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GIFT OF 
 
Serial No. 34 
 
 DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE 
 
 U. S. COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY 
 E. LESTER JONES, SUPERINTENDENT 
 
 UNITED STATES COAST PILOT 
 
 ALASKA 
 
 PART II 
 
 YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN 
 
 FIRST EDITION 
 
 PRICE,- 5'6 GEM'S 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 GOVERNMENT FEINTING OFFICE 
 1916 
 
DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE, 
 U. S. COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY, 
 
 Washington, D. C., February 29, 1916. 
 
 This publication covers the coast of Alaska from Yakut at Bay to 
 the Arctic Ocean, including the Aleutian Islands. 
 
 In the surveyed areas it is based upon the work of the United 
 States Coast and Geodetic Survey, while in the unsurveyed areas it 
 is a compilation of information gathered from a wide variety of 
 sources. 
 
 The material was gathered by the coast pilot section, assisted by 
 various field officers, and the final compilation made by R. S. Patton, 
 chief, coast pilot section, and A. L. Giacomini, nautical expert, under 
 the direction of Herbert C. Graves, chief of the division of hydrog- 
 raphy and topography, Coast and Geodetic Survey. 
 
 Navigators are requested to notify the Superintendent of the Coast 
 and Geodetic Survey of any errors or omissions they may find in this 
 publication, or of additional matter which they think should be 
 inserted for the information of mariners. 
 
 E. LESTER JONES, 
 
 Superintendent. 
 3 
 
 335671 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Note 
 
 Navigational aids and the use of 
 
 charts 
 
 General information (Yakutat Bay 
 
 to Arctic Ocean) 
 
 Tides 
 
 Currents 
 
 Directions, Yakutat Bay to Kodiak 
 Yakutat Bay to Cape St. Elias. . . . 
 Cape St. Elias to Prince William 
 Sound : 
 
 Controller Bay 
 
 Katalla Bay 
 
 Copper River 
 
 Middleton Island 
 
 Prince William Sound : 
 
 Currents, Prince William Sound . 
 
 Port Etches 
 
 Constantino Harbor 
 
 Zaikof Bay 
 
 Rocky Bay 
 
 Northwest shore of Hinchinbrook 
 Island 
 
 Orca Bay 
 
 Orca Inlet 
 
 Currents, Orca Inlet 
 
 Directions, Orca Bay 
 
 Fidalgo Bay 
 
 Tatitlek Narrows and Virgin Bay 
 
 Valdez Arm 
 
 Directions, Port Valdez 
 
 Islands in Prince William Sound 
 
 Prince William Sound, northwest 
 part 
 
 Passage Canal 
 
 Directions," Passage Canal 
 
 Knight Island and associated is- 
 lands 
 
 Knight Island Passage 
 
 Directions, Knight Island Pas- 
 
 Drier Bay 
 
 Directions, Drier Bay. 
 
 Page. 
 
 20 
 21 
 
 23. 
 
 25 
 
 28 
 
 30 
 32 
 34 
 34 
 
 35 
 36 
 38 
 38 
 39 
 
 39 
 40 
 42 
 43 
 43 
 44 
 48 
 48 
 50 
 51 
 
 52 
 54 
 55 
 
 55 
 58 
 
 61 
 62 
 63 
 
 Page. 
 
 Prince William Sound Contd. 
 
 Montague Strait 64 
 
 Latouche and Elrington Pas- 
 sages 66 
 
 Directions, Latouche and El- 
 rington Passages 68 
 
 Prince of Wales Passage 68 
 
 Kenai Peninsula, South Coast : 
 
 Cape Puget to Cape Resurrection 69 
 
 Resurrection Bay . 70 
 
 Directions, Resurrection Bay. . . 71 
 
 AialikBay 72 
 
 NukaBay 73 
 
 Point Gore 75 
 
 Port Dick 76 
 
 Chugach Islands 76 
 
 Directions, inside Pearl and Eliz- 
 abeth Islands 78 
 
 Directions, Point Gore, inside 
 
 East Chugach Island 78 
 
 Barren Islands 79 
 
 Cook Inlet 80 
 
 Currents, Cook Inlet 83 
 
 Directions, Cook Inlet 85 
 
 Port Chatham 86 
 
 Directions, Port Chatham 87 
 
 Coast from Port Chatham to Sel- 
 
 dovia 87 
 
 Port Graham 88 
 
 Directions, Port Graham 89 
 
 Seldovia Bay 90 
 
 Directions, Seldovia Bay 91 
 
 Eastern shore of Cook Inlet 92 
 
 Western shore of Cook Inlet 97 
 
 Kodiak and Afognak Islands 105 
 
 East coast of Shuyak and Afog- 
 nak Islands 105 
 
 Marmot Bay 107 
 
 Danger Bay '. 109 
 
 Directions, Danger Bay 110 
 
 Afognak Bay 110 
 
 Directions, Afognak Bay Ill 
 
 Afognak Strait 112 
 
6 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Kodiak and Afognak Islands^- 
 Continued. 
 
 Directions, Afognak Strait 113 
 
 Chiniak Bay and St. Paul 
 
 Harbor 114 
 
 Southern entrance 115 
 
 Northern entrance 115 
 
 Channel westward of Near Is- 
 land 116 
 
 Directions, St. Paul Harbor. . . 117 
 
 Narrow Strait to Whale Passage. 119 
 
 Whale Passage 120 
 
 Kupreanof Strait 121 
 
 Directions, Kodiak to Shelikof 
 
 Strait 123 
 
 Shelikof Strait 124 
 
 West Coast of Shuyak and Afog- 
 nak Islands 125 
 
 MalinaBay 127 
 
 Viekoda Bay 128 
 
 Uganik Passage 129 
 
 Uganik Bay 130 
 
 Directions, Uganik Bay 132 
 
 Uyak Bay 132 
 
 Directions, Uyak Bay 135 
 
 Cape Uyak to Cape Karluk 135 
 
 Kodiak Island, south coast 136 
 
 Trinity Islands 139 
 
 Alitak Bay 141 
 
 Directions, Alitak Bay 145 
 
 Chirikof Island 146 
 
 Semidi Islands 147 
 
 Alaska Peninsula 147 
 
 Directions, Cape Ikti to Cape 
 
 Kalekta 148 
 
 Shaw Island to Takli Island .... 152 
 
 Takli Island to Cape Ikti 156 
 
 ChignikBay 157 
 
 Cape Ikti to Kupreanof Point. . . 161 
 Kupreanof Point to Cape Aliak- 
 
 sin 164 
 
 Shumagin Islands 166 
 
 Simeonof Island 166 
 
 Little Koniuji Island 167 
 
 Chernabura Island 168 
 
 Bird Island 168 
 
 Big Koniuji Island 168 
 
 East Nagai Strait 169 
 
 Nagai Island 170 
 
 West Nagai Strait 173 
 
 Andronica Island 174 
 
 Gorman Strait 174 
 
 Korovin Island.. 174 
 
 Page. 
 
 Alaska Peninsula Continued. 
 Shumagin Islands Continued. 
 
 Karpa Island 175 
 
 Popof Island 175 
 
 Popof Strait 176 
 
 Directions, Popof Strait 176 
 
 Unga Island 178 
 
 ZacharyBay 181 
 
 Unga Strait 181 
 
 Cape Aliaksin to Belkofski 182 
 
 Pavlof Islands 183 
 
 Belkofski to Ikatan Bay 185 
 
 Sannak Islands 187 
 
 Ikatan Bay and Isanotski Strait. 191 
 
 Ikatan Peninsula 192 
 
 Unimak Island, Otter Cove to 
 
 Cape Sarichef 194 
 
 Aleutian Islands 196 
 
 Fox Islands and Passes 196 
 
 Directions, Unimak Pass 198 
 
 Ugamak Island 199 
 
 Tigalda Island 200 
 
 Avatanak Island 200 
 
 Rootok Island 201 
 
 Akun Island 201 
 
 Akutan Island 202 
 
 Akutan Pass 204 
 
 Directions, Akutan Pass 204 
 
 Unalga Island 205 
 
 Unalga Pass 205 
 
 Directions, Unalga Pass 205 
 
 Unalaska Island 206 
 
 Beaver Inlet 206 
 
 English Bay..... 207 
 
 KalektaBay 208 
 
 Unalaska Bay 208 
 
 Dutch Harbor 209 
 
 Iliuliuk Harbor 210 
 
 Directions, Unalaska Bay 211 
 
 North coast of Unalaska Is- 
 land 213 
 
 South coast of Unalaska Is- 
 land 214 
 
 Umnak Pass 215 
 
 Bogoslof Island 215 
 
 Umnak Island 216 
 
 Islands of Four Mountains 217 
 
 Yunaska, Amukta, and Chagu- 
 
 lak Islands 218 
 
 Seguam Island 218 
 
 Andreanof Islands 218 
 
 Adak Island 220 
 
 Rat Islands... 222 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Aleutian Islands Continued. Page. 
 
 Kiska Island 222 
 
 Buldir Island 223 
 
 Agattu Island 224 
 
 Attu Island 224 
 
 Bering Sea 224 
 
 Bristol Bay 229 
 
 Coast from Unimak Pass to 
 
 PortMoller 229 
 
 PortMoller 231 
 
 Herendeen Bay 232 
 
 Port Moller to Kvichak River. 233 
 
 Kvichak Bay and River 236 
 
 Nushagak Bay and River 238 
 
 Directions, Nushagak Bay and 
 
 River 243 
 
 Cape Constantino to Cape 
 
 Newenham 245 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River 246 
 
 Currents, Kuskokwim Bay and 
 
 River 250 
 
 Directions, Kuskokwim Bay and 
 
 River 251 
 
 Pribilof Islands 254 
 
 St. George Island 254 
 
 Otter Island 255 
 
 Walrus Island 255 
 
 St. Paul Island 255 
 
 Nunivak Island. . 257 
 
 Bering Sea Continued. Page. 
 
 St. Matthew and adjoining 
 
 islands 259 
 
 Cape Vancouver to Apoon Pass . 260 
 
 St. Lawrence Island 263 
 
 Norton Sound 265 
 
 St. Michael 266 
 
 St. Michael Bay to Cape Darby. 266 
 
 Golofnin Bay 267 
 
 Rocky Point to Cape Nome. . . 268 
 
 Directions, Unimak Pass or Cape 
 Kalekta to Norton Sound or 
 
 Port Clarence 269 
 
 Directions, Isanotski Strait to St. 
 
 Michael 270 
 
 Coast from St. Michael to Apoon 
 
 Pass 271 
 
 Apoon Pass 273 
 
 Coast from Cape Nome to Bering 
 
 Strait 274 
 
 Port Clarence 276 
 
 Directions, Port Clarence 277 
 
 Arctic Ocean 277 
 
 Kotzebue Sound 282 
 
 Hotham Inlet 284 
 
 Kotzebue Sound to Point Bar- 
 row 285 
 
 Coast Eastward of Point Barrow. 289 
 
 INDEX.. 291 
 
NOTE. 
 
 The courses and bearings given in degrees are true, reading clock- 
 wise from at north to 360, and are followed by the equivalent 
 magnetic value in points in parentheses. General directions, such as 
 northeastward, west-southwestward, etc., are magnetic. 
 
 Distances are in nautical miles, and may be converted approxi- 
 mately to statute miles by adding 15 per cent to the distances given. 
 
 Currents are expressed in knots, which are nautical miles per hour. 
 
 Except where otherwise stated, all depths are at mean lower low 
 water. 
 
 Supplements and other corrections for this volume are issued from 
 time to time, and will be furnished, free of charge, on application to 
 the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C., provided the 
 volume itself has not been superseded by a subsequent edition. 
 3 
 
UNITED STATES COAST PILOT. 
 
 ALASKA PART II YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS AND THE USE OF CHARTS. 
 
 The Coast and Geodetic Survey is charged with the survey of the 
 coasts, harbors, and tidal estuaries of the United States and its insu- 
 lar possessions and issues the following publications relating to these 
 waters as guides to navigation: Charts, Coast Pilots, Tide Tables, a 
 catalogue of these publications, and Notice to Mariners, the last 
 named published weekly by the Bureau of Lighthouses and Coast 
 and Geodetic Survey. 
 
 Charts bear three dates which should be understood by persons 
 using them (1) the date (month and year) of the edition, printed on 
 the late charts below the border in a central position and on the 
 older ones on the face of the chart; (2) the date of the latest correc- 
 tion to the chart plate, printed in the lower left-hand corner below 
 the border; (3) the date of issue, stamped below the border and just 
 to the left of the subtitle. 
 
 Charts show all necessary corrections as to lights, beacons, buoys, 
 and dangers, which have been received to the date of issue, being hand 
 corrected since the latest date printed in the lower left-hand corner. 
 All small but important corrections occurring subsequent to the date 
 of issue of the chart are published in Notices to Mariners, and should 
 be applied by hand to the chart immediately after the receipt of the 
 notices. 
 
 The date of the edition of the chart remains unchanged until an 
 extensive correction is made on the plate from which the chart is 
 printed. The date is then changed and the issue is known as a new 
 edition. 
 
 When a correction, not of sufficient importance to require a new 
 edition, is made to a chart plate, the year, month, and day are noted 
 in the*wwer left-hand corner. 
 
 All the notes on a chart should be read carefully, as in some cases 
 they relate to the aids to navigation or to dangers that can not be 
 clearly charted. 
 
 The charts are various in character, according to the objects which 
 they are designed to subserve. The most important distinctions are 
 the following: 
 
 1. Sailing charts, mostly on a scale of approximately 17200,000 
 which exhibit the approaches to a large extent of coast, give the 
 offshore soundings, and enable the navigator to identify his position 
 as he approaches from the open sea. 
 
 9 
 
10 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 
 
 2. General charts of the coast, on scales of 40 o?ooo and 20 o?ooo 
 intended especially for coastwise navigation. 
 
 3. Coast charts, on a scale of 80j ^ 00 , by means of which the navi- 
 gator is enabled to avail himself of the channels for entering the 
 larger bays and harbors. 
 
 4. Harbor charts, on larger scales, intended to meet the needs of 
 local navigation. 
 
 COAST PILOTS, relating to the surveyed waters of the United States, 
 Porto Rico, and a part of Alaska, and Sailing Directions of the 
 Philippine Islands, contain full nautical descriptions of the coast, 
 harbors, dangers, and directions for coasting and entering harbors. 
 Similar information relating to parts of Alaska and Hawaii is pub- 
 lished in Coast Pilot Notes. 
 
 Coast Pilots are corrected for important information received to 
 the date of issue, which is stamped on the correction sheets accom- 
 panying the volume. From time to time, as the material accumu- 
 lates, supplements are issued, containing the more important cor- 
 rections since the publication of the volume. The supplements are 
 printed on one side of the paper only, so that they may be cut and 
 pasted in the appropriate places in the volume. Supplements and 
 other corrections for any volume can be furnished, free of charge, 
 on application to the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C., 
 provided the volume itself has not been superseded by a subsequent 
 edition. 
 
 TIDE TABLES. The Coast and Geodetic Survey Tide Tables are 
 issued annually in advance of the year for which they are made, and 
 contain the predicted time and height of the tides for each day in the 
 year at the principal ports of the world, including the United States 
 and its possessions. A table of tidal differences is given by means 
 of which the tides at more than 3,000 intermediate ports may be 
 obtained. Separate reprints from the general Tide Tables are issued 
 for the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of the United States and its 
 dependencies. 
 
 AGENCIES for the sale of the Charts, Coast Pilots, and Tide Tables 
 of the Coast and Geodetic Survey are established in many ports of 
 the United States and in some foreign ports. They can also be 
 purchased in the office of the Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washing- 
 ton, D. C., or any of the suboffices of the Survey. If ordered by 
 mail, prepayment is obligatory. Remittances should be made by 
 postal money order or express order, payable to the "Coast and 
 Geodetic Survey." Postage stamps, checks, and drafts can not be 
 accepted. The sending of money in an unregistered letter is unsafe. 
 Only catalogue numbers of charts need be mentioned. Th cata- 
 logue of charts and other publications of the Survey can be obtained 
 free of charge on application at any of the sale agencies or to the 
 Coast and Geodetic Survey Office, Washington, D. C. 
 
 OTHER PUBLICATIONS. Lists of Lights, Buoys, and other Day- 
 marks of the United States, its insular possessions, and the Great 
 Lakes, are published by the Bureau of Lighthouses. Notice to 
 Mariners, relating to the same waters, are published weekly by the 
 Bureau of Lighthouses and Coast and Geodetic Survey. These pub- 
 lications can be obtained free of charge on application to the Divi- 
 sion of Publications, Department of Commerce, Washington, D. C. 
 
NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 11 
 
 USE OF CHARTS. 
 
 ACCURACY OF CHART. The value of a chart depends upon the char- 
 acter and accuracy of the survey on which it is based, and the larger 
 the scale of the chart the more important do these become. In these 
 respects the source from which the information has been compiled is 
 a good guide. 
 
 This applies particularly to the charts of the Alaska Peninsula, 
 Aleutian Islands, Arctic Ocean, and part of Bering Sea and the 
 Philippine Islands. The early Russian and Spanish surveys were 
 not made with great accuracy, and until they are replaced by later 
 surveys these charts must be used with caution. 
 
 With respect to these regions the fullness or scantiness of the 
 soundings is another method of estimating the completeness of a 
 chart. When the soundings are sparse or unevenly distributed it 
 may be taken for granted that the survey was not in great detail. 
 
 A wide berth should therefore, be given to every rocky shore or 
 patch, and this rule should invariably be followed, viz, that instead 
 of considering a coast to be clear unless it is shown to be foul, the 
 contrary should be assumed. 
 
 With respect to a well-surveyed coast only a fractional part of the 
 soundings obtained are shown on the chart, a sufficient number being 
 selected to clearly indicate the contour of the bottom. When the 
 bottom is uneven the soundings will be found grouped closely to- 
 gether, and when the slopes are gradual fewer soundings are given. 
 Each sounding represents an actual measure of depth and location 
 at the time the survey was made. 
 
 Shores and shoals where sand and mud prevail, and especially bar 
 harbors and the entrances of bays and rivers exposed to strong tidal 
 currents and a heavy sea, are subject to continual change of a greater 
 or less extent, and important ones may have taken place since the 
 date of the last survey. In localities which are noted for frequent 
 and radical changes, such as the entrance to a number of estuaries on 
 the Atlantic, Gulf, and Pacific coasts, notes are printed on the charts 
 calling attention to the fact. 
 
 It should also be remembered, that in coral regions and where rocks 
 abound it is always possible that a survey with lead and line, however 
 detailed, may have failed to find every small obstruction. For these 
 reasons when navigating such waters the customary sailing lines and 
 channels should be followed, and those areas avoided where the irregular 
 and sudden changes in depth indicate conditions which are associated 
 with pinnacle rocks or coral heads. 
 
 DREDGED CHANNELS. These are generally shown on the chart 
 by two broken lines to represent the side limits of the improvement. 
 Before completion of the project the depth given is that shown by the 
 latest survey received from the engineer in charge. Alter completion 
 the depth given is the one proposed to be maintained by redredging 
 when necessary. 
 
 The actual depth of a completed channel may be greater than the 
 charted depth shortly after dredging, and less when shoaling occurs 
 as a result of storms or other causes. These changes are of too 
 frequent occurrence and uncertain duration to chart. Therefore 
 when a vessel's draft approximates the charted depth of a dredged 
 channel, the latest information should be obtained before entering. 
 
12 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 
 
 DANGER CURVES. The curves of depth will be found useful in 
 giving greater prominence to outlying dangers. It is a good plan 
 to trace out with a colored pencil the curve next greater than the 
 draft of the vessel using the chart, and regard this as a "danger 
 curve," which is not to be crossed without precaution. 
 
 Isolated soundings shoaler than surrounding depths should be 
 avoided, as there is always the possibility that the shoalest spot 
 may not have been found. 
 
 CAUTION IN USING SMALL-SCALE CHARTS. It is obvious that 
 dangers to navigation can not be shown with the same amount of 
 detail on small-scale charts as on those of larger scale, therefore in 
 approaching the land or dangerous banks regard should be had to 
 the scale of the chart used. A small error in laying down a position 
 means only yards on a large-scale chart, whereas on a small scale 
 the same amount of displacement means large fractions of a mile. 
 
 For the same reason, bearings to near objects should be used in 
 preference to objects farther off, although the latter may be more 
 prominent, as a small error in bearing or in laying it down on the 
 chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer the 
 line to be drawn. 
 
 DISTORTION OF PRINTED CHARTS. The paper on which charts 
 are printed has to be dampened. On drying, distortion takes place 
 from the inequalities in the paper, which varies with the paper and 
 the amount of the original dampening; but it is not sufficient to 
 affect ordinary navigation. It must not, however, be expected 
 that accurate series of angles taken to different points will always 
 exactly agree, when carefully plotted upon the chart, especially if 
 the lines to objects be long. The larger the chart the greater the 
 amount of this distortion. 
 
 BUOYS. Too much reliance should not be placed on buoys always 
 maintaining their exact position, especially when in exposed posi- 
 tions; it is safer, when possible, to navigate by bearings or angles 
 to fixed objects on shore and by the use of soundings. 
 
 GAS BUOYS and other unwatched lights can not be implicitly relied 
 on; the light may be altogether extinguished, or, if intermittent, 
 the apparatus may get out of order. 
 
 LIGHTS. The distances given in the light lists and on the charts 
 for the visibility of lights are computed for a height of 15 feet for 
 the observer's eye. The table of distances of visibility due to height, 
 published in the Light List, affords a means of ascertaining the effect 
 of a greater or less height of the eye. The glare of a powerful light 
 is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of 
 the light, but this must not be confounded with the true range. 
 Again, refraction may often cause a light to be seen farther than 
 under ordinary circumstances. 
 
 When looking for a light, the fact may be forgotten that from aloft 
 the range of vision is increased. By noting a star immediately over 
 the light a bearing may be afterwards obtained from the standard 
 compass. 
 
 The actual power of a light should be considered when expecting 
 to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily obscured by 
 haze, and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. 
 
 The power of a light can be estimated by its candlepower as given 
 in the light lists and in some cases by noting how much its visibility 
 
NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 13 
 
 in clear weather falls short of the range due to the height at which it 
 is placed. Thus a light standing 200 feet above the sea and recorded 
 as visible only 10 miles in clear weather is manifestly of little bril- 
 liancy, as its height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles if of suffi- 
 cient power. 
 
 FOG SIGNALS. Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through 
 the atmosphere. Apart from the wind, large areas of silence have 
 been found in different directions and at different distances from the 
 origin of the sound signal, even in clear weather. Therefore too 
 much confidence should not be felt as to hearing a fog signal. The 
 apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal may require some time 
 before it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imperceptibly 
 toward the land and is not observed by those at a lighthouse until 
 it is upon them, whereas a vessel may have been in it for many hours 
 while approaching the land. In such a case no signal may be 
 sounded. When sound travels against the wind, it may be thrown 
 upward; in such a case a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudi- 
 ble on deck. The conditions for hearing a signal will vary at the 
 same station within short intervals of time; mariners must not, there- 
 fore, judge their distance from a fog signal by the force of the sound 
 and must not assume that a signal is not sounding because they do 
 not hear it. 
 
 Taken together, these facts should induce the utmost caution when 
 nearing the land or danger in fog. The lead is generally the only 
 safe guide and should be faithfully used. 
 
 SUBMAEINE BELLS have an effective range of audibility greater 
 than signals sounded in air, and a vessel equipped with receiving 
 apparatus can determine the approximate bearing of the signal. 
 These signals can be heard also on vessels not equipped with receiv- 
 ing apparatus by observers below the water line, but a bearing of 
 the signal can not then be readily determined. 
 
 TIDES. A knowledge of the tide, or vertical rise and fall of the 
 water, is of great and direct importance whenever the depth at low 
 water approximates to or is less than the draft of the vessel and 
 wherever docks are constructed so as to be entered and left near the 
 time of high water. But under all conditions such knowledge may 
 be of indirect use, as it often enables the mariner to estimate in 
 advance whether at a given time and place the current will be run- 
 ning flood or ebb. In using the tables slack water should not be 
 confounded with high or low tide nor a flood or ebb current with 
 flood or ebb tide. In some localities the rise or fall may be at a 
 stand while the current is at its maximum velocity. 
 
 THE TIDE TABLES published by the Coast and Geodetic Survey 
 give the predicted times and heights of high and low waters for most 
 of the principal ports of the world and tidal differences and constants 
 for obtaining the tides at all important ports. 
 
 PLANE OF REFERENCE FOR SOUNDINGS ON CHARTS. For the Atlan- 
 tic coast of the United States and Porto Rico the plane of refer- 
 ence for soundings is the mean of all low waters; for the Pacific 
 coast of the United States and Alaska, with the two exceptions noted 
 below, and for the Hawaiian and Philippine Islands, it is the mean 
 of the lower low waters. For Puget Sound, Wash., the plane of ref- 
 erence is 2 feet below mean lower low water and for Wrangell Strait, 
 Alaska, it is 3 feet below mean lower low water. 
 
14 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 
 
 For the Atlantic coast of the Canal Zone, Panama, the -plane of 
 reference for soundings is mean low water, and for the Pacific coast 
 of the same it is low-water springs. 
 
 For foreign charts many different planes of reference are in use, 
 but that most frequently adopted is low-water springs. 
 
 It should be remembered that whatever plane of reference is used 
 for a chart there may be times when the tide falls below it. When 
 the plane is mean low water or mean lower low water there will 
 generally be as many low waters or lower low waters below those 
 planes as above them. Also the wind may at times cause the water 
 to fall below the plane of reference. 
 
 TIDAL CURRENTS. In navigating coasts where the tidal range is 
 considerable special caution is necessary. It should be remembered 
 that there are indrafts into all bays and bights, although the general 
 set of the current is parallel to the shore. 
 
 The turn of the tidal current offshore is seldom coincident with the 
 time of high and low water on the shore. 
 
 At the entrance to most harbors without important tributaries or 
 branches the current turns at or soon after the times of high and low 
 water within. The diurnal inequality in the velocity of current will 
 be proportionately but half as great as in the height of the tides. 
 Hence, though the heights of the tide may be such as to cause the 
 surface of the water to vary but little in level for 10 or 12 hours, the 
 ebb and flow will be much more regular in occurrence. 
 
 A swift current often occurs in narrow openings between two 
 bodies of water, because the water at a given instant may be at 
 different levels. 
 
 Along most shores not seriously affected by bays, tidal rivers, etc., 
 the current usually turns soon after high and low waters. 
 
 Where there is a large tidal basin with a narrow entrance, the 
 strength of the current in the entrance may occur near the time of 
 high and low water, and slack water at about half tide, outside. 
 
 The swiftest current in straight portions of tidal rivers is usually 
 in the mid-channel, but in curved portions the strongest current is 
 toward the outer edge of the curve. 
 
 Counter currents and eddies may occur near the shores of straits, 
 especially in bights and near points. 
 
 TIDE KIPS AND SWIRLS occur in places where strong currents occur, 
 caused by a change in the direction of the current, and especially over 
 shoals or in places where the bottom is uneven. Such places should 
 be avoided if exposed also to a heavy sea, especially with the wind 
 opposing the current; when these conditions are at their worst the 
 water is broken into heavy choppy seas from all directions, which 
 board the vessel, and also make it difficult to keep control, owing to 
 the bearing of the propeller and rudder. 
 
 CURRENT ARROWS on charts show only the usual or mean direction 
 of a tidal stream or current. It must not be assumed that the direc- 
 tion of the current will not vary from that indicated by the arrow. 
 In the same manner, the velocity of the current constantly varies 
 with circumstances, and the rate given on the chart is a mean value, 
 corresponding to an average range of tide. At some stations but few 
 observations have been made. 
 
 FIXING POSITION. The most accurate method available to the 
 navigator of fixing a position relative to the shore is by plotting with 
 
NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 15 
 
 a protractor sextant angles between well-defined objects on the chart; 
 this method, based on the "three-point problem" of geometry, 
 should be in general use. 
 
 In many narrow waters, also, where the objects may yet be at some 
 distance, as in coral harbors or narrow passages among mud banks, 
 navigation by sextant and protractor is invaluable, as a true position 
 can in general be obtained only by its means. Positions by bearings 
 are too rough to depend upon, and a small error in either taking or 
 plotting a bearing might under such circumstances put the ship 
 ashore. 
 
 For its successful employment it is necessary: First, that the ob- 
 jects be well chosen; and, second, that the observer be skillful and 
 rapid in his use of the sextant. The latter is only a matter of 
 practice. 
 
 Near objects should be used either for bearings or angles for posi- 
 tion in preference to distant ones, although the latter may be more 
 prominent, as a small error in the bearing or angle or in laying it on 
 the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer 
 the line to be drawn. 
 
 On the other hand, distant objects should be used for direction 
 because less affected by a small error or change of position. 
 
 The three-arm protractor consists of a graduated circle with one 
 fixed and two movable radial arms. The zero of the graduation is at 
 the fixed arm and by turning the movable arms each one can be set 
 at any desired angle with reference to the fixed arm. 
 
 To plot a position, the two angles observed between the three 
 selected objects are set on the instrument, which is then moved over 
 the chart until the three beveled edges in case of a metal instrument, 
 or the radial lines in the case of a transparent or celluloid instru- 
 ment, pass respectively and simultaneously through the three objects. 
 The center of the instrument will then mark the ship's position, 
 which may be pricked on the chart or marked with a pencil point 
 through the center hole. 
 
 The tracing-paper protractor, consisting of a graduated circle 
 printed on tracing paper, can be used as a substitute for the brass or 
 celluloid instrument. The paper protractor also permits the laying 
 down for simultaneous trial of a number of angles in cases of fixing 
 important positions. Plain tracing paper may also be used if there 
 are any suitable means of laying off the angles. 
 
 The value of a determination depends greatly on the relative posi- 
 tions of the objects observed. If the position sought lies on the circle 
 passing through the three objects it will be indeterminate, as it will 
 plot afl around the circle. An approach to this condition, which is 
 called a revolver, must be avoided. In case of doubt select from the 
 chart three objects nearly in a straight line, or with the middle object 
 nearest the observer. Near objects are better than distant ones, and, 
 in general, up to 90 the larger the angles the better, remembering 
 always that large as well as small angles may plot on or near the circle 
 and hence be worthless. If the objects are well situated, even very 
 small angles will give for navigating purposes a fair position, when 
 that obtained by bearings of the same objects would be of little value. 
 
 Accuracy requires that the two angles be simultaneous. If under 
 way and there is but one observer, the angle that changes less rapidly 
 
16 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 
 
 may be observed both before and after the other angle and the proper 
 value obtained by interpolation. 
 
 A single angle and a range give in general an excellent fix, easily 
 obtained and plotted. 
 
 THE COMPASS. It is not intended that the use of the compass to 
 fix the position should be given up; there are many circumstances 
 in which it may be usefully employed, but errors more readily creep 
 into a position so fixed. Where accuracy of position is desired, 
 angles should invariably be used, such as the fixing of a rock or 
 shoal, or of additions to a chart, as fresh soundings or new build- 
 ings. In such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the 
 more the better; but five objects is a good number, as the four angles 
 thus obtained prevent any errors. 
 
 When only two objects are visible, a sextant angle can be used to 
 advantage with the compass bearings and a better fix obtained than 
 by two bearings alone. 
 
 DOUBLING THE ANGLE ON THE Bow. The method of fixing by 
 doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of 
 it, the so-called "bow and beam bearing," the distance from the 
 object at the latter position being the distance run between the times 
 of taking the two bearings, gives the maximum of accuracy, and is an 
 excellent fix for a departure, but does not insure safety, as the object 
 observed and any dangers off it are abeam before the position is 
 obtained. 
 
 By taking the bearings at two points and four points on the bow, a 
 fair position is obtained before the object is passed, the distance of 
 the latter at the second position being, as before, equal to the distance 
 run in the interval, allowing for current. Taking afterwards the 
 beam bearing gives, with slight additional trouble, the distance of the 
 object when abeam : such beam bearings and distances, with the times, 
 should be continuously recorded as fresh departures, the importance 
 of which will be appreciated in cases of being suddenly shut in by fog. 
 
 A graphic solution of the problem for any two bearings of the same 
 object is frequently used. The two bearings are drawn on the chart, 
 and the course is then drawn by means of the parallel rulers so that 
 the distance measured from the chart between the lines is equal to 
 the distance made good by tiie vessel between the times of taking the 
 bearings. 
 
 DANGER ANGLE. The utility of the danger angle in passing out- 
 lying rocks or dangers should not be forgotten. In employing the 
 horizontal danger angle, however, charts compiled from early Rus- 
 sian and Spanish sources, referred to in a preceding paragraph, 
 should not be used. 
 
 SOUNDINGS. In thick weather, when near, or approaching the land 
 or danger, soundings should be taken continuously and at regular 
 intervals, and, with the character of the bottom, systematically 
 recorded. By marking the soundings on tracing paper, according to 
 the scale of the chart, along a line representing the track of the ship, 
 and then moving the paper over the chart parallel with the course 
 until the observed soundings agree with those of the chart, the ship's 
 position will in general be quite well determined. 
 
 SUMNER'S METHOD. Among astronomical methods of fixing a 
 ship's position the great utility of Sumner's method should be well 
 
NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 17 
 
 understood, and this method should be in constant use. The Sumner 
 line that is, the line drawn through the two positions obtained by 
 working the chronometer observation for longitude with two assumed 
 latitudes, or by drawing through the position obtained with one lati- 
 tude a line at right angles to the bearing of the body as obtained from 
 the azimuth tables gives at times invaluable information, as the 
 ship must be somewhere on that line, provided the chronometer is 
 correct. If directed toward the coast, it marks the bearing of a defi- 
 nite point; if parallel with the coast, the distance of the latter is 
 shown. Thus the direction of the line may often be usefully taken 
 as a course. A sounding at the same time with the observation may 
 often give an approximate position on the line. A very accurate 
 position can be obtained by observing two or more stars at morning 
 or evening twilight, at which time the horizon is well defined. The 
 Sumner lines thus obtained will, if the bearings of the stars differ 
 three points or more, give an excellent result. A star or planet at 
 twilight and the sun afterwards or -before may be combined; also two 
 observations of the sun with sufficient interval to admit of a consid- 
 erable change of bearing. In these cases one of the lines must be 
 moved for the run of the ship. The moon is often visible during the 
 day and in combination with the sun gives an excellent fix. 
 
 CHANGE OF VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. The gradual change 
 in the variation must not be forgotten in laying down positions by 
 bearings on charts. The magnetic compasses placed on the charts 
 for the purpose of facilitating plotting become in time slightly in 
 error, and in some cases, such as with small scales, or when the lines 
 are long, the displacement of position from neglect of this change may 
 be of importance. The compasses are reengraved for every new edi- 
 tion if the error is appreciable. Means for determining the amount of 
 this error are provided by printing the date of constructing the com- 
 pass and the annual change in variation near its edge. 
 
 The change in the magnetic variation in passing along some parts 
 of the coast of the United States is so rapid as to materially affect 
 the course of a vessel unless given constant attention. This is par- 
 ticularly the case in New England and parts of Alaska, where the 
 lines of equal magnetic variation are close together and show rapid 
 changes in magnetic variation from place to place, as indicated by 
 the large differences in variation given on neighboring compass roses. 
 
 LOCAL MAGNETIC DISTURBANCE. The term "local magnetic dis- 
 turbance" or "local attraction" has reference only to the effects on 
 the compass of magnetic masses external to the ship. Observation 
 shows that such disturbance of the compass in a ship afloat is expe- 
 rienced only in a few places. 
 
 Magnetic laws do not permit of the supposition that it is the visible 
 land which causes such disturbance, because the effect of a magnetic 
 force diminishes in such rapid proportion as the distance from it 
 increases that it would require a local center of magnetic force of an 
 amount absolutely unknown to affect a compass half a mile distant. 
 
 Such deflections of the compass are due to magnetic minerals in 
 the bed of the sea under the ship, and when the water is shallow and 
 the force strong the compass may be temporarily deflected when 
 passing over such a spot, but the area of disturbance will be small, 
 unless there are many cen ters near together. 
 
 31056 16 2 
 
18 NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 
 
 The law which has hitherto been found to hold good as regards 
 local magnetic disturbances is that north of the magnetic equator 
 the north end of the compass needle is attracted toward any center 
 of disturbance; south of the magnetic equator it is repelled. 
 
 It is very desirable that whenever an area ol local magnetic dis- 
 turbance is noted the position should be fixed and the facts reported 
 as far as they can be ascertained. 
 
 USE or OIL FOR MODIFYING THE EFFECT OF BREAKING WAVES. 
 Many experiences of late years have shown that the utility of oil for 
 this purpose is undoubted and the application simple. 
 
 The following may serve for the guidance of seamen, whose atten- 
 tion is called to the fact that a very small quantity of oil skillfully 
 applied may prevent much damage both to ships (especially of the 
 smaller classes) and to boats, by modifying the action of breaking 
 seas. 
 
 The principal facts as to the use of oil are as follows: 
 
 1. On free waves i. e., waves in deep water the effect is greatest. 
 
 2. In a surf, or waves breaking on a bar, where a mass of liquid is 
 in actual motion in shallow water, the effect of the oil is uncertain, 
 as nothing can prevent the larger waves from breaking under such 
 circumstances, but even here it is of some service. 
 
 3. The heaviest and thickest oils are most effectual. Kefined 
 kerosene is of little use; crude petroleum is serviceable when nothing 
 else is obtainable; but all animal and vegetable oils, such as waste 
 oil from the engines, have great effect. 
 
 4. A small quantity of oil suffices, if applied in such a manner as to 
 spread to windward. 
 
 5. It is useful in a ship or boat, either when running or lying-to or 
 in wearing. 
 
 6. No experiences are related of its use when hoisting a boat at sea 
 or in a seaway, but it is highly probable that much time would be 
 saved and injury to the boat avoided by its use on such occasions. 
 
 7. In cold water the oil, being thickened by the lower temperature 
 and not being able to spread freely, will have its effect much reduced. 
 This will vary with the character of oil used. 
 
 8. For a ship at sea the best method of application appears to be 
 to hang over the side, in such a manner as to be in the water, small 
 canvas bags, capable of holding from 1 to 2 gallons of oil, the bags 
 being pricked with a sail needle to facilitate leakage of the oil. The 
 ou is also frequently distributed from canvas bags or oakum inserted 
 in the closet bowls. 
 
 The positions of these bags should vary with the circumstances. 
 Running before the wind, they should be hung on either bow e. g., 
 from the cathead and allowed to tow in the water. 
 
 With the wind on the quarter the effect seems to be less than in 
 any other position, as the oil goes astern while the waves come up on 
 the quarter. 
 
 Lying-to, the weather bow and another position farther aft seem 
 the best places from which to hang the bags, using sufficient line to 
 permit them to draw to windward while the ship drifts. 
 
 9. Crossing a bar with a flood tide, to pour oil overboard and allow 
 it to float in ahead of the boat, which would follow with a bag towing 
 astern, would appear to be the best plan. As before remarked, under 
 these circumstances the effect can not be so much trusted. 
 
NAVIGATIONAL AIDS. 19 
 
 On a bar, with the ebb tide running, it would seem to be useless to 
 try oil for the purpose of entering. 
 
 10. For boarding a wreck, it is recommended to pour oil overboard 
 to windward of her before going alongside. The effect in this case 
 must greatly depend upon the set of the current and the circum- 
 stances of the depth of water. 
 
 1 ] . For a boat riding in bad weather from a sea anchor, it is recom- 
 mended to fasten the bag to an endless line rove through a block on 
 the sea anchor, by which means the oil can be diffused well ahead of 
 the boat and the bag readily hauled on board for refilling, if necessary. 
 
COAST WATERS, YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 The information contained in this volume relates to the coast 
 waters from Yakutat Bay to the Arctic Ocean, including the various 
 groups of islands along the south side of the Alaska Peninsula, the 
 Aleutian Islands, Prince William Sound, Cook Inlet, Bristol Bay, 
 and the various other indentations. 
 
 Westward to Cook Inlet the characteristic formation is rocky; the 
 waters in general are deep, but there are also great variations in 
 depth. The visible topographic features, characterized by moun- 
 tainous areas, numerous rugged islands, rocks and reefs, are undoubt- 
 edly duplicated beneath the surface of the water. A safe rule to 
 follow in the navigation of these waters is to avoid all areas where 
 the chart shows great irregularities in depth. 
 
 In Cook Inlet the characteristic formation is the result of glacial 
 action. At low water the shores will be seen strewn with bowlders, 
 some of them of great size, and the soundings indicate that these 
 bowlders also occur in the deeper waters, particularly in areas of hard 
 bottom, where they have not been buried by the subsequent deposit 
 of silt. 
 
 Westward from Cook Inlet, along the south side of the peninsula, 
 throughout the offlying islands, and throughout the entire extent of 
 the Aleutian Islands, the rocky formation above described is again 
 found. 
 
 Bering Sea is characterized in general by shoal waters, with exten- 
 sive sand or mud flats along the shores, particularly in the approaches 
 to the various bays and rivers. There is little rocky formation, and 
 its occurrence, where found, is limited in area. 
 
 Weather. The weather in general is misty or rainy, with fog and 
 frequent blows. It will usually be found that an on-shore wind brings 
 misty weather, and an offshore wind, clearing weather. It will also 
 be found that the weather noticeably improves as one proceeds 
 toward the head of the various inlets. Thus, at the head of Prince 
 William Sound, Cook Inlet, Nushagak Bay, or Kuskokwim Bay, 
 bright clear weather will occur when there is wind and rain at the 
 entrances. The weather is discussed in greater detail under the 
 heading of the various localities. 
 
 Harbors and ports. From Yakutat Bay to Cape St. Elias the coast 
 is open and unbroken, affording no shelter. From this point west- 
 ward to the end of the Aleutian Islands, there are numerous good 
 harbors where vessels may find shelter from any weather. In Bering 
 Sea, northward and eastward of Unimak Pass, the harbors are few 
 and are characterized by shoals in the approaches, so that in the 
 absence of detailed surveys local knowledge is necessary to enter. 
 
 The principal ports are Cordova and Yaldez in Prince William 
 Sound, Seward in Resurrection Bay, Anchorage at the head of Cook 
 20 
 
YAKUT AT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN. 21 
 
 Inlet, Kodiak on Kodiak Island, and St. Michael in Bering Sea. At 
 each of these places there are blacksmith and machine shops where 
 repairs to machinery may be made, and carpenters available for 
 woodwork above water: Similar facilities are available at Nome, 
 but the anchorage is in an open roadstead. 
 
 There are no dry docks or marine railways, but the great range of 
 uide makes it an easy matter to choose a spot at low water for beach- 
 ing a vessel at high water where she will be high and dry at low tide. 
 
 At any of the canneries there are facilities for making minor repairs 
 to machinery. 
 
 Ice will seldom be encountered south of Unimak Pass. It occurs 
 locally where discharged from glaciers, and in winter is formed at 
 the head of the various inlets, but never gets far from its source. Its 
 occurrence, and also the ice in Bering Sea, are discussed in detail 
 under the headings of the various localities. 
 
 Kelp grows on nearly every danger having a rocky bottom, and will 
 be seen on the surface of the wat^r during the summer and autumn 
 months; during the winter and spring it is not always to be seen, 
 especially where it is exposed to a heavy sea. Kelp should always 
 be considered a sign of clanger, and no vessel should pass through it 
 unless the spot has been carefully sounded. There are, however, 
 many rocks not marked by it; a heavy sea will occasionally tear the 
 kelp away from rocks, and a moderate current will ride it under 
 water so that it will not be seen. It is well to note that dead, detached 
 kelp floats on the water in masses, while live kelp attached to rocks 
 streams away level with the surface. 
 
 Pilotage is not compulsory for Alaska except as provided in the 
 United States laws governing the Steamboat-Inspection Service. 
 Vessels making canneries, mines, and other settlements in unsurveyed 
 areas can usually obtain the services of some one with local knowledge, 
 although not a licensed pilot. 
 
 Supplies. Vessels usually obtain their supply of provisions and 
 ship-chandler's stores at California, Washington, and British Columbia 
 ports. The principal towns and settlements in western Alaska can 
 furnish provisions and a limited supply of ship-chandler's stores. 
 Nearly all the canneries and mining settlements carry a limited supply 
 of provisions for sale. (For supplies see also the different headings.) 
 
 Fuel oil is usually obtained from the larger vessels which use it as 
 fuel. Coal can be obtained at Cordova, Kodiak, and Unalaska. It 
 may at times be obtained at other places, but such supply should not 
 be counted on without previous arrangement. 
 
 Naval radio stations are operated at Cordova (Point Whitshed), 
 Kodiak, Unalaska, and St. Paul Island. There is a station at Nome 
 maintained by the United States Army, and many of the canneries 
 are equipped with radio outfits which are in operation during the 
 season. 
 
 TIDES. 
 
 Along the outer coast of Alaska between Yakutat Bay and the 
 western end of Alaska Peninsula the tide is nearly simultaneous, 
 high water occurring near the time of the transit of the moon. 
 Between Yakutat Bay and Cape Whitshed mean high water rises 
 from 9 to 10 feet above the plane of reference. Extreme variations 
 
22 TIDES. 
 
 from 4 feet below to 15 feet above the datum may occasionally be 
 expected. 
 
 Throughout Prince William Sound the tide is practically the same 
 in regard both to time and to height. High water occurs near the 
 time of the transit of the moon, and the mean height of high water is 
 about 11 feet above the plane of reference. Extreme variations from 
 4 feet below to 16 feet above the datum may sometimes occur. 
 
 In Resurrection Bay the rise of tide is about) 1 foot less than in 
 Prince William Sound. 
 
 In passing up Cook Inlet the time and height of the tide changes 
 very rapidly. At Fire Island the tide is about five hours later than 
 at Port Chatham. At Anchorage in Knik Arm it is about one-half 
 hour later, and at Sunrise in Turnagain Arm about one hour later 
 than at Fire Island. The height of mean high water above the plane 
 of reference varies from about 13 feet in the vicinity of Port Chatham 
 tg 30 feet in Knik Arm and 33 feet in the eastern part of Turnagain 
 Arm. Variations from 6 feet below the plane of reference to 6 feet 
 above mean high water may occasionally occur. The mean range of 
 tide on the west side of Cook Inlet is less than it is on the east coast, 
 the difference being as great as 3 feet at the widest part of the inlet. 
 
 On the eastern side of Kodiak Island the height of mean high water 
 is about 9 feet above the plane of reference, but in Shelikof Strait 
 the mean high w^ater rises from 13 to 14 feet above the datum. 
 Extreme variations from 4 feet below to 1 4 feet above the datum on 
 the eastern side and from 4 feet below to 18 feet above the datum 
 on the western side of the island will occasionally occur. In Shelikof 
 Strait the tide will occur about 15 minutes later than on the eastern 
 side of the island. 
 
 From Kodiak Island to the westward the range of tide diminishes 
 rapidly. In the vicinity of the Shumagin and Sannak Islands the 
 mean high water is approximately 6 feet above the plane of reference. 
 There is, however, very little difference in the time of the tide until 
 the western end of the Alaska Peninsula is reached. 
 
 Around the Aleutian Islands the tide is very irregular and at times 
 becomes diurnal. The mean high-water interval varies from zero to 
 four hours, and the mean rise of tide from 2 to 6 feet above the datum. 
 
 At the Pribilof Islands, St. Matthew Island, and St. Lawrence 
 Island, in the Bering Sea, the tide is small and irregular > the mean 
 rise being less than 4 feet above the datum. 
 
 In Bristol Bay the range of tide increases very rapidly in passing 
 toward the head of the bay. At Port Moller the mean rise is 9}| 
 feel above the datum, and at Clark Point, Nushagak Bay, it is 18 
 feet. At the latter place the tide occurs approximately five hours 
 later than at Port Moller. 
 
 In Kuskokwim Bay the height of mean high water above the plane 
 of reference increases from 7 feet at Goodnews Bay entrance to 10J^ 
 feet off Warehouse Creek and then diminishes to 2^ feet at Bethel. 
 At Apokak the tide occurs nearly five hours later than at Goodnews 
 Bay entrance, and at Bethel it is about five and one-half hours later 
 than at Apokak. The range of tide is greater on the east side than 
 it is on the west side of the bay, the difference being about 1 foot in 
 the vicinity of Apokak. 
 
YAKUTAT BAY TO ARCTIC OCEAN'. 23 
 
 In Norton Sound the tide is generally small and irregular and 
 during a large part of the time diurnal. The mean rise and fall is 
 about 3 feet. 
 
 In the vicinity of Bering Strait the tide is too small to be of prac- 
 tical importance. 
 
 Along the Bering Sea coast of Alaska extreme tides, varying from 
 3 feet below the plane of reference to 6 feet above mean high water, 
 may occur occasionally. 
 
 For more detailed information concerning the tides in Alaska, 
 the General or Pacific Coast Tide Tables for the current year should 
 be consulted. These are published annually in advance by the 
 United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, and may be obtained 
 from the office or from any of the agencies of this Bureau on receipt 
 of the price, which is 50 cents for the general tables and 10 cents for 
 the Pacific Coast reprint. 
 
 CURRENTS. 
 
 A prevailing current sets northward and westward along the 
 coast of British Columbia and Alaska. The distance it extends 
 offshore is not known, but it is believed to be strongest near the 
 coast and inside of the 100-fathom curve. 
 
 The estimated velocity of the current is to 1^ knots, and is 
 greatly affected by strong winds. In winter, with strong northerly 
 and westerly winds prevailing in the Gulf of Alaska, it is probable 
 that the current is stopped, and there may be a set in the reverse 
 direction. No systematic observations have been made, but the 
 following sample reports indicate what may be expected: 
 
 Capt. J. A. O'Brien, of the steamer Northwestern, reports that 
 from February to May, 1911, during six round trips between Cape 
 Flattery and Cape St. Elias his log showed an average of 977 miles 
 northbound and 1,104 miles southbound, an average current of 
 63.5 miles for the run of about 1,040 miles. On each of the six 
 voyages he found a strong set toward the coast between Cape Cook, 
 Vancouver Island, and Cape St. James, Queen Charlotte Islands, 
 and between the northwest end of Queen Charlotte Islands and. 
 Sitka. Between Cape Flattery and Cape Cook an average of over 
 40 voyages indicated a northwesterly current with a velocity of 1.5 
 knots in winter and about nil in summer. 
 
 On May 1, 1910, on a run from Ocean Cape to Cape St. Elias with 
 light easterly winds, a vessel with a speed of 8.1 miles by log was 
 set in 13.5 hours about 28.5 miles in a 291 true (W % S mag.) 
 direction by the coast current, the average velocity of which was 
 2.1 knots. Land was made on the eastern side of Kayak Island 7 
 miles northward of the projected course. This report shows the 
 necessity for using caution in approaching Cape St. Elias from 
 southeastward, as 'the prevailing northwesterly current will cause 
 the vessel to be ahead of her reckoning. 
 
 Surveying parties report a constant set southwestward along the 
 coast of Hinchinbrook Island. 
 
 A constant set southwestward is reported along the east coast of 
 Montague Island and south coast of Kenai Peninsula. A whaleboat 
 lost off Wooded Islands was washed ashore on Cape Douglas and a spar 
 lost off Point Gore was found on the northwest side of Sitkinak 
 
24 CURRENTS. 
 
 Island. The velocity is not known, but has been reported to be 
 1 knot or more at times. 
 
 Currents of the Alaska Peninsula Westward of Kodiak. It seems clear 
 from all reports that the Japan current does not touch the shores of 
 the Alaska Peninsula; and there is doubt if it touches even the south- 
 ernmost of Che Aleutian Islands. It is even disputed that this current 
 is found at all this far eastward ; no such warm water can be found as 
 that of the Gulf Stream, but a fairly definite stream of slightly 
 warmer water can generally be found. This stream is well offshore 
 and far out of sight of land; the current phenomena met with in the 
 vicinity of the coast have no connection with it. 
 
 It is generally agreed that there is a continual current of con- 
 siderable strength following the coast all the way from Shelikof 
 Strait to Unalaska Island. It has been called a warm current 
 originating in the Gulf of Alaska, and it doubtless assists in causing 
 the southern side of the peninsula to be warmer than Bering Sea. 
 It is well known that all the islands off this coast have a milder 
 climate than the mainland; the inhabitants choose the islands and 
 almost the entire population is found on them in preference to the 
 mainland shore. This current searches out all the passages, large 
 and small, between and around the many islands, and in some of 
 them it becomes strong enough to be important. The tide has little 
 effect upon it, for the tide sets generally on and offshore, while this 
 current sets along the coast. For this reason a vessel generally finds 
 it setting her ahead or back along the course and not to one side. An 
 approaching northeast storm gives warning by strengthening this 
 current; in many places the current will indicate northeast weather 
 a day before the barometer falls. It may be that on some occasions 
 this current turns in the other direction on its offshore side, near the 
 100-fathom curve, but this is not frequent, and there are no reports 
 that it turns in the inshore part near the land. It has been supposed 
 that the strong currents of Unimak, Akutan, and Unalga Passes are 
 due to this current deflected into the passes and strengthened by a 
 rising tide. It is reported by all that the strongest currents are 
 found entering Bering Sea in these passes and that the currents flow- 
 ing out are always weaker. 
 
 In the Aleutian Island passages, as far as Attu, reports agree that 
 the currents almost always flow into Bering Sea. There are many 
 reports of strong currents in all the passages in this direction, and 
 almost none in the opposite direction. These currents are not to be 
 regarded as branches of the Japan stream, for the water temperatures 
 do not show a warm current; but it is agreed that they carry much 
 small animal and plant life to the shores of the islands and into Bering 
 Sea. Southward of the Aleutian Islands there is often a current 
 toward them and toward all the passes; but farther offshore, well out 
 of sight of land, the Japan stream is found setting eastward. 
 
 Along the northern side of the islands, on a line from Unalaska to 
 Attu, it is agreed that the current sets eastward, and is not influenced 
 by tide. But in all this region and in Bering Sea the normal currents 
 may be disturbed by bad weather, and will then set with the wind or 
 toward a low barometer; an abnormal current may often be a valuable 
 storm warning. In all the Aleutian Islands the navigator must heed 
 the currents carefully; a vessel is in more danger there from that 
 cause than from any other, except the lack of surveys. 
 
CURRENTS. 25 
 
 The currents of Bristol Bay are usually considered as partly tidal. 
 Here, also, a northeast storm disguises all other effects and causes a 
 strong current to sweep out of the bay. In normal weather the tidal 
 currents set on and onshore and more or less in and out of the bay, 
 and become more important as the water shoals; the local effects 
 in places are pronounced. Beside the tidal currents, it is considered 
 that Bristol Bay forms the eastern side of a permanent eddy which 
 enters past Cape Newenham flowing eastwara and discharges along 
 the north shore of Unimak Island flowing westward. On the Bering 
 Sea side of Unimak Pass it is generally found that there is a current 
 flowing northwest. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, YAKUTAT BAY TO KODIAK. 
 
 From Cape St. Elias to the head of Cook Inlet and southward to 
 Chiniak Bay, Cape Karluk, and Takli Island, and from Cape Ikti to 
 Unalaska, the principal points jdong the coast are determined by 
 triangulation, and accurate courses and distances for coasting along 
 those sections can be taken from charts 8502 and 8802 (1915 edi- 
 tion). Some of the bays and arms are not surveyed, and their 
 delineation on the chart is taken from the sketches of the early 
 navigators adjusted to known points determined by later surveys. 
 
 Vessels approaching Prince William Sound from southeastward 
 generally make Cape St. Elias and pass 2 miles or more southward 
 of Southeast Rock. On page 30 bearings and distances are given 
 from Southeast Rock to the principal coast points of Southeast 
 Alaska. A current, constant so far as known, sets northwestward 
 and westward along the coast of Alaska. This current is increased 
 by southeast winds and decreased by northwest winds, but its esti- 
 mated velocity under ordinary conditions is about % knot. This 
 should be kept in mind, especially when approaching Cape St. Elias 
 from southeastward, as a vessel will generally overrun her log when 
 bound westward. (See also the remarks on currents preceding.) 
 
 Cape St. Elias to Cape Hinchinbrook. From a position 2 miles 
 southward of Southeast Rock a 295 true (W J^.S mag.) course 
 made good for 67 miles will lead to a position lj miles southward 
 of Cape Hinchinbrook. 
 
 An examination of the logs of several courses between Cape St. 
 Elias and Cape Hinchinbrook indicates that the currents are in- 
 fluenced by the tides, being stronger with the larger tides, and that 
 the current on the ebb has frequently, but not always, caused a 
 southerly set, and the current on the flood a northerly set. On 
 some occasions when the range of the tides was small no marked 
 set of current was noted. Results seem to point to a stronger cur- 
 rent toward Cape St. Elias than Cape Hinchinbrook. Surveying 
 parties report a constant set southwestward along the coast of 
 Hinchinbrook Island, and the probability of a constant westerly 
 set from Cape St. Elias to Cape Hinchinbrook should be kept in 
 mind. Strong tidal currents were noticed across the reef at Cape 
 St. Elias. At Middleton Island the tidal currents have a velocity 
 of 2 to 3 knots, setting northward on the flood and southward on 
 the ebb. 
 
 Prince William Sound. Vessels from southeastward enter Prince 
 William Sound through Hinchinbrook Entrance, and leave the 
 
26 YAKUTAT BAY TO KODIAK DIRECTIONS. 
 
 sound through Ellington Passage when bound southwestward. 
 The principal ports of call are Cordova and Valdez. Directions for 
 Orca Bay to Cordova are given on page 43. Directions for the 
 sound from Hinchinbrook Entrance and Latouche Passage to Valdez 
 are given on page 50. Directions for Elrington Passage are given 
 on page 68. 
 
 Elrington Passage to Resurrection Bay. Having come from 
 Elrington Passage to a position 3 miles 168 true (SE ^ S mag.) 
 from "Cape Puget, steer 263 true (SW by W mag.) for 26 miles, 
 passing 2 miles off Cape Junken. The south end of Rugged Island 
 should be ahead, and the course and distance made good should 
 lead to a position 1 mile 173 true (SE by S mag.) from Barwell 
 Island off Cape Resurrection. Then follow the directions for entering 
 Resurrection Bay from eastward. 
 
 Elrington Passage to Seal Rocks. Having come from Elrington 
 Passage to a position 3 miles 168 true (SE }/% S mag.) from Cape 
 Puget, a 235 true (SSW j/ W mag.) course made good for 43 miles 
 will lead to a position 3 miles 150 true (SE by E mag.) from Seal 
 Rocks. 
 
 There is little information about the currents between Cape Cleare 
 and Seal Rocks. When out of the bight of the coast between these 
 points a southwesterly set may be experienced. The principal 
 flood and ebb current to and from Prince 1 William Sound westward 
 of Montague Island is through Montague Strait. 
 
 The passage between Seal Rocks and Chiswell Islands is nearly 
 3 miles wide and is frequently used by vessels between Resurrection 
 Bay and the coast southwestward. In thick weather or at night, 
 and also when vessels are standing along the coast and not entering 
 Resurrection Bay, it is better to pass outside of Seal Rocks. 
 
 Seal Rocks to East Chugach Island. From a position 3 miles 150 
 true (SE by E mag.) from Seal Rocks, make good a 245 true (SW 
 Yi S mag.) course for 26 miles to a position 3^2 miles 155 true 
 (SE Yz E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island; Pye Island 
 Reef should then bear 296 true (W mag.) distant 2^ miles. Or 
 vessels from Resurrection Bay going inside Seal Rocks, pass \y% to 
 2 miles southeastward of the easterly Chiswell Island and make good 
 a 236 true (SSW Y% W mag.) course for 30 miles, passing 1 to 1^ 
 miles northwestward of Seal Rocks and to a position 3^ miles 155 
 true (SE y 2 E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island. 
 
 From a position 3^2 miles 155 true (SE ^ E mag.) from the peak 
 of the outer Pye Island, make good a 246 true (SW % S mag.) 
 course for 35 ^ miles, passing 2 miles off Point Gore, 1% miles off 
 the sunken rock nearly midway between Point Gore and East Chu- 
 gach Island, and to a position with the southeast point of East 
 Chugach Island bearing on the starboard beam, 336 true (NW % 
 W mag.) distant 3 miles. 
 
 Under ordinary conditions the current may be expected to set 
 southwestward along the coast, but its rate is not known. It is 
 reported that the flood current sets strongly southwestward toward 
 Cook Inlet, while the ebb current is almost negligible. When cross- 
 ing the entrances to the larger bays, the tidal current setting to or 
 from them will be noticed. 
 
YAKUTAT BAY TO KODIAK DIRECTIONS. 27 
 
 In 1908 a breaker in a heavy sea was reported about 9 miles 177 
 true (SSE J/ E mag.) from the southeast point of East Chugach 
 Island. 
 
 East Chugach Island to entrance of Cook Inlet. The following is 
 the usual route followed by large vessels. The smaller vessels, espe- 
 cially with local knowledge, frequently go through the passage inside 
 Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. Directions for this passage are given 
 on page 78. 
 
 From a position 3 miles 156 true (SE % E mag.) from the south- 
 east point of East Chugach Island, make good a 269 4rue (SW by 
 W % W mag.) course for 15 miles, passing 2 miles off the southeast 
 bare rock near Pearl Island, the same distance southward of Dora 
 Reef, and to a position with Cape Elizabeth bearing on the starboard 
 beam 359 true (NNW M W mag.), distant 5J^ miles. Then follow 
 the directions for Cook Inlet. 
 
 The tidal currents in the entrance of Cook Inlet have great velocity, 
 especially among and around Chugach and Barren Islands and off 
 the north end of Shuyak Island. " With the large tides, rips dangerous 
 to small craft occur in the channels among the islands and in the 
 wake of many projecting points. With an ebb current of the large 
 tides and easterly winds, a very heavy sea and tide rips will be found 
 in mid-channel on either side of Barren Islands. 
 
 From Pearl Island nearly to Seldovia and southward in the entrance 
 of Cook Inlet the tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 3 to 5 
 knots at strength, and care will be required to make courses good. 
 
 Cook Inlet to Kodiak. The usual route is through Marmot Strait. 
 With heavy easterly weather vessels sometimes go down Shelikof 
 Strait and pass eastward through Kupreanof Strait. 
 
 From a position 1J/2 miles westward of Flat Island steer 185 true 
 (S by E % E mag.) for 24 miles to a midchannel position between 
 the northeast end of Ushagat Island and the southwest end of West 
 Amatuli Island. 
 
 Then steer 170 true (SE by S mag.) for 36 miles to a position 
 \Y miles off a point 1V miles southeastward of Tonki Cape. Then 
 steer 180 true (SSE y% E mag.) for about 4Vo miles to a position 
 about 1J/4 miles off a prominent point on the western shore; the 
 northern end of Marmot Island should then bear about 80 true 
 (NEbyEmag.). 
 
 Then steer 203 true (S l /% E mag.) giving the western shore of 
 Marmot Strait a berth of about 1 mile; the distance to Pillar Cape 
 abeam is 8^2 miles. Continue the course across Marmot Bay, 
 passing 3 miles eastward of Spruce Island and the same distance 
 westward of Williams Reef. The eastern end of Woody ^ Island 
 should be made ahead, and the course made good for 28 miles, or 
 19 1/2 miles from Pillar Cape abeam, will le'ad to a position J/2 mile 
 eastward of Hutch inson Reef bell buoy. Then enter St. Paul 
 Harbor on one of the ranges for the northern entrance. 
 
 See tidal currents in the entrance of Cook Inlet above. In Marmot 
 Strait the tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 1 to 3 knots, 
 the flood current setting northward and the ebb southward. 
 
28 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 
 
 YAKUTAT BAY TO CAPE ST. ELIAS. 
 
 Point Manby is low and wooded for about 4 miles back to Malas- 
 pina Glacier. 
 
 Sitkagi Bluffs are about 4 miles long, and are formed by Malas- 
 pina Glacier, which at the bluffs comes down to high-water mark, 
 but does not discharge into the sea. From Sitkagi Bluffs the glacier 
 recedes from the coast about 4 miles up the Yahtse and Yana Rivers, 
 and then comes to the coast again at Icy Cape. 
 
 Icy Bay has been formed by the recession of an arm ot Malaspina 
 Glacier,- which discharges in the bay; there are large quantities of 
 drift ice, at least during the summer. Dep'hs of 6 to 8 fathoms 
 extend in places about 5 miles off the entrance. The entrance 
 points are low spits, and the depths between them and in the bay 
 are not known. The west side of Icy Bay appears to be shallow for 
 a distance of at least Y^ mile from shore, judging by the stranding 
 of comparatively small bergs. Smaller ice masses are generally so 
 packed along the shores that boats would find it difficult to make a 
 landing, especially as the ice grinds together when moved by the ocean 
 swell which enters the bay. 
 
 From Icy Bay to Cape Suckling the beach is remarkably even, 
 with no irregularities except Umbrella Reef and Yakataga Reef. 
 There are numerous small streams, the larger ones with lagoons and 
 shallow bars at the entrance. The streams are dangerous to cross 
 because of quicksand in places in their shifting channels. The coast 
 is low and wooded and backed by ice fields and glaciers. 
 
 Umbrella Reef, 13 miles east of Yakataga Reef, is a narrow ledge 
 y% mile wide and % m ^ e l n g parallel with the shore. Little of it 
 shows above high water. 
 
 Yakataga Reef extends about ^ mile from shore at Cape Yaka- 
 taga, and parts of it show above high water. This is the best landing 
 place between Icy Bay and Controller Bay, but landing is possible 
 only under exceptional conditions of a smooth sea. There are a few 
 houses. 
 
 Mount St. Elias is 18,025 feet high, and at the top is a massive 
 pyramid with a shoulder on each side as seen from southward. 
 
 Cape Suckling is low and wooded. Lying 2 miles northwestward 
 of the cape and 1 mile inland is the end of a prominent mountain 
 ridge which extends about 8 miles in a northeasterly direction, with 
 elevations of 1,500 to 2,500 feet. 
 
 Three bluffs about 100 feet high lie 1J^ to 2% miles westward of 
 Cape Suckling. From the eastern bluff a sunken reef extends y% 
 mile southwestward to three rocks, close together and bare at low 
 water. 
 
 Southwest Breaker is on a rock bare at low water, and lies 2 miles 
 212 true (S J4 W mag.) from the western bluff mentioned in the 
 preceding paragraph, and 3% miles 260 true (SW }^ W mag.) from 
 Cape Suckling. 
 
 Okalee Spit, forming the south side of Controller Bay, is low, bare 
 sand dunes, 7 miles long in an east and west (true) direction. 
 
 The entrance to Controller Bay between the north end of Kayak 
 Island and Okalee Spit is of little use except for small craft or very 
 small vessels that can cross the flats eastward of Wingham Island. 
 
YAKUTAT BAY TO CAPE ST. ELIAS. 29 
 
 Two prominent rocks about 75 feet high lie outside the entrance, 
 miles northeastward of Lemesurier Point and 1J4 miles south- 
 ward of Okalee Spit. They are connected by ledges bare at low water, 
 which also extend about 300 yards eastward and westward from 
 them. The group is prolonged by shoals, which shelve off to 18 feet 
 in a distance of % mile 299 true (W mag.) from the western rock 
 and to 16 feet a little over H mile 82 true (NE % E mag.) from the 
 eastern rock. 
 
 From the shoal surrounding the rocks a rocky bar with 17 to 19 
 feet over it extends 1)4 miles eastward on the range of the two rocks, 
 and then with 19 to 21 feet over it curves northeastward and joins 
 the shoal with 16 to 18 feet over it that extends about 1 J4 miles from 
 Okalee Spit. This bar is open to the sea from eastward and south- 
 ward. The channel to this entrance of Controller Bay is over this 
 bar with a least depth of 17 to 19 feet and then passes between 
 Okalee Spit and the two rocks. 
 
 From Lemesurier Point (northeast end of Kayak Island) foul ground 
 with 13 feet over its outer half extends nearly to the shoal surround- 
 ing the two high rocks. There is little depth near Lemesurier Point, 
 and it shelves off to 10 feet in a distance of y% mile toward the two 
 rocks. 
 
 From northward of the two high rocks the channel has depths of 
 5 to 7 fathoms until about 1 mile inside the north end of Kayak 
 Island. It then leads between flats to Kayak Entrance with a least 
 width of y mile and depth of 18 feet. The best depth that can be 
 carried across the flats in Controller Bay eastward of Wingham Island 
 is 6 feet at low water. 
 
 Kayak Island is 17 J^ miles long, has peaks 1,200 to 1,400 feet high, 
 and slopes gradually to its northern part, which is low and wooded. 
 Cape St. Elias, the south end of Kayak Island, is an important and 
 unmistakable landmark. It is a precipitous, sharp, rocky ridge, 
 about 1 mile long and 1,665 feet high, with a low, wooded neck 
 between it and the high parts of the island farther north. About % 
 mile off the cape is the remarkable Pinnacle Rock, 494 feet high. A 
 light is maintained on Pinnacle Rock pending the completion of a 
 lighthouse on the cape. 
 
 Boats can generally land on the south side of Cape St. Elias just 
 eastward of a small point which extends toward Pinnacle Rock. The 
 better approach is from westward, keeping close to the island to clear 
 a ledge which extends J4 mile northwestward from Pinnacle Rock. 
 
 The eastern coast of Kayak Island is strewn with bowlders and land- 
 ing is impracticable. Rocky shoals with 11 feet over them lie 1% 
 miles 172 true (SE % S mag.) from Lemesurier Point. Lying 3J4 
 miles southward of the point and 1 mile offshore is a reef ^ mile 
 long. Its northern end is a rock 10 feet high, and its south end is 
 bare at half tide. For a distance of 6 miles northward of Cape St. 
 Elias bowlders bare at low water and breakers extend % mile ff 
 the eastern coast of the island. 
 
 Breakers extend 2 miles southeastward of Cape St. Elias to South- 
 east Rock, which is awash, the breakers extending % mile southwest- 
 ward of the line joining them. There is a depth of 20 fathoms about 
 ^8 mile outside these breakers. A ridge with 10 to 15 fathoms over 
 it, which has not been closely developed, extends 1 y^ miles southwest- 
 ward from Southeast Rock. The 50-fathom curve lies about 7 miles 
 
30 YAKUTAT BAY TO CAPE ST. ELIAS. 
 
 southwestward and westward of Southeast Rock, but is only y^ mile 
 southeastward of it. The tidal currents have considerable velocity 
 across the reef. 
 
 Eastward of this reef another reef on which the sea breaks extends 
 l}/2 miles from Kayak Island, the end of the reef lying about 1% 
 miles northward from Southeast Rock. 
 
 The following are computed bearings and distances from Southeast 
 Rock: 
 
 Entrance to Monti Bay, Yakutat, 94]^ true (NE by E % 
 
 E mag.), 145 miles. 
 
 Cape Spencer, 111 true (E % N mag.), 263 miles. 
 Klokachef Point, Salisbury Sound, 117J true (E J^ N 
 
 Northerly mag.), 307 miles. 
 
 Cape Edgecumbe, 121 true (E ^ S mag.), 321 miles. 
 Cape Ommaney, 124 true (E % S mag.), 383 miles. 
 Summit of Forrester Island, 130 true (E by S easterly mag.), 
 
 467 miles. 
 Cape Hinchinbrook, 295 true (W % S southerly mag.), 67 
 
 miles. 
 
 Sea Ranger Reef is two shoals lying off a point on the western coast 
 of Kayak Island 3M miles northward of Cape St. Elias. The inner 
 one lies J^ to 1 ^ miles from shore, has 11 feet over it, is % mile long, 
 and the sea often breaks on it. The outer shoal is small, lies 1^ 
 miles from shore, has a least depth of 24 feet, and there is seldom a 
 break on it. Tide rips occur around it at times. 
 
 The tidal currents on the western side of Kayak Island set north- 
 ward on the flood and southward on the ebb, with an estimated 
 velocity at strength of y^ to % mile. 
 
 From the high bluff point on Kayak Island 3^ miles south of 
 Wingham Island a shoal with 13 feet near its end extends % mile 
 northward; and rocky patches on which the least depths found are 
 12 to 15 feet extend to Wingham Island. Anchorage can be made by 
 small craft in the bight northward of the point, % to 1 }/% miles from 
 the point and ^ to 1 mile from shore, in 4 to 5 fathoms, bottom soft 
 in places, with shelter from easterly and southeasterly winds. Vessels 
 should anchor farther out in not less than 10 fathoms, with the south- 
 oast end of Wingham Island bearing about 48 true (N by E % E 
 mag.). 
 
 CONTROLLER BAY 
 
 is formed by Okalee Spit and Kayak Island on the south and Wing- 
 ham and Kanak Islands on the west. For some distance back from 
 the eastern shore the land is but slightly above high water, and is 
 broken by many streams. Quicksand has been found in the channel 
 at the mouth of Edwardes River. The bay is filled by flats between 
 which are two principal channels, one from Kayak Entrance to the 
 northern end of Kayak Island, and Okalee Channel. 
 
 Kayak Entrance, between Kayak and Wingham Islands, is rocky 
 and foul, there being numerous lumps on which the least depth found 
 is about 12 feet. The channel with a depth of about 12 feet is J^ 
 mile wide between a sand spit, largely bare at low water, extending 1 
 mile off the southwest side of the low wooded spit on the northwest 
 side of Kayak Island, and a reef, partly bare at low water, extending 
 350 yards southeastward from the southeast end of Wingham Island. 
 The approach is lumpy, with numerous rocky spots of 2 to 3 fathoms 
 
CONTROLLER BAY. 31 
 
 inside the 5-fathom curve. The latter is about on a line from the 
 southwest point of Wingham Island to the high bluff point on Kayak 
 Island 3^2 miles 201 true (S % E mag.) from it. A reef, partly bare 
 at low water, extends 600 yards southward from the southeast point 
 of Wingham Island. 
 
 The following directions lead in the best water through Kavak 
 Entrance, but trie entrance should be used with caution and at high 
 water only. 
 
 Steer for the end of the low wooded spit on the northwest side of 
 Kayak Island on a 60 true (NNE % E mag.) course until the south- 
 east tangent of Wingham Island bears 6 true (NNWmag.). Then 
 steer 18 true (N by W mag.) and give Wingham Island a berth of 350 
 yards. 
 
 Anchorage can be made about 250 yards northeastward of the 
 point of Wingham Island just southeastward of Kavak, in 3 fathoms, 
 or a short distance southeastward of this position, in depths up to 4 
 fathoms, bottom soft in places. Good anchorage may also be selected 
 anywhere in the channel from tKe southeast end of Wingham Island 
 to the northern end of Kayak Island, for which chart 8513 and the 
 lead are the guides. There is some local chop with strong winds, but 
 no outside swell enters the bay either through Kayak Entrance or 
 around the northern end of Kayak Island. 
 
 Kayak, on the east side of Wingham Island, % ndle horn its 
 southeast end, is abandoned. 
 
 Wingham Island is 4 miles long and wooded, and has three hills, 
 the highest, near its northern end, haying an elevation of 832 feet. 
 The western shore of the island is precipitous. 
 
 With heavy easterly winds anchorage and shelter can be found in 
 16 to 18 fathoms % to J/ m ^ e from the western side of Wingham 
 Island, abreast its middle and lowest part. 
 
 Small vessels can anchor in the narrow channel close to the eastern 
 side of Wingham Island. This channel is about 300 yards wide and 
 extends nearly 2 miles southward from the northern end of the 
 island, with depths of 7 to 12 fathoms for 1 mile and then shoals 
 gradually southward. The flats on the eastern edge of the channel 
 have depths of 7 to 11 feet and are generally steep-to. The mid- 
 channel leads about 200 yards from the island. A depth of 6 feet 
 at low water can be carried through close to the island to Kayak 
 Entrance. At times the tidal currents have a velocity of 3 knots or 
 more in places in the narrow channel eastward of Wingham Island. 
 A shoal extends about 200 yards off the middle of the northern end 
 of the island. 
 
 Okalee Channel, between the north end of Wingham Island and 
 Kanak Island, is % mile wide, with depths of 6 fathoms at the 
 entrance, and these depths or more can be taken through the greater 
 part of the channel. The channel is a secure harbor, but is little used 
 in the absence of aids. The entrance is marked by buoys. 
 
 The shoal on the southeast side of the channel 1^ miles north- 
 eastward from the northern end of Wingham Island is bare shortly 
 after high water, and this shoal and the one on the opposite side of 
 the channel arc generally partly indicated by breakers, especially at 
 low water. The shoal extending southward from Kanak Island is 
 mostly well out at low water. Above these shoals the flats border- 
 ing Okalee Channel are partly bare at low water only, and there is 
 
32 CONTROLLER BAY. 
 
 nothing to indicate the channel when the flats are covered. On the 
 edges of the channel the shoaling is abrupt except at the entrance 
 and on the southeast side where it changes direction southeastward 
 of Kanak Island. 
 
 Vessels sometimes anchor in Okalee Channel about 2 miles above 
 the northern end of Wingham Island. This part of the channel is 
 generally easy of access in clear weather. Above this point Okalee 
 Channel should be navigated at low water only, in the absence of 
 aids or local knowledge, and extra care is required to keep in the 
 channel. Chart 8513 and the lead are the guides. 
 
 Kanak Island is 3^ miles long, very low and flat, and wooded in 
 the middle. There is a large low tank at the south end of the island- 
 An extensive shoal makes out southwcstward from the island, 
 about 3 miles from its southeast end and 2 miles from its northwest 
 end. The southern edge of the shoal passes about 1 mile northwest- 
 ward from the northern end "of Wingham Island. When off the 
 southwest side of Kanak Island, vessels should keep in over 5 fathoms 
 (low water). The range of the north ends of Wingham and Kayak 
 Islands, bearing 119 true (E mag.), leads clear southward of the 
 shoal. 
 
 The passage between Kanak Island and Strawberry Point is used 
 only by boats and launches at high water. 
 
 Point Hey is a projecting and prominent high, narrow point on the 
 northwest side of Controller Bay 1 mile northward of Kanak Island. 
 
 Weather. During the summer the prevailing winds are easterly 
 with rain, and this is the direction from which the heaviest weather 
 comes. Westerly winds are infrequent during the summer, and 
 generally light. Fog was rare and cleared off before noon. 
 
 Tides. High and low water occur 27 minutes later than at Sitka, 
 and the rise and fall of tides is the same. 
 
 The tidal currents set into Controller Bay through all the entrances 
 on the flood and out on the ebb. In Kayak Entrance the ebb has 
 greater velocity than the flood, and it is estimated that the greatest 
 velocity at strength does not exceed 3 knots. Tide rips occur at 
 times in the channel abreast the southern end of Wingham Island. 
 The velocity of the current in the channel north of Kayak Island 
 does not exceed 2 knots. 
 
 In Okalee Channel, from observations taken, the flood current 
 was found to attain an ordinary maximum velocity of 1.65 knots 
 1 hour and 45 minutes before the time of high water at Sitka, and 
 the ebb a velocity of 1.95 knots 1 hour and 45 minutes before the 
 time of low water at Sitka. Small tide rips occur when the wind is 
 against the current. The tidal currents have some velocity around 
 the north end of Wingham Island. 
 
 KATALLA BAY, 
 
 twenty- three miles northward from Cape St. Elias, is included 
 between Strawberry Point on the east and Martin Islands on the 
 west, a distance of 5 miles, and indents the coast about 2 miles to 
 the mouth of Katalla River. The bay is a roadstead anchorage 
 sheltered from offshore winds, but exposed to winds from southeast, 
 south, and southwest. 
 
 Strawberry Point is low and bare at the end and wooded toward the 
 foot of the hill. There is a prominent hill on the point with a low 
 
KATALLA BAY. 33 
 
 break between it and the higher land northward. A shoal with little 
 water over it, and on which the sea generally breaks at low water, 
 extends nearly 1 Yi miles southward from the point. 
 
 The northeastern shore of the bay from Strawberry Point to the 
 mouth of the Katalla River is a steep sand beach. The north- 
 western shore from Katalla to Martin Islands is foul and should be 
 given a berth of about % mile. 
 
 Palm Point is \Yi miles southwestward of Katalla. There are a 
 number of buildings of a railroad camp just northward of the point. 
 A bowlder reef, bare at low water, extends % mile southward from it. 
 
 Martin Islands are two in number, about 60 feet high, have steep 
 rocky sides, and lie ^ to 1 mile from shore. The northern island is 
 joined to the shore by a flat, bare at extreme low water. There is an 
 abandoned radio station on the northern island. 
 
 Katalla is a post office on the northern side of the bay and on the 
 western side of the mouth of Katalla River. There is a landing for 
 lighters, which were towed over the bar except at low water. The 
 bar at the mouth of the river has^a depth of about 3 feet at low water, 
 and the sea generally breaks on it. The entrance, which is narrow 
 and rocky, requires local knowledge. With a smooth sea, lighters 
 formerly landed also in the bight on the northeast side of Palm 
 Point. There is always some surf on the beach, and with south- 
 easterly or southwesterly winds landing is impracticable. Goods 
 are discharged by means of a lighter. The necessary towing is done 
 by launches. 
 
 On the east branch of Katalla River about 3 miles from Katalla 
 there are oil works which supply local boats with oil, gasolene, and 
 distillate. The depth in the river is ample for boats that can cross 
 the bar. 
 
 The boiler of the wreck of the Portland can be seen at a good low 
 water. It has not been accurately located, but it is reported to lie in 
 the vicinity of the 5-fathorn curve as shown on the chart, about 1 mile 
 northeastward of Palm Point. Shoals make out on both sides of the 
 river mouth to the wreck. 
 
 The anchorage in the bay is from 1 Yi to 2 miles southward of Katalla 
 in 6 to 7 Yi fathoms, with the eastern end of the town bearing be- 
 tween 17 true (N. by W. mag.) and 355 true (NW. by N. mag.). 
 The bottom is hard sand but the holding ground is generally good. 
 There are no dangers if the shore be given a berth of over J4 mile, 
 but the wreck of the Portland and the shoal extending \Yi miles 
 southward from Strawberry Point should be kept in mind. 
 
 Approaching from southeastward, vessels pass 2 miles or more south- 
 ward of Southeast Rock and the breakers between it and Cape St. 
 Elias. From a position 2J^ miles west-south westward of Pinnacle 
 Rock, a 12 true (N by W Yi Wmag.) course made good for about 
 23 miles, will lead to the anchorage in Katalla Bay. Strangers enter- 
 ing Katalla Bay should do so in the daytime and with clear weather. 
 
 From Katalla bound westward, vessels can pass 1 to 1 Y 2 miles south- 
 ward of Martin Islands and make good a 273 true (SW by W % W 
 mag.) course for 61 miles to a position \Yi to 2 miles southward of 
 Cape Hinchinbrook. This course if made good should lead in a depth 
 of over 15 fathoms 3% to 4 miles southward of the sand islets lying 
 9 to 19 miles westward of Martin Islands. 
 31056 16 3 
 
34 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 
 
 COPPER RIVER 
 
 breaks through the mountains between Miles and Childs glaciers, 
 above which are rapids. Below the rapids the river flows through 
 flats about 5 miles wide in many changeable channels, varying in 
 depth from 5 to 20 feet at high stages of the river, and not navigable. 
 The current is swift and the effect of the tide on the current is only 
 felt near the mouth. 
 
 The entire delta is low marshy flats except for sand dunes, 50 to 
 150 feet high, on the islands and. banks of the main channel. From 
 seaward the vicinity of Copper River shows as a vast, rugged moun- 
 tain range, with numerous glaciers filling its gorges. 
 
 From Point Martin to the northeast end of Hinchinbropk Island 
 the coast is fringed by sand islets from 5 to 30 feet high, lying 4 to 5 
 miles from shore. Shoals extend seaward from these islets, but they 
 have not been developed. Danger will be avoided by giving the 
 islets a berth of about 3 miles; the depth should not be shoaled to 
 less than 10 fathoms (low water). The space between these sand 
 islets and the flats is largely bare at low water, and is navigable only 
 for small craft of 3 or 4 feet draft, in places at high water only. 
 
 Alaganik Slough, the westernmost branch of Copper River, is j/2 
 to 1 mile wide, with depths from 5 to 15 feet, depending on the stage 
 of the tide and the river. The mean rise and fall of the tide at the 
 mouth is about 10 feet and at Alaganik 2 to 3 feet, and the flood 
 current is felt to the village. 
 
 Eyak Eiver, 6 miles northeastward of Point Whitshed, is connected 
 with Eyak Lake and has a swift current. At favorable stages of the 
 tide it is navigable for small, light-draft craft to the lake. 
 
 MIDDLETON ISLAND 
 
 is about 7 miles long and has a greatest width of about 2 miles near 
 its southern end. It is flat, about 120 feet high, with clay bluffs and 
 occasional shingle or bowlder beaches, and slopes gradually to it's 
 north end, which is a low spit. The island is moist, almost boggy, 
 numerous ponds are formed by rains, and it is covered with grass, 
 flowers, and berries, but there are no trees. It is frequented by wild 
 fowl, and there is driftwood on the shores. There are large bowlders 
 on the beaches and reefs around the island. 
 
 Reefs and breakers extend possibly 2 miles eastward and 4 miles 
 southward from the island and are reported to extend 2 or 3 miles 
 off its north end. On the west side kelp extends Y^ to 1 ^ miles from 
 shore. The island is not surveyed and should be approached with 
 caution. 
 
 The usual anchorage is about 1% miles off, about 320 true (WNW 
 mag.) from a shallow bight near the middle of the west side of the 
 island, in 12 to 13 fathoms, gravelly bottom. This anchorage is out- 
 side the kelp, with the north end of the island bearing 52 true (NNE 
 Y% E mag.) and the extreme southwest end 206 true (S y% E mag.). 
 The landing is bad except with a smooth sea. 
 
 The tidal currents have a velocity of 2 to 3 knots at the anchorage, 
 setting northward on the flood and southward on the ebb. 
 
 Wessels Reef, awash at low water and 2 miles long northeast and 
 southwest, lies in latitude 59 47' N., longitude 146 12' W., or about 
 
MIDDLETON ISLAND. 35 
 
 16 miles 11 true (N by W J/2 W mag.) from the north end of Middleton 
 Island. There is a depth of 30 fathoms or more close to the reef, and 
 with a smooth sea no indication of it can be detected. 
 
 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 Hinchinbrook Entrance, between Montague and Hichinbrook Islands, 
 is used by vessels entering Prince William Sound from eastward and 
 southeastward, while Elrington Passage is used by vessels approach- 
 ing from south westward. Hinchinbrook Entrance is about 6 miles 
 wide, and clear with the exception of Seal Kpcks. 
 
 The tidal currents in the entrance set directly in or out of the 
 sound. In Hinchinbrook Entrance, Montague Strait, Latouche 
 Passage, and other passages to the westward slack water occurs 
 about the time of high water or low water within Prince William 
 Sound, or 50 minutes before the time of tide at Kodiak; the mean 
 velocity of the current at strength is 1 knot. The ebb current run- 
 ning out against a large swell causes overfalls, especially in the deep 
 water 2 or 3 miles eastward of Zaikof Point, which have been mis- 
 taken for breakers. There are also tide rips on the broken ground 
 around Cape Hinchinbrook. The flood entering westward of Mon- 
 tague Island sets northeastward past Montague Point and causes 
 rips between it and Johnstone Point. Outside the entrance along 
 the southeast coast of Hinchinbrook Island the current sets south- 
 westward almost constantly. 
 
 Seal Rocks lie off the entrance 6 to 7 miles south-southwestward 
 from Cape Hinchinbrook and over 6 miles from Montague Island. 
 They are two bare rocks, 30 to 37 feet high, surrounded by low rocks. 
 Sunken rocks extend 1 mile northeastward and a short distance 
 southwesbward from them. The entire reef within the 10-fathom 
 curve forms an obstruction nearly 2J/2 miles long. 
 
 Hinchinbrook Island has two mountain ridges with elevations up to 
 2,900 feefc, and a low valley between them running through from the 
 head of Port Etches. The tree line is about 1,000 feet above the 
 sea, and the summits of the island are bare. There are a lew rocky 
 islets close to the southeast side of Cape Hinchinbrook, and sunken 
 reefs on which the sea breaks in a moderate swell lie y% mile south- 
 eastward and southward from the cape. It should be given a berth 
 of over % mile. Cape Hinchinbrook is marked by a lighthouse and 
 fog signal. 
 
 Northeastward of Cape Hinchinbrook the seaward face of Hinch- 
 inbrook Island is steep, with rocky bluffs at the water, for 12 miles 
 to an open bight with a broad sand beach on the northwest side of 
 Hook Point. From Hook Point to Point Steele, a distance of 2 
 miles, the coast is a bluff about 200 feet high, with low, swampy 
 land between it and the mountains, which lie nearly 2 miles back. 
 The coast is clear except from Hook Point to Point Steele, where 
 reels make out ^ mile. A boat can land in good weather on the 
 northwest side of Hook Point and Y^ mile northward of Point Steele. 
 A depth of 2J/2 fathoms was found 3 miles southeastward of Point 
 Bentinck, the northeast end of Hinchinbrook Island, and breakers 
 extend out nearly this distance in ordinary weather. 
 
36 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 Montague Island is high and mountainous, and wooded to an ele- 
 vation of about 1,000 feet. At its north end are three prominent 
 points forming Zaikof and Rocky Bays, and low depressions run 
 through from the heads of the bays to the northwest side of the 
 island. Schooner Rock, 61 feet high, lies nearly ^ mile off Zaikof 
 Point, the northeast end of Montague Island, and is marked by a 
 small white house. 
 
 For a distance of 20 miles southward of Zaikof Point the coast of 
 Montague Island is unbroken and free from outlying dangers, except- 
 ing Seal Rocks. Thence southward the coast is more irregular and 
 should be given a good berth in the absence of a complete survey. 
 A vessel is reported to have struck a sunken rock lying about 9 
 miles northeasoward of Cape Cleare and possibly as much as 2 miles 
 offshore. The position is doubtful. 
 
 Wooded Islands lie 13 to 17 miles northeastward of Cape Cleare 
 and extend offshore about 3 miles. The largest are five in number, 
 60 to 130 feet high, flat-topped and wooded, with bluff sides. Rips 
 or breakers are reported to extend 1 % miles northeastward from the 
 northernmost island. 
 
 A bank with 18 and 20 fathoms is reported to extend 10 or 12 
 miles south-south westward from Cape Cleare in the prolongation of 
 Montague Island. No rocks or breakers were seen except within a 
 mile of the shore. 
 
 Tides. In Prince William Sound high and low water occur about 
 50 minutes earlier than at Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the 
 tides is about 9J/ feet. To find the approximate height of the tide 
 multiply the height of the corresponding tide at Kodiak by the ratio 
 of ranges 1.37. 
 
 Glacial ice is rarely found in the open waters of Prince William 
 Sound. Ice is discharged by Columbia Glacier, northward of Glacier 
 Island, and is driven into the sound by northerly winds; it may be 
 expected, depending on the winds, from Bligh Island to Bald Head 
 Chris Island and as far south as Storey Island. 
 
 There are numerous discharging glaciers in Port Wells, the north- 
 west arm of the sound, but the ice rarely reaches the entrance of the 
 Eort. There is a discharging glacier at the head of Blackstone Bay, 
 ut the ice is confined to the bay. 
 
 Ice is discharged by Chenega Glacier on the southwest side of the 
 sound, and occasionally drifts eastward as far as Point Helen and 
 the north entrance of Latouche Passage through the passage south 
 of Chenega Island. 
 
 During very cold weather ice sometimes forms in the arms of the 
 sound which reach well into the mountains, and is at times sufficiently 
 heavy to impede navigation for wooden vessels. 
 
 PORT ETCHES 
 
 is an inlet in the southwest end of Hinchinbrook Island, about 4 miles 
 northwestward of Cape Hinchinbrook. The port is about 7 miles long 
 in a 56 true (NNE ^ E mag.) direction and about 1J4 miles wide. 
 It is a secure anchorage, the best in Hinchinbrook Entrance, and is 
 easy of access. The strongest gales are northeast and are not steady, 
 but descend from the surrounding mountains in heavy williwaws of 
 
PORT ETCHES. 37 
 
 varied direction, and they sometimes blow hard in Port Etches when 
 comparatively light winds prevail outside. Fresh water can con- 
 veniently be obtained from streams in Garden Cove and on the north- 
 west side of Constantino Harbor. 
 
 The best anchorage for large vessels is in the middle abreast Garden 
 Cove, 2 miles from the head of the port, in 12 to 15 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom. A flat extends 1J^ miles from the head, but the lead is a 
 good guide to avoid it. The swell is quite perceptible in heavy 
 southerly weather. 
 
 Garden Cove (Mosquito Bight), on the southeast side, 2 to 2J/ 
 miles from the head of the port, is the best anchorage for small vessels. 
 Garden Island, wooded and having a break through it, lies in the 
 middle of the entrance; the bight eastward of this island is shoal, 
 and there is no safe passage northeastward of it. Point Horn, the 
 southwest point of the cove, is the most prominent of the projecting 
 points on the southeast shore of Port Etches. 
 
 To enter Garden Cove pass 400 j}o 500 yards northward of this point 
 and steer 93 true (NE by E % E mag.). Anchor with Point Horn 
 in line with the southernmost of the Porpoise Rocks, and about 250 
 yards southeastward of Garden Island, with the break through it 
 open, in 4 to 5 fathoms, sticky bottom. No ocean swell reaches the 
 anchorage, but, as elsewhere in Port Etches, the williwaws are bad in 
 easterly gales, coming both from the head of the port and the head of 
 the cove. 
 
 English Bay, on the southeast side at the entrance of the port, is a 
 bight about % m il e wide. It may bo used as a temporary anchorage 
 by smaU vessels, but it is exposed to the ocean swell in heavy weather 
 and open to northerly and westerly winds. Easterly gales blow in 
 williwaws from all directions, but do not raise much sea if anchored 
 well in the cove. The holding ground is good. When entering give 
 the southwest point of the cove a berth of J mile, and anchor in the 
 middle just inside the entrance, in about 5 fathoms. 
 
 The two bights on the southeast shore of Port Etches, 1% and 3^ 
 miles northeastward of English Bay, are rocky and should be avoided. 
 
 Porpoise Rocks, on the northwest side at the entrance of Port 
 Etches, are three principal rocks about 48 feet high, with numerous 
 small rocks between and northeastward of them. The westernmost 
 and largest is flat on top and grass-covered, and a rock covered at 
 high water lies 200 yards westward from it. There is deep water 
 close to the rocks, except on their northeast side where there is foul 
 ground extending to Point Barber at Nuchek, a distance of 1 mile, 
 with no safe channel between. There is kelp around Porpoise Rocks 
 and for a distance of % mile southwestward of Point Barber. 
 
 In good weather steamers sometimes anchor off the shingle spit 
 northwestward of Nuchek to land or receive passengers and freight. 
 It is an uneasy anchorage on account of the swell. The best anchor- 
 age is abreast the spit midway between the village and the rocky, 
 wooded knob on the middle of the spit, with the village bearing 95 
 true (ENE mag.), and the southeast one of the three largest Porpoise 
 Rocks in line with the end of Hinchinbrook Island, bearing 191 
 true (S by E ^ E mag.), in about 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 
 Nuchek is an Indian village on the southeast end of the shingle spit 
 at the southwest end of Constantine Harbor. 
 
38 PORT ETCHES. 
 
 CONSTANTINE HARBOR 
 
 is the lagoon on the northwest side of Port Etches, its entrance lying 
 3 miles northeastward of Porpoise Kocks. It is suitable only for 
 small craft on account of the very narrow entrance channel, which is 
 50 to 100 yards wide with depths of 18 to 19 feet. The tidal currents 
 have considerable velocity in the entrance. The best time to enter 
 is at high water, preferably near slack water. The harbor is generally 
 shallow, but has an area % mile long and % mile wide with depths of 
 3 to 4}4 fathoms, sticky bottom, but exposed to williwaws. 
 
 On the northeast side of the entrance are three small, rocky, 
 wooded islets with overhanging sides. Between them are three rocks 
 bare at low water, and 60 yards south-southeastward from the 
 western islet is a sunken rock, all marked by kelp at slack water. 
 The channel is close to the islets, between them and a shoal with 9 to 
 10 feet over it extending 600 yards northeastward from Phipps 
 Point. 
 
 To enter Constantino Harbor pass 100 yards south westward of the 
 western islet on a west-northwesterly course, follow the northwest 
 shore at a distance of 125 yards, and pass through the narrow entrance 
 in mid-channel heading for Bear Cape. Keep this course for %to% 
 mile from the entrance and anchor about 200 yards from the southeast 
 shore, which affords some protection in northeast gales from the 
 strongest williwaws that come apparently from the head of Port 
 Etches. 
 
 A temporary anchorage can be made about J^ mile southeastward 
 of the rocky islets in the entrance of Constantine Harbor, with the 
 southeast Porpoise Kock open from the northwest shore of the port, 
 bearing 242 true (SW by S mag.), in 10 to 12 fathoms, sticky bottom, 
 but there is considerable swell in heavy weather. 
 
 Tides. High and low water occur about 45 minutes before high 
 and low water at Kodiak. The mean rise and fall of the tides is 9 
 feet. To find the height of the tide for any day at Port Etches 
 multiply the height of the corresponding predicted tide at Kodiak by 
 the ratio of ranges 1.29. 
 
 ZAIKOF BAY, 
 
 the easternmost of the two bays in the north end of Montague Island, 
 is clear and affords anchorage, but is exposed to northeast winds. 
 Anchorage can be selected with the aid of the chart along the south- 
 east shore, from 2 miles inside Schooner Rock to the head, also on a 
 bar with 10 to 15 fathoms which extends across the bay 2^ miles 
 from the head. A good berth is in 7 to 12 fathoms, depending on the 
 swinging room required, in the cove on the southeast side 2^ miles 
 inside Schooner Kock, with Middle Point bearing 352 true (NW 
 J4 N mag.). This anchorage is exposed to winds from north to east, 
 and a swell makes in during southeast gales. The only dangers are a 
 short reef marked by kelp off the point westward, and two rocks, bare 
 at half tide and marked by kelp, close to the shore eastward. 
 
 A small vessel can anchor in the cove on the southeast side Ij^j 
 miles from the head, with shelter from northeast winds. Anchor 
 close to the southern side of the point, about 200 yards from the 
 short spit making out from it, in 8 to 10 fathoms. There is no swell, 
 
ZAIKOF BAY. 39 
 
 but the williwaws blow with great force over the lower land inside 
 the point. When the wind hauls southeastward or southward the 
 williwaws come from all directions, and it is well to shift anchorage 
 farther from the spit. There is a small shallow lagoon at the head 
 of the cove ; an I the bank is steep-to. 
 
 ROCKY BAY 
 
 has deep water and is exposed to northerly and easterly winds. A 
 small vessel can anchor in good weather about ^ mile from the head 
 and 400 yards from the northwest side, in 8 to 10 fathoms. Small 
 craft can^anchor in the lagoon, on the southern side 1 mile from the 
 head, where there is a small area with a depth of 10 feet. When 
 entering the lagoon, care should be taken to avoid a reef, partly bare 
 at low water, extending westward and northwestward from the 
 north point at its entrance. 
 
 Two ledges, bare at low water and marked by kelp, lie nearly J^ 
 mile off the southern side of Rocky Bay, y% to % mile inside Middle 
 Point. Kelp extends northeastward from them to a 3%-fathom 
 patch lying % mile 355 true (NW by N mag.) from Middle Point. 
 Foul ground marked by kelp extends ^ m il e ff Middle Point. 
 
 A reef, the higher part bare at half tide, extends nearly J| mile 
 northeastward from Montague Point. 
 
 NORTHWEST SHORE OF HINCHINBROOK ISLAND. 
 
 Bear Cape is steep and high, and is the southwest end of the 
 northwest, mountain ridge of Hinchinbrook Island. 
 
 A small cove in Hinchinbrook Island, 3 miles northward of Bear 
 Cape, has anchorage a little southward of the middle of the entra ce 
 in 8 to 10 fathoms, with shelter from easterly and southeasterly 
 winds. 
 
 Shelter Bay has a shallow entrance with strong currents, and can 
 not be used even by small craft. Temporary anchorage, with 
 shelter from offshore winds, may be had about ^ mile from shore, 
 off the middle of the bight at the entrance of Shelter Bay, in 5 to 10 
 fathoms, sandy and muddy bottom. A shoal, with rocks in places, 
 extends about % mile from the shore in the bight. 
 
 A vessel has anchored in 10 fathoms, about ^ mile northwest- 
 ward of the Seven Sisters, and found the williwaws less strong with 
 southeast winds than at the anchorage 3 miles northward of Bear 
 Cape. 
 
 Temporary anchorage, with shelter from offshore winds, may be 
 had southward of the sharp point, with two rocks about 30 feet 
 high close-to, lying % mile southward of Johnstone Point. The 
 anchorage is about J^ mile off the sand beach and southwestward of 
 the sharp point, in about 10-fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 
 Johnstone Point, the northwest end of Hinchinbrook Island, is low 
 and wooded, with a small bluff at the water, and is marked by a light. 
 
 Eastward of Johnstone Point the shore is low, and there are two 
 shallow bays or lagoons. The easterly bay has secure anchorage for 
 small craft. The entrance, lying 4 miles eastward of Johnstone 
 Point, is westward of the island in its mouth, and then leads between 
 
40 HINOHINBROOK ISLAND. 
 
 two rocks. The one on the west side is bare at half tide and is at the 
 end of a sand spit making out from the shore; it should be given a 
 berth of about 40 yards. The.rock on the east side is bare at extreme 
 low water. When inside the rocks, head for the cove in the southwest 
 side of the bay, and anchor in about 3 fathoms, sticky bottom, about 
 250 to 300 yards from shore, and about half way between the sand 
 spit mentioned above and the south shore of the bay. 
 
 Anchorage can be selected off the shore, westward of Middle Ground 
 Shoal, in 12 to 20 fathoms, soft bottom, with shelter from southerly 
 and easterly winds. 
 
 Middle Ground Shoal fills the opening between Hinchinbrook and 
 Hawkins Islands and extends into,Orca Bay 3 miles. The general 
 depths on the shoal are 2 to 6 feet, and it is a danger for vessels 
 entering Orca Bay from southward. It is marked at its northwest 
 end by a red bell buoy. 
 
 Hawkins Island Cut-off, between Hinchinbrook and Hawkins Is- 
 lands, is navigable only for small craft with local knowledge. It is 
 filled with shoals, and in its eastern end are extensive flals bare at low 
 water and largely covered at high water. There are strong tidal 
 currents in its narrower parts. 
 
 ORCA BAY 
 
 is an extensive arm on the eastern shore of Prince William Sound 
 between Johnstone Point and Knowles Head, having a length of 
 about 30 miles in an 85 true (NE by E mag.) direction. Its prin- 
 cipal importance is derived from the railroad terminal of Cordova 
 on Orca Inlet at its head. Its southern side is formed by Hinchin- 
 brook and Hawkins Islands and is clear with the exception of Middle 
 Ground Shoal. Its north side is indented by large bays, which are of 
 no present commercial importance. 
 
 Knowles Head, the southwest end of the mountainous peninsula 
 between Port Grayina and Fidalgo Bay, is a steep massive headland, 
 1,502 feet high, with a prominent yellowish landslide down its south- 
 ern face. There is a low depression between it and Porcupine Point, 
 and others northeastward of it running through from Snug Corner 
 Cove and the arms of Two Moon Bay. There are numerous rocks 
 close to shore, but there are no known dangers if it be given a berth 
 of over J^ mile. 
 
 Red Head, 4 miles east-northeastward of Knowles Head, is a high 
 hill with a long, low, wooded neck behind it. 
 
 Port Gravina has its entrance between Red Head and Gravina 
 Point. It is not surveyed. 
 
 Gravina Point, 12 miles eastward of Knowles Head, is low and 
 wooded, and at its southern end is a bare spit with a large and a small 
 clump of trees on it. 
 
 Gravina Island, low and wooded, lies \y% miles west-northwest- 
 ward of the point and % m il e from shore. Anchorage with shelter 
 from northeast winds can be had about ]/2 mile from shore between 
 the island and Gravina Point, in about 10 fathoms. 
 
 Sheep Bay has its entrance between Gravina and Sheep Points, 
 and extends northward about 7 miles. The bay has not been closely 
 surveyed, the bottom is exceedingly broken, and vessels should pro- 
 ceed with caution. Foul ground extends % to ^ mile from the 
 
ORCA BAY. 41 
 
 eastern shore for a distance of 2 miles northward of Sheep Point. 
 Indifferent anchorage in 18 to 20 fathoms can be selected in the 
 middle about 3 miles above Sheep Point and % mile below the point 
 where the bay contracts. Proceeding with care and preferably at 
 low water, small vessels can follow the deep channel among the islands 
 in the upper part of the bay and select anchorage in 11 to 15 fathoms. 
 The chart is the guide. 
 
 Sheep Point is moderately low and wooded at the end, with high 
 land back of it. A wooded islet lies M mile westward of the point, 
 with bare rocks between, and foul ground extends J mile southward 
 and westward from the islet. 
 
 Hanks Island, small and wooded, lies ^ mile eastward of Sheep 
 Point and j/2 mile from shore. Gatherer Rock, % mile 124 true 
 (E y% S mag.) from Hanks Island, is a pinnacle with 13 feet over it 
 and deep water close-to. Broken ground on which the least depth 
 found is 8 feet extends J mile southward from Hanks Island, and 
 is marked at its south end by a black buoy. 
 
 Simpson Bay has depths of 25 to 30 fathoms, muddy bottom, 
 through the middle of its outer part. There are two islets abreast 
 each other, about J^ mue from the east and west shores, and nearly 
 1 mile inside the entrance, which are good marks for navigating this 
 part of the bay. A rock, bare at extreme low water, lies 400 yards 
 southward of the east point at the entrance to the inner part of the 
 bay. Passing westward of this rock, the mid-channel is clear to 
 the head of the bay, where there is anchorage, favoring the western 
 shore, between the edge of the flat and the islets southward, in about 
 15 fathoms. The chart is a sufficient guide. 
 
 The east arm of Simpson Bay is clear except near the shores. 
 Good anchorage can be selected on either side of the islands in the 
 upper part of the arm hi 12 to 15 fathoms. 
 
 Hawkins Island is about 20 miles long and mountainous, with 
 elevations up to 2,025 feet. Canoe Passage, dividing the island 
 about 8 miles from its southwest end, is navigable only for boats at 
 high water. The northwest shore southwestward of Canoe Passage 
 is low tundra meadows with patches of trees. Northeastward of 
 Canoe Passage the high land is nearer the northwest shore of the 
 island; there are bluffs in places, and it is more densely wooded. 
 
 With the aid of the chart, anchorage can be selected in places along 
 the northwest shore of Hawkins Island with shelter from easterly 
 and southerly winds. The best anchorage is J^ to ^g mue on? ^ ne 
 spit at the south end of Cedar Bay in 9 to 12 fathoms, soft bottom. 
 There is a round, wooded islet at the north end of this spit, and a 
 larger wooded one J^ mile northward. Small craft, entering at 
 high water and passing northward of the rocks awash and sunken 
 inside the entrance, can anchor in the north angle of the lagoon 
 inside the spit, where there is a limited area with a depth of 7 feet. 
 
 Channel Islands are wooded and nearly 1 mile long, and lie on the 
 northwest side of the bay 6 miles above Sheep Point. The channel 
 at the islands is J^ mile wide and is called The Narrows. A rock with 
 12 feet over it lies % mile south-southwestward of the southwest 
 end of Channel Islands, and is marked by a black buoy. The rock 
 is at the north end of a ridge about % mile long in a south-south- 
 westerly direction, with depths of 13 to 14 fathoms, except near the 
 rock. 
 
42 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 ORCA INLET 
 
 extends in a southerly direction from the head of Ore a Bay. From 
 North Island to Spike Island the western side of the inlet is shoal, 
 and southward of opike Island the inlet is filled by flats. Northward 
 of North Island it has depths of 25 to 30 fathoms, and a flat extends 
 1 mile from the head at its north end. 
 
 Salmo Point, the northern extremity of Hawkins Island, is just 
 ahove Channel Islands. Knot Point, the northeast end of Hawkins 
 Island, lies 1 J^ miles south-southeastward from Salmo Point with a 
 bay 1J^ miles long and % m ile wide between. This bay has depths 
 of 3 to 6 fathoms, but a shoal with 9 to 12 feet over it extends across 
 its entrance; it may be used as an anchorage by small vessels that can 
 cross the shoal. 
 
 Observation Island, % mile long, high and wooded, lies 3 / mile 
 northeastward of Knot Point. There is good anchorage 300 to 500 
 yards westward of Observation Island, in 8 to 10 fathoms, but care 
 must be observed not to foul the cable which lies about 250 yards from 
 the west side of the island. 
 
 North Island, y% mile long, low and wooded, lies 1 mile northward 
 of Salmo Point. 
 
 From Salmo Point there are three channels to Orca cannery and 
 Cordova. 
 
 The deepest channel is north of North Island, and then follows the 
 eastern shore with a least width of 350 yards and a least depth of 
 about 5 fathoms, and is marked by buoys. A rock bare at three- 
 quarters ebb lies 650 yards northeastward from the north end of 
 North Island, and is marked by a light. The shoal on the west side 
 of the channel between North and Observation Islands has depths 
 of 10 to 18 feet, and with care can be avoided by the use of the lead. 
 
 The bight in the eastern shore eastward of North Island is filled by- a 
 flat, largely bare at low water and steep-to, which extends J^ mile 
 off the sawmill at the mouth of the stream in the bight; the sawmill 
 wharf extends across the flat to the edge of the channel. The bight 
 extending J^ mile northward from Cordova wharf is filled by a flat, 
 and depths of 19 to 24 feet are found on and a little westward of the 
 line from the wharf to the north point of the bight. With these 
 exceptions the eastern shore is clear. 
 
 Orca Channel, between North and Observation Islands, has a depth 
 of about 18 feet and a width of about 300 yards between shoals with 
 10 to 12 feet over them. It is used by small vessels with local 
 knowledge, but should be avoided by strangers. South Rock, bare 
 at half tide, lies 250 yards northward from Observation Island. 
 North Rock, covered only at high water, lies midway between Observa- 
 tion and North Islands. 
 
 Odiak Channel passes westward of Observation Island, and across 
 the shoal 1^ miles southward of the island where the depth is 18 to 
 20 feet. The following directions lead through the channel in a least 
 depth of 18 feet: 
 
 Round Salmo Point at a distance of about 400 yards, steer 185 
 true (SSE j/ E mag.) and pass about 200 yards eastward of Knot 
 Point. Then steer 169 true (SE 3/^ S mag.) with Knot Point astern 
 and the red buoy lying J/ m ^ e northward of Cordova wharf a little 
 
OKCA INLET. 43 
 
 on the starboard bow. Pass eastward of the buoy and steer about 
 211 true (S Y 8 W mag.) for Spike Island. 
 
 Orca cannery is on the eastern shore southeastward from Observa- 
 tion Island. There is a depth of 25 feet at the end of the wharf, and 
 water can be obtained through pipe and hose. There is good anchor- 
 age about y m il e from the eastern shore abreast or southward of the 
 cannery, in 7 to 9 fathoms. 
 
 Cordova, the terminus of the Copper River & Northwestern Rail- 
 road, is on the east shore of Orca Inlet eastward of Spike Island. 
 There are stores and hotels, and provisions and supplies of all kinds 
 can be obtained. There is communication by telephone to stations 
 along the railroad, Katalla, and the radio station at Point Whitshed, 
 and by cable to other Alaska ports and Seattle. Water and fuel oil 
 can be obtained at the wharf. Coal may be purchased in limited 
 quantities, and in larger quantities if sufficient notice be given. 
 
 Cordova wharf is on the eastern shore % m ile northward of Spike 
 Island and 2 miles southward of JDrca. It is 740 feet long and has a 
 least depth of 29 feet along its face; a depth of 26 feet is found for a 
 distance of 150 yards westward from its northern end. 
 
 There is good anchorage in the channel westward of the wharf and 
 Spike Island, in 8 to 10 fathoms. The edge of the flat on the western 
 side of the inlet lies Y% mile westward of the wharf and y% mile south- 
 westward of Spike Island. Spike Island is about 300 yards long and 
 wooded. The inlet eastward and southward of it is shoal. 
 
 CUR-RENTS, ORCA INLET. 
 
 The tidal currents in Orca Inlet set southward on the flood and 
 northward on the ebb. 
 
 At Orca the strength of the flood occurs 2 hours before the time 
 of high water and the strength of the ebb 2 hours 30 minutes before 
 the time of low water at Kodiak. The mean velocity of the current 
 at strength of flood is about 1.5 knots and at strength of ebb is 0.8 
 knot. Slack water before the flood occurs 15 minutes before time of 
 low water at Kodiak, and slack water before the ebb occurs 1 hour 
 and 10 minutes after time of high water at Kodiak. 
 
 The current sets directly off the face of the Cordova wharf on both 
 flood and ebb, due to the fact that the wharf is built off a small point 
 with a decided bight in the shore on either side. 
 
 At Cordova the strength of the flood occurs three hours before the 
 time of high water, and the strength of the ebb three hours before 
 the time of low water at Kodiak. The mean velocity of the current 
 at strength of flood is about 2 knots and at strength of ebb is about 
 1.4 knots, although at times the current may exceed 3 knots. Slack 
 water before the flood occurs 10 minutes after the time of low water 
 at Kodiak, and slack water before the ebb occurs 30 minutes after 
 the time of high water at Kodiak. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, ORCA BAY. 
 
 From Hinchinbrook Entrance. Round Cape Hinchinbrook at a dis- 
 tance of about \y^ miles and follow the western shore of Hinchin- 
 brook Island at a distance of about 1 mile, course 350 true (NW % 
 N mag.). When the point 3 miles above Bear Cape is abeam, 
 
44 ORCA BAY BISECTIONS. 
 
 steer 31 true (N ^ E mag.) for 7% miles to a position 1 mile west- 
 northwestward of Johnstone Point light. Then steer 66 true (NE % 
 N mag.) for 8]4 miles to a position % m ile northwestward of Middle 
 Ground Shoal bell buoy. Then steer 79 true (NE y s E mag.) for 17 
 miles, passing V^ mile off Windy Bay light and to a position 300 to 
 500 yards southeastward of the black buoy south-south westward of 
 Channel Islands. 
 
 Then steer 58 true (NNE y% E mag.) for 3 miles and pass in 
 mid-channel eastward of Channel Islands and in mid-channel north- 
 westward of North Island. Then haul eastward, pass J4 mile north- 
 ward of North Island Rock light and buoy No. 2. Then steer 197 
 true (S by E mag.) for Orca cannery, follow a mid-channel course 
 as defined by the red buoys and the end of the sawmill wharf, and 
 pass the point on the eastern shore J^ mile southward of the saw- 
 mill at a distance of 250 to 300 yards. Continue the course until 
 the north end of Observation Island is abeam. Then steer 216 true 
 (S Y% W mag.) and pass the point on the eastern shore 1 mile south- 
 ward of the cannery at a distance of 300 yards. Then steer 211 true 
 (S J/s W mag.) for Spike Island until about J4 m il e from the wharf at 
 Cordova, and then haul in for the wharf. 
 
 Approaching Cordova wharf with the flood (sou th-flo whig) current, 
 vessels generally drop an anchor, swing to it, and then make the 
 wharf. 
 
 From Northwestward. Pass about 1 mile southward of Knowles 
 Head and steer 107 true (E by N mag.) for about 12 J^ miles to a 
 position 1 mile southward of Gravina Point. Then steer 96 true 
 (ENE mag.) for 9J^ miles, passing Y% mile southward of the black 
 buoy southward of Hanks Island, and to a position ^ mile north- 
 westward of Windy Bay light. Then steer 79 true (NE % E mag.) 
 for 4 miles to a position 300 to 500 yards southeastward of the black 
 buoy south-southwestward of Channel Islands. 
 
 Or, from a position 1 mile northward of Point Eleanor a 90 true 
 (NE by E ]/2 E mag.) course made good for 47 ]/% miles should lead 
 1^ miles southward of Gravina Point, \y% miles southward of Sheep 
 Point, and to a position y% to y mile from the southeastern shore 
 above Windy Bay. Then follow the directions in the third para- 
 graph preceding. * 
 
 From South west ward. Directions from Latouche Passage to Seal 
 Island are given on page 50. Pass about 1 mile southeastward of 
 Seal Island and steer 74 true (NE mag.) for 31 miles, passing 2 
 miles northwestward of Johnstone Point light and to a position y^ 
 mile northwestward of Middle Ground Shoal bell buoy. 
 
 FIDALGO BAY 
 
 has its entrance on the eastern shore of Prince William Sound between 
 Goose and Bligh Islands, where it is 5 miles wide, and extends north- 
 eastward 22 miles or more. There are mines in Boulder and Land- 
 locked Bays and on the south shore of Fidalgo Bay, between Irish 
 Cove and Whalen Bay. 
 
 The waters of the main arm of Fidalgo Bay are deep and free from 
 outlying dangers. Toward the head there are a number of small 
 islets with good water close-to on the channel sides. Vessels may 
 
FIDALGO BAY. 45 
 
 navigate with safety as far as the entrance to the southeasterly arm 
 at the head of the bay by keeping over J4 m ^ e offshore. 
 
 Goose Island is 1H miles long, 320 feet high, and wooded, and has 
 two prominent knolls. Gull Island, small and rocky, is midway 
 between it and the shore. The passage between the islands should 
 be avoided by strangers, and that between Gull Island and Porcu- 
 pine Point is foul. 
 
 Porcupine Point is a round, wooded bluff, 894 feet high, with a 
 low depression between it and Knowles Head. A rock, bare at low 
 water and marked by kelp, lies 350 yards northward of the point. 
 
 Snug Corner Cove, on the northeast side of Porcupine Point, has 
 good anchorage except from northwest winds, but the bottom is 
 irregular and it should be avoided by large vessels. Foul ground 
 extends % mile from the northeast shore of the cove, and a rocky 
 patch with 4^ fathoms, possibly less, lies in the entrance ^ mile off 
 the northeast side of Porcupine Point. There is a low divide at the 
 head of the cove and another across Porcupine Point. 
 
 To enter Snug Corner Cove, avoid the rock off Porcupine Point and 
 follow the southwest shore at a distance of about J^ mile. Anchor 
 about ^ mile off the bight in the southwest shore, before reaching 
 the narrowest part of the cove, in 10 to 11 fathoms, soft bottom. 
 Small vessels can find better shelter from northerly winds in the basin 
 at the head of the cove, in a depth of 5 fathoms. Favor the south- 
 west shore slightly when entering and anchoring. The shores of the 
 basin should be given a berth of over J^ mile. 
 
 Two Moon Bay, on the southeast shore of Fidalgo Bay, 4 miles 
 above Porcupine Point, is 1 mile wide at the entrance, and about 2 
 miles long to the head of either of its two arms. Low divides extend 
 through to Orca Bay from the head of the arms. There is good 
 anchorage in the bay at the entrance to either arm, and vessels of 
 moderate size can anchor in the arms, depths moderate, and bottom 
 generally sticky. A mid-channel course should be followed in the 
 arms. At the head of the southeast arm is a basin trending south- 
 ward where small vessels can anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms. The chan- 
 nel is between the west point and a reef bare at low water near the 
 middle of the entrance. 
 
 Irish Cove, on the southeast shore of Fidalgo Bay-, 7% miles above 
 Porcupine Point, is a narrow inlet about 1 mile long. Small craft 
 can find secure anchorage in the widest part near its head in 5 fathoms. 
 To enter favor the eastern side to the narrows and then keep in mid- 
 channel. 
 
