f . /--f /^-/^'^ - / "■y^. THE IMPERIAL GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND; OR DICTIOMEY OF SCOTTISH TOPOGRAPHY, COMPILED FROM THE MOST RECENT AUTHORITIES, AND FORMING A COMPLETE BODY OF SCOTTISH GEOGEAPHY, PHYSICAL, STATISTICAL, AND HISTORICAL. EDITED BY THE REV. JOHN MARIUS WILSON. ILLUSTRATED WITH A COMPLETE COUNTY ATLAS, VARIOUS CHORGGRAPHICAL MAPS, PLANS OF PORTS, HARBOURS, AND INTERESTING VIEWS. VOL. in. GORDON-MONTROSE. A. FULLARTON & CO., STEAD'S PLACE, LEITH WALK, EDINBURGH; AND 73 NEWGATE STREET, LONDON. 'A-^ u / <'^ . C° I,oadoji 8c Kdmbur'-ii A-fuIlarton. &C° Londcm & Eiiabur^. ^ >..i: N.' ,1 '!^^ "WiBiHiiiiiiiiiii rm„ ■■ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Kj^^^^BB^^^^^^BKKm w i ^mti ^Hl^^H V. V. vy AMUrtcn <£ C ? Londijn. & Edmbcirgli. A-FuHartoa it C ° Loadaa * Edinbiir^-b.. THE IMPERIAL GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND. GORDON-CxASTLE. GORM. GORDON - CASTLE, or Castle - Gordon, the Scottish seat of the Duke of Richmond, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Gordon, in the parisli of Bellie, Morayshire. It stands on the eastern verge of the county, between the old and the new course of the Spey, about a mile north of Fochabers. It is approiiched, on the high road between Fochabers and the Spey, by a gateway, consisting of a lofty arch, between two domes, and elegantly finished. The road thence winds about a mile through a green parterre, skirted with flowering shrubbery, and groups of tall spreading trees, till it is lost in an oval in front of the castle. There is, besides this, another approach from the east, sweeping for several miles through the varied scenery of the park, and enlivened by different pleasant views of the country around, the river, and the ocean. The castle stands on a flat, at some distance from the Moray frith, from which the ground gradually as- cends ; but it possesses a much finer view than might be supposed in such a situation, commanding as it does the whole plain, with all its wood, and a variety of reaches on the river, together with the town and shipping of Garmouth. The original of the castle was a gloomy tower, in the centre of a morass, called the Bog of Gight, and accessible only by a narrow causeway and bridge. See Bog OP Gight. But the pi'esent pile is a grand pala- tial quadrangular mass of edifices, with a frontage of no less than 568 feet. Its breadth, however, is various, and its whole style a harmonized di- versity ; insomuch that the breaks arising from the diff"erent depths create a variety of light and shade which obviates the appearance of excess in uniformity throughout so great a frontage. The body of the pile is of four stories. In its southern front stands entire the tower of the original castle, harmonizing ingeniously with the modern palace, and rising many feet above it. Tlie wings are mag- nificent pavilions of two lofty stories, connected by galleries of two lower stories ; and beyond the pavi- lions are extend,ed to either hand buildings of one floor and an attic story. The whole edifice is exter- nally of white, hard, finely dressed Elgin freestone, and finished all around with a fine cornice and a handsome battlement. Its internal arrangements and decorations, as also the embellishments of its park, are in good keeping with its imposing exterior. The dukedom of Gordon was created in 1684. The fifth and last Duke died in 1836. He was also Mar- quis of Huntly, Earl of Huntly, Viscount of Inver- II. ness, and Baron of Badenoch, Lochaber, Strath- aven, Balmore, Achindoun, Gartly, and Kincardine, in the peerage of Scotland ; and Earl of Norwich, and Baron Gordon of Huntly, in the peerage of Great Britain. At his death, his estates passed partly to the Earl of Aboyne and partly to the Duke of Richmond ; his titles of Marquis of Huntly and Baron of Badenoch passed to the Earl of Aboyne, and his other titles became extinct. GORDON-PORT. See Port-Gordox. GORDONSBURGH. See Maryburgh. GORDON'S MILLS, a small village, on the south shore of the Cromarty frith, at the mouth of the Resolis burn, in the parish of Resolis, Cromart}^- shire. An establishment here was occupied for some time as a snuff-manufactory, and afterwards as a wool-carding-mill. GORDON'S MILLS, Aberdeenshire. See Aber- deen. GORDONSTOWN, a village in the parish of Auchterless, Aberdeenshire. Population 98. See AUCHTERI.ESS. GORE (The), a rivulet of the south-east of Edin- burghshire. It is formed by the confluence of the north and south Middleton burns, at the centre of the parish of Borthwick; and it runs 3 J miles north- westward thence, to a junction with the South Esk, at the picturesque locality of Shank Point. GOREBRIDGE, a post-office village, in the de- tached district of the parish of Temple, Edinburgh- shire. It stands on Gore water, contiguous to the village of Stobbs, 10 miles south-east by south of Edinburgh. It has an United Presbyterian church, two schools, and a subscription library; and is a station of the county police. There is a station for it on the Hawick branch of the North British railway ; but the distance of that from Edinburgh, by the railway route, is 12 miles. Population in 1861, 4i6. See Stobbs. GORGASK (The), a bum, occasionally swelled into an impetuous torrent, in the parish of Laggan, Inverness-shire. GORIESHILL. See Don (The). GORM (Loch), a small lake, excellent for ang- ling, in the parish of Kiltarlity, on the north border of Inverness-shire. GORM (Loch), a considerable lake, of picturesque character, in the parish of Assynt, Sutherlandshire. GORM (Loch), a lake of 600' acres in extent, and from 5 to 7 feet deep, in the parish of Kilchoman, island of Islay. It abounds in small trout. A GORTLICK. GOUROCK. GORMACK. See CAruTii. GOKTHY. See Fowlis Wester. GORTLICK, or Gortleo, a post-office station, in the parisli of Dores, Invcrness-shire. See Dores. GOSELANU, a hill, ahout 1,700 feet high, in the parish of Kilbuclio, Peebles-shire. GOSFOKU. See Aberlaoy. GOSSABURGH, a post-office station, suljordinate to Lerwick, in Shetland. GOULDIE, a village in the parish of Monikie, Forfarshire. GOULFi'S DEN. Sec Kilmanv. GOUKDIE. See Currie. GOURDON, a fishing-village in the parish of Bervie, 1 J mile south of the town of Bcrvie, Kincar- dineshire. It has about 20 boats employed variously in fishing, and is also a shipping-place for grain, and a place of import for coals, lime, and other common bulky articles. Its harbour was improved a few years ago, at a cost of about £2,000, and now serves as a place of commerce for a tract of sea- board intermediate between Stonehaven and Mon- trose. Vessels drawing 12 feet of water can enter it at ebb tide, and lie at anchor till the flood carry them to the point of the quay, where it rises 17 feet. Contiguous to the harbour are several large excel- lent granaries, with extensive sheds for lime, &c. Population. 4!) 7. GOUKDON HILL. See Bervie. GOUROCK, a post-town, burgh of barony, small sea-port, and fashionable w\itering- place, in the parish of Innerkip, Renfrewshire. It commences at a spot about 2^ miles below Greenock, and wends about IJ mile along the shore. Its main part is Gourock proper, extending from the extreme east to Kempoek Point, in a sweeping cui^ve round Gourock bay, the eastern portion looking north- ward, direct across the frith to Roseneath, and the western portion looking eastward, or east-north- eastward obliquely to Helensburgh. The part be- low Kempoek Point is Ashton, extending in a slight curve along the shore towards the south-west, and looking north-westward direct across the frith to Kilmun hill, and the Holy Loch, and Dunoon. See AsHTON. A large proportion of the whole town lines the landward side of the Greenock and Inner- kip road, running nearly on a dead level close to the beach, only two or three feet above high-water mark ; and two-thirds of this in Gourock proper, as well as a small portion past Kempoek Point, con- sists mainly of continuous lines or blocks of two or three story houses, the lower stoiy much disposed in shops. But some of Gourock proper toward the east, and the greater part of all Ashton, are princi- pally chains of villas and cottages ornees. The central part of the town, also, onward to the vicinity of Kempoek, rises backward in a gentle brae, par- tially occupied with short transverse streets, and here and there crowned either with the public build- ings, or with the most ambitious of the private resi- dences. The view seaward from the town is every- where charming, and comprises much diversity ; the ground behind rises rapidly to steep faces of trappean hills, whose sides offer a tempting ramble to pedestrians, and lead up to exquisite Clyde-com- manding summits ; the gentlest part of the ascent, situated toward the east end of Gourock proper, and comprising some exquisite close scenery, is occupied by the park and mansion of Gourock house, the scat of D. Darroch, Esq. ; and the whole town, for its neat, cleanly, cheerful aspect, for its snug, spruce, comfortable abodes, for its well-built, convenient Btone-pier and jetty, and for its ready command of good bathing-ground, and of the general conveni- ences and comforts of life, is well-worthy of the re- putation it has acquired as a first-class watering place. Were it situated much further than it is from Glasgow, it could not fail to obtain favour ; hut happening to be the most accessible to the Glasgow citizens of all their many watering-places, it is always crowded in summer, and sometimes con- tains not a few sojourners even in winter. The bay of Gourock possesses great advantages for a sea-port, being well-sheltered, and unobstructed by bank or shoal, and having depth of water for vessels of any burden ; nevertheless, the shipping- trade has been attracted higher up the frith. So early as the year 1494, when Greenock was a mean fishing-village, and long before Port- Glasgow was known even by name, the eligibility of Gourock as a haven was appreciated. This appears from an indenture entered into at Edinburgh on the 27th of December, 1494, between that redoubted seaman. Sir Andrew Wood of Largs, and other two per- sons, on behalf of the King, on the one part, and " Nicholas of Bour, maister, under God, of the schip called the Vei'dour," on the other part, whereby it was stipulated that "the said Nicholas sail, God willing, bring the said Verdour, with mariners and stuff for them, as effeirs, to the Goraik, on the west bordour and sey [sea], audit mylis fra Dunbertain, or tharby, be the first day of the moneth of May nixt to cum, and there the said Nicholas sail, with grace of God, ressave within the said schip thre hundreth men boden for wer [equipped for war], furnist with ther vitales [victuals], harnes, and ar- tilzery, efi'eirand to sa mony men, to pass with the kingis hienes, at his plessore, and his lieutennentes and deputis, for the space of twa monthis nixt, and immediat folowand the said first day of May, and put thaim on land, and ressave thaim again ;" for which there was to be given to the shipmaster £300 Scots money, being at the rate of £1 Scots for each man. From the terms of this agreement, and irom the spot appointed for the rendezvous being on the west coast, it is evident that the vessel was fit- ted out for the use of the King himself, James IV., in one of the voyages which he undertook, about the time in question, to the Western isles, for the purpose of bringing their turbulent inhabitants into subjection ; and at Gourock, in all probabi- lity, he embarked. — The lands of Gourock fonned the western part of the baronj' of Finnart, which belonged to the great family of Douglas. On the forfeiture of their estates in 1455, this portion was conferred by the Crown on the Stewarts of Castlemilk, from whom it was called Finnart-Stew- art. It continued in their possession till 1784, when it was sold to Duncan Darroch, Esq., to whose de- scendant it now belongs. About the year 1747, the old castle of Gom-ockwas entirely removed, and the present mansion erected near its site. The town of Gourock has, we believe, been re- sorted to for sea-bathing longer than any other place on this coast. In 1 694 it was created a burgh- of-barony, with the right of holding a weekly mar- ket on Tuesday, and two annual fairs. Power was also given to form a " harbour and port," in virtue of which there was probably constracted the old quay, which was supplanted about 1 5 years ago by the present substantial and convenient one. A great proportion of the permanent inhabitants are engaged in the herring and white fishery. This was the first place in Britain where red her- rings w^ere prepared. The practice was introduced, towards the end of the 17th century, by Walter Gibson, an entei-prising Glasgow merchant, who was provost of that city in 1688, and of whom our authority — Semple, in his History of Renfrewshire —says, he " may justly be styled the father of the GOUROCK. GOVAN. trade of all the west coasts.'' The curing of red herrings has long since been abandoned here ; as has also the preparation of salt in connection with it, for which pans were constracted. A considera- ble rope-work was carried on from 1777 to 1851 ; and whinstone for street-paving is quarried in the vici- nity. About 1780, an attempt was made for coal in th'j neighbourhood ; but meeting with copper ore, the undertakers were diverted from their first ob- ject. " This new discovery," says the Old Statis- tical reporter, " promised well both in richness and quantity ; but being wrought by a company who were chiefly engaged in England, it was so man- aged as to defeat the expectation." Kempock Point, which forms the westei'n termi- nation of the bay, is crowned by a long upright fragment of rock, called " Kempock stane," which, it is said, indicates the spot where a saint of old dispensed favourable winds to the navigators of the adjacent waters. The stone is without any sculp- ture or inscription. Some superstitious belief ap- pears to have been connected with it in former times ; for at the trial of the Innerkip witches, in 1662, one of them, Mary Lamont, an infatuated creature, aged only 18, confessed that she and some other women, who were in compact with the devil, held " a meeting at Kempock, where they intended to cast the long stone into the sea, thereby to de- stroy boats and ships." Kempock Point consists of a mass of light blue columnar porphviy, abutting from a hill of the same materials which has been quarried to a great extent. In our own time, this abrupt point of land has become memorable on ac- count of two melancholy accidents which took place on the frith close to it. The first occurred to a vessel called the Catherine of lona, which was run down by a steam -boat during the night of the 1 Otl] of August, 1822, when 42 persons perished out of 46. The other catastrophe was that of the Comet steamer, which, when rounding the point, at about the same spot, was run on board, and instantly sunk, by an- other steam-vessel, about 60 human beings losing their lives. A chapel of ease, a very plain edifice, was built at the east end of Gourock about the year 1776 ; and a burying-ground which was attached to it is still in use. A new chapel of ease, a neat struc- ture, with a square battlemented towei% and con- taining 947 sittings, was built by subscription in 1832, on the face of the brae, near the middle of Gourock proper; and though it cost only about £2,300, it has a pleasing, prominent, and almost or- namental eifect. An attempt has recently been made to get this constituted a quoad sacra parish church. There are also a Free church congregation, who have now an elegant new church in the course of erection, and an United Presbyterian church built in 1845. The town has likewise a school in connexion with the Established church, a school in connexion with the Free church, a school of industry, Established church and Free church piil^lic libraries, a circulating library, a clothing so- ciety, a gas-light company, and a pier and hai-bour company ; and it enjoys such near and constant communication with Greenock as to share readily in the facilities of that town's banks, markets, and general institutions. Omnibuses run hourly in sum- mer, and frequently in winter, throughout every day to Greenock; and steamers call almost as often at the quay, sometimes several within an hour, in transit between Glasgow and the watering places farther down the frith. Gourock is also a station of the coast guai'd, and has a ferry of its own to Kil- creggan. Population in 1841, 2,169; in 1861, 2,070. But this population is perhaps trebled, or nearly so, during the greater part of the bathing season. GOUROCK BURN, a burn rising near the east- ern limits of the parish of West Kilbride, Ayrshire, and i-unning westward through that parish to the frith of Clyde. GOVAN, a parish, partly in Renfrewshire, but chiefly in Lanarkshire. It contains the post-town of Govan, the village of Strathbungo, and the gi-eater part of the post-town of Partick. It is bounded by New Kilpatrick, Barony, Glasgow, Gorbals, Ruther- glen, Cathcart, Eastwood, Abbey - Paisley, and Renfrew. Its length north-westward is about 6 miles ; its greatest breadth is about 3 miles ; and its area is about 10 square miles. Part of it quoad civilia comprises the larger portion of the great southern suburb of Glasgow; but this was long ago annexed quoad sacra to the small parish of Goi-bals, and is now commonly included, in the census returns and othei-wise, in what is called the barony and parish of Gorbals. See Glasgow. The rest of the parish, though containing some of the outskirts of Glasgow, chiefly lines of villas, and notwithstanding its own towns of Govan and Par- tick, which are in a large degree straggling or out- spread, may be regarded as all landward. It ex- tends along the left bank of the Clyde from the boundary' with Rutherglen to the foot of the town of Govan ; and thence it continues along the same bank to a point in the vicinity of the town of Ren- frew, and also comprises a tract on the right bank of nearly square outline, about 2 miles each way, bounded on the side next Glasgow by the river Kelvin. The tract on the left bank of the Clyde used to be called the township or territory of Go- van ; and the tract on the right bank, the township or territory of Partick. The portion in Renfrew- shire comprises the lands of Haggs, Titwood, and Shields, and contains the village of Strathbungo. The upper part of the parish is all a rich flat ground. The lower part also is a richly cultivated plain throughout the centre, skirted on both sides by ground slightly elevated, and of soft, undulat- ing ornate appearance. All the land is arable ; and most of it has excellent soil. Part was once a heathy waste, called Govan moor ; but even this is now all disposed in well-cultivated fields, producing as luxuriant crops as any in the kingdom. The com- mon enclosure throughout the parish is the quick- set hedge ; trees are sufficiently numerous to pro- duce here and there a feathery or tufted appear- ance ; villas, with their attendant decorations, are profusely sprinkled in many parts, particiUarly in the upper district and around Partick ; and the very appliances of manufacture, mining, and commerce, which figure prominently on the Clyde, happen to produce picturesque effects; so that the aggre- gate aspect of the parish, especially to any eye which delights most in the English style of land- scape, is eminently pleasing. The principal land- owners are the patrons of Hutchison's Hospital in Glasgow, the city corporation of Glasgow, the incorporated trades of Glasgow, Sir John Max- well, Bart., Oswald of Scotstown, Smith of Jordan- hill, Speirs of Elderslie, Johnstone of Shieldhall, Rouan of Holmfauldhead, and Steven of Bella- houston. The valued rental is not quite £5,000 Scots; yet the yearly value of real propertv as as- certained in 1860 is £109,870 sterling, and the average yearly value of raw produce, as estimated in 1840, £90.045. On Whiteinch faiTn, a low-lying tract of G8 acres on the right bank of tlie Clyde, about a mile below Partick, there has been depo- sited, throughout a series of years, at vast expense to the Qyde trustees, an enormous amount of the GOYAN. GOV AN. mud which is lifted by the dredging machines fiom the bottom of the river, and brought hither from long distances in punts ; the proprietor of the farm simplv havin? given his permission under fixed con- dition's of depth and extent, but deriving an ample compensation in the speedy enhancement of the area deposited upon to nearly double of its previous value. Within the last sixty years the salmon-fishings in the Clyde, belonging "to the heritors of Govan, used to be valuable, and have been let for so much as £330 annually ; but the mass of pernicious mat- ter now held in solution by the river, the refuse of the manufactories along its banks, and the ever- lasting stirring and turmoil of its waters from tlie revolution of steam-boat paddles, have so deterior- ated these fisheries as to reduce the rental to £25 per annum ; and the wonder is that salmon can exist in it at all. The mineral wealth of the parish yields no less than about four-ninths of the entire yearly value of its raw produce, — coal, £30,000, and quarry- stones, ironstone, and brick-clay, £10,000. The coal has been worked from a very remote period, and forms part of the celebrated ' Glasgow field,' to which the city is .so much indebted for its wealth and population. This coal is of the best quality ; and in some parts of the parish it is so abundant that, within 50 fathoms of the surface, no fewer than 16 separate beds have been found, the thick- ness of which varies from 4 inches to 2 feet. There likewise occur along with them, in some parts, va- luable seams of black-baud ironstone and clay-band ironstone, the fonner varying from 10 to 15 inches in thickness, and the latter from 6 to 12 inches. Extensive irou-works are in operation at Govan- hill, in the south-east outskirts of Gorbals, com- prising hot -blast furnaces which produce about 4,000 tons of pig-iron yearly, and puddling fumaces capable of producing 400 tons of bar-iron weekly. There are various manufactories at Partick, which will be noticed in our article on that place. A con- siderable aggregate of the manufacturing industry of Gorbals, together with some of the special seats or premises of it, might be identified with Govan parish ; but being worked by Glasgow capital, and intermixed with strictly Glasgow industry, may be allowed to stand properly to the account of Glas- gow. At the town of Govan is an extensive dye- work ; there also is a large, well-built, trimly-kept silk factoiy, which was the first of its kind in Scot- land, and erected in 1824 ; and both there and on the opposite bank of the Clyde, immediately below the influx of the Kelvin, are extensive ship-building yards, where of late years many noble vessels have been constructed, and where often the multitu- dinous clang of hammers in driving the rivets of iron hulls is almost deafening to persons on board the passing steamers on the river. In a yard at the right side of the mouth of the Keh-in, are two re- cently-constnicted glazed sheds, of sufficient size to contain each a very large hull, and of such architec- tural design as to be fine ornaments to the locality. Govan parish, from its all lying in the vicinity of Glasgow, and being partly dovetailed into that city's outskirts, necessarily enjoys extraordinary facilities of communication. Four" great roads traverse it. One of these leads from Glasgow to Paisley ; a se- cond from Glasgow to Kilmarnock and Avr ;" a third, parallel with, and on the south bank of "the Clyde, leads through Eenfrew to Port-Glasgow ; and the fourth, also parallel with, but on the north bank of the river, forms the carriage road to Dumbarton and the West Highlands. The Glasgow, Paisley, and John- stone canal also passes through the southern division of the parish ; and the brar.ch of the Forth and Clyde canal, which joins the Clyde at Bowling bay, skirts for a short distance its northern boundary The great joint trunk to Paisley of the Glasgow and Greenock, and the Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr railways likewise passes through the parish for nearlv 3 miles. A commodious ferrj' at the foot of the town of Govan, maintains constant comrauni- carion with the opposite bank of the Clyde, and is provided with a horse and carriage boat, and with good landing-places. Here also the river steamers land and receive passengers. The scenery of active life along the Clyde here is thrillingly animated and remarkably picturesque. Morning, noon, and night, the river is traversed by steam-vessels of every size, and by sailing vessels, bound to and from the most distant parts of the earth's confines. The river's banks also exhibit much variety of landscape — beautifully cultivated fields and thriving belts of plantation, sprinkled with the handsome villas of the Glasgow citizens — while the niral towns of Govan and Partick burst upon the gaze with a truly panoramic effect. Nowhere has the hand of improve- ment been more decidedly apparent than upon this portion of the Clyde. In some old legal instmments in the Glasgow chartulaiy, there are mentioned, " The islands between Govan and Partick ; " but these have long since ceased to be. Even so late as 1770, the depth of the river at the mouth of the Kelvin, as surveyed by the celebrated James Watt, was only 3 feet 8 inches at high-water, and 1 foot 6 inches at low water ; and Patrick Bryce, tacks- man of the Gorbals ' coal-heugh,' complains, in 1660, to the magistrates of Glasgow, that he could not get his coals loaded at the Broomielaw from a scarcity of water, and that he had been necessitated on this account to crave license to lead them through the lands of Sir George Maxwell of Xether Pollock, for the purpose of loading them " neare to Meikle Govane." Up till 1770, indeed, this portion of the Clyde could with difficulty be navigated by vessels of more than 30 tons burthen ; but now the depth of water is from 1 6 to 17 feet, and foreign merchant- men of 600 tons burthen sail along it from the sea to the harbour of the Broomielaw. See article Clyde (The). Population of the parish in 1831, 5.677; in 1861, 100,716. Houses, 5,683. Population of the Renfrewshire section in 1831, 710; in 1861, 8,870. Houses, 375. This parish is in the pi'esbytery of Glasgow, and s\mod of Glasgow and Avr. Patron, the University of Glasgow. Stipend, £432 Is. 8d. ; glebe, £24; un- appropriated teinds, £672 Is. 5d. The parish church is situated within 100 yards of the Clyde, at the foot of the town of Govan, and was built in 1826, after a plan by Mr Smith of Jordanhill, and con- tains nearly 1,100 sittings. It is a simple Gothic structure, with battlements and lancet windows, and has a tower and spire, in imitation of those of the church of Stratford-upon-Avon. The churchj-ard has a romantic appearance, and is fringed with a double row of venerable elms. There is a chapel of ease at Partick, which was built in 1834, and con- tains. 580 sittings, and is in the presentation of the subscribers and managers. There is also a chapel of ease at Strathbungo, which was built in 1841, and is in the presentation of the subscribers. There is a Free church at Govan, with an attendance of 370; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £352 Us. 10 Jd. There is also a Free church at Pai-tick, with an attendance of 300 ; and the sum rais- ed in connexion with it in 1855 was £501 2s. OJd. There is an United Presbyterian church in Govan, which rose out of a preaching station maintained for many years in a schoolhouse. There are two United Presbyterian churches ic P&rti;k tbs East and the West, both built in 1824, lue 4:!rm*'. containing 600 CiOVAN. GOVAN. sittings, and the latter 840. There is also a Wes- leyan Methodist meeting in Partick. There are also three home missionaries in the paiish, one of them for the Govan district, and the other two for the Partick district. The parochial school is situated in the town of Govan ; and the income of the master, be- sides fees, amounts to £50 of salary and about £-16 other emoluments, — for part of which gratuitous education is given to ten poor children. There are also in the town of Govan a Free church school, an United Presbyterian school, a subscription school, and a school of industiy for females ; there are in Partick a west-end academy conducted by four masters, another academy conducted by one master, an old subscription school, a Free church public school, a Free church school of industry, a ladies' school, a general public school, a school of industr}- for females, Samuel Wilson's school, and a Eoman Catholic school; and there are, at Strathbungo and Threemilehouse, other non-parochial schools. There are two public libraries, the one in the town of Govan, the other in Partick, — the former bequeathed by a former minister of the parish, and called Thorn's library, the latter connected with what is called Partick popular institution. Under grants by David I., confirmed by the bulls of several popes, the whole parish of Govan, including the part now annexed to Gorbals, belong- ed formerly, both in property and in superiority, to the Bishop of Glasgow, and was included in the royalty of Glasgow. The church of Govan — or Guvau, as it was formerly termed — with the tithes and lands pertaining to it, was constituted a prebend of the cathedral of Glasgow by John, Bishop of Glasgow, who died about 1147; and continued so till the Reformation. The prebendary drew the emoluments, and paid a curate for serving the cure. The patronage belonged to the see of Glasgow ; but at the Reformation was assumed by the Crown. In 1577 the parsonage and vicarage of Govan, with all the lands and revenues, were granted by the King, in mortmain, to the college of Glasgow; and by the new erection of the college, at that date, it was ruled that the principal of the university should officiate in the church of Govan every Sabbath. This practice continued from 1577 till 1621, when the principal was absolved from this duty, and a separate minister was appointed for the parish, to whom a stipend was assigned from the tithes. For more than a century previous to 1825, the university of Glasgow, by successive renewals from the Crown, enjoyed a beneficial lease of the feu-duties, rents, and revenues, which were paid by the heritors of Govan to the Crown, as coming in the place of the Archbishop ; but the lease was discontinued at the time stated. To make up for it so far, however, the Crown granted to the college, in 1826, an annuity of £800 for fourteen years. The first minister of Govan after the Reformation was Andrew Melville, who was at the same time principal of the univer- sity ; and it is related by his nephew, that the Re- gent Morton offered this " guid benefice, peying four- and-twentie chalder of \rictuaU" to him, on condition that he would not urge upon the government or the church his peculiar views of ecclesiastical polity. For the purpose of winning Melville to his side, the Regent kept the living in the hands of the Crown for nearly two years ; and finally granted the tem- poraliries to the college of Glasgow, imposing upon he principal the dutj^ of ser\-ing the cure, Morton intending thereby, as Melville's nephew states, ''to flemearit Mr. Andro, and cause him relent from dealling against bischopes; but God keepit his awin ■servant in uprightnes and treuthe in the middis of • iianie heavip tentations." The hospital of Polmadie was situated in this par- ish, near the place which still bears its name. It was a refuge for persons of both sexes, and was en- dowed with the church and temporalities of Strath- blane, along with part of the lands of Little Govan. Xo trace of the ruins of the hospital now remains. — St. Xinian's hospital, for the reception of persons af- flicted with leprosy, was founded by Lady Lochore in the middle of the 14th century, and is understood to have been situated near the river, between the Main-street of Gorbals and Muirhead-street. A con- siderable extent of ground, including that upon which part of Hutchesontown is built, was called St. Ninian's croft. AMien the house of Elphinstone obtained the lands of Gorbals, the revenues of the hospital were misapplied, and the care of the 'lepers' afte:"*vards devolved upon the kirk-session of Glas- gow. — Hagg"s castle, in this parish, is a very inter- esting and picturesque ruin. It was built by an ancestor of the house of Maxwell of Pollock, and was, for a long time, the jointure-house of that family. It appears to have been a building of con- siderable strength. It is intimately and painfully associated with the transactions of those iron times when Scotland groaned under a 'broken covenant and a persecuted kirk.' In November 1667, the Episcopal authorities of Glasgow, having heard that a conventicle had been held in Hagg"s castle, sum- moned the persons reported to have been present to appear before them on the 20th of the same month. Amongst others, John Logan was arraigned, and he boldly confessed " that he was present at ye said conventickle, and not onlie refused to give his oath to declare who preached, or wer then present, but furder declared he would not be a Judas, as otheris, to delate any that wer ther present." The names of Logan and of others in the same situation, were given in to the Archbishop ; but the pimishment which was meted out has not been recorded. AVod- row, in his history, states that, in 1676, Mr. Alex- ander Jamieson, who had been thrast forth the par- ish of Govan on account of his refusal to conform to " black prelacy," "gave the sacrament in the house of the Haggs, within 2 miles of Glasgow, along with another clergyman. Mr. Jamieson did not again drink of the -s-rne tiU he di-ank it new in the Father's kingdom." It is weU known that the family of Pollock suffered severely for their resistance to Epis- copacy, and for succouring the Covenanters, and al- lowing them a place of meeting for their conven- ricles. Sir John Maxwell was fined by the privy- council in 1684, in the sum of £8,000 sterling; and when he refused to pay this tyrannical exaction he was imprisoned for 16 months. See Glasgow. The Towx of Govan stands on the road from Glasgow to Renfrew. It consists principally of a single sti-eet, extending along that road, and about a mile in length. Its upper end is about a mile from Tradeston, the nearest part of the Glasgow suburbs; and its lower end is about 3 miles from the centre of Glasgow. The Clyde, opposite to it, makes a grand cm-ve, with the convexity to the north ; so that the town and the rivers cui-ve are related to each other like the stiing and the bow, being in contact only at the ends, and most widely separated at the middle. A great part of the space between them, however, is ornate with grass and garden-ground; the lower part is occupied by the ship-building yards and the dye-works; and "the whole is fringed, upon the river's bank, with an open walk. The town, as to its edifices, is far from town-like, consisting largely of straggling lines of one-story houses, numerously inhabited by weavers, and many of them old and dingy; but it has of late been assuming a sprucer character; it boiTOWs much beauty from the iieai GOWANSBAXK. GRAMPIANS. vicinity of numerous villas, — some of which may be said to be in it ; and it has acquired of late years new lines of neat or elegant houses, and in 1862 a large and tasteful pul)lic hall. It is a yilace of compara- tively high antiquity, — situated far more advantage ously for trade than the original Glasgow; and, having always maintained some local importance, insomuch as to be reckoned in the 16th century one of the largest villages in the kingdom, it might al- most have been expected, rather than the place of St. Mungo, to become the nucleus of the great modem commercial city. — tiie more so as that city, without having extended many hundred yards east- ward or northward from its original site, has come travelling down, in a broad mass, miles of distance, toward Govan, till it promises soon to reach and en- compass it. The chief tilings of interest in the town of Govan, have already been mentioned in our account of the parish ; and we have only farther to say that the town has a savings' bank, a ladies' clothing society, and a brancli-offiec of the city of Glasgowbank, and that omnibuses run several times a-day from it to Glasgow and Renfrew. Population in 1841, 2,555 ; in 1861, 7,637. Houses, 324. GOWANSBANK, a village in the parish of St. Vigeans, Forfarshire. Population, 72. Houses, 22. GOWELL, an islet in the \my of Stornoway, island of Lewis, forming a breakwater and shelter to Stomowav harbour. GOWHR (Port). See Port-Gower. GOWKHALL, a village in the parish of Carnock, Fifeshire. Population, 196. Houses, 34. GOWKSHILL. a village in the parish of Cock- pen, Edinburghshire. Population, 219. Houses, 41. GOWRIE, an ancient district of Perthshire, lying on the eastern side of the county, and extending from Stormont to the frith of Tay. See Blaikgow- KiE and Caj{se-of-Gowrie. GOYLE (Locii). See Goil (Loch). GRADEN, an extinct village in the parish of Coldstream, Berwickshire. GRADEN-BURN, a rivulet of 3 miles length of course, in the parish of Coldstream, noi-th-eastward to the Tweed, at a point 2 miles above Ladvkirk. GRADEN PLACE. See Linton, Roxburghshire. GRAEMSAY, one of the Orkney islands. It lies in Hoy sound, immediately south-east of Hoy mouth, i a mile south of the town of Stromness, and ^ a mile east of Bow kirk in Hoy island. It is about U mile in length, and 1 in breadth. It was foi-mcrly a vicarage, united to the ancient rectory of Hoy, and was seiwed by the minister of Hoy every" third Sunday; but it neither pays stipend, nor has any glebe. It is in the presbytery of Cairston, and synod of Orkney. A great part of it is arable. The \vhole is level, and seems to be of an excellent soil. The interior parts, under a thin soil, contain a bed of schist or slate, through almost its whole extent. Two lighthouses, for guiding the navigation of Hoy sound, were erected in Graemsav in 1851. The high light stands in 58" 56' 9" north latitude, and 3° 16' 33" west longtitude, is 115 feet above the sea, and can be seen at the distance of about 10 nautical miles ; the low light is elevated 55 feet above the sea, and can be seen at the distance of about 7 nau- tical miles ; and the two bear from each other south- cast i east, and north-west J west. The high light is a fixed red light, and the low a fixed bright light. The red light illuminates an arc from SE by E to SE i S towards SE; and the high tower containing it also shows toward Stromness a bright fixed light from SSE ^ E to WSW, and towards Cara an arc from NNW i W to N J ^Y southerly. The low light shows its bright fixed light from E ^ S to W i N facing northward. Tiie island is now under the pastoral care of the minister of Stromness, and has a school belonging to the Society for propagating Christian knowledge. Population in 1831,225; in 1861, 230. Houses, 40. GRAHAM'S DYKE. See Astoxinls' Wall, GRAHAMSTOWN, a neat and important suburb of the town of Falkirk. It has a post oflice of its own, and a station on the junction railway from the Scottish Central to the Edinburgh and Glasgow. See FAi.KnjK. GRAHAMSTOWN, a village in the parish of Neilston, Renfrewshire. It stands upon the Levern, 3 miles south- east of Paisley ; and is one of the chain of manufacturing villages which render the Barr- head and Neilston part of the valley of the Levern practically a large town. It was commenced about the vear 1780. Population, 706. GRAITNEV. See Gretxa. GRAMPIANS (Tue), that broad mountam fringe of elevations which nins along the eastern side of the Highlands of Scotland, overlooking the western portions of the Lowlands, and forming the natural ban'ier or boundary between the two great divisions of the kingdom. The name is so indefin- itely applied in popular usage, and has been so ob- scured by injudicious and mistaken description, as to want the definiteness of meaning requisite to the purposes of distinct topographical writing. The Grampians are usually described as "a chain" of mountains stretching from Dumbarton, or from the hills behind Gareloch opposite Greenock, or from the district of Cowal in Argyleshire, to the sea at Stonehaven, or to the interior of Aberdeenshire, or to the eastern exterior of the shores of Elgin and Banff. No definition will include all the mountains which claim the name, and at the same time exclude others to which it is unknown, but one which re- gards them simply as the mountain-front, some files deep, which the Highlands, from their southern con- tinental extremity to the point where their flank is turned by a champaign country east of the Tay, pre- sent to the Lowlands of Scotland. But thus defined, or in fact defined in any fashion Avhich shall not limit them to at most two counties, they are far from being, in the usual topographical sense of the word, "a chain." From Cowal north-eastward to the ex- tremity of Dumbartonshire, they rise up in elevations so utterly independent of one another as to admit long separating bays between, and are of such vari- ous forms and heights and modes of continuation as to be at best a series of ridges and single elevations, some of the ridges contributing their length, and others contributing merely their breadth, to the con- tinuation. East and north of Loch-Lomond in Stir- lingshire, their features are so distinctive and pecu- liar, and their amassment or congeries so overlooked by the monarch-summit of Benlomond, as to have become more extensively and more appropriately known as the Lomond hills, than as part of the Grampians. Along Breadalbane and the whole Highlands of Perthshire, they consist chiefly of la teral ridges running from west to east, or from north west to south-east, entirely separated by long tra versing valleys, and occasionally standing far apart on opposite sides of long and not very narrow sheets of veater; and they even — as in the instances of Sehi- challion and Beniglo — include solitary but huge and conspicuous monarch-mountains, which, either by their isolatcdness of position, or their remarkable peculiarity of exterior character, possess not one feature of alliance to any of the groups or ridges except their occupying the confines of the Highland territory. In the north-west and north of Forfar- shire and the adjacent parts of Perthshire and Aber- deenshire, they at last assume the character of a GRAMPIANS. GRANGE. jhain, or broad mountain elongation, sounifoim and d stinctive in character that we nnist strongly re- gret the non-restriction of the use of the word Grampian exclusively to this district. In Kincar- dineshire, they fork out into detached courses, and almost lose what is conventionally understood to be a Highland character; and at the part where they are popularly said to stretch to the coast and tenninate at the sea, are of so comparatively soft an outline and of so inconsiderable an elevation, that a stranger who had heard of the moimtain- grandeur of the Grampians, but did not know their locality, might here pass over them without once suspecting that he was within an hundred miles of their vicinity. Northward, or rather westward and north-westward, of the low Kincardineshire ranges which loose popular statement very frequently re- presents as the terminating part of " the chain," they consist partly of some anomalous eminences, but mainly of two ridges, one of which hems in the dis- trict of Mar on the south-west, and the other sepa- rates Aberdeenshire from Banffshire. A mountain-district so extensive and chequered, and so varied in feature, cannot be described, with even proximate accuracy, except in a detailed view of its parts. Yet, if merely the main part, or what occupies the space from Loch-Lomond to the north of Forfarshire, be regarded, the following description will, as a general one, be found correct. " The front of the Grampians toward the Lowlands has, in many places, a gradual and pleasant slope into a champaign country, of great extent and fertility; and, notwith- standing the forbidding aspect, at first sight, of the mountains themselves, with their covering of heath and nigged rocks, they are intersected in a thousand directions by winding valleys, watered by rivers and brooks of the most limpid water, clad with the rich- est pastures, sheltered by thriving woods that fringe the lakes, and run on each side of the streams, and are accessible in most places by excellent roads. The valleys, which exhibit such a variety of natural beauty, also form a contrast with the ruggedness of the surrounding mountains, and present to the eye the most romantic scenery. The rivers in the deep defiles struggle to find a passage ; and often the opposite bills approach so near, that the waters rush with incredible force and deafening noise, in proportion to the height of the fall and the width of the opening. These are commonly called Passes, owing to the difficulty of their passage, before bridges were erected ; and we may mention as ex- amples, the Pass of Leney, of Aberfoil, of Kil- liecrankie and of the Spittal of Glenshee. Beyond these, plains of various extent appear, filled with villages and cultivated fields. Li the interstices are numerous expanses of water, connected with rivulets stored with a variety of fish, and covered with wood down to the water-edge. The crag- gy tops are covered with flocks of sheep ; and numerous herds of black cattle are seen browsing on the pastures in the valleys. On the banks of the lakes or rivers is generally the seat of some noble- man or gentleman. The north side of the Grampians is more rugged in its appearance, and the huge masses are seen piled on one another in the most awful magnificence. The height of the Grampian moun- tains varies from 1,400 feet to 3,500 feet above the level of the sea ; and several of them are elevated still higher." The range whose highest summit-line fonns the western and northern boundary of Forfarshire, wliile quite continuous and of uniform appearance, and specially entitled to be known by a distinctive and comprehensive name, is probably, in despite of its l.)Cal appellation of " the Binchinnin mountains," more frequently grouped, in popular speech, undei the word Grampians than any other part of the bor- der Highland territory. None of the summits here are so abrapt and majestic as those of Perthshire and the Lomonds, nor are they covered with such herb- age as those which form the screens of Glenlyon, and some others of the more soixtberly Grampian valleys. The mountains are, in general, rounded and tame, and covered for the most part with moorish soil and stunted heath. On the south east side, they exhibit ridge behind ridge, rising like the benches of an amphitheatre slowly to the back- ground summit range, but laterally cloven down at intei-vals by glens and ravines emptying out rills or torrents toward the plain; and on the north-west side, they descend with a considerably greater rapi- dity, and occupy a smaller area with their flanks. — The etymology of the word " Grampians " is so ob- scure, and — worthless though the topic be — has oc ■ casioned so many disputes and so much theorizing, that we may be excused for not rashing among the melee of antiquarians in a vain efibrt to ascertain it. Nor would it be much wiser to make any attempt at fixing the locality of " the battle of the Grampians," fought between Galgacus and Agricola. GEAMEY, a small island, north of Lismore, in Loch-Linnhe, Argylesbire. GEANDHOLM. See Aberdeen. GEANDTULLY, a compact district m the par- ishes of Dull and Little Dunkeld, Perthshire, mea- suring 6^ miles in extreme length, 5 miles in extreme breadth, and 32| miles in superficial area. Though not a parish, it was erected, in 1820, by the presby- tery of Dunkeld, into a mission, under the committee for managing the Eoyal bountJ^ The church is supposed to be several centuries old ; and was for- merly a chapel subordinate to the church of Dull. It contains about 450 sittings. The GrandtuUy estate belongs to Sir W. D. Stewail, Bart., of Murthly. GrandtuUy castle, the mansion on that estate, stands contiguous to the public road, 3 miles east-north-east of Aberfeldy. It is an old structure, kept in a habi- table condition, and rendered interesting for being the author of Waverley's type of Tullyveolan, the picturesque abode of the old I3aron of Bradwardine. See Dull. GEANGE, any district or locality which, in the olden times, was extra-parochial, and in the posses- sion of monks. The name had special reference to a peculiar local arrangement under the Eomish ecclesiastical government ; but is still retained in many localities in Scotland, where all popular mem- ory of its original signification has long been lost. See, among other of our articles for it, Burntislakd, CULEOSS, EdIKBUEGH, FlFESHlEE, KiNGHOEN, SxEVEN- STON, East Geange, and the articles which imme- diately follow. GEANGE, a village in the parish of St. Andrews, Fifeshire. Popidation, 84. Houses, 20. GEANGE, a village in the parish of Errol, Perth- shire. Population, 68. Houses, 15. GEANGE, a parish in the Strathisla district of Banffshire. Its post-town is Keith, about 3 miles south-west of the parish church. It is bounded on the south by Aberdeenshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Keith, Deskford, Fordyce, Ordiquhill, Marnoch, and Eothiemay. Its length southward is 6 miles ; and its greatest breadth is 5 miles. The river Isla runs across the southern district, and re- ceives the chief drainage of the parish through two indigenous bums, flowing southward to it from the northern border. The tract on the south side of the Isla is chiefly part of the Balloch ridge of hills. The district on the north of the Isla, after an intci-va] of low ground, rises in three low, parallel, continu- GRANGE BURN. GRANGEMOUTH. DU8 ridges, terminating in the beights of Knock -hill, Lurg-hill, (ind Altmore-hill. These heights are of considerable elevation, one of them rising to at least 1,500 feet above sea-level. The low grounds and parts of the hills are finely cultivated and enclosed. On the banks of the Isla,"the ground, having a fine southern cxjjosure, is dry and early; but the north- ern district is naturally more cold, wet, and unpro- ductive, the soil being a poor clay on a spongy, mossy bottom. The whole parish was formerly covered with wood. There are inexhaustible quar- ries of the best limestone, which is burnt with the peats dug from the mosses. The ruins of ' the Grange,' once the residence of the abbots of Kinloss, and a place of great splendour, whence the parish derived its name, were till lately to be seen on the small mount on which the parish church now stands. This castle was surrounded by a dry ditch, and over- looked extensive haughs then covered with wood, the small river Isla meandering through them for several miles of a district then celebrated for its beauty. Several trenches or encampments, upon the haughs of Isla, with the defensive side thrown up towards the coast, are supposed to have been made by the Scots. " Two of the fields of battle," says the writer of the Old Statistical Account of the par- ish, "are clearly to be seen, being covered with cairns of stones, under which they used to bury the slain. One of these fields is on the north side of the Gallow-hill, not far from the encampments above mentioned; and the other is on the south side of Knock-hill, to which there leads a road, from the encampments, over the hill of Silliearn, called to this day, ' the Bowmen's road.' Auchinhove, which lies near the banks of Isla, was another field of battle ; and in a line with it, towards Cullen, upon the head of the burn of Altniore, some pieces of amiour were said to have been dug up several years ago, but were not presen'ed ; and in the same line, towards the coast, upon the top of the hill of Altmore, there is a cairn, called the King's cairn, where probably the Danish king or general was slain in the pursuit." The parish contains Edingight-house, the residence of Sir. J. M. Innes, Bart. ; and is traversed by the roads from Keith to Banff and Turriff. Population in 1831, 1,492; in 1861, 1,909. Houses, 359. As- sessed property in 1843, £5,299 8s. 6d. This parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie, and synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Fife. Stipend, £164 12s. 2d.; glebe, £7. Unappropriated teinds, £332 19s. 2d. Schoolmaster's salary is now £60; fees, £20, besides interest of a legacy of £100 lis., and a share of the Dick bequest. The parish church was built in 1795, and contains 616 sittings. There is a Free church; and the sum raised in con- nexion with it in 1865 was £88 9s. 1 1 d. There is also an United Presbyterian church, said to be the oldest in the north of Scotland. There are an Assembly's school and two other schools. Grange once formed part of the parish of Keith, and was made a separate parochial erection in 1618. GRANGE BEIL. See Beil Grange. GRANGE BURN— sometimes called West Quar- ter-bum—a rivulet in Stirlingshire. It rises in the parisli of Falkirk near Barleyside, and having flowed a very brief distance eastward, pursues a course of 3i miles north-eastward to Laurieston, and thence of 2J miles northward to the Carron at Grange- mouth, forming, over the whole distance, except 4 or 5 furlongs above its embouchure, the boundary- line between Falkirk and Polmont. GRANGE-BURN, a brook, rising at the northern limit of the parish of Kirkcudbright, and traversing that parish southward so as to divide it into two not very unequal parts. It is first called Hart burn. next Buckland burn, and only in the lower part o! its course Grange-burn. It falls into the estuary oi the Dee below St. Mary's Isle. GRANGE-EAST. See East-Graxge. GRANGE-FELL, a hill of about 900 feet of alti- tude above sea-level, in the parish of Tundergarth, Dumfries-shire. GRANGE-HALL. See Kinloss. GRANGEMOUTH, a post-town and sea-port in the parish of Falkirk, Stirlingshire. It takes its name from the mouth of the Grange bum, and stands at the confluence of that rivulet witli the Carron, IJ mile above the influx of the united streams into the Forth, and 3 miles from the town of Falkirk. It surrounds the entrance of the Forth and Clvde canal, has a branch railway connecting with the Edinburgh and Glasgow line at Polmont, and enjoys great facility of road conveyance. Though a small place, it is built on a regular plan, and contains some neat good houses. In its vici- nity, a little to the south-west, stands Kerse-house, a seat of the Earl of Zetland. The Carron foundry attracted, after 1760, the maritime trade formerly enjoj'ed by Airth, long the chief sea-port of Stirling- shire; and the subsequent formation of the Forth and Clyde canal, occasioned, in 1777, the erection of Grangemouth by Sir Lawrence Dundas. The incipient port speedily rose into notice, and acquired an attractive influence; and, from nearly the date of its erection, it has been the emporium of the com- merce of Stirlingshire. It was early provided with a drj' dock, commodious quays, and lofty extensive storehouses; and since 1841, its harbour accommo- dation has been greatly enlarged and improved. There is now a wet dock of 4 acres in area ; there are two basins for timber, 17 acres in area ; the en- trance to the dock is by a lock 250 feet long and 55 feet wide, capable of admitting large steamers; the channel of the Carron, down to low-water mark on the Forth, is confined to a width of 120 yards by well-built embankments faced with stone ; the depth of that channel is 21 feet at high water of spring tides, and 17 feet at high water of neap tides; and a lighthouse marks the eastern approach to the harbour. But the aggregate appearance of these works, together with the canal, and with the low flat character of the surrounding country, gives Grangemouth the aspect of a Dutch port. The Carron company have here a spacious wharf, and conduct a large trade. The Stirling merchants un- load their cargoes here, floating their timber from it up the Forth, and transporting their iron by land. All the great trafflc along the canal from the Forth to Port-Dundas and the Cl3'de, makes lodgements on Grangemouth in passing, or adds, in various ways, to its interest. Timber, hemp, flax, tallow, deals, and iron from the Baltic, and grain from foreign countries, and from the east coast of Scotland and England, are landed on its quaj's. Previous to 1810, Grangemouth was treated as only a creek of the port of Borrowstownness ; but since that time it has had a custom-house of its own. In 1860 there belonged to it 39 sailing vessels, of aggregately 5,564 tons, and 10 steam-vessels, of ag- gregately 1.933 tons. During the year 1860, its coasting trade comprised a tonnage of 44,271 in- wards and 37,352 outwards; and its foreign and colo- nial trade comprised a tonnage of 24,681 inwards in British vessels, 54,232 inwards in foreign vessels, 31,289 outwards in British vessels, and 55,493 out- wards in foreign vessels. In 1860, there were shipped coastwise 1,799 tons of coals,- — exported abroad, 62,409 tons. The amount of customs, in 1864, was £12,603. Grangemouth is one of the approved ports for the importation of wine. Ropemaking and ship- GRANGE-OF-LINDORES. 9 GRANT'S HOUSE. building employ a number of hands. The construct- ing of steam - vessels also is carried on. The maiden-effort of the place in this department was completed in the autumn of 1839 by the launch of the steam-ship Hecla, 80 feet long, 36 feet across the midships, designed for towing trading vessels over the Memel bar in Prussia. The town has an office of the Commercial bank, a library, and Estab- lished, Free, and United Presbyterian churches. — the second, a neat edifice in the Norman style, built in 1838. Population, 1,759. GRANGE-OF-LINDOPvES, a village in the east side of the parish of Abdie, Fifeshire. Population, 166. Houses, 34. GRANGEPANS, a village on the coast of the parish of Carriden, J a mile east of Borrowstown- ness, Linlithgowshire. Here were formerly a che- mical work and extensive salt pans. Population in 18G1, 747. GRANNOCH (Loch), a romantic sequestered lake, 3 miles long and ^ a mile broad, in the north- ern extremity of the parish of Girthon, Kirkcud- brightshire. On an island in its mouth, eagles, not many years ago, used to build their nests and rear their young. See Girthox. GRANT-CASTLE. See Cromd.*.le and Gran- TOWX. GRANTON, a post-town and sea-port, in the par- ish of Cramond, 2^ miles north-west of Edinburgh. It was founded only in 1835, and is but a small seat of population; yet it possesses more stir and im- portance than the great majority of sea-ports ten or twenty times its size. It is the chief ferry from Edinburgh to Fife, lies on the line of the Edin- burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway, has the best harbour in the frith of Forth, and is the port of Edinburgh for the steamers to Stirling, Aberdeen, and London. It was founded by the Duke of Buc- cleuch, in his capacity of proprietor of the neigh- bouring estate of Caroline park. Its chief feature is a magnificent pier 1,700 feet in length, and from 80 to 160 feet in breadth. This was commenced in 1835, partially opened in 1838, and completed in 1845, with some trivial exceptions, at the cost of £80,000. Four pairs of jetties, each extending 90 feet, occur at regular intervals; two slips, each 325 feet long, facilitate the shipping and landing of cat- tle and heavy goods at all states of the tide ; a strong high wall, cleft with brief thoroughfares, runs along the middle of the whole esplanade ; the railway advances upon the east side to about the middle, and is there provided with offices for its traffic, and with powerful fixed engines and hydrau- lic cranes for lifting down laden trucks to the deck of the steamer lying at the slip; a lighthouse sur- mounts the extreme point of the pier, exhibiting a brilliant distinctive light; and a grand breakwater commences at the shore about three-fourths of a mile west of the pier, and curves in a demisemi- circle to terminate on a line with the pier-head, thus converting all the intermediate space into a shel- tered basin. The depth of water at the pier-head, m spring tides, is nearly 30 feet ; and it shallows slowly enough along the sides to afford to large steamers a comparatively extensive accommodation. A spacious area landward from the foot of the pier is planned to be permanently open as a sort of Place. The east side of this is flanked by a neat commodious hotel, in a style of building and on a scale of grandeur which would be perfectly suitable for the heart of the metropolis ; and the west side is flanked by edifices of corresponding character, which are subdivided into private residences. The appearance of this Place and of the pier, with their elegant, massive, white-sandstone masonry, is in fine keeping with the joyousness of the natural scenery, and contrasts most advantageously to the dinginess and dirt of most of the other Forth ports. A short line of good houses confronts the frith eastward from the hotel, and two small groups of poor cottages are situated westward of the Place ; but all other parts of the town, excepting yards and some appliances of the harbour, are yet to be. Comparatively good bathing ground lies between the pier and the break- water, and attracts some summer visitors. The village of ^yardie is sufficiently near on the east to be almost a part of Granton. Omnibuses run be- tween the pier and Edinburgh in connexion with the steamers; and all the trains of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railways afford ready communi- cation. Granton is a station of the county police. The English, under the Earl of Hertford, landed on Granton shore in 1544. Population, 518. GRANTOWN. a post-town in the parish of Crom- dale, Inverness-shire. It stands in the valley of the Spey, at the intersection of the road from Focha- bers to Kingussie with the road from Fort-George to Braemar, 13J miles north-east of Aviemore, 22 south of Forres, 30J south-east of Fort-George, and 34 south-south-west of Elgin. Its site is about ^ a mile from the left side of the Spey, and, previous to 1774, was part of a barren untenanted heath. The town was founded in 1776, by Sir James Grant of Grant, Bart., in connexion with extensive plans for improving all the surrounding tract of country'. No place of its size in the north of Scotland can compare with it either in beauty of situation or in neatness of stnicture. Its alignment is regular, and comprises near the centre an oblong of 700 feet by 180. Its houses, though small, are well suited to the circumstances of the inhabitants, and are all built of fine-grained whitish granite, and are of pretty uniform dimensions. On the south side of the ob- long stands the Speyside oi-phan hospital, a neat structure built in 1824, for 30 poor orphans, on the plan of the Edinburgh orphans' hospital. A re- markably neat commodious school-house was built, on the north side of the town, about 17 years ago, by the Earl of Seafield. The parish church of Cromdale also stands in that vicinit}' ; and there are connected with the town a Ro)'al bounty church, a Free church, and a Baptist meeting-house. The town has offices of the National Bank, the Cale- donian Bank, the Royal Bank, and seven insur- ance agencies. Sheriff's small debt courts are held on the first Monday of January, May, and Septem- ber, and on the first Wednesday after the second Monday of February, June, and October. Fairs are held on the Thursday before the third Wednesday of April, on the Monday after the third Wednesday of April, on the Monday after the second Wednes- day of May, on the Wednesday before the 25th of May, or 26th, if a W^ednesday, on the Monday after the second Wednesday of June, on the Monday after the third Thursday of July, on the 1st day of Au- gust, on the Monday in August, in September, and in October after Beauly, on the Monday after the second Wednesday of November, and on the Wed- nesday before the 22d of November, or 23d if a Wednesday. Corn markets are held fortnightly during the season, beginning each year on the first Wednesday of November. Public conveyances run to Can" Bridge, Fochabers, and Elgin. About 1^ mile to the east of the town, embosomed in bi'oad forests, yet commanding a superb view, stands Cas- tle-Grant, the magnificent ancient residence of the chief of the clan Grant, now one of the seats of the Earl of Seafield. Population of the town, 1,334. GRANT'S HOUSE, a post-office station, also a station on the North British railway, on the north- GRASHOLM. 10 GREENLAW. em bonier of the parish of Coldinrjham, 4| miles south-cast of Cockhunispatli, Berwickshire. GRAPEL. See Garpel. GRASHOLM, an islet in Orkney, lying conti- guous to the west side of Shapinshay. GKASSIIOUSES. a village in the parisli of Glam- mis, Forfarsliire. Population, 74. Houses, 20. GRASSYWALLS, a Rom.an camp, in the par- ish of Scone, about 3 miles north of Perth. General Roy supposes it to have been of sufficient dimen- sions to contain the whole of Agricola's army, after passing: the Tay; and has given a plan of it. The farm of Grassywalls has taken its name from its situation within the earthen intrenchments. GRAY-HOUSE. See Liff and Benvie. GREAT GLEN OF SCOTLAND. See Glen- MOKF. Xax-Ai,hin, and Caledonian Canal. GREAT NORTH OF SCOTLAND RAILWAY. See North of Scotland Railway. GREENAN CASTLE. See Maybole. GREENAN LOCH, a small lake in the parish of Rothesay, 1 J mile west of Loch Fad, in the island of Bute. GREEXBAXK, a post-office station and a man- sion, in the jwrish of North Yell, Shetland. GREEXHANK, Renfrewshire. See Eastwood. GREEXBARX, a post-office station, subordinate to WHiitburn, Linlithgowshire. GREEXBARX, a locality in the parish of New- hills, Aberdeensliire, where (airs are held on the second Tuesday of May, old style, on the second Thursday of June, old style, on the day in June oefore St. Stairs, on the last Thursday of July, old style, on the last Wednesday of September, and on the third Tuesday of October, old style. GREENCRAI'G, a hill in the parish of Creich, Fifeshire, commanding a superb view of the lower basin of the Tay, part of Strathearn, and a long stretch of the Sidlaws and the Grampians. On its summit are vestiges of an ancient fort. GREENEXD, a village in the parish of Old Monk- land, Lanarkshire. Population, 502. Houses, 79. GREENFOOT, a locality with an inn, in the parish of Born, on the road from Galston to Auch- inleck, and about J of a mile from the village of Sorn, Ayrshire. GREENGAIRS, a thriving village in the pari.sh of New Monkland, Lanarkshire. Population, 184. GREENHILL, one of the villages of the Four Towns in the parish of Lochmaben, Dumfries-shire. Population, 89. Houses, 22. See Four Towns (The). GREENHILL, the western junction of the Edin- burgh and Glasgow railway with the Scottish Cen- tral railway, in the vicinity of Castlecary, on the western verge of the parish of Falkirk, Stirling- shire. It is situated loj miles north-west of Glas- gow. It is a place of stir in connexion with the junction trains, and has a station for the Scottish Central railway, but is not itself a scat of popula- tion. GREENHILL, a mining locality in the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. GREENHILL, Roxburghshire. See Hounam. GREENHOLM, an island in Shetland, about 3 miles in circumference, lying off the east coast of Tintjwall, 5h miles north-north-east of Lerwick. GREENliOLM (Little and Muckle), two islets of the parish of Eday in Orkney. See Eday. GREEN-ISLAND. See Glass-Ellan. GREENKXOWE. See Gordon. GREENLAW, a parish, containing a post-town of its own name, in Berwickshire. It is of an ob- long form, extending from north-west to south-east ; fvnd measures, in extreme length, 8 miles,— in ex- Ircino breadth, 4 miles,— and in superficial area, 25 square miles. It is bounded by Longformacus, Pol- warth, Fogo, Eccles, Hume, Gordon, and Westni- ther. The southern division, comprising rather more than one-half of the whole area, is well en- closed and highly cultivated, and presents in general a level surface, variegated with several low detached rounded hillockj' eminences, of the class called laws, — from one of which the parish derived its name. Throughout this division the soil is a deep strong clay, and produces excellent wheat, prime grain of other species, and fine pasture. The north- ern division is, for the most part, a moorland tract; some portions of which are dry and in good cultiva- tion, while others are wet and covered with short heath, and adapted only for sheep-walks and the raising of young cattle. Across the moor, over a distance of fully two miles, stretches an irregular gravelly ridge, about 50 feet broad at the base, and between 30 and 40 feet high, called the Kaimes. The ridge bends round in the form of a semicircle, presenting its face or hollow to the hills. On the south side of it is Dogden moss, 500 acres in ex- tent, and in some places 10 feet in depth, yielding peats which, when propei'ly cut and dried, are a fuel little inferior to coals. Blackadder water comes down upon the parish from Westruther, runs along its western boundary for 2 miles ; and then, includ- ing a considerable bend in its course southwards, at the extremity of which lies the town of Green- law, it passes through to the eastern boundary over a distance of about 4 miles. In summer, and even in winter, it is, in general, but a tiny stream ; but, being fed by a number of rills and little moun- tain torrents, it sometimes swells suddenly to a great size, and overflows, to a considerable extent, the grounds adjacent to its banks. The stream is of much local value by giving water-power to a fulling-mill and two flour-mills. A rill of about 4 miles in length of course comes in upon the parish from the north, and flows southward through it to the Blackadder. Another stream, of about 8 miles in length of course, comes down from the south-west upon its most southerly angle, forms its south-east boundary-line over a distance of 2J miles, and then passes onward through the conterminous parish of Eccles to fall into the Leet. The high and preci- pitous banks of the Blackadder, before the river reaches the town, afford abundant quarries of red sandstone, and, at the point of its leaving the par- ish, exhibit a coarse white sandstone, with a super- incumbence of dark claystone porphyry. At Green- law, which is well sheltered by hills, the air is mild ; in the southern division of the parish it ia more gentle and dry than in the northern division ; and, in the entire district, it very rarely floats the miasmata of any epidemical disease, and is pecu- liarly healthy. Two miles north-west of the town, on the verge of the bold banks of the Blackadder, and its confluent stream from the north, are vesti- ges of an encampment ; and leading off directly opposite to them, an intrenchment, whence numer- ous coins of the reign of Edward III. have been dug up, runs first along the banks of the river, and then goes due south in the direction of Hume castle. About a mile north from the town, an old wall or earthen mound, fortified on one side with a ditch, but of unknown original dimensions, formerly ran across the parish, and is traditionally reported to have extended from a place called the iioon — a word which in Celtic means boundary or termina- tion — in the parish of Legerwood, all the way to Berwick; but at what time, oi by whom, or for what purpose, the wall was constructed, is a mat- ter not known. The principal mansion in the par- ish is Rochester ; the beautiful one of Marchmont. G^KEENLAW. 11 GREENOCK. with its extensive and wooded pleasure-grounds be- longing to Sir H. H. Campbell, Bart., the proprietor of two-thirds of the soil, tieing within the limits of the conterminous parish of Polwarth. The parish is traversed by the road from Edinburgh to Cold- stream, and by a Ijranch going off toward Dnnse. The valued rental of the parish is £6,836 4s. Scots. The average yearl)^ value of raw produce was esti- mated in 1834 at £13,160. The value of real pro- perty, as assessed in 1843, was £7,410 4s. 5d. Po- pulation in 1831, 1,442 ; in 1861, 1,370. Houses, 238. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunse, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Sir H. H. Campbell, Bart. Stipend, £254 15s. 5d.; glebe, £25. Unappropriated teinds, £759 18s. 9d. Schoolmas- ter's salary, £34 4s. 4id., with £25 fees, and £16 other emoluments. The parish church is ancient, but was repaired about 22 years ago, and contains 476 sittings. There is a Free church : attendance, 360 ; sum raised in 1855, £150 18s. 9d. There is also an United Presbyterian church, with an attend- ance of 280. Tliere is a non- parochial school. The interest of a legacy of 2,000 merks Scots, left in the year 1667 by Thomas Broomfield, and called the Broomfield mortification, is currently expended in alleviating the sufferings of the poor, and educating their children. The church at Greenlaw, and cha- pels respectively at Lambden, and on the old manor of Halyburton, belonged, till the Reformation, to the monks of Kelso. The ruins of the two chapels have not long disappeared. During the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, the kirk-town of Greenlaw or Old Greenlaw, was the residence of the Earls of Dunbar, the ancestors of the family of Home. The Town of Greenlaw is a burgh of barony, and was for some time the capital of Berwickshire, but now shares that honour ^vith Dunse. It stands 7§ miles south-south-west of Dunse, 10 north-west by west of Coldstream, 12 east by south of Lauder, 20 west-south-west of Berwick, and 27 south-east of Edinburgh. The original town — still commem- orated by a farm-stead on its site called Old Green- law — stood on the top of a verdant eminence, or green law, about a mile south of the present to^vn. At some distance to the east stood the ancient castle of Greenlaw, vestiges of which have long since dis- appeared. When the modem town rose from its foundations, its baronial superiors, the family of Marchmont, who had great political influence after the Revolution, speedily invested it with very con- siderable importance. In 1696 — in spite of the superior intrinsic greatness and the more advan- tageous relative position of Dunse, which, jointly with Lauder, wore at that time the county-honours — it was constituted by act of parliament the county-to^\ni of Benvickshire. Yet, apart from its public civil buildings — which belong rather to all Berwickshire than properly to itself — it is a mere village, inconsiderable in bulk, sequestered in po- sition, and innocent of the activities and the pro- ductiveness of trade or manufacture. It consists onnply of one long street, with a square market- place opening from it on the north side. Over part of the recess or further side of the square, the parish-church on the one side and the old court- house on the other, send up between them an ancient and sepulchral-looking steeple, formerly occupied as the prison; and the entire group of builcling — its seat of justice and its place of worship iamming up the gloomy narrow jail between them, and all backed by the burying-ground of the town and parish — suggested to some wag the severe couplet : — " Here st.ind the jrospel and the law, Wi' hell's hole atncen the twa ! " But both the court-house and the prison have been superseded by new edifices which, in an architectural point of view, are highly oniamental to the town, and whose position is less liable to satirical remark. In the centre of the square foiTnerly stood an ele- gant Corinthian pillar, surmounted in sculpture by the armorial bearings of the Earls of Marchmont, and ser-vang as the market-cross. The site of this defunct antiquity and some circumjacent spaces are now occupied by the new county-hall. This is a chaste yet elegant Grecian edifice, built solely at the expense of Sir W. P. H. Campbell, Bart., the successor of the powerful family of Marchmont, and presented by him to the county. In front, it has a beautiful vestibule surmounted by a dome. In the interior is a hall, 60 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 28 feet high, adorned at each end with two fluted pillars with Corinthian capitals. In the dome is a fire proof room for the conservation of documents. There are in the building, also, several other apart- ments for the accommodation of the sheriff and other county officials. The new jail, at a little distance, was built in 1824. It has 2 day-rooms for felons, 1 day-room for debtors, 18 cells, and 3 coui-ts for the use of prisoners; and is surrounded and rendered quite secure, by a high wall bristling up in a che- vaux-de-frieze. The town, besides 2 or 3 inferior inns or alehouses, has one large inn, a new, neat, and commodious edifice. It has also a branch of the City of Glasgow bank, a public subscription library, a friendly society, a branch Bible society, a regular hiring-market for servants, and two annual cattle fairs, one on the 22d day of May, and the other on the last Thursday of October. Greenlaw, as a burgh-of-barony, holds of the proprietor of Marchmont. Nearly the whole town is feued; and the feuars, about 80 in number, are a respectable class of persons. Population, in 1831, 895; in 1861, 800. GREENLAW, a locality in the parish of Glen- cross, Edinburghshire, where there is an extensive range of barracks, 2 miles from Penicuick, on the road thence to Edinburgh. The old mansion of Greenlaw was converted into a prison for French soldiers in 1804, and was for a number of years the only French prison in Scotland. In 1813, a spaci- ous depot was founded, of capacity to lodge 7,000 prisoners, with suitable barracks for the accommoda- tion of the guarding soldieiy; but the prison never came to be used, in consequence of the war ending next year; and the barracks were aftei'wards set apart for the occasional use of reserve companies of the line stationed in Scotland. GREENLAW, Renfrewshire. See Glasgow, Paisley, and Greenock Railway. GREENLOANING, a village in the parish of Dunblane, Perthshire. It has a station on the Scottish Central railway, 4i miles north-east of the town of Dunblane. Here is an United Presby- terian church. Fairs are held on the first Tuesday of February, on the second Tuesday of April, on the last Tuesday of July, on the Tuesday in September before Perth, and on the first Tuesday of October. Population, 58. GREENMILL, a village in the parish of Caer- laverock, Dumfries-shire. It stands on Lochar Water, at the eastern verge of the parish, contigu- ous to the post-office village of Bankend, 2 miles east of Glencaple, and 5J south-south-east of Dum- fries. Here is the parish church of Caerlaverock. GREENOCK, a parish, containing a large town of its own name, in the north-west of Renfrewshire. It is bounded on the north by the frith of Clyde, and on other sides by the parishes of Innerkip, Kilmal- colm, and Port-Glasgow. It stretches about 4^ GKEENOCK. 12 GREENOCK. miles along the shore, and extends considerably more up the countrj' to the south. The land is hilly, with the exception of a stripe of level ground by the water-side, varying from less than hali'-a- mile to a mile in breadth. The soil of this level portion is light, mixed with sand and gravel; but has been rendered very fertile, owing to the great encouiagement given to cultivation, from the con- stant demand for country produce by the numerous population. In the ascent the surface is diversified with patches of loam, clay, and till. Farther up, and towards the summits of the hills, the soil for the most part is thin, in some places mossy; the bare rocks here and there appearing. The land in this quarter is little adapted to any thing but pas- turage for black cattle and sheep. On the other Bide of the heights, except a few cultivated spots on the southern border of the parish, chiefly on the banks of the infant Gryfe, heath and coarse grass prevail. The greatest elevation attained by the Greenock hills is 800 feet. The views thence are varied, extensive, and grand, combining water, shippmg, the scenery on either bank of the Clyde, and the lofty Highland mountains. The declivities of the hills overlooking the town and the river are adorned with villas, and diversified with thriving plantations; so that they present a very pleasing appearance. The part of the hills directly behind the town, too, is cloven to a low level by a fine narrow vale, which takes through the road to In- nerkip; the contour of the declivities both toward that vale and toward the Clyde is rolling and diversified; and the general summit-line, in conse- quence of being at such short distance from the shore, looks, from most points of view, to be much higher, perhaps twice higher, than it really is. Hence does the landscape of the parish, particularly around the town, appear to be decidedly pictur- esque. The rocks are chieflj' the old red sandstone, with its conglomerate, near the shore, and various kinds of trap, principally basalt and greenstone, throughout the hills. Both the sandstone and the trap are quarried. The dictribulion of the parochial area was computed in 1618 to comprise 2,315 Scotch acres ot" arable land, 930 of sound pasture, 2,780 of moor, 40 of wood, and 300 in sites of houses and in roads; and that distribution has, since then, been altered chiefly by the reclaiming of a very small amount of the waste land, and by a consider- able extension of the aggregate for houses and for villa-ground. The Clyde opposite the parish of Greenock varies in width from 2 miles to 4 miles. " In the middle of the frith there is a sandbank which, commencing almost immediately above Dumbarton Castle, or about nine miles above Greenock, and running longitudinally, terminates at a point nearl\' opposite to the western extremity of the town, well known to merchants and others by the name of the ' tail of the bank.' During spring-tides, part of the bank opposite to the harbour is visible at low water; and the depth of the channel on each side of this bank is such as to admit vessels of the largest class. Be- tween Port-Glasgow and Garvald-point, a remarkable promontoiy, about 1 J mile to the eastward of Green- ock, the high part of the bank is separated from the upper portion, (part of which opposite to Port-Glas- gow, is also dry at low water.) by a naiTow channel significantly called the ' Through -let,' through which the tide passing from the lower part of the frith in a north-easterly direction, and obstructed in its progTcss by Ardmore, a promontory on the Dum- bartonshire side of the river, rushes with such im- petuosity as to produce high-water at Port-Glasgow a few minutes earlier than at Greenock. The sub- marine island which is thus fonned, and which is commonly called the Greenock bank, to distinguish it from the high part of the bank opposite to Port- Glasgow, was granted by His Majesty's Government to the Corporation of the town of Gieenock, during the magistracy of the late Mr. Quintin Leitch. The charter by the Barons of Exchequer is dated 30th September 1816, and contains the following words expressive of the object which the corporation had in view in applying for the grant ; — ' Pro proposito sedi- ficandi murum, vel acquirendi ad ripam antedictam ex Australi latere ejusdem quantum ad Septentrionem eadem possit acquii-i.' The southern channel is the only one for vessels passing to and from the different ports on the river, the greatest depth of water in the ' Through-let' being quite insufficient in its present state to admit of vessels of any considerable burden passing that way. The width of the channel, op- posite to the harbour of Greenock, does not much exceed 300 yards. Ascending, it rapidl}' diminishes in width, — a circumstance which, but for the applica- tion of steam to the towing of ships, must have pre- sented for ever an insuperable obstacle to the pro- gress of the trade of Glasgow." The earliest person mentioned in record in con- nexion with the district now forming the parish of Greenock is " Hugh de Grenok," who is recorded in Ragman Roll as one of the many Scottish barons who, in 1296, came under subjection to Edward I. of England. Crawfurd, the historian of Renfrew- shire, does not appear to have been aware of the existence of this person, and in his account of the barony of Greenock goes no farther back than the reign of Robert III., (1390-1406) during which he mentions it was divided between the two daughters and heiresses of Malcolm Galbraith, the proprietor, one of whom married Shaw of Sauchie, and the other married Crawfurd of Kilbirnie. The two divisions were from that time held as separate baronies— Wester Greenock by the Shaws, and Easter Greenock by the Crawfurds — till 1669, when John Shaw purchased the eastern poition, and thus became the proprietor of both. John Shaw Stewart — afterwards of Blackball, Baronet — succeeded to the conjoined baronies, on the death of his grand- uncle, Sir John Shaw, in 1752; and in this family the property has since continued. The castle of Easter Greenock, a square tower, stood at Bridge- end, about a mile east of the town of Greenock. It was ruinous when Crawfurd wrote (1710), and pro- bably was not inhabited after the sale to the Shaws in 1669. An engraving of the ruin, exhibiting only a portion of the north wall with spaces for two small windows, at difierent heights, was published in the Scots Magazine for October 1810. The castle of Wester Greenock occupied the site of an edifice which stands upon an eminence above the railway station. This edifice formed the residence of the Shaws, the feudal superiors of the district, and thence received the name of " the Mansion-house," — a name it still retains, although it has not been occupied by the proprietors since 1754, two years after the accession of Mr. Shaw Stewart to the estate. The older portion of this house appears to have been built in the 17th century. Over a back en- trance is the date 1674 ; a well close by bears the date 1629; and over one of the entrances to the garden is affixed the date 1635. The front and the greater part of the building is of more modern con- struction: it is still inhabited. Before the houses of the town encroached upon it, this mansion, with its terraces and pleasure-grounds overlooking the river, must have had a very striking aspect. It was thus noticed by Alexander Drummond, who speaking of Vabro in Italy, in the travels he ner GREENOCK. 13 GREENOCK. formed in 1744: — "Here the Count de Merci possesses a beautiful house, that stands upon the top of the hill, with fine terraced gai'dens sloping down to the river side, which yield a delicious pros- pect to the eye ; yet beautiful as this situation is, the house of Greeneck would have been infinitely moro noble, had it been, according to the original plan, above the terrace -with the street opening down to the harbour ; indeed, in that case, it would have been the most lordly site in Europe." During the papacy, the baronies of Greenock were comnrehended in the parish of Innei-kip. Being at a grejit distance from the parish-church, the inhabi- tants had the benefit of three chapels within their own hounds. One of them, and probably the prin- cipal, was dedicated to St. Laurence, from whom the adjacent expanse derived its name of the Bay of St. Laurence. It stood on the site of the house at the west corner of Virginia-street, belonging to the heirs of Mr. Eoger Stewart. In digging the founda- tions of that house, a number of human bones were found, which proves that a burying-ground must have been attached to the chapel. The usually ac- curate Chalmers states that this place of worship "disappeared in the wreck of the Reformation;" but, in point of fact, it remained in some preserva- tion so recently as the year 1760. On the lands still called Chapelton there stood another chapel, to which also there must have been a cemetery at- tached ; for when these grounds were formed into a kitchen-garden, many gravestones were found under the surface. A little below Kilblain, there was placed a third religious house, the stones of which the tenant of the ground was permitted to remove for the pui-pose of enclosing his garden. From the name it is apparent that this was a cell or chapel dedicated to St. Blane. After the Eeformation, when the chapels were dissolved, the inhabitants of Greenock had to walk to the parish-church of Inner- kip, which was 6 miles distant, to join in the celebra- tion of public worship. To remedy this inconveni- ence, John Shaw obtained a grant from the King, in 1589, authorizing him to build a church for the accommodation of the people on his lands of Green- ock, Finnai-f, and Spangock, who, it was represented, were " all fishers, and of a reasonable number." Power was also given to build a manse and form a churchyard. This grant was ratified by parliament in 1592. The arrangement resembled the erection of a chapel-of-ease in our own times. Shaw having, in 1591, built a church and a manse, and assigned a churchyard, an act of parliament was passed, m 1594, whereby his lands above-mentioned, with their tithes and ecclesiastical duties, were disjoined from the parsonage and vicarage of Innerkip, and erected into a distinct parsonage and vicarage, which were assigned to the newly erected parish-church of Greenock ; and this was ordained to take effect for the year 1593, and in all time thereafter. The par- ish of Greenock continued, as thus established, till 1636, when there was obtained from the lords com- missioners for the plantation of churches a decree, whereby the baronies of Easter and Wester Green- ock, and various other lands which had belonged to the parish of Innerkip, with a small portion of the parish of Houstoun, were erected into a parish to be called Greenock, and the church formerly erected at Greenock was ordained to be the parochial church, of which Shaw was the patron. The limits which were then assigned to the parish of Greenock have continued to the present time. This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr. But though still treated as one parish for some civil and political purposes, it now constitutes, both ecclesiastically and quoad civilia, three separate painshes, the West, the Mid- dle, and the East. — The West parish, also called the Old, is the continuation of the original parish, and compiises the western part of the town, together with the Avestern half of the landward district. Patron, Sir M. R. S. Stewart, Bart. Stipend, as re- ported by the Commissioners in 1838, £286 14s. 11 Jd. from teinds, £25 from annuity -bond of the town of Greenock, and £406 12s. 4d. from feu-duties from glebe-land, — in all, £718 7s. 3^d. The minister has also a manse and glebe. The original church, built in 1591, a low cruciform structure with a small belfry, in the middle of an extensive burying-ground close by the shore, continued to be used till 1837, when it was formally condemned by the presbyteiy ; and an elegant new church, containing 1,400 sit- tings, was afterwards erected on a fine open site in the upper outskirts of the west end of the town, but suffered serious obstruction to its completion, and did not receive its finishing decoration, in the form of a handsome spire, till so late as 1854.— The Mid- dle parish, called also the New parish, was disjoined from the Old in 1754. It is wholly a burghal parish, comprising only the middle part of the town. Patron, the town-council, the session, and feuars. Stipend. £275, with £20 for communion elements. The minister has a manse and garden, but no glebe. The church stands in Cathcart-square, in the very centre of the town, confi'onting a street which leads down to the quays. It was huilt in 1757, at the cost of £2,389, and contains 1,497 sittings; and a steeple which adorns it, and is 146 feet high, was built at a separate cost, by subscription, in 1787. — The East parish was disjoined from the Old parisli in 1809. It comprises the eastern part of the town and the eastern half of the landward district. Patron, the town council and a committee of proprietors. Stipend, £250, with £20 for sacramental expenses. The minister has a manse, but no glebe. The present church is a handsome structure, with 1,050 sittings, built in 1853. — There were in G eenock, for a short period previous to the disruption, no fewer than five quoad sacra parishes, additional to the three quoad civilia parishes, and all of ecclesias- tical creation ; but there are now, in connexion with the Establishment, in addition to the three quoad civilia parish churches, only two places of worship, the Gaelic chapel, and the Cartsdyke missionary chapel; and the former of these was constituted by the Court of Teinds, in the summer of 1855, a quoad sacra parish church. The Census of 1851 returns for four of the five Establishment places of worship an aggregate of 5,000 sittmgs, and an attendance of 2,283. The Free churches in Greenock, together with the total amount of money raised by each in 1864-5, are as follows:— the West, £1,709 9s. Id.; the Middle, £1,570 10s. 3d.; the Gaelic, £688 16s. 6d.; Well- park, £837 8s. 5d.; St. Andrew'.s, £905 8s. lOd.; and St. Thomas's, £787 6s. 8d. The Census of 1851 returns the number of Free churches as 7, and gives the aggregate sittings in 6 of them as 5,286, and the aggregate attendance at all the 7 as 4,749. All the Free church edifices are more or less_ creditable structures; andoneof them, built in 1855, in the east- ern part of the town, is a handsome pile, surmounted by a Gothic spire which figures conspicuously in the burghal landscape, as seen from the Clyde. — The Uniled Presbyterian churches in the town are four. one in Kicholson-street, built in 1791, at the cost of £1,400, and containing 1,106 sittings; one in Union-street, built in 1834, at the cost of £2,400, and containing 950 sittings; one in Nelson street, a neat structure, built in 1842, to afford increased ac- commodation to a congregation whose previous place GREENOCK. 14 GREENOCK of worship in Innerkip-street contained 730 sittings; and one in Sir Michael-street, a large, e cgant, sym- metrical structure, built in 1854, on the site of a predecessor, which had been erected in 1807, and contained 1 .498 sittings. The Census of 1851 gives 4 United Presbyterian churches, with aggregately 4,555 sittings, Knd an attendance of 2,888.— The other places of worship in Greenock are a Reformed Presbyterian church, in West Stewart-street, built in 1833 with 550 sittings, and an attendance of 4o0; a Congregational chapel in George-square, a neat edifice with Gothic front, built in 1840, and contain- ing 850 sittincrs, with an attendance of 550; an Evangelical Union chapel, with 600 sittings, and an attendance of 450 ; three Baptist chapels, in West- bum-street, in Sir Michael-sti-eet, and in Hamilton- street, two of them rctunied in the Census as con- taining 520 sittings, with an attendance of 84; an Episcopalian chapel in Union-street, built in 1824, with 600 sittings and an attendance of 350; a Me- thodist chapel, built in 1814, containing 400 sittings, with an attendance of 115; a Roman Catholic chapel, built in 1815, at the cost of £3,000, containing l.COO sittings; another Roman Catholic chapel, built in 1862, with nave and aisles 120 feet long; a Catholic apostolic church, in little use; a handsome Seamen's chapel, built in 1852 ; and a place of worship, con- fronting the west end of Hamilton-street, built in 1823 as a chapel of ease, commonly known as the North church, containing 1,165 sittings, and notable for having long stood vacant and useless. The Census of 1851, also gives a Monnonite place of worship, with 120 sittings and an attendance of 70, and the place of worship of an isolated congregation, ^vitll 360 sittings, and an attendance of 384. The Greenock academy was established some time before the middle of last century. The present edi- fice is an elegant one, in the old monastic style, opened in September, 1855, with accommodation for a course of education in four departments, under a rector and several masters. The Highlanders' acade- my, a handsome building erected in 1836, in the south-west part of the town, has apartments and teachers for two schools, a juvenile and an infantile, together with a spacious play-ground and all suitable apparatus. There are also a ragged school, a sea- men's children's school, a charity school, and a school of industry. There are likewise schools in connexion with a number of the churches or congregations. Established, Free, United Presbyterian, Independent, and Roman Catholic. And the private schools, be- sides being numerous, have a wide range and present much variety. Yet the aggregate state of education in the town is understood to be comparatively low. The returns to the parliamentaiy commission in 1834 gave 36 schools. 52 teachers, and 2,937 scholars; and the Rev. Dr. Macfarlane, six years later, gave the number of scholars as 2,450, or somewhat less than one in twelve of the whole population. GREENOCK, a burgh of barony, a parliamentary burgh, a seat of manufacture, an extensive sea-port, and the sixth town of Scotland in point of population, stands about the middle of the sea-board of the par- ish of Greenock, in 55° 57' 2" north latitude, 4° 45' 30" west longitude, 3 miles Avest-uorth-west of Port- Glasgow, 7 by water east of Dunoon, 8 by water west of Dumbarton, 15| by railway west-north-west of Paisley, and 21 by water, but 22^ by railway, west by north of Glasgow. According to the popular be- lief, Greenock received its name from a (freen oalc, which, it is said, once stood upon the shore ; but this seems a mere play upon words, and there is no reason to suppose that any such oak ever existed. The name may be derived from the British Graen-ag signifying a gravelly or sandy place; or from the Gaelic, Grian-aig, signifying a sunny bay. Both these terms are applicable to the site of Greenock, which has a sandy and gravelly soil and is finely ex- posed to the sun on the margin of a beautiful bay; and the latter term receives some countenance from the fact that the name of the place is still pronounced Grian-aighy the Highland portion of the population. The bay in front of the town is comparatively narrow seaward and comparatively long shorewise, leaving the view of the frith upward and downward, as well as in front, fully open to every part of the quays and the beach. The giound inward, for about a quarter of a mile, is low and flat, but slightly ele- vated above high-water level, and is occupied, to the extent of about two miles in length, by either the quays and docks, the most business streets of the town, or long stretches of straggling outskirts and suburban villas. The ground behind this low belt immediately begins to rise, in some parts slowl}^, in others somewhat steeply; and thence it continues to ascend, with a very pleasing diversity of terrace, undulation, and acclivity, till it becomes lost in the countiy and climbs aloft into the hills ; and all this variety of rising-gi'ound, to the extent of about half- a-mile in breadth and nearly a mile in length, is oc- cupied, in a pleasingly chequered manner, with streets, edificed areas, villas, plots, places of manu- facture, garden-spaces, and rural openings. The view, from many parts of this upper ground, and even from the quays and the beach, is perhaps the finest commanded by any sea-port in the British dominions. See Clyde (The). Even the extent of the view is considerable, embracing a semi-panora- ma of 12 miles along the chord, all perfectly defined, with a clear middle ground of 5 or 6 miles in depth; but the variety and the romance of it are extraordi- naiy, combining sea and mountain, woods and alps, civilization and savageness, in grand masses and with most picturesque magnificence. The relative situation of Greenock, too, is remarkable, — on one of the throngest thoroughfares of the Lowlands, and yet at the very vestibule of the Highlands. " But a few miles off, across the frith of Clyde," remark the Messrs. Cliambers, "the untameable Highland territoiy stretches away into alpine solitudes of the wildest character; so that it is possible to sit in a Greenock drawing-room amidst a scene of refinement not surpassed, and of industry unexampled, in Scot- land, with the long cultivated Lowlands at your back, and let the imagination follow the eye into a blue distance where things still exhibit nearly the same moral aspect as they did a thousand years ago. It is said that, when Rob Roy haunted the opposite coasts of Dumbartonshire, he found it very con- venient to sail across and make a selection from the goods displayed in the Greenock fairs ; on which occasion the ellwands and staves of civilization would come into collision with the broad-swords and dirks of savage warfare, in such a style as might have served to show the extremely slight hold which the law had as yet taken of certain parts of our countiy. " Wordsworth, also, who approached Greenock from luverary, by way of Hell's glen, was strongly struck with the contrast which here pre- sented itself to the wild alpine wastes around Loch- Long. Said he, " We have not passed into a doleful city, We who were led to-day down a grim dell. By some too boldly named 'the Jaws of Hell :' Where be the wretched ones, the sights for pity ? These crowded streets resound no plaintive ditty: — As from the hive where bees in summer dwell, SoiTow seems here excluded, and that knell, It neither damps the gay, nor checks the witty. Alas! too busy rival of old Tyre, Whose merchants princes were, whose decks were thrones ; GREENOCK. 15 GEEENOCK. Soon may the punctual sea in vain respire To sen-e tliy need, in union with that Clyde, Whose rustling current brawls o'er noisy stones, The poor, the lonely, herdsman's joy and pride!" In the beginning of the 17th century, Greenock was a mean fishing village, consisting of a single row of thatched cottages. In 1635, Charles I., as administrator-in-law of his son Charles, then a minor, Prince and Steward of Scotland, granted a charter in favour of John Shaw, proprietor of the barony of Greenock, holding of the Prince, erecting the village of Greenock into a free burgh-of-barony, with the privilege of holding a weekly market on Friday, and two fairs annually. This creation was confirmed and renewed by Charles II., as Prince and Steward, in 1670, and received the ratification of parliament in 1681. In the course of that centuiy the town ac- quired some shipping, and engaged in coasting, and, to some extent, in foreign trade. The herring-fish- ery was the principal business prosecuted ; and in it no less than 900 boats, each having on board 4 men, and 24 nets were, during some seasons, employed. Besides the home consumption, immense quantities of herrings were exported to foreign markets; in particular, in the year 1674, 1,700 lasts, equal to 20,000 barrels, were exported to Kochelle, besides what were sent to other ports of France, to Sweden, to Dantzic, and other places on the Baltic. This branch of industry is still prosecuted here. In 1684, a vessel sailed from Greenock with a number of the persecuted religionists of the West of Scotland, who were sentenced to transportation to the American colonies. Next year a party connected with the Earl of Argyle's invasion landed here ; the bay pro- bably afi'ording some facility for such a purpose. In 1699, as appears from Borland's History, and not in 1697, as is usually represented, part of the Darien expedition was fitted out at Cartsdyke, which at that time was separate from Greenock, and had a quay, while Greenock had none. The baronial family of Shaw took a deep interest in the progress of the town, which indeed may be said to have been formed under their patronage. In 1696, and again in 1700, Sir John Shaw applied to the Scottish parliament for public aid to build a harbour at Greenock; but his applications were un- successful. The importance of the measure induced the inhabitants to make a contract with Sir John by which they agreed to an assessment of Is. 4d. sterling on every sack of malt brewed into ale within the limits of the town ; the money so levied to be ap- plied in defraying the expense of forming a pier and liarbour. The work was begun in 1703, and not finished till 1734. Within two circular quays — a mid quay or tongue intervening, consisting of above 2,000 feet of stone — were enclosed about 9 imperial acres. This formidable undertaking, the greatest of the kind at that time in Scotland, incurred an ex- pense of about £5,600, the magnitude of which alarmed the good people of Greenock so much, that on Sir John Shaw's agreeing to take the debt upon himself, they gladly resigned to him the harbour and the assessment. Such, however, was the effect of the harbour in increasing the trade and the pop- ulation of the town, that by the year 1740 the whole debt was extinguished, and there remained a surplus of £1,500, the foundation of the present town's funds. In our day it may seem strange tiiat the above tax on malt should have produced so large a sum as £5,600; and Messrs. Chambers, in their Gazetteer, pleasantly remark that the speedy liquidatian of the expense affords a proof, either of the great trade carried on, " or of the extreme thirstiness of the inhabitants," at the time in question; but it is u^ be recollected that at that time, and for a good while after, ale, not ardent spirits, formed the com mon drink of the labouring people. Since 1773, several acts of parliament have been passed for regulating the affairs of the port, which are under the management of trustees or commis- sioners, consisting of the magistrates and town- council, and ten gentlemen annually elected by the shipowners of the place. Of the original harbour scarcely a vestige remains, successive repairs and new erections having nearly effaced it. More capa- cious harbours, with dry docks and other appropriate accommodations, have, from time to time, been formed at an immense expense. These works are as commodious and elegant as any in the kingdom. The Custom house quay measures "990 feet in extent; the Albert quay and slip, 906 feet in extent; the West harbour and quays, 3,940 feet girthed, — the entrance to the harbour, 130 feet wide; the East India harbour and quays, 3,200 feet girthed, — the entrance to the harbour, 170 feet wide ; the Victoria harbour and quays, 2,200 feet girthed, — the entrance to the harbour, 150 feet wide. The quays run into deep water, and are approached by steamers at any state of the tide ; and a large extent of the outer onec has just been widened, so as to afford increase of accommodation, with decrease of bustle to the tran- sit steamers. Vessels of the largest class have suf- ficient depth of water and good anchorage in the roadstead outside, and can be admitted into the harbours. The Victoria harbour has a depth of 14 feet at low water of spring tides ; and on its quay is a crane capable of lifting 75 tons weight. Within these few weeks ground has been purchased in the west, at the cost of upwards of £30,000, with the view offorming another harbour, and providing dry-dock accommodation for the largest sea-going steamers. The prosperity of Greenock began at the auspici- ous era of the Union with England in 1707, which opened new views to the traders of the Clyde, by giving them a free commerce to America and the West Indies, which they had not before enjoyed ; and they soon began to send out goods to the colonies, returning chiefly with tobacco. After the completion of the harbour, Greenock was established a custom- house port, and a branch of Port-Glasgow, by an exchequer commission, dated the 16th of September, 1710. In 1719, the first vessel belonging to Green- ock crossed the Atlantic. The growing prosperity of the port excited the jealousy of the traders of London, Bristol, Liverpool, and Whitehaven, who accused those of Greenock and I'ort-Glasgow of defrauding the revenue; but the charge was tri- umphantly refuted. The commerce of Greenock continued to increase gradually till about 1760, when the increase became very rapid, and continued its course till it met with a check from tlie American war. After the peace in 1783, the increase became still more rapid; and during tbe 7 years from 1784 to 1791, the shipping trade of the place was nearly tripled in amount. About the beginning of the present century it had increased to a much greater amount than that of any other port in Scotland. The principal intercourse is with North and South America, and the East and West Indies; and here it deserves to be remarked that it was in Greenock, in 1813, that the first movement was made for break- ing up the monopoly of the East India Company. The Greenland whale-fishery, commenced here in 1752, was never of any importance, and is now^ dis- continued. The coasting trade at this port has de- clined since 1800. This, however, does not indicate a general failure of that trade on the Clyde, which, upon the whole, has greatly increased, but merely an alteration of the mode of carrying it on. In 1728, the gross receipt of the customs at Green- GREENOCK. 16 GREENOCK. ock was £15,231; in 1770, £57,336; in 1802, £211,081; in 1831, £592,008 ; in 1838, £417,673; ill the average of the live years 1840-1844, £357,173 ; in the average of the five years 1845-1849, £365,422 ; and in tlie year 1864, £1,U54,836. In 1784, tlie ship- ping trade of the port comprised a tonnage of 6,569 inwards in Britisli vessels, 58U inwards in foreign vessels, 7,297 outwards in British vessels, and 5J0 outwards in foreign vessels; in 1814, it comprised a tonnage of 40,447 inwards in British vessels, 1,007 inwards in foreign vessels, 43,685 outwards in Bri- tish vessels, and 986 outwards in foreign vessels ; in 1831, it comprised a tonnage of 49,887 inwards in British vessels, 4,100 inwards in foreign vessels, 54,236 outwards in British vessels, and 3,4U5 out- wards in foreign vessels; and in 1838, it comprised 59,014 inwards in British vessels, 8,267 inwards in foreign vessels, 58,714 outwards in British vessels, and 6,521 outwards in foreign vessels. In the aver- age of the five years 1840-1844, it comprised a ton- nage of 141,414 in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 3,904 in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, and 158,456 in the coasting trade; and in the average of the five years 1845-1849, it comprised a tonnage of 173,256 in the foreig^r and colonial trade in British vessels, 3,492 in the foreign and colonial tnxde in foreign vessels, and 121,050 in the coasting trade. In 1852, it comprised a tonnage of 98,041 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 2,133 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, 72,543 inwards in the coasting trade, 49,704 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 2,666 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, and 23,674 outwards in the coasting ti'ade ; and in 1860, it comprised a tonnage of 108,059 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 20,513 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, 183,684 inwards in the coasting trade, 75,231 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 10,124 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, and 86,689 outwards in the coasting trade. In 1825, the registered sailing vessels belonging to the port were 241, of aggregately 29,054 tons; in 1837, they were 386, of aggregately 47,421 tons; and in 1861, they were 359, of aggregately 77,550 tons. In 1861, the number of steam-vessels belonging to the port was 28, of aggregately 2,342 tons; and in 1855, the number daily arriving and departing was 87. 'I'lie exports of British manufactures from Green- ock, and the imports of foreign and colonial produce, have of late years been greatly affected by the arti- ficial deepening of the Clyde to Glasgow, much of the commerce of that city now being done directly from its own quays, which formerly was done in- directly through lighters at Greenock. The declared value of British and Irish goods exported from Greenock to foreign parts was, in 1831, £1,493,405- in 1834, £1,459,086; in 1838, £1,141,765 ; and in 1851, £491,913. The items in the last of these years were as follow,— coals, £12,128 ; cotton by the yard, £249,315 ; cotton by value, £5,725 ; cotton yarn. £40,155; herrings and other fish, £178; hab- erdasheiy and millinery, £12,276; hardware and cutlery, £1,707; iron and steel, £36,377 ; linens by the yard, £12,096 ; linens by value, £959; machinery and mill-work, £7,618; silk manufactures, £248- woollens by the piece, £5,534; woollens by the yard, £7,643; woollens by value, £2,404; woollen yarn, £192 ; all other articles, £97,358. Two prin- cipal articles of import are timber and sugar. The loads of timber in 1830 were 21,245; in 1840 47,048; in 1855, 44,619;— the hundreds of deals and battens in 1830 were 283; in 1840, 1,973; in 1855, 2,447;— the tons of sugar in 1830 -were 15,300; in 1840, 13,741 ; in 1855, 44,651 ; the tons of molasses in 1830 were 3,057; in 1840,9,131; in 1855,22.437. Numerous ships annually clear out with emigrants for America and Australia. A vast amount of local trade is done also, through the Glasgow river steamers, in constant transit, sometimes as numer- ously as five or six in the hour, to all the watering places and provincial markets in the frith. The manufactures of Greenock are various and extensive. Ship - building was commenced soon alter the close of the ^Vmerican war, and eventually rose to great prominence. During a number of years previous to 1840, from 6,000 to 7,000 tons of shipping were annually launched ; and in that j'ear 21 vessels, of the aggregate tonnage of 7,338, were built. All the building yards have great facility for launching; and most have a rich provision of artificial appliances. Boat-building is carried on as a distinct business from ship-building ; and has for years in succession prepared from 700 to 800 tons yearly for the launch, Iron-Avorking is can-ied on in six establishments for all sorts of cast-iron work and machinery, but particularly for the construction of steam-boilers, steam-engines, locomotives, and iron steam-vessels. The making of anchors and chain- cables is carried on in two separate establishments. Sugar-refining is prosecuted here to a greater extent than anywhere else in Scotland. The first house for this purpose was erected in 1765 ; and now there ai'e eleven sugar-refineries, some of thein on a large scale. There are also in the town or neighbourhood two sail-cloth factories, five roperies, five sail-mak- ing establishments, a large cotton mill, two woollen factories, a flax mill, a paper mill, three dyewood mills, four saw mills, six grain mills, five tanneries, a large cooper work, a distillery, three breweries, an extensive biscuit bakery, two soap and candle works, a pottery, a straw -hat manufactoiy, and chemical works for saltpetre, sulphate of zinc, sul- phate of copper, and phosphate of soda. All the ordinary kinds of handicraft, also, are prosecuted in a brisker manner and on a larger scale than in towns with a mere stagnant population. An extraordinary work connected with Greenock is that by which the town is plentifully supplied with water for domestic use, and machinery to a prodigious extent can be impelled. It was accom- plished in 1827 by an association called the Shaws Water company, constituted by act of parliament in 1825. The work comprises an immense artificial lake or reservoir situated in the bosom of the hills, behind the town, formed by turning the course of some small streams, the principal called Shaws water, which formerly ran into the sea at Innerkip, and from which the company takes its name. From this reservoir an aqueduct passes along the hill- I'ange, ranning for several miles at an elevation of 500 feet above the level of the sea. The whole length of the aqueduct is 6J miles ; the reservoir covers 296f imperial acres of land ; and there is a compensation -reservoir covering 40 acres, besides smaller basins. Self-acting sluices, most ingeni- ously constructed, prevent the danger of any over- flow, and completely preserve the water during the greatest floods. There are also two extensive filters. The whole of this magnificent work was planned and executed by Mr. Eobert Thom, at the expense of £90,000. In approaching the town, it pours down a current of water in successive falls, at the rate of 1,200 cubic feet per minute, impelling a series of mills and factories, with both a steadiness and a cheapness superior to steam. A remarkable one of the factories on the Shaws water is a cotton mill, which was founded with mur GREENOCK. 17 GREENOCK. sonic honours in June 1838. The mill is an oblong building 300 feet in length, 65 in width, and four stories in height. The elevation is plain, but chaste and elegant. The centre portion projects, with a pediment on the top, and finishes with an octagon belfry, surmounted by a vane. Each room in each flat is 215 feet long and 61 broad. The ceilings, which are lined with timber, are supported bj' two ranges of cast iron pillars, of which there are 40 in each room ; and over these pillars are transverse beams, each 9 feet apart. The apartments at the east end are used for cotton and for blowing rooms, and are fire-proof; they are separated from the work rooms by a stone gable; their ceilings are of arched brick-work resting on cast-iron beams, and the floors are of Arbroath flags. Those at the west end are employed as a counting room, and for warp- ing and winding apartments. The wheel-house stands at a distance of 21 feet from the east end of the mill; and is a large building, of plain but neat design. Its length is 90 feet, and its breadth 33. The base is nearly 50 feet below, while the roof is about 35 feet above, the level of the road. From its bottom a tunnelled tailrace nms under the road in an oblique direction, for a distance exceeding 100 yards. This tunnel, a consideiable proportion of which is 50 feet beneath the surface, and the under part of the wheel-house, were cut through solid whinstone rock. The arch of the tunnel, and the arc on which rests the axle of the wheel, are constracted of dressed freestone, the joints of which are joggled and filled with cement. The stones forming the arc weigh from one to ten tons each, and the whole consists of 5,000 tons of dressed mason work, ten feet thick. The wheel itself is the largest and most magnificent structure of the kind in the world; it measures 70 feet 2 inches in diameter, or 220 feet 6 inches in circum- ference, and is capable of working up to 200 horses' power with a full supply of water. It is constructed on what is called the tension or suspension principle; the shrouding or outer riiigs of the wheel being braced to the centre by 32 chain cable iron bars or arms 2f inches in diameter, and an equal number of diagonal braces of the same thickness. The axle of the wheel is of cast-iron, and weighs 11 tons. The bearings in which the wheel revolves, are 24 inches long and 18 inches in diameter, resting in cast-iron buslies. The cen- tres or naves, into which the arms and braces are fixed with gibs and cutters, are 10 feet in diameter, and weigh 8 J tons each. They are of a ribbed form, with punched covings, and have prominent sockets, for recei^ang the ends of the arms. They have a rich and elegant appearance, and the arms radiating towards the periphery of the wheel, give an impression of lightness to the ponderous machine. The shrouding is of cast-iron, and is of 17 inches in depth. On the side which is not covered by the gearing, there are two sunk pannels with a neat "egg and dart" moulding all round the styles; and, in the body of each pannel, there is a very elegant branch of the water-lily in bas relief, wliich has a very handsome eff'ect, by relieving this part of the wheel from that inexpressive plainness which is usual in such structures. The weight of the wheel is 117 tons. The shrouding is composed of G4, and the teethed segment of 32 pieces, containing in all 704 teeth. The buckets are 160 in number, and each contains 100 gallons of water. The sole of the wheel is constructed of iron plates fastened with no fewer than 20,000 rivets. The wheel performs nearly one revolution in the minute. The spur wheel and segment pinion, which works in the teethed segment of the water-wheel, weighs vi'ith its shaft II. 23 tons, and the pinion and main shaft into the mill weigh 13 tons. The spur wheel, the diameter of which is 18 feet 3 inches, revolves at the rate of 600 feet per minute, and the whole act together so smoothly that not the slightest shaking or noise is perceptible. — The cistern conducting the water to the wheel is of iron rivetted together, and is sup- ported by two cast-iron beams the full width for the wheel-house. The water strikes the wheel six feet fiom the top of the diameter. The governor of the wheel, which is of beautiful workmanship, and the rack for the sluice, are placed on a level with the cistern. To the east of the wheel-house is a store for cotton wool, capable of containing 800 bales. The building is fire-proof, having an arched roof of brick- work and stone side-walls ; and matters are so ar- ranged that, in the event of fire, the whole could be covered with water in fifteen minutes. — Behind tlie wheel-house stands the gas-work for lighting the manufactory. Its roof is formed by the troughs for conveying the water from the ordinary channel to the wheel, as is also that of the boiler-house for heating the mill by steam-pipes. One of the reservoirs of the Shaws water-works, called the Whinhill dam, having been constructed before these works were projected, was purchased by the water-company as it stood, and proved to be unsound. On the night of Saturday the 21st of No- vember, 1835, this reservoir, in consequence of a pressure from heavy rains, suddenl}' burst its banks, and poured its contents, consisting of three mil- lions of cubic feet of water, upon the grounds be- low, overwhelming the eastern extremity of Green- ock, and part of the suburb of Cartsdyke. The lateness of the hour, and the darkness of the night, added to the appalling character of the scene. About 40 persons lost their lives, and an immense amount of property was destroyed. So sweeping and so sudden was the torrent, that many of the victims were sur- prised in bed and drowned before they could leave their houses. Many persons made most remarka- ble escapes. In one instance, a man who volun- teered, when the flood was at its height, to rescue two children who had been left behind in a house, discovered the bed on which they had been laid floating on the water, and its occupants sound asleep, altogether unconscious of their danger. — In tlie Slimmer of tlie same year (25th July, 1835), a dreadful accid( iit occurred at the quay b}' the bursting of the boiler of the Earl Grey steamer, when 6 persons lost their lives, and a number were seriously injured. Greenock, as a town, consists of Greenock pro- per in the centre and the we t, and Crawfordsdyke or (.'artsdyke in the east ; and these, though now compactly united into one town, originally stood at some distance from each other. "Both," says Dr. Macfarlane, "may lay claim, as villages at least, to some antiquit)'. It is evident that they had their origin in their vicinity to the mansion-houses of Ihe respective proprietors of Greenock and Craw- fordsburn, and that at one time they were cherished by these proprietors, not without some degree of vivalship, from motives of patriotism, or as the means of increasing at once their wealth and their* influence. At first they were probably nothing more than fishing- villages ; but, at an early period, each appears to have had its harbour capable of re- ceiving and mooring vessels of considerable bur- den." The earliest description of Greenock which has come under our notice occurs in the work of a French writer who visited it about the year 1670, who calls the place " Krinock," and says, — " This town is the passage of the Scotch post and packet- boat to Ireland. Its port is good, sheltered by the GREENOCK. 18 GREENOCK. mountains wliich surround it, and by a great mole, by the side of wliich are ranged the barks and other vessels for the conveniciicv of loading and unload- ing more easilv." The " great mole," here men- tioned was merely a rude landing-place. Crawtnrd, %vho wrote in 1710, at the time when the harbour was in progress, describes Greenock as "the chief town upon the coast, well built, consisting chiefly of one principal street, about a quarter of a mile m length." About this time the houses were covered with thatch; in 17IG, there were only 6 slated houses in the place. In 1782, Semplc, the conti- nuator of Crawfurd's work, said : " About two years ago John Shaw Stewart of Greenock, Esq., caused survey and draw a plan of the town, and laid oft' a great' jiart of the adjacent ground regularly for building upon, having feued off a number of stead- ings, where several good houses arc built, part of which is to be called the New Town of Greenock. The town has greatly increased in building within these thirty years, "being compact with elegant houses, a number of them slated. Good streets, and well-causeyed, some of them veiy broad, particu- larly north of the New church." The town, in its present appearance, is very di- versified. The terraces facing the quays are partly spacious and pleasant, partly naiTow and dirty, and aggregately irregular and crowded. The old por- tions of the town have generally bad alignments, contracted thoroughfares, and an ill-conditioned sewerage ; and they abound in narrow alleys, filthy closes, and dingy houses; so that even the very small part of them which has to be traversed from the railway terminus to the steam-boat quay is far from agreeable to strangers. The central streets of the old town, particularly Cathcart-square, and the three streets leading from it to respectively the east, the north, and the west, are decidedly good, and make a grand display of shops. Most of the streets in the west, as also some of those on the face of the ascent in the centre, are regular, airy, and well-edi- ficed. The westeni outskirts extend far and plenti- fully, and are altogether clean and riant, abound- ing in villas, looking freely out to the frith or to the Highlands, and combining most beauteously a se- ries of fine foregrounds with a diversified range of rich perspective. The most conspicuous public building in Green- ock is the custom-house, an oblong Grecian edifice, with a splendid portico, situated upon the quay, wheie- — not being encumbered with contiguous buildings — it is seen to much advantage. It was erected in 1818, at the expense of £30,000. The old town-hall and public offices were planned in 1765 by James Watt, and finished the following year ; a'ul large additions were afterwards made to tiiem. The new town-hall and public offices, an cxtensive^and elegant pile of building, were erected in 1856. Tlie tontine, an inn and hotel in Cathcart- sticet, is a substantial and handsome structure erect- ed, in 1801, at the expense of £10,000. Nearly op- posite are the exchange buildings, finished in 1814, at a cost of £7,000, and containing two assembly- rooms and other accommodation. Behind these g buildings is the theatre, which has recently been sold to be made into a provision warehouse. An hospital or infirmary was erected in 1809, and a jail or bridewell in 1810. A commodious news-room was opened in Cathcart-square in 1821. The gas- work was constructed in 1828, and cost £8,731. The mechanics' institution was built in 1840. The Greenock library, an Elizabethan structure in Union-street, was built in 1837, at the cost of about £3,000, which was defrayed bv Mr. Watt of 8oho, only survisnng son of James Watt, a native of Greenock, the celebrated improver of the steam- engine. A fine marble statue of James Watt, by Chantrey, tlie expense of which was raised by sub- scription, adorns the interior of the libraiy. On the front of the pedestal of the statue is the following inscription from the elegant pen of Jeff're)'-: — "The inhabitants of Greenock have erected this statue of James Watt, not to extend a fame already identi- fied with the miracles of steam, but to testify the pride and reverence with which he is remembered in the place of his nativity, and their deep sense of the great benefits his genius has conferred on man- kind. Born 19th January, 1736. Died at Heath field in Staff"ordshire, August 25th, 1819." On the right of the pedestal is a shield, containing the arms of Greenock, and, on the left, emblems of strength and speed. On the back is an elephant, in obvious allusion to the beautiful parallel drawn by the writer of the inscription between the steam-engine and the trunk of that animal, which is equally quali- fied to lift a pin or to rend an oak. Wood's hospital or the mariners' asylum is a splendid palatial-look- ing edifice, in the Elizabethan style, on the High Gourock road, beyond the western outskirts of the town, built in 1851 at the cost of about £10,000, and liberall}^ endowed for the maintenance of aged, infirm, and disabled seamen belonging to the counties bordering on the Clyde. This fine institu- tion arose out of a bequest of £80,000, by Sir Gabriel Wood, who died in London in 1845. The places of worship in Greenock, aggregately con- sidered, are creditable to the town-, and the three of them with steeples are appropriate and con- spicuous. A beautiful new cemetery, already well decorated with tasteful monuments and other de- signs, was laid out a few years ago in the south- western outskirts of the to^vn. The grounds ot Wellpark, comprising five acres, and situated not far from the centre. of the town, were given by Sir M. R. S. Stewart in 1851 to be laid out in public walks. For a long time the inhabitants of Greenock were almost exclusively devoted to commerce, and gave little countenance to literature or science. In 1769, when John Wilson, a poet of considerable merit, the author of the well-kno-ivii piece on "the Clyde," was admitted as master of the grammar school of Greenock, the magistrates and ministers made it a condition that he should abandon " the profane and unprofitable art of poem-making," — a stipulation which 30 years afterwards drew from the sileiaced bard the following acrimonious remarks in a letter addressed to his son George when a student at Glasgow college: — "I once thought to live by the breath of fame; but how miserably was I dis- appointed when, instead of having my perfoiTnances applauded in crowded theatres, and being caressed by the great — for what will not a poetaster in hia intoxicating delirium of possession dream ? — I was condemned to bawl myself to hoarseness to wayward brats, to cultivate sand and wash Ethiopians, for all the dreary days of an obscure life — the contempt of shopkeepers and brutish skippers." Since that time a better taste, and more liberality of sentiment, have prevailed, and some attention has been paid to the cultivation of science. In 1783, the Greenock library was instituted; and, in 1807, a collection of Foreign literature in connexion with it was com- menced. This library contains upwards of 12,000 volumes, and is the one already mentioned as oc- cupying the building erected by Mr. Watt. An- other library, the mechanics', was formed in 1832; and the institution connected with it very soon had so many as 800 students. A book club was insti- tuted in 1849. There are also a Watt club, an Ard GKEENOCK. 19 GREINOKD. gowan club, a philharmouic society, a medical and chirurgical association, a horticultural society, an agricultural society, a society for promoting Chris- tian knowledge, and two correspondencies in con- nexion with the fine arts. Letter-press printing was established here in 1765, by one MacAlpine, who was also the first bookseller. It was confined to handbills, jobbing, &c., till 1810, when the first book was printed by William Scott. In 1821, Mr. John Mennons began the printing of books; and many accurate and elegant specimens of typo- graphy, original and selected, have issued from his press. With regard to newspapers, the Greenock Advertiser, published twice a-week, has existed since 1802; the Clyde Commercial List, published for some time thrice a-week, is defunct; the In- telligencer, begun in 1833, and the Observer, begun in 1840, are also defunct; and the Greenock Herald, of later origin, is published twice a-weck. There are in Greenock a Provident Bank, and branches of the City of Glasgow Bank, the Bank of Scotland, the Clydesdale Bank, the Royal Bank, the National Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Co 's Bank, and the Union Bank. The town has fifty-two insurance agencies, a trade protection society, a Lloyd's register, a Lloyd's agent, a local marine board, a chamber of commerce, a merchant seamen's fund, a fishery office, and full stafis of officials connected with the harbour and the public revenue. A weekly market is held on Friday; and fairs are held on the first Thursday of July and the fourth Tuesday of November. Hotels, inns, and public houses are very numerous and of every class. Kemarkably abundant facilities of communication are enjoyed with Gourock by omnibuses, with Paisley and Glasgow by railway, and with all places on the Clyde, as well as with the chief ports in the Western Highlands, in Ireland, in Galloway, and in the west of England, by steam-vessels. In the Greenock district of the herring fishery, there were cured, in the year 1853, 13,794^ barrels of herrings, there were employed in the fishery 2,503 persons, and the total value of boats, nets, and lines engaged in it was £18,649. Till 1741 the burghal affairs of Greenock were superintended by the superior, or by a baron-bailie appointed by him. By a charter dated in that year, and by another dated in 1751, Sir John Shaw, the superior, gave power to the feuars and sub- feuars to meet yearly for the purpose of choosing 9 feuars residing in Greenock, to be managers of the burgh funds, of whom 2 to be bailies, 1 treasurer, and 6 councillors. The charter of 1751 gave power to hold weekly courts, to imprison and punish delin- qu ^nts, to chose officers of court, to make laws for maintaining order, and to admit merchants and tradesmen as burgesses on payment of 30 merks Scots— £1 13s. 4d. sterling. It is believed tliere is no instance on record of any burgesses ever having been admitted. The qualification of councillor was being a feuar and resident within the town. The election was in the Avhole feuars, resident and non- resident. The mode of election of the magistrates and council was by signed lists, personally de- livered by the voter, stating the names of the councillors he wished to be removed, and the per- sons whom he wished substituted in their room. In 1825, 497 feuars voted. The commissioners on municipal corporations stated in their Report, in 1833, that " this manner of electing is much approved of in the town." They also reported, that " the affairs of this flourishing town appear to liave been managed with great care and ability. The expenditure is economical, the remuneration to officers moderate, and the accounts of the different trusts are clear and accurate." The municipal government and jurisdiction of the town continued to be administered under the charter of 1751, with- out any alteration or enlargement, until the burgh reform act of 1 833 came into operation. Under that act, the town-council consists of a provost, 4 bailies, a treasurer, and 10 councillors, for the election of whom the town is divided into 5 wards, 4 of which return 3 councillors each, and one returns 4: the ward having 4 councillors has a preponderance of electors. The bailie-court of Greenock has now the same jurisdiction, both civil and criminal, compe- tent to a royal burgh. By an act of parliament passed in 1840, Cartsdyke forms part of the burgh of Greenock. In 1839-40, the corporation revenue was £22,564; and in 1865-66, it was £50,730. The magistrates and town-council, together with nine persons elected by the feuars, householders and ratepayers, are a board of trustees for paving, light- ing, cleansing, and watching the town, and for supplying it with water. Previous to the passing of the reform act in 1832, Greenock had no voice in the parliamentary representation ; but since then it sends one member to parliament. Its parliamen- tary boundaries are the same as the municipal. Constituency in 1866, 1,871. Till 1815, the sherifi"- court for the whole of Renfrewshire was held at Paisley; but in that year an additional sheriff-sub- stitute, to be resident at Greenock, was appointed; and by an act of court promulgated by the sheriff'- depute, dated 3d May, it was declared that the dis- trict or territory falling under the ordinary jurisdic- tion of the court at Greenock should be termed " the Lower Ward," and that it should in the mean- time consist of the towns and parishes of Greenock and Port-Glasgow, and the parish of Innerkip. To this ward the parish of Kilmalcolm has since been annexed. A sheriff-court is held every Friday; a sheriff small debt court, every Monday; and a justice of peace court, every Thursday. Population of the burgh in 1831, 27,571; in ' 1861, 42,098. Houses, 1,848. The noble family of Cathcart take from this town their second title in the peerage. Baron Greenock, conferred in 1807. They are descended from Sir John Shaw of Greenock, who died in 1752, through his only child Marion, and inherit feu-duties in the town to a considerable amount, being that part of the Shaw estate which was not entailed on the family of Shaw Stewart of Blackball, now also of Greenock. — Much the most famous names in the history of Greenock are those of the Shaw Stewarts, and of James Watt. Gait the novelist also passed part of his early days in Greenock; and, having re- turned to it toward the end of his life, died here in 1839. Burns' " Highland Mary " likewise died here, and a monument in memory of her was raised in the old church-yard, with masonic honours, in 1842. GREENOCK RAILWAY. See Glasgow, Pais- ley, AND Greenock Railv,-ay. GREENS. See Tyne (The). GREENSIDE. See Edinburgh GREENSTONE POINT, the headland on the north side of Loch Ewe, on the coast of the parish of Gairloch, Ross-shire. GREENYARD. See Greinord. GREETO BURN, a tributaiy of the Gogo rivulet, joining it about the middle of its course, in the parish of Largs, Ayrshire. GREINORD, a bay, a burn, and an island, on the west coast of lioss-shire. The name is also written Gruinard and Greenyard. Greinord bay, or Loch Greinord, lies between Little Lochbroom and Loch Ewe, nearer the former than the latter. It measures fully G milts across the entrance, pene GRENNAX. 20 trates the land 5 miles soutliward, and has in its upper part a somewhat semicircular outline. It abounds with haddock, cod, whiting, and shell-fish; and its shores, especially on the east side, are a Fcries of rocky knolls and pleasant little inlets. Oreinord burii descends northward, through a mountainous tract, to the head of the bay, tracing the boundary between the parishes of Lochbroom and Gairloch, and abounding in its lower part with salmon. Greinord isle lies nearly in the middle of the mouth of the bay, is about li mile long and in- habited, and belongs to the parish of Lochbroom. GREXAND CASTLE. See Mavbole. GRENNAN, a small bay and a hill near the middle of the east side of the parish of Kirkmaiden, Wigton shire. GRESS. See Storxoway. GRESSALLACn (Loch), a bay on the east coast of Harris, south of East Loch-Tarbet. GRETNA, a parish, containing the post-office station of Gretna, the hamlets of Old Gretna, Rigg of Gretna, and Brewhouses, and the village of Gretnagreen or Springfield, on the south-east verge of Dumfries-shire. It is bounded on the north by Half- Morton; on the east by the river Sark, which divides it from England ; on the south-east and south by the Solway frith ; on the west by Dornock; and on the north-west by Kirkpatrick- Fleming. Its greatest length south-westward is G^ miles; its greatest breadth is 3J miles; and its superficial area is 18 square miles. The surface is, in general, level, and only slightly diversified with rising grounds or hillocks. The highest elevation is Gretna-hill, which rises about 250 feet above sea- level, and commands a delightful prospect of the coast of Cumberland, the Solway frith, the How of Annandale, and the mountain-ranges of upper Annandale, Eskdale, Liddesdale, and part of North- umberland. Near the extremity of the frith, which terminates at the influx of the Sark, a large tract of marsh land of a lively green colour has been formed, and is progressively enlarging, in consequence of a recession of the waters on the Dumfries side, and an encroachment of them on the side of Cumberland. Excepting some small patches of moss, the parish is everywhere enclosed, cultivated, and luxuriant. In several parts, particularly on a strip of land along the frith, the soil is a fine rich loam, and in other parts it is of a wet and clayey nature ; but, in gen- eral, it is dry, sandy, and uiixed with stones, power- ful in its fertility, and abundant in its autumnal response to the call of cultivation. Perennial sprin«:s, welling up from the fissures of sandstone-rocks, or through beds of reddish coloured sand, are numer- ous, and aflbrd a luxurious supply of excellent •water. Some mineral springs also send up their treasures, but have been neglected owing chiefly to their being sometimes submerged by the tide. The Sark forms the boundaiy-line for 3J miles, and over all that distance intervenes betw'een Gretna and Cumberland. The Kirtle comes in upon the parish from the north, intersects it over its greatest breadth, flowing along an almost horizontal sand- stone bed, and fiills into the Solway 7 furlongs west of the mouth of the Sark, forming at its embouchure a very tiny bay. The Black Sark conies down upon the north-western anale of the parish, forms Its boundai7-line for a mile with Half- Morton, and then flows cu-cuitously through it over a course of 2i miles, and falls into the Sark at Newton. The line of sea-coast, somewhat sinuous, and about 4J miles in length, is low, and consists of mixed sand und clay. Redkirk-point, U mile, and TordofF-point, 3^ miles distant from Sarkfoot, alone break the uni- formity of the level ; and the latter is, on a small GKETNA. scale, a bold headland. There are several small ports or landing-places, particularly those of Sark and of Brewhouses ; but they are of trivial import- ance, and facilitate chiefly the landing of coals from the ports of Cumberland. Vessels of 120 tons burden may sail up to Sarkfoot ; vessels of 100 tons may put into the other landing-places ; and all may, at any time, lie in safety on the flat sandy ground stretching out from the beach. The Solway, from Sarkfoot to Redkirk point, opposite to which it receives the waters of the Eden, is only li mile broad; but, lower down, it expands to a breadth of 2| miles. The tide of the Solway — here of a whitish colour, owing to its traversing and tearing up a vast expanse of sand — flows due east, or directly along the bed of the frith, with amazing impetuosity. Abundance of salmon, and occasionally supplies of cod, sturgeon, and herrings, are here obtained from its -waters. The climate of the parish is remarkably salubrious. About 600 of the inhabitants, men, women, and children, are employed in cotton weav- ing, subordinately to inanufactuiers in Carlisle. The parish is traversed by the great roads from Western and Southern Scotland to Carlisle, and by the Caledonian railway, and the Glasgow and Southwestern railwaj'; it contains the junction in which these two railways unite ; and it has a station on the Caledonian at the Gretna junction, and a station on the Glasgow and Southwestern at Gretna- green. Population in 1831, 1,909; in 1861, 1,620. Houses, 307. Assessed property in 1843, £6,068 15s. Real rental upwards of £9,000. Estimated average yearly value of raw produce, in the years preceding 1834, £50,000. On the farm of Gretna-mains stood, 65 years ago, considerable remains of a Druidical temple, oval in form, enclosing about half an acre of ground, and formed of large rough whinstones, which must have been brought from a distance of at least 10 or 12 miles. One of the largest of the stones — the only one not re- moved in a process of agricultural improvement — measures 118 cubic feet, and is computed to weigh upwards of 20 tons. This temple is traditionally famous as the scene of the formation of ancient al- liances between Scotland and England. Traces exist, in various localities, of old square towers, very thick in their walls, which appear to have been strongholds of freebooters, or places of defence against marauders from the English Border. — The hamlet of Old Gretna stands on the east bank of the Kirtle, in a hollow about half-a-mile from the Sol- way; and is remarkable chiefly for giving name to the parish, — the words Gretan-hol, or Gretan-hmv in the Anglo-Saxon, signifying 'the great hollow,' and describing tlie topogi'aphical situation of the hamlet. — Rigg of Gretna stands on the west bank of the Kirtle, opposite the former hamlet, and 5 furlongs distant from it; and is noticeable solely for being the site of a United Presbyterian cliapel. Brew- houses, situated on the bay or slight inland bend ot the frith between Redkirk and TordofF-points, is noticeable only as a tiny seaport. Gretnagreen, originally called Meg's hill, is in reality a hamlet in the vicinity of Springfield; but in popular par- lance, is very generally identified with that village. It is composed of the parish church, a simple and unassuming little pile by the road-side, the manse, the parish school-house, the schoolmaster's dwell- ing, two farm-houses, and two or three cottages. Springfield will be described in its own alphabetical place. Gretnagreen has been famous for runaway marriages between parties from England, who take advantage of the facility with which the law of Scotland allows a valid marriage to be contracted. The celebration of these marriages hen; is carried GREY-HOPE. 21 GROAY. jn as a trade which long hrought the celebrators about £1,000 a-year ; but it was ever disreputable and very scandalous, and has been now driven from its old prominence by the stern gaze of public scorn. — On the Cumberland side of the frith, opposite Gretnagreen, on a place called Burgh-marsh, stands a monument, marking the spot where death arrested the proud and impetuous career of the first Edward, as he was marching with giant-sti'ides across the border to conquer Scotland. Nearly in the same direction, Skiddaw, Helvellyn, and Scawfell, with other mountains in the lake-district of Cumberland, rear their tall blue summits in the distance, and seem to plant an insuperable barrier against the progress of the Northman venturing south. The hills, extending all along the horizon, appear, when the sun is high in summer, to form one I'egular and unbroken chain from Penrith to Whitehaven. As soon, however, as the rays of the sinking sun begin to fall upon the earth with considerable obliquity, and to tinge with a golden hue the long steep flank of this sierra, it is cut and broken into a thousand individual masses ; and deep ravines, and winding valleys, and rugged slopes, present all the beautiful variety of their forms, which, though perfect in out- line, the distance sometimes renders indistinct in colour. The parish of Gretna is in the presbj' tery of An- nan, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Earl of Mansfield. Stipend, £237 6s. lid.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £365 19s. lOd. The parish church was built in 1790, and contains about 1,000 sittings. The United Presbyterian church was built in 1832, at the cost of about £1,000, and con- tains 357 sittings. There are two parochial schools with equal salaries of £25 attached to them ; and there are three private schools and a mechanics' in- stitute. The present parish comprehends the old parishes of Gretan-How and Ren-Patrick, which were united in 1609. The churches of both parishes were, in the 12 th century, bestowed by Robert de Bruce, on the monks of Gisburn. In 1609, John Mun-ay, the first Earl of Annandale, obtained the church-lands of Ren-Patrick, and the tithes of both it and Gretan-How. The church of Ren-Pati-ick was dedicated to Saint Patrick by the predilections of the Scoto-Irish colonists, and, according to the meaning of its name in their language, was 'St. Pat- rick's portion;' but owing to the colour of the stones of which it was constructed, it was popularly called the Red-kirk, and it gave that name to the headland or point on which it stood. Its ruins, as well as its cemetery, have now entirely disappeared, having been worn away by the powerful attrition of the tide on the headland, in careering round to the mouth of Kirtle water. The whole district of Gretna, in consequence of lying on the frontier of Scotland, conterniinously with the debatable lands between the Sark and the Esk, down to the period of the union of the Crowns, was the scene of almost inces- sant feuds and forays ; and even after that date, do^vn to half a century ago or even later, it was nearly as much demoralized, and as completely a stranger to the arts and comforts of civilized life, by being tlie retreat of numerous bands of desperate and incorrigible smugglers, as in formerly having been the scene of constant petty predatory warfare. GREYFRIARS. See Edinburgh, Glasgow, Ayr, Dumfries, Elgin, Stirling, Perth, and Andrews, (St.). GREY-HOPE, a small bay, north of the bay of Nigg, and close by the Girdleness lighthouse, near the north-eastern extremity of Kincardineshire. The Greenland ship, the Oscar, was lost here in 1813, when 55 persons on board of her perished. GREY MARE'S TAIL, a celebrated waterfall in the mountainous region of the northern verge of Dumfries-shire, f of a mile from the northern boundary of Moffat parish, and geographically 8^ miles north-east of the town of Moffat. Loch-Skene collects among the mountains superfluent supplies of waters, at the height of about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, and sends them off in a consid- erable stream south-eastward, to Moffat water. See Skene (Loch). The stream, about f of a mile after its efilux from the lake, is precipitated over a stu- pendous breast of rocks, 400 feet in height, marred in its sublime descent only by slightly projecting ledges ; and with a thundering noise, dashes down between two high, precipitous, and rocky hills, in a long stripe of foam, darkened, or made greyish in its whiteness, by the foil of black rock behind it, and bearing, on a magnificent scale, a resem- blance to the object whence — somewhat fantastically — it has derived its name. The cataract is seen to most advantage after a heavy rain ; for then, escap- ing or overleaping the ledges, it becomes almost strictly a cascade, and appears to be, from top to bottom, an unbroken sheet of water. A short dis- tance from the water-fall is a hollow space called the Giant's grave. The entire scenery of tlie ravine is savagely gloomy and dismally sublime. A foot- path along the face of one of the sides conducts a visitor to a vantage-ground, whence he looks down on great part of the water-fall ; and — to adopt the words of Sir Walter Scott, — " There deep deep down, and far within Toils witli the rocks the roaring linn, Then, issuing forth one foaming wave, And wlieeliug round the Giant's srave, White as the snowy charger's tail Drives down the pass of Moffat dale." GREY MARE'S TAIL, a waterfall in the parish of Closeburn, Dumfries-shire. See Closeburn. GRIAN (Loch), a lake about 2 miles long, at the western extremity of the parish of Lairg, Suther- landshire. It approaches very near the west end of Loch Shin. GRIBTON. See Holywood. GRICENESS, a headland flanking the north side of Mill bay, on the east coast of the island of Strou- sav, in Orkney. GRIESHERINISH. See Duieinish. GRIMNESS, a headland on the east side of South Ronaldshay, 2 miles south of the nearest part of Burray, in Orkney. GRIMBISTER HOLM, a small island in the bay of Firth, on the east side of the mainland of Orkney. GRIME'S DYKE. See Antoninus' Wall. GRIMSAY, an island belonging to the parish of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides. It is about 3 miles long, and lies in the middle of the eastern part of the sound between the island of North Uist and the island of Benbecula. It was formerly considered barren and of trivial value, but has been turned fc) good habitable account. Population in 1841, 269 j in 1861, 305. Houses, 51. GRIMSHADER (Loch), a marine inlet in the parish of Lochs, east side of Lewis, in the Outer Hebrides. It enters at a point 4| miles south of Stornoway, and penetrates the land to the extent of 3 miles. GRIMTSTA (The), a salmon frequented stream, flowing into Loch Roag, in the parish of Uig, island of Lewis, Outer Hebrides. GRITMOOR, a mountain, rising about 1,800 feet above sea-level, on the mutual border of the parish of Teviothcad and the parish of Castleton, Roxburghshire. GROAY, a small uninhabited island, lving2 miles GRUGAIG. 22 GUTHRIE. Bouth-west of the southern extremity of Harris, in the Outer Hebrides. GRITCULA. See Shapinsihy. GRUGAIG BURN, a livulet running northward through the parish of Eddertoun, to the Dornoch frith, in Ross-shire. GRUINARD (Locii), a marine inlet on the north- west side of the island of Islay. It penetrates the land about 4 miles in a southerly direction, and ap- proaches within 3J miles the middle of the west side of Lochindaal. A preat part of it is dry at low water, and the channel is intricate .nnd has a bar; yet tlie loch is a place of safety for small vessels. in 1588, a strong party of the Macleans from Mull, headed by Sir Laiichlan Maclean, landed here to contest with the Macdonalds the proprietorship of the island, and were met by Sir James Macdonald at the head of a force much inferior to their own. Taking possession of a hill at the side of the loch, which tlic Macleans had ineffectually endeavoured to secure, Sir James attacked their advanced guard, which he forced to fall back upon their main body. A desperate struggle then took place, in which great valour was displayed on both sidis. Sir Lauchlan was killed fighting at the head of his men, who were at length compelled to retreat to their boats and vessels. Besides their cliief, the Macleans left 80 of their principal men, and 200 common soldiers, dead on the field of battle. Lauchlan Bar- roch-Maclean, son of Sir Lauchlan, was dangerously wounded, but escaped. Sir James Macdonald was also so severely wounded that he never fully recov- ered from his wounds. About .30 of the Clandonald were killed, and about 60 wounded. GRUINARD (Locii), Ross-shire. See Greisord. GRUNA, a small uninhabited island, 1^ mile north of Fetlar, in Shetland. GRUTNESS. Sec Ddxrossness. GRYFE (The), a river of Renfrewshire. Jt rises in the wcsteni part of the county, among the high- lands of the parish of Greenock, and runs eastward. At Walkinshaw it joins the Black Cart ; and after a short course, bending to the north, a junction is formed with the White Cart at Inchiunan bridge. Having flowed about half-a-mile farther, the united streams, which now baar the general name of Cart, fall into the Clyde at Blythswood house, 7 miles below Glasgow, and 3| miles north of Paisley. The whole run of Gryfe is about 17 miles. On it's banks are some cotton-mills, and other works. Anciently, this stream gave the name of Strathgryfe to the district it traverses, if not to the whole of what now forms the county of Renfrew. GUALLAN, a summit upon a base of moorland, and rising to an altitude of about 1,.350 feet above sea-level, on the mutual border of the parishes of Buchanan and Drymen, Stirlingshire. GUARD-BRIDGE, a locality on the river Eden, at the northern verge of the parish of St. Andrews, Fifeshire. It occurs at the point where the roads from Cupar and Dundee to St. Andrews meet ; and takes its name from a bridge of six arches, con- structed upwards of four centuries ago by Bishop Wardlaw. It is the site of a post-office, and also has a station on the St. Andrews railway. GUELT WATER. See Gelt Water. GUIDIE (The). See Goodie (The). GUILDIE, a village in the parish of Monikie, Forfarshire. Population, 83. Houses. 18. GUILDIEMOOR, a village in the parish of Moni- kie, Forfarshire. ^ Population, 75. Houses, 20. GUILDTOWN, a post-office village in the parish of St. Martin's, Perthshire. Population, 178. Houses, -14. GUIRM (Loch), a .sheet of water, about 4 miles in circumference, in the island of Islay. There are remains of a fortalice of the Macdonalds upon a small island in it. GUIRSHADER. See Stornoway. GUISACHAN (The). See Dee (The). GULANl'"-, a post-office village in the parish of Dirleton, Haddingtonshire. It is situated 3 fur- longs from the shore, half-way between the villages of Dirleton and Aberlady, on the road between Edin- burgh and North Berwick; and, though irregularly built, possesses several good modern houses. Till tlie year 1612, when, by act of parliament, the ori- ginal parish-church was abandoned, and a new one erected at the village of Dirleton, Gulane gave name to the parish in which it stands. The name is the British Go-hjn, signifying 'a little lake;' and seems to have been suggested by the vicinity to the village of a lochlet which is now drained. Gulane is the site of a school-house, of two establishments for the training of race-horses, and of the venerable rains of the ancient parish church. The village is famed for its extensive sandy downs, thinly carpeted with herbage, which abound with gray rabbits, and are fanned at a high rent as a rabbit-warren, and, at the same time, form the finest coursing-ground in Scotland : See Dirleton. Gulane common com- prises nearly one-half of the links or downs of the parish. Grose, in his Antiquities, gives a view ot the ruins of the old parish church, — which are still in good preservation; and says — though without mentioning his authority — that the last vicar was expelled by James VI. for smoking tobacco. The church, which is very ancient, was dedicated to St. Andrew; and after having been, for some time, partially in the possession of the Cistertian nuns of Berwick, was given, in the reign of William the Lion, to the monks of Dryburgh. Subordinate to it, and within the limits of the parish, there were anciently no fewer than three chapels ; one on the isle of Fiddrie ; another built, in the 12th century, by the laird of Congleton ; and another built, in the reign of Alexander III., by Alexander de Vallibus, at the village of Dirleton. Population of Gulane, 273. Houses, 66. GULANE-NESS, a small promontory composed of greenstone rock, in the parish of Dirleton, Had- dingtonshire. It is 13 miles distant from the isle of May ; and is regarded b)^ some as the point where the fiith of Forth opens into the German ocean. GULBERWICK, an ancient parish in the main- land of Shetland. It was annexed to Lerwick in 1722, and was previously incorporated with Ting- wall. It lies to the south of Lerwick, and measures about 5 miles by 2. There are, or lately were, re- mains of several chapels in it. GULBIN (The), a streamlet, running northward to the Spean, at a point about j of a mile below the foot of Loch Laggan in Inverness-shire. GUMSCLEUGH, a mountain on the south-west border of the parish of Traquair, Peebles-shire, and the northern border of the parish of YaiTOw, Sel- kirkshire, forming at its summit the water-line be- tween the two counties. It rises 2,485 feet above the level of the sea ; and is one of the stations of the trigonometrical survey of Britain. GUNNA, a small island of the Hebrides, lying in the sound betwixt the islands of Coll andTiree. It is about a mile long, and half-a-mile broad. GUNNISTER, one of the smaller Shetland isles, in the parish of Northmaven, a mile north of the mainland. GUNSGREEN. See Eyemouth. GUTHRIE, a parish in the Sidlaw district of Forfarshire. Its post-town is Arbroath, 8 miles soutli-cast of the parish church; but a nearer post- GUTHRIE. 23 HABBIE'S HOW, town is Forfar, 7 miles west by south. The parish is inconveniently divided into two parts, one of which lies 6 miles south-west of the other. The northern part measures in extreme length, from east to west, 3 miles, and in extreme breadth 3 miles ; and is bounded by Aberlemno, Farnell, Kirk- den, Kinnell, and Rescobie. Almost the whole of this division, from the hill of Guthrie on the west, rising at its highest point about 500 feet above the level of the sea, slopes gently to the south and east. About 370 acres of it on the north-east, are part of the moor of Moati'ithmont. All its^outhern boun- dary is traced by Lunan water. On the north-east is a lochlet, whence issues the main head-stream of Torr water, a tributary of the South Esk. The southern division of the parish has the distinctive name of Kirkbuddo, and is in form a triangle, two of whose sides measure each 1 f mile, and the other 2^ miles ; and it is bounded by Inverarity, Dunnichen, Carmylie, and Monikie. Though it has no hill, it all lies high ; the lowest ground in it being, not improbably, 700 feet above the level of the sea. But nearly all of it, as well as the greater portion of the northern division— though not rich in soil — is well cultivated, and agreeably sheltered with wood. On its south-western limit, but partly in the parish of Inverarity, are traces of a Roman camp, which covered at least 15 acres. The vallum and fosse are yet distinct, and of considerable height and depth. The landowners of the parish are Guthrie of Guthrie, Carnegy of Lower, and Ogilvy of Kirkbuddo. The northern division is Guthrie proper, and contains the castle, church, and kirk- town of Guthrie, and is adjacent to the Arbroath and Forfar turnpike, and to the Arbroath and For- far railway, and has a station on the latter in its junction with the Aberdeen railway. The castle oi Guthrie, suppo.sed to have been built by Sir Alex- ander Guthrie, who was slain at Flodden, is a mas- sive building, with walls about 60 feet high, and 10 feet thick, and has just been repaired and enlarged, so as to make a grand appearance amid a mass of wood. The family who inhabit it is perhaps the most ancient in the county. The kirktown, situated about J of a mile from the castle, is a mere hamlet, with only about 50 inhabitants. Population of the parish in 1831, 528 ; in 18G1, 476. Houses, 93 Assessed property in 1866, £5,449 19s. This parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, Guthrie of Guthrie. Stipend, £158 7s. 6d.; glebe, £9, with 3 acres of moor. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with about £18 fees. The parish church was built in 1826, and contains 306 sittings. There is a sub- scription school in Kirkbuddo. The ancient church of Guthrie belonged to the monks of Arbroath, and was purchased from them, and erected into a col- legiate church for a provost and three prebends, in the 15th century, by Sir David Guthrie ; and the church of Kirkbuddo, then a rectory, was attached to this collegiate church, so as to be sei-ved bv its officiates. GUVAN. See Govan. GUYUD. See Elliot (The). GYLEN CASTLE. See Keerera. GYNAG (Loch), a small lake in the upper part of the north side of the parish of Kingussie, Inver- ness-shire. On an islet in it are vestiges of what is supposed to have been a castle. The Gynag riv- ulet runs about six miles southward to the Spey H HA' BURN, a small affluent of Deskford birni, in the parish of Deskford, Banffshire. It washes the base of a mound, called the Ha' hill, about 30 feet long, 18 broad, and 20 high, which is supposed to have been used in the feudal times as a seat of justice. HA' BURN, a small affluent of the Medwin, in the parish of Walston, Lanarkshire. HA' HILL, a mound several acres in area, and about 65 feet high, near Mauldslie castle, in the parish of Carluke, Lanarkshire. It is supposed to be, in a considerable degree, the accumulation of an ancient burial place ; and it now is all covered with large trees, except in a small level part on the top where the last two Earls of Hyndford were buried. HA' HILL, Banffshire. See Ha' Burn. HAAFGRUNIE, a grazing island, about 3 miles in circumference, lying 1 mile south of the southern extremity of Unst in Shetland. HABBIE'S HOW, the scene of Allan Ramsay's ' Gentle Shepherd.' This has been contended by many persons to be a spot on Glencross burn, about 7^ miles south by west of Edinburgh. Towards the upper part of a glen, a small stream falls, from hctween two stunted birches, over a precipitous rock, 20 feet in height, and maccessible on each side of the linn ; and beneath, the water spreads into a small basin or pool. So far the sceneiy exactly corre- sponds with the description in the pastoral : — " Between twa birks, out o'er a little linn, Tiie water fa's, and nialis a singan din ; A pool breast-deep, beneath as clear as glass, Kisses, with easy whirls, the bord'riiig grass" But, though there may be one or two other cointi dents sufficiently close to satisfy an easy critic, the Habbie's How of Glencross is far from being a place like the Habbie's How of the pastoral, — " Where a' the sweets o' spring an' summer grow." The locality is bare, surrounded with marshes, and not in the vicinity of human abodes ; it has scarcely a birch or a shrub, except a solitary stunted thorn or rowan-tree, projecting from a fissure as if dropped by accident from a rock ; it is adorned with not a flower or patch of lively verdure, but only, where the soil is dry, with a few tufts of whins; and it seems never to have claimed connexion with Ramsay, and pro- bably never met the gaze of his eye, or was men- tioned in his hearing. Tytler, the celebrated antiquary, the restorer of HABBIE'S HOW 24 haddingto:n. I Ramsav's fame, and the proprietor of a mansion and an estate in the verv parish of the Glencross Hab- bie's How. had no "difficulty in identifying all the scenery of 'the Gentle Shepherd' with the exquisite landscape in and around the demesne of Newliall, lyint,' near the head of the North Esk, partly within the parish of IVnicuick in Mid-Lothian, and partly within tliat of Linton in Teebles-shire. " While I passed mv infancy at Newhall," says he in his edi- tion of King James' Poems, "near Pentland-hills, where the scenes of this pastoral poem were laid, the seat of Mr. Forbes, and the resort of many of tlie literati at that time, I well remember to have heard Kamsay recite as his own production, different scenes of 'the'Gentle Siiepherd,' particularly the two first, before it was printed." Between the house and the little haugh, where the Esk and the rivulet from the Harbour-Craig meet, are some romantic grey crags at the side of the water, looking up a turn in the glen, and directly fronting the south. Their crevices are filled with birches, shrubs, and copse- wood ; the clear stream purls its way past, within a few yards, l)cfore it runs directly under them; and rojecting beyond their bases, they give complete ield to whatever is beneath, and form the most in- viting retreat imaginable : — " Bene.itli tlio snuth side of a cia?gy bieU], Where crystal springs the haltsoiiie water yiclil." Farther up, the glen widens immediately behind the house, into a considerable green or holm, with the brawling burn, now more quiet, winding among pebbles, in short turns through it. At the head of this " howm," on the edge of the stream, with an aged tliom behind them, are the ruins of an old washing-house ; and the place was so well-calculated for the use it had formerly been applied to, that an- other more convenient one was built about 35 years ago, and is still to be seen : — " A flowery lio«nii between tw.i verdant braes, Where hisses use to wash and spread their claes ; A trotting burnie wimpling through tlie ground; Its cliannel-pebbles shining smooUi aiid round." Still farther up, the burn, agreeable to the descnp- tion in the dialogue of the second scene, the hollow beyond Mary's bower, where the Esk divides it in the middle, and forms a linn or leap, is named the How burn ; a small enclosure above is called the Braehead park; and the hollow below the cascade, with its bathing-pool and little green, its birches, wild shrubs, and variety of natural flowers in sum- mer, its rocks and the whole of its romantic and rural scenery, coincides exactlj' with the description of Habbie's How. Farther up still, the grounds be- yond the How burn, to the westward, called Carlops — a contraction for Carline's Loup — were supposed once to have been the residence of a carline or witch, who lived in a dell, at the foot of the Carlops hill, near a pass between two conic rocks ; from the op- posite points of which she was often observed at nights, by the superstitious and ignorant, bounding and frisking on her broom, across the entrance. Not far from this, on a height to the east, stood a very ancient half-withered solitary ash-tree, near the old mansion-house of Carlops, overhanging a well, with not another of 30 years' standing in sight of it; and from the open grovmds to the south, both it and the glen, with the village and some decayed cottages in it, and the Carline's loups at its mouth, are seen. liamsay may not have observed or referred to this tree ; but it is a curious circumstance that it should be there, and so situated as to complete the resem- blance to the scene, which seems to have been taken from the place :— " Tlie open field ; — a cottage in a glen, An auld wile spinning at the sunny end ; — At a small distance, by a blasted tree, With I'aulded arms, and hall-iaised look ye see, Bauldy his lane." HACKAYOOD BURN, a small tributary of the Clvde, in the parish of Lamington, Lanarkshire. HADDENRIG. See Si>i:ouston. HADDINGTON, a parish, containing a royal burgh of its own name, and tlie hamlets of Abbey and yt. Laurence, in the centre of Haddingtonshire. It is bounded by Aberlady, Athelstaneford, Preston- kirk, Morham, Tester, Bolton, Sal ton, and Gladsmuir. It is of verj^ iiTCgular figure, having a main body of a coffin outline, and, at various points, no fewer than five projections, two of which run respectively north and south to a considerable distance. Exclusive of its projections, it is 6 miles long from east to west, and, on tlie average, 2 or 2 J miles broad; but in- clusive of the projections, it is 8 miles long from north-north-west to south-south-east, and about 7 miles broad. Its superficial area is about 22J square miles. The parish, as a whole, presents a lovely and fascinating landscape. Along the north side of the main body are the soft summits and green declivities of the Garleton bills, frilled down their southern slopes by rows of plantation. Through the middle of the pa)isli from west to east, flows, in beautiful sinuosities, between wooded and variegated banks, and under the shade, now of the town of Haddington, and now of smiling and superb man- sions, with a width generally of from 50 to 56 feet of waters, the river Tyne. All the rest of the dis- trict is a beautifully undulating surface, here almost subsiding into plain, there lifting its grassy eleva- tions up to nearly the height of hills, and every- where exhibiting either luxuriant fields, green mea- dows, thriving plantations, or elegant seats and ornamental lawns and policies. Agriculture is here in its glory, and exults in its highest achievements. Upwards of 9,000 imperial acres are under cultivation ; nearly 1,300 are covered with wood; and only about 250 have been untouched by the hand of culture. All the parish, in fact, is arable, except a few unim- portant patches on the summits of the Garleton-hills. On nearly l,000acres at the western extremity the soil is thin, though mostly covered with profitable plan- tation ; and, in nearly all other parts, it is rich and highly fertile. The climate is temperate, serene, and remarkably salubrious. Nine children of parents who were married in 1657, attained the aggregate age of 738 years, — making tlie average age of each member of the family no less than 82. Yet Had- dington was the first place in Scotland visited by malignant cholera. There are few ruins in the parish. Coal has been sought for, but not found. There is a mineral spring, a weak chalybeate, called Dobson's well, about ^ a mile west of the burgh. The average yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1835 jit £52,225. The assessed property in 1860 was £33,095. A mile and a quarter south of the town stands the mansion of Lennoxlove, anciently called Lethington, the seat of Lord Blantyre. Part of it, consisting chiefly of a square tower, was built by the Giftbrds, and dates high in antiquity, and was a very strong high fortalice. Lethington was the birth-place and residence of John, Duke of Lauderdale, the home of Secretary Maitland and Sir Richard Maitland, and, for a long period, the chief seat of the Lauderdale family. The contemporaiy Duke of York having sarcastically said that, before his first visit to Scot- land, he understood the country to be unimbellished with a sinple park, John, Duke of Lauderdale, piqued by the snrcasm, built, it is said, the fiist HADDINGTON. 25 HADDINGTON. park-wall of Lethington, enclosing an area of more than a square mile, in the space of six weeks, and raised it to the massive height of 12 feet. Three quarters of a mile south of Lethington or Lennox- love, is the mansion of Coalston, the seat of the family of Brown, the most ancient in the parish, and now the property of that family's i-epresentative, the Marquis of Dalhousie. Three quarters of a mile east of Lennoxlove is Monkrig, a beautiful modern mansion built by the Honourable Captain Keith, E.N. On the south bank of the Tyne, f of a mile east of the town of Haddington, is the mansion of Amisfield, the property of the Earl of Wemyss and March ; and a mile east of it, is Stevenson, the seat of Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. On the north of the Tyne, and west of Haddington, are the mansions of Clerkington, Lethem, Alderston, and Huntington — the first on the banks of the river, and the rest at intervals northward. On Byres, or Byrie-hill, one of the summits of the Garletons, stands, prominent in its position, and distinctly visible from Edinlnirgh, a monument to the memory of the celebrated Earl of Hopetoun, one of the heroes of the Peninsular war. Haddington, in the suburb of Gilford-gate, contests the honour of having given birth to the Reformer Knox; but is somewhat sternly resisted in this claim by the village of Gifford. The parish is traversed across one of its projections by the North British railway, and has a branch of that railway within itself to the burgh. It is also intersected 6 miles from west to east by the great road between Edinburgh and the east of England ; and it sends off a road to North-Berwick, and is cut in all direc- tions by a profusion of subordinate roads. Popula- tion in 1831, 5,883; in 1861, 5,548. Houses, 948. Haddington is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The charge is collegiate. Patron, the Earl of Hopetoun. Unappropriated teinds, £775 lis. 7d. First minister's stipend, £343 2s. 2d. ; glebe, £24. Second minister's stipend, £333 6s. 9d.; glebe, £25. The parish church is supposed to have been built in the 12tli or 13th cen- tury, and was last repaired in 1811, and contains 1,260 sittings. There is also a church connected with the Establishment, called St. John's; but it is not at present used for pulilic worship. There are two Free churches, — St. John's, with 862 sittings, and Knox's, with 385 sittings; and the sum raised in 1865 in connexion with the former was £349 lis. 5d., — in connexicjn with the latter, £156 Is. lOd. There are two United Presbyterian churches, the East and the AVest, with respectively 549 and 450 sittings. There are also an Independent chapel, with 240 sittings, an Episcopalian chapel, with 279 sittings, and a Roman Catholic place of meeting ; and there were formerly places for Methodists and for Baptists. There is a grammar or burgh school, with English, mathematical, and classical depart- ments, conducted and supported in the usual man- ner of burgh schools. There is also a parochial school, with an attached salary of £55, and about £125 fees; and there are a ladies' boarding and day school, a very efficient ragged school, the public subscriptions to which in 1855 amounted to £142 16s. 5d., and several private schools. Haddington was ot old the seat of a deanery, and of the synodical meetings of the diocese. The par- ish seems, through the medium of its town, to have derived its name from a Saxon chief of the name of Haden, who sat down here on the banks of the Tyne, after the commencement of the Scoto-Saxon period; and its origin is so ancient as to hie untrace- able amid the obscurities of that early epoch, and the ages which followed. At the accession of David I. to the throne, it stands clearly out to the view as a defined parish; and both then and aftenvards, was of much larger extent than at present. Till the year 1674, it comprehended a considerable part of Athelstaneford ; and till 1692, it comprised also a large portion of Gladsmuir. The ancient church was dedicated to the Virgin Mar}^ — the common patron of similar establishments in the circumjacent district. About the year 1134, David I. granted it — along with its chapels, lands, tithes, and every thing belonging to it in the parish — to the priory of St. Andrews. Soon after he gave to the prioiy, as a largess or endowment on this church, the lands of Clerkington on both sides of the Tyne, a toft in the town, and the tithes of the mills and of all produce within the parish. All these grants were confirmed by David's grandsons, Malcolm IV. and William, as well as by the successive bishops of St. Andrews ; and they occasioned the church of Haddington to be held by the St. Andrews priory, and served by a vicai-, till the Reformation. — Connected with the church, and within the limits of the parish, were six chapels. At the hamlet to which it has bequeathed its name, was a chapel dedicated to St. Lawrence. In the town or its immediate vicinity were four chapels,^one dedicated to St. Martin, — one dedi- cated to St. Catherine, — one dedicated to St. Ken- tigeni, — and one, probably the property of the Knights Templars, dedicated to St. John. And there was a chapel within the barony of Penston, which, previous to the erection of Gladsmuir parish, lay within the limits of Haddington. At the Re- formation, the property of all these chapels, with that of the church to which they were attached, be- longed, as part of the immense possessions of the priory of St. Andrews, to James Stewart, the noto- rious Earl of Moray, the bastard brother and the minister of Mary of Scotland. The possessions were soon after usurped by the Earl of Morton, during the period of his regency; and when he was put to death for his participation in the murder of Darnley, they were forfeited to the Crown. Esme, Duke of Lennox, the cousin and favourite of James VI. now obtained the whole, as a temporal lordship, from the King. In 1615, Thomas, the first Earl of Hadding- ton, purchased the Haddington portion of the lord- ship — consisting of the patronage and property and emoluments of the church and its chapels — from Ludovic the son of Esme; and, in 1620, obtained from the King a confirmation of his purchase. In the 18th century, the patronage and property were transferred, by another purchase, to Charles, the first Earl of Hopetoun ; and they have since continued in the possession of his descendants. From the period of the utter curtailment of ecclesiastical rev- enue at the Reformation till the year 1602, the church of Haddington, the chapel of St. ilartin, and the church of Athelstaneford, were all served by one minister. The chapel of St. Martin now received an incumbent of its own ; but, at the expiry of his period of service, it was abandoned; and, at the pre- sent day, it still exhibits, on the east side of the sub- urb of Nungate, in its external walls, a memorial of an age of superstitious substitution of supernumerary churches and tedious ceremonials, for the simple appliances and spiritual duties of true religion, in 1633, the church of Haddington was appointed one of the 12 prebends of the chapter of Edinburgh ; and, in 1635, the magistrates of the town concurred with the Bishop of Edinburgh in pronouncing the necessity of it having for itself not one minister only but two; and they assumed the responsibility of providing for a second minister. The magistrates, naturally enough, thought themselves entitled to the patronage of the additional ecclesiastical office; but— resisted in their claim by the patron of tlie HADDINGTON. 26 HADDINGTON. parish as settled at the Reformation— they pushed their case first before the College of Justice, and next up to the House of Peers, and, suHenng a de- feat ill both appeals, raised a precedent which has been a faiiious one in Scottish law for the settlement of Riiuilar questions. ,. , , Additional to the ecclesiastiOBl edifices which have been enumerated, Haddington had two monastic es- tablishments,— one in the burgh, and one in the vil- lage of Abbev. The former, a large and venerable structure, biiilt apparently in the ISth or 13th cen- tury, and still in considerable preservation— was a moiiastery of Franciscan or Grey Friars. Lord Seaton appears to have been one of its principal benefactors, and, in 1441, was buried within its walls. 'J'hc strictly monastic part of the edifice was defaced by Edward 1. Even the choir and the transept of the church are now in a somewhat dilapidated state; but the square tower, 9U feet high, is still entire ; and the western part of the cross, fitted up in a superior style in 1811, is the present parish church. On ac- count of the beauty of its structure, and because the limits constantly exhibited at night from its lofty windows were "seen at a great distance, this fine edifice was anciently called " Lucerna Lau- donise," the lamp of Lothian. The length of the fabric, from east to west, is 210 feet; the length of the transept or cross, from north to south, is 110 feet ; and the breadth of the nave is 62 feet. — The convent at the village of Abbey, was an establish- ment of Cistertian nuns. Only a very small frag- ment of one of the walls now remains. The edifice was founded, in 1178, by Ada, Countess of North- umberland, and mother of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion ; and it was dedicated by her to the Virgin, and endowed with extensive and valuable posses- sions. The lands called the Nunlands, now Hunt- ington, and the churches of Athclstaneford and Crail, with their titlies, were also the property of this con- vent. In 1292, Alicia the prioress, did homage, with her nuns, to Edward I. In 1296, Eve, the successor of Alicia, submitted to the same overbearing prince, and, in return, had a restoration of her rights. Li 1358, the convent was strongly menaced, and well nigh swept away, by an inundation of the Tyne; and, according to the absurd legend of the times, it was preserved by the intervention, through means of the prioress, of a wooden image of the Virgin Mary. In 1359, it was more tangibly conserved and benefited by an inspeximus charter from the Bishop of St. Andrews, which, while speaking of the convent as near the hostile border and exposed to depredation, recognises its privileges, and confirms its rights. In 1471, the lairds of Tester and Makerston, provoked to cupidity by its wealth and its fine manors, unceremoniously and rapaciously seized their lands of Nunhopes. The prioress had no resource but to appeal to the civil power; and, failing to get from them a disgorgement of their prey by command of the privy-council, she eventually procured the interference of parliament to commit their persons and restore her property. But such was the anarchy of the age that, in order to protect their granges from the depredations of the aristo- cratic robbers in their vicinity, the nuns had to get them fortified, and, in particular, had a fortalice erected on their establishment at Nunraw. In 1548, the Estates held a parliament in the convent, and there adopted their resolution to send their infant l^ueen to France. In 1561, the prioress, Elizabeth Hepburn, in obedience to the new authorities estab- lished by the Reformation, gave a statement of her estate preliminary to the suppression of the convent ; and she reported the number of nuns to be 18, and the revenues to be £308 17s. 6d., besides 7 chal ders, and 11 bolls of wheat. The property was con- ferred by the Queen on her secretary, William Mait- land of Lethington, the son of Sir Richard, and afterwards was converted into a temporal lordship in favour of the family of Lauderdale. HADDINGTON, a royal burgh, a town of great antiquity, and the metropolis of East Lothian, is })lea- santly situated within a bend of the Tyne, and on the left bank of the river, surrounded on all sides by a landscape rich in the beauties of nature and of art, and overlooked at a little distance to the north by the soft sylvan declivity of the Garleton hills. It stands on the great road between the metropolitan cities of Scotland and England, 4J miles south-east of the Longniddry junction of the North British railway, 11 miles by road south-west of Dunbar, and 17f by railway east of Edinburgh. Though com- paratively small in bulk, and though, for a long time, mean or indifferent in appearance, it is now one of the neatest, best-built, and most cheerful towns of Scotland, everywhere clean and tidy in its streets, generally tasteful and frequ^ently elegant in its buildings, and all around gay and joyous in the character of its immediate environs. Approaching it eastward from Edinburgh, the traveller passes on both hands a considerable number of villas, enters a straggling outskirt of the town called the Gallow green, and at the termination of this, finds the road he is pursuing joined on the north side by the road from Aberlady, and directly opposite on the south side by the road from Pencaitland. Here the town properly commences; and hence stretches the High- street — called in the early part of its progress the West port — due east over a distance of 600 yards, forming the most conspicuous part of the burgh. About 270 yards from the commencement or western end of High-street, another important thoroughfare, bearing the mean of Back-street, goes off at a veiy sharp angle from its north side, and continues slowly to diverge from it till, at its termination 330 yards from its commencement, it and the High-street are about 80 yards asunder. The line or lines of building between them are, in three places during the progress of Back-street, cloven by connecting thoroughfares. Across the termination or east end of the two streets, and at right angles with them, runs a street called Hardgate, 700 yards in length, stretching northward and southward a considerable way beyond the slender latitude formed by the east- ward and westward streets. All the three streets we have described have the graceful property — so commonly awanting in the thoroughfares of old towns — of being straight. But from Hardgate, nearly opposite the end of High-street, a thorough- fare goes off eastward to the Tyne and to the suburb of Nungate ; and this, though only about 210 yards in length, makes two considerable divergencies before reaching the bridge. The town thus far has nearly the figure of a Latin cross, the transverse or inter- secting part running north and south ; and in point of fact it deviates from a close resemblance to this figure mainly by sending off northward from Back- street, and nearly parallel to Hardgate, a thorough- fare called, over most of its length of 370 yards, Newton port, but bearing, toward its extremity, the fantastic and unaccountable name of AVhisky row. Connected with the town by a bridge of 4 arches, stands the suburb of Nungate. This, from a point opposite the parallel of back-street, stretches southward along the bank of the river over a distance of 340 yards ; and chiefly consists of two parallel streets lengthways — one of which, or that next the river, bears tlie name of Gifford gate— and three brief intersecting streets. The entire arrangement of town and suburb, un- HADDINGTON. HADDINGTON. usually good though it is in itself, receives from its relative position to the T3'ne material aid in convey- ing an agreeable impression. The river, when ap- proaching, flows in a northerly direction on a line with Gallow green, or the western extremity of the town ; but when at 560 yards distance, it debouches in a beautiful cui-v^e, and, with two slight bendings, flows due east, till it passes the whole town, and is on a line with Nungate ; then making another graceful turn, it flows slightly to the west of north, washing both the town and the suburb, till it passes the northern extremity of both ; and immediately it once more goes suddenly and beautifully round one- fourth of the compass, and pursues its course to the east. — The High-street is a spacious and handsome thoroughfare, with excellent high houses, some ele- gant and even imposing edifices, and a good array of shops. Back-street, though not so spacious or extensive, presents no unpleasing picture to the eye, and was formerly the busy scene of the spirited weekly grain market. In Hardgate also, and its ex- tremities or continuations northward and southward, called respectively the North port and the South port, are numerous good houses, many of them al- together or comparatively new, and two or three in the style and with the accompaniments of villas. The various thoroughfares enjoy the luxury- — so scantily foiuid in provincial towns, and so indicative of tasteful and opulent imitation of metropolitan comforts — of side-pavements ; and they are like- wise lighted up at night with gas. At the west end of the town stand the County buildings, erected in 1833, from a design by Mr. Burn of Edinburgh, at a cost of £5,500. They are in the old English style of architecture, spacious and elegant; built chiefly of stone procured near the town, but, in the front, mainly with polished stone brought from Fife ; and they contain the sherifl" and justice-of-peace court-rooms, and offices and apartments for various functionaries connected with the county. In Court-street, immediately east of the County buildings, stands the Com exchange, erected in 1854, at the cost of upwards of £2,400. It measures, within walls, 128 feet in length, and 50 feet in loreadth. Its front elevation, though somewhat plain, is massive and not inelegant ; its interior arrangement is commodiously adapted to the joint uses of seller and buyer; and its roof closely resembles that of a railway terminus, and has a light pleasant appearance. At the point where High-street and Back-street separate stand the Town's buildings; containing the council-room, the assembly-room, and the county and burgh jail ; erected at various dates and in successive parts, but producing an embellishing eflFect upon the burghal landscape, and now surmounted by a hand- some and highly ornamental spire, erected in 1831 from a design by Mr. Gillespie Graham, and raising aloft its tapering summit to the height of 150 feet. Near the west end of the town are the gas works. On a line with Hardgate, or the South port, at a point in the eastward course of the Tyne south of the town, a bridge of one arch, called Waterloo bridge, spans the river, and opens the way to Sal- ton. St. John's church, erected in 1838, is a very pleasing Gothic edifice. But the principal structure, combining the attractions of antiquity, Gothic mag- nificence, and bulky grandeur, is the pile, already noticed in our view of the parish, as the church of the ancient monastery. This is finely situated on an open area south-east of the body of the town, skirted by the gently flowing Tyne. Around is the spacious cemetery of the parish, embosoming the remains of much departed worth ; and, in parti- cular, those of the devout and illustrious John Brown, whose excellencies long shed a lustre over the town, and whose pious and useful writings have embalmed him in the aff'ections of the truly Chris- tian of every denomination. Within the edifice it- self are a vault containing the remains of John, Duke of Lauderdale, as well as those of various members of his family, and an imposing monument, 24 feet long, 18 broad, and 18 high, consisting of two compartments supported by black marble pillars with white alabaster capitals of the Corinthian order, and containing, in the one, full length alabaster figures of Lord-chancellor Thirlestane and his lady in a recumbent posture, and, in the other, similar figures of John, Earl of Lauderdale, and his Countess. At the southern extremity of Gitford-gate is a field which those who claim the reformer Knox as a native of Haddington, point out as having been at- tached to the house in which he was born. At the north-east extremity of Nungate stand the ruins of St. Martin's chapel, surrounded by a cemetery. Haddington, particularly in its sirburb of Nungate, was for some time the seat of a considerable manu- factory of coarse woollen fabrics. During the pe- riod of Cromwell's usurpation, an English company, in which the principal partner was a Colonel Stan- field, expended a very large sum of money in estab- lishing the manufactory ; and, for this purpose, piuchased some lands which formerly belonged to the monaster)^, erected fulling mills, dyeing houses, and other requisite premises, and imposed on the whole the name of Newmills. After the Restoration, the company, for their encourage- ment, were, by several Scottish acts of parliament, exempted from some taxes, and Colonel Stanfield was raised to the honour of knighthood. But after his death the affairs of the company going into dis- order, and throwing embarrassment upon the manu- facture. Colonel Charteris purchased their lands and houses, and, in honoirr of the very ancient family in Nithsdale from whom he was descended, changed the name from Newmills to Amisfield. In 1750, a company was established, and contributed a large sum, to revive the manufacture ; but the trade proving unsuccessful, they dissolved. Soon after their failure, another company was formed, but proved equally unsuccessful in their efforts. Had- dington would hence seem destined — though from what actual cause is not very apparent— not to par- take the benefits, or become the scene, of any such stirring movements as, in peaceful times, have rapidly raised not a few hamlets and villages of Scotland to the condition of thriving andpopulouB towns. At present it has only one small woollen manufactory; yet it conducts a considerable trade in wool, is the centre of mercantile supply to an ex- tensive and wealthy agricultural district, and has an iron-forge, a coach-work, 2 breweries, a distillery, and establishments for the tanning and currying of leather, and for preparing bone-dust and rape- cake for manure. But its chief trading importance consists in its being a leading market for the expo- sure and sale of agricultural produce. Its fairs have gone into desuetude ; but its weekly market, held on Friday, attracts, on the one hand, the large and veiy intelligent body of East Lothian farmers as sellers, and a vast number of corn-dealers and others from Edinburgh, Leith, and more distant places as purchasers, and is always — but especially at the most suitable seasons for agricultural traflSck- ing — a very stirring and important scene. In the morning, butter, eggs, and poultry are discussed ; at noon and half-an-hour past it, oats and barley are exposed ; and at one o'clock, wheat — East L<3thian wheat, the primest produce of the kingdom — challenges attention. As a wheat market, it is HADDINGTON, 2S HADDINGTON. probably the first in Scotland ; and, at all events, is, as a market for general agricultural produce, ri- valled in the south-east counties only by Edinburgh and Dalkeith. A large cattle-fair is held on a Fri- day in April, which is fixed by the East Lothian Agricultural society, at which some prime fat cattle are sold. A seooiid cattle market is held on the Friday preceding the Edinburgh All-hallow fair. Haddington was atone time the seat of a circuit justiciary court, but now sends all its justiciary business" to Edinbiugh. It is the seat, every Mon- day and Thursdav, during session, of the county- courts of the sheiitt'; eveiy Thursday, of a sheriff small debt court ; on the second Tuesday of every month, of a justice of peace court ; on the first Tuesday of May and the last Tuesday of October, of a meeting of "justices for granting publicans' cer- tificates; and on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August, and the last Tuesday of October, of a general quarter sessions. Excellent facilities of com- munication are enjoyed by means of the North Bri- tish railway. Tlie principal inns of the town are the George", the 8tar, the Black Bull, the Crown, the Britannia, and the Railway. The town has a savings' bank, a number of insurance agencies, and branch-offices of the Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Co.'s Bank, the Commercial Bank of Scotland, and the City of Glasgow Bank. It is also the seat of the United East Lothian Agricul- tural society, the new Agricultural club of East Lothian, the East Lothian horticultural society, and the ancient fraternity of gardeners of East Lothian. It has likewise a curlinf; club, a mechanics' school of arts, a museum of scientific specimens, a public reading-room, a presbytery library, a parochial library, a subscription library, a town-libraiy origi- nally founded in a bequest of books from the Rev. John Gray of Aberlady, and also a town and countiy library. It is also the depot or head-quarters of the itinerating libraries, devised for the enlighten- ment and moral cultivation of the towns, villages, and parishes of East Lothian by the late philanthropic Samuel Brown, the worthy off'shoot of the venerable John Brown. Of benevolent and religious institu- tions, there are a dispensary, — a society for females for the relief and instruction of tlie aged, poor, and sick, — the East Lothian society for propagating the knowledge of Christianity, — and the East Lothian Bible society, probably the earliest organized in Scotland. Prior to the date of the burgh reform act, the Town-council of Haddington, according to an act of the convention of royal burghs passed in 1 665, con- sisted of 16 merchants' and 9 trades' councillors. The number of council remains, as formerly, 25 ; and they are elected according to the provisions of the burgh reform act. The magistrates are a pro- vost, 3 bailies, a treasurer, and a dean-of-guild. The council nominate a baron-bailie of the suburb of Nungate, and another of a portion of the parish of Gladsmuir which holds feu of the burgh; but neither of these functionaries holds baron-bailie courts. The magistrates have jurisdiction over the whole royalty, and hold a weekly court in which, assisted by the town-clerk, they try civil causes. They are in the practice also of trjnng criminal causes brought be- fore them by the procurator-fiscal of the burgh ; and they maintain order in the town, by imposing sum- marily fines not exceeding 5 shillings, for offences in matters of police. The sheriff" of the county ex- ercises a cumulative authority with them withiii the royalty. The dean-of-guild and his council judge of all questions of boundaries and disputed marches, and must be consulted previous to the erection of any new building. The magistrates have the ap- pointment of the town-clerk, the fiscal, the gaoler and other burgh-officers, and of the burgh-school- masters. There is no guildry in Haddington ; but there are merchant-burgesses, who have a fund called the guildry fund, devoted to charitable pur- poses, from which they generally distribute about £25 a-year. The fees of entry are, — to a stranger £10, — to an apprentice £6 Ls. 2d., — to children of burgesses £2 13s. 4d. There are nine incorporated trades, — hammermen, wrights, masons, weavers, fleshers, shoemakers, bakers, tailors, and skinners; all of them, except the weavers, enjoying the ex- clusive privilege of exercising their crafts withiii burgh. The property of the town consists of lands, mills, houses, feu-duties, customs and market-dues, and fees on the entry of burgesses. The debt at Michaelmas 1832, was £6,901 6s. 3d.; contracted chiefly in the erection of a new butcher market at the cost of upwards of £2,000, — in the expenditure of £1,500 upon the church and manse, and of £2,000 upon the spire and renovation of the town-house, and of £1,500 in an unsuccessful search for coal on the lands of Gladsmuir. The income of the town in 1831-2 was £1,422 16s. 3d.; in 1860-1, £1,173 odds Municipal constituency in 1862, 188. Haddington, inclusive of larger space than the municipal buigh, but all within the parish, unites with Dunbar, Jed- burgh, Lauder, and North Berwick, in sending a member to parliament. Parliamentary constituency in 1862. 208. Population of the municipal burgh in 1841, 2,786; in 1861,3,013. Houses, 480. Popula- tion of the parliamentary burgh in 1861, 3,897 Houses, 597. Haddington was, at a very early period, a ro3'^al burgh ; and in the charter of confirmation and de novo damns of James VI., dated 30th January, 1624, by which it now holds its privileges and property, record is made of its great antiquity, and of ancient charters of the town having been lost or destroyed during the international wars. The earliest recorded notice of it exhibits it to view in the 12 th century as a demesne town of the Scottish king. David I. possessed it as his burgh, with a church, a mill, and other appurtenances of a manor ; yet, so far as docu- mental evideuLC is concerned, he does not appear to have had a castle in its vicinit}'. Ada, the daughter of the Earl of Warren, received it, in 1139, as a regal dower, on her mamage with Earl Henry, the son of David, and the prince of Scotland ; and, till her decease in 1178, this mother of kings, in other matters than the founding of the C'istertian nunnery in its neighbourhood, seems to have been attentive to its interests. William the Lion now inherited it as a demesne of the crown ; and appears — though no royal castle is yet spoken of in the place — to have sometimes made it his residence. In 1180, William, supported by his brother, Earl David, and by many clergymen and a vast assemblage of laity, heard here and decided a tumultuous though unimportant civil controversy between the monks of Melrose and Richard Morville, the constable of Scotland. In 1191, the same King affianced at Haddington his daughter Isobel to her second husband. In 1198, the town became the birth-place of Alexander II., the son of William. During the reigns of David 1., Malcolm IV., and William the Lion, Haddington seems to have luxuriated in the comforts of peace and the smiles of royal favour. It was first involved in the miseries of war, after Alexander II. had taken part with the English barons against their unworthy sovereign ; and in 1216, it was burnt by King John of England during his incursion into the Lothians. In 1242, on occasion of a royal tournament held at the town, and in revenge of his having overthrown Walter, the chief of the family of Bisset, I'atrick, HADDINGTON. 29 HADDINGTON. Earl of Athole, was assassinated within its walls. As the town, after being reduced to ashes by John, had been hastily rebuilt of wood, it was, a second time, in 1244, destroyed by the flames. But, at that period, all the towns and cities of Scotland were constructed chiefly or wholly of wood, and covered with thatch; and when we learn from For- dun that Stirling, Roxburgh, Lanark, Perth, Forfar, Montrose, and Aberdeen, were all burnt at the same time as Haddington, we can hardly believe — though several historians concur in telling us so — that Had- dington, on this occasion, owed its conflagration to accident. The town, though formally demanded, in 1293, by Edward I., of John Baliol, does not seem to have suffered much from the wars of the succes- sion. In 1355-6, Edward III., in revenge of the seizure of Bei^wick by the Scottish troops during his absence in France, making a devastating incur- sion over the whole country south of Edinburgh, Haddington fell a prey to his fury, and was a third time reduced to ashes. This disaster happening about the beginning of February, it was many years afterwards remembered by the name of ' the burnt Candlemas.' In April 1548, the year after the fatal battle of Pinkie, the English, under Lord CTrej', took pos- session of Haddington, fortified it, and left in it a garrison of 2,000 foot and 500 horse, under Sir Jolm Wilford. The Scots were, at the time, so much dispirited, that this garrison ravaged the country to the very gates of Edinburgh. But Andrew de Mont- alembert, Sieur D'EssS, the French general, having landed at Leith on the 16th of June, at the head of 6,000 foreign troops, composed of French, Germans, and Italians, in concert with a force of 5,000 Scotch troops, under Arran, drove the English within the fortifications, and laid siege to the town. "Wilford, the governor, made a gallant defence, and even so out-manoeuvred the Frenchman's acti^aty, as, in spite of him, to receive into the town from Berwick a reinforcement of men and a supply of provisions. While D'Esse maintained the siege, and environed the Cistertian nunnery at the village of Abbey with his camp, the meeting of the Estates of parliament in that edifice, which we noticed in our ecclesiastical sketch of the parish, took place on 17th Jul}-. As the siege of Haddington continued, and both attack and defence grew increasingly spirited, the vicinity- became the principal theatre of war between the two nations. Sir Thomas Palmer, at the head of 1,500 horse, made an attempt to throw supplies into the town; but was repulsed, with the loss of 400 prisoners. Admiral Lord Clinton, brother of Somer- set the protector of England, was now directed to draw the attention of the Scots from the siege by menacing their coasts; while Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbuiy, was sent to reinforce and conquer at the head of 22,000 men. The admiral, though repulsed at different points where he attempted a landing, achieved his main object of distract- ing the attention of the besiegers of Haddington ; while the Earl of Shrewsbury raised the siege, sup- plied tlie garrison with every necessarj" and an addi- tional force of 400 horse, and then marched to Mus- selburgh to look into intrenchments which D'Esse had suddenly thrown up for his army. But he in vain attempted to draw the wary Frenchman from his camp ; and becoming tired of his sentinelry, marched off" with his troops, burned Dunbar and other places in his route, and departed into England. D'Esse now resolved to attempt Haddington by a coup de main. The enterprise was conducted with so much secrecy and adroitness, that the English advanced guards were slain, and the has court before the east gate was gained, before the garrison was alarmed. The assailants were employed in breaking open this gate, when a soldier — who a few days before had deserted from D'Esse's camp— fired upon them a piece of artillery which killed many of them and threw the rest into confusion ; while a party sallied out through a private postern, and made such a furious onset with spears and swords that few of the assailants who had entered the bas court escaped slaughter. D'Esse, in June 1549, was succeeded in the command of the foreign auxiliaries, and in the prosecution of measures for the capture of Haddington, by the Chevalier De Thermes, who brought over with him from France a reinforcement of 1,000 foot, 100 cmrassiers, and 200 horse. His first act was to build a fort at the sea-port of Aber- lady, to straiten the garrison by cutting off from them all supplies by sea. Wilford, reduced to ex- tremity from want of provisions, and informed that a supply had arrived at Dunbar, marched out at the head cf a strong detachment, in order, if possible, to cut his way to the supply and convey it to Had- dington; but he was attacked by a large body of the French troops, overpowered by numbers, and, after an obstinate resistance, during which most of his detachment were hewn down, was taken prisoner. The English now found the tenure of Haddington impracticable, on account at once of the distant and inland situation of the town, of the determination of the French commander at all hazards and at any cost to take it, and of the appearance among the gar- rison of that fell, insidious, and inconquerable foe, the plague; and they resolved to contend no longer for its possession. The Earl of Rutland determined, however, that neither soldiers nor military stores should fall into the hands of the Scots or their auxi- liaries; and, marching into Scotland at the head of 6,000 men, he entered Haddington in the night, and, on the 1st of October, 1549, safely conducted all the soldiers and artilleiy to Berwick. Of the fortifica- tions of Haddington not a vestige now remains, ex- cept a few portions of the old town-wall. In 1598, Haddington was a fourth time consumed by fire. The calamity is said to have been occa sicned by the imprudence of a maid-servant, in plac- ing a screen covered with clothes too near the fire of a room during night. In commemoration of the event, and as a means of preventing its recurrence, the magistrates made a law, that a crier should go along the streets of the town every evening during the winter months, and, after tolling a bell, recite some admonitory rhjones. This unusual ceremony got the name of " Coal an' can'le," and still con- tinues to be observed during winter. The rhymes recited are sufficiently rude; but, in connexion with the fact of Haddington having so often and severely suftered from fire, they are not without interest : " A' guid men's servants where'er ye be, Keep coal an' can'le for charitie! Baitli in your kitchen an' your h.a'. Keep weel your fires whate'er beta' ! In bakehouse, brewliouse, barn, and byre, I Tvai-n ye a' keep weel your fire ! For often times a little spark Brings niony hands to mickle wark! Ye nourrices that hae bainis to keep, See tliat ye t'a' nae o'er sound asleep, For losing o' your guid renoun, An' banishing o' this barrous toun! 'Tis for your sakes that I do crj- : Tak' warning by your neighbours bye ! " Haddington gives the title of Earl, in the peerage of Scotland, to the descendants of the Hamiltons of Innerwick, the remote kinsmen of the ducal family of Hamilton. In 1 606, Sir John Ramsay, brother of George Lord Ramsay of Dalhousie, and the chief protector of James YI. from the conspiracy of the Earl of Gowrie, was created Viscount Haddington HADDINGTONSHIRE. 30 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ind Lord Ramsay of Bams; in 1615, he was raised to a place among the peers of England, by the titles of Earl of llolderness and Baron Kingston-upon- Thames; but dviiig, in 1625, without issue, he left all his honours "to be disposed of at the royal will either as forgotten toys or as the award of future as- pirants. In 1627, Tlioin.is Hamilton of Priestfield — who was eminent as a lawyer, and had become Lord- president of the Court of Session, and Secretl-55 and 1856-60. The number of persons confined in Haddington jail within the year end- ing 30th June, 1860, was 191; the average dura- tion of the confinement of each was 25 days ; and the net cost per head was £26 15s. 3d. Twenty-one of the parishes are assessed for the poor, and three unassessed. The number of registered poor in the year 1851-2 was 1,380; in the year 1860-1, 1,318. The number of casual poor in 1851-2 was 582 ; in 1860-1, 418. The sum expended on the registered poor in 1851-2 was £7,600; in 1860-1, £9.596. The sum expended on the casual poor in 1851-2 was £319; in 1860-1, £261. The assessment in 1854, on a real rental of £185,325 16s. 4d. was £950 for police, £250 for rogue-money, and £298 15s. 7d. for prisons. The valued rental in 1674 was £168,873 Scots; and the annual value of real property, in 1861-2, minus railways, was £264,475. Population in 1801,29,986; in 1811, 31,050; in 1821,35,127- in 1831,36,145; in 1841, 35,886; in 1861, 37,634' Males in 1861, 17,854; females, 19,780. Inhabited houses in 1861, 6,802 ; uninhabited, 429 ; building, 46. When the Romans, in the first centuiy, invaded Scotland, the great tribe of the British Ottadiui mhabited the whole lowlands of East-Lothian. The topographical nomenclature, tlie hill-forts, the caves, the weapons of war, the ornaments, the modes of sepulture, which have all been investigated, are evidence of the British descent of the original settlers, and of the genuine Celticism of their speech. The abdication of the Roman government left them in the quiet possession of the country. Neither the congenerous Picts beyond the Forth, nor the Scots in Ireland, disturbed their repose. At the end of a century, however, they were taught their insecurit)'^ by the irruption of a Teutonic people, who came from the settlement of a kingdom on the south of the Tweed, to seek on the banks of the Tyne an en- largement of their territories. The Saxons, after having obtained the ascendency, were occasionally, after the battle of Drumnechton, annoyed by incur- sions of the Picts ; they were next, after the sup- pression of the Pictish dominion, overpowered by tlie Scots ; and eventually, in 1020, they and their territory Avere ceded by their Northumbrian superior to the Scottish king. During almost a century, the Scots had here, as elsewhere, undisturbed domination. In the reigns of David I., Malcolm IV., and William the Lion, the town of Haddington and its environs were special objects of royal attention and favour. Except during the devastating inroad of John of England in 1216, Haddingtonshire suflfered little from foreign or domestic hostilities till the wars of the succession. In 1296, the heroic resistance of the castle of Dunbar, and the battle fought under its walls, if they did not protect Scotland from Edward l."s usurping interference, showed him at least the bold bearing and the indomitable spirit of its people. In 1298, when the enterprises of the patriotic Wal- lace dared and taunted Edward again to subdue the kingdom, the vigorous resistance of the castle of Dirleton, combined with the subsequent dearly-won victory on the field of Falkirk, so shook the self-pos- session of the invader that he afterwards penetrated to the utmost verge of Moray before he could think himself secure as the self-constituted superior of Scotland. From the date of the battle of Bannockburn, or the early part of the 14th century, till the year 1435, the history of Haddingtonshire — an almost continu- ous narrative of warlike enterprises and machina- tions and miseries — is nearly identical with that of the Earls of Dunbar, — a full outline of which is sketched in the article Dunbar; and even after 1 435, it presents but a gleaning of events additional to the bulky ones detailed in that article, and some of limited importance noticed in the article Had- dington. The forfeiture of the powerful family who had all but dragged the county at their heels, nearly " frightened it from its propriety." Several of its landholders, who formerly held under the su- periority of the Earls of Dunbar, now became tenants in chief of the King; and others placed themselves un- der the immediate protection, and swelled the retinue and the array, of the potent family of Douglas. In 1446, some sensation was produced by the rebellious broils of the Hepburns and the Homes for the liti- gated spoils of the forfeited estates. The profligacy, the artifice, and the turbulence of the Dulie of Al- bany, who obtained from his father James II. the earldom of Dunbar, with all its jurisdictions, de- stroyed the peace and imperilled the safety of the whole county. One of the first eff'ects was the in- citement of hostilities with England. In 1482, an English army, which was introduced by his intrigues, encamped in the very heart of the county. During the long minority of James IV., Patrick, Lord Hailes, and Alexander Home ruled the district as the King's lieutenants, with more than royal power, and so op- pressed and over-reached the inhabitants as to mako the welkin vocal with their groans. But after the HADDO-HOUSE. 37 HALF-MORTON. majority of James IV., and during the reign of James v., the county, as to its domestic affairs, enjoyed quiet. In 1544, the English, on their rctui-n, under the Eirl of Somerset, from the siege of Leith, burned and razed the castle of Seaton, and reduced to ashes the tovs'ns of Haddington and Dunbar. In 1547, the invading army of the protector Somerset, razed the castle of Dunglass, captured the castles of Thorn- ton and Innermck, stained the soil in their progress with several skirmishes, and, prelusive to the vic- tory of Pinkie, defeated a party of the Scottish army at iFallside brae on the confines of Edinburghshire. In 1548, Lord Gray advanced from strong positions in which Somerset, the previous year, had left him on the border, and took the castle of Tester, forti- fied and garrisoned the town of Haddington, and wasted the county by every mode of inveterate hostility. Till March, 1549-50, when the ancient limits of the conterminous kingdoms were restored by a treaty of peace, Haddingtonshire passed under the power of the English, and became the prey of their German mercenaries. Except that Seaton and Dunbar castles afforded a retreat to Mary, the county was little affected by the turbulencies and distrac- tions of her reign; and during the 30 years of civil broils which followed, it seems to have suffered more of mortification than of waste. It had its full share, however, in the devastation and murderous achievements of Cromwell's invasion in 1653; and in that year was the theatre of the great conflict by which he became temporary master of Scotland. See Dunbar No further event of note occurs, ex- cept the battle of Preston, fought in 1745, between Prince Charles Edward and the royal troops. See Prestonpans. HADDO. See Forgue. HADDO-HOUSE, the seat of the Earl of Aber- deen, in the parish of Methlick, 6J miles west- north-west of Ellon, Aberdeenshire. It is a splendid modern mansion, in the Palladian style, built after designs by Baxter of Edinburgh. The predecessor of it was built early in the 17th century, and stood a siege of three days in 1644 by the Covenanting army under the Marquis of Argyle. The policies are of great extent and much beauty ; and within them stands a granite obelisk, erected by the present Earl to the memory of his brother. Sir Alexander Gordon, who fell at Waterloo. HAFTON. See Dunoon. HAGENHOPE BURN, a brook flowing south- westward on the boundary between the parishes of Newlands and Lyne, and falling into Lyne water, at a point about 2 miles above Lyne church, in Peebles-shire. HAGGS, a village in the south corner of the par- ish of Denny, 5 miles from Kilsyth, and 6i miles from Falkirk, Stirlingshire. It stands nearly half- a-mile north of the Forth and Clyde canal, on the road between Kilsyth and Falkirk, near the inter- section of that road by the turnpike between Glas- gow and Stirling. A knid of continuation of it ex- tends nearly a mile along the road to Broomage toll-bar. In 1836, a remarkably neat row of collier cottages was erected at Haggs, terminating at one end in a large building intended as a store ; and in 1840, a handsome place of worship, in connexion with the Established church, and containing about 700 sittings, was erected. This was for some time ecclesiastically a quoad sacra parish church, but is now a chapel of ease. In 1841, the population of the temporary quoad sacra parish was 1,905; and in 1861, the population of the village of Haggs it- -;(4f was 302, exclusive of the adjoining hamlet of tVinkier. HAGGS, Renfrewshire. See Govan. H AILES, the estate of Sir Thomas G. Carmichael, Bart., in the parish of Colinton, 4 miles west of Ed- inburgh. The lands of Hailes anciently belonged in part to the monks of Dunfermline, and in part tc the canons of St. Anthony at Leith ; and they con- stituted parochially a vicarage which boi'e indiffer- ently the name of Hailes md the name of Colinton. Some persons say that the present mansion of Hailes stands on the site of the ancient parish church. There is on the estate a famous quarry of dark grey sandstone, of a slaty structure, easily divisible into flags for pavement and blocks for steps of stairs, while the smaller portions suit well for rubble work. During the year 1825, when the building mania was at its height in Edinburgh, 600 cart-loads of stones were sent daily thither from this quarry, pelding the landlord that year about £9,000 ; but after the mania subsided, the quantity sent daily fell so low as 60 or 70 cart-loads. Contiguous to the quarry is a village which takes from it the name of Hailes Quarry, and has a population of about 160. HAILES (New), a seat on the west side of the parish of Inveresk, about J a mile from the frith of Forth, in the north-east of Edinburghshire. It is famous for having been the residence of Sir David Dalrymple, Lord Hailes, one of the most distin- guished of Scottish historians and antiquaries. The grounds around it are well-wooded and beautifully disposed ; and in the vicinity of the mansion is a column, erected to the memory of the great Earl of Stair. HAILES-CASTLE, a fine old ruin, on a rock on the right bank of the Tyne, in the parish of Pres- tonkirk, Haddingtonshire. It is noted as having been anciently the property of the notorious Earl of Bothwell, the temporary residence of Queen Mary, and the place to which Bothwell conducted her, after seizing her near Linlithgow. HAILES-QUARRY. See Hailes. HAILSTON-BURN, a brook in the parish of Kil- syth, Stirlingshire, noted for its containing blocks of jasper. HAIRLAW, a locality in the parish of Neilston, Renfrewshire, where a battle was fought between Malcolm III. of Scotland, and Donald, Lord of the Isles, in which the latter was beaten and routed. Here is now an artificial reservoir, 72 acres in ex- tent, and 16 feet deep, fed by a stream from Long- Loch. HALBEATH, a post-office village on the eastern border of the parish of Dunfermline, 2 J miles east- north-east of the town of Dunfermline, Fifeshire. Around it are extensive coal-mines. The village has a station on the Dunfermline branch of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. Population, 568. See Dunfekmline. HALBOKN-HEAD. See Holburn-Head. HALEN, a quoad sacra parish, comprising the peninsula of Vaternish, within the quoad civilia parish of Duirinish, in the island of Skye. It was constituted by the Court of Teinds in July, 1847. The church is a government one, under the patron- age of the Crown. Stipend, £120; glebe, £11. The post-town is Dunvegan. HALF-DAVOCH. See Edenkillie. HALF-MORTON, a parish, politically on the south-east border of Annandale, but topographically ntermediate between Annandale and Eskdale, Dum- fries-shire. Its post-town is Canonbie, 5 miles east- north-east of its church. It is bounded on the south-east by England, and on other sides by the parishes of Gretna, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, Middlebie, Langholm, and Canonbie. Its length south-south- eastward is about 5 miles ; and its greatest breadth HALKIRK. 38 HALKIIIK. is about SJ miles. Excepting the lowest spurs of tlie Eskdale hills on the north, and a small patch of ho;; on the south-west, the whole surface partakes tlie beauty and fertility of the terminating plain of Dumfries-shire. One of two principal head-waters of the Sark rises on the noith-western limit, tra- verses the breadth of the parish to its eastern limit, and, being there joined by its sister head-water, traces the boundary of tlie parish southward over a distance of 4 miles. Another stream rises also on the north-west boundary, half-a-mile south of the former, and traverses the parish south-eastward or di i;;onally, over a distance of 4 miles, passing the parTsh church, and falling into the Sark. The IJlack Siirk comes in from the west, — forms for half- a- mile the western boundary - line, — flows tiiroujih the parish for Ij mile, first eastward and next southward, and again, before leaving it, forms for 1 mile the western boundary-line. The banks of all tiie streams are tufted with wood, and fall gently back in carpetings of fine soil and luxuriant vegetation. The principal mansion is Solway bank on the north. The only antiquities are vestiges of three towers. About one-sixth of the population are aggregated into 4 or 5 small hamlets. The principal landowner is Sir John II. ^Maxwell, Bart, of Spnngkell. The valued rental is £972 steriin^. Assessed property in 1860, £3,413. Population in 1831, 646; in 1861, 713. Houses, 129. This parish is in the presbytery of Langholm, and synod of Dumfiies. Patrons, the Crown and the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £140, paid as a voluntary contributiim by the Duke of Buccleuch and the heritors. The parisli cluireh was built in 1744, and enlarged in 1833, and contains 212 sittings. There is a Free church in the parish, with a com- paratively large aitendnnce ; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 wns £82 19s. 3|d. There is an United Presbyterian church at Chapelknowe, | of a mile south of the parish church, built in 1822, and containing 244 sittings.— The district comprehend- ing the present parish of Half-Morton and aViout one-third of the present conterminous parish of Canonbie. formed the ancient parish of Jlorton. About the year 16.50, it was divided into two parts, and the eastern half annexed to Canonbie, and the western half to Wauchope; and Wauchope itself having subsequently suffered annexation to Langholm, Half-Morton followed its fortunes. When this an- nexation took place, the General Assembly ordained that tlie minister should hold both benefices, on condition of his preaching at Half-Morton every fourth Sabbath. The condition came eventually to be forgotten ; and during 12 years previous to 1833, tliere was no public worship connected with the Establishment at Half-Morton. By a temporary arrangement, an assistant minister, whose time should be entirely devoted to the district, was in that year appointed; and in 1836, the arrangement became permanent. HALF-WAY. See Irvixk. HALGREEN. See Caxoxbik. HALHILL. See Glassford. HALHOUSE. See Canonbik. HALIDAY-HILL. See Duxscoi:i:. HALIDEAN. See Bowden. HALIVAILS. See Dlirixish. HALKIRK, a parish, containing a post-oftice vil- lage of its own name, in Caithness-shire. It is bounded by Thurso, Bower, VVatten, Latheron, Kildonan, and Reay. It extends north-north-east- ward from the boundary with Sutherlandshire to a point somewhat north of the centre of Caithness- shire, and measures 24 miles in length, and from 3 to 12 miles in breadth. The surface is prevail- ingly flat, yet comprises several hills which slope gently from their summit to the surrounding plains. On the boundary with Watten, also, about 3 miles south-east of the village of Halkirk, is a hill of con siderable elevation, called Spittal hill, which is green all over, and commands a magnificent map-like view of nearly the whole county, together with the Pent land frith and the Orkneys. About 6,000 acres are under the plough ; about as many more are in pas- ture or meadow; and about 61,000 are moor, moss, or water. The soil of the arable lands is partly clay or loam mixed with moss, and partly gravel* on "a cold rocky bottom. Foise water drains part of the western border; and Thurso water rises on the south-western border, and runs north-eastward and northward through all the interior. There are up- wards of twenty lakes; one of them, the loch of Calder, about 3J miles long and 1 mile broad, — an- other, Lochmore, nearly as large, — and most of the rest comparatively small. " They all abound with excellent trout, and eel of different kinds and sizes. These fishes differ also in colour, according to the nature of the lake where they were spawned. In the lake of Calder, there are trouts which are found no where else in the country, of a reddish beautiful colour, a pretty shape, very fat, and most pleasant eating." Marl is found in the loch of Calder and in one of the other lakes. Limestone is quarried in several places. Flags for flooring and for paving are extensively raised, not only for home use, but for exportation. Ironstone and lead ore are found. The principal landowners are Sir George Sinclair, Bart., Sir P. M. Thriepland Bart., Sinclaii* of Forse, Guthrie of Scotscalder, Home of Langwell, and four others. The principal mansion is that of Sir George Sinclair, Bart. The value of real property, as as- sessed in 1860, was £9,622. Population "in 1831, 2,847; iu 1861, 2,864. Houses. 574. An interesting antiquity is Dirlet- Castle: which see. Another antiquity is the castle of Brawell, sit- uated on an eminence, at a small distance from the river of Thurso. It is a square building of a large area, and wonderfully thick in the walls, which are partly built with clay, partly with clay and mortar mixed, and in some parts with mortar altogether. The stairs and conveyances to the several stories ai-e through the heart of the walls, 'i'hese stories were all floored and vaulted with prodigiously largo stones. A deep, large, well- contrived ditch secures the castle on the north. It has the appearance of having been fortified also with other outworks, sucii as walls, moats, &c. It is not known by whom or when it was built, though tradition says that it was built and inhabited by the Harolds, who came from Denmark, but more immediately from Orkney, where they bore princely sway. A more modern building was begun, close to the river, by one of the Earls of Caithness. The design of this wasmngnificent, and worthy of its princely site; and had it been finished, it Tould, in all appearance, have been one of the most stately and commodious edifices in the North, according to the style of those times. But the work was carried only a few feet above the vaults. Though there were abu7"idance of stones ready at hand, and well-calculatef. for building on any plan, yet, to suit the grandeur and elegance of the design, vast numbers of large freestone were brought from the shore, at the distance- of 8 miles. Over these foundations was erected Wthin the last year, the new mansion of Sir George Sinclair, a handsome edifice in the old Scotch baronial style. Another antiquity is Lochmore castle, situated on the banks of Lochmore, over the efHux of the water of Thurso, and Slid to have been built by a famous sportsman; and still another is Achnavarn castle, a ruin of great HALLADALE. 39 HAMILTON. strength, but of unrecorded origin, near the loch of Calder. There are also in the parish vestiges of two ancient chapels. — The village of Halkirkstands on the northern verge of the parish, on the right hank of Thurso vcater, 7 miles south by east of the town of Thurso. An annual fair is held here on the Tuesday before the 26th of December; and another fair is held on Ruggy-hill, 2 miles distant, on the mutual boundary with Thurso parish and Bower. This parish is' in the presbytery of Caithness, and synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Stipend, £237 18s. 9d.; glebe, £8. Unappropriated teinds, £278 9s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary, £57 10s., with about £15 fees. The parish church was built in 1753, and en- larged in 1833, and contains 756 sittings. There was formerly a chapel of the Royal bounty at Acharainey, containing 403 sittings, but serving also for parts of the parishes of Watten and Reay. There is a Free church of Halkirk, with an attendance of 680; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £189 Os. lOd. There is also a Free church charge of Westerdale, Acharainey, and Halsary,with an aggre- gate attendance of 860 ; and the sum raised in con- nexion with it in 1865 was £161 16s. 7d. Tiiere are twelve non-parochial schools, and two or three friendly societies ; and several of the schools are aided or sup- ported by public bodies. — The present parish of Hal- kirk comprehends the two ancient ecclesiastical dis- tricts of Halkirk and Skinnet. The union of these took place some time after the Reformation. Circu?n- stances make it probable, that Halkirk was no parish at all before the Reformation; but that Skinnet was a stated parish of very early date. " Halkirk, by all I can learn or conjecture," says the writer of the old Statistical Account, "was originally no more than a chaplainry occupied by the Bishop's chaplain, who also served the great family that had one of its seats at Brawell, — a place very near the chapel. Here also the Bishop had one of his seats, within a few yards of the present manse. It was here — as I have it from report — that the Bishop was assassi- nated by a set of ruffians from Harpsdale, — a place belonging to the chaplainry. These savages were the sons of John of Harpsdale, whom the then Earl of Caithness suborned as instruments very fit for the execution of that horrid deed, in revenge of the Bisliop having assessed his lands in the chaplainry with an addition to the chaplain's living. The spot where the chapel formerly stood, and where now the kirk of the two united parishes stands, is a small round hill, in the middle of a large extensive plain. From this spot, as the centre, there is a very gentle rise, almost in every direction, to the surrounding hills. From this circumstance it is more than pro- bable the parish derives its name ; for the rising ground whereon the kirk stands is called Tore-Har- logan, and the kirk, Teaumpul-Harlogan ; and so they retain the original Irish names, though the parish is called by the name of Hacrigg, and more frequently of Halkirk, manifestly [?] a corruption of the original name, Tore-OUagan. Now, laggan, in Erse, signifies ' a low place,' — the lowest in the neiglibourhood, — and tore, 'a mount,' or 'small hill.' As to the name of the other parish, it is sometimes pronounced Skinnet, sometimes Skinite, sometimes Skinilt, sometimes Skinnon, sometimes Skinine ; but I have reason to believe that the real name should be Skiea-Noylte, ' the Wing of the Burn.' " — An extensive poorhouse, intended to serve for a combination of parishes, is at present (September 1855) in course of erection, on the left bank of Thurso water, near the village of Halkirk. HAIjLADALE, a river and a strath, in the north- cast of Sutherlandshire. The strath, together with its hill-screens, forms the Sutherland district of the parish of Reay. The river rises in several head streams, on the lofty uplands on the confines of Kil donan ; and, taking a northerly direction, after a course of 20 miles, falls into the Pentland frith at the Tor, or Bighouse-bay, 5 miles south-east of Strathy-head. It is a rapid stream, and receives many " tributary rivulets from the neighbouring mountains to Golval, whence it flows through level ground to the sea. The tide flows about 2 miles up the river ; but it is only navigable by boats. Strath- halladale is under the ecclesiastical charge of the same missionary who officiates at Acharainey, mentioned in our article on Halkirk. Here also is a Free church, which forms a joint charge with a church in Strathy; and the sum raised in connexion with which in 1865 was £1'>8 12s. HALLBAR. See Carluke. HALLEATHS. See Dryfesdale and Lochma- BEN. HALLERHIRST. See Stevenston. HALLGREEN. See Beryie. HALLI BLADE. See Dunfermline. HALLIDAY HILL, a hill on the north-east bor- der of the parish of Dunscore, Dumfries-shire. HALLYARDS, a quondam estate in the parish of West Calder, Edinburghshire. John Graham of Hallyards, who became a lord of session in the latter part of the 1 6th century, brought the Court of Session and the General Assembly into violent collision on a question arising out of a private affair of his own, and eventually embroiled himself with the Duke of Lennox, and was slain in a fracas on the public streets of Edinburgh. HALSx\RY, a locality in the south-west of the parish of Watten, Caithness-shire, where there is a mission-station of the Royal bounty, under the care of the same missionary who officiates at Acharainey in Halkirk, and at Halladale in Reay. HALTREES, a hamlet, and an ancient chapelry, on Gala water, 5| miles northwest of Stow, Edin- burghshire. HALYBURTON. See Greenlaw. HALYHILL. See Forteviot. HAM-, an Anglo-Saxon prefix or suffix in topo- graphical names, signifying variously a home, a farm, a property, a habitation, a hamlet, and a small town. HAM, or Holm. See Dunnet. HAMER, an ancient parish comprehended in the modern pai-ish of Whitekirk in Haddingtonsliire. See Whitekirk. HAMILTON, a parish, containing the town of Hamilton and the village of Fernigair, in the mid- dle ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded by Both- well, Dalziel, Cambusnethan, Dalserf, Stonehouse, Glassford, and Blantyre. It has nearly a square outline, extending 6 miles each way; and contains 22-25 square miles, or 14,240 imperial acres. Ori- ginally its name was CadyJiou, Cadi/ou, or Cadzoiv; and the latter designation is still retained by one of its burns. The name was, however, changed from Cadzow to Hamilton in 1445, by virtue of a charter granted by James II. of Scotland to James, first Lord Hamilton. The parish was at that time erect- ed into a lordship. Hamilton of Wishaw says — " This lordship was anciently the propertie of the kings of Scotland, there being severall old charters be Alexander the Second and Alexander the Third, kings of Scotland, dated ' apud castrum nostrum de Cadichou,' call'd afterwards the castle of Hamilton. The precise tyme when this lordship was given to the Duke of Hamilton his predicessors is not clear; but there is ane charter extant, granted by King Robert Bruce in the 7th year of his reigne, 1314, to HAMILTON. 