which has extended eastward along the
N. side of the valley of the Rienz, from
near its junction with the Eisack, comes
to an end, and mica slate becomes the
prevalent rock on both sides of the val-
ley. The high-road returns to the rt.
bank of the Rienz, and begins a rather
longer ascent than any that has been
met since leaving Brixen, rising nearly
600 ft. before reaching the first village,
named
ROUTE A. SOURCE OF THE DRAVE.
229
Tcrcha (3,278'), beyond which the
road crosses the Wielenbach, a torrent
descending from the Schwarze Wand
(10,179'), one of the peaks of the Ant-
holzer Alps. From hence the ascent
is very gentle, but continuous. To the
S. is seen the opening of the Gaisel-
bergerthal (§ 60, Rte. H), through which
tlie mountaineer may reach a little-
known district of the dolomite Alps,
lying between the Grade rthal and the
Ampezzo Pass. Nearly opposite is the
opening of the Antholzerthal (Rte. L),
which offers a convenient way for the
pedestrian who desires to approach the
inner recesses of the High Tauern Alps.
Here the main valley is narrowed be-
tween the bases of the opposite moun-
tains, and the road ascends rather more
steeply, crossing the Rienz, and soon
returning to the rt. bank, before reach-
ing the small village of
Welsherg (3,544'), with a good inn
(Rose) at the confluence of the Grsiess-
bach, which here descends through a
narrow cleft from the Gsiessthal (Rte.
L). Welsberg stands on the site of a
little lake which was drained in the four-
teenth century by the lord of the adjoin-
ing castle, whose name it received. It
has two inns (Lowe, clean and good ;
Rose). At some points on the road
from Brixen, glimpses of the fantastic
forms of the Dolomite Alps have already
been gained ; but they come rather more
fully into view near Welsberg, and es-
pecially about 2 m. beyond the village,
where the road passes opposite the
opening of the valley of Prags ('§ 61, Rte.
I), where rough but tolerable accom-
modation is found at either of the es-
tablishments for mineral baths. Here
the road follows the 1. bank of the
Rienz — now reduced to a trifling stream
— and before long reaches
yiederndorf (3,784'), a place of some
traflB.c, as it lies near the junction of the
Ampezzo road from Belluno with that
from Villach. The Post is a tolerably
good inn ; and the Adler, where the
Stellwagen halts, is not a bad one.
The Tyrolese peasantry have a whole-
Bome faith in the efiicacy of mineral
waters ; and there is scarcely one of
the lateral valleys of the Pusterthal iu
which there is not one or more estab-
lishments of the kind, usually supplying
the roughest accommodation at very
low charges. From one of these baths,
called Maktadt, on the slope of the
mountain, about 1^ m. SE. of Niedern-
dorf, there is a fine view of the Defer-
eggen Alps.
About \^ m. beyond the village, the
traveller crosses the Rienz for the last
time, near the point where it flows into
the Pusterthal from its chief source in
the Diirren See, near Hollenstein. Two
massive outposts of the dolomite mass,
standing one on each side of the narrow
defile, form a noble portal through
which the Ampezzo road runs due S.
towards Belluno and Venice (§61, Rte.
A). At the point where this highway
leaves the road to Villach is a large
cross, which at the same time marks
the summit -level, or height of land, be-
tween the Drave and the Adige, where
the waters are parted between the Black
Sea and the Adriatic. This level tract
(3,951 ft. above the sea), called Toh-
lacher FeJd, from the adjacent village of
Toblach, slopes very gently, almost im-
perceptibly, on either side. There is
nothing in the landscape to suggest the
idea of an Alpine pass. Barley and
rye are grown to some height above the
valley ; and though the winter climate
must doubtless be severe, the remains of
many castles show that it has not in
past times been such as to deter wealthy
men from dwelling here. On the down-
fall of the Roman power, this region
fell under the authority of the Bavarian
(or rather Boyoar) dukes, who here ar-
rested the western flow of the Slavonic
invasion at its natural geographical
limit. The name Victoribiihel, still given
to a slight eminence, records a victory
srained over these barbarous tribes in
709.
A streamlet, flowing from the base of
the mountain on the rt. of the road, is
fixed upon as the source of the Drave
(Grerm. Dmu, but locally called Drag),
for no other reason than the fact that it
2;io
CKXTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTKICT.
l:es near a frequonted highway. It is
joinfd a little farther on by a consider-
able torrent from the Sextenthal, which,
lifter fuliowintr the course of that valley
towards WNW., turns round towards
due E. on entering the main valley at
I?i?iichen (3,701'), a small place, de-
8t^rving the especial notice of the anti-
quary, who will find here good quar-
ters (BeimNeuwirth). The Bar (? same
house) is also recommended. The Stifts-
kirche, rebuilt afrer a fire in 1284, is
one of the most interesting of the early
Tyrolese churches, having in many par-
ticulars preserved the type of the most
ancient Christian churches of Northern
Italy. It has a vestibule for catechu-
mens, a lower chapel or crypt under the
raised choir, and a separate baptistery.
An ancient crucifix was saved from the
destruction of the earlier church, as also
were the bones of St. Candidus — the
gift of Pope Adrian I. in 780, preserved
in a silver shrine. Two portals of some
hard rock, miscalled porphyry, and an-
cient carving in ihe walls of the church,
alsodeserA-e attention. Other less impoi-
tant ancient churches here have partially
escaped the ravages of fire and barbarian
invasion, that began with the Sclavonic
hordes in the sixth and seventh cen-
turies, and terminated, we may hope,
with the French in 1809.
Through the Sextenthal ran the Eo-
man road to Aquileja, which here joined
the great Noric highway through the
valley of the Drave, and the still more
important line over the Brenner. Fa-
voured by this central position, the Ro-
n-.an station of Aguntum rose to mu^h
importance. It stood on the slope S. of
the present Anllage, and appears to ha 7e
fallen into decay after the destruction of
Aquileja by the Huns. Numerous ro-
cords of antiquity, and some objects cf
art, which are seen in the museum at
Innsbruck, have been found here, and
doubtless many more would reward a
systematic exploration of the site.
' The Sextenthal (§61, Rte. H) offers
ready access to some of the finest scenery
of t'.ie Dolomite Alps, and those who
have ni;t time for a longer expedition
may well give a day to an excursion to
the upper part of that wild valley. The
most prominent of the peaks seen from
the main road is the Dreidckustcrspits
(10,368').
The high-road follows the 1. bank of
the infant Drave to Vierschach (3,832'),
soon after crosses to rt. bank, but re-
turns to the opposite side before reaching
Sillian (Inns : Post, very fair ; Neu-
wirth), 3,611 ft. above the sea. The
scenery of the valley is rather dreary,
but a fine view may be gained from
the Hehnspitz {7,^7o'), a summit, easy
of access, rising SW. of the little
town. About a mile lower down, the
main valley is partially barred across by
the masses of debris brought down by
the torrent from the Villgrattenthal
(Rte.N), through which the mountaineer
may reach the Defereggenthal. The
swamps produced by this obstacle to the
course of the Drave were drained through
the interposition of the late Archduke
John, with much benefit to the health of
the inhabitants. The traveller following
the high-road may pass without remark
the junction with the Drave of a small
stream from the Kartitschthal. The
level of that valley being about 800 ft.
higher than that of the Pusterthal, the
stranger does not suspect that it forms
the W. extremity of the great trough of
the Gailthal, which is in truth the oro-
graphic prolongation of the Pusterthal,
while the course of the Drave from
hence to Villach, though not without
geological significance, does not follow
the main line of depression. The direc-
tion of the road, and the Drave valley,
here changes to somewhat N. of E., and,
after passing Strassen (3,595'), descends
rather steeply to Abfaltershach (3,223').
The character of the scenery gradually
changes as the mountains draw nearer
together, and the road crosses the Drave,
and recrosses to the 1. bank, before reach-
ing
Mittewald (2,950'), with a fair coun-
try inn at the Post. Through the nar-
row cleft of the Burgerthal, opening N.
of the village, the mountaineer may
reach Hopfgarten (Rte. K), over the
ROUTE A. EXCURSIONS FROM LIENZ.
231
Bocksteinscharte (7,434'). Nearly 3 m.
E. of Mittewald, the valley opens a little
at the inn of Au (2,856'), at the junction
of another short glen, descending from
the N., called VUfernerthal. Here the
Pusterthaljin its true geographical sense,
comes to an end, though the designation
is commonly extended to all that part of
the Drave valley lying within the bounds
of Tyrol. The valley is now contracted
to a mere defile, well known in the his-
tory of the Tyrolese struggle against the
French invasion as the Lienzer Klause.
At the narrowest point stands the an-
cient castle of Burg fried, which, though
partially in ruin, and garrisoned onlj
by peasants, successfully resisted the
French in 1 809. Later in the same year,
another desperate and bloody striiggle
occurred in this defile. On the S. side
is the Spitzlcofcl (8,913'), one of the
highest summits of the detached group
of dolomitic mountains that divide Lienz
from the Gailthal. A glimpse of some
of these peaks is gained as the road,
near the E. end of the defile, passes the
opening of the Galizenbach (§ 62, Rte. F).
By a rapid transition, the road passes
from the midst of stern and rugged
scenery to the richly wooded basin
wherein the copious stream of the Isel
descends from its parent glaciers to join
the Drave. Traversing the village of
Leisach (2,326'), the road turns NNE.,
and soon reaches the picturesque little
town of
Lienz (Inns: Post, very good; Lamm;
Rose ; Fischwirth). It occupies a part
of the site of the Roman city of Leon-
tium, which is said to have extended for
a space of 3 m. along the N. side of the
valley, and to have been destroyed about
the 9th century by a great Bergfall — a
judgment, says the chronicler, on the
wickedness of its inhabitants. Ancient
foundation walls, portions of mosaic
pavement, coins, and other remains,
found here and there as far eastward as
the hamlet of Dewant, give some colour
to the tradition. For more than two
centuries, it was the seat of the powerful
Counts of G-orz (Grorizia), who dwelt in
the castle of Bruck (now a brewery),
overlooking the town on the W. side.
The chief part of the town (Altstadt)
stands on the tongue of land above the
junction of the Drave with the Isel,
2,193 ft. above the sea. The Rathhaus
(or town-hall), in the main street, with
its four massive towers, is a stately
building. It contains a portion of a
Roman altar, with the figures of Venus,
Leda, and the Dioscuri, removed from
the castle of Bruck. On the 1. bank of
the Isel is the suburb called Rinder-
markt, and above it, on rising ground,
the ancient Pfarrkirche, dating, at least
in part, from the 12th century. It well
deserves a visit, and the traveller should
not fail to notice the eastern portal of
the churchyard with two marble lions,
which are believed to date from the Ro-
man or pre-Roman period. The situa-
tion of Lienz is charming. The rich
valley, crowded with hamlets, half hid
amid gardens and orchards, is circled
round by steep slopes, forest-clad, or
green with Alpine pasture. Above these,
on the N. and E. sides, rise rugged ridges
of crystalline slate, outliers from the
ranges of the High Tauern Alps. But
the chief attraction is found in the pic-
turesque forms of the dolomite peaks S.
of the town, visible from its streets, but
seen to greater advantage from the slopes
on the N. side of the valley. Lienz is
the most convenient starting-point for
many of the longer expeditions de-
scribed in the follo\\'ingRtes., but is also
a centre where manj' days may be well
spent in shorter excursions of especial
interest to the geologist and the botanist.
The slopes on the N. side of the town
offer the most interesting views, and at
the Heidenhof, only ^ hr. distant, near
the village of Grafendorf (2,453'), the
traveller finds a frequented restaurant,
where he may dine and enjoy the view
at the same time. A little higher up
is Thurn (2,797')) with the ruins of a
castle. He who would command a
wider view should ascend the S. peak of
the Zetterfeld (6,939'), or the much
higher summit oi iYiQ Schleinitz {^,522').
Though surpassed by some of the higher
summits of the Hochschober group, of
2o2 CENTRAL TVRUL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
which it is a southern promontory, this
commands a fine panoramic view, in-
cluding all the higher peaks of the do-
lomite Alpis.
Less laborious than the ascent of the
8ohleinitz is that of the IjO^es Weibele
(8,266 ), in the range W. of Lienz, di-
viding the Isel from the Drave. The
view is nearly as extensive, and it is
reached in 2 hrs. less time. The excur-
sion to the Kersehbaumer Aim. famous
for its rare plants, is described in § 61,
along with a notice of the dolomite
peaks that divide Lienz from the Gail-
thai. A short and very interesting ex-
cursion is that to Tristach and the
Jungbrunn, on the 8. side of the Drave.
The latter is a mineral spring of local
repute, about 3 m. from Lienz. In a
recess of the mountains, only i m. dis-
tant, is the Trutachcr See (2,686'), ly-
ing at the base of the Kauchkofel( 6,261').
Fossils of the Kossen formation may be
found near the lake, and some of the
rare plants of the higher zone of these
Alps (such as Saxifraya Burseriana) may
be found on shaded rocks at a compara-
tively low level. Astragalus leontinus
is found near the village of Tristach.
3Iany Alpine species are found in the
main valle}-, such as Oxytrapis pilosa
and 0. v.roloisi^, Fhaca australis and
P. alpiva, Sayina Linnm, &e.
An agreeable excursion from Lienz,
longer than those above noticed, is that
to the head of the Dehantthal, which de-
scends 8E., nearly parallel to the Isel-
thal. to join the main valley of the
Lrave at the village of Debant, about
\ m. E. of Lienz. It originates in a
cirque enclosed on three sides by the
high peaks of the Schober group. As
the lower part of the valley is not very
interesting, it is scarcely worth while to
visit it unless the traveller pushes on at
least as far as the foot of the glaciers at
The head of the valley, fully 5 hrs. from
Lienz. It is said that glacial phenomena
are here seen on a large scale, and near
the junction of the torrent from the
Klein-Gossnitz Glacier with the main
torrent is an ancient moraine, so con-
siderable that Souklar has thought it
deserving of insertion in his map. Se-
veral fine, but not easy, passes lead to
the adjoining valleys. Beginning at the
E. side, the more important of these
may be thus enumerated : — Secscharte
(8,4-52'), leading to the Wangenitzthal ;
1 Hofalnifcharte (9,028'), to theGossnitz-
i thai: Glodkseharte (9,282'), and Schohcr-
' t/iorl (9,2.52'), both leading to Kals
' through the Lesachthal ; and the Leih-
\ vitzscharfe (8.405'), to St. Johann im
Wald (Ete. E).
Below Lienz, the Drave, now grown
to a river, flows through what is orogra-
phically the prolongation of the valley
of the Isel, which extends ESE. some
way beyond the frontier of Tyrol.
Leaving on the 1. hand the low pass of
the iselberg leading toHeiligenblut, the
road keeps to the N. side of the broad
valley, below many remains of ancient
castles, passes Xicohdorf (2,1^%'), 'Am\
I reaches Norsach, the last Tyrolese vil-
li lage, about 10 m. from Lienz. There
is here a good country inn, whence the
traveller may make the ascent of the
Ziethenlcopf (8,1.38'). This is one of
the higher summits of tlie Kreuzeck
range, which di^'ides the MoUthal from
the Drave, and, being more detached
from the highf-r ranges than the Schlei-
nitz, or thf Boses Weibele. offers a
panoramic view in many respects more
complete. The ascent is easily made
in from 4 to 5 hrs.
No change in the asp^-ct of the valley,
and no natural landmark, indicate the
limit where the traveller quits Tyrol to
enter Carinthia. He soon reaches the
post-station at
Oherdrauhvrg (1,992'"), a smnll place,
with an indifferent inn, at the Post,
overlooked by the ancient castle of Drau-
burg, now belonging to Prince Porcia.
Here the ancient Roman road to Aqui-
leja, still an interestinsz, though no lon-
ger a frequented, way, diverges south-
ward. (.*^ee § 62. Rte. E.) The valley of
the Drave now bends somewhat to the
1., and follows a nearly due E. course for
nearly 20 m. Several torrents descend
from the N. into the valley through
fchort glens running into the Ivreuzeek
EOUTE A. — SriTTAL ON THE DRAVE.
233
range. The most considfiable is that
issuing from the Lrassnitzthcd, which
opens at JJcUach, about 5 m. E. of Ober-
drauburg. Ey that glen the traveller
may reach a fine pass between the Sand-
fdd (8,808') and the Krevzcck (8,851'),
and descend thence to the Mollthal,
through the "Wollathal. Keeping con-
stantly to the 1. bank of the Drave, the
road reaches the next post-station,
Gi-cifcnhurg (2,054'), on a little emi-
nence above the river formed by the de-
tritus borne down by the torrent from
the Gnopiiitzthal, a glen that drains the
SE. side of the Kreuzeck. On the S.
eide is the dolomitic peak of the Eeiss-
kqfel (7,749'), said to command a very
interesting panoramic view-. The pedes-
trian may take a short cut from Grrei-
fenburg to Villach by the Weissensee,
rejoining the high-road atPaternion, an
excursion of much interest to the geolo-
gist (§ 62, Rte. G). Those who prefer to
travel in light country carriages may,
•without lengthening the way, see some-
thing of the lower and less interesting
part of the Gailthal by following the
road to Hermagor by Weissbriach, and
thence to Villach by Arnoldstein, The
scenery of the main valley is, however,
at least equally interesting. The course
of the Drave, which from nearlnnichen
to this point has kept close to the line
of junction between the secondary rocks
and the crystalline slates of the central
chain, now quits that boundary, and
enters a comparatively narrow cleft in
the mica slate ridges which are the
eastern prolongation of the Kreiizeck
range. Keeping at first its easterly di-
rection by Steinfeld and Lengholz, it
tlien turns nearly due N., and amid
very pleasing scenery, and the din of
forges that accompany the traveller
through Carinthia and Styria, reaches
the next post-station at
Sachseiiburg (1,843'), on the rt. bank
of the Drave, just at the point where it
turns eastward to join the Moll. It has
been seen that near its source the Drave
quitted the direction of the great line of
valley, extending from Sillian through
the Gailthal, and, after flowing through
a narrow defile, entered the valley of
the Isel at Lienz. Exactly in the eame
way, the river quitted its normal course
at Greifenburg, and, after passing
through another cleft, enters the Moll-
thal immediately below Sachsenburg.
The course of the river from hence to
Villach exactly follows the ESE. direc-
tion of the Moll from Fragant to the
junction, and is parallel to that of the
main ridges and main valleys of this
region.
The high-road crosses both rivers im-
mediately above their junction, and for
many miles adheres to the 1. bank of
the united stream, which here runs
through a broad, level, and fruitful val-
ley. The exact site of the Roman city
of Teitrnia, or Tibumia, is now lost, but
remains of antiquity have been found
at many points. Numerous castles
crown the heights, of which the most
remarkable are the ruins of Ortenhurg.
The Counts of Ortenburg, who flourished
here for many centuries, held their do-
main as an imperial fief independent
of the Dukes of Carinthia. "When the
race at length died out, their privileges,
including that of conferring titles of no-
bility, were held to pass to the owner
for the time being of this castle. The
latter right sui-vived till 1753, when it
was sui'rendered by Prince Porcia to
Maria Theresa. Kot far from this the
traveller reaches the little town of
Spittal (1,772'), at the junction of the
Lkserhach with the Drave. Through
that valley the highway from Salzburg
by the Radstiidter Tauern (§ 52, Rte. E)
joins our road. There is here a good
country inn at the Post, a pretty church,
restored of late years, and a stately
Schloss belonging to Prince Porcia.
Omnibuses ply twice a day to the rail-
way-station at Villach. The pedestrian
may, by a slight detour, take the Mill-
stadter See (§ 55, Rte. F) on his way to
Villach, or to the next post -station at
Fatcrnion (1,704'), a small village
with an indifferent inn, standing on
the rt. bank of the Drave. The road
crosses the river about 3 m. higher up,
and near the bridge the traveller, in
234
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GHOSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
clear weather, gains a fine view up the
^Mollthal, with some of the peaks of
the Ilochnarr range in the background.
At Xickehdorf, less than a mile below
Paternion, the traveller who has taken
the way fromGreifenbui-gby theWeissen
See rejoins the high-road. (See § 62,
Ete. Or.) This henceforward keeps tx)
the rt. bank of the river through the green
and fruitful valley. The declivity on
the rt. conceals from view the higher part
of the Dobratsch (7,067'), which forms
the last massive link in the chain di-
viding the Drave from the Gailthal.
Not being strictly parallel, these streams
converge in an open space, traversed
only by low hills, at the NW. corner of
which, near the base of the Dobratsch,
stands, 1,593 ft. above the sea,
VUlach (Inns : Post, GoldenesLamm),
described in § 55, Ete. A.
Route B.
LIEN'Z TO HEILIGEXBLITT — ASCEXT OF THE
GEOSSGLOCIO'EE.
Stunden
■Wiaklem .
Dbllach .
Heiligenblut
English
miles
8 21*
Road passable for light carriages, A pedes-
trian following the foot-path over the Iselsberg
may easily perform the whole distance in 7
hrs.
