THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 

MEMORIALS 
 
 JOHN [BOWEN, LL.D., 
 
 LATE BISHOP OF SIERRA LEONE. 
 
 COMPILED FROM HIS LETTERS AND JOURNALS 
 
 BY HIS SISTER 
 
 " And when we all meet again as we shall never do, till the graves are rent and 
 the books are opened, and the names are rehearsed, and the crowns are distributed 
 at the lastit will be seen that no effort in Christ's cause has been forgotten, nor 
 has any labourer in His vineyard missed his reward." Sandford'sBampton Lectures. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JAMES NISBET & CO.. 21 BERNERS STREET. 
 
 M.DCCC.LXII. 
 
 - : ,; 
 
EDJ> 7 BUROH : 
 
 PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE AND COMPANY, 
 PAUL'S WORK. 
 
TO 
 
 THE WEST AFRICAN CHUECH, 
 
 In ItorB of 
 
 ONE TO WHOSE HEART HER WELFARE WAS EVER DEAR FROM THE 
 FIRST HOUR THAT HE BECAME HER BISHOP, 
 
 THESE PAGES 
 
 ARE, 
 
 WITH EARNEST PRAYER FOR HER PEACE AND PROSPERITY, 
 
 INSCRIBED 
 
 BY 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 
 
 IN a day so prolific with memoirs, it is necessary to apologise 
 for any addition to their number. I believe that Bishop 
 Bowen's prominent connexion with the West African Mission 
 will, in some measure, justify the editing of his life. The 
 history of that eminent, but in some respects most afflicted 
 church, a church so incessantly arrayed in the mourning 
 attire of orphanage, as one by one its chief pastors have been 
 removed, after just sufficient stay to leave behind them no 
 faint remembrance of their love for Christ and His body, 
 has a special appeal to the sympathies of English hearts. 
 Nor are the peculiar incidents of its trials and bereavments, 
 nor yet the records of those who have passed swiftly over 
 its eventful stage, to be carelessly withheld. 
 
 Then, too, Bishop Bowen's early history was characteristic 
 and peculiar. He was thorough in every respect. Called 
 early in the providence of God to the hardships of an emi- 
 
 M311619 
 
VI INTEODUCTOEY CHAPTEE. 
 
 grant's life, subsequently to the hallowed ministry of the 
 word, and eventually to the solemn elevation of the episco- 
 pate, he displayed in these various and contrasted posi- 
 tions the same earnestness of spirit, the same cheerful, faith- 
 ful fulfilling of duty, that had distinguished him from his 
 earliest days. 
 
 It is not so much because he was a great man, a man of 
 large thought and intellect, wide sympathy and love, and 
 plain practical good sense, that 1 wish to tell the story of 
 his life, as that I feel that in that history there is a lesson 
 of earnest truth, which teaches us that God's promises are 
 sure, and that he who gives up all to follow Christ, shall in 
 this world reap his reward as well as in the next. 
 
 So many and varied were the scenes in which he laboured 
 to promote his Master's cause, that it has not been possible 
 to collect together in one view the results of his work on 
 earth ; but we know that wherever he went he caused all to 
 feel that a man of God had been with them, really doing God's 
 work, and exhibiting the omnipotence of that heavenly grace 
 which made him what he was. My own recollections of the 
 genuine simplicity of his character have effectually arrested 
 any effort of mine to dress up an elaborate description or 
 a regular book-made memoir of his eventful life. I have 
 therefore chosen the simple expedient of letting his letters 
 and journals tell their own tale. It is true they bear but 
 feeble testimony to the real standard of the man, being but 
 the daily record of his thoughts, and the hastily-sketched 
 incidents of his travels. We cannot trace there all the large- 
 
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTEE. vii 
 
 lieartedness which desired to work for the whole world. 
 There was no missionary station, no far-off land, his sym- 
 pathy did not reach. His regards were verily catholic ; 
 and so it ever is with the truly great. In grasping the 
 high things, they do not forget the low. " I will sow the 
 whole valley of the Jordan with corn," he said, when return- 
 ing to the East, " and Palestine shall be the granary of the 
 world." 
 
 Nor will the reader be able adequately to discover in the 
 Bishop's own accounts that utter absence of all thought of 
 self which especially marked his character. His constant 
 habit of self-denial and great temperance in all things gave 
 him such a complete power of self-control, that few who 
 knew him guessed that he was of quick warm feelings, and 
 impulsive, passionate temperament. Though no ascetic, he 
 carried out strictly the habit of daily abstinence in little 
 things, and diligent cross-bearing for Christ. 
 
 Worldly men, who rather despised religion as a weakness, 
 felt and acknowledged its power in his presence, and have 
 said of him, " He is a truly great man/' 
 
 We cannot in this Memoir call him back as he was, in the 
 radiance of his countenance, and the charm of his conversa- 
 tional powers. " I never saw any one like him," said one 
 who had often met him in the higher ranks of society ; " let 
 who would be in the room, all were listening to Mr Bowen, 
 and he was himself perfectly unconscious that he was the 
 centre of attraction." 
 
 " He was the most real man I ever met," was the testimony 
 
Viii INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 
 
 of another ; " the nearest to my ideal of what Adam was in 
 Paradise.'"' 
 
 " As for my master," said the old Welsh woman who had 
 been his nurse, as she was one day mourning over the 
 dangers to which his travels exposed him, "As for my 
 master, he goes like an angel over the earth ; nothing can 
 harm him, for he is always looking to God." 
 
 " What a strong man Mr Bowen is ! " exclaimed an Irish 
 railway porter in Orton ; " he walks along the road so that no 
 one can pass him, and he does look as if he could fight ! " 
 
 We could multiply without end these expressions of ad- 
 miration, which his character and appearance called forth 
 from those who had only casual intercourse with him, as 
 well as from those who knew him better. 
 
 His sterling good sense, clear intellect, and perfect freedom 
 from prejudice or party-feeling, rendered him a valuable 
 counsellor at the various missionary stations he visited. He 
 went " strengthening the churches ; " and however contrary 
 to his own the views of others might be, every one relied on 
 his judgment. " If we had but that God-fearing, straight- 
 forward man, John Bowen, here with us," was said at a 
 perplexed committee meeting, " we should soon know the 
 truth." 
 
 Calm and deliberate in coming to a decision, often pausing 
 once again at the last moment to weigh carefully both sides 
 of a question, he was ever prompt in action. He was often 
 accused of being tardy and procrastinating, yet he was al- 
 
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. IX 
 
 ways ready at the right time. Those who saw his study 
 strewn with papers on an infinite variety of subjects, would 
 have said that he was a most disorderly man ; but when 
 those papers were examined, after his death, every one was 
 found in its place ; no letter had ever been destroyed ; all 
 were arranged according to date and subject ; and every 
 detail of business was in perfect order. 
 
 " Let us work and project wherever we are," he was wont 
 to say, " as if we expected to be always there ; and, at the 
 same time, let us be ready to depart at a moment's notice." 
 
 This is the man whose life we wish to trace a man who 
 walked unflinchingly in the path of duty, and did that which 
 was given him to do, with joyous thoroughness. And this 
 life of his, all developed and matured as it appears to us, 
 was still peculiarly and beautifully a boy's life throughout. 
 Not that it lacked the sobriety of age or the wisdom of ex- 
 perience, but that it was unmarked by the departure of that 
 open-souled, trustful reliance, that gentle affection of manner, 
 that cheerfulness and radiance of spirit which call up the 
 vision of the guileless, generous lad, who, with no thought 
 of trickery himself, had not learnt to add to his simple creed 
 that all men are liars. And herein lay the secret of that 
 marvellous influence that attended his presence wherever he 
 went. Morally he had a giant's strength, for he kept within 
 him the beautiful love of a little child. 
 
 That precious relic of the old divinity, too often scorched 
 by the summer of life, or frozen by its winter, he maintained 
 
X INTRODUCTOEY CHAPTER. 
 
 in its vigour to the last, responding heartily to the gentle 
 monitions of the poet : 
 
 " Bear through sorrow, wrong, or ruth, 
 In thy heart the dew of youth, 
 On thy lips the smile of truth." 
 
 Yet not he, but Christ Who lived in him ; Whose everlasting 
 kingdom and glory may these pages advance ! 
 
 AOA TQI 0EQI ! 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CHAP. I. THE SCHOOLBOY, ... .1 
 
 II. THE SETTLER, ..... 13 
 
 III. THE STUDENT, 89 
 
 IV. THE CURATE, . .... 155 
 
 V. THE ENVOY, ... 177 
 
 VI. THE RECTOR, 447 
 
 VII. THE MISSIONARY, 461 
 
 VHI. THE BISHOP, ... ... 523 
 
 LX. THE END, 601 
 
 X. IN MEMORIAM, 625 
 
 APPENDIX, . 631 
 
CHAPTER L 
 
 Like to the mother plant in semblance grew 
 
 A flower all gold ; 
 And bravely furnish'd all abroad to fling 
 
 The winged shafts of truth, 
 To throng with stately blooms the breathing spring 
 
 Of Hope and Youth." 
 
ON the soil of Africa many martyrs have laid down their 
 lives. In the early days of the Church, they fell beneath the 
 sword of pagan persecution. In these later times, although 
 "the perils amongst the heathen" have not ceased, "the 
 arrow that fleeth by day, and the destruction that wasteth at 
 noonday/' have been the most formidable enemies in the 
 lands between the tropics. It was as a forlorn hope, and 
 bearing the banner to the battle's front, that the first mis- 
 sionaries went forth to that fatal clime ; and in the same 
 spirit, when the friends of the late Bishop Bowen urged 
 him to refuse the episcopate of Sierra Leone, he replied 
 " If I served in the Queen's army, and, on being appointed 
 to a post of danger, were on that account to yefuse to go, it 
 would be an act of cowardice, and I should be disgraced in 
 the eyes of men. Being a soldier of the cross, I cannot de- 
 cline what is now offered to me because it exposes me to 
 danger. I know it does, and therefore I must go. Were I 
 offered a bishopric in England, I might feel at liberty to 
 decline it ; one in Sierra Leone I must accept/' 
 
 Even so he went forth, his life in his hand, and in this 
 spirit he laid down that life during the fatal epidemic in 
 Freetown, which hurried many a white man to the grave. 
 
4 THE SCHOOLBOY. 
 
 No mere idle panegyric is the aim of the following record of 
 his eventful life, but rather the shewing forth His power and 
 glory who lived in His faithful servant, and caused him to 
 leave behind him indelible footprints to be trodden by those 
 who should come after, as they would follow Christ. 
 
 JOHN BOWEN, the son of Thomas and Mary Bowen, was 
 born at Court, near Fishguard, Pembrokeshire, November 21, 
 1815. 
 
 There is not much to tell of his parents or ancestors. On 
 both sides he was descended from respectable Welsh families. 
 His father had been in the army, where he had risen to the 
 rank of Captain in the 85th Kegiment, but had left the 
 service rather early in life, his health having suffered severely 
 from the effects of the disastrous expedition to Holland under 
 the Duke of York in 1792-3. 
 
 Captain Bowen had been a good soldier, and was valued by 
 both the officers and men in his regiment. He ever retained 
 a warm affection for his old profession, and brought up his 
 family in almost military discipline, exacting great punctu- 
 ality and the most prompt obedience. At the same time, he 
 would often join in the children's games, and had many a 
 merry drill and march with them. He had been twice a 
 widower before he married John's mother, and had four 
 children by his second wife. 
 
 In November 1813, he married Mary Evans, his third 
 wife, the daughter of the Rev. John Evans, who had been 
 for some years chaplain to the garrison at Placentia, New- 
 foundland. She was a woman of no common talent and 
 energy of character, and devoted herself entirely to the 
 
THE SCHOOLBOY. 5 
 
 education and training of her thirteen children, of whom 
 two died in infancy. After the others had grown beyond 
 the need of constant protection and care, she was active in 
 seeking to promote the welfare, and administer to the wants, 
 of the poorer classes. She was one of the first to establish 
 Sunday schools, or make any effort to improve the education 
 of the poor in Pembrokeshire. 
 
 Her most ardent desire, when a young mother, had been 
 to dedicate her first-born son, like another Samuel, to the 
 Lord ; and when the nurse first placed the infant in her 
 arms, she lifted up her heart in prayer that God would re- 
 ceive him to be an earnest, useful minister in His Church. 
 When, in after years, her wishes seemed likely to be thwarted, 
 still her prayer ascended that he might be the Lord's, and 
 serve Him in whatever situation he might occupy. How 
 surely and fully her prayer was answered, her son's whole 
 life will testify. 
 
 There are many tales of John's early days preserved in 
 the family ; and these prove him to have been an ardent, 
 industrious, and somewhat passionate boy. One of the 
 earliest plainly indicates his determination to carry out his 
 ideas, and displays that readiness for travel and adventure 
 which characterized his maturer life. When four years old, 
 he was lost for several hours, much to the terror of his 
 mother; but was at last discovered returning home, quite 
 unconscious of the alarm and disturbance his absence had 
 occasioned. He had been to a farmhouse, more than a mile 
 distant, having gone there in quest of a little boy, whom he 
 had seen the day before, and whose acquaintance he had 
 wished to cultivate. His mother thought it desirable to put 
 
6 THE SCHOOLBOY. 
 
 a stop to such wanderings by administering the old-fashioned 
 punishment of a whipping. He received it at first with the 
 noisy demonstrations customary on such occasions ; when, 
 suddenly remembering some of the incidents of the morning 
 expedition, he exclaimed, " Mamma ! mamma ! Mrs George's 
 apples are ripe ; they have red cheeks ; and she has a one- 
 handled cart ! " Having vouchsafed this information, he once 
 more relapsed into the dismals, resuming the loud weeping 
 as if it had not been interrupted. 
 
 Another incident, which occurred when he was a very 
 little boy, proves that desire to give help which distinguished 
 him through life. 
 
 Eunning in, one day, from his play, he saw his mother 
 with a large basket of stockings and socks before her. He 
 stood looking on for a few moments in silence, and then said, 
 " Mamma, have you all these to mend ? " On finding that 
 she had, he begged for a needle and thread, that he might 
 help ; and, sitting on a stool at his mother's feet, he soon 
 learned to darn, and really proved an efficient assistant, not 
 only on this occasion, but whenever the basket of stockings 
 was produced. This was no small effort of self-denial ; for, 
 full as he was of life and spirits, John loved play as well as, 
 if not better than, most boys. 
 
 As he grew older, he became the leader in all the pursuits 
 and sports of his brother and sisters, who, under the guid- 
 ance of judicious parents, led a healthy out-door life. Many 
 were the mimic fights they fought, John marshalling the 
 armies ; forts were built, stormed, and defended. His word 
 of praise or blame was as influential among the younger 
 children as the approval or disapproval of their parents. 
 
THE SCHOOLBOY. 7 
 
 His mother was his first, and for some time his sole 
 instructress. She taught herself many things for her son's 
 benefit ; particularly the Latin grammar and the higher 
 branches of arithmetic, in both of which he was more for- 
 ward than most boys of his age. 
 
 Beading, which he acquired at an early age, was his great 
 source of enjoyment. " Sandford and Merton," " Plutarch's 
 Lives," and " Evenings at Home," were especial favourites, 
 and over these he would pore for hours. An old friend of 
 the family's would often tell the story of John's being repeat- 
 edly called to breakfast one morning, when seated near the 
 window reading, and of his answer, " Wait till I come to a 
 full stop ; " which was said so often, that for years after, this 
 gentleman would inquire, when he met him, "Well, Johnny, 
 have you come to a full stop yet?" 
 
 Stonehall, where his parents resided, was situated in a 
 Welsh district, so that there was an English service only 
 once a fortnight in the church. On the intervening Sunday, 
 John would collect his brothers and sisters in their school- 
 room, and while they placed forms for pews, he constructed 
 a pulpit of chairs on the table. Then, putting on his pinafore, 
 hind part before, for a surplice, he read part of the Church 
 Service Thomas, his younger brother, acting as clerk and 
 afterwards preached to his young hearers. Two of these 
 sermons are still remembered ; one, the offering of Isaac, in 
 which he set before his youthful congregation the example 
 of Isaac in submitting to be sacrificed, and not increasing 
 his father's trial by resistance ; and the other, that divine 
 exposition of the new birth, in the third chapter of St 
 John. 
 
8 THE SCHOOLBOY. 
 
 Though this and his thoughtfulness on religious subjects 
 made his mother hope he would fulfil the high calling to 
 which she had dedicated him, his own most ardent desire 
 was to go to sea. With very few opportunities of observing 
 them, John had, in a wonderful way, acquired a knowledge 
 of boats and ships, and made many sketches of them, which, 
 considering his age, were surprisingly accurate. Ship-build- 
 ing was also a favourite pursuit, and after seeing the dock- 
 yard at Pater, he endeavoured to imitate it in his playground 
 at home. This effort came to an untimely end ; for, much 
 to his grief and disappointment, he discovered one day that 
 a too tidy sister had destroyed it with her broom. In the 
 bitterness of his wrath he led her to their mother, declaring 
 that she had swept away such a quantity of timber ! 
 
 Years afterwards, the Bishop helped with his own hands 
 to fit out the boat which was to take him and his wife from 
 Fourah Bay to Freetown, designing and fashioning the flag 
 himself. So thoroughly did the old taste remain ! 
 
 When John was about ten or twelve years old, a favour- 
 able opportunity occurred for his indulging his cherished 
 wish, as an old friend of his father's offered him a midship- 
 man's berth under most advantageous circumstances. An 
 immediate answer was necessary, but John was at the time 
 too far from home to allow time to consult his mother first, 
 and, notwithstanding that he had his father's consent, the 
 boy refused to go without knowing her wishes ; indeed, he 
 felt she would not like it, and without a murmer gave up, 
 on her account, the darling project of his heart. 
 
 At twelve years of age, he was sent to school at Merlin's 
 Vale, near Haverfordwest. Here he was noted for his steadi- 
 
THE SCHOOLBOY. 9 
 
 ness and diligence, and so won the confidence of his mas- 
 ters, that if they knew he was concerned in any affair, they 
 would remark, "It is all right if Bo wen is there." 
 
 In 1830, the family removed to Johnston Hall, near 
 Haverfordwest, and soon after John and his brother Thomas, 
 four years his junior, were sent tathe Rev. David Adams's, in 
 Haverfordwest, who took at that time six pupils. While 
 here, he made good use of his time, and often alarmed his 
 master by the length of his lessons. Mr Adams would fidget, 
 and say, "That is enough, Mr Bowen;" but John would 
 answer, " I have much more than that to say," and poor Mr 
 Adams was obliged to submit and hear him to the end. He 
 was much beloved by his schoolfellows, and through life 
 entertained an affectionate remembrance of them. 
 
 He remained at Mr Adams's until he was old enough to 
 go to college. He had more than the good man's esteem ; 
 and his old master looked forward to the time when his 
 favourite pupil would gain the honours that had been denied 
 to himself. 
 
 "When about sixteen, his mind dwelt much on religious 
 subjects ; but he felt unsettled in his views, and declared, 
 when urged to decide on his future course, that obedience to 
 his mother's wishes was the only reason he had for entering 
 the ministry, and he did not think that a sufficient call to 
 take upon himself so solemn and responsible an office. 
 
 The following letter was written about this time, and is 
 given as the first that has been preserved : 
 
 "JOHNSTON, February 25, 1834. 
 
 "Huzza! Wonders will never cease, only think of my 
 
10 THE SCHOOLBOY. 
 
 sitting down to write a letter, a thing I have not done these 
 twenty years, I was going to say five will be about the mark. 
 Had a bad pen, obliged to stop hone my knife, and mend 
 it not much better, but n'importe. 
 
 " Home news. Yesterday was Queen Adelaide's birthday, 
 and Fanny Bowen's, (a much more important personage.) 
 Got a cold, and a wet morning, so was in the midst of it. 
 Nothing but garlands and puddings, as you may remember, on 
 
 these occasions. All well here I believe, though L and 
 
 I could not go to school last Sunday, for which I was not 
 
 sor hush ! Mamma and E went to Milford some time 
 
 ago, to see an infant school set up there by some kind soul 
 or other. Well ! horribile dictu, one subsequent Sunday I 
 was up in the old place with my class, when oh ! on a sudden 
 I heard an awful clapping of hands, singing or chanting, or 
 some desperate noise, proceeding from a score or two of 
 young brats, highly delighted at this applausive mode of 
 learning, or rather I think playing, terribly to the tormenta- 
 tion of the studiously inclined, especially Nanty and myself. 
 
 The next Sunday, E and her who]e regiment of clapping 
 
 babies started me out of my quarters. Where was I to go ? 
 Why, I marched my ragamuffins up to the first floor in the 
 steeple, and increased a cough. 
 
 " Foreign news. The parson and family are well. Haver- 
 fordwest stands where it did, relations and friends dwelling 
 
 there in statu quo. Little Davy is well, and so is . Stop, 
 
 hallo ! I forgot a most important piece of intelligence, at 
 least to the gay of the said town. There is to be a splendid 
 
 bachelors' ball on the 27th. W was so kind as to give 
 
 tickets to E and L , others also for papa, who 
 
THE SCHOOLBOY. 11 
 
 transfers his to Thomas, and for mamma and me ; and only 
 
 think, N , not to be outdone by you, is making me a 
 
 black silk waistcoat. 
 
 " I have written a deal of nonsense, but you will not like 
 it the less I hope. Are you drowned in Cornwall ? We are 
 almost here ; nothing but rain and storms. A ship is in at 
 Milford with some Barbarian, I beg their pardon, Barbadian 
 friends. . . . We are building a schoolroom on the turnpike 
 
 road. Some one will tell you the details. L will write 
 
 as soon as she can get a frank ; but of our three members, 
 one being in London, the other in Italy, and one in the 
 smallpox, she must wait a little. 
 
 " I did intend to give you a full and fair account of my 
 adventures and travels from Swansea, how I found a friend, 
 dinner and supper at Caermarthen, how I went home safe 
 outside the mail, and other wonderful things and queer 
 chaps I saw. Yours affectionately, 
 
 "JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 John remained at Mr Adams's until Christmas 1834, 
 while his younger brother Thomas had already chosen his 
 profession, and had been apprenticed to a surgeon in Mon- 
 mouthshire the summer before. He had not been there 
 long before he was taken ill, and John was sent to bring 
 him home. He was young then to be commissioned to 
 travel in charge of an invalid, before railways had super- 
 seded the old stage-coach; but very thoughtfully and 
 carefully did he fulfil his trust, and when Thomas became 
 so much worse on the way that they were obliged to remain 
 at an inn at Llandovery, his brother nursed him with the 
 
12 THE SCHOOLBOY. 
 
 most assiduous and delicate care. Their mother soon 
 reached them, to share the love-labour of the tender 
 watcher. Availing themselves of a brief rally, they brought 
 the sufferer home ; and never did brothers' yearnings 
 discover themselves more strongly than by the bedside of 
 the dying lad. John was ever at his side ; soothing him in 
 pain, cheering him in despondency, ministering to him out 
 of the fulness of an overflowing heart, and bending over 
 him as he closed his weary eyes and fell asleep. 
 
CHAPTER IL 
 
 tttltr. 
 
 1835. 
 
 " What time we hold the cmward track, 
 Into the Future pressing fast, 
 Up from the caverns of the Past, 
 There comes a lingering echo back; 
 
 " A noiseless echo of the days 
 
 That were to us, yet are no more, 
 Of many friends we knew before 
 Within our ancient dwelling-place. 
 
 " They are a portion of the Past; 
 
 Yet comes a noiseless echo back, 
 What time we hold the onward track, 
 Into the Future pressing fast." 
 
IT was now high time that Mr Bowen should decide on his 
 future course in life. Just at this period there was some 
 idea of the whole family emigrating, and he had the two 
 alternatives put before him Canada or the Church. His 
 choice will be best explained in his own manly words. 
 
 "JOHNSTON, April 7, 1835. 
 
 " MY DEAR , My father has for the present given 
 
 up his Canada expedition, but I am going out with the 
 intention of settling on my own account. About a fort- 
 night ago, papa and mamma gave me my choice 
 Cambridge or Canada ; and not thinking that I had those 
 impressions without which no one ought to enter the 
 ministry, my inclinations led me to fix on Canada as the 
 scene of my future endeavours. 
 
 " My father approves of my choice, and has liberally pro- 
 mised me the means of getting agoing, in a moderate way, 
 and he has even said, that if I do not like it, or cannot 
 succeed, that I might have the option of returning and en- 
 tering the Church, which is very kind of him ; but I hope 
 and trust that I shall be under no necessity of using this 
 permission. With regard to the Church, if I should wish to 
 
16 THE SETTLER. 
 
 take orders at any period not very remote, my having a little 
 property in Canada will be no obstacle, especially if those 
 necessary sweeping reforms should take place in the Establish- 
 ment. 
 
 "Since we last parted, our number has been somewhat 
 lessened ; before we meet again, if we do, it may be smaller. 
 It was at Llandovery that I received your letter. Poor 
 Tommy ! We are all in the hands of God. I am afraid I 
 shall not see you before I bid ' my native land good-night/ 
 as it is likely I sail on the 20th inst. from Bristol. I did 
 not expect to have gone so soon, but it will be a great advan- 
 tage to me, never having been, as it were, in the world before, 
 
 to go with W . We go via New York, per river Hudson 
 
 and Erie Canal to Niagara. I shall remain a couple of months 
 in the country before I fix, and then, a merry Canadian farmer, 
 I shall send you an invitation to take a jaunt to the Falls 
 and Lakes. 
 
 "I leave home on the 15th or 17th, for I shall have 
 some things to get at Bristol. It was only to-day that we 
 knew the time of the ship's sailing, so my outfit is somewhat 
 hurried. 
 
 " May Almighty Providence direct that I may be a comfort 
 to my parents ! Poor comfort, you will say, leaving them three 
 thousand miles the other side of the Atlantic. I thought so 
 too at first ; but considering that now at home I am but of 
 small utility, except for carving a round of beef on a Sunday, 
 and that college would be the same as Lake Huron or Quebec 
 for that, only a little nearer, and that it would be four years 
 before I could do anything for myself, in which time, I now 
 hope, to have cleared a good many acres of good land, I have 
 
THE SETTLEK. 17 
 
 made up my mind to try my luck. You shall have a good- 
 bye from Bristol. JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 The voyage to New York was long and tedious, as they 
 did not arrive there until the beginning of July. After re- 
 maining a few days, and seeing the celebration of the 4th 
 July, he proceeded with his friends to Canada. As their 
 destination was fixed, he soon separated from them, visiting 
 first an old companion of his father's in the 85th Regiment, 
 Colonel Talbot, who had been settled for many years in 
 Upper Canada. He then travelled over a great part of the 
 province, in search of a desirable locality; many of these 
 journeys were made on foot. After a short time spent in 
 this wandering life, he decided on purchasing a farm on 
 Lake Erie ; forwarding to his mother the following account 
 of his bargain. These letters home will best illustrate his 
 character, while yet a boy, before the great change had taken 
 place. 
 
 "HAMILTON, September 3, 1835. 
 
 " MY DEAR MOTHER, I hope you will not be angry that I 
 have so long delayed writing, but since you last heard, I have 
 been so much engaged in moving about, that I could scarcely 
 find time ; and I was desirous of giving you as full an account 
 as possible ; and the impressions produced by various places 
 and persons were so opposite, that I scarcely knew what to 
 think or say. I hope my father will not think I have been 
 too precipitate when I say I have bought a farm, the particu- 
 lars of which I will relate, as that is uppermost in my mind, 
 before I give a detailed account of my peregrinations in 
 
18 THE SETTLER. 
 
 Canada. It is 157f acres of wild land, at $3, or 15s. 
 Halifax currency, per acre ; situated about four or five 
 miles west of the mouth of the Grand River. My lot fronts 
 on Lake Erie ; it is a quarter of a mile broad, and about 
 one mile long. The soil is a good rich loam or marl, 
 on a clayey bottom; the timber in front is light, being 
 from thirty to forty years' growth, (the timber before hav- 
 ing died off from some cause or other,) of the best kinds, 
 viz., the sugar-maple, elm, beech, basswood, some oak, 
 hickory, and iron wood, with a little poplar ; the back part 
 has some very heavy timber. The lot adjoining mine to 
 the west, said not to be so good as mine, was bought last 
 year for $4J. All along the shore is settled by gentle- 
 men from the old country ; some gave $5 or $6 an acre for 
 their land. 
 
 " The township of Dunn, which has not been settled more 
 than three years, is a part of the reserve for the ' Six Nation 
 Indians/ and surrendered by them to Government for sale, 
 the money to be converted into a fund for their use. 
 
 " I purchased at a sale of Indian lands at Brandford, 
 August 25th. The reason I bought was, that if I should not 
 remain in the country, I might be able to sell it for perhaps 
 double. 
 
 " I shall now attempt to give you as correct and minute 
 an account of Canada, and the manners and means of living, 
 as my own observations, and the information I have endea- 
 voured to acquire from others, will admit of." 
 
 The remainder of this long letter abounds in singularly 
 graphic and faithful description. He had been but a short 
 
THE SETTLER 19 
 
 time in the country, yet he enters into every detail respecting 
 the prices of land, labour, and provisions, in the different 
 districts; no advantage or drawback is omitted, but all is 
 fairly and clearly set down. As these facts, however, will no 
 longer be interesting to the emigrant, and have nothing to do 
 with the personal career of the writer, we shall pass on to 
 the next in order. 
 
 "DUNNVILLE, October 26, 1835. 
 
 " MY DEAR MOTHER, I received your letter about a fort- 
 night ago, and was quite rejoiced, for I have been anxiously 
 
 looking for one. You speak about my coming home 
 
 I dare say you would like a description of the place I am in. 
 The township of Dunn has not been settled, in any part, more 
 than three years, so there is very little cleared. It is only 
 settled along the lake shore, and a few lots on a road that has 
 been cut through it, if road it can be called ; but the greater 
 part has been bought. The Grand River is a noble stream, and 
 bounds the township on one side, and Lake Erie on another. 
 The lake has all the appearance of a sea, except tides. My 
 shore is rather exposed, but the beach is steep, and deep 
 water, so that a small sloop can easily discharge in fine 
 weather. . . . Dunnville is situated on the Grand River, where 
 a very large dam has been made, to raise the water to a suf- 
 ficient height to feed the Welland Canal. There are about 
 fifty houses all of wood, and several stores, three saw-mills, 
 and a grist-mill. . . . 
 
 " There is no church nor other place of worship within 
 thirty miles of this place, but every Sunday a little few as- 
 semble in the school-house, and hold a Sunday school, and a 
 
20 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 reading and prayer-meeting; occasionally an itinerant preacher 
 comes. These men are frequently illiterate, but they appear to 
 have the work at heart. Many, most of the inhabitants use 
 the Sabbath as a holiday, go deer-hunting, fishing, shooting, 
 &c. ; but there is a talk of building a church. There is a good 
 deal of game about this district. One day, going along Lake 
 Shore, four deer crossed the road, twenty yards before me ; 
 but unluckily I was without my gun. There are quantities 
 of the pheasant and partridge or quail, snipe and wild fowl, 
 on the river. I have seen some of the white-headed eagle 
 about the shore. I know a great many of the birds by the 
 plates you have in the book at home. . . . 
 
 " The settlers in this part are all in the rough, having to 
 begin entirely, and are subject to many inconveniences. There 
 is but little pleasure to be expected in emigration ; but if 
 people come here through necessity, to make a little money 
 go a long way, and to increase that little, they can live very 
 comfortably. Every one works ; no one is idle. There is, too, 
 a kind of pleasure in this way of life, an independent feeling, 
 a knowledge that every year your condition is improving. 
 As for myself, the country is much what I thought it was, 
 and I think that in a few years / could go ahead, as they say 
 here, and get on very well. ... I think that after a little 
 practice, I shall be a good chopper. I have been busy looking- 
 for hands to work, who are scarce here. I can tell you it is 
 no small trouble to be a landed proprietor. The solid ad- 
 vantages of Canada are great, with up-hill work. Perhaps 
 I speak rather hardly of the country, but it is the safe side ; 
 it is preferable to find things better than you expect, instead 
 of worse. To some people it is a kind of pleasure to be 
 
THE SETTLER 21 
 
 put to their wit's end, how to contrive to get over incon- 
 veniences and events. I have seen gentlemen cooking, and 
 washing the plates after their workmen ; have been in a house 
 where they were without bread, butter, or flour, by chance 
 had some potatoes and pork, and tea no sugar ; cows astray, 
 no milk ; yet we were merry enough. I shot a black squirrel 
 to-day they are scarce ; but I have rarely had my gun in my 
 hand, having no time for that sort of work. 
 
 " Remember me to all the numerous signers of your letter ; 
 and hoping, my dear parents, that what I have done is to your 
 satisfaction, I remain your affectionate son, 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 TO A SISTER. 
 
 " DUNNVILLE, December 1835. 
 ****** 
 
 " Some weeks ago, I moved into a small log-house, belong- 
 ing to a Mr B , who is now in England, and whose land 
 adjoins mine. I now live in it till my own house is finished, 
 which has been greatly delayed, in consequence of all the 
 lumber i.e., timber, bricks, &c. being wrecked on the beach. 
 The materials were all put on board a sloop at Dunnville, 
 which brought them and landed the greater part a good 
 way above the usual height of the water ; when a most 
 furious gale came suddenly on from the south-west, to 
 which the shore is quite exposed, and raised the water twelve 
 feet higher than usual higher than men who have known 
 the shore for forty years ever recollected. The waves, where 
 the bank was low, went clear into the woods. The lumber 
 was almost all carried away or broken to pieces. It was 
 
22 THE SETTLER. 
 
 astonishing to see how strong boards were smashed into little 
 bits. The sloop was driven ashore half a mile from my 
 beach, and went to pieces. My house has, therefore, been 
 delayed a month or two : they are now going on again. The 
 weather has been much against them ; but I hope, if the 
 frost does not prevent plastering, to get it done in about 
 five weeks. 
 
 " The winter has commenced. A fortnight ago, we had a 
 heavy fall of snow, and the frost has been severe. The 
 carpenters, who are in the same house with me, got a 
 quarter of beef, which they expect the frost to preserve. 
 What would you think of cutting beefsteaks with an axe ? 
 Water freezes within two yards of a strong lire, and no 
 mistake ! but they tell me this is nothing. The Grand 
 Kiver is frozen over, and, if the frost continues, will soon be 
 a good road. There has not been much sleighing here yet ; 
 but I have seen a few driving about with bells. When the 
 roads get well beaten is the only time that one can travel 
 with any pleasure in this country. I have now a chance of 
 getting some flour and other things from Dunnville, which at 
 other times is a difficult matter. What would you think of 
 seeing me carrying fourteen pounds of butter, in a tin pail, 
 five miles, on a snowy day ? it is fact ! You ask what you 
 would have to do here? You can answer that question 
 better than I. If you had no servants, or only one or two, 
 what would you have to do at home ? There is as much, or 
 more, to be done here. I have heard that one of General 
 
 M 's daughters makes all the butter of his large farm. 
 
 As you say, money goes much further here than at home, 
 in a ratio of nearly two to one. One reason, if you go far 
 
THE SETTLER. 23 
 
 back, you have not the means of spending it. Almost every- 
 thing is much cheaper than at home, except clothing, espe- 
 cially woollens, which are very high. Another reason is, 
 that most people, on coming out, find that they can do with- 
 out many things that they before thought almost necessaries, 
 and that they must do a great deal for themselves. And as 
 for young persons having to wait on themselves, it is not 
 such a trouble as one may at first think. The chief thing 
 is, that it takes up a good deal of time. 
 
 " It would amuse you, I think, to see me cooking my 
 dinner, washing the plates, making my bed, when it is 
 made, and doing other household jobs. Indeed, if you had 
 a peep at the present internal arrangements of my domicile, 
 you would think it anything but neat or comfortable ; but 
 such things are by comparison ; and as soon as I get into 
 my own house, I shall put a better face on affairs 
 
 " N wishes me to describe a small farm particularly. 
 
 That would be difficult, I saw so many some pretty, some 
 ugly. Her Grace and Nelly are quite ready for a house. 
 Now, would they like one in the middle of the forest, with 
 maybe a wolf or rattlesnake for their next-door neighbour ? 
 but neither are much worse than an adder or a fox, except 
 to the sheep. 
 
 "And now, with best love to all, I bid you good-bye, 
 warning you that if you come to Canada, you will not lead 
 so easy or so refined a life as at home ; but there is no doubt 
 you will be independent, although you must take it a little 
 in the rough sometimes." 
 
 "January 1836. 
 
 " The frost is very severe here sometimes. I am obliged 
 
24 THE SETTLER. 
 
 to have the ink close to the fire to keep it thawed while I 
 am writing. The rivers now are excellent roads ; the lake 
 freezes over sometimes a long way out, and then a storm 
 comes, and breaks it all up, heaping it high on the beach. 
 There is a kind of mirage frequently seen here ; the hills on 
 the opposite side appear considerably above the horizon. I 
 have seen those at a distance, supposed to be about seventy 
 miles off, reflected upside down. I have seei\ schooners in 
 the air, which were naturally below the dip of the horizon. 
 The lake is about thirty miles wide at this part ; but the 
 land we see is the Alleghany mountains. 
 
 "Old Bill* sends his best regards to Miss Fanny, and 
 hopes the rest of the ladies of the round-table will excuse 
 being separately named. I tell over their names in my mind. 
 Your affectionate son, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 "March 29, 1836. 
 
 " .... At the beginning of this month, my man wanting 
 to go away for a week, I took the opportunity of shutting 
 
 up the house, and going to pay W a visit at the Falls. 
 
 .... They have very pleasant society there ; indeed, their 
 neighbourhood may be considered the genteelest in Canada. 
 The cataract has in winter a very singular appearance. Im- 
 mense rocks of ice reach from the bottom nearly to the top 
 of the waterfall ; the trees immediately adjoining are covered 
 with frozen spray. Below the Fall, where the ferry plies in 
 summer, people cross on foot. Higher up and lower down, 
 
 * A pet name given to him at school, and in the family. Fanny, the 
 youngest, was then a very little child. They had for years sat down, 
 twelve or thirteen, to a round dining-table. 
 
THE SETTLER. 25 
 
 the unchained river is rushing on ; here, suddenly arrested, it 
 is trodden like a bridge or turnpike road. The Falls them- 
 selves have not the same immensity as in summer, being 
 greatly concealed by the quantities of ice that are hanging 
 about them ; but I think that the effect of the whole is more 
 curious and picturesque. I staid there three days ; it took 
 me nearly two to walk the distance of forty miles. A part 
 of the road is along the Canal, in which there is one reach of 
 from nine to ten miles, straight as an arrow, principally 
 through what is called in this country a tamarak swamp.* 
 It is a most dreary place, only one house on the line, 
 the population being chiefly composed of wolves and deer. 
 
 " I think I described my house in another letter ; but if not, 
 I have five rooms, a good-sized kitchen, a sitting-room, two 
 little bed-rooms, and a pantry, all on the ground-floor. It 
 has not been built with an upper story, but I think of using 
 
 the garret for a sleeping-place. You and N are, you 
 
 say, still willing to come out. I can promise you few plea- 
 sures in a Canadian life. Even if you bring a servant with 
 you, you must look forward to being left without her at any 
 time ; and to give up the comforts of home, to undergo the 
 drudgery here, is a sacrifice which, on my account, I have 
 no right to expect. Milking and other out-door work is 
 generally done by men ; as to cleaning shoes, each performs 
 this operation for him or herself. Of course, I need scarcely 
 say, that were you or any one of my sisters to join me, my 
 happiness would be greatly increased : still your emigration 
 is a step I have begun to contemplate as nearly impossible ; 
 indeed, I think that unless there were a necessity for it, it 
 
 * Tamarak, or tamarish, is nearly the same as larch. 
 
26 THE SETTLER. 
 
 would be wrong, although as I have said before, you might 
 be happy in finding your independence. I have seen ladies, 
 brought up in less knowledge of household concerns than you 
 have, cheerfully undergoing the hardest work ; but that is 
 what you should never do with my consent. Ever yours, 
 
 " JOHN Bo WEN." 
 
 "May8, 1836. 
 
 "MY DEAR MOTHER, I received your letter of the 13th 
 February by this week's post. I am really sorry that you 
 should feel so distressed at the imaginary hardships to 
 which it leads you to believe that I am exposed. I do not 
 recollect any that I mentioned, or any very severe ones that 
 I have endured, except perhaps a hard bed, on which my 
 sleep is sounder than that of many a peer on down. As 
 long as a man has enough to eat, and can keep himself 
 tolerably warm, he has no business to complain of hardships. 
 What if he has to toil sometimes? It is all in the day's 
 work. To be sure, this sort of job may be somewhat 
 disagreeable and troublesome, but what is there without 
 trouble in this world ? You need be under no apprehensions 
 of my hurting myself with hardships, I am stronger and 
 stouter than ever I was, and burnt quite brown ; by the end 
 of the summer I shall be converted into an Indian or a 
 nigger, as the negroes are called here. . . . We have had a 
 very backward spring, the trees are only now beginning to 
 come out in leaf. I have been very unlucky, too, for one 
 day I upset a kettle of boiling pea-soup on iny foot, scalding 
 it so badly, that I could not get my shoe on for three weeks. 
 It is now quite well again, but it has hindered me very much. 
 
THE SETTLER. 27 
 
 " I have burnt a good piece of ground, and shall soon 
 have the logs off. I have planted some potatoes, but shall 
 be late with my oats. We have some beautiful spring 
 flowers, and some handsome birds, particularly a scarlet and 
 blue one. A whip-poor-will takes his station every night 
 close by my house. I have a large canoe, and was eleven 
 miles along shore in her the other day for a load of potatoes/' 
 
 It was at last decided that the family should remain in 
 England, and that an old servant should be sent out to him. 
 She was much pleased with the proposal, having known him 
 from a boy, and did not hesitate to undertake the voyage, 
 and brave the wilds of Canada, in the service of her young 
 master. She arrived on the 6th of June, and considerably 
 added to the comfort of his housekeeping, though she in 
 vain endeavoured to persuade him to give up his deerskin 
 couch, and use the feather bed she had brought from home. 
 It was reported of him, at this time, that he looked twice at 
 a dollar before he spent; it; and yet no one could say of 
 him, at any period of his life, that he was other than liberal 
 in all his dealings. 
 
 We shall continue to give such extracts from his letters 
 as will best illustrate the young settler's history, manners, 
 and disposition. 
 
 TO A SISTER. 
 
 " LAKE SHORE, September 23, 1836. 
 
 " MY DEAR E , I have long been promising myself 
 
 to write to you, but, from some cause or other, have been so 
 
28 THE SETTLER. 
 
 engaged that I could not find time, and now I do not know 
 when I may finish this letter. For the last three months I 
 have been very busy burning brush, and logging ; it took 
 me a week to go into the woods and hunt up my cattle, which 
 had been away all the summer ; but now I have a piece of 
 the wood fenced to keep them at home. We have had a 
 very wet summer, which has hindered me a little. We had 
 one good long time of dry weather, and just then my man 
 took it into his head to behave so badly .that I was obliged 
 to discharge him, and depend upon myself alone for some 
 time. After a while, I got two men to come and help me to 
 log, that is to roll the trunks of trees together and burn 
 them. I have logged upwards of twelve acres this summer. 
 I do not intend to sow the whole with autumn wheat, as 
 some of it is rather too wet. I 'think I shall be ready to 
 
 sow next week 
 
 " One of my neighbours and I took a fine buck the other 
 day; an account of the chase may be entertaining. One 
 
 morning as I was looking for my cow, I met Mr J. B 
 
 looking for a yoke of oxen. The cattle had all gone far back 
 that day. After searching for some time, we gave them up, 
 and coming home by the shore, we saw a large deer cross 
 the road and go down towards the lake. Our dogs imme- 
 diately set on him he took back to the woods they followed 
 at full cry in five minutes they had him in the lake, more 
 than a quarter of a mile further down. He swam straight 
 out, the dogs following, but in the water he gained fast on 
 
 them. We ran as hard as we could to where Mr B 
 
 had a partly-finished flat-bottomed skiff of his own building. 
 Calling to our assistance a Scotchman who was logging for 
 
THE SETTLER. 29 
 
 him, we got on board, and pulled with all our strength. 
 There was a heavy ground-swell on the lake, and the skiff 
 leaked a good deal, especially through a seam that was not 
 
 caulked ; B baled with his shoe. The deer grew tired 
 
 we got closer unfortunately we had no gun the Scotchman 
 made two or three attempts to seize him, nearly upsetting 
 the boat in the endeavour the deer doubled several times, 
 and, turning faster than we did, left us each turn a little be- 
 hind, and nearly as exhausted as himself. At last, about a 
 mile from shore, we knocked him on the head, and secured 
 him and a fine buck he was. The chase lasted nearly an 
 hour. I hunted a fawn one day in my canoe, and managed 
 to secure him. Deer are plentiful in the forest, but we have 
 no time to hunt them. One Sunday afternoon, a doe came 
 close to my house ; no one was in except Betty, who was 
 wonderfully pleased. In the frosty weather, I dare say they 
 will be coming after my turnips." 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. . 
 
 "February 6, 1837. 
 
 " I received your letter of October 27th on the 3d of last 
 month, and though I have allowed a month to elapse before 
 answering it, I have not thought the less* about it. I shall 
 proceed at once to what is to me the most important part 
 that which relates to my returning home. Certainly there 
 is nothing I should like better than to be at home with you 
 all again ; there is nothing I could wish for more than to be 
 a comfort and assistance to you both. Perhaps I was a 
 little hasty when I started for Canada in such a hurry ; but 
 
30 THE SETTLER. 
 
 what is done cannot be helped. I think I ought to be a 
 little more cautious in the next step I take. 
 
 " First there is the farm 
 
 " I have bought myself a couple of planes, and turn car- 
 penter on bad days. I am making a bedstead of a cherry-tree. 
 
 The winter still hangs on The wolves have visited us 
 
 this winter ; they killed a fine buck some nights ago, on the 
 ice opposite to my house. The other morning about day- 
 break, we heard them howl, and discovered four or five on 
 the ice, looking for the remains. I called a man who lives 
 in a shanty close by, and setting him to watch the shore, I 
 went after them, but they got away to the other side of the bay. 
 They do make a very doleful and savage cry, but we have not 
 heard them for nearly a week. The lake has been for some 
 time frozen as far as the eye can reach, and is covered with 
 snow. Betty is a good servant, and makes soap, candles, and 
 starch. I have sold some butter from my cow, by way of a 
 beginning. Excuse this jumbled and blundering letter, but 
 my mind outruns my pen. With love, &c., 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 " I should have answered your letters before this, had I 
 not been on the eve of setting about an experiment, the result 
 of which I wished to communicate to you. It was to make 
 maple sugar, and I will give you as brief an account of it as 
 I can. There being only a very few maple-trees near our 
 
 houses, young M and I agreed to go towards the back 
 
 of our lands, where there was more likelihood of finding a 
 sufficient sugar bush that is, a number of the sugar-maple- 
 
THE SETTLER. . 31 
 
 trees together. After wandering about a good deal, we 
 fixed on a spot which, though not very good, was the best 
 we could find at a convenient distance. It is about half a 
 mile from my house, towards the back end of my land. We 
 next set about making troughs, and carrying out our kettles. 
 The trees are tapped by cutting into them with an axe ; 
 inserting a piece of wood for a spout, the sap is caught in a 
 trough cut out of solid wood. Being novices, we did not make 
 our spout fit well, and so spilt a good deal of sap. A good 
 tree will run a pailful a day, and two or three pailfuls will 
 make a pound of sugar. Good trees, well managed, will, 
 they say, average from two to three pounds of sugar in the 
 season. Ours, I am sorry to say, did not turn out anything 
 like it. The sap is collected together, and boiled down till it 
 becomes sugar. The first that we boiled, we spoiled ; but 
 we made afterwards fourteen pounds of very good brown 
 sugar, in a cake as hard as white sugar. Some molasses 
 made from a few trees near the house is like honey. I wish 
 you could taste it. 
 
 " .... A church is going to be erected at Dunnville by 
 subscription. It is to be finished by the 1st August ; and a 
 regular clergyman is expected to be appointed, who would 
 also serve the Lake Shore, if the English settlers there, ex- 
 tended along the lake for eight miles, could agree on a place 
 on which to build. Your subscription will be very accept- 
 able, and I hope the example may stimulate others. The 
 church will be Episcopal, under the jurisdiction of the Bishop 
 of the diocese. 
 
 " Did I tell you that at the township-meeting I was chosen 
 one of the Commissioners under the new Township Act ? an 
 
32 THE SETTLER. 
 
 office somewhat analogous to that of common councilman 
 at home. The Board consists of three chosen annually." 
 
 He commenced keeping a private diary the latter part of 
 the previous year, and continued it at intervals. It does not 
 possess sufficient interest to be given here, as it consists 
 chiefly of entries on the weather, sowing of crops, killing of 
 pigs, with an account of articles for house use, or, as he calls 
 them in Canadian phrase, notions, brought from Dunnville. 
 Still, in the notes on the Sundays, there is some token of 
 self-examination, and evidence that the Spirit was even then 
 striving with him and preparing him for a higher calling 
 than that of a tiller of the ground. For example, the follow- 
 
 " January 22, 1837, (Sunday.) Fine and bright. Snow 
 ten inches deep. At home. Eead the Lessons and Psalms. 
 Studied the Greek Testament, but find it difficult to fix at- 
 tention. Read ' Young Christian,' on personal improvement ; 
 find directions for keeping a minute personal journal; deter- 
 mine to try to follow them also in regard to intellectual im- 
 provement. How have I wasted the opportunities presented 
 to me, particularly when at Mr Adams's ! although I made 
 some progress in the classics, and might have made more, 
 both in them and in general knowledge, had I been more 
 diligent and known better how to improve advantages which 
 now I fear will scarcely be offered again. Especially in re- 
 gard to religion, how improvident have I been at times ! Now 
 that I think that my mind has been opened to see the truths 
 
THE SETTLER. 33 
 
 of the gospel in a clear light, I am far removed from those 
 much-abused means of grace. Again, how inconsistent is 
 my conduct and conversation ! Although there may be no 
 glaring immorality, yet how light and careless I am, and with 
 what cowardly weakness do I veil the real sentiments of my 
 mind with regard to pure Christianity, in company where I 
 know they will be unacceptable or liable to ridicule! May 
 God grant me strength to overcome this weakness, this 
 meanness ! I think my greatest faults are weakness of mind, 
 
 and indolence of mind and body." .... 
 
 ****** 
 
 The next twelve months were passed in much the same 
 manner as the last ; and we do not find any of his letters 
 again until April 1838. 
 
 Meanwhile, the Kebellion had broken out in Upper 
 Canada, and John Bowen was amongst the first volunteers 
 who marched to the support of the Government. He after- 
 wards entered a Militia Kegiment, a circumstance which he 
 duly mentions in the following letter : 
 
 "WATERLOO, NEAB FORT ERIE, April 8, 1833. 
 
 " MY DEAREST MOTHER, I have to-day received your letter 
 of February 15th. How little do I deserve your kindness! 
 May God enable me one day to repay you and compensate 
 for all this trouble and uneasiness. It does indeed seem as 
 if the Almighty intended to punish me for seeking the things 
 of this world rather than His service. I have a strong desire 
 to return to my original destination, but a sense of my own 
 unworthiness prevents me ; and at present I am engaged in 
 
34 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 a pursuit which I cannot hastily abandon. Besides, it shall be 
 my endeavour not to cost my dear father anything more. I 
 ought, and I hope to be able, now to maintain myself. I sup- 
 pose you must by this time be aware of my present situation ; 
 but in case you may not have received the letter I wrote six 
 weeks ago, I shall tell you again, that I am a Lieutenant in 
 a regiment of Militia Volunteers, enlisted to serve until the 
 1st of July. Three thousand have been raised in the Upper 
 Province. Our regiment is called the Queen's Niagara 
 Fencibles, and is five hundred strong, having ten companies. 
 I do not think it would do for me to resign my commission, 
 as there is a probability of our being kept on, though that 
 does not seem so likely now as it did some time back, when 
 a war. appeared all but inevitable. At present, when the so- 
 called American sympathisers have been defeated in every 
 part of the frontier, when the Government of the country 
 is at length rousing itself to something like energetic effort 
 to put down the various factions, when the English Cabinet, 
 too, is assuming so forbearing an attitude on the question, it 
 appears highly probable that peace may yet be maintained, 
 notwithstanding the recent shameful conduct of the American 
 authorities, displayed in their taking no steps at the outset, 
 as they might have done, to suppress the rebellion so far as 
 their own people were concerned. I like soldiering pretty 
 well, although we had hard fare at first, but now we have 
 found out the way to take care of ourselves. Since the 
 weather has moderated, we have been pretty well drilled, and, 
 considering the inexperience of officers and men, are allowed 
 to have made great progress ; but the men have not yet had 
 all their clothing, and some of them are, I must say, very 
 
THE SETTLER. 35 
 
 ragged. I should have no objection to the regiment's being 
 kept on as a regular provincial corps, as it is the opinion of 
 many it would save the expense of sending out troops from 
 home, and it would be advantageous to have men acquainted 
 with the nature of the country. Were this plan carried out, 
 I fancy I have a good chance of a company, being fourth on 
 the list, and pretty well in the good graces of the Colonel ; 
 but if you wish it, I will endeavour to arrange matters so as 
 to come home. I have already let my farm for four years, 
 it being my intention at the termination of my military 
 service to seek some civil or mercantile situation. During 
 the four years my farm will improve, and at the same time 
 cost me nothing. Meanwhile, I may be able to do some- 
 thing for myself. I should like at the end of the time 
 to come home, but should be unwilling to return empty- 
 handed." .... 
 
 " FORT ERIE, July 3, 1838. 
 
 "MY DEAR MOTHER, I thought that ere this I should 
 have taken some decided steps with regard to my future 
 proceedings ; but I am still soldiering, the Governor having 
 requested us to continue our services until the 1st August, 
 there not being a sufficient regular force at his disposal to 
 guard the frontier without the assistance of the provincial 
 corps. At the same time, as the period for which our men 
 enlisted expired on the 1st of this month, such of them as 
 wished were at liberty to go. So, as this is the season for 
 agricultural work, our ranks have been slightly thinned. 
 How much longer we may be kept on, I cannot say. On the 
 21st of last month, a large party of rebels, estimated at from 
 
36 THE SETTLER. 
 
 two to five hundred, assembled in this district. Many of them 
 crossed at night from the American shore in small parties. 
 They assembled in the township of Pelham, noted as being 
 a disloyal part of the district. It is generally known by the 
 name of the Short Hills. They attacked a party of four- 
 teen of a provincial corps of Lancers, stationed at a village 
 called St John's, A great many shots were fired into the 
 house ; and it appeared not improbable that the outlaws 
 would have burnt it to the ground, when this danger was 
 averted by the surrender of the Lancers. Four rebels and 
 one Lancer were wounded. The Sedentary Militia were 
 turned out, and some of the 24th Eegiment marched in pur- 
 suit of the insurgents, or rather rioters, who dispersed in 
 all directions, setting the Lancers at liberty. A great many 
 have been taken: they have been hunted all through the 
 woods ; and their leader, who calls himself Colonel, has been 
 captured. These futile and ridiculous attempts scarcely 
 merit the name of rebellion ; but they serve to harass and 
 annoy the Royalists, and keep alive the excitement along 
 the borders, which, however, is fast subsiding. There are 
 rumours of fresh disturbances in the west ; but they do not 
 appear to be confirmed, The idea of an American war 
 seems in a great measure to have been given up. Both 
 Governments are exerting themselves to preserve peace, 
 and the Americans are displaying a tardy sincerity in their 
 endeavours to keep down the sympathisers. 
 
 " Since I last wrote, I have been a little on the move. I 
 was ordered to take charge of a company going on detach- 
 ment to a place called Point Abino, about twelve or fourteen 
 miles distant, We remained there from the 5th June till 
 
THE SETTLER. 37 
 
 the 2d July. It is a very pretty spot for Canada, where 
 the landscape is generally exceedingly flat and monotonous. 
 It is a point running about a mile into the lake, consisting 
 of a number of small steep hills, most of them covered with 
 wood. It is considered a strong position : and there was a 
 rumour that a party intended to effect a landing there ; but 
 they never made their appearance. Our detachment con- 
 sisted of two small companies, under the command of a 
 Major. We often wished they would come : we have been 
 playing at soldiers now for upwards of six months, and have 
 not had the satisfaction of seeing a single shot fired, or even 
 the shadow of an encounter. I am now stationed at Fort 
 Erie, so called, for the fort is nothing but a heap of ruins, 
 with half-filled-up ditches and mud bastions. We are 
 quartered in some old houses, which have been repaired. 
 It is a good joke, that the old house which was condemned 
 by the Quartermaster as being unfit for repairing, has been 
 made officers' quarters ; but myself and four others have 
 taken possession of an old store, or what, at home, you. 
 would call a shop, close to the water a delightful place in 
 summer, but, I should imagine, rather cold in winter. I am 
 writing in full view of Buffalo, which lies along the water's 
 edge, with a number of small craft anchored at its wharves. 
 I was really quite surprised, when over there some time 
 ago, to see two large three-masted square-rigged ships and 
 some barques, which navigate these inland seas. Buffalo is 
 a straggling town ; looks from here, about a mile and a 
 half distant, a mass of red and white buildings, apparently 
 larger than Caermarthen, with some good houses and two 
 or three very large hotels, It is really a very surprising 
 
38 THE SETTLER. 
 
 place, when you consider that twenty years ago it was only 
 a small village. 
 
 ****** 
 "The intention of raising a standing black corps seems 
 to have been given up ; so that it is necessary for me to 
 determine what course I am to take on the disbanding of 
 
 our regiment I believe that if nothing advantageous 
 
 offers here, it will be both my duty and interest to return 
 
 home as soon as I can complete my final arrangements 
 
 I fancy I have gained some experience, if God will enable me 
 to .use it. I may be of use to my father ; if not, we may 
 concert further measures. The more I think of my return, 
 the more I long to see the family circle, and trust it may be 
 all as I left it. I often imagine to myself the party in 
 schoolroom, or in parlour, or in your walks on the turnpike 
 road. I beg you will present my apology to all who feel in- 
 dignant and, I blush to say, justly so at my neglectful 
 correspondence ; but I generally consider my letters public 
 property. I shall mention no names ; but the parties 
 aggrieved will, no doubt, take it to themselves. At all 
 events, I hope if I make my appearance before Christmas, 
 that I may meet no black looks on that account. With best 
 love and wishes to ALL at home, I remain ever yours, 
 
 "JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 He did return home before Christmas. Having settled his 
 affairs in Canada, he took a passage in a vessel laden with 
 timber from Quebec to Milford. To save his mother from 
 anxiety on his account during his voyage, he did not tell his 
 family the time of his leaving America, which, for her sake, 
 
THE SETTLEE. 39 
 
 was fortunate, as they had a very long and stormy passage 
 across the Atlantic, so unpleasant in every way, that he often 
 said that it was this voyage which cured him of his boyish 
 disappointment at not having gone to sea. They very nar- 
 rowly escaped being shipwrecked off Cape Loop in Ireland, 
 and being weary of the sea, (the vessel, too, being likely to be 
 detained for repairs,) he landed, crossed the country and the 
 channel from Waterf ord to Milf ord, and walked into his home, 
 from which he had now been absent rather more than three 
 years and a half. 
 
 He remained in England until April 1840, when he 
 returned to Canada. Nothing had occurred to keep him in 
 England, and he could not yet decide on entering the Church. 
 His departure was hastened by his presence being required 
 on his farm, which his tenant had quitted without giving 
 any notice. He again took his passage in a Milford timber- 
 ship bound for Quebec, taking a boy with him, the son of 
 the parish clerk. 
 
 It was a lovely spring morning when the Cheviot weighed 
 anchor, spread her white sails to the breeze, and steered out 
 of Milford Haven. The sailors were in high spirits, promis- 
 ing themselves a fair, quick passage ; while the steady pre- 
 valence of east winds for some weeks made those at home 
 fondly believe that the voyage would be prosperous. On 
 the 1st May, his name was often mentioned in the family 
 circle. The morning was singularly warm and sunny, and 
 they rejoiced to think that he must have nearly landed by that 
 time. A few weeks after, his father brought in the report 
 one morning that the Cheviot was lost. This terrible tidings 
 was not willingly believed, until a letter arrived from the 
 
40 THE SETTLER, 
 
 owners stating the fact, and enclosing one from the captain. 
 It contained no names, nor even a hint that lives had been 
 lost or saved. A messenger was quickly despatched to the 
 post town, three miles distant, and before long the follow- 
 ing letter relieved their suspense : 
 
 " DEER ISLAND, GARIA BAT, NEWFOUNDLAND, 
 May 8, 1840. 
 
 " MY DEAE FATHER, I write now, in the hope that some 
 opportunity may occur of forwarding a letter before we get 
 to Halifax, and I trust that this will be the first intelligence 
 you will get of us and the Cheviot. Thank God, we are all 
 here safe and sound, but our vessel is lost, though all the 
 baggage is saved. I will now try and give you an account 
 of our voyage and shipwreck, premising that, as far as I can 
 see, not the slightest blame can be attached to any one for 
 this unpleasant affair. 
 
 " We had fine weather, and made a good run the first week ; 
 the next we did not do so well, and the third scarcely better, 
 having some rough weather and very little fair wind. We 
 soon discovered that the vessel was a very heavy sailer, and 
 did not work well. We made the bank of Newfoundland on 
 the 24th ult., in lat. 46 K, and ascertained by soundings 
 that the vessel was twenty or thirty miles ahead of the reck- 
 oning. Fearing the Virgin Kocks, which we knew to be not 
 far off, we tacked and stood off south till we were off the 
 bank in lat. 44 59' N. We then had the wind to the south. 
 We saw some fishing vessels at anchor on the 27th. We 
 were on the Green Bank on the 28th ; we lay to in a heavy 
 gale and snowfall from the N.W. On the 29th, the wind 
 
THE SETTLER. 41 
 
 moderated. We then stood to the N., and in the evening 
 made Cape Chapeau Rouge at the entrance of Placentia Bay. 
 Here we tacked and stood off south, the wind coming off 
 shore. Stood W.N.W. for St Peter's, which we made about 
 morning with a fine, fair breeze, and steered N.W. for the 
 entrance of the gulf. During the afternoon the breeze 
 increased ; at six o'clock we began to take in the studding- 
 sails, when the starboard foretopmast-studding-sail-boom was 
 carried away. We got these sails in, and also the larboard 
 ones; took in topgallantsails, and close-reefed the foretop. 
 While the men were reefing the rnaintopsail, the sheet of the 
 fore was carried away. The captain, cook, and myself, clewed 
 it up ; and as soon as the men came down, it was furled, and 
 also the foresail ; the mainsail had been furled at four o'clock. 
 The gale now increased very much, and we lay to at about 
 eight o'clock. The reason for lying to, was our fear that we 
 might meet the ice coming out of the gulf. The wind was 
 E.S.E., the ship's head N.N.E. ; and we supposed that the 
 current was setting out of the gulf against us. (I am obliged 
 to stop writing, to put my things on board a small schooner, 
 which is to take them to a place called La Poile, where there 
 is a Merchants'-room, as it is called, whence a vessel is about 
 to sail for Halifax in a few days.) 
 
 "La Poile, May 11. To return to my narrative. We 
 found the Cheviot lay to badly under the maintopsail, so we 
 endeavoured to reef the trysail, which was bailed up and 
 furled. But in the confusion of the darkness, and the 
 violence of the wind and snow, the sail was quite unmanage- 
 able. We hung a lantern in the rigging, fearing lest any 
 ships might be running before the wind for the gulf. I saw 
 
42 THE SETTLER. 
 
 that the captain felt uneasy, and I was not very comfortable 
 myself ; the principal dread was that we might carry away 
 the topmast-sheet, and drift against the ice. About twelve, 
 I lay down, only taking off my boots ; soon after, a heavy 
 spray broke on board, rushed into the cabin, and inundated 
 some things under my berth. I turned Tom out, put his bed- 
 things out of the wet, and fell into a kind of doze, when I 
 heard a crash, jumped up, and ran to the door. The cap- 
 tain was out before me. At first I thought that only the 
 sheet was gone, but was surprised that the vessel had so little 
 motion, with such violent crashing and trembling. Immedi- 
 ately there was a cry, ' We are all gone we are on the ice 
 she will sink directly ! ' I ran and turned out young Tom, 
 who, having been asleep the whole time, could not think what 
 was the matter, and put him in the boat. Some were look- 
 ing for the axe to cut the gripes of the long-boat ; others, 
 apparently paralysed with fear, sat in the boat, crying out 
 most piteously. It was very dark, the hurricane was terrific, 
 the sea was all white around us, which we took for ice, and 
 the spray kept washing over us. I took out my knife, and 
 attempting to sever the lanyard of the gripes, succeeded 
 only in cutting my thumb. So I lent it to a boy who 
 seemed inclined to work, and immediately afterwards lost 
 my cap. Poor little Tom entreated, in a lamentable voice, to 
 be told what was the matter, and what he should do. I 
 assured him that his life was in great danger ; and added 
 that all he could do was to pray, and not attempt to leave 
 the boat. Nor did he fail to cry earnestly to the Lord to 
 have mercy on us. I had seen some darkish object, which 
 we took for smooth water, inside the ice, which gave great 
 
THE SETTLER. 43 
 
 hopes. As the thick fog gradually cleared off, we observed 
 land close to us. We were then getting up the oars, when 
 we found that we were on the rocks, and that there was no 
 ice at all. The sea broke heavily outside, but only the spray 
 came over us. This gave us great hopes of our lives. 
 
 " I now began to think of saving my baggage ; put my gold 
 about me, and seized my portmanteau. Meanwhile, the 
 men had a glass of grog each. We ascertained that it would 
 soon be high water, (it was a little after two that we struck,) 
 and thought that we had better wait till daylight, before 
 attempting to leave the vessel. At the recoil of the waves 
 we could see the rocks dry and close, three or four yards 
 from us. At about four, day dawned ; it appeared very long 
 in coming. We felt hungry, and had some bread and butter. 
 
 " The sea began soon to strike the vessel more heavily, 
 rolling her on to the starboard side, next the land, and let- 
 ting her fall back on the other. There appeared as yet no 
 water in the hold ; we rather wished her to fill, as she would 
 then be more steady, and less likely to go to pieces. Being 
 fearful of her falling over on the larboard side towards the 
 sea, and getting on her beam-ends, by slipping on the rock, 
 I called the mate's attention to the danger, and, consulting 
 together, we thought it best to try and get on shore. In the 
 meantime the vessel began to lean more to the sea, rolling 
 up and falling back with heavy crashes. One man, William 
 James, of Goodwick, got down the side with a ladder, and a 
 line round his body, but had great difficulty in reaching the 
 shore ; sometimes the sea left him dry on a bit of rock, at 
 others it washed nearly over him, and he had a small deep 
 place to cross before he landed. At last he succeeded, but 
 
44 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 was unable, from cold and exhaustion, to draw the rope on 
 shore, which was attached to the line ; and the tide rising, 
 it was very dangerous to try again. Soon it began to clear, 
 and the gale having slightly moderated, we waited a little 
 longer. The tide did not appear to fall till nearly nine o'clock. 
 The water now was nearly up to the beams, and the ship 
 was much steadier. 
 
 " The land presented a most desolate aspect : a low rocky 
 shore, a few stunted spruce, rocky barren hills, and not a 
 vestige of inhabitants. The gale moderated, the tide ebbed ; 
 we put on some dry clothes, and got together blankets and a 
 few light things. Two hours back, my thoughts had ranged 
 from my dear English home to the eternal future on which I 
 seemed about to enter. I had resolved, with God's help, to 
 do all I could to save my life, caring for nothing else ; now 
 that life seemed safe, I felt a slight sorrow for my two poor 
 chests in the steerage. 
 
 "Rescued from death, we began to think of landing, 
 which appeared tolerably easy, when there was a shout 
 that some men were at hand. Five fishermen now came 
 to our assistance ; another line was thrown, and reached by 
 them ; some of the men and things went on shore. The 
 fishermen told us that at twelve the ship would be dry ; so 
 we sent ashore as much provisions as we could my chests 
 and all the men's clothes, with two or three studdingsails to 
 make tents. The poor captain cried much at leaving the 
 ship. We landed dry by a ladder over the bows. Never 
 shall I forget my sensations when I stood on solid ground. 
 I hope and think that gratitude to Heaven was the first pre- 
 dominant feeling. Oh, never may I forget His mercies ! 
 
THE SETTLER. 45 
 
 May my life be dedicated to His service ! There were several 
 rocks outside the channel ; on them the sea broke awfully, 
 and if we had struck there, not a soul, in all human proba- 
 bility, would have escaped to tell the tale. Within a short 
 distance there were some points more exposed, where the 
 vessel would have gone to pieces, and most likely some have 
 perished; whereas, not only was every life saved, but 
 scarcely a single article belonging to any individual was 
 lost. It was, however, very disgusting to see some of the 
 men, just escaped from the brink of eternity, and who were 
 at the moment apparently deeply impressed, now thoroughly 
 intoxicated, having free access to the stores, though since 
 that time they have behaved very well. 
 
 " We soon found that we were on a small island, as per 
 first dating, about thirty miles eastward from Cape Kay; 
 that there were only two houses near on the main island of 
 Newfoundland, and a few others three or four miles apart 
 along the coast. 
 
 " The captain went on shore with the fishermen, most of 
 the crew going with him. The first mate, with myself, re- 
 mained on the island, in addition to three or four more who 
 were for the most part drunk, to take care of the things. 
 One of my little hams, which you thought I should have 
 taken to Upper Canada with me, was eaten raw ; I thought 
 it very good. A fire was lit ; we put up a tent for ourselves. 
 I got my baggage together, and tried to make a shelter for 
 it with a sail During the night, it rained hard ; my bed 
 was wet in the tent, which, being badly made, leaked con- 
 siderably. In the morning, we had abundance of rain and 
 snow. We made, however, a pretty good breakfast ; and 
 
46 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 the fishermen coming off, I went on shore with one of them, 
 got another breakfast, went to bed for a couple of hours, 
 and then returned to the island. Some more things were 
 brought out of the ship. We made a fine large tent with 
 the mainsail and a topsail over it, capable of holding all 
 hands, baggage, and provisions. Got the caboose and set it 
 up, and prepared to sleep in the tent. Sent Tom ashore, as 
 he wished to go. The next day, we came with the fishermen 
 to this place, the Merchants'-room of La Poile, as it is called, 
 to know how we were to get away, and to dispose of the 
 vessel, there being no agent for Lloyd's within a hundred 
 miles, and no vessels, but fishing boats and small coasters of 
 fifteen or twenty tons. Here, there is an establishment of a 
 Jersey Company, for the purpose of trading goods for fish, and 
 a little fur, the only produce of this dreary region the bar- 
 renest I ever saw. The only means of travelling is by boats. 
 "On our way, which was along shore, among rocks and 
 small islands, we landed at the bottom of a deep inlet, 
 and walked two miles over a hilly piece of ground, and 
 through a little wood of spruce fir, till we came to another 
 bay. We saved several miles of pulling by the journey. The 
 coast is very much indented by bays, and long crooked pro- 
 montories running into the sea, with numerous islands. It 
 has a very wild and picturesque appearance. There are a 
 great number of excellent little coves for keeping small boats, 
 in most of which a fisherman is established, each having a 
 harbour to himself, and generally a particular fishing ground. 
 They are a rough-looking set, fitted out with long boots and 
 numerous flannel shirts; they seem happy and contented, 
 
THE SETTLER. 47 
 
 live pretty well, and sometimes earn a good deal if they have, 
 as they say, good luck. 
 
 "Halifax, May 19. Here comes another break in my 
 letter. I have, as you see by the date, taken a journey in the 
 interim. After getting what information we could from the 
 Jersey Company's agent at La Poile, it appeared that the 
 best thing we could do was to take the opportunity of one 
 of their vessels (the brig Pallas) sailing for this place. The 
 other alternative was hiring some of the small coasters to 
 take us up the gulf to some of the ports there, whence we 
 might procure a passage to Quebec, or get put on board 
 some vessel bound there ; but, from what we could learn, we 
 should have better and surer opportunity from this place, so 
 we returned to the island. The materials of the vessel were 
 saved, and taken to La Poile to be sold. I dried the con- 
 tents of my deal chest, which had been wetted by the rain 
 after we came ashore, and made myself quite comfortable in 
 the tent. I found Tom very useful in looking after the 
 things, and I consider myself very fortunate in having lost 
 nothing to my knowledge, but my old cap (blown off in our 
 first confusion) a loss which, of fcourse, / lament very 
 deeply* 
 
 " On the 8th, having put my baggage on board a small 
 schooner, laden with the saved materials, with five of the 
 crew, we came to La Poile, whence the second part of my 
 letter is dated. There I took up my quarters, using my own 
 bedding, in the house of Mr Antoine, agent attached to the 
 
 * There was a joke between him and his sisters about this cap, which 
 they had decided to be too shabby to be worn. 
 
48 THE SETTLER. 
 
 firm, 'Michel et Antoine.' There are five or six clerks, Jersey 
 men, a master builder, fifty or sixty hands, shipwrights, 
 smiths, &c. &c., shippers of the coasters, belonging to the 
 employ. These sum up all the inhabitants of this place, 
 with the exception of the custom-house officer, who is also a 
 magistrate. He has not much to do, as you may suppose. 
 They build a few vessels here for their own trade, which is 
 tolerably extensive, consisting of an exchange of goods for 
 cod fish with the planters, as the fishermen are called. They 
 also make no small profit, about these parts, upon the ' god- 
 sends ' they get in the way of wrecks ; indeed, in a great 
 measure they fit out their vessels with such materials. On 
 the 12th, all hands, with the remainder of the stuff, came 
 down. We had a capital sale : a chain cable fetched 8 ; sails, 
 50s. ; the hull, as it lay bottom out, lower and topmasts, 16. 
 I wish it were nearer Pembrokeshire or Dunnville. 
 
 " On the same evening we sailed for this place, where we 
 arrived to-day, being a week going three hundred miles. 
 Though tedious, (a little rough weather and plenty of foul 
 winds,) it was rather a pleasant voyage. We had for a 
 fellow-passenger a very amusing good-tempered Irish Roman 
 Catholic priest, and the captain, a very gentlemanly young 
 man, a native of Jersey. He was exceedingly kind and civil 
 to us. I have begged him, if ever he should be driven into 
 Milford, to call on you at Johnston. 
 
 "The day being very calm with baffling winds, W 
 
 and 'I took the pilot's little skiff, and one man, leaving the 
 brig six miles off, and pulled for the town, where we arrived 
 about four o'clock. The appearance of Nova Scotia about 
 here is more pleasing than most of Newfoundland, though 
 
THE SETTLER. 49 
 
 it is not very fertile about Halifax. We found that the 
 packet had sailed four days ago, but that a vessel was to 
 leave for England in one or two days, by which I determined 
 to send this scrawl, in spite of all blunders. 
 
 "There are also two vessels to sail in a few days for 
 Quebec, in one of which I think I shall proceed. If I am 
 here long, I shall write again, in case this may miscarry. 
 I do hope you will not have received any imperfect or exag- 
 gerated account before hearing from me. However incon- 
 venient this unfortunate affair may be to me, it is a source 
 of great thankfulness that it is no worse : we might have 
 perished, or we might have escaped with the loss of all our 
 possessions ; whereas I have been a loser only in the precious 
 article of time, incurring, of course, some additional travelling 
 expenses. On the other hand, I have had an opportunity of 
 seeing a little of Newfoundland and Halifax. Please tell 
 young Tom's parents, that he is quite well, getting fat, not- 
 withstanding all his hardships, in good spirits, with plenty 
 to eat and very little to do. He was quite happy in two or 
 three hours after the vessel struck, and behaved well all 
 through. The crew will all do well here, as hands are much 
 wanted, and wages higher than anywhere out of Wales ! It 
 is getting late, and I am getting sleepy. May God Almighty 
 be with you all ! JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 A few extracts from his diary will prove interesting, as 
 shewing the bent of his mind at this period : 
 
 "May 1st. Most graciously preserved, when shipwrecked 
 on Deer Island, Garia Bay. 
 
 D 
 
50 THE SETTLER. 
 
 " 9th. Went to La Poile, and was hospitably entertained 
 by Mr Antoine at the Merchants'-room. The whole coast 
 is composed of granite, which in some places attains a con- 
 siderable elevation. These cliffs, as far as my observation 
 extended, are from four to five hundred feet above the level 
 of the sea, and much water-worn. In the upper end of 
 La Poile Bay, there is a kind of greenish flagstone, used at 
 the room for building the foundations of houses, for the 
 granite is too hard to work with a mason's hammer, and 
 either in the form of boulders or masses is far too unwieldy 
 for common purposes. 
 
 ****** 
 
 "May I9th. Arrived at Halifax. 
 
 " 23cZ, (Saturday.) I am obliged to keep a journal, lest 
 I should forget the days of the week. 
 
 "In the afternoon I took a stroll with Captain L ; 
 
 spent a short time at Keefa's reading-room, an accommoda- 
 tion which may with advantage be introduced into similar 
 institutions. I had been struck with the profound silence 
 that reigned here, undisturbed by the busy hum or noisy 
 talking often heard at such places. This is in reality a 
 reading-room. Opposite to the entrance is a second door, 
 leading to a small apartment, with the words ' Conversation- 
 room" over it, in large gilt letters, with two directing 
 hands. If this room be not much used for this purpose, the 
 hint is certainly taken in the other, to the great comfort, no 
 doubt, of those who wish to get information for themselves, 
 rather than have it retailed second-hand, and seasoned with 
 small talk and additions. 
 
 "25th, (Monday.) Yesterday attended St Paul's Church, 
 
THE SETTLER. 51 
 
 a large and rather old wooden building, surrounded by a 
 heavy gallery. The congregation was numerous, and highly 
 respectable; amongst them the Lieutenant-Governor and 
 several officers. I had gone with the fullest intention of 
 endeavouring to render acceptable service to the Almighty, 
 or rather of joining as a privilege in the worship of that 
 God who had but lately so graciously preserved me ; but, 
 alas ! my wandering thoughts and eyes were everywhere 
 but where they should have been. In the church are 
 several neat tablets in memory of some of the principal in- 
 habitants who have died in the colony, and on the wall at 
 the back of the gallery a number of hatchments, which in- 
 dicate a higher degree of aristocratic feeling than is 
 generally supposed to exist on this continent, even in the 
 British Provinces. 
 
 " Wednesday. I took a walk as far as Three-Mile House 
 on the Windsor Koad. The whole country appears to be 
 exceedingly sterile and rocky, the ground much broken, 
 the timber being, for the most part, spruce or fir. Notwith- 
 standing this, there are several neat residences, surrounded 
 by fields presenting a fertile appearance, no doubt owing 
 to the facility of obtaining manure from Halifax. 
 
 " June 3d The drive by Bedford Basin is very beautiful. 
 The trees were just beginning to shoot ; the light green of 
 the birch contrasting exquisitely with the dark, almost black, 
 hemlock spruce, and those other firs which generally pre- 
 dominate. About five miles from Halifax are the ruins of a 
 country-house built by the late Duke of Kent when in this 
 country ; the situation is very pretty, on the side of rather a 
 steep slope covered with the original forest, which has been 
 
52 THE SETTLEK. 
 
 tastefully laid out in walks and pleasure-grounds, with the 
 basin presenting a most beautiful sheet of water in front. 
 
 " June 5th. My landlady told me one evening that a man 
 wanted to see me. On going down-stairs, I saw a roughish- 
 looking fellow with a prodigious quantity of black whiskers, 
 who introduced himself as from Pembrokeshire, and hearing 
 that there was a countryman in the house, had taken the 
 
 liberty of asking for him. He was one James B , from 
 
 the parish of N , who has been in Nova Scotia six or 
 
 seven years, a relation of your neighbour, David B . He 
 
 seemed very glad to see some one from his native country, so 
 
 I took him to Captain G and W , who were from 
 
 the same neighbourhood, and could give him news of his 
 family. He says he has done pretty well here, principally 
 by horse-jobbing, and a little speculating in land. He gave 
 me an invitation to go out and see the country where he 
 lived, about twenty-three miles from Halifax an opportunity 
 of which I was glad to avail myself. He has married a nice 
 sensible woman, (a Nova Scotian.) The road lay along 
 Bedford Basin for about nine miles, and is the stage route to 
 Windsor on the Bay of Fundy. For the most part it is very 
 tolerable, though in some parts hilly and rough. There is a 
 great deal of forest, and in one place some pretty extensive 
 clearings. The land is not fertile, but improves the further 
 we get from Halifax. The most fertile part of Nova Scotia 
 is on the Bay of Fundy, in the townships of Horton and 
 Gornwallis. I was invited to see this district by some 
 farmers I met at my boarding-house, who said there was no 
 land worth looking at within thirty miles of Halifax ; but I 
 had not time to accept their invitation. I spent the night at 
 
THE SETTLER. 53 
 
 and walked with him some two or three miles back. 
 The fire had been making great ravages in the woods. I saw 
 one patch of ten acres burnt quite black. Indeed, a short 
 time back, Halifax was quite darkened by the clouds of smoke 
 from the woods behind the town, and the inhabitants, all 
 through the country, have been in fear for their houses. 
 These fires appear to be common here, for I saw the marks of 
 several on a very large scale, which have destroyed parts of 
 the woods years ago. The next day, as I could not remain, 
 my host drove me to within thirteen miles of Halifax ; and I 
 walked back, expecting to sail the following morning, but we 
 did not get men for three or four days, and when we did get 
 them, they were but a poor set. 
 
 " Wednesday, June 1 Qth. Becalmed off Cape Gaspd We 
 sailed from Halifax on the 3d. 
 
 "June loth. Yesterday I had a disappointment. As we 
 were beating up with a head-wind, we saw a brig coming 
 with an ensign, shewing that she had a pilot. We made a 
 signal, they lowered a boat to put him on board : as it 
 came alongside, I recognised the cabin-boy we had had in 
 the Effort, now with Rees in the Triton, which was bearing 
 down, homeward bound. What a fine opportunity to send a 
 letter ! We were not near enough to speak, but I asked the 
 boy to call at Johnston and say he had seen us. What a pity 
 I did not take my passage in her ! I should then have had 
 potatoes planted by this time, and oats sown ; but it cannot 
 be helped. At present, we have a fair light breeze, and are 
 off the Island of Brie, a hundred and sixty miles from Quebec, 
 with very fine weather. 
 
 " V7th. We are still ninety miles from Quebec, with a 
 
54 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 foul wind. My hands are sore with working in tacking ship ; 
 one of the crew is ill. If I were not in a hurry to get on, I 
 might find this cruising about the river very pleasant during 
 this fine weather. The vessel is the most comfortable one I 
 was ever in, and the captain is very kind and obliging. He 
 will perhaps call at Johnston when he gets home. He talks 
 much about his daughter, who, he says, is twelve years old. 
 I have lent him ' Means and Ends ' to look at, as he seems 
 anxious about her education. 
 
 " I have set Tom to write a letter home. He is a very good 
 boy, and a general favourite with all the crews of the vessels 
 in which he has sailed particularly with the old cook of the 
 Cheviot, who is here. That old man was with Nelson at 
 Trafalgar ; in the mutiny at the Nore ; has been several times 
 shipwrecked ; is now sixty-eight years of age ; going to sea 
 still ; but has no pension, nor any other provision for his old 
 age, owing to his wildness and unsteadiness of character." 
 
 The next letter is written from the Lake Shore. 
 
 " July 10, 1840. 
 
 "MY DEAR MOTHER, You are by this time, no doubt, 
 acquainted with the cause of my having been so long on my 
 
 journey I hope you will not think I am getting quite 
 
 a heathen, because I have taken an hour on Sunday to write 
 to you ; but I don't know when I shall have any other time, 
 there is so much to be done. I found matters here better 
 
 than I expected I fancy you would rather know 
 
 something of my domestic arrangements, and I assure you I 
 am in a wonderfully comfortable condition. Tom is a most 
 
THE SETTLER. 55 
 
 indefatigable and invaluable fellow, and of a very cheerful 
 disposition : he seems quite happy and contented, and will 
 soon be very handy. The inventory of my furniture is rather 
 meagre, to be sure ; consisting of one table, one stool, one 
 dresser, and one small clothes-horse, which I was rather 
 surprised to see ; there are, besides, a couple of pails, pans, 
 &c. You cannot think how comfortable we look ; the small 
 dresser well filled with plates, &c. &c. ; the kitchen nicely 
 swept and clean. I am sitting at the open window the 
 grass and Dutch clover between me and the woods about 
 twenty yards distant, in the height of their beauty ; and 
 about fifty yards further is the lake, just glancing through 
 the thin parts of the trees. The day is bright and lovely, 
 and we are being regaled with a fine, fresh breeze. How 
 you would enjoy it ! Tom is sitting in the next room, de- 
 nominated the parlour, reading aloud (that mode seems to 
 suit him best) the story of the Widow Ellis. The rippling 
 lake, rustling leaves, and tinkling bells of a few cattle stray- 
 ing near, with now and then a chirp from a bird, form but a 
 slight interruption to the quiet and repose of all around. 
 Perhaps it is the solitude of the place, the feeling of rest, or 
 the having no work to do, that makes everything appear so 
 quiet. There is one pleasure on the Sunday, which none but 
 the labouring man can know ; and a labouring man I am 
 at present of a verity, for hands are scarce and wages high." 
 
 " October 4, 1840. 
 
 ". . . . Lately I went to plough with a very primitive 
 instrument, called a shovel plough, in a piece of land half- 
 cleared by Mills, and finished by me and Tom with a little 
 
56 THE SETTLER 
 
 assistance. Since then, however, my work has been broken 
 in upon, in consequence of my having had a slight attack of 
 ague, which, after shaking me every other day for a week, 
 took its departure, leaving me very feeble ; but, thank God, 
 I am now quite well again. I hope you will not distress 
 yourself with the idea of my being ill, and no one to look 
 after me : I assure you that when I am unwell, I take 
 infinite care of myself, and have drilled Tom into a capital 
 
 nurse : he must have thought me very cross. Mrs M 
 
 was very kind to me, mixed my quinine in proper propor- 
 tions, and lent me a wine-glass to measure the dose 
 
 Though my situation is solitary, time flies too fast for me, I 
 have so much to do. I burnt some lime the other day. 
 Having picked up the limestone on the beach, I put it on a 
 large log-heap in the clearing, and set fire to it a very 
 simple process. I wanted it to put with my seed wheat, and 
 for the plastering of the kitchen. The next job I have to 
 do is to split rails to fence the wheat; then I shall com- 
 mence ploughing, and getting out stumps : when the frost 
 stops the plough, I shall still have plenty of work. You 
 see I have quite entered into the spirit of the farm again ; 
 though the toil has some disadvantages, I should.be sorry 
 
 to relinquish it 
 
 " As I know you are interested in animals of the feline 
 race, you may not think it trifling if I tell you that I have 
 two cats, both of which came as volunteers. One is the 
 finest animal of the kind I ever saw. He walked into the 
 house one cold evening : we shut the door suddenly ; he 
 made desperate efforts to escape, and I was alarmed for the 
 windows and my eyes. After having been imprisoned for 
 
THE SETTLER 57 
 
 four days, he made off; was succeeded by another smaller 
 one ; eventually, however, he too returned. These and a black 
 dog, named Judy, whom Tom considers as company when I 
 am away, complete my domestic establishment. .... I can- 
 not write this evening ; I have been regularly ploughing. I 
 talk, think, and dream of ploughing ; the idea of it haunts 
 me. Every frosty morning and each shower of snow makes 
 me think of approaching winter, and I am fearful of not 
 getting the work done in anticipation of its arrival." 
 
 It was during his Canadian life that he became ac- 
 quainted with one who remained his friend to the last 
 the Rev. C. B. Gribble. Ministerial intercourse in the 
 mutual relation of pastor and parishioner first associated 
 them. Under the teaching of the one, commenced the new 
 life of the other. What wonder, then, that so firm a bond 
 should have united these faithful servants of Christ, and that 
 the records of the history of the departed brother should be 
 affectionately treasured up by the survivor ? 
 
 To Mr Gribble's graceful pen the editor is indebted for a 
 copious narrative of so much of her brother's life as came 
 under his observation. 
 
 This intimacy was soon followed by Mr Bowen's conver- 
 sion, and, in course of time, by his resolve to enter the 
 ministry of the Church. Over this decisive step their mutual 
 deliberations were numerous, anxious, and protracted; but 
 we need not anticipate the sequel Alluding to Mr Bowen's 
 final determination at this crisis, Mr Gribble thus writes 
 to the editor : 
 
58 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 " Your brother's separation to the ministry of our Lord's 
 gospel was marked by characteristics which justify lan- 
 guage of the highest praise. To describe how devotedly he 
 served the Church of Christ, in his Master's name ; how 
 beautifully he blended with that service the fine native 
 qualities of his character; how easily and consistently he 
 combined with the apostleship the man, the brother, the 
 husband, and the friend, is the design you have proposed to 
 yourself, as his biographer : and if my assistance can further 
 your object, it is a tribute due, and most affectionately paid, 
 to one of my best and dearest friends." * 
 
 Referring to his own arrival in America, the same corre- 
 spondent proceeds as follows ; and his letters may be here 
 quoted as a continuous narrative of Mr Bowen's Canadian 
 life : 
 
 " It was on Easter day in the year 1841, that the American 
 liner Quebec lay at single anchor off Spithead, awaiting the 
 last of her passengers. The Blue Peter had been at the fore 
 since eight in the morning. The cable was hove short, and 
 Captain Hebert had delayed his departure until the arrival 
 of a steamer from Southampton. We that is, my wife, two 
 young children, and two servants came in that steamer, and 
 immediately went on board the Quebec. The anchor was 
 weighed, the topsails and topgallantsails were sheeted home, 
 and by the time we had fitted into our cabins, the ship was 
 standing out to sea through the Needle passage. 
 
 " We found our friends the Hydes on board, and we were 
 
 * See Appendix A. 
 
THE SETTLER. 59 
 
 introduced by them to your sister. I mention this because 
 she was a link which connected me with your brother. Her 
 destination, like that of the Hydes, was the district and 
 parish in Upper Canada to which I was appointed as a 
 missionary from the Society for the Propagation of the 
 Gospel. 
 
 " It was to join her brother, and to keep house for him 
 on his farm, that she had left England. We soon became 
 friends, and that friendship remains to the present hour. 
 
 " The voyage occupied six weeks. There were many pas- 
 sengers on board. Sickness broke out, and the measles 
 swept off several children. Mr Jukes, whom I had married 
 to a daughter of an old friend a few weeks before, caught 
 the disease ; he recovered, and lived to become a distin- 
 guished clergyman. My youngest child received the in- 
 fection ; he drooped till he seemed dead, but God gave him 
 life, and he is now a man of vigour and health, in India. 
 
 "On our arrival in New York, Mr and Mrs Hyde, Mr 
 and Mrs Jukes, (Mr Jukes was Mrs Hyde's son,) with your 
 sister, proceeded at once to Canada ; we followed them a few 
 days afterwards. 
 
 " We sailed up the noble Hudson as far as Albany, where 
 we left the river and proceeded by the canal to Buffalo ; 
 from which city we crossed to the wooded shores of Canada : 
 and, on the second Sunday after landing in the New World, 
 I began my ministry, first at Dunnville, and a few hours 
 afterwards on the Lake Shore. We held our opening ser- 
 vice in the house of your relation Mr Farrell, as the little 
 church on the Lake Shore was not completed. This was 
 the first occasion on which I met your brother. I saw at 
 
60 THE SETTLER. 
 
 once that he was a sensible and gentlemanly young man, 
 and as your sister, with whom we had sailed from England, 
 !>o with him, we felt no difficulty in becoming mutu- 
 ally acquainted. 
 
 "There were at that time some fine energetic men on 
 that Lake Shore. They were distinguished from ordinary 
 s by their intelligence and resources. Their houses 
 were pretty villas with verandahs garnished with creeping 
 plants ; their farms were thriving : their habits were indus- 
 trious and simple ; they assisted each other when the heavy 
 labour of logging, or barn-building, or reaping demanded 
 a larger measure of manual effort than a single proprietor 
 could command. There was consequently much good feeling 
 in the little community. 
 
 They were not only known as farmers : they had honour- 
 ably served their mother country, and the colony in which 
 they were now naturalised, during the Rebellion which dis- 
 turbed Canada two years before ; for it was from that settle- 
 ment that many an undaunted spirit came forward, brave to 
 ;-, and strong to carry out a loyal and dutiful allegiance ; 
 and ever, in the heat of impetuous enterprise, or the cautious 
 delay of protracted counsels, to render signal service to the 
 cause of order. 
 
 " Always in the van, among the readiest for peril, v 
 be found your brother ; serving throughout the entire cam- 
 paign, and enduring all its hardships as a good man and true 
 to the Queen and the realm. 
 
 " I must resist the solicitation which memory offers of 
 describing that young and interesting colony. My present 
 duty is to supply you with a memoir of your brother. Yet 
 
THE SETTLER 61 
 
 it were unfair to detach him entirely from the others, as 
 though he were the only one to be remembered : for there 
 were many fine characters among those settlers ; many 
 Christian men and women ; many loving souls who helped 
 their pastor, who sustained him in his difficult labours, and 
 who adorned and advanced the community to which they 
 belonged. 
 
 "Among .the leaders of that settlement your brother 
 had an honourable place. He was always reliable; his 
 energy, common sense, and good temper were ever ready 
 when required. He had no pretensions to leadership, 
 and his modesty gave no place for envy to detract from 
 the award universally granted to real and unpretending 
 merit. 
 
 " Our pretty little church stood on a wooded eminence 
 near where the ' Grand Eiver ' (or Ouse) floats its lazy 
 waters into Lake Erie. Thence towards the west, the shore 
 of the lake is irregularly denticulated in bays all fringed 
 with trees and jagged by broken rocks. The houses of the 
 settlers, built, of course, on their lots of land, dotted the 
 shore. Your brother's farm was some miles from the 
 church. It consisted, I think, of one hundred and fifty 
 acres. His cottage was very small, having only four rooms 
 and a garret. On your sisters arrival, the establishment 
 well filled the house, although it only comprised John and 
 Louisa and Tom Saunders, a fine useful lad, who has since 
 done very well; and may be one day a member of the 
 Provincial Parliament, or general in the United States' army, 
 or anything else conceivable ! The seclusion of that dwelling 
 _>mplete ; the uncleared part of the surrounding forest 
 
62 THE SETTLER. 
 
 shut out of view the houses of the nearest settlers, and a 
 belt of trees, which John's axe had intentionally spared, 
 excluded all sight of the water, and sheltered the domicile 
 from the strong winds which sometimes scour over the lake, 
 and excite it to that state of fury which led the Indians to 
 denominate it by the appropriate and beautiful name 
 Erie, or madness. 
 
 " Things were then in a very crude and unfinished state. Art 
 and labour had struck out some clear space, which, notwith- 
 standing the yet undecayed stumps of the hewn forest trees, 
 had submitted to the plough, and taken the nomenclature of 
 fields ; but nature reigned close at hand : it was with stubborn 
 reluctance she yielded to the heavy blows dealt to her mag- 
 nificent subjects by the vigorous arms of John Bo wen and 
 his lad Tom. The tenants of the woods often disputed it 
 with the invaders ; wolves still howled and hunted near the 
 farm, and bears were one morning shot by your brother in a 
 field where your sister had been gathering wild strawberries 
 the previous evening. 
 
 " Hard work, sometimes interrupted by attacks of inter- 
 mittent fever caught during his campaign in the Eebellion, 
 did not exhaust your brother's power of mental application ; 
 it made him thirsty for knowledge. 
 
 " The little family read together in the evenings. Some 
 of the subjects of their study were Wilberforce's Life ; Milner ; 
 German ; and poetry. It was a charming refreshment to me 
 on returning from long rides among the more distant settlers, 
 to spend an hour with those dear friends. I vividly remem- 
 ber their warm welcome. I see Louisa with a neat frock 
 actually drawn through the pocket-hole, in the thrifty style 
 
THE SETTLER. 63 
 
 of my grandmother, stooping over the stove to boil some 
 coffee ; John's gun hanging on the wall ; a written notice in 
 a conspicuous place proclaiming war against all untidiness, 
 in these words, 'A place for everything, and everything 
 in its place;' while John's long boots, coated with mud, 
 rebelliously lay at right angles to and across each other upon 
 the floor, as though in defiance of the warning suspended 
 over them. 
 
 " One day, after a long and fatiguing walk through the 
 Rainham district, I stopped on my way home to pay John 
 and Louisa a visit. It was late in the afternoon ; we had tea 
 together; we conversed, and ended our conference with 
 evening prayer. Twilight had faded away ; the stars shone 
 out in rapid and startling succession, as though the great 
 Creator were throwing magnificent seeds of light broadcast 
 over the universe. John proposed to accompany me part of 
 my way home. We walked by the lake shore to a rocky point 
 where the road, following the sweep of a bay, turns with a 
 sharp angle towards the north. The expanse of the lake was 
 before us ; its surface was calm as a child's sleep ; the faint 
 blue line of the mountains on the American side was just 
 visible. The moon rose yellow, and seemingly of monstrous 
 size ; but by the time I had succeeded in resisting John's 
 desire to accompany me further, her light had cleared itself 
 of the atmosphere of earth, and she shone out deliciously clear, 
 like the purity of God. We had spoken together on general 
 topics ; but the stillness and grand beauty of the night gave 
 us higher thoughts, and religion became the principal topic 
 of our conversation. When we stopped to take leave of each 
 other, I asked him if he had given attention to the duty of 
 
64 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 receiving the holy communion. He seemed rather discon- 
 certed at the question, but not offended. He hesitated a 
 little, and replied that he had often wished to speak to me 
 on the subject, but at present he would prefer postponing 
 the discussion; assuring me of his wish to resume it on 
 some other occasion. 
 
 " We parted for that evening. His route led him westward 
 to his cottage ; mine lay in the opposite direction, along a 
 sandy beach indented by little bays and fringed occasionally 
 by trees whose foliage had not yet entirely yielded to the 
 recent blasts of the autumnal equinox. 
 
 " Weeks passed away. The harvest had been gathered in ; 
 the grain was nearly threshed out ; and there were occasional 
 groupings of the settlers at their several homesteads at 
 one time to raise a barn, at another to make a clearance of 
 land, or to repair a road. On such occasions there was a com- 
 mingling of all classes of settlers. Gentlemen and labourers, 
 proprietors and squatters, all worked together. At whatever 
 house or farm the 'bee' was to 'come off,' the ladies of 
 the neighbouring farms assisted. Preparations for a sub- 
 stantial meal were made a day or two before the appointed 
 gathering. Ladies, wives of officers in the army, habituated 
 to the comforts and elegancies of English life, met in the 
 balcony of some cottage, and, in the delicious temperature of 
 the ' Indian summer/ chatted and arranged about the con- 
 tribution which they were severally to bring. Under the 
 delicate canopy of the Virginia creeper, whose leaves were 
 reddening with the last hue which the season lent them, and 
 with the glow-worm emitting its gentle gleam beneath the 
 glorious starlight of a Canadian sky, there would be Mrs 
 
THE SETTLER. 65 
 
 Colonel J and her daughter, Mrs Colonel T and 
 
 her granddaughter, Mrs B and Mrs F and Mrs 
 
 L , and the Misses S , and many other mesdames, 
 
 sitting in serious conclave, and arriving at last at the grand 
 conclusion as to who should provide the mutton, who the 
 hams, who the vegetables, and who the fruits. 
 
 " I look back now over twenty years, and see the merry 
 gathering at the logging bee. Early in the morning the 
 party assembled. Farrell, the Johnstons, dear old Dobbs, 
 willing, but not strong, Hyde, Jukes, Hoggan, the Turlacs, 
 Blunt, Spratt, M'Murdoch, Bouchier, M'Gregor, and many 
 other stalwart fellows, dashed into the thicket. The under- 
 brush fell before them ; some drew it aside and piled it in 
 heaps at given distances from each other. Then commenced 
 an onslaught on noble trees whose heads had reared them- 
 selves up a hundred feet without a single branch below. 
 John Bowen and Alick M'Gregor attack one tree ; other 
 pairs of rustic heroes address themselves to other giants of the 
 forest. Two men to one tree. John takes his axe, a weapon 
 not like our flat and feeble things in England, but an instru- 
 ment of excellent steel with convex sides. Alick handles 
 his. Now then. John on his side strikes a horizontal 
 cut. Alick on his side does the same. John strikes again 
 with an oblique blow, meeting the inmost incision of the 
 first cut ; forthwith springs out a wedge shaped chip. Alick 
 does the same. And now having made their opening, one on 
 either side, next comes a horizontal cut, then an oblique one. 
 Their blows succeed with unerring aim and resistless force, 
 until the sheen of their axes and the flitting chips from the 
 axe-cuts follow, and blend in rapid and continuous succession. 
 
66 THE SETTLER. 
 
 Ten minutes suffice to bring the two axes almost together. 
 The tree groans ; loud cracks are heard ; a crash follows ; 
 and the splendid forest-plant of centuries' growth tumbles ; 
 but not alone ; for others, in noble rivalry, are doing the 
 same; and before the blast of the cow's horn summons them 
 to dinner, acres of land are despoiled of the magnificent 
 vegetation which has grown in the heat and waved in the 
 storms of five hundred years. 
 
 "The dinner over, the spoilers resume their labour. The 
 trees, already felled, are cut into lengths of twenty feet or 
 more : a yoke of oxen with a chain is attached to each log. 
 A given number of logs being dragged to the several heaps 
 of underbrush, fire is in due time applied, and thus, with a 
 waste but unavoidable profusion, the virgin soil is laid bare 
 to the ploughshare and the hand of the sower. 
 
 " In all these exploits your brother did his part like a man 
 and a gentleman. To affirm that he was the first, would be 
 invidious and unjust ; but it is not too much to say that he 
 was a leading spirit in every public duty. And this is say- 
 ing a good deal ; for the English settlers on that lake shore 
 were no ordinary men. They remind me of other bold 
 adventurers who had farms on the Grand River the Ouse 
 which debouches into the lake close by our little church 
 and who were sharers in many a daring enterprise/' 
 
 From this graphic portraying of home scenes, and spirited 
 allusions to displays at one time of manly ardour, at another 
 of military skill, Mr Gribble is naturally led into an epitome 
 of those events which had accomplished the Canadian crisis, 
 and challenged the patriotism of the settlers. His remarks 
 
THE SETTLER. 67 
 
 on this special period of our colonial history come with the 
 force of experience and the accuracy of observation. Nor 
 will less interest be found in his review of the position of 
 the English Church in the West. Established if, indeed, 
 to so insecure an attitude the term be applicable in the 
 very centre of contending factions ; embarrassed in some 
 measure by her political character, yet respected for her 
 wide-spreading influence ; attacked by factious rivals, who 
 forgot, in her presence, their mutual jealousies in order to 
 combine the more effectually for her annoyance it asked no 
 ordinary temper and tact of him who was to be of the num- 
 ber of her office-bearers, to enable him to charm away the 
 animosity that so many faults of judgment and practice had 
 occasioned and increased. 
 
 To Mr Gribble, at this time, Mr Bowen's presence and 
 influence in the district were of great value. The esteem, in 
 which he was held, and the sagacity and experience which 
 he so largely possessed, enhanced the worth of his support. 
 But his pastor shall tell the tale in his own words : 
 
 " The policy of the Canadas had, at the time of my narra- 
 tive, experienced very recently considerable changes. The 
 Rebellion, which, like most rebellions, had been caused by the 
 undue pressure and exclusive political influence of a party, 
 and by the impatience and wantonness of some reckless 
 spirits, eager for change, had been quelled by the loyalty and 
 courage of the faithful subjects of the Queen. The Earl of 
 Durham had proposed, and the Government had consented, 
 to unite the two provinces under one Governor-General, and 
 to designate them in future Canada East and Canada West. 
 
68 THE SETTLER. 
 
 A more liberal policy, and a fairer distribution of office 
 and power, was gradually advancing; self -taxation, under 
 municipal authority, for the support of schools and for the 
 making and maintenance of roads, gave more local liberty of 
 action, and began already to produce great results. 
 
 " The Church was also extending her influence throughout 
 the provinces. The energy of the Bishop of the Western 
 Diocese had long been felt in the political department, and 
 had now begun to stimulate her to more vigorous action. 
 At that period, however, our ecclesiastical community was 
 being strongly moved by an impulse from Oxford ; and 
 although, on the whole, that impulse was beneficial, yet it 
 needed to be more moderate in its tone, and less exaggerated 
 and overbearing in its pretensions. 
 
 "In our district the Church had been in bad odour. The 
 occasional visits of a missionary clergyman had in a measure 
 won over a little more confidence ; but the Presbyterians 
 were from education and prejudice opposed to liturgies and 
 Episcopacy, and many of our members, through violent party 
 feeling and loose living, inflicted serious injury on their own 
 communion. The Methodists were numerous, and were at 
 that time exposed to the misleading of an Arian teacher. 
 The Baptists were zealous, and had then a venerable leader 
 in the worthy ' Elder ' Vauloon. 
 
 " It is obvious that much wisdom, forbearance, and firm- 
 ness were required to make head against the opposing 
 influences of immorality, party spirit, Anabaptism, Presby- 
 terianism, and a Methodism widely away from the doctrines 
 of Wesley or of Wesleyans in England. Ignorance, also, was 
 
THE SETTLER. 69 
 
 a dead weight, that could only be removed by right teaching 
 and sound education ; it shewed itself in non-acquaintance 
 with the common use of words, and in a misapprehension of 
 the nature of true religion. 
 
 " As an instance of the former, some were shocked at the 
 use of the word ' catholic ' in our prayers ; and when told 
 that it meant 'universal,' they asked if, then, we held the 
 creed of the Universalists. And, to illustrate the latter, a 
 member of our Church was one day greatly scandalised, 
 because his wife, who had a leaning towards Methodism, 
 had her gown torn by the violence of some people who were 
 attending a service in a schoolroom, and wished to force her, 
 against her inclination, to take a seat on the 'anxious 
 bench ! ' 
 
 "Americanism also gave a tinge to the inhabitants of 
 Dunnville ; and a few of them, though most worthy souls, 
 were shocked and disgusted because a coloured woman was 
 admitted with them to the holy communion. But there 
 were some excellent and intelligent people members of the 
 Church, and many true Christians in the other Societies ; 
 and the general demeanour of all was marked with extreme 
 kindness, warm hospitality, and a desire for improvement. 
 
 " Your brother's pastor felt no hesitation as to the course 
 he should pursue : the preaching of the gospel of God ; a 
 straightforward and faithful adherence to the principles and 
 services of the Church ; kind remonstrance with those of her 
 members who were neglecting or abusing their privileges 
 and duties as baptized members of Christ ; resistance to the 
 overbearing tone of one section of the Church, which then 
 
70 THE SETTLER. 
 
 assumed dictation over the consciences of the clergy ; an 
 affectionate conciliation of Dissenters, and the cultivation of 
 friendly relations with all of every creed and name. 
 
 " For some little time, he encountered strong opposition. 
 The immoral represented him as a meddler in their concerns. 
 The Dissenters looked coolly on him, because he was a Church- 
 man. The extreme Church party disapproved of his leniency 
 towards Dissenters. So intense, indeed, though but for a 
 short time, was the factious spirit of one section, that on his 
 declining to join the Orange party, he was stigmatised as a 
 disloyal subject and a Papist in disguise. This droll and 
 harlequin guise was, however, too grotesque for any one 
 to wear long, and a more generous and manly temper 
 gained ground, and enabled the people to divest their pas- 
 tor of the motley dress in which their fancies had clothed 
 him. 
 
 " Many Dissenters joined us ; the Church people attended 
 more closely to their public and private duties ; and, with two 
 or three exceptions, the community, including some who had 
 been most fierce in their opposition, united in a grateful and 
 affectionate address to their pastor, expressing their heartfelt 
 confidence, and proving it by a munificent testimonial. 
 
 " Without the moral support of some right-minded people, 
 it is probable that at first, until matters took a favourable 
 turn, the clergyman would have failed or fainted in his 
 work. To mention these now might be invidious to others : 
 but they are reaping the reward of their own consciences ; 
 and this tribute of gratitude from their old pastor will 
 scarcely be altogether unacceptable. 
 
 "Your brother was one of those early and hearty sup- 
 
THE SETTLER. 71 
 
 porters : the respect in which he was generally held, together 
 with his reputation for force of character and practical and 
 successful farming, rendered his moral support of great value 
 to his minister. 
 
 - " Such, then, were the circumstances which surrounded your 
 brother's life at that period, and amidst which he gradually 
 formed a resolve that affected his subsequent career. 
 
 "He fulfilled his promise of communicating freely with 
 me respecting his own religious feelings. He told me much 
 of his past history, some of which you will doubtless intro- 
 duce in his memoirs, and some of which was too intimate 
 and personal for me to disclose. It is sufficient for me to 
 say that he made no secret of former errors, such as few 
 young men arrive at manhood without having occasion to 
 lament, and which, although condemned by the law of Christ, 
 are generally deemed venial by society, and were in your 
 brother's case certainly not deviations from what is usually 
 considered to be the law of honour. He told me, further, 
 that his mother had always designed him for the Church, 
 but that as his inclinations had not been in that direction, he 
 had chosen the life of a colonist, in which by the generous 
 aid of his uncle he had so far succeeded He said that even 
 in his gayest days, and while exposed to the irregularity and 
 occasional licentiousness of military service, he had con- 
 stantly serious and deep impressions of religion ; that at one 
 time those ^convictions had so strongly worked upon his soul 
 as to induce him to come to the holy communion ; but that 
 afterwards temptation and sin had drawn him back to the 
 world, and the remembrance of that weakness now haunted 
 him with a dread of exposing himself to a second departure 
 
72 THE SETTLER. 
 
 from God, should he again openly declare himself a servant 
 of Christ. 
 
 "It was impossible not to admire and sympathise with 
 this manly avowal of what is a very common case. I spoke 
 to him in substance as follows : ' Your conscience is op- 
 pressed with sin, and the removal of this remorse must be 
 your first care and duty ; and when that removal is felt, it 
 will next behove you to confess Christ at the holy com- 
 munion. Such is the direction of the Church " It is re- 
 quisite that no man should come to the holy communion but 
 with a full trust in God's mercy, and a quiet conscience." ' 
 
 " We then spoke together of the manner in which the con- 
 science may be relieved from remorse. As there is only 
 one true way of finding that relief, I told him that he must 
 believe in the forgiveness of sins through God's mercy in 
 Christ ; and in the strength of that belief, address himself 
 to Christ, and fully confessing all his guilt, labour to throw 
 it on his Saviour ; and so do the work of faith and prayer 
 until Christ should set him free. 
 
 " We had many conversations after this, and generally on 
 the same subject. 
 
 "It is easy for us to explain the way of eternal life 
 through faith in Christ, and to give advice to others ; but the 
 compliance of the heart with the gospel is no child's play. 
 In some strong natures, and in minds of a speculative and 
 proud temperament, there are many obstacles, self-raised, 
 against believing in Jesus. Your brother was of this class. 
 I have seldom seen in a man of such delicacy of sentiment 
 and tenderness of feeling, so large a measure of stout and 
 resolute self-will ; seldom, in one who had such a humble 
 
THE SETTLER 73 
 
 opinion of his own merits and powers, so much intellectual 
 height of speculation. He had to pass through a long and 
 painful struggle with himself. I remember once, while 
 riding over the dam which connects Dunnville with Holdi- 
 mand and constrains the broad river to throw the principal 
 part of its stream into the feeder of the Welland Canal, I 
 met him walking towards the town. The deep dejection of 
 his countenance almost alarmed me. I asked him why he 
 looked so miserable. He replied, that he felt miserable, and 
 that while walking through the bush he had been tempted 
 to desire earnestly for annihilation that he looked back 
 into the past with hopelessness, and into the future with 
 despair. I cheered him up, reasoned with him, and even 
 laughed at him for his folly in despairing of the love and 
 forgiveness of God ; and on seeing his honest face brighten 
 with half a smile, I rode on, leaving him to better thoughts/' 
 
 A brief extract from his own diary will be interesting 
 here, as affording his view of his own experience at this 
 time : 
 
 " I felt doubtful, dark, and unhappy, was burdened with 
 the conviction of sin, and saw how justly I merited eternal 
 punishment. So great was my pride and obduracy of heart, 
 (God gave me grace to see it,) that I wondered how I was 
 suffered to exist. My reason was convinced of the necessity 
 of a Saviour, but pride and the world prevented my receiving 
 Him. I felt I could not give up all for Christ. I wanted 
 to serve Him and Mammon. I had almost repined at the 
 appointed way of salvation how gloomy my reflections 
 
74 THE SETTLER. 
 
 but God in His mercy inclined me to pray. I fervently 
 begged for light, that the Holy Spirit would guide me into 
 truth, and shew me all my sins. I certainly was greatly aided 
 in attaining a desirable state of humility by recalling as 
 much as possible when engaged in prayer the most promi- 
 nent sins of my former life. Oh, what a mass of iniquity ! 
 not only duties omitted and opportunities neglected, but sins 
 committed, shameful to remember, proceeding out of, and 
 clearly evincing the depravity of my nature. Impious pride, 
 unbelief, and thoughtlessness, all live in the inward man ; but, 
 thank God, I trust I do desire that which is good." 
 
 But we turn from this sorrowful tale of conflict to Mr 
 Gribble's history of a sunnier time : 
 
 " At length his day of freedom came. 
 
 " I am writing to you from recollection, as my journals 
 are in England, but it is a recollection as vivid as if the 
 events had happened yesterday. On a Sunday in March 
 1842, your brother and Louisa had walked as usual to the 
 Lake Shore church a beautiful little temple raised on a 
 tree-covered bank about sixty feet above the lake. Winter 
 had not yet given way to spring, but occasional fine days 
 had begun to loosen its hold upon the frozen lake and hard 
 ground ; the sleighing still continued, and the bells of the 
 horses, by their merry sound in the clear air, almost com- 
 pensated for the absence of the more sonorous peal which 
 summons our English villagers to the house of God. 
 
 " The prayers were read, and the sermon, previous to the 
 communion, was preached ; the subject was Abraham offer- 
 
THE SETTLER. 73 
 
 ing up Isaac, and it was moulded into an application having 
 reference to the sacrament. 
 
 " The surrender which the patriarch made both of his will 
 and affections, was presented as an example for all Christians 
 to follow ; and it was enforced that, although such a peculiar 
 sacrifice as that of Abraham's son was exceptional, and 
 probably so for its typical reference to the offering up of 
 Christ, yet, that every Christian must make a surrender of 
 his heart and will to God, and that, too, without parleying 
 or questioning. 
 
 " The sermon being ended, some of the congregation left 
 the church, others remained, and among them, for the first 
 time since I had known him, was your brother. 
 
 " Louisa had arranged to stay out the day with, and sleep 
 at, the Farrells'. John left the church, when the service was 
 over, and went straight home without speaking to me or to 
 any one. 
 
 " A few days after this, we met at his house on my usual 
 monthly tour. And when we were alone, he told me with a 
 bright cheerful smile, that he felt himself another man. He 
 related that, during the sermon on the previous Sunday, he 
 had encountered a fearful struggle with himself, and that 
 he was then conscious of the crisis having come when he 
 must decide for ever whether thenceforward his whole pur- 
 pose and will should be given, without reserve, to God and 
 His service. . . . That his resolution had been taken once and 
 for all, and that immediately on his coming to that deter- 
 mination, peace filled his soul ; the world seemed nothing, and 
 therefore as a seal to his purpose of dedication to God, he 
 went forward to the communion of Christ's body and blood. 
 
76 THE SETTLER. 
 
 " Then, but with some diffidence, as if he almost doubted 
 the reality of what he was about to relate, or as if he thought 
 I should question the soundness of his intellect, yet with 
 increasing earnestness as he proceeded with his story, he told 
 me that on the same Sunday evening, while sitting alone in 
 his cottage, and thinking on the events of the day, an in- 
 describable sweetness stole over his whole frame, as, with 
 feelings of awe and delight, he seemed to feel the Saviour 
 near him. He said that the presence, or whatever it was, 
 remained a short time and then withdrew, leaving him deeply 
 affected with gratitude and love to God/' 
 
 His own account of this solemn experience given in his 
 diary, ought not to be omitted. It is significant in the ex- 
 treme to mark the guarded terms in which he wrote of it, 
 and his jealous avoidance in the brief entry that records it 
 of anything like inflated or hyperbolical language : 
 
 "I experienced such an ecstasy last evening in prayer, 
 that I doubted if I were in my right senses. Christ was 
 slain for me. I could give myself up to Him unreservedly. 
 I cannot describe my sensations of joy. I could not praise 
 God sufficiently for the great scheme of salvation. I re- 
 mained a long time giving thanks, and praying that such a 
 heavenly view might not be taken from me." 
 