40 HAMILTON. Sir Walter the sone of Sir Gilbert de Hamilton, of this baroiiie and the tenenihy of Adelwood, which formerly belonged to his father Sir Gilbert, and hetli, without any interruption, continued in that faniilie since. " The river Clyde flows about 5 miles in connexion with the parish ; tracing over most of that distance tlie north-eastern boundary, but cutting oft" a small wing on the right; the river Avon flows 3.J miles across the south-eastern district, to a confluence with the Clyde about a mile from the town; and nine rivulets or burns water various parts of the interior, six of them falling into the Avon, and three into tiie Clyde. " AH these burns have their origin in the high grounds in the west and south- west of the parisli. By time and perseverance they have forced their way through great chasms in the sandstone rocks, forming magnificent heughs or ravines of great magnitude, infinitely varied, and richly wooded. These constitute part of ' the beau- ties of Scotland,' of which a stranger passing along the highway knows and sees but little." The scenes along the Clyde are still richer, and in an- other style, while those along the Avon are sur- passingly romantic; but they have already been sufficiently described in our articles Ci.vde and AvoK. Tlie surface of the parish inward from the streams, is considerably diversified, and aggregately pleasant. Along the Clyde lie extensive valley- grounds of a deep and fertile soil. Thence the land rises gradually to the south-west, to a considerable height: in the higher parts to more than 600 feet above the level of the sea. Still it is not a hilly district, these ascents being formed of an undulat- ing upward swell. The soil of the heights is mostly of a clayish nature. The lower parts of the ascent are tolerably fertile and well-cultivated; but fi'om the nature of the soil and bottoms, it is not an early district — the higher parts often producing scanty and late crops. There are a few swampy meadows in the upper parts; but with this exception, and that of the woods, it is almost entirely arable. After all, this parish is rather a beautiful than a fertile one, and according to the Old Statistical Account, " cultivation has been more successful in enriching the scenery than in multiplying the an- nual productions." The district is exceedingly well-fenced and wooded, and the crops raised com- prise every thing included in the usual agricultural catalogue. Orchard-produce is not cultivated here so extensively as in many parishes in Clydesdale; but there are nevertheless many large gardens, which are not only productive in themselves, but add vastly to the beauty of the landscape. There is some fine wood in the parish, particularly the "old oaks" beliind Cadzow, which are scattered over a noble chase of 1,500 acres, and are supposed to have been planted by David, Earl of Hunting- don, aftei-wards King of Scotland, about the year 1140. Many of these trees have attained a vast size, and there is one of them called ' the Boss tree,' near Wood-house, which is capable of accommodat- ing eight persons in its interior. In the glades of the Cadzow forest, a number of the ancient Cale- donian breed of cattle, noticed in our article on Cumbernauld, are kept browsing. Their bodies are purely white, with the exception of the ears, muz- zles, and hoofs, which are black; and they are perfectly safe and docile, excepting when they have young, to which they manifest a more than usual affection. A number of fallow deer are kept in a park on the opposite bank of the Avon. Coal, lime, and ironstone abound. The coal is most extensively worked at Quarter, about 3 miles from Hamilton. It is brought from Quarter by a railway laid along the banks of the Avon ; and is stored at Avonbridge within half-a-mile of the town. Coal is worked also at riotcock and Langt'augh. Limestone of good quality, in beds respectively 4 feet and 6 feet thick, occur at Crookedstone and Boghead, in the south- west of the parish; and a seam of ironstone, about 18 inches thick, lies there below the limestone. Sandstone is raised in 6 or 7 quarries. The yearly produce of the parish was estimated in 1835 at £14,329 in grain, £7,33(5 in hay, potatoes &c., £6,000 in produce of pasture lands, £600 in produce of gardens and orchards, £3,000 in coals, metals, and stones, and £1,000 in miscellaneous produce, — in all, £32,265. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £36,243. Tlie old valued rental is £9,377 Scots; and the real rental in 1835 was £20,176, —of which £8,638 was for the town. The parish contains rains or vestiges of many old edifices, whose pristine gloiy has long since departed, among which may be named Silverton hill, Earnock, Ross, Motherwell, Nielsland, Barn- cluith, AUanshaw, Darngaber, Edlewood, Mirritoun, and Udstoun, which were formerly seats of diff'erent scions of the house of Hamilton. But nmch more interesting than any of these is Cadzow castle, situated on a precipitous rock by the side of the Avon. This castle is of veiy remote but unrecorded origin, and belonged to several of the Kings ot Scotland, down to Ilobei't Bruce, who granted it to the ancestor of the ducal family of Hamilton. It seems to have been repaired at diff'erent periods; but was dismantled amid the events of the civil wars, in the time of Queen Mary. The keep, with the fosse around it, a narrow bridge over the fosse, and a well in the interior, are still in a fair state of preservation. They are constructed of a reddish polished stone. The walls of some attached build- ings, probably chapel and offices, also several vaults, are likewise still visible. Cadzow castle is tlie subject of a fine well-known ballad by Sir Walter Scott. On the opposite side of the Avon stands the modern chateau of Chatelherault, a sumptuous pile, built in 1732 in imitation of the citadel of Chatelherault in Boitou, and rivetting at- tention at once by its accompanying pleasure- grounds, by its romantic position in the Avon's ravine, and by its own red walls, square towers, and curious pinnacles. In the dell of the Avon also are situated the ancient terraced gardens of Bam- cluith, or Baron's Cleugh, the property of Lady Ruthven. The house is situated on the top of a bold bank, with walks cut out of the rock, one under the other descending towards the river, sup- ported by high walls, and beautified by fruit-trees of various kinds, and commands an enchanting prospect of the wooded banks of the Avon, and the delightful amphitheatre around and beyond. Near Meikle- Earnock, about 2 miles from the town, occurs a Roman tumulus. It is 8 feet high, and 12 feet in diameter. When broken up many years ago, a number of urns were found containing the ashes of human bones, and amongst them the tooth of a horse. There was no inscription seen; but some of the urns — which were all of baked earth — were plain, and others decorated with moulding, probably to mark the quality of the deceased. In the haugh, in the vicinity of the palace of Hamilton, an ancient moat-hill or seat of justice is pointed out. It is about 30 feet diameter at the base, and 15 feet high, and is evidently a construction of great antiquity. — The celebrated Dr. Cullen was a native of this par- ish, having been born in i* ^pril 15, 1710. He was a magistrate of Hamilton for a number of years. Lord Cochrane, now the Earl of Dundonald, spent many of his younger years in the parish. The HAMILTON. 41 H A:\nLTON. father of the late Professor Millar of Glasgow was one of the parochial clergymen; as were also the father of tlie late Dr. Baillie of London, and his celebrated sister Joanna. The town, woods, and ravines of Hamilton have, from early times, been the scene of important events. They were particularly so in the times of the persecution, in consequence of the majority of the parishioners being devoted adherents to the cause of the Covenant. In the winter of 1650, Cromwell despatched General Lambert and Commis- sary-general Whalley to Hamilton, with five regi- ments of cavalry, for the purpose of keeping the Covenanters of the district in check, or of seducing them over to his own views. They were attacked by a party of 1 ,500 horsemen from Ayrshire, under Colonel Kerr, and a great number of horses fell into the hands of the Covenanters; but Lambert having rallied his forces, attacked the Covenanters in tvirn, at a spot 2 miles from Hamilton, killed Colonel Kerr, with about 100 of his men, and took a great number of prisoners. In June 1679 Graham of Claverhouse, when upon his way to the field of Drumclog, seized, near the town of Hamilton, John King, a field-preacher, and 17 other persons, whom he bound in pairs and drove before him in the direction of Loudon hill. After their success at Drumclog, the Covenanters marched to Hamilton, and resolved upon an attack on Glasgow; but, as is well-known, they were severely i-epulsed, after which they again retired to Hamilton, where the more moderate portion of the body drew up the document which afterwards obtained the name of ' the Hamilton declaration,' the purport of which was to deny any intention of overturning the government, to forbear all disputes and recrimina- tions in the meantime, and to refer all matters to a free parliament and a general assembly lawfully chosen. This proposition was scouted by the violent party, and their guard being attacked in the night-time, near Hamilton ford, one of their num- ber, named James Cleland, was killed. After the disastrous battle of Bothwell Brig, the fugitives fled in all directions through the parish, and Gordon of Earlston, who had reached the parish with a body of men under his command from Galloway, met his vanquished brethren near Quarter, at which place he was killed. About 1,200 men were taken prisoners in the parish by the King's troops; and many of the persecuted 'hill folk' only escaped death by hiding in Hamilton woods. For this safety they were much indebted to the amiable and generous Anne, Duchess of Hamilton, who begged the Duke of Monmouth, the commander, that his soldiers might not be permitted to enter her planta- tions ; and thus many lives were saved which, but for her interference, would have been sacrificed. Hamilton gives the title of Baron, Marquis, and Duke, in the peerage of Scotland, to the noble family of Hamilton-Douglas. This illustrious family is said to be descended from Sir William de Hamilton, one of the sons of William de Bellomont, third Earl of Leicester. Sir William's son. Sir Gilbert Hamil- ton, having spoken in admiration of Robert the Bruce, at the court of Edward II., received a blow from John de Spencer, who conceived the discourse was derogatory to his master. This led, on the following day, to an encounter in which Spencer fell, and Hamilton tied for safety to Scotland in 1323. Having been closely pursued in his flight, Hamilton and his servant changed clothes with two woodcutters ; and, taking the saws of the workmen, they were in the act of cutting an oak-tree when his pursuers passed. Perceiving his servant to notice them, Sir Gilbert cried out to him ' Through ! ' which word, with the oak and saw through it, he took for his crest in remembrance and commemora- tion of his escape. He afterwards became a favourite with Robert Bruce, and from an old manuscript it appears that he was one of seven knights who ' kept the king's person' in the field of Bannockburn, and afterwards continued with him till his death, and attended his burial at Dunfermline. Sir Walter de Hamilton, the son of Sir Gilbert, acquired the lands of Cadzow, in the sheriftdom of Lanark, and others; and from him was descended, in the fifth de gree. Sir James Hamilton of Cadzow, who was the first peer of the family. He was originally attached to the powerful family of Douglas, and was an im- portant adherent of the Earl of that name, when in 1455 that nobleman took the field in open rebellion against his sovereign. Sir James, however, deserted from Douglas to the King, almost upon the eve of a battle, upon which the chances appeared as much in favour of the subject as the sovereign ; and his ex- ample being followed by others, the army of Douglas rapidly disappeared, and ruin came upon his once potent house. For this notable service Sir James was created a lord of parliament, and he also obtained a grant, dated 1st July, 1455, of the office of sheriff of the county of Lanark, and subsequently grants of extensive territorial possessions. He married for his second wife, in 1474, Mary, eldest daughter of King James II., and widow of Thomas Boyd, Earl of Arian. Dying in 1479 he was succeeded by his only son, James, second Lord Hamilton, who obtained a charter of the lands and earldom of Arran in 1503. This nobleman was constituted lieutenant-general of the kingdom, warden of the marches, and one of the lords of the regency in 1517. He was succeeded by his son James, the second Earl, who had only, betwixt him and the throne, Mary daughter of James v., and afterwards Queen of Scots. In 1543 he was declared heir-presumptive to the Crown, and was ap- pointed guardian to Queen Mary, and governor of the kingdom during her minority. He was mainly in- strumental in bringing about the marriage of the youthful princess to the Dauphin, in opposition to the wishes of Henry VIII. of England; and in token of his approval of these services, the French king — Henry the Second — conferred upon him the title of Duke of Chatelherault, in addition to a pen- sion of 30,000 livres a-year. He continued to take an active part in public afi"airs till his death in 1575, when he was succeeded in the earldom of Arran by James his eldest son, the dukedom of Chatelherault having been resumed by the French crown. This nobleman, upon the arrival of Queen Mary, in 1561, openly aspired to the honour of her hand; but having opposed the enjoyment of the Queen's exercise_ of her religion, and having entered a protestation against it, he entirely lost her favour. His love, inflamed by disappointment, gradually undermined his reason, and at last he broke out into ungovern- able frenzy. He was in consequence declared by the cognition of inquest to be insane, and the estates of his father devolved upon his brother. Lord John Hamilton, comraendator of Aberbrothock, who, in 15l")7, was one of those who entered into an associa- tion to rescue Queen Mary from the castle of Loch- leven; and upon her escape she fled to his estate of Hamilton, and there held her court. From thence she proceeded to Langside where her forces were defeated by the Regent Murray. The castle of Hamilton was besieged and taken, and Lord John went into banishment. The fealty of this nobleman to his unhappy Queen never swerved for a moment; and so well aware was she of his fidelity that one of her last acts was to transmit to him a ring, which is still preserved in the family. He was recalled by HA^IILTON. 42 HAMILTON. James VI., restored to the family-estates, and created, in 1599, Marquis of Ilanulton. Dying, in 1001, he was succeeded by his only son, Jnnics, second Marquis, who obtained also an English peer- age by the titles of 15aron of Ennerdale in Cumberland, and Earl of Cambridge. He died in 1625, and was succeeded by his eklest son, James, third Marquis, wlio was created Marquis of Clydesdale, and in 1643 Duke of Hamilton, and received a grant of the hereditary ollice of keeper of llolyrood palace. This iioblcinan, the first Duke of Hamilton, warmly espoused the cause of King Charles 1., and promoted ' the engagement ' to raise troops for the service of his sovereign. As is well-known, he was defeated at the battle of Preston, where he was made j>risoner; and being brought to trial by the same court by which the King had been condemned, he was found guilty of having levied war upon the people of England, and suffered decapitation in Old ralace-yard on 9th March, 1649. His Grace was succeeded by his brother, "William, the fourth Mar- quis, and second Duke, who had previously been elevated to the peerage as Lord JMacanshire and Polmont, and Earl of Lanark. The Duke was mortally wounded in the cause of Charles IL at the battle of Worcester ; and by Cromwell's act of grace, passed in 1654, he was excepted from all benefit thereof, and his estates forfeited, reserving only out of them £400 a-year for his Duchess for life, and £100 to each of his four daughters and their heirs. His Grace's own honours fell under the attainder, and his English dignities expired ; but the dukedom of Hamilton, in virtue of the patent, devolved upon his niece, the eldest daughter of James, the first Duke. Lady Anne Hamilton, Duchess of Hamilton, introduced the Douglas name into the family by marrying Lord William Douglas, eldest son of Wil- liam, first Marquis of Douglas ; and she obtained by petition for her husband, in 1660, the title of Duke of Hamilton for life. His Grace had previously been elevated to the peerage as Earl of Selkirk. This peer sat as president of the convention parlia- ment, which settled the crown upon William and Mary. He died in 1694, and was succeeded by his eldest son, James, Earl of Arran, who, upon the Duchess, a few years afterwards, surrendering her honours, became then, l)y patent, Duke of Hamilton, with the precedency of tlie original creation of 1643, in the same manner as if he had originally inherited. He was created an English peer in 1711, as Baron of Dutton in the county of Chester, and Duke of Brandon in the county of Suffolk; but upon pro- ceeding to take his scat in the House of Lords, it was objected, that by the 23d article of the Union, "no p^er of Scotland could, after the Union, be created a peer of England;" and the house came to this resolution after a protracted debate. The Duke having accepted a challenge from Charles, Lord Mohun, fought that nobleman in Hyde Park on 15th November, 1712, and having slain his op- ponent, fell himself, through the treacheiy, as was suspected, of General Macartney, Lord Mohun's second, for whose apprehension a reward of £500 was subsequently offered. Macartney eventually surrendered, and was tried in the court of king's bench in June 1716, when he was acquitted of the murder, and found guilty of manslaughter. His Grace was succeeded by his son, James, fifth Duke of Hamilton and second Duke of Brandon, who died in 1742-3, and was succeeded bv his eldest son, James, the sixth Duke, who died in 1758. He was succeeded by his son James George, the seventh Duke, who succeeded to the Marquisate of Douglas and Earldom of Angus, upon the demise, in 1761, .lls her red tide to Teviot's western strand, Through slaty hills, whose sides are shag-ged with tlinni, AVhere spring's in scattered tufts the dark f^reen corn, Towers wood-girt Harden, far above the \ ale, And clouds of ravens o'er the turrets sail. A hardy race who never shrunk from war, The .Scott, to rival realms a mighty bar, Here fixed his mountain-home, — a wide domain. And rich the soil, had purple heath been grain; But what the niggard ground of wealth denied. From fields more blessed his fearless arm supplied." Mary Scott, the Ladv of Harden, and the descendant of her namesake, the Flower of Yarrow, fostered, it is said, an unknown child brought home by Wat of Harden, from one of his wild excursions, — a child so gifted that he is believed to have been the mo- dest anonymous author of not a few of the Border songs. HARD6ATE, a village, a seat of manufiicture, with a cotton-mill and a dyework, within a mile of Duntocher, and associated in industry with that place, in the parish of old Kilpatrick, Dumbarton- shire. Population, 467. See Du.ntocher. HARDGATE, a village in the parish of Urr, Kirkeudbritrhtshire. Population, 46. Houses, 11. HARDGATE OF CLATT, the modern village of Clatt, in the parish of Clatt, Aberdeenshire. It stands a little south of the old village, and may be regarded as a continuation of it; but the old vilhtge is nearly extinct. Population of Hardgate in 1854, 46. HARDIE'S HILL. See Eaulston. HARD:\I00R. See Dyke and Moy. HAREFAULDS. See Forfarshire. HARELAWHILL. See Canosbik. HARESTANES BURN, an affluent of the Tweed, in the lower part of the parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire. It rises on Caini-law, near the boundary with Lyne, and runs north-westward to the Tweed in the vicinity of Crook-inn. H \ R K ERS (The) . See Eyemouth. HARLAW, a farm in the parish of Cliapel-of- Garioch, Aberdeenshire, noted for a battle fought on it, on the 24th of July 1411, between a rel>el army tinder Donald, Lord of the Isles, and the royal forces under the Earl of Mar. Donald, in alliance with I'jiigland, and at the head of 10,000 men, overran Ross-shire, marched through Inverness-shire and Mora}', acquired accessions to his strength in those districts and in Banft'shire, and resolved now to carry into execution a threat he had often made, to burn the town of Aberdeen. He committed great exces.ses in Strathbogie and in the district of Garioch, which belonged to the Earl of Mar. The inhabitants of Aberdeen were in dreadful alarm at the near ap- proach of this marauder and his fierce hordes; but their fears were allayed by the speedy appearance of a well-equipped army, commanded by the Earl of Mar, who bore a higli military character, assisted by many brave knights and gentlemen in Angus and the Mearns. Advancing from Aberdeen, Mar marched by Inverury, and descried the Highlanders stationed at Harlaw, on the water of Ury near its junction with the Don. Mar soon saw that he had to contend with tremendous odds ; but although his forces were, it is said, as one to ten to those opposed to him, he resolved, from the confidence he had in his steel-clad knights, to risk a battle. Having placed a small but select body of knights and men- at-arms in front, under the command of the consta- ble of Dundee and the sheriff of Angus, the Earl drew up the main strength of his army in the rear, including the Murrays, the Straitens, the Maules, the livings, the Lesleys, the Lovels, the Stirlings, headed by their respective chiefs. The Earl then placed himself at the head of this body. On the othei- side, under the Lord of the Isles, were Mack- intosh and Maclean and other highland chiefs, all bearing the most deadly hatred to their Saxon foes. On a signal being given, the Highlanders and Islesmen, setting up those terrific shouts and yells which they were accustomed to raise on entering into battle, rushed forwanl upon their opponents ; but they were received with great firmness and bravery by the knights, who, with their spears levelled, and battle-axes raised, cut down many of their impetuous but badly armed adversaries. After the Lowlanders had recovered themselves from the shock which the fuiions onset of the Highlanders had produced. Sir James Scrymgeour, at the head of the knights and bannerets who fought under him, cut his way through the thick columns of the Isles- men, carrying death every where around him ; but. the slaughter of hundreds by this brave party did not intimidate the Highlanders, who kept pouring in by thousands to supply the place of those who had fallen. Surrounded on all sides, no alternative remained for Sir James and his valorous companions but victory or death, and the latter was their lot. The constable of Dundee was amongst the first who suffered, and his fall so encouraged the Highlanders, that seizing and stabbing the horses, they unhorsed tlie riders, whom they despatched with their daggers. In the meantime the Earl of Mar, who had pene- trated with his main army into the very heart of the enemy, kept up the unequal contest with great bravery, and, although he lost during the action almost the whole of his army, he continued the fatal struggle with a handful of men till nightfall. The disastrous result of this battle was one of the greatest misfortunes which had ever happened HAROLDSWICK. 47 HARRIS. to the numerous respectable families in Angus and the Mearns. Many of these families lost not only their head, but every male in the house. Lesley of Balquhain is said to have fallen with six of his sons. Besides Sir James Scrymgeour, Sir Alexander Ogilvy the sheriff of Angus, with his eldest son George Ogilvy, Sir Thomas Murray, Sir Robert Maule of Panmure, Sir Alexander Irving of Drum, Sir William Abernethy of Salton, Sir Alexander Straiton of Lauriston, James Lovel, and Alexander Stirling, and Sir Robert Davidson, provost of Aber- deen, with 500 men-at-ai^ms including the principal gentry of Buchan, and the greater part of the bur- gesses of Aberdeen who followed their provost, were among the slain. The Highlanders left 900 men dead on the field of battle, including the chiefs, Maclean and Mackintosh. This memorable battle was fought on the eve of the feast of St. James the Apostle, the 24th day of July, in the year 1411 ; " and from the ferocity with which it was contested, and the dismal spectacle of civil war and bloodshed exhibited to the country, it appears to have made a deep impression on the national mind. It fixed it- self in the music and the poetry of Scotland; a march, called ' the Battle of TIarlaw,' continued to be a popular air down to the time of Drummond of Hawthornden ; and a spirited ballad, on the same event, is still repeated in our age, describing the meeting of the armies, and the deaths of the chiefs, in no ignoble strain." Mar and the few brave companions in arms who survived the battle, were so exhausted with fatigue and the wounds they received, that they were obliged to pass the night on the field of battle, where they expected a renevval of the attack next morning; but when morning dawned, they found that the Lord of the Isles had retreated, during the night, by Inverury and the hill of Benochie. To pursue him was im- possible, and he was therefore allowed to retire, without molestation, and to recruit his exhausted strength. HAROLD'S TOWER. See Thurso. HAROLDSWICK, a post-otfice station and a bay in the middle of the east side of the island of Unst in Shetland. HARPORT (Loch), a ramification of Loch Eracadale, on the south-west side of the island of Skye. It deflects to the south-east, extends in length about 6 miles, and separates the lower part of Minginish from the rest of the island. It affords safe harbourage to vessels. HARPSDALE. See H.a.lkirk. IIARRAY. See Birsay. HARRIOTFIELD, a post-office station subor- dinate to Perth. HARRIS, a parish, containing a post-office station of its own name, in the Outer Hebrides of Inver- ness-shire. It comprehends the southern part of Lewis, and the small adjacent islands. It is bounded, on the north, by the parishes of Lochs and Uig in Lewis ; on the east, by the Minch and the Little Minch; on the south, by the sound of Harris, which divides it from North Uist; and on the west, by the Atlantic ocean. Its length, from north to south, measured along the line of communication, is about 50 miles; its breadth varies from 8 to 24 miles; and its superficial extent is upwards of 146 square miles. These measurements, however, are exclusive of the island of St. Kilda, which lies a very long distance to the west. See Kilda (St.). The other isles and islets lielonging to it are very numerous, and some of them very small ; but the inhabited ones are only eight, — Scalpay, Taransay, Scarp, Pabbay, Ensay, Killigray, Bernera, and Anabich. The northern part of the mainland of Harris is separated from Lewis by an isthmus of about 9 miles across, formed by the approximation of the two har- bours of Loch-Resort on the west coast and Loch- Seaforth on the east. The whole length, from the isthmus to the southern end of Harris, where the Sound of Harris separates it from North Uist, may be estimated at 25 or 26 miles. Its breadth is ex- tremely various, in consequence of its being deeply intersected by sevei-al arms of the sea; but it gener- ally extends from 6 to 8 miles. Harris is again naturally divided into two districts by two arms of the sea, called East and West Loch-Tarbert, which approach so near each other as to leave an isthmus of not more than a quarter of a mile in breadth. The northern district, between Tarbert and Lewis, is termed the Forest, though without a tree or shrub. It is also sometimes called Na Beannibh, that is ' the Mountains.' Its surface is exceedingly mountainous, rising in Clisheim [which see] to nearly 3,000 feet above the sea. The mountains are in general bare and rocky ; but the valleys con- tain tolerable pasturage; and the interstices of the mountains contain .some coarse grass. The largest stream empties itself into Loch-Resort. Along the eastern and western shores there are a number of creeks or inlets of the sea — most of them commodi- ous harbours — at each of which a colony of tenants contrive, by a wonderful exertion of industry, to raise crops from a soil of the most forbidding aspect ; but in the whole of this tract there is not a piece of good arable land of the extent of 4 acres. There are several lakes in the valleys, at various altitudes, but none exceeding 2 miles in length. On the east coast is the low swampy island of Scalpay ; and on the west, the high and rocky island of Scarp. The surface of the ground south of Tarbert is much of the same appearance as the northern dis- trict; but the mountains are not so elevated. The highest are Ronaval, Bencapoal, and Benloskentir, which have an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet. •' The aspect of this region, as seen from the Minch," says a writer in the Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, " is singularly uninviting, almost the whole surface appearing to consist of bare white rock. Indeed, a more perfect picture of sterility can scarcely be imagined. Viewed from the west, however, this district has a very different appear- ance, — -the shores being in general sands', and the hills for the most part covered with a green vegeta- tion. Along the east coast — which is everyivhere rocky and low — there are numerous inlets and creeks, here denouiiuated bays, that word being supposed to correspond to the Gaelic baigh, which latter, however, appears to be nothing else than a corruption of the Danish voe. Many of these aftbrd good harbours. Many small islands lie along this coast. The southern shore partakes in a great measure of the nature of the eastern, being rocky and low ; but toward the west side it exhibits a few sandy beaches, and ends in a tremendous precipice, with a high neck of land running out from it, in which thei-e are two fine caves. On the west coast there are, besides several sandy beaches, two great sands — oy fords, as they are here called — namely, the sand of Northtown and that of Loskentir. They consist of nearly level expanses, each extending up- wards of a mile from the sea. At their mouth there is a long bar formed by the surf and winds, broken only in one place, close to the adjacent rocky land, where a channel is formed which admits the waters of the sea at each tide. These, at spring- tides, cover the whole sands. The rest of the coast is rocky, but low, excepting toward Tarbert, where there are tremendous cliffs This division is inter- HARRIS. 48 IIARTFELL. Bected by two greit valleys, one passing from the ■and of Loskentir to the east coast, the other from the fann of Borg. The bottom of a great portion of the latter is occupied by a lake about 3 miles long, the largest in the district. There are thus formed three natural subdivisions ; that to the south of the lake mentioned consists of six mountains, including the peninsular one of Ben Tapval, which are sepa- rated by broadish valleys. The vegetation here is tolerable, excepting on Ronaval, wliich is rocky and bare, and exhibits on its eastern side a fine ex- cavation, resembling the crater of a volcano. It is chiefly heathy, however, excepting along the west side, where the pasturage is rich and varied The middle division, from Loch-LaJigavat to the north- em valley, is marked by a ridge of very rugged mountains, mnning in the general direction of the range, and situated nearer the western side. Along the west coast of this subdivision, there is some good pasture ; but on the eastern side, the only soil being peat, and even that existing only in patches among the rocks, the vegetation is extremely coarse and scanty. From one of the summits of the ridge mentioned, I have counted upwards of eighty small lakes on its eastern side. The northern subdivision consists of Benloskentir, which gradually lowers to the eastward. The lakes in the low grounds on its eastern part are also extremely numerous. The water of all these lakes is brown. There are no harbours on the west coast of this soutliem division of the mainland of Harris, and it is even very diffi- cult for boats to land on the beaches, owing to the high surf. It possesses no sylvan vegetation, ex- cepting a few bushes in ruts and on islets in the lakes. The principal island is Taransay, on the west coast, the greater part of which is rocky, al- though it contains good pasture. This division has no general name applied to it in the country; but its western part is called the Jllachar, i.e.' the Sandy district ; ' and its eastern, Xa Baigh, ' the Bays,' or more coiTcctly ' the Voes.' " Harris contains no minerals of great value, except some iron and copper ore. Granite and freestone abound in every part ; potstone, serpentine, and as- bestos occur here and there ; but the predominating rock is gneiss, which has undergone little decomposi- tion. Thekelpnianufactory was formerly of great ex- tent, rendering the rental of the parish about double of what it is at present. Various attempts were made by the former proprietor, Alexander Macleod. Esq., to establish fishing colonies; but they all proved unsuccessful. Some of the best farms have, in recent times, been converted into sheep-walks. The whole parisli was purchased by Lord Dunmore, about 20 years ago, for £60,000. The yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1841 at £11,900; and the yearly value of real property, as assessed in 1860, was £4,073. An annual cattle fair is held in July ; but the amount of traffic of every kind throughout the year is comparatively small. On the mainland are many monuments of Druidism, and several religious edifices erected about the time of the introduction of Christianity. The churches, together with the smaller chapels, all seem to have depended immediately on the monastery at Kodil or Rowadill, dedicated to St. Clement ; which, though its foundation be attributed to David 1., is generally supposed to be of more ancient date. Population of the parish in 1831, 3,900 ; in 1861, 4,183. Houses, 778. This parish is in the presbytery of Uist and synod of Glenelg. Patron, the "Earl of Dunmore. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d ; glelje, £12. The parish church was erected in 1840, and contains 400 sit- tings. The islands in the Sound of Harris have been constituted into the quoad sacra parish of Berxera : which see. There is a mission station of the Royal boiuity, with church and manse, at Tarbert. There is a Free chuich of Harris, with an attendance of about 900 ; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £27 19s. There is also a Free church for Bernera and Trnmisgarrj% The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is only £35, with scarcely any fees. There are four other schools, — three of them supported by public bodies. " Till of late," says the Old Statistical Account, " this parish has been designed Kilbride, from one of the churches or cells in it so called. It is now denominated, in English. Harris, and, in the ver- nacular dialect, Na Heradh, that is, ' the Hcrries,' — a name which seems to be Gaelic, though we can not pretend to trace its origin with precision. A fanciful etymologist might derive it from na har- dubh, signif\nng ' the Heights ; ' this parish being in reality the highest and most mountainous part of the Long-Island, in which it is situated ; and another circumstance, which seems to give coun- tenance to this derivation, is, that the highest part of the island of Rum, another of the Hebrides, is also called Na Heradh." HARRIS (Sound of), a navigable channel be- tween the islands of Harris and North Uist; 9 miles in length, and from 8 to 12 in breadth. It is the only passage for vessels of burden passing from the east to the west side of that long cluster of islands called the Long Island: wliicb see. It is much incumbered with rocks, shoals, and islets ; but, with a skilful pilot, can be passed in safety. A few of them may measure a mile in length, and about half- a-mile in breadth. They are covered with heath and moss, and afford pretty good summer-pasturage. The people of the larger islands repair to them with their families and cattle in summer ; and here they get peats for fuel, there being no moss in any of the inhabited islands of this district, excepting Calli- gray. The names of the largest isles are Henni- tray. "Hulmitray, Saartay, Votersay, Neartay, Op- say, Vaaksay, Haay, Suursay, Torogay, Scarvay, Lingay, Groay. Gilisay, Saeay, Stromay, Skeilay, and Copay. There are, besides these, a vast num- ber of islets, holms, and high rocks, for all of which the people have names. A remarkable variation of the current happens in this sound, from the autum- nal to the vernal equinox ; the current in neap-tides passes all day from east to west, and all night in a contrary direction. After the vernal equinox, it changes this course, going all day from west to east, and the contrary at night. At spring-tides the current corresponds nearly to the common course. HARROW (Loch), a small lake, abounding in trout, in the north of the parish of Kells, Kirkcud- brightshire. HART BURN. See Grange Blkx, Kirkcud- brightshire. HARTFELL, a mountain on the mutual border of the parish of Moffiit in Dumfries-shire, and the parish of Tweedsmuir in Peebles-shire. It has an elevation of 2,635 feet above sea-level ; but has been very generally assigned a much loftier eleva- tion, and erroneously regarded as the highest mountain in the south of Scotland. It is broad based and of gentle acclivity, insomuch that the greater part of it may be ascended on horseback; and by a broad flat summit, carpeted with verdure, spread out like a field among the clouds, and com- manding a vast, a magnificent, and a varied land- scape, it invites the approach of the tourist to the survey of the far-spreading prospect which it com- mands. To the north, over a wide and billowy sea of mountains, the spectator sees, in certain statics HAKTFELL. 49 HASSENDEAN. of the atmosphere, the snowy cap or cloud-wreathed brow of Benlomond ; to the east, he looks athwart the green hills of Tweeddale and the Foi'est, gene- rally shaded beneath a gorgeous aeiial sea of clouds, till his eye rests on the far-away Cheviots ; to the west, he looks along the nigged and wild scenery of the Lowthers, till he descries the towering sum- mit of Blacklaig; and to the south, he surveys tlie Toagnificent uplands of Dumfries-shire, and finds no limit to his view till it is pent up by the Cumber- land mountains, presided over by the lofty Skiddaw. But Hartfell, though strictly the single summit we have described, is often understood to mean the whole group of alpine elevations at the centre of the great mountain-range which runs from Northum- berland to Loch Ryan, — Whitecomb, Broadlaw, Ettrick-Pen, Queensberry, Saddleback, and Loch- raig, all worthy, in their grenadier proportions and picturesque dress, to be attendants on Hartfell, and forming, as a group, the points of radiation for most of the spurs or ranges of the southern Highlands. A spa, on the south side of Hartfell, and bearing its name, is scarcely less noted than the mountain itself. This is one of two chalybeate springs in the parish of Moffat, which more than any kindred fountains in Scotland possess, and hitherto have maintained, the character of presenting in their waters a slow but safe and certain remedy for diseases which a chalybeate has power to remove. 14ie Hartfell spa issues from a rock of alum- slate in a tremendous ra\nne on the side of Hartfell- mountain, nearly 4 miles distant from the village of Moft'at. Mr. Jamieson observed, in the ravine, frequent efflorescences of yellowish grey-coloured natural alum ; and Dr. Garnet found in it crystals cf natural iron-vitriol. In the alum-slate, from among which the spa has its efflux, Mr. Jamieson observed also massive and disseminated iron-pyrites. A wine gallon of the water, as analyzed by Dr. Garnet, contains 84 grains of iron-vitriol, or sul- piiate of iron, 12 grains of sulphate of alumina, 15 grains of oxide of iron, and 5 cubic inches of azotic acid gas. The sulphuric acid maintained in com- bination, seems to be supersaturated with the oxide of iron, and deposits it either gradually by exposure to the air, or immediately by ebullition. Owing to the atmospheric water, during heavy rains, passing through channels in the alum-rock more richly im- pregnated with the minerals of the spring than those which it traverses during a long-continued drought, the water of the spa, after a copious and protracted fall of i"ain, is always increased in quali- ty and strength. The principal mineralizers being the sulphates of iron and alumina, the water, if well corked, M'ill keep unimpaired for months, and per- haps for years, and does not need to be drank by invalids in the wild scene of its origin, but may al- ways be procured in a fresh state in the village of Moftat. Dr. Johnston, speaking of its properties, apart from its acknowledged power as a tonic, and ccjnsequent usefulness in all cases of debility, says, " I have known many instances of its particular good effects in coughs proceeding from phlegm, spitting of blood, and sweatings; in stomach com- plaints, attended with headaches, giddiness, heart- burn, vomiting, indigestion, flatulency, and habitu- al costiveness ; in gouty complaints affecting the stomach and bowels ; and in diseases peculiar to the fair sex. It has likewise been used with great ad- vantages in tetterous complaints, and old obstinate ulcers." The spa was discovered about a century ago, by John Williamson. In 1769, Sir George Maxwell erected over his grave, in the churchyard of Moffat, a monument to transmit to future times his name, and the date of his discovery. II HARTHILL, a village in the parish of Shotts, Lanarkshire. Population, 176. Houses, 40. HAKTIE CORRIE, a wild pass through the CuchuUiu hills in Skye. HARTSGARTH FELL. See Ewes, HARVIESTON. See Tillicoultry. HASCUSSAY, an island about 2 miles in length, extending east and west in the middle of the sound between Yell and Fetlar in Shetland. Population in 1841.^42; in 1861, 13. Houses, 2. HASSENDEAN, or Hazkldeax, a suppressed parish, containing a hamlet of its own name, on the left banl: of the Teviot, opposite Cavers, Roxburgh- shire. The surface is so gently beautiful as to have made the bosoms of tuneful poets throb, and drawn from them some of their sweetest numbers. What j^ar excellence constitutes Hassendean, and gave name to the ancient church and the whole parish, is a winding dell, not much different in its curvatures from the letter S, naiTOw and varied in its bottom, gurgling and mirthful in the streamlet which threads it, rapid and high in its sides which are alternately smooth, undulating, and broken, — richly and variedly sylvan in hollow, acclivity, and summit, — -and coiled so snugly amid a little expanse of forest, overlooked by neighbouring picturesque heights, that a stranger stands upon its brow, and is transfixed with the sudden revelation of its beauties, before he has a suspicion of its existence. Near its mouth some neat cottages peep out from among its thick foliage, on the margin of its stream; on the summit of its right bank are the umbrageous grounds which were famed, for upwards of a century, as the nurseiy-gardens of Mr. Dickson, the parent-nurseries of those which beautify the vicinity of Hawick, Dumfries, Perth, and Edinburgh, and either directly or remotely the feeders of nearly one-half of the existing plantations of Scotland. The dell, at its mouth, comes exult- ingh^ out on one of the finest landscapes of the Teviot. The river, on receiving its rill, is just half- way on a semicircular sv/eep of about f of a mile in length ; on the side next the dell, it has a steep and wooded bank ; and on the side which the dell con- fronts, a richly lu.xuriant haugh occupies the fore- ground, the rolling and many-shaped rising grounds of Cavers, profusely adorned with trees, occupy the centre, and the naked frowning form of Rubberslaw cuts a rugged sky-line in the perspective. The monks of Melrose, to whom the ancient church belonged, formed a cell at Hassendean, which was to be a dependency on their monastery. From the date of this establishment, the old tower of Hassen- dean was called the Monk's Tower; and a farm in the vicinity continues to be called Monk's Crcft. After the Reformation, the church, with its perti- nents, was granted to Walter, Earl of Buccleuch. Various attempts to suppress the parish seem to have been rendered abortive by the resistance of the par- ishioners. But in 1 690, amid scenes of violence which rarely attended acts of suppression, and which evinced surpassing indignation on the part of the people, the church was unroofed, and othen\'ise so dilapidated as to be rendered useless. The workman who first set foot on the ladder to commence the demolition, is said to have been struck and killed -ndth a stone ; and so general and furious a turn-out was there of females to assist in the fra_v of resistance that an old song, still well-known in the district, says — " They are a' away to Hassende.in burn, And left both wlicel and cards," A:c. While the parties who had pulled down the church were carrying off whatever parts of it might be ser» viceable at Roberton, the people of Plassendean pur- sued them, engaged them in a sharp conflict at D HATHERSTAN-LAW. 50 HAWICK. Hornshole, halfwav to Hawick, wrenclied from tliem the church-bell and Hiuiff it into a very deep pool of the Teviot at the place, and pave tliem so rough a handlin"- that the sheriff of the county, an ancestor of Douglas of Cavers, wns obliged to interfere. An old woman, it is said, uttered in true weird-style, a denunciation upon Dou'jlns for abetting the destruc- tion of the church, and foretold— what seems as little likely to happen in the line of his posterity as in that of any other great family— the extinction of his race by a failure of male heirs. The parish- ioners, though bereft of their church, continued to use the cemetery of their fathers, till some of it w.ns swept away, and many of its remaining graves laid open, in 179fi, by a flood of the Teviot. The site of the old church is supposed to be now identified with a sand-bank on the opposite side of the Teviot to that on which the edifice stood— the river having swept away the whole of a low projecting point_ of land which'it and its cemetery occupied. The parish was distributed to Minto, Kobert-on, and Wilton,— the major part of the territory being given to Minto, and all the vicarage or remaining teinds to Rober- ton. Walter, the son of Alan, received the lands of Ilassendean from David I. David Scott, who lived in the middle of the 15th century, and was the eldest son of Sir William Scott of Kirknrd who exchanged Murdiston for Branxholm, was the first of the Scotts of Hassendean. Satcbell alludes to him iu the lines, — " Ilassendean c.ime wHliout t\ c.ill. Tlie iincientest liousu of lliuni all." >^ir Alexander Scott of Hassendean fell, in 1513, Mt the battle of Flodden. The lands of the original barony of Hassendean are now distributed into the estates of Hassendean-bank, Hassendean-burn, and Teviot-bank, and some lands belonging to the Duke of Bucclench. The tract of Hassendean is now in- tersected by the Hawick branch of the North British railway, and has a station on it, 4^ miles from Hawick, and 48^ from Edinburgh. The hamlet of Hassendean stands in the dell, about a mile from the Teviot. Population. 21. Houses, 4. HATHERSTAN-LAW, a mountain on the mu- tual border of the parishes of Lamington and Cul- ter, in Lanarkshire. HATTON. See Newtyle. HAUGH, a village in the parish of Mauchline, Ayrshire. Here is a woollen factory, which works chiefly in subordination to the carpet manufactory of Kilmarnock. Population, 79. HAUGH OF URR, a post-office village in the parish of Urr, Kirkcudbrightshire. It is situated on the Water of Urr, and on the road from Kirkcud- bright to Dumfries, 4 miles north-east of Castle- douglas. Population, '240. Houses, 54. HAUGH-HEAD, a post-office village in the par- ish of Campsie, Stirlingshire. Population, 328. Houses, 65. HAUGHMILL, a village in the parish of Mark- inch, Fifeshire. A flax spinning-mill was erected here in 1794, and enlarged in 1835; and a bleach- field was added in 183G. Population, 170. H AUSTEIl (Burs of), a li vulet of Caithness- shire. It collects its liead waters on the mutual border of flie parishes of Wick and Latheron, and runs about 8 miles north-eastward to the W^ater of Wick, at a point li mile above the town of Wick. HAVEN (East and West). See East Haven and West Haven. HAVERA. ^^ee Hevera. HAVERSAY. Sec Huacaoale. HAWICK, n parish, coutaiuiiig a post-town of its own name, in the south-west of Roxburghshire. It is bounded by Roberton, Wilton, Cavers, Kirkton, and Teviothend. Its extreme length, north-cast- ward, is nearly 6 miles; and its breadth is nearly 3 miles at the head, but gradually diminishes to a mere acute angle at the foot. Prior to 1850, the superficial area was computed at about 24 square miles or 15,360 imperial acres; but in that year there was annexed to the new parish of Teviothead more than two-thirds of that area. The " sweet and silver Teviot" runs along the entire length of the parish, receiving Borthwick water 2 miles above the town. The Slitrig comes in from the south, traces for 1} mile the boundary with Cavers, and then runs sinuously across the parish over a distance of lA mile, and falls into the Teviot at the town. Down the whole length of the parish, along the course of the Teviot, bending sinuously with the stream, stretches a valley pressed throuuhout into narrow limits by overhanging heights, beautified in every part and greatly enriched as to both soil and vegetation by the sparkling progress of the river, and set in an upland frame-work remarkable for the graceful forms and the verdant clothing of its sum- mits. The bottom of the valley is throughout loamy and luxuriant, frilled or dotted with plantation, car- peted with w'aving crops of grain, or mirthful and picturesque with the rival enterprises of agriculture aiid manufacture; and at several stages of its long and narrow progress, it embosoms or spreads out to the view objects and scenes which have been cele- brated in story and awarded with the outpourings of song. Another vale — of brief length compared with the former — follows the course of the Slitrig, paving the bed of that stream with rough stones and de- clivitous shelves, pressing in upon it at times with high and almost perpendicular banks of bare rock, garlanded or capped with young wood, and present- ing altogether an aspect of mingled wildness, seclu- sion, beauty, and romance. While passing along the valleys southward or eastward, respectively toward Dumfries-shire or toward Liddesdale, a tourist, tliough never indulged with more than a limited view, is delighted and surprised at very brief inter- vals by the constantly changing beauties and vari- eties of the landscape, and all around is environed with chains and congeries of hills, delightfully vari- egated in form and dress, presenting an endless gra- dation of aspect. The soil, in the haughs, is a mixture of loam, gravel, and sand; on rising grounds, between the valleys and the hills, is loam with occasionally a mixture of gravel; and on the hills is, in some places, light and dry, in some soft and spongy, and in others wet and stiff. All the high-lying wet lands have either been or are at present in the course of being thoroughly drained. Moss and heath occur only in small patches. The valleys and their adjacent ris- ing grounds, though not thickly carpeted with soil, are far from being unfertile ; and the hills, where not cultivated to the summit, are everywhere an excel- lent sheep walk. Rather moi-e than one fourth of the whole area of the parish is in tillage; about 200 acres are underwood; and all the rest, with de- ductions for roads and the sites of the town and scattered buildings, is in pasture. The estimated average yearly value of raw produce in the years preceding 1839, which of course applied to the old uncurtailed parish, was £19,800. 'JMie yearly value of assessed real property in that parish in 1843 was £12.922; and in the new or curtailed pariah in 1863, £29,346. The principal antiquities in the landward districts are the towers of Goldielands and Branx- iioi.M, which we have already noticed in their own alphabetical place. The Edinburgh and Carlisle HAWICK. 51 HAWICK. post-road enters the parish at the foot of the town ; it then rans 2 miles along the right bank of the Teviot, and crosses to the left; and it then runs 4 miles along the left bank. The road into England through Liddesdale diverges from the former within tlie town ; and runs up the valley of the Slitrig, a third of the way on the right bank of the stream, and two thirds on the left till it leaves the parish. The post-road from Hawick to Kelso and Berwick fol- lows the course of the Teviot. In the lower part of the parish are two other roads, one leading due south, the other due east, and both diverging from the town. The Hawick branch of the North Brit- ish railway does not enter the parish, j'et has its terminus adjacent to the town. A project was some time ago entertained of a railway from Edin- burgh to Hexham, crossing the Teviot about 4 miles to the east of Hawick ; but this project seems to have been abandoned. Population of the parish in 1831, 4,970; in 1861, 8,726. Houses, 629. The increase of the population is attributable to the ex- tension of the woollen manufactures. This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, about £300; glebe, £62. Unappropriated teinds, £636 16s. Id. The old parish church, now used as a chapel of ease, was built in 1764, and contains 704 sittings. A new parish church was lately completed at the expense of the Duke of Buccleuch, and contains 1,500 sittings. The Free church was built soon after the disruption in 1843, and contains 1,000 sittings; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £456 Os. ^^A. There are three United Presbyterian churches, — tlie West End church, built in 1823 and contain- ing 639 sittings; the East Bank church, built a year or two ago to supersede an old one, containing 752 sittings; and AUars church, built in 1811, and containing 750 sittings. The other places of worship are an Independent chapel, built in 1836, and containing 300 sittings; a Baptist meeting- house; a Morrisonian chapel, recently erected; a Roman Catholic chapel, built in 1843; and a Quakers' meeting-house, built in 1822, but not now frequented. The parochial school is conducted by three male teachers; and has attached to it a salary of £33, with school fees, and £19 other emoluments. There are 12 non -parochial schools conducted by 6 male and 6 female teachers, and attended on the average by 1,400 scholars. — The parish is probably as ancient as the date of the Saxon settlement. The church was, in 1214, dedicated to St. Mary, and, previous to the Reformation, was a rectory. The edifice, long after the Scottish canons had pro- hibited such an abuse, was employed not only as a place of worship, but as a court house; and it was occupied for the discharge of county business by the sheriff, during the period of the English liaving possession of the castle and town of Roxburgh. In 1342, while William Ramsay, one of the most gallant men of the age, was here seated on the bench, he was seized by William Douglas, the knight of Liddesdale, carried off to Hermitage castle, and there starved to death in solitary con- finement. HAWICK, a post-town, a burgh of regality, and an important seat of manufacture and of inland traffic, is situated at the confluence of the Teviot and the Slitrig, 10 miles south-west of Jedburgh, 1 1 south-east by south of Selkirk, 20 north of New Castleton, 20 south-west of Kelso, 24 nortli-north- east of Langholm, 43 south-west of Berwick, and 50 by road, but 53 by railway, south-east by south of Edinburgh. Till the opening of the North Brit- ish railway, it was one of the most landlocked towns in Scotland, being distant from the sea at its nearest point 43 miles. In 1850, when the railway to Berwick was completed, Hawick was for the first time placed on a level with the towns previously more favoured in point of intercommunication. The Teviot approaches the town in a north- easterly direction, makes a beautiful though small bend opposite the upper part of it, and then resumes and pursues its north-easterly course. Just after it has completed the bend, the Slitrig comes down upon it from the south at an angle of about 50 degrees; but, opposite the bend of the Teviot, is not far from being on a parallel line. Either the curv- ing reach of the Teviot, or the crook made by the confluence with it of the Slitrig, seems, in combina- tion with an adjacent house or hamlet, to have suggested the name Hawick, — ha or haw, a man- sion or village, and wic or wick, the bend of a stream or the crook or confluence of the rivers. The town adapts its topographical arrangement almost entirely, and even very closely, to the course of the streams, and to the angle of their confluence; and maintains a delightfully picturesque seat upon both, amidst a somewhat limited but magnificent hill-locked landscape. The Slitrig approaches the Teviot with a narrow plain, immediately backed by hills on the further bank, and with an abrupt and considerable acclivity fiilling off in a fine slope on the hither bank ; and the Teviot, coming down in a narrow and sylvan vale, begins, when it touches the town, to fold out its banks into a limited haugh, framed on the extei'ior with sloping ascents, and somewhat acclivitous but beautifully rounded verd- ant hills. The town occupies all the narrow vale on the right bank of the Slitrig, and all the summit as well as the slope toward the Teviot of the high ground on its left bank; and, aided by its "common haugh," or public burgli ground, and by its suburb of Wilton, it likewise stretches over all the little haugh of the Teviot, and mounts the softer rising eminences on the back ground. Both up and down the latter stream, also, it sends off environs of no ordinary attraction, — here extensive nursery grounds, there tufts of grove and lines of plantation casting their shade upon luxuriant fields, and yonder a factory busy in industrious pursuits, yet sequestered and tranquil in appearance, and com- bining — as the rural aspect and the pure air and the bright sky ir.dicate the town itself to do — the athletic and productive toils of factorial industry, with the healthful habits and the puacefulness of almost a pastoral life. Seen from almost any point of view, but especially from the Edinburgh road, where it comes over the brow of the hill beyond the Teviot, Hawick and its environs spread out a pic- ture of loveliness to the eye which the mere imagin- ation would have in vain tried to associate with tlie seat of a great staple manufacture, or with any other town than one whose site had been selected by taste, and whose ai-rangements liad been made with a view to poetical effect. J^ntering the town on the Kelso road from the north-east, a stranger finds himself in the principal street. A short way on, a new and neatly built though short street comes in at an acute angle on his right hand, bringing down the Edinburgh and Carlisle post-road. The main street now runs along parallel to the Teviot, with no other winging on that side than back-tenements and orief alleys, and sending off on the other side two streets, called Melgund Place and Wellgate, till it passes on the same side, first the town hall, and a little farther on, the Tower inn, and is terminated by two houses which disperse it into divergent thoroughfares. A street, at this point, breaks away on the east, up tiie HAWICK. D-2 HA^^aCK. nght bank of the Slitrijr, disclosinjr, in a snug and almost romantic position, a curved and beautifully edificed terrace called the descent. A bridge, carried otF, at tiie coinmenceincnt of this street, leads across the Slitrig, to an eminence surmounted by the old parish church. Another bridge, spacious and of modern structure, spans the Slitrig nearer the Teviot, and carries across the continuation of the Edinburgh and Carlisle post-road. From its farther end, Teviot Square runs westward to communicate by a bridge across the Teviot with the suburb of Wilton; another street, called the Howgate, diverges in the opposite direction, and after ascend- ing the rising ground, splits into three sections, called the Back, the Middle, and the Fore Kovv, whicii again unite and form what is called the Loan; and the main thorouglifare, containing the post-road, runs right forward, lined with new and elegant houses, and adorned at its extremity with the beautiful new parish church. The earliest notice of the place which has been discovered is contained in the chartulary of the mon- astery of Melrose, where the church of Hawick is stated to have been dedicated by the Hishop of Caith- ness in 1214, in honour of the Virgin Mary. The learned Chalmers, however, in his Caledonia, assigns it a much higher antiquity. In the earliest record extant, (the Scottish Kolls,) the barony of Hawick is stated to have been held by Kieliard Lovel Domi- nus de Hawic and his ancestors for time immemorial from the Crown. This was in 1347. Subsequently the barony appears, by a grant of King David 11., to have been vested in Maurice de Moravia, Earl of Strathearn. In the reign of James I., as is proved by a charter of that monarch granted at Croydon, I while a captive in England, written with his own hand, and now in possession of the Duke of Buc- cleuch, tiie barony was confirmed to Douglas of Drumlanrig, the ancestor of the Dukes of Queens- berry and Buccleuch. The original deed erecting the town into a burgh has not been discover<;d. In the oldest charter extant, granted by James Douglas of Dmmlanrig in 1537, the ancient records are stated to have been destroyed by the hostile incursions of the English and thieves ; and to supply the defect tlius occasioned he re-erects the town into a free burgh-of-barony, stipulating merely that a lamp of oil should be supported by the grantees in the church of Hawick in all time thereafter on holidays, in honour of our Saviour and for the souls of the barons of Hawick. This charter was confirmed in very ample form by the guardians of Queen Mary in 1545, wherein the important services rendered to the Crown by the inhabitants are acknowledged, — al- luding, it is supposed, particularly to the battle of Flodden, where the fighting men were nearlv exter- minated. Under these charters, and a decree of the court of session in 1781, regulating the set of the burgh, the town exists altogether independent of the superior, the burgesses having right to choose their own magistrates and councillors. The corporation consists of 2 bailies chosen annually, 15 councillors chosen for life, and 14 other councillors termed quartermasters, chosen yearly by 7 trades, making in all 31 persons. _ From its frontier position Hawick was in earlv times exposed in a peculiar degree to the constant incursions of tlie English. Accordingly we find that it was burnt by Sir Robert Umfraville, vice- admiral of England, so early as 1418. Again in 1544 and 1570, it suffered severely; and it is believed to have been burnt down on various other occasions. It has also suffered from inundations; one in August 17C7 having carried off 15 dwelling-houses aiul a mill, and another in July, 1846, created much alarm. although less disastrous. The inhabitants had a high reputation for martial valour; and the great loco-descriptive poet of Te^iotdale, Leyden, is be- lieved to have done them no more than justice in these well-known verses; — "Roast! Hawick, boast! ttiy .structures rear'd in blood Sliall rise triumphant over flame and Hood; Still doom'd to prosper, since on Floddcn's tield Thy sons a hardy band, unwont to yield, Fell with their martial King, and (glorious boast!) Giiin'd prouil renown where Scotia's Came was lost." The general appearance of the town has of late years been greatly improved. Besides the erection of entirely new streets, uniformly edificed, or pleas- ingly diversified, with a rivalry of taste in the stnic- ture of the houses, many old tenements with their thatched roofs or thick walls, and clumsy donjon- looking exterior, have been substituted by airv and neat buildings, accordant in their aspect with modern taste. Villas also are springing up in the vicinity. In the unrenovated parts the town still presentsa rough and clownish exterior; but as a whole, it can- not oft'end even a fastidious eye. All its edifices are constracted with a hard bluish-coloured stone, which does not admit of polish or minute adorning, yet pleases by its suggestions of chasteness and its indi- cations of durability and strength. But though light- ed up at night with gas, and always clean and airy, and in other respects tasteful, the town utterly disappoints a stranger by its poverty in suitable public buildings. Excepting the handsome bridge which carries tiie Edinburgh road across the Teviot, the elegant new parish church, the Catholic chapel, and the recently improved town-house, it contains not one public edifice on which the eye can rest with satisfaction. All the places of worship, too, with the exceptions already mentioned, are, in the aggregate, plainer than the average of any equal number in the seclu- ded villages or sequestered valle)'s of the country. The principal or Tower inn, however, strongly ar- rests attention, if not for architectural elegance, at least for its spaciousness, its imposing appearance, and especially its connexion with antiquity. Part of it was an ancient fortress of a superior order, sur- rounded with a deep moat drawn from the Slitrig, and originally the residence of the barons of Drum- lanrig, the superiors of the town. At a later period, it was the scene of the princely festivities of Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Monmouth. This build- ing connects modern and ancient Hawick, having been the only edifice which escaped the several fear- ful devastations to which the town was subjected. The winnowing-machine or cornfanner, according to the statement of the writer in the Old Statistical Account, first made its appearance in Hawick. " Andrew Roger," he says, " a farmer on the estate of Cavers, having a mechanical turn, retired from his farm and gave his genius its bent ; and probably from a description of a machine of that kind, used in Holland, in the year 1737, constructed the first ma- chine-fan employed in this kingdom." This in- genious person, it seems, pushed a considerable trade in the article of his manufacture, and bequeathed it to his descendants; and when the reporter wrote, they made and disposed of about 60 in the year, and found a market for manj' of them in England. Until about a century ago, the to\m appears to have had little traffic of any importance, in 1752, however, the manufacture of carpets was com- menced, and from that time the town dates the com- mencement of its prosperity and extension. This was followed in 1771 by the introduction of the stocking manufacture, commenced bj^ Bailie John Hardie, and afterwards more extensively carried on by Mr. John Mixon. The inkle manufacture ^xas HAWICK. 53 HAWICK. introduced in 1783; and the manufacture of cloth in 1787. At first the woollen yarn used was spun by the hand; but about 1787 machinery was introduced, which has gone on gradually extending ever since ; and at the present time all the modern mechanical appliances are in operation. In a recent publication (1850) the following statistical table of the trade is given :— COMPARATIVE VIEW OF THE TRADE OF HAWICK, 1771- ]8o0. 1838. 1. Carding mi^ls, 2. Engines or scribbling macliines, 3. Spinning jennies, 4. Annual consumption of wool, 5. Quantity of yarn manufactured, (i. Number of stocking frames, 7. Number of stockings made, S. Articles of under-clothing, i). Number of weaving looms. 1850. 11 ■ 2,000 pairs. 3.500 pairs lambs') wool — 600 pairs J- 44 100 (hand) 12,00.1 stones of 24 lbs. 290.000 lbs. 510 328.000 -:. (one of which partly (6 of which watei ( by steam.) and steam.) f 106 engines, or \ 53 sets. 108,162 St. of 24 lbs. value £65,000. 854,462 lbs. 1,209 1,049,676 pairs.* 2.016,000 lbs.t value £142.100. 1,209,600 lbs. 1,200 10. Number of operatives, 11. Quantity of soap consumed, 12. Annual amount of wages, 13. Value of property employed in'l_ manufactures, . . ) 14. Value of manufactures, .15. Quantity of coal consumed, 16. Popul.it"ion, ... P. 5 men 6 women. 14 men 51 women. 1,044 T. 2,320 Since that time two additional mills have been erected, and the trade in general greatly increased, particularly in the article of tweeds, which are manufactured to a very great extent, one individual being the most extensive tweed merch.ant in Scot- land. Steam power has been largely taken advan- tage of of late years, water-power being no longer obtainable. But, excepting those trades common to all provincial towns, the woollen manufacture may be considered as engrossing the entire industry and capital of Hawick. There are indeed the tanning of leather, the dressing of sheep-skins, and tiie manufacture of leather thongs; but these are not carried on to any considerable extent. The old architecture of the town, remarkable chiefly for its houses vaulted below with stone stairs outside projecting into the streets, has now almost entirely disappeared; and much of the town is new and elegant, much is renovated and neat, and all, in a general view, is pleasing. The opening of the railway to Edinburgh, with branch communica- tion to Kelso and Berwick, and then the opening, continuously with this, of the railway to the south, with two forks going respectively to Carlisle and to Newcastle, have greatly accelerated a general im- provement which, even for some years before, had been marked and rapid. Hawick possesses few anti- quities ; but these have some interest. The Mote, primarily the place of sepulture probably of an arch- druid or chieftain long before the introduction of Christianity, and subsequently the forum where justice was dispensed, is situated at the end of the town, on a conspicuous spot of rising ground. It is in a conical form, 30 feet high, 117 feet in circum- ference at the top, and 312 at the base. It would appear to have been the place where all the religious ceremonies were performed, — the Beltane fires, among the rest, which occurred yearly in May ; and it would thus be a spot commanding the reverential regard of the natives. In the vicinity of tlie town also passes the Catrail: which see. The only * The statement in the Encyclopaedia Britannica. Article Scot- l.iiul, published in 1841 or 1842, specifying 500,000 pairs as the annual production, is undoubtedly erroneous. t The wool consumed is now of much finer quality than in 1838. 12,552 226 ( 1,788 \ (besides females.) 102.899 lbs. £48.726 £101.861 £140,000 T. 3,084 in 1821. T. 5,306 120,000 f 268 power \ and hiind-looms. 3,465 207.378 lbs. £81,650 £185,616 £280,904 10.000 tons. T. 8,800 in 1845. Other ancient remain was the bridge having a ribbed arch crossing the Slitrig, supposed to have been co- eval with the church erected in 1214; but this was removed in 1851 to make way for a more commodious structure. Hawick has the merit of instituting the first Farmers' club in Scotland. This was in 1770. The first Sabbath school in Scotland is also said to have been established here about 35 years ago. There is an excellent library, established in 1762, now con- taining 4,000 volumes ; and another supported by tradesmen, containing between 1,000 and 2,0(hi volumes. The town has offices of the British Linen Company's Bank, the Commercial Bank, the Koyal Bank, and the National Bank, a number of insur- ance agencies, a mechanics' institute, a savings' bank, a clothing society, several benefit societies, and some other institutions. Gas light was intro- duced about 25 years ago. The general polioe act, 3 & 4 William IV., cap. 4(3. was first adopted in 1845, and is found, by enabling the commissioners to impose assessments, to be highly beneficial. In virtue of this statute, courts are held daily when re- quii-ed for the trial of petty offences. The other ordinary criminal jurisdiction of the bailies, as well as their civil jurisdiction, is identical with that ex- ercised by the magistrates in royal burghs. The justices of peace, who exercise a cumulative juris- diction, also try petty off'ences ; and the sheriff sits once in two months for the summary despatch of causes not exceeding £12 in amount. Markets for cattle and for hiring servants are held on the 17th of May and on the 8th of November ; for sheep on the 20th and 21st of September: and for horses and cattle on the third Tuesday of October. A market for hiring hinds and herds is held gene- rally on the first, second, and third Thursdays of April ; a wool fair in July, on the first Thursday after St. Boswell's Fair ; and a sheep fair, at which from 2,000 to 3,000 Cheviots are generally shown, on the 20th and 21st of September, or the Tuesday after if the 20th falls on a Saturday. Hawick tryst is held on the third Tuesday of October, where some young horses, and a few Highland cattle from the Falkirk tryst, are shown. A winter cattle market is held on the 8th of November, or on Tuesday after, if the HAWICK. 54 HAWKHEAD. 3th falls on a Saturday, Sunday, or Monday. Till 1778 no regular corn "market existed in the town ; but one was, in that year, estahlishedhy the Farmers' club. Not only in this matter, but in others of a similar natuic,'and in most things bearing on agri- cultural improvement, the Farmers' club has been a vigilant, active, and highly useful association. The club holds its meetings on the first Thursday of eveiy month. A kindred association of wider range and more powerful influence owes its paternity to the patriotic and enlightened James Douglas, Esq. of Cavers, and was formed in the town in 1835, under the patronage of the Duke of Buccleuch. This association — the Agricultural society for the west of Teviotdale — includes in its sphere of action 13 paiishes, and holds an annual general meeting in Hawick on the first Thursday of August. A school of Arts originating in the same judicious and bene- volent quarter as the Agricultural society, was es- tablished in 1824, and has procured the delivery of several courses of lectures. Two reading and news rooms, which enrich the town, are liberally con- ducted, and possess appliances equal to the best in almost any town in Scotland. A plentiful supply of water has, at diffcrentperiods, been brought into the town, at the expense of the corporation, by whom also the wells are kept in good repair. The middle of the principal street, which has of late been macadamized, and forms a part of the turnpike road, is kept in repair at the expense of the road trustees. A sum is annually granted by the statute labour trustees, from the statute labour- fund of the parish of Hawick, towards keeping the ])aved streets and bye-lanes in repair; but owing to the circumstance of one of the magis trates only being, ex-officio, a trustee upon the public roads, the power of the magistrates, with relation to the repairs of the streets and lanes, is very lim- ited; and in consequence, these are not in good order. — The property of the burgh consists in the common moor and common haugh of Hawick, cer- tain superiorities, the town-house, an adjoining dwelling house, and the water works ; and in 18oU it was valued as follows : — 1. Land rents, £384 ,at 30 years purchase, . £11.520 '2. Feu duties. £63 at "25 years imrcliase, . 1,57-5 3 Small rents and cattlestent, £74 at 20 years liurcliMse, ..... 1.480 4. Water-duU-, £32, «t 20 years purchase, . 640 £15,215 The debt amounted to £940, and is now £1,850. The revenue in 1853 was £725 ; and the expendi- ture including the annual grant towards the police of the burgh of £150, was £677, thus exhibiting a surplus of £48. On the last Friday of May, old style, a procession, consisting of the magistrates on horseback, and a large multitude of the burgesses and inhabitants on foot, and graced with the banner of the town, the copy of an original which is tradi- tionally reported to have been taken from the Eng- lish soon after the battle of Flodden, moves along the boundaries of the royalty greeted by the hilari^ ous demonstrations of "youths and children, and ostensibly describing th"e limits of their property, and publicly asserting their legal rights ; thus very idly and childishly perpetuating the ancient an"d once necessary practice of " riding the marches." Several eminent men have adorned the town. Among these may be named Gawyn Douglas, rector of the parish in "l496, and bishop of Dunkeld, the translator of Virgil's Encid, although doubts have lately been started as to the good Bishop's connec- tion with the place. William Fowler, who held the incumbency in the reign of James VI,. and was secretary to his Queen, was a scholar and poet of no mean reputation. General Elliot, created Lord Heathfield, the heroic defender of Gibraltar, Admiral John Elliot of Minto, the conqueror of Thurot, and Miss Jane Elliot, his sister, authoress of the Flowers of the Forest, Gilbert Elliot, first Earl of Minto, Govemor-General of India, and William Elliot of Wells, M.P. for I'eterboiough, private secretary for Ireland, both eminent statesmen, and Dr. John Leyden, one of our best modern poets, were all boin in the immediate neighbourhood, as was also (ren eral Simpson, the present commander of the British forces in the Crimea, who, with the Elliots just named, are all sprung from the House of Stobs. Dr. Thomas Somer\'ille, author of the Histor}' of the reign of Queen Anne and other works, was a native of the place ; and Samuel Charters, author of admir- able sermons and other ivorks, characterized by Dr. Chalmers as the most interesting Scottish clergyman of his time, was fifty-two years minister of ^^ ilton, which includes a suburb of the town. In conclusion, it may be stated that Hawick is now a very thriving place, taking the lead in that cluster of towns on the Border, engaged in the woollen trade, comprising Jedburgh, Kelso, Earl- ston, Galashiels, Selkirk, Langholm, Innerleithen, and Dumfries ; and it is steadily increasing in trade and importance. Further information may be ob- tained from Annals of Hawick, by James Wilson, published in 1850, and Companion thereto published in 1854. Population of the town, exclusive of the Wilton suburb, in 1841, 5,718; in 1861, 8,138. Houses, 54U. Population of the Wilton suburb in 1841,52; in 1801.53. Houses, 6. The population of the whole town at present (1861), is 1,891. Houses, 652. HAWICK, the most southerly of the four districts or political subdivisons of Eoxburghshire. Its length southward is 27 J miles ; and its greatest breadth is 20A miles. It comprehends the Kox- burghshire parts of the parishes of Selkirk, Ash- kirk, and Koberton, and the whole of the parishes of Wilton, Hawick, Castleton, Cavers, Teviothead, Kirkton, and Minto. Population in 1831, 12,342 ; in 1851, 16,095. Houses, 1,822. HAWICK KAILWAY. See North British Railway. HAWKHALL. See Forgle. HAWKHEAD, an estate in the Abliey parish of Paisley, about 2 miles south-east of that town, on the left bank of the White Cart. It anciently be- longed to a family named Eoss, who were raised to the peerage about the year 1503, under the title of Baron Eoss of Hawkhead. The title became extinct on the death of William, 13th Lord Eoss, in 1754; and the estate devolved, first, on his eldest sister, Mrs. Eoss Mackye, and afterwards on another sister, Elizabeth, widow of John Boyle, 3d Earl of Glas- gow. On her ladyship's death, in 1791, the estate was inherited by her son, George, 4th Earl of Glas- gow ; and in 1815 the title of Baron Eoss of Hawk- head, a peer of the United Kingdom, was revived in his favour. Hawkhead house is an irregular pile, oi which Ciawfurd says: " This fabric is built in the form of a court, and consists of a large old tower, to which there were lower buildings added in the reign of King Charles I., by James, Lord Eoss, and Dame Margaret Scott, his lady, and adonied with large orchards, fine gardens, and pretty terraces, with regular and stately avenues fionting the said castle, and almost surrounded with woods and en- closures, which adds much to the pleasure of this seat." This was one of the earliest attempts made in Renfrewshire to introduce the Dutch style of gardening, and toconstmct low buildings approach- HA.WKLEinMOOR. 00 HEBRIDES. ing to the modem fashion, in addition to the high castellated places of defence which anciently formed the habitations of the nobility and gentiy. Very little alteration was made upon the plnce from Craw- furd's time till 1782, when the Countess-dowager of Glasgow greatly repaired and improved the house, and formed a new garden, consisting of nearly 4 acres, a short distance to the south. Tiie estate is still finely adorned with trees. — Law, in his ' Memorialls,' has recorded as one of tlie memorable events in his time, that in October, 1681, when Scotland was under the administration of the Duke of York, afterwards King James II., his royal highness " dined at the Halcat with my Lord Ross." — For notice of minerals wranght in this quarter, see Hurlet. HAWKLEYMOOR, the upper part of Sinclair- town in the parish of Dysart, Fifeshire. Its popula- tion is about 500. See Sinclaietown. HAWKSTONE, a village in the parish of St. Madoes, Perthshire. Population, 51. Houses, 11. See LuNCARTY. HAVVTHORNDEN, the seat of Sir James Walk- er Drummond, in the parish of Lasswade, Edin- burghshire. The house stands on the south bank of the North Esk, amidst exquisitely picturesque and romantic scenery, and contributes, in its own figure and in the fine grounds which surround it, interesting features to the warmly tinted landscape. Constructed with some reference to strength, it surmounts to the very edge a grey cliff which, at one sweep, rises perpendicularly up from the river. "The spot is wild, the banks are steop, AVith eglantine and hawthorn blossom'd o'er, Lyclinis, and daffodils, and hare-bells blue: From lofty granite crafrs precipitous. The oak, with scanty footing, topples o'er. Tossing his limbs to heaven; and, from the cltft. Fringing the dark-brown natural battlements. The hazel throws his silvery branches down: There, starting into view, a castled cliff. Whose roof is lichen'd o'er, purple and green. O'erhangs thy wandering stream, romantic Esk, And rears its head among the ancient trees." Beneath are several remarkable artificial caves, hol- lowed with prodigious labour out of the solid rock, communicating with one another by long passages, and possessing access to a well of vast depth bored from the court-yard of the mansion. The caves are reported by tradition, and believed by Dr. Stukeley, to have been a stronghold of the Pictish kings, and, in three instances, they bear the names respectively of the King's gallery, the King's bed-chamber, and the Guard-room; but they seem simply to have been hewn out, no person can tell by whom, as places of refuge during the destructive wars between the English and the Picts, or the English and the Scots; and during the reign of Da-v-id II., when the English were in possession of Edinburgh, and strove to deal death to Scottish valoui", they and the adjacent caves of Gorton gave shelter to the adventurous band of the heroic Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie. Hawthornden was the property and residence of the celebrated poet and historian, AVilliam Drummond, the friend of Shakspeare and Ben Johnson. A sort of seat cut in the face of the rock adjoining the house, and called Cypress grove, is pointed out by tradition as the place where he composed many of his poems. Ben Johnson journeyed on foot from London to spend some weeks with him at Haw- thornden. Dnimmond was zealously attached to the cause of Charles I., and is said to have sunk in health, and been crushed to the grave, by the blow from the unhappy monarch's fate. A profusion of beautiful wood in the opulent landscape around the house, suggested to Peter Pindar the caustic remark respecting Dr. Samuel Johnson, that he " Went to Hawthornden's fair scene by night. Lest e'er a Scottish tree should wound his sight." HAYLAND (Loch of), a lake, about IJ mile long, in the centre of the parish of Dunnet, Caith- ness-shire. It sends off its superfluent waters, by the Corsback burn, 4 miles northward to the Pent- land frith. HAYOCK. See Stea-exston. HAYSTONE. See Glenpax. HAZELBANK, a village in the parish of Lesma hago, Lanarkshire. Population, 311. HAZELHEAD. See Beith and Newhills. HEACAMHALL. See Uist (Sodth). HEADS. See Glassford. HEADS OF AYR, two or three precipitous rocky projections, about 200 feet high, running out from Brown Carrick hill into the sea, in the north of the parish of Maybole, Ayrshire. They flank the south side of the bay of Ayr, or mouth of the basin of the Doon. They consist of a black, earthy, tufaceous trap, traversed at one part by a thick, hard, basaltic vein. HEADSHAW LOCH, a small lake, containing excellent marl, in the parish of Ashkirk, about a mile north of the village of Ashkirk, Roxburghshire. It sends off its superfluence eastward to the Ale HEADSTONE. See Glekcross. HEATHER-STACKS. See Forfab. HEATHERWICK. See Dunbar HEATHET. See Canoxbie. HEATHFIELD. See Garnkirk. HEBRIDES (The) or Western Islands, a laige elongated group of islands, isles, and islets, flanking nearly the whole west coast of Scotland. They were called by the ancients Hebridae, Hebudes, -^budse, and JEmodse. The ancient Hebrides, how- ever, comprehended also the islands and islets in the frith of Clyde, the peninsula of Kintyre or part of the mainland of Argyleshire south of the Lochs Tarbert, the isle of Rachlin off the north-east coast of Ireland, and even the island of Man and the islets contiguous to it, in the centre of the Irish sea; while the modern Hebrides comprehend onh' the islands, isles, and islets extending from 55° 35' to 58° 37' north latitude, and lying westward of the peninsula of Kintyre on the south, and of the main land of Scotland in the middle and on the north. The Hebrides, thus defined, are, for the most part, disposed in groups, yet not, in every case, with distinctness of aggregation, or without leaving particular islets to stand in doubt as to the group to which they belong. On the south, opposite Kintyre and Knapdale, lies the Islay and Jura group. The most southerly individuals of it are Gigha and a trivial islet near its southernmost point ; both stretch- ing north and south near the coast of Kintv're, and screening the entrance to Loch Tarbert from a south-west wind. On a line with Gigha to the west, but three times farther from it than Gigha is from the peninsula, commences the large island of Islay; and though not elongated in its own form, it has "resting on its north-east side, with the interven- tion of the narrow strait or sound bearing its own name, the base of the slenderly pyramidal figure of Jura, and is so continued by that island as to form with it a stretch of territory extending from the south-west to the north-east, and separated, in the Jura part of it, from the districts of Knapdale and Lorn, on the mainland, by the sound of Jura. West of Jura, north-west of the sound of Islay, and north of the island of Islay, lie the islets Oronsay and Co- lonsay. North of Jura, and pretty near the coast of HEBRIDES. 56 HEBRIDES. Lorn, Scarba, Seal, EasJale, and various oilier islets, form a chain wliicli lielonjis peographicallj', in its southern end, to the Islay and Jura group, and in its northern end to the Mull group, but which strictly connects them, and might over its whole length be pronounced independent. West of the northern part of this chain, or opposite the districts of Lorn and Appin, and along the whole south-west coast of the district of Morvern, but separated from it by the narrow stripe of water called the Mull sound, lies the large island of Mull. On its east side, in the mouth of Loch-Linnhe, stretches Lismore; near its south-west limb, is lona ; in a deep broad bay on its west side lie Ulva, Gometra, Staffa, and some other islets; due west, at a considerable distance, lies Tiree; and on the north-west, not so far from Mull, is Coll. — Tiree and Coll forming in their elongated shape and continuous position, a stretch of territory extending from the south-west to the north-east. Inmiediately north of Mull, the long promontory of Ardnamurchan runs out into the sea, and so far intervenes between the two Hebridean groups we have noticed, as, if not strictly to separate them from the groups on the north, at least to give fair occasion for their being respectively designated the southern and the northern Hebrides. The Skye group lies in general very near tlie coast, and flanks the whole of the little continental districts of Moidart, Arisaig, ilorar, Glenelg, Kintail, Lochalsli, Applecross, and Gairloch. Commencing a little north of the point of Ardnamurchan, and at a greater distance west of the district of Moidart, Muck. P>ig, Kum, Sandy, and Canna form, with the intei-vention of tvro consideralile belts and two thin stripes of sea. a stretch of territory extending from the south-east to the north-west. Nortliward of it, and verv slenderly detached by sea from the districts of Glenelg and Kintail. stretches north-westward the very large island of Skye, — the largest in the Hebrides except the compound or double-named one of Harris and Lewis. IS'orth of Skye, commencing very close on its shore, and mnning direct north- ward between its north-western horn and the con- tinental district of Applecross, is a chain of islets, consisting of Scalpa, Kasay, and Rona. From a point nearly due west of Ardnamurchan, but at a great distance, to a point considerably west of Loch Inchard in Sutherlandshire, and, in its central part, westward of tlie island of Skye, and separated from it by the Little ilinch, extends curvingly from the south to the east of north, through an extent of 150 nailes, the largest and most compact of all the Hebri- dean groups, quite elongated and continuous in its form, and cut asunder from all other territory by a broad sea-belt, — that which is commonly designated the Long Island, is sometimes called the Western Hebrides, or the Outer Hebrides, and has, by some, been made to usurp the whole Hebridean name. At its soutliem point Bernera, Mingala, Pabba, Sandera. Muldonick. Vatersa, Barra, Fladda, Hellesa, Fudia, Linga, Eriska, and some other islets, are closely concatenated, and, as they have Barra for their mainland or monarch of the series, are usually called the Barra islands. Lnmediately on the north. with a profusion of islets in the sound which separates them, and a noticeable sprinkling of islets on their flanks, stretch continuously the islands of South Uist. Benbeeula, and North List. In the sound of Harris, north of North Uist, the series is continued by Borcra. Bernera, Killigra, Ensa, Pabba. and various other islets. From the north side of that sound, Harris and Lewis, the continuous part of one great island, the monarch one of the whole Hebrides, stretches away to the northern extremity of the group, flanked, in various parts of its progress, by Soalpa and numerous tiny islets on the east, and by Taransa, Scarpa, Berensa, and some smaller islets on the west. Far away to the west of the western extremity of Lewis, lies the desolate and pigmy group of St. Kilda, consisting of the islet St. Kilda itself, and its tiny attendants Levenish, Soa, and Borera. Classified geographically, tlie whole Hebrides thus consist of five groups; — three, or those of Islay, Mull, and Skye, of considerable and neai-ly equal bulk, close upon the coast, almost continuous and concatenated in their range, and flanking the con- tinent from the district of Kintyre to the district of Gairloch, — one gi^onp, so large in its proportions, or in the aggregate extent and the number of its isles, and so distinctive in its posiyted paifiaaealaaT bootjr, jiftU aafBiaaII]r a eoaeidenUe saaa. The dkens of Ae H^rides aad tihe ««slnii coast of Ae »jit»l«»J aeeaa, iadeed, tKx pieseaft as richly fmainhrf aad as finle a tshsB^^nnaail as Oe fiacr can weD naa^ac^ The heniai^-fi^ei^, however, wtieh is aataofallr the Bost iapeirtaaiy has agadetgoae flttaatiats so ^leat mad sadioi, firoaa caases so afttedjr h^oad the eoaAral or pmnsioxt of the fiuhma a ma , as to vender it a xw/r pcecarioos w w are e of dep eg d e nce. Dnia^ tihe tea or tareire jreaxs jmseeHmg 1940. m paitieahu; it andfanrrart a great aecfiaOk ^ la the New Statistieal Aeetmnt it is stated that, "' Barra has been ia funuat tiases maeh. fireqaented bv great shoals of henriags, liot its loehs are almost non-'entireljr descatted liir Aat asefiol fish."^ Of the parish of F!>rtreer in the Isbuid of Skye. it is stated tikat, "^ It is a anatter deeply to be regrened that the herria^fi^ierT in rh-i "nrter h^ been aaaeh oa tite deraae for s<:' - :ast; so so^ that ^Etmre ia litis bra :^rnr. ti with other eioses operating: kiju^iijiiily.has the ever-memorable destimtioa of the vears ISSSaad 1^37." Intheii; ;■---•'•'■' ■■ ■^•— ---^'-^d of Skye. we ne.' - ?- peared in prod: . - - - :!ie coast of the pansh, bac La itiil the ktdas. creeks, and bays of the island ; it then fimned an extensive and loerative scarce of traffic, and thehenefits derived frooi it by the conutry in general were very great. It was caught at comparatively little expense, as the BatiTes coold. for the most part, nuike their own nets aad reach their own homes. In every creek and baiy large fleets of sehioomeisy iicigs. sloops, wherries, aad boats of aD aies and deseziptions, were to be seea eaf^eriy oiga^ed ia tihe seenrang- of ^sh^ for wJiate faalBeB yaMofeairgoesferAes Maiih i eu iaaar- kets; now the irregnlar appearaneeof the ant^gatery fi^ together with the small qaamtities off it which fiteqnent. at the present day. its wonted haamts, have deprived the aadxres «£ one of their meek InexataTe sa ni ee a aff sap p t a t, and hare been iaaio small de- cree the meams of ndaeii^ the ledaadaatpefnlatHHi to poverty, and of m w ifiiiiiiiii rg; litem te» afie^ ^i^ sea- sons of destitution as those of 18S@ and 1837.'' The lebooad Stem thiis defnression was so great, theietaiB of large Aoak of h»rings in 1840 so sad&n, tibt the peofde veie atteiiy anipcepafed Sgr it, had bo« even eafk to eaore sadh hwrmss as feqr caagfat, aad coaid, ia most inrtaaees. FeaSae littile oAer ^vam- tage, fer tihat y«ar, than a temperarj iaerease. to mar owa imnieifSate supplies of food. Bafc ia lafen- years the fishery has been comparatrirely i^ialar aad good. Of the twenty-two fishery districts iato which the eoasts oi Sx&idtuni are divided, those of StoaaoMray, Laeh-Canron aad 3^re, Loeh-Sbid&g. Loeh-BtoCMMB, aed larefary, ««|M!eliezbd the Helnrides aad^tike western coast of the mainland; and the statistKa of the herring-fishery in these, for the year 1853;, were as feOowsr— Total aaml^ of barrels f£ herria^ eared, ia the Stoanowary fi^triet, IS^T; m the Loeb-Carroa and a^ye ffistiirt, 9i,351|; in die Loch-6hieldag district, 6.9134; im the Lot^Broam district, 4.797: and in the Inverary £siriei, 23vT39>; — total BHBiber of persons ^plirjred in Ae fishery la tibe Storaawaj £striet, 3yl96; ia Ob Loeh-Ckmm aad &Te district. 5.S'i9: in the Loch-ShieWag die tanet, l«»Iii); in the Loeh-itoiiMu disarict, 2.oSik>; asd ia the InTesaiy fisfcriet, 4,466;— total Tahae of boats, nets, aitd tiaes eaaployed in the fishery, in the Stor- noway £strict. SIGST^; in the Lioch-Chnoa and akye^&trieC, £20.634; in the Loeh-Shialdag £stariet. £5,982; in the Loch-Bkeeaa dblaiet, £as3s9; and in Idhe bnrerary detract, £37,196. As r^ards tb« other fineries of Ae Hebrides;, the ftOowi^ report of Mr. R. Grahaaa, addnesed to Mr. Foot Maafev in lSo7. gives a better ticv than eonld be afiiaded by a Tidiaanis of ereia laoce recent, heeaose ■ore aa eer tai n, iafbaaaatioat: — '^It is the opinmi el seaae people;, tibat lAe cod aad fiae and kftater fish- eries of the West Highlands aad^fanidB, ari{^ be waeh iBpaove^ by emeoarageaaent aad asaBtacnce, aadwoaJIdhea source of benefit to the tiaiantry and Ae people. This is a salfeet which has attracted pvbiie attention firom the tbae of Jaaaes T. donm- wards; and eierythii^ wbieh rojyal soppoat, aad the estab^Amea* of aseeiaticns. ccrpwrarionsi^ and boards coald efleei^has been dmae to proaao t e the lierriag-fidheiy-inpartieaiar. Kb faraneh cf indastry has repaid Idie eaeoaragement so iO, fiom its pieca- rions natare; and npon the wMtt it may be doubted, whether it can he eoBadeared as an ineieaar^ sonree of weaMk ia this eooatry. Its fiuhue^ generally on Ae west coasts, fiiir several years hack has had a -rerr snioas efifeet aqpoa Ae eircanBStaaees of Ae peofilie ■ and the nugratmg diameter of the fieh oa$^ to de- ter Ae keal fidhemen from trastii^ entirely to Aat one braa^ of the art. ntohahly, honrerer, ia many ataatioMsAe general wbat efiA er y aught he finAer impaoied by the coBBt«waw.e aad sampoat of Goiern- raeat smgly, or hy GoiemaaeBt oaijoiafly wiA the m ari t im e md iasaJar p r epaie t or sy thioa^ all parties shoald gnard again^ fiatteriag^ desci^tioaB of the coasts, as if the seas were everywhere faD of Ae finest fish, aad as if Ae demand eonid be paecared fer any amoauit of sappfy. Uariy aceounts rest on the idea that fiiA exi^ oa all the coasts; I have fbuad Ais fireqaendy coaitraffieted; Ae oreater part of Ae western coast of the Loag-ldaiM, fiom tbe Batare of Ae Aores and the Tiolaaee of the sea, is almost paeelnded fitoaa Ae posalnfity of beii^ fishied. Some oi what were fenMslj c^ma i de i cd the best statioas hanre gieathp Mkn eft. Gairloch was once a &moas statioa, bat fer the last ei^t years it has been anprodDetrre. Leeh-S^raomne;rerwasmachof a statioai, except for herrings, and there has not been a good fiAery there riacelSll. AtArisaig^Toiber- moay, llhra, and loan, it was alleged that Ae people were i n aet i re, and dSd not take Ae faD advantage of their ofHHatnniti^ of fishing. The parishes of KiQ^ arid Lochs were the only poriinas of the Lewis whidi seamed to he etmadered as &Toiitable statioBs; Aere is said to be none in Harris; and l*'»»i*»ilig' and Barra were Ae only ftronrable points ^Mibmto in the hoathe i n portionsof Ae Long-Island There are none of Aese statifms where the fisheries eoald be ana^ advanced, bat by asastanee in pm>. earing fer Ae inhabitants boats and tadde, and per- haps the example of a few more paaetised fishermen than thoaadves; Int it migfat lie an olgeet of great importance to have Ae soiiriffings more eadtennveljr ascertained, oa the west coast of Scotland and north- ' west of Ireland, to ahamr Ae fiAing-banks. The piers and quays woold'be an improvement at many of the statioos.'' The Hdhridra may le said, wiA Ae ezceprtion of a littBe fcuittia^ and now that Ae making of kdp has aeariy ceased, to havealaMHt nomanaCMtare; and, wiA the excepthm of harterii^ Ae prodaee of the sea, Ae mime, the nataral aviary, and Ae Umit- ed sotL for Ae wares of more ft vonrahly atnatcd HEBRIDES. 61 HEBRIDES. coininunities, to have no commerce. Projects for establishing regular manufactories at Tobermory were made dependent on the unplastic, intractable, and slow-moving inhabitants of Mull tor the supply of workmen, and braved the competition not only of Glasgow, but of the favoured though clumsy native manufacturers; and they, in consequence, failed. An attempt of Mr. Campbell of Islay to introduce the weaving of book-muslin on his property, by im- porting some families from Glasgow, providing them with cottages, and placing around them, in a locality where provisions are cheap, the appliances of a man- ufacturing colony, was well made and duly prolonged, but did not succeed. The spinning of yarn, at one time, formed a staple in Islay. and continued to pros- per till superseded by the Glasgow manufactuiies. While it flourished it employed all the women on the island, and produced for exportation so much as £10,000 worth of yarn in a year. The distillation of whisky in its illicit form was, for a long time, so ex- tensive as to have all the business of a great manu- facture, with little else than the effect of a great power of demoralization, but happily has now for many years l^een nearly extinct, while the distilla- tion, in a legal form, in large distilleries, is carried on. at least in Islay, with the results of a productive manufacture, accompanied by no other effects than such as belong elsewhere to distillation in even the most favourable circumstances. All the other manufactures of the Hebrides — or what, in the absence of better, must be called such — are of remarkably patriarchal and simple character. Clusters ot twenty or more farmers give employment to women and girls in carding and spinning wool, and to men, accommodated with looms in little work- shops or cottages, in weaving it into plaiding, blan- kets, and other coarse fabrics ; and they maintain, in the same way, Wrights, tailors, smiths, shoemakers, and other handicraftsmen, in their respective voca- tions. Each customer provides the material for the work to be done, and makes payment, either in money, or by conceding the temporary use of a por- tion of land ; and, in the article of cloth, he receives it as it comes from the loom, and acts the part of j, with a glebe worth £25; but none of them has a manse. The value of the unappropriated teinds is £1,073 lis. 6d. There are three Free churches, the High, the East, and the North; two United Presbyterian churches, the English and the Cxaelic; an Independent chapel, an Episcopalian chapel, a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, and a Eoman Catholic chapel. The number of sittings in the three parish churches is 4.670; in the three Free churches, 3.170; in the two United Presbyterian churches, 1.016; in the Independent chapel. 530; in the Epis- copalian chapel. 600; in the Wesleyan Methodist chapel, 320; and in the Pioman Catholic chapeL 400. The maximum attendance, on the Census Sabbath in 1851. at the three parish churches was 1,750; at the three Free churches. 2.747 ; at the two United Presbyterian churches, 794; at the Independent chapel, 281 ; at the Episcopalian chapel. 300; at the Wesleyan Methodist chapel. 92; and at the Roman Catholic chapel. 201. Tiie receipts of the High Free church in 1865 were £1,771 3s. 8d.; of the East Free church. £432 2s. lid.; of the North Free church, £536 2s. 2d. The educational establishments of the parish comprise the royal academy. Bell's insti- tution or Farraline-park school, IJell's central school, Bell's Markinch school, the Raining school, the Free church instimtion, the Roman Catholic school, several boarding establishments, and a number of miscellaneous and private schools. The chief of these establishments, together with other institutions, will be noticed in our account of the town. The present parish of Inverness compre- hends the ancient parishes of Inverness and Bona. See BoxA. INVERNESS, a market town, a sea-port, a royal burgh, the capital of Invemess-shire, and the sup- posed original metropolis of Pictavia, stands 19J miles south-south-west of Cromarty, 38^ west-south- west of Elgin. 61i north-east of Fort-William, 118J west-north-west of Aberdeen, and 156J north-north- west of Edinburgh. Its site is on both banks — chiefly the right one — of the river Ness, from ^ a mile to 1^ mile above its entrance into that long and beautiful demi-semi-circular sweep of marine waters which, inward fiom this point, is called the Beauly frith or loch, and outward, is assigned a community of name with the great gulf of the Moray frith. Three large openings. — the basin of the Beauly frith from the west. — that of the Moray frith from the north-east, and the divergent termination of the Glenmore- nan-Albin from the south, — meet at the town, and pour around it a rich confluence of the beauties of landscape and the advantages of communication. A plain, marked with {ew inequalities, h'ing at but a slight elevation above sea-level, traversed by the river Ness, from south-west to north-east, and luxu- rious in its soil and its embellishments, stretches in- j ward from the friths, and bears on its bosom tlit whole of the town except the southern outskirts. A bank from 80 to 90 feet high, part of a great temce which sweeps along from the vicinity of Loch-Ness to the river Spey, rises behind the town, and give? , a charming site to a sprinkling of villas and the I newest suburban erections. Stretching into the 1 interior from this bank, and forming a table-land I equal to it in elevation, lies a plain from one to three miles broad, worked into high cultivation, feathered at intervals with trees, and numerously gemmed j with conntry-seats. The mountain-ridges which screen the Glenmore-nan-Albin, seem to do homage to this plain ; they subside from their sternness into picturesque hill-beauty; they lose, as they approach it, both their loftiness and their asperity; and they file off, on the east side, into a smooth "and gently- declining ridge about 400 feet high, and, on the west side, into a gorgeous range of many-shaped and many-tinted hills, rocky, scaured, or wooded on their sides, tabular or rounded in their summits, and terminating about two miles west of the town in the magnificent Craig-Phadric. which lifts a mimic forest into mid-air. and is " distinguished tv its beautiful tabular summit, and a succession of bold rocky escarpments along its acclivities." The environs of the town, comprising these vari- ons features, are very beautiful; and yet they do not please either eye or imagination more than the expanses of scenery immediately beyond. The mountain-barriers which rise up on the compara- tively near horizon, and form along their summits, a bold well-defined sky-line, exquisitely contrast as a back-ground with the amenities of the vales and the waters which they enclose. A serrated range on the south-west and south lifts up at its termination in the far distance the fine cupola of Mealfour- vounie, well-known to the navigators of the friths as a land-mark, and to the natives as a baroDieter. Peaks, which in mid - summer are capped with clouds, and over a large part of the year are snow- clad, tower aloft in clusters toward the west, round the head of Loch-Eeanly. A hilly range, very pic- turesque in its features, flanks the opposite shore of the friths, and runs off toward Fortrose to terminate in the rugged heights called the Sutors of Cromarty; but, beyond this, though at no great distance, rises the huge form of Ben-wyris, upwards of 3,500 feet in height, seldom snowless even in summer, and sending off extensive ramifications, in long roimd- backed outline, overtopping some nearer eminences. The Moray frith, or that part of it which is here made to monopolize its name, carries the eye north- eastward, between shores which, while they rival each other in attraction, jointly rival any others in Scotland, to the dim distant mountain -ranges of Elgin, Banff, Sutherland, and Caithness. While we smile, then, at the enthusiasm of the not very enthusiastic Dr. M'CuUoch, we can hardly refrain from sympathizing with it when, comparing Inver- ness with the superb metropolis of Scotland, he says: "When I have stood in Queen-street of Edin- burgh, and looked towards Fife, 1 have sometimes wondered whether Scotland contained a finer view of its class. But I have forgotten this on my arri- val at Inverness. Surely if a comparison is to be made with Edinburgh, always excepting its own romantic disposition, the frith of Forth must yield the palm to the Moray frith, the surrounding coun- try must yield altogether, and Inverness must take the highest rank. Everything is done, too, for In- verness that can be effected by wood and cultivation ; the characters of which, here, have altogether a richness, a variety, and a freedom which we miss round Edinburgh. The mountain-screens are finer. INVERNESS. 124 INVERNESS. more various, and more near. Each outlet is dif- ferent from the others, and each is heaiTtiful ; whether we proceed towards Fort-George, or towards Moy, or enter the valley of tlie Ness, or skirt the shores of the Beauly frith, while a short and commodious ferry wafts us to the lovely country opposite, rich with wood, and country-seats, and cultivation. It is the boast, also, of Inverness to unite two opposite qualities, and each in the greatest perfection, — the characters of a rich open lowland country with those of the wildest alpine sceneiy, both also being close at hand, and in many places intermixed; while to all this is added a series of maritime landscape not often equalled." Many persons, indeed, estimate the scenery around Inverness at a nn;cli lower value; yet some of even these follow Dr. M'Culloch in saying that it comprises " rich open lowlands and the wild- est monntain-sceneiy, often intermixed, and a series of maritime landscapes, each different and all beau- tiful." The very name of the Ness, which gives name to Inverness, is associated with notions of most magnificent scenery; for that name, in this case, is generallj' understood by competent judges, to be, not ness " a promontory," but ess " a water- fall," and to refer to the superb cataracts and cas- cades, by which the waters of the Ness are fed. Approaching the town by the old military road from Fort-Augustus along the right bank of the Ness, we pass the parliamentary boundary at Ault- naskiach bum, and ti'avel 5 furlongs due north, with the river immediately on our left, and a rich stud- ding of mansions and villas on our right. At the end of 3^ furlongs we pass the Haugh, with Ness Bank close to the liver; and immediately beyond it, at a point whence the Culduthil and the old Edin- burgh roads sharply diverge, we enter the main body of the burgh. A few yards before us, close on the margin of the river, is the Castle-hill, a mere projec- tion of the bank or terrace which flanks the lower ])lain of the Ness. A cluster of streets and alleys near the Castle, on the side towards High-street, are the oldest existing parts of Inverness; occupying the site of its humble tenements when a mere vil- lage, and exhibiting not a few antiquarian remnants of its condition during the later ages of feudalism. ]'>ighty or a hundred yards below the Castle-hill, the river is spanned by a fine bridge; and thence, or rather from the Castle-hill, it runs for half-a- mile north-north-westward, and over that distance, carries down in the same direction, and on its right bank, the chief district of the town. The High- street, at first narrow, and bearing the name of Bridge-street, biTt afterwards spacious and airy, ex- tends 320 yards north-eastward, on a line with the bridge, cutting nearly at right angles the thorough- fares Avhich run parallel with the river. Petty-street continues tlie High-street for about 100 yards, and leads to the great road along the Moray fnth to Aberdeen, and also to the great Highland road through Badenoch and Athole to Perth. A rising- ground, called the Crown, situated a little east of Petty-street, was anciently surmounted by the ori- ginal castle of Inverness, and overlooked the earliest houses of the town, and the site of the ancient cross. Church-street, at about 130 yards' distance from the river, extends 500 yards north-north-west- ward, and is continued about 170 yards by Chapel- street. From the upper end of Chapel-street, and going off from it at a very acute angle. Academy- street extends 450 yards south-eastward and north-westward. All the space lying between it and High-street, is a dense phalanx of alleys, brief streets and interior courts, — the most crowded district in the burgh. Six or seven streets, wholly or partially edificed, mn down from Church- street and the end of Chapel-street to the river; and on the last of these touching it, it makes a rapid bend from the north-north-west to the north-north- east, so as to be spanned 360 yards lower down by the lower bridge, carrying across a thoroughfare which approaches nearly on a straight line from Chapel- street. A few yards below this bridge is the old pier, and 300 yards farther down is the new harbour, both flanked by Shore-sti'eet, extending due north, now on the margin of the river, and now at a con- siderable distance. The part of the town which lies on the left bank of the Ness, though all modern, and gracefully laid out, is not strictly continuous or compact, and pre- sents such diversity of street arrangement as cannot in suth'cientiy few words be properly described. Its streets, proportionately to its aggregate bulk, are surprisingly numerous, and agreeably interlaced. In a general view, it is a belt of edifices between 5 and 6 furlongs in length, and from 100 to 420 yai'ds wide, folded along the margin, and following the cun-ature of the river, from the upper bridge to a point opposite the new harbour. Tomnahurich-street, running upwards of 400 yards off nearly on a line with the upper bridge, leads out to the road along the north side of Loch Kess by Urquhart to Glenmoris- ton, Glenshiel, and Skye. King-street, running parallel with the river, and Telford-Street, continuing King-street, hut cui-ving away to the east-north- east, point the way across the commencement of the Caledonian canal, and past the canal basin at little more than J of a mile's distance to the gi-eat north road by Beauly to Dingwall and Tain. On this road, immediately above the sea-lock of the canal, and just within the parliamentary boundary of the burgh, lies the fishing-village of Clachnaharrj^. In the extreme north, and in the vicinity of the lower bridge, the western division of the town, after liav- ing become narrowed, opens in a half fan-like form into Grant, North King, Nelson, Brown, and other streets, and sends off a brief road to Kessock feriy, which, from a pier at the mouth of the Ness, main- tains easy and fiequent comnnmication with the beautiful coast along the Eoss-shire side of the frith. All the western town, and nearly all the outskirts, as well as some of the interior of the eastern town, may at present compare, in general neatness and taste of masonr)', and in the aggregate properties which produce a pleasing impression, with any modern to\vn of its size in the United Kingdom. Even the older streets compensate for their want of regularity and beauty, by interesting remains of a picturesquencss which, at a very recent date, arrayed them in gable-end constructions, arched gateways, hanging balconies, projecting towers, and round turnpike stairs. Though a crowded winter- scat of aristocracy, and packed with mansions in the Flemish style, belonging to the landed proprietors of an extensive circumjacent country, the town — even so late as the middle of last century — had few houses wliich were not thatched with heath or straw, or which contained ceiled or plastered rooms; while, at a still later date, it knew nothing of the luxuries of municipal police. About 75 or 85 years ago, the magistrates, in order to induce parties to edifice the airy and modern thoroughfares, granted per- petual feu-rights for very trifling sums, and urged forward the erections by the most condescending encouragements. As the last century closed. Provost William Inglis, a patriotic and energetic citizen, who died in 1801, achieved great improvements in mo- dernizing and polishing the burgh, and strongly im- pelled it toward its present position. In 1831 , a pro- cess was commenced, and soon afterwards was com- INVEENESS. 125 INVERNESS. pletecl, of causewaying the carriage-ways with granite, laying the side paths with Caitlmess-flag, and ramifying the town with common sewers. The cost of this great and beautifying improvement ex- ceeded £6,000, and was defraj'ed by an assessment of 2^ per cent, on house rents. A suit of gas-works, erected at the expense of £8,757, lights the town with gas, — said to be the best in the kingdom; and water-works, which, along with tlie conveying pipes, cost about £7,000, afford an ample supply of water. The public buildings of Inverness, though possess- ing no remarkable features of elegance or beauty, are both creditable and interesting. The castle, or suit of county rooms, was built on the Castle-hill, in 1835, at a cost of about £7,500, and after a design by Mr. Burn of Edinburgh; and the new jail was built alongside of this, and in unison with it, eight years later. The commanding site of these edifices, the neatness of their architecture, their resemblance to a spacious English castle, and their interior coni- modiousness, unite to render them superior to most Scottish buildings of their class. At tlie corner of Church-street and High-street stood the old jail, connected with a remarkably handsome spire 130 feet high. It was built in 1791, at the cost of about £3,400, only £1,800 of which was expended on the Jail itself. The spire resembles that of St. Andrew's church in Edinburgh, and was built by the same architect, but excels it in symmetry, and is remark- ably handsome. Its top was severely twisted by the earthquake of 1816, so as to become ragged and ruinous; but, instead of being left in that state as a curious monument of the event, was, some time after, I'epaired. The jail was taken down in 1854. In High- street, nearly opposite the head of Church- street, stand the Town-ball and Exchange, an unor- namented building, erected in 1708. In front of this is the ancient cross of the town; and at the base of the cross a curious, blue, lozenge-shaped stone, reckoned the palladium of the burgh, and called Clach-na-cud- den, ' the Stone of the tubs,' from its having been a noted resting-place for the water-pitchers or deep tubs of bygone generations of women when passing from the river. In the front wall of the Exchange and Town-house, the armorial bearings of the town — a shield representing the Crucifixion, and supported by an elephant and a camel, with the motto ' Concordia et Fidelitas ' — together with the royal arms, are beau- tifully carved. In the town-hall are good portraits of Sir John Barnard and Sir Hector Munro, benefac- tors to the town, the former painted by Ramsay; a full-length portrait, by Syme of Edinburgh, of Pro- vost Robertson of Aultnaskiach, hung up as a testi- monial of respect by his fellow-citizens; and a copy of the original portrait, by Ramsay, of the celebrated Flora Macdonald, presented by Mr. Eraser of Madras, a native of the town. Near the head of Church- street stands a high and spacious but clumsy and heavy edifice, called the Northern Meeting-rooms, built by subscription, and elegantly fitted up into a ball-room and a dining-room, each 60 feet long and 30 wide, and respectively 20 and 18 feet high. On the north-east side of Academy-street stands the Inverness Academy, an extensive erection, hand- some but not showy, opened, in 1792, for the educa- tion, on a liberal scale, of the families of the upper classes throughout the Northern Highlands. It has a large pleasure-ground behind for the recreation of the scholars; and is distributed in the interior into class-rooms for five masters, and a public hall em- bellished with a bust, by Westmacott, of Hector Eraser, an eminent teacher of Inverness, and with a masterly painting of the Holy Family variously as- cribed to Sasso Ferrato and to Perino de Vaga. The Academy was erected by numerous and munificent subscriptions, is upheld by a fund of upwards ol £4,000, besides an annual grant of £81 from the town; has a body of directors who are incorporated by royal charter; and aflbrds liberal training in all departments of a commercial and a classical educa- tion, with the elements of mathematics and philoso- phy. Attached to it is a small museum, collected by the Northern institution for the promotion of science and literature, which was established in 1825. With the Academy is connected a bequest, left ir. 1803, by Captain William Mackintosh, of the Hin- dostan East Indiaman, for the education of boys of certain branches of the Clan Mackintosh, the present value of which is estimated at £25,000. A proposal was made a few years ago for amalgamating the Academy and the Mackintosh funds, with the view of so raising the institution, and eventually obtain- ing for it such government support, as should render it equal in character to some of the Scotch colleges, and a general school of resort for the North High- lands. Close to the Academy grounds is the terminus of the Inverness and Nairn railway, opened in No- vember, 1855. Ofi" Academ5'-street by Margaret- street, with spacious ground in front, stands the Farraline-park school, a handsome and conspicuous institution recently erected by the magistrates and council as Dr. Bell's trustees, and afibrding instrac- tion to a large attendance of children on the Madras or monitorial S3'stem. The old academy, situated near the lower end of Cliurch-street, was bequeathed in 1668 to the community by Provost Alexander Dunbar; and, after the transference of its funds to the new academy, it was fitted up for a public libi-ar}"^ and some similar uses, and is now the poor-house. In 1747, Mr. John Raining of Norwich bequeathed £1,000 for building and endowing a school in any part of the Highlands the General Assembly should appoint. The school was founded at Inverness, un- der the management of the Society for propagating Christian Knowledge, and placed under the conduct of two teachers; and it continues still to be in a flourishing condition. The Free church model in- stitution is a very effective school, with a department for Latin, Greek, and geometry, a commercial depart- ment, an English department, and a female indus- trial department. Inverness on the whole — as may be inferred from these statements, and from what we said in our account of the parish — is peculiarly well-supplied with the means of instruction, both in public schools and in private ones, for all ranks of society, and in all departments of education. On the left bank of the Ness, 3 furlongs above the upper bridge, stands the Infirmary of the northern counties, built in 1804, and supported chiefly by voluntaiy contributions. It consists of a large cen- tral front and two wings, and is surrounded at some distance with iron palisades, enclosing a spacious ai-ea. It is commodiously and salubriously fitted up in the interior, has a suit of hot and cold baths, and is pra^^ded with regular medical attendance and every other requisite. The new Caledonian bank, in High-street, opposite the Exchange, and looking up Castle - street, is a remarkably fine edifice, erected recently, after a design by Mr. Mackenzie of Elgin, and" somewhat resembles, on a small scale, the superb Commercial bank in Edinburgh. " Above the basement, which contains two finely carved archways, is a large portico with four fluted columns, having beautifully carved Corin- thian capitals, which support a massive pediment, within which are arranged a group of allegorical figures, from the classic chisel of Mr. H. Ritchie of Edinburgh. The centre figure is Caledonia, holding in her hand the Roman fasces, emble matical of unity. On the right is a figui'e repre- LSVERNESS. 12G INVERNESS. senting tlic Ness, from whose side rises anotlier female form symbolic of a tributary stream. On the extreme right are two small figures rowing a bark, represt-nting Commerce. On the left is Plenty pouring out the contents of her cornucopia ; a reaper with an armful of cut corn, a shepherd and sheep, emblematical of the rural interests of the country." The post-ortice and the Union hotel are also hand- some new buildings ; and not a few private edifices in the town, so beautiful as to be public ornaments, as well as beautiful villas in the suburbs and the environs, have of late years been erected. The Established High church, situated near the foot of Church-street, and devoted to English preach- ing, is a large plain edifice, standing compactly witli an old square tower, which is said to have been built by Oliver Cromwell, and whose soft clear toned bell is believed to have been brought by him from the ancient catliedral of Fortrose. The Established Gaelic church, situated beside the High church, and appropriated exclusively to Gaelic, has no exterior attraction, but possesses within an old and elegantly carved oaken pulpit. The Established West churcli and the Free High church are handsome new edi- fices. The North Free church, situated in Chapel- street, is a large good building. The Episcopalian chapel, in Church-street, is a very handsome struc- ture, though still wanting a tower to render it com- plete. The Koman Catholic chapel also is finely ornamental ; and the other places of worship are pleasant and creditable ecclesiastical edifices. A wooden bridge, which existed in the time of Cromwell, and is characterized by one of his ollicers as ' the weakest, in his opinion, that ever straddled over so strong a stream,' stood near the site of the present upper bridge, and communicated with the town on the right bank of the river by an arched way which was surmoiinted by a house. In Sep- tember 16G4, upwards of 100 persons formed a crowd upon this frail structure, and caused its fall, yet all escaped destruction. In 1G85, a handsome stone bridge of seven ribbed arches was built instead of it, at a cost of £1,300, defrayed by voluntary con- tribution throughout the kingdom. Between the second and third arches, was a dismal vault, used first as a jail, and afterwards as a madhouse. This appalling place of durance, whose inmate was perched between the constant hoarse sound of the stream beneat]i,and the occasional trampling of feet and rattle of wheels overhead, was in use so late as 45 years ago, and is said not to have been abandoned till its last miserable inmate, a maniac, had been devoured by rats. 'J'he bridge was overthrown by a great flood in Janumy 1849 ; and an iron suspen- sion bridge in lieu of it, a large imposing structure, was raised in 1855, at the cost of above £26,000. The lower bridge, nearly on a line with Chapel-street, is a wooden erection built in 1808 by subscription, and is now fast going to decay. At two beautiful islets in the Ness, very nearly united, measuring respectively IJ and IJ furlong in length, and lying about a mile above the town, two handsome sus- pension bridges have been flung across to connect tliem, the one with the right bank and the other with the left. These islands — once noted as the scene of rural feasts and semi-bacchanalian orgies given bj^ the magistrates to the judges at the assize courts — have been tastefully cut into pleasure walks, profusely planted and variously beautified as public promenades; and, easily approached by the ornamental bridges, and lying in the bosom of an almost luscious landscape," they rank among the most pleasant public grounds in Scotland. The extinct and ancient public structures of the town present various associations of stirring interest. The oldest or original castle of Inverness, that which stood on ' the Crown,' has for centuries been untraceable, except by traditional identification of its site. This edifice was very probablj^ as Shak- speare assumes, the property of Macbeth, who, being by birth the maormor or ' great man of Ross,' and becoming by marriage that also of Moray, could hardly fail to liave the mastery of a stronghold at tile mouth of the Ness ; and, true to the description of the prince of dramatic poets, ' this castle had a pleasant seat,' the air around which "Nimbly .■ind sweetly recomiiicnds iiself Umo our t'eiule senses." But, according to the concurrent opinion of modem antiquaries, it was not, as Shakspeare represents, and as Boethius and Buchanan relate, the scene of King Duncan's murder by Macbetli, — that deed hav- ing been perpetrated at a spot called, in the Chro- niconElegaicum,^oSpey, has some good land on its banks, which becomes better and more ex- tensive as the stream advances. And at length, the Spey itself, the river-monarch of this region, comes into view, winding bis majestic course within green banks to which the heath dares not approacli. The farms are now more frequent; patches of tur- nips and fields of potatoes appear on either hand; and lime is wrought for sale. The face of the country up the Spey, from the centre of tiie detaclied district of Inverness-shire to points a little above where the river ig touched by tiie interesting parts of Banfi'shire and Jloraysiiire, is very much diversified. Tlie natural fir-woods of Kothiemurchus are the most extensive in the county, or probably in the island. At a short dis- tance above this place, and on the opposite side of tlie Spey, Kinrara is hap])ily set down. The vale, in Avhich the river flows, is narrowed considerably at Kinrara. The banks on both sides are richly wooded by a variety of trees, wliose green foliage far up the acclivity of the hills gratifies the eye, while the sweet fragrance of the birch embalms the a'r. lietween Kinrara and Kingussie the aspect of the country is considerably changed. There arc fewer black moors of low ground contiguous to the liver. Tiie plains are all green, of considerable extent, and elevated but a {gw feet above the tract of the Spey. Wherever there are hollow basins in this flat land, water stagnates when the river has subsided after an in- undation. This occasions marshes and lagoons of greater or less extent in proportion to these inequali- ties of the surface ; and the alders, willows, and other useless shrubs which grow upon this swampy ground, disfigure the country. The ravages of the Spey in the whole of Badenoch, especially in thi& upper part of the district, are a great hinderaiice, or rather an entire obstniction, to the success of agri- culture within tlie reach of its inundations. 'I'ho mountains on botii sides of the country being so high, and reaching so far back, every brook occasionally becomes a torrent; and there being no reservoir in any part of this long strath to receive the water from these numerous torrents, the river must swell suddenly, become furious, and in a mighty stream, both broad and deep, sweep all before it that comes within its reach. A great culmination of mountain ranges occurs in the south-west of Badenoch. Glentruim, proceeding laterally from the Spey, takes up the Inverness and Perth road to the central Grampians. Loch-Ericht, near the head of that glen, stretches across the boun- dary into Pertlishire, and commences on that side the basin-system of the Tay. Loch-Laggaii extends parallel to Loch-Ericht, 8 or 10 miles to the north- west; and though lying within Badenoch, and re- ceiving some small streams thence, discharges its su- perfluence, in the form of the river Spean, into Locli- aber. To the north of Loch-Laggan occurs very high ground, whence some waters take their course toward the Atlantic, and others toward the German ocean. The rivers Pattack and Massie run almost parallel to each other for the space of 2 miles; yet the former, after joining the Spean, is discharged into the Western sea, while the latter, uniting its waters with the Spey, flows eastward into the Ger- man ocean. The inn of Garviemore, in t4iis neigh- bourhood, announces the extremity of the long vale of Strathspey and Badenoch, and the head of the Spey which derives its source fi'om a small lake of the same name in the northern mountains. Seven miles beyond Garviemore, the military road wliich leads from Perth to Fort-Augustus, by Corryarrick, being confined between a deep raA'ine on the one hand, and a chain of rock on the other, a.scends bv INVERNESS-SHIRE. 135 INVERNESS-SHIRE. no fewer than -seventeen traverses, mounting zig- zag, to the summit of Monadhleadh, or 'the Gray uiountain,' so called because the surface is mostly grey rock and moss, the soil having been worn off by the storms. The descent on the north side of this bold and tremendous pass, is by the western hank of the Tarf, which holds a winding course, through thick groves of large trees, to the head of Loch-Ness. The momitain torrents, purling brooks, and minor rivulets of Inverness-shire, are exceedingly multitudinous, and display great diversity of char- acter, with, in many instances, fine waterfalls and highly picturesque banks. The chief of the larger streams are the Spean, the Loch)', the Garry, the Moriston, the Glass or Beaiily, the Ness, the Foyers, the Nairn, the Findhorn, and the Spey. A great number of small fresh water lakes, of various char- acter, occur throughout both the moorlands and the glens ; and some fine large lakes also, chiefly of pietnresque character, occur in the glens — -all the principal of which, however, have incidentally been mentioned in the course of our description of the surface. The western shores, particularly of the districts of Moyd'irt, Arasaig, Morar, and Knoydart, are indented with numei'ous bays, creeks, and arms of the sea — called lochs^whicli might be rendered excellent fishing-stations. Non-fossiliferous rocks, variously plutonic, meta- morphic, and eruptive, chiefly granite, gneiss, mica- slate, porphyry, and trap rocks, prevail tlirough the greater part of Inverness-shire. The old red sandstone prevails on the low borders of Loch-Ness, and throughout the seaboard of the Beauly and the Moray friths. Limestone is found in every district of the county, and approaches in many places to the nature of marble. On the southern border of Loch- aber, near Loch-Leven, there is a fine rock of an ash-coloured marble, beautifully speckled with veins of copper pyrites, and intersected with small thready veins of lead ore which is rich in silver. In the par- ish of Kilmalie, near Fort-William, in the bed of the Nevis, is a singular vein of marble, of a black ground, with a beautiful white flowering like needle- work, or rather resembling the frosting upon a win- dow, penetrating the whole vein. In the parish of Kingussie a rich vein of silver was discovered, and attempted to be wrought, but without success. In other places veins of lead, containing silver, have been observed. Iron-ore has also been found, but not in sufficient quantity to render it an object of manufacture. In the isle of Skye there are several valuable minerals. See Skye. Thj climate of Inverness-shire is, in one respect, similar to that of all the rest of Scotland. On the west coast, the rains are heavy, and of long continu- ance; but the winters are mild; and when snow fdls, it soon disappears, owing to the genial influence of the sea-breeze, unless the wind be northerly. On the east coast the heaviest rains are from the German ocean; but the climate, upon the whole, is not so rainy as in those districts which are adjacent to the Atlantic. Fort- William, Inverary, and Greenock, liave been said to be the most subject to rain of any towns in Scotland; and Dr. Kobertson thinks "there is little doubt of the truth of this remark, as appli- cable to that coast in general, when the wind is westerly." In the New Statistical Account it is stated that the annual number of rainy days at the Inverness end of the Great glen is about 60 less than at Fort- William at the other extremity of the glen. The harvest is comparatively early on the eastern seaboard, all round from the head of Loch- Beauly and the foot of Loch-Ness to the extremity of Ar- dersier ; and that fact arises from the joint operati m of climatic causes with other ones, — the superior dryness of the climate, the lowness of the surface, the free exposure of every part to the sun, the reflec- tion of the sun's rays from the adjacent mountains, the lightness and quickness of the soil, the free use of lime, and the comparative skilfulness of the agri- cultural practices. A very great proportion of Inverness -shire is covered with heath. When Dr. Robertson wrote, some persons were of opinion, that 39 parts out of 40 of the entire surface were clad with its russet hues. I'he dominion of the heath is, however, daily losing ground before the progress of agriculture and the industry of the inhabitants. A considerable tract is underwood; much is rock; and nearly as much is covered with water. Cla}^, in a pure state, is but a small proportion of the arable soil. Along the river Beauly, near its confluence with the sea, and on the side of the Beauly frith, there is a certain extent of a rich blue clay, producing the different crops pe- culiar to such soil in the southern counties. About Inverness, and down the border of the Moray frith, where creeks and bays abound in which the tide ebbs and flows very gently, some small fields of a clay soil present themselves. Nevertheless the pro- portion which this species of soil bears to the general extent of the county is very inconsiderable. Haugh is more frequently to be met with, and the fields of it are far more extensive, than any other valuable soil in the county. In the whole lordship of Baden- och, from Kinrara on the east, to the place where the Spey descends from the hill of Corryarrick, — a tract of more than 20 miles,- — haugh abounds, almost without interruption, on both sides of the river. Tlie head of all the arms of the sea, on the west coast, where they receive their respective brooks from the valleys behind, have less or more of this kind of soil, all the way from Moydart to Glenelg. Along the course of the river Moriston are various spots of this soil. In the bottom of Urquhart by the sides of the river, but more especially on the south side, soil of this description is frequent and abundantly productive; that next to Loch-Ness is the richest. Strathglass is similar to Badenoch in various respects, besides being all either hill or a dead flat of land formed by water. Its valley, how- ever, is much narrower, and the hills more abrupt and barren. The Glass has a slower current than the Spey, which prevents its devastating the banks, and the formation of beds of gravel. In the Aird there are few haughs. On the banks of the Ness there is some soil of this complexion; but that river issuing pure from Loch-Ness, carries down stones, gravel, and sand, rather than fine earth; and the weight of its water, flowing with a magnificent and powerful stream, has forced such a quantity of these materials into the Moray frith, in a transverse direc- tion, that a bar has been formed nearly three-fourths across this arm of the sea at the ferry of Kessock. Dr. Kobertson predicts that •' this growing headland will, in future ages, approach so near the opposite shore as to allow no more water to escape than what is brought into the frith of Beauly from the higher grounds around it, and the frith itself will become a lake, first of brackish, and afterwards of fresh water." Stratherrick has little of haugh soil, ex- cept some patches on the sides of the lakes. Along the Nairn there are small haughs in difterent places, all the way from the head of that strath toCantray, where it joins the county of Nairn. Loam, properly so called, is very rare in Inverness-shire. Sand and gravel form a part of the soil in a great variety of places. Strathnairn, and particularly Strathdearn — so far as they are within this county — abound with this light f'ree soil. A great pronortion also ol INVERNESS-SHIRE. 13G INVERNESS-SHIRE. Strathspey and of Badenoch is of this complexion. Till, next to a sandy or gravelly soil, is the most common in the county ; and, if the mountains are taken into account, the proportion of till exceeds all the other kinds taken together. Moss, moor, and heathy ground, in the opinion of some intelligent persons — as already noticed — cover two-thirds of Inverness-shire. If one-fortieth only be arable land, there are probably twenty-six of the remaining parts covered with heath incumbent on moss or on a till bottom. Heath generally produces a crust of moss on the surface, whatever be the soil below. 'J'he land occupied now or formerly by na- tural firs assumes the same ajipearance, because they seldom grow so closely, or shade the ground so completely, as to destroy the heath. Tlie higher mountains arc not covered with heath to the suni- luit; nor are the mountains in all the districts equally gloomy and forbidding. The hills of l^ochaber pre- sent a good mixed pasture of grass and heath. Glennevis is of this description, thougii it forms the skirts of the highest mountain in iJritain. The hills of Arasaig, freckled as they are with rocks, — - those of Glendessary. of Glenpean, of Glenqueich, — those on the north of Glenpean, — those of Glenroy, — those on both sides of Loch-Lochy, particularly at J^owbridge, wliere the hills in general are as green as a meadow, — those on the sides of Loch-Oich, to its northern extremity, where the dark brown heath begins on the west, — those in both Glenelgs, — those at the liead of Strathglass, and on the braes of Bade- noch, — ail are more or less of the same hue, and yield most plentiful pasture. But on the confines of Sti'athspey the aspect of the mountains is very dif- ferent. At the head of Strathdearn and of Stratli- nairn, — in 8tratherrick, — from behind the head of Glenurquhart, and across Glenmoriston to the source of the Oich, — and in several other districts, — the mountains are gloomy, black, and sterile to such a degree that, in a distance of 12 or 14 miles, hardly any verdure is to be seen, except where a solitary rivulet, by its occasional ilooding, produces some green ground in part of its course. In all the mosses, the roots of fir-trees stick up, which are dug out and dried for fuel. So plenteous are they, and so singular in their appearance, that there have been seen in Strathspey three tiers of fir-stocks in the moss ; indicating no doubt that wood had there thrice come to maturity, after every former growth had, by its destruction, formed a soil capable of nourishing the succeeding forest. Almost all the deep mosses are situated on land which is more or less elevated above the general level of the valleys, and lie on gravel, or stones, or till. None of these fields of moss — except a patch at Corpach, and a very few more — are in the bottom of a valley, like the famous Flanders moss of the county of Perth ; nor, like it, have they in any case a bottom of rich clay. The fir woods on the mutual confines of Inverness- shire and Morayshire are supposed to be far more extensive than all the other natural woods of Scot- land together. Natural woods and copses of various kinds occupy a considerable aggregate area in other districts of tlie mainland of Inverness-shire. Plan- tations also, to a considerable aggregate extent, have been made. Both the Great glen, and the glens lateral to it, as well as the gentlemen's parks almost everywhere, are beautifully wooded. The high woodlands and the moors abound with game, in rich variety,— the red deer and the roe deer, the alpine and the common hare, black game, grouse, ptarmigan, pheasants, and partridges. Foxes and wild cats likewise are numerous; and otters fre- quent the lakes and the rivers. There are also owls, hawks, and eagles, and multitudes of water- fowls. The letting of the moors for the right of shooting is now very common in Inverness-shiie, inoois being let at prices from £50 to £700, for the season, with diversity of acconnnodations. The sale of the wood.s also, in some parts, has been a gi'eat traffic, — carried to the extent not only of abundant thinnings, but almost to that of clearings. The landed property of Inverness-shire is divided among about b3 proprietors. Many of the estates are of great extent, and of comparatively great value. The county is chiefly pastoral, only about 500,000 acres of it being arable. The chief articles of export are black cattle, sheep, and wool. The cattle are chiefly of the Skye or Kyloe breed. Sheep of the Cheviot breed, and of the Linton vaii- ety, have been widely dirt'used. " Farms are of all sizes. Some grazing farms extend over several square miles of country; while some of the small arable farms include only a few acres ; but a certain extent of hill pasture is for the most part joined to the latter. The number of these small holdings has, however, rapidly decreased since the introduc- tion of sheep iarniing, and there has, in consequence, been a great saving as well of the labour of horses as of men, a great increase of disposable produce, and also a great increase of comfort and industry. Large tarn] s are uniformly let on lease; but many small ones are held from year to year.'' The prac- tices of the arable husbandry exhibit every variety, fiom a very highly improved state on the eastern seaboard, to a state of comparative rudeness in the Western islands. In the year 1854, according to statistics obtained under the direction of the High- land and Agricultural society, the gross produce ol the county comprised 47,573 bushels of wheat, 93,100 bushels of barley, 437,584 bushels of oats, 23,0G8 bushelsof here or bigg, 2,572 bushels of beans, 89,984 tons of turnips, and 6,519 tons of potatoes. The average produce per imperial acre was 28 bush- els 1 peck of wheat, 35 bushels of barley, 32 bushels of oats, 22 bushels 3 pecks of here or bigg, 30 bushels of beans, 16 tons 11 cwt. of turnips, and 1 ton 17 cwt. of potatoes. And the number of cattle was 3,038 horses, 7,867 milk cows, 8,460 other bovine animals, 5,482 calves, 368,921 ewes, ginnners, and ewe-hogs, 173,107 tups, wethers, and wether hogs, and 1,529 swine. The manufactures, the commerce, the fisheries, the social improvements, and the political history ot Inverness-shire will be sufficiently understood by reference to our articles Highlands and Hebkjijls. The Gaelic is the language of the people on tlie northern, western, and southern borders; but, in the neighbourhood of Inverness, the better sort use the English language. While the feudal system yet existed in the Highlands, and any factious chief had it in his power to embroil the neighbourhood in wa:- — as had been proved in 1715 and 1745— it became necessary to erect military stations to keep the Highlanders in subjection. Accordingly in the tract of the Great glen, Fort-George, Fort- Augustus, and Fort- William, were erected, as a chain of forts across the island. By means of Fort-George on the east all entrance up the Moray frith to Inverness was prevented; Fort- Augustus curbed the inhabitants midway ; and Fort-William was a check to any at- tempts on the west. Detachments were sent from these garrisons to Inverness, to Bernera opposite the isle of Skye, and to Castle-Douart in the isle of Mull. The English garrisons which necessarily occupied the forts, and the number of travellers to whom the military roads gave access, undoubtedly induced gentler and more polished manners, and assisted in banishing those exclusive privileges and partialities which had acquired such a withering strength under INVEKNESS-SHIEE. 137 INVERNESS-SHIKK. the system of clanship. The militaiy roads in tliis county, made by the soldiers under General Wade, never tail to excite the astonishment and gratitude ot' travellers. They are executed with the utmost industry and labour, and lead over mountains and through mosses and morasses which before were impassable to the lightest vehicle. The military roads maintained in repair in the county are: 1st, the Badenoch road, from Inverness through Baden- och to Dalwhinnie, and further to the borders of Perthshire, reckoned at 52 miles ; and though part of this, to the extent of 13 miles, goes through the intersecting district of Morayshire, yet that part is compensated by a reach of about the same extent, lying through the detached- district of Inverness- shini, and usually ascribed to Morayshire;— 2nd, the Boleskine road, from Inverness to Fort-Augustus, 33 miles, whence a road, 30 miles in extent, turning to the left over Corrj'arrick, reaches Dalwhinnie, and joining the Badenoch road enters Perthshire by a road originally military, and now under repair as a turnpike road; — 3d, the road from Fort-Augustus to Fort- William, and farther to Ballachulish ferry, I'eckoned at 45 miles; — 4th, the road from Inverness. along the coast to Fort- George, sending oti' some offsets, and reckoned altogether at 16 miles. The Caledonian canal traverses the county through the centre, and is of far more value to it than any road. By the spirited exertions of the landed proprietors, the commerce and industry of the inhabitants have of late been greatly iricreased; and to facilitate the communication with the more remote parts, roads and bridges have been formed, under the direction of the parliamentary commissioners, through every district of the county. 'J'he only burgh in Inverness-shire is Inverness. The only other considerable town is Grantown. The villages and principal hamlets are Campbelton, Stuarton, Connage, Petty, Balloch, Clachnaharry, Culcabock, Hilton, Pesandrie, Smith-town of Cul- loden, Lynchat, Kingussie, Newtonmore, Ralia, Fort-Augustus, Fort-William, Invermoriston, Lew- iston, Beauly, Glenelg, Kyleakin, Portree, Broad- ford, Stein, and Lochmaddy. Among the principal seats are Castle-Grant and Balmacaan, the Earl of Seafield; Ness-castle, Lord Saltoun; Beaufort-castle, LoidLovat; Inverlochy, Lord Abinger; Invergany, Lord Ward; Armadale-Castle, Lord Macdonald; Avonsuidh, the Earl of Diinmore; Invereshie, Sir George Macphersoii Grant, Bart.; Fassfern-Castle, Sir D. Cameron, Bart.; Dochibur, Evan Baillie, Esq.; Abertarff, A. T. F. Fiaser, Esq.; Glenmas- cran, C. Macintosh, Esq.; Airds, John Macqueen, Esq.; Eaigmore. E. W. Macintosh, Esq.; Culloden, Arthur Forbes, Esq.; Balnain, Capt. W. F. Tytler; Leys, John F. Baihe, Esq.; Congash, Capt. J. Grant; Cluny- Castle, Cluny Macpherson, Esq.; Glenmoriston, James M. Grant, Esq.; Erchless- Castle, Chisbolm of Chisholm; Ardmore, Major A. Macdonald; and Balranald, James T. Macdonald, Esq. Inverness-shire sends one member to parliament, and has four polling places. Its constituency in 1854 was 932; of whom 426 were in the Inverness district, 161 in the Strathspey or Kingussie district, 140 in the Western or Fort- William district, and 136 in the Hebridean or Skye and Long-Island dis- trict. The sheriff holds his courts at Inverness, with jurisdiction over the whole county; but sherift" substitutes also hold distributed jurisdiction in the four districts of Inverness, Fort-William, Skye, and Long-Island. The sheriff court for the county is held everv Thursday and Friday during session; the commissary court, every Thursday; and the court of quarter sessions on the first Tuesdaj' of March, May, and August, and the last Tuesday of October. Sheriff small debt courts aie held at Grantown on the first Monday, at Kingussie on the first Tuesday, at Beauly on the second Monday, and at Fort-Augustus on the second Tuesday of January, May, and September. Justice of peace courts are held monthly at nineteen places. The court of lieutenancy is divided into the districts of Inverness, Petty, Strathnaiin, Strathdearn, Baden- och, Boleskine, Kiliiionivaig, Urquhart, Strathglass, Skye, Harris, North Uist, South Uist, and Small Isles. The county prison board has under its care, not only the county prison at Inverness, but district prisons at Fort-William, Portree, and Lochmaddy. Tlie constabulary force has stations at Inverness, Moy, Carr-Bridge, Kingussie, Eothiennxrchus, Lag- gan, Dalwhinnie, Stratherrick, Fort-Augustus, Ur- quhart, Dores, Beauly, Plioinas, Croy, Campbelton, Fort- William, Spean-Bridge, Glengarry, Knoydart, Arasaig, Glenelg, Portree, Broadford, Dunvegan, Lochmaddy, Harris, and South Uist. The number of committals for crime, in the year, within the county, was 58 in the average of 1836-1840, 118 in the average of 1841-1845, and 175, 155. and 164 in the averages of 1846-50, 1851-55, and 1856-60. The total number of persons confined in the prison at Inverness, within the year ending 30tli June 1860, was 159; the average duration of the cinifinemeiit of each was 34 days ; and the net cost of theii' Confinement per head, after deducting earn- ings, was £27 13s. 2d. All the parishes of the county, except two, aie assessed for the poor. The number of registered poor in the year 1851-2 was 4,100; in the year 1860-1, 3,829. The number of casual poor in 1851-2 was 2,579; in 1860-1, 432. The sum expended on the registered poor in 1851-2 was £11,556; in 1860-1, £17,640. The sum ex- ])ended on the casual poor in 1851-2 was £2,528; in 1860-1, £464. The assessment for rogue money in 1854 was £150; for prisons, £727 14s. lOd. The valued rent in 1674 was £73,188 Scotch. The annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815. was £185,565; as assessed in 1860-1, £215,506. Population of the county in 1801,72.672; in 1811, 77,671; in 1821,89,961'; in 1831, 94,797; in 1841, 97,799; in 1861, 88,888. Males in 1861, 41,364; females, 47,524. Inhabited houses in 1861, 16,615; uninhai)ited, 252; building, 82. There are in Inverness-shire 29 quoad civilia parishes, part of 7 other quoad civilia parishes, and 5 parliamentary quoad sacra parishes, — in all 41 jiarishes, or parts of parishes, exclusive of ancient ones now incorporated with these. Two of the 41 parishes are in the presbytery of Dingwall, and synod of Ross; 7 are in the presbytery of Abemethy, 3 are in the presbytery of Nairn, and 7 constitute the presbytery of Inverness, — all in the synod of Moray; and 1 is in the presbytery of Lochcarron, 5 constitute the presbytery of Abertarff, 10 consti- tute the presbytery of Si fewer than 68 of its monks to the sword. Next year the inhabitants of tlie island built a new town; in 814, they went in a body to Tarauh to curse the king of Scotland, who had incensed them by his vices; and in 818, their abbot, Diarmid, alarmed by new menaces from the pirates, bundled up some saintly relics to aid in averting perils, and ploughed the seas for two years in making a retreat to Ireland. In 985, the abbot of the period, and 15 monks, or ' doctors,' were killed, and the whole establishment dispersed. In 1069, the buildings, after having been re-edified, were once more destroyed by fire. 'J In- lOXA. 144 io:na. place had long before bidden farewell to its pristine glory, and now loomed dimly in the increasing gloom of its evening twilight; and, at last, in 1203, it was formally mantled in the sable dress of night, and be- came the seat of a new and regnlar monastery, ten- anted bvtliccowled and mass-saying priests of Rome. The Culdce monks, with the decline of their reii- irious excellence, grew in earthliness of spirit; and thongh they originally held little connnunication with powerfnl barons except to aid their spiritnal well-being, and would not acce])t from tliem any donation of land, yet they eventually made no scruple to send their fame to the money-market, and to accumulate whatever possessions were ceded by popular and opulent credulity or admiration. 'J'hey received numerous and large donations of cliurches and their pertinents, and of landed property from the lords of Galloway, and are said to have obtained 13 islands from the Scottish kings. No tolerable esti- mate can now be made of the amount of their wealtii, nor even a certain catalogue exhibited of their islands. Raasay, Canna, Incldvennetii, Soa, and Eorsa, seem certainly to have belonged to them; Tiree, Colonsay, Staffa, and the Tresliinisli isles, were probably theirs ; and the three Shiant isles, the three Garveloch isles, and the isle of St. Cormack, Dr. M-Culloch thinks, are awarded them by the evidence of the ruined cells and other antiquities. In 11 SO, all the revenues de- rived from Galloway, and other quarters, were taken away, and granted to the abbey of Holyrood. The Komi.sh monks who succeeded the Culdees, inherited from them little or no property, except the island of lona, and were left to make what accumulations they could from the fame of the place, and the trickeries of their own craft. lona thus concentrates most of the teeming inter- est of its renowned name within the period of about 150 years succeeding the landing of Columba; and is seen in its real moral suliliniity when the doubtful or positively fabulous story of its having been origi- nally an island of the Druids, and the associations of its monkery, and its existing ruins of popish edi- fices, either are entirely forgotten, or are employrd only in the limnings of poetry as foils to the grand features of the scene. Regarded as the source of Christian enlightenment to the whole British isles, and as the fountain-head of civilization, literature, and science, to all Eui'ope, at a period when the vast territory of the Roman empire, and nearly all tlie scenes which had been lit up by primeval Christi- anity wei'e turned into wilderness by barbarism and superstition, it excites holier and more thrilling thoughts by far than the most magnificent of the thousand rich landscapes of Scotland, than even the warmest in the colourings of its objects, and the most stirring in its antiquarian or historical assf)- ciations. " We were now treading that illustrious island," says Dr. Johnson, in a passage familiar to almost every Scotsman, " which was once the luminary of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians derived the benefits of knowledge, and the blessings of religion. To ab- stract the mind from all local emotion would be impossible, if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish, if it were possible. "Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses, — whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future, predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings. Far from me and from my friends be such frigid philosophy, as may conduct us indiffer- ent and unmoved over any ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue! That man is little to be envied, whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer amonsr the rains of lona." Wordsworth has dedicated three memorial sonnets to lona; and Blackwood's Delta has penned the followini; lines on this far-famed islet, and its sur- rounding scenery: " How lioniitifiil. iK'ncilli llip iiinniint:-sky, Tiie level sea outi-tiftclios like a lake" Serene, wlieii not a zcpliyr is aw.ike To eiii-1 llie gilded pciul.Tiit prlldiM!r liy! Within a iHuv-shot. Druid Icolnikill I'icsenls its time-worn ruins lioar .ind grey, A nionument of eld reniaiiiing- still, Lonely, v.lien all its brethren arc away. Dunili tilings may l>e our teachers; is it strange 'I'lnit auglit of death is perishing! Come Imtli IJke raiiiliows, sliow diversity of change. Ami fade away — Aiu'ora of the North 1 Where altars rose, and choral virgins sung. Ami victims Ijled, the sea-bird rears her young." If any re'.ics of the Culdees exist on the island, thev must, to all appearance, be sought only among the oldest of the tomb-stones, defiiced, without in scriptions, mere blocks of stone, whicli cannot now bo identified with any aire, or twisted into connec- tion with any individuals or events. The ruins oi buildings are extensive, but all posterior in date to the invasion of popery. Whatever structures Avere erected liy Columba or his successors, ar(' contended, successfully, we think, by Dr. M'Culloch, to liaA'e been comparatively rade, and probably com])osed of wicker-work or timber; and even had they been elegant and of solid masonry, must have been de- stroyed b_v the frequent devastations of the northern pirates. When Ceallach, the leadei- of the Romish invaders, took possession in 1203, he could scarcely have failed to appropriate an ecclesiastical edifice, had one existed, or even to have renovated or re edi- fied any ruins which could have been available for housing his monks; yet he built a monastery of his own. Even Ceallaclrs eilifice, soon after its erection, was pulled down by a body of Irish, sanc- tioned bv an act of formal condemnation on the part of a synod of their clergy, who still sided with the Culdees, and resisted Romanism. St. Gran's chapel, the oldest existing ruin, is pin bably the work of the Norwegians, and, were it not confronted with historical proofs which raise very strong doubts of its dating higher than near or to- ward the year 1300, it might have been esteemed as prior to the 11th century. The l)uilding is in the Norman style, rude, only 60 feet by 22, and now unroofed, but otherwise entire. Excepting that the chevron moulding is, in the usual matmer, repeated many times on the soffit of the arch, it is quite with- out ornament; and, even in the poor decorations which it possesses, it displays meanness of style and clumsiness of execution. In tlie interior, and along the pavement, are some tombs, and many carved stones, — one of the latter oinamented, in a very un- usual manner, with balls. A tomb pointed out as St. Gran's, but more probably belonging to a sea- warrior, and very evidently of a more modern date than the chapel, lies under a canopy of three pointed arches, and possesses more elegance than most of the relics of the island. On the south side of the chapel, and adjacent to it. is an enclosure called Relig Gran, ' the burying-place of Gran.' This was the grand cemetery of lona, the cheiished and far- famed spot whither, for ages, funeral parties voyaged from a distance to inter the illustrious dead. Ac- cording to Donald Munro, Dean of the Isles, who visited the place in the 16th century, and to the his- torian Buchanan, and a thousand other writers who copied the Dean, or copied one another, there stood within this area tliree tombs, formed like little chapels, bearing on their ends or gabels the inscrip- tions, " Tumulus Regum Scotiie," " Tumulus Reguin ION A. 145 lONA. Hvbernise," and " Tumulus Regum Norwegire," and enclosing the ashes respectively of 48 kings of Scotland. 4 kings of Ireland, and 8 kings of Norway. The tombs, if ever they existed, — and they almost to a certainty never did — have utterly disappeared. King Duncan of Scotland, indeed, and Neill Frassacli, the son of Fergal of Ireland, who died in 778, actually were buried in lona; but some of the other kings pleaded for were fabulous, some died prior to the date of Columba's landing on the island, some are known to have been interred at Dunfermline or Arbroath, and the small remainder may or may not, for anj-thing either documents or monuments say on the subject, have been, as Mun- ro says, '" eirded in this very fair kirkzaird, weil biggit about -with staine and lyme." A lump of red granite is pointed out as the tomb of a French king; but may have been the monu- mental stone of a person nearly as nameless as it- self. Yet the grave-stones of lona are so veiy nu- merous, and have collectively so imposing an ap- pearance, as to impress a visitor with a much stronger conviction of the former grandeur and reputed sanc- tity of the island, tlian is conveyed by the contempla- tion of its ruined structures. They seem to lie in rows in a north and south direction, but, on the whole, are huddled together in a manner rather con- fused than orderly or tasteful. "While the greater proportion are plain, the rest are, in many instances, finely carved with knots and sculptured imitations of vegetables with figures of recumbent warriors, and with other emblems and devices, and seem to be mor. imental of the chiefs of the isles, Norwegian sea-kings, influential ecclesiastics, and other persons of considerable station or note. None of the entire collection exhibit certain or intrinsic evidence of liigh antiquity. Some with Runic sculptures may be as old as the 9th century, the date of the com- mencement of the Danish invasion, but may, on tlie other hand, be just as probably more modeiii Two, with mutilated Erse or Irish inscriptions — one of them commemorative of a certain Donald Long- shanks — appear to be among the most ancient. One commemorates a ]\Iacdonald, and another the Angus ()g who was with Bruce at Bannockburn. Many statues and monuments, additional to the profuse mass which previously lay exposed, were, in 1830, discovered and laid bare in a search conducted by Mr. Rae Wilson ; and they possibly, though not very probably, suggest the concealed existence of a suffi- cient number of others to verify the assertion of Sacheverel, that, about the year 1600, copies were taken of the inscriptions of 300, and deposited with the family of Argyle. The chapel of the nunnery — usually the first of the ruins shown to visitors — seems next in antiquity to the chapel of St. Oran. The nuns to whom it be- longed were canonesses of St. Augustine, and were not displaced at the Reformation. Nor, while pop- ish themselves, had the)' an)"- Culdee predecessors ; no monastic establishment for females having existed during the period of Columba's discipline. The building is in good preservation, about 60 feet by 20. its roof anciently vaulted and partly remaining, and its arches round, with plain fluted soffits. As the architecture is purely Norman, without a vestige or a concomitant ornament of the pointed style, it might, if judged simply by its own merits, or apart from the evidence of circumstances, be assigned a higher date than the period of the Romish influence. Though a court is shown, and also some vestiges of what is pronounced to have been a church, the other buildings belonging to the nunneiy have so far dis- appeared that they cannot be intelligibly traced. In the interior of the chapel is the tombstone of the II. last prioress, with a Latin inscription, in lid British characters, round the ledge. A figure of the lady, in has relief, in barbarous style, and in the attitude of praj-ing to the Virgin Mary, is supported on each side by the figure of an angel, and has under its feet the address, " Sancta Maria, oia pro me." The Virgin Mary holds the Infant in her arms, and has on her head a mitre, surmounted by a sun and moon. Within the building are many other tombs, but none with inscriptions or carvings. The chief ruin on the island is that of the Abbey church or cathedral. Originally it seems to have sustained only the former character • but afterwards it became cathedral as well as Abbey church, the bishops of the Isles occasionally adopting lona as the seat of their residence and the centre of their influence. The building is manifestly of two dis- tinct periods, both difficult or impossible of fixation. The part eastward of the tower is probabl}' of the same date as the chapel of the nuimery; and the other part belongs probably to the 14th century. '•At present," says Dr. M'Culloch, "Its form is that of a cross; the length being aljout 160 feet, tlie breadth 24, and the length of the transept 70. That of the choir is about 60 feet. The tower is about 70 feet high, divided into three stories. It is lighted on one side, above, by a plain slab, perforated by quatrefoils, and on the other by a catherine-wheel, or marigold window, with spiral mullions. The tower stands on four cylindrical pillars of a clumsy Norman design, about 10 feet high and 3 in diameter. Similar proportions pervade the other pillars in the church ; tlu-ir capitals being short, and, in some part, sculptured with ill-designed and grotesque figures, still very sharp and well-preserved; among which that of an angel weighing souls (as it is called by Pennant), while the devil depresses one scale with his claw, is alwa3's pointed out with great glee. This sculpture, however, represents an angel weigh- ing the good deeds of a man against In's evil ones. It is not an uncommon featui-e in similar buildings, and occurs, among other places, at Montvilliers; where also the devil, who is at the opposite scale, tries to depress it with his fork, as is done elsewhere with his claw. The same allegory is found in detail in the legends; and it may also be seen in some of the works of the Dutch and Flemish painters. The arches are pointed, with a curvature intermediate between those of the first and second styles, or the sharp and the ornamented, the two most beautiful periods of Gothic architecture; their soffits being fluted with plain and rude moulding. The corded moulding separates the shaft from the capital of the pillars, and is often prolonged through the walls at the same level. The larger windows vary in form, but are everywhere inelegant. There is a second, which is here the clerestory tier; the windows some- times terminating in a circular arch, at others in trefoil bends ; thewhole being surmounted by a cor- bel table." Within tlie cathedral are several monu- ments, the most noticeable of which is one of an ab- bot in the table form, exhibiting a fine recumbent sacerdotal figure in high relief with vestments and crosier, having four lions at the angles, and bearing an inscription. Other ruins and relics are either very much dilapi- dated, or of inconsiderable importance. Various parts of the abbey may he traced ; but they are un- interesting and without ornament. Four arches of the cloister are distinct; three walls exist of what was probably the refectoiy. The remains of the bishop's liouse. also, are clearly traceable, but do not deserve notice. Various little clusters of stone and fragments of wall are supposed to have been chapels! Buchanan says that there were on the K lOXA. 146 IRVINE. island several chapels founded by kings of Scoclaiul and chiefs of the Isles; but, as he joins the loniaii- cera respecting: the tombs of the kings and other subjects, he fails to command unhesitating belief. A causeway, called ^Iain-street, ran between the cathedral and the nunnery, and was joined by two others called Martyr-street and Royal-street, which are said to have communicated with the beach. The remains of the causeway are, in some places, .sufficiently perfect ; but, in others, they have, like the removeable stones of the buildings, been carried off by the inhabitants for the erection of cottages and enclosures. A current story says that there were, at one time, 360 crosses on the island, and that, after the Keformation, the synod of Argyle ordered 60 of them to be thrown into the sea. Whatever may have been the real number, traces now exist of only four. One of these is beautifully carved; this and another are little injured; a third has been broken off at the height of aljout 10 feet; and a fourth exhibits only its stump in a little earth- en mound. Various fragments, converted into grave- stones, appear, from the devices and inscriptions which they bear, to have certainly been votive. Numerous spots on the island, sliglitly marked in some cases by natural and in others by artificial features, are identified in various ways with Colunil)a, and, for the most part, painted out as scenes of pro- digies and saintly exploits. Even Columba's own successors, Cumin and Adamnan, men who ^\TOte within about a century after his death, and were at the head of the lona establishment at the period of its greatest glory, betrayed, to a surprising degree, the weakness of magnifying the remarkable events of his life ; and the Komish monks who succeeded, and who belonged to a community notable for the invention everywhere of the wildest saintly legends, could hardly fail, in such a place as lona, to be car- lied round in such a whirl of creativeness as would prevent their getting a correct view of any one mat- ter which they related to visitors or sent down the current of tradition. The destruction or irrecovera- ble dispersion of an alleged great library of lona, ascribed to the execution of an act of the Convention of Estates in 1561, and usually spoken of with mingled lugubriousness and indignation, as if it oc- casioned the irretrievable loss of valuable books, and was an act more Gothic than any ever perpetrated by Goths, has probaljly done little else than relieve sober inquirers into tacts from a thousand perplexities additional to those of the traditions current on the island, and almost certainly made away with no book worth possessing which was not elsewhere preserved. lONA, a quoad sacra parish, comprising the island of lona and five tarms in the Eoss district of the island of Mull, within the quoad civilia parish of Kilfinichen, in Argyleshire. It was constituted by the Court of Teinds in June, 1845. It is in the presbytery of Mull, and synod of Argyle. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £120; glebe, "il 10s., with right of peats. The parish church is a government one. Tliere is also a Free church ; whose receipts in 1855 amounted to £20 Os. 9d. There are a gov- ernment school, a charity sciiool, a Gaelic school, and two female schools. lORSA. See l-:ARSAy. IRELAND-HEAD. Duxrossxess. IRISHLAW, a hill, of 1.576 feet of altitude above sea-level, in the parish of Largs, A^'rshire. IRONGATE-HILL. See Boruowstowness. IROXGRAY. See Kirkpatrick-Iroxgray. IRON ISLE, a sunken rock of considerable lengtli, but visible only at low water, about a mile from'tlie shore of Brown-head, on the south coast of the island of Arran. IRVINE (The), a river in Ayrshire, ibrming, from a short distance beneath its source, to its en- trance into the frith of Clyde, the boundary-line l)etvveen the districts of Cunningham and Kyle. What, in the region earliest drained, bears the name of the Irvine, rises in two head-waters, the one in a moss at Meadow-head, on the eastern boundary of the parish of Loudon or of Ayrshire, and the other a mile eastward in the parish of Avondale in Lan- arkshire, near the battle-field of Driimclog. The rills making a junction a mile below their respective sources, the united stream traces the boundary of Ayrshire a mile southward, and then turns west- ward, enters the interior of the county, and thence, till very near its embouchure, pursues a course which — with the exception of very numerous but brief and beautiful sinuosities — is uniformly due west. About 2^ miles from the ])oint of its entering the county, it is joined from the north by Glen water. This, in strict propriety, is the parent- stream, on account both of its length of course and its volume of water; for the stream of the Glen rises at Crossbill in Renfrewshire, a mile north of the Ayrshire frontier, and runs 6 miles southward, drinking up five rills in its progress, to the point of confluence with the In'ine. Swollen by this large tributary, the Irvine immediately passes the village of Derval on the right, — If mile onward, the village of Newmilns, — at 2^ miles farther on, the village of Galston, on the left. A mile and a quaiter below Galston it receives from the north Polbaith bum ; f of a mile lower down, it is joined from the south by Cessnock water; and 3 miles westward in a straight line — though probably double the distance along its channel, the course here being almost emu- lative of the lesser windings of the Forth — it passes Kilmarnock and Riccarton on opposite sides, and receives on its right bank the tributary of Kilmai- nock water. Nearly 2f miles onward, measured in a straight line, but 4 miles or upwards along its bed, it is joined on the same bank by Carmel water; and 2h miles farther on, it receives, still on the same bank, the tribute of the Annack. The river now runs ]^ mile in a direction west of north, passing through the town of Irvine at about mid-distance ; it then suddenly bends round in a fine sweep till it assumes a southerly direction ; and opposite the town of Irvine— at 3 furlongs' distance from its channel — when running southward, abruptly expands into a basin f of a mile broad, which receives Gainock river at its north-west extremity, and communicates by a narrow mouth or strait with the frith of Clyde. Tiie parishes which come down on the Irvine's south bank are Galston, Riccarton, and Dundonald; and those which it washes on its north side are Loudon, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, Dreghorn and Ir- vine. If the beauty of the stream, gliding slowly on its pebbled bed, the richness and verdure of its haughs, the openness of its course, the quality of the adjacent soil, the progress of agriculture along its banks, the array of noblemen's and gentlemen's seats looking down upon its meaiiderings, the crowd- ed population and the displays of industry and wealth which salute it in its progress, are taken into view, the Irvine will be pronounced, if not one of the thrillingly attractive rivers of Scotland, at least one of the most pleasing, and one on whose scenery combined patriotism and taste will fix a more satis- fied eye than on that of streams which have drawn music from an hundred harps, and poesy from clus- ters of men gifted with the powers of description. The mansions of note situated near the river demand notice in crowds, and must be disposed of in simple enumeration. Loudon castle and Cessnock- house, both the residence of noble owners, Lanfine, Holms, IRVINE. 147 IRVINE. Kilmarnock-house, Peel-house, Caprington, Faiily- liouse, Craig-house, Newfield, Auchens, Shewaltoii, some of them the homes of men distinguished by title or important iHiiuence in their country, — these mansions and others, besides many handsome vil- las, overlook tlie river. On the banks of its tn- but;iries, too, are similar adoniings, — such as Craw- fordland and Dean-castle on the Kilmarnock, Eow- allan, Kilmaurs, and Busby castles on the Carmel, arid Lainshaw, Annack-lodge, and Bourtreehill on the Annack. IRVINE, a parish, containing a royal burgh of its own name, on the southern border of the district of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded by the parishesofStevenston, Kilwinning, Stewai-ton, Dreg- horn, and Dundonald. On all sides, except the north-east, its boundary is traced by rivers ; on the east and south-east, by the Annack, — on the south, by the Irvine, — on the south-west, by the Garnock, — and on the north-west and north, by the Lugton. Its length north-eastward is about 4^ miles ; and its greatest breadth is 3:V miles. A small district on the left bank of the river Irvine, on which stands the large suburb of Fullarton, was formerly viewed as belonging to the parish ; but in 1823 it was de- cided by the court of session to be comprehended in Dundonald. The south-western division of the parish is low and sandy ; but in some parts it con- sists of a light loam ; and — with the exception of a sandy common of about 300 acres north-west of the town — it all produces heavy crops of all sorts of corn and grass. The north-eastern division, espe- cially toward the extremity, is more elevated, though not strictly hilly, and has a soil of stiffish clay. In this district, the burgh possesses a considerable tract of land which, half-a-century ago, yielded a revenue of about £.500 a-year. The face of the country is greatly beautified by circular clumps of plantation on most of the eminences. Most of the farm houses are large, neat, and indicative, both in their own aspect and in tliat of the offices and lands around them, of prosperity and opulence. The real rental of the arable lands in IS-tl was £5,273. Assessed })ioperty in I860, inclusive of the burgh, £16.059. Bourtreehill, on the Annack, about l^ mile fiom tlie town, is the only gentleman's seat. But the beautiful and finely wooded policy of Egliktox Castle [which see] stretches far into the interior, and comes down into conterminousness with the town-lands of the burgh. From some of the rising grounds toward the north-east, fascinating views are obtained of the lower part of the parish and ad- jacent districts on the foreground, and of the bril- liant scenery of the frith of Clyde and the bay of Ayr in the distance. Near Bourti-eehill is an old castel- lated structure, called Stone-castle, belonging to the Earl of Eglinton, whicli is said to be the remains of an ancient nunneiy, where there were a chapel, a cemetery, and a small village. The parish is tra- versed for about a mile between the Garnock and the Irvine by the Glasgow and Ayr railway; and is cut northward, north-eastward, and eastward, by great lines of road from the town respectively to Kilwinning, Glasgow, and Kilmarnock. Popula- tion in 1831, 5,200; in 1861, 5,695. Houses, 734. This pai-ish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton. btipend, £311 12s. 6d.; glebe, £25. Unappropriated teinds, £137 5s. 8d. The parish church was built in 1774, and extensively repaired in 1830, and con- tains 1,800 sittings. There is a Freechurcli ; whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £301 os. 4d. There are two United Presbyterian churches, the East and the Relief, the former built in 1810 and containing 800 sittings, the latter of older date and containing 856 sittings. There is a Baptist chapel, which was built in 1839, and contains 600 sittings. There is also a Roman Catholic chapel. On the Census Sab- bath in 1851, the maximum attendance at the parish church was 950; at the Free church, 380; at the two United Presbyterian churches, 1,140; at the Baptist chapel, 130; and at the Roman Catholic chapel, 220. The principal school is the Irvine academy, which was built in 1814 at the cost of £2,250, and contains accommodation for about 500 pupils. It comprises three departments, and is con- ducted by a rector and two masters, each of whom receives £30 of salary, besides fees. A great many of the pupils attending it come from a distance, and board in the town. The other schools are a sub- scription school, with an attendance of 65; a charity school, with an attendance of 90; two male adven- ture schools, with an attendance of 260; and two ladies' schools, with an attendance of 30. These statistics are entirely proper to Irvine, as parish and municipal burgh ; and do not include anything within the suburb of Fullarton, which, though within the parliamentary burgh, belongs to the parish of Dundonald. The ancient church of Irvine belonged to the monks of Kilwinning, and was served by a vicar. In 1516, the produce or value of its property, was annually 39 bolls of meal, 9 bolls and 2 firlots of bear, "4 huggats of wine," and £17 6s. 8d. for a leased portion of its tithes. Before the Reformation the church had several altars, one of which appears to have been dedicated to St. Peter. On the bank of the river, near the church, stood a chapel, dedi- cated to the Tirgin Mary; and in 1451, Alicia Camp- bell, Lady Loudon, granted four tenements in the town, and an annual rent of 5 merks from another tenement, to maintain a chaplain for its altar. To a chapel in the town — but whether this or another does not appear — the provost of the collegiate church of Corstorpliine granted, in 1540, extensive posses- sions within the burgh, such as yield a considerable revenue. At the south corner of the present church- yard stood a convent of Carmelite or White friars, founded in the 14th century by Fullarton of Fullar- ton. In 1399, Reynald Fullarton of Crosby and Dreghorn, granted to the friars an annual rent of 6 merks and 10 shillings from his lands. In 1572, the houses and revenues of the friars, with the pro- perty of all chapels, altarages, prebends, or colleges within the royalty, were granted by James VI. to the burgh, to be applied to a foundation bearing the name of " The king's foundation of the school of Irvine." This parish was the birth-place of the extinct fa- natical sect called Buchanites, whose principal tenets were, that there should be a community of goods and bodies, and that true believers had no occasion to die, but might all pass into heaven, as Elijah did, in an embodied state. Its founder was a woman of the name of Simpson, or Mrs. Buchan, who, having been captivated by the preaching of Mr. Wiyte, the Relief minister of Irvine, at a sacrament in the vicinity of Glasgow, insinuated herself into favour with him and with some influential members of his congregation, and soon began to draw wondering attention in the burgh. She possessed a most per- suasive eloquence, and, among her converts, or en- thusiastic adherents, numbered a lieutenant of marines, an old lawj-er, and Mr. "Wliyte the minis- ter. But her ravings became so wild as to arou.se popular indignation, and draw down upon the place of her nocturnal assemblies, mobljings and assaults which only magisterial interference was able to quell. In jMay 1784, the magistrates thought it prudent to dismiss her from the town, and, in IRVINE. 148 IRVINE. order to protect her from insult, accompanied her about a mile beyond the royalty ; yet they could not prevent the mob from pushing; her into ditclies, and otherwise inflicting npon iiur contempt and maltreatment. .She lodged for tlie nif Islay, Jtu-;i, Scarba, and Muckairn, to Sir John Ca'npbell of Od- der — then a great favourite at court — for an annual feu-duty, of which the proportion was £500 sterling for Islay. All these lands were sold again to Camp- bell of'Shawfield for £12,000; and the islands of Jura and Scarba were afterwards sold for a larger sum than tiiat paid originally for the whole. The Emigrant ship, the Exmouth, in May. 1847, struck on an iron-bound part of the north-west coast of Islay, and went almost instantly to pieces, when 220 persons were drowned. ISLAY SOUND, the narrow channel, about 8 miles long, between the islands of Islay and Jura. It is little more than a mile in width; but its navi- gation is very dangerous from the rapidity of its tides and thecross and short seas which sweep it. The shores are abrupt but not high, rarely exceeding 100 feet. ISLE-MARTIN, a small island, and fishing-sta- tion, in the north-west of the sea-loch of Lochbroom, and in the parish of Lochbroom, 5 miles north-we-it of Ullapool, nominally in Eoss-shire, but really in Cromartyshire. ISLE" OF BENLEVEN. See Benleven. ISLE OF LOCHAR. See Lochar Moss. ISLE OF MAY. See May (The). ISLE OF WHITHORN, a village and small sea- part in the parish of Whitliorn, on the east coast of Wigtonshire; 2 miles north of the promontory of Burgh-iiead, and 3 miles south-east of the burgh o| Whithorn. It stands at the head of a small bay, which is almost land-locked by a peninsula ^ a mile long, formed by an islet, lying across its mouth. The har!)our is, in consequence, well-sheltered and safe, and possesses internal capaciousness and exter- nal advantages of position which might apparently be turned to large account. A pier, erected about Go yeai's ago by the aid of the Convention of Royal Burghs, oti'ers accommodation to the few vessels which the unimportantcommerceof the distiictkeeps employed. The Galloway steamer touches here on her way to and from Liverpool; and small vessels sail weekly hence to Whitehaven, and other English ports, engaged principally in the importation of coals. The little port communicates by good public roads with Whithorn, Wigton, and Garlieston. On the shore at the village are vestiges of an ancient chapel or church of small size, which the learned author of Caledonia says is traditionally reported to have been the earliest place of Christian worship in Scotland. Near the village is a weak chalybeate spring, whose waters are sufficiently celebrious to draw to the place invalid visitors. There is a P>ee church in the village. Population, 458. Houses. 78. ISLE-ORONSAY, an island, about ^ a mile long, contiguous to the middle of the north coast of the island of North Uist, in the Outer Hebrides. It is insulated only at high water; and is the best land- ing place for the contiguous district of North Uist. Here is a post-office station. ISLE-TANERA, or Taxeramore, the largest of the Summer Islands, in Lochbroom, Ross-shire. Sec Summer Islands. ISSAY, an island, nearly 2 miles long, lying in Dunvegan bay, opposite the middle of Vaternish, and belonging to the parish of Duirinish, in the island of Skye. It is also called Ellan-lsa or the Island of Jesus. Its surface is fertile. Population, 90. ITHAN. See Ythan. J JACKSON-HILL, a hill, about 500 feet high, in the east of the parish of St. Cyrus, Kincardineshire. JACKTON, a modern village in the parish of East Kilbride, Lanarkshire. It stands on the road to Eaglesham, about a mile from the White Cart, or boundary witli Renfrewshire. JAMES (St.), an ancient parish, now included in the parish of Kelso, in Roxburghshire. See Kelso. JAMES (St.). ; ee Foufar and Glasgow. JAMESTON, a small village pleasantly situated on Meggot water, in the northern part of the parish of Westerkirk, about 9 miles north-west of the town of Langholm, in Dumfries-shire. It was built about the year 1790, to accommodate 40 miners and their families, in consequence of the discovery of a mine of antimony a little to the eastward of its site. This mine, the only one of its class in Britain, produced, from 1793 to 1798, 100 tons of regulus of antimony, valued aggregately at £8,400 sterling, besides a pro- portionate quantity of sulphuretted antin)«*ny of less value. A company, one-half of whose shares was retained by Sir James Johnstone of Glendinning, the proprietor of the soil, made very spirited exer- tions at the commencement of their enterprise. The village was provided with grazing-grounds, a store, and other appliances of convenience and comfort; the miners were expected to work only six hours a- day, and were provided with a library for their own use, and a school-house for their children ; a smelt- ing-house and all requisite apparatus were furnished at the mine ; and an excellent road, with 4 bridges in its course, was constructed down the vale of the ^leggot to connect the village with the main lines of communication through the countiy. Yet, from some cause which seems not well-explained, mining operations were suspended about the close of the century, and have not since been resumed. JAjNIESTON, a village in the parish of C-ontin, i Ross-shire. Population, 115. JAMESTON, a post-office village in the parish of JANETOWN. 153 JEDBURGH. I?o:iliill. Dumbartonshire. It is also called Damhead. Population, 869. JAMIMA. See Jemima. JANETOWN, a fishing villag;e in the parish of Lochcarron, Ross- shire. It stands on the north side 3t' Locli-Carron, 3 miles from its head, and on the road from Strome-ferry to Dingwall, at the point wliere the branch road goes off to Gairloch, 4 miles north-east of Strome-ferry, J 4 south-south-east of Shieldag on Losh-Torridon, and 49J soutli-west by west of Dingwall. It has a good inn and a few pretty good shops anil cottages, but otlierwisa consists of a straggling row of poor huts, about a mile in length. Each family, for tlie most part, tenants a small lot of land, and owns a fishing boat. Population, in 1861, 1,418. JARDINE HALL, the seat of Sir William Jar- dine, Bart., in the parish of Applegartli, Dumfries- shire. It is an elegant modern edifice, situated on rich low ground on the left bank of the Annan, 4^ miles north-north-west of Lockerby. Opposite to it, on the right bank of the river, and within the parish of Lochniaben, stands Spedlin tower, t!ie residence of Sir William's ancestors. This is vastly thick in its walls, has round turrets at its angles, and is strongly vaulted. Over its strong arched entrance door, are the armorial bearings of tlie Jardines, with the date 1605; and over much of its walls are coatings of ivy. The surrounding population long made this tower the scene of one of their most notable ghost stories; so that the place figures largely in the legends of Lowland superstition; — a striking contrast to the association of Jai'dine-Hall itself, in the present pro- prietor's time, witli the advancement of physical science. JED (The), a small river of Roxburglishire. It rises on the south-west side of Carlin-Tooth, one of the Cheviot mountains, in the upper part of the par- isli of Soutlidean, at a spot If mile south of the sum- mit of Peel-fell on the boundary-line with England; and to the parish-church of Southdean, a distance of 5 miles, it pursues a southerly direction, and receives in its progress tlie waters of Black-burn and Carter- burn. It now flows 2| miles eastward, and tlien re- sumes its southward course. Over the last mile, and likewise over 1^ mile further, it divides South- dean on its left bank from the upper part of Jedburgli on its right. It now I'uns across a small wing of tlie latter, and then flowing 2^ miles south-westward to Groundiesnook, it wasiies Upper Jedburgh and Southdean on its left bank, and Oxnam and Lower Jedburgh on its right. At Groundiesnook it enters tlie lower division of Jedburgh, and thence to the Teviot a little below Bonjedward, bisects it length- wise from south to north through the middle, cutting it into two not vejy unequal parts, and flowing joy- ously past the town of Jedburgh. Its entire length of course, exclusive of its numerous little sinuosities, is about 17 miles. Its tributaries, tliough luimerous, are all tiny. Its vale, as seen from Carter-fell, is gorgeously beautiful ; and even, as seen in detail, exhibits many a close scene, so full of character as to have fired the muse of Thomson and Burns, as well as of many a minor poet. A tourist, indeed, sees nothing in it to compete with tlie largeness of the Tweed or the Nith; yet, within tlie brief distance of 2 or 3 miles — especially in the parts immediately above the town of Jedburgli — he will survey, though on a small scale, more of the elements of landscape tlian during a whole day's ride even in the High- lands. The rockiness of the river's bed, the brisk- ness of its current, the pureness of its waters, and, above all, the endless combinations of slope and precipice, of scaur and grassy knoll and mimic haugh, with shrubs and coppices on its richly sylvan banks, produce many a scene of picturesqueness and ro- mance. To its other attractions it adds that of being an excellent trouting-stream. JEDBURGH, a parish in the south side of the Teviotdale district of Roxburghshire. It contains the royal burgh of Jedburgh, and the villages of Bongate, Bonjedward, Lanton, and Ulston. It con- sists of two sections, southern and northern, lying a mile asunder at their nearest point of mutual ap- proach, and both stretching lengthwise from soutli to north. Tlie southern division, though the smaller, is the original Jedburgh ; and it is bounded on the northeast and east by Oxnam, on the south by Northumberland, and on the west by Southdean. Its form is nearly a circle of 3J miles in diameter, with a projection northward of irregular outline, 2i miles long, and about f of a mile in average breadtli. Its surface rapidly descends from the water-shed of the Cheviots on its southern boundary to an undulating plain, shooting up occasionally in beautiful, and in some instances high, green conical hills, and ploughed toward the north by the narrow vale of the Jed. The northern and larger division has the outline of an irregular pentagon, with a small oblong figure projecting at a wide angle and from a brief line of attachment on the east; and it is bounded by Ancrum, Crailing, Eckford, Hounam, Oxnam, Southdean, and Bedrule. In extreme length, it measures 6^ miles, and, in extreme breadth, exclusive of the eastward projection, 5^ miles. The projecting part stretches north-west and south-east, and measures 2f miles by 1^. From the deep, and, in some places, furrow-like vale of the Jed, the surface rises undulatingly on both sides, in an enchanting variety of form, to the height of about 300 feet above the level of the stream, cut by numerous ravines, and exceedingly varied in the outline of its knolls and hillocks. But on its west side, first along the boundary from tiie southern end onward, and next in the interior, it rises into the regularly ascending and elongated Dunian, and at the site and in the vicinity of the town sends oft' the roots of that lofty hill almost from the very edge of the Jed, leaving hardly suffi- cient space for a convenient street arrangement of the burgh. See the article Dunian. Behind the northern part of the hill, or along the southern frontier, the surface is a level lu.xuriant haugh, watered by the Teviot, which here forms, for 3J miles, the boundary-line, and spreads freely around it the wealth of soil and the mirthfulness of landscape which distinguish the lower and longer part of its course. On the east Oxnam-water, flow- ing northward to the Teviot, forms for a mile the boundary-line, and, for another mile, runs across the connecting part or neck of the projecting district. About sixty years ago, not more than a fifth or a sixth part of the parish was arable ground, while all the rest was pastoral; but now the supei'ficies of lands in tillage, in pasture, and under wood, is nearly in the proportion respectively of 29, 15, and 5. The farm buildings are neat, and, in some in- stances, almost elegant; the enclosures are tasteful and sheltering; the sides of the Dunian and of other lofty hills are beautified with enclosure and culture a considerable way up their ascent; and almost all the land which modern methods of im- provement could reclaim have been sulijected to the plough. The soil is necessarily various; in some places a toughish clay, — in others, a mixture of clay with sand or gravel, — and in the lower parts of the vale of the Jed, as well as in the valley of the Teviot, a rich and fertile loam. The higher parts of the Dunian, and especially the upland.s JEDBQUGH. 154 JEDBURGH. alon'il wars of 16-4") and 1745, Old Keith was the scene of events meriting some notice. On the oOtli June, 1645, the army of Baillie occupied an adv;uitageous position near the old church, which then stooil at the south-western extremity of tlie town. Montrose endeavoured to draw him from this position by offer- ing to fight 'on fair ground;' but the Covenanter declined the proposal. In 1745 Captain Glasgow, an Irishman in the French service, encountered a Govemment party stationed here, defeated them, and carried otf i50 prisoners. The only other skirmish recorded by tradition to have occurred in this vicinity, was about a century before this period, when Peter Koy Macgregor, a Highland free-bootcr who infested this part of the country with an or- ganized gang of robbers, was taken by Gordon of Glengerack, after a desperate resistance, and exe- cuted at Edinburgh. New KErrii was begun to be built about the year 1750, on the eastern dcelivitj' of a gentle eminence south-east of Old Keith, on the same side of the Isla, and then forming part of a barren moor. It is built on a regular plan, consisting of three prin- cipal streets, intersected by lanes, with the market- place, a spacious square, near the centre of the town. The town-house, situated in the market-place, is a plain building. In 1823 tlie Earl of Seafield, superior of tlie barony of Keith, erected a commodi- ous inn, containing a large hall for the courts. The several places of worship, and the parochial school, are ornamental to the town. A large excellent subscription library was established in 1810. The town has offices of the Union bank, the Aberdeen To-wn and County bank, and the North of Scotland bank. It has also a savings' bank, several insur- ance agencies, a total abstinence society, and a liter- ary association. The town is lighted with gas. Several of the manufactories, noticed in our ac- count of the parish, are situated in it; and, previ- ous to the general introduction of the cotton trade, considerable work was done in yarn and linen manufactures. A weekly market is held on Friday for grain and other agricultural produce; and fairs are held on the first Friday of January, the first Friday of March, the first Tuesday of April, old style, the Friday after the 22d of May, the first Tuesday of June, old style, the Friday after the 1st of July, the Wednesday after the first Tuesday of S-iptember, old style, the third Tuesday of Novem- ber, old style, and the Friday before Martinmas. Several of these fairs are large cattle markets. Public coaches pass tlirough, connecting Elgin and Inverness with the Great North of Scotland rail- way at Huntly; and an extension of that railway is at present ui course of construction to Keith. Pop- ulation of New Keith and of Ol I Keith, in 1841, 1,804; in 1861, 2,648. Houses, 485. KEITH, in Haddingtonshire. See Humbie. KEITH (Inch). See Ixchkeith, and Keithinch. KEITH (The). See Blairgowrie and Humbie. KEITH-HALL axd KINKELL, an united par- ish in the district of Garioch, Aberdeenshire. It contains the post-office station of Keith-hall, and is adjacent on tlie west side to the burgli of Inveruiy, and at the south-west extremity to the burgh of Kintore. It is bounded by the parishes of Chapel of Garioch, Kourtie, Udny, New Machar, Fintray, Kintore, and Inverury. Its length southward is about 5^ miles; and its greatest breadth is about 5 miles. The rivers Ury and Don trace the whole ol the western boundary. Keith-hall was anciently called Montkeggie, and took its present name after the greater part of it became the property of Keith, the Earl Marischal. Kinkell took its name, which signifies " the head church," from the circumstance that six subordinate churches anciently belonged to its parsonage. In 1754, the Lords Commissioners fank, tiie National Bank, the City of Glasgow Bank, and the Briti.sli Linen Company's Bani<. Kelso also has consider- able rank in matters connected with publication and literature. It was the birth-place of the famous Ballantyne press, and has given a considerable numljer of books to the world. Two newspapers are at present published in it, — the Kelso Chronicle and the Kelso Mail. It has, as already noticed, a great public library and a scientific museum. It lias likewise two other public libraries, two news- rooms, an agricultural society, and several philan- thropic and religious institutions; and it is the scene or centre of meetings of various kinds for ahletic exercises and public sports. By a charter of James VL, dated 2d July, 1G07, the abbacy of Kelso was erected into a temporal lordship and barony, called ' the lordship and barony of Halidean,' comprehending the town and lands of Kelso. The governing charter is considered to be one dated 8th I>ovember, 1634, by which the town is speciall}' erected into a free burgh-of-barony, and the power of incorporating it is conferred on Robert, Earl of Roxburgh, and his heirs. A peculiar kind of government was established over it; but now, by the adoption of the police act for Scotland, a body of commissioners chosen by the rate-payers manage all police affairs, and three bailies preside in the biu-gh courts. The property of the burgh consists of various items, and yields about £300 a-year. The customs and market dues belong to tlie supe rior. A sheriff's small debt court is held on the second Tuesday of February, April, June, August October, and December; and a court of quarter sessions is held on the first Friday of every month. Kelso is the seat of a union poors' house for 16 cir- cumjacent parishes. The building was recently erected, and is plain, substantial, and commodious. A spacious public park, situated to the east of the town, was recently presented to the inhabitants by Mrs. Robertson of Ednam-house. From her nephew, who perished in the search for Sir John Franklin, it is called Shedden park. A noble gateway to it was erected by subscription of the inhabitants to mark their gratitude. Population of the town in 1841, 4,594; in 1861, 4,300. Houses, 553. Kelso was originally called, or rather had its mo- dernized name originally written, Calchow, — a word identical in meaning with Chalkheugh, the existing designation of one of the most remarkable natural objects in its landscape. In its ancient history it figures as a rendezvous of armies, as a place of in- ternational negociation, as a scene of frequent con- flict, and as a spot smiled upon by kings and nobles. Of events not identified with "the history of its abbey, the earliest noticeable one on record occurred ill 1209. when, on account of a Papal interdict being imposed on England, the Bishop of Rochester left his see, and took refuge in Kelso. Ten years later William de Valoines, Lord-chamberlain of Scotland, died in the town. In 1255, Henry III. of England and his queen, during the visit which they made to their son-in-law and daughter, Alexander III. and his royal consort, at Eoxburgh-cnstle, were intro- duced "with great processional pomp to Kelso and its abbey, and entertained, with the (dnef nobility of both kingdoms, at a sumptuous royal banquet. In 1297, Edward I., at the head of his vast army of in- vasion, having entered Scotland, and relieved the f Roxburgh-castle, his infant son, James III., )eing then with his mother in the camp, was ■arried by the nobles, in presence of the assembled iruiv, to the abbey, and there pompously crowned, md treated with royal honours. In 1487, commis- -ioncrs met at Kelso to prolong a truce for the con- servation of peace along the unsettled territory of {be Borders, and to concoct measures preliminary to a treaty of marriage between the eldest son of James III. and the eldest daughter of Edward IV. The disastrous results of the battle of Flodden, in 1513, seem — in consequence of James IV.'s death, and of the loss of the protection which his authority and presence had given — to have, in gome w-ay. Temporarily enthralled the town to the Lord of Hume, and occasioned, as we have ali-eady seen, the ■xpulsion of the abbot from his monastery, — the first of a series of events which terminated in the ruin of the pile. In 1515, the Duke of Albany-, icting as regent, visited Kelso in the course of a ')rogress of civil pacification, and received onerous lepositions respecting the oppressive conduct of Lord Hume, the Earl of Angus, and other barons, n 1520, Sir James Hamilton, marching with 400 nen from the Merse, to the assistance of Andrew Ker, baron of Fernihirst, in a dispute with the Earl of Angus, was overtaken at Kelso by the baron of L'essford, then warden of the marches, and defeated in a brief battle. In 1522, Kelso and the countiy between it and the German ocean, received the first lashings of the scourge of war in the angry invasion of Sc(jtland by the army of Henry VIII. One portion of the English forces having marched into the interior from their fleet in the Forth, and having formed a junction with another portion which hung on the Border under Lord Dacres, the united forces, among other devastations, destroyed one moiety of Kelso by fire, laid bare the other moiety by plundering, and inflicted merciless havoc upon not a few parts of the abbey. So irritating were their deeds, that the men of jNIerse and Teviotdale came headlong on them in a mass, and showed such inclination, ac- companied with not a little power, to make reprisals, that the devastators prudently retreated wdlhin their own frontier. After the rupture between James V. and Henry VIII., the Earl of Huntly, who had been npi)ointed guardian of the marches, garrisoned Kelso and Jedburgh, and, in August 1542, set out from these towns in search of an invading force of 3,000 men, under Sir Robert Bowes, fell in with them at Haldon-Rigg, and, after a hard contest, broke down their power and captured their chief officers. A more numerous army being sent northward by Henry, under the Duke of Norfolk, and James stationing himself with a main army of defence ou KELSO. 175 KELSO. Fala-inoor, the Earl of Huiitly received detach- ments which auc^mented his force to 10,000 men, and so checked the invaders along the marches as to preserve the open country from devastation. In spite of his strenuous efforts, Kelso, and some villages in its vicinity, were entered, plundered, and given up to the Hames; and they were eventually delivered from ruinous spoliation, only by the i'oe being compelled by want of provision, and the in- clemency of the season, to retreat into their own territory. When Henry VIII. 's fury against Scot- land became rekindled about the affair of the pro- posed marriage of the infant Queen Mary and I'rince Edward of England, an English army, in 1544, entered Scotland by the eastern marches, plundered and destroyed Kelso and Jedburgh, and ravaged and burned the villages and houses in their neighbourhood. This army having been dispersed, another, 12,000 strong, specially selected for their enterpnse, and led on by the Earl of Hertford, next year trod the same path as the former invaders, and inflicted fearful devastation on Merse and Teviot- (lale. They plundered anew the towns of Kelso and Jedburgh, wasted their abbeys, and also those of IVIeliose and Jedburgh, and burnt 100 towns and villages. While Kelso was suffering the infliction of their rage, 300 men, as was mentioned in our notice of the abbe_y, made bold but vain resistance witliia the precincts of that pile. The Scottish ai-iny shortly after came up, and took post at Max- well-heugh, the suburb of Kelso, intending to re- taliate; but they were spared the horrors of inflict- ing or enduring further bloodshed, by the reti-eat of the invaders. In 1553, a resolution was suggested by the Queen-Regent, adopted by parliament, and backed by the appointment of a tax of £20,000, leviable in equal parts from the spiritual and the temporal sfcite, to build a fort at Kelso for the defence of the Borders; but it appears to have been soon dropped, or not even incipiently to have been carried into effect. In 1557, the Queen-Regent having wan- tonly, at the instigation of the King of France, pro- voked a war with Elizabeth, collected a numerous army for aggression and defence on the Border. Under the Earl of Arran, the army, joined by an auxiliary force from France, marched to Kelso, and encamped at Maxwell-heugh ; but, having made some vain efforts to act efticiently on the offensive, was all withdrawn, except a detachment left in garrison at Kelso and Roxburgh to defend the Borders. Hostilities continuing sharp between the kingdoms, Lord James Stuart, the illegitimate son of James V., built a house of defence at Kelso, and threw up some fortifications around the town. In 1557, a great altercation took place at Kelso be- tween the Queen Dowager and some of her principal nobles, respecting the invasion of England, she urging that measure, and they opposing it. In 155S, the detachment of the army stationed at Kelso, marched out to chastise an incursion, in the course of which the town of Dunse was burnt, came up with the English at Swinton, and were defeated. In 1561, Lord James Stuart was appointed by Queen Mary her lieutenant and judge for the sup- pression of banditti on the Borders, and brought upwards of 20 of the most daring freebootei's to trial and execution; and, about the same time, he held a meeting at Kelso with Lord Grey of England, for pacificating the affairs of the Borders. In 1566, in the course of executing the magnanimous purpose of putting down by her personal presence the Border maraudings, from which she was wiled by her romantic and nearly fatal expedition to the Earl of Bothwell at Hermitage-castle, Queen Mary visited Kelso on her way from Jedburgh to Berwick, spent two nights in the town, and held a council for the settlement of some dispute. In 1569, the Earl of Moray spent five or six weeks in Kelso, in attempts to pacificate the Borders, and in the course of that peiiod had a meeting with Lord Hunsdon and Sir John Foster, on the jiart of England, and made con- cui-rently with them arrangements for the attain- ment of his object. In 1570 an English araiy entered Scotland in revenge of an incursion of the Lords of Fernihirst and Buccleueh into England, divided itself into two co-operating sections, scoured the whole of Teviotdale, levelled fifty castles and strengths, and upwards of 300 villages, and ren- dezvoused at Kelso preparatory to its retreat. The Earl of Bothwell, grandson to James Y., and com- mendator of Kelso, made the town his home during the concocting of his foul and numerous treasons; and during 10 years succeeding 1584, deeply em- broiled it in the marchings and military mancBu- vrings of the forces with which first his partisans, and next himself personally, attempted to damage the kingdom. Kelso, in 1639, made a prominent figure in one of the most interesting events in Scottish histoiy, — the repulse of the armed attempt of Charles I. to force Episcopacy upon Scotland by the army of the Covenanters under General Lesley. This army, amounting to 17,000 or 18,000 men, rendezvoused at Dunse, and marching thence, establislied their quarters at Kelso. The King, personally at the head of his army of prelacy, got intelligence at Birks, near Benvick, of the position of the Cove- nanters, and despatched the Earl of Holland, with 1 ,000 cavalry and 3,000 infantry, to try their mettle. General Lesley, however, easily repelled the Earl of H(dland from Kelso, made a rapid concentration of all his own forces, and next day, to the sui*prise of the royal camp, took up his station on Dunse-hiU, inter- posing his arms between the King and the capital, and exhibiting his strength and his menaces in full view of the royal army. The King, now fully con- vinced of the impracticability of his attempt on the public conscience of Scotland, held a consultation two days after with the leaders of the Covenanters, made them such concessions as eflected a recon- ciliation, and procuring the dispersion of their army, returned peacefvdly to England. — The Covenanteis of Scotland and the Parliamentarians of England having made common cause against Charles I., Kelso was made, in 1644, the depot of troops for re- inforcing Genei-al Lesley's army in England. Next year the detachment under the Marquis of Douglas and Lord Ogilvie, sent by Montrose to oppose the operations of Lesley in the Merse, marched to Kelso on their way to the battle-field at Selkirk, where they were cut down and broken by the Covenanters. Two years later, the town was the place of ren- dezvous to the whole Scottish army after their suc- cesses in England, and witnessed the disbandment of six regiments of cavalry after an oath having been exacted of continued fidelity to the covenant. In 1645, Kelso was visited and ravaged by the plague. In 1648, an hundred English officers anived at Kelso and Peebles, in the expectation — wdiich happily proved a vain one — of finding em- ployment by the bieaking out of another civil war. In 1684, the town was totally consumed by an accidental fire; and sixty years later it suffered in the same way to nearly the same extent. On the former occasion, a proclamation called upon the whole kingdom to make contributions to alleviate the sufferings of the unhoused inhabitants, and to aid the rebuilding of the town. However severe and awful the calamities were at the moment, they KELTIE. 176 KELTON. were the main, perhaps the sole, occasion of Kelso wearing that uniformly modern and neat aspect which so sin.ijuhirlv distinguishes it from most other Scottish towns of its class. In 1715, the whole of the rehcl forces of the I'letcnder, the Highlanders from the north, the Nortliumhrians from the south, and the men of Nithsdale and Galloway under Lord Kenmure, rendezvoused in Kelso, took full posses- sion of the town, formally proclaimed James VIII., and remained several days making idle demonstra- tions, till the approacli of the royal troojjs under General Carpenter incited them to march on to Preston. In 1718, a general commission of Over and Terminer sat at Kelso, as in Perth, Cupar, and Dundee, for the trial of persons concerned in the re- hellion; hut here they had only one case, and even it they found irrelevant. ISo attached were the Kelsonians to the principles of the IJevolution, that, though unable to make a siiow of resistance to the rebel occupation of their town, they, previous to that event, assembled in their church, unanimously subscribed a declaration of fidelity to the existing government, and oftered themselves in such num- bers, as military volunteers, that a sufficient quan- tity of arms could not be found for their equipment. In 1745, tlie left of the three columns of Charles Edward's army, on their march from Ediuburgli into Enghmd,— that column of nearly 4,000 men, which was headed by the Chevalier in person, spent two nights in Kelso, and, while here, suffered nu- merous desertions. In 1797, a flood, extraordinary both in bulk and duration, came down the Tweed and the Teviot, and swept away the predecessor of the present bridge. From iS'ovember, 1810, till June, 1814, Kelso was the abode of a body, never more than 230 in number, of French prisoners on parole, who, to a very noticeable degree, inoculated the place with their follies. Kelso counts, either as natives or as residents, verj'' few eminent men. One of its monks called James, who lived in tlie 15th century, was one of the most celebrated Scottish writers of liis veiy' in- celebrious age. Its prior Henry, who flourished about 1493, was the translator into Scottish verse of Palladius liutilius on Eural Affairs, and the author of some literary performances. The chief names which have graced the town in modern times are those of Dr. Andrew Wilson, author of the ti-eatise on Morbid Sympathy, Morton, author of the Mo- nastic Antiquities, Stoddart, the writer on angling, the Rev. James Ramsay, long a leader in the ecclesiastical judicatories, the Rev. John Pitcairn, famous for contributing to reform pulpit oratory, and among living authors, the Rev. Dr. M'Culloch, the Rev. Dr. Horatius Bonar, and the Rev. Mr. Jar vie. KELSO RAILWAY. See North British Rail- way. KELTIE, a village partly in the parish of Cleish, Kinross-shire, and partly in that of Beath, Fife- shire. It stands on Keltic Burn, and on the road from Edinburgh to Perth, 5 miles south by east of Kinross, and 10 north of North Queensferry. There is a collieiy in the vicinity. Population of the KiPi- ross-shire section, 164. Houses, 39. Population of the Fifeshire section, 257. Houses, 57. KELTIE BURN, a rivulet of Fifeshire and Kin- ross-shire. It rises in the north-west corner of tlie parish of Dunfermline, and runs 7 miles eastward, chiefly within Fifeshire, but partly on the boundary with Kinross-shire, to a diseinboguement into Loch-Orr. KELTIE WATER, a romantic stream in the parish of Callander, Perthshire. It rises on the west side of the mountain Stuic-a-chroin, and flows first 6 mile-j south-eastward through the easteri: division of the parish, then 2 miles southward along tlic boundary with Kilmadock; and falls into tlie Teith 2f miles below the village of Callander. In its progress it is swollen by several tributary torrents. Flowing for 5 miles among wild hills, it emerges through the romantic glen and down the singular waterfall of Bkacki.i.v, [which see,] and afterwards skirts the park of Cambusmere, and makes its con- fluence with the Teith in front of Cambusmere mansion. KELTNIE BURN, a rivulet of the Breadalbane district of Perthshire. It rises in the south-eastern part of the ))arish of Fortingal, and flows south- eastward to the boundary with Dull, and along that boundary, to a confluence with the Lyon, a little above the latter's confluence with the Tay. The scenery along the Keltnie is wild, rugged, and ro- mantic ; and at one place, in the vicinity of Coshie- ville inn, the stream makes a scries of beautiful falls, the highest of which issues from a dark nar- row opening, and haps sixty feet over perpendicular rocks into a deep gloomy dell. KELTON, a parish nearly in the centre of the southern half of Kirkcudbrightshire. It contains the. post-town of Castle-Douglas, the post-office village of Kelton-hill or Rhonehouse, and the village of Gelston. It is bounded by Crossmiehael, Buittle, Rerwick, Kirkcudbright, Tongueland, and Balma- ghie. Its length, south-westward, is 6J miles; its greatest breadth is 5f miles ; and its medium breadth is under 3 miles. The river Dee divides the parish of miles from Balmaghie and Tongueland. Doach- burn rises on the north side of Dungyle, a small hill near Gelston, on which there are remains of a Roman encampment, and traces the boundary with Buittle over a distance of 3| miles. Carlinwark or Castle-Douglas loch, f of a mile in length, lies neai the northern extremity; and formerly yielded up, at the expense of diminishing its own bulk, a very large quantity of shell marl, the aspersion of which over the face of various parishes formed an era in the history of Galloway agricultural improvements. North-westward from it, over a distance of li mile to the Dee. is a canal, traced most part of the way along the boundary with Crossmiehael. This was formed for the purpose of offering transit to the marl of the lake, but afterwards became the mere channel for the supeifluence of Carlinwark loch to the Dee. Toward the southern and south-eastern ex- ti-eniities of the parish, steep and rocky hills, chiefly clad in heath, exhibit an aspect of desolation, — the highest of them rising 1,100 feet above the level of the sea. Elsewhere the surface displays a singu- larly knobbed or kiioUy appearance, sending up tumours, or abounding in little round hills. But over this oddly rolling surface, as well on the rising grounds as in the hollows, the parish, though not luxuriant, is arable. The soil is generally thin ; in some places is a fine loam ; and in others, especially on the little hills, is a deep wateiy till. About 2,721 imperial acres of the total parochial area are under cultivation; about 1,327 are waste or pas- toral; and about 570 are under wood. There are about twenty landowners; and five of them are resident. The old valued rental was £3,528 Scots. Assessed property in 1860, £13,642. Real rental in 1855, £8,157. Estimated yearly value of raw pro- duce in 1844, £22,771. The modern mansions are Gelston-castle, Carlinwark-house, and Daldawn. There are three corn-mills within th.e parish. The famous piece of ordnance called Mons Meg, is be- lieved to have been made at Buchan's-croft, in the vicinity of Castle-Douglas. The parish is traversed by the' great road from Dumfries to Portpatrick. KELTON. 177 KELVIN. Population in 1831, 2,877; in 1861, 3,436. Houses, 584. This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Sti- pend, £2.52 17s. 4d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £187 14s. 7d. 'I'he parish church stands on the east side of Kelton-hill, was built in 1806, has undergone i-ecent repairs and increase of accommo- dation, and contains about 1 ,000 sittings. There is a Free church in Castle-Douglas, built in 1844; and the receipts connected with it in 1865 amounted to £831 4s. 4d. There is also a Reformed Presbyte- rian church in Castle-Douglas. There are three parochial schools at respectively Castie-Douglas, llhonehouse, and Gelston. The s ilary of the Castle- Douglas selioolmasteris £27 Is. 8d., with about £120 fees, and £22 10s. other emoluments; and that of each of the other two schoolmasters is £26 13s. 4d., with about £32 fees, and £10 lOs.otheremoluments. There are also three private schools. — The present parish comprehends the three old parishes of Kelton, Gel- ston, and Kirkcormack. Of the united parish, Kel- ton forms the north corner, Kirkcormack the south- west, and Gelston the south-east corner. The churches of Kelton and Kirkcormack belonged first to the monks of Icolmkill, and next to those of Holv- rood ; and, at the establishment of Episcopa.^y by Charles I., they were given to the bishop of Edin- burgh. See Gelstox. KELTON, a village and small port, on the mutual border of the parishes of Dumfries and Caerlaverock, Dumfries-shire. It stands on the left bank of the Nitli, on the road from Dumfiies to Glencaple, li mile noi-th of Glencaple, and 3i miles south of Dum- fries. As a port, it is strictly identified with Dum- fries, being visited only by vessels emploj-ed in the trade of that burgh, and unable to proceed further up the Nith. The New Quay between it and the town, Glencaple to the south, and Kelton in tlie centre, are simply a chain of ports to accommodate the difficult navigation of the river. Ship-building is to a small extent carried on at Kelton. KELTON-HILL, a post-office village in the par- ish of Kelton, 2J miles south of Castle-Douglas, Kirkcudbrightshire. Here is annually held on the first Tuesday after the 17th of June, old style, one of the largest horse-fairs in Scotland. Here also used to be held six other fairs. See Castle-Douglas. The village likewise bears the name of Rhonehouse. KELTY. See Keltie. KELVIN (The), a river of Stirlingshire, Dum- bartonshire, and Lanarkshire. It rises in the great strath of the Forth and Clyde canal, at a point about 3 miles east of the town of Kilsyth, and runs west- south-westward to a confluence with the Clyde op- posite the town of Govan. It is veiy slow and slug- gish over a number of miles from its head. It foi- incrly was choked there with aquatic vegetation, and often dispread itself far and wide in a manner be- twixt lake and morass. But it was straitened, deepened, and embanked ; and now it crawls along with the appearance of a large ditch. It is for sev- eral miles one of the tamest lines of water in the kingdom ; but afterwards it has green and wooded banks ; further on, it is winged with luxuriant haughs, and overlooked by pleasant braes or hang- ing plains ; and all along till near its entering its far-famed dell, it borrows much interest from Camp- sie fells, which flank the north side of its basin. The affluents which come down to it from these fells contribute the larger portion of its volume ; and at least two of them are better entitled than itself to rank as the parent stream. See G.vkvald and CAAirsiE. At Kirkintilloch, the Kelvin receives on one hand the stream of the Finglen coming down from the fells, and on the, other hand the Luggie creeping in from a region of moors and knolly flats. But it still continues languid, andean boast no higher ornament for several miles than the luxuriant Balmore hauglis. Below these it is joined on its right side Ijy the Al- lander, and passes into a total change of scenery. Its basin is henceforth a rolling surface of diluvium, a region of earthy swells and knolls, with no ovei'hanging fells and few extensive prospects, but with intricate and endless series of winding hollows, abrupt diversities, and charming close views. And here at Garscube, 4J miles by the road from Glas- gow, the Kelvin awakens into activity, and com- mences a romantic career. Its path thence to Par- tick, about ^ a mile above its influx into the Clvde, lies generalfy along a dell of similar character to that of the North Esk between Hawthoniden and Dalkeith-park, but with less brilliance and more diversity. Someparts contractintogorges, andothers expand into bits of vale ; some wall in the water- course between steeps or precipices, and others flank it with stripes of meadow or with shelving descents; some also are comparatively tame and soft, while others aie wild and harsh. But the dell, as a whole, is all feature, all character,— most of it clothed with trees as thickly as a fowl's wing is with feathers — some parts finely streaked with cascades or other natural markings, and many picturesquely studded with mansions, mills, bridges, and artificial decora- tions. The wings of the vale, too, or lands impin- ging on the top of the banks, are highly ornate, have generally a knolly surface, and often wind and un dulatewith a faceof beauty and a richness of garment which rival those of the vale itself. The tract al- together exults in many channs which the author of the well-known lyric on " Kelvin grove " seems not to have observed; and it as certainly knows nothing of the fairies, mountains, and lofty water- falls which form his main machinery ; so that his descriptive touches are more poetical than graphic, and have passed muster with the public onh'- amid the rolling music of his appeal to the passiont. Says he, — " I^pt us haste to Kelvin-prove, Tlirouj^h its mazes let us rove. Where tlie rose in all its pride Decks tlie hollow ding-le's side. Where the midnight fairies glide. We will wander by the mill, To the cove beside the rill. Where the glens rebound the call Of the lofty water-fall. Through the mountain's rocky hall." The lower rocks of the district belong to the coal formation, and possess all tlie interest of the mines of central Clydesdale. Some of the shales are rich iii vegetable fossils ; and some of the sandstones, of buff or cream colotir, possess celebrity among builders. The tipper strata, and those which constitute most of the knolls, are chiefly diluvial, and afibrd distinct evidence of having been deposited and contoured by currents from the north-west. Many boulders lie embedded in them, which must have been brought thither from distances of 25 or even 70 miles ; and occasional blocks exhibit scratches and grooves, which indicate the presence of heavy icebergs on the depositing currents. The district likewise con- tains a very fair proportion of simple minerals, and of wild plants and animals. The lower part of it, for abotit Ij mile from the Clyde, comprises beauti- ful suburban extensions of Glasgow, together with the Botanic garden and the new West-end park; and as a whole, with its wealth of scenery and itG warbling of birds, it forms as charming a "stroll for M KELVIN-HAUGH. 178 KEN. an intelligent population as could well exist in ilie vicinity of a preiit citv. KELVIX-GliOVE." See Kelvin (The), and Glasoow. KELVIN-HAUGII, a post-office stJition subor- dinate to Glaiigow. KEM (The). .Sec Duka Den. , KEMP.ACK, a parish, coiitiiinin.s the village of Blebocraigs, in the Strathedeii district of Fifeshire. Its post-town is Cupar, 8 nules west of its parish church. It is bounded by the parishes of Dairsie, Lcuchars, St. Andrews, Ceres, and Cupar. Its length east-north-eastward is about 3 miles, and its breadth rarely exceeds IJ mile. All its northern boundary is traced by the Eden. Its surface, at the west end, is level, with a gentle declination toward tlie Eden; but about the centre it becomes varied and beautifullv pictufesque. Here it is intersected by DfUA Dex": whicli see. East of this, the surface rises into a beautifully formed and now finely wooded liill, formerly calied Nydic hill, but now more generally Kembackhill. This hill runs from north to south', or at right angles to the range of hills which bound the How of Fife, and thus terminates this valley on the east. The entire area of the parish comprises about 2,2U0 imperial acres; of which about 1,7U0 are in cultivation or pasture, and about 320 are under wood. The soil exhibits every variety, clay, black loam, light sandy soil with a dry bottom, "and thin gravel; and is upon the whole verv fertile. The rocks are sandstone, ironstone, shale, and trap. Lead ore occurs on the lands ' f S. Rlebo, and was at one time attempted to be worked. There are five principal landowners; the most extensive of whom is Betlmne of Blebo. The real rental in 1841 was £3,889. Assessed property in 186G. £4.885 18s. Id. At Yoolfield is a spinning mill, built in 1839; at lUebo-mills are a spinning iiiill, a scutching mill, a meal mill, and a barley mill; and at Kemback-mills is a saw mill, and were lately two other mills. All these places are on the Kern burn, which traverses Dura Den. Tiie parish is inter- sected in the south by the road from Ceres to St. Andrews; and has ready access on the west and north to the Cupar and Dairsie stations of tlie Edin- burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. Population in 1831, 651; in 1861, 896, Houses, 173. This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife. Patron, the United College of St. Andrews. Stipend, £157 7s.; glebe, £24. Schoolmaster's salary, £40. with about £16 fees. The parish church was built in 1814, at the cost of about £700. There is a Free church preaching station in Dura Den; the receipts of which in 1855 amounted to £30 6s. There are two private schools. The ancient parish was a rectory belonging to the bishopric of St. Andrews, and was bestowed by . Bishop Kennedy on the College of St. Salvator at the founding of that institution. The name Kem- back was probably derived from the rivulet Kem. , KEMXAY, a parish, containing a post-ofiice station of its own name, in the Garioch district of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by the parishes of Inverury, Kintore, Skene, Cluny, Monymusk, and Chapel of Garioch. Its length southward is be- tween 4 and 5 miles, and its breadth is about 3 miles; The burn of Ton traces part of the western boundary, to the river Don; and that river itself traces tlie rest of the western boundary, and all the northern boundary. The surface of the parish, on the whole, is rather flat; and is intersected, for about 2 miles, by a furzy alluvial ridge, called tlie Kembs. On the banks of the Don there are beautiful fertile banghs ; but the soil is elsewhere a very stony light mould on sand. The low grounds, in general, are arable. There are two mineral springs, the Kemb well and the Spa well, at the foot of the Kembs. Kemnay- house is beautifully situatt d amongst plantations, and tnsteful pleasure-grounds, on the banks of the Don. There are three principal landowners. The Inverury and Kintore stations of the Great North of Scotland railway are within easy reach. Population in 1831, 610"; in 1861, 832. Houses, 149. Assessed property in I860, £2.735. This parish is in the presbytery of Garioch. and synod' of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Kintore. Stipend, £158 19s. 2d; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's salary now is £45, with a share in the Dick and Milne bequests, and £50 other emoluments, besides fees. The school-house and its appurtenances are remarkably spruce ; and the school attained, some years ago, a singularly high character. The parish church is an elegant structure, lately erected on tlie site of the former one. The ancient church was a dependency of the parsonage of Kiiikell. There is a pnrochial librarv. KEMPOCH-POINT. See Gourock. KEMPSTANE-HILL. See Fetteresso. KEX-, a prefix in many Celtic names of places; signifying, in some instances, ''white" or "clear," and then applied generally to a stream ; and signify- ing, in other instances, " a head " or " promontory," and then being only an orthographical variety of Keax: which sec. KEN (Locu), an expansion of the river Ken, im- mediately above its confluence with the Dee. in Kirkcudbrightshire. It is about 5 miles long, and from J to f of a mile broad. On its west side a range of hills comes down from the interior, termi- nates abruptly at its southern corner in a huge rock called Benin-hill, and over the central and northern part of the lake presses almost close upon its edge. Loch-Ken, approaclied from the south by a road leading up from Kirkcudln-ight along its left bank into the interior of the Glenkens, offers delightful scenery to the view. Some islets, wholly or parti- ally covered with wood, are sprinkled on its surlace. Its shores are occasionally fringed and tufted with plantation. At its head, a little westward of the river, appear Kenmure-castle, and the small burgh of New Galloway, — with an intervening grove of state!}' elms, beeches, and pines. KEN (The), a river of the district of Glenkens, Kirkcudbrightshire. It rises between Blacklarg hill and Longrig hill on the boundary with Ayr- shire, and, after a course of 1 J mile south-eastward, and of 2 miles south-westward through the nortliem extremity of Dairy, begins to be, over all its extent, the boundary-line between Cai'sphairn and Kells on the west, and Dairy, Balmaclellan, and Parton on the east, cutting the district of Glenkens, formed by- all these parishes except the last, into two not ycry unequal parts. Its length of course, while dividing the parishes, is 21 miles; and over this distance it describes the figure of the segment of a circle, run- ning, in its upper part, toward the south-west, and, in its lower part, toward the south-east. At tlie southern extremity of the parish of Kells, it forms a confluence with the Dee. The streams which flow into it, though numerous, are small. But one of them, Deugh or Carsphairn water, which joins it at the point of its first touching the parish of Kells, is of longer course than itself, rising in three head- waters in Ayrshire, and draining in two main basins nearly the whole of the extensive parish of C'ais- phairn. The Ken, over most of its length, is singu- larly rich in the landscape-features, both of its im- mediate banks, and of its mountain-basin. See articles Carsphaiks, Gi.enkexs, Kells, and Kkv (Locii). KENLOWIE. 