"3f" '^ *"' T "**" .1, .1... ./:::,.... fa< J %, ..rl.. PA.RT II '^'1 < 'frATTf 1 pP T 1U :, ; 111 Ijl . GIFT OF Serial No. 34 DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE U. S. COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY E. LESTER JONES, SUPERINTENDENT UNITED STATES COAST PILOT ALASKA PART II YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN FIRST EDITION PRICE,- 5'6 GEM'S WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT FEINTING OFFICE 1916 DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE, U. S. COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY, Washington, D. C., February 29, 1916. This publication covers the coast of Alaska from Yakut at Bay to the Arctic Ocean, including the Aleutian Islands. In the surveyed areas it is based upon the work of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, while in the unsurveyed areas it is a compilation of information gathered from a wide variety of sources. The material was gathered by the coast pilot section, assisted by various field officers, and the final compilation made by R. S. Patton, chief, coast pilot section, and A. L. Giacomini, nautical expert, under the direction of Herbert C. Graves, chief of the division of hydrog- raphy and topography, Coast and Geodetic Survey. Navigators are requested to notify the Superintendent of the Coast and Geodetic Survey of any errors or omissions they may find in this publication, or of additional matter which they think should be inserted for the information of mariners. E. LESTER JONES, Superintendent. 3 335671 CONTENTS. Note Navigational aids and the use of charts General information (Yakutat Bay to Arctic Ocean) Tides Currents Directions, Yakutat Bay to Kodiak Yakutat Bay to Cape St. Elias. . . . Cape St. Elias to Prince William Sound : Controller Bay Katalla Bay Copper River Middleton Island Prince William Sound : Currents, Prince William Sound . Port Etches Constantino Harbor Zaikof Bay Rocky Bay Northwest shore of Hinchinbrook Island Orca Bay Orca Inlet Currents, Orca Inlet Directions, Orca Bay Fidalgo Bay Tatitlek Narrows and Virgin Bay Valdez Arm Directions, Port Valdez Islands in Prince William Sound Prince William Sound, northwest part Passage Canal Directions," Passage Canal Knight Island and associated is- lands Knight Island Passage Directions, Knight Island Pas- Drier Bay Directions, Drier Bay. Page. 20 21 23. 25 28 30 32 34 34 35 36 38 38 39 39 40 42 43 43 44 48 48 50 51 52 54 55 55 58 61 62 63 Page. Prince William Sound Contd. Montague Strait 64 Latouche and Elrington Pas- sages 66 Directions, Latouche and El- rington Passages 68 Prince of Wales Passage 68 Kenai Peninsula, South Coast : Cape Puget to Cape Resurrection 69 Resurrection Bay . 70 Directions, Resurrection Bay. . . 71 AialikBay 72 NukaBay 73 Point Gore 75 Port Dick 76 Chugach Islands 76 Directions, inside Pearl and Eliz- abeth Islands 78 Directions, Point Gore, inside East Chugach Island 78 Barren Islands 79 Cook Inlet 80 Currents, Cook Inlet 83 Directions, Cook Inlet 85 Port Chatham 86 Directions, Port Chatham 87 Coast from Port Chatham to Sel- dovia 87 Port Graham 88 Directions, Port Graham 89 Seldovia Bay 90 Directions, Seldovia Bay 91 Eastern shore of Cook Inlet 92 Western shore of Cook Inlet 97 Kodiak and Afognak Islands 105 East coast of Shuyak and Afog- nak Islands 105 Marmot Bay 107 Danger Bay '. 109 Directions, Danger Bay 110 Afognak Bay 110 Directions, Afognak Bay Ill Afognak Strait 112 6 CONTENTS. Page. Kodiak and Afognak Islands^- Continued. Directions, Afognak Strait 113 Chiniak Bay and St. Paul Harbor 114 Southern entrance 115 Northern entrance 115 Channel westward of Near Is- land 116 Directions, St. Paul Harbor. . . 117 Narrow Strait to Whale Passage. 119 Whale Passage 120 Kupreanof Strait 121 Directions, Kodiak to Shelikof Strait 123 Shelikof Strait 124 West Coast of Shuyak and Afog- nak Islands 125 MalinaBay 127 Viekoda Bay 128 Uganik Passage 129 Uganik Bay 130 Directions, Uganik Bay 132 Uyak Bay 132 Directions, Uyak Bay 135 Cape Uyak to Cape Karluk 135 Kodiak Island, south coast 136 Trinity Islands 139 Alitak Bay 141 Directions, Alitak Bay 145 Chirikof Island 146 Semidi Islands 147 Alaska Peninsula 147 Directions, Cape Ikti to Cape Kalekta 148 Shaw Island to Takli Island .... 152 Takli Island to Cape Ikti 156 ChignikBay 157 Cape Ikti to Kupreanof Point. . . 161 Kupreanof Point to Cape Aliak- sin 164 Shumagin Islands 166 Simeonof Island 166 Little Koniuji Island 167 Chernabura Island 168 Bird Island 168 Big Koniuji Island 168 East Nagai Strait 169 Nagai Island 170 West Nagai Strait 173 Andronica Island 174 Gorman Strait 174 Korovin Island.. 174 Page. Alaska Peninsula Continued. Shumagin Islands Continued. Karpa Island 175 Popof Island 175 Popof Strait 176 Directions, Popof Strait 176 Unga Island 178 ZacharyBay 181 Unga Strait 181 Cape Aliaksin to Belkofski 182 Pavlof Islands 183 Belkofski to Ikatan Bay 185 Sannak Islands 187 Ikatan Bay and Isanotski Strait. 191 Ikatan Peninsula 192 Unimak Island, Otter Cove to Cape Sarichef 194 Aleutian Islands 196 Fox Islands and Passes 196 Directions, Unimak Pass 198 Ugamak Island 199 Tigalda Island 200 Avatanak Island 200 Rootok Island 201 Akun Island 201 Akutan Island 202 Akutan Pass 204 Directions, Akutan Pass 204 Unalga Island 205 Unalga Pass 205 Directions, Unalga Pass 205 Unalaska Island 206 Beaver Inlet 206 English Bay..... 207 KalektaBay 208 Unalaska Bay 208 Dutch Harbor 209 Iliuliuk Harbor 210 Directions, Unalaska Bay 211 North coast of Unalaska Is- land 213 South coast of Unalaska Is- land 214 Umnak Pass 215 Bogoslof Island 215 Umnak Island 216 Islands of Four Mountains 217 Yunaska, Amukta, and Chagu- lak Islands 218 Seguam Island 218 Andreanof Islands 218 Adak Island 220 Rat Islands... 222 CONTENTS. Aleutian Islands Continued. Page. Kiska Island 222 Buldir Island 223 Agattu Island 224 Attu Island 224 Bering Sea 224 Bristol Bay 229 Coast from Unimak Pass to PortMoller 229 PortMoller 231 Herendeen Bay 232 Port Moller to Kvichak River. 233 Kvichak Bay and River 236 Nushagak Bay and River 238 Directions, Nushagak Bay and River 243 Cape Constantino to Cape Newenham 245 Kuskokwim Bay and River 246 Currents, Kuskokwim Bay and River 250 Directions, Kuskokwim Bay and River 251 Pribilof Islands 254 St. George Island 254 Otter Island 255 Walrus Island 255 St. Paul Island 255 Nunivak Island. . 257 Bering Sea Continued. Page. St. Matthew and adjoining islands 259 Cape Vancouver to Apoon Pass . 260 St. Lawrence Island 263 Norton Sound 265 St. Michael 266 St. Michael Bay to Cape Darby. 266 Golofnin Bay 267 Rocky Point to Cape Nome. . . 268 Directions, Unimak Pass or Cape Kalekta to Norton Sound or Port Clarence 269 Directions, Isanotski Strait to St. Michael 270 Coast from St. Michael to Apoon Pass 271 Apoon Pass 273 Coast from Cape Nome to Bering Strait 274 Port Clarence 276 Directions, Port Clarence 277 Arctic Ocean 277 Kotzebue Sound 282 Hotham Inlet 284 Kotzebue Sound to Point Bar- row 285 Coast Eastward of Point Barrow. 289 INDEX.. 291 NOTE. The courses and bearings given in degrees are true, reading clock- wise from at north to 360, and are followed by the equivalent magnetic value in points in parentheses. General directions, such as northeastward, west-southwestward, etc., are magnetic. Distances are in nautical miles, and may be converted approxi- mately to statute miles by adding 15 per cent to the distances given. Currents are expressed in knots, which are nautical miles per hour. Except where otherwise stated, all depths are at mean lower low water. Supplements and other corrections for this volume are issued from time to time, and will be furnished, free of charge, on application to the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C., provided the volume itself has not been superseded by a subsequent edition. 3 UNITED STATES COAST PILOT. ALASKA PART II YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN. NAVIGATIONAL AIDS AND THE USE OF CHARTS. The Coast and Geodetic Survey is charged with the survey of the coasts, harbors, and tidal estuaries of the United States and its insu- lar possessions and issues the following publications relating to these waters as guides to navigation: Charts, Coast Pilots, Tide Tables, a catalogue of these publications, and Notice to Mariners, the last named published weekly by the Bureau of Lighthouses and Coast and Geodetic Survey. Charts bear three dates which should be understood by persons using them (1) the date (month and year) of the edition, printed on the late charts below the border in a central position and on the older ones on the face of the chart; (2) the date of the latest correc- tion to the chart plate, printed in the lower left-hand corner below the border; (3) the date of issue, stamped below the border and just to the left of the subtitle. Charts show all necessary corrections as to lights, beacons, buoys, and dangers, which have been received to the date of issue, being hand corrected since the latest date printed in the lower left-hand corner. All small but important corrections occurring subsequent to the date of issue of the chart are published in Notices to Mariners, and should be applied by hand to the chart immediately after the receipt of the notices. The date of the edition of the chart remains unchanged until an extensive correction is made on the plate from which the chart is printed. The date is then changed and the issue is known as a new edition. When a correction, not of sufficient importance to require a new edition, is made to a chart plate, the year, month, and day are noted in the*wwer left-hand corner. All the notes on a chart should be read carefully, as in some cases they relate to the aids to navigation or to dangers that can not be clearly charted. The charts are various in character, according to the objects which they are designed to subserve. The most important distinctions are the following: 1. Sailing charts, mostly on a scale of approximately 17200,000 which exhibit the approaches to a large extent of coast, give the offshore soundings, and enable the navigator to identify his position as he approaches from the open sea. 9 10 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 2. General charts of the coast, on scales of 40 o?ooo and 20 o?ooo intended especially for coastwise navigation. 3. Coast charts, on a scale of 80j ^ 00 , by means of which the navi- gator is enabled to avail himself of the channels for entering the larger bays and harbors. 4. Harbor charts, on larger scales, intended to meet the needs of local navigation. COAST PILOTS, relating to the surveyed waters of the United States, Porto Rico, and a part of Alaska, and Sailing Directions of the Philippine Islands, contain full nautical descriptions of the coast, harbors, dangers, and directions for coasting and entering harbors. Similar information relating to parts of Alaska and Hawaii is pub- lished in Coast Pilot Notes. Coast Pilots are corrected for important information received to the date of issue, which is stamped on the correction sheets accom- panying the volume. From time to time, as the material accumu- lates, supplements are issued, containing the more important cor- rections since the publication of the volume. The supplements are printed on one side of the paper only, so that they may be cut and pasted in the appropriate places in the volume. Supplements and other corrections for any volume can be furnished, free of charge, on application to the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C., provided the volume itself has not been superseded by a subsequent edition. TIDE TABLES. The Coast and Geodetic Survey Tide Tables are issued annually in advance of the year for which they are made, and contain the predicted time and height of the tides for each day in the year at the principal ports of the world, including the United States and its possessions. A table of tidal differences is given by means of which the tides at more than 3,000 intermediate ports may be obtained. Separate reprints from the general Tide Tables are issued for the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of the United States and its dependencies. AGENCIES for the sale of the Charts, Coast Pilots, and Tide Tables of the Coast and Geodetic Survey are established in many ports of the United States and in some foreign ports. They can also be purchased in the office of the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washing- ton, D. C., or any of the suboffices of the Survey. If ordered by mail, prepayment is obligatory. Remittances should be made by postal money order or express order, payable to the "Coast and Geodetic Survey." Postage stamps, checks, and drafts can not be accepted. The sending of money in an unregistered letter is unsafe. Only catalogue numbers of charts need be mentioned. Th cata- logue of charts and other publications of the Survey can be obtained free of charge on application at any of the sale agencies or to the Coast and Geodetic Survey Office, Washington, D. C. OTHER PUBLICATIONS. Lists of Lights, Buoys, and other Day- marks of the United States, its insular possessions, and the Great Lakes, are published by the Bureau of Lighthouses. Notice to Mariners, relating to the same waters, are published weekly by the Bureau of Lighthouses and Coast and Geodetic Survey. These pub- lications can be obtained free of charge on application to the Divi- sion of Publications, Department of Commerce, Washington, D. C. NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 11 USE OF CHARTS. ACCURACY OF CHART. The value of a chart depends upon the char- acter and accuracy of the survey on which it is based, and the larger the scale of the chart the more important do these become. In these respects the source from which the information has been compiled is a good guide. This applies particularly to the charts of the Alaska Peninsula, Aleutian Islands, Arctic Ocean, and part of Bering Sea and the Philippine Islands. The early Russian and Spanish surveys were not made with great accuracy, and until they are replaced by later surveys these charts must be used with caution. With respect to these regions the fullness or scantiness of the soundings is another method of estimating the completeness of a chart. When the soundings are sparse or unevenly distributed it may be taken for granted that the survey was not in great detail. A wide berth should therefore, be given to every rocky shore or patch, and this rule should invariably be followed, viz, that instead of considering a coast to be clear unless it is shown to be foul, the contrary should be assumed. With respect to a well-surveyed coast only a fractional part of the soundings obtained are shown on the chart, a sufficient number being selected to clearly indicate the contour of the bottom. When the bottom is uneven the soundings will be found grouped closely to- gether, and when the slopes are gradual fewer soundings are given. Each sounding represents an actual measure of depth and location at the time the survey was made. Shores and shoals where sand and mud prevail, and especially bar harbors and the entrances of bays and rivers exposed to strong tidal currents and a heavy sea, are subject to continual change of a greater or less extent, and important ones may have taken place since the date of the last survey. In localities which are noted for frequent and radical changes, such as the entrance to a number of estuaries on the Atlantic, Gulf, and Pacific coasts, notes are printed on the charts calling attention to the fact. It should also be remembered, that in coral regions and where rocks abound it is always possible that a survey with lead and line, however detailed, may have failed to find every small obstruction. For these reasons when navigating such waters the customary sailing lines and channels should be followed, and those areas avoided where the irregular and sudden changes in depth indicate conditions which are associated with pinnacle rocks or coral heads. DREDGED CHANNELS. These are generally shown on the chart by two broken lines to represent the side limits of the improvement. Before completion of the project the depth given is that shown by the latest survey received from the engineer in charge. Alter completion the depth given is the one proposed to be maintained by redredging when necessary. The actual depth of a completed channel may be greater than the charted depth shortly after dredging, and less when shoaling occurs as a result of storms or other causes. These changes are of too frequent occurrence and uncertain duration to chart. Therefore when a vessel's draft approximates the charted depth of a dredged channel, the latest information should be obtained before entering. 12 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. DANGER CURVES. The curves of depth will be found useful in giving greater prominence to outlying dangers. It is a good plan to trace out with a colored pencil the curve next greater than the draft of the vessel using the chart, and regard this as a "danger curve," which is not to be crossed without precaution. Isolated soundings shoaler than surrounding depths should be avoided, as there is always the possibility that the shoalest spot may not have been found. CAUTION IN USING SMALL-SCALE CHARTS. It is obvious that dangers to navigation can not be shown with the same amount of detail on small-scale charts as on those of larger scale, therefore in approaching the land or dangerous banks regard should be had to the scale of the chart used. A small error in laying down a position means only yards on a large-scale chart, whereas on a small scale the same amount of displacement means large fractions of a mile. For the same reason, bearings to near objects should be used in preference to objects farther off, although the latter may be more prominent, as a small error in bearing or in laying it down on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer the line to be drawn. DISTORTION OF PRINTED CHARTS. The paper on which charts are printed has to be dampened. On drying, distortion takes place from the inequalities in the paper, which varies with the paper and the amount of the original dampening; but it is not sufficient to affect ordinary navigation. It must not, however, be expected that accurate series of angles taken to different points will always exactly agree, when carefully plotted upon the chart, especially if the lines to objects be long. The larger the chart the greater the amount of this distortion. BUOYS. Too much reliance should not be placed on buoys always maintaining their exact position, especially when in exposed posi- tions; it is safer, when possible, to navigate by bearings or angles to fixed objects on shore and by the use of soundings. GAS BUOYS and other unwatched lights can not be implicitly relied on; the light may be altogether extinguished, or, if intermittent, the apparatus may get out of order. LIGHTS. The distances given in the light lists and on the charts for the visibility of lights are computed for a height of 15 feet for the observer's eye. The table of distances of visibility due to height, published in the Light List, affords a means of ascertaining the effect of a greater or less height of the eye. The glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must not be confounded with the true range. Again, refraction may often cause a light to be seen farther than under ordinary circumstances. When looking for a light, the fact may be forgotten that from aloft the range of vision is increased. By noting a star immediately over the light a bearing may be afterwards obtained from the standard compass. The actual power of a light should be considered when expecting to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily obscured by haze, and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. The power of a light can be estimated by its candlepower as given in the light lists and in some cases by noting how much its visibility NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 13 in clear weather falls short of the range due to the height at which it is placed. Thus a light standing 200 feet above the sea and recorded as visible only 10 miles in clear weather is manifestly of little bril- liancy, as its height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles if of suffi- cient power. FOG SIGNALS. Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Apart from the wind, large areas of silence have been found in different directions and at different distances from the origin of the sound signal, even in clear weather. Therefore too much confidence should not be felt as to hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal may require some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imperceptibly toward the land and is not observed by those at a lighthouse until it is upon them, whereas a vessel may have been in it for many hours while approaching the land. In such a case no signal may be sounded. When sound travels against the wind, it may be thrown upward; in such a case a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudi- ble on deck. The conditions for hearing a signal will vary at the same station within short intervals of time; mariners must not, there- fore, judge their distance from a fog signal by the force of the sound and must not assume that a signal is not sounding because they do not hear it. Taken together, these facts should induce the utmost caution when nearing the land or danger in fog. The lead is generally the only safe guide and should be faithfully used. SUBMAEINE BELLS have an effective range of audibility greater than signals sounded in air, and a vessel equipped with receiving apparatus can determine the approximate bearing of the signal. These signals can be heard also on vessels not equipped with receiv- ing apparatus by observers below the water line, but a bearing of the signal can not then be readily determined. TIDES. A knowledge of the tide, or vertical rise and fall of the water, is of great and direct importance whenever the depth at low water approximates to or is less than the draft of the vessel and wherever docks are constructed so as to be entered and left near the time of high water. But under all conditions such knowledge may be of indirect use, as it often enables the mariner to estimate in advance whether at a given time and place the current will be run- ning flood or ebb. In using the tables slack water should not be confounded with high or low tide nor a flood or ebb current with flood or ebb tide. In some localities the rise or fall may be at a stand while the current is at its maximum velocity. THE TIDE TABLES published by the Coast and Geodetic Survey give the predicted times and heights of high and low waters for most of the principal ports of the world and tidal differences and constants for obtaining the tides at all important ports. PLANE OF REFERENCE FOR SOUNDINGS ON CHARTS. For the Atlan- tic coast of the United States and Porto Rico the plane of refer- ence for soundings is the mean of all low waters; for the Pacific coast of the United States and Alaska, with the two exceptions noted below, and for the Hawaiian and Philippine Islands, it is the mean of the lower low waters. For Puget Sound, Wash., the plane of ref- erence is 2 feet below mean lower low water and for Wrangell Strait, Alaska, it is 3 feet below mean lower low water. 14 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. For the Atlantic coast of the Canal Zone, Panama, the -plane of reference for soundings is mean low water, and for the Pacific coast of the same it is low-water springs. For foreign charts many different planes of reference are in use, but that most frequently adopted is low-water springs. It should be remembered that whatever plane of reference is used for a chart there may be times when the tide falls below it. When the plane is mean low water or mean lower low water there will generally be as many low waters or lower low waters below those planes as above them. Also the wind may at times cause the water to fall below the plane of reference. TIDAL CURRENTS. In navigating coasts where the tidal range is considerable special caution is necessary. It should be remembered that there are indrafts into all bays and bights, although the general set of the current is parallel to the shore. The turn of the tidal current offshore is seldom coincident with the time of high and low water on the shore. At the entrance to most harbors without important tributaries or branches the current turns at or soon after the times of high and low water within. The diurnal inequality in the velocity of current will be proportionately but half as great as in the height of the tides. Hence, though the heights of the tide may be such as to cause the surface of the water to vary but little in level for 10 or 12 hours, the ebb and flow will be much more regular in occurrence. A swift current often occurs in narrow openings between two bodies of water, because the water at a given instant may be at different levels. Along most shores not seriously affected by bays, tidal rivers, etc., the current usually turns soon after high and low waters. Where there is a large tidal basin with a narrow entrance, the strength of the current in the entrance may occur near the time of high and low water, and slack water at about half tide, outside. The swiftest current in straight portions of tidal rivers is usually in the mid-channel, but in curved portions the strongest current is toward the outer edge of the curve. Counter currents and eddies may occur near the shores of straits, especially in bights and near points. TIDE KIPS AND SWIRLS occur in places where strong currents occur, caused by a change in the direction of the current, and especially over shoals or in places where the bottom is uneven. Such places should be avoided if exposed also to a heavy sea, especially with the wind opposing the current; when these conditions are at their worst the water is broken into heavy choppy seas from all directions, which board the vessel, and also make it difficult to keep control, owing to the bearing of the propeller and rudder. CURRENT ARROWS on charts show only the usual or mean direction of a tidal stream or current. It must not be assumed that the direc- tion of the current will not vary from that indicated by the arrow. In the same manner, the velocity of the current constantly varies with circumstances, and the rate given on the chart is a mean value, corresponding to an average range of tide. At some stations but few observations have been made. FIXING POSITION. The most accurate method available to the navigator of fixing a position relative to the shore is by plotting with NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 15 a protractor sextant angles between well-defined objects on the chart; this method, based on the "three-point problem" of geometry, should be in general use. In many narrow waters, also, where the objects may yet be at some distance, as in coral harbors or narrow passages among mud banks, navigation by sextant and protractor is invaluable, as a true position can in general be obtained only by its means. Positions by bearings are too rough to depend upon, and a small error in either taking or plotting a bearing might under such circumstances put the ship ashore. For its successful employment it is necessary: First, that the ob- jects be well chosen; and, second, that the observer be skillful and rapid in his use of the sextant. The latter is only a matter of practice. Near objects should be used either for bearings or angles for posi- tion in preference to distant ones, although the latter may be more prominent, as a small error in the bearing or angle or in laying it on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer the line to be drawn. On the other hand, distant objects should be used for direction because less affected by a small error or change of position. The three-arm protractor consists of a graduated circle with one fixed and two movable radial arms. The zero of the graduation is at the fixed arm and by turning the movable arms each one can be set at any desired angle with reference to the fixed arm. To plot a position, the two angles observed between the three selected objects are set on the instrument, which is then moved over the chart until the three beveled edges in case of a metal instrument, or the radial lines in the case of a transparent or celluloid instru- ment, pass respectively and simultaneously through the three objects. The center of the instrument will then mark the ship's position, which may be pricked on the chart or marked with a pencil point through the center hole. The tracing-paper protractor, consisting of a graduated circle printed on tracing paper, can be used as a substitute for the brass or celluloid instrument. The paper protractor also permits the laying down for simultaneous trial of a number of angles in cases of fixing important positions. Plain tracing paper may also be used if there are any suitable means of laying off the angles. The value of a determination depends greatly on the relative posi- tions of the objects observed. If the position sought lies on the circle passing through the three objects it will be indeterminate, as it will plot afl around the circle. An approach to this condition, which is called a revolver, must be avoided. In case of doubt select from the chart three objects nearly in a straight line, or with the middle object nearest the observer. Near objects are better than distant ones, and, in general, up to 90 the larger the angles the better, remembering always that large as well as small angles may plot on or near the circle and hence be worthless. If the objects are well situated, even very small angles will give for navigating purposes a fair position, when that obtained by bearings of the same objects would be of little value. Accuracy requires that the two angles be simultaneous. If under way and there is but one observer, the angle that changes less rapidly 16 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. may be observed both before and after the other angle and the proper value obtained by interpolation. A single angle and a range give in general an excellent fix, easily obtained and plotted. THE COMPASS. It is not intended that the use of the compass to fix the position should be given up; there are many circumstances in which it may be usefully employed, but errors more readily creep into a position so fixed. Where accuracy of position is desired, angles should invariably be used, such as the fixing of a rock or shoal, or of additions to a chart, as fresh soundings or new build- ings. In such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the better; but five objects is a good number, as the four angles thus obtained prevent any errors. When only two objects are visible, a sextant angle can be used to advantage with the compass bearings and a better fix obtained than by two bearings alone. DOUBLING THE ANGLE ON THE Bow. The method of fixing by doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of it, the so-called "bow and beam bearing," the distance from the object at the latter position being the distance run between the times of taking the two bearings, gives the maximum of accuracy, and is an excellent fix for a departure, but does not insure safety, as the object observed and any dangers off it are abeam before the position is obtained. By taking the bearings at two points and four points on the bow, a fair position is obtained before the object is passed, the distance of the latter at the second position being, as before, equal to the distance run in the interval, allowing for current. Taking afterwards the beam bearing gives, with slight additional trouble, the distance of the object when abeam : such beam bearings and distances, with the times, should be continuously recorded as fresh departures, the importance of which will be appreciated in cases of being suddenly shut in by fog. A graphic solution of the problem for any two bearings of the same object is frequently used. The two bearings are drawn on the chart, and the course is then drawn by means of the parallel rulers so that the distance measured from the chart between the lines is equal to the distance made good by tiie vessel between the times of taking the bearings. DANGER ANGLE. The utility of the danger angle in passing out- lying rocks or dangers should not be forgotten. In employing the horizontal danger angle, however, charts compiled from early Rus- sian and Spanish sources, referred to in a preceding paragraph, should not be used. SOUNDINGS. In thick weather, when near, or approaching the land or danger, soundings should be taken continuously and at regular intervals, and, with the character of the bottom, systematically recorded. By marking the soundings on tracing paper, according to the scale of the chart, along a line representing the track of the ship, and then moving the paper over the chart parallel with the course until the observed soundings agree with those of the chart, the ship's position will in general be quite well determined. SUMNER'S METHOD. Among astronomical methods of fixing a ship's position the great utility of Sumner's method should be well NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 17 understood, and this method should be in constant use. The Sumner line that is, the line drawn through the two positions obtained by working the chronometer observation for longitude with two assumed latitudes, or by drawing through the position obtained with one lati- tude a line at right angles to the bearing of the body as obtained from the azimuth tables gives at times invaluable information, as the ship must be somewhere on that line, provided the chronometer is correct. If directed toward the coast, it marks the bearing of a defi- nite point; if parallel with the coast, the distance of the latter is shown. Thus the direction of the line may often be usefully taken as a course. A sounding at the same time with the observation may often give an approximate position on the line. A very accurate position can be obtained by observing two or more stars at morning or evening twilight, at which time the horizon is well defined. The Sumner lines thus obtained will, if the bearings of the stars differ three points or more, give an excellent result. A star or planet at twilight and the sun afterwards or -before may be combined; also two observations of the sun with sufficient interval to admit of a consid- erable change of bearing. In these cases one of the lines must be moved for the run of the ship. The moon is often visible during the day and in combination with the sun gives an excellent fix. CHANGE OF VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. The gradual change in the variation must not be forgotten in laying down positions by bearings on charts. The magnetic compasses placed on the charts for the purpose of facilitating plotting become in time slightly in error, and in some cases, such as with small scales, or when the lines are long, the displacement of position from neglect of this change may be of importance. The compasses are reengraved for every new edi- tion if the error is appreciable. Means for determining the amount of this error are provided by printing the date of constructing the com- pass and the annual change in variation near its edge. The change in the magnetic variation in passing along some parts of the coast of the United States is so rapid as to materially affect the course of a vessel unless given constant attention. This is par- ticularly the case in New England and parts of Alaska, where the lines of equal magnetic variation are close together and show rapid changes in magnetic variation from place to place, as indicated by the large differences in variation given on neighboring compass roses. LOCAL MAGNETIC DISTURBANCE. The term "local magnetic dis- turbance" or "local attraction" has reference only to the effects on the compass of magnetic masses external to the ship. Observation shows that such disturbance of the compass in a ship afloat is expe- rienced only in a few places. Magnetic laws do not permit of the supposition that it is the visible land which causes such disturbance, because the effect of a magnetic force diminishes in such rapid proportion as the distance from it increases that it would require a local center of magnetic force of an amount absolutely unknown to affect a compass half a mile distant. Such deflections of the compass are due to magnetic minerals in the bed of the sea under the ship, and when the water is shallow and the force strong the compass may be temporarily deflected when passing over such a spot, but the area of disturbance will be small, unless there are many cen ters near together. 31056 16 2 18 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. The law which has hitherto been found to hold good as regards local magnetic disturbances is that north of the magnetic equator the north end of the compass needle is attracted toward any center of disturbance; south of the magnetic equator it is repelled. It is very desirable that whenever an area ol local magnetic dis- turbance is noted the position should be fixed and the facts reported as far as they can be ascertained. USE or OIL FOR MODIFYING THE EFFECT OF BREAKING WAVES. Many experiences of late years have shown that the utility of oil for this purpose is undoubted and the application simple. The following may serve for the guidance of seamen, whose atten- tion is called to the fact that a very small quantity of oil skillfully applied may prevent much damage both to ships (especially of the smaller classes) and to boats, by modifying the action of breaking seas. The principal facts as to the use of oil are as follows: 1. On free waves i. e., waves in deep water the effect is greatest. 2. In a surf, or waves breaking on a bar, where a mass of liquid is in actual motion in shallow water, the effect of the oil is uncertain, as nothing can prevent the larger waves from breaking under such circumstances, but even here it is of some service. 3. The heaviest and thickest oils are most effectual. Kefined kerosene is of little use; crude petroleum is serviceable when nothing else is obtainable; but all animal and vegetable oils, such as waste oil from the engines, have great effect. 4. A small quantity of oil suffices, if applied in such a manner as to spread to windward. 5. It is useful in a ship or boat, either when running or lying-to or in wearing. 6. No experiences are related of its use when hoisting a boat at sea or in a seaway, but it is highly probable that much time would be saved and injury to the boat avoided by its use on such occasions. 7. In cold water the oil, being thickened by the lower temperature and not being able to spread freely, will have its effect much reduced. This will vary with the character of oil used. 8. For a ship at sea the best method of application appears to be to hang over the side, in such a manner as to be in the water, small canvas bags, capable of holding from 1 to 2 gallons of oil, the bags being pricked with a sail needle to facilitate leakage of the oil. The ou is also frequently distributed from canvas bags or oakum inserted in the closet bowls. The positions of these bags should vary with the circumstances. Running before the wind, they should be hung on either bow e. g., from the cathead and allowed to tow in the water. With the wind on the quarter the effect seems to be less than in any other position, as the oil goes astern while the waves come up on the quarter. Lying-to, the weather bow and another position farther aft seem the best places from which to hang the bags, using sufficient line to permit them to draw to windward while the ship drifts. 9. Crossing a bar with a flood tide, to pour oil overboard and allow it to float in ahead of the boat, which would follow with a bag towing astern, would appear to be the best plan. As before remarked, under these circumstances the effect can not be so much trusted. NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 19 On a bar, with the ebb tide running, it would seem to be useless to try oil for the purpose of entering. 10. For boarding a wreck, it is recommended to pour oil overboard to windward of her before going alongside. The effect in this case must greatly depend upon the set of the current and the circum- stances of the depth of water. 