 A small wharf of the Fidalgo Mining Co. is located on the south 
 shore, 1% miles southwestward of the entrance to Whalen Bay. 
 
 Whalen Bay is 2^ miles long with an average width of 0.3 mile. 
 Mud flats bare at low water, extend across the bay for a distance of 
 y% mile from the head. 
 
 Small vessels may enter the bay on a mid-channel course, and find 
 anchorage in 7 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel 1 mile inside the entrance. 
 
 A group of islands and islets 180 to 190 feet high lies near the head 
 of Fidalgo Bay. They are connected by mud flats to the shores to the 
 eastward. A single islet lies about 900 yards southwestward of this 
 group, the passage to the bight northward lying between the two. 
 This bight has not been recommended as an anchorage. Its head is 
 
46 FIDALGO BAY. 
 
 obstructed by mud flats, and it is reported that strong williwaws will 
 be encountered. 
 
 The entrance to the southeast arm lies 2 miles southeastward of the 
 group of islands described above. A dangerous rock, bare at half 
 tide, lies on a line between the two entrance points, 460 yards off the 
 easterly point. This rock is surrounded by deep water, and may be 
 approached within 200 yards. 
 
 The head of the arm terminates in a narrow passage about 60 yards 
 wide and y% mile long, which opens put into a circular lagoon % mile 
 in diameter. It is reported that this passage is foul and should not 
 be attempted. Opposite the outer entrance to this passage, the head 
 of the bay is obstructed by mud flats, which, at low tide, are bare, or 
 covered with 1 to 2 fathoms of water. For this reason the head of the 
 bay should not be approached closer than 1 mile. 
 
 Anchorage for vessels of any size, well sheltered from wind and sea, 
 may be found in mid-channel % mile northwestward from the rock 
 awash at half tide, described above. The anchorage is in about 15 
 fathoms, mud bottom. 
 
 Small vessels may find anchorage near the head of the southeast 
 arm, in mid-channel, % mile beyond the rock. There is about 7 
 fathoms, mud bottom, in this position. 
 
 Fish Bay is on the northwest shore of Fidalgo Bay, 9 miles above 
 Porcupine Point. It is an indifferent anchorage and should be avoided 
 by large vessels. The williwaws are heavy with northeast winds, 
 drawing through the bay from the high mountains above its head. A 
 small, wooded island lies just inside the entrance J4 rnile from the 
 west side. The channel is eastward of the island and is obstructed 
 near the middle by a rock with 3^ fathoms, possibly less. Rocks, 
 bare at low water, lie 200 yards off the eastern point at the entrance. 
 Anchorage can be had in the middle, % to 1 mile above the island, in 
 8 to 13 fathoms, bottom soft in places. A flat extends % mile from 
 the head to the prominent point on the southeast side 1 J^ miles above 
 the island. 
 
 Landlocked Bay is on the northwest shore of Fidalgo Bay east of 
 Bidarka Point. It has a clear width of about 1 mile at the entrance, 
 contracts to 400 yards at 2 miles from the entrance, and then widens 
 again to % mile. There is secure anchorage in the widest part above 
 he narrows in 14 to 15 fathoms, sticky bottom. The bay is easily 
 entered during daylight, but the shadows cast by the hills at night 
 obscure the narrow entrance, rendering it difficult for vessels not 
 equipped with a searchlight. 
 
 The islands on the eastern side below the narrows have covering 
 rocks near them. On the northwest side at the entrance of the 
 narrows is an abandoned wharf. Near the middle of the narrows 
 is a rock with 6 feet over it and marked by a buoy. The deepest 
 water is northwest of the buoy, but the northwest shore abreast it 
 should be given a berth of about 100 yards. There is a flat at the 
 head of the bay with an islet at its lower edge. On the north side 
 just below the edge of the flat is a wharf of the Three Man Mine. 
 Water can be conveniently obtained from a fall on the south side of 
 the bay southeastward of the wharf. 
 
 To enter Landlocked Bay follow the western shore at a distance of 
 about % rnile, pass in mid-channel westward of the islets below the 
 
FIDALGO BAY. 47 
 
 narrows, and pass about 50 yards northwestward of the buoy in the 
 narrows, above which the mid-channel is clear. 
 
 Bidarka Point is a wooded hill 912 feet high with a lower strip at 
 its south end having considerable grassy areas. A shoal extends % 
 mile southward from the point. 
 
 Boulder Bay, between Bligh Island and Bidarka Point, is about 4 
 miles long and 2 miles wide at the entrance. There are several 
 dangers in the bay, the depths are very irregular, and there is no 
 desirable anchorage. On the east side at the head of the bay is a 
 wharf, for vessels, of a copper mine. 
 
 A reef, bare at lowest tides, lies ^ mile from the western shore of 
 the bay; its eastern end, with 15 feet over it, lies % mn<e from the 
 western shore and % mile 197 true (S by E mag.) from the south- 
 east end of the islands at the entrance to Tatitlek Narrows. 
 
 A sunken rock, nearly awash at low water, lies % mile from a 
 point on the eastern shore, and 1 s/g miles northwestward from Bidarka 
 Point. It is marked on its southwest side by a red buoy. 
 
 A reef, partly bare at low water, lies 400 to 800 yards southeast- 
 ward from the small wooded island in the middle near the head of 
 Boulder Bay. 
 
 To enter Boulder Bay, bring the houses on the east side at the head 
 to show just oj>en westward of the wooded island in the middle near 
 the head, bearing 17 true (N by W mag.), and stand in on this 
 line, passing about 200 yards westward of the red buoy. On 
 approaching the island, edge a little westward and pass midway 
 between it and the grassy, partly wooded islet near the western 
 shore. Then steer for the wharf. 
 
 Bligh Island, on the eastern shore of Prince William Sound, is 4J/ 
 miles long, 3 miles wide, and mountainous. The southwest end of 
 the island is a steep wooded head 1,630 feet high with some yellow 
 landslides near the water. On its northwest side are a number of 
 islands with foul ground between. 
 
 Reef Island, off the west side of Bligh Island, is 1 mile long, level 
 and wooded, and has a single knoll, 338 feet high, in the middle, 
 which distinguishes it from Goose Island. A rock, bare at low water, 
 lies % mile 208 true (S mag.) from the southwest end of the island. 
 The rock is marked by a buoy. 
 
 Bligh Island Reef is % mile long with depths from 7 to 28 feet. 
 It is marked at its south end by a buoy. The wreck of the Olympia 
 stands on the reef and has the appearance of a vessel underway. 
 The passage between the reef and Reef Island has deep water and is 
 used at times by vessels rounding Bligh Island; the line of the west 
 end of Busby Island and Rocky Point, bearing 23 true (N % W 
 mag.), leads through the middle of the channel. 
 
 Busby Island, off the northwest end of Bligh Island, is 1J^ miles 
 long, 275 feet high, and partly wooded. Its western point is long, 
 level, and wooded, and is surrounded by a reef to a distance of nearly 
 J4 mile. The point is marked by a light, and a part of the wreck 
 of the Saratoga shows near the end of the reef. 
 
 Currents, At the entrance to Fidalgo Bay, north of Goose Island 
 the mean strength of current is about 0.6 knot; slack water before 
 flood and ebb occurring about two hours before the time of low water 
 and high water, respectively, at Kodiak. 
 
48 PEINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 TATITLEK NARROWS AND VIRGIN BAY. 
 
 Tatitlek Narrows separates Busby and Bligh Islands from trie 
 main shore, and offers a more direct route for small craft between 
 Port Valdez or Ellamar and points on Port Fidalgo. The channel 
 has a depth of about 4 fathoms, but it is narrow with foul ground 
 on both sides and should not be used by vessels in the absence of 
 aids. 
 
 Tatitlek is a small Indian village on the northeast shore at the 
 southeast end of the narrows. 
 
 Virgin Bay is a shallow bight J/ to % mn<e l n g n ^ ne northeast 
 shore of Tatitlek Narrows. There is little water in the northern 
 and southern ends of the bay, and on the north side in the entrance 
 is a long reef bare at low water. The approach is marked by two 
 buoys. There is a depth of 10 to 12 feet in the approach to the wharf, 
 which is on the northeast side and has a depth of 12 feet at its end. 
 Fresh water can be had at the wharf. Vessels now use the ore dock 
 which has been built on the end of the reef J4 mile westward (true) 
 from the wharf, with which it is connected with an aerial cable. 
 
 Ellamar, on the northeast side of Virgin Bay, has a post office, store, 
 hotel, and other buildings. Ore from the copper mine is shipped to 
 Tacoma. 
 
 Anchorage can be had J^ to j^s mile from the northeast shore of 
 Tatitlek Narrows, and J^ to % mu<e westward of the ore dock at 
 Ellamar, in 12 to 16 fathoms, sticky bottom. TW T O buoyed shoals 
 lie in the narrows in the approach from northwestward to Virgin 
 Bay one with 15 feet over it y% mile 298 true (W mag.), and the 
 other with about 17 feet over it about % mile 287 true (W by S 
 mag.) , from the southeast point of Virgin Bay. 
 
 VALDEZ ARM, 
 
 *he northern arm of Prince William Sound, extends about 13 miles 
 in a 32 true (N J^ E mag.) direction from Busby Island and Point 
 Freemantle to the northern end of Valdez Narrows, and then turns 
 to about 85 true (NE by E mag.) for 11 miles to the town of Valdez 
 at its head. The water is very deep and there are no outlying dangers 
 except Middle Rock. There are few anchorages on account of the 
 great depths. Rocks bare at low water lie J^ mile from shore and 
 2^8 miles northward of Point Freemantle, and with this exception 
 the western shore is bold to Valdez Narrows. 
 
 Sawmill Bay, on the western shore 9 miles northward of Point 
 Freemantle, is y% mile wide at the entrance and 1 }^ miles long in a 
 349 true (NW J^ N mag.) direction. Entering in mid-channel, 
 there is a secure anchorage with a clear width of over % m ^ e m ^ ne 
 expansion ^ mile inside the entrance, in 9 fathoms, sticky bottom. 
 The south and west ends of the basin forming the anchorage are 
 shoal, and a flat fills the head of the bay down to the narrows at the 
 north end of the basin. 
 
 Rocky Point, off the western end of the peninsula between Tatitlek 
 Narrows and Galena Bay, is a chain of low, rocky islands, the outer 
 and highest one about 30 feet high and having some scattered trees. 
 The south point of Galena Bay is a wooded islet joined to the shore 
 by a low spit. A rocky, grass-covered islet lies M mu<e northward 
 from the south point at the entrance. 
 
VALDEZ ABM. 49 
 
 Galena Bay is about 5 miles long in a general easterly direction, with 
 a width of ^ to 1)^ miles, but mrrowed at 3 miles from the entrance 
 to % mile. The depths are great throughout except for flats off the 
 mouths of streams. There is an islet on the north side below the 
 narrows, and a rock with 12 feet over it lies 300 yards 62 true (NE 
 by N mag.) from the islet. Care should be observed in the vicinity 
 of the 13 and 17 fathom soun lings in the narrows, as that area is 
 not thoroughly developed. The only anchorage is about J m il e 
 southward of the islets on the north side at the head of the bay, in 
 about 15 fathoms, bottom soft in places. A flat exte ds Y mile 
 from the southeast end of the head of the bay. 
 
 A group of rocky, grass-covered islets extends % m ile off the north 
 point at the entrance of Galena Bay. There is anchorage in the 
 middle of the cove northeast of the islets, in 10 to 12 fathoms, sticky 
 bottom. 
 
 Jack Bay, on the eastern shore southward of Valdez Narrows, is 
 5}/2 miles long in a 118 true (EL mag.) direction, with a width of % 
 mile at the entrance and ^ to % mile in the upper 3 miles. Anchor- 
 age can be had in mid-channel or closer to the southern shore 1J^ 
 miles inside the entrance in 10 to 12 fathoms, bottom sticky in 
 places; also for small vessels in the entrance of the short arm, north- 
 eastward of the islands in the bay, in the same depths. The passage 
 northward of the islands and that between the islands and the point 
 eastward are not thoroughly developed and should be used with 
 caution. The first cove on the south side is foul. Shoals make out 
 about 400 yards from the southeast end of the second cove. A flat 
 extends about y% mile from the head of the bay to an islet. A small 
 vessel can anchor about 300 yards westward of the islet and the 
 same distance from the south shore in about 15 fathoms. 
 
 Valdez Narrows is about 2 miles long and % mile wide, with deep 
 water and bold shores, especially the eastern one. A wooded islet 
 lies 300 yards from the western shore at the north end of the narrows. 
 Middle Rock, a pinnacle barely covered at extreme high tides, lies in 
 the middle of the north end of the narrows 850 yards 85 true (NE 
 by E mag.) from the islet and y% mile from the eastern shore, and is 
 marked by a light. 
 
 The bay (locally known as Shoup Bay) at the mouth of Shoup Glacier 
 is closed by a sand spit nearly all dry at low water and over which the 
 best depth is about 7 feet. This bay is often filled with floating ice, 
 some of which escapes into the port when the wind and tide are 
 favorable. A wharf of the Cliff mine extends into Port Valdez from 
 the easterly point at the entrance to Shoup Bay. Vessels generally 
 go to the wharf port side to, and the depth is said to be ample. 
 
 Swanport is a small anchorage under Jackson Point, the western 
 end of the eastern one of the two islands on the south side of Port 
 Valdez, 3^' miles from Valdez. The bottom drops off abruptly, 
 but a small vessel will have swinging room if anchored in 10 fathoms 
 350 yards 242 true (SW by S mag.) from Jackson Point and the 
 same distance from the south shore. This is the best anchorage 
 between Valdez Narrows and Valdez. The cove inside the island is 
 nearly filled by a flat, and vessels have been beached on it. 
 
 A temporary anchorage for large vessels can be had about }/ mile 
 from the north shore and % mile eastward of Gold Creek, in about 
 30 fathoms. 
 
 31056: 
 
50 VALDEZ ARM. 
 
 Fort Liscum is an Army post and wharf on the south shore 1 mile 
 eastward of Jackson Point. Water can be had at the wharf. 
 
 Valdez is an important town at the head of Port Valdez. There 
 are stores, hotels, assay office, and ore-testing plant, and provisions 
 and supplies of all kinds can be obtained. Most of the vessels trad- 
 ing to Prince William Sound call at Valdez, and there is communica- 
 tion by small local craft with other places on the sound. From 
 Valdez a Government trail and telegraph line lead into the interior 
 of Alaska, and there is an overland mail service. There is cable 
 communication with other points in Alaska and Seattle. 
 ^ Two wharves extend out from the town to the edge of the flat. 
 The northwest one is the regular steamer wharf, and vessels go to 
 its end, which is about 200 feet long on the face. Approaching the 
 wharf vessels should not go inside the line of its face. The other 
 wharf is owned by the town of Valdez. 
 
 A wharf of the Midas mine is located on the south side of Port 
 Valdez, about \}/^ miles eastward of Fort Liscum. The depth is 
 said to be ample. Approaching the wharf from westward care 
 should be taken to give sufficient berth to the edge of the flat making 
 off from Solomon Gulch. 
 
 Currents. At the entrance to Valdez Arm, west of Rocky Point, 
 the mean strength of current is about 0.6 knot, slack water before 
 the flood occurring 30 minutes before the time of low water and 
 slack water before the ebb occurring about 30 minutes before the 
 time of high water at Kodiak. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, PORT VALDEZ. 
 
 From Hinchinbrook Entrance. Give Cape Hinchinbrook a berth of 
 
 % miles, and when the lighthouse bears 70 true (NE y% N mag.), 
 distant 2J^ miles, steer 349 true (NW ^ N mag.), keeping 1 mile off 
 the southwesf shore of Hinchinbrook Island. This course made good 
 for 37 miles from Cape Hinchinbrook, or 30 miles from Bear Cape, 
 should lead to a position 4 miles from Bligh Island with the highest 
 peak at the southwest end of the island bearing 101 true (ENE y^ E 
 mag.), and Bligh Island Reef buoy should then be on the starboard 
 beam, distant 2 miles. 
 
 Then steer 30 true (N J^ E mag.) for 17 miles, passing IJ^J miles 
 westward of Busby Island light, 1 mile westward of Rocky Point, 
 and to a position J^ mile off the eastern shore about halfway through 
 Valdez Narrows; Middle Rock light should be ahead or a very little 
 on the port bow. Then steer 48 true (N by E % E mag.) for 1% 
 miles, following the eastern shore of Valdez Narrows in mid-channel 
 eastward of Middle Rock light. WTien Entrance Island (close to 
 southeast shore) is abeam, distant about Y% mile, an 82 true (NE % 
 E mag.) course made good for 10 miles will lead to the wharves at 
 Valdez. 
 
 From Latouche Passage. From a position in the northern entrance 
 of Latouche Passage, about % mile westward of Point Grace, steer 50 
 true (NNE mag.) for 5% miles to a position 1 mile eastward of Point 
 Helen light. Then steer 26 true (N Y% W mag.) for 20 miles and pass 
 1 mile westward of Seal Island. When Seal Island light bears 141 
 true (ESE mag.), distant a little over 1 mile, steer 51 true (NNE 
 mag.) for 8 miles, passing 1% miles southeastward of Smith Island 
 
PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 51 
 
 light and to a position with the light bearing 276 true (WSW mag.), 
 distant 2^ miles. Then steer 24 true (N % W mag.) for 20 miles 
 to a position 4 miles from Bligh Island, with the highest peak at the 
 southwest end of the island bearing 101 true (ENE 3^ E mag.). 
 Bligh Island Reef buoy should then bear about 79 true (NE ^ E 
 mag.), distant 2 miles. Then steer 30 true (N J/s E mag.) and follow 
 the directions in the preceding paragraph. 
 
 ISLANDS IN PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 Glacier Island is on the north side of Prince William Sound, west- 
 ward of the entrance of Valdez Arm. It is mountainous and indented 
 by a number of bays, of which Chamberlain Bay and Jackson Cove 
 are the only ones that have been sounded. 
 
 Chamberlain Bay, on the south side of Glacier Island, is exposed 
 southward, but affords anchorage for small vessels about y% mile from 
 the head, in about 15 fathoms, muddy bottom. Rocks, partly bare 
 at low water, extend 400 yards from the western side of the bay about 
 5/8 mile from the head. 
 
 Jackson Cove, on the west side of Chamberlain Bay, is a secure 
 harbor for small craft. The entrance has a least width of about 50 
 yards and a depth of about 12 feet; at the narrowest part of the en- 
 trance favor the north side. The upper half of the cove has rocks 
 on both sides, and a careful mid-channel course should be followed. 
 Anchorage can be selected in the lower part of the cove, in 10 to 15 
 fathoms, also about 350 yards from the head, in about 5 fathoms. A 
 divide about 75 feet high extends through to Jackson Hole. 
 
 Naked, Peak, and Storey Islands form a group about 8 miles long 
 north and south, with a greatest width of 6 miles, are 700 to 1,317 feet 
 high, and are wooded to the summits. A small wooded island lies 
 % mile off the south side of Naked Island. 
 
 The bottom in the vicinity of the islands, including the passages 
 among them, is rocky and exceedingly broken. As a measure of 
 safety it is considered advisable for vessels, especially large ones, to 
 avoid areas with depths less than about 20 fathoms in the vicinity of 
 the islands and to avoid the passages between the islands. 
 
 A sunken rock with about 6 feet over it at low water was reported 
 between Naked Island and Smith Island, the position, however, being 
 very doubtful. It is possible that the rock may exist in the vicinity 
 of the broken ground shown on the chart near Naked Island and 
 Smith Island. It is safer, therefore, for vessels to keep in the deeper 
 part of the passage, preferably outside the 50-fathom curve. See 
 the directions for Passage Canal from Hinchinbrook Entrance. 
 
 The anchorages about Naked Island are indifferent. Large vessels 
 can anchor in the southerly part of the large bay on the north side of 
 Naked Island, in 20 to 30 fathoms; and small vessels can anchor in 
 the easterly bight of this bay in 15 to 20 fathoms. 
 
 Small vessels can anchor in the cove on the east side of the bay on 
 the south side of Naked Island, also at the north end of the bay, in 
 about 16 fathoms. 
 
 The southerly bay on the west side of Naked Island has anchorage 
 for large vessels in the outer bight on its southeast side, in about 25 
 fathoms, avoiding, however, the 14-fathom sounding shown on the 
 chart just southwestward of the anchorage. Small vessels can anchor 
 at the southeast end of the inner bight, in 18 to 20 fathoms. 
 
52 PKINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 Small craft can anchor in the small bight on the southwest side of 
 Peak Island, also between Storey Island and the small island close to 
 its southeast side. The entrance to the latter anchorage is from 
 south westward, between the small island and the islet between it 
 and Storey Island; and the islet must be kept close aboard to avoid a 
 reef extending from the small island. A reef bare at low water 
 extends, also, southward and southeastward from the small island, 
 as shown on the chart. 
 
 Smith Island is 3 miles long, wooded, about 500 feet high, and 
 lowest at its southwest end. The northeast point of the island is 
 marked by a light. A bank with depths of 34 fathoms or less extends 
 3 miles northeastward from Smith Island; depths of 11 and 12 
 fathoms, rocky bottom, were found on the bank for a distance of 1 
 mile from the island, but it has not been thoroughly developed and 
 at least this part of the bank should be avoided. 
 
 Little Smith Island, bluff, wooded, and about 350 feet high, lies y% 
 mile off the southwest end of Smith Island. Rocky patches, on which 
 the least depth found is 8 fathoms, lie 1)4 miles northwestward and 
 north-northwestward of Little Smith Island. 
 
 Seal Island is about % mile in diameter, wooded, about 350 feet 
 high, and rounded in outline. There are two bare, rocky islets close 
 to its eastern end, and a small bare rock about 200 yards off its west 
 end. The northwest point of the island is marked by a light. Rocky, 
 broken areas extend 1 mile northeastward and northward from Seal 
 Island. The least depth is 2 fathoms on the northwest end of the 
 broken areas, lying 1 mile northward of the light, and is marked by 
 a buoy. 
 
 The reef between Seal Island and Green Island is described with 
 the latter. 
 
 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND, NORTHWEST PART. 
 
 The principal approaches to Passage Canal and the canal itself 
 have been surveyed, and offer little difficulty for navigation with the 
 aid of the chart. These waters, including the Knight Island group 
 and both shores of Knight Island Passage, are characterized bv rocky 
 and exceedingly broken bottom. Differences in depth of 50 fathoms 
 between adjacent soundings are not uncommon, and it is probable 
 that on the broken areas there may be less water, and possibly dangers, 
 not obtained by the survey. As a measure of safety, vessels should 
 avoid broken areas in these waters where abrupt changes in depth 
 are indicated by the chart to depths less than 50 fathoms. 
 
 lone Island is 2% miles long, wooded, comparatively level, and 
 553 feet high. Foul ground extends nearly J^ mile northward, and 
 a bank on which 21 fathoms was found, extends 1 mile northward 
 from the island. Broken ground, on which the least depths found 
 are 11 to 16 fathoms, extends IJ^j miles southward from the island. 
 
 Dutch Group are several wooded islands and bare rocks, the largest 
 having elevations up to 150 feet. Foul ground extends 1J^ miles 
 southward of the group to two prominent rocks about 5 to 10 feet 
 
 high- 
 Fool Island is wooded and about 50 feet high. A rock bare at low 
 
 water lies 600 yards south-southeastward of Fool Island. 
 
 Egg Rocks are prominent, bare rocks, except for some grass, and 
 
 lie 1 miles westward of Fool Island. 
 
PEINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 53 
 
 Perry Island is wooded to a height of about 1,000 feet, and is 
 
 Erominently marked on its northeast side by a round peak 1,618 feet 
 igh, the summit of which is small, bare, and dome shaped. The 
 bays indenting the island are anchorages for small craft only, on 
 account of the foul, rocky, and broken bottom. 
 
 Foul ground extends ^ mile eastward from the easterly end of 
 Perry Island, and nearly 1 mile southeastward and southward from 
 the southeast point of the island. 
 
 The bay indenting the southeast side of Perry Island has an indif- 
 ferent anchorage at the head for small craft. On account of the 
 broken bottom care should be exercised, especially in the vicinity of 
 the 13 and 17 fathom soundings shown on chart 8517 (1915 edition). 
 
 East Twin Bay, indenting the north side of Perry Island, has 
 anchorage for small craft on the southwest side of the head, in about 
 11 fathoms, the area of soft bottom being small. A mid-channel 
 course should be followed until up with a prominent rock about 20 
 feet high, which lies near the middle % mile from the head. Pass 
 northeastward of that rock and follow the northeast shore at a dis- 
 tance of about 150 yards. A rock with 6 feet over it lies 450 yards 
 135 true (ESE ^ E mag.) from the prominent rock and 275 yards 
 from the northeast shore. 
 
 West Twin Bay, indenting the northwest side of Perry Island, is 
 not an anchorage on account of the rocky, broken bottom. Small 
 craft entering should favor the northeast side to the narrow part 
 134 miles from the head, and then favor the southwest side, passing 
 westward of a rock, about 25 feet high, which lies near the middle 
 y% mile from the head. 
 
 From the point on the southwest side at the entrance of West 
 Twin Bay a chain of islets and foul ground extends over 1 mile north- 
 westward, its end on which the least depth found is 6 fathoms, lying 
 Y% mile northwestward of the outer islet. 
 
 Esther Island is mountainous, wooded to a height of about 1,000 
 feet, and the summits are bare rock. The peak, 2,019 feet high, on 
 the southeast point of Esther Island, and the sharp, twin peaks 
 1,821 and 1,822 feet high, on the southwest point, are prominent. 
 
 Esther Rock, lying 1 mile westward of Esther Point, Esther Island, 
 is about 15 feet high and bare except for some grass. A rocky area 
 with depths less than 50 fathoms extends % mile northward and 
 eastward and y% mile southeastward and southward from Esther 
 Rock. 
 
 A rock, bare at lowest tides, is reported to lie about % mile off 
 the south point of the bay (locally called Granite Bay) on the west 
 side of Esther Island. 
 
 Culross Island is mountainous and wooded to a height of about 
 1,000 feet. 
 
 Culross Bay, indenting the north side of Culross Island, is clear, 
 but is a poor anchorage. The prevailing northeast winds send con- 
 siderable swell up the bay. A small area of mud bottom is found 
 near the head; it appears to be a soft, thin layer over rock, and 
 anchors do not hold well in it. 
 
 Port Wells, Cochrane Bay, and Blackstone Bay are not surveyed, 
 some sounding having been done by exploring parties as shown on 
 the chart. Some mining development has been done on Port Wells. 
 
54 POUT WELLS. 
 
 Hobo Bay is on the west side of Port Wells just northward of 
 Bettles Bay. A mining company has a wharf on the north side of 
 the bay, with a depth of about 19 feet at its end. A bar with a depth 
 of about 5 fathoms extends across the entrance of the bay. Vessels 
 entering follow the north side of the bay at a reported distance of 
 100 yards. It is reported also that there is good anchorage in the 
 bay, in 6 to 7 fathoms. 
 
 Golden is a mining camp on the eastern shore of Port Wells, about 
 1 mile northward of the junction with Esther Passage. Steamers 
 anchor 200 to 300 yards southward of the little island off Golden, in 
 about 20 fathoms, rocky bottom. It is regarded as a poor anchorage, 
 and it is probable that the anchor will not hold with strong winds 
 drawing down the canal. The area between the island and the 
 shore is bare at low water. 
 
 PASSAGE CANAL 
 
 has its entrance at the southwest end of Port Wells between Point 
 Pigot and the peninsula separating Cochrane and Blackstone Bays. 
 The canal trends west-northwestward for 4 miles, and then south- 
 westward for 8 miles. 
 
 The canal is 1 to l]4 miles wide, has great depth and is clear 
 except a very few places near the shores. The shores rise abruptly 
 to elevations of 2,000 to 4,000 feet, and are wooded to an elevation 
 of about 1,000 feet. The higher peaks are bare or snow-covered rock. 
 
 Point Pigot is a peninsula lying between Pigot Bay and Passage 
 Canal, and across it low divides extend from Entry Cove and Logging 
 Camp Bay. A high-water islet about 50 feet high marks the south 
 end of the point. 
 
 A rock, bare at lowest tides, lies M mu<e on? ^ ne east en d of Point 
 Pigot and % mile 73 true (NE mag.) of the high-water islet at the 
 south end of the point. 
 
 Entry Cove lies westward of the south end of Point Pigot. Good 
 anchorage with a clear width of 300 yards can be had in the entrance, 
 in 14 fathoms, soft bottom. The only danger is a rock bare at low 
 water which lies 150 yards westward of the high-water islet and the 
 same distance from shore. 
 
 Passage Bay, on the south side of the canal 6 miles above Point 
 Pigot, has depths of 30 to 35 fathoms, muddy bottom, through the 
 middle. Foul ground fills the narrow parts at the head of the bay; 
 approaching slowly, u small vessel can select anchorage just below 
 this foul ground, in 15 to 20 fathoms. 
 
 The bight on the southeast side of Passage Bay is obstructed near 
 the middle, about on the line joining the points of the bight, by a 
 rock with 4 feet over it. Anchorage with a clear width of J4 mile 
 can be had in the northeasterly part of this bight, with the westerly 
 point of the bay in range with the point beyond, bearing 322 true 
 (NW by W % W mag.), in 15 to 20 fathoms, muddy bottom. 
 
 Anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms, sticky bottom, can be had on the 
 shoal which is about % mile long and extends M m il e from the south 
 side of the canal at a point 1 mile above Emerald Isle and 3^ miles 
 from the head. The least depth found by a careful examination is 
 29 feet at the southwest end of the shoal. 
 
PASSAGE CANAL. 55 
 
 Small craft can anchor in the cove at the northwest end of the head 
 of the canal, in 6 to 12 fathoms. 
 
 The currents in Passage Canal have little velocity. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, PASSAGE CANAL. 
 
 From Northeastward. Passing southward of Glacier Island and 
 northward of Storey Island, a course can be shaped for the highest 
 peak of Perry Island, which will lead southward of the two bare rocks 
 southward of the Dutch Group. Or, a 250 true (SW % S mag.) course 
 for the peak of Perry Island will lead % m ile southeastward of the 
 two bare rocks southward of the Dutch Group, and a 270 true (SW by 
 W y% W mag.) course for the peak of Perry Island will lead outside 
 the 50-fathom curve on the shoal northward of Lone Island. 
 
 Pass J/2 to % mile southward of the two bare rocks southward of 
 the Dutch Group, and steer about 293 true (W i^g S mag.) for about 
 
 4 miles, heading for the southwest point of Esther Island, to a posi- 
 tion J4 mile northward of Point Perry, the north end of Perry Island. 
 A 280 true (WSW % W mag.) course for 12 miles will then lead to 
 the middle of the entrance of Passage Canal, passing % mile north- 
 ward of Point Culross. 
 
 From Hinchinbrook Entrance. Passing 2 miles southwestward of 
 Cape Hinchinbrook lighthouse steer. 323 true (NW by W % W 
 mag.) for 25 miles, heading for the 1,235-foot peak on the east side of 
 Naked Island until Smith Island light is abeam, distant 3^ miles. 
 Then steer 275 true (WSW mag.) for 7 miles heading for Point 
 Eleanor until the w r est end of Naked Island opens from its south point. 
 
 Then steer 319 true (WNW y s W mag.) for 11 miles heading for 
 the north island of the Dutch Group until the northwest point of 
 Lone Island is abeam distant \y 2 miles. Then steer 286 true (W by 
 
 5 mag.) for 3J^ miles heading for Point Perry to a position }/% mile 
 southward of two bare rocks southward of the Dutch Group. 
 
 From Knight Island Passage. From a mid-channel position in 
 Knight Island Passage between Herring Point and Crafton Island, 
 steer 336 true (NW % W mag.), passing % mile off the southwest 
 point of Perry Island. This point is composed of light cobble stones 
 and is prominent on account of this light color. Continue the course 
 for nearly 18 miles, give the northeasterly end of Culross Island and 
 Point Culross a berth of % mile in rounding the island, and steer 280 
 true (WSW j^s W mag.) to the middle of the entrance of Passage 
 Canal. 
 
 KNIGHT ISLAND AND ASSOCIATED ISLANDS. 
 
 Knight Island is 22 miles long and very rugged, the peaks having 
 elevations up to 3,280 feet. It is wooded to an elevation of about 
 1,000 feet, and above this is grass covered. Three mountainous, 
 sparsely wooded islands, called Disk, Ingot, and Eleanor, extend 6 
 miles northward from Knight Island to Point Eleanor, the north 
 end of the group. 
 
 Eleanor Island is about 4 miles long, has elevations up to 834 feet, 
 and bluff, rugged shores. Broken ground extends J mile north- 
 ward and northwestward from Point Eleanor. The bay on the north- 
 wost side of Eleanor Island is deep and clear. There is anchorage 
 
56 KNIGHT ISLAND GROUP. 
 
 for small vessels in the south arm, about y% mile from the head, in 
 about 20 fathoms. 
 
 Near the eastern point of Eleanor Island, 2 miles southeastward 
 of Point Eleanor, there is a rocky islet with a few trees and foul 
 ground inside of it. A bare rock lying J4 mu * e southeastward of the 
 islet should be given a berth of 34 mile. 
 
 A group of prominent bare rocks, close together and about 12 feet 
 high, lie over 34 m ile off the southeastern point of Eleanor Island 
 and 3 miles southeastward of Point Eleanor. There is broken ground, 
 with depths of 6 to 7 fathoms, between them and Eleanor Island. A 
 bare rock about 5 feet high lies 34 mile southward of the group of 
 bare rocks; it should be given a berth of over 34 mile when southeast- 
 ward of it. 
 
 Upper Passage, separating Eleanor and Ingot Islands, is generally 
 deep and suitable for small craft. An island, 1 mile long and its 
 northern end joined at low water to Eleanor Island, lies in the pas- 
 sage. In the narrowest part of the passage between this island and 
 Ingot Island, favor, if anything, the northeast side of the channel. A 
 ledge, with 5 fathoms over it, possibly less, lies in the middle of the 
 southeastern entrance of Upper Passage 600 yards southeastward 
 from the southern end of the island in the passage. 
 
 Entrance Island, a prominent wooded island, 269 feet high and 
 with deep water all around it, kes 600 yards southward from Eleanor 
 Island and on the northern side at the southeastern entrance of Upper 
 Passage. 
 
 Sphinx Island, a larger and higher wooded island, lies ^ mile south- 
 ward of Entrance Island and % mile eastward of Ingot Island ; there 
 is deep water all around it. 
 
 Ingot Island, lying between Upper and Lower Passages, is 4 miles 
 long, over 1 mile wide, and 1,114 feet high. A prominent wooded 
 island 246 feet high lies 34 m il e ff ^ ne northwest end of Ingot Island. 
 
 Disk Island, on the northeastern side of Lower Passage, is about 1 
 mile in diameter and 677 feet high. The narrow channel between it 
 and Ingot Island is blocked by reefs. A bay with two narrow entrances 
 makes into the southwest side of the island. The main entrance is 
 50 yards wide with a depth of 3 fathoms, and there is a depth of 13 
 fathoms in the bay. 
 
 Two small bare rocks, close together and nearly awash at high 
 water, lie 34 m ile 115 true (E 34 N mag.) from the southeast point 
 of Ingot Island, with deep water between. The rocks should be 
 given a berth of 34 mn * e when northeastward of them. A rock, with 
 334 fathoms on it and which should be avoided, lies 34 m ^ e 109 true 
 (Ei % N mag.) from the bare rocks, with broken ground between. 
 
 Lower Passage is a deep navigable channel, suitable for small ves- 
 sels, at the northern end of Knight Island, between it and Disk and 
 Ingot Islands. A ledge, on which the least depth obtained is 4 fath- 
 oms, extends 300 yards northward from the turning point on the 
 south side of Lower Passage southeastward from Disk Island. Broken 
 ground, on which the least depth obtained is 634 fathoms, extends 
 into the passage 400 yards from the southwest shore just northwest- 
 ward of the entrance of Louis Bay. A rock, bare at half tide, lies 350 
 yards from the western shore, % mile inside the northwest end of 
 the passage. There is foul ground from this rock to the head of the 
 cove 34 m ile southward. 
 
KNIGHT ISLAND. 57 
 
 A rock with 4J^ fathoms, possibly less, lies nearly % mile northwest- 
 ward from the northern end of Disk Island. Another rock with 5 
 fathoms over it lies nearly ^ mile from Ingot Island and over % mile 
 42 true (N by E % E mag.) from the southern point at the north- 
 western entrance of Lower Passage. These rocks are weh 1 out of the 
 usual track of vessels going through Lower Passage. 
 
 Entering Lower Passage from eastward, vessels should pass south- 
 ward of the two small outlying bare rocks (see the description pre- 
 ceding). Give the prominent turning point on the south side of the 
 passage southeastward of Disk Island a berth of 300 yards when 
 northward of it, and follow the southern side of Disk Island at about 
 that distance until up with its southwestern end. Then steer 349 
 true (NW ^ N mag.) and pass about % mile northeastward from 
 the southern point at the northwestern end of the passage. 
 
 louis Bay, at the southern end about halfway through Lower 
 Passage, is ^ mile wide at the entrance, and affords anchorage for 
 small vessels 250 to 300 yards from the head of either of its two arms 
 in about 15 fathoms. The western arm is clear so far as known. 
 
 The eastern arm of Louis Bay has a very broken bottom, and small 
 vessels entering should proceed with caution. A rock with a depth 
 of 5 feet lies 175 yards from the eastern shore and 350 yards northward 
 from the entrance of the eastern arm. The eastern arm is J/g to M 
 mile wide; a ledge makes out about 30 yards from the western point 
 (a wooded islet) at the entrance. When inside the entranc$ u of the 
 eastern arm, favor the western side to avoid three rocks which are 
 bare at lowest tides; one lies 100 yards off a point on the east side 
 300 yards northward of the houses at the head; the other two lie 225 
 yards northward of the same point and the same distance from the 
 east side. 
 
 Bay of Isles is on the eastern side of Knight Island, 260 true 
 (SW y% W mag.) from Seal Island. It has numerous islets and pin- 
 nacle rocks, sunken and awash, and is suitable only for small vessels, 
 proceeding with caution and preferably at low water. There is 
 secure anchorage in the South and North Arms, the latter being easier 
 of access. The depths in the bay are great, and the deep water ex- 
 tends close to the rocks, which are not marked by kelp. 
 
 To enter Bay of Isles, steer 260 true (SW % W mag.) with Seal 
 Island astern, and pass in mid-channel northward of the islets lying 
 in the middle of the bay. Continue the course J^ mile past the islets, 
 and then steer 221 true (S by W M W" mag.), and pass in mid- 
 channel westward of the islands near the southern shore. Then steer 
 about 269 true (SW by W }^ W mag.), and keep the northern shore 
 aboard distant about 150 yards in entering North Arm. Anchor in 
 the middle of the broad part of the arm in 9 to 11 fathoms. 
 
 Foul ground extends y% mile southeastward from the northern point 
 in the approach to Bav of Isles. At the end of the foul ground is a 
 rock with 10 feet over it, lying % mile 73 true (NE mag.) from an 
 island near the northern shore. The tangent to the shore southward 
 of Bay of Isles in line with the eastern shore of Knight Island south- 
 ward of Snug Harbor, bearing 197 true (S by E mag.), leads east- 
 ward of the foul ground. 
 
 Manning Rocks lie about 2 miles off the entrance of Bay of Isles. 
 They are three pinnacles, with depths of 5, 9, and 23 feet on the south, 
 middle, and north one, respectively, the distance between the end 
 
58 KNIGHT ISLAND. 
 
 ones being Y% mile. They are surrounded by deep water, and are 
 the worst danger on the east side of Knight Island. Between Man- 
 ning Rocks and the foul ground in the entrance of Bay of Isles the 
 bottom is very irregular, although the least depth found is 8 J^ fathoms ; 
 this area should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 Marsha Bay, 4% miles southward of Bay of Isles, has a crooked 
 narrow entrance, and is suitable only for small craft. The depths are 
 great except at its north end, where anchorage can be selected in 
 15 fathoms or less. The entrance is between two sunken rocks, and 
 the channel then leads southward of the islands which choke the 
 mouth of the bay. Enter in mid-channel between the outer island 
 and the south point of the bay on a 252 true (SW mag.) course, 
 and then favor the south point of the islands when passing through 
 the narrowest Dart of the channel. 
 
 Snug Harbor is on the east side of Knight Island 6 to 7 miles north- 
 ward of Point Helen. Its western arm is % mile wide and clear 
 near mid-channel, and is a secure anchorage at its head in 12 to 17 
 fathoms. Anchorage, exposed to northerly and northeasterly winds, 
 can be had in the broad cove on the south side in the entrance of the 
 harbor in 12 to 15 fathoms, rocky bottom. 
 
 Hogan Bay, on the east side of Knight Island 2J^ miles northward 
 of Point Helen, has anchorage in the middle, j^J m il e inside the 
 entrance, in 16 to 20 fathoms. The bottom is rocky and uneven, 
 and the anchorage is exposed eastward. Small craft can pass 
 through the narrow channel at the head of the bay and find secure 
 anchorage in the inner cove in 12 fathoms or less. The spit on the 
 southwest side of the channel is bold, and should be favored when 
 entering the inner cove. 
 
 KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE, 
 
 on the west and south sides of Knight Island, is used by vessels 
 calling at Drier and other bays on the west side of Knight Island. 
 With easterly winds it offers a smoother channel from Latouche 
 Passage to the northern end of the Naked Island group than the 
 generally used route eastward of Knight Island. 
 
 From its no them entrance between Herring Point and Graf ton 
 Island, where it is 5 miles wide, it extends 16 miles in a 196 true (S 
 by E mag.) direction to Pleiades Islands, with a least width of 2 
 miles at the southeast end of Chenega Island. The channel leads 
 eastward of the Pleiades, where it is 1M miles wide between them 
 and Point of Rocks. From these islands the passage has a 135 true 
 (ESE y% E mag.) direction for 10 miles, with widths of 3 to 4 miles, 
 to Montague Strait between Point Helen and the north end of 
 Latouche Island. 
 
 The depths in the passage range from 150 to 400 fathoms. The 
 west side is generally bold, with the exception of the bight between 
 Crafton Island and Point Nowell, which is foul. From Pleiades 
 Islands to 5 miles southward of Herring Point the eastern shore is 
 foul for % mile off, many islands, rocks, and reefs being found in it. 
 
 There are no good anchorages in the bays on the west side of 
 Knight Island. Small craft can anchor in nearly all the arms of the 
 bays, but the bottom is generally rocky. 
 
KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. 59 
 
 Main Bay, on the west shore southeastward of Port Nellie Juan, 
 is deep and generally clear away from the shores, but affords no 
 anchorage. Foul ground makes off the entrance points, especially 
 from the northwest side, as shown on chart 8517. 
 
 Falls Bay affords no anchorage and is open to the prevailing 
 northeasterly weather. The main body of the bay is clear and deep. 
 Rocks make out from the points at the entrance, contracting it to a 
 width of 34 m ile m which the least depth found is about 12 fathoms. 
 
 Crafton Island is 1 mile long and wooded. At its north end are 
 rocky bluffs about 100 feet high, while its southern part is lower and 
 has sandy beaches in places. Two low islets with sandy beaches 
 lie off its south end. 
 
 Crafton Island is surrounded by foul ground to a distance of about 
 y% mile on its east and south sides, where no sounding has been done. 
 An exceedingly broken area extends over 2 miles southeastward from 
 the island ; and a rock, bare at about half tide, lies 1 mile east-south- 
 eastward from the south end of the islands. Vessels should avoid 
 all broken areas in this vicinityon which depths less than about 50 
 fathoms have been found. 
 
 The passage westward of Crafton Island is foul along the shore of 
 the islands and at its south entrance. Three rocks bare at low 
 water lie in the middle of the south entrance. This passage should 
 be used only by small craft, proceeding with care and preferably 
 at low water; the channel favors the west shore from the south 
 entrance until abreast the middle of Crafton Island. 
 
 The clearer channel to Eshamy Bay follows the shore northward 
 from Point Nowell and has a width of about % mile. Differences 
 in depth of 50 fathoms between adjacent soundings are not uncom- 
 mon in this locality. Foul ground extends 350 yards northwest- 
 ward, and rocky broken ground, on which the least depth found is 
 14 fathoms, extends % mile northward from the south point at the 
 entrance of Eshamy Bay. 
 
 Eshamy Bay, at the head of the bight between Point Nowell and 
 Crafton Island, affords no anchorage for vessels. Small craft can 
 find secure anchorage, in 8 to 11 fathoms, in the small cove back of 
 the islands and rocks in the southeast corner of the bay. The better 
 entrance is through the middle of the deep, narrow channel between 
 the small islands and the eastern shore. Eshamy Lagoon, with a 
 saltery at its head, extends westward from Eshamy Bay, but its foul 
 entrance with strong currents renders it not available for strangers. 
 
 Point Nowell, 4)^ miles from Crafton Island, is a small wooded 
 hook, about 50 feet high, back of which the land rises abruptly to 
 about 1,600 feet. The cove on the south side of Point Nowell is about 
 300 yards in diameter and apparently clear, and affords anchorage 
 for small craft in about 5 fathoms. 
 
 Dangerous Passage, on the west side of Chenega Island, has rocks 
 bare at low water near mid-channel in its northern entrance, and 
 appears foul. 
 
 Chenega Island, on the west side of Knight Island Passage, is 7 
 miles long and 1,800 to 2,000 feet high. Close to the north end of 
 the island is a low, wooded island, with several islets on its northwest 
 side. There is a prominent landslide at the south end of Chenega 
 Island over the small Indian village of Chenega, and two low, wooded 
 islets close to the shore off the village. 
 
60 KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. 
 
 Herring Bay, at the northwest end of Knight Island, is 4 miles long 
 from Herring Point to the head of its southeast and south arms, and 
 1 to 2 miles wide except in the arms. The bay has no desirable an- 
 chorage, and is characterized by much foul ground and very broken 
 bottom, with deep water extending close to the shores and dangers. 
 Vessels navigating the bay should proceed with caution, especially in 
 the vicinity of broken areas with depths less than about 20 fathoms, 
 and preferably at low water. The entrance is clear except along the 
 eastern shore, which is foul. A prominent rock about 4 feet high lies 
 near the middle 1J^ miles southeastward of Herring Point; the best 
 channel to the upper part of the bay is eastward of the rock. Water 
 can be obtained from a fall in the southeast arm. 
 
 Herring Point is the north end of a narrow ridge, about 1,000 feet 
 high, forming the west side of Herring Bay. 
 
 Channel Rock, a prominent bare, black rock about 6 feet high, lies 
 nearly 1 mile off the entrance of Lower Herring Bay, and is a good 
 mark for Knight Island Passage. A rock bare at low water lies 1 % 
 miles 25 true (N M W mag.) from Channel Rock and % mile from 
 the shore of Knight Island; from this rock southward the eastern 
 side of Knight Island is very broken and foul, with deep water extend- 
 ing close to the dangers, as shown on the chart. 
 
 Lower Herring Bay is not an anchorage for vessels, and is suitable 
 only for small craft. The best entrance is eastward of Channel Rock, 
 avoiding the rocky patch with depths of 17 to 22 fathoms lying 
 between Channel Rock and the south point of the bay. The 
 principal danger in the bay is a rock bare at three-quarters ebb 
 which lies in the middle 600 yards from the eastern end of the bay. 
 The passage between this rock and the point northward (lying 
 between the two arms) should be used with caution. A midchannel 
 course should be followed in the arms. Small craft can anchor in 
 the cove on the south side 1% miles inside the entrance of the bay, 
 in not less than about 10 fathoms; water can be conveniently ob- 
 tained in this cove from a fall. 
 
 A narrow deep passage, suitable for small craft, follows the shore 
 inside the islands between Lower Herring and Johnson Bays. Strangers 
 should take it at low water and exercise care. 
 
 Johnson Bay is suitable only for small craft; strangers should enter 
 at low water only, and proceed with caution in the vicinity of all 
 broken ground. There is a wooded island in the mouth of the bay. 
 The entrance is northward of the island, is about 125 yards wide 
 between reefs bare at low water, and the axis of the channel is about 
 125 yards from the north shore on a 125 true (E ^g S mag.) course. 
 From Knight Island Passage a 98 true (ENE M E mag.) course for 
 the north point at the entrance in range with a pyramidal peak of 
 black rock (2,090 feet high) above the head of the bay will lead 
 between the outlying dangers to the entrance. Water can be obtained 
 from a fall near the head. 
 
 Squirrel Island, 9^ miles southward of Herring Point and % mile 
 from the eastern shore, is the northernmost of the islands extending 
 1^2 miles northward of the entrance to Drier Bay. It is Y% mile long, 
 180 feet high, and wooded. 
 
 Drier Bay is described under a separate heading following. 
 
 Southward of Drier Bay there are two large islands on the east side 
 of Knight Island Passage, separated from Knight Island by Long 
 
KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. 61 
 
 Channel. Mummy Island is described under Drier Bay. Squire 
 Island, the southern one, is 3 miles long and about 1,000 feet high. 
 A ledge, bare at low water, lies 34 mile southward from the south end 
 of Squire Island. Two islands lie J4 mile off the west side of Squire 
 Island, and from these islands a large reef extends % mile westward 
 to Point of Rocks, the latter awash at high water. The channel 
 between Mummy and Squire Islands leading into Long Channel has 
 rocky, broken bottom, and should be used with caution. 
 
 Long Channel is a deep inside passage for small craft from Drier Bay 
 to the southern part of Knight Island Passage. It is 4J/2 miles long 
 and the mid-channel is clear so far as known. The channel is gen- 
 erally H to % mile wide, but narrows to 175 yards abreast Mummy 
 Island and to 250 yards % mile from the north end of Squire Island.. 
 A rock, covered at high water, lies in the northern entrance J^ mile 
 88 true (NE by E y% E mag.) from the north end of Mummy 
 Island. The tidal currents have little velocity. 
 
 From southward, the mid-channel courses are 22 true (N J^ W 
 mag.) for 1 mile, then 358 true (NNW 5 / 8 Wmag.) for M mile to the 
 southern end of the narrowest part of the channel abreast Squire 
 Island, then 10 true (N by W ^ W mag.) for 2 miles to the northern 
 end of the narrowest part of the channel abreast Mummy Island, and 
 then 30 true (N M E mag.) into Drier Bay. 
 
 There is a large bay on the east side of Long Channel abreast the 
 north end of Squire Island. Its entrance is very narrow and foul, 
 and suitable only for small craft with local knowledge. The tidal 
 currents have considerable velocity in the entrance. 
 
 Pleiades Islands, in the middle of Knight Island Passage, are a 
 group of 7 wooded islands 1 mile long. The southernmost and largest 
 is about 80 feet high. 
 
 Mummy Bay, in the south end of Knight Island 4 miles westward of 
 Point Helen, is about 1 mile wide and 3>2 miles long. It is deep and 
 clear, but rocks extend J mile from the .head. Small vessels can 
 anchor }4 mile from the head in 15 to 20 fathoms. The southern arm 
 on the eastern side of the bay is clear and affords anchorage for small 
 vessels in 12 to 15 fathoms. The northern arm on the eastern side 
 is an anchorage for small craft. 
 
 Little Bay, on the south side of Knight Island, 1% miles westward 
 of Point Helen, is 1 mile long, J^ mile wide, and clear so far as known. 
 The depths are 13 to 18 fathoms rocky bottom, and it is a fair anchor- 
 age except with southerly winds. 
 
 Ice. Considerable glacial ice was seen in the passage south of 
 Pleiades Islands. It comes from westward between Point Countess 
 and Chenega Island, and drifts eastward as far as Latouche Passage 
 with the ebb. 
 
 The tidal currents in Knight Island Passage have a velocity of 1 to 
 2 knots at the strength of the large tides. 
 
 DIRECTIONS. KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. 
 
 From a position \y^ miles west of Storey Island make good a 211 
 true (S J4 W mag.) course for 21 miles, passing 1*4 miles off the 
 west side of Herring Point and to a position 1 to 1 M miles eastward 
 of Point Nowell. 
 
 Then steer 196 true (S by E mag.) for Pleiades Islands with Lone 
 Island astern; having stood 7 miles on this course, New Year Islands, 
 
62 KNIGHT ISLAND PASSAGE. 
 
 on the north side at the entrance to Drier Bay, should bear about I y% 
 miles on the port beam. Continue the 196 true (S by E mag.) 
 course for 10^ miles from Point Nowell until 1)4 miles from Pleiades 
 Islands and the south tangent of Chenega Island is abeam. 
 
 Then steer 169 true (SE y% S mag.) for 2 J^ miles, passing midway 
 between Point of Rocks and the Pleiades. When the southeast end 
 of Squire Island is 1 mile on the port beam, steer 146 true (SE by 
 E i E mag.) with the north end of Pleiades Islands astern. This 
 course made good for 7 miles will lead 1J miles off the southern 
 shore of the passage and to the north entrance to Latouche Passage, 
 and the course made good for 10 miles will lead into Montague Strait. 
 
 DRIER BAY 
 
 has its main entrance between Mummy Island and New Year Islands 
 on the west side of Knight Island 11^ miles southward of Herring 
 Point and 4^ miles northward of Pleiades Islands. The bay is 5 
 miles long in a northeasterly direction and nearly 1 mile wide. The 
 southeast shore is indented by a number of bays and coves and by 
 Long Channel. 
 
 The principal known dangers in the bay are mentioned in the fol- 
 lowing description. In addition, the entire bay and approach are 
 characterized by exceedingly broken bottom, and vessels should 
 proceed with caution in the vicinity of such areas where abrupt 
 changes in depth are shown by the chart to depths less than 50 
 fathoms. 
 
 Mummy Island, on the south side at the entrance, is 1^ miles 
 long, 543 fee-t high, and wooded; there are patches of grass on the 
 southern half of the island. Reefs extend % mile southwestward 
 from the northwest end of the island, and wooded islets with reefs 
 around them extend % mile westward from the southern half of the 
 island. A rock covered at high water lies M m il e 88 true (NE by E 
 % E mag.) from the north end of the island, but is in the way only 
 when using Long Channel. A rock with 4 fathoms over it lies J 
 mile 64 time (NE % N mag.) from the north end of Mummy Island. 
 
 New Year Islands are the southernmost of the islands which extend 
 \Y% miles northward from the entrance to Drier Bay. They are 
 about 2/8 mile long, wooded, and the southern and largest one 200 
 feet high. Bare reefs extend 250 yards southward of the south island. 
 A rock bare at low water lies Ji mile 19 true (N % W mag.) from 
 the north island, and is a serious danger in the ^channel between New 
 Year Islands and the islands northward. 
 
 Clam Islands, two in number, low and wooded, lie between New 
 Year Islands and the north point of the bay. A rocky patch with 
 3% fathoms over it lies 600 yards 191 true (S by E ^ E mag.) from 
 Clam Islands, and nearly % mile 102 true (ENE % E mag.) from 
 the south end of New Year Islands. 
 
 Range Isle, small and wooded, lies close to the north side of the 
 bay and 2 miles inside New Year Islands. The line of Range Isle 
 just clear of the north shore eastward of it, bearing 75 true (NE ]4= 
 E mag.), leads about through the middle of the entrance between 
 Mummy Island and New Year Islands, and is sometimes used as a 
 range for entering the bay. 
 
DRIEK BAY. 63 
 
 Cathead Bay, on the south side 2 miles from Mummy Island, is 
 1 mile long and y to % mile wide. There are two islands in the 
 upper part of the bay. The soundings taken indicate deep w T ater, 
 but it is not thoroughly developed. In the entrance of the bay 200 
 yards from the west side is a rock with 4 feet over it. Also off the 
 entrance, % mile 50 true (NNE mag.) from Cat Head and % mile 
 191 true (S by E % E mag.) from Kange Isle, is a rock with 3^ 
 fathoms over it. When entering favor the east side to avoid these 
 rocks and then proceed with caution on either side of the islands 
 to its head. 
 
 Mallard Bay, on the south side, 2J^ miles inside Mummy Island, 
 is 1 mile long and % to % mile wide. The bay is foul for a distance 
 of % mile from its head. Approaching with care, anchorage can 
 be made % to Y 2 m il e from the head in 17 to 20 fathoms. 
 
 Barnes Cove, 4 miles inside Mummy Island and 135 true (ESE 
 }/% E mag.) from Chase Island, is obstructed by ledges at its entrance, 
 and shoals make out from the shores of the cove. Small craft entering 
 with care can find good anchorage in 8 fathoms. Vessels can anchor- 
 300 to 500 yards off the entrance in 20 to 22 fathoms. 
 
 The point on the northeast side of Barnes Cove is prominent and 
 high, with bare rocky sides. A reef extends 150 yards off the small 
 point ^ mile northeastward of this point. 
 
 Chase Island, small and wooded, lies 700 yards from the north- 
 west side of the bay and 1% miles above Range Isle. A ledge bare 
 at low water extends 300 yards southward from Chase Island. 
 
 A rock awash at half tide lies 3 /s mile 61 true (NE by N mag.) from 
 Chase Island. It is sometimes marked by a buoy. There is a rock 
 bare at extreme low water between the half-tide rock and the 
 northern shore. 
 
 Northeast Cove, on the southeast side at the head of the bay, is 
 small and has shoals at its entrance and also inside for 200 yards 
 from its head. Small craft entering with care can find good anchor- 
 age in 4 to 5 fathoms. Vessels can anchor 300 to 500 yards off the 
 entrance in 17 to 20 fathoms. 
 
 Anchorage can be selected about J4 m il e from shore in the north 
 end of the bay, in about 20 fathoms. 
 
 At the north end of the bay is the narrow entrance to a lagoon 
 which affords good anchorage for small craft in 6 to 10 fathoms. 
 There is 7 feet in the narrow entrance; a flat extends 250 yards from 
 the head. A sunken rock lies in the approach 50 yards from the 
 eastern shore and 100 yards southeastward from the narrow entrance. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, DRIER BAY. 
 
 Strangers may have some difficulty in recognizing the entrance 
 to Drier Bay, as there are several groups of islands on the east side 
 of Knight Island Passage, both north and south of the entrance. 
 Approaching from northward the island in the mouth of Johnson 
 Bay is a good mark. 
 
 From northward, follow the directions for Knight Island Passage, 
 and when 7 miles past Point Nowell the position should be midway 
 between New Year Islands and the south end of a sand beach on 
 Chenega Island. Then steer 129 true (E by S mag.) for the north 
 end of Mummy Island and pass about % mile southward of the bare 
 
64 DRIER BAY. 
 
 rocks off the south end of New Year Islands. When New Year 
 Islands are a little abaft the beam, steer 84 true (NE by E mag.) 
 and pass about y% mile northward of Mummy Island into the bay. 
 
 From southward, steer 16 true (N by W mag.) with Pleiades 
 Islands astern until about 1 mile past the southeast point of Chenega 
 Island. Then steer 64 true (NE % N mag.) with the southeast 
 point of Chenega Island astern, and pass about ^ m il e northward of 
 Mummy Island. 
 
 Entering about midway between Mummy Island and the bare 
 rocks southward of New Year Islands, steer 84 true (NE by E mag.) 
 for 3)i miles, passing J^ mile southward of Range Isle. When 400 
 yards from the southeast shore above Mallard Bay, steer 50 true 
 (NNE mag.), passing about 600 yards southeastward of Chase Island 
 and about 400 yards off the southeast shore above the island. Then 
 keep near the middle of the bay. 
 
 MONTAGUE STRAIT, 
 
 between Montague and Latouche Islands, is the broadest of the 
 passages westward of Montague Island, and passing westward of 
 Green Island offers a clear channel 4)^ miles wide from Prince William 
 Sound to the sea. It is, however, rarely used, vessels generally pass- 
 ing through Latouche and Elrington Passages. The passage between 
 Green and Montague Islands has considerable foul ground and should 
 be avoided by strangers in the absence of a survey. 
 
 From a position 1 mile westward of Seal Island a 203 true (S ^g E 
 mag.) course made good for 42 miles will lead 1 mile off the eastern 
 shore of Latouche Island, \y% miles off the western shore of Montague 
 Island near its southern end, and to a position about 2^ miles west- 
 ward of Cape Cleare. 
 
 Or, having made good the 203 true (S % E mag.) course for 30 
 miles to a position 1 mile off the eastern shore of Latouche Island 5J^ 
 miles from Point Grace, steer 230 true (SSW mag.) for 8 miles to a 
 position 2 miles southeastward from Danger Island. From this posi- 
 tion a course can be shaped as desired. (See bearings and distances 
 from Danger Island, on p. 66.) 
 
 Green Island is wooded, about 6 miles long, 520 feet high near its 
 middle, and slopes gradually to its north and south ends. The 
 vicinity of the island is very foul. Two wooded islets and numerous 
 small ones lie close to the northwest side of the northeastern half of 
 the island. Three prominent rocks 10 to 15 feet high lie 1 to 1J4 
 miles off the northwest and west sides, the southwesternmost lying 1 
 mile southwestward from the western end of the island. 
 
 An extensive reef, marked by kelp, lies midway between Green 
 Island and Seal Island. It is apparently a ridge having a northerly 
 direction for 2J^ miles, with bare rocks (about 3 feet high) at its 
 north end, and numerous sunken rocks and others which show at 
 extreme low water. The northern bare rock lies 3% miles southeast- 
 ward from Seal Island, with deep water between. Between the reef 
 and Green Island there is broken ground on which the least depth 
 found is 10 fathoms, but the area has not been completely surveyed 
 and should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 Gibbon Anchorage is a secure harbor for small craft in the cove 
 about the middle of the northwest side of Green Island. Passing 
 
MONTAGUE STRAIT. 65 
 
 600 yards southward of the outlying prominent rock which lies 1% 
 miles westward of the cove, steer 126 true (E % S mag.) for Putnam 
 Point, the prominent wooded point with a small bluff on the south- 
 west side of the cove. When about ^ mile from shore, steer more 
 eastward and pass nothing southward of midway between Putnam 
 Point and the rock awash at high water which lies 400 yards north- 
 ward of the point. When past the rock, anchor in the cove east- 
 southeastward of it, in 6 to 8 fathoms. A rock awash at half tide lies 
 175 yards north-northeastward of the point lying l / mile west-south- 
 westward of Putnam Point; and the southerly one of two rocks, bare 
 at extreme low water, lies % mile 133 true (ESE ^ E mag.) of the 
 outlying bare rock. 
 
 A^low, wooded island % mile long lies iy$ miles southward from 
 the south end of Green Island. A large reef, partly bare at low water, 
 lies % to l^s miles south-south west ward from the south end of the 
 low, wooded island. 
 
 The Needle is a flat-topped, steep-sided rock, about 75 feet high, 
 in the strait 3% miles from the nearest point of Montague Island and 
 5 y^ miles eastward from Point Helen. 
 
 Hanning Bay is on the east side of the strait, 13 miles northward of 
 Cape Cleare and 151 true (SE by E mag.) from the north end of 
 Latouche Island. It is a good anchorage with easterly winds, but is 
 exposed from northwest, through west, to southwest. It is about 2 
 miles in diameter, with depths from 7 to 22 fathoms. Shoals extend 
 nearly % mile off from the streams at the northeast and southeast 
 ends of the bay, and a reef extends nearly J^ mile from the point on 
 the eastern side. The best anchorage with southerly winds is about 
 s/8 mile from the south side, with Danger Island open from the south 
 point at the entrance bearing 258 true (SW 1 A W mag.), and the 
 north point at the entrance bearing between 5 true (NNW mag.) 
 and 348 true (NW % N mag.), in 15 to 16 fathoms, sticky bottom. 
 With northwest winds, a better berth can be had J to % mile off the 
 cove on the north side, j^ mile inside the entrance, in 5 to 8 fathoms, 
 hard bottom. When entering, give the points at the entrance a berth 
 of over % mile. 
 
 Macleod Harbor, on the east side of the strait, 6J^ miles northward 
 of Cape Cleare, is not surveyed. It is 1 % miles wide at the entrance 
 and possibly 2 miles long. The following information is from reports : 
 Vessels can anchor in 13 to 14 fathoms about % mile off the sand 
 beach on the south side in the lower part of the bay, but it is more 
 exposed to the ocean swell than Hanning Bay. The depths at the 
 entrance are 7 to 8 fathoms, and in the bay 12 to 21 fathoms. There 
 is a dangerous flat on the eastern and southeastern sides of the bay. 
 There is good anchorage for small craft and possibly very small ves- 
 sels in a cove on the north side toward the head. The cove is formed 
 by a point which is bold and should be kept aboard. The anchorage 
 is with the south point of the harbor shut in by this point, about 200 
 yards from the latter, in 4J/ fathoms. 
 
 Latouche Island is 10 miles long; and has elevations up to 2,255 feet. 
 It is wooded to an elevation of about 500 feet, and above this is cov- 
 ered with moss and bushes, except the highest peaks, which are bare 
 rocks. The eastern shore is precipitous and the 100-fathom curve less 
 than 34 mile off in places. 
 31056 16 5 
 
66 MONTAGUE STRAIT. 
 
 Danger Island, 1% miles southward of Latouche Island, is 
 in diameter, low and wooded. The island is surrounded by bare 
 rocks and kelp to a distance of ^g mile northward and southward of it, 
 and raile eastward and westward. Eastward of the island the foul 
 
 ground is not developed. There is no safe passage between it and 
 Latouche Island. A bar with depths of 6 to 11 fathoms extends 
 west-northwestward from Danger Island to Elrington Island. A 
 depth of 3^2 fathoms is found on it % mile westward of Danger- 
 Island, and 3% fathoms 700 yards from Elrington Island and 308 
 true (W by N mag.) from Danger Island. The following are bearings 
 and distances from Danger Island : 
 
 Barwell Island, off Cape Resurrection, 264 true (SW by W Y$ 
 Wmag.), 36 J^ miles. 
 
 Lone Rock, south end of Chiswell Islands, 246 true (SW J^ S 
 mag.), 51 miles. 
 
 Seal Rocks, 242 true (SW % S mag.), 53 miles. 
 
 LATOUCHE AND ELRINGTON PASSAGES, 
 
 between Latouche and Hoodoo Islands, are generally used by vessels 
 between Prince William Sound and the coast southwestward, passing 
 westward of Elrington Island. There is also considerable traffic to 
 the wharves of the copper mines on the west side of Latouche Island. 
 
 From Point Grace to the north end of Elrington Island, a distance 
 of 5 miles, Latouche Passage is about 1% miles wide, with deep water. 
 There is a wooded islet, with a grass-covered rock close to its north 
 end, near Hoodoo Island % mile northwestward of the northern 
 entrance. 
 
 Latouche Passage, east of Elrington Island, is 7 miles long and % 
 to 1 mile wide, with moderate depths, under 30 fathoms in most 
 places. Anchorage can be selected nearly anywhere in this channel 
 where the depth is suitable. At the south end the least depths 
 found are 6 to 11 fathoms on the bar between Danger and Elrington 
 Islands. 
 
 A little southward of the former Barrack's Wharf, nearly 2 miles 
 southward of Point Grace, a reef makes out over 100 yards from shore ; 
 it is sometimes marked by a barrel buoy. 
 
 Latouche, a post office on the west side of Latouche Island 2% 
 miles southward of Point Grace, has a store, and is the site of the mine 
 of the Beatson Copper Co. 
 
 The new wharf at Latouche has a depth of about 20 feet at its end, 
 and is about 200 feet long on its face. There is a rock about 100 feet 
 northward of the wharf and on the line of its face. Vessels generally 
 go to the wharf port side to, heading southward, and to leave the 
 wharf swing the bow in toward the shore and back into the passage. 
 There is a tramroad to the mine about y% mile southeastward, and 
 considerable copper ore is shipped. The cove southward of the wharf 
 is shoal, and a reef makes out about 100 yards from the point 400 
 yards southwestward of the wharf. Anchorage can be had 300 to 
 500 yards west-northwestward from the wharf in 10 to 15 fathoms. 
 
 Chicken Island, 3^ miles southward from Point Grace, is the north- 
 ern one of two small wooded islands, 2J^ miles apart, on the east side 
 of Latouche Passage. It is separated from Latouche Island by a 
 pass 350 yards wide with a depth of 4 feet. A rock with 15 feet over 
 
LATOUCHE PASSAGE. 67 
 
 it lies 300 yards off the point on the eastern shore % mile northward 
 from Chicken Island. 
 
 Horseshoe Bay is on the west side of Latouche Island, 4J^ miles 
 southward of Point Grace. Its southern half is shoal; small craft 
 or a very small vessel, entering close to the north point of the bay, 
 can anchor in its north end in 18 to 20 feet of water. Just north- 
 ward of the south point of the bay is a rock, covered at high water. 
 Vessels can anchor about % mn<e on? the entrance, in 16 to 18 fathoms. 
 
 From a little southward of Horseshoe Bay to the southern island 
 in Latouche Passage the eastern side has broken ground and kelp 
 in places, and should be given a berth of 2^ mile. The passage east- 
 ward of the southern island is % mile wide, with much kelp, and 
 should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 On the west side of Latouche Passage is a long bay separated from 
 Elrington Passage by several high, wooded islands. The bay has 
 deep water but is not thoroughly developed. At the southwest 
 end of the bay is a cascade, which shows from Latouche Passage. 
 
 Elrington Passage, on the west" side of Elrington Island, is 8 miles 
 long, y<i to 1 mile wide, deep and clear. Anchorage is not easily 
 found on account of the great depths. 
 
 A grass-covered rock, about 10 feet high and with some brush on 
 its summit, lies close to the west side of Elrington Island 4 miles 
 from its north end. 
 
 In the southeast angle of the passage 1% miles southward of this 
 rock there is anchorage in 5 to 20 fathoms, muddy bottom, depend- 
 ing on the swinging room required. 
 
 An island % mile in diameter and 500 feet high lies in the bend 
 at the south end of the passage close to Elrington Island, from which 
 its southeast point is separated by a narrow pass dry at low water. 
 
 A pyramidal, pinnacle rock, about 8 feet high and with grass on top, 
 lies about 250 yards off the north point at the southwest entrance 
 of Elrington Passage. 
 
 Procession Rocks, near the south end of Bainbridge Island, 3J4 
 miles westward of the southwest entrance of Elrington Passage, are 
 a good mark. They are a small cluster of rugged rocks, the three 
 largest about 35 feet high. 
 
 Elrington Island, which divides Latouche Passage from Elring- 
 ton Passage, is 10 miles long, about 1 mile wide, and has a greatest 
 elevation of 1,967 feet. The general tree line is about 500 feet high, 
 and the higher peaks are precipitous and bare. The southwest end 
 of the island is 2J^ miles across in a northerly and southerly direc- 
 tion and is formed by three high, prominent points with two long 
 bays between. Both bays are clear and afford anchorage. The 
 southern one has the best shelter, with depths from 17 to 20 fathoms, 
 but is exposed to southwesterly and westerly winds. 
 
 Point Elrington, the southwest end of Elrington Island, is a small 
 hill, 515 feet high and wooded, with cliffs at the water, and is joined 
 to the island by a sand and gravel neck just above high water. A 
 hill, 1 ,050 feet high, lying 1 J miles eastward of the point, has a low 
 divide about 100 feet high at its east end. It is marked at its westerly 
 end by Point Elrington light. 
 
 The north point at the southwest end of Elrington Island is a 
 hill 1,116 feet high and 1% miles long. At its southeast end it is 
 connected with the island by a long, low, wooded neck. 
 
68 PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, LATOUCHE AND ELRINGTON PASSAGES. 
 
 To go through Latouche Passage. From a position % to 1 mile 
 eastward of Point Helen light steer 230 true (SSW mag.) for 5 miles 
 to a position with Point Grace on theport beam distant % to 1 mile. 
 Then steer 221 true (S by W ^ W mag.) for 6 miles to a mid- 
 channel position abreast the southern island in Latouche Passage. 
 Then steer 207 true (S mag.) for 2 miles, following the western shore 
 at a distance of about ^ mile. Then bring the southern island in 
 Latouche Passage open half its width westward of Chicken Island, 
 and steer out of the passage on this line, course 220 true (S by W 
 Y% W mag.) for about 4 miles, which leads in the deepest water (about 
 11 fathoms) over the bar between Danger and Elrington islands. 
 
 To go through Elrington Passage. From a position % to 1 mile 
 eastward of Point Helen light steer 230 true (SSW mag.) for 9^ 
 miles, passing about % mile off the western shore of Latouche Island 
 and to a position y% mile eastward of Bet ties Island. When Elring- 
 ton Passage light opens southward of Bettles Island, change course 
 gradually to about 263 true (SW by W mag.) and pass in mid-chan- 
 nel between Bettles Island and the north end of Elrington Island. 
 
 When J4 mile westward of Elrington Island steer 219 true (S by 
 W mag.) in mid-channel for 4J miles, with Elrington Passage light 
 astern. When Lone Tree Point light opens from the south end of 
 Hoodoo Island, haul gradually westward, pass in mid-channel south- 
 ward of Hoodoo Island, steer 286 true (W by S mag.), and pass 
 about y% mile northward of Lone Tree Point light. Round the south 
 point at the entrance at a distance of about J^ mile and steer 229 true 
 (S by W % W mag.) about 8 miles to a position 3 miles 168 true 
 (SE l /2 S mag.) from Cape Puget. From this position the courses 
 and distances to Resurrection Bay and Seal Rocks are given on 
 page 26. 
 
 PRINCE OF WALES PASSAGE, 
 
 between Hoodoo and Bainbridge Islands, is between 10 and 11 miles 
 long and from y^ to 2 miles wide. It offers a direct route for vessels 
 from northward in Knight Island Passage bound south west ward 
 along the coast; otherwise Elrington Passage is more direct and is 
 generally used. 
 
 Prince of Wales Passage has a number of dangers and other broken 
 ground, but no trouble should be had in going through it in daylight 
 and clear weather, with the aid of the chart. The principal channel is 
 eastward of Flemming Island, and then westward of the group of bare 
 rocks lying 1J^ miles south-southeastward of Flemming Island. 
 When passing the broken ground lying 4 miles southward of Flem- 
 ming Island, follow the western shore at a distance of 300 to 500 
 yards, heading for the prominent low, sandy point, with a fringe of 
 trees, lying on the west side 3 miles farther southward. 
 
 Prince of Wales Passage has no anchorage for vessels. Small craft 
 can find shelter at the head of Shelter Bay, on the east side at the 
 head of the bay 1 J^ miles southeastward of Flemming Island, in the 
 lagoon on the east side nearly 3 miles southward of Flemming Island, 
 and in the coves on the east side 6 and 8 miles southward of Flem- 
 ming Island. Considerable swell makes into the last-named cove 
 during southerly winds. 
 
PRINCE OF WALES PASSAGE. 69 
 
 Flemming Island, over 2 miles long and 845 feet high, lies in the 
 northern end of the passage. The channel westward of Flemming 
 Island has considerable foul ground, and should be avoided by 
 strangers, except possibly small craft, at low water, and proceeding 
 with caution. 
 
 The wooded island, with a group of partly bare rocks off its south 
 side, which lies in Knight Island Passage y 2 mile northward of Flem- 
 ming Island, is a good mark for the north entrance of Prince of Wales 
 Passage. 
 
 Ship Islet, with a few trees, is the southerly one of two on the 
 easterly side of Flemming Island. A reef bare at low water extends 
 225 yards southeastward from it. 
 
 A group of bare rocks (highest about 3 feet) lies % to % mile 
 from the eastern shore and 1^ miles south-southeastward of Flem- 
 ming Island. 
 
 About 1 mile south-southeastward of these rocks is a lagoon with 
 a narrow entrance almost closed with rocks. It is a secure harbor 
 for small, li^ht-draft craft, in about 8 fathoms, but the entrance 
 requires local knowledge. 
 
 There are several wooded islands on the east side of the passage 
 from 3 to 5 miles southward of Flemming Island. The area between 
 them and Hoodoo Island is foul, and the tidal currents have a ve- 
 locity of 2 to 3 knots. 
 
 Nearly in mid-channel westward of the middle of these islands is 
 an area of broken ground nearly ^ mile long on which the least 
 depth found is 11 fathoms. It should be avoided by vessels, the 
 better channel following the western shore. 
 
 The broken area with depths less than 15 fathoms, lying 1 mile 
 farther southward, which extends % mile from the western shore, 
 should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 Currents. With the large tides the tidal currents have a velocity 
 of 2 to 3 knots at strength among the islands and in the narrower 
 parts of the passage. In the passage between Flemming and Hoodoo 
 islands the tidal currents have a velocity of 1 J^ to 2 knots at strength. 
 The flood current sets northward and ebb southward through the 
 passage. 
 
 KENAI PENINSULA, SOUTH COAST. 
 
 CAPE PUGET TO CAPE RESURRECTION. 
 
 This coast is high and rugged, with numerous glaciers showing in 
 the valleys. The prominent headlands are fairly well located, but 
 the bays are sketched and no information about them is available. 
 There are no outlying dangers along the coast so far as known. 
 
 Cape Puget is a high, sloping headland, and there are several bare 
 rocks off it, the farthest about % mile. Rocks about 30 feet high lie 
 off its eastern side well northward of the cape. From alongshore 
 eastward or westward the cape shows a wooded peak at the end, with 
 a large conical rock in the water close to its foot. 
 
 Cape Junken is high and has two steps near the water at its end as 
 seen from alongshore. 
 
 At the head of Johnstone Bay, 5 miles westward of Cape Junken, 
 there is a large, prominent glacier which comes down to high-water 
 mark. 
 
70 CAPE PUGET TO CAPE RESURRECTION. 
 
 Cape Fairfield, on the west side of Johnstone Bay is a Ligli, sloping 
 headland, with an immense pinnacle shaped like a shark's tooth at 
 its foot. As seen from southwest ward there are two smaller pinna- 
 cles on either side of it. 
 
 There is a large glacier at the head of the eastern arm of Day 
 Harbor. 
 
 Cape Resurrection is a precipitous headland of solid rock, with 
 little vegetation except some trees on the lower slopes. From east- 
 ward two dome-shaped peaks, the north one the higher, with a slight 
 notch between them, show at the end of the cape, with a somewhat 
 lower ridge back of them, but rising to higher mountains farther north. 
 Harwell Island, y% mile southeastward of Cape Resurrection, is small, 
 bare, rounded, precipitous, and 475 feet high. 
 
 RESURRECTION BAY 
 
 is about 16 miles long from Cape Resurrection. The depths are 
 great throughout, and there are no dangers in the usual track of ves- 
 sels. A flat extends y^ to y% mile from the entire northern shore at 
 the head of the bay. The shores and islands are steep and high, with 
 precipitous slopes in many places. The valleys are wooded up to an 
 elevation of about 1,000 feet. The anchorages are few and indiffer- 
 ent on account of the great depths, and are subject to heavy williwaws. 
 Seal Rocks, the southernmost point in the approach to the bay, are 
 a group of four small, rocky islets. The northernmost and largest is 
 278 feet high and has an arch through the middle. The following are 
 bearings and distances from Seal Rocks: 
 
 Cape Puget, 55 true (NNE % E mag.), 44 miles. 
 Point Elrington, 59 true (NNE % E mag.), 49 miles. 
 Danger Island, 63 true (NE % N mag.), 53 miles. 
 , Cape Cleare, 75 true (NE M E mag.), 55 miles. 
 
 Marmot Island (southeast point), 220 true (S by W M W 
 
 mag.), 105 miles. 
 
 Pye Island Reef, 243 true (SW */ % S mag.), 27 miles. 
 Lone Rock stands well southwestward of Chiswell Islands and is a 
 good mark. It is a round rock, 154 feet high, and there is a rock 
 covered at high water about % m ile northward of it. The passage 
 between Seal Rocks and Lone Rock is clear and is frequently used by 
 vessels between Resurrection Bay and the coast southwestward. 
 
 Chiswell Islands are a group of numerous, high, precipitous, rocky 
 islands, the southeasterly ones of those lying in the entrance of Aialik 
 Bay. The islands are sparsely wooded, most of them have off-lying 
 rocks, and there are strong tidal currents between them. 
 
 Pilot Rock, lying 1^ miles from the nearest point on the western 
 shore of Resurrection Bay, is a bare, rounded, rocky islet about 100 
 feet high, and is marked by a light. 
 
 Bear Glacier, large and prominent, is on the western shore west- 
 ward of Cape Resurrection. It is not discharging. 
 
 Toward the eastern shore in the entrance of Resurrection Bay are 
 three large, high, rugged islands, named in order from southward 
 Rugged, Hive, and Renard. The passages through the islands are 
 deep. Their shores are generally Ibold, but two rocks bare at low 
 water lie 200 yards southward from the southeast end of Renard 
 Island. Rugged Island is marked on its northeast side by a light. 
 
RESURRECTION BAY. 71 
 
 Sunny Cove, the southern bight on the west side of Renard Island, 
 is the best anchorage in Resurrection Bay. No ocean swell makes 
 into the cove, and it is sheltered from all but westerly winds. The 
 williwaws are bad with easterly winds. The cove is % to % mile 
 wide and clear. The anchorage is in the middle, 300 to 800 yards 
 from its head, in 15 to 25 fathoms, muddy bottom. 
 
 Small craft can anchor in the southeast arm of the bight on the 
 eastern shore 1^ miles northward of Renard Island. 
 
 Caines Head is the projecting and prominent, precipitous, high 
 headland on the western shore 2 % miles above Renard Island. It 
 is marked by a light. 
 
 Thumb Cove, on the eastern shore northeastward from Caines 
 Head, is % mile wide and 1 Y^ miles long. Anchorage can be selected 
 y% to y% mile from the head, in 25 to 30 fathoms, soft bottom. A 
 flat makes out 200 to 300 yards from the northern shore for a distance 
 of ^ mile from the head. 
 
 Seward is an important town on the western side at the head of 
 Resurrection Bay. There are stores and hotels, and provisions and 
 supplies of most kinds can be obtained. There is cable communi- 
 cation with other points in Alaska and Seattle. From Seward a 
 railroad has been constructed across Kenai Peninsula to the head 
 of Turnagain Arm, and its construction is at present being contin- 
 ued toward the Matanuska coal fields and Fairbanks. There is 
 communication by telephone and telegraph to points in the interior 
 along the line of the road. The wharf is off the southern front of 
 the town, and has a depth of 30 feet or more along its southern face. 
 Fresh water can be had at the wharf through pipe and hose. With 
 strong southeast winds vessels can not lie at the wharf. There is a 
 blacksmith and machine shop. Coal in small quantities is kept on 
 hand. 
 
 The only anchorage near the town is 300 to 400 yards off the rail- 
 road water tanks, about y^ mile northward of the wharf, in 20 fath- 
 oms, soft bottom, with scant swinging room. This anchorage is 
 exposed to southeast winds, and with offshore winds vessels are 
 liable to drag off into deep water on account of the steep pitch of 
 the bottom. 
 
 There are depths of 20 to 30 fathoms in the bight between Lowell 
 Point and Tonsina Creek, except near the point, where the depths 
 are greater. 
 
 Tides, At Seward high and low water occur about 46 minutes 
 earlier than at Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides is 8.4 
 feet. To find the height of the tide multiply the height of the cor- 
 responding tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 1.21. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, RESURRECTION BAY. 
 
 From eastward. From a position 1 mile 173 true (SE by S mag.) 
 from Barwell Island steer 319 true (WNW mag.) for 5 miles, pass- 
 ing y^ mile southwestward of Barwell Island and midway between 
 Hive and Renard Islands. When J/ mile off the southwest end of 
 Renard Island steer 4 true (NNW mag.) for 5>^ miles to a position 
 y% mile off the northeast side of Caines Head. From this position 
 a 342 true (NW mag.) course for 6% miles will lead to Seward. 
 
72 RESURRECTION BAY. 
 
 From southward. Seal Rocks are high, have deep water around 
 them, and are the best mark for which to shape the course. See also 
 the remarks under Aialik Bay relating to the route occasionally 
 used by small vessels passing northward of the islands in its entrance. 
 
 Pass about 2 miles eastward of Seal Rocks and steer 15 true 
 (N by W mag.) for 14 miles, passing about 1^ miles eastward of 
 Chiswell Islands and to a position 1 mile eastward of Pilot Rock light. 
 Then steer 2 true (NNW % W mag.) for 6% miles to a position % 
 mile off the southwest point of Rugged Island. Then steer 13 true 
 (N by W M W mag.) for 8J^ miles to a position Y^ mile off the 
 northeast side of Games Head. From this position a 342 true (NW 
 mag.) course for 6% miles will lead to Seward. 
 
 Or, for vessels going inside of Seal Rocks, pass 1 to 1 ^ miles north- 
 westward of Seal Rocks and steer 56 true (NNE y% E mag.) for 4 J^ 
 miles until the easternmost of the Chiswell Islands bears on the port 
 beam distant 1 J to 2 miles. Then steer 15 true (N by W mag.) 
 for 10 miles to a position 1 mile eastward of Pilot Rock, as in the 
 preceding paragraph. 
 
 AIALIK BAY 
 
 is 16 miles long from the north end of Harbor Island. It is inclosed 
 by rugged mountains and glaciers and is of no importance except 
 occasionally as an anchorage. The shores are steep and high, with 
 precipitous slopes in many places, and are partly wooded in the 
 southern part of the bay to an elevation of about 1,000 feet. The 
 northern part of the bay is covered with alders in places. 
 
 Aialik Bay has deep water with the exception of rocks near the 
 shores, and a bar which crosses the bay from the glacial flat fronting 
 Pederson Glacier. The least depth found on this bar near the middle 
 of the bay is 18 feet, but it and the broken ground near the shores at 
 the entrance of Holgate Arm are liable to have bowlders and less 
 water than charted. As a measure of caution vessels should avoid 
 the passages among the islands in the mouth of the bay. 
 
 To take advantage of smoother water, small vessels in coasting 
 southwestward from Resurrection Bay, and the reverse, sometimes 
 enter the bay at Aialik Cape, pass south of Chat Island, round the 
 north end of Harbor Island, and pass out at Granite Cape. From a 
 position 1 mile east-southeastward of Granite Cape a 226 true (S by 
 W % W mag.) course for 26 miles will lead to a position 3^ miles 
 155 true (SE J^ E mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island. 
 
 Chat Island is a steep, rocky, wooded island, 470 feet high; two 
 conspicuous pinnacles he close to its south shore. Between it and 
 Aialrk Cape are a smaller island and a number of rocks. 
 
 Harbor Island is the largest of a group of high, precipitous, rocky, 
 partly wooded islands, lying in the mouth of the bay and northwest 
 of Chiswell Islands. The shore in many places is a sheer cliff, espe- 
 cially the east shore of the eastern and highest island. Lying midway 
 in the channel between the northern, beehive-shaped Chiswell Island 
 and the small island at the southeast end of the Harbor Island group 
 is a rock which is bare at lowest tides. 
 
 Granite Island is a partially wooded, steep, precipitous island, 1,570 
 feet high. Granite Cape, at its southeast end, has a rock which covers 
 at high water about 80 yards off. 
 
AIALIK BAY. 73 
 
 Between Granite Cape and the main shore are two small wooded 
 islands about 200 feet high with a rock about 10 feet high between 
 them. 
 
 Twin Islands resemble each other in contour and are 400 and 550 
 feet high. They are wooded, and the arch off the south end of the 
 northern island is conspicuous. 
 
 Anchorages. The anchorages are few and indifferent due to the 
 great depth. With southerly weather a swell makes well into the bay. 
 
 The best anchorage is near the head of the middle arm of the three 
 arm bay on the east side of Aialik Bay, about 3 miles north of Harbor 
 Island, in 30 fathoms, good holding bottom. 
 
 Anchorage can be had in the cove on the west side of the bay, west- 
 ward (true) of the north end of Harbor Island. The anchorage is in 
 28 fathoms near the center of the cove. On each side of the entrance 
 to this cove is a sharp, conical, wooded hill about 800 feet high. Close 
 inshore off the point at the north entrance is a sharp pinnacle rock 
 about 25 feet high; about 600 yards northeastward of this pinnacle 
 is a rock which covers at about half tide. 
 
 There is fair anchorage off the small bight which lies on the east 
 side 1 y miles southward of the bar crossing the bay. Anchor in 22 
 to 25 fathoms off the middle of the bight and a little outside of the 
 line joining the two points forming the bight. The bight may be 
 recognized by a hanging glacier at its head. 
 
 Ice. There are discharging glaciers at the head of Aialik Bay and 
 Holgate Arm, and ice is frequently driven to Harbor Island by north- 
 erly winds. Holgate Arm and the entire bay above the bar are fre- 
 quently filled with ice. 
 
 NUKA BAY 
 
 lies between Pye Islands and Nuka Island; the outer part is about 8 
 miles long and 5 miles wide, and there are two main arms at its head. 
 There are several bays and coves affording anchorage. The bay is 
 not surveyed, but soundings through the middle indicate very deep 
 water, as shown on the chart. 
 
 Pye Islands, on the east side at the entrance of Nuka Bay, are 
 thee rugged, mountainous islands having a total length of 7J^ miles. 
 The highest peak of the outer island is near its eastern end, and is a 
 good mark. Approaching from northeastward the break between 
 the outer and second islands shows well. From southwestward the 
 separate islands do not show, but at the eastern end is seen the highest 
 peak, from which there is a slope to a high shelf at the water. There 
 are breakers in places along the eastern side of the islands, the south- 
 ernmost lying 2/g or y% mile eastward from the eastern end of the outer 
 island. 
 
 Pye Island Reef, awash or barely covered at high water, lies 2% 
 miles 206 true (S mag.) from the peak of the outer Pye Island. 
 There is always a break on the reef, but at high water with an excep- 
 tionally smooth sea there may be some interval between them. 
 Depths of 18 to 60 fathoms were found about midway between it and 
 the island. The line of the western ends of the outer and second 
 islands leads a little westward of the reef, and the line of the eastern 
 ends of the outer and third islands leads well eastward of it. 
 
74 NUKA BAY. 
 
 The channel between the second and third Pye Islands has a kelp 
 patch in its western entrance a little southward of mid-channel, and 
 the eastern entrance is obstructed by breakers. 
 
 McArthur Pass, between the third Pye Island and the mainland, is 
 about 100 yards wide in its narrowest part for a distance of about 
 200 yards. A least depth of 7 fathoms was found in mid-channel, 
 and the tidal current had a velocity of 4 to 5 knots southwestward 
 through the pass near the time of low water. It is not recommended 
 except for small vessels at slack water. 
 
 The east arm of Nuka Bay lies at the western entrance of McArthur 
 Pass. It is about 2 miles wide at the entrance and 5 miles long. A 
 large glacier comes down to high-water mark at its head, and fre- 
 quently discharges some ice. No bottom at 20 fathoms was found 
 through the middle, and no bottom at 35 fathoms was found about 
 100 yards or less from the bare spit at the foot of the glacier. Indif- 
 ferent anchorage in 25 fathoms was found near the northern shore of 
 the first cove northward of McArthur Pass on the east side of the arm. 
 
 Nuka Island, on the western side of Nuka Bay, is mountainous 
 and about 8 miles long. At its southern end are two points; the 
 southern one has the appearance of a large, high island, its outline 
 being an arc of a circle, and is distinctive; the northwestern one is a 
 high peak with a fairly regular slope to the water. Bare rocks 
 show in the bight between these points and off the entrance. No 
 information is available for Nuka Island Passage, westward of the 
 island, and the eastern shore of the island should be given a good 
 berth. 
 
 Palisade Bay, on the east side of the west arm ol Nuka Bay, 9J/2 
 miles above outer Pye Island, will be known by a high, wooded 
 island on the south side in its entrance. Anchorage can be had on 
 the northeast side of the island, about on a line from its north end 
 to the point on the main shore, in 14 to 20 fathoms. The cove on 
 the southwest side of the island is foul. 
 
 Palisade Bay is about 3 miles long. Anchorage can be had about 
 J mile from the narrow part at its head, in 17 fathoms, with ample 
 swinging room. From the top of an adjacent mountain a sunken 
 rock was seen between this anchorage and the northeast shore, but 
 a search for it in a boat did not find it. 
 
 Cabin Bay, on the west side, opposite Palisade Bay, is about 2^ 
 miles long. No bottom at 20 fathoms was found through the middle 
 of the bay. A very small vessel anchored at its head in 13 fathoms. 
 From the prominent point on the west shore southward of Cabin 
 Bay a reef makes out about % mile. 
 
 Rock Bay, on the east side of the west arm, \\Yi miles above outer 
 Pye Island, will be known by a cluster of wooded islets and bare 
 rocks on the south side at its entrance. From the islets to the north 
 point at the entrance is a bank, on which there is kelp for about 150 
 yards from the islets, and a reef extending one-third the distance 
 across from the point. Entering in mid-channel or slightly favor- 
 ing the islets, a depth of 9 fathoms will be found over the bank. 
 Anchorage can be had toward the eastern shore in 14 fathoms. The 
 course in is about 121 true (E J^ S mag.). 
 
 Shelter Cove, on the west side, 13^ miles above outer Pye Island, 
 lies 236 true (SSW % W mag.) from the point dividing the north 
 and west branches at the head of the west arm. The cove is small, 
 
NUKA BAY. 75 
 
 but affords anchorage in the middle of its entrance, in 13 fathoms, 
 with ample swinging room. At the head of the cove is a grassy flat, 
 in front of which is a good sized mud flat that covers. 
 
 The point dividing the north and west branches at the head of 
 the west arm has a small cluster of grass-covered rocks and wooded 
 islets close-to. 
 
 The west branch is 1J^ miles long, with deep water to the large 
 mud flat at its head. 
 
 The north branch is 5 miles long in a 31 true (N Y^ E mag.) 
 direction and nearly 2 miles wide at the entrance, and has a depth 
 of about 77 fathoms through the middle until abreast Pilot Harbor. 
 There is a depth of 18 fathoms less than 50 yards from the low- 
 water edge of the flat at its head. Pilot Harbor, on the eastern side 
 of the north branch, 1 mile from its head, is a short bay having a 
 93 true (ENE mag.) direction. There is a large bare rock, about 
 3 feet high, off each point at the entrance. ^ Entering in mid-channel, 
 a secure anchorage will be found in the middle, or slightly favoring 
 the south side, in 13 to 15 fathoms. There is a flat at the head, on 
 the low-water edge of which is a wooded islet, lying about ^ mile 
 above the bare rock off the north point at the entrance. 
 
 POINT GORE 
 
 is a prominent headland lying 18 miles 247 true (SW J4 S mag.) 
 from Pye Island Reef and 16 miles 70 true (NE mag.) from the 
 southeast end of East Chugach Island. From eastward and west- 
 ward it shows as an island with a high peak near the middle and a 
 broad, high shoulder at the ends, and separated from the high land 
 northward by a narrow gap. There is an arch in the rocks at the 
 eastern end of Point Gore, which shows over a small arc from south- 
 ward, and a folding in the strata in the face of the cliff on the south 
 side of the point. 
 
 The neck joining Point Gore to the mainland is low and wooded. 
 Anchorage with shelter from southwest winds is reported toward 
 the northwest shore off the east side of this neck in about 17 fathoms, 
 but no description or definite information as to its exact location 
 is available. It is wide open to all easterly winds, and vessels must 
 be prepared to leave immediately when the swell begins to make 
 around the point to the anchorage. 
 
 On the west side of the neck back of Point Gore is a cove affording 
 indifferent anchorage with easterly winds. The south point of the 
 cove is the northwest end of Point Gore, and is a shelving ridge of bare 
 rock, from the end of which rocks, bare at low water, and kelp extend 
 about 200 yards northwestward. A rock covered at high water lies 
 about 100 yards from the cliff at the southeast end of the cove, and a 
 large kelp field extends about 200 yards northwestward from the rock. 
 The anchorage is in 18 to 25 fathoms, soft bottom, 250 to 300 yards 
 from the beach of the low neck and from the edge of the kelp off the 
 rock, and about % mile from the cliff on the southern side. The 
 water deepens rapidly northwestward, the swinging room is scant, 
 and the anchorage is uneasy. 
 
 To enter, round the south point of the cove at a distance of y 2 mile 
 and steer 115 true (E mag.) for the gap in the trees, or lowest part 
 of the neck. 
 
76 KENAI PENINSULA. 
 
 PORT DICK, 
 
 on the west side of Point Gore, is about 2^ miles wide at the entrance 
 and has a 357 true (NNW Yi W mag.) direction to the glacier at its 
 head. From the western side West Arm extends westward about 6 J^ 
 miles. The port is not surveyed; the depths in the middle are over 
 100 fathoms until well toward the head of West Arm. 
 
 Sunday Harbor, on the east side, opposite the entrance of West Arm, 
 is a small, double-headed bay, with anchorage for vessels of any size 
 in its southeastern cove. The southern point at the entrance has a 
 few rocks close-to, and a reef marked by Kelp extends westward from 
 it. The western end of the reef is a very dangerous sunken rock, 
 barely covered at low water, lying about y% mile 295 true (W mag.) 
 from the point. 
 
 To enter Sunday Harbor, stand up the middle of the port on a 357 
 true (NNW Yi W mag.) course, heading for the glacier at the head 
 until off the entrance of the harbor. Enter the harbor on a 90 true 
 (NE by E % E mag.) course, with the head of the harbor ahead and 
 a high wooded islet on the southern side of West Arm astern. Anchor 
 with the southwest point at the entrance to Port Dick open from the 
 southeast point of the harbor, in 12 to 15 fathoms. There are a num- 
 ber of high-water islets at the head of the harbor. 
 
 The arm of Sunday Harbor northwest of the anchorage has a large 
 grass-covered rock in its entrance. 
 
 West Arm of Port Dick is about 1 mile wide at the entrance, and 
 extends 295 true (W mag.) for 2J^ miles to the narrowest part of the 
 arm, and then 291 true (W y% S mag.) about 3% miles, where there 
 is anchorage in 13 to 15 fathoms below the rocky islet, with a few trees 
 on top, which lies near the southern shore. The flat at the head 
 extends below the houses on the north side, and vessels can not go 
 above the islet. There is a cascade inside the islet. 
 
 There is a bare reef close to the south point at the entrance to West 
 Arm, and a high wooded islet lies on the south side, about % mile inside 
 the entrance of the arm. 
 
 On the north side of West Arm is a bay with an island in it. An- 
 chorage is reported in the bay eastward of the island. 
 
 Taylor Bay, the north arm of Port Dick, is reported to be foul. 
 
 In the southwest approach to Port Dick there is a dangerous sunken 
 rock, locally called Gore Rock, having 8 feet at mean lower low water, 
 lying 73^ miles 244 true (SW YL S mag.) from Point Gore and 8^ 
 miles 74 true (NE % E mag.) from the southeast point of East 
 Chugach Island. It lies about % mile outside the line between these 
 points and approximately 8^2 miles from shore. 
 
 CHUGACH ISLANDS 
 
 are three large, mountainous islands, named in order from eastward 
 East Chugach, Pearl, and Elizabeth Islands, near the coast of Kenai 
 Peninsula at the entrance of Cook Inlet. 
 
 East Chugach Island is about 3% miles long and mountainous, and 
 has a low valley through the middle in a northeasterly and south- 
 westerly direction. The south peak has an elevation of 1,451 feet, 
 and the peak near the west end is higher. The southeast point of the 
 
CHUGACH ISLANDS. 77 
 
 island is a cliff with a peak at its crest and slightly lower land back of 
 it before rising to the mountains. There is a light on this point. The 
 northwest point of the island is a low wooded point or spit. There 
 is considerable foul ground between the island and the coast. The 
 passage between East Chugach and Pearl Islands is clear and is used 
 by vessels passing inside of Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. 
 
 Pearl Island is about 2}/ miles long and 1% miles wide. It is 
 mountainous, with elevations up to 1,742 feet, but its northwest part 
 is much lower. Its northwest point is a sand spit on the west side 
 and a high cliff on the north side. High bare rocks extend y% to % 
 mile off the middle of the south side of the island. 
 
 Nagahut Rocks are three large, prominent, bare rocks, close together 
 and connected 'at low water, lying 1 ^ miles southwestward from the 
 southwest end of Pearl Island, with foul ground and no safe passage 
 between. 
 
 Dora Reef is a small patch of sunken rocks, on which the sea breaks 
 at low water with a moderate sea, lying l^ miles 238 true (SW by S 
 mag.) from Nagahut Rocks. It is steep-to. 
 
 There is deep water in the passage between Nagahut Rocks and 
 Dora Reef on the southeast and Elizabeth Island on the northwest, 
 but a depth of 6 fathoms was found % mile eastward from the rock 
 or islet close to the southeast end of Elizabeth Island, and 4 fathoms 
 1 mile westward of the west end of Pearl Island. 
 
 A reef, bare at low water, makes out about % mile from the eastern 
 side of the prominent point on the north shore between Pearl and 
 Elizabeth Islands. On the northeast part of the reef, about one- 
 third the distance from the shore to its end, is a bare ledge that always 
 shows above water. The outer rock that shows at low water lies 
 about % mile 130 true (ESE % E mag.) from the point and about 
 iy 8 miles 333 true (NW y% W mag.) from the northwest end of Pearl 
 Island. This is the worst danger in the passage inside of Pearl and 
 Elizabeth Islands. 
 
 Elizabeth Island is about 3 miles in diameter and is two mountain 
 masses, with elevations up to 1,656 feet, and a low valley between 
 them extending through in a northwesterly direction. The northeast 
 point of the island is a sand spit, awash at high water. There is a 
 prominent, large, bare rock close to the north shore of Elizabeth 
 Island about % mile westward of the sand spit. Southward of the 
 rock, kelp makes out about 350 yards from Elizabeth Island. Cape 
 Elizabeth is the western end of the island. 
 
 The passage inside Pearl and Elizabeth Islands is commonly used 
 by vessels entering Cook Inlet from eastward. It is about 1 mile 
 wide, and depths of 9 to 10 fathoms were found in the shoalest part 
 of the channel between the southeast end of Elizabeth Island and the 
 dangerous reef extending from the north shore. 
 
 There are strong tidal currents in the passage on either side of Eliz- 
 abeth Island, and heavy tide rips occur from the northwest end of 
 Pearl Island to the western end of the passage. The heaviest rips 
 are in the vicinity of Pearl Island, with an ebb current and easterly 
 wind. Heavy rips also occur off the southeast point of East 
 Chugach Island. The turn of the current occurs later, possibly as 
 much as one hour, in the passage than in the main entrance south of 
 Elizabeth Island. 
 
78 CHUGACH ISLANDS. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, INSIDE PEARL AND ELIZABETH ISLANDS. 
 
 From a position 1 mile south-southeastward from the southeast 
 point of East Chugach Island, steer 293 true (W Y% S mag.) for 8 
 miles to a position ^ mile off the high north point of Pearl Island. 
 Then steer 275 true (WSW M Wmag.), heading for the high south 
 peak of Elizabeth Island. When Nagahut Rocks bear 180 true 
 (SSE M E mag.), steer 347 true (NW % N mag.), heading for the 
 prominent white scar in the cliffs on the north shore of the approach 
 to Port Chatham, and pass about mid-channel between the shores 
 of Elizabeth Island and the mainland. 
 
 When the large bare rock close to the north shore of Elizabeth 
 Island is abeam, and is closed with the north shore of Elizabeth Island 
 west of it, steer 284 true (W by S mag.) for about 4J^ miles, with 
 the middle one of the three highest peaks on the eastern shore astern, 
 and pass % mile northward of the rock and over 1 mile southward of 
 the yellow bluff at the east entrance point of Koyuktolik Bay. 
 
 Then steer 307 true (WNW % W mag.) with the sharp southwest 
 peak of Pearl Island snowing over the middle of the low valley in 
 Elizabeth Island astern, and pass \y^ miles southwestward of Point 
 Adam. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, POINT GORE INSIDE EAST CHUGACH ISLAND. 
 
 This area was partly surveyed in 1915. The results of this survey 
 indicate the existence of a good channel inside East Chugach Island, 
 with least depths of about 12 fathoms off the north spit, and depths 
 of 20 to 80 fathoms eastward of the island. 
 
 On the other hand, the depths found were very irregular, and a 
 more detailed examination might reveal shoaler areas than those 
 already found. The region is one which should not be considered 
 free from danger until it has been dragged. 
 
 A kite, set to depths of 12 fathoms from Elizabeth Island to the 
 spit of East Chugach Island, and 15 to 20 fathoms in the deeper water 
 eastward, was towed over the track here recommended. In using 
 the passage, therefore, vessels are advised to follow this track closely, 
 as elsewhere there is not, as yet, adequate assurance that the passage 
 is free from dangers. 
 
 From a position 1^ miles off Point Gore, steer 265 true (SW by 
 W ^g W mag.) with the end of the sand spit on the northwest end of 
 East Chugach Island right ahead, and in range with the south shore 
 of Elizabeth Island. This course passes midway between Gore Rock 
 and another rock, bare at low water, which lies 2% miles 352 true 
 (NNW y% W mag.) from Gore Rock. Hold this course for 12 miles, 
 until the southeast end of East Chugach Island bears 220 true (S by 
 W y 8 W mag.), then steer 283 true (W by S mag.) for 4^ miles fo"r 
 the head of Chugach Bay, passing 1 % miles off the northeast point of 
 East Chugach Island. 
 
 When the end of the spit on the northwest end of the island bears 
 211 true (S Y 2 W mag.) haul sharply to a 236 true (SSW % W mag.) 
 course, heading midway between the two peaks of Pearl Island, and 
 pass in mid-channel between the end of the spit and the bare reef off 
 the south point of Chugach Bay. At the above change in course the 
 reef on the north shore of East Chugach Island just eastward of the 
 
CHUGACH ISLANDS. 79 
 
 end of the spit should be abeam and in range with the high western 
 peak of the island. Hold this course for 2.9 miles, until the rock off 
 the south point of Chugach Bay bears 9 true (N by W % W mag.), 
 and then steer 264 true (SW by W M W mag.) for 3^ miles, head- 
 ing for the rocks off the south shore of Elizabeth Island, to a point ^2 
 mile off the high north point of Pearl Island. Then proceed as di- 
 rected for the passage inside Pearl and Elizabeth Islands. 
 
 In following the above courses, care should be taken to make proper 
 allowance for the currents which set in and out of Port Dick, and 
 diagonally across the course in approaching East Chugach Island. 
 Because of these currents, the passage should not be attempted unless 
 the weather is clear enough to permit the leading marks to be seen. 
 
 BARREN ISLANDS 
 
 are six, mountainous, grass-covered islands nearly in the middle of the 
 entrance to Cook Inlet between Chugach Islands and Shuyak Island, 
 and are about 13 miles long and 5 miles wide. The best anchorages 
 are Amatuli Cove and the northern bight in the western end of 
 Ushagat Island. Some sounding has been done, and the dangers so 
 far as known are mentioned. 
 
 The tidal currents have great velocity among and outside the islands, 
 the flood current setting northwestward and being apparently stronger 
 than the ebb. Heavy tide rips occur with strong winds in the vicinity 
 of the islands, and during spring tides are frequently dangerous for 
 small vessels. 
 
 East Amatuli Island, at the eastern end of the group, is about 2 
 miles long and has a high peak at either end joined by a sharp ridge, 
 which at the head of Amatuli Cove is about 300 feet high. A rocky 
 islet about 100 feet high lies 250 yards off its eastern end. 
 
 Amatuli Cove, on the northwest side of East Amatuli Island, is 
 about y<i mile in diameter and a good anchorage for small vessels. 
 With heavy northeast winds, considerable sea makes in to the anchor- 
 age unless well in the bight, but the wind is little felt. The anchorage 
 is in the middle, abreast or inside the north point of the cove, in 6 to 
 11 fathoms, mud and rock bottom. Scattered kelp grows in places 
 in the cove, and along the shores there is thick kelp, which makes out 
 farthest on the southeast side. There are no known dangers outside 
 the thick kelp. There is a stream at the head of the cove. 
 
 Approaching from southward pass about ^ mile westward of Sugar- 
 loaf Island and in mid-channel between East and West Amati li 
 Islands, course about 38 true (N by E J E mag.). The least depth 
 found was 7 fathoms when the southwest peak of East Amatuli bore 
 about 103 true (E by N mag.). 
 
 Approaching Amatuli Cove from northward pass in mid-channel 
 between East Amatuli Island and the bare rocks (about 20 feet high) 
 lying y% mile eastward from the northeast end of West Amatuli 
 Island. The least depth found in this entrance was about 12 fathoms. 
 
 West Amatuli Island is about 3 miles long and mountainous. A 
 cluster of rocks about 20 feet high lies about y% mile eastward from 
 the northeast end of the island, with a reef between. A bare rock lies 
 close to the northwest point of West Amatuli, and a dangerous rock, 
 awash at low water and on which the sea generally breaks, lies about 
 
80 BARREN ISLANDS. 
 
 1*4 miles 348 true (NW % N mag.) from the same point and 
 miles 88 true (NE by E % E mag.) from the summit of Nord 
 Island . 
 
 Sugarloaf Island, 1J^ miles southward of East Amatuli Island, is 
 about y mile in diameter and about 1,200 feet high. A large bare 
 rock lies % mile southeastward of it, with foul ground and breakers 
 between. There is also a rocky islet close to its eastern end, and 
 breakers extend nearly J^ mile off its western end. 
 
 Nord Island, 1^ miles northward from the eastern end of Ushagat, 
 with deep water between, is about % mile in diameter. Its southern 
 half is a dome 570 feet high, while its northern half is lower and 
 irregular. 
 
 Sud Island, 1J^ miles off the southeast end of Ushagat, is 13/g 
 miles long and about 1,200 feet high near its southwestern end. 
 Near its northeastern end is a knob over 300 feet high. 
 
 A small rocky island over 200 feet high lies lf/2 miles southeast- 
 ward from the south end of Ushagat. A low rock and breakers 
 lie 600 yards, and two large bare rocks lie % mile southward from it. 
 
 Ushagat Island, the westernmost and largest of the Barren Islands, 
 is 6% miles long and 3^ miles wide near its western end. It is 
 practically inaccessible except at the low neck near the northeast 
 end and at several beaches fronting the valley in its northwest part. 
 The southern part of the island is high, rocky peaks, with elevations 
 up to 1,985 feet. Table Mountain, at the northeast end, is 1,356 
 feet high, and is separated from the other high land of the island 
 by a low, narrow neck. There are several fresh-water lakes. 
 
 Two rocks, nearly awash at high water, lie % mile northward 
 from the northwest end of Ushagat. 
 
 A bare rock about 5 feet high lies % mile southwestward from the 
 northwest end of Ushagat. A reef awash at half tide lies 250 yards 
 northwestward from the bare rock. A bare reef, nearly awash at 
 high water, lies J^ mile eastward from the bare rock and % mile 
 260 true (SW by W mag.) from the high bare rocks close to a point 
 of Ushagat % mile southeastward of its northwest end. 
 
 The west side of Ushagat Island is indented about 1 mile by an 
 
 open bay, about 2J/ miles long, and having two bights. A good 
 anchorage for all easterly winds may be had in the bight at the 
 north end of the bay. To enter from westward, give the northwest 
 end of the island a berth of 1 mile and pass about ^ mile westward 
 and southward of the bare rock lying % mile southwestward from 
 the northwest end. Then steer 92 true (ENE mag.) for Table 
 Mountain and anchor about % mile from shore in 6 to 8 fathoms, 
 hard bottom. Kelp extends some distance off the point dividing 
 the bights on the east side of the bay. 
 
 Bare rocks extend ^ mile southwestward from the southwest 
 end of Ushagat Island. 
 
 COOK INLET. 
 
 Surveys are available of all parts of Cook Inlet northward of Port 
 Graham and Augustine Island, with the exception of the head of 
 Kachemak Bay above Coal Bay, and parts of Turnagain Arm. The 
 inlet is shown on charts 8502, 8553, and 8554, Knik Arm on chart 
 8557, Iliamna Bay on chart 8665, Port Chatham on chart 8588, and 
 Port Graham and Seldovia Bay on chart 8589. 
 
COOK INLET. 81 
 
 Prominent features. The shore on both sides of the inlet can be 
 seen in clear weather, but it is sometimes difficult to locate the posi- 
 tion on account of the lack of marked features on the eastern shore 
 and the currents are so strong that logged distances are deceptive. 
 Augustine, Iliamna, and Redoubt volcanoes are conspicuous and 
 useful marks in the lower inlet, and Mounts Susitna and Spurr in the 
 upper inlet. The numerous peaks of the high land southward of 
 Kachemak Bay and northward from Kamishak Bay, Anchor Point, 
 the 1,900-foot hill lying 10 miles from the east shore between Capes 
 Starichkof and Ninilchik, Chisik Island, Kalgin Island, East, West, 
 and North Forelands, Point Possession, and Fire Island are promi- 
 nent in their respective localities. 
 
 Dangers. The shoals in Cook Inlet are generally strewn with 
 bowlders, which lie on the otherwise flat bottom, give no indication 
 to the lead unless it strikes them, and are not marked by kelp. 
 Most of those located by the survey were found by sighting them 
 at low water. Many of the bowlders are of sufficient size to show 
 above low water in depths of 30" feet. As a measure of caution, 
 therefore, it is considered advisable for vessels to avoid areas having 
 depths not more than 30 feet greater than the draft. At low water 
 deep-draft vessels should avoid areas with a charted depth less than 
 10 fathoms. 
 
 In general the shoal banks fronting the marshy parts of the shores 
 in the upper inlet are free from bowlders, the deposit having been 
 sufficient, apparently, to cover them; but there are indications that 
 bowlders do occur in the deeper water outside these banks. 
 
 With an average tida] current there are swirls throughout the inlet, 
 but they do not necessarily indicate dangers as they show in depths 
 of 15 fathoms if the bottom is uneven. Heavy swirls with slight 
 overfalls should be avoided, and any disturbance which has a recog- 
 nized wake in the water should be considered as indicating a danger- 
 ous rock or shoal. 
 
 The waters of the inlet are much discolored by glacial silt. At low 
 water the discoloration may extend to the mouth of the inlet, and at 
 high tide the water may be comparatively clear to East and West 
 Forelands or even above. Frequently with either a flood or ebb 
 current the water above the Forelands appears as a liquid mud. 
 
 Harbors and anchorages. Port Graham, Seldovia Bay, Kahsitsnah 
 Bay, and Coal Bay in Kachemak Bay, Iniskin Bay, Tuxedni Harbor, 
 and Knik Arm are the secure harbors in the inlet, and the anchorage 
 at East Foreland (Nikishka) is sheltered from all easterly winds. 
 Temporary anchorage in thick weather can be selected at most places 
 in the inlet with the aid of the chart. On account of the great range 
 of the tides, the stage of the tide must always be kept in mind when 
 anchoring to insure a depth sufficient to lie afloat and have swinging 
 room at low water. 
 
 Settlements and supplies. There are stores and settlements at 
 Port Graham, Seldovia, Kenai, Susitna, Anchorage, Knik, Hope, 
 and Sunrise, and at the canneries operating during the summer at 
 Kenai and Kasilof. Woodrow Creek, in Knik Arm, is the headquar- 
 ters from which the railroad is being constructed into the interior. 
 From this point the mail goes to Hope and Sunrise during the summer. 
 31056 16 6 
 
82 COOK INLET. 
 
 Water is piped to the wharf at Port Graham and Seldovia. It can 
 also be readily obtained from numerous streams along all of the high 
 shores. In the upper inlet water is difficult to obtain and is accessi- 
 ble only at high water. The streams at East Foreland (Nikishka), 
 the north side of Point Possession, and in Knik Arm are the only ones 
 known where a vessel can approach the shore closely enough to per- 
 mit boating water in any quantity. 
 
 Weather. The prevailing winds during the summer are easterly 
 with rain, the gales during that time being from the same direc- 
 tion. In the late summer and early fall, fresh southwesterly 
 winds with clear but hazy weather are of frequent occurrence in the 
 lower inlet, but they seldom blow with much force above the Fore- 
 lands. Fresh northwesterly winds may occur during the early sum- 
 mer; they are generally accompanied by rain and last from one to 
 two days. At such times navigation in the inlet, except southward 
 with an ebb tide, is uncomfortable and even dangerous for small 
 vessels. 
 
 Easterly gales become more frequent in the fall, and southeast 
 gales may also be expected in and following September. Snow- 
 storms may be expected from the 1st ol October to the last of April. 
 Cloud caps forming about the high peaks are generally followed by 
 easterly weather and rain. 
 
 Fog may be expected occasionally during the summer. Its dura- 
 tion without partially clearing is generally short, although spells of 
 generally foggy weather may last several days. 
 
 Ice. The winter of 1915-16 was the first in which there had been 
 any attempt at navigating the upper inlet after the ice had begun 
 to form. The data as yet available is very meager, but the following 
 statement will furnish a close approximation of prevailing conditions : 
 
 The upper part of the inlet is more or less obstructed by floating ice, 
 which forms on the flats and in the shallower waters from December 
 to April. The determining factor is the severity of the winter, which 
 varies greatly from year to year. 
 
 During a mild winter or after a period of several days of mild 
 weather, vessels will probably have no difficulty in reaching the head 
 of the inlet and lying at anchor long enough to discharge their cargoes 
 to lighters alongside. 
 
 During a severe winter or after a considerable period of severe cold 
 such a course is not feasible; full-powered vessels could probably 
 reach the head of the inlet even at such times but, because of the heavy 
 masses of ice floating in the strong currents, would find it imprac- 
 ticable to discharge to lighters, either when lying at anchor or drifting 
 with the current. 
 
 Ice does not generally interfere with navigation southward of 
 Anchor Point except on the western side of the inlet, where large fields 
 of it are sometimes carried by wind and tide as far as Augustine Is- 
 land, closing Iliamna Bay for brief periods. 
 
 The tides fall below the plane of mean lower low water when minus 
 tides occur in the tide-table predictions for Kodiak, the amount being 
 greater in Cook Inlet. A safe rule for Cook Inlet is to multiply by 3 
 the minus heights taken from the Kodiak predictions, the maximum 
 fall of the water below mean lower low water in Cook Inlet being about 
 6 feet. 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 83 
 
 CURRENTS. COOK INLET. 
 
 The tidal currents have great velocity in Cook Inlet and must be 
 considered at all times. The small local steamers plan their trips so 
 as to have a favorable current and prefer to anchor rather than steam 
 against the current of a large tide. A vessel with a speed of 8 knots, 
 picking up the flood current of a large tide a little northward of 
 Anchor Point, can carry it to Fire Island. 
 
 At the entrance of Cook Inlet the tidal currents have an estimated 
 average velocity of 2 to 3 knots at strength, and in general the veloci- 
 ties increase up the inlet, with maximum velocities in the vicinity of 
 Harriet Point, East and West Forelands, and the entrances to Knik 
 and Turnagain Arms. The maximum current velocity measured by 
 the McArthur was 5 knots at anchorages near East and West Fore- 
 lands, Tyonek, and Point Mackenzie. These anchorages were out of 
 the full strength of the current, and there is little doubt that the 
 maximum velocity of the current at the strength of a large tide is as 
 much as 8 knots between East and West Forelands and probably 
 more between Harriet Point and the south end of Kalgin Island. 
 
 The following statements are made from observations taken near 
 the shores, and it is probable that the velocities in the main channel 
 exceed these somewhat; also, since the current runs in the channel 
 somewhat longer than.it does near the shore, the times in the channel 
 may be a little later than these given. 
 
 In general, the direction of the current is approximately parallel to 
 the trend of the nearest shore, and when flats are uncovered, parallel 
 to their edges. Off the various bays a set may be expected, toward 
 the bay on a flood current and from the bay on an ebb current. 
 