Heiligenblut is deservedly a favourite
resort of tourists in the Eastern Alps ;
and whatever rivals may hereafter
arise, when the region is more fully
known to travellers, this must ever
remain one of those choice peculiar
spots where the memory stores up
images of grandeur and beauty never
to be eflfaced. It cannot, indeed, riA'al
in variety such centres as Zermatt,
Chamouni, Lauterbrunnen, and others
that occur to every Alpine traveller;
the interest is here concentrated on a
single peak and a single glacier. The
picture is varied only by the changing
lights and shadows of morning and
evening, clouds or serene sky, sunshine
and moonshine ; but it is hard to say
how it could be imagined more per-
fect. The exquisitely sharp cone of
the Grossglockner, rising in an un-
broken slope of 5,000 ft. above the
Pasterze Glacier, is not surpassed for
grace and elegance by any in the Alps.
The ascent, though it cannot be called
easy, is, with competent guides, per-
fectly safe, and can be accomplished
with little fatigue, so that it is annually
achieved by an increasing number of
travellers. The village is now acces-
sible by road from the S. side, and by a
moderately easy path from Gastein
(described in § 52, Ete. B). Besides
these ordinary modes of access, there are
several mountain or glacier paths no-
ticed in the following routes. It must
be owned that the accommodation falls
far short of what is found at equally
frequented places in Switzerland ; but,
except when overfull, the inn is tolerably
comfortable.
The pedestrian, starting from Lienz,
wiU save little time by taking a car-
riage to Heiligenblut ; but, of course, the
case is altered in descending the valley
of the MoU from that place to Wink-
lern. It is, however, a good plan to
avail oneself of any passing diligence
or Stellwagen for the 3 m, of dusty road
between Lienz and Dblsach (2,38-4'), a
village on the 1, of the high-road to
Villach, at the foot of the Isdsherg.
This is a low isthmus, connecting the
range of the Hochschober to NW. with
that of the Kreuzeck to E„ and thereby
ROUTE B. VALLEY OF THE MOLL.
235
separating the valley of the Moll from
that of the Drave. It rises only about
1,600 ft. above the latter, and about
800 ft. above the former, stream. The
carriage-road winds up the slope above
Dolsach, while the path keeps to the
rt., passing near the old castle of Wal-
lenstein. The summit of the low pass
is indicated by a cross marking the
frontier between Tyrol and Carinthia,
near a country inn called Auf der Wacht
(3,820'). During the ascent, the tra-
veller will not fail to turn round to
enjoy the view over the valley of the
Drave, and the fine group of dolomite
peaks rising behind it, culminating in
the Kreuzkofel (8,979 ). This is par-
ticularly striking when the passage of
the ridge is made in the opposite di-
rection. Leaving, on the rt. hand, a
mineral spring with baths, the road
descends to Winklerii (3,186'), a village
standing on the slope above the S. bank
of the Moll, which, after flowing nearly
due S. from Dollach, here turns sharply
to the E. A post-carriage runs three
times a week to Spittal (§ 52, Rte. C).
A char hence to Heiligenblnt costs 4 fl.
The inn, kept by Herr von Aichenegg,
a small proprietor of old family, is very
good and reasonable. The road to Heili-
genblut, rough in places, descends to the
level of the Moll, and then crosses to
the 1. bank, running a little E. of N., as
far as Mortsckack (3,185'). The valley
is enclosed between two high groups of
crystalline slate peaks. That on the E.
side is a lateral branch of the Hoch-
narr range, and the much higher mass
to the W. is the Schober group, whose
highest simimits are the Petzeck and
Hochschober. Above Mortschach, the
road returns to the rt. bank, and soon
reaches the opening of the Wangenitz-
thal, a steep lateral glen, whose torrent
flows from a lake {Wangenitzsee), at
the unusual height of 8,262 ft. There
is said to be another smaller lake, or
taxn (Kreuzsee), a still higher level,
close to a pass, called Seescharte (8,452'),
over the ridge dividing this from the
Debantlhal. On the N. side of the
Wangenitisee rises a high snowy range,
crowned by the Petzeck (10,761'),
the summit of which may be reached
from the lake. In going from Heiligen-
blut to Lienz, the active mountaineer
may easily take the Seescharte on his
way, descending to the Drave through
the Debantthal (Rte. A). About 3 m.
N. of the opening of the "VYangenitzthal,
the road, after recrossing to the 1. bank
of the Moll, reaches
Dollach (3,372'), with a very fair
country inn — Beim Ortner. The village
was once a prosperous place, when the
mines in the adjacent Zirknitzthal gave
abundant occupation to the natives.
Since these have been abandoned, the
place has decayed. Several of the best
guides in the valley live here, but are
oftener to be found at Heiligenblut.
The Zirknitzbach, which flows through
the village, forms a remarkably fine
waterfall in a deep ravine at the lower
end of the Zirknitzthal. It is ac-
cessible in 10 min., and should not
be missed. For a notice of the glacier
passes leading to Rauris, see § 52, Rte.
B. A remarkably fine view of the en-
tire valley, and the Pasterze Glacier,
is gained from the Stanziwurdi (8,87 S'),
the summit of which may be reached in
4 hrs. from Dollach. The road now
follows the 1. bank of the Moll in a
NNW. direction. At Putschal, about
2 m. above Dollach, the opening of the
Grattenthal is seen on the W. side. It
is a wild glen, whose head is enclosed
by the highest snowy summits of the
Petzeck and Schober group. The main
valley is now narrowed between the
bases of the mountains on either hand,
barely leaving space for the Moll, which
chafes and rages in its narrow channel,
partly blocked up by rocks that have
fallen from the adjoining heights. The
road crosses and recrosses the stream,
and passes opposite a pretty waterfall of
the Staubbach family, called Jungfern-
sprung. The BrennJcogel (9,894'), the
easternmost of the high mountains en-
closing the head of the valley, now
comes into view, but, though near at
hand, no part of the great peak is yet
seen. It is onlj after passing the
23G
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 51.
GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
hamlft of Pockhorn (3,568'), and cross-
ing the Flciss torrent, which descfnd.3
from the glaciers of the Hochnarr,
that the valley opens to WNW., and
the beautiful peak of the G-lockner is
revealed to view. The exquisite appa-
rition is soon lost again, as a low inter-
vening ridge comes in the way. The
road begins to mount rather steeply.
A path to the 1. leads past a fine fall
of the 31511, called the Zlapp, which can
be seen by the pedestrian without any
loss of time. From the waterfall, he
should follow the path that mounts by
the 1. bank, and rejoin the road a short
way from
HeUigenhlut (Inn : G-locknerhaus ; was
burned down in 1864, has been rebuilt
and improved in most respects ; charges
ratherhigh, but accommodation very fair,
when the house is not overfull), a small
group of houses, with a very picturesque
church in old German style, standing
4,26i ft. above the sea, on a terrace
about 200 ft. above the 1. bank of the
Moll. As already said, the situation of
this place is perfect. The view of the
Glockner surpasses anything of the
8ame kind to be gained from any in-
habited place, not reckoning the moun-
tain inns of Switzerland, and enough
is seen of the lower part of the great
Pasterze Glacier to excite, without fully
satisfying, the traveller's curiosity and
activity. The British traveller, smitten
with the plague of haste, may accom-
plish in one day the indispensable ex-
cursion to the Pasterze Glacier, or may
even combine it with the walk hence to
Pusch or to Kaprun (Rtes. C and D) ;
but the wiser few will linger many days,
and may vary the enjoyment of the
grand scenery of the main valley by
excursions into the Gossnitzthal, and
other recesses of the surrounding Alps.
The visitor who can put up with
rather rough accommodation, and pre-
fers a quieter spot than the frequented
inn, may find fair accommodation, civi-
lity, and moderate charges, at a little
inn in the hamlet of Pleiss, about i hr.
above HeiligenVjlut. It is kept by
Tribuser, ' der Pleissner,' commands a
remarkably fine view, and is chiefly
frequented by German artists.
Heiligenblut is the only place in the
Austrian Alps where there is a regu-
larly organised corps of guides with a
fixed tarilF. The charges are rather
high for the country, but cannot be called
extravagant, when it is remembered
that, at the ordinary exchange, the
florin is scarcely worth more than 2
francs, except that 15 lbs. is an un-
reasonably low allowance for a porter.
The following tariff contains also the
charges for horses and chars. Some
slight changes may have been recently
introduced : —
GriDES A^T) POETEES.
Gossnitz Waterfall ....
Leiter do. . . . .
Wolfganghiitte, Brettboden, Franz-
Josephs-Hohe, Johannes-Hutte .
Johannes-Hutte and back across the
Pasterze Glacier ....
Kaiser Thcirl
Kals
Salmshbhe
Dollach
Mortschacb
Winklem
Hochthor ......
Fuscher "Wegscheide
Fuscher Thor
Ferleiten
Fusch
Pasterze Glacier and over Pfandl-
scharte to Ferleiten
Tauernhaus in Rauria
Kauris or Bucheben
Bucheben and over the Stanzer
Scharte to Bad Gastein
fl. kr.
20
80
1 60
\^
2
3
15
3
15
70
1
40
1
75
1
5
1
30
2
4
20
5
80
5
3
5
l7
A guide or porter is obliged to carry
15 lbs. luggage for the above rates of
pay, and for every lb. in excess 2 kr.
per lb. per Stunde distance. No claim
for Trinkgeld is allowed.
HORSES (rIDIXG ANT) BAGGAGe).
To the Leiter "Waterfall
,, Wolfganghiitte
„ Brettboden or Wallnerhii
,, Hochthor
„ Rauris or Bucheben
,, Fuscher Thor .
,, Ferleiten .
.. Fusch
fl.
kr.
1
80
2
3
30
2
60
10
3
60
10
11
A horse cannot, at the same time,
serve for riding and baggage, nor is the
driver compelled to act as porter.
ROUTE B. — PASTEHZE GLACIER.
23?
CHARS {Ein Scanner). !
fl. kr.
To Dfillach 1 f^O
„ Mortschach 2 60 j
„ Winklern 4 |
„ Stall C 50 I
„ Obervillach Id n |
., Lienz 9 1
Speaking generally, the Hciligenblut
guides are good mountaineers, but fall
far short of the better Swiss and Cha-
iriouni men in general intelligence and
information. For the ascent of the
Glockner, the charge, not included in
the tariff, is now 8 fl. 50 kr. per guide,
and 13 fl. when taken over the Pfandel-
scharte toFerleiten. They do not now in-
sist on the unreasonable rule of requiring
two guides for each traveller, but usually
insist on three guides for two travellers.
The guides most highly recommended
for glacier expeditions are Josef Tri-
busser (the best mountaineer), Anton
Grauogger (who ranks as chief guide),
Anton Wallner, Christ. Pichler, Josef
Lackuer, Georg Bauerle, and Johann
Fritz.
The neighbourhood of Heiligenblut
is, in an especial sense, classic ground
to the lover of Flora. For nearly a
centurj' Wulfen, Hoppe, Hornschuch,
Schultes. and the succeeding generation
of Austrian botanists, have made this
their favourite resort. Unfortunately,
the avidity of collectors has nearly, if
not quite, extirpated some of the rarest
Bpecies, but an ample harvest still re-
mains to be gathered by an active ex-
plorer. A list of the more interesting
species is given lower down.
Heiligenblut derives its name from a
precious relic found on the person of
St. Briccius. a pious Dane, who, after
serving the Emperor Leo as a valiant
general, was lost in a sno-w-storm on
his homeward journey over the Hoch-
thor. The legend, copied from a little
work called ' i)er Fiihrer in Karnthen,'
is incorrectly given by Messrs. Gilbert
and Churchill in their well-known work.
The correct version will be found in
Sonklar's ' Eeiseskizzen aus den Alpen
uud Karpathen.' The traveller should |
not fail to viijit the church where the I
relic is preserved in an elaborate richly
carved shrine.
AVhat may be called the indispaia-
flWe excursion fromHeilig<-nblut is that
to the Fastcrze Glacier (locally called
Pasterzenkees); and. in truth, "whatever
other expeditions a traveller may make,
even though he should ascend the Glock-
ner, or one of the other high summits
that look down on the glacier, he will
do unwisely if he fail to traverse at
least some part of its surface. Though
not nearly equal in dimensions to the
greatest glaciers of the Swiss and Savoy
Alps, this measures about 6 m.from its-
lower end to the bounding ridge of the
Hohe Riffl, which is as great a space as
the eye can well take in at the same
moment, and the view of the Glockner,-
as seen from the lower glacier, is not-
surpassed by any of the same character-
in the Alps,
The path from Heiligenblut to the
glacier descends a little towards the
Moll, and crosses to the opposite bank,
but in about | m., on approaching a
point where the torrent from the Goss-
nitzthal joins the Moll from the SSW.,
and the Tauernbach from the N., the'
track to the glacier returns to the L
bank, and then traverses the last-named'
torrent. At this spot, called
Winkel (4,335'), the last group of
houses is left behind. The ascent now
becomes steeper, and, though the upper
course of the Moll is nearly one con-
tinuous cataract, it has cut so deep a
cleft in the rocks that it is lost both to
the eye and the ear. The Briccius-Ka-
pelle (5,348'), a small oratory, is reached
just opposite the spot where the Leiter-
bach descends, in a very fine waterfall,
to the level of the main valley.
From this point, the head of the valley
is locally called Pasterzenthal, and the
stream issuing from the great glacier
Fastcrze. The path ascends gradually
along the steep slope, and, about ^ hr.
1 eyood the chapel, divides. That on
the 1. hand, wliich is somewhat shorter,
■R'as formerly considered dangerous, and
obtained the name Bose Platte; but it
has been so much improved that ladies
238
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
may pass vdthout hesitation. The ascent
continues over a rounded eminence
called Ochsenbrett, and from the sum-
mit the lower portion of the Pasterze
Glacier for the first time comes fully
into view. Since the visit of the present
Emperor and Empress of Austria in
1857, this spot, reckoned 3 hrs. from
Heiligenblut (very easy going), is called
Elizabethsruhe. However fine the view
from hence may be, it gives a very in-
complete idea of the extent of the glacier,
and the traveller who does not intend to
prolong his walk much farther should
at least mount to the Sattel, an adjoining
eminence, whither on that occasion the
Emperor was conducted, and which then
received the name Franz-Josephs-Hohe
(8,323'). Those who extend the excur-
sion to the upper end of the main reach
of the glacier will be well rewarded.
A brief description of the Pasterze
Glacier will be here in place. Like all
great glaciers, it consists essentially of
two portions — an upper basrn of neve,
where the snow is stored up and gra-
dually converted into ice ; and a lower
ice-river, whose volume is proportioned
to the extent of the reservoir. The
basin — locally called Oberster Paster-
zenkees — is in form a nearly rectangular
parallelogram, with sides rather more
than 2.^ m. in length. Beginning at the
SW. corner, the boundary riins nearly
due N. from the ScJmeewinkel (11,591'),
over the summit of the Johannisberg
(11,425') to the Hohe Eiffel (11,003'),
dividing the Cai'inthian Mollthal from
the Salzburg valley of Stubach. From
the Hohe Eiffel, the bounding ridge
runs eastward to the Vorder-Bdrenkopf
(10.507'), and the Mitttl - B'drcnkopf
(10, 976'), dividing the Mollthal from the
Kapruner Thai. From the Mittcl-Bdren-
kopf, the main range between Fusch and
the Moll extends to SE. ; but the chief
basin of the glacier is limited by a ridge,
for the most part covered with ice, that
extends a little W. of S. to the Gross-
Burgstall. On the E. side of this latter
ridge is a much smaller snow basin,
which sends a tributary glacier to join
the main stream on the SE. side of the
Gross-Burgstall. On the S. side, the
great neve basin is limited by a pro-
jecting ridge extending eastward from
the Eomai-iswand to the Klein-Burg-
stall. The main outlet of this reservoir is
through the opening between the Klein-
and the Gross-Burgstall. These are two
high rocky cliffs, covered at the top with
neve, but presenting a bold front to the
lower glacier. The upper ice-fall ter-
minates between these barriers at a
height of about 8,300 ft., and thence the
majestic ice-stream flows in a straight
course for about 3 m., preserving a
gentle slope till it reaches the base of the
Franz-Josephs-Hohe. From that point,
where the height of the glacier above
the sea-level is about 7,800 ft., it de-
scends in two very fine ice-falls, of which
the lower is visible from Heiligenblut, a
height of more than 1,500 ft. in a hori-
zontal distance of less than a mile.
We have seen that the upper reser-
voir of the Pasterze is enclosed on three
sides by ridges that form part of the
main chain dividing Salzburg from Ca-
rinthia. The glacier proper, from the
two Burgstalls to the foot of the lower
ice-fall, flows between two parallel
ridges, of which the shorter, biit by far
the most remarkable, is the Gross-
glockner range. This diverges from
the main chain at the above-mentioned
peak of the Schneewinkel, and extends
SSE. a distance of rather more than
6 m. The first prominent point is the
Eomanswa7idkopf (II, 6S2') ; to this,
after a slight depression, succeeds a
singular rocky ridge of excessive steep-
ness, and nearly horizontal at the
top, appropriately named Glocknerwand
(12,182'), and then, after another de-
pression, not seen from the lower part
of the glacier, the range rises at once
to its culminating point in the NNTV.
peak of the Crrossglockticr (12,455'),
scarcely separated, as seen from below,
from the adjoining SSE. peak, some
50 ft. lower. A lontr slopf>. at first very
steep, then gentle, leads downward to
the Huhenwartsikart'^ ( 1 0,359' ), to which
succeeds the Kdlerbirg (10,687'), and
other sumiuita in gradually descending
ROUTE B. — ASCENT OF THE GROSSGLOCKKEK.
23a
order, till the range terminates in the ■
I'^d r-Le.ie'-/copf i^SASO'), which over- 1
looks the junction of the Leiterbach ;
with the Moll. On the opposite side of !
the gbicier, the valley of the Moll is i
divided from that of Rauris by the
range extending from the Mittol-Ba- i
renkopf to the Hochthor (see next |
RtH.), whose chief summits are the j
Brfitkopf [10,220'), Fuschtr Kahrkopf
(10.957',). Sinewellcck (10.732'), 5^^^/-
mnnn (9,9G0'), and BrefDikoqel {9,S9o') ;
but the glacier stream is immediately
confined by a s-teep ridge called the Frei-
tvand (9,960'), that diverges from the
Fuscher Kahrkopf nearly parallel to the
main range, and excludes from view all
the other summits named above.
Between the Ochsenbrett and the
Franz-Josephs-Hohe the Pfandelbach,
descending from the Pfandelscharte
(see next Rte.), crosses the path to the
glacier. It is traversed by a wooden
bridge, beyond which is the Wallner-
hiitte (6,762'), a rude stone hut. Then
commences the moderately steep ascent,
leading in 1 hr. to the summit of the
Franz-Josephs-Hohe, a point which will
remind the traveller in many respects
of the Pavilion on the Mont Anvert,
near Chamouni. A descent of about
400 ft. leads to the lateral moraine,
whence access to the glacier is quite
easy. Here the traveller must decide
as to his course. The guides usually
lead strangers to the Hoffmannshutte,
formerly called Johannishutte (8,026'),
a stone hut on the slope of the Freiwand,
reached from hence in | hr. Above
it, towards the peak of the Fuscher
Kahrkopf, is a stony slope called Garns-
grube, famed as a habitat for many
rare plants. The hut, originally built
at the cost of the late Archduke John,
was rebuilt at the expense of the late
Mr. Hoffmann, who fell in the war of
1870. It affords comfort;ible night-
quarters. From hence the summit of the
Fuscher Kahrkopf may be attained in
less than 3 hrs. Except for the botanist,
the best way of employing 3 or -t hrs.
which are devoted to the Pasterze Gla-
cier, is to traverse the centre of the
great ice-stream to the base of the up-
per ice-fall. With ordinary caution the
excursion is free from risk or difficulty.
In about 3 hrs. from the time when he
first touches the ice, thfi traveller may
reach the base of the upper ice-fall be-
tween the Grross- and Klein-Burgstall,
visit the base of both, which are found
to be more considerable cliffs than they
appear at a distance, and return to his
stariag-point. In warm weather, ice-
avalanches constantly fall over the face
of the Grross-Burgstall, and care should
be taken to avoid tlieir track.
Among the other excursions from
Heiligenblut, mo^t of which are noticed
in the following Rtes., the Gossnitzfcdl
deserves especial mention, not only for
the waterfall itself, but for the striking
scenery of the savage glen leading to
it : 1 hr. suffices for going and return-
ing.
To the mountaineer, the most at-
tractive excursion from Heiligenblut
is the ascent of the Grossglockner.
Like other expeditions of the same
kind, this long enjoyed the prestige
of difficulty and danger, but of late
years it has been often accomplished
by travellers who possessed little pre*
vious training. There are now four
ways for making the ascent, two start-
ing from Kals, and two from Heiligen-
blut (see Rte. H).