179 KENMOEE. KENDAR (Loch). See Kinder (Loch). KEXDLUM. See Eerrick. KENDROCHAD. See Bridgend. KENEDAR. See Kixg-Edward. KENLOCH. See Kinloch. KENLOWIE, or Kesly (The), a rivulet of File- shire. It rises in two head-streams in the south- west of the parish of Cameron, and runs eastward I througii tlie parish of Dunino, and along the bound- ary between the parishes of St. Andrews and KincfS- barns, to the southern part of St. Andrew's bav- Its length of course is about 8 miles. It abounds with excellent trout. It is sometimes called Pitmilly burn. KENMORE, a parish, containing the post-office village of Kenmore, and the villages or hamlets of Acharn, Bridgend, Blairmore, and Sronfernan, in the district of Breadalbane, Perthshire. It com- prises a main body and two detached sections. The main body, in a general view, may be regarded as forming the frame- work of the beautiful mirror of Loch-Tay, and as bounded on the north by Fortin- gall, on the east by Dull, and by detached parts of various parishes, on the south by Comrie, and on the west by Killin. But it embosoms a detached part of Weem, 3 miles by 1 J, in the north; it is in- tersected by parts of Weem and Killin, with the effect of having very nearly cut off a district of 6J miles by 3 in the west; and it is extruded from con- nexion with the upper part of LochTay, by the in- tervention of parts of other parishes, over a distance of 6 miles on the south. One of its detached sec- tions, 8^ miles by 6, lies between Fortingall and Killin, on the confines of Argyleshire; and the otlier, Sj miles by 2^, lies If mile eastward of tlie nearest point of the main body. The greatest length of the whole parish, exclusive of intei-vemng terri- tories, is about 20 miles; its greatest length, mea- sured across these territories so as to include them, is 30 miles; its greatest breadth is 7 miles; and its superficial area is about 62 square miles. The main body of the parish has been fashioned by the upheiiving of mountains on its sides, and by tlie passage of a river through its centre, expanding over most of the way into lake. The features of its scenery are well known to fame, and attract many tasteful visitors during the months of warmth and verdure. Bat nearly all are either identified or grouped with Loch-Tay, the river Tay, and the noble park of Taymodth-Castle, and properly occur to b^ noticed under these heads, — which see. The Lochy rises in several head-streams in the western detached portion of the parish, and afterwards in- tersects a small part of the main body, before uniting witli the more impetuous Dochart in the haugbs of Killin, at the head of Loch-Tay. That lake, stretch- ing from south-west to north-east, runs through tlie centre of the main body; but, at the lower end, is subtended by three or four times more breadtli of surface on its south-east than on its north-west side. Tay river, emerging from Loch-Tay, a few yards above the village of Kenmore, has a course of 2 miles within the parisli, and at the point of leaving it, is joined by the Lyon, after the latter having run 1^ mile along tlie north-east boundary. Nu- merous streamlets come down on Iwth sides of the intersecting stripe of water — whether lake or river - — but are all of brief course, and in no instance come from beyond the boundary. The district is thus, with some exceptions, an elongated basin, sending up, either at or within its lateral boundaries. a water-shedding line of heights, and draining otf the produce of its own springs by one central and continuous channel. At the upper end of Loch- Tay, in the centre of the glen, is some rich meadow- land. At the lower end of the lake, from the nar- row efflux of Tay river, the surface gradually ex- pands into a beautiful plain, about a mile wide, occupied by the park of Taymouth-castle. At the points where the larger lateral streamlets enter Loch-Tay, are deltas or little plains, rich in their soil, and lovely in their aspect, but inconsiderable in extent. With these exceptions, the whole sur- face rises in a not very gentle ascent from both sides ()f the long belt of water. In most parts, it is all, for nearly a mile, eitlier arable land, green pasture, or woodland; but behind this verdautzone, it generally ascends in bleakness and heath to the boundary, attaining in one place, at the summit of Benlawers, an altitude of 3,944 or 4,015 feet above the level of the sea. The western detached section, besides being cut with the head-streams of the Lochy, is bounded for 5 J miles by Loch-Lyon and the main stream which that lake receives and disgorges, and is traversed on its north-west side by three rills tributary to the Lyon ; and it is all a m.ountainous district^ cloven in very various directions by ravines and glens. The eastern detached section forms the basin of the chief and lower part of the Quaich, before its en- trance into Loch-Fiaocliy ; and, consisting of the wider portion of Glenquaich, with its screen of flanking heights, it considerably resembles, in tlie configuration of its surface, the main body of the parish ; but for upwards of a mile at its lower ex- tremity, it has on the banks of the Quaich, a dull flat face of morass, which seems to ofter defiance to the agriculturist's arts of improvemenL The total surface of the parish — main body and detached parts — is classified by the writer of the New Statis- tical Account, into 5,400 acres in tillage, 8,600 in pasture, 21,000 in moor and mountain, and 5,000 under wood. Excepting the property of Shian in Glenquaich, the whole parish belongs to the Marquis of Breadalbane. The real rental in 1838 was £9,360. Assessed property in 1866, £11,064 1 Is. 8d. Yearly value of agricultural produce, inclusive of live stock, as estimated in 1838, £34,073. The principal rocks are mica, clay, and chlorite slates; and some of them make excellent building-stones, and are worked as such. Primitive limestone and white quartz rock also occur, and are worked. Appear- ances of lead, iron, and other ores exist among the mountains. The only antiquity worth notice is the ruins of .a priory, founded in 1122 by Alexander I., and situ- ated on a picturesque islet at the north-east end of Locli-Tay, a few yards above the bridge. " The ruins on the isle," says Sir Walter Scott, "now almost shapeless, being overgrown with wood, rose at one time into the towers and pinnacles of a priory, where slumbered the remains of Sibilla, daughter of Henry I. of England, and consort of Alexander I. of Scotland. It was founded by Alex- ander, and tlie care of it committed to a small body of monks." But these monks appear to have been expelled, or to have found occasion to retire; for the last residents of the place, according to Sir Walter, were three nuns, distinguished by a veiy singular species of recluse liabits. Shutting theni'selves professionally out fiom society, they periodically rushed into its embrace; and then they "seemed determined to enjoy it in its most complicated and noisy state; for tliey came out only once a-yenr. and that to a market at Kenmore. Hence that fair is still called, Feill nam ban naomJia, ' the Market of the Holy women.' There are no precise data by which to determine the time of the e.xistencc of these nuns. It must have been subsequent to the year 1565, for that was the year when a market wug KENMORE. 180 KENMURE CASTLE. for the first time held at Kcninorc/' In .after times this island wore anotlier face. When tlie bravery of Montrose carried every thinp: bi'fore hini in de- fence of the roval c;mse, wliicli was nearly in its wane in England, a luiinenms body of Campbells, against wlio'ni the rigour of Montrose was chiefly dfrected, took possession of this island, where they fortified' themselves among the ruins. Montrose took, and garrisoned it; and it continued in the hands of the loyalists till Ifiol, when Monk retook it. — Ar elegant monumental structure, called the Cross, on the left bank of the Tay, midway between Tavmoutli-castle and Loch-Tay, is constructed of a beautiful kind of talcose clilori"te slate, and exhibits exquisitely fine chisellings. — A few coins of Edward I. of England and Alexander III. of Scotland have been found in the parish, in situations wliere they could scarcely have been expected. Topulation in 1831, 3,126; "in 1861, 1,984. Houses, 418. This parish is in the presbytery of Weem, and synod of Terth and Stirling. "Patron, the Marquis of Breadalbane. Stipend, £253 14s. '.Id.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with about £20 fees, and at least £13 10s. otlier emoluments. The parish cliureli is a handsome, substantial, cruciform structure, with a tower at the east end; and it was built in 1760, and contains about 700 sittings. There is a Free church of Kenmore with an at- tendance of 400; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £99 10s. 7d. There are Free churches also at Ardeonaig nnd Lawers, the one on the north side of Loch Tay, the other on the soutii side of the lake, the receipts of Avhicli in 1865 were respectively £82 lis. 3d., and £76 7s. 8d. There is a Baptist ch:ip'd at Lawers, with 150 sit- tings. There are witl\in the parish five non- parochial schools, upheld by public boilies or by endowment, and one or two private or adventure schools. Tlie chief historical occurrences connected with the parish are some provincial events, whicli liave been noticed in the article Breabai.baxe, and the visit of Queen Victoria in 1842, which will be noticed in the article Taymoutii-Castle. The Village op Kenmore stands on a peninsula projecting into the north-eastern extremity of Loch- Tay, on the south side of tiie river, at the point of its efflux, 16 miles east-north-east of Killin, and 23 miles west-north-west of Dunkeld. The village, with its neat white cottages, its commodious inn, its parish-church, its handsome bridge of 5 arches across the river Tay, and its close proximity to the Taymouth pleasure-grounds, is well-known to tourists as one of the most beautiful in Scotland. Fairs are held at it on the first Tuesday of March, old style, on the 28th of June, on the 26th of July, on the 17tli of September, on tlie Friday in Novem- ber before Martinmas, and on the 22d of December. In the neighbourhood of the. village are a saw- mill and a small woollen manufactory. Tlie poet Burns wrote over tlie parlour mantel-piece of the inn at Kenmore what Lockhart pronounces to be among the best of his English heroics: — " Poetic ardours in — y bosom swell, Iione waudenng by Uic hermil's mossy cell, Tlie sweeping theatre of hangrins woods, The incessant ro.ir of heiidlong-lunibliiig floods. Here Poesy miglit wake tier heaven-tau;,'lit lyre, And look tlirou^'li nature with creative tire; Here to the win-^s of fate luilf reconciled. Misfortune's lightened steps might wander wild; And disappointment in these lonely bounds. Find balm to sooth her bitter rankling wounds. Here heart-struck grief might heavenward stretch her scan, And injured worth forget and pardon man." KENMORE, Aroylesiiire. See Ixverary. KENMUKE (Maii^s of.) See Galloway (New). KENMURE CASTLE, the quondam residence of the Viscounts Kenniure, about ^ a mile soutli of the burgli of New Galloway, in the parish of Kells, Kirkeutlbrightshire. It stands on an insulated cir- cular mount, whicli, previous to observing the rocky texture of one "f its sides, an observer would sup- pose to be artificial; and it appears to liave been anciently surrounded by a fosse, supplied with water from the Ken. Tlie castle is approached by a beau- tiful avenue, has around it a fine plantation, and forms a conspicuous feature in one of the most picturesque landscapes in the south of Scotland. See articles Ken- and Kells. The edifice is an as- semblage of several buildings of diflierent ages; the older parts exliibiting the turi'eted character which distinguished the 15Ui century, and all of it having a castellated form and imposing aspect. When or by whom the original portion of the present pile, or rather the whole of a previous one which it must have supplanted, was built, is a matter not known. In early times, and even at a comparatively modern date, it suffered much from the ravages of war, hav- ing been burnt both in the reign of Mary and during the administration of Cromwell. Originally, it is said to have been a seat or stronghold of the Lords of Galloway. John Baliol, who succeeded to a great part of the estates of those feudal princes, is reported to have often made it his residence; and omitting to reserve it when he resigned his Scottish possessions to tlie English king, he had it restored to him by a special deed. Kenninre, after the triumph of "the dynasty of Bruce, p.nssed into the possession of the Douglases; upon their forfeiture, it was granted by the Crown to the Maxwells of Caerlaverock; and in the end of the 14th century, or the beginning of the 16tli, it was purchased, along with the lands of Lochinvar, by a younger brother of Sir Alexander de Gord(m of Berwickshire, the ancestor of the Dukes of Gordon, The Gordons of Lochinvar or of Kenniure claim strictly the same stock as the Gordons of the north, and were originally from Normandy ; and after sitting down at Kenmure, they gradually acquired, by grant, purchase, or marriage, the greater part ol the lands in Kirkcudbrightshire. They were dis- tinguished by tlie confidence of their sovereigns, and by extreme hereditary attachment to theii persons and fortunes. Sir John Gordon of Loch invar was an unswerving follower of Mary, and ran serious hazards in her cause. His son and suc- cessor was one of the most distinguished Scotsmen in the court of James VI. In May, 1633, .Sir John Gordon, the contemporary of Charles I., was raised by that monarch to the dignity of the peerage, bv the title of Viscount Kenmvire. Tliis nobleman singularly combined attachment to the house of Stuart with unflinching fidelity in the profession of the Presbyterian religion; and, much as he is known for the honours conferred upon him liy Charles, lie is greatly better known for his intimacy with John Welsh and Samuel Rutherford, for the important services he did the latter, and for the tone of deep religiousness which flung its melody over the closing scenes of his life. His lady, too^the third daughter of Archibald, 7th Earl of Argyle, and the sister of Lord Lorn^s intimately known to a numerous class in Scotland as the correspondent of the pious Kuthei-ford. In 1715, William, the 6th Viscount, took an active part in the Rebellion, and next year was beheaded on Towerhill in London, entailing upon his family the forfeiture of their title. His descendants, inheriting his estates — which by pru- dent management were purchased from the Crown — endeavoured, by serving in the army, to make amends for their ancestor's error, and distinguished KENNET. 181 KENNOWAY. themselves by patriotic concern for the interests of their tenants, and for the general welfare ; and, in 1824. they were, in the person of the forfeited Vis- count's grandson, restored, by act of parliament, to their ancient honours. He who thus became the 7th Viscount, Avas bom in 1750, and continued to enjoy his title and estates till his 91st year. ^ He was succeeded by his nephew, Adam Gordon, Esq., a brave naval officer, who displayed great gallantry in many severe actions on the American lakes dur- ing the war; and at the death of tliis 8th Viscount in 1847, the peerage became extinct. KENMURE-HILL. See Castle-Semple Loch. KENNET, a village and an estate, in the parish of Clackmannan. The village stands about a mile east of the town of Clackmannan, and about tlie same distance north of the frith of Forth. It is a niiatly edificed place, inhabited principally by col- liers; and has an exceadingly handsome school- house, built and endowed by Mr. Bruce, the pro- prietor of the estate. Population, 288. Houses, 60. Two large collieries are contiguous. The mansion- house of Kennet, though a mile distant from the Forth, perfectly overlooks it, and commands a charming view. It is externally handsome, and in- ternally very elegant. The famous Thomas Boston of Etterick, the autlior of several well-known theo- logical works, acted for some time as tutor here when a young man. See Clackmannan. KENNETHMONT. a parish on the western bor- der of the district of Garioch in Aberdeenshire. It has a post-office station of its own name; and it is situated about seven miles south-south-east of the town of Huntly. It is bounded by Gartly, Insch. Leslie, Clatt, and Rhynie. Its length eastward is 6 miles; and its breadth is 3 miles. The river Bogie traces the western boundary; and the Malshach hill, on which is a medicinal spring of some local repute, stands on the nmtual border with Gartly. The goueral surface of the parish is much diversified with high ground and low ground; but witli the exception of two or three eminences, none of it can be properly called hilly. During the last fifty years, several hundred acres of marsh have been converted into arable land, many acres of moor have been sub- jected to the plough, and agricultural improvement, in the general treatment of all the farms, has been very largely effected. Sir Andrew Leith Hay of Rannes owns upwaixls of one half of the valued rent; and is the only resident heritor. The other principal proprietors are the Duke of Richmond, Gordon of Wardhouse, and Grant of Drumminer. The chief antiquities are remains of two Druidical temples. Several annual fairs, chiefly for cattle, have long been held in the parish, and monthly markets, of much promise, have lately been established. Tiie north-eastern part of the parish has a station of its own name on the Great North of Scotland railway; and the south-eastern part is within easy distance of the Insch station. Population in 1831, 1,131; in 1861, 1,187. Houses, 242. Assessed property in 1860, £4,669. This parish is in the presbytery of Alford, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Hay of Rannes and Leith-Hall. Stipend, £195 2s. Id.; glebe, £15. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with a share of the Dick bequest, and about £35 fees and other emo- luments. The parisli church was built in 1812, and contains about 600 sittings. There is a Free church: attendance, 320; sum raised in 1865, £150 14s. lOd. There are two non-parochial schools, and a small public library. The name Kenneth- mont is said to have been derived from the circum- stance that one of the Kings Kenneth, according to tradition, was buried in what became the church- yard, and which is a small mount. An ancient parish, called Christ's Kirk, was at some remote period, of which history has taken no note, annexed to Kennethmont. Here, on the green suri-ounding the site of the church of that ancient parish, a fair was at one time held in the night, and by the people hence called Sleepy-market. It is contended, from these curious circumstances, that this was the scene of ' Christ's-kirk on the Green,' ascribed to James I. of Scotland. Among distinguished persons con- nected with Kennethmont, as natives or otherwise, must be named General Hay of Rannes, Lieutenant- General Sir James Leith, Rear- Admiral Sir James A. Gordon, and the still surviving Sir Andrew Leith Hay. KENNETH'S ISLE. See Inchkenneth. KENNETPANS, a small village, with a harbour, in the parish of Clackmannan, 1^ mile south of the village of Kenuet, and If west of the town of Kin- cardine. It is a creek of the port of Alloa: which see. A railway, about a mile in length, connects it with the distillery of Kilbagie. Adjacent to it is the mansion of Kennetpans, commanding a fine view of the Forth. KENNETSIDE. See Eccles. KENNIL-HOUSE. See Earn (Loch). KENNOT WATER. See Douglas (The). KENNOWAY, a parish, containing the post- office village of Kennoway, the village of Baneton, and part of the village of Star in the centre of the south of Fifeshire. It is bounded by Kettle, Scoonie, Wemyss, and Markinch. It forms an irregular pai-allelogram, 3^ miles in length from east to west, and rather more than 2 miles in breadth from north to south; ascending gradually from the south to- wards the north. The prospect from almost every part of it is extensive and beautiful; comprising a distinct view of the island of May, the Bass rock, Inchkeith, and the coast south of the Forth, from Dunbar to the west of Edinburgh, including tlie Lammermoor hills. From the northern part, the view likewise embraces almost all Fifeshire, and great part of the counties of Angus, Perth, and Stirling, and of the Grampian mountains. The streams which water the parish are all mere burns, either tributary to the Leven, or pursuing an inde- pendent course through Scoonie to the Forth; and one of them which passes close to the village of Kennoway flows there in a sweetly picturesque ravine. About 30 acres in the parish are waste or pnstoral; about 250 are under wood; and all the rest of the surf;\ce is in tillage. There are twelve principal landowners. The mansions are Auchter- mairnie, Kingsdale, and Newtownhall. The total yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1838 at £14,400. Assessed property in I860, £8,519 18s. 5d. There are in the parish two grinding mills for oats and barley, a saw-mill, and a small tow-spin- ning mill. A good many of the inhabitants are weavers. Coal is wrought in the eastern district. The southern border is near the Cameron-Bridge station of the Leven railway; and all the rest of the parish has good roads. In the southern district is a round hill called the ]\Iaiden-castle, which seems to have been the site in ancient times of a British fort. Tradition points it out as having been a castle be- longing to Macduff, Earl of Fife; but this does not appear to be probable, nor is there the slightest evidence of the fact. In the village of Kennoway is an old house in which it is said Archbishop Sharp passed the night previous to his being murdered. The village of Kennoway stands in the southern district of the parish, on the road from Dysart to Ceres, and on that from Largo to Leslie, 2^ miles west-north-west of Leven. Two fairs were formerly KENTAILEN BAY. 182 KET. held in it; but they have fallen into disuse. The vnllage is lighted with gas; and, were it situated in a sequestered region, is both large and bustling enough to rank as a town. Here are the parish cliuvch, and the other places of worship. Popula- tion of tlie village, 931). Houses, 234. Popula- tion of the parish in 1831, 1,721; in 1861,2,012. Houses, 4.^)6. This parisli is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend. £i!42 l'7s.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated tcinds, £9 13s. Sclioofinaster's salary, £60, with about £ab lees. The parisli cliurcli is in the old Norman style, was ereeted in 1850, after a design by T. Haniiilon of Edinburgli, and contains 650 sittings. There is a Free cliuicli, also a new building; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £229 17s. 3d. There is an United Presbyterian church, with an attendance of about 330. There are several benefit and religious societies. The name Kennoway sig- nifies '' tiie head of the den," and alludes to the situation of the village along the top of a ridge at the head of a ravine of the Idnd provincially called a den. KENNOX WATEK. See Douglas (The). KKNKIVE. See Kilmuir E.\stei;. KENTAILEN BAY, a small bay on the nortli coast of Appin, about 2i miles from the mouth of Loch Leven, Argyleshire. It is well sheltered by Iiigh wood-clad lands, and affords the safest retreat to small vessels. KENTUKE BAY, a small bay on the east side of the island of Islay, about 4 miles from the south end of tlie Sound of Islay. KEOLDALE BAY, a bay, or small sea-loch, with rugged precipitous screens, midway between Loch EriboU and the bay of Durness, on the north coast of the parish of Durness, Sutherlandshire. KEPP, a hamlet in the Perthshire section of the parish of Kippen. Population, 43. Houses, 11. KEPPELMOUNT. See Glexmuick. KEPPIXCi BUIIN, a streamlet running west- ward into the frith of Clyde, north of the village of Fairlev, in the parish of Largs, Ayrshire. KEPPOCH. See Cardross. KEPTY HILL. See Vigeaxs (St.). KERBET BUIIN. See Glammis. KEKERA. See Kerrera. KERILAW. See Stevexston. KERLOAK, a mountain spur, deflecting fi-om tlie general Grampian range in the parish of Strachan, and trending eastward to the coast in the parish of Banchoiy-Devenick, Kincardineshire. Its highest point has an altitude of 1,890. feet above sea-level. KERNIGERG, two islets, united at low water, lying between Coll and Tiree, in tiie Argyleshire ilebrides. KERRERA, an island in the parish of Kilbride, district of Lorn, Argyleshire. It extends from north-east to south-west, with a length of 3i miles and a breadth of nearl^y 2 miles, parallel to the mainland, at an average distance from it of less tlian 1 mile, and contributes to form the excellent and romantic harbour of Oban. Its west side is about 4 miles distant fro;n Mull, and communicates with it by a ferry. Its surface is very hilly, and many of the rocks have a volcanic ajopearanee. Kerrera possesses t^vo good harbours, called the Ardintraive and Horse-shoe bays. " Keirera," says an in- telligent tourist, " excepting on its shores, has no features of any kind to attract attention, unless it be the inequality and confusion of the surface, tvliich is extreme. Not only is there nothing like level ground, but the hilly parts are so steep and frequent, the valleys so deep, and the whole so in- termixed, that the toil of walking over it is in- credible. Its want of beauty is, however, much recompensed by the noble prospects which it affords of the bay of Oban, and of that magnificent range of mountains which encloses the Linnhe-loch, with all the islands that are scattered about its varie- gated sea. The southern shore of the island ailords one very wild and picturesque scene, of which Ciylen-castle proves the chief object. On the mar- gin of a high cliff impending over the sea, is ])erched this tall grey tower; the whole bay, rude witli rocks and cliffs, presenting no traces of land or of verdure, — appearing as if it had, for uncounted ages, braved the fury of the waves that break in from over the whole breadth of the inlet and far out to the sea. It was in Kenvra that Alexander II. died, when preparing to invade the Western islands, then under tiie supreme dominion of Norway and of llaeo.-' Population in 1841, 187; in 18(31, 105. Houses, 19. KERROCHTREE. See Minxigaff. KERRYCROY, a small neat village, at the bay of Scoulag, in the parisli of Kingfirth, 2A miles south-south- east of Rothesay, in the island of Bute. Population, 97. Houses, 18. KERSE-HOUSE. See Fai.kirk and Graxge- MOUTH. KERSE-LOCH. See Daleymple. KERSHOPE (The), a rivulet of the mutual border of Scotland and England. It rises on the east side of Whiteknowe, within a few yards of one of the chief head-waters of the English Tyne, within the limits of Liddesdale; and, after flowing half-a-mile eastward, it forms over its whole remaining course of 8 miles, during which it generally runs south- westward, the boundary-line between Liddesdale o.a- its right, and Northumberland and Cumberland on its left. It falls into the Liddel 2| miles below the village of New Castleton, and the same distance above the point where the stream leaves Roxburgh- shire. KERSHOPE-HILL. a pastoral hill in the parish of Yarrow, about 9 miles west-south-west of Sel- kirk. On the top of it stood a monumental stone called Tait's cross. Chalmers informs us, from a manuscript description of the shire of Selkirk by John Hodge, in 1722, "that there was then to be seen, at Tait's cross, boughted and milked, upwards of 12,000 ewes, in the month of June, about eight o'clock at night, at one view." Bourjldcd is a verb, from the substantive hought or hitf/ht, which in the speech of shepherds means 'a fold for ewes,' while thev are milked. Everv one knows the old "Will ye "TO to llie ewe l)ii?lits, MMrion, And wear in the slieep wV me?" KERSLAND. See Dalry. Ayrshire. KERWIC BAY, a small bay near Cape Wrath, in the parish of Durness, Sutherlandshire. Here are vast stacks, resembling Gothic pillars, and forming a most romantic scene. KESSOCK FERRY, a ferry between Invemes.s- shire and Ross-shire, across tlie strait between the Moray frith and the Beauly frith, immediately north of the mouth of the river Ness, forming the main thoroughfare from the town of Inverness to the Black Isle, Dingwall, and the west of Ross- shire. The strait is about f of a mile broad; and tlie ferry is one of the safest and most facile in the nortli of Scotland. The view from the middle of it, particularly about the time of high water, is ex- ceedingly fine. KET (The), a streamlet of 5J miles length of KETTINS. 183 KETTLE. course, in Wigtonshire. It descvibes tlie figure of a semicircle, having a point a little north of Bur- row-head for its centre. Rising near the sea in the parish of Glasserton. it flows through the burgh of U'hithoni; and, driving a corn-mill near its mouth, enters the sea at the little bav called Port-Yarrock. KETLANU-GLEN. See Gi.exketland. KETLOCHY (The). See Duxkeld. KET'J'INS, a parish, comprising a main body on the south-west border of Forfarshire, and a detached district, 6 miles south-west of the nearest part of the main body, in Perthshire. It contains the villages of Kettins, Peatie, Campmuir, Ford of Pitcur, and Le}' of Haliburton. Its post-town is C'npar-Angus. Tlie main body measures 4 miles from ease to west, and 3 miles fiom north to south; and is bounded on the north-east by Kewtyle, on the east by Lundie, on a small part of the north-west by the Fori'arshire portion of Cupar Angus, and on ail other sides by Perthshire. The detached dis- trict measures 1 mile in length and f of a mile in breadth; and is surrounded by CoUace, Kinnaird, Kilspindie, and St. Martins. The main body com- mences at the water-shedding line of the Sidlaw liills, descends all the slope of these hills, and glides gently down into the jilain of Strathmore. Its greater or western part is nearly level, well culti- vated, and thoroughly enclosed. The lesser or up- land part is partly heathy, partly covered with plantation, and partly disposed in pasturage. The soil throughout the low-grounds is in general fer- tile; but in the uplands it is thin and light. The total ext-nt of arable land in the parish is 6,182 im- perial acres; of pasture land, 180 acres; of planta- tions. 1,579 acres; and of space miscellaneously occupied by roads and otherwise, 297 acres. Tiie real rental, according to the new valuation in 1866, is £11,226. The most extensive landowners are ].ord J. F. G. Hallyburton, Lord Wharncliffe, and Murray of Lintrose. Two rivulets — one of 6 miles length of course, which comes in from Perthshire and flows partly on the boundary and partly in the interior, and one of 4 miles length of course, which i.-^sues from a lochlet in the south-east extremity of the parish, and cuts it north-westward into two nearly equal parts^-unite a few hundred yards above Cupar-Angus, or the point of their passing into Perthshire, and. in their progress, drive a con- siderable number of mills. A proportion of the population are employed in the weaving of linen faljrics. subordinately to the manufacturers of Dun- dee. The village of Kettins stands alwut a mile south-east of Cupar- Angus, on one of the rivulets, embosomed in a magnificent wood, and consists of neatly kept cottasres and gardens, with a central village green. Half-a-mile east of it stands the modern mansion of Haliburton-house, situated in a plain, surrounded with stately plantations, and formerly the ordinary residence of the family whose name it bears; a family well known in connection with the distinguished figure which they made in the scenes of the Scottish Reformation, Nearly 2 miles south-east of the village are the rnins of the castle of Pitcur, whence the chief branch of the family derived their title. A mile south-west of the village, environed by fine plantations, is Lintrose- house, formerly called Todderance, and once the seat of a lateral branch of the Haliburton family, one of whose offshoots had a seat in the college- of-ju8tice. under the title of Lord Todderance. The other mansions are Newhall and Baldowrie, in the main bodv of the parish, and Bandirran in the de- tached district. At Campmuir, close on the boun- dary with Cupar-Angus, are vestiges of a camp oupposed to have been Roman. On the summit of a hill at the southern extremity of the parish stood the castle of Dores, tiaditionally reported to have been the residence of Macbeth. At Baldowrie, near the northern extremity, is an erect Danish monument, six feet high. On the estate of Lin- trose, about 15 years ago, there was discovered a cave about 50 feet long, with built sides, paved floor, and two fire-places, supposed by some to have been a winter-retreat of the ancient Cale- donians, and by others a hiding -plnce of the persecuted Covenanters. The parish is traversed by the I'oad from Cupar-Angus to Dundee, and en- joys ready access to the Scottish Midland and the Newtyle railwavs. Population in 1831, 1,193; in 1861, "962. Houses, 219, This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £235 13s. 5d.; glebe, £10 Is. 4d. School- master's salary, £50, with £32 lees, and about £11 lis. other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1768, and has an attendance of about 320. The ancient church had six subordinate or depen- dent chapels, situated respectively at Peatie, South Coston, Pitcur, Muiryfaulds, Denhead, and Kettins, and most of them surrounded with cemeteries; and it belonged to the ministry of the Red Friars at Peebles. KETTLE, a parish, containing the post-office village of Kettle, and the villages of Bnlmalcolm, Bankton-park. Coalton, Holekettle, Muirhead, and Myreside. in the centre of Fifeshire. It is bounded by Collessie, Cults, Ceres, Scoonie, Kennoway, Mark- inch, and Fnlkland. Its length, eastward, is about 8| miles, and its breadth is nearly 3 miles at the middle, but contracts exceedingly toward the ends. The river Eden traces the western half of the northern boun- dary, but is rapidly receded from by the eastern half of that boundary. The parochial surface, in the parts not adjacent to that river, ascends and goes over the hills which flank the south side of Strath- eden. The arable land, both in the flat tract upon the Eden, and in the skirts and ascents of the hills, is very various in soil ; but even the highest grounds in the parish are clothed Avith verdure, and afford excellent summer pasture for all sorts of cattle. The rocks are chiefly of the coal formation. Sand- stone, limestone, coals, and a fine kind of whin- stone are worked; and some iionstone is found. There are sixteen principal landowners; but only six of them are resident. The yearly value of raw produce, inclusive of woods and mines, was esti- mated in 18.36 at £20.676. Assessed property in 1860, £12,375 3s. Id. A considerable number of the parishioners, perhaps about 400, are linen weavers. On the lands of Clatto, at the south-eastern ex- tremity of the parish, there are remains of an old tower which is said to have anciently belonged to a family of the name of Seaton, of whom tradition says "that they were very notorious robbers and murderers. The old road from Cupar to Kinghorn passed through Clatto-den; and in the face of the hill, which forms its boundary, there is alleged to be a cave, which communicated with the tower of Clatto and had another opening to the road, from which the bandits rushed out upon the unsuspecting passengers, and dragging them into the cave, robbed and murdered them. The other principal anti- quities are eight barrows and two eminences which are supposed to be remains of circumvallations. The parish is traversed by the road fiom Kirkcaldy to Newburgh, by the road from Leven to Auchter- muchty, and by the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway; and it has a station on that railway, of the name of Kingskettle, 6 miles from Cupar, 12 from Kirkcaldy, 18 from Tayport, and 19 from Perth. KEVOCH BURN. 184 KILBARCHAN. The village of Kettle stands adjacent to the railway station, on tlie low {rrouiid of Stratlicden; and us skirts are reached by tlie freslicts of the river. Two of tlie other villages of the parish may he regarded as mere appendages to this; and two nioi-e are dis- tant from it respectively A a mile and 1 mile. Population of the village of Kettle, 480. Houses, 12S. Population of the parisli in 1831, 2,071; in 1861, 2,474. Houses, 551. This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and svnod of Fife. Patron, tlie Crown. Stipend, £2(38 ].')S. ; glebe, £8. Sclioolmasler's salary now is £05, with about £G5 fees and other emoluments. The parish church is a Gotliic structure, wiih elegant tower and pinn.acles, built in 1834. and contain- ing nearly 1,200 sittings. There is a Free cliurch for Kettle and Cults, with an attendance of 17U; and the sum raised in connexion v.-ith it in 1865 was £102 Is. 7d. There is an United Pres- byterian church in the village of Kettle, a neat edifice built in 1853, and having an attendance of about 450. Tlie parochial sclioolhouse is an excellent modern building. Tiierc are three private schools. The ancient name of the parisli was Lithiisk, or, as it is sometimes spelt in old charters, Lorresk, from the circumstance of the parish-church being formerly situated on the lands of that name at the west end of the parisli. 'i'lie church, manse, and glebe, hav- ing been removed about 1630 to the village of Ket- tle, the parish has from that time received the name of the village. In old deeds the name of the village is sometimes written Catul, sometimes Katul. In consequence of that portion of the lands of Kettle on which the village is situated having belonged an- ciently to the Crown, the village as well as the parish is often called Kingskettle. The ancient church was a vicarage, belonging to the priory of St. Andrews; and there were two chapels, respec- tivelv at Chapel and at Clatto. KETTLETOFT. See Sanda, in Orkney. KEVOCH BUKN, a brook of about 4 miles in length of cour.se, running east-north-eastward to Mains water, in the parish of Eagleshani, Renfrew- shire. KIEL BURN, a small brook, running southward to the Forth, in the parish of Largo, Fifesiiire. KIEM (The). See Esk (The Noutii). Forfar- shire. KIER. See Keir. KIL, or Kill, a piefix, of very frequent occur- rence, in Scottish topographical nomenclature. Some antiquaries derive it from the Saxon king; others, from the Latin cella; others, from the Gaelic cill — pronounced keel — which means ' a circle,' and in which some etymologists have found the radix of tiie Latin cceliun. According to the latter, all places in Scotland having the prefix cill or kill, originally derived their names from the proximity of a Druitii- cal circle. It is, however, an historical fact, that a place whose name begins with this prefix, is gener- ally found to have been originally the cell or her- mitage of a saint, whose name usually forms the second half of the appc lation; and the presumption is that the word was borrowed by the Gaels from the old Monkish Latin cella. In the Highland dis- tricts, Kil often implies ' a Ijuiial-place,' probably from there having been originally a cell or chapel, or station of an early Christian missionary, in the neighbourhood. KILARROW. See Kili.arrow. KILBAGIE. See Kexxetpans. KILBARCHAN, a parish, containing the post- town of Kilbarchan, the village of Linwood, and part of tlie village of Bridge of Weir, in the centre 01 Renfrewshire, It is bounded by Houston, Er- skine, Inchinnan, Renfrew, Abbey- Paisley, Locli- winnocli, and Kilmalcolm. Its length eastwaid is upwards of 7 miles ; and its average breadth is about 2 miles. The Gryfe forms its boundary-line on the north; the Black Carton the east and south; and the Loclier and Bride's burn, on the south-west. The lower district, towards the east, is flat, partly fertile land, and partly unreclaimed moss. Towards the west the surface becomes diversified with gentle risings, of which a great portion is cultivated. 'J'lie whole abounds in beautiful scenery, and is much cinbellislied with plantations. There are several pretty cascades on the rivulet Locher, which, after bounding the parish for a short distance, enters it and nnis neaily its whole length, finally falling into the Grvfe. Coal and limestone are wrought to a great extent; and clayband ironstone has lately be- gun to bo worked. The low partof the paiislicontains excellent freestone, and the north-west usmond stone, which is in gicat request for ovens. The principal freestone quarry is one of great depth on the western declivity of an eminence called the Barr-hill, adja- cent to the town of Kilbarchan, on the east; and from it the houses in the town were mostly built. The stratitication of the rocks in this quarry has attracted much attention, being scarcely in accord- ance with the prevailing theories. Over the free- stone there is a stratum of coal; and above this, next the surface, there is whinstone. On the north side of this hill there is a precipice of perpendicular trap rocks, nearly basaltic, incumbent on coal. The rising grounds to the westward of the town, though of inconsiderable elevation, command a brilliant panoramic prospect, over a great extent of rich low country, away to Ailsa Craig, to the Ar- gyleshire and Pertlislure Grampians, and to the bounding heights on the upper part of the basin of the Clyde. On an elevated plain about 2 miies west of the town is a fragment of rock, about 22 ieet long, 17 broad, and 12 feet high, called the Clochodrick stone, and supposed to have formed part of a Druidical temple. On the top of Barr-hill are remains of an encampment, supposed from its fonn to be Danish, consisting of a semicircular parapet of loose stones towards the south, and defended on the north by the precipice already mentioned. In the north-east of the parish are the ruins of a narrow castle, called Kimfurly, anciently the residence of the Knoxes. About 120 yards south-east of this, on an elevated rock, overtopping the castle, is a green mound, all of forced earth, named Castle-hill, of a quadrangular form, 330 feet in circumference at the base, 70 feet in diameter at the summit, and 20 feet high. This may have been an outpost of the Roman camp at Paisley, distant 6 miles, of the site of which it com- mands a full view. From the Knoxes of Ranfurlv were descended John Knox, the Reformer, and Andrew Knox, who was appointed Bishop of tin; Isles on the restoration of Episcopacy, in 1000, and was transferred to the see of Raphoe in Ireland, in 1022. From them are also sprung the Irish family of Knox, Viscounts Northland, who, although not possessed of any property here, took from this place their British title of Baron Ilanfurly, and their Irish one of Earl, conferred, respectively, in 1826 and 1831. The estate of Ranfurly remained in posses- sion of the Knoxes till 1005, when it was sold to the Earl of Dundonald, from whose family it was not long afterwards acquired by the Hamiltons ol Aitkenhead, now Holmhead. Another old baronial castle stood on the estate of Auchinames, but was demolished in 1762. Auchinames belonged to a branch of the Crawfords from the 14th century till the 18th, when it was sold in portions to different IvILBARCHAN. 185 KILBIRKIE pei'sons. The most extensive present proprietor in the parish is ISir Robert John Millilien NajDier, Bart., of Milliken, the direct male representative of the distinguished family of Napier, who first flour- ished m the rei.ijn of Alexander III. The man- sion-house of Milliken, a handsome structure in the Grecian style, situated near the left bank of the IJlack Cart, was built in 1829. The chief part of this estate formed a barony called Johnstone, be- longing to a branch of the family of Houstoun, from whom it was purchased in 1733, by the present pro- prietor's ancestor, who gave to it his own name of Milliken, while the name of Johnstone was trans- ferred by the Houstouns to their estate of Easter Cochrane, on the opposite side of the river. The other mansions in Kilbarchan are Blackstone-house, Glentyan-house, Craigends, and Clippens. A very large proportion of the parishioners are employed in cotton-mills and in handloom weaving. The Glas- gow and South-western railway traverses the south- west border of the parish, and has a station there at Milliken-park, lU miles from Glasgow; and is also i-eadily accessible at Johnstone. Population in 1831, 4,806; in 1861, 6,348. Houses, 541. As- Assessed property in 1860, £26,361. This parish is in the presbytery of Paisley, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Sir P. J. M. Napier, Bart. ^Stipend, £300 2s.; glebe, £32.. Un- appropriated teinds, £1,553 2s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary, £70, with aijont £15 10s. fees, and £9 other emoluments. The parish church, situated in the town, is a structure in the form of a St. George's cross, built in 1724, and containing about 620 sittings. But this edifice being too small to accommodate the congregation, and at the same time not in sufficient disrepair to he legally coii- demnable, a subscription of upwards of £2,000 was recently raised to erect a new and more commo- dious church; and it was said, though incoi'rectly, that the old edifice would be used as a missionary ciiurch, at the expense of the Dowager Lady Na- pier. There is a I'ree church at the Bridge of Weir, formerly an Original Burgher church, built in 1826; and the attendance at it is about 230, — the sutn raised in lS6p was £170 2s. lid. There is an United Presbytei'ian church at Killjarchau, built in 1 788, and containing 906 sittings. There is a Chartist ])lace of meeting at Kilbarchan, with 136 sittings. There are five non-parochial schools. The ancient church of Kilbarchan was dedicated to St. Barclian, and was a dependency of the monastery of Paisley. In 1401, King Robert III. conferred an endowment made by Thomas Crawfurd of Auchinames for the support of a chaplain to officiate at the Virgin Mary's altar in the parish-church of Kilbarchan, and also in a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine, which had been erected by Crawfurd within the church- yard. On a farm, still called Prieston, a little to the east of the castle of Ranfurly, there was another chapel which was founded by the proprietor of the estate. It was dedicated to the Virgin; and the property called Kirklands was annexed to it. The Town of Kjlbakchax stands near the centre of the parish, 1^ mile west of Johnstone, 5^ miles west by south of Paisley, and 12^ west by south of Glasgow. Its site is a gentle rising ground, slop- ing gradually to the south, and terminating on a plain watered by a clear brook called Kilbarchan burn. It is sheltered on three sides by eminences finely wooded, and rising in some parts to the height of nearly 200 feet. Kilbarchan was made a burgh-of-barony shortly before the year 1710; but it had no trade till 1739, when a linen-manufactory was established; and three years afterwards the manufacture of lawns, cambrics &c.. for the Dublin market, was introduced. The principal occupation of the inhabitants is now the weaving by hand- loom, of silk and cotton goods. In the centre of the town is a steeple, erected in 1755, with a school- house of later date. In a niche of the steeple there was placed, in 1822, a statue of Habbie Simpson, piper of Kilbarchan, who died about the beginning of the 17th century, and on whom Robert SenipilJ, of Beltrees, wrote a well-known poem. The town has a public library, several friendly societies, a masons' lodge, bearing the name of St. Barclian, in- stituted 1784, an agricultural societ}-, and a curlers' society. Two annual fairs are held here; the one on Lillia's day, the third Tuesday of July, old syle: and the other on Barchan's day, the fiist Tuesday of December, old style. The public aff"airs of the town are managed , by a committee. Robert Allan, weaver in Kilbarchan, wrote a number of songs, and other poetical pieces of merit, which have been published. Population of the town in 1838,2,333; in 181)1, 2,530. Houses, 232. KILBAG-HEAD, a headland in the parish of Lochs, east side of the island of Lewis. KILBERRY. See Kilcalmokell. KILBIRNIE, a parish, containing a post-town of its own name, in the north-west of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded by Renfrewshire, and by Beith, Dairy, and Largs. Its length south-east- ward is about 7^ miles; audits average breadth is about 2J miles. Garnock water bisects it length- wise through the middle. Routen-burn comes in from Renfrewshire, traces the north-eastern boun- dary over a distance of 3J miles, and falls into Kil- birnie-loch. Several rills rise in the western divi- sion, and flow eastward or southward to join the Garnock. Kilbirnie-loch, a beautiful sheet of water ] J nnle long and half-a-mi!e broad, stored with pike, perch, trout, and eel, stretches from south-west to north-east on the boundary with Beith. Upwards of 250 acres of excellent land have been reclaimed from this ancient lake. More than a third of the parish on the north and north-west is wildly pastoral, running up to the water-shedding line of division with Renfrewshire, coming down thence in a congeries of heathy hills, separated from one another by moorland and moss, and altogether fit only for the puiposes of the sportsman and the rearer of stock. About a third declines gently from the hills with a .southern exposure, and presents soils of sand, clay, and earth, which are far from being infertile, and admit of tiansmutation into rich loam. The remaining part of the surface — con- siderably less than one-third— lies low along the Garnock, and is carpeted with some of the finest and most fertile deep moulds of earth and clay in Scotland. Except near the southern extremity, there is little or no plantation. The New Statisti- cal Account, written in 1840, distributes the entire surface into 1,280 Scotch acres under crop, 2.200 in cultivated grass lands and meadows, 1,000 in green hill pasture, 4,000 in heath, moss-land, watei-, &c., and 78 under wood. The lowest ground in the parish is about 93 feet above the level of the sea; and the highest ground, which is the summit of the Hill of Staik on the north-wtst boundary, is 1,691 feet above that level, and commands one of the most extensive and most brilliant panoramic views in Scotland. An interesting and valuable district of the parish has been noticed in our article Glekgakxock. The whole parish is nominally composed of the three baronies of Kilbirnie, Glengarnock, and Ladvland. which anciently belonged to three different families, though the latter two have come to be distributed among no fewer than about twenty proprietors KILBIIINIE. 186 KILBEANDON. Kilbimie barony is much the most extensive of tlie tluee, and also com prises tlie soutliern or most fer- tile district. It belonged anciently to a branch of the Barclays of A rdrossan; but passed in the 15tli centurv, b"v nianiage, to a branch of the family of Crawford;" and was latterly inherited in 1833 by the fourth Earl ol Glasgow. Kilbirnie castle, situ- ated about a mile west of the town, and once sur- rounded by fine p,ardens and beautiful policies, was built by the Crawford family nearly 360 years ago, and loiig inhabited by them as Viscounts of Gar- nock; but. along with a modern adjoining mansion erected about KiU years ago, and socni after being repaired and beautified by the Earl of Crawford, it was destroyed by fire, and became a roofless niin. The barony of Ladylnnd occupies the northern ])art of the parisii, to the extent of upwards of 1,800 acres; nearly one half of which are arable. The old house of Ladyland, described in lG09as "a strong tower," was.with the exception of a fragment, all demolished in 1S15; and the present mansion, an ch'gant aiul commodious edifice, was built by the late Mr. Cochran in 181 G. Coal, ironstone, and limestone are extensively worked in the parish; and building sandstone and ilagstone are quarried. The average veaily value of raw jiroduce was estimated in 1840 "at £14.898. Assessed property in 18G0, £GG.578. A very large proportion of the inha- bitants are employed in mining operations, in things connected with these operations, in three Sjiiniiing factories, in two net manufactories, in a mpe-work and in hand-loom weaving, 'i'lie parish is traver-sed by tlie Glasgow and South-western railwaj^ and has a station on it contiguous to the town. Poimlation in 1831, 1,541; in^lSGl. 5,2C5. Houses, 423. The increase in the population has arisen from the prosperity of trade and manufac- tures, the extension of mining operations, and the facilities of communication afibrded )jy the railway. This parish is in the jn-esbytery of Irvine, and svnod of Glasgow and Avr. Tatron, the Earl of Eglinton. St'ipeiid, £192 12s. lOd.; glebe, £18. rarochial schoolmaster's salary. £60, with fees. Tlie parish church stands about ^ a mile south of the town, and is an old building of various dates, repaired in 1855. comprising an oblong standing ea.st and west, with wings or aisles trans- verse at its east end, and a plain square tower at its west end. It is remaikable for profuse carvings in oak on the pulpit and on the Crawford gallery; and it contains about 500 sittings. There is a Free clmrch, with an attendance of about 375; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £143 13s. 9d. There is also a Reformed Presbyterian clmrch in the town, built in 1824, and containing 480 sittings. There are a Free church school and an adventure school in the town, and a company's school at Glengarnock. There are also in the town a sul)scription library, a total abstinence society, and a friendly society. The St. Birnie or Bii-inus to whom the original clmrch of the parish was dedi- cated, and from ■whom it had its name, is said to have been a bishop and confessor, who was the in- strument of converting the AVest Saxons, and who died in the year G50. Other churches or chapels in Scotland seem to have been dedicated to him. The chinch of Kilbirnie lielonged anciently to the monks of Kilwinning, and was served by a vicar. The Town of Kii.biknie is pleasantly situated on the Garnock. 9f miles, by railway, north of Irvine, 12f south- south-west of I'aisley, and lOf south-west of Glasgow. It consists principally of a long street, extending north and south on the right bank of the river, and of a shorter street extending westward from the upper end of that street; but comprises also a suburb, containing two of the public works, together with rows of dwelling-houses, on the left bank of the river. Many of the houses being new or recent, and built of a light-coloured sandstone, the town has a cleanly and cheerful aspect. In 1742, it contained only three houses; in 1792, it contained only about 80 families; and even in 1831, it iiad less th'an 1,000 inhabitants; while in 18G1, it had 194 houses and 3,245 inhabitants; so that it is one of the most prosperous small seats of popula- tion in Scotland. It was long ago lighted with gas. 'J'he manor on which it stands was made a free burgh of barony before even the germ of the town had any existence. Here is now a branch of the Citv of (ilasgow baidi, and a fair is held in May. KILBEAIsE. See Gi;icenock, Ikyehahy," and KniKMAUOE. KILBBANDON. a parish in the district of Nether Lorn. Argylcshire. It contains the post- town of Easdale, and the villages of EUen-a-baich, Colipole, and Toberonochy. It consists of a portion | of the mainland, 4 milts long and 2 miles broad, and a group of islands, five of which. Sell. Luing, Eas- dale, Torsay. and Shuna. are inhabitetl. It is bounded, on" the north-west, by the south end of the Sound of Mull; on the north-east, by the Sound of Clachan; on the east, by the parish of Kilninver; on the south-east, by Loch-Melfort; on the south, bv tiie n(n-tli end of "the Sound of Jura; and (m the west, by the Atlantic ocean. Its length, from north to south, inclusive of the belts of sea which inter- sect it, is 10 miles; and its breadth is 6 miles. Its inhabited islands will be noticed in their respective alphabetical places. Its mainland district consists chietly of hill pasture. A bridge connects that district with the island of Seil. The highest giounds in either islands or mainland have not an altitude of more than from 600 to 800 feet above sea-level. Agriculture has been greatly im- proved; and much waste land has been reclaimed. A chief feature of the paiish is the extensive slate quarries of Easdale, Seil, and Luing. Marble also has been quarried in one place; and ores of silver, copper, lead, zinc, and iron are found. The coasts possess several excellent harbours, and abound witli fish. The Marquis of Breadalbane is proprietor of three-fourths of the parish; and Miicdougall of Avdincnple, Campbell of ]\Ielfort, and the Town- council of Glasgow are the other proprietors. Ai'd- maddy-castle, a very old building, situated on an eminence on the main-land, at the head of a fine bay, commanding an extensive prospect, is a scat of the ^larquis of Breadalbane. The only other man- sion is Ardincaple-honse, built about GO years ago. Population of the mainland district, together with Seil, Luing, and Torsay, in 1841,2,002; in 1851, 1 ,765. House, 398. Population of the whole parish in 1831, 2,833; in 1891, 1,859. Houses, 413. As- sessed property in 1860, £8,0G4. Tliis parish is in the presbytery of Lorn, and svnod of Argyle. Pations, the Duke of Argyle, and the Mai-quis of Breadalbane. Stipend, £173 7s. Id.; glebe, £14 10s. There are two parochial schools. The salary of one master is £35, with £26 fees, and a house and garden ; of the other, £35 with £25 fees, but no other emolument. The parish church is situated at the so\itli end of the island of Seil, was built about 112 y-ears ago, and contains about 600 sittings. There is a Fiee church ; and its receipts in 1865 amounted to £80 Gs. 6d. There are also a F. c. school, a Reformed I'resbyterian church, and an Independent chapel. -The present parish comprehends the ancient parishes of Kilhran- don, Kilchattan, Kilbride, and Kilchoan; and it is commonly called, iu ecclesiastical usage, the united KILBKANDON SOUND. 187 KILBRIDE. parish of Kilbrandoo and Kildiattaii, — and, by its own inhabitants and those of the surrounding eoiintrv, the parisli of Choan or Cuan. KILBRANDON SOUND, the belt of sea which separates the isUind of Arran from the peninsula of Kintyre. It is 21 miles long, with a breadth of from 4 to 8 miles; and merges, at the north end, into the mouth of Loch Fyne. It is usually a good herring fishing station. KILBRIDE, a post-office station, subordinate to Lochmaddy, in the Outer Hebrides. KILBRIDE, a post-office station, subordinate to Lochgilphead, Argvleshire. It is often designated, for distinction's sake, Kilbride- Lochswein. tSee Glassary. KILBRIDE, an ancient chapelry in the parish of Strath, in the island of Skye. KILBRIDE, an ancient chapelry in the south- eist of the parish of Kirkmabreck, Kirkcudbright- shire. Its chapel stood near the shore of VVigton biy ; where there is still a hamlet bearing the name ol' Kirkbride. KILBRIDE, an ancient chapelry in the parish of Inverary, Argvleshire. See Inveraey. KILBRIDE, an ancient chapelry in Nether Lorn, Argyleshire, now incorporated with the parish of Kir.BRANDON: which see. KILBRIDE, a parish on the east side of the south end of the Sound of Mull, in Argyleshire. It comprises the island of Kerrera, the burgh of Oban, and a part of the mainland south-east and south of these ; but it is conjoined to the parish of Kilmore, forming with it the united parish of Kil- more and Killiride ; so that our description of it, except so far as given in the articles Kerrera and Oban, nuist be reserved for the article Kilmore. It was anciently a vicarage ; and is supposed to- have been united to Kilmore soon after the Refor- mation. Population in 1831, 2,109; in 1851, 2,579. Houses, 312. KILBRIDE, a parish comprising the east side of the island of AriTdi, except about 2 miles at tlie south end of the island, in Buteshire. It has the post-office station of Loch-Ranza at its north west extremity, and contains the post-office villages of (jonie, Brodick, and Lamlash, at nearly regular in- tervals on its coast. It extends from Loch-Ranza on the north-west to Dippin-point on the south-east, a distance, in a direct line south-south-eastward, of about 20 miles; and from tlie siiore to the mountain watershed, a distance varj^ing from about 2 miles to upwards of 4^ miles. It has been fully described, in a general way, in the article Arran; and some of its principal features or parts form the subject of tho articles Goatfell, Glensannox, Glenrosa, Glensherrig, Glenxt.oy, Brodick, Holy Isle, Lam- lash, and others. All of it, except one farm, be- longs to the Duke of Hamiltoa. The real rental in 184U was £4,512. Assessed property in 1860, £6.211. Population in 1831, 2,656; in 1861, 2,441. Houses, 514. Tills parish is in the presbytery of Kintyre, and synod of Aigyle. Patron, the Duke of Hamilton. Stipend, £27'o" lOs. 8d.; glebe. £20. Unappropriated teinds, £72 8s. 3d. The parish church is situated in Lamlasli, was built in 1773, and contains 560 sittings. There is a ch.-ipel of ease at Brodick; built as an extension cluircli in 1839. There are a Free church of Kilbjide, and a Free church of J^och- Kanza; the former with leceipts, in 1865, of £185 10s. lOd., — the latter with £93 16s. There is an Indepen- pent chapel at Glensannox, containing 260 sittings. 'i'here are 3 parochial schools. The schoolmaster at l^amlash receives £50; at Currie £35; and at Loch- Ranza £13 per annum. There are an Assembly's school at Whiting bay, and a very handsome, re- cently erected, endowed school at Brodick. There are public libraries at Brodick and at Lamlash. KILBRIDE (East), a parish, containing the post town of East Kilbride, the villages of Aldhouse, Crossbill, Jackton, Braehead, Kittockside, Is'er- ston, and Maxwelltown, and part of the pcst- office village of Busby, on the west border of the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded by the counties of Ayr and Renfrew, and by the parishes of Carmunnock, Cambuslang, Blantyre, Glassford, and Avondale. Its length southward is nearly 10 miles; and its breadth varies from 2 to 5 miles. In general it is a high-lying district. Crossbasket, the least elevaited ground, is about 200 feet above the level of the sea; and the summit of Eldrig, nearly 7 miles south of Crossbasket, is computed to be, at least, 1,600 feet. From Crossbasket to Eldrig there is a gradual ascent, formed by a regular succession of little hills, with very little expanse of level ground between them. A moorland tract com- mences about 2 miles to the north of Eldrig, and continues a considei-able way down the south side of the ridge, where Kilbride borders with Ayrshire. Four streams rise in the parish, and run diver- gently to effect its drainage ; — the Powmillon, south-easterly and for about 2 miles on the southern boundary, to fall afterwards into the Avon, the White Cart, north-westerly for more than 4 miles, chiefly along the western boundary ; the Kittock, north-westerly tlirough tlie centre, past the town of East Kilbride and the village of Kittockside, to fall afterwards into the Cart ; and the Rotten Calder, north-westerly for upwards of 7 miles, chiefly along the eastern boundary, to fall afterwards into the Clyde. Coal exists only to a limited extent, and is of very indifterent quality. Limestone and free- stone, however, both of excellent quality, abound in the parish, and are carried in large quantities to other places. The principal lime-works are at l>lackbraes, Thornton-hall, Braehead, and Buciian- dyke; and there are extensive freestone quarries at Lawmuir, Bogton, Benthall, and Torrance. There is an ironstone mine at Basket, and tile-worksat Spring- bank and Millhouse. Roman cement is extensively found and worked in the parish. Agricultural im- provement has been very extensive and successful. Dairy produce, in particular, is at least four times greater than it was 55 years ago. Planting, how- ever, has been much less extensive than in many a similar district. There are 18 landowners of above £100 of old Scotch valuation; and a very great number of smaller valuation. The parish is tra- versed by the roa I from Glasgow to Muirkirk, and by that from Eaglesham to Hamilton; and the lower-part of it is not ftir distant from the stations of the Clvdesdale Junction railway. Population in 1831, 3,789; in 1861, 4,064. Houses, 533. As- sessed property in 1860, £26,181. Nearly two-thii'ds of this parish belonged an- ciently to the powerful family of the Comyns, but were forfeited by them in the time of Bruce. Ha- milton of Wishaw says, " This baronie and paroch was given by King Robert Bruce as ane part of the mariage portion of his daughter Marjorie, to Walter, the Great Stewart of Scotland; and hetli been alwayes reckoned since as a part of the Prin- cipalitie." These lands afterwards passed into the possession of Lindsay of Dunrod, whose predecessor assisted the King at the killing of the Red Com\-n at Dumfries. This family, once a potent one in the district, has long been extinct, and they have lelt a very unenviable reputation behind them. " They flourished in great wealth and splendour," says Ure's History of East Kilbride, " till little more KILBRIDE. 188 KILBRIDE. than a century apfo, when the estate was sold to pay the debt whicli tlic extiavapuice of its owner lorced him to contract. It is reported that the last proprietor in tlie Dunrod family greatly exceeded nil his predecessors in lianghtiness. oppression, and vice of every kind. He seUloni went from liome unless attended by 12 vassals well-nioniited on white steeds." The Maxwells of Caklcrwood, who are still connected with the parisli, have been con- nected with it since the reign of Alexander III.; the Stuarts of Torrance also have been very long connected with it; and these two families have frequently given to the nation men of distinguished ability. Tlie ruins of Mains-Castle, once the splen- did residence of the Comyns and the Lindsays, and afterwards the property of the Stuarts, are still seen about a mile distant from the town. Caldeii^'ood- house, the seat of Colonel Sir William A. Alaxwell, Hart., is a splendid edifice, enlarged and beautified in 1840. Torrance-house is an assemblage of build- ings of various dates, the oldest about oUU yenrs old. The other mansions in the parish are Crossbasket- house, Jjawmuir-house, Limekilns-house, Kirkton- holm, and Cleugheru-lodge. The celebrated Mrs. Jean Cameron resided for several years in East Kil- bride. She was of an ancient and distinguished family; and her enthusiastic attachment to the cause of the exiled royal house of Stuart, with the efforts which she made to sustain its fortunes in 1745, made her name well-known in Britain. She kept the farms of Blacklaw and KoJdenhead in her possession, died in 1773, and was buried amid a clump of trees, near the solitary house of Blacklaw at wliicb she resided. The place has since been called Mount Cameron. — A peculiar interest also attaches to this parish as being the birth-place of the celebrated Hunters, — Dr. William Hunter, emi- nent as a physicifin and a scientific inquirer, and Dr. John Hunter, eminent for his medical investi- gations, and his muniiicent l)equests to aid the cause of science. They were born at Long-Calder- wood, a place about 1^ mile north of the town of East Kilbride. This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £339 13s. 4d.; glebe, £18. Unappropri- ated teinds, £\,'?.l'l r2s. 9d. Tlie parish church is situated in the town, was built in 1744 and repaired in 1838, and contains 900 sittings. Attached to it is a small steeple which belonged to its predecessor. There is a Free church; and the sum raised in con- nexion with it in 18.55 was £21(3 10s. 3^d. There is an United Presbyterian church ; which was built in 1791, and contains 913 sittings. It formerly belong- ed to the Pelief. There are a principal parochial school in the town, with a salary of £60, and two side parochial schools at Aldliouse and Jaekton, with each a salary of £10 Os. There are a private school in the town, and an endowed school at Max- wellton. There are a parochial library, a subi5crip- tion library, and several friendly societies. — The parish is called East Kilbride t« distinguish it from West Kilbride in Ayrshire. Its ancient church be- longed to the Bishops of Glasgow. The present parish comprehends also the ancient parish of Tor- rance, whose church stood about ^ a mile from the mansion of Torrance, adjacent to the boundary with Blantyre. The Town of East Kilbiude stands in the north- eastern part of the parish, on the road from Glasgow to Muirkirk, 6 miles west of Hamilton, 7| south- south-east of Glasgow, and 8A north-west of Strath- aveii. It is a poor place, with no considerable trade or manufacture, and largely dependant on mere handloom weaving. It was erected into a burgh-of- barony in the reign of Queen Anne; and the bur- ghers were authorised to hold a weekly market and four fairs in the year. The market was discon- tinued seventy years ago; three of the fairs have fallen into desuetude, and the fourth, which is held in June, is not regarded as of much importance to the surrounding countrv. Population in 1841, 92(j; in IB*)!, 1,171. Houses, 128. KlLBlilDE (West), a parish, containing a small post-town of its own name, on the coast of the district of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded by Largs, Dairy, Ardrossan, and the frith of Clyde. Its length southward is about miles; and its greatest breadth is about 3^ miles. A continuation of the rolling ridge of hill wliieh commences at Greenock, and forms a sea-screen down the const of Kenfrewsliire, comes boldly in upon the parish, especially on its eastern verge, and undulates over its whole area, softening in character as it approaches tlie south. Along the east, the hills form a naturnl boundary, and send up one summit — that of Kaim — nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. In the interior, they are in some instances concatenated, in otliers in- sulated; and, in general, they decline in height as they approach the frith. Many of them are green to their summit, and command magnificent views of the frith of Clyde, with both its eastern and its western screens; and they embosom various ro- mantic little vales. Five burns, with their tiny tributaries, all begin and end their course within the parish, and are the only streams by which it is watered; but, in rainy weather, they sometimes come down with much bulk and power. Kilbride- burn, the largest of them, rises on the west side of Glenton-hill, flows past the town of West Kilbride, and enters the frith at Sea-Mill. Southannan-burn, near the northern boundary, pursues its course through a romantic glen, and forms a series of beaa- tiful cataracts. The coast-line of the parish, owing to the advantage gained by peninsularity of form, is about 7 miles in extent. At the angle, or south- west extremity, projects the promontory of Portin- cross, terminating in a wall of rock 300 feet high, cnlled Ardneil bank, or Goldbeny-head, separated from the margin of the sea only by a very narrow belt of verdant bind, and extending in a straight line of about a mile in length. Naturnl wood, con- sisting of oak, hazel, ash, and hawthorn, runs in thick tuftings along the base of the precipice; and ivy, with gray and golden coloured lichens, im- presses a beautiful traceiy athwart its front. Every- where, except at this remnikable headland, tlie coast of the parish is low and shelving. From the northern boundary to a point about two miles south, stretch the sands of Southannan, of lialf-nioon form, sheltered by a curving recess in the land, measuring at their centre, when the tide is out, about a mile in breadth, rich in their beds of shell-fish, and in flocks of wild fowl. The prevailing rock of the parish is coarse sandstone, with veins of basaltic and porphyritic trap. Excellent millstones have long been qunrried on the Kaim. The soil, over nearly Ibur-filths of the parish, or up the sides and over the summits of its almost incessant heights, is poor, mossy, and moorland, on a subsoil of coarse till, yet admitting, around the bases and on the lower sides of the heights, not a few patches of loamy and calcareous land of kindly and fertile character. About two-thirds, or a little more of the entire area, is regularly or occasionally subjected to the plough; and nearly one-third is pastoral. Large attention is given to the dairy. Only aliout 150 acres are under wood. The parish comprises seven estates or baronies, all of ancient formation, but two of them now much divided. The road from KILBRIDE. 189 KILBUCHO. Siltcoats to Greenock traverses the parish; the har- bimr and the raihvay of Ardrossan are within easy access; and at Portincross is a small quay, offering accomniodation at liigh water to vessels of 40 or 50 tons burden, and used in making shipments for tlie Clyde. Population in 1831, 1,675; in 1861, 1,968. lionses, 266. The assessed property iti 1860 was £13,115. * )n a ledge of rock, close upon the sea, under Ardneil bank, stand the rninons yet tolerably com- plete walls of the vei'v ancient castle of Portincross. Tiie promontory here being one of the most westerly points of the Lowlands of Scotland, and lying con- veniently between Edinburgh and lona, and be- tween Dundonald and Rothesay, the castle was probably a halting-plnce of the Scottish kings on embarking either for iJute or for the burying-place of their early ancestors. Some charters of the first and the second Stuarts purport to have re- ceived the sign-manual at " Arnele," and may pos- sibly evince this castle — however small and incom- modious — to have worn, in a limited degree, similar lionours to those of the castle of Dundonald. A brief distance seaward from the promontory, at a spot where the depth of water is 10 fathoms, sunk a principal ship of the famous Spanish armada. rh,j most remarkable of the hills of the parish, espe- cially Tarbet- hill, the L iw, Auld-liill, and the Kaim, were used as sign.vl-posts during the period of the Danish invasions. On Auld-hill are remains of a circular building, which probably was occupied as a watch-tower. On the Law, overlooking the vil- lage, are the ruinous walls of Law-castle, a stately and very ancient tower, formerly one of the seats of the Earls of Kilmarnock. Near a fine cascade of Southannan burn, stand the ruins of a very ele- gant mansion, formerly the residence of the family of Semple, and now the property of the Earl of Eglinton. Tiie house was built in the reign of James VI. by a Lord Sample, who brought the model of it from Italy. Immediately adjoining tlie ruin stands a neat modern cottage ornee. Near the coast about 1 or H mile south of Southannan, in a position which originally was a narrow small penin- sula running into a morass, stands the ancient man- sion of Hnnterston, now occupied as a farm-house, and sending up a square tower of apparently high antiquity. The modern mansion, a handsome new edifice, is nearer the sea. — Dr. Robert Simson, the well-known professor of mathematics in the univer- sity of Glasgow and the translator and editor of Euclid, and General Robert Boyd, Lieutenant- governor of Gibraltar during the notable siege of that great fort in 1782, were natives of West Kil- bride. This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and svnod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, tlie Earl of Eglinton. Stipend, £259 iSs. Id.; glebe, £13 r2s. Unappropriated teinds, £258 4s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £60. The parish churcli was built in 1732, and contains about 800 sittings. There is a Free church: attendance, 240 ; sum raised in 1865, £240. There is an United Presbyterian church, with an attendance of about 135. There are a Free church school, a i['.iblic library, and three friendly societies. The aioient church belonged to the monks of Kilwinning, and was served "bv a vicar. In the parish there were, previous to the" Reforma- tion, several chapels. One stood on the coast, IJ mile soutli of the church, at a place to which it gave the name of Cliapelton. Another stood at Southan- nan, in the immediate vicinity of the ancient man- sion of the family of Sempell; and was built bj- .Tohn, Lord Semple, in the reign of James IV., and dedicated to Saint Inan, — reported to have been a confessor at Irvine, and to have died in the yef.i 839. The Town of West Kii.r.niDE stands on the road from Saltcoats to Greenock, f of a mile from the nearest part of the coast, 4^ miles north-west ot Ardrossan, and 7J south of" Largs. Its site is a finely sheltered depression, on the course of the Kilbride burn, which has a south-south-westward direction, and on which are two mills for grinding oats, — on which likewise were formerly a number of other mills and works of various kinds, which have all now disappeared. The chief employments are weaving and hand-sewing in subordination to the manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. In 1838, 85 harness-looms and 5 plain looms were employed on fabrics in all the three departments of cotton, silk, and woollen. The condition of the weavers, as in most other places, is painfully depiessed. Near the centre of the town, on a gentle rising ground, stands the parish-church, a long nai-row mean-look- ing edifice, low in the walls and deep-roofed, in the town also are the other places of worship, the schools, and the library. Population, 1,083. K1L1jRIDE-BAY, a small bay near the southern extremity of the parish of Kilfinan, district of Cow- a). Argvleshire. KILBRIDE-CASTLE, the seat of Sir James Campbell, Bart., in the parish of Dunblane, Perth- shire. The old valued rent of the estate connected with it is £754 Scotch. KILBRIDE-HILL. See Dumfries-siiip.e. KILBUCHO, a parish on the west border of Pee- bles shire, united to Broughtou and Glenholm. See Broughtox. It is bounded by Lanarkshire, Skir- ling. Broughton, and Glenholm. It has a triangu- lar outline!,^ measuring 4| miles on the north side, the same on the south-east side, and 3f on the south- west side. Biggar-water, coming in from the north- west, traces nearly the whole of the northern boundary. Kilbucho-water rises on the side of Cardon-iiill at the southern angle, runs 1^ mile due north, and thence flows north-eastward parallel witii the south-east boundary, till it falls into Biggar- water. Cardon-hill rises 1,400 feet above the level of the Tweed, which is at 3 miles' distance. From this hill a chain runs north-eastward till it strikes Biggar-water ; and over the whole distance it forms a water-shedding line, constitutes the boundary, and consists of lieights whose sides and summits are covered with heath and grass. At the base of this ridsre is a narrow and pleasant vale watered by the Kilbucho. Screening this vale on the north- west side, and parallel with the first ridge, is a broader and h-ss strongly featured stretch of heights, also clothed in mingled russet and green. Beyond this ridge, a beautiful valley, comparatively broader and finely decorated with wood on the west, some- what contracted as it advances eastward, and again expanding as it forms an angular junction with the former vallev, stretches along Biggar-water. In the north-east angle stands the church of the united parishes; and U mile inward, from the southern angle is the site "of the ancient church of Kilbucho. The saint from whom the parish has its name was either a female called Bega, of whom nothing is known, or, more probably, by a corruption of the orthography, the celebrated Bede. Tradition re- ports that a number of monks of Bede's order set- tled in the parish, and that they raised some beau- tiful banks whicli still exist. A well of excellent water, also, bears the name of St. Bede's well. The parish was anciently a ix-ctory in the deanery of Peebles. The barony of Kilbucho belonged, at the accession of Robert I., to the Grahams of Dalkeith and Abercorn; it passed, in the reign of David 11.. KILCADZOW 190 KILCHOMAN. to the Doupflases ; it afterwards passed successively to Lord Flemiiif^ and the Earl of Morton ; and was acquired, durint::: the rcijrn of Charles I., by Joiui Dickson, whose descendants continue to possess it. ]'opulation in 1831. 353; in 1851, 345. >Iouses, 57. Assessed property in 18C>(), 4)3,332. KILCADZOW, a village in the parish of Car- luke, Lanarksliire. Population, 160. Houses. 40. Kilcadzow-law, contiguous to it, is the highest .uround in the parish, and has an altitude of 150 feet above the gate of Cleghoni avenue, and about 895 above tlic level of the sea. KILCALMOXELL and KII>BERRY, an united parisli in Kintyre and Knapdale, Argyleshire. It contains the post-town and sea-port of Tarbert, and the post-ofHce village of Clachan. KilcalmoncU is in Kintyre, and comprehends the whole breadth of that peninsula, from Loch Tarbert on the west to Loch-Fyne on the east, till separated from the latter by the naiTOw but long parish of Skipness. Its west- ern side extends the whole length of Loeh-Tarbcrt, which is about 12 miles, and stretches 4 miles be- yond it, along the coast cf the Atlantic ocean. Its breadth is from 3 to 5 miles. Kilberry lies in Knap- dale ; is bounded on the south by Loch-Tnrhcrt. on the west by the Atlantic ocean, and on the north- east by South Knapdale ; and has a somewhat trian- gular outline, measuring about 7 miles along eacli of its sides. '• Kilcalmonell rises sometimes with a gentle acclivity, at other times with greater abrupt- ness from the sea to its greatest elevation. The general altitude of the range of hills in -which it terminates on the south east, does not exceed 1,500 feet; whilst the few valleys by which the unifor- mity of the acclivity is disturbed, rise not more than 100 or 150 feet above the level of the sea. Kil- berry is bisected from west to east by a ridge of hill which rises gradually till it is lost in the cloud which frequently envelopes the lofty Sliobh-ghoil. one of the two bases of which extends out into con- siderable In-eadth of soil, well fitted to reward the labours of the husbandman ; while the other pos- sessing equal extension, is of a more moorland char- acter. The coast of Kilcalmonell is not remarkable for variety of aspect, excepting along the shore of Loch-Tarbert, which is overliung along a consider- able portion of it, by the bircii, the alder, and the oak, growing in careless profusion towards the sum- mit of the abruptly ascending hills. The shore is chiefly sandy. The sea coast of Kilberrv presents a bold front to the billows of the Atlantic. The only bay worth noticing in the united parish is .Stomoway, in the neighbourhood of which is the headland pf Ardpatriek, where tradition affirms Saint Patrick to have landed on his way from Ire- land to lona." The principal landowners are Camp- bell of Stonefield, Campbell of Kilberry, and Mac- donald of Lorgie; and there are six others, of above £50 of annual valuation. Limestone occurs, and seaware is plentiful. Tliere are several harl)ours with fishing-villages, from which busses are sent out to the hen-ing fishery. The entrance to Kin- tyre was formerly defended by a chain of forts, one at each side of the isthmus of Tarbert. and one in the centre. The principal of them, the castle of Tarbert, is a fine old ruin, surmounting the rocks at the entrance of the harbour. There are remains of many other old fort.s in the parish, particularly one with vitrified walls, and another with a verv "thick wall of dry stones, both built on the hill o"f Dun- skeig, which commands the opening of Loch-Tar- bert. There are also numerous cairns. SliabhGaoil or ' the Hill of Love' is celebrated in ancient ston' as the scene of the death of Diarinid, the Achilles of the Fingalian heroes, and the great progenitor of the family of Campbell, who are known to this dav by the name of Clann Dhiarmaid, ' the Children ol Diarmid.' Population of the united parish in 1831, .3,48,-^; in 1851, 2.859. Hou.ses, 497. Population of Kilcalmonell in 1831, 2,495; in 1861. 2,312. Houses, 432. Assessed property of the united par- isii in 1860, .£9,913. This parish is in tlie presbytery of Kintyre, and synod of Argvle. Patron, tlic Duke of Argvle. Stipend, £218 5s. lid.; glebe, £17 10s. There "are two parish churches; and service is performed in them alternately. Kilcalmonell church was built aliout the year i760, and enlarged in 1828; sittings 600. Kilberry church was built in 1821; sittings 700. Tlicre is a chapel at Tarbert, which was built in 1775, and contains 400 sittings, and is served by a missionary of tiie Koyal bounty. There is a Free church at Tarbert: attendance, 400; sum raised in 1855, .£84 16s. ^(\. There is a Free church preacli ing-station in Kilberry; sum raiseil in 1855. £16 5s. 4d. There is an Independent chapel at Clachan, erected about tlie year 1815. Tliere are two par- ochial school?!, witli salaries of £40 and £25 13s. 9il., and five or si.\ non-parochial schools. The name Kilcalmonell signifies the burying-place of Mal- colm O'Neill; and the name Kilberry probably signifies the burying-place of Mary. KILCHATTAN, a parish in Argyleshire, united to Kir.itRAxnoN: which see. KILCHATTAN, a post-office village in the par- ish of Kingarth, in the island of Bute. It stands on a bay of its own name. 6 miles south of Kothesay. The bay has a semicii'cular outline, measures about 1 h mile across the mouth, and looks eastward op- posite the south end of the Big Cumbray. Popula- tion of the village, 167. Houses, 44. KILCHENZIE. See Killeax. See Lis.MOKE. See Ardxamukciias and Kil- KILCHERAN. KILCHOAN. bkaxdox. KILCHOMAN office villaae of a parish, containing the post- Port-Charlotte and the fishing villages of Portnahaven and Port-AVemyss, in the Islay district of Argyleshire. It comprises the south-western peninsula of the island of Islay, be- tween Loch-Gruinard and Lochindall, two farms on the north side of that peninsula, the islets near the mouth of Loch Gruinard, and the islets adjacent to the Rliinns of Isla}'. Its length, north and south. is 14 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 6 miles. A sufficient general description of it is con- tained in our article on Islay. The New Statistical Account classifies its surface into 4.500 imperial acres of cultivated land, 20,000 capable of being cultivated, 20 under wood, and 25,480 in pasture. Sunderland-house, the mansion of one of the land- owners, was built about 33 yeais ago, and stands on an elevated declivity about a mile from Lochin- dall. A lighthouse was built on Isle-Orsay, ad- jacent to the Rhinns, in 1824. The yearly value of the raw produce of the parish was estimated in 1844 at £23.428. Assessed property in 1860, £8.41.i. Population in 1831,4,822; in 1861, 3,436. Houses, 613. This parish is in the presbytery of Islay and Jura, and synod of Argvle. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d. ; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's salaiy now is £50. The parish church was built in 1825, and contains 608 sittings. There is a parliamen- taiy church, with the usual government provision, at Portnahaven; and in May, 1849, it was consti- tuted by the Court-of-Teinds a quoad sacra parish church. There are a Free church of Kilchoman, and a Free church preaching-station of Portna- haven ; .and the receipts of the former in 1865 w.";r« KILCHRENAN. 191 KILCONQUHAK. £i]i 9s. 2cl. — of tlie latter £16. Tlieie is an In- dependent chapel at Port-Ciiarlotte, built in 1830, and containing 200 sittings. There are ten non- parochial schools; four of them maintained by public bodies. There are witliin the parish ruins of five ancient churches, all -nith attached burj'ing- grounds. In the parochial church-yard, is a very fine ancient cross. There are also in the parish several ancient obelisks. KILCHREGGAN. See Kilckegcax. KILCHRENAN and DALAVICH, an united parish, containing the post-otKce station of Kii- clirenan, in the district of Lorn, Argyleshire. It is entirely inland, and lies along both sides of the south-west arm of Loch-Awe. Its length is 15 miles, and its medium breadth is 8. The surface rises by a gradual ascent, on each side of the lake, to a line of watershed at the distance of about 4 miles, yet is much diversified with heights and hollows, and with the beds of streams. 'i'he general scenery, as may be inferred from our article on Loch-Awe, is brilliantly picturesque. Heath abounds on the uplands ; but, since the in- troduction of sheep-farming, tlie pasture is more luxuriant, and the hills have assumed a greener hue. On the shores of the lake are some excellent arable land, natural pasturage, and much valuable wood. The principal landowners are the Marquis of Breadalbane, Malcolm of Poltalloch. Campbell of Sonachan, and Campbell of Monzie. The mansions are Eridine-house and Sonachan- house. There are interesting antiquarian recollections connected with DALA%ncH: see that article. Population of the united parish in 1831. 1,466; in 1851, 776. Houses, 162. Populaticm of Kilchrenan in 1831, 851; in 18fil, 615. Houses, 136. Assessed property of the united parish in 1860, £4,816. This parish is in the presbytery of Lorn, and synod of Argyle. Patron, the Duke of Argyle. Stipend. £170 15s.; glebe, £11. There are two parish-chuiches, aljout 9 miles distant from each other, both erected about 84 years ago; and service is performed in them on alternate Sal)baths. Theie is a Free church preaching station in Kilchrenan; and tiie sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £16 12s. 5d. There are three parochial schools, — one of them in Kilchrenan, with £18 salary, £3 fees. and £11 lOs. other emoluments, — the other two in Dalavich, with lespectively £!8 salary, £10 fees. and £1 15s. other emoluments, and £17 10s. salary, £7 fees, and £1 other emoluments. There are'a female school of industry and a parochial librarv. KILCHRIST. See Cilliechrist. KILCHURN-CASTLE, a noble relic of feudal ages, in the parish of Glenorchy, Argyleshire. It stands near the head of Loch-Awe, under the im- pending gloom of the majestic Bencruachan, which rises in rocky masses abruptly from the opposite shore of the lake. Amid the grandeur and variety which that fine lake derives from its great expanse, and the lofty mountains witli which it is surrounded^ Kilchurn-castle forms a leading and most pictur- esque object. "It is paramonnt, and rules Over the pomp and beauty of a scene Where mountains, torrents, lakes, and woods unite To pay it homage." "No Other ancient castle in the Western Highlands can compete with it in point of magnitude; and none, even throughout Scotland at large, can be compared with it for the picturesque arrangement of its buildings, the beauty and tine effect of its varied and broken outline, or its happy appropriate- ness to its situation. Its site is a rocky elevation, at the moutii of the water of Orch}', alternately a j peninsula and an island as the lake and river are low or in flood, and evidently altogether an island when the castle was built. The oldest part of the castle is said to have been erected by the lady of Sir Colin Campbell of Glenorchy, the ancestor of the noble family of Breadalbane. Sir Colin, who was a Knight-Templar, was absent on a crusade at the time; and for seven years the principal portion of the rents of his lands is said to have been expended in its erection b_v his lady. The great tower was five stories in height, the second story being en- tirely occupied by the baronial hall. That necessary appendage of a feudal castle, the dungeon, is on the ground- floor, and appears to have been sufficiently dark, damp, and wretched to render utterly miser- able the unfortunate beings who, from time" to time, were forced to tenant it. The remaining portions of the castle, which form a square enclosing the court-yard, though of considerable antiquitv, are certainly not so ancient as the tower, and doiibtless were added at some more recent period. The second Sir Colin of Glenorchy, surnamed Bulk, or Black, son of the Knight-Templar, was proprietor of seven different castles, — a sufficient evidence of the great wealth which must have been possessed, even at that early period, by the ancestors of the now powerful family of Breadalbane. So late as 1 745, Kilchurn-castle was garrisoned by the King's troops; and at a much more recent period, it was fit to be inhabited. One of the factors of the Breadalbane estates caused the roof to be taken ofl', merely to obtain an easy supply of wood, to the irreparable injury of the castle, and the unavailirig regret of its noble proprietor, who was then absent. The greatest care is now taken of its preservation; but open and exposed as it now is, time and ihe winter-storms will soon work its decay. Words- worth has addressed some fine lines to Kilehurn- castle. Concluding thus: — " Shade of departed power. Skeleton of unfleshed humanity. The chronicle wcie welcome that should c;dl Into the compass of distinct regard The toils and struggles of thy infancy I Yon foaming flood seems motionless as ice; Its dizzy turbulence eludes the eye. Frozen by di^tance; so, ni.njestic pile. To the perception of this Age appear 'J'hy fierce beginnings, softened and subdued, And quieted in character — the strife. The piide, the fury uncontrollable Lost on the aerial heights of the Crusades! " KILCHUSLAND. See Campbelton. KILCOLUMKILL. See Morvex. KILCONQUHAK, a parish in the south-east of Fifeshire. Jt contains the post-town of Colins- burgh, the royal burgh of Earlsfeny. and the vil- lages of Kilconquhar, Barnyards, Williamsburgli. and Liberty. It extends in a stripe north-nordi- westward from the fiith of Forth; and is bounded by that frith, and by the parishes of I-21ie, Newbuin, Largo, Ceres, Cameron, Carnbee, and St, Monance, Its length is about 9 miles; and its avei-age breadth is about 2 miles. The surface is highly diversified. Immediately from the beach at the lower end of tlie parish, Kincraig hill rises to the height of about 200 feet above the level of the sea. its soutliern front presents a peipendicular rugged wall of trap rock, of picturesque appearance. ■ Fiom the summit of this hill the giound gradually descends towards the north, till it becomes nearly level, and then gently ascends to Reres and Kilbrackmont, where it is 600 feet above the level of the sea. North of this it descends into a deep ravine, and from thence it again rises lor two miles till it reaches its great- est elevation, about 750 feet, at Dunxikjer-Law. which see. From thence it again declines for two KILCOXQUHAR. 192 KILDA. mileo; and then again ascends to Ihuntshields, at the nortliern extremity of the parish. Copious springs of excellent water everywhere occur. The largest stream, though a nu're brook, drives five corn-mills and a flax-mill, and falls into Largo bny at 8hooter's-p<)int, on the boundary between Kilcon- quhar and Newhurn. The tract north of Dunnikier- law belongs to the basin of the Eden. Kilconquhar loch, lying immediately south of the village of Kil- conquhar, is a beautiful sheet of water, about two miles in circumference, fringed on tliroe of its four sides with wood. It has long been a favourite haunt of swans; and a famous reputed witch of Pittenweem is said to have been drowned in it. [lence tiic lines, — "They took her to Kinnitichar Inch, And threw the Ihiiiner in; Ami a' the s\van-i took to the hills, Scar'd wi the iinhaely din." The soil of the parish is considerably various, but generally fertile, and nearly all under cultiva- tion. Coal and lime are wo.ked, to the value of about £G,OUi» a-year. There are in the parish nearly 1,000 imperial acres under wood. The most exten- sive landowner is .Sir John 'I'rotter Ilethune, Bart.; whose seat, Kilconquhar-house, is situated imme- diately east of the village of Kilconquhar. It is a handsome edifice, surrounded by beautiful pleasure- grounds. Sir John is a lateral descendant of the noble family of Crawford, and represents the Lind- savs of Pyatstone; and his predecessor, Sir Henry Lindsay Betluuie, was created a baronet for distin- guished services in Persia. The next most exten- sive landowner is Sir Coutts T. Lindsay of Balcar- res, ]'y.\Yt., also a descendant of tlie noble family of Crawford, and whose sent of Balcarres is situated immediately north of Colinsburgh. See I^alcahues, Tlie other mansions in the parish are Latballan. Cliarleton, Falfield, and C'airnie. The finnly of Gourlay have been proprietors of the estate of Kin- eraig for about GOO yenrs. Anciently it formed a barony, and included many other lands in various counties. The original of the femily was Ingelra- nuis de Gourlay, who came from England, and settled . ill Scotland during the reign of William the Lion. There are altogether thirteen landowners of the parisli; and the real rental is nearl}^ £10,000. As- sessed property in 186", £15,656 Os. 6d. Estimated average yearly value of raw pioduee in 1837, £30,632. 'J'he parish is traversed in all directions by excellent turnpike I'oads. The village of Kilconquiiar stands in tlie sontheni part of the parish, 1 mile south-east of (,'oiinsburgh, and 4^ miles enst of Largo. Popu- lation of tlie village in 1801. 300. Popula- tion of the parish in 1831, 2,5-10; in 1861,2,431. Houses, 559. This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife. Pation, the Earl of Crawford and Balcarres. Stipend, £314 16s. 8d.; glebe, i'27. Unappropriated teiiids, £246 1 Is. 2d. School- master's salary now is £55. The jiarish church is a handsome Gothic building, with a tower 80 feet high, situated on a small knoll in the middle of the village of Kilconquhar, built in 1821, and contain- ing 1,035 sittings. A chapel of ease at Largoward. in the part of the parish contiguous to Carnbee and Cameron, was built in 1835, and contains 400 sit- tings; and is in the presentation of the scatholders. There is an United Presbyterian church in the vil- lage of Kilccmqnhar, built in 1795, and containing 270 sittings. 'J'here is also an United Presbyterian church in Colinsburgh, built about the vear 1800, and containing 300 sittings. There is an Independent chapel on the southern border of the parish, often spoken of by mistake as being in Elie, built in 1851, and containing 160 sittings. There are five non- parochial schools. The ancient jiarish of Kilcon- quli.ar comprehended also the parish of Elie and the barony of St. Monanee. There are in the locks of Kincraig hill several caves, called Macduff's cave, Hall cave, and the Devil's cave; and tradition says that MacdnlF concealed himself in that which bears his name, when fleeing from the jealous rage of Macbeth. KILCOY, an estate in the parish of Killearnan, contiguous to the Beauly frith, on the south-east bordel- of Ro.ss-shire. It comprises 977 imperial acres of arable land, 881 of wood, and 1,182 of pas- ture. Here is an old castle, now a ruin, once the seat of the family of Mackenzie of Kilcoy, and the birthplace of the* distinguished Licutenant-Gmeral Mackenzie Fraser. A fair is held at Kilcoy in t\te month of Mav. KILCREGGAN, a post-office village in Rose- neatli, Dumbartonshire. It is situated on the coast at the south-west extremity of Roseneath, at the east side of the entrance into Loeh Long, about 3 miles cast of Strone, and about the same distance north-north-west of Gourock. It has recently be- come one of the fashionable watering-places of the Clyde, and now makes a display of numerous neat new houses along the shore. Steamers ply to it dail}', or several times a-day, direct from Greenock. It takes its name from an ancient chapel, of which no ruins remain. KILDA (St.), or Hirta, an island belonging to the parish of Harris in Inverness-sbiie. It is situ- ated in north latitude 57° 29' and west longitude 8" 32', nearly due west of North Uist, and 37 miles south-west of the Flannan Isles ; and, though classed with the Hebrides, lies far distant from even their outer main group, and is much the most westerly piece of Scottish ground, — " Whose lonely race Resign the setting sun to Indian worlds." It measures about 3 miles from east to west, 2 fron. north to south, and 9h in circumference. Its coast is all faced with perpendicular rock, of prodigious height, except a part of the bay or landing-place on the south-east; and even there the roeks are of great height, and the nari-ow passage to the top is so steep, that n few men armed only with stones could preA'ent any hostile multitude from landing. The bay is also of difficult access, as the tides and waves, except in a calm, are impetuous. The sur- face of tlie island is rocky, rising into four distinct summits. The highest of these, called Conachan, was estimated by Dr. Macculloch to be 1,380 feet above the sea-level; and presents on one side a precipice of nearly this elevation. " It is a dizzy altitude," says Macculloch, " to the spectator who looks from above on the ijiaudible waves dashing below. There are some rocky points near the bot- tom of this precipice, — one of them presenting a magnificent natural arch, which, in any other situ ation, would be striking, but arc here lost in the overpowering vicinity of the clifl's that tower above them. In proceeding, these soon become low; but at the north-western extremity, the island again rises into a bill nearh- as high as Ccnachan, termi- nating all round towards the sea by formidable pre- cipices, Avhich are continued nearly to the south- eastern point of the bay. Here a rock, separated by a fissure from the island, displaj's the remains of an ancient work; whence it has derived the name Dune." Other insulated rocks, at greater distances, flank other parts of the island; the chief of which are called Soa and Borera. KILD ALTON. 19^ KILDONAN CASTLE. All the inlial)itants of St. Kilda live in a villag'e, on the sloping base of a steep ascent, about J of a mile from the landing-place. Their houses are mere huts, built of large stones, nearly flat in the roofs, miserably furnished, and kept in a very filthy con- dition. All the men are both tillers of the ground and catchers of birds; and the whole population subsist chiefly on the coarse produce of the soil and on sea-fowl eggs. The crops of oats and here are much better than might be expected on such high, bleak, insulated ground, but are often destroyed by terrific storms; and were it not that the landowner sends annually to the island a supply of meal, the inhabitants might be in risk of stai-ving. They are a diminutive but most hardy race, cherishing strong attachment to their natal spot and its characteristic pursuits; and they carry on their occupation of bird- catching among the cliffs in so perilous a manner as to live in a kind of constant romance, and at the same time so successfully as to obtain from it enough of feathers and fowls wherewith to purchase all the sum of small articles they require by impoit. " The air here," says MaccuUoch, " is full of feathered animals, the sea is covered with them, the houses are ornamented by them, the ground is speckled by them like a flowery meadow in May. The town is paved with feathers, the very dunghills are made of feathers, the ploughed land seems as if it had been sown with feathers, and the inhabitants look as if they had been all tarred and feathei-ed, for their hair is full of feathers, and their clothes are covered with feathers." The rent is paid in the produce of the soil and of the cliflfs, — principally in sheep, butter, and wild- fowl. A kind of rude justice is maintained by a resident baron bailie. A churcli and a manse, both respectable buildings, are remarkable features of the village; but for a number of years past there has been no minister; neither is there any medical man. Yet St. Kilda had in former times no fewer than tliree chapels; and has been the scene of some re- markable religious imposture. Who the St. Kilda was from whom it takes name does not seem to be known. The language spoken is Gaelic. Popula- tion in 1861, 78. Houses, 20. KILDALLOIG. See Campbelton. KILDALTON, a parish in the Islay district of Argyleshire. It comprises the south-eastern part of the island of Islay, together with the adjacent islets, the chief of which are Texa, Cavrach, Inersay, the Ardelister islands, and those off the point of Ardmure. Its length north-eastward is 14 miles; and its breadth is about 6 miles. It contains the village of Port-Ellen; and its post-town i.s Bow- more. A sufficient general description of it is con- tained in our article on Islay. The whole of it be- longs to the Islay estate. There are remains of four old places of worship, and three ancient forts. Two of the forts appear to have been Danish; and tlie thiid was built by the Macdonalds, and was their last stronghold in Islay. There is a handsome light monumental tower, 80 feet high, erected by Mr. Campbell to the memory of his ladv. Popula- tion in 1831, 3,065; in 1861, 2,956. Houses, 468. Assessed property in 1860, £5,783. Thi.s parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby- tery of Islay and Jura, and synod of Argyle. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £25. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with about £20 fees. The parish church was built about 1824, and contains 450 sittings. There is a government church at Oa; which was constituted quoad sacra parochial, by the Court of Teinds, ii\ May 1849. There is a Free churcli of Kildalton and Oa; whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £133 13s. lid. There IT. are ten non-parochial schools, some of them ad- venture schools, and others supported by public bodies. KILDAVIE GLEN. See Southend. KILDEAN, the site of a ftimous bridge on the Forth, the spot where the English anny crossed to the fatal battle of Stirling, about half-a-mile above the present bridge of Stirling. Here probably stood one of those numerous cells or chapels which existed throughout Scotland before the Reformation, but of which the name alone has survived to the present day. KILDINGUIC. See Stroxsav. KILDONAN, a parish, containing the post-office village of Helmsdale, in the north-east of Suther- landshire. It is bounded by Caithness-shire, the German ocean, and the parishes of Loth, Clyne, Farr, and Reay. Its length east-south-eastward is about 25 miles; and its breadth varies from 4 to 16 miles. Neai-ly all its inland boundary-line is a mountain watershed. The strath of Helmsdfle, or the strath of Kildonan, as it is sometimes called, comprises the principal arable land. Into the head of this strath a number of minor straths mn down from the high grounds, giving to the whole parish a configuration somewhat resembling the form of a tree, of which Strath-Helmsdale forms the trunk, and the minor diverging straths the branches. Tlie general appearance is mountainous; but on the haughs. or low grounds, the soil is light, fertile, and productive of tolerable crops. The most elevated mountain, Bengrianmore, has an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet. In the upper part of the parish are several small lakes, all abounding with trout, and some of them with char. The principal of tlrese are Loclinacuen, Lochleamnaclavan, Lochbadanloch, and Lochinruar. Red deer, grouse, ptarmigan, and black-cocks, are plentiful on the moors. The dis- trict contains numerous Pictish castles or towers; and there are said to be three subterranean passages under the Helmsdale, from fortifications on one side to fortifications on the opposite side of the river. The parish is subject to inundations from the sud- den risings of the river, and has been occasion- ally inundated by water-spouts. By the introduc- tion of sheep-farming between 1811 and 1831, the great bulk of the population, which amounted in the former of these years to 1,574, was removed tc the coast district, which then belonged to the par- ish of Loth; but, by the annexion of that district to Kildonan previous to 1851, the balance of popula- tion became more than restored. Population in 1831, 257; in 1861, 2,132. Houses, 374. Assessed property in 1860. £4,763. This parish is in the presbytery of Dornoch, and synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the Duke of Sutherland. Stipend, £158 5s. 2d.; glebe, £40. Schoolmaster's salary, £50. The parish church is a recent erection, situated at Helms- dale, There is likewise a Free church at Helms- dale: attendance, 900 ; sum raised in 1865, £242 5s. 2d. There is also a Free clmrch preaching station of Kildonan: sum raised in 1865, £31. There are three public schools in Helmsdale, and several private schools in other places. The churcli of Kildonan, previous to the Reformation, belonged to the abbot of Scone. KILDONAN CASTLE, an old square tower, at the south-eastern extremity of the island of Arran. It crowns a precipitous sea-cliff, nearly opposite the island of Pladda. It was originally the residence of a branch of the clan Micdonald, but seems to have served mainly as one of a line of watch-towers, ex- tending along tlie margin of the frith of Clyde. Around it is a comparatively extensive plain, called N KILDRL^DIY. 194 KILFIXAK. the plain of Kildonan, and traversed by the glen of Aiichinchew. KILDKUMMY, a parish in the district of Alford, Aberdeenshire. Its post-office station is Mossat, situated on Mossat- water, -which forms the eastern boundaiy south-eastward to tlic Don. The parish is bounded by Aucliindoir, Tullynesslc, Alford, Leochel-Cuslmie, Towie, and Cabrach. Its lengtli south-soutli-eastward is 7 miles; and its greatest breadth is 4 miles. It is situated on the Don, about 20 miles from its som-ces; and is surrounded on all sides by hills, but comprises a level valley, between 2 and 3 miles square, with a narrow strip stretch- ing between the north side of Auchindoir and the mountains, in an easterly direction, for 3 or 4 miles, " suggesting by its form, to a fanciful imagina- tion," — such as'tliat of the author of the Old Statisti- cal Account of it himself, it would appear, — " the idea of the pisteboard kite wliich Dr. Franklin first raised into the thunder-cloud." The soil is for the most part a rich deep gravelly loam, supposed to be amongst the most fertile in the county, and well cultivated. The hills around afford excellent pas- turage. There are plantations of forest and fir trees at Clova, Brnx, &c. ; and a considerable extent of natural birch-wood covers a bank overhanging a rivulet winding near Kildrummy castle. There are four landowners. The real rental is about £l,oOO. Tlie mansions arc Clova-house and a cottage in the Elizabethan style in the immediate vicinity of the c-istle. Population in 1831, 678; in 1861, 590. Houses, 108. Assessed property in 1860, £3,351. Kildrummy castle stands on an eminence in the south-west of the parish, about a mile from the Don. That river's basin is here dotted with knolls, some of whicli are covered with wood; while on every side, lofty mountains form such a barrier that the eye can discover no passage out of the stratli. Two Binall deep ravines flank the eminence on which the castle stands, and rendered the place naturally strong. The original castle, it is said, consisted only of one great circular tower, five stories high, the foundation of which alone now remains; but the work was early extended into a system of seven towers, of different form and magnitude, with inter- mediate buildings, all arranged on an irregular pentagonal outline, with enclosed court, and oc- cupying a space of about a Scotch acre; at the same time having attached outer fortifications, occupying an additional space of about two Scotch acres. The chapel, situated in the middle of one of the sides, is supposed to have been occupied as a magazine of forage during a great siege by the forces of Edward I. in the year 1306; and it is said that the besiegers despaired of success until a piece of red-hot iron, thrown through one of the windows of the chapel into the forage, occasioned such distraction by the conflagration, that the castle was won by surprise and storm. This castle at an early period was the property of the royal family. David, the brother of William the Lion, and grandson of David I., was at the same time Earl of Huntington in England, andofGarioch in Scotland; and Kildrummy castle was then the capital mansion of Garioch. With the daughter of David, it went to the family of Bruce; and from them, with the sister of Eooert I., to the family of ilarr, when it became the capital of Marr, as well as of Garioch; and thenceforth till it be- came a final ruin in the time of Cromwell's wars, it partook largely in the hot events and changing for- tunes of the house of Marr. Kildrummy parish is in the presbytery of Alford, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £159; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's salary, 1'50 Os. Od., a share in the Dick bequest, and aljout £11 or £12 fees. The parish church is situated in the south-east of the parish, contiguous to the Don, and has an attendance of about 250. The name Kildrummy signifies "the little burial mount," and probably alludes to the site of the castle. The Kildrummy oat is well known in many parts of Scotland as a light thin oat, v.ith abundance of straw, ripening comparatively early, and very suit- able to high situations. KILFINAN, a parish, containing a post-office station of its own name, in Cowal, Argyleshire. It is bounded by Stralachan, Kilmodan, Loch Eiddon, the West Kyles of Bute, and Loch-Fyne. Its length southward is about 17 miles; and its breadth, in general, is from 3 to 6 miles, but contracts at the south end to the narrow peninsula terminating in the headland of Ardlamont. The surface, for tiie most part, is verj' rugged; yet the hills, though numerous, are not remarkable for lieight. The highest ground is on the boundary with Kilmodan, and commands splendid views of the Kyles of Bute, the lower reaches of Loch-Fyne. and the lower parts of Knapdale across to the Hebrides.' The southern division is called Kerriflf or Kerry, which is from .-i Gaelic word which signifies a quarter or fourth-part of any thing. As it is by far the most extensive division, and the parish church is within it, the whole parish often goes by the name of Kerr)-. The northern division is called Otter, which is also a Gaelic word, descriptive of a shallow place over which runs a gentle current. This division of the parish is so called from a beautiful sand bank, which juts out into Loch-Fyne, in a serpentine form, near the seat of Campbell of Ballimore. Tiiis bank is ],S00 yards looir, from water-mark to its remotest extremity at low water, and forms, with the land on the south side, an oblique, and on the north an obtuse angle. In time of spring-tides, it is entirely covered at high-water; but about three hours after the turn of the tide, the whole appears to within a few yards of its extremity. C>n the north side of the bank the water is very deep; on the south side — wheie, according to conjecture, the surface has been peeled off by the united force of storms and a strong current — it is very shallow, and ebbs a great way out in spring-tides. There are several small lakes, which abound with trout; and the district is beautified by a considerable ex- tent of natural wood, ilica slate is the prevailing rock; but trap occurs in two or three places, and stratified limestone in the north. The soil is vari- ous ; for the most part, thin and sharp. A consider- able extent of moorland has recently been brought under the {lomini(m of the plough. The princijial landowners are Lamont of Lamont, Campbell of Ballimore, Rankin of Otter, Nicol of Ardmarnock. and M'AUister of Loup; the first of whom is pro- prietor of about one- third of the parish. The mansions are Ardlamont-house, Ballimore-house, Otter-house, and Arduiarnock-house. There are two corn -mills and a gunpowder mnnufactory. About 65 boats are employed in the herring fishing of Loch-Fyne. Ample communication -with the Clyde is enjoved bv means of the Loch - Fvne steamers. Population in 1831, 2,004; in 1861. 1,891. Houses, 377. Assessed prppertv in It^GO, £5,ir)0. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunoon, and svnod of Argyle. Patron, Lamont of Lamont. Stipend, about £221 ; glebe, £8. The parish church was rebuilt in 1759, and contains 450 sittings. There is an accommodation churcli, built 20 years ago, with 400 sittings. 'ITiere is a Free church, with 330 sittings; and the amount raised in connexion with it ill 1805 was £230 r2s. 8id. There area prifi- KILFINICHEN. 195 IvILLAEEOW cipal parochial school, with a salary of £40 Os. Od., together with considerable other emoluments, and two subordinate parochial schools. %\-ith each a salary of £3. There are also three non-parochial schools. KILFINICHEN and KILVICEUEN, a parish in the Mull district of* Argyleshire. It comprises the islands of lona, Eorsa, and Inchkenneth, several small contiguous islets, and the soutli-wcstern part of the island of Mall; and it contains the post-otfice villages of lona and Bonessan. Its boundaries ■within Mull are Loch-na-Iveal, separating it from Kilninian, and a mountain watershed, separating it from Torosay; and its boundary every wliere else is the ocean. Its length, within Mull, or exclusive of the islands, and east-north-eastsvard, is about 22 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 12 miles. The principal islands are separately described; and the genei-al features of the main body, also, will be indicated in the article on Mull. Tiie main body is intersected 8 miles east-north-eastward from the west by an arm of the sea, called Loch-Scridain; and is divided into the three districts of Koss, Bro- lass, and Ardmeanach. The districts of Boss and Brolass are nearly of equal extent, and separated iVom each other by a ridge of hills of no great height. They stretch in a line from the sound of lona to tlic boundary with Torosay, 22 miles, which, as already mentioned, is the greatest length of tlie main body of the parish. Their breadth is from 3 to 6 miles. Ardmeanach joins Brolass at the head of Loch- Scridain, and is about 12 miles in length, and from 3 to 6 miles in breadth. The parisli, in general, presents a very barren aspect. Part of it is flat, but the greater part of it is hilh*, and only calcu- lated for grazing. Ross is flat, except where it marches with Brolass; and the greater part of tlie surface is moss and heath. Brolass has a northern exposure, rising in a gentle ascent from Loch- Scridain. The soil is light and dry, and the greater part of the surface consists of heath and rocks. Ardmeanach faces the south, rising to a considei-- able height fi'om Loch-Scridain. Its soil and sur- face are similar to Brolass. A part of this district, called Gribun, presents some good arable land. The only mountains in the parish are those along tlie boundary with Torosay; the chief of which is the monarch height of Bexmore: see that article. There are three lakes in Boss; the largest of them not above IJ mile in length, and about J a mile in breadtli. In times of rain a thousand streams fall down the rocks of Burg, and the rocks at Inimore and Carsaig. These rocks being in some places perpendicular, and in all places nearly so, and some hundreds of feet in height, the streams rushing down them form very magnificent cascades; and when a high wind blows against them, the water is raised up in columns like smoke to the skies. The shores of the parisli may be called bold and rocky throughout almost their whole ex- tent. Upon the south side there is only one creek ill Koss, called Portuisgen, where a vessel of about 30 tons may anchor, but not in safety if the weather be stormy. Upon the Ross side of the sound of lona there are two creeks, — one called the Barachan, and the other Polltarve, or the Bull-pond, — where vessels of considerable burden may anchor in safety, with proper pilots. Loch-Lahich, about 3 miles east of the sound of lona, runs two miles into Ross, and is one of tiie safest anchorages about the island of Mull. A small arm of it running west, and called Loch-Coal, is too shallow for any vessel to anchor in. The whole of Loch-Scridain may be called a road; but the best anchoring-grounds in it are at Kilfinichen church on its north side, and at tlie Narrows at its head, where vessels may ride in safety from all storms. Brown coal occurs in sev- eral places, and has drawn much attention. Tiiere are eight principal landowners; but the Dulse of Argyle alone owns considerably more than one half of the valued rental. The mansions are Kilfinichen- house, Pennycross-house, and the house of Inch- kenneth. The chief antiquities are small round watchtowers, of the period of the Norsemen, and a number of standing stones. Population in 1831, 3,819; in 1861. 2,518. Houses, 487. Assessed pro- perty in ]8d0, £5,150. This parish is in the presbytery of Mull, and synod of Argyle. Patron, the' Duke of Argyle. Stipend, £180 10s. 3d. ; glebe, £15. There are two parochial churches, the one on the southern border of Ardmeanach, the other at I'onessan in Ross, both built in 1804 and repaired in 1828, the former con- taining about 300 sittings, the latter about 350. The island of lona and part of the district of Ross have separate ecclesiastical provision as a quoad sacra parish. See Iona. There is a Free church preaciiing station in Kilfinichen ; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £15 4s. 6d. There is also a Free cluuch in lona. There is a small Baptist meeting-house in Kilviceueii. There are two parochial schools, with salaries of respectively £35 and £25; and there are seven non-paro- chial schools, — most of them supported by public bodies. KILFINNAN. See Kii.fixax. KILGOUR. See Falkland. KILGRASTON. See Dunbaknib. KILKADZOW. See Caislukl. KILKERRAN. See Daillt. KILKIVAN. See Cami'Beltox. KILL-. See Kil-. KILL, or CoYL, (The). See Coyl. KILLACHON AN. See Fokting al. KILLALLAN. See Houston. KILLANTRINGAN BAY. See Portpatkick. KILLARROW, a parish comprising the central and northern parts of the island of Islay in Argyle- shire. It extends from Laggan Bay on the east side of Lochindaal to the northern extremity of the island; and contains the post-town of Bowmore. the village of Bridgend, and the post-office village and small sea-port of Port-Askaig. Its length northward is about 15 miles; and its breadth is a1)fiut 8 miles. A sufticient general description of it is contained in our article on Islay. It all belongs to the Islay estate, and contains the mansion of Islay-house. The real rental of it in 1860 was £5,611; and the value of assessed property, £6,609 8s. 8d. Population in 1831, 4,898; in 1861, 3,969. Houses, 746. This parish is in the presbytery of Islay and Jura, and svnod of Argyle. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. Sd.; "glehe, £10. The parisli church was built in 1767, and enlarged in 1828, and contains 831 sittings; and it is situated at the town of Bowmore, — from which circumstance the parish is often popularly called Bowmore. The present parish comjjrehemls the ancient parishes of Killar- row and Kilmeny; but the latter, which is the eastern district, and had been provided with a government church, was created into a quoad sacra parish, by the Court of Teinds, in May 1849. There is a Free' church of Kilarrow and Kilmeny, with an attendance of about 300; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £95 Is. Gd. There are in the parish a small Independent chapel and a small Baptist meeting-lionse. There are a parochial school in Bowmore, witli £35 of salary, .mid about £25 fees, and a parliamentary school in Kil- meny, with £35 of salary. There are also three KILLEAN. IDG KILLEARN. other scliools, variously supported by salary or en- downicnt, and several adventiU'e schools, most of them of a temporary cliaracter. KILLEAN, a beautiful secluded vale on the river Foyers, in Inverness-shire. It is encompassed on all sides by steep mountains; l)ut at the north end there is a small lake about Ih mile in length, and half-a-mile in breadth, from which the river sweeps to the northward, through richly birch-clad hills. The remainder of the glen is a perfectly level tiact. of the same width with tlie lake, and about 2J miles in length, covered with rich herbage, and traversed by a small meandering river which flows into the lake. See Foyers. KII.LEAN AND KILCHENZIE, an united parish, containing the post-o(Hce village of Tayinloan, in Kintyre, Argyleshire. It occupies the west side of the peninsula, Killean on the north and Kilcbenzie on the south, from a point opposite the north end of the island of Gigha to a point within 4 miles of the burgh of Campbelton. Its length is 18 miles; and its breadth is about 4 miles. Kunahaorine point in tlie north is a narrow n(;ek of mossy land pro- jecting about a mile into the sen. The coast south- ward of this is an alternation of small sandy bays and low rocky headlands, till, toward the southern extremity, it first admits the bay of Bealochintie, about 2 miles in circuit, and then becomes coni- pai'atively bold and rugged. A narrow stripe of low alluvial land everywhere lies along the coast. Tlie surface inward gradually rises from that stripe to an upland watershed along the eastern boundary, diversified by tumulations, and intersected by three naiTow glens. The skirts of the hills, occasionally to the extent of half-a-mile, are everywhere culti- vated ; but the upper parts are prevailingly heathy, and altogether pastoral or waste. The lieight of the summit line is generally about 700 or 800 feet above sea-level, but rises in Benantuirc. at the head of Rarr glen, to 2,170 feet. There are nine principal landowners; and the Duke of Argyle is the most extensive. The real rental in 1860 wns £10,183; the value of assessed property, £10,558. There are in the parish several Danish i'orts, some rude obelisks, and the lemains of a vitrified tower. One of the obelisks measuies 16 feet above ground, and is 4 feet broad and 2i thick. The parish is tra- versed lengthwise by the west road from 'i'arbet to Campbelton. Population in 1831, 2,866; in 1861, 1,890. Houses, 320. This parish is in the presbytery of Kintyre, and synod of Argyle. Patron, tiie Duke of Argyle. Stipend, £178 9s.; glebe, £10. There are two churches, — one in Killean, and the other in Kil- clienzie, in which service is performed alternately. There is a Free church in Killean; and tlie sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £133 Is. 9d. There are two parochial schools, with salaries of respectively £35 -and £20, three schools sup- ported by jiublic bodies, and several private or sub- scription schools. An annual fair is held in the parish, but the chief business done in it is tlie hiring of sei-vants for the harvest. KILLEARN, a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, in the west of Stirlingshire. It is bounded by Dumbartonshire, and by the par- ishen of Drymen, Balfron, Fintry, and Strathblane. Its length westward is neariy 7 miles, and its breadth, for the most part, does not exceed 3| miles, but suddenly expands by a southerly projection at the west end to neariy 7 "miles. The river Endrick, for about 8 miles, traces the northern and the west- era boundary ; the Blaiie. coming in from Strathblane, Horn's 2 miles north-westward to a confluence with the Endrick, at the point where the latter deflects into Drymen ; and several streamlets flow into these rivers from the intei'ior. The parochial surface con- sists of beautiful valley along the Endrick and the Blane, and of picturesque flanking portions of the Lennox hills. The lowest part of the valley ground has an elevation of about 40 feet above the level of the sea ; the highest part of tlie arable land, with one small exception,' about 500 feet; and the highest summit of the hills, about 1,200 feet. The general landscape exhibits exquisite blendings of lowland and upland, of park and pasture, of wood and water; and liotli the courses of the streams and the glens among the hills disclose some fine close scenes. On Endrick-water, where it traces the western boundary, is the Pot of Gartness, a deep linn shaped like a caldron, into which the river makes a tumbling descent over a rock of tiiree or four times alternateil precipice and ledge. On the estate of Croy, south of the Blane, and on the western verge of the parish, are two attractive objects, Dualt glen, and the waterfall of Ashdow. The sides of the glen are very steep, and, for a long course, exhibit a great variet)- of trees and shrubs grouped in almost eveiy conceivable form ; and they are at last connecteil by a breastwork of freestone rock, which rises per- pendicularly to the height of 60 feet at their end, over which the rivulet Dualt makes an unbroken leap. Half-a-mile from this place is a narrow, winding, and remarkably picturesque ravine, about 70 feet deep, through which the rivulet Carnock has worn a passage. The overhanging rocky banks are wild beyond desc-ri|)tion, nearly meeting in some places at the top, widening below into beautiful curvatures, and everywhere romantically adorned witli wood. The rocks of the low grounds of the parish belong to the old red sandstone formation ; and those of the bills are eruptive. Sandstone is quarried in several places for building, and in one ))lace for an inferior kind of millstones. The soil of the arable lands is principally argillaceous or loamy. The total area under the plough is about 7.000 acres ; in hill pasture, 8,860 acres; and under planted wool, 1,140 acres. There are eleven prin- cipal landowners. The real rental in 1841 wns £6,900; the estimated value of raw produce, in the same year, was £18,008 ; and the value of assessed property in 1860 was £7,4<)^*. The greater part of the paiish anciently belonged to the family of Montrose; and the old mansion ol' Killearn, built in 1688, and situated a little south of the village of Killearn, was a seat of theirs. The modern estate of Killearn was purchased in 1814 by John Blackburn, Esq., of Jamaica, who afteiTvards built an elegant mansion on the Blane. (Jne of the most extensive estates is Carbeth ; on which a showy castellated mansion was erected in 1840. The other chief mansions are Ballikinrain, Boquhan, and Moss. On the estate of Balglass, in the north-east corner of the parish, is an antiquated castle, or large dwelling-house, said to have anciently been well-fortified, and to have, on one occasion, offered Sir ^Villiam Wallace a sale retreat from danger. A small farm-house on the estate of Moss, part of which with a thatched roof stood till 1812, was the birth-place of the famous George Buchanan. In the village of Killearn, and com- manding an extensive prospect, stands a monument to his memory, erected by the gentlemen of the parish and neighbourhood in 1788. It is a well-pro- portioned obelisk, 19 feet square at the base, 1U3 feet high, having a cavity which diminishes from .6 feet square at the ground to a point at the height of 54 feet, whence a Nonva\- pole is continued to (he top. At Blairessan Spout- head, a little north of the village, tradition reports a sanguinary battle to have KILLEARNAN. 197 KILLIECRANKIE. been fought between the Romans and the Scots. So late as 1743, the parish was subjected to the in- cursions of Highland freebooters, and paid exactions of black mail. But only 49 years later it partook so largely in the effects of the social revolution which passed over Scotland, as to become the seat of a cotton- mill and of a printfield. The mill, indeed, was burnt in 1806, and never rebuilt ; the printfield also was, about the same time, given up; but a small woollen factory continues to be in operation. The parish is traversed by the south road from Stirling to Dumbarton, and will be largely benefited by the opening of the Forth and Clyde railway. Tlie village of Killearn stands on the road from Balfron to Glasgow, midway between the Endrick and the Blane, 2^ miles south of Balfron, 16J north- north-west of Glasgow, and 20 south-west of Stir- ling. Population of the village, about 400. Popula- tion of the parish in 1831, 1,206; in 1861, 1,171. Houses, 220. This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Patron, the Duke of Montrose, Stipend, £152 4s. 9d. ; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's salary, £46, 10s. fees, and £14 otlier emoluments. The parish church was built in 1826, and contains 50O sittings. Tliere is a Free church of Killearn and Balfron; and the sum raised in con- nexion with it in 1865 was £162 4s. 7d. Tliere are three private schools. The ancient church of Killearn was erected in 1429 into a prebend of the cathedral of Glasgow, and was thenceforth till the Keformation served by a vicai'. KILLEARNADALE. See Jura. KILLEARNAN, a parish on the south-east border of Ross-shire. Its post-town is Inverness, separated from its east end by little more than Kessock ferry. It is bounded on the south by the Beauly frith, and on other sides by the parishes of Urray, Urquhart, and Kilmuir- Wester. Its length eastward is 5 miles; and its greatest breadth is from 2 to 3 miles. Its shore is sandy and clayish, without any bays or headlands; and its interior rises gradually to the summit of the Millbuy. It is all comprised in the two estates of Redcastle and Kilcoy ; and it contains 2,453 imperial acres of arable land, 2,533 of wood- land, and 1,760 of pasture. The prevailing rock is the old red sandstone; and the quality of the soil is various. The yearly value of raw produce was re- cently estimated to amount to £7,632. Assessed property in 1860 was £485. There were for- merly two castellated mansions on the two estates, and that of Redcastle has been modernized in the interior, and is still habitable, but that of Kilcoy is a ruin. There is on each of the estates a grain mill. The parish is traversed by the great north road from Kessock ferry. Population in 1831, 1,479; in 1861, 1,494. Houses, 303. This parish is in the presbytery of Chanonry, and synod of Ross. Patron, the Marchioness of Staf- ford. Stipend, £199 16s. 7d.; glebe, £9. School- master's salary, £35. The parisli church is an old cruciform structure, repeatedly altered and repaired, of large capacity, but very uncomfortable. There is a Free church, with a very large attendance; and its receipts in 1S65 amounted to £499 6s. 8d. There are two non-parochial schools. Two fairs are held in the parish in March and July. KILLELLAN. See Houston. KILLERMONT. See Kilpatrick (New). KILLEVIN. See Glassary. KILLIECRANKIE, a celebrated mountain-pass on the river Garry, 1^ mile above the point of its confluence with the Tummel, 15 miles north-north- west of the town of Dunkeld, and on the western verge of the parish of Moulin, in the district of Athole, Perthshire. The dark lofty hills which rail abruptly or precipitously down on both sides of the narrow vale of the Garry, approach here so close that the shadow of the one range flings a perpetual night over the face of the. other. From the present road, which is carried along a sloping part of the ridge on the left side of the river, the traveller looks up, on the one hand, to the bare acclivitous ascent of the hills toward tlieir summit, and listens, on the other, to the tumultuous roar of the Garry storming its angiy way along the bottom of the deep gorge below. But the place is so tufted with birch-trees clinging to the clefts of the rocks, that the river is, in most places, invisible, and makes its presence known only by its deafening noise; and, when it does come into view, it appears rolling headlong over a preci- pice, lashing the waters of a deep pool into a little sea of foam, and expending its energies in throwing up amid the romance around it a scene of awful magnificence. The pass is between two and three miles in length, and, previous to the era of laying open the Highlands by the construction of military roads, was the most wild and perilous of all the in- lets to that vast fortress of mountains, or to any of its interior retreats. A footpath, hanging over a tremendous precipice, and threatening destruction to the pedestrian as the result of the least false step, was then the only facility which it oflered; but now an excellent road is carried along ' in such safety as to occasion no uneasy emotion to persons acquainted witli even the turnpikes of Wales and of the Southern Highlands of Scotland, and sends off, at the south end of the defile, another road, by a picturesque arch across the Garry, to run up the glen of the Tummel. On some rough ground on the left bank of the river, at the north-western extremity of this pass, was fought, on the 27th July, 1689, the celebrat- ed battle of Killiecrankie. General Mackay, the Covenanters' leader, marclied through the pass on the morning of that day, at the head of 4,500 men, and debouched on the haugh at its head. Viscount Dundee, " the bloody Clavers," who had long been notorious as the chief leader of the Jacobites, was at Blair castle, with 2,000 Highlanders and 500 Irish, when Mackay approached the pass; and, in- stead of descending right down to meet the foe, he went up the water of Tilt, fetched a compass round the hill of Lude, and made his appearance in battle order on the liill side about the position of the house of Urrard. Mackay immediately pushed forward his main body to a terrace midway between his antagonist and the haugh, forming them there in battle-line three deep, with his cavalry in the rear, and leaving his baggage in the glen. The two armies observed each other in silence till late in the afternoon, when, after a small preliminary skirmish, and only about half an hour before sunset, Dundee's army broke simultaneously into motion, and marched slowly down the hill. The Highlanders, who stript themselves to their shirts and doublets, and whose appearance resembled more a body of wild savages than a race of civilized men, advanced, according to their usual practice, with their bodies bent forward, so as to present as small a surface as possible to the fire of the enemy, the upper part of their bodies be- ing covered by their targets. To discourage the Highlanders in their advance by keeping up a con- tinual fire, Mackay had given instructions to his officers commanding battalions, to commence firing- by platoons, at the distance of a hundred paces; but this order was not attended to. The Highlanders having come close up, halted for a moment, and having levelled and discharged their pistols, which did little execution, they set up a loud shout and KTLLIECRANKIE. 198 KILLIN. rushed in upon the enemy sword in hand, before tliey had time to screw pn their bayonets to the end of their muskets. The shock was too impetu- ous to be long resisted by men who, according to their own general, •' behaved, with the exception of Hasting's and Leven's regiments, like the vilest cowards in nature." But even had these men been brave, their courage would not have availed them, as their arms were insufficient to parry off the tre- mendous strokes of the axes, and the broad and double-edged swords of the Highlanders, wjio, with a single blow, either felled their oppoiients to the cartii or struck off a member from their bodies, and at once disabled them. At the same time with this overtliro',v of Mackay-s infantry, and immediately under his own eye, there occurred a crash upon his artiller\' and his cavalry. At tliis critical moment Mackay, wlio was instantly surrounded by a crowd of Higiilandcrs, anxious to disentangle his cavalry, so as to enable him to get tiieni forward, called aloud to them to follow him, and putting spurs to his horse gallojjcd tiirough the enemy; but, with the exception of one servant, whose horse was shot under him, not a single horseman attempted to follow. When he had gone sufficiently far to be out of the reach of immediate danger, he turned round to observe the state of matters; and to his infinite surprise he found that both armies had dis- appeared. To use his own expression, "in the twinkling of an eye in a manner," his own men as well as tiie enemy were out of sight, having gone down pell-mell "to the river where his baggage stood. Hence has Professor Ayton made the victors say, — " Like a tempest clown tlie rulg-cs Swept the huiTicaiie of steel, Kose tlie slogan of Macdonald, Flash'd the broadswonl of Locliicll Vainly sped the withering volley 'Jlongst the foremost of our biind; 0^1 we poured until we met them, Foot to foot, and hand to liand. Horse and man went down like driftwood. When the Hoods are hhick at Yule; And their carcasses are whirling III tlie Garry's deepest pool. Horse and man went down before us ; Living foe there tarried none On the field of Killiecrankie When that stubborn fight was done." Mackay liastened across the river, collected as many fugitives as he could, led them pre- cipitately over the hills, and succeeded, after a perilous retreat, in conducting about 400 of them to Stirling. But liad not his baggage at the foot of the battle-field arrested the attention of most of the victors, and had not the ground over which he re- treated been impracticable for pursuing horsemen, he might not have been able to lead away from the scene of his defeat scarcely a man. If the im- portance of a victory is to be reckoned by the com- parative numbers of the slain, and the brilliant achievements of the victors, the battle of Killie- crankie may well stand high in the list of military exploits. Considering the shortness of the combat, the loss on the part of Mackay was prodigious. No fewer than 2.000 of his men fell under the swords and axes of Dundee's Highlanders, and about 500 were made prisoners. But as the importance of a victory, however splendid in itself, or distinguished by acts of individual prowess, can be appreciated only by its results, the battle of Killiecrankie, in- stead of being advantageous to the cause of King James, was, by the death of Dundee, the precursor of its ruin. After he had charged at the head of his horse, and driven the enemy from their cannon, he was about to proceed up the hill to bring down Sir Donald Macdonald's regiment, which appeared rather tardy in its motions, when he receired a nuisket-shot in his right side, immediately below his armour. He attempted to ride a little, but was unable, and fell from his horse mortally wounded, and almost immediately expired. He and his friend I'itcur, who also fell in the engagement, were in- terred in the church of Blair- At h&le. KI LLHiCUM 1 NG. .See A .xo u.stus (Fout). KILLIEiniAUGHT, a small hay iji the parish of Eyemouth, about a mile north-west of the town of Eyemouth, in Iterwickshire. KILLIESMONT. See KErrn. KILLIGRAY. See Calligi:ay. KHjLIX, a parish, containing the post-office villages of Killin and Tyndrum, also the village ut Clifton, in the district of Breatlalbane, Peribshiie. It consists of two detached sections and a large main body. One of the detached sections, measur- ing 3^ miles by 4, stretches southward from Loch- Tay at the distance of 3J miles from the eastern extremity of the main body; and is bounded by portions of Kcnmore, and by Comrie. This tract partakes strictly of the beautiful and romantic character of the parts of Kcnmore which contribute to form the basin of Loch-Tay; possessing at the edge of the lake a broad belt of gently rising arable ground, embellished with plantation, and rising up toward the southern boundary in grand mountain- ous elevations. See Kexmore. The other detached j)ortion, a square of IJ mile deep, lies on the north side of the river Lochy, 2^ miles north of the nearest point of the main body, is bounded by Eortingall, Kenmore, and a part of Weem, and par takes the general character of Glenloehy. The main body of the parish extends, in a stripe averag- ing about 7 miles in breadtli, from the head of Loch Tay to the boundary with Argyleshire, — a distance or extreme length of 22 miles. It is bounded on the north by detached parts of Kenmore and Weem; on the east by the main body of Kenmore, by Loch-Tay, and by a part of Weem; on the south by Comrie and Balquidder; and on the south-west, west, and north-west by Argyleshire. The district is strictly Highland, and takes its configuration mainly from the course of the chief head-water of the Tay. This stream — which rises on the extreme western bound- ary, bears for 8 miles the name of the Fillan, ex- pands for 3 miles into a series of lochleta which assume the general name of Loch-Dochart, and then runs 10§ miles farther under the name of Dochart river — bisects the district through nearly the mid- dle over its whole length, and gives it the aspect of a long glen, bearing the designation first of Strath- fillan, and ne?xt of Glen-Dochart, and flanked by lofty hills, covered with grass and heath, and ascending on both sides to a water-shedding line along the boundaries. But from a point 1^ mile south-west of the head of Loch-Dochart, a glen 4^ miles in length, and watered by the romantic, rock- strewn Falloch, descends south-westward toward the head of Loch-Lomond; and — with the exception of a brief pai-t at its lower end — this, with its flank- ing hills, and two or three tiny later glens, also lies within the district. See articles Strathfillan, DocHAKT, and Falloch. Over a distance of 3 miles above the confluence of the Lochy and the Dochart, just before the united stream enters Loch-Tay, the district includes likewise the glen of the foi-mer river; though here it has embosomed within it a small detached part of Kenmore, stretching from the side of the Lochy to near the Dochart. Numer- ous rills or mountain-torrents, all, from the nature of the ground, brief in length, rise near the northern and southern boundaries, and run down to swell the KILLIN. 199 KILMADAN. bisecting central strecam. High hills, few or none of them rocky, and almost all available for pastur- age, extend in ridges on nearly all the boundaries except the eastern, and roll down in congeries or in insulated heights as they approach the central glen. The highest is the well-know Eenmore, of a fine conical form, with an elevation of 3,903 feet above the level of the sea. It ascends from the pass be- tween Glendochart and Strathfillan, on the south side of Locli-Dochart, and was, in former times, a deer-forest, but is now occupied as a sheep- walk. The soil of the arable lands, at the west end of Loch-Tay, and in the bottoms of Glenlochy and Glendochart, where it suffers from frequent over- riowings of the rivers, is wet and marshy; but, in other parts it is in general light and dry, and, in iavourable seasons, abundantly fertile. The bottoms of the valleys are disposed chiefly in meadows and arable grounds; the hills rise with a genile slope, and are cultivated and inhabited to a con- siderable height; and the summits of the hills and tiie heights of the mountains, in places whei-e grass gives place to rank heath, have been extensively improved into available sheep-walks. About 2,500 acres of the entire area are in tillage, about 1,000 under wood, and about 86,000 in pasture. The Marquis of Breadalbane owns more than one half of all the land; and the other heritors are Campbell of Glenfalloch, Campbell of Coninish, Place of Glenure, Macnaughton of !y an act of parliament which had buen obtained by the magistrates for improving the town, unspar- ingly removed nuisances, planned new streets, and speedily flung over the place a renovated, airy, and neat aspect. Yet the town is still remarkable for tJie utter disproportion of its breadth to its length, for the shortness, numerousness, and irregularity of the thoroughfares at its nucleus, and for the strag- gling and dispersed position of several of its outskirts. At the south end of the town, on the left bank of the river Irvine, comnuuiicating with Kilmarnock by a bridge which carries over the Ayr and Glas- gow turnpike, stands the suburb of Riccarton: which see. From the north end of the bridge, 7UU yards above the confluence of Kilmarnock water with the Irvine, a street, bearing the names succes- sively of Glencairn-street and King-street, runs due north, and in a straight line over a distance of 1,500 yards, or more than f of a mile, gradually approach- ing Kilmarnock water over 1,100 yards, running alongside of it for 320 yards, and then, as the river makes a sudden bend, passing over it, and opening into an irregular area, — the market-place or centre of the town. Nearly 400 yards from its southorn end, this street expands into Glencairn - square, from the sides of which East Shaw-street and West Shaw-street, each about 200 yards in length, run oft" at right angles with Glencairn-street respectively to the rivers Irvine and Kilmarnock. Two hundred yards north of Glencairn-square, two very brief streets go off eastward and westward, the former sending off at a short distance unedificed thorough- fares to Richarland brewery, situated on the Irvine, to Wellbeck-street, 320 yards eastward, and to a locality 120 yards to the north. Opposite the last of these points Glencairn-street sends ofl' Douglas- street 120 yards to Kilmarnock water. A little more than 400 yards farther north, the same street, or rather the continuation of it now bearing the name of King-street, sends off" a long zigzag but otherwise regular street-line 120 yards eastward, 120 southward, 320 south-eastward, and again 200 SDUtluvard to Irvine water, bearing as it approaches the river the name of Wellbeck-street. All the section of the town which consists of these streets, with the exception of the north end of King-street, is quite modern, and has a neat appearance, its houses presenting fronts of polished ashler, and a building material of fine freestone; yet it is desti- tute of that compactness wdiich is generally asso- ciated with the idea of a town, and exhibits mainly an elongated and slightly intersected street- line running down the peninsula formed by the two rivers, and a subtending zigzag street-line drawn across the peninsula. Portland- street, 380 yards long, Wellington-street 280, and Dean-street 450, are continuations nearly due northward of the Glen- cairn-street and King-street line, and, with these streets, make the extreme length of the town about 2,610 yards, or very nearly 1^- mile. The line, how- ever, from King-street northward is but partially edificed, and for some distance, is bending and rather narrow. Nowhere, too, is the town broader than 700 yards; and over a very considerable part of its length it has but a single street. From the north side of the central area, at a point eastward of the commencement of Portland- street, and slightlv radiating from that thoroughfare, High-street runs along 600 yards, till it is pent up by a small bend of the river. A brief street intersects it 150 yards from its south end, and sends off northward a thoroughfare parallel with Portland-street and High- street, and running between them. From the south side of the central area go off two brief thoroughfares respectively north-eastward and south-eastward, the latter leading down to the academy situated within a curve of the river. From the north side of the area also two streets debouch. The more southerly of these runs past the Laigh kirk 220 yards, to a point near Kilmarnock house, and the vicinity of the Kilmarnock and Troon railway, and forms the long- est side of a nearly pentagonal district of buildings which has five exterior streets, and two intersect- ing ones, all brief and more or less irregular, and on whose outskirts are the cattle-market and the gas-works. The town, as a whole, has a pleasing and airy as- pect, abounds in good and even elegant shops, ar.d exhibits a fair display of public buildings. At the north end of King-street is a very broad bridge over Kilmarnock water, which not only carries across a spacious roadway, but also bears aloft on its east side the town-house and the butcher-market. The town-house, built in 1805, is a neat structure of two stories, surmounted by a belfry; and contains a court-room and public offices. The Exchange build- ings, erected in 1814, are of pleasing architecture, and have a large hall, which serves both as a well- fumished news-room, and as a place of mercantile resort. Tlie principal inn erected by the merchants' society, is not a little ornamental to the town; and KILMARNOCK. 205 KILMARNOCK. tlic building opposite to it, onginally occupied by the Ayrshire banking company, is a very line edi- fice. The station-bouse of the Glasgow and South- western railway, a viaduct of 24 lofty arches by which that railway crosses the town, and especially the parts of that viaduct wbicli span Soulis-street, Tcirtland-street, and the river Irvine, are striking tVatnres. The corn exchange, erected in 186'i, is an interesting structure. The academy, two or three of tlie schools, the workhouse, and five bridges over Kilmarnock water, and one over the Irvine, if not elegant structures, are at least agreeable for their utility. Kilmarnock-house arrests attention and excites musing thoughts, from its having been tlie mansion whence the last E;irl of Kihnarnock issued to take part in the enterprise which cost him liis life and the forfeiture of his title and estates. The new court-house, near Kilmarnock-bouse, is an elegant structure erected in 1852. Shaw's monu- ment is a fine colossal statue by Fillans, erected in 185H at the junction of King-street and Portland- street, in honour of Sir James Shaw of London. Soulis' cross, which gives name to a quarter of the town, is a stone pillar 8 or 9 feet high, placed at the south entrance of the High church, and erected in memory of Lord Soulis, an English nobleman, who is said to have been killed on the spot in 1444. by an arrow from one of the family of Kilmarnock. As it was mouldering to pieces in the latter part of last century, the inhabitants re-erected it by sub- scription, and placed a small vane upon its top with the inscription, " L. Soulis, 1444." The Laigh kirk is remarkable for having spacious square staircases at the angles leading to the gal- leries, and still more so for the event which occa- sioned their peculiar conformation, as well as the re-edification of the entire structure. In 1801, while a crowded congregation were assembling on a Lord's day for public worship, the falling of a piece of plaster from the ceiling of the former church, excited a general and sudden fear in the massed wiio wei'e already seated in the galleries that the roof was about to come down, and prompted a uni- versal pell-mell rush to the stairs. A stream of persons who were in the act of ascending were met by the headlong torrent of the mass moving down- ward, precipitated to the bottom, and made the lowest stratum of a broad high pile of human beings vainly struggling to move off from the rush in the rear, and too numerous to be speedily extricated by the efforts of parties clearing the passages below. About 30 persons died from suffocation on the spot; and numbers more received serious and permanent damage to their health. The place of worship be- ing now condemned by the heritors, its successor, the present edifice, was constructed more on the principle of securing confidence in its strength and facilities, than with a view to contribute an archi- tectural decoration to the town. The High church aspires to be, in some degree, a counterpart of the very elegant church of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, at Charing-cross, London; and, though it wants the portico, that very important part of the original, and is destitute of many of the ornaments of its model, and sends aloft a tower of only 80 feet in height, and, in general, is much curtailed in its proportions, it will pass as a decidedly fine piece of ecclesiastical architecture, and has been regarded as the most successful production of the Scottish architect, Gibb. It.s roof, as to its interior ceiling, displays much taste, and is supported by two rows of ver}' Ijeauti- ful composite pillars. St. Marnock's church is a Gothic edifice, with an imposing front and a sump- tuous tflwer. The King-street United Presbyterian shurch Ims a fine tower and spire, and is a con- siiicuous and arresting object in the scenic group- ings of the town. The Independent chapel pos- sesses neatness in the exterior, and some novelty and pleasing arrangement in the interior. Other edifices in the town, whether civil or ecclesiastical, suggest ideas rather of direct adaptation to tlieii respective uses, than of accidental or ornate pro- perties. Kilmarnock is the well-known seat of very im- portant manufactures. Its advantages, as to posi- tion and facilities, are abundance of coal, the cir- cumjacency of a rich, agricultural district to supply it amply and cheaply with provisions, healthiness of climate, populousness of neighbourhood, and the current through it, or at its side, of two consider- able streams; and these are so rich as very fully to compensate its only disadvantage, the necessity of land-carriage over a distance of 6 or 7 miles to a port, and were speedily seen in much if not all, of their value by the clear eye of the improvement- spirit which, during last centuiy, peregrinated athwart Scotland. Though the incorporations of the town are of long standing — the bonnet-makers having been incorporated in 1G47, the skinnei's in 1(356. and the other bodies possessing documents which, while of later date, are ratifications of former grants — yet during many years and several gener- ations, the manulactures were very limited as to both variety and amount. ' Kilmarnock bonnets,' and ' Kilmarnock cowls,' — the former broad flat bonnets which were extensively wore in lieu of hats by the Lowland peasantry, and the latter thick striped nightcaps Avhicli many old men loved to wear by day as well as by night — were, for a long period, the only productions by which the town's manufactur- ing character was known or maintained. About 100 years ago, three or four individuals conducted the principal trade, buying serges and other woollen articles from private manufacturers, and exporting them to Holland. The demand for woollen goods afterwards increasing, a companj' was formed, and laid the foundation of the modern and hitherto uni- formly flourishing productiveness of the place, by the erection of a woollen factory. About the same time was introduced the trade for which Kilmar- nock, Ayr, and Irvine, continue to be noted, — the making of shoes and boots. Some fifteen 5'ears laefore the close of the century, spinning-jennies for cotton, and a carding and spinning machine for coar.'C wool, were erected. In 1791, when the Old Statistical Accoitnt of the parish was written, there were annually manufactured, as to value, £21,400 carpets, £21,216 shoes and boots, £15,500 leather, £6,500 printed calicoes, £3,700 snuft' and tobacco, £3,500 leather-gloves, £2,251 cotton-cloth, £2.000 cabinet-work, £1,200 milled caps and mitts, and £7,800 bonnets, coverlets, blankets, plaidings, serges, mancoes, saddlers' cloth, saddleiy, knit stockings, iron, and dyers'-work. Since that date the town has boldly and rapidly advanced in all the ancient departments of its manufacture, and has made very important additions in the articles of printed shawls, gauzes, and nmslins of the finest texture, and some small addition likewise in the department of silk fabrics. Almost a characteristic property of the town is boldness and blitbeness of enterprise, issuing uniformly in success, or, at worst, in encouragement. In 1824, at a time when mus- lin-weaving was the work of an ill-fed dradge, the manufacture of worsted printed shawls was intro- duced to the Greenholm printfield of this town, by an inventive and spirited calico-printer, Mr. "VA'illiam Hall, and, not onl}^ at the moment greatly relieved the muslin-weavers, by providing them with re- munerating employment, but aknost instantaneoufiiy KILMARNOCK. 20G KILMARNOCK. rfrew to 1)0 one of tlie most important manufactures of Kilmarnock. So early as from 31st May, 1830, to 1st June, 1831, only four years after its introduc- tion, it employecl about 1,200 weavers and 200 printers, and produced no fewer than 1,128,814 ehawls. aggregately worth about £200,000. In 1837, the annual aggregate value was estimated at £230,000. The making of carpets mny, amidst conflicting claims, be regarded as now the sta})le nianufacture of Kilmarnock. This has been brouglit to so great perfection as to secure the liberal premium from the trustees for the encouragement of manufactures in Scotland. Even 35 or 40 years ago, it rivalled that of Kidderminster in England, and had no competitor in Scotland; and about that time, or a little later, it was greatly improved by tlic meciianical inven- tions of Mr. Thomas Morton, a citizen who gives name to a locality in the vicinity of the gas-works. During the year 1830-1. upwards of 1,000 weavers were employed in pro, lacing Brussels, Venetian, and Scottish carpets and rugs, the quality and pat- terns of which were not surpassed by any in the country. Three chief classes of carpels are manu- factured, all of which are woven with harness, — Brussels carpets, of the kinds called "points" and " combers," — Wilton carpets, woven exactly like the former except that the brass wires are grooved, and that the rii) is cut open with a sharp knife after it has been fastened, — and Scotch carpets of three ciualities, 9 porters, lOA. and \3h. With the Wilton carpets Buckingliam palace wasfurnished. Another very beautiful fabric called Persians, is Avoven in the town for fire-screens, the weft being tied into perpendicular warps by tiie band, after the mannci- of making rugs. The yearly value of the carpet manufacture was estimated," in 1855, at £100,000. The total number of hand-looms in the town, in the various departments of woollen, cotton, and silk, was, in 1828, 1,150, and, in 1838, 1,892; but since the latter year the number has greatly decreased. The carpet factories have all, in recent years, been either built, rebuilt, or very much enlarged. Six mills, five of them on Kilmarnock water, and the sixth and largest on the Irvine, are employed principall}' in spinning woollen or worsted yarn for the carpet factories and bonnet-makers. The an- nual manufacture of bonnets, chiefly forage-caps and bonnets for the army, now exceeds 18.000 dozens in number, and amounts to about £12,000 in value. Tiie manufacture of boots and shoes was estimated, as to the annual worth of the produce, in 1837, at about £50,000, and the manufacture of leather at £45,000; and it is believed that these amounted to about the same in 1855. Mr. Thomas Morton, the same ingenious mechanist to whom the carpet manufacturers acknowledge so much obliga- tion, introduced the rather novel manufacture of telescopes. Calico printing, thougb not including calicoes themselves, has of late years reached the value of about £185,000 a-year. The principal articles are shawls and plaids; and the number of printers is above 600, and of hands old and young, nearly 1,400. Of miscellaneous manufactures, in- cluding linens, cottons, silks, hose, telescopes, ma- chinery, saddlery, hats, tobacco, and cantlles, the value of annual produce may range between £70,000 and £100,000. Tliere are also in the town, or con- nected^ with it, breweries, rope-works, and iron- foundries, and in the \-icinity four extensive nui-series. Weekly markets are hel'd on Tuesday and Friday. A grain market is held between 1 and 2 o'clock on every Friday. Fairs are held on the second Tues- day of May. on the last Thursday of July, and on the last Thursday of October. The principal inns are the George, the Black Bull, and the Turf. Tlie banking offices arc those of the Bank of Scotland, the Commercial, the Union, the Clydesd.ale, the Royal, and the National. There are a savings' hank, twenty-five insurance agencies, a gas company, a water company, a resei'voir company, a public read- ing-room, a ])ublic library, an athenreum, a me- chanics' institution, a philosophical institution, a fanners' club, a horticultural societ}', and a num- ber o^ philantlnopical and religious institutions. The gas company erected their woiks in 1823. on shares of £10; and their affairs are managed by a committee. A weekly newspaper, called the Kilmarnock Journal, is published in the tovn\ on Friday. Kihnarnock w;\s made a Imrgh-of-barony in 1591, by a charter of novo damzts in favour of Thomas, Lord Boyd, liolding of the Prince and Steward of Scotland. According to this and sub- sequent charters, ratified by a charter from the Crown in 1702, power was given to the inhabitants to act as in other free burghs-of-barony, and to thii magistrates to present annually a leet of five per- sons to the sui)erior, fi'om which he should clioose two bailies for the succeeding year. In 1700. the magistrates purchased from the superior the whole customs and common good of the buruh. After the passing of the act 3 and 4 WilHam IV., cap. 77, on the 9th August, 1831, an invitation was given by the magistrates and town-council to the burgesses to elect annually eight persons, each rated at £12 rent and upwards in the police books for their dwelling-houses, from among whom the council should choose by ballot four new councillors ; and no opposition being made by the superior, the in- vitation was acted on, and passed into a law. The governing body are a provost, four bailies, a treasurer, and fifteen councillors. The pi'operty of the burgh was valued to the Commissioners on municipal corporations at £3.675 5s. 9d. ; and the debts due to it stated at £989 16s. ll^d. The revenue during the year preceding their inquiry was £380 lis. 6^-d.; and the expenditure £256 14s. 9d. In 1839-40, the revenue was £644 18s. lOd.; and in 1864-5, it was £670 odds. The magistrates exercise the jurisdiction reserved by the jurisdiction act to burghs-of-barony then indepen- dent of the superior; they entertain civil causes to any pecuniary amount in the bailie- court, and are assisted by the town-cleik as assessor; they exer- cise, in the bailie-court, the functions of the dean- of-guild's jurisdiction; they exercise a criminal jurisdiction in cases of assault, but remit other cases to the sheriff; they bold in turn what is called the convenue court, which exercises a summary juris- diction, upon a verbal citation in cases not exceed- ing 6s. 8d. sterling, and proceeds by poinding and arrestment; and they appoint the town-oflicers, and five of the fifteen directors of the academy, with whom lies the appointment of the masters. The provost, the four bailies, the baron bailie, an I tlie town treasurer, are also ex-officio commissioners of police and act conjointly, in that capacity, with sixteen connnissioners chosen by the five ^vards of the burgh. A sberitf ordinary court is held on every Wednesda}'; a sheriff small-debt-court is held on every U'hursday; and a justice-of-peace court is held on every alternate Monday. Kilmarnock was constituted in 1833 a parliamentary burgh; it comprises, in that capacity, not only the town pro- perly so called, but also a suburban tract in the ])arish of Kiccarton ; and it unites with Dumbarton, Port-Glasgow, Kenfi-ew, and Kutherglen in sending a member to parliament. Constituency in ,1840, 630; in 1802, 710. Population of the nuiniciii;il KILMARNOCK. 207 KILMARONOCK. burgh, comprisinp: all the pcarts of the town within the parish of Kihnaniock, in 1841, 17,846; in 1851, 19.201. Houses; 1.374. Population of the pailia- nientaiy burgli in IBGl, 22,019. Houses, 1,842. Kilmarnock figures in the poems of Robert Burns, and is the place where the first edition of his foems was published, whicli realized to him £20. t figures also in published poems of considerable merit bj- other Ayrshire bards. Its suburb of llic- carton is intimately associated with tlie name and early exploits of Sir William Wallace, See IvicCAKTOX. Kilmarnock gave the title of Earl, in the peerage of Scotland, to the noble family of Boyd, descendants of Simon, brother of Walter, first Lord High Steward of Scotland. In 1661 William, 9th Lord Boyd, was created Earl of Kilmarnock. In 1745 William, the 4th Earl, took part in the re- bdlion under Prince Charles Edward, and on the 18th August, 1746, was beheaded, along with Lord Balmerino, on Tower-hill. The eldest of his three sons became, in light of his mother. Lady Ann Livingstone, Earl of Errol; and in 1831. his grand- son, William, Earl of Errol, was created Earl of Kilmarnock in tlie peerage of Great Britain. KILMARNOCK (New). See Fexwick. KILMARNOCK AND AYR RAILWAY. See Glasgow, Paisley, Kiljiarxock. and Ayi: Railway. KILMARNOCK AND CUMNOCK RAILWAY. See Glasgow axd South-western Railway. KILMARNOCK AND GLASGOW RAILWAY. See Glasgow, Kilmarnock, axd Ardrossax Rail- KILMARNOCK AND TROON RAILWAY, a railway direct from the Glasgow and South-western at the "town of Kilmarnock to the harbour of Troon. It proceeds through Dundonald parish, past the sea- bathing quarters of .Barassie, across the Glasgow and A3'r railway, and ou to the peninsula of Troon. It is the oldest railway in Scotland, having been completed in 1812 at the cost of upwards of £50,000, and intended chiefly for the transportation of coals and the importation of lime, slates, timber, and grain, together with tlie transit of general merchan- dise. An attempt was made so early as ISIG to work it by means of locomotives, but was soon abandoned. It has a double line of rails; and the elevation of its terminus at Kilmarnock is only 80 feet higher than that of its terminus at Troon. KILMARON. See Cui-au-Fife. KILMARONOCK, a parish near the centre of Dumbartonshire. Its west end is within 2 miles of Bonhill, and its east end within f of a mile of Drymen ; but its post-town i.? Dumbarton. It flanks nearly all the foot or south end of Loch- Lomond, and is elsewhere hounded hy Stirling- shire, and by the parishes of Dumbarton and Eon- liill. Its length west-south-westward is 7J miles ; and its breadth, for the most part, does not exceed 3 milea, but suddenly expands at the middle to 5 miles. The nver Endnck runs along the north- east boundaiy 5 miles in a direct line, and nearly double that distance along the sinuosities of its channel : it has a sluggish motion, — is navigable for flat-bottomed craft, — threads its mazy way along a large tract of level and very opulent land, — and occasionally comes down in such floods as convert some hundreds of acres into a lake isleted with clumps of trees. Gallangadd bum comes in on the extreme south, H mile from its source in the parish of Dumbarton, flows 2 miles northward into the in- terior, and then runs 3| miles eastward to the Endnck, forming, for 2f miles of that distance, the boundary-line with Stirlingshire. Two rills rise in the parish and run north-eastward, the one to Loch- Lomond, and the other to the Eiidrick. The plain on the Endrick is upwards of 3,000 acres in extent; and is carpeted with a deep rich loam, very favour- able for either meadow-ground or tillage. Tiie southern projection of the parish is moorish upland, sending up summits about 1,000 feet above sea- level; but it contains some excellent limestone, has patches of arable ground, and affords considerable pasturage. Where it is ploughed by Gallangadd burn, it sinks into a fine glen, and is beautified by a rather large and fine waterfall on the stream. North of this hilly district, at If mile's distance, rises slovcly, on the south-east, from the bosom of an opulent plain, the green and wooded hill of Duii- cruin, to the height of about 450 feet; and pin- nacling aloft into nearly a pointed summit, it breaks abruptly down on the Avest and noith sides into the plain. This hill occupies a central position in the parish, forms a con.spicuous and romantic feature in its landscape, and commands from its summit fine groupings of the magnificent scenery of the county. On the extreme west, running from Bal- loch in the neighbouring parish of Bonhill, along the shore of Loch-Lomond to Ross, is a hilly ridge, called Mount-Misery, 2J miles long, and about Ig broad. At the nortli end, and on its declivity to- ward the lake, it is richly planted. Sending up summits 800 or 900 feet above sea-level, and situ- ated in the centre of scenes which description and song have laboured unsuccessfully to depict, it com- mands prospects of surpassing beauty. Away from its base, on the north, flaunting far onward in a contracting stripe of water, stretches Loch-Lomond, gemmed with its W(x)ded islands, and screened with bold romantic mountains, Benlomond lifting his towering summit in the north, and the lofty Bi nlcui breaking the sky-line in the distant north-easr. On the east, and toward the south, is spread the richly tinted carpeting of the parish's own luxu- riant plains, foiled in the centre by Duncruin; and farther off is seen the most part of Strathendrick. with a varied rich back-ground of liill, from the far-away Ocliils on the one hand, to the neighbour- ing Kilpatrick heights on the other. On the south, the vale of Leven, with its thickly sprinkled olijects of interest, lies expanded like a map: at its further end are seen the town and the castle of Dumbarton; and, in not very distant perspective, some ot the beauties of the Clyde, and the soft hills of Renfrew- shire. On the west, the eye is carried in easy and pleasing transition from the luscionsness of Low- land scenery, to the savagd wildness of the scenery of the Highlands; resting for a moment on the sylvan slopes which there giid Loch-Lomond, and passing over the hills of Cardross and Row, away to the bold mountainous elevations of Cowal. A very large proportion of the parish is arable, and well-enclosed. Nearly 670 acres are under wood. The moorland districts maintain about 500 sheep, of the black-faced breed, and some Highland black cattle. The principal landowners are the Duke of Montrose, Lady L. Buchanan, liuchanan of Ardocli, Mackenzie of "Caldarvin, and Macadam of Mains. On a rising-ground about ^ a mile from Loch- Lomond, stands Batturich-castle, the seat of Eindlav of Easterhill, built about 21 years ago, on part of the ruin of an ancient castle of the same name, which seemed to have been once a magni- ficent edifice. Two miles north of it is Ross-house, immediately on the banks of the lake. On a rising ground in the vale of the Endrick, 2J miles east ot the nearest part of the lake, is Catter-house, a fine old mansion on the estate of the Duke of Mon- trose, commanding a full view of the laAvn and wooded pleasure-grounds around Buchanan-h->uge. the Duke's principal seat, on the Stirlingshire sid*- KILMAETIN. 208 KIL^L\UES. of t]ie river. xVnother good mansion is Caklarvin, a little west of Duiicraiii liill. At Cattev is a larpe artificial earthen - mound, anciently the scat of courts-of-justice. Near it the IJuke of Lennox had a place of residence, no vestige of wliicli now re- mains. Kilinaronock-castle, a ruin on the estate of Mains, seems the remnant of a massive and impor- tant pile. There are three meal mills, respectively at Catter, at Mavie, and at Aber. The parish is traversed hy the roads from Drymen to Dtiniharton and Olasgow, and has two stations on the Forth and Clyde railway. An annual fair for horses is lield at Craftammie, on the 2d 'J'uesday of February; and another, principally for milk-cows, is held at tlie farm of Ardoch, on the last Thursdav of April. Population, in ]831, 999; in ISGl. 1,085". Houses, 173. Assessed property in 1860, £7,-2;52. This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke "of Montrose. Stipend, ill 37 9s. 8d.; glelje, £11. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £21'/ fees, and £5 10s. other emoluments. 'I'lie parish church was built in 1813, and contains -lOO sittings. 'J'here is an United Presbyterian church, which was built about three years ago. There are a jiarochial library and one non-pirocliial school. The saint from whom the parish has its name is the same as he who gives name to the parish and town of Kilmar- nock. A powerful spring in the vicinity of the church still hears the name of St. Marnoch's well. Tlie church was given, in 1325, by Robert I. to the monks of Cambuskennetli; and continued to be their property, and to be served b}' a vicar, till the lieformation. The parish had anciently two chapels, vestiges of wliich still exist. KILMARTIN, a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, on the west coast of Ar- gyleshire. It lies in the district of Argyle proper, opposite the north end of Jura, the gulf of Corrie- vrekan, and the island of Scarba; and is bounded on the south-west by Loch-Crinan, on the north- west by Loch-Craignish and the parish of Craignish, on the north-east by the parish of Dalavich, on the east by Loch-Awe, and on the south-east and south by the parish of Glassary. Its length north-east- ward is about 12 miles; and its breadth is about 3j miles. But it also includes the two principal is- lands in Loch-Craignish, and several other islets and insulated rocks. Its mainland is exceedingly diver- sified with liill and vale, with Avood and water, with lofty pastures and low farm-fields; and both com- prises within itself, and commands from its hill- tops, a multitude of beautiful landscapes. Its north- east end skirts for 5 miles the margin of Loch Awe, and rises abruptly thence to the elevation of about 1,000 feet; and a continuous ridge of hills extends thence along the boundary with Craignish, and down the sea-board to the vicinity of the mouth of Loch-Crinan. Another range of hills extends along much of the other side of the parish ; and both ranges, together with their offshoots, are beautifully featured with inteisecting depressions, and with wood and verdure. The valley of Kilmartin lies between these ranges, extending from north-north- east to soutli-south-west, watered by the rivulet Skeodnish which runs into the head of Loch-Crinan. It is one of the most beautiful valleys in the High- lands, at first winding and narrow, Init afterwards expanding into a level plain of between .'),000 and G.UOO acres, part of which passes into the palish of Glassary. The views from some of the western hills jange through the frith of Clyde on the one side, and along sixty miles of tlie Deucalcdonian sea on the other, from Islay to Appin, and are ex- ceedingly magnificent. The poet Campbell spent some of his early years in this neighbourhood, and has commemorated these scenes as follows in his Gertrude of Wyoming; — " Rut who is lie n dearer Innd Koiiieinhers, over the hills ami far nw.nyf Green Alliyn, what though he no inure" survey The ships at anchor on tlie quiet hay, Thy lone sepulchral cairn U)>on the inoor, AiiJ distant isles that hear the Corrievrekan roar." The New Statistical Account of the parish, writ- ten in 1844, distributes its total area into 3,456 acres of arable land, 39. Topuhuion of the parish in 1831, 'J.7U9; in 1861, 2,«52. Houses, 526. Assessed property in 18G0, £11,139. This parish is in tiie presbyteiy of Dingwall, and synod of Koss. I'atron, Professor Hercules Scott. S'tipend, £212 5s. Gd. ; glebe, £8. The parish church was built in 178G, repaired about 1835, and contains 630 sittings. There is, in the upper part of the parish, a mission station upheld by the committee of the royal Ix.nnty. There is a Free church of Kilmorack; and the sura raised in connexion witii it ill ISuJ was £Jli3 14s. Id. 'J'liere are two Koman Catholic chapels respectively at ISeauly, anil near tiie house of Fasnakyle. There are two parochial schools and a non-parochial one ; and the salary at- tached to each of the former is £32 10s. KILMOKE, a parish isi Lorn, Argyleshire. It is united to Kii-iuiide: which see. The united parish contains the post-town of Oban; and is bounded on three sides seaward by Loch-Feachan, the sound of Mull, and Loch-Etivc, and elsewhere by the parishes of Muckairn, Kilclirenan and Kilninvcr. It comprehends the island of Kei;i;ei;a: which see. Its mainland district — the c.a.steru portion of which is Kilmore — has a somewhat circular outline, and is about G^ miles in diameter. Its surface, in a gen- eral view, is hilly; but the hills are not high, and contain much good pasture i'or sheep and cattle ; wbil(! the valleys are cultivated and lertile. and have for the most part a light quick soil. A considerable extent of moss lies unreclaimed. There is, near the centre of the united parish, a lake called Loch-Nell, about 2 miles in length and A a mile in breadtii, from which a small stream runs to Loch-Feachan. The coast is of a semicircular figure, and, including creeks and bays, is nearly 20 miles in extent. In general, it is high and rocky, possessing, however, two excellent harbours, — one at Oban, and the other at Dunstaffnage, besides two in the island of Kenera. There are three ferries, viz., Connel- ferry over IjocIi- Etive, I'ort-Kerrer.i, between the mainland and that island, and Mull ferry, between the latter and the island of Mull. Slate and sandstone are quarried. The fisheries are various and valuable. Tliere are nine principal landowners. The real rental, exclu- sive of Oban, is about £6.750. Assessed property in 18G0 was £12,281. Two antiquities of great interest are noticed in our articles Dunstaffxage and Duxoi.LY. Population of Kilmore in 1831. 727; in 1851. 552. Houses. 103. Popxilation of the united parish in 1831, 2,83G; in 1861, 2,962. Houses, 359. This parisli is in the presbyteiy of Lorn, and svnod of Argvle. Patron, the Duke of Argvlc. Stipend, £249 "8s. 6d; glebe. £30. There are two parish churches. That of Kilmore was built about 3G0 years ago, and repaired about 14 years ago, and contains upwards of 350 sittings; and that of Kil- bride was built at a later date, and repaired about n years ago, and contains upwards of 3tipend, £250 5s. 2d.'; glebe, £32 10s. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £10 fee.s and £10 other emoluments. Tlie parish church was built in 1812, and contains 810 sittings. It is situ- ated at the village of Old Kilpatrick, and has a neat square battlemented tower, which figures pleas- antly in tlie landscape. There is a chapel of ease at Duntocher, which was built in 1836. and contains 800 sittino-s. Tliere are two Free churches, respec- tively at Old Kilpatrick and at Duntocher ; and the )-eceipts of the former in 1865 were £433 2s. 7d., — of the latter, £105 16s. 2d. There are three United Presbyterian churches, — one at old Kilpatrick. witli 587 sittings, one at Duntocher, with about 670 sit- ings, and one at Craigs, with 500 sittings. There is a Roman Catholic chapel at Duntocher, with an attendance of about 400. There are 9 private sehools, several public libraries, and some other in- stitutions. KILPATRICK BAY, a small open bay at the mouth of the Blackwater, on the west side of the island of Arran. It is also called Drimadown bay. KILPATRICK HILLS. See Le-vxox Hills, and Kjlpatiuck (West), KILPETER. See Hou.ston. KILPIRNIE. See Newtyli:. KILRAVOCK-CASTLE, an old picturesque residence, belonging to the ancient family of Rose of Kilravock, on the west border of Nairnshire. _ It surmounts a rocky bank, on the left side of the river Nairn, 6 miles south-west of the town of Nairn. It comprises a very ancient square keep, and a long range of high-roofed additions, most of which are said to have been designed by Inigo Jones; and is surrounded with dense woods, containing many fine old trees. In the house is one of the richest col- lections of old writings, old armour, and old paint- ings in the north of Scotland-, and one of the writ- ings, a curious diary by successive tutors and chaplains of the place, was recently published by the Spalding Club. The Roses came into posses- sion of Kilravock about the year 1280; and they have contiiuied in possession by uninterrupted male descent. Tiie mother of Henry Mackenzie, the author of 'the Man of Feeling,''and the lady ad- mired by Lord President Forbes, the heroine of his song, 'Ah Chloris, could I now but sit,' were KILKENNY 215 KILSYTH. d.ius'hters of the house of Rose, and residents at Ki!- ravock-castle. The name KUravock is popularly pronounced Kilrawk. KILKENNY, a parish, containin.G: tlie post-town of Kilrenny and the large fishing-village of Cellar- dykes, on the south-east coast of Fifeshire. It is bounded on the south l)y the frith of Forth, and on other sides by the paiishes of Anstruther, Carnbee, and Crail. Its length eastward is about 3J miles; and its breadth is nearly 2^ miles. The surface rises from the sliore to the northern boundary in a gentle acclivity, unbroken by any eminence deserv- ing notice; and it presents to the eye a fertile and liighly cultivated appearance. A few acres along the shore are constantly in pasture, about 10 or 12 aci-es belonging to the town are in wasteful com- monage, and a small aggregate of the estates of In- nergelly and Thirdpart are under wood; but all the rest of "the land is regularly in tillage. The beach is covered with large sandstone blocks; and the in- terior is incumbent on rocks of the coal I'ormation. Limestone, sandstone, and coal are worked. There are eight landowners; but the only mansions are Innergelly-house and Kennyhill. The valued rental is £8,470 Beotcli. Assessed property in 1860, £7,523 6s. lOd. Tiie parish is traversed by the road from Cruil to Largo, and has ready access to the steam-boat communication of Anstruther. Popula- tion in 1831, 1,705; in 1861, 2,53-i. Houses, 346. This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife. Patron, William Baird of Ellie. iStipend, £269 2s. 2d.; glebe, £27 lOs. Unajipro- priated teinds, £218 13s. 3d. [Schoolmaster's salary is now £50. witli about £40 fees. The pai-ish ohurch was built in 1806, and contains about 800 sittings. The ancient church was given by the Countess Ada, mother of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion, to the monks of Diyburgh, and was served by a vicar till tlie Reformation. There are in Cellar- dykes two boys' schools, a girls' school, and an infant school. The Town of Kilkenny stands about i a mile from the nearest part of the shore, § of a mile north- e-ist of Cellardykes, and 3 miles west-south-west of Crail. It claims to be called a town only in con- sequence of wearing burgh honours, — for, in all other respects, it is only a small village. Even in its burgh capacity too, it shares all its honours with Cellardykes, being itself called Upper Kilrenny while that place is called Nether Kilrenn}'; and even the two together acquired a place among re- turning burghs only liy an accident, and are pro- perly no more than a burgh of regality. Kilrenny, so far as is known, never had a royal charter; and it holds feu of a subject superior, Bethune of Bal- four. It appears, however, to liave at one time sent a member to the Scottish parliament; and, in 1672, the magistrates presented a supplication to parlia- ment, setting forth that it never was a royal burgh, and praying that it might no longer be considered as such, but continue a burgh-of regality. This supplication was submitted to the privy council, and Kilrenny was expunged from the rolls. Yet, after a time, it again sent a member to parliament with- out being objected to; and at the Union, it was in- advertently classed with four other burghs to send a member to the British parliament; and by the re- form bill, it was conjoined with Cupar, St. Andrews, Crail, Pittenweem, and the two Anstruthers for the same purpose. It was disfranchised, however, up- wards of 20 years ago, and placed under the man- agement of "three persons resident in Cellardykes. Population in 1841, 1,652; in 1861, 2,073. Houses, 257. But these statistics, it will be remembered, aro inclusive of Cellardykes: which see. KILRY HILL, a hill extending east and west in the parish of Glenisla in Forfarshire, and dividing it into two districts of nearly equ^l size. KILSPINDIE, a parish, containing the post- ofSce village of Rait, and the villages of Kilspindie and Pitrodie, in the Gowrie district of Perthshire. It is bounded by St. Martin's, Collace, Kinnaird, Errol, and Kinfauns. Its length south-westward is about 5 miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 3j miles. A narrow belt on the south-east side lies in the Carse of Gowrie, and is carpeted with a deep rich soil of mixed clay and moss. All the other parts of the pari.sh are hilly ; but the slopes of the hills, toward the Carse, are cultivated to the sum- mit, and have a very fertile soil. Among the hills, too, are many pleasant little spots in hollows and glens, where the soil is eminently good. The sum- mits and sides of the hills in the interior, and away to the northern extremity, are generally barren, and, in many places, are covered with a wet heath sward, thickly sprinkled with whitish or grey whinstone boulders. Upwards of 200 acres are under planta- tion. Some interesting features have been noticed in the articles Evelick and Fingask : which see. The streams which traverse or touch the parish are all mere burns, six in number. The principal land- owners are Sir P. M. Thriepland, Bart, of Fingask, Moodie Stewart of Annat, Ramsay of Kinkell, Steele of Evelick, and Robertson of TuUybeltou. The rental is about £6.304. Assessed property in 1860. £6,255 2s. 7d. The parish is traversed by the old road from Perth to Dundee, and has near access to stations of the Perth and Dundee railway. Popula- tion in 1831, 760; in 1861, 665. Houses, 150. Tho village of Kilspindie stands on the southern border of tlie parish, at the debouch of one of the little glens from the hills, f of a mile south of Rait, and 3 miles north-north-west of Errol. It anciently had a castle, which is now extinct ; and it was the place in which the mother of Sir William Wallace found refuge in the young hero's boyhood, and whence he went to attend school at Dundee, and whither he fled after one of his early exploits in that town. Says Blind Harry respecting his mother and him, — "To Gowrie passed, and dwelt in Kilspindie. The kniclit, her father, tliitlier he llicm sent To liis uncle, that witli lull good intent In Gowrie dwelt, and had gude living there. Ane aged man, the wliilk received them lair." This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patrons, the CroAvn and Robertson of Tullybelton. Stipend, £233 17s.; glebe, £12. Unappropriated teinds, £72 6s. School- master's salary, is now £45, with £10 fees. The parish church stands in the village of Kilspindie, and is a plain modern building, containing about 350 sittings. There is a private school in Rait ; and there is a parochial library. The present parish comprehends the ancient parishes of Kilspindie and Rait, which were united prior to 1634. The walls of the church of Rait are still standing. KILSPINDIE, Haddingtonshire. See Abeelady. KILSYTH, a parish, containing the post-town of Kilsyth, and the villages of Banton and Auchin- mully, in Stirlingshire. It is bounded on the south by Dumbartonshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Campsie, Fintry, St. Ninians, and Denny. Its greatest length west- south-westward is 7 J miles; and its greatest breadth is 4f miles. Carron water flows eastward 3J miles along the northern boundary. Kelvin water rises in the south-east corner, and flows westward 5| miles, in a deep artificial channel, along the southern boundary. Several streamlets which rise in the in- terior, and flow southward, are remarkable for the KILSYTH. 216 KILSYTH. nuraerousness aud variety of the cascades and catar- acts which they form, and for tlie vast aggrcj^fate amount of machinery which they drive. lUish- huru flows on tiie eastern boundary, and is a tribu- tary or head-stream of Bouny- water. A mile west- ward of it. flows another head-stream of that water, Auchincloch-burn. Next are Shawend-burn and ftarrcl-burn, both natural tributaries of tlie Kelvin, but now collected into a large artificial lake lying about a mile east of the town of Kilsyth, covering upwards of 70 acres, shut up within romantic banks, and serving as a reservoir to the Forth and Clyde canal. Further west are Quinzie-burn and Incli- wood-burn, the latter flowing for about a mile on the boundary, and then running into the interior. The southern district of the parish, comprising nearly one half of its entire area, is part of the great strath of the Forth and Clyde canal, and contains the watershed or sunmiit-level of that strath. The sur- face, for a little way northward from the boundary, is nearly a dead level, little more than 160 feet above the level of the Forth at Grangemouth; and farther north it makes an undulating, broken, and rough ascent. Though very bare of trees, this dis- trict, in consequence of being well-cultivated and enclosed, presents a pleasing aspect. Between this district and a belt of meadow-land along the north- ern boundary, the whole area swells boldly and variedly up in wild pastoral heights, a continuation of the Campsie fells, called the Kilsyth hills, lifting their summits from 1,000 to 1,368 feet above the level of the sea. The loftiest of these hills com- mands a prospect which, if less beautiful and varie- gated than that from the top of Benlomond, is richei- and more continuous. Part of at least fourteen, if not sixteen counties, is under the eye at one glance. Scotland is seen from sea to sea, and over a still more extensive area fi"om south to north. The con- trast between the Lowland and the Highland part of the vast scene, strongly arrests the attention. "If you turn your eye southward from the frith of Forth to Clyde, and from Pentland and Galloway to the Ochils and Kilpatrick hills, the whole seems one extended fertile plain, or rather like a beautiful garden sheltered on all hands by the surrounding mountains, and divided into numberless beautiful enclosures, like the compartments of a flower garden. Nothing can possibly be a more striking contrast to this than the prospect to the north. For 70 or 80 miles it appears to be an endless succession of hill upon hill, overtopping one another till they are lost in the distance of the prospect, and blended with the blue clouds or azure sky. In a foggy day, or frosty morning, the prospect is truly picturesque. IJeing raised entirely above the fog, the whole plain to the south appears like the sea in a calm; while the hills on the north seem to rise like islands out of the main, or like the tumultuous waves of the ocean in a storm." The soil of the parish in that part of the southern plain which is skirted by the Kelvin, is a rich fertile loam, from 2 to 2 J feet deep; in the smaller part of that plain whose waters run eastward, it is thin, channelly, and siliceous; and in the upland districts it is in general sandy, or gravelly and light, and, in some places, almost wholly yields to a carpeting of small stones of from four ounces to two or three pounds weight. The climate, though moist, is salu- brious. The agriculture of the parish probably ex- hibits no peculiarity except the historical one, that it introduced to Scotland the open cultivation of the potato. In 1728, when that esculent was known and treated only as a tender exotic, Thomas Pren- tice, a day-labourer here, set the example of raising it in the open field ; and eleven years later, Robert Graham, Esq. of Tomrawer, had here brought the practice to such perfection, that he rented lands near Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dundee. Perth, and Ren- frew, for supplying the public. Sir Archibald Ed- monstone of Dantrcath, Bart., is by far the largest landowner of the parish, and resides in it at Col- zium; and there are nearly twenty other land- owners, but only six of them resident. The real rental in 1841 was £9,517; the estimated value of raw land produce in that year, £24.127; the value of assessed property in 1860, £14,050. A beautiful light coloured sandstone has long been quarried. Coal occurs throughout a large part of tlic parish, and is extensively worked. Limestone of excellent quality also is worked, but not to so great extent as lormerly. Ironstone has very long been extensively worked by the Carron company; and is now exten- sively worked also bv another party. A vein of eoppijr ore was wrouglit during last century by the York Building company. Large masses of grey and variegated dull-coloured flint, and specimens of yellow and red jasper, were discovered in 1791, or rather were then brought into notice; for the jasper possessing a very fine grain, had even at that date found its way to the lapidaries and seal cngraveri of Edinburgh and London. A famous battle was fought in the parish of Kil- syth, on the 15th of August, 1645, between the army of Montrose and an army of Covenanters. The scene of action was the tract immediately around the hollow which now contains the reservoir of the Forth and Clyde canal, — a field so broken and irregular, that, did not tradition and history concur in identifying it, few persons could believe it to have been the arena of any military operation. Montrose and his men took up their ground to their own liking, to abide the onset of forces specially deputed against them by the Scottish council under the command of Baillie, an oflicer of reputation. But when Baillie arrived to make the attack, he lound his authority all but entirely superseded by a connnittee, headecl by Argyle, and shorn of power to exert subordinating influence on the portion of the army placed specially under his control. Mon- trose's army consisted of only 4,400 foot, with 50O hoise, while that of his antagonist amounted to 6.000 foot and 1,000 horse; but he had the high ad- vantages of having chosen his ground, of possessing the supreme command, and of having arranged liiw troops in the best possible manner for confronting his opponents. The weather being very hot, Mon- trose bade his fellows doff their outer garments, — a circumstance which gave rise to a tradition that tiiey Ibught naked; and, making a general assault, he almost instantly — aided or rather led by the im- petuosity of his Highlanders — threw his antagonists, reserve and all, into such confusion, that prodigies of valour, on the part of their nominal commander, utterly failed to rally even a portion of them, and incite them to withstand the foe. A total rout taking place, Montrose's forces cut down or cap- tured almost the whole of the infantry, and even coolly massacred many of the unarmed inhabitants of the country. Though Baillie's cavalry, for the most part, escaped death from the conqueror, very many of them met it in fleeing from his pursuit across the then dangerous morass of Dullater bog. Incredible as it may seem, only seven or eight per- sons in Montrose's army were slain. " It belongs not to me," says the Rev. Robert Rennie, in the Old Statistical Account, " to give any detail of that engagement, in this place. Suffice it only to say, that every little hill and valley bears the name, or records the deeds of that day; so that the situation of each army can be distinctly traced. Such as the KILSYTH. 217 KILSYTPI. Bullet and Bagirage-know, the Drum-burn, the Slaughter-how or hollow, Kill-e-many butts. &c. &c. In the Bullet- know and neighbourhood, bullets are found eveiy year; and in some places so thick, that you may lift three or four Avithout moving a step. In the iSlaughter-how, and a variety of other places, bones and skeletons may be dug up everywhere i and in every little bog or marsh for 3 miles, especially in the DuUater bog, they have been discovered in almost every ditch. Tiie places where the bodies lie in any number nmy be easily known ; as the grass is always of a more luxuriant growth in summer, and of a yellowish tinge in spring and harvest." —In 1769-70, when the Forth and Clyde canal was cut through Dullater bog, myriads of small toads, each about the size of a nut or turkey bean, issued fi'om the morass, hopped over all the adjacent fields northward to the extent of several miles, and were so numerous as to resemble in motion the rebound of hail-stones in a heavy shower, and to count 10, or even 20 or 30, in the space of a square yard. They all went directly north, yet were never seen beyond the summit of the hill, nor anywhere in con- siderable number the following spring. The parish all lies immediately on the Caledonian side of Antoninus' wall, and possesses or has yielded up antiquities in keeping with its position. At \V'esterwood and Barhill, beyond the limits of the parish, are two distinct Roman forts; and corres- ponding to these, within the limits, are two Pictish forts, respectively at Cunny-park and at Balcastle. That at Balcastle is perhaps the most beautiful, re- gular, and entire of all the Pictish forts in Scot- land: situated in a peninsula formed by two rills, rising on all sides at an angle of 45 degrees, 300 I'eet in diameter at its base, and 150 feet on its flat summit. Several circular fortifications called Ches- ters, the Gaelic name for camps, have a strong mutual resemblance, and bear such marks of high antiquity as to have been supposed coeval with the Koman i'orts, or of earlier construction than Anto- ninus' wall. Various tumuli once existed; but have been levelled in the course of agricultural improve- ment. There are also monuments of the feudal times. In the Barwood is an eminence, still called the Court-hill, where the haughty barons were ac- customed to sit in judgment. jSear Quinzie-burn is another eminence called the Gallow-hill, where their unrelenting sentences were put in execution. Half a mile north of the town of Kilsyth are the ruins of Kilsyth-castle, anciently the baronial resi- dence of the junior branch of the family of Living- stone. Sir James Livingstone offered to hold out the castle against Cromwell, and otherwise main- tained loyalty to the house of Stuart during the period of the interregnum, and at the Kestoration was created Viscount Kilsyth, and Lord Campsie. His second son, William, the third Viscount Kil- s\'th, engaged in the rebellion of 1715, suffered for- feiture, and died in Holland. He married first the widow of Viscount Dundee, who brought him a son, and next Barljara, daughter of Macdougal of Mac- kerston, who brought him a daughter. The family burying-vault, 16 feet square, having been entered, in 1795, for the purpose of plunder, the embalmed bodies of one of these ladies — most probably the se- cond — and her intant, were found in a state of ap- parently as complete preservation as immediately after death. The vaiilt is now so closed up as to be inaccessible. This parish is traversed along its southern border by the north road from Glasgow to Stirling; it is nowhere more than ^ a mile, and generally not more than 200 or 300 yards distant from the Forth and Clyde canal, and it enjoys ready access to the Croy | and Castlec-aiy stations of the Edinburgh and Glas- gow railway. There are in the parish a sickle-work at Upper Banton, a paper-mill at Townhead, a brick and tile wci-k at Ciurymire, a waulking factory at Quinzie-raill, and a power-loom factory in the town of Kilsyth. Many of the parishioners are hand-loom weavers, in the employment of Glasgow manufacturers. Among distinguished natives of the parish may be mentioned Sir William Livingstone, who became a Henator of the college of justice in 16U9, the liev. John Livingstone, one of the founders of the Presbyterian church in Ireland, Dr. Jetiray, professor of anatomy in the university of Glasgow, Sir Archibald Edmoustone, author of a narrative ot travels in Egypt, W. A. Cadell, Esq., author of two volumes of travels in Italy, and tiie Rev. Dr. R. Rennie, minister of the parish from llHd to 1820, and author of several essays on peat-moss. Pop- ulation of the parish in 1831, 4,297 ; in 1861, 6,112 Houses, 718. This parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. I'atron, the Crown. Stipend, £271 6s. 7d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £78 12s. 8d. The parish church stands at the west end of the town, is an elegant structure, built in 1816, and contains 860 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Banton, a little north of Kelvin- head, a neat building, erected about 1 6 years ago, containing upwards of 400 sittings, and under tiie pati-onage of its own subscribers and managers. There is a Free church of Kilsyth, with an attend- ance of about 400 ; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £200 Os. 5d. There is an L'nited Presbyterian church at Kilsyth, built in 1766, and containing 559 sittings. There are also an In- dependent chapel and a Wesleyan Methodist chapel. There are tlnee parochial schools, and two non- parochial, the former situated respectively in the burgh and in the west and east baionies. Salary of the burgh schoolmaster, who employs an a,ssistant, £50, with £58 fees, and £9 other emoluments ; of the east barony schoolmaster £15, with £31 fees, and £1 Is. other emoluments; of the west barony schoolmaster, £9, with £23 fees, and £22 other emoluments. The east barony was formerly called Monaebrugh, and constituted the whole parisli till 1649, and was a rectory. The west barony is Kilsyth proper, and, till 1649, belonged to Campsie; and it did not impose its name on the parish, to the expulsion of the ancient one of Monaebrugh, till the close of the 17th century. In this barony, at a place still called Chapel-green, there was anciently a chapel. Supposing this to have been dedicated to a Romish saint of the name of Cetae, the word Kil- syth may be derived from that name, with the prefix Cella, a church, chapel, or burying-ground. Or the word may be an abbreviation of the Gaelic Kil- abhuinnsith, ' Church of the River of peace; ' and the brook in the vicinity of the church may have been considered as haunted by the L>aoine ISith, or Scot- tish fairies, called ' men of peace,' for tear of their malign influence. Kilsyth is remarkable as the scene of two religious revivals which occured le- spectively in the years 1742 and 1839, and excited great interest throughout the country. Narratives of them were written and published by tlie Rev. Mr. Robe and the Rev. Mr. Bums, the incumbents at their respective dates. The Town of Kilsyth stands on the north road from Glasgow to Stirling, J of a mile north of tlie Forth and Clyde canal, b\ miles west by north of Cumbernauld, 112 west-south-west of Falkirk, 12 J north-east of Glasgow, and 15 south by west of Stir- ling. Seen from the banks of the canal or from th<.' neighbouring heights, it seems to be bleakly situ- KILTARLITY. 2 US KILTEARN. atcd, and has a cliiifry appearance. Its street- arranccments arc stratrgling and irrcixular; and its edifices indicate tlie narrow conii)ctency of a community of cotton-weavers subordinate to Glas- gow. Tiie original village ran along the bank:? of the Garrel, at a time, of course, when that stream was not diverted toward its present reservoir re- ceptacle; and it then bore the name of Monaebrugh. Hut about the j'ear 1(JG5, an entirely new town was built on a small rising ground, called Moat-liill, and took the name Kilsyth from the title of the pro- prietor. This, for some time, derived consequence from being a stage on the great thoroughfare from Glasgow to f>tirling, Falkiik, and Edinburgh; and, after b(;ing foisaken by that tralKc. it continued to niaintain itself by connexion with the cotton manu- facturers of Glasgow. A factory was erected here about 10 years ago which itself employs a good number of weavers. The town is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water. Fairs are held on the second Friday of April, and the third Friday of November; and a large cattle-show is held in June. The town has a savings' bank, and a branch-office of the National bank of Scotland. It was erected into a burgh-of-barony in 182G. Its governing body comprises a bailie and 4 councillors; and it has also a commission of police, comprising the bailie, one of the councillors, and 5 other connnis- sioners. Topulation in 1841,4,1U0; in 1861, 4,092. Houses, 506. KILTAEUTY, a parish, containing a post-office tstation of its own name, and reaching on the cast within 2 miles of the post-town of I'ennly, in Iii- verness-shire. It is bounded by Iloss-shire. and by the parishes of Kilmorack, Kirkhill, Inverness, and Urquhart an-I Glenmoriston. Its length east- ward is about 37 miles; and its average breadth is about 6 miles. The water-course of Strathglass, from the head of GlennftVick all the way down to within 2 miles of Beauly, forms, with two excep- tions, the northern boundary line. The one excep- tion gives the Davoch of Erchless and Annat, on the north side of the river, to Kiltarlity; and the other gives the three farms, called the Crochails, on the south side of the river, to Kilmorack. All our articles which give a geneial account of Strath- glass, or an account of its most remarkable features, such as Affrick (Loch), Glass (The), Strathglass, Inverxess-shire, Aigas, Erchless-Castle, and Drhuim ('1'he), are thus descriptive of Kiltarlity. Excepting about 'J square miles of a low-lying tract at its eastern extremity, the entire parisli consists of hilly and rocky upland, cut into sections by glens, and fiinged on the north by one half of the valley- ground of Strathglass. Its heights are genenilly rounded, and do not an}'where exceed an altitude of 2,000 feet above sea-level, and yet, in the west, are almost a wilderness, and in some places inaccessible by man. There are numerous lakes ; some of them grandly romantic. There are also extensive woods, chiefly recent plantations. The principal proprietor is Lord Lovat, whose residence, Beaufort-castle, stands near the eastern extremity of the parish, amid extensive wooded policies, on the site of the ancient fortress of Beaufort or Dunie, which figures in history so early as the time of Alexander I., and sustained a regular siege in 1303 by the troops of Edward of England. Another extensive landowner is J. Stewart. Esq., whose estate stretches up Glen- conveth southward from Beaufort-castle, and is tra- versed by a new road into Glenurquhart ; and whose mansior. of Belladrum stands amid brilliant pleasure-grounds, and is one of the most elegant in the Highlands. Chisholm of Chisholm also owns part of the parish. The principal antiquities are Druidical temples and vitrified foits. The lowei part of the parish adjoins, and the upper part is traversed by, the north road from Inverness to Skye. Population in 1831, 2,715; in 1861, 2,839. Houses. b\)S. The assessed property in 1S60 was £9.391.' This parish is in the presbytery of inveraess, and synovl of Moray. Pati'on, Piofessor Hercules Scott. Stipend, £283 14s.; glebe, £60. The parish church stands about 3 miles from the east boundary, and was built in 1829, and contiiins 790 sittings. The upper part of the pari.^h is included in the Eoyal bounty ndssion of Strathglass. There are a Free church of Kiltarlity, and a Free church preaching station of Stnithglass ; and the receipts of the lormer in 1865 were £146 13s. 7d.,— of the latter, £43 8s. 6<1. There is a Roman Catholic chapel with 500 sittings at Eskadale. There are three parochial sciiools at respectively Kiltarlity, ;Mauld, and Knockfin. Salary of the Kiltaility schoolmaster, £30; of eacli of the other sciioolmasters, £20 by law, but £25 by voluntary gift of the Chis- holm and of Mr. Marjoribanks of Guisachan. There is an endowed female school at Kiltaility. The present parish comprehends the ancient parishes of Kiltarlity and Conveth. ^^'hen these parishes were united is not known. Conveth is the south-east portion of the united parish. KILTEAKN, a parish, containing the post-office village of Evantown and the village of Drummond, in Koss-shire. It is bounded on the south-east by the frith of Cromarty, and on other sides by the parishes of Dingwall, Fodderty, Contin, Lochbroom, and Alness. Its length south-eastward is about 20 miles; and its breadth along the coast is about 6 miles, and in the interior is variable. The huge mountain Benwyvis is on the boundaiy with Fod- derty. All the rest of the interior, excepting a tract of from one mile to two miles in breadth along the coast, is continuous upland, wild and uncultivated, consisting of a mass of hills covered with heath, and interspersed with extensive tracts of moor and mossy ground, and valleys covered with coarse grass. Along the coast the parish is arable, and exhibits a rich appearance; the fields are regularly enclosed, and several elegant seats are seen, sur- rounded with thriving plantations. The total num- ber of cultivated acres is about 3,000. The principal waters ai^e those noticed in our articles Adltgrakde and Glass (Loch). The rivulet Skiack, i'ormed by the union of scA'cral mountain-torrents, falls into the frith about i a mile from the mouth of the Ault- grande; and there are sevei-al other streamlets, which take their rise from lakes among the moun- tains. Coal has been found, but could not he pro- fitably worked. Lead and iron ores also occur, but have not hitherto promised or induced any attempt at mining. Sir Charles Munro of Fowlis, Bart., whose seats are Fowlis-castle and Ardullie-house, is the proprietor of about two-thirds of the parish, and counts as the thirtieth in descent fronr Donald Munro, to whom ^lalcolm II. granted the tract of country between Dingwall town and Allness water, for assisting him to extirpate the Danes; and part of that tract was afterwai'ds erected into the barony of Fowlis. Tlie other landowners are Munro of Novar, Mackenzie of Mountgerald, Munro of Bal- cony, and Davidson of Tulloch. The real rental in 1839 was about £5,300; the estimated value of raw produce in that year, £15,090; the value of assessed property in 1800, was £7,084. There aie meal, fiour. barley, carding, and saw mills on the Skiack and the Aultgrande. The chief antiquities are re- mains of five chapels and buryingplaces. There was formerl3', to the west of the house of CI311C. a KILWINNING. 219 KILWINNING. remarkable piece of antiquity, which the progress of the plough some 25 years ago "swept away. It was an oval figure, formed with large stones set up- right, similar — though on a smaller scale — to Stone- heiige m Wiltshire; and is supposed to have been used by the Druids as a place of worship. The parish "is traversed by the road from Dingwall to Tain. Population in 1831, 1,605; in 1861, l,63i. Hi)uses, 3U3. This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres- bytery cf Dingwall, and svnod of Ross. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £2-19 9s. 6d.; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with about £20 fees. Tlie parisii church was bnilt iu 1791, and contains 524 sittings. There in a Free church, with about o.")0 sittings; and its receipts in 1865 were £181 2s. 4Ad. There is a private school at Evau- town. KILTUINTATK. Sec Morvex. KILVICEUEN. See Kilfinichex. KILWINNING, a parish, containing the post- town of Kilwinning, and the villages of Fergus-hill, Doura, and Dalgarven, in the district of Cunninjr- liam. Ayrshire. It is bounded by Dairy, Beitli, Dunlop, Stewarton, Irvine, Stevenston, and Ardros- san. Its greatest length south-south-westward is ai)out 7 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 5 miles. Along the east and north-east, the surface is iiilly; and thence to the south, south-west, and west, it slopes gently down in knolly or waving curves. Many of its heights and hillocks are crowned with plantation, and are agreeable features in a lovely landscape. The southern extremity is beautified by the mansion and part of the pleasure- grounds of Eglintox-castle: see that article. The views from the upper district are extensive and beautiful, comprising some of the finest groupings of the frith of Clyde and its screens, with a rich low country on the foreground. A good many hundreds of acres of the jmrochial area are under wood; a considerable aggregate in the upper district is moss ; from one-fourth to one-third of the entire area is under crop; and all the rest is disposed in field pasture, suijordinate to the dairy. The soil of nearly one half of the cultivated lands is a stiff clay ; and that of most of the remainder is a light sandy loam. Uarnock and Lugton waters intersect the par'sh, tlie former south-eastward and the latter south- westward, making a confluence about a mile below Eglinton- castle. Caaf water traces the boundary a short distance with Dairy, and falls into the Gar- noclv. A small lake, called Ashenyard or Ashgrove loch, lies on the boundary with Stevenston. Rocks of the coal formation underlie the whole parochial surface. Coal abounds, and is extensively worked. Limestone, of excellent quality, is also extensively worked. Three blast furnaces, together with suit- able accompanying buildings, were erected in 1845, under the name of the Eglinton iron-works ; two others were erected afterwards ; and the resident popnlationthere is now about 1,000. Good building sandstone is quarried, and was long ago in request for places beyond the parish. There "are 35 land- owners drawing lental of £50 or upwards; but the only mansions, besides Eglinton-castle, are Mount- greenan, ilonkcastle, and Ashgrove. The farms, in general, are small; many of them not more than 50 acres, and all averaging only about 80. The average rent of arable land is about £1 15s. per acre. There are four corn mills and three saw mills. The parish is traversed by the Glasgow and South- western railway, in both its Ayr fork and its Kil- marnock, and it has a station on the Ayr fork 26 miles from Glasgow, and contains the junction with it of the Ardrossau railway. Population in 1831, 3,772; in 1861,7,717. Houses, 1,061. Assessed property in 1860, £23,367. This parish is in the presbytery of Ii-vine, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton. Stipend, £316 8s. 5d.; glebe, £14. Un- appropriated teinds, £670 9s. Id. The parish church was built in 1775, and contains 1,030 sittings. Tliere is a Free church, with an attendance of about 265; and its receipts in 1865 were £151 4s. lOd. There are also an United Presbyterian church, and an United Original Secession church, each with an attendance of about 200; the former containing 600 sittings, the latter 550. There is likewise a Morri- sonian place of worship. The schools in the parish are the parochial school, two penny-a-week schools for respectively boys and girls in the town, two ad- venture schools for respectively boys and girls in the town, an adventure school at Hyres, a school at the Fergushill coal-mines, a school at tlie Eglinton iron-works, and four subscription schools at Auchen- tiber, Bullerholes, Doura, and Dalgarven. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is £70, witli £31 10s. other emoluments. The present attend- ance at the parochial school is 243, and at all the other schools collectively 629. — The parish figures prominently in record as the site of an abbey, and was anciently a vicarage of that abbey, and derived its name from St. Winning, a Scottish saint of the Sth century. Near the manse is a fountain still called Winning's well. Soon after the erection o( the abbey, Kilwinning was known, in all the cir- cumjacent country, under the name of Saigtown, thought by some to be a corruption of Saints'-town; and by this name it still is, or very recently was, well known to tlie inhabitants. Before the Refor- mation the church of the abbey served as the parish church; and even when the abbey itself was de- molished, the church was allowed to stand, and con- tinued to be used till the erection of the present edifice. The abbey of Kilwinning was founded in 11-40, for a coloiiv of Tyronensian monks from Kelso, by Hugh de Morvilie. lord of Cunningham, and Lord High Constable of Scotland, and dedicated, like a church which preceded it, to St. Winning. Robert I., Hugh de Morvilie, John de Meneleth, the lord of Arran, Sir William Cunningham of Kilmaurs, Sir John Maxwell of Maxwell, and other opulent and powerful personages, endowed it with very exten- sive possessions. Besides granges and other pro- perty, the abbey claimed the proprietorship of the tithes and pertinents of 20 parish-churches, — 13 of them in Cunningham, 2 in Arran, 2 in Argyleshire, and 2 in Dumbartonshire. " According to the tra- ditionary account of the entire revenue of the monas- tery," says the statist in the Old Account, " it is asserted that its present annual amount would be at least £20,000 sterhng." From Robert II. the monks obtained a charter, erecting all the lands of the barony of Kilwinning into a free regality, with ample jurisdiction; and they received ratifications of this charter from Robert III. and James IV. The monks appear to have Iteen unusually expert in the chicanery of priestcraft, and to have enthralled the judgments and superstitious feelings of men in the dark ages of their influence, fully more than most of their contemporaries. They made such use of some pretended relics as, on the credulous faith of their virtues, to draw many ofterings; and they, at the same time, made such an exhibition to the pitblic eye of shallow austerities, as to win for them- selves the credit of being superhuman in character.^ James IV., when passing their place in 1507, made an offering of 14 sliillings to their relics. Hovedcn, thoroughly gulled with their legends, gravely re- KILWINNIXG. 220 KILWINNING. lates, that a fountain in tlic vicinity of tlicir monas- tery ran blood I'or eight clays anil nights, in the year 1184. The last abbot was Gavin Hamilton, of the family of Kosslock, a hot opponent of John Knox, and a zealous partizan of Queen Mary. In 1538, he Bucceedcd James Bethune, archbishop of Glasgow, as abbot; and in 1551, was killed in a skirmish in the Canongate of Edinburgh. According to tradition, the buildings of the ab- bey, when entire, covered several acres, and were stately and magnificent. In 15(30, Alexander. Earl of Glencairn, one of the most active and distin- guished promoters of the Ueforniation, acting by order of the iStates-general of Scotland, almost de- stroyed them, leaving only the church and a steeple, and so totally demolished what was strictly monastic, that all traces of even the foundations of the walls liave long ago utterly disappeared. In KjOo — after the abbey had been under the commendatorship, first of the family of Glencairn, and next of the family of Ilaith — its lands and titles, and various pertinents, were erected into a temporal lordship in favour of Hugh, Earl of Eglinton. Tiie church continued to be in use as the parish cliureh till 1775. when the greater part of it was taken down to make way for the present parish church. So much of the ruins as remained were afterwards repaired, at very con- siderable expense, by the then Earl of Eglinton; and, from a drawing of them made in 1789, they are exhibited in Grose's Antiquities. The steeple mainly consisted of a huge square tower, 32 feet on each side and 103 feet high; and in 1814 it fell from natural decay. A new beautiful tower was built in the following year, about the same height, 28 feet square, on the same site, and separate from the church. The south gable of the old church's transept, and one of its finely proportioned arches, a Saxon gateway, and some mouldering walls, are now the only extant remains of the ancient abbey. The To^^'s of Kilwinning stands on a gentle insing-ground, on the right bank of the Garnock, on the road from Irvine to Paisley, and on the route of the Ayr fork of the Glasgow and South-western railway, 2f miles north-north-west of Irvine, 3^ noith-east of Saltcoats, 3| south by east of Dairy, and 26, by railway, south-west of Glasgow. The town is ancient, and has a dull, antiquated, dingy appearance; yet borrows sufficient splendour from the loveliness of its environs, from reminiscences of its historical importance, and from the Ijeautiful remains of its old church, with the contiguous elegant modern tower, to be an object of interest. It consists principally of one narrow street, winged by some lanes, and of some rows of modern houses; and stretches westward from the river. Its ex- tremities are somewhat detached; and the western one is called the Byres, from a belief that the monks kept their cattle there; while the eastern one bears the name of Crossbill, from being the place where they set up the cross to receive the homage of ap- proaching pilgrims. The environs of the town are richly adorned with wood; and its higher parts command a gorgeous view of the frith of Clyde and its screens. The male inhabitants are emploj-ed chiefly in weaving and mining, and the females in sewing. In the various departments of silk, wool- len, and cotton, the town had, in 1828, 370 looms, and in 1838, 350. In the latter year, 60 of the looms were harness, and 200 plain. The number of looms is now smaller ; and they are employed principally in the weaving of silk. There is like- wise a foundry in the town. Fairs are held on the first day of February, and the first Wednesday of November. The principal inns are the Eglinton arms and the Winton arms. The town has two banking offices, a savings' bank, a reading-room several friendly societies, and a total abstinence society. Population in 1861, 3,921. Houses, 434. Kilwinning was the cradle of free-masonry in Scotland. Fraternities of architects were formed on the Continent of Europe, in the 11th and 12ih centuries, to carry out the principles of the Gothic architecture; and being favoured with bulls from the Popes of Kome, securing to them peculiar ])rivileges wherever they might go, called them- selves free-masons. Orie of these fraternities came to Scotland to build the abbey of Kilwinning; and there they took some of the natives into their fel- lowship, making them partakers of their secrets and their privileges. What the secrets were, and some of the privileges, is not known; but the fraternities which sprang U]) in Scotland, together with all those on the Continent and in England, soon passed from their original character into one of mere haughty exclusive consociation, with little or nc reference to any purposes of architecture. In this new chai'acter Scottish free-mason y sank suddenly into obscurity, and even into odium; but it eventu- ally revived; and in the reign of James I., it walked abroad whh the liiL^h bearing which has ever since characterized it. That monarch, not long after his return from England, patronized the mother-lodge of Kilwinning; and presided as grand-master till he settled an annual salary, to be paid by every master-mas(m of Scotland to a grand-master, who should be chosen by the brethren, and approved by the Crown, — who should be nobly born, or a clergy- man of high rank and character, — and who should have his deputies in the different towns and counties of Scotland. James II. conferred the office of grand- master on William St. Clair, Earl of Orkney and Caithness, and made it hereditary in the family of his descendants, the Barons of Eoslin. Earl William and his successors held their head-courts, or assembled their grand-lodges, in Kilwinning, as the seat of the earliest fraternity. An uncommon spirit for free-masonry becoming difiused, many lodges were formed throughout the kingdom, re- ceiving their charters of erection from the Kilwin- ning lodge, and combining its name with their own in their distinctive titles. In 1736, William St. Clair of Roslin, obliged to sell his estates, and destitute of an heir, resigned to an assembly of the lodges of Edinburgh and its vicinity, all claim to the grand-mastership, and empowered them, iii common with the other lodges of the country, to declare the office elective. On St. Andrews'-day of that year, the representatives of about 32 lodges received the resignation, elected William St. Clair himself their grand-master, set an example which has ever since been followed, of testifying respect for the part he acted, and constituted themselves into the grand-lodge of Scotland, — an institution whose influence or power has in a great measuie sliorn the ancient Kilwinning lodge of its peculiar honours, or at least superseded it in its paramount place among the lodges. Yet, whoever takes any interest in free-masonry, still looks with feelings of pride or veneration to the Kilwinning lodge. Kilwinning is remarkable also for its continuation to the present time, almost uninterruptedly, of that practice of archery which was anciently enjoined by acts of the Scottish parliament upon the young men of every parish. Its compan_v of archers are known, though imperfectly, and only by tradition, to have existed prior to the year 1488; but from that j'ear downward, they are authenticated by documents. Originally enrolled by royal authority, they appear to have been encouraged by the in- mates of the abbey; and they, in conseriuence. KIXBEACHIE. 221 KINCAKDINE. mstituted customs which easily secured their sur- viving the discontinuance of archery as the principal art of war. Once a-year, generally in the month of June, they make a grand exhibition. The principal shooting is at a parrot, anciently called the papingo, and well known under that name in heraldrj^, but now called the popinjay. This used to be con- structed of wood; but in recent years hns consisted of feathers worked up into the semblance of a parrot; and is suspended by a string to the top of a pole, and placed 120 feet high, on the steeple of the town. The archer who shoots down this mark is called "the Captain of the popinjay;" and is master of the ceremonies of the succeeding year. Every pei-son acquainted with Sir Walter Scott's novels, will recognize the Kilwinning festival, though tictioned to be on a different arena, in the opening scene of Old Mortality, when young Milnwood achieves tlie honours of captnin of the popinjay, and becomes bound to do the honours of the Howif. Another kind of shooting is practised for prizts at butts, point-blank distance, about 26 yarils. The prize, in this case, is some useful or ornamental piece of plate, given annually to tiie company by tlie senior surviving archer. KIMELFORD. See Kilxixvei;. KIMMERGH.VM. See Eurom. KIN-. See Keax-. KINALDY. See Duxixo. KINBEACHIE. a small lake at tlie western ex- tremity of the parish of Resolis, in Ross-shire. Its s'.iperflnence forms the burn of Resolis. KINBEAN, a hill, containing an inexhaustible supply of peat-moss for fuel, in the parish of Aber- dour, in Aberdeenshire. KINHETTOCK. See TomE. KINRLITHMONT. See Inverkeilloe. KINBROOM. See Fyvie. KINBUCK, a village in the parish of Dunblane, 2i miles north-north-east of tlie town of Dunblane, in Perthsliire. It has a station on the Scottish Central railwav. Population, 131. Houses, 14. KINCAID. ' See Campsie. KINCAIRXIE, a village in the parish of Caputh, Perthshire. Population, 83. Houses, 20. KINCALDRUM, a post-oflice station and an estate, iji the parish of Inverarity, on the road from Forfar to Dundee, Forfarshire. KINCAPLE, a village in the northern district of tliL- parish of St. Andrews, 3 miles west-north-west of tlie town of St. Andrews, Fifeshire. Population, 186. Houses, 40. KINCARDINE, a parish lying on the northern b(n-der of Ross-shire, and comprising two detached portions of Cromartyshire. It adjoins the post- odice village of Bonar; and is bounded by the county of Sutherland, and by the parishes of Ed- dertown, Rosskeen, Fodderty, and Lochbroom. Its length eastward is upwards of 35 miles; and its lireadth is from 5 to 20 miles. Part of its bound- ary-line with Sutherlandshire is the Altax-nax- Ceat.gach, — which see; but a much greater part is the river (Jikel, together with the upper portion of that river's long narrow estuary, called the Kyle, or Upper Dornoch frith. The parish, at its east end, is narrow; but it gradually widens, till, at the western e.xtremity, wliere ' the forest of Balnagown ' — -which is a group of rixde hills of great extent — is situated, it is 20 miles in breadth. It consists of a luimber of straths or glens, watered by rivulets, and of mountains covered with fine soft heath, and affording excellent sheep-walks. The coast of the Kvle is tiat and sandy, and aflbrds safe harbours for sinall vessels. There are several salmon-fishings. Knockbiniy, a mountain on the boundary witli Assynt in Sutherlandshire, abounds witli marble both white and coloured; and on Cairnehuinai.- a* loftv mountain in the interior, topazes sinnlar to those of Cairngorm have been found. There are eight landowners,— all non-resident; and the real rental is about £5,000. The assessed pio- perty in I860 was £6.860. A snnguinary contest, called the battle of Tniteam-Tarbhach, was fou^jit in this parish, in the 14th centurv, between the Macleods and the Mackays. The last battle of the Marquis of Montrose also was fought here, at a place called Craigcaoineadhan, in April 1650, whence he fled into Assynt, where he was cap- tured. Both battks seem to have been rather on- slaughts tlian aftairs of strategy; and the former lias left a dismal memonMl in a small unenclosed burying-ground, where its victims were buried; while the latter is commemorated in the present name of its locality, which entirely superseded the previous name, and signifies " the'Rock of Lamen- tation." The hamlet or kirktown of Kincardine stands on the coast of the Kyle, within a mile of the eastern bnundary of the" parish, and about 2 miles south-east of Bonar-Bridge, and has a small harbour. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,887; in 1861. 1.746. Houses, 380. This parish is in the presbyterv of Tain, and synod of Ross. Patron, the Marchioness of Staf- ford. Stipend. £278 2s.; glebe, £8 16s. School- master's salary, £35, with about £5 fees. 'i'lie parisli church was built in 1799, and contains 600 sittings. The quoad sacra parish of Croick lies wholly witliin Kincardine; and the mission district of Roseliall lies partly within it. See Croick and JiosEiiAi.i,. Tliere is a Free church of Kincardine: attendance, 450; receipts in 1865. £125 13s. 8d. There are seven non-parochial schools, a paiochial library, and a reading-club. KINCARDINE, a'parish in the district of Men- teith, about tlie middle of the southern verge of Perthshire. It contains the post-office village of Thornliill. and the post-office station of Blair-Druni- mond, and the villages of Norrieston, Kirklane, and Woodlane. It consists of two parts, both bounded on the south by the river Forth, and detached from each otiier, at the average distance of 2^ miles, by the soutliern part of the parish of Kilmadock. The larger or eastern section stretches between the Forth and the Teith, from their point of confluence westward, 4 miles in a straight line up the lormer, and 4J up the latter; and measures on its west side, or along the boundary witli Kilmadock, 2f miles. The lesser or western section stretches northward between Port-of-Mon teith on the west, and Kil- madock on the east, to an extended wing of the latter parish on the north, in a stripe of mean lengtii 3J miles, and of mean breadth Ij mile. The Teith divides the larger section from Kilmadock and Le- crojit on tiie north-east; and the Forth divides both sections from Stirlingshire on the south. In con- sequence of the Forth bending from its general easterly course, and making a sweep 1^ or If mile northward to the point of junction with the Teith, the area of the parish is greater than would appear fi'om the measurement we have stated, and is sup- posed to amount to about 7,500 imperial acres. Goodie-water runs If mile along the western bound- ary of the smaller section, and the same distance south-eastward through it, to fall into the Forth, in the intervening projection of the parish of Kil- madock. Both this stream and the Forth are here dark-coloured in their waters, and have a muddy bottom; and both in the bulk of their united volume, and in the beauty of their banks, they are excelled by the Teith. The surface of the parish KINCARDINE. 222 KINCARDINE. consists, over two-tliirds of its extent which stretch upwards from tlie Forth, of carse- lands, and over tlio remainint:; tliird on the nortli of dryfiehl. The greater part of it is nearly a dead level; and the only elevated part of it is a very jrentle ridge which commences at the mansion of lilair-Drumniond, and ascends westward hy easy undnlations, from ahout 4U to ahout iiUO feet of altitude ahovc the level of the sea, at the highest part of the road from Thoridiill to Callander, 'i'liis ridge slopes laterally to tlie Teith on the north, and to the earse on the south; and lying in the widest part of the strath of Men- teith, screened in the distance hy the Benlomond- liilis on the west, Itenledi on the north-west, 15en- voirlich and ?>toontachronc on the north, the Ochils on the east, and the hill-chain df Stirlingshire on the soutii, it is the centre of a finely-featured and warmly-tinted pictxu'e, set in a I'ranie of superhness and grandeur. The soil of the dr}-field district is a light loam, formerly studded with numerous bould- ers, which greatly ohstructed tillagi^ till they were blown with gunpowder, and removed. The soil of the carse district is a rich blue elay, lying upon a bed of gravel, which comes near the surface at the northern extremity, and thence dii)s at the rate of one foot in a hundred toward the Forth, allowing a great average depth to the superincumbent clay. At various depths, the carse has many thin be<]s of shells, particularly of oysters. Alxiut 85 yeais ago, nearly one-hnlf of the whole carse-lands were covered with a deep bog, well-known under the name of the Kincardine-moss, which was of no other value than for its produce in peats; and, owing to the boldness and novelty- of the processes by which it was rendered arable and richly luxuriant, has obtained more notoriety than probably any otlier scene of agricultural improvement. Various methods of improvement were tried, so slow in their progress, so limited in their range, and of so little value in their results, that a doubt arose whether the arena of them would not have been worth more to the proprietor had it been the bed of a lake. Ilemy Home, Lord Karnes, a senator of the college of justice, and the distinguished author of several leai'ned publications, within whose estate of Blair- iJrummond the moss lay, conceived the project of cutting it away piece-meal, and sending it adrift on the Forth; and having commenced operations, was succeeded in the conducting of them by Mr. IIi)me Drummond, his son and heir. See the article Blair- iJuuMMoxD. Very little moss now remains in the parish; and even that little is in process of extinc- tion. About 350 acres are under wood, about 5(10 are in permanent pasture, 142 are waste moor, and all the rest, exceptnig the remains of the moss, are under the plough. About two-thirds of the entire area belong to Mr. Home Drununoiid; and the lest is distributed among 20 landowners. The average rent of the carse land is aboitt £2 7s. per acre; of the diyfield, £1 7s. Assessed property in 18G0, £14,657. There are in the parish two meal mills, a saw-mill, and a tile-work. Sandstime is quarried, both for house-building and for road-inaking. There is, in the vicinity of Blair-Drummond, a tumulus, called Wallace's Trench, 63 yards in circumference, which, on being opened, was found to have been sepulchral. There are, within the grounds of Blair- J>rummond, two much larger tunuili, which have not been opened. There were found, in the course of the georgical operations on the moss-lands, a number of portable Koman antiquities, and a con- siderable stretch of Koman road. There was also found, imbedded in the clay under the moss, a por- tion of the skeleton of a whale. The parish is tra- versed by the roads from Stirling to Port-of-Mon- teith and to Callander; it is connected \vith Stirling- shire by a susjiension biidge. eiectcd in 1831 from a design by Smith of Deanston; and it will derive Ijcnefit from the oj)ening, through Gargunnock. o{ the Forth and Clyde railway. I'opulation in 1831. 2,456; in 1861, l",77S. Houses, 336. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunblane, and synod of I'erth and Stirling. I'atron, Lady Wil- loughliy dc lCresl)y. Stipend, .£255 8s. Id.; glebe, £14. Unapprojjriated teinds, £401 9s. 7d. School- master's salary now is £64, with about £14 fees, and £12 f)tlier emoluments. The parish church is an elegant Gothic structure, built in 181G, and con- taining 770 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Norriston, 4 miles west of the parish church, built in 1812, repaired in 1833. and containing 870 sittings. There is a Free church at Norriston; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1S65 was £100 Os. 6d. There are four non-parochial schools. 'J'lie ancient church of Kincariline be- longed to the abbey (^f Cambuskenneth. KINCAKDINE, a post-town and sea-port in the parish of 'I'ulliallan, on the southern verge of the detached district of Perthshire. It stands on tlie shore of the frith of Forth, 4 miles west -north-west of Culross, 5 south-east of Alloa, and 22 soutii- south-wcst of I'erth. The name Kincardine has been iuterpietcd to signify cither '• the head of the shore," or "the head or meeting-place of friends:'" and it evidently bears the former of these senses, both as applied to this town and as applied to Kincardine in !Monteith. The frith of Forth manifestly ex- tended at one time far above Stirling, de])ositing all the clay of the carses, as well that which ever lay bare after the retiring of the waters, as that w-hicii subsequently became overgrown with moss; and in the course of the fiitli retiring farther and farther to the east, it probably had the head of its shore for curraehs at Kincardine in Monteith, when the first church of that place was foitnded, and the head of its shoie for sea-borne vessels at Kincardine in Tulliallan, when the original houses of this town were built. Even yet the frith so narrows here, though afterwards slightly expanding, as to have rendered this place, up to the recent epoch of the opening of railways, the grand I'erry station on the route of direct connection between all Fifeshire and Kinross-shirc on the one hand, and all the south- west of Scotland on the other; while, for a long peiiod, the commerce here was a commerce for nearly all places round the head of the frith, just as the commerce at Leitli was a commerce ior nearly all places along the lower parts of its south side, and the connnerce of Kiikcaldy was a central com- merce for places along the lower part of its ninth side. The town of Kincardine has been very irregularly built. Most of the houses are of one story, and covered with tile; but the newer ones are of two or three stories, and covered with slate. The parisli church of Tulliallan is in the town, and is an ele- gant modern building; here also are a Free church and an United I'resbyterian church; here too, and in the neighbourhood, are some good villas; and the town, as a whole, exhibits unmistakable marks of past importance and present well-doing; yet is the aggregate appearance of the place not at all prepossessing. The vess;els belonging to it comprise about 9,000 tons, and are worth about £108,000. There are about 50 shipowners; but they mainly buy or build their vessels elsewhere, and employ them in the trade of the Mediterranean, the ^Vest indies, South America, the East Indies, and Australia. Ship-building was once important here, so many as nine vessels being sometimet KINCARDINE. 