 At Dangerous Cape. A current of nearly 3 knots sets at times across 
 the broken ground around the cape, causing heavy rips and overfalls. 
 
 Kacheinak Bay. From Dangerous Cape, a flood current sets up 
 Kachemak Bay with a velocity of 1 to 2 knots in a northeasterly direc- 
 tion, and the ebb flows in a southwesterly to westerly direction. The 
 currents at the mouth of the bay are uncertain, and may vary from 
 place to place, making it difficult to make correct allowance for set 
 in crossing from Anchor Point to Seldovia. 
 
 At Seldovia. The tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 1 to 
 2 knots at strength. 
 
 At Anchor Point. The strength of flood and ebb occur, respectively, 
 1 hour and 10 minutes before the times of high and low waters at 
 Kodiak. Slack water before flood and ebb occur, respectively, 2 
 hours after the times of low water and high water at Kodiak. The 
 mean velocities of the current at the strength of flood and ebb are 
 2.4 and 1.9 knots, respectively, the greatest currents observed being 
 2.8 knots on the flood and 2.2 on the ebb. 
 
 Off Cape Kasilof. The strength of flood and ebb occur, respec- 
 tively, at the times of high water and low water at Kodiak. Slack 
 water before flood and ebb occur, respectively, 2 hours and 40 minutes 
 before the times of high and low waters at Kodiak. The mean ve- 
 locities of the current at strength of flood and ebb are 2.4 and 2.6 
 knots, respectively, the greatest currents observed being 2.8 knots on 
 the flood and 2.9 on the ebb. In the middle of the channel east of 
 Kalgin Island, the currents at times may exceed 5 knots. 
 
84 COOK INLET CURRENTS. 
 
 Off East and West Forelands. The strength of flood and ebb occur, 
 respectively, 30 minutes after the times of high water and low water 
 at Kodiak. Slack water before the flood and ebb occur, respectively, 
 2 hours and 15 minutes before the times of high water and low water 
 at Kodiak. The mean velocity of the current at strength of flood 
 and ebb is 3.3 knots, the greatest current observed being 5 knots, 
 and is probably greatly exceeded at times in the middle of the channel. 
 
 Off Moose Point. The strength of flood and ebb occur, respectively, 
 1 hour and 15 minutes after the times of high water and low water at 
 Kodiak. Slack water before the flood and ebb occur, respectively, 1 
 hour and 40 minutes before the times of high and low waters at 
 Kodiak. The mean velocities of the current at strength of flood and 
 ebb are 2.8 and 2.5 knots, respectively, the greatest current observed 
 being 2.9 knots on the flood and 2.6 Knots on the ebb. 
 
 Off the west side of Fire Island. The strength of the flood and ebb 
 occur, respectively, 1 hour and 45 minutes after the times of high and 
 low waters at Kodiak. Slack water before flood and ebb occur, respec- 
 tively, 1 hour and 10 minutes before the times of high and low waters 
 at Kodiak. The mean velocities of the current at strength of flood 
 and ebb are 2.8 and 1.5 knots, respectively, the greatest current 
 observed being 3 knots on the flood and 1.6 Knots on the ebb. 
 
 Off Point Woronzof. The strength of the flood and ebb occur, 
 respectively, 2 hours and 15 minutes after the times of high and low 
 waters at Kodiak. Slack water before the flood and ebb occur, respec- 
 tively, 50 minutes before the times of high and low waters at Kodiak. 
 The mean velocity of the current at strength of flood and ebb is 4.5 
 knots, the greatest currents observed being 5 knots on the flood and 
 
 4.6 knots on the ebb. 
 
 In Knik Arm, South of Goose Creek. The strength of the flood 
 occurs 2 hours and 30 minutes after the time of high water at Kodiak, 
 and the strength of the ebb 3 hours and 40 minutes after the time of 
 low water at Kodiak. Slack water before flood and ebb occur, respec- 
 tively, 20 minutes after the times of high and low waters at Kodiak. 
 The mean velocities of the current at strength of flood and ebb are 
 3.4 and 3.7 knots, respectively, the greatest currents observed being 
 
 5.7 knots on the flood and 5.4 knots on the ebb. 
 
 At Knik Harbor. The tidal currents have moderate velocity at 
 the anchorage near the shore, and are strong in mid-channel. 
 
 Turnagain Arm. The currents are very strong, and the flood fre- 
 quently comes in as a bore, with spring tides, under certain weather 
 conditions. This bore is said at times to be 4 to 6 feet high, and is 
 very dangerous for small craft. Boats should be beached well above 
 the level of the flats, and thus avoid the bore when it comes in. The 
 bore can be heard about J^ hour before it reaches one, sounding like 
 breakers on the beach; it travels slowly. 
 
 Harriet Point. The currents are very swift at Harriet Point, ex- 
 ceeding 5 knots on spring tides, and with southerly breezes bad tide 
 rips occur between Harriet Point and Kalgin Island, and extend 
 some distance southward. 
 
 Tuxedni Harbor. Slack water before the ebb occurs 45 minutes 
 after the time of high water at Kodiak, and slack water before the 
 flood 1 hour and 45 minutes after the time of low water at Kodiak. 
 The greatest observed currents are 2.2 knots on the ebb and 1.7 knots 
 on the flood. The currents set fair with the channel. 
 
COOK INLET CURRENTS. 85 
 
 Iniskin Bay. The currents set fair with the channel. At the 
 entrance, the strength of the flood and ebb occur, respectively, 1 hour 
 and 40 minutes before the times of high and low waters at Kodiak. 
 Slack water before the flood and ebb occur, respectively, 1 hour and 
 30 minutes after the times of low and high waters at Kodiak. The 
 mean velocities of the current at the strength of the flood and ebb 
 are 1 and 1.2 knots, respectively, the greatest currents observed being 
 1.3 knots on the flood and 1.6 knots on the ebb. 
 
 Kamishak Bay. In the northern part of the bay, the currents fol- 
 low the coast, flooding northeastward and ebbing southwestward at 
 a rate of 1 knot at strength. The current seemed to flood inside of 
 Augustine Island and then flow toward Chinitna Point. A slight 
 set northward was observed on the flood, and westward on the ebb. 
 The current was more noticeable near the shore. With a strong 
 westerly wind, tide rips occur about 2 to 4 miles north of Chinitna 
 Point. A very slight current was observed off Rocky Bay, and at time 
 of low water a small rip was seen near the reefs off Rocky Bay. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, COOK INLET. 
 
 The tidal currents have great velocity in Cook Inlet and must be 
 considered at all times. The small local steam vessels plan their 
 trips so as to have a favorable current, and prefer to anchor rather 
 than steam against a current of a large tide. 
 
 A vessel with a speed of 8 knots, picking up a flood current of a 
 large tide a little northward of Anchor Point, can carry it to Fire 
 Island. 
 
 The shoals fringing the shores of Cook Inlet are generally strewn 
 with bowlders, and the lead is not a sufficient guide to avoid them. 
 As a measure of safety deep-draft vessels should avoid areas with 
 depths less than 10 fathoms southward of the Forelands. The fol- 
 lowing courses are suggested : 
 
 From a position with Cape Elizabeth bearing 359 true (NNW ^ 
 W mag.) distant 5^ miles, make good a 335 true (NW Y% W mag.) 
 course for 13 Y^ miles, passing 2 miles off the outer rocks near Cape 
 Elizabeth and Point A.dam; Flat Island light should then bear 28 
 true (N y E mag.) distant 41/2 miles. 
 
 Then make good a true (NNW % W mag.) course for 31 miles 
 to a position with Anchor Point light abeam, distant 6 miles. 
 
 Then make good a 16 true (N y% W mag.) course for 43 miles to 
 a position with the northeast point of Kalgin Island abeam, distant 
 5 miles. 
 
 Then make good a 12 true (N by W J4 W mag.) course passing 
 midway between East and West Forelands, and continue the course 
 for a total distance made good of 19 miles. 
 
 Then bring the southeast end of West Foreland astern on a 57 
 true (NNE y% E mag.) course, and make good this course lor 45 
 miles to a position % to 1 mile northwestward of Race Point, Fire 
 Island. To make good this course, it is imperative to make proper 
 allowance for the currents setting to or from Turnagain Arm. An 
 allowance of as much as two points is sometimes necessary. 
 
 Passing % to 1 mile off Race Point, a 65 true (NE % N mag.) 
 course for Point Mackenzie leads in about the best water across the 
 bar at the entrance to Knik Arm. Having in mind, however, the 
 
86 COOK INLET - DIRECTIONS. 
 
 difficulties of navigation due to strong currents and swirls, vessels 
 should not depend on finding a greater depth than 17 feet at mean 
 lower low waters. Vessels of less than 15 feet draft going at mod- 
 erate speed should experience no difficulty at mean lower low water; 
 those of greater draft should wait for sufficient tide to insure a safe 
 passage. When Point Woronzof bears southward of 95 true (ENE 
 mag.) the bar will have been passed and a mid-channel course should 
 then be followed until up with Cairn Point, above which the channel 
 favors the western shore as shown on the chart. 
 
 It is important to have in mind the minus tides on the bar at the 
 entrance of Knik Arm. See tides preceding. 
 
 PORT CHATHAM 
 
 lies northward of Elizabeth Island, and has a 25 true (N mag.) 
 direction for 2 miles, narrowing from about 2 miles to ^ mile. It 
 then turns to about 115 true (E mag.) for lJ/ miles with a width 
 of ^g to % mile. It is a secure harbor for vessels of any size and 
 easily entered in the daytime with clear weather. During heavy 
 gales some williwaws are felt at the anchorage, but they are not 
 dangerous. Southward of Chatham Island the shores are foul, but 
 northward of it the main part of the harbor is clear. The dangers 
 are marked by kelp with the water below half tide. The mountains 
 on either side of the harbor and approach rise abruptly from the 
 water and are wooded about halfway to the summits. 
 
 Claim Point, on the west side at the entrance, is a wooded hill 220 
 feet high, with a low wooded neck back of it. Bare rocks and kelp 
 extend about 400 yards off the southeast side of the point. The bay 
 between Claim Point and Kelp Point has considerable foul ground, 
 and there are depths of 4 to 6 fathoms in the entrance. 
 
 Kelp Point is on the west side ^ mile northeastward from Claim 
 Point. A bare rock lies 250 yards southeastward from Kelp Point, 
 and kelp extends J mile eastward from the rock toward Chatham 
 Island. Care should be taken to avoid it at high water when the kelp 
 does not show. 
 
 Chatham Island, small, low, rocky, and partly wooded, lies in the 
 
 middle of the port about 1 % miles inside the entrance. The channel 
 is west of the island, and the only known danger is a rock with 7 
 feet over it, marked by kelp except near high water, nearly in the 
 middle 354 true (NNW % W mag.) from the island. There is 
 deep water on either side of the rock. A depth of 5 fathoms, wuth a 
 possibility of less, was found 250 yards 230** true (SSW y W mag.) 
 from the western end of Chatham Island. 
 
 The passage east of Chatham Island is foul and should not be 
 attempted by strangers. A rock, with 13 feet over it and marked by 
 kelp, fies y% mil 6 from the eastern shore and over ^g mile 165 true 
 (SE % S mag.) from the western end of Chatham Island. 
 
 On the east side, % mile north-northeastward from Chatham Island, 
 is a projecting, rocky, wooded point, where the port changes direction. 
 The opposite side, northeastward from this point, is a low, grassy spit, 
 wooded near its eastern end. The best anchorage is in the broad part 
 of the harbor % to J mile eastward of this spit, in 10 to 13 fathoms, 
 soft bottom. At the eastern end of the harbor are some rocks showing 
 but little above high water. On the south shore, 188 true (S by E 
 
PORT CHATHAM. 87 
 
 y^ E mag.) from these rocks, fresh water can be conveniently obtained 
 by boats, which can be placed under a waterfall at the higher stages 
 of the tide. 
 
 Tides. High and low water occur about the same time as at Kodiak, 
 and the mean rise and fall of the tides is 12.1 feet. To find the height 
 of the tide at Port Chatham, multiply the height of the corresponding 
 tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 1.75. The tidal currents have 
 little velocity in the entrance and harbor, but in the approach on 
 either side of Elizabeth Island there are strong tidal currents, and at 
 times heavy tide rips. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, PORT CHATHAM. 
 
 The entrance and harbor of Port Chatham are very broken and not 
 completely developed. As a measure of safety vessels should proceed 
 with caution in the vicinity of broken areas where abrupt changes in 
 depth are indicated by the chart to depths less than about 15 fathoms. 
 
 From eastward. Follow the directions for passing inside Pearl and 
 Elizabeth Islands preceding, until up with Elizabeth Island, and then 
 steer 356 true (NNW J^ W mag.) with Nagahut Rocks astern and 
 Chatham Island a little on the starboard bow. Pass 500 yards south- 
 westward of Chatham Island and steer 47 true (NNE mag.), passing 
 150 to 200 yards westward of the island. When inside the prominent 
 point y% mile above it, steer about 109 true (E 3^ N mag.) in mid- 
 channel for % mile to the anchorage. 
 
 From westward. Reverse the direction forpassing inside Pearl and 
 Elizabeth Islands, page 78, until approaching Elizabeth Island, or enter 
 about midway between Elizabeth Island and the shore northwestward. 
 Then steer about 47 true (NNE mag.) for the west end of Chatham 
 Island with the hummock at the west end of Elizabeth Island astern. 
 Pass 500 yards southwestward and 150 to 200 yards westward of 
 Chatham Island and continue to anchorage as directed in the preceding 
 paragraph. 
 
 COAST FROM PORT CHATHAM TO SELDOVIA. 
 
 Koyuktolik Bay, about 3 miles westward of Port Chatham, is 1J^ 
 miles long, with a uniform width of about 1 mile. Its north shore 
 consists of bare rocky cliffs, while the south shores are lower, the 
 souih entrance point consisting of a low yellow bluff. The entrance 
 is clear, with depths of 14 to 16 fathoms, except for a reef which 
 makes off about 600 yards from the yellow bluff point. A sand and 
 gravel shoal makes out about Y% mile from the stream in the south- 
 east corner at the head of the bay. 
 
 Temporary anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, hard bottom, may be 
 found 1/2 m il e from the head of the bay. It is probable, however, 
 that in any heavy weather a considerable swell reaches this anchorage. 
 
 Point Adam, 6^ miles 336 true (NW % W mag.) from Cape 
 Elizabeth, is low at the end, and rises in a steep grassy slope to 
 mountains. 
 
 Magnet Rock lies 3J4 miles 345 true (NW % N mag.) from Point 
 Adam and about % mile from the coast in the vicinity of Point Bede. 
 It is small, black, and prominent. 
 
 Flat Islet, \y% miles 13 true (N by W mag.) from Magnet Rock, 
 is small, flat, grass-covered, and about 50 feet high, and is two closely 
 
88 PORT CHATHAM TO SELDOVIA. 
 
 connected islands joined by bare reefs. There is a light on the 
 northwest part of the island. 
 
 Port Graham is described below. 
 
 There is a prominent, flat=-topped, grassy point, with rocky sides 
 and about 50 feet high, 63^ miles northward of Flat Islet and 1^4 
 miles northward of Dangerous Cape. Its end is detached. At this 
 point the coast changes direction northeastward for about 5 miles 
 to Seldovia Bay. 
 
 Kelp extends % m il e on? the bight lying 2 miles south westward 
 of Point Naskowhak. 
 
 PORT GRAHAM, 
 
 on the east side of Cook Inlet, 4 miles northward of Flat Island, is a 
 secure harbor inside Passage Island, and with care is easily entered 
 in the daytime. Its entrance, between Russian Point and Danger- 
 ous Cape, is about 2 miles wide, and has extensive outlying reefs, 
 covered at various stages of the tide. The dangers are generally 
 steep-to and are marked by kelp in summer and fall. 
 
 Russian Point, orf the south side of the entrance, lies about 2% 
 miles northeastward of Flat Island. Alexandrovsk, a small Indian 
 village with a Greek church, is on the northeast side of English Bay, 
 300 to 400 yards southeastward of the point. 
 
 English Bay, the open bight south of Russian Point, is not sur- 
 veyed and should be avoided by strangers. English Bay Reef, bare 
 at low water, lies about % mile off the bay and 1 mile 268 true 
 (SW by W % W mag.) from Russian Point. Foul ground also extends 
 nearly ^ mile westward of Russian Point. 
 
 A reef bare at low water extends 600 yards northward from Rus- 
 sian Point. Between this reef and that extending J mile south- 
 westward from Passage Island is a channel 250 yards wide, with 
 depths of 6 to 8 fathoms on the rocky bar, leading into Port Graham 
 southward of Passage Island. A small reef, with 7 feet over it, lies 
 % mile inside Russian Point and 400 yards from the southern shore; 
 the channel is northward of it. 
 
 Dangerous Cape, on the north side at the entrance, lies 5 miles 
 northward of Flat Island. A reef extends % mile westward from 
 the western side of the cape; there are two rocks bare at low water, 
 and a rock with 7 feet over it lies nearly % mile from shore. 
 
 A reef, with bare rocks and some that cover, extends 650 yards 
 southward from Dangerous Cape. 
 
 Bird Reef, 250 yards long, lies ^2 to ^ m ile southward from Dan- 
 gerous Cape. The highest rock at the north end of the reef is cov- 
 ered at extreme high tide. A rock with 3 feet over it and marked 
 by kelp lies nearly J^ mu<e northeastward from the north end of 
 Bird Reef. 
 
 Midway between this reef and Passage Island and ^ mile from 
 the north shore is a small shoal with 2^ fathoms and kelp. Vessels 
 should pass southward of it, as another shoal with kelp makes out 
 650 yards irom the shore inside it, and there are probably bowlders 
 on the shoals. 
 
 Passage Island, 1 mile inside the entrance, is 140 feet high and 
 wooded. It is generally fringed with reefs to a distance of 150 yards, 
 and a shelving spit, covered at high water, extends 350 yards east- 
 ward from its eastern end. A reef, with numerous rocks, bare and 
 
PORT GRAHAM. 89 
 
 covered at various stages of the tide, extends % mile southwestward 
 from the western end of the island. The northern end of the island 
 is marked by a light. 
 
 A rock, bare at low water, lies 250 yards west-southwestward from 
 the point on the north shore northeastward of Passage Island. This 
 is the worst danger in the entrance north ol the island. The channel 
 lias a width of 300 yards between the rock and the reef fringing 
 Passage Island. 
 
 Above Passage Island the port is 4J^ miles long and J/ to % mile 
 wide, with depths of 10 to 17 fathoms. The shores are generally 
 fringed with kelp to a distance ol 200 yards. The only serious danger 
 is a narrow, sunken reef with kelp which extends halfway across the 
 port from the northern shore % mile above Passage Island, and is 
 marked at its south end by a black buoy. There are small streams 
 on the shores of the port and a large stream and valley at its head. 
 
 There are a cannery and wharf on the south side 1% miles above 
 Passage Island. There is a depth of 18 feet at its end. Water can 
 be obtained through pipe and hose, and small quantities of coal are 
 generally kept on hand. There is a small store. 
 
 Anchorage. Temporary anchorage for a small vessel can be selected 
 in the middle of Coal Cove, inside Dangerous Cape, in 5 to 10 fath- 
 oms, rocky bottom; the shore ol the cove is fringed with kelp to a 
 distance of 350 yards, and the cove should be used with caution. A 
 better anchorage with more room will be found in the bight on the 
 north shore northward of Passage Island in 7 to 10 fathoms; a shoal 
 extends 400 yards from the northeast end of the bight, and kelp 
 extends 250 yards from its north shore. These anchorages are 
 exposed to a heavy swell in southerly or westerly weather. 
 
 When inside Passage Island, anchorage can be had in any part of the 
 port, the depths being 17 to 10 fathoms. One of the best is north- 
 ward or northeastward ol the wharf, in 10 to 13 fathoms, sticky bot- 
 tom. The cove southeastward of the wharf is shoal. An equally 
 good anchorage is in the middle 1 mile above the wharf, in 9 to 10 
 fathoms; above this anchorage the port narrows to ^ mile, and is 
 then shoal to the head, a distance of l^ miles. 
 
 Tides. High and low waters occur about 18 minutes later than at 
 Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides is 14.4 feet. To find 
 the height of the tide, multiply the height of the corresponding tide 
 at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 2.1. 
 
 Strong tidal currents, both ebb and flood, set across the mouth of 
 the harbor, but there is little current at or inside of Passage Island. 
 With opposing wind and current, heavy tide rips occur off and well 
 northward and southward of the entrance to Port Graham. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, PORT GRAHAM. 
 
 The safest time to enter the port is at low water, and the better 
 entrance is north of Passage Island. The channel south of Passage 
 Island should not be used by strangers. 
 
 From southward, pass 1 to \y% miles westward of Flat Island and 
 steer for the prominent coast point northward of Port Graham, 
 course about 41 true (N by E J^ E mag.). When the village of 
 Alexandrovsk is abeam, head in with Passage Island a little on the 
 starboard bow, course about 92 true (ENE mag.), and pass about 
 300 yards northwestward of the light on the north end of the island. 
 
90 PORT GRAHAM. 
 
 Pass 200 to not over 300 yards northeastward of the light on the 
 north end of Passage Island and steer 129 true (ESE % E mag.), 
 passing midway between the east end of the island and the point on 
 the north shore. Continue the course 300 yards past the island, and 
 then steer 157 true (SE ^ E mag.), with the point on the north 
 shore astern, and pass westward and southward of black can buoy 
 No. 1. Then keep in mid-channel. A flat extends 1J4 miles from 
 the head of the port, and the cove in the south shore southeastward 
 of the wharf is snoal. 
 
 From northward. Follow the shore northward of the port on a 
 210 true (S J^ W mag.) course, and pass over 1 mile westward of 
 Dangerous Cape. Then steer for the village of Alexandrovsk, course 
 about 168 true (SE % S mag.), and when Bird Reef is about J/ mile 
 on the port beam steer for the summit of Passage Island, course about 
 120 true (E ^ S mag.). When the point on the north shore north- 
 eastward of Passage Island bears 103 true (E by N mag.), steer for 
 it and pass about 300 yards northwestward of the light on the north 
 end of Passage Island. Then follow the directions in the preceding 
 paragraph. 
 
 SELDOVIA BAY, 
 
 on the southeast side of Kachemak Bay, eastern shore of Cook Inlet, 
 is a secure harbor in any weather. It extends 2 miles in a 176 true 
 (SSE y<i E mag.) direction to Powder Island, with a width of j/^ to 
 % mile, and then turns to 147 true (SE by E mag.) for 2 miles. 
 The head of the bay is shoal down to J/ mile southeastward of Powder 
 Island. 
 
 From the entrance until nearly up with the wharf, shoals with 10 
 to 12 feet in places on their eastern part extend halfway across the 
 harbor from the western shore. The channel is between the shoals and 
 several rocks and kelp patches near the eastern shore, and varies in 
 width from 150 to 400 yards. The channel has a depth of 18 feet or 
 more at low water, with a rise and fall of tides of 16 to 24 feet. The 
 shoals and rocks are marked by kelp at slack water in summer and 
 fall, but it is run under during the strength of the tidal currents. 
 
 Point Naskowhak, the western point at the entrance, is the north- 
 west one of two small, high, rocky, wooded knobs which stand on a 
 low, grassy spit surrounding a lagoon. A reef extends nearly % mile 
 northward from the point, and broken ground, marked by kelp, with 
 26 feet at its end, extends nearly y^ mile 41 true (N by E ^ E 
 mag.) from it. Two kelp patches, in which the least depth found is 
 18 feet, lie 600 to 700 yards northeastward from the point. 
 
 Gray Cliff, the eastern point at the entrance, is a bare rock cliff 60 
 to 70 feet high, and is marked at the south end by a light. 
 
 Seldovia Point, lying 1 mile northward of Gray Cliff, is a cliff 200 
 feet high, wooded on top. Kelp extends % mile from the shore in 
 the bight northeastward of Seldovia Point. 
 
 On the eastern side of the harbor, nearly % mile southward of Gray 
 Cliff, is a prominent high, reddish bluff, which is a good mark. 
 
 A rock, bare 4 feet at low water, lies 300 yards southwestward from 
 the red bluff, with foul ground between. This rock is steep-to on its 
 western side, and is the principal danger in the harbor. It is marked 
 by a buoy. 
 
SELDOVIA BAY. 9l 
 
 A high, pointed rock with some dead brush on top lies near the east- 
 ern shore about midway between the rock and Watch Point. 
 
 Watch Point, on the eastern shore, Y% mile southward of the red 
 bluff, is a small, grassy head, about 30 feet high, with a few trees, and 
 a short, low, grassy neck behind it. 
 
 A rock, with 15 feet over it and marked by kelp, lies 150 yards 210 
 true (S Yi W mag.) from Watch Point. The channel is westward of 
 the rock. 
 
 Seldovia is a village and post office, with several stores, a small hotel, 
 and a Greek church, on the eastern side of the harbor, % mile south- 
 eastward of Watch Point. The village has a few white men and about 
 100 Indians. A shoal, partly bare at low water, extends 200 yards 
 southwestward from the point at the village, and the cove south- 
 eastward of it is nearly dry at a good low water. The southwest side 
 of the cove is formed by a grassy head with a few trees about 75 feet 
 high, which at its southeast end, at the inner end of the wharf, is 
 joined to the shore by a low, narrow spit. 
 
 A cannery and wharf are on the eastern side of the harbor, % mile 
 southward of Watch Point. The wharf has a depth of about 11 feet 
 at its end. Water can be obtained through pipe and hose. The 
 cannery shows, when approaching the harbor from southwestward, 
 over the low spit westward of the entrance. When in the harbor the 
 wharf is hidden until nearly up with it by the grassy head northwest- 
 ward. 
 
 The best anchorage in the harbor is in the middle, about y% mile 
 238 true (SW by S mag.) from the wharf, in 9 to 10 fathoms, sticky 
 bottom. A small vesselcan anchor in the channel off the village, with 
 the high, red bluff open westward from Watch Point, and the Greek 
 church bearing 86 true (NE by E Y^ E. mag.), in 5 fathoms. 
 
 Tides. High and low water occur 27 minutes later than at Kodiak. 
 To find the height of the tide, multiply the height of the corresponding 
 tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 2.23. The tidal currents have 
 an estimated velocity of 1 to 2 knots at strength. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, SELDOVIA BAY. 
 
 Steer for the north end of Gray Cliff on a 137 true (ESE mag.) 
 course until Point Naskowhak is a little forward of the beam. Then 
 steer for Watch Point in range with the pinnacle rock off the north 
 side of the wooded head lying northwestward of the wharf, course 
 168 true (SE %S mag.). A spot on Watch Point and the pinnacle 
 rock are kept whitewashed; otherwise the pinnacle rock blends with 
 the background. The course on the range should lead about 300 
 yards westward of Gray Cliff and about 50 yards westward of the 
 rock, bare at low water. 
 
 When about 350 yards from Watch Point, and the high, pointed 
 rock near the eastern shore is forward of the beam, steer 193 true 
 (S by E mag.) and pass 125 to 150 yards westward of Watch Point. 
 When about 200 yards past the point and the graveyard on the east- 
 ern shore is abaft the beam, steer 176 true (SSE J^ E mag.) and 
 pass 200 yards off the point northwestward of the wharf. In going 
 to the wharf, give the shore northwestward of it a berth of 100 yards. 
 
92 COOK INLET. 
 
 EASTERN SHORE OF COOK INLET. 
 
 The eastern shore at the entrance of Cook Inlet is mountainous, 
 with steep slopes from the water in the vicinity of Point Adam and 
 Point Bede. The mountains trend northeastward between Kache- 
 mak Bay and the sea, and then extend across to the head of Turn- 
 again Arm. The greatest elevations occur about halfway up Keriai 
 Peninsula, where there are numerous glaciers. The coast and har- 
 bors from Port Chatham to Seldovia are included in the description 
 preceding. 
 
 Kachemak Bay has secure anchorages at Kahsitsnah Bay and Coal 
 Bay; above the latter the head of Kachemak Bay is not surveyed. 
 
 The point 2 miles northeastward of Seldovia Point is low, sandy, 
 and prominent. 
 
 Nubble Point is a long sandspit terminating in a rocky knoll, which 
 may be mistaken for Point Naskowhak if not sure of the position. 
 The easterly part of the point is wooded. 
 
 Kahsitsnah Bay, between Nubble Point and Herring Islets, affords 
 good anchorage in 12 to 15 fathoms, good holding ground. The water 
 shoals abruptly to the shore, and to the flat which fills the cove formed 
 by Nubble Point; but the flat in the cove will be avoided by keeping 
 the easterly end of the point bearing westward of 14 true (N by W 
 mag.). 
 
 A rock, bare at extreme low water and marked by heavy kelp, lies 
 Yz mile 59 true (NE by N mag.) from the north end of Nubble Point. 
 A least depth of 14 fathoms was found between the rock and Nubble 
 Point, by giving the north end of the point a berth of over 200 yards. 
 
 Hesketh, Yukon, and Cohen Islands are high and wooded. There 
 is an islet on the reef which extends J^ mile northwestward from 
 Hesketh Island. A rock 60 feet high lies near the north end of a reef 
 which extends J^ mile northward from Cohen Island. There is a 
 prominent yellow cliff on the west end of Cohen Island. . The pas- 
 sages between the islands should be avoided. Eldred Passage, east- 
 ward of the islands, is deep near the middle, except at the north end, 
 where there is a bar on which the least depths found are 8 to 12 
 fathoms. 
 
 Tutka Bay has no desirable anchorage and is not completely sur- 
 veyed. Broken ground, on which some pinnacle rocks have been 
 found, extends across the entrance. 
 
 Sadie Cove, the inlet in the east side of Eldred Passage, is not com- 
 pletely surveyed, but is apparently clear near mid-channel. 
 
 A rock, bare at low water, lies ft mile northward of the point lying 
 1 Y^ miles northeastward of Cohen Island, and the bight eastward of 
 the point is foul. 
 
 Gull Island is a prominent pile of bare rocks, visible about 10 miles; 
 above the island Kachemak Bay is not surveyed. 
 
 Homer Spit is a low gravel and shingle spit, 3J^ miles long, from 
 100 to 500 yards wide, and covered with grass and some trees. Homer, 
 a village at the end of the spit, is practically abandoned. A wharf 
 on the north side of the spit near its end is dry at lowest tides. 
 
 There is excellent anchorage at a distance of % mile or more north- 
 westward of the wharf, in 10 to 15 fathoms, soft bottom. Greater 
 depths and abrupt shoaling are found near the wharf, and It is not 
 
COOK INLET EASTERN SHORE. 93 
 
 safe to anchor in less than 18 fathoms. Coal Bay, the bight north- 
 west of Homer, is shoal, but there are no outlying dangers. 
 
 From Homer Spit to Anchor Point the coast is a line of bluffs, with 
 a greatest height of 750 feet at Bluff Point. In front of the bluffs 
 there is a narrow, rocky and shingle beach. The depths inside the 
 10-fathom curve are rocky and irregular, and there is a possibility of 
 detached bowlders not found by the survey. There is a light on 
 Anchor Point. 
 
 From northward of Anchor Point to Cape Ninilchik the coast is 
 free from dangers so far as known, and anchorage can be selected, the 
 bottom being sandy. The surveying vessel frequently used an anchor- 
 age close inshore just northward of Cape Starichkof, in 6 to 7 fathoms 
 (low water). The holding ground is fair, and there is some shelter 
 from southerly weather. 
 
 The hill, 1,900 feet high, lying 10 miles from the shore between Cape 
 Starichkof and Cape Ninilchik, is a sharp peak with a high saddle 
 between it and a slightly lower peak just southward, and is the only 
 prominent feature between Anchor Point and the Forelands. 
 
 Ninilchik is a small native settlement with a Greek church at the 
 mouth of a small stream. The church and a part of the village are 
 prominent from well offshore. 
 
 North of Cape Ninilchik the coast is very foul, being characterized 
 by immense bowlders not marked by kelp. The bowlders rest 
 apparently on a comparatively flat bottom, so that soundings give no 
 indication of them. From the appearance of those found and the 
 soundings taken alongside, it is probable that there are many of the 
 same character not found by the survey. 
 
 The Sisters are three prominent rocks, close together and the 
 largest showing about 5 feet above high water. The foul ground 
 inside the Sisters and extending about 10 miles southward from Cape 
 Kasilof is strewn with bowlders from 15 to 50 feet high, of which the 
 Sisters are the largest. There are many bowlders in this area not 
 located by the survey. 
 
 There is a break in the high bluffs on the eastern shore between Cape 
 Kasilof and Kenai. 
 
 Temporary anchorage can be had in 4 fathoms about ^ mile from 
 shore a little southward of Cape Kasilof. This anchorage is exposed 
 except in northeasterly weather. 
 
 Kasilof is a cannery on the northern bank at the mouth of Kasilof 
 River. An extensive flat with bowlders in places fills the bight 
 between Cape Kasilof and the mouth of the river, and extends offshore 
 2 1/2 miles. A narrow winding channel, nearly dry in places at low 
 water, leads through the inner shoals to the mouth of the river. This 
 channel is marked for the cannery steamers and launches during the 
 season. The river is narrow and has a strong current. Boats up to 
 6 feet draft can lie afloat in the river at low water. 
 
 To anchor off the cannery, stand for it on a 105 true (E by N 
 mag.) course. Keep the lead going and anchor 3 to 4 miles from the 
 cannery, in a depth not less than 5 fathoms at low water. 
 
 Karluk Reef, partly bare at low water, is 2)^ miles long, its southern 
 end lying 4 miles 298 true (W % N mag.) from Kasilof cannery. 
 There are shoals between it and the shore. 
 
 Kenai is a cannery and post office on the northern bank at the 
 mouth of Kenai River. Extensive bowlder flats make off about 3 
 
94 COOK INLET EASTERN SHORE. 
 
 miles from the mouth of the river. Salmo Rock, which shows well at 
 low water, is one of the outer ones of numerous scattered bowlders 
 located by the survey, and lies 2% miles 232 true (SSW % W mag.) 
 from Kenai Church. It is generally marked by a buoy, maintained 
 by the cannery vessels. The bar at the entrance of the river is nearly 
 dry at low water, and there are depths of 8 to 10 feet in places in the 
 channel in the river. The tidal currents in Kenai River have a veloc- 
 ity of 3 to 6 knots. The currents turn about 1 hour after high water 
 and about 2 hours after low water. 
 
 Salamato is an old village 4J^ miles northward of Kenai and 6 miles 
 southeastward of East Foreland. 
 
 East Foreland is a prominent, nearly level, wooded headland, with 
 a bluff at the water 276 feet high. There is a light on the highest 
 point of the bluff. A dangerous shoal with a least found depth of 
 17 feet (about 11 feet at lowest tides) lies 2 miles from the eastern 
 shore for a distance of 3 miles southeastward from East Foreland. 
 The area is not thoroughly developed. 
 
 Nikishka is a fish trap and house 2}^ miles northeastward of East 
 Foreland. There is good anchorage for a small vessel, sheltered 
 from all easterly winds, % to J^ mile from shore abreast or a little 
 below the fish house, bearing 151 true (SE by E mag.), in about 
 6 fathoms, good holding ground. An anchorage farther southwest- 
 ward is not desirable, as the holding ground is not as good and the 
 ebb current increases greatly in velocity on approaching East Fore- 
 land. Fresh water in small quantities may be had by boats at 
 high water from a seepage just north of the fish house. Water in 
 larger quantities may be had from a stream % mile northeastward 
 of the fish house, but the flow does not usually last through the 
 summer. 
 
 From the fish house northward nearly to Boulder Point, a distance 
 of 2 J/2 miles, bowlder shoals, bare in places at low water, extend % 
 mile from shore. 
 
 Middle Ground Shoal, in the form of a long ridge of hard sand with 
 rocky bottom in places, lies in the middle of the inlet 10 miles north- 
 ward of East Foreland. It shows at low water for a distance of 3^ 
 miles in a northeasterly and southwesterly (magnetic) direction, 
 and its greatest height above low water is about 6 feet. 
 
 Beginning at Boulder Point, a prominent bowlder reef with but 
 few breaks in it extends along shore to Moose Point, a distance of 
 20 miles. For the greater part of this distance the bowlders, some 
 very large, show at low water to a distance of 2 miles from shore, 
 and there are occasional ones which show above high water. A rock 
 awash at low water lies 3J/2 miles from shore and 4 miles 346 true 
 (NW y% N mag.) from Gray Cliff; there is a depth of 10 fathoms 
 close to the west side of the rock. Owing to the size of the bowiders 
 along this shore, it is not safe to skirt it in a less depth than about 
 5 fathoms greater than the draft. 
 
 There is a prominent yellowish bluff 4 miles northeastward of 
 Boulder Point. Gray Cliff, 164 feet high, lies 10 miles northeast- 
 ward of Boulder Point, and is a good mark from the inlet. There 
 is a break in the bowlder reef off Gray Cliff, and a small vessel may 
 here approach the shore as close as % mile, and find anchorage in 
 about 5 fathoms, mud bottom, sheltered from easterly and south- 
 easterly weather. 
 
COOK INLET EASTERN SHORE. 95 
 
 Moose Point is low and wooded, with a grassy flat at its end, and 
 is not prominent. Between it and Point Possession, a distance of 
 10 miles, there are few bowlders so far as known, but the bottom is 
 generally rocky and irregular. Moose Point Shoal, 5 miles long and 
 partly bare at low water, begins just above Moose Point, and lies 
 from 1J4 to 2J4 miles from shore. 
 
 About 6 miles northeastward of Moose Point there is a prominent 
 reddish bluff, on the north side of which is a small stream in a deep 
 canyon, the latter showing from southwestward. 
 
 Point Possession is a low, rounding, heavily wooded headland, 
 with a bluff at the water. There is a small native village on the 
 western side of the point, where the bluff is low and a valley leads 
 inland. The bluff is 140 feet high J^J mile southward of the village, 
 and from the village the bluff increases in height northeastward 
 around into Turnagain Arm to a greatest elevation of 284 feet at 
 Grand View. 
 
 A reef extends about 1 mile off the northwest side of Point Pos- 
 session for a distance of about* % mile northward of the village. 
 There are depths of 3 fathoms on its western edge ; the northern edge 
 drops off abruptly to depths of 12 to 20 fathoms. The range of 
 the eastern side of Fire Island and Point Woronzof leads close to 
 the western edge of the reef, and care should be taken when round- 
 ing the point at low water not to open this range until well clear 
 of the reef. A current line generally indicates the edge of the reef 
 when the tidal current is strong in either direction. 
 
 Temporary anchorage for a small vessel may be had % mile from 
 shore and 2 miles southward of the village in 4 fathoms, sandy bot- 
 tom. It is sheltered from easterly and southeasterly winds, but 
 considerable sea makes around Point Possession at times from the 
 violent northeasterly winds that blow at intervals out of Turn- 
 again Arm. 
 
 On the north side of Point Possession, temporary anchorage for 
 a small vessel can be had in 4 fathoms, hard bottom, J mile off a 
 gulch at the western end of a high bluff 1% miles northeastward 
 of the village. The anchorage is inside of the strong tidal currents 
 that set in and out of Turnagain Arm. Water can be secured by 
 boats at high water from the gulch, but in the late summer the flow 
 is small and the water discolored by flowing over the clay bluff. 
 
 Turnagain Arm is partially surveyed, the shore line being correct. 
 Most of the arm at low water is a large mud flat interspersed with 
 winding sloughs, and navigation is safe only for small craft of 6 feet 
 or less draft. Local knowledge is necessary since the channels wind 
 from side to side and are subject to change, and strong currents and 
 tide rips increase the difficulties of navigation. The flood tide comes 
 in at spring tides as a bore, sometimes attaining a height of 6 feet. It 
 travels about 6 knots, but the velocity of the current may exceed 
 that in places. 
 
 Small craft generally use the anchorage on the west side of Fire 
 Island until the conditions are favorable for proceeding up Turnagain 
 Arm. The only anchorage in the arm is in the narrow channel close 
 to the shore northward of Burnt Island; but it is exceedingly uncom- 
 fortable and even dangerous for launches when the strong easterly 
 winds are blowing down the arm. For launches the best thing to do 
 is to beach them on a gradually sloping, smooth sand beach in the 
 
96 COOK INLET EASTERN SHORE. 
 
 bight on the west side of Gull Rock or the bight on the west side of 
 the small point 2 miles westward of Gull Rock. 
 
 Hope, Sunrise, and Girdwood have stores, and can be reached by 
 small craft at high water. In 1914 mail and freight for these places 
 came by launches from Knik Arm. 
 
 Turnagain Arm is noted for the violent winds which blow out of 
 it whenever the wind is easterly, and is locally referred to as the 
 " Cannon," which expresses the opinion held of it. With light to 
 moderate easterly winds in other parts of the inlet, a moderate gale 
 will frequently blow out of the arm and a heavy sea and tide rips 
 will be raised from its mouth across to Ladd on the western shore. 
 
 Fire Island is wooded and has a greatest elevation of 350 feet near 
 its middle. Its southern part is broken, there being some high sand 
 hills with bare summits, between which is a lake. There is another 
 lake near the north end of the island. The shore is high bluffs, 
 except the northern and southern ends of the island, which are low. 
 There are no streams on the island, and after the snow is melted the 
 island is dry except for the lakes. Except in late summer some fresh 
 water may be haa at a depth of a few feet at the foot of the low bluff 
 on the shore northwestward of the lake near the south end. 
 
 There is good anchorage for a small vessel in the northern part of 
 the bight on the western side of Fire Island, in 4 to 5 fathoms, hard 
 bottom. It is about J^ mile from shore and about 1 mile from Race 
 Point, with the highest hill near the middle of the island bearing about 
 128 true (E by S mag.). The current is strong here throughout 
 the flood, but tne ebb current has little velocity and after the first 2 
 hours of ebb is nearly slack. With fresh southwesterly, northwesterly, 
 or northerly winds the anchorage is untenable, as a rough sea and 
 tide rips prevail. 
 
 Fire Island is joined to Point Campbell by a flat, bare at low water. 
 A flat, bare at low water, fills the bight on the west side of Fire Island 
 and extends about % mile northwestward from Fire Island light, at 
 the southwest end of the island. 
 
 There is a sand shoal or bar about 2 miles northward of Fire Island 
 on the crest of which the least depth found is 17 feet. Having in 
 mind the difficulties of navigation due to strong currents and swirls, 
 vessels will find it difficult to avoid the shoal places in the absence of 
 aids. With the minus tides, and especially with strong northerly 
 winds, the low tides may fall as much as 6 feet lower than the plane 
 of reference, and vessels of more than about 10 feet draft should wait 
 for sufficient tide to insure a safe passage at lowest tides. 
 
 Knik Arm has sufficient depth for deep-draft vessels, with the 
 exception of the bar at its entrance which is mentioned in the pre- 
 ceding paragraph. The generally used anchorage is in the bight 
 Between Woodrow Creek and Cairn Point, 3 miles northeastward of 
 Point Mackenzie, where good depths extend fairly close to the shore. 
 Toward Cairn Point, anchorage can be selected in as little as 8 fathoms 
 at low water; toward Woodrow Creek, the anchorage depths are 
 greater. Vessels anchored close in avoid the strongest currents, 
 which have an estimated velocity of 4 knots or more at strength in 
 the middle of the arm. The currents, however, are so strong that 
 vessels should use a long scope of chain, and they will generally foul 
 the anchor if remaining over two tides. Chart 8557 is the best guide. 
 
KNIK ARM. 97 
 
 Woodrow (Anchorage post office), near the mouth of Woodrow 
 Creek, is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants. It has a post office, 
 general stores, and is a port of call for all steamship lines making 
 Cook Inlet. 
 
 The local headquarters for the construction of the government 
 railroad around Turnagain and Knik Arms are located here. Black- 
 smith and machine shops are maintained. There is communication 
 with Seward by telephone and telegraph. There are at present no 
 wharves to which vessels may go; freight is handled by means of 
 lighters. 
 
 Goose Bay is a slight indentation on the west side of Knik Arm, 7 
 miles above Cairn Point. A cannery is located here, with a wharf 
 having a depth at the end of about 30 feet at low tide. The channel 
 is narrow here, and the currents are very strong; in making the wharf 
 a vessel should first drop an anchor and swing to it. 
 
 From a point about 5 miles above Cairn Point the head of the arm 
 is obstructed by extensive mud flats which bare soon after high water. 
 These flats are cut by numerous channels and sloughs leading from 
 the. various streams. The main channel to the head of the arm lies 
 close to the west shore at the point just above Goose Bay, thence 
 diagonally outward to the middle of the arm, and up the middle to 
 the head. It is narrow and intricate, navigable only on the tide, and 
 then only with local knowledge. 
 
 Knik is a village on the western side of the arm, about 15 miles 
 above Point Mackenzie, to which small craft go at high water and lie 
 on the bottom at the ends of the landings at low water. Above 
 Goose Bay, the channel to Knik lies close along the western shore. 
 This channel is said to be filling in at present. 
 
 WESTERN SHORE OF COOK INLET. 
 
 On the western side of Cook Inlet, from Cape Douglas to Chisik 
 Island, the mountains generally rise abruptly from the water, and 
 Iliamna and Eedoubt Volcanoes tower well above the surrounding 
 peaks, affording excellent marks from ah 1 parts of the lower inlet. 
 ^Northward from Redoubt Volcano the higher snow-clad peaks trend 
 away from the inlet, passing through the lofty Mount Spurr. 
 
 Kamishak Bay is not surveyed southward of Rocky Cove and 
 Augustine Island. Its south and west sides are said to be occupied by 
 a flat as shown on the chart, and it is probable that there are numerous 
 bowlders. The shore is mountainous, with cliffs and slides in many 
 places, and there is no timber except at the north end of the bay. 
 From Iniskin Bay to Chinitna Bay the lower lands are about half 
 wooded. There are sand beaches in the bights and bays, which are 
 covered, however, at high water. 
 
 Kamishak Bay is characterized by bowlders, which can be seen 
 strewn along the shores and extending off toward the deeper water. 
 So far as surveyed the shoaling is abrupt on approaching the reefs 
 which fringe the shores, and the lead will not serve as a guide to clear 
 them. Vessels should proceed with caution where the depths are 
 not more than about 3 fathoms greater than the draft, as there are 
 probably bowlders on the bottom. An unsurveyed bank, on which 
 4 fathoms was obtained, extends over 3 miles westward from Augus- 
 tine Island. Owing to the probability of bowlders, vessels should 
 31056 16 7 
 
98 KAMISHAK BAY. 
 
 not pass westward of Augustine Island, and great caution should be 
 exercised if attempting to pass south of the island. 
 
 Augustine Island, about 7 miles in diameter and 3,970 feet high, is 
 a volcanic, conical peak from the crater of which steam is frequently 
 discharged. The shore is low with bluffs in places, and is generally 
 strewn with bowlders. A bowlder reef extends about % mile off the 
 northwestern half of the island as shown on the chart, and this area 
 has not been closely developed. The north end of the island consists 
 of numerous small mounds of bowlders with sloughs between. The 
 west end is detached from the main island by a lagoon, the entrances 
 to which are partly blocked by bowlders. The lower parts of the 
 island are covered with brush and alder. 
 
 The surveying vessel anchored in the bight on the southwest side 
 of Augustine Island. There are no bowlders on the beach and it 
 seemed clear; it affords shelter in northerly and easterly winds. The 
 vessel approached the anchorage on a 65 true (NE % N mag.) 
 course for the volcano, and anchored in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, 
 about % mile from shore. 
 
 The surveying vessel also anchored about 1 mile off the northwest 
 side of Augustine Island, with the volcano bearing 135 true (ESE y% 
 E mag.) and the north tangent of the island bearing 75 true (NE ^ 
 E mag.) in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. Care should be taken not to 
 get nearer the island, as there are numerous bowlders. It is exposed 
 to northerly and northeasterly winds. 
 
 Augustine Rocks lie 8 miles 168 true (SE J^ S mag.) from the peak 
 of Augustine Island, and approximately 5^2 miles from the shore of 
 the island. They are two flat rocks, with a smaller one between 
 them, all covered at high water. Their position is said to be generally 
 indicated by kelp or breakers. 
 
 Bruin Bay is obstructed by numerous bowlder reefs and is not avail- 
 able as an anchorage. The upper end is bare at low water. 
 
 Rocky Cove is obstructed by reefs, bare at lowest tides, which 
 extend 2 miles offshore. 
 
 TJrsus Cove is exposed to a heavy swell in easterly weather, and the 
 bottom is very broken. 
 
 Iliamna Bay (chart 8665) is in the northwest corner of Kamishak Bay 
 about 15 miles 347 true (NW % N mag.) from the peak of Augustine 
 Island. It is 1 mile wide at the entrance and wider inside, and has 
 a length of about 5 miles to its northern end and to the head of its 
 western arm, called Cottonwood Bay. The greater part of the bay 
 is filled by a flat, but there is good anchorage just inside the entrance. 
 The shores are mountainous and there are no trees except the cotton- 
 woods on the flats at the heads of the bay. 
 
 From the small native village in the cove 1 mile from the north 
 end of Iliamna Bay, a trail about 12 statute miles long leads to 
 Iliamna, a village on a river of the same name 4 miles from Iliamna 
 Lake. The summit of the pass is about 3 miles from the bay and 
 has an elevation of about 900 feet. From Iliamna village boats 
 up to about 3 feet draft can be taken through Iliamna Lake and 
 Kvichak River to Bristol Bay. See also Iliamna Lake and Kvichak 
 River. 
 
 White Gull Island, grass-covered and about 70 feet high, is con- 
 spicuous near the middle of Iliamna Bay just inside the entrance. 
 There is a depth of 7 fathoms in the entrance north of White Gull 
 
ILIAMNA BAY. 99 
 
 Island, and the deepest water extends diagonally across to the 
 entrance of Cottonwood Bay, where the depth is 12 feet. Anchorage 
 in 4^ to 5 fathoms, soft bottom, may be had % mile inside the 
 entrance, with the northern side of White Gull Island in range with 
 the south point at the entrance, and the north point at the entrance 
 bearing 106 true (E % N mag.). The anchorage is exposed to 
 east and southeast winds and there are heavy williwaws with west- 
 erly winds, but it is regarded as secure during the summer. 
 
 In the approach to Iliamna Bay the depths are 6 to 8 fathoms 
 several miles from shore, and these depths extend close to Turtle 
 and Black Reefs so that the lead will not serve as a guide to clear 
 them. Enter the bay on a 305 true (W by N mag.) course, pass- 
 ing between the north point at the entrance and White Gull Island, 
 favoring the point slightly, and anchor % mile inside the entrance. 
 When in the l>ay the lead is a good guide, but care must be taken 
 to avoid a reef, partly bare at low water and with 2^ to 3 fathoms 
 close-to, which extends % m il e eastward (true) from the south 
 point at the entrance to Cottonwood Bay. 
 
 Turtle Reef extends over % mile eastward (true) from the south 
 point at the entrance of Iliamna Bay. The reef is largely bare at 
 low water, and is about 15 feet high at its highest point. 
 
 Black Reef lies over J/2 mile from shore and l miles 93 true 
 (ENE ^g E mag.) from the northern point at the entrance of Iliamna 
 Bay. The highest part of the reef is two rocks 5 to 10 feet high. 
 Lying }/% mile northeastward of Black Reef is another reef which 
 covers at half tide and extends l /2 mile from shore. 
 
 It is reported that Iliamna Bay does not freeze, but that drift 
 ice in large quantities sets in at times from the upper inlet. Fresh 
 water may be obtained from streams on the northeast side about 
 1 mile inside the entrance. Northerly gales prevail in winter, and 
 heavy williwaws are reported to come from the mountains on the 
 northeast shore. The prevailing summer winds are down the bay, 
 and are frequently fresh, especially on bright days. 
 
 The tidal currents at the anchorage have an estimated velocity 
 of 1 to 2 knots. 
 
 Iniskin Bay is a secure harbor in any weather, although subject 
 to some williwaws from the mountains on the west shore. The west 
 shore is formed by sharp, bare peaks about 2,900 feet high, while 
 the eastern shore is generally low and alder-covered. The western 
 side and upper part of the bay are filled with bowlder-strewn flats 
 bare at low water, and the eastern part is shoal and fringed by a 
 reef. The channel is nearly % m il e wide at the entrance and tapers 
 to a narrow slough at the head. 
 
 To enter Iniskin Bay, avoid the reefs which rise abruptly from 
 deep water and extend about 1 mile from the shore eastward of the 
 bay. Keep White Gull Island bearing northward of 278 true 
 (WSW Y% W mag.), and pass over 1 mile southward of the outer 
 islands off the entrance. When the two prominent headlands on 
 the west side of Iniskin Bay, lj/2 an d 4 miles inside the entrance, 
 are in line steer this range, course 14 true (N % W mag.) until 
 approaching the western shore. Follow this shore at a distance of 
 J mile until Range Peak, on the north side of Right Arm, is in 
 line with Iliamna Volcano, and then steer this range, course 26 
 true (N }/8 E mag.). Anchor on the range, from \y 2 to 2V> miles 
 
100 INISKIN BAY. 
 
 above Scott Island, in 7 to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, where the 
 width of the channel between the 5-fathom curves is about 700 
 yards. 
 
 Water can be obtained from the streams in Iniskin Bay, the most 
 convenient to the anchorage being a stream on the west side about 
 2 miles above the entrance. The tidal currents at the anchorage 
 have an estimated velocity of about 2 knots at strength, setting fair 
 with the channel. 
 
 Iniskin River, at the head of Iniskin Bay, is navigable for boats of 
 not more than 3 feet draft for a distance of about 2 miles above the 
 entrance. 
 
 Three small islands with outlying reefs lie on the east side of the 
 entrance of Iniskin Bay. The northerly one, called Scott Island, is 
 about 40 feet high and partly wooded, and from it a reef with rocks 
 about 15 feet high extends V^ mile northwestward. The middle 
 island is about 35 feet high, and from it a reef extends M m ile south- 
 westward. The outer island is 50 feet high on the north side, and 
 from it a reef partly bare at low water extends J^ mile southwestward ; 
 lying 1 to l}i miles southwestward from the islet is a sunken reef 
 with little depth, which does not break in heavy weather. These 
 reefs rise abruptly from depths of 7 to 8 fathoms, and the lead will 
 not serve as a guide to clear them. 
 
 From Iniskin Bay to Oil Bay the coast is fringed by a reef, which 
 extends about 1 mile from shore and rises abruptly. Many of the 
 rocks show at low water. Pomeroy Island, iy miles eastward of 
 Scott Island, is small and rocky and has a few trees on its west end. 
 A large rock about 10 feet high lies 1 mile eastward of Pomeroy Island. 
 From Iniskin Bay to Oil Bay there is a comparatively smooth pas- 
 sage for launches inside the reefs. 
 
 From Oil Bay to Chinitna Point reefs extend about 1 mile from 
 shore in places and rise abruptly from deep water. Kocks show at 
 low water close to shore only. With northerly winds small boats 
 can get some shelter in Oil Bay, Dry Bay, and the small bight under 
 Chinitna Point. 
 
 Oil Bay is a shoal open bay having a sand beach at its head, which 
 bares % mile from shore. The bottom is rocky and broken, and is 
 foul for about 1 mile offshore on the west side of the entrance. Aban- 
 doned oil wells are located in the valley of Bowser Creek about 2 
 miles from the head of the bay. From Oil Bay a valley leads through 
 to Chinitna Bay and there is a good trail to Iniskin Bay along the 
 north side of Mount Pomeroy. 
 
 Dry Bay is a rocky, shoal bight between Oil Bay and Chinitna 
 Point. The head is a sand beach, on the eastern end of which is a 
 cabin of an abandoned oil company. 
 
 Chinitna Bay is shoal, and an anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms in the 
 entrance is exposed to all easterly winds. The bottom is muddy and 
 good holding ground, and anchorage can be selected anywhere in the 
 bay where there is sufficient depth to lie afloat at low water. A small 
 vessel of less than about 12 feet draft can anchor with fairly good 
 shelter in a depth of about 18 feet in a narrow channel 300 yards 
 northwestward of the low point on the south side 3 miles above the 
 island in the entrance. There are strong williwaws with westerly 
 winds. The bay is reported to be full of ice during the winter. The 
 tidal currents rarely exceed 1 % knots in the bay. 
 
BAY.,,, 
 
 101 
 
 A prominent, rocky, grass-covered island, about 140 feet high, lies 
 on the south side in the entrance of Chinitna Bay. Reefs extend % 
 mile northward, northeastward, and southeastward from the island. 
 A deep channel % mile wide leads into the bay southwestward of the 
 island, but the main entrance is northward of the island and sur- 
 rounding reefs as shown on the chart. 
 
 From Chinitna Bay to the prominent waterfall 5 miles southward of 
 Chisik Island, the coast is low and wooded, with lagoons and marshes 
 in places, and there is some quicksand. Thence into Tuxedni Harbor 
 the coast is rocky bluffs and rises quickly to high land. 
 
 An extensive shoal, apparently an old glacial moraine, with rocky, 
 very irregular bottom and indications of bowlders, extends 6 miles 
 from the west shore between Chinitna Bay and Tuxedni Harbor. 
 The least depth found is about 3% fathoms, but there is probably 
 less. Deep-draft vessels should avoid areas with depths less than 10 
 fathoms. Tide rips mark the shoal at all times except at slack water, 
 and are dangerous at times for small craft in heavy weather; the 
 heaviest rips are near the extrentity of the shoal, about 6 miles from 
 shore. 
 
 Iliamna Volcano, 10,017 feet high, is an important mark. Steam 
 generally issues from fissures just below the summit and from one of 
 the lower peaks on its southeast slope. 
 
 Chisik Island is a narrow ridge, about 5 miles long and compara- 
 tively smooth on top, that slopes gradually upward from the south- 
 east end of the island to its northwest end, where it terminates 
 in a cliff, 2,678 feet high, which is a conspicuous mark. A reef 
 extends about J4 mile southeastward from the southeast end of the 
 island. 
 
 Tuxedni Harbor, on the southwest side of Chisik Island, is a large 
 and secure anchorage. Heavy williwaws occur with gales from any 
 direction, and raise a choppy sea in the harbor dangerous to open 
 boats. There is a cabin on the sand spit on Chisik Island 4 miles 
 from its southeast end. Water can be had from a fall J^ mile north- 
 westward of the cabin. The harbor is reported to be blocked with 
 ice from December to March. 
 
 To enter Tuxedni Harbor give the southeast point of Chisik Island 
 a berth of over y% mile, keep in mid-channel until about 2 miles inside 
 the entrance, and then follow Chisik Island at a distance of J mile. 
 The anchorage is about % to J/ m ile from Chisik Island for a distance 
 of 1 mile below the cabin, in 15 to 17 fathoms, sticky bottom, and has 
 a clear width of % mile. On the island side the shore is bold, but a 
 shoal makes out ^ to 1 mile from the main shore abreast the anchor- 
 age; the shoaling is abrupt on the sides of the channel and there are 
 bowlders in places on the shoals. The passage northward of Chisik 
 Island should be avoided, even by small craft. 
 
 Current. The tidal current sets fair with the channel, and turns 
 from y% to 1 hour after high water. The ebb runs about 2 hours 
 longer than the flood. The maximum flood and ebb currents 
 observed was 1.7 and 2.2 knots, respectively. 
 
 From Tuxedni Harbor to Harriet Point the shore is a gravel bluff 
 with trees on top and a few bowlders in the water. The point 8 miles 
 southward of Harriet Point is an alder-covered bluff from 200 to 300 
 feet high, with a number of bare slides. There are bowlders in places 
 
102 COOK TNXET WESTERN SHORE. 
 
 on the shoals which fringe this .shore, and vessels should proceed with 
 caution when inside the 10-fa thorn curve. 
 
 Redoubt Volcano, 10,198 feet high, is an important mark, lying 12 
 miles from the shore westward of Harriet Point. There is a notch 
 on its southeast slope just below the summit. 
 
 Double Peak, lying 15 miles northward of Redoubt Volcano, is 
 7,088 feet high, has two knobs on top, and is easily identified from the 
 inlet. 
 
 Harriet Point is a clay bluff about 100 feet high, with bowlders at 
 the water. A bowlder reef bare at low water extends % mile east- 
 ward from Harriet Point, and the point should not be approached 
 closer than 1 J/ miles on the line of the reef. 
 
 There is a fair anchorage in moderate weather on the north side of 
 Harriet Point, which so far as known is safe during the summer except 
 for southerly, southeasterly, and northeasterly gales. Very small 
 vessels can anchor in about 5 fathoms, about }/ mile from shore, with 
 the point bearing 177 true (SSE ^2 E mag.). At the anchorage the 
 ebb current has a velocity of 2 to 3 knots, while the flood current is 
 weak and of short duration. 
 
 From Harriet Point to West Foreland the shore is generally low 
 and backed by patches of woods, which appear continuous, and is 
 subject to overflow at extreme high tides. It is fronted by a flat 
 which extends off a greatest distance of 2 y 2 miles in the bight north- 
 westward of Harriet Point and at the north end of Redoubt Bay. 
 The edge of the flat is generally steep-to, but no bowlders were seen 
 on those parts lying in front of marshy shores. Drift River is 
 shallow, rapid, and obstructed by rocks and snags. 
 
 Butte is a prominent wooded hill 488 feet high, lying 4 miles inland 
 and 14 miles southwestward of West Foreland. 
 
 Kalgin Island is 11 miles long, over 200 feet high at its north and 
 south ends, and wooded. The entire island is fringed with bowlders. 
 
 A shoal extends 16 miles southward from Kalgin Island. There are 
 spots bare at low water for a distance of nearly 8 miles from the 
 island, and thence southward the least depths found are 9 and 14 feet. 
 It is apparently a part of an old glacial moraine, the bottom is very 
 broken, and there are probably less depths than found by the survey, 
 especially between the shoaler lumps. No bowlders show at low 
 water, however, on the shoal except near the island. The shoaling is 
 abrupt on the sides of the shoal from depths of 15 to nearly 40 fath- 
 oms, as shown on the chart. There is a 5-fathom spot close to the 
 10-fathom curve at the south end of the shoal which lies 110 true 
 (E y<i N mag.) from the peak of Chisik Island. 
 
 A passage with general depths of 12 to 15 feet, which is used by 
 cannery tenders, leads across the shoal from 1 to 2^ miles southward 
 of Kalgin Island, as shown on the chart. A range should be picked 
 up in the opening northward of Chisik Island to insure making the 
 course good, as the currents on either side of the island have a velocity 
 of 3 to 4 knots at times, and are nearly slack in the lee of the island. 
 There are bowlders near Kalgin Island, and they may also exist in 
 the passage. 
 
 A sand shoal or ridge about 8 miles long lies 2^ to 3 J^ miles west- 
 ward of Kalgin Island, 'it shows about 7 feet above mean lower low 
 water at the highest point near its middle. The shoaling is abrupt 
 on the sides of the shoal. 
 
COOK INLET WESTERN SHORE. 103 
 
 A bowlder-strewn shoal with depths of 7 fathoms or less extends 8 
 miles northward from the northeast point of Kalgin Island. The 
 area has been gone over at a good low water, and the outer bowlders 
 which show at low water lie 2^ miles from the island in depths of 
 nearly 30 feet. As there may be other bowlders not found, it is 
 advisable to proceed with caution where the depths are not more 
 than 30 feet greater than the draft. 
 
 Small vessels can select anchorage off the middle of the north end 
 of Kalgin Island, with good shelter from southerly gales drawing up 
 the inlet. The holding ground is good and the currents as little as 
 will be found at any of the exposed anchorages. Caution must be 
 observed, however, at low water when crossing the broken, bowlder- 
 strewn area with depths less than 7 fathoms making off from the 
 north end of the island. 
 
 The highest parts of the shoal lying between Kalgin Island and 
 West Foreland show between 3 and 4 feet at mean lower low water. 
 Although the bottom is rocky in places, there are no bowlders showing 
 in its vicinity at lowest tides. "There are bowlders in places on the 
 bottom between the shoal and West Foreland. 
 
 West Foreland is a flat wooded headland 262 feet high, with a bluff 
 at the water. The shore at West Foreland and for a distance of 4 or 
 5 miles northward is fringed with bowlders, which extend below low 
 water. The bottom is broken and there are bowlders between West 
 Foreland and the shoal southward. 
 
 Kustatan River has its entrance 3J^ miles westward of West Fore- 
 land. It connects inland with Me Arthur River, which enters the inlet 
 12 miles northward of West Foreland, and this route is used by the 
 natives in bidarkas when going to Tyonek. 
 
 For a distance of 8 miles northward from West Foreland the bluff is 
 at the water and there are numerous bowlders on the beach. The 
 bluff then trends inland to a conspicuous wooded ridge, 5 miles long 
 and 300 feet high, which is 2% miles inland at its northern end. 
 
 For a distance of 15 miles northward from the end of the bluff the 
 shore of Trading Bay is flat, grass covered, and subject to overflow, 
 and there are several sloughs. This part of the bay is .fronted by a 
 flat which extends off a greatest distance of 2 j/ miles at the mouth of 
 McArthur River. This river is about 1 mile wide at its entrance at 
 high water, but due to a bar across its mouth it can not be entered at 
 low water. 
 
 Nikolai River is a narrow slough 19 miles northward of West Fore- 
 land. There is a depth of 1 to 2 feet at low water in the channel 
 across the flat which extends upward of 2 miles from shore. A depth 
 of about 15 feet can be taken into the river at high water. The water 
 in the river is fresh nearly to its mouth except for a short time at high 
 water. 
 
 Beginning at a prominent gulch 2% miles northeastward of Nikolai 
 River the bluff comes to the shore and so continues around North 
 Foreland. The gray bluff just eastward of the gulch is a prominent 
 feature. There is a small stream in the gulch. Anchorage can be 
 had about % mile off the gulch, in 4 to 5 fathoms, hard bottom, with 
 the village of Tyonek open about 100 yards from the grayish bluff 
 point eastward of the anchorage. Rocks awash at low water extend 
 % mile from shore 1 mile eastward of the gulch. 
 
104 COOK INLET WESTERN SHORE. 
 
 Old Tyonek is a small native village 6J^ miles northeastward of 
 Nikolai River. For a distance of 1 mile westward of Old Tyonek 
 there are several large bowlders % mile from shore. Thence east- 
 ward the shore is clearer. 
 
 Tyonek is a native village on a grassy spit on the southeast side of 
 North Foreland 3 miles eastward of Old Tyonek. Anchorage can be 
 had about 300 yards off the eastern end of Tyonek, with the Greek 
 church bearing about 4 true (NNW mag.), in 4 to 5 fathoms, mud 
 and gravel. The flood current has a velocity of 4 to 5 knots, and ebb 
 2 to 3 knots. Care should be taken to avoid a shoal bare at low water 
 which lies about 250 yards westward of the anchorage and extends 
 100 yards from shore. The anchorage is good during moderate 
 weather or with offshore winds. 
 
 North Foreland is a bluff about 150 feet high at the end of a hilly, 
 wooded ridge. Thence northward the bluff is lower. 
 
 Chuit River, about 3 miles northward of North Foreland, is marked 
 by a low break in the bluff. A depth of about 8 feet can be taken 
 into the mouth of the river at high water, and the tides are felt about 
 1 mile up the river. Ladd is a small native village and a large ware- 
 house on the north side at the mouth of the river. 
 
 There is a prominent bluff 150 feet high on the south side of Three- 
 mile Creek. The bluff continues northward for 2J^ miles from this 
 creek, and then the tree line is from 2 to 3 miles inland from ordinary 
 high-water mark, the strip between being subject to overflow at 
 extreme high tides. This feature continues to within 2 miles of 
 Point Mackenzie. 
 
 Beginning at Threemile Creek the shore is fronted by a mud flat 
 which extends off an increasing distance from the shore northward. 
 Its low-water edge is about 2 miles off the mouth of Beluga River, 
 5^2 miles off the mouth of Susitna River, 3J^ miles off the shore east- 
 ward nearly to Little Susitna River, and extends to the shore about 
 1 mile westward of Point Mackenzie. 
 
 Beluga River is llJ/ miles northward of North Foreland. The 
 channel through the flats at the mouth of the river has a depth of 
 about 2 feet .or less at low water, and is said to shift in the winter and 
 spring from the action of ice. A depth of as much as 18 feet at high 
 water can be carried to Beluga, a former trading station, about 2 
 miles above its entrance, where the depth is not over 8 feet at low 
 water. The effect of the tide is felt in the Beluga River 6 or 8 miles 
 from its mouth, and it is said that boats can ascend to Beluga Lake, 
 about 20 miles inland. 
 
 Theodore River, 3J^ miles northward of Beluga River, is similar to 
 Nikolai River. About 3 or 4 miles up Theodore River it reaches to 
 within % mile from Beluga River, and there is an easy portage 
 between. 
 
 Lewis River, 3 miles northward of Theodore River, is a slough 
 draining the marshes. 
 
 Susitna River is navigable for stern- wheel steamers of 2 or 3 feet 
 draft to the Talkeetna River, a distance of about 68 nautical miles, 
 but this was done only at good stages of high water and presented 
 many difficulties; under the most favorable conditions of very high 
 water a steamer has been taken to Indian Creek, about 100 miles 
 from the mouth. Launches occasionally run up the Yentna River 
 to the forks, about 65 nautical miles above its junction with the 
 
COOK INLET WESTERN SHORE. 105 
 
 Susitna. The tides are not felt more than 7 miles up the Susitna, 
 and above this the current is swift. 
 
 The channels across the flat at the mouth of the river have depth 
 of about 2 feet or less at low water. They change during the winter 
 and spring, due to the action of ice and freshets, and the channels 
 in and above the entrance are said to change frequently in the spring 
 and early summer. 
 
 Susitna, the principal base of supplies, is on the Susitna about 18 
 nautical miles above the entrance and just below the mouth of the 
 Yentna. The principal traffic is in launches, occasionally towing 
 scows, which run from Knik Arm to Susitna. 
 
 Little Susitna River, about 9 miles westward of Point Mackenzie, 
 is reported to be navigable for launches at high water for a distance 
 of 8 miles. 
 
 Susitna Mountain, the prominent mark in the upper inlet, is 4,401 
 feet high and lies on the west side of Susitna River, 13 miles above 
 the head of Cook Inlet. A high ridge extends off from it in a westerly 
 direction. 
 
 KODIAK AND AFOGNAK ISLANDS. 
 
 This group, lying southwestward of Cook Inlet, and separated 
 from the mainland by Shelikof Strait, consists of the two large 
 islands above named, and numerous small ones along their shores. 
 The group is about 155 by 54 miles in extent, with its greatest length 
 in a southwesterly direction. 
 
 The land is rugged and mountainous, with elevations of 2,000 to 
 3,000 feet along the shores, and in excess of 4,500 feet in the interior. 
 The shores are rugged and rocky, and are indented by numerous 
 deep narrow inlets, in which are numerous rocks and reefs. 
 
 The eruption of Katmai Volcano in 1912 covered this group with 
 a thick deposit of volcanic ash. This ash is now rapidly disappear- 
 ing, but at present (1916) vessels approaching to the leeward of the 
 islands in thick weather with any breeze will be warned of their 
 proximity to the land by the presence of this volcanic dust in the air. 
 
 This region is one of the important centers of the salmon canning 
 industry. Previous to the eruption there was also considerable 
 cattle raising, and this is now being resumed on a smaller scale. 
 Some mineral prospects have been located. 
 
 EAST COAST OF SHUYAK AND AFOGNAK ISLANDS. 
 
 Shuyak Island is generally wooded and hilly, with elevations 
 probably above 1,000 feet. Some of the hills on the island, and the 
 outlying islands and rocks on its northern and western sides, are 
 located. The island is deeply indented by inlets, but no information 
 is available respecting them. 
 
 Point Banks is an island about % mile long close to the northeast 
 end of Shuyak Island. A rock about 20 feet high lies J^ mile north- 
 westward of Point Banks ; no breaker was seen outside of the rock at 
 low water with a moderate swell. 
 
 Perevalnie Island is close to the northern shore of Shuyak, its 
 western end lying 1 % miles southwestward of the rock northwestward 
 of Point Banks. Temporary anchorage for a small vessel, sheltered 
 from southeasterly winds, can be had in the western entrance of the 
 
106 SHUYAK ISLAND EAST COAST. 
 
 narrow passage between Perevalnie and Shuyak Islands, in 10 fathoms 
 muddy bottom. There is no shelter in northeasterly weather, and 
 it is a bad place to leave on account of the heavy sea and tide rips. 
 
 The northern side of Shuyak Island westward of Perevalnie Island 
 is apparently foul, rocks awash and sunken extending well off in 
 places. The western coast of Shuyak Island is described on page 125. 
 
 Sea Otter Island, lying 7^ miles southeastward from Point Banks, 
 is grass covered, % mile long, and about 100 feet high. It is sur- 
 rounded by bare rocks and breakers to a distance of \Y^ to 2 miles. 
 
 Afognak Island is in its eastern part a series of mountain ridges 
 with low depressions between them running through the island from 
 north to south. From a distance Marmot Island shows as the eastern- 
 most of these ridges. The lower parts of Afognak Island are wooded, 
 except its eastern coast, and its southwestern end southward of 
 Paramanof Bay. The northern part of the island between Black 
 Cape and Tonki Cape is not surveyed. 
 
 Tonki Cape is the northern end of the high ridge separating Tonki 
 Bay from Marmot Strait. It is about 100 feet high and grass covered, 
 and rises gradually southward to high land. A short reef with some 
 large bare rocks on it extends northward from the cape, terminating 
 in a rock, bare at low water, J4 mn<e from shore. Temporary anchor- 
 age in southeasterly weather can be had by a small vessel off the bight 
 on the west side of the end of Tonki Cane. 
 
 Tonki Bay, on the west side of Tonki Cape, has two main arms. 
 The eastern one is about 5 nrles long from Tonki Cape. The arm is 
 1% miles wide abreast the headland separating the arms, which is 
 23/2 miles inside Tonki Cape, and has a high rocky islet about % mile 
 northward from it. Three rocks, covered at high water, lie about % 
 mile from the eastern shore and 1 % miles southward of Tonki Cape. 
 The west side of the arm is steep and apparently bold; the east side 
 is lower and more broken. There is anchorage about J^ mile from 
 the head of the arm in 10 fathoms, soft bottom, but it is not secure 
 with northerly winds. 
 
 The western arm of Tonki Bay extends southward to within about 
 2 miles of Izhut Bay, with low land between. There is no bottom at 
 20 fathoms in mid-channel until J mile from the beach in the bight 
 on the eastern side % mile from the head, where there is secure anchor- 
 age in about 12 fathoms, hard bottom. 
 
 The coast for 5 miles southward of Tonki Cape is a low bluff, with 
 a marsh % to % mile wide between it and the foot of the ridge which 
 rises abruptly. Numerous islets and rocks fringe the coast, extending 
 off J4 mnl ? in places. Thence southward the bluffs increase in height 
 toward King Cove. Southward of King Cove the coast is a bluff over 
 500 feet high, which extends around Pillar Cape. 
 
 King Cove, lying 288 true (W J^ S mag.) from the south end of 
 Marmot Island, is an open bight 1J^ miles long and indents the coast 
 3/2 mile. It may be used as a temporary anchorage with offshore 
 winds, and otherwise affords no shelter. There are numerous kelp 
 patches in the cove near the shore. 
 
 Marmot Strait, between Afognak and Marmot Islands, is 2^ to 3 
 miles wide, and is frequently used by vessels. While no sounding 
 has been done, it is apparently deep and clear in the middle. The 
 shores are more or less foul and should be given a berth of over % 
 mile. The tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 1 to 3 knots, 
 
AFOGNAK ISLAND EAST COAST. 107 
 
 tin 1 flood current setting northward. Sailing directions through the 
 strait are given on page 27. 
 
 Sealion Rocks lie 5*4 miles east-northeastward from Tonki Cape and 
 4 miles northward from Marmot Island. They are two bare rocks, 
 close together, the larger one about 40 feet high, and a reef, bare at 
 low water, lying y% mile northeastward from the bare rocks. 
 
 Marmot Island is about 6^ miles long, with elevations up to about 
 1,300 feet, and wooded to a height of about 500 feet. The north end 
 is low and rises gradually to the high land. The eastern side and 
 southern end of the island are bluffs over 500 feet high in places. 
 The western shore is also steep but lower. There are three high rocks 
 close to Marmot Cape, the south end of the island, and two close to its 
 southeast side. 
 
 A rock about 6 feet high lies 600 yards from the northwest side of 
 Marmot Island, about 1^ miles from its northern end. An exten- 
 sive kelp field makes out from the island to a distance of about J^ 
 mile northward from the rock, and extends around to the north end 
 of the island. 
 
 Two sunken rocks, on which the sea generally breaks at low water, 
 lie about 1 mile apart and 2^ miles eastward of Cape St. Hermogenes, 
 the eastern end of Marmot Island. The northern rock lies 108 true 
 (E y 2 N mag.) from the north end of the island and 38 true (N by E 
 J4 E mag.) from its southeast end. The southern rock lies 120 true 
 (E Yi S mag.) from the north end of the island and 45 true (N by E 
 % E mag.) from its southeast end. The range of the two pinnacle 
 rocks close to the southeast side of Marmot Island, bearing 232 true 
 (SSW J/2 W mag.), passes southeastward of both breakers. 
 
 Pillar Cape is a bluff over 500 feet high, similar to the southeast 
 side of Marmot Island, and there is a high pinnacle rock at the foot 
 of the bluff Y^ mile eastward of the south end of the cape. On the 
 southwest side of Pillar Cape are three high bluff points with small 
 coves between. About lJ/ miles westward of the cape is an open 
 bight from which a low divide extends through to the western arm 
 of Tonki Bay. 
 
 MARMOT BAY 
 
 extends westward between Afogiiak and Kodiak Islands to Whale 
 Island. The route along the south side of the bay through Narrow 
 Strait and Whale Passage is generally used by vessels from Kodiak 
 bound to Shelikof Strait. These passages are described on pages 
 123-124. 
 
 The northern part of Marmot Bay is clear except its western end 
 between Kostromitinof Cape and Hog Island. The outlying broken 
 ground in the entrance and middle of the bay has not been closely 
 developed. Pillar Cape may be rounded at a distance of 1 mile in 
 depths of over 20 fathoms. Deep water extends as close as J4 m il e 
 to Izhut Cape. In the western end of the bay danger will be avoided 
 by keeping eastward of a line from the eastern end of Kostromitinof 
 Cape to Stripe Rock, and eastward of this range extended southward, 
 until Hog Island is open from the northwestern side of Whale Island. 
 
 Izhut Bay has its entrance between Pillar Cape and Peril Cape, and 
 extends into Afognak Island about 7 miles in a northwesterly direc- 
 tion with a width of 3 miles in its lower part. No dangers were seen 
 in the bay, but it has not been sounded and kelp extends a short dis- 
 
108 MARMOT BAY. 
 
 tance off all the points. The shores are wooded and water may be 
 obtained from numerous streams. 
 
 The southern arm on the western side of Izhut Bay has its entrance 
 3 miles inside Peril Cape, and is about 3 miles long in a 316 true 
 (WNW mag.) direction with a width of about % mile. Lying \y 2 
 miles inside the entrance of the arm there is an islet with a rock, bare 
 at low water, 50 yards off its southern side. The surveying vessel 
 used the channel southward of the island. Just above the island 
 the arm contracts to 34 m il e an d then expands into a basin about % 
 mile in diameter. There is a rock, bare at low water, close to the 
 north point at the entrance of the basin. Secure anchorage can be 
 selected in the basin. A stream enters on its southern side. 
 
 At the northern end of Izhut Bay is the entrance to two small arms, 
 about 34 mile off the western point of which is a prominent, steep 
 rocky islet about 60 feet high. The eastern arm has an islet in it, 
 the channel being eastward of it; there is secure anchorage for a 
 small vessel above the islet in 7 to 9 fathoms. The western arm is 
 straight and clear, and has secure anchorage about }/% mile from the 
 head in 9 fathoms. A mid-channel course should be followed in the 
 arms. 
 
 Peril Cape is a prominent, precipitous headland about 600 feet 
 high, and there is a high pinnacle rock close to its southern side. 
 
 Izhut Cape, lying 2^ miles southwestward of Peril Cape, is a pro- 
 jecting, long, wooded, hilly point from 250 to 500 feet high. There 
 is deep water around the cape as close as 34 mile. 
 
 Duck Bay is about 6 miles long from Izhut Cape to Kostromitinof 
 Cape. At the eastern end of the bay temporary anchorage may 
 be had in the middle of the cove IJ^j miles northwestward of Izhut 
 Cape, in 6 to 7 fathoms. The anchorage is eastward of an islet, 
 about 30 feet high, which lies 34 mile from the northern shore and 
 should not be approached closely. 
 
 A round, rocky island, 160 feet high and grass covered on cop, 
 lies 23^ miles westward from Izhut Cape and % mn<e fro m shore. 
 Kelp extends nearly 34 m il e westward and northward of the island, 
 and numerous bare rocks extend 3^2 m ile eastward of the island and 
 to the shore northeastward of it. In the cove northward of the 
 island is a small native settlement. Temporary anchorage may be 
 had in the middle of the cove, in 10 to 12 fathoms. Enter the cove 
 westward of the island, between it and a large rock, awash at high 
 water, lying 34 mn<e southward from the western point of the cove. 
 
 The next cove westward having its entrance 1 mile northwest- 
 ward of the island, is 1 mile long and % mile wide. The bottom 
 is rocky and kelp extends some distance from shore in places. Small 
 craft, entering with care, can anchor in 5 to 8 feet of water at the 
 head. 
 
 Kostromitinof Cape is a projecting, long, level, wooded point, 
 about 200 feet high, with bluffs in places at the water. Northward 
 from the cape the land rises gradually in a distance of 5J^ miles 
 to a prominent peak 2,080 feet liigh. 
 
 Spruce Island, on the south side of Marmot Bay, has generally a 
 low, wooded strip all around it, but the middle of the island is a 
 grassy ridge 1,580 feet high, with but few trees. South Point of the 
 island is marked by a high, black, rocky islet, with a lower one close 
 to its south side, lying 600 yards southward from the point. East 
 
MARMOT BAY. 109 
 
 Cape 
 
 8 fathoms 
 
 from it. North Cape is a wooded knob 550 feet high. There is 
 
 high, wooded island close to the western end of Spruce Island. 
 
 The Triplets, lying \y% miles westward of North Cape of Spruce 
 Island, are three grass-covered islands, the highest 190 feet. The 
 group forms a chain 1 mile long, and there are bare rocks between 
 them. The 14-fathom soundings lying nearly 1 mile and 2% miles 
 northward of The Triplets, and the 25-fathom sounding lying mid- 
 way between The Triplets and Kostromitinof Cape, have not been 
 developed. 
 
 Whale Island, at the western end of Marmot Bay, is about 4 miles 
 in diameter. Its southern half is a grass-covered mountain 2,030 
 feet high with a narrow, light streak or landslide down its eastern 
 slope. The northern side of the island is low, and the lower parts 
 of the island are generally wooded. Treeless Islet, rocky and grass 
 covered, lies % mile off the eastern side of the northern end of the 
 island. Whale Passage is southward of the island and Afognak 
 Strait northward. 
 
 DANGER BAY, 
 
 on the north side near the western end of Marmot Bay, has its en- 
 trance between Kostromitinof and Kazakof Capes, where it is 2% 
 miles wide, and extends 6 miles 4 true (N by W % W mag.) to its 
 head, where it is 1 mile wide. From the head of the bay two narrow 
 arms extend northward, the western one 1 mile long and the eastern 
 one 2 miles. 
 
 Parrot Islet, round, rocky, and 30 feet high, is in the entrance of 
 the bay and % mile westward of Kostromitinof Cape. Broken 
 ground, on which are several rocky islets and rocks awash, extends 
 southward from the islet to two rocks bare at low. water lying % 
 mile 171 true (SE by S mag.) from it. 
 
 A sunken ledge, with some kelp and on which the least depth 
 found is 22 feet, lies M to 1J^ miles 143 true (SE by E ^ E mag.) 
 from Parrot Islet, and its northern end lies Y^ mile southwestward 
 from Kostromitinof Cape. 
 
 Stripe Rock, lying off the entrance of the bay 2% miles 190 true 
 (S by E % E mag.) from Parrot Islet, has two pinnacles, close to- 
 gether and about 35 feet high, the higher one having a prominent 
 white streak for its entire height. There are some smaller rocks 
 near them, and two rocks, covered at high water, lie % mile north- 
 westward from the pinnacles. 
 
 A large bare ledge about 30 feet high lies 1 mile north-northwest- 
 ward from Stripe Rock. From this ledge and Stripe Rock to the 
 islands and Skipwith Reefs off the eastern entrance to Afognak Bay, 
 the area is foul, having numerous reefs and kelp patches, and should 
 be avoided by vessels. 
 
 On the eastern side of Danger Bay, 3^ miles northward of Parrot 
 Islet, there is a cove which affords anchorage for a small vessel, in 
 12 to 14 fathoms, and small craft can anchor in its southeastern end 
 in about 5 fathoms. A reef extends about 100 yards off the south 
 side just inside the entrance of the cove, and the small bight in its 
 eastern side is shoal. 
 
110 DANGER BAY. 
 
 A bare rock, a few feet high, lies y% mile from the eastern shore and 
 y% mile from the head of the bay. Vessels of any size can anchor 
 about midway between this rock and the point separating the two 
 arms at the head, in 14 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom. Small vessels 
 can anchor, in 8 to 10 fathoms, either in the broadest part of the 
 western arm J^ m^ 6 from its head, or in the entrance of the eastern 
 arm. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, DANGER BAY. 
 
 From eastward, shape the course for a position about J/ mile south- 
 eastward of Kostromitinof Cape. Then steer for Parrot Islet on a 
 305 true (W by N mag.) course until the southwestern end of the 
 cape is a little forward of the beam. Then steer 333 true (NW J^ 
 W mag.) and pass J4 mile ff the southwestern end of the cape and 
 the same distance northeastward of Parrot Islet. 
 
 Then steer 359 true (NNW M W mag.) with Parrot Islet astern, 
 which will lead to the head of the bay. Above Parrot Islet there are 
 no dangers if the shores be given a berth of % mile, except the bare 
 rock lying J-g mile from the eastern shore and y% mile from the head 
 of the bay. 
 
 From southwestward, keep Hog Island open from the northwestern 
 side of Whale Island until Stripe Rock is in range with the eastern 
 side of Kostromitinof Cape. Then steer 41 true (N by E J/2 E 
 mag.) for 2J4 miles to a position J mile eastward of Stripe Rock. 
 Then steer 6 true (N by W Y% W mag.) for IJ/g miles to a position 
 Ji mile eastward of a bare ledge about 30 feet high. Then steer 333 
 true (NW Y 2 W mag.) about 1 mile. Then steer 358 true (NNW 
 J4 W mag.) for % mile, keeping Stripe Rock open westward of the 
 bare ledge (about 30 feet high) astern until Parrot Islet is J^ mile on 
 the starboard beam. From this position a 5 true (N by W ^ W 
 mag.) course will lead to the head of the bay. 
 
 AFOGNAK BAY, 
 
 making into Afognak Island from the western end of Marmot Bay, is 
 a secure anchorage and easily entered in the daytime. It is 5 miles 
 long from Hog Island, the entrance is nearly 3 miles wide between Big 
 Rock and Afognak village, and above Dot Island the bay is J^ mile 
 wide. On the western shore 1 y% miles above Dot Island is a disused 
 cannery, and at the head of the bay is a Government fish hatchery. 
 The best anchorage is off the cannery in 8 to 10 fathoms. 
 
 The eastern side of the entrance is formed by a chain of islands and 
 bare rocks. Lamb Island, nearest to the shore, is y^ mile long and 
 wooded. Alexander Island, % mile eastward of Lamb Island, is 
 grass covered, and has a knob about 80 feet high at its north end. 
 Skipwith Reefs, a chain of bare rocks, extend 1^ miles southeastward 
 from Lamb Island to Big Rock. The southern side of the rocks 
 should be given a berth of over % mile. The principal danger in the 
 approach is a rock, awash at low water and steep-to, lying % mile 
 118 true (E % S mag.) from Big Rock; Hog Island open from the 
 northwestern side of Whale Island leads % mile southward of the 
 rock awash, and Stripe Rock in range with the eastern end of Kos- 
 tromitinof Cape leads ^ mile eastward of it. The better entrance to 
 
AFOGNAK BAY. Ill 
 
 the bay is between Big Rock and Hog Island, and has a clear width 
 of over Yi mile. 
 
 Hog Island, the prominent mark in the entrance of the bay, is % 
 mile long, and has two wooded knolls with a saddle between. Foul 
 ground marked by kelp extends about 350 yards northeastward from 
 its eastern end and 650 yards westward from its western end. 
 
 Af ognak is a village with post office which extends along the western 
 shore of the bay for a distance of nearly 2 miles northward of Head 
 Point. The church (white with green roof) is the best mark in the 
 village, and lies J4 m il e southward of Graveyard Point. 
 
 Village Reefs are partly bare at low water and covered with kelp, 
 and extend over 1 mile eastward from Af ognak toward Hog Island. 
 The point of the reefs is midway between Graveyard Point and Hog 
 Island. Southeastward from the point of the reefs is a detached shoal 
 with a least found depth of 3J^ fathoms. Between this shoal and the 
 reef extending westward from Hog Island is a channel y^ mile wide. 
 
 Danger Reef lies 1^ miles 57 .true (NE by N mag.) from Grave- 
 yard Point and \y^ miles 317 true (WNW mag.) from the west end 
 of Hog Island. It is small, bare at half tide, marked by some kelp, 
 and is a serious danger when covered. 
 
 A rock, with 14 feet over it and marked by kelp, lies ^ m ile west- 
 northwestward from Danger Reef and the same distance 52 true 
 (NNE y% E mag.) from Lipsett Point on the western shore. 
 
 Dot Island, small and wooded, is the western one of three small 
 islands close to the eastern shore where the bay narrows to y^ mile. 
 On the western shore opposite Dot Island is a cascade where fresh 
 water can be obtained by boat. 
 
 For tides, see Af ognak Strait. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, AFOGNAK BAY. 
 
 From eastward, keep Hog Island open from the northwestern side 
 of Whale Island, bearing anything westward of 250 true (SW y% W 
 mag.) until about % mile from Hog Island, to clear the dangers on 
 the northern side of the approach. Then pass midway between Hog 
 Island and Big Rock. 
 
 From Narrow Strait, follow the directions on page 123 until west- 
 ward of Three Brothers. Then steer 328 true (NW by W mag.) for 
 6 miles with Low Island astern to a position 3/2 mile northeastward 
 of Hog Island. 
 
 Pass midway between Hog Island and Big Rock and steer 315 
 true (WNW % W mag.) for the old cannery building showing mid- 
 way between Dot Island and the eastern shore. Keep this range 
 for about 2 miles until the western end of Lamb Island is abeam. 
 Then steer 308 true (WNW % W mag.) for 1% miles and pass 400 
 to 500 yards southward of Dot Island. 
 
 Keep this course for about J4 mile past Dot Island until 34 mile off 
 the cascade on the western shore. Then steer 353 true (NNW % 
 W mag.), favoring slightly the western shore, for.% mile. Anchor 
 near mid-channel off the old cannery in 8 to 10 fathoms. The 
 anchorage is clear if Winter Island be given a berth of 300 yards and 
 Last Point (on the north shore) 400 yards. 
 
 From Afognak Strait, steer for the south end of Hog Island with 
 Deranof Rock astern, course 73 true (NE % E mag.) until % mile 
 
112 AFOGNAK BAY. 
 
 past Dolphin Point (northeast end of Whale Island) . Then steer for 
 the western end of Lamb Island with the eastern end of Whale Island 
 astern, course 8 true (N by W. % W mag.) and pass % mile westward 
 of Hog Island. When ^ mile past Hog Island and Big Rock is a 
 little forward of the beam, steer 325 true (NW by W J W mag.), 
 heading for Dot Island with the western end of Hog Island astern, 
 which leads nearly J4 m ile northeastward of Danger Reef. Keep 
 this course for 2 miles until about % mile from Dot Island, and then 
 steer 308 true (WNW % W mag.) and pass 400 to 500 yards south- 
 ward of it. Then follow the directions in the preceding paragraph. 
 
 AFOGNAK STRAIT, 
 
 between Whale and Afognak Islands, is not generally used, but is 
 convenient for small vessels when bound to or from Afognak Bay 
 and the currents are only half as strong as in Whale Passage. With 
 care the navigation is not difficult on a clear day when the marks for 
 the strait can be seen. It has a least width of % mile, but large areas, 
 especially on the north side, are foul and there are many dangers. 
 The channel at Chiachi Point, where it is narrowest and shoalest, has 
 a width of l / mile and a general depth of 24 feet, but there is a rock 
 with 16 feet over it in mid-channel. The dangers are marked by 
 kelp, which grows in depths up to about 6 fathoms and shows at 
 slack water. 
 
 Dolphin Point is the northeast end of Whale Island. A reef partly 
 bare at low water extends 600 yards from Whale Island at a point J^ 
 mile westward of Dolphin Point. 
 
 Fox Bay, the bight in Whale Island 1 mile westward of Dolphin 
 Point, has a reef in its entrance which shows well at low water. A 
 small vessel can anchor in the bay inside the reef in 4 to 5 fathoms, 
 but the south shore must be given a berth of 300 yards. Thence 
 westward the shore of Whale Island is clear to Chiachi Point, the 
 northwest end of the island, from which a shelving reef makes out 
 about 350 yards in a northwest direction. 
 
 In the narrowest part of Afognak Strait, for a distance of % mile 
 westward of Afognak village, foul ground extends % mu>e from the 
 north shore. Thence westward the northern half of the strait is 
 foul. The principal danger is a reef awash at low water lying a little 
 over mile northwestward of Chiachi Point and 1 miles 69 true 
 
 (NE mag.) from the south end of Deranof Island. 
 
 A rock with 16 feet over it lies J4 m ^ e eastward of the preceding 
 reef, % mile 24 true (N mag.) from Chiachi Point, and on or a very 
 little northward of the range of Deranof Rock and Kupreanof Moun- 
 tain. The channel is southward of the rock and is about 300 yards 
 wide. 
 
 Deranof Island, % mile long, low and wooded, is the southernmost 
 and largest of the islands at the western end of Afognak Strait. 
 
 Deranof Rock, about 8 feet high, lies nearly 200 yards southward 
 of the island. Broken ground with a least depth of 16 feet lies % 
 mile eastward of the island and 74 true (NE ^ E mag.) from 
 Deranof Rock. 
 
 Temporary anchorage may be had in the channel of Afognak Strait 
 between Fox Bay and Afognak village, in 7 to 8 fathoms, but exposed 
 to the full strength of the currents and to easterly and northeasterly 
 winds. A small vessel can anchor in Fox Bay. 
 
AFOGNAK STRAIT. 113 
 
 Small vessels can anchor near the kelp on Village Reefs, with the 
 church (white with green roof) in Afognak bearing 344 true (NW 
 y% N mag.), and Head Point (south of the village) inline with Deranof 
 Rock, in 5 fathoms. Little current will be felt here, but it is exposed 
 to easterly winds. 
 
 With easterly winds small vessels can anchor about J mile west- 
 ward of the point on the north side of Afognak Strait % mile west- 
 ward of Head Point, in about 4 fathoms, but care is required. When 
 rounding into the anchorage, pass northeastward of a reef, bare at 
 low water, lying % mile southwest ward of the point, and give the 
 point a berth of over 300 yards. 
 
 Tides. High and low water occur about 10 minutes later than 
 at Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides is 8.1 feet. To 
 find the approximate height of the tide, multiply the height of the 
 corresponding tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges 1.17. 
 
 The tidal currents in Afognak Strait set westward on the flood 
 and eastward on the ebb. The estimated velocity is 2 to 5 knots 
 at strength, depending on the range of the tide. Slack water occurs 
 about 1 hour before high and low waters at Kodiak. During the 
 flood there is a strong set into Raspberry Strait, which should be 
 kept in mind when in the western end of Afognak Strait. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, AFOGNAK STRAIT. 
 
 From Narrow Strait follow the directions on page 123 to a position 
 J4 mile northward of Shakmanof Point. Then steer 313 true 
 (WNW % W mag.) for 5^ miles and pass J/ m ile northeastward 
 of Dolphin Point. 
 
 From eastward in Marmot Bay, keep Hog Island open from the 
 northwest side of Whale Island, bearing anything westward of 250 
 true (SW % W mag.), and pass ^ m ile or more southward of Hog 
 Island and % mile northward of Dolphin Point. 
 
 From Afognak Bay, steer 145 true (SE by E J E mag.) for the 
 western end of Hog Island with Dot Island astern, which leads 
 nearly % mn * e northeastward of Danger Reef. When Alexander 
 Islan'd is abeam, steer 188 true (S by E % E mag.) for the eastern 
 end of Whale Island with the western end of Lamb Island astern, 
 and pass % m il e westward of Hog Island. 
 
 Passing J mile northward of Dolphin Point, steer for Deranof 
 Rock in range with the summit of Kupreanof Mountain, or, if the 
 mountain is hid, steer for Deranof Rock with the southern end of 
 Hog Island astern, course 253 true (SW % W mag.). In the nar- 
 rowest part of the strait for % m ^ e westward of Afognak village, 
 go nothing northward of the range. When approaching the western 
 end of the strait, keep a little southward of the range to avoid the 
 rock with 16 feet over it, but give the shore of Whale Island a berth 
 of over 300 yards; on the flood guard against a northerly set toward 
 Raspberry Strait. 
 
 When the eastern one of the two highest peaks on the southern 
 side of Whale Passage opens westward of Whale Island, bearing 184 
 true (S by E % E mag.), steer 238 true (SW by S mag.) and pass 
 % mile southeastward of Deranof Rock. Continue the course % 
 mile past the rock, and then steer 286 true (W % S mag.) with the 
 summit of Whale Island astern. This course made good will lead 
 31056 16 8 
 
114 AFOGNAK STRAIT. 
 
 through Kupreanof Strait, passing % to % mile southward of Gori 
 Point, J^ mile northward of Outlet Cape, and J/ mile southward 
 of Malina Point. 
 
 CHINIAK BAY AND ST. PAUL HARBOR. 
 
 Chiniak Bay is the indentation in the northeast end of Kodiak 
 Island between Cape Chiniak and Spruce Cape, and St. Paul Harbor 
 is inside the islands on its northwest side. The harbor is not difficult 
 of access in the daytime and clear weather, but the entire bay and 
 its approaches are dangerous at other times, and the narrow channel 
 leading to the wharf at Kodiak requires careful piloting. Kodiak 
 Island is mountainous, while the shores and islands of the bay are 
 comparatively low. The prominent features in the bay and ap- 
 proaches are: 
 
 Cape Chiniak, the southeast point of the bay, is low and wooded 
 for % mile back and then rises gradually to high land. A flat, 
 wooded islet and numerous high, bare rocks extend 1 3^ miles north- 
 eastward from the cape. 
 
 Long Island, the easternmost island in the northern end of the bay, 
 is 3^ miles long, about 250 feet high, hilly, with cliffs at the water, 
 and wooded except toward its northern end. The northeast end is 
 two grassy knolls joined by spits, and a high, steep, rocky islet lies 
 250 yards eastward of it. Extensive, kelp-marked reefs, with some 
 high, bare heads, extend from % to % mile north-northeastward from 
 the northern side of the island, and broken ground with a possibility 
 of danger extends in the same direction beyond the reefs to a distance 
 of about 2 miles from the island. The southeastern side of Long 
 Island is fringed with rocks and kelp to a distance of % to y% mile 
 from shore. There is a high pinnacle close to its south end, and a 
 high grass-covered rock lies % mile eastward of the pinnacle and 300 
 yards from shore. 
 
 Woody Island, westward of Long Island, is 2^ miles long, 166 feet 
 high, and heavily wooded. There is a native village, church, and 
 boat landing on its western end. The naval radio station is located 
 here. 
 
 Westward of Woody Island is a group of islands, of which Holiday 
 Island, the northernmost, is 165 feet high and wooded. Bird Islet, 
 close eastward of Holiday Island, is about 30 feet high and there is a 
 bare rock close to its southern end. Near Island, the largest of the 
 group, is 198 feet high and grass-covered. 
 
 Spruce Cape, the northwest point of the bay, is a low bluff, grass- 
 covered on top and backed by woods. Bare rocks and foul ground 
 extend J^ m il e northward from the cape to Hanin Rocks, which are 
 two masses about 30 feet high with an extensive surrounding ledge. 
 A rock, bare at k v water, lies 250 yards northward of Hanin Rocks, 
 and Hutchinson i.eef lies J^ mile eastward from them. 
 
 Miller Point, 1 mile westward of Spruce Cape, is partly wooded and 
 terminates in a rocky bluff. High, bare rocks extend 300 yards off 
 the cape, and three rocks, covered at high water, lie % to }/% mile 
 northward of it. 
 
 Devils Prongs are three prominent peaks southwestward of Syca- 
 more Bay. Approaching from southeastward they appear of nearly 
 
ST. PAUL HARBOR. 115 
 
 equal height, the middle one flat on top. The northern prong is 2,075 
 feet high. 
 
 Pillar Mountain, a short ridge 1,206 feet high, rises steeply from 
 the western shore about 1 mile southwestward of Kodiak. 
 
 Barometer Mountain is a peak 2,475 feet high lying 2 miles from the 
 western shore of Chiniak Bay and 5 miles southwestward from Kodiak. 
 It is a useful guide in clear weather for the northern approach, from 
 which direction a notch shows on the western side of its summit. 
 
 Kodiak is a village and post office on the western shore of the bay 
 inside Near Island. There is a good general store, fresh water is piped 
 to the wharf, and coal in limited quantities can be obtained. There 
 is communication by the mail steamers with Seward, Valdez, and 
 points southwestward to Unalaska. 
 
 SOUTHERN ENTRANCE. 
 
 The entrance to the bay and harbor from southeastward is south- 
 ward of Long and Woody Islands, and between the latter and Holiday 
 Island. The principal dangers near the sailing line are: 
 
 Humpback Rock, lying 3 miles 143 true (SE by E % E mag.) 
 from the south end of Long Island, is a pinnacle with two bare rocks 
 about 5 feet high. There are numerous reefs between Humpback 
 Rock and the southern shore. 
 
 Woody Island. Foul ground extends J^ mile southward from 
 Woody Island to Inner Humpback Rock, which is a pinnacle about 
 10 feet high. There is a kelp patch about 300 yards southwestward 
 of the rock. A rocky patch with 6 fathoms over it lies J^ mile west- 
 ward (true) from the southern end of Woody Island. 
 
 A sunken rock marked by kelp lies ^ mile eastward (true) from the 
 southern end of Holiday Island and % mile southward (true) of 
 Bird Islet. A rock, bare at low water and marked by kelp, lies 200 
 yards from Bird Islet in the direction of the northern end of Woody 
 Island. Foul ground and kelp extend 600 yards northeastward from 
 the northern end of Holiday Island. 
 
 NORTHERN ENTRANCE. 
 
 The northern entrance to the harbor is not difficult in clear weather, 
 but is dangerous at night or in thick weather. The soundings are 
 irregular in the approach, and the lead can not be depended on as a 
 guide to the entrance or to avoid danger. The principal dangers in 
 the northern approach and entrance are: 
 
 Williams Reef is two rocks, 100 yards apart and bare at lowest 
 tides, with deep water close-to. There are generally breaks on them, 
 except near high water with a smooth sea. The reef lies 3J4 miles 
 26 true (N J^ E mag.) from the northeast, end of Long Island, and 
 126 true (E by S mag.) from the summit of Spruce Island. The 
 range of the elms at the southwest end of Long Island open from the 
 high, grassy head at its northern end, bearing 221 true (S by W J^ 
 W mag.), leads about Y$ mile westward of the reef. Barometer 
 Mountain in range with Kodiak village or the northwest side of Near 
 Island, bearing 247 true (SW M S mag.), also leads about % mile 
 northwestward of it. 
 
116 ST. PAUL HARBOR. 
 
 A small patch with 5 fathoms over it lies \% miles 288 true (W % 
 S mag.) from Williams Reef. The ranges given in the sailing direc- 
 tions for the northern entrance clear this patch. 
 
 Hutchinson Reef, partly bare at low water, is J4 m il e long? arid its 
 northern end lies % mile 122 true (E % S mag.) from Hamn Rocks. 
 There is a large kelp patch between the reef and rocks. A bell buoy 
 is moored ^ mile northeastward of Hutchinson Reef to mark the 
 end of the broken ground surrounding Spruce Cape. 
 
 On the western side of the channel, % and % mile southward of 
 Spruce Cape, are two bare reefs which extend 600 yards from shore. 
 Channel Rock, the southern one, is a black rock about 10 feet high 
 with extensive surrounding ledges. Kelp surrounds the reefs and 
 extends M m il e southward of Channel Rock, and there is deep water 
 close to the kelp. 
 
 A rock with 2 fathoms over it lies near the middle of the northern 
 entrance, % m il e 148 true (SE by E mag.) from Spruce Cape. The 
 ranges given in the sailing directions for the northern entrance clear 
 the rock. The rock is marked by a horizontally striped buoy. The 
 clearer channel is westward of the rock. 
 
 Rocks, bare at low water, and kelp extend 1% miles northward 
 from the eastern end of Woody Island, also nearly % mile northward 
 and 300 yards westward from the northern end of the island. 
 
 CHANNEL WESTWARD OF NEAR ISLAND. 
 
 The channel on the northwest side of Near Island has a depth of 
 about 26 feet and a width of only 50 to 60 yards in places. The 
 dangers are marked by kelp, but it also sometimes grows in the chan- 
 nel. The entrance is between Cyane Rock and foul ground which 
 extends nearly 200 yards from the bight in the western shore. Cyane 
 Rock is 300 yards northward of Near Island and is bare at lowest 
 tides; it is marked on its northerly side by a black buoy. The 
 northern side of Near Island is foul, but its northwest side bordering 
 the channel is bold. The western side of the passage is foul nearly 
 to mid-channel until through the narrowest part. The passage is 
 then clear to the wharf if the shores b given a berth of 50 yards. 
 
 The wharf is 150 feet long on its face and has 17 to 27 feet alongside. 
 Vessels generally go to the end of the wharf port side to, heading 
 northward, and it is preferable to approach it near high water slack. 
 About 100 feet southward of the wharf is a shoal, on which is a rock 
 crib and post that should be given a berth of 50 yards. 
 
 From the point southwestward of the wharf an extensive shoal 
 extends J4 m il e southwestward. It is bare at low water 300 yards 
 from shore, and there is 18 feet near its southern end abreast the 
 narrow opening between Near Island and Uski Island, where it is 
 marked by a red buoy. The range of the outer rock crib southward 
 of the wharf and the western shore of the narrows M m ile 56 true 
 (NNE J^ E mag.) from the crib leads close eastward of the southern 
 half of the shoal. 
 
 A shoal extends 200 yards westward from Round Island, on the 
 eastern side, 600 yards southward from the preceding shoal. 
 
 Anchorages. The outer anchorage or roadstead is off Shahafka 
 Cove, % mile northward of Near Island, in 13 to 14 fathoms, soft 
 bottom. A good berth is with the high bluff south point of the cove 
 
ST. PAUL HARBOR. 117 
 
 bearing 294 true (W mag.), distant 300 to 500 yards, and Barometer 
 Mountain in range between. Near Island ana the water front of 
 Kodiak. This is a good anchorage, but not convenient, owing to its 
 distance from the landing, and it is exposed to considerable sea and 
 swell in heavy northeasterly weather. A rocky patch with 5 fathoms 
 over it lying % mile 107 true (E ^ N mag.) from the south point of 
 the cove should be avoided when anchoring. The cove is shoal, and 
 there are some shacks on it. 
 
 The inner anchorage is about J^ mile southwestward of the wharf 
 and 250 to 300 yards from the western shore under Pillar Mountain, 
 in 7 to 8 fathoms. This is a secure anchorage for well-found vessels, 
 though there are heavy williwaws with northwest winds. 
 
 For tides see the Pacific coast tide tables, in which the tides are 
 predicted for every day of the current year. 
 
 Currents. In Chiniak Bay, including the passage westward of Near 
 Island, the flood current sets northward and the ebb southward with 
 considerable velocity in places among the islands. In the northern 
 entrance the tidal currents have an estimated velocity of 2 to 3 knots 
 at the strength of the large tides. They turn sharply around Spruce 
 Cape across the reefs northward of it, and must be kept in mind. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, ST. PAUL HARBOR. 
 
 St. Paul Harbor and approaches are characterized by broken ground 
 which generally has not been closely developed, and pinnacle rocks 
 are a common feature. As a measure of safety, vessels should proceed 
 with caution in the vicinity of shoal areas where abrupt changes in 
 depth are indicated by the chart to depths less than about 10 or 12 
 fathoms. 
 
 Southern entrance. Approaching from southward or eastward, 
 TJgak Island will be made unless the weather is thick. This island 
 can hardly be mistaken, as it is well detached from the land and 
 possibly 1 ,200 feet high. 
 
 Cape Chiniak will be recognized by the islets and rocks extending 
 northeastward from it, and may be rounded at a distance of 2 miles. 
 Passing 2 miles or more off Cape Chiniak, steer for the south end of 
 Long Island. The range of the south end of Long Island and the 
 north peak of the Devils Prongs, bearing 313 true (WNW % W 
 mag.), leads over 1 mile outside the rocks off Cape Chiniak and y% 
 mile northward of Humpback Rock, and the distance from the cape 
 to the rock is 5^ miles. 
 
 Pass y% m ile northward of Humpback Rock, steer 294 true (W 
 mag.), and pass 1 mile southward of Long Island and % to % mile 
 southward of Inner Humpback Rock. On this course guard against 
 the flood current, which sets strongly northward at times. Continue 
 the course for 5 miles until 1 mile past Inner Humpback and the pas- 
 sage between Long and Woody Islands is closed. 
 
 Then steer 18 true (N Y^ W mag.) for 2 miles and pass the western 
 end of Woody Island at a distance of 200 to 250 yards. When Near 
 Island opens northward of Holiday Island, steer 345 true (NW % 
 N mag.) for the anchorage off Shahafka Cove. 
 
 To go to the wharf at Kodiak, round the northern end of Holiday 
 Island, giving it a berth of over y% mile, and enter as directed in a 
 following paragraph. 
 
118 ST. PAUL HARBOR. 
 
 Northern entrance. From seaward, keep the summit of Spruce 
 Island bearing anything southward of 294 true (W mag.) until the 
 cliffs at the southwest end of Long Island are open westward of the 
 high, grassy head at its northern end. Then steer for Barometer 
 Mountain, course about 243 true (SW ^ S mag.), until on one of the 
 ranges for the entrance. 
 
 From northward. Directions from Marmot Strait to the entrance 
 are given on page 27. 
 
 Or, for vessels approaching eastward of Marmot Island, from a posi- 
 tion 3 miles off the southeast point of the island, steer 221 true 
 (S by W Y2 W mag.) for 26 miles, which should lead 2 J4 miles west- 
 ward of Williams Reef. Woody Island should be made ahead, its 
 western end a little on the starboard bow, and the course and distance 
 made good should lead to a position about y% mile eastward of 
 Hutchinson Reef bell buoy. Then enter on one of the ranges for the 
 entrance. 
 
 Or, passing 1 J^ to 2 miles eastward of East Cape of Spruce Island, 
 steer for the middle of Long Island, course about 180 true (SSE y% 
 E mag.), which will lead about J^ mile eastward of Hutchinson Reef 
 bell buoy. 
 
 From Narrow Strait. Pass M m il e northward of Hanin Rocks and 
 steer 144 true (SE by E % E mag.) for 1^ miles, heading for the 
 northeastern end of Long Island, until the northwestern side of Near 
 Island opens from the shore northeastward, and then enter on this 
 range. 
 
 Entering on the ranges. Either of the following ranges may be 
 used: 
 
 Bring the water front of Kodiak just open from the western shore, 
 bearing 243 true (SW y^ S mag.), and stand in on this range until 
 the northern end of Woody Island is abeam. Then steer 229 true 
 (SSW 34 W mag.) for ^ mile, following the western shore at a dis- 
 tance of 34 mile. 
 
 Or, bring the northwestern side of Near Island barely open from 
 the shore northeastward, bearing 239 true (SW Y% S mag.), and 
 stand in on this range until Spruce Cape is abeam. Then steer 229 
 true (SSW 34 W mag.), pass 400 yards eastward of Channel Rock, 
 and then follow the western shore at a distance of 34 m il e until J^ 
 mile past the northern end of Woody Island. 
 
 Having followed the directions in either of the two paragraphs 
 preceding, when Barometer Mountain is in line with the passage 
 between Near Island and the water front of Kodiak, steer this range, 
 course 247 true (SW 34 S mag.), and anchor off Shahafka Cove 
 (see " Anchorages" preceding). 
 
 To go to the wharf. Steer the range of the preceding paragraph 
 until up with the end of the small bluff 34 mile northward of Near 
 Island. Then bring the southernmost building (extreme left-hand 
 one) near the wharf at Kodiak open 100 feet from Near Island 
 (nearer that side than the western shore), and keep this range which 
 leads in mid-channel westward of Cyane Rock where the channel 
 is 75 yards wide. Keep the northwest side of Near Island aboard 
 distant about 100 feet until through the narrowest part of the chan- 
 nel, and then steer for the wharf. 
 
 To go to the inner anchorage, when through the narrowest part 
 of the channel steer 238 true (SW by S mag.), heading a little west- 
 
ST. PAUL HARBOR. 119 
 
 ward of the islands southward, until abreast the first narrow open- 
 ing between Near Island and the next islet (Uski) southward. Then 
 haul westward to the anchorage under Pillar Mountain (see " An- 
 chorages ; ' preceding) . 
 
 NARROW STRAIT TO WHALE PASSAGE. 
 
 Narrow Strait, between Spruce and Kodiak islands, is used by 
 vessels from Kodiak bound to Shelikof Strait. It has a clear width 
 of 1 mile at its eastern end, while at its western end the channel is 
 150 to 300 yards wide with a least depth of about 7 fathoms. With 
 easterly gales a heavy swell sets into the strait, but this generally 
 loses much of its force toward the western end. 
 
 There are two islands on the north side of the strait. The eastern 
 one is very uneven and grassy on top; foul ground extends 300 
 yards southward from it. Nelson Island, the western one, is higher 
 and wooded. A rock, bare at low water, lies 350 yards southward 
 of Nelson Island, and three similar rocks lie % to % mile westward 
 of the island and about % m ^ e from the northern shore. 
 
 Course Point, on the southern shore 1 JxJ rniles westward of Nelson 
 Island, is prominent and is marked by a small, rocky, grass-covered 
 islet 150 yards from shore. 
 
 Prokoda Island, in the middle near the western end of the strait, 
 is 114 feet high and partly wooded. An islet lies 100 yards off its 
 northeast end, and kelp extends 100 yards off the islet and the south- 
 eastern side of the island. 
 
 A rock, showing about 6 feet at low water, lies 250 yards south- 
 westward from the western end of Prokoda Island. It is 40 yards 
 southward of a line from the southern end of Prokoda Island to 
 Uzinki Point. The channel southward of the rock has a depth of 
 7 fathoms and is 125 yards wide between it and a shelving spit with 
 kelp which extends 125 yards from Otmeloi Point, on the southern 
 shore. 
 
 The channel northward and westward of Prokoda Island is 300 
 yards wide and clear, but the turns are sharp and are sometimes 
 difficult to make when the current is running. 
 
 Uzinki is a small native village at the head of the cove in Spruce 
 Island northward of Prokoda Island. 
 
 The best anchorage in Narrow Strait is in the middle of the cove 
 between Prokoda Island and Uzinki village, in 18 to 20 fathoms, 
 somewhat exposed to an easterly swell. A small vessel and small 
 craft can anchor at the head of the cove near Uzinki, slightly favoring 
 the western side, in 5 to 10 fathoms. 
 
 Uzinki Point, the southwest end of Spruce Island, is wooded, 
 and has several knolls about 100 feet high. There is kelp close to 
 the point, and it should be given a berth of about 100 yards. 
 
 Entrance Point, on the south side at the western entrance of Nar- 
 row Strait, is grassy with some scattered trees, and a rock 10 feet 
 high lies 100 yards off its eastern side. A kelp-marked shoal with 
 7 to 12 feet over it extends 250 yards northward from the point. 
 
 A good anchorage for a small vessel, exposed to northwest winds 
 only, may be had in the cove between Otmeloi and Entrance Points 
 in about 13 fathoms. The shore of the cove must be given a berth 
 of over 100 yards, and a flat extends 300 yards from its head. 
 
120 NARROW STRAIT TO WHALE PASSAGE. 
 
 Low Island lies in the bight on the southern shore % mile westward 
 of Entrance Point. It is grass covered and about 40 feet high at 
 its southern end. Near its northern end is a clump of trees. A 
 shoal, with 20 feet at its end and some kelp, extends 350 yards north- 
 ward of the island, and a bank with 7 to 8 fathoms extends northward 
 to a spot with 17 feet over it lying 900 yards from the island. 
 
 Three Brothers is a kelp-marked reef 400 yards long and steep-to 
 except on its eastern side. At its southwestern end are two rocks 
 bare at half tide, and at its northeastern end is a rock covered at one- 
 third flood. The southwestern end of the reef lies J^ mile 356 true 
 (NNW J/2 W mag.) from the northern end of Low Island, and is on 
 the range of Uzinki Point and the tangent to the southern shore of 
 Narrow Strait, bearing 120 true (E ]/ 2 S mag.). By keeping the 
 strait well open vessels will pass clear southward of the reef. 
 
 Shakmanof Point is the prominent, heavily wooded point 1^ miles 
 westward of Low Island. Some rocks show at low water close to the 
 point, and it should be given a berth of over 250 yards. 
 
 Kizhuyak Point, % mile southwestward of Shakmanof Point, is 
 higher than the latter, partly wooded, and terminates in white cliffs 
 in places. A rock bare at half tide lies 400 yards northward from 
 the point. 
 
 Between Kizhuyak Point and Kekur Point, a distance of 6 miles, 
 there are two bays which have not been sounded. 
 
 Kizhuyak Bay is the head of Marmot Bay southward of Whale 
 Island. Kekur and Peregrebni Points, lying 3J/ miles southward of 
 Whale Island, are at the entrance to the upper part of the bay, which 
 trends 221 true (S by W y 2 W mag.) for 2J^ miles and then 181 
 true (SSE mag.) for 6 miles, with an average width of 1^ miles. In 
 this part of the bay the depths are irregular, but the mid-channel is 
 clear. The western shore from 1)^ to 4^ miles southward of Pere- 
 grebni Point is foul; a rock bare at low water lies 2)4 miles south- 
 ward of the point and % mile from the western shore. Anchorage 
 sheltered from northeasterly winds can be selected about 300 yards 
 from the eastern shore and 3^ to 4^ miles southward from Kekur 
 Point in 16 to 18 fathoms. A flat extends nearly ^ mile from the 
 mouth of the stream on the eastern shore 5% miles southward of 
 Kekur Point and 1 mile northward from an islet. This islet lies % 
 mile from the eastern shore and 2J/ miles from the head of the bay; 
 rocks bare at low water lie 300 yards westward of the islet. A flat 
 extends y% to J^ mile from the head of the bay where there is a large 
 valley. 
 
 The tidal currents are weak except in the western entrance of Nar- 
 row Strait, where the estimated greatest velocity is about 2 knots. 
 
 For sailing directions see 'page 123. 
 
