UC-NRLF B 3 flMb 57 1 / Sick I GIFT or tJNTVi :" ',•■• f.iFORNTA UOUSiCilai.D feClEKCii ^-n ^/,^^ c ^ ^ / T /"/r-/, vr/6, DIET FOR THE SICK A TREATISE ON THE VALUES OF FOODS, THEIR APPLICATION TO SPECIAL CONDITIONS OF HEALTH AND DISEASE, AND ON THE BEST METHODS OF THEIR PREPARATION BY Mrs. MARY F. HENDERSON AUTHOR OP "practical cooking and dinner giving" ILLUSTRATED '■'■Man Mils Mrmelf^ rather than dies''^ NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE BIOLOGV GIFT Copyright, 1885, by Harper & Brothers. All right* reterved. TO Dr. EDWARD BAYARD, of New York AND Dr. T. GRISWOLD COMSTOCK, of St. Louis the former the life-long friend of my father, and both eminent physicians for whom i have unbounded respect and esteem, this book Is (Kratefttlljj JUcbicateb 41C533 PREFACE. An English author saj^s, "The doctor, unsupported by the cook's material aid, and the cook, unguided by the doctor's knowledge, are two powerful agents, half of whose strength is paralyzed or misdirected." There are many valuable books published on "die- tetics," w'hich give at great length the chemical analy- ses of foods, their flesh -building and heat -producing values, etc. Many books are also published containing receipts for the sick. But the wise suggestions contained in the quotation have been too little heeded. The doctors have not been cooks. The cooks have not been doctors. The author, although neither a doctor nor a cook (as high art can reach in that direction), still concluded to modestly venture into the domains of both, with the view^ of studying the relations of foods to health and disease, and also the best modes of preparing them for use. The subject is an important one. A proper dietary is surely as essential to the recovery of an invalid as medicine ; and yet it will be observed that medical works give a thousand pages to medicinal therapeutics to one of dietetics. A physician at the head of one of our medical col- leges writes : " An experience of ten years in exam- vi Preface. ining medical Btudents, reveals a tendency in them to consider themselves * medicine men,' as is shown by the undue importance they attach to the pills, powders, and potions they are prepared to give. They ignore the great fact that upon a carefully selected diet the patient must depend for the natural strength which is to be the chief reliance in stemming the adverse tide." The professor might have added more ; for the treat- ment of most chronic complaints is chiefly dietetical and hygienic, rather than medicinal. The science is comparatively new which treats of the chemical composition, preparation, and physiological effects of foods. May the time come when nothing in the way of dietetical treatment need be left to the fickle appetites of patients, nothing to the judgments of anx- ious friends, and nothing to untrained cooks ! If this hand-book — intended to be small, though the subject is large — can be of use in the direction just indicated, it will give great pleasure and satisfac- tion to The Author. St. Louis, Marcliy 1885. CONTENTS. REMARKS ABOUT BEVERAGES AND FOODS . .Page 1 Tea... 1 Coffee . . . , o 5 Cocoa 5 Chocolate « 5 Iced Water and Iced Tea 6 Spirituous Liquors 8 Malt Extract 9 Milk 10 Buttermilk 13 Whey 13 Animal Foods 13 Salted Meats 16 Fish 16 Oysters « 16 Fat o, 18 Eggs , 20 Rice , o 20 Corn-starch and Arrow-root r, 21 Sago and Tapioca = 21 Beans and Pease . . . » , „ . , 21 Gelatine 21 Tomatoes 22 Fruits, Grapes, Bananas, etc 22 Sea-moss Farine and Sea Moss . . o 25 TilE NEW HEALTH FOODS AND OTHER GRAIN PREPARA- TIONS o o . . , 26 KOUMISS 31 ARTIFICIAL DIGESTION BY MEANS OF PANCREATIC FER- MENTS „... 39 GRAPE JUICE 44 viii Contents. THE HOT-WATER CURE Page 47 DIET IN DIFFERENT DISEASES, ETC ... 49 Diet for Babies 49 Dyspepsia 55 Diarrhea 61 Dyseuteiy 62 Cholera 62 Fevers 64 Typhoid Fever 66 Gout and Rheumatism 6*7 Bright's Disease 09 Diabetes Vl Consumption 73 Scrofula 75 Rickets 75 Diphtheria , 76 Gastritis 76 Corpulency 77 Colds and Catarrhs 225 SOMETHING ABOUT LONGEVITY 80 UTENSILS 85 RECEIPTS FOR THE SICK AND CONVALESCENT 89 Drinks 89 Beef Teas and Broths . 100 Gruels 106 Breads and other Grain Preparations 113 Receipts for Gluten 130 Vegetables 134 Little Dishes ,.. 139 Some Cream Soups 158 Other Soups 164 Dishes of Rice 169 Creams and Fruits 174 Custards 180 Jellies 184 Puddings 190 BILLS OF FARE FOR CONVALESCENTS 194 APPENDIX 199 Effkcts of Tka and Coffki:. ExtracL Irum aitielc by M. Matticu Williams 199 Contents, ix APPENDIX {continued). Influence op Alcoholic Liquors. Remarks on the subject by Prof. Edward L. Youmans and others Page 205 Tendency of Common Wheat Flour to Produce Brigiit's Dis- ease, Diabetes, etc 20'7 Something about Koumiss. Extract from an article by Dr. E. F. Brush of New York, in the Medical Record. , .• . 208 More about Koumiss. By Dr. T. Griswold Comstock of St. Louis 211 The Digestive Ferments. Extracts from a book on the subject by Dr. William Rob- erts of Manchester, England 212 Pancreatic Emulsion of Fats. Extract from a work on "Loss of Weight, Blood Spitting, and Lung Disease," by Dr. Horace Dobell 213 Food for Infants. Remarks by Dr. Eustace Smith, Physician to the King of the Belgians 215 Feeding the Baby. Remarks by Dr. E. C. Page, in his book " How to Feed the Baby".. 221 Diet for Typhoid Fever. Extracts from an address on the "Treatment of Typhoid Fever," by Sir William Jenner , 223 Colds and Catarrhs. Extract from an article by Dr. Felix Oswald, published in the " Popular Science Monthly " 225 More about the Pancreatic Extract 228 ALPHABETICAL INDEX 231 DIET FOE THE SICK. REMARKS ABOUT BEVERAGES AND FOODS. Tea. This article contains an astringent matter, tannin (constituting from eighteen to twenty-five per cent, of the whole), a volatile oil yielding the aroma, and theine. Authorities differ regarding the effects of tea upon the system. Liebig claims that theine and caffeine, in some way not satisfactorily explained, prevent or suspend the waste of tissue. As nitrogenous foods are necessary to supply or reinforce the tissues, he thinks that whatever prevents the waste of tissue takes the place of such foods, and, pro tanto^ dispenses with the necessity of their use. This theory is now substantially exploded. More thorough investigation, supplemented by careful experiments, has demonstrated almost beyond question that the waste of tissue is not, in fact, prevented by tea or coffee. The essential principles of both are stimu- lating in their effects. They increase the action of the heart and the arteries, and furnish, like alcohol, a tran- sient increase of vital energy. These stimulating effects have, by Liebig and some others, been accepted as the prolongation or maintenance of healthful strength and vital force. These effects are deceptive. The advan- tages are as unreal as those sometimes supposed to spring from the use of alcoholic liquors. In truth, if alcohol were taken in small enough quantities to produce an 1 2 :\ : :/ : vl^^^/Jii"^/: al}&ut}Foods. effect no more stimulating than the use of tea, it would be less injurious to the system, from the fact that tea is mixed with the food, adulterating it with tannin, which is not contained in alcohol. Dr. Bellows considers Liebig's theory fallacious, and attributes the benefits of tea rather to its osmazone (the flavoring principle). He says that food is moi"e digesti- ble and assimilable when it is taken with gustatory pleas- ure. The aromatic principle of tea commends it to the taste. He instances an experiment on a dog that was shut up and given good natural food containing all the needed elements except osmazone ; i. e.^ the food was cooked and recooked until all flavor and odor were lost. The dog finally refused to eat and pined away. It may be possible that the overcooking renders the fibres and other elements unfit for digestion, making them tough and depriving them in some degree of nu- tritive power. The dog's food, in the case named, was, perhaps, little better for dietetic purposes than so much wood. Flavor, or the sense of taste, is possibly an index by which nature, unperverted, determines the proper food to be taken into the stomach at any given time. Professor Lehman also believed that tea and coffee lessen tlie waste of the body. Dr. Edward Smith be- lieves to the contrary. He says (in "Foods"), "I per- formed a very extended series of experiments on myself and others, which proved that tea excites vital action, and is practically a respiratory stimulant. ... In reference to nutrition, tea increases waste, since it promotes the transformation of food without supplying nutriment, and increases the loss of heat without supplying food." Tea, therefore, he thinks, should only be taken after a full meal, unless the system be at all times replete with nutritive material. Tea, 3 Pavy says: "The phenomena produced when tea is consumed in a strong state, and to a hurtful extent, show that it is capable of acting in a powerful manner upon the nervous system. Nervous agitation, muscular tremors, a sense of prostration, and palpitation consti- tute effects often seen. It also possesses direct irrita- tant properties which lead to the production of abdomi- nal pains and nausea, and by the astringent matter it contains it diminishes the action of the bowels." Some authorities, indeed, go so far as to say that tea is a most potent destroyer of the digestive powers. There are probably some good results from drinking tea and coffee, viz. : the water used is purified by boil- ing, the liquid is generally taken in a warm state, and the warmth of the water tends to aid digestion. When milk or cream is used a valuable nutritive aliment is added which might not otherwise be taken ; and possi- bly, as one authority remarks, the use of tea or coffee in many cases furnishes a sufficient stinmlus to protect against indulgence in drinks of a still more injurious character. In other words, it is thought that dying of tea and coffee is more gradual than dying of whiskey and brandy. It is now generally conceded that the effect of the active principle in tea and coffee is more or less injuri- ous to the nervous system, and the tannin contained in them acts as a constant irritant to the stomach, present- ing a formidable obstacle to digestion. Slavery of body and mind to any unnatural stimulant is unfortunate, whether that stimulant be tea or coffee, alcoholic drinks or opium — all more or less beneficial as remedial agents and injurious as constant beverages. The feeling of health and strength which makes it a luxury to live, the exhilarating sense of self-command which makes work a pleasure and success a certainty, 4: Eemarhs about Foods. that liappy buoyancy of spirit which comes only from the taking of wholesome and assimilable food, cannot be properly appreciated by those who depend upon the ephemeral effects of stimulants. If a stimulating drink is desired, nothing is more wholesome than koumiss before it becomes too acid. Chocolate (alkathrepta made without vanilla) furnishes another nourishing, although hardly a stimulating, drink. Several substitutes for coffee have been tried, such as chiccory, roasted beans, pease, etc. Probably the best substitute is the cereal coffee prepared by the Health Food Company. It is made of the entire barley grain and the gluten of wheat. It is of nutritive value, and has a pleasant flavor resembling coffee. One tires of it, however, after a short time. The most pleasant and in- nocent of drinks for a constant beverage is one at the mention of which the reader may smile incredulously. But, let him first try it. I call it hot-water tea.* It consists simply of boiling water, with cream and sugar added, and is served in a teacup. The temperature of the boiling water should be properly reduced by the addition of the cold cream. As soon as hot-water tea is given a fair trial, it will be discovered that it is chiefly the warmth of the beverage that is desired ; also that, with a bit of imagination, hot-water tea will soon seem to possess all the flavor of the genuine English Break- fast or Ilyson, the Government Java or the Mocha in- fusions. Yet some persons are very difficile^ and have no imagination. In closing this article, I would add that green tea is more objectionable than black tea. It contains a third more tannin, and often a deleterious coloring matter * The author has since heard that this beverage is mentioned in the menus of some New York hotels as " cambric tea." Coffee, — Cocoa and Chocolate. 5 (Prussian blue mixed with gypsum and indigo). In the preparation of tea it should never be allowed to boil and steep. Boiling water should be poured upon the leaves, and the infusion used in a very few minutes afterwards. The tea leaves should never be used a second time. When tea is boiled, tannin is extracted in undue quan- tities, and the volatile osmazone is driven off.* Coffee. Coffee is heating and stimulating, and is serviceable in giving warmth to the body under exposure to cold. Taken in immoderate quantities it induces feverishness, tremor, palpitation, anxiety, and deranged vision. It contains less tannin than tea, and is probably less in- jurious to the digestive powers. Cocoa and Chocolate. Cocoa is the name of the seed or bean of the cacao- tree, ground into a powder, and moulded into cakes. When it is flavored with vanilla and mixed with sugar it is called chocolate. For the invalid, chocolate should be avoided on account of the vanilla. Cocoa or alka- threpta (a quite pure pharmaceutical preparation) should be substituted for it. Cocoa differs from tea and coffee in that it possesses little or no tannin, or other of their deleterious constituents. It contains a large percentage of fatty and albuminous (muscle-making) matter, with about four per cent, of phosphates, and is supplied with all the requisite elements of food for sustaining life. It possesses the stimulating effect of tea and coffee, though in a very mild degree. Pavy says: "Containing, as cocoa does, twice as much fatty matter as wheaten flour, with a notable quantity of starch, and an agreeable aro- * For further remarks about tea and coffee see Appendix, page 1 99. 6 Bemarhs about Foods. ma to tempt the palate, it must be a valuable aliment- ary material. Chocolate taken with milk and bread will suffice for a good repast." The nutritive elements of cocoa are so concentrated, and it is so rich in oily matter, that it should only be freely taken by conva- lescents and persons in active life. In Solis's " Con- quest of Mexico " it is said that the Spanish conquerors did not fail to record their appreciation of the flavor and nutritive qualities of chocolate, a single cup of it being enough, in their estimation, to sustain a man through a day's march. The cups were probably large. Chocolate is frequently adulterated with starch, suet, and coloring matters. Venetian red, umber, annatto, and, in some instances, the highly poisonous metallic salts of cinnabar and red lead are employed. The chocolate in common use is, therefore, of very uncertain composition. According to Dr. Ilassall the doubtful article composes half of what is sold in Eng- land. Iced Water and Iced Tea. The digestive agents are very sensitive to tempera- ture, the process of digestion being arrested by a tem- perature either too hot or too cold. This is practically tested hj experimenting with the receipts given in this book, where the pancreatic extract is employed. Water, to be refreshing and wholesome, should not, when drunk, be above the usual temperature of fresh spring or well water. The habitual use of iced water hy Americans is certainly attended with great injury; and undoubtedly this lavish use of it and hot breads is the chief cause of the national disease — dyspepsia. A waiter's first duty at an American hotel is to place be- fore each guest a goblet full of cracked ice, and the crevices are then tilled with water before he takes an order for something else to go with it. Iced Water and Iced Tea. 7 An acquaintance of the writer, in Missouri, who was blessed with a most -perhct physiqiie, drank an unusual quantity of iced water one hot summer's day, and died three days afterwards from paralysis of the stomach. Dio Lewis, in his work on " Our Digestion," writes as follows : "Dr. Beaumont makes an interesting statement illus- trating the influence of cold drinks upon the digestion. He placed his thermometer in St. Martin's stomach,* and found the temperature 99°. A gill of water at the temperature of 55° was introduced. As soon as it was diffused over the interior surface, the temperature was reduced to 70°, at which it stood a few minutes, and then began very slowly to rise. It was not until thirty minutes had elapsed, and all the water had been for some time absorbed, that the mercury regained its for- mer level of 99°. " When we reflect that in this case there was but a single gill of water and the temperature was 55°, which hardly deserves the name of cold, we shall not hesitate in pronouncing upon the habit of drinking the usual quantities of iced water with our meals, or that of con- suming, at the end of a full meal, a dish of ice-cream. When we remember that a temperature of 99° is abso- lutely required to carry forward the process of digestion, can we doubt, if a gill of water at the temperature of 55° produced such an effect upon St. Martin, a person of rarest vigor of health, what would be the influence of a * The author would explain, in reference to this apparently rash remark, that Alexis St. Martin was wounded in sucli a manner by a gunsliot thaJ the stomach was exposed ; the edges of the wound cicatrized, leaving a permanent fistulous opening leading into the cavity of the stomach. The orifice, usually closed, could be opened, and the process of digestion in- spected. Dr. Beaumont made a long series of experiments with St. Mar- tin, most valuable and interesting to the medical profession. 8 Remarks about Foods, pint of iced water on the stomach of a person of weak digestion." A more senseless custom still is to drink iced tea. The icing of tea serves to precipitate the tannin, and this is taken into the stomach as an insoluble substance. Spieituous Liquoes. As medicinal agents I have nothing to say against alcoholic drinks. Strychnine, arsenic, opium, bella- donna, and perhaps even calomel, as medicines, may be serviceable also, when prescribed in proper quantities by competent physicians. Regarding the action and effects of alcohol when taken habitually, I have quoted from Professor You- mans* and others. (See Appendix, page 205.) I will only introduce here the theory of an able phy- sician who has for many years been at the head of an inebriate asylum in Connecticut. He says that in pro- ducing drunkards a fault equal to and possibly greater than the dram-shop influence exists, and that is the cus- tom of habitually serving highly seasoned food at the home table. This creates the appetite for stronger stim- ulants, which grows and becomes morbid by continued indulgence. The dumb animals, he says, live on simple diet, without condiments, and continue to take the same simple food throughout life that was taken in youth. A pickled carrot, a peppered clover, spiced cornmeal, or a tobacco leaf would be spurned by an intelligent -eyed ox, as an insult to his natural under- standing. The sentiments of any other animal (except the human species) would be the same on the sub- ject. Result — scarcely any stomachic disorders among animals. ♦ * ' Household Science. " Malt Extract. 9 The mouth or taste is the heaven-given sentinel to guard that royal domain, the stomach. Give to a young child a condiment and the sentinel rejects it, until by continued solicitation, and by habit, the taste becomes perverted. The stomach gradually acquires an unnat- ural and unhealthy desire, the same desire that in a strong degree can only be satisfied with fiery liquors. Pepper, Dr. Foote considers the most pernicious of the spices — perhaps because it is more generally used. Tea and coffee are also rejected from his dietetical repertoire; in fact, he would discard all articles which tend to ex- cite irritation or create unnatural stimulus. For the object of mere gustatory pleasure, the doctor insists that the man with healthy appetite enjoys more a simple crust of bread than the epicure with inflamed and calloused stomach can his fiery ragout. In other words, what begins with spice, pickles, etc., ends with whiskey. The man with a healthy stomach will no more crave whiskey than the ox will crave to- bacco. In the treatment of inebriates, besides the gen- eral remedies administered for febrile conditions, his chief point is to so regulate the diet that the stomach will gradually become accustomed again to simple food, in the same manner that it became accustomed to the stimulating food. When this point is reached the pa- tient is considered cured. Malt Extract. Several preparations of malt extract are offered which are valuable in an alimentary point of view, for aiding in the digestion of starch or farinaceous foods. Malt is made by allowing barley to germinate, and the germination is arrested at a certain temperature. As a result a peculiar nitrogenous principle called dias- tase is developed, which has the power of converting 1* 10 Remarks about Foods. starch into dextrine and sugar. An infusion of malted barley is reduced to a syrupy consistency, by a low tem- perature, without impairing the fermenting power of the diastase, and this is called malt extract. When the digestive powers are weak the extract is often valuable, although it should be taken with farina- ceous food, or just after. The malt extract is also indicated when the moutli is dry, denoting feeble action of the salivary glands. Dr. Roberts suggests that the extract should be spread upon bread and butter, or used to sweeten puddings and gruels. Milk. The value of milk as a food cannot be exaggerated. It is a complete diet in itself, containing in proper pro- portion everything necessary for sustaining life. In a sanitary point of view the world would be bet- ter off if a larger proportion of milk were taken for daily food, and the amount of animal food and of tea and coffee were correspondingly reduced. Milk is not only nourishing, but stimulating ; and the natural stim- ulus resulting from assimilable food is the only health- ful and desirable one. Many diseases, such as rheumatism, dyspepsia, gas- tralgia, chronic diarrhoea, consumption, etc., are relieved or cured by a diet composed partly or entirely of milk. The milk treatment, as practised in different parts of Europe, has been very successful. In perfect health, good pure milk is almost always digestible. There are a few with whom it disagrees. The addition of lime-water will correct it for persons inclined to acidity of the stomach. Skimmed milk will be more beneficial to those who require less fat. When milk is found to be indigestible the difficulty is gener- ally obviated by taking it mixed with starch or grain Millc, -11 foods — for instance, with rice, porridge, bread, etc. ; or it can be boiled and thiclcened with a little barley flour, etc. The reason is explained by Dr. Eustace Smith, page 216. It is preferable to give milk to diabetics in the form of koumiss, which contains no sugar. In typhoid fever it should be either administered peptonized or in the form of fresh koumiss. This pre- vents the formation of curd, which is irritating to the bowels in that disease. Milk in its acid state and buttermilk are nourishing and beneficial in febrile conditions. Cows' milk is not always of uniform quality. That of the Alderney cow yields the largest proportion of butter. The feeding, too, influences the quality of milk ; for instance, with dry food, the milk is relatively richer in solids, and with good grass it abounds in fat. Water constitutes nine tenths of milk; tli^^remainder consists of albuminoid or the muscle-building principle, caseine (the curd which is used in making cheese), the carbonates or heat-producing principle (the butter and sugar). Then there is some mineral matter — the phos- phates. The sugar is called lactine, and by fermenta- tion or souring it is converted into lactic acid. When the ''milk cure" is resorted to, the patient should gradually leave off his ordinary mixed diet until he reaches an exclusively milk diet. Mitchell formulates his method of administering a milk diet as follows : "My own rule, founded on considerable experience, is this : Dating from the time when the patient begins to take milk alone, I wish three weeks to elapse before anything be used save milk. After the first week of the period I direct that the milk be taken in just as large amount as the person desires, but not allowing it 12 Bemarlcs about Foods. to fall below a limit which, for me, is determined in each case by his ceasing to lose weight. Twenty-one days of absolute milk diet having passed, with such exception as I shall presently mention, I now give a thin slice of stale bread, thrice a day. After another week I allow rice once a day, about two tablespoonfuls, or a little ar- rowroot, or both. At the fifth week I give a chop once a day ; and after the sixth week I expect the patient to return gradually to a diet which should consist largely of milk for some months." Dr. Barthelow's rule is gradually to add other diet, after the cessation of symptoms for which the milk treatment was instituted. Milk and animal food, or milk and acid food, should not be taken together. Persons desiring to take a par- tial milk diet can take milk and farinaceous food for breakfast and for lunch or tea, and omit it at dinner, which may be a meal of meat and vegetables. Milk should be taken by the invalid slightly warm. No doubt the natural warmth of the milk when fresh from the cow is the best. Dr. Dobell, in his work, " Diet and Kegimen," says : ^'Now the nearest approach to a pancreatic emulsion is what may be called nascent milk, by which I mean milk just secreted — milk that flows from the mammary glands as it is formed. ... In this the emulsification is finest and most perfect, but every minute that elapses after the milk is secreted deteriorates this perfection of emulsification, nntil, as we know, when allowed to cool, the cream separates from the water of the milk, etc." Milk can be kept fresh for a long time if placed in well-scalded and perfectly clean glass jars, which can be hermetically sealed by drawing patent wire clasps over the glass tops. On a journey to Europe some acquaintances took Buttermilk, — ^Ylley. — Animal Foods. 13 milk and cream in glass jars, in the way described. The last day of the ocean voyage it seemed as fresh as when leaving New York. It was, of course, kept in the ice-closet. Glass jars and bottles are now in general use at the best dairies in New York. BUTTEKMILK. Buttermilk contains, the same as skimmed milk, the full nourishment of the milk without the fat; how- ever, it retains a very small proportion of fat, less than skimmed milk. It is very beneficial in some weak con- ditions of the stomach (dyspepsia, fever, etc.). Dr. Ballot, of Kotterdam, has had much to say about the value of buttermilk in the treatment of infants for summer complaint, cholera infantum, etc. Koumiss, or peptonized milk, might be found equally efficacious, and possibly preferable, in many cases. Whey. Whey is almost without nutritive value. As a drink in febrile or inflammatory conditions it is refreshing and often beneficial. It is sometimes recommended to per- sons who find difficulty in retaining food in the stomach. However, in such cases, koumiss would probably be of greater value. Animal Foods. Of all the animal foods, beef is the most important. It is very digestible, and because of its fine texture and richness in red-blood juices, it furnishes more nutriment in proportion to weight than any other meat. Like bread, it never palls on the appetite. The quality of beef de- pends mucli on the age and manner of feeding the ox. To be at perfection the animal should be four years old, not worked, and partly corn-fed. 14 Remarks about Foods. Mutton is generally more digestible than beef, it and venison being regarded as the most digestible of all the meats. It is popularly supposed to be a lighter food than beef, the latter being adapted to physical exercise, while mutton is rather a food for persons of sedentary habits, and for invalids. Dr. Smith, in an interesting work on "Foods," says that Kean suited the kind of meat which he ate to the part which he was about to play, and selected mutton for lovers, beef for murderers, and pork for tyrants. Mutton broth has less nutritive value than beef broth. Venison. When sufficiently hung and tender, veni- son outranks all meats in point of digestibility. It is also palatable and highly nutritious. Veal and Lamb. J^lthough the flesh of young animals is more tender than that of old, it is less digestible and less nutritious. The tissues of young animals are more gelatinous than those of the adult, the latter containing more of fibrine and of the flavoring principle, omazone. Pork. Unless it be a small, thin slice of breakfast-ba- con taken in the way of an appetizer, pork should be ex- cluded altogether from the invaliv^ 6 dietary. Although it is a convenient and inexpensive meat and an appetiz- ing one for man}-, and perhaps an unobjectionable one for laboring men, yet, on account of the uncertain feed- ing of the animal, and the hardness of its muscular fibre, it is doubtful whether pork should be used at all by peo- ple of sedentary habits. Lard and pork have seemed indispensable for frying purposes, and for larding and seasoning. It must be tak- en on trust, however. In the Southern States many are using cotton-seed oil, which has quite the flavor of olive oil, for cooking — using it in place of lard for everything for which lard is used. It is now sold in all the large cities, and in time will undoubtedly be very generally used. Animal Foods. 15 The table inserted below, giving the relative nutritive and other values of the five animal foods principally used, is taken from Dr. Bellow's " Philosophy of Eating." In one hundred parts are — Mineral matter, Fibrin and albumen, or food for the or food for muscles Fat, or food brain, etc. and tissues. for heat. Water. Veal 4.5 16.5 16.5 62.5 Beef 5.0 15.0 30.0 50.0 Mutton 3.5 12.5 40.0 44.0 Lamb 3.5 12.0 34.0 50.5 Pork 1.5 10.0 50.0 38.5 Undoubtedly too much meat is generally eaten by persons of sedentary habits, resulting in dyspepsia, gout, etc. In cold weather, and with much physical exercise, it can be freely taken, but in temperate or warm weather a greater proportion of cereal food would improve the general health. An analysis of the two kinds of food shows a similar composition. The muscle-making ele- ments in beef, the fibrine and albumen, correspond with the muscle-making elements in wheat — gluten and albu- men ; and they so a^ree in chemical composition as to be considered mere niodifications of the same substance, and, being dried, contain principally the same elements in the same proportions. Thus the popular idea that grain food is not so strong and nourishing as animal food is erroneous. The meat of animals is nitrogenous and therefore muscle-building. So are the grains nitrogenous and muscle-building. Dr. Kadcliffe, in an interesting article in the Popular Science Monthly^ says : " It is impossible to distinguish between the albuminose or peptone into which fibrine is resolved in the process of digestion and the albuminose or pep- tone into which albumen or caseine or gluten or legu- mine is resolved in this process. It is apparently of little or no moment whether these various nitrosrenous arti- 16 Remarks about Foods, cles of food are derived from the world of animal life or from the world of vegetable life. " You must allow that an herbivorous animal is not less vigorous than a carnivorous animal; and certainly you would find it difiicult to show that man, who can live and thrive under the most dissimilar circumstances, upon almost any kind of food, is vigorous in proportion to the amount of meat he contrives to consume." Meats should not be served to invalids cooked a sec- ond time. The flavoring principle, osmazone, is dissi- pated after the first cooking, and the meat must depend upon outside seasonings for flavor. The tissues are also less tender. Salted Meats. On account of the toughness of fibre resulting from the curing process, these meats are difficult of digestion, and should never be used in the sick-room. Fish. Fish is a nourishing and digestible food for conva- lescents if served quite fresh and broiled or boiled. It affords a pleasant change of food about once a week. Oysters. Oysters are nutritious and generally well-borne by delicate stomachs. Dr. William Roberts, in his work " On the Digestive Ferments," advances an interesting theory in relation to oysters as a food. He claims that the effect of cooking is to diminish their digestibility, which would make oysters the exception in this respect among the articles that furnish albuminoid matter. He explains his reasons by saying that the fawn-colored part of the oyster, containing about half its substance, is its liver, composed partly of glycogen. Associated with this, but withheld from actual contact with it dur- Oysters, 17 ing life is its appropriate digestive ferment — diastase. Mastication mixes these constituents and they are di- gested without other aid. Cooking destroys the digest- ing properties of the diastase, and then the oyster has to be digested like other food — by the eater's own di- gestive power. Other authorities question and doubt Dr. Roberts' theory. The excessive use of condiments — salt, pepper, lemon-juice, and vinegar — more especially pepper, com- bined with imperfect mastication, may possibly impair the wholesomeness of raw oysters to many persons.''