The old course from Heiligenblut lay
by the head of the Leiterthal, whose
torrent joins the Moll opposite the
Briccius-Kapelle, mentioned above. The
path crosses the torrent from the Goss-
nitzthal opposite Winkel (see above),
and mounts diagonally along the slope
on the SW, of the main valley, till, at
the Sennhiitten of the Trogalp, it enters
the Leiterthal at a high level, much
above the waterfall that is admired oa
the way to the Pasterze Glacier. Tra-
versing the torrent about 1^ hr. from
Heiligenblut, the path turns about due
W. along some steep rocks. This pas-
sage is called the Katzensteig, and has
somehow acquired a reputation for
difficulty which can scarcely be detected
by anyone accustomed to mountain walk-
210
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§51. GROSSGLOCKNER DLSTRICT.
ing. About 1 hr. from the bridge over
the Leitei-bach, the traveller reerosses
the torrent to the Leitcrkuttc (6,640'),
8U] 'plying rough quarters for the night ;
better, however, than in the Ochsen-
hiitte, another hut rather higher up in
the valley. It is advisable to start
hence before daylight, as the remainder
of the way through the Leiterthal, as
far as the foot of the glacier, may be
easily accomplished with the aid of a
lantern, and better still, in the writer's
opinion, without it. The opening seen
in the range to the 1. is that of the
Peischlagthal, through which lies one of
the paths to Kals. Tiie ;iscent becomt'S
rather steeper, but nowhere difficult,
and in less than 2 hrs. from the Hiitte
the traveller reaches the moraine at the
foot of the Lciter Glacier (locally called
Leiterkees). Here formerly stood a
stone hut, built at the cost of Count
Salm, Prince Bishop of Gurk, to whose
active personal intervention the first
ascents were mainly due. It was de-
stroyed several years ago by the advance
of the glacier.
The Leiter Glacier is divided into
two branches by a buttress of rock pro-
jecting from the steep mass of the
IIoke7nvartkopf (10,792'); between this
and the equally steep rocks of the Kel-
lerbtrg, a couloir leads from the E. branch
of the glacier to the Hoh:nwartscharte
(10,359'). This is the lowest point to
which the ridge of the Glockner sinks
on the ESE. side, and to this the travel-
ler's steps are directed. The glacier is
easily traversed, but as it rises towards
the couloir it increases in steepness, and
finally attains a slope of nearly 40°. If
the neve be hard frozen, as usual in the
early morning, reasonable care is re-
quisite, as a slip might have awkward
consequences. On reaching the summit,
the traveller stands on the ridge leading
by a continuous ascent to the highest
peak. For a considerable distance, the
slope is so gentle, and the ridge so
broad, that the course is remarkably
easy. TheHohenwartkopf, which looked
so conspicuous from the Leiterkees,
here shows as a mere snow-hillock,
which the traveller passes on his 1. hand.
The name was given in compliment to
Count Hoheuwart, a canon of Klagen-
furt, who, in 1799, reached the E. peak
of the Glockner for the first time, and
three years later also attained the high-
est summit. The last halt in the ascent
is usually made at the Adlersruhe
(11,339'), a point where some shattered
rocks slightly project through the cover-
ing of neve, elsewhere continuous along
the ridge. Here are seen the roofless
walls of a little hut, erected by the
earlier explorers. From the Aldersruhe,
the Glockner peak shows itself in full
beauty, as an excessively shai-p snow
cone, sloping on the S. side at an angle
of 60°, while on the other hand the
somewhat irregular edge of the arete,
in places actually overhanging, is seen
against the sky. For some distance, the
slope is still moderate, but increases
rapidly after crossing the Bergschrund.
When it reaches -iO-', if not sooner, it is
expedient to cut steps, taking care not
to approach too close to the edge over-
hanging the Pasterze Glacier. The
steep part of the arete is about 600 ft.
in vertical height, and the maximum in-
clination observed by the writer 47° (49°
according to Schlagintweit). The slope
on the 1. hand, towards the Kodnitzkees,
in some places attains an angle of 67°,
while on the rt. hand it approaches still
more nearly to the vertical. The first
peak, about 12,400 ft. in height, had
always been found a snow-ridge, vary-
ing in sharpness and in form with the
season; but in 1861 it was for the first
time seen bare of snow. The difficulty
of the Glockner ascent formerly lay in
the passage from the first to the second
peak. The arete is excessively narrow,
and at the gap between the two peaks
there is an awkward drop of from 15 to
20 ft., which lands the traveller on what
may be truly described as a knife-edge
of hard-frozen snow, that bridges over
the chasm. A wire rope iiistened to the
rock now makes the descent easy and
safe. A more direct and, on the whole,
a more interesting way to ascend the
Glockner is that from the side of the
ROUTE B. — EXCURSIONS FROM HEILIGENBLUT.
241
Pasterze Glacier. The E. face of the i introduction to this section. In their
highest peak appears, indeed, to be im- j work, entitled ' Untersuchungen iiber
practicable, but the portion of the ridge ■ die physikali.sche G-eographle der
below the Adlersruhe is less steep, and j Alpen,' the brothers Schlagintweit have
a small glacier there fiiUs rapidly to- given the results of their laborious ex-
warJs the Pasterze. Though the lower i amination of the Pasterze Glacier and the
part of this glacier is steep, and in some
seHSons a good deal crevassed, it does
not oppose a serious obstacle to prac-
tised ice-men. The course now pre-
ferred by most mountaineers is to sleep
at the Hoftniaiinshiirte, and then, cross-
ing the main glacier, ascend to the
Adlersruhe, and thence by the course
above described to the summit. With
the snow in good order active walkers
have made the ascent in less than
4 hrs. from the hiitte. After cross-
ing the snow bridge, the ascent of
tne final peak is a mere bit of pleasant
rock climbing. Everj traveller knows
that the view from a peak 12,455 ft. in
height, and with no loftier rival within
more than 100 m., must be of almost
boundless extent, but the view from the
Glockner has the further advantage
of showing a vast region which is im-
perfectly known to ordinary travellers.
The dolomite Alps, from the Marmolata
to the Terglou, are amongst the most
interesting objects ; westward the eye
reaches to the Bernina ; northward, over
the plain of Bavaria to the neighbour-
hood of Eatisbon ; and to SE. to the
mountains on the Bosnian frontier, fully
170 m. distant — the Klek, above Ogulin,
S. of Karlstadt, being easily recognised.
For such distant views, exceptionally
favourable weather is, of course, the
first requisite.
The ascent of the Grossglockner is
briefly recounted by the late Dr. Brin-
ton, in the 2nd series of ' Peaks, Passes,
and Glaciers.' A more detailed nar-
rative will be found in Colonel v. Son-
klar's pleasant volume, 'Reiseskizzenaus
den Alpen und Karpathen,' and in Dr.
Buthner's work, ' Aus den Tauern.'
The reader who desires accurate infor-
mation as to the topography and hypso-
metry of this and other portions of the
High Tauern range will refer to Son-
klar's important work mentioned in the
C. T. ]
surrounding ranges ; but, unfortunately,
that work and the accompanying map
contain many errors of nomenclature,
and some of their determinations of al-
titude differ widely from the results
subsequently obtained. The height given
by them for the Grossglockner, derived
from a single barometric observation, is
12,958 ft. That adopted by Sonklar,
which is the mean of four closely con-
cordant trigonometric observations, dif-
fers by more than 500 ft.
Of other expeditions from Heiligen-
blut that may be recommended to prac-
tised mountaineers, the ascent of the
Brennkogel is noticed inRte. C; and the
chief glacier passes are mentioned in
that and the following Etes. For the
ascent of the Hochnarr see § 52, Ete. B.
The only excursion of any importance
that remains to be noticed is the ascent
of the Johannisherg (11,425'). This is
the snow-clad cone seen in the back-
ground from the Franz-Josephs-Hohe,
and, from the neighbourhood of Heili-
genblut, to the rt. of the Glockner range.
The only account of the ascent known
to the writer is that given by Dr.
Euthner, save a brief notice in the
travellers' book of the hotel at Heiligen-
blut, of a previous ascent in 1844. The
chief interest of the excursion lies in
the experience that is gained of glacier
scenery and glacier travelling in all its
forms, and the view from the summit is
remarkable rather for the vast tract of
snow and glacier, that is seen on every
side, than for the distant panorama. In
these respects it appears to the wi-iter
that the Mittel-Barenkopf is at least as
■well situated, while it is far more con-
veniently accessible from Fusch than the
Johannisberg from Heiligenblut. The
way to the latter summit is by the
steep and crevassed branch of the
Pasterze Glacier that lies between
the base of the Glocknerwand and tha
242 CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
Klein-Burgstall, and then by the convex
snow-covered ridge that descends from
the summit towards the Klein-Burgstall.
Of coiirse, the usual appliances and pre-
cautions for high glacier expeditions
should not be neglected. The local
guides here are not sufficiently aware
of the importance of the rope as a safe-
guard. The main objection to this ex-
pedition rises from the rather tedious
return along the great glacier over the
same course that had been taken in the
ascent. There can be no doubt as to the
possibility of effecting a pass from Hei-
ligenblut to the head of the Stubachthal
(Rte. H) by the Oedenwinkelscharte
(10,473'), which is the lowest point in
the ridge connecting the Johannisbei^
with the Schneewinkel, and the ascent
of the former peak might well be taken
on the way. Dr. Euthner passed a
miserable night at the Wallnerhiitte,
near the lower end of the Pasterze Gla-
cier. Most travellers will prefer to start
from Heiligenblut some 2 or 3 hrs. be-
fore daybreak.
To the botanist who may devote a few
days to the neighbourhood of Heiligen-
blut, a notice of the localities for some
of the rarer species will be acceptable.
The steep slope on the 1. side of the
path, just below the lower end of the
Pasterze Glacier, is called Die Marga-
ritzen. Here may be found Juncus cas-
ianeus, Tofieldia bo?'ealis, Kobresia cari-
cina, Carex hicolor and C ttstulata,
Festtcca Scheuchzeri, &e. The slopes on
the NE. side of the Pasterze, and espe-
cially the Gamsgrube, produce many of
especial interest, e.g. Ranunculus pyre-
ficBus, Braya aljnna, Draha ZahlhrucTc-
neri, D. Johannis, and B. Wahlenhergii,
Bianthus barbatus and B. glacidis,
Phaca australis and P.frigida, Semper-
vivumBraunii, Cineraria longifolia, Sa-us-
svrea alpina and S. discolor, Leontodon
Taraxaci, Soyeria tnontana, many forms
of Hieracmm, Gent tana nana and G-.
prostrata, Pedicularis asplenifoUa, An-
drosace alpi?ia, Prinmla longiflora, Al-
lium victoriale, Carex fuliginosa, C.
Gebhardi, and G. clavceformis. On the
Way towards the Hochthor (Rte. C),
and on the slopes on either hand, are
found Oxytropis triflara, Leontodon Ta-
raxaci and Lomatogonium carinthiacmn,
with other rare species. The last-named
plant flowers about the beginning of
September, and is scarcely to be detected
at other seasons. Towards the head
of the Leiterthal may bo gathered
Eanuncultis rutaifolius, Viola pinnata,
Lychnis alpina, &c. The localities here
cited, and the ravine of the Fleiss, also
produce many very rare mosses. The
Apollo butterfly is common on the way
to the Pasterze, and a great variety C'f
alpine coleoptera will reward the re-
search of the entomologist. Here, as
elsewhere in the Alps, a varied flora in-
dicates variety in the mineral structure
of the surrounding ranges. The Gross-
glockner and the adjoining ranges are
now held by geologists to be composed
of metamorphic rocks of palaeozoic age,
which are distinguished from the crys-
talline slates and gneiss, that prevail
throughout the central range, by the
presence of a larger proportion of lime
and magnesia. There is a considerable
outburst of serpentine on the N. side of
Heiligenblut, and it seems to form part
of the Glockner range.
BOUTE C. — ST. WOLFGANG IN THE FUSCHER THAL.
243
EOUTE C.
BRUCK, IN PINZGAU, TO HErLIGEXBLUT,
BY THE FUSCHER THAL ASCENT OF
THE VISCHBACHHORN.
In the last Rte., the most frequented
road for travellers who visit Heiligen-
blut from the S. has been described.
Of those who approach that place from
the N. side, probably the larger number
take the way by Gastein (§ 52, Ete. A),
attracted by the European reputation
of that fashionable watering-place ; but
those who travel mainly to enjoy grand
natural scenery will doubtless prefer
the far more beautiful route through the
Fuscher Thai, locally called die Fusck,
which pours a copious torrent into the
Salza, at Bruck (§ 50, Ete. A), in the
Pinzgau. It has the advantage of offer-
ing a variety of passes across the main
chain to suit the taste and strength of
different classes of travellers.
Leaving the high-road at Bruck, the
traveller crosses the bridge over the
Salza, and keeps due S. along the rather
rough road leading to the chief village
of the valley. Some glimpses are gained
of the glaciers of the Brennkogel, the
summit of which is well seen from
Bruck ; but there is no object of special
interest in the space — about 1 hr. in a
char, or 1|- hr. on foot — between that
Tillage and
Fnsch (2,631'), only 187 ft. above
the bridge at Bruck. It has a very
fair, though somewhat rustic, inn, but
strangers are much better oflF at the
baths. The village stands at the junc-
tion of the Hirzbach with the main
torrent. That torrent originates in a
glacier on the N. declivity of the Hoch-
tenn (11.059'), and, after flowing about
3 m. a little E. of N. to the Hirzbach-
alp (5,633'), turns due E., and descends
to Fusch, near which it forms a fine
cascade. The Hirzhachthal contains
much to interest the mineralogist and
the botanist, and the scenery at its
upper end is very fine.
The road is just passable for light ve-
hicles as far as Em-pachcr, about 2 m.
I above Eusch, bxititis so rough that most
j travellers prefer to walk. Those bound
for the baths should prefer the very agi'ee-
able path on the E. side of the valley,
partly shaded by fine sycamores. This
leads in 1| hr. to the baths at the hamlet
of St. Wolfgang (3,750'), which is more
generally known as FxiscTier Bad. St.
Wolfgang stands at some height above,
and nearly a mile E. of the main valley,
at the lower end of the lateral glen of
the Weichselbach. The baths have long
been kno\vn, and a fine church formerly
stood near to them. This, with the
ancient bath-house and other buildings,
were utterly destroyed by a great ava-
lanche at the beginning of the last cen-
tury. The present church was then
built in a securer spot some way from
the older edifice. Three buildings for
the reception of guests are near at
hand, all belonging to Gr. Mayer, who
is an experienced chamois-hunter, and
is well acquainted with the neighbouring
Alps. Wlien these buildings are full,
as sometimes happens in the height of
summer, accommodation may be found
in another house belonging to J. Holzer,
better known as Euscher Hans. He is
an excellent guide, and acquainted with
the habitats of many rare plants. His
daughter also follows the profession of
guide.
Besides those who resort to this place
for the sake of the baths, usually as a
sequel to the regular coiu'se of G-astein
waters, it is in increasing favour with
German tourists, either as head-quarters
for Alpine excursions, or for the more
tranquil enjoyment of the beautiful
scenery of the neighbourhood. The
preference shown to it is well deserved :
for though no single peak here equals
the Glockner, and no glacier approaches
in beauty or extent the Pasterze, most
mountaineers will prefer this for a pro-
longed stay. The rock scenery of the
upper valley is of the highest order,
and the immediate neighbourhood is
laid out with some regard to the enjoy-
ment of visitors, while admirable points
of view, in which the noble peak of the
Yischbachhorn is the most prominent
2
244 CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
object, are near at hand. The water of
the mineral sprin^ is used both for
■warm baths and internally, and perhaps
the beneficial effects experienced in cases
of weak digestion and delicate nerves
are not diminished by the fact that the
mineral ingredients exist only in minute
quantities. To the taste the water dif-
fers in no respect from that of the
purest spring.
31. Mayer, the Eadmeister, rents the
shooting of the valley, and readily
gives his guests permission to follow
game, and to shoot at, and even to kill,
chamois, if they can.
The best guides here are Anton
Hutter, Jakob Erlinger (otherwise Win-
tinger), and the above-named Fuscher
Hans.
Among the many excursions to be
made from the baths, it is enough to
point out those most likely to interest
travellers of various capacities. Those
■who cannot undertake more than a mere
stroll may best ascend the Kasercck
(o,24:o'). easily reached in li hr. It
lies northward of the baths, and imme-
diately overlooks the main valley of
Fusch. A much more extensive pano-
rama is gained from the KuhAahrJccypf
(7,443'), NE. of St. Wolfgang, reached in
3 hrs. by an easy walk over Alpine pas^
tures. This is better suited for ladies than
the ascent of the SchwarzJcopf {^,012'),
which rises nearly due S. of the baths,
exactly opposite the Vischbachhorn, and
is the highest point in the range dividing
Fusch from Eauris. There is no diffi-
culty in the ascent, but a snow slope of
some extent usually must be crossed,
and the way, over shattered rocks, is in
places very rough. The panorama is
one of the finest to be gained from a
summit of such moderate height, and
decidedly superior to that from the
G-amskahrkogel above Gastein (§ 52, Ete.
A). The view from the Grosskoff
(7,290') is not quite equal to that from
the Kiihkahrkopf, but it lies convenient
for the traveller taking the pass of the
Weichselbachwand (§o2, Ete. B), andean
be ascended ■wnth very little loss of tinip.
The ascent of the Vischbachhorn, which
I is for a practised mountaineer the most
j attractive object in this valley, is noticed
I lower down. Those who do not attempt
I any of the glacier passes described be-
j low should on no account fail to go as
1 far as the Trauner Alp, and visit the
j adjoining glen of the Kaferthal.
I Whichever route to Heiligenblut the
traveller may intend to take, he muht
follow the main valley for a distance of
fully 2 hrs. above St. "Wolfgang. If he
start from that place, he should take a
path along the E. side of the Fuscher
Thai, which at first keeps at a great
height above the stream. It is narrow,
rough in places, with many ups and
dowus, but very agreeable, at times
I enjoying the shade of fine old pine
trees, at others commanding fine -views
j of the snowy peaks at the head of the
; valley. It finally approaches the level
of the Fuscher Ache, and crosses to the
1. bank, where it joins the ordinary
J track from the village of Fusch, a short
'\ way below
[ Fcrleiten (3,772'), a hamlet ■^^th a few
! poor-lookirig houses. Formerly there
I was no accommodation for strangers
I except at the TauernJiaKs, a sort of
I chalet inn which is to be found in most
i of the valleys of this district at the
i foot of each of the frequented passes
I leading across the main chain. Of late
! years, an inn has been opened, which
[ supplies tolerably good Cjuarters. There
I have been some complaints of excessive
i charges. The situation is very fine,
i commanding grand views, and con-
i venient for glacier excursions. The
head of the Fuscher Thai is divided from
that of the 31511 by the portion of the
main chain extending from the Mittel-
Barenkopf to the Brennkogel. (See
description of the Easterze Glacier in
last Ete.) Though it does not include
any first-rate peak — the highest being
the Fuscher Kahrkopf (10,957')— this
opposes a formidable barrier between the
adjoining valleys. It sinks at one point
only — the Efan del sch arte — below the
level of 9,000 ft., but that depression is
guarded by a small glacier, and the
only way practicable for beasts of bur^
ROUTE C. — PASS OF THE PFANDELSCHARTE,
245
den is liy traversing the ridge on the I
X. side of the Brennkogel to the head,
of one of the branches of the adjoining ■
valiey of Kauris, and thence reaching I
Heiligenblut by the Hochthor pass. '
Prom the ]Mittel-Barenkopf, a very high !
range extends to NE., wliich culminates '
in the Vispachhorn, and divides the :
upper part of Fusch from Kaprun. !
The passes leading from Ferleiten to j
Heiligenblut are now to be noticed.
1. JJi/ the Fuschci' Thbrl and Hoch-
thor, 7 to 8 hrs., exclusive of halts. —
The path follows the 1. bank for about
^ hr. above Ferleiten; and, on reaching
the first group of Mitten, crosses
the main torrent, and commences the
ascent to the Fuseher Thorl. It should
be remembered that no house of any
kind is passed between this point and
Heiligenblut, and the prudent traveller
will carr}^ some provisions for the jour-
ney. The slope is rather steep, but the
path makes many windings, and is not
easily missed. Half-way in the ascent
is the Petersbrunnen (7,014'), an excel-
lent spring. Beyond it, the ascent is
more gentle, and in 3 hrs. from the
point where he leaves the torrent, the
traveller reaches the summit of the
Fuseher Thbrl (7,998'). Throughout the
ascent, and at last from the summit, |
the traveller is often tempted to turn i
round and enjoy the grand views of tlie
snowy peaks which he leaves behind
him, and on this account this pass is
taken to much more advantage from
the Heiligenblut side. It lies on the
Is. side of the Brennkogel, and crosses
the range that divides Kauris from
Fusch. An outline sketch of the view
from the summit is given in the ' Jahr-
buch of the Austrian Alpine Club for
1867.'