223 KINCAEDINESHIRE. Bimultaneously on the stocks; but tliat trade has pjveatly declined. Extensive distilleries, salt-works, <'ind collieries, which formerly gave large employ- ment to the inhabitants, are extinct. Bat there are still a sail-cloth factory, and a rope-work; and a few persons are employed in the weaving of plain linen cloths and damasks. The quay or pier is good; and the roadstead adjacent to it is capable of accom- modating 100 large vessels. Kincardine has a station on the Stirling and Dunfermline railway, and is a regular place of call for the Stirling and Granton steamers. It has two good inns, three in- surance agencies, and branch-offices of the Union bank and the Commercial bank. It is a burgh-of- birony, and is governed by a bnilie. Sheriff small debt courts are held on the first Monday of February, May, August, and November. Two extensive em- bankments were recently formed along the Forth adjacent to it, respectively on its west side and its east side, for the reclaiming of valuable land from the tide, with the incidental effect of improving the local climate. The embankment on the west is 11 feet high and 2,020 yards long, was completed in 1823, at the cost of £(3,104, and reclaimed 152 acres of land; and that on the east is 16 feet high and 3,040 yards long, was completed in 1839, at the cost of nearly £14,000, and reclaimed 214 acres of land. Pnpulati'on of the town in 1841, 2,875; in 1861, 2,166. Houses, 450. KINCARDINE, a decayed village in the parish of Fordoun, 4 miles west-south-west of Auchinblae, Kincardineshire. Adjacent to it are the ruins of an ancient castle, a seat of royalty, noticed in our article Castletox of Kixc\1!Dixe. The village is now diminished to a few houses ; but it once extended from the ground at the foot of the castle to the vici- nity of Fettereairn-house. It was anciently the county town, and still gives its name to the coimty; and it continued to bo the seat of the sheriff's courts till the time of James YI., when they were removed to Stonehaven. It had its church, its cemeterj', its east port, its west port, and its market cross; the last of which was carried off to Fettercaim, and still figures there. Several places in the vicinity of the village and the castle continue to bear names which indicate their ancient grandeur. KINCARDINE, Inverness-shire. See Aberxethy. KINCARDINE-GLEN, a beautifully romantic glen, traversed by the rivulet Madrany, in the par- ish of Blackford, Perthshire. The Scottish Central railway crosses this glen by stupendous works, the middle portion of which is a viaduct of si.x arches, nearly 100 feet above the stream. On the grounds of the glen are the ruins of an ancient ducal castle. See Blackford. KINCAEDINE-O'NEIL, the south-western dis- trict of Aberdeenshire. It comprehends all the up- per part of the basin of the Dee, as much of the central portion of that basin as belongs to Aberdeen- shire, a small part of the lower portion of that basin, and a small part of the right side of the central poi"- tion of the basin of the Don. Its general character may be readily inferred from our articles Aberdeen- shirk and Dee (The). It comprises the parishes of Craithie and Braemar, Glenmuick, Tulloch, and Glen- gairn, Logie-Coldstone, Tarland, Coull, Aboyne and Glentannar, Birse, Lumphanan, Kincardine-O'Neil, Midmar, Clun)-, and Echt. Its length, in the direc- tion of east by north, is 57 miles; and its breadth varies from 8 to 10 miles. Population in 1831, 15.415; in 1861, 15,725. Houses, 3,052. KINCARDINE-O'NEIL. a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, in the Kincardine- O'Neil district of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded on south-east and south bv Kincardineshire, and on otlun- sides by the parishes of Birse, Aboyne, Lum- phanan, Tougli, Cluny, and Midmar. Its length southward is upwards of 8 miles; and its greatest breadth is upwards of 5 miles. The river Dee traces tlie south-western boundarj^, dividing this parish from Aboyne and I'irse. Beity burn traverses the interior of the parish in a south-easterly direction, bisecting it into nearly equal parts, and passes into Kincardineshire, to "fall speedily there into the Dee. A streamlet, called the Neil, drains the western wing of the parish into the Dee, at a point where that river is on the boundary; and this streamlet, by washing the site of the ancient church, which is also that of the present village, gave rise to the suffix of the name Kincardine-O'Neil. The surface of the parish may be described as comprising three straths, or parts of straths, together with consider- able intervening hills. The southern and the central straths have an elevation of from 400 to 500 feet above the level of the sea; and the northern strath is higher. Tlie hill which divides the southern strath from the central one is Ordfundlie ; that which divides the central strath from the northern one is Learney ; and this may not improperly be regarded as a continuation of the hill of Fare, part of which is on the eastern boundar}'. See Fare (Hill of). There are in the parish upwards of 2,000 acres of plantation. The rocks are variously sand stone, trap, and granite. There are 12 landownei'S. The principal residences in the parish are those of Kincardine, Learney, Desswood. Camfield, Craig- myle, and Stranduff. There are 6 saw-mills and 5 meal mills. The real rental in 1842 was about £6,000; the estimated value of raw produce in that year, £17,576; the value of assessed property in 1860, £P,042. The village of Kincardine-O'Neil st«ands on the side of the Dee, and on the road from Aberdeen to Ballater, 5 miles east l^y south of Charleston of Aboyne, 8 west-north-west of Ban- chory, and 25 west b}' south of Aberdeen. Its sit- uation is a pleasant one, and commands an extensive view along the valle}' of the Dee, and up to its en- closing mountains. This village is deemed an ex- cellent summer resort for invalids. A bede-house for eight old men was founded here in the . Roman Catholic times by a bishop of Aberdeen, but became extinct at the Reformation. Fairs are held on the second Tuesday of May, and on the Wednesday and Thursday after the last Tuesday of August, ail old style. Population of the village, about 300. Pop- ulation of the parish in 1831, 1,936; in 1861, 2 186. Houses, 403. This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the' synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Sir W. Forbes, Bart. Stipend, £232 4s.; glebe, £12. Unappropriated teinds, £162 15s. 7d. The parish church is an old edifice, burnt down and restored in 1733, and repaired in 1799 and 1820, and containing 640 sittings. There is a Free church: attendance, 250; sum raised in 1865, £102 lis. Id. There are three parochial schools, with average salary of £25 each and about £20 fees, and all aifed by the Dick bequest. There are four other schools and three cireulating libraries. KINCARDINESHIRE — populariy called The Mearxs— a maritime county of the east side of Scot- land. It is bounded on the north by Aberdeenshire, from which, in a great measure, it is divided by the river Dee; on tlie east, by the German ocean; and on the south and west, by Forfarshire, from which it is mainly divided by the North Esk. Its outline is triangular, with the most acute angle stretching north-eastward to the vicinity of Aberdeen, and ♦er- minating at Girdleness. Its greatest length is along the coast-boundary south-westward, 32 miles; and its greatest breadth, from east to west, is 24 miles KINCAKDINESHIRE. 224 KINCARDINESHIRE. The county is naturally divided into four districts, — the Grampian, tlie Dee-side, the How of Mearns, and the Coast-side. The Grampian or mountain district consists of the eastern terminatioa of what is popuUxrly called the lower chain of that mi.uhty rampart of ancient independence, the Grampian range: see Grampians. This sterile, ruptEfed, dreary region stretches from west to east, througli the" whole breadth of the county, softening down almost to the verge of the ocean", and separating the Doc-side district, on the north, from the How of Mearns, on the soutli. Kis ing, in the midst of highly cultivated land, about 3 miles from the coast, with a height of 500 to 600 feet — if not rather forming, first of all, the promo_nt«»ry of Girdlencss itself — it rajiidly increnses in altitude, with a vast congeries of dark })rown hills, until, at the western extremity of the district, about 20 miles from the sea, Mount ]5attock, nearly 3,500 feet above sea-level, towers in height beyond them all. On the top of this mountain, Kincardineshire meets the counties of Fdrfar and Aberdeen. About il miles eastward is Cloehnaben, or the White stone hill, remarkable for a protuberance of solid rock on its summit, about 100 feet in perpendicular height, appearing, from the sea, like a watch-tower, and forming an excellent land-mark to coasting vessels. About 4 miles from Cloehnaben is Kerlook, from the top of which, at an altitude of 1,900 feet, is commanded a most noble view over the greater part of Aberdeenshire to the north, and over extensive recrions to the south, as far even as the Lammennuir hills in East Lothian. Six miles to the north-east is Cairnmanearn, almost covered over its whole sur- face with great blocks of granite. Cairniemount, in the south front of the Grampians, is about 2,500 feet in height, — over it passes the puldic road froiu the Howe to the Dee-side. Strathfinella, also on the south, is remarkable for the manner in which it stands isolated from the main body of the ridge, being cut off l)y a narrow vale, of very pleasant aspect, but in many places not 100 yards in breadth. In summer the glens and deep hollows .among the Grampians are somewhat enlivened by the fringe of green pasture springing up by the sides of the diffei-ent brooks, which alternately become either dry channels or furious torrents ; but there reigns throughout even these a cheerless, gloomy solitude, devoid, except in a very few places, of human habitation or of marks of liuman industry. In some of them, however, are spots of surpassing natural beauty. The Kincardineshire section of the Gram- pians is, on an average, from 16 to 18 miles in length, by 6 to 8 in breadth. Square area 120 miles, or nearly 80,000 acres. The Dee-side district extends from the sea west- ward, along the southern bank of the Dee for about 13 miles, and then along both banks 9 or 10 miles further; and comprehends also the valley of the Feugh. In this district, which is peculiar!}- favour- able to the growth of timoer, the face of the country is highly embellished by plantations, which here occupy a greater proportion of land than in any other part of the county ; the fir-plantations extend- ing, in some places, to the summits of the adjoin- ing hills. At many points, especially in the vicini- ty of the rising v.alley of Banchory, the prospect along the Dee is rich and beautiful. That part of the district which lies north of the river, and to which the preceding observations most specially apply, is much diversified in heights and flats, and lias a southern exposure. It contains about 26 square miles, or 16,640 acres. The southern por- tion of the district contains about 54 square miles, or 34,560 acres. The Howe district is a low, champaign, and highly cultivated country, diveisified and ornamented by thriving plantations, gentlemen's seats, and villages. The ground being, in many places, composed of a bright red clay, gi%'es the surface, when newly ploughed, a very peculiar, but rich, warm, and pleasing appearance, finel}' relieved with the green plantations, grass fields and hedges. Tliis district constitutes the eastern termination of the great strath or valley of Stiathmore, extending south- westwardly from Stonehaven, in this county, with trifling interruptions, to the frith of Clyde. Its length, within Kincardineshire, is about 16 miles. It is about 5 miles in breadth at the westeini boun- dary; but it narrows towards the enst, till, at the water-shed. 4 miles west of Stonehaven, it is little more than half-a-mile broad. It is sheltered from the cold northern blasts by the towering Grampians, which here present a wall rising from 500 to 2,500 feet above the level of the Howe; while, from the ungenial easterly wiiuls,it is protected by the heights of Garvock and Arbuthnot, Ibrming a range of hills with here and there an altitude of 500 feet, and, in most places, displaying a surface cultivated nearly to the suHunit. By the continuation of the Sidlaw hills, extending from that I'ange, and including it, the surface on the southern border of the county, more especially along the banks of the North Esk, is nnrch diversified with hill and dale. The Howe of the Mearns constitutes the only proper access to the north of Scotland, owing to the hills and moun- tains occupying, uninterruptedly, the whole breadth of the country, except at this point; and it has, therefoi'e, been the common passage for armies since the earliest periods of history, — yet it does not ap- pear to have been the scene of any great military achievement. The square area of the Howe district is about 50 miles, or 32,000 acres. The Coast -side district is subdivided. From Stonehaven southwards to the Korth Esk it extends about 18 or 20 miles in length, by 4 to 5 in breadth, flanked, on the west, by numerous hills not exceed ing 500 feet in height, some of which, generally the most barren, cross it, and terminate close to the sea, particularly between Stonehaven and Bervie. The shore is bold, rising, in general, from lOO to 300 feet in height, and presenting a perpendicular face of rock; whence the country expands inland into plain and highly cultivated fields, laid out in all directions, according as the rivulets or deep ra- vines bend their course to the ocean from the con- terminous hills. The most conspicuous range of rocks here is Fowlsheugh, noted as a rendezvous, during sunmier, of innumerable flocks fif sea-fowl of various kinds. In the face of this rock are several caverns with natural arches, galleries, &c. of great extent and magnificence. Notwithstanding the vicinity of the ocean, this part of the county is adorned with some thriving pljintations; and almost close to the shore itself are trees of considerable magnitude. From Stonehaven northward to the Dee the shore is also bold and rocky; but the face of the Country is generall)^ of a very inferior de- scription — as wretched and uninviting as can well be conceived. In the vicinity of Stonehaven and of Aberdeen, however, and in some other parts, tiie lands display a totally difterent appearance,- — strenu- ous and extraordinary exertions having been made for the improvement even of the most barren and unpromising localities. The square area of this northern division of the Coast-side district is about 45 uales, or 28,800 acres; that of the southeri) 85 miles, or 54,400 acres. The rivers Dee and North Esk. though belonging to Kincardineshire only in common with the con- KINCARDINESHIEE. 225 KINCARDINESHIRE. tigiious counties, are by mvicli the most conspicuous of its streams, and contribute a fine fringe-work of scenery to respectively its northern and its soutli- ern borders. Most of its interior streams rise either among the Grampians or among their offsets, and How to eitlier the German ocean, the Dee, or the North Esk. Tiie principal ones falling into the German ocean are the Cowie and the Carron, rising in the parish of Glenbervie, and flowing through Fetteresso to Stonehaven; and the Bervie. rising in Fordoun, and flowing between that parish and the parishes of Glenbervie and Arbuthnot, intersecting the latter in its course to Bervie. Those falling into the Dee are the Sheeoch, intersecting Durris parish; the Aan and the Dye, which rise near Mount Battock, and water the parisli of Strachan north- ward; and the Feiigh, which comes in from Aber- deenshire, drinks up the Aan and the Dye, and runs nortli-eastward to the Dee in the parisli of Ban- chory-Ternan. The only noticeable Kincardine- shire" stream running to the North Esk is the Lu- ther, which rises among the Grampians, in the parisli of Fordoun, by two principal sources, and falls into the Esk near Ballinaqueen. Tliese streams, though of inconsiderable magnitude, abound with trout and par; and their banks and overhanging trees, with knolls and braes adjoining, are, in many places, highlj' picturesque. No less so are many of the numerous other smaller streams and mountain- rivulets which enliven the stern alpine solitudes down which they flow. The Loeh-of-Leys is the largest lake in the county, being about 2 miles in circumference, and well-stored with pike. The ruins of an ancient edifice are here supported by piles of oak on an artificial island. The mineral treasures of the county are of no great value. Over the whole Grampian district granite is the most prevalent stone. The hill of Strathfinella, however — separated, as already no- ticed, from the Grampian range — is one entire mass of sandstone, perfectly isolated. Sandstone is the chief building material in the Howe district. Blocks or boulders of granite, both of a whitish colour like the granite of Aberdeen, and of a reddish colour like that of Peterhead, are scattered over all the country round tlie Grampians. The other prevail- ing rocks, especially along the coast, are basalt, greenstone, and breccia or plumpudding- stone. Limestone is found at Mathers on the Coast-side, whence considerable quantities are taken for man- ure and building purposes; it is also found in various other places, as at Tillywhilly, in the Dee- side district, and near Fettercairn, and at Laurence- kirk, in the Howe of Mearns ; but as no coal has yet been discovered, it is principally on the coast, where that important mineral can be more easily obtained, that limekilns are wrought to any con- siderable extent. At Stonehaven, and at Laurieston, in the Coast-side district, quarries of sandstone afford excellent and durable materials for building. At Whistleberry, in KinneflT parish, millstones of excellent quality are made from the pudding-rock found on the coast. Native iron has been found in a field at Balnakettle ; and indications of iron-ore are met with elsewhere throughout the county. In the vicinity of Cowie pipe-clay is dug for household purposes. Jaspers, porphyry, and specimens of as- bestos, have been found in different parts ; pebbles of great variety and beauty of colour, and some value, are procured in every brook, particularly in Arbuthnot and St. Cyrus ; and the Scottish topaz, or Cairngorm, is sometimes found amongst the Grampian streams. Zeolite is found ; and some of the caverns on the coast near Stonehouse abound with stalactites. The soils are very various. The Grampian dis- trict may, in general, be said to be as devoid of soil as of vegetation ; but there are considerable excep- tions, particularly along the base and lower altitudes of the exterior hills and slopes on the Mearns-side, where a deep rich loarii is fiequently found. The soil in the Dee-side district, south of the Dee, as in Durris and Maiyculter, is, in many parts, stony and thin, on a rocky substratum ; but there is also some fleep black loam,— though, on the river side, in !Mar_vculter, it is naturally thin and sandy. Clay and gravelly soils are also found. North of the Dee the soil consists chiefly of decomposed granite mixed with a portion of moss. It is not naturally very productive, though greatly ameliorate! by cultivation. Tlie soil on the southern side of the Grampians, in the Howe district, is pretty uniform in its nature. On the northern side of the Howe, fronting the south, it may he defined as a loam de- rived from gravel ; and on the opposite side, front- ing the north, a loam derived from clay. In both it resembles in colour the red or grey sandstone, the chief kind of quarried stone known in the district. Throughout the wliole it is commonly productive, vet with varieties in its fertility. The soil of the Coast-side, south of Stonehaven, is of every descrip- tion, in the lower parts, from the richest and most productive loam on clay or gravel, to the most worthless sand, clay, or moss. It is oddly inter- mixed, — entire wastes lying, in some places, con- tiguous to the most fertile fields. The greater pro- portion, however, is of the latter description, — some of the lanrls near the shore containing the most pro- ductive soils in the county. North of Stonehaven, as in Fetteresso and Dunottar, the soil is chiefly moss on a hard stony bottom, with a little clay, loam, &c. In Banchory-Devinick it is light, ami either mossy or sandy," and in various parts haa been much improved. The climate of this county is different in the different districts. In winter and _ spring, the weather in the mountainous parts is extremely severe, while in summer, especially in the deep glens amongst the Grampians, the atmosphere at times becomes insufferably hot. In the low country the climate has been improved of late years by the draining of bogs and mosses, and the spread of plantations; and it is now in no way inferior to the climate of other Scottish districts in the same lati- tude. The average heat on the east coast, in N lat. 56° 58'. and 150 feet above sea-level, between the years 1805 and 1816, was 43° 8'; the average "greatest heat 64° 4'. The average number of fair days in the year was 212. "Agncultu"re, in this county, has made rapid pro gress during tlie present century. The writer of the Old Statistical Account of Kinneff remarks, — and the same sentiment is repeated by Sir John Sinclair in his Statistical Analysis,— that "the farmers owe their superior skill aiid management to Mr. Barclay of Ury, — a gentlemen, whose acknowledged merit entitles him to have his name transmitted to pos- terity as the first, the most extensive, and judicious systematic improver of land in the north of Sco - land." The improvements thus begun about twenty years previous to the date of the Old Statistical "Account, — or in tlie middle of last century, — have been carried on with great spirit and success, down to the present time. Draining, trenching, planting, and enclosing, have been vigorously extended, and are still in progress; and the extraordinary exertions made to reclaim even tlie most forbidding and hope- less soils, already alluded to, are said to have been nowhere excelled. Since the construction of new roads, affording easy access to every part of tlu- P KINCAKDINESHIRE. 22G KINCARDINESHIRE. county, lime has been most extensively used as manure; upwards of 20,000 bolls having been im- ported yearly at Stonehaven alone i'or that purpose, exclusive of all that might be burnt in the county itself, or elsewhere imported. The most approved systems of husbandry are adopted, and the soil is cultivated in a style eiiual to any in Scotland. In the statistics of agriculture, obtained in 1854, for the Board of 'i'rade, by the Highland and Agi i- cultural Society of Scotland, 208.580 imperial acres in Kincardineshire were returned as in tillage, — 2.327 under wheat, 7,815| under barley, 2y,4">i under oats, 62 under rye, 004.^ under here or bigg, 474| under beans, 77J under pease, 182^ under vetciies, 16,087j under turnips, 2,645.| under po- tatoes. 5J under mangel wurzel, 21 uniler cari'ots, 8^ under cabbages, 37 under fl ix, 20 under turnip- seed, and 319| in bare fallow. The estimated gross produce was 72,137 bushels of wheat, 302.800 bushels of barley, 1,244,304 bushels of oats, 24,752 bushels of here or bigg, 16,497 bushels of beans, 225,228 tons of turnips, and 12,169 tons of potatoes. The estimated average produce per imperial acre was 31 busliels of wheat, oSJ bushels of barley, 42^ bushels of oats, 37^ bushels of here or -bigg, 34f bushels of beans, 14 tons of turnips, and 4 tons and 12 cwt. of potatoi-s. The number of acres not in tilhige comprised 36,96 1| under gniss in the lotation of the farm, 13,029 in permanent pasture. 1[}6^ in irrigated meadows. 59,041 J in sheep walks, 16, 652 J under wood, 19,466^ in a state of waste, and 3,003J in house-steads, roads, fences, &c. The numbers of live-stock comprised 3,835 horses, 6,616 milch cows, 6,316 calves, 12,477 other bovine cattle, 14,951 ewes, gininiers, and ewe hogs, 20,211 tups, wethers, and wether hogs, and 2,863 swine. The number of estates in Kincardineshire is up- wards of eighty, and some of the largest of tlicni have long been in the same families. About thir- teen of them are comparatively very large; about forty -three of medium size; and the i-emainder com- paratively small. The sheep farms in the hilly districts are generally of great extent; but the arable farms are verj' various in size, some of them from 400 to 500 acres, a large number about 200 acres, and many of them comparatively small. In 1855 no fewer than 715 holdings, comprising in the aggregate 3,625 acres of arable land, were rented each at less than £10. The valued rental of the county in 1674 was £74,921 Scots. The annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was £94.861; in 1849, £135,584. The rental in 1855, as ascertained under the new valuation act, was £153,788 19s. 1^;1. The average of the fiarprices from 1848 to 1854, both inclusive, was oatmeal, 15s. 0§d.; ■white oats, without fodder, I83. ll^d. ; white oats, ■with fodder, 26s. 7d. ; potato oats, ■ndthout fodder, 20s. .3yd. ; potato oats, with fodder, 27s. ll^d. ; here, without fovlder, 24s. 9^d.; here, witii fodder, 31s. 5d. ; peasj. without fodder, 27s. 6Jd. ; pease, with fodder, 35s. ^d.^, barley, without fodder, 26s. l^d.; barley, with fodder, 32s. 9d. ; wheat, without fodder, 48s. 1^1.; wheat with fodder. 56s. K'^d.; beans, without fodder, 29s. llgd.; and beans, with fodder, 37s. 8^d. Among the wild animals of Kincardineshire are the fo.x, the badger, the otter, the wild cat, the weasel, the polecat, and the hedgehog. Hares and rabbits swarm in extraordinary' numbers; and roe- deer are often found in the woods. Grouse abounds in the moors; black game is not uncommon; par- tridges are plentiful; and pheasants are on the incre.a.'^e. Woodcock, snipe, wild-duek, landrail, plover, teal, curlew, and heron are all more or less abundant; and wild geese, and occasionally swans, frcciucut the county between autumn and winter. Falcons and sparrow-hawks are often met with. The mountainous and moorland districts, altogether, have great attractions for the .sportsman. Some of the larger streams also ad'ord valuable salmon-fish- eries, while a number of the smaller ones are very inviting to the angler. The coast fisheries, parti- cularly in herring, haddock, skate, turbot, cod, and ling, are of such great extent as to engage the at- tention of the inhabitants of about fourteen fishing- villages, as well as of some of the inhabitants of tlie towns, scattered along the coast. Neither the manufactures nor the commerce of Kincardineshire are of much note. The ■weaving of coarse linen is carried on in various })laces for the houses in Aberdeen, ^lontrosc, Arbroath, and Dun- dee. There are several llax spinning mills, some little trade in the making of coarse woollen cloth, several distilleries and breweries, and a tair propor- tion of Avork in all the ordinary handicrafts. Lau- rencekirk shares with two towns in Ayrshire the fame of manufacturing finely-jointed wooden snuff- boxes. The only ports are Stonehaven, Gouidon, and Johnshaven, — all of small extent; yet con- siderable business is done through Aberdeen, and- some through Montrose. The principal exports are grain, potatoes, cattle, pork, butter, eggs, wliiskv, ale, fish, and granite; and the principal imports are coals, lime, timber, slates, salt, and groceries. 'J'he L)ee-si(le district of the county enjoys largely the benefits of the Dee-side laihvay; and the other dis- tricts, from Nigg to JIarykirk, ai'e traver-'^ed by the Aberdeen railway. The commutation roads of the county are classified into the five distiicts of St. Cjn'us, Laurencekirk. Stonehaven, Lower Dce-sidc, and Upper Dee-side; the piincipal cross roads are Slug road, the Netherby roads, and the South Dee- side load; and the turnpikes comprise the great lines of communication between the north and the south of Scotland, fro n the bridge of Dee to the Upper and Lower bridges over the North Esk. The only royal burgh in Kineaniineshire is riervie. The only bui'ghs-of-barony are Laurence- kirk, Fettercairn, and the old town of Stonehaven. The only town containing so many as 2,000 in- habitants, and also the county-town, is Stonehaven. The villnges and principal hamlets are Johnshavin, Auehinblae, Drumlithie, Banchory, St. Cvrus. lioad- side, Lochside, Milton, Tangleha, Gourdon, Marv- kirk, Luthermuir, Catterline, Ciawton, I'ortlethcn, Findon, Downie, Cove, Torry, and Bunibanks. Among the principal seats are, Glendye Lodge, the Earl of Southesk; Benholme- castle. Lord Crans- toun; Arbuthnott-house, Viscount Arbuthnott; In- glismaldie, the Earl of Kintore; Crathes, Sir James Horn Burnett, Bart.; Dunnottar-house, William N. Forbes, Esq.; Fettercairn. Sir J. S. Forbes, Bait.; Fasque-house, Sir Thoinas Gladstone, Bart.; Bal- main. Sir Alexander ]i;im-;;iy. Bart.; Fetteicsso- eastle. IJobert Duff, Esq.; Kiiigeausie, J. I. Bos- well, Iv«q.; Benlioline-house. Loiil Benholme; Mon- boddo, James B. Burnett, Esq.; Netherby, James Silver, Esq.; H:illgreen, James P'arqnhar, Esq.; Dun is. A. W. Mactier, Esq.; Drumtochtie cnstle, A. Gemmel. Esq.; Tillwhillv. Henrv Lumsden, Esq.; Blackball. Col. John "Campbell ; and the Burn, Lieut-Col. W. M'lnroy. Kincardineshire sends one member to parliament; and has its polling places at Bourtrie-Bush, Banchory-Ternan, Stonehaven, Drumlithie, Fetter- cairn, and Bush of Woodstone. The parliamentaiy constituency in 1855 was 954. The sheriff court, the commissary court, the sheriff" ordinary small debt court, are held at Stonehaven on every Wednesday during session. The sherift" circuit small debt courts are held at IJervie on the third KINCARDINESHIRE. 227 KINCLAVEN. Monday of January, April, July, and October; at Ijaurencekirk, on the first Monday of Febniar\-. June, and October; and at Durns on the second Monday of February, June, and October. The justice of pence small debt court is held at Stone- haven on the firet Monday of every month. The stations of the county police are Stonehaven, Port- lethen, Maiyculter, Banchory. Fettereairn, Mary- kirk, Aucbinblae. Laurencekirk, Johnsbaven, and Clashendrum. The number of committals for crime, in the year, \\nthin the county, was 23 in the average o"f 1836-1840, 18 in the average of 1841-1845,. 27 in the average of 1846-1850, and 22 in the average of 1851-1860. The sums p:»id for expenses of criminal prosecutions in the years 1846-1852 ranged from £448 to £1,036 a- year. The total number of persons confined in the jail at Stoneh;iven within the year ending 30th June, I860, was 87; the average duration of tlje confinement of each was 21 days; and the net cost of their confinement per head, after de- ducting earnings, was £34 lis. od. Seventeen par- ishes are assessed, and two unassessed, for the poor. Tlie number of registered poor in the year 1852-3 was 1,286; in the year 1860-1. 1,196. The number of casual poor in 1852-3 was 216; in 1860-1, 279. 'J'lie sum expended on the registered poor in 1852-3 was £5,814; in 1860-1, £7.759. The sum expended on (he casual poor in 1852-3 was £205; ill 1860-1, £222. The assessment for rogue-money is Jd. per £1 sterling, for police |d., and for prisons ^d. Population of the county in 1801, 26,349; in 1811,27,439; in 1821.29,118; in 1831, 31,431; in 1841, 33,075; in 1861, 34,466. Males in 1861, K;. 744, females, 17,722. Inhabited bouses in 1861, 6,697 ; uninhabited, 254; building, 45. There are in Kincardineshire 18 entire quoad civilia parishes, parts of three other quoad civilia parishes, and 1 chapel of ease. Thirteen of the par- ishes constitute the presbytery of Fordoun, in the synod of Angus and Mearas; one of the parts is in the presbytery of Brechin, in the synod of Angus and Mearns; two of the parishes are in the pi'esby- tery of Kincardine O' Neil, in the synod of Aberdeen ; and three of the parishes, two of the parts, and the chapel of ease, are in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen. In 1851, the number of places of wor- ship within Kincai'dineshire was 53; of which 20 belonged to the Established church. 17 to the Free church, 3 to the United Presbyterian church, 7 to the Episcopalians, 3 to the Independents, 2 to the I Baptists, and 1 to the Koman Catholics. The num- ber of sittings in 18 of the Established places of worship was 13,883; in 14 of the Free church places of worship, 0,613; in the 3 United Presby- teiisj,n meeting-houses, 1,160; in 6 of the Episco- palian chapels, 1.229; in 2 of the Independent chapels, 600; and in the two Baptist chapels, 290. The maximum attendance on the Census Sabbath, at 16 of the Established places of worship was 7,098; at 15 of the Free church places of worship, 3.908; at the 3 United Presbyterian meeting houses, 574; at the 7 Episcopalian chapels, 717; at 2 of the Independent chapels, 140; and at the two Baptist chapels, 290. There were in 1851, in Kincardine- shire, 77 public day schools, attended by 2,335 males and 1,490 females, — 47 private day schools, attended by 484 males and 847 females, — 3 evening schools for adults, attended by 42 males, — and 90 Sab- bath schools, attended by 2,187 males and 2,545 females. Kincardineshire has figured very little in history. Such incidents as possess any interest or importance will be found detailed under the special localities with which they were innnediatcly connected. The most interesting antiquities are Dunnottar castle, formerly the chief seat of the great Earls Marischal] now an extensive and singular ruin; the ruins of the castle of Finella, noted for its curious legend; part of the Kame-of-Mathers, an ancient strong- hold, pitched, like an eagle's nest, on the point ofa projecting rock, in the parish of St. Cyrus; Oreen- castlc, Kinneff-castle. the castle of Morphie, Whiste- berry-castle, the Thane of Cowie's-castle, whose ruins, or at least sites, are still pointed out; and th-i vestiges of that ancient seat of royalty, Kincardine- castle, adjacent to the extinct town of Kincardine, from which the county has its name. In Fordoun and near Stonehaven are remains of Roman camps; and at Eaedykes are remains of an ancient camp which has been pronounced by some antiquaries Roman, and by others Caledonian. In Turris and at Aquhorties are Druidical circles. On the top of Gar- vock hill are two large Druidical cairns; and in the same neighbourhood is the SlierifF's kettle, where the laird of Glenbervie was boiled to death in the reign of James L The name Mearns, popularly applied to the county, is probably a word of local meaning, but is commonly supposed to have been derived from Mernia, a brother of Kenneth IL, on whom the territory, comprising the modern county, was conferred. 'The men o' the Mearns' has been a proverbial expression from very old times, in- dicating a character for feats of skill and strength. Hence an old saying in the suriounding districts, ' I can dae fat I dow: the men o' the Mearns can dae nae mair.' KINCHARDINE. See Abernethv. KINCHAT. See Benholme. KINCLAVEN, a parish, containing the village oi Arntully, in the distiict of Stormont, Perthshire. Its post-town is Meikleour, adjacent to its north- east border. It is bounded on the north by Caputb, on the east by Cargill, on the south by Aucliter- gaven, and on the west by Auchtergaven and Little Dunkeld. It is of nearly an oval form, ex- tending north-eastward and south-westward; and measures 4f miles in extreme length, and 3 miles in extreme breadth. The Tay ciicles round moie than one-half of its whole frontier, coming in on the north-west, flowing in large and sweeping sinuo- sities round the north, receiving the Isla on the north-east, and leaving the parish on the south. Including windings, it i-uns along the boundary over a distance of at least 10 miles; and almost cverv- where wears marks of destructiTcness and impetuo- sity which do not in general characterize its course. Though embankments were early thrown up along its course, it has at various periods cut them down, and made large invasions on tli'j rich corn-fields which they were designed to protect. Three or four desolate tracts which it has abandoned, and several islets "in its present channel, are evidences of its power and fury. Just before leaving the parish, it forms a cascade, and falls into a very deep linn, called the Linn of Campsie. Nearly in the centre of the parish, is a lake half-a-mile in length, whence a stream, sufficient in water-power to drive machinery, rui>6 eastward to the Tay. The parochial surface rises gently from the Tay, and is diversified with rising grounds, all ac- cessible to the plough, and of inconsiderable eleva- tion. Along the north and east it is well cultivati;d and enclosed, and in some parts wooded ; but in the interior, and towai-d the west, it yields only patidies to the plough, and has expaiwes of unkindly moor- land. The total extent in tillage is 3,900 imperial acres; under wood, 1,500 acres; in moorland or improveable pasture, 800 acres; and in lakes or moss, 1,200 acres. The soil, in most parts, is light KINDALLACIIAN. '2-2S KINFAUNS. and sharp; in a small part on the south-west, is a rich black loam ; and in the nioorhinds, has an inter- mixture of mossy earth. There are five landowners ; and the real rental in 1843 was ahont £4,800. Tlie value of assessed property in 1865-6 was £6,821 6s. 3d. The salmon fishings are highly valuable at several stations on the Tay. The principal an- tiquity is Kinclaven-castle, a ruin on the Tay, opposite the mouth of the Isla, anciently a royal residence, and said to have been built by Malcolm Canmore. One of the cliapters in the well-known metrical history of 8ir William Wallace is partly occupied in descriliing how that hero '• won Kin- claven." This parish is traversed by the road from Dunkeld to Perth, and has ready access to the Stanley station of the Dunkeld-road branch of the Scottish Midland railway. Population in 1831, 890; in 18()l,7o8. Houses, 1&2. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunkrld, and synod of I'erth and Stirling. Patron. Richardson of P>allathie. Stipend, i."276 lis. 5d. ; glebe, £18. Schoolmaster's salary now is £45, with about £24 fees, and about £7 other emoluments. The parish church is an old building, containing 320 sittings. There is an United Presbyterian church, which is one of the original seats of the Secession, and has always been attended by a prosperous congregation. There is a private school in Arntnlly. Kinclaven ferry is a passage station on the 'I'ay, with a chain boat or flying bridge. KINCKAIG. See Kilcoxqliiar and Eakls- FEi:i:v. KINCRAIGIE. See Alfokd. KINDACE. See Kilmuir-Eastkr. KINDALLACHAN, a village in the parish of Dowally, about a mile distant from the church of Dowally, in Perthshire. KINDER (Loch), a lake IJ mile south of the village of Newabbey, in the south-east part of New- abbey parish, Kirkcudbrightshire. It is 1|- mile long from north-west to south-east, and | of a mile broad. It abounds with fronts, and produces bul- rushes and reeds. It receives on the north Glen- burn, a stream of 3 miles in length of course, and discharges its surplus waters by a stream running 2 miles south-eastward to the Solway frith. Rising (3 or 7 feet above the surface of the lake, is an artificial mount of stones, resting on a frame of large oak, and supposed to have bei^n constructed as a place of safe stowage for goods from the niaiaudings of the Borderers. The sunounding manor, which anciently constituted the parish, bore the name of the lake, Loch-kinder. Even the whole of the present parish, previous to the erection of the church at Newabbey, was called Loch-kinder, or, by an absurd pleonasm, Loch-kinder-loeh. On an islet in tlie laive stood the original parish-church. KINDY (The). See Gr.ENKnvny. . KINEARNY, an ancient parish in ths district of Kiucardine-O'Neil, Aberdeensiiire. now divided be- tween the parishes of Cluny and Midmar. It is 6 miles north-west of Skene. KINEDAR. See King-Edward. KINEDER. See Draixje. KINELLAN. See Contin. KINELLAR, a parish, containing the post-office station of Blackburn, in tlie Abenleen-propcr dis- trict of Aberdeenshire. It is boundeil by Fintray, Dyce, Newhills, Skene, and Kintore. Its length south-westward is about 4 nules; and its breath no- where much exceeds 2 miles. Tlie river Don traces its northern boundary; and the town of Kintore is within 2 miles of its north-west border. It enjoys large facilities of coinmunication bv means of the Great North of Scotland railway. Its surface is un- dulating, and much exposed ; though the eminences are partly covered with wood. E.Kcepting the small aggregate of woodland, and a patch or two of rocky moor, the whole parish is under the plough. There are seven landowners; and the real rental is about £3,000. Assessed property in 1860, £4,303. A large heathy undivided common lies between it and Kintore ; and the question cannot be decided as to whom this belongs. On this common are a great number of tumuli, indicating it to have been tiie scene of some great ancient battle ; but neither his- tory nor tradition tells what the battle was. In one of several small cairns formerly existing, were found, when opened, three concentric circles of stones, within the innermost of which were bones, still perfect, but white, as if burnt with fire, and black within. On the farm of Upper Auguhorsk, within sight both of Drum and Harlaw, there is a large stone called ' Drum stone,' on which, says tradition, Irvine, the redoubted laird of Dium, made his testament, immediately before he went to the battle of Harlaw. Population of Kinellar in 1831, 449; in 1861, 691. Houses, 112. This parish is in the synod and presbytery of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Kintore. Stipend, £159 12s. 3d.; glebe, £13 15s. Schoolmasters salary, £42, with about £13 fees, and a share in the Dick bequest. The parish church was built in 1801, and contains nearly 250 sittings. Kinellar, previous to the Reformation, was a vicarage of Kinkell, belong- ing to the deanery of St. Andrews. KINKTHMOIST. See Kenxethmont. KUSFAUKS, a parish, containing the post-office station of Glencaise, at the western extremity of the cai'se of Gowrie, in Perthshire. It is bounded on the north by Kinnoul and Kilspindie, on the east by Errol, on the south-east by St. Madoes antl a detached part of Kinnoul, and on the south and west by tiie river Tay, which divides it from Rhynd and Perth. Its length eastward is fully 5 miles ; and its average breadth is about 1^ mile. The Tay i touches it over a distance of nearly 4 miles; has here neap-tides of 6 feet, and spring-tides of 9 or 10^; and is navigated by steamers and sailing-craft on their way to I'erth. Three streandets rise in the interior, and run to the Tay. The surface is picturesquely varied. The lands on the banks ot the river are flat; and at the Avest end form a nar- row belt, but rapidly expand eastward into the carse of Gowrie. The lands next to these rise by an easy ascent to the base of the western part of the range of the Sidlaw hills ; and these hills occupy all ti.e rest of the jjarochial area, and present acclivities replete with character, in various styles of beauty and romance. The most remarkable of them is Kinnoul-hill, partly within the western border of this parish, and partly within Kinnoul. The sum- mit projects in rugged clift's of a seamy texture, and has, at ditferent times, sent down, over an almost precipitous declivity, large masses of rock, to the plain below. Both the steep i'ront and the bold summit, — the latter rising 632 feet above the level of the Tay, — are picturesquely featured with wood. Tins hill, and others of the range, afiord a variety of delightful prospects. From some places is be- held the course of the Tay, for 18 or 20 miles, enlivened by the sailing craft and fishing -boats which flit along its bosom, and superbly rich in the garnitui-e of its banks, till the prospect terminates, beyond Dundee, in the German ocean ; while west- ward are seen all the east end of Strathearn, and a considerable part of the southern screens of that gorgeous strath, terminating on the moor of Auehter- arder. The soil, on the fiat grounds along the river, is a strong and very fertile clay ; on tJie grounds KINGAIRLOCH. 229 KING-EDWARD. rising toward the hills, it is an easy, deep, rich, black mould ; and in the level parts of tlie eastern division inland from the Tay, it is black mould, mixed in some places with clay, and, in others, with sand. Whatever parts refuse subjection to the plough, are almost all covered with plantation, and contribute both to picturesqueness and utility. 'I'he mansions are Kinfauns - castle, Seggieden- liouse, Glencarse- house, and Glendoig-house, — all modem buildings. The first of these is a superb edifice, the seat "of Lord Gray, built in 1822, from a design by Smirke. Lord Gray is by much the most extensive landowner; and there are five others. 'I'he parish is traversed by the road from Perth to Dundee, and by the Perth and Dundee railway; and it has stations on the latter at Kinfauns ancl Glencarse, respectively 3.J and (j miles distant from Perth. Population iii 1831. 732; in 1861, 6'u. Houses, 141. Assessed property in 186u, £9;U77 lis. 4d. This parish is in the presbytery of Pertli, and synod of Pertli and Stirling. Patron, tlie Crown. Stipend, £242 lis. 6d.; glebe, £11, Unappropriated teinds, £381 I8s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £4.5 with £13 Is. 6Jd. fees. The parish cliurch com- prises three parts of different dates, the oldest of them very old, and contains 41') sittings, 'i'here is a Free church: attendance, 260; sum raised in 1865, £230 12s. 2d. There is a private school on the northern border of the parish. KINGAIKLOCH, a district about 12 miles in length, stretching along the north-west side of the Linnhe-loch, in Argyleshire. It contains a post- office station of its own name, and belongs to the parish of Lismore and Appin. KINGARTH, a parish, containing the post-office station of Kingarth, the post-oftice village of Kil- chattan, and the villages of Kerrvcroy and Piper- hall, in the island and county of Bute. It comprises the southern part of the island; and is bounded on the north by the parish of Rothesay, and on all other sides by the frith of Clyde. Its length southward is 6^ miles; and its average breadth is 2^ miles. It has an irregular outline, being indented by several small bays on both its east and its west sides ; but it gradually narrows from its northern boundary southward till it becomes an isthmus of 1^ mile in breadth, and thence it forms a peninsula of 2 miles in length, terminating in tlie promontory of Garrocli-head. Its coast on the east and the south is for the most part rocky and bold, but on the west has a more g<'ntle rise. Its interior attains an extreme elevation on the summits of Blane's-hill and Suidhe-Cliatain, or ' Seat of Catan,' which have an altitude of respectively 486 and 520 feet above sea-level. All the features of principal interest will be found noticed in our articles Bute, Ascog, Mocxt-Stewart, Kiixhattan, Garroch-head, and Blake's (St.) Chapel. The soil of the arable lands is light and sandy, but fertile. The extent of these lands is 3,937 acres ; of moor and pasture land, 3.071 acres; of land which might be profitably re- claimed, 377 acres ; and of land under wood, 940 acres. The Marquis of Bute is by far the most ex- tensive landowner; and there are four others. Be- sides the principal mansions of Mount-Stewart and Ascog, there is a number of handsome villas. The yearly value of raw produce, inclusive of £710 for fisheries and £550 for lime, was estimated in 1840 at £12,808. The assessed property in 1860, £6.365. Population in 1831, 746; in 1861, 905. Houses, 150. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunoon, and synod of Argvle. Patron, the Marquis of Bute. Stipend, £196 10s. lid. ; glebe, £9. Schoolmaster's salary, £r>0, with about £24 fees. Tlie parish church was built in 1826, and contains 600 sittings. Tiiere is a Free church, with an attendance of 150; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £309 13s. 'J'liere are two private schools and a parochial librarv. KING- EDWARD,— called popularly Kixedar, and anciently KEX-Enr.Au. — a parish containing the post-office station of King-Edward, and the post- office village of Newbyth, in the north-west ex- tremity of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded on the west and north by Banffshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Aberdour, New Deer, Montquhitter, and Turrift". Its length west-north-westward is about 11 miles; and its breadth varies from about 2 to 5 miles. Ihit a district of it in the extreme north, comprising the estate of Montcoft'er, is sepa- rated from the ivst of the parish by a nan-ow inter- section of Banfi'shire, and extends to within half-a- mile of tlie town of Banff. The river Deveron traces tlie western boundary of the parish for several miles. A fine streamlet called King-Edward burn, traverses all the interior from east to west, along what is called the valley of King-Edward, to a junction with tlie Drveron, about 5 miles from tlie sea. The surface of the parish contains no hill or otlier remarkable eminence, yet is diversified with high and low grounds. The eastern part abounds in mosses, and is colder than the rest. About 7,351 Scotch acres of the parish are in tillage; 2,860 are waste or pasture land; 443 might be profitably reclaimed; 1,982 are fn moss; and 1,364 are under wood. The soil of the arable land on the banks of the Deveron is principally alluvium, very fertile ; that of many other parts is either a loamy clay or a black loam upon a gravelly or rocky bottom ; and that in the east is generally of a mossy nature, very various in quality, and superincumbent variously on gravel or on clay. Grey wacke is quarried in the west, and red sandstone in the east. The principal landowners are the Earl of Fife, Urquhart of Craig- ston. Grant DnfF of Eden, Urquhart of Meldnim, Mackay of Balniaud, and Taylor of Mill of Balmaud. The real rental at present is" about £8,000; and the value of assessed property in 1860, was £9,562. Two of the principal seats are Montcotfer-housc and Eden -house, both beautifully situated, and commanding fine views in the valley of the Deveron. On the right bank of King-Edward burn, on a rocky eminence, stands the rain of the ancient castle of Ken -Edgar. It originally belonged to the once powerful family of the Cumines, Earis of Buchan ; and appears to have been a place of great strength. Eden-castle is another nun in this vicinity ; but Ciaigston-castle, built in the 1 7th century by Ur- quhart of Cromarty, commonly called ' the Tutor,' is a fine old edifice, in good preservation, and sur- rounded witji pleasure-grounds tastefully laid out. The house of Byth is also an ancient fabric ; but it has been greatly enlarged and improved, and is now surrounded with thriving plantations. The parish is traversed by the road from Banff" to Aberdeen, and will enjov increased facility of communication from tlie Banff extension of the Great North of Scot- land railway. Population in 1831, 1,966; in 1861-, 2,843. Houses, 572. This parish is in the presbyteiy of Turriff, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £245 9s. 6d. ; glelie, £15. Unappropriated teinds, £467 14s. 7d. The parish church stands about 1| mile from the western Ixiundary, and is a tasteful edifice, erected in 1848, and containing 600 sittings. There has been a chapel of ease at Newbyth for the last 64 years; and the present edifice there was built in 1853, contains about 500 sittings, and is under KINGHORN. 230 KINGHORN. the patronage jointlv of the managers of its own congregation, and the Society for propagating Christian Knowledge. There is also a Free church preaching station ii\ Newliyth. with an attendance of about 80; and the ainouirt of its receipts in isr/) was £3-4 8s. 5d. Tliere is an Independent chapel at iMiilseat, built in 1831, and containing 210 .sit- tings. There are four schools; one of them purociiial, with a salary of £5.'), a share in tlie Dick bequest, and about £-iO fees; the other three variously aided by the heritors and by kuIj- scription. Tliere are also a public library and a savings' bank. Tiie name King-Edward is a cor- ruption, and the popular name Kinedar is the true name, signifying the ' head of the valley.' KINGENCLEUCII. See Deansto.n." KINGERLOCH. See KiNG.uin.ocn. KINGIIOL^M. See J)L^LFR1KS. KINGHORN, a parish on the north coast "t Fifeshire. Inchkeith, which we have described in its own alphabetical place, belongs to it. The mainland of the parisii coiitains tiic harbour of Pettycur, the post-towu of Kinghorn, and the vil- lage" of Invertiel, — the last a suburb of Kirkcaldy. It is bounded l)y the frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Burntisland, Aberdour, Auchtertooi, and Abbotshall. Its length westward is 4J miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 3.V miles. Its coast extends eastward from the eastern vicinity of Burnt- island to the southern vicinity of Kinghorn ; it forms there a small promontory, called Kinghoin- ness; it extends in a northerly direction thence to Invertiel; it has altogether an extent of about 4J miles ; and it exhibits a pleasing diversity of character, with many features both to attract the geologist and to gratify the lover of the picturesque. The interior rises in some places abruptly, in others gradually, from the shore; it exhibits beautiful alternations of height and hollow, of cultivated fields and narrow vales; it continues aggregately to ascend 2i miles from the shore, attaining at that distance its greatest altitude in the hill of Glass- mount, 601 feet above the level of the sea; and thence to the inland boundary, it has less diversity of character, though still exhibiting beautiful knolls and gentle swells. (July ]70 Scotch acres of it are under wood ; only about the same extent is in a state of waste or pasture ; and all the I'cst is under the plough. The soil along the shore, and for a considerable extent inland, is a deep dark loam, very fertile. The rocks in the north-east belong to the coal formation; and limestone and sandstone are there worked. The rocks in other parts aie chiefly trap. A lake about 30 feet deep, and 20 acres in area, lies beautifully embosomed among rising-grounds, a little north-west of the town of Kinghorn. There are upwards of ten principal land- owners. A splendid mansion has just been erected on the estate of Kilrie; and one is in tlie course of erection on North Glassmount. Abden-house and Balmuto are old mansions. A CDUibination pooi'- house for Burntisland, Kinphorn. Abbotsiiall, and Kirkcaldy, stands on the shore. The parish is tra- versed by the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee rail- way, and has a station on it at the town. Popula- tum in 1831. 2,579; in 1861, 2,081 Houses, 430. Assessed property in 1860, £10,413 4s. 5d. Contiguous to the town on the north there stood an ancient castle, which was a royal residence, but of which no vestige now remains. The castle and lands of Kinghorn weie frequently pledged along with others, in security for the jointure of the Scot- tish queens, till Robert II. disponed them to Sir John Lyon, \jOvA Glannnis, on his marriage with the King's daugiiter. Patrick, 9th Loid Glammis, was created Earl of Kinghorn by James VI., — a title which was afterwards changed to that of Strath- more and Kinghorn. in the reign of James VH. It was in riding from Invcrkeithinsr towards the castle of Kinghorn, that Alexander HI. w.is killed in 128.5-6, — an accident which occasioned so nuich trouble in Scotland. The road then wo^uid along the top of the rocks which overhang the sea; the ni'jlit was dark, and tlie King, contrary to the wishes of his cotutiers, was anxious to proceed; liis horse stumbled at a ])lacc about a mile west of Kinghorn, and the King was thrown over a lofty and rugged preiipice and killed. Near the rock thus fatal to Scotland's peace, is a mineral well which was rather famous at an early period. Dr. Anderson, physician to Charles I., wrote a treatise on the nature and properties of this water, with directions fur using it. Seafield-tower, once the seat of an ancient family of the name of Moutrie, is a striking feature on the shore. The estate ot Grange, which belonged for centuries to the ancient family of Kirkaldy of Grange, lies within the parish of Kinghorn, aijout a mile north-east of the town of Kinghorn, but is now attached to the estate of Raith, iu the conterminous parish of .Abbotshall. Sir James Kirkaldy of Grange figured as lord- high- treasurer of Scotland, in the reign of James v.; and his sou. Sir William, as governor of Edin- burgh castle, in the minority of James VI. CJrangc afterward.s became the property of a family of the name of Skeen, and subsequently, by marriage with the heiress, was the property of Carnegie of Boy- sack. The old castle of Piteadie stands on a hill of the same name, within the property of the ICai 1 of Rosslyn. It was inhabited about 120 years ago, and is still not much dilapidated. This parish is in the presbyteiy of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Strathmore. Stipend, £280 6s. lid. ; glebe, £19. Unappropriat- ed teinds, £.538 5s. 3d„ Schoolmaster's salary, £25, with about £100 fees. The parish church was built in 1774, and contains 700 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Invertiel, containing 800 sittings, and in the presentation of the male heads of families, who are comnuinicants. There are two Free churches, — the one at Kinghorn, the other at Inver- tiel ; and the sum raised in connexion with the former in 18(55 was £186 9s. 7^d., — in connexion with the latter, £235 Is. lOd. There is an United Presbyterian church at Kinghorn, built in 1779, and containing 654 sittings. There is also a small Baptist place of meeting. There are private schools at Kingliorn and Invertiel; and a pulilic library and a museum connected with the jiarish school, — which is also the burgh school, and has several depart- ments. An ancient chapel stood on the lands of Glassmount; and a field there, on which some ruins of the building were not long ago extant, still bears the name of Chapel-field. An old tower, which seemed to have formed part of a religious house, dedicated to St. Leonard, stood in the centre of the town, on the site now occupied by the prison. KINGHORN, a post-town, and a royal burgh, stands on the coast, directly opposite Leith, 2J miles east-r.orth-east of Burntisland, and 3i south by west of Kirkcaldy. Its site is the face of a sloping ground. It was formerly one of the meanest and most inegular towns in Fifeshire; but it now enjoys the eflects of many improvements, and disi)lays a comparatively neat and good appear- ance. Its streets were for ages almost impassable; but they are now levelled and well paved. Its former public buildings were all mean; but most of its present ones are respectable. Its town-house and jail are of Gothic architecture, after a desiijn by KINGLASSIE. 231 KINGOLDRIBT. Hamilton of Edinburgh, and were erected at the cost of £2,500. Its burgh school-house, situated within an extensive ornate phiy-ground at the wt st end of the town, was built in 1829, and has an ex- ternal elegance and internal equipments and ac- commodation of a high order. Even a spinning mill adjoining the town underwent such improve- ments about 16 years ago as rendered it a public ornament. This mill and two other mills in the vicinity, together with an extensive bleaching-field, about 1^ mile to the east, aftbrd large employment to the inhabitants. Hand-weaving is also a princi- pal employment. The harbour at the town is of little use, except for the accommodation of fishing- boats ; but the harbour at I'ettycur affords good conveniences for vessels, and was the regular ferry station from File to Leith and Newhaven previous to the opening of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dun- dee railway. That railway passes through a tunnel of 240 yards in length, in the vicinit}- of Pettycur, under the Witch-hill, on whicli the reputed ■witches of the olden time in the Kinghorn district were ex- ecuted ; and it proceeds thence for some way within deep cuttings, and has its station for Kinghorn in the very centre of the town. Kinghorn Avas made a royal burgh in the 12th century, and had its latest charter from James VI. in 1611. But, as a muni- cipal burgh it was dlstVanchised in 1841, and pliced under the government of 4 managers; while, as a parliamentary burgh, it unites with Kirkcaldy, Dysart, and Bvtrntisland, in sending a member to parliament. Corporation revenue in 1861, about £41)0. Parliamentary constituency in 1862, 48. Population of the municipal i)urgli in 1841, 1,389; in 1861, 1,230. Houses, 190. Population of the parliamentary burgh in 1861, 1,426. Houses, 219. — This town, .according to some authorities, derives its name from the adjoining promontory of land, styled in Gaelic cean gorm, — ' the Blue head.' In the Old Statistical Account it is suggested that, as the Scottish kings long had a residence in the neighbourliood, the name may have been suggested by the frequent winding of the King's horn when he sallied out for the diversion of the chase in this neighbourhood. KINGLASSIE, a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, in the Kirkcaltly district of Fifeshire. It is bounded l)y Kinross-shire, and by the parishes of Leslie, Markinch, Dysart, Auch- terderran, and Ballingry. Its length eastward is nearly 5| miles; and its breadth varies from 1 mile to 3^ miles. The Leven traces its northern boutid- ary eastward ; the Lochty flows eastward through its centre; and the Orr flows along its southern border. 'J'he land is flat adjacent to the streams; and it thence rises, by various gradients, in such a maimer as to form three ridges, which are highest on the west, and have a soft though varied character. About 244 Scotch acres are waste or pastoral; about 356 are under wood ; and all the rest of the surface is in tillage. The soil is partly a deep clay, partly a light loam, and partly an intermixture of clay or loam with gravel, or with sand and moss. The rocks are paitly trap, and partly of the coal forma- tion. Coal and limestone were formerly worked, and ironstone has lately been found. There are 12 land- owners: but only one of them is resident. 'J'he value of assesse I'property in 1860 was £11,459 14s. lid.; and the yearly value of raw produce was esti- mated in 1836 at £24,.")68. There is a blanket fac- tory. The parisli is traversed b}' tlie road fiom Kirkcaldy to Cupar, and by that from Dunfermline to Cupar, and enjoys ready access to the Edinhui-gh, Perth, and Dundee railway, both in its main trunk, and in its Dunfermline branch. The village of Kinglassie stands on tlie Lochty, 2^ miles south- west of Leslie, and 6 north-north-west of Kirkcaldy. Its inhabitants are principally handicraftsmen or Aveavers. Fairs are held on the 3d Wednesday of May, and on the Thursday before Michaelmas, both old style. Population of the village, in 1861. 420. Population of the parish in I84I, 958; in 1861. 1,266. Houses, 252. This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and SATiod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Rothes. Stipend, £236 19s. 2d.; glebe, £18. Unappropriated teinds, £314 14s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £60, with about £34 fees.' The parisli church is an old un- gainly building, repaired about 35 years ago, and contains nearly 350 sittings. There is a Free church, with an attendance of 170; and its receipts in 1865 amounted to £175 18s. 8d. There are a private school, a parochial library, and an agricul- tural society. KLNGLEDOORS. See Drummelzier. KlIS'GOLDRUM, a parish, containing a post- office village of its own name, in the south-eastern extremity of the Grampian district of Forfarshire. It is bounded by Cortachy, Kirriemuir, Airlie, and Lintrathen. Its length southward is 6J miles; and its average breadth is nearly 3 miles. I'rosen-water runs 3 miles along the northern and north-eastern boundary, and receives in its course Soho-burn, flowing to it from Catlaw across the whole bieadth of the parish. Back-water, a large tributary of the Isia, traces the boundary for about half-a-inile on the south-west. Cromby-burn, a considerable brook, rises in the interior, and runs very circuitously over a course of about 6 miles to Back-water. St'.veral other streamlets, tributaries of the Prosen or of Cromby-burn, drain the parish and diversify its ap- pearance. The surface on the north is mountain- ous, sending up on the northern boundary the towering Catlaw, 2,264 feet above the level of the sea, and other very considerable elevations; and on the south it is hill}', hut mildly featured and slop- ing, and very generally arable. Several parallel riilges extend from east to south-west; and the most of these consist of various kinds of trap rocks, while the lowest, called the Kaines of Airlie, is composed of conglomerate. Though there is but little flat land, the slopes, especially in the braes of Kenny and Baldovie, are so fully available for agri- culture as even to bear good crops of wheat. The soil in the arable parts is, in some places, a kind of clay, cold and wet; in others, a light sand; but, in general, a'rich black mould. About 3,500 imperial acres are in tillage; about 7,000 have never been cultivated; about 800 are capable of reclamation; and about 1,500 are under wood. There are seven land.owners. The mansions are Baldovie and Pearsie. The real rental, according to the new valuation in 1855, is £4,306. Assessed property in 1866, £6,829. The castle of Balfour, situated in" the southern district, is a Gothic structure, built pro- bably about the middle of the 16th centuiy, and formerly the seat of the Ogilvies of Balfour, an ancient family descended from that of Aii'lie. On the summit of Catlaw is a very large circular cairn bearing marks of fire. On Shurracli-hill, westward of the church, arc three equidistant circles of large stones, locally called ' Druds altars,' a corruption of Diiiids' altars. The village of Kingoldrum stands on Crombj'-burn, 4 miles west-north-west of Kirrie- muir. Population of the parish in 1831, 444; in 1861, 473. Houses, 82. This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £159 4s. lid.; glebe, £9 Gs. 6d. School- master's salary, £23, witii £10 fees, and about £3 KINGOODIE. 232 KINGUSSIE. 53. other emoluments. The parish church was Ijuilt in 1840, and contains 240 sittings. 'I'iic ancient church was given ai)ont the end of the r2tli century bv Sir Allan Durward of Lintrathen to the monks of Arbroath, and continued in their posses- sion till the Ket'orniatioii. KING0(J1)1E, a village on the north shore of the frith of Tay, near tlie south-east corner of the parish of Ijongforgan, rcrthshire; 3i miles west of Dundee, and 18^ east of rertli. It owes its origin and cliief support to the working of the quarry of Kiiigoodie in its vicinity. The stone of this quarry is a singularly good building material, and has long been in request. The tower of iJundee, built of it. in 1189, shows very little appeai-ance of decay ; and the house of Cftstle-Iluutly, built of it, in 14,r_', has scarcely a stone affected by the weather. It is what mineralogists call grain-stone, bluish in colour, very hard, and capalile of the finest polish; and it may be had in blocks of any reasonable size, even 50 feet long, 16 broad, and 3 thick. The stone, besides being used in ordinary masonry, has been much in demand for the construction of docks and piers. A small harbour was built at the village to facilitate the export of the stone, and is used also for the importation of coals ; but it is accessible, even at spring tides, only by vessels which draw less than 10 feet water. Population of the village, 263. KIXGPOOL. See Esk (The Black). KINGSBARN'S, a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, on the east coast of Fife- shire. It is bounded by the German ocean, and by the parishes of .St. Andrews, Danino, and Crail. Its length south-eastward is 3 J miles; and its greatest breadth is about 2^ miles. Its surface contains no ground of considerable elevation, and slopes gradu- ally from the inner boundary to the sea. Its coast is low and rocky, and has no pi'ominent projection, e.KCept at Randerstone. About 3,0.58 Scotch acres of the parochial surface are in tillage; about 150 are under wood; and only about 8 or 9 are waste. In the lower district, the soil is partly of a light and sandy kind, but fertile, and partly a deep black loam, tendirig in some places to clay; and in the upper district, it is partly strong and heavj', and pai-tly a thin clay and moorish, lying generally upon a wet bottom. The landowners are Sir Thomas Erskine of Cambo, Hart., Balfour of Rander- stone, Monypenny of Fitmilly, Cheape of Kippo, and four others. The real rental in 1836 was £(j.780. Assessed property in 18(56, £8,7.55 15s. 4d. 'J'he prevailing rocks are of the coal formation, but have not hitherto been of much mineral value. There is no regular fishery. A few persons are employed in the weaving of coarse linens. The only noticeable antiquity is one which has ceased to exist, an ancient royal residence, or at least appurten- ance of royalty, a castellated building containing barns or granaries of the royal household at Falk- land, whence arose the name of the parish, Kings- barns. The village of Kingsbams stands on the road from Crail to St. Andrews, J a mile from the site of the old castle, 3 miles north-north-wesc of Crail, and 7 south-east by east of St. Andrews. Here was formerly a golf club, whose members mot lour times in the year. Two annual fairs used to lie held in the village, but they have fallen into disuse. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,023; in 1861, 937. Houses, 221. This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Glasgow. Stipend, £251 18s.; glebe, £29 los. Unappro- priated teinds, £129 8s". 7d. The church is situated in the village. It was erected in 1631, and repaired and enlarged in 1811, so as to hold 650 sitteis. The parish was disjoined from ("rail in 1631. The par- ochial schoolmaster's salary is £40, witli about £45 fees. There are a private school and a public library. KING'S-CAIRN. See Grange. KING'S-COVE. See Aicran and Kilmokie. KING'S-CROSS. See Arran. KING'S-DALE. See Kenxoway. KING'S-DYKKS. See Fettekesso. KING'S-FERRY. See Ali.oa. KINdS-FIELD. See Tyndrum and Dai.ut. KING'S-FUREST. See Kells. KING'S-IIAUGH. See Blackwateh, B.mfT- shire. KINGS-HOLM. See Kells and Du.mfrie.s, KING'S-INCH. See Renfrew. KING'S-ISLAND. See Eaggax (Loch). KING'S-KETTLE. See Kettle. KING'S-KNOT. See Stirling. KING'S-KNOWE, a station on tlie Edinburgh fork of the Caledonian railway, li mile north-east of the Currie station, and 3 miles southwest of Edinburgh. KING'S-MUIR. SeeDuxiNo. KlNti'.g-PARK. See Stiulixo. KING'S-RGAU. See Ettrick. KING'S-SEAT. See Alyth, Dowallv, and Bexholme. KING'S-SONS. See Nigg. KINGS-STABLE. See Arrax. KINGSTON, a post-o!Kce village in the parish oi Dirleton, 7 miles north of Haddington. I'opulation, about 120. KINGSTON, Lanarkshire. See Glasgow. KINGSTON-PORT, a post-office and sea-port village, in the parish of Urquhart, Morayshire. It stands between Garmouth and the sea, at the left side of the embouchure of the Spey, and might much more emphatic;dly than the parish be called Speymouth. Excepting 3 or 4 houses, it has nil been built since 1810. In January 1854, the Spey here was frozen completely over, so as to afford a passage without the aid of a wherry, — a circum- stance unparalleled within the memory of the oldest inhabitants. Population, 434. KING'S-WATCH-TOWER. See Fortixgal. KING'S- WELL. See Fexwjck and Kilmarnock (Tue). KINGUSSIE, a parish, containing the post-ofHce village of Kingussie, and the villages of Rilia and Newtownmore, in the district of Badenoch, Inver- ness-shire. It is bounded on the south by Perth- shire, and on other sides b}' the parishes of Laggan, Moy, Dalarossie, and Alvie. Its length eastward is about 21 miles; and its breadth is about 18 miles. It is flanked by the Monadhleadh mountains on the north, and by the great Grampian range on the south; and is more elevated above the sea, and far- ther distant from the coast in every direction, than almost any other parish in Scotland. 'J'lie descent of the surface from the flanking mountain-ranges is pretty gradual, and terminates in a fine valley of alluvial land, traversed by the Spey. That valley has an average elevation of about 850 leet above sea- level; it contains, together with the bottoms of some small lateral vales, most of the cultivated land in the parish; it is sprinkled with alder and birch trees, and is overlooked variously by sylvan slopes, by shaggy acclivities, and by abrupt rocks and broken mountain surfaces, so as to form a scene truly picturesque. Six miles of Loch Ericht lie within the south-western border; Loch Inch lies on the south-eastern border; and there aie several other lakes, but none larger than l.J mile in length KINKELL. n\ KINLOCH-RANNOCII. and f of a mile in breadth. The rivulets Truim, Tromie, Gynag, and Calder, as well as some smaller streams, run fioin the flanks of the parish inward to the Spey. Most of the great features of the parish will be found fully noticed in tlie articles Badenoch, Spey (The), Inverness-siiire, Glen- TRUiM and Inch (Loch). By far the greater part of the surface is heathy and mountainous, and consists of extensive sheep walks. The soil of the arable lands is genernlly a light sandy fertile loam. There are several plantations, of greater or less extent, consisting chiefly of larch and Scotch pine, inter- spersed with mountain-ash and oak. The forest of Gaick contains no wood, excepting here and there a few birch trees, but abounds in deer, and is mucli frequented by sportsmen. The Kingussie estate anciently belonged to the Comyns, the lords of Badenoch; it afterwards became the property of the Gordon family; and. at tlie death of the last Duke of Gordon, it was purchased by James Kvan Baillie, Esq., formerly of Bristol. There are four other landowners. The chief antiquity is the ruin of the barracks of Ruthven, built by Government in 1718, on a conical mound, on the south bank of the Spey, the site' of the old castle of Ruthven, the seat of the lords of Badenoch. A mine of silver ore was dis- covered at one time near the church, but was never turned to any account ; and some specimens of silver and lead ores have been found in the glen of the Gynag. The great Highland road from Inverness to Perth traverses the parish up the Spey, and up Glontruim. Population in 1831, 2,080; "in 1861, 2.033. Houses, 403. Assessed property in 1860, £9.29-1. This parish is in the piesbyteiy of Abernethv, and svnod of Moray. Patron, tlie Duke of Ricli- mond." Stipend, £269 18s. 5d.; glehc, £-10. School- master's .salary is now £-18. with about £16 fees. The parisii church was built in 1792, and con- tains about 650 sittings. Tiiere is a government church at Ixscn: wliich see. There is a Free church at Kingussie, witli an atteiulance of from 800 to 1,000; and the sum raised in connexion with it ill 1865 was £163 Os. Id. Tiiere are 6 or 6 non- parochial schools, most of them suppoited by public bodies. James Macpherson, tlie translator of Ossian, was a native of this parish. The Village of Kingussie stands on the left side of the Spey, on the great Highland road from In- verness to Perth, 12 miles south-west of Aviemore, 44 J south by east of Inverness, and 72 north-north- west of Perth. Though merely a village, it i.s tlie capital of Badenoch, and a place of considerable provincial importance. It was founded, on the pre- cincts of an ancient monastery, about tlie end of last century, by the Duke of Gordon, as an intended seat of woollen manufactures. But it never pros- pered in its intended capacity, and is now entirely dependent for support on the small general trade of the agricultural district around it. It has a good inn, a court house, an office of the British Linen Company's bank, a savings' bank, and two insur- ance offices. Its public buildings, and some of its private ones, are substantially built of grey and white granite. It is a police station; and both justice of peace courts and sheriif small debt courts are held in it, — tlie latter on the first Tuesday of January, INIay, and September. Public coaches pass through it, communicating between Inverness and Perth. Population, G46. Houses, 91. KINKELL, an ancient vicarage, now compre- hended in the parish of Trinity-Gask, Perthshire. It is situated on the Earn, 3 miles north-north-west of Auchterarder. Here are now a bridge over the Earn, and an United Presbyterian church. KINKELL, Aberdeenshire. See Keith-Hall. KINLASS. See Glenkinlass. KINLOCH, a village in the parish of Collessie. Fifeshire. It was greatly reduced about 25 years ago, declining suddenly "from a population of 191 to a population of 58, many of its families removing to Monkstou in the same parish. KINLOCH, a parish in the northeast of Perth- shire. It was ecclesiastically united to Lethendy in 1806, but lies topographically separate. It is bounded by Blairgowrie, Clunie, and Caputh. Its length south-south-westward is 9 miles ; and its breadth at the greatest is 2\ miles, and rarely ex- ceeds 1 mile. Its post-town is Blairgowrie. Three lakes lie within the parish or on its boundaries. Lornty-burn runs across it, at its broadest part ; and Airdle water traces the whole of its northern boun- dary, yet runs there only 1^ mile. The mansion of Marlee stands between two of the lakes, beautifully embosomed in wood. The surface of the parish, lor 2J miles from the extreme south, is flat ; and thence till within a mile of the Airdle, it rises in a slow, broken, and varied ascent. About 1,503 imperial acres are in tillage, 1,000 pastoral or waste, 500 capable of profitable improvement, and 269 under wood. There are five landowners; and the real rental is about £2,200. On a projection of the steep bank of the glen of Lornty-burn, stands the castle of Glassclune, of very high but unknown antiquity, and long a place of great strength ; and on a moor called the Haer-Cairns are a vast number of tumuli, which some fond antiquaries have contended to be vestiges of the far-famed battle of the Grampians. The parish is intersected by the road from Blair- gowrie to Dunkelii. I'opulation in 1851, 402. Houses. 73. See Lethendy. KINLOCH (The), a small stream falling into the head of the Kyle of Tongue, in the parish of Tongue, Sutherlandshire. KIN LOCH ARD, a post-office station subordinate to Stirling. KINLOCH- A YLORT, a hamlet with an inn, in the district of Arisaig, on the west coast of the mainland of Inverness-shire. Cattle fairs are held here on the third Friday of May, and the third Fri- day of October. kiNLOCH-BERVIE, a quoad sacra parish, com- prising the northern part of the quoad civilia parish of Eddcrachillis, on the west coast of Sutherland- shire. It lies 8 miles north of the post-office village of Scourie. Its greatest length is about 20 miles, and its greatest breadth about 10. It was erected into a parish by the General Assembly ir. 1834, and re-erected by the Court of Teinds in 1846. Its parish church is a government one, erected in 1829, and containing 350 sittings. Stipend, £120 ; glebe, £2. There is a Free church, with an attendance of 470; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £45 16s. 3^d. KINLOCHEWE, a post-office station and an inn, in Ross-shire, on the road from Inverness to Pool-ewe, 54J miles west-north-west of Inverness. KINLOCH-LUICHART, a quoad sacra parish, within the quoad civilia parish of Con tin, in Ross- shire. It has a government church, which was erected in 1825. KINLOCII-MOYDART, a post-office station and a mansion at the head of Loch Moydart, at the south-western extremity of the mainland of Inver- ness-shire. See Ardnamurchan. KINLOCH-RANNOCH, a village in the parish of Fortingal, in the north-west of Perthshire. It stands at the debouch of the river Tummel from Loch-Rannoch, and consists of about 30 huts, two inns, the church of the quoad sacra parisli of Ran- KINLOCH-SNIZORT. 234 KINNAIRD'S-HEAD. noch, and a manse. Fairs are held here on the Friday before the first Wednesday of May, on tlie se,-oiid Tuesday of August, and on the last Tuesday of October. KINLOCH-SNIZORT, an inn in the island of j^kve, 13 miles west of I'ortree, on the road tiieuce to Dunvecran. KINLOCII-SI'ELVIE, a quoad sacra parish, within the quo:ul civilia paiish of Torosay, in the islniid of Mull, Arsylushire. It was constituted by tlie Court of Tuimis in June 184.">. Its cbuicli is a povemnient one, and was built in 18-H. The stipend is £120. KINLOCllYCIIAllT. See Kixr.ocir-LuiCHAKT. KINL088, a pnish.containinj^ the villajreof Kin- loss and the post-town of Findliorn, on the coast of Moravsliire. It is bounded by tiic estuaiy of the Findliorn, by the Moray frith, and by the parishes of Alvcs, Uifford, and Forres. Its outline is nearly a square of between ;> and 4 mihs a side. Its surface is a Hat champaign ; and its coast is everywhere low, with the exception of mounds of drift saml. About 2,850 imperial acres are in tillage, 200 constantly waste, 1,7(j5 in a divided eoniiiion, and 250 under wood. There are six landowners. The principal resi- dences are Grangeludl and Seapark. The real rental in 1842 was £4,240; the estini.Tted yearly value of raw land produce in that year, £I5,49G, — of fisheries, £7.000; the vidiie of assessed property in 1860, £ti. 128. — The village of Kinloss is a small place, situated at the south-eastern extremity of the estuarial expansion of the Findliorn. Here stands the ruin of Kinloss abbey, open to a ])eautiful view of the Moray frith, and tlie hills of Koss and Inver- ness. It was founded by David I., in 1150. for monks of the Cistertian order, and confirmed by a I'apal bull, in 1174. It must have been of very considerable extent and magnificence; but the materials were taken, in 1650, to aid in the con- struction of Cromwell's fort at Inverness, and little else than a mere outline of its extent was left. Ti.e abbots were mitred and had a seat in parliament. One of tile most distinguished was IJobert Reid, official of Moray in I'toi), bishop of Orkney in 1557, and some time president of the court-of-session. At the Reformation, the revenues of Kinloss abbey, according to Shaw, collated with the Registruni Moravieiise, amounted to £1.152, besides numerous payments in kind. The whole of the property, in- eluding farms in tlie counties of Nairn, Inverness, Mora3% 15anlf, Aberdeen, and Berwick, besides the lands in its vicinity, was seized ; and Edward Bruce, Esq., commissary of Edinburgii, and after- wards a lord of session, was appointed commendator of the establishment, and, in lij04, was elevated to the rank and title of Baron Kinloss. In 1633, his son, Thomas, was honoured, by Charles I., with the higher dignity of Earl of Elgin, — a title still en- joyed by his descendants. It was at Kinloss abbey that Edward I., intimidated by the wild bills of Koss and Inverness which he saw before him, was arrested in bis conquering career ; and, after staying at the abbey twenty days, be retraced his steps. Population of the parish in 1831, 1:121; in 18GI, 1,31.';. Houses, 260. This parish is in the presbytery of Forres, and synod of Moray. Patrons, the Earl of ^Moray and Brodie of Letiien. Stipend, £2404s.7d.; glebe, £5. Schoolmaster's salary is now £50, with about £12 fees, a share in the Dick bequest, and about £10 other emoluments. The parish church was Ijuilt in 1765, and leiiaired and eidarged in 1830. There is a Free church: attendance, 500; sum raised in 1865, £186 16s. lOid. There are a Free church school, a public library, and a friendly society. The pari>li of Kinloss was di.sjoincd from the parishes of Alves, Katford, and Forres, in 1657. KINMOUNT. See Cummeutkees. KINNAIKD, a ])arisb, containing the small vil- lages of Kiniiaird, Pitmiddie, Craigdallie, Flawciaig, and Nethermains, in the (iowrie district of Perth- shire. Its post-town is Inchture, 2J miles to the south -cast. It is bounded by the parishes of Collace, Abcrnyte, Inchture, Errol, and Kilspindie. Its length west-south-westward is nearly 3 miles; and its breadth is about 2 miles. Its south-eastern and considerably smaller section stretches into the Carse of Gowrie; and the rest rises gradually up into what arc called the Carse braes. The soil, in the former section, is of the rich character common to the carse ; on the south side of the braes, it is a mixture in dilTerent proportions of black earth and what is called mortar, inferior to the carse soil, j'et not a little fertile; and on the north, it is light and shallow, producing alternations of heath, bent, and verdure, and fit only fov the pasturage of sheep. The arable and the p.-istoral districts are to each other as 31 to 30. Several vantage-grounds in the uplands command extensive and brilliant view.s, cinctured on some sides by the bold forms of the Grampian ranges, and the gentle outlines of the Fife bills. The village of Kinnaird. and especially the castle, situated a little north of it, occupy such vantage-grounds ; and may, from this circumstance, have obtained their name, — composed, as it is, of two Celtic words wliicb mean ' the high end or head.' Kinnaird-castle is an imposing cdihee, erected 700 years ago ])y the Crown as a local fortalice, inhabited for some days in 1617 by James VI., and extenially renovated in 1855 by the Fingask family, to whom it now belongs. The parish lies about midwaj' between Perth and Dundee, and has good facilities of coinmnnication. There are two landowners. Tilt' yearlv value of raw produce was estimated in 1837 at £7,700. Assessed property in 1843, £3.035 15s. Population in 1831, 461; in 1861, 318. Houses, SO. This parish is in the presbytery of Dundee, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Ciown. S'tipeiid, £220 19s. Id.; glebe. £16 lOs. Unappro- priated teinds, £18 2s. lid. The church was built about 30 years ago, and is sufficiently commodious. Schoobnastei's salary, £50, with about £24 fees, and £4 other emoluments. KINNAIRD, a qnomiam parish in Forfarshire, now divided between the parishes of Farnell and Brechin. Here is Kinnaird castle, the superb seat of the Earl of Southesk, late Sir James Carnegie, Bart. See FARXEi.r,. KINNAIRD, a village and an estate in the parish of Lai'hert, Stirlingshire. The village is situated in the vicinity of the Carron iron-works, and is in- habited principally by colliers. Population, 437. Houses, 67. The estate belonged to the famous Abyssinian traveller, Bruce : and the mansion upon it was the scene of his death, and of the seemingly trivial accident which occasioned it. KINNAIRD, a Iiamlet in tlie jiarish of Moulin, Perthshire. Population, 70. Houses, 17. KINNAIRD'S-HEAD, a high promontory on the coast of Bnchaii, Aberdeenshire, supposed to be the ' Promontoriuni Taixalium ' of I'toleiny: see Fka- SERBUKGii. From this point the coast trends due west, on the one hand, and on the other, cui-ves to the south-east, Ibrming the bay of Fraserburgh. On the top of the promontory is the castle of Kinnaird's- head, belonging to Lord Saltoun, and occupied, since December 1787, as a lighthouse: it stands in lat. 57° 42', long. 2° 1' west of London. The lantern is 120 feet above the level of the tide at hish KINNEDEPv. 235 KINNELL. water, and is lic^lited from sunset to sunrise. The lit^ht is fixed, and is seen at the distance of 15 nau- tical miles in clear weather. Calrnbulg bears, by compass, 2 miles south-east, and Troup -head, 9 west-north-west, of this lighthouse. KINNEDER, an ancient parish, now comprised in Drainie, in ^lorayshire. The remains of the church are still to be seen here, and of an old prilace or castle adjacent to it, where the Bishop of 5loray resided before Castle-Spynie was built. KINNEFF, a parish, containing the village of Caterline and the post-office station of KinnetT, on tiie coast of Kincardineshire. It is bounded by the German ocean, and by the parishes of Bervie, Arbuthnot, Glenbervie, and Dunnottar. Its length along the coast is about 5 miles; and its breadth inland is about 4 miles. Its southern extremity adjoins the town of Beiwie. A range of clifls. about 180 feet hijrli, forms the whole coast, generally .standing close to the water, but occasionally falling back into little bays. Some comparatively high grounds intersect the interior, and divide it into several well-defined districts. Along tiie coast lies a low tract of deep loamy soil, varying from J to f of a mile in breadth. Separated from this by the hill of Slains, lies a district of inferior value, bounded on the north by a i-ange of elevated groiuid. Be- yond, lies a district which has recently undergone great agricultural improvement. The highest ground in the parish is Bruxie hill, on the north- west boundary, which has an elevation of 65(3 feet Hbove sea-level. About 4,798 acres are in tillage, about 1,557 are waste or pastoral, and about 53 are under wood. The prevailing rock is the old red sandstone, and its conglomerate; and this is quar- ried partlv for local building, and partly as an ex- cellent millstone. There are nine landowners. Tlie estimated value of vearlv produce, in 1842, was £15 9s. lOd. Assessed" property in 1860. £8,061 lis. 8d. There are vestiges of tinee old castles, and two ancient ciiapels. The paiish is traversed by the road from Montrose to Aberdeen. Population in 1831, 1,006; in 1861, 1.054. Houses, 221. This parish is in tlie presbyteiy of Fordoun, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, tlie Crown. Stipend, £232 3s. 6d. ; glebe. £28. Selioolmaster's salary now is £40, with about £12 fees. 'J'lie parish churcii was built in 1738, aTid repaired in 1831. and contains 424 sittings. There is a F'ree church, witli an attendance of about 270; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £96 16s. 4d. Tiiere is a paiocliial library. 'I'he present parish comprehends the ancient parishes of KirmefF and Caterline; and tliese were formerly united also to tiie parisli of Bervio. The celebrated Dr. John Arbuthnot, intimate friend of Pope and Swift, and physician to Queen Anne, lived for some time in Kinneft'. His father, the minister of Arbuthnot, was, at the Revolution, turned out of his living by his chief aiid patron, Lord Arbuthnot, who was then a very keen partizan ; on which, he retired to his own property of Kingorny, where he lived for some time, having his son, the Doctor, a young man, along with him. Mrs. Granger, the wife of a minister of Kinneff, witli her servant-girl, succeeded in conveyin'i" the regalia of Scotland out of Dunnot- tar-castle while besieged, and hid them under the pulpit in the church of KinnetT. See Duxxottau. KINNEIL. See Bourowstowxxess. KINNEL (The), a stream of Annandale, Dum- fries-shire. It rises in the extreme north-west of the parish of Kirkpatrick-Juxta, within three fur- longs of the source of one of the hinhest head-waters of tlie Daei-, or more properly, the Clyde. For 5^ miles it nins south-eastward, along a fine pastoral valley between the lofty Queensberry range of hillg on the west side, and a less imposing hilly jange on the east side ; and receives various tributary rills, the chief of which are Earshag-burn on the left bank, and Lochan-burn on the right bank, each 3 miles in length of course. The stream now runs 2^ miles southward, dividing Kiikpatrick- Juxta on the west from Johnstone on the e.tst ; and receives from the west the tribute of the Dufi' Kinnel. after the latter has flowed 4 miles from its source, chiefiv along the boundary of Johnstone. The Kinnel, froiii the point of touching Johnstone, had become wood- ed in its banks; and, running 2j milts southward throujfh tlie body of that parish, it sweeps past the splendid mansion and park of Raehills, occasionally ploughs its way along a very deep and finelv- featured sylvan dell, and altogether wears an as- pect of mingled picturesqueness and romance. Re- ceiving on its right bank a beautiful little tributary of 3 miles length of course, it forms, for 2f miles, the boundary-line between Kirkmichael on the west and Johnstone on the east. Running a mile into the parisli of Lochmahen, it is joined from the west by the Ae ; and thence south-eastward, 2 miles in a straight line, but at least 4 along its channel, it flows in serpentine folds to the Annan at Broomhili. In the lower part of its course, it has, in general, a level basin, yet so various and pleasing in aspect, as to be a fine foil to the mirthful trotting of the stream along its pebbly path. The Kinnel's entire length of course is about 19 miles. KINXELL, a parish near the centre of the mari- time district of F'orfarshire. Its post-town is Ar- broath, 7 miles to the south-south-east, though there are several post-office stations neai-er. It is bound- ed by Farnell, Maryton, Craig, Lunan, Invei-keillor, Kirkden, Guthrie, and Aberlemno. Its length eastward is 4 miles; and its greatest breadth is 2J miles. Its southern part is watered for nearly 2 miles by the Lunan. and for a greater distance bv one of that river's tributaries; and its northern part is watered by head-streams of tiie Pow. A rising- ground or steep hillock on the north bank of the Lunan is crowned by the parish church ; and from this circumstance the name of the parish, signify- ing ' the head of the bank,' is supjiosed to have been derived. The surface of the parish is, in genera!, flat, and under good cultivation. On the east ancl north it is sheltered and beautified by plantations. An expanse of moor in the north-east'corner, which formerly was waste, is now covered with wood. About 3,500 Scotch acres of the entire parocliial area are in tillage ; and about 500 are either moorish-pasture or waste. There are four land- owners. The real rental, according to the new valuation in 1885, is £9,-305. The e.«timated value of raw produce in 1842 was £14,297. There are three spinning-mills, and one grain-mill. The interior is traversal liy the jVbeideen railway, and by the road from Arbroath to Brech.in. Tradition assigns to Kinnell the battle-field of an action be- tween the Lindsays and the Ogilvies in the reign of James II., and adds that the spurred boot of a man slain in the pursuit was taken ofT, and hung up in an ash adjacent to the church, and belonging to the family of Airly. A spur, covered with rust, measuring 8 inches in length and 4^ in breadth, and having a rowel as large as a crown-piece, le- mained on the wall at the date of the Old Statistical Account. Population of the parish in 1831, 786; in 1861, 866. Houses, 161. This parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, and sviiod of Angus and ilearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £229 10s. lOd. ; glebe, £14, besides 3 acres of cultivated moor. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, KINNESHEAD. 236 KINNOUL. with £15 fees. The parish church is a substantial edifice, erected in 1855. There is a parochial library. Cattle fairs are held at Oi.esteklaw, which see. K1NM:LLAR. See Kinetxar. KINNESHEAD, a station on the Glasgow and Harrliead railway, between rr its use. A weekly corn market is held on Wednesday. Fairs are held on tlie third Wednesday of Mircli, on the lirst day of June, on the third Wednesday of July, and on the LStli day of October, ail old style. The town has offices of the British Linen Company's Bank, the Clydesdale Bank, and the City of Glasgow Bank; it has also several insurance agencies, a curling ciulj. two subscription libraries, and several benevolent and religious societies. Communication is main- tained by coach with the Cowdenbeath station of the Dunfermline branch of the Edinburgh, Tertli, and Dundee railway; and schemes are in pro- gress for constructing a branch railway to Kinross itself. The town is governed by a committee of the iidiabitants. annually chosen at a public meeting. 1'be sheriff court is held every Tuesday. The sheriff small debt court is held every Tuesday during session, and once a-fortnight, or oftener if required, during vacation. A justice-of-peace court is held on the first Monday of every month. Quarter sessions are held on the fiist Tuesday of March, May. and August, and on the last Tuesday of October. Alexander III., in the early part of his reign, held his court in Kinross; and here, in 1257, he and his young Queen were seized by the faction of the Comyns. On the Gth of September, 1842, Queen Victoria passed through Kinross, on her way to Perthshire. Population of the town in 1841, 2.062; in 1861, 2,08.S. Houses, 360. KINKOSSIE, a village in the pari.sh of Collacfc, I'orilisliire. Population, 157. Houses, 33. KINROSS-SHIKE, a very small inland county in Scotland. It is bounded on the east and south by Fifesliire, and on the west and north by Perthshire. Its lengtli from Auchmoor-bridge on the east to the river Devon on the west, is about 12 miles; and its breadth from Damheadon the north to Kelty-Bridge on the south, is scarcely 10 miles. Its area com- I)risL's 46.485 acres of hind, and 3.327 acres of water. The Ochil bills are its boundary on the north, with Strathearn; the Lomond bills are on its muttial border with Fifesliire on the east; the Benarty bill is on its boundary on the south-east; the Cleish hills either flank or bound it on the south; and the prolongation of tlie Ochils toward Alva flanks it on the west. The county is thus nearly girt with hills. But there is an opening between the Ochils and the Loinonds on the north-east, leading toward Auchter- muchty; there is a narrow pass on the east, tra- versed by llie river Leven; there is a level open- ing between Benarty and the Cleish hills on the south, leading towa'rd Edinburgh; and there is another and more extensive level opening, at the Crook of Devon on the west, leading toware Stirling. The central region of the county is partly oc- cupied by Locli-Leven, and partly coiisists of a level tract, c;tlled the Inigli of Kinross, principally co'.nprised in the parish of Kinross. The surface of the lake has an elevation of 360 feet, or a little more, above the level of the sea; and, excepting the bottom of a small part of the glen through which the river Leven runs oil' from the lake, that elevation is tlie lowest in the county. The general configura- tion of the land may be regarded as simply a vaiiety of braes and slopes, declining down from the en- girdling hills to the central region. The most rapid descent is on the south-east, to the south shore of the lake; but even there, the declivity is neither abiuiU nor nigged. The whole face of the county, though destitute of any of the first class features of landscape, has a rich appciirance, both natural and artificial, and presents some fine charms to the eye. " Few things are more beautiful than the view to be obtained from the rising ground on the eastern side of Loch-Leven, in an autumnal morning, when the mist which has enveloped the whole county maybe seen gradually ascending from the lake, under the influence of the rising sun, and unfolding to the eye of the traveller the calm unruilled surface of the waters, with the gray and lonely castle, — connected with many a strange tale in our history — rejiosing on its bosom; and as the mist clears away, the hills are seen girding in the whole, which ])iesents at such a moment a picture highly interesting and sublime." The northern part of the county is drained by the Farg and by the head-streams of the Eden; a small part on the west is drained by the Devon; all the central parts are drained by the North Quiech, the South Quiech, and the Gairnie, running into Loch- Leven; and the southern border is drained by the Kelty, a head-stream of the Orr. Coal is found on the southern border, contiguous to Fifesliire, but is not wi-ought within Kinross-shire. Limestone in irreat plenty is obtained from the Lomond hills. Sandstone of excellent quality is wrought in Cleish ; and red sandstone abounds to the north of Kinross. A coarse whinstone prevails in most of the hills, and contains, in some parts, small veins of lead ore. Extensive plantations were begun in 1733, on the Biairadam estate, on the southern border of the county; and they now occupy about 1,300 aci'es, and consist of oak. ash, elm, beech, Scotch ji'ne, larch, and firs. The total extent of plantations within the county is 2,938 acres. The climate, owing to the general elevation of the land, and to the peculiar influence of the encircling bills, is cold and wet; but it has in recent times been materially improved by draining operations, and is upon the whole considei'ed healthy. The soil of the greater part of the county is dry, resting on a sharp gravel, and intermixed with small portions of clayey loam; but a good deal of it is of a moorish quality. The number of small pro- prietors, as compared with the extent of tlic territory, is greater than in most other counties. Many a farm constitutes an entire property, and is occupied and worked by its own proprietor. A large pro- ]iortion of the farms were feued out about the end of the ]7th century, or the beginning of the !Sth, for a feu duty; and they were ill defined in their marches, and kept in much confusion by the prac- tice of run-rig. Owing to these circumstances, Kinross-shire was later and slower in the start of modern agricultural improvement than most other districts in Scotland, and continued till a compara- tively recent period, to be, to a very large extent. KINROSS-SHIRE. 239 KINTAIL. wild and barren. But after agiicultural impvove- meut (lid f;iirl_v commence liere, it made such very rapid progress as soon to bring tlie county np to an equality, or nearly so, with the best parts of Fife- sliire, or even with great part of the Lothians. Farms, for the most part, vary in size from 50 to 300 acres in extent; and such as are let are gener- ally let on lease from l-i to 2 1 years. In the sta- tistics of agriculture, obtained in 1854, for the Board of Trade, by the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, 448J imperial acres were re- turned as under wheat, 3,li3G^ under barley, 8,234:| under oats, 15 under rye, 9i under here or bigg, 139J under beans, 11 under pease, 199f undei vetches, 4,141 1 under turnips, 857 J under potatoes, f under carrots, 2| under cabbage. 134^ under flax, 15J under turnip seed, and 372-J in bare iallow. The estimated gross produce was 13,895 bushels of wheat, 94,879 bushels of barley, 284,081 bushels of oats, 304 bushels of here or bigg, 3,724 bushels of beans, 67,717 tons of turnips, and 3.216 tons of potiitoes. The estimated average produce per im- perial acre was 31 bushels of wiieat, 30^ bushels of barley, 34J bushels of oats, 32 l)nshels of here or bigg, 26| bushels of beans, 16 tons and 7 cwt. of turnips, and 3| tons of potatoes. The number of acres not in tillage comprised 15,150^- under grass in the rot.ation of the farm, 6,591-J in permanent pasture, 249f in irrigated meadows, 9,31 of in sheep walks, 2,938 under wood, 1,205| in a state of waste, and 840 in house-steads, roads, fences, &c. The numbers of live stock comprised 1,524 horses, 1,501 milch cows, 2,084 calves, 4.389 other bovine cattle, 11,174 ewes, gimmers, and ewe-hogs, 11,557 tups, wethers, and wethcr-liogs, and 1,137 swine. The manufictures of Kinross-shire, excepting in the ordinary departments of handicraft, are of com- paratively small amount, and will be found all noticed in our articles on Kinross and Jlilnathort. The roads of the county are all good; and that ex- tending north and south through the town of Kin- ross, connecting Edinburgh and Perth, is one of the best in Scotland. 'J'he only towns are Kinross and j\Iilnathort; and the chief villages are Kelty, Mary- burgh, Kinnesswood, Scotland-well. IMiddleton, (?'rook of Devon, Duncrivie, and part of Damhead. Kinross-sliire unites with Clackmannanshire in sending a member to parliament. Its constituency in 1861 was 658. Its slieiiff courts are Iield at Kinross. Tiie average yearly number of committals for crime witiiin the countv, was 9 in the years 1846-1S50, and 11 in the years 1852-1854. 'The sums paid for expenses of criminal prosecutions, in Kini'oss-shire jointly with Clackmannanshire, in the years 1846-1852, ranged fri)m £975 to £1.155. Tlie total number of persons confined in the jail at ]{in- ross within the year ending 30th June, 1861, was 49, and the average duration of their confinement was 22 days. Three parishes in Kinross-shire are assessed for the poor; and the number of registered poor in these parishes, in the year 1860-1, was 182, — of casual poor, 36. The sum expended on the registered poor in that year was £1,269, on the casual poor. £12. The assessment tor prisons aiid roQfue-nioney is Ijd. per £1 of real rent. The valued rent in 1674 was £20,250 Scotch ; the annual value of real pro[)erty, as assessed in 1815, £25.805; and the new valuation in 1855, £46,725. — in 1860, including railwavs, £51,484. Population of the county in 1801, "6,725; i'l 1811, 7.245; in 1821, 7.762; in 1831, 9,072; in 1841, 8,763; in 1861, 7,977. Males in 1861. 3,787; females, 4.190. In- habited houses in 1861, 1,644, uninhabited, 100; building. 8. There are in Kinross-shire four entire parishes, and parts of three other parishes. Three of the en tire parishes are in the presliytery of Dunfermline, and the other in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, all in the synod of Fife. Two of the parts of parishes are iu the presb^'tery of Perth, and the other in the presbytery of Auchterarder, all in the synod of Perth and Stirling. In 1851, the number of places of worship -within Kinross-sliire was 16; of which 5 belonged to the Established church, 6 to the Free churcli, and 5 to the United Presbyteiian cimrch. The number of sittings in 4 of the ICst.ibiished places of worship was 2,992 ; in 5 of the Free churcli places of worship, 1,371; and in 3 of the United Presbyterian places of worsliip, 1,762. 'J"he maximum attendance on the Census Sabbath, at 4 of the Established places of worship, was 1,400; at the 6 Free church places of worship, 1,416; and at 4 of the United Presbyterian places of worship, 1,762. There were in 1851, in Kinross-sliire, 14 public da}" schools, attended by 595 males and 438 females, — 47 private day schools, attended by 173 males and 216 females. — 1 evening school ibr adults, attended by 16 males and 15 females. — and 14 sabbath schools, attended by 419 males and 537 females. The ancient history of Kinross-shire is all identi- fied with that of Fifeshire; and the modern history of it, excepting so much of the incidents in the lite of Queen Alary as will be noticed in our article on Loch-Leven, does not possess any point of notice- able interest. Kinross-shire, up to the year 1426, formed part of Fifeshire; and when erected, in that year, into a separate county, it comprised only the parishes of Kinross, Orwell, and Portmoak. Itg subsequent enlargement took place in 1685, by the addition to it of Clei.'^h, Tulliebcde, and parts of three Perthshire parishes. Yet, though made a separate county, it was placed under the jurisdiction of the same sheriff as Fifeshire, as also at that time Clackmannanshire was placed under the jurisdiction of the same sheriff" as Stirlingshire. This state of things continued till the year 1807; and then the counties of Kinross and Clackmannan were united into one sherift'dom. KINTAIL, a parish, containing the post-office station of Kintail, the post-oflice village of Doniie, and the fishing village of Bundalloeh, in the south- west of Ross-shire. It is bounded by Inveir.ess- sbire, and by the parishes of Lochalsh and Glen- shiel. Its length eastward is about 18 miles; and its breadth is fiom 5 to 6 miles. Its western ex- tremity commences at the forking of Loch-Alsh into Loch-Long and Loeh-Duich, and is separated by these sea-loehs from respectively the parish of Lochalsh and the parish of Glenshid. This ex tremity, particularly along the coast of the two sea- lochs, contains nearly all its inhabitants. Its central and eastern parts are wildly liighland, but comprise hill-grazings which are well fitted t'or the pasturing of all kinds of stock. Its most inland district, called Glenelchaig, is separated from the other districts by lofty rugged mountains, and is very diflicult of access. The whole parish, in fact, is one great fastness, which art alone could have rendered accessible; and abounds in scenery of sur- passing grandeur. "From whatever quarter Kin- tail is entered, whether by sea from the west, or by land from the east, a scene gradually unfolds itself, which it is impossible to describe. Mountains of immense magnitude, grouped together in the sub- limest manner, with wood and water, scars and ben.'; intermingled, present a prospect seldom sui'passed in wild beauty, and equalU' interesting and aston- ishing in the storms of winter and in the calm serenitv of summer." Tullochard is the loftiest uf KINTESSACK. 240 KINTULLOCH. the mountains, and possesses some interestino: ns- sociations. Sec Tfi.LOCHAKD. Tlie shore of tlie sea-lochs is, for the most i)art, sandy and clayey. The principal fresh water lakes are Loch-a-niiealich and Li)ch-(llassletter. 'I'lio principal streams are the Elchaig and the Loin<^, tlowing into Loch-Lonj^, and the Croe, flowinj^ into the head of Loch-Duich. One of the most interesting natural objects is the fine water-fall of Glomaeli. See Gi-omach (Tni;). An interesting antiqnity occnis on the island of Donan. See Ellandonan CAsri-r.. There are three landowners. Population in 18;]1, 1,240; in ISGl, 8!»0. Houses, 192. Assessed property in 1800, £4,190. This parish is in the presbytery of Lochcarron. and synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £117 OS.; glebe, £25. Schoolmaster's salary, £0'), with about £2 fees. The roof of the parish church fell in during divine service on Sabhath, 7th October, 1855, but without injuring any of the congregation. The building was old, and contained 2',tU sittings. Tliere is a Roman Catholic chapel at Uornie. There are two Society schools. The name Kintail is derived from words signifying " the head of two seas." KINTESSACK, a village in the part of the parish of Dvke and Moy which lies within Morayshire. Population, 122. "Houses, 38. KINTILLO. See Kintulloch. KINTOKE, a parish, containing the post-town of Kintore and a suburb of the burgh of Inverury, in the Garioch district of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded hy the parishes of Inverury, Keith-hall, Fintray, Kinellar, Skene, and Kemnay. Its length nortli- ward is about miles ; and its greatest breadth is a little upwards of 3 miles. The river Don forms its boundary on the north and on the east. The Tuach burn rises on the south-west border, and runs north- eastward to the Don. The surface of the parish is low and flat along the Don, and rises thence gradu- ally, but with frequent inequalities ; and does not anywhere attain a greater altitude than on the beautiful wooded hill of Thainston, whose summit has an elevation of about 140 feet above the ordinary level of the Don at the town of Kintore, and about 280 feet above the medium level of the sea. The soil along the Don is a deep rich alluvial loam; that in the higher situations is generally a thin, light, shallow, sandy mould; and that of some other tiacts of considerable extent is moss, either altered by cultivation, or remaining in its original state. The tract along the Don is liable to inundations, which have occasionally so far covered it, as to give it the appearance of a lake about a mile in breadth. The total extent of aiable land is about 3,900 imperial acres; of permanent pasture or waste lands, 1,5)8(5 acres; of waste lands capable of cultivation, 160 acres ; and of lands under wood, 1 ,892 acres. Granite abounds, both loose on the surface, and in rocks which have been or may be quarried. The chief landowners are the Earl of Kintore and Mitchell of Thainston. The only considerable private residence is Thainston-house, which is handsome and com- modious. The estimated yearly value of raw pro- duce in 1842 was £10,749 ; the value of assessed property in 1860, £r>,409. This district is said to iiave anciently formed part of a royal forest, extend- mg eastward hence to the church of Dyce ; and the name Kintore, which seems to have been applied to the western or upper end of the forest, certainly signifies " the head of the wood." Part of the forest, with a hunting-seat or castle called Hall Forest, was given by Roliert Bruce to Robert de Keith, great marischal of Scotland, after the battle of Bannockburn ; and the district still remains in the hands of his descendants, the family of Kintore. havintr been bestowed, in the I7tli century, by the Earl Marischal, on his son Sir John Keith, who wa« created Earl of Kintore by Charles II., in 1677, on account of his alleged instrumentality in preserving the regalia of Scotland during the troubles of the civil wars. The castle comprised four stoi-ies, with battlements; and it still exists in a state of imposing ruin, a little south of the town of Kintore. On a juoor between Kintore and Kinellar are numerous tunuili. See Kinei,i,ai;. The lorid from Aberdeen to Inverness, and the Great North of Scotland rail- way, pass up the Don ; and the latter has a station ior Kintore. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,184; in IS'Jl, 1,895. Houses, 333. This parish is in the presbytery of Garioch, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Kintore. Stipend, £184 Ss. ]0d.; glebe, £23. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with about £28 fees, and a share in the Dick bequest. The ])arish church was built in 1819, and contains 700 sittings. There is a Free church: attendance 380; sum raised in 1865, £213 14s. 6d. There are a side school, a Free church school, a subscription school, two congi'egationnl libraries, and a savings' hank. The present parish of Kintore comprises part of the ancient ])arish of Kinkell. The Town of Kixtoub is a royal burgh. It stands near the Don, on the road from Aberdeen to Inverness, 3 miles south-south-east of Inverury, and 12 north-west of Aberdeen. It consists chiefly of one well-built street, and has a neat town-house. It contains several very good shop.*, and is a focus of communication for the surrounding country; yet, in point of size, it is a mere village. As a royal burgh, it is of great antiquity, claiming priority to Aberdeen ; and indeed, — according to the writer of the Old Statistical Account, and others, — priority, by no less than three centuries, to the very earliest period when burghal privileges were first known in Scotland. That it was elevated to the rank of a royal burgh by Kenneth Macalpine is by no means proliable ; but it may have been so in the 12tli cen- tury. The only old charter it now possesses is one by James IV., in 150(5, confirming others of a moi'c ancient date — destroyed, it is alleged, by one of its own provosts in the 17th century. By the govern- ing charter it was appointed to be governed by a provost, two bailies, a treasurer, a dean-of-guild, and eight councillors. It has no corporate revenue. It unites with Inverury, Peterhead, Banff", CuUen, and Elgin, in sending a member to parliament. Its constituency in 1862 was 40. It gives the title of Earl, as we have already intimated, to the younger branch of the Keith family, or Keith-Falconer. In 1838, Anthony, the eighth Earl, was created Baron Kintore, in the peerage of the United Kingdom. Population of the town in 1841, 402 ; in 1861, 5G8. Houses, 100. KINTRA, a post-oftice village in the south of the parish of Kilmelfort, Argyleshire. It stands at the head of Loch Craignish, on the road fiom Lochgilp- head to Oban, 8 miles south by east of Kilmelfort. It has a good inn. KINTRADWELL, a small bay and an estate in the south of the parish of Loth, about 3 miles north of Brora, Suthcrlandshire. KINTULLOCH, a village in the parish of Dun- barnie, about ^ a mile south of the church of Dun- barnie, Perthshire. It is remarkable for the tasteful conditi(ni of its cottages. Hugh Say, an English- man, obtained a grant of the lands of Kintuiloch, under William the Lion ; and his sister Arabella, who became his heir, granted part of them to the monks of Scoue. Population of the village, 139. Houses, 33. KINTYKE. 241 KIPPEN. KINTYRE, the southern division of Argyleshire. It is a peninsula lying between the frith of Clyde and the Atlantic ocean, and joined to Knapdale by the narrow isthmus of Tarbert. It extends about 40 miles from north to south, and is about 6J miles in average breadth, consisting partly of low and partly of higli land ; and embraces the parishes of Camp- helton, Kilberry, Kilcalmonell, Killean, Kilchenzie, Saddle, 8kipness, and Southend. It contains the royal burgh of Campbelton, and the villages of Dal- intober, Drumlemble, Tarbert, Clachan, and some fishing hamlets. As a district also, it comprises the insular parish of Gigha and Cara. Population of the district in 1831, 20,632 ; in 1861, 15,309. Houses, 2,401. Kintyre, down to the 17th century, was reckoned part of the Hebrides, and figured as one of these islands in history. The origin of this was a strata- gem of Magnus Bai'efoot, king of Norway, who having conquered the Isles, made an agreement witli Malcolm Canmore, by which the latter was to leave Magnus and his successors in peaceable pos- session of all the Isles which could be circumnaviga- ted. Magnus had himself di'awn across the narrow isthmus between Kintyre and Knapdale in a galley; by whicli, it was allowed in these simple times, he succeeded in adding Kintyre to the possessions ac- corded him by the treaty. — When the Lords of the Isles ruled in all the pomp of royalty, Kint3n-e was reckoned part of their dominions. Bruce bestowed the keeping of Tarbert castle, then the most impor- tant position on the Argyle coast, on Robert, the son and heir of Walter, the high-steward. Under David II. the lands of Kintyre reverted to the de- scendants of Angus Oig. In 1498, King James held his court at a new castle he had caused to be erected at the head of the bay of Campbelton, and Argyle was appointed keeper of Tarbert castle. The Macdonalds, liowever, stoutly and often suc- cessfully resisted the influence of the Campbells in this quarter, until their last and final suppression in 1615. In 1476, the Earl of Ross was compelled to resign Kintyre and Knapdale to the Crown. KINTYRE (McLL of), the promontory at the southern extremity of the peninsula of Kintyre, in Argyleshire. It was called by the Romans Epidium Promontorium. It is the nearest point of Great Britain to Ireland, being only 11^ miles distant from Tor-point in the county of Antrim. It presents a strong front to the waves of the Atlantic; and ex- hibits, in time of a storm, a very wild and sublime appearance. A mountain called Knockmoy adjoins it, and commands a most magnificent prospect of the surrounding seas and coasts. A lighthouse stands on the promontory, on the rocks called the Merchants, elevated 297 "feet above the level of the sea at high-water. The light is fixed, and is seen at 22 miles distance in clear weather. The point of Corsewall bears south- south-east from this, 26 miles; Portpatrick light, south by east 37 miles; the Maid- en rocks south by west ^ west distant 20 miles ; Copeland light, south by west J west distant 38 miles. KINRAID. See Monedie. KIP (The). See Innerkip. KIPLxVW. See Linton, Roxburghshire. KIPPEN, a parish partly in Stirlingshire, and partly in Perthshire, yet quite compact, and all l.ying on the south side of the Forth. The Stirlingshire section contains the post-office villages of Kippen and Buchlyvie ; and the Perthshire section contains tlie villages of Shirgarto^i, Cauldhame, Arnprior, and Kepp. The parish is bounded by Port-of-Mon- teith, Kincardine, Kilmadock, Gargunnock, Balfron, and Drymen. Its length eastward is 6i miles; and TT. its greatest breadth is 4 miles. The Forth wends slowly along the northern boundary, within a narrow channel, between banks from 10 to 20 feet high, and exhibiting a very tame appeai-ance. Yet, from van- tage-grounds in its vicinity, magnificent views are obtained of the far-stretching strath through which it flows, from Gartmore on the west, away to wliere the rocks of Abbey-craig, Craigforth, and Stirling castle, appear like islands in the distance. Boquhan- burn comes in from the south near its source, and flows for 4J miles along the south-eastern and east- ern boundary to the Forth. The Pow of Glinns rises on the southern border, and flows southward to the Endrick. Along the Forth stretches a narrow belt of haugh, very fertile, and equally adapted to tillage and to pasture. Behind this lies a belt of carse-ground, generally from half-a-mile to a mile in breadth, but in some places broader, and forming part of the great plain which extends on both sides of the Fortli from Gartmore to Borrowstounness. From the carse the surface rises at first abruptly, and then very gradually in most places for about a mile, and in others further; and continuing for a considerable space to be flat or to form a table-land, it declines toward the south. Where this upland territory springs fiom the carse, it exhibits the dis- tinctive appearances of a river-bank deserted by its stream. The land on the slow northern slope, above the basement skirting, exhibits a pleasing view of fruitful fields, generally well-enclosed, and occasion- ally intersected with glens, pouring down their tiny rills. The tr,ble-land, and part of the southern slope of the uphimls, are a continuous moor, known as the moor of Ki]ipen. The southern slope, altogether little more than half-a-mile, is carpeted with a soil lighter and less fertile than that of the northern slope. The interjacent valley, at its base between this parish and Gargunnock, where it is traversed by Boquhan-burn, is very narrow. That burn, says General Campbell, " which, descending from the rock of Ballochleam, maizes little impression on the strata of limestone or iron, meets at last with the red sandstone, through which it has opened a passage, and wrought its soft materials into a number of curious shapes, such as the wells and caldrons of the Devon. It is yet remembered when it burst through a large pi-ojection of the rock, and threw the mill, with all its appendages, on the other side of the bank." About 1,807 imperial acres of the entire parochial area are arable carse-land; about 3,431 are arable dryfield; about 4,256 are pastoral or waste ; and about 562 are under wood. Red sand- stone abounds in the moors, and is quarried for building, and limestone occurs on the southern bor- der, but has been little wrought. There are seven principal landowners, besides a number of smaller ones. The estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1841 was £16,069. Assessed property in I860, £5,901. A distillery, now extinct, paid £17,000 a- year of duty. The "parish is traversed by the rond from Stirling to Dumbarton, and by the Forth and Clvde railway. On five or six small heights are oval plains, surrounded by ramparts, averaging 130 yards in circumference, and variously conjectured to be of Roman, of Pictish, and of feudal origin. In former times, the district was much infested by marauding parties of the Highland clans; and, in 1691, it suf- fered special lo.ss fiom an irruption of the gillies of Rob Roy. Populntion - KIRKCALDl'. 243 KIRKCALDY Illation of the parish in 1831, 802; in 1861, 942. llonses, 17fi. This parish is in the presbytery and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of i3accleach. Sti- pend, £202 12s. 8d. ; glebe, £18. Schoohnasters salary now is £52 2s., with £28 fees, and upwards of £2'5 other emoluments. The parish church was built in 176(5; and a handsome tower attached to it, and surmounted by a dome, was built in 1840. Tliere is a Free church for Kirkliean and SouthwicU, ■with an attendance of 300; and tlie sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £80 2s. 5d. There are a private school, and a public subscription library. The ancient church belonged to the college of Lincluden. KIRK BORTHWICK. See B(nrriiwiCKBRAE. KIRKBOST. See Kirkibbost. KIRKBRIDE. See Kilbride, M.vybolk, and KiRKPATRiCK -Durham. KIRKBUDDO. See GuTiiitiE. KIRK-BURN. See Cambuslaxg and Dukris- DEKR. KIRKCALDY, a political district in Fifeshire. It extends from the fi ith of Forth at Dysart to the south foot of the Mid-Lomond hill, and from the west side of Largo bay to Benarty hill, on the boundary with Kinross-shire. Its length south- westward is 14 miles; and its breadth is 9 miles. It contains the parishes of Kennoway, Scoonie, Wemyss, Markinch, Leslie, Kinglassie, Dysart, Kirkcaldy, Abbotshall, Auchterderran, Ballingry, Auchtertool, Kinghorn and Burntisland. Popula- tion in 1831, 41,760; in 1861, 38,891. Houses, 5,982. KIRKCALDY, a parish, containing a royal burgh of its own name, on the south coast of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Abbotshall, Auchterderran, and Dysart. Its length northward is about 2J miles ; and its breadth is less tlian 1 mile. Its extent of coast line is about I of a mile. The beach is level and sandy; and the surface thence inland is for a short way flat, then ascends rather abruptly, and afterwards ascends more gradually to the northern boundary, attaining altogether an extreme elevation of about 300 feet above the level of the sea. About 160 imperial acres are planted; and all the rest of the area, except what is occupied by houses and roads, is in tillage. The soil of the low district is light, and that of the higher grounds is cold and stiff. The rocks belong to the coal formation. Coal is worked; and considerable quantities of iron ore are found. Seven-eighths of the land belong to Oswald of Dunnikier; and the other eighth is much divided. The only mansion is Dun- nikier-house ; but there are several fine villas. Pop- ulation in 1831, 5,034; in 1861, 6,100. Houses, 581. Assessed property in 1862, £26,647. This parish is the seat of a presbytery, in the synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £246 lis. 5d. ; glebe, £30. Unappropriated teinds, £268 16s. 7d. The parish church stands near the middle of the town, on the rising-ground to the north of the High-street. It was built in 1807, and contains 1,500 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Port Brae, built in 1842, and containing 840 sittings. There is a Fiee church at Kirkcaldy ; whose receipts ill 1865 amounted to £879 lis. There are also an United Presbyterian church, erected in 1822, with 750 sittings; an Independent chapel, erected in 1803, witli 480 sittings ; a Scottish Baptist chapel, erected in 1822, with 350 sittings; and an Episcopalian cha- pel, erected about eight years ago, with 300 sittings. Within the parliamentary burgh of Kirkcaldy, which includes parts of the parishes of Abbotshall and Kinghorn, there were in 1851, at the time when the Census was taken, three Establishment plac-s of worship, with 2,329 sittings, and an attendance of 1,467; four Free church places of worship, three of them with 2,190 sittings, and the four with an at- tendance of 1,668; three United Presbyterian places of worship, with 2,370 .sittings, and an attendance of 1 ,307 ; one Independent chapel, with an attendance of 161; two Baptist chapels, with an attendance of 222; one Episcopalian chapel, with an attendance of 85; one Roman Catholic chapel, with 300 sittings; and two places of worship belonging to isolated con- gregations, with 210 sittings, and an attendance of 74. There are in the parish of Kirkcaldy a burgh school, conducted by a vector, who has a salary of £50, and an assistant, who has a salary of £40; a charity school, supported, in common with kindred schools in Pathhead, Linktown. and Kinghorn, by a bequest of £75,000, left by Robert Philip, Esq., in 1828; three schools for young ladies, in the higher departments of education ; five for girls, in the ordi- nary departments of education ; and six of the ordi- nary class of private schools. The parish of Kirk- caldy, previous to 1650, comprised also the territory which now forms the parish of Abbotshall. Its name is derived from a place of worship in the an- cient times, belonging to the Culdees. This was called Kilcnlda ; and that word was easily corrupted into Kirkcaldv. KIRKCALDY, a royal burgh, a seaport, and a market town, stands on the coast of Fifeshire, 10 miles in a direct line north of Edinburgh, but 14 miles thence by railway-, and 18 miles south-south- west of Cupar. As a royal burgh, it stands wholly within the parish of Kirkcaldy, extending from side to side of the seaboard of that parish ; but as a par- liamentary burgh, it also extends southward across the parish of Abbotshall, and into the parish of Kinghorn, comprising Linktown in the former of these parishes, and Invertiel in the latter; and as a town, it is prolonged on the north by Pathhead. Sinclairtovvn, and Gallaton. Its length, as a royal burgh, is less than a mile; but its length as a town, from Invertiel on the south to Gallaton on the north, is about 3J miles ; so that it well merits the name, by which it has been long known to fame, " the lang toon o' Kirkcaldy,"— the more so as it has no where any considerable breadth, but consists in great measure of little more than one line of street. The roval burgh extends along the low flat ground adjacent "to the shore. It comprises one principal street, and several cross streets and lanes; the latter partly running from the principal street towards the sea, and partly ascending the high bank to the north, where there is another street partly built, running parallel to the principal on--. The principal sti-eet is in general narrow, crooked, and inconveni- ent; but in 1811. an act of pariiameiit was obtained for widening and paving the streets, and lighting and watering the town, since which considerable improvements have been made. The town is well- lighted with gas, first introduced in 1830, and is also w'ell-supplied with water. The principal street lias been in many places widened; and though many of the bouses are still irregularly placed, it has been much improved by the erection of numbers of sub- stantial and elegant buildings. A number of ele- gant shops of various kinds, especially those of drapers and haberdashers, tend considerably to or- nament the town, as also to indicate the wealth and taste of large part of the inhabitants. When tlie town used to be traversed by strangers, only in con- veyances along its principal street-line, it presented such a prolonged, close, dingy, monotonous appear- ance, as to leave a very unpleasant impression on the mind ; but now, as seen from the Ediiibuigh, KIRKCALDY. 244 KIRKCALDY. Perth, and Dundee railway, it looks altogether dif- ferent. That railway approaches it from the south on a high viaduct of six arches, and passes along the entire north side of the town, amid pleasant suburbs of bleachfields and ornate cottages, commanding thence comprehensive views of the town as a whole, and of the sea and couTitry aroiuid it. Considerable alterations and extensions of tlie street-architecture were made in 1S60-2. The town-hall, in the princi- pal street near the middle of tlie town, is a neat small editice, in the Koman style, built in 1332, at a cost of about £5,000. The corn-exchange is a com- modious structure, erected in 1859-60, at a cost of up- wards of £2,000. Tlie parish church is a handsome edifice, in the Gothic style, built in 1807, at the cost of about £3,000. One of the other places of worship, in the High-street adjacent to the sea, is likewise an elegant building, erected in 1842, at the cost of nearly £2,000. Kirkcaldy first comes into notice in liistoiy in 1334. It %vas mortified in that yenr by David II. to the monastery of Dunfermline; and it became a burgh of barony, holding of the abbot and monas- tery. In 1450, it was conveyed by the monastery, together with its harbour, its burgh-acres, its small customs, and its municipal rights, to the bailies and community; and innnediately thereafter it was erected into a royal burgh, with all the customary privileges. Its original charter, and all the privi- leges which it contained, were not only specially ratified by a charter of confirmation granted by Charles 1. in 1644; but tiie burgh, for good and gra- tuitous services performed by it, was eiecteA de novo into a free royal burgh and free jwit, and new and larger immunities granted to it. Nothing is au- thentically known of its state at the time of its being disjoined from the lordship of Dunfermline; but as the churchmen were among the earliest cultivators of foreiirn commerce, it seems reasonable to suppose that Kirkcaldy was the port of the monks of that abbey, and that it consequently must have received benefit from the foreign connnerce of the period, such as it was. At a later period, and before the Union with England, we know that the wliole of the burghs on the coast of Fife enjoyed a large share of trade, not only with the Continent, but with England. They were extensively engaged in the fisheries, and exported not only salted fish, but salt and coals. Of the commerce of the period, Kirkcaldy enjoyed a principal share; and tradition relates, that when this charter was renewed by Charles I., it had lOd sail of ships belonging to it. This tradition is su])- ported by the evidence of an authentic account pre- served among the records of the buigh, from which it appears that 94 vessels belonging to the port, had been either lost at sea, or taken by the enemy, be- tween the year 1644 and the period of the Restora- tion. These are said to have amounted in value to the sum of £53,791 sterling. This severe loss must have tended greatly to check the prosperity of the town; but other occurrences connected witli the un- liappy disputes of the period, must have increased this in a great degree. At the time that Dundee was taken by General Monk, the inhabitants of Kirkcaldy lost goods to the value of £5,000 sterling, which they had deposited there as a place of security ; and several of the wealthier inhabitants suffered the loss of considerable sums of money which they had lent to the committee of estates fin- the public service, and which they found it impossible after- wards to recover. During the course of the civil war, 480 persons belonging to this burgh were slain in liattle; of whom 200 were said to have been killed at the battle of Kilsyth alone. All these losses, aggravated by the suspension of the trade with Holland after the Restoration, brought ruin and deep distress upon the burgh; so much so, that in 1682, an application was made to the Convention of burghs to consider its pro])erty, and to take measures for easing it of its public burden. The burgh, however, having fallen under the dis]deasuro of the Court, for the part it had taken during the civil war, was not only refused all relief, but was rather burdened by an addition to its annual assessment of 2,000 merks. In 1687, a new application was made to the Con- vention, when a visitation of the burgh was or- dered. A conunittee for the purpose met at Kirk- caldy the following year, which, after proper inves- tigation, reported "that the customs pabable to His ^iajesty were not the half of what they had been some years before; that this was occasioned by the death of many substantial merchants and skippers, and loss of ships and decay of trade; that many of the inhabitants, some of whom were magistrates of the bin-gh, had fled from and deserted the same; that so great was the poverty of the inhabitants, that all the taxations imj'osed on the town could do no more than pay the eight months' cess payable to the King, and that with difficulty." Before the effect of this report could be known, the Revolution took place, into which the inhabitants of Kirkcaldy entered with alacrity; and in consequence of their conduct on the occasion, and a representation ot their poverty, they obtained an abatement of £1,000 >'cots from their anrual assessment. This relief, and the security which the country enjoyed after this great event, had such effect upon this burgii that its languishing commerce began speedily to revive, and wealth again began to circulate among its inhabitants. The treaty of the Union, however, again, for a time, put a stop to the prosperity of Kirkcaldy. In consequence of the taxes and Cuh- toms which were imposed in Scotland, and the numerous restrictions with wdiich the trade of the country was fettered by the Engliih, connnerce every where declined; nor did any place suffer more than the various towns on the coast of Fife. The shipping of Kirkcaldy, on which it had hitherto mainly depended, fell rapidly into decay; and the different wars which followed for more than half-a- century, so continued to depress trade, that in 1760, Kirkcaldy employed no more than one coaster of 50 tons, and two ferry-lx)ats of 30 tons each. On the return of peace in 1763, the shipping trade immediately began to revive. In 1772, it had increased to 11 vessels, carrying 515 tons, and 49 men; and although its progress was retarded by the American war, it amounted at the close of that war to 12 vessels, carrying 750 tons, and 59 men. In 1792, its shipping consisted of 26 squaie-i-igged vessels, 1 sloop, and 2 ferry-boats, carrying, by tlie register, 3,700 tons, and employing 225 men. Son)e of the larger vessels were employed in the trade to the Mediterranean, the West Indies, and America; but the greater proportion were employed in tlie trade to Holland and the Baltic. The smaller vessels were employed chiefly as coasters. Since then, its shii>i)ing trade has gone on prosperously, with some fluctuations indeed, but on the whole witii progressive increase. In 1831, it had 95 vessels, with an aggregate tonnage of 10,610; and in 1861 it had 74 sailing vessels, with an aggregate tonnage of 7.337, and two steam vessels of 121 tons Its limits as a port extend from Fifeness on the east to Downey-point on the west, and comprise the creeks of Crail, Cellardykes, Anstruther, Pitten- weem, Elie, Largo, Leven, Methill, Buckhaveii, Wemyss, Dysart, Kinghorn, I'.urntisland, and Aber- dour." The amount of dues levied on sliips within KIRKCALDY. 245 KIRKCALDY. its port, in the year 1852, was £3,172; of which i'1,322 was levied at its own liarbour, £78 at Crail, £263 at Anstrutlier, £100 at Pittenweem, £27 at Largo, £185 at Leveii. £87 at Met- hill, £207 at Buckhaven, £113 at Dysart, £30 at Kiiighorn, £632 at Burntisland, and £124 at Aber- dour. During the year 1860, the trade of the port comprised, in the foreign and colonial department, a tonnage of 6,753 inwards in British vessels, 14,192 inwards in foreign vessels, 10,425 outwards in Ihit- ish vessels, and 46,785 outwards in foi-eign vessels; and in the coasting department, 32,512 inwards in British vessels, 186 inwards in foreign vessels, 64,353 outwards in Biitish vessels, and 371 out- wards in foreign vessels. There are regular com- munications, by smacks or other vessels, with Lon- don, Glasgow, Leith, and various parts of the coast. The foi'eign ships visiting the port are principally Norwegian, Danish, German, and Prussian. The principal articles of import are flax and timber; and the principal articles of export are coals and linen yarns. The harbour is situated near the east end of the burgh. It is the property of the town, yet is under the management of parliamentary commissioners. It has been impioved and extended at various times; but, till only a few 3'ears ago, it was destitute of almost every accommodation suitable to the large vessels frequenting it, — dry at low water, even at the ebb of neap tides, and boasting nothing better than ample space and substantial piers. In 1836 a light was placed on the east pier. In 1843 a re- solution was taken to extend that pier and to effect other improvements, at the cost of £10,000. In 1850 still more extensive improvements were re- solved upon, comprising a new dock of about 2f acres, an inner harbour of 3 acres, an outer har- bour of about IJ acre, with a total wharfage of 3,110 feet, to be effected at the cost of about £30,000. These latter improvements, it was cal- culated, would slightly affect the current at the harbour mouth, but would do so beneficially, and prevent accumulations of silt. The rise and fall of the tide at the harbour is about 10 feet in neap tides, about 18 feet in ordinary spring tides, and about 2 1 feet in extreme spring tides. The flow of the current runs right across the harbour mouth, from east to west, or from west to east, at the rate of from 1^ to 2 miles an hour. The new quays were to be formed to the height of about 2 feet above high water, and would have 16 feet of water abreast in ordinary spring tides. The principal employment in Kirkcaldy is the manufacture of linen cloth. This was little at- tended to till after the destruction of the foreign trade, in consequence of the Union. At that time, however, the manufacturers wove their own webs, and probably purchased in the surrounding district; so that they employed but little capital. In 1733, the whole amount of linen cloth stamped at Kirkcaldy, was no more than 177,740 yards. In 1743, it had increased to 316,550 yards, the com- puted value of which was nearly £11,000 sterling. But this included not only the manufacture of Kii'k- caldv, but that also of circumjacent parishes as far as Leslie. Tlie linen trade continued to be dili- gently prosecuted, and gradually to increase, till about 1755, when it amounted to about the value of £22,000 stei'ling. In consequence, however, of the war which then began, interrupting the intercourse with America and the West Indies, the manufacture began to decline; and, in 1773, it had fallen to £15,000 sterini,:^-, and in the tuUowing year it was still lower. But IMr. James Fergus, an enterpris- ing manufacturer of the pciiod, succeeded in open- ing up a new channel for disposing of the manu- factures of Kirkcaldy, by intioducing them into England; and since that time they have gone on rapidly increasing. In 1792, they employed about 810 looms, of which about 250 were in the parish of Kirkcaldy, abnut 300 in the parish of Abbotshall, about 100 in Dysart, about 60 in Largo, and the rest in other parishes. 'J'he total value of the manufacture at that time was supposed to be about £45,000 sterling; and at that time the manu- facturers of Kirkcakly purchased from the neigh- bouring districts good's to the farther value of about £30,000 sterling. In more recent times the linen trade of the town, together with that of the sur- rounding districts, which are either identified with it or intimately connected with it, have been com- puted to amount in annual value to about £200.000. Its chief articles of produce are ticks, dowlas, checks, and sail-cloth. Connected with this trade also, and to an extent somewhat corresponding to it, are carried on flax-spinning, yarn-bleaching, and machine-making. There are at present, in the town and its neighbourhood, 13 flax spinning mills, 7 bleachfields, and 3 machine-factories. There are likewise a rope-work, two extensive iron-works, an iron-ship-building yard, a chemical work, a dis- tillery, breweries, and flour mills. A large retail trade is carried on in Kirkcaldy for the supply of a populous circumjacent country. A weekly stock-market for the sale of grain is held every Saturday, at which not only the farmers and corn-factors of a large surrounding district attend, but also corn-merchants from the south side of the Forth. Cattle-markets are held in the months of February, July, and Octobei', which are well at- tended. The town has offices of the Bank of Scot- land, the Commercial bank, the Union bank, the National bank, and the City of Glasgow bank. It has also a savings' bank, a number of insui'ance agencies, a chamber of commerce, a public reading room, a subscription library, a mechanics' library, an agricultural society, a horticultural society, a scientific association, a curling club, and a number of charitable and leligious institutions. Its princi- pal inns are the National, the George, the Harbour- head, and the Balsusney. Ample facilities of com- munication are enjoyed by means of steamers and the railway. The burgh is governed by a provost, two bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, sixteen other council- lors, and a town-clerk. The magistrates have all the powers possessed by magistrates of royal burghs, and hold regular courts for the decision of civil causes and the trial of crimes. Justice of- peace courts for the recovery of smnll debts for the town and several surrounding parishes, are also held here at stated periods; and circuit small-debt courts, in the months of Januar}', March, May. July, September, and November. The income of theburgh for 1838-9 was £1,942, and for 1860-61, £716 odds; but the latter is exclusive of £1,715 odds. 6s. OJd. of harbour commission revenue. The ex- penditure in 1838-9 was £1,511; and the debt in 1832 was £8,646. The old incorporated trades are the smiths, the wrights and masons, the weavers, the shoemakers, the tailors, the bakers, and the fleshers. Previous to the Union, Kirkcaldy sent a member to the Scottish parliament; and after that event, it sent one to the British parliament in con- junction with the neighbouring burghs of Dysart, Kinghorn, and Burntisland. This arrangement has been continued since the passing of the Keform bill, Kirkcaldy being the returning burgh. 'i"he muni- cipal constituency in 1840 was 277; in 18G2, 306". The parliamentary constituency in 1840 was 298; KIRKCHRIST. 240 KIKKCONNEL. in 1862, 434. Population of the royal burgh in 1841, 4,785; in 1861, 5,195. Houses, '469. Population of tlic parliamentary Imrgli in 1861, 10,841. Houses, 951. The town of Kirkcaldy, in ancii-nt times, had two Elates called the East Port and the West Port. These ^ates, and a cross which stood at the market place, were taken down early in the last century; but the places where the gates or ports stood still retain their names. Stone coflins and larpje quantities of human hones have been discovered in various places in diggino: for modern foundations; and these in- dicate that the locality, long before the era at which the town figures in record, was a considerable seat of population. Sculptured arms and inscriptions, as well as some other relics, found in a place on the north side of the High street, indicate that a conventual establishment at one time stood on that locality. — Henry 15alnaves of Hailliill, who figured in the latter part of the reign of James v., and during that of his daughter ]\Iary, and the regency of her brother Murray, is said to iiave been a native of Kirkcaldy. In later times, Kirkcaldy had the honour of giving birth to tiie celebrated Adam Smith, who successively occupied the chairs of moral philosophy in the universities of Glasgow and Edinburgh. The house in whicli he was born stood till not many years ago, and was situated immediately to the west of that now occupied by the Bank of Scotland. The Hon. Mr. Oswald of Dnnnikeir, an eminent states- man and patriot, who long represented the burgh in parliament, was also a native of this town. KIRK-f'AMHUSNETHAN. See Cambusnethan. KIRKCHRIST, a suppressed parish, forming the southern part of the present parish of Twynholm, Kirkcudbrightshire. Tlie etymology of the name is sufficiently obvious. The cemetery, and the ruins of the church — the foi-iner still in use — are situated on the riglit bank of the Dee, opposite the town of Kirkcudbright. A nunnery, the site of which can- not now bo exactly ascertained, anciently stood in the parish; and is commemorated in the names of two farms and a mill. High Nuntown, Low Nun- town, and Numnill, near the southern boundary. KIRKCHRIST, Aberdeenshire. See Chkist's Kirk. KIRKCOLM. a parish, containing the post-office stations of Kirkcolm and Ervie, in the extreme north of the Rliinns district of Wigtonshire. It is bounded on the west and north by the Irish sea; on the east by Loch Ryan ; and on the south by the parish of Leswalt. Its length southward is 5j miles; and its breadth is a little upwards of 5 miles. Its draining streams are all little burns, rising in its own in- terior; and there is a fresh water lake, called Loch- Connel, ai)0ut a mile in circumierence. The coast line along Loch Ryan extends 5J miles. At one part of it, nearly 2 miles from the southern bound- ary, a shelving sand-bank, ^ of a mile broad, runs south-eastward, or obliquely, Ih mile into the Loch, and is not quite under water, even in the highest spring-tides. It is called the Scar. Between the south-west side of this and the coast, is a beautiful basin, called the Wig, capacious enough to shelter a large number of small vessels. Beyond a small point of land, called the Scar, is a bank of prime oysters. Crabs and lobsters, whitings, cod, and herring are taken in the Loch; but, ou the west and north coast, where fishing might be productive, it is much neglected. The coast, for 2J miles on Loch Ryan, from the southern boundary, is low and sandy; and thence — excepting at the small bay of Portmore, 1| mile to the north, which offers good anchorage and shelter to large vessels— it is, all the way round to the southern boundary on the west, a breastwork of bold and ridgy rocks, torn with fis- sures, and near the entrance of Loch Ryan deeply perforated with caves. On the north-west is Cohsi".- WALI, Point [which see], with its conspicuous light- house. The surface of the parish is gently undulat- inir, the rising grounds so easy in ascent as to br ploughed and cultivated to the summit. The soil, on a narrow belt round the slioi-e, is thin and sandy or gravelly; in a few patches, it is mossv or moor- land; and, in most places, it is either a rich loam, a deep clay, or a mixture of the two. The propor- tions of arable land, and land either meadow, moss, pastoral, or waste, are as 17 to 2. As regards plantation, the district is exceedingly bare; but it is rich in the variety of its botanical specimens. Near the north const are the ruins of Corsewall- castle, once a place of strength, a tower of great thickness of wall. East of it, overlooking Loch Ryan, is the modern mansion of Corsewall house. There are nine or ten landowners. The estimated value of raw produce in IB."?, was £19,600. As- sessed property in 1860, £9.5()S. Real rental in 1856, £9,009. "Population in 1831, 1,896; in 1861, 1,860. Houses, 322. This parish is in the presbytery of Stranraer, and synod of Galloway. Patrons, the Earl of Stair and Moore of Corsewall. Stipend. £265 Os. lid. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £195 4s. lid. School- master's salary, £40, with £30 fees, and £10 other emoluments. The parish chuieh was built in 1824, and contains 650 sittings. There is a Free church; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £180 7s. 4^d. There are two non-parochial sciiools. The patron saint to whom the ancient parish church was dedicated was St. Columba, the name being ab- breviated into ' Colm.' The chufch was a free par- sonage till the 13th century; and afterwards, till t!io Reformation, it was held by the monks of New- abbey, and served by a vicar. The lands of Gald- enoch and Barjary, at the south enil of the old parish, were detached from it, in the middle of the 17th century, and annexed to Leswalt. In the south-west corner of the parish, on the shore of Loch Ryan, are vestiges of an ancient chapel dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary, and called Kilmorie, the church of Mary. Beside it is the Virgin Mary's well, celebrated among ancient Romanists for alleged miraculous powers of healing, and resorted to so late as the close of the 17th centuiy by the deluded peasantry in the neighboui-hood, for the cure of the sick. KIRKCONNEL, a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, at the northern extremity of Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire. It is bounded by Ayrshire, Lanarkshire, and the parish of Sanquhar. Its length west-south-westward is 17 miles; and its breadth is 7 miles. The river Nith, coming in from the west, flows eastward 4^- miles through the in- terior, and IJ mile along the southern boundary. Kello water, coming in from the south-west, not fai from its source, runs 5 J miles along the same boundary, and falls into the Nith. Crawick water flows 5i miles along the south-east boundary. Spango water, a head stream of the Crawick, runs in the north-east. Two mineral wells, on the farm ol Rigg, IJ mile west of the village of Kirkconnel, re- semble respectively Merkland spa in Galloway and Hartfell spa near Mofl'at, but excel them in the strength of their waters, yet have never acquired much celebrity. The surface of the parish, in its general features, is pastoral and mountainous. In the south-west a range of lofty elevations, chiefly moss-clad and swampy, or clothed in heath with slight intermixtures of verdure, occupy all the aie-j KIRKCONNEL. 247 KIRKCUDBRIGHT. from the boundaries till within a mile of the Nith. On tlie north side of that stream, the surface rises from 1^ to 3 miles by a very slow and gradual ascent; and then sends up, parallel with the river, a ridge of irregularly formed heights, chiefly covered with verdure, and- extending from the towering Corsoncone, on the boundary with Ayrshire, away to the opposite extremity of the parish. North of this range the surtace is cold and marshy, and exhibits an irregular congeries of hills covered with heath and grass, and variously intersected with narrow valleys, deep glens, and winding rivulets. Two- thirds of the whole area is hill pasture; about 6,100 acres ai'e arable ; about 180 acres are under wood ; and the remainder is principally meadow and low pasture. The soil of the arable part is poor and gravelly. Much attention is given to the dairy. Coal abounds, but is not extensively worked; lime- stone and ironstone occur, but are neglected; and lead is suppose*! to exist in several hills toward Crawick. All the land, excepting a very small pro- portion, belongs to the Duke of Buccleuch. The real rental in I860 was £7,808. The estimated yearly value of raw agricultural produce in 1835 was £17,562. The parish is traversed, along the vale of the Nith, by the road from Glasgow to JDum- fries, and by the Glasgow and South-western rail- way; and it has a station on the latter, 28f miles from Kilmarnock, and 29| from Dumfries. The village of Kirkconnel stands on the left bank of the Nith, 3J miles north-west of Sanquhar. It is a modern place, of pleasant appearance. The site of Old Kirkconnel, and of the former parish church, is IJ mile north of the present village. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,111; in 1861, 996. Houses, 180. This parish is in the presbytery of Penpont, and svnod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £240 19s. 2d.; glebe, £18. Unappro- priated teinds, £569 12s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with £30 fees, and £3 other einoluments. The parish church was enlarged about 50 years ago, and 13 commodious. The ancient churchwas dedicated to a saint Connel, whom a very old tradition asserts to have been buried on Glenwhurry hill, near Old Kirkconnel; and the present minister of the parish lately satisfied himself, by personal inspection of the spot, that the tradition is true. KIRKCONNEL, a locality in the parish of New- abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire. Here is a neat Poman Catholic chapel, which was erected in 1823. KIRKCONNEL, an ancient parish, now in- corporated with that of Kirkpatrick-Fleming, in the south-east of Dumfries-shire. Its cemetery still exists in a rich holm, half surrounded by Kirtle water; and contains the ashes of "Fair Helen of Kirkconnel Lee," and those of her lover Adam Fleming, whose pathetic tale has been so often told both in prose and in verse. The instrument of the fair Helen's death has been vaiiously reported a dagger, an arrow, and a bullet; but the last of these is favoured by one of the best of the old songs, which says,— "Wae to the heart that fram'd the thought! Curst be the hand tliat fir'd tlie sliotl Wlieu in my arms Burd Ellen dropj/d, Aiid died for luve of me." KIRKCORMACK. See Kelton. KIRKCOWAN, a parish, containing a post-ofBce village of its own name, in Wigtonshire. It is bounded on the north by Ayrshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Penningham, Kirkinner, Mochrum. Old Luce, and New Luce. Its length southward is 14 miles; its greatest breadth is 5J miles; and its average breadth is not more than 2^ miles. Bladenoch Avater runs 3^ miles along the northern boundary, and falls, at the north-east ex- tremity of the parish, into Loch Macbeary. This lake having expanded itself southward" over a length of 1^ mile, with a breadth of ^ a mile, Blad- enoch water re-issues from it, and thence, till it leaves the parish, traces the long and sinuous east- ern boundary. Tarf water, a mile after its origin in the north-west corner of the parish, appears on the western boundary, and, measuring in a straight line, runs along that" boundarv 10 miles; then sud- denly debouches, and flows "3 J miles eastward to the Bladenoch. A number of burns and of small lakes water the interior. The surface of neariv the whole parish is naturally a series of bleak nioors, with poor and thin soil; which, though chiefly adapted to pasture, are not unsusceptible'of cultiva"- tion. The proportion which the grounds under tillage bear to those which are either pastoral or waste, is as 17 to 5. Granite and greywacke are extensively quarried. There are nine landowners. Craighlaw-house is the only mansion. The castle of Mindork formerly stood on the southern border. A singular rocking-stone was discovered a few years ago, on the fanu of Ui-rall in the north-east' and was inserted by the royal sappers and miners in their map as a great curiosity. It is a granite boulder 4f feet high, 16J feet in girth, sitting upon a flat rock, with a base in the fo)m of a wedge, so very nicely balanced that it can be easily moved to and fro by the pressure of a finger, and is even set in_ motion, and kept in motion, by a slight breeze of wind. The parish is traversed crossways by the road from Port-Patrick to Dumfries, and length- ways by a road from Wigton to Ayrshire. The village of Kirkcowan stands on the latter road, and on the left bank of Tarf water, 7 miles west- south- west of Newtown-Stewart, and 7 north-west of Wigton. Near it, on the river, is a woollen mill. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,374; in 1861, 1,434. Houses, 257. Assessed property in 1860, £7.079. Pop. of the village in 1861, 734. This parish is in the presbytery of AVigton, and synod of Galloway. Patron, Agnew of Sheuchan. Stipend, £292 lis". 8d. ; glebe, £6. Schoolmaster's salary now is £40, with £40 fees, and £5 or £6 other emoluments. There are three non-parochial schools. The ancient church seems to have been dedicated to St. Keuin, an abbot of the "Western Isles, at a time when these isles were scarcely peopled by Scots. The parish, accordingly, was anciently called Kirkuan. The church was granted by James IV. to the chapel-royal of Stirling. " KIRKCUDBRIGHT, a parish, containing a royal burgh of its own name, on the coast of Kirkcud- brightshire. It is bounded on the north by Kelton on the east by Rerwick; on the south by the Irish sea ; and on the west by the Dee, which divides it from Borgue, Twynholm, and Tongueland. Its length southward is 8| miles ; and its greatest breadth is 3i miles. Its surface is, for the most part, hillj-, having but little extended plain. But the hills are neither high nor rocky; they come down in gentle slopes, and form very obtuse angles with the plain; and they are generally arable to the summit, or at worst afford excellent pasture. The soil of the parish is, in some places, wet, upon a hard cold till ; but in most, it is a light friable earth, with a sharp gravelly subsoil, exceedingly fertile ; and, in some instances, it is deepest at the summit of the hills. About 3,000 acres are in tillage ; about 500 are waste or constantly in pasture; and about 500 are under wood. The feeding of sheep and of black cattle is a prime care; and the quality of the beef produced is lamous. The Earl of Selkirk KIRKCUDBRIGHT. 248 KIRKCUDBRIGHT. is the principal landowner. The mansions are St. Mary's Isle, B.ilinae. Janefield, St. Cuthbert's Cot- tage, and Fludha. The estimated value of raw pro- duce in 1843, including £5U0 for gardens, £1,000 for risheries, and £1,500 for miscellaneous matters, was £24,890; and tlie value of assessed property in 1860 was £15,038. Tlie prevailing rock is grey- wacke, with occasional masses and dikes of por- phyry. A ciialybeate spring exists near the burgii. King-burn traces the eastern boundary fur 4 miles, and falls into the sea. Grange-burn rises near the northern extremity, and runs 5 miles south-west- ward to the estuary of the Dee. Loch-Fergus, a lake now converted into a meadow, f of a mile east of the burgh, contained two islets called Palace Isle and Stable Isle, both of which bear decided marks of ancient fortification, and appear to have been the sites of castles or strengths of Fergus, lord of Gallo- way. A brook, 3 miles in length, comes down to this place from the northern boundary. The stream- lets noticed, and some lesser ones, refresh and cheer the aspect of the country, and afford excellent trouting. The Dee, first running along as a river, and next expanding into an estuary, is interesting at once for its scenery, its fishery, and its naviga- tion. The cataracts in it a little below the point where it first touches the parish of Kirkcudbright, and opposite the church of Tongueland — these ca- taracts, when the river is in flood, are exceedingly picturesque. Montgouiery is believed to have alluded to them in the following passage of his ■ Cherry and the Slae,' — " But as I looked me alane I saw a river rin Out o'er a steepie rock of stane, Sine liclited in a linn. With tumbling and rumbling Aman? the rockis round, Devalling and fulling Into a pit profound " There are, in this parish, vestiges more or less entire of no fewer than eight ancient British camps, and three Roman ones. Indeed, the whole eastern Ijanks of the Dee, which formed the western frontier of the Selgovae, seem to have been studded with ancient fortifications. The most important in size and strength is situated on the highest part of the farm of Drummore, and commands a very extensive prospect of the Solway frith and the Irish sea. It is large and surrounded with a deep fosse. Judging from its position and extent, the Britons probably assembled at it in considerable force to repel either the Romans, or the plundering Danes and Norwe- gians. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, supposes this to have been the Caerbantorigum, ' the fort on the conspicuous height,' mentioned by Ptolemy. Near it is a large circular stone-built well, which seems to have supplied it with water. A little south-west of it, at the entrance of Kirkcudbright bay, or the estuary of the Dee, are vestiges of a strong battery erected by William III., when his fleet was wind- bound in the bay on his passage to raise the siege of Londonderry. A little eastward, in a precipice on the coast, is a cave running 60 feet into the rock, of unequal height, narrow at the mouth, widening and rising as it proceeds till it attains the height of 12 feet or upwards, and then contracting toward the end. It was artificially furnished with a liutelled door, and seems from its sequestered situation, and the difficulty of access to it, to have anciently been an important hiding-place. Not far from this cave is a deep fosse, which marks the site of Raeberry- eastle, one of the strongholds of the once powerful family of ilaclellan of Bombie. This castle over- hung a very dreadful precipice on the coast, and was protected on the north side by a deep fosse, a tiiick wall, and a strong drawbridge. Sir Patrick Maclellan, its proprietor, near the middle of the loth century, was forcibly carried out of it by the truculent Earl of Douglas to undergo a tragical fate, which roused the slumbering indignation of the country against the despotic Douglases. Nearly 2 miles east from the burgh are utterly dilapidated vestiges of another castle of the Maclellans, — that of Bomljie, whence the}' took their designative title. Some antiquities of note fall to be noticed in con- nexion with the burgh. There have in recent years been dug up, in various parts of the parish, some flint hatchets, an old stone sarcophagus, a cup of Roman metal, a plate of pure gold worth £20, and quantities of silver coin of the reign of Edward I. Population of the parish in 1831,3,511; in 1861, 3,407. Houses, 549. See Mary's Isle (St.). This parish is the seat of a presbytery, in the synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £305 8s. 5d.; glebe, £16. Unappropriated teinds, £581 7s. 4d. The parish church was built in 1838., at the cost of about £7,000, and contains 1,510 sit- tings. There is a Free church of recent erection, containing 850 sittings; and the sum raised in con- nexion with it in 1865 was £421 3s. Id. There is an United Presbyterian church, built in 1822, at the cost of £1,100, and containing 550 sittings. There is a Roman Catholic place of worship, with 252 sittings. The principal school is the Kirkcud- bright academy, which has long maintained a high reputation, and is attended by about 200 pupils. It is under the patronage of the magistrates and town- council, and the salaries of its masters are paid by the burgh. There are three departments in it, — the classical, the commercial, and the English, with salaries of respectively £50, £50, and £40, besides fees. There is alsct an endowed female school, whose mistress receives a salary of £20 from the burgh. In 1845, a bequest of £5,500 was left by William Johnston, Esq., for the immediate erection and endowment of a free school in the town ; £2,000 of it to be expended upon the building, £2,000 in a mortification for a schoolmaster, £1,000 in a mortifi- cation for a schoolmistress, and £500 as a contingent fund. There are also four other schools. The ancient church of Kirkcudbriglit was dedi- cated so early as the 8th century to the celebrated Saint Cuthbert, — a name strangely transmuted, in the appellation of the parish, into '"Cudbright," and still more oddly fused, in popular pronunciation, into " Coobry." The site of the ancient church is commemorated by a cemetery J of a mile north of the burgh, still called St. Cuthbert's churchyard, and used as the burying-place of the town's people. In this cemetery are some interesting ancient sepul- chral monuments. The church was given, in the 12th century, by Uchtred, son of Fergus, lord of Galloway, to the monks of Holyrood, and was a vicarage under them till the Reformation; in 1033, it v/as given to the bishop of Edinburgh ; and when Episcopacy was abolished, it reverted to the Crown. In tiie town, previous to the Reformation, stood a church dedicated to St. Andrew ; the chaplainries, cemetery, and other pertinents of which were con- ferred on the corporation of the burgh at the over- throw of Popery. In the northern extremity of the parish was a chapel called Kilbride, dedicated to St. Bridget. When post-Reformation Episcopacy was forced on Scotland, the people of Kirkcudbright tumultuously rose to prevent the settlement of an E2)iscopalian minister in their churcli. A judicial cominission, appointed by the privy council, made inquiry into their conduct, and adjudged some women, as the ringleaders, to the pillory. " Whethei KIRKCUDBRIGHT. 249 KIRKCUDBRIGHT. the women or the privy council," sardonically re- marks the author of Caledonia, "were, on that occa- sion, the most actuated by zeal, it is not easy to decide."— To the ancient parish of Kirkcudbright, which was small compared to the present one, were annexed, a little after the middle of the 17th cen- tury, the parishes of Dunrod and Galtway. Dunrod forms the southern part of the united parish. See DuxROD. The ancient parish of Galtway forms the middle part of the united parish. The name signifies the bank or ascent on the water. The cemetery, still in use, overlooks one of the streamlets which flow into the estuary of the Dee. A place near it is called, by a pleonasm not uncommon in the Scottish topographical nomenclature, Galtway-bank. See Galtway. — A convent for Franciscans or Grey Friars was founded at Kirkcudbriglit in the reign of Alexander II.; but, in consequence of the ancient records having been carried off at the Keformation, it is very obscurely known to histor3% John Car- penter, one of its cowled inmates, in the reign of David II., was distinguished for his mechanical geiiius; and, by his dexterity in engineering, he so fortified the castle of Dumbarton as to earn from the King an yearly pension of £20 in guerdon of his service. In 1564, the church of the friary was granted by Queen Mar}^ to the magistrates of the town to be used as a parish church ; and when it became unserviceable, it yielded up its site to a suc- cessor for the use of the whole modern united parish. The ground occupied by the convent itself, and the adjacent orchards and gardens, were given, in 1539, to Sir Thomas Maclellan of Bombie. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, a market and post-town, a sea-port, a royal burgh, and the county town of Kirkcudbrightsliire, is pleasantly situated on the left bank of tlic Dee, 6 miles north of the point where that river becomes lost in the sea, 10 miles south-south-west of Castle-Douglas, 21 south by en St of New Galloway, 28 south-west of Dumfries, 33 south-east of Newton-Stewart, 60 east of Port- patrick, and 101 south-south-west of Edinburgh. It is flanked on one side by the river, and on the other by a sweetly picturesque tract of country. Sylvan slopes come down to it from a back ground of gentle heights, or stretch southward in a broad belt of luxuriance till they become identified, at a mile's distance, with the almost isleted peninsula of St. Mary's Isle, sending out an invasion of wood on the bosom of the estuaiy. Seen from a little dis- tance, the town seems gay and almost grand, more resembling a small proud city than an inconsider- able town. In the interior, it is regular, neat, and clean, and contains a larger proportion of recently built houses than almost any other small town in Scotland. Its principal streets run parallel to one another, or at right angles, and present pleasant lines of buildings. So long ago as 1764, it became supplied with excellent spi'ing water by conveyance through leaden pipes ; it did not fail to provide itself, at an early period, with the modem luxury of gaslight; and as to other appliances of convenience and comfort, it has them in a style in keeping with these. An imposing group of buildings in tlie town is the jail and the county hall. The jail was erected in 1816, at the cost of about £4,500. It is of a cas- tellated form, and rises in some parts to the heiglit of 75 feet. The court-room is contiguous to the jail, and is a spacious and elegant hall. The old jail still stands, and is a large and curious edifice, with a conspiciious steeple. The academy is a ca- pacious and elegant structure, with three large class rooms and a library; and has in front a kind of piazza, for the shelter of the scholars in bad weather. The parish church is an elegant building, with a tower and spire of considerable height. Not man}' paces west of the parish church, stands the niinous but venerable form of the castle of Kirkcudbright, built in the year 1582 by 'I'homas Maclellan of Bombie, the ancestor of the Lords Kirkcudbright. It is a strong, massive, Gothic building, lifting its upper work so boldly into view as to give, conjointly with the towers of the jail, distinctiveness and markedness of feature to the burglial landscape ; and, at the time when it was reared, it must have been a splendid, as it is still a spacious edifice. A little west of the town, very near the river, are some mounds surrounded by a deep fosse, the re- mains of a very ancient fortified castle. The tide probably flowed round it in former times, and filled the fosse with water. The castle — now vulgarly called Castledykes, but known in ancient writings as Castlemains — belonged originally to the Lords of Galloway, when they ruled the province as a re- gality separate from Scotland ; and seems to have been built to command the entrance of the harbour. Coming into the possession of John Baliol as suc- cessor to the Lords of Galloway, it Avas, for some time, during the war of 1300, the residence of Ed- ward I. and his Queen and court ; and passing into the hands of the Douglases, on the forfeiture of Edward Baliol, it remained with them till 1455, when their crimes drew down upon them summary castigation, and in that year was visited by James II. when on his march to crush their malign power. Becoming now the property' of the Crown, it ofl'ered, in 1461, a retreat to Henry VI. after his defeat at Towton, and was his place of residence while his Queen Margaret visited the Scottish Queen at Edin- burgh. In 1508, it was the temporary residence of James IV., who, while occupying it, was hospitabl}- entertained by the burgh ; and, next year, by a charter, dated at Edinburgh, it was gifted, along with some attached lands, to the magistrates for the common good of the inhabitants. The town of Kirkcudbright was formerly fortified. At a time when it consisted chiefly of a single street running up from the harbour, it was surrounded by a wall and a deep ditch, the latter filled from the flowing tide; and it had at its two ends, strong gates, which, only about 70 years ago, were pulled down to make way for new houses. An English party who marched against the town in 1547, in the stupid warfare about the marriage treaty between Mary and Edwai'd VI., narrate that as they approached " Kirkobrie, they who saw us coming barred their gates, and kept their dikes, for the town is diked on both sides, with a gate to the waterward, and a gate on the over end to the fellward," — and that, in consequence, English force was repelled liy Scotch precaution. No part of the town wall now exists ; but the fosse is still open in several places. Kirkcudbright has never been the seat of any considerable manufactm'e or tiade. Hector Boece, indeed, describes it as, in his day, " ane rich town, full of merchandise;" but he seems either to have been totally misinformed, or to have, amid the pen- ury of his age, reckoned that "riches" and "mer- chandise " which, in the present stirring era, would be esteemed a bare competency. Dui'ing the dis- turbed period when the Dick Hatteraiks of the con- traband trade infested the coasts of the Solway frith, the inhabitants had such a connection with the desperadoes as comported ill with the prosperity of the town, and exerted a malign influence upon the habits of their posterity at the moment when otlier parts of Scotland 'were starting in the career of mo- dern productive industry. By a strange infatuation, too, the town, when proposed to be the adopted site KIRKCUDBRIGHT. 250 KIRKCUDBRIGHT. »f the first and very promisinp: attempt to introduce the cotton manufacture to Galloway, rejected the Dlfcred advantacre, and sent away the gentlemen who would have done it a service to build their fac- tories at Gatehonse-of-Fleet. Hardly were the erec- tions on the Fleet completed, when Kirkcudbright saw its error, and made a hasty attempt to retrieve it. Mules and jennies were erected, weavers were brought from a distance, and a woollen manufactory was commenced. But the attempt, though A'igorously made, and long maintained, proved an utter failure. There have also, at various times, and with a va- rietv of promise, been manufactures of gloves, of boots and shoes, of leather, of soap and candles, of malt liquors and of snufF; but all these likewise li!ive proved failures. The commerce of Kirkcudbright is not much bet- ter than its manufactures. ( jnly 20 sailing vessels belong to it, and they have an aggregate tonnage of only 1,144. Steam co-nninnication, however, is maintnined regularly with Whitehaven, Liverpool, and Glasgow. Considerable quantities of oats, bar- ley, and potatoes are exported to the Clyde, but chiefly to England. The merchants are obliged to make coal and lime their principal import; yet they occasionally send a small vessel across the Atlantic, principally for timber, and bring wine and othei- lu.xuries from England. The hnrhonr rinks merely as a creek of the port of Dumfries; and the dues levied at it in the year 1852 amounted to £.340. In point of accessibility, spaciousness, and shelter, it is much the best harbour on the south coast of Scot- land ; though, owing to the almost complete recession of the peculiar tide of the Solway, it is fully suitable for such vessels only as can take the ground. It is naturally safe, has good anchorage, affords shelter from all winds, and extends from the mouth of the river to the town, about 6 miles. An islet, called the Little Ross, lies across its entrance, allowing a chan- nel on the east \h mile wide, safe and bold on both sides, and having behind it a roadstead with 16 feet at low water, and 40 feet at high water, where ves- sels may ride at safety in gales from any point round three-fourths of the compass. Above Little Eoss are Balmangan bav, a considerable inlet on the west, and Manxman's lake, a large bay running up the cast side of St. ilary's Isle. Off the Isle a bar runs so far across the channel as to impose on vessels the choice of sailing over, in about 20 feet water, at or- dinary spring tides, or steering along a narrow waterway close ir with the rocks. On the shore at the town is a fine shelving beach, offering to vessels the alternative of lying dry on its sands, or of riding at anchor in the channel, with a depth of water S feet in the ebb and 28 in the flood. Here also is a dock, one side of which is of wood, and two sides of stone. The rise of the tide being 20 feet, vessels of 200 tons have facility for sailing 2 miles beyond the town to Tongueland, where a natural bar'-ier termi- nates the navigation. Most of the importance of Kirkcudbi'ight arises • from its being the adopted home of a considerable number of small capitalists, and the county town of Kircudbrightshire. A weekly market is held in it on Friday, but is not well attended. Siime ancient fairs are within its privileges, but have fallen into desuetude. Hiring fairs are held on the last Friday of March, on the Friday before Castle-Douglas mid- summer fair, and on the last Friday of September. The town has offices of the Bank of Scotland and the National Bank, fourteen insurance agencies, a public reading-room, a law libi'ary, a literary insti- tute, with reading-room and library, and a number of charitable and religious institutions. The prin- cipal inns are the King's Arms, tlie Selkirk Arms, the Commercial, and the Royal. Communication is maintained across the river by means of a large, flat-bottomed, chain ferry-boat. ^Two public coaches run daily to Dumfries; and the Portpatrick mail coach passes within 4 miles of Kirkcudbright. A branch line was contemplated to this town from the original project of tlie Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle railway. Kirkcudbright was anciently a burgh-of-regality, and held of the Douglases, lords of Galloway, as superiors. It was erected into a royal burgh, in 1455, by charter from James 11. ; and. in 1633, it received another charter from Charles I. The town is go- verned by a provost, 2 bailies, a treasurer, and 13 ordinary councillors. The cor]ioration revenue amounted in 1832-3, to £936 9s. lOd.; in 18G0-61, to £1,175 odds. 'J"he whole of this revenue, except about £26, is derived from burgh property. The expenditure in the year 1832-3 amounted "to £864 14s. 4d.: and the debt then due by the burgh was £4,343 2s. The incorporated trades are the ham- mermen, the shoemakers, the squaremen, the tailors, the weavers, and the clothiers. Steward-courts and the commissary court are held in the town on Thurs- days and Fridays. Steward small debt courts are held on every second Friday during session ; and iustice of peace small debt courts on the second Tuesday of every month. The quarter sessions are held on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August, and on the last Tuesday of October. Kirkcudbright unites with Dumfries, Annan, Loohmaben, and San- quhar, in sending a member to parliament. Con- stituency in 1832, 111 ; in 1862. 116. Population of the royal burgh in 1831, 2,690; in 1861. 2.638. Houses, 431. Population of tlie parliamentary burgh in 1861. 2,552. Houses. 416. Kirkcudbright gave the title of Baron, in the Scottish peerage, to the family of Maclellan of Bombie. This family, once very powerful, the pro- prietors of several castles, and wielding not a little influence in Galloway, has already been incidentally noticed. Sir Patrick Maclellan, proprietor of the barony of Bombie, in the parish of Kirkcudbriglit, incurred forfeiture in consequence of marauding depredations on the lands of the Douglases, lords of Galloway. Sir William, his son — incited by a pro- clamation of James II. ofiering the forfeited baiony to any person who should disperse a band of gypsies who infested the country, and capture the body of their leader, dead or alive, in evidence of success — rushed boldly in search of the proscribed marauders, and earned back his patrimony, by carrying to the King the head of their captain on the point of his sword. To commemorate the manner in which he regained the barony, he adopted as his crest an erect right arm, the hand grasping a dagger, on the point of which was a Moor's head couped, proper; with the motto, ' Think on,' — intimating the steadi- ness of purpose with which he contemplated his en- terprise. Sir Robert, the fourth in descent from Sir William, acted as gentleman of the bedchamber to James VI. and Charles I. ; and, in 1633, was created by the latter a baron, with the title of liOrd Kirk- cudbright. John, the third Lord, commenced public life by a course of fierce opposition to Cromwell and the Independents ; and being, at the time, the pro- prietor of greater part of the parish, he compelled his vassals to take arms in the cause of the King, brought desolation upon the villages of Dunrod and Galtway bj' draining off nearly all their male in- habitants, and incurred such enormous expenses as nearly ruined his estates. But at the Restoration, just when any royalist but himself thought everj'- thing gained, and ran to the King in hope of com- pensation and honours, he shied suddenly round. KIRKCUDBRIGHT. 251 KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. opposed the royal government, sanctioned tlie riot, slightly mentioned in our parochial notice, for pre- venting the induction of an Episcopalian minister. — ind, at the time when the women were sent to the pillory, was captured, along with some other influ- ential persons, sent a prisoner to Edinhurgh, and driven to utter ruin. His successors never after- wards regained so much as an acre of their patri- monial property ; and, for a considerable period, were conceded their baronial title only by courtesy. One of them was the ' Lord Kilcouhrie,' whom Goldsmith, in his sneers at the poverty of the Scot- tish nobility, mentions as keeping a glove-shop in Edinburgh. In the reign of George HI. they were at last formally and legally re-instated in their hon- ours ; but, in 18.32, at the death of the ninth Lord, the title — alternately a coronet and a football, now glittering on the head, and now tossed in tlie mire by the foot of every wayfarer — sank quietlv into extinction. — Among eminent men whom the town or parish of Kirkcudbright has boasted, as natives or residents, mav be mentioned John Welsh, son- in-law of John Kno.K, and minister of the parish,— John Maclellan, tlie aitthor of a Latin description of Galloway, of some celebrity in the 17tli century, — • Dr. Thomas Blacklock, a blind man, an elegant writer, and minister of the parish, — William Lord Daer, a great agricultural improver of Kirkcud- brightshire, — Thomas, Earl of Selkirk, a distin- guished author and politician, who died in 1820, — and James Wedderburn, Esq., solicitor-general of Scotland, who died in 1822. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, Dumfries-shire. See Glex- CAIRX. KIRKCUDBRIGHT-INNERTIG. See Ixxer- TIG. KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE, prescriptively called a stewartry, Imt in every practical point of view, a sheriffdom, shire, or county, in the western part of the southern border of Scotland, constituting the sastern portion, and very nearly two-thirds of the whole extent, of the province of Galloway. It is bounded on the north-west and north by Avrshire ; 9n the north-east and east by Dnmfries-shire ; on the south by the Sol way frith and the Irish sea; and on the west by Wigtonshire. Its outline is irregular, but approaches the figure of a trapezoid. It lies be- tween 54° 44' 35" and 55" 19' north latitude, and between 3° 33' and 4" 35' longitude west from Green- wich. It measures in extreme length, from north- west to south-east, 44 miles ; in extreme breadth 31 miles; in minimum breadth 21 miles; and in superfi- cial area, according to the Ordnance Siiivev, 610,343 acres, — of win'ch 574,588 are land, 7,679 are water, 715 are inks, similar to what are elsewhere called links, and 27,361 are foreshore. The t"-o best previous measurements gave respectivelv 547.21 10 statute acres, and 449,3 13 Scottish acres. Its southern half has. as natural boundaries, the river and estuarv of the Nith on the east, the sea and the Solway frith on the south, and the river Cree and Wigton bav on the west; but the northern half is traced by natural boundaries only partially and at intervals, — by the Cairn for 7j miles above its confluence with the Nith, — by a water-shedding line of mountain sum- mits for il§ miles south-eastward of its north-east .angle, and, with trivial exceptions, 15 or 16 miles sinuously westward of that angle. — by Loch-Doon and its tributary Gala-lane for 8J miles on the north-west, — and by the river Cree, from the north- west extremity southward to the southern division of the county. Kirkcudbrightshire has no recognised or nominal subdivisions, except that the four most northerly oarishes are called Gleukens; but it admits, or rather exhibits, a very marked natural subdivision into a highland district and a champaign countrv thickly undulated with hills. A straight line drawn from about the centre of Irongray parish to Gate-house- of-Fleet, or to the middle of Anwoth parish, iia«, with some exceptions, the former of these districts on thenortli-west, and the latter on the south-east. The highland or north-west district comprehends about two-thirds of the whole area, and is, for the most part, mountainous. Blacklarg, at the point where the stewartry meets with Dumfrics-shire, has a height of 2,89U"feet above sea-level; and it is nearly equalled in altitude by numerous other sum- mits. The heights, all along the boundary, and for some way into the interior on the north, are part of what is often termed the southern highlands, or the broad alpine belt which stretches across the middle of the Scottish lowlands; they ascend, in the aggregate, to elevations little inferior to those of any other part of that great belt ; and extending themselves down to the sea on the west, and parallel to Dumfries-shire on the east, they form, in their highest summit.^, a vast semicircle, whence broad and lessening spurs run oft" into the interior. The glens and straths among these mountains, even when reckoned down to the points where their draining streams accumulate into rivers, form an inconsiderable proportion, probably not one-tenth of the whole district. — The other district, the south- eastern one, when viewed from the northern moun- tains, appears like a great plain, diversified only by a variety of shades, according to the colour, size, or distance of the heights upon its surface. So gentle, too, is its cumulative ascent from the sea, that the Dee, at the point of entering it, or even a long way up the strath, on the highland side of the dividing line, is only 150 feet above the level of the sea. Yet about one-fourth of its whole area is either roughly hilly, or, in a secondary sense, mountain- ous ; while much the greater proportion of the other three- fourths, though fully under cultivation, is a rolling, broken, hilly surface, and, for the most part, continues its bold undulations down to the very shore. On the south-east the conspicuous Crirt'el lises up almost from the margin of the Xith to a height of 1,895 feet above sea-level, and sends oft' a ridge 8 or 9 miles westward in the direction of Dal- beattie, and a second low ridge away south-west- ward parallel with the coast to the vicinity of Kirk- cudbright. These heights are far from being incon- siderable ; and lifting their craggy cliffs and dark summits immediately above the margin of the sea, they form scenery highly picturesque and occasion- ally grand.- — Over all parts of the county the uplands are, lor the most part, broken by abrupt protuber- ances, steep banks, and rocky knolls, diversified into every possible variety of shape ; and even in the multitudinous instances in which they admit of tillage, either on their lower slopes or over all their sides and their summit, they rarely present a smooth and uniform arable surface. In the neighbourhood of Dumfries, throughout most of Terregles and part of Troqueer and Iron- gray, where, apart from artificial division, the terri- tory forms a portion of the beautiful strath of Niths- dale, stretches a smooth level tract, carpeted with a mixture of sand and loam, and possessing fiicilities of cultivation beyond any other part of the countv. Along the banks of the Nith, from Maxwelltown downward, and for some distance lying between the former tract and the river, extends a belt of merse land, at first narrow and interspersed with 'flows,' but broader in Newabbey and Kirkbean, and com- prehending about 6,000 acres either of carse or of a rich loam, partly on a gravelly bottom, and partly KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. 252 KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. on a bottom of limestone. From Terregles, soutli- westward to tlie Dee, extends a bro;id tnict, com- prisinsT Lochriitton, Kirkguiizeon, and Urr, and part of Kirkpatrick-Durliani, Crossniicliael, Kelton, Buittlc, and llerwick, wliieli, wliile liilly, lias com- paratively an unbroken suiface, carpeted with a Btroncr soil, tliouc;li often upon a retentive subsoil, and peculiarly adapted for tillage. Tlie broken por- tions of this tract, and the general area of tlie otiier parts of tiie comparatively champaign district, arc subject to exceedingly less waste than a stranger to their peculiarities, who should glance at tlieir ap- pearance, would imagine. Tlie knolls conceal, bv the perspective of tlieir summits, consideralile flat intervals amongst them; and while themselves seeming, from the brushwood wbicb crowns them, to be unfit for cultivation, are usiiallv covered with a very kindly soil, of sufficient depth for the plough. Of an extremely broken field, not more than one- half of which would seem to a stranger available for tillage, the proportion really and easily arable often amounts to four-fifths. Except in loamv sand and the merse tracts near Dumfries, the soil of nearly all the ploughed ground of the stewartry, comprehend- ing not only the great south-eastern division, but the fine strath of the Ken and tlie narrower vale of the Cree. is dry loam of a hazel colour, and there- fore locally called hazelly loam, but often degenerat- ing, more or less, into gravel. The bed of schist on which it lies is frequently so near the surface as to form a path to the plough, and probaldv where the rock is soft, adds by its "attrition to tlie depth of the soil. lu the highland division rich meadows, luxu- riant pastures, and arable lands of considerable ag- gregate extent, occur along the banks of the rivers, on the sloping sides of the hills, in vales among the mountains, and along the margins of little streams. A large part of the Glenkens, too, exhibits highland scenery in such green garb as characteristically dis- tinguishes Tweeddale. Eut with these exceptions, the far-stretching higliland district is in general carpeted with heath and ' flows.' a weary and almost desolate waste, a thin stratum of mossv soil yieldinsr. amidst the prevailing heath, such poor grass that tlie sheepwhich feed upon it, and are strongly at- tached to it, would, were there not intervening pieces of luxuriant venhire, soon perish by emaciation. With large bases, lofty summits, and small intervals of valley, the mountains exhibit aspects of bleakness diversified by picturesqueness and romance; and, sometimes sending down shelving precipices from near their tops, they are inaccessible to the most adventurous quadruped, and offer their beetling cliffs for an eyry to the eagle; while far below, among the fragments of fallen rocks, the fox finds a retreat whence he cannot be unkenneled by the huntsman's dogs. Kirkcudbrightshire sends out a few very trivial head- waters of the Ayrshire rivers, and "receives some equally unimportant contributions in retnm ; but, with these exceptions, it is a continuation of the great ba.sin of Dumfries-shire, and, as far as the joint-evidence of the disposal of its waters and tlie configuration of its great mountain-chain could decide, it was naturally adjudged to the phxce which it long legally held as a component part of tliat beautiful county. What Eskdale is to Dumfries- shire on the east, Kirkcudbrightshire, in the sweep of its mountain-chain to near die coast beyond the Dee, is on the west; and all the vast intervening territory is a semicircular area, with an arc of higli- land ridges sweeping round it from one end till nearly tlie other of the north side of its chord, and pouring down all its waters to the south. The stewartry, unlike Dumfries-siiire, has no expanded plain for concentrating its streams before giving them to the sea, and, in consequence, discharges mucli of the drainings of its surface, in inconsidei-able volumes of water. Apart from tlie Nith, the Cairn, and the Cree, whicli belong only to its boundaries, its chief streams are the Urr, the Ken, the Dec, and the Fleet. Lakes are veiy numerous; and some of them are remarkable for either the rare species or the great numerousness of their fish ; but, except- ing i)oon on the boundary, and Ken and Ivinder in the interior, they are individually inconsiderable both in size and in interest. I'erennial springs every where well up in great abundance, and afford an ample supply of excellent water. Of chalybeate springs, which also are numerous, the most cele- brated is that of Lochenbraek, in the parish of Balniaghie. The i^olway frith, becoming idcntificil on the west witli tlie Irish sea, sweejis round, from the head of the estuary of the Kith to the head of Wigton bay, in an ample semicircular coast-line of 50 miles, exclusive of sinuosities. The coast, on the east, is flat; but elsewhere it is, in general, bold, rock)', here pierced with caves, and there lined witli clifi's. Along the whole of it, a permanent lecession of the sea has taken place, — not very aji- parent or productive of any great advantage, in- deed, in the high and rocky regions, but very evi- dent and resulting in a bequest of the rich teiritoiy of the Merse, in the flat tract along the Nitli. Be- sides the estuary on the east, and the gulf or large bay on the west, the Solway forms, at points where it receives streams, very considerable natural liar- liours, running up into the country in the form of bays or small estuaries. The principal are Hough frith, at the mouth of the Urr, ileston bay, and Auchencairn bay, at the mouth of rivulets a little eastward, Kirkcudbright bay, at the mouth of the Dee, and Fleet bay, at the mouth of the Fleet. Though all the waters which wash the coast are rich in the finny tribes, they rarely tempt the inhabitants of the coast to spread the net or east the line, and have not prompted the erection of a single fishing village, or the formation of any community of jn-ofcssed fishermen. Sea-shells and shelly sand, which are thrown up in great profusion, have greatly contri- buted to fertilize the adjacent grounds; and they are accompanied, for lands to which it is more suit- able, by large supplies of sea-weed. The most prevalent rocks of the stewartry arc those of the transition series of Werner, comprising greywacke and slates. The strata are mixed, vari- ous, and dis.similar. Some of them, locally called whinstone, are of hard and compact grain, blue or greyish lii-own in colour, for the most part taking an irregular fracture, but frequently splitting into parallel slices fit to be used as coarse slates. Tiie beds vary from half-an-inch to many feet in thick- ness. With the harder grain is mixed, in all dif- ferent proportions, a soft, shivering, argillaceous stone, which easily yields to the weather, and locally bears the name of slate-band. The strata are, in general, not far from being perpendicular, though they lie at eveiy dip from an absolutely vertical to a nearly horizontal position ; and they are often singularly contorted, and are sometimes intersected with veins or dykes of porphyry. Much of the mountainous part consists entirely of granite. In vai'ious spots along the shores of Colvend and Eer- wick, a softer species of granite occurs, and is quarried into millstones. Limestone, sandstone, and other secondary strata, occasionally intermixed with plumpudding-stone, appear eastward of Kirk- cudlirigbt, but do not extend far into the country. The district in the neighbourhood of I )unifiies lies KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. 253 KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE, on sandstone. In Kirkbean limestone of excellent quality abounds ; and in otbcr districts it occurs, but so poor, or in such small quantity, as not to draw attention. From the rocky nature of the stewartry, abundance of suitable material is ever}'- wliere found for buildings and fences. Coal has buen sought in laborious and expensive searclies ; but has promised to rewai'd exertion onh' in Kirk- bean, and even there has been found in too great paucity to pay the costs of mining. Shell-marl of the finest quality has been everywhere found at intervals, in lakes and mosses, vrithin 12 miles of the sea. The richest supply of it has been furnished by Carlinwork loch. Ironstone seems to abound in Kells, Urr, Carsphairn, Buittle, Kerwick, Colvend, and other parislies; but owing to the want of skill, of enterprise, of fuel, or of all three iniited, it has lieen turned to little account. A copper mine was worked for some time in Colvend, but seemingly without sufficient reason, was abandoned. A stra- tum of lead ore seems to ran through the county from MinnigafFon the Cree, in a north-cast direction, to Wanlockhead and Leadhills, on the boundary between tlie counties of Dumfries and Lanark. A vein of lead, of a rich ore, exists also in the parish of Anwoth. In early times, the stewartry appears to have been covered with woods; and at a comparatively recent period it had several extensive forests; but it retains only scanty portions of its natural wood- lands, and these chiefly along the banks of the rivers. Agricultural improvement was commenced in the r2th century, principally by the settlement among the rude inhabitants of colonies of monks, and was carried to a greater extent both in tillage and pasturage, than could well have been expected in the rough circumstances of the period. From various and very unequivocal intimations, the country appears to have been much more fraitful in grain and other agricultural produce in 1300, than at the beginning of the 18th centur}'. But disas- trous wars and desolating feuds swept in rapid suc- cession over cultivated fields, and soon reduced them almost to a wilderness. So ruthlessly was agricul- ture thrown prostrate that, toward the close of the 17tli century, small tenants and cottagers, who had neither skill, inclination, nor means to improve the soil, were allowed to wring from it, in the paltry produce of rye and here and oats, any latent ener- gies of "heart" which it still possessed, and on the miserable condition of paying the public burdens, were permitted to sit rent-free on farms which now let for at least £200 a-year. Modern improvement commenced early in tlie 18th century, and was not a little i-emarkable both in the character and in the early history of its first measure. Sir Thomas Gor- don of Earlston havinpi erected upon his property a stone fence about 4 miles in extent, several other proprietors sparingly, but firmly, followed his ex- ample. But fences seemed to the semi-savage squatters to whom utter mal-administration had given almost entire possession of the soil, not less an innovation upon their rights, than a signal of war; and, in April and May 1724, they provoked an insurrection, and were all thrown down by the ■' levellers." The insurgents having been dispersed by six troops of dragoons, the work of enclosing was resumed with greater vigour than at first, and speedily resulted in diffusing a skilful care for the right management of the soil. The discovery, or at least the nianurial application, of shell-marl in 1740, formed an important era, and occasioned the con- version into tillage of large tracts which had been employed exclusively in pasture. The suppression, ill 1765, of the contraband trade with the Isle of Man pointed the way to the exportation of agri- cultural produce, and occasioned it rapidly to be- come a considerable trade. The institution, in 177(3, of the society for the encouragement of agri- culture in Galloway and Dumfries-shire was a still more important event. William Craik, Esq. of Ar- bigland, the chairman of the society, introduced new rotations of crops, new methods of cultivation, new machinery, and new modes of treating cattle, and is justly considered as the father of all the grand agricultural improvements of the stewartry. At the commencement of the present century, Colonel M'Dowal of Logan made great achieve- ments in the reclaiming of mosses. In 1809, the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright Agricultural society arose to urge forward a livalry with Dumfries-shire and other adjacent counties; and betbre being a twelvemonth old, it numbered 130 members, all landholders and practical farmers, with the lord- lieutenant and the member of parliament at their head. Both before the close of last centuiy and during the course of the present, plantations, especially on tlie grounds of Lord Daer and the Earl of Selkirk, have risen up to shelter and beautify the country; but, even with the aid of about 3,500 acres of copse- wood, remaining from the ancient forests, they are far fiom being sufiicient in extent or dispersion to shield the country from imputations of nakedness of aspect, or prevent it from appearing to a stranger characteristically wild and bieak. The fences, in far the greater proportion of instances, are the dry stone walls, distinctively known as Galloway dykes; but, in the vicinity of Dumfries, and a few other localities, they consist of various sorts of hedges, all ornamental in the featuring they give the landscape. Agricultural implements are simply the approved ones known in other well-cultivated counties. Systems of cropping are necessarily various, not only throughout the stewartry but very often in the same parish. In the statistics of agriculture, ob- tained in 1854. for the Board of Trade, liy the High- land and Agricultural Society of Scotland, 1,895^ imperial acres were retxirned as under wheat, 1,848^ under barley, 32.147 under oats, 22^ under rye, 37^ under here, 467f under beans, 8J under pease, 73^ under vetches, 13,502|^ under turnips, 3,349 under potatoes, 54|r under mangel-wurzel. 45J under car- rots, 4| under cabbages, 2| under flax, 29j under turin'p- seed, and 361| in bare fallow. The esti- mated gross produce was 49,270 bushels of wheat, 60,068 bushels of barlev. 1,068,887 bushels of oats, 946 bushels of here, 14,149 bushels of beans, 212,660 tons of turnips, and 8,372 tons of potatoes. The estimated average produce per impciial acre was 26 bushels of wheat, 32A bushels of barley, 33J bushels of oats, 25:^ bushels of here, 30J bushels of beans, ] 5f tons of turnips, and 2 J tons of potatoes. The number of acres not in tillage comprised 70,278f under grass in the rotation of the farm, 65,660 in permanent pasture, 8,338f in irrigated meadows, 289,234f in sheep walks, 10,331 underwood, 12,562J in a state of waste, and 4,663 in house-steads, roads, fences, &c. The numbers of live stock comprised 5,829 horses, 9,028 milch cows, 6,794 calves, 21,079 other bovine cattle, 172,376 ewes, gimmers, and ewe hogs, 71,167 tups, wethers, and wether hogs, and 9,351 swir.e. The breeding and rearing of cattle has long been a favourite object of the farmers. Few countries can boast of pastures whose grass has such a beautiful closeness of pile, and which, after a scourging course of crops, so rapidly return to their natural verdure and feitility. The breed of Galloway cattle — peculiar to the district, though now extensively known by KIRKCUDBiaGHTSIIIKE. 2.14 KIRKCUDBKIGPITSHIKE. importations from it — ;irc almost imivcrsallj' pollcil, and rather under than over the medium size. — Biualler than the horned breed of Lancashire or the midland eounties, and considerably larger tliau any of the llig-hland breeds. Their prevailing colour is black or durk-brindled. 'I'he breed has, in some parts of the country, been materially injured Ijy in- termi.\ture with the Irish, the Ayrshiie, and some English breeds. But the ofF-shoots of foreign crossings or admixtures are recognizable among tiie native stock even after fifty or sixty years have elapsed to efiace their peculiarities; and they are now jield in little estimation, and sought to be sub- stituted by the purest and choicest propagation of the native variety. Few of the cattle are fed for home consumption. Excepting fat cows, for the small towns and villages, and about one-fortieth of tl;e prime cattle for the tables of the opulent, the whole stock are sent chiefly, at o and '^k years old, to the markets of Dumfries and England. The prin- cipal sales are at tit. Faiths and other markets in Norfolk; but many arc effected on the spot, and many more in tiie cattle-market of London. Vast numbers of transfers, too — chiefly from inferior or better lands — are made at the weekly or monthly trysts of Castle- Douglas and Gatehouse in Kirkcud- brightshire, and Glenluce, Stranraer, and Whithorn in Wigtonshire. In the moor and mountainous dis- tricts, sheep-husbandry has long been sedulously plied; but, in other districts, it meets very trivial attention. Long-wooUed Lincolnshire sheep — here called mugs — were tried and failed. The Leicester- shire merinos, the Herefords, and the Shetlands were also introduced, but secured little favour. The Southdown, the Cheviot, the Morf, and the Mendip breeds, have had more success, and, jointly with varieties previously in the district, tenant the sheep-walks in singular motleyness of character. Smearing or salving is practised. Great attention here, as in Dumfries-shire, is paid to the produce of pork, — chiefly for the Dumfries market, and, through it, for supplying the demands of England. Bees are much attended to in Twynhohn, Borgue, Tongueland, and Kirkcudbright, and there produce honey equal, if not superior, to any in the world. Few districts in Scotland, except the Highlands, are more abundant than Kirkcudbright.shire, both in number and variety of game. The valued rent of Kirkcudbrightshire in 1674 was £11 4, .597 Scots. The annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was £213,308; in 1849, £192,474. The rental in 1855, as ascertained under the new valuation act, exclusive of the burghs of Kirkcudbright, New Galloway, and Max- welltown, was £214,088 10s. 7d. The" number of landowners in 1854 was 413; of whom 180 had a valuation not exceeding £50 Scots, 66 others not exceeding £100, 65 not exceeding £200, 55 not ex- ceeding £500, 26 not exceeding £1,000, 14 not ex- ceeding £2,000, 3 not exceeding £5,000, 3 not ex- ceeding £10,000, and 1 upwards of £1 0,000. Farms, in the highland district, usually vary in size from 6 to 12 square miles; and, in the arable tracts of the lower district, they sometimes extend to 500 or 600 acres, but probably average about 200. In 1855, not more than 198 holdings, comprising an aggregate of 738 acres of arable land, were rented each at less than £10. The ordinary currency of leases is 19 years. The average of the fiar prices from 1848 to 1854, both inclusive, was wheat, 49s. S^^d.; barley, 27s. 54d.; potato oats, 19s. lOd.; common oats, 16s. 6Jd. ; beans, 48s. 6d. ; and oatmeal, 14s. ^-^d. The manufactures and commerce of the stewartry are very inconsiderable. Soap, leather, and paper •fire manufactured to a small amount. The woollen manufacturr, though seriously attemjited, never h.id success. The cotton manufacture has been tried in most of the towns and villages; but, with raie exceptions, it has either died out, or wears an ema- ciated appearance. Other manufactures are too unimportant to cliallenge separate notice. Com- merce is almost wholly confined to the ex])ortation of grain, wool, sheep, and black cattle, and the im- portation of coals, lime, wood, groceries, and soft goods. The harbours of the district, as compareil to what they were a century ago, exhibit marvel- lously little of the progress which elsewhere gener- ally characterizes Scotland. Those situated to the west of Kirkandrew-burn are creeks of the port of Wigton ; those situated to the east of that burn are creeks of the port of Dumfries ; and the whole yielded a revenue of dues on ships or on goods carried in shijis, in the year 1852, of only £413. Kirkcudbrightsliire, considering the highland com- plexion of the greater part of its surface, is not be- hind any part of Scotland in the important accom- modation of roads. Within the parish of KelU are vestiges of an ancient road. Lithgow the trav- eller praises, in 1628, "the roadway inns," and, at the same time, makes no cwnplaint of the roads, — seeming to imply, by his silence, that they were not bad. in 1764, a great military road was constructed from Carlisle to Portpatrick, and, of course, traverses the stewartry. Since then, nuich attention has been paid to roads of all sorts, from the main-line to the ramification of the parisli-road leading up to a single farm, as a grand ancillary of agricultural improvement. In consequence of the acts of 1780 and 1797, which converted statute labour into money payment, and then doubled the assessment and au- thorized tolls, the roads of the stewartrj', both in their structure and as to their extent, have been gieatly improved. During the heat of the railway sj)eculation, two projects were concocted, but soon abandoned, for railways in Kirkcudbrightshire, the one for a line through it to be called the British and liish Union railway, and the other for a line thence at a point near Castle-Douglas, north-westward to- ward Ayr; and more recently, a project near akin to tiie former of these has been carried into complete execution. 'J'he royal burghs in Kirkcudbrightshire are Kiik- cudbiight and New Galloway. The burghs of bar- ony ai-c Maxwelltown, Castle-Douglas, Gatehouse, and Creetown. 'J"he villages and principal hanjiets aie Shawhead, Newbridge, Terregles, Newabbey, Drumbarn, Carsethorn, Kirkbean, Prestonmill, Scaur, Mainsriddle, Gateside, Kirkgunzeon, Lochfoot, Dalbeattie, Haidgate, Haugh, Springholm, Crocket- ford, Kirkpatrick-Durham, Falnachie, Auchencaiin, Dundrennan, Gelston. Khonehouse, Crossmichael, Clarebraiid, Parton, Corsock, Balmaclellan, Dairy, Carsephaini, Dee-Bridge, Laurieston, Tongueland, llingford. Twynholni, Borgue, Chapelton, Kirkan- drews, Blackcraig, Creebridge, and MinnigafF. Among the principal seats are Cumloden, the Earl of Galloway; St. Mary's Isle, the Earl of Selkirk; Earl- ston, Major Sir William Gordon, Bart. , Cassencarie, Sir Alex. Muir Mackenzie, Bart.; Netlieilaw, Sir G. S. Abercromby,Bart. ; MoUance-house, John Hall, Esq.; iiusko, Kobert Ilannay, Esq.; Woodhall, W. K. Lawrie, Esq.; Ardwall-house, James M. Macculloch, Esq.; Bargally-house. James Mackie, Esq.; Tene- gles-house, M. C. Maxwell, Esq.; Cardonness, Sir W. Maxwell, Bart.; Cairnsnmii-house, James Stewart, Esq.; Shambelly-house, William Stewart, Esq.; and Southwick, M. S. Stewart, Esq. Kirkcudbrightshire sends one member to parlia- ment. The parliamentary constituency in 1855 was 1 ,277. The several courts for the whole stewarii-y are KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. 255 KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE. held at the times which we have noted in our article on the town of Kirkcudbright. The stewartry circuit Binall debt courts are held at New Galloway on the 4th of Marcli, the 3d of June, and the 23d of Sep- tember ; at Creetown, on the 8th of March, the 7th of June, and the 27th of September; at Castle- Douglas, on the Sth of January, the 8tli of April, the 8th of July, and tiie 30th of September; and at Maxwelltown, on the 9tli of January, the 9tii of April, the 9th of July, and the ] st of October. Jus- tice of peace small debt courts are held at Kirkcud- bright on the second Tuesday of every month ; at Castle- Douglas, on the first Monday of every month ; at New Galloway, on the second Monday of every month ; at Maxwelltown, on the first Thursday of every month; at Gatehouse, on the first Saturday of every month ; and at Creebridge, on the first Sat- urday of every alternate month. The number of committals for crime, in the year, wi thin the stewartry, was 36 in the average of 1836-1840, 24 in the aver- age of 1841-1845, and 23, 29, and 35 in the aver- ages of 1846-50, 1851-55, and 1856-60. 'I'he sums piiid for expenses of criminal prosecutions in the years 1846-1852, ranged from £820 to £1,265. The total number of persons confined in the jail at Kirk- cudbright, within the year ending 30th June, 1860, was 200; the average duration of the confinement of eacli was4days; and the net cost of their confinement per head, after deducting earnings, was £24 Os. 3d. Twenty-four parishes are assessed, and four unas- sessed, for the poor, The number of registered poor in the year 1852-3, was 1,593; in the year 1860-1, 1,435. The number of casual poor in 1852-3 was 695; in 1860-1, 1,373. The sum expended on the registered poor in 1852-3, was £8,436; in 1860-1. £9,396. The sum expended on the casual poor in 1852-3, was£452; in 186U-1, £502. There is a combination poor-liouse for 22 of the parishes of the stewartiy, containing accommodation for 250 persons; and the number of its inmates on the 1st of July, 1851, was 21, and on the first of July, 1861, it was 32. The assessment for prisons, rogue-money, and other stewartry rates, is 2d. per £1 sterling. Population of the stewartry in 1801, 29,211; in 1811,33,684; in 1821, 38,903; in 1831, 40,501; in 1841,41,119; in 1861, 42,495. MUes in 1861, 19.789; females, 22,706. Inhabited houses in 18G1, 7,326; uninhabited, 233; building, 66. The part of Kirkcudbrightshire west of the Urr belonged anciently to the bishopric of Galloway, and composed the deanery of Desnes; and the district east of that river belonged to the bishopric of Glas- gow, and was comprehended in the deanery of the Nith. A similar ecclesiastical division — simply substituting synods and presbyteries for bishoprics and deaneries — continues to exist. The district west of the Urr belongs to the synod of Galloway, and is distributed into 18 parishes. 16 of which con- stitute the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, while two are included in that of Wigton; and the district east of the Urr, distributed into 10 paiishes, belongs to the synod and the presbytery of Dumfries. In 1851, the number of places of worship within Kirkcud- biightshire was 62; of which 30 belonged to the Established church, 17 to the Free church, 7 to the United Presbyterian diurch, 2 to the Keformed Presbyterian church, 1 to the Episcopalians, 3 to the Roman Catholics, and 2 to isolated congregations. The number of sittings in 21 of the Established places of worship was 11,939; in 16 of the Free church places of worship, 7,502; in the 7 United Presbyterian meeting-houses, 2,410; in the two Ke- formed Presbyterian meeting-houses, 1,039; in the thiee Koman Catholic chapels, 640; and in the meet- ing houses of the two isolated congregations, 450. 'I'lie maximum attendance on the Census Sabbath at 22 of the Established places of worship was 5,586; at 16 of the Free church places of worship, 3,980; at the 7 United Presbyterian places of worship, 600; atoneof the Keformed Presbyterian places of worship, 639; at the 3 Roman Catholic chapels, 474; and at the meeting-houses of the 2 isolated congregations, 301. There were in 1851, in Kirkcudbrightshire, 83 pub- lic day-schools, attended by 3,544 males and 2,443 females, — 24 private day-schools, attended bj^ 237 males and 345 females, — 3 evening schools for adults, attended by 62 males and 12 females, — and 57 Sabbath schools, attended bv 1,857 males and 1,848 females. During the Roman period in Britain, Kirkcud- brightshire was occupied, along with other extensive territories, by two British tribes, — the Selgovag, east of the Dee, and the Novantes, west of that stream. British strengths line the whole frontier of the two tribes along Ijotli sides of the Dee, and occur in con- siderable numbers both eastward and westward in the interior, interspei'sed with the sites of Roman garrisons, placed to overawe a people who could not he easily subdued. Caves, subterraneous excava- tions, and other remarkable hiding-places, resorted to by the inhabitants in barbarous times, perforate the cliffs on the rocky coast, and occur in various inland localities. The most notable is one in the pai-ish of Buittle. Druidical temples, or circles of upright stones, occur in sections, or entire, in the parishes of Kiikbean, Colvend, Kirkgunzeon, Loch- rutton, Parton, Kelton, Rerwick, Kirkmabreck, and Minnigaff. A remarkable rocking-stone exists in Kells. Cairns and tumuli abound, and, in numerous instances, have yielded up to research some curious antiquities. Picts' kilns and murder-holes — the former of which abound in Minnigaft" and Kirkma- breck- — seem to be peculiar to Galloway; and if so, are comparatively modern works rather than strictly ancient. A Roman road, branching ofi' through Glencairn from the great road up Nithsdale, passeil through the lands of Altry in Dairy, to the farm of Holm in Carsphairn, proceeded thence across the ridge of Pol what to the north-west extremity of the parish, and there entered Ayrshire to penetrate by Dalmellington to the frith of Clyde. Vestiges of the part of this road which traversed Kirkcudbnght- sliire still exist. A very ancient work, probably erected by the Romanized Britons, and intended for defence of the inhabitants on its south side, consists of a strong wall 8 feet broad at the base, built for the most part of stones, but occasionally of stones and earth, and strengthened on the north side by a fosse. See Deil's Dyke (The). The principal ecclesiastical antiquities are the abljeys of Dundren- nan, 'J'ongueland, and Newabbey, the priory of St. Mary's Isle, and the convent, and aftenvards the college, of Lincluden. The civil history of Kirkcudbrightshire is rapidly sketched in the article Galloway. 'J'lie Gaelic people of the district, who for so many years retained their own laws and practised their own usages, would not permit the introduction among them of a sheriff- dom. Till 1296, what is now the stewartry, was considered as a part of Dumfries-shire. Throughout the 13tli century, a violent struggle was maintained between the power of ancient usages, and that of the municipal law of recent introduction. The in- fluence of the Comjnis, under the minoritv' of Alex- ander III., introduced a justiciar}', — a beneficial change which was continued after Baliol's dethrone- ment. The forfeiture of the Comyns placed the lordship of Galloway in the ])Ossession of the illus- trious Bruce, and — Western Galloway being already under the jurisdiction of the sheriff of Wigton — seems to have occasioned the election of Eastern KIRKDEN. 256 KIRKFORTHER. and Central Galloway into the present stewartry. — In 1369, Archibald Douglas the Grim •wrenched, for himself and his heirs, from the weakness of David II., the lordsliip of Galloway, and with it the stew- artry to -which it gave appointment and power. But in 1455, when, on the forfeiture of the Douglases, the lordship of Galloway reverted to the Crown, the steward of Kirkcudbright became again the steward of the King. Tliough, for a long time, tlie territory continued to be nominally viewed as, in some re- spects, comprehended in Dumfries-shire, the steward was quite as independent as the sherift", and, within his own territory, I'egularly executed, in discharge of his office, the writs of the King, and the ordinan- ces of parliament. Before the commencement of the civil wars under Charles I., all trace of jurisdic- tional connexion in any form whatever with Dum- fries-shire had disappeared. But from 1488 till the abolition of iieritable jurisdictions in 1747, the stew- artry was enthralled by tiie imposition of a baronial or feudal cliaracter upon its supreme office. After the fall of James II. in that year, Patrick, Earl of Bothwell, obtained a grant of tlie powers of steward till tlie infint James IV. should attain the age of 21 years. In 1502, Sir John Dunbar of Mochruni got, for himself and his heirs, a grant for 9 years of the offices of steward of Kirkcudbright, and keeper of Thrive-castle, with their revenues, tlieir lands, and their fisheries. Early in the reign of James V., Robert Lord Maxwell obtained a similar grant for 19 years; and in 1526, he received the offices and their pertinents as a regular hereditary possession. At the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, Henrietta, the Countess-dowager of Hopetoun, and the leg;il representative of the Maxwells, was allowed £5,()Uii in compensation for the stewardship. Various other jurisdictions perplexed and chequered the district. The Stewarts of Garlics, who became Earls of Gal- loway, had a sepirate jurisdiction over all their estates in ilinnigaff and Kirkmabreck, and, in 1747, received for it £154 9s. lOd. The Lords Ilerries ruled separately over ' the regality of Terregles,' and. in 1747, were allowed for their jurisdiction £r2;i 4s. Id. The provosts of Lincluden, the abbot of Dundrennan, the abbot of Tongueland, the abbot of Newabbey, and the bishop of Galloway also had territories independent of the steward. The regality of Almoreness, and some eight or nine baronies, were likewise separate jurisdictions. When all the feudalities were overthrown, the emancipated stew- artry was placed under a Stewart- dejuite, whose functions were the same as those of the sheriff- depute. The first stewart-depute, at a salary of £150 a-year, was Thomas Miller, advocate, who, rising to the top of his profession, became pi'esident of the Court-of-session, and left a baronetcy with a fair name to his family. KIRKDALE. See ICiekmabreck. KIRKDEX, a parish, containing the post-office village of Friockheini, in the maritime district of Forfarshire. It is bounded by Dunnichen, Kescobie, Guthrie, Kinnell, Inverkeillor, and Carmylie. Its length eastward is nearly 7 miles; its greatest breadth is not more than two miles; and its breadth at one part does not exceed a stone-cast. Its sur- face lies on a basis of about 250 feet above the level of the Sea ; but it is not in itself hilly, except at the west end, and even there has more an undulating than an upland aspect. About 1,200 acres are dry kindly land, mixed with small stones, and called by the farmers a beachy soil ; about 900 acres are deep dry land, upon a bed of till ; and the rest is naturally wet and spongy, lying upon a bed of cold clay, but has been greatly improved by draining. Nearly the whole parish is adorned and sheltered by a judicious interspersion of wood. There are five landoAvners. The real rental in 1855 was £5,581. Assessed pro- perty in 1866, £9,409. Estimated value of raw agricultural produce in 1840, £27,630. Excellent sandstone is quarried. Lunan water, coming in from the west, runs 2J miles along the northern boundary; and Finny-burn, coming in from the south-west, flows 3^ miles along the boundary, and then 2 miles sinuously in the interior, joined in the way by a rill of 4 miles length of course from the south-west, and falling into the Lunan just before it leaves the parish, 'i'he streams furnish eels and excellent liura trout; and are subordinated to the driving of machinery. Manufactures, in connexion with Dundee, and in the linen staple, engage a large part of tiie population. The parish is traversed by the road from Arbroath to Forfar, and by the Aberdeen railway ; and it contains the Guthrie junction of that railway, and also a station for Friock- iieim, — the latter, 7 miles from Arbroath, and 51 f from Aberdeen. The mansions are Pitmuies-house, Middleton-house, and Gard3'ne-Castle ; the last of which is a very fine specimen of an old baronial residence, somewhat resembling the castle of Glam- mis. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,039; in 1361, 1,862. Houses, 334. Tills parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £157 18s. 5d.; glebe, £13. Schoolmaster's salary now is £40, with about £12 fees, and £6 other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1825, and contains 525 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Friockheini, in the presentation of such male heads of families as are communicants. There is also a Free church at Friockheira, with an at- tendance of about 250 ; and its receipts in 1865 amounted to £272 17s. 4d. There is also a Morii- sonian chapel at Friockheini, with an attendance of about 55. There are a subscription school and a parochial library. This parish was anciently called Idvie. in consequence of its glebe being situated in the barony of Idvies: and it takes its modern name of Kirkden from the circumstance of its church being placed in one of those dells which are provincially termed dens. KIKKDOMIX^E, an ancient chapelry within the old parish of Girvan, but included iu the modern parish of Barr, in the south of Carrick, Ayrshire. The chapel stood on an eminence on the north bank of the Stineher, •iiid belonged to the monks of Cross- raguel. The inhabitants of the circumjacent coun- try petitioned, in 1 639, to have it erected into a par- ish church, but do not seem to have been heard. When the parish of Barr was erected in 1653, the roof of the chapel was, with singular economy, car- ried off and placed on the new parish-church. A great annualfair is held at Kirkdominse. See Bark. KIRKITELDBANK, or Kiukland, a village in the parish of Lesmahago. It stands about 1 mile west of Lanark, on the road thence to Glasgow. The river Clyde passes contiguous to it, making a beauti- ful sweep, and containing a romantic little wooded island, and is here spanned by a substantial bridge of three arches. The village consists chiefly of two ranges of houses, along the two sides of the road. Nearly adjoining it is another range of houses, called Dublin, on the south side of the road; and close upon this row of houses is the village of Linville. These two villages may be regarded as a continua- tion of Kiikfieldbank; and all the three are inhabited principally bv weavers. Population in 1861, 1,212. KIRK FOREST. See Carlcke. KIRKFORTHER, an ancient chapelry 8 miles north of Kirkcaldy, Fifeshire. About the beginning KIRKGUNZEON. 257 KimOBBOST. of the 17th century, it was annexed to tlie parish of Markinch. The chapel is in ruins, but the burying- ground is still in use. KIltKGUNZEON, a parish, containing the post- ofHce village of Kirkgunzeon, and the A'illage of Gate- side, in the south-east of Kircudbrightshire. It is bounded by Lochrutton, Newabbey, Colvend, and Urr. Its length southward is about 7 miles; and its greatest breadth is 4| miles. Kirkgunzeon burn, called also Dalbeattie burn, a tributary of the Uri-, flows sinuously through the interior, and along the lower part of the western boundary. Three or four minor brooks water the interior. The surface of the parish is, in general, hilly; yet contains a con- siderable proportion of fine flat land. The liills, tlie greater section of which ranges from north to south along the east, are, in some instances, heathy and fit only for sheep pasturage, but, in other instances, are covered with soil and verdure, and serve either for tillage or for the feeding of black cattle. Tlie lowlands are, for the most part, veiy fertile; but, till improved by draining and the removing of ob- structions, were rendered in a great degree impracti- cable to the plough by swamps, little stony hills, and large isolated blocks of stone. The prevailing fences are whinstone dikes. Granite abounds in the south ; and this parish supplies the surrounding country with beautiful and remarkabh' durable pil- lars for gates and steps for stairs. There are five landowners; and the most extensive of these is Mr. Maxwell of Terregles. At Barclosh, Corrah, and Drumcultran are ancient towers or castles, the first once the seat of the family of Herries, and the sec- ond built by Sir John Maxwell, who obtained by marriage the estate and titles of Terregles. There are also a Druidical temple, and several Roman camps. The village of Kirkgunzeon stands on Kirkgunzeon burn, and on the south road from Castle Douglas tf) Dumfries, 4 miles north-north- east of Dalbeattie. Population of the parish in 1831,652; in 1861, 793. Houses, 122. Assessed property in 1860, £5,378. This parish is in the presbytery and synod of Dumfries. Patron. Maxwell of Terregles. Stipend, £158 6s. 6d.; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's salary, i'40, with about £15 fees. The parish church was built in 1790, and contains 224 sittings. In its vicinity is a spring called Winning's well. The old name of the parish was Kirkwinnyn, or Kirkwinong, and was taken from the same saint as that of Kil- winning in Ayrshire. The church, with its per- tinents, was given by Uchtred, the son of Fergus, Lord of Galloway, to the monks of Holm-Cultram, in Cumberland; and continued with them till they took part in the English wars against David Brace; and it was then, in 1369, given to Sir John Herries of Terregles, and made a free parsonage. A separate commissaiiat, independent of that of Dumfries, an- ciently extended over Kirkgunzeon, and was her- editarily held by the Earls of Nithsdale; but, like other jurisdictions of its class, it was abolished in 1747. KIRKHILL, a parish on the north border of Inverness-shire. It is bounded on the east and south liy Inverness parish; on the west, by Kiltar- lity; and on the north, by the Beauly river, and the ]}eauly frith, which separate it from Kilmorack and iVom Ross-shire. Its post-town is Inverness. Its length is about 8 miles: and its breadth is from 1 mile to 3 miles. Its surface, for 4 miles is a nar- row strip, declining to the Beauly frith; and thence inward, it consists of hills, pretty high and covered with heath. The soil of the low grounds is a rich clayey loam ; but that higher up is thin and gravelly. There Are some natural woods of birch and alder, TF. and a great extent of plantations. The Landed pro- perty is distributed among seven landowners, the most extensive of whom is Lord Lovat. The man- sions are Keelick. Newton, Lentram. Fingask, and Auchnagairn. On a moor are a number of tumnli, which are said to be memonals of a desperate en- gagement between two rival clans. There were recently remains of two Dniidical temples. On the coast are two landing places, Fopachy and Wester- Lovat, where vessels import lime and coals, and export timber and grain. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,715; in 1861, 1.757. Houses, 373. As- sessed property in 1860, £8,493. This parish is in the presbytery of Inverness, and synod of Moray. Patron. Professor Hercules Scott. Stipend, £247; glebe, £16. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with aljoiit £20 fees. There is a Free churcli: attendance, 700; sum i-aised in 1865, £235 lis. 7|d. There are also two Free church schools. The pre- sent parish comprehends the ancient parishes of Wardlaw and Farnua. "On the summit of the hill, behind the manse, stood the old church of Wardlaw. 'The Chapel,' as it is called, which occupies the locale of that building, has long been the burying- place of the Lovat family, and of the cadets nearest them in blood. The walls are hung round with escutcheons and tablets of many generations; and the monuments of the Lords Thomas and Simon Eraser of Lovat are particularly worthy of notice. Around the chapel the poorer classes of the clan, and the other inhabitants of the parish, inter their dead." KIRKHILL, a village in the parish of Penicuick, Edinburghshiie. It stands on a rising ground on the left bank of the north Esk, half-a-mije north- east of the village of Penicuick; and is inhabited chieflv bv paperinakers and weavers. Population, 342. " KIRKHILL, one of the group of villages con- stituting what may be called the town of Cambug- lanff, in the parish of Cambuslang, Lanarkshire. Most of its inhabitants are employed in trade and manufacture. Population, 216. Houses 26. KIRKHILL, an eminence, with an altitude of about 850 feet above sea-level, in the parish of Avondale, Lanarkshire. KIRKHILL, Dumfries- shire. See Drtfespale. KIRKHILL, Forfarshire. See Kixsettles. KIRKHILL, Clackmannanshire. See Tili.i- COCLTRT. KIRKH0L:M, a small island in the mouth of Selivoe, in the parish of Sandsting, Shetland. _ It presents every appearance of having at one time been put in a "state of military defence. KIRKHOPE, an ancient parish in Selkirkshire. It was incorporated with the ancient parishesof Duchoire and St. Mary's to form the modern parish of Yarrow; and it then constituted the north-east and the south-east districts of that parish. Its church stood in a close-headed vale or "hope." called from it Kiikhope, along which a rill rans to the Ettrick at Ettrick-bridge. The parish of Kirk- hope was disjoined from Yarrow, and reconstituted into a separate parish in 1852. Its post-town is Selkirk. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, 18 chaldcrs. The territory will be described, and the statistics given, in tlieir old connection with Yarrow. See the article YarHow. KIRKIBBOST, an island in the parish of North Uist, Inverness-shire. It lies contiguous to the south-west side of the island of Uist, and is insulated only at high water. It is about a mile long, but of no great breadth. It com- prises low fertile land, and was at one time of con- siderable value, bnt was desolated and reduced by KIRKIBOLL. 258 KIRKINTILLOCH. the fury of the western gales. I'opulation in 1861, 17. Houses, 2. KIKKIi5()LL, a village in the parish of Tongue, Sutherlaiiilrshire. It stands on the slope of a hill, a little upwards of a mile from Tongue-house, ami about 4 miles north of Loeli Loyal. It contains only the manse, a commodious inn, and a few scat- tered cottMges. Population, 92. KlKKINiN'ER, a parish, containing tlic posS office village of Kirkinner, and the villages of Marchfarm and Sloliabert, in the south-cast of Wigtonsliire. It is ])Oundcd on the east by Wigtdu bay, which divides it from Kirkcudbrightshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Sorbic, Glasserton, Mochruni, Kirkcowan, and Wigton. Its lengtii southward is GJ miles; and its greatest breadtii is 5^ miles. Wigton bay, over the 2j miles of its touching the parish, diminishes in width at higli- watcr from 4f to 2J miles, and at low water, from 3 or 3J miles to 2 furlongs, leaving at the efflu.K of tlie tide a belt of dry sands, on the Kirkinner side, from I to If of a mile broad. For a mile, and occasion- ally upwards of a mile, inland, stretelies from north to south a belt of carse ground, — Hat, deep, and very fertile fields of clay. All the rest of the sur- face is a congeries of little hills, gentle in th('ir out- line, verdant in their clothing, and, in some in- stances, wearing crowns of plantation on their sum- mits. Except for about half-a-mile inward from the carse, it has, in general, a thin and light soil, and does not seem to have been naturally fertile ; but by the best of known means it has been richly im- proved; and now it everywhere exhibits a well- cultivated and cheerful appearance. Even mosses have been reclaim.ed and made arable ; and not an acre can properly be called waste. Dowalton Loch ig on the southern boundary. Bladenoch-water traces most of the northern boundary, to Wigton bay. The streams ^lalzie and ^lildriggen drain the interior north-eastwaid to the Bladenoch. There is a small proprietory harbour on the Bladenoch at Baldoon, which raid^s as a creek of the port of Wig- ton, and at which £12 of dues were paid in 1852. The parish comprises the estates of I'aldoon, Bai-n- barroeh, Longcastle, and Dilreagle. The fine modern mansion of Barnbarroch, the seat of Agnew of SliL'Uchan, adorns the centre of the parish. The ancient castle of Balloon, situated on the Blade- noch, and once the seat of the Dunhars of Baldoon, from whom it passed by marriage to the Earls of .Selkirk, and afterwards by purchase to the Earls of Galloway, was the scene of an incident which is believed to have suggested the plot of Sir Walter Scott's ' Tale of the Bride of Lammermoor.' There are vestiges of two circular camps. Tlie estimated yearly s'alue of raw pioduce in 1^38 was £33,800. Assessed property in 1860, £13,588. A few persons are employed in linen weaving. The village of Kirkinner stands 3 miles south of Wigton, on the road thence to Whithorn. Popula- tion of tlie parish in 1831, 1,514; in 1861, 1,716. Houses, 301. This parish is in the presbytery of Wigton, and synod of Gallowav. Tatron, Acnew of Slieuchan. Stipend, £265 Os. lid.; frlebe, .