^ The hard portion, or muscle, which fastens the oyster to the shell should be removed in all cases when served for weak stomachs. The author would recommend oyster soup, properly prepared (the oysters slightly cooked), as the best mode of administering oysters to an invalid. The flavor of the juice and the extra nourishment furnished by the cream or milk used, together with the advantage which foods served warm afford to digestion, would be good reasons for preferring oyster stews or soups. Dr. Bellows, in *' The Philosophy of Eating," speak- ing of oysters, says : " They have not, as food, the mus- cle-making elements of the Crustacea or other active fish ; and although their chemical composition indicates phosphatic salts, they are mostly salts of lime, which go to form the shell and to make bone rather than a food for the brain and nervous system. Oysters, therefore, are very unsatisfactory food for laboring men, but will do for the sedentary and for a supper to sleep on. They contain but 7|- per cent, of solid matter, including fibrin, albumen, gelatine, mucus, and osmazone; and * Whatever the cause, the fact remains that many persons find raw oys- ters quite indigestible. 18 Remarhs about Foods. much of that is gelatine, which affords no nourishment, while butcher's meat contains on an average 25 per cent., and the poorest fishes contain 14 per cent., of pure nitrates. The nitrates in oysters are in the form of al- bumen, like the white of an egg ; they are, therefore, more easily digested in a raw state than when cooked, but when stewed are not indigestible." Fat. We have heretofore too little appreciated the impor- tance of fat in our dietaries. Without knowing why, fat has generally been considered imwholesome, tending to produce biliousness, corpulence, and heat, besides being a general clog and burden in all digestive pro- cesses. Oil has been avoided ; butter on bread has been scraped down to the smallest quantity, and the fat of meat has been sedulously trimmed. Fat is as necessary to the system as the muscle-mak- ing properties of foods. It not only serves to produce heat, but has an essential share in the tissue-making process. It does not produce the material, but influ- ences the assimilation of the other principles of food by well-established processes. Although it is essential to the formation of every structure in the body, it is an especially essential constituent of the brain and ner- vous system. A diet with a deficiency of fat tends to produce diseased conditions in the direction of scrofula and consumption. Cod-liver oil is not properly a med- icine ; it is a fatty diet given with a view of supplying what is supposed to be lacking in the system. It is af- firmed that if one takes and assimilates a sufiicient quantity^ of fat in the ordinary diet, one is not liable to have consumption or nervous diseases. In foods supplying all the necessary elements for sustaining life, fat constitutes a considerable proportion Fat. 19 — for instance, milk, eggs, etc. The yolk of the Qgg is about one third fat. Dr. Radcliffe says, "There is no essential difference as to the chemical composition between vegetable albu- men and fibrine, and leguniine and oily matters, and animal albumen and fibrine, and caseine and oily mat- ters; there is no perceptible difference in the albumi- nose or peptone into whicli the vegetable and animal nitrogenous substances are alike transformed in tlie pro- cess of digestion ; there is no difference in the way in which the vegetable and animal oily matters are emul- sified and then taken up directly into the general circu- lation of the blood." Another writer says : " If the inhabitants of the Arctic regions gorge themselves with animal fat, those of warm countries take the same thing in vegetable oils. In most warm climates olive-oil is taken, and in India ghee, with no inconvenience to digestion and with unmistakable benefit." An interesting article on the subject of fats, by Dr. Radcliffe, was published in the Popular Science Monthly (March, 1883). It is in the form of a dialogue between a physician and a young man who had eaten a breakfast of lean meat and toast in anticipation of a hard day's rowing. The physician explains to the young man his mistake, and shows that, as force-producing agents, fat and oil are as necessary as fibrine or albumen. He also says : " I find that very many persons suffer- ing from various chronic disorders of the nervous sys- tem have abstained from the fatty and oily articles of food, and that their state is almost invariably very much changed for the better when induced to take what they have avoided." Because we have, perhaps, been mistaken in taking too little fat in the past, it is not recommended that too large a quantity be taken in the future. 20 Remarks about Foods. Pavy says the supply ought not to be less, even with inactivity, than one ounce daily, and that about two and a half ounces will constitute the average amount in the dietaries recommended for working people. Fresh milk furnishes fat in proper proportions. Cream and butter furnish the most assimilable fat. Bread generously buttered (not too much so, however), meat with streaks of fat, and the oil dressing on salads will ordinarily afford a sufficient supply. Pork fat is the most objectionable of the fats to persons of seden- tary habits. Dobell says : " When it is necessary, for any special object,* to reduce the quantity of carbon taken in the aliments, this can more safely be done by diminishing the saccharine, amylaceous (sugar and starch) matters, than the fat." Eggs. Eggs contain all that is required for the building and maintenance of the body. They are, therefore, a most invaluable article of food. The white is almost pure albumen and water, and the yolk contains the fat and other necessary constituents. They are more easily digested when taken raw or slightly cooked, as described for poached eggs (cooked in water below the boiling- point). Continued boiling, or cooking in any manner, toughens the albumen and renders it difficult of diges- tion. Indeed, a valuable cement is made by thickening the white of egg with powdered quicklime, and heating it. The whole egg can be made hard and tough enough by heating to become a cement of itself. ElCE. Rice is very rich in starch, and poor in fat and al- buminous matter. It contains less than half the muscle- * For instance, to reduce corpulency. — Ed. Corn-starch, Arrow-root^ Sago, Tapioca, etc. 21 supporting elements of wheat, and only one fourth as much of those going to support the brain and nerves. Kice-eaters ure, therefore, feeble and indolent. The de- ficiencies, however, can be supplied by cooking it with milk or eggs. It is very digestible, requiring only little more than an hour for the process. In weak conditions of the stomach and bowels it is valuable. Rice-water, a thin mucilage, is a drink often administered with benefit in fevers and in inflammation of the bowels. CORN-STAKCII AND AeEOW-EOOT. Corn -starch, and arrow -root, composed chiefly of starch, are inadequate to sustain life without the addi- tion of milk or other nutritive substances. Sago and Tapioca. These are also starch foods, and they rank very low in an alimentary point of view. They are chiefly used as pleasant additions to custard puddings, and as a thickening for soups. Beans and Pease. These are rich in nutritious material. Their muscle- making element is not gluten, as in the grains, but caseine, as in cheese, a substance not so easily digested as gluten, and therefore only adapted to strong and ac- tive persons, with good powers of digestion. Gelatine. Jellies and blanc-mange made with gelatine are very appetizing, but cannot be relied on as furnisliing nourishment. Calves' -foot jelly was once regarded as a valuable dish in the sick-room. It is a very pleas- ant vehicle for serving wine or milk ; but, beyond this. 22 Remarhs about Foods. it is now believed to be valueless by all the best authori- ties. Several years ago a committee was appointed by the French Academy of Sciences to ascertain the die- tetical value of gelatine. This was on account of tlie fact that gelatinous extract of bones was being fed to the inmates of hospitals with apparently deleterious re- sults. The commission, with Magentie at its head, re- ported gelatine to be substantially w^orthless as a diet. Tomatoes. The tomato, according to Dio Lewis, is a medicinal vegetable containing some amount of calomel — enough to produce a degree of salivation if used too freely. He thinks the tomato should be used moderately in cooked form, as a sauce, etc. He has known, in his practice, of patients suffering with sore mouths, tender and bleeding gums, with loose teeth, and with piles, produced by the immoderate use of tomatoes. However wholesome a certain amount of cooked fresh tomatoes may be, the physicians generally de- nounce the use of them when put up in tin cans. The tendency of the acid of the vegetable is to corrode the tin, and thereby, to some degree, poison the tomatoes. FpwUits — Grapes, Bananas, etc. Fruits are cooling, aperient, and nutritious, and are al- most as necessary to a healthful dietary as the grains, especially in warm climates. They cool and refresh us in summer, supplying grateful acids and fluids. They are grown on all inhabitable parts of the earth, and many of them can be kept in all seasons. Different varieties of fruits follow each other in close succession during the season of growth, the acid fruits coming gen- erally in the spring, when the system needs anti-bilious food, after the winter dietary. Fruits. 23 Next to the apple, the king of fruits, the grape is probably the most valuable in our climate. Its bene- ficial action seems almost medicinal. After eating the grape regularly for some time, when it is fresh picked from the vine and redolent of the sun, general exhilara- tion is produced ; the blood seems richer and a healthy glow of color comes to the cheeks. Besides the tonic effect, the grape contains much nourishment. They have in France, Switzerland, and Germany w^hat are called grape-cures, where persons suffering from dyspepsia, scrofula, gout, and cutaneous diseases are treated during the grape season with much success. Patients eat the grapes to repletion several times a day, and at regular intervals, generally taking nothing with them but bread-and-butter and water. Dr. Barthelow says, however : " The influence of change of air, of scen- ery, and of the hygienic rules enforced at these resorts sliould not be ignored in an estimate of the value of the method." Hot-house grapes, and the California grapes after transportation to the Eastern States, will not an- swer the purpose, nor take the place of the Isabella, Concord, Catawba, and other varieties grown in the open air, fully ripe and fresh from the vine. Another nutritive fruit is the banana. It contains a large percentage of starch and sugar, and enough nitrog- enous matter to make it of alimentary value. It is similar in composition to the potato. In some tropical countries it is much used as a food. On a plantation in Cuba the owner took us to see the negroes prepare their dinner. A huge iron pot, hanging over burning fagots, was filled with a combination of materials mak- ing a sort of ragout. The chief ingredient, they told us, was the banana. For invalids, berries with hard seeds — strawberries, raspberries, etc. — are often indigestible. Many of our 24: Remarks about Foods. marketable strawberries are so very acid and devoid of flavor, that they, especially, cannot be recommended to invalids. Stewed fruits (compotes) are very wholesome and beneficial for almost any one. They should be served in some form every day, provided a laxative diet is not at the time objectionable. When oranges, and they are especially excellent in all febrile conditions, are administered to invalids, they should be quite sweet. There seem to be as many varieties of oranges as of apples. Although a juicy, crisp, moderately sweet, and well-ripened apple is the most wholesome and digestible of fruits, there are ap- ples which can defy the ordinary stomach, and which set the teeth on edge to even think about ; so it is with some oranges, which are only fit for orangeade. The sweet, juicy, thin-skinned, little Florida orange, and the more rugged skinned, though juicy and sweet, Havana ornnge can be judiciously given to almost any invalid, while their more common and acrid relatives should be as carefully avoided. Baked apples served with cream and sugar are a standard dish for the sick-room. They are digestible, laxative, and very wholesome. The dried fruits, especially the California dried pears and the white apple-chips, are very refreshing and safe, and should be more used when fresh fruits cannot be obtained. If fruits are not quite ripe, or do not agree with one, cooking them with sugar increases their digestibility. Acid fruits put up in tin cans are exceedingly doubt- ful. If they taste of the tin, they are not at all doubt- ful. Avoid them. Probably, in the future, tomatoes and acid fruits will be generally put up in glass jars, if something else less breakable than glass, and without Sea-moss Farine and Sea Moss. 25 the objections to tin, cannot be found. Here is an op- portunity for some inventor. Sea-Moss Fakine and Sea Moss. An article was sold several years ago, at all the gro- cers, called sea -moss farine. It was a most excellent preparation, especially valuable for invalids, and could be made into various blanc-manges and puddings, ac- cording to directions accompanying the packages. I have tried in vain to obtain it within the last two or three years, and it seems to be out of market. I hope very much to see it in market again, as it is an especial- ly valuable health-food. Sea moss is very nutritious, exceedingly digestible and wholesome, and can be used to advantage for al- most any invalid. Its flavor takes one to the sea-shore, it matters not how far away. The blanc-manges made from the Irish and Iceland mosses are especially good. 2 THE NEW HEALTH- FOODS AKB OTHER GRAIN PREPARATIONS. The new methods of preparing cereals by the Healtli- food Company of New York have produced the most gratifying results. These foods are of inestimable val- ue to the invalid. Indeed, they constitute a pleasant and wholesome diet for any one. Tlieir use tends to preserve health, and preservation is far pleasanter than restoration. The manufacture of foods after methods based on careful scientific investigation, specially adapted to the needs of different individuals and diseases — for instance, foods for the corpulent, or the excessively lean, for in- fants, for diabetics and dyspeptics, and for persons gen- erally debilitated, ^vhere serviceable treatment must be chiefly dietetic, is of especial value. Heretofore in the treatment of diabetes, where the patient is obliged to eschew all foods containing starch or sugar, thereby depriving him of bread and all grain preparations, the physician has had much embarrassment. The "Diabetic Food," consisting of gluten, which is nutritious and very digestible, is a boon to these suf- ferers. It is known that heretofore in milling wheat the most nutritive portion of the grain, the gluten, lying next to the hull, was removed. The white flour, mak- ing bread quite beautiful in appearance, is chiefly com- posed of starch, and is incapable of sustaining life. A distinguished physician said, " The intelligent Prepared Articles of Food. 27 farmer knows liow to feed his land, his horses, his cat- tle, and his pigs ; but not how to feed his children. The fine flour, containing neither food for brain nor muscle, he gives to his children, and the whole grain or the bran and coarser part, containing food for brain and muscle, he gives to his pigs." Formerly, in the preparation of Graham flour and cracked wheat, although the full nutriment of the grain was preserved, the hull, a woody, fibrous skin, was re- tained. This proved to be irritating to some delicate stomachs, although authorities say that it serves a good purpose for vigorous persons, viz., of promoting by a healthy irritation the secretions and motion of the bowels. The Health-food Company manufacture, besides flour with its full richness of gluten, coarser preparations of the cereals, such as granulated wheat, oats, barley, corn, etc., with the silicious skin removed. Some of the articles prepared by this company, which may be commended as deserving, are : The CoLD-BLAST Whole Wheat Flouk — represented to contain the full nutrition of the grain. Pearled Wheat. — The whole grains of best wheat denuded of their bran coats. Granulated Wheat (Coarse) — which takes the place of the ordinary w beaten grits or cracked wheat, is also prepared without the bran coats. The last two prepa- rations make an especially palatable dish, prepared ac- cording to the Vienna Bakery receipt given on page 128. Granulated Wheat (Fine) — takes the place of Gra- liam flour. This flour can be employed in the various 28 The New Health-foods, etc. ways in which Graham flour is used, viz., for making bread, crackers, mush, pancakes, croquettes, puddings, thickenings for soups, sauces, etc. This company prepares also White Wheat Glutei, a concentrated, digestible, and nutritious food. Being free from starch, it is recommended to those suffering from dyspepsia, diabetes, and Eright's disease, and also as an anti-fat diet. It was not found to be very palatable by the author. It can be made into bread "gems," mush, pancakes, puddings, etc. If some starch be unobjectionable, the gluten is much pleasanter to tlie taste "wlien mixed with flour, rice, or barley. Geanulated Baeley. — Bellows says of barley : " This cereal compares well with wheat in nutritive elements, but does not form bread ; is used for making barley- cakes, which are valuable for persons inclined to con- stipation, containing, as it does, more of waste which is the natural stimulant of the bowels. Barley is peculiar also for its richness in phosphates, having more than twice the amount contained in wheat; and therefore might be made useful to literary men of sedative hab- its, adapted as it is both to promote the action of the brain and bowels." The pearl barley ordinarily used in soups is a grain that does not dissolve in the cooking process, and is quite unfit to be used in the sick-room. The " Granulated Barley " of the Health-food Com- pany dissolves as easily as rice. It is a valuable prepa- ration and can be used to great advantage in a variety of puddings, the best being a souffle pudding (page 192) ; also in pancakes, gruel, thickening for soups, blanc- mange, etc. Prepared Ai'tieles of Food. 29 The best preparation I have seen for making barley gruel (one of the most valuable of gruels) is Kobinson's barley flour. It is manufactured in England, but is very generally sold here by the druggists. It is exceed- ingly palatable and valuable for invalids. Peaeled Oats. — Good for making porridge ; also the Geanulated Oats, admirable for puddings, gruels, etc., and the Oat Flour, especially good for gruels. These are all articles which can be used beneficially in many different ways. " Cekeal Coffee" — made of barley and wheat glu- ten parched. It is a good substitute for tea and coffee. It has some of the coffee flavor and is without more stimulant than is imparted by any nourishing drink. Among other of the health -food preparations are crackers made of the cold -blast flour, gluten, oats, granulated wheat, etc. The manufacturers of what is known as the new patent - process flour claim that it also contains the full gluten of the grain. The flour is necessarily of a creamy color, gluten being light brown in appearance. This flour can be obtained of grocers in all of the large cities. If the flour sold for the "new-process" flour is purely white, it is not genuine. If the necessary amount of gluten is retained it must color it to some extent, indeed, to the extent of giving it a decidedly creamy hue. There are agencies in the large cities for cereal foods (oatmeal, barley, groats, hominy, cornmeal, etc.) pre- pared at Akron, Ohio, which are most excellent. The Graham flour from this source is especially fine. 30 The New Health-foods^ etc. The best oatmeal which can be obtained is the im- ported Irish oatmeal. It can be purchased of the first- class grocers in New York, but the author has not been able to find it elsewhere. It is more palatable than the Scotch or American oatmeal, the grain being much larger. The concentrated foods so industriously advertised are not recommended by the authorities. A certain amount of bulk is necessary, and the less nutritive por- tions of food perform a very necessary function in the process of digestion. KOUMISS. This nutritions beverage, made of fermented milk, lias been hitherto comparatively unknown in our coun- try. It has been used for centuries in Tartary and in Asiatic Russia. It is there chiefly made of mares' milk (see Appendix). Mares' milk differs from cows' milk, the former possessing (according to Pavy) a smaller amount of nitrogenous matter and butter, and a much larger amount of sugar. By adding sugar to cows' milk a koumiss may be obtained superior in its nutri- tive properties to that made of mares' milk. Koumiss is of incalculable value for almost all inva- lids, containing the full nutriment of milk and the stimulating qualities of wines and liquors without any ill-effects. Dr. Dobell, of London, in his valuable work on " Diet and Regimen," says: "Koumiss, when properly pre- pared, is a highly refreshing, effervescent preparation of milk obtained by a natural process of fermentation, in which the albumen and caseine are partly digested, while its abundance of free carbonic acid makes it sedative to the most irritable stomach, so that it has succeeded in numerous cases, recorded by medical practitioners, where stimulants, beef -tea, and rectal enemata, aided by the most varied pharmacopoeial treatment, had alike failed. " Its chief qualities are : "(a.) Its agreeable, refreshing, and highly digestible character. 32 Koumiss. "(^.) Its attested and rare powers of nutrition, in the most desperate cases of emaciation, chronic vomit- ing, dyspepsia, gastric pain, and irritability, and of debility following acute or accompanying chronic dis- eases. "((?.) The avidity and pleasure with which it is drank by children, women, and men, in health and disease, and in its remarkable success in allaying vomiting and gas- tralgia, and in restoring the nutrition." Dr.Eoberts Barthelow, in his " Materia Medica," says : "Koumiss differs from whey in containing the nutritive constituents of milk, and from milk itself in the impor- tant respect that it is, in addition, an effervescing, alco- holic fluid. . . . The tolerance of the stomach to koumiss is remarkable, even in cases of gastralgia. It improves the appetite, and excites the action of the kidneys. The patients experience a pleasing exhilaration, due proba- bly to the combined action of the carbonic acid and the alcohol. It also causes somnolence during the da}^ and favors sleep at night, without leaving any after head- ache. Its most important action is the increase of the body nutrition. . . . Koumiss possesses great value in the treatment of consumption, chronic bronchitis, the low stages of fever, the stage of convalescence from acute diseases — in fact, in all adynamic states in which the combined effect of alcohol and nutrients may be de- sirable." Jaqielsky says that he has had patients gain as much as ten pounds a month, when no other food was taken. Koumiss, in its administration, may be given like milk or beer. In extreme cases of feebleness of diges- tion, this being the only food, a glassful every two hours would be sufficient. With increased facility of diges- tion and assimilation from a quart to a gallon a day may be taken. When served with other food, a glass- Merits of Koumiss. 33 fill can be drank before or after a meal as preferred. It is a food in itself — a solid food, like milk, containing all the elements or requisites of nutrition. The caseine of milk turns into curd in the stomach, and leaves a solid residue. It is estimated that each quart of kou- miss contains four ounces of solid food. After such a richesse of authority (and there is much more before me) it would seem unnecessary to mention that I have become enthusiastic as to the merits of koumiss, after having seen its almost miraculous effects upon a member of our own family. In this case no food whatever seemed assimilable until koumiss was prescribed. This led me to investigate and experiment with the making of koumiss with results which I hope will prove as satisfactory to others as myself. There are two kinds of koumiss — one quite acid, like that generally sold at pharmacies in the large cities ; the imported koumiss is also quite acid. The venders of this koumiss say that it improves with age, that two or three years old being considered especially good. This acid koumiss would be indicated in cases of fever, rlieu- matism, etc., when acid drinks, such as buttermilk, lem- onade, etc., are relished and required. For a more ordinary and general drink the sweet koumiss (perhaps it can hardly be called sweet, as the flavor is pungent, not unlike beer), made as imperfectly indicated in many of the medical works is preferable. This is at its best from four days to a month old. In my own experience, there were several days when our invalid craved something acid. Not having the proper acid koumiss at hand, it was found that some koumiss which had curdled and soured (this comes from the bot- tle as effervescent as that which has not curdled), agreed with her perfectly when buttermilk proved indigestible. After two or three days the appetite no longer called 2* 34 Koumiss. for acid, and the sweet koumiss was more assimilable as well as better relished.* When it is desired to give koumiss to babies, they can either suck it from the end of the champagne-tap, the screw being turned very slightly, or a little koumiss can be drawn into a pitcher and poured from one pitcher to another until most of the gas has escaped. The infant can then drink it as milk. To Make Koumiss. The making of koumiss is very simple. It requires perfectly fresh milk, good yeast, a little sugar, strong bottles (those used for champagne, beer, etc.), a corking- machine (price, fifty cents), a little tuition in the profes- sional manner of tying corks in bottles, a thermometer, a funnel, a cold, dark place in a cellar answering the purpose of a beer cave, and voila tout — not quite all though, for if one's life or the roof of the house is re- garded of value, a bottle of koumiss should not be opened without a champagne-tap. Fill a quart bottle about three quarters full of fresh milk, and add a tablespoonful of fresh (brewers') lager- beer yeast, and a tablespoonful of sugar-syrup (the syrup is made allowing three lumps of sugar — little squares of loaf sugar — or a tablespoonful of ordinary white sugar, for each quart of milk; enough water to cover the sugar is added, and it is boiled a couple of minutes to make the syrup, not allowing it to candy) ; shake the bottle well for a full minute, to thoroughly mix all the ingre- dients, then fill it to within two or three inches of the top ; shake again, to get all well-mixed. Cork it with a * The author, since writing this, has had occasion to know of several other invalids wiio have tried koumiss. Tlie very acid koumiss usually sold by druggists was quite unsatisfactory, excepting for temporary use for fever, whereas the fresh koumiss was marvellously successful. Bottling Koumiss. 35 cork a third of a size larger than the mouth of the bottle. The corks must have been previously soaked for two or three hours, iinmersed in hot water over a warm stove, when they become soft; they are then pushed through the corking-macliine (see cut) with a hammer, or, better, a wooden mallet; quite heavy and vigorous blows of the mallet on the handle of the machine will not break the bottle, as one might suppose. The corks are then tied. When this operation is all completed, put the bottles in a standing position in an even (or as nearly so as possible) temperature of 52° Fahr.,"^ where they should remain for two and a half days. Some closed closet or cellar in w^inter or a refrigerator in summer will generally afford this temperature. This slow fermenta- tion is desirable. At the end of the two days to two days and a half, place the bottles on their sides and on the stone-floor of the darkest and coolest place in the cellar — or, in default of such place, in a refrigera- ^ ^ tor. Many consider koumiss at its "-^ best when it is five or six days old, but it can be kept indefinitely if kept in a temperature not above 52°. The colder it is kept without freezing the better. The brewers' lager- beer yeast is decidedly the best for making what I call the sweet koumiss, imparting to it a beer flavor. As the * My first instructions were to leave the koumiss at this stage in a tem- perature of 62° for the two and a half days, but I have found, by experi- menting, that a temperature as low as 52° produces even better results. .-^ CORK MACHINE. 36 Koumiss. koumiss is drawn it should appear in the glass like thick whipped cream. The koumiss will become acid by long standing, or by placing it in a higher temperature. Yery good koumiss can also be made with Fleisch- man's Compressed Yeast. A fifth of a two-cent cake of this yeast to a quart of milk is the proper proportion. It should be well-dissolved before it is added to the milk. The proportion of sugar or syrup is the same as when the other yeast is used. If the milk is quite fresh and sweet, and the bottles are perfectly clean and free from acid, there is little dan- ger of the koumiss curdling. If it should -become cur- dled, it can be used for cooking purposes. It makes the best of biscuits, pancakes, or anything which can be made with sour milk. Most of the medical works advise the use of old kou- miss instead of yeast to produce fermentation. This I would not recommend. After the koumiss is made one or two days, a thick curd (the caseine) will gen- erally be found at the top. It is also recommended to turn the bottles two or three times (not shake them, for fear of explosion) so as to mix this curd with the liquid below. I was quite particular about this at first, but, becoming more negligent, found that the koumiss was quite as good without this care. When the bottles are turned to the side (after the two and a half days), the caseine is loosened from the top, and when the koumiss is drawn, the effervescing gas accomplishes the mixing. To Tie the Bottles. — With a strong hemp twine make a loop as in Fig. 1, page 37. In Fig. 2, the twine at a is drawn up, and in Fig. 3 it is placed over the top of the cork. The two ends, 5, ^, are drawn as firmly as possible under the rim of the bottle, c, as in Fig. 3. To Tie and Cork the Bottles, 37 The ends, 5, 5, are then tied firmly over the top of the cork, Fig. 4. If the twine is not quite strong, the bot- tle can be doubly tied. The Cokks. — The corks should be obtained at a cork factory or wholesale cork store. The directories in the larger cities will give sucli addresses. They there cost fifty to sixty cents a ^^-^:^^^ ^^ I'^igi- gross, instead of a cent h the same size, the same corl each as at the druggists. The straight cork used by the Anheuser Eeer Company is of the proper size and of best quality. The necks of champagne and beer bottles are of answerine: for either. To Clean the Bottles. — If the koumiss is not acid, merely cleansing the bottles, as soon as emptied, and tilling them with cold water will be sufficient. If any acid remain in the bottle, shake it well, half filled with 38 Koumiss. water, with a half teaspoonful of soda added. Ponr this out, add another half teaspoonful of soda, fill the bottle with water, and let it renriain until it is wanted for use, when it should be rinsed with fresh water. The Champagne Tap. — It must be repeated that the kou- miss bottle should never be opened except by a champagne tap. The best one for the pur- pose that I have found is rep- resented in cut. There is another kind of tap with a wire enclosed in a tube, which wire has to be withdrawn after it is in the cork, before the screw is turned. The developments are disastrous while the wire is being drawn out, before the very important screw can be turned. After the tap is in the bottle, keep the neck of the bottle always down to prevent the escape of gas. Keep the bottle also in a cool, dark place. It has occurred to me that the making of koumiss might often afford profitable em- ployment for women. After perfecting themselves in its manufacture, they might send notices and samples to neighboring physicians and then sell it through the agency of druggists or grocers ; the latter having generally better means for the transportation and delivery of articles. The difficulty in procuring quite fresh milk in the large cities might preclude its best manufacture there. CHAMPAGNE TAP. ARTIFICIAL DiaUSTIOlSr BY MEAN'S OF PANGBEATIC FERMENTS. Impoktant discoveries have lately been made in the matter of supplying artificially digested, or partly di- gested, food, which is of great benefit in the treatment of certain diseased conditions. The digestive agent is pancreatic juice, or ferment, which can be taken from animals in an active, potent form. This is mixed with milk, milk gruel, milk punch, beef tea, and other foods, as explained in the receipts. Such digested food is es- pecially indicated w^ien there is an inability to digest the casein e of milk, or starch or fats, as often occurs with infants unable to retain milk in the stomach, and with consumptives who cannot digest fats. It is also indicated in cases of extreme emaciation or weakness, in cases of typhoid fevers,* and especially in gastric troubles brought on by alcoholic excesses. It is probably better to resort to artificial digestion only in extreme cases, where exercise and bracing air cannot accomplish their usual results in aid of natural digestion. Pepsin for stomachic indigestion has long been in use. Much of the digestive process, especially in the case of fats and starches, takes place when the food has left the stomach and entered the large intestine. This * The ulcerated bowels, common to typhoid fever, must not be exposed to the irritation of foods that leave a solid residue after digestion. The curdling of the caseine of milk can be prevented by giving it already di- gested (peptonized). 