 But to return to Mr Gribble : 
 
 " I am conscious that this recital may seem to many per- 
 sons beyond the limits even of excited enthusiasm. And 
 perhaps it may be deemed unfair in his friend to publish 
 
THE SETTLER. 77 
 
 what might cast a reflection on the judgment of Mr Bowen. 
 That I cannot help. This I know, that a plain-spoken, honest 
 gentleman, whose power of mind was very considerable, and 
 scarcely at all (as his journals all prove) given to imagina- 
 tive flights, did relate to me, almost as calmly as I write it 
 down, the history I have given. I know that the events of 
 that day and evening decided his whole after-life ; that he 
 never obtruded the subject on any one, and that he never 
 swerved from the same account ; that in a letter written 
 some years afterwards, in reply to my questioning him again 
 on the subject for the greater certainty of my own recollec- 
 tions, he alluded to the vision as a fact still present in his 
 memory ; and I find in one of his communications, written 
 long after the event, the following statement, which proves 
 how indelibly his conversion, with the features which so 
 strongly marked it, had fixed themselves in his thoughts : 
 
 " ' You ask/ he says, ' for the day of my birth. I was born 
 into this world, November 21, 1815 ; for this I would say, 
 " For as in Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made 
 alive," (1 Cor. xv. 22.) I believe the new birth took place in 
 me, March 6, 1842. " One thing have I desired of the Lord, 
 that will I seek after ; that I may dwell in the house of the 
 Lord all the days of my life, to behold the beauty of the 
 Lord, and to inquire in his temple/' (Ps. xxvii. 4.) ' 
 
 " The last quotation, which refers so directly to God's 
 house and to the personal glory of the Lord, is most appro- 
 priate to the recollection, still fresh in his mind, of that which 
 he had felt while in the house of God, of what he had seen 
 of his Saviour's majesty, and of his own determination, con- 
 sequent upon that, to devote himself for ever to the service 
 of Christ." 
 
78 THE SETTLER 
 
 It would appear, from a letter addressed to Mr Gribble, 
 from Trinity College, in the month of October 1845, that 
 Mr Bowen had had an anxious and earnest conversation 
 with Mr Krause of Dublin, on the subject of ' realising the 
 presence of Christ.' 
 
 The origin of the discussion was, of course, his own 
 experience of the 6th of March ; the subject, the nature of 
 the manifestations referred to. Mr Krause questioned any 
 other than such as come through the word. Mr Bowen con- 
 tended that there might be a perception of the actual pre- 
 sence of Christ apart from the word. 
 
 If for no other reason, <at all events on this ground, the 
 conversation is interesting, as shewing the earnest conviction 
 entertained by the young convert of the truth and reality of 
 the vision he described, and the distinctness with which he 
 associated his new birth and this memorable occurrence. 
 Further than this we need not pursue the subject. 
 
 To theorise on the soul's experience of a sister or a brother 
 in Christ, to lay down general rules, and reduce each spiritual 
 history to their level, is neither reverent nor wise. Such 
 deep influences and rich seasons of felicity have no witness 
 from the outside world. Joseph is alone when he makes 
 himself known to his brethren. The veil hangs down ; we 
 would not disturb it. Better far, and wiser, to leave to its 
 mystery and silence that holy ground, on which to tread with 
 unbidden feet were sacrilege indeed. 
 
 But let us return to Mr Gribble's narrative, resumed from 
 the period of his conversation with his friend in reference to 
 the solemn incident just referred to : 
 
 " After the occurrence which occupied so large a part of 
 
THE SETTLER. 79 
 
 my last letter, your brother was in every respect the same 
 energetic man as before. His good sense saved him from 
 any affectation of peculiar manner or phraseology. He 
 worked as usual at his farm. He took great pains to im- 
 prove himself in the knowledge of Holy Scripture, and often 
 joined in such meetings as we could arrange together with 
 some dear companions, who were equally bent on self-im- 
 provement. As a farmer and a hearty friend, he was no less 
 diligent and jovial. 
 
 " But it was intended that he should exchange the farm 
 for a higher and more sacred culture. After some months, 
 he told me that he longed now to fulfil his mother's earnest 
 desire, and, if the way should open, to leave his farm and pre- 
 pare for the ministry. I advised him to ponder the matter 
 well, and by prudent delay to test his own stability, and to 
 watch the arrangements and openings of Providence. We 
 often talked together of the great advantage occurring to 
 religion from the laity being God-fearing men ; and that, if 
 it were God's will that he should become a clergyman, the 
 course of events would eventually indicate the Divine pur- 
 pose. 
 
 "He held his wishes in abeyance, and continued in his 
 active labours. 
 
 "While cherishing the hope that his desire might be 
 accomplished, an unexpected obstacle arose. His uncle, who 
 had observed and admired his progress as a settler, wrote to 
 tell him that he had transmitted 200 to enable him to buy 
 more land and improve his stock. John deeply felt this 
 generous conduct ; at any other time such news would have 
 been most welcome." 
 
80 THE SETTLER. 
 
 His allusion in his diary to these circumstances, shews the 
 great perplexity of his mind at this time : 
 
 " My uncle has promised to advance me 200 to buy more 
 land. Previously, I was thinking of turning to the Church, 
 were I enabled to sell my farm. Am I called and qualified 
 to preach the gospel ? I love (I believe and hope I may say 
 so) God and Christ ; I long for the salvation of all men. On 
 the other hand, I am in some respects fitted for my present 
 position, and a vast field of usefulness is open to a layman 
 who would properly use the means in his power. Still, our 
 hands appear to be tied by false shame ; a dread of the use- 
 lessness of any attempt to call men's attention to their most 
 important interest embarrasses us. I believe much of this 
 arises from our conscience telling us that our walk is not con- 
 sistent. We do not lean enough on Christ to guide us through 
 the world, and teach us how to use it so as not to abuse it. 
 
 "June 6th. I have felt rather low-spirited lately, and 
 have been sadly perplexed as to my proper course of duty, 
 hesitating between the Church and Canada." 
 
 "But in his actual uncertainty as to the future," continues 
 Mr Gribble, "he considered that it would be unjustifiable for 
 him to appropriate his uncle's gift. He wrote, therefore, in 
 reply, that a great change had come over him, and that it 
 was his wish to sell his farm, and seek ordination ; that, 
 deeply as he felt his uncle's kindness, he could not, in honour, 
 avail himself of the munificent present. 
 
 " Let any one who knows human nature imagine the per- 
 plexity of a young man placed in such a vortex of conflicting 
 
THE SETTLER. 81 
 
 thoughts and plans. On the one hand, worldly success, a 
 creditable position, and improving prospects; and on the 
 other, the breaking up of present engagements, the displea- 
 sure of his powerful and kind relation, the censure of his 
 friends around, the inevitable derision of those who would 
 judge him by themselves, and the prospective mental toil and 
 hard study requisite to fit him for the ministry. What could 
 sustain a man at such a juncture of good fortune if taken at 
 the flood, and of apparent evil fortune should the auspices be 
 disregarded. It may be said, ' It was all chance, he did a 
 wild deed in giving up a certainty for an uncertainty; 
 luckily it turned out well, and he arrived at fortune and 
 distinction by another, though most unlikely, road/ But 
 there was nothing of hap-hazard in the alteration of his 
 plans ; he found support in the hidden and deep conviction 
 that his call to duty and future action, in some other but 
 unknown sphere, had come from a voice which he dared not 
 disobey, and which he was willing to follow. The sequel of 
 his history must shew whether he made a great mistake, or 
 interpreted aright the summons he believed himself to have 
 received. 
 
 " In writing to his uncle he took the first decisive step. 
 But there were many counter-arguments yet to be examined 
 before he could venture on the second. He was in the 
 centre of a useful and honourable sphere. He had property ; 
 was he rashly to abandon it ? In due time these objections 
 were defeated. But, in the meanwhile, the summer came, 
 and brought with it a succession of duties which allowed of 
 no interval of repose. He laboured on at his farm, and left 
 
 the future with God." 
 
 F 
 
82 THE SETTLER. 
 
 Of the reception which that letter encountered, Mr Gribble 
 is, of course, unable to speak. We would add, however, that 
 it excited, as may be supposed, the sternest disapproval of his 
 conduct. His uncle had condemned his emigration when it 
 was first resolved upon ; had afterwards withdrawn his cen- 
 sure of the scheme as he saw how well adapted the young 
 adventurer was to his hardy work. At length, after witness- 
 ing for some time his prosperous career, he had advanced from 
 displeasure to positive sympathy. Hence the refusal of his 
 bounty dictated, so he argued, by the resolve to carry out a 
 wild scheme of visionary fanaticism discovered his nephew, 
 in his eyes, as utterly devoid of judgment and common 
 sense. 
 
 But again we avail ourselves of Mr Gribble's history : 
 
 " It happened that a gentleman had recently emigrated to 
 Canada, and, after visiting several parts of the colony, had 
 come to the Lake Shore. He was pleased with the appearance 
 of the settlement, and inquired if there was any farm for 
 sale. It was, of course, known among his friends that Bowen 
 was prepared to sell ; and as his farm was in a thriving state, 
 an offer was made by the stranger, and after a little negotia- 
 tion, the bargain was concluded. 
 
 "Your brother made his arrangements for returning to 
 England, and then all that remained was to take leave of 
 friends, to many of whom he was to bid farewell for that 
 short space between this world and the next, which we com- 
 monly pronounce to be ' for ever.' 
 
 " Those friends deserve a passing notice. There were his 
 
THE SETTLER. 83 
 
 near neighbours, the Blotts and McGregors poor Alick 
 M'Gregor destined to meet death afterwards in a campaign 
 with the Americans in the South-western States. 
 
 " The Farrells and Captain and Mrs Dobbs, his relatives by 
 marriage, were his intimates ; kind, noble-hearted souls, full 
 of love for the man, and of hope for his future success. 
 Others, such as Lettesman, who afterwards died a true be- 
 liever in Jesus; the M'Murdos, the Hoggans, with many 
 more. The separation was keenly felt, and his departure 
 deeply regretted ; perhaps, too, in some quarters his project 
 was affectionately blamed. 
 
 " But there were some of whom I have as yet said nothing, 
 whose histories deserve a place with his own. 
 
 " A few miles from John's cottage lived a young man 
 named Wood, the son, I think, of a clergyman in Wales. 
 Your brother and he had been acquainted . in the mother- 
 country, and since their immigration to Canada they had 
 often met as ordinary acquaintances. Before John decided 
 on a Christian course of life, Wood had accepted the gospel 
 with a readiness and singleness of purpose which presented 
 a striking contrast to your brother's more gradual advance 
 towards self-surrender to God. 
 
 " Mr Wood, as soon as he heard the word bowed to its 
 commands. Immediately he gave himself to Christ; and 
 he and his household commenced daily prayer. He worked 
 at his farm in the day time, and in the evening he studied 
 the Scriptures and such books as might help him onwards. 
 When he had gained stability and experience, he became a 
 missionary to his neighbours ; eventually he was appointed 
 
84 THE SETTLER 
 
 a catechist under the Colonial and Continental Church 
 Society, and rendered me very valuable assistance. His 
 history proves the importance of patience and forbearance. 
 
 " The worthy Bishop was at that time indisposed to counte- 
 nance that society, because a strong prejudice was entertained 
 against what were absurdly called its Low Church principles ; 
 and he endeavoured to hinder Wood's appointment. The 
 society, however, stood firm. In a little time the difficulty 
 passed away ; and now, if I am rightly informed, the Bishop is 
 too glad to receive as many clergyman as they may be able 
 to supply. 
 
 " That young man loved Christ and his fellow-men ; he was 
 content to fill a humble sphere, and he still remains a good 
 Churchman, and, what is more important, a devoted servant 
 of his Lord and Master. When your brother yielded to the 
 gospel, the two became warm friends, and this was one of 
 the intimacies sacrificed at his departure. 
 
 " About a mile from John's house a small rivulet meandered 
 among gentle slopes to the lake. On a low eminence, screened 
 from the lake by a belt of trees, stood a pretty cottage of 
 one story high. The inmates of that quiet dwelling were 
 Mark Kichard and Harriet Jukes, and their two young 
 children. 
 
 " Their history has been recently given to the world under 
 the title of the ' Earnest Christian,' but I must present to 
 you, as an episode, a brief notice of that admirable couple. 
 Mark was the son of a distinguished and accomplished 
 physician, who had accompanied Sir James M'Tulloch to 
 Bombay, where he died. Shortly before we left England, 
 Mark, whose mother and stepfather were then in that 
 
THE SETTLEE. 85 
 
 country, became attached to Miss Hole, the daughter of an 
 officer in her Majesty's service. They wished me, as their 
 future pastor, to marry them before our departure for Canada. 
 The ceremony was performed, with the permission of my 
 dear friend the Rev. Durand Baker, in one of the prettiest 
 village churches in England, that of Bishop Pawton, near 
 Barnstaple, in North Devon. After the wedding, the goodly 
 custom was observed of administering the holy communion 
 to the bridal party. 
 
 " We crossed the Atlantic in the same ship. Your sister 
 
 L was a fellow-passenger. Mrs Jukes was already an 
 
 advanced Christian. Her mind was of a superior order ; her 
 depth of religious feeling, her affectionate spirit, and her 
 exemplary conduct, as a young and lovely woman in the rela- 
 tion of a wife, and afterwards of a mother, were beyond all 
 praise. Her husband was clever and accomplished, and the 
 example and influence of his young wife deepened the re- 
 ligious principles he had before acquired ; and he advanced 
 in the truth of the gospel, and carried out its precepts with 
 much intelligence and consistency. 
 
 "With this charming couple your brother, L , my 
 
 wife, and I, had frequent and delightful intercourse ; not the 
 less agreeable because relieved of much of the formality and 
 conventionalism of the dear ' old country.' 
 
 "Their subsequent history is known to many who will 
 read this narrative. About seven years after your brother 
 left Canada, Mr Jukes applied to the Bishop of his diocese 
 for ordination. Theological differences of opinion proved un- 
 favourable to his wishes in this quarter. Subsequently, he 
 applied to the Scottish Presbytery, and for a similar reason 
 
86 THE SETTLEE. 
 
 was unsuccessful. At last, he sailed with his family for the 
 United States, and, as an American clergyman, lived and 
 laboured with all the intensity of devotion. Mrs Jukes was 
 then in her proper element. A very few weeks were allowed 
 them for a short but bright career. The cholera visited their 
 parish, and attacked the husband; he sank under it; the 
 devoted wife caught it immediately afterwards, and thus 
 they were taken within a few hours of each other. Bishop 
 M'llvaine considered their faithful labours and early removal 
 so remarkable, that he addressed his clergy on the subject, 
 and held up their lives as an example for all to follow. 
 
 " I resume the line of my narrative with the observation 
 that these were among the friends whom your brother left 
 behind. When the morning of our separation arrived, my 
 
 wife and I accompanied John and L to Dunnville, where 
 
 they were to take the canal boat for St Catherine's. There 
 was another friend, poor John Lockhart, once a young officer 
 under my command in the H.E.I.O. Service, subsequently a 
 settler in the district where Providence called me to minister. 
 He has long since been numbered with the dead in Mexico." 
 
 His diary at this time was chiefly occupied with his in- 
 ward controversy on the question of his leaving his farm and 
 taking orders. So great was his anxiety, that it told effec- 
 tually on his health and spirits, and the period of this pain- 
 ful indecision was perhaps one of the saddest and most 
 trying of his life. He returned to England heavy and de- 
 pressed. 
 
 "I find that I am very kindly welcomed at home, but 
 
THE SETTLER. 87 
 
 treated coldly by those around me esteemed perhaps as a 
 visionary, or even as a fool" 
 
 His uncle's reception of him may easily be divined. Even 
 his mother, so near the realisation of her earliest longing, 
 betrayed her discontent at the inexpediency of the season 
 and crisis at which the decision had been adopted. The 
 encouragements to the relinquishing of his purpose were 
 many and varied. Still full of strength and purpose, he 
 held on undaunted, though the clouds were threatening and 
 the opposition strong. 
 
 So painful was the conflict that arose in his mind during 
 the latter part of his stay in Canada, that his diary reveals 
 an almost incessant state of perplexity and unrest. 
 
 Doubtless he yielded to the temptation to a tedious and 
 unprofitable scrutiny of self. Peter's error of looking at 
 the waves besets many a child of faith at the outset of his 
 struggle ; and a confused idea in reference to the change of 
 heart embarrasses his progress. The heavenly joy that 
 succeeds his first belief, the summer days of his earliest 
 love, tend to betray him into the idea that his battle is over 
 before it has commenced. With the return of the inward 
 enemy baffled, overshadowed, and stunned for a time 
 comes his real day of trouble and rebuke. In a measure 
 unprepared for the attack, he is dismayed at its bitterness 
 and there have been instances of victory for a time on the 
 side of the evil one. It is impossible to exaggerate the im- 
 portance of clear views on the subject of the two natures. 
 The inward work consists in no piecemeal removal of the 
 one, and the similar piecemeal substitution of the other as 
 
88 THE SETTLER. 
 
 when a new building is gradually erected on the ruins of 
 the old ; but rather in the implanting of a new nature, to be, 
 till the end, the uncompromising foe of that which once 
 held inward sway. To weaken this, in the heat of perpetual 
 conflict, to surprise it, to disarm it, to exhaust it by the 
 fierceness of struggle and loss of blood, is the province of 
 the other. Enemies they remain to the end. Confronted 
 foemen they fight it out. The presence of the enemy may 
 as well be admitted as a necessity. So long as it is regarded 
 in this light, and the eye is upwards, the fight is being 
 rightly fought, and the issue is in the hands of Jesus. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 " Bright be my prospects as I pass along ; 
 An ardent service at the cost of all 
 Love by untiring ministry made strong, 
 And ready for the first, the softest call. 
 
 " Yes ! God is faithful and my lot is cast, 
 Oh, not myself to serve, my own to be ! 
 Light of my life ! the darkness now is past, 
 And I beneath the Cross can work for Thee I 
 
 " True wisdom comes by thought, and how can that thought profit in 
 which there is no discernment of God ? It is not from a wide range of 
 literature, nor from protracting the vigils of study till the stars grow pale, 
 that wisdom can be gained ; it is not the power of reasoning, nor of adorn- 
 ing old thoughts by new beauties of speech. It begins with the fear of the 
 Lord. If the revelation of God is true if the work of Christ is real, all 
 my other knowledge should be adjusted and subordinated to this. I will 
 take the ripest clusters of every vintage to cast them into the winepress 
 which He trod." Thompson's Bampton Lectures. 
 
SUCH was the spirit in which Mr Bowen entered on his 
 university career. His outward life was to undergo an 
 entire change. The bustling settler was to become the stu- 
 dious recluse, till the activities of ministerial work should 
 summon him from his contemplative retirement. 
 
 And here let us recur again to Mr Gribble's interesting 
 narrative : 
 
 "On his arrival in England, John entered himself at 
 Trinity College, Dublin. Your dear father died soon after ; 
 and as the settlement of his extensive business demanded the 
 close attention of a practical man, your brother was obliged 
 to suspend his studies until he had arranged his father's 
 affairs. I returned to England in the following spring. 
 
 " We often exchanged letters ; our correspondence had re- 
 ference principally to those topics which were then of par- 
 ticular interest to ourselves/' 
 
 Mr Gribble's narrative, and previous allusions in the course 
 of the intervening history, have already informed the reader 
 of the final selection by Mr Bowen of Trinity College, Dublin, 
 as his place of preparation for the ministerial office. 
 
92 THE STUDENT. 
 
 His career as a student forms a distinct interval in his life 
 At this time, and under these circumstances, the busy hum 
 of his existence was suspended, and he was called aside from 
 the turmoil and din of his past experience, to the tranquillity 
 of seclusion and study. He speaks of his employment as a 
 luxury, and contrasts at leisure the refined retirements of the 
 academic cloister with the wild savageness of the Canadian 
 forests. 
 
 Certainly the under-graduate surplice, gown, and cap were 
 a singular substitute for the attire of the backwoodsman; 
 the MS. or classic, for the axe ; and the dreamy beauties of 
 sculptured pediment and clustering columns, resurrections of 
 the glory of Greece, for the rough uncultured freedom of his 
 far Western home. 
 
 We can hardly turn to his college diary, without anticipat- 
 ing a few of its entries, and explaining them by a reference 
 to his mental and spiritual depression at this time. 
 
 This though a pleasant and congenial, was far from being 
 a thoroughly happy period of his life. For some time the 
 cloud had gathered over him, veiling the serenity and cheer- 
 ful joyousness which ha'd hitherto been his peculiar character- 
 istics, and disposing him to the anxious and unrestful spirit 
 of one wholly resolved to serve, but unable to ascertain the 
 service. 
 
 So we find him disturbed by incidents of trifling moment, 
 harassed by doubts, and pained by perplexities. The choral 
 music of his chapel disquieted him at one time the wondrous 
 anthem that 
 
 " Fills the soul with, strange emotion, 
 As its tone by turns are glad, 
 Sweetly solemn, wildly sad; " 
 
THE STUDENT. 93 
 
 at another, the attire, the procession, the ceremonial. Yet 
 who that reads it will read to scoff at this tender sensitive- 
 ness ? We may call it excessive, if we will, and urge that the 
 freedom of our faith and trust in no way requires it ; yet 
 may we well pause ere we go on to condemn it, or him for 
 exhibiting it. For was it not, after all, the offspring of a 
 vigorous longing to walk in all things worthy of his high 
 vocation ? 
 
 The diary commences just before he went into residence 
 at Dublin : 
 
 " Johnston, November 27th. I have left my farm and am 
 come home to prepare myself for preaching the gospel by 
 going through the prescribed course of study. My business 
 now is to investigate truth. May I be guided by the Spirit of 
 truth, whose assistance at this time is particularly necessary, 
 when the Church of Christ, at least the visible Church, is torn 
 by so many conflicting opinions ! I have been in some doubt 
 as to which college I ought to choose, Lampeter or Dublin. I 
 have prayed for direction ; may I do so more fervently. The 
 scale now seems to incline to Dublin. My wish is to do that 
 which will render me most useful to immortal souls. I find 
 vanity a great sin. Lord, help me to overcome it ! What hast 
 thou, poor grovelling, worldly, cowardly, faithless one, that 
 thou didst not receive ? 
 
 "December 20th. I think it may be desirable to read 
 more particularly some portion of Scripture, and mark some 
 things that may be learnt from it. My ordinary reading is 
 the Psalms, Lessons for the Day in the Old Testament, with 
 three chapters in the Greek Testament." 
 
94 THE STUDENT. 
 
 This plan was continued for some years, and his remarks 
 on Scripture are regularly entered in his diary. We have 
 chosen such examples as will suffice to shew the profitable 
 and practical manner in which he carried out his design : 
 
 " December 22d The Holy Spirit. When we reflect that 
 the Holy Spirit of God immediately acts' on our minds, we 
 should consider what manner of persons we ought to be, to 
 whom such an inestimable privilege is granted. Our own 
 unworthiness is almost necessary to keep us humble under 
 so great an honour. How anxious we should be to obey His 
 godly motions ! how careful not to mistake them ! The more , 
 invaluable His guidance, the greater danger arises from our 
 confounding the suggestions of Satan or of the flesh with 
 His precious influences. 
 
 "December 23d Jeremiah xxxi. The prophet describ- 
 ing the destruction of Babylon, (perhaps mystically the pride 
 and sin of the human heart,) asserts that Israel, the people 
 of God, had not been forsaken of Him, though His face had 
 been hid while sin reigned triumphant in the land. Is it 
 altogether improper to deduce as a lesson from this, that the 
 people of God, i.e., those who compose the mystical Church 
 of Christ, being before their conversion given up to sin, 
 under the dominion of Babylon, are still the objects of God's 
 compassion and mercy ? and is it unlawful to suppose that 
 during this period they are, in some degree, the subject of 
 the divine influences of the Spirit ? 
 
 " Matthew xviii. Great are the blessings promised to such 
 as receive the gospel in a child-like spirit. St Peter says, c as 
 new-born babes ;' not mixed up with worldly pomps, pride, 
 
THE STUDENT. 95 
 
 or vanity. To receive the truths of the gospel, we must have 
 our minds freed from worldly wisdom ; ours must be an in- 
 fant's taste, craving the simple and genuine ; our minds must 
 be cleared of preconceived ideas ; there must be nothing to 
 impede the free entrance of truth. 
 
 "December 24^. Let me endeavour to collect my thoughts 
 in some useful meditation, having first confessed my sins to 
 God, and asked His blessing. Christmas Eve ; to-morrow, 
 the Nativity and Sacrament. The birth of Christ to the 
 world is what the manifestation of Himself is to the soul of 
 the individual believer, and ought to be indeed an occasion 
 of great rejoicing. None can truly join in that heartfelt 
 exultation but those who feel that they have a particular 
 as well as a general interest in the Saviour. Probably the 
 Koman, or perhaps more properly the worldly Church, 
 feeling that all ought to rejoice at the birth of Christ, 
 sought to supply the place of that calm transport that 
 fills the Christian when contemplating the commencing 
 work of redemption, by merriment, games, amusements, and 
 good living. Poor substitute ! But why should we rejoice ? 
 Because we were lost, dying sinners, justly doomed to ever- 
 lasting wrath, and He came to seek us, and to die to save us. 
 Here, then, is joy ; and if we do not rejoice, it is to be feared 
 that we have not yet believed that He died for us. The way 
 does not yet appear plain to me ; there does not seem much 
 opportunity of doing good ; but I am not as zealous for the 
 Word as I ought to be ; my coldness and backwardness are 
 equally reprehensible. God help me, and enable me to pray 
 with sincerity and faith ! 
 
 11 December 2oth. How cold, how lifeless, how thankless 
 
96 THE STUDENT. 
 
 I am compared with what I ought to be ! and yet, thank God, 
 there is some joy in Christ, some longing after His righteous- 
 ness, some loathing of odious self. We dined to-day ten 
 children a happy and united family, and not without hope 
 that God's grace is working in many, if not all of our hearts. 
 Oh, may it be in all ; may not one be wanting when the final 
 ordeal shall be past ! Two were absent ; may Christ mani- 
 fest Himself to them. I feel greatly inclined to make it a 
 matter of prayer that the whole family may be permitted to 
 meet under the paternal roof before death makes another 
 breach in the circle, but particularly both our beloved parents, 
 and may they be long spared to us. God's will be done. I 
 would rather pray that all may meet before the Throne. I 
 feel much inclined to try my hand at a sermon. Learn thy- 
 self, before thou teachest others. 
 
 " 26^, (St Stephen Martyr.) Gospel of St Matthew xxiii. 
 34. Reflection We, when in an unconverted state, like the 
 Jews, reject those sent to us, nor will we receive the testimony 
 of God's ambassadors, nor even the witness He bears of 
 Himself. We refuse the invitation, so that to us applies our 
 Lord's lamentation, ' Jerusalem, Jerusalem !' we will not. 
 What blessings, what comforts we lose ! Look at the chicken ; 
 how safe under its mother's wing ! Might not we be as se- 
 cure, if we would but come to Him? 'Him that cometh 
 unto me, I will in no wise cast out.' 
 
 " 27th. At Milford, Mr . Conversation on Church 
 
 principles. He was very strong against Dissent, glorying in 
 the Church, and taking a high stand. He approves much of 
 missionary bishops ; seemed rather to depreciate the poor 
 working missionary. May God send me the Spirit of truth ! 
 
THE STUDENT. 97 
 
 and if I ask, He will. Let me seek after truth, and discern 
 the leading of the Holy Spirit. The Church of England 
 appears to me to have that system of Church government 
 which more than any other is calculated to produce and 
 foster godliness ; but the perverseness, avarice, and perjury of 
 sinful man have much impaired the utility of her institu- 
 tions, and her real principles have been too much lost sight 
 of. Extempore prayer disapproved of ; this subject I must 
 inquire into. 
 
 " 29^. St Luke v. 8. When Peter saw the power of 
 Christ, he besought Him to depart and leave him. So, 
 commonly, when the mind of the natural man is awakened 
 to see the righteousness and terror of the gospel, (for even 
 those glad tidings have a terror added to them in the hearts 
 of the unbelieving,) he wishes to escape from them. The 
 struggle of overcoming his sins is too much ; he thinks he can 
 never accomplish it, and wishes the Lord to depart and leave 
 him to himself. But Jesus, smiling on the trembling though 
 perhaps backsliding penitent, who as yet sees the power but 
 not the benevolence of the Lord, bids him fear not. This is 
 also applicable to the believer: in whatever station of life 
 God has placed him, he must be willing at the Lord's bid- 
 ding to leave all and follow Him ; and who can say he may 
 not in the most humble sphere be a fisher of men ? 
 
 "'31st. The last day of '42. How many reflections does 
 the departing year call forth ! how many blessings to re- 
 cord, how many sins to deplore ! This year, I may say, has 
 been the most important to me of those that are past and 
 those yet to come. This year it pleased God to manifest 
 Himself to my soul in a wonderful manner, to enable me to 
 
98 THE STUDENT. 
 
 realize an interest in Christ. This year my path through this 
 present world has changed. Leaving the tilling of the soil, 
 I am preparing to enter as an unworthy labourer into the 
 Lord's vineyard. Oh, may God give me strength to go on to 
 the end, to His honour and praise, to the salvation of my 
 own soul, and the helping of the souls of others ! May I be 
 willing to be last of all and servant of all, so that He be 
 glorified and I permitted hereafter to enter into His glory ! 
 
 "January 1st, 1843. There is a great snare even in the 
 simple act of keeping a diary. Oh that I may be enabled 
 to be sincere with myself ! May I be enabled to begin this 
 year with the Lord, and to end it according to His will, if 
 He keeps me in the flesh ! How petulant am I even at a 
 deserved rebuke given in the gentlest way ! and yet I do not 
 fully repent, but make excuses to myself for this sin. To- 
 day, my thoughts have been very wandering, often trifling 
 during Divine service. I am doubtless anxious to teach before 
 I have fully learnt. Oh, may I learn of God when and what 
 to speak ! How deplorably ignorant am I ! yet, thank God, I 
 have knowledge of the way of salvation. Here is the point 
 to begin, the foundation on which to build every truth 
 Christ Jesus, the Way, the Truth, the Life. 
 
 "January 3d. Genesis iii. The fall of man seems to 
 have been occasioned by the desire of gratifying curiosity 
 and ambition, by the acquisition of forbidden knowledge. 
 How much error has arisen from an eager inquiry after 
 those things that God has not revealed! It is perhaps 
 difficult to discern between lawful and unlawful inquiry 
 after truth ; in this, conscience and the Bible must be our 
 guide. 
 
THE STUDENT. 99 
 
 " 6th. Genesis ix. God seems to shew that it is His will 
 to exhibit to man signs and symbols that are visible to the 
 naked eye, so that we are not left wholly to walk by that 
 which is not seen. Our nature requires, as it were, some- 
 thing palpable to the senses ; and though the evil tendency 
 of man perverts and misunderstands the character and 
 purport of these emblems, still are they not the seal to 
 which we may point as the visible sign of the ratification of 
 the covenant between man and his Maker ? Of this kind are 
 the rainbow, circumcision, sacrifices, and even the sacra- 
 ments. 
 
 "7th. Genesis xii. We have here the call, and may 
 observe the blessings promised to the obedience of that 
 call. Here, tofr, it may be permitted us to see how the 
 weakness and fault of a believer lead into sin those who 
 know not God. How often might the sinner be warned of 
 the error of his ways, did we, on all occasions, proclaim 
 without fear the truth as it is in Jesus ! This is a most 
 serious consideration ; may God enable me to apply it to the 
 improvement of my own practice ! How small an excuse 
 contents our consciences, and leads us to let slip the oppor- 
 tunity of perhaps awakening an immortal soul ! God, 
 give me courage to speak Thy truth in love. May I so 
 repent as to have the guilt of "my cowardice, which is 
 unbelief, cleansed by baptism into the blood of Jesus ! 
 
 " Here, too, we may observe how the plagues of God awaken 
 us when we are on the brink of sin ; how those afflictions 
 which are to our faithless feelings most grievous for the 
 time, are perhaps, after all, the great mercies of God, as 
 they were in the instance before us. Abram appears to 
 
100 THE STUDENT. 
 
 have acted on motives of worldly policy, without asking 
 counsel of the Most High. How much pain should we 
 save ourselves had we more faith and confidence in God ! 
 
 " 8th. I intend to go to Dublin next week. The expecta- 
 tion of an examination, change of scene, &c., produce an un- 
 healthy excitement of mind, unfavourable to sober reflection 
 and thought. Oh, may I be earnest in waiting on the Lord, 
 praying for the Spirit of truth to guide me ! How much do 
 I want sobriety and steadiness of mind ! What want there 
 is of humility within me ! what presence of ambitious striv- 
 ing ! God, save me from my sins ! much indeed do I 
 need sanctification. Guide me ever by Thy Spirit, blessed 
 Saviour ! 
 
 "January I5th, (Dublin?) Appeared in College Chapel 
 in cap and surplice. The worship was formal, the singing 
 and chanting glorious, the anthem beautiful, but all painfully 
 marked by the absence of devotion. Ps. Ixxxvi. 6. I fear 
 that the splendid music and singing had a tendency to ob- 
 scure the important and comfortable sentiment of prayer 
 and confidence in the mercy and power of God. Sermon on 
 John vii. 7- Clever and fine language, but to my mind not 
 quite clear; setting forth, however, many important and 
 valuable truths. I understood the preacher to say that the re- 
 ception of the gospel depended upon the natural and moral 
 disposition of the hearers. But is not the haughty sinner at 
 times converted? Who can tell whose heart the Lord may 
 not touch? How God leads us to the reception of the 
 gospel is a mystery that our finite minds cannot fathom; 
 at least, I have not grace enough yet to do so. Oh, may I 
 have that humility, that faith, that love which may form the 
 
THE STUDENT. 101 
 
 moral disposition to receive every truth which it has pleased 
 or may yet please God to reveal to me ! 
 
 "Sunday night. What an awful load of responsibility 
 rests on the ministers of religion ; yet even heavier is theirs 
 whose office it is to train these for their high and holy call- 
 ing ! Oh, may the Spirit be poured out on our colleges ! 
 Three times to church to-day, cold and wandering. Alas ! 
 I see the mote in my brother's eye, but the beam is still in 
 my own. I am very much divided in my mind as to the 
 course I ought to pursue. I sometimes feel inclined to speak 
 out boldly on the abuses of spiritual forms, that deadly apathy 
 that seems hanging over us. But I must wait and pray. 
 Lord, increase my faith ! Holy Spirit of truth, guide and teach 
 me ! The gospel itself is very simple. Whence all this form ? 
 This was not the way of the apostles. But let us look at those 
 who attempt to imitate their primitive simplicity. The 
 Church seems to have wandered from her early simplicity 
 into the obscure path of meretricious observance. Some- 
 times I am inclined to think that on the great points of 
 justification by the Blood, and my own utter sinfulness, my 
 teaching is at an end ; yet the daily recurrence of sinful pas- 
 sions and desires makes the receiving Christ, in all His attri- 
 butes, a daily necessity. Christianity is not a theory or a 
 science ; it is from its very beginning a new state of existence. 
 ' In the beginning was the Word,' is the true history of the 
 dawn of Christian life in its relation to Christ. The ideas I 
 have now on this subject I cannot express. 
 
 "January 22d On coming out of chapel, I went to 
 Trinity Church, (Mr Gregg's.) It was crowded. Here I 
 heard a plain, energetic, practical statement of gospel truth. 
 
102 THE STUDENT. 
 
 I was deeply affected at seeing so large a congregation, and 
 such an immense number of carriages. Surely this is an 
 age when people seek to hear the word: alas that so few 
 preach as if they indeed felt the great truths of which they 
 testify ! To think of the myriads that each Sabbath worship 
 God apparently, and at least put themselves in the way of 
 hearing truth, and to reflect that many of these are indeed 
 seeking the Lord, is gladdening to the Christian's heart. 
 
 " Sabbath-breaking is very bold here : spirit-shops, grocers, 
 fruiterers are open, and the poor creatures calling their 
 oranges in the streets, or at their usual stands. I wish I 
 could do something for them. I trust if God should open 
 a way for me to serve Him here, I may not be backward 
 to walk in it. There is indeed much to do, but I feel the 
 need of some one to direct me. God will no doubt shew me 
 the work appointed for me. May He give me grace to accom- 
 plish it in the strength of the eternal Trinity ! 
 
 " What glory in contemplating eternal association with the 
 spirits of just men made perfect : of Abraham and the holy 
 patriarchs Moses and Israel's leaders of David, the shepherd 
 king and Isaiah, the prophet of hallowed fire of those who 
 have waxed valiant in the heavenly fight all deriving their 
 blessing and purity from the same source ! and -crown 
 of perfect bliss with the Lamb, the Son of man, the Son of 
 God, without a veil between, revealed in His incomprehen- 
 sible attributes, His infinite perfection, and revealing in 
 Himself the eternal Jehovah ! Oh, the depth of His mercy ! 
 Thank God, my heart is softened ; but, alas ! there is yet a 
 stone within. To-day, how incessantly have I been thinking 
 of the faults of others, how inattentive in the house of prayer, 
 
THE STUDENT. 103 
 
 how listless in reading the Word ! I find that even a diligent 
 performance of secular duties (the college course of reading) 
 draws off my vain, worldly mind from spiritual things. 
 
 " 29th, (Sunday.) Lay too long, alas, alas ! Breakfasted 
 
 with D . To College Chapel. Met ; serious young 
 
 man ; went with him to St Patrick's Cathedral. A most 
 splendid choir. The chanting of the Lord's prayer was to 
 me very shocking. How much is there of seeking God with 
 the lips, whilst our hearts are far from Him ! And whilst I 
 am lamenting that they whose voices are so beautifully 
 tuned to sing His praises, are so dead in their hearts, is not 
 my weak, wandering mind flying off at every tangent, rather 
 than with the united energy of intellect and affection, laying 
 before the throne of grace those beautiful and important 
 petitions which are on my lips ? When I say that we read 
 and do not pray, do I even read with attention, or pray with 
 fervour ? Oh, what need of care and struggling, lest I my- 
 self be a castaway ! Nothing but the fulness, freeness, and 
 all-sufficiency of redeeming grace can save me, and that is 
 sufficient. May I so receive Christ, as to take heed how I 
 walk, and to walk by the rule of this faith in Him ! 
 
 "And here let me record another instance of gracious 
 answer to prayer. I made it a matter of supplication that I 
 might meet men of God as associates. I have now in a fort- 
 night made three acquaintances, humanly speaking quite 
 accidentally. All three, I believe, are experiencing the grace 
 of God in their hearts. We went to hear Mr Gregg, and 
 on our return, sang, read, and prayed. How truly delightful 
 is this meeting together in the name of the Lord ! 
 
 . Exodus iv. and v. May not the troubles and 
 
104 THE STUDENT. 
 
 additional burdens with which the children of Israel were 
 afflicted be a type of the struggle which the believer endures 
 when he first endeavours to seek the Lord ? Not only does 
 our present burden of sin press heavily on us, but the ener- 
 getic malice of Satan exposes us to new temptations. Still, 
 praised be God, who giveth us the victory, Afflictions weary 
 out and weaken the opposition of our evil passions : these let 
 us go ; they let us go but soon, like Pharaoh, repent, and 
 pursue us to bring us again into bondage/' 
 
 Two letters, addressed to Mr Gribble the one from Little 
 Haven, the other from Dublin allude to the Mr Wood whose 
 acquaintance and friendship he formed in Canada. They are 
 characteristic, especially the latter of them, as shewing that 
 spirit of genuine self-abasement which reigned within him. 
 
 Mr Gribble introduces them as follows : 
 
 " You will remember my mentioning to you Mr Wood, of 
 Nantuoke, who became a catechist under the Colonial and 
 Continental Church Society. 
 
 " Your brother alludes to him in a note, written at Little 
 Haven, on the 20th of May 1848: ' The place where we 
 are residing is a little village on St Bride's Bay. It is the 
 place where I was acquainted with Wood. He then spent 
 much of his time in boating and rabbit-shooting ; yet his 
 father's house was the first in which I ever saw family prayer 
 in the morning. This circumstance occurred very forcibly to 
 my recollection a few days ago ; and it seems that in his case 
 there is an evident fulfilment of promise/ 
 
 " In another note, written in Dublin, he acknowledges the 
 
THE STUDENT. 105 
 
 receipt of one of Wood's letters, which I had forwarded. On 
 reading his, I am struck with his deep humility. He says 
 ' I was much pleased, as well as humbled, by Wood's letter 
 which you so kindly sent me. He does indeed appear to be 
 zealous, not only in doing his work, but in seeking com- 
 munion with his God. I cannot help feeling how far I am 
 behind him. How much he appears to be doing ! and what 
 have I done ! How does he long after Christ ! how cold 
 and dead am I, in the midst of spiritual advantages, and in 
 a situation where the soul and its state should ever be a 
 primary object ! I could not help contrasting, too, our 
 respective courses since God was pleased to make you the 
 instrument of bringing us both to the knowledge of Jesus. 
 Then our positions were nearly the same, and, I trust, we 
 were both actuated by the same desire to spread our Master's 
 name. He has remained where he was, and is doing more 
 than many clergymen in enduring hardships, privations, and 
 afflictions for the sake of the gospel ; while I, who left my 
 occupation, have found that my profession of Christ, such as 
 it is, has been a source of honour (comparatively speaking) 
 and of luxury for such is study to me. A few days since, 
 when dining at a gentleman's house, with three footmen in 
 the room, poor Wood, toiling through the forests of Walpole, 
 was much upon my mind. I have ventured to keep his letter, 
 as I wished to read parts of it to some college friends, who 
 take an interest in missionary work and the colonies.' " 
 
 This will not be the last reference to his Canadian friend, 
 whose course of love and devotedness has already been 
 alluded to ; but for the present let us resume his diary : 
 
106 THE STUDENT. 
 
 "February 5th, (Sunday!) This week I met with some 
 texts in the course of my reading which brought forcibly to 
 my mind the immense privileges and awful responsibility of 
 the ministerial calling. The faithful minister, having turned 
 to the Lord, shall be as the mouth of God, and speak His 
 words with power. He must teach what is commanded, and 
 so long as he does this his God is with him ; but should he 
 be unfaithful to this command, or fail to attain to the privi- 
 leges of his high calling, how much blood may be required 
 at his hands ! 
 
 " D to tea, to Mr G 's. As I have received Christ 
 
 Jesus, so may I walk. blessed Spirit, do Thou enable me 
 to see the path of Christian duty, and walk therein. I spent 
 
 the evening at 's ; his father was there, an old Christian ; 
 
 pleasing and varied religious conversation on the subject of 
 
 assurance. Mr said, ' Can you be in Christ, and not 
 
 know it V Let me consider the state of my own mind at 
 this moment. I have felt to-day much joy in the Lord. I 
 am lost in wonder at the great scheme of salvation, as it shews 
 itself, and at the collateral truths, as they are developed in 
 reading the Word. Oh, the unspeakable riches of the grace 
 of God ! yet great is the mystery. I cannot doubt of my salva- 
 tion in Christ. In Him I have a claim on the inheritance, and 
 can plead all the promises ; yet there seems to be an anxious 
 feeling under all, a little unbelief, some neglect of watchful- 
 ness. Where have I slept and dropped my roll ? Have I 
 been vain-gloriously displaying it ? 
 
 " This idea deserves attention. May I be led to see the 
 truth in this matter ! All good thoughts proceed from the 
 Holy Spirit. If, then, we feel a prompting to extraordinary 
 
THE STUDENT. 107 
 
 things for the gospel of Christ, do we not err in checking 
 this impulse, under colour of worldly wisdom, since the 
 inclination to speak in mixed society, to a worldly friend, 
 or to sinners in the streets, may be the motion of the Holy 
 Spirit ? 
 
 " 7th. Morning lecture, chapel. I find two natures war- 
 ring within me, one urging me to receive implicitly the 
 promises of God, so that passages read before without even 
 leaving in my mind the impression of an idea, now fill my 
 heart with joy, causing me to cry out ' Thy words are in- 
 deed spirit and life/ 
 
 "The errors and mistakes of devoted Christians affect me 
 painfully. Shall I also believe, and teach nothing but an 
 alloy ? Are we so defiled, that pure, unmixed truth, simple, 
 without a taint of baser metal, is not to be committed to us ? 
 Oh, may I have faith so to ask, that I may receive fully the 
 Spirit of truth, that His blessed influence may occupy all 
 my mind and soul and spirit ; that I may build nothing but 
 gold and precious stones ; that none of my work may perish ! 
 Oh that He may give me faith, so to apprehend Christ as 
 to be purified by His blood from every taint of self, and pre- 
 pared for the safe custody of that precious treasure the 
 truth as it is in Jesus ! I find it difficult to feel and speak 
 in the spirit of love to those who are wilfully going astray. 
 The want of this full charity, our not sufficiently distinguish- 
 ing between the error and the individual, is what leads to 
 persecution, so contrary to the Spirit of Christ. Alas ! I 
 have within myself the seed of this deadly principle. 
 
 "May 6th. During the last two days, I put in my first 
 examination, and my poor, vain heart is too exultant at my 
 
108 THE STUDENT. 
 
 being amongst the list of the recommended. We ought to 
 feel thankful when it pleases God to bless our endeavours ; 
 but we must not take the glory to ourselves. What a use- 
 ful and powerful engine learning has been, and may be, in 
 the hands of God ; but, at the same time, what a snare ! May 
 I be enabled to keep it in its proper place ! I fear my mind 
 runs too much on it. 
 
 " My great temptation now seems to be the desire of dis- 
 tinction and of classical attainments. These are right in 
 their place, but I am inclined to seek them too much for 
 themselves ; they occupy my mind at all times, and if they 
 do not make me neglect the Scriptures, they make me listless 
 in reading. I much wish that I had some employment for 
 part of the Sabbath, either in a school or visiting, and I trust 
 it may please God to open a door for me. Though my faith 
 seems often weak, I thank God for all His mercies. I can 
 daily feel that Christ is precious, that He is all-sufficient, but 
 also that I am all the while a sinful, feeble follower. Oh, 
 whatever path is opened for me, may I be enabled to glorify 
 Him by walking steadfastly therein, without swerving to the 
 right or to the left ! 
 
 " This evening I went to a Methodist chapel. After the 
 sermon, there was a prayer-meeting. I seemed to keep up a 
 realisation of divine things. The service was not exactly 
 the thing : too much talking in prayer ; too much vehement 
 declamation, rather than sound reasoning, clear statement, 
 or persuasive exhortation ; an evangelising spirit, bringing 
 truths and feelings home ; a primitive simplicity, yet tending 
 to the indecorous. I trust, if it will be for good, that God 
 will enable some of us who are seeking Him in sincerity and 
 
THE STUDENT. 109 
 
 truth, to form something of an association for mutual edifica- 
 tion and prayer. 
 
 "May 28th. This week I made a new acquaintance. 
 
 F seems a very pious young man. We have been 
 
 talking of getting up a meeting of the serious students ; Mr 
 
 E is willing to take something of the kind in hand. 
 
 May God give us His blessing, and effect a great revival ! 
 But what of self ? I can talk very well, but oh, how faithless 
 a heart ! I cannot bring myself to give up paying great 
 attention to classical studies. These may be useful, or they 
 may be easily dispensed with. May I be guided by the 
 Spirit, and kept in subjection ! 
 
 "Johnston, August 27th. . ... If we cannot do as we 
 ought, let us do what we can. ... I fear too great a fond- 
 ness for secular studies is a hindrance to me. May I be 
 enabled to cut off my right hand, were it necessary. Yet 
 this prayer gives me pain ; I shrink from the pruning-knife, 
 and should think it hard to resign my Greek. 
 
 "September 13th. This morning I apprehended the doc- 
 trine of the cross from a new aspect that the believer who 
 comes to Christ, and receives Christ, has a right to forgive- 
 ness of sin. God pardon my presumption, since He Himself 
 is bound to be true to His word. 
 
 "24/i. Reading Barclay's 'Apology/ He holds that 
 Christians may attain perfection. I think he uses sophistry, 
 though there is a great appearance of truth in some of his 
 arguments. If this freedom from sin is to be reached, may 
 I reach it through the indwelling grace of Jesus Christ ! 
 
 "Dublin, October 17th. Returned last week somewhat 
 desponding, anxious on account of worldly matters. Lord, 
 
1 1 THE STUDENT. 
 
 help me to live to Thee ; endue me with the Spirit of holi- 
 ness. The thought that ' He is the propitiation for our sins/ 
 seems to be ever yielding fresh springs of joy.* The Lord 
 preserve me from carelessness or presumption ! 
 
 "2lst. 'God be merciful to me a sinner/ seems to fit 
 me now. I have been reading very hard this week, and my 
 
 mind is wearied Give me no rest, Lord, unless I 
 
 am in Thy ways. Hedge up my path about me. 
 
 " I cannot bear the idea of cutting a sorry figure before 
 the examiner. I am impatient, and wanting in total subjec- 
 tion to the will of God. Oh that this control might cease ! 
 I am weary of the struggle with the flesh, and long for the 
 Lord to come speedily and put all things under His feet. 
 To desire this is our duty ; but even of duties we sometimes 
 make a sin. 
 
 " November 6th. The sermon this morning (2 Cor. xiii. 5) 
 has led me to think on the evidences of being in Christ. I 
 am led to believe that the most essential evidence is the 
 inward witness, (1 John v. 10, 11, Rom. viii. 16, John 
 x. ] 4.) To say that we need our works as proof, is, I think, 
 similar to saying that we require the evidence of eating, 
 drinking, or moving, to convince us that we are alive. My 
 stay is the everlasting covenant. As long as I believe that 
 the Word of God is true, my hope is firm. 
 
 * The original word for propitiation (as every scholar knows) is iXa- 
 rrTTjpiov, literally mercy-seat. That lid of the ark of the covenant, shrouded 
 by the cherubim of glory, covered the chest wherein were deposited the 
 two tables of stone. How significant the teaching that the law has been 
 hidden in Christ, Who wrought it out, and Who, like another mercy-seat, 
 shuts it out from the eye of God, when it would testify against us for our 
 
THE STUDENT. Ill 
 
 " The great beauties of heathen literature, coupled with 
 the great difficulties that are presented by the attempt to 
 reconcile in one's mind some apparently conflicting inference, 
 produce at times a kind of floating infidelity that is very 
 painful I allude to the difficulties in philosophy, the state 
 of mankind, and the consequent speculative doubts as to the 
 goodness of God. All this is very sinful ; we must entirely 
 submit our finite minds until He is pleased to reveal all 
 things. 
 
 "December 2th. Lord, help me now to see into and 
 examine the state of my soul before Thee. Praised be Thy 
 name, I have felt far happier of late. I have a clearer view 
 of Christ, and He has driven away, or at least checked, the 
 tempter. Last week I received a very delightful letter from 
 
 Mr Y on making the Word the chief study. The 
 
 question is, how to do this ? By devoting more time to it 
 than to anything else. That we cannot always do without 
 neglecting college duties. How, then, is this to be man- 
 aged ? May God direct me in this, and shew me where I am 
 wrong. My present plan is to read a certain portion every 
 day, besides the portion for the catechetical lecture ; gene- 
 rally some of the Psalms, a chapter in the Old Testament, 
 one or two in the Gospels, or Acts, and the evening lesson 
 in the Epistles. This should occupy at least three hours. 
 Alas, how dead is my heart to the influence of the Word, 
 though the Lord often gives me a glimpse of light ! 
 
 " How strange are the communications between our souls 
 and the Spirit ! May we rightly understand and duly appre- 
 ciate them ! How do we need a full knowledge of Scrip- 
 ture, to be able fully to explain the nature and prove the 
 
112 THE STUDENT. 
 
 reality and necessity of these manifestations, which are 
 powerful proofs of our fellowship with God in Christ !" 
 
 The following very striking extract has additional interest, 
 from the allusion it contains to his deep spiritual experience 
 in Canada so vividly printed on his recollection : 
 
 " I am sure there is great danger in employing the lan- 
 guage of deep experimental knowledge of divine things, 
 without that heartfelt realisation of them which can alone 
 warrant us in using such language : danger to ourselves, 
 as leading, through various stages, to a presumptuous self- 
 sufficiency ; to others, as tending to originate and sustain 
 the too prevalent belief that all experimental Christianity is 
 delusive or hypocritical. Let those who profess to have 
 experienced the goodness of God, the power of the gospel, 
 the manifestation of Christ, the sprinkling of His blood on 
 their conscience, search deeply into the inmost recesses of 
 their hearts, to know whether they understand terms so 
 expressive and momentous in their fullest sense. Alas, 
 alas ! how little do I seem to know of these deep things of 
 God, beyond a mere philosophical or intellectual apprehen- 
 sion of them ! Yet may I not believe that I have exceeded so 
 meagre an acquiescence ? Otherwise, at a time of depression, 
 heart-sickness, and despondency, could the mere demonstra- 
 tion of a truth, so often heard before without effect, have 
 spoken peace to my soul, have filled my heart with joy 
 unspeakable, have transported into something very like 
 ecstasy a naturally phlegmatic temperament? Above all, 
 could it have abided with me, brightening my path with its 
 
THE STUDENT. 113 
 
 own calm, glorious light, through all the chequerings of sin 
 and unbelief? Surely my faith in the verity of redeeming 
 love was something infinitely deeper than this ! 
 
 "What is the view of Christ in 3 John 11 ? Can we 
 see Him with our bodily eyes ? or are our souls made sensibly 
 aware of His spiritual presence ? Here is dangerous ground ; 
 unbelief on one side, imagination on the other, urged on by 
 the worst of all kinds of mental exaltation spiritual pride. 
 
 " It must be that Jesus reveals Himself to His followers 
 in a mysterious and wonderful manner. First, He promised 
 to do so ; therefore He will. Then, as to the mode : when 
 an object is presented to our natural senses, we are aware of 
 its presence, and perceive it more or less distinctly, accord- 
 ing to circumstances ; such as, for instance, its nearness or 
 remoteness, its fixedness in its original position, the acute- 
 ness of our faculties, their ability to perform their proper 
 functions these being habitually or temporarily dull, or the 
 reverse, as in different individuals, or in different states of 
 the same individual. Still, while these senses are present 
 and in exercise, they cannot but take knowledge of the object 
 placed within their reach, though not at all times, or in all 
 cases, with the same degree of vividness. 
 
 " Even so with the view of Christ. The soul sometimes 
 realises His presence faintly and afar off; at others, power- 
 fully and close at hand. Yet, it is to be remarked, we cannot 
 have this glorious experience when we would, but when the 
 Lord wills, while our spiritual senses must be in a state to 
 receive these divine impressions. In attributing to the soul 
 operations analagous to those of the body such as seeing, 
 feeling, perceiving, these terms must not be restricted as 
 
114 THE STUDENT. 
 
 having the same force, but only as used in a comparative 
 signification mere perceptions, in short, for which the short- 
 comings of language and our own ignorance prevent our 
 using more appropriate expressions. 
 
 "January 28th, 1844. Finished my examinations on 
 Saturday. It pleased the Lord that the premium should be 
 given to me. I felt at first humbled at receiving what I did 
 not deserve, and thankful to God for having permitted me to 
 obtain a pleasing though trifling distinction ; yet now I am 
 conscious of too evident carnal delight and self-complacency. 
 Some students near me behaved very ill ; and a young man 
 reproved them in a firm and bold, though, at the same time, 
 proper manner. I felt reproved for having been too cowardly 
 to speak for truth and Jesus. May I be enabled to pray for 
 grace to be strong in the faith ! " 
 
 It was at this time that he lost his father. His necessary 
 removal for a time from the scene of his studies, and his 
 occupation with private business, are noticed as follows : 
 
 " Johnston, April 28th, 1 844. How remiss have I been 
 in registering the mercies of God and my own unfaithfulness ! 
 This has been so great, that it has hindered their due remem- 
 brance. It pleased the Lord to remove my dear father on 
 the 28th February ; consequently I left Dublin, and for a 
 time suspended my studies. It seemed to be my duty to 
 undertake the examination of his accounts, and attend to the 
 settlement of family affairs. 
 
 " In this dispensation there is much cause for rejoicing. 
 There is ground to believe that my father built his faith up- 
 
THE STUDENT. 115 
 
 on the right foundation. Indeed, I have much confidence 
 on this momentous point. Lord, increase my faith, and 
 make me more in earnest for the salvation of others ; and 
 open my mouth to speak the truth in love whenever Thou 
 givest the opportunity, that my life may adorn my high pro- 
 fession. " 
 
 Mr Bowen was now obliged to take advantage of the op- 
 portunity afforded by Trinity College Dublin, of keeping his 
 terms there, and residing at home, that he might conduct 
 the arrangement of family affairs. His father had been for 
 some time in declining health, and unable to attend to busi- 
 ness, consequently there was much to be done of a perplexing 
 and harassing nature. Attached as he was to his studies, 
 and anxious to complete his course, so as to be prepared for 
 God's work, he yet devoted himself nobly to this unpleasant 
 task, and sought to relieve his mother of her anxieties to the 
 utmost of his power. When all was settled there was but 
 little left for her and her daughters, and nothing for him. 
 He had resolved, before his father's death, to defray all the 
 expenses of his college course from the proceeds of the sale 
 of his farm, and had denied himself many of what most men 
 in his position would have considered the common necessaries 
 of life. After he had paid his college fees, and set apart 
 rather a liberal sum for books, he limited his expenses to 
 ten shillings per week ; six shillings he paid for lodgings, 
 four shillings for board. This economy he had practised 
 from the commencement, and now it was more necessary 
 then ever. He remained with his family until October, but 
 the diary of this period is too full of allusions to business to 
 
116 THE STUDENT. 
 
 be given here. The time was one of sorrow upon sorrow. 
 Anxieties thickened around him, as the future prospects of 
 those he loved were shrouded with gloom. All were in the 
 furnace of affliction, because the Lord of infinite love would 
 have it so. 
 
 We return to his autobiography, where it finds him once 
 more at his old post, and following his studies with increased 
 assiduity : 
 
 "Dublin, October Ilth, 1844. Returned here a few days 
 ago. Can scarcely settle my mind to reading. 
 
 " November 3d Finished the term examination yesterday 
 week. Was much favoured in science ; answered badly 
 in the classics, not having read ; but to my great surprise, 
 was placed in the first class, and recommended in the mathe- 
 matics and logic. In this the hand of God is to be acknow- 
 ledged. Perhaps this trifling distinction is for some useful 
 purpose ; but what evil does my foolish heart bring out of 
 it ! How much vain glory ! 
 
 " Read very hard the week after the examination, to go in 
 for honours. My mind was too much set upon it ; prayed, 
 I believe sincerely, for direction, and that I might be pre- 
 vented, were my wish unwise ; yet felt very bent on trying. 
 The act would be right if I could perform it in a proper 
 spirit ; but the exertion and excitement are very bad ; I felt 
 this morning as if I had been to a ball. 
 
 " I do not yet know what success I have had. I answered 
 very badly, and lost my presence of mind. I have some 
 hopes of a second, but shall not be disappointed at getting 
 nothing, The eagerness I feel for these things humbles me 
 
THE STUDENT. 11? 
 
 much. How far more earnest am I about paltry distinctions 
 than the salvation of souls ! Lord, quicken me in Thy 
 statutes ! 
 
 " Went to Mr 's rooms on Friday evening to consult 
 
 about the Sunday school. He seems desirous of doing good, 
 but does not know how to set about it. After tea, we dis- 
 cussed the subject, but did not pray for a blessing on the 
 undertaking. I am afraid his views are not altogether cor- 
 rect, and am uncertain how far it is right to act with those 
 who do not fully or properly acknowledge the hand of God 
 in all things. I trust to speak to him fully and clearly. 
 
 " 24:th. Again immersed in college business ; latterly, I 
 have been enjoying much peace of mind. I cannot help 
 feeling that this may be from the apparent absence of any 
 imminent temporal evil ; and also, from my mind being 
 fully occupied in agreeable pursuits, as much as, or more than, 
 from any special realising of the presence of the Lord. My 
 time, it is true, is spent in a continued round of necessary 
 duties, attending to my studies, and the ordinances of 
 religion, the Sunday school, and reading the Word. But 
 this is but the work of the body. How often do I kneel 
 without praying ! how often do I pray without faith ! I 
 feel that it behoves me to do something for the people of 
 the house I am lodging in ; yet I shrink from this evident 
 duty. Then, again, I waste much of my time, and am often 
 guilty of lying in bed in the morning. Alas ! 'in me 
 dwelleth no good thing.' I have nothing in myself. I 
 must receive everything from Christ ; and that not im- 
 parted, but only imputed Oh, may I be more earnest 
 
 for the salvation of all around me \ Let not my confessions 
 
118 THE STUDENT. 
 
 and desires remain on paper, but may they develop in true 
 repentance and sincere prayer ! How glorious that Christ 
 is all-sufficient for my vileness ! that He has paid my debt, 
 and washed my soul ! Oh, may this amazing love kindle 
 mine, and stimulate me to be earnest in doing my Master's 
 will, and diligent in seeking the welfare of the souls He died 
 to save ! This seems to me to be the Christian's work : to 
 seek to know more of the Lord himself, and to seek that 
 more may know Him." 
 
 It was just at this crisis in his history that he was called 
 upon to go through another of those mental conflicts the 
 result of indecision as to which of two courses was the right 
 one to be pursued. 
 
 Hardly had he escaped from a similar perplexity in 
 Canada, and decided the matter, as we all believe, according 
 to the will of God, than an offer that was made to him 
 under peculiar circumstances, called forth once more his 
 most earnest and struggling deliberations. 
 
 At either period it is significant to remark the sincerity 
 with which he waited on the Lord, and watched for His 
 guidance. We are indebted to Mr Gribble for a full account 
 of the whole affair. His narrative contains many letters 
 from Mr Bowen, descriptive of the leading considerations 
 which perplexed him in making his choice, and at the same 
 time touchingly revealing the trustful patience with which 
 he waited for signs of the guidance of Providence, and his 
 anxiety lest, through any short-sightedness on his part, he 
 should fail to discover them. 
 
 "In the winter of the year 1845," writes Mr Gribble, "an 
 
THE STUDENT. 119 
 
 occasion arose which led to a new development of John's 
 character. I must preface my mention of it with a few 
 remarks. 
 
 " A gentleman in her Majesty's Service, named Gardiner, 
 had been for some years well known to the world in 
 England for his singular and laborious efforts to carry the 
 gospel into regions, and among tribes, then unvisited by 
 Christian missionaries. 
 
 "It so happened, that when I was in Cambridge some 
 years before, I had become acquainted with the Kev. Mr 
 Owen, who was at that time about to proceed with Captain 
 Gardiner to the Zoolu tribes in South Africa. I never met 
 Gardiner, but Owen made my acquaintance with a view to 
 ascertaining from me, as one who had been abroad, what 
 arrangements would be needful for a residence in a tropical 
 climate. Our intimacy was strengthened by the interest 
 I felt in his expedition. 
 
 " It is remarkable to see how things have changed since 
 that period : then nine-tenths of the Church at home, 
 either ignorant or oblivious of what had been done centuries 
 ago by missionaries among the Saxons and Germans as 
 savage as the Zoolus, regarded Captain Gardiner's project 
 as a wild-goose, harebrained scheme. Now we thankfully 
 hear of missionary bishops being appointed to these regions, 
 and rejoice that the first attempts of those pioneers have 
 been followed up by a more regular and complete system of 
 Church missionary organisation. 
 
 "So Captain Gardiner and Mr Owen went on their 
 mission to the Zoolus. They were obliged to encounter and 
 confront the ferocity of Dingaru, the chief of the tribe, and, 
 
120 THE STUDENT. 
 
 after acquiring enough of the language to enable them to 
 preach Christ to that poor savage, they were compelled to 
 abandon the ground. 
 
 "Upon this Gardiner resolved to assay a new field, and 
 selected Patagoni-a as the scene of his future labours. He 
 had recently married a daughter of the Eev. Canon Marsh. 
 That gentleman had then a cure at Hampstead, where he was 
 much honoured and loved ; and it was at that place, in the 
 winter of 1845, that I had the pleasure of first seeing him. 
 He was full of the proposed mission to Patagonia, and very 
 eager to hear of some young man who would accompany 
 his son-in-law in a missionary capacity. 
 
 " I mentioned your brother, as a man combining all the 
 qualities which would be required for so arduous an enter- 
 prise. Mr Marsh immediately caught at the suggestion, 
 and requested me to write to Mr Bowen, to the effect that 
 the Bishop of London (Dr Blomfield) had promised Sir 
 Thomas Bloomfield, then the chairman of the committee of 
 the new mission, to ordain a man at once, should one fitted 
 for the work be recommended to his Lordship. 
 
 " I wrote to your brother, and mentioned the circumstances 
 of the case; but, as far as I can remember, without any 
 urgency or advice. Nor did I, as you will see from his 
 letter, recommend his accepting it. I feel justified in intro- 
 ducing his reply, for two reasons. In the first place, the 
 mission itself has been very prominently before the public ; 
 the terrible mishap which had befallen it ; the deplorable 
 and martyr-like death of Captain Gardiner and his com- 
 panions ; and the indomitable persistency with which the 
 mission had been followed up, combined to invest the effort 
 
THE STUDENT. 121 
 
 with great interest. Again, your brother's answer affords 
 most satisfactory evidence of the prudence of his spirit and 
 the soundness of his judgment. He weighed the proposal in 
 all its bearings, as a man who sought to ascertain the will of 
 God and his own duty, by gathering indications from reason- 
 able considerations : 
 
 "'16 WICKLOW STREET, January 30, 1845. 
 
 " ' . . . . Your letter, which arrived last night, has placed 
 before me a decision which calls indeed for much prayer, 
 and it is my earnest desire to have no will in the matter 
 but God's. 
 
 " ' There are many arguments to be considered on both 
 sides. The first is that of serving my mother and sisters ; 
 it was like dear Mrs Gribble to think of them. But, on the 
 other hand, another might be found who could more efficiently 
 attend to their temporal interests than I can ; and when 
 and wherever it may be my lot to labour, they could not 
 expect much of my time, neither do I think it would be 
 required by them. Perhaps the greatest difficulty is the 
 painful feeling of a separation so distant and lasting ; but I 
 left home and all its ties in the service of the world, shall I 
 not much more do so in the service of God ? I think that 
 the objection of the call for labourers at home has not much 
 weight ; the answer will readily suggest itself to your mind. 
 A more important one seems to be the incompleteness of my 
 education. I have not yet read any of what are usually called 
 Divinity books, having given my time to carefully preparing 
 the college course, and, I trust, no inconsiderable portion of 
 it to the Word of God, of which my knowledge is still very 
 
122 THE STUDENT. 
 
 limited. Yet I think that by reading two or three months with 
 a tutor, I could pass a Bishop's examination. There is, perhaps, 
 nothing I should regret more than my unfinished studies ; 
 they are like my half-cleared farm ; but this I know is wrong, 
 they are but means to an end, and means that God can, if 
 He please, dispense with, (Zech. iv. 6.)* 
 
 "'Should it be His will that I should take this course, or- 
 dination might be obtained here as well as in London. I shall 
 send the papers to my mother, and can say nothing further 
 till I hear from her. You will not, I fear, have time to 
 answer this ; but if so, I should like to know what are the 
 Bishop of London's requirements for missionary candidates. 
 If filial duties should not be an insurmountable obstacle, I 
 shall, of course, have a great many inquiries to make ; but I 
 will defer them until I know my own position better. I 
 must acknowledge that though there are many conflicting 
 wishes, yet I have an inclination to offer my services ; but a 
 close examination tells me that that inclination is connected 
 with many fleshly motives, arising probably out of the same 
 disposition that made me engage in the life of a Canadian 
 settler. ... * May the Lord make my way plain, and enable 
 me to act for the love of Jesus, and not from a natural 
 fondness for change and adventure/ 
 
 " While transcribing this letter, it has occurred to me that 
 there is much of true and beautiful nature expressed in it. 
 Nature is often sadly abused by theologians, and the taint 
 of Manicheism has long discoloured and still defaces our 
 
 * " Not by might, nor by power, but by my Spirit, saith the Lord of 
 hosts." 
 
THE STUDENT. 123 
 
 sermons and writings. The fact is, that evil and misery are, 
 after all, though the paradox may be startling, as unnatural 
 as they are universal. Degraded nature yearns for restora- 
 tion, and Christ will bring her back to her first and fairest 
 forms, adorning these with an incomparable grace in animate 
 and inanimate creatures. In your brother's letter there is 
 a disclosure of natural and religious thought, which is so 
 like the mental working of St Paul and of all real Christian 
 men, and so like what a brother and a son, warmed by true 
 love, should feel, that it would be unseemly to draw hard 
 lines between what is called conventionally grace and nature. 
 Whether we read it theologically, or look at it through the 
 easier medium of undisciplined and unforced thought, there 
 is that in it which must so touch the man of God and the 
 man of the world, (if he will but read it,) as to remind both 
 of the truth of the noble saying 'One touch of nature 
 makes the whole world kin.' 
 
 "And what your brother felt was no more than what 
 thousands have felt before him. If, therefore, the production 
 of his letter have the effect of toning down the harsh judg- 
 ment which some men decree against the grandest of all 
 enthusiasms, the desire to serve Christ and man anywhere, 
 the wide world over ; if it shame back the sneer with which 
 vulgar spirits dispose of the whole question of missions, and 
 of the self-denial of missionaries, and of the anxious thought 
 stirred up by the proposal of expatriation for the love of 
 others ; or if it induce any young clergyman to consider 
 himself free to serve Christ anywhere, and, at the same time, 
 to exercise a sound discretion as to what may be the sup- 
 posed or real demand of Christ upon his powers and personal 
 
THE STUDENT. 
 
 devotion, the letter will not have been written or transferred 
 in vain. 
 
 "I have several others written in the year 1845. To 
 preserve the continuity of the narrative, those will be intro- 
 duced which relate to the mission above alluded to : 
 
 " ' LITTLE HAVEN, May 26, '45. 
 
 "'The question relative to Patagonia has been again 
 brought before me, and, in some respects, under different 
 circumstances. I trust that the Lord will speedily and 
 clearly make His will known, and enable me to fulfil it.' 
 
 "'June 19, 1845. 
 
 "'I ought to have written to you before, but have had 
 much employment, both in body and mind. The letter of 
 Dr Williams, you returned me this day, was sent by the Eev. 
 Mr Coneys of Trinity College, Dublin, to whom I forwarded 
 it, in order that he might ask a young man there who had 
 finished his course, if he would undertake the mission, which 
 he declined. I have since exchanged several letters with 
 Sir T. Bloomfield and Dr Williams, whose last but one, I 
 send you with this. You will see by it that Captain Gardiner 
 has been heard from ; duplicates of his and of Mr Hunt's 
 letters have been sent me, but I was desired to return them 
 without copying them. The letters were short, and gave an 
 account of some difficulties experienced from the natives ; 
 and the society seems now to have sufficient funds, so that 
 one obstacle is removed, and the point to be considered is, 
 my duty. There are, at present, two duties of perhaps a 
 secondary character, but still, to my mind, positive, unless 
 
THE STUDENT. 125 
 
 some other should be shewn to be paramount to them. One 
 is to complete what may be termed the secular preparation 
 for the ministry, by finishing my college course ; the other, 
 to seek to settle my mother's colliery affairs, and, if possible, 
 extricate her from the difficulties in which she may be involved. 
 If these matters should terminate by my losing the means I had 
 designed for college expenses, it may be a leading of Provi- 
 dence to direct me to the missionary work. My mind wavers 
 much on this subject ; I feel so greatly my own deficiencies, 
 and the need of longer study, though I know that God may 
 make me useful without these things. Again, I feel so much 
 the darkness that is in our own land ; but here the means of 
 grace abound, abroad, these are wanting. The case, as you 
 will see, appeared very urgent ; and after seeking earnestly 
 for the Lord's direction, I informed Sir T. Bloomfield that I 
 would go, if ordination could be obtained for me; other- 
 v.-ise, I felt that I could not. It seemed that if the Holy 
 Ghost had called me to the work, I ought to be regularly 
 separated and appointed to it; and also by making this 
 proviso, I put the matter, as it were, out of my own hands, 
 as when I made leaving Canada dependent on selling my 
 farm in a given time. I hope this is not a tempting of 
 Providence. Application for ordination was to have been 
 made by some friends in Dublin to the Archbishop there, or 
 to the Bishop of CasheL I have not yet heard the result. 
 My poor mother is resigned to the step, but others of my 
 friends are averse to it ; and my uncle, of whom you have 
 heard, who offered me money to buy land in Canada, has 
 said that he will, if necessary, give me the means for continu- 
 ing at college. These things, though they cannot influence 
 
1 26 THE STUDENT. 
 
 the decision, are yet a trial to me ; and the desire I have to 
 serve my mother's interests, which, indeed, seems to be a 
 duty, as well as the destitute state of my own country in 
 spiritual things, tend to increase the inward struggle. But 
 the Lord knows best where my services are required, and 
 they can only be useful where He pleases. It is my hope, 
 that with the eye of faith I may see His hand disposing of 
 me. If it be His will that I take this post, I trust He will 
 give me perseverance to go on with the work It will indeed 
 be a high honour to be the instrument of planting a church 
 in those dark and desolate regions. My Christian regards, ' &c. 
 
 " Thus he made his decision ; and at the cost of immense 
 personal sacrifice and feeling : but that was all which his 
 Lord demanded from him ; the servant of God had been put 
 upon his trial, and, by Divine grace, he had stood the test. 
 Thus much did God demand ; but the actual entrance upon 
 the mission was not required. 
 
 " The next communication shews a turn in affairs : 
 
 "'LITTLE HAVEN, June 30, 1845. 
 
 " ' MY DEAE , Many thanks for your last kind and 
 
 judicious letter. My own views of the relations which should 
 exist between me and the committee were very similar, but 
 as yet crude and indefinite. However, it has pleased God 
 once again to put a stop to my going, and that, in a marked 
 manner. Captain Gardiner and Mr Hunt, the catechist, 
 have returned, and the mission is for a time suspended. The 
 circumstances that led to this I am unacquainted with ; but I 
 received a letter from Sir T. Bloomfield, informing me of 
 
THE STUDENT. 127 
 
 this, and saying that the committee would, in consequence, 
 break off the negotiation with me. And, moreover, my uncle, 
 of whom you have heard me speak, has offered to defray my 
 college expenses liberally. Thus it seems clear that my duty 
 is to proceed to taking my degree ; and oh, may the Lord 
 enable me to make profitable use of the remainder of the 
 time allotted for preparation ! The day before receiving the 
 above communication, I had been disappointed by the refusal 
 of one, in whom I placed confidence, to undertake the 
 management of my mother's affairs. At first I was glad of 
 the reprieve, but I really think I would rather incur the 
 hardships of Patagonia than the petty trials of dealing in 
 complicated worldly affairs with worldly men. And it 
 seems distressing to our finite minds that the gospel should 
 not be preached to the poor savages of Magellan. But the 
 Lord is working out His own purposes, and we shall know 
 hereafter what He is doing now/ 
 
 " This letter brings me to the close of your brother's nego- 
 tiations with the Patagonian Mission Society ; and although 
 they failed of the expected result, they were useful towards 
 the promotion of his character and the development of his 
 faith, love, and courage. His first consideration was duty ; 
 but he found himself in an entanglement of obligations. At 
 last he decided to go, and his decision was consequent 
 upon bad tidings from the spot, which would have made 
 many quail, but which led him up to the forlorn hope. 
 
 "His respect for due ordination in the Church of God, 
 his love to his mother and sisters, and his sense of duty to 
 Christ, seemed for a time in antagonism ; his own personal 
 
128 THE STUDENT. 
 
 ease had no place in the conflict. At last, when, as on the 
 memorable Sunday in the little church of the Lake Shore, 
 he surrendered his will to God, the sacrifice was made and 
 accepted, and he was set free to pursue what proved to be 
 (so far as we can pronounce) his right course." 
 
 In connexion with the subject of the Patagonian Mission, 
 there is a touching little incident, of which mention must not 
 be omitted. 
 
 Disastrous speculations and unforeseen mishaps had very 
 materially affected the fortunes of Mr Bowen's family. On 
 the death of the head of the house, they found their circum- 
 stances so reduced that they were compelled to exchange the 
 comfort of their luxurious home for the poverty and retire- 
 ment of a far humbler dwelling. Added to this, a dangerous 
 epidemic had invaded the circle ; and at the very time that 
 Mr Bowen wrote to his widowed mother to request her 
 sanction to his half-formed purpose, two of his sisters and 
 an adopted child were on beds of sickness. 
 
 In the multitude of anxieties and sorrows that oppressed 
 her, she felt for a moment that the appeal was almost cruel. 
 Every instinct of nature, every conception of duty, seemed in 
 arms against it. Resign him when his father's seat was 
 empty ! When poverty, sickness, and bereavement had 
 mingled their bitter waters in the cup placed to her lips ! 
 Surely he ought to be at her side holding her head as she 
 drank it ! She took up her pen to write to him that thus she 
 felt and thought perhaps to breathe a sad reproach that he 
 could, at such a moment, have even meditated leaving her 
 when, looking down, she recognised the chair in which she sat. 
 
THE STUDENT. 1 29 
 
 In that chair she had been reclining long years back when 
 an infant boy was first laid in her lap. Sitting there in her 
 weakness, she, like another Hannah, had dedicated him to 
 the Lord. That boy, now a man, had at length unconsciously 
 invited her to fulfil her vow. 
 
 Those who were about her noticed her sudden glance, the 
 change that had come over her countenance, the deep so- 
 lemnity and earnestness of her expression. In a moment 
 the memory of her troubles was gone , tears of humility, 
 faith, and constancy rolled down her cheeks as the feelings of 
 her soul found utterance in words like those of the brave old 
 Hebrew chieftain " I have opened my mouth unto the Lord, 
 and I cannot go back ! " It seemed as though One with a 
 thorn crown, and grave look that read her soul, was at her 
 side. It seemed as though the words were being whispered 
 in her ear with searching emphasis " Lovest thou ME ? " 
 
 "Yea, Lord, Thou knowest that I love Thee !" The vow 
 was fulfilled to the uttermost, though the sacrifice was one 
 that might well wring in sunniest days a mother's heart ; 
 how much more, when the heaven was black with clouds and 
 rain! Knowing that if he went she would see his face no more 
 on earth, she wrote unhesitatingly her full and free consent. 
 
 Beyond the fairest fancy of the painter, beyond the grand- 
 est vision of the poet, was that saintly heroism, that com- 
 plete immolation of nature and self ; for the one may weave 
 his rhymes for ever, and the other set forth on canvas his 
 noblest images, and yet both shall fail to render, in full truth 
 and justice, that glorious scene. It was one of the magnifi- 
 cent victories of saintly faith ; and as the Christian warrior 
 conquered in imparted strength, angel voices might have been 
 
130 THE STUDENT. 
 
 heard chanting their triumphant pseans. It was the breaking 
 of the precious alabaster box, and the utter pouring out at 
 His feet of its yet more precious treasure ; and, verily, verily, 
 as the costly sacrifice was made, " the house was filled with 
 the odour of the ointment/' 
 
 Eecently he alluded to his desire to be useful in the family 
 with whom he was lodging, and his timidity on the subject. 
 The next entry will shew that He clung to his conviction of 
 duty, and was enabled to overcome his bashfulness : 
 
 " I have made an arrangement to read on Sunday evenings 
 with my landlady ; she seems obliged. I trust God will give 
 His blessing to this poor attempt to advance His glory. 
 Have taken up for my catechetical premium Gesenius's 
 'Hebrew Lexicon/ and 'Apostolic Fathers/ The latter I 
 am too fond of ; and have allowed them to break in upon my 
 stated Scripture reading. They contain much that is very 
 beautiful and true, and this substituting of what closely 
 approaches the Word for the very Word itself, is what has 
 led to so many errors in the Church. May I be enabled to 
 separate the good from the bad ! " 
 
 His diary, from the 29th of January to the 2d of March, 
 contains full allusion to his great subject of perplexity. It 
 discloses the earnest sincerity with which he laboured to 
 ascertain the true will of God concerning him, at what 
 appeared to be a most important period in his history. 
 
 He refers to this period in the following terms : 
 
 " March Zd. I have received a letter from Sir T. Bloom- 
 
THE STUDENT. 131 
 
 field about Patagonia. The committee want funds, so it 
 seems necessary to wait." 
 
 Thence, with a mind at rest in what he felt to be a decision 
 from on high, he glances off to quite another matter : 
 
 " I have been much excited by seeing a party of North 
 American Indians, of the Iowa tribe, brought over by Catlin, 
 exhibiting in this town. These poor people are here in a 
 Christian country, displaying their wild heathen dances. 
 The party consists of a chief, an inferior chief, medium man, 
 with several warriors and squaws. It seems to be a positive 
 duty to make an effort to evangelise them, or at least to bring 
 the gospel before them. They have a negro interpreter, a 
 very fine interesting person. Oh that these people might 
 take the gospel back with them to their native land ! I have 
 been to see them to-day, and was civilly received by Mr 
 Melody ; I am very anxious to find some way of bringing 
 the gospel before them ; it should be done solemnly and 
 impressively, by a deputation of clergymen. Lord, have 
 mercy upon these poor outcasts ! Who am I, that I should 
 cvL-ii try to do anything for them ? In order that the thing 
 should be done as it ought, it would be necessary for some 
 one to make himself very busy ; from this I feel a shrinking. 
 At the same time, I have an unholy pleasure in doing some- 
 thing out of the common. How full of sin I am ; can it be 
 that God will turn to any use so vile an instrument ! 
 
 " March 9th, (Sunday.) I have been very busy about the 
 Indians all the week. Felt much my own weakness and want 
 of wisdom. Have been every day to see them at their lodg- 
 
132 THE STUDENT. 
 
 ings, or at the Rotunda. Had no opportunity of speaking to 
 them of Christ until to-day. Gave the interpreter a Bible 
 on the strength of the promise, ' Cast thy bread upon the 
 waters.' There has been a difficulty in getting the Indians 
 to a meeting, as we did not feel at liberty to put them much 
 out of their way, fearing lest some of the whites who are with 
 them should, by contemptuous remarks, injure any attempt 
 to preach to them unaccompanied by a substantial present. 
 Nor is a gift altogether unnecessary, as well to imprint what 
 is said on their memories, as to assure them of our goodwill. 
 I had hoped to have induced two or three gentlemen, Mr 
 
 H , Mr C , and Mr M , to speak to them last 
 
 Thursday, but they were busy, and the Indians did not come 
 up, so that I almost despaired of ever effecting my object. On 
 
 Thursday, I went with Mr B to the exhibition, and on 
 
 Friday at eleven, to be present at a Quaker's visit. He had 
 some interesting conversation with them, but did not preach 
 
 the gospel. Mr B suggested giving them a breakfast, 
 
 and promised to assist me. Mr C - recommended me to 
 
 apply to Dr S , and on Saturday morning went with me 
 
 to his rooms. Mr H was there. I proposed to Dr 
 
 S to have them at his rooms in college ; he expressed 
 
 himself delighted at the suggestion, so it was settled for them 
 to come at two o'clock on Tuesday, and I was enabled to 
 conclude the engagement. Thus far, the matter has pro- 
 ceeded beyond my fondest hope ; to get the meeting in the 
 college was what I wished, but felt to be hopeless ; and, in 
 
 all probability, had not Mr H - been at Dr S 's, it 
 
 would never have been recommended. 
 
 " To-day I went down and tried to preach the gospel to 
 
THE STUDENT. 133 
 
 the Indians. I collected together the Interpreter, White 
 Cloud, Watanee, Nohoshingnagu, the invalid, and White 
 Cloud's Squaw, in their room, and told them some of the 
 simple truths about Jesus. They listened with attention. 
 White Cloud said he had heard of these things, and sup- 
 posed they must be true, as the white men believed them, 
 but he did not think the old Indians would ever come to 
 know them, though their children might. Watanee, who 
 appeared most attentive, said that he was much obliged to 
 me for coming and speaking to them. May the Lord be 
 gracious and merciful to them ! Alas ! I have sinned much 
 in my endeavours to do them good. I have allowed my 
 mind to be too full of them, and neglected needlessly my 
 regular reading of God's Word." 
 
 Few will have read this little episode without being much 
 moved by his tender jealous earnestness for the spiritual 
 interests of others. His was the large-hearted catholicity 
 of that great apostle who would have embraced the whole 
 world in his arms. Yet in the midst of his noble ardour 
 for these benighted souls, his acute suspense and anxiety 
 on their behalf, how touching the entry which shews him 
 mourning over the sin which had disfigured his service, in- 
 stead of congratulating himself on the zeal with which that 
 service had been rendered. It was said once, by a great and 
 good man, " A little thing awry is much awry in the eye of 
 love/' The sentiment is literally true, and the diary of Mr 
 Bowen abounds with illustrations of its meaning. The in- 
 terview between the Indians and their Christian friends, so 
 happily arranged by the subject of this memoir, came off at 
 
134 THE STUDENT. 
 
 the time and in the place appointed. A few brief details 
 may interest the reader : 
 
 "llth. They met according to agreement in Dr S 's 
 
 rooms. There was a large party to receive them. The con- 
 ference was opened with prayer by Dr S , and some in- 
 teresting conversation took place. Dr S inquired into 
 
 the nature of their religion, and one of the chiefs stated some 
 points in their religious faith and practice. Among other 
 things, he said that they now thought that they, the red 
 men, were further from the Great Spirit than the men who 
 wore hats ; he added, they thought that the red men had in 
 some way offended the Great Spirit, perhaps it was by eating 
 fish, and that He let them run wild. He professed himself 
 ignorant, and added that he was willing to listen to anything 
 his white brother might please to say. 
 
 "Dr S set simply before them the leading doctrines 
 
 of the gospel, and recommended them to pay attention to 
 the missionaries that might go amongst them. 
 
 " A few presents were then given to them, and they were 
 afterwards shewn over the library. Among these gifts was 
 a Bible for the son of White Cloud, the chief. The lad is 
 now under the instruction of the Iowa Mission." 
 
 The next entry is made at Little Haven, Pembrokeshire, 
 where his mother then resided : 
 
 "March 21st. This is Good Friday, the day when the 
 mighty work of expiating the sins of the whole world was 
 completed on the cross at Calvary. The mystery of the 
 
THE STUDENT. 135 
 
 atonement is one I cannot fathom. It was ended in dark- 
 ness ; and may not that miracle shew that the principles of 
 this extraordinary combination of mercy and justice are 
 shrouded from man's finite understanding? I know that 
 many think that they have perfectly clear views on this 
 point ; but, for my part, I can regard the atonement in no 
 other light than as a great mystery, the general character, 
 but not the principles, of which, was made known to man by 
 the institution of vicarious and propitiatory sacrifices. More 
 profitable will it be to contemplate the love that could make 
 the sacrifice, than the guilt that could be expiated by no less 
 an offering. 
 
 " June 29th. On Monday, I made my first attempts at 
 public speaking in this country, at the missionary meeting. 
 Felt nervous, chiefly through vanity ; saw that there was an 
 opportunity of saying something for Christ, but became 
 embarrassed. Thursday, wrote to my uncle, thanking him 
 for his generous offer of defraying my college expenses, and 
 yesterday received a very kind answer, characterising, how- 
 ever, the missionary scheme as madness. I did not make 
 the question of receiving aid from him, when the mission 
 was dropped, a subject for prayer, but accepted it as a matter 
 of course. The world may now be said to be smiling upon 
 me. I cannot help feeling that my present situation is one 
 of more danger to my spirituality of mind, than the hardships 
 and difficulties that might have been encountered on the 
 desolate shores of Terra del Fuego. 
 
 "Dublin, July 18, 1845. Arrived here this morning. 
 
 " July 26th. Moved into chambers in college to-day. 
 After settling our things, H and myself knelt down, 
 
136 THE STUDENT. 
 
 while I endeavoured to ask the Lord's blessing upon our 
 residence here. May we be enabled to give ourselves wholly 
 to Christ, and endeavour, as far as possible, to be useful to 
 
 one another, and all around us May I be enabled to 
 
 walk in the steps of my Master Jesus, my God, and my 
 Brother. Oh, how wonderful is this ! I, a poor, weak, vile 
 mortal, brother to the Son of God ! it is even so ; the Bible 
 says so : Heb. ii. ; Rom. viii. 29. 
 
 "August 16th. Have, in the space of a few days, felt 
 much variety in states of mind. Last week dined with Mr 
 K ; felt his society a great privilege ; he has much gen- 
 tleness and judgment, and deep love of Christ, but with it a 
 great boldness and firmness of character, and is uncompro- 
 mising in stating the truths he holds. He seemed to think 
 we needed a Hezekiah. to put down Popery with the hand of 
 power; but looked for the abolition of the Irish Church. 
 For three mornings I attended the Bethesda prayer meet- 
 ings ; I feel them to be pleasing means of grace. I spoke 
 
 to-day to Mr W of the great enjoyment of believing 
 
 that we have an answer to prayer. J came, and conversed 
 
 with me on various topics. Something led to the difficulty 
 of establishing some points connected with our Lord's Person, 
 His pre-existence, and Godhead. I felt a pang of unbelief, 
 which still gives me pain. This temptation seems connected 
 with a conversation which we. had yesterday about justifica- 
 tion, in which my friend discussed the perplexities connected 
 with the doctrine of imputed righteousness. Lord, let Thy 
 word be true, though it prove every man to be a liar. 
 
 " I have been dining at Commons for some time. Cannot 
 help feeling much grieved at hearing so much frivolous con- 
 
THE STUDENT. 137 
 
 versation among men, some of whom at least are preparing 
 to enter the ministry. Feel in much doubt as to the course 
 I ought to pursue with regard to such as indulge in improper 
 inuendoes. When I sit near them, I feel that I am shrinking 
 from my duty in not reproving them ; and yet I know not 
 how to do so, without giving them an opportunity of saying 
 that the evil was in my mind, not in theirs ; unfortunately, 
 the result of my silence may be a sort of encouragement to 
 younger men to neglect their duty, and the creating a doubt 
 in their minds of my own consistency, in listening without 
 protest to what I know to be wrong. Oh, may I have wis- 
 dom, faith, and courage to confess Christ before men. 
 
 " My ethical reading interferes sadly with the time formerly 
 allotted to the study of the Word ; but the effect produced 
 on my mind seems to be an increased reverence for the 
 Bible, as it leads me to feel that here alone is pure unadul- 
 terated truth, while all other books contain more or less the 
 wonderings and conjecturings of men. 
 
 "November 16th. Commenced divinity lectures. 
 
 "December 1%th. Moved into M'l 's rooms. This 
 
 week I am unsettled for reading. M'l - seems a most 
 exemplary young man ; his diligence, regularity, and self- 
 denial are a lesson to me. 
 
 "January 1, 1846. Hitherto the Lord has spared me. 
 For the third time I attended Mr Krause's service on the first 
 day of the year ; his text was Psalm cxxi. 5, ' The Lord is thy 
 keeper;' the words were forcibly applied. Last evening 
 
 L , A , and H , came in after night-roll, to sit 
 
 the New Year in. Our conversation after tea was more 
 desultory than it ought to have been. We commenced our 
 
138 THE STUDENT. 
 
 little service with a selection of prayers from the Liturgy ; 
 then we read and discussed 1 Tim. vi. At twelve, wishing 
 each other a happy New Year, we knelt down, and I offered 
 up a prayer. Felt more liberty than usual ; I trust the Holy 
 Spirit was with us. 
 
 " The year that is past has been an interesting one to me. 
 Among its special occurrences, I may enumerate the circum- 
 stances connected with the Patagonian Mission, the liberality 
 and kindness of my uncle, and many deaths amongst my 
 friends. 
 
 " My fourth year at college is now begun. I feel more 
 worldly-minded, set more value on comfort and appearances 
 than formerly, being willing now to spend money on them. 
 
 " I am occasionally shaken on matters of faith ; the doc- 
 trines of justification and election seem hard to me some- 
 times. I tremble lest I have been in error, or am now 
 weakened in truth, and liable to be led astray by sin and 
 Satan. ' The Lord is thy keeper/ Oh, may I never provoke 
 Him to leave me for a moment to myself ! 
 
 "January llth. How much cause for humiliation do I 
 derive from the study of my evil nature ! Amongst other 
 things, I have wilfully neglected the duty of visiting the 
 poor. My conscience has been very uneasy on that score ; 
 to-day, I could resist no longer, so I went and saw a 
 shoemaker in George Street. I have invariably been very 
 backward on such occasions, so far, at least, as regards per- 
 sonal appeal to those I visit. Yet a mouth and wisdom have 
 been given me, and the effort has been acknowledged by my 
 being permitted after all to speak and pray with an unusual 
 absence of restraint. This was the case to-day. The poor 
 
THE STUDENT. 139 
 
 people seemed glad to see me again, especially the wife, who 
 appeared at one time not to relish my visits she had been 
 brought up a Roman Catholic. I reproach myself for having 
 so long neglected them. 
 
 " I have to blame myself much in the course I have pur- 
 sued with regard to my uncle, through fear of offending him. 
 I have not been sufficiently open in professing my desire of 
 pleasing him in my course of study. It is true, I wish to 
 meet his views, but I have been reading ethics instead of 
 mathematics ; the former being the more useful course, and 
 the only one in which I have any chance of distinction, though 
 he approved of the latter. I must write and put the matter 
 before him ; I feel that I deserve chastening. May I be en- 
 abled to bear what God may send me ! 
 
 " I saw this evening, at the Bethesda, two young colle- 
 gians whom I know to be of a trifling disposition. May 
 the truths they have now heard be blessed to them ! There 
 is grace for all. 
 
 "February 22d. My last entry startles me as I read it 
 and interpret it by the event of this morning. It seems as 
 though a gracious answer were about to be vouchsafed 
 to the prayer it contains. One of these young men asked 
 me to his rooms to-day ; I went in some doubt as to whether 
 I was doing right. After a little general conversation, he 
 spoke of his desire * to improve himself in religion,' of the 
 responsibility of the ministry, for which he is intended, and 
 asked my advice. I felt humbled that I had not always 
 deserved the confidence he seemed to place in me. May the 
 Spirit of God work in him the universally needed change ! 
 
 " I have been again asked to undertake a mission to South 
 
140 THE STUDENT. 
 
 America, but have felt that the way is not open for me to 
 go. No sign of invitation has proceeded from the natives 
 only Captain Gardiner has been endeavouring to ascertain if 
 anything can be done for the aborigines north of Patagonia. 
 
 " When we state the doctrines of free grace as strongly as 
 they are laid down in Scripture, we should also apply the 
 cautions that are given to take heed lest we fall. These 
 may appear sometimes contradictory, but as they are both 
 true, being God's word, they can certainly be reconciled 
 with each other, though the proper mode of doing so may 
 now be unknown to us. 
 
 "July 1st. Yesterday I finished the divinity examina- 
 tion. 1 was disappointed in some of my answers, but found 
 that I obtained a good place, and was recommended. How 
 much we think of these little things ! I may well feel 
 very thankful for getting so good a position. Some of the 
 books I had not properly read, and I have more cause to be 
 ashamed than elated, as better men than myself failed in 
 obtaining success equal to mine. I have been very idle all 
 this day. I trust I shall be enabled to make good use of my 
 time during the summer. 
 
 "July \Wi. I have heard of a curacy at Knaresborough 
 that I should like to get, but in this matter the Lord will 
 provide. I wish especially to be under His direction in the 
 course of reading to be pursued this summer. 
 
 "August 9th. Since the last entry, I have been to 
 England, and seen Mr Cheap and the Bishop of Ripon.* It 
 
 * Bishop Longley afterwards Bishop of Durham, and now Archbishop 
 of York. The kindness and gentle dignity of this venerable and distin- 
 guished prelate are proverbial. 
 
THE STUDENT. 141 
 
 is now settled that I am to be ordained to the curacy of 
 Knaresborough in September. The only obstacle to be re- 
 moved will be in the matter of college testimonials. The 
 period proposed for ordination is much earlier than I could 
 have wished, but as the way seemed so remarkably opened I 
 felt it right to follow in faith the Lord's guidance. I must 
 not look to my own abilities or acquirements for the means 
 of discharging my duties, but to the Lord and His help. I 
 have every reason to thank Him for His mercies to me since 
 I entered college, for the valuable Christian friends He has 
 given me, and for my uncle's liberal aid. 
 
 "My interview with the Bishop was pleasing, from his 
 kindness and urbanity of manner, and from the candour 
 with which he allowed the statement of views contrary to 
 his own. 
 
 "I have lately felt much peace in believing in Jesus, 
 though I have been full of a sense of my own helplessness. 
 Lord, keep me ever leaning on Thee ! 
 
 "August 29th, (Sunday). Sacrament at Bethesda in all 
 probability the last time that I shall communicate with that 
 congregation, or as a layman. I prayed that the Lord would 
 incline me to give myself wholly to Him and His work, 
 especially with reference to my plan of extensive reading 
 after my ordination. I have been studying hard for the last 
 three weeks. I was much pleased with the Articles, and 
 with Burnet, for though I cannot assent to his views on 
 many points, and his reasoning is sometimes false, yet he 
 shews a liberal and tolerant spirit. 
 
 "Last week I was reading 'Bethel on Eegeneration/ 
 rather a trying book; his view is difficult to overthrow, 
 
142 THE STUDENT. 
 
 without the doctrine of perseverance ; but his reasoning is 
 evidently defective in many places, and, to my mind, many 
 of his quotations from the Fathers could be fairly turned 
 against him. However, I am afraid from what he and 
 others state, that our reformers were very strongly imbued 
 with the doctrine of [baptismal] regeneration, and my pre- 
 text for subscribing is, that the language used may be so 
 explained as to admit of either the suppressed hypothesis of 
 earnest prayer, or the judgment of charity. 
 
 " The doctrine of particular redemption has been canvassed 
 
 a good deal lately ; at least, A , with whom I have been 
 
 reading, has been arguing often against it, though I declined 
 entering into any controversy on the subject. 
 
 " My view seems to be this : that Christ hath said that 
 all whom the Father giveth Him, shall come unto Him ; 
 that none have the benefit of His sacrifice but those who 
 believe in Him, or at all events that we cannot affirm other- 
 wise : further, that it is a matter of fact that a large portion 
 of those to whom the gospel is preached, reject it, and that, 
 therefore, He is no sacrifice for them. So that this text, 
 considered as an absolute and unqualified assertion, and 
 viewed in connexion with the well-ascertained general results 
 of gospel teaching, compels us to the doctrine that the saved 
 are saved by the Father's purpose ; and that none others are 
 interested in the work of the Son. On the other hand, St 
 John says, He is the propitiation for the whole world; I 
 am therefore warranted in exhibiting Him as a Saviour to 
 all who come to Him. The passage in 1 John ii. 2, seems 
 to be alluded to in the Epistle to the Church of Smyrna 
 on the martyrdom of Polycarp, when they speak of ' Christ 
 
THE STUDENT. 
 
 Who suffered for the salvation of the whole world of the 
 saved! 
 
 "September 13th, (Sunday.) My ordination is to take 
 place on this day week, a week earlier than I expected. I 
 feel happy in the prospect. My preparation for the exami- 
 nation is wretched, especially in ecclesiastical matters, but I 
 rest in the Lord, and I know I shall not be disappointed. 
 Yesterday the 27th Psalm came home to me with great force. 
 How delightful it is to find that ' the Lord is our light and 
 our salvation/ nay, the very strength of our life. May I 
 ever continue in this glorious experience ! 
 
 " The questions of free will and God's decrees have still 
 been much brought before my mind. Bishop Bethel's book 
 on Eegeneration is, I think, decidedly bad : there are down- 
 right fallacies in his reasoning. Whatever may be the truth 
 as to the question of free will, there is no doubt but that God 
 deals with us as if we were free. ' Ye will not come unto 
 me, that ye might have life.' In our own experience, we 
 are manifestly free to act : on the other hand, God works in 
 us ' to will and to do of His good pleasure ; ' and we are 
 told that 'He hath mercy on whom He will have mercy, 
 and whom he will He hardeneth/ Between God's working 
 all in all and man's accountability we cannot draw the line. 
 
 "This time next Lord's-day evening I expect to be no 
 longer a layman, but to be called to be a minister of the 
 glorious gospel. I cannot help looking forward to the event, 
 as though a change were to be wrought in me, and I can 
 well understand how the mind might be led to attribute 
 some efficacy to the rite of ordination. But I know I shall 
 be the same poor, weak sinner, and can only look for grace 
 
144 THE STUDENT. 
 
 as God is pleased to give it. The only difference that my 
 ordination will necessarily make in me, will be one of relative 
 position the appointment to a particular office in an associ- 
 ated body. On the other side, inasmuch as there is a Church 
 of God, as well as a visible Church, so are there ministers, 
 who, in addition to their outward calling and appointment, 
 received from constituted human authorities, have also a 
 call from God ; and they are the very ministers of Christ's 
 Church. Such may I be ! Lord, I trust, not arrogantly, 
 but in all humility I believe that Thou hast called me to 
 work in Thy vineyard ! Oh, make me faithful ; enable me 
 to give myself wholly to Thee ! I praise Thy name for all 
 the mercies Thou hast shewn me since I set out on the pre- 
 paration for the work. I thank Thee for the comforts of 
 Thy Word, for the peace of mind Thou hast permitted me 
 to enjoy, for the friends Thou hast given me. I thank Thee 
 for the trials Thou hast sent me : they have shewn me much 
 of the sin and worldliness of my heart, and weakness of my 
 faith. 
 
 " Lord, continue to cheer me with the joy of Thy pre- 
 sence ! I am a vain, foolish sinner, and yet I am enabled 
 to rejoice in Thee. How I love the ecstasy of the enthusi- 
 astic chorus 
 
 ' Glory, honour, praise, and power 
 Be unto the Lamb for ever ! 
 Jesus Christ is our Eedeemer ! 
 Hallelujah, praise the Lord ! '" 
 
 So ends his college diary. It is a record of thoughtful 
 experience and earnest conflict. It yields touching evidence 
 of the humility of his spirit, his jealous sensitiveness as 
 
THE STUDENT. 145 
 
 regards the consistency of his walk, his holy watchfulness, 
 his deepening spirituality of mind. 
 
 True, it contains many entries that shew that at first the 
 chains of serfdom were not entirely struck off. More than 
 one sentence has been written with a manacled hand. The 
 doctrinal opinions it presents from time to time will be held 
 to be exclusive and hyper-Calvinistic ; and to these, perhaps, 
 will be traced the absence of that sunny healthfulness of 
 mental tone, the exhibition of which is at once the duty and 
 privilege of the Christian man, and the charm of his charac- 
 ter. Yet who would not rather be fighting in the valley by 
 the side of this valiant soldier, entering with all his earnest- 
 ness into the humiliating work of self -scrutiny, than, with 
 clearer views, perhaps, of the freedom of the gospel, be 
 traversing the slippery heights of a fearful Antmomianism, 
 in all the presumptuous delusion of a groundless faith. 
 
 As we have now reached the conclusion of his college life, 
 it may serve to complete the narrative at this stage, if we 
 insert the following sketch of his character, contributed by 
 a college friend : 
 
 " My acquaintance with your brother began in the spring 
 of 1 845, when we occupied chambers together in the Univer- 
 sity of Dublin. I felt at once his true worth and goodness ; 
 and our intercourse soon ripened into a friendship with 
 which I was favoured uninterruptedly until his death. I 
 speak now as to what he seemed when we first met. He 
 was upright, honourable, moral, and strictly observant of 
 religious duties ; all these good qualities seemed founded on 
 true piety. Throughout the whole of his intercourse with 
 
146 THE STUDENT. 
 
 his fellow-students and others with whom he was brought 
 into contact in the university, he always manifested good 
 sense and good feeling, as well as religious principle ; and 
 thus he commanded respect from many who were far from 
 sympathising with his views and practice. 
 
 " In such assemblages of young men as are met with at a 
 university, it must sometimes happen that many who are 
 really desirous to serve God, by some weakness of mind 
 manifested in their conduct and manners, give occasion to 
 others to ridicule the strictness which they profess in re- 
 ligious matters, or draw upon themselves personally offensive 
 remarks, on the part of those who are not alive to the great 
 importance of religious truth. Mr Bowen's conduct and 
 manners never gave occasion for such things ; they secured 
 him from any approach to such a liberty. 
 
 " I never saw his temper ruffled ; but he told me one day 
 that he had felt and spoken angrily to a fellow-student of 
 ours, who had boasted before him of the success of a mean 
 and ungentlemanly trick, which he had practised. 
 
 "Upon principle, he attended closely and steadily, not 
 only to the theological, but also to the classical and scien- 
 tific reading which formed the appointed course at the 
 university. In these latter branches he did not achieve any 
 remarkable success, but at his examination he acquitted 
 himself in a manner far above the average. His name 
 always stood high in the published lists ; this I always 
 thought a great achievement in his case, as his education at 
 school had no reference to his entrance at our university, and 
 when he did commence his college life, he had for several 
 
THE STUDENT. 
 
 years given up the study of those subjects which form the 
 staple of an academical course. 
 
 " Notwithstanding the time consumed in reading, he had 
 a class in the Sunday-school attached to the Bethesda Epis- 
 copal Chapel, and visited his scholars at their homes, at the 
 same time interesting himself in the families to which they 
 belonged. He has expressed his regret to me that his uni- 
 versity duties prevented him from spending as much time as 
 he wished in visiting the poor. The reality of this compunc- 
 tion was afterwards proved by the diligence which he dis- 
 played in this most important part of a pastor's duty as 
 soon as the trammels of the study were at an end, and the 
 public work of the ministry commenced." 
 
 Another who knew Mr Bowen at this period writes : 
 
 " We were intimate when he was here in college ; we 
 often talked over the message he had undertaken to announce 
 from on high. Boweu had much humility and equal deter- 
 mination, and was a most pleasing person. He came late 
 into the field of Christian labour, but his heart was in the 
 cause, and through all his modest diffidence could be traced 
 the enthusiasm of apostolic energy. 
 
 " I deem him a serious loss to the Church. He seemed to 
 
 me to have very few prejudices He was brave because 
 
 he was simple-minded and single-minded." 
 
 It is cheering to trace in the letters of these his Christian 
 brethren, abundant evidence that that constant suspicion and 
 
148 THE STUDENT. 
 
 depreciation of self that readiness to hold others in supe- 
 rior esteem was duly respected and appreciated. Doubt- 
 less he little thought that at times when the light within him 
 appeared to his eyes to be most feeble and nickering, it was 
 "shining before men," in all the glory conveyed by that 
 majestic word. 
 
 The soundest, perhaps, and most astute of our modern 
 philosophers in a work replete with presences of most 
 graceful thought has established, with singular beauty, 
 the inseparable connexion between modesty and magna- 
 nimity.* Arguing that, as men rise from level to level in 
 their advancing contemplation of the truly grand, there is 
 forced in upon their minds a tacit comparison between the 
 intellectual or moral heights they may be discovering, and 
 those to which their inner life has attained not even to 
 mention such loftier eminences as may be discernible from 
 stations already reached he deduces the universal postulate, 
 that the truly great are truly humble. 
 
 "When I consider Thy heavens, what is man?" So 
 asks the Christian, as he travels the field of intellectual re- 
 search. "When I consider Thy holiness, what is man?" 
 becomes his self-abasing language in all his discoveries of 
 the nature and attributes of God. 
 
 Before taking final leave, however, of Mr Bowen's college 
 life, we may turn back with pleasure to Mr Gribble's ani- 
 mated story, as it bears upon some incidents already narrated, 
 and others connected with the close of his Dublin career, 
 while it contains a few characteristic letters in reference to 
 Ms approaching ordination and future curacy. 
 
 * Isaac Taylor's Saturday Evening. 
 
THE STUDENT. 149 
 
 It is resumed with an interesting notice of the clinging 
 affection with which he remembered his western home. New 
 scenes, with all their varieties of contrast, had in no way 
 effaced the memories of the bush, or interposed between his 
 loving heart and the claims of " auld lang syne : " 
 
 " Your brother retained a strong regard for his old friends 
 abroad, and improved every opportunity which promised an 
 occasion of usefulness to them, and of benefit to the original 
 occupants of the soil. 
 
 " By way of illustration, I find the following passages in 
 one of his notes : 
 
 " ' I trust I shall be able to unite my prayers with yours 
 
 for poor L ; it is a very distressing case, and must be 
 
 so to you particularly. I trust that the Lord will have 
 mercy upon him. 
 
 "'A party of Iowa lodians travelling with Catlin have 
 lately much interested me, and I attempted to bring the 
 gospel before them. To do this was difficult, as I was 
 obliged to communicate through a black interpreter who was 
 a professed Koman Catholic.' 
 
 "To aid his old friends in Canada, he had taken active 
 measures, before leaving the colony, towards building a small 
 church in his neighbourhood ; and, on their return to England, 
 his sister and he succeeded in raising a considerable sum of 
 money for the purpose. This he transmitted to Canada, and 
 intrusted to Mr Jukes. 
 
 " It has rarely happened in my experience that either a 
 
150 THE STUDENT. 
 
 marriage has been contracted, or a church built, or a clergy- 
 man appointed, without at least one dispute. The little 
 church, which your brother and his friend wished to raise, 
 was no exception to this general law of life and manners. 
 A letter, now in my possession, written by Mr Jukes to your 
 brother, describes the struggles which grew out of the 
 various and conflicting opinions engendered by the occasion. 
 These, however, did not, as is sometimes the case, do perma- 
 nent damage; but the settlers, like wise and good men, 
 adjusted 'all their differences. The church was erected, and 
 when I last heard of it, the inhabitants had the advantage of 
 a clergyman's ministrations. 
 
 " As the time approached for his final university examina- 
 tion, he naturally felt the high responsibility of the office to 
 which his degree would be a most important step. His 
 future post, too, in the vineyard of Christ, was the occasion 
 of some anxiety. 
 
 " I shall conclude this letter with some extracts descriptive 
 of his feelings and expectations : 
 
 " ' TRINITY COLLEGE, July 21, 1846. 
 
 " ' MY DEAE , Many thanks for your kindness in 
 
 writing to Mr Forrester* on my behalf, which I ought to 
 have acknowledged before. I am meditating a journey into 
 Yorkshire, for the purpose of seeing Mr Cheap of Knares- 
 
 * The Hon. and Rev. Orlando W. D. Forrester, Rector of Brosely, Salop ; 
 a name which recalls to me many happy days passed with him and Mrs 
 Forrester when I held his curacy ; a name which represents to me the 
 embodiment of an English gentleman, and true minister of Christ, endowed 
 with delicacy of feeling, manliness of spirit, and tenderness of heart and 
 manner. 
 
THE STUDENT. 151 
 
 borough, who wants a curate. He is described as a faithful 
 servant of the Lord, and one with whom it would be a 
 privilege to labour. He has been spoken to about me, and 
 wishes for an interview. I feel something like hesitation 
 now that the crisis is coming ; one's knowledge and attain- 
 ments seem so utterly inadequate for so great a work ; and 
 then, too, there is so much that it would be desirable pre- 
 viously to read and digest. How little knowledge have I 
 acquired of the Word of God during the (nearly) four years 
 that I have been at college. When you first came to the 
 Lake shore, I should have been very much offended had any 
 one told me that I knew nothing of Scripture ; which was, 
 however, the fact ; nevertheless, I feel my ignorance now 
 far more than I did then. However, I trust there is one 
 thing I know that Jesus is my Saviour ; and not mine 
 only, but the Saviour of all who believe in Him. May God 
 enable me to bear faithful witness to that great truth ! ' 
 
 "'August 17, '46. 
 
 " ' MY DEAR , When I left Canada I did not think 
 
 it would have been so long before I should have been en- 
 gaged in the work, but now I feel, in many respects, as un- 
 qualified as the day I entered college. Indeed, to some 
 extent, more ; for that love of souls I once had seems to 
 have cooled most distressingly. Unless I am deceived as to 
 my feelings at leaving my farm, I had then something like 
 a zeal for forsaking all for Christ ; but now there is too 
 much complacency in contemplating the comforts which 
 abound in this country. 
 
 " ' I feel very much indebted to Mr Forrester for his kind 
 
152 THE STUDENT. 
 
 intentions. In many respects the time he mentions would 
 have suited me better, but, nevertheless, if nothing prevent my 
 going to Knaresborough, I shall feel that it is the Lord's 
 doing. I expect to be ordained by the Bishop of Eipon at 
 Eipon. The ordination will be most probably on the 27th 
 of September, but I have not official information of that 
 until I write to the secretary with my papers. Should the 
 way be opened for you to be there, your presence would be 
 a great pleasure to me.' 
 
 " ' September 10, 1846. 
 
 " ' MY DEAE , Last night I received an intimation 
 
 to attend at Kipon for examination for Holy Orders on 
 Wednesday the 16th inst., and I fear the notice is too short to 
 admit of your putting into effect the plan you proposed. At 
 the same time I trust that, as you occasionally visit England, 
 I may hope to see you at Knaresborough. 
 
 " ' The ordination takes place a week earlier than I had 
 expected, and, indeed, the whole thing has come upon me 
 with something of the suddenness of surprise. I feel as if 
 I know nothing ; and am still worse prepared for the duties 
 of the pulpit than for the examination. But I look to the 
 Lord to help me, and trust that I have not been tempting 
 Providence by too hastily undertaking so much. You will 
 not forget me at the throne of grace. 
 
 " ' Oh that I may be enabled to count all things but loss 
 for Jesus ! The world has been a great snare to me of late ; 
 many things have gone well with me. I have made some 
 kind friends who, in worldly language, "may be useful to 
 
THE STUDENT. 153 
 
 me." I think I know something of those conflicts that 
 poor Bunyan describes. The Bishop gave me some works 
 to read which have tried me much, especially Bishop Bethel 
 on Eegeneration. I am very far from being as well prepared 
 for the examination as I should be/ " 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 re Citrate. 
 
 " Within His holy temple Christ, unseen, 
 
 Celestial words hath said ; 
 And His invisible hands to-day have been 
 Laid on His servant's head. 
 
 " And evermore beside him on hie way 
 
 The unseen Christ shall move ; 
 That he may lean upon His arm, and say, 
 'Dost Thou, dear Lord, approve?' 
 
 u Oh, holy trust ! Oh, endless sense of rest! 
 
 Like the beloved John, 
 To lay his head upon the Saviour's breast, 
 And thus to journey on ! " 
 
 " Go forth, it might be said to one who had undertaken to win souls 
 for Christ, and preach the whole truth without distrust. You may not 
 see how the news that Jesus died and suffered is to enter into and vehe- 
 mently move the souls you try to instruct ; but for wellnigh two thousand 
 years has the cross of Christ been lifted up, and been drawing all men 
 unto it. In every congregation, though the attrition of custom seems to 
 have rounded all men into the same outward manner, almost like the 
 twinned pebbles in the brook, there are many secret influences at work, 
 and for each does the news of Christ provide some food or medicine. 
 There is the yearning of affection, and the heartache of baffled hope; 
 the irritation of sickness, the decay of manly strength the fear of the end. 
 Beware of ministering to these various ailments with an empiric's arbi- 
 trary hand : dispense fairly what the great Physician of souls has intrusted 
 
 to you Into your hands, as His minister, has Christ intrusted the 
 
 vials of His consolations; go, and pour them out for each. Tell them 
 what shall make life at present real and true. Bid them know that their 
 Redeemer liveth; tell them that One Who is the Resurrection and the 
 Life compasses them about already with the cords of His sympathy, and 
 will never forsake them ; and you will wonder at the tenacious grasp with 
 which they will embrace the cross who have no other hope." Thompson's 
 Bampton Lectures. 
 
"Ripon, September 19Z/&, 1846. Have been here since the 
 16th for examination for orders. The examination lasted 
 three days, six hours a-day. The questions were such as men 
 ought to have known. My papers were said to be in general 
 satisfactory, some particularly so. 
 