1 ] . For a boat riding in bad weather from a sea anchor, it is recom- mended to fasten the bag to an endless line rove through a block on the sea anchor, by which means the oil can be diffused well ahead of the boat and the bag readily hauled on board for refilling, if necessary. COAST WATERS, YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN. GENERAL INFORMATION. The information contained in this volume relates to the coast waters from Yakutat Bay to the Arctic Ocean, including the various groups of islands along the south side of the Alaska Peninsula, the Aleutian Islands, Prince William Sound, Cook Inlet, Bristol Bay, and the various other indentations. Westward to Cook Inlet the characteristic formation is rocky; the waters in general are deep, but there are also great variations in depth. The visible topographic features, characterized by moun- tainous areas, numerous rugged islands, rocks and reefs, are undoubt- edly duplicated beneath the surface of the water. A safe rule to follow in the navigation of these waters is to avoid all areas where the chart shows great irregularities in depth. In Cook Inlet the characteristic formation is the result of glacial action. At low water the shores will be seen strewn with bowlders, some of them of great size, and the soundings indicate that these bowlders also occur in the deeper waters, particularly in areas of hard bottom, where they have not been buried by the subsequent deposit of silt. Westward from Cook Inlet, along the south side of the peninsula, throughout the offlying islands, and throughout the entire extent of the Aleutian Islands, the rocky formation above described is again found. Bering Sea is characterized in general by shoal waters, with exten- sive sand or mud flats along the shores, particularly in the approaches to the various bays and rivers. There is little rocky formation, and its occurrence, where found, is limited in area. Weather. The weather in general is misty or rainy, with fog and frequent blows. It will usually be found that an on-shore wind brings misty weather, and an offshore wind, clearing weather. It will also be found that the weather noticeably improves as one proceeds toward the head of the various inlets. Thus, at the head of Prince William Sound, Cook Inlet, Nushagak Bay, or Kuskokwim Bay, bright clear weather will occur when there is wind and rain at the entrances. The weather is discussed in greater detail under the heading of the various localities. Harbors and ports. From Yakutat Bay to Cape St. Elias the coast is open and unbroken, affording no shelter. From this point west- ward to the end of the Aleutian Islands, there are numerous good harbors where vessels may find shelter from any weather. In Bering Sea, northward and eastward of Unimak Pass, the harbors are few and are characterized by shoals in the approaches, so that in the absence of detailed surveys local knowledge is necessary to enter. The principal ports are Cordova and Yaldez in Prince William Sound, Seward in Resurrection Bay, Anchorage at the head of Cook 20 YAKUT AT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN. 21 Inlet, Kodiak on Kodiak Island, and St. Michael in Bering Sea. At each of these places there are blacksmith and machine shops where repairs to machinery may be made, and carpenters available for woodwork above water: Similar facilities are available at Nome, but the anchorage is in an open roadstead. There are no dry docks or marine railways, but the great range of uide makes it an easy matter to choose a spot at low water for beach- ing a vessel at high water where she will be high and dry at low tide. At any of the canneries there are facilities for making minor repairs to machinery. Ice will seldom be encountered south of Unimak Pass. It occurs locally where discharged from glaciers, and in winter is formed at the head of the various inlets, but never gets far from its source. Its occurrence, and also the ice in Bering Sea, are discussed in detail under the headings of the various localities. Kelp grows on nearly every danger having a rocky bottom, and will be seen on the surface of the wat^r during the summer and autumn months; during the winter and spring it is not always to be seen, especially where it is exposed to a heavy sea. Kelp should always be considered a sign of clanger, and no vessel should pass through it unless the spot has been carefully sounded. There are, however, many rocks not marked by it; a heavy sea will occasionally tear the kelp away from rocks, and a moderate current will ride it under water so that it will not be seen. It is well to note that dead, detached kelp floats on the water in masses, while live kelp attached to rocks streams away level with the surface. Pilotage is not compulsory for Alaska except as provided in the United States laws governing the Steamboat-Inspection Service. Vessels making canneries, mines, and other settlements in unsurveyed areas can usually obtain the services of some one with local knowledge, although not a licensed pilot. Supplies. Vessels usually obtain their supply of provisions and ship-chandler's stores at California, Washington, and British Columbia ports. The principal towns and settlements in western Alaska can furnish provisions and a limited supply of ship-chandler's stores. Nearly all the canneries and mining settlements carry a limited supply of provisions for sale. (For supplies see also the different headings.) Fuel oil is usually obtained from the larger vessels which use it as fuel. Coal can be obtained at Cordova, Kodiak, and Unalaska. It may at times be obtained at other places, but such supply should not be counted on without previous arrangement. Naval radio stations are operated at Cordova (Point Whitshed), Kodiak, Unalaska, and St. Paul Island. There is a station at Nome maintained by the United States Army, and many of the canneries are equipped with radio outfits which are in operation during the season. TIDES. Along the outer coast of Alaska between Yakutat Bay and the western end of Alaska Peninsula the tide is nearly simultaneous, high water occurring near the time of the transit of the moon. Between Yakutat Bay and Cape Whitshed mean high water rises from 9 to 10 feet above the plane of reference. Extreme variations 22 TIDES. from 4 feet below to 15 feet above the datum may occasionally be expected. Throughout Prince William Sound the tide is practically the same in regard both to time and to height. High water occurs near the time of the transit of the moon, and the mean height of high water is about 11 feet above the plane of reference. Extreme variations from 4 feet below to 16 feet above the datum may sometimes occur. In Resurrection Bay the rise of tide is about) 1 foot less than in Prince William Sound. In passing up Cook Inlet the time and height of the tide changes very rapidly. At Fire Island the tide is about five hours later than at Port Chatham. At Anchorage in Knik Arm it is about one-half hour later, and at Sunrise in Turnagain Arm about one hour later than at Fire Island. The height of mean high water above the plane of reference varies from about 13 feet in the vicinity of Port Chatham tg 30 feet in Knik Arm and 33 feet in the eastern part of Turnagain Arm. Variations from 6 feet below the plane of reference to 6 feet above mean high water may occasionally occur. The mean range of tide on the west side of Cook Inlet is less than it is on the east coast, the difference being as great as 3 feet at the widest part of the inlet. On the eastern side of Kodiak Island the height of mean high water is about 9 feet above the plane of reference, but in Shelikof Strait the mean high w^ater rises from 13 to 14 feet above the datum. Extreme variations from 4 feet below to 1 4 feet above the datum on the eastern side and from 4 feet below to 18 feet above the datum on the western side of the island will occasionally occur. In Shelikof Strait the tide will occur about 15 minutes later than on the eastern side of the island. From Kodiak Island to the westward the range of tide diminishes rapidly. In the vicinity of the Shumagin and Sannak Islands the mean high water is approximately 6 feet above the plane of reference. There is, however, very little difference in the time of the tide until the western end of the Alaska Peninsula is reached. Around the Aleutian Islands the tide is very irregular and at times becomes diurnal. The mean high-water interval varies from zero to four hours, and the mean rise of tide from 2 to 6 feet above the datum. At the Pribilof Islands, St. Matthew Island, and St. Lawrence Island, in the Bering Sea, the tide is small and irregular > the mean rise being less than 4 feet above the datum. In Bristol Bay the range of tide increases very rapidly in passing toward the head of the bay. At Port Moller the mean rise is 9}| feel above the datum, and at Clark Point, Nushagak Bay, it is 18 feet. At the latter place the tide occurs approximately five hours later than at Port Moller. In Kuskokwim Bay the height of mean high water above the plane of reference increases from 7 feet at Goodnews Bay entrance to 10J^ feet off Warehouse Creek and then diminishes to 2^ feet at Bethel. At Apokak the tide occurs nearly five hours later than at Goodnews Bay entrance, and at Bethel it is about five and one-half hours later than at Apokak. The range of tide is greater on the east side than it is on the west side of the bay, the difference being about 1 foot in the vicinity of Apokak. YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN'. 23 In Norton Sound the tide is generally small and irregular and during a large part of the time diurnal. The mean rise and fall is about 3 feet. In the vicinity of Bering Strait the tide is too small to be of prac- tical importance. Along the Bering Sea coast of Alaska extreme tides, varying from 3 feet below the plane of reference to 6 feet above mean high water, may occur occasionally. For more detailed information concerning the tides in Alaska, the General or Pacific Coast Tide Tables for the current year should be consulted. These are published annually in advance by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, and may be obtained from the office or from any of the agencies of this Bureau on receipt of the price, which is 50 cents for the general tables and 10 cents for the Pacific Coast reprint. CURRENTS. A prevailing current sets northward and westward along the coast of British Columbia and Alaska. The distance it extends offshore is not known, but it is believed to be strongest near the coast and inside of the 100-fathom curve. The estimated velocity of the current is to 1^ knots, and is greatly affected by strong winds. In winter, with strong northerly and westerly winds prevailing in the Gulf of Alaska, it is probable that the current is stopped, and there may be a set in the reverse direction. No systematic observations have been made, but the following sample reports indicate what may be expected: Capt. J. A. O'Brien, of the steamer Northwestern, reports that from February to May, 1911, during six round trips between Cape Flattery and Cape St. Elias his log showed an average of 977 miles northbound and 1,104 miles southbound, an average current of 63.5 miles for the run of about 1,040 miles. On each of the six voyages he found a strong set toward the coast between Cape Cook, Vancouver Island, and Cape St. James, Queen Charlotte Islands, and between the northwest end of Queen Charlotte Islands and. Sitka. Between Cape Flattery and Cape Cook an average of over 40 voyages indicated a northwesterly current with a velocity of 1.5 knots in winter and about nil in summer. On May 1, 1910, on a run from Ocean Cape to Cape St. Elias with light easterly winds, a vessel with a speed of 8.1 miles by log was set in 13.5 hours about 28.5 miles in a 291 true (W % S mag.) direction by the coast current, the average velocity of which was 2.1 knots. Land was made on the eastern side of Kayak Island 7 miles northward of the projected course. This report shows the necessity for using caution in approaching Cape St. Elias from southeastward, as 'the prevailing northwesterly current will cause the vessel to be ahead of her reckoning. Surveying parties report a constant set southwestward along the coast of Hinchinbrook Island. A constant set southwestward is reported along the east coast of Montague Island and south coast of Kenai Peninsula. A whaleboat lost off Wooded Islands was washed ashore on Cape Douglas and a spar lost off Point Gore was found on the northwest side of Sitkinak 24 CURRENTS. Island. The velocity is not known, but has been reported to be 1 knot or more at times. Currents of the Alaska Peninsula Westward of Kodiak. It seems clear from all reports that the Japan current does not touch the shores of the Alaska Peninsula; and there is doubt if it touches even the south- ernmost of Che Aleutian Islands. It is even disputed that this current is found at all this far eastward ; no such warm water can be found as that of the Gulf Stream, but a fairly definite stream of slightly warmer water can generally be found. This stream is well offshore and far out of sight of land; the current phenomena met with in the vicinity of the coast have no connection with it. It is generally agreed that there is a continual current of con- siderable strength following the coast all the way from Shelikof Strait to Unalaska Island. It has been called a warm current originating in the Gulf of Alaska, and it doubtless assists in causing the southern side of the peninsula to be warmer than Bering Sea. It is well known that all the islands off this coast have a milder climate than the mainland; the inhabitants choose the islands and almost the entire population is found on them in preference to the mainland shore. This current searches out all the passages, large and small, between and around the many islands, and in some of them it becomes strong enough to be important. The tide has little effect upon it, for the tide sets generally on and offshore, while this current sets along the coast. For this reason a vessel generally finds it setting her ahead or back along the course and not to one side. An approaching northeast storm gives warning by strengthening this current; in many places the current will indicate northeast weather a day before the barometer falls. It may be that on some occasions this current turns in the other direction on its offshore side, near the 100-fathom curve, but this is not frequent, and there are no reports that it turns in the inshore part near the land. It has been supposed that the strong currents of Unimak, Akutan, and Unalga Passes are due to this current deflected into the passes and strengthened by a rising tide. It is reported by all that the strongest currents are found entering Bering Sea in these passes and that the currents flow- ing out are always weaker. In the Aleutian Island passages, as far as Attu, reports agree that the currents almost always flow into Bering Sea. There are many reports of strong currents in all the passages in this direction, and almost none in the opposite direction. These currents are not to be regarded as branches of the Japan stream, for the water temperatures do not show a warm current; but it is agreed that they carry much small animal and plant life to the shores of the islands and into Bering Sea. Southward of the Aleutian Islands there is often a current toward them and toward all the passes; but farther offshore, well out of sight of land, the Japan stream is found setting eastward. Along the northern side of the islands, on a line from Unalaska to Attu, it is agreed that the current sets eastward, and is not influenced by tide. But in all this region and in Bering Sea the normal currents may be disturbed by bad weather, and will then set with the wind or toward a low barometer; an abnormal current may often be a valuable storm warning. In all the Aleutian Islands the navigator must heed the currents carefully; a vessel is in more danger there from that cause than from any other, except the lack of surveys. CURRENTS. 25 The currents of Bristol Bay are usually considered as partly tidal. Here, also, a northeast storm disguises all other effects and causes a strong current to sweep out of the bay. In normal weather the tidal currents set on and onshore and more or less in and out of the bay, and become more important as the water shoals; the local effects in places are pronounced. Beside the tidal currents, it is considered that Bristol Bay forms the eastern side of a permanent eddy which enters past Cape Newenham flowing eastwara and discharges along the north shore of Unimak Island flowing westward. On the Bering Sea side of Unimak Pass it is generally found that there is a current flowing northwest. DIRECTIONS, YAKUTAT BAY TO KODIAK. From Cape St. Elias to the head of Cook Inlet and southward to Chiniak Bay, Cape Karluk, and Takli Island, and from Cape Ikti to Unalaska, the principal points jdong the coast are determined by triangulation, and accurate courses and distances for coasting along those sections can be taken from charts 8502 and 8802 (1915 edi- tion). Some of the bays and arms are not surveyed, and their delineation on the chart is taken from the sketches of the early navigators adjusted to known points determined by later surveys. Vessels approaching Prince William Sound from southeastward generally make Cape St. Elias and pass 2 miles or more southward of Southeast Rock. On page 30 bearings and distances are given from Southeast Rock to the principal coast points of Southeast Alaska. A current, constant so far as known, sets northwestward and westward along the coast of Alaska. This current is increased by southeast winds and decreased by northwest winds, but its esti- mated velocity under ordinary conditions is about % knot. This should be kept in mind, especially when approaching Cape St. Elias from southeastward, as a vessel will generally overrun her log when bound westward. (See also the remarks on currents preceding.) Cape St. Elias to Cape Hinchinbrook. From a position 2 miles southward of Southeast Rock a 295 true (W J^.S mag.) course made good for 67 miles will lead to a position lj miles southward of Cape Hinchinbrook. An examination of the logs of several courses between Cape St. Elias and Cape Hinchinbrook indicates that the currents are in- fluenced by the tides, being stronger with the larger tides, and that the current on the ebb has frequently, but not always, caused a southerly set, and the current on the flood a northerly set. On some occasions when the range of the tides was small no marked set of current was noted. Results seem to point to a stronger cur- rent toward Cape St. Elias than Cape Hinchinbrook. Surveying parties report a constant set southwestward along the coast of Hinchinbrook Island, and the probability of a constant westerly set from Cape St. Elias to Cape Hinchinbrook should be kept in mind. Strong tidal currents were noticed across the reef at Cape St. Elias. At Middleton Island the tidal currents have a velocity of 2 to 3 knots, setting northward on the flood and southward on the ebb. Prince William Sound. Vessels from southeastward enter Prince William Sound through Hinchinbrook Entrance, and leave the 26 YAKUTAT BAY TO KODIAK DIRECTIONS. sound through Ellington Passage when bound southwestward. The principal ports of call are Cordova and Valdez. Directions for Orca Bay to Cordova are given on page 43. Directions for the sound from Hinchinbrook Entrance and Latouche Passage to Valdez are given on page 50. Directions for Elrington Passage are given on page 68. Elrington Passage to Resurrection Bay. Having come from Elrington Passage to a position 3 miles 168 true (SE ^ S mag.) from "Cape Puget, steer 263 true (SW by W mag.) for 26 miles, passing 2 miles off Cape Junken. The south end of Rugged Island should be ahead, and the course and distance made good should lead to a position 1 mile 173 true (SE by S mag.) from Barwell Island off Cape Resurrection. Then follow the directions for entering Resurrection Bay from eastward. Elrington Passage to Seal Rocks. Having come from Elrington Passage to a position 3 miles 168 true (SE }/% S mag.) from Cape Puget, a 235 true (SSW j/ W mag.) course made good for 43 miles will lead to a position 3 miles 150 true (SE by E mag.) from Seal Rocks. There is little information about the currents between Cape Cleare and Seal Rocks. When out of the bight of the coast between these points a southwesterly set may be experienced. The principal flood and ebb current to and from Prince 1 William Sound westward of Montague Island is through Montague Strait. The passage between Seal Rocks and Chiswell Islands is nearly 3 miles wide and is frequently used by vessels between Resurrection Bay and the coast southwestward. In thick weather or at night, and also when vessels are standing along the coast and not entering Resurrection Bay, it is better to pass outside of Seal Rocks. Seal Rocks to East Chugach Island. From a position 3 miles 150 true (SE by E mag.) from Seal Rocks, make good a 245 true (SW Yi S mag.) course for 26 miles to a position 3^2 miles 155 true (SE Yz E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island; Pye Island Reef should then bear 296 true (W mag.) distant 2^ miles. Or vessels from Resurrection Bay going inside Seal Rocks, pass \y% to 2 miles southeastward of the easterly Chiswell Island and make good a 236 true (SSW Y% W mag.) course for 30 miles, passing 1 to 1^ miles northwestward of Seal Rocks and to a position 3^ miles 155 true (SE y 2 E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island. From a position 3^2 miles 155 true (SE ^ E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island, make good a 246 true (SW % S mag.) course for 35 ^ miles, passing 2 miles off Point Gore, 1% miles off the sunken rock nearly midway between Point Gore and East Chu- gach Island, and to a position with the southeast point of East Chugach Island bearing on the starboard beam, 336 true (NW % W mag.) distant 3 miles. Under ordinary conditions the current may be expected to set southwestward along the coast, but its rate is not known. It is reported that the flood current sets strongly southwestward toward Cook Inlet, while the ebb current is almost negligible. When cross- ing the entrances to the larger bays, the tidal current setting to or from them will be noticed. YAKUTAT BAY TO KODIAK DIRECTIONS. 