40 Artificial Digestion. may be called intestinal digestion. It is here that the pancreatic ferment does its work. For information on this subject, viz., the practical use of pancreatic extract and its action on the human sys- tem treated philosophically, we are indebted to Dr. William Eoberts, of Manchester, England. This infor- mation was given in a series of lectures before the Royal College of Physicians, which have since been published in book form, entitled " On the Digestive Ferments." In our own country a preparation of the pancreas, called "Extractum Pancreatis," is made by Fairchild Brothers & Foster, ^N'ew York City. Mr. Fairchild has published a small book on the subject, having given it a very thorough investigation. His extract is in powdered form, is easily kept, and quite perfect in its results. Dr. Horace Dobell has also contributed valuable in- formation on the same subject ; having, in fact, pre- ceded Dr. Roberts in his publications. His experi- ments have been chiefly directed to the action of the pancreas on fats.* An article, which can be obtained in most of our large cities (prepared by Savory & Moore, of London), called "Pancreatic Emulsion," i. e., pancreatized suet, cod-liver oil, etc., is the result of his investigations. This aliment is considered especially valuable for consumptives. (See Appendix, p. 212.) Dr. Dobell says : " Pancreatic emulsion has proved most magical in its effects on miserable, wasted children — children who have been subjected to chronic defects in diet ; for instance, when the mother's milk is poor in fat and lactine, or when the child's diet has been de- * The albuminoids and starch have been digested with pepsin and vege- table diastase; no other digestive agent has been found to emulsify f^it but pancreatine ; the pancreas, however, is the only organ concerned in the digestion of fiat. To Peptonize Milk. 41 ficient in milk and fat elements, and the pancreas has been partly paralyzed by prolonged inactivity, causing a kind of wasting (marasmus)." In the preparation of the various foods with the pan- creatic extract, the process of digestion is stopped a little short of completion, to prevent the formation of offensive products which full digestion would develop. In any of the following receipts the milk or food may be more or less peptonized.* For ordinary cases, especially for infants, it is better to partially peptonize the food. The degree of peptonizing is best determined by the readiness with which the food is assimilated by the patient. To check the action of the digestive fer- ment, the food, when sufficiently peptonized, can either be placed on ice, which at once arrests all action (and is a commentary on the reckless habit of drinking ice- water), or it can be scalded, or brought to the boiling- point. It is afterwards kept like ordinary milk. Pep- tonized milk gruel is generally preferred to the pepton- ized milk. To Peptonize Milk. In a clean quart bottle put a powder of five grains of Extractum Pancreatis (about a quarter of a teaspoonful), also fifteen grains of sodaf (a pinch), and a gill of water (half a cupful) ; shake it, then add a pint of quite fresh milk. Place the bottle in a pitcher of hot water, or set the bottle aside in a warm place for an hour, or an hour and a half, to keep the milk warm — about 110°, or the natural temperature of the body. "When the contents of the bottle assume a grayish-yellow color, and a slightly bitter taste, then the milk is thoroughly pep- * The word peptonized is used as synonymous with pancreatized. f A newer preparation of the pancreatic extract comes already mixed with soda. 42 Artificial Digestion. toiiized. When partially peptonized it has no bitter taste, and but little appearance of change. When the milk is peptonized (sufficiently for the patient), either scald or bring it to the boiling-point (to prevent further digestion), or place it on ice until used. It can be taken like ordinary milk. (Sec Appendix, p. 213.) Peptonized milk may be sweetened to taste, or used for making punch, with rum, etc., or it can be made into jelly; indeed, it can take the place of ordinary milk in any of the various dishes in which milk is used. Peptonized Milk Geuel. Half a pint (a cupful) of well-boiled gruel (of barley flour, Graham flour, or granulated w^heat, corn, or oat- meal) is added while still boiling hot, to half a pint of cold milk. The mixture will have a temperature of about 125° ; add to this five grains (quarter of a tea- spoonful) of the Extractum Pancreatis, and fifteen grains of soda, and let it stand until peptonized, the same as for peptonized milk, both as to making and preserving. Peptonized Milk Jelly. (Very palatable.) Ingredients: one pint of peptonized milk heated to boiling ; one quarter of a pound of sugar ; a half-box of Coxe's or Nelson's gelatine; the juice and the thin yellow cuts of the rind of one lemon ; the juice of one orange; three or four tablespoonfuls of Jamaica rum. Add the sugar and the thin cuts of the rind of the lemon to the milk. Soak the gelatine for half an hour or more, in enough cold water to merely cover it, then add a gill of boiling w^ater, and when quite dis- solved add the juices of the lemon and orange, and also the rum. Add this to the sweetened milk when it has partially cooled, and pass it through a little wire Pejptonized Milk Jelly. 43 milk- strainer or sieve. Four it into cups or moulds (previously wet with cold water), and set in a cold place. This jelly can be made of any flavor, with or without wine or spirits. It is very good when flavored with lemon or orange alone, or with lemon or almond ex- tract. When the milk is thoroughly peptonized (brought to a point when a slight bitter taste is detected), lemon juice or acids will not curdle it, as with the ordinary milk. The milk gruels can be used as well as the milk it- self in making jelly. GBAPE JUICE. The value of simple grape juice as a beverage has become but recently known, principal attention here- tofore having been directed to its fermentation into wine. For the invalid the simple grape juice is far preferable, the natural tonic of the grape being ob- tained without the inflammatory effects of alcohol. In flavor the natural bouquet of the grape is preserved. No beverage, aside from water, is more generally whole- some and palatable. In some of the hygienic insti- tutes it is prepared in large quantities and drank in place of tea or coffee at meals. It was introduced into St. Louis by Dr. Dodds in 1872. I am indebted to her for the mode of its prep- aration. Its manufacture provides a new industry for the farmers and canning companies, as the use of simple grape juice is destined to become general. Its preparation is as follows : Take grapes thorough- ly ripe and fresh from the vine. The Concord and Isabella are especially good, but any fresh, ripe, and juicy grape may be used. Allow one quart of water to three quarts of grapes freed from the stems. Use no sugar. Let it come slowly to a boil, and when the whole mass is boiling hot strain the juice through a cheese-cloth, flour sack, or other strong cloth. Then return the liquor to the fire, and as soon as it is at the boiling-point again, can it. The less the fruit or juice is cooked the brighter will Canning of Grape Juice. 45 be its color and the better the natural flavor of the grape will be retained. This, like all other articles to be canned, mnst be at the boiling-point when it is sealed. If the juice is to be used at once it should not be brought to the boiling-point a second time. Use wooden spoons in its preparation, and only glass jars for keeping it. The action of any acid substance on tin is to corrode it and poison the fruit. Before heating the grapes see that all the necessary preparations are complete, viz., that the jars and covers are clean, the covers fitted, and the hot water ready for holding the jars, etc. To avoid breaking the jars, manage them as follows : When the grape juice is nearly ready for canning, fill a large wooden tub about three quarters full with water quite hot, but below the boiling-point. Holding the jar sidewise, roll it over quickly in the water, and then set it right side up with the water in and around it. Continue in the same manner with other jars. Place the covers also in hot water. The juice being ready to be canned, roll one of the jars again quickly in the hot water, empty it, place it on a tin platter, and pour it full of the boiling juice, rather slowly at first. Wipe the moisture from the top of the can, adjust the rubber ring, and screw on the top (taken from the hot water and wiped dry) until it clasps the rubber tightly all around. Do it all as quickly as possible. Set this jar aside and proceed in the same way with the others. After the jars are cool enough to handle, screw down the tops again, and when entirely cold give them another twist in order that the sealing may be perfect. The best plan is to let them stand twenty-four hours and tighten them from time to time. Last of all, wipe them clean with a damp cloth, and set them away in a da7% cool 46 Grape Juice. closet or cellar. If no dark cellar be at liaiid, wrap the bottles in heavy brown paper to exclude the light. The cooler tliey are kept without freezing the better. THE HOT -WATER CUBE, The drinking of simple hot water as a cure for rheu- matism, gout, dyspepsia, catarrh, etc., is new and very efficacious. In these diseases there is a sporous con- dition, or an animal or vegetable growth on the coat- ings of the stomach or respiratory tubes. The tenden- cy of Jiot water is to produce an irritation and excite an action of the mucous membranes of the tubes and stomach, which throws off or detaches diseased matter. The tendency of water is to wash off these impurities and to carry off through the kidneys any effete mat- ter. The water should be taken as hot as possible. It is often taken in a wooden goblet. It should be taken on an empty stomach, either half an hour before a meal or two hours after. Two or three quarts a day are taken by some, although ordinarily a glassful (a half- pint) is taken half an hour before breakfast, again at 11 o'clock, and again at 4 p.m. Hot water taken in this manner, as a remedial agent, is a comparatively new discovery. It was found that rheumatism, gout, etc., were cured at the Hot Springs of Arkansas by the patients drinking quantities of the hot water at the springs. Experiments showed that any pure hot water was as good as that from these fa- mous springs, the diuretic effect being what was re- quired. A physician in New York told me that the hot- 48 The Hot-water Cure. water mania had been carried too far. He never pre- scribed over three pints a day. Taking it by the gal- lon might answer in some cases for a short time, but could not be lone^ contiimed. DIET IN DIFFERENT DISEASES. DIET FOR INFANTS. , Eesoet to artificial food, though sometimes necessary, is always unfortunate for the baby. Trouble then be- gins. The baby fortunate enough to have a healthy mother and a natural diet acquires a strength and vigor which are of incalculable value in after-life. For the first three days of the baby's life a little sweetened water in a spoon is all-sufiicient. It is de- sirable to adopt, as far as practicable, regular periods for nursing. Once in every three hours during the daytime and about twice at night for the first month will generally bo sufficient. After the first month three times during the day and once in the night will ordinarily suffice. This may be continued until the child is six months old. According to many and the best authorities, no fari- naceous food or thickening of any kind whatever should be given to a child under six months old. (See Appen- dix, page 216.) The child is until then "wholly un- provided with the physiological machinery requisite for the digestion of starchy foods." After six months the capacity for digesting starchy foods commences, and then a little gruel of sifted Graham flour, or barley, or cornmeal may be given. If the mother can nurse the child even partially, it is better to do so. If she cannot nurse the child at all, of course it is far better to procure a wet nurse than resort to cow's milk. Great 3 50 Diet ill Different Diseases. care should be taken that the wet nurse be quite healthy and especially free from scrofulous or consumptive taint. If possible she should be of the same or nearly the same age as the mother, and her child and that of the mother sliould be of the same age. At nine months, or when the child has two or more teeth, it should be weaned. Not, however, during summer-time nor unless the child be quite well. If the baby must be fed from the bottle the difficul- ties are many. The milk should be quite fresh from a healthy and properly fed cow. Then if the bottles are left to nurses to be cleaned there is constant danger that the work will be negligently or insufficiently done. It is absolutely essential that they be scalded and freed of all acid contents. The milk should also be given lukewarm, or near the temperature of mother's milk. Dr. Gatchel, in his admirable little book on "What Shall I Eat," says, " Half the sickness from which in- fants suffer is produced by improper food and improper feeding." Sir C. Clark, an eminent London physician, once said, " The ignorance of mothers in feeding chil- dren is worth a thousand pounds a year to me." Cow's milk differs from human milk in that it con- tains more caseinc, more butter, and more saline matter, but less water and less sugar. This difference must be rectified by adding to cow's milk the necessary water and sngar. For the first month give equal parts of milk and water; say of cow's milk one half-pint, of pure water (distilled or boiled) one half-pint, with pow- dered sugar of milk a teaspoonful or one lump of loaf sugar. If the child's stomach should be a little acid, a teaspoonful of lime-water can be added to this quantity. After the infant is a month old use tw^o parts of milk to one of water with sugar as above stated. The milk should be obtained fresh twice a day. Two pans should Diet for Infants. 61 be kept exclusively for the baby's use, and, before the milk is added, the pans, used alternately, should have been thoroughly cleansed, scalded, and dried. In sum- mer, the milk, if in danger of becoming sour, can be scalded when first put into the pan, but it must not be boiled. Glass jars are still better than tin pans for keeping milk.* Always use a fresh, clean bottle every time milk is given to the baby. Several bottles should be provided, also the black thimble rubber nipples ; the white are said to contain injurious ingredients. Never use the long rubber tube for the nursing-bottle, as it is almost impossible to keep it clean and free from acid. Dr. Gatchel says : " As soon as the child has taken enough for one feeding, empty from the bottle what remains, and, without delay, scald and wash the bottle with hot water and soap. After scalding, put the bot- tle into a basin of clean, cold water in which a little soda has been dissolved. Let it remain in the soda bath for half an hour, then rinse it in clean water and let it dry by hanging inverted on a peg." A Avire basket w^ould be better and more convenient than the peg. AVhile the baby is under a month old, the usual quan- tity for a meal should be the ordinary feeding-bottle half full. Afterwards the bottle nearly full. In its chemical properties, goats' milk approaches nearer than any other kind to human milk. Yery little water should be added to it — about four per cent, to make it suitable for infants. Probably the most perfect artificial substitute for hu- man milk is Liebig's food for infants, prepared accord- ing to strict cliemical principles. It is composed of malt flour, wheat flour, cow's milk, bicarbonate of potash, and water in such proportions as to imitate woman's milk as nearly as possible. * III regard to glass jars for keeping milk, see pnge 12. 52 Diet in Different Diseases. Liebig's Keceipt. Take half an ounce of wheat flour, half an ounce of malt flour, and seven and a quarter grains of crystallized bicarbonate of potash, and, after mixing them well, add one ounce of water, then five ounces of cow's milk. Warm the mixture, continually stirring, over a very slow fire, till it becomes thick. Then remove the ves- sel from the fire, stir again for five minutes, put it back on the fire, finally let it boil well. It is necessary that the food should form a thin and sweet liquid previous to its final boiling. Before us- ing, it should be strained through a fine hair sieve. Pavy says, in regard to this receipt : " To avoid the trouble of weighing, as much wheat flour as will lie on a tablespoon is an ounce, and a moderate tablespoonful of malt flour corresponds with half an ounce." It is malt made from barley that should be used, and a common coffee-mill answers the purpose of grinding it into flour, which is to be cleaned from the husk by a coarse sieve. The bicarbonate of potash is added to neutralize the acid reaction of the two kinds of flour, and also to raise the amount of alkali in the food to the equivalent of that in woman's milk. The ferment in the malt leads, during the exposure to the warmth employed in the process of preparation, to the conversion of the starch of both the flours into dextrine and sugar, the latter of which gives the sweet taste that is required. The newly found products also being soluble, will account for the mixture being thin, and the point contended for by Liebig is, that the same principles in this state tax the digestive and assimi- lative powers of the infant much less than starch. Pap ok Thickened Milk. Ingredients: One pint of milk, two even tablespoon- Different Foods for Infayits. 53 fills of flour, and a teaspoonf iil of sugar. The sugar is often omitted. Place the milk in a double boiler; when hot, stir in the flour, wet with two tablespoonf nls of cold milk ; let the water in the outer vessel boil hard for an hour. Or, the pap can be cooked directly over the Are, when ten minutes' simmering will be sufficient to cook the flour. Proper care should be taken, though, to prevent scorch- ing. This is pap proper ; but for a change, when it is just done and hot, the white of an (ig^ beaten to a stiff froth can be stirred in smoothly, without further cooking. It is very desirable to use the new -process flour (in which the full amount of gluten is retained) or cold- blast flour prepared by the Health-food Company. Crackers for Baby (over six months old). Crackers may be fed to babies over six months old. Either the Boston or soda crackers, the health - food lactic wafers, or cold-blast biscuits, or crackers made at home (see p. 122), of new-process flour, can be used. Pour over the cracker on a plate enough boiling water to cover it. Cover this with a saucer and let it remain in the oven for twenty minutes, or until it is quite soft and swollen. Then pour over some hot milk or thin cream. Bread Jelly, or Panada is most excellent for babies ten or twelve month old. (See p. 215.) Gruel for Babies. Any of the gruels are good for the baby. The barley gruel is most excellent. If troubled with consti- pation a cornmeal gruel is generally better than medi- cine. If with summer complaint, the flour gruel or pap is advisable. 54 Diet in Different Diseases. Oatmeal Gkuel. — (Dr. Kice of Colorado.) Oatmeal is a very hearty food, too much so to be com- mended as a common diet for infants. For a change, though, it often suits most admirably. Add one teacupful of oatmeal to two quarts of boil- ing water very slightlj^ salted ; let tliis cook for two hours and a half, then strain it through a sieve. When cold, add to one gill of the gruel one gill of thin cream and one teaspoonful of sugar. To this quantity add one pint of boiling water, and it is ready for use. Beef. — (Dr. Eice.) Scrape one half pound of beef, and remove all the shreds ; add one half pint of water, and three drops of muriatic acid. Let it stand one hour ; then strain it through a sieve, and add a very small portion of salt. Mellin's Food for Infants. Mellin's food for infants, which is said to be merely the Liebig receipt carried out perfectly, is probably as good food for infants as can be purchased. It is an English preparation, but can be found for sale every- where, as the food is w^ell known and much used. DYSPEPSIA. Many conditions are requisite to insure good diges- tion, viz.: Wholesome food; food taken at proper in- tervals, so that it may be digested, and the stomach al- lowed some repose before another repast is taken ; sufficient sleep ; a mind free from nervous irritation, yet freely employed with projects, either useful or orna- mental; a rejection of stimulating beverages, condi; ments, and spices; and, important as the selection of food itself, physical exercise. The working classes have the health and strength. Men, as a class, with their active vocations, are healthier than women. Fashion- able women, as a general thing, do not take enougli muscular exercise to keep themselves in good condition. Walking is all very well, but it is only about a third enough. The chest muscles, the liver, the vital organs generally, do not get enough stirring up, by bending, twisting, lifting, etc., to keep up a natural circulation, much less to create a healthy demand for food. The demand for food under normal circumstances is in pro- portion to the amount of organic expenditure. It is this need of a free circulation of blood to take up food and carry it to perform its necessary functions, that causes half of the suffering from dyspepsia. Adi- rondack rowboats, mountain climbing, garden-making, and Dr. Oswald's woodshed matinees are all conducive to health and strength. Let those leading sedentary lives in the cities make Trianons of farmhouses and 56 Dyspepsia. mountain camps, and plaj for a few weeks the roles of English dairymaids and French peasants or American pioneers. Plealth and civilization would be advanced. One is the complement of the other — " Les extremes se touchentP The new gymnastic machines (the Gifford patent) are admirable, if it did not seem something of a waste of power to thrust and wave the arms in the air to no practical purpose. It is possible, however, that the same systematic action and the same exercise of partic- ular muscles could not be accomplished so well in any- other way. The exercise of sweeping and cleaning a room is admirable for bringing many muscles into play. Yet out-door work — horseback riding, garden making, snow shovelling, water pumping — is better and pleas- anter. What a blessing it would be if all the hydrant water of the dwelling had to be pumped to the fourth story ! and pumped by the proprietors of the castle. Some do good service by exercising mornings and evenings in half undress with light dumb-bells. A happy idea is to shovel sand from one box to another, and continue the occupation daily. But if useful exer- cise which can interest the mind can be chosen, it is far preferable. If one wants to learn how to exercise, or rather to understand the importance of certain move- ments — it is well to do everything scientifically — a few lessons at an establishment where gymnastics, Swedish movements, exercises with vibratory-motion machines, and massage are conducted by competent physicians, would be of benefit. There are several such establish- ments in the large cities, and they are rapidly gaining in favor. Another principal cause of dyspepsia is the general taking of too highly seasoned food. Then follow the drug poisons. Diet for Dyspeptics. 57 Dr. Oswald says, in relation to drugs : " What such tonics do is this, they goad the system into a transient and abnormal activity incident to the necessity of ex- pelling a virulent poison. . . . The system has wasted the organic energy which it seemed to revive." In chronic cases the best practice is undoubtedly to take all the out-door exercise possible, short of fatigue, to choose the most w^holesome of foods, and patiently await results. " Temporary blue devils are far prefer- able to a persistent blue-pill Beelzebub." 3Iais pardon I disciples of Esculapius. The author is going too far without a physician's certificate, and should only talk about diet. Different foods must be tested, for what agrees with one, will not agree with all. A milk diet with farina- ceous foods — oat-meal porridge, cracked wheat, corn bread, etc. — act like a charm with some, while a few per- sons cannot digest milk. Koumiss and peptonized milk can generally be relied on when simple milk is unsatis- factory. Eaw-meat sandwiches, and the minced beef- steak (page 143), with as much pepper and salt accom- paniment as can be dispensed with, is often beneficial ; though meat should not be taken at the same time witli milk. Baked potatoes, mashed, with cream, poached eggs, uncooked eggs (page 141), baked apples, and stewed fruits generally, are quite wholesome. A most important article of diet for dyspeptics is Graham bread made of wheat partly or wholly denuded of its fibrous coating. A breakfast consisting of an oat -meal porridge, a cracked - wheat mould, or a generous slice of Boston brown bread, with cream poured over it, with hot water served in a teacup (see page 4) in place of tea or cof- fee — this and nothing more ; a dinner composed of a slice of rare roasted or broiled beef, mutton, or veni- 3* 68 Dysjpejpsia. son, or a piece of well-cooked chicken, or broiled fish, for a change (only one of them at a time, however), one or two vegetables, and a rice pudding, a blanc-mange, custard, or other plain pudding; and a supper or lunch- eon of bread and milk, or cornmeal mush and milk, a mock-cream toast, and a baked apple, or some stewed fruit — this well cooked and lightly seasoned will gen- erally appease an intractable stomach. Let nothing be over-seasoned. Too much salt pro- duces more or less inflammation and fever, and some liygienists banish it altogether, with the spices and con- diments. They argue that food contains ah^eady enough salt. Mattieu Williams says: "Salt is not a condiment, but a food, simply because it supplies the blood with one of its normal and necessary constituents, chloride of sodium, without wiiich we cannot live. A certain amount of it exists in most of our ordinary food, but not always sufficient." It should probably be used much more sparingly than is customary. Dietetic reforms should begin with a strictly non- stimulating diet. Let grape juice, koumiss, or currant- jelly water be the strongest beverage. Salt or smoked meats, sausages, viands recooked, pickles, canned tomatoes, and fried dishes generally should be eschewed. And yet the diet must not be insipid. If well cooked and artistically served the ad- missible dishes would be relished by any one with a normal and healthy digestion — one not impaired or perverted by stimulants. The dietary suitable for a healthy child is generally suitable for an adult. In extreme cases of irritability of the stomach, if milk, or milk and lime-water, koumiss or buttermilk, will not answer, the alternatives are barley water, the gruels of Graham flour, oat or corn meal, beef tea or A Cure f 07' Dysjpejptics. 69 oj^ster or clam broth. This is administered at regular intervals until the stomach evinces a more efficient working capacity. Any dyspeptic may better undereat than overeat. A weak stomach must not be ovei'tasked. Some physi- cians go 80 far as to say that total abstinence for a day or more, to give the organ a rest, is beneficial. If the dyspeptic could make up his mind to stop eating while still a little hungry, greater benefits would result than from the taking of nostrums. It must be borne in mind, however, that while absti- nence from food may be resorted to in special cases, dyspepsia can be brought on by fasting or by insuffi- cient diet. The digestive functions can become weak from mere inertia. The tone of the stomach, like the tone of the muscles, may be lost by want of exercise. Undoubtedly, as a rule, we eat too much. Persons of sedentary habits often eat as much as those employed . in physical labor. Indeed, it may be noticed that the less one has to do, the more attention one gives to tax- ing the stomach. Not that one should scorn a good healthy appetite — but it is still carried to excess, espe- cially by the world of people who lead sedentary lives, also by many wealthy families who consider that good living and hospitality require too great a variety of dishes, and too many courses at meals. Dio Lewis, in one of his books, tells a story of a quack country doctor who advertised that he could cure any person of dyspepsia in a few weeks — price $400. The patient was sworn to secrecy as to the mode of cure, be- fore being admitted to his sanatarium. His country pa- tients expostulated, sometimes, in regard to the price. The doctor was obdurate, and as dyspeptics generally are hovering on the brink of despair, they invariably, sooner or later, came to terms. They were also in- 60 Dyspepsia. variably cured, according to the tradition. Finally the doctor died (not of dyspepsia, however), and one of his patients, considering his vow no longer obligatory, told the great secret. A sanatary diet was of course administered ; but the chief means of cure consisted simply in the patient kneading and beating his liver and stomach. At first it was sensitive and painful, but by careful rubbing and patting the exercise was daily increased, until the patient could pound the refractory organs vigorously for an hour or more at a time. This may all seem extremely ridiculous. Not so, however. It is really the Swedish movement-cure to a new tune — a^a^ seul. The soreness of even a boil can be reduced and sometimes removed by careful manipu- lation. The circulation is thus equalized, giving new strength, and carrying off the poison. DIARRHCEA, DYSENTERY, AND CHOLERA. DiAREHCEA. DiAERHCEA results from an effort of nature to throw off either an excessive quantity or a poor quality of food which cannot be digested. The digestive powers in such cases are overtaxed and weakened, and the best remedy in the first stage of an acute attack is total ab- stinence from food for at least a day. The stomach needs rest, and the patient will not suffer from this fast- ing, but will often recover by simply retaining a recum- bent position and taking nothing but a little cool water, 01*, at most, rice-water, in small quantities at a time. For the first two or three days a little rice gruel will be sufficient in the way of food. If milk agrees with one perfectly, it can be taken mixed with lime-water (a table- spoonful of lime-water to a gobletf ul [half a pint] of milk), at first at intervals of one or two hours. After a time, as strength is developed, the quantity may be increased to, say, a small glassful every three or four hours. Milk is generally an excellent diet for this trouble, and, when taken, nothing else is required. Koumiss (new or fresh- ly made), is also highly recommended for diarrhoea. Thickened milk or flour gruel is often given. There are some who cannot take milk, and then the alterna- tives are barley-water, thin oatmeal gruel (strained), beef tea, oyster broth, and sometimes the pulp of raw meat. The patient should be extremely careful during con- 62 Diarrhoea^ Dysentery, and Cholera. valescence to take only the most digestible of foods — for instance, toast dipped in milk, raw Qgg (page 141), rice puddings, tea and toast sippets (soaked in tea), the preparations from the health foods, etc. Dysentery. In this disease there are inflammation and ulceration of the intestines. Consequently the patient should be kept in as tranquil a state as practicable. The food should be such as to exert the least stimulating or irri- tant action on the mucous membranes. An exclusive diet of milk (given as described in the preceding arti- cle), is of as great value in dysentery as in diarrhoea. Kice-water and rice gruel are also especially recom- mended, as well as barley and flour gruel. Kaw eggs (page 141), or eggs lightly poached, or eggs beaten with milk and sweetened, as described for milk punch (without the liquor), are useful in dysentery. The pulp of raw meat is sometimes advantageously used in cases of diarrhoea and dysentery. The fat is all re- moved and the fresh beef is either scraped and divested of all fibre, or it can be cut into a pulp with a mincing- machine. This fine pulp may be lightly seasoned with salt and red pepper and placed between two thin slices of stale bread, forming a sandwich ; or it can be formed into a thick cake and the outside merely colored by placing it in a hot saucepan ; but the inside must not be cooked. Dr. Hall gives a tablespoonful of scraped raw beef every four hours. Cold drinks tend to aggravate the pain and colic which accompany this disease. Cholera. During the prevalence of cholera great care must be Cholera. 