€20. Unappropriated teinds, £411 Is. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary is now £50, with £28 fees, and £6 other emoluments. There are three private schools. The parisli church is a handsome edifice, built in 1828, and containing 600 sittings. The ancient church was dedicated to St. Kinneir — abbreviated into Kinner in the name of the parish — a virgin said to have suftered martvr- dom at Cologne in 450. Tiie church was granted by Edward Bruce, Lord of Galloway, t^ome mis- cellaneous business is done in shopping and handi- crafts for the surrounding country. A weekly mar- ket is held on Fridaj'; there is also a fortnightly cattle market; and annual fairs are held in June, July, October, and December. The branch railway which has just been formed, to connect the town with the Scottish Midland railway, is likely to prove beneficial. The town has offices of the National, the British Linen, and the City of Glasgow banks, a savings' bank, nine insurance agencies, a gas light company, a subscription library, two other pub- lic libraries, a gardener's society, a horticultural society, an education society, and a variety of phi- lanthropic and religious institutions. Kirriemuir is a burgh of barony, under Sir Charles Lyell of Kinnordy; but, as a burgh, it has neither })roperty, revenue, nor debt. A baron bailie, ap- pointed by the superior, is the only magistrate ; and he did not use to exercise any jurisdiction, but now presides as judge in a police and barony court- Matters of police are managed b)- a body of com- missioners, witli the baron bailie as chairman. A sheriff small debt court is lield on the third JMonday of January, March, May, July, September, and A'o- veinber. Justice of peace small debt courts are lield on the first Friday of every moiitli. The town has a considerable antiquity; but no interesting events, and few authentic ones of any kind, in its early his- tory, are on record. A curious feud formerly existed between the weavers of Kirriemuir and the sutors of Forfar; and has been noticed in our article on Forfar. Population of Kirriemuir in 1841, 3,067; in 1861,3,275. Houses, 539. KIRTA, a small island, near the west coast of Lewis, in the outer Hebrides. KIKTLE (The), a stream of the district interme- diate between Annandale and Eskdale, in the south- east of Dumfries-shire. It rises in the extreme north of the parish of Jliddlebie, within ^ a mile of a head-water of the Milk, a tributary of the Annan on the west, and within 1^ mile of a head-stream of Wauchope-water, a tributary of the Esk on the east. Flowing 3f miles due south, and receiving tributary brooks from the hills, it falls upon the parish of Kirkpatrick-Fleining, and for 5 miles divides it from Middlebie, Annan, and a detached part of Dornock. It then runs 2 J miles south-south-eastward through its interior; and alter a further course of 2 miles in the same direction through the parish of Gretna, entei's the Solway frith at Kirtlefoot. See articles KiRKPATiucK -Fleming and Gkltna. KIRTLE-BRIDGE, a post-oflice village on the southern verge of the parish of Middlebie, Dumflies- shire. It stands on the right bank of Kirtle water, and on the road from Lockerby to Carlisle, 3 miles soutli-east of Ecclefechan, and 4 north-west of Kirkpatrick- Fleming. Contiguous to it, but within the parish of Annan, is a cliapel of ease. Ad- jacent to it also is a station on the main trunk of the Caledonian railway; and over the Kirtle here is a viaduct of that railway, comprising nine arches, each 36 feet in span. The Kirtle, in the vicinity of the village, and downward thence to Kirkpatriek, but particularly in the tract noticed in our article Kirkconnel, is a beautiful stream, well worthy of the muse of the laureate, who sings : — '• F:iir Helen Irvine, as she sat Uiiim the braes of Kirtle, Was lovely as a Grecian maid. Adorned with wreaths of myrtle." KIllTLE-FOOT. Sec Kirtle (The). KlIiTOMY. See Fakk. KISHOKN (Loch), a projection, about 3 rnilcs long, in a north-north-eastward direction, from tne north side of Loch-Carron, and lying between the parish of Lochcarron and the parish of Applecross, in the south-west of Eoss-shire. KISSIMUL. See Baisua. KITCHEN-LINN, an atHuent of Briech water, at the east end of the parish of Cambusnethan, Lanark- shire. KITTERICK, a mountain overlooking the stream Palmure, and suddenly rising to the height of 1,000 or 1,200 feet, in the parish of Minnigaff, Kirkcud- brightshire. At its base, on the bank of the stream, shut out for six weeks in winter from the rays of the sun, stood the hut in which Dr. Alexander Murray, the celebrated linguist, was born; and around is tlie wild and sterile, the rude and sublime scenery amid which his early genius was cradled. KITTOCK (The), a streamlet of tlie north-west border of Lanarkshire. It rises in a marsh called KITTOCKSIDE. 275 KNAPDALE. Kittock's Eye, about 2 miles south of the viUage of East Kilbride, and runs north-westward past that village, past the village of Kittockside, and across the parish of Carmunnock, to a junction with the White Cart, below the village of Eusbv. ^KITTOCKSIDE, a village in the parish of East Kilbride, Lanarkshire. It stands on the northern border of that parish, about 4 miles soutli of Glas- gow; and is a small but pleasant place. KLETT, a small island, 2 miles south-south-west of Lo3hinvar, belonging to the parish of Assynt, on the west coast of Sutlierlandshire. KLOACHNABANE. See Clachnabaxe. KNAIK (The), a rivulet of the parish of Mutliil, Perthshire. It rises in Glenlicli-horn, and flows south-eastward past the steep Ijanks on the west boundary of Ardoch camps, to the Allan, a mile be- low the bridge of Ardoch. Its length of course is 8 miles. KNAPDALE, a district of Argyleshire. It is bounded on the north by Loch-Crinan, the Crinan Canal, and LochGilp; on the east, by Loch-Fyne, which separates it from Cowal; on the south, by Kintyre and Loch-Tarbert; and on the west, by the narrow seas which separate the mainland from the islands of Islay, Jura, and Scarba. Its length soutli- ward is about 20 miles; and its greatest breadth is 16 miles. Except for the intersection of Loch-Tar- bert, it is strictly a continuation northward of tlie peninsula of Kintyre; yet it is itself so deeply in- dented on the west side by Loch-Caolisport and Loch- Swin as to be in a great measure cut within its own limits into three peninsulas, the most southerly of which, between Loch-Tarbert and Loch-Caolisport, is tlie largest, and the most northerly, between Locli- Swin and the Sound of Jura, is the smallest. Its name is compounded of two Gaelic words, which signify a hill and a plain, and which, taken together, denote a country composed of hills and dales; and this is perfectly descriptive of the district. Its an- cient name, however, was Kilvick-Charmaig, sig- nifying the church or burying-ground of the son of Carmaig ; and the Carmaig to whom that name al- ludes is said to have been an Irish missionary who first preached Christianity to its natives. It is not now a political division of Argyleshire, liut lies partly in the district of Argyle proper, and partly in the district of Islay. It formed one parish previous to 1734, but was then divided into two parishes, called North Knapdale and South Knapdale. The whole district appears to have been anciently in the possession of two clans, the M'Millans and the M'Neills, whose descendants here have nearly dis- appeared. KNAPDALE (North), a parish, containing the post-ofiice villages of Tayvallich and L'ellanoch, in Argyleshire. Though lying on the mainland, it belongs politicall}- to the district of Islay. It is bounded by Loch-Crinan, the Crinan Canal, the parish of South Knapdale, and the Sound of Jura, its length south-westward is about 13^ miles; and its breadth is about 6 miles. It is divided into two nearlj^ equal parts by the intersection of Loch-Swin. See the articles Swin (Loch), Castle-Swin, and Keills. The extent of coast, along the Sound of Jura and within Loch-Swin, cannot be less than 50 miles. The interior is much diversified by lowland and upland, by wood and water, and both contains and connnands veiy Ijoautiful landscapes. Its high- est ground is Cruach-Lussa, rising 2,004 feet above sea-level. See the article Cruach-Lussa. Other hills of conspicuous character are those of Dunar- dary, Duntaynish, Ervary, and Arichonan, the last of which has an elevation of about 1,200 feet above 5ea-level. A chain of heights, culminating in Cruach- Lussa. extends from north-east to south-west ; the slopes or flanks of this chain decline seaward into gentle acclivities; and the ground thence to the east shore of Locli-Swin, a dis'tance of nearly half-a- mile, is a gently inclined plain. The soil of the arable lands is variously sandy, gravelly, mossy, and loamy; and, at the south-west extremity of the parish, it is rich and fertile. There are about 21 freshwater lakes; but the largest of them is not more than 3 miles in circumference. Excellent springs are abundant; some of them strongly im- pregnated with lime. About 3,400 imperial acres of land are in tillage; about 22,126 are waste or pas- toral; and about 2,181 are underwood. There are four landowners, and the most extensive of them is Malcfdm of Poltalloch. The real rental in 1844 was £.5,446; the value of assessed property in 1860, £5,638 Os. Od.; the estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1844, £14,990. Five or six small decked vessels trade to Greenock, Liverpool, and Ireland. The fisheries are worth about £100 a-year. The principal antiquities, additional to Castle-Swin, are a mound on which the Lo)-ds of the Isles are said to have held courts of justice, remains of three old f(jrts or watch towers, the ruin of the chapel of St. Car- maig, an ancient cro=s nine feet high, and the ruins of the religious liouse of Drininacraig. The parish is traversed by the road from Lochgilphead to the Jura ferry, and has ready access to the steameis which pass through the Crinan Canal. Population in 1831, 2,.583; in 1801, 1,327. Houses, 249. This parish is in the presbytery of Inverary, and synod of Argvle. Patron, the Crown. Stipend. £164 6s. lOd.;" glebe, £22. There are two parish- churches, — the one at Kilmichael-Inverlussay, seat- ing 432; the other at TayvalHch, seating 896; tlie former built in 1819, the "latter in 1827. They are on opposite sides of Loch-Swin, and the minister officiates in them alternately. There is a Free church, with an attendance of about 150; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £99 6s. 8d. There are three parochial schools, two of them with a salary of £25, and the other with £20. There are likewise six private scliools. Major- General Sir Archibald Campbell, who figured in the American war, acted for some time as governor of Jamaica, and died in 1791, was a native of North Knapdale. KNAPDALE (South), a parish, containing the post-town of Ardrishaig, and part of the post-town of Tarbcrt, in the Argyle district of Argyleshire. It comprises all the district of Knapdale, excepting what is comprised in the parish of North Knapdale. Its length south-south-westward is 21 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 10 miles. Loch-Caol- isport penetrates its west side in a north-eastward direction, to the extent of 5h miles, with an average width of about 1^ mile. It has several fine bays, which afibrd safe anchorage; and is flanked by shores, which are partly bold and partly gradual, but all richly covered with copsewood. The general surfiice of the parish is roughly upland. One range extends 12 miles from luverneill to Barnellan. and connnands one of the most extensive, varied, and grandly picturesque views in Britain, from Islay to the Perthshire mountains, and from Mull to Ireland, with everywhere a crowded intervening space of mountain-heights and belts of the sea. Other ele- vations extend parallel to tin's principal range, and are separated from one another by deep well-shel- tered dales. The extent of arable land bears but a small proportion to the extent of waste and pasture lands, and is very much intersected by hills and marshy grounds. The soil is chiefly of a mossy nature, lying upon a stratum of sand; but in the KXEES. 276 KNOCKBAIN. low ground it is loamy. Tliere is a considerable acrgregate area under woo 1, Iwth natural and planted. There are five or six lakes, and very many rills and toiTents. A le.ad mine was wrought for some time on the estate of Inverneill. There are nine land- owners. The mansions are Auchendarroch, Inver- neill, Ormsary, Erines, Driindrishaig, and Barmore. About fifty boats are employed in the lierring-fisheiy on Loch-Fyne. Large facility of communication is enjoved through Ardrishaig. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,137; in 1361, 2,-^19. Houses, 3U. Assessed property in 1860, £,7,'-\lu. This palish is in the presbytery of Inverary, and synod of Argyle. Patron, the Crown. {Stipend, £153 IBs. Gd.; glebe, £10. There are two parish- chnrches. — the one built at Inverneill, and the other at Achoish, both about the year 177."^, and each con- taining 250 sittings. 'J'here is a Free church preach- ing station ; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 18.55 was £2 4s. 2d. There are four parochial schools, and tliey have divided amongst them the maximum salary. There are also an Assembly's school, and two or three winter private schools. There were fonnerly within the limits of 8outh Knapdale seven ancient chapels; but the remains of only three of these are now to be seen. KNEES, a headland, consisting of a bold nnss nf conglomerate, about 7 miles >iorth-nnrth-east of StoiTioway, on the east coast of Lewis, in the Outer Hebrides. KNIGHTSRIDGE, an estate in the parish of Livingstone, Linlithgowshire. A hill on this estate, in the north-east corner of the parish, called Knights- ridge-hill or Dechmont-Law, has an elevation of GS6 feet above the level of the sea, and commands a very extensive prospect. KNIGHTSWOOD, a village in the Dumbarton-shire section of East Kilpatrick. It stands on the south- eastern verge of Dumbartonshire, midway between Yoker and Maryhill, 5 miles north-west of Glasgow. Population, 319. KNIPE. See Cumnock 'New). KNOCK, a Gaelic word, signifyiMg a liill. It is nsed by itself to designate many a hill in Scotland, and in a few instances to designate an estate or other locality characterized by a hill. It is also used in apposition with other names, particularly the names of parishes or towns, as in tlie cases of Knock of Alves, Knock of Bathgate, Knock of Crieff. Knock of Fordoun, Knock of Fordyce, Knock of Grange, Knock of Ordiquhil, and Knock of Renfrew. And it is used in many instances as a prefix. KNOCK (The). See Ede.nmcilmk, Kii.dalton, and Renfrew. KNOCK (TowEii of). See Glkn.mujck. KNOCKANDO, a parish, containing the village of Arcbieston, and the post-oflice station of Knock- .•mdo, in the sovith-east of Morayshire. It is bounded by Dallas, Biruie, Rothes, In veraven, Aberlour, Croni- dale, and Edenkillie. Its length north-eastward is about 15 J miles; and its breadth is from 2 to 6 miles. The river Spey traces the wdiole of its north-eastern boundarj-, from Cromdale to Rothes, a little beneath Craigellachie bridge ; and in one part of that river's course here occurs the rock of Tomdow, which is the most dangerous point for the floats of timl)er from the forests of Rothiemurchus and Abernetliy to the sea. The burn of Aldyoulie, the burn of Aldarder, the burn of Knockando, the burn of Bal- lintomh, and some other brooks drain the interior down rapid descents to the Spey, making some beautiful little w-iterfalls in their progress. There are two smdl lochs in the moorlands. The general surface of the parish is con>iderably diversified with haughs, lising grounds, hills, glens, and moorlands; ascending on the whole, from beautiful low grounds on the Spey to tracts of wild heathy mountain on the interior border, with an extreme elevation there which is commonly reckoned the highest ground in Morayshire, and which, in fine weather, commands a very extensive pr(jspect. There are irany mineral springs. The rocks are variously granitic, schistose, and sedimentary. The soil near the Spey is sandy; higher up, it is black gravelly mould; still higher, it is a heivy clay; and toward tlie moors, it is mossy. There are large expanses of moss, particularly at Milton, Monahoudie, and Mannoch. There are considerable plantations at Archieston, Corgyle, Easter Elchies, and other places. The great flood of 1829 worked terrible devastation in the tracts of Aldarder burn, Knockando burn, and other part.s of the parish. The landowners are Grant of Wester Elchies, Grant of Ballindalloch, and the Earl of Sea- field. The mansions are Wester Elchiesdiouse, Knockando-house, and Glengunnery-cottage. The old valued rental was £1,987 Scotch." Assessed pro- perty in 1860, £5,176 Os. Od. There are four grain- mills, a waulk-niill, a carding-mill, saw and thresh- ing mills, and two distilleries. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,497; in 1861, 1,736. Houses, 355. This parish is in the presbyteiy of Aberlour, and synod of Moray. Patron, the" Earl of Seafield. Sti- pend, £158 6s. 7d.; glebe, £13. The parish church was built in 1757, and repaired in 1832, and contains 477 sittings. Theie is a Free church of Kr.ockando; Mild tlie amount of its receipts in 1865 was £61 7s. 4§d. There is an United Pre.sbyteiian cliuich at Archieston, with an attendance of aljout 175. There is also an Independent chapel, built in 1818, and containing 200 sittings. There are two parochial schools, with each a snlai-y of £40 .ns fixed by the act of 1861, and a shaie in the Dick bequest. There are also three Society schools and a private school. The present parisii of Knockando compre- hends the ancient parishes of Knockando and Mac- allan, both of which were vicarages. A small vestige of Macallan church still remains; and there are two or three places in the parish where chapels or religious houses are supposed to have stood. KNOCKBAIN, a parish, containing the post-oflice village of Munlochy and the village of Charleston, in the south-east corner of Ross-shire. It is bounded by the Moray frith, and by the parishes of Avoch, lirquhart, and Killearnan. Its length south-south- Avestward is about 6^ miles; and its breadth is about 5^ miles. It comprises the north side ol Kessock ferry, extends thence along the Moray frith toward Avoch, and is intersected westward by Mun- lochy bay. Its surface is smooth, and rises gradually from the coast to the sumnn't of the MuUbuy. Sie the articles Kessock, Muni.ooiv, and Muli.bly. The rocks belong to the old red sandstone forma- tion. The soil is very various, and lies upon a diver- sity of subsoil, but, in general, is good. About 3.050 imperial acres are in tillage. The plantations are ex- tensive; and there is no undivided connnoii. There are five landowners. The mansion of Belmaduthy is a princely abode, with a fine square of every other suitable acconnnodation. The real rental is upw'ards of £6,000. Assessed property in I860, £5,176 Os. Od. A battle was fought in this parish, in tlie 13th century, between the Macdonalds and the inhabitants of Inverness. General Mackenzie, who fell at tiie battle of Tdlavera. was a native. Population of tlu; parish in 1831,2,139; in 1861,2,485. Houses,523. This parish is in the presbytery of Chanonry, and the synod of Ross. Patrons, the Crown and the Marchioness of Stafford. Stipend, £232 18s. 8d.; glebe, £22. Unappropriated teinds, £92 14s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £52 ISs. Od. The parish KKOCKBRECK. 277 KYLE-AKIN. sliurch was repaired and enlarged about 35 years ago, and contains about 750 sittings. There is a Fi'ee church, with an attendance of about 1,200; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £205 14s. 4r|d. There is also an Episcopalian chapel, with an attendance of about 100 There are three non- parochial schools. The parish of Knockbain was constituted in 1756 by the union of the parishes of Kilmuir- Wester and iSuddy; and it took the name of Knockbain from the spot on which the church was built. Kilmuir signifies " the church of iMarj-; " Suddy, "a good place to settle in;" and Knock- bain, "the white hill." KNOUKBIRNEY. See Kincardine, Ross-shire. KNOCKBRECK, a hill and a stream in the island of Jura. There is a salmon fishery on the stieaai. KNOCK-CASTLE. See Lakgs and Skye. KNOCKDOLIAN. See Colmonell. KNOCKDOW. See Inverchaolain. KNOCKELDERABOLL. a mountain on the mutual boundary of the parishes of Loth and Kil- donan, in Sutherlandshire. KNOCKENBAIRD, a hill in the parish of Insch, Abei'deenshire. KNOCKFARRIL, a conical eminence, crowned with a vitrified fort, on the south side of the valley of Strathpeffer, in the parish of Fodderty, Ross-shire. Tliis hill-fort is one of the most beautiful and strongly marked in Scotland. The ascent of it from the valley is very steep, almost vertical. The vitrified rampart on the top encloses an oval area of about 420 feet by 120; and is defended by breastvY'orks, which proceed down the adjoining slopes. It com- mands a distinct view of Craigphadric, in the vicinity of Inverness, and of Dunskaith, on the northern Sutor of Cromarty. A regular chain of forts are in sight both toward the west along the Great Glen, and toward the east; so that, on the appearance of an enemy on either side of the island, an alarm could be given from Knockfarril to the whole country from coast to coast, perhaps within an hour. KNOCKFIN. See Kiltarlity. KNOCKGEORGAN. See Ardrossan. KNOCKGERRAN, a barony belonging to the Marquis of Ailsa, in the parish of Dailly, and in- cluding the island of Ailsa, in Ayrshire. KNOCKHALL. See Ueekness and Foverax. KNOCKHEAD, a point of land, extending into a reef of rocks, at tlie north-eastern extremity of the parish of Boindie, in Banffshire. It is situated about 2 miles west-north-west of the town of Banff. KNOCKHILL. See Fordyce, IIodda:j, For- DOUN, and Grange. KNOCK-HOUSE. See Torosay. KNOCKINGLAW. See Invehury. KNOCKINHAGLISH, the site of an ancient church, on the lands of Finnich-Lrununond, in the parish of Drymen, Stirlingshire. KNOCKINTIBER, a village in the parish of Kilmaurs. Ayrshire. KNOCKIRNY, a mountain on the mutual border of KinCArdine in Ross-shire, and of Assynt in Sutherlandshire. It abounds in white and party- colouied marble. KNOCKLAGAN, a picturesque hill, " the hill of hollows," on the west side of the parish of Edder- toun, Ross-shire. KNOCKMADE, a barony belonging quoad sacra to the parish of Beith, Ayrshire, but formerly in- cluded in the parish of Neilston in Renfrewshire, and still belonging quoad civilia to the latter county. KNOCKMAHAR, a hilly ridge, between the hill of Blair and the Lornty burn, in the parish of Blairgowrie, Perthshire. It rises higher than the hill of Blair, and is partly cultivated and partly covered with plantations of Scotch pine. KNOCKMAX. See Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire. IvNOCK]\IOY. See Kintyke (Mull of). KNOCKNALLAIG. See Kells. KNOCKNABARYVICH, a considerably high hill in the parish of Reay, Caithness-shire. KNOCKNAVIE, a wooded hill, cnnvned by a cairn, called the cairn of the gallov.s, in the parish of Rosskeen, Ross-shire. KNOCKNOAVTON, an eminence in the eastern part of the parish of Cambusnethan, Lanarkshire. It commands a gorgeous view of Strathclyde, to- gether with distant backgrounds, — Edinburgh- castle on the east, Loudon-hill and the peaks of Arran on the south, and Dumbarton-castle, Ben- lomond, ?.Bu the mountains of Argyleshire on the west. KNOCKSHOGGLEHOLM, a village in the parish of Coylton, Ayrshire. Population, 102, Houses, 19. KNOCKSIDE, a hill, rising to the altitude of 1,419 feet above the level of the sea, in the parish of Largs, Avrshire. KNOCKSLEITILL, a high hill in the parish of Reav, Caithness-shire. KNOCKSTING. See Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire. KNOCK-WATER. See Knaik (The). KNOCKWOOD. See Kiekmichael, Dumfries- shire. KNOWE, a post-oflice station subordinate to Xewton-Stewart, in Galloway. KNOWE OF SKAE, a headland on the south- west of the island of Westray, in Orkney. KNOWHEAD. See Denny. KNOWS, a manufacturing locality, in the vicinity of the town of Beith, Ayrshire. KNOX (John). See Aberdeen and Edinburgh. KNOYDART, a district on the west coast of the mainland of Inverness-shire. See Glenelu and Inverness-shire. KOLLIEBEN, a hill on the mutual boundary of the parishes of Clyne and Loth, Sutherlandshire. KOOMB. See Ellan-na-coomb. KOR-STONE. See Monedie. KYLE, a Celtic word, signifying a frith or a narrow belt of sea. It is used in Scottisli topogra- phical nomenclature, both as a prefix and in apposi- tion, both in the singular number and in the plural. The name Kyle, however, as applied to a district in Ayrshire, is not this word, but a corruption of Coil or Coyle. . KYLE, the middle distiict, anciently the middle bailiewick, of Ayrshire. It is bounded on the north by the river Irvine, which divide.s it from Cunning- ham; on the north-east bv Lanarkshire; on the east by Dumfries-shire; on the south by Kirkcudbright- shire; on the south-west by the river Doon, which divides it from Carrick ; ;vnd on the west by the frith of Civde. The river Ayr rising on its eastern boundary ,"^ and traversing it westward to the Clyde, divides it into Kyle-Stewart oft the north, and King's-Kyle on the south. Its chief streams, addi- tional to the Ayr, are the Coyl and the Luggar, tri- butaries of time river,— the Cessnock, a tributary of the Irvine,— and the Nith, which drains its south- east corner, and passes into Dumfries-shire. _ Its parishes are Dundonald, Riccarton. Galston, Craigie, Symington, Mauchline, Sorn, Muirkirk, Monkton, Tarbolton, Newton, St. Quivox, Stair. Auchinleck, Ayr, Coylton, Ochiltree, Old Cunuiock, New_ Cum- nock, Dalrymple, and Dalmellington,— all in the presbytery of Ayr. Population in 1831, 56,066; in 1861, 73,279. Houses, 10.059. KYLE-AKIX, the strait at the north-westeru KYLE-AKIX. 278 KYPE'S-RIGG. extremity of the sound which separates the island [ of Skye from the Scottish mainhmd. It is very nar- | row, insonmcli that a common fable represents the ' old method of passage over it to have been by leaping. KYLE-AKIN, a post-office villajire in the parish of Strath, in the island of Skye. It stands on the shore of tlie strait of Kyle- Akin, 8i miles north-east of Broadford. It was founded by the late Lord Macdonald, oa a grand plan, as an intended con- siderable sea-port, to consist chiefly of two-story houses with attics; but has never yet exceeded, and gives no near prospect of exceeding, the limits of a mere village. Yet it is one of the main thoroughfares l)etwecn Skye and the mainland, has a good inn, and is the seat or meethig-place of the synod of Glenelg. Population, 231. Houses, 40. KYLE-CASTLE. See Auchinleck. KYLE-OF-DURNESS. See Durness. KYLE-OF-KINCARDINE, the narrow upper part of the Dornoch frith. See Dornoch Frith (The). KYLE-OF-LAXFORD, the long narrow bay, otherwise called Loch Ltixford, which penetrates the middle part of the parish of Edderaeliyliis, on the west coast of Sutherlandshire. KYLE-OF-SUTHEFvLAND, the upper part of the Dornoch frith. KYLE-OF-TOXGUE. See Tongue. KYLE-RIIEA, the strait at the north-east end of tlie sound of Sleat, between the island of Skye and tlie Scottisli mainland. It is the thoroughfare from Skye to the Great Glen by way of Glenelg, Its width is about J of a mile, and the current of the tide through it is exceedingly rapid; but the ferry-boats upon it are substantial and well managed. On each side of it stands a solitary inn, aflbrdiug pretty good accommodation. KYLE-SCOW, the long narrow bay which forms the mutual boundary of Assynt and Edderachyllis, on the west coast of Sutherlandshire. See Assvnt and Edderachyllis. KYLES-HILL. See Polwarth. KYLES-MURE. See Mauchline. KYLES-OF-BUTE, a narrow and remarkably picturesque arm of the frith of Clyde, separating the northern part of the island of Bute from Argyle- shire. It commences between Bogany-point in Bute and Toward-point in Cowal with a width of 2 miles. It suddenly expands, on the Bute side, into Rothesay bay, and soon after into Kaimes bay; and then, 2 miles farther on, sends off the picturesque Loch-Striven north-north-westward into Cowal. Its direction up to Strone-point, at the commencement of this loch, is north-westward, its length 4J miles, and its average breadth about 2 miles or somewhat les.s. It has here all the character of a capacious and most beautiful bay, brilliantly diversified in the lands which flank it, and commanding a view out- ward of the Big Cumbrae Island, and of a long sweep of the coast, of Ayrshire. At Strone-point it suddenly contracts to a width of less than half-a- niile; and thence it proceeds 5 miles north-west- ward to the mouth of Loch-Riddan. Everything, in this stretch, assumes a truly Highland aspect. The glen becomes narrow, the hills steep ; and along their rugged acclivities, as artlessly situated as the rocks with which they are strewn, ajjpears the ludely constructed shieling of the fisherman or shepherd ; while at wider intervals is seen the farmer's better- constructed cottage, surrounded witli a few patches of cultivated soil, appropriated to the pnxluction of potatoes, oats, and barley. About 1^ mile before arriving at the mouth of Loch-Riddan, the most picturesque part of the Kyles is reached. Here the passage narrows into the size of a small river, and the eye in vain searches for an opening through which to proceed — the hills being so closely joined as to appear like one immenso barrier surrounding the extremity of an inland lake. A little onward lie three small rocky islands, exhibiting the appearance of having once been exposed to the action of fire, from which cause they have received the name of the Burnt Islands; and on one of them stand the remains of a vitrified ibrt. In the mouth of Loch- Riddan appears the small but celebrated isle of Ellan-Dlieirrig, which was strong!}- fortified by the Earl of Ai-gyle in his great military movement of 1685. At this point, the Kyles make a sudden de- flexion. They proceed hence 2| miles in the direc- tion of south-west, I'etaining over that distance much of the narrowness of their previous course; and then they deflect again, and proceed thence in a southerly direction 6 or 8 miles toward Aidlamont-jioint and Inch-Marnoch, gradually expanding in their pro- gress, till they become lost in the wide expanse of waters at the conjunction of Kilhrannan-sound and Loch-Fyne. From the point of their last deflexion they so gradually and gracefully evolve themselves from their previous narrowness, and so grandly i>15en out toward a front view of Inch-Marnoch and the peaks of Arran, that the effect of the wide grand landscape upon the mind of a beholder, after his passage through the previous long strait, is in the highest degree enrapturing. The Kyles are tra- versed from end to end by the steamers which ply from Glasgow to Loch-Fyne; and in all their lower parts, from Rothesay-bay up to Loch-Riddan, they are now traversed also by steamers of their own, which ply to various neat watering places on their shores, and to Loch-Striven and Loch-Biddan. KYMAGH (The), a small affluent of the Livet, in the upper part of the parish of Inveraven, Banffshire. It rises near the boundary with Aberdeenshire, and ntns about 7 miles south-westward, to the centre of Glenlivet. KYPE (The), a stream of the south-western bor- der of Lanarkshire. It rises near the boundary with Ayrshire, and runs 5 miles north-eastward, on the boundary between Lesmahago and Avondale, and 3 miles north-westward, on the boundary between Avondale and Stonehouse ; and then falls into the Avon within a mile of Strath- aven. In its upper coui'se it is a bleak moorland stream, capable of being suddenly swollen into a mischievous torrent ; but, as it approaches the Avon, it becomes comparatively ornate, and makes a fine waterf;ill, of about 50 feet in leap. KYPE'S-RIGG, a ridge of hill, extending from the left bank of the Kype 2^ miles south-westward, in the parish of Avondale, Lanarkshire. KYTON. See Caledosiax Canax.. LACKSTA. 279 LADYKIRK. L LACHTALPIXE. See Dalmellingtox. LACKSTA (The), a streain abounding with trout and salmon, in the parish of Harris, in the Outer Hebiides. LACOCK. See Fottlts. LADADDA. See Fifkshire. LADDERS (The). See Katrine (Loch). LADHOPE, a quoad sacra parish on the north- west border of Roxburghshire. It was constituted by the Court of Teinds in 1855. It comprises part of the post-town of Galashiels, and tlie north-western part of the quoad civilia parish of Melrose. Its parish church was formerly a cliapel of ease, has an attendance of about 340, and is under the patronage of sucli male S3atholders as are communicants. There is a Free cliurch, witli an attendance of about 360; and the amount of its receipts in 1855 was £204 18s. 4J. See the articles Galashiels and AxELROSE LADIES' HILL. See Stirling. LADY, a name in the topographical nomenclature of Scotland, referring to the Roman Catholic times, when the Virgin Mary, called by the Roman Catho- lics '' Our Lady," was an object of the national worship. It is used in one or two instances alone, but is used more commonly as a prefix. LADY, a parish, comprising the north-eastern portion of the island of Sanday, in Orl^ney. Its post-town is Kirkwalh It is bounded on the south- west by the parish of Cross, and on all other sides by the sea. Its length south-westward is about 9 miles; and its average breadth is about 1 mile. It is deeply indented on tiie north-west by Otterswick bay, and on the south by Sty wick bay; and it sends out the promontorial headlands of Taftsness in the extreme nortli. Start in the extreme north-east, Tressness on the east side of Stywick bay, and Els- nesB on the west side of that bay. There is a lagoon or. tbe estate of Elsness, 100 Scotch acres in extent, dry at low water, but capable of being easily con- verted into a fine harbour. There is a lagoon of similar character, and of at least twice the extent, at Tressness. About one-third of the land is waste and heathy, and the rest either forms good natural pasture or is under cultivation. The soil is very various, but for the most part is a fertile mixture of mould and sand. There are several of the ancient buildings called Picts' houses. The real rental in 1841 was £2,203. Population in 1831,858; in 18G1, 1,122. Houses, 177. Tbis parish is in the presbytery of North Isles, and synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl of Zetland. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £4 8s. The parish church was rebuilt about 24 years ago, and is amply commodious. There are in Sanday a Free church, and an United Presbyterian church; and the sum laised in connexion with the former in 1865 was £97 13s. S^d. There is one parochial scimol foi- the three parishes of Sanday; and the salaiy attached to it is now £40. There is a Society's school in the district of Sellibister in Lady parish. There is a lighthouse on Start-point. See Start. LADYBANK, a post-office village in the parish of Collessie, Fifeshire. It is situated about a mile north of Kingskettle, and 5 miles south-west of Cupar. It was formerly called Ladybog, and was a mere linen-weaving village on the allotment principle; but it has acquired importance from be- ing the point at which the main trunk of the Edin- burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway forks into the two branches toward respectively Perth and Dundee. Here is a depot of the railway for engines and car- riages; and in the vicinity are a meal mill and a sandstone quarry. Population, 376. LADY- BAY, a small bay on the north coast of the parish of Kirkcolm, in Wigtonshire. LADY-BURN, a brook which rises in the parish of Monimail, and flows 3 miles south-eastward to a junction witli the Eden, at the east side of the town of Cupar, in Fifeshire. It traverses the northern suburbs of that town, and contributes materially to the town's cleanliness and cheert'ulness. LADY-CRAIG. See Andrews (St.). LADY-GLEN. See Dailly. LADY- ISLE, an uninhabited rocky islet, in the parish of Dundonald, Ayrshire. It lies in the bay of Ayr, 2 miles soutli-west of Troon-point, 5J miles north-west by north of Ayr pier, and 5^ miles south- south-west of the mouth of Irvine-water. Its length southward is 3^ furlongs; and its breadth is ^ of a mile. Importance attaches to it on account of its affording, in the large open bay in which it lies, and along a great extent of coast from Galloway to Fair- ley-roads unprovided with harbour or anchorage for large vessels, the only place of shelter from westerly winds. See Lappoch. LADYKIRK, a parish, containing the post-office station of Ladykirk, the post-office village of Horn- dean, and the village of Upsetlington, on the south- eastern border of Berwickshire. It is bounded on tbe south-east by the Tweed, which divides it from England, and on other sides by the parishes of Cold- stream, Swinton, Whitsome, and Hutton. Its length north-eastward is 4 miles ; and its greatest breadth is 2J miles. The surface rises gently from the Tweed, and is diversified with a few swells, but, in general, is level and fertile. About one-fourth is disposed in perennial pasture, and devoted by a deed of entail to the gi-azing of a highly valued variety of short-horned cattle. About 50 or 60 acres are covered with trees. All the rest of the area is cropped in the most approved methods of husbandry. A white micaceous sandstone lies beneath a large pai't of the surface, and a reddish sandstone occurs in the west; but they are nowhere quarried. The Tweed rolls the full flood of its beauty in a thrice- repeated curve 3 miles along the boundary; and is stationed-offin several places for its salmon-fisheries. On its opposite bank stands Xorham-castle. Pre- vious to the erection of Berwick-bridge — built ap- parently in the reign of Elizabeth — a ford at this place oiten gave passage across the river to armies of invasion, and occasionally pointed out spots in the vicinity as convenient scenes of international conference and negociation. Holywell-haugh, an adjacent field, was the place of meeting between Edward I. and the Scottish nobles, to adjust the dis- pute respecting the succession to tbe crown of Scot- land. The parish-cburcl), situated near the river, was, in the reign of Mary, the scene of a treaty LADYKIRK. 280 LAGGAN. concluded bv commissioners, and supplementary to that of Chiiteaii-Cambrensls. James IV., when crossing the ford at the head of his army, was in hazard of being swept away by tlie swollen current, and vowed, if he should be delivered, to l)uild a church in honour of ' Our Lady.' The erection which sprang up in fulfilment of his vow, was called Ladvkirk, and, usurping the place of the more ancient parochial church, imposed its name on the parish. Ladylcirk-house, in the south-east comer, on the Tweed, is the only mansion ; and the proprie- tor of it is the principal Lmdownei'. The (.stimnted yearly value of raw produce in 1834 was £ll,o;;u. "Assessed property in 18G5, £6,851 2s. lid. Popula- tion in 1831, 485; in 1861, 564. Houses, 119. This parish is in tiie presbj'tery of Cliirnside, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown. iStipcnd. £170 16s. 2d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary is now £60, with about £13 fees. The parish clinrch was built in 1500, and contains about 300 sittings. It was originally a handso-ne cruci- form Gothic edifice, but has been utterly disfigured by modern alterations and additions. Thei'e is an United Presbyterian church at Horndean. The present parish of Ladykirk comprehends the ancient parishes of Upsetlington or Ladykirk on the south, and Horndean on the north. The Ibrmer was an- ciently a rectory ; and the latter belonged, till the Keformation, to the monks of Kelso. Robert Byset, who obtained, during the 12th centurj% the manor of Upsetlington, founded, in the reign of David I., an hospital at Horndean, dedicated it to St. Leonard. and gave it, with its pertinents, to the monks of Kelso, obliging them to maintain two paupers on tlie foundation, and to suppoit an officiate in the hospital chapel. At a place still called Chapel-park, a little north of Upsetlington, are faint traces of an ancient building, — either the hospital, or some other ecclesiastical edifice. In the vicinity are three fountains, graced with modern pillars, inscribed respectively with the names of St. Mary's, the Monk's, and the Nun's well. LADYKIRK, a parish in the island of Stronsay, in Orkney. It comprises the south-western limb of that island ; and is washed on the north by Linga sound, and on the east by Rousholm bay. Its lensith north-north-eastward is 4 miles; and its greatest breadth is upwards of 1^ mile. Population in 1831, 274; in 1851, 356. Houses, 66.— This parish is now comprehended in the united parishes of Stronsay and Eday. See Stronsay. LADYKIRK, a locality adjacent to Duncansby, formerly the site of a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the parish of Canisbay, Caithness-shire. LADYKIRK, an estate on which stand the re- mains of a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the parish of Monkton, in Ayrshire. LADYKIRK, or Northkirk, a parish, containing the village of Northkirk, or Pierwall, and comprising the northern part of the island of Westra}^ in Ork- ney. Its length south-south-westward is 6J miles ; and its greatest breadth is 3h miles. Population in 1831, 834; in 1851, 993. Houses, 193.— This parish now forms part of the united parish of Westray and Papa Westray. See Westieay. LAD YL AND. See KiLP.inNiE. LADYLOAN. See Arbroath. LADY'S-ROCK. See Lismoke. LADY'S-WELL, or Ladywell, any well which was formerly dedicated to the Virgin Mary, or any locality containing such well, and named from it. The name was very common in Roman Catholic limes, and is still retained in a number of places, particularly Aboj-ne, Airth, Alloa, Avoch, Balniarino, Bedrule, Daviot in Aberdeenshire, Falkland, Glas- gow, Glenisla, Grange in Banffshire, Kincardine in Ross-shire, Marnoch, Stow, Traquair, and White- kirk. LADY-YESTER'S. See EDiNBanan. LAG, or Lagg, a Gaelic word, used both as a name and as a prefi.x in Scottish topographical no- menclature. It signifies a small round hollow plain. The plural of it is Laggan. LAG, or Lagg. See Dukscore, Kilmokie, Ard- NAMURCiiAN, and Keills. LAGAMHULIN, a small bay on the south-eafjt coast of the Island of Islay, 4i miles noith-east ol Port- Ellen, Argylcshire. LAGANALLACHY. See Duxkeld (Little). LAGGAN, a highland parish, comprising the south-west of the district of Badenoch, in Inverness- shire. It has a post-office of its own name, 1 1 miles from Kingussie. It is bounded on the south by Perthshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Kilmanivaig, Boleskine, and Kingussie. Its extent from north to south, and also from east to west, is about 22 miles; but only a tract of about 3 miles in breadth contains nearly all the inhabitants. The general surface is wildly and confusedly mountain- ous, consisting of a congeries of lofty, heathy, barren heights, of gloomy aspect, looking as if huddled to- gether, or heaped up summit on summit, yet plenti- fully intersected by corries, ravines, narrow glens, the beds of lakes, and the upper part of the valley of the Spey. The uplands, for the most part, are "dis- mal to the eye, and of very small economical value: but the inhabited parts, together with the hill slopes adjacent to them, are pleasant and beautiful, com- paratively fertile in soil, and aff'ording some noble expanses of picturesque scenery. The central Gram- pians, overhanging Loch-Ericht, are on the southern border; the Monadhleadh mountains, in their alpine heights ai'onnd the sources of the Spey, are on the nor- thern border; and the mountains which flank Loch- Laggan, and form the watershed between Badenoch and Lochaber, are on the west. The interesting fea- tures of scenery and objects of locality are very nu- merous, but nearly all will be found noticed in our articles Ardverikie, Cluny, Garviemore, Monadh- leadh, Benalder, Ericut (Loch), Laggan (Loch). Glentruim, Badenoch, Spey, and Invernkss-shike Thousands of springs rise among the uplands, form- ing considerable bi'ooks; and these are ever liable to be suddenly swollen by heavy rain-falls, into vo- luminous torrents. Those in the south find their way through Loch-Ericht to the Tay; those in the central parts of the west run into Loch-Laggan, to form the efflux of the Spean ; and all the rest are headstreams of the Spey, the remotest of them being the nascent Spey itself, coming in from the nortli- east corner of Lochaber. Metamorphic rocks of tlie gneiss kind predominate in the mountains; a bed of excellent limestone lies in the valley of the Spey; and slate of inferior quality is found. The soil in the lower valleys is alluvial, and in some places has a depth of ten or twelve feet. The landowners are Baillie of Kingussie, Macpherson of Cluny, and Mac- pherson of Glentruim. The mansions are Cluny- eastle, Glentruim -house. Falls- of- Truim- house, Ardverikie, and Glenshirra-house. On a rock of the ridge which separates Glenshirra from Strath- mashie, at an altitude of at least 600 feet above tlie level of the adjacent valley, are considerable remains of an ancient fortification, with walls upwards of nine feet thick, built of large flags or broad stones, without mortar. The parish is touched by the great road from Inverness to Perth, and traveised by the roads thence from Fort- Augustus and Fort-William. Population in 1831, 1,196; in 1861, 986. Houses, 208. Assessed property in 1860, £7,942. LAGGAN-BAY. 281 LAMBANESS. This parisli is in the presbytery of ALevtarfF, and synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Duke of Riclimond. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d.; glebe, £14. Schoohnaster's salar)', is £52 10s. The parish church was built in 1842, and contains about 500 sittings. It is sit- uated on the Spey, in the lower part of the parish, within 2 miles of Cluny-castle. There is a Free church of Laggan, with an attendance of 220; and the amount of its receipts in 1855 was £128 17s. OJd. Tliere is a Ro:nan Catholic chapel, on a prominent site in Glenshirra. The ancient chiu:ch of Laggan is supposed to have been dedicated to St. Kenneth. The ruins of it are still to be seen at the head of Loch-Laggan, 7 miles west of the present church. Mrs. Grant, who lived many years in the manse of Laggan as the wife of the parish minister, and who died at Edinburgh in 1838, is far known to fame as the writer of several popular works on the Highlands and Highlanders. LAGGAN-BAY, a bay on the east side of Loch- indaal, in the island of Islaj'. It measnres nearl_y 5 miles across the mouth, but does not penetrate the land to a greater extent than about 2 miles. It is flanked on the south side by the Mull of Oa. LAGGAN-HILL, a picturesque conical hill in the south-east of the parish of Monivaird, Pertli- shire. It serves, with some other similar hills, to flank the north side of Strathearn, as an advanced guard to the background Grampians. LAGGAN (Loch), a lake on the south-west bor- der of Badenoch, Inverness-shire. It extends south- westward, with a length of about 8 miles, and a breadth of from 1 to 1^ mile, and discharges itself, by giving origin to the river Spean, on tlie north- east verge of Lochaber. Altl'.ough inferior in point of picturesque beauty to Loch-Arkeg, Loch-Lag- gan, among the Inverness-shire lakes, is a beautiful expanse of water; and the surrounding mountains are not deficient either in varietj^ of oudine, or in g:randeur of form. Its shores are deeply indented, the hills in some places throwing out long narrow promontories, while in other places the loch dips in graceful bays over sandy flats. It is consequently impossible for the eye to catch more than a section of the loch at one view. The largest of numerous torrents flowing into Loch-Laggan is the Pattaig, which descends from the Benakler forest, and runs into the loch with an ample current confined for some short distance betwixt grey precipitous rocks, but making its escape from this gorge by sweeping- over a ledge of rock, with a fall of 8 or 10 feet, in a broad and alnrost unbroken stream. Tradition has been busy with Loch-Laggan and its shores, ns with almost eveiy lake or mountain in the Highlands. In early ages its beauty, or the game with wliich its mountains abounded, attracted royalt)'. " Fer- gus, the first of our kings," long prior to the time when the castle of Inverlochy became a ro3-al resi- dence, made this lake and its mountains the scene of his amusements. Here, or in the near neighbour- hood. Prince Caai'les Edward both made the first movements of his enterprise of 1745, and lay a-hid- ing after his discomfiture at Culloden. And here, in recent years, the present royal family of Great Britain made an autumnal sojourn. See Laggan, Pattaig (The), Ericht (Loch), and Akdvkkikie. LAGGAN (Loch), a lake, about 1^ mile long, formed by the expansion of the rivulet Evlix, in the eastern part of the parish of Cviech, in Sutherland- shire. LAGGAN-POINT, a headland flanking Locli- Buy, near the middle of the south-east side of the island of Mull. Here is a cavern, called Odin's cave, 300 feet in length, from 20 to 45 feet in breadth, ftnd. over great part of its extent. 120 feet in height. A narrow, difficult passage from one point of it? interior descends to another cave, 150 feet long, 12 broad, and 24 high. In the vicinity of the headland are two small ancient chapels. LAGGAN-ULVA, a landing place on the west coast of the island of Mull, serving as the most con- venient point of communication with Staifa and lona. LAGGAVOULIN, a small post-office village, 4 miles north-cast of Port-Ellen, on the soutlf-east coast of the island of Islay. LAGLEY. See Fergus (St.). LAHICH (Loch). See Kilfiniche.v. LAIGHTOWN. See Fenwick. LAIGHWOOD, a barony, belonging to the Atliole famiiv, in the parisli of Liunie, Perthsliire. L .\ INSH AW. See Ste warton. LAIRDMANNOCH (Linn of), a waterfall, or rather series of waterfalls, in the middle of the course of the rivulet Tarf, in Kirkcudbrightshire. It can be all seen at one view, and, during a freshet, is very picturesque. See Take (The). LAIRG, a parish, containing a small post-office village of its own name, in the centre of the south of Sutherlandshire. It is bounded by Farr, Rogart, Criech, Assynt, and Edderachyllis. Its length south-eastward is about 25 miles, and its greatest breadth is about 12 miles. It is intersected, through the greater part of its length, along its centre, by Loch-Shin, and by the upper part of the river Sliin. See Shin (Locn), and Shin (The). A lofty line of watershed forms nearl)- all its boundary, except over small distances at its ends. The summit of Ben- clybric, the loftiest land in Sutherlandshire, having an altitude of about 3,200 feet above sea-level, is on its northern boundary. Its other heights have a great variet)' of altitude, and they decline generally to the central belt of water; yet those on the north side of that belt are intersected by two considerable glens, called Glen-Figach and Strath-Fyvie. There are about 20 small lakes. Granite and trap are the prevailing rocks; but a large bed of limestone oc- curs at the side of Loch-Shin. A mossy soil is very prevalent; yet the soil of some of the arable land is loamy and fertile. A lai'ge proportion of the surface formerly in tillage, is now sheep pasture. A number of tumuli at a place called Knock-a-chath, are said to be the memorials of a battle between the Sutherlands and the Macka3'S. The parish is traversed up the centre by the road from Inverness to Scourie and to Tongue. The village of Lair-r stands on that road, near the foot of Loch-Shin, !1 miles north-north- west of Bonar-Bridge. Here is an excellent inn. Population of the village, 69. Houses, 16. Popu- lation of the parish in 1831, 1,04'; in IStil, ciai .System," is also well-known in the parish, from his having been tlie manager and part-proprietor of the New-Lanark works, where he made an abortive at- tempt to intioduce the practice of his S3'stt;ni. The famous talis:nan, called the Lee Penny, which was long in high superstitious repute for medicinal virtue, is preserved at Lee-castle. It is a small triangularly shaped stone, of what kind lapidaries are unable to determine, and is set in a silver coin whicli, from the appearance of a cross upon it, is supposed to be a shilling of Edward I. It has been in the possession of the Lockharts of Lee since the days of Robert the Bruce. It figures wondrously on some great occasions for alleged cures done by it; and it is finely introduced by Sir Walter Scott in his novel of The Talisman. Population of the par- ish in 1831, 7,672; in 18G1, 7,891. Houses, 1,008. This parish is the seat of a presbytery, in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr. I'atron, the Ciown. Stipend, £333 3s. 8d.; trlebe, £15. Unappropriated teinds. £601 3s. lOd. The parish church was built in 1777, and repaired in 1834. There is a chapel of ease, called St. Leonard's, which is under the patron- age of the male heads of families ; and the number of sittings in this and in the parish church, is 1,800. There is a Free church, containing ,520 sittings; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £213 Os. ll^d. Theie are two United Presbyterian cliurches, re- spectively in Broomgate and "in Hope-street; and the number of sittings in them jointly is 1,750. Tliere are also, in the town, an Episcopalian chapel and a Roman Catholic chapel, and in New Lanaik, an Independent chapel. The principal school is the burgh or grammar school. This tbrmerly enjoyed a high celebrity, and is still a most respectable semi- nary, conducted by a rector and an assistant. Salarv of the rector, £40, with about £40 fees and £20 other emoluments; salary of the assistant, £20. Connected with this school are 28 bursaries, of vari- ous value, but most of them simply discharging school-fees, and leaving a surplus of £2 or £3. There are also Mrs. AVilson's charity school, for fifty poor children, a well-managed subscription scliool, the Lanark educational institution, a ragged school, St. Leonard's school, and a number of private schools. The ancient parish church of Lanark was dedi- cated to St. Kentigem, the founder of the episcopate of Glasgow, and the patron saint ; but it does not appear atwhat time, or by whom, it was erected, although it is known to have been in existence at the_ beginning of the 12th centmy. The large bell, which swung in it for centuries, and was afterwcxrds renidved to the present parochial chm'ch. had upon it three several dates, one of them so tar back aa 1110. This old church, the ruins of which, now sadly dilapidated, stand about a quarter of a mile south- east from the town, was an elegant Gothic build- ing of hewn stone, divided in the middle from end to end, by a wall supported upon pillars, forming five or six fine arches. This church, with its tithes and pertinents, v.-as granted by David I., in 1150, to tlie monastery which he had previously founded at Dryburgh; and it continued to belong to that mon- astery till tlie Reformation. At Cleghorn, in the upper part of the parish, there existed in the twelfth century a chapel, which also belonged to the cau oiis of Dryburgii. On the lands of East Nemphlar a chapel, the ruins of which were recently extant, was erected by the Templars, ^yithin the town .1 chapel was dedicated to St. Nicholas, which at one time contained four different altars. One of these was dedicated to the Virgin, and called ' Our Lady's altar;' another was consecrated to the holy blood of our Saviour, and called the ' Haly bluid altar;' a third was dedicated to St. Catherine; and a fourth to St. Michael. About half a-mile east of the town stood St. Leonard's hospital, in connection with which a chapel was founded, which served not only the hospital, but the people upon the estates which supported it. Several of these chapels were well- enilowed; and it may be mentioned, in particular, that Stephen Lockhart of Cleghorn granted in mort- main the place of Clydesholm, with the profits arising from the passage-boat upon the Clyde, for the support of a chaplain at the altar of St. Cather- ine, in St. Nicholas chapel, at Lanark; and tliis grant was confirmed by the King in 1491. The lands attached to St. Leonard's were, after the Re- formation, formed into a parish of the same name; but by act of parliament in 1609, St. Leonard's kirk, with the greater portion of the territory belonging to it, was incorporated with the parish of Lanark, and the edifice fell into ruins. Almost all the cha- pels in the parish having been ruined by the fer- ment of the Reformation, and the lands and tithes having pnssed into various hands, the old parish- church of St. Kentigern remained the principal, if not the only place of worship in the parish. In February, 1589-90, the presbytery, taking this mat- ter into consideration, resolved that " the kirk of Lanark should be removed from the auld place to a situation within the town:" yet this kirk, in the " auld place," though fast going to ruin, continued to be regarded as the parish church till the present edifice iu the town was erected in 1777; and the inhabitants of the town were for some time ob- liged to attend public worship in the chapel of St. Nicholas, which had passed into the hands of the magistrates, at the time of the Reformation. LANARK, a post and market town, a royal burgh, and the capital of tlie upper ward of Lanark- shire, is situated in 55° 34' north latitude, and 3° o' west longitude, 25 miles south-east by east of Glas- gow, 31 south-west of Ediuljurgh, 35 south by east of Stirling, and 47 north-east by east of Ayr. lis site is a beautiful slope of ground, about half a mi!o from the right bank of the Clyde, about 300 feet above the level of the nearest part of that river, and about 650 feet above the level of the sea. It is be- lieved to have been originally a Roman station, and, at all events, is a town of great antiquity. It was, in early times, a place of high mark ; and it continued, till last century, to be a town of much greater relative importance thau at present. A par- liament or assembly of the states was held in it, in 978, by Kenneth ll. ; and this is the first parliament mentioned in history. Lanark, both then, and pro- LANARK. 285 LANARK. bftWy at ct much earlier period, was I'egarded as a royal town. Malcolm IV., in granting a toft in it, speaks of it as in huryo meo; and his successor, William, mentions tlie tov.n in the same terms. Tlie erection of Lanark into a royal burgh took place in the reign of Alexander T. The burgli has also a charter from Robert I., dated at Linlithgow in the fourth year of liis reign ; another, without date, from Alexander III.; a tburth from the same king, in the ].3th year of his reign; a fifth and a sixth from James Y. ; and a final one, confirmatory of all the rest, from Charles I., learing date 20th IJebruary 1632. In the reign of David II., Lanark had attained such importance thnt it was enacted by a parliament lield at Perth in 1348, that while the burghs of Eermck and Roxburgh continued in tlje possession of the English, tlie burghs of Lanark and Linlithgow should be admitted in their place, as members of the court of four burghs. A royal castle also stood at Lanai-k, on a small artificially shaped hill, on the side of the town toward the river, at the foot of the street called Castle-gate, and still beaiing the nanie of the Castle-hill. Tin's edifice is ascribed by tradition to David I. It was tlie place from wliicli William the Lion, in 1197, dated liis charter in favour of the town of Ayr. It was also mortgaged as part of the security for the jointure of the niece of King Pliilip of France in the negotia- tion, in 129S, for the marriage between her and the son and heir of John Baliol. History records like- wise that, in the 13th ceiituiy, this castle was in the military possession of the English. In the neigli- boui-hood, too, there are places which, even to this day, bear names which seem distinctly to indicate that this was once a residence of royalty, — such as King-son's-knowe, King-son's-moss. and King- son's-stane. All vestiges of the castle, however, have entirely disappeared. The town of Lanark, in its present form, consists principally of one main line of street, bearing the names of High-street and Westport, with several smaller streets or lanes diverging on eitlier side. It was long a place of rude, antique appearance, bear- ing the character of a "finished town," with a large proportion of its houses in the thatched cot- tage form, which so generally prevailed in the old Scottish towns in the last century. But, since about the year 1824, many of the houses have been re- built in a somewhat handsome fashion, insomuch as to give great part of the town a renovated and com- paratively spruce appearance. The paiish cliurch occupies a prominent position, nearly in the centre of the town ; and, in a niclie, over its eastern door, stands a colossal statue of Sir William Wallace cut by the sculptor Forrest. The Roman Catholic clia- pel, built in 1858-9. at a cost of about £15.000, is a cruciform Gothic edifice, with a tower, and contains some rich sculptural decorations. The other most noticeable buildings are the Clydesdale hotel, the principal inn, and the property of a company of shaieholders; tlie beautiful building erected by the Commercial bank, for the accommodation of their branch here ; and the county-buildings, containing the county-offices in front, and the jail for the upper ward behind. The last is a very chaste and grace- ful structure, built in the Grecian style. tl;e founda- tion-stone of wliieh was laid in March, 1834, and the erection completed in 1836. Previous to this, the old prison of Lanark excited the derision of every one, from its being such an exact representa- tiiMi of a small Scotch burghal prison of the olden time, where neither criminal nor debtoi' was found to remain longer witliin its walls than suited his own convenience. ^lany of the shops in the prin- oiual street have a tasteful and rich appearance. The town is lighted with gas prepared at a Mork erected in 1832, at a place called Steel's cross, in the western outskirts. It is also well supplied with water. And, altogether, it is a pleasant, quiet, liealthful, rural town, agreeable as a place of resi- dence, and attracting many summer tourists fiom its proximity to the falls of Clyde. A princi])al industrial occupation is liandloom weaving. This employs aliout 900 persons, but af- fords them a very inadequate subsistence. Shoe- making employs about lOo persons, and is in a com- paratively llourisliing condition. Handicrafts, of all the kinds usual in towns, employ a full comple- ment of persons, both for the town itself, and for the surrounding country. There are thiee brewer- ies, in which business is done to some extent; and three mills for grinding flour, cbieily for the supply of the town and neighbourhood. Upwards of 100 females are employed in flowering or embroidering lace. Weekly markets are held on Tuesday and Saturday ; and there arc seven annual fairs. — ^one of which, on the last Wednesday of May, old style, is for black cattle, — one, on the last Wednesday of July, for horses and lambs,— and one in October, on the Friday after tlie Falkirk tryst, is for horses and black cattle. There are offices of the Commercial Bank, the Royal Bank, and the City of Glasgow bank. There are also a savings' bank, eight iiisiu'ance agencies, a mechanii's' insti- tution, a subscription library, a horticultural society, and several religious and benevolent institutions. A newspaper, called the Lanarkshire Advertiser, is ]mblislied monthly. Besides the principal inn, the Clydesdale, which has an elegant assembly room connected with it, there are the Commercial hotel, the Meal Market hotel, and the Black Bull. Omni- buses run from the Clydesdale hotel to the Lanark branch railway, which connects it with the Caledo- nian at the Cleghorn junction. The day after Whit- sunday fair is held as a grand gala day, in the old custom of riding the marches of the burgh, and in horse and footraces, with other sports, on the burgh moor. Till about 45 years ago, another great an- nual festivity, which had been observed from time immemorial, was a Candlemas public procession of the scholars of the grammar school. The iTiling charter of the burgh, that of Charles I., has been lost ; but the instrument of sasine is among the records of the town. From the precept of sasine the charter appears to have conveyed or confirmed to the burgh large landed propert}', which is particularly described. A considerable portion of this property is alienated, but a large portion still remains. By the charter— besides the usual privi- leges of a royal burgh in regard to fairs and cus- toms—there is granted a right of sherifiship within the ten-itory of "the burgh. There is also specially renewed a grant of Queen Mary made to the royal burghs, and each of them, ''Fro auxilio sv.orum hur- gorvm et svsfevtatwne eorum inmi«trcrrum, et paupc- 7-iim," of the rents, altarages, and chapels within the liberties of the burglis. Further, there are granted to the provost, bailies, councillors, and community of the burgh certain lands, gardens, houses, tofts, &c. within the burgh, which had le- longed to the preaching friars, and certain altar- ages, named and described, with the right and pa- tronage and presentation of the hospital of St. Leonar.l, for the benefit of the poor within the burgh. In 1831, the gross yearly value of the burgh property was £25,784, and" the amount of debt was £8,027." Almost all this debt had been contractea subsequently to the beginning of the present century ; but since 1831 the affairs of the burgh have been under better management, so that they have yiehled LANARK. 286 LANARKSHIRE. an immovinj^ rerenue. In 1 83 l,tlio revenue was £927 18s. S'.Jd.; in 1839, it was £1,158; in 1864, it was about £1,041. Tlie burgh is goveiiied by a pro- vost, three bailies, and nine couiicillois. A burgh court is held by the magistrates for the town ; and sheriff" courts, counnissary courts, and justicc-of- peaco courts, are held by the county authorities for the upper ward of tiie county. For more tlian two centuries, the keeping of the weiahts and measures for Scotland was committed to the care of the town of Lanark. The old act of the 20th June, 1617, bears, '" in respect that the keeping and outgiving of the weights of old to the burrows and others, &c. was committed to tlie burgh of Lanark," the '■ care of tlie weights" should be again intrusted to it. These olden national standards ai-e still preserved, and bear the arms of the burgh, viz. a spread eagle with two heads. Lanark miites with Airdrie, Ha- milton, Ealkirk, and Linlithgow, in returning a member to parliament. Municipal constitueiicj' in 18o5, 223; parliamentary constituency, 223. Popu- lation of the royal burgh in 1831, 4^266; in 1861, .'j,384. Houses, 730. Population of the parliamen- tary burgh in 1861, 5,047. Houses, 672. Lanark is celebrated in Scottish history, espe- cially in the chronicles of Fordun and Blind Harry, as the scene of the first exploits of Sir William Wal- lace. The accounts of these are somewhat obscure ; but the popular tradition is, that the insolence and oppression of tlie English sheriff of Lanarkshire, William de Hesliope, having become insupportable, Wallace joined or instigated a rising of his country- men, and put the obnoxious sheriff to death in the town of Lanark. The time of this occurrence is laid in 1297. Blind Harry relates that Wallace, having married a lady of the name of Braidfoot, the heiress of Lamington, lived with her privately at Lanark, and that while there he and his friends raised a scuffle in the street with a body of Englishmen. The patriot, having been overpowered, fled first to his own house and then to Cartland Craigs, upon which the sheriff, Hesliope or Hesilrig, seized his wife, and put her to death. In revenge, Wallace gathered a party of his friends, attacked Hesliope in the night, and killed him and 240 of his band. Tradition says that the house in which W^allace re- sided was at the head of the Castlegate, opposite the church ; and that a private vaulted archway led from this house to Cartland Craigs ; but the latter part of this statement is manifestly wild fiction. The English continued to hold the castle and the town till 1310, but then surrendered them to King Robert Bruce. Lanark is next noticed in historj' iri connection with the Covenanters, who. on 12th January, 1682, entered the town, and affixed a de- claration to the market-cross, denouncing Charles 11., as perjured, exconnnunicating him, and re- nouncing their allegiance. For this bold deed the privy council fined the town in 6,000 merks, and is- sued processes against the landed proprietors, for not having seized the insurgents, or prevented the indignity which they luid oflered to the King. Wil- liam Hervie and some other persons were soon after executed for their participation in publishing the Lanark declaration, or for having been present at the battle of Bothwell Bridge. Hervie's grave is still pointed out in the churchyard. Lanark gives the title cf Estrl to the ducal house of Hamilton. William, the second Uuke, who died of the wounds he received at the battle of Worcester, was created Earl of Lanark in 1639. LANAIiK (New), a large manufacturing village in the parish of Lanaik. It stands on the right bank of the Clyde, about a mile south-south-west of the town of Lanark. Its site is low ground, con- tiguous to the river, about J a mile below Corra-linn, within view of that romantic waterfall, and of the fall of Dundaff, and is completely surrounded by steep and beautifully woorled liills. It is a hand- some place in itself, as well as most superbly en- vii'oned, and at the same time is one of the healthi- est seats of manufacture in Scotland, clean, airy, and of rural aspect. Its chief features are cotton- spinning factories, which cither directly fir indirectly employ all its inluibitants. It was founded in 1784, by the well-known David Dale, who feued a piece oi' ground for it from the Lord Justice-Clerk, Brax- field. Its site, at that time, was little else than a morass in a shidvingd.il; but it appeared to Mr. Dale very eligible for liis puijiose, by diverting the waters of the Clyde into a power for the moving of machinery. The first mill was begun in 1785, and a subterraneous passage of about 300 feet in length was hewn through a rocky mount for the purpose of an aqueduct. The height of the fall of water is 28 feet. In 1788 a second mill was built, and was nearly roofed in, when the first was totally con- sumed by an accidental fire; but it speedily rose fioni its ashes, and was rebuilt and ready for the machinery in 1789. After that time various exten- sions were made till the village assumed the bulk and bustle of a small town. Mr. Dale, as part-pro- prietor and manager, was succeeded by his son-in- law, Mr. Eobert Owen, whose visionary notions and projects for the regeneration of the social system ot mankind have made his name too notorious in the kingdom. He made vigorous trials of his social schemes here for a number of years, and was well seconded by a kindly appreciation on the part of the people; but, though winning from many of them permanent respect and attachment to his person, he eventually drew general ridicule and scorn upon his schemes; and, in 1827, he ceased to have any con- nection with the village. The factories then passed into other hands and under a superior management. Connected with them is a large school, called the institution. Population of the village, ],39t;. Houses, 278. LANAKKSHIRE, a large, wealthy, and impor- tant county in the Scottish Lowlands, — the most populous county in Scotland. It is bounded on the north, by the counties of Dumbarton and Stirling; on the east, by the counties of Linlithgow, Edin- burgh, and Peebles; on the south, by the county of Dumfries ; iind on the west, by the counties of Ayr and Renfrew. It lies in north latitude between 55° IS' 40" and 55° 56', and in west longitude between 3° 24' and 4° 22' 51". Its extreme length, from south-east to north-west, is about 54 miles; its breadth at the extremities is little more than 10 miles ; its greatest breadth, near the centre, is 33 miles; and its superficial area, according to the C)rd- nance Survey, is 889 square miles, or 568,867 statute acres. Hamilton of Wishaw says, " The shyre of Lanark was ancientlj- of greater extent than now it is ; for there was comprehended in it the whole sheriffdome of Ranfrew, lying laigher upon Clyde, called of old the Baronie of Ranfrew, (and is yett so designed when the Prince's titles are enumerate,) untill it was disjoyned therefra by King Eobert the Third, in anno 1402, at such time as he erected what had been his father's patrimonie before his accession to the Crown, in ane principalitie in favour of his sone Prince James. And then, because of the large- ness of its extent, it was divyded into two wainis, called the Upper and the Kether waird ; and the burgh of Lanark declared to be the head-burgh of theUpperwaird, andRutherglenof the Nether waird: and since the dissolving of the shire of Ranfrew from the sherifl'dome of Lanark, the burgh of Lan- LANARKSHIEE. 287 LANARKSHIRE. ark is the head- burgh of tlie slieiiffiloine of Lanark, and Kutherglen the head-lnirph of tlie Nether waird thereof." Other accounts affirm that the disjunc- tion of Renfrew from Lanarksliire did not take place till the reign of James II. But whatever was tlie date of that disjunction, Lanarkshii'e, in its dimin- ished extent, continued to form two wards till the middle of the last century ; and then, in consequence of the increase of its population, it was divided into three wards, Upper, Middle, and Lower. Lanark continued to be the political capital of the upper ward; Hamiltou was constituted the political capi- tal of the middle ward; and Glasgow was substituted for Rutberglen as the political capital of the lower ward. The superficial area of the upper ward, ac- cording to an old admeasurement, is 277,246 .Scotch acres; of the middle ward, 153,954: Scotch acres; of the lower ward, 40,078 Scotch acres. The boundary lines of the upper half of the county are very nearly coincident with tlie mountain-rim of the basin of the Clyde, and of all that river's early tributaries. The lower half of the county also is traversed nearly through its centre by the Clyde, and is bounded, to a considerable aggregate extent, by the watersheds at the sources of its tributnries; yet it both receives some trivial streams from the contiguous counties, and discharges some others into these counties; and, around its lower extremity, comprising most of the lower ward, it contains but a small breadth of the Clyde's basin, and has no great aggregate extent of naturrtl boundary. Its surface, in a general view, might be topographically d'stributed into the two districts of upland and low- land. The upland district, however, at least in the mountainous sense, is nearly all comprised in the tracts drained by the head-streams of the Clyde, con- stituting about one-half or two-thirds of the upper ward. The principal summits are the Lowthers on or near the boundary with Dumfrios-sliire, which have altitudes of from 2,450 feet to 3.100 fict above the level of the sea. And among the other most noticeable summits are Culterfell, which hns an alti- tude of 2,330 feet; Tinto, 2,236 feet; Cairntable, on the boundarv with Ayrshire, 1,630 feet; Dolphiiiton hill, 1,550 feet; and Dunsyre hill, 1,230 feet. The lowland district has much diversity of hill and dale; but, in a general view, down to nearly the lower extremity of the middle ward, it comprises a grand hollow or trough traversed by the Clyde, and graduated flanks which rise upward with diversified contour, and spread finally away into moorland. And, along its south-western side it is so free fiom elevated features, and lies so open in its view toward Ayrshire and the frith of Clyde, that from almost any piece of vantage ground i50 feet or more above the level of the sea, a spectator may descry, on a clear day, the serrated peaks of the island of Arran, at a distance of .50 miles. Nearly all the character- istic scenery of the county will be found incidentally noticed in our articles Clyde, Avox, and Douglas. The upper ward, though so much more extensive than either of the other wards, is compaiatively far less valuable. Its uplands occupy a very large jjroportion of its area, and are in a main degree little else than poor pasture or waste moorland, with 'hills on hills confusedly hurled.' Yet, though In- far the larger portion of this ward is uncultivated, and cannot be deemed capable of much agricultural improvement, there are sunny and fertile spots be- tween, which are at once pleasing to the e3'e. and profitable to the agriculturist. Even in the wildest parts of the upper ward, those verdant holms stretch to a considerable extent along both banks of the Clyde and its tributaries; and where they are adorned with new plantation, or dotted with old timber, the landscape is one of surpassing loveliness. Many of the hills are covered with verdure to the summit; and the quality of the sheep, which arc reared upon them, speaks intelligibly of the richness of the pastures. Nevertheless, the general aspect of the district is sterile and uninviting; and the liiftiness and stc n grandeur which characterize even the bleakest of the Highland mountains are unknown to the hills of Lanarkshire. Mr. Naismith, describ- ing this part of the county in 1794, says, " The mountains are so huddled together, that their grandeur is lost to the eye of a beholder. When he traverses a hollow, only the sides of the nearest mountain are presented to his view; and when he climbs an eminence, he sees nothing but a confused group of iT.gged tops, with the naked rock fre- quently appearing among the herbage." But as the hills undulate towards the lower part of the ward, tlieir aspect is much softened, and the country inescnts ever\' alternation of sylvan sweet- ness, with hill and dale, wood and wold, meadow and streamlet. The scenery of various localities, in the upper ward, is well known from this cause to tourists: of whicli the Falls of Clyde, near the town of Lanark, is not the least interesting portion. Thei-e is no part of Scotland in which industry, perseverance, and the lights of science, as appli- cable to agriculture, have more successfully de- veloped themselves than in the upper ward; where native sterility has been overcome by the improved practice and increased knowledge of the husband- man. Along the great line of road from Glasgow to Carlisle, in particular, smiling arable farms have risen up, wb.ere 45 years ago, there was nothing but stinted herbage, unproductive moss, or luxuriant furze or heather. The middle wa;d, though predominantly lowl.uid, has a remarkable variety of contour. High hills occupy its south-west border; lofty moors occupy much of its north-east flank; and bold undulations. steep banks, and deep ravines, as well as the trough of the Clyde itself, diversify its centre. Tery little of its surface is level, excepting belts of alluvial ground along the sides of the streams. Most of its arable land lies at an elevation of from 250 to 300 feet, or upward, above the level of the sea. Its soil is as various as its heights and undulations; but, in a general view, it is moss, more or less reclaimed, on the grounds farthest fi'om the Clyde, — clay inter- mixed with sand, on the slopes and undulations of the central parts, — and a rich alluvium, incumbent on gravel, on the low level tracts contiguous to the Clyde. The most fertile district is the central one. along both banks of the Clyde, from end to end o( the ward, measuring upwards of 12 miles in length, and nearly 6 miles in average bre'uith. The land- scape here is peculiarly soft and inviting. For all the elements of rural sweetness, the drive between Lanark and Bothwell is not equalled by any other in the kingdom, if we except perhaps that along the hanks of the Esk between Langholm and Langtown, on the Scotch and English border. The hills swell gently to a considerable elevation on either bank of the river, and generally are covered with either luxuriant pasture or tluiving copsewood to the smn- mit. The glades, too, generally present the bold front of some olden mansion, with its lieautit'ul polic}', studded by timber of anci-int growth, or the elegant modern dwelling of a projuietor, who has replaced it for the keep or tower which served as a dwelling-place to his fathers. Here. +oo, are the orchards which, in spring time and summer, are well designated the pride of Clydesdale. In the end of April, or beginning of Ma}', when the gcr- geous flush of blossom decks the trees, and the iier LAXARKSHIKE. 288 LANARKSHIRE. fume scents the gale, the traveller feels as if he \vere in re^Uity in the land of the Faery, where " apple-hlossom is strewn upon tlic wind." The lower ward, wliile nmcli smaller in extent than either of the other wards, is, at the same time, less interesting in its natural featixres. Its only considerahle height is the ridge of Dechmont and Cathkin, along tlie npper part of its southwest horder; and even this is rcmarkahle only for its contrast to the a'ljacent plains, and for sake of a grandly extensive view whicli it commands. Sonn- other parts of tlic ward might he called hilly, and many are diversified by breaks and undulations; hut others are quite level, and most, when regarded in the aggregate, are little else than outspread un- dulated valley. The soil, too, is exceedingly diver- sified, comprises a good deal of inoss or moor, and was. originally, in many of its arable tracts, either churlish or barren. Yet this ward, in consequence of enormous improvements upon its lands, and in consequence of the presence within it of the entei- piise, industry, and wealth of the city and environs of Glasgow, exhil)its generally a munificent appear- ance, great in fertility, high in ornament, and rich in the results of art. Market-gardens, however, do not press round the city here, to enrich the land- scape, as they do in the case of many comparatively smaller towns; for Glasgow depends, for its supply of vegetables, very largely upon its immense steam- boat trafiic with the coasts of Scotland and of Ireland. The river Clyde is so characteristically the chief stream of Lanarkshire as to give it popularly the names of Clydesdale and Strathclyde. This stream is not only the great drain of the country, but also, by the vast improvements which have been made upon its navigation, gives the lower ward all the same advantages of commerce as if it lay upon the coast, and liad safe, deep, sea liarbours. Into this river, likewise, with some A'ery trivial exceptions, ilow all the other streams of the county, the whole coining down to it either as head streams or as atliuents. Highest up are the Little Clyde, the Daer. the Elvan, the ^Midlock, the Camps, and the Glen- goimer, which inay all be regarded as head-streams. Next is the Duneaton, which rises near the highest point of the boundary with Ayrshire, and runs through the parish of Crawfordjohn to the Clyde, 2 miles below Abington. The Culter rises near the highest point of the boundary with Peebles-shire, and runs through the parish of Culter to the Clyde opposite Symington. The Xorth Medwin rises near the boundary with Edinburghshire, runs through the parish of Carnwath, and is joined by the South Medwin a little before falling into the Clyde. The Douglas rises near the sources of the Duneaton, adjacent to the boundary with Ayrshire, and pur- sues a grand course, through a district to which it gives the name of Doitglasdale, to a confluence with the Clyde a little above the falls of Bonniton. The Mouse, rising in Camwath, flows through Carstaiis into the parish of Lanark, winds through the ro- mantic glen of Cai-tland-craigs, and falls into the Clyde opposite Kirkfieldbank. The Nethan rises in liBsmahago, and after flowing through a most beau- tiful .listrict of country, studded with gentlemen's seats, joins the Clyde at Clydesgrove. The Avon ri.ses on the borders of Ayrshire, intersects the pansh of Avondale. enters Stonehouse, divides that parish from Glassford and from Dalserf, traverses a most romantic glen within the parish of Hamilton, and falls into the Clyde at Hamilton-bridge. The South Calder comes in from the moors of liinlithgowshire, runs between the parishes of Cambusnethan and Shotts, and proceeds thence to the Clyde, at a point J about a mile below the influx of the Avon. The North Calder rises at the boundary with Stirling- shire, and runs between the parishes of Shotts and Hothwell on its left bank, and those of New Monk- l.ind and Old Monkland on its right bank, to the Clyde at Daldowie. The Rotten Calder rises within i^ miles of the common boundary with Ayrshire and Renfj'ewshire. and runs through the pansh of East lvilb)'ide, and between the parishes of Blantyre and Camhuslang, to the Clyde at Turnwheel. The Kelvin, sf) far as connected with Lanarkshire, runs chieliv along its north-western boundary, but also tiavers'S a small wing of the county, between Govan parish and the Barony parish of Glasgow, to a junction with the Clvde opposite the town of Govan. Lanarkshire is little celebrated for its lakes. The Crane -loch, about a mile in circumference, is situated in a wild bleak district in the parish oi Dunsyre, at an elevation of 800 feet above the level of the adjacent streams. The White-loch, also about a mile in circumference, is situated in Carnwatli, and is fringed on two sides by some fine tiaber. Lang-loch, situated between the town of Lanark and Hyndford-bridge, is a sluiet of water of con- siderable length, though remarkabl)'' narrow, Bishop's-loch covers between SO and 90 acres in the parish of Old Monkland; Woodend-loch, 50 acres; and Lochend-loch, 40 acres. Lam-loch is a large sheet of water in the parish of Cadder; here is also Loch-Grog, of shialler extent, and gradually be- coming less, from the process of draining. Thei'c are also Robroystonloch, which is rapidly under- going the same process; Johnston-loch, nearly a mile in circumference; and Gastinqueen-loch, of less extent. There ai'e the Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs in the Barony-parish, the water from which turns the wheels of the town mills; and there is an ni'tificial lake, or reservoir, with an area of upwards of 300 acres, in the parishes of Shotts and New Monkland, formed for giving supply to the Monk- land canal and the Forth and Clyde canal. These canals themselves are much more interesting than all the lakes together, and figure almost as pro- minently as the Clyde in the hydrography of the county. The Monkland canal connects Glasgow with the great mineral field of the Monklands, and was of vast moment to that city, for heavy tratlic, ju'evious to the formation of the railways. The Forth and Clyde canal, besides traversing the north- east wing of the county, sends a branch into junc- tion with the Monkland canal at Glasgow, and thus aftbrds, both to Glasgow itself and to the Monkland mineral-field, a direct navigation across the kingdom to the frith of Forth and the German ocean. The rocks of Lanarkshire present a wide range to the observation of the geologist, and comprise every- thing desirable in almost every department of mineral economy. Greywacke is the predon\inant rock among the uplands. Some varieties of trap- rock also abound there. The old red sandstone prevails in the lower part of the upper ward, pnr- ticularly in the ti-act around the falls of Clyde. Rocks of the carboniferous formation predominate throughout the middle ward and the lower ward; and they very extensively present to the quanier and the miner, the most useful members of that forma- tion, in the most desirable proportions, and in ex- cellent positions. The strata, on both sides of the valley of the Clyde, all incline toward the river; or, in other words, they ascend from the axis of the river's course, with a variety of gradient, till they reach the surface, or as the miners express it, crop out one after the other. Hence it often happens that the first seam of coal found in one mine is the LANARKSHIRE. 2,sy LANARKSHIRE. second, or third, or fourth in another mine. The coal strata extend through all the low or plain parts of the region, and ramify thence up the vales of the principal streams; so that the general area occupied by them is both very large aud exceedingly con- venient. The rocks of the uplands are .argely metalliferous. The tract around the sources of Glengonner water contains such rich veins of lead ore as to have long taken from it the name of Leadhills. Lead ores have been successfully worked here for several centuries, and still yield annually about 700 tons of lead. The principal ores are common and compact galena; but there are also green lead ore, black lead ore, yellow lead ore, white and black carbonates of lead, sulphate of lead, sulphato-carbonate of lead, and phosphate of lead. There are likewise, in the same rocks, silver ore, copper-pyrites, azure copper ore, malachite, iron-pyrites, grey manganese, calamine, calcareous spar, brown spar, heavy spar, sparry ironstone, and some other spars. The silver does not exist in sufficient quantity to repay the expense of extracting it. Gold occurs in minute particles in the till or clay nearest the rocks, and occasionally also in quartz. Extensive search for it was made in the reign of James V., but did not prove to be compensating, and was abandoned. Veins of lead occur in the parish of Crawfordjohn, in circum- stances which might probably afford remunerative mining. Attempts have been made to discover compensating lead veins in the parishes of Lesma- hago, Carniichael, and Dolphinton, but without success. Ironstone, in great plenty, and of valuable quality, exists in many parts of Lanarkshire. It began to be worked at Wilsontown in Carnwath, in 1781; and it is now worked in lune parishes to so great an extent as to afford large employment to the inhabi- tants, and to be a very prominent article of export. The enormous iron-trade of Scotland, which will be found noticed on pages 757 and 758 of our article on Glasgow, is mainly the produce of Lanarkshire; and the rapid increase of that trade in recent years, is an index of the correspondingly rapid increase of this county's mining industry. The blast furnaces for tlie production of pig iron are so numerous in some parts, particularly around Coatbridge, as to give a characteristic feature to the country. Even the malleable iron- works are now prominent; and large engineering establishments, for the construc- tion of steam-engines and of other large iron machin- ery, challenge attention. The ironstone is particu- larly abundant and specially valuable in the parish of New Monkland. It occurs there partly in balls and partl}^ in seams; and the most common seams are the nnissel-band and the black-band. The black-band, both in that parish and in the parish of Old Monkland, is particularly valuable on account of its occurring in connexion with large quantities of suitable coal. In the parish of Govan also, a seam of excellent black-band ii'onstone, from 10 to 15 inches thick, is found above gas-coal; and farther down are several seams of clay-band, varying from 5 to 12 inches in thickness, and yielding from 30 to 33 per cent, of iron. The coal of Lanarkshire is still more important than the inmstone, and even gives the latter the main part of its value. The coal field of this county extends from Douglasdale to the north-west bound- ary, having a length of about 30 miles, an average breadth of nearly 4 miles, and an area of about 1 10 square miles. A considerable variety of kinds of coal are contained in it; and these, together with their geological position, are well described as follows by Mr. Naismith in his Agricultural Survey II of Clydesdale; — " A number of these strata or seamg lie above that which is generally called, around the city of Glasgow, the upper coal, because it is the first that is found worth digging to any extent. This stratum is composed entirely of what is called rough coal in Scotland, except a small part near the middle of it of a kind called splint. 2. About 16 or 17 fathoms under that lies the ell coal, so called be- cause it was first found of this thickness, but it is frequently from 4 to 6 feet thick. It is composed of two kinds, called j'olk and cherry coal, with some- times a parting of splint, and sometimes not. This is a fine caking coal, or what is called in England a close-burning coal, and is much esteemed for the blacksmith's forge. 3. At from 10 to 17 fathoms below the last, lies the seam called the main coal, from its possessing all the good qualities found in any of the other strata. It contains rough coal, splint, and parrot, or jet coal, and is preferred to all the others as the most profitable. Its thickness is from oh to 'J feet. Sometimes a thin bed of stone is found about the middle of the seam, and the thick- ness is 10 feet. 4. About 13 or 14 fathoms lower lies the humph coal. It consists of yolk and rough coal, with a thin parting of splint. In some places it is without the splint, and unworkable, being much inteilaced with these laminsB of stone, and a kind of petrified black clay called blaise, black bituminous shale, and slate clay. 5. Below the humph coal lies the hard coal, sometimes at 14 fathoms distant. It consists solely of splint and l)arrot coal, and is found to be the best in the county for the smelting of iron. It is also very good for family use. (5. At a fathom and a half lower is I'ound the soft coal, from 30 inches to 6 feet thick. It is composed of the rough, yolk, and cherry coals, cakes much in burning, and is esteemed a good coal for the blacksmith's forge. 7. About 13 or 14 fathoms below this lies a coal, called about Glasgow the sour-milk coal. As it burns slowly and affords but a weak heat, it is what the miners call a lean coil, and has therefore been but little wrought. There are a number of these seams under the sour- ntilk coal, all of a lean quality, and generally much interlaced with laminae of stone, blaise, or sliivei-. Under the last mentioned have been found seveial strata of excellent lime; and more of these thin Seams of coal again have been discovered under the lime, but all of them which have yet been tried are of a lean quality. "The above is the order of the coal strata everj'where along the Clyde, where they are entire. These are distinguished by the name of the Clyde strata, or seams of coal, and not only lie along the sides of that river, through all the plain country, but branch out less or more along the prmcipal streams, on some of them to a great extent. Besides these there are other seams of coal in the county, of a somewhat different nature. In the parish of Sliotts a fine yolk coal is wrought, resembling the coal found upon the sides of the Forth, and supposed to be a continuation of one of the same strata. Upon the sides of the Douglas river are extensive collier- ies, which supply some of the southern provinces where that fuel is wanting. The coal here is also similar to that of the Forth. On the south-west boundary of the county, is coal of the same quality with that wrought on the coast of Ayrshire. -It crops out at the surface about the middle of Avon- dale parish. There are still some other variations in the coal strata which merit attention. Near the northern boundary of the county a species is found distinguished by the name of the blind coal, from its burning with intense heat without flanje. This must no doubt have been deprived of the fixed air by means of subterraneous fire. It is used for the LANARKSHIRE. 290 LANARKSHIRE. same pui-poses as coke, anil even prefeiTed to coke artificially made, its effluvia being still less offen- sive. The blind coal is always found under a cover- ing of horizontal whin; and where tlie same seam is traced till it conies luider the freestone rock, its qualities are entirely changed, and it becomes in every respect the common pit-coal. Another species of coal, the qualities of which are directly opposite to those of the last, is found in different parts of the county. It is here called the cannel or liglit coal, and is said to be the parrot or jet coal of the third scam in the above enumeration, divested of the other kinds whicli accompany it when the seam is complete. But when this is found alone, it seems to be still more exquisitely inflammable; it takes flame the moment it is brought in contact with the fire, and a small fragment of it may be carried about in the hand like a flambeau, and will continue for a long time to give a vivid light." If the medium thickness of the entire coal field of the county be estimated at 15 feet, the contents of the entire field will be 1,703,680,000 cubic yards of coal. Limestone abounds in every part of the coal dis- trict. It occurs generally beneath the seventh seam of coal, about 73 fathoms below the upper coal. It is found near the surface only in places of consider- able elevation, after the strata which lie naturally above it have all cropped out, and are no longer to be found. It occurs in the parishes of Carnwath and Carluke, but more frequently on the other side of the Clyde, particularly in the parishes of Douglas, Lesmaliago, Avondale, Stonehouse, Glassford, Ham- ilton, Blantyre, and East Kilbride. Sandstone also, of excellent quality for building, and of very de- versified appearance, abounds in all the coal dis- tricts. It is found in distinct strata of red and vvjiite, and sometimes of a mixed colour, and so beautifully blended as to resemble marble. The colour of the houses, however, will generally de- note the description of stone which prevails in the vicinity; but it is generally found that on the east side of the Clyde the red sandstone predominates, while on the west and south the white stone is the standard. Organic remains are so abundant in m.any parts, particularly in the carboniferous strata, as to render Lanarkshire more interesting to the palaeontologist than any other county in Scotland. Mineral wells also occur in almost every parish, and have a great variety of character. The westerly and south-westerly winds prevail in Lanarkshire during about two-thirds of the year; and, as they come up from the Atlantic very little modified by any intervening land, they have all the mildness of the ocean temperature, and at tlie same time are heavih' charged with vapour. In the lower ward, during these winds, the rain falls in frequent showers, or for series of days, between short inter- vals of fair weather; but, in the low country farther up the Clyde, the rain is less frequent; and, in the hollow immediately contiguous to the river, some- times no rain falls even while there are showers on the flanking braes. The winds from the east are sharper than those from the west or the south-west, blow less frequently, and their force is somewhat broken by the high land on the east side of the country; so that the cold damps, so prevalent on the east coast, do not often arrive here. "Wind from the north-east is next in frequencj' to that from the south-west, and is generally attended by fair weather. Kains from the north-west, north, and north-east, are neither frequent nor heavy, but are little con- ducive to vegetation. Intense frost is seldom of long continuance, and deep, long-lying snow is rare, But in the uplands of the county, heavy rains often fall, fogs often envelope the hills, the winters are severe and tedious, and the heats of summer ajo often interrupted bj' chilling blasts. In every part of the county also, the seed-time of any year is liable to be seveiely damaged by wetness of weather; foi-, when there does not happen to be a sufficient dura- tion of drought, either the seed must be committed to an uncongenial state of the soil, or not sown at all till an unduly late period. The agriculture of Lanarkshire, notwithstanding all the drawbacks of climate, is in a high condition The progress of improvement has been broad, steady, and rapid. The energy of mining industry in the mineral field, and that of manufacturing industry in the towns, has been vied with, and perhaps in some degree imitated, by that of lural industry on the soil. Agriculturists here have been as enterpris- ing as agriculturists anywhere; and, though con- fronted by much stiffer obstacles than those in the way of the Lothian agriculturists, they have as completely overcome them. The reclamation of waste lands, the fertilization of naturally good lands, and all the arts and processes of agricultural ame- lioration, have been very largely and triumphantly plied. Even ancient families, whose large estates lie under the incubus of entail, have, in some instances, done great things in the way of improvement; v.hile many modern proprietors, whose wealth has been transfeiTcd from comn.erce to landed pro- ])i'ietorship. have infused into the aftairs of rural economy all the animation and impulse which are characteristic of city industry. The whole agricul- ture of Lanarkshire, in fact, has been " at once stimulated and assisted by the means and facilities which the commercial resources aflbrd; and the streams of wealth which are ever issuing from Glasgow, as a grand reservoir, spread riches and beauty, not only over the adjacent portions of the county, but over its remotest extremities." In the statistics of agriculture, obtained in 1854 for the Board of Trade, by the Highland and Agri- cultural Society of .Scotland, 190,100^ imperial acres weie returned as in tillage, 6,440| under wheat, 2,290^ under barley, 56,1161 under oats, 164 under I've, 252 J under here, 3,735f under beans, 430 under pease, 1,581 under vetches, 10,885f under turnips, S.016| under potatoes, 58 under mangel-wuizel, 28^ under carrots, 239A under cabbages, 1,275| under flax, 10 under turnip seed, and 1,519J in bare fal- low. The estimated gross produce was 209,324 bushels of wheat, 80,158 bushels of barle}^ 1,936,027 bushels of oats, 8,837 bushels of here, 108,336 bushels of licans, 160,564 tons of turnips, and 34,872 tons of potatoes. The estimated average produce per im- perial acre was 32^ bushels of wheat, 35 bushels of barley, 34^ bushels of oats, 35 bushels of here, 29 bushels of beans, 14f tons of turnips, and 4 tons 7 cwt. of potatoes. The number of acres not in til- lage comprised 97,120^ under grass in the rotation of the farm, 68,155§ in permanent pasture, 5,441 in irrigated meadows, 163,826i in sheep walks, 19,446 under wood, 33, 066 J in a state of waste, and 10,231 J in house-steads, roads, fences, &c. The numbers of live stock comprised 7,241 horses, 30,528 milcli cows, 9,938 calves, 18,488 other bovine cattle, 108.000 ewes, gimmers, andewe-hoggs, 19,916 tups, wethers, and wether-hoggs, and 8,891 swine. Tiie number of agricultural occupants in the county, in 1855, paying a yearly rent of £10 or upwards, exclusive of tenants of woods, owners of villas, feuars, householders, and the like, was 3,133. The number of occupants pay- ing an annual rent of less than £10 was 338. 'J"he number of heritors of £100 Scots of valued rent in 1852 was 312 ; and the number of commissioners of supply was 462. The valued rental of the county in 1674 was £162,131 Scots. The annual value of LANARKSHIRE. 291 LANARKSHIRE.. real property, as assessed in 1815, was £686,531 ; in 1860, £S, 398,732. Tlie averap;e of the tiar prices from 1854 to 1860, both iiichisive, was, best wheat, 52s. 5Jcl. ; second wlieat, 47s. 5(1.; best barley, 32s. lO-^jd.; second barley, 27s. 2f 1.; best here, 28s. K-^d. ; best oats, 24s."8|d.; second oats, 21s. 7-^^d.; best beans, 44s. 5Jd.; best malt, 57s. S^d.; best oatmeal, 19s. 3^d. The rise and' progress of the manufactures of Lanarkshire belong so intimately to the history of Glasgow, that it is not necessary to treat of them at length here. Previous to the beginning of the last century, manufactures either did not exist in Scot- land, or were of the most contemptible kind. Hence, for 20 years after its establishment in 1695, the bank of Scotland could not employ £30,000 annually in the business of the whole kingdom. r>ranches of the bank were established in several of the Scottish towns, and Glasgow amongst the rest ; but after a trial, the bank directors found themselves compelled to give up their provincial offices, and bring their books, notes, and specie to Edinburgh " by horse carriage." Even so late as 1727, tlie counties of Perth and Forfar possessed more extensive manu- factures than Lanarkshire. About 1750, however, the beneficial effects of the Union had begun to be felt, and the industry and resources of the county to be fully developed. Two banks were then started in the city of Glasgow — the one by Dunlop, Hous- ton, and company, and the other bj' Cochran, Mur- doch, and company. The trade with Virginia sprang up and flourished ; and the various new trades and manufactures which this called into existence and fostered, extended their benefits over the whole county. But the main commercial prosperity of Lanarkshire may be dated from 1784, when the cot- ton trade was introduced, after Aikwright's magni- ficent invention had become fully understood, and its practice was open to the whole country fiom the expiry of the patent. Lanarkshiie w-as particularly qualified for embracing this new trade — first, from its possession of an exhaustless supply of coal, and next, from possessing the sea-ports on the Clyde, by means of which the merchants of Glas- gow could hold communication with almost all the markets of the world. Wealth flowed into the county; old coal mines were worked on improved principles with renewed spirit, and new ones opened; the iron trade was called into existence ; crowds of population thronged not only into Glasgow, but to those localities in the county where the mineral treasures most abounded ; the superficies of the land, from the near presence of a wealthy commer- cial and manixfacturing capital, grew in fertility and beauty ; and thus Lanarkshire received an impetus which has long since accorded her the first rank for population, wealth, and importance among the counties of Scotland. Although a commercial and manufacturing aristo- cracy have now grown up in the county, there still remain many ancient families of note, the ancestors of Bome of whom are not unworthily known to Scot- tish history. A few may be named. Foremost is the ducal family of Hamilton, whose head is the premier peer of Scotland. To this family also be- long the noble houses of Belhaven and Dalziel, and many others of the same name of honoiirable status in the county. The old Douglases of the Angus line are lineally represented on the female side by Baron Douglas, and collaterally by other families of the county. There are still, too, the Lockharts of Lee, with many off'shoots from the parent branch ; the Baillies of Lamington. the Rosses of Bonni- ton, the Colebrookes of Crawford, the Veres of Stone- byres, and many more. The mansions of the county, even those of first class character for magnificence and extent, are very numerous ; and elegant resi- dences, of the villa kind, equal in most respects to the manor-houses of other counties, can be counted by the hundred. Our space will admit of our no- ticing only a few of the mansions, merely byname, and with reference rather to their distribution over the county, than to any other principle of selection. Some of the chief are Hamilton-palace, Douglas- castle, Bothwell-castle, Carstairs-house, Wishaw- house, Mauldslie- castle. Core - house, Bonniton- house. Lee-castle, Allanton-house, Airdrie-house, Monkland-house, Carstairs-house, Stoncbyres-house, Milton -Lockhart. Dalziel -house, Cambusnethan- priory, Coltness-nouse, "VVoodhall, Cleland-house, Rosehall, Newton-house, and Castlemilk. The burghs in Lanarkshire, possessing a parlia- mentary representation, are Glasgow, Airdn'e, Ha- milton, Lanark, and Rutherglen. Glasgow sends two members for itself; Airdrie, Hamilton, and Lanark unite with Falkirk and Linlithgow to send a member ; and Rutherglen unites with Renfrew, Port-Glasgow, Dumbarton, and Kilmarnock to send a member. The other towms in Lanarkshire having each a population of upwards of 2,000, are Calder- bank, Carhrke, Coatbridge, Govan, Stonehouse, Strathaven, and Wishawton. The burghs of barony are Biggar, Strathaven, and East Kilbride. The other small towns and the principal villages are Douglas, Uddington, Abbeygieen, Turfholm, Bog- head, Crossford, Ilazelbank, Kirkfieldbank, Kirk- muirhill, Newtrows, Crawfordji>hn, Abington, Craw- ford, Leadhills, Culter, Lamington, Wiston, Roberton, Newton- Roberton, Symington, Walston, Ellsrickle, Libberton, Quothquau, Thankerton, New-Lanark, Cartland, Braidwood, Kilcadzow, Yellshields, Car- stairs, Raven stmther, Pettinain, Dunsyre, Carn wath, Newbigging, Braehead, Forth, Wilsontown, Kirk- now, Overtown, Stewarton, Stane, Bonkle, Omoa, Harthill, Newton-Shotts, Sallysburgh, Shotts-lron- works, Motherwell, Windmillhill, Newarthill, Holy- town, Chapelhall, Bellshill. Uddingstone, Botl;- well, Arden, Ballochney, Greengairs, Riggend, AVatt's-Town, Braes, Carmyle, Causeyside, Dun- dyvan, New-Dundyvan, Langloan, Faskine, Green- end, Baillieston, Barachine, Craigend, ]\Ierrystone, West-Merrystone, Swinton, Coatdyke, Gartcloss, Gartsherrie, Summerlee, Fernigair, Dalserf, Rose- bank, Millheugh, Larkhall, Sandyford, Chapelton, Westquarter, Blantyre- Works, Kirkton of Blantyre, Barnhill, Auchintiber, Auchinraith, Hunthill, Stone- field, Kittockside, Busby (part of), Cambuslang (the connected villages of), Dalton, Lightburn, Silver- banks, Carnmnnock, Partick, Auchiiiairn, Chryston, iMollensburn,Moodiesbuni,Muirh.--..- riiursday of Marcli, June. September, and Decein- jer and at Douglas on the first Friday of April, (Vuf-ust and December. 'I'he number of comuiittnls small debt act, are held at Biggar (m tlie^second Tl b for crime^in tii"'e''vear, within the county, was oOft ill tlie average of '1836— 1840, 620 in tlic average of 1841 1845 782 in the average of 1846—1850, and 673 in the average of 1851—1800. Tiie_ sums paid for expenses of criminal prosecutions in the years 1846— 1S52 ranged from £7,614 to £11,244. The total number of persons confined iu the jails of Olasgow within the year ending 3Uth June 1860. was 3,n8f>,— in the jail at Airdrie, 823,— in the jail at Hamilton,, ')65,— in tlie jail at Lanark, 110; theaver- age duration of the confinement of each, at Glasgow, ■v^as 50 davs, — at Airdrie, 14 days, — at Hamilton, 35 days. — at Lanark, 37 days; and thenetcost of their confinement per head, after deducting earnings, was, atGlasgow, £14 6s. 5d.,— at Airdrie, £15 19s. 6d.,— at Hamilton. £16 17s. 4d.,— at Lanark, £26 14s. Id. Tliere are six poorhonses in Lanarkshire, namely, one in Glasgow, with accommodation for 1,500 persons; one in Barony of Glasgow, with accom- modation ibr 1,319 persons; one in Govan, with ac- commodation for 750 persons; one in New Monk- land, witli accommodation for 300 persons ; one in Lanark, with accommodation for 58 persons; ami one in Douglas, for a combination of ten parishes. The number of parishes or quasi-parislies assessed for the poor is 37 ; unassessed, 4. The number of registered poor in the year 1852-3 was 22.261 ; in tlfe year 1863-4, 21,968. The number of casual poor in 1852-3 was 5,954; in 1863-4, 9,590. The sum expended on the registered poor in 1852-3 was £70.610; in 1863-4. £98.519. The sum expeiwied on the casual poor in 1852-3 was £3,991; in 1859- 60, £4,813. The assessment for prisons and rogne money is Ijd. per pound of real rent. Population of the county in 1801. 147,692; in 1811, 191,291; in 1821,244,387; in 1831,316,819; in 1841,426,972; in 1861, 631.566. Males in 1861, 304,151 ; femaleb, 327,415. Inhal>ited houses in 1861, 46,675; unin- haliited, 1,787; building. 496. There are in Lanark.shire 49 entire quoad civilia pirishes, parts of 4 other quoad civilia parishes, 10 quoad sacra parislies, and 34 chapels of ease. One of the part quoad civilia parishes is in the pres- bytery of Lochmaben, and synod of Dumfries; 9 of the quoad civilia parishes are in the presbytery of Biggar, and synod of liOthian and Tweeddale ; 11 of the quoad civilia parishes, and 2 of tlie chapels of ease, are in the presbytery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr; 15 of the quoad civilia parishes, and 8 of the chapels of ease, are in the presbytery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr; and 14 of the quoad civilia parishes, 3 of the part quoad civih'a ])arislies, the 10 quoad sacra parishes, and 24 of the chapels of east', are in the presbytery of Glas- gow, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. In 1851, the number of places of worship within Lanarkshire was 327; of which 82 belonged to the Established cluirch, 63 to the Free church, 59 to the United Presbyterian church, 5 to the Reformed Presbyte- rian church. 4 to the Original Secession churcli, 12 to tlie Episcopalians. 29 to the Independents, 12 to the Baptists, 2 to the Society of Friends, 1 to the Unitarians, 3 to the Moravians, 9 to the Wesleyan Methodists, 4 to the Primitive Methodists, 1 to the Glassites, 1 to the New Cliurch, 1 to the Campbell- ites, 4 to the Evangelical Union, 14 to the Roman Catholics, 1 to the Catholic and Apostolic church, 6 to the Mormonites, and 17 to isolated congrega- tions. Tlie number of sittings in 50 of the Estab- lished places of woisliip was 44.135; in 54 of the Free church places uf worship, 40,805; in 48 of the United Presbyterian places of worship, 43,3()1 ; in the 5 Reformed Presbyterian places of wors!iip, 3,080; in 3 of the Original Secession churches, 2^020; in 8 of the Episcopalian chapels, 4,149; in 25 of the Independent chapels, 11,462; in 7 of the Baptist cliapels, 2,070; in 1 of the chapels of ttie Society of Friends, 400; in the Unitarian cha- pel, 850 ; in 1 of the Moravian chapels, 200 ; in 6 of the Wesleyan Methodist chapels, 2,762; in tlie 4 Primitive Methodist chapels, 570; in the Glassite chapel, 250; in tiie New Church chapel, 250; in 2 of the Evangelical Union chapels, 1,650; in 13 of the Roman Catliolic chapels, 12.834; in the Catho- lic and Apostolic church chapel, 150; in 3 of the Mormonite chapels, 631 ; and in 1 1 of the chapels of isolated congregations, 3,610. The maximum at- tendance on the Census Sabbath at 50 of the Estab- lished places of worship was 24,539; at 58 of tlie Free cliurch places of wen-ship, 26,097 ; at 51 of tlie United Presbyterian places of worship, 28,214; at the 5 Reformed Presbyterian places of worship, 2.237 ; at 3 of the Original Secession places of wor- sliip, 950; at 10 of the Episcopalian chapels, 2,980; at 27 of the Independent chapels, 5,026; at 9 of the Baptist chapels, 1,238; at the 2 chapels of the So- ciety of Friends, 60; at the Unitarian chapel, 400; at l" of the Moravian chapels. 55 ; at 7 of the Wes- leyan Methodist chapels, 1,772; at the 4 Primitive Methodist chapels, 408; at the Glassite chapel, 96; at the New Church chapel, 107 ; at 3 of the chapels of the Evangelical Uinon, 1,600; at 12 of the Ro- man Catholic chapels, 13,908; at the Catholic and Apostolic cliurch chapel, 100; at the 6 Mormonite chapels, 659; and at the 17 chapels of isolated con- "•i-egatioiis, 1,476. There were in 1851, in Lanark- shire, 281 public day schools, attended by 20,101 males, and 16,281 females, — 250 private day schools, attended by 8,776 males, and 8,110 females, — 172 evening schools for adults, attended by 4,217 males, and 2,594 females, — and 622 Sabbath schools, at- tended by 28,007 males, and 32,112 females. The tract of country now constituting Lanark- shire was anciently peopled by the Caledonian tribe called the Damnii ; whose language may still be traced in the names of some of the localities and streams. The Romans not only overran all this district, but held it for some time in complete pos- session. Hence the Roman camps and Roman roads which occur in many parts of it; also the Roman tombs, utensils, and weapons of warfare, which have often been turned up by the ploughshare or the spade in the process of excavating and embanking. In subduing the original inhabitants the Romans did much to civilize them, and introduce the arts of industry and peace : and they were the first to beau- tify and enrich the face of the country by the plant- ing of those orchards for wliich Clydesdale has for ages been so fiimous. The inroad, however, of the Scandinavian and other savage tribes, pressing upon the heart of the Roman empire, induced them to withdraw their legions, artificers, and husbandmen from the extremities of their dominions ; and thus Clydesdale was again left in the possession of tlie semi-bnrbarous Damnii. By them was founded the kingdom of Strathclyde, which gradually extended until it included within its ample limits Liddesdale, Teviotdale, Dumfries -shire, Galloway, Ayrshire, Lanarkshire, Renficwshire, part of Peebles-shire, the western part of Stirlingshire, and the greater portion of Dumbartonshire, forming, indeed, a king- dom which embraced the greater part of Scotland south of the Forth, excepting the Lothians and the Merse. Sometimes they were united under one valorous chief; and at others the leaders of subor- dinate tribes in the general confederacv contended \ LANARKSHIRE. 293 LANGHOLM. for the mastery. Meantime these Strathcludensiaiis were often assailed by the Picts, from the northern side of the Forth, by the Scoto-Irish from Kintyre, or by the Saxons from the north of England, who envied them their fair domains on the Clyde. Their capital was taken, their dominion circumscribed, yet were they never formally conquered, though it is believed, that after the union of the Scots and Picts, they were amalgamated with the other rude ma- terials which formed the Scottish dynasty under Kenneth. Many of the Strathcludensians prefeiTcd expatriation to acknowledging any other sovereign but one of their own choosing; and with heavy hearts they left the warm vales of Clydesdale, and wending their path southward, found an abiding- place among the hills and dales of Wales. After the formation of the Scottish kingdom, Lanarkshire suffered more or less from the domestic conflicts between the kings and Gallovidian chiefs, or from the wai"s of England. The history of tliis period is uninteresting, howevei", although Lanark- shire continued to progress in wealth, and it.s civi- lization was accelerated by the foundation of the bishopric of Glasgow, and the settlement, in the district, of several distinguished Flemings. Tiie death of Alexander IIL, without male issue, left the kingdom a prey to intrigue, contest, and com- petition, which only ended after years of domestic strife by the consolidation of the independence of the kingdom, which was achieved by Biiice at Bannockburn. But the precursor to this was the patriotic career of the celebrated Sir William Wal- lace, whose first exploit was that of driving the English out of the town of Lanark. The ' good Sir James Douglas,' perhaps, contributed more than any other man to the eventful triumph of Bruce; and, in consequence, that part of the county in which his estates and castles were situated was more than once subjected to the fire and sword of the English. After this, however, Lanarkshire en- joyed a long period of domestic peace, until power and prosperity had chanDred this celebrated family from being the best and first subjects of the Crown into its most turbulent and dangerous rival. See Douglas. In the reign of James II. the ambition of the Douglases, added to the intrigues of the first Lord Hamilton, plunged Lanarkshire into the hor- rors of civil war; so that, as is recorded in Grey's Manuscript Chronicle, "In March^ 1455, James the Second cast doune the castel of Inveravyne ; and syne incontinent past to Glasgu. and gaderit the westland men, with part of the Areschery [Irisherv], and passed to Lanerik. and to Douglas, and syne brynt all Douglasdale. and all Avendale, and all the Lord Hamiltoune's lands, and heriit them clerlye; and syne passit to Edinburgh, and fra their till "the forest, with one host of Lawland men. And all that wald nocht cum till him furthewith, he tuke their guids and brj^nt their places, and took faitle of all the gentilles clerlie. And all this time the Lord Hamiltoun was in England till have gottyn suplie, and couth get name hot gif the Douglas and he would have bene Englismen, and maid the aith." The county remained in a state of peace, with little noticeable incident, from the time of James II. till the escape of Queen Mary from Lochleven- castle, the assembling of her army at Hamilton, and its defeat by the Regent Murray at Langside, near Glasgow. Again the county was peaceful till the 30 years war of the persecution, caused by the re.sistance of the Scottish Presbj- terians to submit to 'black prelacy,' which was sought to be imposed on them by the royal Charleses. The western counties were the chief scene of this devoted resist- ance to oppression; and the punishment inflicted by the 'Highland host,' the battles of Drumclog and Bothwell, and the sufferings of the Covenanters unto the death, by fomine, ill-usage, and military persecution, are too well-known to require a minute detail here. In all these Lanarkshire had her full share. But the revolution of 1688 brought more peaceful times; and the declaration of the Prince of Orange was published at Glasgow before its publication in any other part of Scotland. In pro- portion, however, as Lanarkshire ardently favoured and supported the Revolution, it bitterly opposed the Union of 1707. The Duke of Hamilton and several of the barons were also loud and sincere in their opposition; and there was scarcely a town or village in the county which did not make a de- monstration against this then obnoxious national measure. The Glasgow rablders are spoken of in terms the reverse of courteous by the historians of the Union; but no outbreak of moment took place, and it is no stigma cast upon the reflection of our forefathers to assume, that while they regarded that great measure as one which cut up their nationality by the roots, they could not foresee the vast advan- tages which would result to this part of Scotland by participating in the trade of England, and having free access to her colonies. The only I'emarkable events -which have occurred in Lanarkshire since that time belong rather to Glasgow than to the county at large, and mil be found noticed in our article on Glasgow. The slieriftclom of Lanark was formed at a very early date, and is believed to have been in existence so early as the reign of the lawgiving David I. In these early and troublous times, it was held by vari- ous peisons; and it finally fell into the grasping hands of the Douglas family, who held it as a hereditaiy source of honour and power. After their downfall," it was granted in fee to the Hamiltims, who held it as a hereditary appendage to their titles and possessions for many generations. Occasion- ally, but rarely, it was held by other noblemen, and among others by the Earl of Selkirk, upon whom the oflice was conferred in 1716, the heir of Hamil- ton being then under age, and held by him till his death in 1739. Upon Uie death of the Earl, James tlie sixth Duke of Hamilton took possession of the ofiice, as hereditaiy sheriff, without any formal grant; and upon a change of system being about to itake place, he claimed in 1747." the sum of £10,000, as compensaticm for the sheriffdom. This claim was disallowed by the judges; but they allowed him £3,000 for the lordship and jurisdiction of the re- gality of Hamilton. At this time, Mr. William Cross, advocate, was appointed the first sheriff ol Lanarkshire under the new system, the salary being then £200 per annum. LANGAVAT. See Uio. LANGBANK, a station on the Glasgow and Greenock railway, 4^ miles east-south-east of Port- Glasgow, and 9' miles west-north-west of Paisley, Renfrewshire. LANGBURN (The), a head-stream of Slitrig water in Roxburghshire. It rises contiguous to the watershed between Teviotdale and Liddesdale, and runs north-westward across the upper part of the •parish of Hobkirk. LANGFAULDS. See Kilpatrick. (East). LANGHAUGH. See Hamilton. LANGHOLM, a parish, containing a post town of its own name, in the district of Eskdale, Dum- friesshire. It is bounded by Westerkirk, Ewes, Canonbie, Half-Morton, ^Middlebie, and Tnnder- garth. Its length eastward is 8 miles; and its greatest breadth is G^ miles. The river Esk runs southward through the interior, dividing about one- LA.NGHOLM. 294 LANGHOLM. third of the parish on its left bank from the re- maining two-thirds on its right. Ewes-water runs tlirough the north-east district to a confluence with the Esk at tlie town. Wauchope-water rises in several head-streams on tliu -westeni border, and runs eastward through the interior to tlie Esk at the town, a few poles below the point where that river is entered on the opposite bank by the Ewes. Tarras-water runs along all tlie eastern and south-eastern boundary to the Esk. Tlireo medicinal springs, one of them sulphureous, and the other two chalybeate, occur in the western district. The ground along the Esk and tlie Ewes is flat, and well-sheltered by plantations and thriv- ing hedgi'S; and liaving a light loamy soil, culti- vated with care, it yields most luxuriant crops. Other pai'ts of the parish, comprehending most of its area, consist chiefly of smooth hills, verdant to their summits, and parcelled out into sheep-farms. The proportions of arable land and of pasture over the whole area, are to each other very nearly as 2 to 13. Upwards of 400 acres are under plantation. The scenery in many parts, particularly along the Esk, is exceedingly jjeautifal. The rocks of the upiier part of the parish belong to the transition series; and those of the lower part, from the town down- ward, belong to tlie coal formation. Greywacke slate is worked. Lead ore occurs on the farm of Westwater, and on the estate of Broomholm. The principal landowner is the Duke of Buccleuch, and others are Maxwell of Broomholm and Little of Arkinholm. The principal mansions are Langholm- lodge and Brooinholm-house, the former belonging to the Duke of Buccleuch. Over the Ewes, be- tween Langholm-lodge and the town, stands an old stone bridgeof two arches. Over the Esk, uniting the old and the new parts of the town, and forming the commencement of the road into Upper Eskdale, is another bridge of tlu'ee arches. The two bridges stand nearly parallel, and are not above a gun-shot fro u each other, the two rivers uniting immediately below them. About balf-a-mile south of the town is a third bridge of three arches. The road from Ilawiek to Carlisle traverses the parish down the vale of the Ewes to the town, and thence down the vale of the Esk. The Eoman road of communica- tion between Netherbie and Ovcrbie can still be traced to have entered the p:irish at its south- east corner, crossed the Esk a little aliove Broom- holm, and run thence north-westward till it passed into Westerkirk. Langholm-castle, a plain square tower or peel-house, now in a state of ruin, was anciently the property of the Armstrongs, the powerful family of Border freebooters. On Lang- holm-holm, " Johiiie Armstrong of Gilnockie, and his gallant companie of thirty-six men,'' when going to meet King James Y., " ran their horse and brak their spears," wdien — "The l.idies lookit frae their loft windows. Saying, God send our men well back again ! " At the confluence of the Esk and the Ewes is a small fragment of a castle, formerly the pioperty of the Nithsdale family, lords of regality of Eskdale. Wauchope-castle, romantically situated on the brow of a precipice, overlooking the rush of Wauchope- water among pointed rocks, and the pendant oaks and underwood of a picturesque bank on the oppo- site side, was the first residence of tlie Lindsays in Scotland, but only its grass -covered foundations now remain. Pennant, when visiting the house of Broomholm, — in the vicinity of which an old tower was taken down about 120 years ago, — was of opin- ion that it stands in the centre of the site of an old British town, and corresponds to Caesar's descrip- tion, "Oppidum sylvis paludibusque munitum quo," &c. The castle of Barntalloch, near Staplegorton. which surmounted a rocky precipice on the Esk, and aiound which was a burgh-of-barony, with an annual great fixir, has utterly disapjieared. The towers of Ii-vine, Nease, Hill, and Cawfield, also are among the things which were. About 75 years ago were found in the parish Eoman coins, cliiefly de- naiii aurei, of the reigns of Nero, Vespasian, Otho, and Domitian. Population in 1831,2,(376; in IS'U, 2,1*79. Houses, 564. Assessed property in 1860, £9,008. Real rental in 1855, £8,269. Tliis parish is tlie seat of a presbytery in the synod of Dumfries. Patrons, the Crown and tlie Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £289 3s.; glebe, £25. Unappropriated teinds, £556 2s. 9d. School- master's salary, £65, with £30 for female assistant. The parish church is an elegant Gothic edifice, built in 1846, and containing nearly 1,400 sit- tings. There is a Free church ; and the annnint of its receipts in 1865 was £258 9.s. lljd. There are two United Presbyterian churches; the one of them formerly United Secession, built in 1822, and con- taining about 500 sittings, — the other formerly Belief, built in 1807. There is an endowed school at Broomholm ; and there are seven other schools in the parish, besides the parochial school. The present parish of Langholm comprehends the an- cient parishes of Staplegorton and Wauchope. Staplegorton includes all the district east of the Esk, and some territory on its west bank. The church stood on the east side of the Esk, above Patholm, and is still commemorated by its burying- groiuid. The parish, as to its ecclesiastical pro- perty, was given, in the 12th century, by William de Cunigbuio, to the monks of Kelso; and it passed at the Reformation to the Ea.r\ of Roxburgh, but was purchased back by the Crown, and enjoyed, for a brief period, by the bishop of Galloway. The old parish of Wauchope consisted of the district now called Wauchopedale. The church was given, in the 13th century, or earlier, to the priory of Canonbie, a cell of the abbey of Jedburgh ; and after the Re- formation it passed to the Earl of l^nccleuch. The church stood near the old castle of Wauchope; and itsburying-ground yet remains. The present united parish was erected in 1703. The presbytery of Langholm was formed in 1743, at the demolition of the presbytery of Middlebie, by uniting to the five parishes of Eskdale, the pari.sh of Castletown, formerly in the presbytery of Jedburgh. — Among eminent natives of Langholm are Admiral Sir Thomas Pasley, who played a conspicuous part under Earl Howe, in the sea-fight of 1st June, 1794; Colonels Johir Little and jNIatthew Murray, who made a figure in the wars against Tippoo Saib; William Julius Meikle, the translator of 'Camoens' Lusiad;' Thomas Telford, Esq., the celebrated civil engineer; Admiral Sir Pulteney Malcolm; General Sir John Malcolm; and the litterateur. Dr. David Irvine. The Town of LANonoLjr stands on the Esk, at the confluence with it of the Ewes and the Wauchope, 12 miles north of Longtown, 18 north-east of Annan, 21 north of Carlisle, 23 south-south-west of Hawick, and 30 cast-north-east of Dumfries. It is em- liosomed in one of the sweetest landscapes in Scot- land, — neither extensive, romantic, nor grand, but, in the strictest sense, beautiful. The old part of it, orwliat is called Old Langholm, stands on the east bank of the Esk, immediately below the influx of the Ewes, and stn^tches south-eastward along the Hawick and Carlisle road. It consists of one prin- cipal street, with a market-place near its middle. Many of the houses are in a superior style for a LANGLOAN. 295 LANGTON. place of its size; and all are roofed with blue slate qtiai-ried in the vicinity. At the market-place stand the town-hall and jail, built in 1811, ornamented with a spire, and handsome in appearance. In the market-place is a handsome marble statue of Ad- miral Sir Pulteney Malcolm; and on Langholm-hill, in the vicinity of the town, is a stately obelisk, in honour of General Sir John Malcolm. Both of these monuments were erected within these few years, amid enthusiastic expressions of public feel- ing. The new part of the town, or New Langholm, stands on the west bank of the Esk, innnediately above the influx of Wauchope-water, and Ijestrides tlie road leading to Upper Eskdale. It consists of nearly 150 houses, built in regular street arrange- ment, in the form of a triangle. 'Die inhabitants are mostly tradespeople, and pay a small quit-rent for their house and garden. New Langholm was founded in 1778; and a cotton factory was built at it in 1788. A considerable employment both here and in the old town is the weaving of serges, checks, and shepherd's plaids, and the manufacture of wool- len yarns and hose. There are also a distillery, a brewery, and some dye-houses. The town has branch-offices of tlie British Linen Co.'s Bank, and of the National Bank of Scotland; a large subscription library, aided by a bequest; a farming society; a friendly society; and a savings' bank. A weekly market is held on Wednesday ; and four annual fairs are held, — one of them on the 26th of July for lambs, and a principal fair in the South of Scotland, — and the others on the 16th of April, the last Tuesday of May, old style, and the 4th Tuesday of September, for the hiring of farm-servants and the sale of stock. The principal inn is the Crown inn. A newspaper, called the Eskdale Advertiser, is published once a-month. Langholm was erected into a burgh-of-barony, by a charter from the Crown, dated 7th April, 1643. The Duke of Buccleuch is the superior, and appoints a baron-bailie, who again appoints a depute. Baron courts are held for trial of petty offences, and circulating sheriff courts for the recovery of small debts. The town figures grotesquely in history for the taming of shrews, and for the pretended pranks of witches. Population in 1841, 1,305; in 1851, 1,406. The population in 1861 was 2,558, tli;it of Old Langholm being 1,347, and New Langholm 1,211. LANGHOPE. SeeLANGTON. LANGHOUSE. See Inkerkip. LANGLANDSDEAN. See Deax and Wiltox. LANGLEE. See Jedburgh. LANGLEE-PAKK. See Dun. LANGLEY. See Fergus (St.). LANGLOAN, a large mining and manufacturing village, in the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. It is situated in the vicinity of Coatbridge, has six smelting furnaces, and partakes generally in the character of the crowded iron-working district which has Coatbridge for its centre. Population, 1,111. Houses, 215. LANG-LOCH. See Lanarkshire. LANGNEWTON. See Ancrum. LANGSHAW. See Kirkpatiuck-Fi.eming. LANGSIDE, a village in the parish of Cathcart, Renfrewsiiire. It stands in a healthy situation in the north-east corner of the county, 2 miles south- south-west of Glasgow. Population. 304. Hei'e, on 13th May, 1568, the adlierents of Queen Maiy were completely defeated by the Regent Mur- ray. At the field of battle, on the summit of a height called Camphill, there is a circular or ellip- tical enclosure, about 360 feet in circumference, to which the name of ' Queen Mary's camp ' is com- nionlv attached. This is manifestly a popular per- version of fact, for neither the Queen nor her armv ever readied that hill; and as to the Regent, he only took possession of it at the beginning of the engagement. Indeed, the scene of the conflict was so unpremeditated, that neither party had time to form any intrenchment. That in question is pro- bably of Roman formation. It commanded an ex- tensive view of the surrounding country, and com- municated easily with the Roman station at Paisley. The battle of Langside forms the subject of some stirring passages in Scott's historical I'omanceof the Abbot. See the articles Cathcart and Crookstonr. The poet Struthers also alludes to the battle in the following lines of his " Dychmont," — " Now, as I scan tlie landscape wide, Jliiie eye hath caugl.t the fair Langside. A rushing sound is in my ears; I see the serried ranks of spears. For law and liberty upreariiig — I mark Kirkcildy's noljle bearing; I see the Regent's array good, Burst o'er the hill like thunder cloud; While to the crash tlie rocks reply. With echoing shouts of victory." LAN.GTON, a parish, containing the post-office village of Gavinton, nearly in the centre of Ber- wickshire. It lies partly in the Lammermoors and partly in the Merse, and approaches within IJ mile of the town of Dunse. It is bounded by the par- ishes of Longformacus, Dunse, Edrom, and Pol- warth. It has a somewhat triangular outline, measuring 6 miles on its north-east side, 4A on its soutli side, and 3^ on its west side. About four- sevenths of its ai'ea, from its northern angle down- ward, is pastoral upland, commanding a view of tlie wliole luxuriant expanse of the Merse and of North- umberland, as far as Wooler. The heights are called Langton-Edge, and have an extreme altitude of about 900 feet. The lowland division has, in general, a reddish loam soil, and is all finely en- closed with stone or hedge fences, and beautifully chequered with plantation. Tlie proportions of arable ground, and of ground covered with wood, are as 10 to 3. Four rills rise in the interior, and run eastward as tributaries of Blackadder water; and two of them run for a considerable way respec- tively on the southern and on the north-eastern boundary, while one — Langton-burn, a strong, clear stream — drains a large part of the parish, flows, for some time, between steep banks richly clothed in C'lpsewood, and afterwards meanders among the fine scenery of Langton wood. On a hill in the farm of Raecleugh-head are distinct traces of two military stations, supposed to have been Danish. On Camp-muir, in the farm of Langhope-birks, are traces of an encampment made by a party of troops, both foot and horse, stationed there, in the reign of William and Mary, to overawe the Jacobites. In the vicinity of a place called Battle-moor, several urns and stone-coffins have been found. The an- cient little town of Langton straggled over a length of about half a mile, and during tbe unsettled period of the international wars, was a place of some consequence. Ijike other border towns, it suffered at diflerent times from incursions, and, "in particular, was burned in 1558 by Sir Henry Percy and Sir George Bowes. But, in 1760, it was peace- fully rased to the ground, and substituted, at about half a mile from its site, by the pleasant modern village of Gavinton. The estate of Langton, in- cluding very nearly all tlie parish, as well as part of Dunse and Longformacus, was purchased, in 1758, by David Gavin, Esq., and immediately made the scene of georgical and planting operations, which raised it to opulence and mantled it in beauty. Through his daughter, who became first Marchioness LANG^YALL. 29G LARGIEBEG. of Breadalbane, it passed into tiie possession of the ; present Marquis; and now — with the fine mansion ' andornate fjrounds of Langton-honse in itscentre— is ' one of the loveliest spots in the iMerse. The parish is traversed bv the road from Dunse to Lauder, j Population in iS31, 443; in 1861.502. Houses, 104. I This parish is in the presbytery of Dunse, and i spiod of Merse and Teviotdale." Patron, the Marquis | of Breadalbane. Stipend, £214 19s. lid.; glebe, | £24 28. Schoolmaster's salary is now £50, with about £15 fees. The parish church stands at tlie west end of Gavinton. and was built ill 1798. 'J'lieie I is a Free ciiurch ; and the aniount of its receipts in | 1865 was £167 8s. 6d. There is a parociiial ' library. During the reisrn of David I., tlie manor of Langton, with the advowson of the churcli, be- longed to Roger de Ow, a follower of Earl Henry, the heir-apparent of the throne. De Ow gave the church, with its pertinents, to the monks of Kelso; and was succeeded in the possession of the manor, first by the family of Vetereponte or Vipont, one of whotn fell in the battle of Bannockbuvn, and next by the family of Cockburn, one of whom was cre- ated a baronet by Charles I., and the last of whom sold it to Mr. Gavin. LANGWALL (Tiik), an alpine stream of the parish of Latheron, in Caithness-shire. It rises within 2 miles of the boundary with Sutherland- shire, and runs eastward to a confluence with the Berriedale, immediately above the latter's influx to the sea. Its length of course is about 12 miles. LANRICK. See Kilmadock. LANRIG. See Longridge. LANTON, a village in the parish of Jedburgh, Roxburglishire. It stands a little east of the Hawick and Kelso road, 2^ miles west-north-west of the town of Jedburgh, and 9 miles north-east of Hawick. The road from it to Jedburgh passes over the Dunian. The village has a parochial school. Population, 175. Houses, 49. LANY, an ancient parish in the Monteilh dis- trict of Perthshire. Its church belonged to the priory of Inchmahomc, and was granted, at the Reformation, to the Karl of Mar. The parish was dismembered in 1615, and part of it annexed to Port-of- Mon tei th . LAOGHAL (Locn), a lake on the mutual boun- dary of the parishes of Tongue and Farr in Sutlier- landshire. It is the largest of a chain of lakes, whose superfluence forms the river Borgie. Its length is 5 miles, extending northward ; and its breadth is upwards of one mile. Its appearance is picturesque, with two islets on its bosom, frequented by wild fowl, and with rich verdure on its banks and flanking hills, besides a beautiful fringing of wood. LAOIDEAN (Loch), a lake, about 8 miles west of the head of Loch-Rannoch, in the parish of For- tingal, Perthshire. Its length is about 6 miles, ex- tending westward, and its breadth is about h a mile. It has many little bosky creeks and headlands, and is gemmed with several finely wooded islets. LAPPOCH, a dangerous rock, about 100 yards long, and dry at low water, in the bay of Ayr. It lies about 1^ mile south-soiith-west of the bar of Irvine ; and is in a line with Irvine steeple, the half-tide rock, and Lady-Isle: See Lady-Isle. Be- tween it and the coast is a broad channel from 7 to 8 fathoms deep. LAR.'VN-BUIIN, a rivulet, rising on Shannan- hill, and running southward along the mutual boundary of the parishes of Row and Luss to the Fruin at Inverlaran, in Dumbartonshire. LARBERT, a parish in the east of Stirlingshire. It contains the Carron ironworks, the villages of Larbert, "West Carron, Kinnaird, and Stenhousemuir, the post-office stations of Carron and Larbert. and part of the post-ofHce village of Carronshore. It ig bounded Ijy St. Ninians, Airth, Kothkennar, Falkirk, and Dunipace. Its length east-north-eastward is nearly 3 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 2.^ miles. The river Carron traces all the southern l)0undary ; and the streamlet called the Pow runs a short distance on the northern boundary. The general surface of the parish slopes gradually from south-west to north-east; but its highest ground has an altitude of only about 100 feet above the level of the sea, and occurs at the site of La'rbert mansion- house, whence there is an abrupt descent to the Carron. Nearly all parts command a brilliant and extensive prospect athwart the carses of Stirling and Falkirk, and along the north flank of the Forth from the Oeliil hills to Queensferiy. The soil is alluvial, partly light and dry, but more generally argillaceous. Rocks of the coal formation, comprising sandstone, several seams of coal, and some strata of balls of clay ironstone, underlie the alluvium. About 200 acres of the surface are occupied by plantations and pleasure grounds; and all the rest of the land is arable. Tlie coals and the ironstone are exten- sively worked. The appearance of the parish un- derwent a total change, comprising immense im- provement in almost everything affecting its in- terests, immediately after the establishment of the Canon ironworks. There are eight landowners, additional to the Carron Company. The principal residences are Larbert-house, Glenbervie, Kinnaird, CaiTonhall, and Carron-park. A famous extinct antiquity was Arthur's Oven: which see. A Roman causeway, communicating fiom Carmuirs in Falkirk to Stirling castle, traversed the parish, and has left some vestiges. Some Roman millstones and fragments of Roman pottery have been dug up. An interesting object is the residence of the Abys- sinian traveller, Bruce. See the article Kinxaird. The chief manufactures and commerce are noticed in the article Carkon-Works. 'Within this parish are held the Falkirk great cattle fairs. See Falkirk. The parish is traversed by the road from Edinburgh to Stirling, and contains the junction of the Scottish Central railway with the branches thence to the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway. The villag ■ of Larbert stands along the Edinburgh and Stirling ro id, at a point 2 miles north-west of Falkirk, and 9 miles south-south-east of Stirling, and is delightfully situated. Population of the village, 487. Houses, 127. Population of the parish in 1831,4,248; in 1861, 4,999. Houses, 628. Assessed property in 1860, £34,452. This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and synod of Perth and Stirling; and it is united to the parish of Dunipack — which see. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £322 10s. Id.; glebe. £25. Un- appropriated teiiids, £1,174 15s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary, now £60. with about £120 fees. The par- ish church was built in 1820, and is a beautiful structure in the Elizabethan style, after a design bv Hamilton of Glasgow. There is a Free church of Larbert; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £225 15s. lOd. There are an endowed imn- parochial school, five unendowed schools, a parochial liimxry, and a friendly society. The ancient church of Larbert was a chapel subordinate to the church of St. Ninians, and was given, along with that church, by one of the bishops of St. Andrews, to the monks of Cambuskenneth. LAllG, See Inch, Wigtonshire. LARGIEBEG, a small" headland. 3^ miles south of the south entrance of Lamlash-bay, on the eas1 coast of the island of Arran. LARGO. 297 LAEGO. LARGO, a parish on the south coast of Fifeshire. It contains the post-office station of Largo, and the villages of Upp^r Largo or Kirkton, Lundinmill, Woodside, New Gilston or Backmuir of Gilston, and Lower Largo, comprising Temple and Drum- ochy. It is bounded by Largo bay on the frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Scoonie, Ceres, Kil- conquhar, and Newburn. Its length southward is nearly 6 miles ; and its average breadth is about 3 miles ; but its extent of coast-line is only about 2f miles. The shore is in general low and sandy ; but the ground soon begins to rise towards the nortli. The general surface of the parish is exceedingly diversified by rising grounds and valleys, and beau- tifully ornamented with wood of various kinds. On the east side, at the distance of about 2 miles from the shore. Largo-law rises to the height of about 950 feet above the level of the sea. It is of a beau- tiful conical form, green to the summit, where it is cleft in two, and exhibits a series of basaltic columns. From this hill, a splendid and extensive view of the whole surrounding country, the frith of Forth and its islands, and the opposite shore of the Lothians, is obtained. West of Largo-law a deep ravine, called Keil's den, through which flows a small burn, intersects the parish from north to south, for about 2 miles. It is finely wooded, is exceedingly pic- turesque, and forms a favourite walk for persons residing at Largo during the summer for the benefit of sea-bathing. About 5,935 acres of the total area are in tillage ; about 290 are in pasture ; and about 595 are under wood. The rocks are partly crystal- line of the eruptive kind, and partly stratified, be- longing to the coal formation. Coal of poor quality is worked; excellent sandstone is quarried; and grey limestone occurs in some places 15 feet thick. The soil in the north is generally thick black mould on a wet bottom ; in the south, partly of a light character, but more commonly a black loam, in- cumbent variously on a wet and on a dry subsoil. The most extensive landowners are Durham of Largo and the Standard Assurance Company; there are seven other chief landowners ; and five have mansions within the parish, and two have mansions in its vicinity. The most conspicuous residence is that of Largo, an elegant and very spacious edifice, built in 1750, situated on a pleasant slope with a southern exposure, a little west of Upper Largo, amid richly ornamented pleasure-grounds, and com- manding an extensive and most brilliant prospect. The barony of Largo was conferred by James III., in 1482, by charter under the great seal, on Sir Andrew Wood, his naval commandei", in acknow- ledgment for his brilliant achievements against the English. The real rental of the parish in 1837 was about £8,500. Assessed property in 1843, £10,814 18s. 8d. The village of Lower Largo stands at the mouth of Keil-burn, at the top of Largo bay, and middle of the coast-Une of the parish, 2^ miles east- north-east of Leven, and 3i west by south of Colins- burgh. Its harbour is not in good order, but might, without much expense, be rendered one of the best on the south coast of Fifeshire. A trade was carried on here, in old times, with Holland in coal, salt, iron, sandstone, and other heavy ai-ticles, and more recently with Norway in timber ; but all this has, for a considerable time, been at an end. Much facility of communication landward, and to the fer- ries of the Forth and the Tay, is enjoyed by -vncinitv to the Leven railway. The population of Lower Largo is 265; of whom 156 are in Drnmochy, and 109 are in Temple. The village of Upper Largo, or Kirkton of Largo, stands about § of a mile to the east-north-east of Lower Largo, on the road to Colinsburgh and St. Andrews. Its population is 423, and its houses 77. There are in the parish two factories, the one of small extent for cleaning flax, and the other for spinning it. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,567; in 1861, 2,626. Houses, 518. This parish contains some interesting antiquities. Within the grounds of Largo-house is a circular tower, which formed part of the old castle inhabited by Sir Andrew Wood, and which, it is alleged, once formed a jointure house of the queens of Scotland. On the banks of Keil burn, to the north of Largo- house, is an old square tower, part of the castle of Balcruvie, anciently also called Pitcnivie. In all probability this castle was erected by Sir John Lindsay, as a separate residence during his fathers lifetime. The tradition is, that Balcruvie belonged to the family of Crawford; but this is a mistake originating in the fact that the fiimily of Lindsay, at a subsequent period, succeeded to the estates and titles of the Earl of Crawford. In the centre of the present house of Lundin, which is of modern erec- tion, there is a square tower of great antiquity, which formed part of the ancient castle of Lundin, the residence of a famil}'- of the name of Lundin, who held propert)'^ here of great extent so early as the reign of David II. South-east of Lundin-hou.'-e, between it and the high road, are three upright stones, of red sandstone, commonly called " the standing stones of Lundin." These are of great size, and bear no trace of any sculpture or inscrip- tion. Some persons have thought them to be of Koman origin ; others have thought them to be memorial stones of Danish chiefs who fell here in battle in the time of Macbeth ; but others, with much more probability, suppose them to be part of a Druidical temple. Ancient sepulchres are found near them. A Kunic stone stands on a pedestal in the lawn in front of Largo house. It consists of two pieces, which were found, a considerable num- ber of years ago, at places a mile asunder, and were put into their present position ijy General Durham. This singular monument presents on the one side a Maltese cross, something like that on the cross at Crail ; the upper part of the stone presenting a circle, ornamented in the style of a part of Crail cross, and one of the side slabs of the St. Andrews sarcophagus. On the right side of the body of the cross, below the transepts, are two fishes or serpents entwined, having heads like horses; and on the left, something like a figure sitting having an elephant's head, of which the trunk is apparent. The body of the cross has been ornamented with a variety of carving, some of wliich would appear to have been serpents intertwined. The reverse side of the monument represents the usual hunting-scene which this class of remains almost invariably represents. On an artificial rising-ground or tunuilus to the north of Largo-house, called Norrie's law, there were found, about the year 1819, some pieces of silver defensive armour, together with a number of small silver Koman coins of the earlier emperors. Two remarkable natives of this parish were Alex- ander Selkirk, the prototype of Robinson Crusoe, and Sir John Leslie, the distinguished natural philosopher. This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife. Patron, Durham of Lai'go. Stipend, £268 16s. 4d.; glebe, £31. Unappropri- ated teinds, £135 10s. lOd. Si'hoobnaster's salary, now £57 15s., with about £20 fees. The parish church comprises part of an old building with a spire erected in 1623, and a new building erected in 1817; and it contains upwards of 800 sittings. There is a Free church ; and the amount of its re- ceipts in 1865 was £142 2s. .5d. There are in Lower Largo an United Presbyterian church and a LARGO-BAY. 298 LARGS. Baptist chapel. There are within the parish four schools, a siihseriptiou libi-ary, a weekly corn-market, an office of the National hank, a savings' bank, and an institution called Wood's-hospital for the main- tenance of indigent persons. This last oriprinated in a bequest of £68,418 Scots, by John Wood in 1659; and, in its present form, was built in 1830, at the cost of £2,000. It is an elegant and ornamental edifice, in the Elizabathan style, containing accom- modation for 16 inmates. LAEGO-BAY, an indentation of the frith of Forth on the south coast of Fifesliire. It has a somewhat semicircular outline; is llaiiked on the east side by Kincraig-point, in the pxnsh of Elie, and on the west side by Methili-point. in the parish of Wemyss; and it measures about 6 miles in width between these points, and penetrates the land to the extent of about 2J miles. Iti some parts of it, especially in the east, are very distinct vestiges of a submarine forest. LARGOWARD. See Kilcoxquhar. LARGS, a parish, containing the post-town of Largs and the post-office village of Fairlej^, in tlie extreme north-west of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded by the frith of Clyde, by Renfrewsliire, and by the parishes of Kilbirnie, Dairy, and West Kilbride. Its length southward is about 9 miles; and its greatest breadth is 3| miles. The hills which begin to rise in the parishes of Greenock, Kilmalcolm. Lochwinnooli, Kilbimie, and Dairy, meet in a kind of general summit at the eastern boundary of Largs, and hem it in so curiously from all the cultivated country to the north, east, and south-east, as to have occasioned the proverbial ex- pression, " Out of the world, and into the Largs." The uplands gradually descend as they approach the shore; and they terminate in abnipt declivities, some of which are almost perpendicular, as if part of their base had been forcefully dissevered. Yet, though the hills are high, they have generally a coat of prime pastoral verdure, and, in most instances, exhibit undoubted marks of having once been cropped with grain. For a mile from the northern boundary, the uplands form at their base a bulwark of rock, rising in some places 50 or 60 feet above the road, and seeming to overhang it. South of the point where this tenuinates, a conical mountain, green to the top, contributes a feature alike bold and beautiful to the landscape. Farther south, the grounds fall off in gentle gradients, and yield in fine slopes to the course of a large indigen- ous brook, called Noddle or Xoddesdale water. Be- yond this, and behind the town of Largs, the countiy opens into a beautiful plain of nearly a mile in breadth from the foot of the mountains to the sea- Ijeach. All this sea-board both exhibits in its flank- ing hills and commands outwards over the frith a series of beautiful and romantic landscapes. Its coast-line is almost parallel with that of Bute, and looks right across to that beautiful island, to the en- trance of the Kyles of Bute, to Toward-Point in Cowal, to a profusion of fine headlands, wooded slopes, and broken surfaces coming down thence, and from the Larger Cumbrae. to kiss the waters of the Clyde, and to the magnificent alpine scenery which rises up in the distance, and makes acquaint- ance with the clouds. Great improvements have, in recent years, been made in the reclaiming and fertilizing of lands. About 1,145 acres, at present, are in tillage, 3,300 in grass-land and meadow, 5,500 in hill pasture, 600 in woodlands and gardens, and 8,598 in moorish and heathy upland. The pre- dominant rocks are old red sandstone and trap. Sandstone, of good quality for local building, has been extensively quarried. Two burns run on the boundary with Renfrewshire, one of Ihem westward into the frith of Clyde, the other northward into Renfrewshire; and two other and larger burns, the Noddle and the Gogo, rise on the eastern border and run through the interior into the frith of Clyde, the former a little north of the town of Largs, the latter at the south end of that town. The fisheries along the coast are of considerable valnc The most exteni?ive landowners are the Earl of Glasgow and General Sir T. M. Brisbane, Bart. ; the landowners next in extent are the Earl of Eglinton and Scott of Hawkhill; and there are 15 other land- owners. Kelburn-house, a seat of the Earl of Glas- gow, 1 J mile south-east of the town of Largs, and A a mile from the shore, was originally a square tower, and was modernised by enlargement. Im- mediately behind it, in the grounds connected with it, is a gien J of a mile long, of remarkably romantic character. At the head of the glen is an abnipt, rough, lofty precipice, over which leaps a brook into a path just wide enough to permit tiie flow of its waters. From the sides of the path, the gi'ound rapidly ascends, mountain high, forming a chasm which, if naked, would be tremendous, but which is so clothed with trees, and othei-wise decorated by art, as to be beautiful. Near the house, the brook leaps over another precipice, 50 feet sheer down, into a vast basin which seems scooped out of both sides of the glen. Brisbane-house, the seat of General Sir T. M. Brisbane, Bart., 3 1 mile north of the town, is a fine mansion, surrounded with picturesque grounds. Skelmorly-castle, 2 miles farther north, the property of the Earl of Eglinton, was built partly in 1502, and partly in 1636, and is at present being greatly improved and enlarged. Knock-castle, built about 3G0 years ago by a family of the Erasers, was lately acquired by Robert Steele, Esq., who has repaired it. and has built at a little distance from it a magnificent edifice with a tower. The castle of Fairley, built in 1521, and now belonging to the Earl of Glasgow, was the property' of the ancient family of Fairley, said to be descended from a natural son of Robert IL, and will be re- membered as the scene of the ballad ' Hardiknute.' See Fairley. A small hill called Margaret's-Law, having been opened in 1772, in search of materials for enclosures, was found to be an artificial ac- cumulation of stones, amounting to 15,000 cart- loads, and having in its centre five stone-coffins with human skulls and bones, and earthen unis, which were believed to have been there since the battle of Largs. This battle was fought on the 2d October, 1263, between Haco of Norway, and Alexander III. of Scotland. Haco, to enforce his claims on the sovereignty of the Hebrides, sailed up the frith of Clyde with a numerous fleet and army, and anchored in the sound between the coast and the Cumbraes. Alexander had used eveiy stra- tagem to gain time, and at length lay encamped, with about 1,500 well-appointed cavalry, and a nu- merous host of inferior soldiery, on the heights be- hind Largs overlooking the sea. On the night pre- ceding the 2d October, Haco suflTered vast damage from a storm blowing right up the frith upon his fleet; and, in the morning, he was obliged, while most of his forces were either drowned oi- stniggling for the preservation of his remaining ships, to effect an embarrassed landing with a dispirited band only about 900 in number. Instantly confronted with the fresh and strong force of Alexander, part of the Norwegian little army was driven back into the sea, and part retired sword in hand, fighting all the way, to a place a little below Kelbum. A few more of the Norwegians having landed, the apparently over- powering force of Alexander was resisted in a ecu- LARGS. 299 LAEGS. tinuous fight, till the cloud of night sheltered Haco's little shattered remnant, and allowed them to with- draw to their ships. Haco got leaA'e from the Scot- tish king peacefully to inter his numerous followers who had fallen; and, in a few days aftei-wards, he collected the relics of his fleet, and sailed away to Orkney, there to die in Decemher luider the pres- sure of his sorrow. The cliief scene of the contest was a plain to tlie sontli of the town, immediately below Haylee, still retaining some small memorials of the fight. Within the parish of Dairy, immedi- ately beyond the south-east boundary of Largs, is a farm called Camphill, where the Scottish army are said to liave encamped pi-evious to the engagement. Between that place and the town of Largs, is Eout- don-burn, having on its bank a cairn in which a stone-cofiin was found, and supposed to have re- ceived its name of Eoutdon or Roucdane. from having been the place where a detachment of Haco's army were routed. Some way down the burn is Burly- gate; nearer the sea, in the Earl of Ghisgow's plan- tations, is Killing-craig; and farther to the south is Kepping-bum, where, it is said, a number of the fleeing Norwegians were met Iw Sir Robert Boyd, ancestor of the Eirls of Kilmarnock, afterwards the tried friend of Robert Bmce, and put to the sword. The parish is traversed by the road from Greenock to Ardrossan, and enjoys ample facilities of com- munication by steamboat. Population in 1831, 2,848; in 1861. 3,620. Houses, 550. Real rental in 1842, £7,500. Assessed prooerty in 1860, £21,316. This parish is in the presbytery of Greenock, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton. Stipend, £296 I5s. 7d.; glebe, £36 8s. Unappropriated teinds, £625 9s. Td. Schoolmaster's salary, £70. The parish cliurch was built in 1812, and enlarged in 1833, and contains 1,263 sittings. Tliere is a chapel of ease at Faiiley, built in 1883, and containing 300 sittings. Tliere is also a chapel of case at Skelmorly. There are two Free churches, tlie one at Largs, with an attendance of 490, the otiier at Fairley, with an attendance of 150; and the sum raised in connexion with the former in 1S65 was £619 10s. lid., — in connexion with the latter, £212 12s id. There is an United Presbyterian church, which was built in 1826, and contains 690 sittings. There is also an Episcopalian chapel, called St. Coluraba's. There are an endowed school, called the Brisbane school, a school of industry for females, a Free churcli school, a Free church school of industiy for females, a Free church infant school, and two private schools. The district of Cunning- ham appears to have ancienth' formed two distinct territories, — the southern and larger one called Cunningham, and the northern and smaller one called Largs. On the death of Alan, lord of Galloway, in 1234, the lordship of Largs was inherited by his daughter Devorgilla; from her it passed to her son John Baliol, the competitor for the Scottish crown ; and on his forfeiture, it was conferred by Robert Bruce on his son-in-law, Walter, the steward of Scotland. Hitherto the church had been a rectory; but now it was given by Walter to the monks of Paisley, and it continued with them till the Re- formation. In 1587, the tithes and patronage, in common with the other property of the monks, were erected into a temporal lordship, with the title of Lord Paisley, iu favour of Lord Claud Hamilton. In 1621, they were inherited bj' James, Earl of Abercorn; and in the reign of Charles I., thev passed to Sir Robert Montgomeiy of Skelmorly. The church was dedicated to St. Columba. The Town of Largs st;^ids on the coast of the \>arisli of Largs, and on the road from Greenock to Ardiossan, 1| mile north-east of the north end of the Big Cumbrae, 8 miles by water east-south-east of Rothesay, 8h south of Innerkip, 9 north-west of Kilbirnie, and 30 north-north-west of Ayr. Its site is a large deposit of gravel, which must at one time have formed part of the bottom of the frith. The view from it seaward is that extensive, diversified, and very brilliant one which we have noticed in our account of the pai-ish. Its environs inland are first a rich tract of corn land, in a high state of cultiva- tion and beautifully ornamented, and next a series of glades, glens, and grassy slopes, among the skirts of the enclosing hills. Its atmosphere is compara- tively pure and dry; and its general salubrity en- ables it to compete stoutly with Rothesay, the' fame of being the Montpellier of the west of Scotland. The beach in its neighbourhood is broad, gravelly, and good for sea-bathing. A quay in front of the town has sufficient accommodation for the safe and speedy landing of passengers and goods. An esplanade of considerable breadth extends between the quay and the town. A ten'ace or single- sided street, pleasingly edificed, overlooks the esplanade. A main street, of fair character for both airiness and architecture, extends inland tiience, and forms the backbone of the town. Villas and other houses of a superior kind stand on the outskirts or look toward the shore. House accommodation of gieat aggregate extent, and of much variety of character, but gene- rail}' comfortable or elegant, exists for hire. And altogether the town is well worthy- of a repute which it obtained at the very commencement of the era of steamboat navigation, and has continued to possess to the present day, as a favourite summer resort of families from Glasgow and other seats of manufac- ture on the Clyde. Largs ranks as a creek of the port of Greenock. Its quay was built in 1834, at the cost of £4,275; and the average revenue from it yields a return of about 6 per cent. The affairs of the harbour aie managed by a committee. Six steamers touch daily in summer, and two daily in winter, on their way between Glasgow and intermediate places on the one side, and Millport, Ardrossan, or Arran on the other; and they Iiave access to the pier at all states of the tide, the depth of water almost at the very shore being several fathoms. A large part of the inhabitants depend mainly on rents and profits drawn from summer visitors; a few are maintained by the fisheries ; and a considerable number are handloom weavers, in the employment of the Glas- gow manufacturers. A weekly market is held on Thursday ; and annual fairs are held ori the first Tuesday of February, the Tuesday after the 12th day of June, the third Tuesdaj' of July, and the fourth Tuesday of October. The June fair falls on St. Columba's day, vulgarly called Colm's day; and, tliough now of very diminished importance, it was anciently a grand rendezvous of Highlanders and Lowlanders for the mutual exchange of their com- modities, and probably exhibited more grotesque scenes of manners and traffic than any which can now be witnessed in Scotland. The town has ofiices of the National Bank, the City of Glasgow Bank, and the Royal Bank, eight insurance agencies. a gas-light company, a reading-room, two circulating libraries, and some other institutions. An elegant suite of baths was built in 1816 by public subscription. The parish church is a handsome as well as con- spicuous edifice, and has a tower and spire of much more than ordinary pretensions to beauty. In the grave-yard iu the town is the burying-place of the Montgomerys of Skelmorly, an aisle of singular character, belonging to the former church, and built iu 1636 by Sir Robert Montgomery. It is richly LARKHALL. 300 LASSWADE. and tastefully carved, and forms an arch and two compartment's, supported by 18 pillars of the Cor- intliian order, surmounted with clierubiii\. Above tlie arch is a small pyramid, finished at top with a fflobe. On tlie roof arc painted the twelve signs of tiie zodiac, several views of the mansion of .Sicel- morlv, and the figure of a lady, a member of tlie Skelinorly family, receiving a mortal kick from a horse. In various parts are also texts of Scripture and escutcheons. Below is a vault, to which .Sir Robert usually repaired at night for devotion and meditation, — in a sense burying himself alive. At each end of tiie town is a moat, supposed to have been the seat of feudal courts of justice. On a small holm at Outterwards, on Noddle-burn, were discov- ered the foundations of several huts or cottages, said to have been the retreat of nnmbers of the in- habitants from a visit of tlie plague which, in 1644, desolated the town. Largs has no charter of any kind to regulate its government, and is under little other control than that of tlie county authorities. A justice of peace court for small debts is held on the first Monday of every month. Three men of the coast guard are stationed in the town. Population in 18G1, 2,038. Houses, 380. LARKHALL, a post-office village in the parish of Dalserf, Lanaikshire. It stands close to the boundary w-ith Hamilton parish, and on the road leading from Glasgow to Carlisle, midway between the Avon and tlie Clyde, 3i miles south-east of the town of Hamilton. It stands chiefly on the Rap- loch property, but partly also on the Hamilton pro- perty. The Lesmahago branch of the Caledonian railway passes adjacent to it. The inhabitants are principally handloom-weavers and miners, the former employed for the manufacturers of Glasgow, and the latter in the collieries, which have been rapidly extending in the neighbourhood. Tiie village was commenced, with slight exceptions, about the year 1776. It did not undergo any great increase for 15 or 20 years; and it afterwards was rapidly enlarged, principally by means of building societies. It has a salubrious air, good water, and abundance of fuel and sandstone. Its neighbourhood is largely studded with hamlets, rows of houses, and separate dwell- ings, which may be regarded as coalescing with it to form a considerable town. A chapel-of-ease w s built here in 1835 as an extension church, at the cost of about £900, and contains 720 sittings. It has recently been endowed by the Duke of Hamil- ton, and erected into a quoad sacra parish cliuich. An United Presbyterian church, then a Relief church, was built about the same time as the chapel of ease, and contains 700 sittings. There are in the village a side parish school, two other schools, a subscription library, a branch of the City of Glasgow bank, a savings' bank, a mason lodge, and one or two benefit societies. Population of the village in 1841, inclusive of territory which was then con- joined with it in a temporary quoad sacra parish, 2,453. Population of the village itself in 1831, 963; in 18G1, 2,685. Houses, 424. LARKHALLBURN. See Jedburgh. LARO (Loch), a small lake in the parish of Criech, Sutherlandshire. LAROCH. See Ballachulish. LARRISTON, an estate in the parish of Castle- ton, Roxburghshire. It is situated upon the Liddle, about 6 miles above Newcastleton. It comprises about 5,000 acres, and contains excellent sheep-walk. It was at one time the seat of a chief of the Elliots, whose fame has been commemorated in Hogg's spirited ballad,- - "Lnek tlie rloni, Larriston, lion of Liddcsd.ile ; Lock the duor, Larriston, Lowtlier coinys on; The Armstronfrs are flying, 'I'lie widows are crying, The Castletown's burning, and Oliver's gone!" LASSWADE, a parish, containing the post-oflice villages of Lasswade, Loanhead, Roslin, and Rose- well, in Edinburghshire. It is bounded by Colinton, Uberton, Dalkeith, Newbattle,Cockpen, Carrington, Penicuick, and Glencross. Its length north-nortli- eastward is 8 miles; its greatest breadth is 6 miles; but nowhere, except over a very brief distance at its north end, is it broader than 3 miles. A projecting wing at its north-west extremity is occupied by tiie eastern termination of the Pentland hills, covered partly with heath, and partly with fine pasture. An extensive tract, from the southern boundary to about 2 miles into the interior, is moorish and mossy upland, bleak and unsheltered. The rest of the surface, comprising much the greater part, is a rieh and beautiful plain, generally fertile in its soil, primely managed in its husbandry, opulently shaded and adorned with wood, and very picturesquely featured and diversified in its scenery. About l,0(tO acres are covered with wood. The North Esk comes down upon a point about a mile from the south-west extremity, runs 1^ mile along the western boundary, and then, assuming a north-north-easterly direction, cuts the rest of the parish into nearly equal parts. Its bed, while traversing the plain, is a deep, romantic, sinuous, bold ravine; paved in many places, at the bottom, with ledging and variform rocks ; often steep, perpendicular, and even over- hanging on its sides; and almost everywhere, in tiny plain, or slope, or swell, or precipice, profusely adorned with shrubs and trees. Recesses, contrac- tions, angularities, rapid and circling sinuosities, combine with the remarkably varied surface of its sides to render its scenery equal in mingled pictur esqueness and romance to any in Scotland. The river seems all the way to be mei'rily frolicsome ; now rushing along a shelving gradient, now hiding itself behind rocks and weeping wood, and making sudden but always mirthful ti-ansitions in its course. The rocks of most of the lowland tracts of the parish belong to the coal formation, and comprise very abundant supplies of coal, limestoiie, and sandstone. The coal is worked principally in the vicinity of Loanhead and of Rosewell. The estate of Dryden alone was I'ecently computed to contain not less than 30,000,000 tons. A coal-mine on the boundary with Liberton was accidentally set on fire about the year 1770; and it burned upwards of 20 j'eais in spite of every effort to extinguish its fire. The principal landowners are Lord Melville, Sir James \V. Drummond, Bart., Sir George Clerk, Bart., Gib- son of Pentland, Ramsay of Wliitehill, Sir Norman M. Lockhart. Bart., Arbuthnot of Mavisbank, Mercer of Dryden. the Earl of Rosslyn, the Earl of Rose- berry, and several others. Along the vale of the North Esk, crowning its precipices, or sitting ensconced in its fairy nooks, are various interesting ancient edifices, and a series of modern mansions and villas. The most remark- able of the former ai-e the castle and the chapel of RosLiN, and the old mansion and the caves of Haw- THOKNDEx: which see. Among the numerous gen- tlemen's seats which line both sides of the river, Mavisbank, i-esembling an Italian villa, Dryden and Rosebank, on the left bank, and Springfield, Auch ■■ indinny, Polton, Glenesk, Goston, and Eldin, on the right bank, are the chief. Eldin, the last of these, was the seat of John Clerk, Esq., the author of the celebrated work on naval tactics. Many villas and cottages straggle along at intervals, or hang on the outskirts of Lasswade and Roslin ; and are occupied chiefly as summer-houses, as scenes of ruralizing. LASS WADE. 301 LASSWADE. 01- as places of convalescence, by the citizens of Eilinburgh. One of the cottages near the village of Lasswade was the residence, during some of the happiest years of his life, of Sir Walter Scott. But tlie grandest modern structure is Melville-castle, situated nearly a mile below the village of Lass- wade, on a secluded but charming piece of low ground, on the left margin of the Esk, surrounded by high banks, picturesque, wooded, and adorned. This fine castellated edifice, with circular towers, the seat of Viscount Melville, was built near the end of last century on tlie site of an ancient edifice of the same name, which tradition incorrectly says belonged to David Rizzio, and was occasionally in- habited by Mary. Melville-castle was visited in 1822, and much admired, by George IV. Near the house of Mavisbank is a supposed Roman station, pointed out in General Roy's maps as the place where the Romans passed the North Esk on their way to Cramond. The chief object is a circulnr eartlien mound of considerable height, begirt with ramparts, now cut into terraces; where have been found antique weapons, bridle bits, surgical instru- ments, and other relics. In a neighbouring ftirm is a tumulus, whence have been dug urns filled with burnt bones. Near Roslin is the scene of a battle, i>r ratlier of three battles in one day, fought, on the 24tli of February, 1303, between the Scotch and the English, conflictingly narrated by the historians of tlie two nations, but painted by those of Scotland in colours not a little flattering to Scottish bravery. During a truce, Ralph Confrey, treasurer to Edward I., invaded Scotland at the head of 30,000 men, well-armed, and mostly horsemen. With a view to plimder, he divided them into three bodies, and, on reaching the neighbourhood of Roslin, encamped them in three stations. Hearing of his invasion, Sir Simon Eraser and Sir John Comyn drew together at Biggar as many men as they could hastily muster, amounting to 8,000, or at most to 10,000; and with these they expeditiously marched in search of tlie enemy. Falling unexpectedly on the first division of the English, the Scottish forces totally overthrew and routed them, driving those who escaped the sword and capture confusedly back on the second camp. While the Scotch were dividing the spoil, file second Englisli division, suddenly alarmed, and in motion, precipitated themselves to the conflict, and met the same fate as the first division. Scarcel}'' had the Scotch begun to take a refreshment, when a third army appeared in view; and tlie Scotch, thougli thinned in numbers and exhausted by fatigue, rushed impetuously on this third army, and overthrew it also. Blundering tactics on the English side, and skill and animation on the side of the Scotch, thus worked ont fm- the latter the boast of conquering in one day tliree armies, each of which was fully equal to them ill numbers, and probably superior in ap- pointments. Within the parish, cliiefly in its central parts along the Esk, are a bleachfield, four paper-mills, two corn-mills, a very extensive gunpowder manu- factory, and a manufactory of fine carpets and damasks. The carpet manufactory was established in 1834; and it soon rose into extensive notice, and became famous for its produce. The parish has long been celebrated fin* its oatmeal. Through the recommendation, as is believed, of the first Lord Mel- ville, its produce in this article, drew the notice of George III., became the breakfast material of his numerous family during their years of childhood, and was regularly furnished to the royal residence by a miliar of the village of Lasswade. The parish is traversed by the Peebles railway, and has stations on it for Hawthornden, Roslin, and Peiiicuick. Its limits also lie near the railway stations of Bonnyiigj; and Eskbank. It is also traversed crosswise by the road from Edinburgh to Peebles, and lengthwise by that from Edinburgh to Dumfries, by way of How- gate. The village of Lasswade stands on the Edin- burgh and Peebles road, and on the left bank of the North Esk, 2 miles west-south-west of Dalkeith, and 6 miles south-south-east of Edinburgh. Its site comprises the slopes and bottom of a very romantic part of the dell of the Esk ; and is united by a good stone bridge to the village of Westmill, on the right bank of the Esk, and politically comprehended in the parish of Cockpen. The two villages practically coalesce to form one little town, and they can chal- lenge comparison with any other little town in the kingdom for picturesqueness of both interior and en- virons ; but they stand on such exceeding irregu- larity of ground, as to want most of the ordinary conveniences of street arrangement. The stated population of Lasswade proper is about 300; but, owing to the influx of summer lodgers from Edin- burgh and elsewhere, the population in the summer months is much greater. Population of the parish in 1831, 4,252; in 18fil, 5,688. Houses, 1,0S0. Assessed property in I860, £21,832 lis. lid. This parisii is in the presbytery of Dalkeith, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sif George Clerk. Baronet. Stipend, £180 4s. Id.; glebe, £35. Unappropiiated teinds, £15 lis. Id. Schoolmaster's salary is now £60, with £48 fees. The palish church was built in 1793, and contains upwards of 1,000 sittings. It is a handsome edifice, most beautifully situated on a height overlooking the village of Lasswade. There is a chapel of ease at Roslin, built in 1827, and containing 444 sittings; and it is under the patronage of the male communi- cants. There is a Free cliurch at Roslin ; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £126 12s. 4d. There is also a Free church preacliing-station at Loaiihead ; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £198 13s. 11 Jd. There is an United Presbyterian church at Lasswade, built in 1830, and containing 655 sittings. There is also an United Presbyterian church at Bridgend, on the south-west border of the pai-ish, popularly, but incorrectly, designated ot Penicuick. There is a Reformed Presbyterian church at Loanhead, built about 68 years ago, and contain- ing 400 sittings. There are in the parish 12 non- parochial schools, and several benefit societies ; and there are subscription libraries at Lasswade and Loanhead, and a congregational library at Roslin. The present parish of Lasswade comprehends all the ancient parisli of Lasswade, the chief part of the ancient parish of Melville, and a considerable part of the ancient parish of Pentland. Lasswade was anciently the richest parish in Mi>i-Lotliian except St. Cutliberts. The church, with its pertinents, became, in the 12th century, a mensal church of the bishop of St. Andrews; it afterwards was a pre- bend of St. Salvator's college, St. Andrews; and, in the reign of James III., it was, by the Pope's au- thority, transferred to the dean of the collegiate cliurch of Restaliig. Long after the large accessions from Pentland on the west, and Melville on tlie north, were made to the territory, the old parochial place of worship, which had witnessed every change from before the Reformation till the final settlement of the Church of Scotland in her present form, con- tinued to be in use; and it now exists not far frcm its conspicuous modern successor, in the form of a frail ruin, timidly ensconced from the public gaze amidst a cluster of trees. One of its aisles is the Lurying-place of the noble family of Melville, and contains the ashes of the first Lord Mellville, the distinguished figurant in the ministrj' of Mr. Pitt. LATHERON. 502 LAUDEK. The name Lasswade is derivcil b\' Clialmers from two words, laeswe and wei/cle, which signify ' a well watered pasture of common use;' and this may be taken as a good description of the site of the villajre of Lisswade at the time when the original churcli was built. LATHALLAN. See Kilcosquhar. LATH ALMOND. See Duxpekmlixe. LATHERON, a parish on the south-eastern and soutiiern border of Caithiiess-sliire. It contains the post-office stations of Latheron and Berriedale, the post-office vilhige of Lybster, and the villages of Swiney and Dalbeath. It is bounded by the German ocein, b}- Sutherlandshire, and by the parishes of Halkirk, Watten, and Wick. Its length north- westward is 27 miles, and its general breadth varies from G| to 14 miles. Tiie coast h;is an extent nearly co-equal with the extreme length of the parish. It everywhere presents to the sea a bold vertical face of rock, from lUO to 300 feet high, but is much in- dented by inlets at the mouth of streams, forming very convenient, well-sheltered harbours for fishing boats; and it is pierced, at the line of watermark, with numerous caves, some of tliem fi'om 300 to oGO feet long, and frequented at all seasons by great numbers of seals. The interior surface of the parish is remarkably diversified, presenting a continued succession of hill and valley, sometimes in rapid alternation, and with bold features, strikingly con- trasted to the tame flat appearance of most other parts of the county. The boundary-line everywhere with Sutherlandshire, and partly also with Halkirk, amounting altogether to not less than 20 miles, is a lofty mountain waterslied ; and the interior thence, to the aggregate amount of one-third or so of the entire area of the parish, is lofty upland. The sum- mits in these parts have an altitude of from 1,500 to 3,000 feet above the level of the sea; and some of them command a most magnificent prospect, com- prising great part of twelve counties, together with a large extent of the Atlantic and the German oceans. Tlie height on the coast part of the boundary projects in so alpine a manner to the sea, that the public road over it, connecting Caithness-sliire with the rest of Scotland, passes over it at an altitude of 1,200 feet above sea-level. See Okd of Caithness. The loftiest interior summit is Morve.v, — which also see. The glens in some parts of the upland district, par- ticularly along the course of Langwell-water and Berriedale-water, exhibit as romantic and pictur- esque scenery as any in the Highlands. The prin- cipal stream, besides the Langwell and the Berrie- dale, is the Dunbeath ; and all the three rise on the western border and run eastward to the German ocean. But a head-stream of Thurso water, running northward to the North sea, drains the north-west district of the parish, and cari'ies off thence the superfluence of three or four small lakes. The pre- dominant rocks are variously clay flag-stone, the old red sandstone, the red sandstone conglomerate, and granite. The soil of the arable lands is of various quality, but in general shallow, shai'p, and gravelly, and in many parts encumbered with de- taclied rocks and large boulders. About 9,000 im- perial acres are in tillage ; about 9,000 are capable of being cheaply reclaimed; about 720 are under wood, chiefly copsewood ; and about 121,000 are pastoral or waste. The principal landowners are Sir George Sinclair, Bart., Sinclair of Freswick, Home of Langwell, Suthei'land of Forse, Gordon of Swiney, Lord Duffus, Sir Ralph A. Anstrutiier, Bart., Muiiro of Latheron, and Sinclair of Lybster. No fewer than eight old castles — Berriedale, Ach- astle, Dunbeath, Knockinnan, Latheron, Forse, Swine}-, and Clvth — stand on the coast, chiefly on the brink of rockj- cliffs ovei'hanging the sea. and capable originally of being cut off from connex- ion with the land by means of fosse and draw- bridge. Most of them are now in ruins, but that of Dunbeath is still inhabited. Seal-catching, in the caves of the coast, is a considerable emplojmient. Sea-fishing, particularly in the herring department, but also in the cod, the salmon, and the lobster de- partments, is a very extensive employmerit, engaging the main attention of a large proportion of the in- habitants, but conducted in an exciting manner, and not a little precarious. See the article Caithness. Tiie estimated yearlv value of raw produce in 1840 was £4(3,870; of which £19,200 was for herring, £250 for cod, and £3(i2 for salmon. Assessed pro- perty in 1860, £I.j,429 Os. Od. Population in LSDl, 7,020; in 1861, 8,571. Houses. 1,6U7. This parish is in the presbytery of Caithness, and synod of Sutiierland and Caithness. Patron, Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Stipend, £253 2s. lid.; glebe, £15. Unappropriated teinds, £191 15s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary is £50 10s., with from £20 to £30 fees. The parish chui'ch was built in 1734, and enlarged and repaired in 1822, and contains about 900 sittings. There is a government chui-ch at Ben-idale, built in 1826, and containing 312 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Lybster. built in 1836. containing 805 sittings, and under the patronajje of such male heads of families as are connnunicants. Tiiere are four Free churches, re- spectively at Latheron, at Berridale, at Lybster, and at Bi-uan ; and the receipts of the first in 1865 were £1 13 17s. 1 Id.,— of the second, £81 5s. lOd.,— of tlie third. £243 6s. 3d.,— of the fourth, £84 2s. 9d. There are 17 non-parochial schools, some of them supported by public bodies, and the rest conducted by private adventure. The distinguished Sir John Sinclair, so famous in the agricultural and statistical annals of Scotland, was an extensive landowner in Latheron, and resided much on bis estate here, and commenced on it some of his earliest georgical im- provements. The name I^atheron may have been derived either from Lathair rain, signifying the re- sort of seals, or from Latludr sJunm signifying the place of heroes. LA'J'HONRS, a post-office hamlet, in the parisii of Cameron, Fifeshire. It stands on the road from St. Andrews to Largo, nearly midway between these towns, and abont 3J miles east by south of Ceres. Here is an United Presbyterian church. LATHOCKAR. See Fifeshire. LATH RISK. See Kettle. LATRICK. See Cami,uslang. LATTERACII-BURN, a small stream, running along the mutual boundary of the parishes of Birnie and Dallas to the Lossie in Morayshire. Se3 Gleni.atteuach. LAUCHOPE. See Bothwell. LAUDER, a parish, consisting of a main body and a small detached section, in the district of Lauderdale, Berwickshire. The main body con- tains the post-town and royal liurgh of Lauder; and is bounded on the north by Haddingtonshire, — on the east by the parishes of Longformaeus, Cranshaw, "Westruther, and Legerwood, — on the south by ]?ox- burghshire, — and on the west by Edinburghshire, and by the parish of Channelkirk. Its length south- ward is 1 1 miles; and its greatest breadth is 7 miles. The detached section lies IJ mile south of the nearest jiart of the main body, is bounded partly by the parishes of Legerwood and Earlston, but prin- cipally by Roxburghshire; and measures about Ij mile in length eastward, and about 1§ mile in breadth. Leader water rises in the extreme north- west corner of the main body, flows 5^ miles along LAUDER. 303 LAUDER. the boundary with Channelkirk, runs 4;V miles south-eastward tlirough the interior, forms for f of a mile the boundary with Legerwood, and after traversing the intermediate space, traces the wliole eastern boundary of tlie detaclied section, and then passes away from the parish. Whaplaw-burn, 5J miles long, Earnscleuch-water, 6^ or 7 miles long, and Blythe-water, 7J or 8 miles long, all rise in various head-waters very near the north-east boundary, and flow south-westward to the Leader. The last of these streams — Blythe-water — ^jointly with its main tributary, traces for 6J miles the south-east boundary. Perennial springs, both many and copious, well up from sand or gravel, or from whinstone I'ock, and give an abundant supply of piime water. The boundary line along the north and tlie north-east, to the extent of 8- miles, is the water-shed of the Lammernioor hills, and includes the summit of Lammerlaw, which gives name to the whole range. The border for some distance from that boundary is bleak, moorish, and highly up- land; but the surl'ace afterwards yields to the water courses, becomes verdant and even beautiful, moder- ates in height, and eventually yields to the dominion of the plough. The vale of the Leader, about third way from the uoithern boundary, acquires a low open bottom, and retains this to the southern extremity, with a width varying from 1 mile to 2 miles; and all this vale, as well as much of the slopes which form its screens, is beautifully cultivated, and has a fine appearance. Depressions in the hilly ranges form openings from its side, and pleasingly diversify the landscape. The soil of the arable lands is, in general, light and dry, — in many instances clayey, — and over a considerable extent richly loamy, and supei*- incumbent on sand or gravel. The uplands are, for the most part, excellent sheep-walks, aud maintain numerous floeks of Cheviots. About 12,060 im- perial acres are in tillage ; about 25,043 are pastoral or waste ; and about 65U aie under wood. Rock of excellent kind, both for masonry and for road metal, is abundant. The principal landowners are the Earl of Lauderdale, the Marquis of Tweeddale, Fairholm of Chapel, Scott of Harden, and Allan of Muircleugh. The estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1833 was ±'29.270. Assessed property in 18135, -fl7..")31 lis. 3d. Many Pictish andScottisli encampments, either round or oval, are in the parish and its neighbourhood; and many tumuli exist on Lauder-moor, on the old road to Melrose. Frag- ments of swords, bows, and arrows, found on the moor — the arrows pointed with iiint-stonc — indicate the place to have been the scene of ancient though unrecorded and forgotten battles. Between the burgh and the Leader stands, on a beautifnl lawn, Lauder. fort, now called Thirlestane C.\stle: which see. Lauder was the birth-place of Sir John Mait- land. Lord Thirlestane, who, in the reign of James VI., filled the offices successively of lord-privy-seal, secretarj'-of-state, and chancellor of Scotland; and it enjoyed, for a brief period, the ministry of the Rev. James Guthrie, the first of the Scottish martyrs after the Restoration. The parish is traversed by the road from Edinburgh to Kelso, but has not access to any nearer railway stations than those of the Edinburgh aud Hawick railway in the vallev of the Gala." Population in 1831, 2,063; in 1861, 2,198. Houses, 373. This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Earl of Lauderdale. Stipend, £272 Is. 7d.; glebe, £18. Unappropriated teinds. £181 2S. 2d. Schoolmaster's salary, £56 18s. 9d., £S for female assistant, and other emoluments. Tlie parish church was built in 1673, and repaired in 1820, and contains 773 sittings. There is a Free church; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £183 2s. lid. There is also an United Presbyterian church, containing 432 sittings. There are a Free church school, a voluntar}- school, and two or three ladies' schools. The ancient parish church appears to have been of considerable value, having been rated in the ancient Taxatio at ninety marks, while that of Channelkirk was rated at only forty. In the reign of David I., the advowson, along with almost the whole of Lauderdale, was given to Sir Hugh Morvill'e, constable of Scotland ; and through many a changeful age it continued an ap- purtenant of the manor, till it passed into the pos- session of Devorgillar, the wife of the first John Baliol. By this lady, the church, with its pertinents, was given to the monks of Dryburgh ; and it con- tinueil to be a vicarage under tb.em till the Refor- mation. The palish church, which preceded the present structure, stood on the north side of the town opposite Thirlestane-castle, and was, in July, 1482, the scene of the meeting of the Scottish nobles which issued in the murder of James llL's menials on Lauder bridge, and in the capture and imprison- ment of the King. Subordinate to the parish church were anciently two chapels. One stood at Redslie in the detached part of the parish, and is commem- orated in the name Chapel, borne by a farm in its vicinity ; and the other stood on the right bank of the Leader, at the southern extremit}^ of the main body of the parish, and dedicated to St. Leonard's. The former was confirmed by Malcolm IV., and the latter given by Sir Richard Morville, who died in 1189, to the monks of Dryburgh. Contiguous to St. Leonard's chapel stood an hospital, dedicated to the same saint, and founded, during the Scoto-Saxon period, probably by Sir Hugh Morville. Both struc- tures are commemorated in the name St. Leonard's, borne by a mansion near their site. ' St. Leonard's banks' are celebrated in Scottish song. LAUDER, a post-town, a royal burgh, the capital of Lauderdale, stands in the southern part of the main body of the parish of Lauder, on the west side of the valley of the Leader, along the road from Edinburgh to Kelso, 5 miles east-north-east of Stow. 7 north-north-west of Earlston, 12 west by r.nrth of Greenlaw, 17 north-west of Kelso, 18 west by south of Dunse, and 25 south-east of Edinburgh. The main part of it is a single street, 700 yards long, of very various width, and not quite straight, stretching from north-west to south-east along the highway. Upwards of 400 yards from its north-west end, the street attains its greatest width, and begins to be split over the distance of about 110 yards into two thoroughfares, by a line of buildings running along its middle. The north-west end of the bisecting line is the town-house. The pari^li-church stands a little off the street-line, immediately south-west of the town-house; and, though cruciform and pre- tentious, is a poor unimposing edifice. The site of an ancient cross in front of the town-house is marked by a radiated pavement. Diagonally across the north-west end of the main street, stretching nearly east and west, is another street, partly one-sided, and altogether 350 yards long. Describing the segment of a circle on the south-west side of the main street, and running nearly parallel to it on the north-east side, are two thoroughfares, almost alto- gether unedificed, and bearing the names of the Upper and the Under Backsides. The park wall of Thirlestane-castle screens the whole of the north- eastern side of these thoroughfares, and forms on that side the boundary of the burgh ; and the lawn and other grounds of the noble residence occupy all the space thence to the I^eader. The whole town is plain and irregular in its houses, and has a dull, LAUDEK-BURX. 304 LAURENCEKIRK. stagnant, desolate appearance. It has been alto- gether stationary for very many years, and gives no promise of future extension. Yet it is the seat of some local trade, and serves in various ways as a centre of business to the surrounding country. Tiiere are two principal inns, the Black Bull, and the Ivigle. Communication, both for travelling and for goods, is maintained chiefly through the Stow sti- tion of the Edinburgh and Hawick railway. There are in the town au office of tlie Bank of Scotland, an office of the City of Glasgow bmk, eight insurance agencies, a subscription liljrary, a mechanics' library, a news room, a free masons' lodge, a gas company, and a water company. There are likewise connected with it an agricultural society, a horticultural so- ciety, a curling club, a clothing society, and a total abstinence society. Lauder is said to have been erected into a royal burgh in the reign of William the Lion. Tiie earl}' charters having been lost amid tlie anarchy of tlie Border wars, a charter of novo damns was given by James IV. in 1502, and ratified next year by parlia- ment. As defined under tlie reform act, the burgli excludes the town's common, and a considerable land- ward district, comprehended in the old royalty, l)Ut includes a small portion of formerly uncomprehended kirk-lands to the sontli-west of the town. The burgh property is of veiy considerable value, and con- sists mainly of a common of upwards of 1,700 acres. The common is said to have been possessed for a long period by the burgesses as their private property, and the rights of possession are also said to have been anciently regulated by certain rules, varying as the burgess's were resident or non-resident within the town. The debt of the town having accumii- lited to an inconvenient amount, the magistrates, aliout the year 1814, enclosed a part of the common with the view of letting it as an arable farm to the iiest bidder, and disposing of the rents for the pur- poses of the burgh. This enclosure was resisted by some of the burgesses, who, in virtue of a clause in tiie charter of James IV., claimed a feudal title to the common. A long and keen litigation now en- sued before the court of session, and in 1825 ended in favour of the magistrates and town-council. In 183.3, the revenue of the burgh was £307 7s. 9d.; its expenditure £326, 18s. ll^d.; the revenue from its property included in the total revenue, £264 15s. 3d.; debts due to it, £341 lOs. 9|d.; debts due by it, £2,913 19s. 73d. In 1864-5, the revenue was about £6S7. The government of the burgh is vested in two biilies and seven councillors. Justice of peace courts are lield as often as required. Slieritf small debt courts are held on tlie tliird Wednesday of February, the fourth Wednesday of July, and tlie third Wednesday of October. Lauder iinites with .ledhurgh, Dunbar, North Berwick, and Haddington, in sending a member to parliament. Municipal constituencv in 1861, .51; parliamentary constitu- ency, 56. Population in 1831, 1,075; in 1861, 1,121. Houses. 196. LAUDEH-BURN. a brook of Koxburghshire and Berwickshire. It rises in the parish of Melrose, runs a mile northward to the boundary with lier- wickshire, traces that boundary \\ mile north-west- ward, and then runs 3 miles across the parish of Laudei', north-eastward and eastward, and past the south end of the burgh of Lauder, to tiie Leader. LAUDERDALE, the western one of tlie three districts of Berwickshire. In geographical distri- bution and agricultural properties, Berwickshire is all strictly divisible into simply the Lammermoors and the Merse; the upper and the lower parts of Lauderdale belonging respectively to these just as distinctly as any other part of the county. The limits of Lauderdale, as regards the usage of calling it a distinct district, cannot be defined, and must probably be understood as including simply the basin <^f the Leader and its tributaries, so far as the basin is in Berwickshire. iMen anciently the limits appear to have been very dirt'erent in successive periods, and to have marked fluctuations both in the kind and in the extent of the civil jurisdiction within them. Maps of Lauderdale, Merse, and Lam- mernioor, were made by Timothy Pont in the reign of Charles I., and inserted in Blaeu's Atlas Scotia;. The author of Caledonia — guided apparently by these maps — states the aiea of Lauderdale to be 105 square miles, — that of Lanimermoor to be 138J, — and that of the Merse to be 202i. At the abolition of here- ditary jurisdictions, the Earl of Lauderdale received the same cofnpensation for the regality of Thirle- stane as for the bailiary of Lauderdale, — £500. See TaiRI.KSTANE-CASTr.E. LAURANCE (St.). See Slam.\nxax. LAURENCE (St.). See Gkeexock. LAURENCE-HOUSE (St.), a hamlet about a mile west of the town of Haddington, in East Lo thian. LAURENCEKIRK, a parish, containing a post- town of its own name, in the How district of Kin- cardineshire. It is bounded by Fordoun, Garvock. and Mary kirk. Its length west-south-westward ia 4 miles; and its breadth vaiies from less than a mile near its east end to about 3 miles near its west end. The rivulet Luther comes in upon it from Fordoun, and run.';, west-south-westward, nearly through its centre. A small tract at its east end is drained into the Bervie. The general surface con- sists of flat ground along the Luther, and of gentle acclivities rising thence to the northern and the southern boundaries. The elevation of the bed of the Luther here is about 180 feet above sea-level; the highest ground in the northern section has an elevation of about 220 feet above sea-level; and the highest ground in the southern section, on the boun- dary with Garvock, being on the northern slojie of Garvock hill, has an elevation of about 4.50 feet above sea-level. The soil on the flat ground contiguous to the Luther is a fertile alluvium ; that in the nor- thern tracts is generally cold and mooiish ; and that in the southern tracts is all a deep clayey loam, in- cumbent on sandstone or on clay, and generally very productive. About 5,000 imperial acres within the parish are arable; about 120 are pastoral or waste; and about 220 are under wood. The principal land- owners are the Earl of Kintore and Gibbon of John- stone. The real rental in 1838 was £5,775; the value of assessed property in 1865 was £10,210 4s. 6d ; and the estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1838 was £20,046. The only mansion is Johnstone- lodge, a neat modern structure, commanding a fine view of Strathniore and the Grampians. There was, till only a few years ago, a flax spinning mill at Blackiemuir. The weaving of linen is an extensive employment. The parish is traversed by the road from Forfar to Stonehaven, and by the Aberdeen railway; and it has a station on tlie latter, 26| miles from Forfar, and 31 miles from Aberdeen. Popula- tion in 1831, 1,886; in 1861, 2,110. Houses, 434. This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, St. Mary's College. St. Andrews. Stipend, £241 3s. 7d.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £34 19s. 5d. School- master's sahiry, £55, under the recent act, and a considerable amount of other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1804. and enlarged in 1819, and contains about 766 sittings. There is a Fiee church, with an attendance of 220; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £284 2s. 6d. There LAURIESTON. 305 LAXFOKD. is ail Episcopalian chapel, built in 1793, and con- taining 205 sittings. There is also an Independent ciiapel. There are two Free church schools, an Epis- copal school, a parochial library, a '"public library of Laurencekirk," and a library deposited in the Episcopalian chapel, and belonging to the Episco- palian clergy of the diocese of Brechin. Dr. Beattie, the poet and moral philosopher, and his nephew James Beattie, professor of natural history in Aber- deen, were natives of Laurencekirk. The celebrated Thomas Kuddiman, the grammarian, was parish schoolmaster of Laurencekirk from 1695 to 1700. Dr. George Cooke, the historian of the Church of Scotland, was minister of Laurencekirk from 1795 till 1828. The original church was dedicated to St. Lawrence; and when the predecessor of the present church, built in 1626, was taken down in 1804, there were found in its walls some stones which appeared to have belonged to a prior church, sculptured with the figure of a man on a gridiron, supposed to re- present the martyrdom of St. Lawrence. The name Laurencekirk was applied, till some time in last century, only to tlie Kirktown; and the name of the parish, before that time, was Conveth. The Town of Laueenxekirk stands on the road from Stonehaven to Forfar, in the south-west part of the parish of Laurencekirk, 7 miles west of Bervie, 10 north by west of ilontrose, and 14 south-west of Stonehaven. It consists principally of one street, about a mile in length, extending south-westward along the public road. In 1730, the population did not exceed 80 persons; and, in 1762, it had even de- creased to 54. At this period the estate of John- stone was purchased by the talented and eccentric Lord Gardenstone, a judge of the court-of-session, distinguished for his speculative turn of mind, and his successful cultivation of the belles lettres. His lordship having determined on creating a town here, in 1765 laid out a part of his property in build- ing-ground, began to build, and soon attracted set- tlers. In 1779, he obtained for his new village the status and privileges of a free burgh-of-barony, the Crown charter empowering the inhabitants trien- nially to choose a bailie and four councillors, and to hold a weekly market and an annual fair, collect dues and customs, &C. The extent and nature of the jurisdiction granted to the magistrates, how- ever, has been a subject of uncertainty. The public-spirited proprietor also built an elegant inn, with a select library and museum adjoining it, chiefly for the amusement of travellers ; and he en- couraged, and contributed liberally to, the establish- ment of a bleachfield, and the introduction of the linen manufacture. At the present time a principal employment of the inhabitants is handloom linen weaving^ and another emploj'inent, which has given the town a rivalry in fame with Cumnock and Mauchline in Ayrshire, is the making of ornamen- tal wooden snuff-boxes. The town has an office of the Aberdeen town and county bank, a branch of the Montrose savings' bank, a news room, a gas- light company, a horticultural society, and a far- mers' club. Population in 1841, 1,365 ; in 1861, 1,519. LAURIESTON, a small post-town in the parish of Falkirk, Stirlingshire. It stands on the eastern verge of the parish, on the road from Falkirk to Eliiiburgh, about 1^ mile east of the town of Fal- kirk. It is laid out on a regular plan along the sides of the road, having a square in the centre, with lanes in the same direction on the south and north, and intersected by cross streets. It occupies a comparatively elevated site, and commands a very brilliant view of the carse of Falkirk and the Ochils. It was feued out in 1756, by Francis Lord Napier, II. and took from him the name of New Merchiston ; but it afterwards became the property of Sir Lawrence Dundas, the ancestor of the Earl of Zet- land, and took from him the name of Lawrence- town, wliich soon became abbreviated into Lauries- ton. Here is a Reformed Presbyterian church, which was built in 1788, and contains 250 sittings. Here also arc two schools. Most of the inhabi- tants are employed in weaving, nail-making, agri- culture, and ordinary handicrafts. Population, 1,265. LAURIESTON, a post-office village in the parish of Balmaghie, Kirkcudbrightshire. It stands on the road from Kirkcudbright to New Galloway, 6 miles west-north-west of Castle-Douglas. Here is a parochial school. Population, -312. LAURIESTON, Lanarkshire. See Glasgow. LAURIESTON, Kincardineshire. See Cyeus (St.) and Kincardinesiiiee. LAURIN. See Glenkens. LA YEN. See Inneekip. LAVEROCK. See Coldingham. LAW, an Anglo-Saxon prefix or suffix, signi- fying an isolated hill or mount, generally of a coni- cal form. LAW-CASTLE. See Kilbride (West). LAWERS. See Kenmoee and Momvaird. LAWHEAD. See Whitekiek. LAWHILL, any isolated hill or mount of a coni- cal form, or any locality designated from such hill or mount. The name is tautological, seeing the word law itself signifies hill; but it is nevertheless in considerable use. It is applied, in particular, to localities in Blantyre, in Craigie, in Deskford, in Dundee, in West Kilbride, in Kirkurd, in Marytoii, in Rayne, in Symington, in Tannadice, and in Tar- boltoii. The name Lawknow, which is quite simi- lar to Lawhill, is applied also to localities in Car- nock, in Errol, and in East Kilbride. LAWMUIR. See Kilbride (East) and Kil- PATRiCK (East). LAWRENCE (St.). See Laurence (St.). LAWTING. See Tingwali.. LAWTON. See Inverkeillop.. LAXAY, a rivulet and a small island in the parish of Lochs, in the island of Lewis. The rivu- let is formed by the superfluence of Loch-Trialivall, on the boundary with Uig, and runs eastward across the parish of Lochs, with a breadth of about 30 feet, and an ordinary depth of about 15 inches. LAXDALE, a village and a rivulet in the parish of Stornoway, in the island of Lewis. The village is contiguous to the town of Stornoway ; and the rivulet runs eastward to Broad bay, a little north of that town. LAXFIRTH, a bay. about a mile in average width, and penetrating the east side of the parish of Tingwall, 2^ miles west-south-westward, at a point about 7 miles north of Lerwick, in the mainland of Shetland. LAXFORD (Locii), a sea-loch, penetrating the parish of Edderachyllis, 5 miles east-south-eastward, with an average breadth of about a mile, on the west coast of Sutherlandshire. The name is a cor- ruption of Lax-fiord, and signifies the Salmon frith The loch aff'ords excellent anchorage. LAXFORD (The), a stream, issuing from Loch- Stack, and flowing north-westward to the head of Loch-Laxford, in the parish of Edderachyllis. in Sutherlandshire. It is proverbially an excellent salmon stream, and perhaps affords better angling than any other stream of its size and breadth in Great Britain. LAY-POINT. See Glassertok. LEACHT(Hillof). See Kirkmichaet,, Baiiflshirc. t; LEACHTON, 306 LECROPT. LEACHTON (The), a rivulet ranning along the boundarv between the parish of Inverary and the parish of Glassary, to Loch-Fyne, in Argyle- shire. LEADBURN, a post-office hamlet on the south- ern verge of the parish of Penicuick and of Edin- hurghshii-e. It stands on a head -stream of the North Esk, and on the road from Edinhurgh to Peehles, 3^ miles south of Penienick. Contiguous to it is a station of the Peebles railway. LEADER (The), a small river traversing the district of Lauderdale, ]')er\vickshire, and, for some distance, dividing that county from Roxburghshire. After leaving the main body of tlie parish of Lau- der [which see], it pursues a course of 6 miles almost uniformly due south to tlie Tweed, at Dry- grange, 2 miles" above Dryburgli. For Ij mile it divides Legerwood in Berwickshire from Melrose in Roxburghshire; for 1^ mile it divides Legerwood and Earlston from the detached part of Lauder; for ^ of a mile it nins across a small projection of Earl- ston ; and thence to the Tweed, it divides Earlston from Melrose. It rans with considerable rapidity, is a good trouting stream, and boasts some fine scenery on its banks, particularly as it approaches the Tweed. Some of the localities which overlook it are celebrated in the old song of 'Leader haujis and Yarrow.' LEADHILLS, a small post-town, and the seat of a mining population in the parisli of Crawford, Lanarkshire. It stands on the southern verge of the county, adjacent to the sources of Glengonncr water, on'a mountain road from Upper Nithsdale to Upper Strathclyde. 1 mile north-east of Wanlock- head, 15 miles south-south-east of Douglas-mill, 16 north-north-east of Tliornhill, 44 south-east by south of Glasgow, and 46 south-west by south of Edin- burgh. Its site has an elevation of about 1,300 feet above the level of the sea, and is periiaps the highest inhabited land in Scotland. The aspect of the country around is of the most sterile description, consisting of hills al)Ove hills of scanty herbage or heather; and elevated though it be, the village oc- cupies a position in a valley, from one side of which a bleak lofty ridge ascends to the height of 2,450 feet. The view from this point is tnily magnificent, embracing on the north the Pentland hills; on the south, the Solway fiith, the Isle of Man, and the moimtains of Cumberland; and on the west, Ailsa Craig, the peaks of Arran, Benlomond, and the Paps of Jura. Lead was probably worked here in the time of the Roman dominatio'n. The Romans, at all events, are known to have worked lead mines in Britain ; and they had camps and stations in the neighbourhood of Leadhills, while one of their prin- cipal military roads traversed the parish of Crawford. One of the "recent lead veins, however, was not discovered till 1517, and the records of the mining operations do not reach farther back than to about the year 1600. The mineral field of the place ex- tends across the watershed into Dumfries-shire, and is perhaps the richest lead-mining district in the kingdom. See Lanarkshide and ^Vanlockhead. In the zenith of the trade, in 1810. Leadhills pro- duced about 1,400 tons annually, valued, according to the then current price, at more than £45,000; but of late years both the price and the quantity pro- duced have materially fallen off, the mines only yield- ing from 700 to 800 tons annually; and, in conse- quence, the circumstances of the inhabitants are not so comfortable as they were wont to be. The works are managed by the Scots Mining company, who have at all times a responsible agent resident upon the spot; and the rent of the Earl of Hopetoun, the p: oprietor, is said to be every sixth bar of lead pro- duced. The town has a chapel of ease, under tl;e patronage of the Earl of Hopetoun ; a preaching station of the Free church, in connexion with Wan- lockhead; an endowed school, with a salary of £30 and a house ; and a good public library, established so earl}' as 1741, and now containing about 2,000 volumes. Fairs are held on the second Friday of June, and on the last Friday of October. I'opula- tion. in 1861, 842. LEADLAW. See Lixtox, Peebles-shire. LEADLOCK-BURN, a headstream of Briech- water, in the east end of the parish of Canibus- nethan, in Lanarkshire. LEAP-HILL, an isolated, pyi'amidal-looking hil!. in the parish of Teviothead, Roxburghshire. LEARNY-HILL. See Kincardine O'Neil. LEASTON. See Humbie. LEATHEN-LOCH. See Poktkei:. LEBANON. See Cupar-Fife. LECKIE. See Garguxxock. LECROPT, a parish on the mutual border of Perthshire and Stirlingshire. It contains part of the post-office village of Bridge of Allan, and ap- proaches within H mile of the town of Stirling. It is bounded by Dunblane, Logic, St. Ninians, Kin- cardine, and Kihnadock. Its length eastward is al out 3 miles; and its breadth is about 2f miles. The Allan traces its eastern boundaiy to the Forth ; the Teith traces part of tlie southern boundary; and the Forth, after receiving the Teith, traces the rest of that boundary to the intlux of the Allan. Through the middle of the parish, almost from end to end, extends a beautiful bank. All the surface south of this is rich carse ground, without a single stone or pebble, tastefully enclosed, and in the most luxuri- ant cultivation. From the bank northward, the surface rises with a gentle ascent, partakes the character of what, in the vicinity of carse lands, is called dryfield, is all enclosed either with stone walls or with hedge and ditch, and exhibits many opulent results of agricultural improvement. A great variety of thriving planted trees shelter and adom the dry- field. From the bisecting bank, and from points of upland beyor.d it, m.ignificent prospects are obtained of the rich flat basin of the Teith and the Forth, and of the zone now of low heights, now of bold hills, and now of grand mountain-summits, which encinctures it. The principal landowners are Stir- ling of Keir, the Earl of Mora}^ and Foggo of Row- speirs. The old valued rental is £1,536. Assessed property in 1865. £3,086 Is. 2d. Near the mansion of Keir, f of a mile north-west of the church, is one of the chain of rude forts, all called Keirs, which run along the north face of the strath of the Teith, and were built by the Caledonians to watch the motions of the troops stationed on the great Roman wall. In the immediate vicinity of the church are those veiy marked monuments of feudal times and jurisprudence, a Court-hill and a Gallow- hill. The parish is traversed by the road from Stir- ling to Callander, and has ready access to the Scot- tish central railway. Population of the Perthshire section in 1831, 189; in 1861, 202. Houses, 28. Population of the entire parish in 1831, 443; in 1861, 538. Houses, 77. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunblane, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Stirling of Keir. Stipend, £147 13s. 8d. ; glebe, £16 lOs. Schooliiinster's salary, £48, with £52 for retii-ed schoolmaster, and other emoluments. The paiish church i.s a handsome modern Gothic edifice. The ancient church belonged to tiie monks of Cambus- kenneth. The name Lecropt signifies " the lialf of the liill," and alludes to the configuration of the par- ochial surface. LEDAIG. 307 LEITH. LEDAIG, a post-office station subordinate to Bonaw, in Lorn, Argj'leshire. LEDBEG. See Assynt. LEUNATHY (The), a rivulet of the upper dis- trict of tlie parish of Kirriemuir, Forfarshire. It rises near the boundary with Lintratlien, and n;ns south-eastward to the Prosen, a little above where that stream first touches the boundary with King- oldrum. LEDNOCK (The), a rivulet of the parish of Comrie, Perthshire. It rises in the north-west ex- tremity of the parish, and flows south-eastward to the Earn at the village of Comrie, forming, over the last 2^ miles of its course, the boundary with Moiiivaird. See Glenlednock. LEE (The). See Esk (The North), Forfarshihe. LEE-CASTLE. See Lanark. LEEDS (New), a village in the parish of Strichen, Aberdeenshire. It stands on the east border of that parish, on the road from Fraserburgh to Aberdeen, 4i miles north of Mintlaw. Here is an United Presbyterian church. LEEPEN. See Innerleithen. LEES. See Eccles. LEET (The), a ri\^let of the Merse, Berwick- shire. It rises near the extreme north of the parish of Whitsome; flows 5 miles south-westward through that parish and Swinton, — divides, for 2 miles south- ward, Swinton and Coldstream on the east, from Eccles on the west, — and runs sinuously 5 miles .south-eastward through Coldstream parish to the Tweed at the town of Coldstream. LEETOWX, a village in the parish of Eirol, Perthshire. Population, 112. Houses, 2-1. LEGERWOOD, a parish on the west border of Berwickshire. Its post-town is Earlston, 4 miles south-south-west of its kirktown. It is bounded by Ivoxburghshire, and by the parishes of Lauder, Westruthei', Gordon, and Earlston. Its length southward is oj miles ; and its average bi-eadth is between 2^ and 3 miles. Its southern division is wholly occupied by a veiy broad-based height, called Lege rwood-hill, whose summit is geographically from 1 to IJ mile within the interior of the parish, and whose sides slope gently to the southern, eastern, and western boundaries. The north corner sends up an imposing elevation, called Boon-hill, 1,090 feet above sea-level. From this height a hilly ridge inins southward near the western boundary till not far from the north base of Legerwood-hill ; and thence it sends oft' a ridge north-eastward to the most east- erly point of the parish. The glens or vales among the hills are of considerable width ; and, together with the soft slopes of the uplands, surrender very nearly one-half of the entire area, covered generally with a deep dark-coloured mould, to the stated or occasional dominion of the plough. About 300 acres are under wood. The pi-edoniinant rocks are sand- stone conglomerate and greywacke. Blythe-water, or Boon-dreigh, traces all the north-western boun- dary, a distance of 2^ miles; and Leader-water, into which the Blythe falls, traces all the western boun- dary, a distance of 2| miles. Several brooks drain the interior, and run along the glens. The chief landed proprietors are the Marquis of Tweeddale and Kerr-Seymour of Morriston ; and there are five others. Birkhillside, the seat of one of the land- owners, is the principal mansion, and stands on the Leader. Tlie kirktown of Legerwood is situated nearly in the centre of the parish, about 1 J mile from tlie Leader, but is only a small hamlet. Towers or peel-houses are at Corsbie and Whitslaid. Two ancient British camps could, not long ago, be traced on the hill of Birkenside. The estimated value of the raw produce of the parish in 1835 was £11,792. Assessed property in 1865, £6,920 19s. 3d. There is no access to railway communication nearer than Melrose or Stow. Population in 1831, 565 ; in 1861, 599. Houses, 97. Tiiis parish is in the presbytery of Lauder, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Kerr- Seymour of Morriston. Stipend, £228 4s. lOd.; glebe, £12. Unappropriated teinds, £66 17s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £50 besides fees, and £5 10s. other emoluments. There is a parochial library. The parish church is an old building, repaired in 1717 and in 1804, and contains 203 sittings. Walter Steward of Scotland obtained from Malcolm IV. the lands of Legerwood and Birkenside, and gave the church, with its pertinents, to the monks of Paisley. LEINZIE. See Cumbernauld. LEITH, a district suburban to Edinburgh, h'ing between it and the fritli of Forth, and comprising its principal port, some outskirts of its streets, part of its parliamentary burgh territory, and a consider- able portion of its environs. Yet Leith is distinct from Edinburgh both parochially and municipally. In the former capacity, it comprises the two quoad civilia parishes of North Leith and South Leith ; and in the latter capacity, exclusive of environs or open tracts, it is a large town of itself, and a parlia- mentary burgh, with all the ordinary appurtenances of a municipality and a seaport. The parish of North Leith is bounded on the north by the frith of Forth ; on the east and south- east by the water of Leith, which divides it from the parish of South Leith ; and on the south and west by the parish of St. Cuthbert's. It is of an oblong form, lying east and west; measures about li mile in length by ^ a mile of extreme breadth; and lias an area of only about 270 acres. Its surface is level, or very slightly variegated; and, with the exception of some garden grounds, and a few fields, is all covered by villas, by the villages of Newhaven and Trinity, and by the town of North Leith. Much of tlie coast has, to a considerable breadth, been washed away by the frith, and has received the aid of a very powerful bulwark of stone to protect it tVom further loss. In the year 1595, the links of North Leith, lying along the coast, were let at an annual rent of 6 merks, while those of South Leith were let at a rent of 30; so that they must then have been one-fifth of the extent of the latter, or nearly ^ of a mile long, and from 200 to 300 yards in breadth. For many years, however, tliey have entirely dis- appeared ; and what must formerly have been an expansive and beautiful plain, is now an irreclaim- able waste, regularly flooded by the tide, and con- sisting entirely of sand and boulders. Population in 1831, 7,416;"in 1861, 10,903. Houses, 792. There were also, in 1861, 213 military persons in Leith fort. This parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons, the heads of families. Stipend, £285 9s.; glebe, includ- ing sums derived from fees and rents, £394 16s. 4d. The parish church was built in 1816, and contains 1,768 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at New- haven, which was built in 1838, and is in the pre- sentation of trustees and of male seat-holders above 18 years of age. There are three Free churches. — the North Leith, the Newhaven, and the Mariners'; and the receipts of the first in 1865 were £1,442 15s. 8d.,— of the second, £533 t7s. 9d.,— of the third, £220 15s. lOd. There is an United Presbyterian cliuich, which was built in 1819, and contains 1,100 sittings. Tliere is also a small Baptist place of worship. There are a parochial school, conducted by a master and an assistant, and 15 non-parochial sclionls; and one of the most remarkable of the latter is Leith LEITH. 308 LEITH. nautical school, in connexion witli tlie Board of Trade, which was opened in September 1855. Par- ochial sciioolmaster's salary, £21, with about £8 fees, and £40 other emoluments. North Leith, previous to the lleformation, be- longed partly to the parisii of Ilolyrood- house, and partly to that of St. Cuthbert's. The port of Inverleith, as it was then called, tlie village of Newliaven and the adjacent fields, wliich jointly constituted the St. Cuthbert's portion, were, along witii one-half of the fishery, given by David I. to the monks of Holyrood. A chapel, in the reign of James IV., was built in North Leith by Robert Bellcnden, abbot of Holyrood. endowed by him. and dedicated to St. Niniaii. Tiiis chapel continued subordinate to the abbey till the Reformation ; but, along with the chaplain's house, tlie tithes, and other pertinents, it was, after that event, purchased by the inhabitants from John Bothwell, the commen- dator of Holyrood. The spirited purchasers immedi- ately rebuilt botii the place of worship and tlie par- sonage; and, in 16U6, obtained an act of parliament erecting tiie district into a parish. In 1630, the commissioners for teinds and plantation of kirks added Newliaven and the rest of the area which had belonged to St. Cuthbert's. In 1633, the parish, thus enlarged, was annexed to the episcopate of Edinburgh. Anciently an hospital and a chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas, stood on the site of the Citadel ; and they are commemorated in the name of tlie alley called St. Nicholas'-wynd. The parish of South Leitii is bounded on the north-east by the frith of Forth ; on the south Ijy Duddingston and Canongate ; and on the west by some parishes of the royalty of Edinburgh, and by St. Cuthbert's and North Leith. It is nearly tri- angular in form ; measures 2i miles on the north- east side, 2f on the soutli sicle, and If on the west side; and has an area of about 1,200 acres. The boundary is traced for some way with Duddingston by the Fishwives'-causeway; it tlien passes nearly along the road between Edinburgh and Portobello, till past Jock's Lodge; it next makes a projecting sweep so as to include Parson's-green ; and after skirting Arthur'e-seat and the Queen's-park. it runs along the north back of Canongate, delwuches tlirough Low Calton, goes down Leith-walk till nearly opposite the mansion of Pilrig, and then moves due westward in a zigzag line to the Water of Leith, and follows that stream to tiie sea. The parish tlius includes, besides its landward dis-tricts, Calton-hill, parts of Calton and Canongate, Abbey- hill, Norton-place, the east side of Leith-walk, Jock's Lodge, Restalrig, and the whole town of South Leith. Except on Calton-hill, the soil, not occupied by buildings, is all siisceptiljle of high cultivation, and has been worked into a state of utility and or- nament in keeping with its close vicinity to tlie metropolis. Irrigated and very fertile meadows, green and beautiful promenading-grounds, neat and extensive nurseries, and elegant fruit and vegetable gardens, combine, with a few corn-fields, with the little lake of Lochend, and with a profusion of fine enclosures, and a rich sprinkling of villas and par- terres, to render the open area eminently attractive. The east corner is part of the lands formerly called the Figgate Whins, notable alike for having been abandoned to barrenness, disposed of for almost a nominal price, and georgically worked into fertilit}'. The built districts, which are compact with the me- tropolis, have been noticed in the description of Edixbukgu. Separate articles are devoted also to Cai.ton-hill, Jock's Lodge, Lochend, and Restal- Kio. The mansions and villas are so numerous that to notice all would be tedious, and to notice a few would be invidious. The beach, all the way from South Leith to tlie eastern boundary, is not a little attractive to sea-bathers; a fine clean sandy bottom, an inclination or slope quite gentle enough to assure the most timid, — and a limpid roll, or ripple, or bur- nished face of water, the very look of which is luxury on a summer's day. Population in 1831, 18,439; in 1861, 26,170. Houses, 1,893. There were also, in 1861, 331 military persons in Jock's Lodge liarracks. This parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The charge is collegiate. Patron of tlie first charge, the Crown ; of the second charge, the kirk-session and the incor- porations. Stipend of the first minister, £395 19s. lid., with a glebe worth £80, and an allowance of £80 for a manse; of the second minister, £247 Is. 2d. Unappropriated teinds. £636 2s. 4d. The par- ish church, situated in Kirkgale, is an ancient building, in a high state of repair, and contains 1,347 sittings. St. Thomas' church, situated on Slierrift'-brae, contiguous to the water of Leith, is a modern structure, gifted to the Establishment by John Gladstone, Esq., of Fasque; and was accepted by the General Assembly on the stipulation that the election of its ministers should be patronial ; and the patronage of it at present is in the hand of Sir Thomas Gladstone, Bart. It was constituted a quoad sacra paiish church, first by the General Assembly in 1840, and next by tlie Court of Teinds in 1847. There is also a place of wor- ship in connection with the Establishment at Restalrig. There are three Free clmrches, called respectively South Leith, St. John's, and Junction- street churches; and the receipts of the first in 1865 were £376 15s. 2d.— of the second, £618 Is. 7d. — of the third, £423 Os. 6d. There are three United Presbyterian churches, — one in Kirkgate, built in 1775, and containing 1,025 sit- tings,— one in St. Andrew's Place at the Links, built in 1826, and containing 1,254 sittings, — and one in Junction-street, built in 1825, and containing 1,230 sittings. There is an Independent chapel in Constitution-street, built in 1826, at the cost of £2,000, and containing 520 sittings. There is also an Episcopalian church in Constitution-street, called St. James', built in 1862-3, to supersede a previous smaller one built in 1805. There is a Wesleyan Methodist chapel at the foot of Leith Walk, part of a group of houses erected in 1818, at the cost of £5,000, and containing 400 sittings. There is a Morrisonian chapel in St. Andrews- street. And there is a large Roman Catholic chapel, of recent erection, in a court between Kirkgate and Constitu- tion-street. The principal schools are the High school, comprising departments for English, for writing, arithmetic, and mathematics, for classics and F^rench, for dancing and calisthenics, for draw- ing and painting, for music, and for music and needlework ; Dr. Bell's school, for about 700 scholars, on the Madras system of mutual instruction, under a superintendent and assistants; the Leith boys' charity school; the Free church schools; and the Episcopalian school. The total number of schools is about 34; and the maximum attendance of scholars is about 2,370. The ancient name of the parish of South Leitli was Restalrig. In 1214 'I'homas de Restalric, or Restalrig, made a giant of some tenements which he describes as situated " southward of the High- street," probably the present Leith-walk, "between Edinburgh and Leith;" and, in conformity with the usage of the period, he probably had a church on the manor, from which he took his name. A church with parochial jurisdiction, existed at Restalrig, at all events, in 1296; for, in that year, Adam of St LEITH. 