The traveller must beware of de-
scending from the Thorl to SE., along
the course of a little stream that flows
into the head of the Seidelwinkelthal
(§ 62, Kte. B). His true direction lies
ne irly due S., along the stony slopes E.
of the Brennkogel. The path at first
descends a little, but remounts nearly
to the level of the Fuseher Thorl before
it is joined by the path from Kauris,
passing, on the way, a cleft in the rocks
called Mitter Thorl. At most seasons of
the year, considerable snow slopes lie
on the N. side of the Hochthor ; but
in autumn these nearly disappear. The
guides point out a place where a pro-
cession of pilgrims, going from Fusch
to Heiligenblut on June 28, were sur-
prised by a snow-storm, accompanied
by piercing wind, and all but two were
frozen to death. Posts are placed at short
intervals, to mark the path when it is
concealed by snow. About H hr. from
the Fuseher Thorl, or oi hrs. from Fer-
leiten, the traveller reaches the
Hochthor (8,0.51'), the easiest and
most frequented pass over this part of
the main range. On the S. side, Alpine
pastures extend nearly to the summit,
and the botanist will find many inter-
esting plants (see last Kte.). The
descent is at first gentle, gradually in-
creasing in steepness. The view, which
was not extensive as long as the track
lay at the head of the Seidelwinkelthal,
now opens over a wide range of distant
peaks, in which those of the Schober
group are the most prominent. About
1 hr. below the summit, the Gross-
gloekner is for the first time uncovered,
and no true mountaineer can behold
that beautiful peak without longing to
attain its summit. Amid very pleasing
scenery, the sinuous path descends to
Heiligenblut (described in the last Kte.).
2. By the Tfandclscharte. — Under
ordinary circumstances, 7 hrs., exclusive
of halts, from Ferleiten, is amply suffi-
cient ; but, -with fresh and soft snow,
another hour should be allowed. The
local estimate of 1 1 hrs. from St. "Wolf-
gang to Heiligenblut is certainly ex-
cessive. The pass of the Pfaudelscharte
and the small glacier leading to it are
almost constantly in view as the tra-
veller ascends to the valley above Fer-
leiten, and, in clear weather, the prac-
tised mountaineer has no need of a
local guide for this pass. He should
take care not to approach too near a
spot where masses of ice fall from a
higher level on the glacier near the
24G CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
point where he first enters on it. Cross- i
ing the stream of the Fuseher Ache by j
the same bridge that leads to the Fu-
t^cber Thcirl, the broad track, passable for
carts that carry cheese down to Bruck,
ascends gradually along the E. side of '
tiie valley — the views of the grand rock |
scenery opposite constantly increasing |
in beauty — till the traveller, in l^- hr. 1
from Ferleiten, reaches the Trauncr ■.
Alp (4,948'). The Sennhiitte here, be- i
longing to the innkeeper, Trauner "Wirth, |
in Hundsdorf, near Bruck, is a large j
establishment, very superior to ordinary '
chalets, and would be found a good stop- 1
ping-place for the night by a traveller |
intent on a glacier expedition. Imme- '
diately "W. of the Alp opens the grand
rocky glen of the Kciferthal, in which ;
Dr. Euthner counted fourteen water- j
f;ills of the Staubbach family. The range
at the head of the Fusch Valley, over \
which the traveller seeks a passage to j
Heiligenblut, extends nearly due east- |
ward from the Fv.scher KahrJcopf
(10,9o7') to the Brcnnlcogd (9,895'), the
chief summits (reckoned from "W. to E.)
being*;he5met/x7ZcfA-( 10,733') and 6^G//i.s-
knhrkapf (9,349'), then the adjoining
pf^aks of the Spillmann (9,959') and
Klohen (10,011'), which are connected I
by a high snow plat'^au with the Brenn- ;
kogel. The Pfandelscharte lies W. of I
the latter peaks, dividing them from ;
the Gamskahrkopf. The soutliern and
highest summit of this latter mountain |
is sometimes called Barenkopf ; but, as j
there are already four adjoining peaks \
bearing that name, it is highly desirable
that it should be laid aside. Going at ;
a moderatf^ pace, 1^ hr. (or 3 hrs. ;
from Ferleiten) suffice for the ascent
from the Trauner Alp to the point \
■where it is expedient to enter on the
glacier, which is called Schartenkees. !
With moderate care, there is neither j
risk nor difficulty in the passage. To
the 1., a secondary glacier descends ,
from the flanks of the Kloben, and :
masse.? of ice from above occasionally
fall. The fragments seen on the glacier
fihow the places which ought to be \
avoided. Towards the summit the ice !
gives place to neve, which is easily tra-
versed, as crevasses appear to be few
and narrow. The slope diminishes in
steepness, and the channel of the glacier,
which has been confined between a range
of rocks belonging to the Spillmann
on the 1., and another from the Gams-
karkopf on the rt., opens out to the S.,
as the traveller attains the summit of
the Vfandchcharte, 8,817 ft. above the
sea, in 2^ hrs. from the Trauner Alp.
The view from the top of the pass is
confined, and it is advisable to descend
at least \ hr., bearing towards the
slopes of turf on the rt. of the glacier,
in order the better to enjoy the admir-
able view of the Glockner range and
the great Pasterze Glacier, which is no-
where else seen to greater advantage.
The active traveller, who has started
in time from Ferleiten, or even from
St. "Wolfgang, may find time to make
the slight detour to the Johannishiitte,
but most travellers content themselves
with what they see without leaving the
direct way. The faintly marked track
descends by the rt. bank of the torrent,
sometimes called Pfandelbach, some-
times Schartenbaeh. passing the Schaf-
lochhiitte, to the Wallnerhiitte, where
the traveller joins the beaten track
leading from the Pasterze Glacier to
Heiligenblut. That village is easily
reached in Z\ or Z\ hrs. from the sum-
mit.
In fine weather, this pass, which is
practicable for all per.sons moderately
used to mountain excursions, offirs two
of the finest views in this region, and
deserves to be reckoned among the
finest in the Alps.
3. By the Bockkahrscharte, 8 hrs. from
Ferleiten. — Although it is difficult to
overrate the attractions of the Pfandel-
scharte Pass, many mountaineers will
prefer a route leading more directly
through the heart of the great mass of
glacier Ipng between the 3Ioll, Fusch,
and Kaprun valleys. From the Fusch
side, this must be approached by either
of the considerable glaciers that descend
into the K'dferthal, which has been al-
ready mentioned as the highest SW.
ROUTE C. PASS OF THE BOCKKAHRSCHARTE.
247
branch of the Fuscher Thai, and is often
visited by tourists from the baths of St.
Wolfgang. To make the description of
the route more clear, it is necessary to
refer to the great range extending NNE.
from the Mittel-Barenkopf between Fusch
and Kaprun, whose peaks exceed in
height those of the adjoining portion of
the main range. It will be seen by re-
ference to the maps of Keil or Sonklar
that this is a chain whose separate links
are disposed in a direction transverse to
itself, the chief summits being arranged
in pairs, connected by four short parallel
ridges, running WNW. to ESE. Be-
ginning at the end nearest the main
range, we have first the ridge connecting
the Gross-Bdrenkoirf (11,470') with the
Hohe Dock (10,909'); next that joining
the Glockerin (11,356') with the Brat-
schenkopf{ 11,126"); followed by the less
defined ridge which terminates towards
Kaprun in the Fochezkogel (10,118'),
and towards Fusch in the great peak of
the V-ischbachhor?i {11,7 S8'); and finally
that connecting the Klem- Vischbackhorn
(10,790') with the Sandbode7ikogel. A
promontory extending northward from
the Klein-Vischbachhorn includes the
peaks of the Hochtenu (11,059') and
the Braehkopf {1Q,QW)-
As the southernmost of the ridges here
mentioned is much higher than the pa-
rallel portion of the main range between
the Mittel-Barenkopf and the Breitkopf,
it was long believed that the former con-
stituted the NW. limit of the neve-basin
of the Pasterze; and on Schlagintweit's
and other maps that glacier is made to
extend to the foot of the Hohe Dock.
Through recent explorations, especially
those of Dr. Euthner and M. F. Keil, a
considerable glacier, fully 2 m. in length,
lying between the main range and the
Hohe Dock ridge, has been made known
and mapped. This is the Bockkahrkees.
Descending to ESE. by the N. side of
the Breitkopf (10,320')— also called
Bockkahrkopf — it meets the Fuscher
Kahrkees,\f\u.c\\ flows to NNE., by the E.
side of the same summit, and the united
ice-streams descend into the head of the
Kaferthal in a fine ice-fall, known as
the Wasserfall-Glctscher, where it reaches
the level of 6,194 ft. The name is de-
rived from the many waterfalls fed from
the upper level of the glacier that fall
over the rocks into the Kaferthal. It
was supposed in Fusch that the AYas-
serfall - Gletscher and both its upper
branches were impassable, but Mr.
Tuckett, with Christian Aimer, in the
course of an expedition made in bad
weather in 1866, being misled by a local
guide in a sno«'-storm, proved the pos-
sibility of traversing both the Bockkahr-
kees and the Fuscher Kahrkees. Having
ascended by the latter to the F^ischer
Kah7-scharte (9, 4:36'), they passed by the
W. side of the Breitkopf to the Bock-
kahrscharte, descended the Bockkahrkees
nearly to the junction of the two glaciers,
and, having thus lost 4 hrs., reascended
to the Fuscher Kahrscharte, and thence
descended to Heiligeublut, The course
described by Dr. Euthner — the most
persevering and successful explorer of
this district — under the guidance of
Eoderer, an excellent local guide, now
deceased, is probably a little longer,
but appears to the writer to promise
more variety and interest.
Keeping constantly to the path along
the 1. bank of the Fuscher Ache, and
ascending the slope on the rt. hand as it
approaches the opening of the Kaferthal,
the traveller reaches in 1^ hr. from Fer-
leiten the Judenalp, lying just opposite
to the Trauner Alp, mentioned above on
the way to the Pfandelscharte. Above
the Judenalp, the W. declivity of the
Fuscher Thai rises in very steep slopes,
intersected by transverse bands of still
steeper rock. To the NW. these slopes
lead up to the base of the precipices
that miist be climbed in the ascent of
the Vischbachhorn ; due W. they lead
up to the Etniskopf, which is connected
with the base of the Hohe Dock by a
ridge called Eemsschartel. The S. face
of the Hohe Dock shows towards the
glacier a range of formidably high and
steep precipices, intersected transversely
by a ledge covered with lo se debris.
Along this a man with sure foot and
steady head may pass without difficulty,
248
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS ^51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
but the unpractised traveller 7night find
it danjrerous. The length of this ledge,
known to the hunters of the valley as
the Hoy. Gang, is counted as | hr., or
about a mile. At its W. end it gradu- j
ally approaches the level of the glacier I
at a point far above the ice-fall. Here, j
by a short descent over debris, and with |
some trouble from lateral crevasses, the
traveller enters on tJie glacier, and tra- \
verses it in a SW. direction to the de- i
pression of the Bock/cohrscharte (9,991').
A few ft. above the lowest point, and on
the 1. hand, are some bare rocks at the
W. base of the Breitkopf, which afford
a pleasant halting-place, whence the
traveller may survev the surrounding
glaciers. Of distant view, there is little
to be seen. He wdll at once perceive
that he has entered on the neve-basin
of that eastern branch of the Pasterze
G-lacier which joins the main stream on |
the SE. side of the Gross-Burgstall (as j
described in the last Rte.); while the j
main neve-basin of the Pasterze is sepa- i
rated by an ice-covered ridge — a mere |
convexity in the surface of the upper j
glacier — that extends NXE. from the
Hohen Burgstall. At the point where
that ridge intersects the main range,
^STW. of the Bockkahrscharte, this rises
into a slightly projecting eminence called
the Emrandbiihl (10,395'). In the de-
scent from the Scharte, it is best to keep
to the 1. under the slope of the Breitkopf,
and then, leaving on one side the Fus-
cher Kahrscharte, along the W. base of
the Puscherkahrkopf. There are many
concealed crevasses, and the rope should
not be cast aside till the glacier is left
high above its junction with the main
stream. Descending the slopes of the
Gamsgrube, the traveller reaches the
Johannishiitte in about -ii hrs. from the
Judenalp, and thence descends by the
ordinary way to Heiligenblut.
Inasmuch as the object of choosing
this route is to obtain a thorough ac-
quaintance with the great glacier region
rf the Bockkahr and upper Pasterze, it
appears that this would be more com-
pletely attained by crossing the main
range near the head of the Bockkahrkees.
It is likely that this may be effected by
the 8E. side of the Mittel-Barenkopf ;
and if time permit the ascent of the latter
summit, where the frontier of Carinthia
meets the valleys of Fusch and Kaprun,
the view cannot fail to offer much inte-
rest. The easiest way thence would
doubtless be by the X. side of the Hohen
BurgstdU, crossing the E. branch of the
Pasterze to the slopes of the Gamsgrubf,
but in the early summer experienced
ice-men may cut their way down the
great upper ice-f;ill of the Pasterze, be-
tween the Klein- and Grross-Burgstall,
as did Mr. Tuckett's party in 1865, with
P. Devouassoud and Peter Michel as
guides.
It will be seen from what is said above
that the Fuscher Kahrscharte is to be
added to the list of passes leading from
Fusch to Heiligenblut. When better
known, it will probably be found little
longer than the Pfandelscharte. In
addition to the list of passes properly so
called, the mountaineer, in favourable
weather, may also include among possi-
ble routes that over the summit of the
Brennkogd (9,895'). Of late years this
has become a common excursion ; it is
no way difficult for anyone moderately
used to mountain walking, and is but
little longer than the way over the Fu-
scher Thorl and Hochthor. The shortest
way to reach the summit is by the ridge
that mounts to it from the Fuscher Thorl,
but this involves some stiff scrambling ;
and the more usual andeasier way is by
the slopes above the Mitter Thorl, about
half-way between the Fuscher Thorl and
Hochthor. From the summit, which
is formed of shattered rocks, a very fine
view is obtained of the peaks enclosing
the Pasterze Glacier, and those of the
Fuscherkamm, but to SSW. the pano-
rama is interrupted by the somewhat
higher summits of the Bacherin (10,158')
'ji.vAKaseroclclcopfi^.^1^'), which form a
short ridge (parallel to the 3Iollthal), that
here rises between the head of that val-
ley and the main range. A rather con-
siderable glacier, fed by the snows of
the Brennkogel and the adjoining peak
of the Kloben, flows northward on the
ROUTE C. ASCENT OF THE VISCHBACHIIOnN.
249
W. side of the rid<;e leading to the Fu-
scher Thorl; and another, less consider-
able, originates on the 8. side of the
ridge connecting the Brennkogel with the
Spiilmann. The latter is drained through
the narrow glen of the Giitthal, which
runs due S. towards the Moll. After
joining the Tauernbach, that descends
from the Hoehthor, this torrent joins
the main stream at Winkel, above Heili-
genbhit, where it is crossed by touris;s
on the way to the Pasterze Glacier.
Tlirough the Gutthal lies the way from
the Brennkogel to Heiligenblut, It is
better not to descend due S. into the
head of the glen, but to bear a little to
the 1., and pass along the W, side of the
Brettersee, a tarn whose^stream joins that
of the Gutthal. Following the 1. bank
of the torrent, the highest alp in that
glen is reached, and then the track to the
1. is taken, which crosses the Tauernbach
above its junction with the Gutihal.
Immediately beyond it is the Muriahilf-
Kapelle (5,197'). where the traveller
joins the bridle-track from the Hoehthor
to Heiligenblut.
The mountaineer who does not object
to a stiff scramble, and to add fully 1
hr. to his day's walk, may well follow
the example of Dr. Euthner, and take
the summit of the Kloben on his way
from FerleHen to the Brennkogel. The
way is \,y the Trauner Alp and the
track mounting thence to the Pfandel-
scharte (see above). Bearing to the 1.,
the traveller enters a ravine, and then
ascends a long and steep slope, called
the Schwarze Leiter. The crumbling
nature of the rock — a calcareous mica-
schist — makes this rather difficult, and
even dangerous, for unpractised climbers.
After gaining the ridge, he follows it
eastward to the peak of the Klohcn
(10,011 '). Though surrounded on every
side by glacier or snow-slopes, the sum-
mit is covered with vegetation, which
here reaches an unusual height. In
1857, owing to the unusual heat of the
season, a ridge of rock lying somewhat
S. of E. from the summit was stripped
of the snow which had long concealed
it, and the process was repeated in 1859.
Here, at 9,580 ft. above the sea, were
found the ruins of a miner's hut (Knap-
jjcnhaus), with the opening of two shafts,
and a quantity of iron-ore that had been
extracted. Among the ruin;?. Dr. Euth-
ner found fragments of cloth clothing,
and several large bones, but he failed to
ascertain whether these were human re-
mains. It is most i:)robab]e that thi.s
was one of the many spots in this part of
the Alps where gold has been extracted ;
but though most of these are well
known, no record or local tradition re-
lating to a mine on the Kloben has been
discovered. The fact s must be reckoned
among the numerous evidences of an
increasing accumulation of snow in the
higher regions of the Alps during the
last 300 or 400 years. The mine, as
well as the summit of the Kloben, He
on the N. side of the dividing range,
which passes from the summit of the
Spiilmann to that of the Brennkogel.
Before closing the account of the Fu-
scher Thai, it is necessary to add a short
notice of the ascent of the Vischhachhom
(11,738') — perhaps more correctly writ-
ten Wiesbachhmm ; but we follow the
local pronunciation. This is not only
the highest peak of the Fusch range,
but one of the highest and noblest in
the Eastern Alps ; the only one which by
its extreme steepness and the boldness
of its form maintains an imposing ap-
pearance as seen from the summit of the
Grossglockner. On the Fuscher Thai
side, it shows ranges of formidably steep
precipices, surrounded by glaciers lying
on the upper shelves of the mountain,
that are broken at their lower end into
threatening crags of flue ice. The as-
cent may in many respects be compared
to that of the Finsteraarhorn, to which
mountain it bears much resemblance,
save that: instead of rising on either side
above surrounding glaciers, it pluncjes
its roots into the comparatively deep
valleys of Fusch and Kaprun, whence it
rises very abruptly through a vertical
height of about 7,000 ft. The first
ascent was made some fifty years ago
by hunters of the valley; the second,
in 1841, by Prince Schwarzenberg, Car-
250
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
dinal Archbishop of Salzburg. The
third, by Dr. Ruthner and Count D.
Andrassy, -nras effected in 1854, and is
recounted by the former in his often-
quoted work, * Aus den Tauern.' The
place in the Fuscher Thai nearest the
base of the mountain is the Vogallalp,
about ^ hr. above Ferleiten ; but as it
is necessary to attack the peak from the
S. side, it has been found expedient to
pass the night at the Judenalp, some
miles farther up, on the N. side of the
entrance to the Kaferthal. The main
peak falls in nearly vertical cliffs towards
the valley, and sends out to NE. a
rather long ridge, whose SE. face of
bare rock appears absolutely inaccessi-
ble ; while its northern slope sustains a
glacier called Sajidhodenkecs, which ap-
pears no less hopeless. To the S. of the
highest peak is seen the Bratschenkopf
(11,126'), which is in fact the ESE. end
of a ridge whose "WNW. summit is the
Glockerin (11,356'). The outlet of the
great snow-basin between this ridge and
the highest part of the mountain is by
a glacier called TeufelsmuMkees\ which,
on reaching the verge of the precipices
facing the Fuscher Thai, breaks away so
as to form a range of high ice cliffs.
Although the precipices on the E. side
of the Bratschenkopf are very high and
extremely steep, they are passable to
a mountaineer with a perfectly steady
head, accustomed- to stiff rock climbing.
Having attained a considerable height
above the final ice-fall of the Teufels-
miihlkees, that glacier may be traversed
with little difficulty ; and by this, and
by steep snow-slopes above it, the base
of the final arete is reached. This
mounts NXE. to the highest peak, and
is apparently neither so steep nor so
narrow as that of the Glockner. The
ahe main valley, where the tor-
rent of the Kaiser Thai (Rte. H) enters
it from the NNE. Up to this point, the
road ascending the valley has kept a
NW. direction, and the slope has been
insensible. Here it turns a little to the
rt., about NNW., and begins to mount
rather more steeply through the much
narrower valley, which gradually con-
tracts to a defile, but soon opens again
into a comparatively wide basin, backed
by the Ki-ystallkcypf (9,859'), which is
the easternmost summit of the Eicham
range dividing Virgen from Frosnitz, and
the more distant WildenJcogel (9.900'),
rising N. of the Frosnitzthal. In the
midst of this picturesque basin, over-
looked by the old castle of Weissenstein,
stands
Windisch-Matrey (3,237'), the chief
place in the Iselthal, with a good inn
(Rauterer's), which may serve as head-
quarters for excursions among the
neighbouring valleys. As the name
expresses, this place was originally
founded by a Slavonic (Wendisch) tribe,
who were, perhaps, allowed to settle
here when the Germanic population,
under the Boyoar dukes, successfully
resisted the onward tide of Slavonic
invasion, through the Drave valley, in
the seventh century.
L. Stocker, Joh. Kraissler, and Andra
Eder are recommended as guides for
the neighbouring passes.