27 In 1908 a breaker in a heavy sea was reported about 9 miles 177 true (SSE J/ E mag.) from the southeast point of East Chugach Island. East Chugach Island to entrance of Cook Inlet. The following is the usual route followed by large vessels. The smaller vessels, espe- cially with local knowledge, frequently go through the passage inside Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. Directions for this passage are given on page 78. From a position 3 miles 156 true (SE % E mag.) from the south- east point of East Chugach Island, make good a 269 4rue (SW by W % W mag.) course for 15 miles, passing 2 miles off the southeast bare rock near Pearl Island, the same distance southward of Dora Reef, and to a position with Cape Elizabeth bearing on the starboard beam 359 true (NNW M W mag.), distant 5J^ miles. Then follow the directions for Cook Inlet. The tidal currents in the entrance of Cook Inlet have great velocity, especially among and around Chugach and Barren Islands and off the north end of Shuyak Island. " With the large tides, rips dangerous to small craft occur in the channels among the islands and in the wake of many projecting points. With an ebb current of the large tides and easterly winds, a very heavy sea and tide rips will be found in mid-channel on either side of Barren Islands. From Pearl Island nearly to Seldovia and southward in the entrance of Cook Inlet the tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 3 to 5 knots at strength, and care will be required to make courses good. Cook Inlet to Kodiak. The usual route is through Marmot Strait. With heavy easterly weather vessels sometimes go down Shelikof Strait and pass eastward through Kupreanof Strait. From a position 1J/2 miles westward of Flat Island steer 185 true (S by E % E mag.) for 24 miles to a midchannel position between the northeast end of Ushagat Island and the southwest end of West Amatuli Island. Then steer 170 true (SE by S mag.) for 36 miles to a position \Y miles off a point 1V miles southeastward of Tonki Cape. Then steer 180 true (SSE y% E mag.) for about 4Vo miles to a position about 1J/4 miles off a prominent point on the western shore; the northern end of Marmot Island should then bear about 80 true (NEbyEmag.). Then steer 203 true (S l /% E mag.) giving the western shore of Marmot Strait a berth of about 1 mile; the distance to Pillar Cape abeam is 8^2 miles. Continue the course across Marmot Bay, passing 3 miles eastward of Spruce Island and the same distance westward of Williams Reef. The eastern end of Woody ^ Island should be made ahead, and the course made good for 28 miles, or 19 1/2 miles from Pillar Cape abeam, will le'ad to a position J/2 mile eastward of Hutch inson Reef bell buoy. Then enter St. Paul Harbor on one of the ranges for the northern entrance. See tidal currents in the entrance of Cook Inlet above. In Marmot Strait the tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 1 to 3 knots, the flood current setting northward and the ebb southward. 28 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. YAKUTAT BAY TO CAPE ST. ELIAS. Point Manby is low and wooded for about 4 miles back to Malas- pina Glacier. Sitkagi Bluffs are about 4 miles long, and are formed by Malas- pina Glacier, which at the bluffs comes down to high-water mark, but does not discharge into the sea. From Sitkagi Bluffs the glacier recedes from the coast about 4 miles up the Yahtse and Yana Rivers, and then comes to the coast again at Icy Cape. Icy Bay has been formed by the recession of an arm ot Malaspina Glacier,- which discharges in the bay; there are large quantities of drift ice, at least during the summer. Dep'hs of 6 to 8 fathoms extend in places about 5 miles off the entrance. The entrance points are low spits, and the depths between them and in the bay are not known. The west side of Icy Bay appears to be shallow for a distance of at least Y^ mile from shore, judging by the stranding of comparatively small bergs. Smaller ice masses are generally so packed along the shores that boats would find it difficult to make a landing, especially as the ice grinds together when moved by the ocean swell which enters the bay. From Icy Bay to Cape Suckling the beach is remarkably even, with no irregularities except Umbrella Reef and Yakataga Reef. There are numerous small streams, the larger ones with lagoons and shallow bars at the entrance. The streams are dangerous to cross because of quicksand in places in their shifting channels. The coast is low and wooded and backed by ice fields and glaciers. Umbrella Reef, 13 miles east of Yakataga Reef, is a narrow ledge y% mile wide and % m ^ e l n g parallel with the shore. Little of it shows above high water. Yakataga Reef extends about ^ mile from shore at Cape Yaka- taga, and parts of it show above high water. This is the best landing place between Icy Bay and Controller Bay, but landing is possible only under exceptional conditions of a smooth sea. There are a few houses. Mount St. Elias is 18,025 feet high, and at the top is a massive pyramid with a shoulder on each side as seen from southward. Cape Suckling is low and wooded. Lying 2 miles northwestward of the cape and 1 mile inland is the end of a prominent mountain ridge which extends about 8 miles in a northeasterly direction, with elevations of 1,500 to 2,500 feet. Three bluffs about 100 feet high lie 1J^ to 2% miles westward of Cape Suckling. From the eastern bluff a sunken reef extends y% mile southwestward to three rocks, close together and bare at low water. Southwest Breaker is on a rock bare at low water, and lies 2 miles 212 true (S J4 W mag.) from the western bluff mentioned in the preceding paragraph, and 3% miles 260 true (SW }^ W mag.) from Cape Suckling. Okalee Spit, forming the south side of Controller Bay, is low, bare sand dunes, 7 miles long in an east and west (true) direction. The entrance to Controller Bay between the north end of Kayak Island and Okalee Spit is of little use except for small craft or very small vessels that can cross the flats eastward of Wingham Island. YAKUTAT BAY TO CAPE ST. ELIAS. 29 Two prominent rocks about 75 feet high lie outside the entrance, miles northeastward of Lemesurier Point and 1J4 miles south- ward of Okalee Spit. They are connected by ledges bare at low water, which also extend about 300 yards eastward and westward from them. The group is prolonged by shoals, which shelve off to 18 feet in a distance of % mile 299 true (W mag.) from the western rock and to 16 feet a little over H mile 82 true (NE % E mag.) from the eastern rock. From the shoal surrounding the rocks a rocky bar with 17 to 19 feet over it extends 1)4 miles eastward on the range of the two rocks, and then with 19 to 21 feet over it curves northeastward and joins the shoal with 16 to 18 feet over it that extends about 1 J4 miles from Okalee Spit. This bar is open to the sea from eastward and south- ward. The channel to this entrance of Controller Bay is over this bar with a least depth of 17 to 19 feet and then passes between Okalee Spit and the two rocks. From Lemesurier Point (northeast end of Kayak Island) foul ground with 13 feet over its outer half extends nearly to the shoal surround- ing the two high rocks. There is little depth near Lemesurier Point, and it shelves off to 10 feet in a distance of y% mile toward the two rocks. From northward of the two high rocks the channel has depths of 5 to 7 fathoms until about 1 mile inside the north end of Kayak Island. It then leads between flats to Kayak Entrance with a least width of y mile and depth of 18 feet. The best depth that can be carried across the flats in Controller Bay eastward of Wingham Island is 6 feet at low water. Kayak Island is 17 J^ miles long, has peaks 1,200 to 1,400 feet high, and slopes gradually to its northern part, which is low and wooded. Cape St. Elias, the south end of Kayak Island, is an important and unmistakable landmark. It is a precipitous, sharp, rocky ridge, about 1 mile long and 1,665 feet high, with a low, wooded neck between it and the high parts of the island farther north. About % mile off the cape is the remarkable Pinnacle Rock, 494 feet high. A light is maintained on Pinnacle Rock pending the completion of a lighthouse on the cape. Boats can generally land on the south side of Cape St. Elias just eastward of a small point which extends toward Pinnacle Rock. The better approach is from westward, keeping close to the island to clear a ledge which extends J4 mile northwestward from Pinnacle Rock. The eastern coast of Kayak Island is strewn with bowlders and land- ing is impracticable. Rocky shoals with 11 feet over them lie 1% miles 172 true (SE % S mag.) from Lemesurier Point. Lying 3J4 miles southward of the point and 1 mile offshore is a reef ^ mile long. Its northern end is a rock 10 feet high, and its south end is bare at half tide. For a distance of 6 miles northward of Cape St. Elias bowlders bare at low water and breakers extend % mile ff the eastern coast of the island. Breakers extend 2 miles southeastward of Cape St. Elias to South- east Rock, which is awash, the breakers extending % mile southwest- ward of the line joining them. There is a depth of 20 fathoms about ^8 mile outside these breakers. A ridge with 10 to 15 fathoms over it, which has not been closely developed, extends 1 y^ miles southwest- ward from Southeast Rock. The 50-fathom curve lies about 7 miles 30 YAKUTAT BAY TO CAPE ST. ELIAS. southwestward and westward of Southeast Rock, but is only y^ mile southeastward of it. The tidal currents have considerable velocity across the reef. Eastward of this reef another reef on which the sea breaks extends l}/2 miles from Kayak Island, the end of the reef lying about 1% miles northward from Southeast Rock. The following are computed bearings and distances from Southeast Rock: Entrance to Monti Bay, Yakutat, 94]^ true (NE by E % E mag.), 145 miles. Cape Spencer, 111 true (E % N mag.), 263 miles. Klokachef Point, Salisbury Sound, 117J true (E J^ N Northerly mag.), 307 miles. Cape Edgecumbe, 121 true (E ^ S mag.), 321 miles. Cape Ommaney, 124 true (E % S mag.), 383 miles. Summit of Forrester Island, 130 true (E by S easterly mag.), 467 miles. Cape Hinchinbrook, 295 true (W % S southerly mag.), 67 miles. Sea Ranger Reef is two shoals lying off a point on the western coast of Kayak Island 3M miles northward of Cape St. Elias. The inner one lies J^ to 1 ^ miles from shore, has 11 feet over it, is % mile long, and the sea often breaks on it. The outer shoal is small, lies 1^ miles from shore, has a least depth of 24 feet, and there is seldom a break on it. Tide rips occur around it at times. The tidal currents on the western side of Kayak Island set north- ward on the flood and southward on the ebb, with an estimated velocity at strength of y^ to % mile. From the high bluff point on Kayak Island 3^ miles south of Wingham Island a shoal with 13 feet near its end extends % mile northward; and rocky patches on which the least depths found are 12 to 15 feet extend to Wingham Island. Anchorage can be made by small craft in the bight northward of the point, % to 1 }/% miles from the point and ^ to 1 mile from shore, in 4 to 5 fathoms, bottom soft in places, with shelter from easterly and southeasterly winds. Vessels should anchor farther out in not less than 10 fathoms, with the south- oast end of Wingham Island bearing about 48 true (N by E % E mag.). CONTROLLER BAY is formed by Okalee Spit and Kayak Island on the south and Wing- ham and Kanak Islands on the west. For some distance back from the eastern shore the land is but slightly above high water, and is broken by many streams. Quicksand has been found in the channel at the mouth of Edwardes River. The bay is filled by flats between which are two principal channels, one from Kayak Entrance to the northern end of Kayak Island, and Okalee Channel. Kayak Entrance, between Kayak and Wingham Islands, is rocky and foul, there being numerous lumps on which the least depth found is about 12 feet. The channel with a depth of about 12 feet is J^ mile wide between a sand spit, largely bare at low water, extending 1 mile off the southwest side of the low wooded spit on the northwest side of Kayak Island, and a reef, partly bare at low water, extending 350 yards southeastward from the southeast end of Wingham Island. The approach is lumpy, with numerous rocky spots of 2 to 3 fathoms CONTROLLER BAY. 31 inside the 5-fathom curve. The latter is about on a line from the southwest point of Wingham Island to the high bluff point on Kayak Island 3^2 miles 201 true (S % E mag.) from it. A reef, partly bare at low water, extends 600 yards southward from the southeast point of Wingham Island. The following directions lead in the best water through Kavak Entrance, but trie entrance should be used with caution and at high water only. Steer for the end of the low wooded spit on the northwest side of Kayak Island on a 60 true (NNE % E mag.) course until the south- east tangent of Wingham Island bears 6 true (NNWmag.). Then steer 18 true (N by W mag.) and give Wingham Island a berth of 350 yards. Anchorage can be made about 250 yards northeastward of the point of Wingham Island just southeastward of Kavak, in 3 fathoms, or a short distance southeastward of this position, in depths up to 4 fathoms, bottom soft in places. Good anchorage may also be selected anywhere in the channel from tKe southeast end of Wingham Island to the northern end of Kayak Island, for which chart 8513 and the lead are the guides. There is some local chop with strong winds, but no outside swell enters the bay either through Kayak Entrance or around the northern end of Kayak Island. Kayak, on the east side of Wingham Island, % ndle horn its southeast end, is abandoned. Wingham Island is 4 miles long and wooded, and has three hills, the highest, near its northern end, haying an elevation of 832 feet. The western shore of the island is precipitous. With heavy easterly winds anchorage and shelter can be found in 16 to 18 fathoms % to J/ m ^ e from the western side of Wingham Island, abreast its middle and lowest part. Small vessels can anchor in the narrow channel close to the eastern side of Wingham Island. This channel is about 300 yards wide and extends nearly 2 miles southward from the northern end of the island, with depths of 7 to 12 fathoms for 1 mile and then shoals gradually southward. The flats on the eastern edge of the channel have depths of 7 to 11 feet and are generally steep-to. The mid- channel leads about 200 yards from the island. A depth of 6 feet at low water can be carried through close to the island to Kayak Entrance. At times the tidal currents have a velocity of 3 knots or more in places in the narrow channel eastward of Wingham Island. A shoal extends about 200 yards off the middle of the northern end of the island. Okalee Channel, between the north end of Wingham Island and Kanak Island, is % mile wide, with depths of 6 fathoms at the entrance, and these depths or more can be taken through the greater part of the channel. The channel is a secure harbor, but is little used in the absence of aids. The entrance is marked by buoys. The shoal on the southeast side of the channel 1^ miles north- eastward from the northern end of Wingham Island is bare shortly after high water, and this shoal and the one on the opposite side of the channel arc generally partly indicated by breakers, especially at low water. The shoal extending southward from Kanak Island is mostly well out at low water. Above these shoals the flats border- ing Okalee Channel are partly bare at low water only, and there is 32 CONTROLLER BAY. nothing to indicate the channel when the flats are covered. On the edges of the channel the shoaling is abrupt except at the entrance and on the southeast side where it changes direction southeastward of Kanak Island. Vessels sometimes anchor in Okalee Channel about 2 miles above the northern end of Wingham Island. This part of the channel is generally easy of access in clear weather. Above this point Okalee Channel should be navigated at low water only, in the absence of aids or local knowledge, and extra care is required to keep in the channel. Chart 8513 and the lead are the guides. Kanak Island is 3^ miles long, very low and flat, and wooded in the middle. There is a large low tank at the south end of the island- An extensive shoal makes out southwcstward from the island, about 3 miles from its southeast end and 2 miles from its northwest end. The southern edge of the shoal passes about 1 mile northwest- ward from the northern end "of Wingham Island. When off the southwest side of Kanak Island, vessels should keep in over 5 fathoms (low water). The range of the north ends of Wingham and Kayak Islands, bearing 119 true (E mag.), leads clear southward of the shoal. The passage between Kanak Island and Strawberry Point is used only by boats and launches at high water. Point Hey is a projecting and prominent high, narrow point on the northwest side of Controller Bay 1 mile northward of Kanak Island. Weather. During the summer the prevailing winds are easterly with rain, and this is the direction from which the heaviest weather comes. Westerly winds are infrequent during the summer, and generally light. Fog was rare and cleared off before noon. Tides. High and low water occur 27 minutes later than at Sitka, and the rise and fall of tides is the same. The tidal currents set into Controller Bay through all the entrances on the flood and out on the ebb. In Kayak Entrance the ebb has greater velocity than the flood, and it is estimated that the greatest velocity at strength does not exceed 3 knots. Tide rips occur at times in the channel abreast the southern end of Wingham Island. The velocity of the current in the channel north of Kayak Island does not exceed 2 knots. In Okalee Channel, from observations taken, the flood current was found to attain an ordinary maximum velocity of 1.65 knots 1 hour and 45 minutes before the time of high water at Sitka, and the ebb a velocity of 1.95 knots 1 hour and 45 minutes before the time of low water at Sitka. Small tide rips occur when the wind is against the current. The tidal currents have some velocity around the north end of Wingham Island. KATALLA BAY, twenty- three miles northward from Cape St. Elias, is included between Strawberry Point on the east and Martin Islands on the west, a distance of 5 miles, and indents the coast about 2 miles to the mouth of Katalla River. The bay is a roadstead anchorage sheltered from offshore winds, but exposed to winds from southeast, south, and southwest. Strawberry Point is low and bare at the end and wooded toward the foot of the hill. There is a prominent hill on the point with a low KATALLA BAY. 33 break between it and the higher land northward. A shoal with little water over it, and on which the sea generally breaks at low water, extends nearly 1 Yi miles southward from the point. The northeastern shore of the bay from Strawberry Point to the mouth of the Katalla River is a steep sand beach. The north- western shore from Katalla to Martin Islands is foul and should be given a berth of about % mile. Palm Point is \Yi miles southwestward of Katalla. There are a number of buildings of a railroad camp just northward of the point. A bowlder reef, bare at low water, extends % mile southward from it. Martin Islands are two in number, about 60 feet high, have steep rocky sides, and lie ^ to 1 mile from shore. The northern island is joined to the shore by a flat, bare at extreme low water. There is an abandoned radio station on the northern island. Katalla is a post office on the northern side of the bay and on the western side of the mouth of Katalla River. There is a landing for lighters, which were towed over the bar except at low water. The bar at the mouth of the river has^a depth of about 3 feet at low water, and the sea generally breaks on it. The entrance, which is narrow and rocky, requires local knowledge. With a smooth sea, lighters formerly landed also in the bight on the northeast side of Palm Point. There is always some surf on the beach, and with south- easterly or southwesterly winds landing is impracticable. Goods are discharged by means of a lighter. The necessary towing is done by launches. On the east branch of Katalla River about 3 miles from Katalla there are oil works which supply local boats with oil, gasolene, and distillate. The depth in the river is ample for boats that can cross the bar. The boiler of the wreck of the Portland can be seen at a good low water. It has not been accurately located, but it is reported to lie in the vicinity of the 5-fathorn curve as shown on the chart, about 1 mile northeastward of Palm Point. Shoals make out on both sides of the river mouth to the wreck. The anchorage in the bay is from 1 Yi to 2 miles southward of Katalla in 6 to 7 Yi fathoms, with the eastern end of the town bearing be- tween 17 true (N. by W. mag.) and 355 true (NW. by N. mag.). The bottom is hard sand but the holding ground is generally good. There are no dangers if the shore be given a berth of over J4 mile, but the wreck of the Portland and the shoal extending \Yi miles southward from Strawberry Point should be kept in mind. Approaching from southeastward, vessels pass 2 miles or more south- ward of Southeast Rock and the breakers between it and Cape St. Elias. From a position 2J^ miles west-south westward of Pinnacle Rock, a 12 true (N by W Yi Wmag.) course made good for about 23 miles, will lead to the anchorage in Katalla Bay. Strangers enter- ing Katalla Bay should do so in the daytime and with clear weather. From Katalla bound westward, vessels can pass 1 to 1 Y 2 miles south- ward of Martin Islands and make good a 273 true (SW by W % W mag.) course for 61 miles to a position \Yi to 2 miles southward of Cape Hinchinbrook. This course if made good should lead in a depth of over 15 fathoms 3% to 4 miles southward of the sand islets lying 9 to 19 miles westward of Martin Islands. 