 WHALE PASSAGE, 
 
 between Whale and Kodiak Islands, is a part of the route used by 
 vessels from Kodiak bound to Shelikof Strait. It is % to % m il e 
 wide and generally clear, and the navigation is not difficult in the 
 daytime when the current is not too strong. The depths are 9 to 30 
 fathoms, and the bottom is very uneven, especially in the eastern 
 entrance. 
 
WHALE PASSAGE. , 121 
 
 Ilkognak Rock, awash at high water, lies in the middle of the eastern 
 entrance. A sunken reef extends 250 yards southwestward, and a 
 ledge with a least found depth of 6 fathoms extends % m il e eastward 
 from the rock. A detached rock with 4 fathoms over it lies 500 yards 
 44 true (N by E % E mag.) from Ilkognak Rock, and 550 yards 
 151 true (SE % E mag.) from a rock awash at high water near 
 Whale Island. With a strong ebb current, heavy swirls and overfalls 
 occur in the wake of this broken ground, and dangerous tide rips 
 prevail at such times with northeasterly gales. 
 
 Shag Rocks, bare at half tide, lie a little over y% mile southward of 
 Ilkognak Rock. 
 
 A rock, with a least found depth of 16 feet, lies in the vicinity of 
 the broken ground, with a charted depth of 8 fathoms, lying a little 
 northward of the middle of Whale Passage and % mile westward of 
 Ilkognak Rock. Gori Point, open a little southward of the south end 
 of Koniuji Islet, leads in about the deepest water found by the survey, 
 and southward of the rock. 
 
 Koniuji Islet, grass-covered find about 40 feet high, lies % mile 
 from the south side of Whale Passage and 2 miles westward of Ilkog- 
 nak Rock. Kelp extends % mile and broken ground % mile west- 
 ward from the islet. The channel is northward of Koniuji Islet, and 
 it should be given a good berth, as the current sets toward it at times. 
 
 Temporary anchorage can be had in the bight on the north side of 
 Whale Passage if stopped by too strong a flood current in the passage 
 eastward. There is an eddy current in the bight, and care should be 
 taken to get in far enough to ride to the eddy alone. A good berth 
 is in about 8 fathoms, 300 yards from Whale Island, with Koniuji 
 Islet bearing about 238 true (SW by S mag.). 
 
 A better anchorage can be had % to % mile off the western side of 
 Whale Island, in 8 to 10 fathoms. This is convenient to either Whale 
 Passage or Afognak Strait and is well out of the current, but it is 
 exposed to westerly winds. 
 
 The tidal currents in Whale Passage set westward on the flood and 
 eastward on the ebb. The estimated velocity is 4 to 10 knots at 
 strength, depending on the range of the tide. Slack water occurs 
 about 1 % hours before high and low waters at Kodiak. With a strong 
 current swirls occur in the passage in the wake of all broken ground, 
 and rips occur at the entrances when the current sets out against a 
 strong wind. The worst place is at the eastern entrance, where these 
 conditions are dangerous at times. 
 
 For sailing directions see page 124. 
 
 KUPREANOF STRAIT 
 
 extends from Whale Island to Shelikof Strait, between Raspberry and 
 Kodiak Islands. Its width is 1 % to 3 miles and the strait is generally 
 clear, but there are shoals to be avoided off the southeast end of 
 Raspberry Island, on the south side from Islet Point to the western 
 end of Dry Spruce Island, and 4J4 miles westward of Dry Spruce 
 Island and 1 % miles from the south shore. 
 
 The islands on both sides are grass-covered and mountainous, the 
 north shore especially rising abruptly. The timber extends westward 
 along the shores to Last Timber Point and Dry Spruce Island, where 
 
122 KUPREANOF STRAIT. 
 
 it terminates except for scattered clumps. Anchorage may be had 
 in places near the shore, but the only secure harbor is Dry Spruce Bay. 
 
 Between Deranof Island and the southeast end of Raspberry Island 
 there are two wooded islands, the south end of the western one being 
 MTachalni Point. Thomas Rock, awash at low water, lies y% mile 226 
 true (SSW mag.) from Nachalni Point, and a patch with 6 fathoms 
 over it lies % mile in the same direction from the point. 
 
 Chernof Point is a prominent, low, wooded point on the south shore, 
 2J^ miles westward of Whale Island. 
 
 Islet Point, 2 miles westward of Chernof Point, is low and wooded, 
 and has a high, grassy islet close- to. Broken ground with a depth of 
 4J^ fathoms lies % mile 47 true (NNE mag.) from the islet. 
 
 Dry Spruce Island lies % m il e westward of Islet Point, with a 
 wooded island between, the two islands and the shore eastward being 
 joined by shoals dry at low water. It is 1 % miles long, 225 feet high, 
 and wooded. Foul ground extends y% mile northeastward from its 
 eastern point, and broken ground with a depth of 5 fathoms lies over 
 y% mile northward from the same point. Two grassy islets and a 
 pinnacle rock lie off the north side of the western point of Dry Spruce 
 Island, and a ledge bare at half tide lies 650 yards 334 true (NW ^ 
 W mag.) from the same point. Broken ground with a least found 
 depth of 5 fathoms lies % mile northward from the western end of 
 the island. 
 
 Bare Island, southward of the western end of Dry Spruce Island, is 
 y% mile long and partly wooded on its eastern half. There is a fox 
 ranch on its northeastern side. A small grassy island lies % mile 
 westward of Bare Island. 
 
 Dry Spruce Bay, the only secure harbor in Kupreanof Strait, is on 
 the south side inside Bare and Dry Spruce Islands, and extends 2 
 miles eastward from the latter. The entrance between Dry Spruce 
 and Bare Islands is over J mile wide, and is clear with the exception 
 of a rock bare at low water lying nearly 200 yards from the south side 
 of Dry Spruce Island just inside its western end; a shoal extends 150 
 yards off the northern side of the eastern end of Bare Island. The 
 entrance south of Bare Island and the small island westward of it is 
 over ]/2 m il e wide and clear. The bay is clear with the exception of 
 a rock, bare at low water, in the middle, % mile from its eastern end. 
 
 The best anchorage for large vessels is about y% mile eastward of 
 Bare Island and y% mile off the cove in Dry Spruce Island, in 16 to 19 
 fathoms. A small vessel can anchor in the middle of the entrance to 
 this cove in about 6 fathoms, taking care to keep clear of the flat, 
 which extends 250 yards from its northeast side. With strong 
 southwesterly winds some williwaws are felt from Kupreanof Moun- 
 tain. Water may be obtained from a stream in a cove on the south 
 side of the bay south (true) from the eastern end of Bare Island. 
 
 Approaching Dry Spruce Bay from eastward, give Dry Spruce Island 
 a berth of % mile, and steer for the western end of Bare Island on 
 any bearing southward of 226 true (SSW mag.) until past the reef 
 northwestward of the western end of Dry Spruce Island. Then haul 
 eastward and pass midway between Dry Spruce and Bare Islands, 
 course about 139 true (SE by E % E mag.). 
 
 Approaching Dry Spruce Bay from westward, vessels may enter 
 either between Bare and Dry Spruce Islands, or south of Bare Island 
 and the small island westward of it. 
 
KUPREANOF STRAIT. 123 
 
 A rock with 16 feet over it lies in Kupreanof Strait 4J4 miles west- 
 ward of Dry Spruce Island, 1% miles from the south shore, and 2*4 
 miles 97 true (ENE ^ E mag.) from the northern extremity of 
 Outlet Cape. It is at the northern end of a bank about J mile in 
 diameter with depths of 7 to 20 fathoms. The range of Chernof 
 Point and the southern side of Whale Island leads 200 yards north- 
 ward of the rock. 
 
 Onion Bay makes into Raspberry Island about 2 miles, and from 
 its head a low divide extends through to Shelikof Strait. The 
 entrance is narrow, and just inside it the bay is blocked by shoals 
 partly bare at low water, between which are narrow channels suita- 
 ble only for small craft. Above these shoals the bay has depths of 
 15 to 21 fathoms. The tidal currents have an estimated velocity 
 of 3 to 5 knots in the entrance. Temporary anchorage can be had 
 y% to y mile off the entrance, in 10 to 15 fathoms. 
 
 Outlet Cape is the western end of the peninsula included between 
 Kupreanof Strait and Viekoda Bay. The cape has a steep slope 
 to a peak 1,620 feet high, eastward of which is a low divide extending 
 through. A cluster of bare rocks lies 350 yards off the northwest 
 end of the cape. Kupreanof Mountain, 7J4 miles eastward of Outlet 
 Cape, has a surface of broken, gray rock; it is 2,400 feet high. 
 
 Malina Point, 2 miles eastward of Raspberry Cape, is projecting 
 and prominent. It has a grass-covered knoll at its end, with a low 
 neck behind it, and then a steep slope to 1,500 feet. 
 
 Raspberry Cape, the southwestern end of Raspberry Island, is 
 steep and high, and has areas of bare rock for one-third its height. 
 There are some bare rocks in the water close to its foot. 
 
 Tides. At Onion Bay high and low water occur about 26 minutes 
 later than at Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides is 11.8 
 feet. To find the approximate height of the tide, multiply the height 
 of the corresponding tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 1.71. 
 The tides meet in the strait a little westward of Dry Spruce Island. 
 The tidal currents in Kupreanof Strait have an estimated velocity 
 of 2 to 3 knots at the strength of the large tides. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, KODIAK TO SHELIKOF STRAIT. 
 
 Narrow Strait. Coming from Kodiak, pass 400 yards eastward 
 of Channel Rock and steer 49 true (NNE ^ E mag.) for 2 miles, 
 passing westward of the horizontally striped buoy marking the 
 12-foot rock and over J^ m il e eastward of Hutchinson Reef bell 
 buoy. When Miller Point opens northward of Hanin Rocks, bearing 
 280 true (WSW J W mag.), change course to 300 true (W % N 
 mag.), with Uzinki Point just open From the southern shore of Nar- 
 row Strait ahead, and pass M mu<e northward of Hanin Rocks. 
 Steer this range for 4^ miles past Hanin Rocks until Nelson Island 
 is ]/2 m il e on the starboard beam. Then steer 304 true (W % N 
 mag.), pass about J mile northward of Course Point, and continue 
 the course about % mile past the point. 
 
 When Shakmanof Point shows in the middle of the passage south- 
 ward of Prokoda Island, bearing 290 true (W % S mag.), steer this 
 course, pass 75 to 100 y-ards southward of the rock westward of the 
 island, and give Otmeloi Point on the south shore abreast the rock a 
 berth of 150 yards. Continue the course until Uzinki Point is 125 
 to not over 150 yards on the starboard beam. 
 
124 KODIAK TO SHELIKOF STRAIT. 
 
 Then steer 297 true (W ^ N mag.) for 2} miles with the tangent 
 to the southern shore of Narrow Strait astern, and pass 650 yards 
 northward of Low Island, 300 yards southward of Three Brothers, 
 and % mile northward of Shakmanof Point. 
 
 Whale Passage. From a position l / mile northward of Shak- 
 manof Point steer 263 true (SW by W % W mag.) for 6% miles, 
 passing over % mile northwestward of Kizhuyak Point. The south- 
 ern end of Whale Island will show as a small wooded head, and there 
 is a rock awash at high water close-to. Keep the southern end of 
 the island aboard distant about 350 yards in entering Whale Passage, 
 and pass about 300 yards southward of the rock awash at high 
 water and J m ^ e northward of Ilkognak Rock. Strict attention 
 to the steering is important on account of heavy swirls. 
 
 Then steer 298 true (W y$ N mag.) with Gori Point in range with 
 or open a little southward of the south end of Koniuji Islet; or Ilkog- 
 nak Rock astern and Koniuji Islet ahead will also lead in about the 
 best water southward of the 16-foot rock. When about % mile 
 from the islet steer 317 true (WNW mag.) for the end of Whale 
 Island to a position % mile northward of Koniuji Islet. 
 
 Kupreanof Strait. From a position J4 m ^ e northward of Koniuji 
 Islet steer 292 true (W }/$ S mag.) for 7% miles, passing % mile 
 northward of Chernof Point, to a position % to Y 2 mile southward of 
 Gori Point. Then steer 286 true (W % S mag.) with the summit of 
 Whale Island astern, passing % mile northward of Outlet Cape and 
 Yi, mile southward of Malina Point, the distance from Gori Point to 
 Malina Point being 10*4 miles. 
 
 If bound down Shelikof Strait, from a position Yi mile southward 
 of Malina Point make good a 244 true (SW % S mag.) course for 18 
 miles, which leads 1 Yi miles westward of Cape Uganik and to a posi- 
 tion 2 miles westward of Cape Ugat. Then a 230 true (SSW y 8 W 
 mag.) course made good for 28 miles will lead nearly 2^ miles west- 
 ward of Cape Uyak and to a position 2 miles westward of Cape Karluk 
 
 SHELIKOF STRAIT. 
 
 The triangulation has been extended southward through the strait, 
 to Cape Karluk and Cape Kubugakli. Only the outlying islands and 
 rocks are located from the northwest end of Shuyak Island to Black 
 Cape, but from the latter point to Cape Karluk most of the points 
 are determined by triangulation. From Shaw Island to Takli Island 
 most of the principal points and outlying rocks are located. 
 
 The hydrography of the main part of the strait has been done from 
 Barren Islands southward to Raspberry Island. In this part of the 
 strait great depth is not generally found near the land, and depths 
 suitable for temporary anchorage will be found near the shore in most 
 places. In thick weather or when uncertain of the position the depth 
 should not be shoaled to less than 50 fathoms. 
 
 Currents. Current observations were made for short periods at 
 the anchorages used by the surveying vessel near the shore. The 
 currents are principally tidal, but the relation of the current to the 
 rise and fall of the tide is not in all cases clear. On the western side 
 of the strait a current of Yi and % knot is recorded, setting along 
 shore in either direction. It is believed that along the western shore 
 the southerly current predominates. 
 
SHELIKOF STRAIT. 125 
 
 Between Cape Douglas and Shaw Island the current is stronger, a 
 2-knot current being recorded, setting along shore to and from Kam- 
 ishak Bay. The current seems to decrease in velocity with increase 
 of distance from shore. Apparently there is less current along the 
 west coast of Afognak Island than on the opposite side of the strait. 
 
 Strong tidal currents are encountered off the northwest side of 
 Shuyak Island, and heavy tide rips variable in position are frequently 
 seen along the western side of Dark Island and Latax Rocks. The 
 flood sets into Shelikof Strait and the ebb the opposite way. The 
 direction of the set is dependent upon the adjacent land, and a knowl- 
 edge of its configuration will enable one to estimate closely the direc- 
 tion of the set. The greatest velocity recorded on the southwest 
 side of Dark Island is 1.3 knots on the flood, but this probably is not 
 the maximum velocity. On the day of the observations slack water 
 occurred near the time of low water at Kodiak. 
 
 Weather. During the summer of 1908 gales and rainy conditions 
 were frequent. June was the be^t month and July perhaps the worst. 
 Northeast winds invariably bring rain and thick weather, and it is 
 from this direction that most of the heavy weather comes. During 
 the greater part of the season the wind when strong from this quarter 
 rarely varied much in direction while its strength lasted, and it never 
 backed. In the latter part of the season a northeast gale almost 
 invariably backed through northwest to west or southwest, blowing 
 with great force. 
 
 Southeast winds generally bring clouds, but may be accompanied 
 by either rain or fair weather. 
 
 Southwest and west winds are invariably accompanied by fine 
 clear weather, but they often blow with great force. The southwest 
 gale is perhaps the most to be dreaded in Shelikof Strait, as it raises 
 a short, heavy sea that is trying to a small vessel. 
 
 Southerly winds generally bring haze, which is sometimes so thick 
 as to resemble fog. 
 
 Northwest winds bring fair weather and a clear atmosphere. 
 
 Gales in this region last without intermission anywhere from a day 
 to two or three days. 
 
 Northeast winds are generally accompanied by a low barometer 
 and southwest winds by a high barometer, but the rule is not invaria- 
 ble. The barometer is of little or no value in foretelling the weather, 
 as it accompanies rather than precedes corresponding conditions. 
 The slope of the barometric curve is apt to change suddenly, the 
 weather changing with equal suddenness. A sure sign of rainy 
 weather and wind from northeast is the gathering of clouds on the 
 northeast side of the mountains. 
 
 Little fog was encountered during the season, but blinding snow- 
 storms were frequent early in spring. 
 
 WEST COAST OF SHUYAK AND AFOGNAK ISLANDS. 
 
 The general trend of the western coast of Shuyak and Afognak 
 Islands is 218 true (S by W % W mag.), and the distance from the 
 northernmost of the Latax Rocks to Raspberry Cape is 48 miles. 
 From Raspberry Cape the eastern coast of Shelikof Strait trends 
 230 true (SSW % W mag.) for 45^ miles to Cape Karluk. 
 
 Party Cape is the northwest end of Shuyak Island. A reef bare at 
 low water lies about midway between the cape and Dark Island, 
 
126 SHUYAK ISLAND - WEST COAST. 
 
 The latter lies 1J^ miles northward from the cape, and is about % 
 mile in diameter, about 200 feet high, and grass-covered. There are 
 several large black rocks off the southwest end of Dark Island. 
 
 Latax Rocks are a chain of three rocky islets, about 60, 50, and 30 
 feet high, respectively, lying 1 J^ to 3 miles northward of Dark Island. 
 Between the two outer ones is a reef bare at low water, and a rock bare 
 at low water lies about y% mile northward of the outer rock. Vessels 
 should not attempt to pass between Party Cape and the outer rock, 
 534 miles northward, in the absence of a survey. 
 
 A depth of 7 fathoms, with a probability of less, was found 1^ 
 miles westward of the southernmost Latax Kock. 
 
 The western side of Shuyak Island is irregular and fringed by a 
 chain of islets and rocks 1 to 2 miles from shore. Between them and 
 the island there are many rocks and kelp patches. Some of the outer 
 ones are located, and these only are mentioned. They lie nearly on 
 a line from the rocks westward of Party Cape to Black Cape, bearing 
 214 true (S % W mag.). 
 
 A rock a few feet high lies % mile westward of Party Cape. Shag 
 Islet, rocky and about 50 feet high, lies 1 mile southward of the pre- 
 ceding rock and about ^ mile from a point on Shuyak. 
 
 Gull Island, the highest and most prominent of the off-lying islets, 
 is about 150 feet high, and has a rounded, grass-covered summit. It 
 lies 2% miles south westward from Party Cape. Some rocks, covered 
 or awash at high water, lie off the south side of Gull Island, and kelp 
 shows between it and Shuyak. 
 
 Kocks show at low water some distance off the southwest point of 
 Shuyak Island. 
 
 A rock with 6 feet over it is reported near the middle of the bay on 
 the west side of Shuyak Island, eastward of Eagle Cape. 
 
 Shuyak Strait has not been examined. It is reported to have 
 strong tidal currents. 
 
 From Shuyak Strait to Black Cape, the coast of Afognak Island is 
 irregular, rocky, and wooded. Many islets lie offshore, especially 
 near Black Cape. Three prominent islets lie nearly on line from the 
 cape to the islets off the western side of Shuyak. The northern one, 
 lying 6 miles from Black Cape, is a large black rock. The second one 
 is about 40 feet high and lies 1J4 miles southward of the preceding 
 rock. The third, lying 2^ miles from Black Cape, is about 40 feet 
 high and broken into several parts, and there are many rocks and 
 islets between it and the shore. 
 
 Black Cape is low and grassy at the end, and rises gradually in a 
 narrow heavily wooded ridge to a prominent bald knob, 1,155 feet 
 high. Bare and sunken rocks extend a short distance off the cape, 
 and a reef, mostly showing above water, lies on its south side. 
 
 The bay between Black Cape and Ban Island has reefs, which do 
 not extend westward of the island. 
 
 Ban Island is mountainous, its highest peak being found near its 
 south shore. There is kelp close to its west end. 
 
 Paramanof Bay, between Ban Island and Cape Paramanof, is not 
 surveyed. It is recommended to favor Ban Island when entering. 
 The Explorer anchored on the south side, 3 miles eastward of Cape 
 Paramanof and about J^ mile off a rocky shore, in 22 fathoms, soft 
 bottom. There is a short sand beach just eastward of the anchorage, 
 and a rocky islet close to shore 3, short distance westward. The 
 
AFOGNAK ISLAND WEST COAST. 127 
 
 anchorage is exposed to westerly and northerly winds. There is said 
 to be good anchorage farther in, but no definite information is 
 available. 
 
 Cape Paramanof is the northwest end of the peninsula included 
 between Paramanof and Malina Bays. It is a low tongue of land 
 projecting J/ mile northward from the mountains. A reef lies on 
 the north side of the cape inside Paramanof Bay, and a part of it, 
 about Yi mile from shore, is bare at low water. 
 
 The peninsula between Paramanof and Malina Bays is marked by 
 two mountain ridges trending eastward, with a small stream in the 
 valley between them. The land is grass covered, with bare rocks in 
 places, and there is no 'timber. The northern ridge rises in steep, 
 grassy slopes to an elevation of 1,842 feet, with a saddle behind it 
 and then extends eastward with about the same height. Tanaak 
 Cape is the northern point at the entrance of Malina Bay. 
 
 Malina Bay is described below. 
 
 Steep Cape is a cliff 1,600 feet high, with a deep break (saddle) 
 behind it, and then a gradual rise to higher land. From offshore the 
 top of the cliff shows irregular, but from northward or southward the 
 summit is sharp. Lying 1 mile northward of Steep Cape is another 
 cliff 1,060 feet high, which is on the south side at the entrance to 
 Malina Bay. 
 
 Raspberry Strait, between Afognak and Raspberry Islands, is not 
 surveyed. Its southeast end is bare at low water. 
 
 Raspberry Island is mountainous and grass-covered on its western 
 side, the principal points being three high cliffs, between which are 
 two deep valleys trending eastward. The southern valley, about the 
 middle of the island, is especially low, and extends through to Onion 
 Bay. 
 
 MALINA BAY 
 
 lies between the mountainous peninsulas terminating westward in 
 Tanaak and Steep Capes. It is about 10 miles long and is a secure 
 harbor. Water can be obtained from numerous small streams. 
 There is some timber near the head of the bay and in some of the 
 valleys. Steep Cape and the high cliff at the south point at the en- 
 trance, and the rounded grass-covered mountains on the northern 
 side of the bay, mark the entrance. 
 
 The bay is 2^ to 3 miles wide for nearly 4 miles and then contracts 
 rapidly to a neck about 1 J^ miles long with a least width of ^g mile. 
 From the south side of the neck an arm extends 1^ miles southeast- 
 ward. Above the neck is a basin 2 miles long with a greatest width 
 of 1J miles. From the eastern end of the basin an arm extends 2 
 miles eastward, with a width of about % mile; it is filled by a flat 
 nearly to its mouth. 
 
 The outer part of the bay is clear, with the exception of a rock bare 
 at low water lying % mile from shore in the bight on the south side 
 nearly 4 miles inside the entrance. Rocks awash at high water 
 extend 300 yards off the south side at the entrance to the neck, and 
 lie 3/2 mile westward of the island in the entrance of the southeast arm. 
 The depths are suitable for anchorage }/ to % mile from shore nearly 
 anywhere in the outer bay. An anchorage, exposed only to westerly 
 winds, can be had on the north side of its eastern end, about % mile 
 westward of an islet, and the same distance from the shore north- 
 westward, in 15 fathoms, sticky bottom, 
 
128 MALINA BAY. 
 
 In the neck off the entrance of the southeast arm is an island, % 
 mile long and 115 feet high, with a clump of trees near its middle. 
 There is no safe passage between it and the shore southeastward. 
 An islet 30 feet high lies on the south side of the neck % mile eastward 
 of the island, and foul ground extends 225 yards from the south shore 
 just eastward of the islet. A rock 15 feet high, with a small one close 
 westward, lies 400 yards northeastward of the islet, the best channel 
 being between them. A rock bare at low water lies 400 yards east- 
 ward of the rock 15 feet high and over 300 yards from the northern 
 shore. 
 
 To go through the neck, pass 200 yards northward of the island, 
 steer 121 true (E ^ S mag.), and pass 100 yards southward of the 
 rock 15 feet high lying in the middle of the neck. 
 
 The basin has depths of 30 to 47 fathoms in its western half and 
 shoals gradually eastward, affording secure anchorage. A rock 
 covered at high water lies 400 yards westward from the north point 
 at the entrance to the narrow arm extending eastward, and a shoal 
 extends 600 yards southwestward from a point on the north shore 
 % mile northward of the rock. The best anchorage is about % mile 
 off the bight at the northern end of the basin, with the entrance (neck) 
 just closed, in 15 to 18 fathoms, sticky bottom. 
 
 The southeast arm is a secure anchorage with a clear width of nearly 
 % mile. The northwest point of the island in the entrance should be 
 given a berth of over 100 yards, and a rock bare at low water lies 100 
 yards from the shore southwestward of the same point. 
 
 To enter the southeast arm, steer 163 true (SE % S mag.), pass 150 
 yards southwestward of the northwest point of the island, and follow 
 the southwest shore of the arm at a distance of about 250 yards. 
 Anchor in the broad part about 5^ m ile from the head, in about 10 
 fathoms, sticky bottom. A flat extends nearly % mile from the head. 
 
 Tides. High and low water occur about 20 minutes later than at 
 Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides is 12 feet. To find 
 the height of the tide multiply the height of the corresponding tide 
 at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 1.74. 
 
 VIEKODA BAY 
 
 is on the eastern side of Shclikof Strait between Outlet Cape 
 and Uganik Island. It extends into Kodiak Island in a 131 true 
 (ESE Yi E mag.) direction, and has a length of 13^ miles from 
 Outlet Carje and 17 miles from Cape Uganik. The lower part of the 
 bay is 3 miles wide. From its southern side, 8 miles below the head, 
 Uganik Passage extends southeastward. Above Uganik Passage 
 the bay is 2 miles wide and narrows to Yi mile at its head. 
 
 Foul ground exists near the shore in places, but except where 
 mentioned below danger will be avoided by giving the shore a berth 
 of Yt mile. 
 
 The head of the bay is shoal for 1 mile to two islets. About Yi 
 mile below the islets there are two islands near the southern shore. 
 Good anchorage may be had % to 1 mile below the islands and 
 about 2 miles from the head of the bay, in 12 to 17 fathoms. 
 
 Off the entrance, 2% to 3% miles from Outlet Cape, is a bank on 
 which the least depth found is 6% fathoms at its northeast end, 
 lying 267 true (SW by W YL W mag.) from the north end of Outlet 
 Cape and 166 true (SE % S mag.) from Raspberry Cape. 
 
VIEKODA BAY. 129 
 
 A narrow point, its end detached, extends % mile from Uganik 
 Island 1 mile eastward from its northern end. Broken ground, with 
 depths of 4 and 5 fathoms, extends Y% m il e 10 true (N by W % 
 W'mag.) from the point. There is a fair anchorage in southerly 
 weather in the bight on the east side of the point, M t /'s m il e 
 from shore, in 10 to 15 fathoms. 
 
 A rock, with 4 Y^ fathoms on it and which should be avoided, lies 
 y% mile from Uganik Island and 2J^ miles westward of the point 
 dividing Viekoda Bay and Uganik Passage. 
 
 The latter point has an islet near it, and a rock bare at low water 
 lies y mile above the islet and % mile from the south shore of 
 Viekoda Bay. Depths of 3 to 5 fathoms extend 34 mile northward 
 of the rock. 
 
 UGANIK PASSAGE 
 
 borders the northeast and south sides of Uganik Island and connects 
 Viekoda and Uganik Bays. The depths in the passage are too great 
 for anchorage except in Terror B-ay. 
 
 The part of Uganik Passage on the northeast side of Uganik Island 
 is clear in mid-channel except 5 miles from Viekoda Bay and 1 mile 
 from the southeastern end of Uganik Island. At this point a flat 
 makes two-thirds the distance across the passage from the mouth 
 of a stream in a large valley on the northeastern shore, and leaves a 
 clear channel 350 yards wide close to a point of Uganik Island. 
 There is an islet close to Uganik Island in the bight southeastward 
 of this point. 
 
 Terror Bay extends 4 miles 190 true (S by E J^ E mag.) from 
 the southeast end of Uganik Passage, with a width of y% to % mile. 
 It then narrows to % mile, trends 154 true (SE J^ E mag.) for 
 nearly 2 miles, and is filled by a flat. The main bay is clear with 
 the exception of three rocks which lie 300 yards from the western 
 shore; the first two, lying % and 1% miles inside the entrance, have 
 3 feet over them; the upper one, lying 1% miles inside the entrance, 
 is 'bare at low water. There is secure anchorage for vessels of any 
 size 3 to 4 miles above the entrance and about 2J^ miles from the 
 head of the bay, in 7 to 15 fathoms. 
 
 The part of Uganik Passage south of Uganik Island is 9 miles 
 long from the southeastern end of Uganik Island to East Point, 
 where it joins Uganik Bay. 
 
 A rock bare at low water lies J4 mn * e from the south side of Uganik 
 Island ^g mile from its southeastern end. 
 
 A high peninsula extends southeastward from Uganik Island 2 
 miles from its southeastern end and narrows the passage to % mile. 
 From the point on the south shore southeastward of the peninsula 
 a ledge bare at low water makes nearly halfway across the passage 
 where narrowest, and the southeast end of the peninsula must be 
 kept aboard distant 100 to 150 yards until past the narrowest place. 
 
 Westward of the peninsula is an island in the middle of the passage, 
 in the vicinity and westward of which are several rocks, sunken 
 and bare at various stages of the tide. Vessels from eastward may 
 pass northward of the foul ground by following the southwest shore 
 of the peninsula at a distance of about 200 yards until the island is 
 abaft the port beam, and then steer 300 true (W y 2 N mag.) for 
 31056 16 9 
 
130 UGANIK PASSAGE. 
 
 the southernmost point on Uganik Island which shows ahead with 
 the summit of the peninsula a little on the port quarter. When 
 the bare rock y$ mile westward of the island is abaft the port beam 
 the dangers will be passed. These are: 
 
 A rock bare at low water lies 300 yards northeastward of the island. 
 
 A rock bare at low water lies 250 yards northward of the bare 
 rock y% mile westward of the island. 
 
 Foul ground and rocks bare at low water extend J^ mile from 
 Uganik Island y% to % mile westward of the peninsula. 
 
 The channel southward of the island is narrower than that north- 
 ward. To go through this channel from eastward, bring the south 
 end of the peninsula barely open from the point eastward astern, and 
 steer for the prominent point on the south shore % mile westward of 
 the island, course 281 true (WSW % W mag.). Keep close on this 
 line, passing midway between the island and an islet near the south 
 shore ^t mile westward of the island. When the islet is passed, haul 
 northward and give the point a berth of over 200 yards. The princi- 
 pal dangers are: 
 
 A rock bare at low water lies 200 yards southwestward of the island. 
 
 A rock with 8 feet over it lies z /% mile westward of the island and J 
 mile northwestward of the islet. 
 
 The islet should be given a berth of over 100 yards, and the south 
 shore for % mile eastward of the islet should be given a berth of 250 
 yards. 
 
 Westward of these dangers Uganik Passage is broad and free from 
 outlying dangers. In the large bight of Uganik Island 5 miles east- 
 ward of East Point shoals extend ^ mile from its northwest shore 
 for a distance of 1 mile from its head. From this bight a broad, low 
 divide extends across the island. 
 
 Rocks bare at low water extend y^ mile from the south shore of the 
 passage 1% miles eastward of East Point, and J^ mile farther east- 
 ward rocks make out 600 yards on the northwest side of a point on 
 the south shore. 
 
 UGANIK BAY 
 
 is on the eastern side of Shelikof Strait, between Uganik Island and 
 the mountainous peninsula terminating westward in Cape Ugat. 
 Only the entrance from Noisy Islands to East Point is sounded. 
 Anchorage with shelter from southerly and westerly winds can be had 
 in the bight 2 miles southeastward of Broken Point, and there is 
 secure anchorage in East Arm. Heavy williwaws occur during 
 southwest gales, which are worst toward the head of the bay where 
 the mountains are highest. The shores rise abruptly with cliffs in 
 places, and are generally covered with grass and bushes. 
 
 Cape Uganik, the northwest end of Uganik Island, is low for about 
 J4 rnile back, and then rises quickly to elevations of 1,200 to 1,500 
 feet. A valley extends across the island about 1 y^ miles eastward of 
 the cape, and the gap can be seen from southward. For a distance 
 of \y<i miles southward from the cape shoals extend about % mn<e 
 from shore in places. 
 
 Noisy Islands lie J^ to j^J mile from Uganik Island and 2J^ miles 
 southward of Cape Uganik. The group is 1 mile long and is two 
 principal islands the northwest one 205 feet high, the southeast one 
 low and flat. Reefs extend about y mile northward and northwest- 
 
UGANIK BAY. 131 
 
 ward from the northwest island, and possibly as much southeastward 
 from the southeast island. The passage between them and Uganik 
 Island has a depth of about 8 fathoms. 
 
 Cape TJgat is on the eastern shore of Shelikof Strait 12 miles south- 
 westward from Cape Uganik. It is a high ridge sloping to a low 
 rocky shelf at the point of the cape. A short distance off the cape is 
 a rocky, grass-covered islet, which can be seen about 15 miles on a 
 clear day and is a good mark. little River is on the south side of 
 Cape Ugat. 
 
 Miners Point, 4 }^ miles northeastward from Cape Ugat, terminates 
 in two island-like knobs, the inner one 430 feet high and conical, the 
 outer one lower and flatter. 
 
 Broken Point, 3% miles eastward from Miners Point, is low and 
 flat for ^ mile back, its end being detached, and then rises to high 
 land. A depth of 3% fathoms, with deep water close-to, was found 
 400 yards northward of the point. The entrance of Uganik Bay is 
 3 miles wide between this point and Noisy Islands, and inside the 
 point the bay widens to about 5"miles until up with East Point. 
 
 A stream empties in the bight 1% miles southward of Broken 
 Point. There is good anchorage sheltered from southerly and west- 
 erly winds about % mile southeastward of the mouth of the stream 
 and ^/g to ~j/2 m il from shore, in 8 to 15 fathoms. 
 
 East Point, 5 miles eastward of Broken Point, is the northwestern 
 extremity of the high peninsula separating Uganik Bay and Passage. 
 There is a flat rock with bluff sides close to the point, and from the 
 latter there is a long, gentle slope to high land. 
 
 At East Point Uganik Bay is 2J/ miles wide, from which it extends 
 12*/2 miles 180 true (SSE mag.), narrowing gradually, to the head 
 of South Arm. Little sounding has been done, but the bay is clear 
 so far as known. 
 
 Northeast Arm, not surveyed, extends eastward from Uganik Bay 
 iles southward of East Point. Rock Point, the south point 
 
 to 4 miles southward of East Point. Rock Point, the south point 
 at the entrance, is marked by several bare rocks which extend off 
 250 yards. 
 
 Village Islands are numerous islands and rocks extending } to % 
 mile from the western shore 2 to 4 miles southward of East Point. 
 In the cove between the. south end of the islands and Village Peninsula 
 anchorage is reported for small vessels. There is a native village at 
 the head of the cove. 
 
 East Arm extends eastward from Uganik Bay 7 miles southward 
 from East Point. It is 1 mile wide at the entrance and over 3 miles 
 long, but a flat extends 1 J^ miles from its head or J/2 mile below the 
 island in the bight on the south side of the arm. The depths range 
 from 15 fathoms at the entrance to 6 fathoms near the edge of the flat. 
 The arm is clear so far as known and is a secure anchorage for vessels 
 of any size. It is subject to heavy williwaws during southwest gales, 
 but these are not dangerous to well-found vessels. The north point 
 at the entrance is a low spit, on which is a disused cannery. 
 
 South Arm extends 5J/2 miles southward from the south point of 
 East Arm. No sounding has been done. 
 
132 UGANIK BAY. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, UGANIK BAY. 
 
 From northward, round Cape Uganik at a distance of 1 mile and 
 steer 222 true ( S by W % W mag.) for 3 J^ miles to a position 1 mile 
 westward of Noisy Islands. Then steer 164 true (SE }/% S mag.), 
 passing about % mile off the western shore from West Point to 
 Village Islands, and ^ mile eastward of the islands. This course 
 made good for 10 miles should lead to a mid-channel position between 
 the southernmost of the Village Islands and Rock Point. Then steer 
 192 true (S by E mag.) for 2^ miles, following the eastern shore at 
 a distance of about }/ mile, to the entrance of East Arm. 
 
 From southward, give Cape Ugat and Miners Point a berth of about 
 \Y^ miles and Broken Point a berth of about % mile. Then steer 
 154 true (SE % E mag.) for 3% miles to a position about % mile 
 off West Point. Then steer 164 true (SE ^ S mag.) for 4 miles to 
 a mid-channel position between the southernmost of the Village 
 Islands and ROCK Point as in the preceding paragraph. 
 
 UYAK BAY 
 
 is on the eastern side of Shelikof Strait southward of the mountainous 
 peninsula terminating westward in Cape Ugat. Uyak Anchorage, a 
 secure harbor convenient to Shelikof Strait, is on the southern side 
 of the bay, 16 miles southward of Cape Ugat and 18 miles northward 
 of Cape Karluk. Some of the points in the approach to the bay are 
 determined by triangulation, and Uyak Anchorage and Uyak Bay 
 above Harvester Island are surveyed. The principal dangers in the 
 surveyed areas are mentioned in the description following. 
 
 The approach between Cape Kuliuk and Rocky Point is about 11 
 miles wide, eastward of which the bay converges rapidly to Harvester 
 Island. It extends 25 miles in a southeasterly direction above 
 Harvester Island, and is 3 to 4 miles wide from the latter to Amook 
 Island. The shores of the bay rise in steep slopes to elevations of 
 2,000 to over 4,000 feet, and there are numerous mountain streams. 
 
 Cape Kuliuk, about 5 miles southward from Cape Ugat, is a cliff 
 at the end of a ridge about 2,000 feet high. 
 
 From Cape Uyak high cliffs extend about 5 miles northeastward to 
 Rocky Point. Between Rocky Point and Bear Island the coast is 
 low bluffs, and a wide valley extends back several miles. 
 
 Bear Island, about 5^ miles east-northeastward from Rocky Point, 
 is nearly % mile in diameter, 249 feet high, and grass-covered. It 
 lies J4 m il e from shore, with which it is connected by a bowlder spit, 
 bare at half tide. 
 
 Harvester Island, % mile eastward of Bear Island, is over 1 mile 
 long, 844 feet high, steep-sided, and grass covered. The 20-fathom 
 curve is about % m il e on? the northern and eastern sides of the island. 
 
 Uyak Anchorage is the best harbor on the eastern side of Shelikof 
 Strait southward of Uganik Bay, and is easily entered. It lies between 
 Harvester Island and the shore, the passage having a width of % to 
 ^s mile. The depths range from about 7 fathoms between Harvester 
 and Bear Islands to 20 fathoms % P^ 6 northwestward of the cannery. 
 The best anchorage is about J^ mile northwest of the cannery, in 12 
 to 14 fathoms. There is also good anchorage, except with heavy 
 northeasterly or easterly winds, in the bight % to ^ mile southeast- 
 ward of the cannery and J mile from shore, in 12 to 14 fathoms. 
 
UYAK BAY. 133 
 
 The better and safer entrance is around the south end of Harvester 
 Island. Cormorant Rock, bare at half tide, lies over Y% mile south- 
 eastward of Harvester Island and 300 yards from shore. A spit, 
 bare at low water and steep-to, extends 425 yards 218 true (S by 
 W Y% W mag.) from the south end of Harvester Island. This spit, 
 has extended 45 yards in the direction of its axis between the years 
 1908 and 1915. 
 
 The northwest entrance is % mile wide between two reefs, partly 
 bare at half tide and marked by kelp, one extending 400 yards 
 westward from the northwest end of Harvester Island, and the 
 other lying 250 to 550 yards eastward from Bear Island. With 
 care this entrance is not difficult in the daytime, especially at low 
 water when the principal dangers show above water. 
 
 Uyak is a post office and cannery on the southwest side of Uyak 
 Anchorage southwestward from the south end of Harvester Island. 
 There is a depth of 20 feet at the end of the north wharf and 9 feet 
 at the south wharf. Water can be obtained through pipe and hose. 
 There are some buildings and the remains of a wharf in the bight 
 y% mile southward of the cannery. 
 
 The large arm on the eastern side of Uyak Bay opposite Harvester 
 Island is not surveyed. 
 
 Zachar Bay is on the eastern side, 6 miles 124 true (E by S mag.) 
 from Harvester Island and 2 y 2 miles northward from Amook Island. 
 It is 6 miles long 124 true (E by S mag.) and % to 1 mile wide. 
 No sounding has been done, but the north side is apparently clear. 
 The south point at the entrance is surrounded by sunken reefs, and 
 a reef bare at half tide lies Y% mile northward from the point. A 
 flat extends nearly 2 miles from the head of the bay. 
 
 Larsen Bay is on the western side, 6 miles southward of Harvester 
 Island and 262 true (SW by W M W mag.) from the north end of 
 Amook Island. It is 4 miles long 259 true (SW by W mag.), about 
 J^ mile wide, and has depths of 30 to 40 fathoms on its northwest 
 side and less on the opposite side. From its head low land extends 
 to Karluk River, a distance of about 2 miles. A cannery is main- 
 tained by the Alaska Packers' Association in the bight just south- 
 ward of the inner south entrance point. 
 
 The entrance to Larsen Bay is through a crooked channel J^ mile 
 long and 200 yards wide, between flats partly bare at low water, 
 one extending 300 yards southward from the north point at the 
 entrance and the other filling the bight on the south side opposite. 
 A rock bare at low water lies in the entrance of the channel 200 
 yards northwestward from a black rock about 20 feet high, which 
 lies 100 yards off a point on the south shore. The better channel 
 is between the black rock and the rock awash, and has a depth of 
 about 27 feet. The tidal currents in the entrance have an estimated 
 velocity of 2 to 4 knots at strength. 
 
 Strangers should enter Larsen Bay at low water, or buoy the 
 rock at the entrance and the flat on the north side. With care 
 small vessels can enter by the following directions: Pass 75 to not 
 over 100 yards northward of the black rock near the south shore, 
 ami steer 260 true (SW by W mag.) for the mound on the southern 
 side until the north point at the entrance is abeam and the disused 
 cannery is open about one-half point westward of it. Then haul 
 northwestward and pass about 200 yardtf northward of the mound. 
 
134 UYAK BAY. 
 
 Anchorage can be had in mid-channel southward of the disused 
 cannery on the north side just inside the entrance, in 5 to 8 fathoms. 
 Near the south shore of Larsen Bay 1 mile southward of the disused 
 cannery is a small island. There is good anchorage 300 to 400 yards 
 northward or northwestward of the island, in 6 to 10 fathoms, but 
 care must be taken to avoid the flat which makes out % mile in the 
 bight northeastward of the island. A flat extends about J4 mile 
 from the head of the bay; anchorage can be had below the flat in 
 10 to 12 fathoms. 
 
 Amook Island, 7^ miles long and 1,686 feet high, divides Uyak 
 Bay into two passages, the north end of the island lying 6J^ miles 
 southeastward of Harvester Island. Reefs extend % mile north- 
 ward from the north end of Amook Island. 
 
 The passage west of Amook Island is the principal one. It is 
 1 to 1% miles wide and generally clear. In the bight of Amook 
 Island 2% miles from its north end there is anchorage for a small 
 vessel, in about 10 fathoms, with shelter from easterly and southerly 
 winds. The bottom is uneven and there is a possibility of dangers. 
 The entrance is between the south point of the bight and a bare 
 rock lying % rnile northward from the point and y% mile from Amook 
 Island. Between this rock and the island is a reef, partly bare at 
 low water, which extends J^ mile southeastward from an islet. 
 
 A rock, bare at low water and which may be passed on either 
 side, lies M mu<e . from Amook Island and y% mile 253 true (SW y^ 
 W mag.) from its south end. 
 
 The passage east of Amook Island is obstructed at points 2^ 
 miles from the north end of the island and 3*4 miles from the south 
 end, and should be used only by small vessels with local knowledge. 
 For a distance of 2J^ miles the north end of the passage is clear, 
 with depths of 14 to 20 fathoms, and anchorage can be had here. 
 At the southeast end of this anchorage is a shallow lagoon at the 
 mouth of a deep valley. Small vessels can anchor 300 yards off the 
 mouth of the lagoon in 5 to 6 fathoms. 
 
 At y^ mile westward of the lagoon the passage narrows to 300 yards, 
 and from the east point of the narrows a kelp-marked reef extends 
 westward and northwestward over halfway across, leaving a narrow 
 channel between it and the west shore. Near the northwest end of 
 the reef is a bare rock. There is a good anchorage around the point 
 on the west side at the south end of the narrows, in 5 to 8 fathoms. 
 
 Thence for a distance of 2 miles the passage is clear to the second 
 narrows. At this point a spit partly bare at low water extends half- 
 way across from a low grassy point on the west side, and leaves a 
 channel 125 yards wide between the southeast end of the spit and an 
 island. The channel is westward of this island and the next one % 
 mile southward, and the western shore should be favored until over 
 34 mile southward of the southern island. Southward of this point 
 the passage is clear. Some prospecting has been done on the east 
 side of the passage 2 miles from its south end. 
 
 Lying M to 2j^ miles southward of Amook Island is a chain of 
 islands with foul ground between them and about 300 yards off the 
 northwest end of the northern one called Alf Island. There is deep 
 water between the islands and the foul ground abreast them making 
 out from the western shore, but the safer channel is eastward of the 
 islands and is clear. Lying 1 J^ miles southeastward of Amook Island 
 
UYAK BAY. 135 
 
 is a bare rock at the end of a reef extending 200 yards from the eastern 
 shore. 
 
 At the south end of these islands there is an inlet in the west shore 
 about % mile long and 300 yards wide, affording anchorage in about 
 12 fathoms. 
 
 Southward of the islands Uyak Bay is 1J^ miles to 1 mile wide, 
 and trends 158 true (SE mag.) for 7 miles from the south end of 
 Amook Island. In the last 3 miles of this distance the depths shoal 
 gradually from 20 to 7 fathoms, and anchorage can be selected in any 
 depth desired. The bay then turns to 119 true (E ^ S mag.) for 5 
 miles, with a width of % to % mile, and is filled by a flat. 
 
 Tides. At Uyak Anchorage high and low water occur about 18 
 minutes later than at Kodiak, and the mean rise and fall of the tides 
 is 11.5 feet. To find the height of the tide multiply the height of the 
 corresponding tide at Kodiak by the ratio of ranges, 1.67. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, UYAK BAY. 
 
 te 
 
 From northward, round Cape Ugat at a distance of about 1 % miles 
 and steer 220 true (S by W J^ W mag.) for 6 miles to a position 2^ 
 miles off Cape Kuliuk, bearing 102 true (E by N mag.). Then steer 
 172 true (SSE % E mag.) for 10 miles, giving the eastern shore a 
 berth of about 2 miles, to a position J^ mile eastward of Harvester 
 Island. 
 
 Then steer 237 true (SW by S mag.), passing about % mile south- 
 eastward of Harvester Island and heading for an old wharf. Anchor 
 300 to 500 yards northeastward or northward of the old wharf, in 10 
 to 14 fathoms. 
 
 To go to the inner harbor, follow the preceding directions, and then 
 hauling northwestward keep the western shore aboard distant 250 to 
 350 yards to avoid the spit extending from the south end of Harvester 
 Island. Then steer 341 true (NW J^ N mag.) for the northwest end 
 of Harvester Island, pass 150 to 200 yards off the cannery wharf, and 
 continue the course to mid-channel. 
 
 From southward, it is said in going from Karluk to Uyak Anchorage 
 that there are no dangers 1 mile offshore. The following are the 
 approximate courses and distances: From a position 1 mile north- 
 westward of Cape Uyak 68 true (NE mag.) for 4^ miles, and then 
 93 true (ENE % E mag.) for 6 miles passing 1 mile off Rocky Point 
 and Bear Island. When Bear Island bears 180 true (SSE mag.) 
 steer about 124 true (E by S mag.) for 2 miles to a position J^ mile 
 northeastward of Harvester Island. Follow the eastern .shore of 
 Harvester Island at a distance of about J/ mile, and proceed as 
 directed in the two paragraphs preceding. 
 
 GAPE UYAK TO CAPE KARLUK. 
 
 Cape Uyak is a precipitous, high headland at the end of a ridge. 
 From the water the slope is rapid to an elevation of 647 feet. There 
 is then a slight fall to a deep notch in the narrow neck back of the cape, 
 from which there is a rise in steep, grassy slopes to higher land. 
 
 Northeast Harbor is a bight about 1 mile long, with a beach of sand 
 and shingle, on the south side of Cape Uyak. It affords anchorage 
 for small vessels in depths of 9 to 15 fathoms, bottom sand and good 
 holding ground, with fair shelter in northeasterly weather. 
 
136 CAPE UYAK TO CAPE KARLUK. 
 
 Between Cape Uyak and Karluk there are two long cliffs about 
 1,300 feet high, the southern one having a marked slide extending 
 from its highest point almost to the water. In the valley between 
 the cliffs are two waterfalls. There is a house on the bluff near the 
 south fall and a fishermen's camp on the beach near the north one. 
 
 Karluk lies 5*/ miles southward of Cape Uyak and \Y^ miles east- 
 ward of Cape Karluk. A hatchery is maintained on Karluk River 
 by the Alaska Packers Association. The entrance to Karluk Lagoon 
 is through a narrow channel at the south end of the spit and is only 
 passable for boats with the water above half tide. 
 
 The anchorage off Karluk is an open roadstead, sheltered from 
 easterly winds but exposed to winds from southwest through west to 
 northeast. It should not be used by vessels without power to get 
 away in case of its coming on to blow. Anchorage may be had y% 
 mile northward of the entrance to the lagoon, in depths of 12 to 14 
 fathoms. The 3-fathom curve lies about 300 yards off the spit, and 
 there are no dangers so far as known in the approach. Uyak Anchor- 
 age is the nearest harbor for vessels compelled to leave Karluk from 
 stress of weather. 
 
 There is a cliff 820 feet high just west of Karluk, and between this 
 cliff and Cape Karluk is a small bight called Tanglefoot Bay. Low 
 land extends through back of Cape Karluk to the beach south of 
 the cape. 
 
 Cape Karluk is a prominent, projecting head, 1,438 feet high, with 
 bare rock cliffs on its seaward face and grassy slopes on its eastern 
 side to low land. It is readily identified by its cone-shaped appear- 
 ance, a notch in the summit, and the low land behind it. 
 
 KODIAK ISLAND, SOUTH COAST. 
 
 The south coast of Kodiak Island is unsurveyed, with the exception 
 of the west side of Alitak Bay and part of the shore line of Sitkinak 
 Island and the north end of Tugidak Island. The following notes 
 are from reports and should be used with caution. The land is 
 partly wooded for several miles southward from Cape Chiniak and 
 otherwise there are scattered clumps of alders in places in the valleys. 
 
 TIgak Island is about 1,200 feet high, with fairly steep sides; bare 
 rocks show for a distance of possibly y^ mile off its eastern side, and 
 breakers at high water were seen for a considerable distance off its 
 western side. There is a low spit on the northwest side of the island; 
 there is a reported anchorage for small craft under the lee of the spit 
 in northeast winds. The passage between Ugak Island and Narrow 
 Cape is about 3 miles wide; it is said to have strong currents with 
 heavy rips resembling breakers. The best water is reported to be 
 near Ugak, but it is not recommended for strangers. 
 
 Narrow Cape is a flat headland possibly 200 feet high, terminating 
 southward in a vertical face in places. From northward it appears 
 like an island. 
 
 Ugak Bay is reported to have good anchorages for small craft at 
 least. The north point at the entrance westward of Narrow Cape 
 is a prominent cliff. The rocks shown on the chart in the north side 
 of the bay westward of the cliff are said to show above water mostly 
 and are easily avoided in clear weather. Small craft have anchored 
 in two coves on the north side of Ugak Bay westward of the valley 
 
KODIAK ISLAND SOUTH COAST. 137 
 
 leading to Kalsin Bay. A sketch of the south arm shows an anchor- 
 age for small craft in the cove which has 7 fathoms shown in its 
 entrance on chart 8502 ; the depths in the cove are shown as 4 to 6 
 fathoms, and its west side is shoal. There are portages to Kalsin Bay 
 and Kiliuda Bay, the latter from the native village of Eagle Harbor. 
 
 Dangerous Cape is said to be a continuous line of bluffs, which 
 should be approached with caution on account of off-lying rocks. 
 
 Kiliuda Bay, reported to have several good harbors, is about 17 
 miles long and has two arms. On the south shore of the western arm 
 are several open bays, gome of which may afford anchorage; at the 
 head is an extensive shoal flat. Just westward of Shearwater Bay, 
 there is an open bay with some rocks, the western one about 70 feet 
 high, lying about J^ mile from shore. About 4 miles westward of 
 the rock there is a sand spit on the north side, about J mile long, 
 westward of which anchorage might be obtained in a depth of 10 
 fathoms. 
 
 About 1 mile farther westward is the entrance, % mile wide, to an 
 inlet which extends 2 or 3 miles north-northwestward with high 
 mountains on both sides, their lower parts covered with thick scrub. 
 At the head the inlet shoals abruptly from 25 fathoms. A river 
 empties at the northwest corner and a small creek on the northeast 
 side. Anchorage with good holding ground may be obtained in the 
 middle of the inlet near the head, in 24 fathoms; also in a depth of 
 15 fathoms in a bay on the south side of the western arm, southward 
 of the entrance to this inlet. 
 
 Shearwater Bay, the north arm of Kiliuda Bay, extends about 6 miles 
 in a northerly direction, the land being generally low except on the 
 southeast side, where there are grassy slopes up to high hills. A flat 
 extends 600 yards from the head, which is low and marshy. Secure 
 anchorage may be had in 5 to 6 fathoms, J to % mile from the head, 
 after passing low spits which extend from each side. Rocks awash 
 extend some distance f rOm each side of the entrance, so a mid-channel 
 course should be followed. 
 
 Sitkalidak Strait, separating Sitkalidak Island from Kodiak Island, 
 is wide at the entrances, but the through passage is a narrow, tortuous 
 channel which has been used by small local craft of 8 feet or less draft, 
 but is not available for strangers. 
 
 Cape Barnabas, the northeast end of Sitkalidak Island, is a con- 
 spicuous, bold, rocky bluff, surrounded by rocks. A rock on which 
 the sea breaks lies a little over 1 mile northward of the cape. 
 
 Port Hobron, the second deep bay from Cape Barnabas on the north 
 side of Sitkalidak Island, is a good harbor for any vessel. Water 
 can be obtained from a mountain stream on the west side near the 
 head. 
 
 Newman Bay, on the west side of Sitkalidak Island, is the one 
 shown on chart 8502 with 27 fathoms in the entrance. A sketch of 
 the bay shows the following: A reef extends southward from the north 
 point at the entrance; there is a point, or possibly a spit, on the south- 
 east side of the upper part of the bay; a reef bare at low water lies off 
 the southwest side of the point, and a shoal extends a short distance 
 off its northeast side; there are depths of 8 to 10 fathoms in the bay 
 above the point, and secure anchorage for small craft above the point 
 in the angle between it and the shore; deep water is indicated up the 
 middle of the bay. 
 
138 KODIAK ISLAND SOUTH COAST. 
 
 Three Saints Bay, on the west side of Sitkalidak Strait, is reported 
 to afford good anchorage for vessels, but is surrounded by hign land 
 and is subject to heavy williwaws. A local sketch of Inree Saints 
 Bay shows an anchorage for small craft in a lagoon inside of a spit on 
 the west side just inside the entrance. The entrance to the lagoon 
 is around the north end of the spit, and has a depth of 6 fathoms; 
 the depths inside are 8 to 1 1 fathoms. The sketch also shows a shoal 
 bordering the east side of the spit, and a reef of apparently bare rocks 
 extending southward from the north point at the entrance of the bay. 
 
 Old Harbor is on the west side of Sitkalidak Strait about 4 miles 
 northward of Three Saints Bay. The Albatross anchored in 7 fath- 
 oms in Sitkalidak Strait off the native village. Entering from south- 
 ward a mid-channel course was followed to the anchorage, the strait 
 being free from hidden dangers except near the shores. Two Headed 
 Island is the best mark for the approach. The country around Old 
 Harbor is mountainous with a narrow belt of level land near the water 
 where the village stands. 
 
 Black Point, the south end of Sitkalidak Island, shows darker than 
 its surroundings. There is an islet 200 yards in prolongation of the 
 point, and J mile farther is a rock just above water which marks the 
 end of a ledge extending from the point. 
 
 Two Headed Island has two irregularly rounded peaks and is easily 
 recognized. Old sketches indicate some high rocks near the shores. 
 Both sides of the island are said to be clear. 
 
 Kaguyak Bay affords anchorage in 6 to 8 fathoms for all winds 
 except from north to east. With northeast winds small craft for- 
 merly anchored close under the inner bluff on the east side of the bay. 
 The native village of Kaguyak is at the head of the bay. The land is 
 low, except westward of the bay, and the low land extends to Cape 
 Trinity. The south point at the entrance has a reef of bare rocks 
 making off in prolongation of the point, and there is said to be a 
 sunken rock about one-third the distance from the bare rocks to Two 
 Headed Island, the island side being clear. 
 
 Cape Trinity, the south end of Kodiak Island, is a tableland of 
 moderate elevation which increases in height very slowly northward 
 and terminates abruptly in rocky cliffs. The shore is fringed with 
 reefs and pinnacle rocks. 
 
 Albatross Bank. While engaged in sealing, Indians reported to 
 Mr. S. Applegate that they saw kelp in the vicinity of the 15-fathom 
 soundings shown on the chart. From bearings on the east end of 
 Sitkinak while at anchor in the vicinity of the reported kelp, and the 
 run of his vessel from that island, the position is placed approximately 
 27 miles 116 true (E J^ S mag.) from the east end of Sitkinak Island. 
 
 Geese Islands are flattened in appearance, the highest possibly 200 
 feet, and have no marked feature. Aiaktalik Island shows as two 
 flattened knolls, the eastern one the sharper; there is a native village 
 with a Greek church at the southwest end of the bight on the north 
 side of the island. There is foul ground between the islands, and 
 possibly as much as 2 miles in places off their south side. The strait 
 between the islands and Kodiak is obstructed by reefs and is unsafe. 
 A sunken rock has been reported about 2 miles north-northeastward 
 of the northeasternmost island. 
 
 Russian Harbor, between Aiaktalik Island and Kodiak, is a tem- 
 porary anchorage in moderate weather, in about 8 fathoms, hard sand 
 bottom; but there is little shelter, and with strong winds there are 
 
KODIAK ISLAND SOUTH COAST. 139 
 
 heavy tide rips on account of the strong currents. The little sounding 
 that has been done indicates a broken bottom, and the harbor is not 
 recommended for strangers. 
 
 The cove in Aiaktalik Island at the village has depths of 2 to 4 
 fathoms with bowlders in places. It has been used by small craft, 
 but is exposed to northeast winds. An extensive reef, bare at half 
 tide and marked by kelp, extends Y% mile northward from the west 
 point of the cove. There is a narrow channel with strong currents 
 between the reef and the point. With northeast or northwest winds 
 small craft anchor close to shore in the bight of Kodiak Island north- 
 ward of Aiaktalik. 
 
 Sitkinak Strait is not surveyed, but is known to be navigable for 
 vessels. In the narrowest part of the strait favor Sitkinak Island, 
 taking care, however, to give it a berth of over 1 mile ; the depths are 
 12 to 17 fathoms. As mentioned above, the vicinity of Geese Islands 
 is foul. A bank of considerable extent, on which the least depth 
 found is 5 fathoms, lies near the middle of the strait off the small 
 island southwestward of Aiakt&lik. The reef on which the Pavlof 
 struck is reported to lie 2 miles southeastward of the southeast end 
 of Aiaktalik Island. The position is doubtful. 
 
 The currents in Sitkinak Strait set westward on the flood and east- 
 ward on the ebb. There are heavy tide rips in the strait, sometimes 
 in spots southward and westward of Aiaktalik Island, and at times 
 extending in a double line of breakers across to Sitkinak. So far as 
 observed they are heaviest with westerly winds and a flood current. 
 They are often dangerous for small craft, and may at times trouble 
 small vessels. 
 
 TRINITY ISLANDS 
 
 lie off the south end of Kodiak Island. There are two principa 
 islands, called Sitkinak and Tugidak, which are again divided by 
 lagoons that are navigable only by small boats at high water and have 
 strong currents. The shore line of Sitkinak Island, except for about 6 
 miles on its southwest side, and the north end of Tugidak Island 
 have been surveyed. The soundings around the islands are from 
 reports. 
 
 Fresh water can be obtained from the ravines and pools on the 
 islands. Landing can be made only when the weather is unusually 
 quiet, and the sea makes rapidly. The beaches are generally a heavy 
 shingle. There are a few alder bushes and there is driftwood on the 
 beach. There are no inhabitants except occasionally a few hunters 
 and fishermen in summer. Some prospecting has been done at the 
 southwest end of Tugidak Island. 
 
 Sitkinak Island is divided by a lagoon. The eastern part has hills 
 separated by low valleys. A reef extends northeastward from its 
 east end; there are two pairs of bare rocks on the reef, the outer ones 
 1 mile from shore, and at low water extensive reefs show around them. 
 The south shore of the islands is believed to be foul and should be 
 carefully avoided. 
 
 The western and high part of Sitkinak Island is composed of two 
 main ridges separated by a high valley, the easterly ridge having an 
 elevation of about 1,500 feet and the westerly one about 1,200 feet. 
 The north point is low and flat, and is backed by high land which 
 rises steeply. The northwest side of the island is earth cliffs several 
 hundred feet high, broken by narrow ravines, and is foul offshore. 
 
140 TRINITY ISLANDS. 
 
 The passage between Sitkinak and Tugidak Islands has very strong 
 tidal currents, and its south approach is apparently blocked by shoals. 
 
 Tugidak Island, in its northern part, is chiefly sand flats, but little 
 above high water, the higher parts of which are low, grassy sand hills ; 
 it is separated from the southern or higher part of the island by 
 lagoons of some depth with strong currents. The western and higher 
 part of the island is earth cliffs from 200 to 400 feet high, from the 
 crest of which the surface slopes gradually to the eastern shore. 
 
 In 1909, Mr. S. Applegate located the foul and broken area which 
 extends about 10 miles southward from the south end of Tugidak 
 Island, as shown on chart 8502, by compass bearings on Tugidak 
 Island and the summit of Sitkinak Island. Until a survey is available 
 it is considered unsafe for vessels to cross this area. The bottom is 
 very uneven, the depths changing abruptly from 2 to 4 fathoms in 
 places, and bowlder reefs with little depth may be expected. There 
 are strong currents and heavy rips and overfalls. 
 
 The north and west sides of Tugidak Island may be generally 
 approached as close as 1 mile in good weather by a careful use of the 
 lead. Care should be observed near the middle of the west side of 
 Tugidak, as an unsurveyed bank with depths probably as little as 2 
 fathoms lies some distance off, possibly 2 or 3 miles. 
 
 Alitak Bay is described under a separate heading following. 
 
 Cape Alitak and Low Cape are determined bytriangulation, and the 
 position of the salient points and rocks from the latter to Cape Karluk 
 have been approximately determined, so that fairly good courses can 
 be given. No sounding has been done, and it is advisable to give the 
 points and outer rocks a berth of 2 miles. 
 
 The following are approximate courses and distances along the coast ; 
 allowance should be made for the tidal currents, which have an esti- 
 mated velocity of 1 to 2 knots at strength, setting along shore, north- 
 ward on the flood and southward on the ebb: 
 
 Passing 2 miles off Cape Karluk, steer 222 true (S by W % W 
 mag.) for 6 miles to a position 2 miles westward of a high, white cliff. 
 Then change to 213 true (S % W mag.) for 10.5 miles to a position 
 2 miles westward of the two large and high pinnacle rocks lying % 
 mile westward of the middle ridge northward of Cape Ikolik. Then 
 haul to 191 true (S by E mag.) for 4 miles to a position 2 miles west- 
 southwestward of the outer Seal Rocks off Cape Ikolik. Then steer 
 152 true (SE ^ E mag.) for 23 miles to a position 2 miles south- 
 westward of Low Cape. Then a 143 true (SE by E ^ E mag.) 
 course for 11.5 miles leads to a position 2 miles southwestward of 
 Cape Alitak. 
 
 Twin Peaks, described under Alitak Bay, are prominent along the 
 coast as far as Cape Ikolik. 
 
 Low Cape, lying 11.5 miles 323 true (NW by W % W mag.) from 
 Cape Alitak, is the western extremity of the low land in this vicinity. 
 A spit and apparently shoal water extend a considerable distance 
 off the cape, and it should be given a berth of 2 miles. Kelp extends 
 2 or 3 miles from shore in places in the bight between Cape Alitak 
 and Low Cape. There are high bluffs about 4 miles northward of 
 Low Cape. There is said to be good anchorage in northeasterly 
 winds along the shore between Low Cape and Ayakulik Island. 
 
 Ayakulik Island is small and about 350 feet high. Ayakulik 
 River makes inland a little southward of the island. Foul ground 
 is reported between Ayakulik Island and Cape Ikolik. 
 
KODIAK ISLAND SOUTH END. 141 
 
 The west end of Kodiak Island consists of three headlands which 
 are the ends of three high ridges. The name Cape Ikolik is here 
 applied to the southerly headland. 
 
 Cape Ikolik is marked by two high conical islets close-to, and 
 there are some pinnacle rocks on its south side. Seal Rocks are 
 two principal rocks off Cape Ikolik. The inner one, lying about % 
 mile west-sou thwestward of the cape, is a large, steep-sided, bare 
 rock, with a yellowish tinge, and having a nub on top which gives 
 it the appearance of a lighthouse; there is a small, low rock close 
 to its southwest side. The outer Seal Rocks, lying nearly 2 miles 
 westward of the cape, is a pinnacle which at a distance resembles 
 a sail; foul ground which does not break is reported to extend about 
 y% mile outside the rock. 
 
 The middle headland lies about 3 miles northward of Cape Ikolik, 
 and there is a large bight between it and the cape. Two large and 
 high pinnacle rocks, one twice as high as the other, lie close together 
 and about J^ mile westward of this headland. 
 
 The northerly headland, lying about 1% miles northward of the 
 middle one, is marked by a high, steep-sided, rocky islet, and a 
 number of pinnacle rocks which lie close to shore. 
 
 Halibut Bay is the local name of the bight between the headland 
 described in the preceding paragraph and Cape Grant. It is fre- 
 quently used as an anchorage by fishing vessels in northeasterly 
 winds. The officers of the U. S. S. Grant examined the bay, and 
 report that it is sheltered from about north through east to south. 
 Except the reef making off Cape Grant, local pilots report that no 
 dangers exist in the bay. Many soundings taken in the examina- 
 tion showed regular bottom shoaling gradually toward the shore. 
 There is a sand beach at the head of the bay, and a prominent red 
 cliff on its east shore which opens from the south headland of the 
 bay on a bearing of about northeast (mag.). The following are 
 the courses recommended : 
 
 Round Cape Grant at a distance of 1 mile, and stand in for the 
 prominent conical peak at the head of the bay. When the red cliff 
 bears 43 true (N by E % E mag.) haul up for it parallel to the sand 
 beach, and anchor about % mile from the red cliff in 10 to 12 fathoms. 
 
 Cape Grant lies about 10 miles southward of Cape Karluk and 
 about 6 miles northward of the two large and high pinnacle rocks, 
 lying off the middle headland previously described. The cape is a 
 rugged headland at the end of a high ridge, the summit of which is 
 marked by a small cluster of peculiar pinnacle rocks. A reef which 
 breaks in heavy weather extends possibly ^ mile off the cape. 
 
 A headland of high, white cliffs lies about 4 miles northward of 
 Cape Grant and about 6 miles southward of Cape Karluk. The 
 cliffs are at the end of a fairly level ridge which extends some distance 
 back with an estimated elevation of 1,200 feet. 
 
 ALITAK BAY, 
 
 at the south end of Kodiak Island, is about 7 miles wide at the en- 
 trance between Cape Alitak and Cape Trinity, and in its length of 
 about 13 miles in a north-northeasterly direction the bay narrows 
 to about 4 miles at the entrance to its northerly arm, called Deadman 
 Bay. Lazy Bay is a good anchorage convenient to Cape Alitak, 
 
142 ALITAK BAY. 
 
 and there is a cannery in Olga Bay at the head of the northwest arm 
 of Alitak Bay. 
 
 The west side of Alitak Bay from Cape Alitak to the entrance of 
 the narrows leading to Olga Bay has been surveyed, although the 
 soundings are not sufficient to develop all dangers, especially in 
 the open waters of Alitak Bay. 
 
 There are no trees, the largest growth being scattered clumps of 
 alders. Except the beaches and the outcropping ledges of bare rock 
 on the knolls and peaks, the land is covered with thick moss and 
 grass; there are lakes in places and numerous streams. The promi- 
 nent feature in the approach is Twin Peaks, on the peninsula between 
 Lazy Bay and Kempff Bay, which can be seen from Cape Ikolik on 
 a clear day. The peninsula between Kempff Bay and Olga Bay is 
 broken by mountain masses rising to a height of about 2,000 feet. 
 
 The eastern shore of Alitak Bay consists of high bluffs, terminat- 
 ing in Cape Trinity. No sounding has been done. 
 
 Cape Alitak is the south end of a sloping ridge with numerous 
 knolls, which is partly grass covered but has much bare rock. The 
 cape "slopes upward gradually to Tanner Head, a rocky knoll about 
 600 feet nigh, between which and Twin Peaks there is a break formed 
 by Lazy Bay. 
 
 A shoal, apparently of sand and with a very uniform bottom, 
 extends from trie southeast side of Cape Alitak toward Cape Trinity ; 
 the 3-fathom curve on the shoal is about J^ mile from shore for a 
 distance of 1)^ miles northward of Cape Alitak, and the 5-fathom 
 curve is about 1% miles from shore. Heavy tide rips are frequent 
 off the cape. It is reported that this shoal extends across to Cape 
 Trinity; a depth of 7 fathoms was found on it at the limit of the sur- 
 vey, 2 miles southeastward from Cape Alitak, and a depth of 8 
 fathoms was reported by U. S. S. Ranger about 3 miles southeast- 
 ward of that cape. 
 
 Lazy Bay, lying 4 miles northward of Cape Alitak, is well marked 
 by Twin Peaks and Egg Island on its north side, and there is a bare, 
 white, flat ledge close to its south entrance point. The shore south- 
 ward of the entrance is clear if given a berth of % mile, with the 
 exception of the shoal making off the southeast side of Cape Alitak. 
 Approaching from northward in Alitak Bay, vessels can haul in for 
 the entrance when Egg Island bears 270 true (WSW mag.). 
 
 Entering in mid-channel, good anchorage for vessels can be had J/ 
 to % mile from the head of Lazy Bay, and midway between the sand- 
 spit on the north shore and a dark, bare rock on the south shore, in 
 7 to 9 fathoms, sticky bottom. A narrow ridge on which the least 
 depths found are 5 to 6 fathoms extends across Lazy Bay in a north- 
 northeasterly (mag.) direction from the rock (covered at three- 
 quarters flood), on the east side at the entrance to Rodman Reach. 
 A flat extends <^ mile from the head of the bay, and the shores at the 
 anchorage should not be approached closely. Water can be obtained 
 from a stream on the north shore just inside the spit. 
 
 Rodman Reach is a narrow arm which extends southward from 
 Lazy Bay and inside of Tanner Head to Cape Alitak, where it forms 
 a shoal basin from which another narrow arm extends some distance 
 northwestward, being separated from the sea by a narrow shingle 
 spit. The depths are 4 to 5 fathoms, hard bottom, in the channel 
 for a distance of J^ mile from the entrance, and a spit projects from 
 
ALITAK BAY. 143 
 
 its west side just inside the entrance; the channel of this part of the 
 reach might be used as an anchorage for small craft. No further 
 soundings are available. 
 
 Egg Island is a small rocky island about 15 feet high lying on the 
 north side at the entrance to Lazy Bay. The passage inside the 
 island is foul, and foul ground with rocks bare at low water extends 
 600 yards northward toward the rocky islet off the south side of 
 Kempff Bay. 
 
 Twin Peaks, between Lazy Bay and Kempff Bay, are about 1,000 
 feet high, and are the most conspicuous mark from westward as far 
 north as Cape Ikolik, being first raised as an island. 
 
 Kempff Bay, on the north side of Twin Peaks, has too deep water 
 for convenient anchorage, and its north shore has broken ground 
 which should be avoided. Favqring somewhat the south shore 
 through the bay, anchorage can be selected in the middle about % 
 mile from the head, in 18 fathoms; a spit with deep water close-to 
 extends 350 yards from the north shore at a point % mile from the 
 head. For the purpose probaKly of communicating with Akhiok, 
 small craft have used an anchorage in the middle of the first large 
 bight on the north side of Kempff Bay % mile above the small island 
 on the north side of the entrance; there is broken ground, which has 
 not been fully developed, making well off the shores of the bight. 
 
 A reef, covered at high water and with a rocky islet a few feet high 
 near its end, extends % mile from the shore just southward of Kempff 
 Bay; the islet should be given a berth of over % mile, passing east- 
 ward of it in Alitak Bay, and northward of it when entering Kempff 
 Bay. 
 
 Between Kempff Bay and Moser Bay, a distance of 4 miles, the 
 shore is fronted by islands and rocks about 1 mile wide, the shores of 
 which are fringed with reefs. Akhiok is a native village on the shore 
 1J4 miles north-northwestward of Round Hill. 
 
 Round Hill, about 180 feet high, is on the east end of the large 
 island forming the north side of Kempff Bay. It is a small symmetri- 
 cal grassy knoll, and is quite distinctive. An extensive reef, with a 
 few heads, which always show, extends J^ m ile off the east side of 
 the north end of the island at Round Hill. 
 
 The principal outlying dangers, so far as known, in Alitak Bay lie 
 eastward of the islands and rocks between Kempff Bay and Moser 
 Bay. They are in the form of long ridges trending with the bay, 
 the two on the west side lying nearly % mile and 1 J^ miles from the 
 islands and rocks on the west side; and the deepest and clearest chan- 
 nel in the bay lies between the second ridge and Middle Reef, the 
 latter being a third ridge. 
 
 The first ridge lies on a 33 true (N % E mag.) bearing to High 
 Rock, and the following are the shoaler places determined on it; it 
 should not be crossed except with caution. 
 
 A 12-fathom sounding, not developed, lies 95 true (ENE % E 
 mag.) from the south Twin Peak and 1^ miles 179 true (SSE }| E 
 mag.) from Round Hill; it is apparently the south end of the first 
 ridge. 
 
 A reef, covered at highest tides, lies % mile 136 true (ESE'mag.) 
 from Round Hill, with foul ground between. 
 
 A reef, J mile long on the line of the ridge, partly bare at low water 
 and marked by kelp, lies % mile off the island northward of Round 
 
144 ALITAK BAY. 
 
 Hill, with foul ground between, and lies between the bearings 93 
 true (ENE J E mag.) and 73 true (NE % E mag.) from Round 
 Hill. 
 
 A 9-fathom sounding, not developed, lies % mile northward of the 
 preceding reef, about the same distance from the nearest island west- 
 ward, and bears 175 true (SSE J^ E mag.) from the northeast end 
 of the island on the south side of the entrance to Moser Bay; it is 
 apparently the north end of the first ridge. 
 
 The least depth found on the second ridge is a 10-fathom sounding 
 which lies 1% miles 143 true (SE by E % E mag.) from Round Hill. 
 Other soundings on this ridge are 14 fathoms J/ mile southward, and 
 16 fathoms Y% mile northward, of the 10-fathom sounding, with no 
 development. 
 
 Middle Reef, about % mile long and covered at about half tide, lies 
 3^ miles 100 true (ENE y% E mag.) from Round Hill; a rock bare 
 at low water lies Y^ mile eastward of Middle Reef. Broken ground 
 which has not been developed extends 1 mile northeastward and 2 
 miles southward from Middle Reef; a rock, bare at a good low water 
 and not located, was seen well southward of Middle Reef, possibly as 
 much as 1 mile. 
 
 Deadman Bay, the northerly arm of Alitak Bay eastward of Moser 
 Bay, is not surveyed. On its western side is a flat island about 40 
 feet high, and there are some islets and rocks between it and the 
 western shore. The peninsula between Deadman Bay and Moser Bay 
 is a high grassy ridge with a number of summits, and it slopes gradually 
 southward. 
 
 High Rock is a steep-sided, flat islet, with grass on top and a split 
 in the middle, which lies 200 yards off the southeast end of the penin- 
 sula between Deadman and Moser Bays. From southward it shows 
 as a small bluff against the low shore northward. A kelp-marked 
 reef, partly bare at low water, extends y% mile southward from High 
 Rock. Another reef, partly bare at low water, lies y% mile eastward 
 of High Rock. 
 
 Moser Bay, the large northwest arm of Alitak Bay, has depths of 
 10 to 14 fathoms, soft bottom, and is a secure harbor. The entrance 
 is nearly J/2 m il e wide between a sand spit on the north and a low 
 rocky island on the south. It is obstructed by a rocky shoal which 
 extends northward from the island, the northerly end of the shoal 
 with depths of 3 to 4 fathoms, lying 300 to 600 yards westward of the 
 sand spit. There is less depth on the shoal for one-half the width of 
 the entrance from the island, and little depth near the island. The 
 deepest channel (over 5 fathoms) lies 100 to 250 yards off the west 
 side of the sand spit. From the sand spit eastward toward High 
 Rock the 3-fathom curve is about 250 yards from shore. A kelp- 
 marked reef also extends J^ mile eastward from the island on the 
 south side at the entrance to Moser Bay. 
 
 The tidal currents are strong with swirls in the entrance of Moser 
 Bay, and rips occur at times with a fresh wind opposing the current; 
 but these rips do not compare in magnitude with the heavy ones 
 which occur in Sitkinak Strait and off the mouth of Alitak Bay. 
 
 About one-half the distance from the entrance of Moser Bay to 
 Point Fassett there is a shoal or reef which extends halfway across 
 from the northeast shore of Moser Bay toward a spit on the southwest 
 
ALITAK BAY. 145 
 
 shore. The shoal has depths of 4 to 9 feet on it for a distance of y% 
 mile from shore, and a depth of 3 fathoms was found on its outer part. 
 
 A shoal bare at low water extends J4 m il er-st-northeastward from 
 a spit on the southwest shore opposite the preceding shoal. 
 
 Point Fassett, a low grassy head with lower land back of it, is the 
 turning point on the northeast side of Moser Bay nearly 2 miles inside 
 the entrance. A shoal makes off from the eastern shore between 
 Point Fassett and the Narrows, the greatest distance being J4 mile 
 in the bight between them and extending with this width nearly to 
 the Narrows. 
 
 Snug Harbor, the cove southwestward of Point Fassett, has a depth 
 of about 12 fathoms in the entrance and shoals gradually westward. 
 It is clear with the exception of a flat which extends nearly J4 m il e 
 from its head. A valley between mountains extends through from 
 Snug Harbor to the sea. 
 
 Chips Cove, on the west shore of Moser Bay 1 J^ miles northward of 
 Point Fassett, has a depth of about 8 fathoms in its entrance. Shoals 
 extend from the shores of the cove, and a flat extends about y% mile 
 from its head. Vessels can anchor off the entrance, favoring slightly 
 the western shore of Moser Bay, and a small vessel and small craft can 
 select anchorage near the middle of the cove. 
 
 The Narrows. About 1 mile northward of Chips Cove is the south 
 entrance to the Narrows which leads to Olga Bay. They are about 1 
 mile long and in the narrowest part about 300 feet wide. The channel 
 is tortuous with many rocks, some bare at low water and others which 
 are only apparent by the heavy swirls over them when the current is 
 running. The small cannery steamers use the Narrows, but local 
 knowledge is necessary and a large vessel should not attempt it. 
 With the current running full the cannery steamers wait for slack 
 water, which occurs 2 hours after high and low water at Snug Harbor. 
 The current at its greatest velocity probably reaches 8 knots. It is 
 said that 3J/2 fathoms can be carried through the channel at low water, 
 but this statement should be received with caution. 
 
 Olga Bay is an irregularly shaped^ body of water, 17 to 18 miles long 
 and 1/2 mile to 2 miles wide. The western end is the largest and is 
 separated from the sea, about 6 miles northward of Low Cape, by a 
 strip of low land only ^ mile wide. The bay has the appearance of a 
 lake, and the rise and fall of tide varies from 1 to 2 feet at the cannery, 
 which is at the entrance of the stream on the north shore about 10 
 miles northwestward of the Narrows. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, ALITAK BAY. 
 
 Approaching through Sitkinak Strait, note the description of the 
 strait preceding. Approaching from northwestward, courses are 
 given in the description of the coast preceding. 
 
 From southwestward. U. S. S. Hanger passed 8 miles off the north- 
 west shore of Tugidak Island on a 43 true (N by E % E mag.) course, 
 with soundings of 15 to 20 fathoms over an even bottom of sand and 
 gravel. When the north end of the higher part of Tugidak bore 
 166 true (SE % S mag.), distant 9 miles, 27 fathoms was found, 
 broken shell bottom. The course was then changed to 76 true 
 (NE % E mag.), and the water suddenly deepened from 32 fathoms 
 31056 16 10 
 
146 ALITAK BAY. 
 
 to 42 fathoms, rocky bottom. This depth was carried with the same 
 character of bottom until Cape Alitak bore 355 true (NNW Y^ W 
 mag.), distant 3% miles, when 29 fathoms, gray sand and shell, was 
 found. The water then shoaled quickly and the ship anchored in 9 
 fathoms, with Cape Alitak bearing 318 true (NW by W % W mag.), 
 distant 3 miles. 
 
 The shoal across the entrance to Alitak Bay is described in the 
 paragraph following Cape Alitak, preceding. Passing 2 miles east- 
 southeastward of the cape should lead across the shoal in a least depth 
 of 6 to 7 fathoms. The principal shoals, so far as known, in Alitak 
 Bay are in long ridges trending with the bay and lie abreast the islands 
 and rocks between Kempff Bay and Moser Bay, as described in the 
 paragraphs following Round Hill, and including Middle Reef. The 
 following courses lead in the best water, as determined by the survey: 
 
 With Cape Alitak bearing 315 true (WNW mag.), distant 2 miles, 
 steer 45 true (NNE mag.) for 7 miles to a position with a reef covered 
 at high water in range with Round Hill, bearing on the port beam, the 
 reef distant 1J4 miles and the hill distant 2J^ miles. 
 
 Then steer 15 true (N % W mag.) for 3 miles, heading for High 
 Rock, until 1 mile from it, and then steer 338 true (NW mag.) and 
 pass 200 to 300 yards southwestward of the sandspit on the north 
 side at the entrance to Moser Bay. 
 
 When the sandspit is well abaft the beam, haul westward for the 
 south side of Snug Harbor, which will lead southward of the shoal 
 making off from the north shore, 1 mile westward of the entrance ; a 
 320 true (NW by W ^ W mag.) course, with the south point at the 
 entrance to Moser Bay astern, will lead midway between the shoal 
 and the end of the spit on the south shore. Above the shoal there 
 are no dangers, but the west shore should be favored somewhat from 
 Point Fassett to the entrance of Chips Cove. 
 
 CHIRIKOF ISLAND (CHARTS 8881, 9196), 
 
 lies about 60 miles south-south westward of the Trinity Islands. The 
 southern part of the island has bold, high peaks and bluffs, from which 
 it gradually slopes to the north end, terminating in a low, green, un- 
 dulating country. There is an islet near the southeast end. The 
 island is easily recognized at night unless fog-covered. 
 
 Anchorage may be found hi the bight at the southwest corner 
 (Southwest Anchorage, chart 9196), at the mouth of the stream and 
 opposite the houses; or in 10 fathoms on the west side off the bluff 
 just south of the stream, possibly 2 miles from the northwest point. 
 There is foul ground between Chirikof Island and the islets west of it. 
 These islets are known as Nagai Rocks; the largest, Round Rock, 
 appears like a haystack. 
 
 A shoal is reported to extend from the east side near the middle of 
 the island; the Albatross reported breakers 3 miles 114 true (E % 
 S mag.) from the middle of the island. A breaker is reported in an 
 estimated position 4 miles east-southeastward from the southeast 
 point of the island. A shoal with kelp is reported to extend about 1 
 mile westward from the northwest point of the island. 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA. 147 
 
 SEMIDI ISLANDS (CHART 8881), 
 
 consisting of two large and seven small islands, are 1,200 to 1,500 
 feet high with bold shores and may be safely approached as the sound- 
 ings are deep. There are strong tidal currents among the islands, 
 which form bad tide rips in the channels and off the points. The 
 breaker shown southwestward of Chowiet Island is reported by some 
 navigators to lie much closer in than charted. 
 
 Small sealing schooners formerly anchored in the coves at the 
 southwest end, east side, and in both coves in the bight on the north- 
 west side of Chowiet Island; on the south side of Kateekuk Island, 
 and on the east side, near the north end, of Aghiyuk Island. Vessels 
 of the Coast Guard have reported that the anchorages on the east 
 side near the north end, and on the northwest side of Chowiet Island 
 are available shelters in westerly and easterly gales, respectively. 
 
 Lighthouse Rocks, lying about 30 miles southwestward of Chowiet 
 Island, consist of several detached, barren rocks, occupying an area 
 about J mile in diameter. The'largest rock is 500 feet long and 90 
 feet high. They can be approached as close as % mile with safety. 
 There is a large sea-lion rookery on the rocks. 
 
 Currents. Between Sitkinak and Chirikof Islands the general set 
 of the current is reported to be about 249 true (SW J/g W mag.), 
 0.5 knot. There is a current between Chirikof Island and Lighthouse 
 Rocks, with a southerly set, less than 0.5 knot. From Lighthouse 
 Rocks to Kupreanof Point the current sets generally 260 true (SW 
 by W M W mag.) and varies from 0.3 to 0.7 knot. 
 
 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 General Remarks. The south coast of the Alaska Peninsula, from 
 Cape Douglas to Cape Pankof, has a length of about 425 miles. It is 
 irregular and greatly broken by numerous indentations affording 
 anchorages. Many of its points are rugged cliffs of great height 
 which can not be approached too closely on account of reefs at the 
 bases of them, while others are lo\v with more or less shoal water off 
 them. 
 
 The mountains on the peninsula are high, irregular and bold, and 
 many of the peaks reach heights of 2,000 to 9,000 feet. 
 
 Pavlof Volcano, the most prominent of several on the peninsula, is 
 about 9,000 feet high, lies on the west side of Pavlof Bay, and has 
 three peaks lying in a general north and south line, the middle one 
 being the highest. These peaks are very symmetrical. Smoke is 
 frequently seen issuing from the central one. 
 
 Frosty Peak, a noticeable snow-capped mountain near the south- 
 west end of the peninsula, is 5,800 feet high; it is not very regular 
 in outline and has several peaks, one of which, however, rises above 
 the others. 
 
 Many lakes and sizable streams are found inland and there are 
 several portages across the peninsula and between the adjacent bays. 
 
 Many settlements, canneries, and fishing stations are scattered 
 along the coast and among the off-lying islands. 
 
 There are numerous off-lying islands and groups of islands with 
 navigable passages between, and good harbors on their coasts. 
 
148 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 The weather along the Alaska Peninsula is moist and cool through- 
 out the year. Rain and snow falls are excessive and there are long 
 periods of rainy, moist, and cloudy weather. Snow may fall at the 
 water level until June and on the peaks until late in the summer. 
 It extends far down the slopes at the close of September and may 
 be expected at the water level early in October. Fog and mist may 
 be expected at any time from spring until fall and often last for 
 several days. 
 
 Fog. No really thick fog was met with in 1913 and 1914, although 
 the surveying vessel was moving actively about in all parts of the 
 region during both seasons. It proved possible to navigate safely 
 at all times, although misty and moderately thick weather fre- 
 quently prevailed. Kupreanof Point and Cape Pankof are often 
 enveloped in fog banks, and occasionally in dense fog. 
 
 Winds. There are no prevailing winds. In the early part of the 
 summer southerly winds are more frequent, in mid-summer southeast 
 winds, and in October and November northerly winds. All winds 
 bring mist and rain except west-southwest to north, an on-shore 
 wind brings mist and rain, and an off-shore wind clearing weather. 
 The mist and fog are thicker on the weather side of the land, and lift 
 to leeward. Thus a landfall may almost always be made on the lee 
 side of the land. 
 
 The tidal currents are weak, probably never exceeding 1 % knots. 
 There is a continuous current westward along the mainland, which 
 becomes stronger on the approach of a northeast storm, and is 
 often the best warning of such a storm. Westerly winds weaken 
 the current. The barometer indicates that some storms reach this 
 coast from the south or southeast, while others are typical cyclonic 
 storms approaching from the west. 
 
 Kelp. The navigator can not rely on seeing kelp on rocks and 
 shoals; many rocks and gravel banks bear no kelp, especially early 
 or late in the summer. Many others have only a light growth of 
 thin ribbon kelp which can not be seen until the vessel's stem enters 
 it, and which is often drawn under by a current or sea. 
 
 Commerce. There is only one small steamer which makes regular 
 trips along this coast. Stops are made regularly at the post offices 
 at Chignik, Unga, Sand Point, Belkofski, and Kings Cove; stops 
 are made at other places on payment of a bonus. Many other 
 irregular vessels use the south Alaska Peninsula passage, however, 
 in voyages between southeast Alaska and Bering Sea. 
 
 Local attraction has been reported in the vicinity of Arch Point, 
 in the passage between Dolgoi and Goloi Islands, and off Kings Cove. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, CAPE IKTI TO CAPE KALEKTA. 
 
 For a vessel bound westward along the south coast of the Alaska 
 Peninsula there exists an inside passage from Mitrofania Island to 
 Cape Pankof, 195 miles in length, measured along the usual steamer 
 tracks. This passage is used entirely or in part by the majority 
 of vessels navigating between these points. While it has been by 
 no means completely surveyed, many soundings have been taken 
 upon it and the points of departure have been accurately located. 
 A careful navigator may safely follow it except with a vessel of the 
 deepest draft, if he observes the directions given. However, a 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA DIRECTIONS. 149 
 
 large vessel of good power would undoubtedly find it better to keep 
 to the open sea; while a vessel of 2,000 tons or less would probably 
 be favored more by the shelter of the islands and numerous harbors. 
 The passage is exposed at several places to the open sea, but for 
 the greater part of the way is effectively protected by islands and 
 reefs. 
 
 The channels have no characteristic formation or direction; the 
 depth is less than 100 fathoms at all points, and the bottom is 
 extremely irregular and rocky in most places. At several critical 
 points a good location may be obtained with a hand lead. Many 
 of the points of departure are rugged cliffs of great height, which 
 can not, however, be approached too closely on account of reefs at 
 the bases of them; while others are low sand points with more or 
 less shoal water off them. The passage follows the mainland coast 
 almost invariably, passing inside of almost all of the islands. 
 
 The islands are 1,200 to 2,000 feet high, while the mainland has 
 peaks near the sea 2,000 to 8,000 feet high. The land has no timber 
 whatever upon it, but in the months of July and August bears a 
 heavy growth of grass. The snow line in these months is at about 
 2,500 feet elevation. 
 
 Cape Ikti to Kupreanof Point. The following courses are recom- 
 mended because lines of soundings have beea run upon them, which 
 would indicate that they are safe. 
 
 Pass 1.6 miles off Cape Ikti and steer 252 true (SW ^ W mag.) 
 for 6.5 miles, with the north end of Mitrofania Island ahead. When 
 the southeastern point of Mitrofania Peninsula is abeam, 1.5 miles 
 distant, steer 285 true (W % S mag.) 7.3 miles, for the river mouth, 
 which is near the foot of the hills northeastward of Long Beach. 
 Run % mile after the west ends of Little Brother Island and Mitro- 
 fania Island are in range, and when Long Beach is 0.9 miles distant 
 steer 195 true (S % E mag.) for 3.1 miles and pass 0.9 mile off the 
 next point, passing midway between Little Brother Island and the 
 mainland, and heading about 1 mile to westward of Mitrofania 
 Island. Then steer 242 true (SW Y S mag.) for 4.6 miles, heading 
 for the south part of Chiachi Island, and passing 1 mile off Coal 
 Cape. 
 
 With Coal Cape bearing true (N by W % Wmag.) 1 mile distant, 
 steer 301 true (W by N mag.) for 3.6 miles, heading for Perry village. 
 When the west tangent of Shapka Island is abeam, 1 mile distant, 
 and closed on Chiachi Island, steer 236 true (SW % S mag.) for 10.7 
 miles, passing midway between Three Star Point and Chiachi Island; 
 on this course pass 0.2 mile off Paul Island, nearer to it than to Egg 
 Island, and avoid the reef which extends from Egg Island; there is 
 7 fathoms, gravel bottom, abreast of Egg Island on this course, and 
 the tangent of Alexander Point is right ahead. When past Paul 
 Island, with the west tangent of it abeam, steer 204 true (S ^ W 
 mag.) for 16.2 miles, passing 0.7 mile eastward of Leader Island, 
 1.2 miles eastward of Fox Cape, and 1 mile off Kupreanof Point. 
 
 To enter Kupreanof Harbor, steer 90 true (ENE ^ E mag.) 
 through the middle of the westerly entrance, and when the northern 
 point at the entrance is abeam 0.3 mile distant steer 45 true (NNE 
 % E mag.), with the peak of Paul Island ahead and Leader Island in 
 range with the tangent of Jacob Island astern. When the east 
 entrance between Paul and Jacob Islands is about to open, anchor in 
 
150 ALASKA PENINSULA DIRECTIONS. 
 
 10 fathoms with the two points of this eastern entrance in range. 
 This is the best harbor in this part of the peninsula. 
 
 Kupreanof Point to Unga Strait. From a position 1 mile south- 
 southeastward of Kupreanof Point steer 267 true (WSW mag.) for 
 15.4 miles to a position 1 mile north-northwestward of Karpa Island; 
 then steer 248 true (SW % W mag.) for 18.2 miles to Cape Swedania, 
 bearing true (N by W % W mag.), distant 3 miles. From here 
 steer 270 true (WSW M W mag.) for 6.7 miles, passing 0.9 mile off 
 Gull Island, to Unga Strait, with the low sandy point on Unga Island 
 abeam 0.9 mile distant. Soundings were made upon these courses, 
 and they appear safe. 
 
 A rock (E. D.) has been charted northward of Karpa Island, and 
 there is undoubtedly broken bottom northward of Korovin Island, 
 although of greater depth than pinnacles are generally found in. 
 Therefore most vessels steer 238 true (SW y% S mag.) for 22 miles 
 from Kupreanof Point abeam to the middle of Gorman Strait; then 
 round Cape Devine, and with it bearing 333 true (NW ^ W mag.), 
 1.4 miles distant, steer 280 true (W % S mag.) for 6.5 miles to 
 Korovin Strait; then with High Island abeam, 0.9 mile distant, steer 
 290 true (W Y% N mag.) for 8.2 miles to the above position off Cape 
 Swedania, and follow trie directions in the preceding paragraph. 
 
 A portion of this track has already been surveyed, and it is for that 
 reason safer; but Gorman Strait is a poor mark in bad weather; there 
 are dangerous rocks on both sides of it, and there are variable currents 
 across the course from Kupreanof Point. Therefore some navigators 
 might be led to choose the shorter and easier route, hence directions 
 are given for it. 
 
 Gorman Strait to Unga. From a position in the middle of Gorman 
 Strait, a 220 true (S by W % W mag.) course for 10 miles leads 1 
 mile east-southeastward of Popof Head. If bound to Sand Point, 
 round Popof Head at a distance of 1 mile ; then follow the directions 
 for entering Popof Strait from eastward. If bound to Unga, steer 
 235 true (SW % S mag.) for 6.6 miles to Halfway Rock bearing 
 true (N by W % W mag.), distant % mile; then follow the directions 
 for entering Delarof Harbor. 
 
 With Cape Swedania bearing true (N by W % W mag.), distant 
 3 miles, steer 270 true (WSW % W mag.) for 6.7 miles, passing 0.9 
 mile off Gull Island, to Unga Strait, with the low sandy point on 
 Unga Island abeam 0.9 mile distant. 
 
 To pass through West Nagai Strait. From a position with Kup- 
 reanof Point bearing 294 true (W % N mag.), distant 1 mile, steer 
 220 true (S by W % W mag.) for 24 miles to a position 1 mile 130 
 true (ESE J/ E mag.) from the south point of the southeast island of 
 the Haystacks. If bound to Unga, change to 251 true (SW % W 
 mag.) for 16.4 miles to a position % mile 180 true (S.by E % E mag.) 
 from Halfway Rock; then follow directions for entering Delarof 
 Harbor. 
 
 If bound to Sand Point. From the position 1 mile 130 true 
 (ESE J/g E mag.) from the southeast island of the Haystacks, steer 
 261 true (SW by W Y 2 W mag.) for 11.4 miles to a position 1 mile 
 southward of Popof Head; then follow directions for entering Popof 
 Strait from the eastward. 
 
 Unga Strait to Arch Point. From the position in Unga Strait, 0.9 
 mile true (N by W % W mag.) from the low sandy point on Unga 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA DIRECTIONS. 151 
 
 Island, steer 246 true (SW Y% W mag.) for 15.8 miles, with Cape 
 Swedania astern, to Jude Island abeam, distant 3.4 miles. Then 
 steer 270 true (WSW M W mag.) for 13 miles, passing 1.8 miles off 
 the point east of Hair Seal Cape, -the same distance off Moses Rock, 
 to a position with the west tangent of Cape Tolstoi abeam 3.6 miles 
 distant. Then steer 241 true (SW % S mag.) for 15.8 miles to pass 
 1^2 miles off Ukolnoi Island, and 0.4 mile off and 1 mile beyond 
 Arch Point. 
 
 There is a 5%-fathom shoal 0.8 mile off Arch Point; and about 
 halfway between Arch Point and Dolgoi Island is a shoal with 1 1 feet. 
 Arch Point has deep water close- to. 
 
 If desired, one may leave the same point of departure in Unga 
 Strait and steer 253 true (SW % W mag.) for 33.9 miles to the north- 
 west point of Ukolnoi Island abeam, 0.8 mile distant; then steer 245 
 true (SW > W mag.) for 8.9 miles to pass the same distance off Arch 
 Point. This course passes 0.9 mile off shore on approaching Hair 
 Seal Cape. At the point of departure in Unga Strait the depth is 
 24 fathoms, increasing to 60 fathoms off Beaver Bay; a few miles 
 farther the depth decreases to 10 fathoms, and approaching Hair 
 Seal Cape it increases again to 15 fathoms. From Cape Tolstoi 
 south westward, and off Ukolnoi Island, the depth is 50 to 60 fathoms. 
 
 Arch Point to Stag Point. From a position 1 mile southwestward 
 from Arch Point steer 180 true (S by E ^ E mag.) for 4 miles with 
 the sand spit at the northwest end of Goloi Island in range with the 
 middle of Iliasik Strait, until the sand spit at the easterly end of 
 Moss Cape is a little abaft the beam, 0.6 mile distant. Then steer 
 207 true (S % W mag.) for 0.9 mile, heading for the northwest point 
 of Inner Iliasik Island, avoiding a kelp-marked shoal which extends 
 about 0.4 mile from shore on the south side of the sand spit at the 
 easterly end of Moss Cape, and passing 0.4 mile westward of the 
 sand spit at the northwest end of Gploi Island. Rocks extend 400 
 yards off the southwest side of Goloi Island at a distance of ^ mile 
 southeastward of the spit. 
 
 Then steer 168 true (SSE % E mag.) for 4.4 miles with the end of 
 the sand spit at the east end of Moss Cape astern and the highest point 
 of the ridge across the north end of Outer Iliasik Island ahead, to a 
 point opposite the middle of Iliasik Strait. Approaching Iliasik 
 Strait, rocks lying 0.3 mile southwestward of the northwest part of 
 Outer Iliasik appear to be in mid-channel, but as the course is con- 
 tinued the channel opens out north of them. Open out the channel 
 well before passing through from either side. The best course is 
 about south-southwest (mag.) through the middle of the strait, with 
 the north point of the entrance to Dolgoi Harbor astern. The strait 
 is 1.1 miles wide and has a clear width of nearly ^ mile. A partly 
 bare reef extends 0.3 mile off the northwest side of the strait, and a 
 shelving shoal extends 0.4 mile off the sand spit at the northwest end 
 of Outer Iliasik Island. 
 
 From Iliasik Strait steer 263 true (SW by W % W mag.) for 13.3 
 miles, passing % mile south of Cape Bold and % mile north and 0.3 
 mile beyond Stag Point, with the north tangent of Outer Iliasik 
 astern. From Iliasik Strait to Stag Point there is from 10 to 50 
 fathoms. 
 
 Stag Point to Cape Pankof. Then steer 244 true (SW mag.) for 
 5.1 miles to a point y 2 mile off the northwest point of Fox Island and 
 
152 ALASKA PENINSULA DIRECTIONS. 
 
 with a stern range on a large rock a few yards off Cape Bold. Then 
 steer 229 true (SSW % W mag.) for 13 % miles to Umga Island % 
 mile abeam to southward. There is a 3-fathom shoal 3 miles 247 
 true (SW ^g W mag.) from West Cape, Deer Island; the course passes 
 J mile northward of it. After passing Fox Island the bottom shoals 
 to 6 fathoms over the bar off Thin Point, and then deepens to 30 
 fathoms near Umga Island. (See the description of the shoal extending 
 from Thin Point to Deer Island on p. 187.) 
 
 Then steer 226 true (SSW ^ W mag.) for 14.2 miles, which should 
 lead to a position \Y^ miles 136 true (SE by E J^ E mag.) from Cape 
 Pankof. On this course Pankof Breaker should be left 2^ miles on 
 the starboard hand. 
 
 Cape Pankof through Unimak Pass to Cape Kalekta, From a posi- 
 tion \y<i miles 136 true (SE by E J^ E mag.) of Cape Pankof make 
 good a 253 true (SW % W mag.) course. The southernmost pinna- 
 cle rock at Cape Lazaref should be left about 3J4 miles on the star- 
 board hand, and the coast of the southern end of Unimak Island 
 should be given a berth of about 2 miles. This course made good for 
 58 miles should lead to a position with Seal Cape on the starboard 
 beam distant 2J^ miles. 
 
 When crossing Unimak Pass the tidal current with a maximum 
 velocity at strength of about 4 knots will be on the bow or quarter, 
 and allowance must be made for it to make the course good (see 
 p. 197). 
 
 From a position 2J^ miles southeastward of Seal Cape make good 
 a 268 true (WSW J4 W mag.) course for 36 miles, which should lead 
 to a position 2 miles north-northwestward from Akun Head. The 
 course should lead 2 miles northward of the eastern headland at the 
 north end of Akun Island when 5 miles from Akun Head. 
 
 From a position 2 miles north-northwestward from Akun Head 
 make good a 249 true (SW % W mag.) course for 14 miles to a posi- 
 tion with the western head at the north end of Akutan Island bearing 
 141 true (SE by E mag.) distant 2 miles. 
 
 From this position make good a 224 true (SSW % W mag.) course 
 for 18 y^ miles, which should lead to a position about 1 mile north- 
 westward of Cape Kalekta. In crossing from Akutan Island to Cape 
 Kalekta care should be taken not to be set off the course by the tidal 
 currents setting to or from Akutan and Unalga Passes. 
 
 SHAW ISLAND TO TAKLI ISLAND. 
 
 Shaw Island lies 10 miles northwestward from Cape Douglas and 
 1% miles from shore. It is % mile long, about 50 feet high, flat 
 and grass covered. A depth of 12 fathoms was found midway 
 between it and the shore. Ledges extend northwestward from 
 the island to a greatest distance of % mile from its northern end. 
 
 The two bluff points 1% miles southward and 5 miles southeast- 
 ward of Shaw Island are the ends of two sharp, rocky ridges extend- 
 ing from the high land of Mount Douglas. Anchorage can be had 
 in the bight between the points in 13 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom, 
 with shelter from southerly and westerly winds, but the williwaws 
 are bad during westerly gales. At the head of the bight is a short 
 valley with a glacier. Just clear of the bluff point at the southeast 
 
SHAW ISLAND TO TAKLI ISLAND. 153 
 
 end of the bight is a pinnacle rock about as high as the bluff. The 
 bight southeastward of this last point appears shoal. 
 
 Sukoi Bay, on the north side of Cape Douglas, is shoal and can 
 be used only by small craft with local knowledge. There are locks 
 bare at low water in the middle of the entrance, and a ledge bare 
 at low water between the rocks and the south shore. 
 
 Cape Douglas is a grassy peninsula about 3 miles long and 190 
 feet high. At its western end it breaks off in a bluff to a low, nar- 
 row neck which connects it to the mainland. Rocks bare at low 
 water extend about J/ mile eastward from the cape. 
 
 The bight south of the neck back of Cape Douglas is an anchorage 
 sheltered from northerly and westerly winds. There is some shelter 
 from northeasterly winds, but if heavy, some swell rolls around 
 the point. A stream enters the northeast end of the bight at the 
 foot of the bluff, and this part of the bight is dry at low water nearly 
 out to the southwest end of Cape Douglas. The anchorage is in 
 the middle of the bight, with the two points on the south side of 
 Cape Douglas in range, bearing 114 true (E mag.), in 6 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom. 
 
 Douglas Reef, lying 5J^ miles 187 true (S by E ^ E mag.) from 
 Cape Douglas, is about 2 miles long north and south. The reef is 
 partly bare at low water, and near its middle is a rock 28 feet high. 
 A sounding of 6% fathoms with 40 to 60 fathoms close- to was found 
 
 1 mile 81 true (NE by E mag.) from the rock, and vessels should 
 not approach it closer. 
 
 Two rocks, close together and awash at high water, lie 2% miles 
 southwestward of Douglas Reef and \y% miles from shore. A reef 
 bare at low water extends about % mile southeastward from them. 
 
 About 10 miles southward of Cape Douglas is a point marked 
 by a hill 673 feet high. There is a small glacier in the valley south 
 of the point. Lying 1^ miles from the point and 168 true (SE % 
 S mag.) from the hifl there is a rock awash at about half tide. There 
 is no kelp on the rock, and the sea seldom breaks on it when it is 
 covered. 
 
 Two kelp patches lie about 1J^ miles southward of the preceding 
 rock and the same distance from shore. The kelp shows well at 
 low water only, and the sea seldom breaks on the rocks. The eastern 
 patch lies 193 true (S by E mag.) from the hill mentioned in the 
 preceding paragraph. 
 
 Kiukpalik Island lies 17^ miles southward of Cape Douglas and 
 
 2 miles from shore. It is 1% miles long, 155 feet high, nearly level 
 and grass covered. A shoal scantily marked by kelp lies about % 
 mile 339 true (NW mag.) from the north end of the island, and 
 there is no safe channel between them. A temporary anchorage 
 with shelter from easterly winds may be had in the bight on the 
 west side near the south end of the island, in 8 or 9 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom. The shore of the mainland inside the island should be 
 avoided, as there is a possibility of shoals on that side. 
 
 Shakun Rock, a prominent, dark pinnacle 50 feet high, lies 5 
 miles 232 true (SSW Y 2 W mag.) from Kiukpalik Island. From 
 the rock a semicircular reef, partly bare at low water, extends south- 
 ward and westward to the south end of a chain of grass-covered 
 islets. There is foul ground between Shakun Rock and the islets, 
 
154 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 and the latter are apparently connected with the shore northwest- 
 ward by a reef. 
 
 Swikshak Bay is a lagoon which is practically closed at all stages 
 of the tide. The entrance lies at the west end and is about 200 
 feet wide. 
 
 Kaguyak is a village behind a large, bare rock which is connected 
 to the beach at low water. Approaching from southeastward, a ves- 
 sel of the Coast Guard Service anchored in about 7 fathoms, hard 
 sand bottom, with Cape Chiniak bearing 205 true (S y% W mag.), 
 Shakun Rock 86 true (NE by E J^ E mag.), and the settlement rock 
 346 true (NW % N mag.). Between Cape Chiniak and Shakun 
 Rock the bottom was found to be uneven, depths 10 to 20 fathoms, 
 mud and hard sand at intervals. 
 
 Cape Chiniak, the north point of Hallo Bay, lies 7J^ miles north- 
 ward of Cape Nukshak. There is a high hill near its end. 
 
 Hallo Bay has not been examined except near Cape Nukshak. 
 Ninagiak Island, in Hallo Bay, has a knob with an estimated height 
 of 200 feet. A rock bare at low water lies approximately % mile 
 eastward of the island. 
 
 A reef, about 1 J^ miles long east and west, lies in Hallo Bay approx- 
 imately 13/2 miles southeastward of Ninagiak Island and 1% miles 
 northward of Cape Nukshak. The reef is bare in places at low water, 
 is covered at high water, and has no kelp. 
 
 Cape Nukshak terminates in an island J^ mile long and 134 feet 
 high, with two knolls. The cape is flat and grass covered to the foot 
 of a sharp, prominent peak, but there is a break through the flat part 
 of the cape forming a second island at high water. 
 
 Anchorage, sheltered from southerly and westerly winds, may be 
 had about 400 yards off the north side of Cape Nukshak, with the 
 foot of the eastern slope of the peak on the cape bearing 203 true 
 (S mag.), in 22 fathoms, muddy bottom. 
 
 From Cape Nukshak to the entrance of Kukak Bay the coast is 
 irregular cliffs, with detached rocks showing some distance off. A 
 reef, partly bare at low water and marked by kelp, extends nearly 1 
 mile from shore 1J^ miles southward of Cape Nukshak. 
 
 Kukak Bay is not surveyed, but a fair general idea of it is shown on 
 chart 8851 taken from Russian charts. It is clear in mid-channel 
 and easily entered. There is a stream in the valley on the west side 
 about halfway up the bay, and a flat makes out possibly 300 yards 
 from its mouth. From the valley at the southwest end of the head 
 of the bay a flat makes out to an estimated distance of J^ mile, with 
 deep water close-to. The bay has great depth, there are numerous 
 pinnacle rocks near the steep shores, and the anchorage area is limited. 
 
 On the east side of the bay are two islands, Aguligik in its northern 
 
 Eart and Aguchik in its southern part. The best anchorage in the 
 ay is apparently in the bight south of Aguchik Island, where the 
 depth is 30 fathoms in the middle, shoaling gradually northeastward 
 toward its head. No dangers were noted in the bight, but it was 
 observed at high water only. 
 
 Cape Ugyak lies 8 miles southward of Cape Nukshak and 4 miles 
 northward of Cape Gull. It is the east end of the mountainous 
 peninsula south and east of Kukak Bay. There are some bare rocks 
 close to the cape, and a breaker was seen at low water about in the 
 
SHAW ISLAND TO TAKLl ISLAND. 155 
 
 position of the sunken rock on the chart, 1% miles northwestward of 
 the cape. 
 
 Kaflia Bay, between Capes Ugyak and Gull, has a narrow entrance, 
 reported to be bare at low water. In the narrow entrance is an islet, 
 The channel is south of the islet, apparently on either side of a rock 
 bare at low water. The bay has two small basins, with 20 to 35 fath- 
 oms in the middle of each, joined by a very narrow channel. It is 
 used by the small boats of the canneries. 
 
 Cape Gull is a bold headland, terminating in a cliff 503 feet high. 
 Temporary anchorage can be had in the middle of the entrance to the 
 cove on the south side of the cape, in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. The 
 south point of the cove is marked by a rocky islet about 15 feet high. 
 
 Cape Kuliak rises gradually from a crumbling bluff at the end to 
 high mountains inland . 
 
 Between Capes Kuliak and Atushagvik is an open bay nearly 4 
 miles long, which has not been sounded. A bare rock lies 300 yards 
 off a prominent point on the north shore. A rock bare at low water 
 lies 600 yards southeastward from the point, and another lies Y^ mile 
 westward from the point, and % mile from the northern shore. 
 
 Cape Atushagvik lies 4*4 miles 225 true (SSW mag.) from Cape 
 Kuliak. It has a low bluff at the water, and rises in a gentle slope 
 to a prominent knoll, 900 feet high, with a decided saddle between it 
 and the higher land farther back. There is a kelp patch nearly % 
 mile southeastward from the southern end of the cape. 
 
 Between Capes Atushagvik and Ilktugitak there are two bays, the 
 southwestern one of which is Amalik Bay. The northeastern bay is 
 8 miles or more long, 344 true (NW % N mag.), and nearly 3 miles 
 wide at the entrance. It is clear of islands, except those off Amalik 
 Bay on the southwest side of the entrance. On the northeast side 
 of the bay, 1 ^ miles inside Cape Atushagvik, is a low peninsula y% 
 mile long, with a bluff 150 feet high near its end. Russian Harbor, 
 the cove on the northwest side of the peninsula, is a good anchorage, 
 300 to 500 yards from shore, in 10 to 18 fathoms, muddy bottom. 
 Fresh water may be obtained by boat. The entrance of the bay to 
 the anchorage has been sounded, and the only directions necessary 
 are to give Cape Atushagvik and the islands on the southwest side of 
 the entrance a berth of about 1 mile. 
 
 Amalik Bay lies on the north side of Cape Ilktugitak, and is sepa- 
 rated from the bay northeastward by a high peninsula. No sounding 
 has been done, but there is secure anchorage at its head. Takli Island 
 lies in its mouth. About % mile northwestward of Takli Island there 
 is an inner chain of islands which extends 1 ^ miles southwestward 
 from the high peninsula. On the north and west sides of this chain 
 of islands is a basin % to % mile wide. The anchorage is at the north 
 end of the basin. An inlet not surveyed makes inland from the 
 western side of the basin. 
 
 The entrance to Amalik Bay on the southwest side of Takli Island 
 is 5^ mile wide and apparently clear. Thence the channel follows the 
 western shore, and then northward through the basin along the 
 western side of the inner chain of islands. 
 
 From the bay northeastward there is a channel along the shore of 
 the high peninsula, passing northward of all the outlying islands, and 
 then between Takli Island and the inner chain of islands. 
 
156 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 Takli Island is nearly 2 miles long, its eastern part being low, 
 broken, and rocky. At its extreme western end is a hill 455 feet 
 high, from which there is a sheer clifT to. the water. A chain of rocky 
 islands extends 1J/2 miles eastward from Takli Island. Reefs extend 
 about J/2 mile eastward and southward from these islands, and the 
 passage between them and the group of islands 1 mile northward has 
 dangers and should be avoided. 
 
 TAKLI ISLAND TO CAPE IKTI. 
 
 The coast from Amalik Harbor to Chignik Bay is unsurveyed. The 
 following notes are from the most reliable sources available, but 
 should be used with caution. 
 
 The bay east of Katmai Bay is foul. 
 
 Katmai Bay is an exposed and rocky roadstead which can only be 
 used in northerly and northwesterly weather. The north part is foul 
 as represented on the chart. A shoal, showing kelp, on which a 
 depth of 6 fathoms was obtained, is reported to lie about 3 miles off 
 the coast and 9 miles eastward of Katmai. 
 
 Katmai River, previous to the eruption of Katmai Volcano in 1912, 
 could be navigated by launches at high tide as far as the village. 
 The bar at the entrance is bad and has heavy rips, except at slack 
 water; high-water slack is the time to enter. The inhabitants of 
 the village and of the neighboring villages were moved from their 
 ash-covered homes to Perry, on the peninsula north of Chiachi 
 Island. From last reports, the river was choked with pumice which 
 washes down from the higher slopes faster than the stream can dis- 
 pose of it. Steam and smoke from Katmai Volcano generally hang 
 over the vicinity, obscuring the higher ground in a murky haze. 
 
 The upper part of Kashvik Bay is foul; there is no shelter in the 
 outer part. 
 
 The southern and open part of Alinchak Bay is foul to the head. 
 Although there are many reefs and probably pinnacles around the 
 entrance to the north arm, this arm is reported to offer good anchorage 
 and protection, after it has been entered; but it should not be 
 attempted without local knowledge. 
 
 Cold Bay. Good anchorage is reported in the north end of Cold 
 Bay, the depths being from 14 to 5 fathoms. The anchorage is well 
 sheltered with winds from east, through north, to northwest; but, if 
 the wind is south of east a swell soon makes in. The following ap- 
 proximate courses were steered by the steamer Dora: 
 
 With Cape Karluk 1 mile distant, steer 270 true (WSW mag.) 
 to a position 1^ miles off the outer rocks on the reef extending south- 
 ward from the north entrance point of Cold Bay; then change to 
 304 true (W by N mag.), passing Cape Aklek at 4.8 miles from the 
 point of change; Aklek Reef 2 mues off at 5.2 miles; and to abreast 
 of the inner point at 6.1 miles; then steer 276 true (WSW l / 2 W 
 mag.) for 0.4 mile to anchorage. 
 
 Reefs and rocky islets extend several miles southward from the 
 north point at the entrance of Cold Bay. There are bad tide rips off 
 this reef, which is frequently the case along the west side of Shelikof 
 Strait. The shore northward of Cold Bay is generally foul. The 
 bay is open southward and offers poor protection from the frequent 
 heavy seas from that direction. 
 
TAKLI ISLAND TO CAPE TKTI. 157 
 
 Small boats, in southeasterly weather, anchor off a small sand beach 
 in a shallow bight just inside the north entrance point and are partly 
 sheltered by the reef. 
 
 Cape Aklek, the southwest entrance point, is free from outlying 
 dangers. Just inside this point there is a shingle spit, with high rocky 
 bluffs behind it. In good weather a vessel can anchor off this spit, 
 but the holding ground is bad. A trader lives here, and when the 
 weather permits a surf landing, the mail steamer stops regularly. In 
 winter, the mail goes from this point over the trail to Nusnagak. 
 Williwaws are frequent. 
 
 Portage Bay is clear of dangers so far as known. On entering, 
 keep about mid-channel. There are houses at the extreme upper 
 end. Anchor in 5 fathoms at low water abreast of a flat promontory 
 with sheer cliffs, a little inside of a small gravel spit that makes off 
 from the east shore. About 1J^ miles from the house, 7 fathoms 
 extend for about a mile below the anchorage. 
 
 Kialagvik Bay is a large sheet of water protected from the sea by 
 a long chain of islets. The indication on the general chart is inac- 
 curate; there is no conspicuous mountain recognizable as the one 
 shown on the chart. The bay northeastward, leading toward Be- 
 charof village, is clear of dangers except near the entrance points, 
 where foul ground extends weU offshore, and near the village where 
 the water shoals gradually from 3 miles off the beach. The entrance 
 to the inner bay is rather close to the outer islets, with depths of 2 or 
 3 fathoms over a bar. Within, there are no hidden dangers and the 
 water is mostly deep. A portage to the Ugaguk River begins in a 
 valley near the western end of the inner bay. At the extreme south- 
 western end rises Mount Alai, from which a large glacier descends on 
 its eastern side, while on the seaward slope two others come down 
 from the same field. 
 
 Agripina Bay has been used to some extent by small local craft, 
 and is reported to afford good shelter from all winds. A group of 
 islands lies inside the bay, and a passage is indicated on both sides of 
 them. Anchorages for small craft are indicated at the west end of 
 the largest island, on the south side of the smaller island above it, 
 and in the cove on the north side at the the head of the bay. There 
 is a glacier on the north side of the bay. 
 
 Port Wrangell is shown on a sketch on chart 8851 ; otherwise there 
 is no information available. 
 