 " A very important season, but men's minds not so solemn 
 as they ought to be. I fear there is much of a spirit of high 
 churchism among the candidates. Twenty for priest's orders, 
 nine for deacon's. 
 
 " Three Dublin men in the house with me. We have had, 
 I trust, some profitable conversation, but our mutual sins 
 have led us into much light talking. 
 
 " This is probably the last time I shall make any notes as 
 a layman. Oh, may the Lord be with me ! 
 
 " 21st. Knaresborough. Yesterday, through God's grace, 
 I was admitted to the order of Deacon, in Eipon Cathedral. 
 Felt much the solemnity and importance of the rite. The 
 bulk of the people left before the commencement of the 
 ordination service. To-day, I came to Knaresborough, my 
 first cure. 
 
 " 26/t. To-morrow, God willing, I am to preach for the 
 first time. I have written on Col. iv. 3, 4, and I trust the 
 
158 THE CUEATE. 
 
 Lord has enabled me to say something to the purpose. I 
 am to lecture at Low Bridge. I have been thinking of 
 2 Cor. v. 18, 19, for the service. I have felt much the 
 mercy of God in bringing me thus far on my way. Oh that 
 I may be kept steadfast in the faith ! I have had a singular 
 manifestation of the Lord lately. The presence of Jesus ap- 
 peared to me as a kind of dimly-shadowed vision a figure 
 of Christ hanging on the cross. I could not see His face. 
 I had a pleasing interview with Mr Cheap to-day. 
 
 " 2Sth. Yesterday I preached in the church in the after- 
 noon. I felt low and nervous during the morning service, 
 but was relieved by the singing. Very weak during the 
 afternoon. On getting into the pulpit, I could only ask help 
 of the Lord. I read the collect for Third Sunday in Advent, 
 with the Lord's Prayer, and was enabled to get on very com- 
 fortably. Evening, lecture at Low Bridge ; I felt partly 
 confident, partly weak; prayed for help, and received it. 
 Spoke with freedom, and, I trust, in some degree to the 
 point, for three-quarters of an hour too long, but the poor 
 people seemed attentive. May the Lord keep me humble, 
 and waiting upon Him. May I be made useful to souls in 
 this place. 
 
 " October 25th. Left for Dublin September 29th, and for 
 nearly three weeks read very hard for degree examination. 
 Eead prayers each Sunday in one church or another, and 
 preached last Sunday at St Luke's, from 2 Pet. i. 12. 
 
 " I9th and 20th. Passed degree examination. Friends to 
 breakfast both mornings ; out in evening. Scarcely a mo- 
 ment to myself on any of these days; no reading of the 
 Word ; suffered much in consequence. 
 
THE CUKATE. 159 
 
 "23d This evening, I left for Knaresborough, and 
 reached it the following day. I am too anxious that people 
 should think well of me. To-night, at Low Bridge, Eph. 
 v. 14 ; I had not proper time to study the subject ; my soul 
 was lean and poor, so was my discourse. The want of re- 
 tirement for the work, I am sure, injured me, and I was 
 confused and lengthy in my remarks/' 
 
 The following extract is from a letter written to Mr Gribble 
 just at this time, narrating his feelings on the occasion of his 
 ordination and, first sermon : 
 
 " KNARESBOKOUQH, September 28, 1846, 
 
 " MY DEAR , Your kind and valuable letter, written 
 
 on the day on which I was admitted by man's ordinance into 
 the ministerial office, reached me in good time. May He 
 who alone can keep me steadfast, enable me, in my future 
 course, to follow the counsel which you give me. 
 
 " My heart seems now to overflow with thankfulness to the 
 Lord for having brought me thus far, and for the measure of 
 peace and joy He has vouchsafed me. I know that if my life 
 is spared, I shall have trials and troubles in the ministry, from 
 myself and from the enemy. But now I rejoice in the Lord. 
 Yesterday, I was permitted to preach my first (a written) ser- 
 mon, from Col. iv. 3, 4. I trust the Lord helped my feeble 
 effort to say something to the point. My dear sister L 
 who was present, desires me to say that she was pleased with 
 it ; but a sister s judgment must be taken cum grano salis. 
 In the evening, I spoke to a small assembly of poor people 
 in a lecture-room in another place, from 2 Cor. v. 18, 
 
160 THE CUKATE. 
 
 and felt much freedom in addressing them : indeed, 1 was 
 too long three-quarters of an hour ; but the subject, and, 
 perhaps, a little animal excitement, carried me away. To- 
 morrow, D. V., I set off for Dublin, to remain in college 
 until the 20th of October, to pass my degree examination." 
 
 But to resume the diary : 
 
 "During the week, I have been engaged in visiting some 
 of the poor and sick people. I felt it, at first, very depressing 
 and deadening to my soul ; the continual going from house 
 to house, and reading and praying, seems to tempt to formal 
 discharge of essentially spiritual duties. Two or three indi- 
 viduals whom I saw, seemed to know the Lord. I was much 
 pleased with one old woman, for many years bedridden. There 
 seems a good deal of deadness among the people, joined to a 
 theoretical knowledge of the gospel. 
 
 "November 8th. . . . . Intend, God willing, to get at 
 every house throughout the Low Bridge district. I do not 
 advance as I could wish in extempore preaching, but I hope 
 to improve ; if I were very successful, I should doubtless be 
 puffed up. Attended Sunday school ; children very noisy ; 
 system of learning aloud inimical to order. Feel much 
 thankfulness to the Lord for His mercies to me. A good 
 deal of encouragement among the people ; some of those who 
 attend regularly at Low Bridge seem glad when I go into 
 their houses. 
 
 "Sunday evening, November 15th Preached on Eom. 
 iii. 28 justification. Much tried in writing my sermon; too 
 much matter for forty minutes' discussion ; cannot get a free, 
 
THE CUE ATE. 161 
 
 easy style of writing. I trust the Lord enabled me to speak 
 
 the truth. Mr C said, on my coming into the vestry, 
 
 'It is all truth and it is well to speak God's truth boldly ;' 
 but he gave me the impression that he thought I had been, 
 if anything, too bold. 
 
 "Evening, Low Bridge. Luke xix. 10. Did not get on 
 well ; did not dwell enough upon the love of God to that 
 which was lost. However, I trust that the Lord, Whose aid 
 I seek, and Whose gospel I trust I teach, did not leave me 
 altogether without some profitable words. 
 
 " Continued visiting this week ; much indifference ; many 
 complain of the want of clothes. On Wednesday I visited 
 several who attend at Low Bridge, and I trust that some of 
 them were people that knew the Lord. I find that I must 
 take more time to prepare my lectures ; want of preparation, 
 especially not knowing my texts, has hindered me very much. 
 To-day I raise a new Ebenezer of thankfulness and praise to 
 God. I am still a sinner, tempted even with unbelief. I 
 always feel most depressed on commencing and writing my 
 sermons, and thankful when they are done. 
 
 " November 23d Yesterday was my birthday. I desire 
 to record the Lord's mercies to me. I never remember be- 
 fore finding pleasure in the recollection of this day. After 
 my return from my lecture at the Low Bridge, I recollected 
 the anniversary. My sermon had been a bad one, and I 
 had not said what I intended, and was returning home much 
 depressed, but, remembering the day of the month and my 
 own relation to it, I felt much the Lord's mercies to me in 
 having spared the life which He had given, and placed me 
 in the ministry. What an infinite honour to be of the same 
 
162 THE CUKATE. 
 
 calling as St Paul ; to have intrusted to me, as the business 
 of my life, the setting forth the unsearchable riches of 
 Christ ! Most infirm have been my services and most inade- 
 quate my teaching ; yet this, to some extent, I have been 
 enabled to do. I trust I have borne witness for Christ, 
 and that the Lord will open my mouth to make known His 
 truth. I am tempted to feel unhappy when I read how 
 much others have done, while I can accomplish so little. We 
 must be satisfied with the success the Lord provides/' 
 
 The diary kept during this time is principally a record of 
 his sermons, which he criticised with much severity, anxiously 
 endeavouring to preach faithfully and practically, and never 
 sparing himself if he could detect any neglect in their prepa- 
 ration. He always wrote his sermons for the parish church, 
 and preached extempore at the lecture held in a chapel 
 in the poorest district of Knaresborough, near the Low 
 Bridge. It was amongst the poor people there that he 
 worked more particularly, and in these lectures he took 
 especial interest. 
 
 We find also several reflections on the doctrine of election, 
 which pressed upon his mind at this time in no slight de- 
 gree. His views at this period bear out a previous reference 
 to hyper-Calvinistic opinions. The experience and teaching, 
 however, of after years sufficed to modify them. 
 
 Mr Bowen of Milton was now in declining health, and 
 evidently clung much to his nephew, with whose progress 
 through life he had associated himself with invariable interest. 
 In the course of this year we find the following entry : 
 
THE CUEATE. 163 
 
 :: Milton, August 18, 1847. I left Knaresborough on 
 
 Saturday week, in consequence of a letter from Uncle B . 
 
 I spent Sunday the 8th in Gloucester, and attended the ser- 
 vice in St Mary Crypt. In the afternoon, I preached under 
 the Bethel flag, on board a small brig in the dock, to about a 
 dozen sailors. On Monday last, I reached this place. My 
 uncle was better ; he has been worse since, but is likely, I 
 think, to last some time. Alas ! I have not had courage to 
 speak to him about his soul I preached to-day at Carew. 
 I read my sermon very badly. In the evening, I spoke from 
 Rom. xii 1, to a congregation in the lecture-room. My heart 
 smote me that I was exhorting them, but could not deal 
 faithfully with my poor uncle ; he talks as if he were pre- 
 pared to die, but he is not upon the foundation, and cannot 
 bear to be told so. Oh, may God give me strength, and open 
 the way for me to speak to him ! 
 
 "September I2th. I have again returned to Knares- 
 borough. I was enabled to have some conversation with 
 my uncle before leaving, but not such as I could wish ; his 
 kindness embarrasses me. I have not been as honest as I 
 ought to have been. He is now much better. May God 
 give me grace yet to write to him as I ought to do S I fancy 
 that I dread more the disturbance and trouble from my say- 
 ing anything that might offend him, rather than any conse- 
 quence that might occur concerning the disposal of his 
 property, which I know is much in my favour. This is 
 a great snare to me. Oh, how my heart runs after this 
 world ! 
 
 " This is probably the last Sunday of my diaconate, if I 
 pass the examination for priest's orders this week. This I 
 
164 THE CURATE. 
 
 hope to do, though I have not been able to accomplish much 
 reading. 
 
 "October %d. On the 19th September. I was ordained 
 
 priest by the Bishop of Ripon. I parsed the examination 
 
 with comfort, for which I have reason to be thankful I fear 
 
 that during the examination I was not sufficiently candid in 
 
 _ the chaplain know my opinions. I returned evasive 
 
 rs to some questions on baptism, a subject on which I 
 
 differed from him, and in the viva voce allowed Mr D to 
 
 state what I believed to be false doctrine, without expressing 
 my dissent. I was desirous of avoiding controversy." 
 
 The letter he had determined to write to his uncle, was 
 sent a short time after his return from Ripon. He plainly 
 and earnestly, yet with the utmost delicacy and tenderness, 
 expounded the way of salvation, being most anxious to repay 
 Mr Bowen's kindness by setting before him the true riches 
 of Christ, and to be faithful to his soul and his own con- 
 science. At the same time, he was fully aware that the pos- 
 sible result of his letter might be to induce his uncle to 
 change his will, which he already knew was in his own 
 favour. Moreover, he was much tried between the conflicting 
 duties which he owed to his uncle and his curacy. On this 
 point he writes as follows : 
 
 " I have now a peculiar trial presented to me. My uncle 
 
 wishes me to go and take the management of his affairs. He 
 
 y ill, and probably will not continue many months, and 
 
 there is no one he can so well ask, or has so great a claim 
 
 upon, as myself. On the other hand, I have a sphere of use- 
 
THE CrKATK. ] 65 
 
 fulness here which it does not seem right to relinquish. Which 
 is the paramount duty ? If to leave this were to give up my 
 ministry, my course is clear to decline ; but though for a 
 time I may relinquish the cure of souls, it does not appear to 
 me that I abandon altogether the duties to which I have been 
 called. Many opportunities will be given me of preaching 
 the word, and I shall have abundant time for retirement and 
 thought On the other hand, I shall be exposed to much 
 temptation to shrink from confessing Christ, while my worldly 
 interest may bias my judgment I owe a duty to my 
 uncle ; does that interfere with my duty to the Church of 
 Christ ? This last is not necessarily confined to my congre- 
 gation here. I should be sorry to leave them, but my 
 ministry is not successful, more I fear from the want of the 
 Spirit, than from the want of setting forth the truth. 
 I am miserably deficient in clear and full statement or 
 illustration ; were I more with God, more in the Spirit, God 
 could well make up for every other def 
 
 " I do pray that in the decision before me, I may do what 
 
 I ought to do, and be enabled to discover and pursue the 
 
 path of duty. My present feeling is, that I ought not to 
 
 my curacy, but to go to my uncle if I can get any 
 
 one to take the duty for a time." 
 
 He was not content with weighing the matter thus care- 
 fully in his own mind, but consulted his old Canada friend 
 and father in Christ, Mr Gribble, so fearful was he L 
 should be biassed by any view to his own interest : 
 
 "October IQth Much conflict in mind during the last 
 
166 THE CUE ATE. 
 
 few days. Sorry to leave my people here, yet anxious not 
 to offend my uncle. Towards the close of the week I felt 
 considerable elevation of spirits, leaving my matters in the 
 Lord's hands, and perhaps thinking I could so manage the 
 affair as not to neglect my duty in either case. 
 
 " I wrote to my uncle, telling him I should be with him 
 in a fortnight. In the meantime I received a very angry 
 letter from him, in which he threatened to change his will, 
 because (I suppose) I did not throw up my curacy, and come 
 down at once. This troubles and puzzles me, but still I 
 trust that I am more anxious to do my duty than to gain 
 his estate. I found much comfort in my text of this day, 
 'Rejoicing in hope; patient in tribulation; continuing in- 
 stant in prayer/ (Rom. xii. 12.) May the Lord enable me 
 to set my affections on things above ! 
 
 "Milton House, October 2^th (Sunday). I received a 
 letter from one of the servants here on the 13th, containing 
 an urgent request from my uncle that I would go down 
 immediately. I set off on the 18th. On board the steamer 
 I heard of my uncle's death. I truly grieve for him. I 
 have received great kindness from him, in addition to the 
 bequest of his estate. Worldly things then came into my 
 mind ; I felt that it was most likely that he had not changed 
 his will, but as far as I know myself, I was willing to go 
 back to my curacy instead of being in the place I now am. 
 
 "All seem to rejoice in the will that has been made. At 
 the very last he spoke of a trust in Christ. It is my earnest 
 prayer that God will give me grace to serve Him in the 
 position in which I am now placed. I intend commencing 
 family prayer with the household this evening." 
 
THE CTJKATE. 167 
 
 After his return to Knaresborough, he writes : 
 
 "December 5th. I came here last week, November 14th, and 
 
 preached for Mr G at the Seamen's Chapel, Whitechapel* 
 
 Many sailors present, some coloured men amongst them. I felt 
 much for them, and bore testimony to the blessing I had 
 
 found in Mr G 's ministry. I have preached two bad 
 
 sermons to-day. I am suffering in my own soul from being 
 so much immersed in worldly matters. I am very thankful 
 to get back to my work, and trust the Lord will smooth all 
 things for me, and permit my worldly business to be so 
 arranged as not to break in too much upon the time and 
 thought that should be given to my higher work. I have 
 need to be more earnest in my ministry to make souls my 
 one object not to be afraid of introducing spiritual topics 
 into conversation. We must not succumb too much to the 
 feelings of the world, nor be afraid of frightening them. 
 Lord, quicken me for Thy work ! 
 
 " December 1 ih. Still have I to lament my own sinful 
 ness, and coldness in my work. I waste so much time in 
 bed, and in reverie ; I do not make it sufficiently my rule to 
 know nothing amongst my people but Jesus Christ, and Him 
 crucified Alas ! how can I, seeing I know not how ? The 
 Lord teach me ! May Christ be ever uppermost in my mind 
 and words ! I feel greatly the want of some one to lead me 
 on in my ministry. 
 
 " April 30th. My heart is filled with gratitude, though 
 
 * He had come through London for the purpose of bringing his mother 
 with him for medical advice, the first-fruits of what his increased means 
 enabled him to do. 
 
168 THE CURATE. 
 
 this morning, before preaching, I had some very painful 
 doubts of the gospel I have embraced. Yet I trust I shall 
 hold fast the truth already attained, and at the same time 
 preserve that openness to conviction that so well becomes 
 our frail and fallible nature." 
 
 Notwithstanding his new position, Mr Bowen continued 
 unremitting in his work, remaining as under-curate, and re- 
 turning his salary to the Pastoral Aid Society, by whom it had 
 been paid. 
 
 In the month of August 1848, it pleased the Lord to re- 
 move his mother to whom he had owed so much. She died 
 after a long illness, in which much suffering had been borne 
 with great fortitude and submission. Her death made him 
 feel more at liberty to leave England, and the year of mis- 
 sionary jubilee inspired him with an earnest desire to dedicate 
 himself to foreign work. This idea had been present to his 
 mind ever since he had determined on entering the ministry, 
 and he first expressed his wish on this head to the Rev. E. 
 Bicker steth at the jubilee meeting at York. Shortly after- 
 wards he applied to the Church Missionary Society in the 
 following letter : 
 
 " TO THE EEV. H. VENN. 
 
 " KNARESBOKOUGH, November 20, 1848. 
 
 " KEV. SIB, At the suggestion of the Kev. E. Bickersteth, 
 I take the liberty of addressing you on a subject that has 
 been for some time on my mind, and I am assured that your 
 Christian kindness will excuse my troubling you, while your 
 
THE CTJEATE. 169 
 
 judgment, and general knowledge of the missionary work, 
 will very materially assist me in making a decision on what 
 may be, to myself at least, an important step. 
 
 " It has occurred to me that I might very usefully spend 
 a few years in taking an extended journey, visiting mis- 
 sionary stations, the hitherto unbroken fields for missionary 
 labour, the trading stations frequented by British ships, and 
 some of our Colonial dependencies. My object is of a two- 
 fold character 1st, To preach the gospel whenever oppor- 
 tunity offers, to sailors and settlers; 2d, To acquire infor- 
 mation, by actual observation, of the state of the heathen, 
 and of the wanderers from our own land, to visit Christian 
 brethren in different parts, and to observe the workings of 
 the various systems under which Christianity is presented to 
 the heathen. 
 
 " My plan is, however, undefined. I write to ask advice, 
 and whether the managers of the Church Missionary Society 
 would countenance and, as far as may be, forward such a 
 design. 
 
 " I feel there are many things to be considered : my own 
 fitness usefully to carry out such an undertaking, and the 
 propriety of relinquishing a sphere of usefulness here for 
 such an expedition. 
 
 "The probable expense of the excursion I should wish 
 also to ascertain ; I should not like to exceed the sum of 
 500 or 600 per annum ; but, if requisite, could afford 
 200 or 300 more, provided the object seemed commen- 
 surate. 
 
 "It may be as well to mention, that I am thirty-three 
 years of age, and have been in orders little more than two 
 
170 THE CUEATE. 
 
 years. It may be asked, why I do not undertake definite 
 missionary work ; should that appear to be the Lord's will, 
 I trust He will enable me to do it ; but I have, or think I 
 have, duties which may require me at home for the sake of 
 others, and I have thought that such a course as that 
 indicated, might be made, with Divine blessing, more imme- 
 diately useful. 
 
 "It is a matter in which the Lord's guidance must be 
 sought. It may be an idle fancy it may be a direction of 
 Providence ; but since the means have been placed at my 
 disposal, I have not been able to dismiss the matter from my 
 mind, without making some inquiries on the subject. 
 
 "If you will kindly tell me what you think of the 
 proposal, and how it would be viewed by the managers of 
 the Church Mission Society, you would confer a favour on, 
 dear sir, yours respectfully in Christ, 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 The plan of so extended a missionary journey was too 
 large to be carried out by one man; but the committee 
 thankfully accepted the liberal offer, and sketched a route, 
 which, though less extensive, embraced the most interesting 
 countries in the world's history. 
 
 Communications had been received through the Foreign 
 Office, to the effect that there was a decided opening for 
 missionary effort amongst the Druses, and that the native 
 Christians at Mosul were desirous of Protestant Bible teach- 
 ing. There was a stirring, too, in other parts of Syria, and a 
 j ourney of inquiry into those districts was decided on by the 
 
THE CURATE. 171 
 
 secretaries of the Society, who thus expressed themselves in 
 their directions to Mr Bowen : 
 
 " Amongst the multitudes who have the means of visiting 
 foreign countries for the sake of intellectual improvement, 
 health, or pleasure, you are the first to enter on a new line, 
 and to propose yourself to our Society as a missionary tra- 
 veller to any part of the world, in furtherance of our Chris- 
 tian objects. Though bearing your own charges, you have 
 desired to put yourself under the direction of the committee 
 of the Church Missionary Society, in the hope that your plans 
 may be laid out with the more wisdom and intelligence, 
 and your labours rendered more effectual, by their connexion 
 with one established system." 
 
 Mr Bowen was directed first to proceed to Jerusalem ; 
 there to confer with Bishop Gobat, and to visit the mis- 
 sionary stations at Syria, Smyrna, and Cairo. He was also to 
 visit Mount Lebanon, Nablous, and other places in Syria, 
 and thence to proceed to Mosul by Constantinople, and Trebi- 
 zond, returning by Bagdad and Damascus to Jerusalem. 
 
 It was not without great sorrow that he decided on leav- 
 ing his flock at Knaresborough. His journal contains the 
 following allusion to the separation : 
 
 "January 7th, 1849 (Sunday.) How far short have I 
 come of my resolutions of last January! To-day I have 
 preached my last sermon. How much have I left undone ! 
 
172 THE CUEATE. 
 
 The kindness of the people quite overcomes me. I would I 
 had done more for them ! 
 
 "It seems strange to have ceased preaching for a time. 
 May the Lord make the employment that is before me, pro- 
 fitable to my own soul ! " 
 
 The parting between a true Christian minister and his 
 flock is ever affecting, recalling more or less that touching 
 scene of separation that has hallowed for ever in the Church's 
 history, the sad sea-shore of Miletus. Personal recollections, 
 and associations of the tenderest nature, crowd up together. 
 To one, he has become dear as the spiritual counsellor in 
 an hour of conflict and distress ; to another, as the com- 
 forter by the death-bed of the nearest and dearest. Should 
 the connexion have been one of long duration, the ties to be 
 severed are stronger still, as those advance with their fare- 
 wells who are just entering manhood or womanhood, whose 
 infancy his ministry consecrated, and whose confirmation 
 vows were registered in his presence. 
 
 True, Mr Bowen's had been only a two years' service at 
 Knaresborough. Yet this period sufficed to endear him to 
 many there. His departure was deeply regretted, especially 
 by his revered incumbent. 
 
 The letters addressed to him on this occasion from all 
 classes are very interesting. Some thank him for having 
 brought them to a knowledge of the truth. A Unitarian 
 writes to tell him how he had valued his preaching, and how 
 he regretted not having heard his last sermon. The poor 
 addressed him most affectionately, and their letters prove 
 that though he had so often blamed himself for neglecting 
 
THE CURATE. 173 
 
 house-to-house visiting, they felt that in that point he had 
 been especially diligent. A handsome testimonial was pre- 
 sented to him, consisting of a gold pocket-Communion-Ser- 
 vice and a large Arabic Dictionary. 
 
 Mr Cheap ever remembered him with much attachment, 
 and the following graceful and generous testimony to his 
 curate's work at Knaresborough is from the pen of his niece 
 the daughter of the well-known and devoted Mrs Stevens : 
 
 " All agree in speaking of Mr Bowen as most devoted to 
 his work, diligently visiting the sick and such as desired 
 spiritual instruction, welcomed wherever he went as one who 
 had at heart both their spiritual and temporal welfare, 
 entering with sympathy into all their little concerns, and, 
 with untiring energy, carrying out any plan for their good. 
 His cottage lectures were much valued ; he set on foot an 
 evening school for the improvement of young men, many of 
 whom speak of him with great affection. He also instituted 
 a reading society, which has ever since been carried on with 
 much pleasure and profit to its members. But all he did 
 was done quietly ; he never alluded to his work, or brought 
 it into notice it was felt rather than spoken of. This makes 
 it very difficult to give any account of it. I can truly say 
 he was all that a Christian minister ought to be ; and his 
 memory is cherished here with the warmest affection. You 
 know how he was loved and valued by my uncle, both per- 
 sonally and ministerially ; indeed they were in every respect 
 truly congenial, and when he was, in the order of Providence, 
 called from his place, my uncle deeply felt his loss. It was 
 remarkable how often he used to say, 'You will see dear Bowen 
 
1 74 THE CUKATE. 
 
 is sure to be a Bishop/ How little did he contemplate the 
 scene of labour to which he was destined, the palm of vic- 
 tory so quickly won ! I have often heard him, after a little 
 silence exclaim, as if he had been meditating on the events 
 which had separated them, ' Dear Bowen ! ' I do not think 
 he ever mentioned him without the ' dear ' prefixed." 
 
 Thus terminated his earliest parochial labours. Before 
 him lay the vigorous demands of an important and arduous 
 enterprise. It is hoped that the Christian reader will trace 
 his footsteps over the consecrated regions of the East with 
 profitable delight, and gather many a sweet and solemn 
 lesson in wandering at his side through those lands of fade- 
 less interest, whose sublime associations are embalmed for 
 ever in the Church's grateful memory. 
 
 Syria and Palestine made home-scenes to us by the chaste 
 and classical researches of the most observant and accom- 
 plished among modern travellers * names to be reverenced 
 and loved ! Here, as no idle tourist, but in earnest prosecu- 
 tion of his Master's work, he was to ascertain how missions 
 already undertaken were prospering, and, at the same time, 
 to search out, if possible, new fields of labour. 
 
 With Mr Gribble's touching and generous review of his 
 position, we will close this sunny page in his ministerial life : 
 
 " The backwoodsman had now exchanged one profession 
 for another. Some are of opinion that a change of pursuits 
 indicates an unsettled purpose, and that it is pre-eminently 
 requisite for a minister to have had his sacred calling in 
 
 * Eev. Canon Stanley. 
 
THE CURATE. 175 
 
 view from his earliest youth. This is, however, but a worth- 
 less prejudice, and should meet the fate so devoutly sighed 
 for in the ' Pilgrim's Progress/ where one who had been in- 
 formed that old Mr Prejudice had fallen and broken his 
 leg, exclaims, * I wish it had been his neck ! ' 
 
 "I do not apprehend that the Church of Christ has 
 suffered damage from the ministry of the apostles, yet not 
 one of them had been educated either for priesthood or 
 apostleship. Their training came with the experience which 
 succeeded their summons to follow Christ and preach the 
 gospel of the kingdom. 
 
 " The fact is, that Christ is a King, and as Sovereign of 
 the grandest of empires, He calls His servants where, when, 
 and in what manner He pleases ; and hence we see varieties 
 of cases constantly presenting themselves. Some men, who 
 from early years have been intended (as it is termed) for the 
 Church, enter its ministry, and are unconscious of any call 
 from the Holy Ghost, and of any adequate perception of the 
 real character of the office, until years have passed away. 
 Others receive at their ordination the first inward call to 
 serve the Lord Christ, simultaneously with that which com- 
 mands their public service. 
 
 " Your brother's ordination found him well prepared in this 
 prerequisite the consciousness of being called to the work. 
 And He who thus called him beyond all doubt endowed him 
 with the graces and powers as well as with the authority 
 which the Church, in its highest but most warrantable as- 
 sumption, supposes to be conferred in that holy service. 
 
 "As proof to some extent of the truth of this remark, I 
 send you a copy of his first sermon, which well deserves the 
 
176 THE CURATE. 
 
 attention of young ministers of the gospel. It is simple 
 and plain in style ; perspicuous, without being formal in its 
 arrangement ; and richly full of God's precious truth.* 
 
 "Blessed season of hallowed ordination! thrice blessed 
 service ! Oh for a revival in our souls of that deep, living, 
 mysterious, and unutterable enjoyment, when, after the soul 
 has been humbled under a sense of unutterable unworthi- 
 ness, and awed with the solemnity of the event, there suc- 
 ceeds to the long pause for silent prayer, and the glorious 
 hymn ' Veni, Creator ! ' the tranquilising assurance, ' Thou 
 shalt go to all that I shall send thee ; and whatsoever I com- 
 mand thee thou shalt speak ! ' 
 
 '"Spirit of light and truth ! to Thee 
 
 We trust them in that musing hour, 
 Till they, with open heart and free, 
 Teach all Thy word in all its power." ' Keble. 
 
 * See Appendix R 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 " Jerusalem, Jerusalem ! enthroned once on high ; 
 Thou favour'd home of God on earth, thou heaven below the sky ; 
 Now brought to bondage with thy sons, a pain and grief to see 
 Jerusalem, Jerusalem ! our tears shall flow for thee. 
 
 " Oh, hadst thou known thy day of grace, and flock'd beneath the wing 
 Of Him who call'd thee lovingly thine own anointed King 
 Then had the tribes of all the world gone up thy pomp to see, 
 And glory dwelt within thy gates, and all thy sons been free." 
 
 " Reft of thy sons, amid thy foes forlorn, 
 Mourn, widow'd queen ! forgotten Zion, mourn 1" 
 
 "Do good in Thy good pleasure to Zion, 
 Build Thou the walls of Jerusalem." 
 
 PSALM li. 18. 
 
AFTER leaving Knaresborough, Mr Bowen was not long in 
 completing his arrangements ; and we shall for a time be able 
 to give an account of his travels in the East, almost entirely 
 in his own words. It is to be regretted that (except in re- 
 cording the first period of his tour up to his arrival at 
 Smyrna of which a more digested record has been pre- 
 served) we shall be compelled to transcribe from his daily 
 notes a comparatively imperfect history of the expedition : 
 
 ''March 2d, 1849. The usual preparations for a journey 
 being completed, three friends kindly came to share my 
 morning meal, representatives, as it were, of those objects 
 to which the heart is most drawn under the circumstances 
 in which I was placed a brother, a pious and kind-hearted 
 member of my late congregation, and a valued minister of 
 the gospel, through whom, by some singular dispensation of 
 Providence, my own connexion with the Church had been 
 brought about. 
 
 " A parting prayer was offered, my companion and inter- 
 preter joined me, and driving through the crowded streets 
 of the great metropolis, we reached the railway station, where 
 my kind friends again met me. Another farewell, and we 
 
180 THE ENVOY. 
 
 were rapidly whirled away, and left to reflection. A sense 
 of weakness, insufficiency, and inability to effect any good in 
 the expedition before me, naturally came over my mind ; 
 and I recalled the remark of the Bishop of Jerusalem, who, 
 when setting out on his journey to Abyssinia, to use his own 
 expression, ' first confessed his sins.' 
 
 "The journey through Germany was passed with ease 
 and rapidity. Sunday was spent at Cologne ; the following 
 Saturday we reached Trieste. In this hasty transit, little 
 could be learned of the people and countries we saw ; yet 
 some of the peculiar features of the Continent, as contrasted 
 with our favoured island, could not fail forcibly to arrest 
 the notice of a stranger. The frequent demands for pass- 
 ports shewed the jealousy of governments the number of 
 military, their fears. The characteristics of the state of 
 religion were unmistakable. 
 
 " On the Sabbath, which the Lord of all commands to be 
 kept holy, the sad sacrificial show of the mass was early 
 seen ; solemn fetes of music attracted numbers to the great 
 churches ; the streets were thronged with pleasure-seekers ; 
 bands of music in the public places added their strains for 
 the general amusement ; the shops displayed their most 
 tempting contents, perhaps as much to bespeak a week-day 
 customer, as to traffic on that particular day. Yet there was 
 something going on besides revelry and amusement. Here 
 was a small church, crowded by an attentive congregation, 
 where an evangelical preacher unfolded with eloquent ear- 
 nestness the all-sufficiency of the Saviour. In a narrow street 
 in Cologne was found the dep6t of the British and Foreign 
 Bible Society, and many Bibles were being sold in the 
 
THE ENVOY. 181 
 
 neighbourhood. In Northern Germany other indications 
 proved that there were some who thought of better things. 
 Yet in addition to the tokens of a mistaken Christianity and 
 worldly religion, there were found traces of a still more 
 grievous pest. Occasionally a fellow-traveller did not hesi- 
 tate to avow himself an unbeliever in divine revelation ; 
 while even the professed deist declared himself shocked and 
 alarmed at the atheism that was boldly avowed by some of 
 the political associations of the day. 
 
 "In one capital the waiter pointed out the site of the 
 barricades, but lately the scene of a deadly struggle ; in an- 
 other, the houses shattered by artillery, the walls furrowed 
 by the bullets, told of the fierce contest between anarchy 
 and tyranny. Now the soldier and artisan mingled in the 
 crowd, while unconcerned groups, in gray uniforms and smart 
 dresses, engaged in cheerful converse, the excitement and 
 anxieties of business having superseded those sorrowful 
 events, which had, nevertheless, left their ineffaceable marks 
 on stone and wall. Their uniform could not disguise the 
 un military gait of the haggard-looking Croats, whose whole 
 appearance told of hasty levies and recent campaigns, while 
 on the road wagons full of wounded soldiers bore melan- 
 choly witness to the nearness of the wars still raging in 
 Lombardy and Hungary. 
 
 "A stay of two days in the fine commercial town of 
 Trieste enabled us to see a display of nationality. The 
 garrison a fine regiment of Austrian grenadiers, the newly- 
 embodied national guard, in their tasteful uniform, together 
 with a corps of more truly national Illyrian peasants, in their 
 striking costume were drawn out to celebrate the inaugura- 
 
182 THE ENVOY. 
 
 tion of the Austrian constitution, which, only a few months 
 later, became but a record of the futility of hopes based upon 
 the words and principles of men, without regard to that 
 Word which alone teaches mankind how to lay the founda- 
 tion of a real and rational liberty. 
 
 " At Trieste we had the privilege of attending the Eng- 
 lish service at the Consular Chapel, to which was added the 
 pleasure of making the acquaintance of the chaplain, the 
 Eev. B. Wright, who has followed his ministerial calling 
 in various parts of the Continent, and laboured earnestly 
 amongst Jew and Gentile. He informed us of some efforts 
 that were being made at that time to introduce the Bible 
 into Italy, which the political state of the country now, for 
 the first time for many centuries, rendered practicable. 
 
 " We had left London on the 2d March, in the evening ; 
 on the morning of the 13th we were steering down the 
 Adriatic in one of the fine steamers of the Austrian Lloyd 
 Steam Navigation Company, which afford very comfortable 
 conveyance to various parts of the Levant. With one 
 exception, the passengers were all foreigners, and chiefly 
 mercantile men ; several of them Jews. Some knew a little 
 English : they had visited England on business, and appeared 
 to have travelled much. A Christian should ever be anxious 
 to be about his Master's business ; we felt the duty of seek- 
 ing to bring the all-important topic of religion favourably 
 before our fellow-travellers. Opportunities speedily occurred, 
 and frequent instances convinced us that infidelity and in- 
 difference were the prevailing frames of mind. Some ridi- 
 culed religion in general, on account of the Popish form in 
 which they had learned it ; others talked of Nature being 
 
THE ENVOY. 183 
 
 their God, and of seeing God in all things, of the civil and 
 religious liberty recently established in Germany, as being 
 the Messianic reign. The present state of that country ought 
 to open the eyes of some of the rationalist Israelites to the 
 folly of their views. In the conversations on board the 
 steamer, and on other occasions, it appeared to us that the 
 objections and opinions of those who held sceptical opinions 
 on Scripture were very weak ; and some of our opponents 
 were sufficiently candid to acknowledge the force of very 
 simple answers to their arguments. 
 
 " There was a Bulgarian refugee on board, in whom we 
 were much interested. He was a man of talent, and had 
 been banished from his country for some expressions which 
 had occurred in the columns of a newspaper of which he 
 was the editor. He was now returning, and evidently desir- 
 ous of improving the state of his nation. He expressed a 
 great abhorrence of priestcraft, with a belief that there were 
 some excellences in the doctrines taught by Jesus Christ, 
 but had a very vague and imperfect idea of the nature of the 
 Teacher or His doctrine. This is a very common frame of 
 mind among men of strong common sense : they see the 
 corruption and puerility of the priesthood, but have never 
 been led to the fountain-head of truth, so as to ascertain the 
 difference between true and false Christianity. This man 
 seemed interested in some passages in the New Testament, 
 to which his attention was called. Though there is but little 
 hope that good may have been done in this desultory way, 
 there is at least some comfort to ourselves in the thought 
 that something has been said in a right direction. 
 
 " On the evening of the third day we cast anchor in the 
 
1 84 THE ENVOY. 
 
 peaceful bay of Corfu, and on the following morning had a 
 pleasant stroll on shore. Near the landing-place was a 
 pleasing melange of costume ; the gay but neat uniform of 
 the steady-looking English soldier was sprinkled amidst the 
 red caps and full trousers or kilts of the Greeks. It was 
 curious to see the characters which we had puzzled over in 
 Homer and the Greek Testament in our early days, written 
 over groceries and shops. The appearance of the island is 
 pleasing, picturesque, and apparently fertile; the buildings 
 in the town respectable, and the fortifications fine. 
 
 " Here I paid a visit to the military chaplain, who kindly 
 gave me a copy of ' Theophilus Anglicanus ' in modern Greek, 
 translated with the intention of shewing the Greeks some- 
 thing of the tenets of the Church of England. 
 
 " Accompanied by a few of our fellow-travellers, we visited 
 a Greek church when morning prayer was being performed. 
 A small doorway brought us to the entrance of the building ; 
 there was a descent of three or four steps to the floor. On 
 entering, we found ourselves in darkness, invaded only by a 
 few glimmering reddish lights on the top of tall candles on 
 taller candlesticks ; gradually we were enabled to discern a 
 few objects in the darkness visible. The lights were placed 
 before pictures of departed saints, with gilded dresses of 
 embossed metal placed over the figures, so that a hybrid 
 between a picture and image was produced. Neither the 
 gaudy dresses nor the dim lights could conceal the fact that 
 the art of Apelles exists no more in Greece. The service was 
 chanted in a very disagreeable tone ; the people, or some of 
 them, joining with the officiating priest. The altar is behind 
 a screen, extended quite across that end of the church ; it is 
 
THE ENVOY. 185 
 
 erected on a raised platform. There are generally three 
 openings ; one in the centre about the width of the altar, 
 which is usually small, and two narrow ones on either side. 
 These are closed with a rail, occasionally withdrawn during 
 the service. At one of them, which was open, appeared a 
 cross on an embroidered garment that covered the back of 
 the priest, who occasionally turned about, and addressed a 
 sentence to the people. Once the worshippers prostrated 
 themselves, and touched the pavement with their foreheads. 
 Subsequent experience has taught me that there is no devo- 
 tion in this. Like almost every part of their worship, (and 
 not of theirs only,) it is considered a meritorious act, designed 
 to purchase impunity for the sins of daily life. 
 
 " There were some American missionaries at Corfu. In- 
 clination, and the object of my journey, led me to call on the 
 only one then there. He received me with much cordiality. 
 I found that he was a Baptist, that he had been some time 
 in Greece, and had endeavoured, without much success, to 
 call the attention of the Greeks to the simplicity of that 
 gospel delivered by the apostles to the early churches. I 
 cannot help feeling that the peculiar views entertained by the 
 Baptists are a great hindrance to their operations amongst 
 the Greeks, or Orientals generally. 
 
 " The station at Corfu has since been abandoned. There 
 is here a very fine college, under an English principal, and 
 patronised by the Government, in which great facilities are 
 given for educating the natives. I had no opportunity of 
 visiting it. 
 
 " Leaving Corfu early in the afternoon, we passed Ithaca 
 in the distance ; and, rounding Cape Matapan, the extreme 
 
186 THE ENVOY. 
 
 point of the Peloponnesus, dashed into the Archipelago. 
 Strange did it seem to gaze on rocks and hills with the names 
 familiar to our boyish days, and which seemed to belong to 
 books more than to modern life. 
 
 " The evening closed in gloomily on the barren, wild-looking 
 hills of Greece. Darkness and distance shrouded from our 
 view the land of Lycurgus and Agamemnon. The morning 
 called us to other thoughts and happier reflections. The 
 chain cables rattling through the hawse-holes roused us to 
 consciousness. We were in the harbour of Syra. It was the 
 Sabbath-day. We had the pleasing prospect of uniting in 
 the services of an intelligible worship, and of visiting the 
 missions of our Church. At an early hour we were on shore, 
 as were several of the passengers. There were many vessels 
 in the harbour ; a few of them English ; some very fine- 
 looking Greek brigs. 
 
 " Syra is a small rocky island, containing a good harbour ; 
 and since the Greeks have been delivered from the oppression 
 of the Turks, a fine little trading town has grown up here. 
 Much ship-building is done, and considerable quantities of 
 merchandise are imported, and despatched by small vessels 
 throughout the islands, as well as to ports of the adjacent 
 continent. The town is prettily situated on one side of the 
 harbour, the sloping ground covered thickly with houses, 
 the greater number of which are flat-roofed, independently 
 built, and white-washed. That part called the lower town is 
 by far the largest, and extends some distance up the slope of 
 the hill ; and a small valley separates this from the upper 
 town, which is still higher, and the more ancient part. The 
 summit of this second hill is crowned by a Eoman Catholic 
 
THE ENVOY. 187 
 
 convent and church, which give a kind of finish to the 
 pyramidal appearance of the town as viewed from the har- 
 bour, whence it seems to rise, the intervening valley not 
 being perceived. On a subsequent visit, a melancholy 
 interest was added to this convent. The daughter of a for- 
 mer agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society had 
 recently apostatised from the religion of the Bible, and taken 
 the veil ; in which step, it was said, she was about to be 
 followed by her sister. 
 
 " We landed early ; numerous groups of well-dressed 
 people occupied the streets, or lounged about the wharf or 
 cafis. Their expression was intelligent, but, at the same 
 time, there was a look about them that gave you the idea 
 of a clever people, devoted to the pursuit of worldly amuse- 
 ment and gain. The streets were narrow and irregularly 
 paved with a roughish flat stone. I thought them, at the 
 time, dirty and bad ; on a second visit, more than two years 
 later, the town made a much more favourable impression. 
 This is, indeed, the case with the cities of the Levant gene- 
 rally; the opinion a traveller forms of them varies very 
 much according as he arrives from Europe, or from a town 
 in the interior of Asia. 
 
 " We soon found a lad to conduct us to the missionary's 
 house, which is in the upper part of the town. Mr Hildner, 
 the missionary, was at the school, and thither we followed 
 him. The superintendence of these schools is the chief oc- 
 cupation of the missionary at this station. They form a 
 tolerably large and very interesting establishment. The 
 work was undertaken before the war of independence, and 
 while Greece was groaning under Mohammedan despotism, 
 
188 THE ENVOY. 
 
 and the Greek ecclesiastics of that time gladly received the 
 aid of the English Church. The schools have been con- 
 tinued ever since with the sanction of the Bishop of Ther- 
 mopylae the town in Syra. The house in which they are 
 held is the property of the Church Missionary Society. The 
 lower story is appropriated to the boys, the upper to the 
 girls. The sloping nature of the ground admits of the 
 latter being gained by an entrance from the street, as well 
 as the former, and thus the two departments are quite 
 separate. There were several rooms. In the first we en- 
 tered, on the lower floor, there were about fifteen or eighteen 
 boys, averaging ten years of age. A young man in the 
 Greek costume was hearing them say a simple catechism 
 of Scripture history, composed by a Greek, whose ill- 
 requited toil for the benefit of his country shall presently 
 be mentioned. The teacher had a very good expression of 
 countenance, and the children seemed very intelligent, the 
 dress of many shewed that they belonged to the poorest 
 classes. In another room there were about forty boys re- 
 peating a more advanced catechism ; the questions were read 
 out by one of the lads, and the others answered promptly. 
 They were superintended by a teacher in Frank costume. 
 Round the room were hung many cards of reading lessons. 
 Passing hence to the girls' school, we found thirty assembled. 
 The mistress, a respectable native female, was assisted by two 
 younger dark-eyed Greek girls. The time for the concluding 
 lessons had arrived ; a portion of the Gospel was read, (I 
 believe it was the portion appointed for the day in the Greek 
 Church.) The missionary questioned the children, and ad- 
 dressed them at some length : after which a Greek hymn 
 
THE ENVOY. 189 
 
 was sung to an English tune, a prayer was read by one of 
 the pupils, and the school was dismissed. 
 
 " The missionary holds two services every Lord's Day : 
 one in the English language, which is attended by the Con- 
 sul's family, and frequently by some of the crews of British 
 merchantmen, of which there are generally two or three in 
 this port, and sometimes more ; and another in German, 
 for the benefit of German residents, who have resorted here 
 for purposes of trade. 
 
 "On the afternoon of this day, I visited some English 
 vessels which were in the harbour, left a few tracts, and 
 conversed with the commanders and men. Prom one of the 
 captains I heard an interesting anecdote, which shews how 
 good is sometimes done by British seamen in their wide 
 wanderings. My informant had for many years traded on 
 the western coast of South America, and was in the habit 
 of carrying with him copies of the Scriptures in the Spanish 
 language. On one occasion, calling at a small port, he met 
 on shore a Roman Catholic priest the cure 7 of a district 
 comprising some sixty miles of coast, occupied by a very 
 scattered population. The captain spoke of the Scriptures 
 in Spanish ; the cure 7 said, he had never seen a copy of the 
 Bible, and should very much like to have one. Most cheer- 
 fully the captain gave him the last he possessed, and the 
 priest received it with no less alacrity. Who knows but 
 that the mercy of the Lord may have made that book a 
 blessing to some souls ? 
 
 " On the following day we had an opportunity of taking 
 a hasty glance at the general state of education in the place. 
 
 " The Government of Greece has done much to promote 
 
190 THE ENVOY. 
 
 general education ; and, in the towns, the means of instruction 
 are abundant and cheap. In the establishment of an educa- 
 tional system, aid has been accepted from the British and 
 Foreign School Society, and most of the towns have what 
 is called a gymnasium, a sort of High School, where an effort 
 is made to give a superior education, including languages 
 and sciences. The common schools are arranged upon the 
 Lancasterian plans, and fitted up with fixed benches and 
 desks. Class-teaching and monitors are generally adopted. 
 Lesson-boards are hung on the walls for the beginners. 
 Catechisms of various kinds are introduced, and very cheap 
 editions and selections from the ancient Greek authors, 
 classics, and fathers, are published for the use of the higher 
 schools. To these may be added a great variety of smaller 
 catechisms, on geography, history, grammar, and Scripture- 
 history, all issued with the sanction of the Government. 
 Considerable attention is paid to the Hellenic, or original 
 language, and the more recent emanations from the Greek 
 press shew a tendency among educated men to return to- 
 wards the ancient diction of the Greeks. 
 
 " There were a great many girls in the schools at Syra, and 
 in the establishment of the C. M. S. considerable attention 
 is paid to this department. We saw in one class-room several 
 young females, very respectably dressed, who were conjugat- 
 ing the Greek verbs, according to the ancient language. In 
 another room, there were a number of cheerful, healthy- 
 looking infants, but many of them older than the children 
 usually found in infant schools in England. This depart- 
 ment is only taken up by the missionaries in Greece. 
 
 " On the week-days the attendance at the Mission School 
 
THE ENVOY, 191 
 
 was much more numerous than on the Sabbath. The Scrip- 
 tures are a daily lesson-book, and some of the pupils seem to 
 take an interest in the Bible, and give intelligent answers. In 
 the religious instruction given in this school, no controversial 
 matter is touched upon the positive truths and doctrines of 
 Christianity are alone inculcated. This principle has been 
 acted upon in all the English missions to the Levant ; the 
 pupils could not have been kept in the schools upon any 
 other condition.* The priests would soon have forbidden 
 any of their flock to attend a school where Protestant prin- 
 ciples were taught ; and this interdict would have been 
 effectual amongst an ignorant and superstitious people, 
 whose hopes and fears for eternity hang upon the words 
 of that order which claims the awful power of opening and 
 shutting the kingdom of heaven at its pleasure. The mis- 
 sionaries have always proceeded with great caution, but yet, 
 faithful to their calling, they have diligently inculcated the 
 doctrines of the gospel, which are in terms acknowledged, 
 but practically neglected, by those who teach in their place 
 the absurdities and corruptions of tradition. Instead of a 
 simple dependence upon Christ, and the necessity of a change 
 of heart, they place their hope upon ordinances and men, 
 dead or alive. Their worship is a round of theatrical cere- 
 monies ; the mind is burdened with a multitude of words, 
 in a language never used and not understood, which it is 
 thought useless, perhaps dangerous, to explain. 
 
 * In other words, no doctrine is treated in a controversial style. The 
 second commandment, for instance, which condemns picture-worship, is 
 carefully explained, but its application to what exists around is left to the 
 intelligence of the pupiL 
 
192 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " The zeal and forbearance of the Christian philanthropists, 
 who have given their alms and their labours in behalf of the 
 Greek Christians, have, as yet, met with but little reward, so 
 that some might be disposed to think that they have laboured 
 in vain. True it is, that evangelical lessons do not find a 
 very ready reception in the heart of any ; and multitudes of 
 young persons, who have listened to the Scripture expositions 
 of the missionary, easily imagine that there was some way of 
 reconciling the statements which convinced the understand- 
 ing, with the practices endeared by habit and prejudice. Yet 
 there have been some satisfactory results. A respect is pro- 
 fessed, at least, for the authority of Scripture by many of the 
 old pupils ; and some there are, who, cut off in early age, 
 seemed in a dying hour to rest only upon the pure and solid 
 comforts of the gospel. 
 
 " We saw several other schools. In one, partly supported 
 by Government, there were as many as two hundred girls, 
 arranged on the Lancasterian principle ; and in the boys' 
 department of the same institution there were about the 
 same number of pupils. All the teachers seemed to know 
 
 Mr H , who accompanied us, and received him with 
 
 much cordiality: some, I think most of them, had been 
 pupils of his schooL 
 
 "We were also introduced to a Greek gentleman, who 
 
 keeps a boarding-school of the better kind. Mr E had 
 
 received part of his own education in America, and spoke 
 the English language well. He fully admitted the superior 
 importance of the Scriptures in the training of the young, 
 
 and based his school upon that principle. Mr E was 
 
 evidently a warm lover of his country, and desirous of seeing 
 
THE ENVOY. 193 
 
 her revive in the scale of nations. He said he hoped the day 
 would come when Greece would have her Hannah Mores 
 and Wilberforces. 
 
 "Even in this short visit, we could not fail to see that 
 Greece is making many advances towards intellectual im- 
 provement ; and from observations made here, and subse- 
 quently elsewhere, it is evident that many individuals have 
 gone far towards an intellectual perception of the nature of 
 true Christianity ; while, on the other hand, many, detecting 
 the counterfeit Christianity of their Church, have imbibed 
 infidel sentiments, to which the more highly educated are 
 peculiarly exposed by the free introduction of French litera- 
 ture. 
 
 " The Greeks retain many of their ancient characteristics. 
 It was interesting to observe in the schools the dark intelli- 
 gent eyes and classic features of many of the pupils. They 
 are quick and lively, but very fond of luxury and pleasure. 
 Numbers of young men imitate, or even exceed, the niceties 
 of European dress. The native costume is very picturesque 
 and tasteful, and is still common, but not considered quite 
 genteel 
 
 "There are several newspapers published in modern 
 Greek, one of which is printed in Syra. It is not unusual to 
 see some of the popular novels of England and France in a 
 modern Greek dress, and published at a very cheap rate ; and 
 here, as elsewhere, this kind of literature finds the greatest 
 number of readers. There have not been wanting men of 
 talent and energy who have laboured to restore to their 
 country that knowledge without which all other attainments 
 are valueless. The labours of Professor Bampas, in con- 
 
 N 
 
194 THE ENVOY. 
 
 nexion with the British and Foreign Bible Society, are well 
 known to the Christians of England. By his assistance, a 
 very well-executed translation of the Scriptures has been 
 published in modern Greek Another, named Koraeh, made 
 exertions for his Church and country which deserved a bet- 
 ter fate. He was a clergyman of the Greek Church, and had 
 obtained a clear knowledge of the gospel. He deeply felt 
 the corruptions of his Church in doctrine and morality, and 
 sought, by a spread of scriptural knowledge, to bring about 
 a reformation in faith and practice. He published several 
 elementary works on Scripture, and composed an elaborate 
 and practical commentary on the Epistles of St Paul to 
 Timothy, intended for the use of the clergy, and admirably 
 adapted to shew them their duties on scriptural authority. 
 But the corrupt hierarchy took alarm ; a cry arose, ' The craft 
 is in danger!' Koraeh's best book was condemned, and 
 himself subjected to trying persecutions. This heroic and 
 patriotic man, who had eagerly set to work, full of life and 
 hope, for the renovation of his country and Church, found 
 himself not only unsupported by his brethren, but an object 
 of suspicion and distrust; and died, at length, some say, 
 broken-hearted. 
 
 " From Syra, eighteen hours brought us to Smyrna. This 
 is one of the great seaports of Asia Minor ; has a large num- 
 ber of European merchants, of different nations, constantly 
 resident ; also a great intercourse with the interior, to which 
 caravans are constantly passing. For some time, Western 
 Christians have been endeavouring to raise up here the 
 candlesticks that are thrown down. Worldliness and 
 ecclesiastical assumption prevent the spread of the gospel in 
 
THE ENVOY. 195 
 
 its purity ; and, in more senses than one, the place seems to 
 merit the name given it by the Turks Giaour Ismir, or 
 Infidel Smyrna. 
 
 " We were hospitably received here by the missionaries of 
 the C. M. S. Passing through the crowded and dirty streets 
 of a town, in which, strange to say, there has been no plague 
 for several years, we arrived at the Bridge of the Caravans. 
 Many long lines of shaggy camels were filing through the 
 streets. The camel here is different from that of Syria and 
 Egypt, has longer hair, and is better adapted to cold weather. 
 It is sometimes called the Toorkman camel, and is peculiar 
 to Asia Minor, and the countries towards Tartary. Numbers 
 of these animals were standing or lying in an open space 
 between the stream and the magnificent groves of cypress. 
 The Toorkman camel-drivers, in their enormous turbans, and 
 full shaggy garments, were grouped about amongst their 
 patient beasts. Mingled with the living animals were bones 
 and skeletons ; close to the tent of the men, dogs were feeding 
 on the bloody carcase of the last poor beast which had fallen 
 a victim to his toils. The first droves of camels that we see 
 make a deep impression ; the mind naturally recurs to 
 Abraham and his faithful servant, to the wanderings and 
 migrations of the patriarchs ; but these animals soon become 
 things of every-day life. 
 
 " Smyrna has often been described. The situation is very 
 fine ; the bay is surrounded on three sides by rugged hills, 
 with rocky barren summits, the slopes in many places 
 studded with villages, in which the dwellings are nearly 
 concealed by the various trees. Immediately behind the 
 town rises a hill crowned by a round castle, near which is 
 
] 96 THE ENVOY. 
 
 the amphitheatre in which Polycarp suffered martyrdom. 
 A part of the town rises on the slope of this hill, and the 
 compact mass of building is bounded by the tall dark cypress, 
 so common and striking a feature in most of the towns of 
 Asia Minor. 
 
 " The road from the Caravan Bridge led through this ex- 
 tensive grove, which was full of the signs of mortality. A 
 stone, about five feet high and ten inches wide, engraved 
 with a turban or fez, marks innumerable graves. On many 
 of these monuments were long inscriptions ; some had gilded 
 ornaments denoting the wealth and dignity of him or her 
 whose clay was mouldering beneath. It was with a feeling 
 of sadness and solemnity that we gazed round on the vast 
 and crowded burying-ground, in whose cheerless precincts 
 there lay not one on whom even His name had been called, 
 Who is the Resurrection and the Life. To the Christian 
 mind, this thought has something in it that must throw over 
 the Moslem cemetery a gloom far deeper than the dark shade 
 of the lofty and thickly-standing cypresses. The scene was 
 peculiar ; it had its beauties, and its poetry, but I thought 
 of that which is written, ' There is none other name under 
 heaven given amongst men, whereby we must be saved.' 
 The power and meaning of that name the Moslem's book 
 denies. 
 
 " But it is not for me to dwell on scenes or incidents of 
 travel. A ride, with many interesting views, and over a 
 road that had once been made and mended, and by a ruined 
 aqueduct, brought us to the village of Boujah. This is a 
 pleasant place about three miles from Smyrna, where many 
 of the European merchants reside. It has of late been ren- 
 
THE ENVOY. 197 
 
 dered notorious as being the haunt of a daring gang of 
 robbers, whose audacious exploits have spread terror in the 
 neighbourhood. It was suspected, and since more than sus- 
 pected, that these ruffians were in league, or, at least, had far 
 too intimate an understanding, with some young men of 
 French and English families residing at Smyrna." 
 
 Mr Bowen never completed the revision of his journal, 
 and from this point we must give the notes entered in his 
 diary as they were hastily written from day to day. Here 
 and there, indeed, are missing links, which, happily however, 
 his letters for the most part supply : 
 
 " The European missionaries at Smyrna are Mr Walters, 
 Mr Sandrecski, and Antonio Delassio. They have extensive 
 young families, the eldest in each case being about twelve 
 years ; nice interesting children, though rather shy. This is 
 the missionary force in Smyrna. Delassio lives in a small 
 house in the town, erected by the Society, which serves also 
 for the business of the missionaries in the city. Messrs 
 Walters and Sandrecski reside at Boujah, in a large house 
 which belongs to the Society. 
 
 " The mission premises comprise an old Turkish dwelling 
 having many rooms, forming three sides of a square yard, 
 which is paved, with trees growing in it. The buildings 
 are rather old, and, extensive as they are, anything but 
 commodious. In cold weather, the rooms are very chilly, 
 which, however, makes them pleasant during the heat of 
 summer, though, from the closeness of the trees, they are 
 sometimes oppressive. The mission was commenced in 
 
198 THE ENVOY. 
 
 1832, and, for a time, had flourishing schools, but these 
 were closed by means of the Greek priests. Notwithstand- 
 ing this, the labour has not been altogether in vain. 
 
 "March 30th. On board the steamer Ociana. Being 
 now on the voyage to Beyrout, I shall endeavour to avail 
 myself of the fine weather to complete a short notice of the 
 mission at Smyrna. 
 
 " Having noticed the labourers slightly, I must also record 
 the great kindness which I experienced from every member 
 of the mission, and the true Christian affection with which 
 they received me, and paid me every possible attention. 
 
 "In speaking of a mission, we should notice the object of 
 the work, the niode of proceeding, and the result. 
 
 " The population of Turkey consists of Christians, Turks, 
 and Jews, in various proportions. In almost every spot the 
 Turks predominate, except, it may be, in some of the islands 
 of the Archipelago. 
 
 "At Smyrna there are many Christians, of the three 
 prevailing denominations Armenian, Greek, and Eastern 
 Catholic. The Jesuits in this place are very numerous, and 
 have large educational establishments. The Americans have 
 a mission to the Armenians ; but the same success does not 
 appear to have attended their labours here as elsewhere, 
 there being at this time at Broussa and Constantinople quite 
 a Protestant movement amongst the Armenians. There is 
 also a mission here to the Jews. There seems to be no 
 outpouring of the Spirit upon Israel at the present time. 
 Various Israelites have been baptized ; some have been 
 satisfactory converts, but have removed to other parts. There 
 
THE ENVOY. 199 
 
 are now a few inquirers and candidates for baptism, but of 
 uncertain character. 
 
 " The first object of the Church of England in the Medi- 
 terranean mission was the Eastern Churches. At Smyrna 
 the missionary laboured for the Greeks ; schools were opened ; 
 they preached to the churches ; but opposition came, the 
 children were withdrawn, ' and for a time the mission was 
 abandoned. 
 
 " The mission to the Greeks was not in vain. Mr Walters 
 mentioned several who had been impressed' by the gospel, 
 and others who had died in the truth a sufficient result for 
 those who understand the priceless value of one soul. He 
 also spoke to me of the priest Eustathius. This man had 
 been servant to Mr Jetter, had paid attention to the instruc- 
 tions received in his house, and knew something of ancient 
 Greek. He became a priest, and was for a time stationed at 
 Boujah. He endeavoured to correct some of the abuses of 
 public worship in his Church, though he had not courage 
 to protest against the glaring errors of the system. The ser- 
 vice is generally read in a most hurried style, so that it is 
 impossible to catch even an articulate sound ; and, as the 
 language is in a measure obsolete, the people know nothing 
 of what is said. The Gospels and some of the prayers were 
 recited intelligibly by Eustathius, and explained in preaching. 
 This the other priests opposed, though the people liked it 
 much. He also gained the general esteem by abstaining 
 from the various petty ways of extortion so common and 
 almost universal among the Greek clergy, which is, indeed, 
 their only mode of getting a livelihood. Through the oppo- 
 
200 THE ENVOY. 
 
 sition of the other priests, he was removed to a remote 
 parish, with a very small and poor population, scarcely able 
 to give him the customary and reasonable dues. One of the 
 priests complained of his reading the service so slowly, 
 ' What matter is it ? get it done/ 
 
 " Eeturning from Smyrna one evening with Mr Walters, 
 .the children met us at the entrance to the yard through 
 which the house is approached, and exclaimed with much 
 joy ' The priest is come !' He had brought two lambs and 
 a few eggs, as A present to his friends the missionaries. At 
 supper I found him as dirty as Greek priests generally are : 
 he wore his beard, cap, and coarse gown. There was a degree 
 of kindness and humility in his expression, though his coun- 
 tenance was rendered very homely by the squint in his eyes. 
 He replied with interest to my broken salutation. 
 
 " Prom Mr Walters, I gathered that his poor people were 
 glad to hear him. read and explain the gospel. He had also 
 read the gospel to the Turks, who said they were much 
 pleased, and that he must become their priest. Thus the 
 light given to the Greeks may also be of use to the Turks. 
 Eustathius will take back with him a Turkish Bible. He 
 speaks occasionally of the sad corruptions and covetousness 
 of the priests." 
 
 A letter of Mr Bowen's will give the best account of the 
 remainder of this journey : 
 
 TO THE EEV. A. CHEAP. 
 
 "JERUSALEM, April 16, 1849. 
 " MY VERY DEAE VICAR, Knowing the deep interest that 
 
THE ENVOY. 201 
 
 you, and many of those around you, take in this place, I 
 commence to you the first letter from this spot, so hallowed 
 by associations of the most intense interest I feel, too, that 
 you and the dear people of Knaresborough have also a claim 
 upon me, as having, in some sort, sent me forth on this 
 journey. Hitherto the Lord hath brought me, and I have 
 cause to thank Him for having given me, in many respects, a 
 very delightful tour. Would that I could convey to you 
 upon paper, not all that I have felt and witnessed, but some- 
 thing, at least, of those scenes and incidents ^n which you 
 would especially sympathise with me ; but this neither my 
 powers of description nor the limits I can give to a letter, 
 will permit me to do. I have passed rapidly from one scene 
 of interest to another, and everywhere I have received this 
 impression that the world is open to the Word of God, 
 though it cannot yet be said that this portion of it is 
 absolutely free for the preaching of the gospel, especially to 
 the Turks ; but even upon them, I trust the day is dawn- 
 ing 
 
 " At Smyrna, I was detained nine days, owing to the bad 
 arrangements of the Austrian Steam-packet Company. In 
 this place I was first made acquainted with the dirt and filth 
 of a Turkish town. Here was a great commercial city with, 
 for the most part, a quantity of filthy mud in the centre of 
 its narrow streets. No roads in the neighbourhood that 
 deserve the name ; all burdens of every kind borne on the 
 backs of men or animals The delay at Smyrna pre- 
 vented my being here by Easter. We left on the 29th 
 March, touched at Rhodes, where we visited the Jews' syna- 
 gogue ; the people crowded round ; I wished for the gift of 
 
202 THE ENVOY. 
 
 tongues to speak to them ; I was not even prepared with 
 publications for them. At Cyprus, by the suggestion of the 
 consul, I paid a visit to a Greek bishop, which was rather 
 interesting. The people had just petitioned the consul to 
 endeavour to get schools established in the island on the 
 same plan as the C. M. S. schools at Syra, I spoke to him 
 of making the Word of God, and not tradition, the basis of 
 Christian instruction. The next day, after leaving Cyprus 
 at daybreak, we cast anchor at Beyroot. Going immediately 
 on deck, I haft a view of the lofty snow-covered ridge of 
 Lebanon. It was very imposing. Finding no other mode 
 of conveyance than a vessel driven by uncertain winds, we 
 formed a party with two other travellers to go by land, and 
 provided ourselves with horses, bedding, tents, and mules for 
 .aero. We paid ninety piastres, (about los.,) for each 
 animal, to convey us from Beyroot to Jerusalem. 
 
 " The journey was intensely interesting from the variety of 
 scenes, the exercise of riding, and the powerful associations 
 connected with many spots that we passed ; I will only men- 
 tion two or three. Saido or Sidon was our first halt for the 
 night. This is rather a better place than I expected, but still 
 a miserable village. Tyre was our next stage ; we arrived 
 early, and were comfortably lodged in the house of a native 
 Christian. I was anxious to see the fulfilment of prophecy. 
 There is a small village on a peninsula once an island. A 
 son-in-law of our host undertook to shew us about ; he wanted 
 to take us to some ruins of modern date, but I wished to visit 
 the shore, and walked on the beach, where some rocks jutted 
 into the sea. I read Ezekiel xxvi 14. This little village, 
 these nets, this sea-beaten rock, I regarded as a complete 
 
THE ENVOY. 203 
 
 fulfilment of the prophecy ; but looking at the rock on 
 which I stood, the waves dashing against it. I saw that it had 
 once been masonry. Columns of great size were bedded in 
 it, and large square blocks of stone were to be seen set 
 in cement, from which they could not be distinguished, ex- 
 cept by the pieces of pottery that were used in the com- 
 position of the mortar ; the very building had become rock, 
 this being brought about by a deposit of slime, (Ezekiel xxvi. 
 12.) No traveller that I am aware of has described this as 
 I saw it. The tide was rather low the evening I was there. 
 So striking and startling a fulfilment almost made me drop 
 the Bible into the water. There is also a great part of the 
 old town covered with sand and dirt. 
 
 ".Next day, crossing some sand, we passed over much 
 rocky and mountainous ground, when, suddenly coming to 
 the summit of a hill or precipice called Cape Nakhora. we 
 had, for the first time, a view of the Promised Land. The 
 plain of Acre (Accho) was spread before us in all the rich 
 verdure of an eastern spring, bounded on one side by the 
 sea, with the long, high top of Carmel rising on the south, 
 and on the east the mountains of Galilee. This was the 
 inheritance of Asher, who from this place would indeed pro- 
 duce royal dainties, and find that his bread was ' fat/ (Gen. 
 xlix. 20.) At Acre we spent Easter-Sunday. Our party 
 alone made a little congregation, which included a German 
 Roman Catholic, who was much impressed by our service, 
 being able to follow it with the assistance of a German 
 Prayer-book. 
 
 " On Monday, leaving Acre, we turned inland, and passing 
 some fertile hilly ground and much picturesque scenery, 
 
204} THE ENVOY. 
 
 we came to a spot to c me most interesting the 'city called 
 Nazareth.' We were lodged here in a place built by the 
 convent of Koman Catholics for the reception of strangers. 
 I went to see some of the places they shew such as the 
 house or cave of the Virgin Mary, now enclosed in a church, 
 and what they say is the workshop of Joseph, and a stone 
 said to have been used by our Lord and His disciples. Here, 
 too, was a chapel, and a paper stating that whoever visited 
 that stone, and repeated an Ave and Paternoster, should have 
 seven years' indulgence, and seventy-four days' fast excused. 
 How fearfully do the profanities of Popery reveal the danger 
 and uselessness of even the most hallowed associations ! 
 
 "It is to be doubted whether the Nazareth of this day 
 occupies precisely the position of the Nazareth of the New 
 Testament ; but I felt that it was amongst those hills and 
 in those valleys that the man Christ Jesus had spent that 
 mysterious youth in which the Lord of all was content to 
 grow in wisdom and stature, and was subject to His parents. 
 I left the party viz., my interpreter, an English gentleman, 
 and the German and strolled a little by myself ; but the 
 shades of evening, and the wild, scowling looks of some of 
 the people and Bedouins I met, warned me to return to 
 our quarters. The plain of Esdraelon was passed the next 
 day, then the mountains of Samaria, and afterwards Mount 
 Ephraim, when, leaving the luggage and other travellers at 
 Nablous with the Arabs, I pushed on, and reached Jerusalem 
 a day sooner than they did. Here I have felt the associa- 
 tions very powerfully. I did not come to seek them, and am, 
 therefore, more thankful for being permitted to be so con- 
 stantly reminded of Him who taught in these streets and 
 
THE ENVOY. 205 
 
 wept for their rebellious inhabitants. On my first sight, I 
 thought much of Him who said, '0 Jerusalem, Jerusalem ! ' 
 and of the temple, not one stone of which was to be left on 
 another. The appearance of the city was much more im- 
 pressive than I expected. The Bishop is all that could be de- 
 sired. On Sunday, I read prayers, and he preached. Satur- 
 day, I witnessed, in the Church of the reputed Holy Sepul- 
 chre, the disgusting exhibition of the Greek fire. For such 
 a sad display of wild and indecorous fanaticism, superstition, 
 and deceit, I was not prepared. The inn was crowded with 
 pilgrims. Of this scene I will write again, and hope you 
 will see the description : at present I have not space for it. 
 The crowd was kept in order by Turkish soldiers ; men ran 
 frantically about, clapping their hands, and calling ' Fire ! 
 fire!' like the priests of Baal. I send a few flowers, wild and 
 simple, but gathered this morning from the Mount of Olives, 
 and an olive-leaf from the neighbourhood of Gethsemane. I 
 must bid you farewell. May the Lord be much with you and 
 your fellow-labourers, with the flock, and with the kind 
 friends who are fellow-helpers in the work ! May the Lord 
 bless you all abundantly ! I long to hear of you. In mem- 
 ory and imagination I often return, especially on the Lord's- 
 day. There are many names upon my mind ; but I cannot 
 go over them all. Yours, most affectionately, 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 We return to the journal at Jerusalem : 
 
 "April loth, (Sunday.) This morning, read prayers in 
 the Church of Jerusalem. Felt it deeply thus to meet for 
 
206 THE ENVOY. 
 
 the worship of Jehovah on that Mount Zion that He loved. 
 There was a prayer for the Sultan. The Bishop preached 
 from John xxi. simple and practical. Walked with an 
 American gentleman to Gethsemane deeply impressed. 
 Attended the Hebrew service at six A.M. ; could not follow ; 
 walked from the Jaffa gate to the Damascus ; pilgrims de- 
 parting, felt the importance of making an effort for them ; 
 called on the Bishop, an Arab Christian was there ; some 
 of these are inclined to become Protestant. Had some trial 
 in the conduct of one of their party. The Word of God is 
 working. 
 
 "May 26th. A Christian named Michael, who has con- 
 nected himself with our Church, betrothed his daughter, and 
 was very anxious that the festivities on the occasion should 
 
 be graced by . He came in the evening, and we settled 
 
 to go, as there was not such an opportunity likely to occur 
 again. We went some time after tea, and met the intended 
 bridegroom coming for us. On reaching the house, we were 
 greeted by some women in the court with that peculiar shriek 
 which constitutes a part of their merry-making. Going on, 
 we were asked into a room full of women, amongst whom I 
 was admitted, on account of my being a cass or priest. The 
 ladies were all without their veils, and were not at all dis- 
 turbed by my presence. The room was nearly full, part of 
 the company being seated on divans at the side, the remainder 
 on the floor. They were smoking nargili, drinking coffee, 
 and eating sweetmeats. Many kissed Mrs most affec- 
 tionately ; they seemed a light-hearted, friendly people. There 
 were many grades amongst them in respect of wealth; 
 among Arab ladies this distinction is always marked by 
 
THE ENVOY. 207 
 
 dress. Several of them had a considerable number of gold 
 coins about them, some large and handsome ; a few wore 
 jewels ; one lady had a great number of diamonds. I could 
 not speak to them. A wedding party on a Sabbath even- 
 ing might have been a good occasion, had their minds been 
 in a fit state, or a qualified speaker been present. They 
 seemed to be just like what other women who think them- 
 selves vastly superior, might be under similar circumstances. 
 They gossiped and enjoyed themselves, and appeared much 
 amused at the stranger introduced among them, and in- 
 clined to shew him every attention. 
 
 "May 29/i (extract from a letter) : 
 
 " I have been very quiet since my arrival here. Am living 
 in lodgings, at the house of a converted German Jew, and 
 
 have an Arab boy for a servant. S (the person engaged 
 
 by the C. M. S. to assist me) lives with me. My chief occu- 
 pation is learning Arabic, to which I apply very closely. I 
 learnt first from a Syrian priest, who has become a Protest- 
 tant. Since he left, I have been reading with a Mohammedan 
 Sheik.* My teacher preaches at the Mosque of Omar, 
 (which you know stands on the probable site of the temple.) 
 He cannot speak English, so I cannot communicate with 
 - him ; but having grammars and lexicons that I can under- 
 stand, and an interpreter, I think his assistance is an 
 advantage, except that I cannot speak to him of those im- 
 portant truths in reference to which he is both ignorant and 
 unfavourably prejudiced. From several indications, I cannot 
 help feeling that the fierce, intolerant spirit of Mohammedan- 
 ism is giving way, though there is yet but a very weak, 
 
 * Sheik means elder, and is the Mussulman preacher. 
 
208 THE ENVOY. 
 
 inadequate instrumentality for making the gospel known to 
 them, and the Government presents great obstacles, as no 
 direct missionary efforts would be tolerated. 
 
 " The English Church here has a small mixed congregation 
 of Jewish proselytes from various nations. I have taken 
 some part or other in the services of each Lord's-day since 
 my arrival. The Psalms and Lessons often have a very 
 peculiar force when read in Jerusalem, from the many allu- 
 sions to the place. I have made an excursion to Bethlehem, 
 which is a tolerably-sized village, on a hill, with a large 
 convent, and where, as in almost every spot hallowed by the 
 great associations of the past, superstition has burlesqued 
 truth by the minute accuracy with which the precise spot of 
 each event is pointed out. In a cavern under the church 
 you are shewn the manger of marble in which the new-born 
 Saviour was laid ; in another part of the same place is a 
 cavern in which the innocents were slain ; here is the place 
 where the shepherds came, and there the magi ; another, 
 where Joseph remained on the night of our Saviour's birth ; 
 and in each spot an altar, pictures, candles, lamps, crosses, 
 and images. From Bethlehem I went to a place called Betur, 
 where, in the hilly country south of Jerusalem, the despair- 
 ing Jews made a last stand, after the destruction of the city 
 by Titus. The country is wild, rocky, and barren, for the 
 rocks are bare : wherever there is soil, it is good ; and some 
 of the valleys are rich. 
 
 "The condition of the fellahs or peasants is very bad. 
 Their villages, indeed, are not worse or more dirty than a 
 collection of Irish huts, but the people constantly shew indi- 
 cations of their sadly barbarous state. You see the peasant 
 
THE ENVOY. 209 
 
 at his work with his gun be'side him, and an old sword in 
 his girdle, and why is this ? he fears that the people of the 
 next village may come down and attack him and his towns- 
 men. Feuds of blood frequently exist between certain 
 villages, without the Government taking any trouble to 
 prevent them* There is no law; everything is subject to 
 the will of the pacha or governor, and a poor man, op- 
 pressed by the local administration, dare not appeal to a 
 superior, for a bribe would be sure to turn the case against 
 him. Badly off as many of the poor are in our own dear 
 country, here they are in*a worse condition. There, there 
 is at least hope for them ; they have the Word of God, they 
 may hear it, they may be acquainted with the eternal life 
 revealed therein. This can cheer them through their pilgrim- 
 age of life,' though it be toilsome, but the Mohammedan is 
 utterly dark. Though the townspeople are, in some re- 
 spects, much like other townspeople, the country Arabs 
 are in a very degraded state ; the children in some villages 
 look more like animals than intelligent beings. And this 
 reminds me that I should mention an interesting sight I 
 witnessed this morning. The school, which is here under 
 the Bishop's care, was reopened in a new and enlarged room 
 About twenty-five children were present, Jews and Christians. 
 Many of the congregation were there. The children and 
 others were addressed most impressively by the Bishop, and 
 also briefly by the missionaries to the Jews here, Mr Nicolay- 
 son, and Mr Ewald. This school is of importance, as the 
 children will receive a sound Christian education, in the 
 midst of a degraded population of nominal Christians, 
 Jews and Mohammedans. A few days ago, a child of Arab 
 
210 THE ENVOY. 
 
 parents, members of the Greek Church, was sent here ; the 
 father and mother were excommunicated and turned out of 
 their house by the Greek patriarch. The Greek Church is 
 quite as bigoted and more benighted than the Roman. The 
 Sultan has lately addressed a letter to the head of this Church 
 complaining of the wickedness and covetousness of the priests, 
 and exhorting them to be moral, and set an example to the 
 people. 
 
 " An instance of persecution occurred the other day : a 
 Jewish convert had his wife taken from him, almost by force. 
 Another, a young lad of fifteen, who was just married, wished 
 to inquire into Christianity ; and, in order to do so, came to 
 an institution for converts, and was admitted. His parents 
 came and demanded him, and, being an Austrian subject, 
 they got possession of him through the consul, and used 
 him very ill, beating and spitting on him ; of course, the 
 English authorities cannot interfere. 
 
 " The Mount of Olives is a pretty object from the city, 
 and affords the best view of it. On the other side there is 
 a striking panorama of the mountains towards Jericho, the 
 river Jordan winding through its already green and fertile 
 plain into the Dead Sea, and the mountains of Moab be- 
 yond. I expect soon to visit them ; my plan now is to pro- 
 ceed to Nablous in about three weeks, then to cross the Jor- 
 dan to Salt, and, if practicable, the Delabe Hauran, a rather 
 populous tract bordering on the desert to the north, to go 
 to Lebanon in August, and then, in September or October, 
 to Egypt with the Bishop ; thence to return here, and to- 
 wards the close of the year, to push on as far as Mosul, pro- 
 bably by Aleppo. 
 
THE ENVOY. 211 
 
 " June 5th. No Greek this morning, only Arabic. Had 
 
 a discussion with my teacher, through S , on fatalism, 
 
 and on the Scriptures, which he affirmed were corrupted. 
 He spoke with good temper, and professed his desire to 
 know the truth. May God enable me to be faithful with 
 him ! 
 
 "June 7th. This morning, a trifling accident to my eye 
 prevents me from reading with my usual ease. I have felt 
 much cast down these few days, perhaps impatient with the 
 monotony of the occupation ; feeling solitary, as, from my 
 studying, I cannot see much of any one here ; oppressed 
 with painful emotions consequent on discussions with my 
 Mohammedan teacher, all which, with a sense of uselessness 
 hitherto, tend to depress me. Yet Jesus is all-sufficient ; He 
 will raise up them that are cast down. 
 
 " Yesterday, heard the following conversation, as having 
 taken place between Abu Hannah, an Arab who assists the 
 Bishop as a sort of secretary, and some of the Greek Catholic 
 bishops, at present collected here for a synod. Three of 
 them paid him a visit. The conversation turned on the 
 actions that might be considered disgraceful Abu Hannah 
 said, ' That to do any menial action for the sake of an honest 
 livelihood was not disgraceful, but that sin and immorality 
 were/ ' What do you consider the most disgraceful ? ' 'It 
 is hard to choose between wickedness ; but as to which is the 
 worst pursuit for gaining a living, I am sure lying is the 
 most shameful, and is very disgraceful/ 'Ah/ said they, 
 'that is an English view/ 'Then/ he replied, 'you admit 
 that your view is different/ 
 
 sth. Went this morning with Dr Crawford to pay a 
 
212 THE ENVOY. 
 
 visit to the Pacha, who received us very civilly. Conversed, 
 
 through S , on the Malta College. 
 
 "12th. Early yesterday morning, set off, with Messrs 
 
 B. and F. H , for the Jordan. We left at five A.M. The 
 
 sun was up as we passed through the Damascus gate ; and 
 riding round the city wall towards the St Stephen gate, we 
 met a part of our escort a Bedouin, mounted, with a gun ; 
 and the sheik, an old man, with a green gown over the 
 coarse linen shirt, the ordinary and sole summer dress of the 
 fellahs of this country. We ascended the Mount of Olives, 
 passed through Bethany, and descended a hill to a well, where 
 we halted for a short time. We then proceeded through a 
 valley. The road for some time was tolerable, and the hills 
 assumed a less rocky and more rounded appearance, though 
 there was but little vegetation or appearance of fertility. We 
 passed no village after Bethany. At Nebi Mousa, a place 
 assigned by the Mussulmans as the tomb of Moses, there was 
 a good deal of building, but in a dilapidated condition. The 
 country round was rocky, barren, and desolate. Near Nebi 
 Mousa, two or three Bedouins joined us on foot, with long 
 guns, and walked with us for a little while. The ride of a 
 part of two days and a night under a burning sun proved 
 very fatiguing. The shores of the Dead Sea are desolate, but 
 not so much so as has been represented by some writers. A 
 few shrubs grow in the salt plain near the shore ; but there 
 is a considerable extent of barren sand from the point where 
 we reached the Salt Lake as far as the Jordan, which we 
 found very refreshing, as it ran with its rapid, muddy cur- 
 rent between green banks. But I am invading the tourist's 
 province though, indeed, in the region between Jerusalem 
 
THE ENVOY. 213 
 
 and the Dead Sea and Jericho, there is no work for any other. 
 Not a single hamlet even did we pass after leaving Bethany, 
 until, as we made a circuit, we returned to a village near the 
 site of ancient Jericho, where we encamped by a fountain of 
 beautiful water most likely, that healed by Elisha. There 
 is another in the midst of the plain, at this season forming a 
 bright little oasis ; but it had at this time a slightly brackish 
 taste and odour. 
 
 " June 18th. This day the heat has been great ; and I 
 begin to feel the effect in the general lassitude of my frame, 
 which I must make an effort to overcome. Greek and Arabic 
 in the morning. I am reading Eomans with the Mohamme- 
 dan sheik. He urged, as he occasionally does, an objection 
 from some supposed discrepancy of Scripture. To-day, he 
 demurred to our Lord's saying that He knew not the day of 
 judgment, while we declare that He is God. The answer, 
 that our Lord spoke in a twofold nature, did not seem to 
 satisfy him ; yet I could not help feeling that his mind is at 
 work. He acknowledged himself to be somewhat sceptical 
 on a few points of his own creed, or, rather, that he did not 
 believe in Mohammed, but in God, and received the teaching 
 of all the prophets. 
 
 "I have been busy to-day unpacking the cases which 
 arrived yesterday. I find one case containing thirty-one 
 Arabic Bibles, thirteen Testaments, three modern Greek 
 Testaments, twenty-five Psalters ; may these books be made 
 a blessing to the country. A second case contains a great 
 variety of tracts in Arabic ; a third, Arabic, Turkish, Syriac, 
 Italian, and Greek Scriptures. May God make these books 
 a blessing to those who read them ! 
 
214 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " 19th. No Greek ; S was not up. Arabic with the 
 
 sheik. Mohammedan doctrine that God made sin briefly 
 discussed. Went in the afternoon to the diocesan school, 
 which does very great credit to Miss Harding the teacher. 
 The first class read Matt. xiii. 1, &c., and shewed that they 
 understood the parable of the sower as well as children could 
 be expected to do. Called afterwards on Mr Ewald, and 
 walked through the Jewish quarter. Met in the street 
 Sheik Assaad, and turned into his house; his window 
 overlooked the Mosque of Omar ; he received me with much 
 kindness. I have felt considerable sorrow about this man, 
 and trust that the Lord may enable me yet to do something 
 for him in the way of opening his mind to the truth of the 
 gospel. 
 
 "24<th. I read prayers this morning as usual, in the 
 church, and preached in the evening from Col. ii. 6, 7. Felt 
 much depression in preparation, but trusted that the Lord 
 would help me, and spoke with considerable freedom. 
 From want of time, I was obliged to omit speaking to the 
 school, which I had purposed ; perhaps I was wrong, but I 
 was fearful of wearying the congregation by being more 
 than forty minutes. I went afterwards to the Bishop's, and 
 had much pleasant and profitable conversation. It is very 
 interesting to see him with his children about him at family 
 prayer ; his animated address to them, and their intelligent 
 countenances, as they listen attentively to the exposition of 
 the chapter, and answer any question that may be put to 
 them, combine to form a most pleasing picture. 
 
 " 25th. Very busy this morning repacking and arranging 
 the Bibles that I have received from the Bible Society. 
 
THE ENVOY. 215 
 
 Some I shall leave here, and others I take with me on my 
 journey. I intend to go first to Nablous, and then, God 
 willing, to cross the Jordan to Salt ; going on, probably, to 
 Kamoth-gilead. Being then more completely among the 
 Arabs, I hope to acquire orally more of their language. In 
 both these places there is a considerable movement, as 
 indeed there appears to be in many parts of this country. 
 The people are getting in advance of their teachers ; and 
 everywhere, where there are Christians, there is always a 
 demand for Bibles. The priests, in some districts, are quite 
 at a loss, because, as they say, the people want the gospel, 
 and they cannot or will not give it to them. On the other 
 hand, it must be admitted that, in many cases, there is more 
 of a desire for freedom, and a wish for knowledge, for the 
 sake of secular advancement, than a real desire for truth ; of 
 the nature of which they are, of course, ignorant. Still there 
 is an opening, and I trust it may be taken advantage of in 
 some way or other. 
 
 " I feel veiy unequal to any good work, and am setting 
 out on my tour in rather low spirits. One reason is that I 
 know I shall have some trouble of a smaller kind with my 
 establishment a converted Jew, interpreter and assistant; 
 a native Christian cook; and a Mohammedan groom. I 
 fear that their tempers will not agree, and the people here 
 are sometimes difficult to manage ; however, all will be well 
 the Lord is my keeper. 
 
 " I drank tea at the Bishop's, and felt much comforted 
 after prayer. I have felt it difficult to realise that what I 
 am about is the work of the Lord, there is so much of the 
 world in all the preparation of servants, horses, and provisions. 
 
216 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " 27th. I had little left to do this day but to write some 
 letters and put away a few things ; I felt rather depressed 
 and wearied with anxious forebodings. We had intended 
 starting about three, but the servants and muleteers did not 
 get things ready till near five. When all were prepared, and 
 the mules had set off, Hhaleel, my servant, a lad rather too 
 young for the situation he occupies, made a demand for one 
 hundred piastres, which, he said, he wanted for his father. 
 He was already more than forty piastres in debt, and had led 
 us to suspect that the more easily he could get money in 
 advance, the more impertinent he would become. On these 
 grounds, I refused to supply him ; whereupon he gave symp- 
 toms of not starting, said he did not want to go, and refused 
 to mount his horse. Accordingly, I said he might stay, but 
 that I would keep the thing he was to have had ; the man 
 led the horse to the gate that he might have time to con- 
 sider; we left him standing with some people who urged 
 him to go. We saw nothing of him till dusk, when he made 
 his appearance ; we let him do his work without taking any 
 notice of him. 
 
 "Our encampment is very comfortable. The night fine 
 and clear as usual. A drove of camels is visible about twenty 
 yards in front, near the fountain of water. The village is at 
 some little distance. We shall not see any of the people 
 here." 
 
 NABLOUS. 
 
 " June 28th, 1849. The unusual position of lying under 
 a tent, with the bright stars shining upon me through the 
 side, left open for the sake of the air, the bustling of the 
 
THE ENVOY. 217 
 
 horses, and, for a long time, the chatting of the muleteers 
 and servants, prevented my sleeping ; and my comrade 
 fared very little better. At last, when all was still, a large 
 drove of camels, which was lying before us, began to get 
 under way with much noise, groaning and lowing, and 
 their drivers shouting and bawling. Afterwards, a party of 
 Turks set off; and they, also, made a sufficient disturbance 
 to prevent one sleeping. When they were gone, a family of 
 Arabs, who had been also lying down near the spring, pre- 
 pared for their departure, which seemed to require much 
 loud talking of men and women, and the squalling of a child. 
 When they were fairly gone, about one o'clock, and all was 
 once more still, I was just falling into a doze, when my horse, 
 which had contributed his neighing to the previous hubbub, 
 got loose. This fact I ascertained by hearing him come near 
 the tent to the other animals. As it was just possible he 
 might hurt them, the syeds and muleteers had to be called 
 up. This done, we thought we might as well follow the 
 example of our late neighbours ; so, after some time spent 
 in packing the tent and loading the mules, we started, about 
 half -past three, and before daylight. Kode through some fine 
 mountain country. I saw many poor people at work in the 
 fields : this is a busy time with the harvest ; the wheat is now 
 dead ripe. My heart felt much for them ; they appeared to 
 be labouring very industriously. The men wore only a coarse, 
 long, linen shirt, and girdle ; the women, a long garment of 
 the same nature, with sleeves like a surplice. One party of 
 reapers called to me as they saw us pass, and held up their 
 hooks, as if they wanted me to try my hand. I rode up to 
 
218 THE ENVOY. 
 
 them, and, dismounting, laid hold of one of their miserable 
 sickles, but made very rough work with it. They seemed 
 much amused, and then asked for some medicine for one of 
 the men a little way off, who had tertian ague. The fellahs 
 or felladien, the husbandmen of this country, seem a good- 
 humoured set of people. It is an awful thing to think that 
 they should be left in their present state of darkness and 
 ignorance. Has Christ a people among them ? We halted 
 about an hour on the road near Khan-Leban, under a few 
 olive trees, and reached Nablous about half-past two or three, 
 and, after a short deliberation, decided on occupying a room 
 in A. Aoudie's house. 
 
 " In the evening, several of the people came about us here, 
 and conversed on religious subjects for some time. Many 
 questions were asked about fasting. A, Aoudie was pleased 
 with a passage I shewed him Isaiah Iviii. 5, 6. David 
 Tanous was very kind, and hoped I would soon be able to 
 speak Arabic. I trust the Lord will enable me to leave a 
 savour of Christ. 
 
 " I am tried about the necessity of parting from Hhaleel : 
 
 he does not know his business well, and S is not willing 
 
 to take the trouble of looking after him, so that we must 
 separate. It will be in many ways an advantage to me to 
 have a servant to whom I can speak ; and there is a man 
 here who knows a little English, and is an experienced 
 servant. 
 
 " 29^. We stayed quietly in the house to rest ourselves 
 this morning, and afterwards went out. A man from Berea, 
 who had met us, came in, and by a few questions shewed an 
 inquiring spirit. 
 
THE ENVOY. 219 
 
 "We visited the school. All the children were not yet 
 come in from dinner. They soon arrived, and seated them- 
 selves on the ground round the room, their shoes being left 
 at the door. The books they used were Bibles and Testa- 
 ments. The Bibles were rather large for children ; but they 
 supported them very nicely on a peculiar contrivance, con- 
 sisting of two pieces of wood, about two feet long each, 
 joined together in the shape of the letter X, the flat sides 
 opposite each other, or like the legs of a portable chair : the 
 book lay open before the student, not quite flat, as he squatted 
 on the ground. The only book I saw was the Bible. I asked 
 what elementary works they used, and learned that their 
 primers were written by the master, and that they really had 
 no other books than the Bibles, Testaments, and Psalters of 
 the Bible Society. They read their usual lesson. Assan 
 
 Aoudie, David Tanous, Michael N , and other Christians 
 
 came in whilst they were reading, and seemed to take much 
 interest in the proceedings. 
 
 " They read 1 Kings xvii. I put several questions to them, 
 through S , such as : 
 
 "' What was Elijah?' 
 
 " ' A prophet/ 
 
 "'What is a prophet?' 
 
 " * A saint, a servant of God, one who pleases God one 
 in whom the Spirit of God is.' The idea of foretelling did 
 not come out in the attempt to answer. 
 
 "'Who was Ahab?' 
 
 " ' King of Israel.' 
 . "'Where did he reign?' 
 
 " ' In Jerusalem.' 
 
220 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " * Was there not another king there at this time ? ' 
 
 "'Yes.' 
 
 " ' How were there two kings ? ' 
 
 " Could not answer. One boy, who had been poring atten- 
 tively over his Bible for some time, said, ' In Samaria/ and 
 read 1 Kings xvi. 29. 
 
 " The facts of the chapter were answered readily. 
 
 " ' Why did the woman do as the prophet told her ? ' 
 
 " ' Because she believed in the Lord.' 
 
 " Many other questions were put, and in general answered 
 with readiness ; the children turned quickly and eagerly to 
 the places referred to. The teacher seemed a very intelligent 
 young man, and shewed by his countenance that he was 
 annoyed when the children did not answer the questions. I 
 asked, amongst other things respecting faith, 
 
 " ' Who was remarkable for faith ? ' 
 
 " ' Moses Abraham.' 
 
 " One quoted Heb. xi, another Eom. v. I referred to Rom. 
 iv. 20, 21. When I had ended, they shewed me a very use- 
 ful exercise that they were in the habit of using, viz., read- 
 ing a passage from the Scriptures, and asking where it was ; 
 at this they seemed very ready. This is a most admirable 
 practice, and I never saw it so well carried out as in this 
 Arab school. 
 
 " In the evening, I took a ride with Michael to Jacob's 
 well and Joseph's tomb. The well of Jacob is dry. The tomb 
 of Joseph is a plain square little building, a sarcophagus, 
 enclosed by a wall ; a fine vine overshadows it. 
 
 " In the evening, we found at our quarters our host, Aoudie, 
 Michael N , and another man. We sat down with them. 
 
THE ENVOY. 221 
 
 Presently there came in a Mussulman merchant and a Bedouin 
 sheik. Michael asked him to go to Salt, and to bring back 
 word from a sheik as to who should be our escort there. 
 They talked a long time about the price, (the distance is 
 about forty or fifty miles ;) the sheik wanted thirty piastres 
 for going ; his friend suggested twenty-five ; the other side 
 offered sixteen and a half. The argument was long, and the 
 conversation intermixed with many expressions of politeness. 
 When any one wanted to speak, he said, ' Good evening,' to 
 which the other would answer, 'You are welcome/ At 
 length the sheik proposed taking us himself, and, after a 
 time, it was agreed that he should do so, supplying two 
 horses and two camels for one hundred and twenty piastres. 
 Being required to give a pledge that he would fulfil the 
 contract, and having no money to deposit, he left his sword 
 behind him a scimitar suspended by a cord. He objected 
 to our wish to travel at night, on the ground that it was 
 dangerous, and that ' people were not obliged to know each 
 other then/ One of the Mohammedans, in the midst of our 
 conversation, said his prayers. 
 
 " After tea, I rejoined the party on the terrace, now in- 
 creased by the schoolmaster. They were speaking of the 
 duty of a priest. I referred to several passages in Timothy 
 and Titus ; explained 2 Tim. iv. 1, 2. The schoolmaster 
 
 thought that any man might preach. S disapproved of 
 
 this, referring the opinion to their communication with the 
 Americans. I said that it appeared contrary to the rule and 
 order of the Church for any to preach but those who were 
 call to the work by such as had authority given them in the 
 Church. They next asked about forgiveness of sins, and the 
 
222 THE ENVOY. 
 
 power of binding and loosing. This power I shewed as ap- 
 pertaining to the ministry of the Word, and illustrated my 
 view by the commission given to Jeremiah, chap. i. At first, 
 the schoolmaster could not see the application, and looked 
 disappointed ; but afterwards, when he fully understood it, 
 his countenance brightened up. We also conversed on the 
 sixth chapter of John. There appeared to be a general dis- 
 position to hold the Protestant view of the sacraments. I 
 endeavoured to set before them the spiritual fact of feeding 
 upon Christ by faith, of which they did not seem to have a 
 very clear idea. At a late hour, we retired to rest. 
 
 " June SOth. Got up at six. On going out, I stumbled 
 
 on Michael and N , just rising from the coverlet which 
 
 had formed their bed beneath the canopy of heaven the 
 most pleasant bedroom ceiling here at this season of the year. 
 In the morning, I read a little Arabic, and then went in 
 search of Joseph, an experienced servant, whom, according to 
 previous intention, I engaged. While walking through the 
 streets, the children were, as usual, very noisy, and used in- 
 sulting language against 'the Nazarene.' One little girl 
 went so far as to spit in my face as I passed. I took no 
 notice. 
 
 " On my return, a priest came in from a neighbouring 
 village. We had some very animated conversation on busi- 
 ness matters. I was afterwards introduced to him as a 
 brother priest. He spoke of there being but one Church and 
 one faith, to which I agreed. He then asked what was the 
 difference between the Church of England and the Greek 
 Church. I told him of the objections to images and saint- 
 worship. He seemed good-natured, but ignorant. 
 
THE ENVOY. 223 
 
 "After dinner, I went to the school The boys were 
 writing; each sat cross-legged on the ground, The elder 
 ones had their paper in their hand, and wrote on one finger. 
 The younger used pieces of tin, on which they wrote with a 
 wide-tipped kalamos ; * the writing was good. There was a 
 new scholar from a village near, a fellah. A very old man 
 with a white beard came in ; he was the lad's grandfather. 
 I requested that a few of the boys might be examined before 
 him, that he might see what they learnt. He did not appear 
 for some time to understand what they were about, but 
 afterwards became pleased and interested. The boys gave 
 very fair answers to what was to them quite a new style of 
 questions. 
 
 "In the evening, I rode out to a small village called 
 Rephaim ; and, on my return, joined our friends who were 
 sitting on the steep side of Mount Gerizim, under some 
 olives. Before us lay a fine view of the town, with its 
 luxuriant gardens. The effect was very striking ; the square 
 buildings stood out compactly together, surrounded by a 
 rich border of green foliage extending partially up the hills 
 which rise abruptly on either side of the valley in which the 
 city stands. I found two young Mussulman effendis 
 talking to Assan ; they were anxious to converse with me. 
 We spoke a little on the advantages of education, stating 
 that the Word of God was of chief importance ; to this they 
 did not object. 
 
 " There appear to be several wealthy Turks here, and their 
 sons are genuine specimens of finely-dressed eastern dandies. 
 
 " July 1st, (Sunday.) This was an interesting day. How 
 
 * KaXotfioy. 
 
224 THE ENVOY. 
 
 blessed is the Sabbath wherever it is observed ! Alas, how 
 few in this land know its value ! I thought it would be 
 right to go to the Greek church, as there was no other, and, ac- 
 cordingly, went with Michael. The building was small, about 
 twenty-eight feet by twenty ; decorated, as usual, with pictures 
 and candles. According to native custom, I kept on my hat, 
 removing it at the Lord's Prayer. One of the natives whis- 
 pered to Michael, I see they are Christians as we are. 
 
 " Several women were standing at the door, the men were 
 inside. The greater part stood, a few knelt or squatted. 
 The priest and others chanted. In the Greek Church, the 
 so-called altar is partitioned off by a screen with three open- 
 ings ; one in the centre opposite the altar, through which the 
 priest is visible. He stood with his back to the people, 
 turning towards them once or twice, and pronouncing some 
 words ; at the same time elevating a cup covered with a 
 linen cloth, and afterwards a plate with several pieces of 
 bread upon it. At the conclusion of this performance, he 
 walked through the midst of the congregation out of the 
 church. Many followed him, I with my eyes. In due time, 
 he returned by the same way, and distributed the bread here 
 and there, to me among others ; I took it as a token of my 
 goodwill to them. 
 
 " Afterwards, I went to the schoolmaster's house, where I 
 met the officiating priest. I sat there for some time, and we 
 had pipes and coffee. About ten o'clock, several of the 
 Christians met here at Aoudie's house, and we read some 
 portions of the lessons for the day, and some prayers from the 
 English Prayer-book ; there were more than twenty people 
 present. "While we were reading, two priests came in ; the one 
 
THE ENVOY. 225 
 
 who was here yesterday, and the other from Eephidim. They 
 sat down, and remained with us during our reading. In the 
 afternoon, we rode to Eephidim. I gave a Testament to a 
 lad who came from there to the school here, and also two 
 Bibles and Testaments to the priests for their school. 
 
 " They received us in the court before their little church ; 
 and many of the villagers followed us, and took their seats in 
 
 a circle upon the ground. We (Assan, Michael, S , and 
 
 myself) sat upon mats and carpets next the wall of the church. 
 We were entertained with water-melons, cucumbers, apples, 
 
 and bread. I spoke a few words to them, through S , 
 
 expressive of the interest felt by Western Christians in their 
 brethren of the East, adding that I would give them, if pos- 
 sible, a few more books, and reminding them of the words 
 spoken by our Lord here, in this place, to the woman of 
 Samaria. 
 
 " In the evening we returned to our quarters, and had a 
 long and interesting conversation with Nayan el Gimil and 
 his brother, to whom I gave Psalters. The scene was inter- 
 esting Michael, in his Turkish red cap and black dress ; 
 
 the two Arabs, (N and his brother,) with their heads 
 
 covered with Bedouin head-dresses, looking full of earnest- 
 ness at the questions and explanations of Scripture. They 
 had but little light, but desired to use what they had. The 
 pleasure they take in searching the Word is remarkable : 
 they are quick at detecting discrepancies and difficulties, and 
 ask for explanations of them not in a cavilling spirit, but, 
 I hope, from a real desire to have them solved. A simple, 
 straightforward answer soon satisfies them. They seem to 
 rejoice in the freedom of searching the Word of God. I 
 
226 THE ENVOY. 
 
 thought that something of this kind must have been the case 
 at the Keformation, when men first became possessed of the 
 Bible, and were permitted to read it. 
 
 " At a late hour, I went tired to bed. 
 
 " July 2d. In the morning I repaired to the school. The 
 children were reading their portion of Scripture, each one 
 aloud a practice at one time universal, and still found in 
 some of the country schools in England and Wales. The 
 master called up one or two boys to him at a time, and 
 questioned them on what they had been reading, making 
 them read a little to him : the plan seemed a very excellent 
 
 one. In the afternoon, Michael, S , and myself rode to 
 
 Sebaste the old Samaria. The hills are fine, the road good, 
 the valley through which we passed, fertilised by the stream. 
 
 " Samaria must have been finely situated, the hill having 
 space on the summit for a good large town. Here are the 
 remains of a handsome colonnade of considerable length. 
 We rode to the village. After some dispute, we were per- 
 mitted to enter a building which is now a mosque ; the walls 
 of the once handsome and large church on this site form the 
 court ; within is the dungeon in which John the Baptist is 
 said to have been imprisoned and beheaded ; the Mussulman 
 seemed to hold it in respect. 
 
 "We entered the sacred place of the mosque without 
 opposition. Seeing some writing on the wall, I asked the 
 man who accompanied me if he could read. On his replying 
 in the affirmative, I shewed him the Epistles of St John and 
 a tract, and asked him to read them. He did so, and said 
 it was a Christian book. I inquired whether he would have 
 it. He said, No, he did not want it. I gave it to Michael, 
 
THE ENVOY. 227 
 
 who read several verses of chap. iii. Thus, for the first time, 
 was the Word of God read again in the church. Some of 
 the people approved of the precepts of love, but the sheik 
 was displeased. As the reader uttered that marvellous 16th 
 verse, the only comment it received was a universal sneer at 
 the idea of God having a Son. ' God so loved the world, that 
 he gave his only-begotten Son ! ' ' Who is the Son of God ? 
 God is not begotten, nor begets. Mashallah ! ' 
 
 "When we came out, we found that the shoes of Abu 
 Hhaleel (our guide, and Aoudie's brother) were gone : he had 
 left them at the entrance, out of respect. ' No shoes, no 
 buckshish ! ' we exclaimed, and, after a while, they were pro- 
 duced. Some boys came about us, and were very eager to 
 get books : I gave two or three small tracts from the Malta 
 press. We went to view the other part of the ruined church, 
 which is fine ; and on returning to the horses, found the son 
 of the sheik, who wanted a book : I gave him the ' History 
 of the Cross.' We heard that there were Christians in the 
 place, but did not succeed in discovering any. 
 
 " Returning by the ruined colonnade, we had a fine view 
 of a sloping mountain country, with the Mediterranean in 
 the distance. Following a track that seemed a short cut, we 
 came to a field of cucumbers. It is a common thing in this 
 country to ride or walk through the fields which are unen- 
 closed. I was on foot, and accompanied by one guide, the 
 syce leading my horse after me. We went on, the horse- 
 men, S , and Michael following. We heard an alterca- 
 tion, and saw a fellah with a pistol in his hand, talking loud : 
 he was opposing the passage of the horses through his fields. 
 The syce took hold of his pistol, and Michael threatened to 
 
228 THE ENVOY. 
 
 beat him. I went back, calling to them to be gentle. The 
 fellah, seeing the force against him, gave way. I endeav- 
 oured to assure him that we would do no mischief, and he 
 seemed satisfied, and walked after us to see whether any 
 damage was done. He plucked a cucumber and gave it me, 
 and appeared contented with half a piastre. I certainly 
 sympathised with the poor fellow in his attempt to defend 
 his field from trespassers. 
 
 " In giving money to people in this country I find that 
 they are better pleased with little than much. If you give a 
 man half a piastre for holding your horse, he will be satisfied ; 
 if a two piastre piece, he will want more, from an idea that 
 you do not know the value of money. 
 
 " On my return from Samaria, three Christians came and 
 dined with me ; the conversation soon turned on the Bible. 
 After dinner, we went out on the roof or terrace ; the 
 schoolmaster joined us. He seems very eager at inquiring, 
 and has a reflecting mind. His name is Yacoub. His mode 
 of teaching is certainly good. He is often beset with in- 
 quiries on difficult points. On this occasion, a discussion 
 arose as to the propriety of the use of incense. In support 
 of the practice, he quoted the beautiful words of the psalm 
 ' My prayer shall ascend like the incense ;' arguing from this 
 figurative language that the use of incense was legitimate. 
 This was true as regarded the law of Moses, but see Eev. v. 8. 
 The reference at the last verse seemed to satisfy him. 
 
 " The impression constantly made upon my mind is, that 
 the way for preaching the gospel is more and more open in 
 this country. 
 
 "July 3d To-day, Bishop Gobat was expected here. 
 
THE ENVOY. 229 
 
 The visit seemed to have excited some attention. The 
 governor asked David Tanous whether he should ask him to 
 his house, and whether some of the effendis should ride out 
 to meet him. This was made known to me the night before. 
 I assured David that the Bishop would feel very grateful for 
 the intended honour, but that it would be more suitable to 
 his feelings to enter like any other individual. He said that 
 many of the Christians wished to go and meet him. To this 
 I replied, that if a few went there could be no objection ; 
 but I found, on falling in with the party, that a considerable 
 number had assembled, and many children. Alas, all were 
 doomed to disappointment ! At Hervari, a village two 
 hours from Jerusalem, I waited for the party, where they 
 halted under some olive trees, but the Bishop did not come. 
 " th. We spent some time on Mount Gerlzim. The day 
 was warm, but there was a breeze on the summit. Some 
 extensive ruins, the appearance of the stone, and of some of 
 the walls, incline me to think that the works were not 
 finished. Here is a fine view of the road to Jerusalem ; and, 
 on the other side, the Mediterranean Sea. This spot, over- 
 looking so much of Palestine, was calculated to excite many 
 feelings connected with the past, but my mind was more 
 taken up with the present. An old fellah came up to us and 
 pointed out different places to me, while I watched long with 
 the glass the road to Jerusalem, hoping to see the Bishop. 
 At half-past twelve, I descended, leaving a boy to watch, as 
 we wished to be apprised of his coming. About four, the 
 boy ca'me down, and said he could see no travellers. I 
 thought that the plans of the Bishop must have been altered 
 by some event, when, in the evening, he was announced to 
 
230 THE ENVOY. 
 
 be at the house of David Tanous. I went down, accompanied 
 
 by S , Assan Aoudie, and Michael, and found him sitting 
 
 in the court, with several Arabs round him. It gave me real 
 pleasure to meet him. May the Lord bless his visit ! The 
 mutsellim came in, and called upon him about eight o'clock, 
 soon after which I left him. He intends to remain over 
 Sunday. Mrs Gobat's illness had delayed his arrival. This 
 puts off our projected departure on the morrow. It seems 
 better that we should stay. 
 
 " This day, July 4th, recalled to my mind my American 
 friends, being the anniversary of their independence, the 
 celebration of which I once witnessed at New York. 
 
 " 5th. Early this morning, I was awakened by a knocking 
 
 at the door of the room in which S , Michael, and myself 
 
 slept, . On rising and opening it, I found that this was our 
 sheik, Nigal, who has been here for two days, and for 
 whose maintenance and the use of his camels I had paid 
 sundry piastres. He came expecting us to start to-day. I 
 asked him in. Michael told him of our altered plans ; he 
 looked astonished, and put on a most lackadaisical ex- 
 pression. We informed him that the Bishop had arrived, 
 and that on his account we must stay till the fourth day. 
 How could he go back without us was the question, the 
 people would laugh at him. We reminded him that we had 
 had to come back ashamed the day before, not having met 
 our friend. After a long argument, he was persuaded to 
 return on Monday, under a promise on our parts of forfeiting 
 our fare if we did not take our departure on that day. I 
 went out to attend the Bishop, but found that he was already 
 gone to visit the governor or mutsellim. He was at his 
 
THE ENVOY. 231 
 
 brother's, Mustapha Bey, who seems to have rather an 
 imposing establishment. The house was large ; a splendid 
 court upon the first floor. At the entrance is a large tank 
 of water, supplied from the springs which are so valuable to 
 the town. There were present a Turk of some rank, and an 
 official who was come to collect the tribute. Several Arabs 
 were sitting round with the Bishop's party, forming a semi- 
 circle. The conversation, as far as I could understand, con- 
 sisted of inquiries and comments on the state of Europe. 
 On one side, were two poor men, fakirs, I suppose, who sat 
 on the ground, smoked their pipes, drank coffee after the 
 guests, and occasionally joined in the conversation, but did 
 not seem to be attended to by any one. After a short stay, 
 the Bishop rose, and we left. We returned to David Tanous's. 
 I went to my quarters to attend to some arrangements about 
 my proposed journey, and returned to the party at David's 
 again, where we had an Arab dinner of rice and meat, (pillaf,) 
 the Bishop sitting down and conversing familiarly with Assan 
 Aoudie, Michael, and others. After dinner, we went to look 
 at the school-house, and thence to a spot on the side of Mount 
 Gerizim, under some olive trees, where there is a fine view of 
 the town. In the evening, a young man of good family 
 called upon the Bishop, and afterwards the chief sheik or 
 imaun of the place, who seemed to be a very clever agreeable 
 person, with a considerable amount of conversational power. 
 It is a common custom here to pay visits of ceremony, like 
 English morning calls, in the evening. The Bishop told me 
 that, in the morning, he had had some interesting conversa- 
 tion with some of the Greeks, on the Scriptures. 
 
 " 6th. This morning again, I went down to the Bishop. 
 
232 THE ENVOY. 
 
 I found a number of people in his room, sitting round 
 upon the floor. At his side was the priest of the Samari- 
 tans a small remnant of whom, consisting of about sixty 
 families or houses, still exists in this place. They seem 
 to have been preserved for the purpose of guarding a very 
 valuable ancient manuscript of the Pentateuch, the sole 
 portion of the canon which they receive, as being, in their 
 belief, the only books of divine authority. The priest seemed 
 a benevolent, intelligent man of about eighty years of age. 
 The conversation turned upon Christianity, and he seemed 
 to have stronger convictions than he would allow, that there 
 was truth in the gospel, and falsity in his system. On his 
 departure, the Bishop called on the mutsellim, or governor, 
 he having requested a visit and appointed an interview. I 
 went with the party ; several of the Christians walked with 
 us, as was always the case, as we proceeded from place to 
 place in the town. The governor was sitting in a very 
 dirty room, large and arched, as rooms usually are in this 
 country. The floor was covered with mats, and around was 
 a raised divan on three sides. At one end, on an additional 
 cushion, sat the governor, wearing the turbush and a light 
 Aleppo cloak on his shoulders. The Bishop sat on an extra 
 cushion also at the opposite end of the divan near him, 
 myself and the other Christians took our places. Next to us 
 were some fellaheen sheiks, or chiefs of some of the agricul- 
 tural villages, then the scribe, or clerk, or secretary, who was 
 busy writing, with a number of papers before him, and near 
 him a very fine-looking old man, with a snow-white beard, 
 not very long or bushy, but which well accorded with his fair 
 skin and thin features. He was tall and slight, and wore 
 
THE ENVOY. 233 
 
 a chocolate-coloured robe, with a large Arab shawl formed 
 into a turban. He looked like an aged Samuel or Abraham ; 
 appeared to be in the employment of the governor, and as- 
 sisted the scribe : he was a Samaritan. Next to him was a 
 young man, well-dressed in eastern costume. Several at- 
 tendants stood by the door, and at the side of the governor 
 was a young man also well-dressed, and who seemed a sort 
 of gentleman usher. The scene was novel. All the Moslems 
 sat crossed or squatted in some way, with their feet on the 
 divan. 
 
 " Very little was said ; the governor made a brief remark 
 or two, and then a long silence ensued. Some of the men 
 sitting on the divan got up, and walking across, whispered 
 to the governor for a short time, and then either left the 
 room, or returned to their seats. A few rose and walked 
 out with very little ceremony. Some other guests came in, 
 and took their seats on the divan, among them a young man 
 who sat near the governor. That illustrious personage re- 
 posed upon his cushion with an air of supreme indifference 
 and sovereign contempt. He was a fine-looking fellow, but 
 had a haughty, wilful expression. Lemonade, very sweet, 
 was served as usual in glass cups by an attendant with a 
 muslin-embroidered napkin on his shoulders. Coffee was 
 afterwards brought round. 
 
 " After a considerable time, the governor asked the Bishop 
 if he would like to see his garden; he assented. I was 
 motioned to follow, as was also Abu Hannah, the Bishop's 
 dragoman, and Arabic secretary. In the garden, which was 
 'no great things/ from its neglected state, carpets were 
 spread, and a cushion placed against the tree for the Bishop, 
 
234 THE ENVOY. 
 
 Suleiman Bey also sitting on the carpet. There was much 
 silence the Bey seemed thoughtful. After a time, his 
 brother, Mustapha Bey, came, and David with him. Then 
 followed, for a time, an animated conversation on some of 
 the local politics. It originated from the supposed influence 
 of the Bishop, which these men wished to enlist in their own 
 interest. But these are worldly matters. We endeavoured 
 to turn such opportunities to the best account ; but these 
 interviews were chiefly of a mere formal nature, and the 
 principal use we could make of them was to create a favour- 
 able impression, which might be instrumental in promoting 
 the advantage of the Christians on the spot. 
 
 "Afterwards, we returned the visit of the imaun, and 
 called on a young man, the representative of a once-powerful 
 family the rivals of the present Beys. His large room was 
 very dirty ; the few cushions of his divan were, like their 
 owners, worn and faded. There were many hangers-on in 
 the court. This young man, in common with other Arab 
 Mussulmans, shewed both ignorance and pride in the short 
 conversation we had with him. The Bishop dined at Aoudie's 
 house, and spent some time after dinner in the governor's 
 garden outside the town, where we had a visit from the old 
 imaun before mentioned. In the evening, we returned to 
 David's. Many native Christians were there. The conver- 
 sation turned on fasting and missionary work. 
 
 " 7th. This morning the Bishop visited the school. About 
 thirty children were present, many of them Christians ; and 
 the examination was good. The boys, I thought, did not do 
 quite so well as on the first days I saw them, which can be 
 well accounted for by their minds being a little unsettled by 
 
THE ENVOY. 235 
 
 the greatness of their visitor. The Bishop was very well 
 pleased and, indeed, every one must be with the progress 
 of the lads, and the interest they take in their work. The 
 mode of teaching is decidedly good : the boys are made to 
 tell the histories they read in Scripture out of the book, and 
 in their own words : some were very ready at this exercise. 
 One little boy read remarkably well. It was very striking to 
 hear the children uttering the truth of the Word, while the 
 Mohammedan cawasses of the Pacha of Jerusalem listened 
 in astonishment, their wild appearance, and the pistols in 
 their girdles, contrasting or harmonising I know not which 
 with the earnest interest of the children and their parents, 
 who were equally eastern, in their beards and turbans, or 
 moustache and turbushes. 
 