31056 16 3 34 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. COPPER RIVER breaks through the mountains between Miles and Childs glaciers, above which are rapids. Below the rapids the river flows through flats about 5 miles wide in many changeable channels, varying in depth from 5 to 20 feet at high stages of the river, and not navigable. The current is swift and the effect of the tide on the current is only felt near the mouth. The entire delta is low marshy flats except for sand dunes, 50 to 150 feet high, on the islands and. banks of the main channel. From seaward the vicinity of Copper River shows as a vast, rugged moun- tain range, with numerous glaciers filling its gorges. From Point Martin to the northeast end of Hinchinbropk Island the coast is fringed by sand islets from 5 to 30 feet high, lying 4 to 5 miles from shore. Shoals extend seaward from these islets, but they have not been developed. Danger will be avoided by giving the islets a berth of about 3 miles; the depth should not be shoaled to less than 10 fathoms (low water). The space between these sand islets and the flats is largely bare at low water, and is navigable only for small craft of 3 or 4 feet draft, in places at high water only. Alaganik Slough, the westernmost branch of Copper River, is j/2 to 1 mile wide, with depths from 5 to 15 feet, depending on the stage of the tide and the river. The mean rise and fall of the tide at the mouth is about 10 feet and at Alaganik 2 to 3 feet, and the flood current is felt to the village. Eyak Eiver, 6 miles northeastward of Point Whitshed, is connected with Eyak Lake and has a swift current. At favorable stages of the tide it is navigable for small, light-draft craft to the lake. MIDDLETON ISLAND is about 7 miles long and has a greatest width of about 2 miles near its southern end. It is flat, about 120 feet high, with clay bluffs and occasional shingle or bowlder beaches, and slopes gradually to it's north end, which is a low spit. The island is moist, almost boggy, numerous ponds are formed by rains, and it is covered with grass, flowers, and berries, but there are no trees. It is frequented by wild fowl, and there is driftwood on the shores. There are large bowlders on the beaches and reefs around the island. Reefs and breakers extend possibly 2 miles eastward and 4 miles southward from the island and are reported to extend 2 or 3 miles off its north end. On the west side kelp extends Y^ to 1 ^ miles from shore. The island is not surveyed and should be approached with caution. The usual anchorage is about 1% miles off, about 320 true (WNW mag.) from a shallow bight near the middle of the west side of the island, in 12 to 13 fathoms, gravelly bottom. This anchorage is out- side the kelp, with the north end of the island bearing 52 true (NNE Y% E mag.) and the extreme southwest end 206 true (S y% E mag.). The landing is bad except with a smooth sea. The tidal currents have a velocity of 2 to 3 knots at the anchorage, setting northward on the flood and southward on the ebb. Wessels Reef, awash at low water and 2 miles long northeast and southwest, lies in latitude 59 47' N., longitude 146 12' W., or about MIDDLETON ISLAND. 35 16 miles 11 true (N by W J/2 W mag.) from the north end of Middleton Island. There is a depth of 30 fathoms or more close to the reef, and with a smooth sea no indication of it can be detected. PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. Hinchinbrook Entrance, between Montague and Hichinbrook Islands, is used by vessels entering Prince William Sound from eastward and southeastward, while Elrington Passage is used by vessels approach- ing from south westward. Hinchinbrook Entrance is about 6 miles wide, and clear with the exception of Seal Kpcks. The tidal currents in the entrance set directly in or out of the sound. In Hinchinbrook Entrance, Montague Strait, Latouche Passage, and other passages to the westward slack water occurs about the time of high water or low water within Prince William Sound, or 50 minutes before the time of tide at Kodiak; the mean velocity of the current at strength is 1 knot. The ebb current run- ning out against a large swell causes overfalls, especially in the deep water 2 or 3 miles eastward of Zaikof Point, which have been mis- taken for breakers. There are also tide rips on the broken ground around Cape Hinchinbrook. The flood entering westward of Mon- tague Island sets northeastward past Montague Point and causes rips between it and Johnstone Point. Outside the entrance along the southeast coast of Hinchinbrook Island the current sets south- westward almost constantly. Seal Rocks lie off the entrance 6 to 7 miles south-southwestward from Cape Hinchinbrook and over 6 miles from Montague Island. They are two bare rocks, 30 to 37 feet high, surrounded by low rocks. Sunken rocks extend 1 mile northeastward and a short distance southwesbward from them. The entire reef within the 10-fathom curve forms an obstruction nearly 2J/2 miles long. Hinchinbrook Island has two mountain ridges with elevations up to 2,900 feefc, and a low valley between them running through from the head of Port Etches. The tree line is about 1,000 feet above the sea, and the summits of the island are bare. There are a lew rocky islets close to the southeast side of Cape Hinchinbrook, and sunken reefs on which the sea breaks in a moderate swell lie y% mile south- eastward and southward from the cape. It should be given a berth of over % mile. Cape Hinchinbrook is marked by a lighthouse and fog signal. Northeastward of Cape Hinchinbrook the seaward face of Hinch- inbrook Island is steep, with rocky bluffs at the water, for 12 miles to an open bight with a broad sand beach on the northwest side of Hook Point. From Hook Point to Point Steele, a distance of 2 miles, the coast is a bluff about 200 feet high, with low, swampy land between it and the mountains, which lie nearly 2 miles back. The coast is clear except from Hook Point to Point Steele, where reels make out ^ mile. A boat can land in good weather on the northwest side of Hook Point and Y^ mile northward of Point Steele. A depth of 2J/2 fathoms was found 3 miles southeastward of Point Bentinck, the northeast end of Hinchinbrook Island, and breakers extend out nearly this distance in ordinary weather. 36 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. Montague Island is high and mountainous, and wooded to an ele- vation of about 1,000 feet. At its north end are three prominent points forming Zaikof and Rocky Bays, and low depressions run through from the heads of the bays to the northwest side of the island. Schooner Rock, 61 feet high, lies nearly ^ mile off Zaikof Point, the northeast end of Montague Island, and is marked by a small white house. For a distance of 20 miles southward of Zaikof Point the coast of Montague Island is unbroken and free from outlying dangers, except- ing Seal Rocks. Thence southward the coast is more irregular and should be given a good berth in the absence of a complete survey. A vessel is reported to have struck a sunken rock lying about 9 miles northeasoward of Cape Cleare and possibly as much as 2 miles offshore. The position is doubtful. Wooded Islands lie 13 to 17 miles northeastward of Cape Cleare and extend offshore about 3 miles. The largest are five in number, 60 to 130 feet high, flat-topped and wooded, with bluff sides. Rips or breakers are reported to extend 1 % miles northeastward from the northernmost island. A bank with 18 and 20 fathoms is reported to extend 10 or 12 miles south-south westward from Cape Cleare in the prolongation of Montague Island. No rocks or breakers were seen except within a mile of the shore. Tides. In Prince William Sound high and low water occur about 50 minutes earlier than at Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides is about 9J/ feet. To find the approximate height of the tide multiply the height of the corresponding tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges 1.37. Glacial ice is rarely found in the open waters of Prince William Sound. Ice is discharged by Columbia Glacier, northward of Glacier Island, and is driven into the sound by northerly winds; it may be expected, depending on the winds, from Bligh Island to Bald Head Chris Island and as far south as Storey Island. There are numerous discharging glaciers in Port Wells, the north- west arm of the sound, but the ice rarely reaches the entrance of the Eort. There is a discharging glacier at the head of Blackstone Bay, ut the ice is confined to the bay. Ice is discharged by Chenega Glacier on the southwest side of the sound, and occasionally drifts eastward as far as Point Helen and the north entrance of Latouche Passage through the passage south of Chenega Island. During very cold weather ice sometimes forms in the arms of the sound which reach well into the mountains, and is at times sufficiently heavy to impede navigation for wooden vessels. PORT ETCHES is an inlet in the southwest end of Hinchinbrook Island, about 4 miles northwestward of Cape Hinchinbrook. The port is about 7 miles long in a 56 true (NNE ^ E mag.) direction and about 1J4 miles wide. It is a secure anchorage, the best in Hinchinbrook Entrance, and is easy of access. The strongest gales are northeast and are not steady, but descend from the surrounding mountains in heavy williwaws of PORT ETCHES. 37 varied direction, and they sometimes blow hard in Port Etches when comparatively light winds prevail outside. Fresh water can con- veniently be obtained from streams in Garden Cove and on the north- west side of Constantino Harbor. The best anchorage for large vessels is in the middle abreast Garden Cove, 2 miles from the head of the port, in 12 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom. A flat extends 1J^ miles from the head, but the lead is a good guide to avoid it. The swell is quite perceptible in heavy southerly weather. Garden Cove (Mosquito Bight), on the southeast side, 2 to 2J/ miles from the head of the port, is the best anchorage for small vessels. Garden Island, wooded and having a break through it, lies in the middle of the entrance; the bight eastward of this island is shoal, and there is no safe passage northeastward of it. Point Horn, the southwest point of the cove, is the most prominent of the projecting points on the southeast shore of Port Etches. To enter Garden Cove pass 400 j}o 500 yards northward of this point and steer 93 true (NE by E % E mag.). Anchor with Point Horn in line with the southernmost of the Porpoise Rocks, and about 250 yards southeastward of Garden Island, with the break through it open, in 4 to 5 fathoms, sticky bottom. No ocean swell reaches the anchorage, but, as elsewhere in Port Etches, the williwaws are bad in easterly gales, coming both from the head of the port and the head of the cove. English Bay, on the southeast side at the entrance of the port, is a bight about % m il e wide. It may bo used as a temporary anchorage by smaU vessels, but it is exposed to the ocean swell in heavy weather and open to northerly and westerly winds. Easterly gales blow in williwaws from all directions, but do not raise much sea if anchored well in the cove. The holding ground is good. When entering give the southwest point of the cove a berth of J mile, and anchor in the middle just inside the entrance, in about 5 fathoms. The two bights on the southeast shore of Port Etches, 1% and 3^ miles northeastward of English Bay, are rocky and should be avoided. Porpoise Rocks, on the northwest side at the entrance of Port Etches, are three principal rocks about 48 feet high, with numerous small rocks between and northeastward of them. The westernmost and largest is flat on top and grass-covered, and a rock covered at high water lies 200 yards westward from it. There is deep water close to the rocks, except on their northeast side where there is foul ground extending to Point Barber at Nuchek, a distance of 1 mile, with no safe channel between. There is kelp around Porpoise Rocks and for a distance of % mile southwestward of Point Barber. In good weather steamers sometimes anchor off the shingle spit northwestward of Nuchek to land or receive passengers and freight. It is an uneasy anchorage on account of the swell. The best anchor- age is abreast the spit midway between the village and the rocky, wooded knob on the middle of the spit, with the village bearing 95 true (ENE mag.), and the southeast one of the three largest Porpoise Rocks in line with the end of Hinchinbrook Island, bearing 191 true (S by E ^ E mag.), in about 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. Nuchek is an Indian village on the southeast end of the shingle spit at the southwest end of Constantine Harbor. 38 PORT ETCHES. CONSTANTINE HARBOR is the lagoon on the northwest side of Port Etches, its entrance lying 3 miles northeastward of Porpoise Kocks. It is suitable only for small craft on account of the very narrow entrance channel, which is 50 to 100 yards wide with depths of 18 to 19 feet. The tidal currents have considerable velocity in the entrance. The best time to enter is at high water, preferably near slack water. The harbor is generally shallow, but has an area % mile long and % mile wide with depths of 3 to 4}4 fathoms, sticky bottom, but exposed to williwaws. On the northeast side of the entrance are three small, rocky, wooded islets with overhanging sides. Between them are three rocks bare at low water, and 60 yards south-southeastward from the western islet is a sunken rock, all marked by kelp at slack water. The channel is close to the islets, between them and a shoal with 9 to 10 feet over it extending 600 yards northeastward from Phipps Point. To enter Constantino Harbor pass 100 yards south westward of the western islet on a west-northwesterly course, follow the northwest shore at a distance of 125 yards, and pass through the narrow entrance in mid-channel heading for Bear Cape. Keep this course for %to% mile from the entrance and anchor about 200 yards from the southeast shore, which affords some protection in northeast gales from the strongest williwaws that come apparently from the head of Port Etches. A temporary anchorage can be made about J^ mile southeastward of the rocky islets in the entrance of Constantine Harbor, with the southeast Porpoise Kock open from the northwest shore of the port, bearing 242 true (SW by S mag.), in 10 to 12 fathoms, sticky bottom, but there is considerable swell in heavy weather. Tides. High and low water occur about 45 minutes before high and low water at Kodiak. The mean rise and fall of the tides is 9 feet. To find the height of the tide for any day at Port Etches multiply the height of the corresponding predicted tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges 1.29. ZAIKOF BAY, the easternmost of the two bays in the north end of Montague Island, is clear and affords anchorage, but is exposed to northeast winds. Anchorage can be selected with the aid of the chart along the south- east shore, from 2 miles inside Schooner Rock to the head, also on a bar with 10 to 15 fathoms which extends across the bay 2^ miles from the head. A good berth is in 7 to 12 fathoms, depending on the swinging room required, in the cove on the southeast side 2^ miles inside Schooner Kock, with Middle Point bearing 352 true (NW J4 N mag.). This anchorage is exposed to winds from north to east, and a swell makes in during southeast gales. The only dangers are a short reef marked by kelp off the point westward, and two rocks, bare at half tide and marked by kelp, close to the shore eastward. A small vessel can anchor in the cove on the southeast side Ij^j miles from the head, with shelter from northeast winds. Anchor close to the southern side of the point, about 200 yards from the short spit making out from it, in 8 to 10 fathoms. There is no swell, ZAIKOF BAY. 39 but the williwaws blow with great force over the lower land inside the point. When the wind hauls southeastward or southward the williwaws come from all directions, and it is well to shift anchorage farther from the spit. There is a small shallow lagoon at the head of the cove ; an I the bank is steep-to. ROCKY BAY has deep water and is exposed to northerly and easterly winds. A small vessel can anchor in good weather about ^ mile from the head and 400 yards from the northwest side, in 8 to 10 fathoms. Small craft can^anchor in the lagoon, on the southern side 1 mile from the head, where there is a small area with a depth of 10 feet. When entering the lagoon, care should be taken to avoid a reef, partly bare at low water, extending westward and northwestward from the north point at its entrance. Two ledges, bare at low water and marked by kelp, lie nearly J^ mile off the southern side of Rocky Bay, y% to % mile inside Middle Point. Kelp extends northeastward from them to a 3%-fathom patch lying % mile 355 true (NW by N mag.) from Middle Point. Foul ground marked by kelp extends ^ m il e ff Middle Point. A reef, the higher part bare at half tide, extends nearly J| mile northeastward from Montague Point. NORTHWEST SHORE OF HINCHINBROOK ISLAND. Bear Cape is steep and high, and is the southwest end of the northwest, mountain ridge of Hinchinbrook Island. A small cove in Hinchinbrook Island, 3 miles northward of Bear Cape, has anchorage a little southward of the middle of the entra ce in 8 to 10 fathoms, with shelter from easterly and southeasterly winds. Shelter Bay has a shallow entrance with strong currents, and can not be used even by small craft. Temporary anchorage, with shelter from offshore winds, may be had about ^ mile from shore, off the middle of the bight at the entrance of Shelter Bay, in 5 to 10 fathoms, sandy and muddy bottom. A shoal, with rocks in places, extends about % mile from the shore in the bight. A vessel has anchored in 10 fathoms, about ^ mile northwest- ward of the Seven Sisters, and found the williwaws less strong with southeast winds than at the anchorage 3 miles northward of Bear Cape. Temporary anchorage, with shelter from offshore winds, may be had southward of the sharp point, with two rocks about 30 feet high close-to, lying % mile southward of Johnstone Point. The anchorage is about J^ mile off the sand beach and southwestward of the sharp point, in about 10-fathoms, sandy bottom. Johnstone Point, the northwest end of Hinchinbrook Island, is low and wooded, with a small bluff at the water, and is marked by a light. Eastward of Johnstone Point the shore is low, and there are two shallow bays or lagoons. The easterly bay has secure anchorage for small craft. The entrance, lying 4 miles eastward of Johnstone Point, is westward of the island in its mouth, and then leads between 40 HINOHINBROOK ISLAND. two rocks. The one on the west side is bare at half tide and is at the end of a sand spit making out from the shore; it should be given a berth of about 40 yards. The.rock on the east side is bare at extreme low water. When inside the rocks, head for the cove in the southwest side of the bay, and anchor in about 3 fathoms, sticky bottom, about 250 to 300 yards from shore, and about half way between the sand spit mentioned above and the south shore of the bay. Anchorage can be selected off the shore, westward of Middle Ground Shoal, in 12 to 20 fathoms, soft bottom, with shelter from southerly and easterly winds. Middle Ground Shoal fills the opening between Hinchinbrook and Hawkins Islands and extends into,Orca Bay 3 miles. The general depths on the shoal are 2 to 6 feet, and it is a danger for vessels entering Orca Bay from southward. It is marked at its northwest end by a red bell buoy. Hawkins Island Cut-off, between Hinchinbrook and Hawkins Is- lands, is navigable only for small craft with local knowledge. It is filled with shoals, and in its eastern end are extensive flals bare at low water and largely covered at high water. There are strong tidal currents in its narrower parts. ORCA BAY is an extensive arm on the eastern shore of Prince William Sound between Johnstone Point and Knowles Head, having a length of about 30 miles in an 85 true (NE by E mag.) direction. Its prin- cipal importance is derived from the railroad terminal of Cordova on Orca Inlet at its head. Its southern side is formed by Hinchin- brook and Hawkins Islands and is clear with the exception of Middle Ground Shoal. Its north side is indented by large bays, which are of no present commercial importance. Knowles Head, the southwest end of the mountainous peninsula between Port Grayina and Fidalgo Bay, is a steep massive headland, 1,502 feet high, with a prominent yellowish landslide down its south- ern face. There is a low depression between it and Porcupine Point, and others northeastward of it running through from Snug Corner Cove and the arms of Two Moon Bay. There are numerous rocks close to shore, but there are no known dangers if it be given a berth of over J^ mile. Red Head, 4 miles east-northeastward of Knowles Head, is a high hill with a long, low, wooded neck behind it. Port Gravina has its entrance between Red Head and Gravina Point. It is not surveyed. Gravina Point, 12 miles eastward of Knowles Head, is low and wooded, and at its southern end is a bare spit with a large and a small clump of trees on it. Gravina Island, low and wooded, lies \y% miles west-northwest- ward of the point and % m il e from shore. Anchorage with shelter from northeast winds can be had about ]/2 mile from shore between the island and Gravina Point, in about 10 fathoms. Sheep Bay has its entrance between Gravina and Sheep Points, and extends northward about 7 miles. The bay has not been closely surveyed, the bottom is exceedingly broken, and vessels should pro- ceed with caution. Foul ground extends % to ^ mile from the ORCA BAY. 41 