63 taken to keep digestion in good order. No ice-water, alcoholic stimulants, stale or unripe vegetables, pickles, or any indigestible food should be taken. Dr. Gatchell says : " During the attack no food what- ever is required. The incessant thirst from which the patient suffers it is hard to gratify, for water taken into the stomach aggravates the vomiting; and yet the patient should receive all the water that he craves, if he can retain it. If this is impossible, much benefit may be derived from holding small pieces of ice in the mouth until they melt away. Injections of warm milk may be used with advantage, if nothing can be taken by the stomach. '' After the attack no solid food should be taken until the stools are consistent and faecal. Great care must be observed during convalescence. An attack of indi- gestion at this time is often followed by a fatal relapse. At first only farinaceous food should be given, and this in small quantities, frequently repeated. " Rice thoroughly cooked, thickened milk, and the like may first be taken. Milk, however, is to be pre- ferred to this, and, if the patient can take it, nothing else need be sought for." FEVERS„ De. Beaumont found, bj experimenting with a young man who had his stomach opened by a musket shot, and afterwards so covered that the action of the gastric juice could be witnessed, that but little gastric juice is se- creted in febrile diseases. The digestive power is very weak. Fevers seem to be due to a poison multiplying itself in the blood, which runs a regular course, more or less severe according to the different constitutions attacked and according to the nursing and care received. The body becomes emacia- ted. Both the tissue and adipose matter seem to burn up. Cooling drinks and food only in liquid form should be given, and the latter in small quantities, but at reguhir intervals of, say, two or three hours. Solid food given even during convalescence will often cause a relapse. In some stages of fever there is an intense longing on the part of the patient for cool air, cold water, and espe- cially for acid drinks, and but little desire for solid food. All the pure cold water that is desired should be given. Barley and toast water can be given also as drinks. Lemonade, orangeade, tamarind and currant-jelly water, and buttermilk are generally craved, and, if so, they are beneficial. Milk fresh from the cow, or else ice cold, as preferred, is recommended by all the authorities for fever patients (except in cases of typhoid fever). Kou- miss is especially beneficial for fevers. It is always re- ceived gratefully, and is the very best diet that can be Diet for Fever Patients, 65 given, as it contains a mild stimulant in addition to its digestible food properties. Beef tea and koumiss or milk can be given in alternation. Barley, oatmeal, and Grabam-flour gruels are mucb used, especially during convalescence. It is well not to use stimulants unless the patient is alarmingly weak, when an eggnog can be given if koumiss is not a sufficient stimulus. Peptonized milk and gruel are also recommended w^hen fresh milk and gruel do not agree with the pa- tient. If milk disagrees, or is thrown up curdled, a tablespoonful of lime-water to a cupful of milk will generally correct the difficulty. The fruits are especially beneficial to fever patients. Dr. Oswald says : " Bananas are jpar excellence an anti- fever food, being refreshing, palatable, and nutritive, as well as exceedingly digestible." When the patient has no appetite for food, very little or none should be given. Dr. Oswald says: "When coolness, sweetness, and fruity fiavors cannot make a dish acceptable to the appetite, its (obtrusion would do more harm than good, and it is a great mistake to sup- pose that even total abstinence could, in such cases, ag- gravate the danger of the disease." In the critical stage of fevers, milk, koumiss, a light gruel, orange juice, and the cold drinks are all that need be given. After the crisis has passed, bananas, pears, baked apples, raw eggs (page 141), bread jelly, dipped toast (made of nutritive flour), or barley gruel could be added. All animal food or greasy dishes should be avoided until full recovery. If the patient's mouth is furred it may be washed out with cold water containing a little lemon juice, be- fore food is taken. 66 Femrs. Typhoid Fevee. This being a long and exhausting disease, the chief treatment consists in good nursing and careful diet. In this disease the lining membrane of the intestines be- comes ulcerated. This complicates the question of diet, as nothing should be given which will leave a solid residue in the bowels, for fear of irritating the ulcers and causing them to perforate through the intestines. This cuts off fresh milk, the curd of w^hich forms more or less solid masses. Koumiss which is partly digested is to be preferred to milk, also peptonized milk gruel (see pp. 42, 213, 228). Beef tea is also beneficially given. The experience of Sir Wm. Jenner is so extended in the treatment of typhoid fevers that I add his remarks on "Diet in Typhoid Fever" in the Appendix (page 223). There is rapid waste in this fever, and the patient must be fed regularly with very nutritious food. Kou- miss, beef tea, the gruels, eggnog, etc., are the chief ar- ticles of diet. If the patient becomes unable to swal- low, nutrient enemeta must be resorted to. Eubbing the body with oil is of great value. GOUT AND RHEUMATISM. An excess of uric acid in the system, and the conse- quent tendency to deposit urate of soda in the fibrous tissue around the joints, is the cause of gout. This con- dition is superinduced by the use of too much highly seasoned animal food and by indulgence in stimulants, without taking sufficient physical exercise. In other words, more food is taken than can be properly digested and assimilated. Laborers, taking a less proportion of animal food, and more out-door exercise, are rarely ever troubled with gout. Gouty patients and the children of gouty parents should promptly adopt habits of strict ab- stemiousness. The diet should be chiefly vegetable, and physical exercise in the open air is indispensable. The regimen recommended for dyspepsia will answer very well for gout and rheumatism — rheumatism, like gout, being often consequent upon dietetic abuses. Meat should be strictly avoided in all cases of gout. It will only aggravate the trouble, and the same may be said of alcoholic drinks, malt liquors, and especially port wine. Probably the surest cure for both gout and rheuma- tism is to be found in a complete change of the ordi- nary dietary in favor of a purely milk diet — or a diet composed of milk and the grain preparations, viz. : oatmeal porridge, cracked wheat, Graham bread, etc. Skimmed milk is generally prescribed, but the patient must be ill indeed if not able to digest fresh, new milk. G8 Gout and Bheumatism. The patient need not fear starvation. He will iind himself stronger than ever. Milk contains all the ele- ments necessary in food, and it contains these elements in the proper proportions to promote digestion and to produce healthful assimilation. Probably one would not be obliged to continue this strict dietary for more than a few weeks, before a more varied menu could be trusted. BRIGHT'S DISEASE. Pavy says : " Physiology teaches us that the kidneys perforin an eliminative office. The water which they remove in regulating the amount of fluid in the system is made the vehicle for carrying off solid matter, consist- ing of useless products of the metamorphosis of the food, and effete materials, resulting from the disintegration of the tissues, which poison and produce death, if al- lowed to accumulate in the blood. In Bright's disease their eliminative capacity is interfered with. " The amount of urinary matter to be discharged is largely dependent upon the nature of the food. The fats and carbohydrates^' throw no work upon the kid- neys. The products of their utilization — carbonic acid and water — pass off through another channel. " The nitrogenous ingesta, on the other hand, in great part undergo metamorphosis, and yield their nitrogen to be carried off in combination with a portion of their other elements, under the form of urinary products. In this way the kidneys become taxed by the food. So a vegetable diet should preponderate. "It must not be lost sight of, that, on account of the escape of albumen, an extra amount of nitrogenous mat- ter should be supplied to make up for the loss of albu- men. In Bright's disease the kidney is contracted, and frequently the escape of albumen is insignificant, and * Composed of starcli. 70 Bright^ s Disease. sometimes even it is none. The mere loss of albumen is not so mncli to be dreaded as iirsemia." A vegetable diet is also recommended by most of the authorities (Chambers being an exception), on the sup- position that meat throws extra work upon the kidneys. In the use of the grain foods such preparations only should be selected as contain the full nutriment of tlie grain (see pages, 26, 207). A diet wholly or partially of milk is much recom- mended. Niemeyer says : " In a series of cases which have been described by Dr. Schmidt, in his inaugural thesis, I have obtained most brilliant results, where all other treatment has failed, by putting the patients on an almost exclusive diet of milk." The ordinary mixed diet should be gradually changed in favor of the milk diet, until one exclusively of milk is finally reached. This should be kept up for a month or so, when improvement is almost certain. The patient should drink freely of pure soft water, as that carries off much of the impurities of the blood. Flax-seed tea is at times beneficial. No alcoholic or malt liquors should be allowed in any form. They act as a certain poison in kidney affections, and their exces- sive use, without doubt, is the provoking cause of a ma- jority of such diseases. DIABETES. The formation of sugar in the urine is what is char- acterized as diabetes. The cure of this disease is ahnost entirely dietetic, and consists merely of the patient and persistent taking of foods which contain no sugar nor starch, wdiich latter is converted by natural processes into sugar in the system. Fat and albuminoids are given in their pLace. Dr. Dobell recommends very highly the pancreatic emulsion of fat for diabetics. The following is a list of dishes which are allowed and prohibited a sufferer from diabetes. The dishes are allowed which are not marked prohibited. Oysteks and Clams. Eaw or cooked without flour mixtures. Oysters can be rolled in egg and gluten for frying. Soups. All kinds without flour, rice, or other starchy sub- stances, and without the prohibited vegetables. Fisn. All kinds, including lobsters, crabs, sardines in oil, etc. Meats. Of all kinds. Poultry, game, etc. Livers, on theo- retical grounds, are prohibited. Vegetables Allowed. Cauliflow^er, spinach, cabbage, string beans, cucum- bers, lettuce, greens, mushrooms, young onions, and 72 JJiabetes. olives. Celery, asparagus, and tomatoes are qnestiona- ble. Sour apples cut in quarters, dipped in Ggg and rolled in gluten, and fried in hot fat, niake a good sub- stitute for potatoes, and may be used moderately. Vegetables Peoiiibited. Potatoes, beets, turnips, pease, beans, carrots, parsnips, rice, sago, tapioca, vermicelli, or others containing sugar or starch. Milk, Cheese, and Eggs. Milk, in some cases ; eggs, cream, butter, buttermilk, and all kinds of cheese may be taken freely. Puddings and custards should be sweetened with glycerine. Fkuits. All kinds of tart fruits, peaches and strawberries with cream and no sugar. Fruits Prohibited. All the sweet fruits, as apples, pears, plums, grapes, bananas, pineapples, raspberries, blackberries, etc. Breads and Pastry. Only those made from wheat-gluten flour. The or- dinary flour or grains (oatmeal, cornmeal, honjiny, etc.) must not be used in any form. Beverages. Koumiss, coffee with cream and glycerine (no sugar). Cereal coffee, very good. Tea objectionable. No liq- uors nor wines, except claret, Phine, or other acid varie- ties. It is still better to reject all wines, sweet or sour, and all liquors, malt or distilled. As much pure water as desired may be taken. nttts generally. Plenty of exercise in the open air, tepid baths, rub- bing, and abundant sleep are desirable. CONSUMPTION. The principal object in treating consumption is to bnild, tlio tendency of the disease being to waste. There must be, if possible, a renewed and healthy organic growth to arrest the formation of tubercular and dis- eased matter; consequently all the nourishing food which can be digested and assimilated should be taken. Plenty of fresh milk, if possible warm from the cow, is desirable ; also buttermilk, clabbered milk, and kou- miss (see articles on Koumiss). Fresh meats, such as beef, mutton, and venison, roast- ed or broiled, and cooked rare, should be freely indulged in (meats and fresh milk must not be taken at the same meals, however). Fowls and fresh fish may be safely and profitably taken. Pork, veal, and all foods difii- cult and slow of digestion should be avoided. All salt- ed meats should be eschewed. Potatoes, carrots, and fresh vegetables generally, are wholesome, and even necessary, when much meat is taken. Raw and slight- ly cooked eggs are full of nutrition and very assimila- ble. Care should be taken to discontinue at once any article of food that disagrees with the patient, as dis- ordered digestion is especially unfortunate in consump- tion. As much fat as can be digested, whether it be in the form of cream, butter, fat of meat, or oil, should be taken. Cod-liver oil seems to be one of the great re- sources for supplying fat to consumptives, and the 4 74 Consumption. amount of evidence accumulated in its favor leaves no doubt as to its utility. The oil should be quite fresh, without color, and should be kept well corked in a cool place. If it does not agree in its crude form, there are preparations of it in emulsion, combined with pancre- atic extract, malt, hjpophosphates, etc., which are con- sidered beneficial and should be tried. Dr. Gatchell says a dose of a teaspoonful of cod-liver oil is sufficient to begin with, and this quantity can be increased until a tablespoonful three times a day may be safely and profitably taken. It must not be taken on an empty stomach, but half an hour after a meal. The pancreatic emulsion (see pages 40 and 213), a preparation of half-digested beef suet, is well worth a trial. Alcoholic stimulants are considered very injurious to consumptives by most authorities, and they should not be used at all except in hopeless cases, where they may serve to give temporary strength in periods of extreme weakness or to alleviate acute pain and suffering. The effect of alcohol in any but the smallest quantities (as found in koumiss, etc.), is to derange and weaken the digestive powers, the main reliance foiVcure. Among others. Dr. Chambers says : " As to the use of alcohol in threatened cases, and in the early stage of tubercle, I have no hesitation in pronouncing an opin- ion against it." As nothing aids digestion, and consequently assimi- lation and health, so much as fresh air and sunshine, combined with all the physical exercise that can be borne without fatigue^ a life in the mountains, where the air is dry and bracing, is to be chosen if possible. Having spent three summers in the mountains of Colo- rado, and having seen and conversed with many con- sumptives, I am led to believe that the cures are in almost all cases among those who adopt an out -door Diet in Consiimjption^ etc. 75 tent life, and impose upon themselves a certain amount of physical work. I say worli, purposely, to designate something more than mere exercise. Actual work giv- ing good exercise to the arms and chest is especially desirable, always remembering to stop short of fatigue. The most remarkable cure of which I knew was that of a man far gone with consumption (as they avowed), and hardly able to walk when he started from Missouri, who made the trip across the plains in an ambulance, and soon cooked his own and companions' meals. The trouble with most invalids is that they haven't "vim" enough to be willing to work for health. In the Adirondacks of northern New York, among the hem- locks " on the Eaquette," a long distance from any first-class hotels (which are all very well in their place), we have met many consumptives, and in all cases they were benefited by the wild-woods life. Some persons spend the winter there and take their "constitutional" by chopping wood, etc., and report that the winters are even more beneficial than the summers. Dr. Chambers says: " The use of climate in the treat- ment of phthisis (consumption) may be tested by its dietetic action ; if it improves the appetite it is doing good ; if it injures the appetite it is doing harm." SCEOFULA. The diet in scrofula should be the same as in con- sumption ; a full diet containing plenty of fat, in the way of cream, fresh milk, butter, fresh animal food, cod- liver oil, etc., and also a full complement of fresh air, sunshine, and exercise. The extract of malt is general- ly recommended. KiCKETS. This disease is the result of imperfect nutrition, and should be treated like scrofula, by prescribing a ^qm- 76 Conswrvption. erous diet, such as milk, cream, raw beef, and cod-liver oil. The extract of malt, which contains phosphates of lime and other salts, is especially valuable in the treat- ment of this disease. DiPIITHEKlA. The patient should be well nourished. Give plenty of fresh, new milk, or milk mixed with beaten egg (milk punch without the liquor). In the stage of depression some stimulant is required. Let it be eggnog, milk puncli, or raw egg beaten with a spoonful of whiskey or brandy, oatmeal caudle, or koumiss. If the patient can no longer swallow, he should be nourished by nutrient enemeta, and by rubbing the body, especially the abdomen (under cover, for fear of taking cold), several times a day with olive-oil. Gasteitis. In the height of the attack, when the stomach is much inflamed, no food whatever should be taken. Small pieces of ice may be held in the mouth and some swal- lowed. Fresh koumiss is most excellent. Ice-cream flavored with lemon extract (no vanilla) is also valuable. If milk agrees, no other food is required. The gruels come next, but no meats should be eaten. The meats are digested in the stomach, and the starchy foods in the large intestine beyond the stomach. If nothing can be retained on the stomach, nutrient enemeta and rubbing the body with oil must be resort- ed to. CORPULENCY. Fat in the body is created out of the fat of food, and also from its starch and saccharine elements. Conse- quently, in the treatment of corpulency, it is necessary to interdict foods that contain fat, starch, or sugar. Sugar, according to Banting, is the most active of fat- forming foods. Mr. Banting's rules were as follows : "For breakfast, at 9 a. m., I take five or six ounces of beef, mutton, kidneys, broiled fish, or cold meat of any kind except pork and veal ; a large cup of tea or coffee without milk or sugar ; a little biscuit, or one ounce of dry toast. '' For dinner, at 2 p. m., five or six ounces of any kind of fish except salmon, herring, or eels ; any meat ex- cept pork or veal ; any vegetables except potato, pars- nip, beet, turnip, or carrot ; one ounce of dry toast ; fruit out of a pudding not sweetened ; any kind of poultry or game, and three or four glasses of good claret, sherry, or madeira (champagne, port, and beer forbidden). " For tea, at 6 p. m., two or three ounces of cooked fruit, a rusk or two, and a cup of tea without milk or sugar. *' For supper, at 9 p. m., three or four ounces of meat or fish with a glass or two of claret, or sheny and water." The propriety of the last meal, or of the taking of 78 Corpulency. sherry or madeira (heat-producing wines), or of rusks, which are sweet biscuits, is doubtful. The following comprise the fat-producing foods, viz. : Milk, cream, butter, fats, soups, puddings, pastrj^, su- gar, candies, cake, and all sweet dishes, rice, corn-starch, and all the farinaceous foods (excepting toasted bread or bread crust), potatoes, corn — in fact all edible roots and vegetables growing under ground — sweet fruits, and spirituous and malt liquors. The following are non-fat-producing foods, viz. : All the meats, poultry, and game, with the excep- tion of the fat portions thereof, oysters and shell-fish ; celery, spinach, and all the greens, cabbage, onions, let- tuce, squash, tomatoes, and other vegetables containing little or no starch, and all acid fruits. Dr. Dobell thinks that a certain amount of fat should be taken with the food. On this subject, he says : " On comparing the following analysis of Mr. Banting's diet for getting thin with my tables of normal diets, it will be seen that it yields less than half the normal quantity of carbon, leaving the deficiency to be ob- tained from the fat already stored up in the system, by the consumption of which the obesity is removed. The fault consists in this reduction of carbon being obtained by diminishing the hydrocarbons (fats) of the foods in- stead of only cutting off the carbohydrates (sugar and starch). It has happened to me to have much to do with a great number of persons who have tried Bant- ingism, and I do not hesitate to say that Mr. Banting has done a great deal more harm than good. Mr. Banting candidly told his readers that he was ignorant of the physiology of food. Diet for the Corpulent. 79 " The facts in the case are tliese : 1. A certain amount of fat in the system is one of the most essential ele- ments of health. 2. The quantity required by differ- ent individuals to maintain health differs. As much fat should be taken as the stomach likes. 3. The effects of a deficiency of the quantity actually required are most disastrous, the tissues of the body and the brain and nerves being at length disintegrated to supply the elements of fat which they contain. 4. When there is a quantity of fat in the body in excess of that necessary to health, it may be lessened with great and (needed) ad- vantage, provided it be done slowly and without cutting off too much of the fat element of food." There is much to be gained by observing certain other rules, aside from the dietary. For instance, every morning a hasty cold water sponge-bath should be taken, and the body should be well rubbed with a crash towel. And whenever the body is too warm, the cold water sponge -bath may be repeated without a general undress. The clothing should not be too warm. AH the bodily exercise that can be taken without fatigue should be persistently kept up. The vibratory-motion machine is most excellent for reducing fat. This ma- chine makes two thousand vibrations a minute, and is made to accommodate different portions of the body. To those who are unable to take other and ordinary ex- ercise this machine is especially recommended. Its action is to produce a rapid circulation of the blood, which takes up and carries off adipose and effete matter. With plenty of exercise there will be less need of an exacting dietary. SOMETHING ABOUT LONGEVITY. Before the age of eighty, it is not years that make us old. It is want of health, either inherited or brought on by our own imprudences. Health is youth. Many are younger at sixty than others at twenty. The person in health is always young. The invalid is always old. To him life is without enjoyment, without energy, and without aspiration. And yet, when health is every- thing, life itself, how little it is guarded ! how little ap- preciated, except when lost ! What a plaything it is ! And so our youth is our middle age. Our middle age is our old age. When it is time to live and enjoy the fruits of experience, study, and labor, we are practically dead. Men have lost tlieir vigor at sixty, and women have lost their beauty at forty. There are some who stop to think. They discuss ill- ventilated bedrooms, temperance, corsets, graham bread. Dieu nous defend! What disagreeable subjects ! What cranks and crazy theorists they are ! These theorists attack established habits. Fixed habits are tyrants, and their power is irresistible, and so the study of health is unpopular. Sickness alone must be considered. There is no doubt that the natural period of human life is greatly shortened by long and perverse violation of natural laws, and that the requirements to guard the divine gift are many. The total length of life among dumb animals is about five times the period between birth and full maturity. Age of' Animals, Climate, etc. 81 A horse is mature at from ^yq to six years. His aver- age age is five times as much, and so the rule holds true with the other animals. Man is mature at twenty -five. On the same principle he should live to be one hundred and twenty -five. This is a charming world, and the author cannot afford to make the mature age at less than twenty-five, especially when man is not considered sufiiciently aged to hold most of the important oflSces before thirty. At least, a lesson can be learned from animal life. Animal food is simple. It is without spices. The drink of animals is water. Their bedrooms are venti- lated. They breathe pure air. Bad colds and dys- pepsia are infrequent. They inherit sound constitu- tions. Climate has much to do with the preservation of youth, or rather health. In the extended territory of the United States many healthful situations are to be found; not, however, where the weather is very change- able, nor where the average temperature is very high. In some portions of Scotland men often retain their full vigor at eight3\ The equable climate of England is especially salubrious. Reference to a few examples of persons living to a great age may be both interesting and profitable. Cornaro, a distinguished Italian nobleman, found him- self at forty quite broken down by his gross excesses. Upon the advice of a physician he resolved to lead a new life — to maintain a temperance which should be as marked as his former indulgences. At eighty-three he wrote a work, " Sure and Certain Method of Attaining a Long and Healthy Life." This work was followed by three others, written at the ages of eighty-six, ninety- one, and ninety-five. His works were translated into Latin, French, German, and English. The English trans- 4* 82 Something about Longevity. lation reached its thirty-ninth edition in 1845. Cornaro exclaims : " O blessed temperance, how worthy art thou of onr highest esteem ! and how infinitely art thou pref- erable to the irregular and disorderly life ! There is as wide a difference between you as there is between light and darkness, heaven and hell." Again, he says, in older age : '' O sacred and most beautiful temper- ance ! how greatly am I indebted to thee for rescuing me from such fatal delusions, and for bringing me to the enjoyment of so many felicities, and which over and above these favors conferred on your old man, has so strengthened his stomach that he has now a better rel- ish for his dry bread than he had formerly for the most exquisite dainties! My spirits are not injured by what I eat, they are only revived and supported by it." To a distinguished archbishop he again wrote: "Is it not a charming thing that I am able to tell you that my health and strength are in so excellent a state ? that instead of diminishing with my age, they seem to increase as I grow old? all of my acquaintances are surprised at it, and I, who know the cause of this singular happiness, do everywhere declare it. ... I confess it was not with- out great work that I abandoned my luxurious way of life." When Cornaro was ninety-five, he wrote: "I find myself as healthy and brisk as if I were but twenty- five. Most of your old men have scarce arrived at sixty before they find themselves loaded with infirmities. They are melancholy, unhealthful, always full of dread- ful apprehension of dying." There are many famous instances of longevity. Count Jean Frederick de Waldeck died in Paris, in 1875, at the age of one hundred and nine. He had been conspicuously before the world for over ninetj^ years. He became member and honorary member of the prin- cipal learned societies of London and Paris. Persons of Great Age. 83 "The Irish Countess of Desmond fell from a fruit tree, broke her thigh, and died in 1609, aged one hun- dred and fortj-five years. She danced at court with the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard the Third. She continued gay and lively in her tastes, dancing even be- yond her hundredth birthday. She cut three new sets of teeth." The Cardinal de Salis, archbishop of Seville, who lived to be one hundred and ten, considered his health and vigor were owing to his care in diet. But examples of longevity are generally found among the poorer classes. Lord Bacon, in his " History of Life and Death," thus quotes from Pliny: "The year of our Lord 76 is memorable ; for in that year there was a taxing of the people by Vespasian ; from which it appears that in the part of Italy lying between the Appenines and the river Po there were found fifty-four persons one hundred years old ; fifty-seven, one hundred and ten years ; two, one hundred and twenty years ; four, one hundred and thirty years; four, one hundred and thirty-five years; and three, one hundred and forty years each." Mr. Eugene Thompson, in an interesting article on " Longevity," published in SGrihner''s Magazine^ in 1875, writes: "Kow leave sunny Italy and go to inclement Norway. Travellers have there remarked the great temperance, industry, and morality of the people, and their common food is found to be milk, cheese, dried or salt fish, no meat, and oat bread, baked in cakes. An enumeration of the inhabitants of Aggershaus, in Nor- way, in 1763, showed that one hundred and fifty couples had been married over eighty years ; consequently the greater number were aged one hundred or more ; sev- enty couples had been married over ninety years, which would place their ages at about one hundred and ten ; 84 Something about Longevity. twelve couples had been married from one hundred to one hundred and five years, and another couple one hundred and ten years, so tliat this last pair were doubt- less one hundred and thirty years old." Thomas Parr, buried in Westminster Abbey, died in 1655, at the age of one hundred and fifty-two. He lived in Shropshire, England, a place noted for its long- lived people. He was a farmer of extremely abstemious habits, his diet being chiefly milk and coarse bread. He married his second w^ife when one hundred and twenty- two, and worked at the age of one hundred and thirty. He was taken to court in his one hundred and fifty- second year as a curiosity, by the Earl of Arundel, and his life w^as prematurely cut off on account of the change from a parsimonious to a plentiful diet. Two of his grandsons lived to be each one hundred and twenty- seven years old, and a third grandson to be one hun- dred and nine ; and Eobert Parr, a great grandson, died in Shropshire, in 1757, aged one hundred and twenty- four. Mr. Ephraim Pratt, of Shutesbury, Mass., who died at the age of one hundred and seventeen years, lived chiefly on milk, and his son, Michael Pratt, attained the age of one hundred and three by similar means. A study of the subject shows us that great longevity has always been accompanied by abstemiousness in diet ; also, that great eaters never live long. UTENSILS. A Doiible Tin Steamer with double tin cover and copper bottom is invaluable among cooking utensils, es- pecially for making several dishes suitable for the sick. The double tight -fitting cover, perfectly securing the heat, cannot be satisfactorily supplied with any impro- vised cover. The steamer is also a valuable utensil as a hain marie ; i. e., for keeping any cooked dish hot. DOUBLE TIN STEAMER. For this purpose the steamer containing hot (not boil- ing) water is kept at the back of the range. The double cover and the hot - water lining protect soup, vegetables, sauce, oysters, or any dish placed inside. The flavor of a dish is almost perfectly preserved when kept in this manner. 