 "From the school, we went to pay a visit to the old 
 Samaritan mentioned before ; it was his Sabbath. We 
 were received in a room, to which we ascended by many 
 steps ; but it was worth getting to, it was cool and airy, 
 and the cleanest apartment I have seen in any native house. 
 We were attended as usual ; seven or eight Christians entered 
 with us, and several Samaritans came after a time. All ap- 
 peared clean in their person and dress, to a degree I had not 
 seen before. The company sat round, and for a long time 
 there was a discussion on the prophet that was to follow 
 Moses. The Samaritans seemed to argue more for victory, 
 than from any earnest belief in their own dogmas. Their 
 notions on particular subjects of discussion I could not 
 understand. The Bishop was generally silent, but spoke 
 occasionally. The debate was cheerful ; the Samaritans 
 seemed to laugh in triumph at their own ingenuity in raising 
 
236 THE ENVOY. 
 
 difficulties. The Bishop at length entered into the conver- 
 sation, in which hitherto Abu Hannah had taken the most 
 active part. They seemed' to assent to the various propo- 
 sitions he laid down, to become more and more serious, 
 while he shewed the need of a Mediator to fallen man, and 
 went on to declare that that Mediator was the man Christ 
 Jesus. A silence followed. We rose to depart, and visited 
 their church, passing through many dark and narrow ways, 
 as is usual in these towns. It was a common-sized vaulted 
 room, in a court on the ground-floor, and was carpeted 
 throughout. The priest opened the door with much cere- 
 mony that is to say, as if he were doing something most 
 important while every one stayed at a distance. The Arabs 
 all took off their shoes, as usual. Many white cloths, sheets, 
 or surplices lay about. There was a recess covered by a veil 
 of scarlet silk with a white border. On the veil, in gold 
 embroidery, was a representation of different articles of the 
 tabernacle. From behind, they brought out the celebrated 
 manuscript of the Pentateuch, a large roll, on a brass roller, 
 and placed it in a kind of chair to be opened. The priest 
 was asked to read, and he repeated several sentences, for he 
 stood where he could not see. Thence we adjourned to the 
 favourite spot under the olives on the hill-side, where the 
 schoolmaster provided us with an entertainment of rice, &c. 
 Afterwards I rode with the Bishop to Jacob's well and 
 Joseph's tomb. 
 
 "8th (Sunday.) Many thoughts last night about the 
 blessed day. I determined to go again to the Greek church, 
 to shew my friendly disposition to the people. I did not see 
 any superstition, beyond the lighted candles and the practice 
 
THE ENVOY. 237 
 
 of crossing of course, the pictures must always be excepted, 
 though no one kissed or worshipped them, as was the case 
 last Sunday. Many people were present. I clid not discover 
 any prayer to the Virgin. There was little or no devotion 
 or reverence in the service ; the people here have scarcely 
 any idea of either one or the other, and, indeed, in this 
 respect they resemble, for the most part, our Protestant 
 friends. There is yet much for them to learn. 
 
 " From the church I went to David's house, to know what 
 the Bishop would do to-day. Michael had given it as his 
 opinion that it would be better to have a service in Aoudie's 
 house, as there were many Bibles there. The Bishop said he 
 would consult David. I thought it better for him to remain 
 in his own quarters, as more consistent with his position 
 that we and the Bibles should come to him, rather than he 
 to us ; and thus it was arranged. By the time I was there 
 seven A.M. many persons had arrived, amongst them, the 
 Samaritan priest. About ten a good number were assembled. 
 The Psalms for the day were read, with some portion of 
 Scripture, on which the Bishop spoke in Arabic, and was 
 listened to with much attention. Prayers from our Liturgy 
 were also read in Arabic. Before and after the service, a 
 large number was assembled, and much conversation ensued 
 on the subject of Scripture generally and on various par- 
 ticular passages. 
 
 " In the evening the school-children arrived to take their 
 leave. They kissed the Bishop's hand, and received each five 
 piastres. Several poor people, too, came for alms. I left the 
 Bishop about eight, as he intends starting very early in the 
 morning. 
 
238 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " To-night I feel very sleepy and unable to write ; but I 
 cannot conclude this note of an interesting day, without ex- 
 pressing the feeling that I have of the opening amongst these 
 people for the preaching of the gospel. Many have been 
 reading the Bible with interest ; they are most ready to 
 listen to the preached word, and have asked me to remain 
 among them. This would be an important missionary sta- 
 tion. The Bishop was highly pleased with the progress 
 made by the boys and the people generally, in the knowledge 
 of Scripture. 
 
 " Many Mohammedans visited us in the evening, seeking 
 presents. Among them, two musicians came, with their 
 drums. They would not listen to the assurance that the 
 Bishop had no sympathy with their performance, but pro- 
 ceeded to beat upon their instruments. The Bishop quietly 
 got up, and went into his room, which put an end to their 
 music. 
 
 " The elder priest was for some time at David's to-day. I 
 could not help pitying him ; he seemed poor and ignorant, 
 and felt his own inferiority ; at the same time, I think, did 
 not want to set himself directly against us. May the Lord 
 guide many of them and of the people into the way of truth ! 
 
 " 9th. At two o'clock this morning the Bishop left. I 
 went down to David's house to see him off. Early as the hour 
 of starting was, he had quite a cavalcade : two irregular 
 cavalry or cawasses, (one with a long spear,) his own cawass 
 and janisary, his servant and Arabic secretary, and several 
 of the Christians. As I had a long journey before me, I did 
 not go with them, though a fine moonlight ride in this clear 
 climate would have been very pleasant. I lay down for a 
 
THE ENVOY. 239 
 
 while, and then rose to pack up. This business occupies, I 
 usually find, more time than is allowed ; but, however, after 
 all was done, I was enabled to get a few moments of quiet, 
 to humble myself before the Lord, and ask His blessing on 
 my journey. I feel much the want of a knowledge of the 
 language. The people here have shewn me much kindness : 
 would I could have set the truth before them ! there is much 
 simplicity about them." 
 
 THE TKIBES OF THE JORDAN. 
 
 " July 9th, 1849. About eleven, Mnazel, our tall Arab, 
 began to load his camels; he seemed not to know much 
 about putting on our canteen and box of boxes. When I 
 went down, I found the narrow street nearly stopped with 
 our luggage, beds, and tent ; and when the huge camel lay 
 down to be loaded, the way was effectually blocked up. For 
 a while there was great confusion, the camels roaring most 
 hideously, and a number of Turks, or rather Moslem Arabs, 
 talking as loud as they could, some helping to load, others 
 advising. After a great deal of loading and unloading, 
 all was done, and the camels set off. We mounted soon 
 after, and overtook them slowly proceeding just outside the 
 town. 
 
 " We soon met with an adventure characteristic of our 
 journey. I was riding somewhat to the right of our party. 
 We were scarcely a quarter of a mile from the town, when, 
 on looking round, I saw them in parley with two men on 
 horseback. Biding up, I was informed that the strangers 
 said we must not go to Salt, that they would not allow it ; 
 that Mnazel had no right to take us, as he was only a muleteer. 
 
240 THE ENVOY. 
 
 One of them was a sheik, brother to Abdalla Hazis, His name 
 was Gabala. He was the person who always protected the 
 English when they went over the Jordan. We talked of not 
 going at all, of encamping on the spot, and seeking- the 
 governor's aid. At length, after a long altercation and bar- 
 gaining, it was thought better to submit to some imposition 
 than to take the trouble of unpacking the things, and still 
 be obliged to pay for protection, so we agreed to give them 
 two hundred piastres to go to Salt and back again. We 
 accordingly proceeded on our way through a pleasant valley 
 for some time, when, going up a high ascent, we came to the 
 summit of a hill looking down into a very deep ravine. We 
 descended the rugged bank for some time, and then halted 
 for the camels, which were a long way behind. One of the 
 Bedouins came and told me that the camels had gone round 
 the road to avoid the precipitous descent, and gave us the 
 choice of meeting them, or of going to the Arab encampment 
 in the valley. I judged it best to go to meet the camels, as 
 it is a good rule not to be separated too far from the baggage. 
 We descended a little further, and then turned towards the 
 left, riding along the side of the very steep hill, sometimes 
 at the foot of lofty clifts. It now became dark, and we 
 followed the Bedouin at a brisk walk, over rocks and gullies, 
 and steep patches of cultivation, and, at length, reached the 
 road which the camels were supposed to have taken, but 
 after waiting an hour, no signs appeared of them, and we 
 descended to the plain, supposing they must have gone by 
 the same way which we had taken. We rode for some time, 
 soon leaving the track to reach this path by a nearer cut. 
 The moon rose beautifully, discovering the deep valley along 
 
THE ENVOY. 241 
 
 which we were passing. We now brushed through thorns 
 and thistles, and at last sent one of the Arabs on to ascertain 
 if there were any traces of our missing party. He came back 
 with no other information than that they must have passed. 
 We again turned our horses' heads, and after a tedious ride 
 of an hour, we crossed a fine stream, and soon came to an 
 encampment of the black tents of the Arabs. The dogs 
 greeted us warmly, and a dark form rose here and there be- 
 neath the open tents, to look at us as we passed. We wound 
 round the end of the line of tents, formed of a large piece of 
 goat hair cloth, stretched upon poles about four feet and a 
 half high, open, except on one side. To our joy, we found 
 the camels just lying down on the other side. 
 
 "We encamped for the night at about ten o'clock, and 
 did get a little sleep. At daybreak we prepared to depart. 
 Many of the Arabs came and sat round our fire, and looked 
 at us in wonder. I dropped my map of South Syria in the 
 night ride. 
 
 " On the 10th, we started soon after daybreak. At sun- 
 rise, we were in a valley, being a plain of considerable length, 
 and about half or three quarters of a mile in breadth. We 
 rode to the stream to water our horses, and saw that its 
 banks were covered by a beautiful flowery plant, growing 
 like a tree, at six feet from the ground. It bore a leaf and 
 bunch of flowers about the size and colour of the rhododen- 
 dron,* but not exactly like it. We passed a few ascents, 
 and then a steep pass, and came to some very fine plains. 
 Our escort of Arabs increased to ten armed with lances, 
 guns, and pistols, and mounted on good mares. 
 
 * Probably the oleander. 
 
 q 
 
242 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " The advancing day brought increasing heat, until, after 
 some more plains and rocky ground, we came to the brow of 
 a hill, and had a view of the Jordan winding its way between 
 banks of brilliant green, while the plain of about four or five 
 miles wide was of a sterile brown colour. The descent was 
 very steep, and, exposed to the rays of a burning sun, was 
 exceedingly hot. It was tedious, inasmuch as the view from 
 the summit gave the idea that water, with a fresher atmo- 
 sphere, was near ; but, as we descended for a considerable 
 time, the Jordan and its verdant banks seemed at the same 
 distance from us as at first, while in the depths of the valley, 
 relatively the deepest in the world, the heat constantly in- 
 creased. The Dead Sea is more than one thousand feet 
 below the level of the sea, and the valley of the Jordan is 
 here at least seven hundred or eight hundred ; the course of 
 the river is rapid, though not so rapid as where I saw it near 
 Jericho. We crossed at a ford about four feet deep. The 
 Arabs, as soon as they were on the other side, threw off* their 
 cloaks and shirts, and jumped into the water to guide the 
 horses of the stranger through. We lay down and took a 
 little rest in the shade, which was, however, but scanty, the 
 trees being a kind of cedar, young, and with little foliage ; 
 the beautiful green we had seen was chiefly reeds. The 
 banks are very similar on both sides. After the steep 
 mountain of several hundred feet was a bare plain, inter- 
 spersed with green and short hills of earth that seemed 
 capable of growing anything ; then a lower plain of fertile 
 ground, evidently overflowed in spring, in which were several 
 low grasses and shrubs. The Arabs were unwilling to let us 
 remain long. The camels proceeded at once after they came 
 
THE ENVOY. 243 
 
 up, and we were scarcely allowed time to enjoy a bathe ; the 
 alleged reason was that they were afraid of robbers, but I 
 suspect that in reality they wanted to go to some of their 
 friends. We encamped at a little distance, about one hour 
 and a half or two hours' ride from the river Shyria as the 
 Arabs call it. 
 
 " Our camp was near the foot of the high land on the east 
 of the Jordan. We had passed through some good soil 
 covered with thorny plants and shrubs. We were in a field 
 of wheat stubble, the length and size of which shewed the 
 fertility of the spot. The afternoon was very warm. 
 
 " The sheik of the locality came to us, a fine, intelligent- 
 looking man, with much about him of the cunning and 
 readiness of the savage. Gabala, after sitting by us a while, 
 said that travellers usually gave the Arabs a sheep when they 
 crossed the Jordan. A sheep, I understood, would cost them 
 about twenty piastres, so, thinking it best to keep them in 
 good humour, I said I would give them that sum ; this they 
 declined, saying a sheep would be forty piastres. The matter 
 was compromised by my giving thirty piastres, (less than 6s.,) 
 with the .understanding that if the sheep cost more I would 
 give the difference, unless it exceeded forty piastres. I said 
 I would trust their honour in the matter and heard no more 
 of it. I rather think they did not get the sheep. 
 
 " The two sheiks were sitting at the door of the tent in the 
 
 manner of the East. I ordered coffee, and, through S , 
 
 entered into conversation with them. He asked Gabala what 
 the Arabs would have done to us if we had not taken their 
 escort ; they would have robbed us. And you, sheik of the 
 Arabs of the Jordan, what would you have done if you had 
 
244 THE ENVOY. 
 
 found us with only Mnazel ? He coolly replied he would have 
 taken money from us, or not have allowed us to pass. This 
 they did to all travellers who did not pay for protection. 
 We spoke of the will of God of the state after death. The 
 man's answer was that all things were fated, and that true 
 believers would not go to hell ; that he was a servant of God. 
 To this I objected, because he had just admitted that he was 
 in the habit of doing, and was prepared to do, what was con- 
 trary to the will of God. He talked lightly, like a bold 
 infidel, of the danger of hell. My two companions, who 
 spoke Arabic, I am sorry to say did not treat the matter with 
 that solemnity which it should have called forth. I feel 
 deeply concerned for the darkness in which the Moslems are 
 placed, and yet it is far from easy to preach the truth to 
 them. 
 
 "July 14A. I have had some difficulty in keeping up 
 my journal. Part of the foregoing was written at Salt, and 
 I am now continuing it under the shade of some bushes on 
 the summit of the lofty ridge overlooking the plain of the 
 Jordan, whither I came early this morning for the sake of a 
 little quiet, and also to witness the sunrise before the mist is 
 rolled away from the valley. 
 
 " I must resume the account of our journey. I enjoyed a 
 few minutes of solitude the night of our encampment, but I 
 find a want of retirement one of the greatest drawbacks in 
 travelling. I feel that even one person interferes with com- 
 munion with God. 
 
 " At an early hour we began to pack the tent, and the 
 camels came up from the encampment of the previous night. 
 
THE ENVOY. 245 
 
 The sheik of the place had slept by our fire. For some dis- 
 tance after we started, the road lay through the neglected 
 plain. We passed a small mosque or tomb of some Moham- 
 medan saint, and then turned into a valley to enter the high 
 land on the east of Jordan the Land of Gilead. The road 
 was interesting ; the narrow plain, the green bank of a stream, 
 the steep sides of hills, which we soon began to ascend, 
 formed a striking and romantic picture. The ascent was 
 precipitous, and the views we obtained at intervals were 
 wildly picturesque. After the first ridge was gained, we 
 found that the country was changed in its aspect ; there was 
 much moor before us, and we soon entered the forest, at 
 first thinly planted, but becoming denser as we advanced. 
 We saw an Arab camp, from which a sheik rode up and 
 greeted Gabala very warmly ; there were also some Adowans 
 present. We passed in one place a few broken pillars, and 
 the remains of a Roman road, and then struck off into a 
 narrow path on the mountain side. Sometimes the ravine 
 below was so steep that it was unpleasant to look down, with 
 the knowledge that a single false step of the horse might 
 precipitate himself and his rider many hundreds of feet be- 
 fore they could stop rolling over and over. 
 
 "The wooded country was very pleasant, and the cool 
 breeze refreshing in the extreme. We passed a well where one 
 or two savage half-naked men, and two quite naked children, 
 were drawing water in skins, and putting it into a trough 
 for cattle. The Bedouin and myself let our animals drink, 
 for which no remuneration was asked ; they were Bedouins 
 of the same tribe. We soon began to reascend the woody 
 
246 THE ENVOY. 
 
 mountain, and after climbing for some time, came to the 
 spot to which I have returned to-day, for the sake of air and 
 solitude. 
 
 " We reached Salt about one. A Bedouin had gone on 
 before to announce us, and as we arrived in the town or 
 village of mud-built houses, with a few of stone, the people 
 were busy cleaning out heaps of dust from the room we 
 were to occupy. A family had vacated the quarters for our 
 accommodation, and purposed sleeping on the terrace ; but as 
 this open air bivouacking is a frequent summer practice, our 
 compunctions were not so great as they might otherwise 
 have been. We were advised to stay in a house at this 
 place, and not to pitch our tents. 
 
 " The men of the house brought us Arab bread and some 
 milk, of which I partook. We soon had many visitors. 
 
 S and Michael arrived ; the latter was known here 
 
 many greeted him kindly. Some of the Mussulman sheiks 
 called, and the Greek priest, who seemed miserably poor. 
 The man of the house killed a sheep, but a great mistake 
 was made he did not want to invite the people to dinner, and 
 my servant told them rather rudely ' to go out/ For this I 
 was very sorry, I would rather have eaten with them than 
 have wounded their feelings, and appeared haughtily to resist 
 an imaginary extortion which they did not contemplate. 
 After we had dined, one of the visitors returned, and we had 
 a discussion on prayer and fasting. 
 
 " The next morning, we had visitors at an early hour. 
 Gabala came amongst the rest, though he had received his 
 pay for bringing us here. There was not much conversa- 
 tion. S and Michael seemed tired, and I could not 
 
THE ENVOY. 247 
 
 talk without an interpreter. After a little while, there was 
 some bustle outside, and Abdalla Hayis was announced. He 
 is rather a noted sheik of the Adowans, but noted, as far as 
 I can make out, chiefly for conveying travellers safely, and 
 not letting them pass without paying for his protection. He 
 is cousin to Gabala, and is a fine large man. He was dressed 
 like a common Bedouin. Michael seemed to know him ; he 
 gave him a Psalter one of the neat copies issued by the 
 Bible Society. This made the Christians angry they said it 
 was not a book for Mussulmans. We said it was good for 
 all men. After a short stay, the sheik left. It was by his 
 directions that Gabala had taken possession of us. Soon 
 after, some more Bedouins came in, and a little man in Arab 
 dress and boots. I thought he was some distinguished 
 dwarf, but he proved to be the son of Adowa, the chief of 
 the Adowans. I ascertained his dignity afterwards. He 
 
 sat on the carpet by Michael and S . Michael was for 
 
 giving him a Psalter, I objected, as they were wanted for 
 the Christians ; but as he was very anxious on the point, I 
 complied, to his great satisfaction, in the hope that it might 
 be useful. After some time, I went out to go to the school 
 We passed through part of the town, and saw several mares 
 in a sort of stable, and a number of Arabs sitting on the 
 ground. A little further on, we came across a group as- 
 sembled under an awning of black goats' hair, and were in- 
 vited to go and salute Adowa, the head sheik Complying 
 with the request, we found a large party in two rows on 
 carpets and cloaks, the chief in the centre of the inner row. 
 He was a fine-looking man, tall, thin, and fairer than most 
 Bedouins, a very aquiline nose, something like the portraits 
 
248 THE ENVOY. 
 
 I have seen of Sir Charles Napier of Scinde celebrity. He 
 wore a light- coloured gown over the Bedouin long shirt. 
 His son was sitting by him a fine-looking lad, with a good 
 countenance. After a brief interval, coffee was brought to 
 us, and bread and beban to the Arabs. Abdalla and Gabala 
 were near the chief. He produced the Psalter, and asked 
 about it. Michael said it was written by Nebi David, that 
 is, prophet David, and read and explained two or three 
 psalms. The chief seemed pleased. I asked him for the 
 impression of his seal, which he gave me on the leaf of a 
 small note-book given me by my dear friend Gribble. 
 
 "We proceeded to the school under a shed, consisting of 
 an arch resting upon dirty supports. Eight or nine dirty 
 children, dressed in dirty common linen shirts, sat on the 
 dirty floor reading as fast as they could. The schoolmaster 
 was a one-eyed and very ragged and dirty priest. The 
 scholars read badly, and knew nothing of what they read. 
 The priest's house consisted of a couple of arches. The first 
 floor, a large room with a divan. One part was raised three 
 and a half feet from the ground. The lower portion was a 
 stable, the upper the dwelling-house. There was no furni- 
 ture except some dirty cushions. 
 
 " The priest spoke very fiercely ; I do not mean that he 
 was fierce to us, but in manner and look he was wild, and he 
 did not like our questioning the children. He tried to 
 answer when they did not, and said that the kingdom of 
 heaven was prayer and fasting a very common expression 
 with the people here. 
 
 " In the afternoon, I rode up to a tree near the town to 
 see if there was a place for the tent, as the situation looked 
 
THE ENVOY. 249 
 
 promising. I found the ascent very steep, and the level 
 space too small. Afterwards, I went to the ruins of the 
 citadel, which had been destroyed by Ibrahim Pasha. Our 
 Arab attendant, and the brother of our host, who was with 
 us, had taken opposite sides on the occasion ; the Adowans 
 having acted as allies to Ibrahim Pasha. On our inquiring 
 about the matter, they gave an account with some humour. 
 I asked them if they were not very glad they had not shot 
 each other; though they laughed together, I thought they 
 assented coldly. We descended, and passed through a new 
 quarter of the town. All the women were dressed alike, in 
 ample garments of blue cotton, their hair veils over their 
 faces, and slightly tatooed. In the middle of the day, there 
 was an alarm. Several Arabs of our party came in hastily 
 and said that they were going to war, as a message had come 
 that the Beni Saka had fallen upon their camels. They 
 departed hastily and cheerfully. It was a fine sight to see 
 these wild-looking fellows setting off at a brisk canter one 
 after another with their lances and guns. Soon several foot- 
 men were seen running along, and ascending the hill-side with 
 their guns ; these were the townsmen, who were going out 
 to assist their allies. I felt a great inclination to go and see 
 what they were about, but was told the distance was very 
 great. I could not help feeling sorrow for these poor fellows, 
 who were hurrying off to battle, perhaps to death, as I thought 
 of their souls. In the evening, some of the villagers re- 
 turned, and said that it was a false alarm. 
 
 " Our room had a good many visitors in the evening, but 
 it was difficult to converse with them. The son of one of 
 the priests, a lad of sixteen or seventeen, teased me greatly 
 
250 THE ENVOY. 
 
 for a Psalter. I did not want to give them until I had seen 
 to whom they could be presented with most advantage. 
 Some of the elder people shew themselves very childish ; 
 they will only listen to reading for a very short time, and 
 then turn to something else. They have an idea that we 
 want to make them English, and that they will be free from 
 taxation by this means. The Turk and Christian are willing 
 to consent to this if we will make them a handsome present. 
 
 S has several times had to tell them of this error, and 
 
 to explain our object in seeking to establish a school. 
 
 "On the 13th, I went again to the school, and expressed 
 my wish to examine the children for the purpose of shewing 
 others how to do so. There were many persons present, 
 some Moslems. The priest declined, and offered that we 
 should examine his boy and another of the same age. I 
 
 made them read the first psalm, and told S to ask only 
 
 the simplest questions. They had never been accustomed to 
 think, and the priest again helped them out, and that not 
 always correctly. One of the sheiks complained of my ser- 
 vant having told them to go out the first evening that I 
 came : for this I had reproved him. He said it was by 
 orders of the master of the house, who did not want to give 
 them to eat; they had gone out quickly. I explained it as 
 a mistake, and said that I should have been happy to have 
 eaten with them all. 
 
 " Abdalla Hazis spoke to S of the object of my visit. 
 
 It seems difficult to persuade them that we have not some 
 concealed political design. This sheik appears to be a man 
 of good sense, and censured the ill manners of the people in 
 crowding about us and teasing us, as some of them did. 
 
THE ENVOY. 251 
 
 "I have felt greatly the want of solitude, and in the 
 morning went out to the mountain-side, and enjoyed again, 
 under an olive tree, some moments of quiet, and of prayer 
 for the people here and far away. * 
 
 "This morning, the 14th, I went early to the mountain 
 called Nebi Hoshea, where is a mosque, and the supposed 
 tomb of the prophet Hosea. This is on the road to the 
 fords of the Jordan, and commands a magnificent view, em- 
 bracing Mount Hermon, (Djebel Sheik, in Arabic,) Mount 
 Gerizim, and Mount Ebal, between which could be dis- 
 tinguished, with the glass, the houses of Nablous standing 
 among the trees, and to the south-west the Mount of Olives, 
 recognised through the glass by the building on the top. 
 
 " Here I arrived some time before any one else, and found 
 myself alone with my God, perhaps on one of 'the high 
 places' of Israel The plain of Jordan was beneath me, 
 arid and brown, the course of the river marked by the dark 
 colour of the verdure on either side, which, from here, as 
 from the Mount of Olives, appears like a deep shadow. I 
 endeavoured also to spend some time in writing quietly, a 
 thing I have great difficulty in accomplishing in our room, 
 as the people are constantly crowding about us, and talking 
 very loudly. On going to join the party, I found that be- 
 sides S and Michael, whom I expected, there were also 
 
 three of the native Christians who had called on us the 
 
 night before. I desired S to converse with them on the 
 
 subject of the school. 
 
 " I remained with them a little time, and took a frugal meal 
 
 * Some, as they read this simple extract, may remember Him who 
 " went up into a mountain apart to pray." 
 
252 THE ENVOY. 
 
 of bread, cheese, and cucumbers. After resting for an hour 
 or more in the shade of the trees and rocks, I returned to 
 the rest of the party, who were sitting under a beautiful 
 oak.* I found my companions all asleep certainly very 
 agreeable company ! They awoke soon after I came up to 
 them, and seemed quite ready to go back to the town. 
 
 S said he had not been able to get them to talk about 
 
 the school, they always turned to something else ; they had 
 but one idea to become English, and so get rid of tribute. 
 
 " We returned before noon. In the afternoon, Abbas, the 
 Christian sheik, at whose house I am staying, returned. He 
 is a small man, with a quick black eye, and from his manner 
 with those about him, appears of a more passionate temper 
 than is general with Arabs. I was disappointed in finding 
 that he had not much more sense than the rest of his people. 
 He is an Arab trader, and travels to the various encamp- 
 ments, exchanging handkerchiefs, and various articles for 
 sheep, goats, &c. 
 
 " I distributed the Psalters this evening. There was some 
 difficulty in arranging the claims of the various candidates, 
 and many tears were shed by the disappointed. Other books 
 and tracts were despised and refused ; some were brought 
 back after having been given. Most of the people seemed 
 to have Bibles, though I saw no indications of any one's 
 having read them. Two brothers of my host wanted Psalters 
 very badly, so I indulged them. The pretty binding and 
 small size seemed the attraction. Some of the Arabs wanted 
 a few as well. 
 
 * The oaks here differ from the English tree in leaf; but in general 
 form and aspect, they closely resemble them. 
 
THE ENVOY. 253 
 
 In the evening, some persons came in, with whom 
 had a conversation on Scripture. He is not so 
 
 decided and clear in stating the truth of the gospel as I 
 could wish. 
 
 "July loth, (Sunday.') Felt much that I am sojourning 
 in the tents of Kedar. Went to the service in the morning 
 at six o'clock. A good many people in our church. 
 
 " I stood amongst them during the service, and prayed 
 for the people, that God would send them the light of the 
 gospel. They were anxious to assign me the place of a 
 priest, and at the giving of the bread at the Agape, the 
 priest made me take it off the plate. The church was 
 dirty, but as good as, or even better than some of the 
 churches I have seen in Wales or in Yorkshire. 
 
 " Our host had insisted on killing a sheep for us ; I had 
 begged to decline this, but in vain. At length, remembering 
 that our Saviour went into the house of a Pharisee ' to eat 
 bread on the Sabbath-day/ I gave way, and shared their 
 repast. * 
 
 " Soon after service, persons began to assemble, and ere 
 long, the room was full Mussulmans and Christians squat- 
 ting round on mats and carpets. After the usual allowance 
 of rice, a preparation of wheat and flesh made its appearance, 
 round which the visitors clustered, and when it was gone, 
 most of them were gone also. A few remained behind to 
 smoke, and drink a cup of coffee, and then took their de- 
 parture. 
 
 * This expression, " to eat bread," need not imply a banquet, but pos- 
 sibly the simple act described, as it is a common thing in the East for 
 people to set before their visitors a straw mat with bread on it, and a bowl 
 of milk in the centre. 
 
254 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " The Christians did not meet, as I had hoped, to discuss 
 the matter of a school. One man wanted to become English 
 or a Protestant, that he might marry a second wife, his 
 present not having children. If he cannot effect his pur- 
 pose otherwise, he says he will become a Turk. He has 
 been told he cannot become English, and that, as a Protest- 
 ant, he could not be allowed two wives, or to put away one 
 for the cause he alleges. Again and again we have had to 
 tell the people we have no political design, that we desire 
 only their good. They look disappointed, and often stare 
 incredulously. 
 
 " In the afternoon, for the sake of being alone, and enjoying 
 a little quiet, I went to the top of a steep hill opposite the 
 
 village. S went with me ; also a brother-in-law of my 
 
 host, and the wild son of the wild priest. These two very 
 civilly and kindly shewed us the best ways up the precipitous 
 sides of the ascent. 
 
 " S went under a tree. I sat on a rock, and took first 
 
 a little hymn-book of the Tract Society that I had been in the 
 habit of using at Low Bridge, Knaresborough, and read 
 a few hymns. The two natives came and sat one on each 
 side of me. I read aloud, determined not to mind them. 
 They asked what I read ; I said a book of praise to God, 
 like a Psalter. I could not tell them why I wished to be 
 alone, at least so as to make them understand it. Some of 
 the hymns affected me very much, almost to tears. I en- 
 deavoured to tell them how I loved the Sabbath-day, and 
 how I thought of my friends far away, who were then at- 
 tending the house of God, and, perhaps, thinking of me 
 among the Arabs ; Atallah seemed to understand me, and 
 
TEE ENVOY. 255 
 
 was softened, and the Naami was quieted. I left them my 
 telescope, and retired from them a little way. I can now 
 well understand why our Lord retired so often into a moun- 
 tain to pray. 
 
 " One hymn which met my eye was strikingly applicable 
 in this place 
 
 ' O'er the gloomy hills of darkness, 
 Look, my soul, be still, and gaze ; 
 All the promises do travail, 
 With a glorious day of grace.' 
 
 " It was hard to realise the ' day of grace ' and ' blessed 
 jubilee ' in the darkness, petty, jealous selfishness and greedy 
 avarice I was witnessing around me. Each seems jealous 
 of the other. One man cannot bear you to go to the house 
 of another lest you should bestow your bounty there instead 
 of upon him. You cannot open a box without people look- 
 ing into it to see what you are doing and what you have got. 
 Yet, is it strange ? The race is still barbarous, with sufficient 
 knowledge of civilisation to understand the value of money, 
 and to covet it for its worth's sake. The Arabs betray their 
 feelings more than the North Americans, and might be com- 
 pared to the traders of St Louis, and the whites of the far 
 West. I prayed that the Lord would send His Spirit upon 
 them, trusting that He might have a people amongst them. 
 
 " About sunset, we came down into the plain. The town 
 of mud-houses or mud-coloured and mud-covered stones and 
 dark arches, with flocks of black goats crowding round or 
 collected in yards, or even on the roofs of some of the 
 dwellings, made a very singular view. There seems to be an 
 abundance of goats here. 
 
256 THE ENVOY. 
 
 "16th. This day I purposed paying a visit to the en- 
 campment or place of Gabalan, which was about eleven or 
 twelve miles off a ride of three hours and a quarter at our 
 rate of progress, We set off at about six A.M. The road was 
 at first mountainous, and diversified with vines and rocks. 
 Afterwards, wooded hills rose up on one side with a steep 
 descent on the other. We passed a village of houses without 
 inhabitants, a ravine, and a stream with the beautiful pink 
 oleander and some reeds on its bank. We then mounted a 
 very steep ascent and dangerous rocky path, and came in 
 sight of another valley with still more sloping sides sides 
 bare of all foliage scattered here and there with fragments 
 of rock the soil arid and brown. Here were three separate 
 encampments or parties of Bedouins, though at first I only 
 saw two ; one consisted of a good many tents, the other 
 close at hand, of a much smaller number. All were disposed 
 in a square form made of black goat's hair, and well sup- 
 ported with cords. A few horses had been saddled and 
 picketed near them, and spears were sticking in the ground. 
 
 S and M were not with me ; they dreaded some 
 
 possible difficulty in visiting the Bedouins, or some extrava- 
 gant demands on their part for a present. Abbas wanted to 
 put off going until I should go to Djerach, but my visiting 
 that place was uncertain, and as I had said I would set off, 
 there did not seem any reason for delay ; so, seeking the 
 Lord's direction, I had started, accompanied by Abbas, Joseph, 
 my servant, who speaks a little English, and the syce to look 
 after my troublesome horse. We had also Salem, a Bedouin, 
 who has been attached to us as a sort of guard of honour, and 
 who seems to be a very civil faithful fellow. 
 
THE ENVOY. 257 
 
 "As we passed through the woodlands, we met several 
 Arabs, one on horseback with a long spear. When I was 
 some distance in advance of the party, my horse became 
 troublesome. As I turned round a bush out of the road, 
 another Arab met me, also with a lance, having turned 
 for the purpose so as to prevent my evading him, star- 
 ing very ominously as I rode quietly past. They halted 
 and gazed after the audacious Frank, who was posting 
 on alone through their country. The party soon came in 
 sight, and after some conversation they went on their way. 
 I must say that I felt a little nervous at visiting thus by 
 myself the habitations of these independent wanderers who, 
 having no villages to destroy, and no riches to reward a 
 conqueror, set pachas and irregulars at defiance. The square 
 black tents are not imposing in their appearance, but the 
 goat's-hair cloth, which is pervious to the light, keeps out the 
 rain, and affords a good shade. Under one of these were a 
 good many Arabs, one or two of their sheiks, some very 
 ferocious-looking old men with dark faces and gray beards. 
 The Arab is generally very swarthy, but not black, and wears 
 a black glossy beard. We were entertained with pipes and 
 coffee, and some dishes or wooden bowls containing thin 
 flakes of bread of wheaten meal as a sort of lining, and in 
 them a quantity of boiled mutton and broth. We ate with 
 our hands, and I thought the mess very good. One of the 
 Arabs, Salem, our attendant, had begged a book for a relation 
 who could read. He was anxious to get the little gilt Psalter 
 of the Bible Society, but I had none to give. I gave a book 
 of Scripture lessons, and a New Testament, and one or two 
 small books ; very many were anxious for books. I pre- 
 
258 THE ENVOY. 
 
 / 
 
 sented Gabala with a handkerchief and pair of scissors for 
 his bride, to whom he had been married the night before ; he 
 looked rather blank, until it was explained that this was for 
 the harem. I then walked round the camp, and looked at 
 the mares some of them were good. I promised to send a 
 Psalter to Megaba, son of Ognad. I returned by another 
 road, through a good deal of picturesque scenery, and a fine 
 wooded valley. 
 
 " Arrived about three at Salt. S had had visitors dur- 
 ing my absence. Dewab, chief of the Adowans, had called, 
 and with him Mahmoud, an impertinent Mohammedan 
 sheik. They had insisted on having a dinner at my expense. 
 
 Mahmoud took away a tobacco bag from S . Michael 
 
 said that Dewab intended to make me give him a present, 
 
 and that he would attack me on the road. S had not 
 
 had much conversation with any of .them respecting the 
 school. They still harped upon the same story pay our 
 tribute, make us a present, and we will become English. 
 This evening a rather intelligent man, a goldsmith, called, 
 who seemed to have read the Bible attentively, but, on in- 
 quiry, it turned out that he was a very inconsistent charac- 
 ter, and had been given to drinking. I felt rather unwell ; 
 was seized with cold and shivering, so, suspecting fever, I 
 took some simple remedies, and lay down. I tried to sleep. 
 The people kept quiet, and shewed much kindly feeling. 
 
 " VI th, (Tuesday) Felt feverish and unwell, and resolved 
 to keep quiet. Mahmoud called while we were at breakfast. 
 We received him very coolly. He asked why we did not 
 wish him good morning ; we said because he did not know 
 
THE ENVOY. 259 
 
 how to behave himself; he soon left. Afterwards, sheik 
 Dewab and his son came. I felt under some apprehension 
 lest he should make some unreasonable demands, but com- 
 mitted my concerns to the Lord, and felt that I was in His 
 keeping, and that all would be right. He soon took his 
 departure, and I heard no more of him. As I was unwell, 
 the people were asked to be quiet and not to talk so loud, 
 but our host Joseph and Abbas had a great quarrel, in 
 which much angry feeling was shewn on both sides. I 
 
 begged them to desist. S spoke of the sin of such 
 
 doings. In the evening I felt better. 
 
 " 18^. Finding that I could do no good here, I decided 
 to go with the kefle or caravan to-morrow, and dismissed the 
 Arabs, paying them the sum agreed upon for bringing me to 
 this place and back to Nablous, and arranging that one or 
 two should accompany me to Nablous. I had been anxious 
 to visit the two principal Turkish sheiks, but many objec- 
 tions were made. I wanted S to go and say that I had 
 
 not accepted the invitation of any of them, because I felt 
 that had I done so I should have been obliged to follow 
 the same course in all cases that I could not afford to pay 
 for so many sheep, and that I was not of sufficient importance 
 to have sheep killed for me every day. Abbas said that if 
 he went with this message the people would say that I had 
 given him a great deal of money, and added that it would be 
 best for every one to see what I gave ; so at last I consented 
 to their coining, though I thought that this was the surest 
 way to arouse their expectations. Abbas had brought many 
 stories about the demands of the Turkish sheiks for presents 
 
260 THE ENVOY. 
 
 for opening a school first three hundred piastres a piece, 
 then eighty, then one hundred among six ; all these I treated 
 as ridiculous. 
 
 " I omitted to mention that among our visitors, a day or 
 two previous, was a Mohammedan dervis or saint, who said 
 he ate nothing but earth, and that he could cast out devils 
 a power which the priests also assume. We told him we 
 refused to believe his pretensions, at which he did not seem 
 greatly offended. 
 
 " Three of the Mohammedan sheiks arrived to-day. We 
 told them that our object in visiting Salt was to see the dis- 
 position of the people towards the Word of God, and what 
 good could be done to their souls, and endeavoured to con- 
 vince them of the absurdity of the report that had been 
 spread that we had come for the purpose of making them 
 English. There were various rumours as to whether the 
 kefle or caravan would go to-morrow or not. 
 
 " Our room full in the evening. Packed up my things. 
 Left six Bibles with Michael brought six back seven had 
 been given away. The conversation turned on the Word of 
 God, but was not very profitable. 
 
 "19/i. Very early this morning heard flocks of goats 
 being driven along this was part of the caravan. Could 
 not sleep got up before light, but found no preparation for 
 departure. At about seven it was announced that the cara- 
 van would not go to-day. Feeling weak, I went out, for the 
 sake of quiet, to a large tree, under which I rested for some 
 time. Was much cast down for the people who were in 
 darkness, and amongst whom we had not been able to speak 
 of Christ as I could have wished. 
 
THE ENVOY. 261 
 
 " At eleven o'clock, it was said that the kefle would go. We 
 started at one, after having had a good deal of trouble in 
 loading the mules. Abbas, his uncle, and Salach came with us 
 a little way. I was better pleased with them on leaving, and 
 they shewed more kindness and less rapacity than I expected. 
 
 " We rode about four hours, descending gradually towards 
 the valley of the Jordan, with a mingled company of camels, 
 donkeys, and their drivers, sheep and goats, and halted about 
 five P.M. in a valley, where we lay down without pitching 
 the tent. 
 
 "20th Set off about 2.30 A.M. in the dark, camels and 
 all. About daybreak we came to the plain of the Jordan, 
 and crossed the river soon after sunrise. The plain was 
 good. Seeing the remains of a long straight wall, I thought 
 it might have been the fence of a sugar plantation which 
 I had heard was once here. Saw a singular formation 
 strongly impregnated with salt, and a small streamlet which 
 had a good deal of salt lying near it. 
 
 " Passed from the Jordan to a fine plain again, the lands 
 of Emir Schaby, whom we had seen at Abubedich. Near us 
 was a high conical mountain, very steep, with caves near the 
 summit. Kested by a small stream for two hours, and as- 
 cended gradually to the mountain country through the val- 
 leys. Halted at four near Bait Pouri. The sheik brought 
 us bread, water-melons, and coffee. A small part of the 
 kefle halted with us. Many of the villagers came and sat at 
 the door of the tent. Here was an opportunity of preaching 
 the gospel, but S seemed tired of speaking to Moslems. 
 
 " 24/i. I set off this morning at four, to go to Jerusalem, 
 leaving S to go to Nablous. I arrived at about five in 
 
262 THE ENVOY. 
 
 the evening, not much fatigued, thankful to have returned, 
 and very comfortable in Mrs M 's clean house." 
 
 Some months later, he again mentions the people of Salt. 
 After this visit, a school was opened there by the Bishop of 
 Jerusalem, under a native teacher. It was well attended, 
 and at the time it was first opened, a number of Mussulman 
 children came. The following account of the proceedings at 
 that place may be added in Mr Bowen's own words : 
 
 "January 1850. .... Some of the people of Salt 
 called on me at Jerusalem. They seemed glad to see me. 
 They told me that the patriarch had advanced the people 
 ten thousand piastres, 100, to give up their connexion with 
 the English^ and engaged to keep open the school with the 
 same teacher and books that were supplied by the Bishop of 
 Jerusalem. For this favour, they declare themselves to be 
 indebted to us. When the school was opened, forty Mussul- 
 man children came, but I understood they had been with- 
 drawn since it was handed over to the Greeks. 
 
 " These men also told me a story concerning St George 
 (a great saint amongst the Arabs of the Greek Church,) who 
 struck one of the priests at Salt, so that he died a few days 
 afterwards, affirming that Mar Girgias had killed him. How- 
 ever that might be, the fact that this man had fallen out with 
 the 'Shamers' a sort of archdeacon or rural deacon who 
 was over at Salt at the time was not without its signifi- 
 cance. From this venerable dignitary were to be gathered 
 the leading particulars concerning the performances of the 
 saint, who, according to him, had appeared on two occasions 
 
THE ENVOY. 263 
 
 at the east end of two different churches at Salt. My infor- 
 mant firmly believed the tale. My visitors were quite 
 Bedouins in dress and habits, except that they lived in a vil- 
 lage instead of in tents. They told me that some Christians 
 of the Djebel Agalour (the country of Decapolis) wished me 
 to visit them, and would have sent to Salt to bring me 
 to them had they known of my being there in time. They 
 must have heard of me through the Arabs who had received 
 books from me. 
 
 " It is at present interesting to notice the commencement 
 of social improvement in South Syria. The country is now 
 safe for travellers ; and along the frontier of the Jordan, and 
 far towards the interior, there is peace between the Arab 
 tribes. I should much like, in returning from Mosul, to re- 
 visit many places in Syria, and cultivate increased acquaint- 
 ance with the Arabs. 
 
 TIBERIAS, HASHBEYA, THE LEBANON, ETC. 
 
 "July 26th, 1849. Packing my books this morning; 
 and at four P.M., set out on my journey back to Nablous. 
 Travelled till nine ; fine moonlight. Slept on the ground 
 under my plaid, and was very comfortable, but wakeful on 
 account of the horses. My horse got loose in the night. 
 
 " 27th. Set off at four A.M. Felt rather unwell. Halted 
 at nine under the olives at Howara, and reached Nablous at 
 half- past eleven Was greeted by the Mohammedan children 
 more loudly than usual with their insulting cries. Found 
 S at Aoudie's reading Arabic. He had had some con- 
 versation with the people on the doctrine of justification by 
 faith. 
 
264 . THE ENVOY. 
 
 " I felt very tired and unable to talk, being overcome with 
 sleep ; sorry to find that there are little petty jealousies 
 likely to trouble the people here. May the mercy of the Lord 
 preserve them from the snares of Satan ! 
 
 " 28th. I am thankful for a good night's rest, though I do 
 not feel very strong for undertaking a long journey. David 
 Tanous called. I gave Aoudie two Bibles for Rephidie, a 
 couple of Psalters, two Robinson Crusoes, Proofs of Doctrine, 
 some writing paper for the school, two lives of Martin Luther. 
 I paid him one hundred and twenty piastres, and his wife 
 twenty, for a week's lodging for S - and myself, but he 
 did not seem quite satisfied. 
 
 ' Started about ten. Road hilly, but after passing Mount 
 Ebal the hills were not very steep. Weather hot, and, 
 towards evening, the flies very troublesome to the horses. 
 Reached Jenin about five, and encamped on a low spot of 
 ground in a garden. Near us lay two Indians on a pilgrimage 
 to Jerusalem. Jenin is at the entrance of the south side of 
 the plain of Esdraelon, which lay spread out before us, 
 covered with patches of verdant green. I am thankful for 
 having felt well to-day, and not been incommoded by the 
 heat. The owner of the garden sleeps in it every night. 
 
 " 29^, (Sunday.) Rose early ; the prospect of a tranquil 
 Sabbath was very pleasing. Spread my carpet at a little 
 distance from the tent under a mulberry tree, and enjoyed 
 some quiet. After breakfast read some of the service with 
 S , and returned to my mulberry tree. How many com- 
 mon mercies we enjoy ! The air in the shade was most 
 pleasant. Fruit was very cheap here. About ten, we set 
 out on a visit to Birkean, a village between two and three 
 
THE ENVOY. 265 
 
 miles off, where there are several Christians ; we had a letter 
 from Assan Aoudie to them. Jacob Jeber, an old man, with 
 his nephew, came in the morning to our tent, so we had him 
 as our guide. I took three Bibles, and some other books. A 
 few persons soon collected in the room, and among them the 
 priest. The conversation was first on schools ; the priest 
 spoke favourably of having a school supported by the 
 English. They alluded to Sir M. Montefiore ; he has the 
 
 name here of the enricher of the world. I desired S to 
 
 set them right as to the true enricher of the world. Bap- 
 tism was mentioned, and immersion as used by the Greeks 
 in opposition to the ceremony of sprinkling adopted by the 
 Western Churches. I directed their minds to the question 
 of real importance connected with baptism the new birth, 
 and the baptism of the Spirit, (John iii. ; Eph. ii. ; 1 Cor. 
 v.) The hour's conversation was rather long and loud ; 
 the people seemed pleased to listen, and to all appearance 
 were not much distressed when the priest was worsted in the 
 argument. He contended that all children were born again, 
 and asked us whether we did not consider that every bap- 
 tized child was regenerate ; S seemed posed, and 
 wanted me to answer this question instead of proposing an- 
 other. ' Won't you answer his question?' said he. 'No;' 
 I said, ' I will make him answer it himself. Scripture says 
 that such and such things are the result of being a new 
 creature in Christ ; do you see the fruits in all who are 
 baptized?' He confessed he did not. Afterwards, one of 
 the party read John iii 4. At the words, ' God is a Spirit,' 
 I stopped the reader, and desired him to think of the meaning 
 of the verse, and the importance of being a Christian not 
 
266 THE ENVOY. 
 
 merely in name but in truth. Where are such to be found ? 
 I asked. Their numbers are indeed few. What says our 
 Lord even to those few ? ' Strive ye.' All seemed attentive, 
 and, for a time, appeared to listen with earnestness. This 
 was one of those moments in which a preacher would have 
 understood how to make an impression, but it is difficult to 
 
 do this through an interpreter, and S did not seem to 
 
 know how to take hold of it. We gave three Bibles one to 
 the priest's son, one to a man who can read well, and another 
 to the schoolmaster, who seemed rather an intelligent man ; 
 we supplied him also with a couple of catechisms and small 
 tracts. The lad who had brought us was very anxious to get 
 a Bible. We said we would give him either a Bible or a 
 Psalter. He said he had three Psalters, and there were 
 plenty in the village. This proved to be untrue, and I gave 
 the Bible intended for him to another, making it an occasion 
 of giving a lecture on lying, but as they are not taught the 
 enormity of the sin I thought it best to be lenient, and on 
 his leaving the camp I supplied him with a Bible for himself, 
 three Psalters for different persons, a first Scripture catechism, 
 and a life of Luther for the priest. The latter called after- 
 wards, and sat a little while with us. He was very friendly, 
 and acknowledged the ignorance which prevailed in the place. 
 "About eight o'clock, we set off to avoid the heat and 
 flies, so troublesome during the day. The moon was bright 
 until nearly one, when we entered the mountains. After 
 blundering a little in the dark, we reached a suitable spot 
 for a camp, near the wall of Nazareth. We soon lay down 
 to sleep. I had many thoughts of Jesus, Who was here so 
 long. 
 
THE ENVOY. 267 
 
 "20th. As I lay in my tent rather late this morning, 
 Elias of Nablous passed by, and came and spoke to us. Soon 
 afterwards, he brought me a present of apples from Damas- 
 cus. About ten, I went into the little town to see Jacob 
 Farrahh, for whom I had a letter from Assan Aoudie of 
 Nablous. Elias went with us. We found the old man in 
 his shop he is a sort of doctor and apothecary, and sells 
 medicine. He has a light blue eye, an intelligent look, and 
 gray beard ; his manner was simple and pleasing. We went 
 to his house ; the room was common enough, but we were 
 kindly entertained. His son-in-law, Georgis, had been inter- 
 preter to the Latin convent. We were told that fifty families 
 wished to become Protestant, and were anxious to have a 
 school. As far as I could learn, their reasons seemed to be 
 that they were dissatisfied with the Greek Church, and 
 wanted a better education. It appeared, too, that there was a 
 party amongst them in consequence of Georgis's quarrel with 
 the convent. They were anxious to separate from the Greek 
 Church, they said ; they could not join in its worship. They 
 spoke of knowing that Protestantism was founded upon the 
 Word of God, and said that the priest did not come to them 
 with, ' Thus saith the Lord/ but with, 'Thus saith Augustine, 
 Bartholomew/ &c. Complaining of having no teacher, they 
 asked my advice about leaving the worship of the Church, 
 and meeting together on the Sabbath. I felt that their 
 condition was trying. True, they had very little light, and 
 they hardly knew what they were aiming at, but still they 
 longed for something better than what they already possessed, 
 and this suggested an opportunity of preaching the gospel 
 amongst them, were there an instrumentality for the purpose. 
 
268 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " Many books had been formerly burnt in this country, 
 but now the people were not so much afraid of the priests. 
 
 " The Greek convent at Jerusalem and the eastern patri- 
 arch have recently built a fine schoolroom here. I went 
 into it. The teachers are three priests ; two of them were 
 asleep when we entered. One class was learning Greek. 
 Georgis came down to the tent with us. I gave him a Bible 
 and some other books. To Jacob Farrahh I gave a Church 
 History. 
 
 " I determined to stop the night in the tent. We walked 
 up the hills, and after a while, leaving my friends, I spent 
 some time alone. At first I felt as though Jesus must be 
 peculiarly present here, but this was fancy. He was as 
 much, nay, to me He was even more, present when He made 
 Himself known to me in the woods of America. The view 
 from the hills was fine. I thought of many of my distant 
 
 friends, and read in the Bible given me by dear Mrs A 
 
 of Knaresborough. 
 
 " Old Farrahh paid us a visit again this evening. He 
 
 talked a good deal with S , but I was informed of but 
 
 little that passed. 
 
 " We are encamped under some olive-trees, near the well. 
 Many women are constantly passing and repassing. carrying 
 water, which is brought in large jars upon their heads, and 
 is carried up hill. Though their work is so hard, they walk 
 remarkably well, with a carriage so upright, and a step so 
 firm, bold, and active, that they might perhaps be thought 
 masculine. 
 
 " 31 st. Sought solitude under a fig-tree. Found that 
 there was, just on the other side of a high fence of prickly 
 
THE ENVOY. 269 
 
 pears, a much better place for encamping than the one we 
 occupied. Elias came to me. I endeavoured to talk to him 
 a little of the holiness that becomes a Christian life. 
 
 " Soon after breakfast, Jacob Farrahh came down. He is 
 a talkative old man. We went to his house, and afterwards 
 to the house of Georgis. This man had been interpreter to 
 the convent, and spoke and read Italian. I gave him also 
 an Italian Testament in order that, by comparing the two 
 languages, he might be enabled to understand better. He 
 had a fine large room in his house. His wife was a daughter 
 of Jacob Farrahh. She could read, which is a rare thing 
 among the Syrian women, and had taught her daughter. A 
 poor, ignorant man came to tell me that the people of the 
 convent had doubled his tribute to the Government since he 
 had said he would become a Protestant.* To my question 
 why he wished to change his religion he replied that he 
 wanted to follow Georgis. There were other indications of 
 a desire to form a party for this man, who appears to be 
 rather a designing fellow, and aggrieved by the convent's 
 having discharged him. 
 
 "We returned to the house of Jacob Farrahh. I said I 
 should like to see some of the others who wished to become 
 Protestant. Some were away, some were afraid of declaring 
 themselves, lest the convents should oppress them. I gave a 
 
 Bible to F - J 's brother, and some piastres to the 
 
 women and children, which they were very ready to take. 
 
 " Georgis had read his Bible last night, and this morning, 
 from the beginning to Exodus xiii. I told him he was read- 
 
 * The convents exercise a sort of civic rule over their respective com- 
 munities, and stand between them and the Government. 
 
270 THE ENVOY. 
 
 ing too fast. He said he would read it again more leisurely. 
 I told him that the Bible should be read not only from be- 
 ginning to end two or three times, but a portion of it con- 
 stantly. I added, that when we read it in a spirit of prayer, 
 we might feel that in that Word God was conversing with 
 us. The impression on my mind on leaving this place is, 
 that there is an open door here ; the people are ignorant of 
 the truth, but many of them would be thankful for better 
 knowledge than they at present possess ; and there would be 
 plenty who would listen readily to a missionary or a Scrip- 
 ture-reader. It is also an important place, and exercises 
 considerable influence on many Christian villages round. 
 There are about four thousand Christians here, according to 
 their own account, sixty Maronite families, sixty Greek 
 Catholic, one hundred and twenty Latin, two hundred and 
 forty Greek Church. I gave away some small books, which 
 were thankfully received, but there seemed a great anxiety 
 for Psalters ; as I had very few of them, I only left one with 
 my host for his grandson. 
 
 " At 3 P.M. we set off. We found, on going down to the 
 encampment, that the tent had been struck, and all was 
 ready for starting. We passed a large village, called Rana, 
 about half-an-hour from Nazareth ; the people here were all 
 Christians ; alas ! that theirs should be but a nominal pro- 
 fession ! Passing over another hill, we came in sight of a 
 village on the side of an opposite slope, rather more scattered 
 than villages in this country generally are. Being in ad- 
 vance of the party, I asked a young woman, whom I over- 
 took on the road with some companions younger than her- 
 self, what was its name ; she replied, ' Cana Gilleal,' (Cana 
 
THE ENVOY. 271 
 
 of Galilee.) There was something of pleasure in the tone in 
 which she spoke, as if she thought she was giving interesting 
 information. ' Are you a Christian ? ' I inquired. ' Do you 
 live in the village ? ' ' Yes,' she replied ; ' all are Chris- 
 tians there.' ' Do you know,' I added, ' what remarkable 
 thing was done there ? ' ' The water/ she said, ' was made 
 wine/ I endeavoured to read the passage in an Arabic 
 Testament, which was in my saddle-bags, but they did not 
 seem to understand my strange accent. The people here 
 seldom listen to more than two or three sentences without 
 turning to something else. 
 
 " On reaching Cana, I found it a poor-looking village. 
 The road passes close to it. Several of its houses were in 
 ruins. In the gardens there were many apricot trees, with a 
 great deal of fine scarlet fruit upon them. It was interesting 
 to think of the ' beginning of the miracles ' of Jesus in that 
 place. We passed through a plain of a quarter to half a 
 mile wide, and reached Tiberias about 9 P.M. During the 
 latter part of the ride we had fine moonlight. 
 
 " Tiberias, August 1st As there was no place to pitch a 
 tent where there was any shade, it was judged best to go to 
 the house of a Jew, who has a fine large room where he 
 receives strangers. We found it very comfortable, and the 
 table was abundantly supplied, at the moderate charge of 
 thirty piastres a day. 
 
 " We were a little tired after our long evening ride, but I 
 rose early to take a bathe in the lake. A Jewish lad was 
 my guide, and we passed through the court of the synagogue. 
 Many Jews were there, reading their prayer-books ; their 
 phylacteries, which looked like an inkstand tied on their 
 
272 THE ENVOY. 
 
 forehead, had certainly a ridiculous appearance. To what 
 trivial absurdities have these poor people been brought by 
 their observance of the letter rather than the spirit of the 
 law ! 
 
 " The water of the lake is very transparent : its colour, the 
 fine blue of a clear atmosphere. This, then, was the scene of 
 many of the incidents of our blessed Lord's sojourn upon 
 earth ; from their occupation here, He called His earliest 
 followers ; upon its margin multitudes have listened to His 
 word ; on the bosom of these waters Jesus walked, and these 
 waves were stilled, obedient to His word. 
 
 " The town lies close to the water's edge, and some build- 
 ings, baths, and low towers are found in the water. Near 
 the town was moored the now solitary bark, a little shallop, 
 that floats upon the Sea of Galilee. 
 
 " We breakfasted upon some beautiful fish, and even these 
 
 were associated with sacred recollections. S asked if I 
 
 would go on the water or to the baths ; I replied that I 
 should like very well to take a sail, but that we had other 
 work ) do. Made some inquiries of our Jewish host about 
 the C] Tistians here. Some of them had said they wanted a 
 school ; the Jew said they were a bad set, and that they only 
 wanted money. Without my knowing, they sent for the 
 priest, who seemed by his dress to be very poor, and evidently 
 thought to get money from us by his saying that the Chris- 
 tians were greatly helped here by the English travellers who 
 came from time to time. He said they would be glad to have 
 a school opened by the English ; he did not stay long. I 
 had intended to make him a small present, and thought 
 of going to his house. He had sold a Bible given him some 
 
THE ENVOY. 273 
 
 time ago to our host, who bought it for his son to read 
 Arabic. I went afterwards to the house of one Ibrahim, a 
 tailor, who had formerly kept a school, and would be glad to 
 keep one again were he paid a salary equal to the profits of 
 his trade. He was a man of some capacity, but generally 
 ignorant, and by no means enlightened on the particular 
 errors of the Greek Church. We inquired if there were 
 among the Christians any who had had books given them 
 by missionaries or others.* They remembered some one 
 about twenty-five years ago who had given books ; the man 
 of the house had had two, but they no longer existed ; they 
 could not remember his name. From the priest and himself 
 I gathered that books had been given at various times, but it 
 did not appear that they had been used. S had a ^dis- 
 cussion with him on some of his errors, and I endeavoured to 
 get a few words of warning and exhortation spoken to him. 
 " From his house I walked through the market-place and 
 
 then along the shore. S accompanied me a little way 
 
 and went back ; he was oppressed by the heat, notwithstand- 
 ing a white umbrella, and light Aleppo cloak Encumbered 
 with these, he made a very dignified appearance. He ap- 
 peared much interested in the Jews here. A Jewish lad, son 
 of our host, accompanied me. He shewed many signs of 
 quickness and ability. He was surprised that I did not care 
 for seeing the baths. I was greatly cast down at the dead 
 state of the people here, and also by our not having done our 
 duty sufficiently in seeking the Christians out ; but it was 
 useless for me to go alone, and S r- had evidently no in- 
 clination to accompany me. I endeavoured to explain to my 
 
 * Jowett had left some books here about thirty years ago. 
 
 S 
 
274 THE ENVOY. 
 
 companion that I was a servant of Jesus Christ, that I desired 
 to speak to men of Him, that now I felt a deep interest in 
 that lake because Jesus had been much there. On the shore 
 I met some children going to bathe. The guide informed me 
 that they were Christians. They overheard him, and this 
 gave me an opportunity of speaking to them ; they seemed 
 fine, quick children. Some could read tolerably from a little 
 tract I had in my hand, one well ; he had been a servant or 
 apprentice to the before-mentioned tailor. I saw some large 
 vaults, the ruins of an ancient synagogue. This place is 
 considered sacred by the Jews. Gave an Arabic Bible to a 
 Jewish lad who asked for one, and a Psalter to another. 
 
 "At 8 P.M. we set off for Safet. The makours were 
 unwilling to go, they said, for fear of robbers, and there 
 were many Arabs encamped about ; four persons had been 
 robbed on the road we were going. However, we determined 
 to depart, trusting more, I fear, to the English name than 
 looking simply to Him from whom all help cometh, though 
 that was not forgotten. The road, at first, was on the side 
 of a hill, and near the lake, which is surrounded by hills, 
 for the most part bare and rocky ; on the opposite side of 
 them appeared a few scattered trees. We passed a few fine 
 springs, and entered about sunset a noble plain, well watered 
 by a stream, and about three thousand acres in extent. It 
 was occupied by Bedouins, and thorns and weeds were grow- 
 ing upon it. Soon we began the ascent to Safet, to which 
 we had a fine moonlight ride ; and about eleven o'clock were 
 lodged in the mission premises of the London Society for 
 promoting Christianity among the Jews. 
 
 " Safet, August 2d. There is at present no Jewish mission 
 
THE ENVOY. 275 
 
 here. There are about two thousand Jews. The Lake of 
 
 Tiberias they consider a sacred place. S informed me 
 
 that this was because many of their rabbis and saints had 
 lived and died there. Here, as at Tiberias, are schools, in 
 which the Talmud is taught. I have frequently been struck 
 with the beauty of the Jewish children. At Tiberias I saw 
 this more than at Safet ; but their loveliness does not last. 
 The lads, too, shew great talents, as a rule, but they seldom 
 appear properly developed in after life ; perhaps the reading 
 of the Talmud and worldly pursuits may cramp their minds, 
 and give them that propensity for trifling about words which 
 is so conspicuous in their attempts at reasoning. At Safet 
 we did nothing, though we spent a whole day there, for 
 I was rather tired. There were not many Christians there ; 
 but I had a good deal of conversation with Tanous, an em- 
 ployt of the Jewish Society here. He is a Protestant, and, 
 I trust, a converted man. He spoke of his trials, and alluded 
 especially to the solitude of his position. He told me of 
 his having received from a missionary (perhaps Wolff) two 
 Testaments, and afterwards of. his having burnt them at the 
 instigation of a priest. He now repented of this, and sent 
 to beg a Bible from an American missionary, who was greatly 
 pleased at such an application from a native Christian. He 
 calls the Rev. J. Nicolayson, missionary to the Jews at 
 Jerusalem, his spiritual father. Mr N. was stationed for 
 some time at Safet, and his intercourse with him aided 
 Tanous in understanding the books he read. I walked up 
 to the ruins of the citadel, which overhangs the town. About 
 twelve years ago an earthquake did much damage here. 
 There is a fine view from this place of the Lake of Tiberias. 
 
276 THE ENVOY. 
 
 "August 3d Left Safet at 3.30 this morning; rose at 
 midnight, but the makours were very long in getting ready. 
 We descended a very steep mountain, and entered upon a 
 plain, which contains Lake Hoole. The landscape to-day 
 was very fine : a rich, well-watered plain ; the lake at first 
 like a looking-glass ; the mountains bounding the plain ; 
 and, in the distance, the lofty mount of Djebel Sheik, or 
 Mount Hermon. We left the little lake behind us. Near 
 it, and in different parts of the plain, were several Bedouin 
 encampments ; many of the tents made of reed-mats, in- 
 stead of black goat's hair. I saw several herds of buffaloes 
 (camons) ; passed a fine spring at Malchah, about four hours' 
 from Safet, and halted about an hour afterwards (nearly nine) 
 under three fine trees, two of which afforded shelter for the 
 
 horses and servants, and one for S and myself. We 
 
 made a good breakfast, and lay down to sleep. 
 
 " I rose in about two hours ; found a horse down, entangled 
 in a rope ; roused the makouri ; walked down to the marsh 
 to get a nearer view of some large animal that I took to be 
 a wild boar, but could not see him again. 
 
 " At one we set out, and after riding through much the 
 same country, turned at length to the east, passing over 
 sloping, stony land, in which were many streams of water, 
 some of them artificial for the sake of irrigation. Crossing 
 a ravine, through which flowed the river from Hashbeya, by 
 a fine old Roman bridge, we encamped at Bainia, apparently 
 a ruined fortress and village, near which is a very large 
 spring, considered to be the source of the Jordan. I saw 
 blackberries during my journey to-day. 
 
 "August 4>th. We rose at five, and, taking a guide who 
 
THE ENVOY. 277 
 
 offered himself, went to the spring. It is a fine, clear stream, 
 gushing out from under some loose stones at the foot of a 
 cliff, in which is a large natural cavern, where it formerly 
 rose. It ran bubbling over stones and rocks amongst the 
 green bushes, in a way rarely seen in Syria. Bainia is 
 capable of being made a beautiful place : there is a good 
 mill-power here, used now to a certain extent; and from 
 these mills the water could be well conveyed to the lower 
 lands. 
 
 " I have felt that we do very little in the way of missionary 
 work. I might detail a few efforts on my own part to speak 
 to the people ; but, alas ! I feel my own sinfulness, world- 
 liness, helplessness, and want of knowledge in the guidance 
 of others. heavenly Father, give me grace, love, and 
 wisdom in all things ; simplicity in following Christ, and 
 earnest longings for the souls of men ! 
 
 "Many persons came to-day, offering a variety of old 
 coins for sale : they are common in this country. I after- 
 wards walked up to the top of the rock overhanging the 
 place near the spring. The view was fine: the beautiful 
 clear water which we looked down upon or into, the rich 
 green herbage on the winding banks, the olive-groves and 
 scattered trees, beyond, the plain and distant hills, fur- 
 nished abundant enjoyments for the delighted eye. I could 
 have spent a week here very pleasantly. In one place, be- 
 neath a bridge, or rather an old arch, was a small cascade. 
 The water rushed for some distance with the impetuosity of 
 a torrent. Under a most luxuriant growth of wild figs, vines, 
 blackberries, &c., I found some beautiful bushes of myrtle. 
 
 "We left at half-past one, and arrived at Hashbeya at 
 
278 THE ENVOY. 
 
 half-past six. Its situation amongst the hills is fine, the 
 buildings good, and the appearance of the little town very 
 respectable. We encamped on a plat under a few olive-trees, 
 in the valley near the town ; and soon after reaching it met 
 with an indication of the spread of Protestant principles. 
 A lad who came to our tent told the servant that if he 
 wished him to buy anything for the morrow he must do it 
 that evening, for he could not buy for him on the Sabbath- 
 day. Here I may say that I feel I have been much too lax 
 in allowing my Mussulman servant to buy things and to do 
 just as he pleased on the Sabbath. 
 
 " August 5th. It was pleasant to think that this morning I 
 should be enabled, though almost in an unknown tongue, to 
 join with some who professed and, I trust, knew something of 
 the true worship of God. Joseph came in the morning to take 
 us to the place of assembly a good-sized room in the mission 
 premises, occupied occasionally by the American missionaries, 
 and not far from our encampment. About twenty were 
 assembled, sitting on the ground the men on one side, the 
 women on the other : the greater part rose as we entered. 
 Two chairs were placed near the schoolmaster, who officiated. 
 Soon after our entrance, he rose, and said, ' Let us pray/ and 
 offered up a short extempore prayer. He then read, in a 
 simple yet devout manner, James iii., Ezekiel xxiii., and 
 Luke xiii. ; between each portion he offered up a prayer ; 
 and after the last, addressed the little assembly on the mercy 
 of God, and on repentance. Several seemed to listen with 
 much attention. After the service, we sat a little time with 
 them, and expressed our pleasure at seeing them thus assem- 
 
THE ENVOY. 279 
 
 bled for the purpose of edifying one another. One man, 
 Georgis, seemed ready to enter into conversation. They 
 appeared to be very thankful for the light they had received. 
 We returned to the tent, and read some portion of the 
 service of the day, and in the afternoon repaired again to 
 the service of our Protestant brethren. We found many of 
 them in a shady place before the entrance of their meeting- 
 house : one appeared to be reading a tract to the others. 
 We sat down with them a little while, and then adjourned 
 to the room, in which there were already several people 
 sitting. Some of the women were earnestly engaged over 
 the Word of God. One of them was the wife of Hhaleel Ihn 
 Henri, to whom we had a letter from Tanous of Safet : she 
 was a very fine, handsome woman. After the service, we 
 again went out and sat outside, and had some conversation. 
 I found that the man Georgis had learned to read only two 
 years ago, and that it was since that time that his mind had 
 opened to the truth. Another man present was from Beyrout : 
 he had been, until a few weeks ago, an enemy to the Protest- 
 ants, but had seen the error of his ways, and was quite happy 
 in the change, though he suffered many petty persecutions. 
 They related an anecdote very creditable to the Protestants. 
 About six months ago, the Greek priest in his sermon spoke 
 as follows : ' I will tell you a wonder. Yesterday, in the 
 street, I saw two men quarrelling ; and each cursed the 
 religion of the other.* A passer-by reproving one ' of them 
 for his language, he answered " What ! am I a Protestant, 
 that I should not curse or lie?" 'Now,' said the priest, 'do 
 
 * This is a common mode of imprecation in this country. 
 
280 THE ENVOY. 
 
 I teach you to curse or lie in the streets? but yet these 
 things are made the distinction between you and those whom 
 we have cast out as heretics.' 
 
 " We conversed with them also respecting their civil con- 
 dition. They had been persecuted by the Government ; had 
 had their tribute doubled ; and had suffered many petty an- 
 noyances ; but none of these things moved them. Since 
 the firman was issued authorising the formation of Pro- 
 testant communities, they had availed themselves of it, but 
 with some difficulty, owing to the ignorance of the emir. 
 
 "August 6th. The poor people of this place greatly in- 
 terested me. There was a simplicity and earnestness about 
 them, and, at the same time, an expression of countenance, 
 that reminded an observer of that stern independence of 
 feeling characteristic of the Puritan or English Dissenter. 
 
 " This morning I went to their school, which was held in a 
 place near the schoolmaster's house, under a shade of boughs 
 made for the purpose, and called the summer school-room. 
 Several boys and girls were seated on the ground round the 
 space in the usual way. They were reading primers, (small 
 books containing portions of Scripture,) some Genesis, some 
 the Acts, and some a Gospel. One of the girls present was 
 the daughter of the Turkish emir ; another, of the chief 
 sheik of the Druses at Hashbeya. The children did not seem to 
 be very expert at answering questions. The master said a 
 great many of them were absent from sickness. I gave him 
 a small present of forty piastres, which he seemed unwilling 
 to take, as well as a Church History, and a book of proofs 
 of Christian doctrine, which he had tried in vain to procure. 
 He had a Scripture Guide, published by the Church Mission- 
 
THE ENVOY. 281 
 
 ary Society, and seemed to know their works. He asked for 
 the Arabic translation of Keith on the Prophecies. 
 
 " As we were nearly ready to start, we heard a little com- 
 motion on the hill in the town, and presently we saw a 
 funeral procession of Greeks. Five or six priests walked 
 along chanting, people followed in order, and then came a 
 crowd, making a great noise, waving their caps (tarbushes) 
 in an excited manner. The corpse was carried on a bier on 
 the hands of a number of persons, who held it up as high as 
 they could above their heads. A number of women followed, 
 some of whom wept. All were dressed in their ordinary 
 dress ; and there was nothing of what we consider funeral 
 solemnity or decency, except, perhaps, the chanting of the 
 priests, which was, however, neither beautiful nor impressive. 
 
 "We set off at eleven A.M. Hashbeya is of tolerable size, 
 containing, I should suppose, about four or five thousand 
 inhabitants. It is situated on the side of a deep valley, 
 which is well planted with olives, vines, and mulberries. 
 There seems to be a good deal done in silk here. We now 
 saw a marked difference between the mountaineers and the 
 felladeens of South Syria. 
 
 " Behind Hashbeya rises the lofty height of Djebel Sheik, 
 or Mount Hermon. The summit is about five hours' distant. 
 
 S seemed rather anxious to spend a day in going there, 
 
 to which I objected, as having no business to transact in 
 the place. He seemed to think it desirable to go and see 
 places, because people were often asked if they had seen so 
 and so. This, I told him, was no reason at all. I had not 
 come from home to see curiosities, and felt no inclination to 
 do so. I was perhaps too indifferent to such things, though 
 
282 THE ENVOY. 
 
 I felt very thankful for, and had enjoyed very much, all that 
 God permitted me to see in the course of my journey. We 
 were now in a really mountainous country, for near Hash- 
 beya the hills were not very steep or lofty. Passing a fine 
 stream, we saw, near a turn of the road, a number of people 
 assembled close to some long huts made of boughs. This 
 was Khan Hashbeya, and there was to be a market or fair 
 here the following day. We met several people on their way. 
 After a time we came to a deep ravine, through which a con- 
 siderable stream ran bubbling and foaming over the rocks. 
 This was, I believe, the river Kasmia, which enters the sea 
 between Saida and Soor. The spot was very picturesque ; 
 the descent was steep ; the torrent was crossed by a bridge, 
 near which a number of Druses were halting under some 
 trees, apparently on their way to the fair. After riding 
 about five hundred yards beside the rapid stream, we came 
 to a steep ascent, and had a fine view at the summit, 
 Mount Hermon to the east, and the mountains towards 
 Tiberias to the south. We were now upon the ridge of 
 Lebanon ; the road was between hills, and over undulating 
 ground ; the air was pleasant, though there was not so much 
 wind as in the lower country. In one place I saw a small 
 seam of anthracite coal, not more than three or four inches 
 thick, and about four feet above it another small seam. As 
 all the party went on and were soon out of sight, and the 
 track over the rock might not be very plain, I could not stay 
 long to examine it. We came to a village called Kepha 
 Heoni, and learning that the place we had intended to 
 encamp at was still two hours' distance, we halted for the 
 night, as there was but one hour before sunset. A few men 
 
THE ENVOY. 283 
 
 and boys soon gathered round us, as we sat on some rocks 
 while the tent was being pitched. After trying to address 
 them, I took out some tracts given me by the schoolmaster 
 at Hashbeya, and asked if they could read, inquiring at the 
 same time about the education for their children. They were 
 Christians, but had no school except one which they did not 
 seem to value, and it was kept by the son of the priest. A 
 smart young man took a tract and read it fluently. He said 
 ' Here is a Protestant book ; I know what the Protestants are : 
 they do not fast, they do not tell lies or curse, but are good 
 men/ He spoke, however, much too lightly. He had a 
 Bible and some other books. His name was Ibrahim, and 
 he said he was a doctor. He said that Kua Tanous of Safet 
 had told him that a consul had been at Safet who wanted to 
 open schools in different places. Supposing that we were con- 
 nected with the party, he told us that a school could very 
 well be opened there, that he would be the teacher, and that 
 twenty-five persons in the village wished to become Protest- 
 ants. We corrected his mistake about the object of our mis- 
 sion, told him of the importance of the situation of teacher, 
 and exhorted him to use the light and knowledge he had, 
 first for the benefit of his own soul, and then to seek to do 
 all he could for others. He came to us a second time, and 
 said that a person wanted a book with the Revelation of St 
 John. I said if he would come to me I would give him one, 
 but that I wished to see the individual. We told him that 
 Tanous was mistaken in the information he had given, and 
 certainly Tanous was not quite so extravagant in his ideas 
 on the subject when we saw him at Safet, though it is most 
 likely that Dr Crawford's servant and interpreter, Abdal- 
 
284 THE ENVOY. 
 
 lah, magnified a good deal what the doctor had said on the 
 subject. 
 
 "August 7th. Whilst the tent was being packed, an old 
 gentleman made his appearance, who turned out to be the 
 priest, and also the man who wanted to read the Kevelation 
 of St John. He had a family. 1 gave him a New Testa- 
 ment, hoping it might be of use to him and them, and 
 endeavoured to impress upon him the value of the Book, that 
 he should read it to his people, and encourage them to do the 
 same. 
 
 " Our road to-day was very rough and rocky, and steep in 
 a few places. After travelling two hours on the side of the 
 hills, we crossed a very deep ravine. We passed a few 
 picturesque spots, and through some large Druse villages, at 
 which I felt a wish to stay ; I fear I did wrong in not doing 
 so, but in one there was no barley for the cattle, and I was 
 not aware of the size of another until we had passed through 
 its straggling length, and left what appeared the best camp- 
 ing ground far behind. In a ravine, we passed a mill, in 
 which were some people, and being at the time on foot, I 
 went up to them, and made myself understood a little. They 
 were Druses. I gave a copy of St John's Epistles to one of 
 them, who asked me to come and stay at his house. The 
 mountains here were very beautiful, with olives, mulberries, 
 and vines, attaining a considerable height. In some of the 
 villages were large houses. 
 
 "We reached Deir el Kamar about sunset. The place 
 is very finely, situated. Before us was the town, spread along 
 the side of a long ridge, among mulberries, figs, and vines ; 
 and to the right stood the handsome palace of the Emir 
 
THE ENVOY. 285 
 
 Beschir, who was once a chief of great power in the moun- 
 tains, but is now living in disgrace, if not in imprisonment 
 or captivity, in Constantinople. After some searching, we 
 found a house to go into, as there was no very good place to 
 
 encamp, and S and my servant seemed anxious for some 
 
 other dwelling than a tent. 
 
 "August 8th. We found ourselves this morning com- 
 fortably lodged in the house of Mr or Dr David ; he seemed 
 an intelligent man. The last day's ride had been rather 
 fatiguing, and I spent some time in the house making my 
 notes on one or two of the previous days. Our host wished 
 to know what I was writing, and I told him I was noting 
 down various things that had occurred in the journey, at 
 which he seemed much amused. We walked out before din- 
 ner, and looked in at various workshops for silk weavers. 
 They make very handsome sashes, and other work in silk and 
 cotton mixed. A quantity of silk is manufactured in this 
 place. In many of the villages, we saw the weavers reeling 
 the silk, and much is brought here from the surrounding 
 country. The weavers work for themselves, that is, they buy 
 their own materials, and sell their stuff to the merchant. 
 There was something in the appearance of this region that 
 reminded me of the manufacturing districts of southern 
 Yorkshire. The one district might be described as mountain- 
 ous, the other as hilly. There was much timber on the slopes 
 in both places, though here there was more luxuriance in the 
 verdure, There was also the same appearance of busy pros- 
 perity, though, of course, there was a great diversity in many 
 things. 
 
 " Our host, who went with us, with somewhat of officious 
 
286 THE ENVOY. 
 
 civility, proposed that we should go to see the Maronite 
 church, which we did. Two monks joined our party. The 
 size was tolerable ; the arrangements, ornaments, pictures, 
 &c., were after the usual Romish fashion. A large Syriac 
 copy of some portions of Scripture was lying on a small 
 table. Ascertaining that it was read in the church, I asked 
 if the people understood it. At first they said, Yes ; and 
 
 S seemed inclined to corroborate the statement, saying 
 
 that the people spoke Syriac. But it came out that this 
 was true of very few ; the majority could not follow the 
 reading, and had to receive a subsequent interpretation of it 
 in Arabic. ' Did they supply the people with the Scrip- 
 tures ? ' They did : they were even printed at a convent 
 somewhere out to the north, but the copies were dear. 
 They said they were common, referring, as I found after- 
 wards, to a small prayer-book. They said they were willing 
 to let the people read the Scriptures, except prohibited copies, 
 and such were those published in England. 'Why?' 'All 
 things touched by heretics were kharem, or unlawful' I 
 touched the book on the table, saying I was a heretic accord- 
 ing to their views, and was that book now unfit for the 
 faithful to touch ? They said that their words did not 
 refer merely to books touched by the heretic, but to those 
 made by him. They said our version was incorrect and 
 perverted. I challenged proof : they had none to give. They 
 talked of Peter in- the usual way. On the quotation of GaL 
 iL, the monk was quite shocked at the wickedness of saying 
 that Peter was ever wrong, and denied th^t there was any 
 such thing in Scripture. We challenged him to refer to the 
 dge in any copy of the epistles in the church ; but he 
 
THEESYOY. 287 
 
 was either afraid, or had not one with him. On leaving the 
 building, some of the monks asked us to take coffee, and we 
 went to one of their cells, but had very little more discussion. 
 The monk whose cell we went into professed liberal prin- 
 ciples, and asserted his belief that all true Christians were of 
 the Church. He seemed ignorant of the doctrines of his 
 Church on the subject. It is painful to think of the darkness 
 in which men wilfully abide, by blindly surrendering the 
 judgment and reason which God has given them to the will 
 of others, and rejecting the light of the revelation of God. 
 
 " After dinner we rode to the Tel Dean, the palace built 
 by Emir Beschir, a very magnificent structure, most pictur- 
 esquely situated on the side of a steep hill. The building is 
 very extensive, and contains much beautiful masonry, very 
 fine baths, and splendid gardens, in fact, all that could be 
 wished for in the residence of an eastern prince. It is now 
 a barrack, occupied by soldiers. A few of the rooms, espe- 
 cially the baths, are well taken care of; but some of the 
 apartments of the harem are in a sadly dilapidated condition. 
 Many of the costly marble ornaments have been broken by 
 the c;. - or wantonness of the Turkish soldiery, and 
 
 the inlaid floors of marble and various stones are covered 
 with dry mud and dirt. There was a great delicacy in -ome 
 of the arrangements and style. "\Vhite marble abounded, 
 testifying to a graceful regard for the female paxt of the 
 establishment, and of more refinement than might be expected 
 from those who hold the weaker sex in ivile a 
 
 condition. On the summit of the hill, or nearly so, was 
 another palace, not quite so large, but of the same expensive 
 character. This was built by the old Emir Beschir, the 
 
288 THE ENVOY. 
 
 other by his son. These were both striking instances of the 
 instability of human greatness. As we were descending, I 
 said to the Turkish corporal who attended us, ' The emir has 
 built a very fine palace for the soldiers/ ' Min shan Sultan ' 
 for the Sultan was the reply. I thought there was a 
 lesson here. The soldiers enjoyed the large rooms, the fine 
 courts and fountains and shady trees of the emir's cherished 
 abode, but they said not that these things were for them- 
 selves ; they enjoyed them only as the soldiers of their sove- 
 reign, and might at his pleasure be sent to any other place. 
 So ought we to feel of all those things which the Lord gives 
 us to enjoy. Their use is permitted to us as His servants ; 
 at His pleasure we hold them. Let us not dare, like inso- 
 lent rebels, to seek to retain them in opposition to His royal 
 will. 
 
 "August th. We proposed leaving Deirel Kamar early 
 this morning. Just before we were ready to start, two of 
 the inhabitants came in. One was a brother, and the other 
 father-in-law to one Michael Meshaku of Damascus, who is 
 becoming rather celebrated in these parts by his conversion 
 to true Christianity, and his controversial writings on the 
 subject. We had some conversation on the Church of Eome, 
 and the power of the popes. I gave them Jewel's apology. 
 Michael's brother had something pleasing about him, and I 
 hope was less attached to the Church of Rome than he seemed 
 to be. 
 
 " We had a pleasant ride of about three hours through fine 
 mountain scenery ; but the greater part of the way was a 
 steep descent, and then a very rough and wild climb. At 
 one place we crossed a torrent by a good bridge, and saw a 
 
THE ENVOY. 289 
 
 number of Druses on horse and foot scrambling up the hill 
 before us. They appeared to be a large holiday party who 
 had been to worship at some place of sanctity near Beyrout, 
 connected with their superstitions. We reached Abbaye some 
 time before noon, and were kindly received by the American 
 missionaries there. We pitched the tent for our baggage and 
 seats on a piece of ground near their premises. Quarters were 
 
 found for me in the house of Mr Whiting, and S was 
 
 accommodated by Mr Colham. After wandering for some time 
 in a quasi wilderness it, was quite refreshing to meet with 
 simple-minded Christians. The educational institutions of 
 the Americans seem good. They have a place in which four- 
 teen young men are boarded and educated, and where they 
 appear to be largely instructed in the sciences, and in the 
 elements of general knowledge. One class was proving a 
 problem .in navigation or astronomy, finding the latitude by 
 double altitudes, while another was receiving a lesson in 
 history. 
 
 " In the evening, there was a little meeting of the mission- 
 aries and their families, and a few of the natives, for reading 
 the Word, and prayer. This is the custom every Thursday. 
 Mr Colham was the leader on the occasion. The hymns 
 chosen were some that are common to most English hymn- 
 books, and which I had often used in my meetings at 
 Knaresborough ; I enjoyed them much. 
 
 "August IQth. About half-past ten we set off for 
 Alleh, another village in the mountains. Looked at some 
 houses to see a place in which we might stay for a time. 
 After inspecting two or three, we went on to Alleh, where 
 we arrived late, having lost our way, and gone much too far 
 
290 THE ENVOY. 
 
 down the hill. Mr W was out, and also Eobert S , 
 
 who was gone to spend the night at a Druse village some 
 little distance off. We pitched our tent, but Mr W- - very 
 hospitably invited us to take up our quarters in his house. 
 He lives in a village altogether Druse, and says that many of 
 the people seem to be inquiring. 
 
 "August 1 1 ih. This day I discharged the mokarin. S 
 
 was to have gone to Ainab, but did not seem to like setting 
 out alone. It was arranged for him to stay over the Sunday. 
 
 I went to Aitad, where Mr W was going to administer 
 
 the sacrament to a young person who was very ill. 
 
 " A ugust 1 2th. Prospect of a quiet Sunday and worship. 
 I went out for a time, and sat in the shade of some rocks, on 
 a side of the valley near the village. At eleven, Mr Wimbolt 
 had service in English. He put on his surplice, and arranged 
 a table for a pulpit. There were present three members of 
 
 his family, one or two servants, myself, and S , a young 
 
 native of Beyrout, who spoke English, and three or four 
 Druses, to whom, at the conclusion of his English address, 
 he said a few words. At three, there was a service in Arabic. 
 Several more Druses were present, and, at Mr Wimbolt's 
 
 request, I addressed them, through E S , who is a 
 
 good Arabic speaker, and whose heart is full of love to souls. 
 To speak to these poor people was difficult ; but I endea- 
 voured to give them a few thoughts which might tend to 
 convince them of sin. Some of them seemed very attentive. 
 I mourn my own indifference to the lost state of those 
 around me. 
 
 "August IStkl walked this day to Hamdun a village 
 about one hour from Alleh to see Mr Smith, the American 
 
THE ENVOY. 291 
 
 missionary. The excursion was pleasant over a mountain- 
 ous country : a Druse went with me to shew the way. 
 Hamdun is a fine village, principally Christian. It stands 
 very high, and commands a view of the summits of Lebanon, 
 where a little snow seemed still to lie in the more shaded 
 parts of the acclivities. The breeze from this place was cool 
 and refreshing. I spent a pleasant time with Mr Smith, who 
 has travelled much, and is an able man. He is at present 
 engaged in translating a new version of the Bible into 
 Arabic." 
 
 Mr Bowen remained for some days in this neighbourhood ; 
 and while here both he and his servants were attacked with 
 ague, which prevented his doing much here either as a mis- 
 sionary or tourist, except making a few excursions to the 
 different missionary stations near chiefly occupied by the 
 Americans and visiting the English sailors in the hospital 
 at Beyrout : 
 
 " August 21th. In the evening I walked up to the top 
 of the hill behind the village, whence the view is very fine, 
 embracing some beautiful valleys, or rather ravines, between 
 this and Deir el Kamar. The sea is seen to a great distance, 
 and the coast from the north of Beyrout to the south of Saida. 
 I walked up to a house which was on the summit. Two 
 Druse women who were there brought me some very fine 
 fresh grapes from the vineyards by which the dwelling was 
 surrounded. There was a simple kindness in these people's 
 manners which was truly pleasing : how I wished I could 
 have spoken to them of Jesus ! The people of the house 
 
292 THE ENVOY. 
 
 have also been very attentive to us, but there does not yet 
 seeni any way open for me to preach the simple truth to 
 them. I feel that I have great need to be watchful over my 
 own spirit. An attack of illness from which I have been 
 suffering I have taken as a rebuke from the Lord. I did not 
 sufficiently feel how much I was in His hands, and dependent 
 for strength upon His will. 
 
 "August 2oth. Eeading a little Arabic. In the evening 
 
 I rode over to Aitad, to return the medicine scales I had 
 borrowed from Mr Thompson. 
 
 "August 26th, (Sunday). I rode over with S to 
 
 Alleh, to attend a service that Mr Wimbolt always holds at 
 
 II A.M. on Sundays. I think the ride was a little too much 
 nearly two hours, over rough roads, in a hot sun : no other 
 sojourner was there ; there were three Druses, to whom 
 a few words were spoken, Mr Wimbolt says many of the 
 Druses are inquiring, and that some of their chiefs are con- 
 sulting to put a stop to it. 
 
 "August 27th. Writing ; not very well ; in the afternoon 
 
 walked over to Mr S 's at Shimlan, and drank tea there. 
 
 There is here a large factory for reeling silk. Mrs S 
 
 seemed a Christian woman. The evening was pleasant, and 
 the walk home by moonlight very fine. 
 
 " August 28th. Writing, and reading a little Arabic ; 
 P. M. rode over to Abbaye ; saw Messrs Whiting and Calhom ; 
 had some pleasant conversation, and returned home by moon- 
 light. S went to a village called Bysour, near this ; 
 
 and seemed gratified with his visit. He had much conver- 
 sation with one Sheik Beschir, a Druse of much intelligence, 
 but great subtilty and bigotry. 
 
THE ENVOY. 293 
 
 "August 29th. Settled accounts with Joseph this morn- 
 ing. Sheik Beschir came to return S 's visit. He stayed 
 
 long, and we had much talk : he seemed ready at cavilling 
 objections. At length I endeavoured to give him some 
 positive proof of the genuineness of the Scriptures ; but he 
 would not see it. He said that even now the story of the 
 gospel might be changed, and Christians credit the new 
 one ; but that the Koran was immutable. He made me feel 
 that there were none so blind as those who would not see. 
 I saw, too, how needful it is to be watchful over one's own 
 spirit in these controversies, how hard to realise the duty 
 of speaking for the good of souls. The state of the Moham- 
 medans is very dark ; there is a hardened self-conceit about 
 them which is very impenetrable : the Druses resemble them 
 in this and many other respects. 
 
 "August 30th. I rode over to Aitad in the evening, 
 
 partly expecting to see Miss W , a young lady from 
 
 Dublin, who is come out as a governess in the family of Mr 
 Thompson, the American missionary, and has been ill ever 
 since her arrival. She was still in her room, so I had no 
 interview with her. 
 
 " August 31st. Came down to Beyrout to-day. Found 
 several English staying at Antonio's Dr Thompson of 
 
 Damascus, &c. ; Mr F I had met on the road between 
 
 Acre and Nazareth. They seemed to have a desire for a 
 service on Sunday, so I felt greatly inclined to remain. 
 
 "September 1st. Made up my mind to remain and have 
 a service, as it seemed right to do so. I went first into town, 
 and told Mr Heald, who was gratified by the proposal ; then 
 went to the hospital, and there found the sailor who had 
 
294 THE ENVOY. 
 
 broken his arm going on very well, two new patients, two 
 old, one gone, one very ill with fever : they were called to 
 breakfast, so I had not much conversation with them. I went 
 to the American printing-office, and got a few books, which 
 
 1 put up to go to Georgis, at Nazareth. Mr F and I 
 
 got into a boat, and rowed alongside an English schooner, 
 the Great Turk steamer, and the American Black Gipsy, 
 to tell the crews that there would be Divine service on the 
 morrow : we were civilly received, and thanked. Went after- 
 wards and visited a silk-reeling factory, under the superin- 
 tendence of Mr Robinson : a great number of young men 
 and boys seemed to be employed here. Had prayer in the 
 
 evening with Mr , Miss J , Dr T , Mr F , 
 
 and another gentleman. 
 
 "September 2d, (Sunday^) This morning had a service 
 in the dining-room at Antonio's hotel. No sailors came 
 except from the American ship, which we had scarcely called 
 on, but which sent seven out of eighteen who assembled. I 
 spoke to them from the Epistle for the day, but was not very 
 clear, as I wished to be short. As the day was very warm, I 
 read the ordinary prayers instead of the Litany. 
 
 " In the afternoon, visited the hospital, and read with the 
 sailors ; the man ill with fever seemed very restless. I went 
 on board the steamer in the evening with Miss Wilson. The 
 vessel sailed at sunset, and I returned on shore with Miss 
 
 " September 3d I went into the town in the morning, 
 
 and rode up to Alleh. Found Mr B there, who praised 
 
 the Sisters of Charity, and some similar institution in Lon- 
 don. I slept at Alleh during the night. 
 
THE ENVOY. 295 
 
 " September 4>th. After dinner, I rode to Ainab, calling 
 at Aintaf. I should have mentioned that yesterday several 
 
 Druses came to R S in the evening, and he read 
 
 with them the seventeenth of Acts. Afterwards, I gave thern^ 
 at their own request, a short address. I asked a lad who had 
 remained till the last why he came ? He said, ' To learn.' 
 'To learn what?' 'Concerning the Christ.' 'Why do you 
 wish to learn about Him ? ' ' That my sins may be forgiven/ 
 Nothing could have been better than his answers, and I trust 
 they were given in sincerity and intelligence. 
 
 "This morning a man visited me expressing a wish to 
 become a Christian, but as a Druse came into the room at 
 
 the same time, Mr W did not think it advisable to speak 
 
 to him on the subject, though R S was very anxious 
 
 to do so. 
 
 "September 6th. I feel that I have lost much time in 
 
 making and remaking plans. I spoke to S , who seemed 
 
 satisfied to remain or go with me. I called at a Druse house. 
 Tried to talk to the people, but they understood but little of 
 what I said. 
 
 "Went in the evening to Mr S 's, who has a silk 
 
 manufactory, in which a good many hands were employed. 
 I spoke about trying to establish a Sunday school in the 
 
 village, a project which Mrs S took up very warmly ; 
 
 while her husband, though he suggested various difficulties, 
 was not unfavourable. She thanked me for having men- 
 tioned it, so I trust something will be done. 
 
 "Returned as the moon was just rising above the hill. 
 On passing the room occupied by several work-people, I 
 heard some one reading aloud. I stopped, listened, and 
 
296 THE ENVOY. 
 
 inquired. The book was a bad historical manuscript. The 
 young man who was reading asked for books, and I sent him, 
 by a lad who accompanied me, ' Henry and his Bearer/ not 
 having a better one by me. On my way over, I had felt cast 
 down, but I prayed to the Lord for a blessing, and trust my 
 prayer was answered. I saw a Mr Salt, son of the traveller 
 to Abyssinia. 
 
 "September 7th. I went this morning with S to visit 
 
 Sheik Beschir at Bysore, a village little more than half-an- 
 hour distant, and prettily situated on the opposite side of the 
 same mountain ridge on which we are. This man has built 
 a house in imitation of the Turco-European style. He came 
 hastily up as he saw us approach, and when we met him, 
 he took me in a friendly way by the hand, and conducted me 
 to the house, where we sat upon cushions, and were, as usual, 
 entertained with sherbet and coffee. After a few general 
 remarks, the sheik introduced the subject of religion into the 
 conversation by producing a book of the American press on 
 the errors of the Greek and Romish Churches. He said that 
 he thought truth was on the side of the Protestants. I said 
 he ought then to join them ; and he said that if he turned 
 Christian at all it would be as a Protestant, but seemed to 
 think such a thing impossible. He objected to public con- 
 fession, and in some degree to public prayer, approving of 
 secret worship, and resting this upon our Saviour's words in 
 the Sermon on the Mount. He seemed to-day to wish to 
 avoid controversy, and was inconsistent in some of his obser- 
 vations, and spoke of the binding nature of worldly friend- 
 ships. I spoke of the unity of Christian love, and asked him 
 if he did not think the doctrine and teaching of Christ, as set 
 
THE ENVOY. 297 
 
 forth in the gospel, good for men, which he admitted. I told 
 him of our duty to warn others of their danger, and beseech 
 them to believe in Jesus. He talked a good deal about Pro- 
 testantism, and then changed the subject, thereby preventing 
 me from making a direct appeal to him. He told a fable at 
 some length to shew how from small beginnings great things 
 often take their rise. ' A man wanted to get a rope up to 
 the top of a minaret from which he could not descend. He 
 persuaded some one below to attach to a swallow's leg a line 
 of hairs joined together, which the bird brought up to its 
 nest at the top of the minaret. To the hairs was attached a 
 thread, to this a small cord, to this a larger, and to this a 
 rope, and thus the purpose was effected/ To what point of 
 our consideration this applied I could not very well say. 
 " We went afterwards to pay a visit to the aunt of Sheik 
 
 S , a lady of some property, whose married daughter had 
 
 recently given birth to a son, which was the occasion for great 
 rejoicings in the mountain. Some days ago, a considerable 
 concourse of people, in holiday dress, went to the village to 
 celebrate the event with feasting, accompanied with great 
 firing of guns. These people seem fond of occasions for 
 feasting and rejoicing. At the door of the house which 
 seemed a large one we met several people, not unlike 
 domestics and hangers-on, some well-dressed, with fine 
 pistols in their girdles. We passed through some courts, 
 and were introduced to an open space overlooking the side 
 of a hill, where was erected a sort of tent of fern-leaves 
 interwoven with twigs, which made a very good shade. 
 Here were seated several sheiks and four women, very well 
 dressed. The trains of the ladies were peculiarly long, their 
 
298 THE ENVOY. 
 
 veils fine and white. They preserved during our visit a 
 peculiar uniformity of attitude each seated on the long 
 cushion of the divan, with one leg bent under her, and the 
 other knee erect supporting an elbow : the veil was held 
 across the face in the usual Druse manner, revealing only 
 one eye. Some of the ladies had stockings handsomely 
 figured, others none : they sat on one side, whilst we took 
 our seats amongst the sheiks and efiendis. The conversation 
 was of the general, light character of a European meeting of 
 the same kind : they were amused at my efforts to speak 
 Arabic. We did not stay long. 
 
 " In the evening K S , whom I had been expect- 
 ing during the day, arrived from Abbaye. On mentioning 
 our visit, I found he knew several of the sheiks we had seen. 
 Two of them were from Alleh, the village where he resided ; 
 and one of them, a young man who was the sheik of the 
 village, had obtained that appointment by murdering his 
 cousin, to whom it belonged according to the hereditary 
 right recognised in the mountains. It appears that he, with 
 some accomplices, waylaid and shot the unfortunate victim. 
 The culprit Mahmoud fled, and was absent three or four years ; 
 returning, was reconciled to his family, and allowed to occupy 
 the coveted position. Had he been captured at the time of the 
 outrage, he would, in all probability, have been put to death 
 by the relations of the murdered man. This shews us some- 
 thing of the state of society in this country, even in its 
 ameliorated condition. To take another instance, whilst I 
 was at Jerusalem, in one of the neighbouring villages a man 
 killed his uncle by throwing a stone at him. It was a gross 
 case of manslaughter, yet the homicide was allowed to sue- 
 
THE ENVOY. 299 
 
 ceed to the little property of the slain. Murders are very 
 seldom punished by Government, but left to the fury of feud, 
 or compromised by the price of blood, regulated by the wealth 
 of the murderer and the avarice of the relatives of the victim. 
 In the present case, I felt much disgusted at the idea of 
 having thus sat down with an assassin, but was glad that 
 I did not know of his history and character before, as I do 
 not know how I should have conducted myself. 
 
 "Keturning home, I was struck by the activity of our 
 youthful guide, who seemed to rejoice in leaping and running 
 over the rough and rocky road. Oh, that these people, in 
 many respects so interesting from physical qualities, might 
 become the subjects of the grace that is in Christ Jesus ! 
 
 S remained with me till late, and I walked some way 
 
 with him, returning alone. I sat in the dusk upon a mass 
 of rock looking over the wide-spread sea before me, over 
 which still gleamed the light of the sun, now shining on the 
 western nations. The mountains were all in darkness ; sad 
 type of the condition of the souls of those who dwelt there. 
 But though the beauties of the faint western light, and the 
 silver radiance of the moon as she stole over the hill-side, 
 saddened and solemnised the pensive watcher, yet, in the 
 quiet loveliness of the scene, the spiritual desolation was for 
 a time forgotten. Moonrise, and the varied hues of light and 
 shade in the grouping of the mountains, are very beautiful 
 in this clear atmosphere. The howling of some jackals near 
 made me feel that it was time for me to return home. 
 
 "September 8th. To-day I went to pay a visit to my 
 American brethren at Abbaye. I found Mr Calhom at home, 
 and spent the day with him. I enjoyed much their kindness 
 
300 THE ENVOY. 
 
 and Christian conversation, and cannot but pity those who 
 refuse to recognise them as Christians. We conversed on the 
 prospects and progress of the mission. The Americans have 
 published a good many books in the Arabic language, chiefly 
 small works, none larger than the ' Pilgrim's Progress/ In 
 conversation with one of the ladies of the mission, I was a 
 little amused to find that a very intelligent Presbyterian did 
 not know what event Easter was intended to commemorate. 
 This arises from the total neglect of these commemorations, 
 which, though doubtless abused, have yet their use, and are 
 profitable to the intelligent Christian. Messrs Whiting and 
 Calhom gave me an invitation to preach and hold a service 
 at Aitad, where one of the missionaries was in the habit of 
 holding an English service. They said that many of the 
 attendants were of the Church of England, and would be 
 very glad of a sermon by an evangelical clergyman. This is 
 a pleasing proof of the catholic spirit of these good men. 
 
 " During part of my stay here, I read a short, but able and 
 impressive, account of the Druses, published in the American 
 Bibliotheca Sacra, a periodical chiefly conducted by Mr 
 Robinson. I paid a visit to Dr Vandyke, and found with 
 him a young Arab from Jaffa, who was asking to be taken 
 into the institution or academy. This young man had for- 
 merly been with the Bishop of Jerusalem, and expressed his 
 great desire to become a Protestant. He seemed to have 
 made his way to Beyrout in furtherance of the same de- 
 sign. 
 
 " The Americans have a service in Arabic each Sunday at 
 Abbaye, Beyrout, and Aitad. The number of their church- 
 members is about thirty natives, many of whom are in the 
 
THE ENVOY. 301 
 
 employment of the mission. This has been made a matter of 
 reproach, but I think the objection of little value. When 
 persons are wanted for the service of the mission in any 
 capacity, what more suitable servants can be found than 
 those who have believed the gospel and renounced their 
 heathen superstitions ? In the academy the general sciences 
 are taught to a considerable extent. Mr C said he 
 
 o 
 
 thought that there was a serious spirit amongst the students, 
 and he was hopeful that some of them might be made useful 
 labourers in the Lord's vineyard. 
 
 " In the evening I had some conversation with my Druse 
 landlord and his wife. They expressed their willing desire 
 to believe the gospel. I reminded them of the hypocrisy and 
 lying deceit of the Druses. They seemed inclined to rebut the 
 charge, but I urged many undeniable proofs in support of it. 
 As I dwelt upon this point my own feelings were much affected 
 by their sad condition ; and they seemed also much affected 
 and softened, expressing their desire to be taught, their will- 
 ingness to attend the various means of instruction, and join 
 in the prayers of a Protestant minister. This last wish of 
 theirs they had put forward on many previous occasions ; but 
 knowing, as I did, the hypocrisy of the Druses, I had felt un- 
 willing to ask them ; besides, among other hindrances, the 
 want of sufficient fluency in the use of their language. 
 
 "September 9th, (Sunday). After reading with S a 
 
 portion of the morning service, I was engaged in preparing 
 
 an address for Aitad, while S read to the people of the 
 
 house and others the history of Joseph from the Book of 
 Genesis. They seemed much interested now smiling, now 
 laughing, again weeping in sympathy, at the different stages 
 
802 THE ENVOY. 
 
 of the narrative. S endeavoured to set before them 
 
 Joseph as a type of Christ. 
 
 " During the morning a party of Turkish soldiers arrived 
 from Deir el Kamar ; and the supply from the lower spring 
 in the village not being enough for them, they ran all about 
 the houses in search of water, to the alarm of the women and 
 annoyance of the men. Our house was not entered for some 
 time, because there were English in it ; and when a few did 
 come, they behaved quietly enough, beyond resenting the 
 foolish insults of my servant. 
 
 " I went over to Aitad, and found a nice attentive little 
 congregation. I preached from Romans x. 9. I saw Mis- 
 sionary W , who is in a state of great weakness. Dr 
 
 Forrester, the American missionary physician, rode home 
 with me, and I was much pleased with his conversation : 
 he seems an enlightened Christian. He spoke of the good 
 effects that had been produced on the minds of some Arabs 
 by reading a translation of a sermon on the wrath of God 
 against sin. All the American missionaries concur in testi- 
 fying to the value of the direct preaching of the gospel, as 
 the means most blessed to the conversion of souls. My mind 
 in the evening ran rather on my intended journey to Beyrout 
 on the following day. I purposed starting early, to avoid the 
 heat. 
 
 " September 1 (MA. -This morning I set off about 3.30 A.M. 
 It was pleasant riding at that time, and we met several trav- 
 ellers. Mr Whiting had talked of coming from Abbaye at 
 two, and I concluded he had passed. He came up with me 
 at the foot of the mount, and we were soon afterwards joined 
 by some of the gentry from Aitad : the conversation was not 
 
THE ENVOY. 303 
 
 profitable. Went with Mr Whiting to Mr Smith, whom we 
 found at breakfast, and gladly accepted his kind invitation 
 to share his simple food. We saw his library, which was a 
 very good one, and contained many valuable works on bibli- 
 cal subjects. Thence we went to the American mission 
 printing-office, to get some of their publications for distribu- 
 tion on my journey. I procured a few copies of each of the 
 principal works published there. 
 
 " At Mr Heald's, where I called on business, I learnt that 
 Mr Wimbolt was very unwell, having been attacked with a 
 spitting of blood after performing service at Beyrout on the 
 preceding Sunday. His medical advisers thought it necessary 
 for him to return home immediately as his only chance of 
 recovery. Under these circumstances, I undertook to read 
 the funeral service over a poor little infant that had died the 
 day before. Whilst I was waiting in the graveyard of the 
 American missionaries, I had a little conversation with some 
 Arabs connected with their establishment. My surplice 
 shewed them that I belonged to the English Church ; so they 
 referred to another clergyman who had been staying some 
 time in the neighbourhood, asking if we were of the same 
 communion. My reply in the affirmative rather astonished 
 them, as I acknowledged that I did not hold exactly my 
 brother's views on the relative importance of church 
 order and gospel truths. I cannot recall, and perhaps did 
 not clearly understand, all their observations, but my im- 
 pression is that they had much regard for the ecclesiastical 
 system of the Church of England, and of the Church they 
 had left for the communion of the American Congrega- 
 tionalists. 
 
304 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " Having started at sunrise, we reached Ainab about twelve, 
 and left at three. It was late (about half-past seven) when 
 we got to Deir el Kamar. We were hospitably received by 
 Doctor D H , who had already retired to rest. 
 
 "September 12th. This was a busy day. Having ar- 
 ranged with S that we were to separate for a time, a 
 
 little while was spent in the settlement of accounts and 
 money matters. We then went out and called first on 
 
 Georgis G , who was suffering from intermittent fever, 
 
 which had been very common here. We conversed for some 
 time, and he spoke much on the subject of schools, and 
 expressed his wish that scriptural schools should be opened, 
 saying that the Christians were too poor to maintain a good 
 school at their own expense. He said there would be no 
 obstacle to the Druses, Mohammedans, and Christians being 
 educated together. I endeavoured to make him understand 
 the manner in which schools are supported in England, to 
 shew the advantage of people uniting in an endeavour to help 
 themselves as the best method of getting help from others. 
 
 " From this house, we went to that of Meshaku, brother 
 to Michael Meshaku of Damascus. The conversation here 
 was much to the same effect as at the last house, but we 
 could not stay long. He is a very pleasing person. His 
 name is Eaphael. Another brother is called Gabriel, so that 
 the three brothers are known by the three distinguished 
 angelic names. Scriptural names are not common amongst 
 the Arabs or Syrians. 
 
 " Returning to our lodging, we set off, accompanied by our 
 host David. We intended calling at Mochtara, and going 
 on to pass the night at Amatun. Mochtara is a fine village, 
 
THE ENVOY. 305 
 
 handsomely situated on the side of a hill in a commanding 
 position, its steep slope covered with vines, olives, and mul- 
 berries. Here is the residence of Said Bey^the present chief 
 of the Druses. He has succeeded to a portion of the power 
 enjoyed by Emir Beschir, who had been a successful rival of 
 the house of Jumlat, the first family of the Druses, of which 
 Said Bey is now the head. His father was called Sheik 
 Beschir, and his death was brought about by the machina- 
 tions of Emir Beschir, who attacked and partly destroyed the 
 seriah, or what we should call the mansion, of the sheik at 
 Mochtara. We were shewn places where the marble pave- 
 ment and ornamental work had been taken away to decorate 
 the palace at Zeddin. The view of Mochtara and Amatun 
 was grand ; olives and mulberries on the side of the deep 
 ravine, and the lofty ridges of Lebanon in the back-ground. 
 We found the ascent to Mochtara not so steep as it had 
 appeared, and met a fine stream of water rippling down. 
 We arrived at the large plateau in front of the house, where 
 many attendants appeared to be assembled, but the sheik was 
 not at home. He had gone to attend the funeral of a dis- 
 tinguished Druse, but was expected to return soon. It was 
 intimated that he might not be pleased if we did not wait 
 for his arrival, so we were shewn into his reception-room. 
 It was plainly furnished in the usual way, except that on one 
 side there were several European chairs. The servants 
 entertained us, bringing sherbet and embroidered towels, 
 coffee and pipes, in the usual way, and afterwards a repast of 
 fruit, honey, milk, eggs, and bread. As the sheik did not 
 come back, we went with David into the village to visit a 
 
 patient of his. This was a Christian family ; and the invalid, 
 
 U 
 
306 THE ENVOY. 
 
 a young man the sole support of his family, was able to 
 read. He had some of the American publications in his pos- 
 session. While we were there, the priest came in, and S 
 
 endeavoured ineffectually to draw him into conversation. 
 
 " We left soon, being summoned to attend the Bey, who 
 had just arrived. We ascended to the residence, and found 
 the chief in the divan. He is a young man, .about twenty- 
 five, of a pleasing expression, and gentle manners. When 
 his father was slain, he fled, and passed some time amongst 
 the Hauran Druses and the Arabs, of whom he seemed to 
 entertain the same sort of horror that a west-end Londoner 
 would of a Yorkshire or Lancashire farmer. He had also 
 been in Egypt, and served in the army of Ibrahim Pasha. 
 After the Druse war, when the European nations interfered 
 in the settlement of affairs and government in the Lebanon, 
 he was reinstated in his father's honours, and made governor 
 of a considerable district in the mountains. This he attri- 
 buted in a great measure to the influence and friendship of 
 Colonel Kose, H.B.M. Consul-general, for Syria. As soon as 
 he came home he ordered our things to be taken into a 
 room ; and though I did not wish to stay at the house of a 
 great man, yet there was something so pleasing in his gentle 
 manner that I was glad of an opportunity of knowing him. 
 Our conversation was chiefly general, and I felt my weak- 
 ness in the difficulty I experienced in speaking to a great man 
 in the same way that I should to a common Druse a per- 
 plexity which a parochial minister knows full well. On the 
 subject of education the Bey said he would do what Colonel 
 Rose wished. 
 
 " When S had left the room, I endeavoured to tell the 
 
. THE ENVOY. 307 
 
 Bey what was the object of my journey to distribute a few 
 books, and see what could be done towards advancing the 
 gospel amongst men. This was my business. I was a ser- 
 vant of Jesus Christ, and desired to promote His kingdom. 
 The Bey said he should be glad to have some of the books, 
 and he would assist me, if I wished, to distribute them in the 
 village ; but I did not deem it advisable to leave many with 
 him, as, in the event of their being wanted, they could be 
 readily procured from Beyrout. We were entertained with a 
 sumptuous dinner, of far too much variety for me, and then 
 walked about the building and gardens, which are for the 
 most part in a neglected and dilapidated condition. There 
 is a beautiful stream of water, brought from some distance, 
 that runs through the premises, and forms fountains in the 
 yard, plentifully supplying the baths and the whole village. 
 The three of us retired to rest in one room, and were supplied 
 with coverlets in the common way. The long covered arch- 
 ways and vaulted stables at this place reminded me of similar 
 vaults and arched passages in the now-ruined baronial resi- 
 dences of Britain. The Bey had a great number of attend- 
 ants : the bearing of many of them was fine and martial, 
 and they wore good weapons pistols and scimitars : their 
 manner to him was very respectful There seemed to be 
 several secretaries, with inkhorns by their sides. He had 
 an abundance of visitors, and many letters were brought to 
 him while we were there ; he seemed to have much business, 
 and a kind attentive manner to those who came to him. 
 
 "September \Wi. We rose early, and found that the chief 
 was stirring. He came to us to-day most magnificently 
 attired in silk, scarlet, and gold, which was rather out of 
 
308 THE ENVOY. 
 
 place with the broken rush-chairs and dust of the room in 
 which we had slept, and where he now breakfasted with us. 
 After breakfast, I gave away a few books : many were most 
 eager to receive them for the sake of their children, rather 
 than from a desire to read themselves. I gave away only one 
 Bible, and desired a man who was very anxious to have one 
 
 to send to Alleh, to R S , which he afterwards did. 
 
 The Bey asked to have a Gospel, and said, ' I have a torah/ 
 as they call the Bible. I asked to see the book, and found 
 it was one of the British and Foreign Bible Society's Bibles. 
 I shewed him that it contained the Gospels, and commended 
 them to his attention. 
 
 "About ten I left, feeling a deep interest in this young 
 man, who is evidently of a fine disposition. I have a great 
 desire to renew the acquaintance, and hope yet to do so 
 when better able to communicate with him. David ac- 
 companied us to Mochtara, a very fine village, about one and 
 a half or two miles distant. I had given a man here an 
 epistle of St John on a previous journey, and now I wished 
 to find him out, and give him a few more books. We were 
 taken to the house of a person of the same name, but he 
 was not the man, nor had we any success in our search. We 
 were requested to go to the house of a sheik who was unwell. 
 He was the chief man of the village, and, as I understood, a 
 distant relation of Said Bey. He lived in a good house, and 
 was weak from protracted ague. Many Druses collected 
 round us, and some sheiks from other villages came to visit 
 him. As a rule, they had good intelligent countenances, 
 expressing more shrewdness and firmness of character than 
 is, I think, generally to be observed in the Christians of 
 
THE ENVOY. 309 
 
 Syria, and less pride than the Mussulmans. In the course of 
 conversation, something was said about the belief of the 
 Druses in Mohammed. It was allowed by some. I demurred 
 to the statement, adding that the Druses made and recalled 
 it at their convenience. ' How ! ' replied one ; ' is your reve- 
 rence a Druse ?' 'No ; but I know a little of their secrets/ 
 They seemed displeased, but did not persist in their asser- 
 tion. Their attention was next called to our sacred Book, 
 written by many men, all guided by the same Spirit 
 a Book which contained many mysteries and secrets, some 
 of which were not yet understood by man, nor could be 
 though the meaning of the words was plain ; while many 
 other things were plainly written but could only be grasped 
 in their full significance by those who were taught of God. 
 The sheik we were visiting wished for a Bible, and I left him 
 one that I had with me. His name was Achined Ali Abu 
 Lamed. They were also told that the things of which we spoke 
 to them concerned the salvation of their souls, and a few 
 suitable passages were read ; they listened with respectful 
 attention. These men seemed also interested in the subject 
 of education. They said, however, they would do in this 
 matter whatever was done by Said Bey. They seemed to 
 think very highly of their young chieftain. I have separated 
 
 from S , he returning with David to Deir el Kainar. 
 