eastern shore for a distance of 2 miles northward of Sheep Point. Indifferent anchorage in 18 to 20 fathoms can be selected in the middle about 3 miles above Sheep Point and % mile below the point where the bay contracts. Proceeding with care and preferably at low water, small vessels can follow the deep channel among the islands in the upper part of the bay and select anchorage in 11 to 15 fathoms. The chart is the guide. Sheep Point is moderately low and wooded at the end, with high land back of it. A wooded islet lies M mile westward of the point, with bare rocks between, and foul ground extends J mile southward and westward from the islet. Hanks Island, small and wooded, lies ^ mile eastward of Sheep Point and j/2 mile from shore. Gatherer Rock, % mile 124 true (E y% S mag.) from Hanks Island, is a pinnacle with 13 feet over it and deep water close-to. Broken ground on which the least depth found is 8 feet extends J mile southward from Hanks Island, and is marked at its south end by a black buoy. Simpson Bay has depths of 25 to 30 fathoms, muddy bottom, through the middle of its outer part. There are two islets abreast each other, about J^ mue from the east and west shores, and nearly 1 mile inside the entrance, which are good marks for navigating this part of the bay. A rock, bare at extreme low water, lies 400 yards southward of the east point at the entrance to the inner part of the bay. Passing westward of this rock, the mid-channel is clear to the head of the bay, where there is anchorage, favoring the western shore, between the edge of the flat and the islets southward, in about 15 fathoms. The chart is a sufficient guide. The east arm of Simpson Bay is clear except near the shores. Good anchorage can be selected on either side of the islands in the upper part of the arm hi 12 to 15 fathoms. Hawkins Island is about 20 miles long and mountainous, with elevations up to 2,025 feet. Canoe Passage, dividing the island about 8 miles from its southwest end, is navigable only for boats at high water. The northwest shore southwestward of Canoe Passage is low tundra meadows with patches of trees. Northeastward of Canoe Passage the high land is nearer the northwest shore of the island; there are bluffs in places, and it is more densely wooded. With the aid of the chart, anchorage can be selected in places along the northwest shore of Hawkins Island with shelter from easterly and southerly winds. The best anchorage is J^ to ^g mue on? ^ ne spit at the south end of Cedar Bay in 9 to 12 fathoms, soft bottom. There is a round, wooded islet at the north end of this spit, and a larger wooded one J^ mile northward. Small craft, entering at high water and passing northward of the rocks awash and sunken inside the entrance, can anchor in the north angle of the lagoon inside the spit, where there is a limited area with a depth of 7 feet. Channel Islands are wooded and nearly 1 mile long, and lie on the northwest side of the bay 6 miles above Sheep Point. The channel at the islands is J^ mile wide and is called The Narrows. A rock with 12 feet over it lies % mile south-southwestward of the southwest end of Channel Islands, and is marked by a black buoy. The rock is at the north end of a ridge about % mile long in a south-south- westerly direction, with depths of 13 to 14 fathoms, except near the rock. 42 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. ORCA INLET extends in a southerly direction from the head of Ore a Bay. From North Island to Spike Island the western side of the inlet is shoal, and southward of opike Island the inlet is filled by flats. Northward of North Island it has depths of 25 to 30 fathoms, and a flat extends 1 mile from the head at its north end. Salmo Point, the northern extremity of Hawkins Island, is just ahove Channel Islands. Knot Point, the northeast end of Hawkins Island, lies 1 J^ miles south-southeastward from Salmo Point with a bay 1J^ miles long and % m ile wide between. This bay has depths of 3 to 6 fathoms, but a shoal with 9 to 12 feet over it extends across its entrance; it may be used as an anchorage by small vessels that can cross the shoal. Observation Island, % mile long, high and wooded, lies 3 / mile northeastward of Knot Point. There is good anchorage 300 to 500 yards westward of Observation Island, in 8 to 10 fathoms, but care must be observed not to foul the cable which lies about 250 yards from the west side of the island. North Island, y% mile long, low and wooded, lies 1 mile northward of Salmo Point. From Salmo Point there are three channels to Orca cannery and Cordova. The deepest channel is north of North Island, and then follows the eastern shore with a least width of 350 yards and a least depth of about 5 fathoms, and is marked by buoys. A rock bare at three- quarters ebb lies 650 yards northeastward from the north end of North Island, and is marked by a light. The shoal on the west side of the channel between North and Observation Islands has depths of 10 to 18 feet, and with care can be avoided by the use of the lead. The bight in the eastern shore eastward of North Island is filled by- a flat, largely bare at low water and steep-to, which extends J^ mile off the sawmill at the mouth of the stream in the bight; the sawmill wharf extends across the flat to the edge of the channel. The bight extending J^ mile northward from Cordova wharf is filled by a flat, and depths of 19 to 24 feet are found on and a little westward of the line from the wharf to the north point of the bight. With these exceptions the eastern shore is clear. Orca Channel, between North and Observation Islands, has a depth of about 18 feet and a width of about 300 yards between shoals with 10 to 12 feet over them. It is used by small vessels with local knowledge, but should be avoided by strangers. South Rock, bare at half tide, lies 250 yards northward from Observation Island. North Rock, covered only at high water, lies midway between Observa- tion and North Islands. Odiak Channel passes westward of Observation Island, and across the shoal 1^ miles southward of the island where the depth is 18 to 20 feet. The following directions lead through the channel in a least depth of 18 feet: Round Salmo Point at a distance of about 400 yards, steer 185 true (SSE j/ E mag.) and pass about 200 yards eastward of Knot Point. Then steer 169 true (SE 3/^ S mag.) with Knot Point astern and the red buoy lying J/ m ^ e northward of Cordova wharf a little OKCA INLET. 43 on the starboard bow. Pass eastward of the buoy and steer about 211 true (S Y 8 W mag.) for Spike Island. Orca cannery is on the eastern shore southeastward from Observa- tion Island. There is a depth of 25 feet at the end of the wharf, and water can be obtained through pipe and hose. There is good anchor- age about y m il e from the eastern shore abreast or southward of the cannery, in 7 to 9 fathoms. Cordova, the terminus of the Copper River & Northwestern Rail- road, is on the east shore of Orca Inlet eastward of Spike Island. There are stores and hotels, and provisions and supplies of all kinds can be obtained. There is communication by telephone to stations along the railroad, Katalla, and the radio station at Point Whitshed, and by cable to other Alaska ports and Seattle. Water and fuel oil can be obtained at the wharf. Coal may be purchased in limited quantities, and in larger quantities if sufficient notice be given. Cordova wharf is on the eastern shore % m ile northward of Spike Island and 2 miles southward of JDrca. It is 740 feet long and has a least depth of 29 feet along its face; a depth of 26 feet is found for a distance of 150 yards westward from its northern end. There is good anchorage in the channel westward of the wharf and Spike Island, in 8 to 10 fathoms. The edge of the flat on the western side of the inlet lies Y% mile westward of the wharf and y% mile south- westward of Spike Island. Spike Island is about 300 yards long and wooded. The inlet eastward and southward of it is shoal. CUR-RENTS, ORCA INLET. The tidal currents in Orca Inlet set southward on the flood and northward on the ebb. At Orca the strength of the flood occurs 2 hours before the time of high water and the strength of the ebb 2 hours 30 minutes before the time of low water at Kodiak. The mean velocity of the current at strength of flood is about 1.5 knots and at strength of ebb is 0.8 knot. Slack water before the flood occurs 15 minutes before time of low water at Kodiak, and slack water before the ebb occurs 1 hour and 10 minutes after time of high water at Kodiak. The current sets directly off the face of the Cordova wharf on both flood and ebb, due to the fact that the wharf is built off a small point with a decided bight in the shore on either side. At Cordova the strength of the flood occurs three hours before the time of high water, and the strength of the ebb three hours before the time of low water at Kodiak. The mean velocity of the current at strength of flood is about 2 knots and at strength of ebb is about 1.4 knots, although at times the current may exceed 3 knots. Slack water before the flood occurs 10 minutes after the time of low water at Kodiak, and slack water before the ebb occurs 30 minutes after the time of high water at Kodiak. DIRECTIONS, ORCA BAY. From Hinchinbrook Entrance. Round Cape Hinchinbrook at a dis- tance of about \y^ miles and follow the western shore of Hinchin- brook Island at a distance of about 1 mile, course 350 true (NW % N mag.). When the point 3 miles above Bear Cape is abeam, 44 ORCA BAY BISECTIONS. steer 31 true (N ^ E mag.) for 7% miles to a position 1 mile west- northwestward of Johnstone Point light. Then steer 66 true (NE % N mag.) for 8]4 miles to a position % m ile northwestward of Middle Ground Shoal bell buoy. Then steer 79 true (NE y s E mag.) for 17 miles, passing V^ mile off Windy Bay light and to a position 300 to 500 yards southeastward of the black buoy south-south westward of Channel Islands. Then steer 58 true (NNE y% E mag.) for 3 miles and pass in mid-channel eastward of Channel Islands and in mid-channel north- westward of North Island. Then haul eastward, pass J4 mile north- ward of North Island Rock light and buoy No. 2. Then steer 197 true (S by E mag.) for Orca cannery, follow a mid-channel course as defined by the red buoys and the end of the sawmill wharf, and pass the point on the eastern shore J^ mile southward of the saw- mill at a distance of 250 to 300 yards. Continue the course until the north end of Observation Island is abeam. Then steer 216 true (S Y% W mag.) and pass the point on the eastern shore 1 mile south- ward of the cannery at a distance of 300 yards. Then steer 211 true (S J/s W mag.) for Spike Island until about J4 m il e from the wharf at Cordova, and then haul in for the wharf. Approaching Cordova wharf with the flood (sou th-flo whig) current, vessels generally drop an anchor, swing to it, and then make the wharf. From Northwestward. Pass about 1 mile southward of Knowles Head and steer 107 true (E by N mag.) for about 12 J^ miles to a position 1 mile southward of Gravina Point. Then steer 96 true (ENE mag.) for 9J^ miles, passing Y% mile southward of the black buoy southward of Hanks Island, and to a position ^ mile north- westward of Windy Bay light. Then steer 79 true (NE % E mag.) for 4 miles to a position 300 to 500 yards southeastward of the black buoy south-southwestward of Channel Islands. Or, from a position 1 mile northward of Point Eleanor a 90 true (NE by E ]/2 E mag.) course made good for 47 ]/% miles should lead 1^ miles southward of Gravina Point, \y% miles southward of Sheep Point, and to a position y% to y mile from the southeastern shore above Windy Bay. Then follow the directions in the third para- graph preceding. * From South west ward. Directions from Latouche Passage to Seal Island are given on page 50. Pass about 1 mile southeastward of Seal Island and steer 74 true (NE mag.) for 31 miles, passing 2 miles northwestward of Johnstone Point light and to a position y^ mile northwestward of Middle Ground Shoal bell buoy. FIDALGO BAY has its entrance on the eastern shore of Prince William Sound between Goose and Bligh Islands, where it is 5 miles wide, and extends north- eastward 22 miles or more. There are mines in Boulder and Land- locked Bays and on the south shore of Fidalgo Bay, between Irish Cove and Whalen Bay. The waters of the main arm of Fidalgo Bay are deep and free from outlying dangers. Toward the head there are a number of small islets with good water close-to on the channel sides. Vessels may FIDALGO BAY. 45 navigate with safety as far as the entrance to the southeasterly arm at the head of the bay by keeping over J4 m ^ e offshore. Goose Island is 1H miles long, 320 feet high, and wooded, and has two prominent knolls. Gull Island, small and rocky, is midway between it and the shore. The passage between the islands should be avoided by strangers, and that between Gull Island and Porcu- pine Point is foul. Porcupine Point is a round, wooded bluff, 894 feet high, with a low depression between it and Knowles Head. A rock, bare at low water and marked by kelp, lies 350 yards northward of the point. Snug Corner Cove, on the northeast side of Porcupine Point, has good anchorage except from northwest winds, but the bottom is irregular and it should be avoided by large vessels. Foul ground extends % mile from the northeast shore of the cove, and a rocky patch with 4^ fathoms, possibly less, lies in the entrance ^ mile off the northeast side of Porcupine Point. There is a low divide at the head of the cove and another across Porcupine Point. To enter Snug Corner Cove, avoid the rock off Porcupine Point and follow the southwest shore at a distance of about J^ mile. Anchor about ^ mile off the bight in the southwest shore, before reaching the narrowest part of the cove, in 10 to 11 fathoms, soft bottom. Small vessels can find better shelter from northerly winds in the basin at the head of the cove, in a depth of 5 fathoms. Favor the south- west shore slightly when entering and anchoring. The shores of the basin should be given a berth of over J^ mile. Two Moon Bay, on the southeast shore of Fidalgo Bay, 4 miles above Porcupine Point, is 1 mile wide at the entrance, and about 2 miles long to the head of either of its two arms. Low divides extend through to Orca Bay from the head of the arms. There is good anchorage in the bay at the entrance to either arm, and vessels of moderate size can anchor in the arms, depths moderate, and bottom generally sticky. A mid-channel course should be followed in the arms. At the head of the southeast arm is a basin trending south- ward where small vessels can anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms. The chan- nel is between the west point and a reef bare at low water near the middle of the entrance. Irish Cove, on the southeast shore of Fidalgo Bay-, 7% miles above Porcupine Point, is a narrow inlet about 1 mile long. Small craft can find secure anchorage in the widest part near its head in 5 fathoms. To enter favor the eastern side to the narrows and then keep in mid- channel. A small wharf of the Fidalgo Mining Co. is located on the south shore, 1% miles southwestward of the entrance to Whalen Bay. Whalen Bay is 2^ miles long with an average width of 0.3 mile. Mud flats bare at low water, extend across the bay for a distance of y% mile from the head. Small vessels may enter the bay on a mid-channel course, and find anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel 1 mile inside the entrance. A group of islands and islets 180 to 190 feet high lies near the head of Fidalgo Bay. They are connected by mud flats to the shores to the eastward. A single islet lies about 900 yards southwestward of this group, the passage to the bight northward lying between the two. This bight has not been recommended as an anchorage. Its head is 46 FIDALGO BAY. obstructed by mud flats, and it is reported that strong williwaws will be encountered. The entrance to the southeast arm lies 2 miles southeastward of the group of islands described above. A dangerous rock, bare at half tide, lies on a line between the two entrance points, 460 yards off the easterly point. This rock is surrounded by deep water, and may be approached within 200 yards. The head of the arm terminates in a narrow passage about 60 yards wide and y% mile long, which opens put into a circular lagoon % mile in diameter. It is reported that this passage is foul and should not be attempted. Opposite the outer entrance to this passage, the head of the bay is obstructed by mud flats, which, at low tide, are bare, or covered with 1 to 2 fathoms of water. For this reason the head of the bay should not be approached closer than 1 mile. Anchorage for vessels of any size, well sheltered from wind and sea, may be found in mid-channel % mile northwestward from the rock awash at half tide, described above. The anchorage is in about 15 fathoms, mud bottom. Small vessels may find anchorage near the head of the southeast arm, in mid-channel, % mile beyond the rock. There is about 7 fathoms, mud bottom, in this position. Fish Bay is on the northwest shore of Fidalgo Bay, 9 miles above Porcupine Point. It is an indifferent anchorage and should be avoided by large vessels. The williwaws are heavy with northeast winds, drawing through the bay from the high mountains above its head. A small, wooded island lies just inside the entrance J4 rnile from the west side. The channel is eastward of the island and is obstructed near the middle by a rock with 3^ fathoms, possibly less. Rocks, bare at low water, lie 200 yards off the eastern point at the entrance. Anchorage can be had in the middle, % to 1 mile above the island, in 8 to 13 fathoms, bottom soft in places. A flat extends % mile from the head to the prominent point on the southeast side 1 J^ miles above the island. Landlocked Bay is on the northwest shore of Fidalgo Bay east of Bidarka Point. It has a clear width of about 1 mile at the entrance, contracts to 400 yards at 2 miles from the entrance, and then widens again to % mile. There is secure anchorage in the widest part above he narrows in 14 to 15 fathoms, sticky bottom. The bay is easily entered during daylight, but the shadows cast by the hills at night obscure the narrow entrance, rendering it difficult for vessels not equipped with a searchlight. The islands on the eastern side below the narrows have covering rocks near them. On the northwest side at the entrance of the narrows is an abandoned wharf. Near the middle of the narrows is a rock with 6 feet over it and marked by a buoy. The deepest water is northwest of the buoy, but the northwest shore abreast it should be given a berth of about 100 yards. There is a flat at the head of the bay with an islet at its lower edge. On the north side just below the edge of the flat is a wharf of the Three Man Mine. Water can be conveniently obtained from a fall on the south side of the bay southeastward of the wharf. To enter Landlocked Bay follow the western shore at a distance of about % rnile, pass in mid-channel westward of the islets below the FIDALGO BAY. 47 narrows, and pass about 50 yards northwestward of the buoy in the narrows, above which the mid-channel is clear. Bidarka Point is a wooded hill 912 feet high with a lower strip at its south end having considerable grassy areas. A shoal extends % mile southward from the point. Boulder Bay, between Bligh Island and Bidarka Point, is about 4 miles long and 2 miles wide at the entrance. There are several dangers in the bay, the depths are very irregular, and there is no desirable anchorage. On the east side at the head of the bay is a wharf, for vessels, of a copper mine. A reef, bare at lowest tides, lies ^ mile from the western shore of the bay; its eastern end, with 15 feet over it, lies % mnen westward of the wooded island in the middle near the head, bearing 17 true (N by W mag.), and stand in on this line, passing about 200 yards westward of the red buoy. On approaching the island, edge a little westward and pass midway between it and the grassy, partly wooded islet near the western shore. Then steer for the wharf. Bligh Island, on the eastern shore of Prince William Sound, is 4J/ miles long, 3 miles wide, and mountainous. The southwest end of the island is a steep wooded head 1,630 feet high with some yellow landslides near the water. On its northwest side are a number of islands with foul ground between. Reef Island, off the west side of Bligh Island, is 1 mile long, level and wooded, and has a single knoll, 338 feet high, in the middle, which distinguishes it from Goose Island. A rock, bare at low water, lies % mile 208 true (S mag.) from the southwest end of the island. The rock is marked by a buoy. Bligh Island Reef is % mile long with depths from 7 to 28 feet. It is marked at its south end by a buoy. The wreck of the Olympia stands on the reef and has the appearance of a vessel underway. The passage between the reef and Reef Island has deep water and is used at times by vessels rounding Bligh Island; the line of the west end of Busby Island and Rocky Point, bearing 23 true (N % W mag.), leads through the middle of the channel. Busby Island, off the northwest end of Bligh Island, is 1J^ miles long, 275 feet high, and partly wooded. Its western point is long, level, and wooded, and is surrounded by a reef to a distance of nearly J4 mile. The point is marked by a light, and a part of the wreck of the Saratoga shows near the end of the reef. Currents, At the entrance to Fidalgo Bay, north of Goose Island the mean strength of current is about 0.6 knot; slack water before flood and ebb occurring about two hours before the time of low water and high water, respectively, at Kodiak. 