 No accurate information is at hand about the bays between Port 
 Wrangell and Chignik Bay. 
 
 Sutwik Island is low and rolling and its southeast point, Foggy 
 Cape, is low and sandy with dunes upon it. The passage between it 
 and the mainland is rocky and should not be attempted. 
 
 CHIGNIK BAY, 
 
 in its southern part, is deep and clear so far as known, and the bottom 
 is irregular. In entering or leaving the bay, the passage northward 
 of Nakchamik Island and that southward of Atkulik and Kak Islands 
 are used. From the hills west of Chignik Bay, on a clear day, no 
 rocks were seen, except those within half a mile of the beach. 
 
 Hook Bay, on the north side of Chignik Bay, is said to be deep and 
 to furnish good anchorage a short distance westward of the end of 
 
158 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 the gravel spit. As observed from the adjacent hills no outlying 
 dangers were seen in this bay. 
 
 Nakchamik Island is grass covered and mountainous, the south- 
 eastern part being the higher, and the middle, on a northeast and 
 southwest line, being the lower. There is a conical peak just east of 
 the center of the island. Cliffs form the sides in general. On the 
 northeast side is the opening of a broad valley with a sand beach, in 
 front of which, it is reported, anchorage may be had in westerly 
 weather. A reef is reported to extend off the west side of the island 
 for some distance. 
 
 Kak Islet is bold and high and generally reddish or grayish in 
 color, with grassy patches on the less steep slopes. The southern 
 bluffs are of marked columnar structure. 
 
 Atkulik Island resembles Kak Islet. On the southeast side there 
 is a high haystack rock close-to. 
 
 Tuliumnit Point, locally known as Castle Cape, is on the south 
 side at the entrance to Chignik Bay. The point is narrow and the 
 stratification is a conspicuous feature. The strata are of many 
 shades of light-colored rocks varied by bands of black. The sum- 
 mit has been worn into many curious pinnacles and buttresses, 
 which suggest its name. 
 
 Castle Bay, immediately west of Tuliumnit Point, is unsurveyed. 
 
 West of Castle Bay are four projecting ridges ending in bluffs at 
 the water's edge ; the low valleys between them terminate in beaches 
 which inclose lagoons. 
 
 Anchorage Bay, chart 8822, lies west of the fourth ridge. This 
 ridge terminates in vertical bluffs about 200 feet high, and rises to 
 a rounded hill which is covered with grass and alders to a height of 
 about 1,000 feet. The ridge west of Anchorage Bay is irregular in 
 form, with bluffs at the water. Off the western point at the 
 entrance is a large, grass-covered rock 82 feet high, connected with 
 the shore at low water, and having a lower rock 100 yards outside 
 it. A reef extends about 200 yards farther out. Westward of the 
 rock the shore is foul for some distance and should not be approached 
 too closely. At the entrance, a shingle spit projects from the eastern 
 shore in a southwesterly direction. The bay is easily recognized 
 by the bluff headland forming the west entrance point with the 
 rock off it, and by the bluffs on the east side, and when nearly abreast 
 of it the smokestacks of the cannery show over the shingle spit. 
 In entering give the outer shore of the shingle spit on the east side 
 a fair berth and do not approach the spit too closely. 
 
 In thick weather care should be taken to avoid entering Mud 
 Bay by mistake. By following the south shore of Chignik Bay, 
 which is fairly clear, little difficulty should be experienced under 
 such conditions. 
 
 Chignik is on the east side near the head of Anchorage Bay. The 
 wharf is fair, with a good depth of water alongside. 
 
 There are two canneries in Anchorage Bay, one in the southeast 
 part belonging to the Northwestern Fisheries Company and the 
 other in the southwest part belonging to the Columbia River Packer's 
 Association. Mail steamers call here regularly and cannery ships 
 are anchored in the bay during the summer months. Chignik post 
 office is at the cannery of the Northwestern Fisheries Company. 
 The best anchorage is in 16 to 18 fathoms, mud bottom, 
 
CHIGNIK BAY. 159 
 
 west-southwestward from the end of the wharf of this cannery. 
 The anchorage closer in under the spit is bad holding ground. Strong 
 winds from northwestward, although infrequent in summer, are 
 sometimes dangerous and cannery ships have been driven ashore 
 by them. Violent williwaws come over the hills which rise steeply 
 from the southeast part of the bay. There are no dangers if the 
 shores be given a berth of over 300 yards. 
 
 West of the high ridge on the west side of Anchorage Bay is Mud 
 Bay, known also as Doris Bay. Vessels may anchor in the middle 
 of the entrance in 7 to 8 fathoms, but the upper part can only be 
 entered by light-draft boats. A reef extends about 300 yards north- 
 northwestward from the eastern point of entrance. 
 
 The extreme southwest corner of Chignik Bay is marked by a 
 high, round-topped, vertical bluff, at the foot of which is the entrance 
 to Chignik Lagoon, protected by a long sand spit, with a channel 
 between it and the bluff. There is said to be a least depth of 2 
 fathoms on the bar and 22 feet ,at high tide. The channel is mod- 
 erately wide and inside the entrance offers 3 to 5 fathoms over sandy 
 bottom as far as the cannery. However, the channel is not con- 
 sidered safe, and vessels which supply the cannery anchor in Anchoi- 
 age Bay or Mud Bay. Only vessels with local knowledge should 
 enter. The Alaska Packer's Association cannery is located on the 
 east side of the lagoon about 2% miles inside the entrance. 
 
 Beyond the cannery the lagoon is shoal. At high water a 3 or 
 4 foot channel leads to the head of the lagoon where the river enters. 
 There is water enough for a light-draft vessel to ascend several miles 
 to a brown seam of coal, which is worked for local use. Two or 
 three miles above the coal seam the river issues from a lake, which 
 is 5 miles long, and is connected with another lake, equally large, 
 by a stream about 8 miles long. 
 
 The following approximate courses and distances were steered by 
 the Steamer Dora. 
 
 Cold Bay to Chignik. From the anchorage in Cold Bay steer 85 
 true (NE by E ^ E mag.) for 1.2 miles to Aklek Reef abeam; then 
 round to 130 true (ESE ]4 E mag.) for K rnile to Aklek Reef abeam 
 a second time; and then change to 152 true (SE J^ E mag.) for 
 2 miles to Cape Aklek abeam, 2 miles distant. From this posi- 
 tion steer 201 true (S y s E mag.) for 9 miles to Cape Unalishagvak 
 abeam, 2 miles distant; then haul to 216 true (S by W J^ W mag.) 
 for 74.5 miles to Foggy Cape abeam, 3 miles distant, passing 4 miles 
 off Cape Igvak and Poltava Island, 3 miles off Aiugnak Columns 
 and 8 miles off Ugaiushak Island. 
 
 From the position off Foggy Cape steer a 253 true (SW ^ W mag.) 
 course for 31.5 miles to a point 1 mile off the north end of Nakchamik 
 Island, then change to 260 true (SW by W % W mag.) for 17.5 miles 
 to Chignik Head abeam, J^ mile distant. From the position off 
 Chignik Head, steer 247 true (SW ^ W mag.) for 1.9 miles to about 
 a mid-channel position, with the 82-foot rocky islet off the west head- 
 land bearing 317 true (NW by W ^ W mag.); then change to 213 
 true (S by W ^ W mag.) for 0.7 mile to the southwest end of the 
 shingle spit bearing 112 true (E J/g S mag.), distant 900 yards; 
 thence a 169 true (SSE % E mag.) course for 0.8 mile leads to an 
 anchorage in 16 to 18 fathoms, soft, muddy bottom, % mile west- 
 southwestward from the end of the wharf at Chignik. 
 
160 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 Chignik to Hook Bay. From the anchorage J4 mile west-south- 
 westward from the end of the wharf at Chignik, steer 349 true 
 (NNW M W mag.) for 0.8 mile to the southwest end of the shingle 
 spit bearing 112 true (E % S. mag.), distant 900 yards; then change 
 to 33 true (N by E y s E mag.) for 0.7 mile to about a mid-channel 
 position with the 82-foot rocky islet off the west headland bearing 
 317 true (NW by W 5 / 8 W mag.). 
 
 Then a 43 true (NNE mag.) course for 12*4 miles leads to a 
 position off Hook Point; then haul to 26 true (N ^/ E mag.) for % 
 mile to a slide abeam; and then change to 15 true (N ^ W mag.) 
 for 1^ miles to a mushroom rock abeam. Round this rock to a 354 
 true (NNW % W mag.) course for ^ mile to the mushroom rock 
 abeam a second time; then change to 313 true (WNW mag.) for 1J^ 
 miles to abreast the sand spit; thence a 251 true (SW }/% W mag.) 
 course for J^ mile leads to the anchorage in Hook Bay. 
 
 Hook Bay to Nakchamik Island. From the anchorage in Hook 
 Bay, steer 83 true (NE by E J^ E mag.) for Y 2 mile to abreast the 
 sandspit; then steer 119 true (E % S mag.) for 1^ miles to the 
 mushroom rock abeam; then change course to 168 true (SSE y% E 
 mag.) for 2% miles to abreast Hook Point. From this position, a 
 129 true (ESE % E mag.) course for 10 miles, leads to the northern 
 end of Nakchamik Island, 1 mile distant. 
 
 Chankliut Island, as it opens out from Tuliumnit Point, appears as 
 three separate islands tangent to each other. The parts are connected 
 by low necks of land; the eastern and central ones appear generally 
 flat while the western part is conical. The slopes are grassy. There 
 are six pinnacle rocks off the west point of the island, and a small 
 bare rock lies at least y mile off this point. 
 
 The channel between Chankliut Island and the mainland is con- 
 sidered free from dangers. It is commonly used by vessels going 
 west from Chignik. It has not been surveyed. It is reported that 
 on rounding Tuliumnit Point at a distance of about 1 mile, a course 
 213 true (S by W J/s W mag.) leads in mid-channel inside the island. 
 A prominent point, about 12 miles beyond the island, is right ahead 
 on this course. 
 
 The land inside of Chankliut Island, from Tuliumnit Point to Cape 
 Ikti, curves inward, instead of outward as shown on the chart. 
 
 Between Tuliumnit Point and the easterly head of Cape Ikti there 
 are three anchorages, called by Capt. McMullen, Necessity Cove, 
 Warner or Prospect Bay, and Bess Cove, and the following informa- 
 tion is furnished by him : 
 
 Necessity Cove, about halfway between Tuliumnit Point and Cape 
 Ikti, affords good anchorage with winds from southwest, through 
 west, to north. It is easily found by white strata which run along 
 the high cliffs. 
 
 From the easterly head of Cape Ikti the shore trends north- 
 northwestward about 6 miles to the entrance of Warner Bay, which 
 is often called Prospect Bay on account of a copper prospect there. 
 The entrance is about 6 or 7 miles west-southwestward of the south 
 end of Chankliut Island. The bay runs inland about 3 miles to a 
 shingle spit which has plenty of water inside it. This bay is protected 
 from the ocean, and is a safe anchorage in any wind. Passing inside 
 of Chankliut Island until abreast its south end, the steamer Dora 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA. 161 
 
 steered the following approximate courses and distances to the 
 anchorage in Warner Bay: 
 
 From the south end of Chankliut Island abeam, steer 234 true 
 (SW by S mag.) for 5 miles to a white cape abeam; then steer 257 
 true (SW by W mag.) for 2 miles to Prospect Head abeam. From 
 this position, steer 293 true (W J4 N mag.) for \y^ miles to breaker 
 rock abeam; then round to 323 true (NW by W J^ W mag.) for 0.3 
 mile to the breaker rock abeam a second time; then change to 4 true 
 (N by W y% W mag.) for 2^ miles to the sandspit abeam, and thence 
 steer various courses for 0.7 mile to an anchorage. 
 
 Leaving Warner Bay bound westward, From the sandspit abeam, 
 steer 186 true (S by E J E mag.) for 2^ miles to breaker rock 
 abeam; then change to 168 true (SSE J^ E mag.) for 5.2 miles; 
 thence a 205 true (S % W mag.) course for 2.3 miles leads to a 
 position about 1 mile off the headland eastward of Cape Ikti, locally 
 known as Seal Cape. 
 
 Ross Cove is a left arm of Warner Bay. It can be used only by 
 small craft, and can not be seen until well up to the high bluffs. 
 There is a shingle spit about J^ mile long; the entrance at the end of 
 this spit is 200 feet wide and a right-angle turn has to be made to 
 enter the cove. There is about 12 fathoms inside. 
 
 CAPE IKTI TO KUPREANOF POINT. 
 
 Kuiukta Bay. The entrance to Kuiukta Bay is 4.5 miles wide, 
 and the bay extends 14 miles inland in a northwesterly, changing to 
 northerly, direction. At its head is a valley with an easy portage 
 leading to Chignik. The bay has an average width of 1.4 miles, and 
 has several smaller bays and bights opening from it. The shores are 
 extremely precipitous, and consist of bare cliffs of great height, 
 strongly colored in shades of gray, red, and black. The rocks appear 
 to be well mineralized, and there is a prominent outcrop of iron ore, 
 resembling a lava flow, on the eastern side 4.7 miles northwestward 
 from Cape Ikti. The water is deep and it is difficult to find anchorage 
 except close to shore in the heaas of the smaller bays. There is a 
 small, low islet, on the east side, at the elbow of the bay 9 miles inside 
 Cape Ikti, and a higher sugarloaf islet near the northern end. About 
 1 mile above the sugarloaf the water shoals. 
 
 Cape Ikti lies on the eastern side of the entrance of Kuiukta Bay, 
 and the unnamed point near Mitrofania village lies on the west side; 
 both are about 1,500 feet high, and present an extremely rugged sky- 
 line of rocky spires, towers, and buttresses. 
 
 Foot Bay and Windy Bay are the only 2 which have names among the 
 12 which indent the shores of Kuiukta Bay. All of them are swept 
 by strong squalls in bad weather. The anchorage in Foot Bay is in 20 
 fathoms, with scant swinging room toward the beach. 
 
 Mitrofania village is a small settlement of half-breeds; it can not 
 be seen from seaward from any direction, except the flagpole stand- 
 ing on a small hill. It should be approached from westward, and an 
 excellent anchorage is found in the small inlet leading toward the 
 village flagpole. Anchor in 19 fathoms, sticky bottom, with the flag- 
 pole bearing 76 true (NE by Emag.), about 0.5 mile distant; there 
 is good shelter here from all winds. Small craft can find secure shel- 
 31056 16 11 
 
162 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 ter in the lagoon behind the village, the entrance to which has a depth 
 of about 4 feet at low water. A narrow spit separates the lagoon 
 from an arm of Kuiukta Bay. About 2.5 miles northward from 
 Mitrofania village there is a portage across the peninsula to Kuiukta 
 Bay. 
 
 Mitrofania Bay includes all the sheet of water north of Mitrofania 
 Island; in its northern part are two unnamed bays near Mitrofania 
 village, and farther westward is Ivan Bay. These bays are surrounded 
 by precipices and sharp peaks; but westward of Ivan Bay there is a 
 flat river valley, and the coast stretches south-southwestward in a 
 straight line forming Long Beach. In Ivan Bay and abreast of Long 
 Beach the water is deep and there is no anchorage. 
 
 long Beach is a steep black sand beach, which extends in a crescent 
 form about 3 miles northeast and southwest. It is flanked on the 
 northern end by a vertical cliff 600 to 800 feet high, made conspicu- 
 ous by many strata of different colored rocks, and on its southern 
 extremity by a precipitous mountain covered with a dense growth of 
 alder bushes. An isolated rock lies near the base of the mountain 
 about 300 yards back from the beach, nearly rectangular in form, 
 the sides being vertical, about 100 feet broad by 60 feet in height, and 
 the top slightly rounded and covered with grass, ferns, and small 
 bushes. Seen from a distance it has the appearance of a huge, native 
 sod house, with the roof overgrown with grass. An extensive valley 
 lies back of the beach in which are several ponds of fresh or brackish 
 water. 
 
 Temporary anchorage with offshore winds can be had near the 
 southwest extremity of Long Beach, on the west side of Ivan Bay, 
 but a heavy swell rolls in with southerly and southeasterly winds. 
 Give due attention to the lead as the bank is steep. 
 
 Mitrofania Island is 6.5 miles long and 4.5 miles wide, and consists 
 of many sharp peaks of nearly the same height; the highest is about 
 2,000 feet. There is a secure harbor, except for northwesterly winds, 
 in the bight on the west side of the north point of Mitrofania Island. 
 Spitz Island and reef lie 1 to 2 miles southward of the southwest 
 point; it is a small sugarloaf islet about 1,075 feet high, with a reef 
 extending 0.6 miles southward from it. 
 
 little Brother and Big Brother Islands lie in Mitrofania Bay, 
 nearer to Mitrofania Island than the mainland; they are similar in 
 size and shape, about 0.4 mile in extent and 390 feet high, with a flat 
 profile. There are rocks awash and broken ground between them 
 and Mitrofania Island, but toward the mainland the channel appears 
 to be clear. The Dora has used the passage between the islands and 
 the north end of Mitrofania, passing close to the latter on a 251 true 
 (SW Y% W mag.) course. 
 
 Veniaminof Volcano sends out a spur in this direction, which is 
 flanked both east and west by extensive plains, and this spur reaches 
 the sea at Coal Cape. The cape is about 1,200 feet high, but soon 
 reaches an elevation of 2,100 feet; its skyline is extremely broken 
 and serrated. 
 
 Chiachi Island (chart 8881) is 3 miles in extent, and lies 1 mile from 
 the nearest point of the coast; it has several rugged peaks, the highest 
 of which is about 1,675 feet. The anchorage shown on the chart is 
 not recommended. Four islands lie near its northeast shore; the 
 
CAPE IKTI TO KTJPREANOF POINT. 163 
 
 southeasternmost is unnamed; Pinusuk Island is a long ridge with a 
 reef and a tower rock eastward of it; Shapka Island is a sugarloaf 
 700 feet high; and Petrel Island is a small flat rock mass. In this 
 locality the navigator should follow the mainland and leave all islands 
 to seaward. 
 
 Perry, an Indian village, was established to provide for the people 
 who were driven away from the vicinity of Katmai Volcano by the 
 eruption of 1912. It consists of a number of wooden houses and 
 a small store standing on the flat beach 4.5 miles westward of Coal 
 Cape. The landing is exposed, especially in southeasterly weather. 
 
 Three Star Point is formed by a low rocky outcrop in the flat 
 plain; it is 1.6 miles south westward of Perry and 4 miles from the foot 
 of Coal Cape mountain range. Westward of it there is a long beach. 
 Coal Point marks the end of this beach, and the eastern side of 
 another mountain range. Humpback Bay lies west of Coal Point 
 between Egg Island and the mainland; there is a portage from 
 Humpback Bay to Ivanof Bay. * 
 
 Egg Island is 1.2 miles long by 0.5 mile wide, and consists of 
 rounded hills, the highest of which is 478 feet. A reef extends from 
 Egg Island almost half way across the channel toward Paul Island. 
 
 Alexander Point lies on the west side of the channel westward of 
 Paul Island. It is the extremity of a range of hills and is about 
 1,500 feet high. 
 
 Paul Island is a crescent-shaped range of hills, reaching an eleva- 
 tion of 1,568 feet in the northern portion of the island. Jacob Island 
 is shaped like a leg of mutton, and is 1,666 feet high near the northern 
 end; from the summit a sharp ridge extends southward to Noon Point, 
 meeting the sea in an overhanging precipice. 
 
 Kupreanpf Harbor (chart 8881) is inclosed by Paul and Jacob 
 Islands; it is circular in shape, 1.1 miles across, and free from dangers. 
 It is sheltered from the sea and from all winds. The western entrance 
 is 0.7 mile wide and free from danger; vessels have used the eastern 
 entrance also; it is 0.4 mile wide. This harbor is the most accessi- 
 ble safe harbor in a wide region. For directions, see page 149. There 
 is a cattle ranch here. Both islands were formerly stocked with 
 foxes, which have now almost disappeared. There are goats on 
 Jacob Island. 
 
 Ivanof Bay lies between Alexander Point and Kupreanof Penin- 
 sula; it is 1.5 to 1.1 miles wide and 7 miles long. There is an island 
 in the middle of it 0.7 mile long, 0.2 mile wide and 350 feet high. 
 Westward of the island the channel appears to be clear, but east- 
 ward of it there is a low-tide rock 0.3 mile off the island and another 
 rock 0.2 mile off the east shore; between the rocks a careful mid- 
 channel course leads through deep water. Ivanof Bay is a safe 
 harbor in bad weather, and one may anchor anywhere above the 
 island, avoiding the mud flats in the northeastern part and those 
 near the lagoon. 
 
 Westward of the north end of Ivanof Bay is a large lagoon, and 
 Granville Portage leads across flat land to Stepovak Bay. The 
 portage is an important one because it is easy, and because it avoids 
 the danger of rounding Kupreanof Point. 
 
164 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 KUPREANOF POINT TO CAPE ALIAKSIN. 
 
 Kupreanof Point is a cluster of confused ridges and pinnacle peaks 
 1,600 feet high; its southern face extends in an east and west line 
 for 4.8 miles. The ridge of the peninsula presents a series of peaks 
 all the way between it and Granville Portage. On the western 
 side is Boulder Bay, which offers good anchorage; and Fox Bay, 
 which is said to be an excellent harbor for light craft. Farther 
 north is Island Bay, and northward of this is a low flat islet near 
 the coast. The shores all around Kupreanof Peninsula appear to 
 be reasonably clear at a short distance offshore; the reef which 
 appears on chart 8802 off Kupreanof Point consists of a few broken 
 rocks in the surf at the foot of the cliffs. 
 
 Stepovak Bay is inclosed on the east by Kupreanof Peninsula. 
 Several widely spaced lines of soundings were run in the bay, which 
 would indicate that the east central part of the bay is safe; and 
 that the western part and the northwest shore from Bales Landing 
 to Cape Swedania are more broken and may develop dangerous shoals. 
 
 Gull Rock lies 0.6 mile off the northern shore of the bay, and is a 
 bare ledge about 40 feet high. From Gull Rock to Granville Portage 
 there is flat alluvial land, through which flows Big River, discharg- 
 ing drainage from this part of the snow fields and glaciers of the 
 Veniaminof range. Westward and southwestward from Gull Rock 
 the coast is backed by a high snowy range of peaks and spires cut 
 by narrow glacier-filled ravines. A spur of this range forms Cape 
 Swedania, and the main range is cut by the portage leading from 
 Balboa Bay to Port Moller. 
 
 Ramsey Bay is 3.5 miles west-southwestward of Gull Rock, and 
 is reported to be filled with low-tide rocks, upon which one cannery 
 ship has been lost. Bales Landing is close to Ramsey Bay, toward 
 Gull Rock, and 2.6 miles westward of Gull Rock. There is anchorage 
 off the house which stands here, on the eastern side of the valley; 
 the locality is called Louies Corner. The house is occupied by the 
 owner of a sulphur mine in the valley. Two small glaciers end 
 about 4 miles up the valley from the beach, with ice-falls down the 
 cliffs upon the flat land. 
 
 When approaching Bales Landing anchorage, care should be taken 
 to avoid a sand spit shoal which runs out about ^ mile a little 
 westward of the flagpole. It is best to keep Lookout Hill (which 
 is very prominent) a little on the port bow until close up to the land, 
 then follow the shore and anchor in 7 fathoms about % mile east- 
 ward of the flagpole. 
 
 The coast is foul from Ramsey Bay around the point as far as 
 Grub Gulch ; there are several low- tide rocks and some kelp. A ves- 
 sel should keep 1 mile off the beach. The point westward of Grub 
 Gulch is a sharp red mountain about 2,000 feet high; the soundings 
 indicate a reef 1.5 miles long extending on the line of the ridge from 
 the end of this point. There are 2 low grassy islets and some rocks 
 in the entrance of Grub Gulch; but there may be a channel leading 
 in westward of these. 
 
 Clark Bay is a large open bight backed by two valleys ; the southern 
 part is called Little Norway. 
 
 Orzinski Bay is marked on the northeast side by Waterfall Point ; 
 it is 2 miles long and 1 mile wide. The waterfall on Waterfall Point 
 
KUPREANOF POINT TO CAPE ALIAKSIN. 165 
 
 is on the extremity of the point, in a most unnatural position, and 
 shows on the tangent in profile; the peak back of it is 1,895 feet high. 
 
 Elephant Point is a sharp ridge 655 feet high, with inclined strata 
 breaking off in sheer cliffs on the southwest face ; off the end of the 
 point are reefs 0.4 mile long eastward and southeastward, partly dry 
 at low water. A vessel should keep more than a mile off it. 
 
 There is a reef almost in the middle of Orzinski Bay, slightly nearer 
 to the north shore, abreast of 'the peak on Waterfall Point. There is 
 a fishing station in the southwestern corner of the bay, called Orzenoy, 
 standing on the shore of the stream which drains the lagoon up the 
 valley. The warehouse may be used as a leading mark for entering; 
 steer for it bearing 295 true (W J N mag.), in range with a notch 
 in the mountains behind it and a rocky peak appearing through the 
 notch on this bearing; beware of the reef off Elephant Point and 
 favor Waterfall Point if in doubt. When abreast of the peak on 
 Waterfall Point, beware of the reef on that side, and favor the other 
 shore if in doubt; when past this reef, steer 332 true (NW J4 W 
 mag.) for the right-hand or northern part of the gravel beach at the 
 head of the bay and anchor in deep water off the low rock cliffs 
 adjoining the beach at its northeastern end, at the opposite corner 
 from the fishing station. 
 
 American Bay or Mobile Bay is a narrow fiord between steep rocky 
 mountain walls. The wind squalls are extremely severe in bad 
 weather. The entrance is a hole in the wall, % m il e wide, between 
 two gravel spits. Parts of the inner bay are almost landlocked; 
 there is a small rocky shelf projecting under water for a short distance 
 at the head of the bay. It is necessary to anchor near the middle of 
 the inner bay; otherwise there is no swinging room. 
 
 Between American Bay and Guillemot Island are Windbound Bay, 
 Chichagof Bay (commonly called Chicago Bay), Dorenoi Bay, and 
 San Diego Bay. These were not thoroughly reconnoitered. 
 
 Guillemot Island is'locally called San Diego Island. It is crescent 
 shaped, about 400 feet high, fairly level on top, and surrounded by 
 almost impassable cliffs. Between it and the mainland there is a 
 chain of oddly shaped rocks, islets, and reefs. There appears to be 
 a partly protected anchorage in the bight on the southwest side of the 
 island, inside the crescent. From here to Cape Swedania the shore 
 has a narrow fringing line of rocks, but appears safe at a reasonable 
 distance. 
 
 Lumber Bay, or Rough Beach as it is called locally, lies on the 
 eastern face of Cape Swedania, 2 miles northeastward of its south end, 
 and consists of a shallow bight at the entrance of a valley; the beach 
 is a dike of cobbles thrown up by the sea, and is capped by a great 
 windrow of driftwood. 
 
 Cape Swedania is the seaward end of a ridge 1,200 feet high; there 
 are rugged cliffs at the extremity, and on the southwestern side there 
 is a gravel spit at the foot of the cliffs. The profile and end slope of 
 Cape Swedania are striking and unusual, resembling in magnified 
 outline the end of an artificial earthwork or bunker, back of which 
 the mountain rises steeply. There are strong williwaws in the lee 
 of it. 
 
 Balboa Bay offers good shelter on the eastern side about 5 miles 
 from Cape Swedania; there is a small bight here with a low gravel 
 point south of it at the mouth of a large ravine containing a stream. 
 
166 ALASKA PENINSULA. 
 
 The inid-channel into the north arm is deep. When the coal mine at 
 Herendeen Bay was in operation supplies were landed here and carried 
 across the trail by pack train, a distance of about 15 miles. The 
 highest point on the trail, less than 600 feet, is near the south side of 
 the peninsula. 
 
 Albatross Anchorage (chart 8851) is a secure harbor near the head 
 of the north arm of Balboa Bay. The best anchorage is in mid- 
 channel abreast of Ballast Island (close to east shore) and has a clear 
 width of 0.4 mile, with depths of 5 to 8 fathoms. A reef extends well 
 off from Reef Point, on the east side 0.6 mile southward of Ballast 
 Island. Small craft may anchor in the bight on the west side oppo- 
 site Ballast Island and secure better protection from the sea by 
 keeping well over on the southern side to avoid a ledge which uncovers 
 at half tide and extends 300 yards southeastward from Bassett 
 Island. The depths are 8 to 12 feet. 
 
 Temporary anchorage for small vessels may be had in Left Hand 
 Bay on the west side of Balboa Bay. A shoal extends 200 or 300 
 yards off shore, then drops rather steeply. Low, marshy ground, 
 known as Kagayan Flats, leads from the head of the bay to Beaver 
 Bay. 
 
 Cape Aliaksin has no distinctive form; it is of a rounded outline 
 and a low rounded profile; there is low land for some distance from 
 the shore all round. The summit is broad and flat, and about 1,700 
 feet high. There is shoal water near shore all round, and a rock 
 awash at high water about J mile off the southwest side. The 
 eastern part of Cape Aliaksin, rounding into Balboa Bay and Left 
 Hand Bay, is called Cape Kagayan. Cape Aliaksin is distinguished 
 with difficulty from westward, but it comes out clearly from eastward. 
 
 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 The surveys include Unga Island, except the west coast; the coasts 
 of Nagai Island from Wedge Cape to Eagle Harbor on the west side 
 and from Wedge Cape to the bight south of East Bight on the east 
 side; the islands between Unga and Nagai Islands; the four islands 
 in East Nagai Strait ; and the west coast of Big Koniuji Island from 
 abreast of Peninsula Island to abreast of Bendel Island. The availa- 
 ble information for the other islands is similar in character to other 
 unsurveyed areas. 
 
 This group, lying southwestward of the Semidi Islands and sepa- 
 rated from the mainland by Unga Strait, consists of fifteen islands 
 and many islets and rocks extending in an east-southeasterly direc- 
 tion. In general, the islands are bold and mountainous and the 
 coasts are greatly broken by inlets that afford good anchorages. The 
 shores are rock-bound close-to. 
 
 There are fishing stations and camps scattered throughout the 
 group, and good fishing banks off the islands. Fox and cattle raising 
 are carried on to some extent. 
 
 SIMEONOF ISLAND (CHART 8881), 
 
 the most easterly of the group, is about 4 miles long and 3}^ miles 
 wide. It is composed of two clusters of hills, the southeastern and 
 higher ones being about 1,600 feet high. These hills are separated 
 by a low plateau which is nearly cut in two by a very irregularly 
 shaped harbor. 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 167 
 
 The coast of the island is fringed with reefs and shoals. Those on 
 the south and southwest sides are variously reported to extend from 
 3 to 7 miles offshore; those on the east side, 3 miles; and those off 
 the other shores, j/2 mile. 
 
 A rock on which the sea breaks at low water has been reported half 
 way between Simeonof and Chernabura Islands. 
 
 Simeonof Harbor is on the western side of the' island. A reef ex- 
 tends about y% mile westward from the north point of the entrance 
 to the harbor. Off the south point of the entrance is a low, flat, 
 rocky island fringed with reefs. The harbor is protected from all 
 winds; the entrance is tortuous, with reefs on either side; the shores 
 are rocky and the water very shoal. The inner anchorage is in 2 y^ 
 fathoms, with not over 2 fathoms at the lowest tide; the bottom is 
 smooth gravel. Anchorage, exposed to westerly winds, may be had 
 in the outer part of the harbor, in about 4 fathoms, about ^ mile 
 inside the entrance. 
 
 Twelve Fathom Strait separates Simeonof and Little Koniuji 
 Islands. The strait is about 2^ miles wide, with depths of 12 to 16 
 fathoms. With the exception of a few kelp patches on the Simeonof 
 side, no dangers are known. 
 
 LITTLE KONIUJI ISLAND 
 
 is very irregular in shape, consisting of three parts, 1,200 to 1,500 
 feet high, connected by raised sand beaches. The southern end ter- 
 minates in a high, rocky, pointed cape, with a reef, marked by a 
 breaker, extending about J^ mile southwestward from it. The east- 
 ern coast is indented by two coves, and there is a large harbor on the 
 western side. 
 
 Sandy Cove (chart 8851) is on the eastern side of Little Koniuji 
 Island. It is about 1 mile wide at the entrance, and \y% miles long. 
 There are prominent granite cliffs on its western shore. The cove 
 affords good anchorage in its southerly bight in about 10 fathoms, 
 sheltered from all but southeasterly weather. 
 
 Atkins Island is about 1 ^ miles long and about y% mile wide, and 
 is connected to the northeast headland of Little Koniuji Island by a 
 shoal. The island rises to a height of 800 feet at its southeastern end. 
 Anchorage is reported southward of the island. 
 
 Northwest Harbor (chart 8881), a bight in the northern side of Lit- 
 tle Koniuji Island, southward of Herendeen Island, may be entered 
 from either side. It affords fair anchorage and protection from all 
 but northeast winds in 5 to 10 fathoms. The harbor is about y% mile 
 wide. There is an abandoned fishing station here. 
 
 Herendeen Island is triangular shaped, about % m il e long and % 
 mile wide. There is an islet off the western end. 
 
 Northeast Harbor (chart 8881), the large bay in the western side of 
 Little Koniuji Island, has two bights and is approximately 4J^ miles 
 long. The east bight of the harbor is somewhat open to westerly 
 winds and the holding ground is rocky and poor. The extreme 
 southeast end of the harbor is more protected and is a favorite refuge 
 for fishermen, though the bottom, being alternately patches of rock 
 and sand, is not good holding ground. There is a small, well pro- 
 tected boat harbor here, at the head of which are several houses 
 belonging to a fox farm. 
 
168 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 CHERNABURA ISLAND 
 
 lies about 8 miles southwestward of Simeonof Island, and is the most 
 southerly of the group. The -entire island is high and mountainous 
 and there are few breaks in its profile, the highest part being at the 
 east end. A rocky islet, apparently connected with the main island 
 by a bar, lies off its northern end. On the east side are three small 
 bays, the middle one of which is reported to afford anchorage in 
 westerly winds. 
 
 BIRD ISLAND 
 
 lies about 4 miles westward of Chernabura and is more irregular than 
 that island, but several of its peaks are nearly as high. Passing well 
 southward of Bird Island it appears as four principal peaks connected 
 by low valleys. Almost its entire southeast side is a series of cliffs. 
 A rock above water lies a short distance off its southern end. 
 
 An anchorage is reported in the bight on the east side of Bird 
 Island, just inside of Point Welcome, in 5 to 12 fathoms. The 
 wreck of a schooner is at the head of the bight. Temporary anchor- 
 age, exposed to all but winds from the southeast quadrant, may be 
 had in the bight in the northwestern side of the island in about 12 
 fathoms, sand bottom, southwestward of the reef making about 1 
 mile in a northwesterly direction off the northwest point of the 
 island. There are rocks about Y^ mile offshore in a westerly direction 
 from the southerly point of this bight and a shoal about 1 mile in a 
 northwesterly direction off the southwest point of the island. Sunken 
 rocks are found lying about J^ mile off the northern shore of the large 
 bight on the eastern side of the island. 
 
 Otter Strait, between Bird Island and Chernabura, is said to have 
 depths between 20 and 35 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 
 BIG KONIUJI ISLAND 
 
 lies west-northwestward of Little Koniuji Island, from which it is 
 separated by Koniuji Strait. It is about 11 miles in length and about 
 6 miles in width at its widest or southern end. It is rugged and very 
 mountainous, with a well-defined central ridge and spurs projecting 
 toward the points. The coast is broken by many inlets and the 
 points are rockbound close inshore. The highest peaks are frequently 
 mist covered. Its northern point is comparatively low and its south- 
 western end terminates in a long narrow point with a high connecting 
 ridge, which resembles an island from some points of view; it has 
 been called Kungiugan. 
 
 Flying Eagle Harbor, on the east side of the island, about 5^ miles 
 southward of Cape Thompson, offers well protected anchorage for 
 small vessels, especially in southerly gales, in 7 to 10 fathoms. 
 
 Hall Island, about % rnile long and y% mile wide, lies about 1 mile 
 off the eastern shore. There are two rocks above water close to the 
 southeast face of the east end of the island, and a reef extends about 
 J4 mile southwestward from the southwest point. 
 
 Murre Rocks are a group of three islets about y% mile northwestward 
 from Hall Island. A rocky ledge extends about J4 m il e southwest- 
 ward from the southern islet. 
 
 Yukon Harbor (chart 8881) lies southwestward of Hall Island. It 
 has a rocky ledge covered with kelp lying close around the eastern 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 169 
 
 entrance point, and rocks close to the western point. Anchorage, 
 
 Erotected from westerly weather, may be had in the center of the 
 arbor, in about 7 fathoms, but the bottom is poor holding ground. 
 
 There is a bay eastward of the southwestern point of Big Koniuji 
 Island, but the depth is reported to be too great to afford anchorage. 
 East of the bay is another one, larger and wider, in which vessels have 
 anchored in 16 fathoms, hard bottom, with protection from northerly 
 and westerly winds. The holding ground is poor. East of this is a 
 high headland on Koniuji Strait. A 3-fathom shoal extends from the 
 south end of the island. 
 
 There are four prominent bights on the west side of the island. 
 They are open and easy of access and their shores are clear, except 
 close-to. 
 
 Anchorage in 24 to 26 fathoms may be had near the head of the 
 bight 146 true (SE J^ E mag.) from Peninsula Island. In approach- 
 ing the anchorage it is necessary to keep northward of mid-channel 
 to avoid a shoal extending 300 yards off the south shore about y^ mile 
 from the head of the bight. 
 
 The other bights do not offer anchorage on account of the great 
 depth of water. Anchorage for very small craft may be found in any 
 of these bights, close in shore, and in the numerous indentations and 
 small coves. The winds draw through the divides into the bights and 
 the williwaws are very strong. 
 
 Koniuji Strait is about 1J^ 'miles wide. Soundings of 16 to 28 
 fathoms are reported. 
 
 Castle Rock, lying about 1 J^ miles northward of the north point of 
 Big Koniuji Island, is rugged and serrated, and its highest peak has 
 an elevation of 825 feet. It makes an excellent landmark. A 
 3-fathom shoal extends about % mile off its southern end. 
 
 The bottom between Big Koniuji and Castle Rock is said to be even, 
 averaging 28 fathoms. 
 
 EAST NAGAI STRAIT 
 
 separates Nagai and Big Koniuji Islands and has an average width of 
 about 6 miles. 
 
 Peninsula, Spectacle, Bendel, and Turner Islands lie in a general 
 north-northeasterly and south-southwesterly direction in this passage, 
 and the waters between this chain of islands and Nagai on one side 
 and Big Koniuji on the other are deep and clear and mid-channel 
 courses may be safely steered. 
 
 Peninsula Island, the most northerly of this group, has a length of 
 \Y^ miles and a width of j^ mile. It has a central peak 1,190 feet 
 high. The shore is rugged, steep, and rockbound. A long bowlder 
 spit extends off the southeast end. The northeast end should not be 
 approached closer than % mile and the southeast end not closer than 
 y% mile. Exposed anchorage may be found on the tail of the shoal 
 extending off the southeast point, in 7 to 12 fathoms, a short y% mile 
 from the narrow point. 
 
 Spectacle Island, lying 3^ miles southward of Peninsula Island, is 
 2^ miles long and 1J^ miles wide at its southern part. It is rock- 
 bound and has steep cliffs on the north, east, and south sides. The 
 northern part is distinguished by two peaks about 900 feet high and 
 the southern part reaches an elevation of 1,240 feet. In general, the 
 island may be approached within y s mile. 
 
170 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 There are anchorages, under favorable conditions, for small craft 
 in the large bight on the east side of Spectacle Island in 6 to 9 fathoms, 
 in the bight on the west side in 4 to 5 fathoms, and in the small cove 
 in the south side in 3 fathoms. The bights on the eastern and west- 
 ern sides are open and easy of access. The entrance to the small 
 cove on the southern side is about 70 yards across with foul ground 
 on either side for a distance of about J^ mile inside the entrance. 
 
 The passage between Peninsula and Spectacle Islands is about 3J^ 
 miles wide and is deep and free from dangers. 
 
 Bendel Island lies in a southwesterly direction from Spectacle 
 Island and is separated from it by a passage % mile wide. It is 
 about 2 miles in diameter and 1,250 feet high. The eastern end 
 terminates in a narrow neck. There are high bluffs on the southern 
 side and sloping valleys on the others. The coast line is rocky, with 
 kelp, and the depths around the island are irregular. 
 
 A flat extends off the southwest side for a distance of about 1 mile 
 with depths of 5 to 10 fathoms and with several shoaler spots. Depths 
 of 7 to 8 fathoms are also found off the northwest and southeast sides. 
 Exposed anchorages for small boats may be found in the bights and 
 on the flats. 
 
 The passage between Spectacle and Bendel Islands is % mile wide 
 and a mid-channel course leads through 21 to 11 fathoms. 
 
 Turner Island is separated from Bendel Island by a passage from 
 J4 to 1^2 miles wide. It is 2% miles long and about % mile wide, 
 with a greatest elevation of 1,180 feet. Its shore is rock-bound and 
 the southeast coast is very foul for a distance of about J^ mile off- 
 shore. There is a low flat on the northwest end with a 400-foot knoll 
 on the point. The bluffs on the north, southeast, and south sides 
 vary in height from 400 to 800 feet. 
 
 The passage between Bendel and Turner Islands is deep at both 
 entrances and shoals gradually to 4 fathoms, in its narrowest part, 
 about mid-channel off the southwest point of Bendel Island. Dense 
 kelp grows on this shoal and small craft find difficulty in passing 
 through. The use of this passage is not recommended for large 
 vessels. 
 
 The Twins consist of three small islands, the highest of which has 
 an elevation of about 200 feet. Their sides are precipitous and bare. 
 As no breakers were seen about them in heavy weather, it is presumed 
 there are no outlying dangers. 
 
 Near Island is about 2 miles long and 600 feet high, with precipi- 
 tous, rocky sides. The island is easily recognized by a regular serra- 
 tion, which cuts its crest into five little peaks. There are rocks close 
 to the shore. 
 
 NAGAI ISLAND 
 
 is approximately 29 miles long and 9 miles wide. Its coast is irregular 
 and indented by numerous inlets, several of which extend nearly 
 through the island and have low narrow isthmuses at the head. The 
 island is mountainous and its shores rock-bound; near the center it 
 reaches an elevation of 1,837 feet in a group of confused ridges. 
 
 Wedge Cape, the northern end of the island, is a narrow headland 
 with a rounded, sloping hill 749 feet high. The north end of the cape 
 terminates in a double point, with elevations of 262 and 316 feet and 
 a rocky bluff 150 feet high between. Its shores are rocky and for- 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 171 
 
 bidding, but may be approached within J4 mile with depths of 14 to 
 25 fathoms; closer in a vessel would be in danger. In general, how- 
 ever, a vessel should keep 1 mile offshore. 
 
 Mountain Cape, the southerly end of the island, is narrow and about 
 500 feet in height. There are rocks surrounding the point at a dis- 
 tance of about }/% mile and a sunken rock about 1 mile offshore in a 
 south-southwesterly direction. 
 
 Pirate Shake is a local name for the low neck, about 65 yards wide, 
 of Nagai Island, 4 miles southward of Wedge Cape. The cove on 
 the east side of the neck is a good anchorage for vessels, but is exposed 
 to winds from about east-northeast to east-southeast. The outer 
 points at the entrance are surrounded by reefs, and a reef, bare about 
 8 feet in places at low water, lies in the middle of the entrance. The 
 better entrance is northward of the reef, heading for an islet on the 
 north side of the cove on a 286 true (W % S mag.) course. Pass 
 300 to 500 yards southward of the islet, and anchor in the middle of 
 the cove west-southwestward of ihe islet, in about 8 to 9 fathoms, 
 bottom soft in places. Anchorage can also be selected in the 
 entrance of the cove just eastward of the islet, in 7 to 8 fathoms, bot- 
 tom generally rocky, taking care, however, to avoid the reef which 
 extends about y% mile from the northeasterly shore of the cove. The 
 flat islet (40 feet high) on the north side of the cove, and a wreck 
 just inside the outer point on the south side of the cove are good 
 marks for the entrance. 
 
 Northeast Bight, on the east side of Nagai Island, about 6 miles 
 southward of Wedge Cape, is about 4 miles long and 1J^ miles wide. 
 It is open, deep, and free from dangers except close to shore. The 
 main body of the bight is too deep for anchorage, but a vessel may 
 anchor in the two coves at the head in about 20 fathoms. 
 
 Mist Harbor is a landlocked basin about 1 mile long and % mile 
 wide, lying on the east side of Nagai Island, about 12 miles south- 
 ward of Wedge Cape, and 314 true (NW by W % W mag.) from the 
 northeast end of Bendel Island. The depths in the middle of the 
 basin are 27 to 35 fathoms, but small craft can find a secure anchorage 
 in the cove on the south side of the west end of the harbor, in 6 to 7 
 fathoms. The south side of the harbor is formed by a long spit; the 
 entrance is around the west end of the spit and is about 250 yards 
 wide, and necessitates a sharp turn in entering. A mid-channel 
 course should be followed through the entrance, and in entering the 
 cove at the west end of the harbor to the anchorage. A flat fills the 
 easterly end of the harbor, and otherwise there are no dangers away 
 from the shores. 
 
 A fishing camp is usually located on the cove at the west end of 
 Mist Harbor, and small temporary wharves may be found. Water 
 may be had from small streams on the northeasterly side of the 
 harbor. Strong williwaws draw down from the high mountains at 
 times. A low neck of land, about 150 yards wide, separates the 
 west end of the harbor from the head of Northeast Bight. 
 
 East Bight, on the east coast about 3 miles southward of the 
 entrance to Mist Harbor, is about 3J4 miles long and 2 miles wide. 
 It is deep, open southeastward, and the shores are clear except 
 close-to. Anchorage for moderate-sized vessels may be found on 
 the shelf on the northeast side in 15 to 20 fathoms, about 1 mile 
 inside the north entrance point and &bout % mile offshore. 
 
172 SHUMAGIN" ISLANDS. 
 
 The two west arms do not afford good anchorage on account of the 
 depth, about 29 fathoms. There is a 7-fathom spot, surrounded by 
 deep water, in the northern of the two arms, lying 650 yards off the 
 west shore and about % mile from the head of the arm. 
 
 The entrance to the south arm is restricted to about 450 yards 
 by a shoal extending about 650 yards in an easterly, and 900 yards 
 in a northerly direction off its south entrance point. In entering 
 favor the north shore at a distance of J^ to 34 mile. Small boats 
 may find protected anchorage behind the hook at the south entrance 
 point, in 9 to 15 fathoms. After passing well through the entrance 
 to the arm, head 180 true (S by E % E mag.) to pass about 100 
 yards westward of the west end of the hook spit. When abreast 
 of the end of the hook, round into the cove and select anchorage 
 about in its center. 
 
 A bight about 3 miles southwestward of East Bight, locally known 
 as Pete Larssen Bay, affords good anchorage in 4 to 10 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom. The bight is open and easy of access but is exposed 
 to easterly winds. The western shore is low and is distinguished 
 by white sand dunes. There is a bold headland about 100 feet 
 high projecting from the south side. 
 
 There are several open bights on the east coast of the island be- 
 tween Pete Larssen Bay and Mountain Cape. 
 
 John Island, in the large bay in the southwest part of Nagai Island, 
 is 300 or 400 feet high. 
 
 South of John Island, Nagai Island consists of two clusters of 
 rocky hills, about 1,000 feet high, united by low isthmuses. 
 
 The southerly isthmus is called Saddlers Mistake, due to a vessel 
 attempting at night to pass through between the adjacent high parts 
 of the island. 
 
 Falmouth Harbor (chart 8881), on the west coast of Nagai Island, 
 about 6 miles northward of John Island, affords a secure, though 
 limited, anchorage for a small vessel in the basin behind the spit 
 at its head, in 7 to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. The entrance to the 
 basin is not over 300 yards wide, has a depth of 6 fathoms, and con- 
 tains no known dangers. The basin is ^ mile wide, and its north 
 side is a broad sand flat which drops suddenly to 4 fathoms. 
 
 A reef extends M m il e southwestward from the south head of 
 Falmouth Harbor; and a rock, bare at low water and marked by a 
 breaker and kelp, lies % mile from that head in the same direction. 
 
 The south shore of Falmouth Harbor is low at the water's edge but 
 slopes rather steeply. The northern headland rises some 500 feet 
 in a perpendicular cliff. The shore is rocky and bold. A rock, 5 
 feet above water, stands J mile from shore and 1 J4 miles northwest- 
 ward from this headland. Halfway up the bay on the south side 
 is a low point, with a rock close-to, known as Cape Horn. 
 
 Wooly Head, between Falmouth and Eagle Harbors, is a promon- 
 tory 1,200 feet high; there are rocks 0.2 mile from shore all around 
 its face, some of them awash and others forming towers and pinna- 
 cles 50 feet high. A vessel may pass % mile off in 20 fathoms. 
 Violent williwaws are frequent here. 
 
 Eagle Harbor (chart 8881), northward of Wooly Head, is about 
 4^ miles long in a southeasterly direction and 1% to J^ mile wide, 
 and has a depth of 15 to 20 fathoms, with no outlying dangers until 
 approaching the spits which lie 1 J^ miles from the head of the harbor. 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 173 
 
 In passing between the spits, favor the one on the southwest shore. 
 There is good anchorage anywhere in the head of the harbor above 
 the spits in 14 to 18 fathoms, soft bottom. Small craft can anchor 
 in the lagoon behind the north spit in depths of 5 to 7 fathoms. 
 
 There is a fishing station, with a large warehouse and a boat wharf, 
 on the southern side of Eagle Harbor, 1.3 miles inside the entrance, 
 and a small abandoned fish station and boat wharf on the north 
 shore 1.8 miles inside the entrance. 
 
 Sanborn Harbor (chart 8891) lies about 3^ miles northward of 
 Eagle Harbor. The pinnacle rock 103 feet high off East Head, the 
 northern entrance point, and the two waterfalls on the west face of 
 the south entrance point, are conspicuous landmarks. 
 
 The harbor is 5 miles long and has good anchorage at its head. To 
 secure good shelter in Sanborn Harbor, a vessel should pass between 
 Macks Head and Granite Point, and then anchor as desired, avoiding 
 only the upper half of the northeast arm, which is shoal. There are 
 no outlying dangers anywhere in Sanborn Harlor. 
 
 There is a fishing station in a" small exposed bay on the north side 
 of Sanborn Harbor, 2 ^ miles southeastward of East Head; it has a 
 warehouse and a boat wharf dry at low water. 
 
 Catons Cove lies on the north side of Sanborn Harbor, 3J/2 miles 
 southeastward of East Head; there is shelter, in the Kitchen, for 
 light craft, back of the sand spit. The channel, close to the spit until 
 through the narrowest part of the entrance, has a least width of 100 
 feet and a least depth of 10 feet. 
 
 Porpoise Harbor, about 3 miles northward of Sanborn Harbor, 
 affords no useful anchorage on account of great depth. 
 
 The bight about 2J^ miles northward of Porpoise Harbor has tem- 
 porary anchorage in 8 to 15 fathoms, giving the shore a berth of over 
 300 yards. Porpoise Rocks are a small cluster 10 feet high, with deep 
 water close-to, lying 0.8 mile from the north shore in the approach to 
 the bay. 
 
 The narrow bight west of Pirate Shake affords anchorage for small 
 craft about ^ mile inside the entrance and about on the middle line 
 of the cove, in 4 to 6 fathoms, rocky bottom. The bight is exposed 
 to westerly winds and its eastern half is foul and shoal to the head. 
 
 WEST NAGAI STRAIT, 
 
 between Nagai and Andronica Islands, is 3.3 miles wide at its nar- 
 rowest point between Porpoise Kocks and the Haystacks, with depths 
 from 25 to 45 fathoms and no outlying dangers. A vessel should 
 pass eastward and southward of the Haystacks and on these sides 
 may approach as close as 0.3 mile in 25 fathoms. 
 
 The currents in West Nagai Strait set with the wind, and reach a 
 velocity of 1^ to 2 knots in strong winds. Under ordinary condi- 
 tions the prevailing set of the current is said to be southwestward in 
 this vicinity. 
 
 The Haystacks are a formidable appearing group of four islets 265 
 to 293 feet high, and there is a broken chain of rocks running through 
 them. Broken ground on which the least depth found is 9 fathoms 
 lies 1 M miles southwestward from the southwesterly bare rocks. A 
 rock called The Whaleback, 1 mile west of the Haystacks, is 22 feet 
 high, and 300 yards south-southwestward of it is a sunken rock. 
 
174 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 Temporary anchorage in 20 fathoms or less can be had in the bight 
 eastward of the Haystacks. A landing can be made on the bowlder 
 beach. 
 
 The soundings indicate clear passages between Andronica and the 
 Haystacks, between The Whaleback and the Haystacks, and between 
 the north Haystack and the rest of the group, but none of these pas- 
 sages are recommended. 
 
 ANDRONICA ISLAND 
 
 is 2 by 3 miles in extent and 1,175 feet high. It is bordered by 
 rocks all around to a distance of 0.2 mile from the shore, and vessels 
 should give the shore of the island a berth of % m ile. There is a flat 
 islet 22 feet high extending 0.4 mile off the southeast point toward 
 the Haystacks. 
 
 The northern point of Andronica is a detached wedge of rock 280 
 feet high. There is a rock awash at low water 0.7 mile westward of 
 the north point and 0.4 mile offshore, and this is the farthest outlying 
 danger in the approach to Gorman Strait. There is another rock 5 
 feet high, and 0.2 mile off the western point of Andronica Island. 
 
 Temporary anchorage may be found J^ mile from shore in the 
 bight on the northeast side of Andronica, off the sand beach near the 
 northern point, in 20 fathoms. Small vessels can anchor closer to 
 shore in this bight, and also in the bight on the southwest side of the 
 island, and landing can usually be made in one of these bights. 
 
 GORMAN STRAIT, 
 
 between Andronica and Korovin Islands, has a least width of 2% 
 miles, and is clear if the shores be given a berth of % mile. In round- 
 ing Cape Devine it is well to avoid the broken ground which sur- 
 rounds this point to a distance of about 1 ^ miles in a northeasterly 
 direction and about 1 mile in a southerly direction, until a more 
 detailed development is made. 
 
 The currents in Gorman Strait set with the wind, and reach a 
 velocity of 1^2 to 2 knots in strong winds. Under ordinary condi- 
 tions the prevailing set of the current is said to be southwestwai d in 
 this vicinity. 
 
 KOROVIN ISLAND 
 
 has two summits; low land and marsh occupies the middle portion; 
 the eastern end is a rocky cliff 1,200 feet high, and the western end is 
 1,816 feet high. 
 
 Sounding has been completed on the south side of Korovin Island 
 from Cape Devine to a point 2 miles southeastward of Henderson 
 Island, and otherwise a few reconnoissance lines only have been run 
 around the island. 
 
 Cape Devine, marking the northwest side of Gorman Strait, is a 
 gray headland 855 feet high joined to the southeasterly part of 
 Korovin Island by a low neck. The shore is fringed with rocks and 
 a rock awash at low water lies 400 yards off the south side of the cape. 
 A bank on which the least depth found is 11 fathoms extends % 
 mile southward from the cape. 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 175 
 
 Scotland Point, the north end of Korovin Island, has shallow 
 water off it. Scotland Rock, awash at low water, exists in this 
 locality and is supposed to lie about 1 mile northward of the point, 
 but it has not been located. 
 
 Grosvold Bay, 2 miles southwestward of Scotland Point, may be 
 used as an anchorage. The entrance is foul on both sides but safe 
 in the middle, and there is foul ground inside off both the east and 
 west shores. The steamer Patterson anchored in the center of the 
 bay, in 8 fathoms, sand and rock bottom. 
 
 The bay between Scotland Point and Grosvold Bay is not recom- 
 mended. 
 
 Henderson Island is J mile long, 58 feet high, and lies % m il e ff 
 the west end of Korovin Island. When approaching from westward 
 it is hard to distinguish Henderson Island from Korovin until close-to. 
 There is shallow water between the two islands, and rocks off the 
 western end of Henderson ; it should be given a berth of over J^ mile. 
 
 There is anchorage either northward or southward of Henderson 
 Island. The southerly anchorage is eastward of a bare rock about 
 5 feet high, and the anchorage should be approached from the south- 
 ward. 
 
 The southern bight of Korovin Island has reefs extending 0.3 mile 
 from shore, but affords anchorage 0.6 mile offshore. There is a 
 small settlement in this bight. 
 
 Korovin Strait, between Korovin and Popof Islands, has a least 
 width of about 2 miles, and is deep and clear. 
 
 KARPA ISLAND 
 
 is 0.7 mile by 1.3 miles in extent and 1,373 feet high. It is grass- 
 covered, with a smooth profile, and has a remarkable cliff 900 feet 
 high at the northeast point. The island may be ascended only 
 from the southwest point; 70 yards off this point is a tower rock 50 
 feet high, and a reef above water extends 140 yards off the southeast 
 point. There is a narrow kelp field along the south and southeast 
 sides of the island, and otherwise there are no known outlying dan- 
 gers. A few reconnaissance lines of soundings have been run in 
 the vicinity of the island. 
 
 POPOF ISLAND 
 
 is irregular and rough in shape, with hills ranging approximately 
 1,000 and 1,500 feet nigh. The highest point, 1,550 feet, is a short 
 distance northeast of the center of the island. The shores are gen- 
 erally rocky and steep and have many ledges, covered with kelp, 
 extending 200 to 300 yards offshore. 
 
 The north and east shores of Popof Island have no outlying dan- 
 gers, but the shore should be given a berth of about % mile. Be- 
 tween Andronica and Popof Islands the water is deep and clear. 
 Temporary anchorage may be found % mile off the north shore of 
 Popof Island anywhere west of Pirate Cove, in 10 fathoms. 
 
 Fox Hole, also called Little Harbor, is on the east side of the north 
 end of Popof Island, and is about 1J4 miles long in a south-south- 
 westerly direction. It affords a well-sheltered anchorage for a 
 small vessel, the depths ranging from about 15 fathoms at the en- 
 trance to 6 fathoms near the edge of the flat which extends 0.3 mile 
 
176 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 from the head. The harbor has a clear width of about 400 yards; 
 foul ground extends over 100 yards in places from the shores, and 
 a reef extends about 250 yards northward from the point on the 
 south side of the entrance of the narrow part of the harbor. The 
 north point of entrance is a sheer cliff, about 150 feet high. The 
 only directions necessary are to keep in mid-harbor. 
 
 Popof Head, 980 feet high, is connected to the southeast part of 
 Popof Island by an isthmus. Itis a high precipitous headland with 
 a steep slope of talus. There is 20 fathoms 200 yards south of it 
 and the depths increase southward; the 100-fathom curve is 2 miles 
 off. Vessels should give it a berth of y% mile, although in fog it 
 might be approached more closely. 
 
 There are two large bights, with sand beaches, the westerly one 
 known as Red Cove, on the south side of Popof Island halfway 
 between Egg Island and Popof Head. Both of the bights furnish 
 anchorage in northerly weather, in 8 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. 
 Landing with keel boats is difficult on account of considerable surf 
 and shoal water near the shore. The point separating the bights 
 is a narrow, rocky projection fringed with foul ground to a distance 
 of about 300 yards; rocks awash at low water lie 600 yards from 
 shore and 0.4 and 0.7 mile westward of the point. 
 
 POPOF STRAIT (CHART 8891), 
 
 between Popof and Unga Islands, is wide and deep at its southern 
 end but is narrow and contains several ledges in its northern part. 
 The principal outlying dangers are as follows: 
 
 There is 8 feet on a dangerous pinnacle rock which lies 1.1 miles 
 207 true (S % W mag.) from the point east of Red Cove; 3 miles 
 109 true (E mag.) from Egg Island; and 3.6 miles 291 true (W J/g 
 N mag.) from Popof Head. It is on a line from the north tangent 
 of Egg Island to the tangent to Popof Head, bearing 111 true 
 (E y? S mag.). Kelp seldom grows sufficiently long to be seen at 
 thr surface. 
 
 There is about 39 feet on a rocky shoal 1,000 yards 110 true 
 (E y% S mag.) from the first pinnacle rock on the beach south of 
 the entrance to Squaw Harbor; there may be less. 
 
 The bottom of the southern part of the strait is broken and irregu- 
 lar, but no other hidden dangers were found. A vessel should keep 
 0.4 mile off either shore. There are a few settlers along the Unga 
 Island shore. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, POPOF STRAIT. 
 
 From eastward pass 1 mile southward of Popof Head and steer 
 288 true (W }/ S mag.) for about 5 miles for Hardscratch Point, 
 which leads 1 . 1 miles southward of the 8-foot rock. When Egg Island 
 bears 323 true (NW by W mag.) steer 337 true (NW M N mag.) for 
 4.2 miles, passing 700 yards eastward of Egg Island and round Sand 
 Point 0.2 mile off. 
 
 Entering from southwestward. From a position ^ mile off Kellys 
 Rock steer 337 true (NW M N mag.) for 8 miles, passing 700 yards 
 eastward of Egg Island and round Sand Point 0.2 mile off, as before. 
 
 After rounding Sand Point at a distance of 0.2 mile steer 52 true 
 (NNE % E mag.) for Sand Point Wharf for about Y 2 mile, until Egg 
 Island begins to close on the bottom of the hillside at Sand Point, 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 177 
 
 Then steer true (N by W % W mag.) for about 1 J4 miles with West 
 Head shut in and the point south of it ahead, and Egg Island almost 
 shut in astern, passing midway between Unga Reef and Popof Reef, 
 where the channel has a least width of 400 yards. 
 
 When a 33 true (N by E % E mag.) course will clear Range 
 Island by 300 yards, steer that course; the rock 150 yards off the 
 point of Unga Island near Unga Reef will then be right astern and in 
 range with the eastern shoulder of a saw-toothed peak in the Unga 
 range of mountains. 
 
 Pass 300 yards off Range Island and when its northwest point bears 
 180 true (S by E % E mag.) and is in range with the point where 
 Sand Point Wharf is located, bring this range astern and steer true 
 (N by W % W mag.); the change of course is 200 yards east of a 
 4-fathom shoal. 
 
 Bound westward. After passing West Head, at the north end of 
 Popof Strait, 0.4 mile distant, on a true (N by W % Wmag.) course, 
 run 1.1 miles, and change course to 289 true (W mag.) with High 
 Island astern and the tangent to Cape Aliaksin ahead; run 4.7 miles 
 to a position 0.9 mile northward of Gull Island. Then follow direc- 
 tions on page 150. 
 
 Bound eastward. After passing through the strait as above 
 directed, pass about j^j mile off East Head and steer 86 true (NE by 
 E % E mag.) to pass 0.9 mile northward of High Island. 
 
 It is difficult to enter Popof Strait from northward at night as there 
 are no prominent landmarks and the entrance is hard to distinguish 
 on account of higher land in the background. 
 
 Egg Island lies in the middle of Popof Strait 2*/ miles southward 
 of Sand Point. It is 160 feet high, 600 yards across, and grassy on 
 top. Little Egg Island, close westward of it, is grassy- topped, 25 
 feet high, and 130 yards across. There are a few detached rocks 
 about these islands. A vessel should not approach closer than 400 
 yards, where 15 fathoms or more will be found. 
 
 "Sand Point is a flat sand spit 0.4 mile long. Its south shore is 
 fringed close-to by rocky ledges and its north shore has sandy bottom. 
 A shoal shelves off about 150 yards westward from the point, and then 
 drops off abruptly to deep water. 
 
 Humboldt Harbor (chart 8891) furnishes excellent shelter and good 
 holding ground. Occasional strong southwesterly winds necessitate 
 the use of a second anchor to prevent dragging in this harbor. Passing 
 0.2 mile off Sand Point steer for Sand Point wharf on a 52 true 
 (NNE J E mag.) course; anchor in about 10 fathoms about J^ mile 
 from the shore northward and eastward, with the end of Sand Point 
 bearing 220 true (S by W % W mag.), and Range Island 30 yards 
 open from the land. 
 
 Sand Point wharf, at the head of Humboldt Harbor, is 1.3 miles 
 northeastward of Sand Point. It has a frontage of 42 feet and a 
 depth of 14 feet at low water at the end. A vessel can berth only at 
 the end as there are loose rocks, almost bare at low water, which 
 form a support for the wharf all the way to its outer face. The 
 wharf is not strong. There is a store here, but no settlement. 
 
 Popof Reef lies in Popof Strait, westward and southwestward of 
 Sand Point wharf. Its northern part has a least depth of 8 feet, lies 
 300 to 700 yards westward of the point just northwestward of Sand 
 31056 16 - 12 
 
178 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 Point wharf, and is marked at its southwest end by a black buoy. A 
 vessel may cross the reef in not less than 4 fathoms by passing 100 
 yards south of the buoy; 250 .yards south of the buoy there is a small 
 patch on the reef with 2 fathoms over it. 
 
 Unga Reef is described with Unga Island. 
 
 A small rocky shoal with 17 feet over it lies in the middle of Popof 
 Strait ]/2 mile southward of Range Island. 
 
 Range Island is 30 feet high and 300 yards across; it is round and 
 grassy over the summit. There is 8 fathoms 100 yards from the 
 northwest end. There is no passage between it and Popof Island. 
 
 East Head, on the east side at the north entrance to Popof Strait, 
 has foul ground and kelp for a distance of % mu * e on its west side and 
 extending southward to Range Island. 
 
 Pirate Cove, 4J miles east-northeastward of East Head, is an im- 
 portant cod-fishing station, with a wharf and an extensive plant; 
 there is a berth at the wharf 100 feet long with 5 to 10 feet at low 
 water. The cove is properly only a boat harbor and it is necessary 
 to warp a vessel in and out. At low tide vessels of a greater draft 
 than 10 feet lie in the mud. Vessels of 250 tons load cargo here 
 regularly. 
 
 High Island, ^ mile off the northeast part of Popof Island, is % 
 mile long and 310 feet high, with its greatest height near its north 
 end. It is grass covered but has reddish cliffs showing westward and 
 grassy slopes on the other sides. There are 30 fathoms and more 200 
 yards from it all around and the passage between it and Popof is 
 clear. The island can be passed fairly close to and is a useful mark 
 for making Gorman Strait in thick weather. 
 
 UNGA ISLAND, 
 
 the largest and most important of the Shumagin group, has several 
 large indentations, among which are Zachary Bay, on the north side, 
 and Delarof Harbor and Baralof Bay (Squaw Harbor) on the east. 
 It is quite mountainous, especially the eastern half. The western 
 half is comparatively low, that part west of Zachary Bay having 
 somewhat rolling topography. The highest mountains are just south 
 of Zachary Bay, where a maximum elevation of 2,270 feet is found. 
 In general, the shore line is rocky and precipitous. The south and 
 west coasts are particularly foul. Near the west end of the north 
 shore is a sand beach 3 miles long, with sand dunes immediately back 
 of it. The west shore of the island is not surveyed. 
 
 A vessel should avoid approaching the south coast of Unga Island, 
 except in fine weather. There is no shelter or protection, and often 
 a southeast storm comes on suddenly, making it a bad lee shore. It 
 is a bad landfall when approaching from seaward in bad weather, 
 and the currents can not be foreseen. However, all dangers on this 
 side are within ^ mile of the shore. 
 
 West Head, the point of Unga Island at the north entrance of Popof 
 Strait, is a black cliff 40 feet Jugh, and y^ mile south of it are cliffs 
 300 feet high. Westward from West Head the cliffs are higher, bro- 
 ken, however, by numerous valleys. There is 10 fathoms 300 yards 
 off West Head. 
 
 Unga Reef extends 0.7 mile south-southeastward from the western 
 shore of Popof Strait, in the narrowest part opposite Sand Point 
 wharf. A small patch lying about J m ile off the point is bare about 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 179 
 
 2 feet at low water, and has ribbon kelp around it. The south end 
 of the shoal, with depths of 3 to 4 fathoms, lies about ^ mile north- 
 westward from the end of Sand Point. The southern part is known 
 as Caton Shoal. 
 
 Baralof Bay, locally known as Squaw Harbor, on the eastern coast 
 of the island, about 6^2 miles northward of Unga Cape and about the 
 same distance westward from Popof Head, is a good anchorage except 
 in heavy easterly weather. In approaching from southeastward, 
 keep 0.8 mile or more offshore, and in entering the harbor favor, if 
 anything, the north side. Anchor in the middle of the bay in 16 to 
 18 fathoms, sticky bottom. Small vessels anchor nearer the head of 
 the harbor, in not less than about 6 fathoms. There are three fishing 
 stations in the bay. Vessels may lie across the face of the wharf of the 
 station on the north side of the bay, where there is 12 feet of water at 
 low tide. In the middle of the bay and 1,000 yards from its head is 
 a sandy shoal having a least depth of 24 feet. Fishing vessels use 
 this shoal for a winter anchorage and consider it safe. There is a 
 sandy shoal extending J4 m ^ e off the south side at the entrance. 
 
 Northward of Baralof Bay the shore is more or less foul. A few 
 settlers live along this coast. There is a fishing station in the bight 
 west of Hardscratch Point. 
 
 Delarof Harbor (chart 8851), 3 miles northward of Unga Cape, is 
 not sheltered except in northwesterly weather, and the holding 
 ground is bad. The depths in the outer harbor range from 15 fath- 
 oms at the entrance to 5 fathoms about 300 yards outside the entrance 
 to the inner harbor. It is not safe to anchor in less than about 6 
 fathoms. 
 
 Approaching the harbor from either direction, several rocks and 
 islets are found close inshore. Halfway Rock, 70 feet high and 90 
 yards in diameter, lies 200 yards offshore about % mile inside the 
 north entrance point. Cross Island, 265 feet high, lies midway of the 
 north shore. Elephant Rock, 155 feet high, is a small projecting 
 point a short distance inside the south entrance point. A rock 40 
 feet high lies 300 yards off Elephant Rock, to which it is connected 
 by a reef. 
 
 A dangerous shoal known as the Blind Breaker, which is bare at 
 extreme low water, lies in the entrance 850 yards 180 true (S by E 
 % E mag.) from the southeast end of Cross Island, and about 1 mile 
 119 true (E % S mag.) from the south entrance point of the inner 
 harbor. The rock is closely surrounded by depths of 12 to 14 fathoms. 
 
 A shoal with 20 feet at mean lower low water lies in the center of 
 the anchorage off the town, about 650 yards 122 true (ESE % E 
 mag.) from the south entrance point of the inner harbor. 
 
 Enter Delarof Harbor on a 287 true (W ^ S mag.) course, heading 
 for the point on the south side of the entrance of the inner harbor, 
 which leads J4 m il e northward of the Blind Breaker. 
 
 A mile from the entrance is a narrow constricted passage beyond 
 which the bay is shoal. In the center of this inner harbor is a large 
 reef which is exposed at extreme low water. Flagstaff Hill, 80 feet 
 high, is the rounded point, surmounted by a flagpole, at the north 
 side of the narrow passage to the inner harbor. Unga, the largest 
 settlement in the Shumagin group, lies back of this hill and consists 
 of a fishing station, 3 stores, a post office, a jail, a church, and about 
 30 houses. The population in 1910 was 108. There is no wharf 
 
180 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 where vessels may lie. On the south side of the harbor near the 
 entrance is the wharf of a fishing station, the end of which is bare at 
 low water. At the head of the harbor is the wharf of the Apollo 
 Mines, approached only at high water. A ledge bare at low water 
 lies 400 yards southward from Unga wharf. Small boats anchor in 
 2 or 3 fathoms in the middle of the narrow entrance inside of this 
 ledge. 
 
 Kellys Rock marks the southwest side of the southern entrance to 
 Popof Strait. It is a flat-topped, grassy islet 65 feet high, 160 yards 
 across and 200 yards offshore. There is 14 fathoms 175 yards off- 
 shore from it. Vessels should give it a berth of J/ mile or more. 
 There is a fishing station in the bight a mile west of Kellys Rock, and 
 this is the only one in the vicinity which is open all the year. 
 
 Unga Cape, the southeast point of Unga Island, is a bare, gray, 
 rugged cliff 855 feet high. A wall-like slab of rock 500 feet high, 
 connected to the cape by a narrow bar, stands just south of the cliff 
 and perpendicular to it. There are ledges at the foot of the cliff. 
 A vessel may pass }/% mile off in 25 fathoms. 
 
 Sealion Rocks, 3 miles south-southeastward of Unga Cape, are 
 0.2 mile in extent, 130 feet high, flat-topped and grassy. There is 
 a breaker 0.4 mile northeastward of them. A vessel may pass y% 
 mile off in 26 to 32 fathoms but should give them a greater berth. 
 There is a clear width between Sealion Rocks and Unga Cape of 
 23/2 miles, with depths from 20 to 30 fathoms and, no outlying dangers. 
 
 Acheredin Bay is a large open bight in the south shore of Unga 
 Island. It is 3 miles across and 2 miles deep. Its shore is a sand 
 and pebble beach, behind which is a lake 7 feet above high water. 
 A vessel may approach to 0.6 mile off the sand beach in 8 fathoms. 
 
 Acheredin Point, the southwest end of Unga Island, is a black 
 mountain 1,400 feet high, with an exceedingly rough surface and 
 serrated profile. At the end of the point is a separate hill 500 feet 
 high. A vessel should keep I mile off. 
 
 The west side of Unga Island is unsurveyed. 
 
 Bay Point, or Nigger Head, is a rocky headland of rounded profile, 
 325 feet high, which forms a good landmark all around, and shows 
 over the land in Unga Strait. There is said to be anchorage in 7 
 fathoms northward of Bay Point affording good shelter for north- 
 easterly winds. 
 
 The northerly point of the island terminates in a sand spit sur- 
 rounded by shoal water to a distance of about J^ mile offshore in 
 a northerly direction and to greater distances on either side. 
 
 Under favorable weather conditions a fair anchorage may be found 
 in 5 to 7 fathoms, sand bottom, % mile 280 true (W % S mag.) 
 from the sand spit on the north shore of Unga Island. Small vessels 
 can anchor closer to shore off the western side of this spit in as little 
 as 4 fathoms in places. About 2 miles southwestward of this spit 
 to the beginning of the rocky shore line the 5-fathom curve is about 
 1 mile offshore. 
 
 Gull Island is a flat-topped, grassy islet about 50 feet high and 
 80 yards across. It is 0.9 mile off the west side of the entrance of 
 Zachary Bay. The island has deep water all round it as close as 
 200 yards. There is a passage with a clear width of }/% mile inside 
 of the island, but care should be taken to avoid the reef extending 
 from the west entrance point of Zachary Bay. 
 
SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 181 
 
 ZACHARY BAY (CHART 8891), 
 
 on the north side of Unga Island, is 6 miles long and 2 miles wide 
 at the entrance, narrowing to about 1 mile in the middle of the bay. 
 It is open and easily entered. The outer part of the bay has depths 
 of 10 to 20 fathoms, sticky bottom, affording anchorage, but is 
 exposed to northerly and northeasterly winds. The principal 
 dangers are as follows : 
 
 Two small reefs, known as Weedy Shoals, which show well at low 
 water, lie J^ mile from the eastern shore halfway from the entrance 
 to North Head. A kelp-marked ledge, bare at low water, extends 
 nearly % m il e northeastward from the western shore at the entrance ; 
 the end of the ledge lies 1.1 miles 162 true (SE % S mag.) from 
 Gull Island. 
 
 The best anchorage for vessels in Zachary Bay is about J to % 
 mile from the eastern shore and J^ to 1 mile southward of Round 
 Island, in 8 to 12 fathoms, sticky bottom. To enter, pass North 
 Head on a 178 true (S by E ^ E mag.) course for the west end of 
 Round Island in range with the middle of a saw-toothed mountain, 
 which leads J^ m ile westward of North Head. Then pass about 
 200 yards westward of Round Island, and follow the eastern shore 
 southward at a distance of )^ to ^ mile. The principal dangers 
 are as follows: 
 
 A rock with 20 feet over it lies 300 yards westward of North 
 Head. An extensive shoal makes out from the western shore from 
 northward of North Head to the head of the bay, the 5-fathom curve, 
 on the eastern edge of the shoal, passing 700 yards westward of 
 North Head and 350 yards westward of Round Island; southward 
 of Round Island the edge of the shoal is steep-to. The head of the 
 bay is shoal southward of the point on the east shore 1.4 miles south- 
 ward of Round Island. 
 
 Coal Harbor (chart 8891) is the best anchorage for small vessels 
 in Zachary Bay. The berth with best swinging room is % mile 
 north-northeastward of Quartz Point, with North Head just open 
 from the western entrance point of the bay, and Range Islet bearing 
 260 true (SW by^ W % W mag.), in 7 fathoms, sticky bottom. 
 The best entrance is in mrd-channel northeastward of Round Island, 
 and then follow the northeast shore at a distance of 300 yards. The 
 principal danger is a spit, bare only at extreme low water, which 
 extends 600 yards 120 true (E by S mag.) from Round Island; the 
 range of North Head and the western entrance point of the bay leads 
 over the easterly edge of the spit, and vessels should keep eastward 
 of this range when Range Islet bears 230 true (SSW % W mag.). 
 The head of the harbor southeastward of Quartz Point is shoal. 
 
 There is an abandoned coal mine on the west side of Zachary Bay. 
 
 UNGA STRAIT, 
 
 separating Unga Island from the Alaska Peninsula, is 2% miles 
 wide in its narrowest part, between the sand spit on the north side 
 of Unga Island and Cape Aliaksin on the peninsula. Depths of 16 
 to 30 fathoms are found in this part of the strait. A vessel should 
 keep % mile off either shore. 
 
 A patch of what looked like growing kelp was seen 1.1 miles 
 true (N by W % W mag.) from the sand spit on the north shore of 
 
182 SHUMAGIN ISLANDS. 
 
 Unga Island. The least depth found in the locality is 22 fathoms 
 and no trace of this kelp was found in 1915 by a surveying vessel. 
 However, as a precautionary measure, this spot should be avoided 
 by deep-draft vessels. 
 
 Currents. In general, currents set in the direction of all courses 
 from Sand Point to Pavlof Bay. In Unga Strait a 0.4 knot current 
 will generally be found setting westward; it does not change with 
 the tide except between Unga and Popof Reefs, where a tidal cur- 
 rent with a velocity of 1 knot, at strength, sets northward on the 
 flood tide and southward on the ebb. 
 
 CAPE ALIAKSIN TO BELKOFSKI. 
 
 The surveys of this region consist of a few lines of soundings in the 
 channel from Cape Aliaksin to Volcano Bay, and of complete surveys 
 of Volcano Bay, the north and west sides of Dolgoi Island, Goloi and 
 the Iliasik Islands, the passages between the various islands, and 
 the waters for about 3 miles westward of the Iliasik Islands. 
 
 Beaver Bay lies west of Cape Aliaksin and is 3 j/2 miles wide at the 
 entrance. It wis not examined, but a narrow opening or "hole in 
 the wall" was seen at the head of it, which probably leads to Otter 
 Bay. Otter Bay is reported to be closed by a shingle spit. On the 
 western side of Beaver Bay the land is low, and rises gradually for 
 12 miles west-sou thwestward. The shore is not much indented and 
 consists of a line of low cliffs with occasional waterfalls. The point 
 on the west side of Beaver Bay is called McGintys Point, 
 
 A single line of soundings at a distance of 2 miles from the shore 
 showed depths less than 10 fathoms, irregular bottom, for a distance 
 of 5 miles southwestward of the southwest point at the entrance of 
 Beaver Bay. The least depth found was about 4 fathoms at a point 
 2 miles from shore and 7.4 miles 300 true (W by N mag.) from Bay 
 Point (Nigger Head), Unga Island. 
 
 Hair Seal Cape at the entrance to Pavlof Coal Bay, is low and diffi- 
 cult to recognize. It terminates in a flat-topped mound 100 feet 
 high, connected to the mainland by a low neck of land. Lying 3 
 miles eastward of it is a southerly projecting point which appears to 
 be cut off to form an island ; and 1 mile east-northeastward of this in 
 turn is a rocky ledge 0.8 mile offshore and showing 8 feet above water. 
 Both these may be picked up when skirting the shore in foggy 
 weather; a vessel following the shore will be in 18 fathoms when 
 heading for the ledge, as she proceeds westward. Abreast of this 
 ledge, about }/% mile inshore from the beach, is a hog-back mountain 
 1,100 feet high. 
 
 Moses Rocks consist of two breakers about 0.3 mile apart, which 
 lie 0.6 mile southward and south-sou thwestward from Hair Seal Cape, 
 and 270 true (WSW )4 m ag.) from the end of the point 3 miles east- 
 ward of Hair Seal Cape. The lead gives no warning of these breakers. 
 A depth of 10 fathoms, irregular bottom, and no development, was 
 found 1 mile south-southeastward of Hair Seal Cape. 
 
 Pavlof Coal Bay is a good shelter for small vessels in northerly 
 weather. It looks east-northeastward up a broad valley, behind 
 the 1,100-foot hill already mentioned, and is entered on a 65 true 
 (NE }/8 E mag.) course. To avoid Moses Rocks when entering, round 
 the cape at a distance of 0.3 mile in 11 fathoms, or at a distance of 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA. 183 
 
 1 J miles in deeper water, following the shore from Broad Cape. A 
 depth of 4 fathoms was found near the middle of the bay north-north- 
 westward of Hair Seal Cape, and no sounding was done farther north- 
 ward and eastward. 
 
 Broad Cape has a bold shore, curved in outline; there are two 
 mountains on it, close together, about 1,800 feet high There are 
 two small islands near the shore between Pavlof Coal Bay and the 
 cape. There are 27 to 60 fathoms 1 J miles off the cape. 
 
 Pavlof Bay was not examined. The course from Broad Cape to 
 Volcano Bay was sounded over and found safe. The west shore of 
 Pavlof Bay is called Long Beach. 
 
 Arch Point, the north point at the entrance to Volcano Bay, is 
 moderately low with cliffs about 100 feet high at the water, and is 
 joined by a low neck to the high ground farther back. It is under- 
 cut in several places, forming caves and arches. The eastern part of 
 the cliffs are of basalt of a marked columnar structure, appearing like 
 a vast stockade. The rock is dark near the water, changing to light 
 brown above. The land back" of it is grassy. Deep water extends 
 close to the south side of the point. A rock with 11 feet over it lies 
 a little southward of a line from Arch Point to the north end of Dolgoi 
 Island, and on the range of Bluff Point and the southeasterly tangent 
 of Moss Cape. Broken ground, on which the least depth found is 
 about 6 fathoms, and which should be avoided, extends J^ mile east- 
 ward from the 11-foot spot. 
 
 Volcano Bay is free from rocks and shoals, except near the shores 
 which should be given a berth of about y% mile. The shoaling is 
 abrupt from about 30 fathoms to the north side of the bay. Shelter, 
 except from southeasterly winds, and good anchorage may be had 
 near its head in 10 fathoms, sticky bottom. Shelter for small vessels 
 from southeasterly winds may be had in 2 fathoms behind the sand 
 spit in the northwest corner. Fresh water can be obtained here. 
 Rocks and ledges extend 500 to 700 yards from the shore between 
 this spit and Bear Bay. The inner part of Bear Bay can be entered 
 only by pulling boats. A fair anchorage, exposed only to northeast 
 winds, can be had in the middle of the entrance to Bear Bay, in 15 to 
 20 fathoms. The lagoon on the north side of Volcano Bay is full of 
 bowlders and is nearly dry at low water. 
 
 PAVLOF ISLANDS. 
 
 This group consists of Wosnesenski, Ukolnoi, Poperechnoi, Dolgoi, 
 Goloi, and the two Iliasik Islands. Between Unga Island and Dolgoi 
 Island the islands and bare rocks are fairly well located. The sur- 
 veyed area near Dolgoi Island and the coast southwestward to Thin 
 Point are shown on chart 8703. 
 
 Jude Island is about 150 feet high, and about y^ mile across, round 
 in profile, grassy on top, and rocky at the shore. There was a herd 
 of about 200 sea lions on it in 1913. Deep water extends close to the 
 northwest side of the island. Dangerous rocks may be found on a 
 line from Jude Island to Bay Point and from Jude Island to Wos- 
 nesenski Island. Breakers were seen in these localities and a vessel 
 should keep 1 mile or more northward. 
 
 Wosnesenski Island has a rocky, flat-topped peak 1,200 feet high 
 near the southeast point, and the remainder of it is lower; there is a 
 
184 PAVLOF ISLANDS. 
 
 lagoon occupying the northeast portion and a small settlement on 
 the north shore. A vessel may anchor in the bight on the north 
 shore J^ mile westward of a bare ledge. Otherwise the shore seems 
 foul all around, and depths of 10 to 15 fathoms are found northeast- 
 ward for 2 or 3 miles and probably dangerous rocks exist also. 
 
 Ukolnoi Island is steep and bold at the northwest point. East of 
 the island are several rocks and ledges showing above water as far as 
 the longitude of Wosnesenski Island, and there appears to be foul 
 ground right across. In case it should be necessary to pass through 
 a channel might be found by skirting Wosnesenski Island. Along 
 the south shore of Ukolnoi Island there are several breakers 0.3 to 1.8 
 miles offshore. 
 
 Poperechnoi Island has rugged cliffs 1,300 feet high along its north- 
 east shore. There is a rock awash at half tide 1.3 miles from the 
 northwest point of it, on a line toward Wosnesenski Island, and 
 another breaker 1.3 miles east-northeastward of this rock. Still 
 farther east is a pinnacle rock well above water, in the middle of the 
 strait. No sounding has been done. 
 
 Dolgoi Island, 11 miles across and grass covered, is divided into 
 two mountain masses by Dolgoi Harbor and the lowland at its head. 
 The greatest heights at the east and west ends of the island are 1,450 
 and 1,510 feet, respectively. The shore is generally abrupt and 
 high. The north point of the island is an overhanging cliff. 
 
 Bluff Point, the northwest end of Dolgoi Island, is a rocky head- 
 land 50 feet high with a grassy slope eastward. Deep water extends 
 fairly close to the northwest end of the island. The south part of the 
 island is particularly bold, the cliffs being several hundred feet high. 
 At the middle of the southeast side is a headland with a cliff 920 feet 
 high. 
 
 Dolgoi Cape, the south point of Dolgoi Island, is marked by several 
 large, detached rocks a few yards off the shore line. 
 
 Dolgoi Harbor (charts 8703 and 8851) is the safest and most com- 
 modious harbor in this part of Alaska, giving perfect shelter and 
 freedom from williwaws. There are two islets on the west side of 
 the entrance and two larger islands inside the harbor. 
 
 To enter Dolgoi Harbor, steer 20 true (N y% E mag.) for the highest 
 point (500 feet) of the ridge at the head of the harbor showing west- 
 ward of the two islands in the harbor, and pass 200 yards or more 
 eastward of the outer one of the two islets on the west side of the 
 entrance. Pass westward of the first island in the harbor, favoring 
 if anything the island side. 
 
 The deeper passage then leads between the two islands in Dolgoi 
 Harbor, talking care to give the north end of the south island a berth 
 of over 150 yards, and the southeast end of the north island a berth 
 of over 300 yards; the best course through is about east (mag.). Or, 
 vessels can take the passage west of the upper island, which has a 
 depth of about 4 fathoms, by keeping the island aboard at a distance 
 of about 200 yards. Anchorage can be selected anywhere inside the 
 island, the depths being 7 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom, with no out- 
 lying dangers. Water can be had from the waterfall on the eastern 
 shore abreast the first island. The passage eastward of the first 
 island is not recommended. 
 
 Dolgoi Harbor is easily approached with the aid of the chart, passing 
 on either side of Goloi Island. The principal outlying dangers in the 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA. 185 
 
 approach are two rocks with 1 foot over them, which lie about on 
 the range of the east point of Goloi Island and the end of the spit 
 at the west end of Dolgoi. One rock lies 0.7 mile 135 true (SE by E 
 y% E mag.) from the east end of Goloi Island; the other rock lies 0.9 
 mile 222 true (SSW y % W mag.) from the cluster of rocks at the 
 southeast side of the entrance of Dolgoi Harbor. 
 
 Goloi Island is 970 feet high ani the sides are generally abrupt 
 except at the two sand spits, one at the west end, the other at the 
 middle of the northeast side of the island. 
 
 Iliasik Islands are each about 2.7 miles long and 0.7 mile wide. 
 They are both high and generally have cliffs at the water. Viewed 
 from Cape Bold they appear as three islands, as Inner Iliasik is 
 nearly divided by a low neck of land into parts about 800 feet high. 
 The high north end of Outer Iliasik is also separated by low ground 
 from the rest of the island. There are ledges and kelp extending 
 about 200 yards from the east side and about y mile from the west 
 side and southeast end of Inner^ Iliasik. Outer Iliasik is surrounded 
 by ledges and kelp to a distance of }^ mile in places; bare locks and 
 foul ground extend J^ mile west-southwestward from the west end 
 of the island. Growing kelp was seen midway between the islands 
 in midsummer. 
 
 From the north point of Inner Iliasik Island there is a reef extend- 
 ing to the mainland. Just east of the mainland end of the reef and 
 close to the shore is a large bowlder which is easily recognized. There 
 is little depth on the reef near the island, and about 8 feet on the 
 greater part of it. Near the mainland a depth of 11 to 12 feet can 
 be taken across the reef by passing 100 to 300 yards off the large 
 bowlder on a course parallel to the shore. The passage is used by 
 local fishing vessels of about 6 feet or less draft, and is not recom- 
 mended for any but light-draft vessels; the tendency is to cross too 
 far from the large bowlder. 
 
 Sandman Reefs, a large area of foul ground with numerous islands, 
 islets, and rocks, extends in a southerly direction from Deer and Outer 
 Iliasik Islands almost to the Sannak Islands, and in an easterly direc- 
 tion to beyond Pinnacle Rock. This area is unsurveyed and the 
 passage between them and the Sannak group should be used with 
 great caution. 
 
 BELKOFSKI TO IKATAN BAY. 
 
 Belkofski, a native settlement, consists of a church and about 
 25 houses. The church is painted white and is prominent. Vessels 
 anchor off the village in 10 fathoms and land goods on the sand and 
 bowlder beach unless southerly weather makes the surf too heavy. 
 
 Belkofski Bay is deep and free from hidden dangers so far as known, 
 except for reefs and ledges near the shore. There are rocks 600 yards 
 off Cape Belkofski, the east point of entrance. Vessels entering 
 should give the shore a good berth, as the bay has not been surveyed. 
 A mile north of Cape Belkofski and running in range with it is a 
 long, high ridge, the upper part bare and gray colored, the lower slopes 
 grassy, but with gray streaks where broken rock has slid from above. 
 
 Kitchen Anchorage is easy to reach and offers good shelter. Soft 
 mud is found at the head of the harbor in 10 or 12 fathoms. The 
 bottom slopes from 15 fathoms at the entrance to 10 fathoms near 
 
186 BELKOFSKI TO IKATAN BAY. 
 
 its head, the 3-fathom curve being about 150 yards offshore. A 
 fresh-water stream flows into the head of the harbor. 
 
 Bailey Harbor is the name .given to the indentation opening from 
 the northeast corner of Belkofski Bay 1 mile north of Kitchen Anchor- 
 age. It is entirely landlocked, being shut in by a broad shingle spit, 
 and is regarded as a secure anchorage for small vessels. There is 5 
 to 8 fathoms near its center, and about 9 fathoms through the middle 
 of the narrow entrance. In the absence of a survey it would be pru- 
 dent to anchor off the inner side of the shingle spit near the entrance. 
 There is a long, winding lagoon about 200 yards wide running inland 
 from the head of the bay. There is 8 fathoms 200 feet off the end of 
 the sand spit at the entrance to the lagoon. 
 
 Cape Bold is a rugged headland faced with vertical cliffs, above 
 which the mountain rises in steep rock-strewn slopes. Several 
 prominent bowlders stand a few yards off the shore. 
 
 Kings Cove is at the head of a deep, narrow valley stretching inland 
 between high ridges which rise from the shore on either side of the 
 cove. The outer bay is deep and free from dangers except those close 
 to shore. Vessels may anchor in 10 to 17 fathoms close to the sand 
 spit off the wharf and eastward from it. The bottom rises very 
 quickly not far from the shore. Vessels of considerable size (2,000 
 tons or more) can Me across the head of the cannery wharf. Willi- 
 waws are violent and even dangerous. To enter steer true (N by W 
 % W mag.) for the cannery wharf. Some local magnetic attraction 
 has been observed in the vicinity; 32 easterly variation was ob- 
 tained by observation at Vodapoini Point, the east entrance point to 
 Cold Bay, but the extent of the area affected is not known. 
 
 At the head of Kings Cove a long spit projects across from the east 
 side, and is overlapped by a shorter spit from the west side. From 
 the spits the inclosed lagoon extends 2 or 3 miles inland. There is 
 probably 3 fathoms over most of it and as much as 17 fathoms is 
 reported, but it can be entered only at high water. Small vessels 
 can anchor behind the western spit, but they should have local 
 knowledge to avoid the shoals near the entrance. The tidal cur- 
 rents have a velocity of about 5 knots at strength in the entrance, 
 sweeping eastward along the outer side of the long sand spit on the 
 ebb and keeping the bottom deep close to it. 
 
 Deer Island is a series of high conical peaks, many of which are so 
 nearly of the same elevation as to be recognized with difficulty from 
 different positions. The north shore is determined by a good recon- 
 naissance, but the limits only of the other sides are shown. Stag 
 Point, at its north end, is a short sand spit, except for which the shore 
 is rocky and steep. Back of the point is a high sugar-loaf peak. The 
 point may be recognized by a steep, high, triangular-shaped bluff at 
 the end of a shoulder of the peak which is conspicuous in the other- 
 wise sloping sides. Anchorage is reported on the east side of the 
 spit. West Cape is a ridge of bare rock ending in sheer faces at the 
 western extremity and at the two sides. 
 
 Approaching Deer Island from westward Fox Island shows up low 
 and irregular and is not very distinct until some time after passing 
 Umga Island, unless the weather is exceptionally clear. West Cape 
 of Deer Island shows as a flat-topped sugar loaf, apparently a detached 
 island, but later is seen as a part of Deer Island, while at the same 
 time Stag Point shows as a high sugar loaf beyond West Cape. South- 
 
ALASKA PENINSULA. 187 
 
 ward of West Cape are two barren, crater- like peaks, which form an 
 excellent landmark. 
 
 Current. Eastward of Deer Island the flood current sets north- 
 ward and the ebb southward. 
 
 North of Fox Island the flood current sets northeastward and the 
 ebb southwestward. 
 
 Fox Island Anchorage, on the east side of Fox Island, offers good 
 anchorage in 8 to 9 fathoms, soft bottom, well sheltered from the 
 wind and sea from northeastward to southeastward. Between West 
 Cape and the shacks at the mouth of the stream a valley extends 
 through southward to the west side of Deer Island. Bring this val- 
 ley to bear 184 true (S by E 34 E mag.) and steer for it, and anchor 
 when Amagat Island opens south of Fox Island. 
 
 Cold Bay is not surveyed and no description is available. 
 
 Thin Point is a long, grassy, low, flat or gently sloping, sand and 
 gravel point. The extremity is an eroded yellow sand bank, west- 
 ward from which is a reef bare at low water. On the point about 
 2^ miles from its end there is a symmetrical, dome-shaped, grassy 
 hill which stands out conspicuously as the only high ground near 
 the point. 
 
 An extensive, and probably dangerous, shoal, rocky area sur- 
 rounds Thin Point. Only a few Lines of soundings have been run 
 over this area, and as a measure of caution vessels should proceed 
 with care in this vicinity when crossing areas with a depth less than 
 10 fathoms. The principal part of the shoal is apparently on a line 
 of the point extended, and is in the form of a bar probably extend- 
 ing to the southwest side of Deer Island. The least depths found 
 by the survey near the sailing line between Fox Island and Umga 
 Island are 6 to 7 fathoms, but the bottom is very broken. A depth 
 of 14 feet was found 1.2 miles southward of Thin Point, and 3 fathoms 
 3.2 miles southeastward from the point. 
 
 Sozavarika Island is low and grassy and lies 3 miles southwestward 
 of Deer Island. It may be approached as close as 500 yards on its 
 northwestern side, where there is 15 fathoms, sand bottom. Be- 
 tween this island and Deer Island there are sunken rocks, and other 
 rocks are reported in the line between it and Umga Island. 
 
 Umga Island is small, rounded, grass covered, and rocky. It is 
 250 feet high and has a survey signal at its highest point. There is 
 40 fathoms close to the northwest and southwest sides, but foul 
 ground is said to exist eastward and southward of it. 
 
 Amagat Island is high, bold, and shows as two abutting parts; 
 the southeast part is 1,030 feet high and sharp, while the other part 
 is lower (600 feet high), broader, and flat-topped. 
 
 Morzhovoi Bay is not surveyed and no description is available. 
 
 SANNAK ISLANDS 
 
 are the southwestern islands of the groups off the southern side of 
 the Alaska Peninsula. They consist of two large islands, Sannak 
 and Caton Islands, and a great number of small islands and rocks 
 southward of the former, 20 Y^ miles long and 10 }/% miles wide, and 
 all bare of trees. Sannak Mountain, at the northwest end of Sannak 
 Island, is the prominent object seen in approaching the group, and 
 is about 3 miles long and 1 mile wide. It is a central peak (Sannak 
 
188 SANNAK ISLANDS. 
 
 Peak) 1,700 feet high, in latitude 54 28' N., longitude 162 45' W., 
 with a shoulder on its east side about 1,300 feet high and one on its 
 west side about 700 feet high.- At 4^ miles eastward from Saiinak 
 Peak this ridge again rises to over 200 feet, but all the remainder 
 of the group is but little over 100 feet high on the northern side, 
 decreasing to less than 40 feet high among the islands and rocks 
 forming the south side. 
 
 From time to time sunken rocks and breakers have been reported 
 in numerous localities northward and northwestward of Sannak 
 Islands; no definite information can be given about them, but their 
 reported positions are shown on Coast and Geodetic Survey Chart 
 8860. Crowley Rock is the only known danger. The eastern end 
 of Caton Island, the eastern end of the group, is fringed with reefs 
 and breakers to a distance, of over 1 mile. With perhaps the excep- 
 tion of Peterson Bay, the entire south side of Sannak Islands is 
 dangerous for a stranger to approach, especially the southwest end. 
 The principal outlving known dangers are: 
 
 Crowley Rock, lying 1J^ miles off the north side of Sannak Island 
 and 348 true (NNW % W mag.) from Sannak Peak, is several small 
 pinnacles very close together. The least depth found was about 11 
 feet, though there may be less, and there are depths of 9 to 15 fath- 
 oms close-to. 
 
 The western end of Sannak Island is fringed with rocks. The 
 westernmost known break lies 1 mile 267 true (WSW y% W mag.) 
 from the northwesternmost bare rocks of the group, and nearly 2 
 miles 281 true (W j^j S mag.) from the west point at the entrance 
 to Acherk Harbor. 
 
 A reef, with five rocks which show above water, lies between 4 
 and 5 miles southwestward of Clifford Island. What is supposed 
 to be Hennig Rock is the northernmost rock of the reef, and is nearly 
 on the range of Sannak Peak and the western end of Troitz Island, 
 the middle and largest Trinity Island, bearing 71 true (NE J^ E 
 mag.), distant 3^2 miles from the island. Oneida Rock, 4 miles 162 
 true (SE y% S mag.) from Hennig Rock, is the southernmost rock 
 of the reef. It lies 5 miles from Clifford Island and 224 true (SSW 
 34 W mag.) from Sannak Peak. 
 
 A narrow bank about 5 miles long in a 120 true (E by S mag.) 
 direction is reported to lie 7 miles southwestward of Clifford Island. 
 Depths of 2 to 7 fathoms were found on it, and it is marked by kelp 
 at slack water. The least depth was found at its northwest end, 
 which lies 12 miles 238 .true (SW Y 2 S mag.) from Sannak Peak. 
 
 Aleks Rock is in latitude 54 20' N., longitude 163 10' W., and 
 lies 16% miles 241 true (SW J^ S mag.) from Sannak Peak. It 
 is the farthest outlying known rock southwestward of Sannak Island. 
 The least depth found was 9 fathoms, but it is reported to break 
 with an ordinary swell. 
 
 Anderson and Leonard Rocks, Davidson Bank, southwest of Sannak 
 Island, long of doubtful existence, have been removed from the 
 charts. Repeated systematic searches of several months duration, 
 in all weathers, have failed to indicate shoals in the vicinity where 
 these rocks were reported. All reported positions of them are along 
 the edge of the bank. The bottom is extremely level and regular 
 to the 100-fathom curve and drops abruptly there. The vessels 
 making the survey carried submarine sentries set at 30 to 40 fathoms, 
 
SANNAK ISLANDS. 189 
 
 but no dangers were found. The current runs westerly; with an 
 easterly wind it reaches a strength of % knot. It runs south of 
 west when the wind is north of east, and runs north of west when 
 the wind is south of east. Along the 100-fathom curve it reaches a 
 strength of more than 1 knot. Tide rips are often seen here. 
 
 The anchorages at Sannak Islands are suitable for small or moderate 
 sized vessels only, and with the exception of Caton Harbor there are 
 no harbors affording shelter from all winds. 
 
 Acherk Harbor, at the northwest end of Sannak Island, is % mile 
 long and about l mile wide, and affords a contracted anchorage for 
 small vessels with protection from southerly and westerly winds, but 
 is exposed to winds from northwest to east, and a swell makes in 
 with strong westerly winds. There is a small settlement at the south- 
 east corner of the harbor, at which there is a boat landing, and water 
 can be obtained by boats. The mean rise and fall of the tide is 5.1 
 feet. 
 
 Approaching Acherk Harbor from northward and eastward there are 
 several reported dangers, the positions of which are shown on Coast 
 and Geodetic Survey Chart 8860, but the only known danger is 
 Crowley Rock ; the safest way to avoid this rock in coming from east- 
 ward is to keep within % mile of the north shore of Sannak Island 
 from abreast Northeast Point. Approaching from northwestward steer 
 for the western hill or shoulder (about 700 feet) of Sannak Mountain 
 on any bearing between 140 true (SE by E J^ E mag.) and 176 true 
 (SSE mag.) ; the former bearing leads about % m & e northward of 
 the northernmost bare rocks off the western end of Sannak Island, 
 and the latter bearing leads about % mile westward of Crowley Rock. 
 When off the entrance steer 193 true (S 3/ E mag.) for the middle 
 of the entrance. Keep in mid-harbor until the peaks of Sannak 
 Mountain are in line and the row of houses on the east side are directly 
 under them, and anchor in 5 to 6 fathoms, hard bottom. There are 
 sunken rocks off the points at the entrance, but they are marked by 
 kelp and can be readily avoided. 
 
 Murphys Crack is a small indentation about 1^ miles east of 
 Acherk Harbor. It is protected by a reef and affords shelter for the 
 boats of the fishermen who live here. 
 
 Pavlof Harbor is a small bay about 1 mile east of the eastern base of 
 Sannak Mountain. It is reported to be a good harbor for small craft, 
 but requires local knowledge because of the protecting reefs at the 
 entrance, and vessels drawing more than 7 or 8 feet can not use it. 
 There is a fishing station here. 
 
 Unimak Cove, 1J4 miles east of Pavlof Harbor, is an open bight, 
 and unimportant. 
 
 Johnsons Bay, \y^ miles west of Northeast Point, has an inner 
 harbor for boats and small craft, where there is a fishing station, and 
 vessels may anchor just inside the entrance to the bay, favoring the 
 east side, in about 9 fathoms, with protection from southerly and 
 westerly winds. There are some rocks close to the west point at the 
 entrance. 
 
 Northeast Bay, at the northeast end of Sannak Island, affords 
 anchorage with shelter from northwest and southwest winds, but is 
 exposed to easterly winds. Northeast Point, forming the north side 
 of the harbor, is about 100 feet high. Eagle Rock, about 50 feet high, 
 lies near the middle of the harbor; it is surrounded close-to by a 
 
190 SANNAK ISLANDS. 
 
 ledge which covers, and a sunken reef connects it with the head of 
 the harbor. Water can be obtained by boats at the head of the 
 harbor. 
 
 To enter give Northeast Point a berth of about ^ m ile and anchor 
 between the point and Eagle Rock, slightly favoring the point, with 
 Chernabura Island just open of Northeast Point, in 6 to 9 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom. 
 
 Lida Anchorage is a temporary anchorage in southerly winds, at 
 the west end of Caton Island, south of Lida Island, and which may 
 be entered on either side of the latter. 
 
 Approaching from eastward stand in near the visible rocks off the 
 east end of Lida Island, taking care to avoid the partially covered 
 reef, nearly J^ mile eastward of Lida Island, which extends in a 
 northerly direction from Caton Island. Anchor about ) mile from 
 Caton Island, and % to J^. mile southward of Lida Island, in 6 to 7 
 fathoms, sandy bottom; care should be taken not to approach the 
 south side of the anchorage. 
 
 Approaching from westward steer for the southwestern side of Caton 
 Island on a 144 true (SE % E mag.) course, passing about % mile 
 southward of Lida Island, and leaving a rock awash, lying J^ mile 
 northward from Wanda Island, about % mile on the starboard hand, 
 and anchor as directed above. The western end of Lida Island 
 should not be approached closer than J^ mile. 
 
 Caton Harbor is a large area with general depths of 2 to 3 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom, on the southwest side of Caton Island, protected on 
 the south by Elma Island and on the northwest by the islands and 
 reefs, above water in many places, between Caton Island and Sannak 
 Island. It is protected from all swells, and schooners of considerable 
 size have wintered here. The entrance is narrow and is close to the 
 west end of Caton Island; there is another entrance, crooked and 
 very narrow, between Elma Island and the southeast end of Sannak 
 Island, but its approach from southward is full of rocks and reefs, and 
 it should not be used except with local knowledge. 
 
 To enter Caton Harbor from northward proceed as directed for 
 entering Lida Anchorage from westward, and when well past the 
 rock awash, mentioned under Lida Anchorage, bring the south side 
 of the rock awash in range with Northeast Point astern, and stand in 
 keeping the range astern, course 125 true (ESE ^ E mag.), until 
 close to Caton Island. Then keep the bare rocks and kelp projecting 
 from Caton Island close aboard on the port hand, but do not approach 
 the kelp on the starboard hand; the least depth found in the nar- 
 rowest part of the passage was 4^ fathoms, shoaling inside to 3J^ 
 and 3 fathoms. When past the rocks on the port hand steer about 
 193 true (S Y^ E mag.) about J^ mile, and anchor in about 3 fathoms 
 with Princess Rock (high, grassy on top, extensive surrounding reefs 
 covered at high water) in line with Sannak Mountain, bearing 294 
 true (W J/2 N mag.). This anchorage is about ^ rnile from Caton 
 Island, and the same distance from the nearest reef on the western 
 side. Anchorage, with probably better shelter from northeast gales, 
 can be made off the sand beach on Caton Island, just inside the narrow 
 entrance. 
 
 Peterson Bay, on the south side of Sannak Island, is well protected 
 from all but southeast winds, especially for small vessels, of 12 feet 
 or less draft, which can anchor well inside the bay abreast the village 
 
SANNAK ISLANDS. 191 
 
 which is on the north side. The people living here say that in heavy 
 northeast winter gales a heavy swell makes into the bay. The bay 
 is over 1J^ miles long 300 true (W by N mag.), nearly J^ mile wide 
 at the entrance and J4 mu<e wide at the head, with about 5 fathoms 
 at the entrance and shoaling gradually toward the head, where there 
 is 12 to 14 feet in the widest part of the bay. There is a spot with 11 
 feet over it 350 yards off the south side and 344 true (NW by N mag.) 
 from the south point at the entrance. The mean rise and fall of the 
 tide is 4.4 feet. 
 
 To enter, in approaching from eastward give the east and southeast 
 sides of Caton Island a berth of about 2 miles to clear the reefs and 
 breakers which extend more than 1 mile offshore, and steer 262 
 true (SW by W Y% W mag.) passing 1 mile southward of Umla Island 
 and Telemitz Island. When the latter island is abeam bring the 
 tangent of the north side of Peterson Bay in line with the slight sad- 
 dle between Sannak Peak and the eastern shoulder of Sannak Moun- 
 tain, and run in on this range course 318 true (NW by W ^ W 
 mag.). When the south point "of the bay is about % mile distant, 
 haul northward a little so as to bring the north side of the bay in line 
 with the extreme southwest tangent of Sannak Mountain, and run in 
 on this range, course 311 true (WNW mag.), until the south point 
 at the entrance bears 187 true (S by E mag.). Then steer 294 true 
 (W j/2 N mag.) for the middle of the bay and select anchorage accord- 
 ing to draft. 
 
 IKATAN BAY AND ISANOTSKI STRAIT 
 
 separate Unimak Island from the Alaska Peninsula, and have been 
 used by light-draft craft, intended for service on the Yukon River, 
 in making the passage from Puget Sound ports to St. Michael. But 
 the strait is subject to very strong tidal currents, and the northern 
 entrance is shoal and requires local knowledge. Northerly winds 
 draw through the strait with great force. 
 
 Ikatan Bay, on the north side of Ikatan Peninsula, is about 3% 
 miles wide and 5 miles long in a southwest direction, and is free from 
 surf except with winds from north to east. Sankin Island, lying 1 
 mile from the north side of the bay, is high, with a rounded, grassy 
 summit; a reef extends from the island toward the nearest point of 
 the peninsula. Sankin Bay, northwest of Sankin Island, is reported 
 to be shoal. There is no passage north of Sankin Island. 
 
 The southwest end of Ikatan Bay is separated from Otter Cove by 
 an isthmus, 20 to 30 feet high; a river enters Ikatan Bay at the middle 
 of this lowland, and a submerged spit, which drops off abruptly to 
 over 20 fathoms, makes off from its mouth. 
 
 Approaching Ikatan Bay from southwestward the only known danger 
 is Pankof Breaker, lying a little over 2 miles 53 true (NE by N mag.) 
 from the southeast point at the entrance to East Anchor Cove. To 
 avoid the rock, round Cape Pankof at a distance of 1 mile and steer 
 325 true (NW % W mag.), following the northeastern coast of 
 Ikatan Peninsula at a distance of 1 mile. 
 
 There is a good anchorage in the bight on the west side of Ikatan 
 Point, the south point at the entrance to the bay, in about 9 fathoms, 
 sand and mud bottom, with protection from winds from southeast to 
 southwest; water can be conveniently obtained here. Salmon traps 
 will be seen in this bight. 
 
192 IKATAN BAY. 
 
 The best anchorage in Ikatan Bay from all southerly winds is on 
 its south side off the low divide leading to Dora Harbor, and 174 
 true (SSE J E mag.) from Sankin Island. In approaching this 
 anchorage bring Bird Island in sight over the middle of the lowland, 
 and anchor in any depth desired, as it shoals gradually to the beach. 
 Anchorage can also be made on the north side of the bay, 2J4 miles 
 westward of Sankin Island, in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, sheltered 
 from ordinary northerly winds, but badly exposed to easterly and 
 southerly winds. 
 
 Isanotski Strait has its southerly entrance at the northwest end of 
 Ikatan Bay. This entrance is narrow, and a reef projects from the 
 east point at the entrance, and another from the next point on the 
 west side inside the entrance, and the swirls around them show plainly. 
 In the southern and narrow part of the strait a mid-channel course 
 should be followed. 
 
 There is an extensive shoal, or flat, in the northern and widest 
 portion of the strait, lying eastward of the channel and southward of 
 the outlet into Bering Sea. The channel westward of the shoal is 
 said to have a depth of about 2 fathoms. The northern entrance is 
 obstructed by shoals, of a shifting nature, and can be used only by 
 light-draft vessels with local knowledge. 
 
 Traders Cove, on the eastern side of Isanotski Strait about 7 miles 
 above its entrance from Ikatan Bay, is a good anchorage. Morzhovoi, 
 a mission and native village, is on the south side. Fresh water can be 
 obtained at the southeast corner of the cove near the village. The 
 anchorage is in the middle of the cove off the village, with the Greek 
 church bearing about 111 true (E J^ S mag.), in 4^ fathoms, 
 muddy bottom. Strong winds and williwaws blow across the cove, 
 but the anchorage is good. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall in Ikatan Bay is 4.5 feet. 
 
 In the narrow southern part of Isanotski Strait the tidal currents 
 have a velocity of 7 to 9 miles or more, and it is said that there is 
 practically no slack and that the current turns about three hours 
 after high or low water in Ikatan Bay. 
 
 IKATAN PENINSULA, 
 
 the southeastern extremity of Unimak Island, is about 13 miles long 
 and is divided into three mountain masses and from Unimak Island 
 by low depressions which extend from West Anchor Cove to East 
 Anchor Cove, and from Dora Harbor and Otter Cove to Ikatan Bay. 
 
 Cape Pankof, the eastern end of Ikatan Peninsula, terminates in 
 three cliffs on the southern side, the highest about 1,200 feet, but on 
 the northern side there is a gentle slope to the low isthmus between 
 East and West Anchor Coves. Some bare rocks lie within % mile 
 from the cape, on the southern and eastern sides. 
 
 Pankof Breaker lies a little over 2 miles 53 true (NE by N mag.) 
 from the southeast point at the entrance to East Anchor Cove. It 
 is a pinnacle rock, judging from the appearance of the break, with 
 probably less than 10 feet over it and 13 to 25 fathoms close-to. 
 
 A rock, said to have about 4 fathoms over it and to break in a 
 southwest swell, is reported to lie about 2 miles 120 true (E by S 
 mag.) from Cape Pankof. 
 
IKATAN PENINSULA. 193 
 
 Bird Island, about ^ mile in extent, 750 feet high, and precipitous, 
 lies 2 miles from the south coast of Ikatan Peninsula, off the entrance 
 to Dora Harbor, and 8 miles westward from Cape Pankof. A sunken 
 reef connects the island with the western point at the entrance to 
 Dora Harbor, and there is no safe passage for vessels between. The 
 western end of the island should not be approached closer than ^ 
 mile. 
 
 East Anchor Cove, on the north side of Cape Pankof, is a good 
 anchorage except with winds from north to southeast. The cove is 
 large and easily entered, and the only known danger in the approach 
 is Pankof Breaker. To enter give the southeast point at the entrance 
 a berth of over y 2 mile, and select anchorage as desired in 7 to 10 
 fathoms. The cove is free from dangers if the shore be given a berth 
 of about J^ mile. 
 
 West Anchor Cove is a safe and commodious anchorage for any 
 kind of vessel, easy of access and departure at any time. The cove 
 is exposed to southerly weather^ but with East Anchor Cove on the 
 other side of the cape, safe and sheltered anchorage from any -ordinary 
 weather can be found in one or the other. The bottom is fine dark 
 sand in which the anchor holds well. There is a narrow shelf of 
 rocks along the shore at the east point of entrance, the outer edge 
 of which shows at half tide and probably breaks all the time. There 
 is 6 fathoms 70 yards off the visible end of the reef, with rapidly 
 deepening water outward from there. The rock, 15 feet high, in- 
 side the cove marks the western limit of dangers on this side. Inside 
 the cove rocky ledges extend not over 200 to 300 yards from the 
 north and south shores. Near the head of the cove, on the southeast 
 side, a rock column stands out prominently from the shore, marking 
 the upper limit of the anchorage for all but small craft. 
 
 Dora Harbor, on the south side of Ikatan Peninsula, 2 miles north 
 of Bird Island, affords good anchorage for small vessels, with pro- 
 tection from all winds and swell, especially for vessels of about 9 feet 
 or less draft, which can anchor near the head. The entire shore of 
 the harbor is fringed by ledges, partly bare at low water, to a distance 
 of about 300 yards. The reef extending J4 m il. e westward from the 
 eastern point of the entrance and that projecting from the western 
 point toward Bird Island afford protection from ordinary southerly 
 and westerly swell at the outer anchorage, but a heavy swell from 
 southward is uncomfortable. The inner harbor is a slight expansion 
 at the head with depths of 10 to 12 feet in the middle; there is a 
 fishing station and stream on its west side. 
 
 To enter Dora Harbor, steer for the west point at the entrance on a 
 334 true (NW mag.) course, passing % mile northeastward of Bird 
 Island. When the north end of Bird Island bears on the port beam 
 steer 350 true (NNW Yi W mag.). Keep in mid-harbor and anchor 
 with the east point at the entrance bearing 154 true (SE mag.) and 
 the west point 249 true (SW M W mag.) in about 5 fathoms. This 
 anchorage is about midway between the east point at the entrance 
 and a projecting point on the west side halfway up the harbor, and 
 the clear width of the anchorage is M mile. Vessels of 9 feet or less 
 draft may follow a mid-harbor course and anchor in the middle of 
 the inner harbor, off the fishing station, in 12 feet of w^ater. 
 31056 16 13 
 
194 UNIMAK ISLAND. 
 
 Otter Cove is an open bight at the northwest end of Ikatan Peninsula. 
 It is exposed to southerly winds and to the Pacific swell, and there 
 is always a heavy surf. Northerly winds blow with great violence 
 over the low isthmus separating it from Ikatan Bay. The only safe 
 boat landing is in its eastern corner. A rock awash at low water lies 
 over J/2 m ^ e from the shore of Ikatan Peninsula and 3J^ miles 
 northwestward from Bird Island. 
 
 UNIMAK ISLAND, OTTER COVE TO CAPE SARICHEF. 
 
 This coast, having a length of about 70 miles, has cliffs in places, 
 with lower land and sand beaches between, and is backed by the 
 high mountain masses of the central part of the island. The coast 
 is fairly regular, with no indentations of any extent, and there are 
 no harbors nor sheltered anchorages. The coast is exposed to the 
 ocean swell, and there is generally a heavy surf, which makes landing 
 dangerous. From the few soundings made, the 10-fathom curve 
 is less than % m ^ e from the beach in most places, and there are 
 no known outlying dangers. 
 
 Cape Lazaref is the southwesternmost of three high cliffs, with 
 sand beaches between, which are found in a distance of about 8 miles 
 southwestward of Otter Cove, and is 1,000 feet high. From the 
 sharp point of the cape a reef extends \y% miles southeastward, 
 consisting of two rocks about 150 feet high and another about 70 
 feet high midway between them, and a multitude of low rocks close 
 together. The outer pinnacle lies 18^ miles 258 true (SW by 
 W )^ W mag.) from Cape Pankof. Anchorage, with fairly good 
 protection from westerly winds, can be made northeastward of this 
 reef, about J^ mile southward of a bunch of rocks lying y% mile off 
 the eastern side of the cape, in 10 fathoms, sandy bottom. A rocky 
 islet about 130 feet high lies 1^ miles westward of the cape and ^ 
 mile from the beach. 
 
 From Cape Lazaref the coast trends westward, curving gradually 
 southward for about 30 miles, forming a broad, open bight called 
 TJnimak Bay, having a sandy beach. This sand beach is broken by 
 a lava bed 8^ miles westward of Cape Lazaref, and by three conical 
 hills, the southernmost reaching the water and formed into several 
 columns, making a small projection (Rukavitsie Cape), 15 miles west- 
 ward of Cape Lazaref. At the southern end of the sand beach there 
 is a broad valley, the south point of which is a sharp projection, with 
 steep sides and about 350 feet high, which forms a small cove 
 (Promontory Cove) open northward, which is reported to afford 
 anchorage with protection from southerly winds but not from the 
 swell. The bottom is sandy and the shoaling toward the beach 
 gradual. 
 