 This step I was led to take for two chief reasons. One was 
 that I wished to travel without an interpreter in order to see 
 how I could get on in the Arabic language, and also without 
 
 a tent and canteen, which S did not much relish ; and had 
 
 he been taken ill the blame would have rested on my plans. 
 Also, I wished him to endeavour to learn something further 
 
310 THE ENVOY. 
 
 of the religious condition of the mountains in that neigh- 
 bourhood, which he might do by residing at Deir el Kamar. 
 " I had a pleasant ride of about three hours through a fine 
 valley to Jezzim ; the road lying on the side of the mountain 
 ridge. I noticed that there was a diminution in the quantity 
 of water in some of the springs and streams since I had 
 passed them in the previous August. Near one torrent's bed 
 was a small dropping well, depositing calcareous matter in 
 the rich moss that grew about it : it was much less than the 
 dropping well at Knaresborough, but reminded me strongly 
 of it. I found near it some very fine stalactites. We passed 
 on the road a little heap of stones, which, according to my 
 servant's account, marked the spot where the Druses about 
 a fortnight before had killed two Albanian soldiers ; but I 
 heard afterwards at Jezzin that this was false, and apparently 
 without any foundation. Near Jezzin is a very fine cascade, 
 descending a considerable height into the valley below. The 
 village is very extensive, and is surrounded with foliage ; the 
 houses are scattered amongst the trees. Here, several months 
 ago, an English traveller unfortunately killed a boy. The 
 death was accidental; but the traveller was to blame for 
 rashness and carelessness. Some boys came round his tent 
 and annoyed him, and he fired his gun to frighten them ; 
 but not taking proper care, one of them was struck by the 
 charge, and died in a few days. The gentleman, under these 
 circumstances, was fortunate in getting off with the payment 
 of about 300 ; in some villages of Druses or Mussulmans, 
 he might have been fallen upon and slain at once. After a 
 little search I found a lodging, but the owner was at church ; 
 so I waited for his return before I entered the house. I and 
 
THE ENVOY. 311 
 
 my horse were accommodated in the court. As the dwelling 
 was too close to sleep in on a warm night, I turned out of 
 doors, and chose for my bed-curtains a certain blue canopy 
 studded with stars. Sleeping in the open air is very pleasant, 
 but it has its dangers. 
 
 " Jezzin is altogether a Christian village. There are three 
 churches, Greek and Greek Catholic. The day was the eve 
 of the Feast of the Cross, and was celebrated with lamps and 
 bonfires. There were schools for the children. The American 
 missionaries sometimes stay at the house in which I was, on 
 their way to Hashbeya, distributing their publications among 
 the people. A few collected in the evening. I asked them 
 about the Feast of the Cross. Did they know what was 
 understood by the cross of Christ ? They seemed hardly to 
 comprehend that it meant the cross of wood on which the 
 Saviour suffered. I made a young man read Matt. xvi. 24, 
 and Gal. vi. 14, and in broken Arabic endeavoured to teach 
 him that the cross of Christ had a practical meaning for us, 
 and that they should seek to be made acquainted with that 
 meaning. They were very ignorant : one man said they 
 would gladly come to a person who would talk to them of 
 these things, and listen to him. 
 
 " During the night the horses got loose, and I had to wake 
 the muleteer, and see what was going on. The night air was 
 cold. The Bishop of Deir el Kamar resides at Jezzin. 
 
 "September 1th. I left Jezzin a little after sunrise, 
 having engaged a guide to take us to Sidon, the muleteer not 
 knowing the way. The road was somewhat unusual, with a 
 few interesting geological features. The chief strata were 
 limestone, sand, and chalk : the sandy soil sloped nearly the 
 
312 THE ENVOY. 
 
 same way as at Beyrout, but with a far more gradual descent. 
 Many of the villages are chiefly Maronite. At one named 
 Keffri Falus, we stopped for rest and refreshment. The 
 people seemed poor ; they were under the jurisdiction of 
 Said Bey. A man and some lads came up to me ; they were 
 very ignorant. Few in the village could read ; the priest did 
 not teach them, as he knew nothing himself. One of his sons 
 could read a little, and was glad of a tract. 
 
 "We reached Sidon in good time. I hunted up the 
 English consular agent, to inquire for a lodging. I found 
 his son, an Arab, in a very respectable druggist's shop, and 
 was directed by him to a room in a caravansary, but decided 
 on going to a small coffee-house outside the gate, in order 
 that I might be able to start before daylight, while the gates 
 were yet closed. I made my bed on the top of a house, near 
 a water-wheel worked by a donkey. The place was on the 
 wall of the town, and a fine garden was inside, with majiy 
 tall houses looking into it. My host was a Christian, but 
 could not read. There are many prosperous Christians at 
 Sidon. There appears to be a good deal of business in the 
 town, and several large well-built houses. The port, how- 
 ever, is in a very bad state, and the mole in ruins. 
 
 "September 15th. Left Saida, or Sidon, about 2 A.M. 
 Felt I had done nothing for the gospel. Daylight appeared 
 as we approached the Ain el Kanturah, near which were 
 several Arabs, their horses tied to trees and stones. As we 
 advanced, the sun rose upon us, and it soon became warm. 
 The heat is great in all these low coast districts. We passed 
 the old Sarepta. I wished greatly to visit it ; but the heat 
 and fatigue which my horse would have to encounter, as well 
 
THE ENVOY. 31 3 
 
 as my uncertainty with respect to its whereabouts, combined 
 to deter me. At eight we passed over the scattered relics of 
 a ruined city. Some remains of cuttings in the rocks were 
 now washed by the sea, and the once square stones mingled 
 with the soil of the cultivated ground. The name is given 
 by Kobinson. About ten we reached the river Kasmich, 
 which I had crossed near Hashbeya, a beautiful mountain 
 torrent, in a wild, romantic, picturesque glen. This stream 
 was now enlarged, and wound its way through the alluvial 
 soil of the plain of Tyre. The river is crossed at this point 
 by a fine three-arched bridge : it is rapid, and still preserves 
 a peculiar greenish colour. These streams might be used to 
 irrigate and fertilise the plain ; but the people have neither 
 energy nor confidence to engage in such a work. I bathed 
 in the stream, made a lunch of figs, bread, and sour milk, 
 and lay down to sleep. At one we resumed our journey, and 
 reached Tyre in an hour and a half. I found that Atallah, 
 the English consular agent, was not at home ; but we met 
 his son-in-law in the street, and were directed by him to the 
 house of one Michael , who is glad to take in English- 
 men. Being tired, I did not carry out my original purpose 
 of minutely inspecting the ruins, in connexion with the 
 fulfilment of prophecy. 
 
 "September 16th. I rose in the morning with many 
 purposes for improving the Sabbath-day, thinking first of a 
 season of quiet though solitary devotion, and then of a profit- 
 able study of the Scriptures referring to Tyre, on the very 
 spot, and in view of the marks, not to say remains, of the 
 ancient greatness of that illustrious city. But God willed 
 otherwise. After breakfast I felt unwell, and soon found 
 
3 14 THE ENVOY. 
 
 that I was suffering from an attack of fever and headache. 1 
 had to lie on my carpet all day. 
 
 "September 17th. Fever continued, and ran high this 
 evening, with much confusion of mind, so that I feared 
 delirium in the event of no change taking place. Anxious 
 to be prepared for any issue, I wrote some notes in my rough 
 journal, for the guidance of any one, in case I should lose my 
 senses, or succumb to the violence of the attack. 
 
 "September 18th. Thank God, I was much better this 
 morning, and in the evening rode out a little on horseback. 
 I rode to the north-west side of the town, but could not 
 discover those stones of the wall transformed into rock which 
 I had seen in my former visit, they were covered either with 
 water or sand. Still I saw sufficient evidence of the ruins 
 or their vestiges. I doubt if one stone remains upon another ; 
 certainly not one stone rests upon another, unless it be under 
 the sand. The ruins are those of a Christian date, or of a 
 still later period. At this time there were ten or eleven 
 vessels in the roadstead, three or four of which were brigs, 
 and the others coasters of from thirty to fifteen tons. This 
 gave a sort of appearance of business to the place, but I found 
 that the larger vessels had generally to wait two or three 
 months for their cargoes. Twenty small coasters are all that 
 are owned by the present inhabitants. The export is chiefly 
 tobacco from the neighbouring hills. The population is 
 about two thousand, and the proportion of Christians may be 
 about one-fourth. I called in the evening at the house of the 
 English consular agent, Atallah, and saw his son-in-law. 
 Atallah was gone to the mountain country, partly for busi- 
 ness, and partly to avoid the sickliness prevalent on the coast 
 
THE ENVOY. 31 5 
 
 at this season of the year. I had hoped to find him at home, 
 and was rather disappointed at not meeting with a warmer 
 reception. The son-in-law, to whom I had made a nice 
 little present in the spring, seemed to have forgotten me. 
 While I was there, a priest came in of the Greek Catholic 
 sect. I asked him whether he approved of the Arabic version 
 of the Scriptures put forth by the English Bible Society, and 
 he said the translation was good. In the course of conversa- 
 tion, which was very lame on my part from my imperfect 
 knowledge of the language, I wished to refer to some portion 
 of Scripture, and asked for the Arabic Bible, which I knew 
 was in the house. Finding that it was laid away so as not to 
 be easily accessible, I told them not to take more trouble 
 about it, as it was getting late and time for me to depart. It 
 appears that the Greek Catholic patriarch has been more 
 active here of late, and opened a school, which seems to give 
 the people satisfaction. I left two Psalters and some other 
 books for the two younger sons of Atallah, and gave to the 
 son-in-law the Beyrout edition of Thomas a Kempis. Ke- 
 turning home, I prepared to start in the morning, feeling 
 tolerably strong. I gave my host, Michael, a Bible, and a 
 Psalter for his son. He seemed rather an intelligent man, 
 and appeared to have a great respect for the English. Bibles 
 have before been distributed in Tyre, but I could not dis- 
 cover any symptom of fruits, and was impressed, as in other 
 places, with the necessity for a living witness. 
 
 "September \th. I set off about an hour after sunrise. 
 There had been a little shower of rain in the night, by which 
 the air was made pleasant, and the sun was occasionally ob- 
 scured by a cloud. This was very refreshing to me in my 
 
316 THE ENVOY. 
 
 enfeebled state, and I felt thankful to God for it. I passed 
 along the sandy beach and the mound that covers much of 
 old Tyre, and came to the Kas el Ain a fine spring that 
 supplied the ancient inhabitants with water. There were 
 aqueducts about the spring, of which several of considerable 
 size remain. Some of these were incrusted with stone a 
 deposit from the water. We passed again the scattered ruins 
 of an old city, and soon began to ascend the white promon- 
 tory opposite Tyre. 
 
 " The road now appeared to lose much of its steep and 
 dangerous character. This was but a delusion explained by 
 my having become more accustomed to the mountain paths 
 of Syria. At Cape Nakora was a solitary house in which a 
 poor man lay sick of a fever. The promontory is tolerably 
 high. The plains of Asher were now brown, the harvest 
 having been gathered in. Descending to the plain, I turned 
 off to a village where I intended to pass the night, having a 
 letter to a priest there, who had received a Bible from the 
 Rev. Mr Wimbolt on a former visit of his to this neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 " There seemed to have been some mistake about the name ; 
 but I was hospitably received by the sheik. Upon each 
 house in the village was a little tabernacle of wicker-work, 
 the walls being plastered with clay, and the roof formed of a 
 few boughs. In one of these I took up my quarters. After 
 a while three priests came to call upon me, one of them was 
 the sheik's son. With another the Bishop of Tyre was stay- 
 ing. Being tired arid weak, I could not exert myself much 
 to talk to them, and they, apparently indisposed to take 
 trouble to understand my broken Arabic, soon left me. The 
 
THE ENVOY. 317 
 
 sheik was not at home. The yard adjoining the house was 
 full of cattle, which made a great noise during the night, 
 and there were a few slight showers which rather alarmed 
 me, as I was fearful of my bed getting wet. The rain, how- 
 ever, was very slight. 
 
 "September 20th. In the morning, before I started, a 
 respectable-looking old man came to me, who, as I under- 
 stand, was my host. To his capacity of sheik and farmer 
 he adds that of merchant, being a sort of agent or corre- 
 spondent of Atallah's at Tyre. 
 
 " I set off about sunrise. I felt weak from want of sleep, 
 and this made me impatient and irritable. About an hour 
 after starting, I passed a large pillar on an elevation, com- 
 posed of pieces of stone, and from the stone lying about, I 
 conjectured that there were many more, or perhaps all were 
 parts of the same. I was now pursuing an unusual route 
 at the foot of the hills that bound the plain of Acre. I 
 passed some fellahs gathering figs. I asked for a few, and 
 a man would have given me some had he not been prevented 
 by a woman. Our road lay through one fine village and then 
 near another under a fig-tree. Joseph having brought me 
 some figs and sour milk from the village, I made a lunch, and 
 rested for nearly two hours. I saw here an Arab who had 
 come from the other side of the Jordan chiefly for the pur- 
 pose of living upon the hospitality of his neighbours. This 
 was no uncommon case. Many of the children here ap- 
 peared very wretched. They were nearly all Mussulmans, 
 and brought up in much wickedness and superstition. Pro- 
 ceeding on our journey, we entered a more undulating and 
 slightly woody or rather bushy country. We left Acre on 
 
318 THE ENVOY. 
 
 the right, and before sunset reached Sheff Namee, and found 
 quarters in the house of Elias, a friend of Joseph's. Sheff 
 Namee is a considerable village, containing a population of 
 Mussulmans, Christians, Jews and Druses. A few of the 
 Jews here follow agriculture, which is at present a very un- 
 usual pursuit for that people. This place was visited about 
 a year ago by the Rev. Mr Wimbolt, Jewish Missionary at 
 Beyrout. The Christians pretended to be rather displeased 
 that he had given books to the Jews and not to them, and 
 had gone to lodge at the house of a Druse. The truth was, 
 they had refused him admission into their houses. They 
 said, too, that the Jews had destroyed the books that had 
 been given them, using the leaves for waste paper, and the 
 covers for their defters. Several Christians came round me ; 
 some were anxious for Psalters, and one or two for Bibles. 
 I gave away a few tracts. My host told me that he and 
 many of the inhabitants were ready to become English. I 
 made one man read a few passages to the others, and en- 
 deavoured to explain their error about becoming English. 
 
 " September 21 st. In the morning I took a short walk 
 in the bazaar, and met the reader of the preceding night. 
 He and two others accompanied me to the house. I shewed 
 them a Bible, which I had intended as a present, and spoke 
 of the sum of money it must cost at least forty piastres. 
 This was to enhance its value in their opinion, as they 
 seemed to be little able to estimate its real worth. I found 
 that they were unwilling to receive it ; and this, I was told 
 afterwards, was because they thought I wanted the money 
 for it. There is here a large castle, in a tolerable state of 
 preservation, built by some powerful sheik, whose house has 
 
THE ENVOY. 319 
 
 now fallen before the Osmanli rule, My host was satisfied 
 with a moderate backshish, and sent a nephew to guide me 
 on the road to Basia. Here I heard of Nasm, whom I had 
 wished to visit at the last-mentioned place. One man had 
 read the Bible with him, and learnt something of Protest- 
 antism. 
 
 " The road from Sheff Namee to Basia lay along the back 
 of Mount CarmeL We rode for some time through wood- 
 land, the right of pasturage in which is claimed by the in- 
 habitants of Sheff Namee to a considerable distance. We 
 afterwards crossed a stream (a branch of the Kishon, I be- 
 lieve,) in which there was a good supply of water. On this 
 was a mill, and near it we met several Bedouins. We then 
 passed an undulating country, woody and cultivated, and 
 near a village, entered upon the western end of the plain of 
 Esdraelon. Here we found water from a spring, and many 
 flocks gathered round ; at a distance were two Arab encamp- 
 ments. We passed near a mound, which marks the place 
 where Megiddo once stood. We had now crossed the plain, 
 and once more entered an undulating country, that had pro- 
 duced much wheat, though it had at present a barren appear- 
 ance. We halted near a poor spring, where there was no 
 shade. I was glad to climb up a little to a small cavern, 
 where I lay down for an hour. A number of camels passed, 
 going to bring wheat from the Arabs about the plain of 
 Sharon. A little before sunset we reached the village of 
 Suberim. Our guide here proposed taking me to the house 
 of the only Christian in the place, but he had no accommo- 
 dation, except a very small blacksmith's shop, which I did 
 not feel disposed to enter. Joseph went to the sheik to 
 
320 THE ENVOY. 
 
 look for quarters, and he kindly received me in a new room, 
 which he had recently built for purposes of hospitality. * 
 My host brought coffee, and many people assembled ; some 
 of my old friends the Adowans were there. It appears they 
 were living on this side Jordan. The sheik was amused at 
 my Arabic. The pronunciation of the people here seemed 
 peculiar. 
 
 " They had carried into the village a great abundance of 
 wheat, which they were still thrashing. The people made 
 many efforts to converse ; and the sheik would not believe I 
 was a lass, but a bey. There was an old man who said 
 something about the Lord. I said, ' He was the Son of 
 God.' He replied, as Mussulmans do, c God is neither be- 
 gotten nor begets ;' but seemed to understand when I spoke 
 of our weakness and inability to comprehend the mysteries 
 of God's nature. One man applied to me for medicine ; he 
 had a stomach complaint, brought on by eating rice for a 
 wager, an exploit of which some of the people in this coun- 
 try are fond of boasting. The sheik passed the night in 
 the room with me, armed with a long stick to protect me 
 against robbers. Joseph and the Mokani slept outside, and 
 the former seemed very apprehensive. The people in many 
 districts live in perpetual fear, having no notion of any other 
 protection than their own power of resistance. That the 
 fear of punishment from the government could be any 
 restraint seldom seemed to enter their minds. There was 
 no one here who could read, and the people were strict 
 Mussulmans. There was only one Christian in the village. 
 
 * The sheiks are frequently expected to entertain local governors and 
 brother sheiks, especially among the wandering Arabs. 
 
THE ENVOY. 321 
 
 "September 22d. We set off soon after sunrise. The 
 sheik was satisfied with twelve or fourteen piastres for his 
 present. 
 
 "The country was for some distance undulating and 
 wooded, but, afterwards, opened into the vast plain that 
 extends along the whole coast of Palestine, from Carmel 
 southwards. We passed a few villages in which the houses 
 were of a very rude description, being the merest mud-huts 
 I had yet seen. The inhabitants were all Mussulmans. I 
 noticed, in the part of the plain I entered, many marks of 
 ruined villages ; the surrounding lands, which used to be 
 cultivated by the peasantry, are now occupied by Arabs. We 
 reached Baaia about noon. It is a good-sized village, and 
 the houses, of clay and stone, are large of their kind. My 
 object here was to bring a few books to Nasir el Gimel, 
 whom I had formerly met at Nablous. We found his house 
 situated in a large court, formed by several dwellings in a 
 kind of square. It was shut off from the rest of the village 
 by a door ; most of the other houses were similarly arranged. 
 Nasir was not at home, and his brother Abdallah, whom I 
 had also met at Nablous, soon recognised me, and received 
 me very kindly. I had intended to spend the Sunday here, 
 and looked forward with some pleasure to a day of rest, but 
 of worldly comfort there was not much to be found, accord- 
 ing to our notions. The house consisted of only one large 
 room. Half of the floor, raised five feet, formed the sleeping- 
 place for the families consisting of the father and mother of 
 Nasir, an unmarried son, Nasir and his brother Abdallah, 
 their wives and children respectively. One corner of the 
 lower space was also raised about eighteen inches from the 
 
322 THE ENVOY. 
 
 floor, and this seemed to form a" sort of parlour and was now 
 appropriated to my use, my carpet being spread upon it. 
 I told Abdallah I had brought them some books, which 
 pleased him very much. The books I had formerly given to 
 Nasir had been taken away by some of his friends from 
 Nazareth. They were anxious to have their children taught. 
 The old man's former objections to listen to the Scriptures 
 were now removed. The family was evidently respectable 
 in its way, but satisfied with a very dirty condition ; clouds 
 of dust were stirred up in honour of my arrival, but very 
 little was removed. Towards evening, Nasir made his ap- 
 pearance from Jaffa, where he had been on business, accom- 
 panied by a young Damascene merchant. 
 
 " My friend was very glad to see me, though I was sorry 
 to find he did not understand my Arabic so well as his 
 brother. This was the only Christian family in the village, 
 the rest were all Mussulmans. Nasir had been attracted here 
 for the purposes of trade, and induced his family to accom- 
 pany him. He carries on a small business in the village, 
 and with the wandering Arabs in the neighbourhood, ex- 
 changing for agricultural property the manufactures of 
 Damascus and imports of Jaffa. Several people came in the 
 evening, and one very talkative Mussulman. They had some 
 worldly business to settle, so there was not much opportunity 
 for religious conversation, though something was said on the 
 subject. I prepared to pass the night outside the house on 
 a little raised platform before the door, sleeping, it may be 
 said, amongst the horses, one of which was tied at my feet. 
 
 "September 23d, (Sunday). I had hoped to assemble 
 at least Nasir and his family for prayer and reading the 
 
THE ENVOY. 323 
 
 Word, and had, the previous 'evening, asked him about it, and 
 he seemed to consent ; but Abdallah had much business in 
 hand, and frequently called his brother out, so that my object 
 was frustrated. The Sabbath is little valued amongst these 
 people, owing to their having been taught by their Churches 
 to reverence it very slightly : then, too, they reside among 
 those who do not regard it at all During the morning, 
 however, Nasir read the Bible for some time. In the after- 
 noon I went out, and sat under some almond trees on a little 
 elevation opposite the village, and was glad to get an oppor- 
 tunity of retiring from my companions for prayer and quiet 
 reading of the Word of God. Often have I recalled our 
 Saviour's practice of departing into a mountain apart to 
 pray. This was my only chance of privacy and retirement. 
 From this elevation I saw many Mohammedan villages 
 around. The inhabitants are in a state of great darkness. 
 When will the time come when the gospel shall be again 
 preached here in all its power ? I have observed that the 
 Christians, imperfect as they are, are generally remarkable 
 for the absence of that wild ferocity of manner which marks, 
 in a greater or less degree, the Mohammedans around them ; 
 though there are, of course, many exceptions. Nasir seemed 
 thankful for the books I gave him for himself and his 
 children. I urged upon him the importance of sending his 
 eldest boy to the school at Nablous, which he might easily 
 do by arranging for his lodging and board with one of his 
 friends in that place. This poor man and his brother are 
 making an effort to emerge from their spiritual ignorance. 
 May the Lord guide and prosper their efforts 1 They have 
 got much to learn, with very few opportunities. Their man- 
 
324 THE ENVOY. 
 
 ner towards me was kind and pleasing, and deeply did I 
 regret that my very slight knowledge of their language pre- 
 vented me from declaring to them the gospel-message as 
 fully as I could have wished. 
 
 " September 24^. This morning I left my kind friends, 
 and set off for Nablous. Nasir accompanied me a little way. 
 The road, at first, lay through a plain, and afterwards, along the 
 mountain country of Samaria. There were large olive-groves. 
 Our route was by the south of Sebaste. We passed over the 
 ruins of a town, the name of which is now unknown ; a few 
 pillars and cut stones mark the spot. After four hours we 
 entered the valley between Gerizim and Ebal, and I soon 
 found myself in Nablous, which was almost like coming 
 home again I saw so many well-known faces. I went to the 
 house of Assan Aoudie, who was absent, but his wife invited 
 me to take up my quarters there. I called on David Tanous, 
 who received me very kindly. Here I made a very short 
 stay, as he was going to dinner with some friends. I visited 
 the school. There was about the usual number of children 
 present ; but the master informed me that a great many had 
 been admitted since the Bishop's visit, but that several of 
 them were very irregular in their attendance. In the even- 
 ing the schoolmaster and his brother came to Aoudie' s, and 
 Jacob, as usual, was ready with questions. He asked about 
 the apparent discrepancies in the Gospel narrative of the 
 resurrection, and seemed to understand and be much pleased 
 with the theory of Dr Townsend, in his 'Discourses on a 
 Harmony of the Gospels.' He also asked about the eating 
 of blood, which he thought was forbidden to Christians, 
 (Acts xv.) I gave him my opinion that this passage was 
 
THE ENVOY. 325 
 
 taken only by many as applying to the period and its pecu- 
 liar circumstances, and that Christians were at liberty in this 
 matter, but if they had any doubts on the subject, it was 
 better for them to abstain. 
 
 "September 25th. Last night the schoolmaster requested 
 me to apply for an increase of his salary. This is a pity, be- 
 cause it shews rather a grasping disposition, which is one 
 characteristic of the Arabs. When they are well off, they 
 directly think of getting more. (Would that many Christians 
 had this disposition in respect of the little faith they have !) 
 David Tanous did not approve -of the application, as he 
 thought that the stipend was quite sufficient. 
 
 " There are trials connected with the work here. The 
 want of a constant witness of Christian character amongst 
 them, who might lead them to think on gospel-truth, is very 
 perceptible. Aoudie was expected, and I waited some time, 
 in the hope of seeing him, but was obliged to depart before 
 his arrival. An old gentleman of Tyre asked to be allowed 
 to accompany me ; I willingly acceded to his proposal. 
 
 " Not feeling strong enough to undertake the whole dis- 
 tance in one day, I turned aside to stop the night at a 
 village on the way. The ascent was very steep. We were 
 hospitably received by the sheik, (a rather young man,) but 
 were taken to sleep on the top of a low part of the house. 
 He shared our ' bedroom,' and, in addition to the stereotyped 
 coffee, gave us delicious grapes, honey, and eggs for supper. 
 
 "September 26th. We left about two o'clock for Jeru- 
 salem. Rode amongst vineyards and fig-gardens. Soon 
 after daylight we were at Beeri, and halted there a short 
 time. About nine we reached Jerusalem." 
 
326 THE ENVOY. 
 
 In a letter written at this time, Mr Bowen sums up the 
 impressions made on him by the Druses, among whom he had 
 been travelling: 
 
 " The Druses, I think, have in general more steadiness and 
 solidity of character than is usually found amongst the 
 Syrians. They are very hospitable, but crafty and worldly. 
 The appearance of the mountain population and their villages 
 is much more pleasing and civilised than that of the villages 
 of southern Syria ; there is more industry and cleanliness." 
 
 Mr Bowen did not remain more than five or six days in 
 Jerusalem after his return from this journey. On the fol- 
 lowing Monday he left it again for Egypt, accompanying 
 Bishop Gobat as his chaplain during his visit to that country. 
 He did not keep as full a journal as usual this time, so that 
 there is little of interest to extract from it. His kindly readi- 
 ness to help was called forth on the short voyage from Jaffa 
 to Alexandria by the illness of a young English lady on 
 board, who had lived as governess in a family in the Levant, 
 and, being now laid aside with Syrian fever, was returning to 
 England alone. Mr Bowen looked after her ; and, having 
 seen that all was done that could be, on board the steamer, 
 superintended her removal into the quarantine. Nor was 
 this the only occasion on which his abilities as a nurse were 
 called forth during this journey. The Bishop was attacked 
 by a serious illness while in Egypt, and Mr Bowen attended 
 him with much care and thoughtfulness. This prevented his 
 doing or seeing much while there, beyond conferring with the 
 missionaries, who gratefully acknowledged the benefit they 
 
THE ENVOY. 327 
 
 derived from his valuable suggestions, and the help and en- 
 couragement they felt from communion with his earnest 
 believing spirit Here, as elsewhere, he won all hearts, leav- 
 ing behind him a sunny memory, and strengthening and 
 confirming his fellow-labourers in their work of love. 
 
 He returned to Palestine through the desert, in company 
 with the Bishop, and reached Jerusalem on the 15th Decem- 
 ber, where he resumed his Arabic studies, and commenced 
 preparations for the long journey into Mesopotamia, which 
 he now contemplated. 
 
 He again set out from the Holy City the first week in the 
 new year, (1 850,) spent two days at Jaffa, and then went on 
 to Beyrout, where he was glad to learn that his suggestion 
 of a school for the workpeople of the silk factory at Shulan 
 had been acted on by Mrs Scott. 
 
 From Beyrout our traveller proceeded to Smyrna, and 
 much enjoyed the society of the kind and single-hearted 
 missionaries there, remarking that he had been greatly re- 
 freshed by the prayerful atmosphere of the mission-house. 
 He also heard that the Greek priest Eustathius, before men- 
 tioned, was going on well. Here he remained until the llth 
 February, spending his time in endeavouring to improve his 
 knowledge of the language and people, and conferring with 
 and assisting his missionary brethren, both English and 
 American. He felt that it was desirable, not only to keep 
 up the mission, but to extend its operations, and make it 
 more aggressive, even declaring that our missionaries should 
 preach the gospel openly to the Turks, that they might see 
 the sincerity of our profession, and our evident longing for 
 their conversion for the sake of the salvation of their souls. 
 
328 THE ENVOY. 
 
 " My present feeling," he writes in his journal, speaking of a 
 Mohammedan, who openly professed to believe the gospel, but 
 was not yet baptized, " My present feeling is that, had I the 
 opportunity, I would baptize a believing Turk, and though 
 he fell a victim to Mohammed's cruel law, I believe that his 
 death would be the means of opening the Turkish empire to 
 the Word of God, as it is to be expected that Christian Europe, 
 notwithstanding her indifference to Christianity, would still 
 use her power to prevent Christians from perishing by the 
 sword for the profession of their faith ; and should opposi- 
 tion be raised, and the missionaries expelled, I should argue 
 good from it : inquiry would be excited, the violence would 
 be explained, and thus it might be extensively known that 
 Christians were really anxious to fulfil their Lord's command 
 of preaching the gospel to every creature." 
 
 We return to the journal on his leaving Smyrna : 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 " February llth. Embarked in the Austrian steamer 
 Vienne, which had formerly taken me from Smyrna to 
 Beyrout. A squall with rain having coming on, we cast 
 anchor for about two hours near the castle. A French two- 
 decker which had been gliding majestically out of the har- 
 bour anchored near us : her crew did not give one the im- 
 pression of smart seamanship. 
 
 "February I2th. Early this morning we were between 
 Mytilene and the mainland, and passing through the Channel, 
 rounded a headland, and were in sight of Tenedos and Imbros, 
 whose lofty summits were covered with snow. On the right 
 side were the hills of Asia Minor, also white. We now passed 
 
THE ENVOY. 329 
 
 along the extensive plain of Troy. Near that shore must 
 have been the Grecian camp : there were drawn up in old 
 times the QQCLI 1/776? ^A^aiwv. There walked Achilles in 
 his silent wrath, by the side of the sounding sea. Heroic 
 memories, all passed away ! How doubtful the authority of 
 their mythic history ! Yet through the genius of grand old 
 Homer, and the mighty power of poetry, these plains will 
 ever live with an imaginative interest all their own. At the 
 same time, it may be questioned whether had the subject 
 of these noble epics been the truth of God, instead of the 
 legends of man and the purpose of that ancient song, the 
 abasing rather than the exalting of human pride their im- 
 mortality would have been equally secure. 
 
 "Towards evening the point of the Chersonesus was in 
 sight, and we soon entered the far-famed straits of the Dar- 
 danelles. The castles which we passed were some of them 
 very formidable in appearance, but not much to be dreaded 
 by a British fleet ; they do not appear to have been improved 
 of late. Here Xerxes constructed his bridge of boats, a 
 monument of the pride and humiliation of man. Some 
 little time after night we entered the sea of Marmora. 
 
 " February 1 3th. This morning, soon after sunrise, Con- 
 stantinople was in sight, and at ten we anchored in the Gol- 
 den Horn. The view at the entrance disappointed me, though 
 perhaps the state of the atmosphere impaired it. There was 
 certainly much that was beautiful, as well as picturesque and 
 singular to European eyes, but no striking features presented 
 themselves. We landed about 10 A.M., and, contrary to the 
 usual practice, I was very closely searched by a douanier, 
 who looked most curiously into almost every package, and at 
 
330 THE ENVOY. 
 
 last required that the luggage should be taken to the custom- 
 house, chiefly, I believe, on account of the books, of which 
 there were a considerable number. I went immediately to 
 the consulate and stated the circumstances, on which the 
 consul very obligingly sent the English harbour-master to 
 look after the business for me. All the packages containing 
 clothes were given up after having been again examined, but 
 the books were detained for the decision of the proper office, 
 probably a censor of the press. 
 
 "February 1 5th. I received a note from Sir Stratford Can- 
 ning, saying that he would see me after four o'clock. Accord- 
 ingly I called, and had a pleasant interview with him. I felt 
 more of shyness than I have known for a long time, on being 
 introduced to this distinguished diplomatist. He is of the 
 middle size, white-headed, a small quiet gray eye, and slightly 
 full and bushy brow ; he is somewhat abrupt in manner, but 
 very kind. We talked on general subjects. He has taken 
 great interest in promoting toleration here. Meeting with 
 any one of such exalted rank is a new experience for me ; I 
 trust it may not be a snare. I arranged to preach on Sun- 
 day. No chapel here for the English residents, but a room 
 at the palace. 
 
 " February 17th, (Sunday.) Preached at the embassy ; a 
 good congregation ; afterwards lunched there ; Lady Canning 
 very kind. I accepted the invitation, remembering that our 
 Lord went in to eat bread with one of His hearers on the 
 Sabbath-day. Felt, however, that there was too much of the 
 world, and did not keep myself from wordly conversation as 
 I might have done. Went in the course of the day to the 
 English hospital. I found there several sailors, who seemed 
 
THE ENVOY. 331 
 
 thankful for my visit, and listened with apparent interest to 
 what I had to say. 
 
 "February 18th. It rained in the morning. Met at Mr 
 
 E 's a Mr Wood, an American missionary ; he spoke 
 
 of the change among the Turks with regard to Christianity. 
 Mentioned an instance of a Greek Christian, who having been 
 persecuted and threatened with banishment on account of his 
 profession of Protestantism, was brought before the chief of 
 the police, by whom the designs of his enemies were frustrated. 
 When the chief of police dismissed him, he gave him a caution 
 that he should keep quiet, and not be trying to make prose- 
 lytes ; the man said that he could not but speak the things 
 he knew and believed. The pacha told him that he might 
 preach Chri>t, and say that He died for sinners, but that lie 
 should not abii>c and insult the other churches, and call them 
 idol temples. This was remarkable language in the mouth 
 of a Turk. 
 
 " Another incident in this history illustrates a little the 
 state of Turkey. When the Greek was seized by the beadles 
 of the patriarch, he went through the streets with them, and 
 made considerable outcry. thi> led to the whole party being 
 shut up for the night by the Turkish police, and thus the 
 affair was brought before the authori 
 
 "The American missionaries also state, that since the for- 
 mation of the Protestant sect of Armenians, i 1 has 
 been brought under the attention of the Mussulmans, in a 
 way never attempted before. They have heard and h-arip-d 
 more of true Christianity in the last three years than they 
 ever did in previous times. 
 
 " It rained the whole day, and the streets were very dirty. 
 
332 THE ENVOY. 
 
 I went in the evening to Bebel, about five miles up the Bos- 
 
 phorus, to visit Mr H , and took the opportunity of going 
 
 in a barge with Mr Wood. The state of the weather was 
 very unfavourable for seeing the beauties of this celebrated 
 strait ; but it was easy to observe that it had much of the 
 picturesque, and under a bright summer sky would be very 
 beautiful. We passed no less than three palaces of the Sultan, 
 one now building. That which he lives in presented a very 
 handsome front to the water, much in the Eastern style of 
 ornament, but not overdone, I thought. We arrived at Bebel 
 about sunset. On the voyage, my companion mentioned that 
 the English were prohibited by treaty from proseletysing in 
 this country. The American mission seems to flourish. They 
 work by missions composed of several stations and labourers. 
 They have continual communication with each other, and 
 annual conferences. These are valuable in many respects, 
 and tend to carry out the view recently expressed at the 
 C.M.H., by Archdeacon Dealtry, that a mission should be 
 
 strong. After sitting up late in conversation with Mr H , 
 
 on the state of the evangelical clergy in England, and on the 
 views of a personal reign which he opposed, I retired to 
 rest, on a shake-down in the study an arrangement that 
 shewed the genuine hospitality of my entertainer. 
 
 "February I9th. This morning accompanied Mr Wood 
 to the academy, where I was introduced to Mr Hamlyn, the 
 superintendent ; found him in a sort of laboratory, with an 
 air pump on the table, and three children about him, to whom 
 he had apparently been shewing experiments. There were a 
 number of instruments in the room for chemical purposes, 
 and to illustrate mechanics, of a similar kind to those in the 
 
THE ENVOY. 333 
 
 school at Abboye. Mr Hamlyn remarked that some of the 
 people said that these things were machines for making 
 Protestants. No doubt, the notion in having so much to do 
 with these scientific things, is to lead the people to think, 
 and, at the same time, impress them with the fact that Pro- 
 testants have much knowledge. 
 
 " The course of education here is chiefly scientific, embrac- 
 ing the modern and ancient Armenian, English arithmetic, 
 algebra, moral science, Butler's Analogy, Paley's Evidences, 
 besides religious instruction. Some young men from this 
 institution have been ordained as preachers to Armenian 
 congregations. The students are of various ages ; they receive 
 gratuitous board and education ; but must provide themselves 
 with clothing. Those who are poor and are not supplied by 
 their friends, meet these necessary wants by working at some 
 handicraft, (chiefly in tin, sheet iron, stoves, and pipes,) on 
 which they are employed during the intervals of school hours. 
 There were twenty-four students, and the annual allowance 
 for the establishment is two thousand dollars. 
 
 " Returning to Mr H , I met at his house a gentleman, 
 
 commander of a French government steamer here, at the 
 disposal of the ambassador of that republic. He is a Protest- 
 ant and about to be married to an English lady. He ac- 
 companied Mr H and myself on a visit to Mr Schauffler, 
 
 a naturalised American, and of the American Board of Foreign 
 Missions for the Jews ; he is German by birth ; a fine, 
 venerable old Christian. He deprecated the plans of the 
 London Society, in their idea at one time of occupying the 
 Holy Land in every town where there were Jews, to the 
 abandonment of other more important stations, and con- 
 
334 THE ENVOY. 
 
 demned isolated missions. Mr Schauffler had been chiefly 
 engaged in literary labours, having translated the Bible into 
 Indio-Spanish, and was now busy with a Hebrew grammar ; 
 such works, he said, were not directly missionary, but he was 
 anxious, by literary efforts, to get the Jews out of their per- 
 verted habit of thought. He works in concert with the 
 missionaries of the Scotch Church in this place. He also 
 spoke of the mode of selecting missionary candidates. They 
 are all educated at the theological seminaries of the various 
 states, and designed for the ministry at home or abroad. 
 Every candidate for the ministry is solemnly charged that he 
 should be ready to do the Lord's work anywhere, making 
 his future sphere of labour a subject of prayer to be settled 
 by Divine guidance. The designation of any candidate 
 for missionary work is left to the heads of the colleges and 
 leading members of the council, and none are selected but 
 those conspicuous for piety and talent. This is a very 
 wise procedure, and I can bear testimony that the American 
 missionaries are generally characterised by devotedness, intel- 
 lectual ability, sound common sense, and steady business 
 habits. 
 
 " Returned to dinner at Mr H *s. Captain B was 
 
 so kind as to give me a passage down in his boat. Saw at 
 Mr H 's a Hungarian countess, wife of a refugee. Un- 
 derstood that 0. Gorham, the Irish rebel, had been aided by 
 my American friends. 
 
 " February 20th. Called at the palace, and arranged to 
 go with Lady Canning to Haskery to-morrow. I have 
 thought much of the duty of remaining here for a little time, 
 for the sake of the English congregation, and trust the Lord 
 
THE ENVOY. 335 
 
 will direct me in this. In the evening drank tea at Mr 
 Goodall's. There was quite a large party. The host is the 
 venerable father of the American mission here a very open- 
 hearted lively man. A sweet hymn was sung in a spirited 
 manner, by a numerous assembly, with the assistance of a fine 
 piano, of Boston manufacture. The religious exercise took 
 place soon after tea. The conversation was general, ranging 
 from religious to various topics. 
 
 "February 2lst. At twelve went to wait on Lady Can- 
 ning, and descended with her, through the burying-ground 
 of Pera, to the Turkish arsenal, where we embarked on the 
 Goldon Horn ; passed many large men-of-war, and landed 
 at the village of Haskery. We visited several houses occu- 
 pied by British subjects, chiefly English and Scotch engineers. 
 I proposed going up on Tuesday next to meet the English 
 people there, a too hasty suggestion, as I found afterwards 
 that the Scotch Jewish missionary does something for them, 
 having a service there on Sunday. Two young women we 
 saw were decidedly pious. Lady Canning seemed quite at 
 home in these visits, designed to promote the welfare of 
 her countrymen. After we had concluded our round, we 
 ascended the hill over the village, and sat down for lunch. 
 Returned to Pera on foot. 
 
 "February 22d. Called on Mr Allen, missionary of the 
 Scotch Church to the Jews. He seemed a very intelligent 
 Christian. Speaking of missionaries, he said : ' You ought 
 to send out men of a superior stamp, in every respect fully 
 recognised as ministers of the Church of England/ 
 
 "That our missionaries should be thoroughly qualified, 
 and entitled to expect preferment in the English Church, is, 
 
336 THE ENVOY. 
 
 I think, important on many accounts. One reason is that 
 if, after two or three years experience, it were found that 
 any individual had not the necessary missionary qualifica- 
 tions, he might without difficulty obtain a position at home, 
 in which his services might still be acceptable and useful. 
 Mr A feels encouragement in his school. 
 
 "From his house I went to see the exhibition of the 
 dancing dervishes. Their mosque is near the main street 
 of Pera. There were many people, several of them soldiers, 
 about the entrance. I made my way in, having taken off 
 my goloshes. There was some squeezing about the door- 
 way. A short soldier behind me was very anxious for me 
 to take off my hat ; and, seeing that his motive simply was 
 to obtain a view of the proceedings, I indulged him, though 
 1 do not think he was much benefited by the civility. The 
 proceedings had commenced when I entered. The dervishes 
 wore high, light-brown felt caps, and olive-green dresses. 
 They were walking round in a circular space, in the centre 
 of the building, surrounded with places for spectators, like a 
 a small circus in England. There were galleries all round 
 filled with spectators, of various nations and degrees. Among 
 them were the Turkish effendi in hussar costume ; others 
 looking like Arab merchants or mollahs ; and the Persian 
 with his high lambskin cap. 
 
 " The dervishes were walking round quietly, turning about, 
 and bowing low to a mat on the side of the circle opposite 
 the door. An old man, apparently their chief, in a grey robe, 
 with a green turban round his cap, took his stand there 
 afterwards. There was a low music, with a kind of pipe 
 or clarionet, which was sometimes exchanged for the drum 
 
THE ENVOY. 337 
 
 and voice. After the slow motion, they set off twirling 
 round,, like tumbling children. The motion was quick, 
 and they extended their hands, wheeling about incessantly 
 for some time. Twice or thrice was the exercise intermitted, 
 and again renewed, the performers appearing to suffer from 
 the effects of their evolutions. The old chief stood by a 
 pillar, looking with an affected solemnity at the performance 
 of his flock. The music and singing resembled in some 
 measure what I had heard among the North American In- 
 dians. At the conclusion, the dervishes saluted their chief 
 and each other. 
 
 "February 24<th. After performing the morning service 
 at the Palace, I visited the hospital The men were thank- 
 ful. A few sailors were there visiting their sick comrades, 
 and I spoke to them for some time. One lad, from the 
 Shetland Isles, was very ill ; he had by him a book on early 
 piety, given him by a minister at Sunderland. He seemed 
 to be pleased, and I hope instructed, in reading it. I was 
 deeply interested in seeing how this little gift had comforted 
 the young sufferer in the hospital of Constantinople. His 
 name was Gilbert Gandie. 
 
 "February 25th. Saw the American girls' school. The 
 number was not large about twenty-six ; the arrangements 
 simple and good. Each girl had a little table, with a large 
 desk attached to it, for her books. They read and sung in 
 Armenian. They had hymns prepared by Mr Riggs, and 
 set to music, which they learn by note in the European way. 
 Mr Riggs closed with prayer. 
 
 " February 26th. Went to Haskeiy. The way was wet, 
 and snow fell Went to the house of Mr Langdale, where I 
 
338 THE ENVOY. 
 
 t was to pass the night ; and thence to Mr Thompson, the Scotch 
 missionary to the Jews, who had given me his room for the 
 meeting. I had some agreeable conversation on his work. 
 He seems an energetic and enterprising man, and uses the 
 gospel freely in his Jewish schools. The evening was un- 
 favourable, but I thought the attendance encouraging.* I 
 spoke to them on the duties and dangers of Christians in 
 these places, far from the means of grace, and proposed that 
 they should endeavour to form some plans for their mutual 
 improvement, and for the establishment of a Sunday school 
 for the children. 
 
 " March 3cZ, (Sunday.) The attendance at the service was 
 good. Several were present who had not been there before. 
 After service I went to the hospital and to the American 
 Mission Chapel. The Armenian service was going on ; a 
 native preacher officiated. The room was full of attentive 
 hearers ; many seemed intelligent and devout. There was a 
 baptism ; a new member was admitted to the church ; and 
 the holy communion was administered, of which I partook 
 thankful to give this proof of my fellowship with my Presby- 
 terian brethren. The whole service was very long, but, though 
 I did not understand a word, I was much interested in see- 
 ing the people offering an intelligent spiritual worship, in- 
 stead of the old superstitious ritual. I was much struck in 
 thinking of the republican form of Church government thus 
 introduced under the Turkish rule. This small innovation 
 may be the prelude to mighty changes. 
 
 * Mr Bowen afterwards arranged to hold a meeting here with the Eng- 
 lish residents. 
 
THE ENVOY. 339 
 
 "Evening unprofitably spent. I do not think that the 
 table d'hote is the place for me on Sunday. 
 
 " March <th. I went this morning at nine on board the 
 
 Fairy yacht of Sir H M , to go with his party over 
 
 the mosques and seraglio, which seems to be a duty here. 
 The Palace did not appear at all remarkable. The views of 
 the Bosphorus, Sea of Marmora, and Golden Horn, from 
 some of the windows, are very fine. We saw an armoury, 
 museum of ancient statues, the Mint, and St Sophia. This 
 famous structure is very heavy outside, a confused heap 
 of high domes leaning on each other round the great dome ; 
 but inside the effect was fine. We visited the mosque of 
 Sultans Achmed and Mahmoud. There was much orna- 
 ment, and gilded sentences of the Koran put up in various 
 places. A large congregation, a considerable portion of which 
 WITC women, were listening to a preacher at the great mosque. 
 The people looked very hard at our shoes as we entered. On 
 the whole, the sights were worth seeing, but we paid dear for 
 our visits. I was too sensible of the influence of the worldly 
 society in which I found myself, to make any effort to im- 
 prove the time. 
 
 ! irch 8th. Mr Johnson, an Armenian, called, once 
 an agent to Bishop Southgate. I asked him what was his 
 business. He said, to make known to the Armenians the 
 character and liturgy of the Anglican Church. This I 
 thought was rather useless. He is about to be dismissed, 
 and does not know what to do. I went to the custom-house 
 about my books, which had been detained there, and found 
 .that there was a number of Arabic prayer-books, which had 
 
340 THE ENVOY. 
 
 been in custody several years. I hope to get possession of 
 them. 
 
 " March ] Oth. After morning service at the Palace, three 
 English sea-captains came, and asked me to hold a service 
 on board one of their ships a request to which I gladly 
 acceded. Met in the street Osman Effendi, a Turkish officer, 
 and companion of my voyage from Smyrna, who came home 
 with me tq my hotel. Afterwards I went down with the 
 three captains, and held a service on board the schooner 
 Observer. About thirty sailors were present. I felt much 
 encouraged by the attendance and attention. 
 
 "March \\th. I was present at the funeral of the poor 
 sailor boy, Gilbert Gandie of the Shetland Isles, who died on 
 Saturday, I trust in the faith. A respectable party of sail- 
 ors attended. I then went in quest of Johnson, and found 
 him after some difficulty. He has a good many prayer- 
 books, Arabic, Turkish, Armenian, French, Italian, &c. 
 Went to the custom-house, and received ten prayer-books 
 of the Malta edition, which had been lying there five or six 
 years. Johnson thought that they were some which had 
 been taken from Kas Michael of Mosul. 
 
 "March 13th. Snow in the morning. Called at the 
 hospital ; one man very ill again. Long conversation with 
 the sailors on their grievances ; they complained of the con- 
 duct of the shipmasters in tyrannising over them in many 
 ways. I endeavoured to shew them that if they were true 
 Christians, their difficulties would be very much lessened. 
 
 "March 14<th. Went this morning to Makrikui. We 
 sailed from the old bridge over the Golden Horn, through 
 great part of Constantinople, to the seven towers at the 
 
THE ENVOY. 34)1 
 
 angle near the Sea of Marmora. Thence I rode to Makrikui, 
 where there are some large iron-works and a cotton factory. 
 Saw an old gentleman, an engineer in the Sultan's employ, 
 chief of these works. He is a Wesleyan, and seems to have 
 made some efforts for the benefit of his countrymen, but he 
 
 is now going home. Saw Mr P , director of the cotton 
 
 factory, and Mr D , of the ironworks. They all seemed 
 
 to feel that it would be desirable to have some means of 
 grace established amongst them. There are here 30 men, 
 18 women, 39 children, total, 87. Returning, I rode by 
 the old walls of Stamboul for some distance, and entered 
 the city by another route. There seemed to be much space 
 occupied by gardens and burial-grounds within the walls. 
 
 "March IQth. Snow. Count , an Italian refugee, 
 
 called. He wanted to become a Protestant, that he mini it 
 get an English passport. I could scarcely understand him ; 
 so I employed an interpreter, who spoke Italian to him and 
 French to in*-, ami was greatly shocked at the idea of the 
 other changing his religion so easily. 
 
 "April Zth. I leave Constantinople to-morrow. Spent 
 the evening at the Embassy. Still much to do in the way of 
 packing. We have put up a number of books, chiefly Arabic, 
 with a few Turkish volumes, for the journey. The difficulties 
 of the custom-house are so great that it has made us cautious 
 about taking many of the latter class. 
 
 " My stay in Constantinople has been most delightful to 
 rne, chiefly on account of the great kindness of the family at 
 the British Palace, as well as from the employment I have 
 found in seeking to promote good amongst the British popu- 
 lation, from all of whom I have received much attention. I 
 
342 THE ENVOY. 
 
 feel much regret at leaving, as well as much sorrow that my 
 efforts at usefulness have been so poor. 
 
 " April 6th. Went out to the consul-general on business, 
 and called at the Palace to take leave. Sat some little time 
 with the ambassador, and was much pleased with his conver- 
 sation. There was a fine tone of manly patriotism running 
 through his language ; it was deeply interesting to hear 
 him speak of the character of statesmen and of party spirit. 
 Suddenly he interrupted himself with "I am taking up 
 your time ; something you said touched a chord that induced 
 me to speak thus." He was writing letters for me to take 
 with me, and spoke very kindly of my services and efforts to 
 
 be useful. Lady made many kind inquiries about 
 
 my arrangements, and sent some little things by me to Mr 
 
 Layard In all quarters I received marks of friendly 
 
 attention. Just as the steamer was under way, the piece of 
 painted canvas promised me by Lieutenant Eoberts, of H.M.S. 
 Porcupine, was thrown on board. Sailed at a quarter to one. 
 The weather being cloudy, the Bosphorus did not appear in 
 its beauty ; it requires a sky to shew it off. I looked with 
 much interest at Therapia, not so much on account of the 
 beauty of its scenery, as from the fact that it was the resi- 
 dence of that noble family whose kindness has affected me 
 so much. About four we entered the Black Sea, which, from 
 its appearance, well deserved its name. 
 
 "April 7th, (Sunday.) Last night proposed holding a 
 service, which the captain gladly accepted. The weather 
 was rather rough, but I was enabled to go through, and 
 preached from the epistle of the day. 
 
 " April 8th. At 5 P.M. reached Samsoun, and landed a 
 
THE ENVOY. 343 
 
 little before sunset. The place was wet with rain. Had a 
 frugal meal, consisting of bread, apples and walnuts, and 
 some excellent coffee." 
 
 MOSUL AND THE NESTORIANS. 
 
 After leaving Constantinople, Mr Bowen did not keep as 
 regular a journal as he had done during his residence in 
 Palestine, so that we can only glean scanty details of this 
 part of his tour from the few letters that have been pre- 
 served. The following gives a brief sketch of the journey 
 to Mosul : 
 
 "DIARBEKIR, May 12th, 1850. 
 
 " . . . . We have had a very interesting though rapid 
 journey across A>i;i Minor to this place, where we have been 
 a short time. We spent two or three days in each of the 
 principal cities that we passed through. We left Samsoun 
 April llth, and on the 13th reached Amasia, a town of 
 about 20,000 inhabitants, where much silk is raised, the 
 nee once of Pontine and Armenian kings, the birth- 
 place of Mi: lui ; - 3. I; i -. very singularly situated in a deep 
 ravine witli ovi precipices, in which were sculptured 
 
 or hewn out some very curious tombs. 
 
 "At Amasia we did not meet with anything interesting in 
 a missionary point of view, and failed in attempting to dis- 
 cover any opening for to the people. We visited 
 the Armenian church, but the priests seemed shy. As their 
 language was Turkish, I was of course dumb. From 
 Amasia we passed in two days to Tokat, having in the 
 intervening night occupied the travellers' room at a small 
 village. One end of the place was appropriated to us ; the 
 
344 THE ENVOY. 
 
 other to our horses, and sundry mules, donkeys, and buffaloes, 
 belonging to one of the villagers. The wet, cold night made 
 us enjoy our quarters very much. 
 
 " Tokat is in a fine valley, with many gardens round, and 
 is watered by a fine stream. The rocks rise perpendicularly 
 on one side, in a manner truly picturesque. We were received 
 into the house of a Hungarian, manager of the copper- works 
 for the Sultan, who is in the habit of entertaining Europeans 
 very hospitably. After some difficulty we found the grave 
 of Henry Martyn. Our guide, one of the new Armenian 
 Protestants, thought the tombstone had been removed, and 
 shewed us the place which, according to his belief, it had 
 once occupied. I was taking some pains to have a correct 
 memorial of the spot, with the view of having some mark 
 set there again, when a priest coming up inquired what we 
 were about, and shewed us the stone a short distance from 
 where we had searched for it. Our guide still thought it 
 had been moved ; but my conviction, after making inquiry, 
 is opposed to this impression, the more so as I can imagine 
 no reason for the sacrilege.* Staying a day at Tokat, we set 
 off for Sivas, which we reached in two days. We changed 
 horses every eight or twelve hours, and so proceeded with 
 tolerable speed. Sivas stands on a high table -land, and the 
 surrounding mountains were streaked with snow, the climate 
 being more severe than that of Pembrokeshire. This town 
 contains about 20,000 or 30,000 people, many of whom are 
 
 * It is a singular fact, that Henry Martyn and St Chrysostom both died 
 in the same place, under very similar circumstances. Conybeare and 
 Howson's " Life and Epistles of St Paul," first edition, vol. i., p. 265; and 
 " Life of Henry Martyn." 
 
THE ENVOY. 345 
 
 Armenians. It is the dirtiest place I ever saw ; our horses 
 sunk above their knees in the filthiest mud. Here we lodged 
 in the house of a respectable Armenian, who has joined the 
 American missionaries, and who was very happy to receive 
 us. There were several individuals at Sivas who wished to 
 search the Word of God, but they had much to encounter in 
 the way of persecution from their bishops. We paid the 
 Pacha a visit here, thinking we might get an opportunity of 
 speaking a few words in favour of the Protestants, and thus 
 interest him in their behalf so far as to prevent their perse- 
 cution by the other Armenians. He was very polite, invited 
 us to dinner, and paid great attention to the account of the 
 distinction between the Protestants and the Eastern and 
 Roman churches, who resemble each other in many respects. 
 My companion had an opportunity of uttering many Chris- 
 tian truths, and the Pacha and an officer of the army were 
 very glad to take copies of the New Testament. 
 
 " We stayed four days at Sivas ; and having slight symp- 
 toms of intermittent fever, I gave up a design of going round 
 by Haissaria, one of the old Csesareas, near Mount Erdgish, 
 and proceeded for Diarbekir. Once on horseback, I was soon 
 well again. 
 
 " Our first day's ride led us to Delikli Tash, a high moun- 
 tain pass. We slept at the village, which has still large 
 mounds of show lying against the houses. It was the 23d 
 of April ; the atmosphere very fine ; yellow crocuses, and a 
 very pretty kind of blue flower,* growing close by the 
 gently-melting ridges of snow. Here we passed the ridge 
 of high land that separates the waters of the Black Sea 
 
 * Probably a gentian. 
 
346 THE ENVOY. 
 
 from those of the Euphrates and Indian Ocean. In three 
 days we reached the Euphrates, after a hard ride through 
 some fine country, as usual thinly inhabited. Approaching 
 the great river by the road of Keban Maaden, for Kharput, 
 we had a very fine view of it, at many miles' distance, as it 
 wound through a plain or wide valley, surrounded by snow- 
 streaked hills. We had a long ride this day of about sixteen 
 hours over sixty miles of country. An accident occurred as 
 we approached the river. After riding through a rather 
 level track, we began to descend. The sun had now set, and 
 the moon was obscured with rain-clouds. We had reached 
 a rocky, rough decline, the road lying along the side of a 
 ravine, when one of our baggage horses, running against 
 the other in the narrow track, fell over and was killed. We 
 found a way to descend, loaded the surviving horse with the 
 baggage, which, with the exception of some tin pans for our 
 kitchen, was not injured, made our way along the dry tor- 
 rent bed at the bottom of the valley, and so reached the 
 Euphrates, which was here a wide stream between steep, 
 rocky hills, running with the rapidity of a mountain stream. 
 We took up our quarters in a khan on the banks, and next 
 morning crossed, horses and all, in a primitive kind of 
 ferry-boat. On the opposite side we found Keban Maaden, 
 famous for its silver mines, belonging to the Sultan. The 
 scenery here was very pretty, and we found more signs of 
 spring than had hitherto greeted us. We did not stay, but 
 hastened on to Kharput, which we reached about four o'clock. 
 This is an old town, situated on the borders of Kurdistan, 
 on the summit of a steep hill, overlooking a rich plain, the 
 best cultivated and most populous of any we had seen on our 
 
THE ENVOY". 347 
 
 journey. A considerable number of villages were scattered 
 over it, and many young mulberry trees about them, which 
 were putting forth their first shoots. We stopped in a 
 valley called Miseri, near Kharput, which is the Pacha's 
 residence. We found there the first Syrian church we had 
 met with. There were several in the place who could speak 
 Arabic, and I was glad to find thsft those of Bagdad could 
 understand me a little. We stayed here two days. My 
 companion saw something of the Polish or Hungarian re- 
 fugees. Komanists as they were, they readily made a slight 
 profession of Mohammedanism at one time for the sake of a 
 position in the Turkish army. This step they now seemed 
 to regret, and are to be more pitied perhaps than blamed. 
 
 " 30th April. We left Kharput, and passing another fine 
 plain, with many Armenian and Turkish villages, again ar- 
 rived at hills and yet unmelted snows. Passed a fine salt 
 lake, and a small stream, which was the first branch of the 
 Tigris. We stopped for the night at a khan, amongst a 
 party of Turkish muleteers ; and next day, passing through 
 some fine mountain country, came in sight of a large plain, 
 the commencement of the plains of Mesopotamia. We also 
 passed some copper mines at Argana Maaden. The people 
 on the plain were chiefly Kurds, nomads. We spent one 
 night with a Kurdish family in a ruined khan, and next day 
 reached Diarbekir. I must now close my attempts at descrip- 
 tion, and must content myself with merely saying that we 
 found at Diarbekir an active spirit of inquiry aroused among 
 some of the native Christians, especially the Syrians and 
 Jacobites, and encountered a demand for Bibles that we 
 could not supply. We stayed at Diarbekir ten days, and 
 
348 THE ENVOY. 
 
 then proceeded down the river on a raft composed of inflated 
 skins tied together, such as was used in the time of the 
 Assyrians. We reached Mosul on the seventh day. Our 
 voyage was not devoid of incident, and we were much de- 
 lighted with the scenery, the rapid stream, the perpendicular 
 rocks, the dwellings cut in the sides of the precipices, and 
 the curious staircase and galleries which we saw in some 
 places. We stopped once at a village of Kurdish Christians, 
 of Syrian origin ; they were very ignorant and superstitious. 
 " We were received at Mosul into the consul's house, Mr 
 Eassam, whose brother we met at Oxford. I met Mr Layard 
 yesterday ; he is full of enthusiasm about his discoveries in 
 the excavation, which are more curious and interesting than 
 ever. I have not been across the river to any of these places 
 yet, but may go this afternoon. My own investigations are 
 often the ruins of fallen churches ; but there seems to be a 
 stirring amongst the dry bones here too. I have taken a 
 house for a month. I hope all things are going on well with 
 you. Did I not find so much occupation in moving about, I 
 should often turn a longing thought towards home ; at pre- 
 sent I seem to have my work here 
 
 "JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 Mr Bowen immediately commenced his inquiry into the 
 state of religion at Mosul, and soon made acquaintance with 
 those natives who desired to know the truth. After little 
 more than a month spent in this manner, he proceeded on 
 his way into the Kurdish mountains to make still further 
 inquiries into the condition of the Nestorian churches. The 
 entire series of letters giving an account of the commence- 
 
THE ENVOY. 349 
 
 ment of his wanderings in these parts is not complete. The 
 following is the first of those that have been preserved : 
 
 TO HIS SISTERS. 
 
 "MERER, NEAR LAKE VAN, July 28, 1850. 
 
 "MY DEAR GIRLS, As I am enjoying a day of quiet and rest 
 in a place of peculiar beauty, I shall endeavour to make use 
 of half-an-hour to write you somewhat more of a traveller's 
 letter than I have usually done, and, by a few details, to give 
 you some idea of the kind of life I am now leading. My mis- 
 sionary character is at present in abeyance, though I trust I 
 am still gaining information of a useful kind. I spent a week 
 at Erzeroum, and though I had an apartment in an Armenian 
 house, I lived, I may say, at the consul's, Mr Brant, the only 
 English family there. The time was pleasantly passed, and, 
 I trust, profitably. I held a service on the Sunday, and the 
 sacrament was administered by request, which I much en- 
 joyed, as it was the only opportunity of the kind which I have 
 had for some time. On Monday I baptized Mr Brant's son. 
 The two sacraments had not been administered there by a 
 clergyman of the Church of England since Dr Wolff's visit. 
 I left Erzeroum the next day, July 1 3th, and have since been 
 travelling without stopping, except on Sundays. When I 
 say without stopping, you must, at the same time, understand 
 that we make a nightly halt and pitch our tent. I have with 
 me a Chaldean servant, who speaks Arabic, Turkish, and 
 Kurdish, a Moslem boy, and a Turkish Catherine, i.e., muleteer. 
 I have two horses of my own, and one of Mr Layard's, and 
 two baggage horses, one of which the Turk rides ; he is a 
 
350 THE ENVOY. 
 
 stout, good-humoured man. My only, or almost my only 
 communication is with the two Arabs or Moslems. We 
 travel at the rate of about three and a half miles per hour. 
 My bedding consists of a thick quilted coverlet, which serves 
 when doubled for a mattress, a blanket, sheet, and pillow, 
 and my old Scotch plaid for a coverlet. All these are packed 
 in a goafs-hair bag, wrapped in a piece of black painted 
 canvas, given me by Lieutenant Roberts at Constantinople. 
 
 " We left Erzeroum in the afternoon, and ascended the 
 mountain to the south of the town, and in two and a half 
 hours were among masses of snow lying in the hollows of the 
 hills. A half-an-hour more we had encamped a little above 
 one of those masses, through which a fine stream was rush- 
 ing. The snow had sensibly diminished since I had passed 
 eight days before. We pitched our tent on the thick grass, 
 which was already damp. Many flowers were growing round. 
 The horses were turned loose to graze, their feet fastened to- 
 gether with a small chain. With a little trouble we found 
 some materials for making a fire ; and getting a cup of coffee, 
 with some cold tongue kindly given me by Mrs Brant, I 
 settled comfortably for the night. The people, as usual, slept 
 upon the ground outside the tent, upon thick pieces of felt, 
 covered with their cloaks and rugs. I rose in the morning at 
 daylight, or soon after. The clouds were driving all round us, 
 everything was dripping wet; the people would not stir; they 
 could do nothing in the cold, which was pretty severe for 
 July ; and we were on the western slope of the hill, so that it 
 was long before the sun shone on us. This sunshine was 
 necessary; it appeared to give the people from the hot plains 
 of Mosul a little life. At last we started without waiting 
 
THE ENVOY. 351 
 
 for the tent to dry, and in about an hour climbed the 
 mountain pass, descending soon afterwards into a warmer 
 atmosphere. After six hours we halted near a fine stream, 
 which we had just forded, and opposite a village, to get some- 
 thing to eat and to let the horses graze. The people had 
 deserted their homes, and were gone up the hills to live in 
 tents for the summer. The pasture all round us was very 
 fine. Neither people nor cattle were to be seen, except at 
 long intervals, and perhaps a caravan of from twenty to 
 thirty mules would halt to allow the animals the full advan- 
 tage of their journey through the grass country, which extends 
 from Lake Van to Erzeroum. Near the lake there are more 
 villages, and consequently not so much grass for strangers ; 
 but, with one exception, I have paid nothing hitherto for 
 forage. Many of the grasses cultivated in England abound 
 here ; the cinque-foil and various kinds of vetches are par- 
 ticularly fine. In the evening we halted near a stream which 
 was almost dry, and, lighting a fire, prepared supper, while 
 the horses fared much better than they had done the night 
 before. Next day we passed the Aras or Arases, (some think 
 it the Pison,) and halted, after five hours, about twenty mi- 
 nutes' ride from a village, from which we procured ' yaourt/ 
 i.e., milk slightly curdled, very popular in this place, and 
 very good bread and cheese. No fowls could be had, but 
 having a gun with me, I shot two young geese, so we were 
 well off. Next day we travelled six hours, and halted near 
 a village called Keolu, and so I may say we proceeded. The 
 first Sunday I spent on the banks of a branch of the Eu- 
 phrates, and on the edge of a marshy flat, where was fine 
 pasture, but the flies and mosquitoes very troublesome. This 
 
352 THE ENVOY. 
 
 was near Kara Ischobac, a large Armenian village. Two days 
 after I forded the Euphrates, or Murad Ischai, about one 
 hundred yards wide, and two and a-half to three feet deep, 
 and encamped on the opposite side. Thence we passed 
 through Melazghird, a nearly ruined town. I met here a 
 number of Armenians from the Russian territories going on 
 pilgrimage ; they wore the black fur cap that marks the 
 Russian and the Circassian in this place, and were armed 
 more like warriors than pilgrims. 
 
 "From Melazghird we travelled over a very volcanic 
 country towards Sipan Dagh, an extinct volcano, about ten 
 thousand feet high, on the summit of which the snow still 
 remained. We encamped this day late, at about six, near 
 a village, with a swamp on one side, good pasture and water 
 at hand, and the mountain at our backs. Just as I was 
 going to bed, there was an alarm that the horses were gone. 
 They had been feeding near ; the muleteer, after eating, had 
 gone to secure them, when he called and said he could not 
 find them, though he had seen them only a few minutes be- 
 fore. I went in pursuit in one direction, the servant and 
 Turk in another. I wandered alone for some time towards 
 the snowy summit by moonlight, found one of the wanderers, 
 and so expected to fall in with the others. As I followed a 
 path, I thought again and again that I saw them, mistaking 
 jutting rocks or pieces of grass on the side of the hill for 
 horses. The mosquitoes chased me a long way, until, as I 
 got up pretty high, a cold blast from the snow discomfited 
 them. I returned about eleven, and the servant about 
 twelve. No tidings of the horses, except the one I had 
 brought. It was rather an uncomfortable thought, to be 
 
THE ENVOY. 353 
 
 there in the tent, the baggage in the field, and no horses to 
 move next day. Had the Kurds got hold of them ? these 
 people were all about. I procured a Kurd from the village. 
 He and my Chaldean servant, both mounted, set off about 
 3 A.M., and in the morning at seven brought the horses in, 
 to my great relief. This is a specimen of what one may 
 expect, though it is of rare occurrence, having happened to 
 me only once before. But I must pass on quickly. Last 
 night we arrived here, having rounded an arm of the lake 
 which runs to the north-east, and is not given except in the 
 best and newest maps. 
 
 " In this place we established ourselves for the day. On 
 Sunday mornings I always feel most thankful for the day of 
 rest, much as I used to do in Canada. It is not the rest of 
 the body only it is also a day of home associations ; and 
 when I go through the service alone, it is a great pleasure to 
 reflect on the many that at the same hour are reading and 
 meditating on the same words. My tent is near the church, 
 a curious little cruciform sanctuary attached to a rough square 
 building. After reading for a time I went to it. The service 
 had been finished ; I had heard the chanting and singing. 
 Near the door was blood on the rock. This was where a 
 sheep had been killed as an offering, a common custom 
 among them on different occasions ; on the present occasion, 
 the arrival of some friends from a distance. The sanctuary, 
 I was told, contained a tomb of the Virgin Mary, in which 
 was one of her bones. The people here have a custom of 
 assembling on a certain feast, and sacrificing a great number 
 of sheep. 
 
 " Leaving Merek, the next day I arrived at Van, a singular 
 
354 THE ENVOY. 
 
 city. Entering it the day after, I met Mr Layard and his 
 party, and the Hon. Mr Walpole. Three of these were 
 very unwell, suffering from low fever.* They said they 
 quite envied me the good health which, I am thankful to 
 say, I have enjoyed. 
 
 "Leaving Van, I proceeded to Bash-Kala, a curious Kurdish 
 castle, now in the hands of the Turks. Here I met with a 
 very hospitable pacha, who sent me every day (i.e., Saturday 
 night and Sunday) my breakfast at eleven, and dinner in 
 the evening, in true oriental style a long tray, with many 
 small dishes. The pacha at Van, too, was very hospitable. 
 There I stayed with a German doctor. From Bash-Kala I 
 passed the Persian frontier, and, entering the fine plain of 
 Zelmos, I visited a deposed patriarch of the Chaldean Church, 
 an intelligent old man, and the next day reached Urumia, 
 where I spent a very pleasant time with the American mis- 
 sionaries. I now write from Tabreez, which I leave to-day 
 to return to Urumia, then, God permitting, I shall go through 
 
 the Nestorian mountains to Mosul I have learned very 
 
 much, if I can only apply my knowledge, and am con- 
 vinced that there is in these countries a wide field for mis- 
 sionary enterprise JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 It was during this journey that Mr Bo wen engaged as a 
 servant Mahmoud, the little boy of whom he wrote an ac- 
 count in the Juvenile Instructor for September 1852; and 
 it was when at Tabreez that Mahmoud purchased the pair of 
 
 In Mr Walpole's book he says : " Mr B. nursed me with a mother's 
 attention, and to him, under God, I owe that my bones are not resting by 
 the borders of that lake." J/te Ansayrii, &c., p. 89. 
 
THE ENVOY. 355 
 
 pistols which proved so serviceable on their way from thence 
 to Urumia. They had been attacked by four Kurds ; the 
 other servants were so alarmed that they fled, leaving Mah- 
 moud and his master to defend themselves. The courageous 
 little fellow remained firm, presenting his pistol at the rob- 
 bers, and ordering them, in a stern, decided tone, to go away. 
 The fearless bearing of master and man had its effect on the 
 Kurds, who, after menacing them with their long daggers, 
 left them, either convinced that they could defend themselves 
 with fire-arms, or believing that they had friends near, or 
 rather constrained to depart by the angel of the Lord. Like 
 all who came into contact with him, Mahmoud was evidently 
 much attached to his master ; yet so troublesome did he even- 
 tually prove that Mr Bowen was reluctantly forced to part 
 from him, though he would have borne long with him on 
 account of his service on that memorable night. One of 
 Mahmoud's great faults was his utter disregard of truth. 
 His defence in reply to expostulation was singular. "What 
 can I do ? all men tell lies but the English." His kind mas- 
 ter did not leave the country without making some attempt 
 to provide for him, and he intrusted a sum of money to the 
 hands of a missionary, to be applied to Mahmoud's use as 
 occasion required, and to see that he was taught to read, and 
 thus given an opportunity of learning better thin. 
 
 Mr Bowen much enjoyed the intercourse he had with tlie 
 American at Uruinia. He thought very highly 
 
 of them and of their work, ajid made several excursions 
 with them into the Kurdish mountains, visiting the Nes- 
 torian churches in those parts. The only record that he 
 kept of these expeditions was in a small pocket-book in 
 
356 THE ENVOY. 
 
 pencil, so that it is not possible to give much account of 
 them. We can gather from these little notes that he sur- 
 mounted many difficulties, met with the usual adventures 
 of a traveller in such unfrequented parts, and saw much to 
 interest him deeply, both in the wild and beautiful scenery, 
 and in the people. * Amongst other places, he visited 
 Julamerk and Cochanes, the residence of Mar Shamoon, the 
 patriarch of the Nestorian Church, of whom he gives the 
 following account : 
 
 "August 17th. I went down after breakfast to visit Mar 
 Shamoon in his room with Captain K . He is a mild- 
 looking old man. After a few general remarks, in the course 
 of which I spoke of the interest that many in England took 
 in the welfare of the Nestorians, he said he wanted to speak 
 to me of some things. He first complained of the oppression 
 of the Turks, who levied a heavy tax on himself and the 
 people, much greater than they used to pay under the 
 Kurdish rule ; then of the small pension of three hundred 
 piastres having been stopped by the Governor of Julamerk ; 
 and afterwards of the Americans who were working among 
 his people. With reference to these he seemed quite per- 
 plexed. He said that if the English Church approved, he 
 would allow their proceedings ; but if not, he should, as 
 heretofore, oppose them. I felt that this was an important 
 question, and difficult to answer. I could but decline to 
 speak in the name of the English ChurcL Expressing my 
 
 * An interesting and minute account of this journey is given in a work 
 published by Mr Sandrecski, Mr Bowen's companion, entitled, "Reise nach 
 Mosul, und durch Kurdistan nach Uruinia." 
 
THE EXVOY. 357 
 
 regret at the fact, I reminded the old man of the different 
 opinions prevailing in that Church ; how that there were 
 many who loved the truth of the Gospel more than Church 
 order, while others were diametrically opposite in their views. 
 I informed him that the Americans had not the discipline 
 that we approved of, but that they had the great principles 
 of the gospel. I assured him that I was glad to find that 
 they had not interfered with the church government of the 
 Xestorians, and that so long as they did not do this, it would 
 be well if he could make an agreement with them. He com- 
 plained of their having no sacraments nor liturgy, and that 
 the effect of their teaching was to make the people disregard 
 their Church. I felt much pity for the poor old man." 
 
 A few days after this Mr Bowen visited the tomb of Sheik 
 Adi, the sacred place of the Yezidees, already well known 
 from the accounts given by Air Layard and Mr Badger. 
 
 "August 2oth. We started early, and, after winding 
 through a narrow valley for two hours, came suddenly in 
 sight of two striking spires of that peculiar form which I 
 already knew to be characteristic of the Yezidee architecture. 
 We thought we must now be approaching the sacred pre- 
 cincts of that ancient and most mysterious superstition. 
 What we saw turned out to be the Sheik Adi itself. We 
 rode on under the trees, and saw many square stone build- 
 ings, giving the appearance of a large village. We : 
 on, and stopped by a square cistern, into which flowed two 
 small fountains of delicious water, proceeding from a large 
 reservoir within a small building. We turned round to the 
 
358 THE ENVOY. 
 
 right, and entered, under a small archway, a singularly paved 
 court, formed by a number of small arches or cells on each 
 side. At the end opposite the entrance was a door, and an 
 archway leading to an inner court. We were met by a man 
 in black, who seemed willing that we should enter, and held 
 our horses. At the inner archway two elderly women in 
 white appeared, wearing a peculiar white turban, the cloth 
 of which descended behind ; the dress was dignified. One 
 of these ladies had a pious air, so that she might well pass 
 for the priestess of the shrine. The people were Kurds in 
 language and nature. We went into the main enclosure, 
 where we saw some fine old mulberry trees and a few vines, 
 supported by trellis work, and covering a large space of the 
 court. On the side of the entrance were some very comfort- 
 able rooms for the use of personages of importance ; on the 
 opposite side was the tomb of Sheik Adi, marked by one of 
 the cones or spires ; the adjoining one, they told us, was that 
 of Mar Zehanna. We were shewn into the sanctuary, a 
 long building, tolerably clean, with a few cisterns of clear 
 water, ar row of square pillars of mason-work, with curtains 
 
 and an altar They have prayer only at certain seasons. 
 
 After some conversation with an intelligent man who spoke 
 Arabic, and having been hospitably entertained, we departed 
 at 9 P.M., and rode to Khorsabad in the dark." 
 
 On returning to Mosul, Mr Bowen resumed his intercourse 
 with the people, particularly Kas Michael, who appears to 
 have been much in earnest for the general good.* He also 
 visited the natives, and sought every opportunity to awaken 
 
 * A letter of his is inserted further on. 
 
THE ENVOY. 359 
 
 in them a desire for the truth, and endeavoured to prove 
 that though the American missionaries were wanting in 
 church discipline and order, still God's truth was with them. 
 He appears to have had frequent conversations on this sub- 
 ject with Bishop Behnam, the Jacobite, who complained 
 much of the Americans, saying, the English Church was 
 good, had a liturgy and order ; the Americans were not 
 Christians, for they had no clergy. Another time the 
 Bishop said, if the people wanted preaching, they might 
 come to him. He had not excommunicated the men who 
 went to hear Mr Marsh, (the American missionary at Mosul,) 
 on account of the consul's request. " Why did they not 
 go," he continued, "to the Mussulmans, and Yezidees or 
 heathen ? we are Christians here, and have the gospel." He 
 was answered " But you have need of preachers here ; no 
 one preaches except your bishops, and the people have need 
 of more teachers. Besides, had you any teachers here before 
 the missionaries came?" The Bishop replied, he did not 
 want them ; the inquirers were bad men. He would not say 
 what their faults were ; but he would tell his people they 
 went against the Word of God in exciting a division in 
 the Church. This conversation took place at Mr Rassam's, 
 the consul's ; and the Bishop left without it being settled 
 whether the people were to be excommunicated or not. 
 Michael afterwards told Mr Bowen that the Protestant 
 movement had first arisen at Mosul in consequence of one 
 of the bishops having preached against the intercession of 
 saints and prayer to images. Bishop Behnam said at one 
 time, that if the Bishop of London would send him a letter 
 to prove that Dissenters could be Christians, he would receive 
 
360 THE ENVOY. 
 
 them as such. It does seem a pity that no episcopal church 
 has undertaken a mission to these people, whose ecclesiastic 
 economy and discipline might be maintained in connexion 
 with a purer faith. 
 
 While continuing his work amongst the people of Mosul, 
 and holding service there for the benefit of the English, Mr 
 Bowen made excursions to different places round, endeavour- 
 ing, wherever he went, to make known to the people the 
 Word of God, and preaching peace by Jesus Christ, ever 
 able to part in friendship from those whom he had tried to 
 convince. On one occasion he visited Beth Shan and Beth 
 Shieke, considerable villages about four hours from Mosul. 
 The houses seemed large and well-built, and many of the 
 wealthier inhabitants of Mosul resided there in the summer. 
 Of this place he writes as follows : 
 
 " The house where I stopped belongs to two Yezidee 
 women, widows of one man. Each has children; between 
 them, there are seven. They appeared to live together in 
 great harmony. They are pretty well off, and have not 
 married again, for the sake of their children. The little 
 girls were active and well-spoken ; the boys not so prepos- 
 sessing. One of the women was anxious about her son's 
 health ; and in the evening, after dinner, when they came to 
 sit down with me, she spoke of praying to God that her son 
 might become a good man, acknowledging the Divine hand 
 in all things, as the Yezidees constantly do. I spoke to one 
 man, a Yezidee, of their children, and that they should learn 
 to read. He replied, doggedly, ' It is not our custom.' The 
 
THE ENVOY. 361 
 
 Christians have no school here, because the priest contends 
 that his salary is too small. 
 
 "September 2oth. Left Beth Shieke this morning at half- 
 past seven, after a breakfast provided by our civil hostess. 
 They spoke with affection of Mr Badger. We rode across 
 the arid plain. The people were busy ploughing ; but their 
 plough is very poor, merely disturbing the ground, without 
 rooting up the weeds. Whoever introduces a new system of 
 agriculture in this place will be a public benefactor. Double 
 the quantity of grain might be raised by better cultivation, 
 and labour be simplified and improved by the use of better 
 implements. Keached Mosul before noon. My heart has 
 been much cast down by this little tour ; the people are in 
 great darkness, and are willing to remain so. The Yezidees 
 are a numerous race, for whom no spiritual effort has yet 
 been made. I am doubtful whether I ought not to spend 
 some months here, and try to make an impression on these 
 poor people." 
 
 Soon after this little excursion, Mr Bowen prepared to 
 leave Mosul for Bagdad. Before starting, he wrote some of 
 his impressions on the country to the Eev. A. Cheap : 
 
 MOSUL, October Wth, 1850. 
 
 " .... It was with intense interest I looked, for the first 
 time, upon the plains of Mesopotamia, extending like the 
 sea from the foot of the Kurdistan mountains. And with 
 no less interest did I walk, for the first time, amongst the 
 now unburied walls and records of Nineveh. The nature of 
 
362 THE ENVOY. 
 
 Mr Layard's discoveries here is, I presume, known to you. 
 The numerous representations of battles and sieges on the 
 bas-reliefs that cover the walls, are in striking harmony 
 with the proud boast ascribed to the Assyrian monarch, 
 (Isaiah x. ;) and the ages that these ruins have been con- 
 cealed, and their being now at length brought to light, seem 
 to be a remarkable fulfilment of the passage, ' Thou shalt be 
 hid,' (Nahum iii. 1 1.) 
 
 " From Mosul I traversed a part of Kurdistan to Erzeroum, 
 once the capital of Armenia ; thence to Van, Tabreez, Urumia 
 in Persia, (this part is probably the ancient Media ;) and 
 thence returned to this place. I have passed securely, and 
 without any guard, places that only a few years ago were 
 impervious to the Frank traveller, and have been able to 
 take a superficial view of the condition of several sects of 
 Christians and Mussulmans. 
 
 " Everywhere we meet with the same features. The pro- 
 fessing Christian is degraded in ignorance, superstition, and 
 false doctrine. He has been for many years oppressed, but 
 has now received some relaxation of the tyranny, though 
 still there are cases in which the local governors exercise an 
 injustice that would make the hottest Chartist thankful for 
 the British constitution. The Nestorians, though much 
 purer in faith than the Jacobite or Popish sects, are, never- 
 theless, ignorant of the gospel. Many of them have lately 
 received much light by the aid of the American missionaries 
 stationed at Urumia. I have not seen any reason to adopt 
 Dr Grant's theory, that the Nestorians are the lost tribes ; 
 but they may have some Israelitish blood. There are Jews 
 in Kurdistan who speak the Nestorian or Syriac language, 
 
THE ENVOY. 363 
 
 which, like the old Syriac, of which it is a dialect, has a close 
 affinity to the Hebrew. The Christians here, as in other 
 parts of the East, are desirous of elevating their condition. 
 They feel the want of schools and an educated priesthood ; 
 but nearly all of them are poor, and destitute of means, as 
 well as of information how to compass the object they have 
 at heart. The higher orders of the priesthood are opposed 
 to their people doing anything in this way, fearing that if 
 they commence any expensive work, they may be sparing of 
 their tribute and tithe, and ultimately learn to think lightly 
 of them, as they see rising up by their side a more intelligent 
 and better .educated cl, 
 
 " I am more and more convinced that there is here a wide 
 field for Christian benevolence. The Americans are about 
 to take it up ; they will have, however, many difficulties to 
 contend with among a people who are strongly prejudiced in 
 favour of Episcopacy. The Mussulmans are just as igno- 
 rant, and more proud than the Christians ; they thank God 
 that they are Moslems. Christianity here, too, is fallen, 
 and become nearly as degraded as Mohammedan ism. while 
 indifference and infidelity are conspicuous amongst its fol- 
 lowers. The toleration now granted by both the Persian 
 and Turkish Governments will lead to an open door for 
 preaching to the Mussulmans. 
 
 " The spiritual darkness of these countries is well illustrated 
 by their civil condition. The people are inferior, in the ordi- 
 nary arts of life, to the old Assyrians. Bread is abundant, 
 and surprisingly cheap, but the masses are miserably poor. 
 The once fertile plains of Mesopotamia are little better than 
 a desert, and are occupied by the wandering Arabs. The 
 
364 THE ENVOY. 
 
 Bedouins extend their plundering expeditions almost up to 
 the walls of Mosul, and the frequent robbing of the cara- 
 vans tends to impoverish trade. Here we can appreciate the 
 allusions of the Psalmist to ' the violent man/ ' the wicked/ 
 and 'the oppressor.' They do indeed oppress the poor. 
 There may exist instances of Arab generosity, but a poor 
 man, who has anything to lose, has as much reason to be 
 afraid as a rich man. In general, Franks are tolerably safe. 
 The gospel, if received in this land, would be a great cure, 
 even for its temporal evils. Were but a small portion of the 
 community true Christians, they would be able to exercise 
 a considerable influence over the others. The movement 
 amongst the Christians is tolerably strong at Diarbekir ; 
 there the people were very anxious to have a missionary 
 amongst them. ' Why don't the English send us teachers ?' 
 they said. It was hard not to be able to hold out to them 
 hopes of assistance. The books of the Church Missionary 
 Society, formerly published at Malta, have had much influ- 
 ence on the people here. The Scriptures issued by our 
 Bible Society have also been widely spread ; but the living 
 witness is wanting, especially amongst a people little accus- 
 tomed to reading and reflection. 
 
 " I sincerely hope and trust that the missionary zeal of 
 Knaresborough will not grow cold. How constantly, on the 
 Sabbath, does my heart wander back to you, as I think of 
 the employment and pleasures of that day, the schools and 
 congregation, the peals of bells ! If ever I am permitted to 
 visit you again, there will be some changes in the well- 
 known places of many of the worshippers. God grant I 
 may find you there ! Kemember me to and , &c. 
 
THE ENVOY. 365 
 
 The district-visitors are, I trust, encouraged in their work ; 
 I love to think of them as a little band of missionaries. 
 
 " Pray, assure my friends at Knaresborough that I do not 
 forget them. I trust very many of them do not forget me 
 in prayer JOHN BOWEN. 
 
 " P.S. With reference to one expression in my letter, 
 that the Mohammedans are as ignorant as the Christians, I 
 may explain that it is true that, with reference to some 
 truths, the Mohammedans are, of course, more ignorant, and 
 they believe some absurd fables, but so do the Christians. 
 The Mussulman has better ideas of spiritual worship than 
 many of the Christians ; and it is not uncommon to hear 
 Europeans remark, that Mohammedanism is better than the 
 Christianity of these lands, a remark which has some ap- 
 pearance of truth with regard to the lives of the people ; still, 
 it is only superficial" 
 
 Mr Bowen left Mosul on the 31st of October, and pro- 
 ceeded to Bagdad on a raft down the Tigris, with an Arab 
 crew, and other rafts in company. They floated along the 
 river in the day, and landed at night to bivouac on shore. 
 At these times, he would walk a short way into the country, 
 or watch his companions squatting on the ground, and amus- 
 ing themselves with dancing and firing their guns. How he 
 longed to tell them of the rich mercies of Christ Jesus ! But 
 it is no easy matter to speak of these things to the Moslem. 
 The thought, he says, often pained him, that in all that com- 
 pany he was the only one who had known and partaken of 
 the great mercy of God in Christ. 
 
366 THE ENVOY. 
 
 After six or seven days' travelling, an affray took place 
 with some Arabs on the shore, of which he gives a short 
 account : 
 
 " In the afternoon, we came in sight of a Bedor camp. 
 The drum in our camp was beaten. The Arzed and Jabor 
 sat ready, their guns upright in their hands, making a for- 
 midable array. The Bedor were in scattered groups of men, 
 women, and children. The few spears that were visible were 
 in the hands of children, and their points were inverted. 
 Some groups of wild-looking girls, in blue frocks, and very 
 wild-looking heads of hair, were not uninteresting. The 
 people on shore and those on the rafts called to each other ; 
 jokes and insults were exchanged. There was a herd of 
 camels drinking at a point. The two men on my raft threw 
 off their cloaks, and sat with their firelocks ready; but I 
 gave them a strict charge not to fire, nor to do anything 
 without orders from me. My kellish was in advance of all ; 
 it was small, and had very little luggage. The kellish of the 
 Turkish officers, which had been generally in advance, was 
 now behind among the crowd. A shot was fired from the 
 rear, and followed by a sharp fusilade. The women and 
 children ran shrieking up the bank ; the men retired, though 
 not very hastily. 
 
 " At first I thought the firing was a salute, but the whist- 
 ling of the balls and the direction of the guns shewed that it 
 was at the defenceless people. I would not allow my men 
 to discharge their pieces, which they were most anxious to 
 do, but urged them to wait till we were attacked before we 
 acted on the aggressive, reminding them of the cowardice of 
 
THE ENVOY. 367 
 
 firing on women and children. I saw one man in a small 
 kellish deliberately aim at a group of women near the camp ; 
 the ball glanced towards them on the water. They also fired 
 at the camels, and at a herd a considerable distance lower 
 down. Two or three men I remarked, who had been lying 
 down behind the hillock above the bank, ran along the brow 
 of the hill to drive the camels out of danger, in which they 
 eventually succeeded; these people were also fired at. I 
 expressed to several kellish that came near my abhorrence of 
 their cowardice, and spoke my mind very freely to the Turk- 
 ish officers. Several times the question was put to my men, 
 why they did not fire. ' Walla,' said one, ' the Bey won't let 
 us ; he is a strange man, and teaches us all day out of books.' 
 I had in the morning been reading to them some proverbs 
 on the law of Christ, ' Do to others,' &c. 
 
 " After descending further down, five or six men swam on 
 shore, and stole a camel from a small herd, and brought it off. 
 in triumph ; the boy who was with them was frightened, and 
 ran away. I had taken a short stroll on the bank near our 
 halting-place, and saw them bringing back their prize, and 
 afterwards quarrelling about the division of it, like a party 
 of wolves. 
 
 " One of the Bedors descended opposite our station, ami 
 calling across, wanted to know who we were, and why the 
 camel had been taken ? Some of the Arzeds answered, 'In- 
 stead of a man killed and goods plundered.' The Bedor pro- 
 tested against the injustice. The parley ended in violent 
 abuse. The Bedor declared they were the subjects of Abdul 
 Medjid. Poor fellows, if they could, they would perhaps 
 have robbed us. As it was, they were insulted, scorned, and 
 
368 THE ENVOY. 
 
 plundered in the name of the Government. What wonder 
 if they pillage in return ? Striking illustration again of Ish- 
 mael's lot, ' His hand against every man, and every man's 
 hand against him/ (Gen. xvi. 12.) 
 
 " At dark, an Arab, said to be a sheik of the tribe, called 
 to us. I wanted him to be told that there was an English- 
 man here, who would speak with him ; but it was against 
 the wish of the party, and I could not get any one to give the 
 message. These are indeed the dark places of the earth. 
 Can nothing be done to change the scene? I have some 
 thought of devoting myself to the work ; I would found a 
 city on the Tigris, and preach Christ." 
 
 In this manner they continued their voyage down the 
 river. The men on the rafts renewed their depredations on 
 the tribes on the shore, and Mr Bowen fearlessly protested 
 against such outrages, and astonished the men on his own 
 raft by reading to them the Sermon on the Mount. Their 
 only exclamation on hearing its precepts was, "We are 
 Arabs, we eat one another.' 7 
 
 In another note the Arab form of salutation is given. 
 Dervish, one of the men on his raft, had been unwell, and a 
 man on another kellish inquires after him, and salutes Kellar, 
 as follows : 
 
 Arab. " God send you a good evening, Kellar/' 
 
 Kellar. "May God bless your evening/' 
 
 Arab. " How is Dervish this evening ? " 
 
 Kellar. " I thank God he is better/' 
 
 A rob (to Dervish.) " God send you a good evening. How 
 are you to-night ? " 
 
THE ENVOY. 369 
 
 Dervish " God send you peace. I am as He pleases." 
 The constant manner in which the providence and presence 
 of God is acknowledged in the common talk of the Moham- 
 medan is very remarkable, and must inspire the desire that 
 they should know the true nature of the God they ignorantly 
 worship. 
 
 Bagdad was reached November the 12th, and Mr Bowen 
 immediately commenced making acquaintance with the native 
 Christians there, and inquiring into what openings there 
 might be for missionary work in that place ; but we have 
 little account of what he did, except from the following com- 
 munication : 
 
 BAGDAD AND THE JOURNEY WESTWARD. 
 
 TO THE REV. H. VENN. 
 
 " BAGDAD, January 15, 1851. 
 
 "MY DEAR MR VENN, I send a short letter to let you 
 know my movements, for I am sorry to say that I have little 
 else to report, unless I were to go into details of the forlorn 
 and fallen condition of this part of the Turkish empire. I 
 wrote to you at some length on the state of the Christians at 
 Mosul in the latter end of October. I left Mosul October 
 31, descending the Tigris on a raft made of skins, in com- 
 pany with several other rafts, and a guard of Arabs to pro- 
 tect us from the Bedouins supposed to be on the banks. Of 
 these we saw only one encampment On this our guard 
 made a very unjustifiable attack, against which I protested 
 to the Turkish colonel, who was with the military stores, 
 
 which were on the greater part of the rafts, and prevented 
 
 2 A 
 
370 THE ENVOY. 
 
 the two men of my raft from taking any part in the aggres- 
 sion. 
 
 "A few days after reaching this, I was attacked by a bilious 
 fever, which confined me for three weeks. Providentially I 
 was at the house of the East India Company's Eesideiit, 
 and had every comfort and attention. Since then I have 
 been at a house that I have hired, and chiefly engaged in the 
 study of the Arabic language. The Arabic spoken here is 
 better than the dialect of many places I have visited. I had 
 provided myself with a few Bibles, several New Testaments, 
 a small stock of the Malta publications of the Church Mis- 
 sionary Society, and also of the books of the American mis- 
 sionaries at Beyrout. Through Mr Hormuzd Rassam I 
 made the acquaintance of a few of the native Christians, to 
 whom I introduced these books. They chiefly desire secular 
 knowledge, being quite contented with the religion of the 
 Church of Rome. However, many children came to me, and 
 I gave away several smaller tracts ; amongst the rest, as a 
 child's book, 'Henry and his Bearer/ by Mrs Sherwood. 
 I have also distributed a few copies of the Scriptures, and 
 the 'Pilgrim's Progress/ and some other publications rather 
 larger than tracts. The ' Scripture Help' and Keith would 
 be greatly prized, or rather very useful, if they could be 
 had, I had only two copies of each. The Christians here 
 are nearly all Papists, being gained from the old oriental 
 sects. Amongst them are Chaldeans, and Syrian and Ar- 
 menian Catholics. There are a few Jacobite Armenians. I 
 have universally found that the Papal Christians are more 
 shy of Protestant clergymen than others. There is here a 
 Roman Catholic prelate styled the Archbishop of Babylon. 
 
THE ENVOY. 371 
 
 He is a Frenchman, and more feared than respected. I have 
 met him at the Kesident's ; he was very polite, but I have 
 not called on him. There is more wealth amongst the Chris- 
 tians here than at Mosul. They are generally merchants or 
 shopkeepers ; only a small number of the poorer class in pro- 
 portion. 
 
 " Having devoted much of my time to study, I have made 
 but few acquaintances, nor are the Mussulmans very acces- 
 sible. I am more than ever impressed with the difficulties 
 of a direct mission to them under the existing laws of a 
 Mohammedan country. The state of the law, I find, weighs 
 upon one's own mind, and checks that earnestness which one 
 ought to have in declaring the gospel On the one side, it 
 is felt, that if the man believes what is said to him, he acts 
 on it to the certain peril of his life ; on the other, the 
 teacher feels that the knowledge of the penalty sides with 
 his natural heart in checking his zeal in his Master's service. 
 But, notwithstanding this, I am more than ever impressed 
 with a conviction, that Mohammedanism is about to sustain 
 a grievous, if not a final blow. The system itself, with its 
 text-book, the Koran, contains elements of self-destruction ; 
 these must be brought into operation by the active influence 
 of the spread of civilisation from Christian countries. It is 
 most striking to witness the impoverished condition of the 
 two great Mohammedan powers, while the efforts at improve- 
 ment and political amelioration are all carried on in an infidel 
 spirit. There is, it is true, much fanaticism amongst the 
 ignorant, and also some of the learned, in this way, which is 
 but an accumulation of errors and delusions, but this will not 
 stand long, when the door shall be opened to fair and public 
 
372 THE ENVOY. 
 
 discussion ; at present no man dares express a doubt. They 
 see the power and intelligence of the Frank, and perhaps they 
 hate him ; but the sects and natives hate each other equally, 
 especially the Arabs, the Turks, and the Sonnite, the Sheen, 
 or Persian sect. It is curious to hear the natives of those 
 parts express their wish that the English would come and 
 take the country. An Arab sheik declared to me the other 
 day that there was a traditional prophecy decreeing this con- 
 quest to the Franks. 
 
 "Yesterday, I returned from an excursion to Babylon, 
 which occupied seven days, including one Sunday which I 
 spent at Hillah, and a tour on the Euphrates, which flows 
 right through Old Babylon; this region, however, has been 
 described often enough. One thing I may mention, that to 
 my mind there is abundant proof of the fulfilment of pro- 
 phecy, as well as of the former greatness of the city. The 
 desolation and barbarism of the country are very remarkable, 
 while few can fail to reflect on the terror-stricken state of 
 oppression in which the inhabitants live. The vitrified 
 masses of brick, like solid rock, in the Birs Nimroud, have 
 literally fulfilled the words of the Lord by Jeremiah, ' I will 
 make thee a burnt mountain.' Mr Layard is now carrying 
 on excavations in the mounds, but has not yet found much 
 except bricks and walls. 
 
 " Please God, I shall leave this next week by the first 
 caravan, as it is not quite safe to go in a small party. I 
 expect to stay a fortnight at Mosul, and then go to Aleppo, 
 where I hope to be by March 20th, and on by Damascus to 
 Jerusalem. 
 
THE ENVOY. 373 
 
 " May the blessing of our God attend you and your la- 
 bours. Yours very faithfully, JOHN Bo WEN/' 
 
 "January ]9th. Preached this day to five persons on 
 Rom. xii. 1 2 ; did not handle my subject very freely. I am 
 about to leave Bagdad, dissatisfied with my visit here as 
 regards myself. Have been studying too much, and neglected 
 visiting the natives. Have met with no native who seems 
 anxious about his soul. Have given away a good many small 
 books, and a few Bibles and Testaments. Most of them have 
 been sought chiefly for the sake of possessing them, but still 
 I trust they may be the means of good. Of how little use 
 are my wanderings ! I have met with favour and acceptance 
 and much kindness, but I find many obstacles in the way of 
 speaking truth." 
 
 Mr Bowen left Bagdad January 22d, having joined a 
 caravan to Mosul. The journey was tiresome, and the ac- 
 commodation for the nights so bad that he often preferred the 
 open air to the interior of the dirty khan. Sometimes he 
 was obliged to sleep so near the horses as to be awoke in the 
 night by a stroke from the animal's tail. On one occasion 
 he remarks, " Being outside, I was much amused by the 
 humours of the animals cats, dogs, sheep, chickens, horses, 
 donkeys, mules coming into contact with each other. A 
 man began to sell a kind of orange, and various groups 
 of children, with bright, smiling faces, came to purchase. 
 Children are the same all the world over. These poor little 
 Arabs shew more sprightliness and intelligence than many 
 
374 THE ENVOY. 
 
 in other lands, with infinitely greater advantages. The Arab 
 is in many respects like the Irishman, the untaught child 
 especially; but the adult, having a more limited sphere of 
 ideas than even a Connaught man, is in general intellec- 
 tually inferior." 
 
 Mr Bowen lost no opportunity of speaking a word for 
 God, or giving Mussulman and Christian to understand that 
 there was a written message to them from their heavenly 
 Father. In speaking to the former, however, much caution 
 is necessary, as an unguarded word may do great harm, and 
 expose the speaker to needless danger. Mosul was reached 
 February 8th, and some extracts can again be given from a 
 journal kept for the next few weeks. This will furnish the 
 best idea of his manner of living in this place, and of the 
 state of the countries through which he passed : 
 
 "February 8th, 1851, (Mosul.) Arrived here about four 
 o'clock P.M., after a muddy journey. As I rode to my old 
 quarters, several children in the streets cried out, " Mr 
 Bowen is come ! " and followed me to the house. I was 
 kindly received at Mr Rassam's. 
 
 " February 9th, (Sunday.) Had service in the morning. 
 Walked over to Mr Marsh's house) where a small party met 
 to study the Scriptures ; they seemed simple and earnest ; 
 one prayed in conclusion. They were much interested in 
 some anecdotes I told them of the Irish Society and mis- 
 sionary work in the South Sea. They welcomed me most 
 affectionately. The Bishop had been excommunicating several, 
 on account of their visiting Mr Marsh ; so many have with- 
 drawn their children from the school. 
 
THE ENVOY. 375 
 
 "February Wth. Moved into my old quarters in the 
 morning. Cass Michael came with me, and seemed very 
 glad to have me back again. A few seemed to look as if 
 they had expected me to bring them some present. 
 
 "February llth. Read in the morning with Cass Michael. 
 In the afternoon rode out to Kouyonjik, where sculptures are 
 still coming out, but in a broken state. Called the attention 
 of the overseer to the confirmation of Scripture in these 
 pictures a new procession of captive gods, a very long 
 river, some larger bas-reliefs, and a pair of skulls, apparently 
 human. Dined at Rassam's. Mr Marsh returned home. 
 He had found the people he had visited ready to converse 
 on religious subjects. 
 
 "February 12th. Several came to see me ; amongst others, 
 Mar Gelba. He seemed well acquainted with Scripture, and 
 had joined Mr Marsh's party, but had afterwards withdrawn 
 from dread of persecution. I dined at Mr Marsh's. Michael 
 was there in the evening ; thought that Bishop Beynam knew 
 the truth, but acted against it from the fear of man and from 
 wounded pride. 
 
 "February 14th. When I rode out to-day there were a 
 great many people in the open part of the city, as the feast 
 of Korah Elias, common to Moslems and Christians at Mosul, 
 was being celebrated. The commencement of the week was 
 signalised by the occurrence of three fast-days, also common, 
 instituted to commemorate the fast of Nineveh. 
 
 "February loth. Read with Cass Michael as usual. At 
 noon went with Mr Rassam, and visited one of the Mussul- 
 man libraries, attached to a mosque. They had but few 
 books, and those chiefly relating to their law and comment- 
 
376 THE ENVOY. 
 
 aries on the Koran, There was one curious work on mental 
 and moral philosophy. I spoke to some of the people on the 
 use and advantage of knowledge. 
 
 "February 16th, (Sunday.) Service at the Consul's in the 
 morning. At noon went to Mr Marsh's reading- class ; the 
 attendance and attention were very fair. Went afterwards 
 to Micha's, my late servant, who had just been married. A 
 picture, representing the Trinity, gave me occasion to speak 
 of the errors of Popery. 
 
 "February 22d, (Saturday.) During the week I have 
 been as much engaged as constant interruptions would per- 
 mit I have visited Bishop Beynam ; but as he was not alone, 
 I did not trouble him with my opinions on his excommuni- 
 cations. Kespect for his office, with a natural aversion to 
 unpleasant duties, restrains my tongue on this point. I 
 wanted to make him a small present, which he declined. 
 Most mornings I have read at Mr Marsh's with Cass 
 
 Michael One day I visited Cass B of the Papal 
 
 Church. Some priests were present, and a young Mussul- 
 man came in. Our conversation was general. The same 
 young man paid me a visit afterwards. I conversed with 
 him on the necessity of seeking for truth. Mollah Sultan, 
 who visited me this week, spoke of the depressed state of the 
 country, its diminishing population. I told him I thought 
 the institutions of the Koran bad for the people. He agreed 
 with me. This evening again visited Bishop Beynam ; spoke 
 to him of the Arabic Bible, and of the doctrines of the Jacob- 
 ite Church. It seems that they think that if we say there 
 are two natures in Christ, we must say there are two persons. 
 I felt convinced that the mistake on this point was one 
 
THE ENVOY. 377 
 
 of words rather than fact. The worship of the Virgin was a 
 more decided error, and some very poor attempts were made 
 to defend it. 
 
 "February 23d, (Sunday.) Communion service at Mr 
 Eassam's. Mr Marsh, Cass Michael, and other native Chris- 
 tians, joined us. They did not understand the words, but 
 their manner was very reverential. They had been excom- 
 municated by Bishop Beynam for visiting Mr Marsh. At 
 first I felt some doubts, but was afterwards quite satisfied, 
 and had much happiness in administering to those poor, per- 
 secuted Christians the pledges of a Saviour's love. Dined 
 at Mr Rassam's. Mollah Sultan and Mollah Yunis called 
 in the evening. They are both intelligent men. M. Yunis 
 knew something of mathematics. By giving these people 
 some idea of the power and knowledge of the Franks, we 
 may gradually incline them to listen to the evidence of 
 Christianity. Talked to them too much of secular know- 
 ledge, in the hope (by no means realised) of introducing 
 other things. 
 
 "February 2tk. This morning left Mosul. Felt rather 
 moved, having been much interested in the place, which 
 had been my head-quarters for some tfme, and where I had 
 received much kindness. Would have gladly stayed and 
 laboured there. Mr Marsh and Cass Michael came with 
 me to Tali Kaif, where I stayed the night. 
 
 " February 2oth. Rode to-day to Duliss. We took up our 
 abode for the night at the house of the Kakoi, a long narrow 
 building, with a sloping roof, a doorway, but no door, neither 
 chimney nor window. Two wives were in the house. Our host 
 came in the evening very drunk an event by no means un- 
 
378 THE ENVOY. 
 
 common among the Yezidees. One young man knew a little 
 Arabic. A Turkish letter was brought, but I could only tell 
 them the address and signature. They said they would take 
 it to Dirkook, six miles off, to get it read. I spoke to the 
 Yezidees about learning to read, but they seemed to have no 
 desire to part with their long-cherished ignorance. I asked 
 what became of a man when he died. They said he went 
 into the wilderness. I spoke to them of the judgment, but 
 my report was not believed. The very life of the Yezidee 
 religion consists in pernicious adherence to old customs. One 
 of my host's wives was unwell. I gave her a little medicine, 
 chiefly to get rid of their importunities, though I did not hope 
 to do her any good. They remembered my having bled a 
 man when I passed here before. 
 
 "February 26th. Set off early along a muddy road. Stop- 
 ped for the night at the house of a Kurd. Several houses in 
 this village are made to receive travellers. There was an entire 
 apartment, with a wide door, into which the horses entered 
 with their loads, which were taken off as they came in, and 
 they passed through a small door opposite, into a large inner 
 apartment, which was the stable. My host prayed aloud in 
 Arabic, o'f which he scarcely understood a word, and after- 
 wards repeated the Mohammedan formula : ' There is no 
 God but God/ &c., concluding by telling over a very long 
 string of beads. I reflected that perhaps this earnest devotee 
 had been a slayer of the Christians in the days of Beder Khan 
 Bey. 
 
 "February 27th. I started after sunrise, and ascended 
 the pass of the ridge between the plain of Tigris and the 
 Zaco. The road was bad and muddy in places, and had 
 
THE ENVOY. 379 
 
 not so fine an appearance as in summer. In three hours 
 reached Zaco. There are about two hundred houses of 
 Jews here. They dress in the gay costume of Kurds, but 
 are distinguished by their long locks of hair on the sides of 
 their faces, which are preserved according to law. Went to 
 the synagogue, which was pretty large. A good many chil- 
 dren learning to read ; several of them had English-printed 
 Bibles. There were a good many old books, but they did 
 not understand Hebrew. There was in the synagogue, or 
 rather on the outside, two Arabic inscriptions ; one setting 
 forth that the Kneeser Church had been rebuilt in the govern- 
 ment of AH Khan Bey, about sixty years ago ; another, of 
 which I could only make out a little, set forth that the Jews 
 in Zaco had increased, and that the church was small, and 
 implied that it had been enlarged. They did not know that 
 their Bibles came from England. I told them that some 
 kind friends in our country made these books for them, that 
 they might know their law and prophets, which now they 
 did not understand ; that we had another book which they 
 did not receive the gospel. One man said, ' How is it we 
 are scattered, and beaten, and persecuted ? ' I replied, ' Be- 
 cause they were disobedient, and Messias was come, and 
 they would not receive Him ; but they would be restored 
 to their own land when they believed/ They did not seem 
 to understand me very well. 
 
 " Several Affghan dervishes are here begging to-day ; they 
 say they are going to Mecca. I passed one on the road from 
 Bochara. 
 
 "February 28th. Started this morning at 6.20; and pass- 
 ing off the island on which the town is situated, ascended a 
 
380 THE ENVOY. 
 
 short distance to the other bridge, a fine structure with three 
 arches, the centre very lofty. Then descending, we took our 
 way along the course of the stream to the west. The hills 
 on the north side were covered with snow half-way down. 
 The river is called the Chebour, and falls into the Tigris, 
 eighteen or twenty miles from Zaco. It is a question 
 whether this stream or the Chebour, in Mesopotamia, which 
 falls into the Euphrates, is the scene of Ezekiel's vision. 
 The mountains on the north side are called Djebel Judi, and 
 the people about here say that the ark rested on them, and 
 that some pieces may be seen there still; they are about 
 1500 or 2000 feet above the plains. This plain was the 
 domain of a powerful Kurdish chief, Said Bey, who took 
 very heavy black mail of all caravans that passed, so that 
 they used to go the road near the desert, collecting into a 
 strong party against the Arabs who infested that side. Said 
 Bey was killed by Beder Khan Bey. 
 
 " After seven hours' ride, we halted at Nahwaran, a Nes- 
 torian village. The inhabitants have no priest, the one they 
 had having died sometime ago. One man, the Keoghja, 
 spoke a little Arabic, and another, called a Shenmos, could 
 read ; they appeared grasping and ignorant, and complained 
 of oppression in the taxes. I shewed them a Gospel, but 
 they did not seem to want it, so I reserved it for another 
 occasion. A priest from the mountains came in ; he was a 
 wild-looking fellow, in scarlet pantaloons ; like a Kurd in all 
 things, except his small black turban. He was engaged in 
 writing a Bible or service-book for a neighbouring village, 
 and begged me to give him a penknife, which he asked for 
 through the medium of the broken Arabic of the now 
 
THE ENVOY. 381 
 
 drunken Keoghja. The poor people of these parts must 
 long continue in ignorance, if greater efforts are not made 
 to instruct them. It will be sometime before they attempt 
 to do anything for themselves, as they are insensible to the 
 advantages of knowledge, either spiritual or temporal. 
 
 " March 1st. St David's Day. High wind in the night 
 and morning ; the atmosphere very gloomy, with droppings 
 of rain, after we started. We reached Jezireh at one, and 
 took up our quarters in the house of Shemnos Oriton, an 
 agent of Mr Eassam's. Alton of Mosul edged himself in 
 under my protection. There was great difficulty in getting 
 places for our horses. Our host provided one horse with a 
 sorry lodging, but Alton's mare, as we were informed, re- 
 mained in the midst of the water. These people are not 
 Christian. We entered Jezireh by a bridge of boats similar 
 to those of Mosul and Bagdad, but of inferior construction, 
 and waving about between wind and current. The river 
 here is about one hundred yards wide. There is a ruined 
 building of considerable size, a mixture of fortifications and 
 dwelling-house, common among the Kurds. The family of 
 Beder Khan Bey used to occupy it, and it was used by that 
 chief himself when visiting his dependency of Jezireh. 
 
 " Jezireh means an island, and the town stands on a piece 
 of ground that is insulated at high water. 
 
 " The long fifty days' fast of the Eastern Church was now 
 close at hand, and the Christians of the place were indulging 
 themselves in raki and feasting as a preparation for their 
 approaching abstinence. My host went to a neighbour's 
 house, and Cass Abb el Ahud came in pretty late. The two 
 deacons from Oroomia were out in the mountains. Alluding 
 
382 THE ENVOY. 
 
 to the fast, the priest said, ' We fast from milk and flesh, 
 and we eat one another.' 
 
 " He was a handsome and intelligent man of about thirty. 
 There is some romance about his history. When very young, 
 he was betrothed to a girl of his native village, near Jezireh. 
 His betrothed was seized in a foray of Beder Khan Bey's on 
 his village, and sold for a slave to a Moslem of Bagdad. 
 As soon as the Christians could venture on inquiries, her 
 destiny was traced, and by the exertions of some friends, 
 I believe some of the heads of the Syrian Church, the 
 Pacha of Bagdad permitted her return. Abb el Ahud 
 went to Bagdad to bring her back. She said, why did 
 not her father come to fetch her. Her father, Bishop 
 Georgis, was dead ; he had been killed by Beder Khan Bey ; 
 and her uncle either came or sent to her, but still she re- 
 fused to return to her home or her betrothed. She had now 
 two children, and professed Islamism. Perhaps affection for 
 her children, perhaps the comforts of a rich Moslem's house, 
 weighed heavily against the toils and poverty of her native 
 village. 
 
 " Abb el Ahud returned in despair, took^ deacon's orders, 
 and soon after priest's, thus precluding himself from ever 
 marrying again. He is now settled as priest of Jezireh, 
 endeavours to be of use to his people, but is much engaged 
 in their secular affairs. He is anxious to establish a school 
 in his native village, and in Jezireh, was promised assist- 
 ance both by Bishop Beynam and the Patriarch, but neither 
 gave him any. They bind burdens, but will not move them 
 with one of their fingers. 
 
 " March 2d, (Sunday.} Remained quiet in the house. 
 
THE ENVOY. 383 
 
 The Christians were still continuing their jollifications, and 
 did not come near me. I sent to Cass Abb el Ahud, but 
 he was gone out. Went to him in the evening ; he was in 
 the church, whither I followed. There was evening service, 
 a few children standing round the priest at the entrance 
 of the church, which is narrow ; they were chanting most 
 discordantly in a language they did not understand. Several 
 came in after me in Kurdish costume, crossing and pros- 
 trating themselves frequently during the prayer. On each 
 side of the entrance, there were grotesque paintings. The 
 priest seemed to have business at his house after the service, 
 so I did not accompany him. Late in the evening, he came. 
 Alton did not appear the whole afternoon. I understood he 
 was drinking arrack in another part of the house, and was 
 vehemently defending a Chaldean priest who had been sus- 
 pended by the Patriarch, whose mandate this priest and a 
 party at Jezireh would not obey. I had some conversation 
 with Abb el Ahud on the doctrine of the two natures, as I 
 wished to learn his views on the subject. He assented to 
 all the Athanasian creed, except the ' proceeding from the 
 Son/ The Jacobite error is philosophical rather than reli- 
 gious on that point. The priest was anxious to <^< 
 Arabic Bible for a friend of his, and for the second time I 
 gave away the copy I had reserved for my own use. He was 
 also glad to get a few tracts. When the first came in, I 
 was sorry to see that the detestable custom of drinking 
 arrack shewed its influence upon him. I left a Syrian Tes- 
 tament for him, having formerly given him two Bibles, and 
 a Turkish Testament. He said that books were much 
 wanted in the mountain. 
 
384 THE ENVOY. 
 
 "March 3d, (Monday.) Started at eight. Alton came 
 with a doleful look, and said, ' We are fasting to-day ;' he 
 admitted their fasts were of no use, but the acknowledgment 
 arose simply from his dislike to the practice. We turned 
 our course to the south-west. Soon ascended a road at first 
 gravel, and afterwards composed of basaltic fragments, rising 
 to a table land similar to that round Diabekir. We halted 
 at a Kurdish village where no one could speak Arabic. Pound 
 good quarters in a place belonging to the Keoghja ; a large 
 room nearly square ; myself in one quarter, and the rest 
 appropriated to the muleteers, servants, and a fellow-traveller. 
 