48 PEINCE WILLIAM SOUND. TATITLEK NARROWS AND VIRGIN BAY. Tatitlek Narrows separates Busby and Bligh Islands from trie main shore, and offers a more direct route for small craft between Port Valdez or Ellamar and points on Port Fidalgo. The channel has a depth of about 4 fathoms, but it is narrow with foul ground on both sides and should not be used by vessels in the absence of aids. Tatitlek is a small Indian village on the northeast shore at the southeast end of the narrows. Virgin Bay is a shallow bight J/ to % mn2 miles long. It is deep and clear, but rocks extend J mile from the .head. Small vessels can anchor }4 mile from the head in 15 to 20 fathoms. The southern arm on the eastern side of the bay is clear and affords anchorage for small vessels in 12 to 15 fathoms. The northern arm on the eastern side is an anchorage for small craft. Little Bay, on the south side of Knight Island, 1% miles westward of Point Helen, is 1 mile long, J^ mile wide, and clear so far as known. The depths are 13 to 18 fathoms rocky bottom, and it is a fair anchor- age except with southerly winds. Ice. Considerable glacial ice was seen in the passage south of Pleiades Islands. It comes from westward between Point Countess and Chenega Island, and drifts eastward as far as Latouche Passage with the ebb. The tidal currents in Knight Island Passage have a velocity of 1 to 2 knots at the strength of the large tides. DIRECTIONS. KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. From a position \y^ miles west of Storey Island make good a 211 true (S J4 W mag.) course for 21 miles, passing 1*4 miles off the west side of Herring Point and to a position 1 to 1 M miles eastward of Point Nowell. Then steer 196 true (S by E mag.) for Pleiades Islands with Lone Island astern; having stood 7 miles on this course, New Year Islands, 62 KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. on the north side at the entrance to Drier Bay, should bear about I y% miles on the port beam. Continue the 196 true (S by E mag.) course for 10^ miles from Point Nowell until 1)4 miles from Pleiades Islands and the south tangent of Chenega Island is abeam. Then steer 169 true (SE y% S mag.) for 2 J^ miles, passing midway between Point of Rocks and the Pleiades. When the southeast end of Squire Island is 1 mile on the port beam, steer 146 true (SE by E i E mag.) with the north end of Pleiades Islands astern. This course made good for 7 miles will lead 1J miles off the southern shore of the passage and to the north entrance to Latouche Passage, and the course made good for 10 miles will lead into Montague Strait. DRIER BAY has its main entrance between Mummy Island and New Year Islands on the west side of Knight Island 11^ miles southward of Herring Point and 4^ miles northward of Pleiades Islands. The bay is 5 miles long in a northeasterly direction and nearly 1 mile wide. The southeast shore is indented by a number of bays and coves and by Long Channel. The principal known dangers in the bay are mentioned in the fol- lowing description. In addition, the entire bay and approach are characterized by exceedingly broken bottom, and vessels should proceed with caution in the vicinity of such areas where abrupt changes in depth are shown by the chart to depths less than 50 fathoms. Mummy Island, on the south side at the entrance, is 1^ miles long, 543 fee-t high, and wooded; there are patches of grass on the southern half of the island. Reefs extend % mile southwestward from the northwest end of the island, and wooded islets with reefs around them extend % mile westward from the southern half of the island. A rock covered at high water lies M m il e 88 true (NE by E % E mag.) from the north end of the island, but is in the way only when using Long Channel. A rock with 4 fathoms over it lies J mile 64 time (NE % N mag.) from the north end of Mummy Island. New Year Islands are the southernmost of the islands which extend \Y% miles northward from the entrance to Drier Bay. They are about 2/8 mile long, wooded, and the southern and largest one 200 feet high. Bare reefs extend 250 yards southward of the south island. A rock bare at low water lies Ji mile 19 true (N % W mag.) from the north island, and is a serious danger in the ^channel between New Year Islands and the islands northward. Clam Islands, two in number, low and wooded, lie between New Year Islands and the north point of the bay. A rocky patch with 3% fathoms over it lies 600 yards 191 true (S by E ^ E mag.) from Clam Islands, and nearly % mile 102 true (ENE % E mag.) from the south end of New Year Islands. Range Isle, small and wooded, lies close to the north side of the bay and 2 miles inside New Year Islands. The line of Range Isle just clear of the north shore eastward of it, bearing 75 true (NE ]4= E mag.), leads about through the middle of the entrance between Mummy Island and New Year Islands, and is sometimes used as a range for entering the bay. DRIEK BAY. 63 Cathead Bay, on the south side 2 miles from Mummy Island, is 1 mile long and y to % mile wide. There are two islands in the upper part of the bay. The soundings taken indicate deep w T ater, but it is not thoroughly developed. In the entrance of the bay 200 yards from the west side is a rock with 4 feet over it. Also off the entrance, % mile 50 true (NNE mag.) from Cat Head and % mile 191 true (S by E % E mag.) from Kange Isle, is a rock with 3^ fathoms over it. When entering favor the east side to avoid these rocks and then proceed with caution on either side of the islands to its head. Mallard Bay, on the south side, 2J^ miles inside Mummy Island, is 1 mile long and % to % mile wide. The bay is foul for a distance of % mile from its head. Approaching with care, anchorage can be made % to Y 2 m il e from the head in 17 to 20 fathoms. Barnes Cove, 4 miles inside Mummy Island and 135 true (ESE }/% E mag.) from Chase Island, is obstructed by ledges at its entrance, and shoals make out from the shores of the cove. Small craft entering with care can find good anchorage in 8 fathoms. Vessels can anchor- 300 to 500 yards off the entrance in 20 to 22 fathoms. The point on the northeast side of Barnes Cove is prominent and high, with bare rocky sides. A reef extends 150 yards off the small point ^ mile northeastward of this point. Chase Island, small and wooded, lies 700 yards from the north- west side of the bay and 1% miles above Range Isle. A ledge bare at low water extends 300 yards southward from Chase Island. A rock awash at half tide lies 3 /s mile 61 true (NE by N mag.) from Chase Island. It is sometimes marked by a buoy. There is a rock bare at extreme low water between the half-tide rock and the northern shore. Northeast Cove, on the southeast side at the head of the bay, is small and has shoals at its entrance and also inside for 200 yards from its head. Small craft entering with care can find good anchor- age in 4 to 5 fathoms. Vessels can anchor 300 to 500 yards off the entrance in 17 to 20 fathoms. Anchorage can be selected about J4 m il e from shore in the north end of the bay, in about 20 fathoms. At the north end of the bay is the narrow entrance to a lagoon which affords good anchorage for small craft in 6 to 10 fathoms. There is 7 feet in the narrow entrance; a flat extends 250 yards from the head. A sunken rock lies in the approach 50 yards from the eastern shore and 100 yards southeastward from the narrow entrance. DIRECTIONS, DRIER BAY. Strangers may have some difficulty in recognizing the entrance to Drier Bay, as there are several groups of islands on the east side of Knight Island Passage, both north and south of the entrance. Approaching from northward the island in the mouth of Johnson Bay is a good mark. From northward, follow the directions for Knight Island Passage, and when 7 miles past Point Nowell the position should be midway between New Year Islands and the south end of a sand beach on Chenega Island. Then steer 129 true (E by S mag.) for the north end of Mummy Island and pass about % mile southward of the bare 64 DRIER BAY. rocks off the south end of New Year Islands. When New Year Islands are a little abaft the beam, steer 84 true (NE by E mag.) and pass about y% mile northward of Mummy Island into the bay. From southward, steer 16 true (N by W mag.) with Pleiades Islands astern until about 1 mile past the southeast point of Chenega Island. Then steer 64 true (NE % N mag.) with the southeast point of Chenega Island astern, and pass about ^ m il e northward of Mummy Island. Entering about midway between Mummy Island and the bare rocks southward of New Year Islands, steer 84 true (NE by E mag.) for 3)i miles, passing J^ mile southward of Range Isle. When 400 yards from the southeast shore above Mallard Bay, steer 50 true (NNE mag.), passing about 600 yards southeastward of Chase Island and about 400 yards off the southeast shore above the island. Then keep near the middle of the bay. MONTAGUE STRAIT, between Montague and Latouche Islands, is the broadest of the passages westward of Montague Island, and passing westward of Green Island offers a clear channel 4)^ miles wide from Prince William Sound to the sea. It is, however, rarely used, vessels generally pass- ing through Latouche and Elrington Passages. The passage between Green and Montague Islands has considerable foul ground and should be avoided by strangers in the absence of a survey. From a position 1 mile westward of Seal Island a 203 true (S ^g E mag.) course made good for 42 miles will lead 1 mile off the eastern shore of Latouche Island, \y% miles off the western shore of Montague Island near its southern end, and to a position about 2^ miles west- ward of Cape Cleare. Or, having made good the 203 true (S % E mag.) course for 30 miles to a position 1 mile off the eastern shore of Latouche Island 5J^ miles from Point Grace, steer 230 true (SSW mag.) for 8 miles to a position 2 miles southeastward from Danger Island. From this posi- tion a course can be shaped as desired. (See bearings and distances from Danger Island, on p. 66.) Green Island is wooded, about 6 miles long, 520 feet high near its middle, and slopes gradually to its north and south ends. The vicinity of the island is very foul. Two wooded islets and numerous small ones lie close to the northwest side of the northeastern half of the island. Three prominent rocks 10 to 15 feet high lie 1 to 1J4 miles off the northwest and west sides, the southwesternmost lying 1 mile southwestward from the western end of the island. An extensive reef, marked by kelp, lies midway between Green Island and Seal Island. It is apparently a ridge having a northerly direction for 2J^ miles, with bare rocks (about 3 feet high) at its north end, and numerous sunken rocks and others which show at extreme low water. The northern bare rock lies 3% miles southeast- ward from Seal Island, with deep water between. Between the reef and Green Island there is broken ground on which the least depth found is 10 fathoms, but the area has not been completely surveyed and should be avoided by vessels. Gibbon Anchorage is a secure harbor for small craft in the cove about the middle of the northwest side of Green Island. Passing MONTAGUE STRAIT. 65 600 yards southward of the outlying prominent rock which lies 1% miles westward of the cove, steer 126 true (E % S mag.) for Putnam Point, the prominent wooded point with a small bluff on the south- west side of the cove. When about ^ mile from shore, steer more eastward and pass nothing southward of midway between Putnam Point and the rock awash at high water which lies 400 yards north- ward of the point. When past the rock, anchor in the cove east- southeastward of it, in 6 to 8 fathoms. A rock awash at half tide lies 175 yards north-northeastward of the point lying l / mile west-south- westward of Putnam Point; and the southerly one of two rocks, bare at extreme low water, lies % mile 133 true (ESE ^ E mag.) of the outlying bare rock. A^low, wooded island % mile long lies iy$ miles southward from the south end of Green Island. A large reef, partly bare at low water, lies % to l^s miles south-south west ward from the south end of the low, wooded island. The Needle is a flat-topped, steep-sided rock, about 75 feet high, in the strait 3% miles from the nearest point of Montague Island and 5 y^ miles eastward from Point Helen. Hanning Bay is on the east side of the strait, 13 miles northward of Cape Cleare and 151 true (SE by E mag.) from the north end of Latouche Island. It is a good anchorage with easterly winds, but is exposed from northwest, through west, to southwest. It is about 2 miles in diameter, with depths from 7 to 22 fathoms. Shoals extend nearly % mile off from the streams at the northeast and southeast ends of the bay, and a reef extends nearly J^ mile from the point on the eastern side. The best anchorage with southerly winds is about s/8 mile from the south side, with Danger Island open from the south point at the entrance bearing 258 true (SW 1 A W mag.), and the north point at the entrance bearing between 5 true (NNW mag.) and 348 true (NW % N mag.), in 15 to 16 fathoms, sticky bottom. With northwest winds, a better berth can be had J to % mile off the cove on the north side, j^ mile inside the entrance, in 5 to 8 fathoms, hard bottom. When entering, give the points at the entrance a berth of over % mile. Macleod Harbor, on the east side of the strait, 6J^ miles northward of Cape Cleare, is not surveyed. It is 1 % miles wide at the entrance and possibly 2 miles long. The following information is from reports : Vessels can anchor in 13 to 14 fathoms about % mile off the sand beach on the south side in the lower part of the bay, but it is more exposed to the ocean swell than Hanning Bay. The depths at the entrance are 7 to 8 fathoms, and in the bay 12 to 21 fathoms. There is a dangerous flat on the eastern and southeastern sides of the bay. There is good anchorage for small craft and possibly very small ves- sels in a cove on the north side toward the head. The cove is formed by a point which is bold and should be kept aboard. The anchorage is with the south point of the harbor shut in by this point, about 200 yards from the latter, in 4J/ fathoms. Latouche Island is 10 miles long; and has elevations up to 2,255 feet. It is wooded to an elevation of about 500 feet, and above this is cov- ered with moss and bushes, except the highest peaks, which are bare rocks. The eastern shore is precipitous and the 100-fathom curve less than 34 mile off in places. 31056 16 5 66 MONTAGUE STRAIT. Danger Island, 1% miles southward of Latouche Island, is in diameter, low and wooded. The island is surrounded by bare rocks and kelp to a distance of ^g mile northward and southward of it, and raile eastward and westward. Eastward of the island the foul ground is not developed. There is no safe passage between it and Latouche Island. A bar with depths of 6 to 11 fathoms extends west-northwestward from Danger Island to Elrington Island. A depth of 3^2 fathoms is found on it % mile westward of Danger- Island, and 3% fathoms 700 yards from Elrington Island and 308 true (W by N mag.) from Danger Island. The following are bearings and distances from Danger Island : Barwell Island, off Cape Resurrection, 264 true (SW by W Y$ Wmag.), 36 J^ miles. Lone Rock, south end of Chiswell Islands, 246 true (SW J^ S mag.), 51 miles. Seal Rocks, 242 true (SW % S mag.), 53 miles. LATOUCHE AND ELRINGTON PASSAGES, between Latouche and Hoodoo Islands, are generally used by vessels between Prince William Sound and the coast southwestward, passing westward of Elrington Island. There is also considerable traffic to the wharves of the copper mines on the west side of Latouche Island. From Point Grace to the north end of Elrington Island, a distance of 5 miles, Latouche Passage is about 1% miles wide, with deep water. There is a wooded islet, with a grass-covered rock close to its north end, near Hoodoo Island % mile northwestward of the northern entrance. Latouche Passage, east of Elrington Island, is 7 miles long and % to 1 mile wide, with moderate depths, under 30 fathoms in most places. Anchorage can be selected nearly anywhere in this channel where the depth is suitable. At the south end the least depths found are 6 to 11 fathoms on the bar between Danger and Elrington Islands. A little southward of the former Barrack's Wharf, nearly 2 miles southward of Point Grace, a reef makes out over 100 yards from shore ; it is sometimes marked by a barrel buoy. Latouche, a post office on the west side of Latouche Island 2% miles southward of Point Grace, has a store, and is the site of the mine of the Beatson Copper Co. The new wharf at Latouche has a depth of about 20 feet at its end, and is about 200 feet long on its face. There is a rock about 100 feet northward of the wharf and on the line of its face. Vessels generally go to the wharf port side to, heading southward, and to leave the wharf swing the bow in toward the shore and back into the passage. There is a tramroad to the mine about y% mile southeastward, and considerable copper ore is shipped. The cove southward of the wharf is shoal, and a reef makes out about 100 yards from the point 400 yards southwestward of the wharf. Anchorage can be had 300 to 500 yards west-northwestward from the wharf in 10 to 15 fathoms. Chicken Island, 3^ miles southward from Point Grace, is the north- ern one of two small wooded islands, 2J^ miles apart, on the east side of Latouche Passage. It is separated from Latouche Island by a pass 350 yards wide with a depth of 4 feet. A rock with 15 feet over LATOUCHE PASSAGE. 67 it lies 300 yards off the point on the eastern shore % mile northward from Chicken Island. Horseshoe Bay is on the west side of Latouche Island, 4J^ miles southward of Point Grace. Its southern half is shoal; small craft or a very small vessel, entering close to the north point of the bay, can anchor in its north end in 18 to 20 feet of water. Just north- ward of the south point of the bay is a rock, covered at high water. Vessels can anchor about % mn^ miles to a position y% mile off the northeast side of Caines Head. From this position a 342 true (NW mag.) course for 6% miles will lead to Seward. 