Due W. of Matrey is the opening of
the Virgenthal (Rte. Gr), which drains
the S. side of all the highest peaks of the
Venediger group, and is to the moun-
taineer the most attractive of the tri-
butary valleys of the Iselthal. In the
opposite direction mounts the path that
leads eastwards from Matrey to Kals,
described in Rte. I. Above Matrey, tlie
name Isel is preserved by the torrent
that flows from the Virgenthal, and
justly so, as it is the most copious
branch of the stream ; but the writer
agrees with Sonklar in regarding as the
main branch of the valley that which
leads to the Velber Tauern. It is not,
perhaps, an unimportant fact that the
deepest depression in the range of the
High Tauern should correspond with the
head of the principal valley on the S.
side of that range. The northern
branch of the valley, described below,
is locally best known by the desig-
nation Tauern thai, though the upper end
is also called Gschlossthal.
[The antiquary should on no account
omit to visit two ancient churches in
this neighbourhood. That of St. Nicho-
las, on the S. side of the Isel, at the
opening of the Virgenthal, is easily
reached in ^ hr. from Windisch-Matrey.
The building suffered from an earthr
quake in the seventeenth, and from a fire
in the eighteenth century. The E. end
dates from the firsthalf of the fourteenth
century, and was built over a crypt of
perhaps still earlier date. In this part of
the building, now used as a belfry and con-
siderably lower than the pavement of the
256
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
modern church, are the n mains of some
very curious frescoes in Byzantine style,
the greater part of which are apparently
still concealed by the -svhite-wash •which
was laid over them at the time of the
rebuilding of the church, and may pro-
bal'ly be still removed. Of still grf-ater
interest is the church of Obcr-Mauer,
about half-way to Pregratten (Kte. G).
This is also very ancient, but repaired
or altered at various subsequent periods.
Outside, the most remarkable feature is
the complete absence of windows on the
N. side. This is explained on entering
the church by the fact that the entire
wall on that side is covered by paintings
in fresco, which evidently date from the
earliest period of German art. On one
of the most ancient. Prof. Fenzl, who
has given a notice of these churches in
the 'Mittheilungen of the Austrian Al-
pine Club for 1S63,' traced the date U-16,
while others may probably belong to the
latter part of the fifteenth century. Of
greater artistic merit are other frescoes
in the same church, especially a votive
picture on the S, side near the high
altar.]
The char-road ends at Windisch-Mat-
rey, and soon after leaving that place,
the Tauernthal gradually narrows until,
after passing Proseck (3,578'), it becomes
a mere defile, through which the track
keeps to the rt. bank until, after passing
opposite a fine waterfall of the Steiner-
bach, it crosses to the opposite side of
the Tauernbach. The valley opens a
little at the junction of the fine lateral
glen of Prosnitz, noticed in the next
Ete. ; but the path keeps to the 1. bank
until about ^ ra. beyond the entrance of
that glen, when it returns for a short
time to the W. side of the torrent, but
before long — at the junction of the
Petersbach— for the last time recrosses
that stream. Thenceforth, till it reaches
the Tauernhaus, it remains on the E.
side of the valley. Rather more than
2| hrs. from Matrey, the traveller reaches
the Landecksacre (4,219'), where the
torrent from the LandecJdhal, after
rushing through a narrow cleft, descends
in a waterfall to the level of the main
valley. [Through the Landeckthal lies
a very unfrequented way to the W.
branch of the Stubachthal (Rte. H)
over the Ocdscharte (about 8,300'?), on
the E. side of the LandeckAopf (9,439').
The passage is said to be difficult and
dangerous, owing to the crevassed con-
dition of a small glacier that must be
traversed.] Here the Tauernthal, which
had bent aside to the N., resumes its
NNW. direction, and the track leads in
less than H hr. to the
Matrey ir Tauernhaus (4,957')? where
refreshments, and, in case of need,
rough accommodation for the night may
be found. In fine weather, a guide over
the Velber Tauern is not required hy
anyone well used to mountain walking,
but when clouds lie low, the track may
easily be missed. At first the path
keeps parallel to the main torrent, cross-
ing the Meselinbach — a stream that
descends from the NE. close to the
Tauernhaus — but it soon leaves on the
1. hand the cattle-track that goes nearly
due W. to the Gschlossalp (see next
Rte.), and begins to mount diagonally in
a NW. direction till it approaches the
streamlet that descends from the Velber
Tauern. Here the course bends round
to NE., parallel to that streamlet, and
at some height above its 1. bank, and
finally turns nearly due N. Two huts,
intended as refuges for travellers, are
passed on the way, at the higher of
which {\ hr. below the summit) a store
of firewood is kept to relieve those who
attempt the passage in inclement weather.
During the ascent, the traveller gains
fine views of the great Schlaten Glacier,
and enjoys a distant prospect both to
N. and S. on attaining the summit of
the
Velber Tanern (8,024'), in about 3 hrs.
from the Matreyer Tauernhaus. The
scenery of the head of the Velber Thai,
through which lies the way to ]\Iittersill,
is impressive from its extreme wildness.
Blocks of hornblende slate, intermixed
with patches of snow, cover the slopes,
and small dark tarns lie in the hollows,
while on the W. side the sombre rocks
of the Freiwand, terminating in the peak
ROUTE F. — WIXDISCH-MATREY TO THE PINZGAU.
257
of the Taiiernkogd (9,790') enhance the
stern effect of the whole. A rapid de-
scent leads down to a little level marshy
space called — like many similar spots
in the Tauern Alps — Nassfeld. Lower
down, the track passes at some height
above the E. side of the Hmtersee
(4,354'), a comparatively large lake, said
to have been caused by a Bergfall at the
time of the earthquake of 1495, which
was severely felt in this part of the
Alpine chain. Numerous torrents, de-
scending the steep walls of the valley in
brawling cataracts, converge towards the
basin of the lake. Henceforward the
track descends gently along the rt. bank
of the Velber Bach to the upper Tauem-
haus, called Spital. Better accommoda-
tion, how'ever, is found at Schosswend
(3,537'), about 20 min. lower down, on
the 1. bank of the torrent. This, which
is also known as the Vorder-Tauernhaus,
offers the best accommodation between
3Iatrey and Mittersill, Half an hour's
walk below Schosswend, the torrent joins
a rather more considerable stream that
issues from the E. branch of the Velber
Thai — locally called Ammerthal, or more
commonly, die Oed. Some way below the
junction, the path, which since Schoss-
wend has followed the 1. bank, crosses
to the opposite side of the valley, and
for some miles lies over a nearly level
tract, part of which appears to be the
bed of an ancient filled-up lake. The path
keeps near to the main torrent, which
is crossed three times before it finally
descends into the valley of the Salza.
At its mouth the Velber Thai appears to
be barred across by a transverse ridge,
partly cut through by the torrent, which
at last descends, in a leap of nearly 300
feet, to the level of the Pinzgau. In the
angle between the Salza and the Velber
Bach stands
Mittersill (§50, Rte. A). The way
from the Matreyer Tauernhaus to the
head of the Velber Thai may be varied
by taking the now abandoned track of
the Alte Tauern, lying about ^ m. E. of
the pass above described. From the
Tauernhaus the way mounts NE., by
the 1. bank of the Meselinhach. till it
reaches a tarn called Grimer See. Here
the course turns to NNW., and, after
passinganother Alpine lake, ascends over
slopes of debris to a little glacier that
covers the ridge. The course was for-
merly marked by poles, but some caution
is needed, as there are some concealed
crevasses, which led to the abandonment
of this route.
A more interesting, but perhaps diffi-
cult, pass may probably be effected from
the Griiner See to the head of the Am-
merthal, or E. branch of the Velber
Thai, on either side of the Thorlkopf
(9,583'). The scenery of that glen,
which may be visited from Mittersill or
Schosswend, is said to be very fine, and
it offers many attractions to the botanist.
EOUTE F.
WIXDISCH-MATREY TO NEUKIRCHEX, OR
WAXD, IN PINZGAU. ASCENT OF THE
GROSSVENEDIGER.
In the last Rte. was described the
easiest and most direct way for a tra-
veller wishing to reach the Pinzgau from
Lienz, but, if moderately favoured by
weather, the lover of fine scenery will
scarcely be content to pass near to
258
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
a considerable glacier region without
gaining a further glimpse of it than he
may do in the ascent of the Velber
Tauern. For the practised mountaineer,
there is a choice among various passes
by which the Pinzgau may be reached in
two days from Lienz, but as none of these
can be descri'ied as easy, the ordinary
tourist may content himself with a visit
to Gschloss and the Frosnitzthal, and
then explore the southern glaciers of the
Venediger group from the Virgenthal.
A few notes on the topography of the
district may be useful, nay, even essen-
tial, to those who do not possess one or
other of the maps named in the intro-
duction to this section. In regard to
the nomenclature of some summits and '
passes, and slight topographical de- j
tails, there are dififerences between F. |
Keil's more highly finished map, pub- j
lished in the ' Jahrbuch of the Austrian j
Alpine Club for 1866,' and Sonklar's i
map on a smaller scale, annexed to his i
' Hohe Tauern.' The writer has followed \
the one or the other according as the ;
author appears to be supported by direct |
observation on the spot. j
It was remarked in the introduction to j
this section that the western portion of I
the High Tauern range, which culminates \
in the Grossvenediger, extends about 14
m. EXE. from the Dreiherrnspitz to the
Velber Tauern, between the basin of
the Salza and that of the Isel, and, in
the opposite direction, for about 16 m.
WSW. from the same peak, dividing the
Ahrenthal from the western affluents of
the Isel.
From the neighbourhood of the Drei-
herrnspitz and the Grossvenediger, but
especially from the latter, numerous ac-
cessory ridges, rivalling in height the i
peaks of the main range, diverge to
NNW. towards the Salza, or in the op-
posite direction towards the Virgenthal,
and hence it happens that the confor-
mation of this group is very favourable
to the formation of considerable glaciers,
but not so to that of prominent peaks.
Although the actual summit of the Gross-
Tenediger is a very sharp ridge, the i
peak is only the highest central summit i
out of many surrounding rivals, one or
other of which may easily be taken for
it when seen from different sides. But
on the other hand, few mountains of such
moderate height display so ample an
ice-mantle. From the peak, and its
closely adjoining subordinate summits,
no less than nine great glaciers descend
into the surrounding valleys. Most of the
higher summits of this group appear to
be accessible without much difficulty,
and the practised mountaineer -n-ill find
here scope for many new excursions, al-
though M. F. Keil, Prof. Simony, and
other Austrian mountaineers have al-
ready done much towards its thorough
exploration. Under the present heading,
the expeditions are briefly noticed that
may be made by a mountaineer wishing
to cross to the Upper Pinzgau from the
Isel-Tauernthal. It will be remarked
that no less than four valleys descend
from the main range towards thp Salza
between the Velber Thai and the Krimm-
ler Thai. It is most probable that, when
the range is more fully known, each of
these will offer at least one practicable
pass to the mountaineer, but as these
are «till imperfectly known, we give
precedence to that which is likely to at-
tract the larger number of travellers —
the way over the summit of the Gross-
venediger (12.053').
Though it appears certain that the high-
est peak was reached at the end of the last
century, the mountain was in the neigh-
bouring valleys supposed inaccessible,
and its reputation was confirmed by
an accident which happened in 1828,
when the late Archduke John attempted
the ascent, and one of his guides was
carried down a steep incline by an
avalanche. In 1841, the summit was at-
tained by MM. Lasser, Euthner, Graven-
egg, and a numerous party from the
Pinzgau, who ascended from the Obersiilz-
bachthal. A much shorter and easier way
from the S. side has since been frequently
followed (see Ere. G), and another
equally easy route has more recently
been found from the Gschloss Alp at the
head of the Isel-Tauernthal.
The summit is the meeting-point of
ROUTE F. — SCHLATEN GLACIER.
259
three rirlges that connect it with as
many neighbouring peaks. One of these
extends ENE. to the Klemvenediger
(11,649'), another SE. to the Raincrhoni
(11.703'), -while the third, after sinking
to the Dorfer Sulzbach-Thorl (9,438'),
rises again to the peak of the Gross-
Geiger (10,915'). The highest ridge,
■which is almost precipitous towards the
N. and NW., seems to be accessible only
by the EXE. or SE. ridges above men-
tioned. Owing to the sharpness of the
highest ridge, the snow accumidates there
so as to form an overhanging cornice,
which, becoming over-heavy, breaks
away at intervals of three or four years.
Hence the actual summit is at times
positively unsafe, and is never a com-
fortable resting-place for the traveller
who loves to spread his maps, and study
at his ease the topography of the sur-
rounding region. In other respects, the
mountain is singularly easy of access.
In describing the path over the Velber
Tauern (see last Ete.), it was mentioned
that above the Tauernhaus the head of
the Tauernthal turns westward towards
the base of the Grossveuediger. Fol-
lowing the upward path along the N.
side of the Tauernbach, after passing a
narrow place in the valley where the
ascent is somewhat steeper, the traveller,
having surmounted this last thalstufe,m
about f hr. enters the uppermost basin,
wherein stand the Sennhiitten of
Gsckloss, clustered in two groups,
of which the farther — called Inner-
G-schloss — is 5,423 ft. above the sea.
At the Birnbaumer Hiitte, the travel-
ler finds better accommodation than
usual in such places, when it is not
already occupied by tourists, or by
citizens of Lienz, who come in hot
weather to enjoy the pure air and
grand scenery. This, in truth, is of a
high order. The head of the valley is
closed by the Schlaten Glacier — except-
ing only the Pasterze, the greatest ice-
stream of the Tauern range — seen from
its uppermost head under the summit
of theGrrossvenediger to its base, which
reaches a lower level than any in the
Eastern Alps, being only 117 ft. above
Inner-Gschloss. To the rt. of the
highest peak is seen the Kleinvenedi^er,
and to the 1. the Hoher Zaun (11,439'),
or Krystallkopf of Keil's map.
The glacier is guarded on its 1. flank
by the conical rocky summit of the Kes-
sclkopf (9,448'), and on the N. side of
this, not seen from Gschloss, another
considerable ice-stream — the Villragcn
Glacier — reaches the level of the valley.
This originates on the KE. side of the
lOeinvenediger, and is divided from
the Unter-Sulzbach Glacier by the ridge
connecting that peak with the Hohe
Fiirl eg (11,114'), and receives tributaries
from the ridge eastward of the latter
peak that divides the basin of the Isel
trom the Habachthal. In his often-cited
work, Sonklar mentions some ciirious
particulars respecting the structure of
this glacier, and states that, at the time
of his visit, it had advanced within a few
years no less than one-third of a mile,
leaving only a short space intervening
between its lower end and that of the
Schlaten Glacier,
Gschloss being, to the lover of nature,
one of the most attractive spots in this
district, it may be hoped that a mountain
inn may, before long, be opened here,
which will, doubtless, become a favourite
resort of travellers. The best point of
view in the neighbourhood is the JRothe
Sael (9,728'), an eminence in the range
di\-iding this from the Hollersbachthal,
easily reached in 3| hrs, Eather more
difficult of access is the Wildefikogd
(9,901'), rising S, of Gschloss, the highest
point in the range dividing it from Fros-
nitz.
[The traveller who may visit Gschloss
fi-omWindisch-Matrey,without intending
to cross the main range, should visit the
Frosnitzthal either in going or returning.
It offers much fine scenery, especially at
the upper end, where the Frosnitz Glacier
descends from a high semicircular basin
enclosed by the Krystalhcand (10,831'),
the Klcxerho]if{\ 1 ,021'), and the Hinicr-
Eichamspitz (10,836'). The path to it
leaves that leading from "Windisch-Mat-
rey to the Tauernhaiis (last Ete.) about
1| hr. above the former place, and crosses
2
260
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 51-
GROSSGLOCKNER DISTRICT.
the Tauernbach, to the hamlet of Grubcn,
just above the junction of the Frosnitz
torrent. The path ascends westward
very gently along the 1. bank of the tor-
rent to a considerable group of Senn-
hiitten, standing about l^- hr. from
Gruben. Sere the valley turns north-
ward, and a steep ascent leads to the
upper basin, where the pastures of the
Frosnitz Alp surround the lower ex-
tremity of the glacier. Ascending to
NXW., the traveller may reach the
Lobben-Thbrl (9,156'), a depression in
the ridge connecting the Krystallwand
with the Wildenkogel, and descend thence
to G-schloss. The pass is said not to be
very easy, and it would be prudent to
take a local guide.]
Host of those who have ascended the
Grossvenediger from Gschloss have
been accompanied by a guide named
Patterer, but more commonly known as
Staller Nandl. He is somewhat ad-
vanced in years, but appears to be a
good mountaineer. He is content with
4 florins as daily pay for glacier expe-
ditions. In fine weather the use of a
local guide in the ascent is almost con-
fined to the preliminary portion of the
way, which is \isually accomplished be-
fore daylight. The true coiu'se to be
taken is sufficiently obA-ious to any
practised mountaineer who views the
mountain from the Gschloss Alp. The
Schlaten Glacier descends from the neve
region in one continuous ice-fall, about
2,500 ft. in vertical height; but there is
no difficulty in ascending along its 1.
bank, partly by the lateral moraine, and
partly by the slopes of the Kesselkopf.
As; these slopes gradually bend to the rt.,
and shut out the view of the Gschloss
Alp, it is best to bear nearly due N.,
and ascend over debris, and finally by a
snow-slope, to the ridge connecting the
Kesselkopf with the Kleinvenediger,
and dividing the neve of the Schlaten
from that of the Viltragen Glacier.
Being now nearly on a level with the
great neve-basin of the f -rmer glacier,
this is traversed in a WSW. direction,
and before long the traveller sees before
him the pyramidal summit of the prin-
cipal peak, with the Kleinvenediger on
the rt., and the Eainerhorn, or Hennen-
kopf, to the left. The best course is to
; aim at a slight depression (about 11,200
I ft. in height; in the ridge connecting the
i latter with the central peak, and, follow-
j ing this, the traveller, in about 5 hrs.
' from Gschloss, if the snow be in g the chief vil-
lage of the lower valley, often called
G-siess ; but that name is also given to
St. Martin. M. Huter, the priest of
this village, is an excellent botanist.
A path leads hence over the Speikrirdl
to Xiederthal, in the valley of Antholz.
Above Pichl, the Gsiessthal turns to
NE., with a gradual ascent; and, in
about H hr. more,
St. Martin (about 4,500' ?) is reached.
This remote village is remembered as
the birthplace of the Capuchin Has-
pinger, whose fiery spirit so often led
the Tyrolese to victory against the
French and Bavarian invader in 1809.
There is an inn ; but few travellers will
break the journey to St. Jakob. Here
the valley is somewhat contracted ; but
it opens again, and forms a green basin
round St. Magdalena (4,664'), about
f hr. above St. Martin. A path runs |
from this, the highest village in the j
valley, to Kalchstein, in Villgratten j
(Rte. N). The head of the Gsiessthal !
now lies nearly due N., and the ascent i
is continuous, but not steep, to the [
summit of the j
Gsiesser Joch (7,353'), the deepest i
depression in the Defereggen range.
It lies between tlie Pfannhorn (9,242 )
— also called Kaschkosel — and tii-
Planl-fdd (8,651'). The^'descent to St.
Jakob (about 7^ hrs.' steady walking
from Welsberg), follows the Lapcsthal,
a short sinuous glen, whose torrent
flows at first N., and then westward,
to join the Defereggenthal at Lapp —
less than i hr. above St. Jakob.
EOUTE M.
TAUFERS TO ST. JAXOB IN DEFEREGGEN,
BY THE EAINTHAL.
About lOi hrs.' steady walking, exclusive of
halts.
In the last Rte. two paths leading
from Bruneck to St. Jakob, the highest
village in Defereggen, have been de-
scribed, and in the preceding route is a
notice of the glacier passes connecting
the head of that valley with that of the
Ahrenthal. There remains a xevy agree-
able and interesting way, passable on
horseback, intermediate between those
already described, which leads from Tau-
fers, in the lower Ahrenthal, to the head
of the Defereggenthal, through the
Bainthal. This lateral valley, dividing
the Antholzer range from the western
extremity of the Tauern chain, opens
into the beautiful basin of Taufers at
Winkel (§ 50, Ete. E), in a narrow-
cleft that leaves space only for the
Rainbach torrent. To reach the path,
which follows the heights above the K
280
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 51. GROSSGLOCKNTER DISTRICT.
side of this cleft, the traveller crosses
the main valley to Moritzen (2,841'),
and immediately commences to ascend
by a rather steep horse-track, -which
commands fine views of the rich valley
that stretches hence to Bruneck, and the
more Alpine scenery of the Miihlwalder
Thai (§ 50, Rte. Gr). After a hot climb
up the sunny slopes, the traveller vrill-
ingly follows the path to the 1. bank of
the Eainbach, along which he ascends
for fully 3 m., amid the frequent shade
of pine trees, and near the brawling
torrent, but without any distant view.
Another pleasant change occurs when
thp path returns to the rt. bank, at a
point near a saw-mill, where the torrent
springs over a ledge in a waterfall.
Here the first view of the glaciers of the
Antholzer Alps is gained on the SSE.
side, through the opening of the Gdt-
thal, and tte traveller sees before him
tfi ENE. the picturesque Alpine basin
of St. Wolfgang (5,238'), evidently the
filled-up bed of an ancient lake. It is
a dead level space, marshy in places,
enclosed on every side by high peaks.