 " March 4th. Start at 6.30. Distant view of singular 
 hills draped in snow ; the plain full of mounds scattered 
 about. On most of those that were near enough to see, there 
 was a village on some scattered ruins. Halted at 4.15, at 
 Kirkook, a Christian village. The people seemed well off; 
 the women had much silver on their heads ; the men were 
 athletic, and wore long shirts ornamented at the corners. 
 Some knew a little Arabic. One man asked if I fasted, I 
 said no. ' Then you are not a Christian ; all the Christians 
 fast now for fifty days.' ' There are many Christians/ I said, 
 ' who do not fast in these days, and Christians who know 
 more of the gospel than you do;' quoting the words of St 
 Paul, ' The kingdom of heaven is not meat and drink, but 
 righteousness, and peace, and joy in the Holy Ghost.' 
 ' Eight/ he said ; and they soon afterwards began to talk of 
 their oppressions. These I inquired into, and found doubtful. 
 When he left, I promised to give him some books for his 
 brother, who could read. He came again, but not with the 
 priest whom I had asked him to invite. When he saw 
 
THE ENVOY. 385 
 
 several books with me, lie said, ' Are you a Shemnos ? what 
 are you?' I said, 'A priest.' 'Why did you not tell us so 
 before?' I read part of Rom. xiv. ; the hearers approved. 
 
 " Took out a Syrian Bible. Alton of Mosul said that the 
 people here spoke Syriac, and understood the book. I tried 
 them with the first chapter of Genesis. One said, he could 
 not tell what it meant ; another, that it meant that God was 
 the Lord of all things. I left it with them, and told them 
 to tell the priest to interpret it to them, and to teach the 
 children to understand it. 
 
 " The Christians of the mountains generally speak Kurdish, 
 and a corrupt Syriac. They gave a sad account here of the 
 state of some districts, the people frequently robbing and 
 killing each other. The power of Beder Khan Bey extended 
 here. They said he was a good governor for Moslems, but a 
 bad one for Christians, as he took money from them whenever 
 he thought proper, and would not allow them to come and 
 complain, accounting the stone on which they stood unclean. 
 
 Minrli Zth. Started at G.45, and at noon reached Nisida, 
 a fine-looking barrack, built about fifteen years ago, but 
 dilapidated. We entered the village by a pretty good bridge 
 without any parapet, and put up at a khan where we hud 
 spacious accommodation. At Nisida there is a small colony 
 funned by a few Jews, Christians, and Turks, who had been 
 drawn thither by its having been made a military station. 
 
 " I started out in the afternoon, and went to a building I 
 saw on a mound, which looked like the ruins of a Jacobite 
 church. After passing through a narrow opening, I dis- 
 covered a small square chamber witli circular arches over the 
 
 windows, doors, and recesses ; the architecture exquisitely 
 
 2B 
 
386 THE ENVOY. 
 
 carved with crosses and vine leaves. On the pilasters at the 
 angles were square circuitous capitals very finely cut. This 
 opened into a large space, evidently the body of a church, and 
 of the same style of architecture as that now found in the 
 Syrian churches ; it was clearly new, because the ornamental 
 work was cut away to make place for the long square columns 
 of masonry that form the sides of the nave in Jacobite 
 churches. At a little distance were fine columns of the Corin- 
 thian order about three feet in diameter. Some capitals 
 remained; resting on two of them was a single stone. The 
 ground in which the pedestal was buried was ploughed over. 
 A few other broken columns and fragments of brick and 
 masonry were all that remained of a city founded after 
 Nineveh was in ruins. I thought as I gazed, 'The world 
 passeth away, and the glory thereof.' I did not get any 
 opportunity of speaking to the Christians, perhaps because 
 I was too intent upon the ruins." 
 
 The following letter gives the remaining incidents of this 
 journey : 
 
 TO THE EEV. H. VENN". 
 
 " ALEPPO, March 29th, 1851. 
 
 " MY DEAE ME VENN, It is with much thankfulness 
 that I find myself able to address you from this place, thus 
 far on my way westward. My last letter to you was from 
 Bagdad shortly before I left, and I have nothing to mention 
 of interest during the few remaining days that I spent there. 
 The few books that were left of the small quantity that I 
 had taken with me, I intrusted to Mr Sturn, missionary to 
 
THE ENVOY. 387 
 
 the Jews. Some of your publications had been, to a small 
 extent, previously known at Bagdad. 
 
 "I left that place January 22, and, being delayed six 
 days on the road, did not reach Mosul until February 7. 
 The travelling was at this time considered safe, the predatory 
 Bedouins having deserted the left bank of the Tigris. How- 
 ever, I joined a small caravan, consisting of some Mussul- 
 mans and Christians going to Mosul with a few loads of 
 oranges, dates, and timbac, (i.e., tobacco.) The first part of 
 the route was over the plain of the Tigris. We halted at 
 khans, occupied by a few Arabs, who made a little money by 
 selling common necessaries to travellers. We travelled each 
 day from six to ten hours that is, from eighteen to twenty 
 miles. On the 26th we were at Kyfa, a large village, or 
 .small town, being the entrance to a district occupied by a 
 Turkish colony, extending along the plain at the foot of the 
 hills of Southern Kurdistan, and up to the village of Nebi 
 Yonas, opposite Mosul. Here, in the master of the khan, I 
 found a tolerably intelligent old Mussulman, who understood 
 Arabic. In conversation with him I had occasion to mention 
 some of the truths of Christianity, and gave his son one of 
 Sandrecski's little Turkish treatises to read, as the lad did 
 not understand Arabic. He seemed pleased, and read aloud, 
 while some young men listened. After a few pages, he came 
 to the expression ' JL-.SUS, the Son of God.' The young muii 
 exclaimed, ' God forbid ! ' and repeated the formula of the 
 Koran, ' Say God, He is one God ; He is the glorious ; He 
 neither begets nor is begotten, neither is any like unto Him, 5 
 and glanced at me in a manner full of contempt. I tried to 
 shew one of them, who spoke a little Arabic, that he was 
 
388 THE ENVOY. 
 
 too ignorant to venture to talk so freely about God. He 
 was somewhat silenced, but the party went away muttering. 
 The reader, who at first seemed to like the book, put it down, 
 and went away in silence. The old man seemed inclined to 
 take my part, at least so far as to stop the insolence of the 
 others ; but I fear the hope of a present in part influenced 
 his motives. Here, and in other places through the Turkish 
 district, I heard the Moslems speak of the Koran as the 
 word of God more frequently than in other places. This 
 used to grieve me much ; but still I never felt that it was 
 prudent or expedient to contradict them. Had I discussed 
 the matter, a disturbance or insult would have been the very 
 probable result. With sheiks, or men of some information, 
 one may hold private debate ; but the more ignorant people 
 are, the more fierce and intolerant do they become. 
 
 " January 29th. I reached Kirkook, a good-sized Turkish 
 town, where I remained six days on account of the rain, and 
 was hospitably entertained at the house of the principal man 
 of the Chaldeans, who would not allow me to remain at the 
 khan, which was very dirty. There were about fifty families 
 of Chaldeans here, who use altogether the Turkish language, 
 the merchants writing it in the Chaldee character. The 
 services of the Church are in the Syro-Chaldee, which none 
 of them understand. Arabic was very little understood ; so 
 I had no medium of communication, but to a very limited 
 extent. To a few of them I had an opportunity of speaking 
 on the importance of the Word of God, and of their building 
 their faith on it. Not having any Turkish Bibles with me, 
 I endeavoured to procure a copy from Bagdad for one of 
 them. I was not at all aware before I left Bagdad that the 
 
THE ENVOY. 389 
 
 Turkish language was spoken in these districts. I have left 
 a few copies of Sandrecski's little book with the priest for 
 his school, where I saw a few children, without books, learn- 
 ing to repeat prayers of which they understood not one word. 
 
 "The second day after leaving Kirkook we entered the 
 plain of Arbel, and many thoughts were suggested respecting 
 the mighty hosts that had been marshalled there under Darius 
 and Alexander. At Arbel I had some conversation with two 
 or three Jews and Moslems, but shall not now take time to 
 detail it. These things are only indications that sometimes 
 people will listen to some of the truths of the gospel. 
 
 " I reached Mosul, February 8th, and left it the 24th. I 
 was received by many as one who belonged to the place. 
 During my stay I was interested to observe the apparently 
 increased numbers and seriousness of the little party rallying 
 round the American missionaries. Many sympathise with 
 them who are kept from shewing themselves by the fear of 
 persecution ; the most prominent among the Protestants are 
 excommunicated. The leaven is spreading amongst the vil- 
 lages round. The principal man amongst the Protestants is 
 the most interesting Christian I have met in the East. AVhen 
 I was leaving, he expressed his regret at my going, and par- 
 ticularly so, because he said he had understood that, had not 
 the Americans been there, I should have remained, and he 
 had been the means of their occupying that mission. The 
 Jacobite Bishop is doing his utmost to oppose the movement ; 
 the Papists, as a rule, are looking on quietly. At Teli Kaif, 
 they wished to take away some Testaments that had been 
 given by myself and Mr Marsh, but the people would not 
 surrender them, saying, 'Give us other books, and then we 
 
390 THE ENVOY. 
 
 will give these.' I took every occasion, as far as I was per- 
 sonally concerned, to contradict the assertion that the English 
 did not love the Americans, though I always gave them to 
 understand that I was thankful for the ecclesiastical order in 
 which we resembled the Oriental Churches. Prior to leaving 
 Mosul, I administered the holy communion at the Consulate, 
 Mr Marsh, and six of the Protestants, including Cass Michael, 
 who calls himself a member of our Church, partook. This 
 was the first time the five had been received to the Protest- 
 ant communion. I regret that the service was in English, 
 which only three of the natives understood; but for certain 
 reasons I thought it best to use it, chiefly because I did not 
 wish to disturb the thoughts of a solemn season by imper- 
 fect pronunciation. At present I must pass over what little 
 I might mention of the road, and go on to say that I left 
 Mosul, February 22, reaching Diarbekir, March 11. Here 
 I found Dr Smith of the American Aintab Mission. I met 
 with much pleasure some of the little Protestant flock I had 
 known here before, and found that the number was greatly 
 increased. Dr Smith had been there during the winter, and 
 the Americans are preparing to make this a permanent 
 station. A missionary has come out to occupy it, and one 
 from the old stations is also preparing to go there. From 
 Diarbekir I travelled in company with Dr Smith to Orfa, and 
 from thence I went to Aintab, where I spent the last Sab- 
 bath. The movement there still advances. Last Sunday 
 more than five hundred persons attended the morning meet- 
 ing, the most interesting and largest congregation I have 
 seen in the East. Indeed, nowhere else is there anything 
 like it ; the nearest approach is in the Nestorian Mission. 
 
THE ENVOY. 391 
 
 Leaving Aintab, I reached this on the 25th, and took up my 
 lodgings at the house of Mr Ford, a Presbyterian of the 
 American Board. 
 
 " I am soriy that, having mistaken the time of the post's 
 leaving, I am unable to write as fully as I could wish, so I 
 must conclude my letter with a few general remarks, and 
 first bear with me while I acknowledge the feelings with 
 which I look back on the wanderings of the last twelve 
 months. They are those of deep humiliation, under a sense 
 of my sinfulness and unprofitableness as an evangelist, even 
 in the limited use of one only of the languages of the nations 
 which I have met. Alas ! how often have the excitements, 
 the incidents, and the pleasures of travel made me neglect 
 the few opportunities that presented themselves ! How often 
 has worldly prudence withheld me from speaking the truth 
 at times when a patient watching for opportunities might 
 have enabled me to introduce a word in season ! I have 
 indeed reason to bless God for His mercy to a sinner. I 
 have not been able sufficiently to collect my ideas after the 
 excitement of a long journey, or to attempt giving any 
 general view of the facts I have become acquainted "with ; 
 but thus much I may say that a wide door is opening here 
 for evangelical truth, the result under God of personal labour, 
 the diligent distribution of the books of the Bible Society, 
 and other publications, including the Church Missionary 
 press at Malta. The population is Christian, chiefly com- 
 posed of the new Papal sects. The missionary movement is 
 limited, but progressive ; at present it is firmly opposed by 
 the chief ecclesiastics, who nevertheless profess a desire to 
 educate their people, but have no means. These ecclesiastics 
 
392 THE ENVOY. 
 
 generally assert their regard for the Church of England ; but 
 this arises from her Episcopal, not from her Evangelical 
 character. In my intercourse with these people, I always 
 endeavour to describe the English Eeformation as having 
 been brought about by the Bishops working and leading 
 the people to that great event, and that other churches have 
 no Bishops because their rulers would not join the reforma- 
 tion with the people. The Moslems have, in some measure, 
 felt the influence of what is going on here ; but as yet the 
 American missionaries would not attempt to approach them 
 directly, feeling that such a course might compromise the 
 very existence of their work in Turkey. The time for the 
 open preaching of the gospel to the Moslems is not yet come. 
 
 " It was not without something of a feeling of regret that 
 I have, as it were, withdrawn and resigned the field to our 
 American brethren. They are now preparing to occupy it 
 strongly. Some of the people in various places have ex- 
 pressed a wish that our Church would send them mission- 
 aries ; but I have not encouraged the idea, feeling that two 
 different denominations side by side in such a field might act 
 injuriously to the cause of Christ. 
 
 " I am, by some mistake, without letters from England or 
 Jerusalem, whither I now purpose to go by land, and thence 
 to Egypt, to try to use my lame Arabic a little there. This 
 was my original plan, and I see no reason for changing it at 
 present. I had once hoped to have reached England by May, 
 but must give up that idea. I was not able to find any one 
 at Mosul who appeared a suitable pupil for the Malta College. 
 Two or three were proposed, but I could not place such de- 
 pendence on them as to venture on the responsibility of tak- 
 
THE ENVOY. 393 
 
 ing them so far away. However, should there be an opening 
 for any, I might send a description of such as could come ; 
 and if the committee wished it, one or two might be selected. 
 
 " I cannot close without acknowledging the mercy of the 
 Lord which has permitted me to come this long way without 
 let or hindrance, or scarcely even a trifling accident of any 
 kind. My journey from Mosul here occupied thirty days. 
 We halted four Sabbaths and two other days, going a day 
 out of our route by Aintab, and lengthening two other days' 
 journey to go to Orfa. 
 
 " Pardon the many imperfections of this letter, and please 
 write to me any instructions and admonitions you may think 
 needed, and how I may best serve the interest of the Society. 
 
 " May the blessing of the Lord rest upon the Society and 
 all its labours. Believe me, my dear Mr Venn, yours very 
 faithfully in Christ, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 The following letter from a native Christian at Mosul will 
 be given here. Though written much later in the year, it 
 will appropriately conclude this portion of the travels in the 
 far East : 
 
 TRANSLATION OF A LETTEK EROM CASS MICHAEL OF MOSUL. 
 
 " EXCELLENT BROTHER, VALUED, HONOURED MR BOWEN, 
 DISTINGUISHED AND CHOSEN, May my inquiry after your 
 valued pleasure arrive. We make known to your excellency 
 that your letter dated Smyrna, September 21, Western reckon- 
 ing, has come to hand, and I greatly thanked your kindness 
 for the words of comfort contained in it. When it arrived I 
 was ready to go to visit Mar Shamoun, and did not abandon 
 
394 THE ENVOY. 
 
 my design, but went after two days. My chief purpose in 
 going was not that I might obtain the good-will of the 
 patriarch only, but to obtain an order from him to that 
 effect, that I might satisfy by it the persons whom I wish 
 to instruct, for they pay great attention to the order of the 
 patriarch, as you understand, and without his order perhaps 
 they would have hindered each other from coming together 
 to hear the word of God, and then when I arrived with him 
 I obtained my desire just as I wished, and returned to my 
 place in peace after thirty days ; and in all this time I did 
 not meet with anything untoward in my journey, except for 
 two days, the day of my arrival at Cochanes, the village of 
 the patriarch, and the day of departure thence, and that 
 was from the quantity of fresh snow, for it was in depth about 
 one fathom in some places on that mountain ; and once I 
 fell from the back of the animal, and was covered with snow ; 
 then the muleteer found me and pulled me out bodily ; and 
 I thought we should be lost that day, and we wandered be- 
 cause of the clouds and darkness which came upon us, and 
 we no longer saw one another nor the road, for the mountain 
 was white ; and now we thank God that we are in one place. 
 There have come to Mosul from Tyari about twenty souls ; 
 and last Sunday I met them in the bazaar, and spoke to them 
 of my design, and of the order of Mar Shamoun, and they 
 shewed obedience and submission. I preached to them there 
 perhaps more than an hour, and they promised me that they 
 would come to my house the next Sunday, and thus every 
 Sunday whilst they remained at Mosul. 
 
 " After my return from the mountain, I saw Stephan your 
 servant, and took from him the piece of cloth and the letter 
 
THE ENVOY. 395 
 
 of Aoudie Assan ; and I thanked your kindness, and rejoiced 
 greatly at the growth of the brethren at Nablous. We pray 
 God that He would cause to rise the light of knowledge of 
 Him in the four quarters of the world, Amen. We ask you 
 to remember us in your prayers, and also that you would 
 write to us sometimes a word of comfort. May you be 
 spared. The loving suppliant, your brother the priest, 
 
 " MICHAEL JIMALA. 
 
 " Dated MOSUL, 
 "Year 1851, December 16th, Western reckoning." 
 
 " P.S. In the course of the conversation between me and 
 Mar Shamoun concerning the instruction of his people, he 
 declared to me that he did not like the Americans, because 
 they withdrew his people from obedience to the heads, (i.e., 
 rulers,) and abolished the Liturgy of the Church. He praised 
 the English Church to me ; and I said to him, ' Do you wish 
 that I should send to ask missionaries for you from the Eng- 
 lish Church to open schools and preach amongst your flock, 
 to teach the ignorant the things necessary for saving their 
 souls. lie was silent, and gave me no answer; but added, 
 that missionaries of the English Church would not wish to 
 abolish our Liturgy, for they have a Liturgy, and I love them 
 much. 
 
 " Bishop Beynam, the Jacobite : I conveyed to him your 
 salutation, which he received with joy, bidding me write 
 to you his salutation also ; and some said to him, ' If you 
 had been willing, and had said to Mr Bowen that he should 
 open schools amongst your flock, perhaps he would have 
 remained here, and would not have gone ;' and his answer 
 
396 THE ENVOY. 
 
 was, that ' Mr Bowen did not ask that of me, and for that 
 reason I did not tell him he might do so.' Afterwards, he 
 declared to those who spoke with him that he would receive 
 the doctrine of the English Church, and their work amongst 
 his flock ; and he would not receive the Americans, for they 
 had no bishops or priests, and errors were found in their 
 doctrine. And from hence, Mr and Mrs Eassam salute you, 
 and also all the brethren ; lastly, the people of our house 
 send you the proper tokens of affection. May you be kept 
 in peace ! We pray God to appoint us all a portion in the 
 heavenly felicity ! Amen." 
 
 While in these parts, Mr Bowen frequently met Mr Lay- 
 ard, who has kindly given us a sketch of their intercourse in 
 the far East ; and as it principally refers to this period, we 
 shall introduce part of it here : 
 
 " MY DEAE SIR, You have requested me to send you a 
 short account of my intercourse in the East with your 
 lamented relative, the late Dr Bowen. It is with unmixed 
 satisfaction that I look back to the short time we spent 
 there together, and I willingly avail myself of your invita- 
 tion to add my testimony to that which so many will be 
 eager to afford of his goodness and worth. 
 
 " 1 first became acquainted with Dr Bowen in the summer 
 of 1850. I was then encamped opposite the town of Mosul, 
 on the Mound of Kouyunjik, amidst the excavated ruins of 
 the palace of Sennacherib. He brought me letters from 
 various members of the British Embassy at Constantinople, 
 amongst whom he appeared to have excited a very lively 
 
THE ENVOY. 397 
 
 interest. He was on a journey of inspection amongst the 
 Eastern Churches. He and his companion, Mr Sandrecski, 
 joined my party, and remained with me until the extreme 
 heat of the weather compelled us all to seek a cooler climate 
 in the Kurdish hills. During the period of his visit to Mo- 
 sul, Dr Bowen was principally occupied in investigating the 
 condition of the Syrian and Chaldean Christians. With the 
 former he had already made acquaintance during his journey 
 through Syria and the northern part of Mesopotamia. He 
 naturally felt a deep interest in these remnants of two of 
 the most ancient Churches of the East. The Chaldeans have 
 seceded from their original faith, the so-called Nestorian ; 
 and although they have retained many of their early reli- 
 gious observances and practices, and their ancient language 
 in the celebration of their worship, they are now completely 
 united to the Church of Rome. The Syrian or Jacobite Chris- 
 tians, on the contrary, adhere to the Monophysite doctrine, 
 and still maintain their ritual as an independent Church. 
 Both sects have bishops at Mosul, and with them Dr Bowen 
 was in frequent intercourse. The extreme simplicity and 
 frankness of his address, the patient and liberal manner in 
 which In; listened to and discussed opinions not his own, and 
 the complete absence of anything approaching to overl-ar- 
 ing self-confidence and intolerance in his conduct and lan- 
 guage, soon made a most favourable impression upon thoso 
 with whom he was brought into contact, and at once insured 
 their confidence and respect. Only those who know the dif- 
 ficulties with which missionaries, and such as have to deal 
 with religious subjects, have to contend in the East, and the 
 hostility they experience, especially from their Christian an- 
 
398 THE ENVOY. 
 
 tagonists, could fully appreciate the position which Dr Bowen 
 had in a short time acquired for himself. He was equally 
 successful, on account of these excellent qualities I have 
 described, with the Mohammedans with whom he had inter- 
 course. I have seen him for hours together with an old 
 Mullah, the two seated together on his little carpet, his only 
 travelling furniture, arguing with the utmost good humour, 
 listening patiently to his companion's objections or asser- 
 tions, never giving needless offence, or unnecessarily wound- 
 ing another's prejudices, but at the same time insisting, like 
 an honest man, upon his own convictions. The Mussulmans 
 were no less influenced than the Christians by the extreme 
 truthfulness, gentleness, and frankness of his character, and 
 never shewed that irritation which I have seen them shew, 
 and not unnaturally, when challenged by inconsiderate per- 
 sons to discuss religious questions. 
 
 " Dr Bowen often accompanied me in my visits to Nim- 
 roud, and other Assyrian ruins, which I was at that time 
 exploring. He always felt the liveliest interest in the won- 
 derful monuments that were being disclosed, and in the 
 interesting illustrations they afforded of a past civilisation. 
 On more than one Sunday he celebrated Divine service for 
 my party in the midst of the excavated ruins themselves, 
 I and the few Englishmen who were there assembled, to 
 whom were sometimes added my Nestorian workmen from 
 the mountains, the similarity of whose doctrine and church- 
 discipline to those of the Church of England is now well 
 known. It would, perhaps, be impossible to imagine a more 
 impressive or solemn spectacle than this offering up of 
 Christian prayer amidst the crumbling remains of the 
 
THE ENVOY. 399 
 
 temples and palaces of those kings who, in the pride of 
 their glory and might, had executed the Divine vengeance 
 upon the chosen people, and in the presence of a few miser- 
 able families, the only descendants now in the land of the 
 great people who had ruled over it. 
 
 " Dr Bowen left me in July to visit the mountain Nestorian 
 tribes, and the American missions amongst the Nestorian 
 inhabitants of the Persian frontier districts. I followed him 
 to the high lands soon after, and we met again at Van in 
 Armenia. He was then inquiring into the condition of the 
 Armenian Christians, who form the principal portion of the 
 population of this part of the ancient Armenian kingdom. 
 He expressed himself, as he always did to me, highly gratified 
 by his visit to the American missionaries, and bore a willing 
 and earnest testimony to the zeal, devotion, and discretion, 
 which they displayed in their intercourse with the natives 
 of this country, and to their success in their self-sacrificing 
 labours. No man could be better able to feel the real worth 
 and importance of the services to Christianity which the 
 American missionaries were rendering in the East, or could 
 more readily appreciate the difficulties with which they had 
 to contend, and the manner in which they surmounted them. 
 His evidence on this subject was of great value, and I do not 
 doubt that the reports which he wrote to England contributed 
 much to the establishment of a more Christian feeling on tlio 
 part of a large section of the Church of England towards our 
 American brethren in the East, and ultimately those cordial 
 relations between them which now happily exist. This alone 
 was a good service rendered to the cause in which he laboured. 
 
 " We parted again at Ooroomiyah, Dr Bowen to continue his 
 
400 THE ENVOY. 
 
 journey amongst the Nestorians, myself to return to Mosul 
 through the higher regions of Armenia south of Lake Van. 
 Dr Bowen travelled with a single servant, and with few indeed 
 of the comforts usually possessed by the most economical 
 English traveller. He was very hardy, and cared very little 
 for such advantages. He had nothing with him but the 
 actual necessaries of life, no tent nor bed. He slept on a 
 small carpet, such as is used in the East for prayer, spread in 
 the open air under a tree. Like the rest of us he was con- 
 stantly exposed to attacks of intermittent fever, that most 
 enervating of complaints. He had two common pack-horses 
 or ponies ; one he rode himself, upon the other, above his 
 scanty baggage, was perched his servant. This youth, a 
 Christian, was, it would seem, an arrant coward. The 
 country through which they travelled was by no means safe, 
 and, according to his account, they met with more than one 
 adventure with robber Kurds, in which his master behaved 
 with great courage and tact, succeeding in making his way 
 through the mountains, and preserving his few possessions 
 from the marauders. By these qualities Dr Bowen was 
 indeed eminently distinguished. I have rarely met with a 
 man better fitted to be a traveller amongst wild tribes, both 
 from his indifference to danger and hardship when he con- 
 sidered it a duty to encounter them, and his power of adapting 
 himself to the habits of those around him. 
 
 " We again met in the winter at Bagdad, where Dr Bowen 
 was attacked by a severe fever, which confined him for some 
 days to his bed, and at one time caused considerable anxiety 
 to his friends. Here again he made the same impression 
 that remained behind him wherever he went. Amongst the 
 
THE ENVOY. 401 
 
 English collected there in a small social circle, his manly, 
 straightforward bearing, his complete freedom from intoler- 
 ance, his consideration for the feelings and opinions of others, 
 and his sincere, unaffected Christianity, elicited the utmost 
 deference and respect. The position which he so rapidly 
 gained was specially remarkable, in the contrast it afforded 
 with that which others who had been engaged in missionary 
 labours in Bagdad had unfortunately held. Dr Bowen had 
 seen the world in its various phases, and he knew what men 
 were. It is the absence of this knowledge which is too 
 frequently the cause of failure amongst well-intentioned men 
 in their efforts to direct and influence others. 
 
 "In this place, as at Mosul, the moral sway which he 
 exercised over the Christians was peculiarly marked. He 
 had now learnt to speak Arabic with some fluency, and was 
 able to communicate freely in that language upon religious 
 and other topics. He did so constantly, both with the 
 Christians of the various sects, and with the Mohammedans 
 of the place. He left me early in the spring in Babylonia on 
 his return to the west, nor did we meet again in the country 
 where we had travelled together." 
 
 TO THE REV. H. VENN. 
 
 " DAMASCUS, April 28, 1 851. 
 
 " MY DEAR MR VENN, I shall not trouble you with a 
 long despatch on the present occasion, having little to detail 
 since my last from Aleppo. But after leaving that place, 
 I have ascertained one or two facts which I am anxious to 
 lay before you, and, if you think proper, before the committee, 
 
 as likely to influence my future movements. 
 
 2c 
 
402 THE ENVOY. 
 
 "At Aleppo I met a gentleman (the Hon. F. Walpole) 
 who has been staying some time at Latakia, and has been 
 going a good deal amongst the Anzayri a people who 
 inhabit the mountains of North Syria, lying between the 
 Arontes and the sea. Their religion is secret. They call 
 themselves openly peasants, but have another name of their 
 own. They are not a Mohammedan sect, nor have they 
 sacred books, (though this is not quite certain.) They are 
 partial to worshipping in high places, where they frequently 
 have groves. There is no evidence that they have idols ; they 
 sometimes profess Islamism, but only from fear. They have 
 a great reverence for Khudr Elias, or El Khudr, by whom is 
 understood St George. Some of them said he was 'light/ 
 and denied his being a man. A few that I spoke with 
 seemed interested in the first chapter of St John's Gospel, 
 its mystical character being suited to their minds. Some 
 have thought this people a remnant of the ancient Canaanites, 
 but it is more probable they are the offspring of some of the 
 Gnostic heresies. There is a tradition amongst them that 
 they came from Bagdad, which, with their use of the Arabic 
 language, would seem to imply their Mussulman origin ; 
 though the use of the Arabic, of course, would not prove 
 that throughout these mountains it has supplanted the 
 Syrian amongst the Christians, and the Kurdish amongst 
 some of the Turkish tribes. These people were disarmed by 
 Ibrahim Pasha after a severe struggle, and were again armed 
 at the English intervention. They have often blood-feuds 
 amongst themselves, and though they pay tribute, are not 
 much under the control of Government, robberies and skir- 
 mishes being frequent in their mountains. Latakia is the 
 
THE ENVOY. 403 
 
 principal town for trade with them. The inhabitants of this 
 place are much afraid of venturing among them, and even a 
 few years ago, when the Anzayri have come in under a safe- 
 conduct, they have waylaid them and pursued them to a spot 
 where they supposed the protection of the safe-conduct ex- 
 pired. They have recently been enrolled for the conscrip- 
 tion, and are most unwilling to submit to it. Some of them 
 said they would become English, that is, embrace the English 
 religion, if it could save them from the army. This I did 
 not hear, however, till after leaving their district. I should 
 have stated that, having been considerably interested by 
 what I heard from Mr Walpole respecting this people, I pro- 
 longed my journey by joining him at Latakia ; and we took 
 a short tour in the mountains, passing through some Anzayri 
 villages, and the district of the Kadmonsia a sect of Moham- 
 medan heretics, called also Ishmael Bey, or sons of Ishmael. 
 At Latakia I had many opportunities of speaking to mem- 
 bers of the Greek Church, many of whom seemed interested 
 in the proof of truth from Scriptures. It has occurred to me 
 that there may be an opening for missionary work amongst 
 the Anzayri. They say that they can muster seventy thou- 
 sand men, but that is doubtful ; their whole number may be 
 one hundred and fifty thousand or two hundred thousand 
 individuals, who have been living for centuries in great igno- 
 rance and darkness, despised and hunted down.* I should 
 
 * Mr Walpole mentions Mr Bowen at Latakia in his work on the 
 Anzayri, thus : " A dear friend arrived from Aleppo. Our travels had 
 been twisted over each other curiously. Possessed of a competency fully 
 equal to his well-regulated wants, with wish and will to settle, he con- 
 sidered the Lord had granted him his fine frame and powerful understand- 
 ing to serve Him actively on earth. Disdaining the means he could com- 
 
404 THE ENVOY. 
 
 have waited longer amongst them, had I not wished to meet 
 Bishop Gobat, and also thought it needless to ascertain 
 whether there was an opening amongst them, unless there 
 were a prospect of due and prompt advantage being taken of 
 it. Under these circumstances I am induced to lay this 
 sketch of the people before you ; and should Bishop Gobat 
 not have other employment for me, and should the Society 
 feel at liberty to engage in any operations in that quarter, I 
 would gladly devote some time this summer to learning if 
 anything, and what, could be done amongst them. On the 
 other hand, it may be, that anything the Society would be 
 able to do in these parts had better be done in Jerusalem 
 and its environs under the immediate direction of the Bishop. 
 The impression made upon me now is that there are many 
 openings, though perhaps not decided ones. May the Lord 
 guide the steps of His servants, and send forth labourers 
 into His harvest ! . . . . There is here one very able man 
 
 amongst the Protestants, Dr , author of a treatise in 
 
 Arabic on the Papal controversy. He shewed me a MS. 
 defence of the Church of England in Arabic, prepared for 
 the press at Malta, but never published. He says it would 
 be a useful work. 
 
 " One day last week I had three hours' discussion, by ap- 
 pointment, with a Jew, but I fear without any useful result, 
 except perhaps the effect of a dispute of the kind in a friendly 
 spirit. 
 
 mand, he roamed to plead his Master's cause. Nor were his hours of rest 
 those of idleness ; in those he communicated the glad tidings of great joy, 
 which his own heart so felt which his own life was an endeavour to illus- 
 trate." The Anzayri, vol. ii., p. 282. 
 
THE ENVOY. 405 
 
 "I hope to leave to-morrow for Jerusalem, and expect 
 much interest from again seeing the people of Nazareth and 
 Nablous on the way. 
 
 " I am not able to arrange my ideas at present on the im- 
 portant bearing of missions in these countries. As regards 
 the Moslems, it is still a most difficult question, though there 
 are many encouraging indications in the way of overcoming' 
 prejudices against Franks, even in this fanatical city ; more- 
 over, the tolerant character of the present administration is 
 very hopeful, though there is much cause of alarm in the 
 inconstancy and inconsistency of the Turks. The blessing of 
 our God rest on your labours. Forget not the wanderers in 
 prayer. Yours, &c., JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 In another letter, written from Damascus, he says : 
 
 " I am now lodging in the street called Straight, though 
 in an establishment of a very different description from that 
 which received Saul of Tarsus. The town is very prettily 
 situated amongst verdant orchards at the foot of some hills, 
 whose bare and rugged sides are in strong contrast to the 
 rich verdure extending for miles at their base. The interior 
 of the houses here is very handsomely ornamented, and the 
 Damascenes pride themselves much on it. The Jews are a 
 large and wealthy community, but the missionaries have but 
 little access to them, nor do they confine their labours to the 
 Christian community, very few of whom are brought under 
 Protestant influence. It is pleasing to hear of the break- 
 ing down of Mohammedan prejudice in this once bigoted 
 city." 
 
406 THE ENVOY. 
 
 TO THE EEV. H. VENN. 
 
 "JERUSALEM, May 27, 1851. 
 
 " MY DEAR MR VENN, I send you a copy of the minutes 
 of our conference at Jerusalem. Our notes on the various 
 topics are brief, the Bishop thinking it best to leave it to 
 each individual to write to the Society, and make his own 
 comments on the ideas and suggestions we agreed upon in 
 common. 
 
 " Before entering upon details, I must recur a little to my 
 own movements, and explain what will appear a little strange 
 in my not making more speed to Jerusalem. But I doubt 
 not that you will have gathered from my letters from Aleppo 
 and Damascus that I did not know of the proposed meeting 
 of our friends here, not having met with any letters since my 
 leaving Mosul. I had, therefore, no intimation that the sug- 
 gestion I had ventured to make would have been acted upon, 
 and must say I feel gratified to the committee for having 
 thought so much of my poor opinion. Nor am I without 
 apprehension that it may appear to some that our meeting 
 has not been of much value, though I trust this will prove 
 a mistake ; at all events, it has been edifying to ourselves. 
 Of my journey from Damascus here I have not much to re- 
 port. At Tiberias I did not find much encouragement. The 
 man who professed Protestantism there was about to leave 
 the place. But at Nazareth I was surprised to find how far 
 Protestant principles had advanced. Their advocates formed 
 a distinct community, had increased to twenty families, and 
 had been firm under much persecution. The leader of this 
 movement is a man of uncommon energy for an Oriental. He 
 
THE ENVOY. 407 
 
 had been obliged to pay debts falsely sworn against him ; 
 and when nothing else would do, the convent offered him 
 100 (1000 piastres) to give up the introduction of Protes- 
 tantism into Nazareth. His wife had given up all her gold 
 and ornaments to meet the unjust demands on her husband. 
 " Meanwhile the new church, conscious of its ignorance, is 
 very anxious for a teacher. I arrived there on a Saturday, 
 and met the greater part of the converts on the Sabbath. 
 The sheik or head-man read with his father-in-law portions 
 of our service, and afterwards I offered up a brief, special 
 prayer, and made my first effort at public preaching in Arabic. 
 I believe I was understood tolerably well." They expressed a 
 wish that I would come amongst them. I promised to do 
 so for a time, if the Bishop approved. They are about pur- 
 chasing a piece of ground for a cemetery. The Bishop has 
 advanced them 500 piastres, which will be nearly enough for 
 the purpose ; and I am inclined to think it would be good 
 policy to build a church there as soon as possible. A place 
 appointed would promote greater solemnity in worship, and, 
 by giving an appearance of stability to the movement, would 
 really do much to promote its permanence and growth. It 
 has been decided that I should return there for a space say 
 a month or six weeks, or more to establish them a little. I 
 really feel that it is a very important field, and I trust to be 
 able during my stay to visit many of the villages round ; and 
 if I find it can be done without much risk or expense, (in the 
 way of presents to the Arabs for safe conduct or protection,) 
 shall try to visit the country beyond Jordan, Djebel Ajelun, 
 and Salt. At Salt I hear there have been very serious affrays, 
 in which several persons have been killed, and others obliged 
 
408 THE ENVOY. 
 
 to leave the place, the result of factions between the local 
 governors or sheiks. There is something very pitiable in 
 this little community, in the midst of Arabs, destroying one 
 another. 
 
 " At Nablous, there does not appear to have been much 
 change in any way. The school prospers, having a consider- 
 able number of children, in good order, and progressing 
 fairly. Some of the elder boys had been at the school at 
 Jerusalem, and had displayed very tolerable proficiency in 
 English. The advance of this people in spiritual knowledge 
 has been kept back by the want of a resident missionary. 
 I shall make a short stay of a few days amongst them on 
 my way to Nazareth. I trust the Lord will be pleased to 
 make my sojourn useful 
 
 " It has not been thought advisable that I should return 
 to Egypt at present ; and therefore I purpose, about the end 
 of the summer, turning my steps homeward, when I hope to 
 have an opportunity of giving as good an account as I can 
 of the information I may have gathered. There are many 
 thoughts on the missionary work which have occurred to me, 
 which I would prefer reserving for our first meeting. I trust, 
 however, to hear from you before I leave this country, as the 
 time required for communication is short. 
 
 " Since coming here, I received an earnest invitation from 
 Lady Canning, urging me to come to Constantinople, as they 
 were again without a chaplain. However, one had been 
 appointed, and was expected about the time I received my 
 letter, so my going was needless : at the same time, as I had 
 set on foot an endeavour to get a second clergyman appointed 
 in that city, I have offered to go there on my way home, if 
 
THE ENVOY. 409 
 
 by so doing I could further this arrangement. This may 
 delay still further my homeward journey. I am thankfuHo 
 hear that you have decided on establishing a station here, 
 and shall be glad to welcome the missionary brother whom 
 you may designate to this field. His ordination will prob- 
 ably have taken place by the time you get this. May the 
 Lord fit him for his work in all respects ! 
 
 " I do not feel that I can at present go into many details 
 respecting our mutual observations, but will merely give a 
 statement of those principles and views under the influence 
 of which I advocate a continuance and increase of the 
 Society's labours in these parts. 
 
 " The mind of the Christian population has almost every- 
 where been informed and somewhat stirred on the subject 
 of Bible Christianity. Many are, it is true, indifferent, and 
 many oppose ; a very few believe, and a few more inquire ; 
 everywhere there are some who are intellectually convinced 
 that the truth is with us, though of not many can it be said 
 that their hearts are touched. In some places, however, as 
 in some of the American settlements, there is more life and 
 stir ; and the fact that there are many Protestants becomes 
 more and more noised abroad, so that men ask what these 
 things mean. The Protestant missionary is at hand to give 
 an intelligent answer to the question, and this is an oppor- 
 tunity for preaching the gospel. 
 
 " Every missionary station is, as it were, a foothold against 
 the enemy; if we give it up, we cannot recover it without 
 much difficulty. I consider that the possession of property 
 is of importance ; as an instance of it, the native, or rather 
 antichristian sects, endeavour to prevent the mission from 
 
410 THE ENVOY. 
 
 purchasing land, and buy it about the church whenever they 
 can. 
 
 " We have given our opinion that there is no door open for 
 preaching the gospel to the Turks directly, but indirectly the 
 gospel is being presented to them by the Protestants. They 
 inquire about the cause of their separation from the other 
 churches ; and there are individuals who would embrace 
 Christianity, could they do it without the imminent hazard, 
 if not certain loss, of their lives. Soon, I trust, the reformed 
 Government of Turkey will discover that the cause of the 
 desolation of their country is the Koran, that infidelity is 
 as bad, and that the only hope for the re-establishment of 
 Turkey in the scale of nations will be found in making it a 
 Protestant empire. The Turks and Armenians, as a Protest- 
 ant people, would promise much ; and a strong Protestant 
 country here would be far better for England than a parti- 
 tion of the empire an idea that is sometimes spoken of. 
 
 " This is going a little out of my sphere ; but politicians 
 may be induced to support the truth from motives of ex- 
 pediency, and the time may come when they may be induced 
 to adopt it for its own sake. It is of importance that we 
 should be prepared to take advantage of the openings towards 
 this end ; hence I say, Do not give up a foot of ground in the 
 Moslem countries. With regard to Egypt, the impression on 
 my mind has been to ask the question, Why have we not 
 such a work as amongst the Armenians ? may it not, in some 
 respects, be traced to the system pursued ? Let us, in faith 
 and prayer, try a more energetic and aggressive system- 
 shall I say, let us seek to shew more earnestness and con- 
 sistency. There will be a great many difficulties and trials 
 
THE ENVOY. 411 
 
 in pursuing a new system, and very much will depend upon 
 the individual character and judgment of the missionary. At 
 all events, do not let us give up until we have tried every- 
 thing ; and then, if the door is closed, we can turn elsewhere. 
 " I feel, also, that we have viewed the subject without re- 
 ference to the many other claims upon the Society, but only 
 considering the work that is to be done now, or that can be 
 done. There is also another important principle, the value 
 of which is shewn by the American system, and which the 
 Society have, I believe, also adopted viz., the necessity of 
 strong missions, or several missionaries at the same or neigh- 
 bouring stations working connectedly. I should have felt 
 inclined to make remarks on the qualifications and gifts 
 requisite for missionaries, but of this you have abundant 
 experience. Talent and good education are of importance 
 here. There is one thing I may mention, as an indication of 
 the times here. A young man said to me last night, ' Preach 
 in Arabic, and I will get a hundred young men to hear you.' 
 
 This may be an exaggeration, but it is a sign Yours 
 
 very faithfully in Christ, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 In a letter to one of his sisters Mr Bowen sums up yet 
 more succinctly the impressions of his journey westward : 
 
 "My return journey, via Mosul, Mardin, Diarbekir, Orfa, 
 Aleppo, Latakia, Baalbec, Damascus, to this place was highly 
 interesting on many accounts partly from the meeting again 
 of old acquaintances amongst the natives, partly from the 
 visits I paid to the remains of antiquity, but chiefly on 
 account of the increased religious interest I found in many 
 
412 THE ENVOY. 
 
 places. Inquirers were advanced in the knowledge of truth, 
 and others were added to them. The form that the religious 
 movement is taking here is decidedly Protestant ; the Eastern 
 Churches are in practice and theory as corrupt as the Komish, 
 and more gross in their superstition. The Evangelicals have 
 been obliged to forsake their old denominations, and in many 
 places there have been formed little congregations of Protest- 
 ants. These have been greatly persecuted by their old co- 
 religionists, but are now protected by a firman from the 
 Porte, fully recognising the principle of toleration 
 
 " Yesterday I preached at the English Church on Phil. i. 21. 
 A very important text, containing the course or rule of 
 our life. And if that first clause is true of us, it shews in 
 the second that great privilege of the true believer which 
 was so happily exemplified in our dear mother. The account 
 you give of the carelessness and indifference around you (in 
 India) does not surprise me ; numbers kept under restraint 
 in Protestant England are glad to shew their unbelief by 
 throwing aside the little form of religion they once possessed. 
 It is very sad that those who are called Christians, and are 
 possessed of so many Christian privileges, should not only 
 seek the destruction of their own souls, but hinder the salva- 
 tion of others by their opposition to the gospel ; for such is 
 really the practical effect of the conduct of every ungodly 
 man. 
 
 " I trust it may please God to open to you some way of 
 usefulness, besides what is required of you in your own 
 house, according to the custom of my dear sisters. Every- 
 where, through the blessing of God, we must bear witness 
 for Christ. . 
 
THE ENVOY. 41 3 
 
 " The Lord is surely working in this land, and the battle 
 is somewhat of the same kind as that which is being fought 
 in England. The struggle is between scriptural truth and 
 antichristian error, under the form of a religion drawing its 
 name from Christ, but most of its doctrines from heathenism 
 and corrupt philosophy. No door is directly open to the 
 Moslems, because the Government, which tolerates Protestant 
 missions to the Christians, would not protect an effort to 
 overthrow the religion of the state ; but the very existence of 
 such agencies is doing much to open the eyes of the Moslems 
 
 who appreciate a Christianity without idolatry One 
 
 thing is deeply impressed on my mind that there is a great 
 work to be done in the world. I see it here, and the reports 
 from the missionary stations elsewhere assert the same. The 
 harvest is great, but where are the labourers ? where are the 
 means of sending them ? Thank God, England has done so 
 much, but she might do more. I trust the friends of mis- 
 sions will persevere, and that many more will join their 
 ranks." 
 
 It was decided at the Conference of Missionaries at Jeru- 
 salem, that Mr Bowen should take charge for a time of the 
 new Protestant congregation at Nazareth. He, accordingly, 
 set out early in June, spending a few days with his old 
 friends at Nablous on the way. 
 
 NAZAKETH. 
 
 "June 5th. Left Nablous this morning at seven, and 
 proceeded by the usual route over Mount EbaL The day 
 fine, and not hot. We passed over rocky, cultivated hills, and 
 
THE ENVOY. 
 
 in a few hours reached a village where an American traveller 
 had been robbed and wounded a few nights ago. The people 
 were everywhere engaged in their harvest. Turning to the 
 right into a fine plain we proceeded towards Birkeen. Went 
 to examine a small tower, and after some little difficulty I 
 reached it, and found it was only an angle of a wall, appa- 
 rently not very old, probably a stronghold during the early 
 days of the Moslem conquest. Many groups of reapers were 
 at work round, who looked at me with some curiosity. They 
 appeared to take me for a Turkish soldier, as my tarbush 
 and cloak were not unlike the costume of an irregular. One 
 man came up to me, from a group at a little distance, and 
 asked what I was searching for. 
 
 " I reached Birkeen about two, and put up at the priest's 
 house. It was a good room, about twenty-three feet square, 
 one half raised about four feet, with a good hard floor, the 
 rest serving for a stable. Here I found my travelling com- 
 panion Nasr asleep on a carpet, and after a simple meal of 
 bread, cucumbers, and a cup of coffee, I followed his example. 
 A little before sunset I got up, and a few people came. I 
 gave the schoolmaster a Bible that I had promised him when 
 I was here about a month ago, and spoke to him of the 
 great importance of following up the study of the Word. 
 I gave two Psalters to the priest for the children of the 
 school; he did not appear to be very thankful; in fact, 
 poor man, he cared very little about anything but his own 
 paltry gains. 
 
 " Two young men seemed interested, and expressed their 
 wish to have a Testament. I had only one out, and said I 
 did not know how to divide it, nor to which to give it. They 
 
THE ENVOY. 415 
 
 said, ' We are brothers, and live in one house, it will profit us 
 both.' I charged them to read it with prayer. 
 
 " June 6th. Arrived at Nazareth about nine. Found my 
 servant Stephen had arrived. Took up my quarters in 
 Georgis' house for the present. There appeared to be a 
 good many children in the school. Felt greatly the import- 
 ance of being here to witness amongst this people ; if I do 
 anything, it must be through the Lord alone. 
 
 " June 8th, (Sunday.) At eight o'clock we mustered for 
 service; about twenty persons present. Georgis read the 
 greater part of the service under my direction ; the people 
 seemed to take an interest in it. Spoke for a short time on 
 the gospel for the day. I felt much the want of language, 
 and understood what it was to preach with stammering lips 
 in a strange tongue ; my discourse must have been very 
 tiresome to the hearers. I begged them to come at noon and 
 read the Scriptures. Some children came, and I told them 
 the story of the Deluge. A few young men joined us. To 
 those I read and explained some of the service of the 
 Church. In the evening I read John iii. and explained it ; 
 several persons were present, and we concluded with prayer. 
 
 "June 11th. Spent the day as usual ; much talk with the 
 people in the morning. Rode out in the evening to see a 
 sick person. A small picture of a saint from the neighbouring 
 church was placed by his head in hope of curing him ; a 
 common delusion here. The woman came and wanted me 
 to put my hand upon his head and read over him ; I declined 
 doing so. She thought it would relieve his headache ; I 
 endeavoured to explain the superstition. 
 
 " Rode over the hill to the west j fine view of Carmel, the 
 
416 THE ENVOY. 
 
 sea, Plain of Esdraelon, Mounts of Manasseh and Samaria. 
 Here, over these hills, the youthful Jesus strayed. How 
 wonderful that I should be permitted here to be the witness 
 for truth ! How dark the spiritual condition, how ignorant, 
 selfish, worldly, and superstitious, the people ! Stopped some 
 time in a little grove of trees, and prayed earnestly for the 
 Spirit of the Lord to guide me, and to bless the people. 
 
 "June 12th. The sheik of the Greeks called in the 
 morning ; his chief object seemed to be to get me to go to 
 the mutselim to get him to do justice from fear of the English. 
 I said I would not interfere in secular affairs, but would do 
 what I could to prevent injustice, and that I would go as a 
 matter of compliment. I then sent to inform the mutselim 
 that I would pay him a visit. He replied he was engaged, 
 but would let me know when he would be at leisure. 
 
 " Spoke to-day to some of the young men concerning the 
 gospel. They come every day to know the chapter for the 
 evening. "Went to see a brother of Aoudie's who was ill. 
 They had tied a gold coin of Constantino's to his wrist. I 
 sent him a quarter of a grain of opium, which eased his pain, 
 and made him sleep. In the evening he was well. 
 
 " Some persons from Acre called and spoke of the Pro- 
 testants there. The work is growing. 
 
 "June 13th. Had an interview with the Greeks who 
 wished to become Protestants.* 
 
 "June I4tth. Prepared for Sunday by writing a few notes 
 in Arabic. Paid the mutselim a visit, he having sent to say 
 he was at leisure to receive me. He seemed an intelligent 
 little man, and had been much busied in the apportionment 
 
 * See letter to Mr Venn. 
 
THE ENVOY. 41? 
 
 of the taxes. The system seems very bad, and very oppres- 
 sive, there being a fixed tribute levied on the district ; whether 
 the population or their means diminish or increase it is al- 
 ways the same. 
 
 " The Greeks wanted me to come to them again to-day, 
 but I could not, it being very fatiguing to be constantly 
 talking, also I had to prepare for Sunday. I asked them to 
 come to service. Walked out among the vineyards, and re- 
 turned by moonlight. ' How strange that I should be here in 
 the city of the Lord to preach !' was the thought upon my mind. 
 
 " June \8tfi. Started about two o'clock for Haifa. The 
 road lay along the beach all the way. Took up my quarters 
 at the house of a merchant there, a good-natured, inquiring 
 young man. He saw many of the superstitions of the Greek 
 Church. Here I met Michael Cawar, also a native of Nazareth, 
 one of the most interesting young men I have seen in the 
 country. He told me that he had for a long time adopted 
 Protestant views, but had never seen a Protestant missionary 
 till now. He is modest and gentle in manner, well rend in 
 Scripture, and very accurate in general in applying passages 
 and making inferences. I had a good deal of very interesting 
 conversation with him, after the fruitless controversies in 
 which I had recently been engaged. 
 
 "June 19th. Went on board two English vessels in the 
 harbour. The captain of one seemed a serious man. In 
 the other they were busy taking in cargo, so that I had no 
 opportunity of speaking to any good purpose. Had some 
 argument with the English Consul, Zensi. Michael ( 
 spoke very well to him. Dined with Michael Conversa- 
 tion on various topics, religious and general Before leav- 
 
 2D 
 
41 8 THE ENVOY. 
 
 ing, spoke to him of the necessity of building up, as well as 
 throwing down. Felt it would be well if a way were opened 
 for him to go to Malta." 
 
 Mr Bowen continued his daily journal throughout his stay 
 at Nazareth ; but as the work of each day very much resem- 
 bled that of the other, we shall content ourselves with extracts 
 from it. The position there was extremely harassing, as it 
 was soon evident that there was little real desire for truth 
 amongst the people, and it was difficult to act on account of 
 their cupidity and desire to be paid for becoming Protestants. 
 Some, too, would enrol their names as such without knowing 
 what Protestantism was, or consulting him, and then expect 
 him to get them out of the troubles they brought upon them- 
 selves. Much tact and wisdom were shewn by him in the 
 manner in which he proved himself ever ready to help and 
 sympathise with them, and at the same time determined not 
 to compromise his position as simply a teacher of gospel 
 truth, who, for Christ's sake, wished only to bring them to 
 its pure light ; and in a very wonderful manner did he suc- 
 ceed in securing their love and esteem, even when opposing 
 their avarice, and at the same time avoid exciting the sus- 
 picion or ill-will of the mutselim or governor of the town. 
 
 TO THE KEV. H. VENN. 
 
 "NAZARETH, June 30, 1851. 
 
 "MY DEAE ME VENN, I scarcely know whether it would 
 be better to adopt a narrative form, or give you a sketch of 
 my proceedings since our conference at Jerusalem, of which 
 I forwarded to you the particulars. I stayed about a fort- 
 
THE ENVOY. 419 
 
 night at Jerusalem after it was over, and then set out for 
 Nablous, where I spent a week with the Christians of that 
 place. The Protestant party has had some trial there of late. 
 The Greek patriarch has opened a school, which has been 
 made attractive by the introduction of benches and desks, 
 a step which a few years ago would have been distrusted or 
 feared, and which the Greeks have most likely adopted from 
 the English schools at Syra. Greek is taught there. The 
 Arabs are very fond of learning a language for the sake of 
 the thing, without calculating its advantage. 
 
 " To this school many of the children have been drawn off, 
 and great efforts have been made to induce the Protestant 
 party to give up that supported by the Bishop. Some of the 
 people have been bribed to espouse very strongly the opposi- 
 tion to the truth. A portion of the Protestants are very 
 anxious to separate. I had several opportunities of reading 
 and expounding scriptural truth with them, and made an 
 effort to preach on the Sunday to about twenty-five who 
 
 jiubled 
 
 " Leaving Nablous, I spent the first day at Berkeen, where 
 I saw the priest and a few of the people. Presented the 
 schoolmaster with a Bible I had promised him on a former 
 occasion, and gave away also two Testaments and three 
 Psalters. As far as I can judge, there was some prospect of 
 their being used. 
 
 "The following day I arrived here early, having started 
 before daylight to avoid the heat and flies in the Plain of 
 Esdraelon. We passed by a new route, going near Zereen, 
 probably Jezreel, and at a short distance from Salum, near 
 which John baptized, not far from a village no longer a city 
 
420 THE ENVOY. 
 
 called Nain, while Tabor rose on the right. Kiding up to 
 the town, I looked with peculiar feeling on the massive con- 
 vent, and thought sadly of its power and influence ; its eighteen 
 monks, Spanish and Italian, all anxious to oppose the truth. 
 Only two of them I believe can speak Arabic ; yet, humanly 
 speaking, their hostility is formidable, the weapons they use 
 being bribery, intimidation, and slander. 
 
 " The Protestant party is very small, and, I am sorry to 
 say, very ignorant. They have been induced to declare 
 themselves Protestants through the influence of their sheik, 
 or chief-man, who is properly described as a negative Pro- 
 testant. The foundation of his zeal lies in a quarrel with 
 the convent, whose interpreter he was. He is, however, 
 teachable and energetic two good qualities. Since coining 
 here I have had many opportunities of teaching, but it is 
 difficult to do anything systematically on account of the 
 irregular habits of the people, whom I cannot assemble for 
 instruction during the week. Several, however, come in 
 the evenings to family worship, which I conduct in the 
 sheik's house, where I am staying, not having yet suc- 
 ceeded in procuring one for myself. The second Sunday 
 after I was there about sixty persons were present at service. 
 Since then there have been only twenty-five or thirty adults. 
 At the evening service we have not more than ten or twelve, 
 it being the custom with many to go out to vineyards in the 
 afternoons, where they sleep at night. 
 
 " A few days after my arrival here I received a message 
 from some of the Greeks, desiring me to come to their quar- 
 ters. I found about thirty, who all said they wanted to 
 become Protestants, and wished me at once to enrol their 
 
THE ENVOY. 421 
 
 names. I told them to wait until we understood better 
 what they were about. I ascertained that they were dis- 
 satisfied with the amount of taxes assigned to them, consi- 
 dered themselves unjustly treated by their denomination, and 
 were 'determined to leave them. There was no Christian love 
 they said, but oppression and partiality. This I told them 
 was no cause for forsaking their old faith, but I should be 
 very glad if any of them wished to inquire into the doctrines 
 of the Bible. They agreed to what I said. Some said they 
 were acquainted with the doctrine of the Protestants, and 
 were very impatient at one young man who wanted to argue 
 in defence of the Greek Church. Of him as yet I have more 
 hope than of any of the others. After speaking a little I left 
 them, and was requested next day to meet them again. They 
 were very anxious to be received as Protestants. I made them 
 the same reply as before, but they said, 'We are in necessity; 
 to-morrow the tax is demanded, and we have no means to 
 pay/ I asked them how their becoming Protestants would 
 help them. They said, ' Will you not advance the money ? ' 
 ' I have no money for any such purpose. We do not want 
 men to sell their religion, but only desire them to know and 
 believe the pure gospel.' They said, ' The Latin Church used 
 to give money to those who would join them ; will not you 
 do the same ? ' I told them that our principle was quite 
 different. The whole affair shews that many of the people 
 retain their superstitions very slightly. And I may observe 
 that the taxes are oppressive in their amount and mode of 
 collection ; and especially so just now, as they are gathered 
 before the harvest is completed, and when money is short 
 with traders and cultivators ; so I have felt it advisable to 
 
422 THE ENVOY. 
 
 advance, in the way of a loan, about 15 for the Protestant 
 party, chiefly to let them know that we desire to help them 
 if we can consistently do so, as some of them are excessively 
 poor. The na.ture of the work here is controversial. We 
 have Papal errors, and still grosser superstitions and igno- 
 rance, to contend against, together with a meanness and 
 selfishness the combined result of oppression, false teach- 
 ing, and evil example in the civil and ecclesiastical rulers. 
 A more sad picture of man degraded by the minor social 
 vices is hardly to be found than in this place. One is con- 
 strained to put the old question, c Can any good come out of 
 Nazareth?' The truth, however, is that some good does 
 come out of it. I have met with two pleasing instances 
 one a man of Cana of Galilee, who has studied the Scriptures 
 with some attention, and is earnestly seeking to follow the 
 gospel ; another, a young man, a native of this town, now at 
 Haifa, a small port under Carmel, who has attained to a very 
 intelligent knowledge of Scripture by diligent study. He 
 was from the first a thinking man, and was driven to in- 
 fidelity by the absurd superstitions of the Greek Church. 
 The books of the Malta press that were freely given away 
 fell in his way. He admitted that he saw some sense in 
 them, and was induced to study the Scripture. He is of 
 considerable talent, of respectable family, has endured much 
 persecution, and is, as far as I can judge on a short acquaint- 
 ance, one of the most interesting characters I have met with. 
 I should be thankful if his heart were directed, and the way 
 opened for his becoming an evangelical teacher. I trust to 
 visit him again soon. I feel at present very greatly the im- 
 portance of a native agency ; it would be very useful ; nor 
 
THE ENVOY. 423 
 
 can I leave this place without a teacher. The Protestant 
 movement opens an important door, and I feel that it would 
 be very desirable to build a church. Many would be induced 
 to come, and some might be moved to stay. 300 would be 
 sufficient, and a site could be easily obtained. We have a 
 Protestant Church at Jerusalem, and I trust soon God will 
 give another at Nazareth. There are some young men here, 
 of whom I hope well, who come to me for instruction, but 
 are as yet very ignorant. One of them told me that a few 
 years ago the Greek patriarch was here, and the church was 
 crowded. The walls perspired ; the people rubbed their heads, 
 faces, and bosoms with the moisture, and said it was the Holy 
 Ghost who had descended upon them. I could not convince 
 him to the contrary, until I shewed him breath condensed on 
 a cold slate. The spiritual nature of Christianity, the power 
 and work of the Holy Spirit, are subjects they have no idea 
 of. 
 
 " On Trinity Sunday I remembered that a labourer was 
 set apart for this field, and prayed that the Lord might bless 
 his labours. I have not heard when he will arrive. He 
 would have the opportunity of learning Arabic quickly, if he 
 were here under the auspices of a native teacher, while his 
 being entirely precluded from speaking English would be of 
 great advantage to him. However, his location will depend, 
 I presume, on Bishop Gobat. My plan is to remain here 
 about six weeks more, and then I purpose visiting Beyrout, 
 and returning to Jerusalem on my way home, if nothing 
 occurs to prevent or to hasten me. 
 
 " There is an immensity of work to be done in the world, 
 and who is to do it ? Dr Crawford kindly offers me the 
 
424 THE ENVOY. 
 
 Professorship of Theology at Malta; this I have declined. 
 . . . . Yours very faithfully, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 But let us return to the journal : 
 
 "July loth. Rode out this morning with Mr Marsh's 
 party.* Leaving them, I turned up to a village where there 
 were some remains of an ancient structure, used as a Chris- 
 tian Church ; the architecture was plain and the masonry 
 very thick. There was a picture of a patriarch in it. The 
 people seemed surprised at my knowing Arabic and Greek, 
 as I explained the title of the picture, to them a mystery. 
 I afterwards went to the priest's house, and found he had an 
 Arabic Bible of English printing, which had evidently been 
 in his possession for some years. He did not seem, how- 
 ever, to have made much use of it. Ascertaining that I had 
 come from Nazareth, he guessed that I was a Protestant, as 
 I was staying at the house of Georgis Yacoub. He asked 
 me many questions. ' Do you believe in Christ ? Has He 
 two natures, and two wills ? ' I satisfied him on these points, 
 and in general terms on the sacraments. c Did we baptize ? ' 
 I told him we obeyed Christ's command. He and two or 
 three others seemed satisfied with my account of our faith. 
 The priest also asked me the meaning of Hallelujah. I ex- 
 plained it. Afterward something was said about the differ- 
 ences of the Churches. I told them that the differences in 
 their country arose from their traditions, and argued that 
 it would be better to take the Scripture as the rule of faith, 
 a suggestion in which they all agreed. 
 
 * Mr Marsh, the American ambassador at the Porte, was spending a 
 short time at Nazareth with Mrs Marsh and some friends. 
 
THE ENVOY. 425 
 
 "July ]8th. Elias Sephouri came and breakfasted with 
 me. I afterwards went to the house of Yacoub Ferah to see 
 Elias Ferah, who was ill. A Greek priest came and saluted 
 me civilly, taking his seat beside me ; his name was Houri 
 Ibrahim. I continued my discussion with Elias, after he 
 came in, on the invocation of saints. The priest did not 
 take any part in it. I afterwards turned to him and alluded 
 to our present antagonistic position, and said we ought to 
 agree to carry on war in love, seeking to correct each other's 
 errors. Presently the sheik of the Greeks came in. I 
 charged him with the unjust treatment of Ferah el Houri, 
 which he denied, and at the same time persisted in saying 
 that the taxes were rightly demanded of him. I warned him 
 of the wickt-d ness and hopelessness of religious persecution. 
 
 "Rode afterwards to Raino, a fine village about three 
 miles off. Elias Sephouri had said that the people here 
 wanted a school We alighted at the house of Hanna Ib- 
 rahim, a Christian sheik, a fine-looking old man. Several 
 people came ; we talked to them about the necessity of , 
 Christian consistency. They all acknowledged that the 
 Christians were very corrupt no one kept the command- 
 ments of God. The old man read some part of the Epistle 
 of St Peter, which Michael had put into his hands. AVe 
 ascertained that the priests of the village were sulking, and 
 had shut up the church because the people would not pay 
 their taxes for them. Their flock did not seem much dis- 
 tressed about it. The thing is ridiculous, but at the same 
 time it is very sad that there should be such ignorance, tem- 
 per, and trifling in Divine things. 
 
 "July 19^. Mr Marsh and party left. Miss P 
 
426 THE ENVOY. 
 
 said that some of the people had told the dragoman that if 
 I did not go away I should be killed, for that Mussulmans 
 and Christians were angry at my being here. This is ab- 
 surd, but it shews the temper of the people. Fear alone re- 
 strains them from the worst of crimes. I fancy I shall have 
 to remain longer, to shew that I am not afraid of them." 
 
 Notwithstanding this warning, the daily discussions and 
 exhortations were continued, with diligent visiting of the 
 sick. The attendance at the services was fluctuating, and 
 some of the people were drawn away by the fear of persecu- 
 tion, while the discovery that no money was offered to the 
 would-be Protestants deterred others. In the meanwhile, Mr 
 Bowen was called upon to act in another character as the 
 counsellor and helper of his American friends. 
 
 "July 27th Kept quiet this morning for the sake of 
 preaching. Aoudie Ferah came for a time. We talked on 
 the interpretation of a passage in the Arabic version of Jere- 
 miah, ' No strength like theirs.' Here their strength is not 
 just.* He thought it was a prophecy of the power of the 
 Moslems, as no power was equal to theirs. I do not know 
 that he credited my statement to the contrary. -The Chris- 
 tians of this country find it hard to believe that the Christian 
 States have more power than the Moslems, and yet leave 
 their brethren to be oppressed by them. 
 
 " About three o'clock a message arrived from Mr Marsh, 
 saying that he had not advanced further than Migdol, and 
 
 * This would seem to imply that " strength " is not a right translation 
 in the Arabic version. 
 
THE ENVOY. 427 
 
 that Mrs Marsh had been suffering several days from severe 
 fever. They had sent for the doctor from the convent, but 
 could not tell if he would come. 
 
 " I determined to leave immediately to see what could be 
 done for them. Started at 3.30 with my servant Stephen. 
 Delayed a short time at Kepher Cana to get a guide, but 
 without success, and went on without one. At sunset, we 
 reached a place whence we could see the valley to Migdol 
 clearly before us ; it is a very narrow ravine, the bed of a 
 small stream. On each side are steep hills, crowned by lofty 
 precipices, with caverns in their sides, once the strongholds 
 of rebellious Jews, or the resort of robbers. It was dark as 
 we entered the valley, and we stumbled over the pebbles, 
 and made our way groping through the bushes, sometimes 
 getting to what appeared an impassable place, and then 
 stumbling on the track again. At length we got out of the 
 valley, and approaching the lake, made our way through the 
 bushes to the tents. 
 
 " A monk, who knew a little of medicine, came also in the 
 night, and his remedies seemed to produce a good effect." 
 
 One of the invalids in those tents in the valley has 
 kindly sent an account of their intercourse with Mr Bowen 
 on this occasion ; and as the letter speaks of other times, we 
 shall give part of it in this place, reserving the remainder for 
 a future period of his life : 
 
 " Our first acquaintance with Dr Bowen was in July 1851. 
 His name and character were already familiar to us through 
 the American missionaries, and other Western residents in 
 
428 THE ENVOY. 
 
 the East, who often spoke of him, and always with the utmost 
 affection and respect. His first visit to us was at the Latin 
 Convent in Nazareth, where we were detained by the severe 
 illness of one of our travelling party. The manly simplicity 
 of his manners, his quiet earnestness, and his ready sympathy 
 impressed us very strongly, and every successive interview, 
 while we were there, increased the confidence and esteem 
 which he had at first inspired. Some time later, we had 
 other and more trying opportunities of learning the worth 
 of our new friend. In the latter part of July, we were on 
 the shore of the Sea of Galilee with five of our party, in- 
 cluding servants, dangerously ill of Syrian fever, and, of 
 course, quite unable to proceed further. Messengers were 
 sent back to the Convent at Nazareth for medical aid, but 
 the skilful Franciscan, who had previously cared for us, had 
 already gone in quite another direction to the relief of other 
 travellers in distress like ourselves. Our situation was be- 
 coming more and more critical every hour. Numbers of 
 natives, from the eastern shores of the lake, were gathering 
 round us with threatening demonstrations, and, much as we 
 needed assistance, we dared not send away any of the few 
 trusty servants that remained to us. Those only who have 
 been in like circumstances can imagine our feelings when 
 our excellent friend came one evening most unexpectedly to 
 our aid ; and those only who have had the happiness of 
 knowing him can really understand the value of his pre- 
 sence at such a moment. He saw at a glance the difficul- 
 ties of our position, and, with all that prompt decision and 
 quiet energy for which he was so remarkable, instantly set 
 to work to remedy them. His knowledge of the diseases of 
 
THE ENVOY. 429 
 
 the country was such that he was a safe adviser for our 
 fever patients, and he had not forgotten to bring with him 
 everything that was most necessary for them. He had also 
 taken care, before leaving Nazareth, to get a promise that 
 our medical friend of the Convent should come to us at the 
 earliest moment possible for his return. His perfect acquaint- 
 ance with the localities of that region made him decide to 
 remove us, if possible, to some more elevated and healthy 
 point; and he spent the whole night in preparing litters, 
 being obliged, from the unskilfulness of the Arabs, to do the 
 work almost entirely with his own hands. 
 
 " His power over the wild tribes, who were thronging 
 about us, was astonishing. Without raising his voice in the 
 least above its ordinary firm and gentle tone, he was obeyed 
 by them in everything with cheerful readiness, as one whose 
 right to command could not be questioned. It would be 
 very grateful to me to sketch more in detail the entire self- 
 sacrifice with which he devoted himself to us for the next 
 ten days, the admirable judgment shewn by him on every 
 emergency, his care never to impose the least unnecessary 
 labour upon overworked servants, his words of comfort to 
 the suffering, as free from cold formalism as from unmean- 
 ing, stereotyped phraseology ; but I know that, in the life 
 of a man who devoted himself so nobly to the widest and 
 lii-lit-st human interests, little space can be afforded for the 
 record of kindnesses to individuals. It is enough to say, that 
 we found in Mr Bowen the happiest exemplification of all 
 those Christian virtues which, in the early days of our reli- 
 gion, marked the men ' of whom the world was not worthy/ 
 One circumstance, however, I may mention, which shews how 
 
430 THE ENVOY. 
 
 entirely every prejudice of sect gave way before the example 
 of his daily life and his own broad charity. It was quite 
 natural, from his position there, that he should be regarded 
 with much distrust by the Eoman Catholics of Nazareth ; 
 but before the good Father Joachim had been with us two 
 days, Mr Bowen had completely won his confidence, and he 
 often afterwards spoke to us of him with warm admiration. 
 It was a pleasant thing to see the old Spanish monk and the 
 English Protestant clergyman sitting at the same table day 
 after day, and saying grace in turn, brothers whose Chris- 
 tian love was strong enough to make them lay aside all 
 questions of heresy on the one hand, or of superstition on 
 the other. - After taking us on to Saf et, where we had much 
 better air, and more comforts, Mr Bowen remained with us, 
 relieving us from every care, till we were joined by the Ame- 
 rican missionaries, when he returned to his duties at Naza- 
 reth. We had, however, the happiness of seeing him once 
 more before our final departure from Syria ; he met us at 
 Abeih a few days before we embarked for Constantinople, 
 through his generous interference, a still unbroken party; 
 nor did his thoughtful kindness cease, till we were fairly on 
 board the steamer. At this time, though not really ill, he 
 was suffering a good deal from fever, and, as he spared him- 
 self in no way, we much feared he would soon break down. 
 But his Master had more work for him ; and we, too, were 
 to have the great pleasure of seeing him in his own rectory 
 at Orton Longueville." 
 
 Not long after his return to his solitary post at Nazareth, 
 after leaving his friends in safety at Safet, Mr Bowen made 
 
THE ENVOY. 431 
 
 a fresh tour through the neighbouring districts, visiting Tyre 
 and Acre, at which latter place he made acquaintance with 
 one or two who were desiring to forsake their superstitions 
 for the pure light of the gospel. Haifa and Michael Cawar 
 were also visited again, and Mr Bowen was much pleased to 
 see the progress of Michael's mind in the knowledge of the 
 Scriptures, and the power of understanding them. 
 
 In the meantime a missionary had arrived in Palestine, to 
 take charge of the congregation at Nazareth, and Mr Bowen 
 only returned there to make preparations for his final de- 
 parture. 
 
 "September 1st Kose early. After sending off the lug- 
 gage, called on Georgis. He said that if there had been any 
 fault in him, he hoped I would forgive it, and that he wished 
 to give up the place of sheik of the Protestants. I told him 
 I was very sorry for some of the things I had seen in him 
 and heard of him, and that he ought also to repent of the 
 sins he had committed in forming the Protestant sect. He 
 was inclined to defend himself. Poor man 1 I feel sorry for 
 him ; he has been trained in ignorance and darkness, and 
 has made the profession of a purer faith the means of attain- 
 ing worldly ends, which he now finds full of trouble and 
 without profit. 
 
 "Went down to the house of Legely and others, to bid 
 them farewell, and rode down the rocky road to the Plain of 
 Esdraelon. Very much of this is wild and waste. A large 
 portion belongs to the people of Nazareth, who cultivate but 
 little of the rich tract that is assigned to their village. It 
 occurred to me that much good might be done by some 
 
432 THE ENVOY. 
 
 one advancing money to purchase teams and pay the corn- 
 tax/' 
 
 This plan was afterwards carried out. The following letter 
 will complete the account of Nazareth and his departure from 
 the Holy Land : 
 
 TO THE KEV. H. VENN. 
 
 "JAFFA, September 10th, 1851. 
 
 ". . . . To return to Nazareth. In some respects things 
 have appeared in a still more unfavourable light, though, on 
 the other hand, there are not wanting many grounds of en- 
 couragement. It became more and more apparent that party 
 spirit and the hope of a bribe had been the motive with the 
 people who had called themselves Protestants. They have 
 two reasons for this expectation their priests tell them that 
 we give money ; and the Latins always used to do so, under 
 the name of a loan or help, to those who joined them from 
 the Oriental Churches. Thirty heads of families offered to 
 become Protestant in a body, if I would only lend them, 
 without interest, 20 or 30 ; and it was long before they 
 could believe that I would not do it. They professed to be 
 willing to learn, and I met several of them three or four 
 times to speak to them of the gospel ; but on being finally 
 convinced that there was no money to be had, they all with- 
 drew. Another party of several families made overtures to 
 me through a Mussulman sheik, stating that they were ready 
 to become Protestants, on condition that I would lend them 
 a sum of money, about 90, without interest ; and they 
 would all bind themselves by a bond to forfeit each 2000 
 
THE ENVOY. 433 
 
 piastres to the mosque if they turned back again. I returned 
 for answer, that such a transaction would be a sin in them 
 and in me. My Mussulman friend was surprised I did not 
 embrace so capital a bargain, admitted they were wrong, but 
 added that if I got them to come to me they would after- 
 wards learn better. These people were afraid to shew them- 
 selves openly, partly on account of the persecution raised 
 against any one suspected of joining the Protestants. 
 
 " In the month of July the annual tribute was collected. 
 This is rather an oppressive tax in its amount, and is appor- 
 tioned to individuals, by a sort of common consent amongst 
 the sheiks and their respective communities. A man who 
 earns only two or three piastres a-day has often to pay one 
 hundred piastres in this way of direct taxes. The Protestants 
 had not yet been rated separately, and great efforts were 
 made by the Koman Catholics and Greeks to throw an un- 
 just amount on those who had declared themselves Protest- 
 or were suspected of being so. Some, indeed, were 
 told that they would have to pay double ; if they remained 
 in their communities, it should not be raised. After a good 
 deal of squabbling, matters were finally arranged, and, with 
 two or three exceptions, the parties who had declared them- 
 selves Protestants did not suffer much injustice. One young 
 man was seized and taken before the Governor, beaten and 
 imprisoned ; he was not legally bound to pay in Nazareth. 
 Two others, who had written their names as Protestants with 
 the Governor without consulting me, were told that if they 
 did not return, they would have their taxes doubled : they 
 were frightened, and withdrew. But, notwithstanding all 
 
 this, there is much ground for encouragement : some have 
 
 2 
 
 
434 THE ENVOY. 
 
 listened with astonishment to the doctrines of the gospel, 
 and others, who are not called Protestants, have been led to 
 -search the Scriptures, and are gaming light on the subject 
 of the gospel. 
 
 "After a time I was joined by Michael Marcus, the 
 Bishop's Scripture-reader, and was greatly helped by him. 
 I remained for nearly two months and a half at Nazareth, 
 and conducted service regularly every Sunday ; but many 
 who had previously attended from curiosity gave up coming, 
 while others were kept away by the fear of persecution, 
 Afterwards I took a journey to Beyrout through the Lebanon. 
 I did not find much interest on the way, travelling hastily. 
 I stayed three days there, and then returned, via Tyre, Acre, 
 Haifa, to Nazareth, where I stayed three days, and preached 
 a farewell sermon. 
 
 "August 31, I left. Spent one day at Nablous, where 
 the people were disappointed that I could not stay a few 
 days with them. They seem, on the whole, to be going on 
 well ; they have an earnestness in searching the Scriptures 
 which is not known in Nazareth. I reached Jerusalem the 
 same day as Mr Klein.* On Sunday I had an Arabic ser- 
 vice at the house of Michael Marcus. I held it at the hour 
 of the German service in the church. There were twelve or 
 thirteen attentive hearers present. Hurrying on from Jeru- 
 salem to catch the monthly steamer, I was detained at Jaffa 
 until the 12th, and sail for Smyrna to-day, (September 16th.) 
 
 " I hope to arrive in England early in December, intend- 
 ing to spend ten or fourteen days in Malta. 
 
 * Mr Klein was the missionary appointed to take his place at Naza- 
 reth. 
 
THE ENVOY. 435 
 
 " Trusting, through the goodness of God, to meet you ere 
 long, I remain yours very faithfully in Christ, 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 Mr Gribble, who has followed the footsteps of his friend 
 through some parts of the East, has kindly sent us some 
 information on the present condition of missions in that 
 country in a letter dated 
 
 " BRITISH EMBASSY, PERA, March 12, 1862. 
 
 " MY DEAR FRIEND, After a hard day's work in jail, 
 hospital, and other duties, I sit down in my study, a charming 
 room, whence I overlook the hills of Asia Minor, with a 
 strip of the Bosphorus westward, the Sea of Marmora, 
 Olympus, Stamboul and its mosques southward, and a suc- 
 cession of gentle slopes variously lighted under a capri- 
 cious sky, and address myself to the memoir of my friend. 
 
 " I am aware that what I say will satisfy no party. My 
 conception of your brother's mind and character is, I believe, 
 of the true Church spirit, and regarding him in this compre- 
 hensive view, he will, I trust, stand out, as he should really 
 appear, too low for the High Church, too high for the Low 
 Church, too broad for either, and yet not broad enough for 
 some, but combining what is great and estimable of all 
 three. 
 
 " I have deeply studied his Eastern journals, and, through- 
 out, I am struck with the catholicity of his spirit. It was 
 this which made him admire and sympathise with Mr 
 Hildner's interesting school at Syra ; and I am glad that I 
 can add, that the system pursued there of instructing without 
 
436 THE ENVOY. 
 
 proselytising has been most successful, the schools have flour- 
 ished, and the attendance of the children greatly increased. 
 
 " It is on this principle, but on a more advanced system of 
 education, that the Eev. Mr Hill, the British chaplain at 
 Athens, conducts his schools. Like Mr Hildner, he modestly 
 offers the advantages he possesses to those who are willing to 
 embrace them. He raises no violent questions about picture- 
 worship and other 'lamentable errors,' but quietly and ra- 
 tionally instructs the young in true wisdom. He is on 
 friendly terms with the Greek Primate ; he receives him at 
 his house, and returns his visits ; and what are the results ? 
 In the case of Syra, hundreds, I believe thousands,' of children 
 have gone forth from Mr Hildner's schools ; and in Athens 
 thousands (I am told they may be multiplied by ten) have 
 left Mr Hill's, imbued with sound Christian knowledge ; 
 and of these many have entered, and are now occupying, high 
 stations in society. 
 
 " This mode of action reminds me of a facetious but happy 
 remark of my dear friend Mr Carus, who, in one of his ad- 
 dresses to the young men in his rooms at Trinity, said, ' You 
 are directed by St Paul to " let your light shine/' but it does 
 not therefore follow that you are to thrust it into people's 
 faces.' 
 
 " Leaving Greece, I turn to another scene. 
 
 " The Jaffa gate is nearly midway in the eastern wall of 
 Jerusalem. On entering it, you pass by the tower of Hip- 
 picus, on the right, about ninety yards from the gate ; and a 
 few yards lower down on the left, overlooked by the Latin 
 Patriarchate, and near the pool of Hezekiah, is the residence 
 of Bishop Gobat ; about a thousand yards from which, in a 
 
THE ENVOY. 437 
 
 south- westerly direction, and on more elevated ground, stands 
 the English church. 
 
 " Let us step into Bishop Gobat's house, where John Bowen 
 spent the evening of May 20, 1849, and learn how those good 
 men passed the time discoursing on the mercies of the Lord, 
 and how they knew Him to be a God that answereth prayer. 
 (See journal, May 20, 1849.) A fact is there mentioned on 
 which I take the liberty of making some comments, as an 
 encouragement to those who believe in such a thing as God 
 answering prayer. Should any of the ' Essayists/ whose work 
 has provoked so much opposition in some quarters and ad- 
 miration in others, be induced to glance over these pages ; 
 or should this narrative be seen by any of their readers, who 
 may be influenced by the bold denial from some authors, and 
 the sceptical questionings from others, of the truth of an 
 immediate or intermediate interposition of Divine power in 
 its actings upon mind and matter, whether in those events 
 which, from their singularity, we call miracles, or in those 
 of a more ordinaiy character which are usually termed 
 answers to prayer, then, for their sake, I beg leave to 
 make a few remarks. 
 
 " With a just tribute of respect to freedom of inquiry, and 
 to the critical analysis which has been brought to bear upon 
 the Scriptures, I submit, that in the denial of, or reluctance 
 to believe in the immediate action of eternal mind and 
 almighty power upon human minds and material nature, one 
 very simple and undeniable fact has, from its being ignored, 
 escaped the science of the sceptics The action of mind upon 
 mind and matter. We will grant them what they demand 
 in their assertion of the invariability of the laws which 
 
438 THE ENVOY. 
 
 regulate matter, that is, so far as they are known. We need 
 not, indeed, be reminded that the laws which govern the 
 material action of so-called natural agents would operate ever 
 and anon in necessary order in a mindless world in any 
 part of creation where there is no intervention of mental 
 power ; but we must remind them of the immense and yet 
 undiscovered sway of mind over matter. Is it in fact 
 necessary to remind men of learning that mind, yes, and 
 human mind, has been superinduced to control and divert, to 
 interrupt and dislocate, to reform and reorganise matter and 
 its laws in a thousand instances. And if it be so, if human 
 intelligence, as in chemistry, electricity, magnetism, not to 
 mention the most common occurrences which take place in 
 ordinary life, can effect incessant and startling changes in 
 things which, if not interfered with by mind, would have 
 been in an altered condition or in a state of repose, changes, 
 too, in events which, but for mind, would not have been, 
 whence comes the reluctance to admit, or, alas ! the readiness 
 to deny, that a higher order of mind, a Divine mind, a Deo- 
 incarnate mind, may fetch down from the grand Author of 
 all mind and of all nature a power, or that He Himself shall 
 exert an influence, and call into active operation laws and 
 powers, (of which we dream not,) to act upon our moral 
 and physical being, and so produce effects which, when first 
 developed, we call miracles, and when afterwards exhibited 
 under less startling appearances, we call the actings of God's 
 providence and power in answer to prayer ? 
 
 " To my mind this argument is unanswerable, not only in 
 favour of the possibility, but of the probability of miracles, in 
 certain cases, and for certain important ends. And its force 
 
THE ENVOY. 439 
 
 remains the same, and equally applies to the doctrine of 
 prayer-answers, especially in those alleged numerous instances 
 in which no violence is done to what we suppose to be the 
 known laws of nature ; instances in winch the combination 
 of circumstances is concurrent with the course of human 
 action, but yet being unusual, and in close connexion with 
 prayer, may, though accountable without the supposed neces- 
 sity of Divine intervention, be perfectly reconcilable with, and 
 perhaps more easily explained by the admission that the 
 Divine mind has been in direct action upon the human mind. 
 "If, therefore, the antecedent objections to miracles and 
 prayer-answers, for they are of the same order but more 
 or less, in most cases, varying in degree, if the asserted 
 impossibility of such things be satisfactorily met by the reply 
 that ;i belief in their possibility is but a fuller development 
 of that faith which is in daily action, it follows, that the credi- 
 bility we attach to them is simply a question of evidence and 
 testimony, and the learned Christian would that we could say 
 every learned Christian ! will be satisfied with the evidence 
 we already possess in the writings handed down to us by the 
 Church, and in profane literature ; while if, with the advan- 
 tage of being a learned man he is also a devout man, he will 
 kmw enou-li of that holy Being AYliom he adores to believe 
 that with God all things are possible, and he will remember 
 instances enough of his prayers having been answ< 
 
 After noticing Mr Bowen's various travels, Mr G. remarks, 
 speaking of Hashbeya : 
 
 " Here he became acquainted with a remarkable and dis- 
 tinguished body of missionaries, whose labours in Oriental 
 
440 THE ENVOY. 
 
 learning do them great honour, whose exertions among the 
 nations, whether in Syria, &c., have produced great results, 
 but whose mode of operation, in reference to the Eastern 
 Churches, and consequently in relation to the great body of 
 the visible Church, is a problem not yet solved. Your brother 
 throughout bears honourable testimony to their Christian 
 character, and everywhere he is affectionately remembered 
 by them. 
 
 " Twelve years have passed since this Eastern journal was 
 written, and if your brother were now a living beholder of 
 the course of events, he would, notwithstanding his warm 
 admiration of these good men, be of opinion, that their 
 republican form of church-government is entirely opposed to 
 the Oriental mind ; while its very nude and bald worship, 
 though at first striking from its simplicity, is uncongenial 
 with Eastern habits. 
 
 " Already some of the Armenian Protestants complain of 
 the rigorous discipline which forbids them the festivals and 
 sacred seasons generally observed in the Eeformed Churches: 
 this grievance is not of yesterday. The church in Pera, which 
 owes its separate existence to the American missionaries, have 
 declared themselves independent of their teachers. They jus- 
 tify their separation on these grounds : 
 
 " ' 1st, The missionaries/ they say, ' assume an undue 
 authority over us, and while pronouncing us free, they fetter 
 our action by withholding the supplies with which they are 
 furnished from America and England, in all cases where our 
 selection of pastors may not receive their approval. They 
 are, therefore, bishops over us, while professing a dislike of 
 Episcopacy. 
 
THE ENVOY. 441 
 
 " ' 2d, In leaving our mother Church, we were influenced 
 by the motive to worship God in truth and spirit, and hence 
 we threw off the superstitious practices which have so long, 
 and do still corrupt the Church; but we did not contem- 
 plate the rejection of church-order, nor of those observances 
 common to the Church of Christ in all ages, and now recog- 
 nised by the principal Reformed Churches. 
 
 " ' 3d, Because we have expressed our desire to be under 
 some orthodox ecclesiastical system, and to be allowed to 
 identify ourselves in practice with the Reformed Churches 
 which commemorate the great events of our Lord's history 
 in the festivals and solemn seasons of the Church, we are 
 charged with apostatising from the truth, and of returning 
 to the corrupt usages of the mother Church. 
 
 " ' 4th, Finding ourselves thus led further than we in- 
 tended from the practice of the Church of Christ, yet 
 resolved not to return to the mother Church while unre- 
 formed, we find ourselves in an isolated condition ; for, on 
 the one hand, the reforming party in the mother Church has 
 been checked by the apparent extremes to which we, the 
 seceders, have gone, and has no sympathy with us ; so, on 
 the other hand, as we cannot feel satisfied with that loose 
 organisation and abnegation of the ordinary customs of 
 Christ's Church which obtains among the missionaries, we 
 are therefore deprived of the confidence and support of those 
 teachers who first induced us to leave the Church." 
 
 " On the other hand, the missionaries reply : ' We did 
 not originally commence our mission in the East with a view 
 to detach you or any others from the mother Church. We 
 never contemplated the formation of any ecclesiastical system : 
 
442 THE ENVOY. 
 
 our design was to instruct and to evangelise. We offered our 
 services to Greeks and Armenians ; we formed schools with 
 the approbation of those Churches ; we gave them in their 
 own language, a literature which was calculated to enrich 
 them in scriptural, scientific, and practical knowledge. Jeal- 
 ousy, however, and suspicion of our motives arose ; we were 
 pounced upon ; and those of either Church who felt the 
 advantage of our instruction, were first threatened, and then 
 persecuted. Our scholars were extruded from their churches, 
 and thus untoward circumstances compelled us to consider 
 and devise what at first we never intended viz., the forma- 
 tion of Protestant congregations on those principles which 
 in our conscience, and, according to our apprehension of 
 Divine truth, we deemed to be most approximate to the 
 revealed mind of God. Having gone thus far, we could not 
 consent to any arrangement of the seceding congregations 
 upon principles which we considered erroneous. We are 
 Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Baptists ; and however we 
 might, for peace' sake, have merged our distinctive ideas 
 until separation ensued, yet when the question of a new 
 organisation arose, how could we proceed towards it except 
 on our own principles ? It is true we receive money from 
 America and England, but it is in trust, and with the under- 
 standing that we are to control and apply its expenditure in 
 the same way as before ; if, therefore, you are dissatisfied 
 with our plan of proceeding, and evince a desire to adopt 
 customs which we do not approve, we feel ourselves justified 
 in withholding from you any portion of the contributions 
 which come to us from our supporters in the United States, 
 and from the Turkish Aid Society in England/ 
 
THE ENVOY. 443 
 
 " Such, I believe, is a fair statement of the case on which 
 the American missionaries and some of their former prose- 
 lytes are at issue. I have not heard that the latter are 
 charged with any heresy, or denial of truths which relate to 
 the salvation of the soul and a holy life. So far from that 
 being the case, the missionaries have, in some instances, 
 borne testimony to the rectitude of their seceders, and the 
 latter do plainly declare and protest their faith in the Lord 
 Jesus, and in the doctrines of the gospel 
 
 " Now, this is a very sad affair, men of unimpeachable 
 lives, on the one hand, and their followers, against whom no 
 error of doctrine or conduct is alleged, cannot agree. 
 
 " Where lies the root of the mischief ? After making all 
 allowance for the pride of our sinful hearts, which, when we 
 have power, tempts us to abuse it, and which, when we are 
 under authority, urges us to resistance, my belief is that we 
 reach the radical cause when we affirm, that if these worthy 
 missionaries were as orthodox in their churchmanship as 
 they are in their creed and conduct, they would have found 
 themselves in a position less exposed to vexatious opposi- 
 tion, and better adapted to a conciliatory arrangement with 
 the chiefs of the Eastern Churches. 
 
 " In a country, and among a people where truths are 
 principally inculcated by illustration, the great facts of our 
 Lord's history must be communicated in such a manner 
 as the people, or the genius of the people, will permit. In 
 our own country, and especially now, when a refined and 
 quasi - spiritual scepticism ignores or denies the physical 
 reality of the Lord's works and presence, as they are de- 
 scribed in the Gospels, it is of great importance to associate 
 
444 THE ENVOY. 
 
 that physical reality with certain seasons, as the Church has 
 appointed. Here, in the East, to ignore or to repudiate such 
 observances is, in the apprehension of the people, to ignore 
 or repudiate the Lord himself. In the case of the mission- 
 aries there is not only an ignoring, but a deliberate and 
 conscientious rejection of those practices which the Christian 
 Church observes as embodiments of Christian history. Even 
 our ordinary customs in the English Church of consecrating 
 chapels and burial-grounds have been publicly denounced as 
 semblances of Popish superstition, and injurious to what is 
 termed ' simple Christianity.' 
 
 " And this denunciation is not factiously pronounced, but 
 from a conscientious persuasion that it is justly due. How 
 easily then we may imagine the result ! Is it not more 
 reasonable to suppose, that if there be a judicious present- 
 ment of the order and conduct of the Church, avoiding on 
 the one hand the puerile customs which antiquity never 
 knew, and which Scripture either directly or by evidence 
 forbids, and observing those lawful and edifying practices 
 which were done in the early Church, there will then be a 
 greater probability of success ? 
 
 "And if instead of ignoring these Eastern churches as 
 effete and corrupt, and hopelessly incurable, we regard them 
 as great and ancient communities, whose authority is of God, 
 and whose powers are ordained of God ; and so, without 
 compromising our own principles, or seeking to force on a 
 union as yet impracticable by reason of national habits, of 
 national relationship with the Mohammedan state, and of 
 some diversity of doctrine, we endeavour to cultivate friendly 
 relations with them ; and instead of rousing angry feelings, 
 
THE ENVOY. 445 
 
 and provoking strifes, and misery, and family splits, and 
 rending of hearts by detaching from them the members of 
 their community, we rather avail ourselves . of those advan- 
 tages we possess by modestly contributing a share of them 
 to those who will receive it ; if we do this on the principle 
 that we are to let our ' light shine before men ; ' if in this 
 spirit, and with the advantage and prestige given by Divine 
 Providence, whether to the Americans or ourselves as great 
 Christian nations, we treat these large communities, both in 
 their constituted authority and special individuality as we 
 would ourselves be treated, is it not more likely that we 
 should be permanently useful, than if we persist in this pas- 
 sionate determination to behave towards fellow- Christians as 
 if they were heathen men and publicans. 
 
 " If the aggressive principle be a wrong one, the Church 
 of England ought to take care that she is not committed to 
 it. We must, "however, observe the distinction between ag- 
 gressive action and those cases in which separation from an 
 Eastern Church has already taken place, and the seceders 
 after the secession have solicited admission into other com- 
 munities. Such were the circumstances of the Nablous 
 congregation. Some Protestants of that place applied to 
 Bishop Gobat for an English clergyman, and particularly 
 that Mr Bowen might come and form them into a church." 
 
CHAPTER VL 
 
 " I need not be nms'd if my life has been bearing 
 (As its summer and autumn move silently on) 
 The bloom and the fruit and the seed of its season 
 I shall still be remember'd by what I have done. 
 
 " I need not be miss'd if another succeed me, 
 
 To reap down those fields which in spring I have sown ; 
 He who plough'd and who sow'd is not miss'd by the reaper 
 He is only remember'd by what he has done. 
 
 "Not myself, but the truth that in life I have spoken, 
 Not myself, but the seed that in life I have sown, 
 Shall pass on to ages, all about me forgotten, 
 Save the truths I have spoken, the things I have done." 
 
 BONAR. 
 
MR BOWEN reached England in December, having paid a 
 short visit to his old friends the missionaries at Smyrna, and 
 spent a fortnight at Constantinople, where he again experi- 
 enced much kindness and attention, both from the English 
 and American ambassadors at the Sublime Porte. He also 
 spent a few days at Athens, and ten at Malta, in the Protest- 
 ant College, with which he was much pleased. 
 
 The Christmas of 1851 was the only one he ever passed 
 in his own house at Milton. That winter he gathered round 
 him all those of his own family who were within reach, with 
 many other friends. And those who on this occasion en- 
 joyed his frank and unassuming hospitality long looked back 
 to it as a bright season, when, in the full enjoyment of health 
 and strong manhood, he delighted every one with his anec- 
 dotes of Eastern travel, and the sunny cheerfulness he had 
 the happy art of diffusing around him. 
 
 A friend who first made his acquaintance at this time, 
 and who joined the large family circle on that Christmas- 
 day, has written the following account of his recollections 
 of the visit : 
 
 " It was just after his return from Mosul that Mr Bowen 
 2F 
 
450 THE KECTOR. 
 
 and I first met. I was much struck with his personal ap- 
 pearance, which no word in our language adequately ex- 
 presses. It was manly, and something more, and I honour 
 the French male, which conveys more nearly what I mean. 
 There was nothing rough mingled with his manliness, while 
 a singularly sweet and expressive smile indicated unmistak- 
 ably the tenderness and gentleness not unf requently associated 
 with physical strength. 
 
 "The prominent features of his moral character, which 
 half an hour's intercourse was enough to reveal, were perfect 
 simplicity and naturalness, and the entire absence of self- 
 consciousness. It was evident that he never thought about 
 himself, or of what others were thinking of him. But with 
 all his entire want of self-assertion, no one in his senses 
 would have dreamt of taking a liberty with him. He was 
 abundantly endowed with keen common - sense, sharpened 
 and exercised by extensive commerce with men ; and I am 
 sure he would have been a most unpromising subject for 
 deception ; a Pharisee or a horse-jockey would equally fail 
 in any attempt at humbug ; he would detect the spavin, and 
 expose the phylactery. He possessed that keen sense of, 
 and relish for, humour which is almost always present in 
 large characters. He told a story well, and enjoyed one 
 thoroughly. 
 
 "He was entirely free from those conventionalities of 
 phrase and manner which so often disfigure good and ex- 
 cellent men, and offend the taste of educated people. I do 
 not mean that he kept his calling out of sight, or shunned 
 religious subjects of conversation. Quite the contrary. The 
 most casual intercourse would tell that a clergyman was 
 
THE KECTOE. 451 
 
 speaking ; and wherever conversation began, it was sure 
 before long to involve those topics which were the habitual 
 occupation of his own mind. But his words flowed, they 
 were not pumped up, they were spoken out of the fulness 
 of the heart, because the matter was ever present with him, 
 and not because he thought that from him, as a clergyman, 
 we had a right to expect a little sermon. 
 
 " When we first met, all the world was talking of Nineveh 
 and Layard's discoveries. Mr Bowen had been on the spot, 
 had met Mr Layard there, and witnessed his excavations. 
 He poured into our gaping ears the stores of information he 
 had brought with him from the East ; but whether we dis- 
 cussed an Assyrian brick, a Ninevite cylinder, or an Arab 
 sheik, one always felt that his interest in these matters, lively 
 as it was, was subordinate to the motive which took him 
 from his home, the desire to make known the good news 
 of God. That was a very happy Christmas time. He was a 
 perfect host. There was such an obvious desire to make his 
 guests comfortable, without any fussing or undue straining 
 of effort. His qualities in this particular were tried on the 
 occasion, for the house and household were not thoroughly 
 organised, and queer little contretemps were occurring, which 
 would have worried a smaller man. They amused him, and 
 he made them the means of amusing others. 
 
 " I walked through Milton with him one day. His man- 
 ner to his poorer neighbours was very beautiful, and they 
 understood it, for every face lighted up with honest pleasure 
 at his hearty, simple questions. He did not assert his par- 
 sondom or his squiredom, but you would see that both were 
 recognised, while the people felt no necessity to put on a 
 
452 THE EECTOE. 
 
 solemn face for the divine, or an obsequious one for the 
 landlord. 
 
 " Our meetings after this were few and short. I have seen 
 him in very odd employments. Once an inundation had 
 occurred, and he was working like any navvie, covered with 
 mud. Part of the night had been employed in an expedi- 
 tion, with a lantern, to rescue some sheep that he thought in 
 danger. Once I found him with his backwoodsman's axe 
 felling trees, evidently in great enjoyment. On another oc- 
 casion his sense of agricultural proprieties was offended by 
 the lazy doings of some reapers, and he set to work himself 
 to shew them the way, I said these were odd employments, 
 but they never seemed incongruous, because he never had 
 anything to put off. 
 
 " Once we met after his elevation to the episcopate, when 
 he was my guest for two days. The lawn sleeves and the 
 apron left him the same simple, humble, manly creature that 
 they found him. He appeared quite unconscious of them, 
 with perhaps a little feeling of discomfort and gene when a 
 chance ' My Lord ' met his ear. 
 
 " He spoke of his future work with a clear sense of its 
 possible issue. He felt that he went with his life in his 
 hand, perfectly ready to lay it down if it were his Master's 
 will ; but he meant to incur no needless risks. There was 
 no rashness in his boldness, and, like the truly brave man, 
 he would be prudent. His work is now done, and he has 
 his reward." 
 
 We have anticipated the future for the sake of giving the 
 letter entire, and shall now return to that winter of 1851 and 
 
THE RECTOR. 453 
 
 1852 at Milton, when, still earnest to be doing his Master's 
 work, he undertook the service of a small chapel of ease, at 
 the extreme end of the parish of Carew, in which Milton is 
 situated. Here many crowded to hear him, and, at the same 
 time, he occupied himself in plans for the improvement of 
 his property and tenantry. It was not, however, a season of 
 uninterrupted happiness and prosperity ; for early in the 
 spring he was thrown from a dog-cart, while driving from 
 his sister's house to his own, and severely hurt his leg so 
 severely as to be compelled to lie by for some weeks. It 
 seemed strange that after having passed safely through so 
 many perils in his. far Eastern travels, he should meet with 
 an accident of this nature so near home. 
 
 Within a fortnight afterward, it pleased God to remove 
 his sister Ellin, after a short illness, on Good Friday 1852, 
 On this occasion he wrote to another sister : 
 
 "....' Blessed are the dead that die in the Lord,' and 
 
 such blessedness is dear Ellin's We have great cause 
 
 for thankfulness in the clear, glorious evidence we have of 
 our dear sister's acceptance in the Lord, and we must think 
 of her not as dead, but living. Our minds can follow the 
 spirit, with the eye of faith, to the presence of the Saviour, 
 and sympathise with the happy soul that even now joins in 
 the praises of Him who has overcome death and gives to 
 sinners eternal life. 
 
 " The time of Ellin's departure is associated with blessed 
 memories. She slept with Christ on the day we commemo- 
 rated His sacrifice ; to-day (Easter-day) we celebrate the 
 opened tomb and His glorious resurrection. We should 
 
454) THE RECTOR 
 
 rather rejoice that our sister is entered into life ; oh, may 
 we not hope that we are all tending to the same ! The Lord 
 was pleased to use her for a little while here, that she might 
 minister to the happiness, comforts, and wants of many; and 
 when He saw fit, He took her to Himself. Let us praise the 
 Lord for the inestimable gift of faith in the glorious gospel. 
 How blessed the state of those believers whose race is run ! 
 We sometimes think we want them ; but the Lord knows 
 what is best for them, as well as for us. Soon will our 
 task be done, our labour ended, sin entirely subdued and 
 gone, and Christ beheld in all His glory. The more we live 
 in anticipation and longing for this glorious change, the 
 better shall we discharge our relative duties upon earth, 
 because the less will our judgment be warped by worldly 
 motives." 
 
 The summer of this year was spent in the service of the 
 Church Missionary Society, in attending meetings and preach- 
 ing sermons, for the purpose of advocating its cause, in various 
 parts of England and Wales. In the autumn he took posses- 
 sion of the living of Orton Longueville, in Huntingdonshire, 
 to which he had been presented by the Marquis of Huntly, 
 to whom he had been introduced by Mr Layard. As the 
 population of his parish was small, he was still enabled to 
 devote much of his time to the home missionary work, while 
 he laboured diligently as a parish priest, and endeavoured in 
 every way to promote the welfare and improvement of those 
 who were placed under his care. A new schoolroom was 
 built, to which he contributed largely; a night-school for 
 the elder lads was opened, in which he often taught himself. 
 
THE EECTOB. 455 
 
 He visited the people frequently, often calling on them in 
 the long winter evenings, that he might have an opportunity 
 of intercourse with the men as well as the women. He also 
 gave lectures at several places for the young men's associa- 
 tions and mechanics' institutes, for the purpose of illustrating 
 Scripture truth from the manners, and customs, and present 
 condition of those Bible lands through which he had travelled. 
 He arranged his household on a scale much within his 
 means, spending more than two-thirds of his income on 
 others and in charity. So well known was his liberality, 
 that there were innumerable appeals made to him from all 
 quarters ; and though he was too discerning to be easily im- 
 posed on, he could not resist giving assistance even to those 
 who he knew did not quite deserve it. This was, indeed, one 
 of his greatest weaknesses, in defence of which he was wont 
 to say, that as there were some real cases of distress, he could 
 not bear to be indifferent to the wants and sufferings of any. 
 No beggar ever came to his house without having his story 
 well sifted, and being well cross-examined. The assumed 
 sailor was often sorely puzzled by being requested to box 
 the compass, or name the ropes and sails of a ship ; nor did 
 they ever depart without some real assistance, accompanied 
 with good advice, earnestly and affectionately given, both 
 for their temporal and spiritual welfare. God only knows 
 whether there may not now be some in heaven who have 
 cause to bless him for the earnest, loving words he spoke to 
 them, for Christ's sake, at his own door. We could not, for 
 the sake of the living, tell of the large assistance he gave. 
 Some he entirely maintained ; comforts which he would have 
 denied himself, he secured to others ; and we doubt not that 
 
456 THE EECTOK. 
 
 only a few of these deeds are known to us, for he took such 
 care to conceal them that truly with him his left hand knew 
 not what his right hand did. 
 
 He remained at Orton Longueville about two years ; but 
 as the daily life of a minister of a small country parish must 
 be very monotonous, it will be sufficient to say of this time, 
 that he gained the respect and love of all who knew him, 
 from the highest to the lowest rank. 
 
 Meanwhile, those who had become acquainted with him 
 in the East, felt anxious to have him there again ; and the 
 Protestants of Nablous wrote an earnest appeal to the Bishop 
 of Jerusalem, requesting that Mr Bowen would come to them, 
 if it were only for a short time, until they could have a 
 settled missionary amongst them. This call was one he could 
 not well refuse ; and having obtained leave of absence from 
 the Bishop of Ely, and found a clergyman to whom he could 
 intrust his parish, he again started for the East, September 
 1854 
 
 Before leaving England, he wrote thus to his curate of the 
 parish he was leaving : 
 
 " Excuse my running on, but you see the deep attachment 
 I have to my little flock, many of whom need much guidance 
 and forbearance. I write to you as being in my place, and 
 I believe I love my people, in some respects, as you love her 
 who is about to be your wife. I leave them only because I 
 consider that it is God's will to send me to another portion 
 of His vineyard ; I must not be a carpet soldier, trained as 
 I have been in rough fields." 
 
 He passed quickly over the ground this time, going through 
 
THE KECTOR. 457 
 
 France to Marseilles, and on by steamer. Soon after reach- 
 ing his destination, he writes again to his curate : 
 
 . . . . " My journey has been favourable. We reached 
 Jaffa in the evening, instead of the morning, of the 28th, 
 owing to the pilot having mistaken the town for Mount Car- 
 mel; and the vessel was, therefore, turned about, and we 
 went steaming for half the day until we found out our mis- 
 take. We did not arrive till sunset. Some wild-looking 
 boatmen carried us on shore, and the porters screamed 
 and quarrelled over the luggage more like animals than 
 men. 
 
 " I was lodged in the house of the missionary here, who 
 gave me a little room that reminded me much of that built 
 by the Shunnamite for the prophet, with its earthen floor, 
 built on the wall, its bed, table, and chair, with a cruse of 
 water. Nearly all were of the same kind as in the days of 
 Elisha. 
 
 " The streets of Jaffa are narrow, filthy lanes, crowded by 
 Arabs, camels, donkeys, and abounding in cries. Certainly 
 I have, on this present occasion, realised more than ever the 
 degraded state of the people of this country. 
 
 " My time has been much taken up since I have been 
 here in receiving and paying visits of ceremony, and at quiet 
 intervals I have been endeavouring to read up the language, 
 of which I have lost much ; so that, instead of giving an 
 account of myself, I can only express my feelings towards 
 the flock I have left. How often do I think of them, and 
 pray for them, as I hope many amongst them do for me ! 
 They must not think that I forget them because I do not 
 
458 THE RECTOK. 
 
 write. Especially on the Lord's-day, my thoughts return to 
 you all. 
 
 " I trust that the hearts of the people are drawing towards 
 you for your work's sake, and that your setting forth of 
 Christ is acceptable to them. 
 
 " Oh, how dark are the multitudes here, to many of whom 
 we cannot preach Christ ! The Moslem, proud of his false 
 prophet, is in a complete state of barbarism. Wars are 
 going on in the mountains, and murders are of constant 
 occurrence/' 
 
 Mr Bowen lost no time in settling himself at Nablous, and 
 the letters of the next chapter will describe his labours there, 
 and his untiring perseverance in endeavouring to teach the 
 people to work, and improve their temporal as well as spiri- 
 tual condition. Before entering on that period, it will be as 
 well to conclude the present chapter with a sketch by Mrs 
 Marsh of a visit to Orton Longueville. Her letter describ- 
 ing Mr Bowen at Nazareth, and the timely help afforded to 
 them on the shore of Lake Tiberias, has already been 
 given : 
 
 " On our way to the United States in 1854, we passed 
 through England, and one of our chief objects in doing so 
 was to pay a visit to Mr Bowen. He met us at Peterborough, 
 and took us to his quiet home, where our stay of a day or 
 two was only saddened by its shortness, and by the prospect 
 of a long separation. Here we had an opportunity of seeing 
 something of the respect and affection with which he was 
 regarded by his parishioners. It was plain that his influence 
 
THE RECTOR. 459 
 
 over the civilised Englishman was as powerful as we had 
 found it to be over the Arabs of Syria ; still we were satis- 
 fied, from his own conversation, that he himself believed his 
 true place to be among less favoured nations. He could not 
 but be conscious that with these wild races, where most men 
 could do nothing, he could do much. We were, therefore, 
 not surprised to hear of him again in the East ; and, later, 
 that he had accepted that most perilous office, the bishopric 
 of Sierra Leone. Our first letters from him, after his arri- 
 val in Africa, were hopeful, but he had evidently not under- 
 taken the work without counting the cost. The general tone 
 of his last letter, written in the hour of sorrow, seemed to 
 us to imply a conviction that his own labours were drawing 
 rapidly to a close ; and not only a readiness, but a desire for 
 rest, if such were the Divine will. A few months more, and 
 we, in common with so many others who had known his 
 worth, admired his noble character, and shared his friend- 
 ship, were called to mourn and rejoice over the death of this 
 remarkable man, to mourn for ourselves and the world, to 
 rejoice for him that his crown of reward was so soon ready. 
 Very truly yours, 
 
 " CAEOLINE C. MARSH. 
 
 "TURIN, June 24, 1861." 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 " Go labour on, 'tis not for nought ; 
 
 Thy earthly loss is heavenly gain ; 
 Men heed thee, love thee, praise thee not ; 
 The Master praises ; what are men ? 
 
 " Men die in darkness at thy side, 
 
 Without a hope to cheer the tomb ; 
 Take up the torch and wave it wide, 
 
 The torch that lights time's thickest gloom. 
 
 " Toil on, and in thy toil rejoice ; 
 
 For toil comes rest, for exile home ; 
 Soon shalt thou hear the Bridegroom's voice, 
 The midnight peal Behold I come ! " 
 
 BONAR. 
 
TO THE REV. H. VENN. 
 
 " NABLOUS, October 7, 1854. 
 
 "MY DEAR MR VENN, My journey has been prosperous 
 hitherto, and I am now here for a preliminary visit previous 
 to taking up my quarters in the place. I reached Jaffa 28th 
 September, .... and Jerusalem on the 30th, and stopped 
 at the Bishop's camp, from which I had started little more 
 than three years ago. The features of the country seemed 
 more harsh than heretofore, the rough mountain tracks more 
 stony and difficult than my memory had painted them, and 
 the state of the population more degraded ; this impression 
 is no doubt owing to my having travelled so quickly from 
 England ; indeed the change is marvellous. I did not enter 
 Jerusalem until the morning of Sunday, when I went to 
 attend the Arabic service at 7 A.M. ; Mr Nicolayson preached ; 
 the congregation was small, but I recognised old friends. I 
 paid a visit to Bethlehem ; the school seems promising, the 
 master very intelligent, and the mission think him a sincere 
 Christian. As to the troubles of a smaller nature let me 
 give you a specimen. One day a son of a Moslem sheik came 
 to the school at Bethlehem and demanded an inkstand ; the 
 
464 THE MISSIONAKY. 
 
 master was not there, so he took it away. The master sent 
 to inquire after it. He brought it back, abusing the master 
 and children, and finished off by throwing it at their heads. 
 Next day a sick camel was slain and thrown before the door 
 of the school. The master wrote to Sandreczki, who sent his 
 dragoman, who is Choja Bashee to the pasha, who sent an 
 order to the sheiks to protect the Protestants and remove the 
 nuisance. We took the order to Bethlehem, and after a 
 noisy conversation with some wild-looking fellows, a man 
 was sent to proclaim aloud through the village that nobody, 
 man or woman, must presume to insult the English school. 
 Again, the convents had been in the habit of paying the poll- 
 tax for their respective members, and the Bishop has felt it 
 needful to do so for most of the Protestants. Now they say 
 at Bethlehem that the convents only paid the half poll-tax 
 or charatch, and that the arrears of six or seven years must 
 be paid off, and this is demanded from the community. I 
 do not believe the story, but this is the barefaced way in 
 which they try to practise extortion ; indeed, just now extor- 
 tion and corruption seem to be carried to an incredible 
 extent. 
 
 " Leaving Jerusalem on the 6th, I reached this on the 7th. 
 Here there seems much to encourage, and less worldly 
 trouble. The young man Michael Cawar has been here as 
 catechist under the Bishop. He conducted the service on 
 Sunday with much propriety, and preached with considerable 
 effect. His coming here is quite providential. After I had 
 seen him at Haifa, much persecution was raised against him. 
 His relatives took away the little capital which had been 
 intrusted to him, and he came hither seeking to engage in 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 465 
 
 some business for which one of the Mohammedan beys was to 
 advance him the capital. The war prevented the arrange- 
 ment, and he was left without any means of subsistence. 
 
 When Mr K left this place, the people begged the 
 
 Bishop that Cawar might be kept amongst them to preach 
 the gospel, upon which he was employed with a salary. He is 
 a very superior man, of a better position in society than the 
 others, and has much judgment in secular matters, and may, 
 I trust, be prepared for great usefulness amongst his people. 
 "Jerusalem, October 3lst. Since writing the above, I 
 
 have been a considerable round At Nazareth I was 
 
 much pleased with the church which is building there ; it is, 
 at all events, a suitable room for a place of worship. On 
 the Sunday morning I endeavoured to preach, and had a 
 congregation of about forty, who tried to make out my 
 meaning. On the Monday, I left and crossed the western 
 portion of the plain of Jezreel, and, through the valleys of 
 Megiddo, reached Csesarea, in the ruins of which we slept. 
 A Hyta, or Bashi-basouk, who was with me, was much afraid 
 of Arabs, but we saw no danger. We passed some very 
 fine land and ruined villages, where the Arabs from time to 
 time scratch the soil under the impression that they are 
 cultivating it. From Csesarea I went to Jaffa, and was 
 obliged in honour to return thence to the north, for a Pro- 
 testant wedding at Acre, which I was to solemnise between 
 native Moosa Tanous, interpreter of the British consul here, 
 and Sarah Giarnmel, sister to the American vice-consul at 
 Acre, who is, I trust, a decided Christian. Klein was to have 
 taken the wedding, and some of the parties went down, 
 
 depending on my being at Nazareth. The lady is a Pro- 
 
 2G 
 
466 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 testant, and her family either Catholics or Greek, she is 
 also a superior person to most native women. So out of 
 respect to her, and to shew that the Protestant clergy will 
 take trouble for their people, I went back to Acre on the 
 19th. I performed service there on Sunday, and tried to 
 preach. There is, I trust, a work begun at Acre, and it is 
 an important place. At Haifa, on the other side of the 
 Bay, there is an application to the Bishop for a school. I 
 returned to Jaffa by the Austrian steamer ; remained one 
 day ; left it in the afternoon ; passed the night at Lydda 
 with the leader of the Protestant party there, on a very dirty 
 roof ; and came on here next day. 
 
 " I have to-day been taking down one of the olive-crushing 
 machines to send to Nablous, and working a good deal with 
 my own hands. To-morrow, or the next day, I leave for 
 Nablous. 
 
 "November 3d I came to Nablous, and am beginning 
 to settle myself. I have been paying complimentary visits 
 to the governor, the cadi, the nakeel, and others. Since 
 
 my arrival, I must say, I do not feel surprised at K 's 
 
 leaving the place ; there is a wildness about the Mohammed- 
 ans here which one does not see in Jerusalem or Jaffa, and 
 they have been very jealous of the presence of Europeans. 
 
 After K had taken a house, and paid a portion of the 
 
 rent in advance, the people who owned the house, frightened 
 by the other Moslems, gave him back the money, saying they 
 were afraid to let him stay. This led to his leaving the 
 place. 
 