309 LEITH. Edmunds, '• pastor of Eestalric," swore fealty to Edward I., and had a precept for the delivery of all his rights. During the reign of Robert I., the Lo- gans obtained possession of the manor and the ad- vowson ; and they continued to exercise the power of both barons and patrons till the commencement of the 17th century, when tliey suffered forfeiture for participation in CTOwrie's conspiracy. A colle- giate establishment was organized in the church; but it does not seem to have interfered with the patronage. The establishment was set up by James III., and at first included only a dean and canon, supported by the revenue of the parish church of Lasswade; in 1512 it received from James IV. the addition of six prebendaries, supported by the re- venues of the parsonage of St. Mary of Rothesay, by a rent of £20 from the King's new works in Leith, and by the chapeliy of St. Trednan's isle, which had been erected in Restalrig church ; and in 1515 it got from James V., the accession of two singing bo\'s, and the grant of the ten pound lands of the parish of Kirkhill, and some rents and tenements in Canongate. A chapel, dedicated to tlie Virgin !Mary, and situated in the town of South Leith, preceded, for probably a century, the origin of the collegiate establishment; and was enriched with many dona- tions and annuities for the support, within it. of altars or chaplainries dedicated to St. Peter, St. Barbara, and probably other saints. To this chapel — the choir of which was destroyed in 1544 by the English invaders under the Earl of Hertford — the General Assembly of 1560 drove the parishioners, by doom- ing the parish and collegiate church to destruction as a monument of idolatry. The revenues of the chaplainries or altarages were now appropriated for the support of the reformed ministers; and half-a- century later, or in 1609, the chapel of St. Mary was constituted by act of parliament the parish- church, and invested with all the revenues and pertinents of Restalrig. A canonry or preceptory of religious knights, called canons of St. Anthony, and the only establishment of its class in Scotland, was, in 1435, founded in the town by Robert Logan of Restalrig. The canons were brought from St. Anthony of Vienne in France, the seat of their order; and they followed the rule of St. Augustine. They had, on the south-west corner of the alley which was named from them St. Anthony's-wynd, a church, a cemetery, a monastery, and gardens; they possess- ed various lands, tenements, and rents about Edin- burgh and Leith ; they got a grant of the chui-ch of Hales, in East Lothian; and they obtained a right to a Scottish quart of every tun of wine which was imported into Leith. In 1614, the preceptor}' was suppressed; its right of wine was transferred to the magistrates for the uses of the town ; and all its other rights and possessions were given to the kirk- session for endowing a benevolent establishment under the name of King James' hospital. Not a vestige of the buildings now remains, except some old vaults. But the seal of the convent — exhibiting St. Anthony habited in a hermit's mantle, with a book in one hand, a staff in the other, a belled sow at his foot, and a cross over his head, and bearing tlie legend, " S. Commune Preceptorins Sancti An- thonii Prope Leicht," — is preserved in the Advo- cates' library. Tlie Town of Leith is intimately related to Edin- burgh, both in position and in interests ; and might be variously defined. If ^^ewed with reference to parochial limits, it might be regarded as comprising not only its own proper mass of streets, but likewise all those parts of ICdinburgh which stand within the parish of South Leith ; or if viewed with re- ference simply to continuance of street -line, it might be regarded as connected with Edinburgh by the long street called Leith-walk, and as forming a twin-town with the metropolis. Previous to 1827, its limits, as a town, were not legally defined. What popularly Ijore the name, comprehended the barony of South Leith, part of North Leith connect- ed with the Imrgli of Canongate, the regality of citadel belonging to the coiporation of Edinburgh, and the bailiary of St. Anthony's belonging to the kirk-session of South Leith. In 1827, tlie boun- daries were adjusted by a statute providing for the municipal government of the town and suburbs ; and, generally speaking, were, Seafield toll-bar on the east, the frith of Forth on the north, the stone- bridge at Leith-mills on the west, and the foot of Leith-walk on the south. Tliis territory was to be called ' The Town of Leith.' More extensive boun- daries were assigned by the 2d and 3d Will. IV., cap. Co ; and, in a general view, tliese are the frith on the north, a line from the frith to Lochend on the east, the middle of Leith-w-alk on the south, and Wardie-burn on the west. The burgh, if it filled this territory strictly as a town, would vie with the metropolis in extent; for, in that case, it would be a town of 7 furlongs in breadth from north to south, and of 2^ miles or upwards in length from east to west. The limits include all the parish of North Leith, with, of course, the large suburb and sepa- rate harbour of Newhaven, — a portion of St. Cuth- bert's, about equal in extent to North Leith parish, — and very nearly one-third of the parish of South Leith. Viewed apart from arbitrary allocations, and regarded simply as a compact field of streets and houses, Leith, with the addition of its portion of Leith-walk and of some small suburban and straggling extensions, measures about f of a mile in length, and, at its broadest part, half-a-mile in breadth, — the length being parallel with the frith. Tlie site of the town is disadvantageous for the purposes at once of the port, the police, and the artist, — affording indifferent accommodations and capacities for a harbour, poor facilities for the drain- age and cleaning of the streets, and little scope for the imposing or agreeable intersectioning of thor- oughfares, or location of public buildings. An ex- panse of low ground, generally as level as a bowl- ing-green, receding from a flat sandy beach, which is left dry by the ebbing tide over a mile's breadth from high-water maik, could not, by even surpass- ing skill, be made the arena of either a picturesque town, or a very prosperous and facile port. The water of Leith, indeed, bisects the dreary level, or the insensibly descending slope ; but it is here a sluggish stream, generally of small volume, having scarcely power enough to carry its own freight of alluvium into the sea, and no capacity for sweeping well away the drainings of a large town, or of bringing boldly up into its recess a deep flood, or a sufficient sea-room of ship-liearing tide. The town, like its cognominal parochial territory, is cut by this rivuletinto the divisions of North Leith and South Leith. A stone -bridge, built by Robert Ballendean, ablwt of Holyrood, to afford the inhabi- tants on the east side access to the chapel which he erected in North Leith, was, for a long period, the- onlv medium of connexion between the two divi- sions. This venerable bridge having been at length removed, its place was supplied by two wooden drawbridges, which, besides doubling the facility of communication, admit the entrance and the egress of vessels on the bosom of the tide. On the south- ern outskirts of the town, too, a handsome stone- bridge was, a number of years ago, erected over the river, to carry a thoroughfare from the foot of Leith- walk direct into North Leith. LEITH. 310 LEITH. Seen from any of the high grounds of Edinburgh, or even closely examined in a walk round its own immediate environs, the town appears to be, if not picturesque, at least neat, showy, in scmie places beautiful, and in others eminently elegant. A large portion of it, however, particularly of South Leith, is really a confused arena of filthy alleys, squalid lanes, and dingy streets, — encinctured with a broad belt of pleasant buildings. North Leitli, which contains the docks, and anciently comprehended the citadel and the chief seat of traffic, was of old a congeries of low houses, huddled into groups or irregular lines, and straddling their way among nuisance in front and iu rear, very much in the style of a Portuguese or Spanish town of the pre- sent day. But within the last sixty years, particu- larly since about 1818, it has undergone great changes; and now, besides being disencumbered of the ungainly citadel and a crowd of pauper tene- ments in the vicinity, it presents toward the south and the west some entirely new streets, which vie in elegance with tliose of the second-rate part.s of the New Town of Edinburgh ; and altogether it may be pronounced at once airy, modern, and com- paratively well edificed and regular. Leitli-walk, which, in consequence of its connecting thorougli- fire along the new bridge with North Leith, may be viewed as common to the two divisions of the town, though in its own direct nortliward course it leads right into the principal thorougiifares of South Leith, — this spacious and beautiful street, so far as it belongs to Leith, is well lined on both sides with good houses, rises with regular and almost imper- ceptible ascent, and commands over all its length a good view of some of the most characteristic parts of the Calton-hill. Diverging a little eastward from the foot of Leith-walk, a brief thoroughfare leads the way into Leith-links. This is a beautiful grassy plain of nearly a mile in length from west to east, and of very considerable breadth, used as a place for athletic sports, and as a bleaching-ground and public promenade. On its north side, it is partly closed up by a wing of the town, and partly looks across the beach to the sea ; on its east side, it is skirted by some fine fields, villas, and pleasure- grounds ; and on its south and west sides, it is edi- ficed with rows of private houses, and iu two or three instances mottled with public edifices, which would be as harmonious with tlic immediate out- skirts of Edinburgh, as they are highly ornamental to those of Leith. Immediately behind the west side of the Links, but with tlie intervention of some brief streets and places, modern in structure, and of fair appearance. Constitution -street leads down northward from Leith-walk to the sea; and from its west side, near the foot, Bernard-street goes oft" west- ward to communicate with the quay at the lower drawbridge. Both of these streets are modern and spacious, generally well-edificed, and in some places handsome. Somewhat parallel with Constitution- street, going off", like it, in continuation of Leith- walk, and forming with it at the point of plunging into the town a very acute angle, is Kirkgate,^ — a street containing many modern houses, and display- ing much wealth, but, in general, orientally narrow, and presenting curious mixtures of the ancient and the modern. From the foot of Kirkgate, a thorough- fare, narrower and more disagreeable still, bearing tne dismal but not unsuitable name of Tolbooth- wynd, i^oes oft' westward to the quay at the upper drawbridge. This wynd and Kirkgate are notice- able chiefly from their having anciently formed the outlet from the quay to the country, and the path Df communication i)etween the harbour and the me- tropolis. The quay is the most ancient part of the town ; and, apart from its accommodation for ves- sels, consists of a terrace or one-sided street, curi- ously varied in the appearance of its houses, and winding parallel with the river for about half-a- mile to the commencement of the pier. From this terrace, alleys and lanes diverge eastward, to be crossed and chequered with narrow thoroughfares connecting them, and to form with these the great body of the town, or at least the seat of by far the greater part of its population. But one broad daub with the brush will give a picture of them all, — " they are, for the most part, irregularly and con- fusediy built," — and are " extremely filthy, crowd- ed, and inelegant." The public buildings of Leith are both numerous and interesting. The custom-house, situated at the North Leith or west end of the lower draw- bridge, was built in 1812, at the cost of £12,000. It is a large, massive, Grecian edifice, adorned in the centre of its chief front with pillars and pedi- ment, and having in the tympanum of its pediment a showy sculpture of the royal anns. — Leith-fort stands adjacent to the shore, on ground abruptly overlooking the beach, about i a ndle west of tlie custom-house. Originally it was merely a battery of nine guns, hastily constructed in an emergency for defending the harbour toward the close of the American war; but it was afterwards converted into a spacious artillery barrack, wiiicli became the head-quarters of the royal artillery in Scotland, and is kept in excellent order. — The Exchange build- ings, situated on the east side of Constitution- street, opposite Bernard-street, were erected at the cost of £16,000. They exhibit an elegant facade, three stories high, with rusticated basement, sur- mounted in the centre by a massive, attached, Ionic portico; and they contain a hotel, a spacious assembly-room, and a commodious puldic news- room. — The court-house or town-hall, situated iu the angle of Constitution-street and Ciiarlotte-street, was built in 1827, at the cost of £3,300. It displays an elegant Ionic front, on the side of Constitution- street, and has a Doric porch on the side of Char- lotte-street. It is far superior, in botii size and ornament, to what might have been expected from its cost; and it contains accommodation both for the sheriff-court and for the police establishment. — The corn exchange, at a corner of Baltic street, was built in 1860-2, at a cost of about £7,000; is in the Koman style; has a large octagonal tower, with a dome; and includes a rear corn-hall, 1 10 feet long and 70 feet wide, with a one-span roof. — The office of the National bank, formerly the office of the Leitli l)ank, was built in 1806. It stands on the south side of Bernard-street, and is ornamental to that localitv, having a semicircular projecting front, riblied with Ionic columns, and crowned with a dome. — The markets of Leith, occupying the site of the old custom-liouse and excise-office, east of the quondam jail in Tolbooth-wynd, were erected in 1818, partiv by voluntar}' subscription, and partly by a lo;in of £2,000 from the Merchant Company of Leith. They are commodious, and of creditable appear- ance. — Tiie slaughter-house, in Salamander-street, was built in 1862, at a cost of about £4,000; has a frontage of 105 feet, compiising centre and wings; and extends backward 132 feet, in two lines of build- ing, with wide intermediate roadway. — The Edin- burgh and Leitli gas-works, near the sliore, adjacent on the east to the corn-exchange, are a large unsight- ly mass of building. The Seafield baths, situated at the eastern extre- mity of the Links, overlooking one of the finest parts of the beach, were built in 1813, at the cost of £8,000, raised in shares of £50. The edific; is LEITH. Ml LEITH. large and handsome. Its lower floors contain 17 hot, cold, and tepid baths, besides a large plunge- bath; and the rest of it is occupied as a hotel and lodgings, for the accommodation of visitors to tlie baths. — The Trinity-house, erected in 1817, at the cost of £2,500, and occupying a confined site on the west side of Kirkgate, is a handsome Grecian edi- fice, the successor of a venerable building which stood on the same spot, and was erected in 1555. It contains several remarkable pictures, particularly a curious old view of Leith, a portrait of Mary of Lorraine by Mytens, a fine portrait of Admiral Lord Duncan, and David Scott's grand painting of Vasco de Gama passing the Cape of Good Hope. From time immemorial the shipmasto-s and mariners of Leith received from all the vessels of tlie port, and all Scottish vessels visiting it, certain duties called ' prime gilt,' which were expended in aiding poor sailors; and near the middle of the 16th century, they acquired a legal right to levy the prime gilt dues, and apply them in maintaining an hospital, and sustaining ' poor, old, infirm, and weak mari- ners.' Previous to 1797, the association, though calling itself ' The Corporation of Shipmasters of the Trinity-house of Leith,' were a corporation only by the courtesy of popular language, and possessed the powers of only a charitable body ; but in that year they were regularly erected by charter into a corporate body, whose office-bearers were to be a master, an assistant- master, a deputy -master, a manager, a treasurer, and a clerk, and were vested with powers to examine and under their common seal to license persons to be pilots, and to exact ad- mission fees from the licentiates. Their income, from all sources, inclusive of the proceeds of realized property, amounts to about £2,200 a-year. — The grammar-school, or High-school, stands on the south-west corner of the Links, and was built in 1806. It is a spacious, oblong edifice, of two sto- ries, with neat front, consisting of one of its longer sides, surmounted in the centre by a small cupola- covered square lanthern, with public clock. The predecessor of it was an old building opposite Trinity - house, in Kirkgate, originally used for other purposes than tuition, and called King James' hospital. — Dr. Bell's school, situated on the south side of Junction-street, was built in 1839. It is a large oblong edifice, extending backwards from the street, with handsome gable facade in the collegiate style of architecture, flanked by low, small, battle- mented towers, and having in its centre a beautiful canopied niche, with full-length statue. — The Epis- copal school, on the north side of Junction-street, is a large, double-roofed, high-ridged, plain, Gothic edifice, erected in 1856. — The Poor-house, also on the north side of Junction street, is a long, three- storied building, with dormer windows and cruci- form centre, airily situated within a high stone en- closure. It was erected in 1850, and contains ac- commodation for 280 persons.— The Leith hospital and Gladstone's female asylum are good recent build- ings on the SherifF-brae, adjacent to St. Thomas' church. The former is under the management of a committee, with a full staff of medical officers; and the latter contains means for the residence and support of ten females labouring under incurable diseases. The parish church of North Leith, situated at the western extremity of the town, not far from Leith- fort. was brxilt in 1816, at the cost of £12,000. It is of an oblong form, having one of the ends as its front, adorned with a tetrastyle Ionic portico, sur- mounted Ijy a tower of three stages, and an octan- gular spire. The first and second stages of the tower are quadrangular, the third is octangular, and all the three have columns at the angles, — the first Doric columns, the second Ionic, and the third Corinthian. The top of the spire is only 158 feet from the ground ; but, in consequence of the site being comparatively elevated, the whole steeple figures conspicuously in most exterior views of the town. The predecessor of this church, re-erected' immediately after the Keformation, still stands in a by-street near tlie end of the upper drawljridge, abandoned to secular purposes, and represented bv a miserable spire.— The parish chureli of South Leith, situated in an open space occupied as a cemetery between Kirkgate and Constitution-street, is the representative of the ancient chapel of St. Mary. It was formerly cniciform, in cathedral Gothic fashion, but underwent several great addi- tions and dilapidations; and it consists at present of central and side aisles, which are very ancient, and of western front and tower, which were erected within the last few years. The edifice, as a whole, is harmonious and substantial ; and the new parts of it display a tasteful mixture of Gothic and Saxon, while the tower terminates in a very elegant Gothic balustrade. David Lindsay, who baptized Charles I., and became bishop of Ross, was a minister of this church; Logan the poet also was a minister of it; and John Home, the author of 'Douglas,' was interred in the surrounding cemetery.— St. Thomas' church, on the Sheriff- brae, was erected, after a design by Henderson of Edinburgh, at a cost of £10,000. It is built in the Korman style, with chevrons round the doorway, and is surmounted by a heavy square tower and octangular spire. — The North Leith Free church, in the north- \vestern outskirts, is a heavy Gothic structure, with lofty steeple, built in 1858-9. The Junction- street Free church is comparatively plain. The Free mariners' church, situated in an angle of streets near the docks, is a conspicuous building, in the early Gothic style, with handsome doorway and main window, flanked by two small octagonal towers and spires. The South Leith Free church presents to the Links a treble-gabled Saxon facade. St. John's Free church is an imposing edifice, in early Gothic, with a massive tower of two stages, the first stage quadrangular, and surmounted by pinna- cles at the angles, the second stage octangular, and surmounted by balustrade and numerous pinnacles. Adjoining the facjade, in the form of wings to it, and in a style harmonious with it, are suites of schoolrooms. — The North Leith United Presl^yterian church has a Gothic front, with central pediment and balustrade, and with flanking embrasured turrets. The Junc- tion-street United Presbyterian church has a Koman front, with Doric pilasters. The St. Andrew's Place United Presbyteiian church has a tetrastyle Ionic portico. The Kirkgate United Presbyterian church is a plain building.— St. James' Episcopalian church is in fine early Gothic style, and has a handsome tow- er, intended to be surmounted by a spire. — The In- dependent chapel has a Roman front with Ionic pilas- ters. — The Roman Catholic chapel is a cruciform high-roofed building, in coarse early Gothic. The extinct public edifices of Leith, and its re- markable localities, compete in interest with its modern public structures. Not the least noticeable were its fortifications. Those which rendered it a walled town were raised in 1549, amid the hurri- cane which swept over Scotland during the infancy of Mary. They were built by d'Esse, the French general, to give Marj' of Lorraine's party a footing against Edinburgh castle, which held out for the Protestants; and were strong enough to offer suc- cessful defiance to all the besieging efforts of the Protestant forces. The rampart was octagonal. LEITH. 312 LEITH. with a bastion at each of the eight angles, 'i'lie first bastion, called Ramsay's fort, was situated on the east side of the river between the beach and the west end of the present Bernard-street, and was designed to protect the harbonr. The wall ran from this in a south-east direction ; and tbe second bastion stood on the site of the present Exchange buildings, and long survived in some remains which were ascended by a flight of stone steps, and used as a promenade under tbe name of the Ladies'-walk. Tlie site of the third bastion was opposite the point where Coatfield-lane now joins Constitution-street; that of the fourth was at the top of Kiikgate ; that of the fifth is not accurately known. The wall came down on the river exactly 115 yards below tbe site of tbe new stone bridge at tlie saw-mills, and was connected witii its continuation on tbe west side of the stream by means of a wooden bridge. The sixth bastion, though its site, like that of tlie fifth, is not precisely ascertained, must have stood on the west side of tlie river, and in its immediate vicinity; the seventh stood near the site of tbe cita- del ; and the eighth stood at tbe Sandport, overlook- ing the harbour, and corresponding with Ramsay's fort on tbe opposite side of tlie stream. Of the various forts, one was called St. Anthony's, from tlie vicinity to it of St. Anthony's preceptory; and another, and the chief, was called tbe Block-house, and formed tbe grand outlet for sallies upon be- siegers. The wall was constructed wholly of stone, and seems to have been a line of stout masonry; and the bastions were of great strength. The forti- fications, after the triumph of the Protestant party in 1560, Avere so far destroyed as to be rendered useless; tbey were temporarily re-edified in 1571, by tbe Earl of Morton, during tbe regency of the Earl of Lennox; but tliey have long since been so entirely razed as to betray an occasional and small vestige only during tbe yawn of some ephemeral excavation. — On the Links are still some moundish, though inconsiderable, memorials of works thrown up by the besieging Protestant forces, either to cover their advance toward the rampart, or to mount their artillery for playing upon it and its defenders. — The citadel of Leith was greatly enlarged, and, in fact, chiefly constructed, by the army of Oliver Cromwell. It stood on the North Leith side of the river, and covered a considerable area. It was pentagonal in outline, or in its exterior defence, with a bastion at each of the five angles ; and it had a principal gate opening to the east. In tbe interior it had a ledgy ascent of fortification, excellent magazines, stores, and houses for tbe garrison, a suitable place of wor- ship, and a spacious court-yard. After the Restor- ation, these erections were in a great measure de- stroyed, and the site of them granted to the Duke of Lauderdale, then prime minister for Scotland to Cliarles II. No vestige of the defence now remains, except a Saxon archwaj', and a few yards of the wall, the archway now surmounted by a modem bouse. Lord Balmerino's house, a stately old mansion, stood a little oflT the line of Kirkgate, between Char- lotte-street and Coatfield-lane, and was entered by a low arched close from Kirkgate, and through a garden from Constitution-street. Charles II., when invited, in 1650, to Scotland by the Scottish parlia- ment, slept in this house on tlie night after his ar- rival at the port. The bouse was taken down about 20 years ago. — Various fabrics compete for the noto- riety of having been tbe residence, during tbe period of her military quarrel with tbe Protestants, of Mary nf LoiTaine, the Queen-regent, and tbe mother of Queen Mary. Wliat seems to have been the real honae. and that also which received for a season Oliver Cromwell, was a building of rather elegant exterior, situated in Queen-street, formerly called tbe Pauiicb-market. The house was taken down .about 18 years ago. Its Avindow-frames were ail formed of oak, richly carved; and tbe panellings of tlie doors were of the same wood, and beautil'uil}' embellished. — A fine old mansion, spacious, of im- posing aspect, sculptured with crowns, sceptres, and other decorations, and said to have been tlie resi- dence of tbe Regent Lennox, stands between tiie end of Tolbooth-wynd and St. Andrew's-street, in a filthy court pompously called Parliament-square, and entered by a small lane leading off from the north side of St. Andrew's-street, nearly opposite the end of tbe Sheep's-bead-wynd. The King's- work, a cluster of very ancient buildings, occupying a large area, and occasionally graced with tbe pre- sence of ni.ajesty, stood between Bernard-street and the Bioad-wynd. — The house inbabited by the pa- rents of John Home, the author of ' The Tragedy of Douglas,' and in which he was born in 1722, stood at the corner of Quality-street, and was pulled down 30 or 35 years ago, to make room for new buildings. — TJie locality formerly called Little London is between Bernard-street and Quality-street. — The Timber-bourse is in the A-icinity, and though en- tirely changed in appearance, it retains its ancient name, slightly disguised in the corrupted form ot Timber-bush. — The spot on which George IV.landed, on occasion of his visit to Scotland in 1822, is in front of the Ship-tavern, and is indicated by an iron plate with an inscription. Tbe original harbour of Leith was nothing more than the mere gut formed by tbe discbarge of the water of Leitb. It was narrow and curved, and entirely tidal. Except for tbe gut being traversed by the small shallow stream, it was quite dry at low water, or at least contained nothing but mud and nuisance. And as the stream bad to make its way to tbe sea across the very broad flat beach called Leith sands, and alternately flooded by the tide and left entirely dry, the channel tliere was sulyect to much fluctuation, according to tbe different direction of the wind and set of the tides. A bar, too — such as is naturally throw up at the entrance of every river harbour — lay across its mouth, at tbe point where the antagonist currents of tbe river and tlie tide balanced each other, so as to let down in de- posit whatever silt they contained. The river also, being tbe main drain of' a tract of bill country which is much subject to droughts and to heavy rains, con- stantly altered both tbe depth of the harbour and the height and position of tbe bar, according to tbe fluctuations which occurred in the volume of its water, or in the rapidity of its discharge ; for, in a season of drought, it made no resistance to a filling up of tlie channel and tbe harbour by sediment from tbe tides, and in a season of rain, it scoured the harbour, diminished the bar and drove it seaward, and deepened tbe cliannel toward the side-streams of the frith. All attempts, therefore, to obtain a good or practicable harbour at Leith, were neces- sarily limited to tbe erection of broad piers far sea- ward at points not touched by the river, or the con- struction of long pier-lines fitted to divert tbe ctu'- rent of tbe tides and give the river a mastery over them, and enable it to sweep away or diminish the bar, and to the cutting of docks for the reception of vessels on tbe bosom of high water, and tbe main taining of accommodation for them beyond tbe ruth- less mercy of tbe receding tide. A wooden pier was constructed, or a previously existing one renovated, by the Earl of Hertford, when be visited tlie pori in 1544; but it was de- stroj-ed on his departure, and has left no relic to in- LEITH. 313 LEITH. dicate its exact site. Another wooden pier was erected early in the 17th century, resting on strong pillars in a compact bed of wliinstone and clay, and, till only about 27 years ago, when it disappeared before tlie progress of extensive improvement, it firmly withstood the rough contacts of shipping and the weather-. Between the years 1720 and 1730 a stone-pier, in continuation of this wooden one, which very trivially assisted the poor natural facilities of the harbour, was carried 100 yards seaward, con- structed partly of stones from the ruins of a curious coal-pit at Culross; and this, in some degree, re- medied the difficalty and hazardousness of the na- vigation inward, but still left the entrance of the harbour encumbered with a bar, shifting and unsafe. Contemporaneous in origin with this improvement was the oldest dock, commenced in 1720, and situ- ated on the west side of the river, behind a house not far from Bridge-street, and bearing the date 1622. During the remainder of the 18th century, various surveys and reports were made with a view to further improvement; but they led to nothing except the construction in 1777 of a short pier, after- wards known as the custom-house quay. The accommodation for shipping was insutiicient and unendurable, the common quays being the chief landing-places, and the channel of the river offering to vessels only a seat of uncovered aild adhesive mud at the I'ecess of tiie tides ; and as the trade of the port rapidly increased toward the close of the century, the accommodation loudly demanded both enlargement and amelioration. The distinguished John Rennie, civil engineer, was now employed, in 1799, to examine the ground, and to form designs of docks and extended piers on a scale somewhat proportioned to the amount of the emergency. The gravamen of his report was, that no permanent and uniform depth of water along the harbour or gut of the river could be obtained, and no achievement toward the extinction of a shift- nig bar could be effected, except by carrying a pier or weir on the east side of the channel quite across the sands into low water, but that by this means 3 or possibly 4 feet of additional depth of water might be obtained; yet, though the soundness of his prin- ciple has been vindicated by the result of subsequent opei'ations which were undertaken by its guidance, little or nothing was done at his suggestion, nor for many years afterwards, with regard to the piers or entrance. An immediate result, however, was the construction of a splendid suite of docks, at the cost of about £285,000. Two wet docks, each 250 yards long and 100 wide, were, with three graving docks on their north side, commenced in 1800 and completed in 1817, and were protected from the sea by a strong retaining wall. A third and larger dock on tlie west, designed to reach nearly to Newbaven, was projected; but this and all kindred matters which accorded with the magnificence of INIr. Eennie's designs and of the intentions of bis employers, tlie town-council of Edinburgh, were thrown into abe_v- ance during that eminent engineer's life by a total failure of funds. In 182-1, in response to renewed and aroused demand, Mr. W. Chapman of Newcastle was employed to make surveys and plans ; and as the result of his report, and of subsequent voluminous correspondence with government on the subject of a naval and store-yard, the eastern pier was extended about 1,500 feet so as to have an entire length of 2,550 feet, or more than half-a-mile, a western pier and breakwater was erected to the extent of 1,500 feet, terminating within 200 feet of the other, and a part of the western end of the western dock was set apart as a store-yard for the naval service. After many and agitating movements to find some remedy for the great existing evils, Mr. Walker and Mr. Cubbitt, two eminent engineers in London, were sent down in the winter of 1838-9, by the Lords of the Treasury, to undertake jointly the duty of pro- viding their lordships "with such a plan as will secure to the port of Leith the additional accommo- dation required by its shipping and commercial in- terests, including the provision of a loAv-water pier," the cost being limited to £125,000. These gentlemen, after inspecting the ground, and considering the pre- vious plans of various engineers, differed from each other in opinion, and formed and recommended three difterent designs. Renewed perplexity and indeci- sion followed; and though one of the designs, by Mr. Walker, which adopted all the previous works as parts or bases of its whole scheme, seemed to re- commend itself to the special approbation of the Lords of tlie Treasury, yet not till after another survey and plan were made by anotlier enixineer, Mr. Kindell, with the eff"ect of a further" delav of several years, could anything effective be com- menced toward the remedying of the existing evils. " It is fully admitted," said the Tidal Harbours Commission, in 1848, " that a long, flat, foreshore, half-a-mile in extent, drifting sand, and other diffi- culties which had to be encountered in improving the harbour, were great, but not such that unan- imity on the part of those who had the manage- ment, skilful engineering, and perseverance in carrying out the plan recommended, might not have overcome. The great principle of improvement at Leith, namely, to get a deep-water entrance to the harbour channel, whether to the westward or to the eastward, has been recognised by all the eminent engineers who have been consulted ; yet, although more than a quarter of a million of public money has been laid out in its docks and other works (an advantage not enjoyed by any other harbour in Scotland), and its income latterly has exceeded £25,000 a-year, still there is so great a want of ac- commodation that vessels are obliged to lie four and five a -breast alongside the quays ; there is no patent - slip nor gra\-ing - dock that can take in steamers, so that they have to be sent to Dundee or to London for repair ; no low-water jetty for landing passengers and light goods ; and the entrance to the harbour at low tides is all but dry. Indecision or half-measures seem to have been the bane of the port. It was obvious some twelve years since that nothing but a good low-water landing-place, to accommodate the passenger traffic between London and Edinburgh, could retain the large steamers at Leith. Instead of boldly grappling with the diffi- culty, taking the best advice, and at once deciding upon carrying out a wide substantial pier to the westward or to the eastward, as might have been found expedient, into 10 feet depth of water, an eastern pier, too slight and narrow, and too exposed to bear the traffic, or to lay a line of rails upon, has taken 16 years to complete, and has just reached low-water mark. Tlie consequence is, as might have been anticipated, that most of the steam-boat traffic has been transferred to a neighbouring pier, and the loss to the harbour revenue is stated at £5.000 a-year. Complaints are made that tlie table of shore-dues has not been ]'evised for the last 60 years ; that it is full of anomalies ; that the dues are levied in Scottish money ; and that dock dues are exacted of vessels that cannot possibly pass the dock gates; that rubbish and filth, without check or control, is thrown into the water of Leith and washed down into the harbour ; and that the fine steamers that trade between London, Hull, and Leith, are daily subjected to lie a-ground, with the LEITH. 314 LEITH. risk of strain to their hulls and to their machinery, in a dry harhour." In 1848, a hill passed parliament both for revising the schedule of ratis, and for empowering the ex- ecution of Mr. Kendall's plan of improvements. Tlie principal features of that plan were, that the eastern pier be extended 1,000 feet, to a point where there would be 8 feet of depth at low water of springtides; that the western breakwater be con- verted into a pier, and extended 1,750 feet in a direction north by west, and be made snlistantial enough to bear a railway ; tliat a low-water landing- place be formed at tlie extremity of the west pier, 350 feet in length, well-sheltered, provided with every accommodation, having around it 9 feet of depth at low water of spring tides; that the chan- nel or fairway be so deepened by dredging as to have 20 feet of depth at hi'^^li water of neap tides, and 25 feet at h'gh water of spring tides; that a new dock be formed contiguous to the existing east dock, 700 feet in lengtli, 300 feet in width, tlius comprising an area of 4j acres, with 1,900 feet of lineal wharfage, averaging 100 feet in width ; that this dock be so excavated as to have fully 21 feet of water at the lowest neap tides, — that its gates be 60 feet wide so as to afford ample scope for the passage of the largest sea-going steamers, — and that its walls be formed of substantial masonry, except on the outside to the north and the west, to admit of tlie construction of graving docks at a future period. The estimated cost, for the piers and the channel, was £79,000; and for the new dock, £56,000,— altogether, £135,000. The works were begun and carried forward with all possible expedition; and they became full}'' available in the course of 1855. The quays then had an aggregate length of 8,400 feet, and were well furnished with cranes and sheds. There were then five graving docks; and the con- struction of another, on a great scale for vessels of the largest class, was effected in 1859-62. The cost of this, and of the works connected with it, is said to have been £100,000. The outer bulwark is 1,200 feet long, and 20 feet high; the entrance required about 400 feet of the east pier to be taken down ; and the dock itself is 400 feet long, and has an iron caisson in lieu of tlood-gates. The commencement of another great extension of the harbour works was contracted for in 1863. Tiiis extension will cover 62 acres of the east sands over which the tide flows; will reqniie five years for completion; and is esti- mated to cost £341,000. A sea-wall, on the north, will begin at the east breakwater, about 650 feet seaward of the entrance to the graving dock, and run 3,800 feet eastward ; and a bank will begin at the eastern extremity of this, and run 1,100 feet southward to the shore. Within the enclosed space will be a basin of rather more than two acres, a lock, 350 feet by 60; and two docks, each 450 feet wide, averaging' 1.000 feet long, and jointly compris- ing an area of 21 acres, and po'ssessing an aggregate lineal wharfage of about 5,600 feet. Other features of the works will be of corresponding character. The general anchoring-ground of vessels is two miles from land ; and, in the case of large steamers, is westward of Leith, or nearly opposite Newhaven. During the European war, the roadstead was the station of an Admiral's guard-ship and several cruizers ; and during the recent war with Russia, it was the winter station of some ships of the Baltic fleet. A round martello tower was constructed ad- jacent to the entrance of the harbour, during the European war, by the government, at a cost of nearly £17,000. A lightliouse, for the guidance of vessels entering the harbour, was constructed on the end of the old east pier, having a stationary light, for exhi))ition during the period of there being not less than 9 feet of water on the bar; and sonic distance landward of it, on the pier, was erected a signal-tower for displaying during the day a series of signals indicative of the progress or retrogress of the tide. After the ])ier was extended to the length of 2,500 feet, and while doubts still existed whether the grand recent improvements would be under- taken, a second lighthouse was erected at a distance of 1.500 leet from the former one, exhibiting a brilliant red gas light, and serving, with the inner light, to guide vessels safely from the frith to the channel of the harbour fair- way. Since the execu- tion of the recent improvements, the guiding-lights into the fair- way are that of the outer lighthouse on the east pier, and that of a new lighthouse erected at the extremity of the west pier. In the early years of the present century, there was erected contiguous to the new wet docks, and parallel with them, a long line of lofty spacious Avarehouses, to serve for the bonding of goods and for other purposes connected with the general business of a great har- bour. This line of edifices is on an uniform plan, and of great extent, forming nearly the whole of the north side of Commercial-street. Tlie aggregate extent of warehouses in other pails of the town, particularly in the vicinity of the harbour, is also great. Some years ago, the whole line of the wet docks was lighted with gas, and a chain of water- pipes was laid down in such a manner as to enable all vessels to take in their supplies of water at their berths. Lines of railway communicate from the low- water landing-place, and from the sides of the docks, to a branch terminus of the North British railway in Commercial street; that terminus, besides presenting to the street a frontage of building pleasingly orna- mental, is both conveniently situated, and internally commodious ; and merchandise of any description ca n be taken direct from ships into trucks on the quays, and conveyed witliout change of carriage to any important railway station in any part of Scotland or England. The right of property over the harbour of Leith formerly belonged to tlie city of Edinburgh. 'J'he deeds in which that right originated, and by which it was modified and confirmed, Avill be afterwards mentioned. The district comprehended by the right included the whole shore, beach, sands, and links, between Seafield toll-bar on the east and Wardie-burn on the west. All the shore -dues levied within these limits went into the city's general coffers, excepting a merk per ton which was appropriated toward the stipends of the city clergy. In 1 788, the magistrates and council of Edinburgh obtained an act of parliament authoriz- ing them to borrow £30,000 for the purpose of im- proving the harbour, and of opening up the streets in its vicinity ; and at subsequent periods, they ob- tained several other acts of kindred chai-acter, with extended powers of borrowing. Previous to 1825, exclusive of sums borrowed and repaid, they owed £25,000 to government, and £240,000 to other par- ties, for loans obtained for harbour improvements; and in that year they received from government an advance of £240,000 out of the consolidated fund, to enable them to take up the bonds which they had issued. Three per cent, of interest was to be paid to government for this advance, and two per cent, was to go to a sinking fund; but for twelve years, one per cent, of the interest was to be abated, in consideration of an agreement to extend the eastern pier, and to improve its works. The considerations given to government, in lieu of the entire debt to them, were the cession of part of the west dock and shore-ground for the uses of the Admiralty, a pre- LEITH. 315 LEITH. ferable claim over the whole of the dock and har- bour property, and a concurrent claim with other creditors over the entire property of the city of Edinburgh. At the bankruptcy of the city in 1833, the harbour of Leith shared largely in "the city's embarrassments. The operation of the sinking- fund, against that time, had cleared off the £25,000 due to the government previous to 1825; so that the amount of debt then due to the government was £240,000. Various and pi'otracted negotiations were carried on with the government and with the otlier city creditors, before any satisfactory arrange- ment could be reached. But at length, in 1838, an act of parliament was passed, providing that the management of Leith harbour should be committed to eleven commissioners, appointed variously by the town of Leith, the city of Edinburgh, and the Lords of the Treasury ; tliit the interest on the debt to government should be postponed; that a sum of £7,680 a-year, from the proceeds of the harbour- dues, should be paid to the city of Edinburgh ; and that power should be possessed by the commission- ers to borrow additional sums on the security of the docks, not exceeding £125,000, to be expended in effecting additional harbour improvements. Both the coasting trade and the foreign and colonial trade of Leith are of great e.Ktent. The wliole Baltic trade with the east of Scotland was at one time concentrated here ; but tliis has been mainly drawn off to Kirkcaldy, Arbroath, Montrose, Aberdeen, and especially Dundee. In connexion with the naval station in the roads, the port enjoyed much prosperity during the war as a place for Jie condemnation and sale of prize-vessels ; and, in consequence of Buonaparte's notable continental scheme of prevention, it was the seat of an extensive traffic for smuggling British goods into tlie conti- nent by way of Heligoland, which employed many vessels, crowded its harbour, and greatly enriched not a few of its inhabitants. The Greenland whale- trade also, for a considerable time, engaged a large tonnage of the Leith shipping. The present foreign ti'ade of the port is very discursive, being carried on vuiiously with Russia, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Holland, the south-western countries of Europe, the Levant, America, the West Indies, the East Indies, Australia, and China. The shipping be- longing to the port in 1692, comprised 29 vessels, of aggregately 1,702 tons; in 1740, it comprised 47 vessels, of aggregately 2,628 tons; and in 1752, it comprised 68 vessels, of aggregately 6,935 tons. It steadily and rapidly increased in tonnage, from the last of these dates till the close of the century ; it increased slowly from the beginning of the present century till 182(5; and it decreased, to the amount of 3,60l'tons, between 1826 and 1835. Its average amotmt in the years 1840-1844 was 26,600 tons; and in the years 1845-1849, 24,536 tons; but these last figures are exclusive of steam-vessels. In 1854, the number of sailing vessels was 181, of aggregatelv 24,357 tons, — of steam vessels, 28, of aggregately 3,94G tons; in 1860, the number of sailing vessels was 129, of aggregately 22,439 tons, — of steam vessels, 48, of aggregately 10,864 tons. In 1830, the gross receipt of the customs was £444,411; in the average of the years 1840-1844, £606,625; in the average of the years 1845-1849, £.5.52,036; in the year 1864, £431,610. The port, in its custom-house relations, extends from the west side of Cramond-water, eastward to St. Abb's Head, and compreliends the ci'eeks of Cramond, Granton, Fisherrow, Morison's haven, Cockenzie, Aberlady, North Berwick, and Dunbar. But, of the total of £24,534 reported for shore and harbour dues in the year 1852, so much as £23,991 was levied at the harbour - proper or town of Leith; three of the creeks, however, Granton, Cockenzie, and North Berwick not having made any report. The principal imports at Leith are grain, hemp, hides, tallow, timber, wine, and tobacco; and the principal exports are linens, cottons, silks, woollens, haberdasher}^, iron, hardware, machinery, fish, coals, and miscellaneous goods. The declared value oi exports in 1831, was £197,040; in 1836, £200,496; in 1841, £153,371; in 1846, £92,474; in 1851, £389,293; in 1852, £491,293; in 1853, £575,067 ; in 1854, £527,697. The maximum in any year be- tween 1831 and 1850, was £273,488, which was in 1833 ; and the minimtim was £88,349, which was in 1845. The items, as reported for 1851, were coals, £5,128 ; cottons, by the yard, £47,746 ; cot- tons, by value, £2,528; cotton yarn, £25,232 ; fish, £7,145; haberdashery and millinery, £7,921 ; hard- wares and cutlery, £197; iron and steel, £49,249; linens, by the yard, £67,090; linens, by value, £770; linen yarn, £68,960; machinery and mill- work, £5,319; silk manufactures, £3,561 ; woollens, by the piece, £4,471 ; woollens, by the yard, £8,278; woollens, by value, £151; woollen yarn, £25,177 ; all other articles, £60,370. In the average of the years 1840-1844, the shipping trade of the port comprised a tonnage of 71,401 in the foreign trade in British vessels, 53,316 in the foreign trade in foreign vessels, and 537,523 in the coasting- trade; and in the average of the years 1845-1849 it com- prised a tonnage of 93,703" in the foreign trade in British vessels, 64,814 in the foreign trade in foreign vessels, and 567,084 in the coasting trade. In 1853 it comprised a tonnage of 59,683 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 87,869 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, 249,427 inwards in the coasting trade, 42,959 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 28,929 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, and 239,446 outwards in the coasting trade; and in 1860, it comprised a tonnage of 108,840 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 125,096 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, 243,273 inwards in the coasting trade in British vessels, 1,838 inwards in the coast- ing trade in foreign vessels, 76,570 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 29,609 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreigii vessels, 235,697 outwards in the coasting trade in British vessels, and 1.671 outwards in the coasting trade in foreign vessels. Trade by steam with distant ports has lately been much increased, partly in consequence of the increase of telegraphic communication. Steam ves- sels, either from Leith or from Gi-anton, now ply to Hamburgh twice a-week; to Stettin once a-week; to Dunkirk, to Pillau, and to Danzig every ten davs; to Botterdam and to Copenhagen once a fort- night; to Newcastle every Wednesday and Satur- day ; to Hull every Wednesday ; to London evevy Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday; to Aberdeen twice a-week; to the Moray frith, WicR, Thurso, Kirkwall, and Lerwick, once a-week; to Pittenweem and Anstruthcr, every Monday, Wed- nesday, and Friday; to Alloa and Stirling, once or twice "every day ; and to Burntisland, in communi- cation with th"e railway trains of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway, several times a-day. Packet vessels sail from Leith to London every Saturday and Wednesday; to Liverpool, once in three weeks; to Peterhead, once a-week ; to Fraser- burgh, once a-fortnight; to Kirkwall, every Thurs day; to Lerwick, every three weeks; to Greenock and Glasgow, twice "a-week ; to Stirling, every LEITH. 310 LEITH. Wednesday and Saturday ; to Charleston, tlie port of Dunfermline, every Thursday; to Burntisland, every two days; to Elie, every Friday; to Kirk- caldy, daily; and to Lcven, every Friday. Kail- way trains run from Commercial-street in North Leith, to the general terminus in Edinburgh, every thirty minutes ; and omnibuses run from the head of Bernard-street, opposite tlie Exehangrt buildings, to tlie middle of the High-street of J'2dinburgh, every six minutes during the greater part of each dav. A branch railway for goods and passengers commences at the foot of Constitution-street and ex- tends along the shore into comnninication with the main trunk of the North-British line near Portobello. Leith, though not in a strict sense a manufactur- ing town, or the seat of any staple produce, possess- es a great variety of proilnctive establishments, — some of them of considerable or even great magni- tude. Ship-building is carried On in several yards, and has produced many large steamers and bulky sailing-vessels. The Fury, the first line-of-battle ship constructed in Scotland after the Union, was built on the site of the present custom-house. A government steamer, larger than any steam-ship ever previously built in Leith. and a merchant-ship larger than any sailing-vessel ever previously con- stiiicted in the place, were botli commenced in 1840. — The manufacture of glass has long been conspicuous in Leith. and is supposed to have been introduced by English settlers in the time of Crom- well. Seven huge brick conical chimneys, situated along the shore of South Leith. and forming a marked feature of the burghal landscape, are de- voted to this manufacture. One of these cones was built, immediately after the rebellion of 1745, by the soldiers then stationed in Edinburgh castle, who were the only brick-builders that could be found. — An extensive suite of saw-mills is situated on the right bank of the water of Leith, immediately above the stone bridge. A very extensive engineer- ing establishment occupies the same bank of the river, immediately below that bridge. A very large establishment for the refining of sugar, employing upwards of 80 pei'sons, and consuming nearly 4.000 tons of coals in the year, is situated a little further down, on the opposite side of the river. A large establishment for the preservation of all kinds of fresh meat and vegetables, for consumption at sea, was established in 1838. The making of sail-cloth and ropes is carried on to a great extent, in eight establishments. A paint and colour work on a more extensive scale than any other in Britain, was com- menced about 1833; and now there are in the town five colour-manufacturers. There are also 5 master-coopers, 4 iron-founders, 3 machine-makers. 2 ship-carvers, 2 candle-makers, 2 soap-makers, 5 skinners and wool dealers, 3 tanners, 6 tobacconists, 3 basket-makers, 1 pipe-maker, and a large variety and full complement of masters and men in all the ordinary departments of handicraft, as well as in such as have any special connexion with the wants of a great port. — A very large unsightly mass of building, in the southern environs of the town, in the vicinity of Bonnington, was long known as Leith distillery, but has been recently converted into a grain mill. A chemical work stands ad- jacent to it. A very large corn mill, propelled by steam, was commenced in ]8o0, in the centre of the town ; but it suffered severe damage by fire, and was converted to other purposes. A large grain mill was erected about eight years ago at Swan- field, opposite Silverfield, and is still in operation. Another very large one, looking to the eye like an extensive factory, situated between the foot of Leith- walk and the Easter-road, was finished in 185G. The banking offices in Leith are those of the Bank of Scotland, the Royal Bank, the British Linen Company's Bank, the Connnercial Bank, the National Bank, the Union Bank, and the Clydesilale Bank. There is also a National Security savings' bank. The institutions of the town, additional to some which have already been inci- dentally mentioned, and exclusive of those connect- ed with municipal affairs, are the incorporation of traffickers or merchant company, the Leith chamber of commerce, the Leith mercantile marine board, the Exchange buildings association, the Exchange reading-room, the Leith public library, the Leith mechanics' subscription library, the shipwrecked fishermen and mariners' royal benevolent society, the Edinburgh and Leith humane society, the Leith society for relief of the destitute sick, the Leith auxiliary to the British and Foreign Bible society, the Leith religious tract society, the Leith local Sabbath school society, the parochial board of managers of the poor, and various other minor institutions. Three newspapers are published in the town.- — the Ijcith Commercial List on every Tuesday and Frida}', and the other two on every Saturday. The Leith races, commenced in the time of Charles IL, and annually held on Leith sands in July or Auiiust, were long the occasion of a carnival-week of dissipation and folly to the inhabitants of Leith and Edinburgh, deplored by all the reflecting classes of the community, and severely satirized by some public writers. The ancient government of Leith was very an- omalous, inefficient, and changeful, comprising a variety of jurisdictions, separate from one another or in some degree conflicting, but all enthralled to pjdinbnrgh. In 1832, the parliamentary reform bill bestowed on Leith, within limits of perfect separation from Edinburgh, the privileges of a parliamentary burgh, empowering it, along with Portobello and Musselburgh, to send a member to parliament; in 1833, the burgh reform act further conferred upon it a separate and independent magis- tracv, consisting of a provost, four bailies, a trea- surer, and councillors ; and in 1838, the act, sepa- rating the pi operty- relations of Edinburgh from those of Leith, transferred to the provost and magistrates of Leith, and vested in them, the com- mon good of the burgh, comprising all customs, rates, imposts, and market-dues, together with the jail buildings. The amount of the corporation "revenue in "iSGfi was i'625 odds. The provost bears also the title of admiral of Leith; and the courts held by the magistrates are called the admiral and bailie courts of Leith. There is a societv of solicitors for practising in these courts. A sheVilf's small debt court is held every Tuesday in the court room. Matteis of police are managed by a commission, consisting of the provost, the bailies, the town clerk, and a superintendent. An assessment, for police purposes, not exceeding Is. 6d. per pound, is imposed on the occupiers of all houses of upwards of £3 yearly rent. The supplies of water are from the same works as Edinburgh. The constituency of the burgh in 1862, both muni- cipal and parliamentary, was 1,759. tieal property in 1862, £150,(542 Os. Population in 1841, 26,808; in 18iil, 33,(328. Houses, 2,575. On the 20th of May, 1329, the city of Edinburgh obtained from Robert I. a grant by charter of " the harbour and mills of Leith with "their appurtenan- ces, for the payment of fifty-two nierks yearly." The town-council of the city, not content with this privilege, took possession of the ground adjacent to the harbour, along the banks of the river. Toward the close of the century, Sir Robert Logan of Kes- LEITH. 317 LEITH. tfilrig, the baronial superior of the grounds, and a man of rapacious character, contested their assumed claims, and obliged them to take a concession of them from him by purchase and charter. On the 31st ]Mav, 1398, he granted them by cliarter a right to waste lands in the s'icinity of the harbour for the erection of quays and wliarfs, and a liberty to have shops and granaries on these lands, and to break the grounds of his barony with roads for the ser- vice of navigation. Sir Robert afterwards teased the town-council with points of litigation, and eventually roused them to adopt a strong measure for satiating at once his avarice and their own ambition. Bought over by them with a large sum of money, the unprincipled baron, in Februaiy 1413, granted them an extraordinary charter, " an ex- clusive, ruinous, and enslaving bond," restraining tiie inhabitants of Leith from carrying on any sort of trade, from possessing warehouses or shops, and from keeping houses of entertainment for strangers, and thus flinging the place, in the guise of a mana- cled slave, at the feet of the metropolitan purchas- ers. But the town-council of Edinburgh, not even vet content with the power accorded them over Lei til. ordained, in the j^ear 1485, that no merchant of Edinburgh should become partner in business with an inhabitant of Leith. under penalty of 40 shillings, and of a year's deprivation of the freedom of the city ; and on future occasions, they enacted tiiat no revenue of the city should be fanned by an inhabitant of Leith, or by any person in partner- sliip with a Leithian, — and that no staple goods should, e.Kcept under a severe penalty, be either sold in Leith, or deposited in any of its warehouses. Edinburgh's extraordinary rights thus acquired over Leith, were confirmed by royal charters. James I., by a charter dated 4th November, 1454, granted to Edinburgh " the haven-silver, customs, and duty of ships, vessels, and merchandize coming to the road and harbour of Leith." And James IIL, on 16th November, 1482, granted to them a charter, containing a detail of the customs, profits, exactions, commodities, and revenues of the port and road of Iieith. By a grant of James IV., dated 9th March. 1510, a right was given to the city of Edinburgh to the new port, denominated Newliaven, lately made by the said King on the sea-coast, with the lands thereunto belonging, lying between the chapel of St. Nicholas and the lands of Wardie brae, with certain faculties and privileges. By a charter bearing the same date, James IV. confirmed the charter by Logan of Kestalrig, formerly mentioned. On 8th October, 1550, Mary ratified an act and de- creet of the Lords-of-sossion against tlie inhabitants of North Leith, " adjudging the prorost and bailift's of our said town of Edinburgh to be proper judges for the said inhabitants in the petty customs of Leith. belonging to our foresaid town of Edinburgh." Tlie Queen -regent, Maiy of Lorraine, indeed, in 1555, granted the inhabitants of Leith a contract to erect the town into a burgh-of-harony, to con- tinue valid till she should erect it into a royal burgh; and as a preparatory measure, she purchased, overt- ly for their use and with money which they them- ■selves furnished, the superiority of the town from Logan of Restalrig. But she did not fulfil her en- gagements, and is generally alleged to have been bribed with 20,000 merks from tbe city of Edin- burgh to break them. Mary, her daughter, among other shifts to raise money in her difiiculties, mort- gaged, in 1565, to Edinburgh the superiority of Leith, redeemable for 1,000 merks ; she requested the town-council by letter, in 1566, to delay the assumption of the superiority ; but she obtained short indulgence, and could not prevent the conse- quences of her hasty act from falling on the de- voted town. On the 2d of July, 1567, the citizens of Edinburgh marched in military order to Leitli, went tln-ough some evolutions designed to represent a capture or conquest, and formally trampled tbe independence of the town in the dust. Many severe hnvs. in years succeeding this epocli, were enacted relative to the public and the private trade of Leith. James VI. was plied by the inhabitants with appeals and efforts designed to draw from him some deliver- ance from their thraldom ; but he accepted some private arrangement with the town-council of Edin- burgh, and placed the powers and supremacy of that body on higher vantage-ground than before. On the 25th March, 1596, he empowered, b}^ a letter of gift under the privy-seal, the corporation of Edinburgli to levy a certain tax during a certain period, towards supporting, erecting, and repairing the bulwark, pier, and port of Leith ; and on the 15th March, 1603, he, by a charter of confirmation and 1WV0 damns, confirmed all the grants which had been made to them from the commencement of their ascendency. In 1636 also, another charter of con- firmation and novo damus, rivetting firnilv on Leith all the chains of bondage which had been forged for it, was granted by Charles I. The earliest mention of Leith which has been traced occurs in the charter of the abbey of Holy- rood, founded by David I., in which it is called In- verleith. In 1313, and again in 1410, all the vessels in the harbour were burnt by the English. In 1488, it was seized by the insurgent nobles who rose against James III., and was the scene of an inter- view between James IV. and the celebrated Sir Andrew Wood, who kept the mastery of the fiith ot Forth. In 1511, either in Leith or at Newhaven, " ane varie monstrous great schip called the Mi- chael," was built, and, according to Pitscottie, re- quired such a mass of timber for her construction, " that she waisted all the woodis in Fyfe, except Falkland wood, besides the timber that came out of Norway." In 1544, the Earl of Hertford, at tlic head of 10,000 men, took possession of Leith, seized all the vessels in the harbour, left the place jn keep- ing of 1,500 soldiers till he burned Edinburgh and wasted the circumjacent country, and then, on tak- ing leave with his army and booty, committed the whole port to the flames. Three years afterwards, the same general, who had now become Duke of Somerset, and was fresh from the fatal battle of Pinkie, again set Leith on fire, though not with such an amount of injurious effect as before; and, on this occasion, carried off" 35 vessels fiom the har- bour. From 1548 to 1560, Leith, by becoming the fortified seat of the court and hend-quarters of the Queen-regent's army and of her French au.xiliaries, figured prominently in the greater part of the stir- ring events which occurred during the civil war be- tween Mary of Lorraine and the Lords of the con- gregation. Its port received the shipping and the supplies which were designed for the Queen-regent's service ; its fortifications enclosed alteraately a garrison and an army, whose accoutrements had no opportunity of becoming rusted; and its gates poured forth detachments and sallying parties, who fought many a skirmish with portions of the Pro- testant forces on the plain between Leith and Edin- burgh. In October 1559, the Lords of the congre- gation regularly invested the town with an army, and attempted to enter it by means of scaling-lad- ders ; but they could make no impression, and were eventually, and with great slaughter, driven back by a desperate sally of the besieged. In April of the next year, the forces of the congregation, now aided by an army of 6,000 men under Lord Grey ol LEITH. 318 LEITH (WATER 0F\ Wilton, despatched to their assistance by Elizabeth, ap^ain invested the town, and, on this occasion, in- flicted upon it a protracted, disastrous, and sangui- nary contest. Leith, though snft'ering dreadfully from famine, kept the besiegers, during two months, fully at bay, j'et without acquiring any advantage. Both parties being at length heartily tired of tlie contest, and willingly entering into a treaty which stipulated that the French forces in the town should leave the kingdom, and be allowed to retire un- molested, Leith was immediately dismantled and restored to tranquillity. In August, 1561, Queen Mary landed at Leith to take possession of the throne of her ancestors, and was welcomed by tlie inhabitants with great demonstrations of joy. Ko vestige now remains of the pier which received her, and which must have been constructed subsequent- ly to the destruction of the original one by the Earl of Hertford. During the niiiunity of James \I., Leith figured in various transactions which belong strictly to the general history of the kingdom. From November 1571 till August of next year, and again in 1596-7, the town was tlie seat of the High Court of Justiciary ; and in 1572, it was the meet- ing-place of a General Assembly which made some important enactments. In 1578, an act of parlia- ment was passed to prevent " the taking away great quantities of victual-flesh, from Leith, under tlie })reteuce of victualling ships." A reconciliation laving, in the same year, been effected between the Earl of Morton and the Scottish nobles opposed to him, the Earls of Morton, Arcryle, Montrose, Athole, and Buchan, Lord Boyd, and several other persons of distinction, dined togetlier in an hostelry of Leith. In 1584, the town was appointed the chief fish-market for herrings and the other produce of the Forth. On the 6th May, 1590, James VI., after lying six days in the roads, landed at the pier with his queen, Anne of Denmark. In 1610, thirty-eight English sailors were hanged within high -water mark on the sands for piracies in the Western Islands, — thirty of them in July, and eight in De- cember. In October, 1643, the Solenni League and Covenant was sworn and subscribed with great solemnity, and with many grave demonstrations of thorough zeal by the inhabitants. Four years after- wards 2,430 persons, constituting about one-half of the entire population, were, in the course of six or eight months, swept away by the plague. The churchyards being utterly deficient in accommoda- tion for their bodies, many of tliem were buried in the Links, near the site of Wellington-street, and on the north side of the road leading to Hermitage- hill. So fearful were tlie ravages of the plague and of an accompanying famine, that parliament, be- lieving the number of the dead to exceed that of the living, empowered the magistrates to seize, for the use of survivors, whatever grain they could find in warehouses and cellars, and allowed them to make pa3'ment at their leisure, and to find means of mak- ing it by appeals to the humanity of their landward countrymen. In 1650, after Cromwell's defeat of the Scottish forces at Dunbar, Lambert, his mnjor-general, while he himself proceeded to Edinburgli, took possession of Leith. A monthly assessment of about £22 sterling was now imposed on the town, and, after so very recent and terrible devastations from pestilence and famine, was felt to be a griev- ous exaction. On General Monk's appointment to be commander-in-chief, he adopted Leith as his head-quarters and his home; and, while residing in the town, he induced many English families of con- siderable wealth and of "■reat mercantile enterprise to become settlers The in-^omers gave a grand impulse to the mercantile spirit of the port, and established some manufactures. In 1691, Viscount Tarbet, afterwards second Earl of Cromarty, and two other persons, raised a tavern brawl of great notoriety in an hostelry in Kirkgate. and wcrp, con- cerned, while the brawl lasted, in the murder of a French Protestant refugee and military ofiicer. In 1705, Captain Green of the Worcester, and three of his crew, were hanged within flood-mark on the sands, for a very curiously discovered piracy and murder, committed in 1703 on the crew of a Scottish vessel oft' the coast of Malabar. During the rebel- lion of 1715, Brigadier Macintosh of Borlam., and n party of Highlanders who followed his bannei, briefly occupied the citadel, and, being menaced by the Duke of Argyle who was at the time in Edin- burgli, hastily plundered the custom-house, flung open the doors of the prison, and made a night re- treat over the sands at low water. In 1778 the revolted Seaforth regiment of Highlanders [see Edinburgh], made Leith the scene of some of their movements. Next year, 50 Highlanders, who had been recruited for the 42d and 71st regiments, mutinied at Leith, whither they were brought for embarkation, and firmly refused to go on board the transports. A party of fencibles having been sent from Edinburgh-castle to appreher.d them, a con- flict occurred on the quay, which was fatal to two of the fencibles and twelve of the Highlanders, as well as severely damaging to many more. In 1779, the noted Paul Jones appeared in the frith, and strack such a panic into the inhabitants that a battery, the embryo of the present fort, was hastily constructed to dispute his entering the harbour; but he was driven away by a storm, and provi- dentially hindered fi-om inflicting damage on the town. In 1822, Leith had all the eclat of being the scene of George IV. 's arrival to visit his Scottish metropolis; and in 1842, it was visited by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. LEITH (Wateu of), a small river of Edinburgh shire, entering the frith of I'orth at Leith harbour. It rises at the south-east extremity of the parish of I\Iid-Calder. from three springs, at a place called Leith-head, within a mile of one of the sources of a tributary of the Tweed. It runs 3 miles northward through Mid-Calder; 3 miles between Kirknewton on its left bank, and Mid-Calder and Currie on it" right; 4f miles through Currie, receiving on the liglit the waters of Bevilawburn; 2h miles through Colinton ; 1 mile circuitously, partly across a tiny wing of Colinton, and partly between that parish and Corstorphine on its left bank, and St. Cuthbert's on its right ; 4 miles through St. Cuthbert's ; and f of a mile between North and South Leith. Its general direction, after leaving Mid-Calder, is north- east ; and its entire length of course in a straight line is about 19 miles, and including windings about 25 or 26. During a drought, or even in weather but moderately dry, the Water of Leith is a trivial stream, not greater than many a short -coursed brook ; but, in a season of rain, it becomes swollen and impetuous, and combines the chai-acteristics of a river and a mountain torrent. It, in general, has a large share of the picturesqueness and romance which distinguish so many of the rivers of Scotland. At one time it runs along deep narrow glens, amid rocks and hanging woods ; and at another it glides among beautiful liaughs, fertile in corn and grass. On its banks are extensive plantations, many ele- gant mansions, several fine rural villages, one of the most superb suburban districts of Edinburgh, and the most densely peopled portion of the town of Leith. Its bed through the suburbs of Edinburgh, and thence toward Leith, was formerly, in dry LEITH (WATER OF). ;i9 LENNOX. weather, little better than a large, open, common- sewer; but, by means of skilful artificial improve- ment, this nuisance has recently been, in a great degree, abated. The Water of Leith is probably the most useful stream of its size in Scotland ; for even a good number of years ago, it drove, in the course of 10 miles, 14 corn-mills, 12 barley-mills, 24 flour-mills, 7 saw-mills, 5 fulling-mills, 5 snuff- mills, 4 paper-mills, 2 lint-mills, and 2 leather-mills, — the rent of some of which, in tlie vicinity of the metropolis, was then upwards of £20 sterling per foot of waterfall. LEITH (Water op), an old large village, now a suburb of Edinburgh. It stands on the water of Leith stream, on the old road by the Dean from Edinburgh to Queensferry, and immediately above the stupendous Dean-bridge which carries along the new road. Its site is partly the bottom of a ravine, and partly rapid slopes descending thither. The village is irregularlj- built, and has an appear- ance which contrasts very disadvantacjeously with the superb urban arcliitecture in its vicinity; but it contains some extensive flour-mills and granaries, and would look well enough in another situation. The upper end of its west side is nearh' adjacent to tlie village of Dean and the Dean cemetery. Popu- lation, 1,024. LEITHEN (The), a rivulet of Peebles- shire, rising in the extreme north-west angle of the parish of Innerleithen, and falling into the Tweed a mile after passing Innerleithen church. See In>'er- LEITHEN. LEITH-HEAD. See Leith (Water of). LEITH-LUMSDEX, a post-oihce village in the parish of Auchindoir, Aberdeenshii'e. It stands in the upper part of Strathbogie, 12 miles south by west of Huntly. It is of modern origin, and con- tains a few traders and handicraftsmen. Here is an United Presbyterian church, which was built in 1803, and contains 203 sittings. Population, 478. LEITHOLM, a post-office village in the parish of Eccles, Berwickshire. It stands on the north road from Kelso to Berwick, 5^ miles east by south of Greenlaw, and 7^ north-north-east of Kelso. Here is an United Presbyterian church ; and here anciently was a Eoman Catholic chapel, the site of which still bears the name of Chapelknowe. Popu- lation, 305. LEMXO. See Aberlemxo. LEMPITLAVV, a village in the parisli of Sprous- ton, Eoxburghshire. It stands on the south-east border of the parish, 4 miles east-south-east of Kelso. It consists of cottages and three small farm-steads. Population, 119. Houses, 28. An elevated ground extending along the southern extremity of the parish of Sprouston, also bears the name of Lempitlaw, and probably gave that naine to the village. There was likewise an ancient parish of Lempitlaw, which is now annexed to Sprouston. LENDAL-BURN. See Girvax. LENEY. S-e Lext. LENXEL, the ancient name of the parish of Coldstream, also an existing village in that parish, Berwickshire. See CoLDSTREAjr. The ancient vil- lage, or kirktown, stood on the steep bank of the Tweed, a mile below Coldstream, and was destroyed by predatory incursion during the Border wars. The ruins of the church still exist; but great part cf the cemetery has heen swept away by the Tweed. The modern village bears the name of New Lennel, and is inconsiderable in size. The mansion-house of Lennel is in the vicinity. LEXXOCK (The), a small stream tiibutary to the Lossie. in the parish of Biinie, Morayshire. LEXXOX, the ancient county of Dumbarton, comprehending the whole of the modem county of Dumbarton, a large part of Stirlingshire, and part of the counties of Perth and Renfrew. The original name was Leven-ach, 'the field of the Leven,' and very appropriately designated the basin, not only o( the river Leven, but also of Loch-Lomond, anciently called Loch-Leven. Levenachs, in the pluial num"- ber, came to be the name of all the extensive and coiitiguous possessions of the powerful Earls of the soil; and, being spelt and written Levenax, was easily and naturally corrupted into Lennox. In the 13th century, Lennox and the sheriffdom cf Dum- barton appear to have been co-extensive; but after- wards, in consequence of great alterations and con- siderable curtailments upon the sheriffdom, they ceased to be identical. The origin of the earldom of Lennox is obscure. Arkil, a Saxon, and a baron of Xorthumbria, who took refuge from the vengeance of the X"onnan William, under the protection of Malcolm Canmore, appears to have been the founder of the original Lennox family. His son Alwyn seems to have been the first Earl. But dying, when his son and heir was a m'nor, early in the reign of William the Lion, David, Earl of Huntingdon, received from the King the earldom in ward, and appears to have held it during a considerable period. Alwyn, the second Earl, recovered possession some time before 1199. Maldwen, the third Earl, obtained from Alexander II., in 1238, a confirmatory charter of the earldom as held by his father; but was not allowed the castle of Dumbarton, nor the lands, port, and fish- eries of Murrach. In 1284, Earl Malcolm concurred with tlie 'Magnates Scotiie,' in swearing to acknow- ledge Margaret of Norway as heir-apparent to Alex- ander III.'s throne ; and, in 1290, he appeared in the assembly of the states at Birgham, and con- sented to the marriage of Margaret with the son of Edward I. Next year, when Margaret's death opened the competition for the Crown, Malcolm was one of the nominees of Robert Bruce ; and resistance to England becoming necessary, he, in 1296, as- sembled his followers, and, with other Scottish leaders, invaded Cumberland and assaulted Carlisle. While Sir John Menteith, the inglorious betrayer of the patriot Wallace, prostituted his power as gov ernor of Dumbarton-castle, and sheriff of Dumbar- tonshire, in favour of Edward I., Malcolm went boldly out, and achieved feats as a supporter of Robei't Bruce; and he continued, after Bi-uce's death, to maintain the independence of the kingdom, till, in 1333, he fell with hoary locks, but fighting like a youthful wamor, at Halidon-hill. In 1424, after the restoration of James I., Earl Duncan became involved in the fate of his son-in- law, Murdoch, Duke of Albany, tiie Regent; and for some real or merely imputed crime, which no known history specifies, he was, in May next year, along with the Duke and two of the Duke's sons, beheaded at Stirling. Though Duncan left, by his second marriage, a legitimate son, called Donald of Lennox; yet his daughter Isabella, Duchess of Al- bany, while obtaining no regular entry to the earl- dom as heiress, appears to have enjoyed it during the reign of James II.; and she resided in the castle of Inchmurrin in Loch-Lomond, the chief messuage of the earldom, and there granted charters to vassals, as Countess of Lennox, and made gifts of portions of the property to religious establishments. After this lady's death in 1459, a long contest took place for the earldom between the heirs of her sisters, Elizabeth and Margaret, the second and tliird daughters of Duncan, whose priority of age was not ascertained by evidence, or admitted of keen and plausible dispute. The vast landed property of LENNOX. 320 LENNOX. Lennox was dismembered between the disputants; but tlie honours, the superiority, and the principal messuage of the earldom — the grand object of dis- pute — could be awarded to only one party, and were not finally adjudgea till 1493. Sir John Stewart of Darnley had married Elizabeth; and their grandson, besides" being declared heir to half the Lennox estate, became Lord Darnley and Earl of Lennox. Sir Rotjert Menteith of Rusky had married Margaret; and their moiety of the Lennox estate, came, with the estate of Rusky, to be divided, in the persons of their great-granddaughters, the co-heiresses, be- tween Sir John Haldane of Gleneagles, who had married the elder, and Sir John Napier of Merchies ■ ton, who had married the younger. In 1471, the earldom being in the King's hands by the non-entiy of any heir, was given, daring his life, to Andrew, Lord Avondale, the chancellor. After the fall of James IlL, John Lord Darnley appears to have been awarded the Lennox honours by the new gov- ernment ; and, in 1488, he sat as Earl of Lennox in the first parliament, and received for himself and his son Matthew Stewart, the ward and revenues of Dumbarton-castle, which had been held by Lord Avondale. But only next year he took arms against the young King, drew besieging forces upon his fortresses both of Crookslon and Dumbarton, suf- fered a defeat or rather a night surprise and rout at Tilly-moss, on the south side of the Forth above Stirling, saw the castle of Dumbarton, which was maintained by four of his sons, yield to a vigorous siege of six weeks, headed by the King and tlie ministers of state, and, after all, succeeded in making his peace with government, and obtaining a full pardon for himself and his followers. Matthew, the next Earl, whose accession took place in J494, led the men of Lennox to the fatal field of Flodden, where he and the Earl of Argyle commanded the right wing of the Scottish army, and, with many of their followers, were hewn down amid vain efforts of valour. John, the son and suc- cessor of Matthew, played an active part during the turbulent minority of James V. In 1514, he, along with the Earl of Glencairn, assailed the castle of Dumbarton during a tempestuous night, and, break- ing open the lower gate, succeeded in taking it; in 1516, he was imprisoned by the Regent Albany, to compel him to surrender the fortress as the key of the Avest, and was obliged to comply; and, in 1526, he assembled a force of 10,000 men, and marched toward Edinburgh to the rescue of the young King from the power of the Douglases. Matthew, the next Earl, a very conspicuous figurant in history, obtained, in 1531, for 19 years, the tenure of the governorship and revenues of Dumbarton-castle. Early in the reign of Mary, some French ships ar- riving in the Clyde with supplies for the Queen, he, by artful persuasion, got the captains to land 30,000 crowns of silver and a quantity of arms and ammu- nition in the castle; and he immediately joined with other malcontents in an abortive but pardoned at- tempt to overthrow the government. In May and June 1544, he secretly entered the service of Henry VIII., engaging every effort to seize and deliver to England the Scottish Queen, the isle of Bute, and the castle and territories of Dumbarton, and obtain- ing from the King the Lady Margaret Douglas in marriage, and lands in England to the annual value of 6,800 marks Scots. Sent soon afterwards to the Clyde with 18 English ships and 600 soldiers, he was civilly received by George Stirling of Glorat, whom he had left in charge of Dumbarton-castle as his deputy; but he no sooner hinted to that ofiicial his design, and offered him a pension from Henry, than he and his Englishmen were turned out of the fortress and compelled to return to their ships. 'J'lie Earl and his party now ravaged and wasted, with fire and sword, tlie islands of Arran and Bute, and other places in the west; and in October, 1545, he was declared by parliament to have incurred forfeit- ure. He continued an active partizan in the hostili- ties against Scotland of Henry VIII. and his suc- cessor, received from the former a grant of the manor of Temple-Newsom in Yorkshire, and during 20 years remained in England an exile from his native land. Father of the ill-fated Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, and grandfather of James VI., he eventually rose in the revolving politics of the period to the uppermost side of the wheel, and for a period filled the oflice of Regent, and vice-regally swayed the sceptre of his grandson. Holding at Stirling-castle, in September 1571, what the opposite party in politics called ' the black parliament,' he was mortally wounded in an attack made upon the town by a small force who designed to take the for- tress by suiprise. The earldom of Lennox now devolved on James VI. as the next heir; and in April, 1572, it and the lordship of Darnley, with the whole of the family property and heritable jurisdictions, were given to Lord Charles Stewart, the King's uncle, and Lord Darnley's younger brother. But he dying in 1576 without male issue, they again devolved to the King, and were given, in 1578, to the King's grand-uncle. Lord Robert Stewart, bishop of Caithness, — resigned by him in 1579, in exchange for the earldom of I\iarch, — and given, in 1579-80, to Esme Stewart, Lord D'Aubigny. In August, 1581, Esme, this last favourite among the royal kinsmen, and the holde: of the oflice of chamberlain of Scotland, was laised to the dignity of the Duke of Lennox and Earl ot Darnley ; and his son Ludovic, the second Duke, received from the King additional ottices and grants of property, and, among otiier preferments, Avas made custodier of Dumbarton -castle, and the owner of its pertinents and revenues. In 1672, Charles the sixth Duke, dying without issue, the peerage, with all its accumulated honours and possessions, went oni e more to the Crown, devolving on Charles XL, as the nearest collateral heir-male; and the revenues of the estates were settled for life on the dowager Duchess. In 1680, Charles II. granted to his illegitimate son, Charles, born of Louise Rene'e de Penancoet de Keranalle, Duchess of Portsmouth, and D'Aubigny, the dukedom of Lennox and earl- dom of Darnley in Scotland, and the dukedom of Richmond and earldom of March in the peerage of England. After the death of the dowager Duchess in 1702, the Duke of Richmond and Lennox sold the whole of his property in Scotland, the Marquis of Montrose purchasing most of it, as well as many of its jurisdictions. In 1836, Charles, fifth Duke of Richmond and Lennox, succeeded to the Gordon estates. In the reign of James IV. the sheriifdom of Dum- bartonshire was made hereditary in the family of Lennox, Earl Matthew obtaining, in 1503, a grant which united the office to the earldom. The ofiice continued a pertinent of the Earls and Dukes foi' two centuries, and was usually executed by deputy- sheriffs of their appointment. 'J'he i\larquis of Montrose, who was created Duke in 1707, pur- chased at once the sheriffdom of the county, the custodiership of Dumbarton castle, and the juris- diction of the regality of Lennox, along with the large part of the Lennox property bought from the first Duke of Richmond and Lennox. The Earls and Dukes of Lennox had a very ample jurisdiction over all their estates, both in and beyond Dumbar- tonshire, comprehended in the regality of Lennox : LENNOX-HILLS. 321 LEOCHEL-CUSHNIE. anrl their vassals also had powers of jurisdiction within the lands held hv them, suhject to tiie re- markable condition that all the criminals condemned in their court should be executed on the Earl's gal- lows. At the abolition of heritable juiisdictions in 1748, the Duke of Montrose claimed for the regalitv of Lennox £4,000, but was allowed only £578 18s. 4d. LENNOX-CASTLE. See CiJiPSiE and Lexnox- TOWN'. LENNOX-HILLS, a range of heights extending east-north-eastward from Dumbarton to Stirling, along the middle of tlie ancient district of Lennox. The range is intenupted by the valley of the Blane, and, from Dumbarton thither, is called the Kilpa- trick hills. The name Lennox-hills is more strictly applied to the heights between the valley of the Blane and Stirling, which, in their various parts are called the Killearn, the Campsie, the Kilsyth, the DundafF, the Fintry, and the Gargnnnock hills. A continuation of the range commencing immediately north of the Forth, passes on, under the name of the Ochil-hills, to the vicinity of the Tay. Through- out the whole of the strictly Lennox-hills, and in a less degree in the Kilpatrick-hills, are grand colon- nades and precipices of basalt. In the parishes of Killearn, Stratiiblane, and Fintry, in particular, the arrays of basaltic columns are magnificent. The lulls are composed chiefly of various kinds of trap, and offer many features of interest to the mineralo- gist ; nor do they less challenge the attention of the agriculturist and the grazier. In the DundafT sec- tion, indeed, a stunted heath occupies a considerable space, though not to the exclus'on of excellent pis- turage; but everywhere else, the hills, with very trivial exceptions, are carpeted with fine grass, un- surpassed for pasturage in Scotland. The summits rise in Campsie to the height of 1,500 feet, and in Kilsyth to the height of 1,300 ; but in many places they ascend no higher th;in to be inconsiderable hills. See article Campsie- Fells. LENNOX-LOVE. See H.^ddington and Had- DINfJTOXSHlRE. LENNOX- TOWER. See Cdphje and Edin- BUROHSIIIHE. LENNOXTOWN, a small post-town in the parish of Campsie, Stirlingshire. It stands on Glazert water, at the terminus of the Campsie branch of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, about a mile from the south base of the Campsie fells, 8f miles north-north-west of Kirkintillcch, 6J west of Kil- syth, and 9 by road, but llf by railway, north by east of Glasgow. It stands on the grounds, and is under the superiority, of Lennox of Woodhead. who claims to be the direct descendant, and nearest heir in the male line, of the oiiginal noble family of Lennox. A mile west of it, on a conspicuous site, stands that gentleman's, seat of Lennox-castle, one of the most spacious and superb mansions in Scot- land. The town contains some of the manufactur- ing establishments of the parish, and is the centre of traffic for them all. The Campsie alum-work is at the east end of it; contributing, in its group of tall brick chimney stacks, and in its great red mounds of burnt alum schist, a grotesque feature to tiie surrounding landscape. The town contains the parish church, an United Presbyterian church, a Roman Catholic chapel, a mechanics' institute, and a savings' bank. Several trains run daily to Glas- o-ow, and a coach to Balfron. Sheriff small debt courts are held on the fourth Thursday of the months of February, Mav, August, and November. Population in 1841," 2,821; in 1861, 3,209. Houses, 248. See Campsie. LENTRAM. See Kirkiiill. LENTRATHEN. See Lintrathen. TI. LENTRON. See Highlands (The). LENTURK. See Leochel-Cushnie. LENY (The Pass of), a romantic mountain- gorge, in the parish of Callendar, Perthshire. Its bottom is partly occupied by Loch-Lubnaig, and partly traveised by the impetuous stream which rushes thence as a head-water of the Teith. The gorge commences 2 miles north-west of the village of Callendar, and carries up a road, now much fre- quented by tourists, to Balquhidder and Loch-Earn- head. It is described as follows by Sir Walter Scott, in the opening scene of the Legend of Mon- trose: " Their course had been, for some time, along the banks of a lake, whose deep waters reflected the crimson beams of the western sun. The broken path, whicli they pursued with some difficulty, was in some places shaded by ancient birches and oak- trees, and in others overhung by fragments of huge rock. Elsewhere the hill which formed the northern side of this beautiful sheet of water, arose in steep but less precipitous acclivity, and was arrayed in heath of the darkest purple." Its beauties have also been immortalized in the poem of ' The Lady of the Lake.' LENY-HILL, a low hill, of trap-rock formation, on the west side of the parish of Cramond, Edin- burghshire. LENZIE. See Kirkintilloch and Cumbku- NAULn. LEOCHDAN. See Glapsaky. LEOCHEL (The), an affluent of the river Don, in Aberdeenshire. It rises in a cleft of the bill of Cushnie, at t!ie south-west angle of the parish of Leochel-Cnslmie, runs 3 miles eastward through that parish, 3 miles northward partly through the same parish, and partly on its boundary, then 4 miles north-westward and northward, through the parish of Alford, to the Don. LEOCHEL-CUSHNIE, an united parish in the Alford district of Aberdeenshire. Its post-town is Alford, 6 miles to the north ; but other post-office stations equally accessible are Whitehouse on the east, and Tarfand on the south. The parish is bounded by Kildrummie. Alford, Tough, Lum- phanan, Coull, Tarland, and Towie. Its length east- ward is aliout 6 miles; and its breadth is from 3 to 6 miles. Soccoch, or the Hill of Cushnie, rises on the western boundary to an altitude of about 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, and commands a very brilliant panoramic prospect. Four mountain- ous" ridges extend from the base of Soccoch east- ward, through the whole length of the parish, and are separated from one another by valleys, each of which is watered by a brook of its own. The crests of the ridges are barren ; but the slopes of the hills and the bottoms of the valleys are cultivated. The lowest parts of the valleys have an elevation of about 500 feet above the level of the sea; and the highest parts of the cultivated acclivities hare an elevation of about 500 feet above the bed of the streams. The predominant rock is granite. Tiie soil in general is clayey; in some parts, on the hill slopes, a rich loam ; and, in some of the lower parts of the valleys, a fine alluvium. The principal stream is th'e Leochel, and most of the others are tributaries to it. All are liable to sudden freshets, and have at times done great damage to the haugh lands along their banks. About 5,455 imperial acres are in tillage; about 963 are in green pasture; about 3,790 are inoorish or waste ; and about 1.000 arc under wood. Upwards of one-half of the parish belongs to Sir William Forbes of Cragievar, Bart.; and the rest belongs principally to Lumsden of Cushnie. MCombie of Eenturk," and Ferguson of Hallhead. The yearly value of raw produce was X LEOGH. 322 LERWICK. estimated in 1843 at £12,000. Assessed property in 18G0, £4,919. Tiie most conspicuous edifice is Craigievar-castle. See Craigievar. The mansion of Cushnie was built in 1707; and that of Hallhead, in 1G88. The castle of Corse was built in 1D81. but has lonf^ been a ruin. There was formerly a castle of Lenturk ; but its site is now occupied by a farm- house. There were formerly numerous cairns; but only one of them, a large one, now remains. Seve- ral Picts houses occur on the farm of Cairncoullie. Some military entrenchments, which tradition asso- ciates with tiie closing scones in the career of Mac- beth, occur on the hill of Corse. Sec Corse. The principal manufactures are the making of some woollen goods at a small carding-mill, and the knit- ting of worsted stockings. The parish is traversed by the government road from Donside to Deeside. Population in 1831, 1,077; in 18iJl, 1,173. Houses, 212. This parish is in the presbytery of Alford, and synod of Aberdeen. Patrons, Sir William Forbes, Bart., and Lumsden of Cushnie. Stipend, £1 9G 10s. 5d.; glebe, £18. The parish church was built in 1798, and contains 500 sittings. There is a Free church preaching station of Leochel-Cushnie ; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865, jointly with another station in the conterminous parish of Towie, was £76 Is. Tiicre is an United Presby- terian church on the eastern border of Leochel- Cushnie, which is usually designated as if it were within Tough. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with £49 4s. 4.^d. for retired schoolmaster, together with a share of the Dick bequest, and about £12 or £15 fees. " There are three other schools, one of them supported by the General As- sembly, and the other two endowed. There are two small parochial libraries. The present parish of Leochel-Cushnie comprehends the ancient parish of Leochel, the ancient parish of Cushnie, and quoad sacra the lands of Corse, which belong quoad civilia to the parish of CouU. Tlie parishes of Leochel and Cushnie were united temporarily in 1618, and permanently in 1795. The ancient church of Leochel was dedicated to St. Marnan, and that of Cushnie to St. Bride. Portions of the walls of both are still standing. There were anciently chapels at Lenturk, at Corbanchory, and at Newton of Corse. Among distinguished natives of the parish may be mentioned Patrick Forbes, who was bishop of Aberdeen, several other members of the Forbes family, who were celebrated in various ways, An- drew L'ving of Lenturk, who was an eminent lawyer and law writer of the 17th century, Andrew Lumsden, who was private secretary to Piince Charles Edward, and author of a work on the anti- quities of Rome, and Dr. Matthew Lumsden, a famous oriental scholar, who died in 1835. LEOGH, a hamlet on Fair-Isle between Orkney and Shetland. LEONARDS (St.). See Andrews (St.), Lanakk, Lauder, and Edinburgh. LERWICK, a parish, containing a post-town of its own name, in the mainland of Slietland. It is bounded on the north by Tingwall; on the east by the sea; and on the south by Cnnningsburgh. Its length southward is about 6 miles ; but its breadth is nowhere more than one mile. The portion of the sea washing the greater part of its coast is Bressay sound, comprising the harbour of Lerwick, and one of the finest anchoring grounds in the kingdom. See Bressav. The interior of the parish is predom- inantly rocky and hilly, yet does not anywhere rise to a higher altitude than about 300 feet above the level of the sea. Peat or moss generally covers the hills, and is deep to their very summit. The arable land consists of patches on the sea-board, and has a light, sandy, fertile soil. The principal landowners are Sir Arthur Nicolson, Bart., the Earl of Zetland. Hay of Laxfirth, Greig of Sandsound, Ogilvie of Seafield, and Heddle of Helerness. Sir A. Nicolson is the most extensive of the landowners, and has a mansion at Gremista. There are several fine villas in the neighbourhood of the town. There are re- mains of a Pictish castle on an islet in a lake adja- cent to the town. There lately were remains ot several chapels at Gulberwick. The predominant rocks are the old red sandstone and its conglomerate. The sandstone is quarried. The real rental in 1841 was £4,200. Population in 1831, 3,194; in 1861, 3,631. Houses, 438. This parish is the seat of a presl)ytery in the synod of Shetland. Patron, Earl of Zetland. Stipend, £158 OS. 9Jd., with £50 in lieu of manse and glebe. Sehoolmas'ter's salary is now £40, with aboni: £34 fees. The places of worship are the parish church, the Free church, an United Presbyterian church, an Independent chapel, and a Methodist chapel. There are four non-parochial schools. The Town of Lerwick is situated about the mid- dle of the coast of Bressay sound, 21 miles north by east of Sumburgh-head. It is the capital of Slier- land, and the seat of the custom-house for all the Shetland isles. It derives consequence from being the focus of trade for Shetland, the seat of the courts of law, the resort of whaling ships on their way to Greenland, the rendezvous of busses employed in the herring fishery, and the residence of a consider- able number of respectable families. It consists of one principal street ranged along the shore, and of several lanes branching off". The principal street is exceedingly irregular, having been formed with an utter disregard of every convenience, except that oi being as near as possible to the shore. Its houses individually are good structures, mostly two or three stories high, and roofed with a blue, rough, schistose sandstone; but they stand in every imaginable kind of dislocation from one another, and some of them projecting almost quite across the street. The Messrs. Anderson remark, in reference to them, — '"The salient and re-entering angles of fortification may be studied by observing the liouses in Lerwick ; or, in the more peaceful thoughts of Gray's descrip- tion of Kendal, we may say — 'They seem as if they had been dancing a country dance, and were out. There they stand back to back, corner to corner, some up-hill, some down.' " The street is laid with flags, but knows nothing of cart or carriage, and is seldom trodden by anything heavier than a shelty laden with turf. The number of shops is compara- tively large; and the bustle of traffic is sometimes great. The only public building, except the churches and the schools, is one which serves the various purposes of town-house, court-house, prison, and masonic lodge. The town was founded about the beginning of the 17th century, but has a nnuh older appearance than many towns of thrice its age ; yet it has, of late years, been much modernized and smartened ; and, at the same time, its environs have been reclaimed from a dull waste condition to a state of pleasantness and beauty. The principal manufactures are the making of herring nets and the knitting of articles of liosiery. The fishery district of Lerwick comprehends eleven creeks; and, in the year 1854, the number of her- ring-boats employed in it was 665, — the number of barrels of herring cured, 9,009, — the number of per- sons employed in its fisheries, 4,268, — and the value of boats, nets, and lines employed in its fisheries, £15,305. In 1861, the number of sailing vessels registered at the port of Lerwick was 74, with au LESLIE. 523 LESLIE. ag;greo:ate tonnage of 2,722. The trade of tlie port ill 1860 comprised a tonnage of (!39 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 1,400 inwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, 23,885 inwards in the coasting trade in Brit- ish vessels, 81 inwards in the coasting trade in foreign vessels, 1,407 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in British vessels, 1,412 outwards in the foreign and colonial trade in foreign vessels, and 21,846 out- wards in the coasting trade in British vessels. Tnc customs revenue, in the average of 1845-1849 was £333; and in 1864, £86. A steamer communicates weekly with Kirkwall, Aberdeen, and Leith. The slieriff, commissary, and admiralty courts for Shet- land are held at Lerwick on every Tiuirsday during session. A justice of peace small debt court is held on the first Tuesday of May, and on the first Wed- nesday of every other month. The town is a burgh of barony. Population in 1831, 2,750; in 1861, 3,061. Houses, 342. LESLIE, a parish, containing a small post-town of its own name, at the middle of the western border of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the county of Kin- ross, and by the parishes of Falkland, Markinch, and Kinglassie. Its length eastward is between 4 and 5 miles; and its breadth is between 3 and 4 miles. The river Leven traces all the southern boundary; and two brooks drain the interior, the one southward and the other eastward to the Leven, a short way below Leslie-house. The north-western and the northern borders are on the declivities of the Lomond hills; the surface thence to the Leven is generally an undulating descent; and the whole landscape is pleasingly diversified and very beauti- ful. About 4,324 imperial acres are in tillage; about 992 are pastoral or uncultivated ; and about 350 are under wood. Coal occurs in the eastern district, but is not extensively worked. Limestone also occurs there, and is quarried. Trap, of a very hard kind, abounds in the west and north, and has been quarried to a considerable extent for building. The principal landowners are the Earl of Rothes, Douglas of Strathendry, and Balfour of Balbirnie. Leslie-liouse, the seat of the Earl of Rothes, stands amid magnificently wooded grounds, in the south- east of the parish. This house was built, and great additions made to the plantations, by the celebrated Duke of Rothes, Lord-chancellor of Scotland during the reign of Charles IL It originally f(n-med a quadrangle, enclosing in the centre an extensive court-yard, but three of the sides were burnt down in December 1763. The fourth side was repaired, and forms the present house. The picture-gallery in this part of the building, which is hung with portraits of connections of the family, is three feet longer than the gallery at Holyroodhouse. Stratli- endry-house is a handsome edifice in the Elizabethan style. The ja^arly value of raw produce was esti- mated in 1836 at £7,750. Assessed property in 1865, £14.386 18s. 2d. There are in the parish six mills for spinning fhix; the largest of them at Prin- laws, moved partly by steam-power, and partly by the water-powei- of the Leven. There are also three bleachfields, and a paper-mill. And nearly 300 per- sons are employed in hand-loom weaving, chiefly for the manufacturers of Glasgow. Population iii 1831, 3,749; in 1861, 4,332. Houses, 540. This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Rothes. Stipend, £257 8s. 6d.; glebe, £18. Schoolmaster's salary is £65, with about £18 fees, and £7 other emolu- ments. 'J'he parish church was built in 1820, and is a handsome structure, containing 850 sittings. There is a Free church, with an .attendance of about 390; and the amount of its receipts in 1855 was £201 10s. 7d. Tiiere are two United Presby- terian churches; the First, with an attendance oi about 330,— and the West, with an attendance of about 400. There is also a small Baptist place of worship. There are five non-parochial schools, a circulating library, and a total abstinence society. The parish took its name of Leslie from the family name of the Earls of Rothes; but it was previously called Fetkill. 'I'he celebrated Dr. Pitcairn was "a native of it. The Rev. E. Erskine, one of the fathers of the Secession church, was for some time tutor or chaplain at Leslie-house. Lord Reston, one of the senators of the college of justice, belonged to the famil}'- of the Douglases of Strathendry. The Town of Leslie stands on the south-east border of the parish of Leslie, on the road from Markinch to Kinross, and on one from Cupar to Dunfermline, 3 miles west of Markinch, 9 north by west of Kirkcaldy, and 12 south-west of Cupar. Its site is a ridge or small tableau of sand and gravel, adjacent to the Leven, and rising about 100 feet above that stream's level. At the east end of it is a fine triangular common called the Green; and thci'e also are the plantations of Leslie-house plea- sure-grounds. The town is ancient and irregularly built; and the gables of many of its houses are towai'd the street. Its records extend back about 300 years, but do not contain anything remarkable. It contests with various places the claim of being the locality of King James' poem of Christ's Kirk on the Green ; and is supposed to have been anciently a periodical scene of royal and noble games, a place of pastimes much frequented by the princes and nobles of Scotland. Packmen always in great numbms attended such assemblies; and packmen on horseback kept up the relics of the ancient games on the Green till quite recent times. A so- ciety of packmen also treated Leslie as their head- quarters, and held here their annual meeting. The town is a burgh of barony under the Earl of Rothes. It is governed by two bailies and sixteen councillois, and is a station of the county police. Fairs are held on the first Thursday of April, old style, and on the 10th day of October. Population in 1841, 1,207 ; in 1861, 2,264. Houses, 318. LESLIE, a parish, containing a post-office station of its own name, in the Garioch district of Aber- deenshire. It is bounded by Kinnethmont, Inscli, Bremnay, Keig, Tullynessle, and Clatt. Its greatest length southward is about 3 j miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 27} miles. A ridge of hills, part of the range extending westwai'd from Benochie to Cabrach, lifts its watershed along the southern boundary. An elevated ground, rising in some parts into hills, and extending from east to west, divides the rest of the parish into two nearly equal parts. Round the base of this elevated ground, north, east, south, and west, lie the arable grounds of the parish; and the parts of these on the south, intervening ijetween the central elevated ground, and the south- ern ridg(! of hills, form part of the valley of the- Gadie, whose beauties have been celebrated in song. See Gadie (The). Serpentine, of a greenish tinge, variegated with grey streaks, abounds in the south- ern district, and has been extensively used by the country people lor making snuff-boxes and trinkets. Steatite, manganese, abestus, schorl, albite, and beryl, as well as more common minerals, also are found. About 2,000 acres are in tillage. About two-thirds of the land belong to Hay of Rannes; and the other third belongs to Leith of Whitehall. The estimated value of raw produce in 1842 was £7,070. Assessed property in 1860, £2,693. Leslie- house, formerly the seat of the barons c^' Leslie, and afterwards the residence of the Forbeses of Monv. LESMAHAGO. 324 LESMAHAGO, tnusk, is a ruinous castellated in.iiisinii, built about the middle of the 17th century. Tlic remains of a Druidical tenijjle were removed a few years aC,. This parish is in the presbytery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The charge is colle- giate. The Duke of Hamilton is patron of both charges. Each of the ministers has a stipend of £324 8s. 2 Jd. ; and the first has a glebe worth £40 a-year, — the second, a garden worth £5. Unappro- priated teinds, £999 3s. 3d. The parish church is situated at Abbeygreen, and was built in 1804, and contains 1,500 sittings. There is a Free church with an attendance of from 800 to 1,000; and the sum raised in connexion with it, in 1865, was £382 19s. 9d. Tliere are two United Presbyterian churches, the one bearing the designation of J^cs- inahago, the other at the village of Crossl'oid. 'i'here is also a llefonned Presbyterian church. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is now £52 10s. with about £45 fees, and £22 other emoluments. A few other schools receive some small assistance from the heritors. There is a subscription school for girls at Abbeygreen. There is also a subscri])- tion librar}'. — The ancient parish church was dedi- cated to a Saint Machute or Mahngo, who is said tiberton, part of the village of New Craighall, the hamlets of Burdiehouse and Nether-Liberton, and about fifteen other hamlets. It is bounded by the parishes of St. Cuthberfs, Duddingstone, InveVesk, Newton, Dalkeith, Lasswade, and Colinton. Its length north-eastward is nearly 7 miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 4 miles ; but its north- eastern extremity, to tiie extent of about 2 miles, has an average breadth of considerably less than 1 mile. It is one of the richest and most beautiful parishes in the Lothians. Its surface is exquisitely diversi- fied, with low broad ridges, gentle rising grounds, undulating swells, and intcu'inediate plains, nowhere attaining sufficient elevation to be called a hill, nor anywhere subsiding long from the constant and ever-varying curve of beauty. The Braid hills and the Blackford hills send down their cultivated eastern slopes within the western limits. Numerous van- tage-grounds command splendid views of the profile of Edinburgh, the basin of the Forth, and the distant bills of Fifeshire and tlie Ochils. Two brooks, Burdiehouse-burn and the Braid-burn, run nortli- eastward through the interior, and drive a number of mills. The soil, in some parts, is a wet clay or a dry gravel, but, in general, is a very fertile loam. Hardly an acre of waste ground exists; and where the soil continues to be inferior, skill and labour arc rapidly enriching it. Nearly six-seventiis of the wliole area are constantly subjected to tlic plough, and the rest is disposed in gardens, slirubberies, wood, and grass. Mines of great value, of various produce, and of considerable antiquity, exist at (xjLMEUTOx and Burdiehouse: See these articles. Quarries of prime sandstone for building exist at Straiton, Craigmillar, and Niddry. The yearly value of raw produce, including minerals, was cstiniatcd in 1839 at £56,181. Assessed property in 1860, £26,242 Gilds. Tliere are fourteen jnincipal land- owners. At St. Catherine's, a mile south of Kirk- Liberton village, is a bituminous spring, anciently called the Balm well, which partly holds mineral oil or petroleum in solution, and partly throws it up in numerous little masses to the surface. This well was held in great superstitious repute in the Koman Ca- tholic times. Close on the western extremity of the parisli, is the hill of Galachlaw, famous as the site of Oliver Cromweirs encampment, in 1G50, with a force of 16.000, previous to the battle of Dunbar. A little east of it, at Mortoiihall, are some tumuli, suu- posed to have been of Koman origin. Large part of tlie Borough-moor, a tract repeatedly made promi- nent in the warlike history of Scotland and its metro- polis, is within the parish. In the park of Drum, the ancient residence of the famil^^ of Soinerville, stands part of the old market-cross of Edinbuigli, removed tiiither in 1756. But the grand civil an- tiquity of the parish is Cuaigmillar Castle: which see. Besides Mortonhall and Drum, there are the mansions of Inch House, built in 1617, — Brunstane, built by Lord Lauderdale in 1639, — Niddry, an an- cient baronial edifice, modernized and extended by a recent addition, — Southfield, — JMoredun, — St. Ca- therine's, — Mount Vernon, — Sunnyside, — and seve- ral villas. The village of Kirk-Liberton is a neat, small place, on the summit of a low, broad-based ridge, 2f miles south-south-east of the centre of Ed- inburgh, on the road thence to Lasswade. Nether- Liberton, I of a mile nearer Edinburgh, is only a small hamlet. The broad part of the parish is tra- versed by three lines of road diverging from Edin- burgh; and its north-eastern wing is crossed by the Nortii British railway. Population in 1831,4,063; in 1861, 3,507. Houses, 681. This parish is in the presbyterj' of Edinburgh, and sj'nod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £326 14s. 7d. ; glebe, £20. Un- appropriated teinds, £306 Os. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, now is £60. There are nine non-parociiial schools, — four of them partially endowed. The parish church is situated at Kirk-Liberton, was built in 1815. and contains 1,430 sittings. It is a very handsome building, Avith a beautiful tower in the Gothic style, and forms a fine object in the land- scape. There is a chapel of ease at Gilmerton, built in 1837, and containing about 300 sittings. The Free church for Liberton is also that for Newington, in the parish of St. Cutlibert's, and stands in the southern part of Edinburgh. There is also a Free church at Gilmerton, whose receipts in 1855 amount- ed to £75 15s. 6d. An hospital anciently stood at Upper Liberton, a little west of Kirk-Liberton ; and may have occa- sioned the name Leper-town, supposed to be the original form of the modern appellation Liberton. At the same place stood, till within the last 21 LIBERTY. O'lO o.io LIFF AND BENVIE. years, a tall peel-honse or tower, -wliich made some pretensions to liave belonged to a baron called Mac- beth, who held a considerable part of the lands of Liberton during the reign of David I., and witnessed some of David's cliartei-s. In connexion with this barony, Liberton comes first ecclesiastically into notice, as a chapehy erected by him, and subordi- nated to the church of St. Cutlibert. The chapel, situated at Kirk-Liberton, was probably dedicated to the Virgin, there having been a spring near it called Our Lady's well ; and it had attached to it a glebe of two oxgates of land. With St. Cuthbert's ciuirch. David I. granted the chapel to tlie canons of Holyrood ; and he gave to them also brushwood of his woodlands of Liberton, and tiie tithes of a mill at Nether-Liberton. In 12-iO, the chapelry, at the request of the abbot of Holyrood, was disjoined by the bishop of St. Andrews from the parish of St. I'uthbert's, and constituted a rectory belonging to tlie abbey : and thence till the Reformation, it was served by a vicar. For a brief period succeeding the year 1633, it was a prebend of the short-lived bishopric of Edinburgh; and, at the final abolition of episcopacy, it reverted to the disposal of the Ci'own. Subordinate to the parish church, there were in popish times two chapels. St. Catherine's, the more ancient, stood in the vicinity of the exist- ing cognominal mansion and bituminous well. The chapel was surrounded by a burying-ground, but, along with that accompaniment, was completely demolished after the Reformation. The other chapel stood at Niddry, close to the site of the pie- sent mansion, and is commemorated by its burying- ground, which continues to be in use, and by some faint vestiges of its walls. Its was founded in 1889 by Wauchope of Niddry, dedicated to the Virgin Mary; and was afterwards re-endowed by a de- scendant with a manse and glebe. At the Refor- mat'on, both the chapelry and its i-evenues were attached to Liberton church. A chapel built by James V. at Bridgend, and a Presbyterian chapel, built at Craigmillar during the indulgence given by James VII., still exist, and are used as stables. Among distinguished natives of the parish of Liberton have been Mr. Clement Little of Upper Liberton, who founded the college library of Edin- burgh, — Sir Symon de Preston of Craigmillar, in whose house as provost in Edinburgh Queen Mary was lodged on the night after the anair of Carberry- hill. — Sir John Gilmour of Craigmillar, who was Lord-president of the Coitrt-of-session about the period of the Restoration, — Gilbert AVauchope and Sir John Wauchope of Niddry, the former a member of the celebrated Reformation parliament of 1560, and the latter a distinguished Covenanter, and a member of the General Assembly of 1648, — and Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees, who, from 1692 till 171;'., filled the office of Lord-advocate of Scotland. The Wauchopes of Niddry have had a seat in the parish for nearly 500 years, and are probably the oldest family in Mid-Lothian. In the Transactions of the Society of Scottish Antiquaries is a paper on Li!)erton, containing minute and learned notices of its families and localities. LIBERTY, a village in the parish of Kilconquhar, Fifeshire. LIBO (Loch). See Neii.ston. LICHART. See Luichart. LIDDEL (The), a river of the parish of Castle- ton, Roxburghshire, and of the western part of the boundary with England. It rises in the extreme north corner of Castleton, in a great bog called Dead water, the source also at some miles' distance of the English Tyne; receives, in the early part of its course, many considerable feeders, which all ap- ])roach it at considerably acute angles; and runs 16 miles south-westward, swollen at diff"erent stages bv the Hermitage, the Tweeden, the Blackburn, and the Tinnis, wlien it is joined, on its left banlc, by Kersliope-water, the boundary, for 7^ miles, with England. For 10 miles from its source its brinks are bleak and naked, — in most places, a mountain gorge or glen ; but afterwards they are spread out in a beautiful thougii not broad valley, carpeted with fine verdure, adorned with beautiful plantations, and screened by picturesque heights. After its con- fluence with the Kershope, it continues its south- westerly direction, becomes beautifully sinuous, and runs 7^ miles to the Esk, dividing Castleton 2^ miles, and Canobie in Dumfiies-shirc 5 miles, from Eng- land. Its additional tribittaries are numerous, but all individually small. In all the lower part of its course, its banks are sylvan, pictitresque, and, at intervals, romantic; and, at a cataract called Pen- ton-linns, 3 miles from the confluence with the Esk, they are wildly yet beautifully grand. Stupendous rocky precipices fall sheer down to the bed of the stream, and wall up the water within a narrow broken channel ; they have, along their face on the Scottish side, a terrace-walk carried along a ledge, and aff'ording a view of the vexed and foaming stream, torn into shreds and lashed into foam among the obstructing rocks of the cataract; and they are richly Cringed and patched in their crevices with copsewood. In the middle of the cataract rises from the river's bed a solitary large rock crowned with shrubs, whose broken and wood-adorned sum- mit figures majestically in a conflict with the roar- ing waters during a high flood. At the Liddel's confluence with the Esk a sort of promontory is formed, on wliich stand the ruins of a fort called in the district the Strength of Liddeh The Liddel is an excellent trouting-stream. LIDDESDALE, a district of Roxburghshire, drained by the Liddel, taking its name from that stream, and identical, as to both limits and history, with the parish of Casti.etox: which see. The lordship of Liddesdale seems to have been early the property of remarkable men. It was forfeited, in 1320, by William Soulis, when he plotted against Robert Bruce ; it was granted by Robert Bruce to his son Robert, who soon after died ; it was trans- ferred, in 1342, by David II., to William, Earl of Douglas; and, after various forfeitures, it went finally into the possession of the prosperous and potent family of Scott. In 1747, the Duke of Buc- cleuch i-eceived £600 as compensation for its here- ditary jurisdiction, which was then abolished. LIECHESTOWN. See Deskford. LIFF AND BENVIE, an united maritime parish, jiartlv in Perthshire, but chiefly in Forfarshire. It contains the villages of Litf, lienvie, Invergowrie, Daigie, Muirhead, and Backmtiir, the small post- town of Lochee, and part of the burgh of Dundee. It is bounded by the frith of Tay. and by the par- ishes of Longforgan, Fowlis-Easter, Auchterhonse, Strathmartin, Mains, and Dundee. Its length west- ward is about 6 miles; and its breadth is about 4 miles. Dighty water, and a small tributary of that stream, trace the northern boundary. Invergowrie burn, together with the head-streams which form it, drains most of the interior. Tlie surface of the ]iarish rises gently from the Tay for nearly 8 miles, till it attains an elevation of about 400 feet above the level of the sea; and then it declines northward to the Dighty. The soil of the lower grounds is eitlier clayey or a black mould inclining to loam; and that of the higher grounds is light and sandy, upon a subsoil of rock or mortar. About 4,400 im- perial acres are in tillage; about GO are in pasture: LIFF AND BENVIE. 334 LILLIESLEAF. and about 6,700 are under wood, cIulIIv in extensive plantations in the north. Excellent sandstone is extensively quarried. The principal landowners are Lord Gray, the E irl of Campfrdown, and Clayhills of Invergowrie, Edward of Halrudder}^ and Wed- derburn of Wedderburn. The real rental in iS.'w . was £11,383. Asses.sed property in ISG.O, £13,377 l.')S. Od. Estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1842, £31,330. Near the centre of the parish stands Camperdown- house, — so named from Admiral Lord Duncan's vic- tory of 1797. The edifice, now used as the family- mansion in place of Lundie-house, is constructed of white sandstone, has a massive octostyle Ionic portico, and is now the property of Admiral Lord l)iuican'3 son, the Earl of Camperdown, raised to the earldom in 1831. Lundie, the paternal property of the Earl, lies in the neighbouring parish of Lundie. Half-a-niile south of the village of Liff stands Gray-house, the family mansion of Lord Gray, finely situated on a gentle ascent amid large old trees. Upwards of 2 miles west of Gray-house, neir the extremity of a western projecting stripe of tlie parish, stands the spiicious mansion of Balrud- derv, erected by the keen, skilful agriculturist, Mr. Webster. Close on the western boundaiy of the main body of the parish, 6 miles from Dundee, stands the village of Lift"; and, a mile south of this, stands the hamlet of Benvie. Both are ancient, and were for some time prosperous, but have suffered grievous decay and desertion. In the villages, in some hamlets, and in detached houses, reside a large population strictly suburljan in position, employ- ment, and character to Dundee. The weaving of linen fabrics for the Dundee manufacturers is exten- sively conducted. There arc several spinning-mills at Lochee,andoneat Denmiln; and thei-e is an exten- sive paper-work, belonging to an Edinburgh house, at Bullion, near Invergowrie, In an enclosure op- posite the churchyard of Liff may be traced the site of a castle, said to have been built by Alexander I, of Scotland, and called Huily-Hawkin, In the neigh- bourhood of Camperdown-house was discovered, toward the close of last century, a subterranean build- ing of several apartments, rude in structure, and un- cemented by mortar. Close on the boundary with Dundee is a place called Pitalpie, or Pit of 'Alpin, from having been the scene of that memorable en- gagement, in the 9th century, between the Scots and the Picts, when the former lost victory, many nobles, and their king. Tlie parish is traversed by the roads and railways from Dundee to Perth and Newtyle, and has stations on the railways. Popu- lation of the Perthshire section in 1831, 30; in 1861, 30. Houses, 7. Population of the entire parish in 1831, 4,247; in 18fil, 24,108. Houses, 1,911. The great apparent increase in the population is explained by the fact, that the parts of tlie parish nearest Dundee, and containing the great bulk of the in- habitants, were formerly returned with the burgh of Dundee only, and erroneously substracted from Liff and Benvie. The return for 1841 was made in the same manner as that for 1831; and it gave a population of 3,948, showing a decrease of 299. This parish is in the presbytery of Dundee, and svnod of Angus and Meams. Patron, Lord Grav. Stipend, £297 12s. 3d.; glebe. £18 18s. Unappro- priated teinds, £946 9s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary, is £52 10s., with £37 fees. The pfirish church w,as built in 1831, and contains 750 sittings. It is an elegant edifice, in the early Gothic style, with an ornamental tower and spire, 108 feet high. There is a chapel of ease at Lochee, built in 1830, and con- taining nearly 1,200 sittings; and it is in the pre- sentation of the male communicants. There aie two Eree churches, designated of Liff and of Lochee: attendance at the former, 300. — at the latter, 4(iO; receipts of the former in 1865, £137 lOs.lOd.,— of the latter, £2.50 5s. fid. There is an United Presby- terian church at Lochee, with an attendance of 540. There are a subscription school at Backmuir, a quasi-parochial school at Lochee, a school of in- dustry under the patronage of the Countess of Camperdown, and several other schools. The ori- ginal parish of Liff comprehended the space on which the greater part of the town of Lochee now stands. Tlie old parish of Logic, together with the lands of Balgay and Blackness, was annexed to Lifi" before the middle of the 17th century: and this is the part .if the present united parish which is comprised in the burgh of Dundee. The old parish of Invergow- rie was annexed to Liff as early as Logic was, or earlier. The parish of Benvie was united to tlie extended parish of Liff in 1758. The present united parish, therefore, comprehends the four ancient pa- rishes of Liff, Logic, Invergowrie, and Benvie. The lands of Liff belonged in the Roman Catholic times to the monastcrv of Scone. LIGHTBURN, a village in the east end of the parish of Cambuslang, Lanarkshire. Population, 163. Houses, 25. LIGHTWATER-BURN, a streamlet in the parish of Falkirk, fiiUing into the Canon, near the village of Camelon, Stirlingshire. LlLLIEHILL. See Dunfermline. LILLIESLEAF, a parish, containing a post-office village of its own name, in the north-west of Rox- burghshire. It is bounded by the parishes of Sel- kirk, Bowden, Ancrum, Minto, and Ashkirk. Its length eastward is 5 miles; and its gieatest breadth is about 2f miles. Ale-water runs 3 miles north- eastward through the interior, and 3 miles eastward and south-eastward along the boundary. Several broad low ridges, and waving alternations of slope and valley, diversify the surface of the parish; and though all capable of cultivation, and at one time subjected to the plough, are distributed in nearlj equal proportions into arable lands and pasture. About 600 acres are planted, and about 50 are mossy and waste. The soil is partly a light sand, partly clay, and partly a rich loam. The principal landowners are Sprot of Riddell, and Currie of Lint- hill. The mansion of Riddell stands on the left bank of Ale-water, f of a mile west of the village. This, till about the year 1823, was the seat of a family of its own name, whose history possesses a stiong antiquarian interest. " The family of Rid- dell," says Sir Walter Scott, in his Notes to the ' Lay of the Last Minstrel,' " have been very long in possession of the barony called Riddell or Rye- dale, part of which still bears the latter name. Tra- dition carries their antiquity to a point extremely remote, and is in some degree sanctioned by the discovery of two stone-coffins, — one containing an earthen pot filled with ashes and arms, bearing a legible date, a.d. 727, — the other dated 936, and filled with the bones of a man of gigantic size. These coffins were discovered in the foundations of what was, but has long ceased to be, the chapel of Rid- dell ; and, as it was argued with plausibility that they contained the remains of some ancestors of the family, they were deposited in the modern place of sepulture, comparatively so termed, though built in 1110." A well-informed and elegant historian sup- poses the family to have settled at Riddell in tlie 7th or the 8th century. Grants of land, or confirin- ation charters and bulls, were given to them before the close of the 12th centuiy, by David I. and Malcolm II., and by Popes Adrian V. and Alexan- der III. From the earliest traceable ancestor of LIMEKILNS. 335 LINCLUDEN. tlie familv down to Sir Jolin B. Eiddell, Bart., wlio ciied in 1821. the lands of Riddell and the AVliit- tunes descended, tlirough a lonjx trahi of ancestors, without once divercrins: from direct lineal succes- sion. Mr. Archibald Riddell. brother to the laird of Riddell, was a devout, zealous, distintruishcd covenanting minister, a little after tlie middle of the 17th century, took part with the celebrated Blackadder in conducting field- preachings in the south, and, about the year 1679, suffered imprison- ment for his opinions". Lilliesleaf moor, or as it is popularly called Lilsly-raoor, was the scene of many meetings of the Covenanters ; and both that place and other localities in the parish witnessed attacks upon them, or skirmishes with them, by parties of the royal troops. The village of Lillies- leaf stands a little north of the centre of the parish, miles south-west of St. Boswells, 6 east-south-east of Selkirk, and 10 west by north of Jedburgh. It is a pleasant thriving place, rather irregularly built, and of quite a rural character; but it anciently was a centre of strength during the period of the Border forays, possessing no fewer than at least fourteen peel houses or fortalices. It is the seat of nearly one-half of the population of the parish. There is much taste in it for floriculture. The yearly value of the raw produce of the parish was "estimated in 1834 at £10,0.S0. Assessed property iu 1864, £6.923 16s. 3d. The eastern boundary i's nearer the Belses station of the Edinburgh and Hawick railway. Population in 1831, 781; in 1861, 772. Houses, 150. This parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk, and synod of Murse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Duke of Roxburgh. Stipend, £243 8s. 5d.; glebe, £17. Unappropriated teinds, £80 19s. 3d. Schoolmas- ter's salary is now £.55, with about £40 fees, and £22 other emoluments. The parisli church wns built in 1771, and is sufficiently commodious. There is an United Presbyterian church, which was built about the year J 808, and has an attendance of 250. There are a non- parochial school and a public libraiy. In 1128, David I. srranted to the monks of Kelso the tithes of the mill of Lilliesleaf, and 30 acres of land lying between the Ale and the village. The ancient church of Lilliesleaf was of high but unascertained date, and belonged, before the year 1116, to the church of Glasgow, and was early con- firmed to the bishopric of that city by several papal bulls. At Hermiston, in the western extremity of the parish, there was anciently a church, which also belonged to Glasgow. At a place still called Cliapel, half-a-mile north-east of the village, for- merly stood a chapel, around which was a cemetery called Chapel-park. LILYBURN. See Camp.?je. LIMEKILNS, a sea-port village, with a post- office, in the parish of Dunfermline, Fifeshire. It stands contiguous to the east end of Charleston, 3 miles south-south-west of Dunfermline, 3i west of Inverkeithing, and 4 east-south-east of Torryburn. Its statistics of commerce and trade are mixed up with those of Charleston, — which see. Its har- bour is good, and easily admits, at stream tides, vessels of 300 tons burden. Here is an United Presbyterian church, which was built in 1825, at the cost of £2,000, and contains 1,056 >sittings. Here also are a school, a mariner's benevolent so- ciety, and a marine assurance association. Popula- tion", 828. LIMEKILNS, Lanarkshire. See Kilbride (East). LIN, or Linn, a topographical name, of Celtic origin, used both singly and as a prefix. It signi- fies a deep pool, a lake, or any piece of water ; but is coinraonlv used in Scotland to designate a cas- cade falling into a pO(jl, and is often associated in the Scottish mind, not with the pool but with the cascade. LINBURN. See Kirknewton. LINCLUDEN, an ancient and rained religious house, H mile north of Dumfries, but situated on the right bank of the Cluden or Cairn, at its con- fluence with the Nith, in the parish of Terregles, Kirkcudbrightshire. The house was originally a convent for Benedictine or ]5lack nuns, and was founded by Uchred. son to Fergus, and father to Roland, lords of Galloway. But about the end of the 14th century, Aichibald. Earl of Douglas, and Lord of Galloway, called the Grim, expelled the nuns on account of debauched conduct, and con- verted the establishment into a college or pro- vostry, for a provost and 12 canons, — aften\'ards so altered as to admit a provost, 8 prebendaries, 24 beadsmen, and a chaplain. The Earls of Douglas, when in the zenith of their power, expended con- siderable sums in ornamenting the place, and, when wardens of the West marches, adopted it as their favourite residence. From what remains of the ancient building, which is part of the provost's house, the chancel, and some of the south wall of the church, an idea may easily be attained of its former splendour. The choir, in particular, was finished in the finest style of the florid Gothic ; the roof was treble, in the manner of that of King's college. Cambridge; and the trusses, whence sprang the ribbed arch-work, are covered with armorial bearings. Over the door of the vestry are the arms of the Grim Earl, the founder of the provostiy, and those of his lady, who was heiress of Botliwell. Both he and Uchred. the founder of the nunnery, were buried in the place. In the chancel is the elegant tomb of Margaret, daughter of Robert III., and wife of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, first Duke of Teronan, and son of Archibald the Grim. Along the walls of the nrin are a profusion of ivy and a few dwarfish bushes ; around are a few trees which form an interrupted and romantic shade ; on the north is a meadow, sleepily traversed by the Clu- den ; on the east is a lovely little plain, spread out like an esplanade, half its circle edged with the Cluden and the Nith; on the south-east were, not long ago, distinct vestiges of a bowling-green, flower-garden, and parterres; and beyond is a huge artificial mound, cut round to its summit by a spiral walk, and commanding a brilliant view of the ' meeting of the waters' immediately below, and of the joyous landscape which environs Dumfries. The place is much cherished by the inhabitants of that polished burgh, and was a favourite haunt of the poet Bums. The provosts of Lincluden were in general men of considerable eminence ; and several of them held important offices in the state. The first was Elese; the second was Alexander Cairns, chamberlain to the Earl of Douglas; the third was John Cameron, who became secretary, lord-privy-seal, and chan- cellor of the kingdom, archbishop of Glasgow, and one of the delegates of the church of Scotland to the council of Basil ; the fourth was John Mac- gilhauck, rector of Parton, and secretary to the Countess-dowager of Douglas ; the fifth was Haly- burton, whosa anns were carved on the south wall of the church; the sixth, John Winchester, who afterwards became bishop of Moray ; the seventh, John Methven, who became secretary-of-state and an ambassador of the court; the eighth, James Lind- sav, in 1449, who was made keeper of the privy- seal, and an ambassador to England ; the ninth, tenth, and eleventh, were persons of the name of Livingstone, Herries, and Anderson, men of family LINDEAN. 336 LINLITHGOW. and note; the twelfth was Andrew Stewart, third son of Sir James Stewart, tlie Black kniglit of Lorn, and he was, at the same time, dean of faculty of the university of Ghisf^ow, and afterwards became bishop of Moray; tlie thirteenth was George Hep- burn, uncle to the first Earl of Bothwell, and, while he held several benefices, he was also lord-trea- surer of Scotland, and eventually fell at the side of his monarch on the field of Flodden ; the four- teenth was William Stevv-art, son of Sir Thomas Stewart of Minto, and he became, in 1530, lord-trea- surer of Scotland, and afterwards bishop of Aber- deen ; and those who followed were a Maxwell and tiiree Douglases. The last was Mr. Robert Doug- las, a bastard son of Sir James Douglas of Druni- lanrig. lie was appointed provost in 1547, obtained an act of legitimation in 1559, and was allowed to enjoy the benefice during about 40 years after the Reformation. His grand-nepliew, William Douglas, the heir of Drumlanrig. obtained a reversion of the provostry, and after Ro])crt's death, enjoyed its pro- perty and revenues during his own life. Succeeding to the family estates of Drumlanrig, and created first Viscount Drumlanrig, and next Earl of Queens- berry, he got vested in himself and his heirs the patronage and tithes of the ciiurchcs of Terregles, Lochrutton, Colvend, Kirkbean, and Caerlaverock, belonging to the college, and also a small part of its lands. But tlie major part of the property of the establishment was, in 1611, granted, in different shares, to Sir Robert Gordon of Lochinvar, and to John Murray. I>INDEAN, an ancient parish on the north-west border of Ro.Kburghshire, now united to Galashiels. It has a post-office station of its own name. See Galashiels. LINDORES, a post-office village in the parish of Abdie, Fifeshire. See Audie and Newbl'rgh. LINDORES (Grange of). See Grange of Lin- DORES. LINDSTOX. See Dalrtmple. LINE LAKE. See Kilninver. LINEN APRON (The). See Mortlacu. LINGA, an islet belonging to the parish of Stron- sav and Eday, in Orkney. It lies off the north- west coast of the island of Stronsay. A strait en- larging itself on the south into a bay, and called in both parts Linga sound, separates Lingafrom Stron- say, and forms an excellent natural harbour. Linga is an island of the kind provincially called a holm ; and sometimes bears the name of Linghohn. It is inhabited by only one family ; and a small portion of it is under cultivation. LINGA, an islet belonging to' the parish of Ting- wall in Shetland. It lies about 2^ miles north-west of Scalloway-castle, and about midway between the mainland and the island of Hildasay. It is inhabited by only one family. LINGA, an isle about 2 miles long, extending north and south about a mile from the mainland of Shetland, and 3 miles south of the southern extrem- ity of Yell. LINGA. one of the Treshinish isles, belonging to the parish of Kilninian and Kilmore, in Argyleshire. Its coast is a low plain, and its interior rises, by a succession of terraces, to an altitude of about 300 feet. See Tkeshjnish Isles. • LINGAY, an islet belonging to the parish of Barra, in the Outer Hebrides. It lies 3^ miles south of Vatersay. It has excellent pasture, but is uninhabited by man. LINGHOLM. See Linga in Orkney. LINGORE-LINN, an aflluent of Breich-water, at the east end of the parish of Cambusnethan. in Lan- arkshire. LINHOPE-GRAINS. See Frostly Water. LlNllOUSE-WATER, a rivulet of the west side of Edinburghshire. It rises among the Pentlands, near the point where the counties of Edinburgh, Peebles, and Lanark meet ; and runs southward, along tiie upper part of West Calder, across tlie upper part of Mid Calder, and along the boundary between Mid Calder and Kirknewton, to a confluence with tlie Almond, a little below the villa;:c of Mid Calder. The tract which it traverses is diversified and jiicturesque. Muirhouseton-water ji>ins it on its left side, contiguous to the village of Mid Calder. The length of the Linhouse-water's course is about 10 miles. LINKET BAY. a small open bay, on the east sitle of the island of North Ronaldshay, in Orkney. LINKS, any unenclosed tract, with light soil and stunted herbage, of the character called in England downs. The name is applied chiefly to tracts on the east coast of Scotland, contiguous to towns, and in a state of commonage. See Andrews (St.), Dunbar, Musselburgh, I.,ErrH, Montrose, and other articles. LINKSHOUSK, a post-office station subordinate to J>erwick, in Shetland. L 1 N KSNESS, a headland in the north of the island of Stronsay, in Orkney. LINKTOWN, a burgh of regality in the parish of Abbotshall, Fifeshire. It forms part of the parlia- mentary burgh of Kirkcaldy, is a prolongation west- ward of Kirkcaldy-proper, and figures practically, in all respects, as a component part of " the lang toon o' Kirkcaldy." Population in 1841, 4,100; in 1851, 4,342. Houses, 360. See Abbotshall and Kirk- CALDr. LINK WOOD. See Lhanbride. LINLITHGOW, a parish, containing the royal burgh of Linlithgow, and part of thevillage of Linlitli- gow-hridge, in Linlithgowshire. It is bounded on the west by Stirlingshire, and on other sides by the parish- es of Borrowstownness, Carriden, Abercom, Eceles- machan, Uphall, Bathgate, and Torphichen. Its length westward is 6 miles; and its greatest breadth is 5^ miles. The river Avon traces all the boundary with Stirlingshire. Netherniill-burn and Main-burn rise in the south-west corner, and flow east-north-east- ward through the interior into the neighbom'ing parishes. Linlithgow-loch, Ij'ing immediately north of the burgh, and measuring nearly a mile in length, by about ^ of a mile in breadth, is a beautiful sheet of water, skirted on the south side by the town gardens, on other sides by verdant or wooded rising- grounds, and oveidooked, at a peninsular point, by the noble ruins of the ancient palace. The super- fluence of the lake, under the name of the Loch- btirn, runs north-westward to the Avon. The S(nithern division of the parish is gently upland, sending up what, in a champaign country like West Lothian, are noticealile summits. These are three in number, all on a line, each two at an interval of 1| mile. The eastern one, called Binny-craig, was once fabled by superstition to be a favourite haunt of the fairies ; the middle one is properly a congeries of heigh rs, called Riccarton-hills ; and the -western one, which is the highest and bears the name of Cocklerue, or Cuckold le Roi, rises about 500 feet above sea-level. The northern division, though diversified in surface, may be regarded as nearly a plain. The soil in the south and south-east is a pretty strong clay, stiff', and upon a retentive subsoil, more suited to pasturage than to the plough; and, in all other parts, is generally light and free, easily cultivated, and rich in its returns. Coal occurs in thin seams in the southern district, but is not at present worked. Excellent limestone abounds ii. the uarish, and is worked in three places. Sand- LINLITHGOW. oo7 LINLITHGOW Btone and whinstone are sufficiently abundant; and the former is worked in two qnanies, — one of wliicli, at East Binny, is i-emarkable for a bitumen, which is sometimes melted and made into bright flaming candles. A silver-mine was anciently worked in the soutliern extremity of the parish, and is said to have yielded much wealth to the Haddington family. Groat pieces, coined from its produce during the time of Linlithgow being a royal residence, are still in the repositories of the cuiious. The place where the metal was smelted, lies westward of the town, and is still called Silver-mill; but the ore is either exhnusted, or hitherto has eluded modern search. A. mineral well atCarrubber, of similar properties to the spa of Moffat, was formerly resorted to, but is now totally neglected. The parish abounds with copious springs of the purest water; a fact which was long ago commemorated in a popular rhyme, which speaks of "Glasgow for bells," and "Linlitli- gow for wells." The principal landowners are Mr. iStewart of Piiysgill, Mr. Seton of Preston, the Earl of Roseberry, the Earl of Hopetoun, the Earl of Sel- kirk, and the Duke of Hamilton. The principal residences in the rural districts are Woodcockdale and Champfleurie. There is a large aggregate and good distribution of wood ; and, with the exception of the planted ground, and of a few acres upon hill tops inaccessible to the plough, the entire land of the parish is in tillnge. The average rental is about 41 3. per Scots acre. Assessed property in 1860, £21,318 odds. The parish is traversed l)y the road from Edinburgh to Falkirk, by the Union canal, by tiie Slamannan railway, and by the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway ; and it has a station on tlie last of these at the burgh. There are on the Avon a paper mill, several grain mills, and a large calico printing establishment; and in the burgh and else- where, a distillery, a brewery, two glue works, five tanneries, and an extensive trade in boot and shoe making, besides a considerable amount of hnnd- sewing for the Glasgow manufacturers. Population in 1831, 4,874 ; in 1861, 5,784. Houses, 037. On the tract of ground east of the town, still called Boroughmoor, though a moor no longer, but finely cultivated, Edward I. encamped on the night pre- vious to his defeating the troops of Wallace in the battle of Falkirk. On the same ground, upwards of 65 years ago, were found in an earthen urn about 300 Roman coins, probably the collection of a vir- tuoso. Nearly a mile north-west of the town is the scene of a sanguinary conflict, begun opposite the priory of Manuel, but fought out here, between the Earl of Arran and the Earl of Lennox, during the minority of James V. Thoirgh the precise spot cannot now be identified, it was long distinguished by one of those rude memorials to which every pas- senger contributed a stone, and which was called "Lennox's cairn." Near this spot, or possibly iden- tical with it, is a field anciently used for military exercises and feats, and still called the joisting- haugh. Immediately west of the town are two ris- ing grounds, one of which is traditionally said to have been the seat of feudal courts of justice. The plain below it still bears the name of Doomsdale. On the hill of Cuckold le Roi are vestiges of a mili- tary station. At the bottom also is the appearance of the ditch; and on the summit is a cavity, called Wallace's cradle, which is reported lo have given frequent shelter to the Scottish patriot. On an eminence in the south-east of the parish are more distinct traces of a camp. But the grand anti- quities occur to be noticed in our account of the town. Among noted persons, natives of the parish, or connected with it, may be mentioned Stewart of Pnrdovan, Ninian Winzet, James Kirkwood, Biii- TT. noch, and Rol) Gib. Purdovan possessed considei-- able property in the parish, was repeatedly provost of the burgh, represented it in the last Scottish par- liament, and wiote the remarkable statutoiy book as to the proceedings of Presbyterian church courts, which has long been the vade mecum of every sciolist in the intricacies of Presbyterial law. Ninian Winzet was rector of the burgh school at the Refor- mation, and is said to have been preceptor to some of the royal family, but figures chiefly as the elected champion of Poperj' in logical tiltings with John Knox, and as a sort of conlessor for the church of Rome, — having been banished from the kingdom, and made abbot of the Scottish convent at Ratisbon. James Kirkwood was rector of tlie same school at the Revolution, and made himself remarkable by satirizins the pragmatic town-council in a piece en- titled 'The History of the Twenty-seven Gods of Linlithgow,' by offering valuable suggestions to the parliaiuentary commissioners on colleges, and by composing, at the commissioners' request, a Latin grammar, which held the place of universal text- book in Scotland till displaced by Ruddiman's Rudi- ments. Binnoch figures in a story — afterwards to be told — which ascribes to him a singularly clever cap- ture of the castle, ranks him high as a patriot in the stirring period of Bruce's struggle witli Edward L, and reminds one of the stratagem ascribed to Ulysses in the Tiojan war. Some lands in the south of "the parish were given to Binnoch as a reward, and still bear his name softened into Binny. The Binnings of Wallyford were said to be descended from him ; and, in allusion to the transaction which brought him fame and wealth, had for their arms a hay wain, with this motto, " Virtute doloque. " Rob Gib, of facetious memory, acted as buffoon to James V.; and gave, on one occasion, a severe re- proof to the obsequious courtiers, saying that he had always served his master "for stark love and kind- ness";" and received from the King the property of West Carubber on the Avon, which his descendants continued to enjoy till some time during last cen tury. This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the svnod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £361 14s. lid.; glebe. £11. Un- appropriated teinds, £1,002 13s. 7d. The parish church is a veiv fine ancient building, repaired in 1813, and containing 1,100 sittings, and w-ill be noticed in our account of the town. There is a Free church, with 450 sittings; and the amount of its re- ceipts in 18(i5 was £463 Os. 8d. There are two United Presbvterinn churches; the one built in 1806. and containing 480 sittings; the other built in 1834. and containing 546 sittings. There is also an Independent chapel, with 3inlithgowloch, sheltered by ridges of lising ground along both the north and the south. A single street, running due west 650 yards from tlie toll to the site of the ancient cross, afterwards making two bends, and ending:' in a south- westerly direction at the West Port, and measuring altogether f of a mile in lengtii, constitutes the great body of the town. Very brief lanes and narrow alleys wing both its sides, running off from it at right angles; and a number of detached or straggling houses stand on the eastern and southern outskirts. The High-street is broad and airy toward the cast, becomes contracted for some distance westward of its middle, and again expands toward its south- western termination. Many of the houses belonged of old to the knights of St. John, who had their preceptory at Torphichen ; and some were the pro- ])erty of grandees who nestled under the warm wing of the royal court. Nearly all these buildings have a mean, decayed, yet substantial appearance. A slow process of rebuilding has been going on during upwards of sixty years, and has, to a considerable extent, modernized the street. But ibr a long period after ceasing to be the home of kings and grandees — particularly after the union of tiie crowns, and again after the union of the kingdoms — the town declined in opulence, in trade, and in every attribute of importance; and even in more recent times, not- withstanding a large amount of re-edification, it has undergone very little enlargement. Yet it continues to bear many marks of ancient grandeur, and is gi'ouped with objects which make it a fine subject for the pencil. Tlie magnificent ruins of its royal palace, — the venerable fabric used as the parish church, and situated so near the palace as to form almost a part of it, — the grand terrace which bears both aloft, and is sheeted on three sides with water, — the lofty trees which look as if they were coeval with the sacred and royal piles whicli they adorn, — the beautiful expanse of the lake half-encincturing tiiese olijects, and spread from end to end of tlie town like a mirror, to reflect a silvered copy of its features, — the plantations alternated with pastnre- giound, and waving fields all round the environs, — and even the motley architecture of the town, the mixture of dingy old houses with sprightly new- ones, and the spruce erections at and near the rail- way station, — form altogether an agreeable and un- common picture. The town-hall, situated in the High-street, at the foot of the thoroughfare leading up to the churcli and the palace, is an edifice of not unpleasing ap- pearance, built in 1668, with spire and clock, and containing the town-hall, the sheriff court- room, and the jail. The county buildings, situated at the rear of the town-house, liave a plain exterior; but the hall is a fine apartment, adorned with beautiful portraits of the great Earl of Hopetoun and Sir Alexander Hope of Kankeilour. Beside the town- house, on the site of the ancient market cross, in a small open area, stands the Cioss-well, an ol)ject of great architectural elegance and local celebrity. The present structure was erected in 1805, and is believed to be an exact fac-simile of a previous structure which had gone to decay, except that the carvings are more finished, the proportions of the figures more symmetrical, and the general grouping more harmonious. It In of a fantastic and whimsical appearance, hexagonal in form, profusely adorned with grotesque sculpturings. constantl}' emitting 13 jets of water from the mouths of curious figures of animals, and surmounted by a lion rampant support- ing the royal arms of Scotland. In its renovated form it was planned, and its richest sculpturing ex- ecuted, by Kobert Gray, an Edinburgh artist, who had only one hand, and wielded his mallet by a fixture upon the stump of his handless arm. About 120 yards north of the well, or of the line of High-street, stands the parish church, a venerable and impressive pile, an exhibition of mingled ele- gance and strength, and one of the most entire and beautiful specimens of old Gothic architecture in Scotland. It is 182 feet in length from east to west, 100 feet in breadth, including the aisles, and about 90 feet in height ; and it sends up from its centre a lofty tower, formerly terminating in an imperial crown, and contributing a highly ornamental fea- ture to the burghal landscape. The crown, how- ever, no longer exists. Its weight being thought injuiious to the structure beneath, it was removed about twenty years ago. Some of the windows are extremely elegant. A number of statues anciently figured on the exterior, but, with one exception, were demolished at the Reformation. The statue which escaped was that of St. ^lichael, the adopted patroi: of the town ; and it too might probably have shared the fate of its fellows, had it not stood higher botii in popular estimation and in physical altitude, — oc- cupying a place not easy of assault. The original edifice is of uncertain date, but very probably was erected by Uavid I., the founder of so many rich and grand ecclesiastical structures. Its nave was, in 1424, destroyed by fire, and, in its present form, has a more modern appearance than the rest of the pile. The roof of the chancel, erected by Gecnge Ciichton, and ornamented with his ainiorial beariiv'S as bisliop of Dunkeld, is both elegant and dniable, A plan was formed by James V. to erect in the in- LINLITHGOW. LINL1THG0T\ . terior a tlironc and twelve stalls, for himself and tlie kiiiglits of the Thistle; but, in consequence of his sudden death, it was not carried into execution. The west end was of old used as a burying-place of the great, a sort of mimic Westminster abbey ; but it was stripped of its tomb-stones, and converted into a stable for the horses of his dragoons, by Oliver Cronnvell. Only the east end is now used as a place of worship, separated from the other end; and wlien last repaired, it was put, at the expense of nearly £4,000, into a condition corresponding with the grandeur of the fabric. Of the various chaplainries and altars which anciently existed in tlie church, 8t. Catherine's is the only one whose name survives. The aisle in which the altar stood is a recess on the south side, covering the burying vault of the family of the attainted Earl of Linlithgow. While sitting at "evensong" in the aisle, says tradition — and cer- tainly in the churcli, says history — James IV. saw the strange masquerade, passed off upon him as an apparition, which warned him against his fatal ex- pedition to England, terminating in the battle of Flodden. Sir Walter Scott has fitly introduced this vision into his Marmion, making Sir David Lindsay the naiTator, and depicting the affair exactly as it is described by the historians of the time: — "Tlie wondering Moiiarcli seemed to seek For answer, and found none : And when he raised Ids head to speak, The monitor was gone. Tlie Marshal and myself had cast 'I'o stop him as he outward past; But lighter than the wliirlwind's blast. He vanished from our eyes, Like sunbeam on the billow cast, That glances but, and dies." Immediately north of the church stands the mag- nificent ruin of the palace, the most remarkable oljject in Jjinlithgow. Its site is a peninsula pi-o- jecting almost into the middle of the loch, and, wiien viewed from the nortii, has the appearance of an amphitheatre, with a descent on the three sides, and terrace-walks on the west. The palace occupies about an acre of ground, and though heavy in ap- pearance from its almost total want of windows, and care-worn and haggard in aspect from the ruinous- ness of its condition, is still a picturesque and beau- tiful object ; and, within tliese few years, it has undergone extensive repairs, with the view, Ixith of preserving it from dilapidation, and of making a fuller disclosure of its beauties, under the sanction and at the expense of the government. At the head of tlie avenue leading up to it from the street is a fortified gateway, formerly ornamented with now the scarcely traceable insignia of the knightly Orders of the Garter and tiie Golden fleece, St. Michael and St. Andrew, the last founded by James V., and the others presented to him respectively by Henry VIII. of Eng- land, Charles V. of Germany, and Francis I. of France. On the east side, at tlie head of a sweeping avenue still lined with trees, stands the grand gateway, with the place for the portcullis, but in an obsolete con- dition. Over the interior is a niche in which for- merly stood an elegant statue of Pope Julius II., who presented James V. with the sword of state which still forms part of the Scottish regalia, and bougiit Iiim up by flattery to oppose tlie progress of tlie Reformation. East of the grand gate lay the gar- dens. The palace consists all of polished stone, and is a large hollow quadrangle, generally five stories high, with towers at the corners. In the centre of the interior square was a fine well, adorned with several statues, and so constructed as occasionally to form high and beautiful jets d'eau, but now a mass of confused ruin. On tlie east side above the grand entrance was the Parliament hall, believed to have been commenced by James IV., and finished and decorated by In's successor. Originally it was a splendid apartment, with a beautifully ornamented chimney at one end, and surmounting a magnificent piazza ; but it is now a roofless, ragged ruin. On the south side was the chapel, suppos'ed to have been built by James V. At the north-west angle is a small department, called the King's dressing-closet, cin-iously ornamented, and looking out upon the lake. In one of the sides is a room 90 feet long, 30^ I'eet wide, and 33 feet high : having at one end a gallery with three arches. Many of the windows, and some of the doors, on the north or most modern and magnificent side, have, with accompanying ornaments, the initials of the name of James VI.. by whom it was erected shortly after his visit to Scot land in 1617, the pediments over the windows bear- ing the date of 1019. On the west or oldest side, where a tower or peel-house formed the nucleus ot the whole palace, is shown the apartment in which Queen Mary was born. Narrow galleries run quite round this side, to preserve the communication with the apartments. In one of the vaults below James III. found shelter from an attempt at assassination on tlie part of some of his rebellious subjects. The site of the palace was, at the dawn of ac thentic history, a Konian fort or station, and sent off a communication, intended apparently to serve both as a road and as a line of defence, to Antoninus' wall, at a point in the parish of Falkirk nearly op- posite Callendar-house. Edward I., according to Fordoun, built a peel or castle on the spot in 1300, and spent there the Christmas of next year. On settling the kingdom, and retiring to England in 1305, he left it garrisoned under the charge of Peter Lubard. Two years afterwards it was taken and demolished by Bruce, aided by the curious device and successful stratagem of the peasant Binny or Binnoch, the William Tell of Scotland. " Binny, who was known to the garrison, and had been em- ployed in leading hay into the fort, communicated his design to a party of Scottish soldiers, whom he stationed in ambush near the gate. In his large wain he contrived to conceal eight armed men, cov- ered with a load of hay; a servant drove the oxen, and Binny himself walked carelessly at his side. When the portcullis was raised, and the wain stood in the middle of the gateway, interposing a complete barrier to its descent, the driver cut the ropes which harnessed the oxen; upon which signal the armed men suddenly lenpt from the cart, the soldiers in ambush rushed in, and so complete was the surprise, that with little resistance, the garrison were put to the sword, and the place taken." The castle was doomed to ruin by Bruce, who reli'd chiefly on the moral energy of his ioUowers' courage, and little on the appliances of physical strengths and fortifica- tions; but it appears to have been rebuilt by the English during their brief possession of Scotland under the minority of David II., and seems al'tei-- wards to have been improved or renovated by David himself. A precept of Da\nd granted the " peel of Linlitligow" to John Cairns, and enjoined him to " build it for the King's coming." 'J'he place was now occasionally, but in a very subordinate manner, a royal residence. Though James I. liut seldom occupied it, several of his coins bear the legend, " Villa de Linlithe." In 1424, in connnon with the town and with the nave of the church, it was set on fire; but whether it was slightly or ruinously in jured, and who was its renovator or re-edificer, are matters not known. It was now called a palace, but may have been only a tower, having vaults below and comfortable apartments above, and but a dcarec stronger or more commodious than a peel- LINLITHGOW. 340 LINLITHGOW house. James IV. built tlie enstcrn siil- of tlio pre- sent quadrangle, and prelerred it to all his other residences. In the time of James V., who also made large additions to it, his consort, Mary of Guise, on being conducted to it, said ''slic had never seen a more piincely palace ;" and she afterwards proved the sincerity of her compliment, as far at least as the palaces of Scotland were concerned, by pre- ferring it to any other of tin; King's residences, and spending in it a large part of her time. Tiio pile in its final form, was completed by James VI. Though, after the union of the crowns, it sutfered from deser- tion, it continued to be habitable till January 174t'>. When the loyal army were on their march in pursuit of the Pretender's forces, Hawley's dragoons occu- pied the hall on the north side of the quaiidrangle, and, in the huny of their departure, left some fnes in a condition to iq-nite the building. IJefore tlie danger was discovered, the roof was mantled in Hamc; and, being covered witli load, it sent down such a shower of melted metal as entirely precluded any attempt to arrest the conflagration. Its vestiges of splendour and the beauty of its site, aided a little by imagination, still bring I)el'ore the visitor's view the princely pile so cheerily sung in the ' Lay of the Last Minstrel:' " Of ail tlie palaces so fair Built for the royal dwellir.ir, III Scotland, far bej-ond coiiiiiare Linlithgow is excelling : And in its park in jovial June How sweet the merry linnn's time, How blythe the blackbird's lay ! The wild "buck bells from ferny brake. The coot dives merry on the lake. — The saddest heart might pleasure take To see a. scene so gay." No other edifices of Linlithgow demand notice. Nor even as to trade is there much to smv. The Union canal passes along the rising grountl on tlie south of the town, at the distance of from 70 to 450 yards from the High-street, and has a small basin there which used to be the scene of some trattic. The Edinburgh and Glasgow railway ]>asses between the canal and the town, and commands a good view of the church, the palace, and the lake; and its sta- tion there, besides serving for the town itself, is a considerable focus of communication for the sur- rounding country. The principal inns are the Star and Garter and the Red Lion. The town, in a gen- eral view, is more or less interested in all the niann- factu'/es whicli we noticed in our account of the p ir- ish ; but its chief trade, for generations, has lieen the making of leather and shoes. The art of pre- paring leather is said to have been introduced by tiie soldiers of Cromwell; but, though still carried on with a degree of vigour, seems to be prosecuted with diminishing success. In 1793, there were 17 tan- j ners, 18 curriers, and 13 skinners: and, in 1,S26, there were only 12 of the first class, of the second, and 5 of the third. Shoemaking has moved parallel with the sister art, and shared its vicissitudes. Dur- ing the continental war, the town supplied very large quantities of shoes to the army, besides sending supplies to Edinburgh and other markets; and it still, though in a noiseless and declining way, com- petes in the art with the brisker and more productive towns of Aj-rahire. Trade in lint and linen yarn was at one time carried on to a great extent, and brought several persons handsome fortunes ; but it long ago became extinct. Manufactures in the departments of beautiful damask linen, of diaper, of muslin, of carpets, and of stockings, have all been sanguinely introduced, flourishingly commenced, and carried on to extinction. A weekly market is held on l-'riday; and annual fairs are held on the Fiiday after the second Tuesday of Janiiary, on the 25th of Febru;\ry, on the third Friday of April, on the second Thursday of June, on the second day of August, and on the first Friday of November. The town has an office of the Commercial Bank, an office of the City of Glasgow IJank, a news-room, a public library, several friendly societies, a total abstinence society, and some other institutions. Liidithgow's earliest charter as a royal burgh, is dated in the reign of Robert II.; but it must have been a royal burgh at an earlier date, for in 1348 it and Lanark were made members of the court of four burghs in lieu of Roxburgh and Berwick, which had been seized by the English. Its council comprises 27 members, including provost, 4 bailies, dean of guild, and treasurer. The magistrates have power of jurisdiction over a mile in every direction beyond the royalty, but practically exercise it only within burgh. The village of Bl.\ckxess [see that article] stands on the territory of the burgh, and is nominally under the jurisdiction of the council, receiving an- nually from their nomination a delegate or bailie. Except in the most trifling police oiTences, the nia- gistiates ai-e relieved from all judicial care, wliether criminal or civil, by the residence within the burgh of the sheriff-substitute. The corporation revenue aiises chiefly from property, from the burgh mills, and fiom the market and bridge customs; and it amounted in 1832 to £710 17s. 6d.,— in 1865 to £444 odds. Water abounds fiom public wells, but ij not distributed into the houses. 1 he town is well- lighted at night with gas, the streets are kept toler- ably clean, and the public peace is, in general, suffi- ciently preserved, all at a very small expense and from the burgh funds. The incorporated trades, eight in number, were early of opinion that their exclusive privileges did no good to themselves, ami were mischievous to society. As at Hawick, Lan- ark, and some other places, the old practice of riding the marches is still observed, and takes place in •lune. The town's seal has on one side the figure of Michael the archangel, — his wings expanded, his foot tre/iding on the belly of a serpent, and his spear piercing the reptile's head. The arms proper allude to some obscure legend respecting a dog found chained to a tree on the islet of the lake, and con-, sist of the figure of a dog tied to a tree with the motto — ' My fruit is fidelity to God and the King.' By act of parliament in 1621, Linlithgow was made ctistodier of the standard lirlot measure, and intrusted with the distribution of copies of it among other burghs; while Stirling was the appointed place of the jug for liquids, Edinburgh of the ell, Perth of the reel, and Lanark of the pound. The firlot for oats atid barley contained 31 Scotch pints, or 3,205i cubic inches, — "and for wheat and pease 21^ pints, or 2,107^ cubic inches; but, since the introduction of the im- perial measures, it is a matter merely of antiquarian curiosity. Linlithgow had once an exclusive right of trade on the coast from the water of Cramond to the mouth of the Avon. Blackness was its port; and there it had warehouses and a custom-house establishment, and carried on a considerable com- merce. Partly through its own decay, and partly through the influence of the family of Hamilton, Borrowstounness carried away its custom-house honours ; and altogether, by successful rivalry, Queensferry took possession of its influence on the coast. So strenuous an opposition did Linlithgow make to the erection of Queensferry into a hurgh, that it wrung by compromise, the hai'd terms from its rival, of the' latter paying annually the sum of 10 merks Scotch, admittin.g the freemen of Linlitli- gow to all its inmiunities without reciprocation, and triving the Linlithgow burgesses through their deau- LINLITHGOW. 341 LINLITHGOW. of-guild the option of purchasingr, before it was im- ' loailcd. half the cargo of every foreian ship which j arrived. Linlithgow unites with Falkirk, Airdrie, ] Huinilton, and Lanark, in sending a member to par- | I lament. Municipal constituency in 1840, 77; in i 1865,122. Parliamentary constituency in 1840,80; ill 1865, 130. Population of the municipal burgh in 18.31, 3,187; in 186'., 3,693. Houses, 325. Popu- iMtiOii of the parliamentary burgh in 1861, 3,843. Houses, 349. Linlithgow probably received its name from the Britons. King Achaius, according to fable and Sibbald, was the founder of the town, and erected on its site a cross which vulgar antiquaries have called King Cay's cross. Fiom the similarity of name, but without any other evidence, the town has been identified with the Liudum of the Romans; and chiefly, if not altogether, on the vague testi- mony of tradition, it is thought to date as high as any existing town in Scotland. Before David L's accession, a chapel appears to have been erected on the promontory now occupied by the church and tlie palace; and during that monarch's reign, he had a castle in the place to overlook a grange which be- longed to him, and to receive his person in the course of his ranging from manor to manor for consumption of tiie stock. But whether the castle occupied the site of the peel afterwards built and rebuilt bv the English, and made the nucleus of the palace, is a point on whicli no document or monument seems to throw any light. David granted to the abbot and canons of Holyrood all the skins of the rams, sheep, and lambs of Iiis demesne of Linlithgow. The place was then the King's town in demesne ; and the reuts and profits, or 'firms,' were let by the King to the community. At the denu'se of Alex- ander IIL, before it had yet obtained a charter, the town was governed by two bailies, John Raebuck and Johu de Mar, who, along with ten of the bur- gesses or principal inhabitants, were compelled, in 1296, to swear fealty to Edward I. The ' firms ' had been mortgaged by Alexander IIL to the King of Norway, and after the former's death, were allowed to run in arrear; and at two difl'erent dates writs of Edward I. were addressed "prepositis de Linlith- gow," requiring the payment respeotively of £59 2s. Id., and of £7 4s. lOd., as arrears to the Norwegian King. In 1334, Edward Baliol transferred to Ed- ward III. the constabulary, the town, and the castle of Linlithgow, as part of the price paid for the as- sistance given him to his short-lived usurpation. In 1336, Robert II. granted to his son-in-law. Sir Wil- liam Douglas, £300 sterling out of the great customs of Linlithgow, Edinburgh, Dundee, and Aljerdeen ; and to other persons he granted various pensions out of the burgh-mails or great customs of Linlith- gow. These grants are evidence that, in an age so uncommercial, the town possessed some trade, and had risen to considerable importance. Under the Regent Albany and James I., Linlithgow appears to have been unfortunate, and was twice burnt, first in 1411, and next in 1424. James II., at his marriage in 1449, settled on his bride, Mary of Gueldres, as her dower, the lordship of Linlithgow and other lands, amounting in value to 10,000 crowns; James III., at his marriage in 1468, to Margaret of Denmark, settled on her, as her dower in the event of his demise, the palace of Linlithgow with its circumjacent territory; and James IV., at iiis marriage in 1503, with Margaret of England, gave her, in dower, tlie whole lordship of Linlithgow, with the palace and its jurisdiction and privileges. In 1517, Stirling and his followers, -who had at- tempted to assassinate Meldrum on the road to Leith, stlzed the palace, at a moment probably when it was very slenderly guarded ; but they were speedily pursued by De la Bastie, the regent's lieutenant, and were beleagured and captured. In 1526 occur- red the battle of Linlithgow, which was designed to rescue James V. 'from the domination of the Earl of Angus, and which led to the slaughter of the Earl of Lennox by Sir James Hamilton, after quarter had been given. Hamilton was rewarded by Angus for his truculent deed with the captaincy of the palace; and afterwards becoming a favourite of James V., he showed the faithlessness and atrocity of his na- ture by .attempts, both in the palace of Linlithgow and in that of Holyrood, to assassinate the King. In 1540, James V., by a special charter, empow- ered the town, for the fiiSt time, to add a provost to their magistracy; and in the same year, while Maiy of Guise, after her marriage festivities had been celebrated in Fife and at Stirling, was delight- ing herself with the beauty and luxuries of Lin- lithgow pal.-ice. Sir David Lindsay's Satire of the three Estates was represented before the Kiug, the Queen, the ladies of the court, and the authorities and common inhabitants of the town, and nppeared, in spite of its utter grossiiess, to please all parties. On the 7th December, 1542, Mary, afterwards Queen of Scotland, was born in the palace ; and as the infant remained many months there with her mother, under exciting public circumstances, the place became the frequent scene of political intxngue. In 1545, a parliament met at Linlithgow on the 1st of October, and again on the 1st and the 19th of December. In 1552, a provincial council of the clergy was held in it. In 1559, the Earl of Argyle, Lord .James Stewart and John Kr.ox came to Lin- lithgow on their celebrated march from Perth to Edinburgh, and demolished the monastic houses. About this period some houses in the town were the property and occasionally the residence of the Duke of Chatelheranlt and other highly distin- guished courtiers. On tlie 23d of January, 1569-70, the Regent Moray, in passing through the town, was shot, in revenge of a private injury, by Hamil- ton of Bothwellhaugh. The house from which the assassin took his aim belonged to Archbishop Hamilton of St. Andrews, and stood on a site now occupied by a plain lumpish tenement; and it had a projecting balcony overlooking a narrow part of' the street, and affording full command of the Regent's person while he moved slowly and on horseback. The murder is the subject of Sir Walter Scott's bal- lad of ' Cadzow-castle:' and the carbine with which it was perpetrated is pieserved at Hamilton-palace. The assassin escaped, fled to France, and remained in voluntary exile. Some nionths after the nuirder, the English army which entered Scotland to re- venge the Regent's death, or readjust the arrange- ments which it had unsettled, bui-nt the Duke of Chatelherault's house in Linlithgow, and threatened to destroy the whole town. The parliament, dur- ing that distracted year, was proposed to be held in Linlithgow; but the Regent Lennox, marching thither in October, prevented the intended meeting. In 1584, the rents both of money and victual of the lordship of Linlithgow were appropriated for sup- porting Blackness-castle. In 1585, a parliament was held in the town for establishing tlie Protestant councillors who had recently placed themselves at the head of James VI. 's government. At the King's mai-riage in 1592, the barony, lands, and palace were, according to former usage, given in dowry to his bride, the Princess Anne of Denmark. In 1596, Linlithgow afforded refuge to the King from the tumult of Edinburgh ; and seven years later, it shared the grief and degradation of the me- tropolis, resulting irom James's accession to the LI^^LITHG OAV-BEIDGE. 342 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. English crown, and his consequent abandonment of his native palaces. In 1617, the Kin;r, in the course of his visit to Scotland, made a progress to Linlithgow; and at his entrance to the town, was met hy James Wiseman, tlic hiirgii pedagogue, en- closed in a plaster figure resembling a lion, and was addressed by him in the following doggerel speech : — " Thrice royal sir, here do I you beseech, AVIio art a lion, to litar a lion's spoecli ; A miracle! for since the days of ^sop. No lion, till those days, a voice dared raise iip To siicli a majesty! Then, king of men. The king of be.ists speaks to tliee from liis den, Who, thougli he now enclosed be in plai.sicr. When lie was free, was Litligow's wise sclioolmastcr." In 1633, Cliarles I., when at Edinburgh, intended to visit Linlithgow, and had tlie palace put in order for his reception, but did not accon)plish his object. In 1646, wlien Edinburgh was scourged by the plague, Linlithgow afforded refuge to the senatus of tlie university, and flung open her palace for tlie session of parlinment. In 1662, on the anniversary of the Restoration, the town signalized itself by so strange an act of succumbency to the Stuarts as was without a parallel even in the excited and tumultuous times in which it occurred, — the burn- ing of the (Solemn League and Covenant, The deed must be regarded, however, rather as a wanton ex- Cression of zeal to which the many were impelled y a few, than as an act authorized by the magis- trates, or approved by the pober portion of the com- munity. The chief actors were Mr, Milne, one of tlie bailies, and Mr. Eamsay, then minister of the parish, a renegade from the cause of the Covenant, trimming in tbe most servile manner for ecclesias- tical promotion. The town gave a sumptuous en- tertainment to James Vil. when in Scotland before his accession to the tlirone; and it is said to have long felt the pressure of tiie debt incurred by getting up, on the occasion, a magnificent display. Dur- ing the rebellion of 1745-6, Linlithgow suffered severely, being then, as we have seen, denuded of the physical attractions, as formerly of the political importance, of its palace. In 1842, amidst an uni- versal turn-out of the inhabitants, as well as a great gathering from the surrounding country. Queen Victoria and Piince Albert, on their way from Perthshire to Edinburgh, passed slowly through Linlithgow, when, it is said, " they looked long and anxiously at what was once one of the noblest of Scotland's royal palaces, and now only a picturesque ruin," Linlithgow gave the title of Earl to the family of Livingstone, also Earls of Callendar, at- tainted in 1716 in consequence of James, the fifth Earl, taking part in the first rebellion, in favour of the dethroned Stuarts. LINLITHGOW-BKIDGE, a village partly in the parish of Muiravonside, Stirlingshire, butchiefl}' in the parish of Linlithgow, Linlithgowshire, It stands at both ends of the bridge over the Avon, on the road from Linlithgow to Falkirk, about a mile west of Linlithgow. The bridge was built about 1650, by Alexander, Earl of Linlithgow; and the customs of it were granted by Charles II.. in 1677, to George, Earl of Linlithgow, A little above it is the viaduct of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway over the Avon, with 20 arches of beautiful masonry, some of them upwards of 90 feet high. Adjacent to the village is a large calico-printing establish- ment, which affords employment to a good number of the inhabitants. Population of the Stirlingshire portion, 140 ; of the Linlithgowshire portion, 420, Houses in the Stiriingshire portion, 36; in the Lin- lithgowshire portion, 87. LINLITHGOWSHIRE, or Wkst Lothian, a county lying along the south side of the frith of Forth, nearly midway between the German ocean and the frith of Clyde. Its outline, in a general view, is triangular, with sides facing the north, the south-east, and the west. The northern side is nearly straight in outline, but suffers intrusions each about 1^ mile deep, upon both its angles; the south-west side is indented by the paiish of Mid- Calder 2 miles by li; and the west side has an in- dentation of a square, 1i mile deep, along the north side of Blaiimuckhill-burn, — a projection, imme- diately north of this, 3i miles long and 2^ broad, — and again an indentation nearly semicircular, 4f miles along the chord, and 2J miles deep. Tlie county is hounded on tlic north by the frith of I'orth, wliich divides it from the detached part of Perthshire and from Fifeshire ; on the south-east, except at the indentation fiom Mid-Calder, by the river Almond and its tributary Briech-water, which divide it from Edinburghshire ; and on the west by Blairmuckhill-burn, Barbachlaw-bniTi, Calder- water, and artificial lines which divide it from Lan- arkshire, and mainly by Avon-water, and its tribu- tary Polness-burn, which divide it from Stirling- shire. Measuring in straight lines, it extends on the north side 15 miles; on the south-east side 20^ ; and on the west side l^J. But, in consequence of the peculiar outline of the west side, the south-west half of the county is nearly a parallelogram 10^ miles by 7i, while the other half is very nearly a legular isosceles triangle, the longest side lying along the Forth. The area, according to Arm- strong's map of the Lothians, is only 112 square miles, or 71,680 statute acres; but, according to the Ordnance survey, it is 127 square miles or 81,113 statute acres. The surface, though almost all champaign, is waving and beautifully diversified, nowhere subsid- ing over more than a very small space into flatness. Its eminences, %vith a few gentle exceptions, are rising grounds, knolls, elongated hillocks, and in- considerable hills; and all, while they impart va- riety and picturesqueness to the landscape, very trivially subtract from the value of the ground, either bearing aloft arrays of thriving plantation, or affording verdant and good pasturage, or yielding their sides and their summits to the dominion of the plough. The most remarkable of them form a range or rather line of summits from Bowden, on the march of Torphichen and Linlithgow parishes, obliquely south-eastward through the middle of the county. Cairn-maple, the most prominent summit of the line, rising up on the march between the parislies of Torphichen and Bathgate, has an alti- tude of 1,498 feet above the level of the sea. The Kipps-bills, the Knock-hills, and the Drumcross- liills, all form conspicuous parts of this lange, but do not rise to any gi'cat elevation. Cocklerue, or Cuckold le Roi, near its west end, is one of its prin- cipal summits, yet attains a height of only 500 feet, ^lore noticeable eminences, because delightfully picturesque, are variously distributed throughout the northern parts of the county along the Forth. The most conspicuous are Mons-bill, Craigie-hill, and Dundas-hill in Dalmeny, Craigton-hill and Binns-hill in Abercom, and Irongarth in the parish of Linlithgow, All the heights of the county com- mand uncommonly varied and pleasing views of the Lothians, — of Stirlingshire, — of the fir.e expanse of the Forth, with its shores receding in gentle and undulating slopes, sprinkled with the seats of tbe nobility and gentry, and richly ornamented with wood, — of the varied and fine southern exposure of Fifeshire, — and of dimly -seen mountain -ranges LINLITHGOWSHIRE. 343 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. forming a serrated sky-line in the far perspective. Tlie middle and western districts of the county are the most hilly; the northern are the most beautiful, and become at intervals nearly luscious in their sweetness; the southern are the most tame and least valuable, eontaininnc much moorland and morass, and swelling into few considerable or plea- smt rising grounds. The principal streams of the county are the Al- mond, across its southern division and along its south-eastern boundary, and the Avon 12 miles along its western boundary. Logie-water, a tribu- tary of the Avon in Torphichen parish, drains much of the western division, through its head- waters, B:\rbauclilaw-buni and Ballencriefi'-water. Brox- burn, and several smaller streamlets, drain the east- ern division, and run into the Ahnond. Nether- mill-burn, Dolphinston-burn, and some tiny brooks, i-un northward to the Forth. The streams are suf- ticient for the purposes of draining and irrigation, and enrich the county with much water-power for the driving of machinery; but they are wholly un- interesting to the angler, the operations of ngricul- ture and manufacture having forced the finny tribes from their haunts. The only lakes are one on the boundary between Dalmeny and Kirkliston, Loch- coat in Torphichen, and Linlithgow-loch in the parish of Linlithgow. The Forth, both as an ob- ject of ornament and as a contributor of profit, is of great importance to the county, cheering the inha- bitants by its changeful phases of beauty, and sup- plying fish for food, sites for manufactoi'ies, and harbours for traffic. On the beach at the western extremity, 2,000 acres are left dry at every reflux of the tide; but except at this point, the coast, for the most part, rises suddenly into a ridge adorned by culture and plantations. The Forth, along the whole, displays a singular variety of aspects ; and, washing or forming hills and promontories, windinjr bays and mimic estuaries, lofty shores, cultivated fields, and brilliant mansions and parks, takes the ai)pearance of a great lake, a noble river, or a broad sea, according to the points of view in which it is seen. Medicinal springs exist near the village of 'J'orphichen, on the estate of Kipps in the same parish, near Carubber-house in the parish of Lin- lithgow, near the chui'ch of Ecclesmachan, and in the vicinity of Boi'rowstounness. Linlithgowshire abounds with the most useful minerals. Coal, in a workable state, exists in al- most every district, and was well-known, and gen- erally worked, so early as during the reign of Alex- ander III. A coal mine at Borrowstounness was worked beneath tlie sea half-way across the frith, and had a principal outlet or shaft half-a-mile fiom the sliore at a moat or quay in 12 feet depth of water. Tiie average annual coal-produce of the county, about 35 years ago, was 44,000 tons; but it has since then been greatly increased. Limestone everywhere abounds, and is manufactured at great profit, and distributed to general advantage. Free- stone seems to stretch beneath the whole county ; and, for the most part, but especially toward the coast, it is of excellent quality. Several kinds of trap-rock abound in the hills. A basaltic rock, with many of its pillars in the form of well-de- fined regular prisms, and the rest columnar masses separated by grooves, forms an almost perpendi- cular breastwork 60 or 70 feet high, and 750 feet long, on the sonth side of Dundas-bill in the paiish r)f Dalmeny. Shell-marl lies athw^art a bog of about y acres near the foot of the basaltic colonnade, and occurs also in Linlithgow-loch, and in the parishes of Abercorn and Uphall. L'onstone abounds in Borrowstounness, Torphichen, Bathgate, Abercorn, and probably other parishes. Veins of silver were formerly worked in the parishes of Bathgate and Linlithgow, but eventually became either uncom- pensating, or exhausted. Fuller's earth, potter's clay, brick clay, and red chalk are found in the parish of Uphall. The county, though aggregately rich in its agri- cultural capabilities, has nearly all varieties of soil, from bad to the best. Of the whole area, according to proximate calculation, 19,900 acres are clay, either of prime carse kind, or otherwise of good quality; 22,700 are clay, on a cold bottom; 9,500 are loam; 9.500 are light gravel and sand; 14,000 are moorland and high rocky ground; 1.500 are moss; and the remaining 460 are occupied by lakes and liveis. Owing to the general lowness of the county, its nearness to the Forth, and the preva- lence of south-west winds, its climate is, in general, temperate as to heat, and moderately dry, neither very cold nor very sultry, characterized rather by gentle showers than by violent rains, and is alto- gether, if not prime, at least of the second-rate character enjoyed in the kingdom. During the Scoto-Saxon period, a profusion of natural wood seems eveiy where to have waved over the surface; and this, in an age when pasturage formed the prime object of attention to the exclusion or depre- ciation of tillage, must have been quite congenial to the interests of husbandry. An expanse of natural wood, 70 acres in extent, still exists near Kinneil house on tlie Forth. During very many years past, the landowners have paid great attention to plant- ing, and, besides richly embellishing the lower grounds, have spread out expanses of thriving wood on the moorland heights. All the area, too, is, with fractional exceptions, enclosed by almost all the variety of stone and hedge fences which inge- nuity has contrived. David I. was, in his day, the greatest farmer in West as well as in iFid-Lothian ; was probably the introducer, or at least the improver, of hoiticul- ture; and certainly, on his grange at Linlithgow, practised husbandry with a skill and success which his barons could not excel, and which, however in- cognizant of the true pi-inciples of agriculture, must have had benign results at the midnight hour of the dark ages. Yet, while the cultivators were almost all villevns who laboured, not for their own profit, but for the benefit of others, agriculture could not be carried on with much amelioration to its art. Throughout the Scoto-Saxon period, and for ages afterwards, every manor had its village, its mill, its kiln, its malthouse, and its common for the general use of the villagers. The husbandmen used oxen in their ploughs and waggons ; they cultivated the same grain; they pastured the same beasts; they aimed at the same profits. Yet, througliout the Scoto-Saxon period, especially during the peaceful reign of Alexander IIL, there was a slow progress of melioration, similar in its causes and character to that experienced in Berwickshiie, Haddingtonshire, and Edinburghshire. But the lancorous war of 70 years which followed the demise of Alexander IIL plunged the whole county into ruin. The charters of the period are crowded with records of devasta- tion. Domestic feuds were to the full as destruc- tive as foreign inroads. Daiing the feud between Earl Douglas and Crichton, the Chancellor, for ex- ample, Crichton. in 1445, ravaged the Earl's manor of Abercorn, and, among other waste, drove away a race of mares, which he had brought from Flan- ders. All the intercourses of life were oppressive, the strong constantly overpowering the weak. The art of cultivating the ground, with the exception that gardening became general in the reign oi LtNTLITHGOWSHIRE. 344 LINLlTHGOWSrilRE. James VI., appears to have helplessly weltered under the blows inflicted on it till about the close of the first quarter of last centiirv. 'Jlie formation of the society of improvers in 1723 probably gave the first impulse to Linlith<;owsliire, as to other coun- ties. A sale of manuie, at one shilling a bushel, by one Higgins and his copartners at Cutfabouts, near IJorrowstounness, in 172,5, seems an indication of returning enterprize. John, Earl of Stair, began, in 1728, to introduce, from his residence in the parish of Kirkliston, new maxims of husbandry, and new modes of cultivation ; he was the first who practised the horse- homing husbandry; he sowed artificial grasses; and he cultivated turnips, cab- bages, and carrots by the plough. Charles, first Earl of Hopetoun, imitated and even excelled the illustrious Eirl of Stair; but they both died in the decade of 1740, before their plans were matured, or their principles duly appreciated. About 25 years before the close of the century, a race of projectors arose who went beyond the noblemen in usefulness, — .some practical farmers, who, with clear heads, enterprising hearts, and sufiicier.t capital, profes- sionally undertook to rent farms and estates with design to improve them, and then, for an adequate profit, relinquished them to farmers who had less skill but were willing to learn. The system of agriculture now pursued is, in all respects, similar to that of the other Lothians. In 1854, the number of landowners in Linlith- gowshire was 164; and the old valued rental, in Scotch money, of each of 54 of them, was not above £50, — of 24, not above £100,— of 35, not above £200, —of 22, not above £500,— of 13, not above £1,000, —of 10 not above £2,000,— of 3, not above £5,000, — of 1, not above £10,000, — and of 1, upwards of £10,000. The number of occupiers of land paying each a rent of less than £10 sterling is 34. Most farms have an extent of from 70 to 200 acres ; but some rise to 300 acres, while others compi-ehend only 50 acres or less. The farm-steads, generally, are in a creditable and neat condition. In 1854, according to the statistics obtained for the Board of Trade, by the Highland and Agricultural Society, tlie number of imperial acres under wheat was 2,850; under barley, 4,653^; under oats, 12,883|; under rye, 35|; ur.der here, 5J; under beans, 1,763|; "under pease, 22f ; under vetches. 402^; un- der turnips, 4,856f; under potatoes, 1,627J; under mangel-wurzel, 33t; under carrots, 6^; under cab- bage, lOf; under flax, 187|; under turnip-seed, 57; in bare fallow, 670; in grass in the rotation of the farm, 20,358; in permanent pasture, 8,567^; in irrigated meadow, 304; in sheep-walks, 3,163; un- der wood, 8,321 J; in a waste condition, 2,594; and in house-steads, roads, fences, &c , 1,587. The live stock comprised 2,223 horses, 3,489 milch cows, 1,932 calves, 5,563 other bovine cattle, 8,056 ewes, gimmers, and ewe-hoggs. 6,183 tups, wethers, and wether-hoggs, and 2,093. swine. The estimated gross pi-oduce of the chief crops in 1854, was 89,775 bushels of wheat, 180,323 bushels of barley, 470,256 l)ushels of oats. 168 bushels of here, 50,707 bushels of beans, 73,336 tons of turnips, and 5,532 tons of potatoes; and the estimated average produce per imperial acre was 3U bushels of wheat, 38| bushels of barley, 36i bushels of oats, 32 bushels of here, 28| bushels o'f beans, 15 tons and 2 cwt. of turnips, and 3 tons 8 cwt. of potatoes. Tiie average fiar prices in the years 1848-1854 were 47s. 5fd. for wheat, 28s. 5d. for barley, 20s. 9|-d. for oats, 34s. 3d. for pease, 51s. 5f d. for malt, and 16s. Ofd. for oatmeal. Considering its rich facilities as to coal, useful minerals, central position, and ample means of com- nmnication by both land and sea, Einlithgowsliire is ]ioor in manufactures. A cotton-mill and a flax- mill at lilackburn, some tanneries and shoe-making establishments at Linlithgow, a bleachficld and a paper-mill on the Avon, the ironworks and pottery of Boriowstounness, a soap- making establishment at Queensferry, about 540 hand-looms at Bathgate and Whitburn, kept in motion by the manufactur- ers of Glasgow, small ship-building yards, and two or three distilleries and breweries, constitute nearly the wholi! amount of outward manufacturing dis- play. The traffic in coal is very extensive, and employs more persons than any thing else except agriculture; the traffic in freestone and iron is also of some imi)ortance ; but traffic in all other depart- ments combined is very inconsiderable. The county is traversed by all the three great roads from Edin- burgh to Glasgow, by a great number of subordi- nate roads, by the Union canal, by the Edinburgh and Ghisgow railway, by the Bathgate 1)ranch rail- way, and by the Slamannan and Borrowstounness portions of the Monkland system of railway. The royal burghs of the county are Linlithgow and Queensferry. Its seaports are Borrowstounness, Queensferry, and Blackness. Its other towns and principal villages are Bathgate. AMiitburn, Black- burn, Bro.xburn, Kirkliston, Linlitbgow-Bridge, l?ridgeness, Cuffabouts, Grangepins, Muirhouses, Newton of Abercorn, Philipston, Dalmeny, Winch- burgh, Uphall, Ecclesmachan. Blackridge, Tor- phichen, Armadale, Longridge, and Livingstone. Among the principal mansions are Kinnel-house. the Duke of Hamilton ; Ilopetoun-house, the Earl of Hopetoun ; Dahneny-park, the Earl of Koseherry ; Kirkhill and Amondell, the Earl of Buchan ; Binns- house, Sir W. C. C. Dalzell, Bart. ; Polkemmet, Sir William Baillie, Bart. ; Wall-house, Andrew Gil- Ion, Esq.; Grange-house, Henry Cadell, Esq.; Car- riden-house. Admiral Sir James Hope; Houston- house. Norman Shairp, Esq.; and Craigie-hall, W. E. Hope Vere, Esq. Linlithgowshire sends one member to parliament. Constituency in 1839, 702; in 1865, 831. The sheriff and commissary courts are held at Linlith- gow every Tuesday and Friday during session. The sheriff small debt ordinary court is held at Linlith- gow every Friday. The sheriff small debt circuit court is held at Bathgate on the third Wednesday of January, April, July, and October. The justice of peace small debt court is held on the first and third Tuesday of every month. Tlie court of quarter sessions is held on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August, and on the last Tuesday of Au- gust. The number of committals for crime, in the year, within the county, was 37 in the average of 1836—1840, 83 in the average of 1841—1845, 82 in the average of 1846 — 1850, and 73 in the average of 1851 — 1860. The sums paid for expenses of crimi- n.al prosecutions in the years 1846 — 1852 varied from £81 1 to £1,487 in the year. The total number of persons confined in the jail of Linlithgow within the year ending 30th June 1860, was 157; the average duration of the confinement of each was 39 days; and the net cost of their confinement per head, after deducting earnings, was £19 7s. lid. All the parishes of the county, except one, are as- sessed for the poor; and a combination jioor-house for 8 of the parishes was built in 1855. The num- ber of registered poor in the year 1852-3 was 1,061; in the year 1863-4, 1,078." The number of casual poor in 1852-3, was 726; in 1863-4, 1,325. The sum expended on the registered poor in 1852- 3 was £4,684; in 1863-4, £6,799. The sum ex- pended on the casual poor in 1852-3 was £591; in 1863-4, £331. The assessment for prisons in LINLITHGOWSHIRE. 345 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. 1855 was £5-t0 lis. 101., aiiil tor roj^ue-inoney, £750. The valued rental in 1674 was £75,018 Scots ; tlie animal value of real property, as assessed in 1849, was £122, 242; and as assessed in 1865-6, ex- clusive of tlie value of railways and canals, was £163,593. Population in 1801", 17,844; in 1811, 19,451; in 1821, 22,685; in 1831,23.291; in 1841, 26,872; in 1861, 38.645. Males in 1861, 19.868; fe- males, 18,777. Inhabited houses in 1861,5,392; un- inhabited, 166 ; building, 27. There are in Linlithf^ovvshire 12 entire parishes, and part of 2 other parishes. One of the parts is in the presbytery of E liuburgh ; but the other part, and all the entire parishes, are in the presbytery of Linlithgow, wliicU also comprises 2 parishes of Edin- burghshire, and 5 parishes of Stirliugsliire ; and the whole are in the s\aiod of Lothian and Tweeddxle. In 1851, *he number of places of worship within the county was 37 ; of whic'.i 12 belonged to tlie Established chui'ch, 11 to the Free church, 6 to the United Presbyterian church, 2 to the Original Se- cession church, 2 to the Independents, 2 to the Evangelical Union, 1 to the Mornionites, and 1 to an isolated congregation. The number of sittings in 8 of the Established places of worship was 4,690 ; in 8 of the Free church places of worship, 2,675; in 5 of the United Presbyterian places of worship, 2.653; in the 2 Original Secessio i meeting-houses, 775; in the 2 Independent chapels, 590; in the 2 Evangelical Union chapels, 560 ; in the Mormonite place of worship, 100. The maximum attendance on the census Sabbath, at 6 of tiie Established places of worship, was 1,639; at 9 of the Free church places of worship, 1,950; at 5 of the United Presbyterian places of worship, l,Sv); at the 2 Ori- ginal Secession meeting-houses, 195; at 1 of the Independent chapels, 100; at the 2 Evangelical Union chapels, 182 ; at the Mormonite place of worship, 35; and at the isolate 1 congregation's pi ice of worship, 11. There were in 1851, in Lin- lichgowshire, 34 public day-sehools, attended by 1.731 males and 1,302 females, — 16 private day- schools, attended by 376 males and 438 females, — 10 evening-schools for adults, attended by 183 males and 61 females, — and 51 S\bbath-schools, at- tended by 1,142 males and 1,423 females. A Culdee establishment was organized at Aber- corn about the year 650 ; and this, in 684, became the seat of the short-lived bisliopric of the Plcts. Linlithgowshire was for several generations part of the diocese of Lindisfarne, and was afterwards com- prehendei in that of St. Andrews. The ancierit deaconry of Linlithgow had probably the same limits as tlie modern presbytery, and, at all events, in- cluded not only the whole county itself, but several pii'ishes in Stirlingshire and Edinburghshire. At Kirkliston the bishop of St. Andrews had a sort of sovereignty under the King's grant, extending to all the lands of the see south of the Forth. During the short-lived Protestant bishopric of Edinburgh, Linlithgowshire was included in its territory. Though the knights of St. John had their seat at Torphichen, there were anciently in the county few religious houses. Two monasteries and a hospi- tiuin at Linlithgow, and a Carmelite convent near Qneensferry, were the chief. SeeToRPHiciiBN. The seal of the presbytery of Linlithgow, composed of brass, and larger than a crown-piece, was discovere I about 70 years ago in an ol I repisitory. Enccraved round it are the words, ' Sigillum presbeterii Lin- lichovo ;' and in the centre of it arc a legend, some decorations, and the date 1583. At the Christian epoch, L'nlithgowshire was in- habited by the British tribe of the Gadeni. Bit its eivil history, so far as peculiar to itself, has aLuost all been rapidly sketched in our artiLdes on Liidith gowand Blackness. Cairns and sepulchral tumuli, the monuments of the more ancient inhabitants, exist on the Loch-coat hills, on the Forth near Barn- bougle-cistle, in the vicinity of the village of Kirk- liston, and on the south bank of the Almond at Livingstone. Remarkable standing-stones, Druidi- cal or monumental, occur in the wood of Abercorn, in the vicinity of Bathgate, and in the parish of Torphichen. Vestigas of British forts exist on Cuckold le Roi hill in Linlithgow, on Bowden-hill in Torphichen, ami on Cairnpaple-hill and Binn.s- hill, south-eastward in the Eowden range. Agricola, after conquering the Lothians, passed, in tiic year 83, from Can-iden to tlie opposite shore of the Forth in search of the Horestii. Twenty years later was constructe I from Carrideu to the Clyde, Antoninus' wall: which see. From the Roman station at Cramond, a Roman road proceeded by Barnbougle- hill, and across Eeklin moor, where its remains continue distinct, westward to the end of the wall at Cirriden. Roman towers were reared along the Forth, but cannot now be traced. Vestiges of a small Roman camp occur a little east of Abercorn. Edwin, who assumed the Northumbrian sceptre in the year 617, stretched his jurisdiction from the Humber to the Avon, and laid the foundation of a power over even the northern extremity of this king- dom which occasioned Linlithgowshire, in common with the other Lothians, to be known to Kenneth, the son of Alpin, and the leader of the Scots to the conquest of the country, by the name of Saxonia. The chief strengths of the ages succeeding the Seottish conquests, are the peel, afterwards enlarged or re-elified into the palace, of Linlithgow, the peel of Livingstone, the square tower of Newyearfield, the castles of Blackness, Barnbougle, Kinneil, Aber- corn, Niddrie, Mannerston, and Bridge-house, ves- tiges of a castle which give a retreat to Walter Steward of Scotland, in a morass near Bathgate, the tower-house of Meidhope, Castlelyon below Kin- neil-castle, and now overflowed by the frith, the tower of Torphichen, and a ruined baronial resi- dence at West Binny. Existing peerages of the county are Hopetoun, Toi-phichen, and Aliercorii, and extinct ones are Livingstone and Linlithgow. West Lothian first appears on record as a sheriff- dom or shire, in the reign of Malcolm IV.; it con- tinued to be so in full power during the long reign of William the Lion, and nominally, though the sheriffs passed away, till the accession of Robert Bruce. The district now became a constabulary, and remained under this subordinate I'orm till pro- bahlv the reign of James I. or James II. West Lothian was again in undoubted possession of the honours of a sheriffdom in the reign of James III., though when or how it reacquired them are points not known. In the progress of weakness and dis- traction, the ofiice of sheriff became liereditary. In 1600, it was granted to James Hamilton, the eldest son of Claude, Lord Paisley, and to his heirs; and soon after the Restoration, it was given hereditarily to .John Hope of Hopetoun, the ancestor of the Earls of Hopetoun. At the abolition of here.litary juris- dictions in 1747. the Earl of Hopetoun claimed as compensation £3,000 for the sheriffdom of Linlith- gow, and for the sheriffwick of Bathgate, the re- gality of St. Andrews at Kirkliston, the bailiary of Crawfordmuir, and the regality of Kirkheugh. Slims which made a total of £7,500, and was allowed £4.569. Kirkliston and other lands were a regality with an attached bailiary. Bathgate was long a barony, and afterwards became a separate sheriff- wick." Torphichen was a regality first of the knight.s of St. John, and next of the Lords Torphichen. LIXNIIE. 34G LINTON. Other reijaluic's were Kiniieil under the Duke of Ilainilton, Philipston first under the monks ofCul- ross, and afterwards under the Earl of Stair, and Brighouse and Ogleface under the Earl of Linlith- gow. Linlithjow was a liereditary royal Lailiary belonging, like the last-named rejality, to the Lin- lithgow family. Baronial jurisdictions were Aber- corn, Livingstone, Carabber, Dalnieny, Barnbougle, and Strathbrock. Tliese various jurisdictions, so- licited by the ambition, and granted by the impo- licy, of former times, confounded rather tlian pro- moted the justice of Linlitligowshire, and were long prostituted to the interests of individuals rather than dedicated to general convenience. LINN. See Lin. LINN OF DESKFORD. See De^kford. LINNDEAN. See Lisdeax. LIXXHE (Locii). an ami of the sea, deflecting from the Sound of Mull, opposite the eastern extre- mity of the island of Mull, and projecting north- eastward between the district of Appin on the right, and the districts of Morvern and Ardgonr on the left, in Argyleshire. It is about 22 mil s in lengtii, and about 5 miles in average breadth. It contains the island of Lismore, the island of Shuna, and some smaller islands. It extends nearly on a line with the southern or broader part of the Sound of Mull. Its junction with that part of the sound sends off the narrow part of the sound to the north- west, and Loch-Etive to the east- north-east. Its south-east side, opposite the upper part of Lismore, sends off Loch-Creran. Its head washes the south- western extremity of Lochaber, in Inverness-shire, and forks into Locb-Eil toward the north-east, and Loch-Leven toward the east, both of which lie on the boundary between Argyleshire and Inverness- shire. But the part of Loch-Eil, so long as on that boundary, or before suddenly deflecting westward in the neighbourhood of Fort William, is often re- garded as part of Loch-Linuhe, so as to share its name. LINNHE- WATER, a mountain streamlet, of brief course, but brilliant current, flowing into the head of Loch-Long, on the boundary between Ar- gyleshire and Dumbartonshire. "LIN'NHOUSE. See LiNHousE. LIN'NMILL-BURN, a streamlet running on the boundary between Dalmeny and Abercorn, to the fritii of Forth, in Linlithgowshire. It makes a waterfall of 75 feet in leap over a whin-rock preci- pice, in the neiiihbourhood of Springfield. LIXTALEE.' See Jedburgh. LIXTHILL. See Eyemouth and Lili.iesleaf. LIXTOX, a parish, containing the post-oflice village of West Linton and the village of Carlops, in the north- west of Peebles-shire. It is bounded by the counties of Lanark and Edinburgh, and by the parishes of Xewlands and Kirkurd. Its length southward is 10^ miles, and its greatest breadth is 7J miles. The North Esk rises at its northern extremity, nins 4 miles south-eastward along its north-eastern boundary, receives from within it the pretty little tribute of Carlops burn, and, just when entering Edinl)urghshire, partly washes, partly forms the classic scenery of Habbie's Howe: see that article. Medwin-water flows 3f miles along the western boundary to Garvaldfoot, there very curiously splits itself into two streams, the larger one, which retains the name of the Medwin, de- bouching into Lanarkshire to fall eventually into the Clyde, and the smaller one running 4i miles farther along the boundary, to assume the name of the Tai'th, and to join the Lyne in a progress to the Tweed. Lyne-water rises on the west side of Weather-law, within half-a-mile of the source of the Xorth-Esk, and flows of miles south-eastward through the interior of the parish, and 2' miles southward along its eastern boundary. Numerous tributaries of the Lyne drain the sides of the parish; but the most considerable of them is West-water, a streamlet 4^ miles long, running obliquely throutrh the interior to the Lyne's right bank. Slipperfield- loch, 1:^ mile west of the mouth of West-water, measures about li mile in circumference. Around it on all sides stretches an expanse of heathy moor, 2.000 or 2. .500 acres in extent, some small parts of which have been reclaimed. Three-fourths of the entire area of the parish are hilly or mountainous, — cither heathy upland of little value, or good hill- pastnrc. In the north-east comer is a moor similar to that around Slippei-field-loch, but smaller in ex- tent. Beautiful stripes of ai-able land stretch along the Lyne, and the lower part of the North Esk. The soil on the low grounds of the Esk is clay I snperinctnnbent on limestone, and on other ploughed grounds is either a sandy loam upon a gravelly bottom, remarkably well suited to the turnip and the potato, or a reclaimed and progressively im- proving moss. The aggregate of ploughed land is about 4.000 acres, and of land under wood about 400 acres. The parish is famous for its variety of the Ciieviot breed of sheep. Excellent white freestone is worked at Deepsykehead and at Spittlehaugii, and is carried from the former place to every part of Peebles-shire. Coal is mined at Carlops, at Coalyburn, and at Harlamuir. Limestone is burnt at Carlops, and at Whitefield, and occurs also, of ex- cellent quality, at Spittlehaugii and at Badensgill. Lead has been repeatedly but vainly searched lor in the hill called Leadlaw. Fullers earth occurs in a small seam below Bridgehouse on the Lyne. Blue marl lies in a stratum two feet thick above the lime-rocks of Carlops and Spittlehaugh. Many pebbles are found of great beauty, and similar in kind to the Cairngorm stone. A mineral spring, called Heaven-aqua well, somewhat resembling the spa of Tunbridge, bubbles up to the north of Linton village. There are 22 landowners Avith a rental of upwards of £100; and two of them are resident. Assessed property in J 860, £9,263. Estimated value of raw produce in 1834, £14.000. Tlic road from Edinburgh to Biggar traverses the parish south-westward, nearly through its middle ; and a branch road strikes off thence, down the Lyne to- ward Moftat and Peebles. The village of Linton, or West Linton, stands on the latter road, on the Lyne, 11 miles north-north-east of Biggar, and 16^ south-south-west of Edinburgh. It is in-egularly built, and has an antique and curious appearance, a considerable proportion of the houses presenting their gables to the street. Most of its inhabitants aie weavers, or traders dependent on its market. Though finely situated for a woollen manufacture, lying in the Vicinity of coal, on a stream of much water-power, and in the midst of a sheep country, its manutactuiing connexion is solely the weaving of cotton fabiics for houses in Glasgow. It has been celebrated from time immemorial for its sheep markets, four of which used to be held in the year; but now all the business, though very great, is done on the last Tuesday of June. The village is a burgh-of-regality uiider the Earl of Wemyss. Pen- nicuick, in his Poetical Address, in 1689, to the Prince of Oransre, calls it '• the submetropolitan of Tweeddale." The village gives the title of Baron to the Earl of Traquair. Population of the village, 512, Population of the parish in 1831, 1,577; iu 18(31. 1,534. Houses, 288. This parish is in the presbytery of Peebles, and svnod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Karl LINTON. 347 LINTON. of Wemyss. Stipend, £232 14s. lid.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £115 7s. Schoolmaster's salary, £4:5, witli £35 for retired sclioolmaster, and other emoluments. Tlie parish church was built in 1781. Tliere is a Free church pieacliing-station at Carlops, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £114 3s. 3d. There is an United Preshyterian church at the village of Linton. The parish, or kirk-town, has its name from a linn or the Lyne, and anciently had the adjunct to that name of Roderick. The church of Linton-Koderick, from the reign of David I. till the Reformation, was a vicarage under tlie monks of Kelso. In the 13th century, a chap- lainr\', dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was esta- blished at Ingliston, in the south-west comer of the parish. A chapel, attached to an hospital, anciently stood on the Lj'ne, at a place to which it gave the name of Chapel-hill. UINTON, a parish on the north-east border of Roxburghshire. It is bounded on the north-noith- east by England, and on other sides by the parishes of Yetholm, Morebattle, Eckford, and Sprouston. Its length south-south-westward is 6J miles; and its breadth varies from H to 2J miles. Its post- town is Kelso. 6 miles to the nortii-west; though Yetholm to the east, and especially Morebattle to the south, are much nearer. Kail-water forms the boTindary-line for a mile on the south, and a small tributary of that stream for 3^ miles on the west. The south-west corner is a beautiful level, 300 acres in extent, rising only a few inches above the Kail, subject to inundations, and forming part of a lovelv plain of 12,000 or 15,000 acres, surrounded on all sides by green and arable ascents, and by mansions and parks which delight, not less by their local as- sociations with Allan Ramsay, Thomson, and other names, than by their fine landscape features. In the Linton part of the valley lay Linton-loch. nearly circular, and about 30 acres in area, now so drained as to exhibit the appearance of a green morass. Near the other end of the parish is Hoselaw-locb, a beautiful oblong sheet of water, about 30 acres in area, sending off a little streamlet into England to become tributary there to Bowmont-watei-. About 1.750 acres are moss or otherwise waste land. The highest giound is Linton-hill, on the south-east boundary; and the surf ice thence to the valley of the Kail is an undulating descent. Along the north-west verge is an inteiTupted line of low heights, the principal of which are Blakelaw, Hose- law, and Kiplaw; and parallel to it along the north-east boundary, runs a low ridge called the Graden-hills. Swells and I'ising-grounds also di- versify the surface of the interior. All the emi- nences, excepting the summit of Linton-hill, are wholly arable; and the level and low grounds, ex- cepting 70 or 80 acres under plantation, and the large expanses of moss, are in a state of ricli culti- vation. The soil, on the plain of the south-west corner, is partly a strong retentive clay, and partly a deep loam superincumbent on sand or gravel; and in other districts it consists variously or mi.xedly of clay, loam, sand, and gravel. Whinstone abounds, and occasionally encloses seams of rock-crystal. Sandstone is quarried at Frogden. Coal exists in thin seams, but does not compensate mining. Tlie principal landowners are Elliot of Clifton, Wauchope of Niddry-Marsliall. and Oliver of Bl.ikclaw. As- sessed property in 1864, £7,717 12s. 3d. Estimated value of raw produce in 1834, £14,375. The ancient fortalice or tower of Linton, the resi- dence of the ancestors of the noble family of Somer- ville till near the end of the 14th century, stood on an eminence, now covered with trees, near the church. It is almost entirely obliterated, but ap- j pears, from the features of its site, to have been a place of considerable strength. It bore the brunt of much of the border conflict during the wars of the succession; and, in the reign of Henry VIII., it was first dilapidated bv the warden of tlie English marches, and next utterly destroyed by the Eail of Surrey. The parish, both from lying immediately on the Border, and from its being 'pu.-rt of what wei"e anciently called 'the dry marciies,' and one of the most facile thoroughfares between the kingdom.^., was peculiarly exposed to the rough contacts of the Border wars. Graden-place, | of a mile south-west of Hoselaw-locb, shows traces of a fortalice sur- rounded by a moat, and was the seat of the Kerrs of Graden, little inferior in the coaise fame of Border warfare to their namesakes of Fernihiist. On the summits of various rising grounds are remains of circular encampments. Oa the farm of Frogden is a spot called the ' tryst,' marked by several upright stones, anciently the place of rendezvous for partit-s about to make a foray into England. A narrow opening between two heights, along the side of Linton-loch, bears marks of having been fortified, was defended by the rising-ground of artificial formation which now bears aloft the parish church, and seems to have been viewed as a pass or as a fitvourable point for standing at bay against a pur- suing foe. Ill various localities tumuli abound, en- closing earthen urns with human bones ; and, in one place, they are so numerous as to identify the spot with the scene of some extensively murderous onslaught. Linton and Hoselaw, once villages of note, have become extinct. The parish is traversed by the road from Kelso to Yetholm, and lies within easy distance of the Kelso and Sprouston stations of the Noi til-Eastern railway. Population in 1831, 462 ; in 1861, 608. Houses', 102. This parish is in the presbytery of Kelso, and synod of ]S[erse and Teviotdale. Patron, Elliot of Clifton. Stipend, £257 lis. 6d. ; glebe, £20. Un- appropriated teinds, £290 13s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary, is now £45, with £13 fees, and £7 other emoluments. The parish church is an old building, repaired about 67 years ago, and containing I. sittings. There was anciently a chapel at Hose- law. Mr. Dawson, the celebrated agricultural im- prover, was a farmer at Frogden ; and Mr. Thor as Pringle. the poet, was a native. LINTON (East), a post-office village in the parish of Prestonkirk, Haddingtonshire. It stands on the river Tyne, on the road from Edinburgh to London, adjacent to a station of the North British railway, 5:t miles east-north-enst of Haddington, 5| west of Dixnbar, 6J south-south-east of North Ber- wick, and 23} by railway east by north of Edin- burgh. The river Tyne, while STi«eping past it, falls into a large, deep linn, whence arose the name of Linton ; and that name, without the prefix of East, was given to the parish of Prestonkirk fiom the earliest record till the Reformation. A grand viaduct of the North British railway crosses the Tvne here, and is the finest work on the line ex- cepting only the viaduct of DungJas. The village of Linton is a prosperous place, the seat of a con- siderable amount of provincial, rural trade, and has a corn-market, recently established, and of rising character. Here are an office of the National bank, a subscription library, several schools, an United Pi-esbyterian church, and a Free church ; and in the neighbourhood is the parish church of Preston- kirk. The village was anciently a burgh of barony. Population, 835. LINTON (New), a village in the parish of Pres- tonkirk, Haddingtonshire. LINTON (West). See Linton, Peebles-shiie. LINTRATHEN. }48 LISMORE AND APPIN. LINTRATHKX, a parish, containing a post-office station of its own name, also the hamlets of J'ridgend and Pitmudie, in the Grampian district of Forfar- shire. It is bounded by Kirriemuir, Kingoldium, Airlie, Alyth, and Glenisla. Its length southward is 12 miles; and its greatest bieadth is oi miles. It lies in the outskirts of the Grampians, and is, for the most part, a sea of heights from 5U0 to 1,000 feet above the level of Stratlimore, of bleak, barren, and chilly aspect. Along the southern boundary, and some way up the middle of the interior on the banks of the principal streams, are sloping belts of aralile ground, considerable in area, and not deficient in fertility. But most of the lands in tillage are tiiinly carpeted with a moorish soil, and produce corn of inferior quality. Among the hills in the in- terior are several valleys fit only for pasturage. The heights are, for the most part, heathy ; and, in the north corner, are wild and desolate. Abovit 3.000 acres of the entire area are in tillage, and about 1,200 are under wood. The river Isla flows 5^ miles along the western and south-western boundaries, and achieves theie its fi'.ie falls of the Keeky linn and the Slug of Achrannie, fiom the former of which arose the name of Lintrathen. The rivulets Back-water and ilelgam-water rise in the northern extremity, and run southward through the interior, making a junction a little above the parish church, whence their united stream proceeds to the Isla. ]jintrathen-loch, nearly circular in outliric, about 2^ miles in circumference, and of picturesque appearance, lies J of a mile west of the parish church, and sends off its superlluence to Back-water. The principal landowners are the Earl of Airlie and Sir Charles l^yell. Tliereil rental in 185.'> was £4,4o. LOCHANS, a post-office village in the parishes of Inch and Portpatrick, Wigtonshire. It stands on the road from Stranraer to Portpatrick, Ih nnle from the former town, and 5 miles from the latter. Popu- lation, 103. Houses, 20. LOCHARBRIGGS, a village in the east side of the parish of Dumfries, contiguous to Lochar-nioss Dumfries-shire. Population, 213. Houses, 44. LOCHAR-BURN, a small tributary of the Avon, in the parish of Avondale, Lanarkshire. LOCH-ARD. See Aed axd DowAi.r.Y. LOCH-ARKEG. See Arciiaig. LOCHAR-MOSS, a morass in the parishes of Dumfries, Caerlaverock, Tinwald, Torthorwald, Mousewald, and Ruthwell, Dumfries-shire. It ex- tends northward from the Solway frith in a stripe 10 miles long, and from 2 to 3 miles broad; and. over its whole extent, it is nearly a dead level. Tradition asserts it to have been first covered witli wood, next overflowed bv the sea, and made so deep as to be navigable to nearly its head, and next LOCH-ARNIZOET. il LOCIIBEOOM. choked up with silt, mud. and aquatic vegetation, till it became successively a marsh and a bog. 'J'lie peasantry around it preserve the tradition in the following couplet : — " First a wood, .ind tlieii a soo, Kovv a moss, and e'er will be." Beneath the moss is a thick stratum of sea-sand, oc- casionally mixed with shells and other marine de- posits. From this stratum have been dug many large fragments of ancient vessels, some antique canoes, formed from the trunk of single trees, and several iron grapples, small anchors, and other relics of local navigation. One of the excavated canoes was of large size, formed of the trunk of a venerable oak, and hollowed out apparently by fire. Anti- quarian investigation has suggested curious proba- bilities as to the ancient existence of a sea port near the north-east extremity of the morass. Above the stratum of sea-sand arc found many large and seem- ingly aged trees. These are chiefly fir, but also in- clude oak, birch, and hazel — the last with their nuts and husks; and they all lie with their tops towards the north-east, seemingly indicating by their posi- tion that they were eradicated and thrown prostrate by the rush of the impetuous tide, aided probably by the south--western blast. The river Nith, some per- sons contend, anciently flowed along this tract: but some swells in the ground between the head of the morass and the present bed of the river, seem un- favourable to the theory. Kobert Bruce — if tradition may be ci'edited — could not pass the moss in his pro- gress from 'J'orthorwald castle to meet Comyn at Dumfries, but pursued the very circuitous route of skirting it round by the Tinwald hills. The moss, even so late as his time, seems thus to have been impassable; but it is now traversed by four lines of road, and by the Glasgow and South- Western rail- way. The morass is far from being useless or of gener- ally repulsive aspect. Portions of it abound with grouse and other game, and have their own attrac- tions to the sportsman; other portions aie regularly cut into excellent peats, and furnish supplies of fuel, large in quantity, and of great value to a county dependent on mai"ine importation and inland carriage for coal; and other portions, of very considerable aggregate extent, are conveited into pastures and arable grounds, and are tufted or frilled with plan- tation. Much of it is green and pleasant, resem- bling more a pastoral valley than a morass. Near its north end is the spacious racing-ground of Tin- wald-downs, once surpassed in Scotland, as to the kind of celebrity which such an object possesses, only by the racing-ground of Kelso. On one of the roads which traverse it stands the pleasant little vil- lage of Trench; and close on its margin, in various directions, are the villages of Roucan, Collin, Loch- arbriggs, Blackshaws, Bankend, and Greenmill. In 1785, after a very dry summer, the moss accident- ally caught fire, and Ijurnt to a great extent till the fire was extinguished by a heavy fall of rain; and in the dry summer of 1826, it became once more ignited, burnt with rapidly-extended progress, and before the destructive flames could be subdued, carried them beneath and around the sites of several cottages. l.OCH-ARNIZORT, a ramification of Loch- Snizort, on the west side of Skve, Inverness-shire. LOCHAR-WATEK, a small river of Dumfries- shire, cutting Lochar-moss lengthways into nearly equal parts. It rises in the parish of Kirkmahoe, and after ninning a mile eastward to the boundary, assumes a southerly direction, and flows 1 1 miles between the parishes of Kirkmahoe, Dumfries, and Caerlavoiock on the west, and those of Tinwahl Tortlionvald, and Mousewald on the east. It now^ over a distance of 4 miles, describes a denii-semi- circle between Caerlaverock and Ruthwell; and, before losing itself in the Solway, it forms an estuary, U mile in length, and half-a-mile in mean breadth. I-etween Dumfries and Tinwald it so splits its wa- ters as to enclose an islet, g of a mile long, and ^ of a mile broad, called Tinwald Isle. The stream is, in the last degree, sluggish, and wears, in most places, the appearance of a mossy, stagnant, vege- tating pool. From head to foot of Lochar-moss— a course, including windings, of at least 12 miles— it has a fall of onlv 1 1 feet. LOCH-ASSYNT. See Assyxt. LOCH-AVEN. See Avex. LOCH-AVICH. See Avjch. LOCH-AWE. See Awk. LOCH AY. See Lochy. LOCH-BADANLOCH, a lake about Zh nn-los long, iu the upper part of the parish of Kildonan, Sutherlandshire. Its superfluence is a chief head- stream of Helmsdale-water. LOCH-BAY, a ramification of Locli-Dunvegan, on the west side of the island of Skye. It projects from the north side of Loch-Dunvegan into the peninsula of Yaternish, has a length of about 2 miles, and affords cood anchorage in ordinary weather. LOCH-BEAULY. See Beaui.y. LOCH-BEE. See Bee. LOCH-BEG, a ramification of Loch-Bracadale, on the south-west coast of the island of Skve. LOCH-BENEVAN, a lake about 3^ miles long in Strathaffrick, Inverness-shire. Its scenery it sublime; and the mountain Maum-Soule. on the north side of it, is sheeted with the largest known mass of perennial snow in Britain. LOCH-BOARLAN. See Alt.^x-xax-Ceai.gacu. LOCH-BOISDALE. See Boisdale. LOCH-BORLEY. See Durness. LOCH-BRACK. See Balmaci.ellax. LOCH-BRALLAIG. See Bkallaig. LOCH-BROLUM. See Bholum. LOCH-BROOM and LOCH-BROOM (Lrm.E). See Broom. LOCHBROOM, a parish on the north-west of Ross-shire and Cromartyshire. It contains the post-office station of Lochbroom, and the post-office village of Ullapool. It is bounded by the Minch, by Sutherlandshire, and by the parishes of Kincar- dine, Contin, and Gaix-loch. Its length westward is about 36 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 20 miles. Along its coast, and belonging to it, are the Summer-isles, Horse-isle, Martin-isle, Priest- isle, Greinord- island, and some "-nialler islands. Its coast is indented by Loch-Enard, Big Loch- Broom, Little Loch-Broom, Loch-Greinord, and a number of bays; and, though not more than 20 miles in extent in a straight line, it measures at least 100 miles along its windings. The boundary- line along the interior is scarcely less irregular and intricate. The general surface of the parish is a wild, heathy, alpine labyrinth. " To a spectator placed on an eminence iu the inland part of it, the appearance is that of a wide and dreaiy waste of bleak and barren heath, as if a segment of the great ocean, agitated and tossed and tumbled, not by an ordinary storm, however violent, but by some fright- ful convulsion of nature, with here and there a rude and lofty peak of rugged rock towering to the skies, had been suddenly condensed, and formed into a solid shapeless mass of unproductive desert, without one spot of green on which to rest the eye. On de- scending from the heights, however, and advancing toward the sea, the ground assumes a very differcu* LOCH-BUILG. 352 LOCH-CORK. and more pleasing aspect. Here, along the shores j of the ocean, on the sides of the great arms of the ; sea hy which the parisli is intersected, and the rich vallevs whicli extend far among the hills, the eye is refreshed In- the siglit of fertile fields and populous hamlets, wi'th nnmerous flocks and licrds, and woods and waters." 'i'he arable soil is shallow, but toler- ably fertile. The parish is divided into four dis- tricts: namely, the Aird of Coigach, Lochbroom- propei-, the Little stratli, and the Laigh. Tliere is a mountain-lake called Loch-Broom, about 3 miks in length, and 1 in breadth; from which a rapid river, called the Broom, descends into the Big-loch below the parish church. The Laigli is watered by the Meikle river, which descends from Locli-na-Sealgh, a beautiful sheet of water about G miles in length. The parish contains many of the ancient drystonc circular buildin.gs, of the kind called duns. There are five landowners, all except one non-resident. Population in 1831, 4,615 ; in 1861, 4.8fi2. Houses, 924. Assessed property in i860, £9,329. This parish is in the presbytery of Lochcarron, and synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Marchioness of StaffoVd. Stipend, £208 10s. 9d. Schoolmaster's .salary is now £35, witli about £6 fees. The parish church was built in 1844, and contains 650 sittings. There is a government cburcli at Ullapool, witli 'the status of a quoad sacra parisli church. There are two Free churches, one at Ullapool with an at- tendance of 1,240, the other at Coigach with an at- tendance of about 600; and the amount of their receipts in 1865 was £191 12s. lOd. There are 7 non- parochial schools. — Lochbroom is a rendezvous of herring-boats, and gives name to a district of fish- eries comprising 43 creeks. The produce of that district in 1854 included 1,328 barrels of herrings, and 117,194 cod and ling fish; the number of persons employed in it was 2,414 ; the number of boats was 570 ; and the value of these boats, together with nets and lines, was £23,370. LOCH-BilORA. See Bkora. LOCH-BPvOWN. See J^Iauchi.ixe. LOCH-BRUIACH. See Bhliacu. LOCH-BUILG, a mountain lake, upwards of a mile long and about ^ a mile broad, abounding in trout, in the upper part of the parish of Kirkmichael, Banffshire, contiguous to the boundary with Aber- deenshire. LOCH-BURN. See Linlithgow. LOCH-BUY, a bay on the south coast of the island of JNIull, Argyleshire. It enters about 7J miles west-north-west of Eiisdale, and has a length of aljout 3 miles, with a breadth of about 1 mile. LOCH-CAILM. See Reay. LOCH-CALVA, ,a bay on the coast of the parish of Edderachyllis, Sutherlandshire. LOCH-CAOLISPORT. See Caou sport and KiNAPDALE. LOCH-CARNABATTAN, a lak-, attractive to anglers, in the parish of Kiltarlity, Inverness-shire. LOCH-CARROx\, the estuary of the rivulet Car- ron, in the south-west of Ross-shire. It extends about 15 miles south-westward, from the influx of the rivulet till it becomes lost in the sea oft" the north-east of Skye. Its breadth for about 8 miles nowhere exceeds 1 mile ; but it then suddenly ex- pands to about 3 miles; and it thence maintains that breadth on the average to the sea. A ramifi- cation of it goes north-north-eastward, under the name of Loch-Kisliorn, fjom the north side of the part where it obtains its sudden expansion. The loch is crossed, about 3 miles above its expansion, by Strome-ferry, which is on the line of the great west-coast road of Scotland. A noble view of the loch's basin is obtained from an eminence on its south-east side above the ferry. The loch, as seeri thence, presents the appearance of a fresh-wate» lake, abimt 20 miles in circumference, embosomed in hills, the flanking ones of which project their bases into it in the manner of promontories, while those at its head rise to a considerable altitude. Loch-Carron is a rendezvous of lierring-boats, and gives name, jointly with t>kye, to a district of the herring fisliery. The produce of that district in 1854. was 2,056 barrels of herrings cured, and 6,50C caught but not cured ; the number of persons em- ployed in its fisheries was 5,513; the number of boats was 751 ; and the value of these boats, to- gether with nets and lines, was £24,400. See Cau- R(»N (The). LOCHCARRON, a parish, containing tlie post- office station of Lochcarron, and the village of Jane- town, in the south-west of Ross-shire. It extends from the mountain water-shed near the sources ol the rivulet Carron south-westward to the peninsula at the forking of Loch-Carron into Loch-Kishoni, and is hounded elsewhere by the parishes of Apple- cross, Gairloch, and Lochalsh. Its length is 25 miles, and its greatest breadth is upwards of 10 miles. Its surface consists principally of the glen and hill screens of tlie rivulet Carron, and those of the upper part of Loch-Carron. The glen of the stream widens as it approaches the loch, expand ing into a valley of equal extent to any on the west coast, and furnishing a fine subject for georgical improvement. The peninsula at tlie south end ol the parish also presents a series of gentle and irre- gular hillocks, diversified with wood. About 1.240 acres of the entire area are in tillage, and about 1,500 are under wood. The yearly value of raw produce, including £3,000 for fisheries, was esti- mated in 1836 at £10,090. Assessed property in 1860, £3,271 odds. There are two landowners. A fair for cattle used to he held at New Kelso on tlie first Monday of June, but it lias completely fallen awav. I'he only antiquities are an old cir- cular fort behind Janetown, and the remains of Strome-castle, anciently the property of the Mac- donalds of Glengarry. The Gaelic poets William Mackenzie and Alexander Mackenzie were natives of Lochcarron. Population in 1831, 2,13G; in 1861, 1,592. Houses, 330. This palish is the seat of a presbytery, in tlie synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £17 lOs. Sclioolmaster's salary is now £40, with about £15 fees. The parish church was built in 1751, and contains upwards of 300 sittings. There is a Free church, with an at- tendance of about 800; and the sum raised in con- nexion with it in 1865 was £192 5s. LOCH-CARROY. See Cakroy. LOCH-CATHERINE. See Katrine. LOCH-CHROISY. See Costin and Co.n an (Tiuj). LOCH-CLACHAN. See Claciian. LOCH-CLUNIE. See Clunik. LOCH-COIRUISK. See Corkiskin. LOCH-CONNEL. See Kirkcoi.m. LOCH-CORR, a very picturesque but secluded lake, about S miles long, on the east side of Bcn- Clybric, Sutherlandshire. LOCH-COTE. See ToRrmciiEN. LOCH-COULTER. See Coulter. LOCH-CRAGGIE. See Craggie. LOCH-CRAIGNISH. See Craignish. LOCH-CULLISAID. See Cullisaid. LOCH-DAMPH. See Damph. LOCH-DAVE.