86 Utensils. This steamer is especiiiUj useful for making Boston brown -bread, Graham pudding, farina pudding, cus- tards, etc. The Earthen Crock (see page 129) is recommended for cooking grains (oat-meal, etc.), apple sauce, the fruit compotes, etc. This crock must be heated gradually, when there is little danger of breaking. A Copper Saucepan. — This is rather an expensive utensil, but when once used it will be considered in- dispensable. This is on account of being able to cook with it materials which scorch readily, viz., articles with milk, cracked wheat, or any of the grains, sauces, etc., which are improved by simmering, with almost no danger of burning. The same materials could be cooked in a new porcelain kettle or earthen crock ; but iron or tin saucepans — in fact, any kind — do not preserve the same even, regular heat as those made of copper. As porcelain kettles are not durable, th- copper saucepans at last are cheaper. They will lasi forever. However, special care should be taken, if Meat -juice Press ^ Porcelain DucTc^ etc. 87 the copper is exposed inside, to have them at once retinned. Meat -juice Press — for ex- tracting the juice from meat. The meat — a thick steak cut from the round of beef prefer- able — is broiled merely enough to become well heated through. It is then cut into pieces an inch or less square, and put into the press, .which has been pre- viously heated by inserting both cup and cover into hot water. Juicy meat will yield nearly half its weight in liquid. An equal quantity of warm water is often added to the meat juice, and all should be very lightly seasoned. It can be reheated before giving it to the patient, although it should not reach the boiling-point, for regg whisk. OTHER SOUPS. Stock for Soup. A good stock may be made by simply putting fresh lean beef or veal, with some bone, into clear, cold wa- ter (a gallon of water to three pounds of meat and bone), and let it simmer for five hours, passing it through the sieve, and seasoning it carefully with pepper and salt. It is better to make the stock the day before it is want- ed, as then every particle of fat will rise to the top, and form in a hard cake, which can be removed at once, and the settlings can be avoided at the bottom, leaving a clear soup. There should never be a particle of fat left in a soup. The flavor of the soup is much improved by a chick- en addition. Occasion might be taken, at the time of making beef or veal stock, to have a boiled chicken for dinner, boiling it in the stock-pot. The flavor is also much improved by the addition of vegetables thrown Gouffe's Beceijpt for Stoclc or Bouillon. 165 in an hour before the stock is done. Four or five slices of onion, first fried {sauted) or colored in a little drip- ping on a platter before adding to the soup ; also, the same quantity of sliced carrot, two good sprigs of parsley, and, if you have it, a stick of celery or a teaspoonful of celery-seeds, and a couple of cloves stuck in the onion. All contribute to the quality of the soup. In winter enough stock ought to be made to last a week, as it will keep that time and longer in a cold place. Each day a portion of the stock jelly can be re- heated, and, with different accompaniments, the invalid can have many changes. For instance, the addition of a few spoonfuls of cooked macaroni will make a good macaroni soup. A spoonful of cooked pease and other vegetables, in fancy shapes, would make a spring soup (or Julienne) \ a few spoonfuls of cooked tomatoes a tomato soup ; toasted bread sippets, in fanciful shapes, 2ijpotage aux croutons. The stock, added to the cream soups, furnishes a dish for the most fastidious epicure, and a nutritious repast for the invalid. In selecting the meat for soups cheap cuts from the leg and shoulder of beef are generally used. Ox-tails make good soup. Knuckles of veal, calf-heads, and tough chickens play a satisfactory role in stock. The meat, afterwards, can be made into palatable side dishes in the way of croquettes, etc. I will give Gouife's receipt for stock, showing the distribution of vegetables, as follows : Gouffe's Eeceipt fok Stock or Bouillon. Three pounds of beef ; one pound of bone (about the quantity in that weight of meat) ; five and a half quarts of clear, cold water ; two ounces of salt ; two carrots, say ten ounces; two large onions, say ten ounces, with two cloves stuck in them ; six leeks, say fourteen 166 Other Soups. ounces ; one head of celery, saj one ounce ; two tur- nips, say ten ounces ; one parsnip, say two ounces. Oyster Soup. To one quart, or twenty-five oysters, add a half-pint of water. Put the oysters on the fire in their liquor. TJie moment it begins to simmer (not boil, for that would shrivel the oysters), pour it through a colander into a dish, leaving the oysters in the colander. Now put into the saucepan two ounces of butter (size of an Ggg) when it bubbles, sprinkle in a heaping tablespoon- f ul (one ounce) of sifted flour ; let the roux cook a few moments, without coloring ; stirring it well with the egg whisk, add to it gradually the oyster juice, and half a pint or a cupful of good cream (which has been brought to a boil in another vessel) ; season carefully with Cayenne pepper and salt. Skim well, then add the oysters. Let it get hot without boiling and serve immediately. Clam Bkoth. This broth is much used of late years for invalids. Indeed, in New York it seems to be as standard a sick- room dish as beef tea. It can often be retained on the stomach when other foods disagree with the patient, and is a valuable substitute for milk, when that proves unsat- isfactory. It is stimulating and nutritious. It can be administered by the spoonful, like beef tea, in cases of severe illness, or can be taken by the cupful, when, with a Graham cracker, it affords a hearty repast for others. For half a pint (a cupful) use six large hard-shelled clams. Wash them well with a brush, and place them in a kettle with two or three tablespoonfuls of water over the fire. Clam Soup. — Flour Soup. 167 The clam broth is simplj the juice of the clam boiled for a minute. It does not require seasoning, as clam juice is salt enough ; indeed, it has sometimes to be a little diluted with hot water to 'reduce the salt flavor. In pouring the juice from the kettle, avoid any parti- cles of sand which may have settled at the bottom. As soon as the clams are opened in the kettle tliey are sufficiently cooked; further cooking renders them tough. If Clam Soup is to be made, remove the clams from the shells as soon as they have opened, cut off the tough parts, and place them one side in a warm place, until the juice is prepared. Add about a cupful of hot milk to the juice, and thicken it with a roux, or a little flour. Now add the soft parts of the clams, bring the soup again to the boiling-point and serve. Placing the live clams over the fire is a very cruel way to open them. Men -cooks and fishermen open them with a knife, a half-dozen in the course of half a minute. Flour Soup. Put butter, size of a large hickory nut, into a little saucepan, and, when it bubbles, throw in a heaping table- spoonful of flour (a generous ounce). Stir it well w^ith the egg whisk, allowing it to color evenly to a light brown. Take care that it does not burn. Now gradually pour in a pint of warm milk, stirring it well with the egg whisk. There should be no lumps. Let it cook for a minute only, when take it from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an egg. Keturn it to the fire for a few moments to set the egg^ stirring well, and not allowing it to boil, as the egg would then curdle. Season with 168 Other Soujps, salt, a suspicion of red pepper, and a half teaspoonful of parsley chopped very line. French cooks often add the same quantity of chopped elves, but the latter we will not recommend for our invalid. It can be served with or without little toasts of bread, cut in thin slices and fanciful shapes before toasting. The French and Germans often flavor " Soupe a la Farine" with a little sugar and cinnamdn instead of salt, pepper, and parsley or cives. DISHES OF RICE. To Boil Rice. Foe a teacnpfnl of the boiled rice place a quart of clear water over the fire, and, when it Soils hard, throw in two ounces, or two tablespoonfuls, of rice which has been previously well washed in cold water. Throw in also a teaspoonful of salt. Take off any scum that rises. In twenty minutes press some of the grains be- tween the fingers, and if quite soft it is cooked enough. Do not cook the grains until they become broken. When done, pour the rice into a sieve to drain off the water; return the rice grains to the dry saucepan ; cover them partly, and set them at the side of the fire to steam and dry. To Boil Rice in Milk. Bring one pint of milk to a boil, when stir in two tablespoonfuls of well-washed rice and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt ; pour it into a basin, cover it well, and place it in the oven to bake for an hour ; or it may be cooked in the double saucepan. In a copper sauce- pan it could be boiled at the top of the range without burning, when it would be cooked in about twenty minutes. Rice May be served with many dishes; for instance, in a circle around chicken, fried (spring chicken) or boiled, or cold chicken dice stewed, with white or brown sauce poured over both the rice and chicken ; or it 170 Dishes of llice. may be served in the same manner with sweetbreads, or with stewed fruits, apples, peaches, pears, etc. EicE AND Geavy. Fresh boiled rice wet with the juice from roast beef or mutton (free from fat) and served on a piece of toast. Rice Cones. Cook tlie rice in eitlier milk or water, and while liot pour it into cups (which have previ- ously been dipped , in cold water) fill- ing them about three fourths full. When cold and ready to serve, turn them out, arranging them uni- formly on a platter; or, for our invalid, turn one into a small oval platter, or a saucer. Scoop out a little of the rice from the top of each cone, and put in its place any kind of jelly. Pour in the bottom of the dish a hot brandy sauce (see page 189), or hot sweet sauce of any kind, provided it is not flavored with vanilla. A Plain Rice Pudding. The manner of making this most delicious and plain- est of puddings was taught me by a most able chef (Louis ]3ertholon). The flavor is quite remarkable, con- sidering that it is almost as simple as plain boiled rice. For an invalid choose a little pudding dish holding about a pint. Put in a heaping tablespoonful of un- cooked rice, fill the dish with boiling milk, and place it in the oven. Let it cook, stirring it once or twice (to prevent lumping) for about lialf an hour; then take it out and mix in a tablespoonful of sugar and half a tea- Rice Pudding. 171 spoonful of essence of lemon, or the tliin, yellow cuts (without any white) of the rind of half a lemon, or with jleur d^ Orange., or a sprinkling of nutmeg, or, indeed, any flavoring preferred, excepting vanilla, which is too unwholesome for invalids ; return the dish to the oven, cooking altogether two hours, or one and a half hours, if the oven is quite hot. As the milk boils down more hot milk should be added (keeping the dish always tilled) by lifting the skin and pouring in the milk at the side, or by removing the skin and allowing a new one to form. The dish will require about one and a half pints of milk. KicE Pudding (No. 2). Another successful pudding, where every grain of rice lies in a creamy bed. Ingredients: One cupful of boiled rice (better if fresh cooked and hot); three cupfuls of milk; three fourths of a cupful of sugar; one tablespoonful of cornstarch ; two eggs ; flavoring ; or half these ingredi- ents for a pint pudding dish. Dissolve the cornstarch tirst with a little milk, and then stir in the remainder of the milk. Bring this to a boil, when take it from the fire, and, when slightly cooled, stir in the rice and the yolks of the eggs beaten well with the su- gar. Return this to the fire (there is less risk of burn- ing in a custard kettle) and stir until it begins to thicken like boiled custard, watching it carefully not to let it boil or curdle. ISTow, again, remove it from the fire, add the flavoring, say a scant tcaspoonful of lemon ex- tract, and pour it into a pudding dish. Spread over the top the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, with a little sugar and flavoring added. Or, with the 172 Dishes of Rice. aid of a cone of writing-paper, decorate the top with a fanciful design, ol la meringue. Give it a delicate color in the oven. To be eaten either hot or cold. KicE A l'Imperateice (Louis Cuppinger). Place over the fire one pint and a half of milk, and the thin yellow cuts of the rind of a lemon, and, when it boils, stir in half a teacupful of rice, and an even salt- spoonful of salt. When cooked (in about twenty minutes) stir in carefully half a cupful of sugar and a few drops of es- sence of lemon, or two or three spoonfuls of rum, or any flavoring. The rice should be rather moist when cooked. Spread it on a platter to get quite cold, then stir in carefully a half -pint of cream, whipped to a froth, and the fourth of a box of gelatine dissolved in a scant half cupful of water. To dissolve the gelatine, add it to the cold water, then set it for fifteen or twenty minutes in a warm place. Mould the rice. For the invalid it may be moulded in a teacup, or in one of the pretty little fancy moulds, which come of all sizes. Rice Pudding a la Guillod. Ingredients : a scant half cupful of rice ; one pint of water; one cupful (half-pint) of milk; butter size of a hickory-nut; one tablespoonful of sugar; four eggs; salt; flavoring, say a scant teaspoonful of lemon extract, or two or three tablespoonfuls of rum. When the water (salted) is at the boiling-point add the rice, and cook it twenty-five minutes ; then add the milk (hot) ; cook it ten minutes longer ; then add the Currant or Plum Jelly Sauce. VIZ butter, sugar, lemon, and well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Stir this for a few moments over the tire to set the eggs, without allowing it to boil. This batter can be stirred with a spoon for the purpose of partly breaking up the grains of rice, or it may be passed through a sieve ; either way is very good. When the batter is entirely cold stir in dexterously the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and put it immediately into a buttered double boiler (page 85), or into a long tin pail which can be covered, and set into a pot of boiling water, the water reaching about three fourths to the top. A. weight should be placed on top of the tin pail to keep it from turning. Cook about three quarters of an hour. Turn out careful- ly on a platter, and serve with currant or plum jelly sauce. This receipt is made by my most able cook, Louise Guillod, who for six years has relieved me of all re- sponsibility of the cuisi7ie. CUKEANT OK PlUM JeLLY SaUCE. Stir two dessertspoonfuls of currant jelly (a scant third of a cupful) and two tablespoonfuls of sugar into one and a half cupfuls of cold water. It is sometimes difficult to dissolve the jelly. Bring it to a boil, then add a teaspoonful of either cornstarch or flour for a thickening, first rubbed smooth in a little cold water ; let it cook two or three minutes. To be served cold. A KicE Dish (to be served as a vegetable). Mix carefully (not to break the grains) in a pint of boiled rice a tablespoonful of either minced parsley or cives ; put a piece of butter size of a pigeon's Qgg into a saucepan, and let it color a light brown ; mix the rice in the butter, and serve hot as a vegetable. A little mound of this rice may be placed in the centre of a platter, with a row of green pease around it. CREAMS AND FRUITS. "Whipped Ckeam. There is no more wholesome, nutritious, and delicious dessert for an invalid than whipped cream, either served simply with a wafer biscuit or some very thin slices of sponge cake (cake not very allowable) around to form a charlotte-russe, or with a stewed pear, peach, apple, or some wine jelly for a centre. No better ice-cream can be made than the simple one of wdiipped cream frozen. The cream (thick) is sweet- ened and flavored with any of the flavoring extracts (except vanilla) or any of the sweet wines or liquors. It is delicious merely sweetened. The cream froths more readily when quite cold. The cream-whipper is recommended, yet, without this, vigorous whipping with a silver fork will accomplish the result. The froth, as it rises, is to be skimmed ofl: and placed on a sieve ; that in the dish below is returned to be re whipped. Place the cream f rotli, as soon as all whipped, on the ice, to re- main until served. Clabbeeed Milk (Dr. Gatchell). Set a quantity of skimmed milk away in a covered glass or china dish. When it turns, i. e., becomes smooth, Arm, and jelly-like, it is ready to serve. Do not let it stand until the whey separates from the curd, or it will become acid or tough. Set it on the ice for an hour be- fore wanted for use. Serve from the dish in which it Cottage Cheese. — Ice-cream, 175 has turned. Cut out carefully with a large spoon, put in saucers, and eat with cream and nutmeg. This is one of the most wholesome of dishes, and those to whom it is new soon acquire a taste for and grow fond of it. To be relished the clabber must be new and fresh. It is generally eaten with cream, sugar, and sometimes nut- meg. The clabbered milk is an excellent diet for some dys- peptics ; however, they should not eat it with sugar. In case the clabbered milk is not agreeable at first, begin with a small quantity — a tablespoonful at a time — and gradually a taste for this very useful food can be ac- quired. Some prefer taking it as a drink, beating it up until it becomes creamy. Cottage Cheese. Cottage cheese is made of the curd left after sepa- rating the whey from clabbered milk. Tie the clabbered milk in a cloth, hang it (for in- stance overnight) and let the whey drain out. Or, place a pan of clabbered milk over a kettle of boiling water until the whey becomes merely hot. If the pan is placed directly on the range, let the whey be- come merely hot and no more. The boiling-point would spoil the cheese by making it tough. The whey is then pressed from the curd and the latter is mixed with cream or butter, or both, and salt, making the cheese rather moist, yet firm enough to mould into balls. Ice-cream and Iced Peaches. Sometimes ice-cream is given to a patient suffering with a fever or inflammation of the stomach. The sim- plest and richest ice-cream is pure cream sweetened to taste, and flavored ys\\\\ fleur d' orange, extract of lemon, or a very little sherry (never vanilla), and frozen. It is 176 Creams and Fruits. still better to whip it and freeze the whipped cream. If it is desirable that the cream be not so rich, a simple frozen boiled custard is very good. The custard is made by adding the yolks of two or three eggs, wxll beaten, with a tablespoonful of sugar to a pint of fresh milk. This is stirred in a double boiler, or in a tin pail placed in a second vessel containing boil- ing water, until it just begins to thicken. It is then re- moved at once (to prevent curdling) and seasoned as just described for whipped cream. The iced custard is im- proved by stirring in it, when partly congealed in the freezer, more or less whipped cream. However, this adds again to its richness. Chopped peaches or grated pineapple could also be added at this time. A mixture of sweetened fresh peaches, pared, stoned, and quartered, with or without cream mixed with them, and frozen in a mould (without stirring the mixture) is also a most delicious dish for a febrile sufferer. I have never tasted canned peaches or pears frozen in this way, but think they might be satisfactory if the fruit were especially good. Baked Apples, etc. Nothing is more simple, wholesome, and palatable than a baked apple served with cream and sugar. The canned peaches are generally heavy for an invalid ; and, by the way, tin -canned tomatoes and acid fruits are forbidden entirely by many physicians, the tin having a deleterious effect on the acid of the vegetable or fruit. Baked apples are prepared as follows : With a sharp- pointed knife, or an apple-corer, remove the cores with- out breaking the apples. Set them in a pan just large enough to hold them. Fill the apertures with sugar, and for a change a small stick of cinnamon, or the thin, Apple Sauce. — Pear Compote. 177 yellow slices of lemon rind can be inserted also. Pour a half cnpful of water into the pan and bake the apples until tender. They are oftener cooked without cover, yet are very good covered with a basin and allowed to cook in the steam. For a change the apples may be pared. Serve with cream and sugar. Baked apples and stewed prunes are probably the most wholesome sweetmeats for an invalid, and can be served at any meal. Apple Sauce. Apples (pippins especially good), neatly and evenly quartered (having already been pared and cored) are placed in a porcelain pan with enough cold water to barely cover them. Sugar to taste is added, and per- haps some raisins, sometimes slices of lemon, some- times a few sticks of cinnamon, each or all, are added. Cook them slowly, and the moment the apple quarters are tender when pierced with a fork, they are done, ready to be poured into some pretty glass dish, and al- lowed to get cold before serving. Sometimes the apple is stirred into a half puree, or pulp, and sometimes it is passed through the sieve. A good apple sauce is made by adding to the apple which has been passed through the sieve, and sweet- ened to taste, the beaten whites of eggs just before it is served — say the wliites of two eggs stiffly beaten, to a pint of apple pulp. Pear or other Fruit Compote. A compote is merely the fruit (pear, peach, apple, plum, etc.) boiled whole with only enough water to cover it, and sweetened to taste. The fruit is only cooked until tender. Pears are generally selected for compotes when not quite ripe. The California dried pears, stewed until tender, and 8* 178 Creams and Fruits. sweetened to taste, are most excellent for our invalid when the fresh pears cannot be obtained. Compotes are often served with a circle of rice (boiled in milk) around, or the rice may be in the centre and the fruit placed around it. Sea-moss Blanc-mange. Wash one and a half ounces of Iceland or Irish moss in cold water, then place it over the fire in a cupful (one half pint) of fresh, cold water. Stir it occasionally until soft ; add then one and a half cupfuls of warm milk and three lumps of sugar. Place the little sauce- pan containing these ingredients into a second larger saucepan half filled with boiling water, and let the wa- ter boil until the moss is entirely dissolved. Pour this into teacups or little moulds previously wet with cold water. Turn them from the moulds when hardened and ready to serve, and serve each mould with three or four tablespoon fuls of cream poured around, and, per- haps, a preserved strawberry half buried on top ; or a fruit compote of any kind can be poured around the blanc-mange. CoRNSTAKCii Blanc-mange. Allow three tablespoonfuls, or three quarters of a cupful, of Diiryea's cornstarch to a quart of milk. Stir enough of the cold milk into the cornstarch to make a soft, smooth paste ; bring the remainder of the milk to the boiling-point, stir in the paste, and boil it about three minutes, taking care that it does not burn. Pour CharloUe-russe, 179 it into cups or moulds previously wet with cold water, and set it in a cold place to harden. Serve with sweet- ened cream or a little soft-boiled custard, and a couple of preserved strawberries for a garnish. CiTARLOTTE-EUSSE. The charlotte -russe made after this receipt is un- doubtedly one of the very best ever made. Bring a cupful, or half a pint, of milk almost to the boiling-point, and then stir in the yolks of four eggs, previously well beaten, with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir this carefully over the fire (in a double kettle) making a boiled custard. Care must be taken that it does not curdle, or become too thick. Take it from the fire and add to it a quarter of a boxful of gelatine, previously soaked with enough milk to cover it in a cup, and dissolved, by setting it at the side of tlie fire. Add also, when the custard is a little cooled, two or three tablespoonfuls, of best sherry wine for a flavoring. Set this custard on ice, or in a cold place, until partly congealed, and then stir into it, evenly and carefully, a quart of cream whipped to a stiff froth. This can be poured into either a charlotte pan, or little paper cases (page 153), lined with lady-fingers, or into a pretty glass dish with a row of lady -fingers around the sides, and then it is served in the same disli. If sponge cake is objectionable for the invalid, the creamy custard, which is simple and wholesome enough for almost any one, can be served alone, in the paper cases. CUSTARDS. Plain Baked Custakd (very good). A PLAIN custard may be made with a pint of milk, either two whole eggs or the yolks of three eggs, and a couple of tablespoonf uls of sugar. It can be flavored with a little nutmeg or extract of lemon. It is very good without flavoring. The eggs and sugar are well beaten together before the milk is added. It is poured into a small pudding dish or basin, and this is set in a larger basin containing hot water, which reaches three fourths to the top of the pudding dish. The two vessels, one in the other, are then placed in the oven until the cus- tard is set (about twent}^ minutes). As soon as it is set it is done, and should not be left to allow the whey to separate. This is the very best way to bake custards. CusTAED A LA MoERisoN (a dclicious custard). Make a boiled custard with a pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs (if small), and a tablespoonful of sugar. The yolks and sug- ar are beaten to- gether, the milk added when warm, and the whole cooked in the double boiler. It must be stirred constantly while cooking, and the in- stant watched when it is of exactly the right thickness, Custards, 181 resembling rather thick cream. If allowed to remain a moment too long it curdles and is spoiled. A c^^^ tells me, however, that if a custard or puree soup begins to curdle it can be stopped by pouring in quickly a little cold milk or water, and stirring very regularly for a few minutes. When the smooth boiled custard is cold.f and flavored with anything but vanilla, the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, are mixed in smoothly with the egg whisk. "The top of the custard may be decorated with a little of the egg froth mixed with a little bright red jelly, with the aid of a paper funnel or meringue decorator, or the white, for decorating, may be stirred with zest, or thin slices of lemon peel (without white), and slightly sweetened. This will give a delicate green color to the meringue as well as a delicious flavor. The lemon strips are to be removed. The custard should be served soon after the beaten white of the egg is mixed in, as the egg froth is not cooked. Tapioca ok Sago Custaed is merely an addition to a plain custard (before it is baked) of more or less tapioca or sago after it has been soaked an hour or more in hot water. The two following are from Gouffe's "Keceipts for the Sick," called by him '' Petit pot de creme^ au cafe^'' and ''''Au chocolate It may not taste as well under the common name of A Cup of Coffee Custakd. Beat well in a coffee cup or small fancy pudding dish the yolks of two fresh eggs and a teaspoonful of sugar. Then mix into it four tablespoonfuls each of fresh- made, clear coffee, and milk. Set the cup into a basin 182 Custards. of liot water so that the water will reach nearly to the top of the cup; put this into the oven and cook about fifteen minutes, or until the custard is set without cur- dling. To be served hot or cold. A Cup of Chocolate Custakd. Put a heaping teaspoonful of grated chocolate with two tablespoonf uls of milk, and stir it over the fire until perfectly smooth; then add six tablespoonfuls of rich milk, and also the yolks of two eggs which have been well beaten, with a teaspoonful of sugar. Cook the same as coffee custard, and serve either hot or cold. Granulated ob Ceushed Barley, Oat, or Wheat Custard. The grain is thrown into salted boiling water and cooked fifteen or twenty minutes, or until thoroughly done. It is then drained, and a few tablespoonfuls (the custard should not be too thick with the grain) are added to a plain baked custard (page 180), before it is baked. Or the cooked grain can be substituted for rice in rice pudding No. 2 (page 171). Rennet Custard. A very palatable and digestible dish for an invalid. Sweeten some milk to taste ; place it over the fire until lukewarm ; remove it from the fire and mix in it thoroughly some liquid rennet (it comes prepared for custards, and can be purchased at the druggist's), in the proportion of a tablespoonful of rennet to a quart of milk, in summer — perhaps a very little more rennet in winter. Let the milk stand lukewarm until a quite con- sistent curd is formed, then put it in a cold place until served. The milk should be prepared in the dish in which it Caramel Custards. 183 is to be served ; for, if it is disturbed, the wliey will sepa- rate, which must be avoided. It is served with a little cream, or whipped cream poured over, and perhaps gar- nished with a preserved strawberry or two on top. Sometimes the milk might be flavored with a very little brandy, rum, curagoa, or maraschino before the ren- net is added. Caramel Custard. Make the caramel by putting two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a teaspoonful of water over the fire and stirring it until it gets a quite dark brown — not black; then add a dessertspoonful of water. It will make a thick syrup. Pour this into the bottom of two cups or little fancy moulds, and turn it around until it covers the bottom and sides. For the custard, beat well three eggs (yolks and whites), with a teaspoonful of white sugar and the very thin yellow cuts of a lemon ; then stir in a cupful of milk or thin cream which has been brought to the scald- ing-point (not boiling) over the fire. Fill the cups or moulds (previously lined with the caramel) with the custard; place them in a basin of hot water, the water reaching nearly to the top of the moulds, and bake them in the oven until the custard is set, or feels firm to the finger — no longer. They will set in twelve or fifteen minutes. The custards may be served either hot or cold — although they are generally served cold — turned from the mould when just ready to be served. JELLIES. Wine Jelly. Ingeedients : One box of gelatine, soaked in one pint of clear, cold water, one pint of wine, the juice and the thin cuts of the rinds of three lemons, one and a quarter pounds of sugar (or according to taste), one quart of clear boiling water, the whites of two eggs (well beat- en) and the shells, and a small stick of cinnamon. Soak the gelatine in the pint of cold water an hour, then pour over it the quart of boiling water, stirring it well ; now add the wine, sugar, lemon juice (strained in a fine strainer), and the thinnest possible cuts from the peels of the lemons. These cuts take only the little globules of oil in the peel, which are exceedingly deli- cate in flavor, the white being bitter. Add, also, the small stick of cinnamon, as it adds much to the flavor of the jelly. Put this into a porcelain kettle; let it boil rapidly about a quarter of a minute without stirring it ; now, setting the kettle on the hearth, let it remain another half-minute to settle ; then skim off carefully the scum which is on the top, and pour it through the jelly-bag. It should be entirely clear ; if, however, the first should not be so, return it to the bag. Cold water should be poured into the moulds, then emptied just be- fore using. Jelly hardens much quicker on ice, or in the coolest place to be found. Dip the moulds into warm water a moment before taking out the jelly. If al- lowed to remain a moment too long the jelly might dis- solve too much and injure the form. Wine, Coffee, and Currant Jellies. 