The village, which is sometimes called
Eain, stands about f hr. from the bridge
mentioned above, or 3 hrs. from Taufers,
and immediately below the meeting of
the two Alpine glens, whose torrents
form the Rainbach. Of these, the
most attractive to the mountaineer is
the Bachenxthal, which originates at
the base of the glaciers of the Hochgall
and the adjoining peaks, and through
which lies a pass, said to be difficult,
to Xitterthal, in Anthok. The NE.
branch of the vaUey, called Knutten-
thal, leads to Dofereggen.
St. "Wolfgang offers many attractions
to the lover of nature. The scenery is
of a high order, and many interesting
excursions afford scope for the activity
of the mountaineer. The inn is very
poor, and travellers are received at the
priest's house, or Vidum, close to the
church. Johann Bacher, the teacher
of the village school, and G-eorg "Weiss
are recommended as guides. Sonklar
recommends the ascent of the Stutten-
nock (8,991'), for the sake of the pano-
ramic view, which includes all the higher
peaks of the neighbouring Alps. The
most remarkable of these, and the most
attractive to the motmtaineer, is the
Schneehige Nock (11,068'), ov Rv.thner-
horn of Sonklar. This bold obelisk of
rock crowns a short promontory that
extends NNW. fr^om the main ridge of
the Antholzer Alps, between the head
of the Geltthal and that of the Bachern-
thal. It was climbed for the first time
in 1866, by the Archduke Rainer, with
Coimt "Wurmbrand and the two guides
above named. They reached the steep
ridge from the Bachernthal side, and
thence, with little further difficulty,
attained the summit.
The way from St. "Wolfgang to Defer-
eggen lies through the Knuttenthal.
The scattered houses that make up the
village extend some way into that glen,
and also into the Bachernthal, with the
difference that the latter is level for
some distance, while the floor of the
EJiuttenthal ascends rapidly. The sce-
nery is not interesting, as the slopes
are bare, and no remarkable objects are
in view. In about 1^ hr. the huts of
the Knuttenalp, at the head of the glen,
are reached. A beaten track mounts
nearly due E. from the alp by gentle
slopes to the KlammlJoch (7,606'), one
of the easiest passes in Tyrol. The
crags of the G-raunock (10,118'), rising
S. of the pass, above a little tarn called
Elammlsee, are striking objects. From
the oratory that marks the summit of
the ridge, above 2^ hrs. from St. "Wolf-
gang, several of the high peaks that
enclose the head, of the Uefereggenthal
are well seen. A very short descent
leads to the Affenbaeh, and following
that torrent, the traveller in \ hr. from
the pass reaches the Jadghausalp. ra-
ther less than 2^ hrs." steady walking
from Erlsbach (see Rte. K).
A comparatively easy pass — though
rougher and steeper than the Klaraml
— leads northward from the Knuttenalp
over the Bretterscharte (8,242') — also
known as Ochsenlenk — and descends
into- the upper Ahrenthal, about \ hr.
above St. Peter (§ 50, Rte. E). By this
ROUTE N. STLLIAX TO HOPFGARTEX, BY THE VILLGRATTENTHAL. 281
way a traveller may reach St. Valentin,
or Kasern, in a moderate day's walk
from St. AVolfijang, or a long day from
St. Jakob, in Defereggen, as the latter
involves the passage of the Klamml as
well as the Bretterscharte.
Among the excursions from St. Wolf-
gang, not above specified, is the ascent
of the Hirhanock (9,85-i'), rising nearly
due X. of the village. It is higher and
more difficult than the Stuttennock,
and scarcely so well situated, except for
the view of the Zillerthal Alps ; but, if
the descent on the NW. is not too
troublesome, this would aiFord a very
interesting way from St. Wolfgang to
Steinhaus, in the Ahrenthal.
EotTTE N.
SILLIAN TO HOPFGARTEX, BY THE YILL-
GRATTENTHAL.
The traveller who enters the Puster-
thal from the Gailthal, or the Ampezzo
road, somewhere not far from Sillian,
and whose aim is to reach Heiligenblut
or Windisch-Matrey, may be glad to
find a direct way by which to avoid the
detour through the main valley of the
Drave, or that by Antholz or Grsiess.
The Villgrattenthal, which opens into
the Pusterthal about 1 m. E. of Sillian,
and soon divides into two branches of
about equal length, offers a convenient
way for this pm-pose, as through its E.
branch Hopfgarten is reached in 8^ hrs.
By following the path through the W.
branch leading to St. Jakob, in Defereg-
gen, it is equally easy to reach the head
of the Ahrenthal, or Pregratten, in the
Virgenthal.
Like many other valleys of this dis-
trict, the VillgraUentlial, at its lower
extremity, shows a narrow cleft merely
giving space fur the torrent, and the
track (practicable for country carriages?)
mounts by Heimfels, above the 1. bank,
and then ascends very gently to Ausser-
Villgratten (4,205'), little more than 1
hr. from the opening of the valley, or 1^
hr. from Sillian. This village is often
called Brucken, and thence the lower
part of the valley Brucker Thai. There
is a poor but tolerable inn, and travel-
lers may also seek accommodation from
the priest. The village stands at the
junction of the two upper branches of
the valley, of which the NE. branch, or
Winkelthal, is the way to Hopfgarten.
For about 2 hrs. the path ascends
through this narrow glen — where many
saw-mills are cutting into planks the
timber that once clothed the slopes —
and then begins to mount in a NE. di-
rection to the Villgrattner Jock (aboiit
8,300'?), by which Hopfgarten is reached
in about 7 hrs. from Aust-er-Villgratten.
With a good local guide, it is likely
that Hopfgarten may be avoided, and a
more direct course taken to reach the
inn, 'In der Huben,' at the junction of
Defereggen with the Iselthal. By fol-
lowing the Winkelthal for nearly 2 hrs.
farther than the point where it is left to
reach Hopfgarten, the traveller may
reach the Weiherwand (8,-lro8'), a pass
lying at the extreme northern end of
the valley, and leading to St. Veit (Ete.
K). The chief torrent of the Winkel-
thal does not originate in the Defei'eg-
gen range, biit flows eastward from the
short but lofty range which extends
thence southward, between the two
branches of the Villgrattenthal, culmi-
nating in the Hochgrabe (9,673'). At
the base of the Weiberwand, the torrent
turns southward, and finally flows SW.
282
CK;NTRAL TYROL ALPS.
§ 52.
to meet the other principal torrent of
the valley at Aiisser-Villgratten. The
western branch, which for some distance
preserves the name Villgrattenthal, is
more thickly inhabited than the Win-
kelthal. For about 6 m, the track
ascends gently to WNW., passing Inner-
Villgratten (4.506'), to Senfte (4J04').
Just below this latter hamlet, a lateral
glen opens to the W., wherein stands
the remote village oi Kalchstein (5,370').
Easy passes lead thence to Toblach over
the Kiihbacher Thbrl, and to St. Martin,
in G-siess. Above Senfte, the Villgratten-
thal ascends for nearly 4 m. somewhat
W. of due N., and comes to an end at a
point where two torrents unite. The
lesser of these flows eastward from the
range dividing this valley from Grsiess ;
while the more important stream de-
scends westward, through an upland
glen called Arnthal, from the same range
whence, on the opposite side, rises the
main torrent of the Winkelthal. From
the point where the Arnthal turns ab-
ruptly southward, two tracks cross the
ridge that forms the northern boundary
of the valley. That hang farther W.
leads to St. Jakob, the other to St.
Leonhard. Both are said to be rough
and fatiguing passes.
Following the Arnthal to its head, the
traveller may cross the range dividing
this from the head of the "Winkelthal —
called Ober-Arnthaler Lenke — and so
descend to Ausser-Yillgratten ; thus
making the tour of both branches of the
valley in one hard da/s walk from the
latter village.
GASTEIN DISTRICT.
SECTION 52.
GASTEIN DISTRICT.
I In the preceding sections, the main chain
of the Eastern Alps, which we have de-
I signated the Central Tyrol Alps, have
I been described, -with the exception of the
I eastern extremity of the chain, which
I happens to lie beyond the political
I boundary of Tyrol, and to be divided
' between the ancient territories of Salz-
burg and Carinthia. It was observed in
the introduction to this chapter that the
eastern limit of the central chain should,
on orographic grounds, be fixed at the
Arlscharte, where originate the two
ranges that enclose the valley of the
Mur. For the purposes of this work, it
is more convenient to extend the bound-
ary of the district now described a few
miles eastward, to the far better known
pass of the Eadstadter Tauern; while
its western limit, as fixed in the last
section, is the track from Lienz to Bruck,
in the Pinzgau, over the Hochthor Pass,
which divides t£ie great group of peaks
surrounding the Pasterze Glacier from
the summits rising farther east. These
are distributed in two ridges running
from "WXW. to ESE. The westernmost,
dividing the MoUthal from the upper
valleys of Eauris and G-astein, culmi-
nates in the Hochnarr (10,692'), and
includes five or six other summits that
slightly exceed 10,000 ft. in height.
The eastern range, connected with the
former by a transverse ridge of moderate
height, has one peak — Hochalpenspitz —
that exceeds 11,000 ft., and four or five
surpassing 10,000 ft. Still farther east,
and separated from the Hochalpenspitz
range by the Arlscharte, is the much
smaller group culminating in the Haf-
nereck (10,044'), which sheds its drain-
age eastward to the Mur, northward to
the Salza through the Grossarl Ache,
and southward to the Drave through the
Malta. This group is remarkable as
being the eastern limit at which con-
Biderable glaciers are found in the central
chain, and as the origin of the double
lange enclosing the valley of the Mur.
ROUTE A. — SALZBURG TO BAD GASTEIN.
283
It •will be seen that, at its eastern
end, the High'Tauern range attains an
altitude much inferior to that of the
portions hitherto described, and, though
not deficient in fine scenery, the district
now to be noticed certainly does not
rival, in this respect, the choicer spots
pointed out in the four preceding sections,
unless the head of the Maltathal, with
which the writer is not personally ac-
quainted, should form an exception. For
this reason, it is expedient to take this dis-
trict at the beginning rather than the end
of a tour in the Tauern Alps. While the
remaining valleys are almost unknown
to strangers, that of Gastein has, through
various causes, acquired European cele-
brity. It, therefore, naturally gives its
name to the entire district; the more
especially as it affords very good head-
quarters for the traveller, whose aim is
to enjoy fine natural scenery, as well as
for the invalid and the politician.
The eastern and western boundaries
of the district comprised in this section
have been already mentioned. To the N.
it is limited by the line of valley tra-
versed by th.e road from Bruck, in the
Pinzgau, to Eadstadt on the Enns ; and
to the S. it is equally well defined by the
valley of the Drave between Lienz and
Spittal.
The reported suspension or abandon-
ment of the mines of Eauris may be
inconvenient to mountaineers, who may
fail to find expected food and shelter.
EOUTE A.
SALZBrRG TO BAD GASTEIN, EXCURSIOXS
FROM GASTEIN,
Lend .
Hof Gastein
Bad Gastein
Austrian
miles
English
miles
49i
14"
7
70i
Post-road. The distances charged between
Lend and Bad Gastein are somewhat exagge-
rated.
The baths of Gastein have enjoyed a
high reputation for their healing virtues
during the last three centuries, and the
valley has been famous for its gold
mines from the remotest period ; but of
late years the celebrity of the place has
been much increased by the accident
that it has been resorted to by sovereigns
and ministers of state. The telegraphic
wire that penetrates this remote Alpine
valley, instead of discharging its cus-
tomary ofl&ce of ordering rooms or horses
for invalids, has been engaged in carrying
messages on which depended the peace
of the civilised world. It is easy of ac-
cess for travellers approaching from the
N. side of the Alps, and the diligence
from Salzburg, which plies daily in sum-
mer, brings the tourist to this convenient
starting-place for a tour in the Eastern
Alps on the third day from London.
The road from Salzburg to Lend is
described in § 45, Ete. E. At the latter
village, the road turns aside from the
Salza to enter the Gasteinerthal, one of
that long series of nearly parallel valleys
through which the drainage of the High
Tauern Alps is borne northward into the
great transverse valley of the Salza. As
happens in many other valleys of this
region, this is not locally known by any
single designation, but the name ' Die
Gastein' is given to its lower portion,
containing the greater part of the popu-
lation, and has been appended to the
designation of its three chief villages.
The real distance from Lend to the
baths is not more than 18 m. = 6 hrs.'
walk, ascending the valley, cr 3j hrs. in
284
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
a carriage. The charge for vehicles ■with
two horses is 8 florins. A small carriage
that carries the letters takes one or two
passengers, but no luggage beyond a
knapsack. The narrow defile through
which the Grasteiner Ache descends to
the level of the Salza is called the Klamm.
Those who would approach near the
series of fine cascades formed by the
torrent may follow a very rough path ;
while the road winds up the steep rocky
Bide on the 1. side of the gorge. The
present road, made in 1832, is quite safe
in summer, but exposed to avalanches
in winter and spring. Though the ascent
is not great, the scenery is unexpectedly
grand, and the traveller will be glad to
mount it on foot. Before issuing from
the defile, the road passes to the rt. bank
by a bridge (2,473')— 265 ft. above the
post-house at Lend — leading to the
ruined castle of Klammstein, which once
completely commanded the entrance to
tlie valley. A short additional ascent
of about 150 ft. carries the road to the
level of the lower valley. Through green
fields, along the rt. bank of the now
tranquil stream, the road goes nearly at
a level to
Dorf Gastein (2,649'), a scattered
village, with a tolerable country inn,
whence a path runs eastward over the
mountain in 3 hrs. t9 Grossarl (Kte. F).
Here the road makes a slight circuit,
and the pedestrian finds a short cut over
the meadows. The general direction
hitherto followed has been about SSE. ;
henceforward, as far as the baths, it is
nearly due S., bending somewhat to the
W. as far as
Hof Gastein (2,846'), the chief village
in the valley, whose records go back to
a period of remote antiquity. The earliest
church was built in the ninth century on
the site of a still more ancient chapel.
It has several inns (Moser's, good ;
Blaue Traube; Schwarzer Adler; and
others). Since the waters from the famous
mineral spring have been led here in
wooden pipes, still retaining a tempera-
ture of 93° Fahr., many invalids prefer
this place, either for economy, or because
of the greater certainty of fi.nding accom-
modation. The position is, however,
much less favourable for mountain excur-
sions, excepting only the ascent of the
G-araskahrkog^^i, which is rather nearer
this village than the baths. The chief
existing evidence of the wealth once de-
rived from the neighbouring mines is
found in the stately monuments preserved
in the church and adjoining cemetery.
Moser's Hotel, whose architecture recalls
that of Venice, once the home of the
Strasser family, adjoins the new baths.
An outburst of serpentine through the
surrounding mica schist is, as usual,
associated with the appearance of many
rare minerals. It is on reaching Hof
G-astein that the traveller, for the first
time, gains a view of the high peaks at
the head of the G-asteinerthal, among
which the Ankogl, crowning the high
range that divides the main branches of
the valley, is the main object of attrac-
tion. The old road to the baths — rather
shorter for the pedestrian — kept to the
rt. bank of the torrent, but the modern
road crosses to the opposite side a short
way above Hof G-astein, near the point
where the path to Eauris mounts west-
ward through the short glen of the
Angerthal (Ete. B). After passing the
so-called Englische Kaffeehaus, much
resorted to by visitors, the road soon
reaches
Bad Gastein — often called Wildbad
Gastein. The position of this place is
very singular, just at a high step in the
valley, where the torrent descends about
600 ft. in two waterfalls connected by
rapids. Between the waterfalls is a
narrow shelf whereon stand most of the
houses and baths, while the remainder
are scattered over the slopes on either
side of the valley. Save a house built
by the late Archduke John, and a few
others of less note, all the buildings
here are either hotels or lodging-houses
for the accommodation of visitors. Of
the former, the first in rank is Strau-
binger's, with table d'hote, reading-room,
and various modern comforts, rather
dear for Germany. The landlord is the
present representative of a family which
has here exercised the same profession
ROUTE A. BAD GASTEIN.
Bince 1602. To him also belongs the
Schweizerhaiis, prettily situated, but
some way from the Laths. Tolerably
good accommodation is also found at
Grruber's inn, the Hirsch, Grabenwirth,
and Mitterwirth, not to name others of
lower rank. Many visitors prefer to
engage lodgings, and take their meals at
Straubinger's or some other hotel. The
handsomest rooms, for which the charges
are rather high, are in the Badeschloss,
built by an Archbishop of Salzburg;
they are let only when not required for
royal or imperial visitors. The lodging-
houses called Bellevue and Solitude are
recommended. As there is not accom-
modation here for more than about 500
%'isitors at a time, every room is often
occupied during the season ; and families
intending a visit should not fail to
write beforehand to the Bade-Director,
to secure necessary rooms. In the hotels
the baths are made of wood, and alto-
gether rather rough ; in the Badeschloss
are a .few baths lined with porcelain
tiles, but these are often secured before-
hand, and are not always accessible. As
a general rule, all charges here are regu-
lated by tariff, and visitors can suit
themselves as to their expenses.
The mineral springs, seven in num-
ber, all issue in the immediate neigh-
bourhood, one of them in the midst of
the cascade. They seem to have iden-
tical properties, and are remarkable for
their high temperatui-e— 116° to 120°
Fahr. Chemical analysis fails to ac-
count for the energetic action of these
tasteless waters, which contain ordinary-
earthy salts in quantity little greater
than in most spring water. It is, how-
ever, worthy of note that the water is
found to possess unusually high con-
ductivity for electricity. The usual
course of cure recommended to patients
includes twenty-one baths, and they are
sometimes advised to conclude by a short
course of the waters at St. Wolfgang, in
the neighbouring valley of Fusch (§ 51,
Kte. C). The climate of Grastein, espe-
cially in July, is often wet and rather
cold ; and visitors are not seldom reduced
to take exercise in a long gallery covered
285
with glass — called the Wandelbahn —
which is a conspicuous but not pictu-
resque object from a distance, as it is
carried along the verge of the rocks
immediately above the great waterfall
of the Grasteiner Ache. The latter is
the ruling genius of the place. The
ceaseless clouds of spray bedim the
windows of the Wandelbahn, and of
many of the houses ; and the hollow
roar of the waters is found by some to
be soothing, while it irritates the nerves
of more delicate persons who are lodged
in the adjoining houses.
The church of St. Nicholas, dating
from the fourteenth centuiy, and the
adjoining cemetery, are interesting to
the antiquary. Numerous paths enable
visitors to visit with ease the more at-
tractive spots in the immediate neigh-
boui'hood, but not without a little climb-
ing up or down hill. Above tne baths,
the cascade and rapids of the Ache have
excavated a deep and impassable cleft
in the slate rocks, above which a pic-
turesque bridge — the Schreckbrilcke
(3,524') — is thrown over the torrent.
Having gained this elevation, the visitor
may, without further labour, wander
along the nearly level reach of the
upper valley that extends some way
beyond the village of Buckstein (see
below). Another favourite stroll is to
descend to the opening of the Kotschach-
thal, and follow the path up that glen.
The junction of the Kotschachbach is
about ^ m. below the baths, and 2,870
ft. above the sea, but a path winds
along the slopes, so that to enter the
glen, it is not necessary to descend so
low. The bridge above the great water-
fall, near to Straubinger's hotel, is 3,152
ft. above the sea.
A glance at the map shows that the
upper valley of Gastein runs transverse
to the general direction of the main
ridges of the adjoining Alps. It comes
to an end in the Nassfeld, at the base of
the ScharrecJc (10,277')» and receives
from the ESE. three tributaries from
as many parallel glens. The highest
of these — the Weissenbachthal — ap-
proaches the Malnitzer Tauern(Ete.C);
286
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
the next is the Anlaufthal (mentioned
in the same Rte.) ; and the lowest the
Kotschachthal, which joins the main
valley below the baths, and is further
noticed in Rte. Gr.
The charges for guides at Grastein are
quite unreasonable, and there is a heavy
extra demand for carrying baggage.
Johann Freyberger is recommended as
intelligent, and a good walker. For
the Ankogl, and other high summits
towards the head of the valley, the best
man is probably the Schmied (Komeck? )
at Bockstein, but he is now advanced in
years.
Of the easier excursions from G-astein,
by far the most interesting is that to
the Nassfeld, for which see Ete. C.
The favourite mountain excursion
from Bad Gastein is the ascent of the
Gamskahrkogel (7,91 7')» a summit rising
nearly due E. of Hof G-astein. A bri-
dle-path leads from that place to the
summit, and many persons therefore
descend thither, and engage horses —
charged at the unreasonable rate of 8 fl.
per horse, and 2 fl. for the guide. A
much more direct way from Bad Ga-
stein is found by crossing the lower part
of the Kotschachthal, and following a
nearly direct course to the summit, for
the most part up steep grassy slopes.