\. See Daven. LOCH-DEE. See Dee (The), Kirkcudbright- shire. LOCH-DERCLEUCH. Sec Straiton. LOCH-DHU. 353 LOCH-FENZIES. LOCH-DIIU. a lake of 7 acres in extent, in the parish of Kothesay. Island of Bute. LOCH-DHU, Caithness-shire. See Wick and Craig-Dhuloch. LOCH-DIRN, a lake 2 miles long, sequestered and picturesque, lying at the foot of the Dirn-rock, rising abruptly 200 feet above it, and forming a projection of l5en-Laoghal, in the parish of Tongue, 8utherlandsbire. LOCH-DOCHART. See Dochart. LOCH-DOCHFOUR. See Dochfour. LOCH-DOINE, a small picturesque locli in the parish of Balquhidder, Perthshire. It is an expan- sion of the same river, the Balnaig, which afterwaids forms Loch-Voel and Loch-Lubnaig, and, in time of doods. forms one sheet with Loch-Voel. LOCH-DON, a bay on the east coast of the island of Mull, Argyleshire. It enters 3 miles south by west of Duart-castle, and directly opposite tlie middle of Kerrera. It penetrates the land north- westward to the extent of -1 miles. It is i a mile broad at its mouth ; but it speedily contracts to a few yards, and continues thence to be narrow to its iiead. LOCH-DOWAL, an expansion of the rivulet Car- ron. about 2 miles long, terminating about 5 miles from the head of Loch-Carron, in the south-west of Ross-shire. LOCH-DOWALTON. See Dowaltos. LOCH-DOWL. See Dux.iet (The). LOCH-DRUIDIBEG. See Druidibeg. LOCH-DRUM. See Banchory-Ternax. LOCH-DRUMMELLIE, a lake, about 1 mile long and J a-mile broad, lying on the mutual border of tlie parish of Clunie and the parish of Kinloeh, a little west of the house of Marlee, in the Stormont district of Perthshire. L(^CH-DUBH. See Shira fTHs). LOCH-DUICH. See Duich. LOCH-DUNDELCHACK. See Dundelchack. LOCH-DUNG AN. See Kells. LOCH-DUNTALCHAIG. See Dlntalchaig. LOCH-DUNVEGAN. See Duxvegan. LOCH-EARN. See Earn. LOCHEARNHEAD, a post-office village in the parish of Balquhidder, Perthshire. It stands at the head of Loch-Earn, on the road from Killin to Cal- lendar, at the junction of the road to Crieff, 8 miles south of Killin, 14 north of Callendar, and 19 west of Crieft". A mail-coach runs daily between it and Crieff. A gold mine was recently opened in its neighbourhood. Population, 46. Houses, 10. LOCH-ECK. See Eck. LOCHEE, a small post-town on the east border of the parish of Liff and Benvie, Forfarshire. It stands 1^ mile north-west of Dundee, but is included within the parliamentary boundaries of that burgh, and may be regarded as, in all respects, a suburb. It occupies a comparatively large space, being un- continuous and dispersed, and presents the appear- ance of being a busy seat of manufacture.. It has tliree spinning-mills ; and a great number of its in- habitants are hand-loom weavers, in the employment of the manufacturers of Dundee. Several quarries of excellent sandstone have been wrought here for a long penod ; and the stones from one of these were a chief material in the construction of Dundee har- bour. Lochee has a chapel of ease, a Free church, an United Presbyterian church, and an Episcopalian church, — the last of which was founded in 1861, and is in the middle-pointed style. The principal manu- factory of the place is that of Cox Brothers, who em- ploy about 2,.500 persons in spinning, dyeing, bleach- ing, power and hand loom, linen and carpet weav- ing. Population of the town in 1861, 6,683. TT. LOCH-EIL. See Eil. LOCH-EISHART. See Eishaut. LOCHENBRECK, a powerful chalybeate sprinc, in the parish of Balmaghie, Kirkcudbrightshire. The water is strongly impregnated with sulphate of iron and carbonic acid, flows copiously, is trans- parent, and not unpleasant to the taste, and acts a'^ a powerful tonic and diuretic. In cases of dyspepsy and debility, patients given up by the faculty iiave found it a restorative; in cases of ague, patients have been relieved by it; and even in obstinate in- termittents, they have found it a cure when other remedies have failed. Improved lodgings were erected 30 years ago in its vicinity, and an excel- lent road to it made from the town of Gatehouse-of- Fleet, 7 miles distant. See Balmaghie. LOCHEND, a small lake, a mile north-east of Edinburgh, and J of a mile west of Restalrig, in the parish of South Leith, Edinburghshire. On tiie top of a rock overhanging it, and close to the modern farm-stead, are the ruins of the castle of Logan of Restalrig. Lochend, at one time, supplied the town of Leith with water. LOCHEND, a small lake, attractive to anglers, and containing a small, wooded, artificial islet, at the foot of Lowtis, in the parish of Newabbey, Kirkcudbrightshire. LOCHEND. a post-office station, in the west of the parish of Colvend, Kirkcudbriglitshire. Loch- end is also a Free church preaching-station, whose receipts in 1856 were £21 6s. LOCHEND. a lake of 40 acres in area, in the parish of (.>id Monkland, Lanarkshire. Very large pike are sometimes caught in it. LOCHEND, Haddingtonshire. See Ddnbar. LOCHEND, Fifeshire. See Dunfermline. LOCHEND-HOUSE. See Haddingtonshire LOCH-ENNICH. See Ennich. LOCH-ENOCH. See Minnigaff. LOCHENURT-CASTLE. See Edinburghsuikk. LOCHER (The), a rivulet of Renfrewshire. It rises on the south-east border of Kilmalcolm moss, and runs 6h miles eastward, chiefly within the parish of Kilbarchan, to a confluence with the Gryfe, r its springs and water- cresses ; and Bendonieh. called after a saint of that name. These, and some other hills, rise to a great height. 1'here are two small lakes, well-stored with trout. The coast is well-cultivated, and its produce repays the farmer for the labour he bestows on it. Limestone is worked in several quarries. A vein of lead ore. said to be very rich in silver, occurs at the head of Loch-Fyne. Jasper, a variety of spars, and some other interesting minerals are found. The fisheries in Loch-Goil, Loch-Long, and Loch-Fyne are valu- able. The old valued rental is £4,392 Scots. As- sessed property in 1860 was £6.305. The vii- lige of Lochgoilhead stands at the head of Loeh- Goil, on the shortest route of comnnmication be- tween Glasgow and Inverarj', and is distant from the latter place about 8 miles. A steam-boat plies daily between it and Glasgow, and a stage-co ich comnnmicates between the steamer and St. Cathe- rine's ferry on Loch-Fjnie, opposite Inverary. 'J'iie village has a good inn. and a number of neat new villas; and in its vicinity is Drumsainy-house, sur- rounded by fine woods. I'opulation of the parish in 1831, l."l96; in 18«1, 702. Houses, 134. There are in this parish three old castles, called Dunduramh, Ardkinlass, and Carrick. The castle of Dunduramh is a large and strong tower, of an ir- regular figure, with small turrets above the angles in the wall. It stands in a low situation. ch)se to LOCHGOILHEAD. J55 LOCHLEE. the sea; and, as the access to it hy land must have Deen very bad, the most frequent communication would probably be by boats. The castle of Aidkin- lafis has nearly disappeared ; but it formerly com- prised three separate towers. The space between the tOTpers was defended by a strong wall about 15 feet high. In the course of this wall was the great gate, which was defended by small round turrets in tiank, Avith apertures, through which those who as- sailed the gate might be annoyed with arrows, or with fire-arms. The gate was defended b)' a small tower, rising immediately above it. Around the area, and within tlie walls, were smaller buildings, for lodging servants, for holding arms, and for store- Iiouses and cellars. The period when this castle was built is not known ; but there is evidence of its having been repaired in the year 1586. The old residence of the family of Ardkinlass — of which the ruins can now scarcely be traced — was at a small distance from this strong castle, but in a more com- manding situation. The castle of C'arrick stands upon a rock, which was formerly surrounded by the sea by means of a deep ditch. The entry to the castle from the land was by a drawbridge, which was defended by a strong wall and two small towejs. The castle itself is of an oblong figure, but not per- fectly regular, as the architects, in laying the foun- dation, kept in some places by tlie very edge of the rock. It is 6G feet long, and 38 broad, over walls ; the side-wall is 64 feet high, and 7 feet thick. Be- tween the castle and the sea. there is a part of the rock which was surrounded by a high and strong wall built round the edge of the rock; within this c-pace 100 men might conveniently stand, for tlie defence of the castle, if it was attacked by sea. Hefiire the invention of gunpowder, the castle of Carrick could be taken only by surprise; it was scarcely possible to storm it, nor could it be taken by blockade, as it had always a free communication with the sea, for a vessel of any burden may swim along the side of the rock. The time in which this castle was built is not ascertained. It can be traced up as far as the end of the 15th century; but it is probably much older, The tradition of the country is, that it was built by tlie Danes. Nothing now remains but the walls ; and these are not entire. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunoon, and synod of Argvle. Patron, Callander of Ardkinlass. Stipend, £167 9s. 9d.; glebe, £37 10s. Schoolmas- ter's salary, £40, with about £5 fees. The ancient parish of Lochgoilhead was an archdeaneiy, and was dismembei'cd, about the middle of the 17th century, into the three parishes of Lochgoilhead, Kiimorich and Strachur; and the first and second of tliese parishes were afterwards re-united, and are botli comprised in the present parish. There are two pai-ish churches, — the one at Lochgoilhead, containing 305 sittings, — tlie other at Cairndow, in Kiimorich, on Loch-Fyne-side, containing 258 sittings; and the parish minister officiates two Sali- baths in the former, and the third Sabbath in the latter. There are 5 non-parochial schools. LOCHGOIN. See Fenwick. LOCH-GORM. See Goim. LOCH-GREINORD. See Greinoro. LOCH-GRIAN. See Grian. LOCH-GRIMSHADER. Sec Gkimsh vder. LOCH-GRUINARD. See Gruinard. LOCH-GUIRM. See Glurm. LOCH-GYNAG. See Gynag. LOCH-HARPORT. See HAKroRX. LOCH-HOPE. See Hope. LOCH-HOURN". See Hourn. LOCH-HOUSE. See Kii,rATRiCK-JuxTA and DlIMFRIES-SHIRE. LOCIilEL. See Eil (Loch). LOCH-INCH. See Inch, Iiiveniess-shire. LOCH-INCHARD. See Inchakd. LOCH-IN-DAAL, an arm of the sea, deeply in- denting the south side of Isla}', in Argyleshire. It enters between the Point of Rhiniis and the Mull of Islay, with a width of about 11 miles, and pene- trates tlie land north-north-eastward, to the extent of about 12 miles, narrowing its upper part to a width of not more than 2 miles. The middle of its east side forms the considerable expansion called Laggan - ha}'. The whole loch is comparatively shallow, but abounds in fish, and is much fre- quented by shipping. See Islay. LOCH-IN-DAAL, a bay projecting from the north-west side of the Sound of Sleat into the island of Skye, and separated from the head of Loch- Eishart by an isthmus of only ^ a mile in breadth. LOCHINDOliB. See Ckomdale and Edinkellu;. LOCH-INORD. See Inord. LOCHINRUAR. See Kildonan. LOCHINTALLAN, a small bay on the east side of the island of Islay. LOCHIN VA R. See Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire. LOCH-INVER. See Assynt and Inver. LOCH-IORSA. See Earsay. LOCH-ISHOUR. See Ishour. LOCH-KATRTNE. See Katrine. LOCH-IvEESHORN. See Ross-biiinE and Loch- CAKRON. LOCH-KINELLAN. See Contin. LOCH-KNOCK, a small bay, 3 miles south- south-west of Ardmore-point, on the east side of the island of Islay. LOCH-LAGGAN. See Laggan. LOCH-LAOGHAL. See Tongue. LOCH-LAXFORD. See Laxford. LOCH-LEAMNACLAVAN. See Kildonan, LOCHLEE, a parish, containing the post-offife hamlet of Tarfside, in the extreme north of the Grampian district of Forfarshire. It is bounded by Aberdeenshire, and by the parishes of Edzell, Leth- not, Cortacliie, and Clova. Its length eastward is 13 miles; and its greatest breadth is 8 miles. Everywhere, except over 6^ miles on the east, it is hemmed in by a v/ater-shedding line of mountains. Its whole surface is ruggedly highland, consisting of wild and high mountain-ranges, partially and narrowly cloven by glens. Mount Keen and Mount Battoek, both on the boundary, the former on the north, and the latter on the north-east, rise respec- tively 3,465 and 3,010 feet above sea-level. Other summits along the boundary and in the interior at- tain altitudes of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. The heights are, for the most part, steep, rocky, and covered with heath, bent, or moss; and even the lower slopes and the valleys are, to a considerable extent, dressed in russet. "Only a trifle more than one-fourth of the area is inhabited; all the rest being triumphant mountain-wilderness, or the fiee walk of the wandering flock. Not more than ],4(iO acres have ever been tilled; and but small additions could bo advantageously reclaimed. The soil of the arable grounds is tliin and light, generally su- perincumbent on gravel. Natural woods are small in extent, and plantations are unknown. Lime- stone abounds; and a vein of lead ore has been traced for several miles, but, after a trial, was found to be uncompensating to tlie miner. All the head- streams of East-water, or the North Esk, rise in the parisli, and swell the stream to considerable bulk, before it passes into Edzell. See Esk (The Nortu). Tliree-l'ourths of a mile west of the church, a little south of the centre of the parish, and in the course of the river Lee, is a very beautiful little lake U LOCHLEE. 35.(5 LOCHMABEN. mile long, and 3 furlongs broad, at the east end of wliicli stood the ancient churcli, and whicli imposed its own name of Loclilee on the whole parish. Op- posite the manse are the ruined walls of the castle of Iiivermark. built in the early part of the 16th century, and iidnibited by the family of Lindsay of Edzell", the ancient lords of the soil. Lord Pan- mure is now the sole heritor. Several roads pene- trate far into the interior, and one leads across tlie bold mountain-boundary into Aberdeenshire. The value of raw produce was estimated in 1833 at £4,580. Assessed property in 18<3G, £2.400. Real rental in 1855, £1,469. Topulation in 1831, 553; in 1861, 495. Houses, 110. This parish is in tlie presbytery of Brechin, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d.; glebe, £20. ISchoolmaster's sahiry^, £50, with some otlier emoluments. The parish church was built in 1803, and contains 270 sittings. There is a Free church, with an at- tendance of 150; and tlie amount of its receipts in 1865 was £85 Os. o^d. There is also an Episcopa- lian chapel. There are two public non-parochial schools, and a parochial library. LOCHLEE, a locality, taking name from the small lake, Lochlee, the source of the rivulet Fail, in the upper part of the parish of Tarbolton, Ayr- shire. The poet I^urns spent his most joyous days, and wrote his most admired poems, in this locality; and he makes allusion in his writings to many places around it. Coilfield-house, in the vicinity, is the " Castle of Montgomery," in his song of •' Highland Mary," and was one of his most fa- vourite resorts. A thatched cottage, about a mile from Lochlee, was the birthplace of his great illus- trator. Thorn, whose sculptures of Tarn o' Shanter and Souter Johnny are so famous. LOCHLEE, a small lake in the parish of Auld- earn, Nairnshire, lying somewhat below the level of the sea. LOCH-LEGGAX, a lake about a mile in circum- ference, and mostly surrounded with wood, in the moor of Kippen. It gives rise to tlie Ivarn of Broich. LOCHLETTER. See Glen-Urquhakt. LOCH-LEVEN. See Leven. LOCHLIN. See Fearn. LOCH-LTNG. See Long, Eoss-shire. LOCH-LTNNHE. See Linn he. LOCH-LOCH Y. See Loch v. LOCH-LO?kIOND. See Lomoxd. LOCH-LONG. See Long. LOCH-LOYAL. See Tongue. LOCH-LUAG. See Luag. LOCH-LUBNAIG. See Lui^naig. LOCH-LUICHART. See Luichaht. LOCH-LUIN. See Luin. LOCH-LYON. See Lyon. LOCHMABBERY, a lake partly in Ayrshire, out chiefly in Wigtonshire. It lies on the mutual border of "the parishes of Colmonell, Penningham, and Kirkcowan. It is Ij mile in length, and i a mile in breadth. It has several islets; and on one of these are remains of a large castellated building. The lake discbarges itself by the river Bladenoch. There is adjacent to it a post-office station of its own name, subordinate to Girvan. L0CH:\IABEX. a parish near the centre of An- nandale, Dumfries-shire. It contains the royal burgh of Lochmaben, the post-oflice villages of Hightae and Templand, and the three villages which, jointly with Hightae, are called the Four- towns. It is" bounded by Johnstone, Applegarth, Dryfesdale, Dalton, Mousewald, Torthorwald, Tin- wald, and Kirkmichael. Its length southward is 82 miles; and its greatest breadth is 3^ miles. The highest ground is along the western boundary, but it is tlie summit merely of a long waving swell, and all acknowledges the dominion of the plough. The surface descends in a very gentle and finely diversified gradient, till nearly mid-breadth of the parish; and thence, excepting some easy i-ising grounds toward the north, it everywhere subsides into a rich and beautiful plain. Excepting three small mosses, which are of great value to the in- habitants for fuel, the whole parish is arable, though a considerable proportion of it is disposed in mea- dow-land and pasture. The soil toward the west is light and gravelly, but, in other parts, is uncom- monly rich, consisting over a large area of the fin- est alluvial loam, occasionally nine feet deep, and everywiiero abundantly fructiferous in every de- scription of crop. The land is too valuable to admit of nujch plantation ; but it has fine enclosures, is sheltered by wide files of trees, and comprises about 90 acres of plantation. Red sandstone is quarried at Corncockle-moor, in thin slabs for roofing, and in blocks for building. The river Annan, in mazy folds, runs along most of the eastern boundary. The Kinnel runs diagonally across the north end. south-eastward to the Annan, over a distance of 2f miles in a straight line, but at least 5 miles along its pebbly channel. The Ae runs a mile on the north-west boundary, and one-fourth of a mile into the interior to the Kinnel. Eight lakes lie in the interior, — most of them so surrounding the burgh as to make it appear, from some vantage grounds in the neighbourhood, to be situated on an island, in the midst of a curiously -outlined large lake. Five of them are of considerable extent. The Castle-loch, immediately south of the burgh, mea- sures 200 acres; Halleath-loch, east of the burgh, 80 ; the Mill-loch, north west of the burgh, 70 ; the Kirk-loch, west of the burgh, 60; and Hightac- loch, south-west of Castle-loch, 52. Two kinds of loch-tiout, one usually weighing fiom 2 to 5 pounds, and the other from 12 to 14 pounds, — pike, occa- sionally weighing fiom 25 to 35 pounds, — ])erc!i, loach, roach, skelly, banstickle, and eel, ai'C taken in all the lakes; and grcten back, bream, and ven- dace or vendise, are taken in addition, in the Cas- tle-loch. The last of these — the vendace — is be- lieved to be peculiar to this lake, and has drawn great attention both fiom naturalists and from epi- cures. The number of landowners, in consequence of the singular distribution of the lands of Four- towns, and the minute parcelling out of the burgh- roods, is about 270 ; but the principal are Johnston of Halleaths, Dickson of Elshieshields, the Marquis of Queensberry, Sir W. Jardine of Applegarth, Lord Murray of Henderland, and Flint of Broad- chapel. The chief residences are Halleaths, Elshie- shields, Broadchapel, and Todhillmuir. The parish has good roads, and lies within 2 miles of the Nethercleugh and Lockerby stations of the Cale- donian railway, but is not traversed by any great line of communication. The real rental in 1855 was £11,263. Assessed property in 1860, £10,502. Population in 1831, 2,795; in 1861, 3,087. Houses, 605. A curious antiquity is Spedlin's tower, noticed in our article on Jaepine-Hall. But the grand attraction of the parish is tlie paternal residence of the Bruce, Lochmaben-castle. This stands a mile from the burgh, on the extreme point of a heart- shaped peninsula which juts a considerable way into the south side of the Castle-loch. Across the isthmus at the entrance of the peninsula are vesti- ges of a deep fosse, which admitted at both ends the waters of the lake, and converted the site of the castle into an island, and over which a well-guarded LOCHMABEN. 357 LOCHMABEX. .Irawbridee gave ingress, or refused it to the interior. Within this outer fosse, at brief intervals, are a second, a third, and a fourth, of similar character. The last stretched from side to side of the peninsula immediately at the entrance of the castle; it was protected in front by a strong arched wall or ledge, behind which a besieged force could shield them- selves while they galled, at a distance, an approach- ing foe ; and it had at the centre a drawbridge which led into the interior building, and which was probably the last post an enemy required to force in order to be master of the fortress. Two arch- ways at the north-eastern and south-western angles of the building, through which tiie water of the fosse was received or emptied, remain entire. But no idea can now be formed of the original beauty or polish either of this outwork or of the magnificent pile which it assisted to defend. Gothic hands be- gan generations ago to treat the castle of the Bruce as mere!}' a convenient quarry; and, for the sake of the stones, they have peeled away every foot of the ashler work which lined the exterior and the in- terior of its walls. So far has baibarian rapacity been carried, that now only the heart or packing of some of the walls is left, exhibiting gin^it masses of small stones and lime, irregularly huddled together, and nodding to their fall. Many portions of the pile have been precipitated from aloft, and lie strewed in heaps upon the ground ; the stone and the lime so firmly cemented, that scarcely any effort of human power can disunite them. The castle, with its out-works, covered about 16 acres, and was the sti'ongest fortress in the Border, and, till the in- vention of gunpowder, all but impregnable. But what remains can hardly suggest, even to fancy itself, the greatness of what the Goths have stolen. Only one or two small apartments can be traced, and they stand in the remoter part of the castle, and excite but little interest. The enclosed spot around is naturally barren, fitted only for the raising of wood ; and its present growth of trees harmonizes well with the ruin. The view of the loch and of the circumjacent scenery, from all points in the vicinity, is calmly beautiful. The date of the cas- tle is uncertain, but probably wns the latter part of the 13th century, — the period of the competition of the Ci'owns. Tradition, though unsupported bj' documentary evidence, asserts this castle to have been not the original Lochmaben residence of the Bruces, but only a successor of enlarged dimensions, and augmented strength. At a brief distance south of the town, on the north-west side of the loch, is a large rising ground called Castle-hill, which is pointed out as tlie site of the original castle, and even as the alleged birthplace of the first royal Bruce. That a building of some description anciently crowned the eminence, is evident from the remains of an old wall still dug up an inch or two beneath the surface of the summit, and from the vestiges of a strong and deep intrenchmeut carried completely round the base. Tradition says that the stones of this edifice Avere transferred from the Castle-hill across the intervening part of the lake, to the point of the iieart-sliaped peninsula on the southern shore, as materials for the more modern erection ; and it adds, that a causeway was constructed, and still exists, across the bed of the lake, to facilitate the convenience. But here monixments, documents, and physical probabilities, concur in refusing corro- borative evidence. The Castle -hill commands a fine view of the burgh, of the adjacent lakes, and of a considerable expanse of the How of Annandale. Near it is a lower hill or mount, called the Gallows- hill, on which, in ancient times, a formidable gal- lows constantly stood, and was seldom seen during the Border wars without the dangling appendage of one or two reivers. The baronial courts of Loch- maben, and even occasional warden courts, were probably held on the summit of the Castle -hill, whence the judges beheld their sentences promptly and rigidly carried into execution. Robert de Brus, the son of that noble knight of Normandy, who came into England with William the Conqueror, and first possessed the manor of Skelton, being in a state of friendship with our David I., while prince, received from him, when be came to the tlirone, the lordship of Annandale, with a right to enjoy his castle there, with all the cus- toms appertaining to it. This grant was made a.u. 1124. A charter, granted by William the Lion to Robert, third Lord of Annandale, confirming to liim the property possessed by his father in that district, is dated at Lochmalien. • This is supposed to have been granted between the years 1165 and 1174. The church of Lochmaben was one of those which Robert Bruce, Lord of Annandale, gave to the monks of Gisburn, in Yorkshire, about the year 1183. Bruce, the competitor for the throne, and the grand- father of Robert L, died at his castle of Lochmaben, in 1295, or, according to Leland, in 1296. In the year preceding his death, he granted a charter, dated at this fortress, confirming a convention be- tween the monks of Melrose and those of Holm- cultram. " 1'his old castle of Lochmaben." says Chalmers in liis 'Caledonia,' "continued the chief residence of this respectable family, during the 12th and I3th centuries. Robert de Bnice. the first Earl of Carrick, of this dynasty, probably repaired the castle at Annan." As a stone, taken from the ruins of Annan-castle, bears his name, with the date 1300, the conjecture seems to be formed, with great probability, that the family had continued previously to reside at Lochmaben. After the death of John Bohun, Earl of Hereford, Lochmaben -castle was given to Edward, of the same name. In 1335, it was in the keeping of William Bohun, whom Randolph, Earl of Moray, " found in his own castle of Lochmaben, and bear- ing sway over all his own lands of Aimandale. when he returned from his captivitj' in France." In 1366 it is spoken of as the property of Humphrey de Bohun, who is authorized to victual and repair it. In July 1298, Edward I. took possession of it; and in 1300, he strengthened it. and the castle of Dumfries, placing adequate garrisons in them, with ample supplies, and appointing a govej-nor for each. To tin's fortress Bnice tied in 1304, on his way from London, before erecting his royal standard. Hav- ing met, near the west marches, p Traveller on foot, whose appearance was suspicions, he found, on ex- amination, that he was the bearer of letters from Comyn to the English King, urging the death or the immediate imprisonment of Bruce. He be- headed the messenger, and pressed forward to his castle of Lochmaben, where he arrived on the seventh day after his departure from London. Hence he proceeded to Dumfries, where the fatal interview between him and Comyn took place. At the accession of the Bruce to the Scottish thi'one, he conferred his paternal inheritance, with its chief seat, the castle of Lochmaljen, on Ran- dolph, Earl of Moray. When Edward III. obtained from Edward Baliol the county of Dumfries as part of the price for helping him to a dependent throne, he appointed a variety of oflicers over Lochmaben- castle, and garrisoned the fortress in defence of the cause of England. In 1342 the Scots made a strenuous attempt to capture the castle, but were repulsed; and next year David IL's particula* LOCHMABEN. 358 LOCPIMABEN. forces whom he was imprudently leading into Eng- land, were stoutly resisted and severely harassed by its garrison. David, exasperated by the repeated disasters inflicted on him, in 1316 vigorously as- saulted the fortress, took it, and executed Selby its governor. But after the battle of Durham, which speedily followed, tlie castle changed both its pro- prietor and its tenants. Jolm, Earl of Moray, tail- ing in that battle, the castle passed by inheritance to his sister, Agnes, the Countess of March, and from her was transmitted, through the reigns of Robert II. and Robert III., to her son. Earl George; and David II. becoming the Englisli king's prisoner, the castle once more opened its gates to an English garrison. Even after David II. 's restoration, Ed- ward III. retained the district of Annandalu, and kept the fortress well-garrisoned to defend it; but though connived at by the pusillanimity of the Scottish king, his dominion was pent up, by the l)ravery of the people, within the castle's own nar- row limits. Sallies and forages of the garrison provoked frequent retaliations, occasioned incur- sions into England, and led, in particular, to a lios- tile race, in 1380, into \yestmoreland. and the car- rying away of great booty from the fair of Penrith. In 1381: the Earl of Douglas, and Archibald Douglas, Lord of Galloway, whose territories had been infest- ed by the garrison, marched in strong force against the castle, besieged and captured it, aud, by eifect- ing its reduction, drove the English from Annan- dale. In 1409 the castle was resigned by the Earl of March to the Regent Albany, and conferred, along with the lordship of Annandale, upon the Earl of Douglas. In 1450, when the Earl of Ork- ney was sent to quell some fierce outrages of the dependents of the Douglas, and, though acting by the King's authority, was opposed and defied, James II. marclied an army into Annandale, and took and garrisoned Lochmaben-castle. In 1455 the castle, in common with the lordships of Annandale and Eskdale, became the property of the Crown by the attainder of the Earl of Douglas. Till the union of the Crowns it was preserved as a Border strength, and belonged either to the kings personally or to their sons; and it was maintained and managed by a special governor. From 1503 to 1506, James IV. made great repairs and improvements on the castle, and built within it a large hall. In 1504, during a public progress in the southern parts of hfs kingdom, he made it a personal visit. In 1511 he committed the keeping of it for seven years, with many perquisites, to Robert Lauder of the Bass. During the minority of James V., Robert, Lord Maxwell, being a favoured counsellor of the queen-mother, was by her intrusted with the keeping of the castles of Lochmaben and Thrieve for nineteen years, with the usual privileges. In 1565, when Queen Mary pursued, into Dumfries- shire, those who had broken into rel)ellion on ac- count of her mamage with Darnley, she, accompanied by him, visited Lochmaben-castle, which was then in the keeping of Sir John Maxwell. In 1688, when James VI., in the prosecuting of his quarrel with Lord Maxwell, summoned his various castles to surrender, Loclimaben-castle made resistance, but, after two days' firing, was given up. In 1612, the governorsliip of this castle, together with the barony of Lochmaben, was granted to John Murray, ' grome of his Maiesties bedchalmer,' who was created Vis- count of Annan and Lord Murray of Lochmaben, and afterwards Earl of Annandale. From him descended the noble family of Stormont, now merged in that of JIansfield. The title of constable and hereditary keeper of the palace of Lochmaben is claimed both by tlie Earl of Mansfield and by the representative of the Marquis of Annandale. The governor of the castle had a salaiy of £300 Scots, and the fishing of the lochs. He had also, for the maintenance of the garrison, from every parish ol Annandale, what was called laird a mairt, or, a lairdner mart cow, which, it was required, should be one of the f;ittest that could be produced, besides thirty-nine meadow geese, and ' Fasten's e'en ' hens. Little more than a century has elapsed since this tax was exacted. Altliough the right of fishing in all the lochs was granted, by a charter of James VI.. to the burgh of Lochmaben, yet the proprietors of the castle always enjoyed the exclusive privilege of fishing in the castle and mill-lochs with boats, nets. &c. About the year 1730 the inhabitants of Annandale, galled with the exactions made upon them by tlie Marquis of Annandale, the governor, resisted payment of his wonted claims, stoutly litigated his rights, and obtained from the court-of- session a decree forbidding the future levying of his usual receipts. At the abolition of hereditary juris- dictions, in 1747, the Marquis cl.aimed £1,000 as compensation for his governorship; but was not allowed a farthing. The dilapidation of the castle was probably com- menced not long after the place was abandoned as useless; but it must have been mainly incited by the triumph of the people over pretensions based on the ludicrously sinecure office of its noble governor. Our good old Bellenden, in his translation of Boece, has given a very curious picture of the character ol the ancient inhabitants of this district, and of the original reason of the erection of the castle. " In Annandail is ane loch namit Lochmaben, fyue mylis of lenth, and foure of breid, full of uncouth fische. Besyde tliis loch is ane castell, vnder the same name, maid to dant the incursion of theuis. For nocht allanerlie in Annandail, Ijot in all the dalis afore rehersit iir mony Strang and wekit theuis, inuading the cuntre with perpetual! thift, reif, & slauchter, quhen thay s6 ony trublus tynie. Thir theuis (becaus thay haue Inglismen thair pei-petuall ennymes lyand dry marche upon thair nixt bordour) inuadis Ingland with continewal weris, or ellis with quiet thift ; and leilfis ay ane pitre and miserabill lyfe. In the tyme of peace, thay are so accustomit with thift, that thay can nocht desist, hot inuadis the cuntre — with ithand heirscliippis. This vail (A Annand wes sum tyme namit Ordoititia, and the pepill namit Ordouices, quhais cruelteis wes sa gret, that thay abhorrit nocht to eit the flesche of voiding priaoneris. The wyuis vsit to slay thair husbandis, quhen thay wer found cowartis, or dis- comfist be thair ennymes, to give occasioun to otheris to be more bald & hardy quh.en danger oc- curiit." Whatever might be their character in that early period, they have in later ages showed, at least, a good deal of humour in their depredations. Of this we have an amusing proof in the ballad of the ' Lochmaben Harper,' who, having been seized with a strong attachment to the Lord Warden's ' Wanton Brown,' made his way to Carlisle-castle, although blind, and so enchanted the whole com- pany, and even the minions, by the charms of his music, tliat he found means, not only to send off the warden's charger, but to persuade him, that while he was exerting himself to the utmost to gratify the company, some one had stole his own ' gude gray mare,' and thus to secure far more than the value of all his pretended loss. 'Allnce! all.tce! ' quo the cunning auld linrpor. ■ Aiici ever alJace tliat I cam here 1 111 Scdtlaiul I lost a braw cowt foal; In Eii^laiui they've stnwu my guile gray niarel ' LOCHMABEN. 559 LOCHMABEN. ■•Then iiye lie liarped, and aye he ciirped ; Sae sweet were the liarpings he let them heiir: He was paid for the foal he tjad never lost, And three times ower for his ' gude s™y mare.' " Additional to the castles there are, in the land- ward part of the parish, two or three other civil antiquities. Hnlf-a-niile north-west of tlie town, overlooking the Mill-locli, is a rising ground called Woody or Dinwoody-castle. The summit, though possessing no vestige of building, is surrounded with a trencli very distinctly marked. In a field south-west of the town is the circular trace of a tower, which anciently possessed a wild fame. It is called Cockie's-field, from one John Cock, or O'C'ock', who resided in it, and was one of tlie most renowned freebooters of Annandale. An old ballad, still extant, details his feats of arms, dilates oii liis ,'jreat personal strength, and narrates the manner ■ )f his death. A party of the King's foresters, to whom he had been an intolerable pest, and whom he had relieved of the care of many deer, chanced one da\^ to find him asleep in the forest, cautiously beset him, and were determined upou his destruction. Jolm, suddenly awaking, and perceiving at once the snare into which he had fallen, and the hopeless- ness of escape, resolved to make his captors pa\- dearly for his life; and before they could overpower him. he laid seven of their number dead at his feet. In the soutli-west corner of the paiish is a large and very beautiful artificial mound of earth, perfectly circular, quite entire, and terminating in a sharp tower. It is called both Eockliall-moat and the Beacon-hill; and possibly served both as a moat or seat of feudal justice, and as a beacon-post for des- crying the movements of the Boider marauders, and giving alarm in the event of predatoiy incursions. Its position is on the summit of a low but conspi- cuous ridge which divides Nithsdale, or rather the district of Lochar-moss, from Annandale, and com ■ mauds a map-like and very brilliant view of a very large part of the champaign country of Dumfries- shire, a portion of Galloway, and all the Solway frith. Tiie parish has remains of several Koman encampments; and must have been traversed, along a path easily pointed out, by Agricola on his march from Brunswark hill to Glota and Eodotria. This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Earl of Mansfield. Stipend, £289 Os. 6d.; glebe, £10. Unappropriated teinds, £333 7s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with £25 fees, and £10 other emoluments. The parish cliurcli w^as built in 1810. and contains 1,200 sittings. There is a Free church of Locli- maben, with an attendance of 450; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1856, was £358 2s. (3d. There is an United Presbyterian church in the sub- urb of Barrows, built in 1818, and containing 800 sittings. There is a Eeformed Presbyterian church at Higlitae. built about 1797, and containing 325 sittings. There are six non-parochial schools, one of thein an endowed school at Hightae. The ancient church of Lochmaben was given by Eobert de Bruce, tiie ancestor of the royal Roi)ert, and the liusband of Isabel, the natural daughter of William the Lion, to the monks of Gisburn ; but it afuerwards. with reservation of some of the pertinents to the monks, resumed its status as a rectory, immediately inspected by the Bishop of Glasgow. In the 15th century the magistrates of the burgh endowed in the church an altarage or chaplainry dedicated to the Virgin Mary. On the lands of IJokele. now called Rockhall," in the south-west corner of the parish, anciently stood an endowed chapel; the pertinents of which, though seized by lay hands after the Keformation, now yield some proceeds to the parochial incuml)ent. Some other chapels ex- isted in the parish, but cannot now be veiy distinctly traced. The Town of Lochmaben, a very ancient seat of population, a royal burgh, and a post-town, stands nearly in the centre of the parish of Lochmaben, encinctured by lakes, 4 miles west-north-west of Lockerby, 8 north-east of Dumfries, 15 south ot Moffat, and 65 south by west of Edinburgh. The town i.s 3J furlonps in length, and, in its principal street-line, stretches due north and south. Over 1^ furlongs from the south end there is but one street, overlooked by the parish-church on the south, and the cross and town-house on the north. This street is spacious, and has several genteel houses, most ot them small and neat. Tlic rest of the town consists of a narrowed continuation of the principal street on a straight line with it; a street contracting into an alley, running 250 yards north-west from the cross; a street longer than this, going off from it near the cross, and running due west along the road to Dum- fries; and, a street of 400 yards, branching oft' from the last, and running north-eastward to the northern extremity of the town. All these thoroughfares are of mean appearance, relieved at long intervals by a large or good house, but predominantly lined witli one story buildings. The parish church is a hand- some edifice in the pointed style, with an elegant squ.are tower, and cost upwards of £3,000. Its pre- decessor stood at the west side of the town, on the maiyin of the Kirk-loch; and was a Gothic edifice, with a large choir, dedicated to IMary I\iagdaleiie. The Maxwells, after their defeat, in 1593, by the Jolinstones, in the fight of Dryfe sands, having taken refuge in this church, the johnslones fired it, and compelled them to surrender. Kear the site of it is St. Magdalene's well, enclosed with a stone and lime wall, and a roof of freestone. The town-house is a small uniujposing structure, built in 1723. with a steeple added in 1743. Before it is the public cross, — a tall stone fixed in a freestone socket, and presenting a very time-worn appearance. A considerable manufacture of coarse linen cloth, for sale unbleached in the English market, was at one time carried on in Lochmaben, but has totally disappeared. Tlie chief manufacture now is the UK'iking of flannel shirts and soc-ks. A large trade— if trade it can be called— is driven both in the town and throughout the parish, in the feeding of pigs, to aid supply for the smart demand of England for Dumfries-shire pork. A good number of the in- habitants farm small crofts. A fortnightly market, for pork and grain, is held during winter and spring. There are also two hiring fairs. The town has an office of the National bank, three i;ms, and a sub- scription library. The municipal authorities are a provost, one bailie, and seven councillors, ir,clud- ing a dean of guild and a treasurer. The burgh property, at one time, was very considerable, but was so squandered and alienated that the burgh became bankrupt; and its corporation revenue in 1859 amounted to only £24 odds. The town, in many respects, is now nothing better than niany a village, and has less prospects of prosiierity than some hamlets; yet it looms largely and magnifi- cently to the view when seen through the haze of antiquity. Under the fosterage of the Ihuces, it must have sprung into energy before the close of the 12th century, and speedily acquired ])robably more importance" than any other town in the south- west of Scotland. Like other border-towns, it suf- fered severely and lost its records from the incur- sions of the English; but it is traditionally asserted to have been erected into a royal burgli soon aftei Bruce's accession to the throne. Its last eliartei LOCHMADDY 3fiO LOCHRUTTON. was granted, in 1812, by James VI., and confiniis nil the eailv cliarfers. The town was twice lninit hy the English,— first, in 1463, by the Earl of War- wick, and next, immediately before the granting of its last cliarter. In 1484 the recreant Earl of Douglas and the treaehei-ous Duke of Albany at- tempted to plunder the town on St. Magdalene's fair dav: but they were repelled by the inhabitants. Lochmaben unites with Dumfries, Annan, San- quhar, and Kirkcudbright, in sending a member to fjurliament. Constituency in 1862, 45. Tlie par- liamentary burgh is less extensive than the rova! burgh. Population of the parliamentary burgli in 1831, 966; in 1861, 1,194. Houses, 245. Popula- tion of the royal burgii in 1831, 1,100; in 1861, 1,544. Houses, 309. LOCHMABERY. See Lochmabbery. LOCHMADDY, an inlet of tlie sea, a post-office village, and a considerably-frequented harbour, on the east side of the island of North Uist, in the Outer Hebrides. The marine inlet stretches into a low, flat country, consisting of brown, peaty land; and cuts it into innumerable islets and little penin- sulas, which afford a, scanty summer herbage for cattle. The waters of the inlet do not cover an area of more than 9 square miles ; and yet its coast-line has been foiTnd by measurement to have an aggre- gate extent of 200 miles. The interior of the inlet contains not one harbour l)ut many harbours, safe, capacious, and wanting nothing but sufficient trade to make them one of the finest groups of natural harbours in the world. Al)out J mile inward from the sea are two remarkable detached rocks, about 100 feet high, consisting of columnar basalt, and called Maddy-More and Maddy-Crisioch, which sei've as marks to mariners. Regular communica- tion is maintained with Skye and tlie Scottish main- land by mail-packet. The village has a jail, and is a seat of justice-of-peace courts. LOCH-MAREE. See Marke. LOCH-MEIKLE. See Meikf.e. LOCH-MERKLAND. See Micukland. LOCH-MIGDALE. See Migi.ai.k. LOCH-MOIR. See Moir. LOCH-MONAR. See Monar. LOCH-MORAR. See Morar. LOCH-MORE. See More and Halkirk. LOCH-MORLICH. See Morlicii. LOCH-MOY. See Moy. LOCH-NABO. See Nabo. LOCHNAGAR, a lofty mountain of the Gram- pian ridge, in the united parish of Crathie and Brae- mar, Aberdeenshire. Its elevation is 3,777 feet above sea-level. On the top there is snow all the year round. The ' dark Loch-na-gar' has been celebrated by Lord Byion in a well-known ballad of great beauty. In the ' Edinburgh New Philosophi- cal Journal ' for 1830, the view from the summit of the mountain is thus described : " In one direction our view extended to the sea at Aberdeen ; in ano- ther the vast granite group of Cairngorm, with its well-known summits, viz., Ben-na-muick-dhu. Cairngorm, Benabourd, Ben-Aven, rose before us in massive magnificence; to the south, in the distance, rose the trap -hill named Dundee-law, the trap cones of the Lomonds in Fifeshire, and the beauti- ful porphyry range of the Pcntlands near Edin- bu.rgh ; and, towards the west, the wild and ragged nlpine country of Athole and Badenoch added to the interest of this varied scene. Around the mountain we observed several frightful corries, bounded by dreadfully rugged precipices. We de- scended into one of them in order to examine the snow which it contained, — snow which remains all the year round. The mass of snow was thirty yards square, several feet thick ; at the surface ita texture was loose, but below was hard and com- posed of granular concretions, and had much of t])0 glacier chaiacter. We met with parties of topaz- diirgers in search of the topaz, beryl, and roek-ci'vs- tal, which occur in this and other granite moun- tains of the district, in the granite, cither in drusy cavities or as disseminated crystals. The topaz- digt;:ers find the gems only in the alluvium, or bioken granite, and generally in that covering the bottoms of corries, or spread round the foot of the higher granite summits. LOCHNAGAUL, a bay, about 3 miles long, and less than a mile broad, penetrating the coast of Arisaig, in Inverness-shire. A parliamentary road leads from the north side of it, 37 miles, to Fort WiUiam. LOCHNAKEAL. See Lochnaxgaul. LOCHNAMHOON. See Aviemore. LOCHNANEAN, a small mountain lake, in a lofty situation, abounding with excellent trout, in the parish of Kirkmichael. Perthshire. LOCHNANGAUL, or Lociixakeal, a sea-loch, penetrating the middle of the west side of the island of Mull, in Argyleshire. It has a width of about 8 miles across the entrance, and penetrates the land eastward to the extent of about 8 miles, diminishing gradually to a width of only about 1 mile; so that its general outline is not much different from that of an equilateral triangle. But its ai'ea is much occu- pied with islands, including those of Inchkennetli, I^orsa, Little Colonsay, Ulva, and Gometra; and the part of it to the north of the last of these two islands has but slender communication with the rest, and bears the separate name of Loch-Tua. The island of Staffa also, and the Treshnish isles, lie off its moutli. LOCH-NA-NUA. See Na-Nua. LOCH-NA-SEALGH. See Lochbroom. LOCH-NAVER. See Naver. LOCHNAW. See Leswalt. LOCH-NELL. See Nell. LOCH-NESS. See Ness. LOCH-NEVIS. See Nevis. LOCH-OICH. See Ojch. LOCH-ORR. See Ballixgry. LOCH-OSCAR. See Oscar. LOCHPARK. See Isla (The), Banfishire. I.OCH-POOLTIEL. See Skye. LOCH-PORTREE. See Portree. LOCH-QUOICH. See Quoicil LOCH-RANNOCH. See Rannocih. LOCH-RANZA. See Ranza. LOCH -RESORT. See Resort. LOCH-ROAG. See Roag. LOCH-ROWDILL. See Row dill. LOCH-RUEVAL. See Rceval. LOCH-RUTHVEN. See Daviot and Duxlichity. LOCHRUTTON, a parish, containing the post- office village of Lochfoot, in the eastern division of Kirkcudbrightshire. Its centre is about 6^ miles west-south-west of Dumfries. It is bounded by Kirkpatrick- Iron gray, Teri'egles, Troqueer, New- abbey, Kii-kgunzeon, and Urr. Its length eastward is oi miles; and its greatest breadth is about 4^ miles. The surface, toward the south, the west, and the north-west, is hilly ; but elsewhere it is an arable valley, interspersed with knolls, mosses, and meadows. The soil, in general, is a light shallow loam. About 5,165 Scotch acres are in tillage or in meadow; about 278 are moss; about 209 are under wood ; and about 400 are pastojal or waste. The principal landowners are Ma.xwell of Terregles and M'Culloch of Ardwall; and there are fourteen others. The value of raw produce in 1841 was estimated at LOCHS. 3G1 LOCHWIXXOCH. £8,146. Assessed pruperty in 1860, £5,810. A lake called Lochrutton, from which the parish has its name, lies a little east of the centre of the parish, and cavers an area of 123 Scotcli acres. In the middle of it is a circular islet, about h a rood in ex- tent, partly artificial, and everywhere covered with large stones, resting on a frame of oak planks. The superflaeuce of the lake is the head-stream of Cargen water. Merkland-well, within tlie parish, is a strong chalybeate, serviceable in agues, and in dyspeptic and nervous disorders, and is exceedingly light and very diuretic. It formerly was very cele- brated, and still is resorted to by persons of the middle and lower classes. On a hill iu the extreme east there is a Druidical circle of 9 stones and about 170 feet in diameter. The spot commands one of the richest and most extensive prospects in the east of Galloway. Vestiges exist of seveial peel-houses, some of which appear to have been surrounded with a fosse. One of them very ancient, and called Cas- tle-of-hills in a Scottish Chronicle of the reign of James VI., is still entire. On the corner-stone of a porter's lodge attached to it, as a modern excres- cence, is the date 1598. The parisii is traversed by tiie roads from Dumfries to New -Galloway and Castle-Douglas. I'opulation in 1831, 650; iu 1801, 677. Houses, 111. This parish is in the presbytery and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £182 6s. 4d.; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's salarv, £50, with £15 10s. fees, and £5 10s. other emolu- ments. There is a private school. The parish church was built in 1819, and contains upwards of 300 sittings. The ancient church was a vicarage of Lincluden, belonging first to the nunnery of that place, and next to its collegiate church. LOCH- RYAN. See Ryan. LOCHS, the northern district of the parish of Applecross, on the west coast of the mainland of Ross-shire. LOCHS, a parish in the south-east of Lewis, Ross-shire. Its post-town is Stornoway, about 10 miles north-north-east of its parish church. It comprehends a district of the mainland of Lewis, and a number of islets, the chief of which are the Sliiant isles. The mainland district is bounded by Harris, Uig, Stornoway, and the Minch. Its length north-north-eastward is about IS miles; and its average breadth is about 9 miles. Its coast is generally very bold and rocky, especially about the headlands. Its surface is, in a large degree, cut into a labyrinth by intersections of the sea and by fresh-water lakes. Hence its name of Lochs. The chief sea-intersections are Loch-Seaforth on the south, Loch-Clav and Loch-Brolum on the south- east, and Loch-Sliell, Loch-Dungeon, Loch-Erisort, and Loch-Grimshader on the east. A large part of its surface is a peninsula called Park or the Forest of Lewis, lying between Loch-Seaforth and Loch- Erisort, and connected with the rest of the parish bj' an isthmus of J of a mile in breadth. Part of the Park, particularly in the south, is mountainous and pastoral; but almost all the rest of the parish, especially the interior, is flat, and yields nothing but the coarsest heath. About 3,000 imperial acres are regularly or occasionally in tillage; and probably about 120.000 are either pastoral or waste. Loch- Shell and part of Loch-Seaforth and Locli-Erisort are good natural harbours. The population reside in groups of forty families or less, each group form- ing a sort of village. The improvements noticed in our article on Lewis strongly concern the parish of Lochs. Population in 1831, 3,067; in l«(il, 4,901. Houses, 893. The assessed property iu 1860 was £2,944. This parish is in the presbytery of Lewis, anank, the Com- mercial Bank, the Clydesdale Bank, two principal inns, a reading-room, a public library, a parisli church with 640 sittings, a Free church with SdO sittings, an United Presbyterian church with 57U sittings, and several schools and other institutions. A station of the Caledonian railway is situated within its east side, and affords the readiest possilile fiicilities of communication. Population in 1841, 1,315; in 1861, 1,709. LOGAN, or Logie, a Celtic name, used in Scottisli topography both singly and as a prefix, and signi- fying a hollow place, or plain, or meadow, surrounded by rising-crounds. ' LOGAN, Wigtonsliire. See Port-Log ax. LOGAN, Ayrsliire. See Cumnock (Old). LOGAN-BANK. See Glenckoss. LOGAN-WATER, a rivulet of the parish of Les- mahago, Lanarkshire. It rises on the confines of Ayrshire, and runs about 6 miles north-eastward to the Netlian. LOGAN-WATER, or Logaxiiouse- Water, a pas- toral rivulet, associated with various interesting an- tiquities and reminiscences, and traversing to tlie North Esk a sequestered vale which diagonally cleaves the Pentland-hills in the parishes of Peni- cuick and Glencross, Edinburghshire. The stream is known as the Logan, only or chiefly in history and song; and is now popularly called Glcncross- barn. See Pexicuick. and Glexcuoss. LOGGANLEE. See Edinburgh. LOGGIE. See Dunfermline. LOGGIE (The). See Luggie. LOGIE, Morayshire. See Edexkilme. LOGIE, a quondam parish in the south of For- farshire. See LiFF and Bexvie. LOGIE, a parish iu the north-east of Fifeshire. It contains tlie villages of Logie and Lucklawhill- Feus; but its post-town is Cupar, 5 miles south- west of its parish church. It is bounded by Kil- niany, Forgan, Leuchars, and Dairsie. Its length north-eastward is nearly 4 miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 1 J mile. Occupying a pcjrtion of the south-eastern extremity of the Ochil-bills, which are here broken into several parallel ridges, its gen- eral surface is irregular and hilly, and considerably elevated above the valley of the Eden. The highest eminence is Lucklaw-hill, near the eastern extremi- ty, which rises about GOO feet above the level of the sea. and commands an extensive view, particularly towards the north, where it commands the whole of the east coast as far as Arbroath. This hill consists of a yellow coloured felspar porphj'iy, very hard, and susceptible of a fine polish ; the summit is compact flesh-red felspar. Tradition says that the Kings of Scotland, when residing at Falkland, or St. Andrews, used to follow the chase on this hill ; in consequence of which it is called the King's-park. About 2,770 imperial acres in the parish are arable ; about 307 are pastoral or waste; and about 266 are under wood. The landed propertv is at present much divided. The old valued rental is £2,916 6s. 8d. Assessed property in 1860, £4,724 lOs. 5d. On the south side of the parish, and not far from the church, are the ])lace and lands of Logie, which belonged, in the reign of Ilobeit III., to Sir John Weniyss of Reres and Kincaldrum, ancestor of the Earls of Wemyss. In the reiun of James YL. tlie lands of Logie were possessed by a younger branch of this noble family. In the Minstrels}' of the Scottish Border, Sir AYalter Scott has published a ballad called 'the Laird of Logie,' founded on an incident which occurred to Wemyss of Logie, who a))pears to have been a young gallant at the court of the Scottish Solomon. Tlie only noticeable antiquity in the parish is the ruin of a square tower, called the castle of Cruivie, on the lands of Straiton. The parish lies near the line of turnpike from Cupar to Dundee, and has easy access to the Dairsie station of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. The village of Logie is a small place, inhabited by feuars, near the middle of the south side of the parish. I'op- ulation of the parish in 1831, 430; in 1861, 4l0. Houses, 102. This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and synod of Fife. I'atron, the Crown! Stipend, £205 2s. 5d.; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with about £18 fees, and some other emobi- ments. The parish church was built in 1826, and contains 280 sittings. There is a Free church for Logie and Gauldry; and the amount of its receipts in 186j was £158 16s. Id. The ancient name of this parish was Logie-Murdoch ; but the latter part of the name has long been in disuse. The ancient parish church was a vicarage of the abbey of Bal- merino. At the Reformation, Balmerino and Logie were united into one cliarge ; but about 1571, Logie was supplied with a reader, and soon after was con- stituted a separate parocdiial charge. LOGIE, a parish in the counties of Perth. Stirling, and Clackmannan. Its Perthshire portion contains the post-oiiice village of Blairlogie; its Stirlingshire portion contains part of the post-office village of Bridge-of- Allan, and also adjoins the burgh of Stir- ling; and its Clackmannanshire portion contains the village of Craigmill, the post-office village of Menstrie, and part of the post-office village of Cause- wayhead. Tiie parish, as a whole, is compact; yet the portion of it which belongs to Stirlingshire is in two sections, one of them quite detached from the county ; and the portion of it which belongs to Clackmannanshire is cut off from the body of that countj'- by the poi-tion which belongs to Perth- shire. About one-fifth of it, on the south, is the Clackmannan part; and the other four-fifths are nearly equally divided between Perth and Stirling. It is bounded by Dunblane. Alva, Alloa, St. Ninian's, Stirling, and Lecropt. Its length southward is 6^ miles; and its greatest breadth is about 6 miles. The river Allan traces its western boundary; the river Devon traces its eastern boundary; and the river Forth, from the mouth of the Allan to the mouth of the Devon, traces all the southern boun dary. In the north and the north-east the parish runs up among the Ochil-liills ; it thence descends in a hanging plain of dryfield to about its middle; and then, over nearly one-half of its whole area, it stretches away towards the rivers in strong and beautiful carse-ground, unsurpassed in its opulence by any in the kingdom. The whole surface is beautiful, — richly cultivated and adorned in its low grounds, and finely pictUTCsque in its pastoral up- lands. Its southern boundary has the far-folding sinuosities which distinguish the most capricious part of the links of the Forth. One of the peninsu- las within the links is graced with the venerable ruins of Camblskenneth Abbey: which see. Tho LOGIE. o(>o LOGIE-COLDSTOXE. centre of the parish is ornamented with tlie man- sion and the wooded pleasure-grounds of Airtlirie c.istle, a seat of Lord Abercromby. One of the Ochils, a high conical hill called Dunmyat, lifts the eye over parts of 12 counties, and feasts it with one of the most magnificent, a? well as extensive pros- pects in Scotland. See Dunmyat. Another grandly jjicturesque feature is Abbky-Craig, — which also see. Half-a-mile north of the base of Dunmyat, a very fine well issues from more than 60 springs, hears the name of the Holy well, and is said to have been anciently an object of superstitious veneration and crowded resort on the part of the Roman Catho- lics. Toward the west are the mineral wells of Atuthrey : which see. Silver and copper ores oc- cur among the Ochils. A mine of copper was for some time flattered in .its operations by the appear- ance of a very rich vein ; but it became uncompen- sating, and was abandoned. The yearly value of tlie raw produce of the parish, exclusive of wood and minerals, was estimated in 1841 at £23,088. Assessed property in 1860, £21.409. The principal manufactories are a woollen mill at Menstrie, a dis- tillery near Menstrie, and a paper-mill and a spin- ning-mill near the Bridge-of-AUan. The parish enjoys the communications of the Stirling and Perth turnpike, the Stirling and Granton steamers, the Scottish Central railway, and the Stirling and Dun- fermline railwav. Population of the Stirlingshire .section, in 183l! 640; in 1861, 2,100. Houses, 273. Population of the Pertlishire section, in 1831, 354; in 1861, 292. Houses. 63. Population of the entire parish in 1831, 1,945; in 1861, 3,483. Houses, 533. This pfirish is in the presbytery of Dunblane, and svnod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Earl of Dunmore. Stipend, £263 ids. 2d.; glebe, £19. Un- !ippri:)priated teinds, £680 3s. 2d. Schoolmaster's .salary, £35. with £33 fees. The parish church was built in 1805, and contains 644 sittings, 'i'here is a Free churcli at Bridge-of-Allan, with about 800 sittings; and its receipts in 1865 amounted to £339 9s. l^d. There is an United Presbyterian church at Blairlogie, containing about 400 sittings. There is also an United Presbyterian churcli at Bridge-of- Allan. There are three non-parochial schools in the parish, a parochial libraiy at Blairlogie, and a public library at Bridge-of-AUan. The Clackman- nanshire part of the parish includes the sites of the ancient chapels arid hermitages of Lupno, north- west of Menstrie, on the western bank of the stream which flows into the Devon. LOGIE, an estate in the upper part of tlie parish of Crimond, on the east coast of Buchan, Aberdeen- shire. See LoGiE-BucHAN and LogieLocii. LOGIE, a manufacturing village in the north of Forfarshire. See Logie-Pekt. LOGIE, a district of the parish of Kirriemuir, which was assigned, by the ecclesiastical authorities, as a quoad sacra parish to the South church of Kir- riemuir, but which ceased to be a parish at the Disruption. Its population in 1841 was 2,691. See Kikkiemuir. LOG IE- ALMOND, a district on the north bank of the river Almond, Ojiposite the parish of Methven, and immediately west of that of Monedie, Perthshire. About 100 years ago, it was, by authority of the court of teinds, disjoined from the parish of Monzie, to which it originally belonged, and annexed quoad sacra to that of Monedie. The district measures 3 miles by 2^. The soil adjacent to the river is partly a light loam and partly gravelly; and, on rising grounds and hills in the interior and on the north, it. is a deep till mixed with moss. The uplands arc aivided into sheep-walks, and abound with all kinds of game. Near the Almond are some ruinous castles ; and elsewhere are two Druidical circles. The dis- trict anciently formed the meeting point of the three dioceses of St. Andrews, Dunkeld, and Dunblane ; and is traditionally said to have been a place of con- ference on the part of the three l)ishops. About 23 years ago, Logie-Almond, and small portions of the parishes of Redgorton, Auchtergaven, Fowlig Wester, and Methven, were erected into a cha])- lainry, or formally connected with a chapel, without being made a quoad sacra parish; and within the last 4 j^ears, the united district, which measures 6 miles by 2^, was constituted by the court of teinds, a quoad sacra parish. The patron of it is the Earl of Mansfield. The parish church was formerly a chapel of ease of the parish of Monzie, and contains 285 sittings. There is a Free church of Logie-Al- mond, wliose receipts in 1865 amounted to £122 Is. lOd. There is also an United Presbyterian church in Logie-Almond, built in 1811, and containing 45(i sittings. There are three schools in the district. The post-town is Perth, 10 miles to the east-south- east. LOGIE-BRIDE. See Auciiteegave.v. LOGIE-BUCHAN, a parish in Buchan and For- martine, Aberdeenshire. Its post-town is Ellon, 2 miles to the west. It is ijounded by Cruden, Slains, Foveran. Udny, and Ellon. Its length, in a demi- semi-circular curve, from north-east to south-west, is about 9 miles ; and its average breadth is about li mile. The river Ythan, here navigable at full tide for small sloops, crosses it from west to east, dividing it into nearly equal proportions. Precipices of gneiss rock flank the stream at the part where it enters the parish, and give a very distinct echo to short sentences in a calm evening. The surface of the parish is rather flat, but has occasional eminen- ces ; and Tarty, one of its highest hills, has an altitude of only 135 feet above the level of the sea. About 5,759 imperial acres are in tillage; about 316 are improveable pasture; about 337 are unim- proveable ; and about 66, included in the above, arc under wood. The arable soil, in general, is fertile, hut less so on the banks of the river than elsewhere. The average rent of the arable land is about 15s. Assessed property in 1860, £4,479. I'^stimated value of raw produce in 1842, £13,200. The " Boat of Logic" is a well-known tune, having reference to this parish, but the still better known song of •' Logic o' Buchan," refers to a gardener, about the middle of last century, at Logic in the parish of Crimond. Logie-Buchau is traversed by the road from Peterhead to Al)erdeen. Population in 1831, 684; in 1861, 762, Houses, 119. This parish is in the presbytery of Ellon, and svnod of Aberdeen. Patron, Buchan of Auchma- coy. Stipend, £191 16s. 8d.; glebe, £12 10s. Un- appropriated teinds, £11 Us. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with about £20 fees, and a share in the Dick bequest. The parish church was built in 1787. and contains 400 sittings. During the civil wars of the 17th century, a party of royalists met and defeated a Covenanter Ibrce on the lands of Tarty ; and though the action was only a skirmish, it caused great alarm in Aberdeen, and occasioned that hasty rising of the Gordons, whose failure compelled tlie Marquis of Huntly to flee the country, and brought Sir John Gordon to the block. LOGIE-BURN, a rivulet running several miles westward on the boundary between Banffshire and Aberdeenshire, and tlien proceeding south-westward, within the parish of King-Edward, to fall into the Deveron. LOGIE-COLDSTONE, a parish in the Kincar- dine O'Neil district of Aberdeenshire. Its post- town is Tarland, 4 miles to the east. It is bounded LOGIE-EASTER. 366 LOGIE-PERT. bv Stratlidon. Towie, Tarland, Coull, Aboyne, and Crlenmiiick. Its lenjjth south-eastward is 7 miles ; and its crreatest breadth is upwards of 5 miles. Its uorth-west end lies on Deskry-side, within the basin of the Don ; but all the rest of it is in the dis- trict of Cromar, within the basin of the Dee. A p^reat part of this Cromar section seems anciently to have been the site of a large lake or chain of lakes, and is now a valley, diversified by swells, and watered by tliree rivulets forming the I.och of Daven. See Davkn (Loch). 4 i"anfre of steep high hills flanks the upper half of the south-western side of this valley, terminating on the summit of Morven, at the boundary with Glenmuick and Htrathdon. which commands a view down Deeside as far as the eye can reach. A range of heights flanks also a great part of the north-east side of the valley; but this is more gradual and less elevated. About 3,000 acres are in tillage, and about 900 are under wood. The soil on the hill slopes is generally deep and fertile; but that on the low grounds is mostly shallow, and either sandy or peaty. Tlie predominant rock is granite. Tiie average rent of the arable land is 25s. per acre. Assessed property in 1860, £i,011. The landowners are Farquharson of Invercauld, the Earl of Aberdeen, the Marquis of Huntly, Forbes of Blelack, and Farquharson of Corrachree. The mansions are Blelack and Cor- rachree. Thei'C are 3 meal mills and a saw-mill. Two farms bear the name of Cairnniore, fiom large cairns which existed till recently on their lands. The lower part of the parish is traversed by tlie road from Ballaterto Tarland. Population in 1831, 910; in ISfil, 932. Houses. 191. This parish is in the preshytery of Kincardine- O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patrons, the Crown and Farquharson of Invercauld. Stipend, £217 9s. 3d.; glel^e, £IG. Unappropriated teinds, £91 lis. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £25 fees, and a share in the Dick bequest. The parish church was built in 1780. Tiiere is a Free chureii in Glenmuick for Cromar; and tlie amount of its receipts in 1865 was £69 6s. 4d. The present parish of Logie-Coldstone comprehends the ancient par- ishes of Logie-Mar and Coldstone, which were united in 1618. LOGIE-DURNO. See Ch.\pel-of-Gariocu. LOGIE-EAST. See Caputh. LOGIE-EASTER, a parish in the north-east nf Ross-shire and Cromartyshire. Its postal commu- nication is through Parkhill. 2 miles south of the pirish church, but within Kilmuir-Easter. It is bounded by Tain, Fearn, Nigg, Kilmuir-Easter, and Eddertoun. Its length south-eastward is 7 miles; and its breadth is about 3 miles. Its surface descends from the north-west and the north to the sea-board of thenortheraextremity of Cromarty frith; and is un- even, but by no means rugged. The soil is, in some places, a strong deep clay; in others, a rich black mould ; in others, a light earth on a sandy irretentive subsoil. Sands have been extensively reclaimed, and ai-e in a very improved state of cultivation. Wheat is more plentifully pi'oduced than any other grain, and is excellent in quality. The prevailing rock is the old red sandstone. Thi-iving plantations are some- what extensive; and some natural wood flourishes on the grounds of Ulladale. The largest stream bisects the parish east-south-eastward; and one of three other burns, after heavy rains, overflows its banks, and sometimes considerably damages the adjacent fields, washing away the soil, and spoiling tlie grass. The water of one of several very fine gprings was once superstitiously thought to have a predictive power ; and, when carried, in any quan- fity, into tiio presence of a sick person, was alleged to change colour if he would die, and to retain its limpidness if he would recover. The mansions are Calrossie and Shandwick. Several cairns stand on both siiles of one of the burns, and are traditionally said to indicate an ancient battle in which sonic Scottish forces worsted an army of iJanes. A gal- lows hill in the centre of the ])arisli, and a deep small pond in its vicinity, called Poll a bJiaidh, or • the Pool for drowning,' were noted, in the days of hereditary jurisdiction, as places of capital punish- ment. There are four landowners. The old valued rental was £1,514 Scots. Assessed property in I860, £3,990. The parish is traversed by the great )oad from Inverness to Wick. Population in 1831, 934; in 1861, 932. Houses, 201. This pari.sh is in the presbytery of Tain, and .synod of Ross. Patron, tlie Marciiioness of St if- ford. Stipend, £236 19s. Id. ; glebe, £7. Unappro- priated teinds, £55 17s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50. The parish church is a neat, modern structure, on a commanding site, and contains 700 sittings. There is a Free church, witli an attend- ance (if about 500; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £112 4s. 9d. There is an Assembly's school at Scotsburn. LOGIE-ELPHINSTONE, the estate and mansion of Sir James D. H. Elpliinstone, Bart., on the nortii bank of the Ury. in the parish of Chapel-of-Garioch. Aberdeenshire. LOGIE-FORFAR. See Logie-Peut. LOGIE-HE.\D, a proniontor}' at the western ex- tremity of the parish of Fordyce, and flanking the east side of the bay of Cullen, Banffshire. LOGIE-LOCH, a lake on the estate of Logic, in the upper part of the parish of Crimond, Aberdeen- shire. It is also called the Loch of Kinninmonth. LOGIE-MAR. See Logie-Coldstoxk. LOGIE-MONTROSE. See Logie-Peut. LOGIE-MURDOCH. See Logie, Fifeshire. L0GIP:-XEWT0N, a f^rrm in the parish of Aueh- terless, Aberdeenshire, — on which are a Roman camp, and a very large tri-concentric Druidieal circle. LOGIE-PERT, a parish, containing the villages of Logie, Craigo, and Muirside. on the north-east border of Forfarshire. Its post-town is Montrose. It is bounded by Kincardineshire, and by the par- ishes of Moatrcse, Dun, and Strickathrow. Irs length eastward is nearly 5 miles ; and its breadth is about 3 miles. The North Esk traces all the boundary with Kincardineshire. The surl'ace of tlte parish rises from that river, at first gently, and afterwards more rapidly, so as to attain a com- manding though not strictly a hill}' elevation; and, in a minor section, it slopes to the south. The high ground commands a noble view of tlie Grampians, of the intervening plain, and of a considerable part of Kincardineshire. The soil, in the northern divi- sion, is a deep, fertile clay ; and in the other districts, it is partly a light loam, and partly blackish moor- land, superincumlient on clay. About 300 acres are waste; and all the rest of "the area is disposed iu arable grounds and plantations, in the proportion to each other of 3 J to 1. Abundance of wood, and the achievements of husbandry, impress on the par- ish a peculiarly snug and cheerful aspect. Of various springs of excellent water which refresh the inhabi- tants, a copious one near the site of the old manse of Pert is reputed to be antiscorbutic, and one in Martin's den produces so plentifully that its stream would fill a pipe of a foot in interior circumference. Freestone, of good quality, abounds ; but is not much worked. ].,imt-stone was formerly mined and burnt to a great extent ; but eventually proved un- compensating. On the North Esk are two seats o* LOGIERAIT. 367 LOGIERAIT. considerable manufacture. The Logie works, of the parish of Logie-Pert. a mile from the eastern extre- mity, connected with Logie village, and 4J miles from the town of Montrose, consist of a flax-spinning mill, which employs about 130 persons, and a bleach- field for liiien-^varns, which employs nearly 50. The population of the -snllage of Logie is about 340. The Craigo woi-ks. nearly a mile farther up the river, consist of a flax-spinning mill, machinery for finishing cloth, a bleachfield, and a soda work, which jointly employ about 300 persons. The chief man- sions are Craigo in tlie south-east coi-ner, and Gal- lary on the North Esk. Nearly a mile west of Craigo-liouse are three remarkable tumuli, called the Laws of Logie, two of which have been opened, and found to contain unusually large human skele- tons, and some kindred relies. The parish is tra- versed by the west road betu-een Dundee and Aber- deen, by" the road from Montrose to Fettercaim, and by the Aberdeen railway; and it has a station on the railway at Craigo, 36 miles from Alierdeen. There are five principal landowners. Keal rental in 1855, £6.262. Assessed property in 1866, £9.600. J^",stimated value of raw produce in 1835, £14,521. Population in 1831. 1,359; in 1861, 1,483. Houses, 245. This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and synod of Angus nnd Mearns. Patrons, the Crown aiid St. Mary's College of St. Andrews. Stipend, £261 83.; glebe. £18. Unappropriated teinds, £24 15s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £53, with £10 7s. 6d. fees, and £10 6s. other eiiiolurnents. Tiie parish church was built in 1840. and contains 700 sittings. There is a Free church, with an at- tendance of 3S0; and the amount of its receipts in 186.5 was £382 Is. 7d. There are three non-par- ochial schools, and a parochial library. The present parish of Logie-Pert comprehends the ancient par- ishes of Logie-Montrose, composing its eastern division, and of Pert, composing its western division. The parishes were united by act of parliament be- tween 1610 and 1615. The ruins of tb.e old churcli of Logie stand in a romantic hollow or low ground on the North Esk. half a-miie from the eastern ex- tremity ; and those of the old church of Pert stnnd also on the river 4^ miles further west. The united parish is sometimes called in documents Logie- Forfar. LOGIERAIT. a large, dispersed parish, contain- ing the post-ofiice village of Logierait, the village of Dallenluig, and part of the post-town of Aber- feldy, in the north of Perthshire. Part of it is sur- rounded on all sides, to a depth of many miles, by the parish of Fortingall in Breadalbane. This part has a length from north to south of -ih miles, and a mean breadth of 3| miles ; it lies on the south side of Loch-Rannoch. from Ij to 5 miles from the east end of the lake ; it has* a belt of plantation a mile broad from the lake southward; and it thence tower- ingly recedes to a water-shedding line of alpine sum- mits along its southern boundary. The nearest other part of the parish to this is a detached section. Hi miles to the east. suiTOunded on all sides by the parish of Dull, and parts of the curiously scattered parish of Weem. and extending in a stripe of irre- gular but generally narrow breadth, 4^ miles from north-west to soutli-east, where it stinkes the Tay. This liistrict is cut asunder across its narrow middle by the loch of Glassy; it has a lochlet near its north-west extremity; and it is softened into amenity and beauty toward the Tay; but elscwhere.it is wildly pastoral. The next part of the parish is sur- rouiuled on all sides by Dull, runs parallel to tlie tbrmer part at generally a mile's distance, and is a stripe of 3J miles in length, and f of a mile in mean breadth stretching south-eastward to tlie Tay. Tliis part lias on its north-eastern boundary the loch of Derculich, f of a mile in length, and i)osse8ses over a large proportion of its area, especially toward the Tay, a cultivated and ornamental aspect, foiled by lofty grounds at its centre and in the north-west. Tlie fourth and chief part of the parish, or its main body, lies at the nearest point half a-niile east of the part just noticed, and 14 miles in a straight line east of the part in Rannocli. It consists of an irre- g:ilar triangle, and an attached parnlK'!ogram. The triangle lies between the rivers 'i'.iy and Tunimei, from their point of confluence upward; it measurea 6 miles along tlie Tummel in a straight line on the north-east, and is there bounded by Moulin, bj- part of Dowally, and by its own attached parallelogram, — 5J miles along tlie Tay on the south, and is there bounded by Little Dunkeld and Dull.- — and 4^ miles from tlie Tumrael to the Tay on the west, but sends westward a projection of 4 or 4| square miles in area, and is there bounded wholly by Dull. The parallelogram rests one end for 2 miles on the Tum- mel, and for one mile on tlie Tay, subsequent to the confluence of the rivers ; it recedes north-eastward 5:^^ miles by 3; and it is bounded on the north-west by part of Dowally, — on the north-east by Strath- ardle in Kirkmichael, — on the south-east by Dun- keld, — and on tiie south-west by Little Dunkeld, and by its own attached triangle. Two-thirds of tlie parallelogi-am, from the north-east boundary downward, are occupied by the Braes of Tullimet, which give name to a favourite Scottish air. Among the Braes are three lakes, — the largest, Loch- Hoishne, circular in outline, and about 1^ mile in circumference. A broad belt of the parallelogram upon the Tummel is arable ground. The triangle has an area singularly varied and beautiful. Along the Tummel, or the north-east side of the triangle, stretches Slesbeg, or 'the narrow countrj-,' having woodlands which, in several places, go down to the very brink of the river, and. in one place, are veiy extensive. Sle.sbeg is flanked over its whole length by a bold abrupt ridge of heights which terminates, at the south-east, in precipitous rocd%s. Parallel to this ridge, and close on the south-west boundary, runs another ridge of similar character, enclosing several lochlets, and sending down mountain- brooks to drain the diversified surface intervening between it and the other lidge. The hills liere nnd elsewhere, are, in their summits and higher acclivities, partly covered with heath, and partly a wild exhibition of naked rock. Along the Tay is a beautiful broad belt of arable ground, forming part of Strathtay, and finelv adorned with wood. The area here, and along the two sides of the Tummel. and up the lower slopes of the hills which acknowledg' s the dominion of the plough, and displays the attractions of full cultivation, aggregates nearly 3,000 acres. So far back as the date of the Old Statistical Account, the country had advanced singularly far in georgical achievement, and in acquaintance with the best tools and appliances of husbandry. Among the rocks of the parish is a variety of talc; in one pait of Strathtay are several strata of lime- stone; and in some mosses fossil wood is occasioii- allv found. Frait-trees and garden-shmbs agree well with the soil, and are plentifully reared. The rivers frequently overflow their banks, convert the low grounds into temporary lakes, break down bar- riers, sweep away land to the enlargement of their channels, and fling a dash of wildness and sublimity over the landscape. The country, in its ordinary st.ite. ranks high in scenic attraction. " A rock, not above a mile from the church," .«ays the statist, '• coininands a prospect of a great part of the parish LOGIE-AYESTER. 368 LOMOND. The windinccs of the rivers, tlie rich vales, the slo])- ing corn-fields and pastures, the liaiiging woodlands, and the awful mountains which rise at a distance to confine the view, form, all together, one of the noblest landscapes, for extent, variety, beauty, and grandeur, that the eye can behold." Along the Tay, as well in the detached sections as in the main bodv, are some fine mansions. The most extensive landowners are the Duke of Athole, and Stewart of Ballechin ; and there are sixteen others, with each a rental of upwards of £.50. The total real rental is upwards of £10,000. Assessed property in 186G, £14. 39*5 17s. 8d. There are in the parish six distil- leries, eight nical-mills, two flax-mills, two saw- mills, and a potato starch-mill. Druidical stones and ruins of ancient Eomish chapels occur in various quarters. Cairns formerly existed in several places, but have been removed. A Roman urn and a medal of Trajan were found in the parish. The ruins of a beacon-house stand on a rock 2 miles fiom tlie niause. The ruins of a cai^tle, said to have been the residence of Robert III. after he resigned the gov- vernment to his brother, the ])uke of Albany, sur- mount a high bank near the Tummel ferry. The area of the castle is elliptical, and the fosse is in tolerable preservation. Good roads run along the Tay and the Tummel. Across the Tay J of a mile beluw the influx of the Tummel, and across the Tummel 1 mile above its confluence with the Tay, are chain ferry-boats for the conveyance of passen- gers, cattle, carts, and carriages. The village of Logierait is beautifully situated on the banks of the Tay, near the influx of the Tuiiimel, 8 miles east by norch of Aberfeld3% and 8J north-north-west of Dun- keld. it was formerlj' a place of considerable im- portance, but is now in an almost ruinous condition. Here Rob Roy made his escape after being appre- hended by the Duke of Athole in 1717; and here Charles Edward located the prisoners whom he car- ried off from the field of Prestonpans. An annual fair is held here on the 22d of August. Population of the village, 1G8. Houses, 46. Population of the parish in 1831, 3,138; in 1S61, 2,592. Houses, 481. This parish is in the presbytery of Weem, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Duke of Athole. Stipend, £250 lis.; glebe, £10. Unap- propriated teinds, £256 Is. 3d. Schoolmaster-s sal- ary now is £50, with £5 15s. 9d. fees. The parisli church was built in 1806, and contains 1,000 sittings. The westernmost section of Logierait is included in the quoad sacra parish of Rannoch. There is a Fiee church of Logierait, with an attendance of 300; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £143 6s. 7Jd. There is also a Free church at Aberfeldy. There are within Logierait an Episco- palian chapel and a Baptist chapel ; and there is at Aberfeldy an Independent chapel. There ai'e a Free school in the Strathtay district, eight other non-parochial schools in the parish, and two benefit societies. Among distinguished natives of the par- ish may be mentioned Dr. Adam Fergusson and Dr. Robert Bisseit, the latter the biographer of Edmund Burke. LOGIE-WE.ST. SeeC.4PUTH. LOGIE-WESTP^R, a parish in Ross-shire united to Urquhart : which see. LOING (The), a rivulet of the south-west of Ross-shire. It divides Kintail on its left bank from Lochalsh on its right ; uniformly pursues a south- westerly course ; falls into the head of Loch-Long conjointly with the Elchaig coming from the east- suuth-east ; and, though having an entire run of only about 9 miles, is fed by so many mountain- sn-fanu^ as to be sulject to ver}- sudden and great freshets. Salmon once abounded in the rivulet, but is now comparativelv scarce. LOIRSTOX LOCH. See Nigg, Kincardineshire LOMOND HILLS (The), two beautiful conical trap hills, situated in the shires of Fife and Kinross, and visible to a considerable distance. The East Lomond, which is in the parish of Falkland in Fife- shire, and is the most regular and beautiful, is gen- erally stated to be about l,2riO feet above sea-level, and 900 feet above the valley which separates it trom the Ochils ; but Mr. Cunningham, in his, ' Geology of the Lothians,' estimates its altitude at 1,466 feet. This hill contains limestone and coal. The West Lomond, which is in the parish of Port- jnoak in Kinross-shire, is usually stated to be about 40 feet higher, but Mr. Cumiinghani estimates it at 1.721 feet. At its base lies the beautiful and jdacid Loch-Leven. Between the two principal Lomoiids there arises another point which is sometimes dis- tinguished as the Mid-Lomond, and composed of sandstone and trap strata, suiniounted by a greyish black basalt. In some parts the Lomonds present a face of regular columnar trap. See Falkland and FiFESHii.E. LOMOND (Loch), a magnificent fresh -water lake in Stirlingshire and Diunbavtimshire. Its head commences at the foot of Glen-Falloch within I.J Uiile of the boundary with Perthshire; its upper part, to the extent of 3 miles, lies wholly within the parish of Arrochar. Dumbartonshire ; the whole of its east side thence belongs to Stirlingshire; and the whole of its south side and its west side belong to Dumbartonshire. It extends in the direction ot south-south-east, with a total length of about 23 miles; and its l)readth, for 14 miles from its head, nowhere exceeds Ih mile, but afterwards expands to 5i miles. Its depth in some parts of its upper half" is from 200 to 600 feet, but, in its lower half, seldom exceeds 60 feet. Thirty islands, of different sizes, are scattered over the surface of its lower or wider part: some of them of considerable height, most of thein finely wooded, and all contributing, with its shores and screens, to form a rich variety of picturesque scenery. The chief of these islands are Inch-ilurrin, Incli-Cailliach, Inch-Clair, Inch- Conachan, Inch-Cruin, Inch-Galbraith, Inch-Fad, Inch-Lonaig, Ir.ch-Tavanach, Inch-Moan, Inch- Friechlan, Inch-Croin, and Inch-Torr; and will be found described in their own alphabetical places. The lake lies completely imbedded amidst dift'erent ranges of hills. At the south end the Kilpatrick- liills terminate near Kilmaronock ; on the western shore are the mountains of Lus.s and Arrochar; at the upper extremity tower the mountains of Glenfalloch ; and on the eastern shore the great chain of the Grampians terminates in Benlomond. These ranges of hills are intersected by deep glens, and by numerous mountain-streams which pour their waters into the lake. The rivulets Fruin, Luss, Finlas, Douglas, with many smaller streams, drain the highlands of Dumbartonshire into Loch- Lomond ; the rivulet Falloch brings a considerable drainage into its head from Perthshire ; and the river Endrick enters its south-east corner with a very large drainage from Stirlingshire. The whole of the lake's supei-fluence is carried off" from a south- erly prolongation of its south-west corner, by the river Leven ; and the cognomen of that river was anciently the cognomen of the lake itself. See Leven (The). It is said that the waters of Loch-Lomond have increased considerably during the lapse of ages ; and in Camstradden-bay, more than 100 yards from the shore, the ruins of houses are alleged still to be visible beneath the w^ater. These traditionaiy re- LOMOND. 369 LOMOND. ports ftave the sanction of tlie learned Camden, who, in his 'Atlas Britannica,' speaks of an island existing in his time, called Canistradden, situated between the lands of that name and Inch-Tavanach, on which, he adds, were a house and an orchard. This island has now disappeared. Such an accident may liave occurred, however, without any increase of the waters of the lake. Indeed, the supposition of such an increase is inconsistent with the appear- ances presented by the river Leven, which would rather lead to the supposition that the waters of Loch-Lomond had become lower than they once were. Loch-Lomond was at one time famed for three wonders — "waves without wind, fish without tin, and a floating island." The swell in the widest part, particularly after a storm, has no doubt given rise to the belief in the first of these marvels. Vipers are said occasionally to swim from island to island, and this may account for the second. In Bleau's Atlas, 1653, it is said, " Les poissons qu'ils disent n'avoir pas de nngeoires, qu'ils apSllent vulgairement Paones, sont un espece d'anguilles, e'est pourquoy il ne faut pas s'en estonner." Various accounts have been given of the floating island— one, that it was constructed of large square beams of oak, firmly mortised into one another, by a Keith Maciudoill, or Keith the son of Dollius, who is said to have been contemporary with the famous FinmacouU or Fingal, and consequently to have lived in the 5th century. Camden appears to have heard of the floating island, and he adds a fourth wonder. " As for the floating island," says he, "I shall not call the truth of it in question, for what could hinder a body fi-oni swim- ming that is dry and hollow, like a pinnace, and very light? And so Pliny tells us that certain green lands covered with rushes, float up and down on the lake of Vundimon. But 1 leave it to the neighbours, who know the nature of this place, to be judges whether this old distich of our Neckham he true : — " Ditatur fluvius Alb.inia. saxea lipiia Dat Lomund multa friijiJitate potens. Scollanil's enriched with rivers, timber thrown Into cold Lomund's waters tunis to stone. Loch-Lomond has, with great justice, been styled the Queen of Scottish lakes. The beauty of some portions, and the splendid magnificence of other parts of its scenery, are nowhere else to be equalled. Custom cannot stale its infinite variety. At the south end its ample bosom is agreeably and pictur- esquely diversified by the numerous islands with which it is gemmed. The hills indeed have not here the true Highland aspect, but they are softly swelling, and have a green and pastoral appearance; and the open valleys smiling in the sunshine, every- wliere present scenes of calm and quiet beauty. Numerous splendid mansions, with their richly wooded grounds, are studded around the shores, at the bases of the hills, or the openings of the valleys, adding the beauties of cultivation and art to those of nature. But it is the inconceivable variety af- forded by numberless projecting headlands and re- ceding bays, and by all the crowd of fairy islands which lie scattered over the surface of the lake, " As quietly as spots of slsy Among the evenhig cioiuls," which forms the distinguishing charm of the whole, and presents an inexhaustible source of pleasure and delight to the cultivated touri.st. Towards the north end of the lake the scene becomes very different, and acquires a really Highland character. Here the lake is narrowed to the appearance of a river, wind- ing amidst bold and rugged mountains, which, in some places, seem as if they were, about to close IT. over it. The hills rise to a greater height and their bare and sen-ated tops present a bold and broken outline, often enveloped in mist and clouds, and for a great part of the year covered with snow. The valleys are deep and narrow, and their sides are eveiywhere marked by the rough and rugged beds of mountain-torrents. A great poet has said, that, "In some lakes, the pro- portion of diffused water is often too great, as at the lake of Geneva, for instance, and in most of the Scot- tish lakes. No doubt," he continues, " it sounds magnificent, and flatters the imagination, to hear at a distance of masses of water so many leagues in length, and miles in width; and such ample room may be delightful to the fre.sh-water sailor, scudding with a lively breeze amid the rapidly shifting scen- ery. But who ever travelled along the banks of Loch-Lomond, variegated, as the lower part is. by islands, without feelina tliat a speedier termination of the long vista of blank water would be accept- able, and without wishing for an interposition of green meadows, trees, and cottages, and a sparkling stream to run by his side? In fact, a notion of grandeur as connected with magnitude, has seduced persons of taste into a general mistake upon this subject. It is much moie desirable for the purposes of pleasure, that lakes should be numerous and small or middle-sized, than large, not only for com- munication by walks and rides, but for variety, and for recurrence of similar appearances. To illustrate this by one instance : how pleasing is it to have a ready and frequent opportunity of watching, at the outlet of a lalce, the stream, pushing its way among the rocks, in lively contrast with the stillness from M'hich it has escaped ; and how amusing to compare its noisy and turbulent motions with the gentle playfulness of the breezes that may be starting up, or wandering here and there over the faintly-rippled surface of the broad water ! I may add, as a gene- ral remark, that in lakes of great width, the shores cannot be distinctly seen at the same time: and therefore contribute little to nuitual illustration and ornament ; and if the opposite shores are out of sight of each other, like those of the American and Asiatic lakes, then unfortunately the traveller is reminded of a nobler object; he has the blankness of a sea-prospect without the grandeur and accom- panying sense of power." Thus far the sentiments of one, whose opinion on such points is not to be lightly gainsayed or controverted. But we think the following remarks on the passage just quoted, by Professor Wilson, will carry along with thcni the suffrages of most of our readers : " We shall not be suspected," says the Professor, "of an inclination to dissent, on light grounds, from any sentiments of Wordsworth. But finely felt and expressed as all this is, we do not hesitate to say that it is not applicable to Loch-Lomond. Far be it from us to eriiicise this passage sentence by sen- tence; for we have quoted it not in a captious, but a reverent spirit, as we jiave ever done with the works of this illustrious man. He has studied na- ture )nore widely and profoundly than we have ; but it is out <^f our power to look (m Loch-Lomond without a feeling of perfection. The ' diffusion of water' is indeed great; but in what a world it floats ! At first sight of it, how our soul expands ' The sudden revelation of such majestic beauty, wide as it is and extending afar, inspires us with a power of co)nprehending it all. Sea-like indeed it is, — a Mediterranean sea, — enclosed with lofty hills and as lofty mountains. — and these indeed are the Fortunate Isles I We shall not dwell on the feeling which all must have experienced on the first sight of such a vision — the feeling of a lovelv and a 2 A LOMOND. n7() LOMOND, mighty calm ; it is luanilcst that the spacious ' dil- fuslouof water' more tliaii conspires with the other components of such a scene to produce the feeling ; that to it belongs the spell that makes our spirit serene, still, and bright, as its own. Nor when such feeling ceases so entirely to possess, and so deeply to affect us, docs the softened and subdued charm of the scene before us depend less on the expanse of the ' diffusion of water.' The islands, that before had lain we knew not how — or we had only felt that they were all most lovely — begin to show themselves in the order of their relation to one another and to the shores. The eye rests on the largest, and with them the lesser combine ; or we look at one or two of the least, away by them- selves, or remote from all a tufted rock ; and many as they are, they break not the breadth of the liquid plain, for it is ample as the sky. They show its amplitude ; as masses and sprinklings of clouds, and single clouds, show the amplitude of the ceru- lean vault. And then the long promontories — stretching out from opposite niainlanils, and enclos- ing bays that in themselves are lakes — they too magnify the empire of water; for long as they are, they seem so only as our eye attends them with their cliffs and Avoods from the retiring shores, and far distant are their shadows from the central light. Then what shores ! On one side where the lake is widest, low-lying they seem and therefore lovelier — undulating with fields and groves, where many a pleasant dwelling is embowered, into lines of liills that gradually soften away into another land. On the other side, sloping back, or overhanging, mounts beautiful in their bareness, for they are green as emerald ; others, scarcely more beautiful, studded with fair trees — some altogether woods, 'i'hey soon form into mountains — and the mountains become more and more majestical, yet beauty never deserts them, and liei- spirit continues to tame that of the frowning clifi's. Far off as they are, Benloniond and Benvoirlich are seen to be giants ; magnificent is their retinue, but they two are supreme, each in his own dominion ; and clear as the day is here, they are diademed with clouds. It cannot be that the ' proportion of diffused water is here too great;' and is it then true that no one ' ever travelled along the banks of Loch-Lomond, variegated as the lower part is by islands, without feeling that a speedier termination to the long vista of blank water would be acceptable, and without wishing for an interposition of green meadows, trees, and cottages, and a spark- ling stream to run by his side?' We have travelled along them in all weathers and never felt such a wish. For there they all are — all but the ' sparkling stream to run by our side,' and we see not how that well could be in nature. ' Streams that sparkle as they run,' cross our path on their own; and brighter never issued from the woods. Along the margin of the water, as far as Luss — ay, and much farther — the variations of the foreground are incessant. ' Had it no other beauties,' it has been truly said, ' but those of its shores, it would still be an object of prime attraction ; whether from the bright green meadows sprinkled with luxuriant ash trees, that sometimes skirt its margin, or its white pebbled shores on which its gentle billows murmur, like a. miniature ocean, or its bold locky promontories rising from the dark water rich in wild tlowers and ferns, and tangled with wild roses and honeysuckles, or its retired bays where the waves dash, reflecting, like a mirror, the trees which hang over them, an inverted landscape.' " The islands are for ever arranging themselves into new forms, every one more and more beautiful; at least so they seem to be, perpetually occurring, yet always unexpected, and there is a pleasure even in such a series of slight surprises that enhances the delight of admiration. And alongside, or be- hind us, all the while, are the sylvan mountains, *• ' laden with beauty;' and ever and anon open glens widen down upon us from chasms ; or forost glades lead our hearts away into the inner gloom — perhaps our feet; and there, in a field that looks not as if it had been cleared by bis own hands, but left clear bv nature, a woodman's hut. Half-way between Luss and Tarbet the water narrows, but it is still wide: the new road, we believe, winds round the point of Firkin, the old road boldly scaled the height, as all old roads loved to do; ascend it, and bid the many-isled vision, in all its greatest glory, farewell. Thence upwards prevails the spirit of the mountains. The lake is felt to belong to them — to be subjected to their will^and that is capricious ; for sometimes they suddenly blacken it when at its brightest, and sometimes when its glonm is like that of the grave, as if at their bidding, all is light. AVe cannot help attributing the ' skiey influences' which occasion such wonderful effects on the Avater, to prodigious mountains ; for we cannot look on them without feeling that they reign over the solitude they compose ; the lights and shadows flung by the sun and the clouds imagination assuredly regards as put forth by the vast objects which they colour; and we are inclined to think some such belief is essential in the profound awe, often amounting to dread, with which we are inspired by the presences of mere material forms. But be this as it may, the upper portion of Loch-Lnniond is felt by all to be most sublime. Near the head, all the manifold im- pressions of the beautiful which for hours our mind had been receiving begin to fade ; if some gloomy change has taken place in the air, there is a total obliteration, and the mighty scene before us is felt to possess not the hour merely, but the day. Yet should sunshine come, and abide a while, beauty will glimpse ujion us even here, for green pastures will smile vividly, high up among the rocks; the sylvan spirit is serene the moment it is touched with light, and here there is not only many a fair tree by the water-side, but yon old oak wood will look joyful on the mountain, and the gloom become glimmer in the profound abyss. Wordsworth says, that ' it nmst be more desirable, for the purposes of pleasure, that lakes should be numerous, and small or middle-sized, than large, not only for commixni- cation by walks and rides, but for variety, and for recurrence of similar appearances.' The Highlands have them of all sizes — and that surely is best. But here is one which, it has been truly said, is not only ' incomparable in its beauty as in its dimen- sions, exceeding all others in variety as it does in extent and splendour, but unites in itself every style of scenery which is found in the other lakes of the Highlands.' He who has studied and understood and felt all Loch-Lomond, will be prepared at once to enjoy any other fine lake he looks on ; nor will he admire nor love it the less, though its chief character should consist in what forms but one part of that of the Wonder in which all kinds of beauty and sublimity are combined." A project ibr forming a canal from the foot of Loch- Lomond near Balloch to the Clyde at Bowling-bay, was long entertained, and, after being for some time abandoned, was revived and re - entertained, but was eventually thrown altogether aside. A much better project was that of a railwaj^ between nearly the same points; and this project was completed in 1850. Another project, of similar character, was the constructing of a railway from Balloch to Stil- ling, to open direct communication with the centra LONACH. 371 LONGFOEGAN. and the east of Scotland; and this pioject was com- pleted in 1856. Trains ran on these railways, in connexion with steamers on the lake, affording to the citizens of Glasgow and to those of Edinhurgli the remarkable facility of making a trip from their own honses to the head of the lake and back again in one day. Other steam-boat trips, also, are made on the lake; and regular communications are main- tained on the one side with Helensburgh, on the other side with Loch-Katrine, and at the head with the Central Highlands. But from any single ex- cursion, or series of excursions, by steam-boat on the bosom of the lake, only a very faint and limited idea of its splendid scenery can be formed. To obtain anything like an adequate conception of its many beauties, it is necessary to spend days upon its banks, to wander over the hills and amid the silent glens, and to visit its numerous islands, many of which are of themselves .sufficient to form a day's excursion. A trip in the steam-boat, however, to obtain a general survey of the whole, will concentrate the recollections of the tourist, and impress his memory more distincth\ LONACH, a mountain, 1,200 feet high, in the parish of Strathdon, Aberdeenshire. Li 1823, a large cairn was erected on its summit in honour of Sir Charles Forbes' elevation to a baronetcy. LONAIG. See Inch-Lonaig. LONAN (The), a rivulet, of about 6 miles length of course, running westward, through the parishes of Muckairn and Kilmore, to Loch-Nell, in Lorn, Argyleshire. LONG ARTY. See Luncarty. LONEHEAD. See Loanhead. LONG (Locn), a belt of marine water, a long northward ramification of the frith of Clyde, ex- tending between the district of Cowal in Argyle- shire, and the parishes of Roseneath, Row, and Ar- rochar, in Dumbartonshire. Over the whole of its length, it prevailingly looks almost right along all the lower parts of the frith ; and if it were but the inlet of a considerable river, would, as to both ex- tent and direction, possess far the highest claim to be regarded as the upper frith. It opens from the Clyde nearly opposite Gourock, and, with a breadth of from 2 miles to 6 furlongs, stretches away about 22 miles into the interior. At quarter distance from its entrance it opens, on the west side, into the fine small bay of Ardintenny; and, at half-distance, it sends off, on the same side, and in a north-westerly direction, Loch-Goii^: which see. At two points on the Dumbartonshire side, it is distant respectively from the head of the Gair-loch only 1^ mile, and from Tarbet on Loch-Lomond only If mile. Its general depth is from 15 to 20 fathoms, and its tidal current i"uns at the rate of about 2 miles in the hour. It is occasionally lined by a sandy beach, or pressed by hanging plains and banks of verdure, but in general is hemined in by declivitous or mural rocks. Seen from the entrance, or from ground on the opposite shore of the frith which commands a view of it, it preserves, for some distance on the east, a beautiful softness of feature which is almost lowland ; but on the west it is skirted by alpine heights, which are rutted, stern, and heathy, over side and summit, and begin to smile in verdure, or wood or cultivation, only in belts along the margin of the water; and it then becomes lost amid a dense crowd of rolled and broken mountain masses,— tliat wildly tempestuated sea of alps on which a facetious taste has imposed the quizzing name of Argyle's Bowling-green. But seen fi-om a singularly wild glen which wends round its head, or from almost any point in the vicinity of Arrochar inn, the loch possesses much distinctiveness and great grandeur of scenery : See articles Ai'lUOCiiai; and Glescroe. During summer steam-boats ply every lawful day from Glasgow np Loch-Long to Arrochar and the head of Loch- Goil ; and during winter they ply three times a-week. LONG (Locn), a marine projection from the head of Loch-Alsh in Ross-shire. It has the form of the segment of a circle ; and bending from a northerly to an easterly direction, separates the district of Loch-Alsh from that of Kintail. Its ex- treme length is about 4 miles ; and its mean breadth nearly half-a-mile. Loch-Duich and it go off in such a manner in opposite directions from the head of Loch-Alsli, as to present on the map very nearly the outline of a pair of antlers. Loch-Long, though injected among wild mountains, is not without at- tractions; and, in consequence of the value of its fisheries, has, on its Kintail bank, the two consider- able fishing villages of Dornie and Bundalloch. LONG (Loch), a fresh-water lake, about ^ a mile long and J of a mile broad, in the parish of Lundie, Forfarshire. LONG (Locn), a fresh-water lake, about 1 mile long and j a mile broad, with a depth of from 16 to 18 feet, in the south-east border of the parish (jf Neilston, Renfrewshire. Its superflucnce forms the head-stream of the rivulet Levern. LONGA, a small island in the Skye group of the Hebrides. It lies 1^ mile north-east of ScaJpa, and 2 miles north-north-west of Pabba, and measures about 1§ mile in circumference. It is, as to geo.'- nostic character, entirely composed of red sandstoni; it forms an uneven table-land, everywhere abrupt on the coast, and about 200 feet high; and it is merely a pasture for sheep and a resort of sea-fowl. LONGANNAT, a small village on the Forth, in the parish of Tulliallan, in the detached part of Perthshire. A freestone quarry, in its vicinity, and bearing its name, has, from time immemorial, been in great reputation. The stone is durable, quite white, and of small grain, and admits a fine smooth polish. The demand for it was long greater than the quar- riei-s could supply. The quarry has not only fur- nished materials ibr many houses of the first archi- tecture in the circumjacent territory, but has con- tributed to public buildings in Edinburgh, in Aber- deen, and even, it is said, in Amsterdam. At the village are some slight vestiges of a pier, reported to have been built by a Dutch company, to facilitafe the exportation of the stone. LONGCASTLE. See Kijrkixnek. LONGCASTLE-LOCH. See Dowaltok. LONGCALDERWOOD. See Kilbiiide (East). LONG-CAUSEWAY. See Causewayhead. LONG-CRAIG-ISLAND, an isl-.t in the frith of Forth, west of North Queensferry, Fifeshire. LONGFAUGIL See Crichton. LONGFOR(iAN, a parish, containing the post- oflice village of Longforgan, and the villages of Kingoodie and Balbunno, on the eastern border of Perthshire, It is bounded by Forfarshire, by the frith of Tay, and by the parishes of Inchture, Aber- nyte, and "Fowlis-Eastcr. Its length south-sontli- eastward is 7 miles, and its greatest breadth is 3 miles; but it contracts so much in s(Mnc places as to have an aggregate area of only about 8,990 imperial acres. All the streams are small, yet tiie largest of tliem is powerful enough to drive three corn- mills and a saw-mill. This stream rises in the north-west extremity, runs 2^ miles in the interior, wends 3^ miles along tlie south-western boundary and then runs 2 miles eastward to the frith at Biu-n- side park. The coast-line is 3J miles in extent; and f of a mile from its east end, it is bold and steep, and terminates in the rocky promontory of LONGFORGAN. 372 LONGFORMACUS. KiiiQroodie. At that point a beautiful and gently inclined bank commences; thence it sweeps away in a receding direction and in the form of a crescent from the Tay; and at the distance of 3 miles, it abruptly ends in a bluff point called the Snabs o;' Drimmie. This elongated rising ground is from 120 to 150 feet high, bears aloft on its crest. If mile from its south-east end, the village of Longib gan, and connnands, from every point, but especially from the Snabs of Drimmie and the site of the vil- lage, a noble and uninterrupted view of the Carse of Gowi-ie, the frith of Tay, and the north coast of Fife. The land of the bank is carpeted, for the most part, with a deep black loam, and, under the skilful and ornamental husbandry witli which it is plied, is alike beautiful and fertile, ^southward and west- ward of it, to the Tay and the lower part of the south-western boundarj^ the surface is as level as a bowling-green, covered with rich carse clay, crowned with the happiest fraits of cultivation, and forming part of the Carse of Gowric. In a parallel, lialf-a- mile north of the village of Longforgan, a valley runs quite across the parish, flanked on the one side by the bank which has been noticed, and on the otlier by a slow ascent or hanging plain, which to- wards the north shoots up hilly elevations, and be- comes identified with the far-stretching range of the Sidlaws. Three summits, Dron, Ballo, and Loeh- ton, all at the north-west end of the parish, are con- spicuous, and have altitudes respectively of 667, 992, and 1,172 feet above sea-level. Somewhat less than 200 acres of the whole area is disposed in hill-pasture; and all the rest is distributed into arable grounds and woodlands in the proportion to each other of 9 to 2. Such a profusion of wood as 1.600 acres, clustered in groves and drawn out in belts and in hedge-rows, combines with the luscious beauty of the ploughed lands, to give the district a snugly comfortable and very opulent appearance. About one-half of the wood is old, and comprises upwards of 13 species, including all of the most beautiful and majestic. Of five orchards, one at Monorgan is reckoned the best in the Carse of Gowrie, and has been long famous for its fruit. Magnificent gardens, extensive and richly furnished, adorn the estate of Castle-Huntly. The houses of the parish, and those of many a spot far distant from it, owe much to its quarries of peculiarly excellent freestone. Be- sides the noted one of Kingoodie [which see], there is one in the upland district whose stone is so white, compact, and smooth as to compete with the best building sandstone in Scotland. Shell-marl, very pure and white, and occasionally embedding uncom- monly large red deer's horns, was dug up and sold to a vast amount after the epoch of agricultural im- provement. Coal was long believed to exist, but eluded expensive and frequent search. The chief landowners are Paterson of Castle-Huntly and Lord Kinnaird; and there are six others. The estimated value of raw produce in 1838 was £36, 126. Assessed property in 1866, £13.998 Is. The most remarkable artificial oliject in the parish is Castle-Huntly. This stands on the sunnnit of a lofty rock, which, on its south-west side, rises sheer up from the dead level of the carse, and on the east subsides gradually into the plain. The castle, though of unascertained date, is believed to have lieen built by Andrew, the second Lord Gray of Fowlis, and named after his lady, a daughter of the Karl of Huntiy; and so massive and strong is it in its masonry that, though it has braved the blasts of ?our centuries, it defies the corrosions of time more lustily than most piles of the present century. In 1615, it passed by purchase, along with the circum- jacent estate, into the possession of the Strathmore family, then Earls of Kinghorn; and becoming a favourite residence of Earl Patrick, it received the. name of Castle-Lyon, and the estate, by charter of ' Charles II., in 1672. was erected into a lordship called the Lordship of L3-on. In 1777 it was pur- chased by the son-in-law of John, Lord Gray, Mr. Paterson, who renovated it, restored its original name, modernized its interior, and enhanced its ex- terior with the addition of wings, embattled walls, lound tower, and corner turrets. The other man- sions are Mylnefield-house and Lochton-house : and a fine feature is part of the noble park of Eossie- priory, — the other part of which, together with the mansion, being within Inchture. A considerable employment among the parishioners of Longforgan is the weaving of coarse linens for the manufacturers of Dundee. The pai'ish is travei'sed by the road from Dundee to Perth, and b)'' the Dundee and Perth railway; and it has a station on the latter. The village of Longforgan stands on the Dundee and Perth road, 1| mile from the nearest part of the frith of Tay, 6 miles west of Dundee, and 1 6 east-north-east of I'erth. It straggles along the road, covering an area of about 30 acres, and consists of a principal street and several lanes. It probably originated in the erection of accommodation for the retainers of the Baron of Huntly-castle ; but it has long been stationaiy or retrogressive. In 1672 it was erected into a free burgh-of-barony by charter of Charles II.. in favour of Patrick, Earl of Strathmore, and endowed with a pompons array of piivilege. Fairs, chiefly for cattle, are stiil held on the fourth Satur- day of April, on the third Saturday of June, and on the third Saturday of October. The hiring of ser- vants used to be done at the June fair, but has ceased. Population of the village in 1841, 458; in 1861, 442. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,638; in 1861, 1,823. Houses, 354. This parish is in the presbytery of Dundee, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £268 3s. 4d.; glebe. £13. Unappropriated teinds, £207 13s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary is now £60, with about £16 fees, and £20 other emolu- ments. The parish church was built in 1795. and contains upwards of I.OUO sittings. There is a Free church, with an attendance of 220; and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £189 5s. 5d. There are four non-parochial schools and a small public library. In a dell on the high grounds of Dron are the i-iiins of a chapel which belonged to the monks of Cupar-Angus, and of its attendant cemetery. Only the gables remain, one of them perforated with a large window, whose top is a pointed arch springing from pilasters. On the grounds of Monorgan are vestiges of a cemetery which also had, most probably, its presiding chapel. On the eastern boundary, but now in the parish of Benvie united to LifF, are vestiges of a Roman camp; and on the summit of the hill of Dron are faint traces of an oval fortification two Scottish acres in area. In the midst of a plantation of firs, on what was anciently the moor of Forgan, is a tunuilus 15 or 18 feet high, and 84 feet in diameter, called the Market- knowe, from having been the scene of ancient traffic, but proved to have been originally a barrow, by its yielding up to research coflins and human skeletons. In various parts of the parish many ancient coins, chiefly Scottish and English, have been found. LONGFORMACUS, a parish, consisting of amain body and a detached section, in the north of Ber- wickshire. Its post-town is Dunse. Its main body is bounded by Haddingtonshire, and the par- ishes of Cranshaws, Abbey St. Bathans, Dunse, Langton. and Lauder; and measures about 8 miles in length eastward, and from 1 mile to 7§ miles in LONGHOPE. 373 LONGRIDGE. breadth. The detaclied section lies 2 miles east of the nearest point of the main body; is bounded by Abbey St. Bathans, Buncle, and Dunse; and niea- Bures IJ mile by 1^. The area of the parish is about 33 square miles. The whole district lies among the Lammermoor-hills, and partakes, for the most part, their characteristic properties. Meikle- Cess -law, on the boundary with Haddingtonshire, and near the western extremity, is one of the highest of the Lam- merraoors. Dirriugton-Great-law and Dirrington- Little-law, the fonner 1,145 feet high, are fine coni- cal hills, visible at a great distance. Tiie statist in the New Account calls attention to the fact, that a farm in the parish bears the name of Otterburn. and liints the possibility of this, and not the famous lo- cality in Northumberland, having been the scene of the noted fight between Douglas and Hotspur. About 2,200 imperial acres in the parish are in til- lage; about 350 are under wood; and about 18.800 are pastoral or Avaste. Copper ore is somewhat abundant, and has been suljected to several at- tempts at mining, but does not seem to be rich enough to compensate working. The most exten- sive landowner is Brown of Longformacus. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £5,809. Tiie small village of Longformacus stands on the Dye, where that stream crosses the eastern part of the parish, 6,; miles west-north-west of Dunse, and 74 north of Greenlaw. In the vicinity of the village is the mansion of Longformacus. Population ofthe parish in 1831,425; in 1861,448. Houses,81. This parish is in the presbytery of Dunse, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Brown of Longformacus. Stipend, £230 10s. Id.; glebe, £33. Unappropriated teinds, £67 14s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £55, with £10 fees. The parish church was built about 130 years ago, and repaired about 1830, and contains 200 sittings. The present parish comprehends the ancient parishes of Long- formacus and EUam, which were united before the year 1750. The barony of Longformacus belonged, in old times, successively to the Earls of Moray, the Earls of Dunbar, and the Sinclairs of Koslin, and seems always to have had attached to it the advow- son of the church. Ellam also belonged to the Earls of Dunbar. See Ellam. LONGHOPE, an arm of the sea and a post-office station, in the southern part of the island of H03', in Orkney. See Hot. liONG-ISLAND, the largest group ofthe Western Islands, separated from the continent by the broad sound called the Minch. and from the Skye group by the considerable sound called the Little Minch. This group, owing both to its extent and the dis- tinctness of its position, has occasionally monopo- lized the whole Hebridean name, and, by general consent, is called the Outer Hebrides. Its popular and prevailing name of Long-Island seems to have arisen from observation of the closely continuous contiguity of the numerous islands which compose it; or probably from a consentaneous belief that they were all formerly united, and have undergone dis- severment b}- the erosion of the Aveather and tlie sea. The principal islands, reckoning from the north southward, are Lewis, Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra ; and the second- ary and minor islands — diminishing from consider- able islets to mere rocks — are too numerous to bear separate mention. From the Butt of Lewis on the north, to Barra-head on the south, they extend south-south-westward about 120 miles; and they have, probably, a mean breadth of about 8 miles. Many of them" are separated only by channels which are dry at low-water, or by veiy naiTow belts of sea irhich are navigable only by yawls and wherries. Their largest marine bis< ction is the sound of Harris between the cognominal island and North Uist, er- markable for the number of its islets, and the great variation of its currents. The Lewis part of the group, about 40 miles in ler.gth, belongs to lioss- shire; and all the remainder belongs to Invemess- shire. Excepting a peninsula of conglomerate east of Stornoway, a hard variity of gneiss, frequently traversed by veins of granite and of trap, composes the whole of the Long-Island group ; and is so nearly unil'orm both in its own character and in the surface which it produces, as to admit of little variety in description. A dead level prevails in Benbecula and some islets, and allows access to the lock only from some pool of water or accidental breach ; moun- tainousness pervades the district of Harris, and sends summits aloft toanaltitudeof between2,000and3,00(' teet; and a moderate, generally an inconsiderable hilliness, reigns over most part of the other districts. South of the sound of Harris the tumulated ground occurs principally along the east coast, and gives place, along the centi e, to an extensive tract of peat- moss, and, in the west, to broad bands of arable sandy soil, and downs of shell sand. The general aspect of the country, owing to the total absence of wood, and the prevalence of heath and peat-bogs, is cheerless and desolate. Yet the population is so great, so positively redundant, that, in spite of the appliances of fisheries, a remedy against an alto- gether undue pressure in the means of subsistence has, within the last 50 years, been found chiefly in emigration. A large proportion of the inhabitants, especially in the southern half of the group, are Roman Catholics, who, in the style which prevails in Ireland, very numerously sanction early mar- riages, and form a surprisingly low estimate of what constitutes the comforts or the necessaries of life. See Hebiudes. LONGLEYS, a village in the parish of Meigle, Perthshire. Population, 56. Houses, 14. LONGLOAN. See Langloan. LONGMAN, a village in the parish of Gamrie, Banffshire. It is situated on the top of a hill of its own name, and on the Bans' and Peterhead turnpike, about li mile from the coast. It was commenced about the year 1822 by the Earl of Fife, who feued out the surrounding waste land in small portions to its inhabitants; so that it has the appearance more of a regular assemblage of houses of small crofters than of a village. LONGNEWTON. See Ancrum. LONGNIDDEY, a post-ofiice village in the par- ish of Gladsnmir, Haddingtonshire. It stands con- tiguous to a station on the North British railway, and a little south of the road fn m Edinburgh to North Berwick, ^ a mile from the nearest part of the frith of Forth, 2^ miles ca§t of Port-Seton, 3J nortli-east of Tranent, and 30j by railway east of Edinburgh. It is straggling and irregular, and but the wreck of a formerly important little town. Sev- eral streets have wholly disappeared, the houses having been razed by the score to give place to the operations of the plough. A baronial mansion- house, which once j)resided over the village, is now let out to a tenant, and wears a desolate appearance. Longniddry suggests some pleasing reminiscences of John Knox. See Gladsmliu. Population, 216. Houses, 46. LONGO, a small island in the mouth of the Gair-loch, and belonging to tlie parish of Gairloch, on the west coast of Eoss-shire. Population, 35 Houses, 6. LONGRIDGE, or Laxkiog. a village in the parish of Whitburn, Linlithgowshire. It stands on the road from Linlithgow to Wilsontown, ] J mile south LONGSIDE. 374 LORN. of the village of Whitburn. Here arc a quarry, a public library, and a Free church. I'opulatiuu iu 18G1. 413. LONGRIGHILL. Sue Ken (The). LONGSIDE, a parish, containing; the post-o.Tice villages of Longsidc and Mintlaw, in the district of lUichan, Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Lonmay, St. Fergus, Peterhead, Cruden, and Old Deer. Its length northward is about G miles ; and its breadth is about 5 miles. The surface, though gently un- dulated, is generally so low that, till embankments were resorted to, the Ugie — which runs along the northern boundary to the parish, while the principal tributary to that river intersects it from west to east — was wont to overflow its banks, and lay a large portion of tlie land under water. Amongst the remedial projects suggested, previous to the embankments, was the idea of a canal, along the banks of the river, from the village of Old Deer to its mouth, near Peterhead, a distance of about 10 miles. The soil of this parish is light, easily im- proved, and in a good state of cultivation. The predominant rock is granite,— some of it very beau- tiful when highly polished; and it is extensively quarried. About 12,550 imperial acres in the parish are in tillage; about 370 are under wood ; and about 3.540 are peat-moss, pastoral land, or waste ground. The average rent of the arable land is 20s. per acre. The estimated value of raw pi'oduce in 1842 was £r)6,800. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £11,745. There are eight principal landowners; but only two of them are resident. A woollen fac- tory was formerly carried on at Milibank ; birt it ceased in 1828. There are in the parish a saw-mill and six meal-mills. The parish is traversed west- ward by tlie road from Peterhead to Banff, and southward by the road from Fraserburgh to Aber- deen. The village of Longside stands on the Peterhead and Banff road, 2j miles east-south-east of Mintlaw, and 6 miles west by north of Peterhead. Fairs are held here on the Wednesday after the r2th day of j\Iay, and on the Tuesday after the 7th day of November. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,471); in 1861, 3,008. Houses, 587. This parish is in the presbytery of Deer, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £217 Os. 4d. ; glebe, £17. Unappropriated teinds, £213 lis. 5d. The parish church was built in 1836, and contains about 1,000 sittings. There is a Free church of Longside, with an attendance of 200; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £94 7s. 8d. There is also an Episcopalian chapel, built in 1853, and containing 600 sittings. There are three par- ocliial schools, respectively at Longside, Mintlaw, and Rora. The salary connected with the first is now £40, — with each of the others £20; and the fees of the three, about £70. There are also two female schools aided by endowment, and several unendowed schools. Thei'e are small public libra- lies at Longside and Eora. A savings' bank was established in Longside in 1815, and was either the earliest, or at least one of the earliest, in the north of Scotland. The parish of Longside was disjoined from that of Peterliead in 1620, and was for some little time called Peteragie. The Rev. John Skin- ner, the correspondent of Burns, the author of an ecclesiastical history and some theological disserta- tions, and the writer of ' TuUochgorum,' 'John o' Badenyon,' ' Ewie wi' the crooked horn,' and some other popular songs, was for 64 years minister of the Episcopalian chapel of Longside. He resided in a small cottage at Linshart; and a handsome monument has been erected to his memory in the parish churchyard. LONG-SPROUSTON. See Si-roustox. LONGSTONE, a village in the parish of Colin- ton, Edinburghshire. Population, 86. LONG-YESTER. See Tester. LONMAY, a parish, containing the post-office station of Lomna}', and the tishing-village of St. Combs, on the north-east coast of Buchan, Aber- deenshire. It is bounded by the North sea, and by the parishes of Crimond, St. Fergus, Longside, Old Deer, Strichen, and Rathen. Its length north- north-eastward is about 9i miles; audits breadth varies fi-om ^ a mile to 3i miles. Strathbeg-loch, covering an area of 550 Scotch acres, lies on the mutual border with Crimond. Tlie river Ugie and one of its tributaries run on the boundary with Longside and Old Deer; and a small streamlet traces the boundary with Rathen. The surface of Lonmay is chiefly disposed in two extensive plains, running north and south, divided by two or three small ridges running from west to east. The land near the sliore is flat, and the beach low and sandy. The soil is various, but chiefly light, dry, and sand}-, resting on the red sandstone formation in the north plain. In other parts the soil is clay. The mosses are still extensive, but much land has been re- claimed. There is a line of benty sand-hillocks on the east ; and to the noi-th a fine expanse of grassy links or downs, aftbi-ding excellent pasture for cat- tle and sheep. Limestone is found in the north- eastern part of the parish, but sienite and green- stone are the predominant rocks. About 6,488 Scotch acres are in tillage or in pasture ; about 222 are under wood; and about 2,056 are moss, moor, or waste ground. There are seven principal land- owners, and the most extensive of them is Gordon of Buthlaw. The estimated value of raw produce in 1835 was £20,752. The value of assessed pro- perty in 1860 was £7,892. The chief mansions are Cairness-house, an elegant residence, designed by Playfair, and tastefully adorned with pleasure- grounds and plantations, and Crimond-mogate man- sion, another handsome edifice, recently erected. The only antiquity is a Druidical circle at Newark, Crimond-mogate. A castle named the Castle of Lonmay once existed on the links near the sea. The parish is traversed by the road from Fraser- burgh to Peterhead, and lies, at the nearest point, 4 miles from the ibrmer of these towns. Population in 1831, 1,798; in 1861, 2,142. Houses, 435. Tin's parish is in the presbytery of Deer, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Gordon of Buthlaw. Stipend, £225 13s. 3d.; glebe, £18 15s. Unappro- priated teinds, £224 7s. 4d. The parish church was built in 1787, and contains 649 sittings. There is at Kinninmonth a chapel of ease, containing 360 sittings. There is an Episcopalian chapel, with 342 sittings. There are three parish schools re- spectively at Lonmay, at Kinninmonth, and at St. Combs, with aggregate salary of £80, a share in the Dick bequest, and £58 fees. There is also a non-parochial school. Fairs are held at Lonmay on the day in June before Mintlaw, and on the day in November after Longside. LORETTO. See Musselburgh. LORGIE. See Kilcalwonel. LORN, a district of Argyleshire. It is bounded on the north-west by Linnhe-Loch, which divides it from Morvern ; on the north by Loch-Leven, the river Leven, and the chain of lochlets drained by the Leven, which divide it from Inverness-shire; on the east by an arbitrary line across the Moor of Rannoch, and by the great central southward ridge of Grampians, which divide it from Breadalbane in Perthshire ; on the south by brief arbitrary linen, and chiefly by Lochs Awe, Avich, and JMelfort, which divide it from Cowal and Argyle; and on the LOSSIE. 375 LOTH. v^-est by Lower Loch-Linnlie, wliicli divides it from Mull. It includes also the islands belonging to the parish of Lismore and Appin, and the islands of Kerrera, Easdale, and Shuna. Its length from north to south varies from 22 miles to 33 miles; and its breadth from east to west varies from 15 to 32 miles. The parishes comprised in it are Glenorchy, Ardchattan, Muclvairii, Duror, Kilmore, Kilbride, Kilchrenan and Dalavicli, Kilninver and Kilmel- ford, Kilbrandon n7id Kilchattan, and Lismore and Appin. The district of it which extends along the coast opposite to Mull and Morvern, and possesses the extreme length of 33 miles by a mean breadth of about 9, bears more emphatically, or by more uniform usnge, the name of Lorn ; and is divided into Upper Lorn, lying north of Loch-Etive, and including Appin and Airds, — Middle Lorn, lying immediately south of Loch-Etive, and including Muckairn. — and Netlier Lorn, lying immediately north of Lochs Melfort and Avich, but separated fiom Middle Lorn by no natural boundary. The remaining district nearly all lies north of the north end of Loch-Awe, and is chiefly distributed into Glenorchy, Glencoe, and the minor part of the Moor of Rannoch. The coast district, watered by many lakes and rivulets, and possessing along their banks much arable land, a considerable aggregate of wood, and extensive results of assiduous and skilful culti- vation, is the most fertile and pleasant district of Argyleshire. It anciently formed the focus of tlie Dalriadan Scottish kingdom, and possessed both its capital town and its royal castle, the cliief residence of its kings. See B?:regonium, Dunstaffnage, and Dalriada. Its name seems to have been given it from Labhrin or Loarn, one of the three brothers, sons of Ere, who, in 503, immigrated from the Irish Dalriada, and founded the Scottish monarchy; Loarn having adopted this district as the seat of his nascent tribe, while his brothers Fergus and Angus adopted respectively Kintyre and Islay. The dis- trict is rife in remains of religious structures, both Dmidical and Christian, and of ancient towers, and fortified places. Lorn gives the title of ilarquis to the Duke of Argyle's eldest son. In 1470, one Earl of Argyle was created Baron of Lorn ; and, in J 701, another was created Duke of Argyle, and Marquis of Lorn and Kintyre. Lorn also gives name to a presbytery comprising the same parishes as the district, and belonging to the synod of Ar- gvle. Population of the district in 1831. 15,963; in 1851, 14.137. Houses, 2,628. LORNTY (The). See Clunie and Kinloch. LORRISK. See Kettle. LORSTOWN. See Nigg, Kincardinesliire. LOSKENTIR. See Harris. LOSSIE (The), a small river of Morayshire. It igsues from Loch-Lossie, near the centre of tlie county, in the parish of Edenkillie, and nxns north- wards and north-eastwards through Dallas, and by the royal burgh of Elgin, to the ^loray frith, at Lossiemouth, in the parish of Drninie, — a course upwards of 26 miles in length. Tliis river is too small for navigation beyond its mouth. Since the great floods of 1829, which swelled the Lossie to inundation, with serious damage to the vicinity, large embankments of earth have been raised at great expense along the margins of the river to pre- vent a recurrence of similar calamities. LOSSIEMOUTH, a small post- town and sea-port in the parish of Drainie, Morayshire. It stands at the mouth of the river Lossie,'5 miles north-north- east of Elgin, 7i- west-north-west of Garmouth, and 9 east of Burg"h-head. It is the port of Elgin, and the shijjping-place for a large part of Moray- shire. Its harbour was naturallv small and without sufficient depth of water; btit a new harbour has been formed on a grand scale, by a com])any who were incorporated I)y act of parliainent in 1834". The ■work was opened iii the end of 1829, and has, since that time, undergone much enlargement and im- provement. The depth of water in it is 12 feet at neap-tides and 16 feet at spring-tides ; and there is an inner harboui', completely protected, and provided with many conveniences. This work innnediately began to prove itself of vast advantage to the trad- ing and agricultural interests of Elgin and the sur- sounding country; and its effects have been greatly enhanced liy the construction of tlie MorayBhire railway, which extends from Lossiemouth to Elgin. Lossiemoutli harbour ranks as a creek of the port of Inverne.'^s. The harl)our dues levied at it amounted, 18 years ago, to only about £70 a-year but they now rise so high as £2,100 a-year. A "ship- building-yard was recently commenced, luider favourable auspices. Direct communication is enjoyed by steam-vessels with Inverness, Leith, and other ports. The town of Lo.ssiemouth has recently undergone great increase; but connected witli it also are the considerable village of Stotfield, a little to the west, and the new village of Brander- bnrgh, situated close by the liarbour. The latter had only 145 inhabitants in 1851, but now has so many as about 600. It is partly a fishing village, but shares in other respects with the town of Lossie- mouth. A neat plan for it was designed before a feu was let; and that plan has been strictly followed out. The fishermen's houses are tidy, and all in one quarter; and some beautiful marine villas stand on the outskirts. Population of Lossiemouth- proper, 1,333. LOTH, a parish on the east coast of Sutherland- shire. It contains the village of Port-Gower, and its north-east end adjoins the post-town of Helms- dale; but its postal communication is through Golspie, 11 miles soutli-west of its church. It is bounded by the Moray frith, and by the parislies ot Clyne and Kildonan. Its length south-westward is 7 miles ; and its greatest breadth is nearly 4 miles. A range of steep liills, whose loftiest sunnnits attain altitudes of about 1,900 feet above sea-level, extends along the inner frontier of the parish in a line nearly parallel with the sea-coast, and Ibrms over all its extent a water-shedding boundarj^ The surface, from the summit-line of this ridge sea-ward, is first' a very rapid declivity, and next either a hanging plain, or a level expanse of alluvial land, all fertile, cultivated, and embellished. The ravines cut down bv^ streamlets along the descending surface are very nsarked and full of character, and contain some striking and highly romantic touc':UCKLAW-HILL, See Logie, Fifeshire. LUCKYHILL. See Haddjngtoxsiiike. LUDE. See Bi.air-Athole. LUFFNESS-BAY, a small bay on the south coast of the frith of Forth, between the parish of Aiierlady and that of Dirieton, Haddingtonshire. The bay now bears the name of Aberlady, but figures in history, under that of LufTness, as the port of Haddington. That ancient burgh having been for ages a sort of commercial metropolis, where the court of "the four burghs" assembled, under the chamberlain, to decide on the disputes of traffic, conceived the notion of becoming a sea-port, thougli upwards of 5 miles from any harbour, and obtained from James VI. a charter vesting it with full powere over the bay of LufTness. But the town was baffled nearly as liiuch in its marine commerce, as after LUGAR. 380 LUING. wards in its repeated efforts at manufacture; and at the epoch of the Kevohition it had connected with its port just one vessel, of SO tons burden, and £250 estimated vahie. In 1739, the estate of LufFness was bought by the Earl of Hopetoun for £8,350. See Aberlady. LUFFN ESS-HOUSE. See Haddixgtonshuik. LUGAK, a post-oihce village in the parish of Auclunleck, Ayrshire. It was built chiefly for the accommodation of the work-people connected with the recently erected Lui:ar iron-works. The mag- nificent viaduct, called the Lugar viaduct, on the line of the Glasgow and South-western railway, over the river Lugar, lias been noticed in our article on Cumnock. Populaiou in 1861, 7.53. LUGAK-WATER, a brief but beautiful rivulet of the district of Kyle, Ayrshire. Its principal head-streams, Glenmore and Bella waters, rise in the east of the parishes of C)ld Cumnock and Auch- inleck, and run each about 5j or 6 miles, not far distant from each other, to a junction f of a mile above Logan-house. The united stream runs 8 miles westward, between Auchinleck on the north and Old Cumnock on the south, to a confluence with the Ayr, near Barskimming. In its piogress it passes the villages of Cumnock and Ochiltree, and the superb mansions of Dumfries and Auchin- leck. Its banks are sometimes deep ravines, wooded to the top, — sometimes high perpendicular walls of rock, or naked, overhanging, and menacing crags, — sometimes gentle slopes, or undulating declivities, waving with trees, — and sometimes a series of little green peninsulas, curvingly cut asunder by the sinuosities of its channel. A round hillock, called the Moat, nearly isleted by the stream, and situated above the village of Cumnock, commands an exqui- site view over a considerable extent of the pictur- esque and romantic banks. The rivulet, at its junction with the Ayr, seems equal to it in volume of water. Hence Burns' epithet of ' stately Lugar.' LUGGATE (The), a rivulet of the parish of Stow, Edinburghshire. It rises in two small head- waters on the north and the south sides of the Sole, in the soutli-west extremity of the parish, close on the boundary with Peebles-shire ; and running first 3J miles eastward, and next 3J miles south-east- ward, falls into Gala water at Haugh-head, a mile below the village of Stow. It is throughout a cold mountain- stream, fed by many naked little rills, and subject to sudden'and turbulent overflowings. LUGGIE (The), a rivulet of Lanarkshire, and the detached part of Dumbartonshire. Issuing from a small lake on the boundary between the counties, near the south-east extremity of the parish of Cumbernauld, it runs 6^ miles westward along the boundary, augmented in its progress by four or five feeders from Lanarkshire. Assuming now a direction a little north of west, it flows 3§ miles along the interior of the parish of Kirkimilloch ; and then debouching, runs a mile northward, be- neath an aqueduct of the Forth and Clyde canal, and past the town of Kirkintilloch to the Kelvin. Excepting for a brief space in the parish of Kirkin- tilloch, where it blushes into beauty, it is a dull, uninteresting stream, sluggish in its motion, and ditch-like in its banks. LUGGIE (The), a rivulet of Linlithgowshire, of brief course under its proper name, but formed of two considerable head-waters. Its farthest source is Bog water. This rises in the parish of Bathgate, 1 J mile north-east of the town ; makes a circuit of 6 miles round the south, when, running in a north- erly direction, it passes the west side of the town ; and now flowing deviously If mile farther, takes the name of BallencriefF-water ; and, under this name, it runs li mile north-westward, on the boun- d irj' between Torphichen and Bathgate, to the point whei-e it contributes to form the Luggie. Bar- b.xuchlaw, the other head-stream, rises in Lanark- siiire ; and, excepting biief sinuosities, and a mile of due northerly course immediately before joining tlie BallencriefT, moves uniformly toward the north- cast. Alter flowing '2f miles iu Lanarkshire, it runs fur 3 furlongs into Torphichen, then describes for 2 miles the boundary between that parish and Lanarkshire, and then, over 3| miles to its termina- tion, divides Torphichen from Bathgate. The united stream of the two head-wafers, now strictly the Luggie, commences half-a-mile north of Bridge- castle, and has a course of less than a mile north- eastwai-d to the Avon not far from Crawhill. Its length, to the head of Bog water, is 10 miles, and to the head of Barbauchlaw-burn 10^. LUGTON, a village in the parish of Dalkeith, Edinburghshire. The tract around it was anciently a separate barony from that of Dalkeith, having a fortalice of its own, and belonging to a branch of the family of Douglas. It was annexed to the parish of Dalkeith so late as 1633, and became the property of Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch, in 1693. The village, till lately, was inhabited chiefly by colliers. Population, 230. Houses, 34. LUGTON (The), a rivulet partly of Renfrew- shire, but principally of Cunningham, in Ayrshire. Excepting very numerous but not large curvatures, and 1^ mile of westerly course immediately above its termination, its uniform direction is south-west. It rises half-a-mile north of Loch-Libo, in the parish of Neilston, Renfrewshire, and, after traversing that lake, and making a distance from it of 1^ mile, it enters Ayrshire, divides Beith and Kilwinning on its right bank from Dunlop and Irvine on its left, and falls into the Garnock 2 miles from the town of Irvine, and the same distance, in a straight line, from Irvine harbour. For a mile above its mouth it traverses the richly-wooded pleasure-grounds of Eglinton-castle, and f of a mile above its mouth has that princely mansion on its brink. LUI (The), a head-stream of the Dee, descending from Benmacdhu, through Glenlui, and the forest of Mar, and joining the Dee on its northern side. about 3 miles below the linn of Dee. LUICHART (Loch), a lake, 6 miles long, and generally ^ a mile broad, in the parish of Contin, Ross-shire. It is formed by an expansion of a head-stream of the Conan ; and the road from Pool- ewe to Inverness is carried along its left bank. LUIN (Loch), a lake on the mutual border of Ross-shire and Inverness-shire, sending off a slug- gish, tortuous stream north-eastward to the river Moriston. It has a marshy character; and the glen which it occupies is sequestered and pastoral, and extends nearly on a line with Glen-Garry and Glen-Moriston. LUINA (Loch), an occasional name of LjcIi- Avich in Argyleshire. LUING, an island, with a post-ofHce station of its own name, in the parish of Kilbrandon, Argyle- shire. It is 6^ miles in length, and rarely more than 1 in breadth. It is separated on the north from Seil by a strait scarcely 300 yards wide ; and it thence extends due southward at a distance of from 1^ to 3^ miles from the coast of Nether Lorn, and the entrance of Loch-Melfort, with the islands of Torsay and Shuna upon its east side. As group- ed with these two islands and with Seil, it exhibits an extensive range of picturesque and pleasing scenery. The surface is in general low, though never absolutely flat, along the coasts and in the southern district; but, as it recedes northward, it LUING. 381 LUNAN. rises into many rocky eminences and cliffs, shows a slijiht tendency toward tlie formation of two dis- tinct ranges, and attains an extreme altitude of be- tween 600 and 700 i'eet. Clay-slate forms the great mass of the island, and has been veiy extensively quarried for roofing slates. Several hundreds of acres have recently been reclaimed; and a remark- ably fine farmstead lias been erected. Population in 1861, 521. Houses, 135. LUING (Sound of), a strait along the west side of the southei'n half of Luing island. It measures 4 miles in length, and li in mean breadth; and divides Luing and Ardluing from Scarba, Lunga, Ormsa, and one or two islets. LUKE'S (St.). See Edinburgh and Lanark. LUMPHANAN, a parish, containing a post-office station of its own name, in the Kincardine-O'Neil district of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Leochel, Tough, Kincardine-O'Neil, Birse, Aboyne, and Coull. Its length south-south-westward is 6 miles; and its greatest breadth is 4 miles. Its south end is bounded by the river Dee ; tiie greater part of its east side is drained southv/ard by Lumphanan-burn, to the Dee ; and its north end, to the extent of about 2 miles, is within the basin or river system of the Don. Its surface, in a general view, consists partly of low, valley-ground, and partly of flanking hills. The name Lumphanan signifies the ' bai'e little valley;' but the valley, though a 'little valley' still, is no longer 'bare,' being well cultivated and highly productive. The loftiest hills are Mealmead and Craiglicli, the latter of which rises steeply for about a mile from the arable land. The soil varies from a deep loam on the low grounds to a thin sand on the acclivities. The predominant rock is granite. About 2,770 acres are in tillage; about 4.300 are pastoral or waste ; and about 550 are imder wood. There are eight principal landowners. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £4,126. There are a few remains of ancient fortifications, and some cairns, one of which, about a mile north from the church, on the brow of a hill, is alleged to be that of the usurper Macbeth, who, according to tradition, was here slain by Macdufi", in single combat, as he fled northwards, and was buried under this cairn, though Shakspeare makes Dunsinnan the scene. Indeed several places lay claim to this 'honour;' but Lord Hailes, upon the authority of Andrew Wynton, attributes the event to Lumphanan. The parish is traversed by the road from Aberdeen to Tarland. Population in 1831, 957; in 1861, 1,251. Houses, 226. This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine-O'- Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Sir William Forbes, BaVt. Stipend, £153 18s. 3d.; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with about £20 fees, and a share in the Dick bequest. The parish church was built in 1851, and contains 500 sittings. There is a Free church, with an attendance of about 200; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £73 2s. 8d. There are a non-parochial school at Campliill, and a public library at Burnside. LUMSDEN, an ancient manor in the parisli of Coldingiiam, Bei-wickshire, belonging to a family of that name so early as the reign of David I. Tlie ancient peel of Lumsden probably occupied the site of the present farm-house of East Lumsden ; but in the early part of the 14th century the Lumsdens re- moved their family-abode to Blanerne on the banks of the Whitadder, where its picturesque remains still exist. LUMSDEN. Aberdeenshire. See Leith-Lumspen. LUNAN (The), a river of Forfarshire. Issuing from a spring called Lunan-well, in the parish of Forfar, it runs 2J miles north-eastward to Rescobie- loch, half the distance in the interior of Forfar, and the other half on the boundary with Kescobie. While traversing tlie lake, and for lialf-a-mile fur- ther, it bisects Kescobie; over the next 2 J miles, during which it exp:inds into Balgaves-loch, it di- vides that parish, on its riglit bank, from Aberlemno and the northern section of Guthrie on its left; and thence to the German ocean, except for 3 miles, where it cuts off a wing of Inverkcilor, it has Kirk- den and Inverkeilor on the right, and Guthrie, Kin- nell, and Lunan on the left. Its course, for 3i miles above its embouchure, is north-easterly; but, from entering Rescobie-loch to that point, it is due east- ward. Its length is 16J miles; and its terminating point is at Lunan-bay in the vicinity of Redcastle. It flows with a clear current, and abounds with trout and pike. LUNAN (The), a rivulet of Perthshire, formed by various picturesque rills emptying themselves into the Loch of Lows, in the parish of Caputli. Speedily after its efllux from that lake it becomes lost for f of a mile in the circular loch of Butter- stone. Issuing thence it runs 2 miles eastward, and 1^ south-eastward — nearly all this distance in the parish of Cluiiie — and for another f of a mile expands into Loch-C'lunie. A mile farther east it is once more a lake, or, for IJ mile, is lost in Loch- Drumellie. Running now 3§ miles south-eastward, it divides Kinloch and Blairgowrie on its left bank from Clunie, Letbendy, and Caputh on its right, and fiills into the Isla, 2 miles east of Meiklour. LUNAN, a parish in the east coast of Forfarshire. Its postal communication is through Chance-Inn, adjacent to its southern boundary. It is bounded by Lunan-bay, and by the parishes of Inverkeilor, Kinncll, Craig, and Maryton. Its length eastward is 2f miles; and its mean breadth is IJ mile. A small rapid rill, leaping along in cataracts some- times 20 or 30 feet deep, and traversing a beautifully romantic dell, called Buckie-den. occasionally per- pendicular on its sides, and generally gemmed with flowers and shrubs, forms its boundary-line on the north. Lunan-water, limpid in its waters and pebbly in its strand, traces the };oundary on the south. The beach of the marine boundary on the east will be noticed in the next article. The surface rises rapidly from the sea and the Lunan till it attains a height of nearly 400 feet above sea-level, and then recedes in a scarcely perceptible ascent, almost in a table-land to the further boundary. Seen from the Inverkeilor side of the Lunan near the sen, it has the appearance of a richly-cultivated hill-side, with a fine southern exposure. Its summit-land com- mands an extensive prospect of the German ocean and the coast. The soil, for a brii f way on the shore, is sandy; on the lower declivities, is deep and rich ; on the higher grounds, is frequently sliallow; and on tlie aveiage, is good and fertile. The arable and the uncultivated grounds are in the proportion to each other of about 7 to 2. Trap rock has been quarried for building, but good sandstone was re- cently discovered. The chief landowner is the Earl of Nortliesk. and there are two others. The only mansion is Lunan-housc. The estimated value of raw produce in 1836 was £6.394. Assessed property in I860, £2,624 15s. Various localities have names indicating the ancient vicinity — supposed to be at Redcastle — of a royal residence, See Inverkeii.ok. W.nlter ^lill, or as some historians call liim. Sir Walter Mill, the last Scottish martyr in the cause of the Reformation, was priest of Lunan during 20 veais preceding his renunciation of popery. Ho was burnt at St. Andrews, in the 82d year of his age. Alexander Peddie, nearly the last surviving prie«t of compelled prelacy, and allowed by sufleraiice lo LUNAN-BAY. 382 LUNDIE. retain his cure alter the abolition of Episcopacy, was minister of Lunan till 1713, and bequeathed to the parish some plate for the coinniunion-service, on the singular condition that it should be lent when re- quired to any Episcopalian congregation vrithin a distance of 7 "miles. Tlie parisli is traversed by the road from Arbroath to Montrose. Populatiou in 1831, 298; in 1861, 259. Houses, 58. This parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £15S Os. lOd.; glebe. £15. Schoolmaster's salary now is £48, with £25 fees, and £15 other emoluments. The parish church was erected in 1842, and is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the parish. The ancient uame of the parish was Inverlunan ; and its church, previous to the Refor- mation, was a vicarage of the monks of Arbroath. LUNAN-BAY, a beautiful semicircular indenta- tion of the Gertnan ocean, 5 miles in extent of coast line, in the parishes of Inverkeilor, Lunan. ilaryton, and Craig. Forfarshire. Its coast for a mile at each extremity is bold and rocky, occasionally exhibiting pj-ramidal columns upwards of 100 feet in height; and, over the intermediate or central 3 miles, in the middle of which enters Lunan-water, it is a low sandy beach, slightly cliequered with small stones, regularly flanked with bent-covered knolls, and im- mediately overlooked by the high grounds of Lunan. Beautiful varieties of sea-shell, and occasionally some jasper and onyx gems, are found along the strand. The bay has a fine sandy bottom, and affords safe anchorage in any storm except from the north-east and east. LUNANHEAD, a village in the parish of Forfar. Population, 191. LUXASTIXG. a parish, now united to Nesting, in Shetland. It has a church of its own, which was repaired about 1840. See Nesting. LUNCARTY, a suppressed parish and a village in the Strathmore district of Perthshire. The par- ish was anciently a rectory, is now incorporated with Redgorton, and forms the north-east division of its main body. The village stands near the Tay. 4 miles north of Perth, and has about 230 inhabitants. Luncarty bleachfield has long been reputed the most extensive in Britain. Its grounds comprehend up- wards of 130 acres. The water-power by which the works are driven includes the whole volume of the streams Ordie and Shochie. carried along an artificial canal, and also a considerable volume led out from the Tay by means of a dam run nearly across the river. Four falls of the water-power are effected, and impel 24 sets of beetles. The works bleach about two millions of yards of linen-cloth in the year, and employ upwards of 120 hands. Luncarty is famous in connexion with the de- cisive overthrow of the Danes, about the year 990, by Kenneth III., romanticallj- aided by the peasant- ancestor of the noble family of Hay. The scene of conflict is on the Tay, 2 miles above the confluence with it of the Almond. It was marked till the end of last century by manv little tumuli, through which the farmers long shrunk to drive the plough ; and it has still two monumental stones, one of which, four feet high, bears the name of Denmark. The narra- tive of the battle, as given by Boethius. Fordoun, and Buchanan, has been said by Lord Kaimes to possess ' every mark of fiction ;' but it by no means exceeds possibility, and, vouched by both historiographers and some monuments, is probably an instance of the romance of real occurrences excelling that of the novelist's idle fancies. The Danes, strong in numbers and fisry in re- solve, landed on the coast of Angus, razed the town and castle of Montrose, and moved across Angus and along Strathmore, strewing their path with desola- tion, and menacing Scotland with bondage. Ken- neth the King heard at Stirling of their descent, and hastened to take post on iloncrieff-hill, in the pen- insula of the Earn and the Tay ; but while there organizing the raw troops, whom he had swept to- gether, and waiting the arrival of forces suited to his exigency, he learned that Bertha or ancient Perth was already besieged. Arraying what soldiery he had, and debouching so as to get to northward of the enemy, he marched to Luncarty. saw the Danes posted on an eminence to the south, and next day taunted and provoked them to a trial of strength on the intervening level ground. The rush of the Danes was dreadful ; it shook the plu- mage from the wings of the Scottish army, and seemed about to transfi.x the main bodj'; but it was keenl}- observed by three puissant ploughmen, father and sons, of the name of Hay, or Haia, who were at work in a field on the opposite side of the liver, and were bold enough to attempt to infuse their own courage into the faltering troops. Seizing the yoke of the plough, and whatever similar tools were at hand, they crossed the Tay at a ford, and amving just at a crisis when the wings had given way, and the ceutre was wavering, they shouted shame and death against the recreant who should flee, and pre- cipitated themselves with such fury on the foremost of the Danes, as to gain the Scots a moment for ral- lying at a spot, still called Tui-n-again hillock. Hay, the father, as if he had been superhuman, had no difiiculty in drawing some clans to follow in his wake ; and plunging with these down a deep ravine, while the battle was renewed on ground at a little distance from the original scene of action, he lushed upon the Danes in flank and rear, and threw them into confusion. A band of peasants, who were lurk- ing near or drawn together from curiosity, now raised a loud shout of jubilation, and were supposed by the Danes to be a new armj'. The invaders in- stantly ceased to fight ; they became a mingled mass of routed men ; and, not excepting their leaders and their king himself, they either were hewn down by the sword, or perished in the river. An assembly of the states, held next day at Scone, decreed to give the peasant-conqueror the choice of the hound's course or the falcon's flight of land, in reward of bis bravery. Hay having chosen the latter, the falcon was let oft' from a hill overlooking Perth, and flew eastward to a point a mile south of the house of Errol, alighting there on a stone which is still called ' the Hawk's stane.' All the intervening lands were given in property to Hay's family ; but they have since been either alienated, or parcelled out among various lines of descendants. LUNDERSTONE. See Inxekkip. LUNDIE, a parish on the south-west border of Forfarshire. It contains a small post-ofllce village of its own name, 6 miles south-east of Cupar- Angus, and 9 north-west of Dundee. It is bounded by Perthshire, and by Kettins, Newtyle, and Aucli- terhouse. Its length east -south -eastward is 3 miles; and its greatest breadth is 2 miles. A part of the range of the Sidlaw hills, rising to an altitude of about 850 feet above sea-level, extends along its north and west sides, separating it from Strathmore, and giving it a sheltered and sequestered appear- ance. The district south and east of the hills swells into beautiful undulations, is diversified with four lakes, and has an average elevation of about 550 feet above the level of the sea. Ex- cepting plantatitins, and the tops of the hills, tiie whole surface is arable. The soil is various, but for the most part is of a deep, free, black colour, kindly and productive. The largest of the lakes io LUNDIE-HILL. 583 LUSS. I of a. mile in length; and this and another emit head-streams of the Dichty. The Earl of Camper- down is proprietor of almost the whole of the parish ; and Ids lordship's family took their original territo- rial designati(m from it, and have still their buiy- place in its church-yard. The real rental in 1865 was X3.59S. Lundie is united to Fowlis-Easter, these two parishes forming one charge. See Fow- lis-Eastku. Population of Lundie in 1831, 45G; in 1851, 450. Houses. 93. Population of the united parish in 1831, 778; in 1861, 442. Houses, 85. The united parish of Lundie and Fowlis-Easter is in the presbytery of Dundee, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Pation, the Earl of Camperdown. Stipend, X201 Os. lid.; glebe, £9. There are two parish churches, distant from each other about 4 miles; and the minister officiates in them on alter- nate Sabbaths. Tlie church of Lundie is a building of considerable antiquity, well repaired about the year 1847, and containing about 300 sittings. The ciuirch of Fowlis-Easter is a very ancient structui'c, in pure Saxon-Gothic style, with features clialleng- ing the enthusiastic notice of antiquaries, and beautifully refitted in 1842, with about 350 sittings. There are two parish schools ; and tlie master of each has a salary of about £45, with about £25 fees. There is a subscription library in Fowlis-Easter. Cattle fairs, of no great importance, are held in Lundie in June and August. LUNDIE-HILL, a wild, bleak. Highland height, in the upper part of the parish of Strickathrow, Forfarshire. LUNDIX. See Largo and Fifeshihe. LUNDINMILL, a village in the parish of Largo, Fifeshire. Population, 593. LUNGA, an island on the west side of the sound of Luing, in Argyleshire. It e.\tends about 2h miles byf of a mile north and south; and is separated at its ends by very narrow straits, from Ormsa and Scarba. The strait at the south end, between it and Scarba, is obstructed on the east by a rocky islet, and has a tumbling and impetuous tidal cuiTent, quite as violent and grandly scenic as that of the far more celebrated Corrievrekin. Lunga consists of a long irregular hilly ridge, generally less than 500 feet above sea-level, but occasionally rising to nearly 1.000. This ridge is disposed in uneven, rocky, and often naked eminences, interspersed with patches of boggy ground and heath, as well as with occasional coppices of birch and alder ; and it admits neither level ground nor more than tiny pendicles of such declivity as can be cultivated, even with the spade. On the western side, it is almost entirely bare and abrupt; and on the eastern side, it is skirted by shelving rocks, but descends somewhat more gently, and displays a greater extent of verdure. Quartz rock occupies the western side, and clay slate the eastern, both intermingled with other schistose substances, and traversed by numerous trap veins. From the different eminences of the island, the views are extremely interesting; on the east the glassy surface of the" sound of Luing smoothly gliding along in circling eddies like a majestic river; and, on the soiith, the vexed and foaming current of tlie mimic of Corrievrekin, overhung "by the grand form of Scarba. stooping down in one vast yet varied mass, to rocky shores and a wooded amphitheatre, and finely contrasted with the long low lines of the op- jiosite coasts, and with the numberless islets and rocks wliich adorn and diversify the almost retiform sea. Population in 1861, 8. Houses, 2. LUNNAFIRTH, the belt of sea which separates the south end of Yell from the mainland of Shet- land. It is a continuation south-eastward of Yell- sound. LUNNASTING. See Lunasting. LURG-HILL. See Grange, Banffshire. LUPvGIE-CEAIGS. See Stitciiei,. LUSCAR. See Caunock. LUSRAGAN (The), a streamlet running north- \vard to the sea, in the parish of Muckaim, Argyle- shiie. LUSS, a parisli, containing a post-office village of its own name, in Dumbai-tonshire. It is bounded on the north by Arrochar; on tlie east by Loch-Lomond; on the south by lionhill and Cardross; and on the west by Row and Loch-Long. Its length south- ward is 8 J miles; and its breadth is from 2J to 5 miles. Alpine mountains, some of them towering aloft to nearly 3,000 feet above the level of the sea. spread out their bases over much the larger part of the area. But the congeries of mountains, even where most compact, is cloven down into glens of such beauty and picturesqueness as quite to relieve the rugged aspect of the landscape. Along the northern boundar_v, and for a brief way in the inte- rior, is Glen-Douglas, 4i miles in length, traversed all the way by the little stream which gives it name, and opening at Inveruglas, or its mouth, upon the ferry across Loch-Lonmnd to Rowerdennau at the foot of Benlomond. Two and a quarter, and 3i miles southward, arc Glenniaachan and Glennia- curn, converging into the sylvan glen of Luss, and aggregately with the latter curving 6 miles south- eastward, and traversed by the two head-waters and the united volume of the streandet Luss to the village. Farther south, Glenfinias, watered by its cognominal brook, stretches 3 miles south-eastward, and then runs, in a wooded dress, 1^ mile eastward to Loch-Lomond, opposite Inchmurrin. Xear the southern boundary, tlie lower part of GleniVuin, noted as the scene of a sanguinary fight in 1603, be- tween the clans of ^Macgregor and Colquhoun, goes 2^ miles eastward and north-eastward to a point 1^ m"ile soutli of the termination of the former glen. The only low-lying surface stretches along Loch- Lomond from tiie southern boundary to Ross-Dhu, the seat of Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., 2 miles south of the village; and is partly level, partly a waving plain, and partly a regular ascent, which soon rises up in acclivit3','and becomes lost in the aspirings of the mountains. Many hundred acres, on the low grounds, up the sides and hollows of the glens, and along the whole brink of Loch-Lomoiid, are covered with Wood, much of it natural, and very beautifully grouped. From the southern boundary to the village a series of fine little headlands run out into Loch- Lomond; and north of the village the surface rise.!, 9 miles north -north -east of Helensburgji, and 13 north-north-west of Dumbar- ton. Its situation, on the margin of Loch-Lomond, at the base of Strone-hill, in the vicinity of three of the finest islands in the lake, is veiy picturesque. About two years ago. Sir James Colquhoun made known a resolution to sweep away its rude strag- gling huts, which had fonned the main bulk of it, and to rebuild it with neat cottages on a regular, specific plan. Its own character, therefore, will be put into keeping with the beauty of its site. It has a good inn, and is much frequented by tasteful tourists. The Loch -Lomond steamers call at it, both in going up the lake and in going down. Fairs are held in ft on the 24th day of May, old style, on the 3d Tuesday of August, on the 14th day of October, old style, and on the 7th day of No- vember, old style. The population of the village is about 260. Population of the parish in 1831 , 1,181 ; in 1861, 831. Houses, 150. Assessed property in 1860, £4,906. This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Stipend, £268 Os. Ud.; glebe, £17. Unappropriated teinds, £489 9s. 7d. School- master's salary now is £50, with from £9 to £12 fees. The parish churcli was built in 1771, and contains 500 sittings. There is a Free church, with an attendance of about 100; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £143 6s. 9d. There are three non-parochial schools and a small public library; and two of the schools have exterior aid. The parish of Luss, previous to the Reformation, was a rectory, and between 1429 and that epoch was a prebend of the cathedral of Glasgow, served by the prebendary's vicar pensioner. The ancient parish was greatly more extensive than the modem. In 1621, the forty pound lands of Buchanan, on the east side of Loch-Lomond, were detached from it, and incorporated with Inchcailliach. the modern Buchanan; in 1659, the lands of four proprietors, at the south end of the lake, were annexed to Bonhill; and, in 1658, all the extensive territory on the nortli, which now constitutes Arrochar, was made independent. But, on the contrary, the lands ol Caldannach, Presstelloch, and Conglens, which an- ciently belonged to Inchcailliach, have, in modern times, been united to Luss ; and the lands of Ban- nachrae, within the limits of Row, are attached to it quoad sacra. There were anciently chapels in Luss- glen, at Rossdhu, and on the lands of Buchanan. LUSSA (The), a rivulet of the island of Mull, Argyleshire. It issues from a chain of lakes in the parish of Torosay, and runs 2 miles north-eastward and 4 south-eastward to the sea at Loch-Spelve. Its current is rapid, and its volume considerable. LUSTYLAW. See Damheap. LUTHER (The), a stream of Kincardineshire. It rises among the Grampians, on the north border of the parish of Fordoun, and runs 5 miles south- ward through the interior of that parLsh, and 6 miles south-westward through the middle of the parishes of Laurencekirk and ]\Iarykirk, to a confluence with the North Esk at a point about If mile above the villasre of Marykirk. LUTIIERMUIR, a post-office village in the parish of Marykirk, Kincardineshire. It is inhabited prin- cipally by hand-loom weavers. The tract around it, from which it takes its name, was formerly a barren moor, which the writer of the Old Statistical Account did not think worth his notice; and even some time after it became a seat of population, it was a resort of the destitute and abandoned from many surrounding parishes. The village has un- dergone great vicissitudes, consequent on the pre- carious employment of its inhabitants. Population, 868. LUTHRIE, a post-oflice village on the east side of the parish of C'reich, Fifeshire. It is pleasantly situated, about 2^ miles from the frith of Tay, and about 4i miles north-north-west of Cupar. It has a brewery and two meal mills, and is inhabited chiefly by weavers and artizans. Population, 163. Houses. 27. LYBSTER. a post-office vilLige in the parish of Latheron, Caithness-shire. It stands at the head of Amherst-bay, a little east of the great north road, and 13 miles south-west by south of Wick, It con- tains a chapel of ease and a Free church. Fairs are held in it twice a-year. A tract around it was temporarily a quoad sacra parish, constituted by the ecclesiastical authorities; and this, in 1841, had 2,699 inhabitants. Pop. of tlie village in 1861, 745. LYDIAMILL. See Daiksie. LYDOCH (Loch), a lonely sheet of water in the moor of Rannoch, in the north-west corner of Perthshire. The distance from the inn at King's- house to the western extremity of the lake, is about 6 miles; from the eastern, or lower extremity, to the head of Loch-Rannoch. it is much the same. Loch-Lydoch is about 7 miles in length, and about a mile in breadth. About 4 miles from its eastern end it separates into two distinct branches of almost equal size and length — the one of which stretches almost due west, wliile the other takes a south-west direction : thus giving it the appearance of a huge fork, with the handle towards Loeh-Rannoch. The moor of Rannoch and Loch-Lydoch are described by Dr. M'Culloch in his usual caustic yet graphic manner: '' Pray imagine the moor of Rannoch ; for who can describe it? A great level, (I hope the word will pardon the abuse of it,) 1,000 feet above the sea, 16 or 20 miles long, and nearly as much wide, bounded by mountains so distant as scarcely to form an apprehensible boundary; open, silent, solitary; an ocean of blackness and bogs, a world before chaos; not so good as chaos, since its ele- ments are only rocks and bogs, with a few pools of LYLESLAND. 585 LYNEDOCH. water-bop^s of the Styx, atiti waters of Cocytus, with one great, long, sinnous, flat, dreary, black, Ache- ron-like lake. Loch-Lydoch, near which arose tlirec fir-trees, just enough to remind ine of the vacuity of all the rest. Not a sheep nor a cow; even the crow shunned it, and wheeled his croaking fliglit far off to better regions. If there was a blade of grass anywhere, it was concealed by the dark sienis of the black, black, muddy sedges, and by the yel- low, melancholy rush of the bogs." LYLESLAND, a district on the south side of Paisley, and within the parliamentary boundaries of that burgh, inhabited chiefly by weavers, and inost of its houses are of recent erection. LYMVILG. See Lynwilg. LYMYCLEUCH-BURN, a rivulet of the parish of Teviothead, Boxburghshire. It rises at tlie Pikethowe, on the boundary with Dumfries-shire, and runs about 6 miles northward to the Teviot below Binns. Its course is nearly parallel with that of the Teviot. LYNCHaT, a village near the south-western ex- tremity of the parish of Alvie, Inverness-shire. Population, 73. Houses, 17. LYNDA LE. See Smzort. LY/TE (The), a river of Peebles-shire, the next in local importance to the Tweed. It rises in va- rious little head-waters close on the boundary with Edinburghshire ; one of them on Weatherlaw, a very brief distance from the sources of the North Esk, and the Water of Leith ; another of them on West Cairn-law. the largest of the Pentlands, ],8U0 feet high; and several of them di'nining Cauldstane- slap, a grand mountain-pass, or place of egress, from Tweeddale to the north. The Lyne, receiving in its progress Baddingsgill-burn, West-water, and numerous mountain-rills, runs 5f miles south-east- ward through Linton, 2 miles southward between Linton on the west and Newlands on the east, and .Sf in the same direction through Newlands. It is now joined, half-a-mile below Drochil-castle, by Tarth-water, which bears along with it the tribu- tary waters of a branch of the Medwin, on its right bank, runs 4 miles south-eastward between Stobo and Manor on the right, and Newlands, Lyne, and Peebles on the left, and falls into the Tweed 2| miles in a straight line above Peebles. Its entire length of course is 15^ miles, or, including sinuosi- ties, about 20. The Lyne is a good trouting-stream. LYNE (The), Fifeshire. See Dunfermi-i.ne. LYNE AND MEGGET, two parishes in Peebles- shire, widely apart in position, but mutually identi- cal in parochial interests. The post-town is Peebles. Lyne is nearly circular, with a small square north- erly projection ; and is bounded on the uorth by Newlands, on the north-east by Harehope-burn, which divides it from Eddlestone, on the east and south-east by Meldon-burn, which divides it from Peebles, on the south and south-west by Lyue-water, which divides it from Stobo. and on the west by Howe-burn and Stevenston-hill, which divide it from Newlands. The circle is 2| miles in diameter, and the square projection J of a mile deep. A stripe of low ground stretches along the Lyne, sharp and gravelly in its soil, and bleak and naked in its as- pect, but plied to a certain extent with the plough. The rest of the area is upland and strictly pastoral, once covered with natural wood, but now adorned with scarcely a tree. In the soutli-west, overlook- ing the Lyne, are vestiges of a Eonian camp, 6 acres in extent, and occupving a singularly jidvantageons site. The Glasgow .ind'Peebles turnpike runs along the Lvne. — Megget is distant geographically 8 miles, liut aiong the shortest practicable path 14 miles. It h'es on the sonthern verge of the county; and is bonnderl on the north by Manor, on tlie east and sonth-eist by Selkirkshire, on tin- south-west by Dmiifries-sliire, on the west by Tweedsmuir, and on the north-west bj' Drummelzier. It measures nenrly 6 miles from east to west, an I between 6 and 7 i'roiii north to south. St. Mary's Loch, tor 1 mile on the soutli-east, belongs to it in common with Yarrow. Megget-water rises in tlie extreme west, and. running due east to St. Mary's Loch, cuts the parish into almost equal parts. The ground is very hilly. The summits and higher acclivities are clotlied with heath and coarse grass; but tlie lower slopes afford excellent pasture. Moorfowl abotnids. A species of eagle, from the heights on tlie boundary with Dumfries-shii'e, sometimes carries of a young laml), even in view of the shepherd. Two old towers, whose ruins s'ill exist, seem to have accom- modated the Scottish kings when hunting in the forest. Traces exist of several ancient roads stretch- ing in various directions, and probably cut out lor the accommodation of the royal hunters. On Glen- gabbern-burn, a ti'ibutary of Megget-water, are some traces of a search for gold, which Boethius. Buchan- an, and other writers, say was successful. The heritors of the two parishes are the Earl of Wemyss, Murray of Ilenderland, and I'urdie of Lvre-Town- head. The estimated value of raw pioduce in 1834 was £6.542. Assessed property in 1860, £3,48:i. Population in 1831, 156; in 1861, 134. Houses, 20. The unitcil parish is in the presbytery of Peebles, and svnod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, tlie Earl of Weinyss. Stipend, £153 9s. Id. ; glebe, £25. The parishes were united in 1620. Lyne was origi- nally a ch iplainry subordinate to Stobo, but afte ■- warils became a rectory. The church is a solid structure, built previous to the Reformation, but repaired in 1831. and containing 70 sittings. There is also an edifice in Megget, fitted up partly as a church with 70 sittings, and partly as a school- house, and erected about the y^ar 1804. The an- cient church of Megget is now a ruin at Ilenderland, surrounded by a cemetery, which is still in use. There are two parochial schools ; and the salary of the Lyne master is now £50, with £15 fees, and £2 10s. other emoluments, — that of the Megget master, £25, with £4 fees, and £1 15s. other emolu- ments. LYNEDOCH, an estate, on the river Almond, in the palish of Meth ven, Perthshire. It. was the pro- perty of General Thomas Graham, one of the heroes of tiie Peninsular war. and the victor of Barossa; and it gave him tlie title of Baron, on his elevation to the peerage, at tlie conclusion of the war. Lyne- doch-house, in which his lordship occasionally re- sided till the close of his long life, is very beautifully situated on the left bardi of the Almond, If- mile north-east of Methven village. About J a-niile north west of Lvnedoch-house, in a secluded spot, called Dronach-'haugh, at the foot of a beautiful bank or brae of the same name on the Almond, is the grave of "Bessir Bell and Mary Gray,' celebrated in pathetic song. Bessie I5ell. according to the com- mon tradition, was daughter of the laird of Kinvaid, and ]\Iarv Gray of the laird of Lynedoch. Mutually attached'in sti'ong and tender friendship, they lived tocrether at Lvnedoeh when the plague Inoke out in 1645; and to" avoid it, they retired to a romantic spot, called Burn-braes, on "the estate of Lynedoch. and there, in a bower or temporary dwelling, lived in complete seclusion. A young gentleman of IVrth visited them in their solitude, for the purpose, it is said, of supidying them with food ; but unhappily he communicated to them the very pestilence from which they had fled. Falling victims to the disease, they were, according to the usage of the period, re- 2 p. LYNWILG. 386 MxVCHAR. fuy«ewis. H^e Seafokth (Loch). MARE8T0NE, a village in the parishes of Res- cobie and Aberlemno, Forfarshire. Population, 26. Houses, 7. MARGARET'S HOPE (St.), a harbour and a post-office village in the island of South Ronaldshay, Orkney. The harbour is a small bay, projecting into the middle of the north coast of the island, and opening into the sound which separates South Ron- aldshay from Bunay. It is one of the safest and best haibours for small vessels in the kingdom. A fishery here, which drew regular visits from London lobster smacks, and engaged the capital of different English companies, was, for many years, the only regular fishery in Orkney. The village stands at the head of the harbour, and is the seat of an indus- trious population, chiefly engaged in fisheries. It has one of the best inns in the south of Orkney, and is a prominent link in the chain of mail com- munication between Orkney and the mainland. Population, 2t30. Houses, 38. MARGARKT'S-LAW. See Largs. MARK (The). See Esk (The North), Forfar- shire. MARKET-KXOWE. See Longforgan. MARKIE (The), a rivulet, rising on the east side of the eastern screen of Glenfiddich, traversing a wing of the parish of Mortlach, and running into the Deveron near the house of Edenglassie, in Banffshire. MARKIE (The), a small mountain affluent of the Spey, in the parish of Lagcran, Inverness-shire. MARKINCH, a parish, comprising a main body and a detached section, in the Kirkcaldy district of Fifeshire. It contains the post-office villages of Markinch, Balgonie, Thornton, and "VMnd^'gates, the villages of Woodside, Inverleven, Balcurrie, Haughmill, and Burns, and part of the village oi Star. The main body is bounded by Kettle, Ken- noway, "Wemyss, Dj'sart, Kinglassie, and Falkland. The detached section lies 1 J mile east of the nearest part of the main bod}% and is situated on the frith of Forth, and on the right bank of the river Leven, between Wemyss and Scoonie. The entire parish measures about 7 miles in length from north to south, and from 2 to 5 miles in breadth from east to west. " Its general aspect is varied and picturesque. From the I^omond hills, as a background on the north, it slopes gently towards the south and east. The parish is intersected by four fertile valleys, watered by as many streams, which unite towards the eastern extremity. The valleys are separated by corresponding ridges of low hills ; each chain rising gradually above the other in the direction of the summit-level. Jsor are thriving and e.Ktensive plantations wanting to heighten the natural bean- tics of the landscape, — and the varied succession of hill and dale. The proportior. of wood is consider- able; and being principally of the ornamental kind, and in the vicinity of gentlemen's seats and villas, it is so disposed as to produce the most favourable effect." Tiie rocks are of the coal formation, with protrusions of trap, and accumulations of dilu- vium. Coal is very extensively worked. Iron- stone abounds, and was for some time worked on the spot, and afterwards expoited to the Tyne i'or smelting. There are nineteen landowners; and ten of them are resident. The value of assessed pro- perty in 186U was £23,046 19s. lid. Manufactures have been nmch incited by local facilities, and are extensive and various. There are paper-mills at Rothes, Auchmuty, and Balbirnie; a woollen fac- tory at Balbirnie; flax spinning mills at Scythriim, Thornton, Milton of Balgonie, and Haugh; bleach- fields at Rothes, Lochty, Balgonie, and Haugh ; and a distillery at Cameron-Bridge. The weaving^ of linens also is an extensive employment. The parish is traversed by the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway; it contains, at Thornton, \8h miles from Edinburgh, the junctions with that railway of the branches westward to Dunfermline and eastward to Leven; and has also, at 21 miles from Edinburgh, and at 11 from Cupar, a station for Markinch. Population in 1831, 4,967 ; in 1861, 5,375. Houses, 1,095. One of the principal objects of antiquarian inter- est in the parish is Balgonie castle. The buildings are obviously of difi'erent ages ; but the castle w as lately in repair, and fonned one of the residences of the Earl of Leven within the last seventy years. The great tower is the most ancient, and was pro- bably erected about the 14th or loth century. It is situated on the banks of the Leven, about 36 feet above the bed of the stream. It is 80 feet high, with a battlement at the top, and is 45 feet in lenEfth, by 36 in breadth, over the walls. The walls of the two lower stories, which are arched with stone, are 8 feet thick. The remaining build- ings form an extensive quadrangle, enclosing a court; and a portion of them are said to have been erected by the first Earl of Leven. — The house of Balfour is remarkable, as containing an original portrait of the well-known Cardinal Bethune, and another of Mary Bethune, one of the Queen's four Marys. At Brunton an ancient tower at one time existed, said to have been the remains of a residence of the Earls of Fift; and from it, it is alleged, in popular tradition, there was a subterraneous passage to the Maiden-castle in the neighbouring parish of Kennoway. — At Bandon there are also tiie MARKING H. 593 MARNOCH. ruins of an ancient tower, and at KirkCorthar tiic remains of a chapel which once existed here, but was suppressed previous to tlie lieformation.- — Of anti- quities of a more ancient date, in all probiibilitv, than any of these, may be mentioned an ancient cross, which stands on a rising ground to the north of the village of Markinch, and near the garden entrance to Balbirnie. It is a broad slab about 7 feet high, but without any carving, so far as can now be dis- covere 1. Immediately east of this cross, and on tiie opposite side of tiie public highway, is a small hill of an oblong shape, about 200 yards in length, called Markinch-hill. It is remarkable from the circum- stance of its northern declivity presenting six regular terraces at different heights, about 20 feet broad, and extending the whole lengtli of the hill. For- merly these terraces were to be seen on entering Markinch from the north; but the hill was planted by the late General Balfour, and the terraces, con- sequently, in a great measure, concealed. They are obviously artificial ; but the purpose for wliicli they were intended is not so plain. Colonel Miller thinks chis hill was a Roman station, and that by the Ro- mans the terraces Avere constructed ; others think that games were anciently held in the low ground to the north, and that the terraces were made for the convenience of the spectators. The fact of the low ground, and also of that which surrounds the hill on which the church of Markinch stands, hav- ing been anciently a marsh, would seein to be in- consistent with this idea. Stone-coffins, or cistvaens, containing calcined bones, have been found in the parish. This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £284 7s.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated teinds, £719 os. lid. Sclioolmnster's salary now is £35. with £70 fees, and £17 10s. otiier emoluments. The parish ciiurch was enlarged and partly rebuilt in 1S06, and contains 1,0.50 sittings. There are two chapels of ease, respectively at Tliornton and at Milton of Bal- gonie, both built at the church extension epoch, and both under the patronage of the male conmuinicants. The one at Thornton contains upwaids of 400 sit- tings; and the one at Milton contains 650. There is a Free church at Markinch, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £340 lis. 4d. Tiiere are two United Presbyterian churches, respectively at Mark- inch and at Inverleven, the f(jrmer with an attend- ance of 300, tlie latter wiih 175. There are nine non-parochial schools ; and two of them receive ex- traneous aid. Tiie original church of Markinch was founded by the Culdees; and it afterwards figures in very early records. Hugo, the ancestor of the family" of Wemyss, the second son of GiUimichael, fourth Earl of Fife, conferred the church of Markinch with a toft, and the teinds belonging to the same, upon the canons of St. Andrews, which was con- firmed by his son Hugo, previous to 1171. The tower of "the present cliurch is of great antiquity, though certainly not by any means of that age which has been attributed to it, that of the 9th or 10th century; though we should be inclined to as- sign it to tlie 14th or 15th century. The spire, how- ever, which surmounts it, is of comparatively modern erection. The Village of IVIakkinch stands on the road from Leven to Kinross, and near that from Kirk- caldv to Cupar, about ^ a-mile north of the river Leven, 3 miles east of Leslie, 5 cast by north of Leven, and 7 north of Kirkcaldy. Its site is the summit and slopes of a gentle eminence, which was anciently surrounded by water, and more recently by a deep morass. Tlie eminence appears to have been still an island when the original church was founded upon it ; and, the whole country exterior to the zone of water being then covered with dense forest, the island was an "island of the forest;" and such is tlie meaning of the word Markinch, marh being the Norse word for "forest," andawcA the word for "island." The inorass was long ago drained, and is now in many parts coVered with buildings, but can still be distinctly traced throughout its ori- ginal extent. The southern part of the eminence within it is the site of the cliurch, and has a knolly form; the northern part is Markinch hill, which has been noticed in our aecount of the parish; and the part between these, and connecting them, is a slop- ing ridge along the summit and sides of wiiich tlie primitive habitations were constructed. But since the draining of the morass, the village has extended itself on all sides. The inhabitants sliare largely in the general industry of the parish. The village is lighted with gas, and has a branch office of tlie Commercial bank. Fairs are held on the second Tuesday of February, oij the last Tuesday of March, on the second Tuesday of ^lay, on the sjeond Friday of October, and on the third Tuesday of December. Population in 1861, 1,230. IMAHLEE. See Kixi.ocu. MARLEFIELD. See Eckford. MAKXOCIl, a pirisli, containing the post-office village of Abeichiivier. in the north-east of Banff- shire. It is bounded for about Ij mile on the east by Aberdeenshiie, and on other sides by the parisjies of Inverkeithnie, liothiemay. Grange, Ordiquhill, Boyndie, Binff, Alvali, and Forglcn. Its length south-eastward is about 8 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 5 miles. The river Deveron traces the southern and south-eastern boundary for about 6 miles, measuied in a straight line, but wends so sinuously as to achieve at least twice that distance along its bed; and numerous burns run southward to that stream, along little vales which pleasingly diversify the interior of the parish. The general surface may be reckoned comparatively champagne; but has strathlets and hollows along the course of the streams, and is considerably diversified in the miildle, and on the north-east and west borders, by rising-grounds and hills. The soil varies from a rich loam to clay and moorland. On the banks of the Deveron the land is very fine and generally arable. There are extensive and beautiful plantations; and the district is well-cultivated, even the hilly tracts upon its borders being subject to the plough almost to their summits. Granite is the predominant rock, and is extensively quarried. Limestone also occurs, and was formerly worked. There are eleven principal landowners. The rent of the arable land is generally from 18s. to £1 2s. per r.cre, but falls so low in some places as 12s. a'.id rises so high in others as £3. There is a consideij.ble extent of moss, part of whieh is used for cutting peats. The'valueot assessed property in 1865 was £10,101. The prin- cipal mansions "are Aiichintoul. Netiierdale, Ard- mellie, and Clunv. Tlie principal antiquities are the ancient tower-looking mansion of Kinaidy-castle on the Deveron. behmging to the Karl of Fife, and the old castle of Cromhie on the west side of the parish, belonging to the Karl of Seafi.ld. The parish is iravei-sed by the road from I'.aiiff to Iluiitly, and by that from Portsov to Turriff Population in 1831, 2,426; in 1861. 3.289. Houses. 697 This parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie, and synod of Moray. Patron, tiie Earl of Fife. Stipend, £242 12s. 2d. ; glebe. £15. Unappropriated teinds, £363 4s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary now is P70, with about £35 fees, and £53 other emoluments. The parish church is a plain modern edifice, con- tainlu'^ 9U0 sittings. There is a Free church, a very MARR. 304 MARYBURGH. liaiidsome edifice, built at the cost of upwards of £2,000, and containing about 1,000 sittings; and the amount of its receipts in 18(55 was £3nl 18s. 2d. I'luM-e are also an United Presbyterian clmrcli, a I'aptist chapel, an Episcopalian chapel, and a Konian Catholic chapel. There are nine non-parochial schools, and a large parochial library. Marnoch is I'amous for its connexion with one of the stiffest of the contests under the veto act which led to the formation of the I'ree church. The parish has its name from the same saint as Kilmarnock and Kil- maronock. MARU, or Mar, an ancient district of Aberdeen- shire. It lies in the south-western quarter of the county, principally between the Dee and the Don. It comprises the subdivisions of Braemar, or the mountainous district, Midmar, or the district imme- diately east of Braemar, and Cromar, or the lowland and well-cultivated district. It is not now one of the recognised political divisions of the county. But it still gives the title of Earl to the ancient family of Erskine. The origin of this earldom is lost in antiquity. In 1065, Martacus, Earl of Marr, was witness to a charter of Malcolm Canmore in favour of the Culdees of Loch-Leven. The first historical notice of the Erskines is one of the 13th century, when the heads of the family were only Lords Erskine. In 1436, James II. created or confirmed Thomas, the ninth Lord, Earl of Marr; but the earl- dom was forfeited by John, the eleventh Earl, who took part as leader in the insurrection of 1715; after which it remained in abeyance till 1824, wlien it was restored by act of parliament in the person of John Francis Erskine, a lineal descendant of the family. No part of this district belongs to the Earls of Marr. Marr lodge, on the Uee,about2milesbelow thelinn of Dee, is a couimodious hunting-seat of the Earl of Fife. MARSCO, one of the CuchuUin mountains in the parish of Strath, in the island of Skj'C. MARTIN, a small inhabited island in the parish of Lochbroom, and county of Cromarty. It lies in the frith or elongated bay of Lochbroonr, 4 miles north-north-west of the village of Ullapool, and is separated from the coast of the district of Coigach byachannel of little more than half-a-mile in breadth. The island measures about 5 miles in circumference. MARTINIIAM (Locii), a lake in the parishes of Coylston and Dalrymple, chiefly in the former, in the district of Kyle, Ayrshire. It stretches from north-east to south-west, in a stripe 1^ mile in length, and 1 furlong in mean breadth. From Loch- Fergus, a smaller lake lying half-a-mile to the north-west, it receives one stream, and at its own north-eastern extremity it receives another; and it sends off its su- perfluence at its other end, in a stream 2i miles long, to the Doon, near Dalrymple church. Its waters abound in pike, perch, and eel, and are frequented by wild geese, wild duck, the teal, and the widgeon. On the bosom of the lake is a completely wooded islet; amidst its woods are the ruins of an ancient manor- house, 100 feet long, and 30 wide; and both the ruined walls and the trees which suri-ound them are thickly overrun with ivy. On a graceful low pro- montory on the north-west side of the lake, stands Martinham-lodge; and here and elsewhere the banks are beautifully sylvan. MARTINS (St.). See Logiepert. MARTINS (St.), Haddingtpnshire. See IIao- DINOTON. MARTINS (St.), Ross-shire. See Kiekmiciiael. MARTINS (St.), a parish in the Strathmore district of Perthshire. It contains the post-office village of Guildtown and the village of Caroline-place; and also adjoins the post-town of Balbeggie. It is bounded by Cargill, CoUace. a detached section of Forfarshire, Kilspindie, Kinnoul, Scone. Redgorton. and Auchtergaven. Its length eastward is 5f miles; and its breadth varies from 1| mile to 4^^ miles. The river Tay traces its boundary for 2J miles on the west. The surface of the parish, though neither hilly nor the reverse, rises consideiably above the level of the Tay, and is much diversified by troughs, rising grounds, and undulations. Plantations are extensive enough to give a warm appearance to the interior; copse-woods fringe and feather the edge of the Tav; and enclosures and culture spread neatness over the whoh; area. 'J'he soil in general is a black mould on till, but very much improved; and toward the river it is naturally good and fertile. F'reestone everywhere abounds, and is extensively quarried. The other chief minerals are limestone and rock- marl. Vestiges are still distinct of a Roman road leading from the ancient Bertha eastward, past Berry hills, Ditchmuir, and Byres toward the parish of Car- gill. Several Druidical temples are observable. But the most interesting antiquity is a circular elevated spot, with ancient remains, known among the people of the suirounding countiy as Macbeth's castle, and noticed in our article on Cairn beddie. There are seven landowners, and the most extensive of them is Macdonald of St. Martins. The house of St. Martins is a fine modern mansion. The real rental in 1856 was £7,076 15s. 3d. Assessed property in 1860, £7,296 5s. 3d. A considerable number of the parishioners are employed in the coarse linen manufacture. The parish is traversed by the roads from Perth to Bl.-iirgowrie and Cupar- Angus; and it has near access, across the Tay, to the Lun- carty and Stanley stations of the Scottish Midland railway. Population in 1831, 1,135; in 1861, 904. Houses, 177. This parish is in the presbytery of ]*erth, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £248 17s. 8d.; glebe, £22. Unappropriated teinds, £8 5s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with about £15 fees, and £16 other emoluments. The parish church is a handsome edifice, built in 1842, and containing very ample accommodation. There is a subscription school. A branch savings' bank was established, but has become extinct. The present parish of St. Martins comprehends the ancient parishes of St. Martins and Cambusmichael, united upwards of 160 years ago. The church of St. Martins became that of the united parish, and anciently lay within the diocese of Dnnkeld, and was a mensal church of the abbey of Holyrood. The church of Cambusmichael— still indicated by its ruins beside the Tay, on a low plain of the class which the Gaelic language calls 'Cambus' — anciently was included in the diocese of St. Andrews, and be- longed to the abbacy of Seone. A small chapel stood beside it within" the limits of the cemetery. MARTIN'S STONE. See Mains and Stkath- MARTINE. MARTLE, or, according to local pronunciation, Markle, a hamlet in the parish of Athelstaneford, Haddingtonshire. It is 4^ miles north-east of Had- dington. According to Buchanan it was anciently called ]\Iiracle, from a miraculous incident which he relates concerning a battle fought here: see Athel- staneford. MARTYR'S. See Glasgow. MARTYR'S BAY. See Iona. MARYBURGH, a small village in the parish of Cleish, Kinross-shire. It stands on the road between Perth and North Queensferry, 4 miles south of Kin- ross, and 7^ north-east of Dunfermline. Population, 39. Houses, 9. MARYBURGH, a village in the parish of Fod- derty, Ross-shire. It stands on the west road from MARYBrRGH. 395 AIARYKIRK Inverness to Tain, If mile south of Dingwall. It is of comparatively recent formation, and partakes the character of a new village, inhabited by crofters and mechanics. Here are a chapel of ease, a Free church, and two public school.-s. Population in 18G1, 503. MARYBURGII, a town in the parish of Kilmalie, Inverness-shire It stands at the mouth of the rivers Lochy and Nevis, on the east side of the angle of Locheil, adjacent to the base of Ben-Nevis, and in the immediate vicinity of Fort-William ; and, being intimately associated 'with Fort-AVilliam, both his^ torically and as a seat of population, it has practi- cally ceased to be known by its own name, and is now known in distant parts of the kingdom, and even, in a degree, in its own neighbourhood, by the name of Fort-William. The village and the foit originally bore the names respectively of Gordons- burgh and Inverlochy, — the former from being built on the property of the noble family of Gordon, and the latter from being situated at the embouchure of the Lochy; but, after the accession of the Orange family to the British thi'one. they assumed the names of Maryburgh and Fort-William, in honour of the consort-sovereians. See Fort-William. M ARYCU I.TER, a parish, containing a post-office station of its own name, on the north border of Kin- cardineshire. It is bounded by Aberdeenshire, and i)y Banchory-Davenick, Fetteresso, and Durris. Its length, east-north-eastward, is 6 miles; and its great- est breadth is 2J miles. The liver Dee traces the whole of its northern boundary; and a considerable burn, coming in irom Fetteresso, runs northward through its centre to the Dee. Some small liaughs and dales lie along the banks of the river; but the rest of the surf ice is uneven and rocky, and rises toward the boundaries into the skirting hills of the Grampians, some of which are moorish, heathy, and rocky, while others have a clothing of verdure inter- spersed with large stones. The soil on the side of tlie river is naturally thin and sandy ; that of the rising midland becomes deeper and blacker, with occasionally a bottom of clay; and that toward tiie southern border is predominantly swampy, turt'y, and mossy. Vast 'improvements, however, have been effected, en ground which "thoroughly to im- prove, enclose, and render tolerably fertile," says the author of the Old Statistical Account, " may be almost termed a new creation." About 3,300 im- perial acres are in tilhrge ; about 4,200 are pastoral or waste ; and about 850 are under ])lantation. The predominant rocks nre granite and gneiss. What is termed "iron-slag" is also found. Upwards of one- half of the parish belongs to j\Ir. Gordon of Fy vie ; and the rest is distributed into six properties. The mansions are Maryculter, Kingcaussie, Heathcote, and Auchlunies. Part of the parish appears to have been a favourite haunt of the Knights-Templars. The only antiquities are some small cairns. The parish is traversed by the south road of Deeside, and iias ready access across the Dee to the Gnltcr station of the Deeside railwav. Population iri 1831, 960; in 1861, 1,05.'). Houses, 202. Assessed pro- perty in 1860, £5,410 19.S. This parisli is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Duff of Fetteresso. Stipend, £171 12s. 2d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with £10 fees. The parish church was built in 1787, and contains 4i)0 sittings. There is a Free church; and the amount of its receipts in 1805 was £87 8s. 3d. There are a Roman Catholic college and a Roman Catholic chapel at Blaius: which see. There are two non-parocliial schools and a parochial library. The original form of the word Maryculter was Mariae Cultura. MARYIIII.L, a quoad sacra parish and a post- office village, in the quoad civilia Barony parish o( Glasgow, Lanarkshire. The parish was constituted by the Court of Teinds on the 10th of Julv, 1850; and it contained in 1851 a population of 6,700, with 560 houses. The Crown is p itron. The village of Maryhill is situated on tlie road from Glasgow to Diymen, on the hd't bnnk of tlie Kelvin, at the point where that stream is crossed by the Forth and Clyde canal, and on the very wc-tern" verge of Lanarkshire, 3^ miles north-west "of Glasgow. The dell of the Kelvin here is exceedingly romantic; the aqueduct of the canal across the dell is lofty and picturesque; the locks of the canal, in a rapid descent to it on the Maryhill side, are very curious; the village itself has a clean, pleasing, and showy appearance; and the whole place, viewed in connexion with its environs is much admired. The village was re- cently created a burgh, with magistrateii and police commissioners. There are in it the quoad sacra parish church, a Free church, an United Presby- terian church, a Roman Catholic chapel, several schools, and a puldic library. There are likewise in it two print-works, bleachfields, a spinning-mill, a gas-work, an iron-foundry, and a ship-building yard. Public coaches run to Glasgow, and in tran- sit to Milngavie, several times a-day. Population of the village in 1841, 2,552; in 1861, 3,717. MARYKIRK, a parish, containing the post-ofTice villages of Marykirk and Lutherniuir, on the south border of Kincarilineshire. It is bounded by For- farshire, and by the paiishes of Fettercairn, For- doun, Laurencekirk, Garvock, and St. Cyrus. Its length enstward is about 7 nnles ; and its greatest breadth is about 6 miles. Tiie North Esk runs for 5 miles along the southern boundary; the Luther runs south-westward through the middle of the in- terior, to the North I'.sk; and the Black burn, the Dowrie burn, and the burns of ]5alniakelly and 15almaleedie drain the side districts into the larger streams. The surface of the parisli comprises large part of the south-western extremity of the Howe of Mearns, and has a predominantly champaign char- acter, sloping gently from the north and the east to the North Esk ; but rising grounds, called the hills of Kirkton and Balmaleedie, extend in two parallel ridges along the south-east border, from the vici- nity of the hill of Garvock to the vicinity of Mary- kirk village, their upper end being separated froui the hill of Garvock only by a defile or large gap called the Wide-open. The soil is very various, but in general is fertile and well-cullivated. Ju some parts along the North Esk and the Luther, it is loamy alluvium ; in some other parts, it is sandy or gravellv; in many jilaces, it coii'..ins 1 ouliiers; in some parts, it is a wet and rather poor clay ; and in the north and north-east, it was formerly moor- ish, but has been much ameliorated by cultiva- tion. Sandstone, belonging to the old red forma- tion, abounds and is quarried; and various kinds of trap occur in the rising grounds. About 6,955 imperial acres are in tillage ; about 573 are in pas- ture ; and abcmt 1,532 are underwood. There are seven landowners. The real rental in 1842 was £7,245; the value of asses.sed property in 1860, £10,873; the estimated value of raw produce in 18-12, £24,231. The mansions .ire Kirktonhill, Bal- makewan, Inglismaldie, Thornton-castle, and Hat- ton. There are in the parish a spinning-mill, a fiax-mill, six corn -mills, and five saw -mills. A very considerable employment also is handloom linen weaving. The parish is traversed by the north road from Dundee to Aberdeen, by the road from Fettercairn to IMontrose, and by the Aberdeen railway; and it has a station on the railway, 4 miles MARYPARK. 396 MARY'S LOCH (St.). from LaurencL'kirk and 34 from Aberdeen. The j village of Marvkirk stands in tlie south-east corner of tlie parish, liear the North Esk, on the road from Montrose to Fettercairn, G miles north-west of Montrose. It had an ancient cross, part of -which is still standing. It anciently bore the name of Aberluthnet, inalliision to the debouch of a small rivulet in its vicinity ; and it gave that name also to the parish, — a name which continued to be used so late as the beginning of last century. A bridge of four arches over the North Esk, situated a little below the village, and built in 1813, proved of very Jiigli utility to the surrounding country. Popula- tion of the" village, about 300. Population of the parish in 1831, 2.032; in 1861, 2,068. Houses, 410. Tills parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun. and synod of Angus and ilearns. Patron, Crombie of Thornton. Stipend, £246 6s. Id.; glebe, £S. Un- appropriated teinds, £121 4s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary, £56, with £20 fees. The parish church was builtin 1806. and contains 638 sittings. There is a Free church in Marykirk, with an attendance of 200; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £73 14s. Id. There is an United Presbyterian church at jMuirton. built in 1824, and containing 430 sittings. There are a Congregational chapel at Sauchieburn, and a Baptist one at Luthennuir. There are five non-parochial schools and a public library. MAKYPAIvK, a post -office station subordinate to Cragellachie, on the east side of Moravshire. ]\IARYPORT, a creek 2^ miles north of the :Mu11 of Galloway, on the east coast of tlie parish of Kirk- maiden, "VVigtonshire, one of about sixteen tiny bays which indent the outline of that peninsular parish. Though this creek is currently called a port, the only real harbours in the pari.*h are Drummore, If mile to the north, and Portnessock on the west coast. MAPtY'S BOWER. See Habbie's Howe. MARY'S (St.). See Edixburgu, Glasgow, Kelso, and Ronaldshay (South). MARY'S ISLE (St.), a peninsula, 1^ mile in length, and 3 furlongs in mean breadth, in the pa- rish of Kirkcudbright, Kirkcudbrightshire, formed by the main channel of the estuary of the Dee on the west, and a bay advancing inland from the broader pait of that estuary on tlse east. The re- treat of the sea, so noticeable along the whole coast of Kirkcudbrightshire, is peculiarly observable in this peninsula. The sea, in former times, made the place literally an isle, and covered at every tide at least one-half of its present cultivated surface. Tlie west side is high ground, defended by a border of rocks ; but the east side visibly discloses from end to end, in laree shell -banks, the former line of high water. The Avhole peninsula is ornately occu- pied with the wooded and very beautiful pleasure- grounds of the Earl of Selkirk, and presided over by his lordship's principal residence in their centre. The grounds are elegantly laid out in winding walks, and gardens and lawns of uncommon ele- gance; and torm a gorgeous environ, at only J of a mile distance, of the burgh of Kirkcudbright. The family of Selkirk are among the most aristocrati- callv descended in the south of Scotland, and are nearly allied to the chief houses both of Hamilton and of Douglas. A prioiT', founded in the reign of David T. by Fergus, Ix)rd of Galloway, occupied the isle till the Reformation ; and having bien dedicated to the Virgin Mary, occasioned its ancient name — which was the Isle of Trahil or Trayl — to be superseded by that of St. Mary's Isle. The priory was called ' Prioratus Sanctae Marite de Trayl.' It was the seat of canons-regular of the order of St. Augustine; and being given by its founder to the abbey of Holyrood, became a dependent cell of that establisli- meiit. The prior was a lord of parliament. The priorv was surrounded with high walls, which en- closed an extensive area. The outer gate was dis- tant at least half-a-inile from the priory, and stood at a place about the same distance from the town, and still called the Great Cross. The inner gate led immediately to a group of cells, the habitations of the monks, and was called the Little Cn>6S. All the buildings were swept away about 165 years ago. to give full scope for beautil'ying the ground as a noble demesne. ■While the Earl of Selkirk was extending his gar- den toward the close of last century, 14 human skeletons were discovered by the workmen, placed regularly alongside of one another with their ieet to the east, occupying a spot quite difierent from the burying-ground of the monks, one of them distin- guished by some monumental honours from the rest, and all the remains possibly of persons in- terred previous to the existence of the priory. David Panther, or Panitor. was prior of St. Mary's Isle toward the middle of the 16th century. See article Cambuskexseth. He was one of the most eminent literary men of his day, and wrote let- ters, published by Ruddimnn in 1772, which afford a model of classical latinity; but, according to Buchanan, he was a profane man, and instigated persons at court to all manner of impurities; and according to John Knox, '• eating and drinking was the pastvme of his lyif." He died at Stirling on the 1st of October, 1558. Robert Richardson, de- scended from a line of respectable citizens of Edin- burgh, and previously promoted to the offices of lord-treasurer and general of the mint, was made commander of St. Mary's Isle about the year 1560; and he used such adroiterv as to hold all his lucra- tive situations under both Mary and her son. Large estates were purchased by him; and at his deatli, in 1571, were left to his two sons, Sir James Rich- arcJson of Smeaton, and Sir Robert Richardson of Pencaitland. The noted Paul Jones, when infest- ing the coast with his fleet in 1778, made a descent on St. Mary's Isle, with the view of seizing tlie Earl of Selkirk as a hostage during the war with America. His lordship being from home, all the silver-plate in his mansion was seized and cariii d away; but it was returned uninjured and without cost, seven years after the depredation. MARY'S LAKE (St.), a beautiful small lake lying between two precipitous hills, very richly wooded, in the immediate vicinity of the town of Tobermory, in the island of ilull. The elegant modern mansion of Drumfin stands on its banks. MARY'S LOCH (St.), a beautiful sheet of water, formed by e-\p:insion of the river Yarrow, on the west border of Selkirkshire. It is about 4 miles in length ; and, with the lesser lake of the Lowes, lies imbedded amid hills in a beautiful pastoral country. " There are few spots," says an anonymous writer, "where there is so little that is repulsive to man, and yet so few traces of his presence. You may scan the abrupt green hills on either side, from the water's edge to their summits, without seeing any work of human art, save scattered here and there on the declivities those mysterious-looking circular sheep-pens, which look like so many gigantic dogs' collars dropped from the clouds, and remaining where they fell. The banks sink abruptly down into the lake, the waters of which are exquisitely transparent. Wordsworth says— 'Tliroiijrli her depllis St M.iry's l;ike Is visibly doligliteil. For not a feature of those liills l£ ill the mirror sliglited.' MARY'S LOCH CSr.j 397 IMARYTON. ft is, in fact, a most minute and faithful looking- plass to all the hills ; and they look as clean and s:nooth as if they had shaved themselves by it. The whole scene must have indeed been very dif- ferent from its present aspect, wiien these abrupt hills were covered with dusky pines. ' They saw the derke forest them before, They thought it awsoine for to see,' says the ballad of the outlaw Murray, describins: the advance of the Kind's 'full 5,000 men,' in one of the expeditions of the Jameses to make war on the rievers." Sir Walter Scott, in his Introduction to the second canto of ' Marmion,' has given a most graphic description of tiiis loch : — " Oft in my mind such thong-hts .iwake By lone St. Mary's silent ]ake. Tiiiiii know'st it well. — nor fen. nor scrijjo, Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge; Al)rupt and sheer, the mountains sink At once upon the level brink; And just a trace of silver sand Marks where the water meets the lamL Far in the mirror, bri^'ht and blue. Each hill's huge outline you may view; Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare. Nor tree, nor hush, nor brake is there, Sas'c where, of land, you slender hue Bears thwart the lake the scattered pine. Nor tliicket, dell, nor copse you spy Where living thing concealed might lie; Nor point, retiring, hides a dell. Where swain, or woodman lone, might dwell ; There's nothing left to Fancy's guess, — You see that all is loneliness; And silence aids. — though the steep hills Send to the Lake a thousand rills. In summer-tide so soft they weep, Tlic sound but lulls the ear asleep: Your horse's hoof-tread sounds too rude — So stilly is the solitude ! " The road from Peebles and Innerleithen to St. Marv's loch passes throusjli a wild mountain defile, wiiich opens on the vale of the Yarrow about 3 miles from the lake. On emerging from this, the lonely YaiTow all at once bursts on the traveller's view; and here for a time nothing is seen but mountains covered with sheep, and the cottage, long associated with the name and writings of tlie Ettrick Shepherd, wliich .'itauds at a short distance east of the lake, and which, more tlian any other feature in the land- scape, makes St. Mary's loch an object of interest to all lovers of poetry. Almost every mouritain and stream in 'the Forest' have been hallowed by the genius of the bard, who " Fonnd in youth a Iiarp among the hills. Dropt by the ElBn-people; and whilst the moon Entranced hung o'er still St. Mary's loch. Harped by that charmed water, so that the swan Came flo;iting onwards through the wafer-blue, — A dreamlike creature listening to a dream ; And the Queen of the Fairies rising silently Through the pure mist, stooil at the shepherd's feet, And half-forgot her own green paradise, Far in the bosom of the bill. — so wildl So sweet! so sad! flowed forth that shepherd's l;iv." At the foot of the loch stands the ruined tower of J")i;t-hope: which see. Opposite the farm of Dry- hope, on the other side of the lake, is the farmstead- ins: of Bowerhope; and, behind it, the lofty and pre- cipitate Bowerhope-law, of which the bard of Ettrick, contemplating its mass in winter, has sung, — "Bnt winter's deadly hncs shall fade On moorland baiil and moinuain shaw, And soon the rainbow's lovely shade Sleep on the breast of Bowerhope- law." At the head of the lake, and directly over the old tower, are the braes or four hills of Chapelhope, tho rugged and broken outskirts of which are cele- brated as the last retreat of the persecuted Cove- nanters. More distant, and peeping over these, is the top of Carrifrangans, a dreadful precipice in Moffatdale. Towering above Carrifrancrans, though not so distant, is the panted smnmit of the White Coomb, one of the highest mountains in the south of Scotland. On the same s'ul'. is a hill called the Braken-law. Here the river Meggat joins the lake after flowing through Meggatdale, a wild district, the principal hunting-scene of the roval Stuarts in this part of the kingdom. At the foot of the Braken- law is seen, thoufrh indistinctlv, the rin'ned chapel and burial-place of St, Marv's,"frorn which the lake derives its name. This, also, the poet's pen has rendered a classic spot. In this lonelv place the bones of many an outlaw mingle with the dust; and here the shepherd of the present day still findsj his last resting-place. "For though in feudal strife a foe Hath I.iid our Lady's chapel low. Yet still beneath tiie hallowed soil. The peasant rests him from his toil: And, dying, bids his hones be laid Where erst his simple fathers prayed.'' This ancient chapel is the subject of manv tradi- tions, and of a variety of ballads and poetry of an- cient and modern date. "St. Mary's loch lies shimmering .still. r.ut St .Mary's kirk-hell's lang dune ringing! There's naelhing ?iow but the grave-staiie hill To tell o' a" their loud psalm-singing! " Among the ballads, that of ' the Douglas trag'^dv ' has been rendered familiar to the reading world hv Sir Walter Scott in the ' Border Minstrelsy.' The Lord William and Lady Margaret of that ancient ditty, were buried in the chapel. "Lord AVilliam was buried in St. Mary's kirk, Lady Margaret iu Mary's quire; Out o' the lady's grave grew a bonny red rose. And out o' the knight's a brier. " .A.nd they twa met. and they twa plat. And fain they wad be near: Ami a' the world mi^rht ken right weel, Tht-y were twa lovers dear. '• But by and rade the Black Douglas, .And wow but he w.is rough! For he pulled up the bonny brier And flang'd in St. Mary's loch." An ancient and very popular tradition has also given the ground-work of Mr. Hogg's ballad of ' Mess John ;' and the chapel is the scene of the principal incident in his ballad of ' Mary Scott.' Here the daughter of stern Tushilaw is supposed, by the poet, to have been brought for interment ; here she awaked from that sleep which appeared to ,11 the sleep ot death ; and hero was mariied to her lover, Pringle, Lord of Torwoodlee. M.\R Y'S LOCH (St.). or Loch Mom. a mountain lake, about ^ miles long, with an average breadth of 1 mile, in the northern part of the parish of Alness, in Ross-shire. Its sides are flanked by alpine, rocky, precipitous heights, which give its scenery a sublime character. The lake is very deep, and has never been known to freeze further than a few yards from the side. Its name is derived from an ancient Konian Catholic place of worship, situated in a romantic glen at one of its extremities, and the ruins of which still exist. M.\RY'S WELL. See T.vrbat and Kirkhoi.m. MARY TON, a parish, consisting of two detached estates, in the maritime district of Forfarshire. Its post-town is Montrose, 3 miles to the north-east anel6ngs to a peninsula 5 furiongs long and between from 2 to 3 broad, formed by a redupli MELROSE. 411 MELROSE. cation of the Tweed. The hanks, all round, are lofty and wooded, varied with perpendicular rocks, jutting like buttresses from top to bottom ; and the surface rises from them on all sides in a regular, smooth, grassy ascent, till it terminates in a small table-ground, crowned with the modern mansion, and both constituting and commanding a mostbeau- ful scene. This piomontory took the name of Mel- rose, afterwards transferred to the new town and to the whole parish, either from the Irish, 3Inol- Hoss, signifying 'the bald projection,' or from the British, Mell-Bhos, signifying ' the projection of the meadow.' Old Melrose was the site of a Culdee establishment, one of the earliest on tlie continent of Scotland. Eata, one of the twelve disciples who accompanied Aidan, the founder of the bishopric of Lindisfarn. from lona to Northumbria, seems not to have followed his master in accommodating himself to incipient prelacy, and, at all events, turned early aside from immediate co-operation with him to become the apostle of the upper vale of the Tweed. Eata appears on record, in the year 664, as the abbot or head of the Melrose establishment. His successor was Basil, a person whom Bede describes as " distinguished for his virtues and of a prophetic spirit." Cuthbert, one of the most famous saints of Scotland, probably one of the most zealous and en- lightened of her early missionaries, and afterwards the nominal bishop of Lindisfarn, and the real la- borious itinerating preacher of Northumbria, en- tered the establishment under Basil, and succeeded him in its presidency. Basil's fidelity and success are attested in his having given name to the neigh- bouring parish of St. Boswell's ; and those of Cuth- bert, mingled with some leaning toward the begun developments of prelacy, lie broadly stamped on the early ecclesiastical histoiy and reminiscences of the south-east of Scotland and the north-east of England, — the whole of the ancient Northumbria. The Culdee establishment of Melrose, says Milne, " was a famous nursery for learning and religious men, who were filled with zeal for propagating the Christian religion, particularly among their neigh- bours the pagan Sixons." Nor does it seem to have been less illustrious for resisting the innova- tions of Romanism ; for John of Melrose was one of several Caldees who boldly accused Boniface, a spe- cial emissary of the Pope to Scotland, as " the fabri- cator of falsehoods, the troubler of peace, and of the Christian religion, and the corrupter of it both by word and by writing;" and he is particularly recorded to have made himself obnoxious to the Romanists by impugning the Papal dogmas. But however simple, • evangelical, and anti-Romish the establishment may have been, it suffered, in com- mon witli the parent-college of lona, the foul fate of aftei-wards being treated by the Roman Catholic monks as if it had been an early offshoot of their own church. The establishment flourished and enjoyed peace during two centuries ; but before or about the mid- dle of the 9th century, when the Saxon power was broken by the ascendency of the Scots, and incur- sions were made from the north to the upper and lower Tweed, it was overthrown either by Ken- neth II. or by Kenneth III. At a future period, after it had remained for a season in utter desola- tion, Aldwin, Turgot, and some other Culdees, came from " Girwy to what was formerly the monastery of Mailros, but then a solitude; and being de- lighted with the retirement of that place, began to serve Christ there." But they were subjected to great injuries and persecutions on account of their peculiar doctrines, by King Malcolm ; and menaced by him with death," and by the superior of Girwy with excommunication if they remained, they speed ily withdrew from it the fading glories of Culdeeism. The place was never again the site of a college j but became a mere chaplainry, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and endowed with "tlie privileges of a sanctuary. The foundations of a stone wall were not long ago traceable, which defended the estab- lishment on the accessible side, and stretched from bank to bank of the Tweed across a narrow part of the isthmus. At the entrance, about the middle of the wall, stood a honse. built probably for the por- ters, and still giving the name Red-liouse to its site. The place where the chapel stood continues to be called the Chapel-knowe ; and adjacent places on the Tweed yet bear the names of Monk-ford, and Haly-wheel, — the holy whirlpool or eddy. The original buildings, like those of lona, were" such as cottld not have left any traces. Bede. ."^peaking generally of the ecclesiastical erections of the earlv Culdees, says they were all of oak, and thatched with reeds. The remarkable causeway called the Gerthgate, leads off from C)ld Melrose, past the site of the Culdee chapel of Colmslee, to Soutra-hill. See Fala. Another 'abbey,' of which no records exist, but which seems to have been intermediate between the establishments of Old and New Mel- rose, stood in the vicinity of Newstead. Tlie Town of Meleosk is delightfully situated at the north base of the Eildon hills, on the road from Edinburgh to Jedburgh, contiguous to the iMelrose station of the Edinhtirgh and Hawick railway, 3 furlongs south of the Tweed. 4 miles east-south- east of Galashiels, 7 north-en st by north of Selkirk, 1 1 north-west of Jedburgh, and 35 by road, but 37^ by railway, south-east by south of iEdinWrgh. It has partly the character of an antique dingy place, with narrow thoroughfares and ancient houses, and partly the appearance of a modern, spruce, aspiring seat of population, with elegant and airy ediiices; and in both respects it looks in good keeping with its situation, harmonizing partly with the grand antiquities adjacent to it, and partly with the magnificent landscape around it. It has recently, on the whole, undergone much improvement, incon- sequence of many wealthy strangers being attracted to it for occasional or permanent residence. The body of it consists of three lines of houses, arranged along the sides of a triangular open area. A modern and pleasant little street leads out at the west corner toward Galashiels; and narrow, brief thoroughfares lead off at the other corners toward Gattonside and Jedburgh. Some of the houses display on their lintels, amid the general plainness of their walls, sculptured stones traced with the I. H. S. and other popish devices, affording obvious indication that, at the time when these houses were erected, building materials were abstracted, largely and remorselessly, from the pile of the adjacent abbey. In the centre of the open triangular town area stands the cross, a stiuctnre bearing marks of great antiquity. _ It is about 20 feet high, and has on its apex a carving of an unicorn sustaining the arms of Scotland. A literal cross anciently surmounted the strncture, ar.d. ac- cording to the usage of popish times and things, received homage from pilgrims preliminary to their entering the precincts of the monastic pile; but this was destroyed in 1604. About a rood of land, called the Corse-rig, in a field near the town. is held by the proprietor on the condition of his keep- ing the Cross in repair. Another cross anciently stood at a place, half-a-mile westward on the road to Dernock. still called the High Cross. The jail, a plain, small, modern structure, occupies the site of a curious ancient one. On a stone still preserved of the old jail, the arms of Melrose are sculptured IMELKOSE. 412 MELROSE. —a 'mell,' or mallet, and a 'rose,' — a punning "jieroglyphic version of the town's nnme. The parish church is a modern, plain, but neat and pleasing edifice, sunuounted by a spire, and situated on a rising gmund, called the Weir bill, a few perches west of the town. The Free church has a well-proportioned spire, and figures beautifully in the landscape. The railway station also is a good modern feature, very spacious and handsome. A suspension bridge for foot passengers takes across a communication from the town directly to Gatton- side ; but the bridge of the Edinburgh and Jed- burgh highway and the viaduct of the railway are higher up the river. Melrose was long famed for the manufacture of a fabric called Melrose land-linen, commissions for which were received from London and foreign coun- tries. So early as 1668, the weavers were incor- porated under a seal-of-cause from John, Earl of Haddington, the superior of the burgh ; and for a considerable period preceding 1766, the quantity of linen stamped averaged annually between 33,000 and 34,000 yards, valued at upwards of £2,500. But toward the end of last century, the manufacture I'apidly declined ; and, long ago, it utterly and hope- lessly disappeared. Cotton-weaving, subordiuately to Glasgow, was introduced as a succedaneum, and had a short period of success ; but it, too, became extinct. A bleachfield for linen also was tried, and failed. Even the woollen trade, so singularly pros- perous in several neighbouring towns, was tried here without success. An ancient fair held in spring, called Kier or Scarce Thursday fair, was long a famous carnival season, but afterwards be- came an occasion of business, and then dwindled to extinction. Business fairs are now held on the first Monday of January, February and March, on the Saturday before the last Tuesday of March, on the first Monday of May and August, on the 12th day of August, or on the Tuesday after that day, on the Saturday after the first Tuesday of October, on the first Monday of November and December, and on the 22d day of November, or on the Tuesday after that day. The fair of the 12th day of August, or of the Tuesday after, is a lamb fair, one of the most extensive in Scotland. There is also held a weekly market for grain; and a project was a-foot in 1862 for the erection of a corn-exchange, at a cost of £2,000. The town has an office of the British Linen Company's Bank, an office of the Eoyal Bank, a savings' bank, eleven insurance agencies, four principal inns, a gas company, a water company, six public or congregational libraries, three bene- fit societies, a total abstinence society, a fi-ee masons' lodge, a faimers' club, a curling club, a cricket club, a vagrant relief society, and some religious institu- tions. Railway trains afford ready communication with all places north and south; and an omnibus runs to Earlston. Melrose was erected into a burgh of bai-ony in 1609, and is nominally under the government of a baron bailie ; but no burgh courts are lield, and there is neither burgh property, re- venue, nor expenditure. Justice of peace courts are held as required; and sherifi:''s small debt courts are held on the first Friday of February, May, August, and November. Population in 1841, 893; in 18G1, 1,14L Tiie grand attraction of Melrose is its superb abbey. This, indeed, from its extent, its symmetry, and its artistic beauty, is one of the grandest objects of antiquarian interest in the kingdom. The pile, as an establishment for Cistertian monks, was founded by David I. in 1136. Its site is a piece of level meadow, immediately north-east of the town, md about i of a mile south of the Tweed. The original edifice is said to have been completed in ten years, but was either wholly or partially de- stroyed by fire in 1322, and must have been greatly inferior in magnificence to its successor. What now remains of the re-edificed structure exhibits a style of architecture ascertained to belong to a later age than that of David, and gives distinct indica- tions of having been in an unfinished state at the Reformation, — appearances of rough temporary clos- ings-up of design, with a view to subsequent re- sumption and completion. While the nucleus of the building was constructed at one effort, under the reign and patronage of Robert Bruce, and perhaps aided by some preserved and renovated portion of the original erection of David I., the entire edifice, in the extension of its parts, and in the profusion of its architectural decorations, seems to have been the progressive work of upwards of two centuries, ex- tending from 1326 till the Reformation. The Cis- tertians were noted for their industrious habits, and their patronage and practice of siich departments of the fine arts as were known in the middle ages ; and, in common with all the monastic tribes, they regarded the embellishing of ecclesiastical edifices up to a degree as high as their resources could pro- duce, as pre-eminently and even meritoriously a work of piety. The vast magnificence of the abbey, with its innumerable architectural adjuncts and sculptured adornings, seems thus to have been the result of a constant, untiring, and ambitious effort of the resident monks, powerful in their skill, their numbers, their leisure, and their enthusiasm, and both instigated and aided by the munificent bene- factions which made continual additions to their originally princely revenues, and testified the ap- plause of a dark but pompous age for the sumptuous- ness of the dress thrown around the fane of religious pageants. The architecture is the richest Gothic, combining the best features of its gracefulness and elaboration, and everywhere showing a delicacy of touch, and a boldness of execution, which evince the perfection of the style. The material, while soft enough to admit great nicety of chiselling, possesses such power of resistance to the weather that even the most minute ornaments retain nearly as much sharpness of edge or integrity of feature as when they were fresh from the chisel. The abbey, though inferior in proportions to many works of its class, and only about half the dimensions of York minster, is the most beautiful of all the ecclesiastical structures which seem ever to have been reared in Scotland ; and has seldom, in aggregate architec- tural excellence, been surpassed, or even equalled, by the edifices of any land. What remains is only the principal part of the church, with some trivial fragments of connexion with the cloister. From observable indications on the north side of the stand- ing ruin, the cloister appears to have been a square 150 feet deep, surrounded with a spacious arcade or piazza, and lined along the east, west, and north walls with the habitations of the monks. Though the abbey was regularly noticed in topo- graphical works, and figured boldly in history, and lifted up its alluringly attractive form before the eye of every traveller along the Tweed, it excited so little attention, previous to the present centuiy, as to be coolly abandoned to the rough dilapidations of persons who estimated its sculptured stones at the vulgar quarry-price of building material. Much care has, in recent times, been used, at the expense of the proprietor, to strengthen its walls, slate the remain- ing part of the roof, and furnish various other means of conservation; and it has its rewaid in a promise that the pile will yet long stand to give practical lessons in majestic architectural beauty. Ihe place I MELROSE. 