 Cape Lutke, 2}^ miles southward of Promontory Cove, is a cliff 
 538 feet high, joined by a lower ridge to the higher land farther 
 back, and is the southwestern head of Unimak Bay. At this point 
 the coast changes direction to' southwestward and then westward 
 for 13 miles to Seal Cape. 
 
 Arch Point, 3 miles northeastward of Seal Cape, is a rocky projec- 
 tion 40 feet high with an arch through the extremity of the point. 
 
 Promontory Hill, 5 miles northeastward from Seal Cape, is a short 
 ridge, about 1,130 feet high, having a northwest and southeast 
 
UNIMAK ISLAND. 195 
 
 direction, and detached from the interior highland. Its outlines 
 are smoothly rounded and there is a slight saddle in the ridge, the 
 whole having a bare, brown appearance. It is isolated and promi- 
 nent, and together with Scotch Cap is a good landmark for the 
 eastern entrance to Unimak Pass. 
 
 Seal Cape is not particularly noticeable, but the locality is well 
 marked by Promontory Hill, Arch Point, and Scotch Cap. 
 
 From Seal Cape around to Cape Sarichef, a distance of 19 miles, 
 the coast of Unimak Island has a number of projecting points, is 
 low in appearance, and slopes gradually upward to the highland of 
 the island. There are low bluffs in places, but none so high as Scotch 
 Cap or which can be mistaken for it. There are no dangers if the 
 coast be given a berth of J/ mile. 
 
 Scotch Cap lighthouse is about 1% miles eastward of Scotch Cap 
 in approximately latitude 54 24' N, longitude 164 45' W. The 
 structure is a white, octagonal building and tower, and there are a 
 number of buildings near it. -The light is fixed white, third order, 
 elevated 90 feet above high water, and should be visible 15 miles in 
 clear weather when bearing from 277 true (W by S mag.) through 
 north to 108 true (E mag.). The fog signal is a 10-inch compressed- 
 air whistle giving blasts of 5 seconds' duration separated by silent 
 intervals of 55 seconds. Light is discontinued from November 15 
 to March 20, excepting the last 10 days of each intervening month, 
 during which period the mail boat is expected. 
 
 Scotch Cap is a precipitous cliff of rock which extends along the 
 beach nearly 1 mile. It is 420 feet high at its highest point and 
 becomes lower at either end. Back of the face of the cliff the land 
 slopes downward for nearly 1 mile, and then rises by a uniform slope 
 to the higher land of the island. In front of the cliff, 50 yards from 
 its foot, is a large pinnacle rock 172 feet high. Scotch Cap can be 
 seen many miles in clear weather and is unmistakable. 
 
 Cape Sarichef, the western end of Unimak Island, is the eastern point 
 at the northwestern entrance to Unimak Pass. The cape is about 
 100 feet high, with steep grassy sides, and the land back of the cape 
 slopes gradually upward to Pogromni Volcano. There is a black lava 
 bed along the beach south of the cape, and 2 miles south of the cape 
 there is a flat rock barely detached from the coast. 
 
 A bank of black sand extends 2.9 miles 267 true (WSW J W 
 mag.) from Cape Sarichef; there are depths of 10 to 15 fathoms over it, 
 and there are heavy tide rips, overfalls, and eddies; the current reaches 
 an estimated force of 2 knots. The banks appear to be an extension 
 in a west-northwesterly direction of the old lava flow which may be 
 seen 1 mile southward of Cape Sarichef lighthouse. No dangerous 
 rocks were found. A reef is reported to extend about % mile from 
 the shore about 1 mile northwestward from the lighthouse. 
 
 Cape Sarichef lighthouse, on the summit of the cape, is in approxi- 
 mate latitude 54 36' N, longitude 164 56' W. The structure is a 
 white, octagonal building and tower, and .there are a number of 
 buildings near it. The light is occulting white, light 25 seconds, 
 eclipse 5 seconds, third order, elevated 126^2 f ee t above the water, 
 and should be visible 17^ miles in clear weather when bearing from 
 16 true (N^W mag.) through east to 218 true (Sbv W % Wmag.). 
 The fog signal is a first-class, compressed-air siren, giving blasts of 3 
 
196 UNIMAK ISLAND. 
 
 seconds' duration separated by alternate silent intervals of 5 and 49 
 seconds. The light is discontinued from November 15 to March 20 
 except during the last 10 days of each intervening month, during 
 which period the mail boat is expected. 
 
 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 This chain extends from Unimak Island to Attu Island, a distance 
 of over 900 miles. The islands fall into various groups, of which the 
 Fox Islands, Islands of the Four Mountains, Andreanof Islands, Rat 
 Islands, and Near Islands are the most important. 
 
 The topographic features are uniformly rugged; the islands are 
 mountainous, and the shores bold, with numerous offlying islets, 
 rocks, and reefs. In the absence of surveys, the only safe assumption 
 is that these features are duplicated beneath the surface of the water. 
 At all times in approaching the land, therefore, vessels should be 
 navigated with great caution. 
 
 Aside from the lack of surveys, the greatest difficulties in navigating 
 this region are due to a combination of prevailing thick weather and 
 currents which, largely influenced by weather conditions, attain con- 
 siderable velocity at times. A statement embodying all available 
 information regarding these currents, is given on page 23. 
 
 FOX ISLANDS AND PASSES. 
 
 The three large islands, Unimak, Unalaska, Umnak, and their 
 associated islands, lying westward of Alaska Peninsula, are known 
 as the Fox Islands. The islands of this group are high, bare of trees, 
 and generally grass covered, and terminate generally at the water in 
 precipitous cliffs. Most of them have numerous pinnacle rocks close 
 to the shore. They are frequented by birds in enormous numbers, 
 and immense flocks of them are frequently met with when in their 
 vicinity. The highest peaks which, in clear weather, are prominent 
 landmarks for mariners are : 
 
 Bound Top Mountain on Unimak Island in latitude 54 48' 09" N 
 and longitude 163 35 ' 35 " W is a rounded summit 6,155 feet high, 
 surrounded by snow fields. 
 
 Shishaldin Volcano, on Unimak Island, 9,387 feet high, in latitude 
 54 45' 23" N and longitude 163 58' W, is cone-shaped and very 
 regular in outline, with faint wreaths of smoke and vapor at times 
 drifting from its summit. It is for the me st part snow clad, except 
 where the rocky cliffs and projections afford no lodgment. 
 
 Isanotski Peaks, on Unimak Island, in latitude 54 46' N and longi- 
 tude 163 43' 30" W, is seen close eastward of Shishaldin, very 
 rugged, and having a broken or castellated double summit, the high- 
 est 8,088 feet high. The summit is bare and looks as though com- 
 posed of great vertical rock masses. 
 
 Pogromni Volcano, about 8 miles from the western end of Unimak 
 Island, in latitude 54 34' 16" N and longitude 164 41' 30" W, is 
 6,500 feet high, a snow clad, conical peak, vertical ridges cropping 
 through the snow. Pogromni is a guiding landmark in clear weather 
 in making Unimak Pass, both from southward and from Bering Sea. 
 
 Makushin Volcano, on the northwestern side of Unalaska Island, 
 in latitude 53 52' 20" N and longitude 166 50' 40" W (approxi- 
 
ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 197 
 
 mately), is 5,691 feet high, and in clear weather is a prominent land- 
 mark for vessels bound to Dutch Harbor from Bering Sea. 
 
 These mountains are excellent landmarks if they can be seen, but 
 in summer they are often obscured by fogs or low-lying clouds. The 
 lower hills and islands and objects near the sea level generally furnish 
 the available landmarks. 
 
 From southward and eastward, bound for Bering Sea, there are 
 three passes used by deep-draft vessels, known collectively as the 
 Fox Islands Passes, and respectively as Unimak, Akutan, and Unalga 
 Passes. The largest and most desirable one to use in thick and foggy 
 weather is the eastern one, Unimak Pass. This is clear of hidden 
 dangers, the widest of the three, and is comparatively free from tide 
 rips. It is especially recommended for sailing vessels, and for 
 steamers bound northward direct. Akutan and Unalga Passes are 
 convenient, with daylight and clear weather, for steam vessels bound 
 to Unalaska Bay, but, being narrow and having strong currents and 
 tide rips at times, are not recommended for sailing vessels bound 
 north. A fair wind is almost" necessary for the passage, and from 
 southward this would bring thick weather. The minor passes 
 between the islands westward of Unimak Pass are described under 
 their several headings following. 
 
 Soundings. Southward of tlie passes the 100-fathom curve is 20 
 to 40 miles offshore, and when inside of this depth the color of the 
 water will have changed from dark blue to light green. This change 
 in the color of the water is the best indication the mariner has in 
 thick weather to warn him of his approach to land and that he is on 
 soundings. Southwest of Unimak Pass the 50-fathom curve is 3 to 
 5 miles offshore, and in thick weather the greatest caution should be 
 used in approaching inside of this depth. Southeast of Unimak Pass 
 the water shoals rapidly from 100 fathoms to Davidson Bank, on 
 which a least depth of 36 fathoms is marked 27 miles from Ugamak 
 Island. 
 
 Tidal currents and tide rips. In the vicinity of the passes the 
 tidal currents have considerable velocity, and their direction and 
 times of change are uncertain; they are also greatly influenced by 
 winds. In navigating near the entrances to the passes the current 
 should be kept in mind and precautions be taken to guard against 
 being carried into dangerous localities, especially in thick weather. 
 
 In Unimak Pass the observed maximum velocity of the current is 
 about 4 miles per hour, and its velocity is greater near Scotch Cap 
 and Ugamak Island than in the middle of the pass. The northerly 
 (flood) current begins about three hours before the time of high water 
 at Kodiak and the southerly (ebb) current begins about three hours 
 before the time of low water at Kodiak as taken from the Coast and 
 Geodetic Survey Tide Tables. The tide rips, during the largest tides 
 and when a strong wind opposes the current, are strong but not dan- 
 gerous to well-found sailing vessels or steamers. 
 
 In Akutan Pass the currents have an estimated maximum velocity 
 of 6 to 7 miles per hour. The northerly (flood) current begins about 
 three hours before the time of high water at Kodiak and the southerly 
 (ebb) current begins about three hours before the time of low water 
 at Kodiak as taken from the Coast and Geodetic Survey Tide Tables. 
 There are strong tide rips during the periods of largest tides; but 
 the strongest rips are not generally found in the middle of the pass. 
 
198 FOX ISLANDS. 
 
 With a current setting northward the rips will be strongest in the 
 northern entrance from Cape Kalekta and Akutan Island to Unalga 
 Island, and with a current setting southward the strongest rips 
 will be found at the southern entrance to the pass. When the 
 current setting north is opposed by a strong northerly wind the 
 tide rips in the northern entrance to the pass are dangerous, and 
 it is advisable not to use this pass in a gale. Under ordinary con- 
 ditions, when there are no strong winds, this pass can be used by 
 full-powered steamers at any stage of the current, but sailing vessels 
 should not use it unless they happen to enter at or near slack water. 
 It is stated that the most dangerous rips occur at the north entrance 
 to the pass. 
 
 In Unalga Pass the currents have an estimated maximum velocity 
 of about 9 miles an hour, and the times for the beginning of flood 
 and ebb currents are the same as for Akutan Pass. The tide rips 
 prevail under the same general conditions as in Akutan Pass, except 
 that they are, if anything, heavier and more dangerous in a gale. 
 
 The duration of both flood and ebb is subject to considerable 
 variation in these passes, so that too much reliance should not be 
 placed upon the times given above. 
 
 Assistant J. J. Gilbert, commanding Coast and Geodetic Survey 
 steamer "Pathfinder," who surveyed the Fox Islands Passes in 1901, 
 states that "they [tide rips in Akutan and Unalga Passes] occur 
 during spring tides, when the currents are strong, and usually when 
 there is a strong wind or swell from the other direction; this condi- 
 tion is not indispensable, for, on one occasion, there was neither 
 wind nor sea, when suddenly we were in the midst of the rips, and 
 had wet things pretty thoroughly before the hawse pipes could be 
 closed." 
 
 When the tide rips are heaviest in Akutan and Unalga Passes, 
 the water is broken into heavy choppy seas from all directions, which 
 board the vessel and make it difficult to keep control even of large, 
 powerful steamers. 
 
 The general conditions of fog and weather described on page 228 
 apply also to the vicinity of the Fox Islands Passes. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, UNIMAK PASS. 
 
 Directions from Cape Pankof through Unimak Pass to Cape 
 Kalekta are given on page 152. 
 
 In the directions following no allowance has been made for the 
 tidal currents, which have considerable velocity in Unimak Pass; 
 this should be kept in mind in order to make the courses good. 
 
 Unimak Pass is the widest of the Fox Islands Passes, being about 
 10 miles wide at its narrowest part, between Ugamak Island and 
 Scotch Cap. It is free from outlying dangers and dangerous tide 
 rips, and the tidal currents have less velocity than in the other passes. 
 Except near the shores, it is free from williwaws. It is the most 
 desirable pass for sailing vessels and for vessels not calling at Dutch 
 Harbor. The directions for approaching this pass are also good for 
 vessels desiring to pass through Akutan and Unalga Passes. 
 
 When approaching the passes from southward and eastward, care 
 must be taken to avoid the Sannak Reefs and Aleks Rock. A good 
 rule is to make longitude 164 W while still south of latitude 54 N 
 
UNIMAK PASS. 199 
 
 and then stand northwestward to make Seal Cape. If the weather 
 is very clear the mountains of Unimak Island may be seen and 
 recognized and the course shaped for Unimak Pass; but under ordi- 
 nary conditions Promontory Hill back of Seal Cape, Tigalda Island, 
 or Ugamak Island, will be the first land sighted. 
 
 If Tigalda Island is sighted at a distance when approaching Unimak 
 Pass, it will appear as a number of small, detached islands, but 
 when seen closer to it is one island with six distinct mountain ridges. 
 
 A 355 true (NNW mag.) course heading for Pogromni Volcano 
 will lead nearly for Seal Cape, passing about 4 miles eastward of 
 Ugamak Island. 
 
 If the weather is thick, soundings on Davidson Bank may be of 
 use in feeling the way in to the land. In the vicinity of Seal Cape 
 the coast is bold and may be approached with caution close enough 
 (from YL to % mile) to be seen and to be followed until some point is 
 recognized by which the vessel's position may be known. A vessel 
 should first be sure of her position before attempting to enter Unimak 
 Pass and in thick weather should not attempt the other passes. 
 
 In thick weather, if the land is made in the vicinity of Seal Cape, a 
 vessel may stand westward, following the beach and giving it a berth 
 of % mile or more until Scotch Cap lighthouse or Scotch Cap is made 
 and recognized. With Scotch Cap lighthouse bearing 18 true (N 
 mag.), distant 1 to 2 miles, steer 288 true (W mag.) for 6 miles, and 
 then steer 333 true (NW mag.), which should give the coast of 
 Unimak Island a berth of about 2^ miles, and the course made good 
 for about 11 miles should lead to a position 5 miles 254 true (SW 
 by W mag.) from Cape Sarichef. Or, if bound to Unalaska Bay, 
 when Scotch Cap lighthouse bears 18 true (N mag.), distant 1 to 2 
 miles, a 266 true (WSW mag.) course made good for 31 miles should 
 lead about 2 miles northward of Akun Head. 
 
 In coming from southeastward, when Ugamak Island is sighted 
 shape the course to pass about 2 miles northeastward of it, and then: 
 
 From a position 2 miles 63 true (NE mag.) from the northeast end 
 of Ugamak Island make good a 322 true (NW by W mag.) course 
 for 10 miles to a position with Scotch Cap lighthouse bearing 74 
 true (NE by E mag.), distant 5M miles. Then steer 333 true (NW 
 mag.), with the northeastern end of Ugamak Island astern, and give 
 the coast of Unimak Island a berth of about 2J^ miles; this course 
 made good for 13 Yz miles should lead to a position with Cape Sarichef 
 lighthouse bearing 74 true (NE by E mag.), distant 5 miles. Then 
 follow the directions for Bering Sea on page 269. 
 
 Or, if bound to Unalaska Bay, from a position 2 miles 18 true (N 
 mag.) of the northeast end of Ugamak Island make good a 280 true 
 (W % S mag.) course for 26 miles, which should lead to a position 2 
 miles northward of the eastern head at the north end of Akun Island. 
 Then steer 268 true (WSW Y W mag.) about 5 miles to a position 
 2 miles 349 true (NNW Y 2 W mag.) from Akun Head. Then foUow 
 the directions on page 152. 
 
 on the southwest side at the southeast entrance to Unimak Pass, lies 
 10 miles southward of Unimak Island, and its southeast point is in 
 latitude 54 13' N, longitude 164 46' W. The island is rugged, with 
 cliffs at the shore, and 1,000 foot high at the eastern end, where there 
 
200 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 is a sharp peak. Near the middle of the island there is a knob nearly 
 as high as the eastern end. The island is fringed with kelp and bare 
 rocks close-to, but there are no known outlying dangers. There is 
 no harbor at the island. Aiktak Island lies % mile southward of 
 Ugamak Island; its south side is a cliff about 600 feet high. 
 
 Ugamak Strait, between Ugamak and Aiktak Islands on the north 
 and Kaligagan Island on the south, has a width of 3 miles, and there 
 are no known hidden dangers. Passing 1 mile southward of Aiktak 
 Island, a 290 true (W J N mag.) course, heading for the north end 
 of Akun Island, is considered sale, and carries through the passage in 
 mid-channel. 
 
 TIGALDA ISLAND, 
 
 the south side of which is in latitude 54 04' N, is separated from 
 Ugamak Island by Ugamak Strait. The island is 11 miles long and 
 about 3>^ miles wide, and consists of six mountain ridges 1,200 to 
 1,800 feet high, separated by low valleys having a northwesterly 
 direction. The western end of the island is comparatively low. 
 Kaligagan Island, lying in Ugamak Strait % mile off the northeast 
 end of Tigalda Island, is % mile long and about 300 feet high. A 
 large number of high, bare rocks extend 2J^ miles westward of Kali- 
 gagan Island, and the outermost lies 1% miles from Tigalda Island. 
 Two rounded rocks He % mile off the south side of Tigalda Island, 
 and an islet 100 feet high lies close to the island midway between 
 these rocks and the western end of Tigalda Island. 
 
 Tigalda Bay, on the north side of Tigalda Island 3 miles from its 
 eastern end, is a sheltered anchorage except from northwest winds. 
 The bay is about % mile wide and 1^ miles long in a 108 true 
 (E mag.) direction, and has depths of 8 to 10 fathoms, rocky bottom. 
 The mean rise and fall of tides is 0.9 foot. 
 
 To enter Tigalda Bay from Ugamak Strait, pass J^ mile or more 
 northward and westward of the outermost bare rock, lying 2 J^ miles 
 westward of Kaligagan Island, and steer 204 true (S }/% W mag.) 
 for 214 miles. Tigalda Bay should then be opened on the port beam. 
 Enter the bay in mid-channel and select anchorage near the middle, 
 taking care not to approach the head nearer than about % mile. 
 
 Approaching from southwestward through Avatanak Strait, follow 
 the north side of Tigalda Island, giving it a berth of about 1 mile 
 until heading about 112 true (E % S mag.) for the entrance to the 
 bay; on this course Tanginak Islet, about 80 feet high, should be 
 astern and the highest peak (1,400 feet) close to the east end of 
 Tigalda Island should be ahead. Enter the bay and anchor as 
 directed in the preceding paragraph. 
 
 Derbin Strait, separating Tigalda and Avatanak Islands, is a little 
 over 1 mile wide, and there are no known hidden dangers. A mid- 
 channel course through the strait, 326 true (NW V^ W mag.), with 
 the northeast headland of Akun Island ahead, is considered safe. 
 
 AVATANAK ISLAND, 
 
 lying southwestward of Tigalda Island, is separated from Akun Island 
 by Avatanak Strait. The island is about 9 miles long and over 3 miles 
 wide at its eastern end, but the western half of the island averages 
 less than % mile wide. The middle of the island is a great depression 
 
FOX ISLANDS. 201 
 
 whose sides slope gently upward to the mountains at its eastern and 
 western ends, which are about 1,700 and 1,500 feet high, respectively. 
 Cluster?, of bare rocks extend about % mile off the southeast and west- 
 ends of the island, and Basalt Rock, about 30 feet high, lies in Avata- 
 nak Strait, about 1 mile off the north side of the island. There is no 
 secure anchorage. 
 
 Rootok Strait, separating Avatanak Island from Rootok Island, is a 
 little over 1 mile wide in its narrowest part, but the clear channel is 
 reduced by rocks on both sides to a width of about % mile; there are 
 no known hidden dangers when passing through in mid-channel. 
 The directions following are considered safe and lead in mid-channel. 
 
 Approaching from southeastward, steer for the north end of Rootok 
 Island on a 299 true (W by N mag.) course, leaving the east end of 
 the island ^ mile on the port hand. When the west end of Avatanak 
 Island bears abeam, steer about 332 true (NW mag.) and pass in 
 mid-channel between the bare rocks off the west end of Avatanak 
 Island and those close to the north end of Rootok Island. 
 
 . 
 
 ROOTOK ISLAND 
 
 is the western island on the southeast side of Avatanak Strait, and lies 
 3 miles southeastward from the southern end of Akun Island. The 
 island is 3 miles long and about 2 miles wide. There are three peaks 
 on its southern side, the highest 1,760 feet, and the island terminates 
 at the shore in cliffs. There is no secure anchorage. The southern 
 ends of Tigalda, Avatanak, and Rootok Islands are nearly in Une, 
 bearing 262 true (SW by W % W mag.). 
 
 Avatanak Strait is a broad channel separating Avatanak and 
 Rootok islands from Akun Island, and leads from Unimak Pass for 
 Akutan Pass. The strait has a general 245 true (SW M W mag.) 
 direction, and is 3 miles wide at its narrowest part. A few reconnais- 
 sance lines of soundings in this channel indicate that the bottom is 
 irregular, but the strait is considered safe by most navigators and its 
 navigation is not difficult in clear weather. Strong northwesterly 
 winds draw heavily through Akun Pass. 
 
 Current observations have not been made in Avatanak Strait. The 
 flood current sets northeastward and the ebb southwestward through 
 the strait. 
 
 AKUN ISLAND 
 
 lies 23 miles southwestward of Unimak Island, and is separated from 
 Akutan Island by Akutan Bay and Akun Strait, and from Rootok 
 and Avatanak Islands by Avatanak Strait. It is about 12 miles long, 
 but is very irregular in shape, being nearly divided by Akun Cove 
 and Lost Harbor and a low depression joining them. The island is 
 high and rugged, particularly its northern part, which reaches an 
 elevation of about 2,500 feet in an extinct crater at its northwest end 
 on the north side of Lost Harbor. The northern end of Akun Island 
 is two massive heads about 4 miles apart, separated by Little Bay 
 with a moderately low divide at its head, the whole forming a large 
 valley. Both heads have precipitous sea faces about 1,200 feet high, 
 and have grassy saddles southward of them. Akun Head, the western 
 headland, has a long lozenge-shaped horizontal strata with a red 
 iron-rust color in the face of the cliff. Tanginak Islet, about 80 feet 
 
202 AKUN ISLAND. 
 
 high with steep sides, lies 2^ miks off the east end of Akun Island, 
 and there is a deep passage between if the east end of Akun Island be 
 given a berth of over % mile. Tangik and Poa Islands (about 200 
 feet high) lie in Avatanak Strait about % mile off the southern side 
 of Akun Island. Two low islets surrounded by kelp lie on the eastern 
 side at the northern end of Akun Strait close to the southwest end of 
 Akun Island. There are a number of anchorages around the island 
 with offshore winds. The best are 
 
 Seredka Bay, on the south side of Akun Island 2 miles westward of 
 Round Head, the southeast point of the island, and !J/ miles north- 
 ward of Tangik Island, is about 1 mile wide and the same long, open 
 southeast, and has two bights at the head. The bay is easy of access, 
 and a safe and roomy anchorage except with southeast winds. There 
 is considerable kelp on the southwest side of the bay. The Pathfinder 
 anchored in the bight at the north end of the bay, with the east end 
 of Tangik Island shut out by the south point at the entrance to the 
 bay. 
 
 Akun Cove is the broad indentation in the northeast side of Akun 
 Island; it affords anchorage at its head except with winds from 
 southeast to northwest, but heavy williwaws are experienced with 
 offshore winds. The bay is 5 miles wide at its entrance and about 4 
 miles long. At its head, where the bay is 2J^ miles wide, there are 
 two large bights. Anchorage may be made in either of the bights, 
 about }/% mile from shore, in 10 to 15 fathoms. There are no known 
 dangers in the bay except close to shore. There are fresh-water 
 lakes at the heads of the bights, about 10 feet above high water, and 
 there is a very low depression from the head of the northern bight to 
 Lost Harbor. 
 
 Lost Harbor has its entrance from Akutan Bay on the western side 
 of Akun Island about G miks southward of Akun Head. It is a good 
 harbor, sheltered from all except southwest winds, and is large and 
 easily entered. The harbor has a uniform width of 1 J^ miles and is 
 nearly 3 miles long in a 63 true (NE mag.) direction. 
 
 Approaching Lost Harbor from westward pass about 1 mile north- 
 ward of North Head (of Akutan Island) and make good a 102 true 
 (E % N mag.) course for 10 miles, which should lead to the middle 
 of the entrance. Then steer about 57 true (NE J^ N mag.), follow- 
 ing a mid-channel course into the harbor, and taking care to give 
 the northwest shore of the harbor a berth of % mile or more until 
 near the head. When about % mile from the head of the harbor 
 haul up to about 332 true (NW mag.) and anchor about }/% mile 
 from shore at the northwest end of the head of the harbor, in about 
 10 fathoms. 
 
 Approaching from northward around Akun Head, follow the western 
 shore of Akun Island at a distance of about 1 mile until in the middle 
 of the entrance to Lost Harbor, and then proceed as directed in the 
 preceding paragraph to the anchorage. 
 
 AKUTAN ISLAND, 
 
 
 
 the largest between Unalaska Island and Unimak Pass, is about 15 
 miles long in a general east and west direction, and its greatest width 
 in a north and south direction is about 10 miles. The island lies 
 about 9 miles northeastward from Unalaska Island and is separated 
 
AKUTAN ISLAND. 203 
 
 from the latter by Akutan and Unalga Passes. Akutan Peak, 4,100 
 feet high, is a little west of the middle of the island and is its highest 
 point. On the northeast side the island is separated from Akun 
 Island by Akutan Bay and Akun Strait ; the latter is about % mile 
 wide, but the ledges on both sides leave a channel about 600 yards 
 wide at its narrowest part, with a depth of about 7 fathoms. There 
 are strong tide rips in this channel, and it is not recommended. As 
 far as known there are no dangers over Y^ mile from the shore of the 
 island, except the reef on its northwest side. 
 
 North Head is a high, bold cliff, with a large, deep, grassy valley in 
 the otherwise high shore on its east side. About 2 miles southwest- 
 ward of the cape there is a narrow, grassv valley which separates the 
 high ridge of North Head from another high ridge; the western side 
 of the valley is a bluff. ^ 
 
 Lava Point, 6 miles southwestward of North Head, is moderately 
 low lava beds. At the end of the point is a flat rock having the same 
 height as the point and slightly detached from it. 
 
 A reef, bare at low water artd covered with kelp, extends % mile 
 from the western side of Akutan Island at a point 2 ^ miles southward 
 of Lava Point. 
 
 Cape Morgan, the southwest end of the island and on the north side 
 of Akutan Pass, is steep and high. Three pinnacle rocks, 4 to 8 feet 
 high, lie in the pass 600 yards off the cape, and other bare rocks 
 extend the same distance off its southeast side. The cape should be 
 given a berth of over y mile. 
 
 Battery Point, the south end of Akutan Island,. is prominent, steep, 
 and high, and is surrounded by bare rocks close-to. 
 
 There are a number of places where vessels may anchor with an 
 offshore wind; but they are open seaward and are hot recommended. 
 Akutan Harbor is the only secure anchorage. 
 
 Vulcan Cove, about 3 miles northeastward of Battery Point, affords 
 shelter in northerly weather, but is open to the Pacific swell. 
 
 Hotsprings Bay is a wide indentation in Akutan Island open north- 
 ward between North Head and Akutan Harbor. The north point at 
 the entrance is a high, rocky cliff. The south point at the entrance, 
 Ridge Point, lying about 2^ miles southeastward from the north 
 point at the entrance, is a narrow ridge about 150 feet high, which has 
 bare rock cliffs on its west side, but slopes rapidly on its east side 
 into a grassy valley and sandy cove. At the head of the bay are 
 three bights having streams, and the southernmost has hot springs 
 about 1 mile up the stream. No directions can be given for anchoring 
 in the bay, except that the anchorage is reported to be in 15 to 20 
 fathoms, sandy bottom. A kelp patch extends a short distance into 
 the bay from the south point at the entrance. 
 
 Akutan Harbor is on the north side of the island near its eastern end. 
 The harbor is entered from northward through Akutan Bay; it is 
 nearly 3% miles long and ^ to 1% miles wide. There are no known 
 dangers over 300 yards from the shore. There is anchorage off the 
 the north shore abreast an Aleut village about 1 y% miles westward of 
 the north point at the entrance and about 300 yards from the shore 
 in about 22 fathoms. A vessel may also anchor in the broad bight 
 in the south shore in 15 fathoms, with the north point at the entrance 
 bearing about 17 true (N mag.) and taking care to keep clear of the 
 
204 AKUTAN ISLAND. 
 
 kelp. A light is established on the southeastern end of the point on 
 the north side of the entrance. 
 
 There is a whaling station in Akutan Harbor, from which steam 
 whalers are operated. In 1913 and 1914 a considerable supply of fuel 
 oil was on hand at the station, and vessels were supplied when notice 
 was given in advance. 
 
 Approaching Akutan Harbor from Akun Head, follow the northwest 
 shore of Akun Island giving it a berth of about 1 mile until abreast 
 the old crater on the island, and then steer about 178 true (S by E 
 % E mag.) with Akun Strait on the port bow. The north point at 
 the entrance to Akutan Harbor will be a little on the starboard bow 
 (this point is a grassy hummock over 100 feet high and is connected 
 with the mainland of Akutan Island by a low, grassy spit) . Steer so 
 as to leave this point over % mile on the starboard hand, round it at 
 this distance, and then steer 251 true (SW J W mag.) into the 
 harbor, giving the shores a berth of over 300 yards. Anchor off the 
 village, taking care to allow the vessel swinging room. 
 
 Passing north of North Head (of Akutan Island) leave it about 1 
 mile on the starboard hand and steer about 107 true (E mag.), 
 
 g'ving the shore of the island a berth of 1 mile on the starboard hand, 
 aving stood on this course about 6 miles and when Ridge Point bears 
 on the starboard beam distant 2 miles, steer 150 true (SE ^ E mag.) 
 about 4 miles; the north point at the entrance to Akutan Harbor 
 should then be forward of the starboard beam distant nearly % mile; 
 steer so as to leave the point over ^ niile on the starboard hand and 
 enter the harbor as directed in the preceding paragraph. 
 
 AKUTAN PASS 
 
 is 2^ miles wide in its narrowest part. There are six small islets, 
 Baby Islands, on the western side of the pass, with many detached 
 rocks above water in the same group, but not extending beyond the 
 islets into the pass. Cape Morgan, on the north side of the pass, 
 should be given a berth of over J/ mile. The breaker reported in the 
 middle of Akutan Pass was searched for and does not exist. The 
 current and tide rips (see p. 197) are not so strong as in Unalga Pass. 
 On this account, and because of its greater width and the fact that a 
 straight course will carry through, this pass is preferred by many to 
 Unalga Pass. 
 
 Akutan Pass is recommended, in the daytime with clear weather, 
 for steamers bound to or from Unalaska Bay, and for sailing vessels 
 from Unalaska Bay with a fair wind. From southward it is recom- 
 mended to make the land in the vicinity of Tigalda Island and 
 Avatanak Island and follow along the south side of these islands 
 until the course is shaped from Rootok Island to Cape Morgan. A 
 mid-channel course through the pass is recommended as the most 
 prudent one. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, AKUTAN PASS. 
 
 From a position 3 miles southward of Rootok Island a course 280 
 true (W y% S mag.) made good for 17 miles will lead 1 % miles south- 
 ward of Battery Point and to a mid-channel position in the pass 
 between Cape Morgan and Baby Islands. Continue the course 3 
 miles past Cape Morgan to a position 2 miles off the north side of 
 
FOX ISLANDS. 205 
 
 Unalga Island, and then steer 269 true (WSW % W mag.) with 
 Battery Point astern. This course made good for 8 miles will lead 
 to a position 1J4 miles northward of Cape Kalekta. 
 
 UNALGA ISLAND 
 
 lies northeastward of Unalaska Island nearly halfway to Akutan 
 Island; Akutan Pass leads between Unalga Island and Akutan 
 Island, and Unalga Pass leads between Unalga Island and Unalaska 
 Island. Unalga Island is about 4J^ miles long east and west, about 
 2^ miles wide and 650 feet high, covered with high grass. Lying 
 north of the eastern end of the island is a group of six small islands 
 known as Baby Islands ; between these and Unalga Island there is a 
 kelp-bordered passage (Baby Pass) about % mile wide with a reported 
 depth of 11 fathoms. The southern and western shores of Unalga 
 Island bordering on Unalga Pass are free from outlying dangers; 
 but it is advisable to give tnem*a berth of at least Y^ mile. 
 
 Malga Bay, also called Unalga Cove, on the northwest side of 
 Unalga Island, is about % mile in diameter and affords shelter in 
 southerly weather. No directions are necessary except to keep in 
 the middle of the cove and well clear of the kelp. The mean rise 
 and fall of the tides is 1.2 feet. 
 
 UNALGA PASS, 
 
 between Unalga and Unalaska Islands, is the narrowest of the three 
 principally used passes, and has the strongest tidal currents. It is 
 about 1^4 miles wide in its narrowest part, and, with the exception 
 of rocks above water, which make out a short distance from the 
 points of Unalaska and Unalga Islands the pass is considered free 
 from dangers. In the middle of the pass there are depths of 24 to 
 40 fathoms, with deeper water northwestward and southeastward. 
 Its worst features are the strong tidal currents and tide rips, both 
 of which are generally considered worse in this pass than in either 
 of the other two ; williwaws of great force are also experienced. The 
 advantage of using this pass in thick weather is that the shore of 
 Unalga Island is clear of outlying dangers, and when made can be 
 followed close enough to keep it in sight while going through. 
 
 The Signals, Egg Island, and Old Man are the prominent land- 
 marks for making Unalga Pass from southeastward. 
 
 For currents and tide rips in the pass, see page 198. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, UNALGA PASS. 
 
 From Southeastward. Passing 3 miles southward of Rootok Island 
 a course 261 true (SW by W % W mag.) made good for about 20 
 miles will lead to a position 2 miles off the south side of Unalga Island. 
 Then steer about 292 true (W % N mag.) to a position about % 
 mile off the southwest end of Unalga Island in the narrowest part of 
 the pass. 
 
 Or, when Egg Island is recognized, pass 2 to 3 miles northward of 
 it, about midway between it and Unalga Island, and steer about 292 
 true (W l /2 N mag.) to a position about % mile off the southwest end 
 of Unalga Island in the narrowest part of the pass. 
 
206 UNALGA PASS. 
 
 From a position about % mile off the southwest end of Unalga 
 Island make good a 329 true (NW M W mag.) course for 3 miles to 
 a position with Erskine Point 1 mile on the port beam. Then steer 
 297 true (W % N mag.) for 4 miles and pass 1 mile northward of 
 Cape Kalekta. 
 
 The above directions lead through the middle of the pass, and this 
 is the safest course for any vessel to follow on account of the tide rips 
 and strength of the current. The shore of Unalga Island, bordering 
 Unalga Pass, as far as known, is free from dangers at a distance of J 
 mile from shore. On the southern side of the pass there are some 
 rocks showing out of water, but not over % m il e from the shore. 
 
 UNALASKA ISLAND, 
 
 lying southwestward of Akutan Island and separated from the latter 
 by Akutan and Unalga Passes, is one of the three largest of the Aleu- 
 tian Islands. The island is about 67 miles long, about 23 miles wide 
 at its widest part, mountainous, and during the greater part of the 
 year the mountains are covered with snow. Makushin Volcano, 
 5,691 feet high, the highest point on the island, is near its northwest- 
 ern side about 25 miles from the eastern end of the island. The 
 eastern end of Unalaska Island was surveyed in 1901, but the island 
 west of Biorka Island and Unalaska Bay is still imperfectly known. 
 
 Biorka Island, close to the northeastern end of Unalaska Island 
 and separated from the latter by a narrow, deep strait (Udagak 
 Strait), appears as a part of Unalaska Island. A number of rocks 
 lie 1 to 2 % miles eastward of the eastern end of Biorka Island. 
 
 Egg Island is about % m ^ e m diameter, 550 feet high, and lies 
 about \y<2 miles northeastward from the north point of Biorka Island. 
 Lying a little over % mile west of Egg Island are Old Man Rocks, 
 two rocks surrounded by deep water; the higher is about 60 feet 
 high and flat-topped, and the smaller is round-topped and lies a short 
 distance north of the higher rock. 
 
 Egg Island Passage leads between Egg Island and Biorka Cape 
 and southward of Old Man Rocks. This pass is nearly 1% miles 
 wide and has a depth of about 35 fathoms in the middle. A 309 
 true (WNW mag.) course passing midway between Egg Island and 
 Biorka Cape leads through the middle of the pass. 
 
 The Signals are three small rocks. The outer is 50 feet high and 
 lies nearly 3 miles southward from Egg Island. A small rock, 10 
 feet high and over which the sea washes, lies a little over J m ^ e 
 eastward of the Outer Signal, The Inner Signal is 180 feet high and 
 lies % m il e from the shore of Biorka Island and 4J/2 miles south of 
 Egg Island. There is apparently deep water between the Inner Sig- 
 nal and Outer Signal, but they should be approached with caution. 
 
 BEAVER INLET 
 
 makes in 17 miles in a 235 true (SW % S mag.) direction in the north- 
 eastern end of Unalaska Island. Its entrance lies between Biorka 
 Cape on the southeast and Brundage Head on the northwest and is 
 approached from southward and eastward between Egg and Unalga 
 Islands. The least, width of the inlet is 1% miles near its head and 
 it has a clear and unobstructed channel its full length. 
 
UNALASKA ISLAND. 207 
 
 Udagak Strait separates Biorka Island from Unalaska Island; its 
 entrance in Beaver Inlet is 9% miles southwestward from Old Man. 
 This strait has a least width of % mile, but has good water; there 
 are some rocks off the south srjit of the narrows which mark three 
 points of a reef the limits of which are marked by kelp ; one or more 
 of the rocks are always visible. To pass through the strait follow 
 a mid-channel track, giving the two gravel spits a good berth. There 
 is an anchorage, sheltered from all winds, in Udagak Bay, an indenta- 
 tion in the west shore of the strait about 3J4 miles from its entrance 
 in Beaver Inlet. 
 
 There are a number of bays making off from Beaver Inlet in 
 which vessels may anchor, but those on the south side of the inlet 
 are open northward and northwestward and those on the north 
 side are open southward and eastward. 
 
 Udamat Bay, on the northwest side of Biorka Island, 5^ miles 
 southwestward from Old Man, extends 2 54 miles in a 186 true 
 (S by E mag.) direction, has a general width of % mile near its head, 
 and has a deep and unobstructed channel. There is a small native 
 village on the north side of the point at the east side of the entrance 
 to the bay. Vessels may anchor in the southeastern end of the bay, 
 taking care to have room to swing. 
 
 Strait Bay makes into Biorka Island from Beaver Inlet just east 
 of Udagak Strait; the Pathfinder anchored in the head of this bay. 
 
 Amugul Bay makes southward from Beaver Inlet about 3 miles 
 southwestward of the entrance to Udagak Strait. The Pathfinder 
 anchored in a cove in the southwestern and broadest part of the bay. 
 There is a small island on the eastern side of the entrance to the bay. 
 
 At the head of Beaver Inlet there are four small bays; named in 
 order, following the south shore around to the north shore, they are 
 Tanaskan, Final, Kisselen, and Erskine. The Pathfinder anchored 
 near the head in Final and Erskine Bays. 
 
 Uniktali Bay makes into the north shore of Beaver Inlet about 
 15 miles above its entrance; this bay is nearly 3 miles long in a 
 westerly direction and ^ mile wide at its narrowest part near its 
 head. 
 
 Agamgik Bay and Ugadaga Bay are two indentations in the north 
 shore of Beaver Inlet 5J/2 an d 8 miles, respectively, above the en- 
 trance of the inlet. From the head of Ugadaga Bay a trail leads 
 to the village of Iliuliuk. There are rocks 6ff the western point at 
 the entrance to Agamgik Bay. 
 
 Deep Bay is the bight on the north side of the entrance to Beaver 
 Inlet, and is protected from northeastward by a long ledge and 
 several small islets which make off about ^ mile from the shore. 
 The Pathfinder anchored in the northwestern corner of the bay. 
 
 The places in Beaver Inlet where the Pathfinder anchored were 
 used only as anchorages for the night while that vessel was engaged 
 in surveying in the locality. 
 
 ENGLISH BAY 
 
 is a secure anchorage in the north side of Unalaska Island, directly 
 south of the west end of Unalga Island. The best anchorage is 
 nearly 2 miles above the entrance in about 6 or 7 fathoms ; the width 
 of the anchorage between the 5-fathom curves is here about 300 
 
208 UNALASKA ISLAND. 
 
 yards. There are bare rocks off both points at the entrance, between 
 which the channel has a width of about % mile. When about 1% 
 miles above the entrance the western shore should be given a berth 
 of over 400 yards to avoid a shoal with 1 to 3 fathoms over it which 
 stretches along the shore ^ mile. In entering care must be taken 
 not to be set off the course by the strong currents in Unalga Pass, 
 which have a maximum velocity of about 9 miles; follow a mid- 
 cbannel track or favor the eastern shore and anchor in 6 to 7 fathoms 
 in the middle of the bay nearly 2 miles above the entrance. Good 
 holding ground in depths of 12 to 17 fathoms will be found M to 1^ 
 miles inside the entrance. There is a small fishing village on the 
 eastern point (Fisherman Point) at the entrance to the bay. From 
 Fisherman Point eastward a little over 1 mile to Brundage Head 
 there are ledges and rocks which lie some distance from the shore. 
 
 KALEKTA BAY 
 
 is a broad, open bay in the north end of Unalaska Island just east of 
 Unalaska Bay; it has no known dangers over 400 yards from the 
 shore, and there are a number of places where a vessel may anchor; 
 but as this bay is open northward, and EnglishBay and Dutch Harbor 
 are better harbors, it is not recommended. There is a pinnacle rock 
 off Erskine Point, the eastern point at the entrance, somewhat similar 
 to Priest Rock; but this rock is distinguished by a smaller one between 
 it and Erskine Point. 
 
 UNALASKA -BAY 
 
 is the indentation making into the north end of Unalaska Island 
 between Cape Kalekta and Cape Cheerful. Commercially it is one 
 of the most important bays in western Alaska. Its shores are gen- 
 erally mountainous, with precipitous sea faces. Amaknak Island lies 
 in its southern end. Westward of the island the water is deep, but 
 there is no good harbor in this part of the bay; eastward of the island 
 are the important anchorages of Iliuliuk Bay, Dutch Harbor, and 
 Hiuliuk Harbor. The channel to Iliuliuk Bay and Dutch Harbor is 
 free from dangers, except along the shores. Iliuliuk Harbor is ob- 
 structed at its entrance by ledges, but with the aid of the buoys is not 
 difficult to enter with a small vessel. 
 
 Cape Kalekta, 500 feet high, is the eastern point at the entrance to 
 Unalaska Bay. The extremity and western side of the cape are 
 rugged, precipitous cliffs, with a few rocks but no beach at the water 
 line. From the summit of the cape the land falls to the break at 
 Constantine Bay, and then rises to higher land farther south. A 
 dangerous ledge, usually marked by breakers, lies nearly % mile 
 northward of the cape. The cape should be given a berth of 1 mile 
 or more to clear the ledge, as the strong tidal currents may tend to 
 carry a vessel on it. 
 
 Priest Rock, close-to off the northwest side of Cape Kalekta, is a 
 pinnacle about 175 feet high. A portion of the northwestern face of 
 the rock has been whitewashed to aid in its identification. 
 
 Cape Cheerful, the western point at the entrance to Unalaska Bay, 
 is made up of bold, very high headlands, rounded on top, and inter- 
 sected by deep, grassy valleys. The shore is free from dangers and 
 has deep water close-to. A cascade, 125 feet high, south of Cape 
 Cheerful, can be seen from the vicinity of Cape Kalekta, and is some- 
 
UNALASKA BAY. 209 
 
 oimes useful in thick weather, when only the lower part of the land 
 can be seen. 
 
 Ulakta Head, the north end of Amaknak Island, is 900 feet high. 
 It has a flat top, and in clear weather it is one of the best landmarks 
 for fixing the position of Unalaska Bay. From its northwest point 
 a reef extends j/g mile, marked by Needle Rock, similar in appearance 
 to Priest Rock, but not so large. From its northeast point a long, 
 narrow, grassy, shingle spit extends southward 1 y% miles ; its southern 
 end, called Spithead, is marked by a black and white wooden beacon 
 which is liable to be destroyed by heavy gales. An extensive reef 
 with little depth over it is reported to lie between Amaknak Island 
 and Hog Island. 
 
 Princes Head, 2 miles from Cape Kalekta, is a large, square-headed 
 rocky point that projects from the shore far enough to be seen, even 
 in thick weather, when foUowing the east shore. 
 
 Constantine Bay, about 4 miles from Cape Kalekta, is obstructed 
 by numerous ledges, many of which are only evident from the attached 
 kelp. It is of no importance and should be avoided by all vessels. 
 
 Summer Bay, the large, shallow bight 3 miles from Constantine Bay 
 and opposite Ulakta Head, is shoal, and its shores are lined with kelp- 
 marked rocks and ledges. At its southern headland is Second Priest, 
 about 60 feet high. The bay should be avoided by vessels. 
 
 Iliuliuk Bay extends from Second Priest and Ulakta Head to 
 Iliuliuk. Northward of Spithead there is a ridge extending across 
 the bay, on which the least depths found are 7 to 8 fathoms; kelp has 
 been seen on this ridge in about mid-channel. South of this ridge 
 the depths increase to 16 and 19 fathoms. There is anchorage any- 
 where in the bay. The usual anchorage is at the head in 14 to 16 
 fathoms, muddy bottom, where, even with northerly winds, the force 
 of the sea does not seem to reach home. At the head of Iliuliuk Bay, 
 behind the village, there is a ravine or break in the mountains, which 
 extends through to the water southward. This is sometimes useful 
 as a guide in entering the bay. 
 
 DUTCH HARBOR (CHART 9008) 
 
 is on the west side of Iliuliuk Bay. Its entrance is between Spithead 
 and Rocky Point. The water is deep close to the shores and in all 
 parts of the harbor, except off Rocky Point, where there is a reef 
 making off a little less than y mile, marked at its end by a black can 
 buoy. The entrance between Spithead and the end of the reef off 
 Rocky Point is about J^ mile wide, with a depth of 18 fathoms. 
 Anchorage may be had throughout the harbor in 14 to 19 fathoms. 
 Violent williwaws are experienced during gales, especially from south- 
 west, and the best shelter will be found under tne high part of the 
 island well northward of the wharf. 
 
 The headquarters of the North American Commercial Co. for 
 this part of Alaska are situated on the south side of Dutch Harbor. 
 In front of their warehouses and coal depot a T-shaped wharf extends 
 put to deep water. Large vessels can he at the outer end, and there 
 is ample room for small vessel; on the inside of the T. The wharf is 
 old and weak; a large vessel should lay out anchors to hold her clear 
 in bad weather. Fresh water can be obtained at the wharf. A naval 
 radio station is operated at Dutch Harbor. 
 
 31056 16 14 
 
210 UN ALASKA BAY. 
 
 ILIULIUK HARBOR (CHART 9008) 
 
 is joined to the head of Iliuliuk Bay by the passage between Iliuliuk 
 Reef and the village of Iliuliuk (Unalaska post office). The harbor 
 is small and the channel leading into it narrow, and it is suitable only 
 for small or moderate-sized vessels, although vessels of 6,000 tons 
 have been taken in and out. 
 
 Channels. The channel always used is the one southward of Iliuliuk 
 Reef. A red buoy marks the southern end of Iliuliuk Reef and a 
 black buoy approximately the 3-f athom curve on the opposite side of 
 the channel. The passage has a least depth of about 5 fathoms at 
 mean lower low water, and a clear width of about 27 yards between 
 Tuscarora Rock and the 19-foot shoal spot on the north side of the 
 channel. It should be noted that Tuscarora Rock is charted about 
 mid-channel between the buoys. 
 
 There is a channel northwestward of Iliuliuk Reef, between it and 
 North Rock, which has a least found depth of 3 fathoms, but it 
 should not be attempted except with local knowledge. 
 
 Anchorage. Iliuliuk Harbor is small, but landlocked, with good 
 holding ground, and an average depth of 10 fathoms. Violent willi- 
 waws are experienced with strong southwest gales. The headquar- 
 ters of the Alaska Commercial Co. are at Iliuliuk, and the company 
 has a wharf projecting into the harbor at its entrance from the west- 
 ern end of the spit on which the village is located, with depths of 
 4)4 to 6 fathoms along its north and west faces. 
 
 Iliuliuk is the original Russian settlement. There is a Greek church 
 with a parochial school, also a Methodist mission school. The post 
 office, United States deputy collector, United States commissioner, 
 and United States deputy marshal for this general locality are located 
 here. The post office is called Unalaska. 
 
 Supplies, etc. The Alaska Commercial Co. has a well-stocked general 
 store and commodious warehouses at Iliuliuk. Coal is kept on hand 
 for sale and can be handled at the rate of 200 tons per day. Fresh 
 water can be obtained at the wharf. Lumber can usually be obtained 
 in limited quantities. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall in Dutch Harbor is 2 feet. The 
 tidal current in Dutch Harbor is inappreciable, and in Iliuliuk Harbor 
 the velocity does not exceed 1 knot. 
 
 Ice. The bay is open to navigation at all seasons. It is reported 
 that on two occasions the drift ice of Bering Sea entered Unalaska 
 Bay, but such an occurrence is so rare that it need not be considered. 
 Ice often forms in the sheltered coves and harbors in cold, calm 
 weather, but it never attains any thickness or interferes with naviga- 
 tion. 
 
 The remaining portions of Unalaska Bay southward and westward 
 of Amaknak Island are not important to navigators, but may be 
 briefly described as follows: The portion south-southwestward of 
 Amaknak Island is a long narrow inlet called Captains Bay ; it has not 
 been accurately surveyed, but vessels have entered it on occasions. 
 The narrow passage from it to Iliuliuk Harbor is not recommended. 
 There are a few houses along the eastern shore, and a ranch at the 
 head of the bay. On the western side of Unalaska Bay are Nateekin 
 Bay, Broad Bay, and Eider Point Anchorage, none of which are of any 
 importance. This coast is high, with valleys at the heads of the bays, 
 
TJNALASKA BAY. 211 
 
 mid several conspicuous waterfalls over the cliffs between them. 
 Hog Island lies off the western side of Amaknak Island; rocks and 
 reefs have been reported all round it extending to a considerable dis- 
 tance, and the locality between it and Amaknak Island is reported 
 foul right across. A long reef is charted, extending south-southeast 
 from Eider Point. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, UNALASKA BAY. 
 
 When bound for Unalaska Bay from any part of Bering Sea, it is 
 recommended to shape the course for Cape Cheerful. In thick weather 
 it is better to fall westward of Cape Cheerful and then round it than 
 to fall eastward of it and get down into the passes. Makushin Volcano, 
 5,691 feet high, can generally be seen in clear weather, and is prominent. 
 An extinct crater, 2,314 feet high, back of Cape Cheerful and west of 
 Eider Point, gives a distinct point for which to steer until close enough 
 to distinguish the surrounding features. On getting close to the island, 
 when the fog hangs over the land but leaves a clear space just along 
 the water's edge, Wislow Island forms a good mark. It is in a smafl 
 bay about 2 miles westward of Cape Cheerful, and is a small, rounded 
 island, regular in shape, and stands far enough from the land to be 
 seen as not a part of the main island. Westward, under similar con- 
 ditions, Makushin Cape can be seen at times. The land slopes gently 
 to the cape from Makushin Volcano, and ends in a small peak-like 
 formation. From eastward the cascade south of Cape Cheerful is 
 also useful as a mark. Strangers, when in the vicinity and uncertain 
 of the identity of the bay and its landmarks, should endeavor to pick 
 out Ulakta Head. Looking into the bay, its flat top breaking off 
 abruptly to sloping sides presents an appearance unlike any other 
 in the vicinity, and shows up well against the background of moun- 
 tains. When sighted, steer for it, leave it on the starboard hand, 
 and follow around, keeping out of kelp. 
 
 Cape Kalekta to anchorage. Having arrived in the vicinity of 
 Cape Kalekta, give it a berth of over 1 mile in rounding it, and steer 
 for Ulakta Head, course 214 true (S by W ^ Wmag.), about 4 miles. 
 When the south point at the entrance to Constantine Bay is abeam, 
 distant 1 mile, change course to 195 true (S J E mag.) for about 3J^ 
 miles to a mid-channel position in Iliuliuk Bay eastward of Ulakta 
 Head. Then follow a mid-channel course through Iliuliuk Bay, course 
 about 220 true (SSW mag.), and anchor J4 to ^ mile from the head 
 of the bay in 14 to 16 fathoms, muddy bottom. 
 
 To enter Dutch Harbor pass between Spithead and the buoy off 
 Rocky Point, and anchor in the harbor, as desired, in about 18 fathoms, 
 muddy bottom. 
 
 At night the spit is difficult to make out, and the following may be 
 useful: Stand through Iliuliuk Bay in mid-channel, taking care to 
 keep clear of the reef on the eastern side of the spit, and when the 
 lowest part of Amaknak Island, at the southwest end of Dutch 
 Harbor, bears 276 true (W by S mag.) steer for it, keeping the bear- 
 ing, which leads in mid-channel between Spithead and Rocky Point 
 buoy. On this course the high mountain on the eastern side, south 
 of Summer Bay, should be directly astern. 
 
 To enter Iliuliuk Harbor, stand southward through Iliuliuk Bay 
 on the 220 true (SSW mag.) course until the buoys are sighted. 
 Then haul westward and in passing between the buoys, favor the 
 
212 UNALASKA BAY. 
 
 red buoy, keeping out of the kelp. Iliuliuk Reef is marked by kelp, 
 which with care, serves as a guide if the buoy is not in place. When 
 clear of Tuscarora Rock haul northward to pass in mid-channel south- 
 ward of the dry rocks of Iliuliuk Reef and pass close to the north- 
 east corner of the wharf. Small vessels may anchor in the middle 
 of the harbor in 10 fathoms; the western side of the harbor should 
 be given a berth of over 100 yards. 
 
 Remarks. Sailing vessels entering Dutch Harbor should carry 
 sufficient sail to keep good way on until past the beacon on Spithead. 
 It has frequently occurred that vessels shortening sail at Ulakta 
 Head have been set toward the shoal on the east side of the spit 
 owing to little headway and the w T ind drawing ahead. They are 
 then obliged to anchor in an exposed place, and steam assistance is 
 not always available. 
 
 The 214 true (S by W 1 A W mag.) course from Cape Kalekta 
 follows the shore northward of Constantine Bay at a distance of 
 about 1 mile. In thick weather, when following the east shore, 
 care must be taken not to enter Constantine or Summer Bays by 
 mistake. This has sometimes occurred when the opposite head- 
 land could not be made out. If passing southward of Tuscarora 
 Rock, vessels are obliged to make a sharp turn westward, and care 
 should be observed. 
 
 Dangers. A large cluster of rocks, mostly awash, and usually 
 marked by breakers, extends nearly 200 yards westward of the south 
 head of Constantine Bay. 
 
 Second Priest, near the south point of Summer Bay, is surrounded 
 by reefs, awash and under water, for a distance of 300 yards. Be- 
 tween Second Priest and a point opposite the entrance to Dutch 
 Harbor the east shore is fringed with rocks, and should not be ap- 
 proached closer than J mile. 
 
 The spit has a kelp-marked shoal on its east side which extends 
 its whole length; at its middle point the shoal extends J4 m ^ e from 
 shore, and from it a ridge on which the least depth found is 7 fathoms, 
 extends east-southeastward across the bay. Kelp has been seen 
 on this ridge about in mid-channel. Spithead is bold-to, and may 
 be safely approached as close as 150 yards. 
 
 Rocky Point has a kelp-marked reef which extends toward Spit- 
 head about 350 yards; eastward of the point the shoal makes out 
 about 200 yards with little kelp. The northeastern extremity of 
 the reef is marked by a buoy (can, black, No. 1) in 7 fathoms. 
 
 From Rocky Point south, the shore of Amaknak Island should 
 not be approached closer than 300 yards. 
 
 Iliuliuk Reef is a ledge, portions of which are always exposed, 
 extending 250 yards in an east and west direction. From the eastern 
 dry rocks a ledge, with 12 to 15 feet over it and marked by kelp, 
 extends 150 yards 177 true (S by E % E mag.). 
 
 Tuscarora Rock is charted as a 3-f athom spot of small extent, with 
 some kelp, lying 213 yards 172 true (SSE l / 8 E mag.) from the east- 
 erly dry rocks on Iliuliuk Reef. The 3-fathom curve, on the edge of 
 the shoal making out from the shore, is about 35 yards southward 
 of Tuscarora Rock. 
 
UNALASKA BAY. 213 
 
 A dangerous rock, having 15 feet over it at mean lower low water, 
 was found in 1915 in the channel between Iliuliuk Bay and Iliuliuk 
 Harbor. The rock lies in the southern part of the channel, 172 yards 
 54 true (NE % N mag.) from the higher and larger of the two spires 
 on the Russian church at Iliuliuk, and 502 yards 132 true (SE by E 
 Y E mag.) from the northeasterly corner of the Alaska Commercial 
 Co.'s wharf. 
 
 A rocky and sandy shoal spot with 19 feet over it at mean lower 
 low water was also found in 1915 near the northern limits of the chan- 
 nel between Iliuliuk Bay and Iliuliuk Harbor, 221 yards 46 true 
 (NNE y% E mag.) from the larger and higher of the two spires on the 
 Russian church at Iliuliuk, and 487 yards 126 true (ESE % E mag.) 
 from the northeasterly end of the Alaska Commercial Co.'s wharf. 
 
 NORTH COAST OF UNALASKA ISLAND. 
 
 There are no available surveys of the Aleutian Islands west of 
 Unalaska Bay. The charts are compilations from various sources, 
 with corrections made from later information received; they are 
 therefore necessarily imperfect, and must be used with caution, espe- 
 cially in the vicinity of the land. 
 
 Cape Cheerful is described on page 208, and Wislow Island on 
 page 210. 
 
 Irishmans Hat is a square tower rock about 50 feet high lying close 
 to shore about 3 miles westward of Wislow Island. 
 
 Makushin Cape, 13 miles southwestward of Wislow Island, is a 
 round hill 400 feet high, which appears like an island from a distance, 
 and is a good mark. There are a number of prominent pinnacle 
 rocks off the cape. Southward of it is Cape Kovrizhka, also called 
 Cape Gattan, and Volcano Bay. 
 
 Makushin Bay has an Aleut village, and there are promising min- 
 eral prospects in the vicinity. The northern entrance point is 
 marked by a rocky islet about 40 feet high, lying \y% miles south- 
 westward of the point; there are several rocks above water between 
 it and the shore. To enter the bay, pass about 1 mile westward of 
 the rocky islet, and when it is abeam, steer 151 true (SE mag.) 
 iuntil some remarkable pinnacle rocks are in line with a low dip 
 In the mountains at the head of the bay, bearing about 96 true 
 (E ]/% N mag.). Then steer for them through the middle of the 
 entrance until Priest Rock and the village open out on the port 
 hand; haul in for the village on bearing 286 true (W mag.) and 
 anchor in 13 fathoms, mud bottom, with the church bearing 286 true 
 (W mag.) and Priest Rock bearing 230 true (SW by S mag.). 
 Soundings in this harbor showed no dangers. Fresh water is obtain- 
 able near by. 
 
 Kashega Bay is charted 14 miles south-southwestward of Makushin 
 Bay. The following information was furnished by the Coast Guard 
 Cutter Manning: 
 
 When clear of Cape Spray haul to pass 3 miles off Kashega Point. 
 A high conical rock will be seen bearing a little on the port bow and 
 apparently well over toward the western side of Kashega Bay. Keep 
 this rock a little open on the port bow until Kashega Point is abeam, 
 then haul to 139 true (SE by E mag.) with the conical rock open 
 on the starboard bow, heading for a mid-channel position between 
 the grassy island and the north entrance point of the inner harbor. 
 
214 UNALASKA ISLAND. 
 
 When the village is first sighted on this course it is seen directly 
 under a conical mountain peak. Continuing on this course, the vil- 
 lage shuts in behind a low bluff and the harbor opens. With the 
 harbor open, steer a mid-channel course for a short distance inside 
 the grassy island, and anchor in 9 fathoms, hard bottom. 
 
 Chernofski Harbor (chart 9196) is charted about 22 miles south- 
 westward from Makushin Bay, and near the northeast entrance to 
 Umnak Pass. It is reported to be a safe harbor, sheltered from all 
 weather. Approaching it from northward, a vessel first makes Nel- 
 lie Juan Cape, a high bold bluff, unlike any other land in the vicinity. 
 There is a reef about 300 yards long extending off the cape; the reef 
 ending in a rock about 15 feet high. 
 
 From Nellie Juan Cape continue for about 3J^ miles to East. Point, 
 opening out Chernofski Church over the land to the right of a high 
 wedge-shaped rock about 1 mile eastward of the entrance. The 
 entrance is between East and West Points, through a narrow canal 
 formed by low promontories. The seaward faces of the points are 
 rugged and broken, and there are rocks extending seaward on the 
 line of the ridges off both points; there is a deep wide cleft across 
 the middle of the eastern promontory, which forms a landmark when 
 bearing southward of southeast. The inner harbor is reported to be 
 J4 to % mile across. From the entrance, the right tangent of Umnak 
 Island bears 309 true (WNW mag.). 
 
 To enter, round East Point not less than 500 yards distant, and 
 steer 129 true (ESE mag.) in mid-channel between the two points; 
 round Observatory Point, the low shingle point at the southeastern 
 extremity of the eastern promontory, giving it a good clearance and 
 anchor in 10 to 12 fathoms, mud bottom, in the middle of the harbor, 
 halfway from Observatory Point to the church, with the church 
 bearing 331 true (NW mag.), and the point bearing about 196 
 true (Smag.). 
 
 There is no wharf; a boat landing is made on the shingle beach in 
 front of the village. Fresh water may be secured from a stream in 
 the southern part of the bay. Soundings made in the harbor showed 
 no dangers; but the head of the bay at the southeastern end is shal- 
 low, and can not be used. The harbor is surrounded by high land, 
 with two valleys opening into the head of it. The position of Observ- 
 atory Point is said to be latitude 53 23' 06" N, longitude 167 30 ' 
 34" W. 
 
 About 7 miles inland from the southwestern end of Unalaska Island 
 there is a conical peak about 2,000 feet high, which forms an important 
 landmark, as the other land in the vicinity is comparatively low. % 
 
 SOUTH COAST OF UNALASKA ISLAND. 
 
 The southeastern coast of Unalaska Island from Udagak Strait to 
 Umnak Pa?s, a distance of about 60 miles, is indented by many bays. 
 There are no directions for this coast available. Kuliliak Bay (chart 
 9196) is about 30 miles east-northeastward of Umnak Pass; it is said 
 to be about 500 yards wide at the entrance, and 1 Yi miles long in a 
 northeasterly direction, with depths of 4 to 9 fathoms; there is no 
 information about this bay except that contained in the published 
 plan. 
 
 It is reported that the southern shore of Unalaska Island extends 
 some miles farther south than charted. 
 
ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 215 
 
 UMNAK PASS 
 
 separates Unalaska Island from Umnak Island ; vessels have used it, 
 navigating slowly and cautiously, and using the lead constantly. It 
 can not be recommended as a safe passage. The Coast Guard cutter 
 Manning reports passing through in 1903, as follows: Give Samalga 
 Island a good clearance; the southwest coast of Umnak Island has 
 numerous outlying reefs, and care should be taken when approaching. 
 Stand along the south side of Umnak Island for the Vsevidof Islands, 
 and after rounding these islands, a course 61 true (NE mag.) for 
 Tulik Volcano will bring the Pillars on the port bow. 
 
 Later the Manning passed through Umnak Pass during bad weather 
 and saw no breaks except those charted. Rounding Polivnoi Rock 
 at a distance of 1 mile, she hauled straight up for Ship Rock, carrying 
 18 to 30 fathoms of water. When within J^ mile of Ship Rock she 
 hauled to pass Y^ mile off, and stood through. 
 
 The Pillars are two rocks, 170 and 125 feet high, with a small de- 
 tached rock about 100 yards northward. From the Pillars haul for 
 Kettle Cape, and then proceed slowly and cautiously through the 
 middle of Umnak Pass. Care should be taken to avoid the 3-fathom 
 shoal about 2J/ miles southeast of Kettle Cape. Avoid also the 
 sunken rock which lies about halfway between the above shoal and 
 Kettle Cape. The recommended track passes between these shoals, 
 in a depth of 10 fathoms. 
 
 After passing Kettle Cape avoid the kelp patch % mile off the west- 
 ern side of the pass, between the cape and Ship Rock, which is about 
 300 feet high, and lies near Umnak Island on the western side of the 
 northeast entrance of the pass. From Ship Rock a course may be 
 laid for Chernofski Harbor. 
 
 The chart shows two islets and a rock southwestward of the western 
 end of Unalaska Island, on the line of the point. The rock is re- 
 ported as sunken, and at a distance of 4)^ miles from the point; it is 
 on the southeastern side of the recommended track. 
 
 BOGOSLOF ISLAND 
 
 lies in Bering Sea about 22 miles northward of Umnak Island; it is 
 reported as less than 1 mile in extent and 400 to 600 feet high. In 
 1914 there were three peaks; the southern one, called Castle Peak or 
 Castle Island, was the highest, and was sharp in outline; the middle 
 one, called Perry or McCulloch Peak, was also sharp; and the northern 
 one, called Fire Peak or Fire Island, was flat or rounded in outline, and 
 the lowest of the three. The three peaks are reported to be connected 
 by low beaches of volcanic ashes and cinders. Records state that 
 Castle Peak was first thrown up above the sea by a volcanic eruption 
 in the year 1796; Fire Peak was thrown up in 1883, and Perry Peak 
 in 1906; the three were found connected in a single island in 1907. 
 
 The locality should be navigated with caution, and future changes 
 may be inferred. It is not known whether there are dangers in the 
 vicinity; it has been reported that there is no bottom at 15 fathoms 
 at distances of J^ to J^ m il e on the northern, western, and southern 
 sides; but it has also been reported that there are scattered breakers 
 on all sides except the west. Discolored water is often seen in the 
 ^, which does not indicate shoals. It is reported that the 
 
216 OBOGOSLOF ISLAND. 
 
 island was in violent eruption in 1910. The island forms a useful 
 landfall on a course westward from Cape Cheerful, but it has been 
 reported to lie 5 miles farther west than charted; the report would 
 place it in longitude 167 58' W. 
 
 A current is often reported setting eastward in this vicinity, which 
 is variously reported to set toward Cape Cheerful and toward Umnak 
 Pass, with a strength of 0.1 to 0.4 knot. It is inferred that with a 
 barometric depression near Unimak Pass it sets toward Cape Cheer- 
 ful, but with a depression in the Pacific Ocean southward of Unalaska 
 Island it sets toward Umnak Pass. Vessels coming from westward 
 often make Cape Makushin ahead instead of to starboard. 
 
 UMNAK ISLAND 
 
 is, next to Unalaska, the largest island in the archipelago; it is about 
 70 miles by 16 miles in extreme length and breadth. The volcano of 
 Mount Vsevidof, 7,236 feet high, is the summit of the island. It is a 
 cone-shaped, snow-covered mountain sloping to the sea from north 
 around to southwest. It is situated southwestward of the center of 
 the island, near the western shore, with no other mountains south- 
 westward from it. 
 
 It is reported that the entire north coast of Umnak Island should 
 be approached with caution, and, in particular, that there is a rock, 
 surrounded by 22 fathoms of water, off Cape Tanak, at the northern- 
 most point. Vessels should pass a mile or more off Cape Idak and 
 should keep outside the 100-fathom curve while rounding Cape Tanak. 
 
 Inanudak Bay lies on the northwest coast of the island; it has also 
 been called McAdoo Bay. Anchorage is reported in the northern 
 part of the bay, in 13 fathoms, inside the northern entrance point. 
 
 Nikolski Anchorage, or Umnak Bay, is about 14 miles southward 
 of Mount Vsevidof. Ananiuliak Island, 5 miles northward of Nikolski 
 and about 1 % miles offshore, is about 200 feet high, kite shaped, and 
 about 1% miles long in a north-northeasterly direction, tapering to 
 the southwest. The area between this island and the main shore is 
 reported to be foul. Adugak Island, about 12 miles west-southwest- 
 ward of Nikolski and about 5 miles offshore, is about 100 feet high. 
 
 High Hill is 3 miles northward of Nikolski and shows flat topped 
 from seaward; off the point southward of it there is a spit with kelp 
 and 4 fathoms at the edge of the kelp. 
 
 A reef, shoal enough to break, is reported to exist about 5 miles 
 292 true (W ^ N mag.) from the village. The entire area southwest- 
 ward of this reef, and between Umnak and Adugak Islands, is re- 
 ported to be foul. Vessels should not attempt to enter this area, 
 nor should they pass anywhere inside a line between the north ends 
 of Adugak and Ananiuliak Islands, except close to the latter. There 
 are dangerous tide races and currents off the entrance to Nikolski. 
 
 The best anchorage is in 12 fathoms on the port hand going in, off 
 Kelp Point, about 4 miles 150 true (SE >g E mag.) from the south- 
 western extremity of Ananiuliak Island. The anchorage, however, 
 is not very good and with winds from west-southwest to northwest 
 is not tenable. A nearer anchorage for boating purposes can be had 
 in 14 fathoms off the southern point of the entrance to the small inner 
 boat harbor. 
 
UMNAK ISLAND. 217 
 
 Very small schooners and boats can enter the boat harbor through 
 a passage with 4 fathoms of water, between the reefs off the village 
 showing well above water and the right-hand point of land going in. 
 There is a sunken rock with kelp on it in the channel. Going; in, a 
 course with the church open from a yellow-roofed house and midway 
 between the house and the right point of the reef will lead clear of 
 the rock. The boat landing is on a shingle beach in front of the vil- 
 lage, where the surf seldom breaks except in very heavy weather. 
 
 The point about 4 miles west-southwestward of Nikolski village 
 has many rocks off it above and below water, extending well out 
 toward Adugak Island. 
 
 Samalga Island lies off the southeastern point of Umnak Island; 
 the passage between it and Cape Sagak is reported dangerous. The, 
 island is low and sandy, and extends in a northeast and southwest 
 direction. There is a fox farm on it. All navigators recommend 
 giving it a good berth, on account of outlying reefs on all sides. There 
 is a breaker reported westward of Cape Sagak and about on line 
 between the western points of Samalga and Adugak Islands ; another 
 reef is charted off the southwest point of Samalga Island, on the axis 
 of the island. 
 
 Driftwood Bay is on the southeast coast of Umnak Island opposite 
 Nikolski village ; vessels have anchored here, but no detailed informa- 
 tion is available. 
 
 The southeast coast of Umnak Island should be navigated with 
 great caution; reports state that it is foul and dangerous, but accurate 
 information is not available. 
 
 ISLANDS OF FOUR MOUNTAINS 
 
 are a group of five volcanic islands lying southwestward of Umnak 
 Island. Their names are Chuginadak, Herbert, Carlisle, Kagamil, 
 and Uliaga. The group is about 20 by 30 miles in extent and is 
 separated from Umnak Island by a passage about 17 miles wide. 
 
 The islands are all high and steep, and partly snow covered. The 
 highest summit is Mount Cleveland, 8,150 feet high, on the western 
 end of Chuginadak Island. The passages between the various 
 islands all appear to be safe. There are no harbors, so that it is very 
 difficult to find anchorages or landing places. 
 
 A reef which breaks heavily extends 1 ^ miles southeastward from 
 Concord Point, the southeast point of Chuginadak Island. Corwin 
 Rock is charted about 1J^ miles northeastward of the northeastern 
 point of the same island. There are strong tidal currents through the 
 group; a current of 5 knots running about southwest is reported off 
 Concord Point. 
 
 There is no other information about these islands except that given 
 by the chart. This is the result of a reconnaissance in 1894, and the 
 general features will no doubt be found reliable. These islands are 
 uninhabited and are not often visited. There is an old report that a 
 sounding of 13 fathoms has been made 50 miles southward of the Four 
 Mountains; it is said that there was once an island there. 
 
218 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 YUNASKA, AMUKTA, AND CHAGULAK ISLANDS 
 
 form a group westward of the Islands of Four Mountains; they are 
 2,800 to 4,300 feet high. Their positions are somewhat doubtful, 
 and bearings among them do not agree. Reports have been received 
 that Yunaska Island is charted 4 to 5 miles northward and westward 
 of its true position. There is a high rock charted at the east point 
 of Chagulak Island, a high rock between it and Amukta Island, and 
 a high rock 1 mile southeastward of Amukta Island. There is no 
 other information about these islands. 
 
 Amukta Pass is a broad clear passage, and is the first opening west 
 of Unalga Pass which can be recommended to a stranger. It is often 
 called the 172-degree pass. It is about 35 miles wide between 
 Amukta and Seguam Islands; and no offshore dangers have been 
 reported in it. The landfalls on both sides are good, but should be 
 given a reasonably wide berth, as there are no soundings near their 
 shores. Both Amukta and Seguam Islands may be seen across the 
 full width of the pass in fair weather. Vessels have reported high 
 breaking seas in Seguam Pass; it is probable that the current always 
 runs northward through the pass, and in this case bad northerly 
 weather would always cause this condition. Traders report that 
 there is always a fair current from the Islands of Four Mountains to 
 Cape Cheerful. In 1914 a 24-foot sea almost breaking was met east- 
 ward of Seguam Island, with northerly weather. 
 
 SEGUAM ISLAND, 
 
 2,098 feet high, shows two slight saddles in the profile from north and 
 south. It slopes to the sea on the south and east sides, but has high 
 cliffs on the northeast side. The middle peak is said to smoke at 
 times. It is reported that rocks and discolored water extend for 1 J/ 
 miles off the east and west points. 
 
 Seguam Pass lies between Seguam and Amlia Islands. It has been 
 regarded with suspicion, and a sailing vessel has been lost on Agligadak 
 Reefs, on the southwest side. The pass is about 12 miles wide, and 
 it is reported that there are strong currents, rips, and overfalls. 
 There are no reports of offshore dangers. 
 
 ANDREANOF ISLANDS. 
 
 Amlia Island is about 40 miles long and very narrow; there is a 
 chain of sharp peaks throughout its length, no one of which is especially 
 distinctive. Its shores should be given a good berth, particularly near 
 the eastern end. The eastern point is a good landmark in fair 
 weather. It is visible at a considerable distance, running out with a 
 straight profile at a moderate elevation, and dropping to the sea in a 
 precipice. It must be given a berth of several miles on account of 
 rocks which are shown on the chart eastward and southward of it. 
 
 Sviechnikof Harbor (chart 9196) is on the south shore of Amlia 
 Island about 15 miles from the eastern point. The entrance is difficult 
 to make out, and should be attempted only in clear weather. Sagigik 
 Islet about 9 miles eastward, and the pyramid peak to the right of 
 the entrance, may be recognized. The harbor is said to extend about 
 2 miles in a north-northwest direction with a width of J/ mile, and is 
 
AMLIA ISLAND. 219 
 
 sheltered from the sea by a narrow islet off the eastern entrance point. 
 It is said to be an excellent harbor with good holding ground and 
 protected from all winds. To enter hold the port side of the entrance 
 until past the long island and the rocks and reefs which will be seen 
 on the starboard side, then stand up the middle of the bay and anchor 
 in 12 fathoms, mud bottom, with the waterfall open. Soundings 
 have been taken in the bay which indicate that there are no dangers 
 except the reef at the east entrance point. 
 
 Amlia Pass is a strait 1 to 1 ^ miles wide between Amlia and Atka 
 Islands, and has been used by vessels. A current of 8 knots has 
 been observed and there are strong tide rips across it which give it 
 a very dangerous appearance. A sounding of 20 fathoms was 
 obtained in these rips. There is an extensive ledge showing above 
 water off the Atka Island shore. It is reported that only full-pow- 
 ered steam vessels should attempt to pass through, and that the Amlia 
 Island shore should be held. One report says " favor the Amlia 
 Island shore until up with the^reef, and then steer about 169 true 
 (SSE mag.) in mid-channel." 
 
 Atka Island is the largest of the Andreanof Islands; it is about 20 
 by 50 miles in extent and contains the last settlement westward in 
 the Aleutian Islands, except Attu. The northeastern portion con- 
 tains the active volcano of Korovin, 4,852 feet high, with slopes of 
 the mountain breaking off in a rocky escarpment at the northern 
 extremity of the island. The southwest portion of the island from 
 Nazan and Korovin bays is lower and runs off to the narrow low 
 southwest extremity. 
 
 Nazan Bay (chart 9196) lies on the eastern coast, facing Amlia 
 Island ; the west point of Amlia is a conspicuous landmark for making 
 the bay. Cape Kudugnak is the northern point of the bay and con- 
 sists of a rounded hillock. From here Uyak Island, 150 feet high, 
 at the southern entrance to the harbor may be seen; or in case of 
 fog the island may be picked up before the cape is lost. In foggy 
 weather the harbor will often be found clear when there is fog at the 
 cape. The northern part of the harbor is large and is unprotected 
 from the east; it is about 1^ miles across, with depths of 15 to 20 
 fathoms. 
 
 The inner harbor lies in front of the village, and is small and pro- 
 tected, with depths of 7 to 10 fathoms. Conical Rocks form a single 
 islet 80 feet high and lie northward of the inner harbor, between it 
 and the northern harbor. There are two other islets between Conical 
 Rocks and the shore, and foul ground around and between the three. 
 
 Bolshoi Island is a large island 400 feet high, forming the eastern 
 side of the inner harbor, and lying near the shore in the southern side 
 of Nazan Bay. There is a narrow passage 120 yards wide between 
 it and the south shore. The northeastern and southeastern sides 
 of the island are foul for some distance from its shores, and there are 
 several islets adjacent to its eastern and southern shores. Foul 
 ground is reported between it and Uyak Island. 
 
 The settlement consists of Indians and half-breeds ; there is a 
 small store, and a Government school conducted bv a white teacher. 
 There are no mail facilities; the only communication with the out- 
 side is by small trading schooners to Unalaska. 
 
 To enter Nazan Bay, round Cape Kudugnak, 1 mile distant, and 
 steer 271 true (W by S mag.); Uyak Island is right ahead on this 
 
220 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 course, and the course must be altered to pass it J4 m ile distant to 
 port. Then steer 260 true (WSW mag.) about 1 mile, with the 
 Conical Rocks right ahead. This course must be altered to pass 
 Conical Rocks about 400 yards to starboard and about midway 
 between them and Bolshoi Island. There are sunken rocks on botn 
 sides of the passage, generally marked by kelp. Then steer about 
 214 true (SSW mag.) for about y^ mile, to the anchorage off the 
 village. Anchor in 10 fathoms, mud bottom, midway between the 
 bluff on the village point and the rocky ledge at the point of Bolshoi 
 Island; the anchorage is about 400 yards in extent. A vessel not 
 desiring to come to the inner harbor may find anchorage anywhere 
 northward of Conical Rocks. Fresh water can be obtained from a 
 stream south of the village. 
 
 Korovin Bay (chart 9196), on the western side of Atka Island, 
 opposite Nazan Bay, is reported to be about 7 miles by 4 miles in 
 extent. It is open westward and has not been considered a good 
 anchorage. There are two shallow harbors, or lagoons, in the north- 
 ern part with 2 fathoms or less in them. At the head of the bay 
 there are reported to be reefs well offshore. On the south shore are 
 Sand Bay, called also Martin Harbor, and Sarana Bay. Both of 
 these have been recommended, but there is no detailed information 
 about them. 
 
 It is reported that the bearing between Koniuji and Kasatochi 
 Islands is correct as shown by the chart. 
 
 Great Sitkin Island is shown on the chart as a volcanic peak 5,033 
 feet high, with its northern point marked by a rounded hillock 800 
 feet high. Off the eastern coast is Ulak Island, about 500 feet high. 
 A vessel has anchored in the northeast bight of Great Sitkin, with 
 offshore winds; 10 fathoms sand bottom was found 2 miles from the 
 beach, with a gradual slope from the shore. A kelp patch extends 
 1 mile eastward, showing a depth of 3 to 7 fathoms. 
 
 There is no information about any of the other islands or passages 
 between Atka and Adak Islands except the chart, which is said to 
 be approximately correct. 
 
 ADAK ISLAND 
 
 is large and mountainous; some of the peaks are always snow cov- 
 ered. The Bay of Islands (chart 9196) lies on the northwestern 
 shore, opening on Adak Strait. It has not been recommended as 
 a harbor, as it is said to be open to westerly gales. Southward of 
 the bay there is a landlocked basin about 2 miles long and 1 mile 
 wide, which is entered from the head of the bay by a passage 25 
 yards wide. There is no other information to add to that shown 
 on the chart. 
 
 The Bay of Waterfalls (chart 9196) is at the southwestern point 
 of Adak Island, and opens on the Pacific Ocean. It is about 4 miles 
 wide at the entrance, and extends about 8 miles inland in a northerly 
 direction. The two entrance points are Cape Yakak and Turret 
 Point, which form important landmarks for vessels passing south- 
 ward of the islands. Cape Yakak is a long fiat tableland, well defined 
 and easily distinguished, as it has no high peaks on it and is the only 
 point of that nature on the western Aleutian Islands; in clear weather 
 
ADAK ISLAND. 221 
 
 the high peaks of Kanaka Island loom up in the distance above it. 
 Three miles eastward pi Turret Point there is another bay called 
 False Bay, which is distinguished from Bay of Waterfalls by two 
 ragged islands on the eastern side which do not resemble Turret 
 Point at all. Turret Point and Cape Yakak may be approached 
 within less than 2 miles, but caution must be used, as there is foul 
 ground closer in. 
 
 Chapel Roads is on the eastern side of the Bay of Waterfalls and 
 offers convenient and sheltered anchorage in 20 fathoms, rock and 
 sand bottom. Chapel Cove is at the head of Chapel Roads; the 
 entrance is narrow, and almost in the middle of it has a pinnacle rock 
 not marked, with 2^ fathoms over it. Inside the cove there is a 
 ledge of rocks above water on the southwestern side, called Pulpit 
 Rocks. There is swinging room for a 200-foot vessel with 45 fathoms 
 of chain, if she anchors in the middle. There is 12 fathoms fairly 
 soft bottom in this position. 
 
 Cataract Bight is on the eastern shore of the Bay of Waterfalls 
 near the head; it is protected from the swell which runs in from the 
 sea, but there is scant swinging room if a vessel swings toward the 
 beach. In case of northerly weather a vessel should anchor at the 
 head of the bay, selecting anchorage as desired, as there are no dan- 
 gers. With southerly winds a perceptible swell reaches here from 
 the sea. Fresh water may be obtained at any one of many streams 
 in the bay. There is no settlement here. 
 
 No detailed directions are required for entering the bay. Except 
 for the dangers already mentioned, the entire area is believed to be 
 clear. From a position about midway between Turret Point and 
 Cape Yakak a 4 true (N % W mag.) course heading midway between 
 Middle Point and Middle Rock leads through a least depth of 56 
 fathoms. From abreast Middle Rock follow a mid-channel course 
 to the anchorage at the head of the bay. 
 
 Adak Strait separates Adak and Kanaga Islands; a vessel reports 
 passing through it, keeping 1J4 miles off the points of Adak Island. 
 There was a 2-knot current setting northward, and hsavy tide rips 
 and swirls were encountered at the north entrance. Soundings from 
 36 fathoms to no bottom at 90 fathoms were obtained. 
 
 Kanaga Island is reported to have a high smoking volcano on its 
 northern end; the southwestern end has an elevation of 1,392 feet. 
 
 Tanaga Island is westward of Kanaga Island, and has a volcano 
 6,975 feet high on its northwest point. Tanaga Bay, called also 
 Glory of Russia Bay, lies midway of the west coast. It is said to 
 afford anchorage in the northern part near the head, abreast of two 
 streams, over a bottom of fine black sand. 
 
 Tanaga Pass, westward of Tanaga Island, is reported clear by 
 several vessels which have used it. 
 
 Gareloi Island is an active volcano which is reported to be a good 
 landmark; it is 5,334 feet high and snow covered. There is a group 
 of islands southward of it, for which no information is available 
 except the chart. Amatignak Island, 1,921 feet high, is the south- 
 ernmost of the group, and is an important landmark for vessels pass- 
 ing southward of the islands. 
 
222 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 RAT ISLANDS. 
 
 Semisopochnoi Island, called also Island of the Seven Mountains, 
 is shown on the chart as 3,112 feet high; it is important on account 
 of Petrel Bank, which extends about 30 miles north-northeastward 
 from it, and is about 18 miles across. The least known depth on this 
 bank is 29 fathoms. It is very useful in navigating this region in 
 foggy weather, when Semisopochnoi Island is obscured. 
 
 Amchitka Island is long and low. The northwest end is shown on 
 the chart as 1,008 feet high. The eastern extremity forms a penin- 
 sula, from the end of which a reef extends for 2 miles; a hillock 
 marks the extremity of this point. The offshore navigator can not 
 expect to see Amchitka at all as there are no commanding elevations. 
 
 Constantino Harbor (chart 9196), near the easternmost point of 
 Amchitka Island, on the northern side, is said to be the only harbor 
 on the island. It is open northeastward, and is said to afford anchor- 
 age in depths of 8 to 12 fathoms. The chart shows the details, and 
 there is no information except that shown. 
 
 Kirilof Bay is said to be only a small boat harbor inside the reef; 
 vessels should not attempt to find a sheltered anchorage here. 
 
 little Sitkin, Chugul (also called Iron Island), Davidof, and 
 Khwostof Islands form a group of four; their positions have been 
 disputed from time to time. The two largest are high volcanic cones 
 with smooth slopes. Little Sitkin shows a long flat point at the 
 northern side. 
 
 It is reported that there is a small island about midway between 
 Little Sitkin and Rat Island. It is also reported that there is a reef 
 all the way from Rat Island to the south end of Kiska Island, and 
 that bottom can be seen all the way across; vessels have therefore 
 regarded that passage with suspicion. There is no other information 
 about Rat Island except the chart. 
 
 KISKA ISLAND. 
 
 The general trend of the island is north-northeast and south- 
 southwest, with a ridge of mountains as a backbone, having elevations 
 of 4,050 feet at the northern end, and 1,200 to 1,500 feet in the south- 
 ern part. The shores are hilly and rocky. 
 
 The northeast coast, from Northeast Cape to Kiska Harbor, is bold 
 with numerous points and bays, with outlying rocks to a maximum 
 distance of about 1 J^ miles. 
 
 McArthur Reef, a rocky patch about l / 2 by J mile in extent, and 
 nearly awash at low water, lies about midway of, and on a line 
 between, the peak on Chugul Island and the peak on the north end 
 of Kiska. 
 
 Tanadak Island is flat-topped, resembling a mesa when seen from a 
 distance. 
 
 Tanadak Pass, between Little Kiska and Tanadak Islands, should 
 be used with caution. 
 
 South Pass, between Kiska and Little Kiska Islands, is foul and 
 should not be used. 
 
 Kiska Harbor is closed to foreign shipping. 
 
ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 223 
 
 BULDIR ISLAND 
 
 is an important landmark. Its position has often been disputed, but 
 is considered to be approximately correct as now charted. The 
 island is said to be 1,145 feet high. Vessels have passed along the 
 north shore, but the south shore has been regarded as dangerous. 
 Vessels have found temporary anchorage near the western point in 
 10 to 15 fathoms about 1 mile offshore. 
 
 The north anchorage is about halfway between the two reefs shown 
 on the chart, one off the north shore and the other off the northwest 
 point. In approaching the anchorage avoid the reef on the north 
 shore and stand in on a 163 true (SSE mag.) course nearly parallel 
 to the reefs off the northwest point. This reef consists of a low, 
 round knuckle directly off the point and two fairly high islands. 
 Foul ground exists close around the islands. The north reef at low 
 water shows two rocks close inshore, and more foul ground is supposed 
 to exist. It is stated that almost the only possible boat landing on 
 the island is at this anchorage. " 
 
 The southwest anchorage is in 10 fathoms, with the sea-lion rookery 
 bearing 41 true (NE byl^ mag.), distant 1 mile. 
 
 The passage between Kiska and Buldir Islands is about 50 miles 
 wide ; but can not be considered safe until it is more carefully explored. 
 It is chiefly noted on account of a line of tide rips, breakers, and 
 overfalls which are often seen extending well across between the two 
 islands. The current amounts to a knot or more at times. The rips 
 occur on banks of less than 100 fathoms surrounded by deeper water, 
 and until the region is well explored, a vessel must proceed through 
 them with caution, and should take soundings at all times. 
 
 There may be a dangerous shoal near the 15-fathom sounding 
 charted 10 miles from Buldir on a line toward the middle of Kiska; 
 breakers have been reported here. There are indications that there 
 may be a dangerous shoal halfway between Buldir and the south end 
 of Kiska; and there have been reports to that effect. There is no 
 information to verify the two reefs marked U P. D. sunken rocks" 10 
 miles southward and 6 miles southeastward of Buldir, and they may 
 be anywhere in a wide region round about. One report places them 
 about" 14 miles sputhwestward of the island. 
 
 Tahoma Reef is a reef of sunken rocks about 2 miles in extent, 
 marked by heavy kelp fields, lying 189 true (S J^ W mag.), distant 
 31 miles from the peak of Buldir Island. Breakers were seen in about 
 2 fathoms, but there are no rocks above water. There are other 
 breakers about 2 miles 108 true (E by S mag.) from the position 
 located. Depths of 60 fathoms were found 6 miles distant southward 
 and westward, with a regular slope from the reef to this distance. 
 
 Ingenstrem Rocks consist of a number of small black pinnacles 
 about 20 feet high, with breakers near them. The water shoals to 
 50 fathoms within 3 miles of them, and there is moderately shallow 
 water between them and the Semichi Islands. The latest information 
 places their position 13 miles 121 true (SE by E % E mag.) from the 
 southeastern end of the Semichi group. 
 
 The Semichi Islands are a group of three, of which the two eastern 
 ones are low and the western one higher. There are reefs extending 
 about 1% miles southeastward and northeastward from the eastern 
 
224 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 point of the group. The passages between the islands are narrow 
 and appear to be foul. A safe track was found 2 miles off the southern 
 coast. Temporary anchorage may be found southward of the eastern 
 island. 
 
 AGATTU ISLAND 
 
 has high mountains upon it, while the extreme western point is low. 
 There are reports that the shap3 does not agree with the chart. It 
 is reported that the northeast and southeast points are in range on a 
 bearing 23 true (N by E y% E mag.), and that the eastern point of 
 the Semichi Islands lies on the same range. A course from the 
 Semichi Islands to the western point of Agattu indicates that this 
 point is charted about 4 miles too far westward. The southern 
 coast of Agattu is dangerous, with numerous outlying rocks and 
 breakers. A vessel should keep at least 3 miles offshore. 
 
 McDonald Bay is an open anchorage on the east coast. Approach- 
 ing it from northward bring Northeast Cape to bear 241 true (SW 
 by W mag.) distant 3 miles, and then steer 213 true (SSW ^ W 
 mag.) until it bears abeam. Then steer for Monolith Point at the 
 north point of the cove on a course 255 true (WSW % W mag.), 
 and when Cone Peak bears 325 true (NW J^ N mag.) with a water- 
 fall about in range, round to and anchor in 15 fathoms, sand bottom, 
 about 3/2 m il e offshore. 
 
 ATTU ISLAND 
 
 is the westernmost of the Aleutian Islands, and the last of the islands 
 belonging to the United States. It is about 20 by 35 miles in extent 
 and is indented by many bays and long inlets; there are mountains 
 3,000 feet high upon it. There are many rocks and reefs off its 
 shores, and a vessel should exercise extreme caution in the vicinity. 
 It is reported that there is a rock about 15 feet high, connected with 
 the land by a line of breakers, located 3 miles 125 true (SE by E J^ 
 E mag.) from East Cape, and that the cape should be given a berth 
 of at least 4 miles. 
 
 The chart shows several deep bays on the south coast and many off- 
 shore dangers, but there is no other information about them. Sarana 
 Bay on the northeast coast and Chichagof Harbor on the north coast 
 are the only bays for which there is available information. 
 
 Chichagof Harbor (chart 9196) is small, but offers good shelter for a 
 vessel of less than 14 feet draft. The chart is said to be correct in all 
 essentials for navigation, but there may be considerable difficulty 
 in finding the bay in bad weather. A vessel should therefore proceed 
 with caution, especially in bad northerly weather. Strong currents 
 set northeastward and southwestward past East Cape, which are 
 possibly influenced more by the weather than by the tide. 
 
 There are rocks for a distance of about 1 mile eastward of Cape 
 Khlebnikof, which is the landfall in the approach from East Cape or 
 from northeastward. Cooper Island is high and dome-shaped, and 
 Gibson Island is lower and flat-topped. Pisa Tower is a leaning 
 conical rock at the east entrance point, which is used as a front range 
 mark. An outer anchorage is reported in 14 fathoms with Cooper 
 Island dome bearirg 309 true (NW by W mag.) and Pisa Tower 
 bearing 185 true (S mag.). 
 
ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 225 
 
 To enter the inner harbor, steer for Pisa Tower on a bearing which 
 will lead clear of Gibson Island, and when passing between Pisa 
 Tower and Middle Rocks avoid opening the flagstaff in the village 
 clear of Ranze Point, bearing about 233 true (SW M W mag.). 
 
 This range leads over the 2J^-fathom spot marked by kelp, which 
 lies off Middle Rocks. Then stand through the middle of the passage 
 between Range Point and Inner Rocks, and round to about 275 true 
 (W mag.), heading for the southernmost of five jagged heads on the 
 shore just above the water line ; keep both leads going, and when the 
 dome of Cooper Island shows in the open, round slowly, to a course 
 about 224 true (SW J^ S mag.), heading about halfway between 
 the gulch and the village. Anchor in the middle of the harbor, in 5 
 fathoms, sticky bottom. The flagstaff will not be seen until well 
 in toward Range Point. A vessel must be maneuvered smartly, 
 as the turns are sharp and there is little room. 
 
 There is an Aleut settlement here, with a small store kept by a 
 white trader; some blue foxes are v bred on the neighboring islands. 
 
 Sarana Bay is a deep indentation on the northeast shore of Attu 
 Island between Cape Khlebmkof and East Cape. The Coast Guard 
 cutter Tahoma, anchored in the cove at the head of the bay, and the 
 available information is furnished on a sketch by that vessel. The 
 sketch shows foul ground extending about 1 mile eastward from 
 Cape Khlebnikof and off the western shore of the bay. The south 
 shore apparently is bold from the head of the bay to "Square Point, " 
 but is foul eastward of the point; there is a cascade eastward of 
 Square Point. 
 
 The Tahoma entered on a 196 true (S by W mag.) course for 
 Square Point open eastward of a notch in the mountain, until 
 close to Square Point, and then followed the south shore on a 
 269 true (W ^ S mag.) course, midway between an islet and the 
 south shore, and anchored in 9 fathoms, soft bottom, close to the head 
 of the bay. The anchorage is exposed from about north to east 
 (magnetic). 
 
 BERING SEA. 
 
 The portions of Bering Sea here treated include the coast and 
 islands of Alaska northward of the Aleutian Islands. Excepting a 
 few localities, this territory has not been surveyed, and the charts of 
 it are only compilations from various sources, with corrections made 
 from later information received; the charts are necessarily imperfect 
 and must not be followed implicitly, especially when in the vicinity 
 of the coast. Then, too, the currents are much influenced by the 
 winds, and are imperfectly known and difficult to predict, so that 
 positions by dead reckoning are uncertain and safety depends upon 
 constant vigilance. 
 
 Northward and eastward of the 100-fathom line the waters of 
 Bering Sea shoal gradually to the coast. There are no dangers in 
 the open sea, unless the Pribilof Islands, St. Lawrence Island, St. 
 Matthew Island, King Island, and Diomede Islands be considered as 
 such. These, being volcanic in character and rocky, are generally 
 bold-to, and in approaching them in thick weather the lead can not 
 be depended upon at all times to keep clear of them. The coast of 
 the mainland from the head of Bristol Bay to St. Michael, including 
 Nunivak Island, is characterized by extensive banks, formed by 
 31056 16 15 
 
226 BERING SEA. 
 
 deposits from the rivers, which extend many miles from shore, in 
 some cases out of sight of land. Some of these shoals are believed to 
 be quite steep-to on their seaward faces, making it unsafe to shoal 
 the water to less than 10 fathoms when in their vicinity. 
 
 In this region, where fog and thick weather are the rule during the 
 season of navigation, safety, when near the coast, depends on the 
 use of the lead, which, on account of the generally regular bottom, 
 will indicate the approach to danger. In general, all the shores of 
 Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean are shallow, and when coasting it 
 should be observed as a rule to keep the lead going constantly, and 
 when north of St. Michael never to shoal the water to less than 5 
 fathoms unless feeling the way in to the land. Between St. Michael 
 and the head of Bristol Bay the water should not be shoaled to less 
 than 10 fathoms under the same conditions. 
 
 There are few aids to navigation. All of the rocky islands and 
 rocky cliffs of the mainland are freouented by thousands of birds, 
 whose numbers, constant cries, and flight may serve to indicate the 
 approach to shore at these places in thick weather. 
 
 The coast of Alaska from the head of Bristol Bay to Point Barrow 
 and eastward has driftwood, which is brought down from the interior 
 by the rivers and carried by the northerly currents of the sea. Good 
 water can always be found in the vicinity of high land. Salmon are 
 plentiful during the open season in aU the streams as far north as 
 Kotzebue Sound, and cod are plentiful in the vicinity of the passes 
 and in Bristol Bay. 
 
 Ice. Except in bays and sheltered places, the ice of Bering Sea is 
 detached fields, floes, and cakes, which are continually kept in motion, 
 breaking up, piling, and telescoping by the action of variable winds 
 and currents. At no time is the sea one solid sheet of ice, and in the 
 winter, while it is forming, it is more scattered than in the spring, 
 when the northerly movement has begun and it packs closer together. 
 The general southern limit of ice is from Bristol Bay to the vicinity 
 of St. George Island, and thence about west-northwest to the Siberian 
 shore. The southern edge is ragged and very much scattered, and 
 continued northerly winds sometimes drive fields of it far southward. 
 As a rule, no heavy ice will be encountered south of the Pribilof 
 Islands, and the ice in their vicinity is likely to be nothing more than 
 detached fields. 
 
 The ice conditions in Bristol Bay have so far received little notice. 
 Reports have been received that the bay is usually free from heavy 
 ice between the middle of May and June 10. In 1899 the steamer 
 Jeanie, of 1,000 tons and a draft of 18 feet, reached Clark Point, in 
 Nushagak River, on April 4, and was discharged on April 15. At 
 this time the ice in the river above Fort Alexander remained solid, 
 but two weeks afterwards it broke up and came down the river in 
 large pieces, which would have endangered any vessel at anchor. In 
 approaching the Nushagak River some ice was encountered about 
 75 miles from Cape Constantine, but not sufficient to seriously inter- 
 fere with navigation. On May 10, 1896, a vessel bound for Bristol 
 Bay was brought up by the ice, which extended from Port Moller to 
 St. George Island, and she was not able to reach the Nushagak River 
 until 30 days later. It is within reason to believe that some 
 years Bristol Bay is open to navigation all winter, though the rivers 
 and sheltered bays are closed. 
 
BERING SEA ICE. 227 
 
 The information regarding ice conditions in Kuskokwim Bay and 
 River is very meager. In general, however, this region may be 
 expected to be clear of ice about June 1. See also pr-ge 250. 
 
 In the spring, beginning with April, there is a general northward 
 movement of the ice, the shores clearing ahead of the center of the 
 sea; but it sometimes hangs in the bays and around the islands later 
 than in tbe open sea. Seasons vary, the movement and position of 
 the ice depending greatly on the direction of the winds. Generally, 
 however, by June 1 the whole body of ice is well up with St. Law- 
 rence Island, and a passage opens to its west side. The eastern side 
 of the sea is likely to be obstructed a little later than the western side, 
 and ice is often met between St. Lawrence Island and Nunivak 
 Island in the early part of June. The breaking out of the rivers 
 toward the latter part of May clears the shores, but the ice is likely 
 to hold in Norton Sound several weeks later. 
 
 In general, for a vessel not fitted to encounter ice, Norton Sound is 
 not navigable before the middle oj June, often not before June 20 to 
 25, and has been known to be as late as July 10. On entering the 
 sound about this time, strips of ice are often encountered after the 
 sound can be said to be navigable. From the deck these may appear 
 extensive and solid, but from aloft clear water may be seen beyond 
 and through them. At the opening of navigation the ice is likely to 
 be heaviest and to remain longest on the north shore, and, in general, 
 it is the last of June before that part of the sound is altogether clear. 
 
 In the fall young ice begins to form on the rivers, and in the bays 
 and sheltered places after October 1, and grows stronger and spreads 
 according to the severity of the advancing season. Navigation is 
 considered unsafe in Norton Sound after October 15. 
 
 Currents. There has been no systematic study of the currents of 
 Bering Sea, and the almost constant fogs prevent the navigator from 
 adding much to our meager knowledge concerning them. It is said 
 that in general the currents are greatly influenced by the tide and 
 winds. The following observations apply to the open season, when 
 the flow of the currents is not obstructed by ice: 
 
 Between Cape Cheerful and St. George Island the current is not 
 believed to have any decided set or flow unless influenced by the wind. 
 With a strong wind a current is likely to set with it, but y% point 
 allowance in a course will be sufficient to overcome any set that will 
 be found in this vicinity due to this cause. 
 
 Between St. Matthew and Nunivak Islands the set of the current 
 is northward ; with prevailing northeast winds it sets northwest, and 
 with northwest and southwest winds, northeast. This northerly 
 current continues and increases between St. Lawrence Island and 
 the mainland, being stronger toward the mainland north of the mouth 
 of the Yukon River, where it amounts to about 1 knot, except in the 
 early summer, when, increased by the freshets in the Yukon, it may 
 amount to 2 knots or more. A strong northeasterly current setting 
 on the Yukon flats has been observed, amounting at times to 2J^ 
 knots. The current sets north across Norton Sound to Sledge Island 
 and then follows the coast to Bering Strait. It is strongly marked 
 between Sledge Island and Bering Strait. 
 
 In Bering Strait the current sets north, and when not influenced by 
 wind its velocity is about 2 knots an hour. Protracted northerly- 
 gales which prevail in the autumn change its direction to southward, 
 
228 BERING SEA CURRENTS. 
 
 but on the cessation of the wind it quickly sets north again. Strong 
 southerly gales increase its velocity to 3 knots. The current is 
 stronger east of the Diomede Islands than west of them. 
 
 A current sets strongly from Cape Newenham through Etolin Strait. 
 
 Tidal currents. In the southern part of Bering Sea, inside the 
 100-fathom line, and through the various passes in the Aleutian 
 Islands, the tidal current sets northward or northeastward during 
 the rising tide, and southward or southwestward during the falling 
 tide. In some of the passes it sometimes has a velocity of 9 knots; 
 when clear of the passes its maximum velocity is about 2J^ knots. 
 At the Pribilpf Islands, Nunivak, St. Matthew, and St. Lawrence 
 islands the tidal currents have considerable velocity. The flood 
 current sets eastward and northward and the ebb westward and south- 
 ward. In Bristol Bay the tidal currents have considerable velocity. 
 They have also considerable velocity at the Kuskokwim River and 
 north to the mouth of the Yukon, especially in Etolin Strait and about 
 Cape Vancouver. 
 
 Fog is most prevalent during spring, summer, and early fall, and it 
 generally begins to clear about the middle of October. In summer 
 fog is almost continuous, but few days are clear from morning to 
 night, and the tops of the mountains can seldom be seen. At the 
 surface of the water it is generally sufficiently clear to make out the 
 shore at a distance of 3 or 4 miles, but at times it is so thick that 
 nothing can be made out, and under such conditions strangers should 
 not attempt to make the land. During the summer months the mist 
 and fog are considered to be worse on the south side of the Aleutian 
 Islands than on the north side in their immediate vicinity. 
 
 Weather. The most striking feature about the weather in Bering 
 Sea is its great uncertainty throughout the year. Good weather is 
 rare and not lasting, and the winds can not be depended upon to 
 remain long in one quarter. The late spring and summer are mild 
 and very foggy, with frequent periods of light weather, comparatively 
 few strong winds, and considerable rain. After September 1 gales 
 become frequent and heavy, fogs gradually lessen, and toward the 
 latter part of the month snow often accompanies the storms. During 
 all the fall, gales are frequent, violent, and from almost any quarter. 
 
 During the fall and winter there are often periods of very low 
 barometer (readings below 29.00 being common) accompanied by 
 moderate to strong gales, with rain or snow. These gales, though 
 sometimes very severe, are usually not so strong as would be expected 
 by the fall of the barometer. After December and continuing into 
 tne spring there are often periods of moderate weather, and while 
 severe gales occur, they are less frequent than in the fall. Strong 
 winds orgales from any quarter always bring thick weather, rain, or 
 snow. With easterly or southerly winds the rain is continuous, while 
 with westerly or northerly winds the rain or snow occurs at intervals 
 in squalls, and when the wind subsides the weather is likely to be clear. 
 
 Southeast gales, with f ailing barometer and rising temperature, are 
 almost invariably preceded by an unusual clearness of the air; cirrus 
 clouds are seen southwestward, which gradually thicken and over- 
 spread the sky. The wind usually shifts to southwestward when the 
 barometer ceases to fall, but it sometimes backs from southeast to 
 northeast, and generally goes to northwest before subsiding. Upon 
 abating, the gale is followed by light westerly winds and comparatively 
 clear weather. 
 
BEEING SEA. 229 
 
 BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 Bristol Bay may be said to include all that part of Bering Sea lying 
 east of a line drawn from Cape Sarichef, Unimak Island, to the Kus- 
 kokwim River. Unimak Island and the Alaska Peninsula bound it 
 on the south and east, and separate it from the Pacific Ocean. The 
 Naknek River is at the head of deep-water navigation, while the bay 
 itself terminates in the Kvichak River, a few miles northward. The 
 region about Nushagak River, Kulukak Bay, and the Kuskokwim 
 forms its northwest boundary. 
 
 The shores are usually low and without distinctive features, but 
 high mountain ranges and volcanic cones extend along the central 
 parts of Unimak Island and the Alaska Peninsula. These rugged 
 snow-covered mountains and lofty peaks would serve as unmistaka- 
 ble landmarks were they not obscured by the almost constant fogs 
 which prevail in that region during the summer months. The shore 
 and objects near the sea level are^often seen beneath the fog when the 
 higher lands are obscured, and, therefore, most of the avauable land- 
 marks are found on or near the beach. 
 
 The winds and weather in Bristol Bay and the other parts of Bering 
 Sea visited by the Albatross from the last of May to the 1st of Sep- 
 tember, 1890, may be summarized in a few words. 
 
 Southwest winds prevailed, but we had them frequently from 
 southeast to northwest. It was boisterous weather nearly half the 
 time, but seldom rough enough to interfere with our work. We had 
 several summer gales of moderate force, but no severe storms. Fog 
 and mist prevailed, and a clear day was the rare exception. The 
 tidal currents were strongest in the vicinity of Unimak Pass and at 
 the head of the bay; they were greatly affected, however, by the 
 winds. The flood stream sets northward and slightly inshore along 
 the coasts of Unimak Island and the peninsula, the ebb southward 
 and offshore. The former was invariably the stronger, and proba- 
 bly found an outlet by sweeping past Cape Constantine in the direc- 
 tion of Cape Newenham. 
 
 Reports have been received which indicate an easterly set, variable 
 in velocity, along the northern side of Alaska Peninsula and in Bristol 
 Bay. 
 
 COAST FROM UNIMAK PASS TO POET MOLLER. 
 
 Cape Sarichef, Unimak Island, is described on page 195; it is low 
 with detached rocks close inshore, around which strong tidal cur- 
 rents sweep. The land falls away eastward in a gentle curve, form- 
 ing an open bay, called Dublin Bay, about 4 miles in depth between 
 the cape and Cave Point, which lies 16 miles from the former. This 
 bay may be used as a temporary anchorage by vessels of any size. 
 The holding ground is said to be good. Cave Point is a vertical, 
 rocky cliff, about 150 feet in height, and takes its name from a cave 
 on its face, inhabited by sea birds, which in summer hover about it 
 in thousands, making it conspicuous in clear weather by their num- 
 bers, and in fog by their constant cries. The snow-clad peak of 
 Pogromni Volcano, rising to an altitude of 6,500 feet above the sea, 
 forms a striking background to the low, monotonous coast. 
 
230 BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 Passing Cape Mordvinof, a low, bluff point at out 13 miles from Cave 
 Point, the coast falls away slightly for 6 miles, when it turns abruptly 
 eastward for 5 miles, and then takes a northerly direction, forming 
 Urilia Bay. This bay is open northward, but affords protection 
 from all winds from southward of east or west. The approaches are 
 clear, and the water shoals gradually to 6 fathoms, black sand, about 
 % mile from shore. 
 
 From TJrilia Bay to Isanotski Strait the coast trends in a north- 
 easterly direction, is very low, and has several rocky patches extending 
 y^ to 1 mile from shore, making navigation unsafe inside the 12- 
 f athom line. The volcano of Shishaldin rises 9,387 feet about mid- 
 way between the above points and 7 or 8 miles inland. Isanotski 
 Strait is available only for vessels of the smallest class. 
 
 From the strait to Cape Glazenap, about 19 miles, the coast retains 
 the same general direction and is very low until reaching the latter 
 point, which is oval in form, about 150 feet in height, and has been 
 called Round Point. 
 
 Izembek Bay covers a large area at high tide, but much of it is dry 
 at low water. A small vessel may, however, find a secure harbor 
 behind the cape. The channel follows close around the point, and 
 has a depth of 10 to 12 feet on the bar. 
 
 Amak Island is of volcanic origin, about 2J^ miles in length, 1% 
 miles in width, and 1,682 feet in height. It lies 12 miles northwest 
 from Cape Glazenap. The beaches are mostly huge bowlders and 
 bluffs 30 to 150 feet high. The central peak is a dark-brown rock, 
 bare, rugged, and precipitous. The southeast point is in latitude 
 55 25' N and longitude 163 08' W. There is foul ground off the 
 northwest end of the island, several rocks awash or under water, and 
 Sealion Rock between 2 and 3 miles distant. The latter is several 
 hundred yards in extent and about 150 feet high, its slopes being 
 occupied by an extensive rookery of sea lions. 
 
 A reef about J4 m ^ e l ori g ues on the southeast end of Amak Island ; 
 about 250 yards of this reef shows bare. A reef, which breaks in a 
 moderate swell, has been reported 3 miles about 63 true (NE mag.) 
 from the summit of the island. 
 
 It is reported that a fair lee and anchorage with hard bottom can 
 be found on the southeast side of Amak Island, and one not so good 
 on the southwest side, but the foul south point of the island must be 
 given a wide berth. 
 
 The Kudiakof Islands extend about 19 miles between Cape Glazenap 
 and Moffet Point. They are but little above high water, and some 
 of them are connected by narrow spits at low water. 
 
 From Moffet Point the low coast extends 15 miles to Gerstle Bay, 
 then northward and eastward about 55 miles to Wolf Point, on the 
 western side of the entrance to Port Moller. 
 
 The Kudobin Islands occupy the last 23 miles of this distance. 
 They are very low, and it is difficult to distinguish them from the 
 mainland, the only distinctive feature being a knob about 25 feet 
 high on the east end of Kritskoi. The land between Herendeen 
 Bay and Nelson lagoon is very low. A cannery is operated in Nelson 
 Lagoon, inside the Kudobin Islands, but no directions for reaching 
 it are available. 
 
BRISTOL BAY. 231 
 
 PORT HOLLER. 
 
 The surveys of Port Holier (chart 8833) are incomplete. A party 
 of the Coast and Geodetic Survey made a partial examination in 1910, 
 the work being confined to the vicinity of Entrance Point. The 
 following information is from the report and examination by that 
 party supplemented by later information furnished by the Pacific 
 American Fisheries, which company operates a cannery in the port. 
 
 Port Moller is surrounded by high mountains, and there is a high 
 ridge across its head. The shore is steep and rocky except at the 
 spits. Kudobin Islands are low and afford no definite features on 
 which a bearing can be taken. Doe Point and Point Divide are bluffs 
 and can be seen from some distance outside of Entrance Point. 
 Harbor Point is a low, narrow, grassy sand and shingle spit, which can 
 not be made out distinctly until nearly up with Entrance Point. 
 
 Port Moller and Herendeen Bay are indicated from seaward by a 
 valley receding into the mountains. The land at the entrance is low 
 and the chart indicates extensive shoals in the approach, so that 
 access would be somewhat difficult in bad weather even if the charts 
 were based on an accurate survey. The only channel of which we 
 have any knowledge lies on the eastern side of the entrance, and 
 Entrance Point, a low grassy spit, is the leading mark for entering. 
 It is marked near the end by sand knolls, some noticeably eroded on 
 the offshore side. There is deep water close to its southwest end, 
 but a shoal extends some distance offshore from its outer side. 
 
 In 1910, a depth of 14 feet, with deeper water southwestward, was 
 found 3 miles 329 true (NW 1 A W mag.) from Entrance Point. A 
 report received in 1914 indicates that this shoal is making westward, 
 that its present western limit is about longitude 160 38' W, and 
 that a line drawn 300 true (W by N mag.) from the end of Entrance 
 Point is parallel to the southern edge of the shoal, and passes about 
 34 mile southward of it. 
 
 A shoal with little water over it and on which the sea generally 
 breaks at low water lies about % mile westward (true) from the end 
 of Harbor Point and extends nearly 2 miles in a 354 true (NNW J 
 W mag.) direction. It then turns northward toward Entrance Point 
 for nearly 2 miles. The knuckle at the eastern end of the shoal lies 
 1}4 miles 185 true (S by E J E mag.) from Entrance Point and is a 
 little westward of a line joining Entrance and Harbor Points. The 
 1914 report places the northern limit of this shoal in latitude 55 
 59.6', and its eastern edge as continuing in a direction about 334 
 true (NW mag.) from the limits as described in the first part of this 
 paragraph, and passing about }/% mile to the westward of Entrance 
 Point. 
 
 A channel, having a fairly uniform width of about J^ mile leads 
 between the two shoals here described, and between the south shoal 
 and Entrance Point, thence continuing southward as shown on the 
 chart. On either side of this channel, particularly in the narrower 
 parts, the shoaling is said to be so abrupt that the lead can not be 
 relied upon to give notice of danger in sufficient time to prevent 
 grounding. The bight on the southeast side of Entrance Point is 
 shoal except for the narrow channel which leads up to the wharf. 
 
 A reconnoissance line of soundings shows that the deep channel 
 continues past Harbor Point, lying fairly close to it, and for some 
 
232 BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 distance farther southeastward exists about as shown on the chart. 
 The two shoals southeastward of Harbor Point are about as indicated 
 on the chart, and the bight on the southeast side of Harbor Point is 
 shoal. 
 
 Good anchorage is found about % mile from the outer side of the 
 spit of Harbor Point, the southern end of the point bearing 177 true 
 (SSE mag.), distant about 1J4 miles, in 10 to 15 fathoms. It is well 
 sheltered from the sea in southeast gales, but the wind draws down 
 the bay with great force. The shoals apparently would afford some 
 protection with on-shore winds. Vessels may anchor above Harbor 
 Point, but the shelter is less in southeast gales and is apparently no 
 better with winds from other directions unless from west or north- 
 west. The tidal currents at the anchorage have some strength, and 
 heavy tide rips occur off Harbor Point. 
 
 The Pacific American Fisheries maintain a cannery in Port Moller, 
 its location being about J4 mu<e inside Entrance Point; 24 feet of 
 water is reported at the dock. Fresh water is piped to the dock. 
 
 The following directions for entering were furnished in 1914 by 
 Caj)t. Jackson of the steamer Windber, and verified in 1915 by Capt. 
 Knight of the steamer Pavlof. It must be borne in mind, however, 
 that future changes in the extent and location of the shoals may 
 necessitate radical changes in these directions. In fact, strangers 
 are advised to anchor outside and obtain information from the can- 
 nery before entering : 
 
 From off Walrus Island steer about 120 true (E by S mag.) for the end of Entrance 
 Point. When on the bearing a white beacon on Entrance Point should be on range 
 with another beacon on the high bluff across the bay. Hold this course until % mile 
 off Entrance Point, then haul and round the point not more than % mile off. The 
 range beacons and a number of keg buoys are maintained by the cannery and will lead 
 in deep-water channel after the opening of navigation each season. 
 
 To make the anchorage northward of Harbor Point, pass % mile 
 southwestward of Entrance Point on a southeasterly course, and 
 then bring the point astern on a 174 true (SSE J/ E mag.) course 
 until \y to \y 2 miles from it. Then steer 188 true (S by E mag.), 
 heading to pass about J4 mile westward of the end of Harbor Point. 
 
 HERENDEEN BAY. 
 
 There is no information regarding this region other than that 
 which may be taken from chart 8833. In using the chart it should 
 be borne in mind that, except for the area already described, the sur- 
 veys upon which it is based were made in 1890, and that all informa- 
 tion available points to extensive changes since that time, particu- 
 larly in those areas exposed to the action of the sea. 
 
 Mine Harbor is small but free from dangers, except Midway Reef, 
 which extends y% mile from its eastern shore and shows at half tide. 
 Anchor northwestward of Midway Reef in 12 to 15 fathoms, and if 
 intending to remain any time it is advisable to moor. A reef extends 
 600 yards westward from Crow Point, the south point of Mine Harbor. 
 Crow Reef, bare at low water, lies % mile westward of Crow Point 
 and Yi mile southward of Bluff Point. 
 
 Tides. It is high water in Mine Harbor, full and change, at 8h. 
 Om., rise 15 feet, and it occurs at Entrance Point about 2 hours earlier, 
 with a rise of 10 to 12 feet. 
 
BRISTOL BAY. 233 
 
 Hague Channel is 1 mile wide at its northern entrance, and is con- 
 tracted to less than ^ mile between Point Divide and Doe Point. 
 The tidal currents are very strong, and near high water they sweep 
 across the narrow channel and over the flats, making it impossible to 
 steer a compass course. They are more regular near low tide, which 
 is the best time to make the passage, as the channel is indicated by 
 the flats showing above water on either hand. 
 