185 Many kinds of wines and liquors may be used. The above receipt is well-proportioned for sherry, cham- pagne, madeira, or port. A smaller proportion of bran- dy, maraschino, noyau, or of punch would make suffi- cient flavoring. Wine Jelly (without cooking). Ingredients : one pint (two cnpfuls) of wine ; one pint of sugar; one pint of cold water; one pint of boiling water ; half a package of gelatine ; two lemons. Add the gelatine to the clear, cold water, and let it soak for an hour or more ; dissolve the sugar in the hot water, and when it is boiling stir it into the soaked gel- atine; add the strained lemon juice and the thin, yel- low cuts of the peel, and, when all is dissolved, the wine. Strain through a flannel cloth or bag or a napkin, with- out pressing it. If in a hurry for the gelatine, it will dissolve quicker if set in a warm place. In hot weather it is advisable to use a little more gelatine than in cold weather, or as in receipt. If brandy or rum is used, half the quantity mentioned for wine would be taken, or enough could be poured in to suit the taste. Coffee Jelly. Soak three quarters of a box of gelatine (either Cox's or Cooper's, or ten sheets of the common gelatine) in a pint of cold water until dissolved ; then add a pint of boiling water, two cupfuls of sugar, and one pint of clear, strong (so the chef said) coffee. But the coffee need not be so very strong. Mould it. Surround cof- fee jelly, when on the platter ready to be served, with whipped cream. CuKEANT Jelly. Pick out the leaves from the currants, but it is not 186 Jellies and Preserms. necessary to be particular about all the stems. Mash the currants with a potato masher, and cook them enough to merely free the juice, without adding any water. Strain the juice, and allow one pound of sugar for one pound of juice. Boil the juice fifteen minutes after measur- ing it, and then take it from the fire, and add the sugar, allowing it to dissolve without further boiling or cook- ing of the juice. When the sugar is well dissolved and mixed in the juice, pour it into glasses. Fasten over the covers when the jelly has hardened. Currants should not be picked just after a rain. CUEEANT PeESEEVES. Allow one pound of sugar to one pound of currants. Free the currants from the stems, and cook them fifteen minutes ; then add the sugar and a few raisins, and, as soon as it comes to the boiling-point again, seal them tightly in glass jars. Oeange Maemalade. This marmalade furnishes one of the best and cheap- est comfitures which can be made in the large cities, and a very little of it, used for garnishing a blanc-mange, etc., or for spreading on bread-and-butter, is not un- wholesome for a convalescent. It is made in January or February, when oranges are cheap, and the expense will not be over fifteen or twenty cents a glass. Allow one lemon to six oranges. Quarter the skins, and boil them slowly two hours and a half ; then scrape out the soft pulp from the inside to be thrown away, and cut the outside skins into shreds. Squeeze all the juice possible from the fruit ; weigh the juice and skin shreds together, and allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. When the fruit and sugar are mixed, let them simmer for an hour. If one prefer, Strawberry Preserves. 187 the whole pulp of the fruit may also be added. It does not make so. clear a preserve, yet it is added in the Dundee marmalade. Stkawberry Pkbserves. Allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Let the sugar simmer twenty minutes, adding perhaps a tablespoonful of water to start it; then add the strawberries ; let them come merely to a boil ; then cover, and place them at the back of the range to steam 1^YQ minutes. Put them into glass jars while still scald- ing hot, and seal them hermetically. PUDDINGS, ETC. Corn Cottage Pudding. Ingredients: One cupful of cornmeal flour; half a cupful of sugar ; one cupful of milk ; one tablespoonful of lard (size of small egg) ; three eggs ; one teaspoonf ul of baking-powder ; a little salt. Mix the baking-powder and salt well into the flour, then add the sugar and yolks of the eggs w^ell beaten to- gether), tlie lard (melted), and lastly the milk, and the whites of the eggs which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Mix this smoothly, pour it immediately into a buttered round tin basin and bake about twenty minutes. Take care to have the cake baked just in time to be served. It is to be eaten hot with a liquid sauce. The following is a simple one. Plain Pudding Sauce. Ingredients: One pint of water (two cupfuls); three fourths of a cupful of sugar; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; a tablespoonful of either cornstarch or flour ; flavoring of either brandy, rum, lemon, or wine (with or without a little nutmeg), or zest and cinnamon. When the water boils, stir in the cornstarch or flour (rubbed smooth with a little cold water) and also the sug- ar. Boil it well for four or five minutes, to thoroughly cook the cornstarch or flour. Take it then from the fire, and stir in the butter and flavoring. This is a good-enough plain sauce ; it is improved, Graham-flour Pudding. — Farina Pudding. 189 however, by adding the well-beaten whites of one or two eggs, and stirring it well with the eg^ w^hisk for a minute over the fire to set the ^gg and make the sauce quite smooth. Geaham-floue Pudding. Ingredients : One and a half cupf uls of Graham flour ; half a cupful of molasses ; a fourth of a cupful of but- ter ; half a cupful of sweet milk ; one egg ; an even tea- spoonful of soda ; three quarters of a cupful of English currants, or raisins (or mixed). Into the flour pour the molasses, the butter partly melted, the egg (beaten), and the fruit. Mix all evenly together, then add the soda, dissolved in the milk. Steam two and a half or three hours. A double tin pail (see cut, p. 85) is best adapted for steaming. The water in it should be boiling when the pudding is first placed in it, and when it needs replen- ishing lolling water should be added, so that it should at no time stop boiling. Serve with plain sauce (see page 188). Fakina Pudding. Ingredients: One pint of milk; three quarters of a coffee-cupful of farina; half a cupful of sugar; butter the size of an egg ; the thin yellow cuts of the peel of a lemon ; four eggs. When the milk is just boiling add the farina, and af- ter it has cooked a few minutes stir in the sugar, lemon peel, and butter; let it cook slowly half an hour, then take it from the fire, and, when slightly cooled, stir in smoothly the yolks of two eggs. Take out the lemon strips. When the mixture is quite cold, stir in lightly the whites of the four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and put it in a high mould or long tin pail, prepared as 190 Puddings, etc. follows : Butter the inside with a glazing brush, throw in a handful of sugar, and leave in the mould all tlie sugar that will stick to the sides ; tlien add the pudding and place the mould in a basin of water, the water reaching about half or three quarters to the top of the mould. Let it cook {au hain marie) on the top of the range for ten minutes ; then put all (basin of water as well) in the oven to bake for an hour. Serve immedi- ately with currant-jellj sauce or Sauce Burke (page 191). QuioGUE Pudding. Ingredients : Five of the ordinar}^ Boston soda crack- ers, or three fourths of a cupful when rolled ; a quarter of a cupful of flour; two eggs; a generous half cupful of milk. Roll the crackers, stir in the milk, then the flour, and eggs (beaten separately). Cover it tightly in a mould or small tin pail, and boil it half an hour in a large vessel of boiling water. Serve with a hard sauce of butter and sugar rubbed to a cream with nutmeg sprinkled over, or with Sauce Burke or a currant-jelly sauce. How- ever, any of the pudding sauces will answer. Macakoni Pudding is merely a baked custard pudding (page 180) with a quarter or half as much fresh, boiled macaroni added as there is custard. Of course the macaroni is added before the custard is baked. Fine Granulated- wheat Pudding. Ingredients: a scant half cupful of the wheat; one cupful of milk ; two eggs ; butter size of a small hickory nut ; pinch of salt. Bring the milk to a boil, then add the wheat and salt, and cook about five minutes. Take it from the fire, and Sauce Burke. — Swuce Gidllod. 191 add the yolks (beaten) and the butter. Let it get quite cold, then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Place it immediately in the oven, to cook about twenty minutes. In cooking all souffle puddings the oven should be hot, and for the first two or three minutes after the pud- ding is in, the oven-door should be slightly opened, so that the pudding can become evenly heated through, before it begins to rise. The pudding can be served with or without a sauce ; how^ever, a sauce is an im- provement, and the following might be selected. Sauce Bueke (a delicious pudding sauce). Bring a pint of milk to the boiling-point, and tlien stir in a generous teaspoon ful of cornstarch, previously rubbed smooth with a little of the cold milk ; add also a tablespoonful of sugar. Let it cook for two or three minutes to thoroughly cook the starch, and then let the mixture get entirely cold. Flavor it with sherry or any of the flavorings, and just before serving stir in evenly the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiif froth. As the Qg^ froth is not cooked, the sauce will not keep very long at its best, perhaps half an hour. Sauce Guillod. Wliip the whites of two eggs to a very stiff froth ; the froth of one ^gg should more than fill a goblet if properly whipped. In a small saucepan put two table- spoonfuls of granulated sugar, with two tablespoonfuls of water; let it cook without stirring for three or four minutes, or until it forms a syrup, not quite thick enough to candy. It must be w^atched carefully, then add the ^gg froth, which stir in with an Qgg whip quite vigorous- ly for a minute at the side of the fire. Stirring will c:ive the froth a fine ccrain. Take it from the rantre 192 PuddingSy etc, and add enough fresh lemon juice to take away the ex- cessive sweetness of the meririgue. Othek Souffle or Puffed Puddings. The last-named pudding (fine granulated wheat) can be made as w^ell with rice, farina, granulated oats, gran- ulated barley, etc. It is especially good made with crushed barley. The barley must be well boiled in water (twenty minutes) before it is added to the milk, etc. Barley Pudding (simple). Ingredients : Two cupf uls hot milk ; half cupful of barley ; one tablespoonf ul sugar ; a pinch of salt. Into the pint of hot milk stir the barley. Season with a pinch of salt; add a tablespoonf ul of sugar, and place it in the oven for about twenty minutes; stir it oc- casionally until the barley is swelled, then add half a cupful of extra hot milk and let it bake slowly for an hour. Orange Puddings a la Mutreux. Soak a cupful of stale bread in half a cupful of milk until it can be beaten to a pulp ; mix with it the grated rind of one orange, the juice of two, sugar to taste, and the yolks of two raw eggs ; butter six small cups, and set them in a pan of hot water ; then beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, mix them lightly with the other ingredients, partly fill the cups, and bake the pud- dings until the e^g is done, in a moderate oven : about fifteen or twenty minutes will be required; serve the puddings hot. Lemon (health-food) Pie or Pudding. For two pics, rub until smooth two heaping table- spoonfuls of granulated wheat or barley and one table- spoonful of cornstarch (a scant three quarters of a cup- Graham Sponge Cake. 193 ful all together) with six tablespoonf iils (a scant Iialf cup- ful) of cold water. Add to this two cupfuls of boiling water, and let it sitnrner over the fire three or four min- utes, until the flour is thoroughly cooked. Take it off the fire, and when partly cooled add the yolks of three eggs, beaten with one and a half cupfuls of sugar to a froth, a piece of butter the size of a black-walnut, and the grated rind and juice of a large lemon. Bake with un- der crusts, and when done spread over the top the beat- en whites of three eggs, with a heaping teaspoonful of sugar added (after they are beaten), and color in the oven. The pie is much more attractive if the meringue is put on in fancy design, with a paper funnel (made of thick writing-paper and a pin) or the meringue deco- rator. The G2^g froth should be slightly sweetened, and flavored by stirring in the yellow cuts of lemon peel, which are afterwards removed. The lemon peel gives delicate flavor as well as color to the meringue. The pie-paste can be made more wholesome by using very little lard or butter and a small portion of baking- powder. Or, the paste may be made with half Graham flour (sifted) and half white flour, a little baking-pow- der, and mixed with cream. The crust may be rubbed over with a little of the beaten white of an e^g before the custard is added, which will prevent it from soaking into the crust. The custard may be baked in a little pudding dish without pie crust. Graham Sponge Cake. Ingredients: six eggs; three cupfuls sugar ; four cup- fuls flour (sifted Graham flour recommended) ; one cup- ful of cold w^ater; two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; juice and grated rind of half a lemon ; a little salt. Mix the yeast powder and salt well into the flour, 9 194 Puddings^ etc. sifting it once or twice ; stir the yolks and sugar to a froth ; add first to the flonr, etc., the yolks and sugar, and then the egg whites (beaten to a stiff froth), and then the lemon and water. The materials should be all ready, viz., the pans buttered, the flour and sugar sift- ed, the lemon grated, strained, etc., so that no time will be lost in mixing them together and getting them quick- ly into the oven. For robust persons a sponge cake is often covered with a wafer thickness of icing, made by stirring a heap- ing cupful of pulverized sugar into the white of an agg (not previously beaten), and flavored with lemon, va- nilla, or rum, etc. BILLS OF FARE FOR CONVALESCENTS. The following bills of fare are given for the purpose of suggestion, although the diet is a hearty one and only- calculated for patients taking a certain amount of exer- cise and requiring a generous diet. An invalid confined to the bed should be satisfied with very little sweets, and a breakfast or tea consisting only of an oatmeal or farina porridge and cream, cracked wheat and cream, a slice of Boston brown bread, or toast- ed Graham bread and cream, cornmeal mush and milk, rice and milk, poached e^g or raw egg, a plain dish of macaroni, a cream soup, any of the gruels, a custard with Graham bread, a souffle pudding of barley, granulated wheat, Graham flour, etc., any of the rice dishes, or other single dish as simple and nutritious as these, with a simple accompaniment of bread and apple sauce, or fruit compote, and a cup of hot water, grape juice, or fresh koumiss for a beverage. Breakfast (at 8 o'clock). Cracked Wheat Mould and Cream, Bread Sippets, Cup Hot Water with Sugar and Cream (better than tea or coffee.) Dinner (at 1 or 2 o'clock). A Slice of Rare Roast Beef, or Broiled Beefsteak, A Baked Potato, Apple Sauce, A Chocolate Custard. 196 Bills of Fare, Tea (at 6 o'clock). Kice Cone with Hot Sauce, Graham Bread, Grape Juice. Breakfast. A Slice of Boston Brown Bread with Cream poured over, A Poached Egg on Toast, Cup of Hot AVater. Dinner. A Fricassee of Chicken, Potatoes a la Creme, Lettuce dressed with the Sauce of the Fricassee and a few drops of Vinegar, Graham-flour Pudding, Sauce Burke. Tea. A Small Dish of Macaroni and Tomato Sauce, A Pear Compote. Breakfast. Oatmeal Porridge, Oysters on Toast, Cup of Chocolate. Dinner. A Lamb or Mutton Chop with Mashed Potatoes, Spinach on Toast, Macaroni Padding. Tea. Cornmeal Mush and Milk. Breakfast. A Chicken Croquette with Pease around. Milk Toast of Graham Bread, Cup of IJot Water. Bills of Fare, 197 Dinner. Cream of Asparagus, or Rice, Barley, etc., Boiled Fish, Carrots a la Creme, Baked Potatoe, a Banana, Grape Juice. Tea. Barley Pudding, Sauce Burke, Cup of Hot Water. Breakfast. A Sweetbread with Rice around. Cream Sauce, Oatmeal Porridge. Dinner. Boiled Chicken and Macaroni, Stewed Corn, Farina Pudding. Tea. Hard Graham Rolls, Grape Juice, Custard a la 3Iorrison. Breakfast. Boiled Eggs, Baked Apple and Cream. Corn Bread. Dinner. A Breast of Prairie Chicken, Mashed Potatoes, Stuffed Tomatoes,* Corn Cottage Pudding. Tea. Cracked Wheat and Cream. 198 Bills of Fare. Breakfast. Farina Porridge, Fried Mush and Sugar Syrup, Fruit Compote. Dinner. Slice of Roast Mutton, Salad, Potatoes a la Neige^ Rice Souffle (Pudding a la Guillod). Tea. Cup of Chocolate, Granulated Wheat Pudding, Stewed Prunes. Breakfast. Raw Egg (whipped), Cornmeal Pancakes, Sugar Syrup, Sweet Oranges Sliced. Dinner. Clear Soup with Bread Dice, Fried Spring Chicken with a surrounding of Rice or Cauli- flower and Cream Sauce, String-beans, Rice a la Imioeratrice. Tea. Macaroni Croquettes, Tomato Sauce, Graham Bread, Grape Juice. APPENDIX. Extract from an Article on the Effects of Tea and Coffee on the Si/stem J also on Count Rumford's Substitute for Tea, by M. Mattieu Williams. (Published iu Knowledge; republished iu The Popular Science Monthly of De- cember, 18S4.) "Take eight parts by weight (say ounces) of meal (Rum- ford says 'wheat or rye meal,' and I add, or oatmeal), and one part of butter. Melt the butter in a clean iron frying-pan, and when thus melted sprinkle the meal into it ; stir the whole briskly with a broad wooden spoon or spatula till the butter has disappeared and the meal is of a uniform brown color like roasted coffee, great care being taken to prevent burning on the bottom of the pan. About half an ounce of this roasted meal, boiled in a pint of water, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and vinegar, forms ' burned soup,' much used by the wood- cutters of Bavaria, who work in the mountains far away from any habitations. . . . The rye bread, which eaten alone or with cold water would be very hard fare, is rendered palatable and satisfactory, Count Rumford thinks also more wholesome and nutritious, by the help of a bowl of hot soup, so easily prepared from the roasted meal. He tells us that this is not only used by the wood-cutters, but that it is also the common breakfast of the Bavarian peasant, and adds that ' it is infinitely prefer- able, in all respects, to that most pernicious wash, tea, with which the lower classes of the inhabitants of Great Britain drench their stomachs and ruin their constitutions.' He adds that, ' when tea is taken with a sufficient quantity of sugar and good cream, and with a large quantity of bread-and-butter, or with toast and boiled eggs, and, above all, ivhen it is not 200 Appendix. drunk too hot, it is certainly less unwholesome ; but a simple in- fusion of this drug, drunk boiling hot, as the poor usually take it, is certainly a poison, which, though it is sometimes slow in its operation, never fails to produce fatal effects, even in the strongest constitutions, where the free use of it is continued for a considerable length of time." "This may appear to mauy a very strong condemnation of their favorite beverage ; nevertheless, I am satisfied that it is perfectly sound. This is not an opinion hastily adopted, but a conclusion based upon many observations, extending over a long period of years, and confirmed by experiments made upon myself. " The Pall Mall Gazette of August 7th says : ' There is balm for tea -drinkers in one of Mr. Mattieu Williams's "Science Notes" in the GentlemarCs Magazine.'' This is true to a cer- tain extent. I referred to the Chinese as habitual drinkers of boiled water, and suggest that this may explain their com- parative immunity from cholera, where all the other conditions for a raging epidemic are fulfilled. It is the boiling of the water, not the infusion of tea-leaves therein, to which I attrib- ute the destruction of the germs of infection. " In the note which follows, I proposed an infusion of fried or toasted bread crumbs, oatmeal, maize,»wheat, barley, malt, etc., as a substitute for the tea, the deep color of the infusion (poured off from the grounds in this case) serving to certify the boiling of the water. Rumford's burned soup, taken habitually at breakfast or other meals, would answer the same purpose, with the futher advantage to poor people of being, to a certain ex- tent, a nutritious soup as well as a beverage. All that is nutri- tious in porter is in this, minus the alcoholic drug and its vile companion, the fusel-oil. " The experience of every confirmed tea-drinker, when sound- ly interpreted, supplies condemnation of the beverage; the plea commonly and blindly urged on its behalf being, when understood, an eloquent expression of such condemnation. * It is so refreshing ;' * I am fit for nothing when tea-time comes round until I have had my tea, and then I am fit for Ajppendix. 201 anything.' The ' fit-for-nothing ' state comes on at five p. m,, when the drug is taken at the orthodox time, or even in the early morning, in the case of those who are accustomed to have a cup of tea brought to their bedside before rising. With blindness still more profound, some will plead for tea by tell- ing that by its aid one can sit up all night long at brain-work without feeling sleepy, provided ample supplies of the infusion are taken from time to time. *' It is unquestionably true that such may be done ; that the tea-drinker is languid and weary at tea-time, whatever be the hour, and that the refreshment produced by 'the cup that cheers ' and is said not to inebriate, is almost instantaneous. " What is the true significance of these facts? " The refreshment is certainly not due to nutrition, not to the rebuilding of any worn-out or exhausted organic tissue. The total quantity of material conveyed from the tea-leaves into the water is ridiculously too small for the performance of any such nutritive function ; and, besides this, the action is far too rapid, there is not sufficient time for the conversion of even that minute quantity into organized working tissue. The ac- tion cannot be that of a food, but is purely and simply that of a stimulating or irritant drug, acting directly and abnormally on the nervous system. "The five-o'clock lassitude and craving are neither more nor less than the reaction induced by the habitual abnormal stimula- tion ; or otherwise, and quite fairly, stated, it is the outward symptom of a diseased condition of brain produced by the ac- tion of a drug ; it may be but a mild form of disease, but it is truly a disease nevertheless. " The active principle which produces this result is the crys- talline alkaloid, the theine, a compound belonging to the same class as strychnine and a number of similar vegetable poisons. These, when diluted, act medicinally, that is, produce disturb- ance of normal functions as the tea does, and, like theine, most of them act specially on the nervous system ; when concen- trated they are dreadful poisons, very small doses producing death. 202 Appendix. " The non-tea-drinker does not suffer any of these five-o'clock symptoms, and, if otherwise in sound health, remains in steady working condition until his day's work is ended and the time for rest and sleep arrives. But the habitual victim of any kind of drug or disturber of normal functions acquires a diseased condition, displayed by the loss of vitality or other deviation from normal condition, which is temporarily relieved by the usual dose of the drug, but only in such wise as to generate a renewed craving. I include in this general statement all the vice-drugs (to coin a general name), such as alcohol, opium, tobacco (whether smoked, chewed, or snuffed), arsenic, hashish, betel-nut, coca-leaf, thorn-apple, Siberian fungus, mate, etc., all of which are excessively 'refreshing' to their victims, and of which the use may be, and has been, defended by the same argu- ments as those used by the advocates of habitual tea-drink- ing. " Speaking generally, the reaction or residual effect of these on the system is nearly the opposite of that of their immediate effect, and thus larger and larger doses are demanded to bring the system to its normal condition. The non-tea-drinker, or moderate drinker, is kept awake by a cup of tea or coffee taken late at night, while the hard drinker of these beverages scarce- ly feels any effect, especially if accustomed to take it at that time. " The practice of taking tea or coffee by students, in order to work at night, is downright madness, especially when preparing for an examination. More than half of the cases of break- down, loss of memory, fainting, etc., which occur during severe examinations, and far more frequently than is commonly known, are due to this. "I frequently hear of promising students who have thus failed ; and, on inquiry, have learned — in almost every instance — that the victim has previously drugged himself with tea or coffee. Sleep is the rest of the brain ; to rob the hard-worked brain of its necessary rest is cerebral suicide. " My old friend, the late Thomas Wright, was a victim of this terrible folly. lie undertook the translation of the ' Life of Appendix. 203 Julius Caesar,' by Napoleon III., and to do it in a cruelly short time. He fulfilled his contract by sitting up several nights successively by the aid of strong tea or coffee (I forget which). I saw him shortly afterwards. In a few weeks he had aged alarmingly, and had become quite bald ; his brain gave way and never recovered. There was but little difference between his age and mine, and bnt for this dreadful cerebral strain, rendered possible only by the alkaloid (for otherwise he would have fallen to sleep over his work, and thereby saved his life), he might still be amusing and instructing thousands of readers by fresh volumes of popularized archaeological research. *' I need scarcely add that all I have said above ap})lics to cof- fee as to tea, though not so seriously in this country [li^ngland]. The active alkaloid is the same in both, but tea contains, weight for weight, about three times as much as coffee. In this country we commonly use about fifty per cent, more coffee than tea to each given measure of water, and thus get about half as much alkaloid. On the Continent they use about double our quan- tity (this is the true secret of 'coffee as in France'), and thus produce as potent an infusion as our tea. " The above remarks are exclusively applied to the habitual use of these stimulants. As medicines, used occasionally and judiciously, they are invaluable, provided always that they are not used as ordinary beverages. In Italy, Greece, and some parts of the East, it is customary, when anybody feels ill, with indefinite symptoms, to send to the druggist for a dose of tea. From what I have seen of its action on non-tea-drinkers, it ap- pears to be specially potent in arresting the premonitory symp- toms of fever, the fever-headache, etc. " It is strange that any physiologist should claim this dimi- nution of the normal waste and renewal of tissue as a merit, seeing that life itself is the product of such a change, and death the result of its cessation. But, in the eagerness that has been displayed to justify existing indulgences, this claim has been extensively made by men who ought to know better than admit such a plea. " I speak, of course, of the habitual use of such drugs, not of 204 Apjpendix. their occasional medicinal use. The waste of the body may be going on with killing rapidity, as in fever, and then such med- icines may save life, provided always that the body has not become ' tolerant ' of or partially insensible to them by daily usage. I once watched a dangerous case of typhoid fever. Acting under the instructions of skilful medical attendants, and aided by a clinical thermometer and a seconds- watch, I so ap- plied small doses of brandy at short intervals as to keep dov/n both pulse and temperature within the limits of fatal combus- tion. The patient had scarcely tasted alcohol before this, and therefore it exerted its maximum efficacyo I was surprised at the certain response of both pulse and temperature to this most valuable medicine and most pernicious beverage. " The argument that has been the most industriously urged in favor of all the vice-drugs, and each in its turn, is that misera- ble apology that has been made for every folly, every vice, ev- ery political abuse, every social crime (such as slavery, polyga- my, etc.), when the time has arrived for reformation. I cannot condescend to seriously argue against it, but merely state the fact that the widely diffused practice of using some kind of stimulating drug has been claimed as a sufficient proof "of the necessity or advantage of such practice. I leave my readers to bestow on such a plea the treatment they may think it deserves. Those who believe that a rational being should have rational grounds for his conduct will treat this customary refuge of blind conservatism as I do." Mr. Williams, in his article, proceeds to give the views of certain scientists who have defended the use of the alkaloids. He speaks of Liebig's, or rather Nehmen's, theory, which was that the use of tea and coffee retarded the waste of the tissues of the body; also Johnston's theory, "Chemistry of Common Life," that if waste be lessened by the use of tea, less food is required. Mr. Williams says, regarding these theories : "All the popu- lar stimulants and refreshing drugs have two distinct and op- posite actions ; an immediate exaltation, which lasts for a cer- tain period, varying vwith the drug and the constitution of its Appendix. 205 victim, and a subsequent depression proportionate to the primary exaltation, but, as I believe, always exceeding it either in dura- tion or intensity, or both, thus giving as a net or mean result a loss of vitality." RemarTcs on the Influence of Alcoholic Liquors, hy Professor Edward L. Voumans, in " Household Science,^^ and others. " Stimulating Effect of Alcoholic Beverages. — They produce general stimulation ; the heart's action is increased, the circulation quickened, the secretions augmented, the system glows with unusual warmth, and there is a general heightening of the functions. Organs usually below par from debility are brought up to the normal tone, while those which are strong and healthy are raised above it. Thus the stomach, if feeble, for example, from deficient gastric secretion, may be aided to pour out a more copious solvent, which promotes digestion ; or, if it be in full health, it may thus be made to digest more than the body requires. The life of the system is exalted above its standard ; which takes place, not by conferring additional vitality, but by plying the nervous system with a fiery irritant, which provokes the vital functions to a higher rate of action. This is the secret of the fatal fascination of alcohol, and the source of its evil. The excitement it produces is transient, and is followed by a corresponding depression and dragging of all the bodily movements. It enables us to live at an accelerated speed to-day, but it is only plundering to-morrow. By its means we crowd into a short period of intense exhilaration the feelings, emotions, thoughts, and experiences which the Author of our nature designed should be distributed more equally through the passing time. We cannot doubt that God has graduated the flow of these life-currents in accordance with the profoundest harmonies of being and the highest results of beneficence. By habitually resorting to this potent stimulant man violates the providential order of his constitution, loses the voluntary regulation and control of his conduct, inaugu- rates the reign of appetite and passion, and reaps the penal 206 Appendix. consequences in mnltiform suffering and sorrow — for Nature always vindicates herself at last." Prof. Youmans also says, in answer to the question, Is the use of alcohol physiologically economical? "The apologists for the genei'al and moderate use of alcoholic beverages cannot agree among themselves upon any philosophy to suit the case. Dr. Moleshott says, 'Alcohol may be considered a savings-box of the tissues. He who eats little, and drinks a moderate quan- tity of spirits, retains as much in tlie blood and tissues as a per- son who eats proportionally more without drinking any beer, wine, or spirits. Clearly, then, it is hard to rob the laborer, who, in the sweat of his brow, eats but a slender meal, of a means by which his deficient food is made to last him a longer time.' Upon which Dr. Chambers justly remarks, 'This is go- ing rather too far. When alcohol limits the consumption of tissue, and so the requirements of the system, while at the same time a man goes on working, it is right to inquire, whence comes his new strength ? It is supplied by something which is not decomposition of tissue ; by what, then ? Dr. Licbig points out the consequences of that peculiar economy by which the laboring man saves his tissue and the food necessary to re- pair it by the use of liquors : ' Spirits, by their action on the nerves, enable the laborer to make up for deficient power (from insuflScient food) at the expense of his body ; to consume to-day that quantity which ought naturally to have been employed a day later. He draws, so to speak, a bill on his health which must be always renewed, because, for want of means, he can- not take it up ; he consumes his capital instead of his interest, and the result is the inevitable bankruptcy of his body.' "Dr. Moleshott further says, ' When, by habit, the stimulant has become a necessity, an enervating relaxation infallibly fol- lows, as is sometimes mournfully illustrated by less prudent lit- erary men. The stimulant ceases to excite ; the debilitated or- gans have already been indebted to it for all the activity it can give. In this case the victim continues to seek his refuge until dangerous diseases of the stomach cripple the digestive or- gans, the formation of blood and nutrition are disturbed ; and, Appendix. 