A person used to mountain walking
does not require a guide. "With favour-
able weather , the panoramic view is
extensive and interesting, but, in the
writer s opinion, it has been somewhat
ovei^i'aised by German writers. Eather
more laborious, and in many respects
more interesting, is the ascent of the
Badhausberg (often written Eathhaus-
berg). This is a considerable mountain
mass that rises S. of Bockstein, between
the above-mentioned glens of Anlauf
and Weissenbach. The NW. summit,
conspicuous from Gastein, measures
8,218 ft. but the highest, SE., summit,
locally called Kreuzkofel, attains 8,804
ft. The mountain has been fiimous for
its mineral wealth from the most remote
antiquity ; the fame of its golden pro-
duce having led the Eomans to drive
out the Noric tribes, who had already
established themselves in this remote
corner of the Alps. The highest shaft
— long since abandoned — is 8,170' ft.
above the sea. The mineralogist may
here find many rare minerals and ores
of lead and copper, associated with
silver, antimony, and arsenic, with oc-
casional particles of gold. The gneiss
of which the mountain is chiefly formed
varies much in structure, and often
assumes a porphyritic character. Crys-
tals of beryl have been found in the
quartz veins of the Ivreuzkofel. The
botanist may gather Sileae immilio,
LinncBa horealis, Primula Ion qi flora, and
other rare plants. The most direct way
is to ascend from Bockstein, by a well-
traced path that begins to mount a short
way above the bridge.
As the working of the mines is said
to be suspended for the present (1869),
travellers may no longer be able to
return in a miner's car on a very steep
slide, which shot down a slope of about
2,300 feet vertical height in a few
minutes. Although the shaft, called
Christoph-Stollen, which once produced
gold and silver to the annual value of
80,000 ducats, has been long unworked,
it may be easily traversed with a miner
for guide. Entering at the N. end,
the traveller comes out at a point l^-
m. distant, and 7,205 ft. above the
sea, just below the topmost ridge of
the mountain. From the summit of
the Kreuzkofel, which in fine weather
commands a very fine view of the neigh-
bouring snowy peaks, the traveller may
descend eastward through the Hiekahr
to the Anlaufthal, or AVSW. through the
Weissenbachthal to the Xassfeld (Ete.
C). The miners show a house on the
mountain — called Christophen-Berghaus
— built more than 300 years, which has
survived the annual fall of at least one
avalanche every spring, while all the
other buildings have been repeatedly
destroyed.
The mountaineer who may make a
halt at Gastein will be tempted to
undertake the ascent of the AnJcogl
(10,674:'), This fine peak sends nearly
all its drainage to the Drave through
ROUTE B. LEND TO HEILIGENBLUT, BY KAURIS.
287
tlie IMaltarha], or through the Seethal,
which is one of the tributaries of the
MoUthal, but its NE. slope rises above
the head of the Anlaufthal ; and from
the Eadeckalp (5,657'). at the head of
that glen, the ascent may be effected.
It is an expedition for practised moun-
taineers, involving (it is said) some stiff
glacier work ; and the final climb is
along a very narrow arete of treacher-
ously loose rocks. The view is not
equal to that from the Hochnarr. For
a notice of the ascent from Maluitz, see
Rte. C.
EoirrE B.
LEXD TO HEILIGEXBLrT BY BAURIS, OE
HOF GASTEIN.
The valley of Eauris, lying between
those of Fusch and G-astein, offers the
most direct route for a traveller ap-
proaching Heiligenblut from Salzburg ;
but it is little frequented. The superior
attractions of the scenery of the Fuscher
Thai, and the great resort of strangers
to Bad G-astein, leave few to follow the
intermediate route. This is, however,
by no means uninteresting ; and it
enables the traveller to reach Heiligen-
blut on the second day from Salzburg,
sleeping at Eauris. The mountaineer,
travelling in the opposite direction, who
may take the summit of the Hochnarr
on his way from Heiligenblut, can de-
scend to the Salza either by way of
Eauris or of G-astein.
1. By Eauris and the HocMhor.
Carriage-road to Eauris — about 11 m.
Bridle-track thence to Heiligenblut —
about 10 hrs. The high-road of the
Pinzgau (§ oO, Ete. A) is followed for
about 5 m. from Lend to Taxenbach.
From that place to Eauris a little
time is saved by taking a carriage.
The traveller, on entering the valley of
Eauris, should on no account omit to
visit the Waterfall of the Kitzloch, re-
markable not only for the volume of
water of the Eauriser Ache, which here
springs from the level of its own valley
to that of the Salza, but especially for
the imposing effect of the dark and
savage cleft, in which visitors are enabled
to approach the waterfall by steps and
wooden planks attached to the rocky
walls. After this slight detour, the
traveller follows the road above the rt.
bank of the torrent, leaving to the rt.
the village of Enihach (3,325'), which
commands a noble view along the Pinz-
gau, and northward to the crags of the
Uebergossene Alp, rising behind the
Dienten mountains. The pedestrian
coming from Lend may take this vil-
lage on his way to Eauris, by a slight
short cut ; but he thus loses the re-
markable waterfall. On reaching the
level of the valley of Eauris, the fine
snowy peaks at the head of the valley
come into view. They are here indis-
criminately known as the Hohe Gold-
berg. The very small but ancient
market-town of Eauris (3,141') is said
to have a good inn (Beim Brauer).
The landlord possesses three fine dishes
of Urbino majolica ware, one of which
bears the date 154:2. Two paths lead
from hence E. and SE. to the valley of
G-astein. About 1 hr. above Eauris,' the
main valley, which mounts due S. to
the mines at the foot of the Goldberg
Glacier, is joined by a considerable
lateral glen from the SW. The way to
Heiligenblut is through this, which is
known as the Seidelicinkelthal. Leav-
ing the nearly level cart-road on the rt.
bank of the main torrent, the traveller
crosses to the opposite bank some way
below the junction, in order to reach
2«8
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
the hamlet of Worth {^A9T), at the open- |
ing of the Seidelwinkelthal. This is a I
nnrrow glen not offering any very re- ■
markable object, yet the scenery is
pleasing, and the frequent shade of \
pine trees makes the walk the more I
agreeable. Nearly 3 hrs. of steady |
walking from Worth are required to
reach the
Tauernhaus (5,049'), locally called
Taurach. This is a humble Alpine
hostelry of the same kind as those
mentioned in the last section. It is
one of the best of its class, offering
tolerable refreshment, and endurable,
though far from comfortable night-
quarters. The forest which clothes the
lower part of the glen comes to an end
a short way above the Tauernhaus ; but
for some way the ascent is still gentle,
keeping a SW. direction till, on rounding
a corner, the path begins to mount to-
wards S., winding up a rather steep
stony slope. The solitary traveller
must take care not to choose a path to
the 1., which leads to the Fuscher Thorl,
and to keep a general direction but little
W. of S. till he reaches the last slopes
that lead to the Hochthor. That pass,
as well as the path from Fusch over the
Fuscher Thorl, is described in § 51,
Ete. C. From 5|- to 6 hrs. suffice to
reach Heiligenblut from the Tauernhaus.
The traveller wishing to vary the or-
dinary way from the Tauernhaus to
Heiligenblut may cross the Weissenhach-
scharte (8,651'), a pass lying about 1^ m.
E. of the Hochthor, and involving
about an hour's walk more than the
usual route. The descent lies through
a wild glen called Grosse Fleiss, which
joins the Kleine Fleiss (mentioned below)
about 1 hr. from Heiligenblut.
2. Bi; Hof Gastein and the Hochthor.
Carriage-road to Hof G-astein — 14 m.
Bridle^track thence to Heiligenblut —
about 15^ hrs. The only frequented
path between the valleys of Gastein
and Kauris is that mentioned in Ete.
A, which mounts to SW. through the
Aiujerthal. This is a short open glen
that joins the main valley of Gastein,
nea' the hamlet of Aigen, between Hof
and Bad Gastein. Those who start
from the latter place need not descend
to Aigen ; but they must allow half an
hour more time than from Hof. A
broad track, practicable for light vehi-
cles, mounts through the lower part of
the Angerthal. The glen originates at
the N. base of the Bockhardtscharte,
but the way to the Eauriser Thai lies
through a western tributary that joins
the main branch of the glen rather
more than 1 hr. above Aigen. Keeping
to the track along the N. slope, usually
at some distance from the stream, the
traveller gradually attains a considerable
height, without thereby obtaining a wide
view, until, on attaining the summit of
the pass — Auf der Stanz (6,920') — a
grand scene is suddenly opened before
him. The peaks at the head of the
Eauriser Thai, and the range dividing
the latter from Fusch, are reduced to
comparative insignificance by the nobler
summits of the Glockner and the Wies-
bachbom that tower above the nearer
mountains. The botanist will do wisely
to allow abundant time for this walk,
as he will find many rarities. In ascend-
ing from Gastein, Willemetia apargioidcs
is abimdant in marshy Alpine meadows;
on the opposite side, near the top, Lo-
nuitogonium carinthiacum is found on
the dry grassy slopes. Fully 4 hrs.
must be allowed to reach the summit
from Hof Gastein, and less than half
that time is needed for the rapid descent
to Biichehen (3.641'). This ranks as a
village — the highest in Eauris — because
it possesses, along with half a dozen
houses, a church and an inn. The latter
has undergone several vicissitudes, but
the latest accounts that have reached
the writer are favourable. The stranger
seeking information as to the neighbour-
ing mountains will find a friendly recep-
tion from the parish priest. An easy
walk of I hr. down the main valley,
keeping always to the 1. bank, leads
from Bueheben to Worth, at the opening
of the Seidelwinkelthal, where the travel-
ler joins the regular track from Eauris
to Heiligenbhit, already noticed.
[The traveller wishing to reach St.
ROUTE B. BL'CHKBEN TO THE MIXES OF RAURIS.
289
Wolfgang, in Fusch (§ 61, Rte, C)
from Kauris or Gastein mt\y take a
rather steep, but very agreeable, path
that mounts on the rt. hand from the
Seidehvinkflthal to the pass of the
Weicksdbachwand (7,258') (also locally
called Schiitterriedl ?). The summit,
commanding a noble view of the Wies-
bachhurn, is reached in 3 hrs. from
Worth, and H hr. suffices for the de-
scent to St. Wolfgang.]
Those who may not be inclined to
undertake the laborious and somewhat
difficult passes next described will do
well to make an excursion from Buch-
eben to the mines at the head of the
Eauriser Thai. The scenery is fine, and
will well reward the sliglit excursion ;
but it is a still better plan to take the
mines on the way from Bad Gastein to
Bucheben (see below). In descending
from Auf der Stanz to Bucheben, it is not
easy to lose the way, but those who tra-
vel in the opposite direction should take
a local guide, as there are many cattle-
tracks in various directions.
3. Bi/ the -/nines of Rauris, and the
Goldzech-Tav.ern. Eoad or bridle-path
to the Neubau — 9^ hrs. Grlacier-pass
thence to Heiligenblut — 7 hrs. This is
undoubtedly the most interesting route
for a mountaineer going from Rauris to
Heiligenblut, especially in clear weather,
when the ascent of the Hochnarr may
be combined with the expedition, and
involves only about 1 hr.'s addition to
the day's walk. It is, however, far
more easily accomplished by starting at
an early hour from Heiligenblut, where
Pius Granogger and other guides are
acquainted with the way. On the Eau-
ris side, the only guicle who is recom-
mended is the Hutmann Stockl at Ivolm-
♦Saigurn. The writer has been informed
that the so-called gold mines at the head
of the Eauriser Thai have been recently
(1869) closed, and it is unsafe to count
on the rough accommodation formerly
found at Kolm-Saigurn. The pass is
sometimes difficult, owing to the cre-
vassed state of the glacier, and at times
there is some risk from falling rocks.
The mines are, or were, if not the
c. T.
highest worked in Europe, certainly thosa
carried on in the face of the greatest
difficulties. One of the ancient shafts
is now covered over by a glacier,
and even the path leading to the
works, which appears so easy in sum-
mer, is in winter much exposed to
j avalanches.
The portion of the High Tauem range
that forms the boundary between Salz-
burg and Carinthia at the head of the
valleys of Eauris and Gastein, and may
be called from its highest summit the
Hochnarr range, preser^-es that general
direction from WNW. to ESE. which is
characteristic of the region E. of the
Velber Tauern. For a distance of abou'"
11m. from the Weissenbachscharte to
the Goiselspits (9,739'i, it forms the
dividing ridge between the Salza and
the Moll. From the last-named sum-
mit, a much lower transverse ridge con-
nects this with the parallel range of the
Ankogl and Hochalpenspitz, but the
axis of the Hochnarr range extends 6 m.
farther to ESE., terminating in the-
Lonzaberg (7,088') over Ober-Vellach
(Ete. C). The Hochnarr (10,692') con-
siderably overtops all the other summits
of this range ; the other most conspicu-
oi;s points are the Goldberqspits [10, OQo)
and the ScluD-reck (10,277').
A short way above Bucheben, the cart-
track from Eauris passes to the rt. bank
of the Ache. The way along the main
branch of the valley — locally known as
Hidtwinkelthal — is rendered the morg
interesting as the peaks and glaciers at
its head are almost constantly in sight.
At the Zottbriicke (about 4.200'), near
the junction of the Krummelbach, which
issues from a narrow cleft on the W.
side of the valley, the track returns to
the 1; bank, and soon after ascends a
projecting eminence, that commands a
fine view in both directions along the
valley. Here begins the region of Al-
pine pastures, -with which, in unusuul
combination, are seen various build-
ings connected with the mines. The Bo-
denhaus, where refreshnients are found,
served as a she'.ter in bad weather for
the miners travelling to or fro. Amid
u
290
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
very fine scenery the traveller continues
to ascend to
Kolm-Saiffurn{r), Z78'), the head-quar-
ters of the miners, where the gold-bear-
ing ore is crushed, and the precious
metal extracted by amalgamation. The
chief Hutmann. or foreman, keeps a sort
of rude hostelry, where refreshments,
and, in case of need, rough night-quar-
ters, are found. Fine specimens of rare
minerals are often to be obtained here.
The most direct w'ay from Kolm-Sai-
gurn to the Hochnai'r is by the Lange
G-asse and the Keestrachter, but re-
cently travellers have usually passed by
the Neuhau (7,115'), a building intended
mainly to afford a shelter for the por-
ters who carry down the freshly ex-
.tracted ore. Although a little circuit-
ous, this course probably saves time,
as there is a beaten track as far as the
Xeubau. The highest shaft now worked
is about h hr. higher up. On a rock
rising but little above the level of the
surrounding glacier, just 7,700 ft. above
the sea, stands the miner's house {Knap-
penhaus), * Am Boden.' Here, under
physical conditions of extreme difficulty,
the miners labour throughout the year.
Those who see these regions during the
short summer season have no adequate
idea of what the life here must be during
the remainder of the year. According to
M. Reissacher, the director of the mines
in this district, the diminished density
of the air is the chief cause of the inju-
rious effects of the labour on the health.
It is necessary to allow the men weekly
periods of absence to descend into the
valley. He has found it impossible to
keep dogs or cats alive for more than a
few weeks. There may, however, be
local causes at work in addition to that
which he regards as alone important.
[From the house ' Am Boden,' an ac-
tive mountaineer may in 3 hrs. reach
the summit of the Sckarrcck (10,277')>
which is easy of access from this side,
and commands a very fine view.]
Of the glaciers that are drained into
the headof the Rauriser Thai, by far the
most considerable is the Goldberg- Glet-
^cJver, which is fed by. the snows lying
within a great semicircle extending from
the Herzog Ernst (9,695') on the E. to
the Hmfer-Sonnblick (9,591'). The way
to Heiligenblut lies westward across
this glacier, and along moraine, tiU the
much crevassed Hochnarr Glacier is
reached. The lower part of this, which
bears the singular name Pilatus-See,
is crossed, and thenceforward the course
is cliiefly over neve, passing under the
N. side of a steep ridge of crumbling
rock, whence loose blocks are not sel-
dom detached. It wovdd appear (?)
that this part of the route may be
avoided by a traveller aiming directly
at the pass to Heiligenblut, which lies
S. of the peak of the Hochnarr. This,
however, commands so fine a view, and
is so easy of access, that no mountaineer
can willingly leave it on one hand. The
pass of the Goldzech-Tauern does not
seem to have been accurately measured,
but must be at least 9,500 ft, in height.
It immediately overlooks the head of
the wild glen of the Kleine Fleiss, whose
torrent, after uniting with that of the
Grosse Fleiss, joins the Moll at Pock-
horn, below Heiligenblut. Both these
glens were formerly the scene of mining
activity, but most of the shafts, which
extended as high as 9,400 ft., are now
covered by glacier. The descent is over
glacier to a small lake called Zirmer
See, which lies in the midst of scenery
of the wildest character. This is ap-
parently the same as the Goldzech-See
of Sonklar, 8,602 ft. above the sea-level.
Following the remains of an ancient
horse-track, the traveller descends to
St. Anton, a hamlet jixst below the junc-
tion of the Grosse Fleiss, and in another
^ hr. reaches Heiligenblut.
There is another glacier pass, some-
times followed by native cliamois hunt-
ers, which leads from Rauris through the
Krummelthal (mentioned above), and
over the Weissenbacher Kees to the head
of the Grosse Fleiss. This is probably
quite as laborious a route as that by
the Goldzech-Tauern, and apparently
much less interesting.
4. Bi/ Bad Gastein, Neiihau, and the
Goldzech- Tauern. By road to Bad G-a-
ROUTE C. — BAD GASTEIN TO SPITTAL, BY MALLNITZ.
291
stein, 21m.; thence to Heiligenblut, on
foot, 11^ hrs., exclusive of halts. By
the coui'se here indicated, an active
mountaineer may accomplish the dis-
tance between Bad Grastein and Heili-
genblut in one rather long day's walk ;
but, in the absence of any guide at G-a-
stein well acquainted with the route, it
is scarcely practicable except from the
Heiligenblut side. The writer was fa-
voured with a note by the late Dr. Brin-
ton, who made the exciirsion in 1861 with
Herr v. Mojsisovics. Having ascended
through the Kleine Fleiss, they gained
the summit of the Hochnarr, and de-
scended thence to the Neubau by the
course already described. From the
Neubau a track, called Verwaltersteig,
oiten used by the miners in simiraer,
leads to the Riffelscharte (8,103'), a
slight depression in the range, which
diverges northward from the Herzog
Ernst between the valleys of Gastein and
Kauris. This way should not be taken
late in the autumn, nor at any season
after much fresh suow, as it is much
exposed to avalanches, and numerous
accidents from that cause are recorded.
The descent on the E. side is through
the short glen of the Siefflitcthal, where-
in are seen several ruined buildings,
connected with now abandoned mining
works. On reaching the Moserhiitte, at
the N. end of the Nassfeld, the travel-
ler joins the beaten track leading from
the Mallnitzer Tauern to Bad Gastein
(see Ete. C). The following times
were noted by Messrs. Brinton and
Mojsisovics, both fast walkers : Heili-
genblut to the summit of the Hoch-
narr, 5 hrs. ; descent thence to the Neu-
bau, 3 hrs ; ascent to the Eiffelscharte,
f hr. ; descent to the Moserhiitte, nearly
1 hr.; thence to Bad Gastein, 1^ hr.
Travellers who do not undertake diffi-
cult excursions may very well make the
circuit from Bad Gastein to Bucheben
by the route here described — reaching
the Neubau by the Sieglitzthal, and
descending thence to Bucheben. This
is in fine weather quite free from diffi-
cidty, but involves a rather long day's
walk. A rather shorter course is to
mount from the Ober-Bockhardt See
(Ete. C), to the pass of the Ober-Lrk-
hardtschartc (7,445'), which, as well as
the Eiffelscharte, commands a very fine
view. Thence a path leads down to
Kolm-Saigurn.
v2
EOTJTE C.
BAD GASTEIX TO SPITTAL, ON THB
DRATE, BY MALLNITZ.
The valley of Gastein is connected
with that of the Moll, in Carinthia, by
the most frequented pass over the main
range between the Brenner and the Ead-
stadter Tauern. Thougli higher by 14
ft. (?) than the Yelber Tauern (§ 51,
Ete. E), it is much easier of access, and
in summer is traversed daily by beasts
of burden. This important pass is most
generally known by the name Mall-
nitzer Tauern, which it bears on the
Carinthian side, but at Gastein it is
better known as the Nassfelder Tauern.
Two other passes, rather shorter in
distance, but much more laborious, con-
nect the baths of Gastein with Mallnitz.
These, though noticed below, are little
used, but apparently deserve more atten-
tion than they have hitherto obtained
from travellers.
1. By the Mallnitzer Tauern. 7| hrs,
on foot, or 8^ hrs. on horseback, to
Mallnitz; about 26 m. thence to Spittal.
Although the easiest pass over the High
292
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
Tauern Alps, this is not a light under-
taking for ladies. Those who prefer
that course may engage horses (at 10 fl.
each) for the whole distance from Bad
Gastein to Ober-Vellach — reckoned 10
hrs. ; but as the descent on the S. side
is very steep, those who can walk a few
miles do better to take the horses only
to the summit of the pass (5 fl. each),
and descf-nd on foot. From Mallnitz
there is a road to Ober-Vellach, and a
vehicle of some sort is usually to be had ;
but the way is so rough that those who
can do so may better walk, the distance
being about 6 m. It is possible to go
in a char from Bad Gra stein to Bockstein
(about f hr.), and to engage the horses
required from the landlord of the inn at
that place.