413 MELROSE. incidentally owes nearly all its modern fame to ' the mighty minstrel,' whose mansion at Abbotsford on the west, and his grave in Dryburgh on the east, compete with it in challenging the notice of the tourist. Sir Walter's adoption of it and the town, as the St. Mary's and the Kennaquahair of his tales of ' The Monastery ' and ' The Abbot,' brought it boldly before the gaze of the myriad admirers of his novels, and his well-known personal enthusiasm in making it a favourite retreat from study, and in passing successive hours in scanning over, for the five hundredth time, its labynnth of graces, drew towards it the wondering e\'e of the imitative crowds who looked to liim as a master of taste. But what first roused attention to it, and kept up the vibration in every subsequent thrill of interest in its attractions, was his masterly description of it in ' The Lay of the Last Minstrel.' Two extracts, though familiar to many a reader, may be accepta- ble as vivid pictures of the most remarkable parts of the pile, and fine specimens of the enchanting power of the painter. The one describes the beau- tifully fretted and sculptured stone-roof of the east end of the chancel : " The darkened roof rose liigh aloof On pillars lofty and light and small ; The keystone that locked each ribbed aisle Was a fleur-de-lys or a quatre-feuille; The corbells were carved grotesque and grim; And the pillars, with cluster'd shafts so trim, With base and with capit.il flourish'd around, Seem'd bundles of lances which garlands had bound." The other passage describes the surpassingly ele- gant eastern window: "The moon, on the east oriel shone, Through slender shafts of shapelj' stone By foliaged tracery combined : Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand 'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand In many a freakish knot had twin'd ; Then framed a spell, when the work was done, And changed the willow-wreaths to stone." As to a prose description, one by Mr. Hutchin- son, copied by Grose, is still perhaps the best that has been written. " Tlie view from the entrance into the churchyard," says he, " is noble. This church is in the form of a cross. The south end of the transept presented itself in front. The arching of the doorway is composed of a semicircle, with various members of the most delicate work falling behind each other, supported on light and well-pro- portioned pilasters ; on each side is a projection of rich tabernacle work. The corners of tliis end of the structures are composed of angular buttresses, terminated by spires of tabernacle work. Tliese buttresses are pierced with niches for statues. The pedestals and canopies are of the lightest Gothic order, and ornamented with garlands of flowers in pierced work; above the south gate are several niches for statues, decreasing in height as the arch rises, in which some mutilated etfigies remain, many in standing positions, others sitting, said to represent the apostles. In the centre are the arms of Scotland, a lion rampant in reverse, with a double treasure; above which is the effigy of John the Baptist, to the waist, suspended on a cloud, casting bis looks upwards, and bearing on liis bosom a fillet, inscribed ' Ecce filius Dei.' This is a very delicate sculpture, and in good preservation. On tlie buttress, east of the door, is the effigy of a monk suspended in like manner, supporting on his ehoulders the pedestal of the niche above; in his hands a fillet is extended, on which is inscribed ' Passus e. q. ipse voluit.' On the western buttress is the like effigy bearing a fillet, inscribed ' Cu. venit Josu. eeq. cessabit umbra.' These two sculptures are of excellent workmanship. To the westward of tliis last effigy is the figuie of a cripple, on tlie sliOLilders of one that is blind, well executed. Above the south door is an elegant window, divided by four principal bars or muUions, terminating in pointed arch ; the tracery light, and collected at the summit into a wheel; the stonework of the whole window yet remaining perfect. This window is 24 feet in height within the arch, and 16 in breadth: the mouldings of the arch contain many members, graced with a filleting of foliage; the outward member runs into a point of pinnacle-work, and encloses a niche highly ornamented, which, it is said, contained the figure of our Lord. Theie are eight niches which sink gradually on the sides of the arch, formerly appropriated to receive the sta- tuesof the apostles. The whole south end rises to a point to form tlie roof, garnished with an upper moulding, which is ornamented with a fillet of ex- cellent rose- work; the centre is terminated bv a square tower. It will suffice to remark in this place, that the pedestals for statues, in general, are composed of five members of cornice, supported by palm boughs, or some other rich-wrought foliage, and terminating at the foot in a point with a triple roll. The caps, or canopies of the niches, are com- posed of delicate tabernacle work, the spires orna- mented with mouldings and a fillet of rose work, and the suspended skirts graced with flowers. The interior of the canopy is of ribbed work, terminating in a suspended knot in the centre. This descrip- tion will do to carry the reader's idea to every par- ticular niche. " At the junction of the south and west members of the cross a hexagon tower lises, terminating in a pinnacle roofed Avith stone, highly ornamented. From hence the aisle is extended, so as to receive three large windows, whose arches are pointed, each divided by three upright bars or muUious, the tracery various and light; some in wheels, and others in the windings of foliage. These windows are separated by buttresses, ornamented with niches. Here are sculptured the arms of several of the ab- bots, and that also of the abbacy, ' a mell and rose.' These buttresses support pinnacles of the finest tabernacle woi'k. From the feet of these last pin- nacles are extended bows or open arches, composed of the quarter division of a circle, abutting to the bottom of another race of buttre.sses, which arise at the side wall of the nave; each of these last but- tresses also supporting an elegant pinnacle of taber- nacle work, are ornamented with niches, in two of which statues remain; one of St. Andrew, the other of the Holy Virgin ; the side-aisles are slated, but the nave is covered with an arche 1 roof of hewn stone. From the west end of the church is conti- nued a row of buildings, containing five windows, divided by the like buttresses, the tracery of two of the windows remaining, the rest open. Each of these windows appertained to a separate chapel, appropriated and dedicated to distinct personages and services; the places of the altars, and tlie fonts, or holy-water basons, still remaining. The east end of the church is composed of the choir, with a small aisle on each side, wiiich appears to have been open to the high altar. This part is lighted by three windows towaids the east, and two side win- dows in the aisle; the centre window is divided by lour upright bars or muUions; the traceries are of various figures, but chiefly crosses, which support a large complicated cross that foi'ms the centre ; the arching is pointed, and part of the tracery here is broken. The side lights are near as high as the centre, but very narrow, divided I)y three upriglit bars or niullions; the mouldings of the window MELROSE. 414 MELIiOyE. arches are small aud delicate, yet ornamented with a fillet of foliage. On each side of the great win- dow are niches for statues; and at the top there appears the effigies of an old man sitting, -with a globe in his left hand, rested on his knee, with a young man on his right: over their heads an open crown is suspended. The buttresses at this end terminate in pinnacles of tabernacle work; the mouldings and sculptures are elegantly wrought. " The north end of the cross aisle of the abbey is not much ornamented without, it having adjoined to the cloister and other buildings. The door which leads to the site of the cloister (the building being demolished) is a semicircular arch of many mem- bers; the fillet of foliage and flowers is of the high- est finishing that can be conceived to he executed in freestone, the same being pierced, the flowers and leaves separated from the stone behind, and suspended in a twisted garland. In the mouldings, pinnacle-work, and foliage of the seats which re- main of the cloister, I am bold to say, there is as great excellence to be found as in any stone-work in Europe, for lightness, ease, and disposition. Na- ture is studied through the whole, and the flowers and plants are represented ns accurately as under the pencil. In this fabric there are the finest les- sons, and the greatest variety of Gothic ornaments, tliat the isliind affords, take all the religious struc- tures together. The west side of the centre tower is yet standing; it appears to have supported a spire; a loss to the dignity and beauty of the present re- mains, to be regretted by every visitant. The bal- cony work is beautiful, being formed of open rose- work. The present height of the tower wall is seventy-five feet. The length of this edifice, from east to west, is 258 feet, the cross aisle 137 feet, and the whole contents of its ichnography 943 feet. We entered at the south door, and no expression can convey an idea of the solemn magnificence which struck the eye. The roof of the north and south ends of the transepts remains, supported by intersecting groins, in various di)'ections, of the lightest order; the joinings ornamented with knots, some sculptured with figures, and others of pierced work in flowers and foliage ; the arching of the in- terstices constructed of thin stones, closely jointed ; over the choir, part of the roof of iike workmanship still remains. The side-aisles are formed by light- clustered pillars, richly capitalled, with garlands of flowers and foliage disposed delicately in the mould- ings ; in some the figures of animals are inter- spersed. The pillars which supported the tower towards the east are gone, so that three sides of it are down, leaving a chasm, through which you look up towai'ds the remaining quarter. The north aisle is lighted by a circular window, representing a crown of thorns, which makes an uncommon ap- pearance. Here are the effigies of Peter and Paul, one on each side of the tower, but of inferior sculp- ture." The nave, at the time of ilr. Hutchinson's visit, was used as the parish church, and was in a main degree blocked up from critical examination. It is now partly cleared of incumbrances and deface- ments, so as to present its architecture distinctly to view, marred only by some remains of the super- posed, clumsy, modern masonry. But Mr. Hutch- inson's account of it, in the state in which he saw it, is curious, hoth for indicating the intrinsic har- mony of this part of tlie edifice with the other parts, and for showing, by a notable instance, how de- based and dark a beautiful bright thing may be made b}' bad taste. " On opening the door," says he, "it is not to be expressed the disagreeable scene which presented itself. This place is filled with stalls; in the disposition of which irregularity alone seems to have been studied. Some are raised oa upricrht beams, as scaff"olds, tier above tier; others supported against the walls and pillars: no two are alike in form, height, or magnitude. The same confusion of little and great, high and low, covers the floor with pews. The lights are so obstructed, that the place is as dark as a vault. The floor is nothing but the damp earth. Nastiness and irregu- larity possess the whole scene. The fine workman- ship of tlie pillars, whose capitals, for flowers and foliage, exceed all the rest of the building; the ribs of the arches, and tiie ornaments of their intersec- tions, are scarce to be seen in the horrid gloom which possesses the place. Here are several tombs of emi- nent personages: on the north wall is inscribed, under a coat of armour, ' Here lies the race of the house of Zair.' Many altars, basons for holy water, aud other remains of separate chapels, appear in the aisles ; among which are those of iSt. Mary and St, Waldave." The Cistertian monks of this abbey were the first of their order who obtained footing in Scotland; and, according to general Cistertian usiige, they dedicated the establishment to their patron-saint, the Virgin Mary. David, tliat " sair saunt for the croon o' Scotland," made them the chief of their class, or the motlier-establishment of the kingdom, and be- stowed on them the church of the parish, extensive lands, and numerous privileges. Their original gift from him consisted of the lands of Melrose, Eildon, and Dernock, the lands and wood of Gattonside, the fishings of the Tweed along the whole extent of these lands, and the rights of pasturage, of pannage, and of cutting wood for fuel and building, in the forests of Selkirk and Traquair, and in that lying between the G/ila and the Leader. Other possessions in the form of lands, churches, and privileges, were afterwards so rapidly heaped on them by David, and by his suc- cessors and subjects, that, against the close of the 13th century, they had vast property and various immunities in the counties of Roxburgh, Berwick, Selkirk, Peebles, Dumfries, Ayr, Haddington, and Edinburgh. In 1192, Hassendean, in its church, tithes, lands, and other emoluments, was given by Jocelin, bishop of Glasgow, to the monks, on condi- tion of their establishing at it a house of hospitality, "ad susceptionem pauperum et peregrinorum ad do- mum de Melros vcnientum ; " and it now became the seat of a cell, where several of their number i-esided, to execute the trust of relieving the poor, and enter- taining the pilgrim. In some year between 1181 and 1185, a bull of Pope Lucius exempted the monks from paying tithes for any of their possessions. The monks were now large proprietors, with numerous tenants; great husbandmen, witii many granges and numerous herds; lordly chuichmen, with un- common privileges, Idgh powers, and extensive in- fluence. But a pertinacious controversy had hmg existed between them and the men of Stow, or the vale of Gala-water — then called Wedale— respect- ing two objects of great importance in that age, — pannage and pasturage, under the several proprie- tors; and, in 1184, a formal settlement of the con- troversy, emphatically known in history as 'the peace of Wedale,' was made by William the Lion, assisted by his bishops and liarons. Yet, during such times, disputes among cattle-drivers and swine-herds could hardly be prevented, and, when adopted hy their superiors, weie sometimes carried up to tumult and homicide. In 1269, John of Edenham, the abbot, and many of his conventual brethren, for the crimes of violating the peace of Wedale, attacking some houses of the bishop of St. Andrews, and slaying one ecclesiastic, and wounding many otfcero, were MELROSE. 415 MELVILLE. sxcommunicated by a provincial council which sat in Perth. As Melrose stood near the hostile border, it was usually involved in the rancorous events of Border feud and international war. In 1285, the Yorkshire barons, who had confederated against King John, swore fealty to Alexander II. in Melrose chapter- house. In 1295, Edward I. granted tlie monks a protection ; and in August of next year, while he rested at Berwick after the general submission of Scotland to his usurping interference, he issued a writ commanding a restitution to the monks of all tlie property which they had lost in the preceding melee. In 1322. at the burning and desolating of the abbey l)y Edward II., William de Peebles the nhbot, and several of the monks were slain. In 1326, Robert Bruce made a most munificent grant for the re-edification of the abbey, amounting to £2,000 sterling — a vast sum at that period — from his revenue of wards, reliefs, marriages, escheats, and fines within Koxburghshire ; and he seems to have afterwards made other grants and to have been followed in his money-giving patronage by David II. In 1328, writs were issued to the abbot by Edward III. for the restitution of pensions and lands which they had held in England, and which had been taken from them during the war, by the King's father. In 1334, the same monarch granted a protection to Melrose, in common with the other abbeys of tiie Scottisli border; in 1341, he came from Newcastle to keep his Christmas festival in Melrose abbey; and in 1348, he issued a writ " de terris liberandis ab- bati de Meaurose," to deliver to the abbot his lands. Richard II., in 1378, followed the example of Ed- ward in giving a protection to the monks; yet in 1385, when he made his expedition into Scotland, he set fire to the abbey, in common with other reli- gious houses on the Border. But, foiir years after- wards, the monks were indemnified for the damage he did them, by the grant of two shillings on each 2,000 sacks of Scottish wool, and of a portion of the King's custom on hides and woolfels, exported at Berwick; and, in 1390, they received from Richard a formal renewal of protection. During the period of rude, rancorous warfare which intervened be- tween the rebuilding of the edifice under Robert Bruce, and the commencement or precurrent events of the Reformation, the abbey must have sustained many more shocks than are recorded; yet it seems to have rebounded from each blow with undiminished or even increased vigour, and in spite of temporary demolitions, made steady progress in financial great- ness and architectural grandeur. But during the reigns of Henry VIIL, Edward YL, and Elizabeth, it suffered collisions and dilapidations, chiefly from the English and partly from the Scotch, too severe, and in too troublous times, to issue otherwise than in its ruin. In 1544, the English penetrated to Melrose, and destroyed great part of the abbey; in 1545, led by Lords Evers and Latonn, they again pillaged it, and were pursued and beaten on Anerum- moor; and, in the same year, they recrossed the Border under the Earl of Hertford, and a third time laid the abbey waste. "The English commanders," says George "Chalmers, "were studious to leave de- tails of tiie destruction that they committed, which only perpetuates their own disgrace." At length, in 1569, the nobility of Scotland and their military retainers, under the sacred name of the Reformation, and with an unjust reflection of the odium they in- curred on John'Knox and his fellow-reformers, com- pleted by pillage, defacement, and dilapidation, what the English had left to be done in order to the con- version of the pile into an unroofed, gutted, partially overthrown, and altogether yawning ruin. Though the monks of ileirose were exempted by charters and custom from rendering military service to the Crown; yet they fought under James the Steward of Scotland, during the war of the succes- sion; and again tiiey fought under Walter the Stew- ard, in strenuous support of the infant-piince, David Bruce. Declarations were afterwards made by both stewards, and subsequently confirmed by the Duke of Alliany, on the day of the feast of James the Apostle, in 1403, that the military service of the monks having been rendered by the special grace of the abbot and convent, and not in terms of any duty they owed to the Crown, should not be regai-ded as any precedent for their future conduct. Owing to mutual benefits, a very intimate connection seems to have existed, from tlie da3-s of Bruce, or from the foundation of the monastery, between the abbots of Melrose and the Stewarts of Scotland. In 1541, James Y., by a sacrifice of his public policv to his private feelings, solicited and obtained from the Pope, the abbey of iMelrose, in addition to that of Kelso, to be held, in commendam, by his natural son James. At the Reformation, when the lands, rights, and privileges of religious liouses were an- nexed to the Crown, those belonging' to Melrose abbey were granted by Queen Mary to James, Earl of Bothwell. Becoming lost to him by forfeiture ic 1568, they were next, through the influence of the well-known Eirl of Morton, bestowed on James Douglas, the second son of William Douglas of Loch- leven. Some years later, they again sought an owner, and, with some exceptions, were erected into a temporal lordship in favour of Sir John Ramsay, who had protected James YL from the rapier of Gowrv, wlio was created Yiscount of Haddington, and Earl of Holderness in 1606, and who, in 1625, died without issue, leaving the estates to fall back to the Crown. Sir Thomas Hamilton, wlio, from his eminence as a lawyer, rose to high rank and great opulence, who was created Earl of Melrose in 1619, and who afterwards exchanged this title for the vacant one of Earl of Haddington, eventually ob- tained the abbey and the greater part of its domains; and, in more recent times, he has been succeeded in the splendid heritage, by the family of Buccleuch. At the epoch of the Reformation, when the monks were obliged to give up an account of their rentals, the revenues of Melrose abbey were variously stated ; but on one authority, they are recorded to have con- sisted of £1,758 Scottish,— 19 chalders, 9 bolls of wheat,— 77 chalders, 3 bolls of here, — 44 chalders, 1 boll, 2 firlots of oats, — 14 chalders of meal, — 8 chalders of salt,— 105 stones of butter,— 10 dozen of capons, — 26 dozen of poultry, — 376 moor-fowls, — 340 loads of peats,— and 500 earring s. MELROSE, Banffshire. See G.\mi{:e. MELSETTER. See Walls. MELSHACH-HILL. See Kexxltum MELUxXDY. See Dallas. MELVICH, a post-oftice hamlet in Glen Halla- daie, in the parish of Reay. Sutlierlandshire. Its position is on the left bank of the river Ilalladale, im- mediately above the debouch of that stream into Melvichbay, and on the road between Thurso and Tongue, 24 milt s west by south of Thurso, and 8 miles east of Stiatbv. On the opposite bank of the river, and at the h"ead of the bay. stands conspi- cuously the mansion of Bigliouse. long the seat of the ancient branch of the chiefs of the clan Mackay, and now tlie property of the Duke of Sutherland. MELYILLE, an 'ancient parisli on the North Esk, now united chiefly to Lasswade, and partly to Dalkeith, Edinburghshire. An English baron called Male settled in the locality under the reign of Mal- colm IV., and called his manor Male-ville. He w&f IMENMUIR. 416 MERSE. Vicecomes of Edinburgh castle under Malcolm lY., and Juf3ticiaiy under William the Lion. The family acquired other lands in Mid-Lothian during the 13th century, and remained in possession of their ancient manor till the reign of Robert H. The original stock now ending in a female heir, Agnes, her pos- sessions passed by marriage to Sir Jolin Ross of Halkhead, whose descendants were, by James IV., created Lords Ross. The barony of Melville re- mained with tlicm till 1705; and in the course of last centuiy, it was purchased by David Rennie, and passed, by marriage with his daughter, to Henry Dundas, created Viscount Melville in 1802. Melville castle, the residence of the present noble owner, is noticed in our article on Lasswade. Mel- ville church was given by its founder to the monks of Dunfermline, and continued with them till tlie Reformation ; yet, contrary to the usual practice, it was maintained as a rectory, the monks simply holding the right of presenting to the benefice. MELVILLE-HOUSE. See Monimail. MELVILLE-MOUNT. See Anduews (St.) and FlFESHIRE. MENAWAY. See Keig. MENGALAY. See Mingala. MENMUIR, a parisii, containing the hamlet of Tigerton, in the northern part of Forfarshire. Its post-tov7n is Brechin, ]f mile distant from its south- eastern boundary. It is bounded by Lethnot, Strick- athrow, Brechin, Careston, and Fearn. Its length eastward is 6^ miles; and its greatest breadth is 4 miles. Its southern half lies in Strathmore, is flat, retains some marshy grounds, and seems an- ciently to have been what the name Menmure or Menmore is said to signify, ' a great moss.' Most of this flat is now reclaimed and arable, of fair qua- lity in its soil, enclosed and sheltered with fences and with belts of wood, and under skilful cultiva- tion. The whole of this district is traversed length- ways, at an average distance of 5 furlongs from tlie boundary, by Cruick-water, meandering inconstant, freakish, but brief siiuiosities. The soil, while to- wards the stream sliarp and gravelly, becomes loamy as it recedes ; and on the slopes which skirt the plain, it improves into a deep sandy clay, very fer- tile, and showing an expanse of luxuriant land. The northern part of the parish consists of the first gradient in the stupendous shelving ascent of the Binchinnin Grampians. At the east end are the heights of White and Brown Caterthun, remarkable for their antiquities. See Caterthun. Westward of them runs Menmuir-hill, a ridgy height, 2| miles to the western boundary. North of this, in a nook of the parish which projects between Fearn and Lethnot, rises Peat-hill, the first of a water-shed- ding series or ridge of heights which runs 15 miles transversely up the Binchinnin region to its high- est summit line. West- water, one of the two great head-branches of the North Esk, flows a mile along the north, receiving, at the point of impingement, Pelphrie burn, after the latter's course of 2f miles on the same boundary. A chalybeate spring, on the farm of Balhall, was formerly in much repute, but became long ago neglected. The most extensive landowner is Arbuthnot of Balnamoon ; and there are four others. The onlv mansion is Balnamoon- house, a modern edifice. The average rent of land is about £1 5s. per acre. Assessed property in 1860, £7,979 Ifis. 9d. Some of the parishionens are hand-loom linen weavers. 'J'he parish is traversed by the road from Kirriemuir to Fettereairn. Popu- lation in 1831,871; in 1801, 796. Houses, 156.— This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and synod of Angus and Moarns. Patron, Erskine of Bathall. Stipend, £158 2s. 5d. ; glebe, £18. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £15 fees. The parish church is a commodious edifice, built in 1842. There is a Free church for Menmuir, with an attendance of 150; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £156 2s. 8d. MENOCK. See Minnick. MENSTRIE, a post-office village, partly in the parish of Alloa in Clackmannanshire, and partly in the Perthshire portion of the parish of Logic. It stands at the southern base of the Ochil hills, on the road from Stirling to Dollar, 2 miles from Alva, 4 from Alioa, and 5 from Stirling. A streamlet flowing past it, from the Ochils to the Devon, ren- ders it an advantageous site for woollen manufac- ture. A considerable and growing trade has long been carried on in the fabrication of serges, Scotch blankets, and various other woollen goods. Popu- lation, 518. Houses, 117. A popular rhymer as- sumes some spirit of faiiyland to have formerly loved Menstrieforits rural beauty, but to have been driven away from it by the introduction of manufac- tures, and represents the phantom as sometimes saying pathetically at dead of night, — " Oil. Alva woods are boiiiiic, Tillicoultry liills are fair, But when I tliink o' Meiistrie, It niak.s my heart ay sair " MENTEITH See Monteitii. MENZIE-HILL, a locality where there is a mi- neral spring, lone: famous but much overrated, in the parish of EaglesliRm, Renfrewshire. MENZION-BURN, a brook, running in a north- easterly direction to the Tweed, in the parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire. MERCHANTS (The). See Kintyre (Mui,t, of), MERCHISTON-CASTLE, a modernized old cas- tellated mansion, adjacent to the liamlet of Borough- moor, in the south-western outskirts of the city of Edinburgh. It consists of a square tower of the 15th century, with a projection on one side, and considerable modern additions. It was from a very ancient period the patrimony of the family of Na- pier; and here the celebrated inventor of the lo- garithms was born. MERECLEUGHHEAD. See Ettriok. MERKINCH. See Highlands (The), and In- verness-shire. MERKLAND. See Kirkpatrick-Fleming. MERKLANI) (Loch), a lake on the south-east border of the parish of Edderachyllis, Sutherland- shire. It is about 3 miles in length, extending in a south-easterly direction, and sends its superfluence, by a stream of about 1^ mile in length of course, to Loch-Grian, and through that to Loch-Shin, in the neighbouring parisli of Lairg. It lies within the ancient territory of the Dirriemore forest; and its head is adjacent to the grand central watershed of the kingdom. MEP.KLAND WELL. See Lochrutton. MERRYSTONE, a village in the Gartsherry dis- trict of the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. It is inhabited chiefly by miners, and stands grouped with the other villages of the Coatbridge mineral- field. Popuhition, 676. MERRYSTONE (West), a village in the Cross- hill district of the parish of Old Monkland, Lan- arkshire. Population, 627. MERSE (The), a large champaign fertile district on the eastern part of the Scottish border. In mo- dern political distribution of territory, it is the largest and most southerly of the three districts of Berwickshire, and, according to Timothy Font's survey of that county in the reign of CharlciS I., con- tains 202.3- square miles, or 129,600 statute acres ; in loose popular phraseology, it is the whole of Ber- MERTON. 417 IVIETHLICK. wickshire, and strictly identical with the county ; and in topographical nomenclature, based on strict reference to uniqueness of geographical feature, it is the whole low country lying immediately north of the Tweed, semicircuhxrly screened by the Lam- mermoor-hills and the heights of Teviotdale, and including all the political Merse of Berwickshire, and all the district of Roxburghshire which lies on the left bank of the Tweed. Ancient politiciil usage not only sanctioned the last of these senses, but carried the Merse into the lowlands of Teviotdale, and viewed Roxburgh-castle, situated on the right bank of the Tweed, as the capital of tlie whole dis- trict. The name is combined with that of Teviot- dale as the designation of a synod, the second in the General Assembly's list. MERSINGTON. See Echt. MERTON, a parish in the extreme south-west of Berwickshii-e. It projects from the I'cst of the county, and is bounded on the north by Earlston, and on all other sides by Roxburghshire. Its post-town is St. Boswells, adjacent to its southern boundar}'. Its length eastward is about 5 miles ; and its breadth varies from If to 4^ miles. The Tweed flows along the whole western and southern boundary, and makes three large and unusually fine reduplications, one of which sweeps round Dryburgh abbey, another the church of Merton, and the third, on the opposite bank, the beautiful peninsula of Old Melrose. The ground rises, in a great variety of gradient and out- line, eastward and northward, from the river, — is agreeably diversified with hedge-rows and planta- tions, — and exhibits, in its diversity of haugh and bold bank, cliffy, steep, and gentle ascent, rolling surface and level table-land, a scene of great pic- turcsqueness within narrow limits. The view which meets the eye in passing from the village of Newton on the opposite bank, to visit Dryburgh abbey, is, for its smallness of scope, one of the most delight- fully impressive in Scotland. See Drtburoh. But from the summit of Bemersyde-hill in the west, where the ground in general is high, the parish, while picturesque in itself, commands a prospect of the vale of Melrose, and of a long eastward stripe of the basin of the Tweed, a near view of the Eildon hills, and a distant one of the blue Cheviots, unit- edly a landscape of exquisite loveliness and many a romantic feature. " Wood, water, hills, ruins, and fertile fields," are words which do not even give a fair list of its elements, and afford no hint whatever of the warm colours, the fine groupings, and the bold contrasts and blending beauties of the scene. The soil, toward the Tweed, particularly in the haughs, is shai-p with a gravelly bottom; and else- where it is, with few exceptions, a stiff cla}^ super- incumbent on till. About 500 acres are planted. Reddish coloured sandstone, very durable, and ad- mitting a fine polish, abounds along the Tweed, and formeriy was quarried. There are five landowners. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £8,768 5s. Sd. The principal residences are Merton-house, belonging to Lord Polwarth, Dryburgh-abbey, be- longing to the Earl of Buchan, and Bemersyde- house, belonging to Haig of Bemersyde. Tlie fa- mily of Haig, says Sir Robert Douglas, " is of great antiquity in the south of Scotland ; and in our ancient writings, the name is written De Haga. Some authors are of opinion that they are of Pictish ex- traction ; others think they are descended from the ancient Britons ; but as we cannot pretend, by good authority, to trace them to their origin, we shall insist no farther upon traditional history, and deduce their descent by indisputable documents from Petrus de Haga, who was undoubtedly pro- prietor of the lands and barony of Bemersyde in TI Berwickshire, and lived in the reign of King Mal- colm IV. and William the Lion." Captain Uutter- bnck is made to say, in ' the Monastery,' that his friend the sage Benedictine could tell to a dnv when the Do Ilagas settled in the coiuitry. A remote tra- dition, towering up in admiration of the antiquity of the family, affirms that it will never become ex- tinct ; and having been thrown into a doggerel rhyme, it has, like some other things of the sort, been fathered upon Thomas of Erceldoun, and called a prophecy. The parish enjoys easy access across the Tweed to tlie Melrose, Newton, and Maxton stations of the Edinburgh and Kelso railway. Po- pulation in 1831, GG4; in ISfil, 729. Houses, 133. This parish is in the presbytery of Lauder, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale." Patron, Lord Polwarth. Stipend, £259 6s. 4d.; glebe, £14. Un- appropriated teinds, £G3 3s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with £10 fees, and £4 4s. other emolu- ments. The parish church was built in 1658, and repaired in 1820. The ancient church was given by David I. to the canons of Dryburgh, and re- mained a vicarage under them till the Reformation. MERTON, Wigtonshire. See Mociikum. MESHIE (The), a brook running northward to the Spey at a point nearly opposite Laggan-churcb, in Badenoch, Inverness-shire. METHILL, a seaport village in the parish of Wemyss, Fifeshirc. It stands on the shore of the frith of Forth, contiguous to the detached portion of the parish of Markinch, about h a mile south- west of Inverleven, and about 1 mile north-east of Buckhaven. It was erected into a free burgh of barony, in 1662, by the bishop of St. Andrews. Its harbour has long had the reputation of being one of the best on the south coast of Fifeshire. Its east pier was extensively overthrown by a storm in 1803, with the effect of considerablj' choking the entrance to the harbour ; but this was repaired in 1838, at the cost of upwards of £1,800. The amount of harbour dues levied in 1852 was £87. A chapel of ease was built in the village, as an extension church, in 1838, at the cost of £1,050; and it con- tains 800 sittings, and is in the patronage of the male communicants. A district, comprising the village of Methill and some country around it, was temporarily an ecclesiastically constituted quoad sacra parish; and this, in 1841, contained a popula- tion of 1,513. Tlie village of Kirkland adjoins tlie village of Methill ; and these two villages had, in 1831, a population of 1.112, and in 1861, a popula- tion of 970. Methill itself had, in 1861, a popula- tion of 522. METHLICK, a parish in the Buchan and For- martine districts of Aberdeenshire. It contains a post-oifice station of its own name, 7 miles north- north-east of Old Meldram. The parish comprises a main body and a small detached district. The main body is bounded by New Deer, Ellon, Tarves, Fy vie, and Monquhitter. The detached district lies to the east of the main body, is separated from it by a tongue of Tarves, and is called variously Little Drumquhindle, Inverehrie, and Six Ploughs, — the second of these names being indicative of its situa- tion at the confluence of the brook Ebrie with the Ythan, and the last an allusion to its extent as measured in olden times by the work of six ploughs. The extent of the parish from north to south is about 8 miles ; and from west to east, exclusive of the detached district, about 5 miles. The river Ythan runs soutii-eastward across the main body, having about two-thirds of the whole on its left bank in Buchan, and about one-third on its right bank in Formartine. The water of Gight traces the western boundary southward to the Ythan. The water o*" 2 J) METHV^EN. 418 METHVEN. Kelly drains the southern district eastward and northward to the Ythan. Tlie banks of the Ythan within the parish are mostly clotlied with wood. The south-eastern district is wholly occupied by the beautifully ornate policies of Haddo-House. See the article Haddo. In the northern district there is a considerable tract of barren land on parts of the hills of Balquhindacy, Belnagoak, and Skilinoney, most of whose surface, however, is in cultivation. About 2,000 Scotch acres, or more, have been brought into cultivation within the last 55 years; and nearly as many acres have been planted. The best land lies within 1^ mile of either side of the Ythan. The soil there is'a yellow loam on a gravelly and rocky bottom ; but the soil further from the river becomes poorer, and is principally a light, black mould ou a moorband pan. The predominant rocks are gneiss and syenite. A limestone quarry was worked for some time at Inverebrie. The land- owner of the entire parish is the Earl of Aberdeen. Tlib value of a.ssessed property in 1S60 was £5,818. Population in 1831, 1,439; in 1861, 2,157. Houses, 395. This parish is in the presbytery of Ellon, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Aberdeen. Stipend, £159 13s. 7d.; glebe, £8. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with £40 fees, and £48 other emolu- ments. The parish church was built in 1780, and repaired in 1840, and contains about 600 sittings. There is a Free church with an attendance of 130; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £150 9s. 9d. There are five schools, a parocliial library, and a savings' bank. The rector of Methlick, in the Koman Catholic times, was a prebendary of Aber- deen, residing and ofBciating in that city; and the officiate at Methlick was his vicar or perpetual curate. There were anciently two chapels in the parish, — the one at a place still called Chapelton, the other at Andet, near a farm-house which is still called Chapel-park. Dr. George Cheyne, the author of a treatise on the ' Philosophical Principles of Natural Religion,' and Dr. Charles Maitland, the introducer of vaccine inoculation into Britain, were natives of Methlick. Fairs, principally for hii-ing, are held on the Thursday after the 11th day of May, and on the day in November after Peterhead. There is in the parish an otKce of the North of Scotland bank. METHVEN, a parish, containing the post-office villages of Methven and Almondbank, also the vil- lage of Scrogiehill, in the Glenalmond district of Perthshire. It is bounded by Monedie, Eedgorton, Tibbermore, Gask, and Fowlis- Wester. Its length eastward is 5 miles; and its breadth is between 3 and 4 miles. The surface is agreeably diversified with hollows and rising grounds, but is nowhere hilly, and in general slopes to the south, and ter- minates in a narrow plain. In few districts has georgical operation wrought higher achievements in reclaiming stubborn waste ground, and covering it with the beauties of husbandry and the forest. Though formerly a large proportion was moorish common, all the area, with very trivial exceptions, has now a warm, sheltered, rich, and highl}' cul- tivated appearance. The soil in the north is thin, sharp loam ; and, in the other districts, is principally clay, but gives place to tracts of loam and gravel. The wood of Methven is a natural forest, upwards of 200 acres in extent, chiefly oak, birch, and hazel, and has long been periodically cut as coppice. Plantations exist to the aggregate extent of not less than 1,500 acres, and are so disposed in rows and belts among the arable grounds, and in clumps crowning the rising grounds, as to give a cheerful aspect to the landscape. Almond-water describes the segment of a circle over a distance of 6J miles, cutting off from the main body of the parish part of the lands of Lynedoch, but elsewhere running along the boundary. It flows in a rapid cnrient between bold rocky banks, which are alternately bare and wooded ; and in passing the estate of Lynedoch, and the woods of Methven-castle, it furnishes some very picturesque views. A stream called the I'ow, or Powaft'ray, rises in two head- waters in the west, one of which runs 2^ miles along the boundary, and the other convergently to it in the interior ; and the two uniting at the south-western extremity of the par ish, the joint stream goes away to become tributary to the Earn. Another stream rises near the sources of the former, and runs in a zigzag course, 4^ miles through the interior, past the village of Methven, and 3 miles along the southern boundary to the Almond. Light-grey sandstone and greenstone abound, and are quarried — the former for building, and the latter for causewaying and macadamizing. Methven-castle, the seat of Smythe of Methven, a fine baronial edifice of the 17th century, stands on a bold acclivitous I'ising ground, f of a mile east of Methven village. Its park is celebrated as the scene of Eobert Bruce's defeat in 1306 by the Eng- lish troops, under the Earl of Pembroke. Lyncdnch- house occupies a very beautiful site on the left bank of the Almond, 1| mile north-east of Methven village. See Lynedoch. The parish is traversed westward by the road from Perth to Crieff. A bill was introduced to Parliament in the sum.mer of 1856 for a railway from Methven to Perth, estimated to cost £24,000. The village of Methven stands on the Perth and Crieff road, 6 miles west by north of Perth, and 11 east by north of Crieff. It is neatly edificed. Its inhabitants are chiefly employed in hand-loom cotton weaving, and have most of their work, through resident agents, from manufacturers in Glasgow. Fairs are held on the Monday in May before Amulree, on the first Thursday of August, and on the fourth Thursday of October. The popu- lation of the village is about 1,000. Population of the pai-ish in 1831, 2,714; in 1861, 2.347. Houses, 438. Assessed property in 1860, £12,165 5s. 2d. Previous to 1323, the lands of Methven belonged to the Mowbrays, whose ancestor, Roger Mowbray, a Norman, accompanied William the Conqueror to England. " A branch of this family," says the Old Statistical Account, " afterwards established itself in Scotland, and became very flourishing. To Sir Roger Mowbray belonged the baronies of Kelly, Eckford, Dalmeny, and Methven, lying in the shires of Forfar, Roxburgh, Linlithgow, and Perth; but, for adheiing to the Baliol and English interest, his lands were confiscated by Robert I., who bestowed Eckford, Kelly, and Methven, on his son-in-law, Walter, the eiglith hereditary lord-high-steward of Scotland, whose son, Eobert, was afterwards king, and the second of the name, in right of his mother, Marjory Bruce, daughter of Robert I. The lordship of Methven was granted by him to Walter Stewart, Earl of Athole, his second son, by Euphame Ross, his second wife; and, after his forfeiture, remained in the Crown a considerable time. It became part of the dowry lands usually appropriated for the maintenance of the queen-dowager of Scotland, to- gether with the lordship and castle of Stirling, and the lands of Balquhidder, &c., all of which were settled on Margaret, queen-dowager of James IV., who, in the year 1524, having divorced her second husband, Archibald, Earl of Angus, married Henry Stewart, second son of Andrew Lord Evandale, afterwards Ochiltree, a descendant of Robert, Duke of Albany, son of King Eobert II. Margaret was the eldest daughter of Henry VII. of England, in whose right James VI. of Scotland, her great-grand- son, succeeded to that crown on the death of Queen Elizabeth. She procured for her third husband a peerage from her son, James V., under the title of Lord Metliven, anno 1523; and, on this occasion, the barony of Methven was dissolved from the Crown, and erected into a lordship, in favour of Henry- Stewart and his heirs male, on the Queen's resign- ing her jointure of the lordship of Stirling. By Lord Methven she had a daughter, who died in in- fancy, before herself. The Queen died at the castle of Methven in 1540, and was buried at Perth, beside the body of King James L Lord Methven after- wards married Janet Stewart, daughter of the Earl of Athole, by whom he had a son, Henry IL, Lord Methven, who mai-ried Jean, daughter of Patrick, Lord Euthven, and was killed at Broughton by a cannon-ball from the castle of Edinburgh, in 1572, leaving a son, Henry HI., Lord Methven, who died without issue. This third Lord Methven is men- tioned on the authority of Stewart's Genealogical Ac- count of the House of Stewart. In the year 1584, the lordship of Methven and Balquhidder was conferred on Lodowick, Duke of Lennox, in whose illustiious family it continued till it was purchased, in 1GG4, by Patrick Smitli of Braco, a great-grandfather of the present Lord Methven, from Charles, the last Duke; who, dying without issue, anno 1672, his honours, (of which Lord Methven was one,) with his estate and hereditary offices, fell to Charles IL as his nearest male-heir; the King's great-grand- father's father, and the Duke's being brothers." The parish of Methven is in the presbytery of Perth, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Smythe of Methven. Stipend, £284 4s. 3d.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated teinds, £422 17s. 2d. School- master's salary now is £50, witli £25 fees, and from £5 to £10 other emoluments. TJie parish church stands at the village of Methven, was built in 1783, and enlarged in 1825, and contains ajjout 1,100 sittings. There is a Free church at Methven, with an attendance of about 200; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £73 2s. 4jd. There is an United Presbyterian church at Methven, with an attendance of about 230. There are in the parish several non-parochial schools, a public library, and an agricultural association. Tlie earliest religious establishment of tlie parish was a collegiate church, founded and endowed with lands and tithes, in 1433, for a provost and several prebendaries, by Walter Stewart, Earl of Athole. An aisle, now the burying- place of the family of Methven, and anciently con- nected with the original church, has a stone sculp- tured with the royal lion of Scotland, surmounted by a crown, and seems to have been erected by some of the royal family, — probably by Margaret, the mother of James V., when residing at Methven- castle. There is also in the burying-ground an aisle containing the remains of the late Lord Lynedocli, and now the property of Mr. Graham of Redgorton. MEY, an ancient barony and chapelry, now in- corporated with the estate of the Earl of Caithness, and still imparting its name to various localities in the parish of Canisbay, Caithness-shire. Mey-head, or St. John's liead, is situated 2 miles south-west of the island of Stroma, in the Pentland frith, and was the site of the ancient chapel of Mey, dedicated to St. John. Immediately off tliis headland is a dan- gerous piece of sea, jagged with some rocky islets which look iip from the surface only during ebb-tide, and bear the designation of the i\Ien of Mey. A locality on the coast, 3 miles west of the headland, i.s called the Mill of Mey, and is the site of a Scot- tish Baptist place of worship. Loch-Mey lies half- -mile south of this i.> of no great depth, and mea- sures about U mile in circumference. The hamle* Mey stands | of a-milo south of the lake, on the coist road from Thurso, and 13 miles east of that town ; and it possesses a post-olBce, and commands an extensive field of limestone deposit. See Ca- nisbay. MEYEICK, a mountain, having an altitude of about 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, in the parish of Minnigaff, Kirkcudbrightshire. MIAGIIAILT (Loch), a small fresh water lake, discharging its superfluence by a subterraneous pas- sage through rocks to the sea, in the parish of Kil- muir, in the island of Skye. MICHAEL'S (St.). See Chpak and Dcmfries. MICKERY. See Inch Mickekt. MID-CALDER. See Calder (Mid). MIDDLEBIE, a parish, containing the post-oflSce villages of Eaglesfield, Kirtlebridge, and Waterbcck, in Dumfries-shire. It lies partly in Annandale. and partly between that district and Eskdale. It is bounded by Tundergarth, Langholm, Half-Morton, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, Annan, and Hoddam. Its length west-south-westward is 9 miles; and its greatest breadth is 4^ miles. The surface along the south and south-west is low and undulating, along the centre has considerable rising grounds, along the north and north-east becomes wild and moun- tainous, and altogether forms a transition-tract be- tween the agricultural valley of lower Annandale and the pastoral heights of upper Eskdale. About 300 acres, chiefly on a hill in the south-west comer, are planted; between a fifth and a fourth of the whole area is in tillage; and all the remainder is pastoral or waste. The soil is very various, but, for the most part, is either a stiff or a loamy clay. Limestone is rich and plentiful. Freestone of a reddish colour abounds. Expensive but hitherto vain searches have been made for coal. Kirtle- water rises in the north-east corner of the parish, runs 7^ miles partly in the interior and partly along the southern boundary, and, for some time before taking its leave, assumes a sweetly picturesque dress. Mein-water rises close on the northern boundary, and has much the greater part of its course in the interior and along the margin before falling into the Annan. The principal landowners are the Duke of Fjuccleuch, Sir F. J. W. Jolnistone, Bart., Sir John H. Maxwell, Bart., and Sharpe of Hoddam. The estimated value of raw produce in 1835 was £26,000. The value of assessed property in 1843 was £8.192 2s. 6d. Tlie real rental in 1860 was £10,047. There were anciently several peel- houses in the parish, but the only extant one is the ruinous tower of Blackett-house. At Birrens, a little south of the parish church, are perfectly dis- tinct remains of the fossje, aggeres, and praetorium of a Roman camp. It lies 2h miles south-east of tlie kindred one on Brunswark-hill in Hoddam. The ' Bells of I^Iiddlebie ' was formerly a phrase noted and current in Dumfries-shire, owing to the great preponderance of the name among the parish- ioners. One of the Bells of Blackett-house figured in the tragical story of ' Fair Helen of Kirkconnel Lee:' see Kirkconxel. Dr. Currie of Liverpool, tlie author of ' Tlie Life of Burns ' and of other works, was a native of Middlebie. A number of the inabitants are employed in cotton and linen weaving. The parish is traversed by the road from Glasgow to Carlisle, and by the main trunk of the Caledonian railway; and it has a station on the latter at Kirtk- bridsre, 3 miles from Ecclefechan. Population in 1831, 2,107; in 1861, 2,(t04. Houses, 3S9. This parish is in tlic presbytery of Annan, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £218 lis.; glebe, £27 10s. The parisli MIDDLESHAW 420 MIGVIE. cimrch was built in 1821, and contains 534 sittings. There is an United Presbyterian church at Water- beck, whicli was built in 1792, and contains 490 sittings. There are two parochial scliools; and the teaclier of each has now a salary of £35, and about £24 fees. There are four private schools, and a cir- culating library. The present parish of Middlebie comprehends the ancient parishes of Middlebie, Pen- ersax, and Carruthers, which were united in 1609. Middlebie, means in Anglo-Saxon * the Middle dwelling or middle station,' and distinguishes the Roman work near the church from those of Nether- bie in Cumberland and Overbie in Eskdale-muir, in opposite directions, and each about 10 miles distant. The lands of Middlebie belonged, before the Refor- mation, to the noble family of Carlyle, and, for the most part, passed, in the reign of James VI., into the possession of Sir James Douglas of Drumlanrig, the ancestor of the Dukes of Queensberry. Pener- sax, written also Penesax and Pennisax, vulgarized into Penersaughs, and perhaps originally Pen-y-sax, ' the summit of the Saxons,' lay along the Mein, and forms the western part of the united parish. Its church stood on the south side of the Mein, but has long ago disappeared. The lands of Penersax be- longed, in the 15tli century, to Kilpatrick of Dal- garnock, passed, in 1499, to Carruthers of Mouse- wald, and, in the reign of James VI., were acquired by the Drumlanrig family. On a height above the site of the ancient hamlet of Carruthers stood a British fortlet, whence came the name Caer-rhythyr, ' the fort of the assault.' Carruthers forms the eastern part of the united parish. Its lands anciently belonged to the Earls of Bothwell ; they fell to the Crown by the forfeiture of Earl James in 1567; they were given by James VI., along with the earldom, to his worthless nephew Francis Stewart, and were forfeited by tljat traitor in 1592; and they subse- quently followed the lands in their vicinity into the possession of the Douglases of Drumlanrig. All the three parishes were anciently rectories. Middlebie, for some time after the Reformation, was the seat of a presliytery; but, in 1743, it was shorn of the honour, in favour of Annan and Langholm. MIDDLEFOODIE. See Dairsje. MIDDLESHAW, a post-office station subordinate to Lockerby, Dumfries-shire. MIDDLETON, a village in the parish of Borth- wick, Edinburghshire. It is pleasantly situated on the old road from Edinburgh to Galashiels, 13 miles south-south-east of Edinburgh. It was formerly a place of some importance, having a stage inn. It was likewise at one time a chief seat of the tinkers or gipsies. But it is now an entirely rural place, inhabited principally by persons employed in agri- culture. Population, 148. Houses, 32. MIDDLETON, a village in the parish of Orwell, Kinross-shire. Population, 66. Houses, 13. MIDDLETON, Forfarsliire. See Kirkden and Friocrheim. MIDDLETON, Kincardineshire. See Fetter- cairn. MIDDLETON (North), a village in the parish of Borthwick, Edinburghshire. It consists of a line of cottages by the way- side, built since 1S25. Pop- ulation, 68. Houses, 15. MIDHOLM. See Midlem. MIDHOPE, an ancient residence of the Earls of Linlithgow on the north-west border of the parish of Abercorn, Linlithgowshire. It consists of a square turreted tower, with an unsightly addition on its east side. Its vipper stories are inhabited by labour- ers, and are reached by an ancient oaken massive stair, MIDHOPE BURN, a rivulet of Linlithgowshire, rising in the parish of Linlithgow, and running 7 miles east-north-eastward, partly through that par- ish, and partly on the boundary between Abercorn and Carriden, to the frith of Forth at Nethermill. It is also called Nethermill- burn. The lower part of its course is through a deep wooded glen. MIDLAND JUNCTION RAILWAY. See Scot- tish Midland Junction Railway. MIDLEM, or Midholm, a village in the parish of Bowden, Roxburghshire. It stands on the road from Selkirk to Kelso, 3^ miles east of Selkirk. Here are an Original Secession church and a paro- chial school. Population, 185. Houses, 50. MIDMAR, a parish in the Kincardine-O'Neil dis- trict of Aberdeenshire. Its post-town is Edit, a short way beyond its eastern border. It is bounded on the south by Kincardineshire, and on other sides by the parishes of Kincardine-O'Neil, Cluny, and Echt. Its length eastward is nearly 7 miles; and its greatest breadth is 5§ miles. It lies midway between the Dee and the Don, about 15 miles west of Aberdeen. Its surface is very diversified, com- prising part of the hill of Fare, two elevated hill- ridges, and many eminences, together with intersect- ing vales and hollows; yet, excepting in its portion of the hill of Fare, it cannot properly, in any part, be termed upland. See Fare (Hill of). Some of the arable land in the north-west has an elevation of upwards of 700 feet above sea-level ; but the arable land of the other districts has not an average elevation of more than about 460 feet. The soil on the slopes of the hills is, to a great extent, a thin soil of sand and clay, occasionally of a loamy character, super- incumbent on gravel. The prevailing rocks are granite and whinstone. About 3,600 Scotch acres are in tillage; about 1,300 are under plantation; about 800 are good pasture; and about 4,080 are moss and moorland. The most extensive landowner is Col. Gordon of Clun)^; and there are two others. Midmar-castle, a seat not now inhabited, stands on the north side of Fare-liill, about 300 feet from its base, and commands an extensive and very beautiful prospect to the north and north-east. The estimated value of the raw produce of the parish in 1842 was £11,780. Assessed property in 1860, £5,716. On the moor of Dahariek, a battle is said to have been fought between Wallace and Cumyn. A rivulet that runs through that tract is called Douglas-burn, from the name of a hero who fell in this engagement. The parish is traversed by the road from Aberdeen to Tarland; and its southern part is within available distance of the Banchory station of the Deeside rail- way. Population in 1831, 1,056; in 1861, 1,091. Houses, 204. This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine- O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patrons, the Crown and Sir W. Forbes, Bart. Stipend, £223 14s. 7d.; glebe, £25. Schoolmaster's salary, £43, with £30 fees, a siiare in the Dick bequest, and some other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1787, and contains about 600 sittings. There is a Free church preaching station at Bankhead, with an at- tendance of about 230; and the amount raised in connexion with it in 1856 was £79 7s. lOd. There is also an United Presbyterian church of Midmar. There are three private schools. MIDSTRATH. See Birse. MID-YELL. See Yell. MIGDALE, a lake about 2 miles long and 1 broad, in the parish of Criech, Sutherlandshire. It lies about Ih mile north of the Dornoch frith. MIGLO (The), the head-stream of the Eden, flow- ing eastward through the parish of Strathmiglo, and giving name to that parish, in Fifeshire. MIGVIE, a parish in Aberdeenshire, united to that of Tarland : which see. MILDRIGGEN. 421 MiLLPOiiT. MILBUY. SeeMuLLBUT. MILDRIGGEN (The), a small tributary of the river Bladenoch, in the parish of Kirkiniier,Wig- tonshire. MILE- END. See Glasgow. MILGUY. See Milngavie. MILK (The), a rivulet of Annandale, Dumfries- shire. It rises in the north-east extremity of Tun- dergarth, and runs IJ mile to the boundary with Hutton and Corrie. Thence, over a distance of 9J miles, it divides Tundergarth, on its left bank, from Hutton and Corrie, Dryfesdale and St. Mungo, on its right. Its prevailing direction over this part of its course, except for IJ mile of southerly run at the end, is south-west ; and it receives in its pro- gress Corrie-water from the north, and about twenty independent and chiefly very short brooks. Leaving Tundergarth it flows southward 2^ miles through St. Mungo, and 1 mile between that parish and Hoddam to the Annan, half-a-mile above Hoddam- castle. In the upper half of its cour.se, it is a chilly mountain stream ; but over most of the lower half, it has fringings of wood and of pleasing landscape. About midway in its progress through St. Mungo it is overlooked by the mansion of Castlemilk. MILLAESTON. See Millekston. MILLBANK, a locality, with a long established paper-mill, in the parish of Ayton, Berwickshire. MILLBANK, Aberdeenshire. See Loxgside. MILLBAy, a village in the island of Luing, in the parish of Kilbrandon, Argyleshire. It was built for the accommodation of the workers in the slate quarries. MILL-BAY, a bay on the east side of the island of Stronsay, in Orkney. MILLBRAKE. See Deer. MILLBREX. See Fyvie. MILLBRIDGE, a hamlet in the parish of Cath- cart, Renfrewshire. Population, 22. Houses, 5. MILLBURN, any brook driving a mill, or any locality washed by such brook and taking name from it. Brooks and localities of the name of Mill- burn are very numerous in Scotland, — many of them probably having received the name in the times of thirlage, when the mill of an estate or barony, to- gether with the brook which drove it, was an object of local interest inferior only to the church and the manor-house. Among the parishes in which the name occurs are Crawfordjohn, Dirleton, West-Kil- hride, North-Berwick, Renfrew, Dalscrf, Bonhill, Tarbolton, Castleton, and Ratho. MILLCROFT, a village adjacent to Creebridge, in the parisli of Minnigaff, Kirkcudbrightshire. MILLDENS. See Belhelvje. MILLEARN. See Trinity Gask. MILLENWOOD. See Castleton. MILLERHILL, a post-office village in the parish of Newton, Edinburghshire. It stands adjacent to the Edinburgh and Dalkeith railway, 1^ mile north- north-west of Dalkeith; It is inhabited principally by colliers. There are, however, two Millerhills, — the Easter and the Wester. Population of Easter Millerhill, 309. Population of Wester Miller- hill, 70. MILLER'S ACRE. See Forteviot. MILLERSTON, one of the western suburiis of Paisley, situated within the parliamentary burgh of Paisley, in Renfrewshire. MILLERSTON, a village in the Barony parish of Glasgow, Lanarkshire. Here are a chapel of ease and a Free church preaching station ; at the latter of which, the sum of £63 16s. Id. was collected in 1856. Population, 466. MILLFIELD, a village in the parish of Tnver- k^illor Forfarshire. Population, 65. Houses, 12. MILLGUY. See Milngavie. MILLHALL. See Eaglesham. MILLHEUGIi, a village in the parish of Dalserf, Lanarkshire. It stands in the northern part of the parish, on the Glasgow and Cariisle road, in tiie vicinity of Larkhall. A bleachfield was commenced here about 16 years ago. Population, 384. MILLHOUSE, a post-office station subordinate to Lockerby, Dumfries-shire. MILLHOUSE, a post-office station subordinate to Greenock, Renfrewshire. MILLHOUSE, a manufacturing locality in the parish of Liff and Benvie, 3 miles north of Dundee^ Forfarshire. MILLHOUSE, Lanarkshire. See Kilbride (EAst\ MILLIKEN. See Kilbarciian. MILLIKEN-PARK, a station on the Glasgow and South-western railway, 1^ mile south-west of Johnstone, in Renfrewshire. MILLMOUNT. See Kilmuir (Easter). MILLOF-HALDEN, a village in the parish of Bonhill, Dumbartonshire. Population, 147. Houses, 27. MILLPORT, a post-town, seaport, and watermg- place, on the island of Big Cuinbiay, Buteshire. It stretches round a pleasantly sheltered small bay at the south end of the island; partly overlooks the Little Cumbray, and partly confronts the opening through Faille}' road to the bay of Ayr or eastern side of the frith of Clyde ; and is situated 2^ miles west of the nearest part of the Ayrshire coast, 5 miles south-west of Largs, 1 1 south-east of Rothesaj', and 24 south of Greenock. Its form is that of the' segment of a circle ; its houses are almost all neat, two storey, whitewashed structures ; its handsome parish-church, surmounted by a low square tower, looks out from an area in the middle of the curve ; and the entire appearance of the place is airy, clean, and not a little pleasant. But for a great paucity of wood in the environs, the village and its vicinity would be one of the most beautiful places on the Clyde. Yet either the spot itself, or any one of several vantage-giounds in its innnediate neigh- bouihood, commands magnificent views of the frith of Clyde, the cultivated slopes of the Ayrshire sea board, thickly embellislied with villas and with the body and wings of Fairley and Largs, the spiry and bold mountains of Arran, the gentle coasts of the Isle of Bute, the nigged outlines of the Argyleshire alps, — altogether a most magnificent panorama, great in extent, very diversified in feature, and containing many grand groupings of the pictur- esque. The edifices of the town and its environs, also, are interesting. The Episcopilian church and- college, ill particular, form an elegant range of build- ings, with a pyramidal spire. There are in the town' a Free church, a Baptist place of worship, a paro- chial school, a Free church school, two schools of industry for females, an Episcopalian boys' school, and an Episcopalian girls' school. There are also a reading-room, a public library, a Free church con- gregational librarv, an Episcopalian lending library, a gas light company, and a harbour company. There are five resident justices of the peace; and sheriff small debt courts are held in February, ]\lay, August, and November. Millport is a creek of the port of Greenock. The amount of harbour dues levied in 1852 was £210. The harbour, though of small capacity, can contain vessels' of considerable burthen ; and has a fine pier, erected chieflv at the expense of the Marquis of Bute. The depth, at low water, is 6 feet, and, at high-water, 14 feet. Immediately adjacent to' the harbour is a good anchoring ground, capable of| accommodating several ships, fully protected bvtwrC MILLS-OF-DRUINI. 422 MILTON. islets called the Allans, and atlbiding safety to ves- sels during the prevalence of the most violent storms. Fifteen or sixteen sloops belong to the place, some carrying so few as 14 and none more tiian 40 tons each. (Six steam-boats in summer, and two in win- ter, maintain daily communication with Glasgow, and with places intermediate. Millport depends, to a large extent, for its support on the indux during summer of temporary lesidents from Glasgow; it wears almost wholly and even characteristically the aspect of a sea-bathiug quarter ; and it has steadily risen and maintained its footing in popular favour. The operative part of the population are employed either in the fisheries, or in weaving for the manu- facturers of Glasgow. The number of looms is about twenty. The population at the Census in April 1861 was 1,104. MILLSEAT. Sje Kixg-Euwahd. MlLLS-OF-DllUM, a station on the Deeside rail- way, the fiist station east of Banchory, and adjacent to the boundary between Kincaidiiieshire and Aber- deensiure. MlLLS-OF-FOirni. See MiLNATHoitr. MlLLTLMliEE, a station on tlie Deeside railway, intermediate between Murtle and Culter, Aberdeen- shire. MILLTOWN. See Milton. MILMAD. See Corse. MILNATHOKT, a post and market-town in the parish of Orwell, Kinross-shire. It stands on North Queich-water, at the intersection of the road from Edinburgli to Perth with the road from Cupar to Stirling, If mile north by east of Kinross, and 14 miles south of Perth. Its site is f of a mile from the north-west corner of Loch-Leven, amid the fine tract of country which is screened by the Lomond- hills on the east and by the Ochil-hills on the north and the west. The town is neatly built, and con- sists of live good streets. A crazy, shabby old bridge formejly bestrode the Queich here; but this was recently supei seded by a handsome new struc- tm"e. The parish church stands on a height in the vicinity; and there are in the town a Free church, an United Presbyterian church, and several schools. The town, also, has a large public library and some other institutions; and it is lighted with gas from the works which supply the town of Kinross. The inhabitants of Milnathort, for a long series of years, were employed chiefly in cotton-weaving; but, owing to the decline of wages, ihcy, almost at one bound, leaped, about 18 years ago, into the new and much more remunerating occupation of weaving tartan shawls and plaiding; and, though their old work- shops were, in general, too small to admit the larger looms which became necessary, they broke alertly through the difiiculty, and, when other resources did not offer, obtained accommodation in large aiiy buildings constructed on speculation for their use, and let to thein in " stances " for hire. The villagers, as a community, are characterized by enterprise, en- lightenment, and an advanced state of social pro- gress. A large portion of them also count ancestry from some of the earliest and staunchest Seceders, and maintain with firmness the principles of the Secession. Their village, being the nearest large one to the seat of the Kev. Ebenezer Erskine's long- continued ministry in the adjacent parish of Port- moak, became an early stronghold of dissent ; and has, to a great extent, witnessed in miniatuie the scenes of the general Secession history. Annual fairs are held, for the sale of cattle and horses, on the second Thursday of February, and the Thursday preceding the 25tli of December; and, for the sale of cattle, sheep, and horses, on the last AVedncsday of April, old style, the 9th day of July, the 29th of August, and the 5th of November. A weekly mar- ket is also held for the sale of corn by sample. An act of parliament was passed in 1855, for making a railway from the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway at Ladybank, by way of Auctermuchty and Strathmiglo, to Milnathort and ICinross. The popular name of Milnathort is Mills-of-Forth, — a name most probably suggested by the designation Forthrif, which anciently belonged to the circum- jacent district. Population in ISO'l, 1,47*>. MILNGAVIE, a small post-town, and seat of manufacture, in the Stirlingshire part of the parish of New Kilpatrick. It stands on AUander-watcr, 4 miles south of Strathblane, 4| east of Duntocher, and 7 north-west of Glasgow. It is tolerably well built, and has a chapel of ease, an United Presby- terian church, a mechanics' institution and a public library. There are in the town, or in its vicinity, a cotton-factory, extensive calico-printing and bleach- ing establishments, and several corn- mills. Daily comnumication is maintained by stage-coach with Glasgow. The popular name of the town, or cor- ruption of the name, is Millguy. Population in 1861, 1,895. MILNHEAD. See Kiiikmahoe. MILNHOLM. See Castletox. MILNIilGGS. See Cunningham. MILNTOWN, a village in Glenurquhart, in the parish of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, Inverness- shire. MILNTOWN, a village in the parish of Kilnmir- Easter, Eoss-shire. Four yearly fairs are held in it. Popixlation, 200. Houses, 43. MILTON, a village in the parish of Eothiema}', Banflshire. Population, 79. Houses, 25. MILTON, a manufacturing village in the parish of Old Kilpatrick, Dimibartonshire. It stands in the vicinity of Duntocher, and has a large cotton- I'actory, which was begun in 1821, and was built on the site of the Dalnotter iron-works. Population, 136. Houses, 68. MILTON, a village in the parisli of Glammis, Forfarshire. Population, 83. Houses, 18. MILTON, a fishing village in the parisli of St. Cyrus, Kincardineshire. It was formerly a place of some importance, comprising several parallel ranges of houses with gardens and bleaching greens ; but, during the last 60 or 70 years, it has suffered so much injury from the encroachment of the sea, and from other causes, as to be now both small and ruin- ous, containing not more than 10 inhabited houses, with an aggregate population of less than 50. In its vicinity is a strong chalybeate spring, which had for some time a considerable medicinal repute. MILTON, one of the northern suburbs of the city of Glasgow, Lanarkshire. Within it are a chapel of ease and a Free church, Avhich take designation from it. See Glasgow. JMILTON, a small village on the banks of the Ruthven, in the parish of Auchterarder, Perth- shire. MILTON, a post-ofSce village in the parish of Campae, Stirlingshire. It stands on the southern border of the parish, and has a station on the Camp- sie railway, 1^ mile north of Kirkintilloch, and 2 miles south of Lennoxtown. Here is a missionary station, served by a minister of the Established church, and maintained by the contributions of the Campsie parochial congregation. A distillery was formerly in operation at Milton, but has been dis- continued. I'opulation, 562. MILTON, a village in the island of Jura, ArgyJe- shiie. It is the only place in Jura which can be called a village; and part of it bears the separate name of Craigliouse. It has an inn and a distillery MILTON. 423 MINNICK. a corn-mill and a smithy, and is inhabited also by various artificers. MILTON, a hamlet, with a large flour-mill, in the east end of the parish of Kilmarnock, Ayr- shire. MILTON, Morayshire. See Knock ando. MILTON, or Herbertshire, a village in the parish of Dunipace, Stirlingshire. It stands on the left bank of the Carron, in the vicinity of Denny, and is connected with that town by a handsome bridge. Its inhabitants are chiefly persons employed in calico-printing. Population, 761. See Denny. MILTON-BRIDGE, a fine old bridge of 3 arches, taking the highway from Cnrluke to Larkhall over the Clyde, at a point about 18 miles south-east of Glasgow. MILTON-BRIDGE, a post-office station subordi- nate to Penicuick, Edinburghshire. MILTON-BURN. See Fowlis Wester. MILTON-DUFF. See Elgin. MILTONFIELD. See Kilpatrick (0li>). MILTON-LOCH. See Urr. MILTON-LOCKHART. See Carluke. MILTON-OF-BALGONIE. See Balgonie. MILTON- OF-EON AN. See Glenlyon. MILTON-OF-MATHERS. See Milton, Kin- cardineshire. MILTON- OF- STEATHBRAN. See Strath BRAN. MINCH (The), the channel which separates the island of Lewis from the Scottish mainland. It ex- tends in a north-north-easterly direction; has a width of from 20 to 30 miles; is flanked, on all the west side, by the island of Lewis, — on all the east side, by the mainland parts of Ross-shire and Sutherlandshire; opens out, at its north end, into the North sea; and forks, at its south end, round the island of Skye. The water in it is exceedingly salt. The currents through it are regular and very rapid. Its depths are generally great, but so ex- ceedingly variable as to indicate a very rugged bot- tom. The name Minch signifies " the stormy sea." MINCH (The Little), the sound which sepa- rates the Outer Hebrides from the island of Skye. It is a continuation southward of the western side of the Minch. Its breadth varies from 10 to 20 miles. Its west side is flanked chiefly by the southern part of Harris, and by North Uist and Benbecixla. MINCHMOOR, a broad-based, but short moun- tain-ridge, extending north and south on the mutual border of the parishes of Traquair and Yarrow, in the counties respectively of Peebles and Selkirk. The highest summit rises 2,285 feet above sea-level. A little north of this, an old road crosses the ridge communicating between Peebles and Selkirk. This road, from the great altitude to which it rises, and the wildness of the scene which it traverses, is a remarkable specimen of the ancient straightforward thoroughfares, which scorned a detour, and mounted boldly up in the face of formidable obstructions. The road was the path of Montrose's retreat from Philiphaugh; and it is still used by foot-passengers who scorn the luxury of a level but circuitous thoroughfare. By the wayside, in a wild part of the hill, there is a spring called Cheese-well, which was anciently believed to be under fairy government, and is said to have received its name from the prac- tice of passengers dropping into it bits of cheese as off'erings to the fairies. MINDERNAL. See Durris. MINDORK-CASTLE. See Kirkcowan. MINEFIELD. See Creran (Loch). MINES, a village in the parish of Minnigaff, Kirkcudbrightshire. Its population, jointly with Blackcraig, is about 320. MINGALA, an island in the parish of Barra, Inverness-sliire. It lies nearly at the southern ex- tremity of the Outer Hebrides, 9 miles south-west of the island of Barra; and is separated from Pabba on the north-east by the sound of Mingala, which is 1| mile wide, from Bernera on the south-west by the sound of Bernera, wliich is 5 or 6 furlongs wide. Its extreme length is 2^ miles, from north-east to south-west; and its extreme breadth is If mile. Its south-west coast is remarkably bold and precipitous, rising almost sheer up from tlie sea in towering cliffs of gneiss. Innumerable flocks of puffins, razor-bills, penguins, and kittiwakes frequent these cliffs in summer; and they disappear early in au- tumn with their young. The highest ground on the island appears to be short of 1,000 feet above sea- level; and the general surface is pastoral, yet it con- tains some arable land, so as to be inhabitable by man. Population in 18G1, 139. Houses, 25. MINGARRY-CASTLE, an ancient fortalice on the south coast of Ardnamurchan, Argyleshire. It overhangs Loch-Sunart, looking across it southward along tlie Sound of Mull; and it confronts south- westward the body of Mull island, and " sternly placed, O'erawcs tlie woodland and tlic waste." Its distance due north from Tobermory is 7 milea. The foi talice, though strictly a ruin, is in a state of proximate integrity; and must be regarded as oneof tlie most interesting architectural antiquities of its class. It skirts the edges of a precipitous rock, about 24 feet high ; and is defended on the land side by a dry ditch. The entire stiuctuie is a hexagon of three larger and three smaller sides, which regu- larly alternate. Two of the sides toward the land are occupied with the castle, which has three stories, divided into six apartments, and approached by a central staircase; and the other sides are formed by a dead wall, and interiorly disposed partly into out- houses, and partly into "a small triangular court. Battlements surmount all the sides, but are so nar- row that they could have afforded small scope for the working of artillery. A few loopholes constitute the onlv external open'ings. The whole hexagon is upwards of 200 feet in circumference; and the en- closed castle is 50 feet in length. The fortalice was anciently the seat of the Maclans, a clan of Macdonalds, descended from Ian, or John, a grand- son of Angus Og, Lord of the Isles. During the Marquis of Montrose's enterprise of 1G44. Ailastcr Macdonald of Colkitto, tlie famous partisan of the Marquis, and commander of the Irish auxiliaries, besieged and captured it. John of Moidart, captain of Clanranald, was commissioned by the Marquis of Argyle to recapture it; but he seized the opportunity of being in arms, to send relief to the place, and to lay waste Arsiylc's district of Sunart. The name Mingarry mcaiis the destroyed den, or the reduced MINGINISH, a mission station of the royal l)ounty, also a post-oihcc station, in the parish of Bracadale. in flic island of Skye. MINN (The), an arm of the sea, projectmg from the head of Magnus' bav, and separating the island of Meikle Roe from the parish of Aithsting, m Shet- ' MINNICK-LOCH. See Kells. MINNICK (The), a rivulet of the parish of San- quhar in Upper Nithsdalc, Dumfriesshire. It rises on the west side <;f Lowther-liill, 1^ mile south from the village of Leadhills in Lanarkshire, and flows 6 miles westward to the Nith. 2 miles below MINNICK. 424 MINNIGAFF. the burgh of Sanquhar. Three brooks, each nearly equal to itself in bulk, give it the tribute of their waters. Some wildly romantic spots occur on its banks, interesting both in themselves, and in asso- ciation with traditions of the Covenanters. MINNICK, or Mixnock (The), a rivulet of Ayr- shire and Kirkcudbrightshire. It rises among the high mountains of the parish of Barr, and runs about 13 miles southward, through that parish, and the parish of Minnigaff, to the Cree. Its course, except near its termination, is through a dreary country. It is fed by numerous rills, particularly by the superfluence ot Lochs Trool, Round, Long, Falley, and Neldricken, in one accumulated stream. MINNIEHIVE, a post-office village in the parish of Glencairn, Dumfries-shire. It stands on Dal- what-water, a little above its confluence with the Castlefairn and the Craigdarroch, 7 miles south-west of Thornhill, and 16^ north-west of Dumfries. It received a charter, in the first half of the 17th cen- tury, erecting it into a burgh of barony, and con- ferring on it the privilege of a weekly market. It is the largest seat of population in the district of Nithsdale south-west of the Nith, and may be re- garded as the capital of that district. The villages of Dunreggan and Kirkland are in its vicinity, and may be viewed as suburbs. Fairs are held in it on the last Tuesday of March, on the 25th day of June, old st}'^le, or on the Tuesday after that day, on the Friday in August before Lockerby, and on the Saturday in September before Lockerby. The Au- gust and September fairs arc chiefly for lambs. The village has an office of the Union bank, two sub- scription libi-aries, and an United Presbyterian church. In the centre of it is a pillar 9 feet high, on a circular pedestal 5 feet high, bearing the date 1638, and seeming to have been erected as a market- cross; and in the vicinity is a monument to the memory of the Rev. James Renwick, the last of the Scottish martyrs in the cause of religious liberty. The village has, in recent years, undergone con- siderable improvement in the number and neatness of its houses. Population in 1S61, 817. MINNIGAFF, a parish in the extreme west of Kirkcudbrightshire. It is separated only by the river Cree from Newton-Stewart, which is its post- town; and it contains the villages of Minnigaff, Creebridge, Millcroft, Mines, and Blackcraig. It is bounded by the counties of Wigton and Ayr, and by the parishes of Carsphairn, Kells, Girthon, and Kirk- mabreck. Its length south-eastward is 17 miles; and its breadth, for the most part, varies from 8 to 12 miles. On the boundaries, and in the interior, are about 20 lakes and lochlets, most of them imbo- somed among wild hills, in districts either aban- doned to desolation or trodden only by the shepherd and his flock. The chief are Loch-Moan, on the north-west boundary, IJ mile long, deeply indented in outline, and studded with several islets; Loch- Enoch, 5 miles eastward on the same boundary, 2i miles in circumference, variously isleted within, and jagged all round with peninsulas ; Loch-Neldricken, 1§ mile south of Loch-Enoch, | of a mile long, and half-a-mile broad; Loch-Valley, half-a-mile farther south, nearly a mile long, and of slender breadth; Long-loch and Round-loch, the former a stripe | of a mile in length, the latter a circular sheet, half-a- mile in diameter, and both within a mile south of Loch- Valley ; Loch-Dee, a mile south-east of Round- loch, Ij mile long, and | of a mile broad, the re- puted source of the Galloway Dee; Loch-Trool, 2 miles east of Loch-Dee, stretching south-westward m a narrow stripe of 1§ mile long, and wearing at its lower end a gently picturesque dress ; Loch- Gi'annoch, on the eastern boundary, 6| miles south- east of Loch-Dee, 2J miles in length, but touching the parish for only 1 mile, and belonging chiefly tc Girthon ; and the Loch of Cree, a slender expansion of the river Cree, 2J miles in length, terminating 3^ miles above Newton-Stewart, beautifully wooded, and lovely in its banks. The river Cree, from its source iu Loch-Moan, till 1^ or 2 miles below the point of its beginning slowly to open into an estuary, has its whole course along the north-western, west- ern, and south-western boundaries. Not fewer than about 24 independent rills, besides 3 considerable streams, flow into it from Minnigaff, many of them of short course, nearly all brawling among bleak hills, but a few of them finely wooded. Minnick- water, coming down from Ayrshire, runs 7 miles southward, and If mile south-westward to the Cree, a little above the Loch of Cree. Penkill-water rises a mile south of Loch-Trool, and flows 4^ miles south- ward, and the same distance south-westward, to the Cree, immediately above Newton-Stewart. Pilnour- water rises 1 J mile west of the New-bridge of Dee, and runs 10 miles south-westward and southward, all in the interior except a mile above its mouth on the boundary with Kirkmabreck to the Cree, at the point where that river leaves the parish. The river Dee runs, from its sources in Dry-loch, Loch-Dun- geon, and Long-loch, to a little below the New- bridge of Dee, 10 miles along the eastern and south- eastern boundary. The surface of the parish, though not strictly al pine, is one of the most rudely highland in the south of Scotland. Excepting in a warm nook of about 6 square miles in the extreme south, and in some beautiful but narrow stripes along the principal streams in the west, it is everywhere rugged, very extensively heath-clad, and, for the most part, alto- gether and irreclaimably pastoral. Several summits have an altitude of about 1,600 or 1,700 feet above the level of the sea ; the summit of Meyrick has an altitude of 2,500 feet; and the summit of Cairns- muir, though not so high as that of Meyrick, is so situated as to look as high, and commands a very extensive and varied prospect. The heights in the interior have aggregately a grand effect ; and the hollows and vales amongst them contain some in- teresting close scenes. The interior heights, though seemingly inhospitable, are comparatively little snow-clad, and enjoy a mildness of climate denied to many Scottish- districts of much lower ground. A stripe of carse-land, of no great breadth, extends for several miles along the Cree; and both this and the low grounds adjacent to it have a richly cul- tivated character, and borrow beauty from the openings among the hills. Some of the higher ac- clivities are clothed all over with plantation ; many of the lower slopes form fine green pasture; and some of the valley grounds are finely adorned with mansions and parks. The vale of Pilnour- water, in particular, presents some charming wild scenes. The stream is sometimes obstructed with rocks, and impetuously breaks away from them; its banks are plentifully wooded ; its gambols are overlooked by the mansion and pleasure-grounds of Bargaly ; and its hill-screens rise and open and close in many diver- sified forms. The total extent of land in tillage is about 6,000 imperial acres; the extent constantly waste or in pasture is about 80,7G7; and the extent under wood is about 1,600. The principal land- owners are the Earl of Galloway, the Rev. M. Heron, M'Kie of Bargaly, Dunbar of Machermore, and Stewart of Cairnsmuir. The mansions are Kirouch- tree, Curaloden-cottage, Bargaly, Machermore, and Carnsmuir. The average rent of the arable land is about 16s. per acre; and that of the whole parish is about 2p. 7d. The value of assessc-d property in MINNIGAFF. 425 MTNTO. I860 was £12,097. The estimated value of raw produce iu 1842 was £24,382. Greywacke aud claj'slate are the predominant rocks; but granite occurs extensively in boulders, and is used for building. Veins of lead ore, varyiiig in thickness from 2 to 5 feet, occur on the estates of Machermore and Kirouchtree. Those of JIachermore were once a source of considerable wealth; they gave rise to a populous village, occupied solely by miners ; they were wrought with great earnestness; but at length the veins became greatly exhausted, and since 1839 they have been wroug'ht only to a verv trivial extent. A standing-stone and some cairns occur on a plain below Ivirouchtree-house, and are believed to be memorials of some ancient battle. The glen of Trool was the scene of a skirmish be- tween the troopers and the Covenanters on a winter Sabbath morning of 1685, The ruins of the castle of Garlies, a building of unknown antiquity, the an- cient seat of the Earls of Galloway, giving to them their title of Lord Garlies, are situated about 1 J mile from the village of MinnigafF. Three moat hills, seats of feudal jurisprudence, are situated respec- tively in the vicinity of MinnigafF village, in the vale of the Pilnour, and on a sequestered spot on Bardrachurd-moor. Various tumuli occur among the hills; and some of them have been opened, and found to contain human bones and pieces of weapons. There are in the parish two grain mills, a tan-work, and a small woollen manufactory. The Pilnour is navigable for a short distance; and there is a small quay at Pilnour-bridge, where vessels of 60 tons may load and discharge. The parish is traversed across its south-east end by the road from Dumfries to Portpatrick. The village of Minnigaft" stands on a low piece of ground, at the confluence of the Pen- kill and the Cree, sufficiently near Newton-Stewart to be a sort of suburb of that town. It is a place of some antiquity, and had weekly markets, and was occasionally the meeiing-place of the synod of Gal- loway, long before Newton-Stewart existed. But it is now a very poor place, containing little more than a dozen houses. Even the little village of Cree- bridge, situated about J of a mile below it, has eclipsed it. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,855; in 1861, 1,804. Houses, 364. This parish is in the presbytery of W'igton, and synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £269 3s. 9d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £48 7s. Schoolmaster's salary now is £45, with £23 fees, and £6 other emoluments. The parish church stands at the confluence of the Penkiil and the Cree, overlc^jking the village of ISIinnigaft", and IS a beautiful Gothic building, with an elegant tower. It was built in 1836, and contains 850 sit- tings. There is a chapel of ease at Bargrennan, built in 1839, and containing 207 sittings. There are a subscription school at Bargrennan, and a school, built chiefly by Lady H. Maxwell and Mrs. Stewart, in the mines district. Dr. Alexander Murray, the celebrated linguist, was a native of Minnigaff"; and General Sir William Stewart, one of the peninsular heroes, resided several years in it, and lies buried in its churchyard. The name Min- nigaff was written, in several monuments of the 13th and 14th centuries, Monygove; and alludes, in its Erse or Gaelic origin, to the stony moorland which prevails among the hills. The church was a free parsonage at the commencement of the 13th century, as ' the parson of Monygove ' then witnessed a charter of John, bishop of Galloway; but it was afterwards given to the monks of Tongueland, and it followed the fates of their property both before and after the Refonnation. There were anciently in the parish two chapels subordinate to the mothei-chiirch. MINNISHANT, a post-office station subordinate to Mavbole, Ayrshire. MINNOCK (The). See Minnick (The). MINNOME-BUKN, a brook, draining part ol the parish of Gamrie in Banffshire, and part of the parish of Xing Edward in Aberdeenshire, south- westward to the Deveron. MINNYHIVE. See Mismehive. MINSH (The). See Mi.nch (The). MINTLAW, a post-office village in the parish of Longside, Aberdeenshire. It stands on the west border of the parish, at the intersection of the road from Peterhead to Banff with the road from Aber- deen to Fraserburgh, 8^ miles west-north-west of Peterhead. It was founded during the first quarter of the present century, and had encouraging pros- pect of increase; but it soon became stationary. Here are a parochial school, and an endowed female school. Fairs are held on the Tuesday after the 25th of February, on the Tuesday after the 14th of April, on the Tuesday after the 14th of June, on the Tuesday after the 25th of August, on the Tuesday after the 7 th of October, and on the Tuesday after the 14th of December. Population, 240. MINTO, a parish, containing the villages of Minto and Hassendean, in Koxburghshire. Its post-town is Denholm, adjacent to its south-eastern border. It is bounded by Lilliesleaf, Ancrum, Bed- rule, Cavers, Wilton, and a detached part of Selkirk- shire. Its length eastward is 5^ miles ; and its greatest breadth is 3 miles. The river Teviot, flow- ing over numerous fords, along a pebbly bed, and between banks singularly varied and highly pictur- esque, runs, for 3f miles, generally along the south- ern and south-eastern boundary, but over this dis- tance intersects on the side of Minto some small portions of Cavers. Except for \ of a mile in the extreme west, where the land rises abruptly up in a bold, sylvan, beautiful bank, a belt of haugh-ground about 1 or 1 J furlong broad, lies along the margin of the stream. Flanking all the haugh except its east end, there is either a steep bank or a rapid swell; behind both of which the surface, excepting at two places where it is depressed into dells, and at two others where it towers aloft into hills, rises with a slow and almost regular gradient away to the northern boundary. The westerly dell is the romantic Hassexdeas : which see. The easterly dell combines the beauties of a noble demesne, the picturesque varieties of the lake, the cascade, and the purling stream, the o-ooded glen and the dark ravine, and is altogether a home of romance. Near its head a high weir thrown across it produces both a tine little sheet of water above, and a bold freakish waterfall below. A smooth green b:ink rises slowly up from the edge of the artificial lake, and bears aloft the elegant and noble pile of Minto-hou.se, which, while embowered in a profusion of wood, commands gorgeous vista-views athwart the vale of the Teviot. Below the fall the dell becomes less ornate, and subsides into its natural wildness, but continues till near the Teviot to bo delightfully fas- cinating. A furrowy depression in the ground, no- where deep enough to be even a mimic glen, brings down a pretty streandet at mid-distance between the dells, and discharges its watery freight across the haugh, directly opposite tiie bold beautiful bank which screens the village of Denholm from the Teviot. A mile west and north-west by west of Minto-house, rise the two hills of Minto, based on a considerably elevated table-land, and shooting up to an altitude of about 870 feet above sea-level. They are regularly ascending, green, broad-shouldered, elevations, and figure conspicuously from almost evcrv point of view in one of the richest landscapes ]\nNTO. 426 MINTO. of Teviotdale. Somewhat continuous with the hills, but after an intcr'.''~iiinq- dcpiTPFion, mns enstwnrd behind Minto-housc, a broad hilly ridge, becoming bold and towering as it approaches the Teviot; and when near that stream, it breaks almost sheer down in the romantic assemblage of cliffs called Minto crags. The cliffs are a vast mass of trap-rock; and they soar into different points, from various platforms in their ascent, and attain an elevation above sea- level of 721 feet. Along their base are strewn huge blocks, detached from the beetling precipices ; over their rugged ledgy face are scattered growths of herbage and ivy; and partly on their skirts, partly on their summits, are massive clumps of plantation. A ruin, of small size but considerable strength, called Fatlips castle, the remnant of an ancient border fort- alice, stands on their summit, and is supposed to have belonged to TurnbuU of Barnhills, a border freebooter of great note ; and a small platform, on a projection of the crags a little below the summit, commanding an unobstructed view of the surround- ing country, popularly bears the name of Barnhill's bed, and is supposed to have been used by the free- booter as a place of outlook. " The view from the crags is highly diversified and beautiful. The wind- ings of ' the silver Teviot,' through a pleasing vale, sometimes contracted, and again expanding, can be traced above and below for many a mile, the pros- pect on the one hand being terminated by the fine outline of the Liddcsdale hills, along with those on the confines of Dumfries-shire, and in the opposite dii-ection by the smoother and more rounded forms of the Cheviots. Rubberslaw, the highest hill in this vicinity, rises immediately in front, with Denholm- dean, celebrnted by Leyden, on the right, and the narrow bed of the Rule on the left ; while behind, to the north, are distinctly seen the Eildon hills, the Black-hill, Cowdenknowes, and more remotely Smailholm-tower, Hume-castle, and tlie low, dark skyline of the Lammermoors." >Sir Walter Scott, in the following lines, has finely associated the grandeur of this view with the antiquarian associations of vhe place : — " On Miiito-crasrs the moonbeams glint. Where BarnhiU hewed his bed of flint; Who flung his outlawed limbs to rest. Where falcons hang their giddy nest, 'Mid clifis from whence his eagle eye For many a league his prey could spy, Cliffs doubling on their echoes borne, The terrors of the robber's horn, — Cliffs which for many a later year. The warbling Doric reed shall hear, Wlien some sad swain sh.all teach the grove, Amliition is no cure for love." The landowners of the parish are the Duke of Buccleuch, the Earl of ]\Iinto, Scott of Teviotbank, and Dickson of Hassendean. Teviotbank-house, situated on the bank behind the haugh-groitnd, three furlongs east of Hassendean, is a modern mansion in the old English style, from an elegant design by Burn, and forms a marked and pleasing feature in the general landscape. The village of Minto, situ- ated midway on the swell toward the base of the hills, nearly three furlongs west of Minto-house, and about a mile north-north-west of Denholm, is a pleasant assemblage of about twenty neat cottages, commanding much of the Teviotdale part of the prospect seen from Miiito-crags. The parochial school here is a large, neat building; and the par- ish church, a few yards to the west, is a handsome Gothic edifice, with a quadrangular, pinnacled tower. The manse, half-a-mile to the south, on lower ground, washed by the central brook of the parish, is in the style of a Tuscan villa, and exhibits kindred taste to that which gently and joyously luxuriates over most of the objects and surface of this interesting district. About 800 acres of the parochial area are under plantation; about 1,500 acres are in pasture; and little more than 800 own the dominion of the plough. The soil toward the Teviot is a light loam; and far- ther north it is a strong clay lying upon till. The estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1838 was i^9,689. The real rental in the same year was about £3,220. The value of assessed property in 1864 was £4,GG7 13s. Tlie parish is traversed by the Hawick railway, and has a station on it at Hassendean. Population in 1831, 481; in 1861, 430. Houses, 82. This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and synod of INIerse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Earl o"f Minto. Stipend, £224 8s. 9d; glebe, £40. Un- appropriated teinds, £268 5s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £70, M-ith £25 fees, and £10 10s. other emoluments. The parish cliurch was built about 25 years ago, and contains 360 sittings. The present parish of Minto comprehends the ancient parish of Minto, which was a rectory, and part of the ancient parish of Hassendean. The original barony of ^linto, however, appears to have been more extensive than even the present parish of Minto, and of course much more extensive than the ante-Eeformation parish; for Robert Bruce granted to William Barbitonsoris two parts of the lands of ' Kirkborthwic,' and three parts of 'the miln thereof,' ' infra baroniam de Minthou ; ' and Kirk- borthwick is about 9 miles west-south-west from Minto. The noble family of Elliot, whose title of Earl is taken from the parish, and whose history has deeply entwined its name in the chaplets of modem renown, came into possession of the ascend- ant portion of its lands only at the recent period of the Union. "On the 30th of April, 1706, Sir Gil- bert Elliot obtained a grant of the baronj' of Minto, in Roxburghshire, with the patronage of the church, the tithes, and with the manse and glebe of Minto, and also a grant of the barony of Headshaw, with the patronage of the church of Ashkirk, and the tithes thereof." Sir Gilbert — a son of Gawin Elliot of Midlem mill, and a grandson of Gilbert Elliot of Stobbs, called " Gibbie wi' the gowden garters," and of Maigaret Scott of Harden, commonly called 'Maggy Fendy' — acted a stirring part in the wars of the Covenanters, under the last of the reigning Stuarts, and narrowly escaped destruction for his en- thusiastic attachment to the cause of Presby terianism and religious liberty ; he was one of the Scottish de- putation to the prince of Orange to adjust measures for giving him the British crown; he was appointed clerk to the privy council at the Revolution, was made a baronet in 1700, got a seat, in the CoUege- of-justice under the title of Lord Minto in 1705, and died in 1718, at the age of 67. Sir Gilbert Elliot, the second of the name, and the son of the first, was also a member of the College-of-justice, and became successively a Lord-of session, a Lord-of justiciary, and Lord-justice-clerk ; and, with the aid of one of his sisters, made a singular escape from an enraged party of Jacobites, during the last rebellion, by hid- ing himself among Minto-crags. The sister who, on this occasion, plaj'ed the heroine, was Miss Jane Elliot, the authoress of one of the three exquisite lyrics known in Scottish song under the common name of ' The Flowers of the Forest.' The third Sir Gilbert Elliot sat in parliament, first for Selkirkshire, and next for Roxburghshire, and became Treasurer of the navy; and he wrote the fine pastoral, " My sheep I've forsaken, and left my sheep-hook, And all the gay haunts of my youth I've forsook," inserted in the note on Minto-crags in the 'Lay of the Last Minstrel.' The fourth Sir Gilbert, figuring from the connnencement till nearly tlie close of the wars with France, filled the offices successively ol MIOBLE. 427 MOCimUM. Governor of Toulon, Viceroy of Corsica, Minister plenipotentiary at Vienna, President of the Board of control, and Governor-general of India; and was raised, in 1797, to the peerage under the title of Baron Minto, and, in 1812, received the additional dignities of Viscount Melgund and Earl of Minto. His son, the present Earl, succeeded to the family estates in 1814, married, in 1806, the daughter of Patrick Brydone, Esq., author of the well-known ' Tour in Sicily,' sat early in parliament, and rose to the offices successively of Minister-plenipotentiary to the court of Berlin, and First Lord of the Ad- miralty. MIOBLE (The), a brook of considerable volume, flowing into Loch-Morar, iu the parish of Ardna- murchan, Argyleshire. MIRACLE. See Martle MIRES-HILL. See Eaglesiiam. MIRRAN (The). See Fortingal. MISERY (Mount). See Kilmaronock. MISTY-LAW. See Lochwinsoch. MIULIE (Loch), a small lake near the head of Glenstrathfarrar, in the north-west extremity of In- verness-shire. An islet on its bosom was the retreat of Lord Lovat after the ruinous defeat at Culloden ; and the summit of an adjacent mountain was his post when helplessly surveying the conflagration of his mansion, and of the houses of his clansmen. MOAN (Loch). See Minxigaff. MOAR (Fall of). See Lyon (The). MOAT-BURN, a biook running north-en stward to the Tweed, in the parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles- shire. MOCHERMORE. See Minnigaff. MOCHRUM, a parish, containing the post-office village of Port-William, also the villages of Eldrig and Kirk of Mochrum, on the southern const of Wigtonshire. It lies along the upper part of the east side of Luce-bay, and is bounded elsewhere by the parishes of Old Luce, Kirkcowan, Kirkinner, and Glasserton. Its length south-south-eastward is 12 miles; and its greatest breadth is 5f miles. The extent of coast is 9i miles. For a mile from the north-west extremity, it forms a steep rocky hill overhanging the sea, altogether inaccessible by boats, but traversed along the brink by a road which was constructed by the filling up of deep caves an.i the removing of vast rocky blocks; and hence, to the south-east extremity, it is a stripe of flat smooth gravel beach 50 yards in mean breadth, flanked by a bold and precipitous bank, which, for the most part, forbids access from the sea, but, in several places, is cleft by creeks and tiny bays. Though there are several landing places for small bortts, the only harbour or accessible point for sail- ing craft is at Port- William. Numerous indepen- dent brooks run westward to the shore; but most of them rise within mid-breadth of the parish, and the longest has a course of only 4J miles to Port- William bay. White-loch, f of a mile long and 3 or 4 furlongs bioad, lies in the south-east corner, encinctured with wood, and ovei'looked by Monreith- house, the elegant and commodious seat of Sir Wil- liam Maxwell, Bart. On its banks, near the modern mansion, stands the old family castle of the Max- wells, amidst a clump of lofty trees; and in the vicinity are vantage-grounds whicli command an extensive view away to the mountains of Mournc in Ireland, the Isle of Man, and the hills of Cumber- land. Near the north-west end of the parish, amidst a wide tract of moorland, lies a cluster of six lakes. Two of them, Moclu-um-loch and Castle-loch, have each several islets, and measure upwards of IJ mile by half-a-mile; and these, witli the other four, whicli ore much smaller, send oft' their superfluent waters m one stream, forming I\Ialzie-water: which see At the north end of Mochrum-loch, and south of tht smaller lakes, stands an ancient tower or castle, called the Old Place of Mochrum, which, seen from a little distance, lias a curious appearance, looking, amidst the lakes, almost like a large ship at sea. The general surface of the parish is of the broken chnracter which prevails in W^igtonshire, neither level nor mountainous, its flat grounds very limited, and its liills of no great elevation. Large "tracts, at both ends of the parish, consist chiefly of rocky eminences and mossy swamps, bleak and barren in their general aspect, and thinly interspersed with small patches of good dry arable land. The soil, for several miles along Luce-bay, i&, for the most part, either a fine light or a strong deep loam, ex- ceedingly fertile; and, towards the centre of the parish, it gradually becomes thin and stony. Only about 200 acres are under plantation. Tlie value of assessed property in 18G0 was £12,250. The parisli lies midway between the towns of Wigton and Whithorn on tlie east, and the village of Glenluce on the west, and is traversed by the roads from botli the towns through Glenluce to Stranraer. The vil- lage of Kirk of Mochrum is a small place, with up- wards of 120 inhabitants, in the south-east district of the parish, on the road from Whithorn to Glenluce, 2 miles north of Port-William. Population of the parish in 18.31, 2,105; in 18C1, 2,C94. Houses, 462. This parish is in the presbytery of Wigton, and synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £160 Os. 4d.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated teinds, £2 6s. 4d. Sclioolmaster's salary, £50, witli £16 fees, and £4 other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1794, and enlarged in 1832, and con tains 700 sittings. There is an United Presbyterian church at Port- William. There are four non-paro- chial schools. Mochrum was anciently a vicarage of the canons of Whithorn. In 1606 the church was granted, along with other property which had belonged to the canons, to the bishop of Galloway; in 1641 it was transferred to the university of Glas- gow; in 1661 it was restored to the Bishop of Gal- loway; and, at the final abolition of Episcopacy, it reverted to the Crown. A chapel anciently stood near the old castle of Merton. Another chapel, dedicated to St. Finnan, and called Chapel-Finnan, or Chapel- Fingan, stood on the coast ur.der the cliif. Its ruins figure in an account of Galloway, written in 1684, yet are still extant. The lands of Mocln-um were given, in 1368, to Thomas Dunbar, second son of Patrick, Earl of INIarch. The Dunbars, who descended from him, took title from Mochrum, liad their seat at the old place of Mochrum, and figured somewhat distinguishedly as a far'ily. Cadets of the house founded the families of Dunbar of Clug- ston and Dunbar of Baldoon, the latter now repre- sented by the Earl of Selkirk. Gavin Dunbar, son of Sir John Dunbar of Mochrum, became prior o{ Whithoin about the year 1504. was afterwnrcls made preceptor to James Y., and became, in 1522, Arch- bishop of Glasgow, — in 152G, Lord-chancellor of Scotland, — and in 1536, one of the Lords of Regency during the King's visit to France. The family was raised to the baronetage in 1694, and is now repre- sented bv Sir William Dunbnr, Bart. The Max- wells of Monreith settled in the pnrish in the early part of the 17th century. John Maxwell, younger of Monreith, acted a distinguished and military part among the Covenanters, stood high in fame among their leaders, and made narrow csc.ipes from martyr- dom in their cause. Anotiier celebrated and re- cently deceased oft'shoot of the family was Sir Mur- ray Maxwell, commander of the Alceste in the Am- herst embassy to China, aide-de-camp to William IV., MOFFAT. 428 MOFFAT. and, at his death, tinder appointment to the gover- norship of Prince Edward's Island. MOCHEUM, Ayrshire. See Kirkoswald. MOFFAT, a parish paitly in Lanarkshire, hut chiefly in Dumfries-shire. The Dumfries-shire part projects northward from tlie adjacent regions of the county, forms the northern extremity of the district of Annandale, and contains the post-town of Moffat. The parish is bounded by Tweedsmuir, Megget, Ettrick, Eskdalemuir, Hutton, Wamphray, Kirk- patrick-Juxta, and Crawford. Its length eastward is about 15 miles; and its greatest breadth is 8j miles. For 24 miles along the west, north, and east, the boundary-line is formed by the highest summits or water-shedding line of the southern alps of Scot- land, which attain here their highest altitude, and send off hence their long broad spur across the counties of Peebles and Selkirk toward the Lammer- moors. Evan-water cuts a gorge in the north-west through this mountain-bai-rier; and coming down from Crawford, flows f of a mile on the boundary between that parish and Mofiat, and then rushes over a rocky and declivitous bed 3f miles south- ward through the interior to Kirkpatrick-Juxta, at Middlegill. ClofSn-burn rises in three head-streams in the extreme west, and runs 3 miles south-east- ward and eastward to the Evan, at the point of its entering Kirkpatrick-Juxta. Garpel-water rises in the south-west extremity, runs nearly 2 miles along the southern boundary, and then passes away to be- come afterwards tributary to the Evan. The river Annan rises in the extreme north, and runs 8^ miles almost due south, but over the last 5 miles is the boundary-line with Kirkpatrick-Juxta lying on its right biink; and while on this boundary, 1J mile before ceasing to touch Moffat, it receives at one point Evan-water on its right bank, and Moffat- water on its left. A number of small local inde- pendent streams join it in Moffat, all, except one, on its left bank ; the most considerable being Granton, Well, and Frenchland burns, respectively 3J, 4, and 3 miles long. Moffat -water rises in the extreme north-east, and runs lOi miles almost direct south- west to the Annan ; augmented in its progress by numerous mountain rills. Loch-Skexe [which see] supplies the earliest of these rills on the right bank, — that in the course of which occurs the celebrated waterfall called the Grev Make's Tail: which see. The courses of even the three chief streams, the Evan, the Annan, and the iloffat, are, for a long way, sheer gorges, overhung by steep and often almost inaccessible hills, admitting little more than space for excellent though hanging roads, and pos- sessing at their upper end, even on the beds of the streams, an altitude of about 1,000 feet above sea- level. That of the Evan nowhere in the parish ex- pands into a vale, Imt continues throughout a moun- tain pass; that of the Mofiat slowly opens into a belt of meadow and arable land; and that of the Annan, 3^ miles before the river leaves the parish, and just before it reaches the town, suddenly ex- pands into a beautiful valley of considerable breadth, the commencement of therich strath or ' Howe ' of Annandale, screened on three sides by towering up- lands, and blooming athwart the surface with lux- uriant vegetation. A singularly fine scene in the gorge or glen of one of the brooks is called the Bell- craig, supposed to be a corruption of Belled-craig, the provincial pronunciation of Bald-craig. About 3,800 acres of the whole area of the parish are in tillage; about 450 are under wood; and up- wards of 34,000 are waste or pastoral. The soil in the vallev ground is alluvium; on the lower de- clivities of the hills, it is a light dry gravel, in most places tolerably deep and fertile ; and on the higher grounds, it produces grass and heath, and rarely yields to the predominance of moss. The mountains on the boundary include Hartfell, which we have separately noticed, and about one-half of those men- tioned in the article Dlmfries-shire, as forming the northern screen of the count}'. The heights along Moftat-water vie in elevation with those along the boundary; so that one-half, or upwards, of the parish is occupied with the loftiest Scottish moun- tains south of the Forth and Clyde. Nearly all the heights are curved and regular in outline, broad in their summits, and clothed with vegetation on their surface. Saddleback, 1| mile south-east of Hartfell, is a curious exception, being so narrow at the top that a person may bestride it, and sit as on a saddle, and see two beautiful streamlets trickling away from its opposite bases. The eagle, anciently a multi- tudinous inhabitant of the Moffat alps, now I'arely meets the eye of an observer of the cloud-capped landscape. Nearly one-half of the parish belongs to Johnstone of Annandale, and the rest is distributed among ten or twelve principal landowners, besides a number of smaller ones. The estimated yearly value of the raw produce in 1834 was £16,105. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £13,251. The real rental in 1855 was £13,311. Vestiges still exist in this parish of the Eoman road which passed up Annandale, and is noticed in our article on Dumfries-shire. In its vicinity are traces of some large Eoman encampments. Three miles south- east of the town are vestiges of a British encamp- ment. Near the road from the town to Moffat-well, is a high conical mount, anciently surrounded with a deep ditch, and now enclosed and planted, and appearing a beautiful object from the road; and a few hundred yards west of it is another and smaller mount. A mile east of the Eoman road, in a deep sequestered glen, are two artificial excavations in freestone rock, capacious enough to accommodate a number of cattle. In various localities are ruins of peel-houses and old towers, built with sea-shell mortar. A curious locality, also, is noticed in our article on Erickstaxebrae. The wild wilderness along the upper part of Moffat-water is the scene of many a stirring tradition )-especting the gatherings and hidings of the persecuted Covenanters, and their narrow escapes from the bloodhound pursuit of Claverhouse and his dragoons. The gorge of the stream seems to have been regarded as a defensible pass; while deep seclusions among the toweling mountains behind were treated as places of ensconce ment and elusion from pertinacious pursuit. On an eminence, which commands the convergent ravines of Moffat-water and Loch-Skene burn, there are vestiges of a rude battery thrown up to defend the country toward the north-east; and another emi- nence on which parties were stationed to note to the congregations assembled in the ravines the ap proach of danger, is still called the Watch-hill. The parish is traversed by turnpikes leading northward respectively toward Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Sel- kirk, along the vales and gorges of the three principal streams ; and is traversed also, up Evan-water, by the Caledonian railway, but has access to that rail- way only at Beattock station, within Kirkpatrick- Juxta, 2 miles from the town of Moffat. Population of the Dumfries-shire part of the parish in 1861, 2,206. Hoitses, 438. Population of the entire par- ish in 1831. 2,221; in 1861, 2,232. Houses, 442. This parish is in the presbytery of Lochmaben, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, Johnstone of Annandale. Stipend, £279 10s. lOd.; glebe. £35. Unappropriated teinds, £222 16s. 8d. The parish church was built about the year 1790, and contains 1,000 sittings. There is a Free church, with ac MOFFAT. 429 MOFFAT. attendance of 530 ; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £346 8s. 4d. An United Presbyterian church, in lieu of a previous one, was built in 1862-3 ; is in the middle pointed style; and comprises nave, aisles, and a tower and spire. The parochial school and an old endowed school, were, in 1834, united under a master and an usher. The emoluments at present belonging to the parish school are £35, with fees. TLiere are a boarding-school and five other non-parochial schools. The ancient church of Moffat was one of the churches of Annandale trans- ferred, in 1174, by Robert de Bruce to the bishop of Glasgow; and it was afterwards constituted one of the prebends of the see. A chapel anciently stood between the Annan and the Evan at a place still called Chapel. Moffat has been called the Cheltenham of Scot- land, and is more distinguished for its medicinal waters than any place north of the Sai'k and the Tweed. The wells are three. Two of them, called the Hartfell-spa and the Garpel-well, are noticed in our articles Hartfell and Gaepel-water. The third, called distinctively and emphatically Jloffat- well, is a strong, sulphureous water, about 1^ mile north of the town, easily accessible thence by an excellent road, which is kept scrupulously neat and trim. The well is enclosed in a plain stone edifice, in a corner of a bi'oad green esplanade, commanding a lovely view of the pastoral valley and its hill- screens ; and near it are a neat cottage for its keeper, and a lank-looking building which was formerly used as a ball-room and for public breakfasts. The water oozes out of a rock of compact greywacke, containing interspersed pyrites. A bog in the vicinity probably co-operates with the pyrites in the greywacke to afford the sulphureous impregna- tion. The water has an odour resembling that of Harrowgate, but is not quite so strongly sulphure- ous. It has a somewhat saline taste; it sparkles in the glass like champaign; and it is so remarkably volatile that it can be drank in perfection only at the fountain. No closeness of cork can prevent some of its best qualities from forsaking it in bottles. Being used as a wash, and for warm bathing, it is now conveyed to the village in pipes; but to serve its purposes as an internal medicine, it needs still to be taken at the spa. The well is coated on the sides with a yellowish grey crust of sulphur ; and, when allowed to I'emain some days quiescent or un- pumped, it becomes covered with a yellowish white film of sulphur. Chemical analyses of the water have been made at various times since 1759; and according to one made by Mr. Macadam of Glasgow in 1853, an imperial gallon of it contains -ooB cubic inch of free sulphuretted hydrogen, a quantity of free and combined sulphur equal to that in 2'168 cubic inches of sulphuretted hydrogen, 1-51 grain of sulphuret of sodium, 60-72 grains of chloride o' sodium, 7-25 grains of chloride of magnesium, 10-02 grains of chloride of calcium, 3-46 grains of silicate of soda, 1-31 grain of carbonate of lime, "87 grain of carbonate of magnesia, 2-27 grains of organic matter, 1-45 grain of saline matter lost in the an- alysis, and traces of free silicic acid. The well was discovered, or came into notice as a spa, upwards of two centuries ago, and has ever since attracted in- valids from all parts of the kingdom. Its water is pronounced a powerful remedy in all scrophulons and scorbutic cases, in affections of the lungs, in gravel, in rheumatism, and in dyspepsy, biliousness, and other complaints of the stomach and bowels ; it is very light, and powerfully diuretic; and it figures in common fame as the means of achieving "most v7onderful cures." I'he Town of Moffat stands on the left bank of the Annan, If mile above the influx of the Moffat and the Evan, and 2 miles north-north-east of the Beattock station of the Caledonian railwav. Its distance by road is 14 miles from Elvanfoot. 16 from Lockerby, 21 from Dumiries, 50 from Edinburgh, and 54 from Glasgow; but, by railway through Beattock, it is 15 from Elvanfoot, 15.| from Lock- erby, 55J from Dumiries, 62^ from Edinburgh, and 67^ from Glasgow. Its site is a rising-ground or slight acclivity, with a southerly aspect, having an elevation of 370 feet above the level of the sea. Around it lies a beautiful prospect of the upper vale of the Annan, richly luxuriant in its fields and hedge- rows, finely chequered and spotted vrith wood, gaily embellished with water, villa, mansion, and park, and picturesquely screened with gentle green ac- clivities, overlooked on tlie back-ground by alpine summits. Sheltering plantations climb the finely curved outlines of the Gallow-hill immediately on the north, stretch away in a little sheet of forest on the west and the south, and give all the environs both a warm and an adorned appearance. The spire of the church appears, when viewed in some directions, to rise elegantly from the midst of an extensive grove. Nor does the town stand well with regard merely to its immediate neighbourhood, but, being situated at the head of the luscious valley which stretches away in an expanding stripe 25 miles to the Solway frith, at the entrance of three grand inlets to the deepest wildernesses and most tremendous chasms of the southern Highlands, and only 4J miles south of Erickstane-brae-head, whence issue streams that run from the highest ground in the south of Scotland, east, west, and south to the Atlantic, the German, and the Irish seas, it com- mands from its own site, and from vantaL^e-grounds in its vicinity, many most picturesque blendings and groupings of Highland and Lowland scenery, and probably yields to no watering-place in the world for mingled grandeur and beauty of position. In itself, too, it is a pretty, tidy, smiling town, with modest and vet dressy attractions to the gay lounger and the fashionable" invalid. Its principal street stretches north and south down the slow declination of the rising ground; is spacious, handsonielv edi- ficed, exceedingly smooth and clean, dry within an hour after the heaviest rains, and altogether so dis- posed as to form a most agreeable promenade for both inhabitants and strangers; and was, some years ago, so much widened in its central parts as to form there a Tlace or large oblong square. In the middle of the street is a cistern for public use, affording a copious supply of the purest spring- water, fetched in leaden pipes beneath the bed ot the Annan, from the parish of Kirkpatr', k-Juxta. An elegant set of baths was erected in 1827 on a supe- rior plan, with a large apartment to serve as both a public rendincr-room and an assembly-room. The front of this edifice is adorned with a Doric portico; and it adjoins the principal inn, the Annandale Arms. Thore is likewise a lar-e private hotel. Connected with the baths are a billiard-room and a bowliuf^-^reen,— the latter enveloped in a shrubbery. The meaf-house and market-house are commodious buildino-s. Most of the private houses are new or recent nearlvall the town having been eitlicr formed or rebuilt within the last fifty years; and a large proportion of the houses arc fitted up as private lodcTincTs for the use of visitors. The common bmld- ino-"material is a bluish coloured greywacke. which is faced in the masonrv with white sandstone ; and this -^ives the houses a pleasant appearance, whicli is farther aided, in many cases, by climbing rose- bushes or trellised plants. The town lias a large public library, a trades' reading-room and library, MOFFAT. 430 MONADHT.EADH. and offices of the Union Bank, the Bank of Scot- land, and the British Linen Company's Bank. The shops are generally of a superior kind, afford- ing a ready supply both of ordinary wants, and of many luxuries. A regular market is held once a-week; and fairs are held oh the third Friday of March, old style, on the 29th day of July, and on the 20th of October, or the Tuesday after. An om- nibus, in communication with the railway trains, runs regularly between the town and Beattock. Justice of peace courts and sheriff small debt courts are regularly held in Moffiit ; and the public peace of the town is well preserved. The population, ac- cording to the census, in 1841 was 1,418, and in 1861, was 1.462; but these figures do not show what the population was in the summer months. The clirante of IMoffat is so mild and healthy as to attract invalids and occasional residents whose cases do not require any use of the spas. Showers ap- proaching it from any point over three-fourths of thecorapass, and threatening to discharge themselves on the vale, are very frequently drawn down to ex- haustion by the vast mountain-screen in the vicinity. The lands which environ the town are so gravelly and irretentive that moisture, when it f:xlls, very speedily disappears, and gives no aid either to mo- rassy stagnation in the fields, or to a bemiring of the public roads. " Typhus," says the reverend statist in the New Account, "has often prevailed in Glas- gow, Edinburgh, Carlisle, and other cities when there was no such distemper in Moffat. Providence averted even the cholera, though severe in Glasgow, and especially in Dumfries, with which there was daily intercourse, only two or three dor^btful cases having occurred, and among strangers affected before they reached Moffat. If the climate be the cause of any local distempers, the writer has never heard of it, nor the medical friends he has consulted on the point." All the public thoroughfares leading from the town are safe, easy, and pleasant; bridges on the roads are good; public promenades and strolling- grounds have a trimmed and inviting aspect; and nuisances of every description are prevented. All the antiquities, curiosities, and remarkable scenes noticed in our account of the parish, and in the ar- ticles Hartfell, GnET Make's Tail, and Loch- Skexe, are accessible to parties in quest of recrea- tion, and form a pleasing variety of resource for the rambler and the man of taste. A thousand localities easily reached will richly gratify the botanist, the mineralogist, and the general student of natural history. Craigieburnwood, and the moat on Coats- hill, opposite Earl Randolph's tower, offer fine re- treats for picnic parties. Queensberryhill, whose summit commands a clear view of a vast and very gorgeous panorama, is accessible to the lover of land- scape who begins to get strength at the wells. Even the glowing lakes, and ' dowy dens,' and verdant braes of Yarrow, with the tower of Dryhope, the birth-place of Mary Scott, are not altogether bej'ond reach. ]\Ioffat is historically associated with only one event of note. In the year 1333, while Scotland lay bleeding and ignominiously enthralled at the feet of usurpation. Sir Archibald Douglas, at the head of 1,000 horsemen, marched down by night upon the town, surprised and defeated the forces .'f Edward Baliol, slew or captured various distin- guished English officers and near relatives of the vassal-king of Scotland, and obliged the mocker and usurper of^ royalty to run a race of dispersion and flight to the Solway. Among eminent persons con- nected in any way with Moffat, were Bishop Whiteford of Brechin, who was a landed proprietor in the parish in the reign of Charles I., and whose daughter, the wife of James Johnstone of Corehead, is said to have b'eii the discoverer of the medicinal properties of Moffat-well, — Dr. Moffat, an eccentric but talented native, an object of some personal notice by Crom- well, and the author of a Treatise on Dietetics, — the good James Earl of Hopetoun, whose family inherited the Johnstone property in the parish, and who himself occasionally resided at Moffat-house, — • the Rev. Dr. Walker, translated from the pastorate of the parish to the Natural History chair of Edin- burgh, — Mr. Macadam, the famous roadmaker, who died at the town in 1836. in the 81st year of his age. — and Dr. David Welsh, the Professor of Ec- clesiastical History in Edinburgh, who was a native of the pai-isb. MOFFAT WATER. See Moffat. MOIDART. See Motdart. MOIN (The), a mountainously moorish tract of country, on the north coast of Sutherlandshire. It lies partly in the parish of Durness, and partly in that of Tongue; extends due southward from the coast at Whitenhead; and measures about 12 miles by 4i. Its elevation, a very brief way from the shore, is upwards of 1,300 feet; and, though varie- gated by several ranges of bold rugged heights, it continues somewhat uniform, and bears aloft a broad expanse of bog, till, at the southern extremity, it shoots grandly up in the alpine height of Bex-Hope: which see. The passage of this wild tract, lying directly in the way between Tongue and Eriboll, or between east and west of the extreme north of the continent, was formerly the laborious work of an entire day; but, in consequence of the construction of the new line of road, at tlie late Duke of Suther- land's expense, along the coast, it is now the easy and comfortable task of a single hour. MOLL, an ancient parish, now comprehended i«i Morebattle, on the eastern border of Roxburghshire. It comprises the upper part of the basin of Bowmont- water, adjacent to the English border, 12 miles south-south-east of Kelso. The church and village of Moll stood upon the Bowmont; and there is even now, on the banks of that mountain-stream, a hamlet, commonly known by the corrupted name of Mow- haugh; and a little lower may be seen the ruins of Mow-kirk. IMOLLENBURN. a village in the parish of Cad- der, Lanarkshire. It stands at the south-east ex- tremity of the parish, on the road from Glasgow to Stirling. It is advantageously situated for wood, water, and building material, and might easily ad- mit of improvement and extension. It has a good school. Population, 202. MOLLINDINAR BURN. See Glasgow. MOLLMONT. See Galston. MON-, a prefix in numerous Celtic names of places in Scotland. It is an abbreviation of monah, which signifies ' a moor ' or ' an upland moss.' But, in some instances, the particular moor which it originally designated has been either reclaimed or greatly modified b}' modem cultivation; as in the instance of Monifieth, signifying ' the moor of the stag,' — and in the instance of Monikie, signifying ' the moor of mist.' The proper form of the prefix, in some names, though originally written Mon, has been changed by usage into Min or Minni or Men; as in the case of Minnigaff, originally written Mony- goff, and signifying ' the black moor,' — and in the case of Menmuir, originally written Monmore, and signifying: ' the great moor.' MONADHLEADH MOUNTAINS, a range of lofty and rugged heights, extending from south- west to nortli-east, in a line parallel to the Glen- more-nan-Albin, and occupying the central districta of the southern division of Inverness-shire. Tboy MONAR. 431 MONIFIETH. rest on a high base or tahle-laiid of rhuary heathy moor; and are comparatively flowing in their out- lines, iiubrolien in their declivities, and free from abruptness or jaggedness of aspect. They embosom extensive glens where great herds of black cattle feed, and send down slopes where large flocks of sheep are pastured; yet they contain irksome soli- tudes, vast and dreaiy wastes, wbicli are abandoned to the grouse and the ptarmigan, the roe and the red deer. In their upper or south-west district they contain the sources of the chief bead-streams of the Spey, the Dulnain, the Findhorn, and the Nairn; and, in their lower district, they chieflj' divide Strath- dearn, or the vale of the Findhorn, on the north- west, from the upper vale of the Spey on the south- east. The mountains consist principally of granite and quartz rock. MONAEBURGH. See Kilsyth. MONAHOUDIE. See Knockaxdo. MONALTRIE. See Bkaemar and Glexmc:ck. MONANCE (St.). See Abekcrombie. MONAR (Loch), an alpine lake at the head of Glen-Strathfarrar, on the mutual border of Inver- ness-shire and Ross-shire. It is about 7 miles long, and occupies a wild hollow a little to the north of the mountain Scour-nalapich, which is nearly as high as Ben-Nevis, and soars aloft in a beautiful peak. The shores of the lake are savage, yet pic- turesque; and at the east end, where the lake con- tracts to a narrow, winding strait, there are rem- nants of an ancient pine forest. At the foot of the lake stands Monar-house; and there the carriage- road up Glen-Strathfarrar terminates. MONBODDO. See Fordoun. MONCRIEFF, or Mordun, a hill in the parish of Perth, immediately north of the Bridge-of-Earn, and 2| miles south of the city of Perth. It forms the connecting link between the Ochil and the Sidlaw ranges, except as these are cloven asunder by the Earn and the Tay ; and it has an altitude above sea- level of 756 feet. It consists chiefly of compact trap or greenstone, displaying on the south side a columnar formation; but contains, near its western extremity, some patches of conglomerate. A con- siderable part of it is under cultivation, and its heights are richly wooded, but have here and there bold protrusions of rock. The road from Bridge-of- Earn to Perth passes over its west shoulder, at the height of 182 feet. The summit of the hill, or even the'highest part of the road upon its shoulder, com- mands one of the most gorgeous prospects in Scot- land, comprising Strathearn, the Carse of Gowrie, Bome grand sweeps of the Tay, the hill of Kinnoul, the city of Perth, a profusion of mansions, woods, and parks, and, away in the far distance, the fron- tier ranges of the Grampians. A stranger, ascend- ing the hill from the south, sees none or very little of this prospect till he approaches the summit, when the -whole of it bursts at once upon his view, so that the eff'ect of its own surpassing brilliance is con- siderably heightened by the suddenness of its reve- lation. The invading legions of the Roman army, on reaching this spot, were so enraptured with the sight, supposing it to resemble the then gorgeous environs of Rome, that they exclaimed, — " Ecce Tiber, ecce Campus Martins,""—" Behold the Tiber, behold the Field of Mars!" Here also Queen Vic- toria, when on her fiist progress to the Highlands, made a pause to look round on the splendid panor- ama, and appeared to be highly charmed with the Bcene. MONCUR. See Inchture. MONEDIE, a parish in the Glenalmond district of Perthshire. Its post-town is Perth, 4 miles to the south- south-east. It is bounded by Auchter- gaven, Redgorton, Methven, and Logicalmond. Its length and breadth are each about 2 miles. Its surface is but slightly diversified, comprising no hills, but only rising grounds, which run northward and southward from the banks of the Shochie. On the low flat parts, the soil is partly a light loam, and paitly of a gravelly character, superincumbent in both cases on dr}', hard, deep gravel; on the parts of the rising-grounds adjacent to the river, it is a rich loam, on a strong deep clay; and in the parts of the rising-grounds more distant from the river, it is a cold wet till, naturally of moorish char- acter, covered with dwarf heath. About 2,718 im- perial acres are in tillage; about 771 are in pasture; and probably 400 are under wood. The landowners are the Duke of Athole and the Earl of Mansfield. The average rent of the arable land is about £1 lOs. per acre. Tlie value of assessed property in 1860 was £4,330 16s. The eastern extremity of the parish is adjacent to the Luncarty station of the Scottish Midland railway; and the interior is traversed by a road leading up to Logiealmond and Glensliee. Population in 1831, 300; in 1861, 252. Houses, 54. This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and svnod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Earl of Mansfield. Stipend, £215 19s. lid.; glebe, £14. Schoolmaster's salary now is £45, with about £10 fees, and £5 IGs. other emoluments. The parish church was built about the year 1817, and contains 460 sittings. The parish was, previous to the Re- formation, a free parsonage and a prebend of Uun- keld. Alexander Myln, the prebendary of it, to- ward the close of the 15th century, wrote a work, entitled ' Lives of the Bishops of Dunkeld,' which has recently been reprinted in the Transactions of the Literary and Antiquarian Society of Perth. The parish, after the Reformation and till about 1760, belonged to the presbytery of Dunkeld. MONESS-BURN, a brook, about 7 miles in length of course, flowing north-eastward, along the bound- ary between the parishes of Dull and Logierait. ani through the village of Aberfeldy, to the river Tay, in Perthshire. It is famous for three cascades, and for the wooded ravine in which these occur, which were celebrated by the muse of Bums, and char- acterized by Penn.ant as an " epitome of everything that can be admired in waterfalls." The lowest and finest of the falls is about a mile from Aber- feldv, and the uppermost about U niile. The dell appears to be from 200 to 300 feet deep, and is so very narrow that the trees on its opposite sides al- most meet each other's branches; and romantic walks have been formed through it, and seats erected, for the use and convenience of visitor.*. The ap- proach to the falls is from Aberf. ', iy, and should alwavs be made under the direction of a guide. " The burn of Moness," savs a tasteful observer, " is bounded bv high impending rocks, from whose chasms and crevices, fine trees and matted under- wood seem to start, deepening the gloom below; while a narrow and dangerous path at their base leads you. with the efl'ect of gradual initiatory pre- paration, to the cascades themselves. These form a retiring succession of brilliant gushing torrents, o-radually veiled, as thev recede from tlie eye, Ijy the thin leafy screen of the over-arching woods which render "it one of the completest speeinuns of the secluded waterfall that 1 have ever seen." MONFODE-BURN. See Ardrossax. MONGARRY, a hamlet near the river Don. m the parish of Tullynessle, Aberdeenshire. Adjacent to it is the site of'General Baillie's encampm.'ut on the ni"-bt previous to the battle of Alford m 164o. M05sIAlVE. See MiNSiF.fiivE. MONIFIETII, a parish, containing the villages MONIFIETH. 432 MONIKIE. of Drumstardymoor and Barnhill, the post-office village of Monifieth, and the greater part of the post-towu of Brouglity-Ferry, on the southern bor- der of Forfarshire. It is bounded by the frith of Tay, and by the parishes of Dundee, Murroes, Monikie, and Barry. Its length southward is 5 miles; and its breadth varies from 3i miles to li mile. Dighty-water, coming in from Dundee, runs 2i miles westward, and hali-a-mile southward to the frith at Milton, making several fine descents for yielding water-power to machinery. Murroes-burn traces the western boundary for a mile, and joins the Dighty at tlie place where that stream enters the parish. Buddon-burn comes down upon the ex- treme north, traces for 1^ mile the western boundar}', runs If mile south-eastward across the interior, and afterwards, just before falling into the frith, runs 3 furlongs along the eastern boundary. The coast is low and sandy, — with a considerable extent of light downs, of the kind called links; and the sea is, year by year, making inroads upon it, owing to the double effect of the winds blowing away the sand and rais- ing the tide. Behind the links, east of the Dighty, extends for a mile an almost level plain, the soil of which is at first light and sandy, but extremely fertile, and afterwards becomes a rich black loam. Behind the links, west of the mouth of the Dighty, the ground forms an elongated swell or low ridge, bold on the south, and gently sloping on the north, running westward between that stream and the frith. The rest of the parish has in general a southern ex- posure, and is diversified with gentle swells, and with the species of hills called laws. The soil is in gen- eral an excellent black loam, but deteriorates in quality toward the north, and eventually becomes, over a small tract, tilly and moorish. The highest ground is Drumsturdy-moor-law, 2J miles from the shore, and supposed to rise 530 feet above sea-level. The hill is of a beautiful oval form, green over all its sides and summit, a very fine feature in the land- scape, and measuring 133 yards by 66 on the super- ficies of its top. A charming view is obtained from it of Forfarshire to Arbroath, — the German ocean till lost in the horizon, — the frith of Tay, the bay of St. Andi'ews, the rich expanse of Fife, and the hills of LotJiian, — the level and pleasant tract west- ward along the Ta}"^, the tower and crowded harbour and picturesque landscape of ' Bonny Dundee,' part of the Carse of Gowrie, and the fine long hill-screen of the far-ranging Sidlaws. Around the summit of the hill are the broad foundations of an ancient for- tress, with several large vitrified masses of sand- stone and whinstone firmly compacted by fusion. A little south-west of this hill is the Gallow-hill of Ethiebeaton, said to have been the scene of sum- mary feudal justice under the barons, who owned the grounds of Ethiebeaton, Laws, and Oi'nochie. About 4, ,574 imperial acres in the parish are under cultivation; about 926 are in pasture, chiefly links; and about 554 are under plantation. Tlie principal landowners are Lord Panmure, Sir J. Ramsay, Bart., and Mr. Erskine of Linlathen ; and there are nine others. The estimated value of raw produce in 1842 was £34,440. Tlie value of assessed pro- perty in 1865 was £29,245 3s. 6d. The real rental in 1855 was £18,315. Grange-house, the ancient seat of the Durhams, now of Largo, occupied a pleasant site half-a-mile from the shore, and was famous for an escape of Erskine of Dun in the times of the Refor- mation, and for a nearly successful attempt at escape by the Marquis of Montrose when in onstody on his way from Assynt to Edinburgh; but 'the old man- sion was recently replaced by a comfortable new one. Linlathen-house is a large mansion on the banks of the Dighty; and Laws-bouse is a recently constructed edifice, in a florid style of architecture, on a very commanding site, near the vitrification on Drumsturdy-moor-law. At the mouth of the Dighty is a large spinning mill, driven partly by steam; half a mile up that rivulet is an extensive bleaching work; in Broughty-Ferry is a variety of manufac- tories; and in the village of Monifieth are a foundry and machine work, and a cart and plough manu- factory. A considerable number of the parishioners are employed in various ways, but principally in weaving, for the manufacturers of Dundee. The parish is traversed by the road from Dundee to Ar- broath, and by tlie Dundee and Arbroath railway; and it has stations on the latter at Broughty-Ferry and Moriifieth, and enjoys also all the advantages of the water-communications at Broughty-Ferry. The village of Monifieth stands in tlie south-east corner of the parish, 3 miles north-east of Broughty-Ferry, and 7 east by north of Dundee. It stands on the face of a rising-ground, J a-mile from the nearest part of the frith, and has a thriving appearance. A half j'early fair for cattle and horses used to be held in it, but has fallen away. The parish church, in its vicinity, is a plain but conspicuous building, erected in 1813; and in the burying-ground are some beau- tifully carved antique tomb-stones, more tasteful and ornate than usually occur in a rural cemetery. Population of the village, 308. Houses, 68. Popu- lation of the parish in 1831, 2,635; in 1861, 5,052. Houses, 903. This parish is in the presbytery of Dundee, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, Lord Pan- mure. Stipend, £264 12s. Sd.; glebe, £12 10s. Un- appropriated teinds, £393 Is. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £52 10s., with £35 fees, and some other emoluments. The parish church contains 1,100 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Broughty- Ferry, built in 1826, containing 720 sittings, and under the patronage of the male communicants. There is a Free church at Monifieth, with an at- tendance of 400; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £154 15s. 5d. Tliere are two Free churches at Broughty-Ferry; receipts in 1865 were. East, £2,029 12s. Id.; West, £619 Os. 4d. Tliere are likewise in Broughty-Ferry an United Presbyterian church and an Episcopalian chapel. There are 7 non-parochial schools, — several of them supported by endowment or extrinsic aid; and there are two parochial libraries, besides some other insti- tutions. The ancient parish of Monifieth was a free parsonage, in the diocese of St. Andrews ; and it had before" the Reformation four chapels; one at Broughty-Ferry, where there is still a burying- ground,— one on the banks of the Dighty at Bal- mossie-mill, the foundation-stones of which were dug up near the end of last century, — one on that spot in the land of Ethiebeaton wliich is still called Chapel-Dokie,— and one at the village of Monifieth. Dr. David Doig, rector of the grammar school of Stirling and a writer in the Encyclopsedia Britan- nica, was a native of Monifieth. MONIKIE, a parish, containing the villages of Craigton, Newbigging, Guildie, Bankhead, _ and Camustown, in tlie south of the maritime district of Forfarsliire. Its post-town is Dundee, 9 miles to the south-west. It is bounded by Murroes, Inver- arity, Guthrie, Carmylie. Panbride, Barry, and Monifieth. Its length southward is 7 miles; and its greatest breadth is 5 miles. Tiie surface is diver- sified by several hills. A small tract in the ex- treme south corner consists of sandy downs. The land for 2f miles, thence northward, is distinguished for fertility, has a southern exposure, and presents a warm and wealthy appearance. A laige elongated hill or hilly ridge, called Downie, now. interposes MONIKIE. 433 MONIMAIL. from east to west, and sectious-ofF a colder climate and an inferior soil lying to the north. The district behind it, comprising about two-thirds of the whole area, is at first comparatively cold and moist, yet not unproductive, and eventually becomes an ex- tensive tract of moorland, with an elevation of about 400 feet above sea-level, — now partially reclaimed and under tillage, but chiefly covered with heath and coarse grass, and occupied as pasture ground. A deep winding ravine, traversed by a streamlet, and called Denfiend or the Fiend's den, bisects the central hilly ridge, and, at a place where its sides are precipitous, is spanned by a single arch of a strong massive bridge. On Downie-hill, surmount- ing a summit which commands a view of large por- tions of seven counties, stands the ' Live and let live testimonial,' an erection raised, in 1839, by the tenantry of the late Lord Panmure, "to perpetuate the memory of a nobleman who, through a long life, made the interests and comforts of his tenantry his sole and unwearied object." The testimonial is situ- ated 1 mile north of the Dundee and Arbroath road, 2 miles south-west of Panmure-house, and 5J miles north-west of Buddonness, and is now one of the most conspicuous landmarks, over a great expanse of ocean and estuary, on the east coast of Scotland. It was constructed from a design by John Hender- son, Esq., of Edinburgh. It rises to the height of 105 feet from the ground ; and consists of a broad lower basement of rustic-work, containing one or two small rooms, — a quadrangular upper basement, the angles of which are flanked with heavy open buttresses, — and a colossal cylindrical column rising up into a balustrade, and surmounted by an ornamental vase. A stone-pillar stands in the centre of the cylinder, and can-ies up to the top a lightning-conductor in its interior, and a spiral stair on its exterior. Both this object, and exten- sive works for supplying the town of Dundee with water, and situated about f of a mile from the par- ish church, are attractive to visitors. Downie-hill consists chiefly of a fine trap, well-suited for both building and road-makiiig, and containing beautiful specimens of agate, jasper, and spar; but at its west end is a quarry of excellent sandstone, which supplies an extensive district to the south. About 4,448 acres in the parish are under regular cultiva- tion ; and about 500 are under wood. The land- owners are Lord Panmure, Lord Douglas, FyfF of Smithfield, Mitchell of Aflleck, and Kerr of New- bigging. The real rental in 1865 was £10,901 . New- bigging-house is the principal mansion. Afileck- castle IS a fine specimen of the old feudal fortalice; and though now for a long time uninhabited, yet is seemingly almost ei>tire. Hynd-castle is now but the vestige of another old "keep, of smaller size, crowning an artificial mound, which must, at one time, have been surrounded by water and a morass. A tumulus called the Hair-cairn or Heir-cairn on the western border of the p.arish, is the only one left of several cairns which appear to have been raised there as monuments of some ancient battle. An ornamental stone pillar in the form of a cross, at Camustown, is believed to mark the spot where Camus, the Danish general, was slain and buried after the defeat of his army by Malcolm IT. at Barry. The southern part of theparish is traversed by tlie road from Dundee to Arbroath, and by the Dundee and Arbroath railway ; and has near access to the Monifieth and Barry stations of the railway. Popu- lation of the parish in 1831, 1,322; in LSei, 1,460. Houses, 288. This parish is in the presbytery of Dundee, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £280 lis. 4d.; glebe, £12. Unappropriated II. teinds, £144 Is. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with about £22 fees, and £5 other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1812, and contains 921 sittings. There is a Free church at Monikie, with an attendance of about 100; »ni the amount of its receipts in 18G5 was £190 19s )ld. _ There is an United Presbyterian church at Kewbigging, in the south-west comer of the piirisli. There are four non-parochial schools. MONIMAIL, a parish, contamiug the post-office village of Letham, and the villages of Monimail and Easter Fernie, in the Cupar district of Fifeshire. It is bounded by Criech, Moonzie, Cupar, Cults, Col- lessie, Abdie, and Dunbog. Its length south-south- eastward is 6 miles; and its greatest breadth is 5 miles. The northern part of it consists of a fine range of hills, the highest of which is called Mount- hill; and the southern part, though diversified by soft and gentle undulations, is comparatively level, being a portion of the north side of the Howe of Fife. The prevailing rock in the northeni district is ti-ap, generally of a kind unfit for building; and the rocks of the southern district comprise some sandstone, and belong to the coal formation. The soil in the north is partly a mixture of decomposed trap and vegetable mould, and partly a clayey loam less fertile than the fonner; and that in the south is generally a light thin alluvium, superincumbent on gravel. About 3,000 acres in the parish are in tillage ; about 2,000 are in pasture and parks ; and about 500 are under wood. The landowners are the Earl of Leven, Hope of Rankeilour, Balfour of Fer- nie, Paterson of Cunoquhie, and Crichton of Nether- Rankeilour. The value of raw produce was esti- mated in 1836 at £21,100. Assessed property in 1865, £11,480, 18s. A number of the parishioners are employed in linen-weaving. The parish has near access to stations on both forks of the Edin- burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. Population ic 18.31, 1,230; in 1861, 1,054. Houses, 238. The castle or mansion of Fernie, one of the inter- esting artificial objects in the parish, has been se- parately noticed in our article Fernie. The present mansion of Balgarvie, at the eastern extremity of the parish, is a modem edifice, plain and commo- dious ; but was preceded by one which belonged to a branch of the family of Balfour, from whom were descended the Lords Balfour of Burieigh. " It is said," says Sir Robert Sibbald, " tiiat there was here a strong" castle, which was taken and levelled by Sir John Pettsworth as he was marching with the Endish forces to the siege of the castle of Cupar m the^ reign of King Robert I." Of this castle, if there ever was one here, not a vestige now remains. Over or Upper Rankeilour is a vcr; elegant house, built by General John Hope, fourth Eari of Hope- toun ; and the grounds around it are magnificently wooded. Upper Rankeilour originally formed a por- tion of the property of the family of Rankeilour of that ilk; but at an early period it became tiie pro- perty of a branch of the" Sibbalds of Balgony, with whom it remained rill the reignof Charles 11., when it became the property of Sir Archibald Hope, grnndson of the famed Sir Thomas Hope of Craig- hall. A monumental pillar, to the memory of the late Earl of Hopetoun. stands on the summit of ]\Iounthill. It is a plain Doric column 92 feet in height, surmounted bv a square capitnl of lo feet. It is hollow within, and has a narrow spiral stair- case bv which tlicre is an ascent to the top, whence a fine View o^tlle vale of Stratheden, and the fntlis of Forth and Tay, is obtained. North of Rankeilour is the Mount, now the property of Mr. Hope, but once the residence of Sir David Lindsay, Lord Lvon- Kine-at-Arms, during the reign of James \ . » est 2e MONIVAIRD. 434 ]\I0NIVA1RD. of Fernie is Melville-house, the seat of the Earl of Leven and Melville. The house was erected, in 1692. by Georf^e, first Earl of Melville, in the fash- ion then prevalent in Scotland. It is a large square building, consisting of two principal stories, and a basement and attic. Two deep projecting wings enclosed a court at the original front, the entrance to which is ornamented by winged Mercuries. The front has since been changed, and a new entrance has been made at what was formerly the back eleva- tion. The name of Melville, as applied to the grounds around the house, is comparatively modern; for the park and enclosures include portions of the lands of Monimail, of Letham, and of Halhill. Tiie lands of Monimail anciently belonged to the Archbishop of St. Andrews, who had a castle here, a portion of which still remains to the north of Melville-house. It was originally built by Bishop William Lamber- ton, who died in June 1328, and appears to have been enlarged and improved by Cardinal Beaton, as a head with a cardinal's cap is carved on different paits of the walls. Archbishop Hamilton resided at the castle of Monimail during a severe illness, when he was attended and cured by the famous Italian physician. Cardan. About a mile from the site of the old church is a strong spring of pure wa- ter, which is known by the name of Cardan's well ; so called, says tradition, because it was by the use of this water that the physician cured the Arch- bishop. The parish of Monimail is in the presbytery of Cupar, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Le- ven. Stipend, £367 14s. 9d.; glebe, £12. Unap- propriated teinds, £607 Os. 2d. Schoolmaster's sa- lary now is £45, with about £33 fees, and other emoluments. The parish church was built in 1796, is a ratlier handsome building with a tower, and contains nearly COO sittings. There is a Free church, with an attendance of about 140; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £72 17s. lOd. There are four non-parochial schools, and two paro- chial libraries. The ancient clmrch of Monimail was a mensal church of the archbishopric of St. Andrews. MONIVAIRD AND STEOWAN, two parishes, united both civilly and ecclesiastically, and lying chiefly in the upper end of Strathearn, Perthshire. Each consists of a main body and detached sec- tions; the main bodies mutually contiguous, and the detached sections entirely isolated. Their post- town is Crieff, within half a mile of their eastern limits. The river Earn seems originally to have been, for three miles, the boundary between them ; but it has greatly altered its course here, and de- flected from the boundary. The main body of Moni- vaird is bounded on the west and north by Comrie; on the east by Monzie and Crieff; and on the south by Strowan ; and it measures in length from north to south 8 miles, and in extreme breadth 6 miles. One detached part of IMonivaird lies 2 miles south of the south-west extremity of the main body; is nearly an equilateral triangle measuring If mile along each side; is bounded on the south-east by Muthill, and on the north and the south-west by Comrie ; and occupies part of the vale and the right mountain-screen of Glenartney, drained by Druchiil- water. The main body of Strowan stretches along the south side of the Earn's valley in contact witli the main body of Monivaird; is bounded on the east and south by Muthill, and on the west by Com- rie ; and measures in extreme length from east to west 6 miles, and in extreme breadth 3 miles. Its largest detached section lies 4 miles south-west of the nearest part jf the main body, and 1 J mile south of the detached section of Monivaird; is bounded on, the west and north by Couirie, on the east by Mu- thill, and on the south by Kilmadock ; measures three miles both in extreme length and in extreme breadth ; and occupies the south-east side of the head of Glenartney, or of the congeries of hills, tra- versed by ravines and glens, and drained by the head-streams of Druchill-water. See Glexartnef. A large part of the united parish is hilly or mountainous. The heights wliich stretch along the south-east boundary of the Glenartney districts, and the southern boundary of the main body of Strowan, divide the waters which are tributary to the Forth from those which are tributary to the Tay ; and the heights along the northern extremity of Monivaird divide the basins of the Earn and the Almond. Moat of the loftier heights are very rocky and heath- clad ; yet they have many patches and expanses of verdure, and furnish sustenance to numerous flocks of sheep. Those in the north of Monivaird are among the highest Grampians which flank Strath- earn, Benchonzie, which is the highest, and stands on the boundary, has an altitude above sea-level of 2,923 feet. Near its eastern base is a cluster of small conical hills, which strike the eye of every stranger as a curious lusus naturce. Torlum, a hill on the southern extremity of Strowan, rises 1,400 feet above sea-level. The lesser hills, and the bro- ken slopes gliding down toward the Earn, have picturesque forms, and are well wooded. Nearly the whole surface of the parish displays much va- riety and great force of landscape. See Strathearn, Glenturket, and Glexlednock. There are several small lakes; the largest of wliich, Loch-Turret, about a mile long, and ^ of a mile broad, lies in the bosom of Glenturret, at the foot of Benchonzie, sur- rounded by very bold, craggy mountains; while the most interesting, covering about 30 acres, lies a mile north of the Earn, at the base of the shelving series of heights, embosomed among hanging woods and luxurious pleasure-grounds, reciprocating em- bellishments with the splendid mansion of Ochter- tyi'e. The predominant rocks are greywacke and old red sandstone in the hills, and new red sand- stone in the strath; but clay-slate also occurs, and both this and the sandstones are quarried. The soil of the hills is to a great extent moorish ; but that of the low grounds is in general light, gravelly, and fertile. Above 3,000 imperial acres in the parish are in tillage ; about 25,000 are constantly in hill pas- ture ; and about 3,000 are under wood. A consi- derable proportion of the woodland is natural for- est; and, as is noticed in an old song, the oak is a particular favourite : — "By Auchertyre there grows the aik." The principal landowners are Sir William Keith Murray, Bart., of Ochtertyre, Stirling of Strowan, Williamson of Lawers, Lord Abecrombyof Fern- tower, and Colquhoun of Clathick ; and there are several others. Ochtertyre-house is a modern struc- ture, most delighfully situated on a richly wooded terrace, sloping southward to the banks of the lake of Monivaird. The views from various points around it are surpassingly beautiful and charmingly diversified. The remains of an old castle, com- prising a square tower of about 18 feet on each side within the walls, stand on a gentle rising-ground, which runs into the middle of the lake on the same side as the mansion, and must anciently have been an island, or nearly so, accessible only in one place, and by a drawbridge. The castle was formerly of much greater extent than at present ; it is tradi- tionally said to have belonged to the Red Comyn, the rival of Sir Robert Bruce ; it is called an ancient fortalice in a document of the year 1467 ; and it was MONIVAIRD. 435 MONKLAXD. inhabited for some time about the middle of the 17th century by Sir William Murray, the first baronet of OchtertjTe. Lawers-house is also a very beautiful and romantic residence, lookint^ in the distance like an ItaHan castellated villa. It is sur- rounded with a very fine wood, and yet commands a brilliant prospect athwart Strathearn. Strowan- house and Clathick-house are commodious, modern mansions. An ancient castle of the Earls of Strath- earn stood on the summit of Tomnachastle, a beau- tiful eminence about 3 miles west of Criefi", com- manding very romantic prospects, and possessing the greatest capabilities of military defence in the times prior to the invention of gunpowder. The foun- dations of this castle were still visible in 1832 ; but they were then removed to give place to the erection of a monument to the memory of General Sir David Baird, the hero of Seringapatam, who was a land- owner in the parishes of Monivaird and Crieff". This monument is now a conspicuous feature in the gen- eral landscape of Upper Strathearn. It is an obe- lisk 82 feet high, an exact imitation of Cleopatra's needle, and is formed of blocks of Aberdeen granite, some of which weigh five tons each. A number of persons of the sept of Murray, denoted by Sir Wal- ter Scott as " eight score of the MuiTays, with their wives and children," were massacred in 1511 by a body of the Drummonds, the former having taken refuge in the cliurch of Monivaird, while the latter, who were at feud with them, set fire to the church, and prevented their escape from the flames. The mausoleum of the family of Ochtertyre now stands on the scene of the massacre and site of the church, and is an elegant Gothic building, with stained glass windows. On the estate of Ochtertyre are vestiges of two Roman posts of observation, comnianding views of the camps respectively at Dalginross and on the Moor of Orchil. Many sepulchral cairns existed near the Earn, but have been removed as material for stone fences. A very large one. called Cairn Chainichin, ' the monumental heap of Ken- neth,' still exists, and is supposed to have been raised to the memory of Kenneth IV., sirnamed the Grim, who, according to the register of St. An- drews, was slain "at Moieghvard in 1001." Several small Eoman antiquities have been found and preserved. The compact and large part of the united parish is traversed by two roads along Strathearn ; and the detached sections are cut by the road between Comrie and Callander. Popula- tion of Monivaird in 1831, 531 ; of Strowan in 1831, 395 ; of the united parisli in 1861, 782. Houses, 140. Valuation of property in 1865, £10,502. This parish is in the presbytery of Aucterarder, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patrons, the Crown and the Earl of Kinnoul. Stipend, £261 7s. lOd.; glebe, £30. Schoolmaster's salary now is £70, with £15 fees, and £7 other emoluments. The church of the united parish was built in 1804, and contains 600 sittings. There were two churclies for the respective parishes till 1804; and public worship was conducted in them on alternate Sab- baths. The date of the union of the parishes is not certainly known, but must have been prior to 1662. " The modern name Monivaird," says the Old Sta- tistical Account, " is a corruption of the ancient, which was Moivai d, as appears by a grant made by the Earl of Stratherne, in the beginning of the 13th century, of the church of St. Servanus. or Serph of Moivard, to the monastery of Inchaff'ery. Tiie ancient name is still retained, in the speech of a few inhabitants of the parish, who use i corrupted dialect of the original language of .Scotland. Tiie origin of the name cannot easily be traced. Its etymology is Gaelic ; being made up of two words, Moi Vard, signifying ' the plain of Bards.' Strowan is probably a coVruption of St. Ronan, the tutelar saint of Strowan parish." Vestiges of an ancient ciiapel exist to the south of the house of Lawerg. An ancient cross, bearing the initials I. N. R. I., stands a little to the south-west of the house ol Strowan, on a spot where markets used to be held. Among distinguished natives of Monivaird and Strowan may be mentioned Colonel Campbell of Lawers, who figured largely in the wars of the Co- venanters against the Stew'arts ; Colonel Dow, the author of a History of Hindostan ; Sir Patrick Mur- ray, who figured largely as a statesman and as an officer of state in the four first dccads of the present century; and Sir George Murray, who acted as) quarter-master-general to the British army through- out the Peninsular war, and afterwards figured much as a stateman and as a cabinet minister. MONKCASTLE. See Kilwisxixg. MONKFORD. See Mei.p.ose. MOXKLAND, an ancient barony in the north- east of the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It long constituted one district or parish ; but in 1640 it was divided into the two parishes of Old or West Monk- land, and New or East Monkland. The name of Monkland was obtained from the district having been the property in early times of the monks of Newbattle. In the early part of the reign of Mal- colm IV., that monarch granted to these monks a large tract of territory, which extended from the boundaries of Lothian on the east, to the Clyde on the west, and which constituted a hundred pounds lands of the ancient extent, the monks having am- ple jurisdiction over all of it. Excepting the lands and manor-place of Lochwood, which belonged to the bishops of Glasgow, the monks of Newbattle possessed everj- acre of territory in what are now Old and New Jlonkland, a considerable part of which they held in their own hands for cultivation, and let out the remainder in lease. Fiom docu- ments still extant, it appears that they obtained permission from the landed proprietors of the west of Scotland, as well as those in the Lothians, for free passages for themselves, their servants, cattle, and goods, from their monastery of Newbattle, to their domains in Clydesdale : and from King Alex- ander II. they obtained similar grants of free pass- age by the usual ways, with permission to depasture their cattle for one night, on every part of their route, excepting upon the meadows and growing corn. The rectorial revenues of Monkland were Joined to those of Cadder, in forming a ricli pre- bend, which was held as the appropriate benefice of the subdean of Glasgow; and alth'agh the period of this arrangement is not known, it continued till the Reformation. Previous to this era, a chai)el was erected at Kipps, on the borders of the present district of New Monkland, whieh was the property of the Newbattle monks ; and the abbots are said to have held annual courts at it, when they levied their rents and feu-duties, and transacted the other l)usiness pertaining to their barony of Monkland. This chapel was destroyed at the stormy period of the Reformation, and its site can scarcely now be pointed out. About the same time, the monastery of Newbattle was overthrown, and all the fair do- mains which had so long remained in the po?.=cs»iou of the monks were wrested from them. In 1587, the barony of IMonkland was granted in fee to Mark Ker, tlie commendator of the monas- tery, and at the s;»me time he w.as created Lord Ni'wbattle; but afterwards the barony was divided, and parcelled out into various hands. A portion called Medrocs fell to the share of Lord Boyd ; bat a still larger share of the barony was acquired by MONKLAND. 436 MONKLAND. the wily and hoarding Sir Thomas Hamilton of Bin- ning, the King's advocate of the times of James VI. He obtained a cliarter for it from that monarch in 1602, and at the same time a grant of the patron- age of the churches of Cadder and Monkland. Sir Thomas subsequently sold the barony to Sir James Cleland, whose son and heir, Ludovick, disposed of it to James, Marquis of Hamilton. In 1639, the Mai'quis secured his purchase by a charter from the King, granting him the lands and barony of Monk- land, with the right of patronage of the churches of Cadder and Monkland, to be held of the King, in fee, for the yearly payment of a trifling sum in the name of bleach-ferm. In the reign of Charles II., the College of Glasgow purchased from the Duchess of Hamilton the patrOti.ige and tithes of the sub- deanerj'^ of Glasgow, ^iv well as of the churches of Cadder and Mouklay;i ; and for this a charter was also obtained from the King, which was ratified by act of parliament in 1672. Subsequently to this period, the heritors of the parishes of New and Old Monkland purcliased the right of presentation to both these parishes from the College, under autho- rity of the act 1690, respecting the purchase of church-patronage ; and it has since been exercised by the heritors and elders The tithes of both parishes, however, still belong to the College of Glasgow, out of which the stipends of the parochial ministers are paid. Monkland is famous for its abundance of coal, iron, and other valuable minerals. Its coal has been long worked, and continues to be worked increasingly ; but its iron began to be worked only about 50 years ago, and is now its staple produce. The increase in mining since the iron began to be worked has been almost magical, changing the face of the whole district, chequering it every where with towns and villages, rendering it all a teeming scene of population and industry, drawing through it a net-work of communications in road and railway and canal, and giving it, through its iron furnaces and its coal-pits, a conspicuous or almost distinctive character for streams of flames and clouds of smoke. Its population rose from 10,998 iu 1811, or from 14,345 in 1821, to 50,534 in 1851. Its economic condition has, in consequence, become peculiar; presenting a medium character between that of an open country and that of a manufacturing city. The following official report upon it, drawn up in 1850, is interesting : — " The large mining villages now no longer ex- hibit the aspect of extreme filth and neglect for which they were formerly conspicuous. It requires time to bring a population, not yet accustomed to habits of cleanliness, to regard it for its own sake ; the masters are, therefore, obliged to employ men and carts expressly to keep the spaces about the houses free from accumulations of refuse, and to look to the drainage, &c. The efi'ect has been salu- tary in many respects. The agents also occasion- ally inspect the houses themselves, prevent over- crowding, and fine or dismiss dirty and disorderly families. In many places proper drains have been made, either covered or laid with stone or brick, and hard and dry road-ways have taken the place of the natural soil, which in wet weather was often deep with mud. Much therefore has been done towards placing the population in circumstances in which the decencies and comforts of domestic life are possible; though the original arrangement of the majority of the mining villages in large squares, or long unbroken rows, must still remain an obstacle ; and it has been so far recognised as such, that in most of the more recent works it has been aban- doned, and the cottages have been built fewer to- gether, larger, and with more rooms, and with garden-ground and all proper conveniences nearest hand. The niimber of schools, formerly so inade- quate, is now increasing 3'early, and there is every disposition to make them efiicient, by appointing and paying well-qualified mastei's and mistresses. The Messi's. Baird of Gartsherrie, who began these salu- tary measures some years ago, for their own imme- diate neighbourhood, by building a church and a magnificent establishment for all the branches of elementary education, have followed it up by open- ing other schools in some of the mining villages; and they speak with satisfaction of the good efl'ects produced upon the habits of the population, and especially of the children, by the frequent super- vision, advice, and instruction of resident clergymen and able teachers. Mr. Wilson of Dundj'van also has entered very cordially into the improvement ot the education at the four schools he has now estab- lished in connexion with his extensive works; lending-libraries likewise are to be set on foot ; and much has been done in the neighbourhood, and at his works especially, by the zeal of the minister of the Episcopal chapel at Coatbridge, to diminish ex- cessive drinking. The excellent schools at the works of Mr. Murray, Mr. Stewart, and elsewhere, are in- creasing in numbers. A handsome school, with a master's house attached, is now being built at Airdrie by Mr. Alexander, the proprietor of a large portion of the mineral dues of the district. An act of parliament was obtained two years ago for estab- lisliing a rural police in the mining portion of the county, the efi'ect of which has been to produce much more general quiet and order and respect for the law in the mining villages. The administration of justice has been rendered more complete by the appointment of the proper stafi" of law officers to re side and hold their courts in the district. A water- company, which procured an act of parliament last year, has made good progress with their arrange- ments for supplying the town of Airdrie with water, the deficiency of which was great, and in all proba- bility it will, before long, extend its supjjly to some of the large villages around, and to the great collec- tions of houses near the principal works." ilONKLAND, Koxburghshire. See Jedburgh. MONKLAND AND KIKKINTILLOCH KAIL- WAY, a railway extending from the centre of the district of Monkland in Lanarkshire, north-west- ward to the town of Kirkintilloch in Dumbarton- shire. It connects at the south-east ends with the Ballochney and the Caledonian railways, and near the north-west end, by branch, with the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway. By act of parliament in August 1848 it was amalgamated with the Ballochney rail- wa^^ and the Slamannan railway, to form what is now called the Monkland Eailways: see that ar- ticle. The Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway was authorized by parliament in 1824, and opened for traffic in 1826. It had, at first, only a single line, laid with fish-bellied rails of small weight, adapted solely for horse-haulage; but afterwards was made a double line, with parallel rails of heavy weight, adapted for locomotive-working. Its length, from its south-east terminus at Palace-craig to its north- west terminus at Kirkintilloch, is 10^ miles; but, including a branch to the junction with the Balloch- ney railway at Kipps' byre, the total length is 12J miles. A commodious basin was formed at its north-west terminus, at the Forth and Clyde canal, for the loading of vessels of every size by which that canal is navigated; and through this a communica- tion was made for its ti'affic to both the eastern and the western seas. The difference of level between the junction with the Ballochney railway at Kipps' MONKLAND CANAL. 437 MONKLAND CANAL. byre, and the basin at the point of communication with the Forth and Clyde canal, is 134 feet. The average gradient is thus 1 in 1 1 1 ; but the gradient at different parts varies from 1 in 60 to 1 in 5;200, The Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway is not properly of itself a passenger line ; though parts of it contiguous to the junctions with the liallochney railway and the Caledonian railway are traversed by passenger trains; yet, simply in its proper character of a traffic line, it has achieved great results, and earned high profits. The trade upon it for the first three or four years, indeed, was comparatively small ; but as the mineral resources of the districts adjacent to it be- came developed, its traffic increased witli amazing rapidity. Previous to its formation, the lands in the neighbourhood were comparatively shut up; their mineral fields were comparatively unproduc- tive ; and only a thatched cottage was here and there seen to dot the surface. But the railway once in operation, a change, as if effected by magic, came over the face and feelings of the district. Public works were erected, — population gathei-ed in masses by thousands, — splendid edifices were called into existence, — and property, once considered almost valueless, excepting for the scanty returns of its tillage or herbage, became a mine of wealth which may enrich many succeeding generations. MONKLAND CANAL, an artificial navigable communication between the city of Glasgow and the district of Monkland in Lanarkshire. It commences in the northern suburbs of Glasgow, or rather is prolonged westward there into junction at Port- Dundas with the Glasgow branch of the Forth and Clyde canal; and it proceeds east-south-eastward, through the Barony parish of Glasgow, and the parish of Old Monkland, to the river North Calder, at the boundary with the parish of Bothwell. It sends off four branches, — one about a mile in length to Calder ironworks, near Airdrie, in the parish of New Monkland; one, about a mile in length, to Gartsherrie ironworks : one, about J of a mile in length, to Dundyvan ironworks; and one, also about J of a mile in length, to Langloan ironworks, all in the parish of Old Monkland. The project of the Monkland canal was suggested in 1769, as a measure for securing to the inhabitants of Glasgow, at all times, a plentiful supply of coals. The corporation of the city immediately adopted the project, employed the celebrated James Watt to survey the ground, obtained an act of parliament for carrying out the measure, and subscribed a number of shares to the stock. The work was be- gun in 1761 ; and the operations were carried on till about 10 miles of the canal were formed. The first two of these miles, extending from the basin to the bottom of Blackhill, are upon the level of the upper reach of the Forth and Clyde canal; the other 8 miles, beginning at the top of the Blackhill, are upon a level 96 feet higher. The communication between these levels was at that early time carried on by means of an inclined plane, upon which the coals were lowered down in boxes, and re-shipped on the lower level. The capital which had been de- clared necessary to complete the undertaking was £10,000, divided into 100 shares; but this sum was found to be altogether insufficient; for, in addition to expending it, a debt of some amount was con- tracted in executing the above part only of the operations. The concern, in this unfinished state, produced no revenue; and the creditors naturally became pressing. A number of the stockholders, too, refused to make advances either for the liquida- tion of the debt, or for the completion of the plan. The whole stock of the company was consequently brought to sale, and purchased, in 1789, by Messrs. William Stirling and sons of Glasgow. These gentlemen, immediately after acquiring the property, proceeded to complete tlie canal; and, in 179o', having, in conjunction with the proprietors of the Forth and Clyde canal, piocured a second act of parliament, empowering the latter to make a junc- tion between tlicse navigations, by a cut from their basin at Port-Dundas in Glasgow to the Monkland canal basin, built locks at Blackhill, and extended the Monkland canal to the river Calder; and that navigation was made the acqueduct for passing the supplies of water from this stream, and a reservoir formed upon it, to the Forth and Clyde canal. On these operations the Messrs. Stirling are understood to have expended £100,000. The Monkland canal is 35 feet broad at the top, and 24 feet at the bottom. The depth of water upon the lock-sills is 5^ feet. To connect the upper and lower levels, at Blackhill, there are two sets of four double locks of two chambers; each chamber is 71 feet long from the gates to the sill, and 14 feet broad; the ascent in each being 12 feet. The level at the top of the Blackhill is continued to Sheepford, 8 miles, where there are two single locks of 11§ feet each, after which the canal goes on upon the level it has then gained to the river Calder. The supplies of water for it are derived from the contiguous streams, from the river Calder, and from the reser- voir at Hill-end, beyond Airdrie, covering 300 acres of ground near the source of that river, and which was formed at the expense of the proprietors of the Forth and Clyde navigation. From the advantage which the canal offers of easy communication with both the Eastern and Western seas, and from its un- limited command of coal, the vicinity of it has al- ways been considered favourable for "the establish- ment of manufactures, especially of a bulky nature. For a long series of years, the revenue of the canal was wholly absorbed by the expenses of its exten- sion and improvement. In 1807, when a dividend first began to be made, the gross revenue amounted to £4,725; and, in 1814, it was £5,087; although the navigation during this year was stopped during eleven weeks, principally by the severe frost, but partly on account of some necessary repairs. From 1814 or 1815, up to the year 1825, the traffic con- tinued without much variation; but about the last- mentioned date a great impulse was given to it by the establishment of ironworks in the district of Monkland. When the project of opening up that district by railways to Glasgow and Kirkintilloch was first started, it created much alann in the Canal company, lest the traffic should be entirely diverted from their navigation to the new channels. The alarm was not unfounded; bu: it only induced the company to reduce their dues to about one-third of the rate which had been charged up till that time, and al.so to expend large sums in making such im- provements on the canal, and on things connected with it, as seemed fitted to facilitate its traffic. One of these improvements was the making of addi- tional reservoirs in the parish of Shotts, all uniting in the river Calder, which Hows into the canal at Woodhall, near Holytown, thereby insuring an in- creased supply of water. Another improvement was the forming of extensive loading basins and wharves at Gartsherrie and Dundyvan, for the re- ception of traffic from the mineral railways in the vicinity. A third improvement was the making of new locks at Blackhill, near Glasgow, of such cha- racter as to excel all works of their class in Great Britain. These locks now comprise two entire sets of four double locks each, either set being worked independently of the other ; and they were formed at an expense of upwards of £30,000. In 1850, the MONIvLAND (Neav). 438 MONKLAND (Old). increase of traffic still goinpf on, the supplies of water had a^ain fallen short, and even the new locks at Blackhill could not puss the boats without undue delay. An inclined plane with rails was now formed at these locks, 1,040 feet in lentjth, and 96 feet in total ascent, at an expense of .£1 3,500. by which empty boats are taken up at a saving of 5-6ths of water, and about 9-lOths of time. Each boat is conveyed afloat in a caisson ; and the traction is done by steam-power and rope-roll.s. The plan is unique, was contrived by ]\Iessrs. Leslie and Bateman, and has answered ad- mirably. — In 1846, underparliamentary sanction, the Monkland canal became one concern with the Forth and Clyde canal. The purchase price of it to Messrs. Stirling and Sons in 1789 is said to liave been only £5 per share; but the purchase price to the Forth and Clyde company in 1846 was £3.400 per share. MONKLAND (New), a parish in the nortli cor- ner of the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It contains the parliamentaiy burgh of Airdrie, the suburban villages of Arden, Ballochney, and Clarkston, and the landward villages of Greengairs, Eiggend, and Watt's town. It is bounded by the counties of Dumbarton and Stirling, and by the parishes of Shotts, Botlnvell, Old Monkland," and Cadder. Its length east-south-eastward is nearly 9 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 7 miles. The rivulet Loggie traces most of its boundary on the north with Dumbartonshire; some small headstreams of the Avon flow out of it on the north-east into Stirling- shire; and the North Calder traces all its boundary on the south-east with Shotts. Much of its surface has an elevation of from 6i)0 to 700 feet above the level of the sei; but the rise is so gentle and con- tinuous that there is nothing whicli deserves the name of a hill or mountain. The elevated lands are situated in the centre of the parish, and run from east to west over its whole length, declining on each side to the waters of the Loggie and the North Calder. Much of the highest parts is covered with moss, and is incapable of improvement except at a very great expense; hut the lower tracts, espe- cially in the vicinity of the streams, and along the south-west and the west, present an agreeable diver- sity of vale and gently risincr-ground, and are in a high state of cultivation. The soil of the arable lands in the eastern and central parts is mossy and late; but that in the northern and western parts is parti}' of a dry character, and partly a strong clay. The parish was, for a long period, particularly dur- ing the war, famous for its culture of flax. In" some years, so much as 800 acres were under this species of crop; but the welcome advent of peace, and still more, the cheapness and universal introduction of cotton-cloth, rendered flax-cultivation here, as in every other part of the country, at that time, unpro- fitable. The present agricultui-e of the parish has no peculiar features. Its mining industry, however, as noticed in our article Monkland, is pre-eminently great, or almost distinctive. So far back as the writing of the Old Statistical Account, it is stated that " coal and ironstone are, or may be, found almost on every farm." And since then, the work- ing of these minerals has been most extensive, and is still in the course of rapid increase. The quality of the coal is only equalled by its abun- dance, which in many places is found in seams from 9 to 10 feet in thickness. The ironstone is found both in balls and in seams; and much of it is of the valuable kind called blackband, which is so abun- dantly mixed with coal as to require little addi iion of fuel in the burning. Many of the extensive iron- works in the neighbourhood, or even at a distance, particularly those of Calder, Chapel-hall, Gart- sherrie, Clyde, and Carron. are supplied with iron- stone from New Monkland. Limestone also is worked here, particularly in the northern district, but not to great extent. Several mineral springs, too, exist, chiefly of the chalybeate kind; but the Monkland-well, near Airdrie, is the most famous, and at one time enjoyed an extensive reputation for itsefticaey in thecure oi'scorbuticand othercutaneous diseases, as well as for complaints in the stomach and ej-es,— insomuch as to be a favourite resort even for the wealthy and fashionable citizens of Glasgow and its neighbourhood; but its character as a watering- place lias long departed from it, both fiom a falling oft' — undeserved it may be — in the reputation of the springs, and from the lack of features of rural beauty, which have been borne down by the onward march of a bustling and industrious mining and manufac- turing papulation. There are fourteen principal landowners, and a great many smaller ones. Among the chief mansions niaj' be mentioned those of Airdrie -house, Monkland -house, Eochsoles, and Auchengray. The parish is traversed by the middle road from Glasgow to Edinburgh, and by the Monk- land railways; and the most populous parts of it have near access also to the Caledonian railway and the Monkland canal. Population in 1831, 9,867; in 1861, 20,554. Houses, 2,380. Assessed property in 1860, £49,743. This parish is in the presbyter}' of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patrons, the heritors and kirk-session. Stipend, £339 13s. 4d.; glebe, £21 10s. Unappropriated teinds, £334 16s. lOd. The parish church stands on a commanding eminence about 2 miles from the western boundary; it was l)uilt in 1777, and repaired in 1817; and it contains 1,200 sittings. There are two chapels of ease in Airdrie, called the East church and the "West church ; the former containing 588 sittings, the latter con- taining 1,200; but the East church is unoccupied. There is also a small chapel of ease at Clarkston. There are three Free churches in Airdrie, called the West, the High, and the Broomknoll, — two of them containing jointly 1,500 sittings; and the receipts in 1865 of the West church amounted to £259 Is., —of the High church to £259 6s..— and of the Broomknoll church to £201 12s. 7d. There are two United Presbyterian churches in Airdrie, each with about 560 sittings. There are also in Airdrie a Eeformed Presbyterian church, with 350 attendants; an Episcopal chapel, with 600 sittings; an Indepen- dent chapel, and a Morrisonian cliapel, with jointly 910 sittings; a Baptist chapel, with 490 sittings; two Methodist chapels, one of them with 647 sit- tings; and a Eoman Catholic chapel, with about 1,000 sittings. The salary of the parochial school- master is £60, with about £30 fees, and about £20 other emoluments. There are in Airdrie a town academy, a Free church academy, a semi- nary for young ladies, a charity school, a ragged school, and a number of institutions of various kinds, which will be found noticed in our article on Airdrie. There are also subscription schools at Clarkston, Greengairs, and Coathill, other schools enjoying some aid at Clarkston and Green- gairs, and a number of private or raisceHaneous schools at Airdrie and elsewhere. There is a poor- house for the parish of New Monkland, containing accommodation for 300 persons; and the immber of inmates in it on the 1st of July 1851 was ISl; and on the 1st of July 1854 was 148. MONKLAND (Old), a parish on the north-west border of the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It con- tains the post-towns of Coatbridge, Calderbank, and Baillieston, part of the post-town of Tollcross, and the villages of Braes, Carmyle, Rargeddie, Cairn- hill, Causeyside, Dundyvan, New Dundyvan, Lang- MONKLAND (Old). 439 loan, Faskine, Greenend, Barachnie, Craigend, Merrystone, West Merrystone, Swinton, Coatdyke, Gartcloss, Gartsherrie, Summerlee, Foxley, Broom- house, and Dykehead. It is bounded by Baron v of Glas<;ow, Cadder,New Monkknd,BothwelI,Blantyre, Cambuslang, and Rutherglen. Its length north-west- ward is about 10 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 4J miles. The North Calder traces all the southern and south-western boundary, to the con- fluence with the Clyde at Daldome ; and the Clyde itself traces all the western boundary thence till it passes away from the parish in the vicinity of Clyde iron-works. The appearance of the parish is gener- ally flat, or gently undulating ; and whether the fer- tility of its superficies, or the abundance of its min- eral treasures is considered. Old Monkland is one of the most important and wealthy parishes in Lan- arkshire. The writer of the Old Statistical Account says, — " A stranger is struck with the view of this parish. It has the appearance of an immense gar- den." This account, penned half-a-century ago, is still generally true, if we except the fact that im- proved culture has vastly inci'eased the production of the soil, and that the rapid advance of population, and the majestic progress of the mineral trade, have sadly marred those features of rural loveliness for which the district was formerly celebrated. Withal, there are few districts which combine so much of the attributes of country-life with the bustle and stir of manufactures ; for the soil of Old Monkland is dotted at every little distance with the ornate villas of the aristocracy of the western capital, — -with the blazing furnaces and tall chimneys of the iron and coal works, — with stripes of thriving plantation, and clumps of old wood, — with orchards, grassy holms, or waving grain, — and with the homely farm-steading, or lowly dwelling of the cottar. From the facilities of obtaining lime and manure both by canal and railway, a soil — which is natur- ally fertile — has been improved to the highest de- gree; and the yearly value of the agricultural produce of the arable lands of the parish is superior to that of an equal extent of arable lands in most other parts of Scotland. The soil here, on the whole, is much more fertile than the soil above the coal fields in the other parts of the country. The arable soil is of three kinds. That along the Calder and the Clyde is a strong clay, changed by cultivation into a good loam ; that of the middle districts is a light sand, very fruitful in oats and potatoes ; and that toward the north is mainly reclaimed bog or otherwise mossy. In the northern district, the coal crops out, and there are about 1,500 acres of peat- moss. In Old Monkland, as in New Monkland, flax used to be extensively cultivated, some of the farmers having each so much as from 20 to 30 acres annually under that crop; but the system of agri- culture now pursued on the best farms, is a four- year rotation of potatoes or turnips, wheat, hay, and oats, with sometimes one year or two of pasture be- tween the hay and the oats. This parish, however, is chiefly remarkable for its working of coal and iron. In an account of it, pub- lished before the beginning of the present century, it is said: "This parish abounds with coal; and what a benefit it is for Glasgow and its environs to be so amply provided with this necessary article ! There are computed to be a greater number of col- liers here than in any other parish in Scotland." The progress in the coal-trade, since the period al- luded to, has been almost magical; and as no year passes without new pits being sunk, while the old ones continue in vigorous operation, it nould seem that scarcely any limits can be set to the vast ag- gregate production. The pits have a depth of from MONKLAND (Old). 30 to 100 fathoms ; and the principal working seams, according to the Rev. William Patrick's account oj them, in the New Statistical Account of Scotland, are as follow: "1. The upper coal; coarse, and seldom workable ; its average distance above tlio Ell-coal from U to 16 fathoms. 2. The Ell or Moss- dale coal; three to four feet thick, of inferior esti- mation in this parish, and generally too thin to work ; but in some places a thick coal, and of ex- cellent quality. 3. The Pyotshaw, or rough ell; from three to five feet thick, and fi-om seven to ten fathoms below the Ell-coal. 4. The main coal. It often unites with the above, and forms one seam, as at Drampellier in this parisli. These two seams are thus sometimes in actual contact, and in other in- stances separated by a wide interval of six or seven fathoms. 5. Humph coal ; seldom thick enough to be workable in this parish, and generally interlaid with fragments of freestone, about ten fathoms be- low the main coal. 6. Splint-coal ; about four fa- thoms below the Humph, and of very superior qua- lity. It varies from two to five feet in thickness, and is mostly used for smelting iron. This scam, when of any considerable thickness, is justly es- teemed, when got by the proprietors here, a "great prize. 7. Little coal ; always below splint, the dis- tance varying from three fathoms to six feet. It is from three to three-and-a-half feet in thickness, flnd is a free, sulphury coal of inferior quality. 8. The Virtue-well, or Sour-milk coal, from two to four feet thick, occurs from 26 to 28 fathoms below the splint. 9. The Kiltongue coal lies 22 fathoms below the Virtue-well, and like it, is from two to four feet in tliickness. 10. The Drumgray coal lies six fathoms below the Kiltongue, and perhaps from 60 to 100 fsithoms above the first or upper band of limestone. It is seldom more than 18 or 20 inches thick. There are, besides these 10 seams, about 23 smaller seams between them, none of which are of a workable thickness. The total thick- ness of the coal-measures above the lime may be about 775 feet." The same account adds: "This large and important coal-field is much intersected with dikes, and a knowledge of these is a knowledge of the strata, and of the manner in which they are aff'ected by them." Still more than to its coal, however, is the parish of Old Monkland, in recent times, indebted to its ironstone and iron-works : although it is proper to mention that the ore for tlie supply of the latter is, to a great extent, drawn from New Monkland. Tlie introduction of the hot air blast, the increasing de- mand for ircn for railway and other purposes, but, above all, the abundant possession of the most va- luable of all the iron metals, — tl.i' black-band, — which contains so much coal as nearly to burn it- self, — are the main causes which have contributed to the almost unparalleled advance of Old Monk- land in population and prosperity. To the burning of ironstone were added, about the year 1839, and in the following years, works and machinery for the manufacture of malleable iron ; and these have al- ready risen to compare with the pig-ironworks, in the proportion of aboutSO to 100 in the yearly value of their produce. Everywhere are heard the brattling of machinery, the sonorous stroke of mighty ham- mers, and the hissing and clanking of tlie steam- engine ; and the flames which perpetually belch from the craters of its numerous furnaces, and for miles around illume the country on the darkest nights, have not inappropriately earned for Old Monkland the title of the ' Land of Fire.' Fortunes have been realized here in the iron-trade, with a ra- pidity only equalled by the sudden and princely gains of some of the adventurers who accompanied MONKLAND (Old) 440 MONK'S BURN. PizaiTO to Peru. It is understood, for example, that the profits of a single establishment in tliis line dur- ing the year 1840, were nearly £60,000 ; while lit- tle more than 20 years previously the co-partnei's of this company were earning their bread by the sweat of their brow, in following the agricultural voca- tion of their fathers. The principal iron-works in the parish, or immediately adjacent to it, are those of Gartsherrie, Dundyvan, Monkland, Calder, Clyde, Summerlee, Carnbroe, and Langloan. Of 113 pig- iron furnaces in blast, in Scotland, in the year 1854, producing 750,000 tons of pig-iron, 50 were in Monkland ; and of 42 other pig-iron furnaces, then existing in Scotland, but not in blast, 17 were in Monkland. The ironstone strata in Old Monk- land and New Monkland — the strata from which the Monkland furnaces have their supply — are described by the Rev. Mr. Patrick as follows : "1. The Upper black-baud. It lies about 24 fathoms above tlie Ell-coal, as indicated in the succession of strata given above. It is of very local occurrence, like all the ironstones, aud has only been found worth working at Palace-craig. It is of inferior quality, and only about 18 inches thick. 2. The black-band, also called Mushet's black-band, from the name of the person who first worked it to any extent. This is the great staple commodity for the supply of the iron-market, and when found to any extent is a certain source of wealth to the proprietor. Its aver- age depth below the splint is about 15 or 16 fa- thoms; and it varies in thickness from 14 to 18 inches, and occupies an area of from 8 to 10 square miles. 3. Airdrie-hill black-band. In this pro- perty, which is in New Monkland, there is a band of ironstone, varying from 2 to 4 feet in thickness, lying about 3 feet below the black-band, or Mush- et's band. It is found only in part of the lands of Airdrie-hill, and is by far the most local of all the ironstones." Several kinds of sandstone, and several varieties of trap, within the parish, are in great local request for building purposes, and have been extensively quarried. A good deal of weaving is done in the parish, for the manufacturers of Glasgow ; and there are likewise other considerable departments of in- dustry, particularly in the towns. The facilities of communication by road, railway, aad canal, are re- markably great, having been multiplied and rami- fied in proportion to the large and rapidly increas- ing demands of the district for heavy traffic. The principal of them will be found described or indi- cated in our articles Caledonian Railway, Monk- land Railways, Monkland Canal, and Coatbridge. There are ten principal landowners; but the resi- dences of wealthy inhabitants are very numerous, and of great variety ; and even the architecture and general appearance of some parts of the principal seats of population are of a high order of commodi- ousness and beauty. Population in 1831, 9,580 ; in 1861, 29,543. Houses, 4,7S3. Assessed property in 1815, £19,806 _; in 1860, £195,857. This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patrons, the heritors and kirk-session. Stipend, £344 13s. 4d. ; glebe, £16 15s. Unappropriated teinds, £378 4s. lid. The parish church stands on the south-west border of the parish ; it was built in 1790, and enlarged since 1822 ; and it contains 902 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Crossbill, under the patronage of the male communicants ; it was the first place of worship in Scotland built on the church-extension scheme ; and it contains about 500 sittings. There is also a chapel of ease at Gartsherrie, built chiefly at the cost of the proprietors of the Gartsherrie iron- works, and under the patronage of the subscribers ; it is a very elegant stmcture, with a steeple, erected about 1839; and it contains 1,050 sittings. There is a Free church at Coatbridge, with an attendance of 230; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £265 10s. Id. There are, likewise, at Coatbridge an United Presbyterian church, an Episcopalian chapel, and a Roman Catholic chapel, all of recent erection. There are one principal parochial school, and three subordinate parochial schools; and the salary connected with the former is £39, while that connected with each of the latter is £10. There are an academy, conducted by a number of teachers and assistants, male and female, at Gart- sherrie ; an academy, with male and female depart- ments, at Dundyvan ; a school, with two teacliers, at Dmmpeller ; a school at the Summerlee iron- works ; a Free church school, a Roman Catholic school, a ladies' boarding school, and a mechanics' institution, at Coatbridge; and several private schools in various parts of the parish. There are also a public library at Langloan, and circulating libraries and some other institutions at Coatbridge. MONKLAND RAILWAYS, an amalgamation of the Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway, the Ballochney railway, and the Slamannan railway, together with some branches and small extensions. Each of the three railways amalgamated will be found described in its own alphabetical place. They connect the city of Glasgow, in various ways on the west, with the town of Linlithgow and the port of Borrowstownness on the east ; and are ramified in the district of jMonkland, and connected there with several parts of the Caledonian railway system. They were formed chiefly for mineral traffic, and continue to derive their principal profit from that traffic ; yet are partly employed for the conveyance of passengers. The main lines of them began to be worked conjointly in the spring of 1845; and they were amalgamated by act of parliament in the autumn of 1848, when the capital in shares of the Monkland and Karkuitilloch was £246,000, — of the Ballochney, £110,000,— of the Slamannan, £210,000. The branch to Borrowstownness was formed subse- quently to the amalgamation, at a cost of £74,445. The extent of the system open for traffic after the completion of that branch was 42 miles; and in the summer of 1853, power was obtained by the com- pany to form five connecting lines with the Edin- burgh and Glasgow railway, the Bathgate mineral fields, &c., of a total length of 10^ miles, at the esti- mated cost of £73,085. MONKLAND-WELL. See Monkland (New). MONKMIRE, a lake, about a mile in circumfer- ence, on the mutual border of the parishes of Blair- gowrie and Bendochy, in Perthshire. It was ori- ginally a shallow, reedy pool, with a profusion of rich marl m its bottom ; and it was deepened into a lake by extensive excavation of the marl for the purposes of manuring. MONKRIG. See Haddington. MONK'S BURN, a brook flowing into the left side of Douglas water, in the parish of Douglas, Lanarkshire. MONK'S BURN, a brook flowing into the North Esk, about a mile below Newhall, on the borders of Peebles-shire and Edinburghshire. It enters the glen of the Esk, in several considerable falls, amidst much fine landscape; and is overlooked at its mouth, from the opposite side of the Esk, by a height called the Steel, said to have got its name from being the scene of a skirmish with a straggling detachment of General Monk's armv. MONK'S CROFT. "See Hassendean. MONIv'S GRAVE. See Fossa way. MONK'S ISLAND. See Inchtavanach. MONKSTON. 441 MONQUHITTER. MONKSTON, a village in the parish of Collessie, Fifeshire. It is of modern erection, and consists of neat houses, arranged in one line, with an interval of 12 feet between eveiy four houses. The site of it was part of a tract called Monk's moss, which took that name from its having been granted to the monks of Lindores abbey, for supplying them with heath and moss for fuel. Population of the village, 102. Houses, 24. MONKTON AND PEESTWICK, an united par- ish on the coast of Kyle, Ayrshire. It contains the post-ofSce village of "Monkton, the barony burgh of Prestwick, and the village of Prestwick-Toll. "it is bounded by the frith of Clyde, and by the parishes of Dundonald, Symington, Craigie, Tarbolton, St. Quivox, and Newton-upon-Ayr. Its greatest length from north to south is 3| miles ; its breadth is from 1 J to 3J miles ; and its area is between 9 and 10 square miles. Two brooks — one of which, called Powburn, is powerful enough to drive two corn- mills — ran across the parish to the sea. The coast- line is about 2J miles long, low, flat, and sandy, looking tamely up from a very slow dip of submerged beach, and variegated with bluffs and sandy knolls covered with bent. The surfaee of the interior rises slightly from the frith, but looks to the eye almost a dead level. The soil along the coast, and over a considerable part of the southern district, is light sand incapable of tillage ; in the central dis- trict, is a deep, rich loam ; and in the north and north-east, is a strong earthy clay. The grounds subject to the plough, and those which are waste or in pasture, are nearly in the proportion to each other of 24 to 7. The extent of woodland is about 50 acres. Coal has been extensively worked ; and excellent sandstone, both red and white, is quarried. The principal mansions are Fairfield, Adamton, and Orangefield. There are six principal landowners. The estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1837 was £12,573 ; and the total real rental in the same year was £4,509. Assessed property in 1860, £6,985 3s. 3d. The parish is traversed by the road from Irvine to Ayr, and by the Glasgow and Ayr rail- way ; and it has stations on the railway at Monkton, 36J miles from Glasgow, and at Prestwick, 37^ miles from Glasgow. The village of Monkton stands on the road from Ayr to Irvine, at a point whence a road deflects, about a mile from the sea, 3J miles north-north-east of Ayr, 7 south-south-east of Irvine, and 8 south-west of Kilmarnock. Population of the village in 1861, 403. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,818; in 1861, 1,937. Houses, 312. This parish is in the presbyteiy of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Countess Ensidel. Stipend, £275 9s. 4d. ; glebe, £24. Unappropriated teinds, £459 17s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with fees, and some other emoluments. The parish church stands midway between the vil- lages of Monkton and Prestwick, and is a very handsome edifice, built in 1837, serving as a con- spicuous landmark, and containing 825 sittings. The old parish churches are still standing, and were both in use till 1837. That of Monkton is from 3J to nearly 4 feet thick in the walls, has long been bent off the perpendicular on one side, is roofed chiefly with oak, and has the traditionary fame of being the very building near which Sir William Wallace had the remarkable dream recorded in the 7th book of the poem of Blind Harry. The church of Prestwick is probably of equal antiquity, has stone buttresses at the east end, and serves as a landmark. There is a Free church of Monkton, with an attendance of 430; and tlie amount of its receipts in 1865 was £155 2s. 2|d. There are a Free church school in Monkton, a burgh school in Prestwick, and a subscription school, called the New Prestwick school. The united parish was constituted in the 17th century; and it comprised the old parish of Monkton, which was anciently called Prestwick, the old parish of Prestwick, which was anciently called Prestwick-burgh, and the cliapel tlistrict of Crossby, which, previous to the Eefoi-mation, belonged to Dundonald. Prestwick lies on the south, Monkton in the middle, and Crossby on the north. The first had its name from being the 'habitation of a priest;' the second from becoming the property of monks; and the third from having a 'dwelling at a cross.' The church of Monkton was anciently dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and that of Prestwick to St. Nicholas; and both were given by Walter, the son of Allan, the first Steward of Scotland, to the monks of Paisley, and continued to be, the former a vicarage, and the latter a chaplainry, under them till the Keformation. In 1779, the southern part of Prestwick was de- tached from the district, and erected into the parish of Newton-upon-A3'r. Between Prestwick and Prestwick Toll, stand some ruins of an ancient hospital for lepers, dedicated to St. Ninian. The establishment is traditionally said to have been founded by King Robert Brace, who was himself afflicted with leprosy, the result of hard fare, hard living, and hard work. It was endowed with the lands of Kobert-loan, now called Loans, in Dundon- ald parish, with the lands of Sheles and Spital Sheles, and some other lands in Kyle Stewart; and it was governed by a prior or guardian, and had a chaplain. Wallace of Newton acquired, in the reign of James II., its lands of Spital-Sheles, the hereditary gover- norship of its other lands, and the hereditary pos- session of its office of keeper; and in 1515, Hugh Wallace of Newton resigned the whole in favour of his brother Adam. All that new remained of its revenue, were the feu-duties payable from its lands granted in fee-farm ; and this was thenceforth dis- tributed in equal shares among eight objects of the greatest charity, — the leprosy having long disap- peared. The right of appointing the recipients belonged for a long time to Wallace of Craigie, but was purchased in 1787 by the burgh of Ayr. Robert Gordon, in his description of Kyle, written in the reign of Charles I., mentions the chapel of the hos- pital, and says that the persons admitted to the charity were then lodged in huts or cottages in the vicinitv. MONKTON HALL, a village on the left bank of the river Esk, a mile north of Musselburgh, in the parish of Inveresk, Edinburghshire. While the Scottish army lay around it previous to the battle of Pinkie, a hurried and imperfect pn iiament was con- voked in the village, and enacted that the nearest heir of any person who should fall in the battle should, if the slain were an ecclesiastic, receive a gift of his benefice, and if a layman, have his ward, non- entresse, relief, and marriage free. Population, 117. Houses, 26. MONORGAN. See Lonoforgan. MONQUHITTER, a parish, containing the post- office village of Cuminestown and the village of Gar- mond, in the Turriff" district of Aberdeenshire. It is hounded by King Edward, New Deer, Methlick, Fyvie, and Turriff. Its length southward is about lOi miles; and its greatest breadtii is about 8 miles. Its" surface, for the most part, was formerly very moorish and barren, but has been materially im- proved by reclamation and culture. It has gener- ally a monotonous undulating character; and its hills look bleak and barren. But its best grounds arc in beautiful cultivation; and even its bogs have tiieir uses in affording sui)plies of excellent peat MONREITH. 442 MONTEITR fuel. The extent of plantation in it is yet compara- tively small. Two i-i^-nlcts, the Tratc' of Assleerl and tlie water of Idocli, drain its interior, and draw toward them the tribute of numberless copious springs; the former running in a southerly direction, and tracing the boundary with New Deer and Meth- lick, to fall eventually into the Ythan, while the latter iiins in a south-westerly direction, giving to its basin the name of the vale of Idocli, passing near the parish church and the village of Cuminestown, and departing into the parish of Turriff to become tributary to the Deveron. A red sandstone abounds and is extensively quarried; but it is very ferru- ginous, and not a good building material for dwelling- houses. The pi'evailing soils of the arable lands are a reddish loam, and a deep black mould, both of them superincumbent on pebbly clay. Vast addi- tions have been made, within the last fifty years, to the extent of cultivated land. Some of the arable land is let so high as £2 2s. per acre; but most of it brings no greater an average than from 10s. to £1. The value of assessed property in 1860 was £6,185. At Lendrum in this parish, tradition relates that a great battle, which continued three days, was fought between Donald of the Isles and "the Thane of Buclian, in which the former received a final over- throw. A prophecy was long current that corn growing on ' The Bloody Butts of Lendrum ' would never be reaped without strife and bloodshed amongst those engaged in the work, and it is said to have been surprising how often this prediction was liter- ally fulfilled; " a circumstance which may be easily accounted for," says the author of the Statistical Account, " by the trepidation, or the furor which, according to the respective constitutions of the reapers, is inspired by the recollection of this awful scene." The locality here known as Finlay's mire, indicates the spot where some Covenanters were cut off by the Ogilvies; and heads of spears, &c., have been found in an exhausted moss in the vicinity. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,004; in 1861, 2,580. Houses, 4S2. This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Fife. Sti- pend, £232 6s. 5d.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £298 Is. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £35, with about £30 fees, and a share in "the Dick bequest. Tlie parish cliurch was built in 1764, and enlarged in 1792, and contains 1,050 sittings. There is a Free church with an attendance of 250; and the amount of its receipts in 1865 was £115 Is. 6^d. There is an Episcopalian chapel at Cuminestown, built in 1844, and containing 140 sittings. There are 3 non-pnrochial schools and a Sabbath-school library. The parish of Monquhitter was anciently part of the parish of Turriff, and was made a sepa- rate parish in 1 649. MONREITH, a village in the parish of Glasser- ton, Wigtonshire. Population, 94. Houses 24. MONRITHMONT-MOOR, a tract of about 2,000 acres, stretching northward from the most northerly part of the Sidlaw hill range in Forfarshire. It was once a waste common, unowned by any parochial district; but is now almost all a "densely planted forest, and is understood to be distributed among the parishes of Farnell, Kinnell, Kirkden, Guthrie, and Brechin, — about three-fourths being included in the first. MONS-HILL. See Dalmeny. MONTAGUE'S- WALK. See Kinnoul. MONTCOFFER. See Ki.ng-Edward. MONTEITH, a district in the south-west of Perthshire, Excepting the parish of Balquhidder, which anciently belonged to the stewartry of Strath- \arn, the district of Monteith comprehends all the lands west of the Ochil hills in Perthshire, whoso waters discharge themselves into the Forth. The vale of the Teith, whence the name is derived, occu- pies the central and larger part, but is flanked on the one side by the Perthshire section of the upper vale of the Forth, and on the other side by the lower part of the vale of the Allan. The entire district is about 28 miles in length from east to west, and 15 in extreme breadth; and includes the whole of tlie parishes of Callander, Aberfoyle, Port-of-Monteith, Kilmadock, Kincardine, and Lecropt, and part of the parishes of Kippen, Dunblane, and Logic. Large tracts of it are eminently rich in the finest elements of landscape. Previous to the abolition of hereditary jurisdictions, Monteith was a separate or independent stewartry. The district anciently gave the title of eaii to a branch of the noble family of Graham. The earldom was created in 1428, be- came conjoined with the earldom of Airth, and since 1694 has been dormant, MONTEITH (LocH of), a fine sheet of water in the parish of Port-of-Monteith, Perthshire. It is of a circular form, and about 7 miles in circumference. Its shores display none of that rude magnificence and grandeur which is the usual characteristic of Highland sceneiy; but, on the other hand, they present an aspect of soft pastoral beauty which soothes the soul, and fills the contemplative mind with thoughts calm and quiet as its own transparent waters. The northern shore is beautifully adorned with oak, Spanish chestnut, and plane trees of ancient growth, — the remains of those which adorned the park of the Earl of Monteith. On the same side, the manse and church of Port-of-Monteith, with the elegant mausoleum of the family of Gart- more situated close on the margin of the water, in- crease the interest of the scene. The lake contains three islands, two of which, from the noble wood that adorns them, add greatly to the beauty of its expanse; and a long, narrow, wooded promontory, which runs far into the water, diversifies the south- ern shore. The larger island is called Inchmahome, or ' the Isle of Rest;' and well is it named so, for a more calm abode could not easily be selected than might here be found for a pious mind: see Inchma- home. The island immediatel}' to the west, which is less in size, is called the island of Tulla, or the Earl's Isle. Tulla signifies, in Gaelic, ' a hall;' and on this island the Earls of Monteith had their resi- dence, the ruins of which still exist, comprising an ancient tower and some domiciliary buildings. The smallest island is called the Dog Isle, where the Earls had their dog-kennel; while the stables were situated on the western shore of the lake. Of the chapels attached to the priory of Inchmahome, one was situated at the east end of the lake, about a furlong north from its outlet, and close to the shore; another was at Arnchly, ' the Field of the Sword,' about a mile from the west end of the lake ; a third at Cappellerroch, in the barony of Drummond; and a fourth at Balquahapple, formerly the property of the family of Drummond. MONTEITH (Port of), a parish, containing the post-office village of Gartmore and the villages of Ruskie and Tomachar, in the district of Monteith, Perthshire. It lies on the southern border of the county, being separated along most of its southern extremity by the river Forth, from Stirlingshire and Kippen ; and it is bounded on the other sides by Aberfoyle, Callander, Kilmadock, and Kincardine. Its length eastward is 9 miles; and its greatest breadth is 6J miles. Loch-Vennachoir lies on its northern boundaiy, and the loch of Monteith lies nearly in its centre; and these two lakes contribute much b illiance to its landscape. See Venxaciioijj MONTEITH. 443 MONTROSE. (Loch) and Monteitu (Loch of). The Forth flows across the south-east wing of the parish, cut- ting off there a district of 2J miles by 1 J around the village of Gartmore, and then commences to trace the southern boundary; it runs incessantly in bold Bweeping sinuosities, so as to have connection with the parish over a distance of at least 12 miles; and just when entering, it debouches from among the grand hill scenery of its origin and early course, and begins to move with the slow proud pace of queenly beauty along the magnificent valley which thence- forth forms its broad smooth path. Goodie-water, issuing from Loch-Monteith, flows 3| miles east- ward through the interior. Loch-Drunkie, a mile long, zoned with wood, and ensconced among tower- ing heights, lies on the western boundary, and sends ■>S a streamlet IJ mile long to Loch-Vennaclioir. Loch of Lettei-, Loch of Eoskie, and Dow-loch, are a chain of lochlets in the north-east, whence issues a tributary of the Goodie, 2| miles in length of course, chiefly along the eastern boundary. Lochan- Ballach, a mile from Loch-Vennachoir, forms a beautiful round basin, about half-a-mile in circum- ference, on the highest summit of a lofty ridge of heights. The northern district of the parish, com- prising about one-third of the whole area, is wildly upland, consisting of a congeries of rocky and moun- tainous elevations, chiefly covered with heath, and admitting cultivation only in some confined hollows, and along some narrow skirts. The south-east corner comprises a part of Flanders moss, in all re- spects similar in character to the famous one of Kincardine. The rest of the area, including the dis- trict on the south side of the Forth, is nearly all level, consisting of rich carse land toward the river and of dryfield toward the hills, and presenting an appearance of much fertility and high culture. The summits in the northern dis- trict have an elevation of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the level of the sea; they form, at this part, the frontier of the Scottish Highlands; and the transition from them to the lowlands of the parish is sudden and perfect, insomuch that the altitude of large part of these lowlands is not more than 20 feet above the level of high tide mark in the Forth. A limestone occurs in the mountains of the quality of marble, having a blue ground streaked with white; and when burnt, it affords a quicklime of the purest white. A bluish grey sandstone occurs in the champaign district, close in texture, and very suit- able for pavements and staircases. There are eight principal landowners, and about ten or twelve less extensive ones. The chief residences are Cardross- house, Rednock-house, Gartmore-house, Blairhoyle, and Inner Trosachs. A Roman castellum, about 50 paces in diameter and irregularly square, occurs at the north-west extremity of Moss Flanders. A Roman iter appears to have come in this direction, branch- ing ofi' from the great Roman causeway which ex- tended from Camelon to Brechin. An eminence, called Keirhead, either wholly or partly artificial, and now the site of a house of its own name, occurs about a mile north-east of the castellum of Flanders- hill, and appears to have anciently been a military post overlooking the plain on the south. A skirmish took place in 1489 between King James IV. and the Earl of Lennox at Tullimoss, north-west of the Loch of Monteith. A spot called Suir, near the house of Gartmore, is noted as the place where Rob Roy is said to have taken from the factor of the Duke of Montrose his collection of rents. The parish is tra- versed along the middle westward by the road be- tween Doune and the south bank of the head of Loch-Katrine, and northward by two roads from Stirlingshire, which converge, and run toward Cal- lander. Population, in 1831, 1,664; in 1861. 1,375. Houses, 245. Assessed property in 18G0, £10,906.' This parish is in the presbyterv of Dunblane, and synod of I'erth and Stiriing. Patron, Erskine of Cardross. Stipend, i:280 128. 5d.; glebe, £8. Un- appropriated teinds, £636 4s. 8d. fcchoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. Ud., with £15 fees, and £20 other emoluments. The parish church is situated on the north bank of the Loch of Monteith, and has an at- tendance of about 240. There is a chapel of ease at Gartmore, under the patronage of the communicants, built in 1790, and containing 415 sittings. There is also a Free church at Gartmore, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £125 8s 9d. The parish anciently was called simply Port, and still is often popularly called Port ; and that name was, in the first instance, given to the landing-place of the priory of Inchma- home, and of the seat of the Earls of Monteith, on the sliore of the Loch of Monteith. A village rose at the landing place, took the name of Port, and was erected by James HI. into a burgh of barony; and the parish church being erected there, the name was naturally extended to the parish. The ancient par- ish, however, was not so extensive as the modem one; it belonged to the priory of Inchmahome; and in 1615 there was annexed to it part of the ancient parish of Lany. MONTEViOT. gee Craiuxo. MONTH (The). See Aberdeen. MONTKEGGIE. See Keith-Hall. MONTQUHANY. See Kilmaxv. MONTQUHITTER. See Moxquhitter. MONTROSE, a parish, containing a royal burgh of its own name, at the north-east extremity of the maritime district of Forfarshire. It is bounded on the north by Logie-Pert and Kincardineshire; on the east by the German ocean ; on the south by the South Esk, which divides it from Craig ; and on the west by Montrose basin and by Dun. Its length south- ward is 4 miles; its greatest breadth is a little up- wards of 3 miles ; and its area is about 3,080 Scotch acres. The North Esk runs 3 miles along the north- ern boundary, chiefly between high and wooded banks, and is there isleted and picturesque. The South Esk touches the parish only while running between Montrose basin and the sea: See Esk (South). Tayock-burn, coming in from Dun, runs 1^ mile south-eastward, partly in the interior and partly along the boundary, to the north-east corner of Montrose basin. This basin is an expanse of nearly ellipsoidal outline, about 7 miles in circum- ference, alternately sheeted with pent-up water, and exposed in the naked repulsiveness of sand and sludge at the influx and the recess of the tide. At high water, it has a charming ppearance, looks like a brilliantly zoned lake, and washes the walls of the gardens which subtend the whole west side of the town ; and, by the regular and rapid rush of waters which it occasions in the action of the tide, it both protnotes the cleanliness of the burgh and prevents the formation of a bar injurious to naviga- tion across the mouth of the river. An attempt was at one time made, bv running a dike from near the Forthill, along the bank of the South Esk toward the estate of Dnn, to cut ofl' a considerable part of the basin, and convert the strong carse clay which forms its bed into arable land. But the dike, in consequence of misunderstandings among the parties interested, was very slowly constructed; and, just when nearly completed, it was laid prostrate by a storm. The work was, not long ago, traceable, and bore the name of the Drainers dike. Wild geese arrive in great flocks at the basin about the end of October, and remain till March, frequenting thfl wheat stubble or the green wheat fields on the low MONTROSE. 444 MONTROSE. grounds during the day, and spending the night on the lagoon. Flocks of wild ducks alternate or re- verse the possession of the two localities with the geese. Swans visit the hasin in severe storms, hut speedily depart. Many other species of aquatic birds, as well as varieties of the duck and the goose, frequent the locality. The beach along the sea-coast of the parish is pure sand, dipping at so fine a gradient beneath the wave, and atibrding so smooth a carpeting for the feet, as strongly to allure even the most timid to the luxury of sea-bathing. A low bank of bluffs and sandy knolls, thinly clad with bent, flanks the line of floodmark from Esk to Esk. Behind this bank, and parallel to its whole length, stretches a belt of undivided common, with very light soil and short thin herbage, of the kind provincially called links, narrow in the north and centre, but widening toward the south, and eventually occupying the whole peninsula between the basin and the sea, ex- cept the site of the burgh and its outskirts. Land of naturally the same description — sandy to a great depth, and capable of bearing but slender vegeta- tion — lies for 6 or 7 furlongs from flood-mark all the way along to the North Esk; and, behind the belt of common, it is, on the north, covered with a plantation of firs, and, toward the town, subjected to a scantily productive tillage. A mound or low bank of round water-worn stones, only a few yards in breadth, and travei'sed along the summit by the coast road from Dundee to Aberdeen, runs for a mile parallel with the sea, and flanks the sandy grounds. West of this mound, the lands are all powerfully fertile, and under prime cultivation. The surface slowly rises toward the north-west, and at- tains its highest elevation on the boundaries with Dun and Logie-Pert; and though even here of very inconsiderable height, a fine view is obtained hence of the whole parish, the basin and the town, the windings of the South Esk among rich fields and parks, much of the upper end of Strathmore studded with mansions and feathered with wood, the round tower and antique steeples of Brechin, the vast galleried amphitheatre of the Forfarshire and Kin- cardineshire Grampians, and a far-stretching ex- panse of the German ocean. The gentle general swell, the summit of which gives this landscape to the eye, is called Montrose hill. All the lower part of the parish is sand to a great depth, mixed with sea-shells, evidently of modern deposit, indicating that Montrose basin, at a very recent geological period, was a bay. Great part of the higher grounds of the parish probably rests on limestone ; and on the estate of Hedderwick that rock has been quarried. The stones used in building have not been found within the parish, but have generally been brought by land from Brechin, or by sea from Fifeshire. A mineral well in the parish has had some medicinal re- pute among the people in its immediate neighbour- hood, but has never attracted visitors from a distance. Much of the land adjacent to the town, or in the near environs, is disposed in small properties or feus of from two to eight acres each ; and the rest of the land is distributed chiefly among five proprietors. The parish is traversed for three miles by the coast road from Dundee to Aberdeen, for two miles by a road going off thence to Fettercairn, and for nearly one mile by another road going oif toward Brechin ; and it has a bi'anch railway, commencing at the town on the side of the links, and curving north- westward 3 J miles to the Aberdeen railway at the Dubton junction. The value of the assessed pro- perty of the landward part of the parish in 1866 was £9,499 8s., — of the burgh, £36,430. The real rental in 1855 of the landward part was £5,858, —of the burgh, £31,259. Population of the parish in 1831, 12,065; in 1861, 15,455. Houses, 1,672. This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and synod of Angus and Mearns. The charge is col- legiate. Patron of the first charge, the Crown ; oi the second charge, the Town-council. Stipend' ol the first minister, £292 5s. Id. ; glebe, £20. Unap- propriated teinds, £90 6s. 8d. Stipend of the second minister— derived from an assessment upon house- rents within the burgh, at the rate of 5d. per pound, in virtue of an act of the Scottish parliament in 1090, authorizing a maximum assessment of Is. per pound— £340. The parish-church was built in 1791, is double-galleried, and contains 2,500 sittings. There is a second place of worship connected with the Establishment, called Melville church, of recent erection, and now constituted a quoad sacra parish church. There are three Free churches, St. John's, St. George's, and St. Paul's;— the first built in 1829, as a chapel of ease, at a cost of £3,969, and containing 1,430 sittings; the second built soon after the Dis- ruption, and of similar spaciousness to St. John's; the third built in 1860, in plain Gothic style ; with a neat spire. There are also thiee United Presby- terian churches; — one of them in Mill-street, a fine recent building, on the site of a predecessor which had 500 sittings; another in John-street, built in 1824, at a cost of £1,100, and containing 750 sittings; the third in Castle-street, recently erected. There is a Scottish Episcopalian chapel, called St. Mary's, in Panmure-place, erected a few years ago, partly by means of a donation of £1,000 from Mr. Scott of Brotherton, and containing about 500 sittings. There is also an English Episcopalian chapel, called St. Peter's, built in 1724, and containing about 80C sittings. There are two Independent chapels ; the one connected with the Congregational Union of Scotland, and built in 1844 in lieu of a former one ; the other not so connected, but belonging to the Evangelical Union ; and the two together containing 1,250 sittings. There is a Baptist chapel, which was built in 1826, and contains 200 sittings. There is a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, built in 1814, at the cost of upwards of £900, and containing 330 sittings. There is likewise a Glassite place of worship, with an attendance of about 30. The principal schools are the Montrose academy, giving instruction in Latin, Greek, natural philosophy, physical geography, mathematics, arithmetic, an- cient geography, modern geography, history, Eng- lish grammar, composition, modern languages, writing, drawing, and needle work, and conducted by a rector, a rector's assistant, four masters, and a mistress; Dorward's seminary, giving instruction in English, wilting, arithmetic, navigation, Latin, and French, and conducted by two masters; the old parish sessional schools, with English, writing, and industrial departments; the Loanhead sessional school, conducted by one master; St. John's Free church schools, with English, writing, and industrial departments; the burgh infant school, conducted by female teachers; White's free school, conducted by one master; Straton's free school, conducted by a master and a mistress ; and the Castle-street schools, established on the principle of the ragged schools, for children of the lowest class. MONTROSE, a post and market town, a seat of manufacture, a sea-port, and a royal burgh, stands 8 miles east by south of Brechin, 12 north-north- east of Arbroath, 18 east-north-east of Forfar, 22 south-south-west of Stonehaven, 30 north-east of Dundee, 38 south by west of Aberdeen, and 70 north- north-east of Edinburgh. But these distances are by road; and those by railway are 9 J from Brechin, 17 from Arbroath, 22 from Forfar, 26 from Stone- MONTROSE. 445 MONTROSE. haven, 42 from Aberdeen, and 124 from Edinburgh. The site of the town is in the peninsula which forms the south end of its cognoniinal parish. One side of the town, over its whole length, extends north and south along the shore of Montrose basin ; a large wing of it expands south-eastward along the South Esk; much of its east side straggles into the links ; its north end attenuates in a line nearly parallel to the basin; and its burgh lands, partly occupied by buildings, but more extensively disposed in public promenade, or unenclosed common, comprise the whole tract between the basin and the ocean. The ground beneath and around the town, excepting three knolls on the basin, and the low sand-bank along the marg-in of the links, is nearly all a dead level. Yet neither the low flatness of the site nor the encincturement by water is damaging to healthi- ness or scenery. The dryness of the soil, the ab- sence of all marsh, and the sweeping action of the current between the basin and the sea, act favour- ably on the climate; and to a person approaching from the south, and coming in view of the tovvn from the high ground traversed by the public road in the parish of Ciaig, the fine sweep of the broad South Esk fringed with shipping, docks, and vari- form edifices, and stretching out to the sea on the right, — the large circular basin set round with richly-cultivated fields, and forming the foreground to a far-spreading expanse of luxuriant landscape on the left, — the town lifting up several imposing structures, and retiring in a large broad field of architecture in front, — the receding prospect liehind it exhibiting a fine variety of swell and hill and plain, of mansions, fields, and woods, till the eye ceases to discern distinctive features, — and the dark, vast amphitheatre of the Grampians, piled shelvingly against the sky, and forming a stupendous mountain- bulwark at 20 miles distance, — altogether present one of the most diversified and magnificent views in the United Kingdom. The town, as entered by the suspension-bridge over the South Esk, commences in two streets, forking-off from the end of the bridge, running somewhat parallel, each about J of a mile long, and both leading north-eastward to the head of the prin- cipal street. That next the basin bears the name of Bridge-street, and is straight, spacious, modern, and neatly though not entirely edificed. The other bears the names of Upper-Fishergate and Cnstle- street, and is narrow, of unequal width, winding, antique, and disagreeable. Murray-street and High- street, the principal thoroughfare, runs due north, and is nearly half-a-mile long. Commencing con- tinuously with Castle-street, and 100 yards east of the end of Bridge-street, it is at first aspacious area, split into two thoroughfares by a suite of old grim buildings; it next has a moderate width, and is subtended on the east by the town-house and kindred edifices ; it now, over a distance of 300 yards, becomes a street of uncommon spaciousness, or rather a slender, elongated rectangle; and it finally goes off in a straight line, of fair breadth and reputable appearance. In its expansive part, it has lofty houses, excellent shops, and decidedly a city- aspect; yet, several of the houses being of the gable- end construction, and most of them seeming to economize space, it strangely but pleasingly blends ancient and oriental with modern and airy features. A spacious road, called the Mall, continues the line of this street about 5 furlongs northward; and is thickly sprinkled with edifices,— the mansion, the villa, and the cottage. Two hundred yards east of the end of the bridge commences a thoroughf^ire. which makes nearly the segment of a circle over two-thirds the length of the town, forming a kind of parallel to both Castle-street and IIi