207 with the digestion, vanish clearness of thought, acuteness of the senses, and the elasticity of the muscles.' " Tendency of Common Wheat Flour to Produce Bright'' s Disease, Diabetes, etc. It is claimed by the health-food manufacturers that "the starch portion of wheat may be compared to the fat of meat, and the gluten portion to the lean meat. This compar- ison is not wanting in scientific accuracy, inasmuch as starch is carbon and fat is carbon, while animal albumen and gluten, or vegetable albumen, are nearly identical nitrogenous substan- ces. If, then, we were to attempt to exist upon the fat, or car- bon, to the exclusion of the lean, or nitrogen, of meat, we should presently discern, by our waning bodily and mental vigor, that we were very imperfectly nourished. The same lack of vital force comes from an excessive use of the vegeta- ble carbons. The disuse of the fat of grain — the starch — de- mands more earnest consideration from the physiologist, be- cause the refined taste instinctively shrinks from the copious use of animal fats, while education, custom, habit, all encourage the increasing and unlimited use of the starch form of carbon. It is not claimed that our ordinary bread-flour is as pure a car- bon, as free from nitrogen, as the clear f.it of meat. The ordi- nary milling processes cannot exclude all the nitrogenous ele- ments from the white flour ; that they do withhold the greater part, as well as all but the merest trace of the organized min- eral constituents, is a simplo chemical fact. We know that the gluten contains phosphorus ... we know that the starch con- tains no phosphorus. We know that the starch-interior of the wheat-berry is nearly barren of minerals, containing consider- ably less than one half of one per cent., while the gluten is found to contain over eleven per cent. The mineral matter is nearly half phosphoric acid, nearly one third potassa, more than one tenth magnesia, with smaller proportions of soda, lime, iron, chloride of sodium, sulphuric acid, and silica. These ele- ments are all demanded in the blood-making processes. ... In 208 Appendix. the use of starch-bread the stomacli is greatly overtaxed in its effort to digest an immense amount of starch, containing an insignificant portion of nitrogenous and mineral elements. The use of starch in excess is the rule in America. If assimilated, it is very liable to induce fatty degeneration of the tissues, and such diseases as depend upon this state. Atheroma of the cerebral arteries, with the attendant fat-globules, the weakened muscular coats, and the tendency to rpptnre and apoplexy, are all concomitants of the starchy diathesis. The essential feature of Bright's disease is fatty infiltration of the kidneys; while diabetes finds its chief allies in bread and potatoes. These formidable diseases may be guarded against by appropriate ali- mentary substances containing the needed proportions of all nutritive elements. But starch undigested is nearly as potent for evil as starch digested. The liver, burdened with white bread and potatoes, seems presently to be deprived of its power, etc. Koumiss. In the Medical Record is an article by Dr. E. F. Brush, of New York, in v^'hich he says : " Historically the study of kou- miss is very interesting. Homer speaks of the koumiss-mak- ing Hippomolgi ; Herodotus tells us that the Scythians de- prived their slaves of sight in order to keep secret the process of making a drink from mares' milk. . . . Marco Polo, the great Venetian traveller, writing a few years later, speaks of koumiss as a common drink, wholesome, nutritious, and posses- sing important medical properties. . . . Pallas, who was sent by the Empress Catherine 11. to visit the less-known portions of her dominions, gave considerable attention to the question of koumiss. Speaking of the Tartar tribes, he says: 'Their wealth consists in herds of mares, the milk of which cannot be manufactured into cheese or butter, and which, owing to the large quantity of sugar it contains, ferments spontaneously. This they undoubtedly discovered by attempting to preserve the milk for a day or two in skin bags. From this step, it is a Appendix. 209 short one to discover that the longer it was kept the more pleasant it became.' Mrs. Guthrie, who visited the Crimea in 1795, writes: 'On stopping at a village the hospitable Tartars brought us a wooden dish of their favorite koumiss. The kou- miss has a sourish-sweet taste, by no means unpleasant to my palate.' Pallas tells us that he met a horde of Tartars who possessed the secret of turning cows' milk into vinous fermenta- tion, or, in other words, into koumiss. Atkinson, in his ' Ori- ental and Western Siberia,' writes: 'On entering a Kirghis yourt in summer, a Chinese bowl holding three pints of kou- miss is presented to each gtiest. It is considered impolite to return the vessel before emptying it, and a good Kirghis is never guilty of this impropriety. They begin to make koumiss in April. The mares are milked into large leathern pails, which are immediately taken into the yourt, and the milk poured into the koumiss bag. The first fourteen days after they begin making this beverage very little of it is drank, but, with fermentation and agitation, it is considered by this time in perfection, when it is drank in great quantities by the wealthy Kirghis.' "In an official report to the Russian government in 1840, Dr. Dahl, after describing the method of manufacturing koumiss, continues: ' Peculiar as is the taste of koumiss, one soon becomes accustomed to it, especially if one tastes it for the first time when thirsty, or after violent exercise. It is then the most pleasant and refreshing of all drinks. ... It is very refreshing and hunger-stilling, without being surfeiting. It only allays hunger without destroying the appetite. One can, without any fear, drink as much as he will — an inconceivable amount — and yet always feel light and well. If one were to drink half the quantity of water, beer, or anything else, especially during the burning heat when one is forced to be on horseback, one would feel over full and heavy. But every cup of koumiss gives new courage and strength. An intoxication such as is produced by- wine never takes place after drinking koumiss, in whatever quantities you may ; the result is a scarcely noticeable exhilara- tion, and this only when it is taken in very considerable quanti- 210 Appendix. tics, or in delicate persons, when it produces an inclination to a refreshino- sleep. . . . Koumiss is, among the nomads, the drink of all children from the suckling upward, the refreshment of the old and sick, the nourishment and greatest luxury of every one. The effect of koumiss shows itself in less than a week in a good nourishment of the whole body, an increase in strength and spirits, and a general feeling of health. The respiration is easier, the voice freer, the complexion brighter. . . . The diseases in which koumiss is beneficial are those where the body must be well nourished without loading the digestive organs. It seems too, that koumiss is specially use- ful in diseases of the lungs, bronchia, and larynx ; I will not assert that it can cure consumption and phthisis, but it suits these conditions better than any other nourishment. It is cer- tain that among the Kirghis consumption and phthisis arc very rare — so, too pneumonia, senile asthma, and dropsy of the chest. Of tubercular consumption, and other phthisis, I have seen no example among the Kirghis.' "Dr. Neftel, who, twenty-three years after the visit of Dr. Dahl, was also sent by the Russian government to the Kirghis Steppe, confirms the observations of his predecessor. ' Scrof- ulosis and rachitis are quite unknown among them ; and, what is still more remarkable, I had opportunity to observe not one single case of lung tuberculosis although I sought for such cases with great attention.' To avoid repetition, I will simply cite one case given by Dr. Neftel relating to koumiss treatment. *The patient, twenty-five years old, had always lived in St. Petersburg. Her physician there, a distinguished diagnostician, found tubercular infiltrations in both superior lobes of the lungs. During two years she coughed continually, with a rauco-prurient expectoration often tinged with blood, and she became very emaciated. All other physicians consulted by the patient con- firmed this diagnosis. . . . The presence of cavities was clear- ly demonstrated, and a hectic fever set in. In this condition the patient, by my advice, left the city, passed the whole sum- mer in the steppe, in a kibitka, and was methodically treated with koumiss. Ecr general condition gradually improved ; she Appendix. 211 returned to the city in the autumn, and the ensuing spring she again commenced the koumiss treatment, and I have hitely re- ceived here at Wtirzburg a letter from her husband, in which he informs me that his wife is completely cured, and coughs no longer.' " Dr. Brush further adds that a recent article on koumiss has been written by Dr. Campbell, of Mount Vernon, N. Y., in the American Journal of Obstetrics^ Oct., 1880. His observations are limited to the study of koumiss in cholera infantum. lie reasons as follows : " In a severe case of choleraic diarrhoea we derive but little aid from medication, the primary cause of the disorder being the food put into the child's stomach. These cases occur almost exclusively among fed children. Our aim is chiefly directed to finding something on which the infant can be nourished and which will not increase the trouble al- ready existing. In koumiss we have a food which children with high temperature not only take kindly, but crave, its slightly acid taste being grateful to their parched tongues. It is an absolutely non-putrefactive food, is free from sugar, and is rarely ejected even by the most irritable stomach. ... I can say of it that it has never failed me in any case of cholera in- fantum, except where well-marked brain symptoms already ex- isted, before it was administered, to such a degree as to pre- clude the possibility of a recovery. Even in these cases it is an advantage, for we are giving a food which will not be vom- ited, and which will satisfy thirst." As a food for diabetics the author would refer to page 10. Remarks hy Dr. T. Griswold ComstocJc on the Use of Koumiss : "Regarding koumiss, from a large experience in its use dur- ing the past nine years, I can recommend it with the greatest confidence. It fills a desideratum which the medical practi- tioner has long desired. One fact bearing upon its nutritious value should be borne in mind: one joint of it contains more than two ounces of solid food, so that it is especially indicated in constitutional diseases or systemic affections. According to the most recent authorities it is regarded by practitioners 212 Appendix. as acting in cold weather as a diuretic, and in warm weather as a diaphoretic. From these physiological standpoints we can prescribe it rationally in a variety of ailments. It is valu- able in pulmonary catarrh, in pulmonary tuberculosis, in chronic diarrhoea, in diabetes, in Bright's disease, in diphtheria, in the paralysis the sequel of diphtheria, in summer complaint, in the chronic intestinal and gastric catarrhs of children or adults, and especially in dyspepsia and flatulence. It will be found peculiarly beneficial in cases of incurable disease, such as can- cer. I have prescribed it in pernicious anaemia, puerperal anaemia, in typhoid fever, in puerperal fever; in fact, in almost any affection attended with emaciation. At first it may be given in small quantities, and gradually the ration may be increased until it constitutes the sole food of the patient. As it is in reality a wine-milk, or rather a champagne-milk, it acts some- thing like an alcoholic stimulant, and most patients feel revived at once after taking it. It is especially indicated for the in- firmities of old age, in cases of palsy, paralysis, impending or real mental affections, etc. From Dr. Roberts's Book, ^''The Digestive Ferments^ " My own efforts to produce a palatable peptonized food have been chiefly directed to the pancreatic method. The pancreas excels the stomach as a digestive organ, in that it has the power to digest the two great alimentary principles, starch and proteids ; and an extract of the gland is possessed of sim- ilar properties. . . . My attention was first turned to the artificial digestion of milk . . . Milk contains all the elements of a perfect food, adjusted in their due proportions for the nutrition of the body. Two out of three of its organic con- stituents — namely, the sugar and the fat — exist already in the most favorable condition for absorption, and require little, if any, assistance from the digestive ferments. It is therefore obvious that if we could change the caseine of milk into peptone without materially altering the flavor and appearance of the milk, such a result would go far towards solving the Appendix. 213 problem of supplying an artificially digested food for the use of the sick." Peptonized Milk Gruel. — Dr. Roberts farther says : " This is the preparation of which I have had the most experience, and with which I have obtained the most satisfactory results. It may be regarded as an artificially digested bread-and-milk, and as forming by itself a complete and highly nutritious food for weak digestion. ... I find, however, that some persons fail to peptonize milk gruel so as to make it palatable. This is en- tirely due to allowing the peptonizing process to go on too far. Artificial digestion, like cooking, must be regulated as to its degree. If the liquor pancreaticus is very active, the slight bitterness, whereby it is known that the process has been car- ried far enough, is developed in an hour or less, but if the preparation is not so active, two or three hours may be re- quired to rcacli the same point. The practical rule for guid- ance is to allov/ the process to go on until a perceptible bitter- ness is developed, and not longer. The milk gruel should be raised to the boiling-point to put a stop to further changes." Pancreatic Emulsion of Fats. — Dr. Dobell, in his work on " Loss of Weight, Blood-spitting, and Lung Disease," says : " Oil when it agrees and passes into the blood does not com- pletely represent the solid fats of the natural food, and cannot therefore permanently take their place. As a temporary sub- stitute for natural fat it answers admirably, but sooner or later, in some cases very soon indeed, the portal system becomes choked and refuses to absorb more oil ; the oil disagrees with the stomach, it rises, spoils the appetite, and thus not only ceases to do good, but does positive harm, by preventing the patient from taking as mucli food as the stomach might other- wise call for and digest. None of these disadvantages occur witli well-made pancreatic emulsions of solid fat. The con- sequence is that an artificial supply of natural fat by the nat- ural route can be kept up for an indefinite time if required, while the appetite is usually improved and the digestion also ; 214 A'pjpendix. and at the same time a very large quantity of amylaceous* food is rapidly converted into dextrine and sugar by the pan- creatic action of the emulsion, and thus a most important as- sistance in the economy of fat is given by the increased supply of carbon from the carbohydrates f at the same time that fat is being thrown into the blood by the emulsion. "From the date of its first introduction in 1863 up to 1872, at the lloyal Chest Hospital alone, 1 had prescribed the emul- sion in over six thousand cases. . . . The general results of my thus extended experience have been confirmatory of my opinion. ... I am informed on good authority that as much as sixty thousand pounds of the emulsion (made in London) have been consumed in a single year. While there are cer- tainly a few persons who cannot possibly take or assimilate the emulsion, although able to take cod-liver oil, they are but very few indeed, now that the emulsion has been made so perfect a preparation ; whereas the number of persons who can take and assimilate the emulsion but not cod-liver oil, is very large. In either case, it is necessary not to be too easily persuaded by our patients from prescribing the remedy. I frequently find that patients who assert that they cannot possibly, and never could, keep down the oil, will manage to do so when informed that it is the only thing that will stay the progress of the disease." Food for Infants. Remarks of Dr. Eustace Smith, Physician to the King of the Belgians, in The Sanitary Record : " The mortality among children under the age of twelve months is enormous, and of these deaths a large proportion might be prevented by a wider diffusion of knowledge of one of the most simple of subjects. . . . The great principle at the bottom of all successful feeding, viz., that an infant is nourished in proportion to his power of digesting the food with which he is supplied, and not in proportion to the quantity of nutritive material which he may be induced to swallow, is so * rertaining to starch. f Sugar and starch. "^^Wr. obviously true that an apology might almost seem necessary for stating so self-evident a proposition ; but experience shows that this simple truth is one which, in practice, is constantly lost sight of. That that child thrives best who is most largely fed, and that the more solid the food the greater its nutritive power, are two articles of faith so firmly settled in the minds of many persons that it is very difficult indeed to persuade them to the contrary. To them wasting in an infant merely suggests a larger supply of more solid food ; every cry means hunger, and must be quieted by an additional meal. To take a common case : A child, weakly, perhaps, to begin with, is filled with a quantity of solid food which he has no power of digesting. His stomach and bowels revolt against the burden imposed upon them, and endeavor to get rid of the offending matter by vomiting and diarrhoea; a gastro-intestinal catarrh is set up, which still further reduces the strength; every meal causes a return of the sickness; the bowels are filled with fermenting matter, which excites violent griping pains, so that the child rests neither night nor day ; after a longer or shorter time he sinks, worn out by pain or exhaustion, and is then said to have died from 'consumption of the bowels.' "Cases such as the above are but too common, and must be painfully familiar to every physician who has much experience of the diseases of children. "The food we select for the diet of an infant should be nutritious in itself, but it should also be given in a form in which the child is capable of digesting it; otherwise we may fill him with food without in any way contributing to his nu- trition, and actually starve the body while we load the stomach to repletion. No food can be considered suitable to the re- quirements of the infa.nt unless it not only possess heat-giving and fat-producing properties, but also contains material to sup- ply the waste of the nitrogenous tissues; therefore a merely starchy substance, such as arrowroot, which enters so largely into the diet of children, especially among the poor, is a very undesirable food for infants, unless given in very small quanti- ties and mixed largely with milk. 216 Ajppe7idix. "The most perfect food for children — the only one, indeed, which can be trusted to supply in itself all the necessary ele- ments of nutrition in the most digestible form — is milk. In it are contained nitrogenous matter in the curd, fat in the cream, besides sugar, and the salts which are so essential to perfect nutrition. Tlie milk of different animals varies to a certain ex- tent in the proportion of the several constituents, some con- taining more curd, others more cream and sugar; but the milk of the cow, which is always readily obtainable, is the one to which recourse is usually had, and, when properly made, this is perfectly efficient for the purpose required. Cow's milk con- tains a larger proportion of curd and cream, but less sugar, than is found in human milk, and these differences can be immedi- ately remedied by dilution with water and the addition of cane or milk sugar in sufficient quantity to supply the necessary sweetness. But there is another and more important difference between the two fluids which must not be lost sight of. If we take two children, the one fed on cow's milk and water, the other nursed at liis mother's breast, and produce vomiting after a meal by friction over the abdomen, we notice a remarkable difference in the matters ejected. In the first case we see the curd of the milk coagulated into a firm, dense lump ; while in the second the curd appears in the form of minute flocculent, loosely connected granules. The demand made upon tlie di- gestive powers in these two cases is very different, and the ex- periment explains the difficulty often experienced by infants in digesting cow's milk, however diluted it may be ; for the addi- tion of water alone will not hinder the firm clotting of the curd. In order to make such milk satisfactory as a food for new-born infants further preparation is required ; and there are two ways in which the difficulty may be overcome. "Although any thickening matter will have the mechanical effect desired of separating the particles of curd, yet it is not immaterial what substance is chosen. The question of the fari- naceous feeding of infants is a very' important one, for it is to an excess of this diet that so many of their derangements may often be attributed. Owinor to a mistaken notion that such Appendix. 217 foods are peculiarly light and digestible — a notion so widely prevalent that the phrase " food for infants " has become almost synonymous with farinaceous matter — young babies are often fed as soon as they are born with large quantities of corn-flour or arrowroot, mixed sometimes with milk, but often with water alone. Now starch, of which all the farinas so largely consist, is digested principally by the saliva, aided by the secretion from the pancreas, which convert the starch into dextrine and grape- sugar previous to absorption. But the amount of saliva formed in the new-born infant is excessively scanty, and it is not until the fourth month that the secretion becomes fully established. Again, according to the experiments of Korowin, of St. Peters- burg, the pancreatic juice is almost absent in a child of a month old ; even in the second month its secretion is very limited, and has little action upon starch. It is only at the end of the third month that its action upon starch becomes sufficiently powerful to furnish material for a quantitative estimation of the sugar formed. Therefore, before the age of three months a farina- ceous diet is not to be recommended — is even to be strongly deprecated, unless the starchy substance be given with great caution and in very small quantities. If administered reck- lessly, as it too often is, the food lies undigested in the bowels, ferments, and sets up a state of acid indigestion which, in so young and feeble fi being, may lead to the most disastrous con- sequences. In fact, the deaths of so many children under two or three months old can be often attributed to no other cause than a purely functional abdominal derangement, excited and maintained by too liberal feeding with farinaceous foods. There is, however, one form of food which, although farina- ceous, is yet well digested, even by young infants, if given in moderate quantities. This is barley water. The starch it con- tains is small in amount and is held in a state of very fine division. When barley water is mixed with milk in equal pro- portions it insures a fine separation of the curd, and is at the same time a harmless addition to the diet. Isinglass or gela- tine, in the proportion of a teaspoonful to the bottleful of milk and water, may also be made use of, and will be found to an- 10 218 Apjpendix. svver the purpose well. Farinaceous foods in general are, as has been said, injurious to young babies on account of the defi- ciency during the first months of life of the secretions necessary for the conversion of the starch into the dextrine and grape- sugar, a preliminary process which is indispensable to absorp- tion. If, however, we can make such an addition to the food as will insure the necessary chemical change, farinaceous matter ceases to be injurious. It has been found that, by adding to it malt in certain proportions, the same change is excited in the starch artificially as is produced naturally by the salivary and pancreatic secretions during the process of digestion. The em- ployment of malt for this purpose was first suggested by Mialhe, in a paper read before the French Academy in 1845, and the suggestion was put into practice by Liebig, fifteen years later. " 'Liebig's Food for Infants' contains wheat flour, malt, and a little carbonate of potash, and has gained a well-deserved ce- lebrity 33 a food for babies during the first few mouths of life. The best form with which I am acquainted is that made by Mr. Mellin, under the name of ' Mellin's Extract for Preparing Lie- big's Food for Infants.' In this preparation, owing to the careful way in which it is manufactured, the whole of the starch is converted into dextrine and grape-sugar, so that the greater part of the work of digestion is performed before the food reaches the stomach of the child. Mixed with equal parts of milk and water this food is as perfect a substitute for mother's milk as can be produced, and is readily digested by the young- est infants. It very rarely, indeed, happens that it is found to disagree. " In all cases, then, where a child is brought up by hand, milk should enter largely into his diet; and during the first few months of life he should be fed upon it almost entirely. If he can digest plain milk and water, there is no reason for making any other addition than that of a little milk, sugar, and cream ; but in cases where, as often happens, the heavy curd taxes the gastric powers too severely, the milk may be thickened by an equal proportion of thin barley water, or by adding to Ajp'pendix. 219 each bottleful of milk and water a teaspoonful of isinglass or of Mellin's Extract." ONE MONTH. " Having fixed upon the kind of food which is suitable to the child, we must next be careful that it is not given in too large quantities, or that the meals are not repeated too fre- quently. If the stomach be kept constantly overloaded, even with a digestible diet, the effect is almost as injurious as if the child were fed upon a less digestible food in more reasonable quantities. A healthy infant passes the greater part of his time asleep, waking at intervals to take nourishment. These intervals must not be allowed to be too short, and it is a great mistake to accustom the child to take food whenever it cries. From three to four ounces of liquid will be a suflScient quanti- ty during the first six weeks of life ; and of this only a half or even a third part should consist of milk, according to the child's powers of digestion. After such a meal the infant should sleep quietly for at least two hours. Fretfalness and irritability in a very young baby almost always indicate indi- gestion and flatulence ; and if a child cries and whines un- easily, twisting about its body and jerking its limbs, a fresh meal given instantly, although it may quiet it for the mo- ment, will, after a short time, only increase the child's discom- fort." TWO MONTHS. "During the first six weeks or two months, two hours will be a sufficient interval between the meals ; afterwards this in- terval can be lengthened, and at the same time a larger quan- tity may be given at each time of feeding. No more food should be prepared at once than is required for the particular meal. The position of the child as it takes food should be half reclining, as when taking food from the mother's breast, and the food should be given from a feeding-bottle. When the contents of the bottle are exhausted the child should not be allowed to continue sucking at an empty vessel, as by this means air is swallowed which might afterwards be a source of great discomfort." 220 Appendix. SIX MONTHS. "At the age of six months farinaceous food may be given in small quantities with safety, if it be desired to do so ; and in some cases the addition of a small proportion of wheaten flour to the diet is found to be attended with advantage. The best form in which this can be given is the preparation of wheat known as ' Chapman's Entire Wheaten Flour.' This is su- perior for the purpose to the ordinary flour, as it contains the inner husk of the wheat finely ground, and is, therefore, rich in phosphates and in a peculiar body called cerealine, which has the diastatic property of changing starchy matters into dex- trine." EIGHT MONTHS, "After the eighth month a little thin mutton or chicken broth or veal tea may be given, carefully freed from all grease. After TWELVE MONTHS The child may begin to take light puddings, well-mashed po- tatoes with gravy, or the lightly boiled yolk of an ^gg\ but no meat should be allowed until the child be at least sixteen months old. Every new article of food should be given cau- tiously and in small quantities at first; and any sign of indi- gestion should be noted, and a return be made at once to a simpler method of feeding." Feeding the Baby. Dr. C. E. Page, in a very admirable little book, " How to Feed the Baby," thinks babies are generally overfed. He thinks three meals a day and nothing at night, for an infant from its birth, is quite enough ; that the stomach of an infant needs rest like that of an adult ; that the stomach should be allowed to clear itself and rest before the next meal is taken ; that " the stomach is generally forced to go to work again too soon, and later this excessive labor exhausts the muscular power of the stomach ; the supply of gastric juice is not enough to Appendix. 