A singular contrast is presented to
the visitor at Bad G-astein, where he
lives between the roar of the great water-
fall below the baths and the angry whirl
of the foaming cataracts above, when,
after a short accent, he passes the
Schreckbriicke (Rte. A), and a few steps
farther gains the level of the upper
valley, which stretches peacefully to the
S., with a range of partially snow-clad
summits, stern rather than grand in
aspect, rising in the background. Here,
about f hr. from the baths, is tke
mining village of
BbcJcstein (3,607'). ''^ith a tolerably
comfortable inn, which some mountain-
eers find preferable to the crowded
hotels of Bad Gastein. Here the ore
from the Eadliausberg (Ete. A) is
crushed and washed, and the gold ex-
tracted. Leaving to the 1. the opening
of the Anlmifthal, noticed below, the
way lies SW. through the valley, now
contracted by a buttress projecting from
the Radhausberg. Keeping to the rt.
bank of the torrent, the path ascends
gradually through a long and narrow
defile, and unexpectedly leads to the very
fine waterfall called Kesselfall. This is,
however, only the first of a series that
enliven the scenery of this part of the
valley. A path made by the late Arch-
duke John, which turns to the rt. from
the main track, leads, with very little
loss of time, by two other waterfalls'
whose effect is much heightened by the
grandeur of the surrounding scener3\
These are called the Bdrcnfdlle. In the
back -ground, the Scharreck, which here
presents a bold pyramidal outline, is a
striking object. Scarcely has the tra-
veller left the Barenfalle when another
cascade comes into view. Behind the
precipitous rocks that rise above the 1.
bank of the main torrent, lies an upland
glen called BockJiardt, but often written
Poekhart, containing two Alpine lakes.
The stream that drains the lower lake,
not finding a channel through which to
reach the level of the Gasteiner Ache,
attains the verge of the precipitous rocks
enclosing the defile, and springs or slides
down their face in a singular fall, called
SchleurfaU. Returning hence to the
bridle-track, the traveller soon crosses
the torrent to its 1. bank, by the E'lg-
thorhriicJce (4,950')- One path mounts
the very steep rocks to reach the level
of the Bockhardt glen, while the main
track follows the 1. bank of the Ache.
[The Bockhardt well deserves an ex-
cursion from Gastein. It is a short,
comparatively broad, glen, or rather
hollow in the mountains, resembling,
though on a larger scale, those often
seen in N. Wales, and there called cwm.
To such hollows the designation Kahr is
commonly given in the Eastern Alps ;
and the name is probably in its original
form Pochkahr, the first syllable refer-
ring to the crushing process to which the
gold-bearing ore of this region is sub-
jected. The mines, which formerly pro-
duced both gold and silver, have been
long since abandoned. The traveller
may mount directl}- by the path near
the Engthorbriicke, or, after visiting the
Nassfeld, take a less steep way by a
track, anciently used by miners, that
diverges from the main valley near the
Moserhiitte. Another path, shorter than
either, leads back to Bockstein. The
Bockhardt is divided into two terraces,
each partly occupied by a lake. The
Unter-Boc'khardtsce (6,069') is a com-
paratively large sheet of waicr, about
150 ft. in depth. A comparatively steep
ROUTE C. MALLXITZER TAUERN.
293
ascent leads thence to the Oher-BocJc-
hardtsee (6,679'), a smaller basin, sur-
rounded by Alpine vegetation, in which
the botanist will recognise Saxifraga
planifoUa. It is surrounded by rugged
stony slopes wherein are seen very
numerous 'openings of the shafts for-
merly worked here. Like most of the
other mountain lakes of this neighbour-
hood, these contain no fish, doubtless
owing to the presence of metallic salts.
From the npper lake, the traveller may
reach Kolm-8aigurn in Rauris, by a pass
mentioned in the last Rte. Another pass
— Unter-BockhurdUcJutrte (7,383') — lies
]NNE. of the lower lake, and leads to
the head of the Anger thai. By that
way an active walker may return to
Gastein.]
After passing the Engthorbriicke, a
short ascent leads the traveller to the N.
end of the Kassfeld, a level basin, 2 m.
long and about ^ m. broad, doubtless
the area of an ancient lake. The name
Nassfeld is often locally given to similar
spots in the Eastern Alps ; but this,
happening to lie in the way of a fre-
quented highway, is the only one gene-
rally known by that name. The timber
that once clothed the slopes having been
consumed centuries ago by the miners,
it is perfectly bare of trees — a green
carpet, through which meander many
gentle streams, surrounded by stern
slopes, above which, to the S. and SW.,
rise the snowy summits of the Hochnarr
range, extending from the Scharreek to
the Goiselspitz. It is so nearly level
that the Moserhiitte, at the N. end, close
to the opening of the Sieglitzthal, is only
16 ft. lower than the Straubingcrliillte
(5,403'), more than a mile farther S.
At these Sennhiitten, wayfarers find the
usual dairy refreshments, for which they
are expected to pay handsomely.
Besides several glacier streams de-
scending from the higher peaks, the
Isassfeld receives at its upper end a tor-
rent that flows from ESE. through the
Wcisscnbachthal, vrhich may be con-
sidered the chief source of the Gasteiner
Ache. The traveller bound for the Mall-
nitzer Tauern must avoid the path that
follows the torrent through iho last-
named glen, and leads across the ridge
dividing this from the Anlaufthal, and
should keep the more beaten track that
winds up the slopes on the S. side of the
glen. The ascent is easy, and, after
winding round a hollow just below the
top of the ridge, in 2^ hrs. from the
Moserhiitte, or o hrs. from Bad Gastein,
the traveller reaches the
Mcdlnitzer Tauern (8,038'), marked by
a wooden cross. It commands an ex-
tensive view on the Carinthian side,
extending to the Terglou, and this may
be increased by a slight ascent to an
adjoining eminence. A few min. below
the summit, on the S. side, is the Tauern-
haus, the highest of the refuges bearing
that name. The person who keep*; it is
occasionally absent, but, as a general
rule, there are found here wine, coffee,
bread, butter, and milk, ample refresh-
ment for an Alpine tourist, and a hay
couch for the benighted traveller. Posts
mark the track when the ground is
covered with snow ; otherwise no diffi-
culty is found until lower down, where
care is required not to be misled by the
numerous cattle-tracks. The Kreuz-
Kapelle (7,221') is passed in descending
to a large group of Sennhiitten — called
Manhartalp (5,810') — at the head of the
Mcdlnitzer TAa/. a trilnitary of the Moll-
thai, through which lies the way to Ober-
Vellach. Keeping mainly to the rt.
bank of the torrent, 2^ hrs.' steady walk-
ing suffice to reach
'Mallnitz (3,860'), the first village in
Carinthia, with a tolerable mounUiiu inn,
improved of late years. The landlord
is well acquainted with the surrounding
mountains, especially the neighbourhood
of the Ankotrl (.see below). A very
rough road leads hence to the Mollthal,
and equally rough vehicles are usually
to be found by those who prefer severe
jolting to travelling on foot. After pass-
ing Lassach (2,980'). the road crosses to
the 1. bank of the 3Iailnitz, and the eye
accustomed to tho stern scenery of this
part of the Tauern range rejoices in the
294
CENTUAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DLSTRICT.
i-icli foliage of fine walnut trees as the
]o;id descends rather steeply to
Oher-Vellach (2,221'), a small town,
the chief place in the Mullthal, nearly
one m. below the junction of the Mallnitz
with the Moll. There are two inns (Zum
Prinzen Lichtenstein ; Post), of which
tlie first is said to be the best, but rather
d^'ar. A chamois-hunter, named Guri,
is well acquainTed with the neighbouring
Alps. A small post-carriage plies three
times a week up the valley from Spittal
to "Winklern, and returns on the alternate
days : but the chance, even of a single
seat, is uncertain. From this place to
its junction with the Drave, the Mollthal
extends nearly straight to ESE., although
the road, which crosses the valley twice,
and winds along the base of the bound-
ing slopes, is very sinuous. The scenery
is throughout very pleasing, but more
interesting in ascending than descending,
as some of the peaks of the Ilochnarr
range are often m view. IS^umerous
Roman remains have been found here ;
the way through the Anlaufthal, noticed
below, having been a frequented Eoman
road. On the top of a hill, called
Danlehberg (3,188'), that rises imme-
diately above the 1. bank of the Moll,
about 6 m. below Ober-Vellach, stands a
chapel which was once a temple of Her-
cules, as is testified by an inscription
built into the wall. This spot commands
a fine view up and down the valley, and
the pedestrian does well to avoid the
road, which here follows the rt. bank of
the Moll, and follow a path from the
village of Penk which passes over the
Danielsberg. He rejoins the road where
it returns to the 1. bank, at the opening
of the Einkenthal. The detour scarcely
costs an hour's additional walk. After
passing KoJmitz (1,993'), aiid Miihldorf,
tlie road from Ober-Vellach joins the
high-road through the valley of the
Drave at Mvllhr'ucke ( 1 ,829'), rather more
than 13 m. from Ober-Vellach. Tra-
vellers intending to ascend the valley of
the Drave cross the Moll just above its
.junction with the latter river, by the
bridge, which is only \\ m. from Sach-
eenburg (§ 51, Kte. A), while those I
bound for Villach follow the road along
the 1. bank of the Drave to Spittal. [The
wi'iter has not seen any notice of the
ascent of the PoZm?V7^ (9,123'), a fine peak
that rises about 4 m. SW. of Ober-
Vellach. As it is the highest summit in
the mountain range that divides the val-
ley of the Moll from that of the Drave,
it must necessarily command a very fine
panoramic view.]
2. BytheWoigstensc'karte{^,OW). If
the height of the Mallnitzer Taueru has
not been, as the writer suspects, some-
what exaggerated, this is, by a few feet,
the lowest pass over the main range be-
tween the Pfitscher Joch and the Arl-
scharte, and is, at the same time, the
most direct way from Gastein to Mallnitz,
In spite of these apparent recommenda-
tions, it is rarely, if ever, used by travel-
lers ; the writer has never heard the
pass named at Bad Gastein, nor has he
seen any notice of it seeming to be
derived fr6m personal observation. The
cause of this disfavour seems to be the
existence of a small glacier on the N.
side of the pass, which may possibly
make the passage difficult. The WoirX IN POXGATJ TO VILLACH, BY
THE EADSTADTEB TAUEEN.
Radstadt .
Untertaiiem
Tv.-eng
St. ilichael
Austrian
miles
f
4
3
English
miles
3
14
Rennweg .
Giniind .
Spittd
YiUach .
2
2
2
9i
9
9
Post-read. Diligence twice a week between
Salzburg and Yillach, passing by Kadstadt, but
' not by St. Johann. Extra horses are required
for rhe passage of the Piadstadter Tauem and
the Kaischberg.
We have already seen that for a dis-
tance of more than 100 m. eastward of
I the Brenner Pass no carriage-road tra-
verses the central range of the Eastern
I Alps. It is only on the E. side of the
I mountain mass that culminates in the
I Hafaereck, where the main chain divides
I into the two parallel ranges enclosing
the valley of the rilur, that the barrier
between the waters flowing to the Drave
and those of the Danube subside low
enough to permit the construction of
the road which is known as that of the
Eadstadter Tauem. That name belongs
to the higher pass traversed by that
road, connecting the valley of the Enns
with the head waters of the ]Mur, and a
second pass (the Katschberg) must be
surmounted before the traveller can de-
scend to the valley of the Drave.
The traveller who takes this road
from SaLzbm'g to Villach does not keep
to the main road along the Salza to St.
Johann in Pongau (§ 45, Kte. E), but:
quits that stream a short way above
Werfen, and follows the post -road
through the Fritztbal, which is noticed
in § 46, Ete. F. The distance from
Werfen to Eadstadt is 4|- Austrian, or
21 English, miles. Those who come from
Gastein or the Pinzgau will natirrally
take the road here described from St.
Johann in Pongau to Ea-^Istadt, which
shortens the distance by 14 English m.
ROUTE E. — PASS OF THE RADSTADTER TAUERN.
299
That portion of the road, formerly very
rough, has been recently improved, hut
the postmaster at St. Johann sometimes
objects to supply horses, so that it is
often a better plan to hire a carriage
from Lend to Eadstadt, From the
latter place, the traveller may pursue
his journey either by diligence or post-
ing.
Although the road from St. Johann
to Eadstadt traverses the water-shed
between the Salza and the Enns, it lies
along the great line of valley which,
with trifling exceptions, forms the
northern boundary of the crystalline
rocks in the Eastern Alps. The height
of land over which the road is carried
is only about 900 ft. above the level of
the Salza, and scarcely 200 ft. above
the Enns at the point where it is first
approached. For some miles from St.
Johann, the new road mounts at a con-
siderable height above the Kleinarl-
bach, gaining a fine view over the
Pongau, backed by the crags of the
Uebergossene Alp ; it then runs nearly
at a level till it reaches Wagraiit (2.743'),
a village about 7 m. from St. Johann,
with a tolerable country inn, at the
opening of the Kleinarlthal (Ete. I).
A very easy ascent leads hence to the
pass, or height of land, dividing the
basin of the Salza from that of the
Enns, 2,933 ft. above the sea. An
interesting view is gained along the
upper Ennsthal, especially when clouds
do not cover the bold peaks of the
Pachstein group, here seen to great
advantage. A short descent along a
gentle slope leads to the Enns. This
is here an insignificant mountain stream
that issues from the Flochau. its parent
glen, further noticed in Ete. I.
The first village on the Enns is Beit-
dorf (2,751'). A little farther, on the
rt. bank of the Enns, is Altenmarkt
(2,707')> supposed to be the Eoman sta-
tion Ani, and certainly the original site
of Eadstadt, which stands about 3 m.
lower down, on the opposite bank of
the Enns, just above its junction with
the Tauern Ache. It is noticed in § 47
Ete. A.
The lladsladter Tauern is one of tliose
Alpine routes that deserves more ceie-
brity than it has hitherto obtained.
The scenery offers i-AV more of variety
and interest than the more famous pass
of the Brenner, and has special attrac-
tions for the geologist and the botanist,
who should arrange their journey so as
to pass some hours at the summit. The
ascent commences close to the town of
Eadstadt, where the stream of the
Tauern Ache, descending from the pass,
unites with the Enns. ^Eirst by the 1.,
then by the rt. bank, the road ascends
gently through the lower part of the glen
to the pictiu-esque village of
Unter- Tauern (3,338'). The nearer
wooded slopes are backed by the rugged
mass of the Wmdsfdd (8,532') which
rises to the rt. of the pass. Here the
ascent becomes more rapid, and the
road passes through a defile— the Tau-
ernklamm — close to the foaming rapids
of the Ache. Higher up, that torrent
forms a high waterfall, but partially
seen from the road. Tourists usually
make a_ slight detour to visit it, ba
may enjoy the view of a second, less
lofty, but more picturesque fall without
quitting the road. Higher up, on reach-
ing the level pastures of the Gnadou-
alp (4,055'), the road bears to the 1.
away from tlie torrent, and begins to
mount the slope of the mountain. To
attain the vippermost shelf in the valley,
the road turns abruptly eastward, nearly
at rt. angles to its previous direction,
while the torrent disappears altogether
from view. It is usual to halt where a
path turns aside with a finger-post in-
scribed ' Nach dem JohannsfalL' It is
worth while to follow the indication,
not so much for the sake of the water-
fall as for the remarkable conformation
of the rocks around it. Issuing from a
narrow cleft, the torrent springs into a
hollow abyss 600 ft. deep, and is turned
into a cloud of spray before it reaches
the bottom. A last ascent leads from
this point to the Tauernhaus, locally
known by the name WicsenecJc. The
group of houses, including the large
inn and refuge, a chapel, and a priest's
300
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS.
52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
h:
undertaken except from the E. side,
where, at the village of Mur, severaJ.
competent guides are to be found Leo-
pold Genser, Peter Simmerl, KuperC
Schiefer, and Paul Konig are all re-
commended. .Che pass here mentioned
as well as thzu over the Eothgilden-
scharte, next en ^merated, are not likely
to be selected b} a traveller going from
St. Johann to St. Michael, or vice versa,
as they involve a considerable detour,
yet show nothing of the finest portions
of the Maltathal. But the way through
the Moritzenthal offers a very direct
route from St. Michael to Bad Gastein ;
going on the first day to the Eechen-
biichlhiitte, and on the next crossing
the Klein-Elendscharte to the Kot-
schachthal (Rte. 0). Supposing that
the distance from Mur to the Rechen-
i biichlhiitte can be accomplished in
7 hrs., the whole distance from Mur
to Bad Gastein rpquires 15 hrs., ex-
clusive of halts. This was accomplished
in one day by the late Archdulie John,
before Alpine Clubs had come into
existence. The opening of the Moritzen-
thal is about 3 hrs. above Mur. It is
said to be a short wild glen, encom-
passed by rocks and snow-slopes, in the
midst of which lie three small lakes.
Above these lies the pass which leads to
the head of the Maltagraben at the
Samerhiitte. The way is said to be
laborious and rather difficult ; but no
details have reached the writer.
4. By the Rothgildenscharte. Eor
the reason above mentioned, this pass
must be approached from the E. side.
The Bothgildenthal is the finest of the
lateral glens of the upper Murthal, and
the traveller whose course lies eastward
along that river or its tributaries may
here bid adieu to the characteristic
scenery of the high Alps. In this glen
are important mines of arsenical ores,
from which as much as 100 tons of
white arsenic are said to be annually
extxacted. The process is carried on
314
CENTRAL TYROL ALPS. § 52. GASTEIN DISTRICT.
in winter, when the ground is covered
with snow, in order to avoid poisoning
the cattle pastured on the surrounding
slopes. The glen contains two lakes, of
which the larger, called Rogeler See, is
enclosed between steep faces of rock,
above which rises the rugged peak of
the Hafnereck, and others scarcely in-
ferior in height. Masses of permanent
snow rest in the rifts ; while in the
uppermost hollow, N. of the main peak,
lies a rather considerable glacier.
To the rt. of the Hafnereck is the
pass of the Bothgildenscharte. It is
described as difficxilt, and even danger-
ous, on account of a crumbling mass of
steep rocks, a little below the summit
on the E. side, which must be climbed
in order to reach the ridge. The descent
is to the Wastelalp in the Malta-
graben (Rte. F), It is said that those
bound for the lower part of the Malta-
thai may reach that valley at a point
lower than the Wastelalp, by bearing
to the 1. to the Mairalp. But by
ta,king this course the traveller would
lose some of the finest scenery of the
Maltagraben.
The ascent oi t\ie Hafiicreck (10,044')
is said to be impracticable from the
side of the Murwinkel, and the course
taken by the few travellers who have
climbed the peak has been to mount
from the village of Mur, along the ridge
dividing the Murwinkel from the head of
the Lieserthal, and, passing round the
peak, to reach the summit from the SE.
side. The ascent may probably be
shorter and easier from the Traxhiitte,
in the Maltagraben.
The pass from Mur to the head of
the Lieserthal by the Buchlwand is said
not to be difficult, and a fine walk may
thus be made to Eennweg, on the high-
road from St. Michael to Gmiind.
Much information respecting the Lun-
gau district, including the upper valley
of the Mur and its tributaries, is fouiid
in a paper by Dr. Wallmann, in the
' Mittheilungen of the Austrian Alpine
Club for 1864,' but more detailed and
accurate information as to the passes
connected with the Maltathal and the
upper branches of the Mur Valley is
much to be desired, and will be thank -
fully received by the writer.
BALL'S ALPINE GUIDES,
LATEST EDITIONS.
The Alpine (jUide. By John Ball, M.R.I.A. late Presi-
dent of the Alpine Club. Post 8vo. with Maps and other
Illustrations, in Three Volumes, as foUows : —
The Guide to the Eastern Alps, price lOs. 6d.
The Griiide to the Western Alps, including Mont Blanc,
Monte Rosa, Zermatt, &c. price 6s. 6d.
Grnide to the Central Alps, including aU the Oberland
District, price 7s. Cd.
Introduction on Alpine Travelling in general, and on the
Geology of the Alps, price Is. Either of the Three Volumes
or Parts of the Alpine Guide may be had with this Inteo-
DucTiON prefixed, price Is. extra.
To be had also, for (he convenience of Travellers visiting particular Districts, in Ten
Sections as follows, each complete in itself, with General and Special Maps : —
THE BEKNESE OBERLAND, price 2s. 6d.
MONT BLANC and MONTE BOSA, price 2s. Qd.
DAUPHINE and PIEDMONT, from Nice to the Little St.
Bernard, price 2.5-. Qd.
NORTH S"WITZERLAND, including the Eighi, Zurich, and
Lucerne, price 2s. Qd.
The ST. GOTHARD PASS and the ITALIAN LAKES,
price 2s. iid.
EAST S^^ITZERLAND, including the Engadine and the
Lombard Valleys, price 2s, Qd.
NORTH TYROL, the Bavarian and Salzburg Alps, price 25. Gd.
CENTRAL TYROL, including the Gross Glockner, price 2s. Qd.
SOUTH TYROL and VENETIAN or DOLOMITE ALPS,
pr;ce 26. Qd.
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London : LONGMANS and CO.
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