 "As to industrial matters, there is very much that may 
 be done, if one's energy would only keep up to the mark ; 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 4G7 
 
 but this is hard, and I already feel the influence of listless- 
 ness and multiplied difficulties and objections ; the secular 
 business trenches, too, very much on the spiritual. May I 
 keep my great object in view ! 
 
 " The temporal condition of the Protestants is very trying, 
 on account of their looking for help from us, and being really 
 very poor and most of them much in debt, which is often the 
 case in this country. Having been accustomed to have their 
 taxes, and sometimes house rent, paid by the convents, they 
 think it strange that we, who have the name of being rich, 
 aiul profess a greater love to the Saviour, do not do more to 
 help them. 
 
 " I have been much interrupted by people coming, and am 
 sorry that I write so bad a hand. Remembering you witli 
 much Christian love, yours, &c., JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 TO MAJOR STRAITH. 
 
 " NABLOUS, December 16th, 1854. 
 
 " MY DEAR MAJOR STRAITH, This letter will be partly 
 on industrial plans, and partly on our missionary prospects. 
 It will not be so full as I could wish, but it will give some 
 sketches and explanations. As to industry I am somewhat 
 disappointed; the apathy of the people, the difficulty of 
 introducing new things, the misunderstanding among our- 
 selves from want of fuller knowledge and experience, have 
 all to be encountered, and occasion delays, and often needless 
 expenses ; still I am convinced that there is much to be done, 
 and that all we have begun will succeed in spite of mistakes, 
 and that the money spent by the auxiliary committee will 
 not be lost. 
 
468 THE MISSION AEY. 
 
 " As to the oil-presses, as yet I regret that a small one 
 was not also sent for us ; it can be worked at less expense, 
 and two or three could be set up at different places more 
 conveniently for the olive groves. The press is absolutely 
 necessary ; the machinery we have would be useless without 
 it. The manufacturers wrote to me, saying that they stated 
 this when it was ordered, adding, that it requires two 
 presses, which cost 1400 dols. I have asked. Mr Mayar to 
 send one. When once the thing is fairly at work, some 
 people here who have money will join us, and the remain- 
 ing press be obtained ; or if the iron work were sent, the 
 wooden part might be made here. Had the press arrived 
 last steamer we should now have been at work, and have 
 saved a part of the season, but by this time the olives are 
 almost all crushed. I still hope it may come by the 9th of 
 January, that we may get a few to try, and then be ready for 
 next year. I think one large machine will make most of the 
 oil in Samaria. If the two presses have been ordered, I fear 
 your fund will be exhausted, but it is better to be at work 
 than to leave the money with the banker. 
 
 " As to Nazareth, before receiving your letter, it was settled 
 to lay out 30, and start one plough. This is much more 
 than double the sum I thought necessary, but three oxen 
 were bought instead of two ; two are worked, and then one 
 is alternately changed and rested, so that more work is done. 
 The price of everything is very much increased since I was 
 here before ; the seed will be double the price it was, and 
 oxen two -thirds more, as well as their food. Three have 
 been bought for 16, 7s. ; this I consider dear for the kind 
 purchased, and fear we have been cheated. 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 460 
 
 " The arrangement made is, that the ploughman takes the 
 fourth of the produce. We feed the cattle, and find imple- 
 ments and seed. We have not yet settled what to do with 
 the produce. We* shall pay the tax for one plough, perhaps 
 more, and this will be some relief. The question will arise 
 about the profits, if there are any, and I fear some unreason- 
 able expectations will be entertained by some of our people 
 as to their receiving a share as a gift. I should wish the 
 Palestine Fund Committee to meet and lay down some rule or 
 principle as to the appropriation of the profits if any. If I 
 have not very much exceeded the balance, shall it remain a 
 debt, and be paid out of the proceeds, or must I refund 
 forthwith ? I do not yet see my way to do anything at Jaffa 
 or at Bethlehem ; the worst is that most of the professing 
 Protestants are tradesmen ; you cannot make people employ 
 them, and they have not sufficient energy to turn their hands 
 to anything new. Could we get the right sort of people, the 
 best plan I think would be to take up some of the ruined 
 villages on the plain of Esdraelon, and form a settlement on 
 Christian principles, but not necessarily composed of pro- 
 fessing Protestants. We might get a grant of the site from 
 the government by paying the dues. Employ the best men 
 you could procure, deal fairly with them, maintain a school, 
 let your working lads go to the school ; the establishment 
 would in fact resemble at first a large farm, on the plan of 
 the old Puritan settlers in North America. A house of a 
 few rooms must be built, and a walled enclosure for the 
 cattle, sheep, and implements ; it should be one into which 
 the Arabs could not come, and which could be defended. 
 Since I was here, many villages in some of the best parts of 
 
470 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 the plain have been pillaged and deserted. Security has 
 now been in a great degree restored, but it may illustrate the 
 state of things if I tell you that I am very sorry I have not 
 got a pair of good pistols or a revolver ; and that though I 
 carry on my journeys a small fowling-piece, still, as I came 
 from Nazareth the other day with only my servant, and 
 starting before day, I felt it was a mistake to have forgotten 
 my powder flask, for I do not like having only sham means 
 of defence. If you are unarmed, and your retinue small, 
 any wandering Arab horsemen you may meet will demand 
 backshish, in anything but a supplicating manner, and if 
 you give immediately, will increase his demands ; however, 
 thank God, I have never yet been molested, and, in general, 
 we Franks are pretty safe. But I have wandered from the 
 idea of a colony which I have hinted at. How far it is 
 necessary for our present converts, how far it may be the 
 means of humanising, and, under happier auspices, evan- 
 gelising, the wild Moslem peasantry, is not now clear. 
 Certainly so much secular work will tend to draw us away 
 from the great spiritual end we have in view. This leads 
 me to make a few remarks on what is more properly 
 missionary work. Here I am not without hope, though 
 sometimes I feel as though the land, and people in it, were 
 utterly accursed of God, and every effort at improvement 
 hopeless. 
 
 "Last Sunday I was at Nazareth, having gone there in 
 company with Mr Finn, the consul. I conducted service in 
 Arabic twice on the Sunday, and attended the Bible-class on 
 Tuesday. Each time there was a tolerable gathering ; about 
 thirty adults in the morning, and fifteen in the afternoon, 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 471 
 
 and as many at the Bible-class. Several could not read, and 
 their understandings were difficult to reach. Very few of 
 these were Protestants when I was there three years ago. 
 Most of that sect have gone back on finding that their worldly 
 expectations were unfounded. It is rumoured that several 
 of the present lot are bad characters, and no doubt the chief 
 man, of whom I have often spoken, seems to be still the 
 same intriguing person, untouched in heart by gospel truth. 
 He is very much disliked by the people on account of his 
 violent ways, but he attributes his unpopularity to his 
 forming a Protestant sect in Nazareth As a speci- 
 men of the things that are occurring around us, I may state 
 the following. On our arrival at Nazareth, the chief man, 
 Georgis, told us that the mason who was finishing the well 
 at Mr Klein's building had been falsely imprisoned ; he had 
 been beaten, and then shut up in irons, upon suspicion of 
 being a thief. This was represented as being sheer perse- 
 cution. The consul demanded the man's release, and that 
 he should be tried on the merit of the testimony. He was 
 released, but not tried, and it seems there are some suspicious 
 circumstances against him, while the fact of his being ironed 
 and beaten is doubtful Since my return here, the accuser 
 and persecutor has also arrived ; he is uncle to Michael Cawar, 
 the catechist, who still continues very promising. The uncle 
 formerly persecuted Michael, but has now made friends with 
 him, and has mixed much among the Protestants here. He 
 is evidently impressed. He said yesterday that the Protest- 
 ants at Nablous care for their religion, and know the 
 Scriptures, but that they are different at Nazareth. I know 
 that this man was formerly bitter against us. He seemed 
 
472 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 vexed when some of our friends pressed him hard. I 
 understand that he is now on his way to Jerusalem to make 
 some demand on the Greek convent ; if it be not granted he 
 intends to become a Protestant, if matters can be arranged 
 that he should not be under the rule of Georgia el Yacoob. 
 He is the leading Greek of Nazareth, and belongs to one of 
 the most influential families, a clever person, and wealthy. 
 It is a sad necessity here, that would-be Protestants must 
 declare themselves before they can be taught ; this false step 
 at the beginning often blinds their eyes. 
 
 "As to this station, Nablous, there is some imperfect 
 knowledge, together with a little intriguing and a desire to 
 borrow money without the slightest idea of paying it back ; 
 yet several of the congregation are intelligent and honest 
 Protestants, who have taken up their position after search 
 and inquiry. I hope there are signs of spiritual life. There 
 is a great leaving off of old sins, and, notwithstanding a little 
 envy and caballing, there is on the whole a pleasant brotherly 
 feeling, and a good disposition towards the old Greek sect ; 
 the chief of whom, with some others, have been civil in calling 
 upon me, and I hope to have many opportunities of inter- 
 course with them. There are a good many Moslems, from 
 thirty to thirty-five, at the school, but only in the afternoon. 
 They learn writing and arithmetic ; to this I add a little geo- 
 graphy twice a-week. The children are becoming well-dis- 
 posed to us, and this is a step in the right direction. Several 
 Samaritans and two or three Jews also came to the school. 
 The Christian children are smaller than those formerly in 
 the school ; but they are making fair progress in the know- 
 ledge of the Scriptures. We are still sadly off for the proper 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 473 
 
 means of teaching and influencing the girls. The mental and 
 spiritual condition of the females is truly deplorable. I have 
 not yet taken a house, not having found one altogether suit- 
 able. I occupy a room as a lodger, pleasantly situated on a 
 terrace ; but without the luxury of glass. I am writing at 
 an extempore table, of a couple of boards on a travelling 
 bedstead ; I doubt if a carpenter in the place can make a 
 decent table. 
 
 " There are two interesting circumstances which illustrate 
 the truth, 'Cast thy bread/ &c. 1st, The Book of Prayers 
 for a week, printed by the C.M.S., at Malta, is used for 
 family prayers in several houses in the town. 2d, I have 
 just heard, that twenty-five years ago there were Protestants 
 in Nazareth, a few men, who would not kiss the pictures, but 
 might be seen reading the Scriptures with tears, and, accord- 
 ing to my informant, a leading Protestant here, used to pray 
 from their own thoughts. These were, perhaps, some of 
 those who received the Scriptures from Jowett. 
 
 " It is difficult to find time for writing, for visitors come 
 morning, noon, and night, and they are offended if you are 
 engaged. I feel, too, that it is my business rather to gain 
 access to the people here than report details, which are 
 sometimes interesting, but often deceptive. We are in the 
 Lord's hands and in the Lord's work : may He quicken us to 
 more earnestness and self-denial, to be instant in season and 
 
 out of season. Yours faithfully, 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 TO MAJOR STRAITH. 
 After some remarks about the olive-presses which Mr 
 
474 THE MISSIONAEY. 
 
 Bowen had ordered to assist the people in the improved 
 method of preparing their oil, he continues : 
 
 " The next difficulty we shall have will be with some of 
 our poor people, who would rather wish us to give them 
 money without work, but I trust they may be taught better. 
 On explaining my views on this point to one of our people 
 at Nablous, the other day, he said, 'Your hearts are good, 
 but ours are bad/ I do not know that I have written to 
 you since our school treat, which I gave on old Christmas- 
 day, January 6. We dressed out the room with the missionary 
 diagrams, to the great entertainment of the children, and 
 many grown-up persons, who were astonished at the variety 
 of the people in the world ; while the Greeks applauded the 
 charity of the English in sending the gospel to the heathen. 
 I must ask you to let me have the second series ; some of the 
 other diagrams of the Working-men's Union would, I think, 
 be also useful in rousing the Moslems. Oh, when will the day 
 come for preaching openly to them! To attempt such a 
 course now would occasion serious disturbances and endanger 
 our missions, but after one has more acquaintance with the 
 language and people, I trust something may be done. The 
 state of the country is getting worse and worse ; anarchy and 
 blood abound amongst the mountaineers. The peasantry are 
 certainly more ferocious than I thought, but yet such a state 
 of things may tend to open the way for us ; I fear we can 
 expect little energy in the government as long as the war 
 lasts. In the neighbourhood of Jerusalem and Nablous, 
 there are very serious disdurbances, and many people have 
 been killed. I came up here last week to see about going 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 4?5 
 
 with the Bishop to Alexandria, for the consecration of a new 
 church there. After a few days I shall return to Nablous, 
 and perhaps visit Jaffa. As to missionary work, I cannot 
 say much ; our services and Bible-classes are regularly con- 
 ducted, and we endeavour to bear an intelligible testimony 
 to the gospel, but the people are much more ready to listen 
 to curious questions than to the story of the love of Christ, 
 and their need of conversion. They have lately been much 
 troubled to ascertain who the brethren of Jesus were, and 
 various theories are adopted to shew that these could not 
 possibly have been the children of the virgin. Great offence 
 was given the other day to some of the Greeks who were 
 sitting with me, owing to my servant having unconsciously 
 put a little milk in all the cups of tea that were handed 
 round, and it happened to be fasting time. Sometimes the 
 Greeks come to me with some curious questions to solve, 
 which gives me an opportunity of speaking to them of what 
 they ought to ask about. We are also troubled by the in- 
 consistency and worldliness of our own people, but we ought 
 not to expect much from them yet. 
 
 "As to a house, I have taken one for six months for 3, 
 and have by and by the prospect of getting one for about 
 15 per annum. 
 
 "Have you yet thought about a relief for me? We want 
 a mnirk'il man for Nablous, and lie should be an English 
 gentleman of the right stamp, willing to do or submit to 
 anything for the good of souls. It would be well if he could 
 come out before I leave. I am afraid the war will tell upon 
 your funds, but you trust in the Lord. Yours affectionately, 
 
 " JOHN Bo WEN." 
 
476 THE MISSIONAEY. 
 
 In a letter written to one of his sisters, who purposed 
 joining him in his work at Nablous, and had been prevented 
 from doing so, he says : 
 
 " Perhaps it is as well that the delay put a stop to your 
 coming ; and now there would be too little time to make it 
 worth while. Though I should have been very glad to have 
 had you, or any of the girls, here with me, yet, in many 
 respects, a residence in this place would have been very 
 embarrassing. The first European female residing here 
 would have much to contend against in the customs of the 
 people. The Christian women are kept almost as secluded 
 as the Moslem and are never seen by Moslems. The women 
 are altogether a bad set ; the filthy state of the children, even 
 of those who are in comfortable circumstances, speaks of their 
 miserable idleness and shiftlessness. When will a way be 
 opened for their improvement ? The few poor men who are 
 Protestants are scarcely aware of the need of improvement in 
 this direction. I do not know if the cold weather makes one 
 cross, but things seem darker than ever. We have had much 
 rain and some snow. The glassless houses are very cold ; 
 the wind enters freely through the chinks of the shutter, and 
 recourse must be had to a pan of charcoal and a great-coat. 
 The damp atmosphere after the rains treasures up in the 
 air the exhalations of the accumulated filth of the horrid 
 streets, and makes us painfully conscious of our surround- 
 ings. Happily, a strong stream flows through the place; 
 and this, after many days, has managed to make its own 
 rapid course tolerably clean, and must have wonderfully 
 fertilised the irrigated grounds below the town. The weather 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 477 
 
 has cleared at last ; the sun is again bright ; and the people 
 begin to saunter out, to gaze idly on the fine springs and 
 rivulets to which the town owes its rise. 
 
 " Yesterday was Sunday. My morning congregation was 
 composed of about thirty adults. I preached on the sower. 
 In the evening my assistant spoke Michael Cawar, whom I 
 have often mentioned. Some of the Greeks came to me after 
 the service, to visit ; but I was prevented from having any 
 useful conversation by the arrival of the cadi, who often pays 
 me a visit, because he wishes to be thought on good terms 
 with the English. I feel more than ever the difficulties of 
 my position here, and my own worthlessness and weakness. 
 The work is the Lord's, not our own ; and when He pleases, 
 He will remove the veil of the covering cast over all nations. 
 The Mohammedans are sadly dark and awfully bigoted, of 
 course in proportion to their ignorance. It is difficult to 
 avoid laughing when you see grave mollahs believing the 
 most puerile absurdities. Their mind is that of the tenth 
 century ; the philosopher's stone is still the dream of their 
 wise men ! Like the fashion of their garments, their intel- 
 lects have stood still. The accounts of railways are to them 
 like tales of the genii ; they are, no doubt, very glad that 
 there are no such things to disturb their peace, or perhaps 
 let the light in upon their villany. In blessed England, when 
 we read in the Psalms about the strong man oppressing the 
 poorer, we do not know what it means ; but I am afraid the 
 Israelites were wicked and selfish, like the Moslems, and so 
 occasioned the expressions. The sheiks of the villages, who 
 are men of property, compel the peasants to give them money 
 whenever they please, under pretence of looking after their 
 
478 THE MISSIONAKY. 
 
 interests, and preventing others from plundering them. The 
 longer one lives amongst them, the more does one learn of 
 their rascality. The ignorance of the poor people leads them 
 to submit to all this ; the land languishes under the curse. 
 
 " I have taken a new house in the Samaritan quarters as a 
 temporary abode, and have furnished it with low cotton 
 cushions for seats. 
 
 " The Samaritan priest is sitting before me and smoking a 
 Narghili, and now and then addressing me, which does not 
 facilitate my writing " 
 
 In another letter he thus describes the situation of Nablous, 
 the ancient Sichem of the Old Testament and Sychar of the 
 
 New : 
 
 " The town lies just between the two mountains, Ebal and 
 Gerizim ; great masses of limestone, with long dorsal sum- 
 mits ; and the gap between them is part of a winding valley 
 that stretches from the plain of Sharon to the Ghor, or deep 
 valley of the Jordan. It is probable that the camp of Israel 
 was in view of these hills from the heights of Gilead, (Deut. 
 xi. 29, 30.) The valley is open east and west, and the plain 
 of Moreh extends at the eastern entrance, and runs north 
 and south, surrounded on all sides by hills, presenting on the 
 average a plain of about three miles long by one wide, (Gen. 
 xii. 6.) As, journeying from the south, you turn into the 
 valley toward the west, just under the precipitous height of 
 Gerizim, a few irregular heaps of stone, and three or four 
 fragments of granite pillars, mark the reputed well of Jacob. 
 It cannot be far from this spot that our Lord sat down and 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 479 
 
 conversed with the Samaritan woman, (John iv.) Alas ! how 
 much do the people here now require to learn the doctrine 
 our blessed Lord then taught ! Last Saturday I took a ride 
 on my old Assyrian horse to the well, and I felt so oppressed 
 by the want of the presence and power of Him, who must 
 often have passed and taught near the spot, that I could 
 have kissed the stones which may have witnessed the scene. 
 
 " A little to the north there is a spot about twelve feet 
 square, enclosed by a dilapidated wall ten feet high, over- 
 shadowed by a vine. On the inside are some inscriptions in 
 Hebrew, describing the building as marking the spot where 
 the bones of Joseph are said to lie. Last night a Moslem 
 came to me and wanted me to give him about ten shillings 
 for oil to burn in honour of the patriarch. The Jews used 
 to pay him a small sum for this purpose, but they have given 
 it up. He says that if a hare comes in and drinks the oil, it 
 is sure to die. 
 
 " The two hills are remarkably adapted for the purpose 
 appointed by Moses, but I do not see any marked difference 
 between them. There is certainly more verdure on Gerizim, 
 and the fine springs, which are the best things in this town, 
 rise beneath it. The hills are not quite so high as that at 
 the back of your house, but steeper and more bare of trees, 
 displaying great masses of limestone. The soil that does 
 exist is very fertile, and the irrigation makes the gardens be- 
 low the town exceedingly productive. These hills may have 
 something to do with the allusion, Gen. xlix. 26, and Deut. 
 xxxiii. 15. They formed a very remarkable part of the inherit- 
 ance of Joseph. The remnant of the Samaritans here still 
 hold that in this mountain is the place where men ought to 
 
480 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 worship. Amram, the priest, is very friendly with me. 
 Yesterday I had an interesting conversation with him and a 
 Greek priest from Kephidim, on the import of Leviticus 
 as pointing to the Saviour. I asked the priest to answer 
 the objections of the Samaritans, which he could not do, and 
 then the Samaritan answered the priest himself. The priest 
 wants to become Protestant, and told me that many of the 
 people of his village would follow him. He wished to send 
 a petition to the Bishop at Jerusalem. As they are yet very 
 ignorant, I recommended them to wait a while. Their ob- 
 ject is that we should protect them against oppression from 
 the Moslem beys and sheiks who have a variety of expedients 
 
 for squeezing money out of the peasantry 
 
 " I am on friendly terms with many of the Moslems, which 
 is something to say of one of the most bigoted towns in 
 Palestine, where even now the most insulting terms are 
 applied to the passing Frank. We cannot bring the gospel 
 before them, but in conversation I give reasons why we 
 cannot believe the Koran to be the Word of God. That 
 work is the curse of the country, and one of the mysterious 
 means by which we find the words of prophecy fulfilled in 
 the desolate condition of the land, and in the wretched state 
 of the people. The Moslems in the mountain are frequently 
 at war ; murders are common, and nobody troubles himself 
 about them." 
 
 TO THE EEV. H. VENN. 
 
 ''February 23, 1855. 
 
 "MY DEAR MR VENN, It has occurred to me that it 
 might be well if I write a few lines to you on the Samaritans, 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 481 
 
 about whom, I understand, some interest is excited in Eng- 
 land. I have just given Amram, the priest of the sect, some 
 paper to write to Lord Shaftesbury, Mr Fitch, and Mr Fisk, 
 thanking them for their kindness to their agent Yacoob el 
 Samaria, who went to England with Mr Rogers, vice-consul 
 of Haifa. Mr Finn, the consul at Jerusalem, has received 
 50 from the Foreign Secretary to give to the Samaritans. 
 An order has been obtained from Constantinople for their 
 more efficient protection ; and the English consid has been 
 authorised to look after their affairs. As they have been 
 much oppressed, this will no doubt be a valuable boon to the 
 
 little community. I do not know what Yacoob and Mr R 
 
 are about, nor what they want ; but the Samaritans here hope 
 to get English money, and the priest talks of opening a 
 school. Now I do not think English Christians are called 
 upon to teach the absurdities of Samaritan tradition ; and 
 the patrons of Yacoob in England should be careful that 
 they do not let their sympathy be imposed upon, as it has 
 too often been by curious orientals. One school here is open 
 to the Samaritans ; they leave before the evening prayer of 
 the Christians, and are not compelled to read the gospel. 
 Yacoob was a servant in this country. 
 
 " The chief priest Amram seems respectable ; he is con- 
 stantly with me, and has been assisting me in my work of 
 the oil-press. He listens a good deal to the gospel, but how 
 far he is sincere I cannot tell. If funds are to be raised for 
 them, it is very desirable to know to what purpose and by 
 whom those funds are to be applied. The priest complains 
 of the ignorance and selfishness of his people, but says he 
 
 cannot teach them, because their law does not admit of 
 
 2H 
 
482 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 preaching in any language but Hebrew, and this the people 
 do not understand. 
 
 " The priest said the other day that twenty-seven individ- 
 uals in the sect had to pay taxes. There are a few exempt 
 from various causes, but this shews what a small body they 
 are ; the number of men over twenty-one can scarcely exceed 
 thirty-five, and is perhaps less. There are many of them 
 poor, with no capital to trade with, and daily labour is not 
 only precarious, but, in their opinion, odious. Here every 
 man likes to listen and gossip, buy and sell and get gain, 
 and even the fellahs work very irregularly. You have 
 possibly heard of the agent's doings in England, and will 
 know what use to make of the hints I am giving, if you 
 think it well to recommend caution. 
 
 " I am, as usual, obliged to write in haste. I live so like 
 the people of this country, my door is always open, and I 
 often let them waste my time in unprofitable talk. 
 
 " The presses have arrived, but the weather is so bad that 
 the camels cannot move them from Jaffa. I have been lately 
 to Jerusalem and Jaffa, and I hope to write more next post. 
 It is very cold, and in the open room, with unglazed win- 
 dows, no fire, and damp air, it is difficult to hold a pen. 
 "We have occasion to say, 'What must it be at Sebastopol?' 
 
 " As to our labours, sometimes we are cast down, perplexed, 
 and grieved ; at others, we remember that the work is the 
 Lord's. 
 
 " I am getting up my Arabic again, and felt comparatively 
 at my ease in preaching yesterday afternoon, but a broken 
 tongue is a poor medium for making known the gospel. 
 Yours faithfully, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 483 
 
 Mr Bowen continued on most friendly terms with the 
 Samaritan high priest during the whole of his stay at Nab- 
 lous, and brought a valuable ancient manuscript to England 
 for him, which he sold for the benefit of the sect to the 
 British Museum. In another letter, he describes the manner 
 in which he conducted his ministerial work amongst the 
 people : 
 
 " Twice a week, in the evening, we have a Bible-class or 
 meeting on Tuesdays, in the house of one of our people, 
 successively ; on Thursdays, in my house. It is well attended 
 by the men and many of the young people, but the women 
 find it difficult to come out. We read a chapter verse by 
 verse, and then I make a comment, while any one who likes 
 asks questions or makes observations. We commence with 
 prayer, with one's own thoughts as they call it, or a portion 
 of the Liturgy, and at the end I ask my native assistant or 
 the schoolmaster to pray. I have often felt that some such 
 meetings might be useful amongst my dear parishioners at 
 Orton. The more we know of people's thoughts, the better 
 able we shall be to instruct them. 
 
 "At present, we have not much increase to our congrega- 
 tion ; sometimes some of the Greeks come and listen ; and 
 twice lately I have been asked to go and pray with the sick ; 
 and as it has pleased God that these people should get better, 
 they seem to have some superstitious notion of the benefit of 
 my prayers ; the petition being granted is to them a proof of 
 the acceptability or holiness of him who prays. I am always 
 glad of anything that opens any way to mutual intercourse. 
 .... We have peace in the mountains now, but not until a 
 
484 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 number of unfortunate people have been killed. No one is 
 punished. The ring-leaders have patched up a kind of truce, 
 called a reconciliation, and matters remain quiet, until a fresh 
 attack occurs. 
 
 " We have had a good deal of trouble lately about a piece 
 of ground that had been purchased for a burying ground. 
 The man who sold it had only a right to a part of it, and an 
 opponent appeared, in the person of our friend the cadi, who 
 claimed eighteen parts out of the twenty-four. He was 
 followed by another, who made a demand for six of the 
 eighteen parts claimed by the cadi. The matter is still un- 
 settled. In the discussions that arise out of these things, 
 there is a strange mixture of childishness and petty cunning, 
 while the debates are exceedingly stormy. 
 
 " The wife of a German who was a little time with me at 
 Orton, and is now employed here as an industrial missionary, 
 was spending a day with me a short time back, and went out 
 into the town with some women of the place, when she was 
 pelted and insulted for wearing a bonnet. I immediately 
 made a complaint of the outrage, and some lads, supposed 
 to be concerned in it, were, after a sham inquiry, severely 
 beaten. The mufti instructed the elders and sheiks of the 
 quarters to warn the people of their respective districts 
 against such outrages, and charged them to curse the fathers 
 of all offenders. This form of execration is most commonly 
 heard in the street, even from the mouths of little girls. 
 
 " I' was encouraged the other day by a man, not a mem- 
 ber of our congregation, saying to me, ' Formerly we were 
 in great ignorance, and no one asked after us ; now we 
 frequently find the people reading the Word of God in our 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 485 
 
 houses, and talking about it : this we owe to the Eng- 
 lish/" 
 
 During the April of this year Mr Bowen accompanied 
 Bishop Gobat to Egypt, acting again as his chaplain for the 
 time. The object of this journey was the consecration of a 
 new English Church at Alexandria. Still true to some of 
 his early predilections, the sailors in port occupied his first 
 thoughts ; and he writes from Alexandria : 
 
 "Last Sunday was the busiest I have spent for a long 
 time. At 9 A.M. I had service on board the Ariadne, an 
 old man-of-war, now a coal-hulk, to which I had invited 
 the seamen in the port ; but only the crew of a Welsh 
 vessel came. At 10.30 I had another service on board the 
 Himalaya, the great steamer which had come to take away 
 part of the 12th Lancers from India to the Crimea. The 
 crew formed a very good congregation. I preached again 
 in the afternoon, at the new church which was consecrated 
 April 25th. 
 
 "The Lancers arrived on the Sunday morning, and the 
 Bishop offered to perform any religious service for them; 
 but, I am sorry to say, the colonel declined, on account of 
 the very many things the men had to do before embarking. 
 It was very affecting to see these fine fellows preparing to 
 go to the scene of war, where they will soon be in active 
 service. I should have been very glad to have accompanied 
 them, had there been any way ; but I cannot feel at liberty 
 to go, unless I were to see something distinctly leading me 
 there. 
 
486 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 " The last few weeks at Nablous were diversified by the 
 occasional arrival of travellers, both English and American, 
 on whom I generally called. Not long before I left, we had 
 the Duke of Brabant, with his Duchess. He had been re- 
 ceived with great honour by the pacha at Jerusalem, and the 
 governor at Nablous was ordered to shew him every attention. 
 A large part of the congregation turned out to see the son of 
 a king. I pitched my tent by the well of Jacob, ornamented 
 it with a little Belgic flag, spread a new carpet inside, and 
 placed on it a Bible open at John iv., in fact, did every- 
 thing to make the visit of His Eoyal Highness interesting 
 and agreeable ; but the maglis* and the mob surrounded my 
 tent, and stood in a row to receive him. Unfortunately, the 
 Prince did not recognise their dignity, and made no bow 
 to them, contenting himself with only acknowledging the 
 removal of my fez. He just looked at the mouth of the 
 well, from which I had had the stones removed, bowed 
 very politely to my explanations of the mountains, plain of 
 Moreh, &c., and went off. There were disturbances in the 
 mountains near Nablous about the time of my leaving. On 
 the road to Jerusalem, I met nearly a hundred armed men 
 going to take part in the wars of a village hard by/' 
 
 Mr Bowen remained a short time at Alexandria, and then 
 went on to Cairo, where he visited the great pyramid of 
 Ghizeh. He also inspected the missionary and other schools 
 there, and was especially interested in one under the imme- 
 diate superintendence of the patriarch of the Coptic Church, 
 who seemed anxious to improve the people, and to introduce 
 
 * The maglis are the council of the town. 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 487 
 
 reforms amongst them. He returned to his little flock at 
 Nablous in May. But, while engaged in ministering to them, 
 and in overlooking other parts of the mission-field in the 
 East, he did not forget his parishioners at Orton. He sent to 
 many of them affectionate messages respecting their temporal 
 and spiritual welfare, and gave his curate very precise direc- 
 tions concerning them, taking especial interest in the annual 
 missionary meeting, On hearing an account of this from 
 Mr Cook, he replies : 
 
 TO THE REV. E. W. COOK. 
 
 " MY DEAR MR COOK, I have received your letter. It 
 was as water to a thirsty soul good news from a far country. 
 With deep interest I read your account of the missionary 
 meeting, and was very much gratified to hear of the school, 
 where I trust the young people will get sound and useful 
 instruction. As to missions, there is one word I wish to 
 remark. You speak of gospel triumphs they will come, 
 they must come ; but we have long to wait. Our work is 
 like the siege of Sebastopol ; Satan has all sorts of defences. 
 The human mind, trained in iniquity and deceit, is a very 
 barren soil. You would say, however, that there was much 
 hope, if you were to see my little congregation listening to 
 the foreigner who, in broken accents, preaches the gospel, 
 or our Bible-classes, where young and old seem interested in 
 searching the Word of God. I do feel very hopeful that, 
 with respect to some, my journey has not been in vain. 
 
 " I have been lately to Jaffa to try a new portable thrash- 
 ing machine I had ordered out from Wales. It is one of the 
 lightest I ever saw. I directed it to be made so that camels 
 
488 THE MISSIONAEY. 
 
 could carry it, but alas ! the makers seem to have as little 
 idea of a camel as the people here would have of a railroad, 
 so I was obliged to leave it at Jaffa till I can set a pair of 
 wheels under it. As the thrashing is nearly over, I fear 
 I cannot give it a fair trial this year. There is great diffi- 
 culty in introducing new things into this country. The longer 
 I stay the more do I see the completely barbarous state of 
 the Moslem population. I like now and then to give you a 
 little specimen of the state of things. 
 
 " The day I was ready to leave Jaffa, there was a report 
 that a caravan from Nablous had been robbed by Arabs. I 
 sent to the governor to ask for a couple of horsemen to go 
 with me. He said he could not let me go at all, until he 
 had further intelligence of the state of the roads, and of the 
 course of the Arabs, but promised to send the guard if the 
 result of his inquiries was satisfactory. I slept outside the 
 town, but no guard came. Being anxious to start, I asked 
 my servant what we should do ? ' Let us go,' he said, ' what 
 God does is good/ so we set off at daybreak. It was five 
 hours before we reached the hills, and I was glad to have 
 seen nothing of those gentry who, having secured a good 
 booty, had, it seems, retired to the valley of the Jordan. The 
 people of the unfortunate caravan, some of whom were re- 
 spectable merchants, came into the village where I halted, 
 quite naked. On my arriving, I found many of the peasants 
 sitting about with their guns, but I did not know what was 
 the matter. After leaving, I learnt that they were waiting 
 to settle a quarrel of blood. Two parties of men having met 
 at night on the road, and challenged each other, received no 
 answer ; they then fired, and one man was killed. Instead 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 489 
 
 of the government inquiring into the affair, the people settle 
 it in their own way. They demand some unreasonable sum 
 of money as the price of blood ; this is refused, and both 
 parties meet again to fight the matter out. The first thing 
 I heard yesterday was, that another man of Rephidim had 
 been shot, and was now lying in a dangerous state. Alas ! 
 when will this state of things change ! How is the land 
 cursed in the inhabitants thereof ! 
 
 " The state of this country is most disgraceful to the Turks, 
 and discreditable to the Allies, who ought to induce the Sul- 
 tan to take more care of his subjects. I earnestly hope that in 
 consequence of representations made in Constantinople, troops 
 will be sent to restore order. How much do we need fidth 
 in the midst of such things to look up to Him to Whom all 
 power is committed ! " 
 
 In another letter of the same date he writes : 
 
 " The anarchy and confusion continue. The place is 
 almost in a state of siege the Turkish authorities are 
 shamefully weak and incapable. The most bare-faced 
 bribery is practised in everything." 
 
 From the next letter we gather that the Turkish authori- 
 ties at last made some attempt to restore order in these 
 disturbed districts, and as a preliminary step sent a new 
 governor to Nablous : 
 
 TO THE REV. H. VENN. 
 
 "NABLOUS, June 4, 1854. 
 ". . . . A new governor, a Turk, has replaced Ali Bey 
 
490 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 Tokan. His entrance was not without bloodshed, but the 
 late governor behaved very wisely, and introduced his suc- 
 cessor himself. A large body of men had opposed his entry 
 to the district, and three men were killed ; but ultimately 
 the governor was allowed to proceed, leaving behind the 
 chief of the Abd el Hadi faction, against whom the princi- 
 pal wrath was excited. The chief of the Bashi-Basouks was 
 also superseded, and in an interview with his successor, drew 
 his sword, wounded him, and fled. Now, the rival factions 
 of Abd el Hadi and Tokan are calling in the aid of the Arabs, 
 and there are great reports of the mustering of forces, and of 
 impending disturbances. It is very pitiable to see the mise- 
 rable peasantry victimised by their ignorant and wicked 
 chiefs. The Turkish force in the country is considered too 
 small to check these troubles, and an occupation by French 
 troops is spoken of/' 
 
 After speaking of an outrage, most probably committed by 
 Moslems, but for which the Greek Christians in Kephidim 
 were attacked, he says : 
 
 "The Rephidim people came to me to help them, so I 
 wrote to the consul, and afterwards called on the Greek 
 convent, to press their taking the matter up warmly. The 
 pacha promised to look after the matter, but the result is as 
 yet nothing. The Rephidim people are angry with the con- 
 vent. The priests are talking boldly of reforms in the Church, 
 and if it were wished by us, a large number would at once 
 declare themselves Protestants. In fact, before this one of 
 the priests wanted to declare himself, with a number of his 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 491 
 
 people, but I dissuaded him. These poor villagers are also 
 oppressed in various ways by the Moslems. For instance, 
 every now and then a man called their sheik demands five or 
 ten pounds as a contribution for some such cause as the 
 marriage of his son, &c. It is very painful that such things 
 should be, and I do trust the British government will be 
 informed of them. A little pressure from that quarter would 
 quickly set things to rights. The apathy of the pacha is more 
 in fault than the want of men. 
 
 " As a specimen of the state of the Christians here take 
 the following occurrence : Some months ago, a communica- 
 tion was privately made to me that a man of some influence 
 and family amongst the Greeks would become Protestant if 
 he could borrow 300 at moderate interest, and give security 
 
 for the money. I declared the transaction to be a sin 
 
 This man, and a party of twenty of the Greeks, went to the 
 patriarch at Jerusalem to become Latins ; they will probably 
 get their price. The cause of this is twofold ; one is, that 
 they are dissatisfied with the appointment of the tribute ; 
 another, that the chief man is in financial difficulties, and 
 wants to borrow a sum of money. I hope that by this time 
 we have got rid of most of this class. It is true that last 
 week I had to advance about 3 to help to pay some taxes 
 out of about 8, charged on the community. I believe the 
 people have not the means of paying ; besides now, for the 
 second time in six months, a year's tribute is demanded, and 
 another year will shortly be claimed, because the collection 
 has been neglected for three years, and of course the people 
 have never thought of keeping the money in hand, living as 
 they do from hand to mouth. It is the same with the 
 
492 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 haratch, a poll-tax, which is now abolished, but here there 
 are three years of arrears to pay. The Christians are all 
 in great consternation because they will have to contribute 
 to the conscription. These are some of the things that 
 trouble us ; they are what our people think most about. 
 Nazareth is much more heavily taxed than this place. 
 
 "On Easter-Sunday I had two infant baptisms, which 
 were performed by immersion in a large earthen pan, a 
 practice not only more rubrical, but especially suited to the 
 prejudices of the Greeks, who cannot in many cases be 
 persuaded that sprinkling is baptism. On Whit- Sunday, I 
 had another baptism. On the day I returned here, one of 
 our best members, Said Cawar, was severely tried by the 
 death of his eldest son, a child of about five years old, who 
 had died of measles ; he had lost a younger one about six 
 months ago, and the people were afraid to tell him of it, as 
 he was out at the time, and had left the house under the 
 impression the child was better. I was obliged to break the 
 mournful intelligence to him, and his grief was very touch- 
 ing, expressed in the oriental way of tearing his garments, 
 weeping aloud, and crying, ' My son, my son ! ' but this 
 violent display seemed, at all events, to enable him to get 
 more quickly through, and in a short time he became com- 
 posed and resigned. As his wife and father are still Greeks, 
 the funeral was in the Greek burial-ground, and I went to the 
 church with it. The ceremony was long and unintelligible, 
 candles were lit, and at the last the gospels were placed on 
 the body, instead of the picture of the Virgin, as usual. 
 Many kissed the book, others the little corpse, which was in 
 an open coffin. That morning, the people of Kephidim 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 493 
 
 had brought me a lamb ; I was in duty bound to give an 
 invitation, and this also suited well with the custom of 
 inviting the friends of the deceased ; so I had a large party, 
 the Greek priests to the number of five, thirty guests from 
 the town of Rephidim, the Chojabashee of the Greeks, with 
 two or three others of my friends amongst them, and all the 
 Protestants. Knives and forks were needless ; some goodly 
 piles of rice, and pieces of the meet seethed in milk scattered 
 over them, were speedily devoured. The entertainment was 
 on the terrace ; the Greek priest stood up at the end and 
 repeated a long grace, praying for a blessing on the mas- 
 ter of the house, concluding with the sigh of the cross over 
 the remainder of the repast; the prayer was a good one. 
 When will the time come for the Greeks to expurgate their 
 Church? 
 
 "Since I have been here, my congregation has not in- 
 creased in permanent members ; I trust that those we have 
 are learning something. They are, for the most part, regular 
 in attending the services, but some are frequently absent in 
 the valleys, engaged in selling silver ornaments to the pea- 
 sants, most of our people being occupied in the wretched 
 silver trade of the country. Last Sunday, we had a larger 
 attendance of women than I ever remember to have seen, 
 the children were a little noisy. I still find myself deficient 
 in words for preaching, and fear I do not make my meaning- 
 clear; the utter want of education, too, especially amongst the 
 women, makes it still more difficult for them to understand 
 any word or expression not belonging to every-day life. 
 Some of the women are now learning to read. 
 
 " Our industrial schemes drag on slowly ; the last part of 
 
494 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 the olive-press was only brought up from Jaffa a week or 
 two ago. Next year I hope better things. The weather is 
 very hot, sirocco winds, the natives complaining much; 
 it is also Kamadan, the Moslems very cross in the afternoon. 
 If an unhappy Christian offends them, curses are liberally 
 bestowed on him, his father, his religion, his sect, and its 
 Chief. As the funeral procession of Said's son was passing, 
 a Moslem cursed and insulted it ; we proposed to take the 
 matter up, I for the sake of the Greeks, they for my honour ; 
 the delinquent fled to the cadi for protection, and humbly 
 begged pardon, promising not to transgress again, for which 
 he pledged his head. The Moslem chiefs in the town were 
 very civil. May the Lord bring good out of all, and give us 
 grace to be faithful and diligent ! Yours very faithfully, 
 
 " JOHN Bo WEN/' 
 
 TO MAJOE STEAITH.. 
 
 " NABLOUS, August 6, 1855. 
 
 " MY DEAE MAJOE STEAITH, .- . . . I have been disap- 
 pointed in the matter of a house. The one I expected to get 
 is still occupied, and I have not yet been able to find one 
 suitable. I think it will be well to take a house that would 
 be sufficient for a small missionary family. The usual mode 
 of letting here is paying the rent for four or five years in 
 advance ; and the possession of this sum of money is the 
 chief inducement to let. Houses are not built for the sake 
 of letting, but house-owners like to get a good sum of money 
 to trade with, or to relieve themselves from debt. I rather 
 suspect that the agent of the Greek convent is intriguing to 
 prevent our getting a house, and will partly frighten and 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 495 
 
 partly bribe the owners of any house that we might be in 
 treaty for. In a closely-crowded town with very narrow 
 filthy streets, it is desirable that a missionary should have a 
 good roomy airy dwelling-house. 
 
 " I have not yet had a report of the result of the cultiva- 
 tion at Nazareth. The olive-press will, I hope, soon be 
 fairly tried, as the crop of olives is coming on, and we are 
 getting everything into proper order. The best thing I have 
 tried seems to be the rag trade. That has really given em- 
 ployment to several poor people, chiefly of the Greek con- 
 gregation, who have been collecting, and I am now preparing 
 the articles for shipment. It has been rather a subject of 
 amusement, and I hope soon to place the trade in a fair way, 
 so that I can give it into the hands of some one who may 
 make a profit of it. I pay about 2d. for six pounds. What 
 are coarse, white, or coloured rags worth in London ? per- 
 haps I may send you a consignment ! 
 
 "Next, I want some money. I think 1 shall draw 50 
 for this ; perhaps you will accept my bill, and if it is dis- 
 allowed, I must refund. Part of this I wish to lend to poor 
 tradesmen on tolerably safe security. With part I may 
 purchase a couple of mules or horses to work the En.iili.sli 
 plough ; and if we can be safe from the Arabs, may make 
 good preparations for a crop next year, and do something in 
 that way. 
 
 " I am planning a rather long excursion. I hope to meet 
 a sister at Alexandria about the 18th September, and I may 
 see her as far as Suez on her way to India. Thence return- 
 ing to Alexandria, I think of going to Constantinople to stay 
 about a fortnight. I hope to see what change has taken 
 
496 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 place in the missionary aspect of things since I was there 
 last; also to endeavour to impress on Lord Stratford the 
 horrible state of this country. During the last week we 
 heard again of several bloody frays. One between the Arabs 
 and the villagers at the foot of the mountains towards Jaffa ; 
 from twelve to fifteen were killed. Another at Bern, on the 
 road to Jerusalem, where the people of the village fought 
 amongst themselves ; on which occasion it is said that eight 
 were killed. No camels go hence to Jaffa just now, and 
 consequently my weekly post pays its own expenses, as the 
 ragged messenger carrying nothing but letters passes safely. 
 An Arab chief seized a number of the people of the country 
 between this and Jacob's well, and kept them several days, 
 until the governor released them. Another man of Kephidim 
 has also been killed by assassins ; the authorities are be- 
 ginning at length to talk of doing them justice. The 
 Protestant movement there did not come to anything ; in 
 fact, it was not sufficiently founded on faith, and the worldly 
 influences of intimidation and money being brought into 
 full play, the greater part of them returned to their old faith. 
 The two poor priests were sadly tried ; they had some 
 glimpses of the truth, but could not bear to be forsaken by 
 most of their flock, and they had not faith to meet the 
 uncertain worldly prospect before them. When called before 
 the governor, and desired to say what sect they followed, 
 they answered, 'The evangelical;' they did not want to be 
 called Greeks or English. Some of the Moslem chiefs were 
 particularly zealous in begging them to return to their ancient 
 faith for the sake of their beards ; an appeal the poor priests 
 could no longer resist, so they said they were Greek. Several 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 497 
 
 of the poor people were indignant at this, and at once came 
 to our worship in this town, but, alas ! they are very ignorant, 
 and it is difficult to reach their understanding. Yesterday, I 
 was much interested in one poor fellow, who came to me and 
 spent some time in reading part of the ' Pilgrim's Progress ' 
 aloud. He read very badly, but shewed some capacity for 
 understanding the allegory ; sundry parts appeared to puzzle 
 him. He did not seem to get much notion of the slough of 
 despond 
 
 " This letter will give you a little peep of how things are 
 going on in general. The work of preaching here is simply 
 a routine, and people seem, I think, more attentive, but are 
 much troubled about worldly matters. Our congregation is 
 almost stationary. The Greeks hold themselves more aloof 
 under the influence of the Shemnos Niphon, the agent of the 
 convent, who was at first friendly, but now keeps at a dis- 
 tance. This man intrigues much among the Moslem chiefs, 
 and these are a little troubled that they get no presents from 
 the English, while the Greeks give much. The men in power 
 are afraid of the English, but love the money of the Greeks. 
 The general state of tilings is most depressing; the wi<-k(.<l- 
 ness, corruption, bribery, selfish worldliness, and petty intrigue, 
 make up a most melancholy picture of fallen human nature. 
 Wlu-n will the curse be removed? 
 
 " Sir Moses Montefiore is now in Jerusalem doing some- 
 thing for the Jews. I trust you have more encourauini; news 
 from other parts of the mission-field. May God give us grace 
 to be more earnest and faithful in the work of preaching the 
 gospel to the few who will listen to us, Believe me, my 
 
 dear major, yours faithfully, JOHN BOWEX." 
 
 2i 
 
498 THE MISSION AEY. 
 
 Speaking of going to Jerusalem in September, he says : 
 
 " It is rather a fatiguing ride over rocks and stones, and 
 through close valleys, but I have a good horse, and our blessed 
 Lord used to walk over these sand tracks. He might well 
 have been wearied when he sat by Jacob's well. 
 
 " I have taken an addition to my house, and have one very 
 nice room, with a fine view of the town and hills on either 
 side. This morning, the sun rose right in the gap, and 
 reminded me of the words of Moses respecting these two 
 mountains, ' Are they not on the other side Jordan, by the 
 way whence the sun goeth down ? ' As I sit and look out of 
 three sides, I see the gray limestone of the hills, spotted with 
 the green of the olive and prickly pear, almost shutting out 
 the sky, which appears over their long ridges/' 
 
 In September, Mr Bowen made another journey to Egypt, 
 for the purpose of meeting one of his sisters on her way to 
 India, but, unfortunately arrived at Alexandria just twelve 
 hours after she had left it, owing to the Austrian steamer 
 having failed to keep her time. Finding that there was no 
 particular work to detain him there, he decided on returning 
 to Nablous at once. This he felt was now his sphere of duty, 
 and thither he went, resisting the strong desire he naturally 
 felt to visit what was then the battle-field of Europe, and 
 where, too, all his sympathies and interests were for the time 
 called forth. But the work of his own mission could not 
 then proceed without him ; the agricultural schemes at 
 Nazareth were not prospering, and no one except himself 
 could manage the oil-press at Nablous. 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 499 
 
 TO MAJOR STEAITH. 
 
 "NABLOUS, November 6, 1855. 
 
 " . . . . The report that I shall be able to send on agri- 
 cultural and industrial matters will be a very meagre one, 
 and I certainly think it will not justify us in asking for any 
 more money, though I hope that what remains may be so 
 used as to replenish the fund in some degree. 
 
 " As to the thrashing machine, that is a private speculation 
 of my own. It arrived too late to give it a trial, and it must 
 wait till next year. It is at Jaffa, and any enterprising 
 individual may be able to take the first part of the harvest 
 next year on the plain of Sharon, or in the valley of the 
 Jordan, if they carry it up there. 
 
 " The olive-crusher was set up last year, but the presses 
 did not arrive in time to be used. This year we intended to 
 start all right with the season ; there was a little delay, owing 
 to my having gone to Egypt, for without me, they could not 
 put in a single lever. Notwithstanding all hindrances, we 
 were at last ready, and a few dry withered olives were 
 brought. A\'L- had great difficulty at first with the animals, 
 which are not trained to draw, but we soon shewed that we 
 could make much more oil from a given quantity, than by 
 the ordinary machines. Our difficulties with the animals 
 still continue ; as soon as one shewed some capability of 
 working, the owner demanded an exhorbitant price, so we 
 had to buy and train another ; then we broke a part of the 
 machine, mended it by various expedients, and then broke 
 the centre of a principal cog-wheel, and had to melt brass 
 around it to keep it together. Last week we were started 
 
500 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 again, our horses being in better training, and to-day (Nov. 
 12) we are doing business, though I hope to increase the 
 rapidity of the work. I was obliged to send for Metzler 
 from Nazareth to superintend it, for I could not leave it 
 with the natives. Three of our congregation at present 
 work it. Our principal member here, Aoudie Assan, in 
 concert with the Samaritan high priest, purchased the place 
 in which it stands, and they, having some capital, and the 
 priest having undertaken to superintend the oil, are to have 
 half the profit ; one quarter goes to Metzler for the work, 
 and the other quarter to the machine ; whether there will be 
 much above the working expenses this year, I do not know. 
 We propose taking half the increase of oil, i.e., to give the 
 proprietors ten per cent, more oil than they would get else- 
 where, and to take ten per cent, in money or oil for our 
 trouble. The system here is to take olives to a press, the 
 owner of which gives the oil which comes out first to the 
 owner of the olives, and all the oil that they can get after 
 a second grinding and preparing goes to the owner of 
 the press ; of course they give as little of the oil as they 
 can. This machine has occasioned a great deal of trouble. 
 I have had to work hard at it, recalling my days in 
 America; the difficulties now seem overcome, and I hope 
 we shall have no accidents. It has been a lesson of patience 
 and perseverance to our people, and an example of manual 
 labour to which they are very averse. One Protestant, a 
 brother of the schoolmaster, has shewn a remarkable degree 
 of intelligence, cheerfulness, and patience. I hope to be able 
 to give him good wages. The working of such a machine is 
 useful, as it requires the exercise of smartness and care, and 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 501 
 
 will have a good moral effect. It would take too long to 
 dwell on all the hindrances we have met ; they arose chiefly 
 from the total want of experience on the part of all parties. 
 
 " As to the ploughs at Nazareth, I tried them for three or 
 four hours on the plain of Esdraelon, and found they did good 
 work ; but it would require some days, and much work and 
 patience to teach a native, and I have never been able to be 
 at Nazareth since. The oxen have been let out on shares 
 again this year. They are put out in another village because 
 Nazareth is too far from the plain. This is simply the na- 
 tive way, and will not be in accordance with ours. As to 
 the moral results of our experiments, you know the cry was, 
 ' Poor people ! wanting work/ Now, though very few of our 
 own sect have been employed, it has had the effect of shutting 
 their mouths, as they begin to understand that money is not 
 to be given, but earned, so they are now diligent at their old 
 trades. 
 
 " As to other matters we go on in a routine. Now and 
 then a remark is made that gives me hope. A few weeks 
 ago some seemed to feel the stinging of God's law ; but we 
 have no proofs as yet of the power of the gospel in their 
 hearts. A few seem to be leading consistent lives, and con- 
 fess their former sins. The English consular agent, Aoudie 
 Assan, who was the first of them, gives me great satisfaction, 
 and -so does Said Cawar, a merchant here. I am sorry to 
 say that I have rather neglected the school of late, owing to 
 the oil-pres.s, from which I hoped every day to get free ; and 
 now I think they can get on without me, so that I purpose 
 this week going to Nazareth. 
 
 "I am meditating a journey as far north as Latakia. Mr 
 
502 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 Lyde, who is seeking an opening among the Anzayri, having 
 asked me to come and consult about his work, which he 
 thinks is hopeful, I have not quite decided when to start, but 
 I hope to go to Beyrout by land, and to visit Acre and Tyre, 
 where there is a work going on. 
 
 " The district here is quieter, except that the road to Salt 
 is closed by a quarrel amongst the Arabs. We have a de- 
 tachment of Turkish troops in the town just now. We have 
 also had cases of suspected cholera, which has been bad in 
 Galilee. 
 
 " Our friend Aoudie Assan makes himself very active, as 
 consular agent, in protecting oppressed persons, by speaking 
 to the governor, and writing to the English consul at Jeru- 
 salem, who gives him much support. The consequence is 
 that the cadi and mufti are much displeased, and say, ' Islam 
 is dead ;' and will try, I fear, to injure him ; while, on the 
 other hand, a poor man, a Moslem, who was tyrannically 
 beaten the other day, cried out before the divan, ' I have 
 abandoned Islam, and have become a Christian.' This he 
 said in his wrath, having no notion of what Christianity was. 
 Aoudie says, ' Many who used to curse us, now come and ask 
 our help.' The persecuting bigotry of the Moslem is passing 
 away. 
 
 " I have been obliged to write this irregularly, having often 
 been called to go and look at one thing or another in the 
 press, of which by this time you must be tired. Yours faith- 
 fully, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 A regular missionary was now appointed by the C.M.S. to 
 Nablous, and Mr Bowen prepared to take a final leave of the 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 503 
 
 East. He furnished the house he had taken for his succes- 
 sor, providing for him many English comforts he had de- 
 nied to himself, such as tables, chairs, crockery, knives and 
 forks, &c., and also believing that it would raise the position 
 of the missionary to live in a more English style. Having 
 arranged carefully all the details of the mission, he bade 
 farewell to his friends at Nablous, and wrote a summary of 
 the state of affairs from Jerusalem . 
 
 TO THE SECRETARIES OF THE C.M.S. 
 
 'JanuargZl, 1856. 
 
 " My DEAR SIRS, An unusual series of interruptions has 
 prevented my sitting down to prepare, as I could wish, a 
 report of the state of your mission at Nablous ; and though 
 my letter must now be brief, I am unwilling to let another 
 post go without some notice of the congregation there. It 
 will be borne in mind, that for the greater part of the period 
 that elapsed between Mr Kruse's departure and my arrival, 
 services had been regularly conducted by Michael Cawar, a 
 Scripture-reader or catechist appointed by the Bishop a 
 native of Nazareth, of a highly respectable family, whom I 
 had formerly known as a merchant at Haifa, and an earnest 
 searcher of Holy Writ. After Mr Kruse' left, there was a 
 bitter persecution of the Protestants, and many of the Mos- 
 lems were bribed to assist in it. However, by the interfer- 
 ence of the British consul at Jerusalem, and the good sense 
 and friendship of two or three influential Moslems, the diffi- 
 culties were got over, and they were allowed to live in peace, 
 and to meet for worship without molestation. Two respect- 
 able individuals joined the evangelical community at this 
 
504 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 time. Since my residence amongst them, services have been 
 regularly conducted. At first Michael Cawar always preached, 
 but in a few months I took my share in that department ; 
 since then he has frequently been absent at Jerusalem, and 
 latterly in Mount Lebanon, from which he has just returned. 
 During my frequent occasional absences, the services have 
 been conducted by the schoolmaster, of whose sincere Chris- 
 tianity I have much hope. 
 
 " The statistics of the mission are as follow : Communi- 
 cants, 21 ; average congregation, 30. The average of the 
 morning attendance would be more. Four of the communi- 
 cants are women. The number of children on the register 
 is 64 ; the average daily attendance, 45. Twenty-eight of 
 these are Moslem boys, who come in the afternoon to learn 
 writing, to which attention is confined during the latter part 
 of the day. The sole result at present of their being in the 
 school is the conciliating the goodwill of the Mohammedans 
 a great point in so bigoted a town. 
 
 " The congregation has scarcely increased during the year ; 
 a few, whom I do not look upon as settled, have joined them- 
 selves to us, and a few waverers have left. I fear that I can- 
 not speak quite satisfactorily respecting the spiritual state of 
 most of our regular attendants. They attend the services, 
 make the responses with zeal, and, for the most part, listen 
 with attention to the foreign accent of the preacher ; they 
 frequently remark on the sermon, and a few give evidence of 
 a desire to walk according to the will of Christ, and shew 
 some sense of the guilt of sin. All are theoretically con- 
 vinced of the importance of living according to the precepts 
 of the gospel ; but they find it difficult to break off what 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 505 
 
 \ 
 
 are called by some of them venial sins. The use of profane 
 language, or thoughtless employment of religious sayings, 
 has become ingrained in their ordinary phraseology, and 
 they find it hard to change their common mode of speaking. 
 Lying is so universal that it is commonly believed to be 
 necessary, even at times justifiable, for which Scripture is 
 misquoted. There is, nevertheless, a marked improvement 
 in these points, though many of our brethren are still very 
 weak 
 
 " Certain portions of the Bible have been regularly gone 
 through at our classes, which are held twice a week, and I 
 trust with some profit. A good feeling has been cultivated 
 with the Moslems, many of whom have been used to meet 
 at my house ; but discussions on religion have not occurred 
 as much of late as at first. So far, at least, as the comfort 
 of the missionary is concerned, a considerable change has 
 taken place ; for I am no longer insulted in the streets, as 
 was often the case at first. A very suitable residence has 
 been procured, more, in fact, than a single man would re- 
 quire ; but the possession of the house will be useful in many 
 respects. 
 
 " I have had constant intercourse with the Samaritan 
 priest on worldly and spiritual things ; he has much know- 
 ledge, but wants the principle to act on his convictions, and 
 thoroughly to inquire after the Messiah. Ly mean.s of the 
 oil-press, it is hoped that the idea that working is better 
 than begging has been impressed on many, and I trust that 
 in general the mission has a healthy aspect. Many amongst 
 the Greeks are, I believe, convinced that the truth is with 
 us, but the interests of this world prevent their confessing 
 
506 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 it. They now avoid discussions as much as possible, having, 
 no doubt, been forbidden to hold them. 
 
 "The country round Nablous has been the theatre of 
 anarchy, and at least three hundred or four hundred men 
 have been killed in feuds and fights with the Arabs in the 
 course of the year. May the Lord soon shew His power, and 
 put an end to these things ! 
 
 " I took a tour to Latakia to visit Mr Lyde, who is com- 
 mencing a mission amongst the Anzayri. I felt deeply the 
 importance of the work in which he is engaged. 
 
 " God willing, I shall leave Jaffa for England February 8th, 
 and trust to be in England early in March. I remain, &c., 
 
 " JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 Soon after writing this letter Mr Bowen went down to 
 Jaffa, and thence to Alexandria, where he finally decided on 
 going to Constantinople, which place he reached February 
 26th. He was again received with the greatest kindness at 
 the British Embassy. Of this he writes as follows : 
 
 " Considering the bustling times, this was much more than 
 I expected. Lady Stratford was just the same as ever full 
 of kindness ; and though Lord Stratford was confined to his 
 bed, I was asked up to see him. It was very interesting 
 to hear the ambassador speak of the public affairs of this 
 country ; and I felt surprised that he should be accused of 
 being proud and haughty, when he would enter so conde- 
 scendingly into conversation with me. 
 
 " A firman has been issued, declaring the equality of all 
 the Sultan's subjects, which it is hoped will have very im- 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 507 
 
 portant results ; but the regeneration of this country is a 
 fearful task. There are, indeed, some openings for good ; yet 
 it will take a long time, humanly speaking, to leaven the 
 masses of the people with anything like Christianity ; and 
 without that, very little practical good can be done." 
 
 From Constantinople Mr Bo wen went on to the Crimea, 
 and visited Balaklava and the British army before Sebastopol, 
 spending a few days with a friend in the camp. He remained 
 too short a time to make or receive much impression there, 
 and soon returning to the Sublime Porte, wrote as follows to 
 Mr Venn : 
 
 "CONSTANTINOPLE, March 31, 1856. 
 
 " MY DEAE MR VENN, You will have been at a loss to 
 know what has become of me ; and truly I must confess I 
 have been somewhat of a truant. After reaching Alexandria, 
 I determined to come on here, and see what could be learned ; 
 and when here, it was, of course, natural that I should wish 
 to have a look at the Crimea, from which place I returned 
 yesterday week, the transport by which I came having gone 
 round by Odessa to bring away prisoners Turkish, French, 
 and a few English 
 
 " I am sorry to see the attacks that have lately been made 
 on our ambassador, and I believe there is a sinister object in 
 them which few people suspect. It is no doubt to be re- 
 gretted that the despatches were not acknowledged, but they 
 poured in many of them in one day, and very likely there 
 was some feeling of annoyance on the part of Lord Stratford. 
 At all events, this silence ceased in December 1854, and 
 Williams only went to Erzeroum in September, and Lord 
 
508 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 Stratford could therefore have nothing to do with the fall of 
 Kars. When we remember to what straits seven miles 
 reduced us last year, we see how difficult it must have been 
 for Turks to supply and relieve Kars at many days' distance 
 from the sea, and in a not very productive country, already 
 overrun by large armies. Yet the blame is laid on Lord 
 Stratford, as if he were omnipotent over the Turks and the 
 roads. I believe that the real object of these attacks is to 
 get rid of him. They seem to be set on foot by the French 
 party here, who have, he believes, carried things with too 
 high a hand, and to whom our Government have needlessly 
 truckled 
 
 " The new hati-shereeff is looked upon coldly by the Greeks 
 and Komanists here, because they dislike its sound toleration, 
 which is considered too favourable to Protestantism. ' That 
 no man can be subject to violence in respect of a change of 
 his religion ' is what they do not like. I wish the public 
 mind could be put a little right on this point, on which I 
 have written more than I intended. 
 
 " I hope, while waiting here, to learn more of the prospects 
 of the Turkish mission, which is very difficult, as I do not 
 know the language. A Moslem woman stated the other day 
 at an English house, that some women of her acquaintance 
 had been taken she knew not where by some Komanist sisters, 
 and she believed baptized. 
 
 " I mean to stay a fortnight in France on my way home, 
 and hope to be in England by the end of April, if God will. 
 Yours faithfully, JOHN BOWEN." 
 
 The mission at Nablous did not prosper. After Mr 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 509 
 
 Bowen left, the mind which had guided it was removed. 
 The Protestants fell off and began to quarrel among them- 
 selves. We must acknowledge also, that too much had been 
 taken in hand for any other man to carry out, when we 
 consider the many plans for improvement which had been 
 commenced. In addition to the oil-press, agriculture, and 
 rag trade, mentioned in the foregoing letters, Mr BoVen had 
 a loom out from Knaresborough, which was given by his old 
 parishioners for the people of Nablous, and with all these 
 things the one great end was always the first and paramount 
 object of his work to make known to sinners Christ Jesus 
 as their Saviour. The amount of practical information which 
 he gathered respecting the country was very remarkable, as 
 we see from the letters he wrote to Mr Hugh Jones, who had 
 applied to him for information when he wished to set on foot 
 some scheme for the cultivation of Palestine. In these letters 
 we can trace the close attention which was paid to every 
 business detail, and. the accurate observations made on the 
 country, its soil, and productions, as well as its inhabitants. 
 In addition to evil results from the disputes among the Pro- 
 testants themselves, the mission at Nablous was almost 
 destroyed by a fearful outbreak of the Moslems against the 
 Christians, principally occasioned by the wrath excited at the 
 new finnan which granted equality of rights to all the sub- 
 jects of tlio Sultan, but ultimately called forth on account of 
 an accident which happened to the Rev. Mr Lyde, missionary 
 to the Anzayri. That <rentk-mun was Parting from Nablous 
 on horseback, armed with a gun, which is absolutely necessary 
 in a country where even the fellah works in the fields with 
 his weapon beside him. He was followed by a dumb man, 
 
510 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 a sort of idiot, and a Moslem of the town, who seized the 
 bridle of his horse, and the muzzle of his gun ; the piece 
 went off, and the man was killed on the spot. 
 
 Mr Lyde, much distressed at the accident, immediately 
 returned to the town, and was conducted before the governor, 
 who summoned the maglis or council to consider what course 
 to pursue. The members did not attend in sufficient num- 
 bers, and it was decided t to meet after the noonday prayers. 
 
 Meanwhile, there began to be considerable excitement in 
 the town ; and cries of " God is great ! " " The religion of 
 Mohammed is in danger ! " were heard in every quarter. 
 Some of the fanatical party went to the various mosques as 
 the muezzins were calling to the Friday noonday prayer, and 
 made the criers descend from the minarets. The people 
 came together, wondering at the cessation of the usual cries. 
 They were prevented from entering the mosques, and were 
 told that " Islam was dead ; " " That they should go pray with 
 the Christian priests and consular agents ;" to this was added, 
 " If you be Moslems, manifest the religion of Mohammed." 
 
 Exasperated by this, a mob attacked the house of the 
 Trench consular agent, and the schoolhouse which has been 
 so often mentioned. They went on to the house of the 
 agent of the Greek convent, and the English consular agent, 
 where they murdered an old man of the Greek Church. 
 They then proceeded to the house which had been occupied 
 by Mr Bowen ; fortunately the missionary, Mr Zeller, was 
 absent, but they severely wounded his servant, and plun- 
 dered in every direction, breaking and destroying what they 
 could not carry away. As the greater part of the furniture, 
 books, &c., was Mr Bowen's, his loss on this occasion was 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 511 
 
 very considerable ; he was in England at the time, and ap- 
 plied to the English Government to obtain redress, but 
 owing to some delay, our Government made no stir in the 
 matter, and, meanwhile, the Prussian authorities obtained 
 an order from the Porte that the town of Nablous should 
 pay a compensation to Mr Zeller, who was their subject, and 
 to Mr Bowen for the losses sustained by them in the out- 
 break. As usual, in that country, the order was of little 
 avail. The authorities of Nablous intimidated the principal 
 Protestants into signing a paper stating that they had re- 
 ceived the money for Mr Bowen, which was all that was 
 done, as neither they nor Mr Bowen ever received one piastre 
 of it. 
 
 Many affirmed that if Mr Bowen had been there the out- 
 break would never have taken place, for the influence of his 
 character had not only been felt by his own followers, but 
 even Greeks, Samaritans, and the cadi himself had been 
 good friends with him, and were in the habit of seeking his 
 advice ami assistance from time to time. 
 
 We cannot say what might have been, but we know that 
 God sees not as man sees, and works out His purposes even 
 when all seems against them. 
 
 It is very striking to remark the impression left by Mr 
 Bowen wherever he went that he was the very man best 
 suited to that place. Many appeals were made to him to 
 return to Palestine, but the way was never opened to him 
 again. 
 
 On looking over his letters, we find very warm expressions 
 of affection from the Arab Christians, and the American 
 missionaries, as well as those connected with his own Church ; 
 
512 THE MISSIONAEY. 
 
 but we shall content ourselves with giving a short extract 
 from one written by the Bishop of Jerusalem after Bishop 
 Bowen had laid down his life in his Master's cause : 
 
 " Mr Bowen was a great favourite with all parties in this 
 country both Europeans and natives ; and many regretted, 
 and regret to this day, his leaving this land, never to re- 
 turn; no one more than myself, for he was just the man 
 wanted. At the time of his first visit to Palestine, in 
 1849-51, he did not care much for the study of the lan- 
 guage ; but during his stay at Nablous, in 3854-55, though 
 he did what he could to ameliorate the moral and physical 
 condition of the people around him, Christians, Moslems, 
 and Samaritans, he studied the Arabic, and so far mastered 
 it, that for some time before leaving he could preach with 
 fluency and effect in that difficult tongue ; so that when he 
 delivered his farewell sermon at Nablous, all his hearers 
 were moved to tears, (which is a very rare thing among the 
 native Arabs,) although they expected him to return. 
 
 "For my part, I have never been intimately acquainted 
 with any man possessing so many Christian graces in such 
 a high degree complete disinterestedness, manly humility, 
 unwavering faith, warm affection for his friends, unfeigned 
 love to all men, deep sympathy with all kinds of suffering, 
 burning zeal and untiring activity in his Master's service, a 
 constant readiness to help with word and deed whenever he 
 thought that his advice or his hand might be of service to 
 any one ; yet with all this, he was ever simple and cheerful as a 
 child. As we suffered a great loss when he left this country, 
 so the mission and church at Sierra Leone, and the Church 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 513 
 
 at large, have suffered an almost irreparable loss. Whilst to 
 him to live was Christ, to die could not but prove an ever- 
 lasting gain. Wherefore, although to his relatives his death 
 is a great loss and trial, yet you have the consolation to know 
 that if any of our generation has lived and died in the Lord, 
 and is now resting from his work, it is your and my brother, 
 John Bowen. Yours very faithfully, 
 
 "S. ANGL. HIEROSOL." 
 
 One letter more will close his Eastern life: 
 
 "BRITISH EMBASSY, PERA, March 25, 1862. 
 
 "MY DEAR FRIEND, In the month of January 185C, 
 while your brother was still in Syria, my generous and 
 warm-hearted friend, John Burns of Glasgow, most kindly 
 invited me to accompany him, as his guest, and at his sole 
 expense, on a tour to Egypt, the Holy Land, and the 
 Crimea. His handsome offer was thankfully accepted. We 
 left England on the 8th of February. Alexander Ewing 
 was of the party. I cherished the hope of finding John 
 Bowen in Syria, and we counted on the pleasure of visiting 
 sacred spots under his experienced guidance. As we entered 
 the harbour of Alexandria, a steamer bound to Constan- 
 tinople passed us. On landing, I inquired of Mr Burns's 
 agent if he knew anything of Mr Bowen's movements. Yes ; 
 he had left an hour before for Constantinople, en route to 
 England. It was a great disappointment. We made the 
 acquaintance of Mr Bruce, then consul-general, of Mr Green, 
 consul, and of many other notables in Egypt. On one and 
 all your brother had left the impress of his powerful and 
 
 sincere mind. 
 
 2K 
 
514 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 "In Jerusalem he was quoted and referred to as an 
 authority. In Tiberias we heard stories of his extraordinary 
 power of visiting the people, of conversing with them in 
 their own tongue, and of the reverence and love which 
 Mohammedans and Christians felt towards 'Priest John.' 
 At Shumlan, (Mr Scott's,) his name brought up tears to the 
 eyes of the lady, and a loving expression from the lips of 
 her husband. 
 
 "In Constantinople, where I now write, his memory is 
 fresh and sweet ' as the dew which now falls on the grass 
 o'er his head.' Noble fellow ! whether in the palace with 
 Lord de Betcliffe, then Sir Stratford Canning, or visiting 
 the engineers at Haskeroi with Lady Canning, or in the 
 hospital by the side of sick seamen, or on board vessels in 
 the harbour, he was always the ready-minded, gentlemanly, 
 warm-souled Christian man, commending religion to ungodly 
 men by his sincerity, tact, and freedom from all cant, and 
 leaving an impress upon many whose names, though some 
 of them appear in his journal, I may not mention. And 
 the impression he has left here is of the true character. 
 Although your brother had considerable talents, yet it is not 
 as a man of talent, although he had comparative wealth, it 
 is not as a rich man, although he was young and hand- 
 some, it is not for his personal appearance that men (and, 
 I suppose I must add, ladies) speak of him it is as a real 
 servant of Jesus, and a well-wisher to his race, that he is 
 at once and affectionately remembered. 
 
 "The missionaries love his memory. Mrs Schauffler, 
 whose husband's name is honoured where it is known, 
 and that is in no narrow sphere, related to me his energetic 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 515 
 
 conduct in Syria when he saved the life of an American. 
 You have received, I think, a letter containing the particulars 
 of the story. 
 
 " The East, in fact, seemed to be his proper region. If 
 our dear old mother, the Church, had been then as wide 
 awake as she is now in appointing bishops in partibus, she 
 would have made a diocese for such a man, or have found 
 out some thousand or so of English in the East, among 
 whom, and with whose aid, he would have laid a base of 
 operations for useful and healthy action upon the Orientals." 
 
 Mr Bowen was again settled in his parish by July 1856, 
 and resumed his old way of living. His establishment was 
 on the same small scale as before, and, though he was most 
 liberal and hospitable, the smallest portion of his income 
 was certainly spent on himself ; his principal indulgence was 
 giving. He devoted very much of his time to the advocacy 
 of the missionary cause ; and, as his journeys were no ex- 
 peiise to the society, they were glad to employ him as much 
 as possible. Wherever he went for this purpose, he made 
 warm, kind friends ; leaving behind him so bright a re- 
 membrance of his pleasant, cheerful talk and fervent love of 
 God's work, that all who met him wished to have him back 
 again. 
 
 In order to be more at liberty to assist this cause which 
 he had so much at heart, he engaged a curate to help him, 
 so that nothing should be neglected in his parish, small as it 
 was. He still kept a diary, but there is little to interest the 
 general reader in the daily employment of his time. Ever 
 faithful with himself, he never failed to note the faults and 
 
516 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 failings of the day, and humbly to record the mercies of 
 God. We shall give one short extract : 
 
 "January 1st, 1857. Spared by Thy mercy, Lord, I en- 
 ter on another year. Much have I to acknowledge, much to 
 deplore. Enable me to overcome the indolence that is steal- 
 ing over me, to be more diligent in mental improvement, to 
 give way less to mere conversation, to be more earnest and 
 faithful in pastoral ministrations. How little do we know 
 what this year may bring forth, yet all shall be for His 
 glory/' 
 
 This was to be the most memorable year of his life, which, 
 commencing so quietly in his little country parish, with many 
 members of his own family around him, in all the comforts 
 and pleasures of an English home, ended on the fiery shores 
 of Sierra Leone. 
 
 It was early this year that, going to Birmingham for a 
 day, he noticed on the walls a placard stating that some real 
 Bedouin Arabs were to exhibit in a circus that evening. 
 Being anxious to see and converse with these men, and not 
 being able to ascertain where they were to be found, he de- 
 cided, though not without some scruples, to go to the circus 
 to see them there. He waited until the half-price time ; and 
 on going in, found that the Arabs had finished their part, 
 and were sitting in the pit. He approached them, and, stand- 
 ing behind them, saluted them in their own tongue and man- 
 ner, and asked them to make room for him. This they gladly 
 did, not a little astonished at being thus addressed. He 
 found that they were not Syrian Arabs, but from Morocco ; 
 nevertheless, he was able to converse with them, and did not 
 
THE MISSION AEY. 517 
 
 lose the opportunity of speaking to them of their higher in- 
 terests, much grieved that these men should pass through 
 England and never hear the name of Jesus. 
 
 These Arabs, though travelling with an English company, 
 had little or no knowledge of the language, and consequently 
 gained very few ideas of the country, holding intercourse 
 with none except those with whom they had made a tempo- 
 rary engagement. 
 
 Mr Bowen arranged that they should breakfast with him 
 the next morning, and then took them to some of the prin- 
 cipal buildings and factories in Birmingham, explaining to 
 them some of the wonders of British arts and manufac- 
 tures ; and though much pressed with other business at the 
 time, he gave up the whole day to them, returning to his 
 rectory quite late in the evening, in high spirits, and much 
 delighted at his English day with real wild Arabs. 
 
 In the month of June this year, the bishopric of Sierra 
 Leone was offered to him. Its acceptance was too important 
 a step to be at once decided on. He writes : 
 
 ''June IGth. Feel a little anxious to know what my lot 
 is to be. I fear lest desire of station and distinction may 
 mingle with my willingness. Yet I do know how much 
 trouble that appointment will bring, what anxiety, what 
 physical suffering, what annoyances. What .... Yet> 
 Lord, Thy will be done ! " 
 
 His extreme watchfulness over self could alone have de- 
 tected the fear of any desire of station in accepting that 
 bishopric. Those that saw him then could not but feel that 
 in so doing he knew he was sacrificing himself, and giving 
 
518 THE MISSIONAKY. 
 
 up all his most cherished hopes of yet further promoting the 
 cause of missions in the East, for which he was already so 
 well prepared. It was simply a strong sense of duty that 
 induced him to go to Sierra Leone a truer, deeper, more 
 abiding courage than that which leads the warrior to the 
 thickest of the fight, or urges him to advance to the most 
 unequal contest. 
 
 Anxious to spare his family the conflict he underwent, he 
 never told them of the appointment until all was arranged, 
 and he knew it must be in the papers. It was a subject of 
 deep grief to many, especially to those who had known what 
 his work in the East had been. 
 
 " His journeys in various Eastern countries/' remarks Mr 
 Layard, in the conclusion of the letter already given, " his 
 experience of their varied populations, his knowledge of 
 Arabic, and his subsequent residence in Syria in connexion 
 with some of the reformed Christian communities, his high 
 character, his temper, his moderation, and his discretion ; the 
 extreme simplicity of his manners, and the fewness of his 
 wants, all admirably qualified him to be an organ of com- 
 munication between the Church of England, and the Oriental 
 Churches and Christian communities. He had learnt to 
 preach in Arabic with sufficient ease. He was perfectly 
 acquainted with the habits and modes of thought of the 
 people with whom he would have to deal. He was respected 
 and beloved by all who had known him. It was, conse- 
 quently, with no small concern that I learnt he had been 
 offered and had accepted the bishopric of Sierra Leone, and 
 was now to proceed to that fatal spot. It would seem that, 
 by one of those strange perversions of logical deduction that 
 
THE MISSIONARY. 519 
 
 are not uncommon, it was inferred, that because Dr Bowen 
 had been in the East, spoke Arabic, and was acquainted with 
 the manners of the inhabitants of Syria, therefore, he was 
 the fit and proper person to be sent to the black tribes of 
 the western coast of Africa. 
 
 " It appears to have been overlooked that he was a man 
 most qualified for a most important mission ; that he was, 
 as it were, specially set apart for the one, well-defined great 
 work. There ought, then, to have been some hesitation in 
 sacrificing so valuable a life in a field in which very many 
 others were equally competent to labour. I had looked 
 forward to the time when, as Bishop of Jerusalem, Dr 
 Bowen, by his moderation, his experience of Eastern charac- 
 ter, and his Christian forbearance, by his wise and prudent 
 administration, would have rendered inestimable services to 
 Christianity in the East ; and brought about that Christian 
 understanding between the Church of England and the 
 Oriental Churches, which was the principal object of its 
 founders to establish. I know no man who was better 
 fitted for the attainment of these results. He was, empha- 
 tically, the man for this mission. Yet he was sent to die on 
 the coast of Africa. I urged upon him all those arguments, 
 as strongly as I was able, before his departure from this 
 country. But having been summoned to make the great 
 sacrifice of his life, he considered it an imperative duty to 
 obey, and from the calls of duty he never turned. Those 
 who knew his goodness and worth, and how well he was 
 fitted to be useful to his fellow-creatures, will not cease to 
 deplore that so valuable a life was thus comparatively 
 thrown away." 
 
520 THE MISSIONARY. 
 
 No one knew better than John Bowen himself the rea- 
 sons why he should not go to Sierra Leone ; but he knew, 
 too, that the work God gave him to do was the work he 
 must do ; and that, trusting to his Father in heaven, he was 
 willing to go forth like Abraham to the untried land. If he 
 had been thought the very man who could best promote the 
 cause of Christ in the East, the people of Sierra Leone 
 declared that he was the very man to be their Bishop. 
 
 He says to one of his sisters : 
 
 " I did not dare to refuse it, and feel that I could not have 
 been happy if I had rejected it. I know the objections 
 and the difficulties, but I must follow the leadings of God's 
 providence. The 91st Psalm was very precious to me this 
 morning." 
 
 Nothing now remained to be done, but to make his final 
 arrangements and prepare for his departure from his native 
 land. It was necessary first to go to Dublin and take out 
 his doctor's degree, and there he had the pleasure of meeting 
 many old friends again. He was consecrated September 
 21st 1857, by the Archbishop of Canterbury, assisted by the 
 Bishops of Peterborough and Victoria ; the Bishop of Oxford 
 had offered to take part in the ceremony, but was prevented 
 from doing so. 
 
 Dr Bowen had determined to lose no time in proceeding 
 to his diocese, as soon as he could arrange his affairs ; and 
 would have gone a month sooner, if he had not delayed for 
 the purpose of doing an act of kindness ; and this consider- 
 ation for others did not go without its reward. 
 
THE MISSION AEY. 521 
 
 The thought that he went alone very much added to the 
 grief felt by his friends at his departure, and it was the 
 prayer as well as the ardent wish of many that God would 
 provide a wife for him. He felt himself that it would lessen 
 the pang of going if he had a companion in that far land. 
 The very delay mentioned above was the cause of his meeting 
 Miss Catherine Butler, daughter of the late Dean of Peter- 
 borough, at a missionary meeting near his now late parish of 
 Orton-Longueville. She had just left the neighbourhood 
 when he first came to it, and was on a visit there. He soon 
 discovered she was the wife God had provided. He says in 
 a letter to a relative : 
 
 " You will no doubt have heard of poor Hannah's deep 
 affliction, and of that which, I am sorry to say, prevents my 
 sympathising with her as I ought to do. 
 
 " Just as I had given up all hope, and submitted to God's 
 will, in what seemed to me the greatest sacrifice, in going to 
 Sierra Leone, a light has shone upon my path, and an excellent 
 Christian woman has been given to me. The circumstances 
 of our coming together are very providential ; I can clearly 
 trace the hand of God. I had only heard of her this summer, 
 and seen her but three times, yet I know much of her char- 
 acter and sentiments, and was led to seek her ; and she, with 
 a devoted missionary spirit, is ready, and has been in fact 
 already anxious to go to Sierra Leone. 
 
 "I was miserable at leaving Orton and at my Mungo- 
 Park-like state, but I now bless and thank God for His good 
 gift. I am afraid I am not quite episcopal without ' one 
 wife/ " 
 
522 THE MISSION AEY. 
 
 The Bishop was married November 24th to Catherine 
 Butler by the Bishop of London, and they immediately left 
 London on their way to Plymouth, to embark there for their 
 new sphere of duties. 
 
 This short period of his history seems more to belong to 
 romance than real life. It is almost too sacred to speak of, 
 and yet we should not clearly understand the character of 
 Dr Bowen if we did not know how entirely and devotedly he 
 loved his wife, how rejoicingly he thanked God for the trea- 
 sure thus bestowed at the last moment. It was also a proof 
 of the loving and tender mercy of our God, who provided 
 him for a short time with so congenial a companion, and 
 took away the sting of his departure. He could not grieve 
 when she went with him, and those who loved him forgot 
 to mourn when they witnessed his joy. 
 
 On the 26th, the Bishop and his bride embarked for their 
 new sphere. Those who watched them from the shore re- 
 marked that they never once looked back towards the land 
 that they were leaving ; their faces were set onwards, and 
 a broad sun-track of the declining day fell across their boat- 
 path to the steamer, concealing them from the eyes that 
 were strained to see the last of them. It was as an emblem 
 of their end " received into 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 " He sailed from our pleasant homes away 
 
 With a spirit bright and brave ; 
 His Master's summons to obey 
 He went to the white man's grave. 
 
 " From our island gardens he pluck'd a flower 
 
 To blossom by his side, 
 Greenly it bloom'd for one short hour 
 And quietly died. 
 
 " Chief pastor, nobly hast thou wrought 
 
 To WORK was meat to thee ; 
 As they told me of all thy toil I thought 
 How sweet thy rest must be ! " 
 
THE Bishop and Mrs Bowen arrived at Freetown on Decem- 
 ber 13th, 1857, after a quick and pleasant voyage. It was 
 Sunday, and the Sunday-school children, who were drawn up 
 on the shore to welcome them, sang a hymn as they walked 
 up their lines. The governor kindly received them, until a 
 small house was ready into which they moved, while the 
 residence assigned for the Bishop by the C.M.S., a portion 
 of the college at Fourah Bay, was preparing for them. They 
 did not lose much time in settling themselves and arranging 
 their own affairs, so that in less than a month after their 
 arrival we find the Bishop entering with much activity and 
 earnestness into the duties of his new office, already well 
 acquainted with its practical details, and the wants of the 
 colony. 
 
 TO THE REV. H. VENN. 
 
 " FOURAH BAY, January 18, 1858. 
 
 " . . . . We took possession of our new residence on the 
 IGth. The rooms are cheerful and cool. The corner of the 
 piazza I occupy as a study is 79'5 before the sun has come 
 round on it ; but anything below 80 is comfortable. Thank 
 God, we have both of us as yet excellent health. I have 
 
526 THE BISHOP. 
 
 several times walked to St George's on Sunday nearly two 
 miles, which is considered, for a bishop, I presume, a remark- 
 able exploit, and somewhat dangerous, though I think it 
 rather good than otherwise, were it not for the inconvenience 
 of being obliged to change every under garment. But I 
 must write of work. 
 
 " The missionary meeting at Pademba Road Church was 
 very encouraging ; it was interesting to see so many of the 
 black congregation brought together on such an occasion. 
 I have preached twice at Kissy Road Church, and that is 
 all I have seen as yet of the missionary congregation. The 
 coloured congregation at St George's is increasing very much, 
 and I have been much interested in the Sunday-school. 
 
 " There is a great need of men acquainted with the African 
 languages ; I think each missionary ought to know one. The 
 Ako is much spoken here by a large number of the people, 
 and much better understood than English ; they were much 
 gratified when Townshend and Crowther preached in Ako. 
 There are a large number of Fulah, for whom we are doing 
 nothing ; and though these are Mohammedans, they know 
 very little of Arabic, and few can translate the Koran. Two 
 only of those I have met could converse freely, though, of 
 course, there may be many others. 
 
 "Another fact is the very small acquaintance of the adults 
 with the English language, and the sad gibberish spoken by 
 many who have passed through our schools. There are many 
 causes for this : the carelessness of the negro mind ; the in- 
 fluence of the native mind and language on the English, 
 giving rise to the corrupt dialect as spoken by the original 
 
THE BISHOP. 527 
 
 negro settlers from Nova Scotia, which has been perpetuated 
 here ; but one slight cause, I think, is the defective English 
 of many of our teachers, the bad pronunciation of the German 
 being exaggerated by the negro. I earnestly pray, for the 
 sake not only of the Queen's English, but for the facility of 
 being understood in preaching the gospel to the masses, who 
 have not much education, that you will send us English 
 schoolmasters. It is true, the rising generation- is improv- 
 ing, but still they are very imperfectly acquainted with the 
 English language. 
 
 " We have been discussing the female institution. A great 
 difficulty is about to arise from the absence of missionaries. 
 .... We much want an additional chaplain to supply the 
 places of missionaries going home on leave, or on account of 
 health. I think they ought to be relieved, but there should 
 be some one to take their place for the time. 
 
 " Kissy I have not yet visited, but hope to do so soon ; 
 and as soon as I can, I must go to Fallangia to inquire about 
 matters there. As to the general state of this singular 
 colony, I can as yet say but little. There is abundant cause 
 to 'thank God and take courage/ when we consider what 
 the people were, and what they are. The efforts of Chris- 
 tian philanthropists, so far as Sierra Leone is concerned, 
 have signally succeeded. They have done all they could 
 wish. They have not made Englishmen of a whole hetero- 
 geneous population of African savages, but they have trans- 
 formed them into orderly and peaceable subjects, who are 
 advancing rapidly in civilisation, and are not so deficient in 
 industry as many would persuade us. A young black man 
 
528 THE BISHOP. 
 
 in the dress of a British officer, (a purveyor to the colonial 
 and military hospitals,) said to me the other day, ' Look at 
 me ; I am the son of a liberated African ! ' 
 
 " I cannot conclude without again referring to the mis- 
 sionary and pastoral work. The harvest is great, and the 
 labourers few and far between. We want more white men 
 
 and more black men I am sorry to say that there is 
 
 a war expedition preparing here against some refractory 
 chiefs who are advancing the Moslem cause, and overrunning 
 the Bullom. 
 
 "My wife unites with me in kindest remembrances. 
 Yours very faithfully, J. SIERRA LEONE." 
 
 The Bishop and his wife soon settled themselves in their 
 African home, and threw all their energies into the duties 
 of their new position. Mrs Bowen's letters to her friends 
 were full of life, giving an animated description of the place 
 and of their domestic difficulties with the black servants ; 
 but nothing seemed at this time to have disturbed either of 
 them, they were so perfectly happy in each other, and so 
 fully employed. The Bishop was much struck with what 
 Christianity had really done for the place, and remarks in 
 one letter : 
 
 " The people and population of blacks looked strange at 
 first, but you soon get familiar with them. Most of them 
 are very civilised. Some are well-off, and have nice frame 
 houses. The greater part live in neat little dwellings built 
 of wicker, plastered with mud, and covered with thatched 
 roofs, often almost concealed with bananas and other foliage. 
 
THE BISHOP. 529 
 
 It is pleasing to see the numbers of clean and respectably 
 dressed persons going on a Sunday morning to the different 
 places of worship ; and not less instructive to notice wild- 
 looking men with a piece of dirty cloth thrown round them, 
 staring with surprise at the closed shops, and their fellow 
 black men in trousers and jackets, and women in neat gowns, 
 going to worship God through Christ. These are traders 
 from the interior, perhaps Gold-Coast strangers, who must, 
 I often think, wonder what has happened to the town and 
 people, so changed does it seem on the Sunday. The Sab- 
 bath is clearly a sign. The congregations in the mission 
 churches here are large and attentive, but the population is 
 far beyond our means. We have only three churches ; two 
 of these of the C.M.S., and one the Colonial, in which, until 
 lately, there were not many blacks except the soldiers. I 
 cannot go into details now, but there is much here to gratify 
 the friends of missions. The testimony of the governor is 
 very remarkable ; he says his work is made wonderfully 
 easier by the presence of the missionaries. I send a news- 
 paper with a report of the C.M.S. meeting here ; a very 
 large church was filled with black people, who seemed very 
 attentive. As yet, I have not been able to get at the people, 
 though I have met several of the native clergy ; they seem 
 good and ink-lliLrent, but scarcely men of power. The negro 
 appears to want force of character, but he is capable of im- 
 provement and great advancement. I trust we may have a 
 revival. "We want men to go to the regions beyond men to 
 look after the people. As I look from my window I see the 
 expanse of the Bullom shore, where all is heathen dark- 
 ness/' 
 
 2L 
 
530 THE BISHOP. 
 
 In February, the Bishop visited the mission at the Rio 
 Pongas, which had been established there by Mr Leacock, 
 who had gone out to Africa as a missionary of the West 
 Indian Mission to Western Africa ; and a most interesting 
 account of what had been accomplished by him in the short 
 period he was permitted to labour amongst the natives of the 
 Rio Pongas, and of the chief, Wilkinson, is given in the 
 memoir of his life, written by Dr Caswell of Figheldean. 
 After Mr Leacock's death, the mission was left for some time 
 under the care of a West Indian named Duport ; and the 
 accounts from there made it necessary for Bishop Bowen to 
 visit the place himself as soon as he could after his arrival 
 in his diocese. In so doing he fulfilled one of the last 
 promises of his predecessor. He wrote an account of this 
 journey to the Rev. H. Caswell, D.D., which has already been 
 printed in the "Mission-Fields," June 1858 : 
 
 " March 1Q, 1858. 
 
 "On February 17th, I embarked on board the steamer 
 Alecto, Commander Hunt, and proceeded the same afternoon 
 towards the Pongas. For this accommodation I was indebted 
 to the kindness of the Governor, Colonel Hill, and the civility 
 of the Hon. F. Gray, admiral of the coast. Nothing could 
 exceed the kind attention of Captain Hunt and his officers. 
 I was accompanied by Mr Black, of the Church Missionary 
 Society, and the Rev. Mr Campbell, (native,) hospital chap- 
 lain here, and assistant chaplain to myself. We arrived off 
 the river the next day, at 10 A.M., and anchored at about 
 thirteen or fourteen miles from the entrance of the sand-bar, 
 and at 11.30. started with most of our baggage (bedding, 
 
THE BISHOP. 531 
 
 provision, and a few presents) in rny own whale-boat, pulled 
 by eight Kroomen under the command of Lieutenant Lacy. 
 Having a strong ebb-tide against us, we did not enter the 
 river until 5 P.M. After sunset we passed Tintiina ; then, 
 proceeding by moonlight, passed Babria, and at 0, winding 
 through the creek, between rocks and mangroves, found our- 
 selves alongside a flat piece of rock called the wharf of 
 Fallangia. I sent Mr Campbell to the chief's house, and to 
 Cyprian, and in a short time the latter came down with a 
 crowd of people. Cyprian told us that the chief and Mr 
 Faber had just left, after waiting for us a few days, and then 
 conducted us to the mission-house, which seemed a long way 
 in the .darkness, for the moon was set, or nearly so. How- 
 ever, arrived within the clean mud walls, and having got rid 
 of the crowd, we soon made ourselves comfortable. In the 
 morning the daylight came in over the top of the walls under 
 the low projecting roof. All around there was a delicious 
 cooing of numerous species of doves. The church and mis- 
 sion-house have just been completed ; indeed the latter, not 
 quite. They are both the better kind of country buildings, 
 with mud walls, and lofty grass roofs, prolonged downwards 
 into deep verandas. These roofs do not rest on the walls, 
 but on pillars, and thus an open space is left all round, which 
 afl<>rils an admirable ventilation, so that the church is the 
 most pleasant one I have done duty in since my arrival in 
 Africa. The walls and floor are of the earthen plaster 
 in this region. The fittings an- Dimple, and the carpentry 
 rough ; but the arrangement is regular, though they ini^ht 
 have put the pulpit to one side of the communion table, and 
 made it lower. The two buildings (i.e., the church and 
 
532 THE BISHOP. 
 
 mission-house) are nearly of a size, and about twelve or 
 fourteen yards apart. They are, perhaps, a little more than 
 a quarter of a mile from the village, on a dry, healthy, and 
 elevated spot ; commanding a somewhat extensive view of 
 an undulating and wooded country, with cultivation here 
 and there. They are near a garden of Chief Wilkinson's. 
 It is to my mind a very pleasant situation ; and I conceive, 
 with proper comforts, a mission family would be as healthy 
 here as at Sierra Leone ; but a European family would re- 
 quire a better and more solid house. This could be built at 
 no very great expense, I believe ; for the rock in the vicinity 
 seems likely to prove very good building stone, and brick-clay 
 may be found in the neighbourhood. Chief Wilkinson will 
 give (so far as he can) about fifty acres of ground adjoining 
 the premises, if the Society will undertake to cultivate it ; 
 and this I strongly recommend them to do, if suitable agents 
 can be procured. 
 
 " On Friday I paid a visit to the school, which seems to be 
 conducted very well by Cyprian ; with whom I feel well 
 satisfied. The sons of most of the neighbouring chiefs were 
 there. The children sang very nicely ; and in the service on 
 Sunday they chanted the Venite, Jubilate, and Gloria Patri, 
 in a very respectable manner. On the morning after our 
 arrival, several met in the church, and after prayer, the 
 children sang ' Hosanna,' &c. Lieutenant Lacy said it was 
 one of the most affecting things he had seen these little 
 children singing the praises of God in the wilds of Africa. 
 
 " On Saturday, the chief, with Mr Faber arrived, having 
 put off an important meeting of the chiefs of the river dis- 
 trict, to meet me. On Saturday evening Mr Duport arrived. 
 
THE BISHOP. 533 
 
 "The Sunday service was well attended, and the people 
 seemed very attentive. The stillness of the Sabbath Mas 
 very marked ; the responses were correctly made, chiefly by 
 the children. There were about two hundred persons pre- 
 sent, and many Moslems looking through the windows. On 
 Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, we were engaged in 
 business. On Thursday we prepared to depart with the 
 chief, to attend the meeting of the chiefs at Sangha. We 
 were on the river all night, and arrived at day-break at Mr 
 Faber's house, who was there to receive us. I steered my 
 own boat all night, and the broad stream, with its shady 
 banks, did not seem to me charged with any pestilential 
 miasma. 
 
 " On Sunday, we had Divine service at Mr Faber's, in the 
 piazza. About fifty were present, including several Sierra 
 Leone traders, and some from Fallangia. Mr Faber hos- 
 pitably entertained our whole party. On Monday morning 
 iru-'l in my own boat; had a delightful row down the 
 magnificent stream of the Bangalong. Reached the sand-bar 
 at "2 I'M., and after refreshing the men a little, pulled out to 
 sea, getting a diMant view of the vessel, 'hull down,' but the 
 flood tide in >t mii^ly, and our tired boatmen could 
 
 not stem it. As we had no light to see the compa>- 
 the moon and stars were obscured, we remained for MJHIC 
 time in i-'imnuice which way to steer; but in the end pro- 
 videntially found ourselves drifted by the tide near to the 
 vessel, and got on board about 1.30 A.M., with feelings of no 
 little thankful: 
 
 " On Wednesday, March 3d, we reached home. And now 
 as to the mission-field of the Pongas I look upon it as 
 
53-i THE BISHOP. 
 
 a most hopeful one. I believe Chief Wilkinson is in earnest. 
 His father was an Englishman. He received some of his 
 education at the former church-mission establishment on the 
 Fatallah, and afterwards in England, where he spent some 
 time at the house of the Rev. Thomas Scott the commen- 
 tator, and knew Josiah Pratt. On returning to Africa, he 
 went to the West Indies and America, and all his religious 
 instruction seemed lost, but now much has returned. There 
 is much warmth and enthusiasm about him ; he delights to 
 call himself an African, and seems to have greatly valued Mr 
 Leacock, of whom all, indeed, seemed to speak with rever- 
 ence and affection. Wilkinson often makes use of the sen- 
 tence ' God will be a God/ chiefly with reference to instances 
 of what to him appears retributive justice. He especially re- 
 ferred to Jelloram Harrison, an employe of the C.M.S., who, 
 bribed by a slave-dealer, set fire to the premises of the 
 Church Missionary Society, and afterwards died wretchedly, 
 confessing his sin. Lewis Wilkinson, his second son, has 
 received a tolerable education, partly at the Wesleyan school 
 at this place. He seems pious and simple-minded. 
 
 "A suitable European (i.e., English or West Indian) 
 clergyman is wanted. A pious West Indian as catechist 
 would be very useful. I believe the climate is by no means 
 as deadly as is supposed, to men of a tolerably robust con- 
 stitution. Mr Higgs fell a victim to the season he chose for 
 his journey. What should we think of a person who went 
 from Falmouth to Portsmouth in an open boat in winter? 
 And the house of the chief, in which he was, I do not consider 
 well ventilated. I could not occupy the room in which Higgs 
 died, for a fortnight, without feeling its effects. In fact, I am 
 
THE BISHOP. 535 
 
 delighted with the Pongas as a missionary post, and were it 
 not for other works I have to do, should be very happy to 
 occupy it myself, were the blessing of God to remain on it. 
 Where are the labourers? 
 
 " The Soosoo books will be most acceptable. I have ex- 
 tended this letter to a very great length, and seem yet not to 
 have done. I shall try and send you a sketch of the church 
 and mission-house. I did not proceed to consecrate the 
 chmrh, because I think that a more permanent building 
 may in a few years be erected, and then the present one 
 could be used as a school, for which, indeed, it is also in- 
 tended by the chief. I trust it will please the Most High 
 to raise up labourers to carry on the work so promising 
 at present. I think one or two new stations could soon be 
 opened. 
 
 "Cullon (Mnth'ms Katty) promised to receive a mission- 
 ary. Jt'lloram Fernandez ought to be visited ; in fact, there 
 is quite enough for two active Englishmen. The Soosoo 
 nation would supply much work for a mission. 
 
 " I hope you will endeavour to get another clergyman ; a 
 
 man with the love of Christ and souls in his heart, with 
 
 caniotiu^s and warmth of character, yet with good common 
 
 knowing human nature, of active bodily habits, hardy 
 
 and str<>' 
 
 " There are some remarkable facts connected with this place, 
 where the C.M.S. station was burnt down many years ago. 
 It is a most promi-iu-- opening, and a mm-li moiv habitable 
 and healthy place than Leacock's memoir would lead one to 
 suppose. The house ' on piles' is an important point. The old 
 closed houses of the natives would soon kill a white man." 
 
536 THE BISHOP. 
 
 The Bishop had hoped to form a new station in this 
 district, and had taken several sugar-loaves and other things 
 as presents to the neighbouring chiefs. They appeared will- 
 ing to receive a missionary. The door was indeed opened, 
 but there was no man to go in. 
 
 He returned to Freetown March 3d, having been absent 
 about ten days, and was this time gladly welcomed home by 
 his wife, for though both were determined to make and 
 think the best of the climate, it is very touching to see how, 
 almost unconsciously to themselves, they watched each other's 
 health. Thus we find him in his private diary thanking God 
 that he found her well, while she describes herself as watching 
 with beating heart the return of his vessel, as she thought of 
 Mrs Vidal, under the same circumstances, seeing the one in 
 which her husband was lying, arrive with its colours half- 
 mast high. 
 
 Mr Campbell, the native clergyman who accompanied him 
 on this occasion, has given us the following account of this 
 expedition : 
 
 " Truly, as you observe, he did much work in a very little 
 time, wherever he went. This reminds me of the way in 
 which he exerted himself at the Eio Pongas country, where 
 I had the pleasure of accompanying him. He was much 
 pleased with the good work going on in that place, and made 
 several arrangements for the benefit of the mission. He 
 succeeded in getting the chief to give a large piece of land 
 adjoining the mission-house, for the improvement of the 
 mission property. 
 
 "During his short stay at Pallangia, he had morning 
 
THE BISHOP. 537 
 
 prayers regularly in the church, which were well attended. 
 He read the psalms for the day, one lesson, and a short 
 exposition, making general remarks through an interpreter. 
 You would have been much delighted to have seen the men, 
 women, and children, on their way to their work on the 
 farms, or other avocations, hastening first to the church, 
 leaving their baskets, wooden bowls, bill-hooks, hoes, and 
 other working implements by the door of the church. These 
 poor heathen would have shamed many in the colony of 
 Freetown. 
 
 " On Sunday he preached from Acts xvii. 30, ' And the 
 times of this ignorance God winked at ; but now comniandetli 
 all men everywhere to repent/ Many of the chiefs and 
 people came from a distance to attend the service ; the little 
 church was quite crowded. The Mohammedans did not 
 go in ; but several of them stood outside by the win- 
 dows, looking on, and listening attentively to all that the 
 chief repeated from the lips of the Bishop. On the whole, 
 it was a very interesting and imposing service ; I believe 
 many went away very seriously impressed with the solemn 
 truths declared. 
 
 " The Bishop told me to prepare for the evening service. 
 When the time came, and I was about to proceed according 
 to his order, he came into the vestry, and offered his services, 
 saying he would read the prayers, which he did, afterwards 
 baptizing two children, one being the child of Mr W. Fuber, 
 chief of Sangha. This gentleman requested the Bishop to 
 christen him John Bowen Faber. I assure you it was not 
 very easy to preach through an interpreter. The Bishop 
 pronounced the blessing, and the service was closed. He 
 
538 THE BISHOP. 
 
 had prepared refreshments for those who came from a dis- 
 tance, and had nowhere to lodge. 
 
 " The most striking scene of all was the morning he was 
 about to take leave of the place and people. After morning 
 prayers, he delivered a most touching and appropriate address, 
 and then immediately burst into tears. The Eev. Mr Black 
 concluded with singing and prayer, while he stood weeping 
 in the desk, and some of the poor children began to cry. 
 His emotion arose from his deep concern for the people 
 and children he was about to leave ; so promising did they 
 appear, yet with no minister among them, only a school- 
 master. He said they were as sheep without a shepherd ; he 
 knew not what would become of them, but committed them 
 to the care of the Almighty Shepherd, pledging his efforts in 
 their behalf. The people of that place will long remember 
 Bishop Bowen's short visit to their country." 
 
 It is gratifying to know that before many months had 
 passed, a faithful and earnest clergyman had offered himself 
 for this station, under the auspices of the same society as that 
 which had sent forth Mr Leacock. Adverting to this ap- 
 pointment, the Bishop remarks, in a letter to Dr Caswell : 
 
 "To be efficient, the missionaries at the Pongas should 
 learn the Soosoo language, the Fuleh and Arabic would also 
 be useful. It is a field which would open an extensive 
 sphere of usefulness to an energetic, talentecl, and pious man ; 
 and I trust some of our younger clergy may be led to give 
 themselves to this work. I do not refer to these things to 
 discourage the coming out of Mr Neville, but to impress the 
 
THE BISHOP. 539 
 
 necessity of seeking for a younger man, if not to accompany, 
 soon to join him. In entering on the question of outfit, &c., 
 I would premise that he must be careful not to be led away 
 by any of these theories about enduring privation, which 
 seem to have had some influence on Leacock ; he did not 
 take care of himself, and fell accordingly. Since the C.M.S. 
 have given their missionaries better houses, and, I believe, 
 better incomes, this station has become not more unhealthy 
 than India or China would be, if men exposed themselves 
 rashly. As I believe the funds of your society are adequate, 
 I shall not scruple to mention as many things as I think 
 may be needful for Mr Neville's comfort. The climate is 
 exhausting ; the perpetual perspiration; and the want of cool 
 nights make such demands upon the system, that tonics 
 and stimulants, in moderation, are requisite. You will, per- 
 haps, think my list extravagant ; but some of the things 
 mentioned are more for the purposes of the mission, and all 
 would tend to its benefit. The ordinary necessaries are to 
 be procured here, but you have to pay dearly for them. If 
 you can afford it, or can get it from the Manchester Cotton 
 Supply Association, a Macartney gin would be likely to be 
 of use, as something of this kind is needed to turn the at- 
 tention of the people from the slave- trade, of which there 
 are still some remains in the Pongas. In Walker's 'History 
 of the Church Missions in Western Africa/ you will find a 
 long account of early labours in the Pongas, and of Ptichard 
 Wilkinson, and of others who may yet be reclaimed. 
 
 " Duport has been employed on a Soosoo primer, which 
 has been partly printed, and some copies sent to the Pongas 
 for criticism there. It will require a little time to perfect it ; 
 
540 THE BISHOP. 
 
 and though as yet they charge high for printing here, it will 
 be a good thing, I believe, that the first experiment of re- 
 ducing a language to writing should be made here, as there 
 are so many facilities for correction. 
 
 " The old chief has been unwell, and probably is breaking 
 up ; I trust he will arrive at a clear knowledge of the truth. 
 I am, &c., J. SIEKKA LEONE." 
 
 After Mr Neville had proceeded to his station, the Bishop 
 again writes 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 " Knowing that you will be anxious about your excellent 
 missionary, I will send you the very meagre intelligence that 
 has reached me, though I have been in daily expectation of 
 hearing from him. As you know, he left with Captain Close ; 
 and on the captain's return, I learnt that he had taken him 
 to Mrs Lightkin and King Katty, and that Mr Neville left 
 him at the mouth of the river to proceed up the Fallangia 
 branch on the Saturday at midnight. This made me feel 
 very anxious about him ; and now, on Captain Close's arrival 
 from a second cruise, in which he picked up the boat which 
 had conveyed Mr Neville to Fallangia, I learn that he arrived 
 about 6 A.M., and very sensibly went to bed ; so he did not 
 write by the boat, which returned immediately. 
 
 " Since then, the Spitfire sent up a boat to inquire after 
 him, and found him very well, and much pleased with the 
 place, intending to stay for some time. Mr Neville does 
 not appear to have written by the second boat. I am sorry 
 he stays so long, as it would be better to come away before 
 
THE BISHOP. 541 
 
 he gets ill ; but I can well understand his being interested in 
 the people and work. I hope to hear soon by some of the 
 traders ; but if not, shall consider about sending down the 
 boat, which is now repaired and seaworthy, at the expense 
 of 8, 7s. Gd. He had the means of rommunicating by 
 signal, or even canoe, with a man-of-war, if anything were 
 wrong, so that I trust all is well with him as yet. I begged 
 him not to stay long. I am sure he will have interesting 
 communications for you when you hear. Yours faithfully, 
 
 " J. SIERRA LEONE." 
 
 The Bishop, in his letter to Dr Caswell of the next month, 
 mentions the return of Mr Neville to Freetown in the follow- 
 ing terms : 
 
 \Ve are most thankful to see Mr Neville back here a ^a in, 
 looking better than when he left. He has shewn an admirable 
 spirit in encountering hardships and fatigue; considering all, 
 he has done wonders. I trust his present impunity will not 
 lead him to be regardless of the risks of the rains. His suc- 
 cess quite confirms all I felt about the healthiness and 
 openness of the Pongas for missionary operations. I trust, 
 indeed, and hope with more confidence, that he may be spared 
 to bring lost souls to the glorious Redeemer/' 
 
 He again alludes to the importance of the iron house for 
 the mission : 
 
 " I am very glad to hear of the iron house being now 
 ready and on its way. I regret that, being on the point of 
 starting to visit the missions at Lagos, I shall not be able to 
 
542 THE BISHOP. 
 
 give any assistance in putting it up ; but I have given Mr 
 Neville the best information I can as to how to get it taken 
 to its destination, and hope it may be done for much less 
 than you anticipate. I imagine it would be a good plan to 
 freight a small vessel, which could take it at once and right 
 up to Fallangia. Duport having been brought up a mechanic 
 ought to be able to get it put together with perhaps one or 
 two workmen from Sierra Leone, and such people as are 
 found in Fallangia as labourers. I should suggest that the 
 underpart of the iron house had better not be used as a 
 schoolroom; the noise of the children would very much 
 inconvenience the missionary, especially if he were ill ; be- 
 sides, I think it might be injurious to health/' 
 
 Again, amongst the last letters written by the Bishop, we 
 find him still interested in this mission, and saying to the 
 Eev. H. Caswell, D.D : 
 
 " I shall be glad to receive the young man you mention as 
 an additional labourer at the Pongas. A man thoroughly 
 understanding school management may' be very useful in 
 preparing others for the important work of education. In 
 receiving persons of this class I do not think it well to hold 
 out any distinct promise of ordination. They should come 
 out willing to labour for the good of souls in any capacity. 
 With this view, such persons are more likely to continue 
 humble, and less liable to be influenced by the ambition of 
 obtaining holy orders ; and yet, being found worthy, they 
 are likely to become most useful missionaries. Nor do I 
 think the small amount of knowledge of Latin and Greek 
 
THE BISHOP. 543 
 
 such men can acquire of much use, except in giving them 
 some knowledge of general grammar, which may be done 
 through the medium of the English compared with the native 
 language ; except, indeed, when a man has considerable talent, 
 and then, what he can learn well of Latin and Greek may be 
 useful to him. Earnest, humble piety, a facility for teaching, 
 sound knowledge of the Word of God, and capability of ap- 
 plying it to the conscience, are among the chief qualifications 
 / should look for in ordaining men of this class, and two or 
 three years of preparation would develop these qualities where 
 they exist." 
 
 March 28th, 1858, the Bishop held his first ordination, 
 a solemn and important season to himself. Most anxious 
 did he feel to lay hands suddenly on no man, and to send 
 forth only those who would be true shepherds of the flock. 
 
 Dr Livingston was at Freetown on this occasion, having 
 
 called there on his way to the south, and was much inter- 
 
 in witnessing the ceremony. He wrote an account of 
 
 it, which was afterwards published in the Record newspaper. 
 
 In April, the Rev. F. Pocock (the chaplain) was obliged 
 to return to England on account of his health. This con- 
 siderably increased the Bishop's work, he having to attend 
 to the duties of colonial and garrison chaplain, in addition 
 to his other labours. 
 
 At this time he writes as follows : 
 
 "May 17, 1858. 
 
 " I cannot be too thankful for the good health 
 
 hitherto vouchsafed to my dear wife and myself, and trust it 
 
544 THE BISHOP. 
 
 will be continued ; but by Pocock's going, my work is much 
 increased, and I am beginning to find out more. Besides the 
 Bethel services, there are the garrison candidates for bap- 
 tism. I shall have, I expect, nearly fifty soldiers to instruct, 
 and my native assistants cannot take this for me ; these 
 things curtail my journeys. I have not been able to visit 
 the Timneh Mission yet. 
 
 "Then my legislative duties will take some little time, 
 for the Divorce Act is to be re-enacted here, where the state 
 of society as regards marriage is frightful. Again and again 
 have I been applied to by parties who suppose that I have 
 a dispensing power There is not here the same safe- 
 guard that there is in England in the moral feeling of the 
 masses. We have secured a fine site for the female institu- 
 tion/' .... 
 
 The unhealthy season was now commencing at Sierra 
 Leone, but never having been accustomed to consider his 
 health, or take care of himself, it was not possible to con- 
 vince him of the necessity for doing so. He took much 
 pleasure in painting and preparing a boat, and making a 
 flag for it with his own hands ; his wife was to sail in it 
 from Fourah Bay to Freetown, and they were to have some 
 quiet trips in it together. It must be admitted, that in these 
 occupations there was unnecessary exposure, but not feeling 
 the present inconvenience, he could not realise the danger. 
 He writes in May : 
 
 " I am thankful to say that my dear wife and myself are 
 still quite well, notwithstanding all that they say about the 
 
THE BISHOP. 545 
 
 climate. This is one of the worst months tornado time ; 
 thermometer to-day 88 in the coolest room we have ; but 
 still it is bearable. I have been rolling down palm-trees, 
 and chopping this morning under the sun. In fact, people 
 here do not take the care and precaution they do in India 
 against the heat. As yet, I feel that the unhealthiness of 
 the place has been exaggerated, and partly occasioned by our 
 being too English in our habits. Morning service here is at 
 eleven, people have therefore to come out in the hottest time. 
 Ladies, and sometimes gentlemen, go about in little sedan 
 chairs on wheels, and gents are carried about in hammocks, 
 a mode I have sometimes submitted to when travelling in the 
 mountains, but only as an occasional rest from walking. 
 
 "The assistant chaplain having gone home, my work is 
 more parochial, and I must attend to the congregation with 
 two black assistants. There are still some heathens in the 
 town, and we are beginning to get at them again, for lately 
 they have been rather neglected, as the numerous professing 
 Christians demand all the strength of the missionaries; in 
 fact we have only one missionary in Freetown, and three 
 native clergymen, one of whom has a school. 
 
 " I have now a boat which I generally use for going to 
 Freetown ; but in the rainy season I may not be able to 
 employ it." 
 
 While thus deeply engaged in work at Freetown, we find 
 from his journal that the other stations were not neglected, 
 but visited occasionally, as opportunity allowed. It was on 
 one of these expeditions that he caught his first attack of 
 fever. 
 
 2M 
 
546 THE BISHOP. 
 
 "FOURAH BAY, July 7, 1858. 
 
 " MY DEAE FEIEND, You will no doubt have heard of 
 my having had my first attack of African fever a little be- 
 fore the departure of the last mail, and just in time to prevent 
 my writing any letters. Through the mercy of God I am 
 now almost fit for work again, having nearly recovered my 
 strength, which returns more slowly than after similar attacks 
 in our climates. With regard to the fever itself, I believe I 
 brought it on by other causes than the climate, which I 
 mention that that may not be blamed. At Magbeli, which 
 I think a very healthy place, I had a slight attack of 
 diarrhoaa from having been exposed to the sun in a canoe 
 one day, and walking again in the heat. Very early next 
 morning I started to save the tide, which we met some miles 
 below Magbeli ; but about half-way down the boat grounded 
 on a very difficult bar, which obstructs the navigation. As 
 the tide was falling fast, and the water very shallow, there 
 was nothing for it but to jump out, and help the crew to 
 launch her right over into deep water, stirring up the mud, 
 with a ten o'clock tropical sun on my back. I was a little 
 worse, but halting for the next tide at a trader's, I got better, 
 and reached home at 9 P.M., after a good day's work. Dur- 
 ing the previous month and after my return (the same week) 
 I used to walk at 2' P.M., once or twice a- week, up to the 
 barracks, to instruct a class of soldiers, candidates for bap- 
 tism, so altogether it is not to be wondered at that I had a 
 fever, as the rains are setting in. I am now keeping quiet to 
 get quite strong before doing much, so, if it please God, I 
 may escape a relapse. I will say no more, except to add the 
 
THE BISHOP. 54<7 
 
 hope that it may prove a seasoning to enable me to do more 
 work 
 
 " I am glad you intend to strengthen the mission. We 
 want a superior man or two men ; we want a university 
 man, an English gentleman, and a thorough schoolmaster. 
 I am well satisfied with the missionaries in every respect, 
 and all are diligent in their work. We want help very 
 
 much at Freetown. W has not yet fairly started as 
 
 industrial instructor at Kissy normal school. I want to 
 purchase some oxen, and have them trained to draw, which 
 will be a great improvement. I have undertaken to revive 
 the cultivation at the grammar-school farm, but it requires 
 more capital than I can conveniently spare ; for, to do any 
 good, the place should be fenced in. My illness, too, inter- 
 fered with the plan. I believe it will ultimately succeed. 
 