221 digest unnceded food, which, if not thrown up, remains to pu- trefy and poison the blood." Dr. Page relates his experience with his own children (also others under his charge), who were brought up on the three-meal s-a-day plan. He says they slept all night like older people. At the same time due attention was paid to ventilation. A little dropping of the upper win- dow always kept the room well aired ; no swaddling clothes pinched the vital organs. He says: "If the child be fed and dressed properly, and is otherwise rationally managed, there will be no midnight orgies, no sleepless nights on baby's account, and it will soon, indeed in a very few days, become so regular in habit that the bundled, pinned-up squares, so sweltering and injurious, can be entirely dispensed with at night, and during its naps by day, and it may be safely laid down after supper for its ten or twelve hours of solid sleep." What Dr. Page considers a sufficient amount of diet is as follows : " No definite rule can be given for the amount of food necessary for a hand-fed babe at any given age. It will not, however, vary much from one pint for an infant of six months. This amount, divided into three meals at 6 a.m., 12 m. and 6 p.m., has, in my experience, always insured the best re- sults." This seems very little, yet undoubtedly babies are generally overfed. He also says : " During hot weather the child does not need as much food as in winter. . . . The baby should be allowed water frequently in summer." Dr. Dawson, of New York, discussing the same subject, says : " When treating vomiting, constipation, or diarrhoea in chil- dren, the stomach is given rest by cutting off all but a small quantity of food. Will we gain any benefit, I ask, from ejected or undigested food, even if it causes no severer disturbance ?" Again he says : " Constipation, too, so common in otherwise healthy infants, is generally due to excessive and too-frequent feeding. The explanation is quite simple. The stomach be- ing overburdened with food, and consequently overtaxed with 222 Appendix. work, each supply of milk, instead of being coagulated into fine and soft coagula, which are readily acted upon by the se- creted pepsin, comes into contact with the semi-digested acid coagula of the preceding meal, and, in consequence, is coagu- lated more rapidly than it should be normally, the coagula be- ing larger and harder. Such masses, if not ejected, pass into the intestinal canal but little or not at all changed by the di- gestive process, will impact together on contact, and from their size and dryness are with difficulty passed along the bowels, thus giving rise to constipation, colic, etc." Professor ITuxley says : " But, whatever the circumstances, if the quantity of food taken exceeds the demands of the system, evil consequences are sure to follow. The immediate results of overeating are lethargy, heaviness, and tendency to sleep. Overtaxing the digestive organs soon deranges their functions, and is a common and efficient cause of dyspepsia. If the food is not absorbed from the digestive apparatus into the system, it rapidly undergoes chemical decomposition in the alimentary canal, and often putrefies. Large quantities of gas are thus generated, which give rise to flatulence and colicky pains. Dys- pepsia, constipation, and intestinal irritation causing diarrhoea are produced. If digestion be strong, and its products are ab- sorbed, an excess of nutriment is thrown into the blood, and the circulation is overloaded. If food is not expended in force, the natural alternative is its accumulation in the system, pro- ducing plethora, and abnormal increase of tissue. This is ac- companied by congestion of important organs, mal-assimila- tion of nutritive material, and increased proneness to derange- ment and diseased action." Dr. Dawson says : " The ejection of milk after nursing, which is ignorantly considered by many to be the sign of a healthy child, denotes overfeeding, and is the effect of reflex action. . . . As my experience has taught me, most infants who thus throw up after eating suffer sooner or later from enteralgia and con- stipation, and other symptoms of indigestion, which later are only relieved when the greed of the child is restricted." Dr. Page says : " One cause of excessive feeding exists in the Ajppendix. 223 desire of parents to have 2ifat baby. . . . The excessive fat, so generally regarded as a sign of a healthy babe, is as truly a state of actual disease as when it occurs at adult age. Not only are the muscles enveloped with fat, they are mixed with it through- out, and so are the vital organs — the kidneys, liver, heart, etc. Dissection in these cases often discloses the fact that these organs are enlarged and degenerated with fat ; the liver, for ex- ample, is often double the normal size. The disease finally culminates in one of two things — a considerable period of non- growth, or a violent sickness, which strips them of fat, if not of life." Dr. Page further says : " It is not the large quantity swal- lowed, but the right quantity, properly digested and perfectly assimilated, that alone can insure the best results with either children or adults." Diet for Typhoid Fever. Extract from an address on the "Treatment of Typhoid Fever," delivered before the Midland Medical Society, 1879, by Sir William Jenner: " From the first they should be restricted to a liquid diet with farinaceous food and bread in fine form, if the appetite should require it. It is better to vary the broths, and to add to them some strong essence of vegetables. Sometimes a little strained fruit juice is taken with advantage, but skins and seeds of fruits and particles of the pulp are frequent sources of irrita- tion to the bowels. Grapes are always dangerous, from the diffi^ culty of preventing seeds slipping down the throat. The value of milk as an article of diet is generally admitted, but it requires to be given with caution. The indiscriminate employment of milk in almost unlimited quantities as diet in fever has led to serious troubles. Milk contains a large amount of solid animal food. The caseine of the milk has to pass into a solid form be- fore digestion can take place. Curds form in the stomach. Patients suffering from typhoid fever should be allowed an un- limited supply of pure water. When pure water is freely ab* 224 Appendix. sorbcd it passes away by the kidneys, sldn, lungs, etc., and is of much service as a depurating agent. If it be possible even that the poison of the fever was conveyed into the patient by the drinking-water or the milk of the district in which he is ill, then these fluids should be boiled until a different supply is ob- tained. . . . The fever is thus met by rest, quiet, fresh air, mixed liquid food, and bland diluents, and the exclusion of fresh doses of poison ; the intestinal lesion by careful exclusion from the diet of all hard and irritating substances, and the re- moval from the bowels of any local irritant. "The chief causes of diarrhoea in excess of that due to the intestinal changes in typhoid fever are, first, errors in diet; sec- ond, the use of solid food — the presence of undigested food in the bowels, the abuse of milk and animal broths. My own ex- perience has not satisfied me that one animal broth is more prone to produce diarrhoea than another. Excess of fluid, when there is irritability to absorb the quantity drank, passes through the bowels, and so stimulates excessive secretion from the intestinal mucous membrane. " Alcohol in fit doses improves the nerve energy. . . . When blood in ever so small a quantity is observed in the secretions, the patient is to be kept in a recumbent position. He should not be allowed to make any effort whatever. All movement of the bowels should be restrained as far as possible and for as long as possible. ... It is a point of the greatest moment to keep the bowels empty, and therefore nourishment should be given in the most concentrated and absorbable form ; i. e., essence of meat in tablespoonful doses, frequently repeated. Lumps of ice should be sucked, and all essence of meat iced. " In a disease which runs a limited course, like typhoid fever, the greatest possible care should be taken to preserve the powers of the stomach, as the life of the patient may depend on his power to digest nourishment towards the end of his disease. ... To avert death from failure of heart power alcohol is the great remedy. Over defective cardiac action — due altogether to changes in the muscular tissue, when once established, or in the circulation of poisoned blood through its Appendix. 225 vessels — alcohol exerts comparatively little influence ; but when the weakness and frequency of cardiac action are due to nerve influence, in part or altogether, then alcohol exerts a singularly beneficial effect on the rapidity and feebleness of the heart's ac- tion. ... I may sum up my experience in regard to the use of alcohol in the treatment of typhoid fever thus : Its influence is exerted primarily in the nervous system, and through it on the several organs and processes; for example, the heart and the general nutritive processes — changes on which the rise and fall of temperature depends. In judiciously selected cases it lowers temperature, increases the force and diminishes the frequency of the heart-beats ; it calms and soothes the patient, diminishes the tremor; it quiets delirium, and induces sleep. It should never be given in the early stage of the disease, or with the hope of anticipating and so preventing the occurrence of prostration and debility, but should be prescribed only when the severity of special symptoms, or the general state of prostra- tion, indicates its use. Hence a large number of cases of typhoid fever end favorably without alcohol being prescribed at all. It should not be prescribed when a sudden gush of blood has induced faintness, unless the faintness is so great as to threaten life immediately. Nor should it be given when, after the first few drops, the temperature rises, the heart's ac- tion becomes more frequent, or more feeble, delirium increas- es, sleeplessness supervenes, or drowsiness deepens, so as to threaten to pass into coma. When the urine contains a cer- tain amount of albumen alcohol should not be prescribed un- less absolutely necessary for the relief of some symptom im- mediately threatening life, and then it should be given with the greatest caution, and its effects on temperature and the circula- tion be carefully and frequently noted. The quantity of alco- hol prescribed should be as much only as may be necessary to effect the object for which it is prescribed. In the fourth week, to tide the patient over the concluding days of the dis- ease, it may, as a rule, be given more freely than in the second, or the beginning of the third, week of the disease ; but it is in exceptional cases only, that more than twelve ounces of brandy 10* 226 Appendix. in the twenty-four hours can be taken without inducing the worst symptoms of prostration. Nearly all the good effects of alcohol, when its use is indicated, are obtained by four, six, or eight ounces of brandy in twenty-four hours. Taken in excess, even when in smaller quantities, it would do the patient no good ; it dries the tongue, muddles the mind. . . . When there is a question of a larger or a smaller dose, I, as a rule, give the smaller. The reverse of the rule I laid down for myself in the treatment of typhus fever." Fresh Air and Diet for Colds and Catarrhs. Extracts from " The Remedies of Nature," by Dr. Felix L. Oswald : Dr. Oswald says : " That colds or catarrhal affections are so very common — more frequent than all other diseases taken to- gether — is mainly due to the fact that the cause of no other disorder of the human organism is so generally misunder- stood . . . the cause is taken for a cure, and the most effective cure for the cause of the disease. If we inquire after that cause, ninety-nine patients out of a hundred . . . would answer, ' Cold weather,' * Raw March winds,' ... in other words, out- door air of a low temperature. If we inquire after the best cure, the answer would be, ' Warmth and protection against cold draughts,' i. e., warm, stagnant, in-door air. Now, I main- tain that it can be proved . . . that warm, vitiated in-door air is the cause, and cold out-door air the best cure for catarrhs. . . . In all the civilized countries of the colder latitudes catarrhs are frequent in winter and early spring, and less frequent in midwinter, hence the inference. . . . No kind of warm weather will mitigate a catarrh while the patient persists in doing what thousands never cease to do the year round — namely, to ex- pose their lungs night after night to the vitiated, sickening at- mosphere of an unventilated bedroom. Colds are, indeed, less frequent in midwinter than at the beginning of spring. Frost is such a powerful disinfectant that in very cold nights the Aj[ypendix. 227 lung-poisoning atmosphere of few houses can resist its puri- fying influence ; in spite of padded doors, weather-strips, and double windows, it reduces the in-door temperature enough to paralyze the floating disease germs. ... All Arctic travellers agree that among the natives of Iceland, Greenland, and Lab- rador pulmonary diseases are actually unknown. Protracted cold weather thus prevents epidemic catarrhs, but during the first thaw nature succumbs to art, . . . the incubatory influence of the first moist heat is brought to bear on the lethargized catarrh germs. . . . Smouldering stove fires add their fumes to the effluvia of the dormitory ; superstition triumphs ; the lung- poison operates, and the next morning a snuffling, coughing, and red-nosed family discuss the cause of their affliction. . . . The summer season brings relief; . . . the windows are partially opened. The long warm days offer increased opportunities for out-door rambles. . . . No man can freeze himself into a catarrh. In cold weather the hospitals of our Northern cities sometimes receive patients with both feet and both hands frozen, . . . but without a trace of catarrhal affection. Duck hunters may wade all day in a frozen swamp without affecting the functions of their respiratory organs. Ice cutters not rare- ly come in for an involuntary plunge bath, and are obliged to let their clothes dry on their backs ; it may result in a bowel complaint, but no catarrh. . . . Cold is a tonic that invigorates the respiratory organs when all other stimulants fail, and, com- bined with arm exercise and certain dietetic alteratives, fresh cold air is the best remedy for all the disorders of the lungs and upper air passages. ... If the fight is to be strong and de- cisive (for breaking up a cold), the resources of the adversary must be diminished by a strict fast. . . . But, aided by exercise, out-door air of any temperature will accomplish the same result. In two days a resolute pedestrian can walk away from a sum- mer catarrh of that malignant type that is apt to defy half- open windows. But the specific of the movement cure is arm exercise — a dumb-bell swinging, grapple - swing practice, and wood chopping. On a cold morning (for, after all, there are ten winter catarrhs to one in summer), a woodshed matinee 228 Aj[>pendix, seems to reach the seat of disease by an air line. As the chest begins to heave under the stimulus of the exercise, respiration becomes freer as it becomes deeper and fuller . . . mucus is dis- charged en masse, as if the system had only waited for that amount of encouragement to rid itself of the incubus. A catarrh can thus be broken up in a single day. For the next half week the diet should be frugal and cooling. Fruit, light bread (?), and a little milk, is the best catarrh diet." " A fast- day is still better. Fasting effects in a perfectly safe way what the old-school practitioners tried to accomplish by bleeding ; it reduces the semi-febrile condition which accompanies every se- vere cold. There is no doubt but that by exercise alone a catarrh can gradually be ' worked off.' ... A combination of the three specifics, exercise, abstinence, and fresh air, will cure the most obstinate cold." This admirable article of Dr. Oswald's, published in the Popular Science Monthly^ has undoubtedly done much to shake what he calls " the night-air superstition.'* Dr. Oswald sleeps with window wide open the year round, and he never has a cold. It would undoubtedly be indiscreet, however, to change a habit too suddenly. The old maxim of "feeding a cold and starving a fever" is also refuted by physicians in general, as well as by Dr. Os- wald. Something more about the Pancreatic Extract for Artificial Digestion. In the receipts I have given for the digestion of certain foods (pages 41 and 42), Dr. Benjamin T. Fairchild (the inventor of the "Pancreatic Extract" as prepared by Fairchild Brothers) tells me that he fears I allow too long a time for the digestive process, which renders the food less palatable. It is more sat- isfactory, he says, to digest the milk food but half an hour. If not taken immediately by the patient, the food is, after the half hour, placed on ice. This arrests digestion, and when the patient takes the food into the stomach, the digestion is there completed. As it is desirable to give the food to the patient Ajpjpendix, 229 warm, it can bo slightly heated (a little more than lukewarm) just before it is administered. The boiling of the food kills the digestive principle of the extract used. Yet it is some- times, in the absence of ice, desirable to boil it in order to keep it. The digestive function is not destroyed by cold tempera- ture — only arrested. I do not understand why it would not be as satisfactory to mix the pancreatic extract with the food just before eating, and allow the entire digestive process to be carried on in the stomach. I merely give the advice of others who ought to know more about it than the author. I will also add that pancreatized barley gruel (made without sugar) is the most palatable of the pancreatized gruels. I am also tempted to add a new receipt for a pancreatized food which is now much used. Pancreatized Oysters. Chop half a dozen raw oysters fine as possible, also pound them. Bring two cupfuls (one pint) of the oyster liquor (it may be part water if there is not oyster liquor enough) to a boil, then thicken it with half a cupful of barley flour, rubbed smooth with half a cupful of water. Let it boil three or four minutes to cook the barley, then add the oyster pulp, and a seasoning of salt and very little pepper. When it comes to the boiling- point again, take it from the fire, and when the temperature is reduced to blood heat, mix in a fourth of a teaspoonful of pan- creatic powder, and half a saltspoonful of soda. Pour it into a glass jar or bottle, and put this into water so hot that the whole hand can be held in without discomfort for a minute. Let it stand an hour as described for milk. It takes a little longer to digest oysters than milk. The dish is most palatable served immediately. It is liable to curdle when brought to the boiling-point again. It can either be placed on ice, or brought to the boiling-point for the purpose of keeping. ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Animal Foods, remarks about. ... 14 Apple Sauce 177 Apples, Baked 176 Arrow-root, remarks about 21 Asparagus Soup 161 " " {a la crime) 161 Babies, diet for 49 Barley Gruel 107 « Pudding 193 « Wafers 122 Bass a I'Espagnole 150 Beans, remarks about 21 Beef " " 14 " Juice 102 « Sandwich 144 Beef Tea 100 " " for Convalescents 103 " « for Invalids (Dr. Rice).. 54 « « for Travelling 102 « « (Liebig's) 101 Beefsteak 141 « Chopped 143 Beets (a la crime) 136 Beverages from Fruits 92 Bird, a 149 Biscuits, Dixie 120 « Wafer 122 Blanc-mange, Corn-starch 178 " " Sea-moss 178 Bouillon 165 Bread 113 " Adirondack 114 " Boston Brown 116 " Corn 122 " « (No. 2) 123 « « (No. 3) 123 «• « Rice 124 « Dice 103 « Gluten 130 FAGB Bread, Graham (No. 1) 115 " " (No.2) 115 » Pulled 119 Bright's Disease, diet in 69 Brolh, Beef, with a Poached Egg. 106 « Chicken 104 " Clam 166 « Clear Beef. 105 " Mutton 104 Buttermilk, remarks about 13 Cake, Coffee 120 " Graham Sponge 193 « Hoe 124 Carrots (a la crime) 136 Caudle, Oatmeal 109 Cauliflower 136 Charlotte-russe 179 Chicken, Breast of 144 " Broth 104 " Croquettes 145 " Fricassee 145 « Plain Boiled 147 " Prairie 149 « Souffle 148 « Spring 147 " with Macaroni or Rice.. 146 Chocolate 98 " remarks about 5 Cholera, diet in 62 Chop, Mutton 144 Clabbered Milk 174 Clara Broth 166 " Soup 167 Coffee, remarks about 6 " to make 97 Compotes 177 Consumption, diet in. 173 Corn Bread (No. 1) 122 " « (No.2) 123 232 Alphabetical Index. Corn Bread (No. 3) 123 " IJice Bread 124 " Soiip 1(53 " " (No. 2) 164 Cornmeal Gruel Ill " Mush 129 " Pancakes 124 Corn-starch Blanc-mange 178 " " remarks about 21 Corpulent, diet for the 77 Cottage Cheese 175 Cracked Wheat 126 Crackers 53 Cream, a glass of 96 " Ice 175 " of Asparagus 161 " of Chicken 160 " of Corn 163 " « (No. 2) 164 " of Oysters 159 " of Potatoes 161 " of Rice, Farina, or Barley. 160 " of String-beans 1 63 " Toast 118 " Whipped 174 Croquettes, Chicken 1 45 " Macaroni ] 54 " Oyster. 156 Currant Jelly 185 " Preserv^es 186 " Scone 125 Custard a la Morrison 180 " Caramel 183 " Chocolate 182 Coffee 181 " of Granulated Barlev or Oats '.... 182 " Plain Boiled 180 " Rennet 182 " Tapiora or Sago 181 Diabetes, diet in 71 Diarrhoea, " 61 Digestion, artificial 39 DiphtJjeria, diet in 76 Distilled Water 89 Dysentery, diet in 62 Dyspepsia " 55 Egg and Milk Punch 95 " Cordial.. 95 Eggnog 9 ") Eggs, IJoiled 139 " Poached 139 " Raw 141 " remarks about 20 Farina Gruel. , Ill '• Pudding 190 Fat, remarks about 18 Fever, diet in 64 " Typhoid 66,222 Fish. Bass a VEspagnole 150 " Boiled 150 " Broiled 149 " remarks about 16 Flaxseed and Licorice Tea 91 " Lemonade 94 « Tea 91 Flour Gruel 109 " « (No. 2) 110 « « (No. 3) 110 " Soup 167 Fruits, beverages from 92 " remarks about 22 " Stewed 177 Gastritis, diet in 76 Gelatine, remarks about 21 (ilutcn and Rice Muffins 131 " Bread 130 " Cheese Cakes 132 " Cream Wafers 132 " Muffins 131 <' Mush 130 " Pudding or Gruel 131 « Souffle 132 " Wafers 132 Gout, diet in 67 Graham Bread 115 " '« (No. 2) 115 Rolls 125 Graham-flour Pudding 190 Granulated-wheat Custard 182 " " Pancakes 124 « Pudding 191 Grape Juice 44,93 (i rapes, remarks about 22 Gruel, Barley 107 " Cornmeal Ill " Farina Ill «' Flour 109 Alphabetical Index. 233 PAGE (^riH-1, Flour (No. 2) 110 '' (No.3) 110 " Graliam-flour 108 " Oatmeal, for Infants 54 « " (No. 1) 108 '• '• (No. 2) 109 " Peptonized Milk 42 " Rice 110 Health-foods 26 Hot-water Cure 47 Ice-cream and Iced Peaches 175 Iced water, effects of C Infants, diet for 49, 214, 221 Jelly, Coffee 185 " Currant 185 " " Sauce 173 « " Water 91 " Peptonized Milk 42 « Wine 184 " " (without cooking)... 185 Juice, Beef. 102 " Grape 44 Koumiss 31 " to make 34 Lemon Pie or Pudding 193 Lemonade 93 " Flaxseed 94 Lime-water 89 Liquors, remarks about 8 Longevity 80 Macaroni and Tomato Sauce 152 " au Gratin 153 "' Croquettes 154 « Pudding 191 " Soup 165 Malt Extract 9 Mellin's Food for Infants 54 Milk and Egg Punch 95 " and Seltzer-water 99 " Clabbered 174 " for Infants, Liebig's receipt.. 52 " Punch 94 " remarks about 10 " Toast 119 " to Peptonize 41 PAOB Mush, Cornmeal 129 " Gluten 130 Mutton Chop 144 " remarks about 14 Oatmeal Caudle 109 « Drink 90 "■ Gruel 54, 108,109 " Porridge 128 « Wafers 122 Orange Marmalade 186 " Pudding 193 Oyster Croquettes 156 * " Soup 166 Oysters (a Ui ci-eme) 159 " on Toast 153 " remarks about 16 Oysters, Pancrcatized 229 Panada Ill Pancakes, Cornmeal 124 " Flour 124 " Granulated-wheat 124 Pap 52 Pear Compote 177 Peppers, Stuffed 138 Potato Soup (a la crenie) 161 Potatoes (a la crenie) 135 " " {au gratin). 135 " to bake 134 « to boil 134 Preserves, Currant 186 •' Strawberry 187 Pudding, Barley 193 " Corn Cottage 189 « Farina 190 " Graham Flour 190 " Granulated-wheat 191 " Lemon 193 " ]\Iacaroni 191 " Orange 193 " other Soufflee 192 " Quioque 191 Rennet Custard 182 Rheumatism, diet in 67 Rice a l^/mp€7-atrice 172 " and Gravy 170 " Cones 170 " Dish, as a vegetable 173 " Gruel 110 234 Alphabetical Index. PAGK Rice Pudding 1 70 «' " (No. 2) 171 " « a la Gmllod 172 " remarks about 20 " Soup (a /a c?'e/He) IGO " to boil 1C9 « " in Milk 369 Rickets, diet in 75 Sago, remarks about 21 Salad 156 Sauce a la Gitillod 192 " a plain one for Puddings. . . 189 " Apple 177 " Brown 137 « Burke 192 « Currant Jelly 173 " Tomato 155 Scrofula, diet in 75 Sea-moss Blanc-mange , . . 178 Seltzer-water and Milk 99 Spinach 135 Spirituous Liquors, remarks about 8 Soup, Asparagus 161 " " (a la creme) 161 «« Chicken " 160 « Clam 167 " Corn (a la creme) 163 « « « (No. 2)... 164 " Farina or Barley (a Za crme) 160 " Flour 167 " Oyster 166 " " {a la creme) 159 « Potato " 161 " Rice » 160 " Stock for 164 " String-bean . 163 Steak, Beef 141 " Venison 144 Strawberry Preserves 187 Sugar Syrup 92 Sweetbreads 151 ♦' with Cream Sauce. . 152 PAOB Tamarind Water 90 Tapioca, Custard 181 " remarks about 21 Tea, Beef 100 " « (Liebig's) 101 '•' Flaxseed .' 91 " Iced . . , 6 " remarks about 1,198 " to make 96 Teas, Herb 91 Toast, Cream 118 " Milk 119 " Mock Cream 118 " Sippets 117 " to make 116 " Water 118 Tom and Jerry 95 Tomato Sauce 155 Tomatoes, remarks about 22 Stuffed 137 Utensils 85 Venison Steak 144 Wafers, Oatmeal, Granulated- wheat, Barley, Gluten, etc 122 Water, Apple 93 « Barley 90 " Cinnamon 90 " Currant-jelh' 91 « Distilled . /. 89 " Ice, remarks about 6 " Lime 89 « Oatmeal 90 " Tamarind 90 " Toast 91 Wheat, Cracked 126 Whey 92 " remarks about 13 Zwieback 119 THE END. MRS. HENDERSON'S PRACTICAL COOKING. Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. A Treatise con- taining Practical Instructions in Cooking ; in the Combination and Serving of Dishes ; and in the Fash- ionable Modes of Entertaining at Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner. By Mrs. Mary F. Hendekson. Illus- trated, 12mo, Cloth, |1 50. Mrs. Senator Henderson has rendered an acceptable service to the women of America by the preparation of this thoroughly practical as well as thoroughly sensible book. She not only shows how to prepare and cook dishes, but how to serve them elegantly, and how to entertain company with quiet grace and refinement at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Having pursued courses of study with cooking- teachers in America and Europe, she has the knowledge and ex- perience requisite for the judicious selection of ingredients and for their preparation for the table; and we think she has successfully carried out her aim to produce "a simple and practical book which will enable a family to live well and in good style, and, at the same time, with reasonable economy." * * * There is no detail of the economy of the table that is overlooked, and many of these are made more intelligible by illustrative engravings. — Christian In- telligence?', N. Y. Contains everything that even the most rigidly exacting of eaters could ask his cook to know; and which is, therefore, just the vol- ume to be used by persons who have to do their own cooking. — Boston Traveller. It tells how to serve dishes as well as how to cook them, and gives many useful instructions concerning the art of entertaining, some of which will help housekeepers to avoid serving what Lamb called "roast lady" with their dinners. The receipts are not too many, and a skilled housewife has found all of them good. — iV. Y. Evening Post. Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New Yoek. dt^ Sent, postpaid, on receipt of price. USEFUL BOOKS FOR WOMEN. THE BAZAR BOOK OF BECOBUM. The Bazar Book of Decorum. The Care of the Person, Man- ners, Etiquette, and Ceremonials. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00. THE BAZAR BOOK OF HEALTH. The Bazar Book of Health. The Dwellina:, the Nursery, the Bedroom, the Dining-Room, the Parlor, the Library, the Kitchen, the Sick-Room. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00. THE BAZAR BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD. The Bazar Book of the Household. Marriage, Establishment, Servants, Housekeeping, Children, Home Life, Company. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00. BAZAR COOKING RECEIPTS. Cooking Receipts from Harper's Bazar. 32mo, Paper, 25 cents. MRS. CHURCH'S MONEY-MAKING FOR LADIES. Money-Making for Ladies. By Ella Rodman Church. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents. MRS. DEWING'S (MISS OAKEY) BEAUTY IN DRESS. Beauty in Dress. By Mrs. T. W. Dewing. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00. MRS. DEWING'S (MISS OAKEY) BEAUTY IN THE HOUSE- HOLD. Beauty in the Household. By Mrs. T. W. Dewing, Author of "Beauty in Dress. " Illustrated. 16mo, Ornamental Cloth, $1 00. HAWEIS'S ART OF BEAUTY. The Art of Beauty. By Mrs. H. R. Haweis. With numerous Illustrations by the Author. Square 16mo, Cloth, Ornamental Cover, $1 75. DIO LEWIS'S FIYE -MINUTE CHATS WITH YOUNG WOMEN. Five-Minutes Chats with Young Women and Certain other Par- ties. By Dig Lewis, B.M., M.D. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. MOTHERS IN COUNCIL. Mothers in Council. Pages 194. 16mo, Cloth, 90 cents. OAKEY'S ART OF LIFE AND LIFE OF ART. The Art of Life and The Life of Art. By Alex. F. Oakey. Illustrated. 4to, Paper, 25 cents. Useful Books for Women. BLAIKIE'S HOW TO GET STRONG. How to Get Strong, and How to Stay so. By William Blaikie. Illustrated. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00. BLAIKIE'S SOUND BODIES FOR OUR BOYS AND GIRLS. By William Blaikie. With Illustrations. 16mo, Cloth, 40 cents. MRS. SHERWOOD'S MANNERS AND SOCIAL USAGES IN AMERICA. Manners and Social Usages in America, A Book of Etiquette. By Mrs. John SnERWooD. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00, SOCIAL ETIQUETTE AND HOME CULTURE. The Glass of Fashion: A Universal Hand-Book of Social Eti- quette and Home Culture for Ladies and Gentlemen, With Copious and Practical Hints upon the Manners and Ceremonies of Every Relation in Life, at Home, in Society, and at Court. Interspersed with Numerous Anecdotes. By The Lounger in Society. 4to, Paper, 20 cents, SrOFFORD'S ART DECORATION APPLIED TO FURNI- TURE. Art Decoration Applied to Furniture, By Harriet Prescott Spofford. Illustrated, 8vo, Cloth, Illuminated and Gilt, $4 00; Half Calf, $6 25, TJIACY'S MOTHER AND HER OFFSPRING. The Mother and her Offspring. By Stephen Tracy, M.D., for- merly Missionary Physician of the A,B.C.F,M, to China, 12mo, Cloth, $1 50, UGLY-GIRL PAPERS. The Ugly-Girl Papers; or, Hints for the Toilet, Reprinted from Harper's Bazar. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00, VIRGINIA COOKERY-BOOK. By Mary Stuart Smith. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. WALKER'S HINTS TO WOMEN ON PROPERTY. Hints to Women on the Care of Property. By Alfred Walker. 32mo, Paper, 20 cents. Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. B^^ Harper & Brothers iciU send any of the above woi'ks by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of tlie j)rice. THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK, And House - keeper's Guide. By Mrs. Washington. With Index and Blank Pages for Additional Re- ceipts, pp. viii., 640. 12mo, Waterproof Cloth, $2 00. This book contains in very compact form a vast deal of useful informa- tion. The cooking recipes are multitudinous, variegated, and trustworthy. — iV. Y. Commercial Advertiser. To read this is as good as going to Delraonico's. — Providence Journal. There are cook-books and cook-books, but this is a new one that ap- pears to excel all the rest. ... It will prove a benefaction to experienced cooks as well as to house-keepers who are just beginning business. — Port- land Argus. It is the best in the market. It would be a fine holiday present to a new house-keeper. — San Francisco Christian Advocate. This is a most complete work. Every conceivable dish seems to be de- scribed, and nothing in any department of kitchen work seems to be omitted. We would, perhaps, be justified in saying that it is the best cook-book ever published. — Cincinnati Christian Advocate. This is a good cook-book, very comprehensive, and giving recipes culled from all over the world. . . . The book ought to have " a run." — Presby- terian., Philadelphia. No American cook-book has yet contained so complete a list of Creole receipts. ... As may be inferred, this book contains a unique collection of receipts, many of them published now for the first time. One of its strong points is choice Southern dishes. It ought and doubtless will be warmly welcomed by the knights of the kitchen. — Syracuse Courier. We commend it to the attention of all house-keepers everywhere. — Lutheran Observer^ Philadelphia. There are rare and unique things in this book, whose author hns evi- dently lived in several lands, and availed herself of every opportunity to enlarge her knowledge and cultivate her taste. — Boston Beason. This compilation in breadth and scope deserves to rank among the fore- most of its kind, and is invaluable to those who seek scientific and prac- tical information upon that most important of all domestic topics — the cookery of the household. . . . Every house-keeper should have a copy of the work. — Albany Press. There is probably not a dish known to the civilized world, at least, that is not mentioned here. — Troy Press. A most useful collection of receipts. — Living Church, Chicago. This book contains any number of good recipes, and would be a great addition to any household. — 77ie Church, Philadelphia. It is a capital collection of recipes from private sources. — Detroit Post. Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. t2?~ Haupick & BiiOTiiKus will send the above loork by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price. ^^.:'"- UNIVEKSTTY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, BERKELEY THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW Books not returned on time are subject to a fine of 50c per volume after the third day overdue, increasing to $1.00 per volume after the sixth day. Books not in demand may be renewed if application is made before expiration of loan period. JUNg 1966 APR Z 197S MAY -11979 APR 0^ 1996 U.C. BERKELEY LIBRARIES CDHDD4DSM3 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRAI^Y