 Johnston Channel, Herendeen Bay, has 7 to 15 fathoms, but is very 
 narrow with steep sides. It is difficult to find, but once in, the 
 navigation is comparatively simple, as the tidal currents follow the 
 general direction of deep water. The width of the channel at the 
 northern entrance, % mile south of Point Divide, is *%. mile, with 
 little variation until near the southern extremity, where it contracts 
 to 250 yards. Having cleared the channel and entered the upper bay, 
 there is ample room and depth of water in every direction, Crow Reef , 
 off the south point of Mine Harbor, being the only outlying danger. 
 
 Anchorages may be found anywhere oetween Walrus Island and 
 Entrance Point in case of fog, and a vessel may anchor in Hague 
 Channel, but the tidal currents are strong. There are fairly good 
 anchorages under the north side of Point Divide and Doe Point, 
 where, near the bank, a vessel will be out of the strength of the cur- 
 rent. The Albatross anchored in mid-channel, 1 mile inside of the 
 above points, at the time of spring tides, and the flood came in with a 
 bore between 2 and 3 feet in height, the patent log registering a 
 9-knot current for some time, with a swell which occasionally splashed 
 into the scuppers. There is a fair anchorage off the northern entrance 
 to Johnston Channel, and an excellent one at its southern extremity, 
 off Marble Point, just north of Shingle Point, or, in fact, almost any- 
 where in the upper bay. The last quarter of the flood tide is the best 
 time to pass through this channel. 
 
 High land rises at the base of Harbor Point and extends northward 
 and eastward near the middle of the peninsula. Point Divide is 50 
 feet in height, and mountain ranges rise a few miles back. The coal 
 measures are found between Mine Harbor and the head of Port Moller. 
 Doe Point is 40 feet in height, while the rest of Deer Island and the 
 mainland south and west of it are generally lower. The southern 
 shores of Herendeen Bay are mountainous, with intervening valleys, 
 the whole face of the country being covered with rank grass and wild 
 flowers during the summer months; but there is no timber, except 
 occasional small poplars, alder bushes, and willows. Fresh winds, 
 with fog and mist, blow across the low divides from the Pacific, 
 obscuring the sun and greatly increasing the rainfall in Port Moller 
 and vicinity. 
 
 There are no large fresh-water streams entering the bay, which 
 /probably accounts for the absence of Eskimos. 
 
 PORT MOLLER TO KVICHAK RIVER. 
 
 The coast is low for 19 miles between Entrance Point and Cape 
 Kutuzof, which rises in a rounded bluff to an elevation of 150 feet. 
 
 Cape Seniavin, 11 miles northward and eastward, is a rocky point 
 75 feet high. Passing it the low, monotonous beach continues to 
 the Seal Islands, the only exception being a cluster of small hillocks 
 near the beach, 12 miles from Cape Seniavin. 
 
234 BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 Seal Islands are several small islets, but little above high water, 
 strung along near the coast for about 10 miles; thence to Strogonof 
 Point the land continues very low. 
 
 Port Heiden is said to be a good harbor, but it has not been ex- 
 amined. The approach to the port will be recognized by high, bold 
 headlands, which rise from its northern shore. Another report states 
 that intricate and irregular sand banks not shown on the chart are 
 found for a distance of 5 miles offshore. Depths of 3 fathoms are 
 reported on these shoals. 
 
 Chistiakof Island, low and crescent shaped, forms the seaward side 
 of the harbor, the channel lying between its northern extremity and 
 a reef which makes westward about 3 miles from the land about 2 
 miles northward from the island. An extensive reef is also reported 
 to extend about 1 J^ miles off the northwest side of Chistiakof Island. 
 It is reported that there is a rise and fall of 18 feet on the largest 
 spring tides, and about 12 to 14 feet on ordinary tides. 
 
 Until a proper survey of the Bristol Bay region has been made it 
 must be regarded by mariners as a dangerous locality to navigate; 
 it is only by the greatest vigilance and constant use of the lead that 
 disaster can be avoided upon approaching the land. This is particu- 
 larly true of the northeast arms and approaches which receive the 
 waters of the great salmon streams on which all the Bering Sea 
 canneries are located. 
 
 These rivers are the Igushik, Wood, and Nushagak, emptying into 
 Nushagak Bay; the Kvichak, Alagnak, Naknek, and Ugaguk, which 
 empty into Kvichak Bay; and the Ugashik, next southward of the 
 Ugaguk. These rivers are large and discharge a great quantity of 
 water into wide indentations, locally still retaining the name of rivers, 
 which open on the arms of the great bay. The banks of the rivers 
 are frequently marshy, generally muddy, and the discolored water is 
 charged with a large amount of sediment, which is deposited, forming 
 the dangers to be encountered. 
 
 On account of the funnel-shaped configuration of the bays and 
 river entrances, the tidal currents run with great force, having a 
 velocity at times of at least 6 knots, and the tides have a rise and fall 
 of 18 to 24 feet; vast areas of shoals are uncovered at low water, 
 leaving only pools and shallows, and generally narrow channels 
 between. Navigation in the arms and approaches is only success- 
 fully accomplished at or near high water, even by those thoroughly 
 acquainted with the channels. 
 
 From Port Heiden the same low coast extends to Cape Menshikof 
 in nearly a direct line, the high land of Port Heiden gradually receding 
 from the coast. A shoal inlet or river entrance lies about 10 miles 
 southward of Cape Menshikof. It has sometimes been mistaken for 
 the Ugashik River. Cape Menshikof is a high bluff, extending some 
 distance along shore, with hilly country back of it. 
 
 False Ugashik is about 10 miles below the Ugashik River, and 
 because of the similarity of the shore line of the two, False Ugashik 
 has often been mistaken for the Ugashik. The charts show a broken 
 coast line where this inlet should be. 
 
 Ugashik River is large and empties into the wide indentation 
 between Capes Menshikof and Greig, the distance between the capes 
 being about 15 miles. The capes can be approached from westward 
 as close as about 2 miles. The coast between the capes including 
 
BRISTOL BAY. 235 
 
 the river valley appears low. Smoky Point, a bluff on the north side 
 at the entrance, is about 7 miles southward of Cape Greig. Here 
 the river is about 4 miles wide at high water. The indentation be- 
 tween the capes and the mouth of the river are filled with shoals. 
 There is a channel with about 10 feet at low water, which is buoyed 
 during the season for the use of the cannery vessels, but a stranger 
 could not follow it with safety. 
 
 There is communication by telephone among some of the canneries 
 at the head of Bristol Bay from Ugashik River to Nushagak River. 
 
 Cape Greig is a prominent brownish bluff, with a few yellow verti- 
 cal stripes, 243 feet high, extending several miles along shore. It 
 appears to be the seaward end of a low ridge with low land on each 
 side. This and a peculiar notched mountain some distance inland 
 are good marks. The low coast continues from the cape to the 
 Ugaguk River and thence to the Naknek River with hardly a dis- 
 tinguishing feature except Johnston Hill a solitary elevation 5 miles 
 from the beach and about 9 miles southward from the mouth of the 
 Naknek. 
 
 Ugaguk River empties into the outer limit of Kvichak Bay about 
 30 miles north of Cape Greig, and has Cape Chichagof for its northern 
 entrance point. It is a large river, about 2 miles wide at the cannery, 
 and is the outlet of Lake Becharof. It flows in a general westerly 
 direction for about 50 miles. Tidewater is said to extend about 25 
 miles up the river; very little is known of the locality. 
 
 The lower part of the river is a wide bay, contracted at the mouth, 
 and, like other rivers of this district, at low water a large part of the 
 bed is exposed in shoals and banks with narrow channels winding 
 through them. At the entrance shoal water extends several miles 
 offshore, and the small cannery steamers enter only from half to full 
 tide. The channel into this river is wider and deeper than in Naknek 
 and Kvichak, and, if it were properly buoyed, vessels of moderate 
 draft could enter at high water, but there is no swinging room inside. 
 The cannery transporting vessel, a bark of 554 tons, was carried in at 
 high water and moored head and stern alongside the low-water bank. 
 A cannery is located at Ugaguk, and another on the north shore 
 northwestward from Ugaguk. 
 
 Naknek River may be considered as the head of deep-water naviga- 
 tion in Bristol Bay. It enters Kvichak Bay on the eastern side, 
 about 25 miles southward of Kogiung. The river has its source in 
 the large lake of the same name as the river, on which two villages are 
 located. The river is large and about 60 miles in length. 
 
 It is said that tide water extends about 25 miles from the mouth, 
 where the river is about % mile in width, and that at the mouth the 
 extreme rise and fall of spring tides is over 20 feet. 
 
 Shoals and banks, many of which uncover at low water, fill the 
 lower course of the river and extend 3 or 4 miles off the mouth, then 
 trend around northward and join the body of the banks that fill the 
 upper end of Kvichak Bay. At low water the channel between the 
 banks and flats is very shallow; cannery steamers, drawing but 7 
 feet of water, await half tide before entering. Navigation is done on 
 the rising tide or at high water. High water, fuh 1 and change, Ih. 
 5m.; rise 23 feet. 
 
 The mouth of the river is about 3 miles wide between the headlands, 
 which are bluffs about 100 feet high; within the entrance the banks 
 
236 BBISTOL BAY. 
 
 converge quite rapidly, and about 4 miles from the mouth the river is 
 about % mue wide. 
 
 The Albatross anchored in 6 fathoms about 6 miles 247 true 
 (SW mag.) from Cape Suworof, the water shoaling rapidly to 3 
 fathoms toward the mouth of the Kvichak River. 
 
 KVICHAK BAY AND RIVER. 
 
 The large arm at the head of Bristol Bay, extending northeast and 
 bounded on the south by a line from the south entrance point of 
 Ugaguk River to Etolin Point, has been designated as Kvichak Bay. 
 The upper part of the bay is very shoal, and, as the current is strong, 
 it can be safely navigated only by small vessels built to resist the shock 
 of repeated grounding. It is said that the banks from the Etolin 
 side project halfway across the bay, and, with those from the penin- 
 sula side, confine the channel to a comparatively narrow limit; a 
 seagoing vessel, however, under skillful guidance and with local 
 knowledge, may reach a point a few miles below the mouth of the 
 Naknek River, which is about 30 miles below the head of the bay; 
 but some cannery men consider the risk too great to carry their 
 transport vessels to this point and leave them there for the season. 
 
 Above the mouth of the Naknek River the shoals begin to extend 
 across the channel, and, as a point higher up is reached, the whole bay 
 at low water is filled with uncovered banks, having shallow, narrow 
 channels winding through them. 
 
 At the head of the bay is the mouth of Kvichak River, which is the 
 outlet to the great lakes, Iliamna and Clark, lying on the western side 
 of the mountain system bordering Cook Inlet. 
 
 This region has become an important one in recent years on account 
 of the rapid development of the canning industry. There are at 
 present 19 canneries and salting stations in Kvichak Bay. 
 
 The following information was furnished in 1916 by the Alaska 
 Packers Association: 
 
 Tides. The rise and fall of tide at the Alaska Packers Association's 
 Kvichak cannery is normally about 24 feet and the June spring tides 
 about 28 feet. These figures are approximate only, there being no 
 available data on tides at this point. 
 
 Weather and ice. The weather, during the operating seasons from 
 May to September, for the years 1912 to 1915, was very mild and no 
 ice pack was encountered by the vessels en route to this district. 
 However, ice is sometimes encountered in Bering Sea soon after pass- 
 ing through Unimak Pass. At times this is quite extensive, and if 
 held by the winds will cause considerable delay to vessels in reaching 
 anchorage in Kvichak Bay. In 1911, the last season during which 
 there was any extensive ice pack, vessels were unable to proceed from 
 the ship anchorage off Naknek River toward Kvichak River until June 
 1, as the ice had not broken up in the river until that date. 
 
 Currents. The current in Kvichak Bay and River is very strong, 
 and as a consequence the channel shifts more or less each year. 
 
 There is but slight variation from year to year in the approaches to 
 the ship anchorage off the Naknek River, and after passing this 
 anchorage the land is low and flat on both sides of the bay with no 
 distinguishing marks that would be of any aid to navigation. 
 
BBISTOL BAY. 237 
 
 On account of the method of fishing by means of drift nets, buoys 
 would be a constant menace to the gear; and no navigation aids are 
 maintained by any of the companies operating at this point. 
 
 Pilots. Competent pilots can be obtained by sending a wireless 
 message to any of the cannery stations operating in this district. 
 
 Beyond Cape Suworof the 'bay is obstructed with shoals and the 
 channel becomes very narrow and tortuous. At low water only 
 about 3 feet can be carried through. At or near high water, vessels 
 of more than 12 feet draft would find it difficult to use the channel. 
 Vessels of 14 feet draft have ascended the Kvichak River as far as 
 the mouth of the Alagnak River. In this reach there are only three 
 places where a vessel of 200 feet or lesj in length may anchor. The 
 first is at Graveyard Point; the second is near the mouth of Jensen 
 Creek; and the third is between the upper cannery of the Alaska 
 Packers Association and the mouth of the Alagnak River. 
 
 Directions. With Cape Greig, just north of Ugashik, bearing 112 
 true (E mag.), distant 25 miles, fc the course to the anchorage is ap- 
 proximately 39 true (N by E 3^ E mag.). Follow this course care- 
 fully, using the lead when closing in with the land, until 4 miles 
 beyond Johnstons Hill, where anchorage should be obtained 5 miles 
 offshore in 7 to 8 fathoms at low water. 
 
 The first vessels arriving in the spring should feel their way with 
 the lead and locate their position when anchoring. Vessels arriving 
 after about May 15 will have no difficulty in obtaining a suitable 
 anchorage, as there are always a number of vessels in the bay by that 
 time. 
 
 Kvichak River from Kogiung to Iliamna Lake is 50 miles long. In 
 the upper half of its course it has a current of 3 to 6 knots, and is 
 much broken by islands and bars into narrow, shallow channels. 
 The lower half is tidal. 
 
 The river is navigable by cannery tenders for about 22 miles above 
 Kogiung, and by launches and Columbia River boat 5 (when favored 
 by strong winds) for its entire length. 
 
 Iliamna Lake is about 70 miles long and generally from 7 to 17 
 miles wide. It is about 50 feet above tide water. Reported sound- 
 ings indicate a depth, at the east end, of many hundred feet. 
 
 The lake is usually frozen from late in December until late in May. 
 The snow usually leaves the low ground in April, remaining until 
 June in the pass between Iliamna Bay and Iliamna. Some snow 
 may be expected in September, but the ground is not permanently 
 covered at low altitudes until some months later. 
 
 Iliamna is the largest settlement. It is situated on Iliamna River, 
 3J^ miles above its mouth, and 10 miles from Iliamna Bay. It has a 
 United States commissioner, a Government school, and three stores. 
 
 A good horse trail leads from the head of Iliamna Bay to Iliarnna, 
 a distance of 10 miles, crossing a 900-foot summit 3 miles west of 
 the bay. Another trail leads from the head of Cottonwood Bay to 
 Iliamna, 17 miles, crossing three summits 1,700, 1,500, and 1,975 
 feet high, at 3^, 5, and 13 miles from Cottonwood Bay, descending 
 to 1,400 and 600 feet between the summits. These trails can goner- 
 ally be used by horses from June 1 to November 1. Dogs are used 
 during the remainder of the year. 
 
 Iliamna can also be reached by a portage from the head of Kami- 
 shak Bay to the head of Kakhonak Bay. This portage is said to be 
 
238 BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 an easy one over a low pass, but it is not much used except by natives, 
 because of the difficulty of landing supplies on the uncharted coast of 
 Kamishak Bay. 
 
 From Iliamna all parts of Iliamna Lake and Kvichak River can 
 be reached in boats, there being several large sailboats and a gasoline 
 launch at the village. 
 
 Newhalen River is about 20 miles long. The unper 10 miles can 
 be navigated by canoes and poling boats. Rapids and reported 
 falls make even canoe navigation impossible for the lower 10 miles. 
 These rapids may be avoided by a 5-mile portage. 
 
 Lake Clark is about 45 miles long and from 1 to 3^ miles wide. It 
 is about 220 feet above tide water, and is tributary to Iliamna Lake 
 and Newhalen River. 
 
 NUSHAGAK BAY AND RIVER 
 
 are important on account of the extensive salmon fishing and a 
 number of large canneries which are operated during the summer. 
 The entrance of the bay is on the north side of Bristol Bay, between 
 longitude 158 18' and 158 40' W. It is 15 miles wide at the en- 
 trance between Protection Point and Etolin Point, and extends 
 about 12 miles in a northwesterly (mag.) direction to Ekuk, where it 
 is 7 miles wide. Here it turns to a northerly (mag.) direction for 9 
 miles to Nushagak, where it is about 3 miles wide. The surveys 
 extend from the entrance to the mouth of Wood River, the results of 
 which are shown on chart 9050. 
 
 Nushagak Bay and River so far as surveyed are obstructed by 
 extensive shoals near the shores, and by long bars, partly bam at 
 low water, which generally extend in the direction of the channels. 
 In the absence of aids, navigation is safe only in the daytime, when 
 the marks, some of which are distant peaks, can be seen. The worst 
 dangers in the approach are the extensive shoals southward and south- 
 eastward of Cape Constantine, the outer one being nearly out of sight 
 of land. 
 
 The peninsula of Cape Constantino is low, rolling tundra country, 
 with bluffs in places, the greatest elevation being shown on the chart. 
 Nichols Hills, 125 feet high, are small sand knolls, the highest part of 
 a ridge that follows the eastern side of the cape, and lie 5 miles north- 
 westward of Protection Point. At the southwest end of the cape 
 (lat. 58 26' N) and on the southeast side of the cape (lat. 58 25' N) 
 are the entrances of two lagoons that can be entered by boats at high 
 water when there is no surf. 
 
 Shoals with little water on them in places extend 6 miles southward 
 from Cape Constantine, and the outer shoal (Ustiugof) lies 8 to 9 
 miles southeastward from the cape. These shoals are in the form of 
 long ridges trending in the direction of the set of the tidal currents 
 around the cape to and from Nushagak Bay. They are steep-to, 
 especially on the off-shore side, and the lead will not give sufficient 
 warning to avoid them. Ustiugof Shoal is a narrow ridge with a 
 least depth of 13 feet, and has a length of 8 miles in a 52 true (NNE 
 % E mag.) direction with depths less than 4 fathoms. Its southern 
 end lies in lat. 58 14.5' N; long. 158 46' W. There are depths of 
 11 fathoms or more close to its southeast side. From a vessel near 
 the shoal Cape Constantine can be seen in clear weather, but the 
 
NUSHAGAK BAY. 239 
 
 greatest care is required when southward or southeastward of the 
 cape and in sight of it. The shoaler ridges are generally indicated 
 by rips, or breakers at low water, but there is generally nothing to 
 indicate Ustiugof Shoal. 
 
 Protection Point, the eastern end of Cape Constantine, is a low 
 marshy spit which extends 1J^ miles from the higher land. There 
 is the entrance of a lagoon on the north side of the point 2 miles west- 
 ward of its end, which is closed at low water, but at other times boats 
 can enter, although the current is strong on the ebb. A narrow shoal 
 awash in places at low water extends 4% miles southward from the 
 point, its southern half lying about 1 mile from shore; there is a 
 narrow channel for boats between the point and the north end of the 
 shoal. A detached shoal with 15 feet on it lies 2 miles eastward from 
 the point. 
 
 The low spit eastward of Nichols Hills forms a cove, dry at low 
 water, that can be entered by boats at high water and affords shelter 
 except with northerly winds. 
 
 Igushik River has three salteries on the west side near the entrance, 
 and vessels up to about 24 feet draft have been taken out. The chan- 
 nel into the river is not surveyed. The flat on the eastern side of the 
 channel leading to the mouth of the river shows for nearly its full 
 length at low water. The bar at the entrance of the channel has a 
 depth of 12 to 14 feet on it, and lies about iy^ miles southeastward 
 of the mouth of the river and 8% miles northward from Protection 
 Point. 
 
 Igushik Ridge, on the west side of Igushik River, is prominent, 
 having a greatest elevation of about 260 feet near its northern end, 
 where it breaks sharply to the river. The peninsula eastward of the 
 river is low, and on its eastern side is a slatted beacon, upper half 
 black, lower half white. The range of the beacon and the summit at 
 the north end of Igushik Ridge marks the turning point for the cross- 
 over southwestward of Ekuk. 
 
 Snake River is not used except by fishing boats. The channel lead- 
 ing to the mouth of the river has a depth of about 8 feet, and is well 
 defined at low water by the flats, which uncover, except at the en- 
 trance, the latter lying about 3 miles northeastward of the beacon 
 described in the previous paragraph. 
 
 The land on the eastern side of the bay is low, rolling tundra, and 
 the entrance point is rounding without a distinct point. Etolin Point 
 is here applied to the middle and highest one (elevation 90 feet) of 
 three prominent bluffs, 1 to 1^ miles apart. A rounded hill about 
 150 feet high lies 1J miles northeastward of Etolin Point, and is one 
 of the first summits to show when approaching. A higher ridge lies 
 1^2 miles farther inland, but neither is prominent. 
 
 The 3-fathom curve lies 6J/2 miles, and the 5-fathom curve 8 miles, 
 from the shore southeastward of Etolin Point. The shoaling is 
 gradual, and the lead is a good guide in approaching the eastern shore 
 when outside of a line joining Etolin and Protection Points. Above 
 this line there are long shoals, most of which show in places at low 
 water, in the eastern half of the bay. 
 
 Ekuk Bluff is 170 feet high and is prominent from Nushagak Bay. 
 A spit extends 1 J4 miles northward from the bluff. Ekuk is a native 
 village on the spit at the foot of the bluff, and there is a cannery on 
 
240 NUSHAGAK BAY. 
 
 the north end of the spit. The lagoon inside the spit is bare at low 
 water. 
 
 Clark Point is low and is marked by two canneries and a high water 
 tank. A ridge, 150 feet high with a bluff at the water, lies % mile 
 southward from the point and is the prominent feature from the bay. 
 
 Clark Slough, 1 ^ miles northeastward of Clark Point, is navigable 
 for launches about 17 miles at high water. The bar at its entrance 
 has a depth of about 3 feet at low water. There is a cannery on the 
 northern side at its entrance. 
 
 Nushagak post office is on Nushagak Point, 6J^ miles northward 
 from Clark Point. There are two canneries, a school, and Russian 
 church. The point is a prominent ridge 250 feet high, eastward of 
 which is a deep valley. On the eastern shore 2 and 5 miles north- 
 ward of Nushagak are a disused cannery and a native village. 
 
 The western shore from Coffee Point to Snag Point is generally a 
 line of bluffs. Dillingham post office, a native village, and a cannery 
 are on Bradford Point abreast Williams Island, the latter grassy and 
 awash at highest tides. The Government courthouse is at Dilling- 
 ham. There are two canneries and a high tank west of Snag Point. 
 
 Wood River has its entrance northward of Snag Point, and has a 
 length of about 24 miles to Aleknagik Lake. Its width varies from 
 about 600 yards in its lower part to about 50 yards where it joins the 
 lake. A depth of 3 to 3 J^ feet at low water can be carried 15 miles up 
 the river and not more than 2 J^ feet to the lake, though at high water 
 4 feet can be carried this distance. The lake is about 24 miles long. 
 There is a cannery on the south shore, just inside Snag Point. 
 
 Prominent features. Northward of the bay is a chain of prominent 
 mountains, some of which are described in the sailing directions. 
 They are snow covered in early summer, but bare except in the ravines 
 by the middle of July. In clear weather the peaks show from a long 
 distance seaward, but much of the tune they are obscured by clouds 
 and haze. Many of the summits are shown on the chart. 
 
 Channels. The channel generally used is near the middle of the 
 bay, and leads in a depth of about 16 feet over the "outer bar," lying 
 7 miles 203 true (S H w mag.) from Ekuk Bluff. Southwestward of 
 Ekuk the channel crosses the bay over several bars where there are 
 depths of 12 to 14 feet. It then follows the eastern shore to the 
 anchorage off Clark Point. The deepest draft of the cannery vessels 
 entering the bay is about 24 feet. 
 
 The channel on the eastern side above Clark Point shoals gradually 
 to 8 feet at Nushagak. 
 
 The channel to the canneries on the western side crosses the river 
 at Clark Point, where the depth is about 12 feet, and follows the 
 western shore above Coffee Point at a distance of about ]/ mile. 
 
 Anchorages. There is no anchorage in the outer bay sheltered 
 from all winds. In southwest weather the western side of the bay 
 should be selected, and in northeast weather the eastern side. With 
 winds from east to south (mag.) there is no shelter, and a heavy sea 
 makes into the bay. The strong current causes a vessel at anchor to 
 lie stern or broadside to the sea when the wind opposes the current. 
 The bars seem to afford little protection. In northerly weather any 
 part of the bay is sheltered, but the wind does not appear to blow 
 with force from that direction during the summer. 
 
NUSHAGAK BAY. 241 
 
 There is good anchorage, sheltered from southwest winds, for ves- 
 sels of 12 feet or less draft 1 mile 21 true (N mag.) from Protection 
 Point in about 3^ fathoms. Deeper draft vessels should anchor 
 farther northeastward. 
 
 Above Ekuk Spit good anchorage will be found wherever the depth 
 will permit. The cannery vessels are anchored or moored off their 
 respective plants, except those at Nushagak, which are anchored in 
 the channel between it and Clark Point. This part of the bay is 
 very choppy in heavy weather, but the sea seldom, if ever, is heavy 
 enough to endanger a vessel. The bottom is sand, but the anchor 
 holds well if given sufficient scope, say 60 fathoms. The currents 
 are strong, and care should be taken to avoid dragging. Vessels 
 remaining long are anchored in line in the channel to interfere as 
 little as possible with the nets. 
 
 Supplies. The nearest point at which coal can be purchased is 
 Unalaska. Some provisions can be obtained at the companies' 
 stores. Fresh meat is not generally obtainable, and game is scarce. 
 Plenty of fish can be had during the season. Fresh water can be 
 boated off from the cannery wharves. The cannery launches and 
 tugs go to the wharves at high water. That part of the cannery 
 wharves extending beyond high water is removed during the winter. 
 The water is fresh at some of the river mouths on the last of the ebb, 
 but it is too muddy for boilers or drinking. Northward of Dilling- 
 ham there is a sparse growth of timber, which becomes heavy farther 
 inland. Southward of Dillingham there are only occasional clumps 
 of alder bushes. 
 
 Repairs. The large tides and flats make it easy to beach a vessel 
 of moderate draft (say 18 feet). A good place is at Clark Point just 
 above the cannery. Small machine repairs can generally be done at 
 the companies' shops. 
 
 Communication. The mail schedule is monthly, by steamer during 
 the summer from Seward by way of Unalaska, and in winter from 
 Katmai by dog team. Some of the canneries have communication 
 by telephone, and there are radio stations at Clark Point and 
 Nushagak. There is little travel in summer except by boat on 
 account of the soft tundra country and numerous lakes. There are 
 some small native villages above Ekuk, and a few white men remain 
 during the winter. 
 
 Weather. The weather is variable, but it is considered better 
 than farther westward. Spells of bad weather occur, and their dura- 
 tion increases in the late summer. In August and September, 1909, 
 there was much stormy weather. Southwesterly winds predomi- 
 nated in the early summer, and easterly winds later. 
 
 Easterly winds bring thick weather and rain, and are accompanied 
 by low or falling barometer. Southwesterly winds, if moderate, 
 bring fair weather, but if strong, bring rain. Northwesterly winds 
 bring fine, clear weather, but seldom blow steadily. In settled 
 weather the wind may be light from any direction, accompanied by 
 showers. After a gale there is usually no shifting of the wind or 
 sudden breaking of the storm, but the wind decreases, and there is a 
 gradual return to fair weather. 
 
 Fog sometimes sets in from sea, but there is little fog during the 
 summer. 
 
 31056 16 ]6 
 
242 NUSHAGAK BAY. 
 
 Ice. Nushagak Bay is usually open to navigation the latter part 
 of May, but the movement of tne ice is variable, depending on the 
 direction of the wind. Northeast winds drive it out of the bay. It 
 is stated that the arrival of the cannery vessels has been as late as 
 June 17. The cannery vessels leave Bristol Bay the latter part of 
 August, the pack having been completed. It is not known when ice 
 begins to form, but it is probably late in the fall. 
 
 Tides are influenced to some extent by strong winds. The cur- 
 rents have considerable strength, the ebb being the stronger, on 
 account of the discharge from the rivers. The maximum ebb current 
 observed is 3.8 miles, and flood, 2.9 miles. The ebb usually begins 
 shortly before high water and continues to run after low water, 
 roughly about 6^ hours ebb and 6 hours flood. The period of slack 
 water is usually short. The currents generally set fair with the chan- 
 nels, but in navigating the bay the course is often across the current, 
 and allowance must be made for it. 
 
 Currents. The currents follow in general the direction of the 
 channel; the velocity is influenced by freshets and continued winds, 
 which also affect the times of slack water. A current of over 5 knots 
 may be experienced at tunes. 
 
 NOTE. The times given in the Tide Tables for Kodiak are expressed 
 in one hundred and fiftieth meridian time ; while the time used locally 
 is one hundred and sixty-fifth meridian time; the following figures 
 applied to the Kodiak one hundred and fiftieth meridian time gave 
 the time of slack water or strength of current in one hundred and 
 sixty-fifth meridian time direct. 
 
 Off Protection Point. The mean velocity of the current at strength 
 is 2.2 knots on the flood and 3 knots on the ebb. Slack water before 
 the flood occurs at the time of low water at Kodiak, and slack water 
 before the ebb 30 minutes before the time of high water at Kodiak. 
 
 Off Etolin Point. The mean velocity of the current at strength is 
 2 knots on the flood and 2.5 on the ebb. Slack water before the flood 
 occurs 30 minutes after the time of low water at Kodiak, and slack 
 water before the ebb at the time of high water at Kodiak. 
 
 Off Clark Point. The mean velocity of the current at strength is 
 2.3 knots on the flood and 3.2 on the ebb. Slack water before the 
 flood occurs 1 hour 20 minutes after the time of low water at Kodiak, 
 and slack water before the ebb 40 minutes after the time of high water 
 at Kodiak. In three days observations, 2.5 knots was the greatest 
 f.ood and 3.8 the greatest ebb current observed. 
 
 Off Coffee Point. The mean velocity of the current at strength is 
 2.5 knots on the flood and 3.4 on the ebb. Slack water before the 
 flood occurs 1 hour 50 minutes after the time of low water at Kodiak, 
 and slack water before the ebb 50 minutes after the time of high water 
 at Kodiak. 
 
 Between Clark and Coffee points. The greatest strength of the flood 
 or ebb occurs 4 hours after the time of low water and high water at 
 Kodiak, respectively. 
 
 Off Dillingham. The mean velocity of the current at strength is 
 2.3 knots on the flood and 3.2 knots on the ebb. Slack water before 
 the flood occurs 2 hours 20 minutes after the time of low water at 
 Kodiak, and slack water before the ebb 1 hour 30 minutes after the 
 time of high water at Kodiak. 
 
BRISTOL BAY. . 243 
 
 DIRECTIONS, NUSHAGAK BAY AND RIVER. 
 
 The channels and bars are probably subject to constant change due 
 to the action of currents, and to a smaller extent by the action of the 
 sea. Changes of considerable extent are reported by those of long 
 experience. A margin of safety should therefore be allowed for the 
 soundings found by the survey. It is also well to remember that with 
 a very low tide the water may fall as much as 2 feet below the plane 
 of reference of the chart. 
 
 The navigation of the bay is not easy, and a stranger should proceed 
 with great caution. Tide rips may be taken as good evidence of shoals. 
 The shoals are long ridges trending in the direction of the set of the 
 tidal currents, and a course should not be laid across the currents 
 unless sure of the position, as the danger of stranding is greatly 
 increased. A stranger, unless sure of his position, should navigate 
 only on a rising tide. 
 
 It is recommended for vessels bound to Nushagak Bay to make 
 Cape Greig, which is high and easily recognized, and then shape the 
 course for the entrance, favoring the Etolin Point side in preference 
 to the Cape Constantine side. The currents that may be experienced 
 when crossing from Cape Greig are not known, but there may be con- 
 siderable set. Great care should therefore be exercised in approaching 
 the entrance, and the lead should be used constantly. The land at 
 the entrance when first seen in approaching is indefinite, and presents 
 no feature that can be readily identified. 
 
 Capt. McMullen, of the steamer Dora, makes the foUowing sugges- 
 tions for approaching Nushagak Bay: From Amak Island steer to 
 pass about 10 miles off Port Heiden, as there are some large houses 
 there which are easily seen over Chistiakof Island. A good departure 
 can be taken from here in daylight, as the shore along the coast has 
 no other landmarks to be taken as a guide. From Port Heiden run 
 up along the coast until Cape Greig is abeam, distant about 10 miles, 
 then haul up for Nushagak Bay, course 344 true (NW % N mag.) ; 
 if the tide is ebbing allow about % point to the right, and the same 
 to the left if the tide is flooding. This course should lead to a posi- 
 tion about 5 miles off Protection Point when abeam. 
 
 The usual route up Nushagak Bay is to pass 5 or 6 miles off Protec- 
 tion Point, where there is a black and white beacon about 30 feet 
 high, and shape the course for a position with the highest part of 
 Ekuk Bluff bearing 58 true (NE % N mag.), distant 4J^ miles. If 
 the mountains northward are showing, the range of peak X in line 
 with the point where the slopes of peaks T and S meet will lead to 
 that position; the course on the range is 342 true (NW y% N mag.), 
 passing 5% miles off Protection Point, and the distance above Pro- 
 tection Point is 14^ miles. There is a break of considerable breadth 
 to the right of the range peaks, between them and the prominent 
 notched peak marked E on the chart. Peak X is the left one of a 
 pair of sharp peaks, the right one being hidden behind S when on the 
 range. 
 
 On this course the lead should be kept going constantly, not only 
 to insure the immediate safety of the vessel, but also to pick up the 
 16-foot shoal which crosses the channel 10 J^ miles above Protection 
 Point abeam. In thick weather, particularly, the identification of 
 this shoal not only fixes the position of the vessel, but also shows how 
 
244 NUSHAGAK BAY. 
 
 much allowance must be made for current in running down, by log, 
 the remaining four miles to the change of course. During the sum- 
 mer a spar buoy is usually maintained by the cannery people to 
 mark the change of course from range A to range B. 
 
 In clear weather, by far the best method of navigating the bay is 
 by means of horizontal angles measured with the sextant and plotted 
 on the chart by means of the three-arm protractor. Capt. McMullen 
 used this method in preference to any other, and commends it highly. 
 
 Follow the range 14 y^ miles above Protection Point until the 
 prominent red water tank standing above the canneries just clear of 
 the bluff at Clark Point shows in the middle of a deep depression in the 
 ridge, 1% miles eastward of Nushagak Point. At this point the 
 beacon on the shore eastward of Igushik River will be in line with the 
 summit at the north end of Igushik Ridge, bearing 278 true (WSW 
 % W mag.). The left end of the mountains northwestward will also 
 be approximately in line with the north foot of Igushik Ridge. 
 
 Steer for the water tank at Clark Point on the range described in 
 the ^receding paragraph, course 32 true (N byE mag.), for 1 mile, 
 crossing a bar with 12 to 14 feet over it, until the highest part of Ekuk 
 Bluff bears 66 true (NE mag.). Then head for the bluff, taking care 
 to keep the bearing on and not to be set off by the current, which 
 leads across two bars in a depth of over 14 feet. Continue this course 
 for 2*^ miles until about 1 mile from the bluff. Then steer 344 true 
 (NW y% N mag.) for about 2 miles and pass J^ to % m ^ e on the spit 
 northward of Ekuk Bluff. When the cannery at the north end of the 
 spit bears 103 true (E % N mag.), distant about 1 mile, steer 21 
 true (N mag.) for Nushagak Point and anchor J^ mile or a little less 
 off the cannery at Clark Point, in 5 to 6 fathoms (low water). 
 
 Vessels can pass eastward of the outer bar by standing on the range 
 of peak Z in line with the notch in peak E, bearing 346 true (NW % 
 N mag.), until the left summit of a saddle peak (the last toward the 
 left of the distant high mountains) is in range with the north foot of 
 Igushik Ridge, bearing 287 true (W % S mag.), being careful not to 
 overrun. Stand on the latter range 1J^ miles until on the range of 
 peaks X, T, and S of a preceding paragraph. The 346 true (NW % 
 N mag.) course leads about J^ mile westward of a bar which shows 
 about 6 feet at low water, the course being changed when abreast its 
 northern end. By this route vessels can proceed to an anchorage 
 below the upper oars at low water, from which it is not difficult to 
 get in when there is sufficient depth on the bars. 
 
 Clark Point to the upper canneries. From Clark Point the channel 
 crosses the bay, where the least depth is about 12 feet, and then fol- 
 lows the western shore above Coffee Point at a distance of about % 
 mile. Above Coffee Point the channel is narrow in places, with steep 
 slopes and very shoal water on both sides. It should be navigated 
 with great caution by a stranger, and on a rising tide. 
 
 From a position J/2 to % mile off Clark Point steer 319 true 
 (NW by W y<i W mag.), with the water tank in range with a small 
 knoll (apparently a clump of alders) on the ridge astern. Hold the 
 range for % mile after peak C is in range with the highest part of a 
 low bluff 3 miles above Coffee Point, bearing 2 true (N by W % W 
 mag.). Then steer 20 true (N y% W mag.) for Bradford Point for 
 1 14 miles until Coffee Point bears 325 true (NW by W mag.), distant 
 % to 1 mile. Then steer 353 true (NNW J^ W mag.) for l^g miles 
 
NUSHAGAK BAY. 245 
 
 to a position 500 to 600 yards from shore at the first break in the bluff 
 y% mile above Coffee Point. 
 
 For the next 3 miles the channel is about 300 yards wide. The 
 mid-channel is generally J4 m il e from shore a little more at the head 
 of the bight 1J^ miles northward of Coffee Point, and a little less at 
 points y% mile southward and the same distance northward of this 
 bight. The channel is then about 1 mile wide to Bradford Point, and 
 the western shore is clear if given a berth of J4 mile. 
 
 Follow the western shore at Bradford Point at a distance of J4 mi l e 
 until about 3/2 m il e above the courthouse, and then keep y% mile from 
 shore. Anchorage in 4 to 5 fathoms (low water) may be had about J/ 
 mile from the shore at the canneries southwestward of Snag Point. 
 The shoal eastward of the channel above Bradford Point is eastward 
 of a line from the courthouse to the high tank at the cannery above, 
 bearing 41 true (N by E % E mag.). 
 
 Peak C is a sharp peak at the western end of alow detached mountain 
 ridge, and is the first mountain to the left of peak B, which is the most 
 conspicuous toward the head of the bay. In making the turn 2 miles 
 southward of Coffee Point it should be noted that the prolongation 
 southward of the shore from Coffee Point to the bight 1 J^ miles above 
 intersects the range over the water tank on Clark Point at a point 
 near the flat bare at low water that makes out from the western shore. 
 
 CAPE CONSTANTINE TO CAPE NEWENHAM. 
 
 The area between Cape Constantine and Cape Newenham is unsur- 
 veyed, and there are indications that the present charts are consid- 
 erably in error. Vessels laying a course from outside Ustiugof Shoal 
 to pass about 2 miles off Cape Peirce, in thick but otherwise moderate 
 weather, have reported making Hagemeister Island right ahead. 
 This may be due either to a northerly set in this vicinity or to errors 
 in the chart, or, more probably, to a combination of both. In the 
 thick weather which constantly prevails in this locality safety is 
 assured only by constant use of the lead. 
 
 Walrus Islands are three islands and three rocks, all above water, 
 extending 16 miles east and west and about 6 miles north and south. 
 
 Round Island, the easternmost of the group, is nearly 2 miles long, 
 % mile wide, and about 800 feet high, its west end being in latitude 
 58 35' N, longitude 160 01' W. 
 
 Crooked Island is between 4 and 5 miles in length and 2 miles in 
 greatest width. The eastern part is rather low, but toward the west- 
 ern extremity the elevation is nearly equal to that of Hound Island. 
 There is quite a large bay on the northeast side, but it was not 
 examined. 
 
 High Island, the westernmost of the group, is 4 miles in length, 
 about 1 mile in width, and 900 feet or more in height. 
 
 The Twins are two isolated rocks 4 miles southward of Crooked 
 Island, the larger 300 and the smaller 100 feet in height. 
 
 Black Rock, about 150 feet high, lies 1 mile northward of the south- 
 east end of Crooked Island. 
 
 No other outlying dangers were seen in passing between the islands 
 and the mainland. From 6 to 10 fathoms were found abreast the 
 group, the depth gradually decreasing to 3 fathoms off the north end 
 
246 BRISTOL BAY. 
 
 of Hagemeister Island. The course was near the shore, however, 
 and more water would doubtless have been found in mid-channel. 
 
 Hagemeister Island lies 9 miles west of High Island and is 14 miles 
 in length and 8 in width. It is mountainous except for about 5 miles 
 at the north end. Shoals surround the island and extend eastward 
 20 to 25 miles, including the area between Hagemeister and the 
 Walrus Group. 
 
 Hagemeister Strait is about 16 miles in length and lies between the 
 island of that name and the mainland. It is 3 to 4 miles wide, but 
 shingle spits contract it in two places to less than 2 miles. On a 
 passage through the strait made by the Fish Commission steamer 
 Albatross the least water found was 4J^ fathoms. Good anchorage 
 was found under Tongue Point, the shingle spit making out from the 
 mainland about midway of the channel. From the above anchorage 
 the Albatross stood directly to sea, passing within a mile of the south- 
 western extremity of Hagemeister Island; thence 206 true (S % 
 W mag.), shoaling the water to 3 fathoms 7 miles from the island. 
 Greater depths might possibly be found by taking a more westerly 
 course. It is reported that there is anchorage under the spits at 
 both ends of Hagemeister Island. The tidal currents are very strong 
 through the channel. The vessel was visited by a number of Eskimos 
 while at anchor under Tongue Point. 
 
 Cape Peirce is of moderate height and symmetrical form. Depths 
 of 10 fathoms are found 2 miles southward of the cape, and good 
 anchorage in 10 fathoms of water is found inside Shaiak Islet (lying 
 just eastward of the cape). 
 
 There are reports of good anchorage, sheltered from northerly 
 weather, in the bight northwestward of Cape Peirce. 
 
 The same report states that a shoal area makes off westward (true) 
 from the cape, having depths of from 2 to 3 fathoms. The extent of 
 this shoal and the least water to be found on it are unknown. To 
 make the anchorage from eastward, give Cape Peirce a berth of about 
 3 miles, and steer 9 true (N by W mag.) for the junction of the north- 
 west end of the sand beach with the rocky shores, and select anchorage 
 at will off the sand beach. The approaches from westward are clear 
 except for the shoal above mentioned. 
 
 KUSKOKWIM BAY AND RIVER, 
 
 from Cape Newenham to Bethel, are shown on charts 9103 and 9104. 
 
 Cape Newenham is the landfall for this region, and can be approached 
 close- to with deep water. It is the end of a peninsula formed by a 
 series of rough saw-tooth mountains. These mountains terminate 
 in a level plateau which forms the immediate cape. In southerly 
 weather a heavy sea and tide rips occur off Cape Newenham. 
 
 Jagged Mountain is a well-defined peak, the highest of the Cape 
 Newenham group. Viewed from northward its slopes appear jagged. 
 
 Security Cove, 9 miles northeastward of Cape Newenham, is a good 
 anchorage except with northwest winds; the usual summer gales are 
 southeasterly. The bottom is even and shoals gradually. The best 
 anchorage is about % mile northeastward of Castle Rock, on the 
 range of Castle Rock and the first rocky promontory southwestward, 
 in 3J/2 fathoms, mud bottom. Fresh water can be procured from a 
 stream which enters the cove. 
 
KUSKOKWIM BAY. 247 
 
 There is also good anchorage in the middle of the small bight on 
 the southwest side of Castle Rock, in 3J^ fathoms, good holding 
 ground. This anchorage is less affected by the ground swell making 
 along the coast from Cape Newenham than the anchorage in Security 
 Cove. 
 
 Castle Rock, the southwest point of Security Cove, is a small, 
 prominent headland, 299 feet high, joined to the land by a low neck. 
 
 At the northeast point of Security Cove there is a conspicuous 
 pinnacle rock, 169 feet high and covered with light tundra. 
 
 Chagvan Mountain is a smoothly shaped mountain terminating 
 in two rounded knobs about 1,540 feet high, which lies between 
 Security Cove and Chagvan Bay. 
 
 Chagvan Bay has a narrow shoal entrance. Inside it is very shoal 
 and cut up by bars that are bare at low water. 
 
 Red Mountain is a conspicuous reddish-colored mountain just 
 south of Goodnews Bay. From northward it appears as a long 
 ridge with the highest part at its northern end. 
 
 Goodnews Bay is shoal except for the deep channel which leads 
 through the entrance and for a distance of about 1 mile inside. This 
 channel affords good anchorage, the best place for vessels being in the 
 middle of the entrance; small craft can select a berth from the chart 
 that affords the best shelter. The sea from outside is broken by the 
 shoals off the entrance and does not reach the anchorage. With 
 southerly or easterly winds tide rips, dangerous for boats, occur in 
 the channel. The spits at the entrance are of shingle and steep-to. 
 Fresh water may be had from a small stream near Baluka Hill. 
 
 Shoals extend 2J^ miles off the entrance of Goodnews Bay. In 
 1914 the channel with best water led across the shoals from south- 
 ward, and had two bars, with a least depth of about 10 feet, 2^ and 
 3 1/2 miles southward of the entrance. The following directions led 
 through the channel: Bring the inner shore of the north spit just 
 open from the west shore of the south spit, and stand in on this range, 
 course 17 true (N J4 W mag.), until across the bars. Then follow 
 the south spit at a distance of J^ mile, and cross the entrance to a 
 position 300 yards eastward of the north spit. A 56 true (NE % N 
 mag.) course with the south side of the north spit astern will then 
 lead in the channel through the bay for a distance of over 1 mile. 
 
 Mumtrak is a small native village at the head of Goodnews Bay, 
 and can be reached by small craft only, owing to the extensive mud 
 flats. Two small creeks enter the bay, one on each side of the village. 
 There is a Government school and a native trader at Mumtrak. 
 
 Baluka Hill is a prominent conical hill 886 feet high, with a steep, 
 rocky face that rises abruptly from the north side of the bay. Al- 
 though lower than the mountains behind it, Baluka Hill usually 
 stands out prominently from all parts of Kuskokwim Bay. 
 
 It is reported that a cannery is to be established in Goodnews Bay 
 at the foot of Baluka Hill. To reach the vicinity, the following 
 courses are recommended: 
 
 After rounding the north spit at a distance of 300 yards, steer 312 
 true (WNW mag.) for the high bluffs on the west side of the bay. Hold 
 this course for about 2 miles, or until the eastern side of Baluka Hill 
 is in range with the flat-topped mountain just back of Mumtrak vil- 
 lage. Then head up for Baluka Hill and hold the range until up to 
 the anchorage under the mountain. 
 
248 KUSKOKWIM BAY. 
 
 About 6 feet of water will be found here at low tide. In 1913 the 
 surveying steamer Yukon lay at anchor here during a northerly gale. 
 There is no protection in southerly or easterly weather. A fine 
 stream enters the bay here, and there is a good shingle beach. 
 
 It should be noted that this route has not been surveyed, and that 
 there may be, in places, less than 6 feet at low tide. It should there- 
 fore be used with caution, with the lead going constantly, and only 
 on a rising tide. 
 
 Carter Spit is a low sand spit about 4^ miles long and from 50 to 
 300 yards wide. A white painted beacon, 35 feet high, stands on the 
 spit 1 mile south of the elbow. Carter Spit incloses Carter Bay, 
 which is a wide area of shoals and mud flats. Around the end of the 
 sand spit there is a narrow channel scoured out, affording an anchor- 
 age for launches and small craft. There is no protection from north- 
 ward. A small stream, known as Indian Creek, flows into the east 
 side of Carter Bay near two abandoned cabins, formerly called Carter. 
 Fresh water can be obtained by boats from Indian Creek at high 
 water. 
 
 Explorer Mountain is the highest peak northward of Goodnews 
 Bay. From southward it appears as a long ridge, and is recognized 
 by three deep gulleys on its side. From westward it appears as a 
 pyramid peak, the highest of the group. 
 
 Tooth Mountain is a flat-topped mountain in the front range, and 
 has a sharp, rocky pinnacle on the northern edge of its summit. It is 
 easily recognized from the vicinity of Carter Spit. 
 
 Figure IV Mountain is a sharp peak in the front range eastward of 
 Jacksmith Bay. The deep ravines on the side of this mountain form 
 a perfect IV, which is conspicuous from westward when the ravines 
 are filled with snow. In the latter part of the summer the snow dis- 
 appears from the ravines. 
 
 Cone Mountain is a large conical mountain in the first range. 
 
 Yukon Hill is low, but is the north end of the front range parallel- 
 ing the coast, and is visible from the entrance of Eek Channel. From 
 westward it is not distinguishable, as it has the receding range as a 
 background. 
 
 Thumb Mountain is a fairly sharp summit in the range which recedes 
 from Jacksmith Bay. From on Quinhagak it resembles a huge 
 thumb placed on a high flat mountain plateau. As Eek Island is ap- 
 proached the mountain appears as a ridge and is not so distinctive. 
 
 Jacksmith Bay is the large indentation 14 miles northward of 
 Carter. It is entirely bare at low tide. 
 
 Quinhagak P. 0. is almost inaccessible by water because of the 
 great mud flats bordering its shores. Launches can enter the creek 
 here only at the highest tides, and even small craft can hardly get 
 within sight of the village and remain afloat at low water. Supplies 
 are landed with great difficulty, owing to the extensive flats and their 
 exposure. There is a Moravian mission, a store, and a Government 
 school, and a limited amount of supplies may be procured. The 
 church steeple is sometimes visible from Eek Channel. The Kanektok 
 River here runs fine clear mountain water at all stages of the tide. 
 
 Warehouse Bluff is a long dark-colored bluff about 12 miles north- 
 westward of Quinhagak. This is an important landmark, as it is the 
 first land on the east bank to be sighted when ascending Eek Channel. 
 No objects on the west shore are visible until approaching the head 
 
KUSKOKWIM BAY. 249 
 
 of Eek Channel. A square tower beacon 25 feet high has been erected 
 on the highest part of the bluffs. 
 
 Warehouse Creek is a deep creek about 2 miles above Warehouse 
 Bluff. It is approached through a long tortuous channel through 
 the mud flats that can be followed by small craft when the flats are 
 bare. Small craft may find shelter here. The greatest range of 
 tide in the bay occurs in the vicinity of Warehouse Creek. Inside the 
 creek there is just swinging room for a 75-foot vessel riding to 15 
 fathoms of chain. 
 
 Kuskokwak Creek flows into the east side of the river about 4 miles 
 southward of Beacon Point. It is approached through a short 
 channel across the flats and affords a good shelter for launches and 
 other small craft. There is a depth of 4 fathoms just inside the mouth 
 of this creek. 
 
 Beacon Point is generally considered the mouth of the river. Two 
 range beacons are built on this point. The rear one is a 30-foot 
 square tower and the front one is. a low tripod. They mark the cross- 
 over from Eek Channel. 
 
 Popokamute is a large native summer village on the west bank at 
 the mouth of the river just across from Beacon Point. 
 
 Eek Island is a grass-covered mud flat cut up by deep sloughs, and 
 is covered by the higher tides. Eek Island affords a feeding ground 
 for many thousands of ducks and geese. 
 
 West Point is the local name given the fishing camp on the west 
 bank of the river just above Eek Island. The native pilot "Capt. 
 John" lives near here, and "Moses " is often found at the fishing camp. 
 
 Eek River is a large tributary flowing into the Kuskokwim on its 
 eastern side just above Eek Island. It is navigable by launches for 
 15 or 20 miles. The river rises in the mountains about 60 miles dis- 
 tant, but its waters are muddy and full of silt. 
 
 There are a number of small native villages on the river between 
 West Point and Bethel. 
 
 Bethel is considered the head of ocean navigation. There is a 
 Moravian mission, a sawmill, and two or three stores located here. 
 Here the Kuskokwim Commercial Co. has a large warehouse with 
 rock-filled cribs to which vessels can moor and discharge. The range 
 of tide here is only about 3 feet, but the stage of the river has con- 
 siderable influence on the depths. During the summer a river 
 steamer is operated from Bethel to McGrath, a distance of about 550 
 statute miles. 
 
 Mail facilities. The mail for the lower Kuskokwim comes monthly 
 by the way of the Yukon and Holy Cross Mission. It is transported 
 over the portage to the Kuskokwim and carried down that river in 
 small boats as far as Quinhagak. Power schooners from Seattle also 
 carry mail when practicable. 
 
 Pilots. There are two native pilots who know the river above 
 Eek Island. They are known locally as "Moses" and "Capt. John/' 
 "Capt. John" lives on the west side of the river just above Eek 
 Island, and "Moses" is usually found at his house on the east bank 
 near the wrecked schooner Volante, abreast the upper end of Eek 
 Island. On the appearance of a vessel, one of these natives usually 
 puts off to engage himself as pilot. There is no established fee. 
 
 Currents. The currents of Kuskokwim Bay and River are strong. 
 A strong tidal current sweeps past Cape Newenham, setting approxi- 
 
250 KUSKOKWIM BAY. 
 
 mately north and south true, and another follows the shore along 
 the north side of the cape. In general the currents set in directions 
 parallel to the axis of the channels between the shoals. In the deep 
 channels off Jacksmith Bay the flood current has a velocity usually 
 of about 2 to 2J/ knots at strength, and the ebb from 2J^ to 3 knots. 
 In the vicinity of Eek Island, the strongest ebb current observed 
 was 3^> knots. Here the current turns from one to one and one-half 
 hours after high and low waters. The flood current is felt only about 
 as far as Bethel. 
 
 Ice. The river is usually open for navigation about June 1, 
 although ice conditions are uncertain and vary much from year to 
 year. In the f all ice makes on the upper river in October, and heavy 
 ice forms off Goodnews Bay in November. Goodnews Bay freezes 
 over entirely in the winter. 
 
 Weather. All reports agree that the best weather usually occurs 
 in March and April of the early spring. During the summer south- 
 east to southwest gales are frequent, lasting from two to five days. 
 These storms gradually blow themselves out, and are generally 
 followed by a few days of good weather. In the early fall northerly 
 winds are frequent, and are usually accompanied by a clear . sky. 
 After the middle of September strong gales become frequent and 
 
 Fresh water can be obtained from small streams in Security Cove, 
 in Goodnews Bay near Baluka Hill, and from Indian Creek in Carter 
 Bay. In the vicinity of Eek Island the river water is fresh at all 
 stages of the tide. It is very muddy, but settles readily. 
 
 Tides. In Kuskokwim Bay and River there are usually two 
 unequal high waters and, to a much less extent, two unequal low 
 waters during the lunar day, the inequality varying principally with 
 the declination of the moon. About two days after the moon is on 
 the equator the tides are generally nearly equal and have the least 
 diurnal range. About two days after the moon reaches its greatest 
 dech' nation (farthest N or S) the tides are very unequal, and usually 
 have the greatest range of the month; these are called ''great tropic 
 tides." 
 
 On account of the difficulty of determining accurately the tidal 
 elements in this region, a special table of predicted times and heights 
 of high and low waters for 1916 at Apokak is issued; but beginning 
 with 1917 this information will be given in the General Tide Tables 
 and Pacific coast reprint. 
 
 CURRENTS, KUSKOKWIM BAY AND RIVER. 
 
 Goodnews Bay. The currents are strongest at the entrance, the 
 maximum observed being an ebb current of 2.5 knots. During 
 large tides, the ebb tide overran the flood by as much as 2y 2 hours. 
 The strength of the current follows the channel toward Baluka Hill, 
 causing a strong eddy to sweep around the northeast shore of the 
 south spit. Here the current nearly always runs ebb and sweeps 
 with great force during the runout. Tide rips were observed in and 
 off the entrance, but they are dangerous for small boats only. 
 
 NOTE. The time differences given in the following list are such 
 that, when applied to the times of high and low waters as given in 
 
KUSKOKWIM BAY. 251 
 
 the Tide Tables for Astoria, Oreg., the current will be given in one 
 hundred and sixty-fifth meridian time. 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River. The currents are swift and follow in 
 general the direction of the channel. The strength of current and 
 the time of slack water varies and may at times diner from the values 
 given in the following list due to freshets and prevailing winds. 
 Occasionally a current of 5 knots is experienced. 
 
 In the Channel, off the entrance to Goodnews Bay. The mean 
 velocity of the current is 2.5 knots at strength of ebb and flood, set- 
 ting in a southwest and northeast true direction, slack water before 
 the flood occurring I hour 10 minutes after the time of high water at 
 Astoria, Oreg., and slack water before the ebb 1 hour after the time 
 of low water at Astoria, Oreg. 
 
 In the Channel west of Carter Bay. The mean velocity of the cur- 
 rent is 2.3 knots at strength of ebb and flood, slack water before the 
 flood occurring 2 hours 15 minutes after the time of high water at 
 Astoria, Oreg., and slack water v before the ebb, 2 hours after the time 
 of low water at Astoria, Oreg. 
 
 In the Channel, southwest of Warehouse Bluff. The mean velocity 
 of the current at strength of ebb and flood is 3.3 knots, slack water 
 before the flood occurring 2 hours 45 minutes after the time of high 
 water at Astoria, Oreg., and slack water before the ebb 2 hours 45 
 minutes after the time of low water at Astoria, Oreg. 
 
 In the Channel off Apokak. The mean velocity of the current at 
 strength of ebb and flood is 3.4 knots, slack water before the flood 
 occurring 3 hours before the time of low water at Astoria, Oreg., and 
 slack before the ebb 2 hours before the time of high water at Astoria, 
 Oreg. The strength of the flood current occurs 20 minutes after the 
 time of low water at Astoria, Oreg., and the strength of the ebb cur- 
 rent 1 hour after the time of high water at Astoria, Oreg. 
 
 About 15 feet is the deepest draft that should attempt to reach 
 Bethel, although a vessel drawing 16 3/2 feet and traveling only at or 
 near low water has ascended the river to that point. 
 
 The navigation of Kuskokwim River and its approaches is difficult. 
 In the bay the shoals are generally hard and steep-to. In a southerly 
 storm a heavy sea makes up the bay nearly to Eek Island, and vessels 
 caught on a shoal are in danger of being pounded to pieces. 
 
 The lead is the navigator's best aid, and it should be kept going 
 constantly on both sides of the vessel. No definite rules can be 
 given for following the channels by the surface indications of the 
 water. At certain times the channels will be smooth with rips on 
 the shoals; but again for no apparent reason the indications may be 
 reversed, with rips in the channel and a slick on the shoals. The edge 
 of a channel is often marked by a long line of foam, although cases 
 have been known where the line of foam extended across the channel. 
 It is always well to approach such a line with caution. 
 
 Mariners are strongly cautioned against attempting to follow the 
 channels in the bay at high water. Owing to the inequality of the 
 tides, a vessel grounding at high water may not float again for several 
 days. By waiting for low water the mud flats become natural aids 
 instead ot dangers. 
 
252 KUSKOKWIM BAY. 
 
 Passing about 2 miles westward of Cape Newenham, make good a 
 28 true (N % E mag.) course for about 6 miles until the cape bears 
 190 true (S % E mag.) ; then make good a 10 true (N J/ 8 W mag.) 
 course with Cape Newenham directly astern for about 18 miles until 
 Baluka Hill bears 65 true (NE mag.) and Red Mountain 121 true 
 (E by S mag.). From this position make good a 341 true (NW }4 N 
 mag.) course for about 13 miles to a position 4 miles 256 true (SW by 
 W mag.) of the elbow of Carter Spit, and 4^ miles 270 true (WSW 
 } W mag.) from the beacon on the spit. 
 
 In thick or hazy weather a route nearer the coast may be taken as 
 follows: Pass }/<% mile off Cape Newenham and Seal Rock, and then 
 make good a 70 true (NE J^ E mag.) course for about 6J^ miles until 
 Castle Rock, the southwest headland of Security Cove, bears 177 
 true (SSE mag.). Strong tidal currents occur along the north shore 
 of Cape Newenham. From this position make good a 357 true 
 (NNW mag.) course with Castle Rock astern for 14 miles until the 
 summit of Red Mountain is abeam; then make good a 341 true 
 (NW y% N mag.) course for 19^ miles to a position 4 miles 256 true 
 (SW by W mag.) of the elbow of Carter Spit. 
 
 From a position 4 miles 256 true (SW by W mag.) of the elbow of 
 Carter Spit make good a 302 true (W by N mag.) course for 5^ miles 
 with Baluka Hill in range with Pyramid Mountain astern. This range 
 should be held until the water begins to deepen after crossing the 
 8-fathom ridge shown on the chart. Then head up the channel on a 
 6 true (N by W J W mag.) course. 
 
 Vessels should arrange to make this point at the last of the ebb 
 tide, and go up the channel with the flood tide. After heading on 
 the 6 time (N by W J4 W mag.) course, the long shoal on the east 
 side of the channel should be made out, either heaping or breaking. 
 It is only with a very smooth sea that this shoal is not in evidence at 
 low water. After continuing on this course for about 10 miles the 
 long shoal on the west side of the channel should be made out, either 
 heaping or breaking. This shoal should be followed at a distance of 
 about 1 mile until its northern extremity is reached. Here it becomes 
 a flat, bare at about half tide. It is of a yellowish color and has deep 
 water close-to. This flat is the leading mark for entering Eek 
 Channel, and therefore it should always be made at low water. 
 
 From here for about 15 miles the channel must be followed by the 
 chart and the lead. The leads should be kept going on both sides of 
 the vessel, as the slope at the sides of the channel is sufficient to make 
 the difference in depth, obtained with the two leads, a warning of 
 the approach to the flats. Near the edges of the channel the water 
 usually shoals abruptly. In clear weather the white church steeple 
 and buildings at Quinhagak may sometimes be seen from this channel. 
 
 Having arrived at a point in the channel from which Quinhagak 
 bears about 99 true (E by N mag.), a black mud flat which is well 
 bare at half tide should be made out ahead if the tide is not too high, 
 and at the same time Warehouse Bluff should be picked up bearing 
 about 37 true (N by E K E mag.). 
 
 Pass about J^ mile westward of this mud flat, and then follow the 
 flats as indicated on the chart. This part of the channel is not diffi- 
 cult to follow at low water, but it is almost impossible to navigate 
 it at high water when the flats are covered. 
 

 KUSKOKWIM RIVER. 253 
 
 From the head of Eek Channel there are two channels that are used. 
 For large vessels drawing 10 feet or more the channel westward of 
 Eek Island should be used. The channel eastward of Eek Island is 
 feasible for small boats only, owing to its narrow width and shoal 
 places. 
 
 In case of vessels grounding on a falling tide, masters are warned 
 against using their engines too long, as the silty bottom is apt to be 
 sluiced out from under the stern of the vessel, with serious results 
 when the tide falls completely. 
 
 To pass on the east side of Eek Island, favor the east side of the 
 channel until on the Beacon Point range. This range has a 30-foot 
 square tower for the rear mark, and a smaller tripod beacon for the 
 front mark. Follow this range, which leads in a least depth of about 
 12 feet at low water, and enter the deej) channel which follows the 
 east shore of the river above Beacon Point. Follow the shore at a 
 distance of about % mile, until off the slough which lies about 1 mile 
 north of Apokak village. From this point head about 304 true 
 (WNW Y W mag.) and enter the channel which extends along the 
 north side of Eek Island. This crossover has a least depth of about 
 7 feet, and is a difficult one to make. A power boat should be sent 
 ahead to sound, as the channel is narrow and is apt to shift from 
 year to year. If possible, a native pilot should be employed before 
 attempting the crossover from Apokak. 
 
 The channel along the north side of Eek Island is easily followed 
 until its west end is approached, as the deepest water is close to the 
 shore. From a point about 100 yards off the northwest point of Eek 
 Island, head for the large beacon at West Point on a 299 true (W % 
 N mag.) course. This leads over a shoal with a least depth of 5 feet 
 at mean lower low water. 
 
 To pass on the west side of Eek Island, follow a mid-channel course 
 up Eek Channel until on the Popokamute range, which consists of a 
 30-foot square tower for the front mark, and two smaller tripods for 
 rear marks. When on this range the tower should appear midway 
 between the two rear marks. If the proper course is followed up 
 Eek Channel, the Popokamute range and the Beacon Point range 
 should come on at the same time. 
 
 Head across on the Popokamute range 284 true (W % S mag.) 
 for \y% miles, or until the soundings show about 8 feet more water 
 than was obtained at the shoalest place on the crossover. Then 
 steer 180 true (S by E y E mag.) for about 1^ miles, when the 
 Beacon Point range should be on. Head across on this range 232 
 true (SSW % Wmag.) and continue for about % mile, when the deep 
 water of the West Channel should be reached. This range clears 
 the long shoal that makes down the middle of the West Channel. 
 
 From this point steer a 332 true (NW % W mag.) course, which 
 should lead about J4 m ile off the tower beacon at Popokamute. 
 
 From Popokamute the west bank of the river should be followed 
 closely for about 5 miles, then the course bears out into the river, 
 passing midway between the west bank of the river and Eek Island. 
 
 From off Eek Island there are two channels which may be used in 
 ascending the river. One of these channels follows the east bank 
 and the other the west bank. Local knowledge, however, is neces- 
 sary in following them. About 15 miles above Eek Island they unite, 
 
254 BERING SEA. 
 
 and from this point the channel crosses many times from one side of 
 the river to the other, and there are no prominent features which can 
 be used as leading marks. One of the two pilots living in the vicinity 
 of Eek Island should, therefore, be employed. Of the two channels 
 above Eek Island, these pilots appear to know the western one better, 
 and for that reason it is recommended. 
 
 PRIBILOF ISLANDS. 
 
 This group consists of St. Paul, St. George, Otter, and Walrus 
 Islands. The two latter are small and uninhabited. St. Paul and St. 
 George are important as containing the largest and most numerous 
 seal rookeries of the world. These two islands are each in charge of 
 a United States Government agent. Excepting vessels of the United 
 States Government, all vessels are forbidden landing on these islands. 
 United States naval radio stations are maintained on both St. Paul 
 and St. George Islands. There are no harbors about the islands, and 
 the anchorages are only available with the wind off the land. Be- 
 cause of the uncertain and shifting nature of the wind in this locality, 
 vessels should always anchor with a view of getting underway quickly 
 if necessary. 
 
 Fogs are especially thick and prevalent in this vicinity in the sum- 
 mer, and navigation is attended with difficulty and danger. 
 
 These islands are at about the southern limit of the ice in Bering 
 Sea. Detached fields of ice will generally be found in their vicinity 
 from February to May. 
 
 ST. GEORGE ISLAND 
 
 consists mainly of high volcanic hills and ridges, and its entire coast 
 is a precipitous cliff except for a few miles on the north side and short 
 intervals at Garden Cove and Zapadni Bay. The east and west 
 extremities of the island, Tolstoi and Dalnoi Points, are bold prom- 
 ontories. 
 
 High Bluff, on the north side of the island, 1,012 feet high, is a 
 prominent landmark, and is visible from St. Paul Island, a distance 
 of nearly 40 miles, on a clear day. There are no harbors, but vessels 
 anchor at North Anchorage, Garden Cove, and Zapadni Bay, accord- 
 ing to the direction of the wind; the anchorages are poor except with 
 the wind directly off the land. At a distance generally not greater 
 than 2 miles from the island the depth of the water is but little less 
 than the surrounding sea, and in thick weather it is not safe to depend 
 upon soundings for picking up the land unless sure of the position. 
 Vessels should not approach the island in less than 12 fathoms of 
 water. There are no outlying dangers except the small reefs at 
 Zapadni Bay and at North Anchorage. It is reported that vessels 
 have found breakers, in very heavy weather, about 9 miles east of 
 Tolstoi Point. 
 
 The anchorage in Zapadni Bay, on the southwest side of the island, 
 in 10 fathoms of water, affords shelter with winds from east-northeast 
 to north-northwest. The landing is on the open sand beach, and 
 can usually be made with northerly winds. A reef extends about J^ 
 mile offshore southward of the anchorage. 
 
 With northerly winds, a landing may sometimes be made at Garden 
 Cove, on the sand beach. The anchorage affords good shelter from 
 
PRIBILOF ISLANDS. 255 
 
 northwesterly winds, but with the exception of a small area the 
 bottom is rocky. 
 
 At North Anchorage there are two houses on the beach, with a road 
 back of them leading up the hill to the village. In approaching, 
 get these two houses open and steer for them. Anchor in not less 
 than 10 fathoms. A flag is shown from the flagstaff when landing is 
 possible. The landing westward of the houses is a cutting in the 
 rocks for small boats to enter at high or medium tides. It is some- 
 what protected by a ledge of rocks north of it, and by kelp, which 
 tends to reduce the breakers. At East Landing, just northeast of 
 the village, is a similar boat landing, but better protected from a 
 westerly swell. A ledge of rocks awash lies a short distance off this 
 landing. If desired, a boat will come out to vessels at anchor when 
 landing is practicable. 
 
 Tidal currents. The current sets eastward during the rising tide 
 and westward during the falling tide, with a maximum velocity of 
 2J/2 miles. With opposing wind and current, tide rips occur off 
 Tolstoi and Dalnoi Points. These rips are not heavy enough to be of 
 any moment, except that to strangers they may appear to be breakers. 
 The water off both points is deep, and they can be passed close-to 
 with safety. 
 
 OTTER ISLAND 
 
 has an abrupt bluff at its southwest end, 288 feet high, slopes gradually 
 to the north and rises again in a crater, 150 feet high, at its extreme 
 east end. Foul ground, marked by kelp, extends about % mile from 
 the island on its south, southwest, and north sides. The north side, 
 from Crater Point to Northwest Reef, is clear of dangers. Prob- 
 ably the best anchorage near the island is in 9J/2 fathoms, black sand 
 and broken shells, with the northeast extremity of Crater Point bear- 
 ing 185 true (S by E mag.), distant % mile. This island must be 
 approached with great caution in thick weather, and at all times keep 
 out of kelp. Between Otter Island and Reef Point, St. Paul Island, 
 the tidal currents are strong, and with heavy winds dangerous tide 
 rips occur, especially on the ebb. 
 
 WALRUS ISLAND 
 
 is low, about 39 feet above the water, level on top, and composed 
 of irregular masses of volcanic rock. It is about y% mile long and y% 
 mile wide. Anchorage can be had on either side of it, J^ to ^ mile 
 offshore, in 10 to 15 fathoms. Landing can be made with smooth 
 water, the best place for this purpose being in a small cove at the 
 southwest corner. The island is a bad place to make in a fog. 
 
 Parts of Otter and Walrus Islands are covered with sea birds in the 
 breeding season, and at the proper time a plentiful supply of eggs may 
 be obtained. 
 
 ST. PAUL ISLAND. 
 
 The west and southwest parts of St. Paul Island are high and 
 mountainous, with precipitous cliffs at the coast. The rest of the 
 island is a comparatively low, rolling plateau, with a number of 
 extinct volcanic peaks scattered over its surface. Bogoslof, 590 feet 
 high, a conical crater near the center of the island, and Polovina, a 
 
256 PEIBILOF ISLANDS. 
 
 double-peaked hill, 470 feet hiojh, near its east end, are conspicuous, 
 and are the best landmarks in clear weather when coming from south- 
 ward. From this hill the island stretches away in a low, narrow neck 
 to Hutchinson Hill, 100 feet high, on Northeast Point. West of 
 Lukanin Bay the coast of the south side of the island is rocky, with 
 bluffs at the points. The shore of the rest of the island is generally a 
 sand beach, with rocks in the vicinity of the seal rookeries. 
 
 Dangers. Kelp-marked reefs extend about ^ m jl e southeastward 
 from the two low points lying % mile and lJ/ miles southward of 
 Northeast Point. A dangerous ledge, marked by kelp, lies 1 mile 
 355 true (N by W Jg W mag.) from Hutchinson Hill. It is about 
 % mile in diameter, and its least depth is found on two rocks with 3 
 fathoms over them. With a moderate swell the sea breaks over these 
 rocks and for a short distance off Northeast Point. Depths of 8 to 
 10 fathoms can be carried between the ledge and Hutchinson Hill by 
 keeping the shore aboard distant % to % mile. 
 
 The north coast from west of Hutchinson Hill to Southwest Point 
 is free of dangers, no reefs or rocks until within % mile of the land, 
 except off North Hill; but the bottom is uneven and rocky and the 
 anchorage not generally good. 
 
 A rocky patch, with 7 fathoms water on it and 9 to 13 fathoms 
 around, lies with Hutchinson Hill bearing 80 true (NE by E % E 
 mag.), distant 3^ miles. There may be less water on the shoal, as 
 the locality was not fully examined. 
 
 Off North Hill a shoal extends about % mile northward, the depths 
 gradually increasing to 4 and 6J/2 fathoms at 1 mile from the coast. 
 
 A spot with 5 fathoms over it is reported 8 miles 272 true (WSW 
 24 W mag.) from the west end of St. Paul Island. Kelp has been 
 noticed in this vicinity. 
 
 Breakers extend y^ mile or more off Southwest Point. 
 
 A dangerous ledge, usually marked by breakers, extends ^ mile 
 southwestward and southward from Reef Point, the south point of 
 the island. 
 
 A reef extends about % mile off Tonki Point, the northeastern point 
 of Lukanin Bay. 
 
 The following beacons have been established on St. Paul Island: 
 (1) On the southwest side of Zapadni Point, 70 feet high; (2) on 
 North Point, 35 feet high; (3) on Sealion Point, 28 feet high; and 
 (4) on Halfway Point, 29 feet high. 
 
 Anchorage. The usual anchorage at this island is off the west side 
 of Reef Point, and there is also an anchorage on the east side, off 
 Black Bluffs. From the anchorage on the west side the village is 
 hidden, but there is a flagstaff on the top of the hill overlooking the 
 bay; from the Black Bluffs anchorage the village is in full view, and 
 there is another flagstaff, the lower of the two, on this side. If a 
 vessel is seen approaching, the United States ensign is hoisted on 
 the flagstaff on the side on which she ought to anchor, and the ensign 
 is kept flying if landing is safe, but hauled down if it is not safe. 
 
 Vessels should not attempt to ride out a gale at anchor near the 
 islands, unless to leeward and well sheltered. The surf is apt to make 
 quickly and is dangerous on the weather side of the island. 
 
 landing. In Village Cove, the landing place on the west side of 
 Reef Point, the landing is just northward of the bluff point where the 
 flag is hoisted; a bar extends across the entrance, on which the sea 
 
PRIBILOF ISLANDS. 257 
 
 breaks unexpectedly, and is often dangerous. Boats going in, after 
 passing north of the point, must keep close in to the small point just 
 outside the wharf. At low water boats can not land at the wharf. 
 
 The landing on the east side is a small cutting in the rocks, close to 
 a salt house ; with westerly winds and high water, landing here is easy. 
 
 A landing can sometimes be made at the head of the cove on the 
 south side of Lukanin Bay, when impracticable at Black Bluffs or 
 Village Cove. 
 
 Village. The village is a number of small, wooden houses, painted 
 white, with dark roofs, a church, also several large buildings for the 
 Government agent. There are about 250 inhabitants. A naval 
 radio station is located on the island. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall at St. Paul Island is 2.1 feet. 
 Around St. Paul Island the flood tidal currents sets eastward and 
 the ebb westward, following the trend of the shore. The greatest 
 velocity occurs at Northeast Point and between Reef Point and Otter 
 Island, and is 1 to 2 miles, but with continued strong winds from one 
 direction it may be increased to 3 miles. There are heavy rips 
 around Northeast and Southwest Points, also between Reef Point and 
 Otter Island, where they are worst on the ebb. The tides and tidal 
 currents are greatly influenced by the winds. 
 
 NUNIVAK ISLAND 
 
 is rarely approached by vessels. For a distance of 10 miles about the 
 island, especially on its east and north sides, the bottom is reported 
 very uneven, consisting of ridges with deeper water between. The 
 island should therefore be approached with caution. From westward 
 it presents gentle slopes, terminating seaward in reddish cliffs 150 to 
 462 feet high. The highest point of the western part of the island is 
 830 feet, which is found 10 miles eastward from Cape Mohican. Near 
 the center there are some mountains of moderate height that rise with 
 a gentle slope. Except some hills, the eastern end of the island is low. 
 In clear weather the island can generally be made out at a distance of 
 30 miles from any direction. 
 
 In 1899 the U. S. S. Corwin cruised completely around Nunivak 
 Island, following the shore and outlying islands at a distance of about 
 2 miles, and found general depths of 7 to 10 fathoms. The coast is 
 generally abrupt and rocky, with numerous bights in which anchorage 
 was found with 3J/2 to 7 fathoms of water. 
 
 Cape Mohican, the western point of the island, is in latitude 60 12' 
 45" N, longitude 167 27' W, as determined by the Coast and Geodetic 
 Survey in 1902, and is a narrow promontory about 2 miles long. The 
 point of the cape is. a cliff 266 feet high, from which it falls eastward 
 to a height of 150 feet in a distance of 2 miles, and then rises by a 
 gentle slope to the higher land of the island. 
 
 A dangerous ledge extends off Cape Mohican, probably 1 mile, 
 though the distance is uncertain. Between 1 and 14J^ miles west- 
 ward of the cape the soundings show a somewhat irregular bottom 
 with depths of 13 to over 23 fathoms. A shoal with 4J^ fathoms over 
 it is reported about 14 miles 271 true (WSW y% W mag.) from Cape 
 Mohican. It is reported that a reef exists 1J^ miles north of Cape 
 Mohican, and extends eastward about 3 miles; this reef was observed 
 to be breaking along its entire length with a smooth sea. v A shoal 
 
 31056 16 17 
 
258 NUNIVAK ISLAND. 
 
 with 3 fathoms and less is reported 5 miles 349 true (NNW J^ W 
 mag.) from Cape Mohican. 
 
 A shoal with 9 feet over it is shown on the charts about 12 miles 
 46 true (NNE % E mag.) from Cape Mohican. A line of soundings 
 with 12 to 13 fathoms was run by the Manning about 2 miles inside 
 (southward) of this position, and another by the Patterson with 14 
 to 16 fathoms 1% miles westward of it. 
 
 From Cape Mohican the southwest coast extends with a slight curve 
 in a southeasterly direction for 9J/2 miles to what may be called the 
 southwest cape of the island. This stretch of coast is impassable cliffs 
 150 to 462 feet high, and there is no boat landing. The 6-fathom curve 
 is about 1)4 miles offshore, and there are no known outlying dangers. 
 An observation of the tidal current gave a maximum velocity of 1.2 
 miles on both flood and ebb; the flood sets northwestward and ebb 
 southeastward alongshore. 
 
 The southwest cape of the island is cliffs 100 to 150 feet high, the 
 summit of which is gentle slopes of tundra. The coast here changes 
 direction gradually eastward for 2 miles to a small cove, which is the 
 first boat landing southeastward of Cape Mohican. The best landing 
 place is on the sandy beach in front of a small native village. Fresh 
 water can be obtained from the stream just east of the village, which, 
 at low water, is fresh to its outlet. A temporary anchorage may be 
 made about % mile off the entrance to the cove, in 7 to 8 fathoms. 
 
 From the southwest cape of the island the coast has a general 122 
 true (ESE % E mag.) direction for about 21J^ miles, and then 
 changes direction to about 108 true (E mag.) to Cape Mendenhall, 
 the southern point of the island. In the first 22 miles from the south- 
 west cape, the few soundings taken show deep water fairly close to 
 the shore, and following the coast at a distance of 2 miles is appar- 
 ently safe. But at a distance of 5 miles or more offshore there is an 
 extensive bank on which soundings of 4% to 6 fathoms have been 
 made. The bank is included approximately between latitude 59 
 46' and 59 53' N, and longitude 166 50' and 167 20' W. 
 
 Cape Mendenhall, the southern point, is about 200 feet high, with 
 a steep bluff on its east side, which extends halfway to the bottom of 
 the bight between this cape and Cape Corwin. Breakers are said to 
 exist 6 or 7 miles from Cape Mendenhall. In 1900 the Manning 
 rounded the cape at a distance of about 5J^ miles in depths of 13 to 
 14 fathoms. 
 
 Cape Corwin, the eastern point, is low, with a rocky shore north of 
 it; the cape is definitely marked by the twin peaks of a mountain, 
 which can be seen 25 miles in clear weather. The Manning passed 
 about 2 miles eastward of the cape in depths of 10 to 11 fathoms. 
 
 The three following anchorages are from an oral description by 
 Capt. J. L. Fisher, who anchored with a stern- wheel steamboat in 
 each of them in July, 1898: 
 
 The first is in the bight between Cape Mendenhall and Cape Corwin, 
 close inshore, in 3 fathoms, with sand and gravel bottom. Fresh 
 water can be obtained at this anchorage. 
 
 The second is in the cove on the north side of Cape Corwin; it is 
 very rocky and a poor anchorage. Fresh water can be obtained here; 
 it is discolored and of poor quality. 
 
 The third is on the north side of, and about 12 miles eastward of, 
 the north end of the island. It is in a cove open eastward, but deep 
 
NUNIVAK ISLAND. 259 
 
 enough to afford shelter from northerly and southerly winds. Capt. 
 Fisher considers this the best anchorage on the east side of the 
 island. Fresh water can be obtained at this place. In 1900 the 
 Manning cruised in this locality and reports that the anchorage on 
 the north side of Cape Manning has not the appearance of a good 
 harbor at low water, and that the rise and fall of tides is 12 feet. 
 
 From Cape Etolin the shore trends in a general 120 true (E by S 
 mag.) direction about 20 miles to a point called Cape Manning, and 
 from the latter cape to Cape Corwin the direction is 176 true (SSE 
 mag.) and the distance about 16 miles. An island called Triangle 
 Island lies about 6 miles westward from Cape Manning, and about 3 
 miles from the shore of Nunivak Island, with reported foul ground 
 between. The Manning passed about 1 mile northward of the island 
 in depths of 7 to 9 fathoms. 
 
 Cape Etolin, the northern point, is a narrow strip of land about % 
 mile long. There is a ridge of low hills about midway of this outer 
 strip. A small island lies about 2 miles off the end of the cape, with 
 ledges between it and the point of the cape. .A dangerous rocky 
 spit makes westward for probably more than 1J/^ miles from Cape 
 Etolin. 
 
 On the southeast side of Cape Etolin there is an anchorage in 
 Etolin Bay, which is a bight open northeast. This bay averages 
 about Yi mile wide and nearly % mile long. Near the southerly 
 side and about J^ mile from the head of the bight an anchorage in 18 
 feet can be found; farther out it is deeper but more exposed to the 
 effects of the strong tidal currents and rips of Etolin Strait. The 
 holding ground is gravel and only moderately good. There is a 
 small native winter village at the northwest corner of the bay. 
 
 In 1900 the Manning made a reconnaissance of Nunivak Island, 
 and found a shoal (3 fathoms) about 10 miles 355 true (NNW mag.) 
 from Cape Etolin, with deep water between. Keeping Cape Van- 
 couver bearing northward of 86 true (ENE mag.), Cape Etolin can 
 be rounded, when coming from westward, in 10 fathoms of water. 
 With Cape Vancouver bearing 86 true (ENE mag.) or eastward. of 
 this bearing, considerable shoal water and irregular depths are found. 
 
 Nash Harbor, on the north side of the island, nearly halfway 
 between Cape Etolin and Cape Mohican, is a good harbor except with 
 winds from northwest through north to northeast. On the western 
 point at the entrance are a number of Indian graves, and at the head 
 of the harbor is a frame house, which can readily be distinguished at a 
 distance of 3 miles. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall at Nunivak Island is 3 feet. There 
 is nearly two hours difference in the time of tide on the north and 
 south sides of the island. 
 
 It is stated that the tidal currents in Etolin Strait are so strong that 
 the middle portion does not freeze over in winter. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW AND ADJOINING ISLANDS. 
 
 These are rocky, uninhabited islands, whose shores are little known 
 and are poorly charted. During the season of navigation fogs are 
 very prevalent in their vicinity and vessels should keep away from 
 them. From what is known of them, anchorage may be made with 
 
260 BERING SEA. 
 
 an offshore wind on nearly all sides, though the shore should be ap- 
 proached with great caution. 
 
 Pinnacle Island is a remarkable narrow rock, about 1 mile long, 200 
 yards wide, and 900 feet high, which rises so abruptly from the water 
 that there is scarcely a place for a boat to land. There are numerous 
 small rocks near the island, and it should be avoided. Lieut. S. P. 
 Edmonds, R. C. S., reports that from observation and bearings on 
 Cape Upright and Sugarloaf Peak, Pinnacle Island is about 2 miles 
 westward of the position shown on the chart. 
 
 There are reports of uneven bottom, with depths of 6 to 9 fathoms 
 or less, on. what appears to be a ridge connecting Pinnacle Island with 
 St. Matthew Island. Vessels are advised to avoid this passage. 
 
 ST. MATTHEW ISLAND. 
 
 Cape Upright, the eastern pjoint of St. Matthew Island, is high and 
 vertical, and the land in its immediate vicinity is mountainous; off 
 the cape is a detached rock about 25 feet high. Westward of the high 
 land of the cape there is a low neck, apparently of sand, and the cape 
 might easily be mistaken for a detached island. 
 
 Glory of Russia Cape, the northwestern point of St. Matthew 
 Island, is also high and mountainous, and the land between it and 
 Cape Upright is a succession of hills and low valleys that extend across 
 the island from north to south. 
 
 There are numerous detached rocks along all the shore of this 
 island, which should not be approached too closely. 
 
 There is an abundance of fresh water on the island in streams and 
 fresh-water lakes. 
 
 There is a good anchorage on the north side of the island in a bight 
 6}/2 miles westward of Cape Upright, with Sugarloaf Mountain bearing 
 218 true (SSW mag.), and westward of some outlying rocks which 
 show well out of water and should not be approached closely. This 
 anchorage is protected from southerly winds between -southeast and 
 southwest. Landing is difficult with any swell at all, as the beach is 
 of stones and rather steep. With northerly winds anchorage can be 
 had on the south side of the island. 
 
 Hall Island is high and rugged on its northeast, north, and west 
 sides, and slopes to the southeast point, where it is low. There is a 
 large detached rock off Cape Hall, and a number of detached rocks on 
 the south side of the island. There is anchorage in 10 fathoms on 
 the east side of the island in the bight where ruins are indicated on 
 chart No. 8851. 
 
 Sarichef Strait is the passage between St. Matthew and Hall Islands. 
 The tidal currents and rips are strong, and the rocks on either side 
 give it a bad appearance. It is said to be clear in mid-channel. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall at St. Matthew Island is 2.4 feet. 
 The flood current sets eastward, and the ebb westward, at the rate of 
 1 to 2^ miles. 
 
 CAPE VANCOUVER TO APOON PASS. 
 
 Cape Vancouver is a bold promontory, possibly 1,000 feet high. 
 The shoal from the mouth of the Kuskokwim River is thought to 
 extend along the coast to Cape Vancouver, so that on the south side 
 of the cape the water is shoal. Immediately off the end of the cape 
 
BERING SEA. 261 
 
 there is deep water, which extends about 5 miles along the north side 
 to the bight on which the native village of Tanunak is situated. This 
 bight is a series of mud flats, mostly bare at low water. The Bear 
 anchored in 4^ fathoms about 1 mile off the south point of the bight. 
 From observation on that vessel, shoals extend off the mouth of that 
 bight northwestward, and Hazen Bay is supposed to be shallow. 
 
 Father Barnum states that there are shoals parallel with the coast, 
 behind which small boats go when coasting between Scammon Bay 
 and Nelson Island. He is uncertain as to their exact limits and loca- 
 tion, but they are believed to extend from the north entrance to 
 Hazen Bay to, or nearly to, Cape Romanzof, with passages through 
 in places. 
 
 Cape Romanzof is a bold and prominent headland with cliffs rising 
 abruptly from the water over 1,200 feet along its western face; at the 
 sharp extremity of the cape there are remarkable perpendicular shafts 
 of rock on the side of the cliff. The cape is the western termination 
 of the Askinuk Mountains, the highest of which (2,363 feet) is about 
 5 miles from the cape and can be seen a considerable distance at sea. 
 A tidal current of about 1.6 knots was observed off the point. 
 
 Northeastward of the cape, 4J^ miles, is the southern end of the 
 Sand Islands. These two islands extend in a general north and south 
 direction about 13 miles, including the interval between them, and 
 at a distance from the coast diminishing from 7 to 5 miles. The north 
 island is mostly covered at high tide. 
 
 The coast trends in an easterly direction from Cape Romanzof 15 
 miles to the mouth of Kun River, and throughout most of this dis- 
 tance is bordered by abrupt cliffs and hills gradually diminishing in 
 elevation. 
 
 Scammon Bay lies between this shore and the south Sand Island. 
 In general it is very shoal, with numerous bars bare at low tide. 
 There are two small coves along its south side, respectively 1 and 9 
 miles from Cape Romanzof, but both are quite shoal. There is a 
 limited area with depth of 5 fathoms just south and east of the south- 
 ern end of Sand Island, and there is a channel of the same depth lead- 
 ing into this and passing about 2J4 miles north of Cape Romanzof. 
 A narrow channel with a minimum depth of about 2 fathoms con- 
 tinues through Scammon Bay and into the Kun River. There is 2 
 to 4 fathoms off Cape Romanzof but the water shoals quickly north- 
 eastward, so there is little protection except for very light-draft 
 boats. There is a large shoal area with breakers about halfway 
 between the cape and Sand Island, and another shoal with less than 
 2 fathoms lies 2J^ miles 338 true (NW ^ N mag.) from the cape. 
 Along the high land forming the south shore of Scammon Bay the 
 water is 1 fathom or less in depth throughout its length, excepting 
 just inside Cape Romanzof. The mean rise and fall of tides at the 
 entrance to Scammon Bay is 5.2 feet. 
 
 North from the mouth of the Kun River the coast is low and marshy 
 to the Yukon River mouths. It is reported to be extremely shoal 
 between the northern Sand Island and this shore. 
 
 The bay south of Cape Romanzof has not been explored, but a num- 
 ber of bars, bare at low tide, were seen extending across its entrance 
 between the cape and the north end of an island; near the latter 
 there appeared to be a channel. The coast between Cape Romanzof 
 and Nelson Island is low, and it is reported that the adjacent waters 
 are shoal. 
 
262 BERING SEA. 
 
 The Yukon Delta extends from the Black River to Apoon Pass, a 
 distance of about 90 miles. The land along the coast is only a foot 
 or two above high water, is covered with low marsh grass, and is 
 entirely lost to view when but a few miles offshore. The only land- 
 marks visible in clear weather are the sharp peaks of Kusilvak Moun- 
 tain and the Askinuk Mountains back of (Jape Romanzof, all very 
 distant and often obscured by clouds or mist. The extreme flatness 
 of the land and the remarkable mirage effect, often seen over the 
 shoals when bare, make the whole region deceptive at times. 
 
 The river discharges by many mouths through the delta. The 
 bars at the entrance have little depth, and the channels through the 
 flats are narrow, crooked, and bordered by shoals bare at low water. 
 They are also subject to constant change. Apoon Pass (see p. 273) is 
 the entrance used by the river steamers. 
 
 When well inside the confined banks, the country on each side is 
 covered with an almost continuous growth of willow and alder bushes. 
 The water has a brownish-white appearance, something like glacial 
 water, without its fine, sharp grit. It has no unpleasant taste, and 
 is always fresh in the inner channels. 
 
 The main channels are everywhere free from snags, though trees 
 are sometimes seen temporarily lodged on the bars, and quantities 
 of driftwood are piled along the shores in places. Undoubtedly the ice 
 freezes in and carries off the snags when it goes put each season. The 
 channels and banks show indications of changing rapidly both from 
 erosion and deposits. Very probably rnuch of this is effected each 
 year during the breaking up of the ice, its consequent jams, and the 
 great floods following. 
 
 Inhabitants. No white men live in the delta south of the Apoon 
 except the Catholic missionaries at a summer fishing station. The 
 native summer settlements near the mouths are shown on chart 9370. 
 The natives are friendly and honest, and will attempt to pilot boats, 
 with more or less success. 
 
 Currents. None were observed to exceed 3 miles per hour. In the 
 delta channels currents were observed varying from 0.5 to 1.6 miles. 
 The velocities were greater in the bar channels and up the river. 
 
 Weather. The prevailing winds in summer are northeasterly, 
 easterly, and southeasterly; the strong blows are believed to come 
 from the same directions. Fogs were unusual, but there was a good 
 deal of thick mist and rain. 
 
 Yukon Flats. The 6-fathom curve is about 10 miles westward of 
 Cape Romanzof. From about 15 miles off Cape Romanzof the 
 6-fathom curve on the western edge of the flats has a general 24 true 
 (N y% E mag.) direction for about 108 miles to latitude 63 32' N, 
 longitude 164 58' W. At this point it turns to a general 87 true 
 (NE by E % E mag.) direction for 61 miles to the west point of Stuart 
 Island. On the western edge of the flats the 3-fathom curve is 1^ 
 to about 5 miles inside the 6-fathom curve, while on the northern 
 edge the distance between the curves ranges from 5 to 10 miles. For 
 a distance of 40 miles northward of Cape Romanzof detached shoals 
 with 3% to 6 fathoms over them lie as much as 10 miles westward of 
 the flats as described above, and deep-draft vessels should give the 
 cape a berth of 30 miles to avoid these shoals. When in the vicinity 
 of the flats vessels should not shoal the water to less frhan 8 fathoms. 
 
BERING SEA. 263 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND. 
 
 The eastern end of this island is usually made by vessels bound into 
 Norton Sound, and in clear weather can be seen from a distance of 
 30 to 35 miles. From Southeast Cape a ridge of mountains extends 
 in a northerly direction across the island, and another ridge extends 
 in a northerly direction from East Cape to Northeast Cape. Between 
 these two ridges a deep bight makes in from southward and at its 
 head very low land extends northward across the island. The shore 
 of the eastern end of the island is generally a low sand beach with 
 outlying rocks; the mountain ridges begin }/% to 2 miles back from the 
 beach. 
 
 Northeast Cape is low tundra land, with numerous fresh-water 
 lakes, 2 miles wide to the foot of a mountain which rises abruptly and 
 has a peak 1,435 feet high which can be seen on a clear day a distance 
 of 35 miles or more. At J and % mile from the end of the cape are 
 two hummocks 94 and 280 feet- high, respectively; the lower hum- 
 mock is in latitude 63 17' 45" N, longitude 168 41' 40" W, as 
 determined by the Coast and Geodetic Survey in 1902. 
 
 Although the bottom is irregular off the point of the cape, no break 
 was noticed while passing it in rough weather. The north shore of 
 St. Lawrence Island, for a distance of 10 miles westward of Northeast 
 Cape, is a low sand beach and grassy tundra with numerous fresh- 
 water lakes. Anchorage with shelter from southerly or southeasterly 
 winds can be had along this shore about 2 miles from the beach in 8 to 
 9 fathoms of water; the holding ground is not good, the bottom being 
 gravel. At a point on the north shore 6 miles westward of North- 
 east Cape, breakers extend 1 mile offshore. 
 
 From Northeast Cape the east coast of St. Lawrence Island has a 
 general 192 true (S J^ E mag.) direction for 4 miles to a point' where 
 a spur, 450 feet high, from the higher hills reaches to within J^ mile 
 of the beach. . In this stretch the 6-fathom curve is % to 1 mile 
 offshore. A current observation made 2 miles southward of Northeast 
 Cape and 1 mile offshore gave a maximum velocity of 1.4 miles on 
 both flood and ebb; the flood sets northward and ebb southward 
 alongshore. 
 
 The east coast of the island then trends 209 true (S by W mag.) 
 for 4 miles, and then curves westward and northward in a distance 
 of 5 miles until it has a 322 true (NW by W mag.) direction, forming 
 East Cape. The coast of this entire section is a low, narrow strip 
 with a large lagoon back of it. East Cape is so rounding that there 
 is no particular point to which the name applies. The mountains 
 are about 2 miles back of it and are about 900 feet high. 
 
 Punuk Islands, lying 4 to 5 miles 164 true (SE by S mag.) from 
 East Cape, is a group of three small islands 1J^ miles long; the north- 
 eastern end of the group lies about 13 % miles 192 true (S y% E mag.) 
 from Northeast Cape. The northernmost and largest island has two 
 marked rocky hummocks, the higher having an elevation of 100 to 
 150 feet; on the southwestern end of the island are the remains of a 
 native village. The southernmost island is an irregular mass of 
 rocks, the highest point alout 75 feet above water. Between these 
 islands is a low, sandy islet, which is separated from the other two 
 by narrow channels completely obstructed by ledges over which the 
 sea breaks. The shores of all the islands are foul, and a ledge extends 
 
264 ST. LAWRENCE ISLAND. 
 
 southward from the southernmost island; the Patterson passed 2 
 miles southward of the islands in a least depth of 8 fathoms. Vessels 
 should approach these islands with caution. 
 
 A heavy break was observed in the channel between Punuk Islands 
 and East Cape, and vessels should not attempt to pass through. 
 From eastward the islands can be approached as close as 2 miles. 
 
 A current observation made 2% miles 220 true (SSW mag.) from 
 Punuk Islands showed the flood currents setting about 24 true (N 
 y% E mag.) with a maximum velocity of 1.1 miles. 
 
 Southeast Cape is about 5 miles across on its southern face; the 
 eastern point of the cape slopes gradually to the water for a distance 
 of }^ mile from the high land, and a reef extends about % mile south- 
 east from the point. The western point is lower and slopes more 
 gradually to the water for a distance of 3 miles from the high land, 
 and a reef makes off from the point in a southerly direction for a dis- 
 tance of 2 to 3 miles. The bight between these points is very foul 
 and should be avoided. 
 
 Cape Kialegak, about 5 miles northward of Southeast Cape, is a 
 long sand spit strewn with rocks, extending in a northeasterly direc- 
 tion from the high land of the coast, and forms what is in appearance 
 a good anchorage in southerly winds. There are breakers about % 
 mile 355 true (NNW mag.) from the end of the cape, and there may 
 be others inside; a reef extends southward from the south side of 
 the sand spit for a distance of about 1 mile. The remains of a native 
 village on the sand spit serve to identify the locality. 
 
 The deep bight westward of East Cape is little known; vessels 
 have anchored well up toward the head of this bight. Vessels enter- 
 ing should give the points a good berth and exercise caution. 
 
 Cape Chibukak, probably 600 feet high, is a steep, black bluff, flat 
 on top. There is a wide sand beach west of the bluff, on which is a 
 native village called Gambell. This native village, and the one on 
 Southwest Cape, are the only inhabited parts of the island. 
 
 The water is deep close to Cape Chibukak, and anchorage may be 
 made on either side of the point of the sand beach off the native vil- 
 lage, J^ mile from shore, in about 7 fathoms, hard bottom. 
 
 The western end of the island, south of Cape Chibukak, is rolling 
 land. From West Cape around to the bay east of Southwest Cape 
 the land is mountainous, and abrupt close to the coast, being highest 
 at Southwest Cape. Between the high land east of Southwest Cape 
 and Cape Chitnak the land is low. A reef makes off 1 mile in a 220 
 true (SSW mag.) direction from Cape Chitnak and is bare at low 
 water. The submerged part of this reef extends about 2 miles in a 
 general 175 true (SSE mag.) direction from the bare part. This 
 reef is dangerous, as the water shoals abruptly when approaching 
 the cape. The rest of the island is generally high and rolling. There 
 are some sunken rocks in the bight westward of Southeast Cape, and 
 also some detached rocks showing off the north shore near Cape 
 Kukuliak and North Cape. It is probable that with care an anchorage 
 may be found almost anywhere around the island, but the shores 
 must be approached with caution. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall at St. Lawrence Island is probably 
 about 1 foot at the east end, increasing to perhaps 2 feet at the west 
 end. The time of high water probably changes rapidly from point 
 to point, but no tidal observations have yet been made. 
 
BERING SEA. 265 
 
 NORTON SOUND. 
 
 Norton Sound is at present the most important arm of Bering Sea. 
 Some supplies for the Yukon River by way of St. Michael pass 
 through it. The north shore is also important because of the mining 
 operations now conducted there. The south side of the entrance 
 to the sound is occupied by the extensive Yukon Flats, and should 
 be avoided by deep-draft vessels. The rest of the sound generally 
 has soundings of 8 to 12 fathoms, the greater depths being near the 
 north side. Off Cape Nome and Cape Darby there are spots with 
 depths of 15 to 19 fathoms. The bottom of the sound is very even, 
 the depths decreasing to the shore with marked regularity, and the 
 lead will indicate the approach to dangers, and should be kept going 
 constantly. There is driftwood on all the shores of the sound. 
 
 Fog. The remarks on fog, page 228, apply also to the region west 
 of Cape Nome, but not to Norton Sound east of it. On entering 
 the sound with thick weather jn Bering Sea, the fog will almost 
 always thin out and gradually clear as the vessel proceeds up the 
 sound. At St. Michael fogs are rare. 
 
 Mirage. In the vicim'ty of St. Michael and Stuart Islands and 
 the coast southward mirage often distorts the appearance of the 
 land, small objects being sometimes greatly magnified. 
 
 Stuart Island lies northwest of St. Michael Island, from which it 
 is separated by Stephens Pass, about % mile wide in its narrowest 
 part. Stuart Mountain, 483 feet high, east of the center, is the highest 
 point. The rest of the island is low and rolling, with some small, 
 scattered peaks. The shore of the island is very irregular. From 
 North Point to Observation Point and around through Stephens 
 Pass is a line of conspicuous bluffs about 170 feet high; the rest of 
 the coast is much lower. From Observation Point to the west point 
 of the island the north shore is free from outlying dangers; 5 fathoms 
 can be carried 1 mile from the beach. Off the west point, some 
 detached rocks extend about 300 yards. On the east face of the 
 island well toward the southeast point a shoal makes out about 3 
 miles. 
 
 St. Michael Island is separated from the mainland by a narrow, 
 crooked, tidal slough, called St. Michael Canal. The island is gen- 
 erally low, and has two conspicuous elevations: St. Michael Hill, 
 near the center, 472 feet high; and Stephens Hill, a sharp, conical 
 hill overlooking Stephens Pass. There is a light on Cape Stephens, 
 the western point of St. Michael Island. A reef extends 1 Yi miles 
 off Rock Point, the point 51 true (NNE % E mag.) from St. Michael 
 Hill, and is marked on its northeast edge by a buoy in 29 feet of 
 water. 
 
 Whale Island, lying close off the east end of St. Michael Island, 
 is about J^ m il e long east and west, 118 feet high, and on approach- 
 ing the harbor its east end is seen a$ a vertical bluff. It is marked 
 on its eastern end by a light. The passage between this and St. 
 Michael Island is blocked by rocks, bare at low water. Eastward 
 and northward of the island the water deepens rapidly. 
 
 Beulah Island, about ^ m il e northwest from Whale Island, is 
 about 50 feet high, small and rounded. It has bold water off its 
 northeast side. Between this and Whale Island the water is shoal. 
 
 The tidal currents in Norton Sound are small, seldom exceeding 
 0.2 knot at strength. 
 
266 BERING SEA. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL. 
 
 St. Michael, on the east point of St. Michael Island, is the point 
 of transfer from deep-water vessels to the Yukon River steamboats 
 of the trading and transportation companies doing business on the 
 Yukon and its tributaries. This trade during the open season of 
 about four months is extensive. Some of the companies have small 
 wharves for the light-draft river vessels, and extensive warehouses 
 on St. Michael Island and opposite on the mainland. Seagoing 
 vessels discharge their cargoes by lighters. There is a wireless 
 telegraph station, and communication by telegraph with the interior 
 of Alaska and Seattle. 
 
 Supplies. Coal can generally be had for steamers; water and gen- 
 eral supplies can be had at St. Michael. 
 
 Repairs. The facilities for repairs above water and to woodwork 
 are good. Several blacksmith shops and small machine shops can 
 handle ironwork and minor repairs to machinery. 
 
 Anchorage. There is no harbor for seagoing vessels; the anchorage 
 is an open roadstead exposed to winds from northwest through north 
 to east. The larger vessels anchor in the offing between St. Michael 
 Bay and Egg Island, and in heavy northerly gales shift their anchor- 
 age to get a lee under Egg Island or go to sea. Anchorage is found 
 about y^ mile southeastward of Whale Island in 3^ to 4 fathoms, 
 bottom dark-blue mud and good holding ground. 
 
 Light-draft vessels and river steamers can find shelter from north- 
 erly and westerly winds by anchoring close in under the east side of 
 the island, in 3 to 8 feet. The shores of St. Michael Bay are strewn 
 with loose rocks, which are often frozen in the ice in winter and 
 dropped as it goes out in the spring. Light-draft vessels, when 
 anchoring in shoal water, should be careful not to anchor over any of 
 these loose, scattered rocks. 
 
 Egg Island. This island has been used as a quarantine station. 
 Vessels detained at quarantine anchored off the eastern shore, where 
 good water is found. The water off the western shore is deeper, 6 
 fathoms being found close inshore. The island is so small that it 
 does not afford much protection in heavy weather, but it is the only 
 lee to be had in northerly gales. 
 
 Tides. See Coast and Geodetic Survey tide tables, in which the 
 tides are predicted for every day of the current year during the season 
 of navigation. 
 
 Ice. The records of the Alaska Commercial Co. from 1880 
 to 1899, both inclusive, show that ice begins to move out of St. 
 Michael Bay between May 31 and June 25, the former being the 
 earliest date recorded and the latter the latest. The earliest date 
 recorded for ice forming in St. Michael Bay is October 6 and the 
 latest November 10; during the past 10 years, however, the dates 
 when ice formed ranged from October 18 to November 10. (See 
 also p. 226.) 
 
 ST. MICHAEL BAY TO CAPE DARBY. 
 
 The coast is generally low and rock strewn, and the depths when 
 approaching it shoal gradually from 6 fathoms toward the beach; a 
 depth of 3 fathoms can be taken as close as % mile except in a few 
 places. There are no outlying dangers, but a reef makes off about 
 
BERING SEA. 267 
 
 }/2 mile from' the shore 2 miles southward of Black Point, the point 
 about 26 miles northeastward from St. Michael. Tolstoi Point and 
 its vicinity are high and rocky, and from there to Unalaklik River 
 the shore is low. A shoal extends about 1 ^ miles off the mouth of 
 the Unalaklik River ; there is no channel through this shoal into the 
 river except for light-draft craft. Good anchorage, in southerly 
 winds, is found in the bight eastward of Kiktaguk, about 15 miles 
 eastward of St. Michael. There are a number of native villages on 
 this coast, and a depot for supplies at Unalaklik. 
 
 Besboro Island is 600 feet high and very prominent; on a clear day 
 it can be seen from St. Michael; it affords a poor lee, as the wind 
 draws all around the island. A shoal with depths of 4 to 4% fathoms 
 makes off 2 miles in a northeasterly direction from the north end of 
 the island; the western side of the island is bold-to, and the eastern 
 side of the island can be approached as close as J^ mile, with a depth 
 of over 5 fathoms. 
 
 Cape Denbigh is a moderately high, rounded hill, joined to the 
 mainland by a low, narrow neck. The head of the bight, eastward 
 of the cape, is shoal, but in approaching the water shoals gradually. 
 A good anchorage in northeasterly winds can be had eastward of the 
 cape in depths suitable to the draft of the vessel. The south end of 
 the cape is bold-to, and its western side, 2 y^ miles northward of the 
 point, can be approached close-to in 4 fathoms of water. The water 
 shoals rapidly inside a depth of 4 fathoms when approaching the 
 shore. 
 
 Norton Bay is generally shoal. About midway between Point 
 Dexter and Bald Head there is a depth of about 6 fathoms, and from 
 this depth the water shoals gradually, as the shores are approached 
 in any direction inside of Bald Head. In gome places the 6-foot 
 curve is 5 miles or more from the beach. The north shore of the bay 
 for a distance of 15 miles westward of Bald Head is comparatively 
 low, and the water is shoal for some distance from the shore. From 
 a point 15 miles west of Bald Head to Cape Darby the land is high 
 and wooded along the coast; a few native villages are located on this 
 stretch. For a distance of 20 miles northeastward from Cape Darby 
 a depth of 4 fathoms can be taken V mile from the shore, and in 
 some places much closer. The water shoals gradually on approach- 
 ing the coast, but the south and east sides of Cape Darby have deep 
 water close-to. During strong northerly winds the water is lowered 
 considerably in Norton Bay. 
 
 Cape Darby is a high, rounded mountain, which terminates at the 
 water in steep, rocky bluffs. Rocky Point is a high, bold promontory 
 with irregular rocky cliffs. 
 
 GOLOFNIN BAY, 
 
 the entrance to which lies between Cape Darby and Rocky Point, 
 with a width of 10 miles, extends in a general northerly direction for 
 12 miles to the entrance to Golofnin Sound. The east shore is high 
 and bold, with occasional sand and gravel beaches. Carolyn Island, 
 low and rocky, lies % m ile off the east shore, about 8 miles north of 
 Cape Darby. The west shore for about 3 miles north of Rocky Point 
 is high and bold, but beyond this is a low sand beach, with a promi- 
 nent point about 5 miles north of Rocky Point. At the head of the 
 
268 GOLOFNIN BAY. 
 
 bay on the west side the entrance to Golofnin Sound lies between a 
 sand spit projecting from the eastern shore and a low sand island 
 extending northward from the west shore and connected with it at 
 low water. 
 
 Deep water can be carried close under Cape Darby and Rocky 
 Point. Eastward of Rocky Point is an extensive middle ground on 
 which the least depth found was 3% fathoms; on its east edge it 
 rises abruptly from 6 and 7 fathoms. With the exception of this mid- 
 dle ground the bay is free from dangers south of the low point on the 
 west shore, the deepest water being on the east side, and ranging 
 from 1 1 fathoms close under Cape Darby to 4 fathoms J^J mile north- 
 west of Carolyn Island. In the south part of the bay the high land 
 may be approached closely, but off the low land the 3-fathom curve 
 is in places nearly 1 mile offshore. 
 
 Anchorage. A little westward of the southern sand spit, in the 
 entrance to Golofnin Sound, anchorage may be had in 6 to 7 fathoms, 
 with protection from all winds. For vessels whose draft prevents 
 the use of this anchorage, the best is off the point on the west side of 
 the bay in about 4 fathoms. This is unsafe in southerly weather, but 
 is the most convenient for communicating with the head of the bay. 
 By shifting anchorage from one side to the other in Golofnin Bay, 
 good shelter is found from easterly or southwest or westerly winds. 
 
 Golofnin Sound. In the north part of the bay an extensive shoal, 
 with 4 to 8 feet, makes out in a northeast direction from the west 
 shore to within % mile of the east shore, its extremity lying about 2 
 miles 93 true (ENE J^ E mag.) from the north point of the low sand 
 island on the south side of the entrance to Golofnin Sound. The 
 channel leading to the entrance to Golofnin Sound lies on the eastern 
 side of the bay, passing around the east end of the shoal and following 
 the -eastern shore at a distance of % to % mile, with an average width 
 of 800 yards. The least depth in the channel is 13 feet at low water, 
 but 15 feet has been taken in at high water. The rise and fall of the 
 tide (diurnal) is about 3 feet, but this is influenced by the prevailing 
 winds, which have a tendency to bank up the water in heavy south- 
 erly weather, and to lower it with northerly and northeasterly winds. 
 
 Golofnin (Golovin post office), on the north spit at the entrance to 
 Golofnin Sound, is a distributing point for the mining district of the 
 Fish River country. 
 
 Golofnin Sound is very shallow and is navigable for small steamers 
 of 3^ feet draft which ply from Golofnin to the mouth of the Fish 
 River, which empties into the head of the sound. The channel 
 through the sound is narrow and tortuous. 
 
 ROCKY POINT TO CAPE NOME. 
 
 For about 22 miles, from Rocky Point to Topkok Head, the land 
 is high and bold, in many places rising abruptly. Beyond this to 
 Cape Nome the coast is low with high land farther back. Imme- 
 diately behind this low land is a large shoal lagoon with two small 
 entrances, the west one called Port Safety. Between Rocky Point 
 and Cape Nome the water is deep, the bottom regular, and by giv- 
 ing the shore a berth of 1 mile, a depth of 6 fathoms or more will be 
 found. 
 
BERING SEA. 269 
 
 Topkok Head is 22 miles westward of Rocky Point, and is the first 
 high land close to the coast eastward of Cape Nome. Its seaward 
 face rises abruptly from the water 586 feet and is a well-known and 
 conspicuous landmark. 
 
 A yellow bluff, 572 feet high, on the east side of Bluff post office, 
 about 6 miles eastward of Topkok Head, is conspicuous, but not 
 as much so as Topkok Head. 
 
 Solomon is a post office at the mouth of Solomon River, 11 miles 
 westward of Topkok Head and 17 miles eastward of Cape Nome. 
 A railroad is under construction up Solomon Eiver. From a survey 
 made in 1902 there was a depth of 3 feet on the bar at the entrance 
 and inside Solomon River, but local knowledge is necessary to keep 
 in the best water. 
 
 Port Safety is a small anchorage for vessels of less than 7 feet draft; 
 it is about 8 miles eastward of Cape Nome. The channel is narrow 
 and has a depth of 7 feet. Small vessels can anchor in the narrow 
 sloughs which lead between the flats inside the entrance. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, UNIMAK PASS OR CAPE KALEKTA TO NORTON SOUND 
 
 OR PORT CLARENCE. 
 
 For vessels of any draft. If no observations can be obtained on 
 account of thick weather, the lead must be depended upon and used 
 constantly, as the currents are liable to set a vessel off her course. 
 
 To avoid Nunivak Island, and also to sight the island in clear 
 weather so as to check the vessel's position, the course should be laid 
 to pass about 18 miles westward of the island in latitude 60 14' 
 N and longitude 168 04' W. 
 
 I. From a position 5 miles 254 true (SW by W mag.) from Cape 
 Sarichef lighthouse, on the eastern side at the northern end of Unimak 
 Pass, a 344 true (NW by N mag.) course made good for 353 miles 
 should lead to the above latitude and longitude, and Cape Mohican 
 should bear about 95 true (ENE % E mag.) and be distant 18 
 miles. 
 
 II. Or, from a position 3 miles westward from Cape Kalekta a 
 352 true (NNW 34 W mag.) course made good for 376 miles should 
 lead to the above position with Cape Mohican bearing 95 true 
 (ENE % E mag.), distant 18 miles. 
 
 On the above courses little can be said of the currents except that 
 with a strong wind from any direction a current is likely to set with 
 it. A slight northerly set will sometimes be experienced. Thick 
 weather is the rule in Bering Sea during the season of navigation, 
 and care should be observed when in the vicinity of Nunivak island 
 (see also the description of Nunivak Island, page 257). 
 
 III. From Cape Mohican bearing 95 true (ENE % E mag.), dis- 
 tant 18 miles, a 4 true (N by W J4 W mag.) course made good for 
 166^ miles will lead to a position in latitude 63 N and longitude 
 167 40' W; the highest peak (1,462 feet) 3 miles back of Northeast 
 Cape, St. Lawrence Island, should then bear 300 true (W by N mag.), 
 distant 35 miles, and will be visible in clear weather at this distance. 
 From this position: 
 
 IV. If bound to St. Michael. Make good a 53 true (NE by N 
 mag.) course for 76^ miks to a position in latitude 63 46' N and 
 longitude 165 24' W. On this course the depth should be 12 fath- 
 
270 BERING SEA DIRECTIONS. 
 
 oms or mjore until the vessel has arrived at the above position. 
 From the above latitude and longitude a 93 true (ENE J/ E mag.) 
 course made good for 81 miles will lead to a position 3 miles north- 
 ward of Stuart Island with Stuart Mountain bearing 201 true 
 (S mag.). From this position make good a 126 true (ESE % E 
 mag.) course for 14^ miles, giving the shore of St. Michael Island 
 a berth of 3 miles. Whale Island light should then bear on the 
 starboard beam distant 3}^ miles, and deep draft vessels can anchor 
 in this position in about 5% fathoms. (See also "Anchorage," 
 page 266.) 
 
 On the 93 true (ENE }/% E mag.) course the lead should be fre- 
 quently used, and if the water is shoaled to less than 8 fathoms while 
 westward of Stuart Island it is pretty safe to assume that the vessel 
 is southward of her course. Thick weather is not as prevalent in 
 Norton Sound as in Bering Sea, and it is but seldom that Stuart 
 Island and the mountains southeastward of St. Michael can not be 
 seen and used as landmarks. 
 
 V. If bound to Golofnin Bay. Follow the directions in section IV, 
 and when the vessel is in latitude 63 46' N and longitude 165 24' 
 W make good a 59 true (NE y% N mag.) course for 71 miles, which 
 should lead to a position about 2 miles southeastward of Rocky Point 
 (the high point on the western side of the entrance to the bay). 
 
 VI. If bound to Nome. From a position in latitude 63 N and lon- 
 gitude 167 40' Wmake good a 33 true (N by E J E mag.) course 
 for 100 miles, which should lead to a position about 8 miles from the 
 beach abreast the town. Anchor according to draft, as indicated in 
 the description of Nome on page 274. 
 
 VII. If bound to Port Clarence. From a position in latitude 63 
 N and longitude 167 40' W a true (N by W % W mag.) course 
 made good for 138 miles will lead to a position about 8 miles from 
 Cape Tork. Then follow the directions under heading "Port 
 Clarence." 
 
 On the true (N by W y% W mag.) course, King Island should be 
 left about 8 miles on the port hand when the vessel has been standing 
 119 miles on this course. A northerly or northwesterly set of the 
 current may be found after the vessel has stood about 90 miles on 
 the course. In clear weather the mountains back of Cape York 
 should be sighted after King Island has been passed and the cape 
 should be made on the starboard bow. The depths until abreast 
 King Island range from 15 to 20 fathoms; but northward of King 
 Island the soundings are irregular and care should be taken not to be 
 set eastward toward the shoals which lie off the coast between Cape 
 Douglas and Point Spencer (see p. 275). 
 
 DIRECTIONS,. ISANOTSKI STRAIT TO ST. MICHAEL. 
 
 The following remarks are intended to apply only to small craft 
 and river steamboats. 
 
 After passing out of Isanotski Strait, clear of the outlying breakers, 
 the course is shaped for the east side of Amak Island. Shelter can 
 be found on the south, southeast, and east sides of the island. Some 
 of the Moran fleet found shelter in 1898 on the east side in about 6 
 fathoms. Capt. J. L. Fisher states that he crossed pretty close 
 inshore over the indicated shoal off the southeast end, with a least 
 
BERING SEA. 271 
 
 depth of 7 fathonis. He also states that the outlying rocks and reefs 
 on the north end of the island appeared very nasty and dangerous. 
 
 Leaving Amak Island, the next course is laid for Cape Newenham. 
 Shelter can be obtained on either side, according to the wind. 
 
 From Cape Newenham the course is laid for Nunivak Island. If 
 heavy northerly or northeasterly winds are encountered before the 
 island is reached, shelter is sought in the depth, of the bight on the 
 south side. Weather conditions being good, it is only necessary to 
 touch at this island if needing water. The anchorage on the north 
 side, about 12 miles eastward of Cape Etolin, is considered the best. 
 (See Nunivak Island, p. 257.) 
 