72 RESURRECTION BAY. From southward. Seal Rocks are high, have deep water around them, and are the best mark for which to shape the course. See also the remarks under Aialik Bay relating to the route occasionally used by small vessels passing northward of the islands in its entrance. Pass about 2 miles eastward of Seal Rocks and steer 15 true (N by W mag.) for 14 miles, passing about 1^ miles eastward of Chiswell Islands and to a position 1 mile eastward of Pilot Rock light. Then steer 2 true (NNW % W mag.) for 6% miles to a position % mile off the southwest point of Rugged Island. Then steer 13 true (N by W M W mag.) for 8J^ miles to a position Y^ mile off the northeast side of Games Head. From this position a 342 true (NW mag.) course for 6% miles will lead to Seward. Or, for vessels going inside of Seal Rocks, pass 1 to 1 ^ miles north- westward of Seal Rocks and steer 56 true (NNE y% E mag.) for 4 J^ miles until the easternmost of the Chiswell Islands bears on the port beam distant 1 J to 2 miles. Then steer 15 true (N by W mag.) for 10 miles to a position 1 mile eastward of Pilot Rock, as in the preceding paragraph. AIALIK BAY is 16 miles long from the north end of Harbor Island. It is inclosed by rugged mountains and glaciers and is of no importance except occasionally as an anchorage. The shores are steep and high, with precipitous slopes in many places, and are partly wooded in the southern part of the bay to an elevation of about 1,000 feet. The northern part of the bay is covered with alders in places. Aialik Bay has deep water with the exception of rocks near the shores, and a bar which crosses the bay from the glacial flat fronting Pederson Glacier. The least depth found on this bar near the middle of the bay is 18 feet, but it and the broken ground near the shores at the entrance of Holgate Arm are liable to have bowlders and less water than charted. As a measure of caution vessels should avoid the passages among the islands in the mouth of the bay. To take advantage of smoother water, small vessels in coasting southwestward from Resurrection Bay, and the reverse, sometimes enter the bay at Aialik Cape, pass south of Chat Island, round the north end of Harbor Island, and pass out at Granite Cape. From a position 1 mile east-southeastward of Granite Cape a 226 true (S by W % W mag.) course for 26 miles will lead to a position 3^ miles 155 true (SE J^ E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island. Chat Island is a steep, rocky, wooded island, 470 feet high; two conspicuous pinnacles he close to its south shore. Between it and Aialrk Cape are a smaller island and a number of rocks. Harbor Island is the largest of a group of high, precipitous, rocky, partly wooded islands, lying in the mouth of the bay and northwest of Chiswell Islands. The shore in many places is a sheer cliff, espe- cially the east shore of the eastern and highest island. Lying midway in the channel between the northern, beehive-shaped Chiswell Island and the small island at the southeast end of the Harbor Island group is a rock which is bare at lowest tides. Granite Island is a partially wooded, steep, precipitous island, 1,570 feet high. Granite Cape, at its southeast end, has a rock which covers at high water about 80 yards off. AIALIK BAY. 73 Between Granite Cape and the main shore are two small wooded islands about 200 feet high with a rock about 10 feet high between them. Twin Islands resemble each other in contour and are 400 and 550 feet high. They are wooded, and the arch off the south end of the northern island is conspicuous. Anchorages. The anchorages are few and indifferent due to the great depth. With southerly weather a swell makes well into the bay. The best anchorage is near the head of the middle arm of the three arm bay on the east side of Aialik Bay, about 3 miles north of Harbor Island, in 30 fathoms, good holding bottom. Anchorage can be had in the cove on the west side of the bay, west- ward (true) of the north end of Harbor Island. The anchorage is in 28 fathoms near the center of the cove. On each side of the entrance to this cove is a sharp, conical, wooded hill about 800 feet high. Close inshore off the point at the north entrance is a sharp pinnacle rock about 25 feet high; about 600 yards northeastward of this pinnacle is a rock which covers at about half tide. There is fair anchorage off the small bight which lies on the east side 1 y miles southward of the bar crossing the bay. Anchor in 22 to 25 fathoms off the middle of the bight and a little outside of the line joining the two points forming the bight. The bight may be recognized by a hanging glacier at its head. Ice. There are discharging glaciers at the head of Aialik Bay and Holgate Arm, and ice is frequently driven to Harbor Island by north- erly winds. Holgate Arm and the entire bay above the bar are fre- quently filled with ice. NUKA BAY lies between Pye Islands and Nuka Island; the outer part is about 8 miles long and 5 miles wide, and there are two main arms at its head. There are several bays and coves affording anchorage. The bay is not surveyed, but soundings through the middle indicate very deep water, as shown on the chart. Pye Islands, on the east side at the entrance of Nuka Bay, are thee rugged, mountainous islands having a total length of 7J^ miles. The highest peak of the outer island is near its eastern end, and is a good mark. Approaching from northeastward the break between the outer and second islands shows well. From southwestward the separate islands do not show, but at the eastern end is seen the highest peak, from which there is a slope to a high shelf at the water. There are breakers in places along the eastern side of the islands, the south- ernmost lying 2/g or y% mile eastward from the eastern end of the outer island. Pye Island Reef, awash or barely covered at high water, lies 2% miles 206 true (S mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island. There is always a break on the reef, but at high water with an excep- tionally smooth sea there may be some interval between them. Depths of 18 to 60 fathoms were found about midway between it and the island. The line of the western ends of the outer and second islands leads a little westward of the reef, and the line of the eastern ends of the outer and third islands leads well eastward of it. 74 NUKA BAY. The channel between the second and third Pye Islands has a kelp patch in its western entrance a little southward of mid-channel, and the eastern entrance is obstructed by breakers. McArthur Pass, between the third Pye Island and the mainland, is about 100 yards wide in its narrowest part for a distance of about 200 yards. A least depth of 7 fathoms was found in mid-channel, and the tidal current had a velocity of 4 to 5 knots southwestward through the pass near the time of low water. It is not recommended except for small vessels at slack water. The east arm of Nuka Bay lies at the western entrance of McArthur Pass. It is about 2 miles wide at the entrance and 5 miles long. A large glacier comes down to high-water mark at its head, and fre- quently discharges some ice. No bottom at 20 fathoms was found through the middle, and no bottom at 35 fathoms was found about 100 yards or less from the bare spit at the foot of the glacier. Indif- ferent anchorage in 25 fathoms was found near the northern shore of the first cove northward of McArthur Pass on the east side of the arm. Nuka Island, on the western side of Nuka Bay, is mountainous and about 8 miles long. At its southern end are two points; the southern one has the appearance of a large, high island, its outline being an arc of a circle, and is distinctive; the northwestern one is a high peak with a fairly regular slope to the water. Bare rocks show in the bight between these points and off the entrance. No information is available for Nuka Island Passage, westward of the island, and the eastern shore of the island should be given a good berth. Palisade Bay, on the east side of the west arm ol Nuka Bay, 9J/2 miles above outer Pye Island, will be known by a high, wooded island on the south side in its entrance. Anchorage can be had on the northeast side of the island, about on a line from its north end to the point on the main shore, in 14 to 20 fathoms. The cove on the southwest side of the island is foul. Palisade Bay is about 3 miles long. Anchorage can be had about J mile from the narrow part at its head, in 17 fathoms, with ample swinging room. From the top of an adjacent mountain a sunken rock was seen between this anchorage and the northeast shore, but a search for it in a boat did not find it. Cabin Bay, on the west side, opposite Palisade Bay, is about 2^ miles long. No bottom at 20 fathoms was found through the middle of the bay. A very small vessel anchored at its head in 13 fathoms. From the prominent point on the west shore southward of Cabin Bay a reef makes out about % mile. Rock Bay, on the east side of the west arm, \\Yi miles above outer Pye Island, will be known by a cluster of wooded islets and bare rocks on the south side at its entrance. From the islets to the north point at the entrance is a bank, on which there is kelp for about 150 yards from the islets, and a reef extending one-third the distance across from the point. Entering in mid-channel or slightly favor- ing the islets, a depth of 9 fathoms will be found over the bank. Anchorage can be had toward the eastern shore in 14 fathoms. The course in is about 121 true (E J^ S mag.). Shelter Cove, on the west side, 13^ miles above outer Pye Island, lies 236 true (SSW % W mag.) from the point dividing the north and west branches at the head of the west arm. The cove is small, NUKA BAY. 75 but affords anchorage in the middle of its entrance, in 13 fathoms, with ample swinging room. At the head of the cove is a grassy flat, in front of which is a good sized mud flat that covers. The point dividing the north and west branches at the head of the west arm has a small cluster of grass-covered rocks and wooded islets close-to. The west branch is 1J^ miles long, with deep water to the large mud flat at its head. The north branch is 5 miles long in a 31 true (N Y^ E mag.) direction and nearly 2 miles wide at the entrance, and has a depth of about 77 fathoms through the middle until abreast Pilot Harbor. There is a depth of 18 fathoms less than 50 yards from the low- water edge of the flat at its head. Pilot Harbor, on the eastern side of the north branch, 1 mile from its head, is a short bay having a 93 true (ENE mag.) direction. There is a large bare rock, about 3 feet high, off each point at the entrance. ^ Entering in mid-channel, a secure anchorage will be found in the middle, or slightly favoring the south side, in 13 to 15 fathoms. There is a flat at the head, on the low-water edge of which is a wooded islet, lying about ^ mile above the bare rock off the north point at the entrance. POINT GORE is a prominent headland lying 18 miles 247 true (SW J4 S mag.) from Pye Island Reef and 16 miles 70 true (NE mag.) from the southeast end of East Chugach Island. From eastward and west- ward it shows as an island with a high peak near the middle and a broad, high shoulder at the ends, and separated from the high land northward by a narrow gap. There is an arch in the rocks at the eastern end of Point Gore, which shows over a small arc from south- ward, and a folding in the strata in the face of the cliff on the south side of the point. The neck joining Point Gore to the mainland is low and wooded. Anchorage with shelter from southwest winds is reported toward the northwest shore off the east side of this neck in about 17 fathoms, but no description or definite information as to its exact location is available. It is wide open to all easterly winds, and vessels must be prepared to leave immediately when the swell begins to make around the point to the anchorage. On the west side of the neck back of Point Gore is a cove affording indifferent anchorage with easterly winds. The south point of the cove is the northwest end of Point Gore, and is a shelving ridge of bare rock, from the end of which rocks, bare at low water, and kelp extend about 200 yards northwestward. A rock covered at high water lies about 100 yards from the cliff at the southeast end of the cove, and a large kelp field extends about 200 yards northwestward from the rock. The anchorage is in 18 to 25 fathoms, soft bottom, 250 to 300 yards from the beach of the low neck and from the edge of the kelp off the rock, and about % mile from the cliff on the southern side. The water deepens rapidly northwestward, the swinging room is scant, and the anchorage is uneasy. To enter, round the south point of the cove at a distance of y 2 mile and steer 115 true (E mag.) for the gap in the trees, or lowest part of the neck. 76 KENAI PENINSULA. PORT DICK, on the west side of Point Gore, is about 2^ miles wide at the entrance and has a 357 true (NNW Yi W mag.) direction to the glacier at its head. From the western side West Arm extends westward about 6 J^ miles. The port is not surveyed; the depths in the middle are over 100 fathoms until well toward the head of West Arm. Sunday Harbor, on the east side, opposite the entrance of West Arm, is a small, double-headed bay, with anchorage for vessels of any size in its southeastern cove. The southern point at the entrance has a few rocks close-to, and a reef marked by Kelp extends westward from it. The western end of the reef is a very dangerous sunken rock, barely covered at low water, lying about y% mile 295 true (W mag.) from the point. To enter Sunday Harbor, stand up the middle of the port on a 357 true (NNW Yi W mag.) course, heading for the glacier at the head until off the entrance of the harbor. Enter the harbor on a 90 true (NE by E % E mag.) course, with the head of the harbor ahead and a high wooded islet on the southern side of West Arm astern. Anchor with the southwest point at the entrance to Port Dick open from the southeast point of the harbor, in 12 to 15 fathoms. There are a num- ber of high-water islets at the head of the harbor. The arm of Sunday Harbor northwest of the anchorage has a large grass-covered rock in its entrance. West Arm of Port Dick is about 1 mile wide at the entrance, and extends 295 true (W mag.) for 2J^ miles to the narrowest part of the arm, and then 291 true (W y% S mag.) about 3% miles, where there is anchorage in 13 to 15 fathoms below the rocky islet, with a few trees on top, which lies near the southern shore. The flat at the head extends below the houses on the north side, and vessels can not go above the islet. There is a cascade inside the islet. There is a bare reef close to the south point at the entrance to West Arm, and a high wooded islet lies on the south side, about % mile inside the entrance of the arm. On the north side of West Arm is a bay with an island in it. An- chorage is reported in the bay eastward of the island. Taylor Bay, the north arm of Port Dick, is reported to be foul. In the southwest approach to Port Dick there is a dangerous sunken rock, locally called Gore Rock, having 8 feet at mean lower low water, lying 73^ miles 244 true (SW YL S mag.) from Point Gore and 8^ miles 74 true (NE % E mag.) from the southeast point of East Chugach Island. It lies about % mile outside the line between these points and approximately 8^2 miles from shore. CHUGACH ISLANDS are three large, mountainous islands, named in order from eastward East Chugach, Pearl, and Elizabeth Islands, near the coast of Kenai Peninsula at the entrance of Cook Inlet. East Chugach Island is about 3% miles long and mountainous, and has a low valley through the middle in a northeasterly and south- westerly direction. The south peak has an elevation of 1,451 feet, and the peak near the west end is higher. The southeast point of the CHUGACH ISLANDS. 77 island is a cliff with a peak at its crest and slightly lower land back of it before rising to the mountains. There is a light on this point. The northwest point of the island is a low wooded point or spit. There is considerable foul ground between the island and the coast. The passage between East Chugach and Pearl Islands is clear and is used by vessels passing inside of Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. Pearl Island is about 2}/ miles long and 1% miles wide. It is mountainous, with elevations up to 1,742 feet, but its northwest part is much lower. Its northwest point is a sand spit on the west side and a high cliff on the north side. High bare rocks extend y% to % mile off the middle of the south side of the island. Nagahut Rocks are three large, prominent, bare rocks, close together and connected 'at low water, lying 1 ^ miles southwestward from the southwest end of Pearl Island, with foul ground and no safe passage between. Dora Reef is a small patch of sunken rocks, on which the sea breaks at low water with a moderate sea, lying l^ miles 238 true (SW by S mag.) from Nagahut Rocks. It is steep-to. There is deep water in the passage between Nagahut Rocks and Dora Reef on the southeast and Elizabeth Island on the northwest, but a depth of 6 fathoms was found % mile eastward from the rock or islet close to the southeast end of Elizabeth Island, and 4 fathoms 1 mile westward of the west end of Pearl Island. A reef, bare at low water, makes out about % mile from the eastern side of the prominent point on the north shore between Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. On the northeast part of the reef, about one- third the distance from the shore to its end, is a bare ledge that always shows above water. The outer rock that shows at low water lies about % mile 130 true (ESE % E mag.) from the point and about iy 8 miles 333 true (NW y% W mag.) from the northwest end of Pearl Island. This is the worst danger in the passage inside of Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. Elizabeth Island is about 3 miles in diameter and is two mountain masses, with elevations up to 1,656 feet, and a low valley between them extending through in a northwesterly direction. The northeast point of the island is a sand spit, awash at high water. There is a prominent, large, bare rock close to the north shore of Elizabeth Island about % mile westward of the sand spit. Southward of the rock, kelp makes out about 350 yards from Elizabeth Island. Cape Elizabeth is the western end of the island. The passage inside Pearl and Elizabeth Islands is commonly used by vessels entering Cook Inlet from eastward. It is about 1 mile wide, and depths of 9 to 10 fathoms were found in the shoalest part of the channel between the southeast end of Elizabeth Island and the dangerous reef extending from the north shore. There are strong tidal currents in the passage on either side of Eliz- abeth Island, and heavy tide rips occur from the northwest end of Pearl Island to the western end of the passage. The heaviest rips are in the vicinity of Pearl Island, with an ebb current and easterly wind. Heavy rips also occur off the southeast point of East Chugach Island. The turn of the current occurs later, possibly as much as one hour, in the passage than in the main entrance south of Elizabeth Island. 78 CHUGACH ISLANDS. DIRECTIONS, INSIDE PEARL AND ELIZABETH ISLANDS. From a position 1 mile south-southeastward from the southeast point of East Chugach Island, steer 293 true (W Y% S mag.) for 8 miles to a position ^ mile off the high north point of Pearl Island. Then steer 275 true (WSW M Wmag.), heading for the high south peak of Elizabeth Island. When Nagahut Rocks bear 180 true (SSE M E mag.), steer 347 true (NW % N mag.), heading for the prominent white scar in the cliffs on the north shore of the approach to Port Chatham, and pass about mid-channel between the shores of Elizabeth Island and the mainland. When the large bare rock close to the north shore of Elizabeth Island is abeam, and is closed with the north shore of Elizabeth Island west of it, steer 284 true (W by S mag.) for about 4J^ miles, with the middle one of the three highest peaks on the eastern shore astern, and pass % mile northward of the rock and over 1 mile southward of the yellow bluff at the east entrance point of Koyuktolik Bay. Then steer 307 true (WNW % W mag.) with the sharp southwest peak of Pearl Island snowing over the middle of the low valley in Elizabeth Island astern, and pass \y^ miles southwestward of Point Adam. DIRECTIONS, POINT GORE INSIDE EAST CHUGACH ISLAND. This area was partly surveyed in 1915. The results of this survey indicate the existence of a good channel inside East Chugach Island, with least depths of about 12 fathoms off the north spit, and depths of 20 to 80 fathoms eastward of the island. On the other hand, the depths found were very irregular, and a more detailed examination might reveal shoaler areas than those already found. The region is one which should not be considered free from danger until it has been dragged. A kite, set to depths of 12 fathoms from Elizabeth Island to the spit of East Chugach Island, and 15 to 20 fathoms in the deeper water eastward, was towed over the track here recommended. In using the passage, therefore, vessels are advised to follow this track closely, as elsewhere there is not, as yet, adequate assurance that the passage is free from dangers. From a position 1^ miles off Point Gore, steer 265 true (SW by W ^g W mag.) with the end of the sand spit on the northwest end of East Chugach Island right ahead, and in range with the south shore of Elizabeth Island. This course passes midway between Gore Rock and another rock, bare at low water, which lies 2% miles 352 true (NNW y% W mag.) from Gore Rock. Hold this course for 12 miles, until the southeast end of East Chugach Island bears 220 true (S by W y 8 W mag.), then steer 283 true (W by S mag.) for 4^ miles fo"r the head of Chugach Bay, passing 1 % miles off the northeast point of East Chugach Island. When the end of the spit on the northwest end of the island bears 211 true (S Y 2 W mag.) haul sharply to a 236 true (SSW % W mag.) course, heading midway between the two peaks of Pearl Island, and pass in mid-channel between the end of the spit and the bare reef off the south point of Chugach Bay. At the above change in course the reef on the north shore of East Chugach Island just eastward of the CHUGACH ISLANDS. 79 end of the spit should be abeam and in range with the high western peak of the island. Hold this course for 2.9 miles, until the rock off the south point of Chugach Bay bears 9 true (N by W % W mag.), and then steer 264 true (SW by W M W mag.) for 3^ miles, head- ing for the rocks off the south shore of Elizabeth Island, to a point ^2 mile off the high north point of Pearl Island. Then proceed as di- rected for the passage inside Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. In following the above courses, care should be taken to make proper allowance for the currents which set in and out of Port Dick, and diagonally across the course in approaching East Chugach Island. Because of these currents, the passage should not be attempted unless the weather is clear enough to permit the leading marks to be seen. BARREN ISLANDS are six, mountainous, grass-covered islands nearly in the middle of the entrance to Cook Inlet between Chugach Islands and Shuyak Island, and are about 13 miles long and 5 miles wide. The best anchorages are Amatuli Cove and the northern bight in the western end of Ushagat Island. Some sounding has been done, and the dangers so far as known are mentioned. The tidal currents have great velocity among and outside the islands, the flood current setting northwestward and being apparently stronger than the ebb. Heavy tide rips occur with strong winds in the vicinity of the islands, and during spring tides are frequently dangerous for small vessels. East Amatuli Island, at the eastern end of the group, is about 2 miles long and has a high peak at either end joined by a sharp ridge, which at the head of Amatuli Cove is about 300 feet high. A rocky islet about 100 feet high lies 250 yards off its eastern end. Amatuli Cove, on the northwest side of East Amatuli Island, is about y