 " I am very sorry to see the tone of some of the English 
 papers about the slave-trade. Not to ascertain the nation- 
 ality of vessels carrying the American flag would be tanta- 
 mount to withdrawing the squadron ; every slaver would be 
 American. The practice now, on boarding a suspected Ame- 
 rican, is not to search them ; but, if there be pretty strong 
 evidence of their being slavers, to threaten to tow them to 
 the nearest American cruiser ; in which case, they generally 
 haul down their colours, and throw their papers overboard, 
 renouncing every nationality, as they would rather be taken 
 by the British than by their own people. The services of 
 the squadron are, in fact, telling upon the continent; the 
 trade is getting very bad, as the frantic effects of the slave- 
 dealers and importers seem to indicate. In the Pongas, and, 
 I believe, in other places, it is admitted that the slave-trade 
 
548 THE BISHOP. 
 
 has ruined the country ; and now that the trade is done, the 
 chiefs are beginning to feel the need of other channels for 
 gain, and this feeling, in some degree, is the cause of the 
 present opening for missionary work in the Rio Pongas. 
 Let the trade be vigorously put down from the sea for only 
 a few years more, and it will soon cease. 
 
 " I was much pleased with Magbeli ; the situation is good, 
 no mangroves, the ground undulating, the soil fertile, capa- 
 bilities great ; the people ignorant, but not idle, as shewn by 
 their engaging in the heavy labours of the timber trade. 
 Their intercourse with the colony has not tended to prepare 
 them for the gospel. The mission premises are very well 
 situated, on an elevation sloping to the river, a fine stream ; 
 then there is a good piece of ground, about twenty or thirty 
 acres, but it is not fenced nor reclaimed. Overley is anxious 
 to do all he can, but is discouraged ; he has so little help, 
 and the boatmen are difficult to deal with. 
 
 " The church has been badly built ; but I think, by and 
 by, it may be replaced by one of brick, if Overley is spared. 
 The Parsaba came to church in a curious patchwork robe of 
 gaudy cotton prints, of which I think you know something. 
 As it is seldom worn, it was probably put on out of compli- 
 ment to me ; he wore, besides, a multitude of charms. Many 
 Sierra Leone people, and some Timnehs, were at church ; 
 my sermon was interpreted. I afterwards administered the 
 sacrament to eleven communicants. At the village of Koe- 
 und, about six miles up the river, a very good native house 
 has been given for a school ; it is admirably adapted for an 
 out-station to Magbeli, and I hope we shall find a schoolmas- 
 ter for it. 
 
THE BISHOP. 549 
 
 " According to Wilshire, the Tiinneh translations are very 
 imperfect. The expression used for ' John baptized Jesus,' 
 was understood to mean, 'John drowned Jesus.' 
 
 " I am afraid the Haussa translation, made chiefly at home, 
 will be found defective too, but you will soon get corrections. 
 I had an excellent translation from a Haussa corporal, of the 
 words ' winked at/ (Acts xvii.) I was trying to read, know- 
 ing only that it should be a certain passage, and getting the 
 man to translate sentence by sentence in his broken English ; 
 he said, ' He see, but no speak.' The garrison is a field in 
 itself. My class of fifty soldiers, in British uniform, contains 
 six or more nations, all willing to be baptized, as a part of 
 military duty, and afterwards several shewing considerable 
 rt in the imperfect instruction they could get. The 
 whole force of the various missions in Freetown seems barely 
 sufficient for the pastoral work of the congregations, ami the 
 heathen and Moslems are left to themselves. Unless we get 
 sonic more Europeans, we shall go back. Won't you give me 
 a missionary chaplain ? We are not able to have a cathedral 
 mission as in Calcutta. We have a service in the burial- 
 ground chapel, taken by Campbell in an almost heathen 
 quarter. I leave it entirely to him. There have been si-vend 
 very uncalled-for attacks in some of the English papers, re- 
 flecting on Governor Hill, and the Government generally. 
 He was a little too strong in his mode of proceeding with 
 the newspaper, and the measure was badly conceived ; but 
 that is all remedied now, though the suppression of the New 
 Era was more on account, I am told, of its slanderous and 
 libellous propensities, than of its ultra-politics. There is 
 very little discontent here that I know of, except amongst a 
 
550 THE BISHOP. 
 
 few who want to get Government situations ; and there is 
 every disposition to promote the natives, even before they 
 become competent. One case brought against the Chief-jus- 
 tice is absurd ; a man is said to have been imprisoned seven 
 years without any cause but to gratify a favourite, and then 
 dismissed without trial. He was an insolvent debtor, and 
 refused to give up his book, and was liberated because the 
 opposing creditors would no longer maintain him in jail ; he 
 is now supposed to be living on funds fraudulently secured 
 by his continuance in prison. The Anti-Slavery Reporter 
 has been quite led away by false representations. I refer to 
 this, because the Governor is such an excellent friend to all 
 the missionary societies, and is honestly desirous of promot- 
 ing good amongst the people. You may be able to set the 
 truth before some parties. The chief abuse here is the jail, 
 which has the fault of all the old jails, in no separation of 
 criminals; but without a new building, little or nothing 
 could be done in this matter. This grievance the complain- 
 ing party never refer to. 
 
 " I have written you a long letter, but might have added 
 more ; it will help you to judge of what is going on, and of 
 the state of things in general. 
 
 "Kemember me kindly to the Committee, and to your 
 family. Yours very sincerely, 
 
 " J. SIERRA LEONE." 
 
 This was his last letter to England during his wife's life- 
 time. We can see, in the entries in his journal, the quiet 
 enjoyment of his recovery under her fond care ; and in every 
 line written by either of each other, it was evident that the 
 
THE BISHOP. 551 
 
 intense happiness it had pleased God to give them for that 
 short season served as a glimpse of the future. Happy on 
 earth, they worked for heaven, and God prepared them both 
 to go up higher. 
 
 THE WIDOWER TO HIS SISTERS. 
 
 "FREETOWN, August 5, 1858. 
 
 " MY DEAR SISTERS, As there are many of you to whom 
 I should write, a general letter may save me time. Dear 
 girls, you will feel for me. The Lord has sent affliction on 
 the house. We came into Freetown for the rainy season 
 the week before last, and settled in a house the Pococks had 
 occupied. We should have arrived before but for my illness, 
 which prevented our making arrangements, and since I was 
 well, I was delayed by the preparation for the mail, by which 
 I could not send you a scrap. But I must hasten to what 
 I have chiefly to tell. Dearest C. was unwell yesterday 
 week, more so on Thursday. We supposed that she had 
 caught a severe cold from the damp weather. The doctor 
 saw her several times. I was down again with fever on 
 Wednesday. So we went on, Friday and Saturday ; the 
 type of my fever was remittent. I cannot, however, remem- 
 ber much about it ; but on Saturday, dear C. give birth to 
 a still-born son. I was too unwell to be allowed to see her, 
 and too weak to bear the excitement. She was said to be 
 doing well, and was very still ; this I overheard, as the door of 
 my room opened into hers. It was a sad disappointment ; she 
 
 bore it like an angel. On the Sunday, Dr B wished to 
 
 call in Dr F of the garrison. I went to see her ; she was 
 
 sweetly resigned. ' It is all right ; ' she said, ' whom the Lord 
 
552 THE BISHOP. 
 
 loveth, He chasteneth/ I could not help shedding tears, 
 knowing her danger, the intense delight with which she had 
 made preparations for the infant, and her desire for a son. 
 * We were too happy in earthly things/ she said ; ' but they 
 will be very sorry at home/ She thought more of their grief 
 
 then her own ; and spoke to E of my disappointment, 
 
 never alluding to hers. 
 
 " I could only stay a little while, as she had to be kept so 
 very quiet. I was anxious, too, not to retard my own 
 recovery, so that I might be able to wait on her, and do my 
 work. From the adjoining little room where I lay, I could 
 hear every sound. The doctor sat up in the house the whole 
 
 night, though his own was near. E was most attentive. 
 
 Mrs B - by day, and Miss by night, helped to nurse 
 
 her. 
 
 " Monday, I was better, and sat a little while with her. 
 She was only allowed to speak very little ; her face was 
 heavenly ; she spoke of her boy, and its resting-place : ' We 
 
 will go and see it some day/ she said. Dr B sat up again 
 
 with her ; he told me she was going on well, but required 
 watching, as danger might come. Now and then she dozed 
 and slept. Tuesday, I was better, and able to be with her 
 more, but her mind was wandering, though she had known 
 most people in the morning ; the rambling and straining of 
 the eye increased ; once she tried to get up. I was quite 
 unable to hold her, and she fell exhausted on the bed. The 
 doctors came ; they had been several times in the day ; I was 
 
 told to keep quiet, and sent to bed, and Dr F sat up. 
 
 I went and looked at her in the night, and when in bed I 
 
THE BISHOP. 553 
 
 could hear every movement. She lay very still and dozed, 
 making a moaning sound as she breathed. About 5.20. A.M. 
 I heard the sound change ; I went to her, and, passing between 
 the watchers, knelt by her side in a minute my Catherine 
 was gone ! Yes, dear girls, that sweet beaming face I shall 
 see no more on earth. As I have written this narrative, it 
 seems like a tale, yet it is true, I was wonderfully well 
 
 yesterday the day she died. Dr B arranged everything 
 
 for her and for me. She was laid in her coffin last night, 
 and the house was all quiet. Many a time I kissed that 
 clay- cold forehead, and that sweet placid brow and eyebrow, 
 so like my mother's. Last night I slept well till three 
 o'clock, when I got up, replenished the candle by the dear 
 corpse, and sprinkled disenfecting fluid around ; how sweet 
 that smile, I never saw such an expression of placid joy, 
 almost amounting to triumph. To-day, this day that I 
 write, they have taken her away, and laid her and the still- 
 born together, and I have placed some fresh roses from my 
 garden on her bosom. The Lord is supporting me. It 
 gives me relief to write of her ; it helps me to forget my 
 lonely state. I have a severe chastisement to bear ; may it 
 teach me the intended lesson ! I have some delightful notes 
 in her journal, and will send you a few extracts. You will 
 all sympathise with me, though you know little of the loss I 
 have sustained. 
 
 "August 6th, (evening.) Thank God, I am better to-day. 
 To awake in the night and morning, and know she was not 
 here, was dreadful ; but I went to Fourah Bay to-day, to 
 look for some of her things, and to see that all were right, 
 
554 THE BISHOP. 
 
 as we came away in a hurry, and I was to return in a day 
 or two. 
 
 " To enter the house was overpowering ; I knew it would 
 be, so I determined to make the effort. No one met me on 
 the stairs : where was that sweet cheering smile ? I could 
 only exclaim, She is gone ! she is gone ! and, kneeling by the 
 bed where she used to lie, found relief in a flood of tears. I 
 have said again and again, ' My God, what hast Thou done ? 
 what hast Thou done ? It is hard to submit ; yet I trust 
 now I can say, " Thy will be done/' and feel happier in that.' 
 I prayed for submission while she lay in suspense. I could 
 not believe that God, who gave her, would so soon take 
 away His brightest of earthly gifts. Yet He was and is 
 wise. As dear Catherine said, 'HE has chastened me.' 
 Perhaps, in my joy at the prize I had found, I did not 
 sympathise enough with dear H in her affliction. Per- 
 haps, delighting in her, I was getting to love the world 
 too well ; and if blessed with a boy, with my dear wife 
 twining round my heart, I might have grown too fond of 
 them, though I could not have been in one sense ; yet I 
 looked upon her perhaps too much as in the world, that is, 
 as being my happiness here, and God has shewn me she 
 was not of earth, but of heaven. 
 
 " I know you will all feel very much for me ; but the Lord 
 will not leave me nor forsake me. 
 
 " I intend, God willing, to stay at Fourah Bay next week, 
 and then come here for a month or so, to be nearer the work. 
 
 "As soon as I can get ar assistant colonial chaplain, I 
 shall go up the coast and spend some months. After my re- 
 turn here, God willing, I shall try to get away and come to 
 
THE BISHOP. 555 
 
 ED gland ;* but God knows and will arrange all for me. Dear 
 Catherine and I used to talk of our return home. Ah, I 
 shall be alone ! my work will be my best comforter ! It is 
 right to mourn * Jesus wept ; ' and we mourn with hope. My 
 dear wife suffered for some months more than I knew. She 
 was often tired, and my illness must have affected her much. 
 I was frequently obliged to beg her to lie down, and once for 
 two days she kept her bed. She had gone into the next room 
 as my feverish tossings disturbed her, and she would get up 
 if she thought I wanted the least thing. I told her how I 
 would nurse her when her turn came. Alas, even for the 
 few days she lay ill I could not do it ! 
 
 " .... A saint is gone from amongst us ! It is wonder- 
 ful how her mind was turned to death long since, as I see 
 by some sweet records of thought I have found in her papers. 
 
 "August 7tk. This morning I went to her grave in the 
 wild, neglected cemetery, where I have long tried to get 
 something done, little thinking what a treasure of mine it 
 would contain. It did me good, and I have attended to some 
 business since. 
 
 "I find she had many serious thoughts of death this time 
 twelvemonth in Wales, and some delightful anticipations of 
 heaven. ' It will be sweet to be with Jesus!' Most cheerful, 
 even playful, she has always been, yet there was ever a cur- 
 rent of serious reflection. She has been given me for a lesson 
 and a trial. 
 
 "August Wth. I went to church on Sunday; I felt it 
 would do me good ; I should only have been moping at home. 
 I found the services very comforting ; the Psalms for the 8th 
 
 * A purpose never realised ! 
 
556 THE BISHOP. 
 
 very appropriate. At the holy communion, to thank God for 
 the departed was hard, but I hope I did it. Her form and 
 attitude as she stood in the service is imprinted as a pleasing 
 picture on my memory. Caiger preached an admirable and 
 judicious sermon. I trust her death may be the means of 
 doing much good. I was better yesterday, (Monday,) and 
 came out here (Fourah Bay) to-day, to avoid callers, and to 
 write for the mail. The house is desolate its light seems 
 gone ! but the Lord will and does wonderfully support me. 
 The full sense of her happiness, to which she often looked, her 
 bright clear views of Christ and His truth, are all very pre- 
 cious to me. I know a Father's hand has done it in wisdom 
 and love, so it must be well. I needed the stroke ; I loved 
 her perhaps too much as of earth, while truly she was of 
 heaven ; so sweet a mind, so thoughtful and serious, yet so 
 cheerful and playful, so active, too, and energetic. She would 
 meet me sometimes when I came home with, ' I have been so 
 busy to-day,' and then she would tell me of all the little things 
 she had been doing. There was nothing she would not put 
 her hand to. Only the very week she was taken ill she 
 covered an old silk umbrella with brown holland, and was 
 delighted with her performance. 
 
 " I promised to give you some of her memoranda ; lest I 
 should not have time for that, I write only a little extract 
 now from July 25th. After speaking of her pleasure and 
 hope of usefulness from having come into Freetown, she says, 
 ' After all, I may have a very short time to stay. I deserve 
 death. But, for Christ's sake, Lord, give me eternal life. 
 Comfort dear John, if I am taken ! Enable him to bring 
 many to gospel light.' Then she expresses her affection 
 
THE BISHOP. 557 
 
 towards me, and adds, ' Keep us from all trifling. May we 
 never go into society but to do good ! ' 
 
 "About this time twelvemonth she had many thoughts of 
 death. ' Can I be near it ? ' she says, and expresses her sense 
 of joy at the thought of being with Christ. Her journals are 
 really most edifying sweet, and simple. I seem to converse 
 witli her. What to some might seem a sombre tint in her 
 mind was only, I believe, her seriousness. Death had no 
 terrors for her. She said long since, and felt it too, ' I do 
 not wish to live unless God has a work for me to do.' Con- 
 tinually she prays for usefulness. Her trust in Christ and 
 His righteousness was clear and decided ; and with a most 
 amiable disposition and purity of mind, she had a deep sense 
 of her own sinfulness. 
 
 "August 17th. Since writing the above the mail has come 
 in ; many letters for dear Catherine. I have been staying at 
 Fourah Bay for quiet. On Sunday, I read prayers, but did 
 not preach. I am getting calm, and able to attend to busi- 
 ness, but there is a great blank ; and even yet I feel that the 
 unreal, and I often turn as if to speak to or exchange 
 a thought with her, with whom communion of spirit was so 
 delightful 
 
 " I shall often visit the grave where rests that dear clay. 
 I feel the comfort that she is happy ; and God will take care 
 of me, and give me to see His wisdom and His love in due 
 time. Send this letter round to all in turn. I hope you 
 will be able to make it out ; I have not time to read it over ; 
 I have perhaps given way to feeling. 
 
 "May God preserve and keep you all! Your affectionate 
 brother, JOHN SIEKRA LEONE. 
 
558 THE BISHOP. 
 
 It might appear to some that this outpouring of his heart 
 to those who had shared the griefs and trials of his young 
 days was too sacred and intimate to be laid bare to the 
 public eyes ; but we feel that we should not give a true por- 
 trait of the man if it were withheld, as the depth of loving 
 tenderness which is here revealed, with the entire submission 
 of his will to God, even when his grief was so bitter, would 
 have remained unknown. 
 
 In another letter he writes : 
 
 " Very, very dear she was to me, the long- wanted, the 
 crowning ingredient in my cup of earthly happiness, she 
 was all I desired. Very happy we have been, yet she is 
 happier now ; so I must not murmur, though I cannot but 
 mourn How I have longed to bring my dear one to Eng- 
 land and shew her my home, and let old Nanny * see her. 
 
 " I have plenty of occupation, which is a good thing ; and 
 I am thankful to be able to attend to it" 
 
 There were several other letters written to Mrs Bowen's 
 family as well as his own, not one individual on either side 
 was forgotten ; and to each to whom he could not write, a 
 kind thoughtful message was sent. It seemed his best relief 
 to think of and to soothe the sorrow of others. It is yet 
 more touching to turn from these letters to his diary, where 
 each minor detail of her illness is minutely recorded. On 
 the day of her death he can only write : " My darling is 
 gone to heaven ; God give me grace for the sad, sad trial ! " 
 
 * Old Nanny had been his nurse, and lived in a house he had provided 
 for her near his own. 
 
THE BISHOP. 559 
 
 On the 5th, the day she was buried : 
 
 " The light of my eyes is taken ! They have laid her in 
 the grave to-day. God, Thou hast wounded me very sore. 
 Help me to profit by the rod to learn the lesson. May it 
 redound to good ! " 
 
 August the 6th, he takes up another journal book, in 
 which the last entry had been made when he was at Bagdad, 
 January 19, 1851 : 
 
 "Freetown, Sierra Leone, August 6th, 1851. What an 
 interval has been passed since the entries on either side of 
 this page ! How manifold the events which have been borne 
 on the tide of time ! 
 
 " My return to Palestine, sojourn in Nazareth, acquaint- 
 ance with the Marshes,* safe return home, short dwelling at 
 Milton, happy circle of sisters, death of dear Ellen ripe for 
 glory, living of Orton and all its dear associations, sad 
 leaving for the East again, dwelling at Nablous, visit to the 
 Crimea, home again to dear Orton, journeys to different parts 
 of England, appointment to Sierra Leone, providential mar- 
 riage, as it seemed, at leaving, what a multitude of events 
 and thoughts ! There are some notes of these elsewhere ; but 
 have I grown in grace ? There has been much work, inces- 
 sant work ; have there been no weeds at home ? God now 
 presses this upon me. He gave me a jewel, a sweet, 
 heavenly-minded woman ; she solaced my trials, cheered 
 
 * The American family who had been ill on the shore of Lake Tibe- 
 rias. 
 
560 THE BISHOP. 
 
 my hours of weariness, helped my work, and longed for 
 strength to assist me more. She promised to be the mother 
 of my child ; the prospect increased our love we did love 
 very much and God has taken her. She died August 4, 
 two days ago it seems already an age. I am left desolate, 
 having had an enjoyment I had long looked for a sweet 
 mind always ready to sympathise with me ; I had it God 
 has taken her. Oh she was heavenly-minded ! Did not I 
 love her too much as an earthly blessing, did we not too 
 much enjoy the present in each other ? Yet we did not for- 
 get the future ; God's we were ; we had given ourselves to 
 Him ; we felt it our privilege to serve Him. We felt very 
 grateful for all He had done for us. Yet, may I not for the 
 moment have treasured up His earthly gifts more than the 
 spiritual blessings in Christ ? Was there not too secular a 
 spirit in my work ? Did I not feel too much pleasure in 
 the thought of returning home with my dear wife, and shew- 
 ing her my worldly things ? I was too confident of earthly 
 happiness ; yet I knew that I might die any day, and thought 
 much of it in my illness only a few weeks ago. MY GOD, 
 
 THOU HAST DONE THIS IN LOVE AND WISDOM. THY ANGEL 
 
 is WITH THEE. When I spoke to her of the babe that never 
 saw light, ' It was almost what we wished/ she said, (i.e., a 
 boy ;) ' but it is all right ; whom the Lord loveth He chast- 
 eneth.' Little did we think, or rather did I expect, the 
 chastening in store. Lord, teach me, help me to bear, help 
 ine to be more earnest in faith, to be less of the world, and 
 yet to do more for, and in, the world. I find, in a note I 
 made July 5th, that I felt then the need of praying for more 
 usefulness. Is this the answer to my prayer ? 
 
THE BISHOP. 561 
 
 " I was in fever when her labour came on ; how I prayed 
 for her and for the child, that they might be spared, and 
 that the Lord would make the infant His ; and when the 
 babe was dead, I feared for her, I felt her disappointment 
 more than my own, and now she is gone too ! 
 
 "August llth. This day week dear Catherine's spirit 
 went to heaven. She is there now ; she knows God in 
 Christ. Could she ever see my grief and desolation, she 
 would smile, for she would understand how it was all for 
 good 
 
 "August 13th. Visited the grave of the dear one this 
 morning, and planted some of the lilies she was so fond of, 
 white, and pure, and drooping, like herself. I feel now 
 more than ever, the Lord will not forsake me. 
 
 "\tli, (Saturday?) Set to work to prepare for my ser- 
 mon, and arrange some household matters ; put the lock of 
 the bureau into order, and came into Freetown. It was sad 
 to come to where the dear one was last. Occupation does me 
 good, but often a reaction follows. 
 
 "August IGth. So many times to tell the sad, sad 
 tale! 
 
 "August ^$ill. The mail is gone. The finished letters 
 seemed to bring relief, but soon there was a blank. The 
 
 C s called. Talking excites and sustains me, and now I 
 
 have time to feel my bereavement. God has done it. I took 
 a walk at dusk, and went to the grave of my sweet one. I 
 could not weep ; part of what I loved was there, and part in 
 heaven. I thought of the decaying flesh, and prayed to be 
 weaned from the world and devoted to God. 
 
 "August 2Qth. I have sometimes felt pleasure at the 
 
 2N 
 
562 THE BISHOP. 
 
 thought of my Catherine in glory. I am happy when I 
 picture her delight. 
 
 "August 22d, (Sunday.} The Lord helped me. My text 
 was Isaiah xxv. 8, ' He will swallow up death in victory ; and 
 the Lord God will wipe away tears from off all faces ; and 
 the rebuke of his people shall He take away from off all 
 the earth : for the Lord hath spoken it/ It was very hard to 
 begin. Once or twice I thought I must give it up, but got 
 on better towards the end. I trust a blessing may rest upon 
 the word. 
 
 " Went to school and catechised the children. I did not 
 venture to ask for my dear one's class." 
 
 There was much sympathy felt and expressed on all sides 
 for the Bishop's anguish. His wife had endeared herself to 
 all, and they mourned for their own loss as well as his. At 
 the same time that he made these sad memoranda of his 
 grief, he was resuming his work, and giving himself up to 
 every detail with as much or even more diligence than his 
 state of health, weakened by the fever and suffering, would 
 permit. " It is new and strange to me," he writes, " to feel 
 as an invalid and unequal to my work without positive ill- 
 ness ; but this too is good." 
 
 Not only was business attended to, but other matters 
 shewing care and thoughtfulness for others. Thus we find 
 by this same mail a letter to 
 
 THE REV. H. CAS WELL, D.D. 
 
 " August 19th, 1858. 
 
 " .... Mr Duport informed me that you had written to 
 
THE BISHOP. 563 
 
 him about lodgings for Mr Neville. I shall be very happy 
 to receive him when he arrives. As I have just now a small 
 house in Freetown, I can accommodate him there or at Fourah 
 Bay ; and he will have plenty of time to make his arrange- 
 ments. I hope you will consider the iron house a practicable 
 plan ; it would greatly conduce to health and comfort. Did I 
 mention a square piece of thick waterproof stuff, about six 
 or seven feet square ? Chief Wilkinson sent an idol for you 
 some time ago ; hitherto I have not been able to avail myself 
 of any opportunity of forwarding it. I now send it by one 
 Baily, who is going home to be educated for a schoolmaster 
 of the C.M.S." 
 
 All the little clothes and the bassinette which had been 
 provided for the rnuch-looked-for baby, were sent home to 
 one of his sisters, many of the small articles being packed up 
 and put together by his own hands. His strong utilitarian 
 principle would make him wish to render them useful to 
 others, now they were not wanted there ; and the thought too 
 might have been pleasing that they should be pressed into 
 the service of an Orton-born baby. 
 
 Turning now to the more business letter to the C.M.S., we 
 see that everything was as well attended to as if no crushing 
 sorrow had overtaken him. The affairs of the mission, the 
 plans for the new female institution, are all gone into with 
 the most faithful exactness ; even the agricultural and in- 
 dustrial work is not forgotten : 
 
 " Meanwhile things go on as usual We have two yoke 
 of oxen at work, and the boys learning to drive, instead of 
 
564 THE BISHOP. 
 
 carrying everything upon their heads. I am helping on the 
 building now with my team and man, (an American, but not 
 a fugitive slave.) This takes them away from our farm at 
 King Tom's just now, but I hope soon to get another yoke 
 and teams, and then to put in the plough. I have an idea I 
 shall not enlarge on now, but if we work successfully the 
 agricultural scheme with the boys of the normal school, we 
 shall start cotton and sugar, and, by teaching Africans to 
 bestir themselves in Africa, help to stop the slave-trade, the 
 cause of which is that here the value of the soil and the man 
 on it is unknown. The native labourer could produce with 
 skill as much in this country as in the West Indies or the 
 Southern States. 
 
 " You will know that I have much to write, and many to 
 write to, this mail. The writing these copies (the business 
 part of the letter) is a great relief to me, as it occupies my 
 mind fully for the time, and prevents my dwelling on the 
 sad and bitter trial my heavenly Father in wisdom and in 
 love hath sent me." 
 
 On the next day, August 17th, he writes : 
 
 " The talk of giving up the squadron fills us with appre- 
 hension. If it be kept up only a few years more, and the 
 missions spread, the slave-trade will end. 
 
 "A good deal has been said about its efficiency, and, of 
 course, much depends upon the energy and tact of the 
 commanding officer. The Alecto has taken eight prizes 
 since she has been out; but if you watch Commander 
 Hunt, you will soon see why he is more lucky than others. 
 
THE BISHOP. 565 
 
 He is constantly out, seldom stays in port, never says where 
 he goes. Before he came on the station, the whole or nearly 
 all the cruisers came in to meet the mail, and stayed several 
 days ; but when he sent in a prize, they were off much more 
 quickly. It had .been said there was no slave-trade going 
 on north of this. Generally in the rainy seasons a small 
 cargo, of about three hundred, gets away from the Pongas ; 
 this year they will hardly manage it. Faber, one of the 
 principal dealers, is wishing to abandon it. If Manchester 
 trade were to get in there it would do much. Wilkinson, 
 the chief, said the slave-trade had ruined his country, (Rio 
 Pongas ;) and now that is done, ask any African chief if the 
 squadron is not effective, and he will tell you it is, and com- 
 plain of his losses. The Fuleh bring down slaves in small 
 quantities, which the native factors purchase, and wait their 
 chance, which is now very small, unless this new idea of not 
 ascertaining the true character of vessels hoisting the Ameri- 
 can flag is carried out. Livingston's testimony too is decisive 
 as to the efficacy of the squadron in checking the trade on 
 the south coast. For my part I cannot believe that 30,000 
 slaves can get into Cuba. I do not think they can get away 
 from the coast. That number would require sixty vessels, or 
 thereabout, and each one, before she can complete her cargo, 
 must be a longer or shorter time on the coast, and could 
 scarcely escape the notice of our crusiers. During the war 
 this may have been possible ; but now the squadron is in- 
 creased, it is very unlikely. We want faster vessels ; there 
 are too many of the old steamers here. 
 
 " The article in the Times of July 17th, was very fallacious. 
 Talking about the negro emigrating to where his labour is 
 
566 THE BISHOP. 
 
 wanted, and coming back with acquired skill and money is 
 absurd ; his labour is wanted here as much as on the other 
 side. What is needed is skill to direct him. A little 
 agricultural skill and enterprise thrown into the country 
 round would do much. I believe scarcely one-third of the 
 land is cultivated, and that most imperfectly. The colony 
 itself is so mountainous as not to be favourable ; but much 
 more might be done ; and the fertility of the mountain 
 sides greatly promoted. At present the security and oppor- 
 tunity make every one eager to trade ; but this passion will 
 cure itself by degrees ; and the little pedlars, with a few 
 shillings of capital, will be driven off the field to make their 
 daily pittance by labour; of course, as long as a man can 
 earn sixpence a day by bargaining and chaffing, he will not 
 work in the sun to gain only the same sixpence, hence the 
 tales of idleness ; all savages are idle, and so are my servants, 
 especially the boatmen ; but the exertions of the Timnehs in 
 the timber trade shew that they can work, and will do so 
 when an object is presented. 
 
 " If I can only carry out a scheme I am trying to mature 
 with the normal-school boys, it will shew the African chiefs 
 what their people are worth at home, I must recur to this 
 subject again. 
 
 "Kespecting the ordination of the natives, I have not yet 
 clearly seen my way, and it takes time to understand people 
 and things. In some respects they are as useful as catechists 
 as they would be as deacons. 
 
 "I have wished to make a call from a congregation a 
 ground for ordination to the native pastorate; and with 
 respect to the present deacons, propose that if any congre- 
 
THE BISHOP. 567 
 
 gation come forward and state that they wish any one of 
 them to be their minister, and will contribute something 
 towards his maintenance, I will ordain him priest. For 
 example, you give 50 to a full catechist ; if the congrega- 
 tion give him 5, or 10, I ordain him deacon ; perhaps it 
 would be well to say, if they gave 15, or 20, I would 
 ordain him priest, and this extra sum might be taken partly 
 in relief to your funds. It will be long before most of the 
 congregations come up to this mark, and I would accept some 
 small instalments of it. It would give the native pastors an 
 object and interest in the self-supporting system, which must, 
 however, for a long time be only partial. It might work 
 with some small endowment. The ordination of natives 
 would not help me now. I want an assistant chaplain for 
 the Europeans, to set me free from congregational duties. 
 Meanwhile, I have taken on a Wesleyan minister to help for 
 the troops. 
 
 " It is most important to have a right-minded man here 
 as chaplain. Can you help me ? We want another mission- 
 ary to take 'up some of the native languages, and a mission 
 to the Moslems. 
 
 " We want a European for Kissy ; we want new, superior 
 men a university man would be of great use here. Send 
 out cheerful men. May God give them to you ! 
 
 " I have not appointed, but I have thought of taking Chief 
 Wilkinson's son on the fund for three years ; but he will need 
 the grammar school first. All the eligible men are sent to 
 Fourah Bay as they come up. A chief's son who had been 
 at the grammar school at his own expense, and was about to 
 leave, if promising, would be the best kind of subject. 
 
568 THE BISHOP. 
 
 "The late Bishop was authorised to send home some 
 medical students ; but I have not the authority, and would 
 not do so unless it were directly given to me. Could you in- 
 quire about it ? There are two or three here who seem to be 
 eligible. Kespecting any candidate for immediate or speedy 
 ordination you may send out, I am very desirous that they 
 should bring with them the usual testimonial required in 
 England from candidates for deacon's orders. Yours affec- 
 tionately, J. SIEERA LEONE." 
 
 A few days after writing the above, the Bishop was again 
 struck down with fever, and urged by his medical attendant 
 to leave the colony, if for only a short change. He was 
 recommended to return to England, or go to Fernando Po 
 and back. But to neither of these proposals would he con- 
 sent. A three-weeks' cruise in one of the war-steamers 
 was the only holiday he would allow himself, for the pur- 
 pose of recruiting the fever-weakened frame ; for the suffer- 
 ing mind he only asked for work, saying before starting, "God 
 has mercifully sustained me in the hour of grief, though the 
 idle moments of recovery were very sad." The next letter 
 to the C.M.S. is dated H.M.S. Alecto, off Isles de Los : 
 
 " October 11, 1858. 
 
 " MY DEAK FKIEND, For the first time in my life I have 
 taken an excursion for my health, and trust I shall return 
 much better, though I have had one slight attack of fever 
 since I left. 
 
 " I have only been able to go on shore at two places ; but 
 here I have learned, or rather been forcibly reminded of, the 
 
THE BISHOP. 569 
 
 vast work the Church of Christ has to do on this great 
 continent. Except the small remnant at Rio Pongas, there 
 is no missionary of any kind from the Gambia to the Sierra 
 Leone. At the mouth of the river Jeba and Rio Grande are 
 the Bijugas or Bissajos. At one of these, the Kenabar, we 
 anchored for a week. I went on shore one day. We had a 
 man on board who spoke Soosoo, and we found a Soosoo man 
 there who spoke the language of the Bulola, and so were 
 able to communicate a little with them. Being laid down 
 with fever again the next day, I could not do what I wished, 
 or as I had intended, by means of the Soosoo man, viz. 
 find out a little of their language, so as to know to what 
 class or family it belongs. 
 
 " The people are reputed very savage ; and are more bar- 
 barous than any I have ever seen. The women wear only a 
 grass kilt, about one foot deep, round the loins, and the men 
 a girdle less than theirs. Only one or two had dirty bits of 
 calico over their bodies ; I presume for dignity more than 
 decency. The men were all armed either with long heavy 
 muskets or short but very formidable spears. They opened 
 a brisk trade of fowls for tobacco with the people of the ship. 
 The old chief said he would be glad to have a school for 
 teaching the children, but the people did not seem to give 
 much heed. 
 
 " For the rest of the week I could not go on shore, and 
 afterwards we left for the anchorage off Rio Pongas, but I 
 was too unwell to venture up the river, and being about 
 fifteen miles from the entrance, had no communication with 
 the shore. We then made sail for this place, which, owing 
 to light and head winds, we were four days in reaching. 
 
570 THE BISHOP. 
 
 "The Isles de Los are a small volcanic group of three 
 habitable islands, and three smaller ones, the largest is about 
 five miles long, by about three-quarters of a mile wide, about 
 four hundred feet high, very rocky, and composed of granite 
 and trap, with the peculiar porous ferruginous stone of the 
 whole coast hereabout. The oil-palm grows luxuriantly. 
 
 " On the largest island there may be about 250 or 300 in- 
 habitants. Some years ago some discharged African soldiers 
 of one of the West Indian regiments were settled here by 
 the British Government. Most of them are dead, but their 
 children still speak English, and profess themselves to be 
 Christians. 
 
 " At the northern village they have a small building, now 
 much dilapidated, which they erected for a meeting-house ; 
 and in which some Wesleyan or African Methodist used to 
 preach to them. The last of these poor men died some time 
 ago, and they have had no service or instruction of any kind 
 since ; none of them could read. About twenty-four attended 
 a service I had on the Sunday afternoon, and seemed attentive. 
 We reckoned up about forty-five children who might attend 
 school in the village. There is a school about the same size 
 near the other end of the little island; I mean to send a 
 schoolmaster, and they have promised to help. The place is 
 important on very many accounts, and a missionary could visit 
 the mainland. The native language is the Soosoo. The need 
 of more men is most urgent. Great cause is there to pray the 
 Lord of the harvest to send forth labourers into the harvest. 
 We need the outpouring of the Spirit on the native churches. 
 The commercial energy of the day seems to take too great a 
 hold on our young men ; there is too much coldness among 
 
THE BISHOP. 571 
 
 those we train. The work is great, and we are few and 
 weak. ' Come over and help us/ is our daily cry. 
 
 "Freetown, October 15th. Since writing the foregoing, I 
 have received your letter and several others full of words of 
 comfort. Many thanks, dear friend, for your tender sym- 
 pathy. Somehow or other I have been feeling much cast 
 down since my return ; the absence of that loved one who 
 was my chief joy in coming back before, and some trifling 
 difficulties of the moment seem to weigh me down ; but 
 especially my loss affects me every moment, and I cannot 
 yet see my way to work as I ought. 
 
 " I should like much to see a draft of the church constitu- 
 tion you spoke of proposing for this colony. I think when 
 we have something of that kind to recommend, we could with 
 more effect bring forward the proposition for endowments. 
 
 " Land might be valuable here for that purpose, if a better 
 principle of agriculture could be introduced. My plans on 
 this head advance very slowly. These fevers are sad hind- 
 rances to work, and teach us heavy lessons of patience and 
 humility. The weakness seems to take away all energy. I 
 hope, however, to be in better spirits soon. I am just now 
 in a season of depression which one sometimes feels, and 
 under which I can never write to the purpose, so pray ex- 
 cuse this rambling. 
 
 " Mr Neville is staying with me on his way to Rio Pongas. 
 After having been twelve years at Bethnal Green, then in a 
 Devonshire curacy, and four years at Brompton, he now seeks 
 to serve his Master in the wilds of Africa ; he is very earnest, 
 and most anxious to be useful. He is, I suspect, a little 
 shocked at the Bishop's want of dignity in dress, and some 
 
572 THE BISHOP. 
 
 of his occupations, though he is beginning to find that putting 
 his hand to work now and then is useful ; but he is espe- 
 cially surprised at the episcopal friendship with Dissenters. 
 I have positively allowed an old Wesleyan minister to act as 
 my assistant in instructing the soldiers and visiting the 
 hospital, giving him a portion of the allowance for so doing, 
 having the nominal garrison chaplaincy in my own hands. 
 
 " As to the assistant-chaplaincy, I think I ought to apply 
 for the nomination, and then ask the Archbishop or the 
 Bishop of London to recommend. I do not know of any 
 one to invite to come out. May the Lord shew us a man for 
 the place ! Yours affectionately, 
 
 " J. SIEREA LEONE." 
 
 TO HIS SISTEES. 
 
 " October 16, 1858. 
 
 " . . . . The affection and sympathy of your letters have 
 been very sweet to me ; but since my return I have been 
 much cast down. Last time I was away at sea, I was on 
 board the same vessel, when my darling Catherine watched 
 for my return. With what joy we met again ! But that hap- 
 piness is over now. I feel more than ever she is not here ; 
 but I trust I shall not be allowed to give way, or let my mind 
 dwell too much on the past. I know how dear her memory 
 is, and it ever will be sweet ; and in time I shall be more 
 accustomed to be without her, and then I shall be able to see 
 more than I do now of the wisdom and love that took her 
 away. Dear, kind Mrs D quoted a very instructive re- 
 mark from old Jeremy Taylor, to the effect, that instead of 
 grieving for those who were our happiness, we should the 
 
THE BISHOP. 573 
 
 rather be thankful that we were permitted to know them for 
 even so short a time ; and so I do thank God for the little 
 space He gave me with that dear one 
 
 " .... I hope each of you will make it known as widely 
 as you can how sadly we want clergymen. I am in great 
 need of an assistant chaplain ; a gentlemanly, earnest, and 
 judicious Christian ; he should be a strong man, about thirty. 
 The sphere is a very important one. 
 
 " I should like to send you a little missionary information, 
 but my time for writing is very short. Now that my health is 
 restored, and the season is come for moving about, I am very 
 anxious to visit some of the heathen nations round here. 
 The Timneh is the only nation where we have a mission, be- 
 sides those to the mixed multitude in the colony, and amongst 
 them (the Timneh) little progress has yet been made ; but I 
 trust when we get vernacular preaching more will be done, 
 with the Divine blessing. 
 
 " We have had a reinforcement by the last mail, and have 
 plenty of work in hand. Our European missionaries have 
 each four or five congregations under their charge, some as 
 many as ten miles apart, and some with three hundred com- 
 municants. Part of the duties of these stations are taken by 
 native clergymen or catechists. Two native clergymen w< -nt 
 to the Niger this year, and to-day I have received a very 
 interesting letter from one of them ; they had proceeded as 
 far as Onitscha, had gone about the villages preaching, and 
 the people seemed glad to hear 
 
 "On my late voyage I landed at Kenabar, where the 
 people are the most savage I have yet seen. I sat down with 
 the captain before the chief house, and a great crowd of 
 
574 THE BISHOP. 
 
 naked men and women gathered round me. I tried to speak 
 to them through the medium of an interpreter, and told them 
 the simple fact, that ' God so loved the world that He sent 
 His only Son ; ' but they did not seem to take it in. The 
 old chief said he would be glad to have a teacher. I hope to 
 visit them again. Since my return here I have found a 
 woman, a native of one of these islands, who speaks English. 
 She is a liberated African, and a communicant of Mr 
 
 M 's congregation. She might help in carrying the 
 
 gospel to her native land. What can I do ? I trust some way 
 will be opened ; this is a region in which no missionary 
 effort has yet been made. A man from the mainland came 
 to me one day to offer himself as interpreter ; he is rather 
 ignorant. Here is, however, a wide field and an opportunity 
 for a missionary. Where is the man and his maintenance? .... 
 " An interesting event occurred at Kissy a few weeks ago ; 
 one of the chief idolaters remaining there lately gave up his 
 greegrees and priest's dress, and came to church ; he is now 
 a candidate for baptism. This has made a great sensation in 
 the place. I am longing to see the means for an enlarged 
 effort, and trust God may shew the way. I believe we have 
 immense openings, if we only had people to take them 
 up." 
 
 In November the Bishop again writes to the C.M.S., in- 
 quiring what is to be done for medical students, mentioning 
 the young men who might be eligible to be sent to England 
 to study medicine, speaking of them with individual interest, 
 as well as desiring to promote the welfare and progress of 
 the colony in every department. He was still without a 
 
THE BISHOP. 575 
 
 chaplain, which much increased his work, as it added to the 
 responsibility of being Bishop and head over all, the sole 
 charge of the garrison and the jail, and the duties of parish 
 priest of St George's. It is very touching to read his con- 
 stant earnest appeal for good men to come and work with 
 him, when we know how unsparingly he was expending his 
 own health and strength in spreading his Master's kingdom. 
 After entering into both these subjects, and the plans for the 
 new female institution, he goes on to describe his views for 
 increasing the mission and making it more aggressive on 
 heathenism : 
 
 " I have thought much of sending M into the Timneh 
 
 country, and getting him to set up a school, and learn the 
 language at the same time. When he has trained natives he 
 may be able to go and preach in the villages, and also extend 
 a system of vernacular schools, for which I believe there will 
 soon be a desire. The mere idea of knowing a book has at 
 least one charm for the native mind. 
 
 " I believe that a system of vernacular schools would wake 
 up a little the dormant faculties of the mind, and then, 
 watched over by itinerating missionaries, will be the means 
 of evangelising the surrounding countries, the missionaries 
 of course being able to preach. In all the schools near the 
 colony, English and the native language should be taught ; as 
 we got to the interior, English would be less an object, though 
 not to be neglected. The most promising pupils from the 
 schools could be selected for Fourah Bay, and in this way 
 alone could this institution obtain its true character as a 
 great Protestant propaganda for Africa. Youths having 
 
576 THE BISHOP. 
 
 received the rudiments in their native land, and having 
 learned to read their native language, would retain them, and 
 not become like the Sierra-Leone bred youths, almost as 
 foreign to the native tribes as we are, except in colour. This 
 is an idea I am evolving, and am anxious at least to see a 
 way of trying. With a young man we are now preparing, 
 and one of our new arrivals, we can have two schools in the 
 Timneh country. 
 
 " I have sent Bickersteth, who was formerly in charge of 
 the Kissy normal school, to the Isles de Los as schoolmaster 
 and catechist. I believe the Colonial Government will help 
 in this. There was an important palaver of the Bullom 
 chiefs at the Government House on Monday. I was present, 
 and hope to improve my acquaintance with the chiefs as 
 soon as I can move about, and see how far they will help in 
 
 the plan I propose. I should like to take M up the 
 
 river before settling what language he should endeavour to 
 acquire. 
 
 "We are anxiously waiting for the church constitution 
 you spoke of. I have mentioned the question of endow- 
 ments, but as yet nothing has been done. I hope to hold a 
 visitation early in January, and will bring it forward pro- 
 minently in my charge. Land may be obtained, which here- 
 after may become valuable, if agriculture thrives. There 
 have been some interesting conversions from heathenism in 
 Kissy lately, of which I hope B - will send an account. 
 The late prayer-meeting at Eegent received, I trust, a bless- 
 ing. I made a proposal there for the establishment of a 
 fund for the benefit of the widows and children of the native 
 clergy and catechists, which seemed to be well thought of. 
 
THE BISHOP. 577 
 
 All the native clergy and others present spoke of their 
 pleasure at the idea, and their readiness to pay in. We want 
 some rules and principles to guide us. I propose that there 
 should be free subscriptions to form a fund, and that a scale 
 of annuity be arranged. I think it might be on the principle 
 of a benefit club, with honorary members, only securing an 
 annuity to the widow and children to a certain age, not an 
 allowance in sickness. Could you get me some information 
 on this point ? . . . . 
 
 " Through the goodness of God, I have had no return of 
 fever this month, and am feeling stronger. I am often very 
 much cast down from thinking of my loss, sinfully so, I 
 fear, sometimes ; and I lose so much time from having all 
 the house affairs to look after. Now and then these things 
 occupy my time, and after all, are badly done ; though on 
 the whole I think my poor people try to do their best. 
 Three of them were with Bishop Weeks. 
 
 "There are many things to be done about St George's. The 
 schools to be removed, and new ones to be made out of old 
 buildings. The church must be re-seated, and the congrega- 
 tion wants more looking after than I can manage. The jail 
 is in a shameful state. 
 
 " The French, it is said, have been buying again some of 
 the slaves brought to Liberia by the Niagara. The Niagara 
 and H.M.S. Alecto were watching a French transport, which 
 was shipping the negroes, and would not allow her to take 
 in any more, nor permit the Frenchman to move. 
 
 "The commanders were acting at the request of the 
 Liberian Government. This morning I see the Alecto is in. 
 The French seem inclined to give trouble. I trust you will 
 
 2o 
 
578 THE BISHOP. 
 
 be able to spare a little time to advise me on some of the 
 matters referred to. Yours affectionately, 
 
 " J. SIEKEA LEONE." 
 
 November 25, he writes : 
 
 " This week is one of very sad recollection now ; once it 
 would have been a joyous anniversary, we thought. I could 
 not, however, indulge my feelings, having been obliged to 
 give a party to the officers of the Alecto, who have all been 
 most attentive to me during the times I have been on board 
 their vessel, and this evening or to-morrow they sail ; they 
 lost one of their officers last cruise, which affected me much, 
 as I felt great interest in him. I had service on board on 
 Sunday as a farewell, and afterwards the petty officers came 
 to the quarter-deck to thank me in the name of the crew. 
 Before leaving, I distributed tracts to every man, which were 
 most thankfully received. There ought to be a chaplain 
 here to look after our sailors." 
 
 TO THE KEY. H. VENN. 
 
 " FREETOWN, December 10, 1858. 
 
 " MY DEAR FEIEND, The opportunity by the Britannia in- 
 duces me to write a few lines in anticipation of the mail. . . . 
 
 " There is at present in Freetown a Mr Lawrence, a 
 mulatto, grandson of a Eio Pongas slave-dealer, who has 
 formed a settlement at Bulama, near Bissao and the Bijugus ; 
 he is anxious to improve the place, and sees what missions 
 have done here. He says he will give a large piece of land 
 for a mission settlement, and I believe would support a 
 mission. He has been taught to read ; yet, living so long 
 
THE BISHOP. 579 
 
 among savages, and brought up a slave-dealer, he knows 
 nothing of the truth. I have sent for the Timneh mission- 
 boat, and some of them will go up the river to look at the 
 place. Wiltshire writes of small troubles : the bell is stolen, 
 the fences broken down, the schoolmaster's house botched 
 up by the contractor, but still unfinished 
 
 "I will write more by the mail on the 13th. Through 
 mercy I am pretty well, though I do not feel strong. This 
 day is the anniversary of my landing, and my reflections are 
 sad and bitter ; it is a day of rebuke and humiliation. I 
 have suffered, but, alas ! how little has been done ! I trust 
 the humiliation may be the prelude of good. 
 
 " As to myself, I feel that we can accomplish but very 
 little, and a slight exertion fatigues. The only thing I do 
 which may be hurtful is occasionally going out in the heat, 
 and visiting my garrison class at two o'clock on Fridays ; but 
 these things it is impossible to avoid. 
 
 " There are at this moment same encouraging features in 
 connexion with St George's, and I trust good may arise among 
 a few of the Europeans." 
 
 " FOURAH BAY, January 15, 1859. 
 
 " .... I will detail, first, some of the more pleasing and 
 hopeful incidents of the month. On Christmas afternoon, 
 having no family party to leave, I started for Hastings by 
 water, which I reached after dark, to administer the sacrament. 
 I was much pleased with the village, and the neat church 
 with a belfry. The old Government-house given up to the 
 C.M.S. is large and well situated. On Sunday, we had a crowd- 
 ed and attentive congregation, most respectably dressed, and 
 
580 THE BISHOP. 
 
 about one hundred and fifty communicants. On Monday, we 
 examined the school, with which I was on the whole well 
 pleased. The first class repeated very fairly a difficult sen- 
 tence of English ; many of them without a mistake, though they 
 did not understand the words. I found they had a tolerable 
 knowledge of Scripture history ; on the whole, I thought the 
 state of the congregation and the school very hopeful 
 
 " I was at Wellington on Sunday last to administer the 
 Lord's Supper, and there must have been two hundred and 
 fifty communicants present. These sights are very pleasing 
 amidst our many trials ; to see the old people with the 
 heathen marks upon their faces coming in a decent manner 
 to the table of the Lord is deeply impressive. Such a scene 
 and such facts would give the friends of Africa great cause 
 to thank God 
 
 " There seems to be nothing doing about the Native Pas- 
 torate Fund, nor do I think there will be until I am able to go 
 about and stir the people up. I am not quite sure that this 
 is the best time for such a movement. I have some apprehen- 
 sion that the absurd political agitation which a few are get- 
 ting up is tending to create a restless spirit amongst the poor 
 people, and perhaps a slight feeling of distrust. 
 
 " I intend holding a primary visitation early in February, 
 and may then be able to bring the matters of church and 
 education formally before the people, through the assembled 
 missionaries and catechists. I am now arranging for leaving 
 if possible by the next mail for the eastern district. A visit 
 to that part of the country will help me further to understand 
 this mission. I have hopes that we may find a new open- 
 ing to Bullom Bay. Sherbro was here the other day, and 
 
THE BISHOP. 581 
 
 expressed his wish that the old station at Clarkson should be 
 occupied. The grandson of King Arqua of Cameroon is 
 here now, and wants to get missionaries to his country. This 
 young man is a convert of the Baptist mission at Fernando 
 Po. So there are openings and trials. Brethren, pray for us. 
 Yours faithfully in Christ, 
 
 " J. SIEBRA LEONE." 
 
 Amidst all his varied and numerous occupations, with 
 wearied frame and aching heart, the Bishop did not forget 
 one important item connected with the improvement and 
 civilisation of Africa viz., the cultivation of cotton. The 
 great question had not then been raised, " Where shall we go 
 for cotton ? " but it was evident that the best means of putting 
 an end to the slave-trade was to induce the negro to cultivate 
 his own soil, and to open a direct trade with Africa for the 
 products of the land. The resources of this great continent 
 are yet undeveloped. Her cotton capabilities are evidently 
 great ; an extent of country stretching from Lagos to 
 Dahomey far into the interior, something like a thousand 
 miles by seven hundred, is one vast cotton-field. Here it 
 grows abundantly and spontaneously, and even when un- 
 cultivated is equal to, and the best substitute for, that sort 
 generally known as middling Orleans, which is the cotton 
 most used, and which has hitherto principally supplied the 
 mills of our manufacturers. 
 
 Mr Clegg of Manchester has been most indefatigable in 
 his endeavour to bring into the cotton market the produce of 
 free labour, and he states that the African cotton can always 
 command a better price than the Surat, while some specimens 
 
582 THE BISHOP. 
 
 have been sent over equal to the Sea Island variety, which is 
 the most valued. It is also a fact, that the free labour of 
 Africa can produce cotton more cheaply than is possible to 
 the slave-owner of America. 
 
 "We have before us an interesting correspondence between 
 Bishop Bo wen and Mr Clegg on the subject, but our limits 
 will not permit us to enter on it here ; still it is worth the 
 attention of England, that there is cotton of superior quality 
 and in great quantity in Africa. All that is wanting to make 
 this available is civilisation. This is progressing, and now 
 that Lagos is an English possession, there is every reason to 
 hope that English energy will overcome the present difficulties, 
 and that Manchester may ere long be independent of the 
 slave-grown cotton of the Southern States. 
 
 "January 1, 1859. An eventful year has closed; 
 another has begun. What will be its end? The Lord has 
 chastened me sore, crushed me with many trials : my sweet 
 darling removed, the griefs from the mistakes and errors of 
 some of the clergy, the difficulty of managing the congrega- 
 tion, the hardness of faithfully and fully discharging my 
 duties, the sense of my own weakness and shortcomings all 
 weigh me down. My only hope of doing anything, and of 
 getting on at all, is God's promise, 'As thy day, so shall 
 thy strength be,' (Deut. xxxiii. 25.) How little has been 
 done ! God has put me to school again ; and yet He may 
 soon have done with me. For some of my family it would 
 be well if I were spared a season ; but, I feel almost 
 too strongly, that to depart and be with Christ is far better. 
 I was much more willing to live when God gave me a wife ; 
 
THE BISHOP. 583 
 
 and now she is gone, my old indifference to life has returned 
 again. I fear I allow my cares and vexations to trouble me 
 too much, and am not sufficiently resigned to God's will ; yet 
 I am ready, and desire to live only to His service." 
 
 During one of his attacks of fever in the year before, he 
 had written : " The only reason now why I should be un- 
 willing to die would be the difficulty of getting my place pro- 
 perly filled up ; but the Lord will provide." 
 
 On the feast of the Epiphany, (Jan. 6,) the Bishop was 
 able to carry out a long-projected plan of giving a treat to all 
 the schools in and near Freetown. The following account 
 was written in a letter to a friend by one of his kind helpers 
 on this occasion : 
 
 " We had a grand day at Fourah Bay last Thursday, when 
 the Bishop gave a treat to a thousand children on his grounds ; 
 it was the finest sight I have witnessed in Sierra Leone. They 
 met at St George's Church, had a simple service there, and 
 then marched (preceded by a band of music, and carry- 
 ing numerous flags and banners with appropriate mottos 
 
 and devices) to Fourah Bay, where Miss S , and the rest 
 
 of us, had been all the morning making preparations for 
 them and the company. It was a beautiful sight to see the 
 long procession winding through the grounds, forming in a 
 double circle, and at the word of command all seating them- 
 selves on the grass. Their table was the ground, and their 
 cloth the dried grass. The Bishop had killed a cow for the 
 occasion, and fifteen bushels of rice were boiled. 
 
 " The most interesting part of the scene to me, as well as 
 
584 THE BISHOP. 
 
 to many others, was the liberated African boys' school. They 
 certainly acquitted themselves well, and the Bishop was 
 much pleased with the soldier-like way in which they marched, 
 and the loyal manner in which they doffed their hats, and 
 cheered, when the band struck up ' God save the Queen.' 
 
 " The front and the side of Fourah Bay House were orna- 
 mented with appropriate texts and mottos extending the 
 whole length. And Miss S - greatly added to the beauty 
 of the scene by the splendid flags and banners, on one of 
 which she had painted the arms of England. She made a 
 flag for the liberated school ; on which was the text, ' If the 
 Son shall make you free, ye shall be free indeed;' also one 
 for the Bishop, on one side of which she painted his arms, 
 with the words, ' The Lord will give grace and glory ;' and 
 on the other, ' The Lord bless thee and keep thee.' Being 
 the feast of the Epiphany, one flag had the words, ' A light 
 to lighten the Gentiles.' The flag for our school was a very 
 poor affair when compared with the others ; but the devices 
 were good, ' The everlasting gospel,' and ' Blessed are they 
 that hear.' 
 
 " There was an immense concourse of visitors ; almost the 
 whole of Freetown turned out to witness the sight, and to 
 partake of the refreshments provided by the Bishop. On 
 the whole it passed off very well, and was more orderly 
 than we expected for an African entertainment, though there 
 were some of the rabble always attendant on these occasions 
 who abused the Bishop's liberality. He says, that if he is 
 spared three years longer, he will have another/' 
 
 Referring to this occurrence, the Bishop writes : 
 
THE BISHOP. 585 
 
 "I have had an enormous school-treat, five Church 
 schools, two of Kissy, and three of Freetown ; they marched 
 to Fourah Bay with band and banners ; the college was 
 dressed as at Orton, and the long motto, ' Go ye into all the 
 world, and preach the gospel to every creature/ was put on 
 the college, and down it, 'Glory to God in the highest.' 
 Though I could not quite carry out the details as I wanted, 
 yet the whole went on very well A chief from the Bullom 
 shore was there, and was much pleased. As the people are 
 not acquainted with tea and cake, the fare was rice, beef, 
 and palaver sauce. 
 
 " I have been to two of the village churches to administer 
 the Lord's Supper : at one there were nearly two hundred 
 communicants ; at the other (Wellington) there were over two 
 hundred and fifty. Many had the heathen mark, cam-J on 
 their faces in their youth. The women mostly dress in white 
 cotton on these days, with white hankerchiefs round their 
 heads. Some I noticed had their babies tied on their backs, 
 the way that they carry them here. 
 
 " My friend the Bullom chief is in need of a missionary or a 
 school. A young chief from the Cameroons is here, and wants 
 to improve his country. The Makoe people are calling to us 
 to send a missionary to them ; the Miiule people want a way 
 to be opened for the gospel to their country at the Gallinos. 
 
 "The missionary in charge of the grammar school is 
 making an effort amongst the Kroomen here, who are a sort 
 of community by themselves. The room in which they meet 
 is crowded. Yet Freetown is the plague-spot of the colony, 
 and our young men are rapidly and aptly learning the vices 
 of European cities. Our work, with the addition of a few 
 
586 THE BISHOP. 
 
 heathen and Mohammedans, is much the same as in English 
 towns. I have an interesting class in the garrison. I have 
 no chaplain, and can but imperfectly do my duties as a 
 parish priest, from having so many other calls. Try and 
 get a good man to apply. My kind love to everybody. I 
 hope to go to Abeokuta by the next mail." 
 
 In this same letter the Bishop orders desks and seats for 
 a schoolroom, and also seats for a church, to be sent out as 
 a pattern for workmen there. All were to be supplied at his 
 own expense. 
 
 In February, he writes to the same : 
 
 " No chaplain yet. Will no sensible earnest man with a 
 good wife, come here for Christ's sake ! He would have no 
 language to learn for the British colonists. He will receive 
 300 a-year, and I will pay half his house rent." 
 
 On the 8th of February the Bishop held his first visita- 
 tion in the cathedral church of St George's. All the officers 
 on board the ships in the harbour attended, as well as all 
 the clergy in and near Freetown. Mr Hinderer, the devoted 
 missionary of Ibadan, was also present. The charge was 
 listened to with much interest, and afterwards printed in 
 England. But with his usual fastidiousness in reference to 
 all he did, the Bishop records in his diary that it was not 
 what he could have wished. He afterwards entertained the 
 clergy and catechists at Fourah Bay. 
 
 Immediately after this he had to prepare for his long 
 voyage down the coast, and the journey to Abeokuta. 
 
THE BISHOP. 587 
 
 TO THE KEV. H. VENN. 
 
 "Feb-uaryU, 1859. 
 
 "MY DEAR FRIEND, Having made every arrangement 
 for starting for Lagos, I have thought it well to change my 
 plan, as this is the best time of the year for visiting these 
 regions. Later on, it might be difficult to cross the bar at 
 Lagos, and I should not like to come home without having 
 visited these parts. I may be able to smooth matters in 
 Yoruba a little. 
 
 " I hope they will organise the school committee while I 
 am away, and fully ventilate the school and college question. 
 We must not have too many professors in the latter ; we do 
 not want the young men to be taught to preach, so much as 
 to understand visiting, and possess a knowledge of the native 
 language. You should have seen the Moslems in Fourah 
 Bay Road listening to Hinderer preaching in Ako yesterday 
 evening, (Sunday.) They cannot understand English or Arabic, 
 and the grown gentlemen of the colony like to forget the 
 native languages, but I hope they are now paying more atten- 
 tion to them. 
 
 " On the 30th I was down at Kent and the Bananas, and 
 was much pleased with my trip. I am sorry I have no time 
 to describe it. 
 
 " I held my first visitation on the 8th ; so you may imagine 
 that I am busy about getting away. I hope to hold an 
 ordination on my return, and the confirmations ; and shall 
 try to leave this for England, God permitting, in July. 
 
 "Alcock collected about one hundred Timneh yesterday, 
 and as many the Sunday before. They seemed attentive, 
 
588 THE BISHOP. 
 
 though I fear he reckons too much on their knowing a little 
 English. 
 
 " Hinderer's visit has been very refreshing. I have thrown 
 out hints towards the native pastorate, but do not know how 
 
 they will be taken. Yours, 
 
 " J. SIEREA LEONE/' 
 
 We have but very little memoranda of this journey, or of 
 the impression made on those who saw the Bishop on this 
 his first and last episcopal visitation of the farther parts of 
 the diocese, and the last of the many journeys he had under- 
 taken for the extension of his Master's kingdom. All that 
 we have is contained in the following letters, and the very 
 brief notes in his diary : 
 
 " ON BOAED THE STEAMER { RETRIEVER/ OFF THE 
 
 RIVER BONNY, March 4, 1859. 
 
 " . . . . I must try to send a few lines to give you a sketch 
 of my proceedings. Since leaving Sierra Leone, on the 14th 
 February, I have gone over a good deal of ground, but have 
 really seen very little, having gone the round of the mail. 
 The first place where I landed was Cape Coast Castle, where 
 there is a fort, a governor, and a chaplain. The town out- 
 side the fort is partly under British, and partly under native 
 government. The bulk of the people are still heathen, and 
 the difference between their appearance and that of the Sierra 
 Leone population is much in favour of the latter. The fort 
 is the largest and most substantial pile of building I have 
 seen on the coast, and was erected in the days when the 
 Guinea coast was a trading resort of more importance than 
 
THE BISHOP. 589 
 
 it is now. Though some of the natives still live in fine 
 houses, the place is going down, and the general aspect 
 singularly reminded me of Egypt. 
 
 " We had to land in canoes through the surf, which breaks 
 heavily along the coast, and makes a peculiar noise, heard all 
 over the fort. In one of the enclosures is a monumental 
 tablet to Mrs Maclean, better known as L. E. L., who died 
 here under somewhat singular circumstances. I saw the 
 plain, rough room in which she lived, and where she died. 
 A few red tiles mark the place where she lies, over which 
 the black troops often parade. There is no church, a room 
 in the barracks being used for public worship. I hope to 
 get one built, as the few members of our Church have al- 
 ready made a commencement towards obtaining funds for 
 the purpose. The next day (Sunday) we called at Accra, 
 another trading settlement. Major Bird, the acting governor 
 of the Cape Coast, who makes his head-quarters at Accra, 
 was with us. I landed at the old English fort, (Jamestown,) 
 and went about two and a half miles to Christiansdorf, a 
 Danish fort purchased by our Government some years ago, 
 and held a service, attended by the few officers, sonx 
 dents, and the governor. The fort was very like the large 
 Greek convents in the Levant ; the country open and healthy. 
 Some most remarkable ant-hills were visible near the road, 
 very like a collection of conical mud-huts. We left ;i *J P.M. 
 I did not land at Lagos, but went on, expecting to meet 
 H.M.S. Sharpshooter, which was under orders to take me 
 about the coast ; but on reaching Fernando Po, I found she 
 had left. 
 
 "We called at Benin and Brass. At the latter we saw 
 
590 THE BISHOP. 
 
 three or four vessels inside. I left the ship in a boat, in-' 
 tending to pull in ; but meeting a boat, returned with two 
 English gentlemen from the place, who came on board. One 
 of them spoke of the natives as an unimprovable race. I did 
 not wonder much at his remark, for I had overheard him 
 swearing at a little boy in the boat. 
 
 "On the second Sunday, I was at Bonny, a very large 
 branch of the Niger, out of which many hundred negroes 
 have been taken ; now a great mart for palm oil, many 
 thousand puncheons of which have been annually bought 
 here for about 15, and sold in England for 40, by which 
 many Liverpool merchants have made large fortunes. There 
 were about sixteen large British vessels ; many of them had 
 waited twelve or eighteen months for their cargoes of palm 
 oil ; some of them were a thousand tons. About eighteen 
 thousand tons of the oil are exported from this river. Some 
 of the trading agents live in large vessels turned into hulks, 
 and use them as houses and stores. The shore is very low, 
 and the land swampy. The traders came on board for their 
 letters, and I have seldom seen so many English anywhere 
 on the Coast. I arranged to have a service on board, and 
 felt most thankful for the opportunity. A little before 10 
 A.M., I saw many boats pulling off from the various vessels ; 
 and when I went up, there was a good congregation assem- 
 bled more than a hundred white men, a larger number 
 than I had ever seen at St George's. I feel it is most 
 important to have a chaplain appointed for these rivers, 
 to reside here chiefly ; but how to accomplish this is the 
 difficulty. The natives speak the Ilo language, which is also 
 used up the Niger. 
 
THE BISHOP. 591 
 
 " From Bonny I went to Fernando Po. We anchored in 
 Clarence Cove, a very lovely spot. The people are chiefly 
 black liberated Africans, or their descendants. The British 
 once used it as a colony of the same kind as Sierra Leone, 
 but the place belongs to the Spaniards, who have lately 
 resumed the occupation, and interdicted the Protestant wor- 
 ship. The only missionaries there are the Baptists, and they 
 have determined to remove with their whole congregation to 
 Amboises Bay, under the Cameroon mountains, and form a 
 settlement in an uninhabited district. The settlement has 
 arisen out of an emigration of Africans for conscience' sake, 
 the first I believe of the kind. I found there several persons 
 professing to be members of our Church, though we have had 
 no minister there at all, except a transient visitor. My stay 
 was so short that I did not see my way to assemble them ; but 
 had the fact been represented to me earlier, I should have 
 tried to do something for them. Fernando Po appears a 
 beautiful island, quite green and fresh, the hills covered with 
 forest. It was very misty the day we were there, so that we 
 could not see Clarence Peak. I dined at the house of a 
 singular man, Synslager, who has been a sailmaker in a 
 Dutch ship trading to Japan, and was lately acting British 
 consul and Spanish governor of Fernando Po of more ability, 
 I fear, than actual merit. At the Cameroons I saw the Bap- 
 tist missionary, who seems in many respects very fit for his 
 work. He is an ingenious practical mechanic, and has been 
 building a brick house. I was sorry to find that some of the 
 traders openly oppose the mission. The river makes a fine 
 port, though the entrance is intricate. To the north is a 
 beautiful mountain thirteen thousand feet above the sea. I 
 
592 THE BISHOP. 
 
 called here on the chief, King Arqua ; he kept me waiting 
 a long time, and then came dressed in European costume with 
 great parade, and a long staff as a wand of office. He could 
 speak a little English, and was in a bad humour, and made 
 many complaints of the British consul at Fernando Po and 
 our traders. He asked for a Church of England mission. I 
 exhorted him to listen to the Baptist missionaries, who are 
 the only people who have brought the Word of God to his 
 country. The native town was one of the neatest I have seen. 
 The houses, made of split timber, were very airy, though low, 
 long, and narrow, and in straight lines ; the streets wide and 
 clean, shaded with trees. 
 
 " The next place was Old Calabar, about forty miles up the 
 river Calabar ; another fine estuary as large as the Thames at 
 London. There has been a missionary station here of the 
 Presbyterian Church since 1846. They have several stations 
 up the river, and have been working on in faith, seeing little 
 fruit. The people are absorbed in gain. I called on several 
 of the native gentlemen, who are wealthy, but absurd in their 
 manner of displaying it. The house of one of the chief men 
 of the place was a perfect curiosity. The master sat naked 
 to the loins, shiny and fat, surrounded by copper dishes on 
 the walls, and no end of trumpery jugs. A couple of skulls, 
 with a few withered palm-branches over them, formed the 
 Penates in one dwelling ; an inverted earthen jar, on a clay 
 pillar, served the same purpose in another. It is astonishing 
 how little one hundred years of intercourse with Europeans 
 has done for these people. Seven or eight large British 
 ships were taking on board a cargo of palm oil. A chief had 
 been arrested in one of these for debt, and the trade was 
 
THE BISHOP. 593 
 
 stopped. Proper modes of exercising our influence on this 
 coast are much needed. The missionaries have written the 
 Essek language, and have translated part of the Word of God 
 into it. 
 
 " I returned here (Bonny) yesterday evening, and landed 
 at the wretched village, into which vast quantities of English 
 goods are annually imported. The streets are the worst I 
 have seen. The houses, built of wattle and clay, with steep 
 grass roofs, might have been picturesque, were there not such 
 a thoroughly slovenly air about them. I was introduced to 
 one of the leading men as the chief juju man of the English 
 in these parts. The party of gentlemen were sitting on a mat 
 playing cards, with a heap of little copper half rings, used as 
 money, before them. They were so intent upon their game 
 that they did not stop to notice me or my guide, one of the 
 principal mercantile men here. We visited a celebrated juju 
 house, (juju here answers to fetish on the coast farther up.) 
 The inside contained many skulls, placed in the form of an 
 altar and shrine, not unlike the arrangement in a Roman 
 Catholic church, but the place of the pix was occupied by the 
 form of a lizard about a foot long, the back serrated like that 
 of a chameleon. Whether this was real or artificial I did not 
 ascertain. The traders admit that commerce will not civilise. 
 It is sad to see a people so long in contact with us still in 
 heathen darkness. I must try to get something done for 
 them. Several seemed to listen when I tried to tell them 
 the simple tale of the love of God in Christ. One man who 
 came on board made an obeisance to my writing-desk, sup- 
 posing it was a juju I presume. 
 
 " Lagos, March 8th. I have reached this again in safety, 
 
594 THE BISHOP. 
 
 and hope to land to-day. There are no boats off yet ; it is 
 early, and there is a breaking sea on the bar 
 
 "Lagos is a low island in a lagoon. The bar was not 
 very bad when I entered in a canoe with a crew from the 
 Gold Coast. It is becoming a place of considerable import- 
 ance for trade since the slave-trade has been abolished. The 
 efforts of the French to revive that traffic under the name of 
 emigration have just now unsettled matters ; and Koseko, the 
 old slaving chief, was meditating an attempt to recover Lagos, 
 when a visit from a small British steamer convinced him of 
 his error. Things appear to be calming down. . At Lagos 
 there are three churches, with mud walls and grass roofs ; 
 one of them is on the site of a slave factory, and is called 
 the Bread-fruit Church, from some very fine bread-fruit trees 
 which stand in the enclosure, planted by the Portuguese 
 slave-dealers. 
 
 " I held a confirmation here on a Sunday, and thirty-one 
 persons were confirmed, nearly all of whom were converts 
 from heathenism. Many of them were the victims of slavery, 
 which exists as a domestic institution throughout the whole 
 of that part of Africa not under British rule. 
 
 "Monday, March I4<th. I left Lagos early, and crossed 
 the lagoon, having procured a miserable-looking pony to 
 ride on, and a number of men to carry my luggage, includ- 
 ing a tent and some provisions for the way. In an hour we 
 cleared the cultivations, and entered the dense forest, which, 
 with a few openings, continued about half-way to Abeokuta. 
 
 Mr M , who had been one of our fellow-passengers in 
 
 the Ethiope, was my host at Lagos, and accompanied me to 
 Otta, where I passed the first night. Here is a small con- 
 
THE BISHOP. ">95 
 
 gregation under a native missionary. The king called to see 
 me ; he is chief of a village of about two thousand people, 
 and is friendly to the mission. On my return, I confirmed 
 six persons at this village." 
 
 The few words in the diary in which this journey is 
 described, though very broken and abrupt, still give a very 
 good idea of the country ; for which reason we insert them 
 as they are, fearing to be incorrect if we endeavoured to sup- 
 ply the missing words : 
 
 "March loth. Started from Otta at 6.30. The forest 
 dense, very large and lofty timber; the land very good. Then 
 an opening, palm-trees and grass, and bush again. We halt, 
 get on to Osbero ; a blacksmith's shop there. An old woman 
 hot yams people willing to be taught runaway Haussa 
 slaves. 
 
 "March 16$. Set off at 5.30. Pass through pleasant 
 cultivations parrots. Halt at a small market at 7.30. Agidi 
 and hot pepper salad. Kindness of a woman mode of ex- 
 pressing astonishment people express a wish to hear the 
 
 word of God told P to speak to them many soon 
 
 turn, but the scene for a little while was striking. At 10 
 proceed. Cultivated, fine undulating country boulder* 
 distant view of the town (Abeokuta) extensive city." 
 
 We return to the letter : 
 
 "On the Wednesday I reached Abeokuta, being met at 
 the ford of the Ogun, about three miles from the town, by 
 two European missionaries, some of the children of the 
 
596 THE BISHOP. 
 
 school, and members of the congregation, who accompanied 
 us back to the town. I put up at Mr Townsend's. A new 
 church, to supply the place of the old one, is nearly finished ; 
 it contains about 700 people, and is 90 feet by 40 ; on the 
 little tower is a clock. 
 
 " All the people here wear the native costume, which is 
 respectable, though simple and primitive, chiefly a large 
 cloth thrown round the body, covering one shoulder, leaving 
 the other and the arm exposed, a very good costume for a 
 statue. 
 
 " There were 190 persons confirmed, in the presence of a 
 large congregation, on the Friday. Mr Town send addressed 
 them in Yoruba, and I by an interpreter. I trust they under- 
 stood their covenant. On Saturday we had a discussion on 
 making a road to Lagos, and arranged for a meeting with 
 the chiefs. I also visited Ikija, Mr Goldener's station. There 
 are about three stations in Abeokuta under clergymen, one of 
 whom is a native, and a fourth under a catechist ; they are 
 from one and a-half to two miles apart, so you may judge of 
 the extent of the town, which is generally scattered, yet in 
 one place very dense. At one time we passed through a 
 Mohammedan quarter, but did not meet any of the sheiks. 
 
 " On Sunday I had an early service at 6.30, which was well 
 attended. At 10.30 I held an ordination, and admitted Mr 
 Buhlre one of the European missionaries, to priest's orders. 
 The church was very full, many looking in at the windows. 
 I preached briefly from 2 Cor. ii. 15, 16, Tor we are unto 
 God a sweet savour of Christ, in them that are saved, and in 
 them that perish : to the one we are the savour of death unto 
 death ; and to the other the savour of life unto life. And who 
 
THE BISHOP. 597 
 
 is sufficient for these things ? Mr Crowther followed with 
 the same text. The people were very attentive. About 200 
 persons communicated. In the afternoon there was again a 
 large attendance. On Monday a school-treat was given to 
 about 200 children. I addressed them in the church, and 
 afterwards examined them. Sheep, goat, and yams made an 
 excellent stew, which was much enjoyed. Blindinan's buff 
 afterwards afforded immense amusement. After a present 
 of cowries, they departed. Many adults were there, and 
 some interesting little girls in native dresses. 
 
 " I had again three days' journey to Ibadan. The road the 
 first day lay through a rocky open country. The land near 
 the town was well worked, and there were a few very good 
 cotton plantations. I spent the night in the house of a native 
 missionary, Moses, who is supported by the congregation. 
 His salary is three dollars (13s. 6d.) per month ; his cottage 
 was neat and clean. We had prayers in the evening, and I 
 was much pleased with the singing of my native hearers. 
 
 " The second night was at Illogun, a town just beginning 
 to be rebuilt on its former ruins, on which large trees have 
 already established themselves, although the place was only 
 destroyed about thirty-five or forty years ago. 
 
 " At Ibadan I was the guest of Mr and Mrs Hinderer, a 
 very energetic missionary couple. Here twenty-two persons 
 were confirmed. I paid some interesting visits to the chiefs, 
 which I cannot now describe ; they seemed for their circum- 
 stances sensible people. Ibadan is a very fine native town ; 
 the people, for the most part, decently dressed in native 
 cotton cloth. 
 
 " Monday, March 28th. I left for Ijoye, a new and not 
 
598 THE BISHOP. 
 
 prosperous station, and thence returned by Ibadan to 
 Abeokuta. 
 
 " On the Thursday I had an interview with some of the 
 principal chiefs, and made peace between them and some 
 English merchants, who had behaved very foolishly and in- 
 solently towards them. 
 
 " I took leave of the brethren and set out for Lagos on the 
 Friday ; spent the Sunday at Otta, as before mentioned. The 
 people here sing hymns composed by some of themselves to 
 native airs, which are very curious and interesting. Mr Town- 
 send promised to try and write down the music and send it 
 to me. 
 
 "I reached Lagos, thank God, in very good health, the 
 Monday three weeks that I had left it ; and after one day 
 there, had a most favourable passage over the bar, and came 
 into Cape Coast Castle, whence I now write. This morning 
 I have been laying the foundation stone of a new church, 
 just outside the fort. At two P.M., I have a confirmation, 
 for which there are only six candidates ; at four, I give a 
 treat to the school children here, a sheep and some yams ; 
 and I am to dine at the garrison mess in the evening, where I 
 shall meet Chief-Justice Corner. 
 
 "There is no mission of our Church here ; only a colonial 
 chaplain, the Kev. C. S. Hassells. 
 
 "April \%th. My day's work at Cape Coast Castle 
 passed off favourably. On Tuesday the 12th, at seven 
 A.M., I received an address from the corporation, standing 
 under the shade of the fort ; delivered a brief reply, and em- 
 barked at half -past nine in the mail steamer, on board which 
 I now write. You see I was well occupied ; the journey on 
 
THE BISHOP. 599 
 
 the whole has done me good, and I thank God for the comfort 
 He gives me in my mind ; yet one sacred form is scarcely 
 ever absent from my thoughts, and often in turning home- 
 wards to Sierra Leone the sad thought comes, 'She is not 
 there!' 
 
 " April 1 8th. And now through mercy I am at Fourah 
 Bay once more, and most thankful did I feel for thus being 
 brought back well again. I landed in the night at Freetown, 
 Saturday 16th, and came out here on Sunday evening. In 
 this place, as soon as I can be alone, I can only think of my 
 lost darling. This morning when we assembled as usual for 
 morning prayers, I wanted to speak a word on mercies 
 vouchsafed, and read Psalm cxlv. When I had got as far as 
 the words, 'The Lord is holy in all his works,' &c., I could 
 not go on, and was obliged to ask Mr Jones to offer prayer. 
 And yet I feel I have needed this. Yours most affection- 
 ately, J. SIERRA LEONE." 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A sky without a cloud, 
 
 A sea without a wave, 
 These are but shadows of Thy rest 
 
 In this Thy peaceful grave ! 
 
 Rest for the toiling hand, 
 
 Rest for the thought-worn brow, 
 Rest for the weary way -sore feet, 
 
 Rest from all labour now ! 
 
 Soon shall the trump of God 
 
 Give out the welcome sound, 
 That shakes the silent chamber walls, 
 
 And breaks the turf-seal'd ground ! " 
 
 BONAR. 
 
AFTER his return to Sierra Leone on the 1 Gth of April, the 
 Bishop resumed his active earnest life in that place ; and his 
 work was soon increased, as, on account of the epidemic now 
 spreading through the town, many were to be visited and 
 comforted. At the same time confirmations were to be held 
 in the neighbouring villages, and an ordination had been 
 appointed for the 1 5th of May ; there was therefore no time 
 to think of taking necessary care of himself, even if he had 
 been the man to do so. Those who anxiously looked forward 
 to his return to England about this time, dreaded the result 
 of his delaying his journey, until after the unhealthy season 
 had commenced ; but he could not bear to leave his house in 
 an unprovided state, and anxiously endeavoured to supply 
 means of grace, and arrange for the well-being of every place 
 under his charge. In the meantime he took good care to 
 provide against every emergency, and in some of the letters 
 written home by the last mail, which brought tidings from 
 his own hand, he settled about some business matters of his 
 family, so as to facilitate the arrangement of affairs in the 
 event of his removal He also made his will, and took an 
 inventory of his effects at Fourah Bay, still acting according 
 to an oft-repeated saying of his, " to live as if always prepared 
 
604 THE END. 
 
 to depart, and at the same time as if we expected to continue 
 our work on earth/' 
 
 On the 15th, he held an ordination ; and in the following 
 week wrote his last letters home, from one of which we give 
 extracts : 
 
 " Some days ago, since the mail left, there have been four 
 additional deaths in the European community, but all more 
 or less exceptional cases ; and such a mortality has not been 
 known on the coast for years. It makes one feel that after all 
 we are not so safe ; however, not one of our missionary band 
 has yet been touched, and all are about as well as usual. This 
 is a great mercy. What makes me think more of it is that 
 our good friend Dr Bradshaw is gone home, having had a se- 
 vere attack of fever All this seems gloomy, and I am 
 
 sorry I have written so much about it, but my mind is set a 
 little in that direction to-day, so far as earthly things are con- 
 cerned, for I am led to think of the Collect for next Sunday, 
 the fourth after Easter, ' That our hearts may surely there be 
 fixed, where true joys are to be found.' The present state 
 of the town leads us to consider these things now, but there 
 is a bright side too 
 
 " .... I have been very busy of late with an ordination : 
 two Europeans were ordained priests, two natives also priests, 
 and two deacons ; so I shall leave the Colony better supplied 
 with ministers. This was on Sunday last. All have been 
 employed as catechists ; I believe they may be useful. Last 
 Monday I went to Wellington to settle a dispute amongst 
 the church-members, and afterwards confirmed forty-eight 
 persons. On Friday, I go to the village of Kissy for the 
 
THE END. 605 
 
 same purpose, and there commence a series of confirmation- 
 visits to the villages, attending at as many places as I can, 
 in order to avoid bringing numbers together. I hope at the 
 same time to be able to inspect the schools, and must try 
 and organise some plan for the assistance of the village 
 schools. This I must do, if possible, before I leave, as well 
 as arrange some plan for the better preparation of candidates 
 for holy orders ; also, for the proper evangelising of the neigh- 
 bouring countries. We have taken up lately an additional 
 open-air service in Freetown, in low districts, where there 
 are still some heathen ; they have been well attended. 
 
 " There was a very large congregation at the ordination 
 service, and there was a marked improvement in the be- 
 haviour of the children, who came to the church in crowds 
 to see the ceremony. On the whole, there are many items 
 of improvement in many ways, but very much remains to be 
 done. Yours most affectionately, 
 
 "J. SIEREA LEONE." 
 
 On Sunday, the morning of the 22d, the captain of one 
 of H.M. ships, on the coast, was taking leave of the Bishop, 
 whom he saw in his bed before rising, and on shaking hands 
 with him he observed that his hand was as hot as fire, and 
 said, " My dear Bishop, let me take you out to sea with me ; 
 it is your only chance." He replied, " It is too late, thank 
 you ; if I have the fever, it is all over with me ; meanwhile, I 
 may as well do what I can in the way of duty." 
 
 He then rose, and walking from Fourah Bay to Freetown, 
 preached his last sermon in St George's Cathedral Church, 
 on the text, " Set your affections on things above, not on 
 
606 THE END. 
 
 things on earth." The sermon was a remarkable one, and 
 made a great impression on all who heard it ; it was divided 
 in the following manner, as appears from the brief notes he 
 had made : 
 
 " Set your affections on things above. 
 
 " It is hard : 
 " Why ? Because of Ignorance ; 
 
 The occupations of the world ; 
 Many things. 
 
 " Our fallen state Grovelling on the earth ; 
 Earthly. 
 " It is good : 
 
 " The excellency of the things above ; 
 " The happiness they confer in time ; 
 " The preparation for things in eternity. 
 
 " The folly of the opposite : 
 " How fleeting earth's joys. 
 
 " The means of obtaining this : 
 " Conversation ; 
 " Meditation ; 
 " Due use of visitations and trials. 
 
 " Live above the world : 
 " The privilege of doing so. 
 
 " The greatness, the brightness, the beauty, the eternity of 
 heavenly things." 
 
 After the service, he catechised the children; and then, 
 feeling unequal to return to Fourah Bay, he went to his 
 
THE END. 607 
 
 house in the town, and asked for luncheon. When it was 
 set before him, he said he could not eat, and requested 
 coffee ; -but he only tasted it, and set the cup down. He 
 afterwards sent a message to the cook, that he should not 
 want any dinner, but that at five o'clock he would have tea. 
 He drank a cup of tea, and went to bed, and sent for Mr 
 Menzies, to whom he said, " I have caught the fever, and, 
 strange to say, I have suddenly become quite weak/' He 
 did not yet speak of sending for medical assistance. About 
 three hours afterwards, he sent to the barracks for the senior 
 surgeon ; the one civil surgeon then remaining in the colony 
 was at that time confined to his bed. 
 
 " The next morning," writes the Rev. W. L. Neville, " when 
 I saw him, he was calm and composed, and his benevolent, 
 loving countenance wore its usual aspect. He spoke of 
 death, although he did not appear to have any idea that he 
 was lying on his death-bed; for when I asked him if it 
 would not be better for him to be removed out of that hot 
 house (the hottest house in the city by general consent) to 
 Fourah Bay, he said, 'Not to-day, but to-morrow, or next 
 day ;' and when it was afterwards suggested that he should 
 be at once put on board one of the men-of-war in the har- 
 bour, and carried out to sea, he said, ' I have determined to 
 take a sea voyage ; in fact, I mean to go to England next 
 mail/ The next day, the beloved Bishop could not be seen ; 
 he had become worse : and the next, consciousness was 
 gone. It was heartrending to see him, strong and vigorous 
 but a few days before, now with earnest eyes looking about 
 
608 THE END. 
 
 the room, and with one finger pointing on this side and on 
 that side. Consciousness never returned ; coma came on, 
 which ended in death/ 
 
 " Thus has passed away/' continues Mr Neville, " a most 
 pious, godly, active, energetic, warm-hearted, loving prelate. 
 To me his kindness had been as great as it was undeserved ; 
 and I mourn his loss as if he had been my dearest relative." 
 
 It is so difficult to arrange satisfactorily the various narra- 
 tives sent home to England, that we feel we shall better con- 
 vey the right idea of the Bishop's work and death, and the 
 manner in which he was regarded by those around him, by 
 making extracts from these accounts, commencing with that 
 given in the African, a paper published in Freetown : 
 
 " The final blow has been struck The noblest tree of the 
 forest was laid low, when Bishop Bowen ceased to breathe on 
 the morning of the 28th inst. All who were closely con^ 
 nected with the deceased prelate could not fail to observe 
 that a marked change came over him after the sad death of 
 the late lamented Mrs Bowen on the 4th August last. He 
 never got over the effects of that blow. True, he was as 
 active and as zealous as before, mingled as freely and as 
 kindly in social life, was always planning something useful 
 for the promotion of the material interests of the colony, and 
 had many and anxious thoughts as to how he might best 
 promote the welfare of his diocese. Yet could the close 
 observer see and hear from his own lips that the memory of 
 his departed wife was ever fresh and precious, that the deadly 
 wound had been covered, not closed, and that a deep and 
 
THE END. 609 
 
 abiding assault had been made upon his domestic affections ? 
 Having had severe attacks of fever and got well over them, 
 it was fondly thought that his life would be spared to us for 
 many years. When he left us on the 14th February to visit 
 the southern part of his diocese, there were not a few who 
 trembled for the result. Of his two predecessors who went 
 on a similar visitation, the one died on his passage back, and 
 the other shortly after his return to the colony. It was not 
 strange then that many apprehensions were felt as to his 
 never returning. He, however, shared them not. He felt 
 that humanly speaking he ran no greater risk than in re- 
 maining here. He had had the fever, was strong and healthy, 
 and in the prime of life, and there was every probability that 
 he would return to us again. And thus he left, with a few 
 solemn words that all things are in the hands of a covenant 
 God, who would order all well. We can hardly describe the 
 universal pleasure and satisfaction that pervaded our com- 
 munity when tidings of his safe return became known. There 
 was joy and gladness in every eye, and from many a heart 
 were sent up fervent thanksgivings for his arrival. The 
 health of the town had in the meantime been exciting anxiety 
 and alarm. The small-pox had been long and fatally prevalent 
 throughout the colony; the season had been irregular and 
 unusual. The late continuance of the harmattan, and the 
 extreme drought, seemed to forebode a sickly time. Fever 
 of a most malignant type broke out, and several cases of 
 fatality occurred. In this state of things, in order to alpy 
 the general feeling of alarm that was arising, the Bishop, in 
 one of his discourses, expressed his opinion that the cases of 
 
 2Q 
 
610 THE END. 
 
 fever were exceptional, and that he thought there was no 
 epidemic. In this, however, he was mistaken, and he himself 
 was soon to feel the virulence of the prevailing malady. On 
 the 15th May, he held an ordination in the cathedral, and 
 felt so unwell as to request a friend to be ready to proceed 
 with certain parts of the service, in case he should observe 
 signs of weakness in him. He, however, seemed to acquire 
 fresh strength as he proceeded, and was able to conclude 
 the whole service with comfort to himself. The next week 
 was one of what, considering all things, we must really call 
 undue exposure. Though not absolutely ill, he was ailing, 
 yet in this state he went to Wellington on the 16th, where 
 he sp'ent the day in investigating some Church matters in that 
 village. On Friday the 20th he visited Kissy, where he held 
 a confirmation, and also visited a sick servant in the small-pox 
 hospital. On Saturday he came into town, and made several 
 visits to the sick ; and on Sunday morning, the 22d, he walked 
 in from Fourah Bay, and preached that remarkable sermon, 
 which those who heard will not soon forget, exhorting all to 
 1 set their affections on things above/ and alluding most 
 affectingly to the loss of the Heron, with nearly all hands, 
 which had gone down in a tornado. In the afternoon he 
 felt unwell 
 
 " Early on the morning of the 23d he signed his will, which 
 had been some time drawn out ; but he spoke little, and 
 seemed deep in thought 
 
 "He was a man of great energy and strong physical 
 powers, but unhappily did not always keep in mind that an 
 African climate was something very different from the healthy 
 
THE END. Cll 
 
 bracing air of our Canadian possessions. His death has left 
 a void which will not soon be filled up."* 
 
 This was the public testimony of the colony to the man 
 they had lost ; and before we enter on the private and more 
 minute details of his last days, we will add to this the united 
 tribute of the missionary body in Sierra Leone in a minute 
 adopted by them on his decease : 
 
 "This meeting would humbly bow under the almighty 
 hand of our Heavenly Father, and pray that in judgment 
 He may remember mercy. In His infinite wisdom He has 
 thought it good to deprive our infant churches at Sierra 
 Leone, the Yoruba country, and Niger Mission, of their 
 chief pastor, by removing Bishop Bowen from us by death, 
 after one year and five months of indefatigable and self- 
 denying labours in Sierra Leone and the Yoruba country. 
 
 " Humanly speaking, a man better qualified, physically 
 and mentally, for the post the Lord had appointed him to in 
 His Church, could not be found. With great bodily strength, 
 which perhaps proved sometimes a temptation to tax it more 
 than was good, there was united in him a large heart, great 
 practical common sense, deep humility, much love, and an 
 
 almost unlimited hospitality His plans for the 
 
 material and spiritual improvement of the West Coast of 
 Africa were many and large ; and, had he lived to carry 
 them out, under the blessing of Almighty God, much good 
 might have resulted from th.-m." 
 
 * From the African, June 3, 1859. 
 
612 THE END. 
 
 It was one of God's good mercies that he was not left 
 alone to suffer in the great struggle with the enemy the 
 last which shall be overcome. There were kind friends near ; 
 and loving eyes watched to minister tenderly to the wants of 
 their beloved prelate. He had himself in other days min- 
 istered to the wants of sufferers in distant lands, and the 
 tender care he had bestowed on them was now returned 
 tenfold to him ; and one, who smoothed his pillow and 
 soothed his dying hours, thought of the friends at home who 
 looked for tidings of his coming, and wrote some of the de- 
 tails of his last days for them : 
 
 " I was nursing a friend when I last saw our beloved 
 Bishop in health. It was the Saturday before he was taken 
 ill, that he told me there was something he wished me to do 
 for him at Fourah Bay, could I go for a day ? he would let 
 me know when he would be at home. He then informed me 
 when he had fixed to hold the confirmations, and added, that 
 he had so very much to do that week, he had been very 
 anxious and very hard at work, and on that Saturday had 
 been visiting many sick people. 
 
 " On Sunday he preached a very impressive, beautiful ser- 
 mon on Col. iii. 2. If I could speak with you, I could tell 
 you how frequently the four first verses of that chapter had 
 been on his lips and on his heart for some weeks before he 
 was taken ill. I had often wondered at it, but now I see 
 plainly, the Lord was working, doubtless, all that time by 
 those verses, and preparing our dear, dear pastor, for a nearer 
 view of His presence and glory 
 
 " We had the privilege of waiting on, and nursing him. 
 
THE END. (Ho 
 
 We watched beside him ; during the few days of his illness, 
 I never left his side, except for half-an-hour now and then. 
 With the same care as with Mrs Bo wen, and by the same 
 hands, his eyes were closed. I washed and bound his head, 
 as you yourself would have done. Everything that could 
 have been thought of by a tender sister for a beloved 
 brother we did for your sake and that of his family. We 
 hud two doctors for him, who were very attentive and kind. 
 
 Mr and Mrs C , and Mr M , and myself, were always 
 
 with him. 
 
 " When Mrs C and I went on Tuesday to see him, (I 
 
 had wished to go on Monday,) he knew us, and, calling me 
 by name, said, ' How are you ? do you still keep up ? I am 
 down/ Then he told me he longed for sleep and rest, he 
 felt such utter prostration, and so much nervous irritability. 
 All this was from the very nature of the fever ; we always 
 feel it more or less even in slight attacks. I begged him 
 then to let me bathe his hands and head, and he should 
 try to sleep. He knew us all, and would smile so kindly 
 when we spoke to him, and he bid some of us good-bye, by 
 signs again and again ; and though for the first two days he 
 was very restless, he was very patient afterwards, even when 
 I dressed his painful bli 
 
 " And shall I go on with this sad detail of earthly troubles ? 
 I could tell you much more : how he enjoyed Ps. ciii., how 
 sweetly he settled himself and closed his eyes to join with us 
 in prayer, I could speak of his work of love ; but I believe 
 you will hear from others of this great affliction with which 
 it has pleased God to visit us, so I will just add that his 
 Lordship only survived till Saturday the 28th, a quarter 
 
614 THE END. 
 
 past eight A.M. That evening, his remains were carried to 
 the cathedral, and the burial service was read there the next 
 morning, in presence of a large assembly. He was interred 
 beside dear Mrs Bowen, in full hope of a glorious resurrec- 
 tion. How often do I long to join that innumerable com- 
 pany! I could almost desire to flee away to that place 
 where there shall be no more sin, no more grieving of the 
 Spirit of God, no more grovelling on this earth, with its 
 joys and pleasures as fleeting as they are false. 
 
 " I have the last pencil he used on Wednesday, the 25th, 
 when attempting to write : shall I send it to you, with the 
 paper on which he wrote ? He had very little hair on the 
 top of his head ; but I preserved all I could, and forward it. 
 I trust you will be enabled to look above, where Christ 
 sitteth at the right hand of God. Through your beloved 
 brother, God says to you, ' Set your affections on things 
 above, not on things on earth/ May the Lord himself be 
 with you and all your family, to bless, strengthen, and com- 
 fort ! May He so shew to each grieved heart, each wounded 
 spirit, the love and fulness of His salvation, that He may 
 become to each of you the chiefest of ten thousand, your all 
 in all ! " 
 
 Another of the kind watchers by his bed writes : 
 
 " On Tuesday night the Bishop was becoming delirious, 
 but occasionally spoke in his usual tone. One time, as he 
 recovered from delirium, he exclaimed, 'Bless the Lord, 
 my soul : and all that is within me, bless his holy name.' 
 
 Mr C repeated the following verses of the psalm ; and 
 
 the fever returning, he had only time to say, 'Yes; that 
 
THE END. G 1 5 
 
 psalm is very precious to me now/ This was the last sen- 
 tence we heard him utter/' 
 
 One of his native chaplains says, in a letter he kindly 
 wrote to the family : 
 
 " I have had the pleasure of being acquainted with his 
 Lordship from the day he landed on our fatal shores up to 
 the day of his death. As one of his native acting assistant 
 chaplains, I have been often with him, in public and in 
 private, at home and abroad, among heathen and strangers ; 
 and, in truth, I have found him to be a man who loved and 
 feared God, and one who with all his soul and might en- 
 deavoured to do those things which God and Christ are 
 delighted with. He was a man of a full, free heart ; he 
 ministered to the wants of all classes in the colony, and all 
 loved him. The poor and needy, the destitute and oppressed, 
 all found relief at his door. He visited the sick in hospitals, 
 in prison, and in private houses. On one occasion, when the 
 epidemic was raging, I said, ' My Lord, it is not safe for you 
 to go abroad/ He replied, ' Oh, it is time for us to work, 
 and to visit the poor sufferers/ Accordingly, he went out, 
 for the purpose of visiting. 
 
 "On the night of the 16th April last, his Lordship arrived 
 from the coast, apparently in good health ; but, alas ! it was 
 only to enter into his grave. Soon after his return, in his 
 accustomed restless activity, he commenced arranging the 
 churches, and setting in order the things that were wanted. 
 He gave notice for ordination and confirmation services ; nor 
 did he neglect his private affairs, but took an inventory of 
 
616 THE END. 
 
 all his household goods, and told me he would leave some- 
 thing for the comfort of his successors. 
 
 " Little thought we, when so recently (on Ordination-Day, 
 May 15) we beheld the dear man of God exercising those 
 holy functions to which God in His providence had called 
 him, at that time the healthiest and strongest of us, that he 
 was within a few days of the end of his pilgrimage, and had 
 but two more Sabbaths here ere he entered on that Sabbath 
 of eternity for which his spirit had been ripening so fast, 
 and was so meet. This mysterious providence, so unexpected 
 and so lamentable, falls heavily upon the Church of Africa, 
 It is a great loss to us, and to our benighted brethren far 
 and wide. They, too, have known and have heard of him, 
 and loved him 
 
 " What shall we do, but submit our will to the will of God, 
 and have it as God would have it ? He is taken away in the 
 midst of great usefulness. I am unable to give you a com- 
 plete account of his labours amongst us. Much as we have 
 loved him, deeply as we deplore his loss, affectionately as we 
 cherish the remembrance of his work of faith and labour of 
 love, we cannot wish him back. No ! he is now at rest, 
 enjoying the presence of his gracious Lord and Master, free 
 from all pain and sorrow, and the voice which echoes from 
 his grave bids us follow after. .... 
 
 " Long ago his heart was in heaven ; he was, indeed, 
 anxious to be there. On one occasion he was heard to say, 
 ' What are these around me ? ' alluding to his worldly affairs ; 
 ' I am ready to leave them at any moment.' After the death 
 of his beloved wife, he became quite indifferent to the things 
 of time and sense. His greatest pleasure was only to do the 
 
THK KNi). <)I / 
 
 work of his heavenly Father. In giving instruction to the 
 rhildivn in the Sunday-school, he generally dwelt on spiritual 
 and heavenly things, simplifying them by natural. I must 
 now close, and commit all things into the hands of a wise 
 mid gracious God, trusting that what we know not now we 
 shall know hereafter." 
 
 Another friend writes : 
 
 " I was often struck with his extreme gentleness, meek- 
 and deep humility, when, at the same time, he must 
 have known and felt his own superiority and extensive 
 knowledge, as well as his right to claim the attention and 
 respect of every one. He was much respected by all ; and I 
 hear persons who are not much inclined to religion say 
 frequently, ' We shall never have such another bishop as our 
 invaluable Bishop Bowen/ 
 
 " A bishop here has too much to do, he has so many offices 
 besides his own ; and I am sure the varied responsibility 
 has been too much for all our bishops. And Bishop Bowen 
 felt this much, as he was often greatly pressed with busi- 
 ness in endeavouring to compass all." 
 
 Many were the testimonies borne to the work Bishop 
 Bowen had accomplished in Sierra Leone, in the short time 
 he was permitted to labour there. Whatever he saw was to 
 be done, he attempted to accomplish ; and did succeed in 
 doing more than most men would have thought of. He was 
 not content with being bishop ; but was, at the same time, 
 the earnest, working parish priest; superintending every 
 detail, and accomplishing very much of the work himself. 
 
618 THE END. 
 
 As we find it noticed of him, he never failed to observe the 
 unfilled places of those accustomed to attend his church ; 
 and to inquire into the cause of their absence, either by a 
 personal call or a deputy. Bible-classes for inquirers, meet- 
 ings with heathen or Mohammedans, fresh openings for 
 missionary work, nothing was overlooked or deemed un- 
 worthy of his consideration. Again we quote from one of 
 his native chaplains : 
 
 " He did many things in a little time ; and truly, as was 
 remarked by a sincere friend, ' his death was not sudden, 
 but his work was finished.' Where did he not go? what 
 did he not do, that could be expected of a Christian minister 
 and bishop ? What classes of people were not acquainted 
 with him ? Now among the soldiers, now in the day-school, 
 or infant school, always in the Sunday-school to catechise the 
 children, from 3.30, to 4, though he had but just finished 
 preaching. He was ready to converse with all classes of 
 men, at home or abroad, in the streets, at the wharf, and 
 other landing-places, wherever an opportunity offered itself. 
 Now in the hospital now in the city gaol. See him among 
 the idol-worshippers, chasing the devil-dancers, and preach- 
 ing the gospel of Jesus Christ. See him among Moham- 
 medans, freely and cheerfully conversing with them in the 
 Arabic language on the wonderful works of God, trying 
 if possible to convince them of their error, powerfully 
 advocating the doctrines of Christ's holy religion. Neither 
 the enervating influence of the climate, nor the bereavement 
 which agonised his soul, could induce him (except from 
 inevitable necessity) to slacken his Christian course. He 
 
THE END. fill) 
 
 could be seen under the 1 heat of the sun going up Tower- 
 hill, to instruct the soldiers ; at other times, setting out to 
 perform duties under the heavy rains. It seemed, truly, as 
 if the apostle's injunction, ' Give thyself wholly to these 
 things/ and the apostle's example, ' This one thing I do,' 
 were ever present to his mind. 
 
 "Lastly, with what profound humility and ready sub- 
 mission, did he bow to the trying and afflictive dispensation 
 through which he was called to pass. .... He said to me 
 a few days after, ' God has done this to try me ; I have 
 nothing to do now, but to work/ 
 
 " On the Sunday after his wife's death he was in church ; 
 and the second Sunday he was again in the pulpit ; and 
 thus he continued until it pleased his heavenly Father to 
 
 remove him to eternal rest I know but little of his 
 
 visit to Abeokuta. His servant, who went with him, said he 
 was the same person wherever he went, preaching, holding 
 ordinations and confirmations, feasting the children, and 
 giving presents to the different chiefs and headmen. We 
 believe he will not soon be forgotten by those in that far- 
 distant land." 
 
 It was not only those connected with the Church Mission- 
 ary work who mourned for Bishop Bowen. All denomina- 
 tions felt that "a prince and a great man in Israel" had 
 fallen, and that God's work had suffered loss. He had the 
 happy gift of holding fast to his own views and concilia tin. ^ 
 the regards of others ; no one could be in company with 
 him without feeling that he was a man of God. 
 
 We shall conclude the testimonies to his work in Sierra 
 
620 THE END. 
 
 Leone by an extract from a letter of a native schoolmaster 
 whom the Bishop had employed as a Scripture-reader : 
 
 " He was so condescending and kind, that at his gate, to 
 his very door, might be constantly seen the poor and the 
 infirm, applying for aid. He was always ready to hear the 
 petition of the humblest individuals, so that he was generally 
 beloved by all classes in the community. When he went 
 down the coast, many were the prayerful wishes of the poor 
 for his safe return. Many would say to me, ' Which time 
 massa go, come? We hope God will keep him for us.' 
 Not only the poor, but the generality of the inhabitants, 
 prayed for his safe arrival. At his return, many who heard 
 of it asked me, ' Is it true your massa come ? Thank God ! 
 thank God he came safely ! 
 
 " The heavenly-mindedness which we could not but 
 observe, made us feel that our dear Bishop was ripe for 
 glory, and we were often astonished at his utter indifference 
 to his own personal comforts. 
 
 " One Sunday evening, the last I spent with him, he 
 preached in Allen Street to a goodly number ; and after the 
 meeting he invited me to tea. On our way we met a poor 
 boy who was lame ; he immediately found another boy, and 
 offered to pay him if he would take the lame boy home. 
 The lad readily consented, and he remunerated him for his 
 service. I shall never forget the interesting conversation 
 we had together. Two Sundays after this he was in 
 heaven/' 
 
 We feel that in supplying the varied details of the Bishop's 
 
THE END. G21 
 
 work and death, we have not kept as clear of repetition as 
 has been our aim throughout this memoir, but there was so 
 much of simplicity in his character that it seemed better to 
 give the simple accounts as they came, than to dress up a 
 narrative from them. 
 
 His own letters, and the testimonies of those who knew 
 him, will best illustrate John Bowen's work in the world. It 
 was unusually varied and eventful. One lesson we may 
 learn from the manner in which he fulfilled the duties of 
 each station in which God had placed him, is, that it is not 
 so necessary to put the right man in the right place, as that 
 each man should remember that too-often-forgotten sentence 
 of the best catechism ever yet composed, " to do my duty 
 in that state unto which it shall please God to call me." 
 Let us look for a moment at the subject of this memoir. 
 We see first, the diligent school-boy, winning all hearts, both 
 of school-fellows and master. Then the young settler in 
 Canada, giving himself up to manual labour with as much 
 earnestness as he afterwards did to the working of his diocese. 
 We next find him with a changed purpose of life, preparing 
 to sow the seed for another harvest. He who so lately had 
 handled the axe and held the plough, was soon taking a good 
 place amongst the students in college, and holding back his 
 eager mind lest he should love study too well. Again, as the 
 curate of a country town, he is still distinguished for the 
 determined self-denying life of work, valued by his rector 
 and beloved by the flock : " the very man for us," they say. 
 We cannot speak of him as a landlord, for he never lived 
 upon his own estate for more than a few months ; though on 
 one occasion, when he laid aside his clerical coat, and took his 
 
622 THE END. 
 
 Canadian axe and cut down a tree, while the labourers looked 
 on with admiration to see how much his dexterity at that 
 sort of work excelled theirs, one of them exclaimed, "Oh, 
 if he would but live amongst us, it would be good for us." 
 We have then to follow him as the exploring and resident 
 missionary, " the very man for the East/' said those who saw 
 him there*. " If Mr Bowen had been at Nablous/' said the 
 native Protestants of Nazareth, " the outbreak there would 
 never have taken place ; the very cadi came to him for 
 advice, and valued him/' And when arrived at the last 
 station on the way, " We have indeed a Bishop suited to us," 
 said the people of Sierra Leone, and so decidedly as if they 
 thought he could not possibly be better placed for usefulness 
 than amongst them. 
 
 I never knew him but in one place, where he seemed ill- 
 suited to the position he occupied, and that was as the 
 rector of a small country parish. He overdid that ; the 
 sphere was too small for his energetic mind. " I know very 
 well," he said himself, in reference to this, " how to manage 
 a farm, but I cannot cultivate a garden/' And yet I believe 
 that all who saw him there would not agree with him or me 
 in this. Little has been said of his private life ; it has not 
 been our intention to bring forward more of that than was 
 necessary, but it is just to add, that in this he was not want- 
 ing ; in every relation, son, brother, husband, he was so 
 loving and so bright, so thoughtful for others, and so forget- 
 ful of self. The blank he has left in his own circle is one 
 never to be filled again on earth. As one of them, I may be 
 allowed to say that his life was of scarcely less value to us 
 than to the Church ; and yet we cannot mourn for him, we 
 
THE END. 
 
 623 
 
 cannot wish lie bad not gone forth to the fever-stricken 
 homes of Sierra Leone : his place was there, to carry the 
 message of peace to the dying soul. He shrank not from 
 danger. And as the world admires, and will admire the brave 
 man in the battle-field, we say of him, as the man of God, 
 ildier of Christ He has fought the good fight, he has 
 gained the victory, and won the crown ! God has called him 
 to the higher place. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 it 
 
 " And we also bless Thy holy name, for all Thy servants departed this 
 life in Thy faith and fear; beseeching Thee to give us grace so to follow 
 their good examples, that, with them, we may be partakers of Thy heavenly 
 kingdom." 
 
 2 r: 
 
IN bringing this Memoir to a conclusion, it will scarcely be 
 out of place to add a brief notice of one of those works which 
 it is hoped will long follow him who now rests from his 
 labours in the land of his brief but active episcopate. 
 
 Each successive Bishop of Sierra Leone has earnestly 
 desired to see this long-established mission begin to pass 
 into a self-supporting Church, supplied with its own native 
 ministers. Bishop Bowen was engaged at the time of his 
 death in organising a scheme for carrying out this much- 
 desired object. Though he was not permitted to see its 
 accomplishment, the result has proved that the time for it 
 was fully come. His successor, Bishop Beckles, has, through 
 the blessing of God upon his zealous efforts, been able within 
 the first year of his episcopate to transfer no less than NINE 
 churches, with all their responsibilities, to the native pastorate. 
 The native ministers of these churches are supported in part 
 by a local fund raised for the purpose, partly by their own 
 congregations. 
 
 Several of the friends of Bishop Bowen, both at home and 
 abroad, (including a large number of Europeans and natives 
 in his West African diocese,) were doimus to raise some 
 la>tini' missionary memorial of his self-sacrificing life and 
 
628 IN MEMORIAM. 
 
 labours in the cause of missions in various parts of the 
 world ; and, under the above-mentioned circumstances, they 
 thought that they could not do so more suitably than by col- 
 lecting a sum of money, under the title of " Bishop Bowen's 
 Memorial Fund," to assist in this great work of establishing 
 the native pastorate in Sierra Leone on a self-supporting 
 basis. 
 
 The amount at present raised is about 900, but it is 
 hoped that it will reach 1000, so that there may be an 
 annual income from the fund of 50. 
 
 On the recommendation of Bishop Beckles, WELLINGTON, 
 one of the nine districts above mentioned, has been selected 
 to receive the first benefit of this fund, which assists the 
 contributions of the parishioners on the spot, in strict ac- 
 cordance with the original plan. At present there is only a 
 school-room in the district, but the Bishop is about to erect 
 a new church, to be called the " Memorial Church/' and is 
 now raising the necessary funds for its completion. 
 
 Should the district of Wellington hereafter cease to require 
 the assistance of the fund, a grant or grants will be extended 
 to other districts in or around Sierra Leone, or even to more 
 distant portions of that vast diocese. Thus the late excellent 
 Bishop Bowen, though dead, may yet speak, for generations to 
 come, by the mouth of many a minister from among Africa's 
 own sons, that gospel of a Redeemer's love which is "the 
 power of God unto salvation to every one that believeth." 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
 A. PAGE 58. 
 
 OF all questions affecting the interests and welfare of th'e 
 Church on earth, none can be regarded as more important 
 than that of the due ministerial call. This, by its presence 
 or absence, determines the difference between the qualified 
 and unqualified minister. On this point Mr Bowen's views 
 were very earnest and emphatic. Writing of his entrance 
 on the work, his friend Mr Gribble makes the following 
 allusion on this head : " He had put his hand to the 
 plough, and when urged to relinquish it, he would not look 
 back, for he was called by his Master Christ to work as 
 a labourer, as a servant, as an apostle, in the discharge of 
 his duty to the King of heaven." 
 
 Happily, we can add the Bishop's own views, conveyed in 
 a sermon preached at Freetown on the occasion of an ordi- 
 nation. Addressing his congregation, and especially those 
 m whom lu> was about to lay his hands, he says : 
 
032 APPENDIX. 
 
 " I must add a few words on the minister's call, (' over 
 which flock the Holy Ghost hath made you overseers/) 
 Brethren, that is a solemn question which will be asked of 
 those persons who are about to enter the first grade of holy 
 orders ' Do you trust that you are inwardly moved by the 
 Holy Ghost to take upon you this office and ministration?' 
 Yes, here is the call, the Holy Spirit impressing upon 
 the mind a readiness for the work, the providence of God 
 opening the way ! Here, too, is a vast responsibility ; the 
 higher the confiding power, the weightier the duty. God the 
 Holy Ghost calls the man to the service of God the Son. 
 What a motive to exertion ! " 
 
 The language of Archdeacon Sandford, in his recent 
 " Bampton Lectures," is very remarkable : 
 
 " \Ve ask for ' workmen that need not to be ashamed, 
 rightly dividing the word of truth/ scribes instructed unto 
 the kingdom of God. Above all, for men whose hearts God 
 Himself has touched ; who have the anointing and the seal 
 of the Holy Ghost ; who, whether they minister in our 
 churches, or labour in our parishes, or teach in our schools, 
 will speak out of the abundance of their own hearts, and of 
 the ability which God has given ; who can say with the 
 apostle, ' That which we have seen and heard declare we 
 unto you ; ' whose words will be not merely what man's 
 wisdom teacheth, but what the Holy Ghost teacheth." 
 
 And most solemn and most affecting is his appeal to those 
 then present in the University Church of Oxford, destined 
 in after-time to be ministers of Christ. Turning to the under- 
 graduates' galleries, he exclaims 
 
 " I would affectionately beseech you for Christ's sake, 
 
APPENDIX. 633 
 
 for the Church's sake, for the sake of those amongst whom 
 you may be called hereafter to minister, for the support 
 and consolation and salvation of your own souls, when trials 
 and troubles, and sickness and bereavement come, and you 
 are in deep waters, and the floods threaten to swallow you 
 up, to look the vows and the work that are before you in 
 the face ; and to be sure at least of this, that you are sin- 
 cere and in earnest, and yourselves converted men, before 
 you take holy orders. 
 
 " Ponder, I would say, the qualifications required of one 
 who is to be a minister of the sanctuary, an ambassador of 
 
 God, a servant and apostle of the Lord Jesus May 
 
 your preparation be laid in the heartfelt experimental know- 
 ledge of Him Whom you are to preach to others, and Whose 
 cause you can never promote but as you are called and led 
 by Him, and offer Him the sacrifice of your spirits, souls, 
 and bodies, which are His." 
 
 B. PAGE 176. 
 
 Mr Gribble forwarded the MS. of the first sermon 
 preached by Mr Bowen after his ordination. Its insertion 
 is not deemed advisable from considerations of space. It 
 may be observed, however, that every line of it sets forth 
 the earnest desire of the young minister to " make known 
 boldly the mysteries of the gospel." The text was Ephesians 
 
 vl 19. 
 
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