 From the northern end of Nunivak Island the customary course 
 is to cross over diagonally to a little north of Hazen Bay, and then 
 coast along just outside the shoals, in 3 to 5 fathoms of water, until 
 Cape Romanzof is reached. If the weather is unpropitious or water 
 is required, an anchorage in Scammon Bay is made close inshore on 
 the south side, in a bight where a stream empties. 
 
 After leaving Scammon Bay, by giving the spit on the north side 
 of the entrance a good berth, the remaining distance to St. Michael 
 is made by skirting along on the outer portion of the Yukon Flats, 
 in 2 to 5 fathoms, where the courses are exclusively guided by the 
 use of the lead. On this crooked stretch, after the mountains of Cape 
 Romanzof and the Kusilvak Mountains disappear, no land will be 
 visible until the high peaks on the mainland south from Stuart Island 
 are sighted; a little later the summits of Stuart and St. Michael 
 Islands become visible. After Stuart and St. Michael Islands become 
 defined, the course is shaped to go through the pass between them, 
 and then skirt around the north side of St. Michael Island to St. 
 Michael. 
 
 In the summer, from all that can be learned, northerly and easterly 
 winds prevail a large portion of the time between Cape Newenham 
 and Cape Romanzof. 
 
 The tidal currents in Etolin Strait are strong and at times cause 
 heavy tide rips. 
 
 COAST FROM ST. MICHAEL TO APOON PASS. 
 
 St. Michael being the end of deep-water navigation, all the Yukon 
 traffic beyond this point has to be conducted with vessels drawing 5 
 feet or less. The larger river steamboats leaving St. Michael Bay go 
 around the north side of St. Michael Island and through Stephens 
 Pass, between St. Michael and Stuart Islands. They give the reef 
 off Rock Point, on the north side of St. Michael Island, a wide berth, 
 and after passing between the islands a straight course is made 
 slightly westward of Point Romanof. When the summit of Point 
 Romanof is abeam, distant about 1 y^ miles, the direction is changed 
 and a course is made for the range lights for entering the Apodn 
 Pass. The most dangerous portion of the passage is the 14 miles 
 around the north end of St. Michael Island, which is exposed to the 
 deep-water swell from the north. This can be avoided by small craft 
 by going through St. Michael Canal. 
 
 St. Michael Canal separates St. Michael Island from the mainland, 
 and is a narrow, crooked, tidal slough, which forks and comes together 
 again. The distance through by way of the north fork is 18 miles 
 
272 ST. MICHAEL TO APOON PASS. 
 
 and by the south one 20 miles. The southern and longer one is the 
 wider, and for that reason is the one generally used. There is a 
 sufficient depth in the canal for ordinary river steamboats. The 
 northern entrance has a dredged cut 6*4 miles long and 100 feet wide, 
 with a depth of 6 feet at low water, extending from deep water in 
 St. Michael Bay. The channel, during the summer months, is 
 marked by buoys. 
 
 The southern entrance has about 3 feet on its bar at mean low tide. 
 Thus far, on account of its narrowness and sharp curves, it has only 
 been used by the smaller class of steamboats. A light is maintained 
 on Canal Point during the summer months. 
 
 From Stephens Pass to Apoon Pass is 42 miles along an open coast, 
 but owing to the protection from heavy seas offered by the flats that 
 extend seaward, it is safe in summer months for the flat-bottomed 
 river steamboats that have to traverse it. 
 
 With the exception of the promontory of Point Romanof , the imme- 
 diate coast is low and flat afl. the way from St. Michael Island to and 
 including the Apoon entrance. The promontory of Point Romanof, 
 340 feet nigh, stands well out about 12 miles westward from the high 
 hills of the coast range. After clearing Stephens Pass it appears in 
 clear weather like an island in the sea. A light is shown on the point 
 from about July 15 to October 15 of each year. 
 
 Coming north from the Apoon entrance after passing Point Rom- 
 anof, Crater, St. Michael, and Stuart Mountains appear above the 
 horizon, and afford excellent marks. 
 
 In moderate weather the ocean swell is not felt between Stephens 
 Pass and the Apoon entrance; but in heavy weather and westerly 
 weather, which is more likely to occur during the latter part of the 
 season, there is a choppy sea which is heavier off Point Romanof 
 than elsewhere. In general, after rounding the north side of St. 
 Michael Island, this passage is safe for river steamers in the summer 
 season. During the latter part of the season, however, high winds 
 become more frequent, and the boats are obliged to watch their 
 opportunities. 
 
 Anchorages. River steamboats anchor on the flats or in the chan- 
 nel, wherever exigency demands. 
 
 Good shelter can be had in all but southwesterly weather in the cove 
 on the south side of Cape Stephens, in 6 to 9 feet of water. Stebbins, 
 a large Eskimo settlement, is located on this cove. 
 
 In the southern end of St. Michael Canal, in the southern branch, 
 just above the junction, there is a good and safe anchorage in all 
 kinds of weather. There is only about 3 feet at mean low tide on 
 the outside bar, and it has to be crossed at high tide. 
 
 About 10 miles southward of Canal Point is the Pikmiktalik River. 
 In the mouth of the right-hand stream there is anchorage for medium- 
 sized steamers. The bar to this stream has only about 2% feet on it 
 at mean low tide. A shoal extends out from tne south point at the 
 entrance. 
 
 The mouth of the Pastoliak River, about 2 miles from the outer 
 end of the Apoon Pass, affords anchorage for steamboats under 
 medium size. The Apoon flats extend in front of the entrance, and 
 it can only be entered at high tide. 
 
YUKON DELTA. 273 
 
 APOON PASS. 
 
 This is the most northern outlet of the Yukon River, and is about 
 55 miles, via Stephens Pass, from St. Michael. It is used exclusively 
 by the steamboats trading up the Yukon and its tributaries. 
 
 Apoon Pass is the extreme northeastern limit of the Yukon Delta. 
 In common with the rest of this region, the country is low and flat, it 
 being 1 to 2 feet above high-water mark. Down to within about 2 
 miles of its mouth, the banks are generally covered with low willow 
 and alder bushes 8 to 10 feet high. Near the mouth the land becomes 
 more marshy, and a considerable area westward appears to be entirely 
 an open marsh. The open country eastward is flat, and is made up 
 of marsh, ponds, and tundra. The only high ground in the general 
 vicinity is Hogback, a rounded ridge about 300 feet high lying 5 miles 
 east from the entrance. Some distance back from the coast, 12 to 
 18 miles, is seen the range of hills or mountains trending southwest- 
 ward, which extend in that direction to where the Yukon makes its 
 great bend to get around the end of this ridge. On these low, flat 
 shores there are often remarkable mirage effects, tending greatly to 
 magnify insignificant objects. 
 
 Bar. Off the mouth of Apoon Pass, and for some distance north- 
 westward, the bottom is nearly flat, haying a depth of about 2 feet 
 of water at low tide, and with little choice as to a channel. All but 
 very light-draft vessels must time their departure from St. Michael 
 so as to cross these flats at high tide, or must wait for the tide. Some 
 dredging has been done on a project to cut a 6-foot channel across 
 the flats at the entrance ; the progress to date is shown on the current 
 editions of the charts. 
 
 Pastol Bay front and rear range lights show the best lead across 
 the flats. Pastolik River light, Apoon Bar light, and Apoon Mouth 
 light are guides to the channel inside the flats. This channel is further 
 marked by about 15 buoys, so that no detailed directions are necessary 
 for following it. Lights and buoys are maintained only during the 
 navigation season, from about July 15 to October 15 each year. 
 
 The distance between the Apoon mouth and the head of the delta 
 is traversed by going up the Apoon Pass about 31 miles to where it 
 branches off from the Kwikpak Pass, and then up the Kwikpak about 
 30 miles to the head of the delta, where it and the KwiMuak Pass 
 separate the Yukon into two principal mouths. The channels and 
 banks are subject to rapid change both from erosion and deposit. 
 
 Inhabitants. The natives are mostly migratory, living at different 
 places at different seasons. Their principal settlement, after leaving 
 St. Michael Island, is on the Pastolik River. Kotlik, about 6 miles 
 from the Apoon mouth, on the Kotlik River, has a store, Greek church, 
 and a few dwellings. New Fort Hamilton is on the Kwikpak, 36 miles 
 above Kotlik, where there is a station of the North American Trading 
 & Transportation Co. 
 
 Pilots. River steamboats in general carry Eskimo pilots, who may 
 be hired at St. Michael and at various places on the river. They are, 
 as a rule, familiar only with a portion of the river, those from St. 
 Michael usually going up as far as Andreafski. A number of native 
 pilots live at the village near the mouth of the Pastolik River. Except 
 with local knowledge a pilot is necessary in following the Apoon, The 
 31056 16 18 
 
274 YUKON DELTA. 
 
 Eskimos are generally quick-witted and have a good eye for the water; 
 but some who offer their services as pilots have little idea of the 
 requirements of a steamer, being used only to their own skin boats. 
 
 Tides. The tropic rise and fall in Apoon Pass is 4.8 feet. The tides 
 at this entrance, as is the case with the shores of eastern Norton 
 Sound, are greatly affected by the winds, northerly and easterly ones 
 making low waters, and southerly and southwesterly ones making 
 high waters. The wind effect may be sufficient to entirely obliterate 
 the natural tide conditions. The effect of the tides reach above the 
 head of the delta. At the head of the Kwikpak Pass the rise and fall 
 is about 6 inches. 
 
 Current. The ordinary outflow of the Apoon is much less rapid than 
 other mouths of the Yukon; but there is a tidal inflow and outflow, 
 the velocity of which depends upon the amount of the rise and fall of 
 the tide at any particular time. 
 
 Ice. In the fall thin ice begins to make in the river the latter part 
 of September, and navigation in October is attended with danger of 
 being frozen in. It is more than probable that the movement and 
 clogging of the ice in the breaking up of the river in spring has much 
 to do with the location and peculiarities of the channels and with 
 clearing it perfectly from snags. 
 
 Supplies. Immediately within the Apoon mouth the water is fresh, 
 and that on the flats outside, close in, is nearly so, the degree of fresh- 
 ness depending upon the stage of the tide. 
 
 Cordwood is cut and sold by the natives along the river from the 
 mouth up. Small woodpiles can be seen at intervals. That in the 
 delta, and more particularly near the mouth, is of inferior quality, 
 being cut from wet driftwood. 
 
 COAST FROM CAPE NOME TO BERING STRAIT. 
 
 Cape Nome is a bluff, about 300 feet high, apparently 1 mile broad, 
 and rounded down to the water on either side, where there is low 
 land at the shore, with higher land farther back. The water off 
 this cape is quite deep. The tropic rise and fall of tides at Cape 
 Nome is 2.1 feet. 
 
 From Cape Nome to Cape Rodney the coast, except abreast of 
 Sledge Island, is a comparatively straight stretch of low sand beach 
 with no projecting points and the higher land some distance back. 
 Abreast of Sledge Island for a distance of several miles the hills 
 slope down to the beach, giving this part of the coast the appearance 
 of a point. The stretch of beach is broken by a number of small 
 rivers, where mining is in progress. The entrances to Nome, Snake, 
 Penny, and Sinuk Rivers have shifting bars, but there is generally 
 water enough in the channels over these bars to permit steamers of 
 4 feet draft to enter. When approaching the coast between Cape 
 Nome and Sledge Island, the water shoals regularly and gradually 
 until a depth of 5 fathoms is reached; inside this depth the bottom 
 is irregular, especially near the mouths of the rivers. 
 
 A small shoal, witn about 18 feet over it, lies about 9 miles west- 
 ward of Cape Nome and 2)4 miles offshore. Shoals extend a com- 
 paratively short distance off the mouth of Nome River. 
 
 Nome is on the beach at the mouth of the Snake River, about 11 
 miles westward of Cape Nome. The general anchorage for deep- 
 
CAPE NOME TO BERING STRAIT. 275 
 
 draft vessels is in 7 fathoms about 1 mile from the beach abreast 
 the town. Vessels of less draft anchor in 5 fathoms a little closer 
 to the beach, but it is not advisable to anchor in less. In strong 
 southerly winds no landing can be made on the beach, and the 
 anchorage is unsafe. Southerly winds raise the water and northerly 
 winds lower it. At Nome there is a relief station of the United 
 States Public Health Service, for the treatment of seamen, and a 
 wireless telegraph station. There is a railroad up the Nome River 
 to Lanes Landing on the Kuzitrin River, the latter emptying at the 
 head of Imuruk Basirf. 
 
 Sledge Island, about 31 miles west of Cape Nome and 4J^ miles 
 offshore, is a rocky, flat-topped island rising 604 feet above the 
 water, and comparatively rounded in outline. There is a native 
 village on a small, rocky slope on the east side; excepting this and 
 a short sand spit making on from the northern end of the island, 
 the shores are steep. The island may be safely approached from 
 any direction, and anchorage may be had on all sides of it; the bot- 
 tom is rocky in spots. A depth of 6^2 fathoms has been found 
 about 3% miles offshore and about 7^ miles eastward from Sledge 
 Island. During heavy weather, tide rips, or breakers, have been 
 observed about % mile eastward from the northern point of the 
 island ; a depth of 5 fathoms is reported near this locality. 
 
 A depth of 3 fathoms, hard clay and bowlders, is reported 7 miles 
 westward of Sledge Island and 4 miles from the beach just eastward 
 of Cape Rodney. The 2J and 3 fathom shoals off the mouth of 
 Sinuk River are said to exist about as charted. 
 
 From Cape Rodney to Cape Douglas the shore is a low sand beach, 
 and the high land is farther inland from the beach than eastward of 
 Cape Rodney. This coast is seldom approached close-to; the water 
 is comparatively shallow, and dangerous shoals and ledges are found 
 between Cape Douglas and Point Spencer. Vessels are cautioned to 
 exercise care when approaching the shore while southward of Cape 
 Douglas, and to give the shore between Cape Douglas and Point 
 Spencer a berth of over 5 miles. 
 
 Currents. A tidal current is perceptible from Cape Nome to Cape 
 Rodney, but the strongest current sets northwestward; lying at 
 anchor, vessels usually tail northwestward. In the vicinity of 
 Sledge Island and between the island and the mainland the currents 
 have considerable velocity; with strong southeast winds an average 
 velocity of 2 miles and a maximum velocity of 3J/2 miles per hour 
 have been observed setting northwestward. Vessels when in this 
 vicinity should give special attention to the currents. Above Cape 
 Rodney there is no perceptible current southward or eastward; the 
 general set is northward and westward. 
 
 Off Nome City the tidal current is small, the average maximum 
 being less than 0.2 knot. A northwest set of about 0.2 knot was 
 found. West of Cape Nome the tidal current is less than 0.2 knot. 
 
 King Island is rugged and rocky, about 2 miles square, and 700 
 feet high. It has nearly perpendicular cliffs, deep water, and gener- 
 ally rocky bottom on all sides. There is a native village on the south 
 side, the houses being built in the sides of the cliffs some distance 
 above the water. Off the village, but close inshore, vessels may 
 anchor in about 15 fathoms, muddy bottom, with good protection 
 from northwest winds. In clear weather the island is an excellent 
 
276 BERING STEAIT. 
 
 landfall for vessels coming from southward and bound to Port 
 Clarence. 
 
 Cape York is a high, rocky, nearly vertical cliff, with numerous 
 ravines, and a range of high, rugged mour tains immediately back of 
 it. The cliff is about 10 to 12 miles in ex*ont. There is no distinct 
 promontory, and no exact point along the cliff that can be defined as 
 the cape. The water shoals slightly off the western end of the cliff, 
 but nothing less than 6 fathoms will be found at a distance of 2J^ 
 miles from shore. A shoal with 2 fathoms is reported about 1}^ 
 miles southeastward of the cape. 
 
 A rock is reported about % mile from the shore southeastward of 
 York village. 
 
 Between Cape York and the high land of Cape Prince of Wales 
 there is a bight, with comparatively low, rolling land back of it 
 extending across the peninsula to the northern shore. The beach is 
 low, and the water shoals gradually when approaching the shore. 
 The eastern part of the bight is slightlv shoaler than the western 
 part; about 6 fathoms will be found 1 mile offshore; in the western 
 part of the bight 8 fathoms will be found at the same distance from 
 the beach. When standing westward alongshore, and when abreast of 
 Cape Mountain, the water deepens suddenly to 20 fathoms. 
 
 PORT CLARENCE 
 
 is a good harbor, close to the strait, free from ocean swell, and is clear 
 of ice about June 25 to 30. The bay is formed by a sand spit which 
 extends from the mainland about 10 miles in a northerly direction 
 to Point Spencer. The point is bold, with depths of 7 fathoms as 
 close as ^ mile. 
 
 The channel between Point Spencer and Point Jackson, on the 
 north shore, is about 4 miles wide, clear of danger, and carries 7 to 9 
 fathoms. One and one-half miles south of Point Spencer a shoal 
 makes into the bay from the sand spit, with depths of 2J^ fathoms 1 
 mile off. The northern half of the bay has a general depth of 7 fath- 
 oms as close as 1 mile from the shore; the southern half of the bay 
 shoals gradually from this depth toward the shore, and the extreme 
 southern part is very shoal. The north shore is clear of danger and 
 can be approached as close as % mile, the soundings decreasing 
 regularly to the beach. 
 
 l^ort Clarence connects at its northeast end with Grantley Harbor, 
 which is 2 to 3 miles wide, about 8^ miles long, and connects at its 
 eastern end by a narrow, difficult channel with Inuiruk Basin. The 
 mouth of the harbor is formed by two sand spits which slightly over- 
 lap ; on the southern spit is the settlement of Teller, a post office and 
 distributing point for supplies for this section. The water westward 
 of the sand spits is shoal, but there is a channel close to the north one 
 which can be used by vessels drawing 12 feet or less, but which should 
 be sounded out before attempting to enter. Inside the harbor the 
 depths range from 2j^ to 3 fathoms, and it is probable that a draft 
 of 12 feet can be taken through the channel to the basin. Vessels 
 have gone into Grantley Harbor to heave down and repair on the 
 north sand spit. Bering is a settlement on the eastern shore of Port 
 Clarence about 5 miles south of Teller. 
 
 Fresh water can be obtained in several places in Port Clarence, 
 the best being from a stream on the east side near Bering. 
 
BERING SEA. 277 
 
 Anchorages. There is anchorage in 5 fathoms, just inside Point 
 Spencer; also in 5 fathoms 1^ miles off Teller, the village bearing 
 116 true (E ^ S mag.), exposed to southwest winds only. 
 
 Fog. In this vicinity fog is quite prevalent and very dense in 
 summer. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall in Port Clarence is 1 foot. South- 
 westerly winds increase and northeasterly winds decrease the height 
 of tide. 
 
 Current. Outside of Point Spencer the current sets northwestward 
 with a velocity of 1 to 2 miles per hour. 
 
 DIRECTIONS, PORT CLARENCE. 
 
 In approaching Port Clarence in thick or misty weather the long, 
 low spit of sand and shingle which forms the west side of the bay is 
 not seen until close-to. The best course from southward is to steer 
 directly for Cape York, bearing in mind the set of the current north- 
 westward, and after making Cape York follow along the coast east- 
 ward until the entrance to Port Clarence is made out, then steer for 
 the anchorage just inside Point Spencer. Or, follow the north shore 
 at a distance of about 2 miles until abreast the settlement at Teller. 
 
 Dangers. A ledge with a reported least depth of 1% fathoms lies 
 nearly 5 miles offshore and about halfway between Cape Douglas and 
 Point Spencer, and vessels should keep well outside of it. Extending 
 about west-northwest from this ledge toward Cape York is a ridge 
 with hard bottom and depths ranging from 4 fathoms near its south- 
 eastern end to 5 fathoms in about the latitude of Point Spencer. 
 Spots with depths of 6 fathoms over them will be found 15 miles 
 offshore westward of Cape Douglas. It is recommended that vessels 
 approaching Port Clarence give the lowland between Cape Douglas 
 and Point Spencer a berth of not less than 5 miles before hauling in 
 for the entrance. 
 
 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 The remarks on the navigation of Bering Sea (p. 225) apply generally 
 to the Arctic Ocean as far as Point Barrow, except that the current 
 and soundings in the Arctic are more uniform, and, with the exception 
 of the shoals at Cape Prince of Wales, Hotham Inlet, Blossom Shoals, 
 and Point Franklin, there are no outlying dangers, and the lead is an 
 excellent guide in approaching the land. Another exception is that 
 in the Arctic the question of ice must always be considered. The 
 following remarks on the navigation, weather, and currents of the 
 Arctic Ocean, by Capt. M. A. Healy, R. C. S., contained in the report 
 of the cruise of the revenue steamer Corwinin the Arctic Ocean, 1884, 
 though relating to an extreme season, may be of interest to those 
 navigating these waters: 
 
 In my previous experience in the Arctic I have never seen a season like the past. 
 From the time of first reaching the ice up to leaving the Arctic, dense fog has been 
 almost constant. Currents that have hitherto been considered permanent in direc- 
 tion, if not in force, have become erratic, and others have entirely failed. The ice 
 fell back before the sun's advance slowly and compactly. For three weeks after we 
 reached the Diomede Islands it refused entrance into Kotzebue Sound, and three 
 weeks later still it was hanging with discouraging tenacity around Point Hope. It 
 was unsafe to anchor with any but a short scope, moving steam had to be kept, and 
 constant vigilance exercised to prevent being dragged ashore by fields of ice moving in 
 
278 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 the rapid and changing currents. For weeks at a time it was impossible to take obser- 
 vations, dead reckoning was almost worthless, owing to the continual changes in force 
 arid direction of the currents, and the safety of the ship depended entirely on the con- 
 stant use of the lead. Fortunately for those who are obliged to sail this frozen ocean, 
 the depth of water is not so great but what bottom can always be obtained, and the 
 proximity of land is indicated by regular shoaling, with but few exceptions. Yet 
 with this aid and the best charts that we have, several years' experience is necessary 
 to enable the navigator to judge with any degree of precision the position of the ship. 
 Anyone at all familiar with coasting knows how difficult it is to recognize land in a 
 fog, where marks are well defined high bluffs often appearing like low beaches and 
 small rocks looming to gigantic size, while the general contour of the small portion of 
 the shore visible may be taken for almost any land that one expects to make. How 
 much more difficult must it be where the formation of the shore for miles differs but 
 little, as is the case in the Arctic. 
 
 Among the best landmarks that we have in these northern waters are the bird rook- 
 eries at King Island, the Diomedes, Cape Seppings, Cape Thompson, and Cape Lis- 
 burne. The distance between these rookeries enables one to form a very accurate 
 idea of the one he is approaching, while the cries of birds congregated at them answer 
 the purpose of a fog signal. With one or two exceptions, these are the only aids to 
 navigation. 
 
 In the shallow waters of this ocean the effect of the wind on the currents is very 
 marked. 
 
 Inside the Arctic Circle snow has fallen all the past season, and it may almost be 
 said that there has been no summer. As late as August 27 ice was within a few miles 
 of Cape Sabine, and at the Seahorse Islands it was heavy and dangerous. The pack 
 at this time was still southward of Point Barrow, and vessels could not go eastward of 
 that place this season . During the latter part of our stay the weather was exceptionally 
 severe. 
 
 The experience of many years in the Arctic has demonstrated the fact that no rules 
 whatever can be given as to the time of the breaking up of the ice. The severity of 
 the winter, the time at which spring weather opens, and the beginning of southerly 
 winds that break up the ice all have their influence in governing this time. Vessels 
 have been able to enter St. Michael as early as May 21; this year we found ice to the 
 southward of St. Matthew Island on June 2, and some days later still in the season ves- 
 sels have been stopped by it between the Seal Islands and Nunivak. The southern 
 limit of the ice is almost entirely dependent on the severity of the winter. Heavy 
 southerly winds and swell will break up the ice, and if followed by northerly winds 
 it will open out and the waters become navigable. When once broken up, if the 
 weather is mild, it will not cement again if nipping, and consequently will open more 
 readily to light winds. Northeast winds tend to drive the ice off the American shore 
 and westerly winds off the Siberian side. With these few exceptions, little can be 
 said of ice conditions. 
 
 In clear weather the ice blink indicates the presence of ice, and it may be seen a 
 great distance; but in thick, foggy weather approach to the pack must be made with 
 great caution. Its proximity is usually indicated by the slack, and when this once 
 begins to be seen about the vessel it may be judged that a large body is not far distant. 
 As the pack is neared, one sees only ice as far as the eye can reach. It rises from 10 to 
 25 feet above the water. It is a well-known fact that the depth of water and the sur- 
 rounding features of this ocean render the formation of large icebergs an impossibility. 
 
 When a pack is reached, it usually becomes necessary to track along its edge to find 
 a lead. Whoever is piloting the ship takes his place at the masthead and with glass 
 in hand seeks for a favorable opening. Oftentimes days are spent working up and 
 down along the ice without clear water presenting itself, and when it does extreme 
 caution must be used in entering the lead. It is here that the judgment and expe- 
 rience of the ice pilot becomes a necessity. The weather, currents, appearance of the 
 ice, probable winds, and a dozen other things that would never enter the mind of a 
 novice are to be taken into consideration before the vessel's head is turned into the 
 pack. Once it is determined to enter the lead, vigilance must be doubled and every 
 faculty kept on the alert. The vessel is conned from the masthead, and, while direct- 
 ing how the helm must be put to keep clear of immediate danger, the pilot must be 
 looking ahead for the clearest water and watching ice, sea, and sky for change of 
 currents and winds. If any signs of the closing-in of the lead are presented, the vessel 
 must be gotten out as soon as possible, for, if shut in and she escapes being crushed, 
 she will go to the northward in the drifting pack from 1 to 2 knots per hour, and it 
 will become necessary to abandon her. If the lead followed up is between the ground 
 ice and the pack and the wind comes on shore, a safe place can sometimes be found 
 behind the ground ice. A vessel may be made fast to this ice with grapnels, or anchored 
 
ARCTIC OCEAN. 279 
 
 to leeward of it, and lay with comparative safety. If anchored in a current, however, 
 with^ drifting ice about her, the scope of chain must be short and everything kept in 
 readiness for getting under. way at a moment's notice. If anchored in shoal water, it 
 is desirable to get in the ice as far as possible to avoid the swell; but if the water is 
 deep, the ice should be avoided. Generally the presence of the ice tends to kill the 
 swell, and it will be found much smoother inside the ice than out. 
 
 The bowhead whale keeps as far to the northward as he can find spouting holes, and 
 to take him the whalers are obliged to keep as close to the pack as possible. Usually 
 they track along the Asiatic side in Bering Sea and Strait, and, as they reach the 
 Arctic, cross over and work up the American shore to the northward and eastward. 
 In Bering Sea there is very little danger in entering the ice, as it is almost sure to 
 open and offer a chance to escape before reaching the Arctic. With a knowledge of 
 this fact, whalers sometimes enter the ice to the southward of the strait and endeavor 
 to work through it if they have reason to believe, from the sudden disappearance of 
 the whale, that there is clear water to the northward. In the Arctic, however, the 
 pack is carefully avoided, and it is only when ^ conditions are most favorable that 
 attempts are made to follow up the leads. Point Barrow is approached with the 
 greatest caution, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the Arctic. As has already 
 been mentioned, by far the major portion of the vessels lost in the Arctic are wrecked 
 in its vicinity. 
 
 Ice. Bering Strait is free of ice by the first week in July and some- 
 times earlier, but clear water does not extend very far northward, and 
 it is seldom possible for vessels not fitted to encounter ice to reach 
 Point Hope before July 10-15. Kotzebuc Sound is usually open by 
 July 15, at times a few days earlier, but it has been known to remain 
 closed until the last of July. The running ice from Kotzebue 
 Sound is encountered at Point Hope some time after the pack has 
 moved northward. By July 15 the main pack has moved north of 
 Cape Lisburne. 
 
 Thus far the movement of the ice does not appear to depend to such 
 a great extent on the winds, it is reasonably certain each year, and 
 dates can be depended upon within a small limit of time; but north 
 of Cape Lisburne the movement is generally slow, uncertain, varying 
 greatly in point of time in different years, and seems to depend almost 
 wholly on the winds for its further movement. Prevailing north- 
 easterly winds move it away from the shore rapidly and early, while 
 southwesterly or westerly winds hold it against the shore and make a 
 late season. 
 
 From Icy Cape north no specific time can be set for the opening of 
 navigation. Its variations are from July 12 to the latter part of 
 August, though an average date for the whaling vessels to reach Point 
 Barrow is about August 1. Between these points and the early part 
 of the season the ice is always dangerously near the shore, and south- 
 westerly or westerly winds will bring it in. Later, the southern point 
 of the pack is just off Seahorse Islands and generally remains there the 
 rest of the season. From the Seahorse Islands to Point Barrow the 
 pack is seldom far offshore, and from the latter point can almost 
 always be seen. During the open season it is always liable to come 
 in on these two points with a westerly wind. 
 
 Boyond Icy Cape there is always danger to vessels, and strangers 
 should be cautious and careful in goin<* there., In the lead of open 
 water between the pack and the shore the current is swift and nearly 
 always carries drift ice, and vessels rarely reach Point Barrow at any 
 time without encountering some ice. The ice can not be forced, and 
 vessels should not venture into small leads between the pack and shore 
 ice. With a southwesterly or westerly wind, which brings the ice in, 
 vessels seek protection east of Point Barrow when it is open, in Peard 
 
280 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 Bay close in as possible, and under the lee of heavy ground ice, which 
 acts as a breakwater against the smaller cakes. In anchoring where 
 there is drifting ice, vessels should use a short scope and be ready to 
 get under wav immediately. A comparative^ small cake will some- 
 times cause the loss of an anchor and chain. In the vicinity of Point 
 Barrow sailing vessels should not go offshore in water too deep to 
 anchor, as in Tight winds or calms the current is likely to take them 
 into the pack. Navigation east of Point Barrow is such that it 
 should only be attempted by those having experience. 
 
 As a rule, the pack does not come down on Point Barrow before the 
 latter part of : September, but in 1897 it came down the first of Sep- 
 tember, and. in general, except for whaling vessels, whose officers are 
 men of long experience in judging the ice, weather, etc., September 1 
 is as late a date as vessels should remain in that vicinity. About this 
 time, or a little later, young ice begins to make in the lagoons, along 
 the shore, and around the old ice, though it is not likely to form in the 
 open sea until the last of the month. The young ice makes stronger 
 and spreads over the open sea with the advancing season. It is 
 dangerous to vessels, and will very quickly cut through one not 
 sheathed to withstand it. Ordinary vessels should be out of Kotzebue 
 Sound by September 15 to 20, and out of the Arctic by October 1. 
 The whaling vessels make it a rule to be ready to leave" there about 
 October 10, and though there may be times when they stay later, 
 these are exceptions. 
 
 At times there is a body of ice, which holds on the Siberian shore 
 through the summer, that moves down past East Cape into the 
 western side of Bering Strait, sometimes as early as the latter part 
 of -August, and makes that side of the strait difficult of navigation 
 late in the season. 
 
 Weather. In summer the weather is usually light, with much fog 
 and rain. The winds are variable, though mostly easterly and 
 southerly. There are seldom gales in summer, but occasionally, 
 sometimes with intervals of years, there come southwesterly gales, 
 short-lived but very severe and disastrous, as there is little protec- 
 tion from winds in that quarter. In the vicinity of the ice the 
 weather is nearly always light and foggy. Later in the season it 
 grows more boisterous, gales are frequent and more generaUy from 
 northward, and as the weather grows colder there is considerable 
 snow. 
 
 Currents. From Bering Strait to Point Barrow there is a general 
 current setting northward alongshore (stronger inshore), which, 
 when not affected by winds or stopped by the ice, has a velocity of 
 not less than 1 mile at any f>art of it. The current from the strait 
 turns northeastward and is joined north of Cape Krusenstern by that 
 from Kotzebue Sound. From Eschscholtz Bay a northerly current 
 sets alongshore on the eastern side of Kotzebue Sound, having a veloc- 
 ity of y<i to 1 mile at Cape Blossom. It continues past Cape Krusen- 
 stern, where it is increased by the flow from Hotham Inlet to a velocity 
 of 1 to 2 miles, and northward of the cape joins the current from 
 Bering Strait, where, in the latter part of July and August, its ve- 
 locity is 1 y^ to 2 miles. It continues with the same velocity around 
 Point Hope, then with a reduced velocity to Cape Lisburne and 
 across to a short distance south of Point Lay. After rounding 
 
ARCTIC OCEAN. 281 
 
 Point Hope, and thence to Icy Cape, the current does not appear so 
 strong, and, as a rule, is about 1 mile. 
 
 In the bight between Cape Lisburne and Cape Beaufort there is a 
 tidal current, and unless, driven in by a westerly wind, the outside 
 general current is not felt. 
 
 Northward of Point Lay, if the ice has not opened up from the 
 shore, the current is stopped ; but if the ice is open to Point Barrow 
 the current continues along the. shore and, because of the con- 
 tracted space between the shore and the ice, increases in velocity 
 to from 2 to 3 miles, and sometimes more, at Point Barrow. 
 
 This general current is more or less affected by the wind, and may 
 be decreased or even stopped at times by northerly winds, but 
 when the wind abates it starts again. When the wind is with the 
 current its velocity is increased. Well offshore the currents are 
 variable and not so strong, and depend to a great extent on the winds. 
 There is, however, a general set northward. 
 
 Cape Prince of Wales is a peak, 2,300 feet high, comparatively 
 regular in outline ; on the south and southwest sides the slope of the 
 mountain comes down to the sea. The face of the cape is a low 
 sand beach, which extends northward 3 to 4 miles from the base of 
 the mountain, and then trends northeastward toward Shishmaref 
 Inlet. On this sand beach, close to the mountain, is the native 
 village of Kingegan (Wales post office), the largest on the northern 
 coast. 
 
 On approaching the cape from southwestward, nothing less than 
 20 fathoms can be had at a distance of % m il e from the highland 
 at its southwestern extremity. From this point the 20-fathom line 
 runs nearly northwest, gradually increasing its distance from shore 
 until 5 miles northward, where it is 3 miles offshore. The 3-fathom 
 line, commencing very close to the southwest point, increases, almost 
 at once, its distance from the shore to 1 mile, continuing at that dis- 
 tance until the cape makes northeastward, where it joins, presum- 
 ably, Cape Prince of Wales Shoal. 
 
 Cape Prince of Wales Shoal seems to be a ridge of sand, which 
 extends about 8 true (N by W mag.) from the western extremity of 
 the cape to a distance of about 25 miles. The depth of water on the 
 shoal is not definitely known, but numerous cases are reported of 
 whaling vessels having struck on it at distances supposed to be 10 
 or 15 miles from the cape. The western face of the shoal is very steep, 
 the depth decreasing rapidly from 20 fathoms. It is recommended 
 that vessels give this shoal a wide berth, and not haul eastward when 
 coming from southward until at a distance of 25 to 30 miles from the 
 cape. Vessels bound southward through the strait should be careful 
 not to fall too far eastward and be caught between the shoal and the 
 northern shore, especially sailing vessels with northerly or north- 
 easterly winds. 
 
 Vessels making an anchorage off the native village of Kingegan at 
 Cape Prince of Wales should approach it only from southwestward. 
 The soundings decrease rapidly from 13 fathoms, and anchorage 
 should not be made in less than 7 fathoms. During the open season 
 the current sweeps by the cape northward with a velocity of 2 to 3 
 miles, and care should be taken in making an anchorage here not to 
 be swept by this current upon the shoal. 
 
282 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 Fairway Rock is a high, square-headed, steep-sided rock. The 
 bottom is steep-to on all sides, and there are no outlying dangers. 
 
 Big and Little Diomede Islands rise abruptly from the sea, with 
 nearly perpendicular sides; they are steep-to, and there are no 
 beaches. The tops of the islands are a sort of broken table-land. 
 The larger island is 1,759 feet high, the smaller somewhat lower. In 
 their vicinity the water is deep with generally rocky bottom, and the 
 anchorage is poor. There are some rocks above water close to shore 
 on the west side of the larger one. The native village on the larger 
 island is on the southwest side, off which vessels can anchor in 14 
 fathoms, sandy bottom. The channel between the islands is about 
 2 miles wide. It is not generally used, but whaling vessels have 
 passed through, carrying 20 fathoms of water, favoring the side of the 
 channel next the larger island. There is a native village on a rocky 
 slope on the smaller island facing this channel, off which a reef of rocks 
 and sand is said to extend a short distance into the channel. 
 
 East Cape is a bold, rugged headland, about 2,500 feet high, steep 
 on all sides, and with deep water quite close-to. It has low, marshy 
 land back of it, and when seen at a distance appears as an island. 
 There are no dangers off the land, and except at the anchorages the 
 water is deep with rocky bottom. There is good anchorage (in 8 
 fathoms) with good shelter from offshore winds, on both the north 
 and south sides of the cape, where the low land back of it begins. 
 There is also an anchorage (in 10 fathoms, muddy bottom) off the 
 native village on the face of the cape. 
 
 From Cape Prince of Wales to Shishmaref Inlet the coast is a low 
 sand beach, with lagoons and marshes back of it. On a clear day the 
 mountains in the interior can be seen, the Ears and Potato Mountain 
 (Cone Hill) being distinguishable. 
 
 Shishmaref Inlet, a large inlet extending into the land, has been 
 explored by prospectors. Across its mouth is a low sand island, with 
 shallow openings at each end. Shoal water extends off the mouth of 
 the inlet several miles. It is reported that small craft can enter the 
 inlet, and that there is a shelter for such behind the island at the 
 entrance. 
 
 From Shishmaref Inlet to Cape Espenberg the coast is higher than 
 that westward of the inlet, and is a line of low bluffs and small sand 
 dunes, terminating at Cape Espenberg in a very low spit, which is 
 made out with difficulty. A number of small native settlements are 
 scattered along this coast from Cape Prince of Wales to Cape Espen- 
 berg. 
 
 KOTZEBUE SOUND 
 
 is about 30 miles wide at its entrance between Cape Espenberg and 
 Cape Krusenstern, 22 miles from Cape Espenberg to the shoal water 
 off the mouth of Hotham Inlet, and extends about 30 miles south of 
 Cape Espenberg. Except for the shoal off the mouth of Hotham 
 Inlet, the soundings throughout the sound are very uniform, varying 
 from 7 to 9 fathoms. From Cape Espenberg the west shore of the 
 sound is shallow some distance from the land, and vessels should 
 approach it with care. The land on this side of the sound is gener- 
 ally low. There is a small but conspicuous hill about halfway 
 between the cape and the southern shore. On the south side of the 
 sound the land is higher, more rocky, and of a bolder character than 
 
ARCTIC OCEAN. 283 
 
 the west shore. Under water, also, it is bold, and has soundings of 
 4 and 5 fathoms quite close to the promontories. 
 
 Chamisso Island, at the entrance to Eschscholtz Bay, is a small, 
 rounded island with a grassy hill 231 feet high. Its shores are rocky, 
 except its northeast end, which is a low sand spit. Along its north 
 and east sides shoals extend % to % mile offshore. 
 
 Puffin Islet, west of Chamisso Island, is rocky, with two conspicu- 
 ous rocks southward of it. Between the island and rocks and Cham- 
 isso Island the water is shoal and rocky. The water on the north and 
 west sides of Puffin Islet is bold. 
 
 Chamisso Anchorage, between Chamisso Island and Choris Penin- 
 sula, is the only place on the Arctic coast of Alaska that can be called 
 a harbor. By shifting anchorage y^ mile good shelter can be found 
 from all winds. Off Choris Peninsula shoals extend toward Chamisso 
 Island fully 1 mile. The deepest water is close to Puffin Islet. In 
 approaching the anchorage give^ Point Garnet, the southwest extrem- 
 ity of Choris Peninsula, a berth of 1 mile, and stand down well toward 
 Puffin Islet before hauling in. Anchor with Puffin Islet bearing 
 203 true (S mag.) at a distance not greater than % mile, in 8 fath- 
 oms, muddy bottom. 
 
 Early in the season, fresh water can be obtained on Chamisso 
 Island and on the east side of Choris Peninsula. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall at Chamisso Island is 4 feet. 
 
 Kiwalik River empties on the southern shore about 8 miles south- 
 ward of Chamisso Island. It is reported that with local knowledge 
 a depth of 12 feet at high water can be taken into the river to an 
 anchorage behind the spit at the mouth. Kiwalik is a post office on 
 the spit at the mouth of Kiwalik River. 
 
 Deering is a post office on the south side of Kotzebue Sound at 
 the mouth of Inmachuk River, about 22 miles westward of Kiwalik. 
 
 Eschscholtz Bay, east of Chamisso Island and Choris Peninsula, is 
 generally shoal. The soundings decrease gradually from Chamisso 
 Anchorage to 2J/2 fathoms at 2 miles off the point which lies 4 miles 
 west of Elephant Point. East of this point the shoaling continues, 
 and this part of the bay is only navigable for small boats. The shore 
 at the head of the bay is difficult of access on account of long, muddy 
 flats, which, at low water are bare in some places % m i]- e from the 
 beach. It is probable that the whole bay is gradually filling up, and 
 vessels going east of Chamisso Anchorage should proceed with cau- 
 tion. Buckland River, a large but shallow river, empties into the 
 head of the bay. There are few natives in its vicinity. 
 
 Choris Peninsula, forming the western side of Eschscholtz Bay, has 
 two hills, about 300 feet high, separated by a low, sandy neck. 
 Northward of Choris Peninsula the land is low for some distance, 
 and then rises into low bluffs which continue to Hotham Inlet. 
 These bluffs are composed of ice and frozen mud, which is gradually 
 melting and sliding down, making deep furrows all along their face. 
 
 Cape Blossom is a distinctly marked point in this line of bluffs, 
 which are highest at the cape and slone to either side. 
 
 The bottom of this side of the sound is very even southward of Cape 
 Blossom at a distance of about 5 miles from the land ; but northward 
 of the cape a shoal, with very little water on it, extends 8 to 10 miles 
 off the land from the mouth of Hotham Inlet, and south to within 2 
 miles of the latitude of Cape Blossom. This shoal is very dangerous, 
 
284 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 as the soundings give short warning of its proximity, the distance from 
 the shore can not be judged under ordinary conditions, and there are 
 no good landmarks. 
 
 The general anchorage in this vicinity is off Cape Blossom, as 
 it is the nearest point from which communication can be had with 
 Hotham Inlet. In approaching the cape, it should not be brought to 
 bear eastward of 90 true (ENE mag.) until in the vicinity of the 
 anchorage. Anchor in 5 fathoms with the cape bearing between 90 
 true (ENE mag.) and 102 true (E by N mag.) distant 3 miles. This 
 anchorage is protected from northerly and easterly winds. There is 
 generally a current, strongest in the early part of the season, with a 
 velocity of J^ to 1 mile, setting northwestward. 
 
 The coast from Cape Blossom to the mouth of Hotham Inlet is the 
 place of rendezvous for the natives of the surrounding country for the 
 purpose of fishing and trading. The coast natives from Cape Prince 
 of Wales, including the Diomedes and King Island, to Point Hope, 
 assemble here about the last of July to meet those who come down the 
 large rivers from the interior. 
 
 HOTHAM INLET 
 
 is about 35 miles in length and 4 to 8 miles in width. Its general 
 trend is southeast; its water is little influenced by tides, but a pro- 
 longed southeast wind causes a low stage. The entrance is obstructed 
 by vast mud flats and sand bars, some of which are bare at low water. 
 There is a shifting channel, which is difficult to trace, running close 
 along the shore from Cape Blossom north to the inlet, through which 
 4 to 5 feet can be carried. This channel could not be found in 1898. 
 A channel with a depth of 8 feet on the bar at high water was used in 
 1898, but it is difficult to find without a pilot. The entrance to this 
 channel was about 10 miles from the Cape Blossom shore and 'well 
 northward of the cape. Winds from southward and westward raise 
 the water on the bar and from northward and eastward lower it. In 
 the inlet proper the channel in 1884 had a depth of 3 to 7 fathoms for 
 a distance of 20 miles. There are three large rivers emptying into 
 the inlet. No landing can be made at many places in the inlet on 
 account of extensive mud flats. 
 
 The Noatak River, joining it at the north, has numerous rapids, 
 and is not navigable lor any distance for boats larger than native 
 canoes. The natives portage from the headwaters of this river to 
 the Chipp River, and thus to the Arctic Ocean east of Point Barrow. 
 There is a cannery at the mouth of the river. 
 
 The Kobuk River empties at the east side of the inlet by many 
 mouths, off which shoals with 2 to 4 feet extend far out into the 
 inlet. In crossing the bar, which is indicated by drift lodged on 
 the shoals, it is difficult to find a channel, the one generally used 
 being known as the "Middle Mouth. " The delta from the inlet is 
 about 45 miles long and very difficult to navigate, but when fairly 
 between the banks of the river there is comparatively deep water. 
 In 1898 a large number of prospectors were attracted to the region 
 of Hotham Inlet. Two stern-wheel steamers were used in trans- 
 porting their supplies up the Kobuk River, and it is said that these 
 steamers ascended the river 200 miles. The current in the river 
 was found very strong, running at some points with a velocity of 
 
ARCTIC OCEAN. 285 
 
 5 or 6 miles an hour. The current is dangerous for small boats; 
 eight men lost their lives in 1898 while boating their provisions up 
 the river. The natives portage from the headwaters of the Kowak 
 River to the Kovukuk Kiver, a branch of the Yukon. 
 
 Selawik Lake is the prolongation of the head of Hotham Inlet 
 eastward; it is about 50 miles long and 20 miles wide, and a depth 
 of 2 fathoms can be taken around the lake by giving the shores a 
 good berth. It has a large river, Selawik River, emptying into it 
 at its head, the entrance of which is obstructed by a mud flat extend- 
 ing % mile from the shore, through which a depth of 12 feet could 
 be carried, in 1884, into the westernmost outlet of the river into the 
 lake. 
 
 KOTZEBUE SOUND TO POINT BARROW. 
 
 From Hotham Inlet to Cape Krusenstern the coast is a low beach. 
 The shoal water from the mouth of the inlet extends nearly halfway 
 to the cape; the edge of the shoal is steep, and should be approached 
 carefully. From where the shoal joins the land to Cape Krusenstern 
 there is good water close in, with regular soundings. 
 
 Cape Krusenstern. Back of Cape Krusenstern there is a high, 
 prominent range of mountains, which can be seen at a long distance. 
 On. nearer approach the mountains are seen to fall away to the 
 cape in a series of steps, and in shaping a course into the sound these 
 cliffs, or steps, must not be mistaken for the cape, which is a low 
 point x tending about 3 miles westward of them. A shoal extends 
 about 2 miles westward and northward off the point of the cape. 
 
 From Cape Krusenstern to Cape Seppings the coast is a low, shingly 
 beach, back of which is a series of lagoons, which discharge their 
 waters through small, shallow openings. The high land of Cape 
 Krusenstern extends along this coast some distance inland, termi- 
 nating in the Mulgrave Hills, about 30 miles northwestward. After 
 passing Mulgrave Hills the land is an extensive plain until in the 
 vicinity of Cape Seppings. Here the mountains approach close to 
 the coast and slope down to the water. Cape Seppings and Cape 
 Thompson are not distinct, and it is difficult to determine the points 
 to which the names should be applied. 
 
 In the vicinity of Cape Thompson, for a distance of 6 miles, the 
 mountains break off directly to the water in a series of abrupt cliffs 
 about 500 feet high. The coast is generally straight, and there are 
 no distinct promontories. What was probably named Cape Thomp- 
 son is a rugged mountain face, about in the middle of this line of 
 cliffs, having at its southern end a distinct series of strata in the 
 form of an irregular semicircle. In the ravine south of this point 
 there is a small stream, from which good water can easilv be obtained. 
 Directly off the watering place anchorage may be had in 5 fathoms, 
 sandy bottom. At other points along the cliffs the bottom is gen- 
 erally rocky. 
 
 From Cape Thompson the mountains continue northward to Cape 
 Lisburne, while the coast curves northwestward and westward to 
 Point Hope. 
 
 Point Hope is the western extremity of a low tongue of land which 
 projects almost 16 miles from the general line of the coast mountain 
 range. It has a steep shingle beach, and its surface is broken by a 
 number of lagoons. The largest of these, Marryat Inlet, has its 
 
286 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 entrance on the north side, close to where the coast trends northward, 
 and a draft of 10 feet can be carried through the entrance. For a 
 number of years some small schooners have been using this inlet as a 
 place to winter. Those not familiar should sound out the channel 
 before entering. In the first of the season, when the ice breaks in the 
 inlet, there is a strong current running out and the moving ice is more 
 or less dangerous. There is a large native village called Tigara on the 
 end of Point Hope, and scattered on the south side, from the end of 
 the point to Cape Thompson, are a number of whaling stations con- 
 ducted by white men, which are maintained throughout the year. 
 
 In the bight just west of the high land of Cape Thompson ^ the 
 water is somewhat shoaler than farther west, though the soundings 
 are regular. Seven miles east of Point Hope there is a 3-fathom 
 shoal nearly 1 mile offshore. As the point is approached the water 
 deepens, and toward its end 8 fathoms can be carried to within % 
 mile of the beach. The tip of the point is very bold, there being 13 
 fathoms a few ship's lengths from shore; but on rounding the point 
 to the north side the soundings decrease rapidly to 5 fathoms Y^ 
 mile from shore, and, in general, the water in the bight on the north 
 side of the point is shoaler than on the south side. At the mouth of 
 Marry at Inlet shoals extend off some distance. 
 
 There is a narrow shoal, with a depth of 4 fathoms at its southern 
 end, which lies about 2J4 miles 314 true (WNW mag.) from Point 
 Hope. This shoal extends in a general 314 true (WNW mag.) 
 direction for a distance of 3 miles from the 4-fathom spot, and has 
 depths of 5 to 7 fathoms over it. 
 
 From the mouth of Marryat Inlet to Cape Lisburne the mountains 
 lie along the coast and terminate at the shore in rugged, rocky cliffs. 
 There are a few ravines through the cliffs, having running streams, 
 with beaches at the shore, where fresh water can be obtained. 
 
 Cape Lisburne is a bare, brown mountain, 850 feet high, forming a 
 rugged headland that is distinctly marked by the number of pinna- 
 cles and scattered rocks near its summit. Its faces at the shore are 
 very steep. At the cape the coast changes its direction abruptly 
 eastward. There are no outlying rocks, but there is a ridge extend- 
 ing 5 miles northeastward from the cape, on which 5 fathoms can be 
 found at a distance of 2 to 3 miles from the land. Off this cape the 
 wind rushes down from the mountains in gusts of great violence and 
 varying directions, and with offshore winds vessels should keep well 
 off the land in passing. 
 
 From Cape Lisburne to Cape Sabine the land is lower and loses the 
 rugged character of that southward of the former cape. The hills are 
 rounded and rolling, regular in outline, and slope to the sea. Toward 
 Cape Sabine the land becomes a series of ridges and valleys running 
 inland; both terminate at the coast in bluffs. 
 
 Cape Sabine is the end of one of these ridges, and projects but 
 slightly from the general line of coast. 
 
 Coal. Veins of coal are found from Cape Thompson to Cape Beau- 
 fort. In the face of the bluffs at Cape Sabine some veins, varying in 
 thickness from 1 to 4 feet, have been worked by whaling vessels. 
 The veins show plainly along the top of the bluffs directly at the shore. 
 The use of the coal is limited, owing to its poor quality and the diffi- 
 culties in obtaining it, and it is not recommended to depend upon it 
 except in case of necessity. 
 
ARCTIC OCEAN. 287 
 
 From Cape Sabine to Cape Beaufort the land continues of a rolling 
 character until nearing the latter cape, which is a dark mountain 
 coming down directly to the coast. There is no break in the coast at 
 the cape, and it probably received its name as such because seen at a 
 distance. This is the most northern extension of high land on the 
 coast of Alaska. The mountains at this point trend inland and the 
 coast continues low. 
 
 The bight from Cape Lisburne to Cape Beaufort is comparatively 
 shallow, but the bottom is regular, and anchorage may be had any- 
 where alongshore from 1 to 2 miles from land. Directly off Cape 
 Beaufort the water is shoaler than elsewhere between it and Cape 
 Lisburne. There are numerous valleys along this part of the coast, 
 nearly all of which have streams 01 good water. North of Cape 
 Beaufort it is almost impossible to obtain fresh water on the coast. 
 
 About 10 miles north of Cape Beaufort is the southern end of a 
 large lagoon, which stretches along the coast without a break to within 
 a few miles of Wainwright Inlet. Separating this lagoon from the 
 ocean is a narrow strip of sand beach, elevated but a few feet above 
 the water, with several small, shallow openings through it south of 
 Icy Cape, and two considerable openings north of that cape. The 
 land on the inside of the lagoon is generally low, but in coasting along, 
 some small bluffs, with low, rolling land back of them, can be seen in 
 places. South of Icy Cape the lagoon has three large rivers emptying 
 into it, and its whole extent is filled with flats and bars that make it 
 scarcely navigable even for native canoes. North of Icy Cape the 
 water in the lagoon is deeper. Through an opening about 10 to 12 
 miles from the cape 8 feet of water can be safely carried, with 2 to 3 
 fathoms inside. The channel is close to the sand spit on the south 
 side of the entrance. 
 
 Another opening, 10 to 12 miles farther north, is somewhat shal- 
 lower. 
 
 Point Lay and Icy Cape are merely bends in the sand spit forming 
 the coast. Both places can be distinguished by some hummocks on 
 the beach. A wooden beacon, 20 feet high, was erected on Icy Cape 
 to mark the beginning of Blossom Shoals. 
 
 From Cape Beaufort to Icy Cape the bottom is regular, and the 
 shore can be approached closer than in that part of the bight west of 
 the former cape. When coasting, it should be remembered that off 
 the openings into the lagoon the water is shoaler than on either side. 
 
 Blossom Shoals extend 6 to 8 miles off Icy Cape, and are a number 
 of ridges parallel with the coast. These shoals are greater in extent 
 than shown on any chart, and, from the grounding of vessels and 
 observation, appear to be spreading. In approaching the shoals the 
 bottom is lumpy and the soundings irregular. Of late years, on 
 account of frequent grounding in unexpected places about the edge 
 of the shoals, all the whaling vessels give them a wide berth; and it 
 is recommended that vessels rounding Icy Cape should keep outside 
 of 12 fathoms. 
 
 Wainwright Inlet, about 40 miles from Icy Cape, is a moderate- 
 sized lagoon, and has a river emptying at its head. Its entrance, 
 between Point Marsh and Point Collie, is a narrow, difficult channel, 
 through which 8 to 10 feet can be carried. Inside the water is deeper. 
 Off the mouth of the inlet the water is shoal fully 1 mile from land. 
 
288 ARCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 The coast from Point Collie to Point Belcher is a continuous line of 
 mud cliffs until within a few miles of the latter point. 
 
 At Point Belcher the coast again becomes a shingle beach, with 
 lagoons inside, and back of it low, rolling hills, which are higher than 
 any other land that can be seen north of Cape Beaufort. North of 
 the point the coast continues in a very low sand beach to Seahorse 
 Islands. 
 
 Seahorse Islands and Point Franklin are the highest points of a 
 continuous sand bank which extends from a point 8 miles north of 
 Point Belcher to Point Franklin, thence turning abruptly east to 
 the mainland at Peard Bay incloses a large lagoon. The first two 
 islands from Point Belcher are higher than the rest of the bank, and 
 their position seems to be permanent. The openings between the 
 islands are, as a rule, very shallow and continually changing. Former 
 openings are now closed, and openings now occur in the positions of 
 former banks. Point Franklin is a very small sand island, with 
 several hummocks on it. It is so small and far removed from the 
 other islands that it is not easily made out. The greatest changes in 
 the bank occur in that part of it between Point Franklin and Peard 
 Bay, of which what is above water is merely a narrow strip of sand. 
 
 In the vicinity of Seahorse Islands the water is shoal, especially off 
 the openings and Point Franklin. Off Point Franklin a shoal makes 
 out several miles northward and northeastward, and vessels rounding 
 the point should give it a berth of 4 to 5 miles. 
 
 Peard Bay, eastward of Point Franklin, is a deep bight which is 
 often used by whalers in heavy southerly and southwest winds, and 
 for protection from ice when it sets toward the shore. The bottom 
 of the bay is regular, and the soundings decrease gradually to the 
 shore. The water is deeper along the m'ainland than on the south 
 side along the sand spit making out to Point Franklin. 
 
 The coast from Peard Bay to Cape Smyth is a line of mud cliffs 25 
 to 70 feet high, being highest at what is called Skull Cliff. From 
 this point they become gradually lower to Cape Smyth, where they 
 end. The coast curves regularly northward, and there are no pro- 
 jecting points. The cliffs are broken by numerous small rivers. 
 There are beaches at the mouths of the rivers, but little or none along 
 the face of the cliffs. 
 
 Cape Smyth is not a projecting point, and can not be distinguished 
 as a cape. There is a large native village at the end of the mud cliffs 
 at this point. The United States signal station and refuge station, 
 formerly here, are not now maintained, but there is a whaling station 
 conducted by white men. 
 
 From Cape Smyth to Elson Bay the coast is low with a grassy plain 
 back of it; but from the head of Elson Bay to Point Barrow the coast 
 is a narrow sand spit. 
 
 Offshore from Refuge Inlet to the head of Elson Bay the water is 
 deep, and soundings of 15 fathoms are found about 2 miles from the 
 land. The water then shoals evenly to 7 fathoms at about 1 mile 
 from shore. The depths then lessen rapidly to 2^ to 3 fathoms 
 about % mile offshore, where there is a slight ridge shoved up by the 
 ice, and which in the early part of the season is always marked by 
 heavy ground ice. Inside and close to this ridge the water deepens 
 again to 3 to 4 fathoms, and vessels seek this inside passage for pro- 
 tection from the ice when necessary. The ridge ends in a 2 ^-fathom 
 
ARCTIC OCEAN. 289 
 
 shoal about 1 % miles offshore where the high land ends and the sand 
 spit begins at the head of Elson Bay. From this point to Point 
 Barrow, depths of 3^ to 4 fathoms can be carried very close up to 
 the sand spit, and there is apparently no ridge in the bottom as in 
 that southward. 
 
 At Point Barrow, latitude 71 23' 31" N, longitude 156 21' 30" 
 W, the most northern point of Alaska, the sand spit forming the 
 coast turns abruptly eastward. There is a native village on the end 
 of the point. Directly off the point the water is fairly bold, and 3 
 fathoms can be carried to within J^ mile of the shore. Farther off- 
 shore the deepest water of this part of the Arctic Ocean is found. On 
 rounding the point eastward the water becomes shoal, and the coast 
 can seldom be approached anywhere closer than 2 miles. About 2 
 miles east of Point Barrow is Moore Channel, the entrance to Elson 
 Bay, where H. M. S. Plover wintered in 1852-53-54. A shoal with 
 a least depth of 2 fathoms makes off from the point on the east side 
 of the channel, and extends westward, from J^ to % mile off the 
 sand spit, and ends nearly opposite the native village on Point Bar- 
 row. Inside the shoal there is a channel leading to Moore Channel, 
 with nothing less than 3 fathoms, and deeper water in Moore Channel. 
 This channel is often used as an anchorage for protection from the ice, 
 as heavy ice grounds on the outer shoal. Changes may be expected 
 in the channel at the entrance. 
 
 Tides. The mean rise and fall at Point Barrow is 0.4 foot. 
 
 COAST EASTWARD OF POINT BARROW. 
 
 A shoal, with a depth of 3J fathoms, is reported to lie about 6 
 miles northeastward from Point Barrow. 
 
 Ice. The ice pack seldom moves more than a few miles offshore 
 between Icy Cape and Point Barrow, and is likely to close in at 
 any time. A northeast wind, although it blows directly along the 
 shore, keeps the ice clear and allows the current to set up past 
 Point Barrow. The heavy ice, when close inshore, stops the surface 
 current entirely and lowers the temperature to about 36 F. or less, 
 so that a vessel working up the shore may readily tell if the ice is 
 on the point by watching the set of the current and the temperature 
 of the water. If the ice is clear of the shore the current will be 
 setting northward from 1 knot to 3 knots per hour, with a tempera- 
 ture of about 40 F. 
 
 A vessel going northward of Icy Cape should sight the ice pack 
 frequently, keeping close watch of its movements, and in the event 
 of its starting inshore should get below Blossom Shoals as soon as 
 possible, as several vessels have been caught in the ice in the vicinity 
 of Point Barrow, and some probably crushed. 
 
 Eastward of Point Barrow it is reported that ice is always found 
 along the coast, the heavier ice being in close proximity to the vari- 
 ous projecting points and islands. With westerly or northwesterly 
 winds the ice pack is likely to come down upon the shores at any or 
 all of these points, while a northeasterly wind may be expected to 
 clear the ice from the coast and open a lane. 
 
 Tangent Point is low, flat, and indented by a number of shallow 
 
 lagoons. 
 
 31056 16 19 
 
290 AKCTIC OCEAN. 
 
 Cape Halkett lies about 55 miles eastward ol Tangent Point. 
 Pacific Shoal, about 1 mile in extent and having about 15 feet of 
 water, is reported about 7 miles eastward of Cape Halkett. 
 
 Colville River enters the ocean 40 miles eastward of Cape Hal- 
 kett. The delta at the mouth of the river is called Beechey Point. 
 
 Jones Islands, also called Thetis Islands, extend from the delta of 
 Colville River eastward a distance of 25 miles to Return Reef. The 
 group consists of a considerable number of small islands, the largest 
 reported to be about 3 miles in length. 
 
 Return Reef was the most westerly point reached by Franklin in 
 &is exploration ol the coast in 1826. 
 
 Midway Islands, about 15 miles eastward of Return Reef, form 
 the western extremity of a chain of islets and shoals known as lion 
 Reef, which extends eastward, roughly parallel to the coast, a dis- 
 tance of 50 miles to Flaxman Island. The islands lie, in general, 
 from 4 to 7 miles offshore. Separating the islands from the main- 
 land is a channel, reported to have a least depth of 18 feet in the 
 middle, which has been used by whalers compelled to seek refuge 
 from the ice. Vessels enter past Pole Island, about midway of the 
 group, steering for a small inshore group of islands shown on the 
 chart until in mid-channel. They then follow the mainland, coming 
 out in the vicinity of Return Reef. The entrance channel is said to 
 be marked by a pole on the island. 
 
 A shoal area is reported to exist about 25 miles northward of Flax- 
 man Island, but no definite information concerning it is available. 
 
 Simpson Cove lies 20 miles east-southeastward of Flaxman Island. 
 The cove, although restricted, is said to afford good anchorage, 
 available for winter quarters, southward of Collinson Point. A 
 sand spit affords protection from northerly winds and from ice. 
 
 During the summer the Eskimos come down from the interior 
 for trading purposes, and at that season their camps may be expected 
 at Collinson Point and Barter Island. During the winter the region 
 is uninhabited. 
 
 Barter Island lies about 45 miles east-northeastward of Flaxman 
 Island. From Barter Island eastward to Herschel Island the coast, 
 although still low, has deeper water than that to the westward. 
 East of Barter Island the 10-fathom curve is a good depth to follow, 
 while west of the island the depth usually carried is about 7 fathoms. 
 
 Demarcation Point is the northern extremity of the boundary 
 between Alaska and Canada. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A. Page. 
 
 Acheredin Bay 180 
 
 Acheredin Point 180 
 
 Acherk Harbor 189 
 
 Adak Island 220 
 
 Adak Strait 221 
 
 Adugak Island 216 
 
 Afognak Ill 
 
 Afognak Bay 110 
 
 Afognak Island 105,125 
 
 Afognak Strait 112 
 
 Agamgik Bay 207 
 
 Agattu Island 224 
 
 Aghiyuk Island 147 
 
 Agligadak Reefs 218 
 
 Agripina Bay 157 
 
 Aiaktalik Island *138 
 
 AialikBay 72 
 
 AialikCape 72 
 
 Aids to navigation 18 
 
 Aiktak Island 200 
 
 Akhiok 143 
 
 AkunCove 202 
 
 Akun Head 201 
 
 Akun Island 201 
 
 Akun Strait 203 
 
 Akutan Harbor 203 
 
 Akutan Island. 202 
 
 Akutan Pass 204 
 
 Akutan Peak 203 
 
 Alaganik Slough 34 
 
 Alaska Peninsula 147 
 
 Albatross Anchorage.... 166 
 
 Albatross Bank 138 
 
 Aleknaeik Lake 240 
 
 AleksRock 188 
 
 Aleutian Islands 196 
 
 Alexander Island 110 
 
 Alexander Point 163 
 
 Alexandrovsk 88 
 
 Alf Island 134 
 
 Alinchak Bay 156 
 
 AlitakBay 141 
 
 Amagat Island 187 
 
 Amak Island 230 
 
 Amaknak Island 208 
 
 Amalik Bay 155 
 
 Amatignak Island 221 
 
 AmatuliCove 79 
 
 Amchitka Island 222 
 
 American Bay 165 
 
 Amlia Island 218 
 
 AmliaPass 219 
 
 Amook Island 134 
 
 Amugul Bay 207 
 
 Amukta Island 218 
 
 AmuktaPass 218 
 
 Page. 
 
 Ananiuliak Island 216 
 
 Anchor Point 93 
 
 Anchorage Bay 158 
 
 Anchorage P. O 97 
 
 Anderson Rock 188 
 
 Andreafski 273 
 
 Andreanof Islands 218 
 
 Andronica Island 174 
 
 Apoon Pass 273 
 
 Arch Point, Unimak Island 194 
 
 ArchPoint, Volcano Bay 183 
 
 Arctic Ocean 277 
 
 Askinuk Mountains 261,262 
 
 Atka Island 219 
 
 Atkins Island 167 
 
 Atkulik Island 158 
 
 Attu Island 224 
 
 Augustine Island 98 
 
 Augustine Rocks 98 
 
 A vatanak Island 200 
 
 Avatanak Strait 201 
 
 Ayakulik Island 140 
 
 Ayakulik River 140 
 
 B. 
 
 Baby Islands 205 
 
 Baby Pass 205 
 
 Bailey Harbor 186 
 
 Bainbridge Island 67 
 
 Balboa Bay 165 
 
 Bald Head 267 
 
 Bales Landing 164 
 
 Ballast Island 166 
 
 BalukaHill 247 
 
 Ban Island 126 
 
 Baralof Bay 179 
 
 Bare Island 122 
 
 Barnes Cove 63 
 
 Barometer Mountain 115 
 
 Barren Islands 79 
 
 Barter Island 290 
 
 Barwell Island 70 
 
 Battery Point 203 
 
 Bay of Islands 220 
 
 Bay of Isles 57 
 
 Bay of Waterfalls 220 
 
 Bay Point 180 
 
 Beacon Point 249 
 
 Bear Bay '. 183 
 
 Bear Cape 39 
 
 Bear Glacier 70 
 
 Bear Island 132 
 
 Beaver Bay 182 
 
 Beaver Inlet 206 
 
 Becharof 157 
 
 Beechey Point 290 
 
 291 
 
292 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Belkofski 185 
 
 BelkofskiBay 185 
 
 Beluga 104 
 
 Beluga Lake 104 
 
 Beluga River 104 
 
 Bendel Island 170 
 
 Bering 276 
 
 Bering Sea 225 
 
 Besboro Island 267 
 
 Bethel 249 
 
 Beulah Island 265 
 
 Bidarka Point 47 
 
 Big Brother Island - 162 
 
 Big Diomede Island 282 
 
 Big Koniuji Island 168 
 
 Big River 164 
 
 Big Rock 110 
 
 Biorka Island 206 
 
 Bird Island, Ikatan Peninsula 193 
 
 Bird Island, Shumagin Islands 168 
 
 Bird Islet, Chiniak Bay 114 
 
 Bird Reef 88 
 
 Black Cape 126 
 
 Black Point, Norton Sound 267 
 
 Black Point, Sitkalidak Island 138 
 
 Black Reef 99 
 
 Black Rock 245 
 
 Blackstone Bay 53 
 
 Bligh Island 47 
 
 Bligh Island Reef 47 
 
 Blind Breaker 179 
 
 Blossom Shoals 287 
 
 Bluff Point 184 
 
 Bluff P. 269 
 
 Bogoslof 255 
 
 Bogoslof Island 215 
 
 Bolshoi Island 219 
 
 Boulder Bay, Alaska Peninsula 164 
 
 Boulder Bay, Fidalgo Bay 47 
 
 Boulder Point 94 
 
 Bradford Point 240 
 
 Bristol Bay 229 
 
 Broad Bay 210 
 
 Broad Cape 183 
 
 Broken Point 131 
 
 Bruin Bay 98 
 
 BrundageHead 206,208 
 
 Buckland River 283 
 
 Buldir Island 223 
 
 Busby Island 47 
 
 Butte 102 
 
 C. 
 
 Cabin Bay 74 
 
 CainesHead 71 
 
 Cairn Point 96 
 
 Canal Point 272 
 
 Canoe Passage 41 
 
 CapeAklek 157 
 
 Cape Aliaksin 166 
 
 Cape Alitak 142 
 
 Cape Atushagvik 155 
 
 Cape Barnabas 137 
 
 Cape Beaufort 287 
 
 Cape Belkofski 185 
 
 Cape Blossom 283 
 
 Page. 
 
 Cape Bold 186 
 
 Cape Cheerful 208 
 
 CapeChibukak 264 
 
 Cape Chichagof 235 
 
 Cape Chiniak, Kodiak Island 114, 117 
 
 Cape Chiniak, Shelikof Strait 154 
 
 CapeChitnak 264 
 
 Cape Cleare 36 
 
 Cape Constantino 238 
 
 Cape Corwin 258 
 
 Cape Darby 267 
 
 Cape Denbigh 267 
 
 Cape Devine 174 
 
 Cape Douglas 153 
 
 Cape Elizabeth 77 
 
 Cape Espenberg 282 
 
 Cape Etolin 259 
 
 Cape Fairfield 70 
 
 Cape Glazenap 230 
 
 Cape Grant 141 
 
 CapeGreig 235 
 
 Cape Gull 155 
 
 CapeHalkett 290 
 
 Cape Horn 172 
 
 Capeldak 216 
 
 Cap<flkolik 141 
 
 Capelkti 161 
 
 Cape Ilktugitak 155 
 
 Cape Junken 69 
 
 Cape Kagayan 166 
 
 Cape Kalekta 208 
 
 Cape Karluk 136 
 
 Cape Khlebnikof 224 
 
 Cape Kialegak 264 
 
 Cape Kovrizhka 213 
 
 Cape Krusenstern 285 
 
 Cape Kudugnak 219 
 
 Cape Kukuliak 264 
 
 Cape Kuliak 155 
 
 Cape Kuliuk 132 
 
 CapeKutuzof 233 
 
 Cape Lazaref 194 
 
 Cape Lisburne 286 
 
 Cape Lutke 194 
 
 Cape Manning 259 
 
 Cape Mendenhall 258 
 
 Cape Menshikof 234 
 
 Cape Mohican 257 
 
 Cape Mordvinof 230 
 
 Cape Morgan 203 
 
 Cape Newenham 246 
 
 Cape Ninilchik 93 
 
 Cape Nome 274 
 
 CapeNukshak 154 
 
 Cape Pankof 192 
 
 Cape Paramanof 127 
 
 CapePeirce 246 
 
 Cape Prince of Wales 281 
 
 Cape Prince of Wales Shoal 281 
 
 CapePuget 69 
 
 Cape Resurrection 70 
 
 Cape Rodney 274 
 
 Cape Romanzof 261 
 
 CapeSabine 286 
 
 CapeSagak 217 
 
 Cape St. Elias 29 
 
INDEX. 
 
 293 
 
 Page. 
 
 Cape St. Hermogenes 107 
 
 Cape Sarichef. 195 
 
 Cape Sarichef lighthouse 195 
 
 Cape Seniavin 233 
 
 Cape Seppings 285 
 
 Cape Smyth 288 
 
 Cape Stephens 265 
 
 Cape Suckling 28 
 
 CapeSuworof 237 
 
 Cape Swedania 165 
 
 CapeTanak 216 
 
 Cape Thompson 285 
 
 Cape Trinity 138 
 
 CapeUganik 130 
 
 CapeUgat '. 131 
 
 CapeUgyak 154 
 
 Cape Upright 260 
 
 CapeUyak 135 
 
 Cape Vancouver 260 
 
 Cape Yakak 22Q X 
 
 Cape York 276 
 
 Captains Bay 210 
 
 Carlisle Island 217 
 
 Carolyn Island 267 
 
 Carter 248 
 
 Carter Spit 248 
 
 Castle Bay 158 
 
 Castle Cape 158 
 
 Castle Island 215 
 
 Castle Peak 215 
 
 Castle Rock, Kuskokwim Bay 247 
 
 Castle Rock, Shumagin Islands 169 
 
 Cataract Bight 221 
 
 Cathead Bay 63 
 
 Caton Harbor 190 
 
 Caton Island 188 
 
 Caton Shoal 179 
 
 Catons Cove 173 
 
 Cave Point : 229 
 
 Cedar Bay 41 
 
 Chagulak Island 218 
 
 Chagvan Bay 247 
 
 Chagvan Mountain 247 
 
 Chamberlain Bay 51 
 
 Chamisso Anchorage 283 
 
 Chamisso Island 283 
 
 Chankliut Island 160 
 
 Channel Islands 41 
 
 Channel Rock, Knight Island 60 
 
 Channel Rock, Kodiak Island 116 
 
 Chapel Cove 221 
 
 Chapel Roads 221 
 
 Chase Island 63 
 
 Chat Island 72 
 
 Chatham Island 86 
 
 Chenega 59 
 
 Chenega Island 59 
 
 Chernabura Island 168 
 
 Chernof Point 122 
 
 Chernofski Harbor 214 
 
 Chiachi Island. 162 
 
 Chicago Bay 165 
 
 Chichagof Bay 165 
 
 Chichagof Harbor 224 
 
 Chicken Island 66 
 
 Chignik 158 
 
 Page. 
 
 Chignik Bay 157 
 
 Chignik Lagoon 159 
 
 Chiniak Bay 114 
 
 ChinitnaBay 100 
 
 Chinitna Point , 100 
 
 Chips Cove 145 
 
 Chirikof Island 146 
 
 Chisik Island 101 
 
 Chistiakof Island 234 
 
 Chiswell Islands 70 
 
 Choris Peninsula 283 
 
 Chowiet Island 147 
 
 Chugach Islands 76 
 
 Chuginadak Island 217 
 
 Chugul Island 222 
 
 Chuit River 104 
 
 Claim Point 86 
 
 Clam Islands 62 
 
 Clark Bay 164 
 
 Clark Point 240 
 
 Clark Slough 240 
 
 Coal Bay 93 
 
 Coal Cape 162 
 
 Coal Harbor 181 
 
 Coal Point 163 
 
 Cochrane Bay 53 
 
 Coffee Point 240 
 
 Cohen Island 92 
 
 Cold Bay, Alaska Peninsula 187 
 
 Cold Bay, Shelikof Strait 156 
 
 Collinson Point 290 
 
 Colville River 290 
 
 Concord Point 217 
 
 Cone Mountain 248 
 
 Conical Rocks 219 
 
 Constantino Bay 209,212 
 
 Constantino Harbor, Prince William Sound. . 38 
 
 Constantino Harbor, Rat Islands 222 
 
 Contents, table of 5 
 
 Controller Bay 28,30 
 
 Cook Inlet 80 
 
 Cooper Island 224 
 
 Copper River 34 
 
 Cordova 43 
 
 Cormorant Rock 133 
 
 Corwin Rock 217 
 
 Cottonwood Bay 98 
 
 Course Point 119 
 
 Crafton Island 59 
 
 Crooked Island 245 
 
 Cross Island 179 
 
 Crow Point 232 
 
 Crow Reef 232 
 
 Crowley Rock 188 
 
 CulrossBay 53 
 
 Culross Island 53 
 
 Currents: 
 
 Afognak Strait 113 
 
 Apoon Pass..: 274 
 
 Arctic Ocean 280 
 
 Bering Sea 227 
 
 Bogoslof Island 216 
 
 Cape Nome 275 
 
 Chiniak Bay 117 
 
 Chugach Islands 77 
 
 Controller Bay 32 
 
294 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Currents Continued. Page. 
 
 Cook Inlet 27,83 
 
 FidalgoBay 47 
 
 Fox Islands Passes 197 
 
 General Statement 23 
 
 Gorman Strait 174 
 
 Kayak Island 30 
 
 Knight Island Passage 61 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River 249, 250 
 
 KvichakBay 236 
 
 Middletown Island 34 
 
 Narrow Strait 120 
 
 NushagakBay 242 
 
 Orca Inlet 43 
 
 Port Clarence 277 
 
 Prince of Wales Passage 69 
 
 Prince William Sound 35 
 
 St. George Island 255 
 
 Sbelikof Strait. 124 
 
 Sitkinak Strait 139 
 
 Tuxedni Harbor 101 
 
 Unga Strait 182 
 
 ValdezArm 50 
 
 West Nagai Strait 173 
 
 Whale Passage 121 
 
 Yukon Delta ." 262 
 
 CyaneRock 116 
 
 D. 
 
 Danger Bay 109 
 
 Danger Island 66 
 
 Danger Reef Ill 
 
 Dangerous Cape, K odiak Island 137 
 
 Dangerous Cape, Port Graham 88 
 
 Dangerous Passage 59 
 
 Dark Island 125 
 
 Davidof Island 222 
 
 Davidson Bank 188 
 
 DeadmanBay 144 
 
 Deep B ay 207 
 
 Deer Island 186 
 
 Deering 283 
 
 Delarof Harbor 179 
 
 Demarcation Point 290 
 
 Deranof Island 112 
 
 Deranof Rock 112 
 
 Derbin Strait 200 
 
 Devils Prongs 114 
 
 Dillingham 240 
 
 Diomede Islands 282 
 
 Directions: 
 
 AfognakBay Ill 
 
 Afognak Strait 113 
 
 Akutan Pass 204 
 
 AlitakBay 145 
 
 Arch Point to Stag Point 151 
 
 B arren Island s 79 
 
 Cape Ikti to Cape Kalekta 148 
 
 Cape Ikti to Kupreanof Point 149 
 
 Cape Karluk to Cape Alitak 140 
 
 Cape Pankof to Cape Kalekta 152 
 
 Cape St. Elias to Cape Hinchinorook 25 
 
 Caton Harbor 190 
 
 Chignik to Hook Bay 160 
 
 Cold Bay to Chignik 159 
 
 Cook Inlet 85 
 
 Danger Bay 110 
 
 Directions Continued. Page. 
 
 Dolgoi Harbor 184 
 
 Dora Harbor 193 
 
 Drier Bay 63 
 
 Dutch Harbor 211 
 
 East Chugach Island to entrance to Cook 
 
 Inlet 27 
 
 Elrington Passage to Resurrection Bay. . 26 
 
 Elrington Passage to Seal Rocks 26 
 
 Gorman Strait to Unga 150 
 
 Hook Bay to Nakchamik Island 160 
 
 Hiuliuk Harbor 211 
 
 Inside Pearl and Elizabeth Islands 78 
 
 Isanotski Strait to St. Michael 270 
 
 Karluk to Cold Bay 156 
 
 Knight Island Passage 61 
 
 Kodiak to Shelikof Strait 123 
 
 Kupreanof Harbor 149 
 
 Kupreanof Point to Unga Strait 150 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River 251 
 
 KvichakBay 237 
 
 Latouche and Elrington Passages 68 
 
 Lida Anchorage 190 
 
 Nazan Bay 219 
 
 Nushagak Bay and River 243 
 
 Orca Bay 43 
 
 Passage Canal 55 
 
 Point Gore inside East Chugach Island. . 78 
 
 Popof Strait 176 
 
 Port Chatham 87 
 
 Port Clarence 277 
 
 Port Graham 89 
 
 PortValdez 50 
 
 Prince William Sound 25 
 
 Resurrection Bay 71 
 
 St. Paul Harbor 117 
 
 Seal Rocks to East Chugach Island 26 
 
 SeldoviaBay 91 
 
 Stag Point to Cape Pankof 151 
 
 Tuxedni Harbor 101 
 
 UganikBay 132 
 
 Unalaska Bay 211 
 
 Unalga Pass 205 
 
 Unga Strait to Arch Point 150 
 
 UnimakPass 198 
 
 Unimak Pass or Cape Kalekta to Norton 
 
 Sound or Port Clarence 269 
 
 UyakBay 135 
 
 Warner Bay 161 
 
 West Nagai Strait 150 
 
 Yakutat Bay to Kodiak 25 
 
 Disk Island 56 
 
 Doe Point 231 
 
 Dolgoi Cape 184 
 
 Dolgoi Harbor 184 
 
 Dolgoi Island 184 
 
 Dolphin Point 112 
 
 DoraHarbor 193 
 
 Dora Reef 77 
 
 Dorenoi Bay 165 
 
 Doris Bay 159 
 
 Dot Island Ill 
 
 Double Peak 102 
 
 Douglas Reef 153 
 
 Drier Bay 62 
 
 Driftwood Bay 217 
 
 Dry Bay 100 
 
INDEX. 
 
 295 
 
 Page. 
 
 Dry Spruce Bay 122 
 
 Dry Spruce Island 122 
 
 Dublin Bay 229 
 
 Duck Bay 108 
 
 Dutch Group 52 
 
 Dutch Harbor. .. .... 209,211 
 
 E. 
 
 Eagle Harbor, Kodiak Island 137 
 
 Eagle Harbor, Shumagin Islands 172 
 
 Eagle Rock 189 
 
 East Amatuli Island 79 
 
 East Anchor Cove 193 
 
 East Arm 131 
 
 East Bight 171 
 
 East Cape, St. Lawrence Island 263 
 
 EastCape, Siberia 282 
 
 East Cape, Spruce Island 109 
 
 East Chugach Island 76 
 
 East Foreland 94 
 
 East Head, Nagai Island 173 
 
 East Head, Popof Island 178 
 
 East Nagai Strait 169 
 
 East Point, UganikBay 131 
 
 East Point, Unalaska Island 214 
 
 East Twin Bay 53 
 
 Eek Island 249 
 
 Eek River 249 
 
 Egg Island, Alaska Peninsula 163 
 
 Egg Island, Alitak Bay 143 
 
 Egg Island, Norton Sound 266 
 
 Egg Island, Popof Strait 177 
 
 Egg Island, Unalaska Island 206 
 
 Egg Island Passage 206 
 
 Egg Rocks 52 
 
 Eider Point Anchorage '. 210 
 
 Ekuk 239 
 
 Ekuk Bluff 239 
 
 Eldred Passage 92 
 
 Eleanor Island 55 
 
 Elephant Point 165 
 
 Elephant Rock, Unga Island 179 
 
 Elizabeth Island 77 
 
 Ellamar 48 
 
 Elma Island 190 
 
 Elrington Island 67 
 
 Elrington Passage 67 
 
 ElsonBay 289 
 
 English Bay, Hinchinbrook Island 37 
 
 English Bay, Port Graham 88 
 
 English Bay, Unalaska Island 207 
 
 Entrance Island 56 
 
 Entrance Point, Kodiak Island - 119 
 
 Entrance Point, Port Moller 231 
 
 Entry Cove 54 
 
 ErskineBay 207 
 
 Eschscholtz Bay 283 
 
 Eshamy Bay 59 
 
 E sther Island 53 
 
 Esther Rock 53 
 
 EtolinBay 259 
 
 Etolin Point 239 
 
 E tolin Strait 259 
 
 Explorer Mountain 248 
 
 Eyak River 34 
 
 F. Page, 
 
 Fairway Rock 282 
 
 Falls Bay 
 
 Falmouth Harbor 172 
 
 False Bay 221 
 
 False Ugashik 23* 
 
 FidalgoBay 44 
 
 Figure IV Mountain 248 
 
 Final Bay 207 
 
 Fire Island 96 
 
 Fire Peak 215 
 
 FishBay - 4ft 
 
 Fish River 268 
 
 Fisherman Point 208 
 
 Flagstaff Hill 179 
 
 Flat Islet 8? 
 
 Flaxman Island 298 
 
 Flemming Island 69 
 
 Flying Eagle Harbor 168 
 
 Fool Island 52 
 
 Foot Bay 161 
 
 Fort Liscum 50 
 
 Fox Bay, Afognak Strait 112 
 
 Fox Bay, Alaska Peninsula 16* 
 
 Fox Hole 175 
 
 Fox Island 187 
 
 Fox Island Anchorage 18? 
 
 Fox Islands 195 
 
 Fox Islands Passes 197 
 
 Frosty Peak 14? 
 
 Galena Bay 4& 
 
 Gambell 26* 
 
 Garden Cove, Hinchinbrook Island 37 
 
 Garden Cove, St. George Island 254 
 
 Garden Island 37 
 
 Gareloi Island 221 
 
 Gatherer Rock 41 
 
 Geese Islands 1 38 
 
 GerstleBay 230 
 
 Gibbon Anchorage 6* 
 
 Gibson Island 221 
 
 Girdwood % 
 
 Glacier Island 51 
 
 Glory of Russia Cape 26fl 
 
 Gold Creek 49 
 
 Golden 5* 
 
 Golofuin 2f>* 
 
 Golofnin Bay 26? 
 
 Golofnin Sound 268 
 
 Goloi Island 185 
 
 Goodnews Bay 24? 
 
 Goose Bay 95 
 
 Goose Island 45 
 
 Gore Rock 78 
 
 Gorman Strait 1?0, 171 
 
 Granite Cape 7* 
 
 Granite Island 72 
 
 Grantley Harbor. 27* 
 
 Granville Portage 16$ 
 
 Gravina Island 4* 
 
 Gravina Point 4 
 
 Gray Cliff, Cook I n le t 9* 
 
 Gray Cliff, Seldovia Bay m 
 
 Great Sitkin Island 239 
 
 Green Island... 6* 
 
296 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 GrosvoldBay 175 
 
 Grub Gulch 164 
 
 Guillemot Island I. 165 
 
 Gulllsland, Fidalgo Bay 45 
 
 Gull Island, Kachemak Bay 92 
 
 Gull Island, Shelikof Strait 126 
 
 Gulllsland, Unga Strait 180 
 
 Gull Rock... 164 
 
 Hagemeister Island 246 
 
 Hagemeister Strait 246 
 
 Hague Channel 233 
 
 Hair Seal Cape 182 
 
 Halfway Rock 179 
 
 Halibut Bay 141 
 
 Hall Island, Bering Sea 260 
 
 Hall Island, Shumagin Islands 168 
 
 Hallo Bay 154 
 
 Hanin Rocks 114 
 
 Hanks Island 41 
 
 Banning Bay 65 
 
 Harbor Island 72 
 
 Harbor Point 231 
 
 Harriet Point 102 
 
 Harvester Island 132 
 
 Hawkins Island 41 
 
 Hawkins Island Cut-Off 40 
 
 Haystacks, The 173 
 
 Hazen Bay 26 1 
 
 Henderson Island. 175 
 
 HennigRock 188 
 
 Herbert Island 217 
 
 Herendeen Bay 232 
 
 Herendeen Island 167 
 
 Herring Bay 60 
 
 Herring Point 60 
 
 Herschel Island 290 
 
 Hesketh Island 92 
 
 High Bluff 254 
 
 High Hill 216 
 
 High Island, Bristol Bay 245 
 
 High Island, Shumagin Islands 178 
 
 High Rock 144 
 
 Hinchinbrook Entrance 35 
 
 Hinchinbrook Island 35 
 
 Hive Island 70 
 
 Hobo Bay 54 
 
 Hog Island, Afognak Bay m 
 
 Hog Island, Iliuliuk Harbor 210 
 
 Hogan Bay 58 
 
 Hogback 273 
 
 Holiday Island 114 
 
 Homer 92 
 
 Homer Spit 92 
 
 Hook Bay 157 
 
 Hook Point 35 
 
 Hope 96 
 
 Horseshoe Bay 67 
 
 Hothan Inlet 284 
 
 Hotsprings Bay 203 
 
 Humboldt Harbor 177 
 
 Humpback Bay 163 
 
 Humpback Rock 115 
 
 Hutchinson Hill 256 
 
 Hutchinson Reef 116 
 
 Ice: 
 
 I. 
 
 Page. 
 
 AialikBay 73 
 
 ApoonPass 274 
 
 Arctic Ocean 279 
 
 Bering Sea 226 
 
 Cook Inlet 82 
 
 Knight Island Passage 61 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River 250 
 
 Kvichak Bay 236 
 
 Nushagak Bay 242 
 
 Point Barrow 289 
 
 Prince William Sound 36 
 
 St. Michael Bay 266 
 
 Unalaska Bay 210 
 
 Icy Cape 287 
 
 Igushik Ridge 239 
 
 Igushik River 239 
 
 Ikatan Bay 191 
 
 Ikatan Peninsula 192 
 
 Ikatan Point 191 
 
 Iliamna. 98, 237 
 
 Iliamna Bay 98 
 
 Iliamna Lake 237 
 
 Iliamna Volcano 101 
 
 Iliasik Islands 185 
 
 Iliuliuk 210 
 
 Iliuliuk Bay 209 
 
 Iliuliuk Harbor 210 
 
 Iliuliuk Reef 212 
 
 Ilkognak Rock 121 
 
 Imuruk Basin 275 
 
 Inanudak Bay 216 
 
 Indian Creek, Cook Inlet 104 
 
 Indian Creek, Kuskokwim Bay 248 
 
 Ingenstrem Rocks 223 
 
 Ingot Island 56 
 
 Iniskin Bay 99 
 
 Iniskin River 100 
 
 Inmachuk R iver 283 
 
 Inner Iliasik Island 185 
 
 Inner Signal 206 
 
 Irish Co ve 45 
 
 IrishmansHat 213 
 
 Iron Island 222 
 
 Isanotski Peaks 196 
 
 Isanotski Strait 191 
 
 Island Bay 164 
 
 Island of Seven Mountains 222 
 
 Islands of Four Mountains 217 
 
 Islet Point 122 
 
 Ivan Bay 162 
 
 Ivanof Bay 163 
 
 Izembek Bay 230 
 
 IzhutBay 107 
 
 IzhutCape 108 
 
 J. 
 
 Jack Bay 49 
 
 Jacksmith Bay - - 248 
 
 Jackson Cove 51 
 
 Jacob Island 163 
 
 Jagged Mountain 246 
 
 John Island 172 
 
 Johnson Bay, Prince William Sound 60 
 
 Johnsons Bay, Sannak Islands 189 
 
 Johnston Channel 233 
 
INDEX. 
 
 297 
 
 Page. 
 Johnston Hill 235 
 
 Johnstone B ay, Kenai Peninsula 69 
 
 Johnstone Point 39 
 
 Jones Islands 290 
 
 Jude Island... 183 
 
 Kachemak Bay 92 
 
 KafliaBay 155 
 
 Kagamil Island 217 
 
 Kagayan Flats 166 
 
 Kaguyak, Kodiak Island 138 
 
 Kaguyak, Shelikof Strait 154 
 
 Kaguyak Bay, Kodiak Island 138 
 
 Kahsitsnah Bay 92 
 
 Kak Islet 158 
 
 KalektaBay 208 
 
 Kalgin Island 102 
 
 Kaligagan Island 200 
 
 KamishakBay 7 
 
 Kanaga Island 221 
 
 Kanak Island 32 
 
 Karluk 136 
 
 KarlukReef 93 
 
 Karpa Island 175 
 
 Kasatochi Island 220 
 
 KashegaBay 213 
 
 KashvikBay 156 
 
 Kasilof 93 
 
 Kasilof River 93 
 
 Katalla 33 
 
 KatallaBay 32 
 
 Kateekuk Island 147 
 
 KatmaiBay 156 
 
 Katmai River 156 
 
 Kayak 31 
 
 Kayak Entrance 30 
 
 Kayak Island 29 
 
 KellysRock -. 180 
 
 Kelp Point 86 
 
 Kempff Bay 143 
 
 Kenal 93 
 
 Kenai River 93 
 
 Kettle Cape 215 
 
 Khwostof Island 222 
 
 KialagvikBay 157 
 
 Kiktaguk 267 
 
 KiliudaBay 137 
 
 King Cove, Afognak Island 106 
 
 King Island 275 
 
 Kingegan 281 
 
 Kings Cove, Alaska Peninsula 186 
 
 Kirilof Bay 222 
 
 Kiska Harbor 222 
 
 Kiska Island ;.... 222 
 
 Kisselen Bay i>07 
 
 Kitchen Anchorage 185 
 
 Kiukpalik Island 153 
 
 Kiwalik 283 
 
 Kiwalik River 283 
 
 KizhuyakBay 120 
 
 Kizhuyak Point 120 
 
 Knight Island 55 
 
 Knight Island Passage 58 
 
 Knik 97 
 
 KnikArm... 96 
 
 Page. 
 
 Knot Point 42 
 
 Knowles Head 40 
 
 Kobuk River 284 
 
 Kodiak 115 
 
 Kodiak Island 105, 13 
 
 Kogiung 235 
 
 Koniuji Island, Aleutian Islands 220 
 
 Koniuji Islet, Whale Passage 121 
 
 Koniuji Strait 169 
 
 Korovin Bay 220 
 
 Korovin Island 174 
 
 Korovin Strait 175 
 
 Korovin Volcano 219 
 
 Kostromitinof Cape 108 
 
 Kotlik 273 
 
 Kotlik River 273 
 
 Kotzebue Sound 282 
 
 Koyuktolik Bay 87 
 
 Kritskoi 231 
 
 Kudiakof Islands 230 
 
 Kudobin Islands. 230 
 
 Kuiukta Bay : 161 
 
 Kukak Bay 154 
 
 KuliliakBay 214 
 
 Kun River 261 
 
 Kungiugan 168 
 
 Kupreanof Harbor 149,163 
 
 Kupreanof Mountain 123 
 
 Kupreanof Point 164 
 
 Kupreanof Strait 121 
 
 Kusilvak Mountain 262 
 
 Kuskokwak Creek 249 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River 246 
 
 Kustatan River 103 
 
 Kuzitrin River 275 
 
 Kvichak Bay 236 
 
 Kvichak River 237 
 
 KwikluakPass 273 
 
 KwikpakPass 273 
 
 L. 
 
 Ladd 104 
 
 LakeBecharof 235 
 
 Lake Clark 238 
 
 Lamb Island 110 
 
 Landlocked Bay 46 
 
 Lanes Landing 275 
 
 Larsen Bay 133 
 
 Latax Rocks 126 
 
 Latouche 66 
 
 Latouche Island 65 
 
 Latouche Passage 66 
 
 Lava Point 203 
 
 Lazy Bay 142 
 
 Left Hand Bay 166 
 
 Lemesurier Point 29 
 
 Leonard Rock 188 
 
 Lewis River 104 
 
 Lida Anchorage. 190 
 
 Lida Island 190 
 
 Lighthouse Rocks 147 
 
 Lion Reef 290 
 
 Little Bay 61 
 
 Little Brother Island 162 
 
 Little Diomede Island 282 
 
 Little Egg Island 17T 
 
298 
 
 Page. 
 
 Little Harbor 175 
 
 Little Koniujl Island 167 
 
 Little River ;. 131 
 
 Little Sitkin Island 222 
 
 Little Smith Island 52 
 
 Little Susitna River 105 
 
 Lone Island 52 
 
 Lone Rock 70 
 
 Long Beach, Ivan Bay 162 
 
 Long Beach, Pavlof Bay 183 
 
 Long Channel 61 
 
 Long Island 114 
 
 Lookout Hill 164 
 
 Lost Harbor 202 
 
 Louies Corner 164 
 
 Louis Bay 57 
 
 Low Cape 140 
 
 Low Island 120 
 
 Lower Herring Bay 60 
 
 Lower Passage 56 
 
 Lumber Bay , 165 
 
 M. 
 
 McAdooBay 216 
 
 McArthurPass 74 
 
 McArthurReef 222 
 
 McArthur River. 103 
 
 McCulloch Peak 215 
 
 McDonald Bay 224 
 
 McGintys Point 182 
 
 McGrath 249 
 
 Macleod Harbor 65 
 
 Magnet Rock 87 
 
 Main Bay 59 
 
 Makushin Bay 213 
 
 MakushinCape 211,213 
 
 Makushin Volcano 196,206,211 
 
 MalgaBay 205 
 
 MalinaBay 127 
 
 Malina Point 123 
 
 Mallard Bay 63 
 
 Manning Rocks 57 
 
 Marmot Bay 107 
 
 Marmot Cape 107 
 
 Marmot Island 107 
 
 Marmot Strait 106 
 
 Marryat Inlet 285 
 
 Marsha Bay 58 
 
 Martins Islands 33 
 
 Middle Ground Shoal, Orca Bay 40 
 
 Middle Ground Shoal, Cook Inlet 94 
 
 Middle Reef 144 
 
 Middle Rock 49 
 
 Middleton Island 34 
 
 Midway Islands 290 j 
 
 Midway Reef 232 
 
 Miller Point 114 
 
 Mine Harbor 232 
 
 Miners Point 131 
 
 Mist Harbor 171 
 
 Mitrofania 161 
 
 Mitrofania Bay 162 
 
 Mitrofania Island 162 
 
 Mobile Bay 165 
 
 Moffet Point 230 
 
 Montague Island 36 
 
 Page. 
 
 Montague Strait 64 
 
 Moore Channel 289 
 
 Moose Point 95 
 
 Morzhovoi 192 
 
 Morzhovoi Bay 187 
 
 MoserBay 144 
 
 Moses Rocks 182 
 
 Mosquito Bight 37 
 
 Mount Cleveland 217 
 
 Mount Vsevidof 216 
 
 Mountain Cape 171 
 
 Mud Bay 159 
 
 Mummy Bay 61 
 
 Mummy Island 62 
 
 Mumtrak 247 
 
 Murphys Crack 189 
 
 Murre Rocks 168 
 
 N. 
 
 Nachalni Point 122 
 
 Nagahut Rocks 77 
 
 Nagai Island 170 
 
 Nagai Rocks 146 
 
 Nakchamik Island 158 
 
 Naked Island 51 
 
 Naknek River 235 
 
 Narrow Cape 136 
 
 Narrow Strait 119 
 
 Narrows, The, Alitak Bay 145 
 
 Narrows, The, Orca Bay 41 
 
 Nash Harbor 259 
 
 Nateekin Bay 210 
 
 Nazan Bay 219 
 
 Near Island, Kodiak Island 114 
 
 Near Island, Shumagin Islands 170 
 
 Necessity Cove 160 
 
 Needle, The 65 
 
 Nellie Juan Cape 214 
 
 Nelson Island 119 
 
 Nelson Lagoon 230 
 
 New Fort Hamilton 273 
 
 New Year Islands 62 
 
 Newhalen River 238 
 
 Newman Bay 137 
 
 Nichols Hill 238 
 
 Nigger Head 180 
 
 Nikishka 94 
 
 Nikolai River 103 
 
 Nikolski Anchorage 216 
 
 Ninagiak Island 154 
 
 Ninilchik 93 
 
 Noatak River 284 
 
 Noisy Islands 130 
 
 Nome 274 
 
 Nome River 274 
 
 Noon Point 163 
 
 Nord Island 80 
 
 North Anchorage, Pribilof Islands 255 
 
 North Cape, Kodiak Island 109 
 
 North Cape, St . Lawrence Island 2C4 
 
 North Foreland 104 
 
 North Head, Akutan Island 203 
 
 North Head, Unga Island 181 
 
 North Island 42 
 
 North Rock, Orca Inlet 42 
 
 Northeast Arm. . . 131 
 
INDEX. 
 
 299 
 
 Page. 
 
 Northeast Bay 189 
 
 Northeast Bight 171 
 
 Northeast Cape, St. Lawrence Island 263 
 
 Northeast Cove 63 
 
 Northeast Harbor, Kodiak Island 135 
 
 Northeast Harbor, Shumagin Islands 167 
 
 Northeast Point 189 
 
 Northwest Harbor 167 
 
 Norton Bay 267 
 
 Norton Sound 265 
 
 Nubble Point 92 
 
 Nuchek 37 
 
 Nuka Bay 73 
 
 Nuka Island 74 
 
 Nunivak Island 257 
 
 Nushagak 240 
 
 NushagakBay 238 
 
 Nushagak Point 240 
 
 Nushagak River ; 238 
 
 O. 
 
 Observation Island 42 
 
 Observatory Point 214 
 
 Odiak Channel 42 
 
 Oil Bay 100 
 
 Okalee Channel 31 
 
 OkaleeSpit 28 
 
 Old Harbor 138 
 
 Old Man Rocks 206 
 
 OldTyonek 104 
 
 OlgaBay 145 
 
 OneidaRock 188 
 
 Onion Bay 123 
 
 Orca 43 
 
 OrcaBay 40 
 
 Orca Channel 42 
 
 Orca Inlet 42 
 
 Orzenoy 165 
 
 OrzinskiBay 164 
 
 Otmeloi Point 119 
 
 Otter Bay 182 
 
 Otter Cove 194 
 
 Otter Island 255 
 
 Otter Strait 168 
 
 Outer Iliasik Island 185 
 
 Outer Signal 206 
 
 Outlet Cape 123 
 
 P. 
 
 Pacific Shoal 290 
 
 Palisade Bay 74 
 
 Palm Point 33 
 
 Palovina 255 
 
 Pankof Breaker 192 
 
 Par amanof Bay 1 26 
 
 Parrot Islet 109 
 
 Party Cape 125 
 
 Passage Bay 54 
 
 Passage Canal 54 
 
 Passage Island 88 
 
 Pastoliak River 272 
 
 Pastolik River 273 
 
 Paul Island 163 
 
 PavlofBay 183 
 
 Pavlof Coal Bay 182 
 
 Pavlof Harbor... 189 
 
 Page. 
 
 Pavlof Islands 183 
 
 Pavlof Volcano 147 
 
 Peak Island 51 
 
 PeardBay 288 
 
 Pearl Island 77 
 
 Peninsula Island 169 
 
 Penny River 274 
 
 Perevalnie Island 105 
 
 Peril Cape 108 
 
 Perry 163 
 
 Perry Island 53 
 
 Pete LarssenBay 172 
 
 Peterson Bay 190 
 
 Petrel Bank 222 
 
 Petrel Island 163 
 
 Pikmiktalik River 272 
 
 Pillar Cape 107 
 
 Pillar Mountain 115 
 
 Pillars, The 215 
 
 Pilot Harbor 75 
 
 Pilot Rock 70 
 
 Pinnacle Island 260 
 
 Pinnacle Rock 29 
 
 Pinusuk Island 163 
 
 Pirate Cove 178 
 
 Pirate Shake m 
 
 Pisa Tower 224 
 
 Pleiades Islands 61 
 
 Poa Island 202 
 
 Pogromni Volcano 196, 229 
 
 Point Adam 87 
 
 Point Banks 105 
 
 Point Barrow 289 
 
 Point Belcher 288 
 
 Point Bentinck 35 
 
 Point Campbell % 
 
 Point Collie 287 
 
 Point Dexter 267 
 
 Point Divide 231,233 
 
 Point Elrington 67 
 
 Point Fassett 145 
 
 Point Franklin 288 
 
 Point Garnet 28* 
 
 Point Gore 75 
 
 Point Hey 32 
 
 Point Hope 285 
 
 Point Horn 37 
 
 Point Lay 287 
 
 Point Manby 28 
 
 Point Marsh 287 
 
 Point Naskowhak 90 
 
 Point Nowell 59 
 
 Point of Rocks 61 
 
 Point Pigot 54 
 
 Point Possession 95 
 
 Point Romanof 272 
 
 Point Spencer 276 
 
 Point Steele 35 
 
 Pole Island 290 
 
 Pomeroy Island 100 
 
 Poperechnoi Island 184 
 
 PopofHead 176 
 
 Popof Island 175 
 
 Popof Reef 177 
 
 Popof Strait 176 
 
 Popokamute 249 
 
300 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Porcupine Point 45 
 
 Porpoise Harbor 173 
 
 Porpoise Rocks, Hinchinbrook Island ' 37 
 
 Porpoise Rocks, Shumagin Islands 173 
 
 Port Chatham 86 
 
 Port Clarence 276 
 
 Port Dick 76 
 
 Port Etches .- 36 
 
 Port Graham 88 
 
 Port Gravina 40 
 
 PortHeiden 234 
 
 PortHobron 137 
 
 PortMoller 231 
 
 Port Safety 269 
 
 Port Wells 53 
 
 PortWrangell 157 
 
 Portage Bay 157 
 
 Pribilof Islands 254 
 
 Priest Rock 208 
 
 Prince of Wales Passage 68 
 
 Prince William Sound 35 
 
 Princes Head 209 
 
 Princess Rock 190 
 
 Procession Rocks 67 
 
 Prokoda Island 119 
 
 Promontory Cove 194 
 
 Promontory Hill 194 
 
 Prospect Bay 160 
 
 Protection Point 239 
 
 Puffin Islet 283 
 
 Pulpit Rocks 221 
 
 Punuk Islands 263 
 
 Pye Island Reef 73 
 
 Pye Islands 73 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quartz Point 181 
 
 QuinhagakP. O 248 
 
 R. 
 
 Ramsey Bay 164 
 
 Range Island, Popof Island 178 
 
 Range Isle, Prince William Sound 62 
 
 Range Islet, Unga Island 181 
 
 Raspberry Cape 123 
 
 Raspberry Island 127 
 
 Raspberry Strait 127 
 
 Rat Islands 222 
 
 Red Cove 176 
 
 Red Head 40 
 
 Red Mountain 247 
 
 Redoubt Volcano 102 
 
 Reef Island 47 
 
 Reef Point 166 
 
 Refuge Inlet 288 
 
 Renard Island 70 
 
 Resurrection Bay 70 
 
 Return Reef 290 
 
 Ridge Point 203 
 
 Rock Bay, Nuka Bay 74 
 
 Rock Point, Kodiak Island 131 
 
 Rock Point, St. Michael Island 265, 271 
 
 Rocky Bay, Montague Island 39 
 
 Rocky Cove 98 
 
 Rocky Point, Norton Sound 267 
 
 Rocky Point, Unalaska Bay 212 
 
 Rocky Point, Uyak Bay 132 
 
 Rocky Point, Valdez Arm 48 
 
 Rodman Reach : 142 
 
 Rootok Island 201 
 
 Rootok Strait 201 
 
 Ross Cove 161 
 
 Rough Beach 165 
 
 Round Hill 143 
 
 Round Island 245 
 
 Round Top Mountain 196 
 
 Rugged Island 70 
 
 Rukavitsie Cape 194 
 
 Russian Harbor, Kodiak Island 138 
 
 Russian Harbor, Alaska Peninsula 155 
 
 Russian Point 88 
 
 S. 
 
 Saddlers Mistake 172 
 
 Sadie Cove 92 
 
 Sagigik Islet 218 
 
 St. George Island 254 
 
 St. Lawrence Island 263 
 
 St. Matthew Island 259, 260 
 
 St. Michael 266 
 
 St. Michael Canal 265,271 
 
 St. Michael Hill 265 
 
 St. Michael Island 265 
 
 St. Paul Harbor 117 
 
 St. Paul Island 255 
 
 Salamato 94 
 
 Salmo Point 42 
 
 SalmoRock 94 
 
 Samalga Island 217 
 
 San Diego Bay 165 
 
 San Diego Island 165 
 
 Sanborn Harbor 173 
 
 Sand Bay 220 
 
 Sand Islands 261 
 
 Sand Point 177 
 
 Sandman Reefs 185 
 
 Sandy Cove 167 
 
 SankinBay 191 
 
 Sanlcin Island 191 
 
 Sannak Islands 187 
 
 Sannak Mountain 187 
 
 Sarana Bay, Atka Island 220 
 
 Sarana Bay, Attu Island 225 
 
 Sarichef Strait 260 
 
 Sawmill Bay 48 
 
 Scannon Bay 261 
 
 Schooner Rock 38 
 
 Scotch Cap 195 
 
 Scotch Cap lighthouse 195 
 
 Scotland Point 175 
 
 Scotland Rock I7.j 
 
 Scott Island 10'J 
 
 Sea Otter Island 106 
 
 Sea Ranger Reef 3D 
 
 Seahorse Islands 288 
 
 Seal Cape 195 
 
 Seal Island, Prince William Sound 52 
 
 Seal Islands, Bristol Bay 234 
 
 SealRocks, Kodiak Island 141 
 
 Seal Rocks, Prince William Sound 35 
 
 Seal Rocks, Resurrection Bay 70 
 
 SealionRock, Amak Island 230 
 
INDEX. 
 
 301 
 
 Page. 
 
 Sealion Rocks, Marmot Strait 107 
 
 Sealion Rocks, Unga Island 180 
 
 Second Priest 212 
 
 Security Cove 246 
 
 Seguam Island 218 
 
 Seguam Pass 218 
 
 SelawikLake 285 
 
 Seldovia 91 
 
 SeldoviaBay 90 
 
 Seldovia Point 90 
 
 Semichi Islands 223 
 
 Semidi Islands 147 
 
 Semisopochnoi Island 222 
 
 SeredkaBay 202 
 
 Seven Sisters 39 
 
 Seward 71 
 
 Shag Islet 126 
 
 Shag Rocks 121 
 
 ShahafkaCove 113 
 
 Shakmanof Point 120 
 
 Shakun Rock 153 
 
 Shapka Island 163 
 
 Shaw Island 1.52 
 
 Shearwater Bay 137 
 
 Sheep Bay 40 
 
 Sheep Point 41 
 
 Shelikof Strait 124 
 
 Shelter Bay 39 
 
 Shelter Cove 74 
 
 Ship Islet 69 
 
 Ship Rock 215 
 
 Shishaldin Volcano 196,230 
 
 Sbishmaref Inlet 282 
 
 Shoup Bay : 49 
 
 Shoup Glacier 49 
 
 Shumagin Islands 166 
 
 Shuyak Island 10.5,125 
 
 Shuyak Strait 126 
 
 Signals, The 206 
 
 Simeonof Harbor 167 
 
 Simeonof Island 166 
 
 Simpson Bay 41 
 
 Simpson Cov 290 
 
 Sinuk River 274 
 
 Sisters, The 93 
 
 Sitkalidak Island 137 
 
 Sitkalidak Strait 137 
 
 Sitkinak Island 139 
 
 Sitkinak Strait 139 
 
 Skipwith Reefs 110 
 
 Skull Cliff 288 
 
 Sledge Island 275 
 
 Smith Island 52 
 
 Smoky Point 235 
 
 Snag Point 240 
 
 Snake River, Norton Sound 274 
 
 Snake River, Nushagak Bay 239 
 
 Snug Corner Cove 45 
 
 Snug Harbor, Alitak Bay 145 
 
 Snug Harbor Prince William Sound 58 
 
 Solomon 269 
 
 Solomon River 269 
 
 South Arm 131 
 
 South Pass 222 
 
 South Rock 42 
 
 Southeast Cape 264 
 
 Page. 
 
 Southeast Rock 29 
 
 Southwest Cape 264 
 
 Southwest Breaker 28 
 
 Sozavarika Island 187 
 
 Spectacle Island 169 
 
 Sphinx Island 56 
 
 Spike Island 43 
 
 Spitz Island 162 
 
 Spruce Cape 114 
 
 Spruce Island 108 
 
 Squaw Harbor 179 
 
 Squire Island 61 
 
 Squirrel Island 60 
 
 Stag Point 186 
 
 Stebbins 272 
 
 Steep Cape 127 
 
 Stephens Hill 265 
 
 Stephens Pass 265 
 
 StepovakBay 164 
 
 Storey Island 51 
 
 Strait Bay 207 
 
 Strawberry Point 32 
 
 Stripe Rock 109 
 
 Stuart Island 265 
 
 Stuart Mountain 205 
 
 Sud Island 80 
 
 Sugarloaf Island 80 
 
 Sugarloat Mountain 260 
 
 Sukoi Bay 153 
 
 Summer Bay 209 
 
 Sunday Harbor 76 
 
 Sunny Cove 71 
 
 Sunrise 96 
 
 Susitna 105 
 
 Susitna Mountain 105 
 
 Susitna River 104 
 
 Sutwik Island 157 
 
 Sviechinof Harbor 218 
 
 Swanport 49 
 
 SwikshakBay 154 
 
 T. 
 
 Tahoma Reef 223 
 
 Takli Island 156 
 
 Talkeetna River 104 
 
 TanaakCape 127 
 
 Tanadak Island 222 
 
 Tanadak Pass 222 
 
 TanagaBay 221 
 
 Tanaga Island 221 
 
 Tanaga Pass 221 
 
 Tanaskan Bay 207 
 
 Tangent Point 289 
 
 Tangik Island 202 
 
 Tanginak Islet 201 
 
 Tanglefoot Bay 136 
 
 Tanunak 261 
 
 Tatitlek 48 
 
 Tatitlek Narrows 48 
 
 Taylor Bay 76 
 
 Teller 276 
 
 Terror Bay 129 
 
 Theodore River 104 
 
 Thetis Islands 290 
 
 Thin Point 187 
 
 Thomas Rock. . . 122 
 
302 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Three Brothers 120 
 
 Three Saints Bay 138 
 
 Three Star Point 163 
 
 Three-mile Creek 104 
 
 Thumb Cove 71 
 
 Thumb Mountain 248 
 
 Tides: 
 
 Afognak Strait 113 
 
 Apoon Pass 274 
 
 Constantine Harbor 38 
 
 Controller Bay 32 
 
 Cook Inlet 82 
 
 Dutch Harbor 210 
 
 General statement 21 
 
 Herendeen B ay 232 
 
 Isanotski Strait 192 
 
 Kotzebue Sound 283 
 
 Kupreanof Strait 123 
 
 Kuskokwim Bay and River 250 
 
 KvichakBay 236 
 
 MalinaBay 128 
 
 Nunivak Island 259 
 
 NushagakBay 242 
 
 Point Barrow 289 
 
 Port Chatham 87 
 
 Port Clarence 277 
 
 Port Graham 89 
 
 Prince William Sound 36 
 
 Resurrection Bay 71 
 
 8t Lawrence Island 264 
 
 St. Matthew Island 230 
 
 St. Paullsland 257 
 
 SeldoviaBay 91 
 
 Uyak Anchorage 135 
 
 Tigalda Island 200 
 
 Tigara 286 
 
 Tolstoi Point 267 
 
 TonkiBay 106 
 
 TonkiCape 106 
 
 Tooth Mountain 248 
 
 TopkokHead 269 
 
 Traders Cove 192 
 
 Trading Bay 103 
 
 Treeless Islet 109 
 
 Triangle Island 259 
 
 Trinity Islands 139 
 
 Triplets, The 109 
 
 Troitz Island 
 
 Tugidak Island 140 
 
 Tuliumnit Point 158 
 
 Turnagain Arm 95 
 
 Turner Island 170 
 
 Turret Point 220 
 
 Turtle Reef 99 
 
 Tuscarora Rock 212 
 
 TutkaBay 92 
 
 Tuxedni Harbor 101 
 
 Twelve Fathom Strait . 167 
 
 Twin Islands 73 
 
 Twin Peaks 140,143 
 
 Twins, The, Bristol Bay 245 
 
 Twins, The, Shumagin Islands 170 
 
 Two Headed Island 138 
 
 Two Moon Bay 45 
 
 Tyonek 104 
 
 U. 
 
 Page. 
 
 UdagakBay 207 
 
 Udagak Strait 207 
 
 Udamat Bay 207 
 
 UgadagaBay 207 
 
 Ugaguk River 235 
 
 UgakBay 136 
 
 Ugak Island 136 
 
 Ugamak Island 199 
 
 Ugamak Strait 200 
 
 UganikBay 130 
 
 Uganik Passage 129 
 
 Ugashik River 234 
 
 Ukolnoi Island 184 
 
 Ulak Island 220 
 
 Ulaktallead 209 
 
 Uliaga Island 217 
 
 Umga Island 187 
 
 Umnak Bay 216 
 
 Umnak Island 216 
 
 Umnak Pass 215 
 
 Unalaklik 267 
 
 Unalaklik River 267 
 
 Unalaska 210 
 
 UnalaskaBay 203 
 
 Unalaska Island 206,213,214 
 
 UnalgaCove 205 
 
 Unalga Island 205 
 
 Unalga Pass 205 
 
 Unga 179 
 
 Unga Cape 180 
 
 Unga Island 178 
 
 Unga Reef 178 
 
 Unga Strait 181 
 
 UniktaliBay 207 
 
 UnimakBay 194 
 
 Unimak Cove 189 
 
 Unimak Island 194 
 
 Unimak Pass 152 
 
 Upper Passage 56 
 
 UriliaBay 230 
 
 Ursus Cove 98 
 
 Use of charts 9 
 
 Ushagat Island 80 
 
 Ustiugof Shoal 238 
 
 Uyak 133 
 
 Uyak Anchorage 132 
 
 Uyak Bay 132 
 
 Uyak Island 219 
 
 Uzinki 119 
 
 Uzinki Point 119 
 
 V. 
 
 Valdez 50 
 
 Valdez Arm 48 
 
 Valdez Narrows 49 
 
 Veniaminof Volcano 162 
 
 ViekodaBay 128 
 
 Village Islands 131 
 
 Village Reefs Ill 
 
 Virgin Bay 48 
 
 Vodapoini Point 186 
 
 Volcano Bay, Alaska Peninsula 183 
 
 Volcano Bay, Unalaska Island 213 
 
 Vulcan Cove 203 
 
INDEX. 
 
 303 
 
 W. Page. 
 
 Wainwright Inlet 287 
 
 Wales P. O 281 
 
 Walrus Island , Pribilof Islands 255 
 
 Walrus Islands, Bristol Bay..... 245 
 
 Warehouse Bluff 248 
 
 Warehouse Creek ; 249 
 
 Warner Bay 160 
 
 Watch Point 91 
 
 Waterfall Point 164 
 
 Weather: 
 
 Arctic Ocean 280 
 
 Bering Sea 228 
 
 Controller Bay 32 
 
 Cook Inlet 82 
 
 General statement 20 
 
 Kuskokwitn Bay and River 250 
 
 Kvichak Bay 236 
 
 Norton Sound 265 
 
 NushagakBay 241 
 
 Port Clarence 277 ' 
 
 Prihilof Islands 254 
 
 Shelikof Strait 125 
 
 Yukon Delta 262 
 
 Wedge Cape 170 
 
 Weedy Shoals 181 
 
 WesselsReef 34 
 
 West Amatuli Island 79 
 
 West Anchor Cove 193 
 
 West Arm 76 
 
 West Cape 186 
 
 West Foreland 103 
 
 West Head 178 
 
 West Nagai Strait 173 
 
 West Point 249 
 
 West Twin Bay 63 
 
 Page. 
 
 Whale Island, Kodlak Island 109 
 
 Whale Island, Norton Sound 265 
 
 Whale Passage 120 
 
 Whaleback, The 173 
 
 WhalenBay 45 
 
 White Gull Island 98 
 
 Williams Island 210 
 
 Williams Reef 115 
 
 WindboundBay 165 
 
 Windy Bay 161 
 
 Wingham Island 31 
 
 Wislow Island 210 
 
 Wolf Point 230 
 
 Wood River 240 
 
 Wooded Islands 36 
 
 Woodrow 97 
 
 Woodrow Creek 96 
 
 Woody Island 114,115 
 
 Wooly Head 172 
 
 Wosnesenski Island 183 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yentna River 104 
 
 Yukon Delta 262 
 
 Yukon Flats 262 
 
 Yukon Harbor 168 
 
 Yukon Hill 24* 
 
 Yukon Island 92 
 
 Yunaska Island 218 
 
 Z. 
 
 ZacharBay 133 
 
 Zachary Bay 181 
 
 Zaikof Bay 38 
 
 Zaikof Point 36 
 
 Zapadni Bay 254 
 
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 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY