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 GUIDE 
 
 T O T H E 
 
 LAKES.
 
 A 
 
 Guide to the Lakes.- 
 
 DEDICATED TO 
 
 THE LOVERS OF LANDSCAPE STUDIES, 
 
 AND TO 
 
 ALL WHO HAVE VISITED,OR INTEND TO VISIT 
 THE LAKES IN 
 
 CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND. 
 
 AMD 
 
 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 BY THZ AUTHOR OK 
 
 THE ANTIQUITIES OF FURNESS. 
 
 Quis non malarum, quas amor curas habct, 
 Haec inter oblivifcitur? 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for RICHARDSON and Uncivil A x.T 
 
 under the Royal Exchange, 
 and W. FENNINGTON, &ENDAL. 
 
 '778.
 
 U I D 
 
 LAKES. 
 
 SINCE perfons of genius, tafte, and 
 obfervation, began to make the tour of 
 their own country, and give fuch pleafing 
 accounts of the natural hiftory, and impro- 
 ving ftate, of the northern parts of the 
 BRITISH Empire, the curious of all ranks 
 have caught the fpirit of vifiting the fame. 
 
 The tafte for landfcape, as well as for the 
 other objects of the noble art f cherimed un- 
 der the protection of the greateft of kings, 
 and beft of men,) in which the genius of 
 BRITAIN rivals ancient GREECE and ROME, 
 induce many to vifit the lakes of CUMBER- 
 LAND, WESTMORLAND, and LANCASHIRE, 
 there to contemplate, in Alpine fcenery, fini- 
 B fried
 
 2 A GUIDE TO 
 
 fhcd in nature's higheft tints, what refined 
 art labours to imitate; the paftoral and rural 
 landfcape, varied in all the ftiles, the foft, 
 the rude, the romantic, and fublime. Com- 
 binations not found elfewhere afiembled 
 within fo fmall a tract of country. Ano- 
 ther inducement to making the tour of the 
 Jakes, is the goodnefs of the roads; much 
 improved lince Mr. GRAY made his tour 
 in 1765, and Mr. PENNANT his in 1772. 
 The gentlemen of thefe counties have fet 
 a precedent worthy of imitation in the 
 politeft parts of the kingdom, by opening, 
 at private expence, carriage roads, for the 
 cafe and fafety of fuch as vifit the country; 
 and the public roads are properly attended 
 to. If the entertainment be plain, it is 
 accompanied with a propriety of neatncfs, 
 attention, and eafy charge. When the 
 roads are more frequented, the inns may 
 become more elegantly furnifhed, and ex- 
 penfive; but the entertainment muft remain 
 the fame, as the viands at prefent arc 
 not excelled in any other quarter of the 
 empire. 
 
 The defign of the following fheets, is to 
 encourage the tafle of vifiting the lakes, by 
 
 furniming
 
 THELAKES. 3 
 
 furnifhing the traveller with a Guide; and 
 for that purpofe are here collected and laid 
 before him, all the felect ftations, and 
 points of view, noticed by thofe who have 
 made the tour of the lakes, verified by 
 repeated obfcrvations, with remarks on the 
 principal objects as they appear viewed 
 from different ftations-, with fuch incidents 
 as will greatly facilitate, and much heighten 
 the pleafure of the tour, and relieve the 
 traveller from the burthen of dull and tedi- 
 dious information on the road, or at the 
 inn, that frequently embarafles, and ofccn 
 mifguides. 
 
 The local knowledge here communicated, 
 will not affect, much lefs prevent, the 
 agreeable furprife that attends the firft fight 
 of fcencs that furpafs all defcription, and 
 of objects which affect the mind of the 
 fpectator only in the higheft degree. 
 
 Such as wifh to unbend the mind from 
 anxious cares, or fatiguing ftudies, will 
 meet with agreeable diffipation and ufeful 
 relaxation, in making the tour of the lakes. 
 Something new will open itfelf at the turn 
 B 2 of
 
 4 AGUIDETO 
 
 of every mountain, and a fuccefiion of ideas 
 will be fupported by a perpetual change of 
 objects, and difplay of fcenes behind fcenes, 
 in a fucceflion of perpetual variety, and 
 cndlefs prefpeftivc. In the depth of foli- 
 tude may be reviewed, in figure, the hurry 
 and buftle of bufy life, in all its gradations, 
 in the variety of unihadcd lills that hang 
 on the mountains fides, or hafty brooks that 
 warble through the dell, or mighty tor- 
 rents precipitating ihemfdves at once with 
 thundering noife from tremendous rocky 
 heights-, all purfuing one general end, their 
 increafe m the vale, and union in the ocean, 
 The contemplative traveller will be char- 
 med with the fight of the fweet retreats, that 
 he will oblerve in thcfe enchanting i colons 
 of calm repofe. 
 
 Such as fpend their lives in cities, and 
 their time in crowds, will here meet with 
 contrafts that enlarge the mind, by con- 
 templation of fublime objects, and raife it 
 from nature, to nature's firft caufe. Who- 
 ever takes a walk into thefe fcenes, will 
 return penetrated with a fenfe of the crea- 
 tor's power and uniearchablc wifdom, in 
 
 heaping
 
 THELAKES. 5 
 
 heaping mountains upon mountains and 
 enthroning rocks upon recks. Such exhi- 
 bitions of fublime and beautiful objects fur- 
 p.ife and pleafe, exciting at once rapture 
 and reverence. 
 
 When change of air is recommended, 
 and exercife for health; the convalcfcent 
 will find the former here in the purefl Hate, 
 and the latter will be the concomitant of the 
 tour. The many hills and mountains of 
 various heights, leparated by narrow vales, 
 through which the air is agitated, and hurried 
 on, by a multiplicity of brooks, and moun- 
 tain torrents, keep up a conftant circulation. 
 The vales and dales being heated by the 
 reverbt rated folar rays, the air thereby rari- 
 fied, is refrelhed from the tops of the moun- 
 tains. The water is pure as the air, and on 
 that account recommends itfelf to the vale- 
 tudinat ian. 
 
 There is no perfon but may find a motive 
 for vifiting this extraordinary region ; efpe- 
 cially thofe who intend to make the conti- 
 nental tour, mould begin here; as it will 
 give, in miniature, an idea cf what they are 
 to meet with there, in traverfing the ALPS 
 B 3 and
 
 6 A GUIDE TO 
 
 and APENNINES; to which our northern 
 mountains are not inferior in beauty of line, 
 or variety of fummit ; not in number of lakes, 
 diverfity of fi fh, and tranfparency of water; 
 not in colouring of rock, or foftnefs of turf; 
 but in height and extent only. The moun- 
 tains here are all acceflible to the fummit, 
 and furnifh profpects no lefs furprifing, 
 with more variety then the ALPS them- 
 felves. The tops of the higheft ALPS are 
 in acceflible, being covered with ererlafting 
 fnow, which, commencing at regular heights 
 above the cultivated traces, or wooded and 
 verdant fides, form the higheft contraft in 
 nature; with all the variety of climate in 
 one view. To this we oppofe the fight 
 of the ocean from the fummit of all the 
 higher mountains, interfered with promon- 
 tories, interrupted with ifiands, and anima- 
 ted with navigation ; which adds greatly to 
 the beauty and variety of the grand views. 
 
 Thole who have traverfed the ALPS, who 
 have vifited the lake of GENEVA, and view, 
 ed Mount BLANC, the higheft of the GLA- 
 CIERS, from the valley of CHAMOUNI, in 
 SAVOY, may ftill find entertainment in this 
 
 home
 
 THELAKES. 7 
 
 home tour-, where nature, on a reduced 
 fcale, has performed wonders in the epitome 
 of her greater works : The analogy of moun- 
 tainous countries, and their difference, fur- 
 nifhes the obfervant traveller with amufe- 
 ment; and the travelled vifitor of the 
 CUMBRIAN lakes and mountains, will not 
 be difappointed in this particular. 
 
 This Guide will alfo be of ufe to the 
 artift in his choice of ftation, by pointing 
 out the principal objects in a country that 
 abounds in landfcape ftudies, with fuch 
 variety of fcenery. Yet it is not prefumed, 
 dogmatically to direct, but only to fuggcft 
 hints, that may be improved, adopted, or 
 rejected. 
 
 The late Mr. GRAY was a great judge 
 of perfpedive ; yet whoever makes choice of 
 his ftation at the three mile ftonc from 
 LANCASTER, will fail in taking one of the 
 fineft afternoon rural landfcapes in ENG- 
 LAND: The ftation he points out is a quarter 
 of a mile too low, and fomewhat too much 
 to the left. The more advantageous ftation, 
 as I apprehend, is on the fouth fide of the 
 great, or Queen's road, a little higher than 
 B 4 where
 
 8 A G U I D E TO 
 
 where Mr. GRAY ftood ; for there the vale 
 is in full difplay, with a longer reach of the 
 river, and the wheel of LUNE, formed by a 
 high crowned ifthmus, fringed with tall 
 trees, that in times paft was the folitary fite 
 of a hermit. A few trees, by the owner 
 preferved on purpole, conceal the nakednefs 
 of CATON-MOOR on the right, and render 
 the view complete. 
 
 By company from the fouth the lakes 
 may be viiited, beginning with HAWS 
 WATER, and ending with CONISTON or 
 THURSTON WATER, or vice vcrfa. Mr. 
 GRAY b, gan his tour with ULLS WATER, 
 but did not vifit all the lakes. Mr. PEN- 
 NANT proceeded from CONISTON WATER to 
 WINDERMERE, &c. but omitted ULLS and 
 HAWS WATER. Mr. GRAY was too late 
 in the leafon for enjoying the beauties of 
 profpect, and rural landicape, in a moun- 
 tainous country : For in October the dews 
 lie long on the grafs in the morning, and 
 the clouds defcend foon in the evening, and 
 conceal the mountains. Mr. PENNANT was 
 too early in the fpring, when the mountains 
 
 were mantled with fnow, and the dells were 
 
 darkned
 
 THELAKES. 9 
 
 darkened with impenetrable mift; hence his 
 gloomy defcription of the beautiful and 
 romantic vale of ST. JOHM, in his journey 
 from AMBLESIDE to KESWICK. Flora dif- 
 plays few of her charms early In May, in a 
 country that has been chilled by feven 
 winter momhs. 
 
 The bdft feafon for vifiting the lakes to 
 advantage, is from the firft of June to the 
 end of Auguft. During thefe months the 
 mountains are decked in all the trim of 
 fummer vegetation, and the woods and 
 trees, which hang on the mountains lides, 
 and adorn the banks of the lakes, are ro- 
 bed in the variety of foliage, and fummer 
 blooms. In Auguft nature has given her 
 higheft tints to all her colours on the ename- 
 led plain, and borders of the lakes. The 
 ftriking contraft of the rugged cliff, the 
 broken ridge, the overhanging rock, the 
 rent conic fummit, and brown vegetation of 
 the mountains fides, with the beautiful 
 hanging inclofures of fineft verdure, and at 
 their feet ftretched out the frnooth furface 
 of the lake, are feen in high perfection. 
 Thefe are alfo the months favourable to 
 
 botanick
 
 io A GUIDE TO 
 
 botanick fludies ; the rare plants are then 
 to be found; fuch as delight in ALPINE 
 heights, or iuch as are only found in ever 
 fhaded dells, or gloomy vales. 
 
 The author of 'fhe Jix months tour vifi- 
 ted the lakes in the fine feafon, and faw 
 them all except CONISTON and ESTHWAITE, 
 both LANCASHIRE lakes; which are on the 
 weftern fide, and lie parallel to WINDER- 
 MERE. 
 
 Nothing but want of information could 
 have prevented that curious traveller from 
 vifiting the whole range of the lakes; which 
 had he done, and defcribed their fccnery 
 with that accuracy and glow of colour, as 
 he has done the lakes of KESWICK, WIN 
 DERMERE, &c. a copy of that would have 
 been a fufficicnt Guide to all who made the 
 fame tour. 
 
 The author of Vke excursion to the lakes in 
 Weftmorland and Cumberland^ takes no notice 
 of the LANCASHIRE lakes; his principal 
 objects are ULLS WATER, and the lake of 
 KESWICK, whofe beauties he defcribes with 
 
 much
 
 THELAKES. n 
 
 much eloquence and profufion of ftile, inter- 
 fperfed with not a few political and moral 
 reflections-, but at WINDERMERE he vilifies 
 and decries the noble charafteriftic fcenery 
 of the fineftlake in ENGLAND. Of the ifland, 
 fo called by way of preeminence, he is plea- 
 fed to declaim thus, " Upward on the 
 lake we looked on a large ifland of about 
 thirty acres of meagre pafture ground, 
 in an irregular oblong figure; here and 
 there fome mifhapen oak trees bend their 
 crooked branches on the fandy brinks, and 
 one little grove of fycamores Ihelter a cot- 
 tage. The few natural beauties of this 
 ifland arc wounded and diftorted by fome 
 ugly rows of firs fet in right lines, " and 
 then proceeds, in an ungenteel manner, to 
 abufe the owner for want of tafte, in laying 
 it out in gardens and pleafure ground, to 
 fuit a houfe he then propofed, and has fmcc 
 built upon it. This author, however, before 
 he takes leave of the lake, does it the honor 
 of giving one of the firft landfcape painters 
 of his time, CLAUDE LORAINE, and his ge- 
 nius Mr. SMITH, to pencil forth the rich 
 variety of WINDERMERE. Meflrs. YOUNG 
 and PENNANT fpeak of WINDERMERE in 
 
 very
 
 12 AGUIDETO 
 
 very different ftrains. The firft thinks the 
 ifland the fweeteft fpot, and full of the 
 greatefl capabi ities, of any thirty acres of 
 land in the king's dominions-, and Mr. 
 PENNANT ispleafed to fay, " This delicious 
 ifle is bleft with a rich pafturage, is adorn- 
 ed with a pretty grove, and has on it a good 
 houfe. " thofe gentlemen were upon the 
 iQand, and the author of 'The excurjion was 
 not-, and Tbe cxcurfion itfelf, for the rea- 
 fons already affigned, is not a complete 
 Guide to the lakes. 
 
 The courfe of vifiting the lakes from 
 PENRITH, is by BAMPTON to HAWS WA- 
 TER, and from thence to ULLS WATER, 
 and return to PENRITH. Set out for KES- 
 WFCK, feventeen miles good road. Having 
 feen the wonders of KESWICK, and the 
 environs, depart for AMBLESIDE, feventeen 
 miles, excellent mountain road, and affords 
 much entertainment. From AMBLESIDE ride 
 along the fide of WINDERMERE, five miles, 
 to BOWNESS, and, having explored the lake, 
 either return to AMBLESIDE, and from 
 thence to HAWKSHEAD, five miles, or crofs 
 WINDERMERE at the horfe ferry, to HAWKS- 
 
 HIAB
 
 THELAKES. 13 
 
 HEAD, four miles, the road part of the way 
 is along the beautiful banks of ESTHWAITE 
 WATER. From HAWKSHEAD the road is 
 along the fldrts of the FURNESS Apennines, 
 to the head of CONISTON or THURSTON 
 "WATER, three miles, good road. The lake 
 ftretches from the feet of CONISTON fells 
 to the fouth, fix miles. The road is on the 
 eaftern fide along its banks to LOWICK- 
 BRIDGE, from thence to ULVERSTON by 
 PENNY-BRIDGE, fix miles, or by LOWICK- 
 HALLJ good carriage road every where. 
 From ULVERSTON, by DALTON, to the 
 ruins of FLTRNESS ABBY, fix miles. Return 
 to ULVERSTON, from thence to KENDAL, 
 twenty one miles, or to LANCASTER, over 
 the fands, twenty miles. 
 
 This order of maVing the tour of the 
 lakes, is the mod convenient for company 
 coming from the north or over STAINMOOR; 
 but tor fuch company as come to LANCAS- 
 TER it will be more convenient to begin the 
 vi (it with CONISTON lake. By this courlc 
 the lakes lie in an order more pleafmg 
 to the eye, and grateful to the imagina- 
 tion. The change of fcenes is from what 
 
 is
 
 i 4 AGUIDETO 
 
 ,is pleafing, to what is furprifing, from 
 the delicate and elegant touches of CLAUDE 
 to the noble fcenes of POUSSIN, and, from 
 thefe, to the ftupendous romantic ideas of 
 SALVATOR ROSA. 
 
 This Guide mall therefore take up the 
 company at LANCASTER, and attend them in 
 the tour to all the lakes j pointing out, what 
 only can be defcribed, the permanent fea- 
 tures, the vales, the dells, the groves, the 
 hanging woods, the fcattered cots, the fteep 
 mountains, the impending cliff, the bro- 
 ken ridge, &c. The accidental beauties 
 depend upon a variety of incidents, frem 
 light and made, the air, the winds, the 
 clouds, the fituation with refpecl: to objects* 
 and the time of the day. For though the 
 ruling tints be permanent, the green and 
 gold of the meadow and vale, and the 
 brown and purple of the mountain, the fil- 
 ver grey of the rock, and the azure hue of the 
 cloud topt peak, they are frequently varied 
 by an intermixture of reflection from wan- 
 dei ing clouds or other bodies, or a fudden 
 ftreana of funfhine that harmonizes all the 
 parts anew. The pleafure arifing from fuch 
 
 fcenes
 
 THE. LAKES. 15 
 
 fcenes is perional, and heft underftood when 
 received. 
 
 To render the tour more agreeable, the 
 company mould be provided with a tele- 
 fcope, for viewing the fronts and fummits 
 of the inaccefiiblc rocks, and the diftant 
 country, from the -tops of the high moun- 
 tains SKIDDAW and HELVELLYN. 
 
 The landfcape mirror will alfo furnifh 
 much amufement among the mountains. 
 Where the objects are great and near, it 
 removes them to a due diftance, and mews 
 them in the foft colours of nature, and 
 moil regular prefpective the eye can per- 
 ceive, art teach, or fcience demonftrate. 
 
 The mirror is of greateft ufe in fuitfhine, 
 and the perfon ufmg it ought always to 
 turn his back to the object that he views : 
 It mould alfo be fufpended by the up- 
 per part of the cafe, that it may hang 
 perpendicular to the reflected object, and 
 the face be thereby fkreened from the fun: 
 The landfcape will then be feen in the glafs, 
 by holding it a little to the right or left, 
 
 as
 
 16 AGUIDETO 
 
 as the pofition of the parts to be viewed 
 require. A glafs of four inches, or four 
 inches and half diameter, is a fize, though 
 the object be near, that will admit a fit-Id 
 large enough for the eye to take in at one 
 fweep. 
 
 The mirror is a plain convex glafs, and 
 fhould be the fegmtrir of a large circle j 
 otherwife diftant and Imall objeds are not 
 perceived in it; but if the glafs be too fiat, 
 the prefpective view of great and near ob- 
 jects is lefs pleating, by reprefenting them 
 too near. Thefe inconveniences may be pro- 
 vided againft by two glaffcs or different 
 convexity. The glafs with the black toil 
 aniwers well in funlhine; but on cloudy 
 and gloomy days, the filver foil anfwers 
 better. 
 
 %* Whoever ufes fpectacles upon other 
 occafions, muft ufe them in viewing land- 
 fcapes in the glafs. 
 
 LANCASTER
 
 T H E L A K E S. 
 
 LANCASTER. 
 
 THE cattle here is the firft object that 
 attracts the attention of the curious 
 traveller , the elevation of the fite, and mag- 
 nificence of the front, ftrike the imagination 
 with the idea of much ftrength, beauty, and 
 importance , and f uch it has been ever fmee 
 the arrival of the ROMANS inthefe parts. An 
 eminence of fwift defcent that commands the 
 fords of a great tid ing-river, would not be 
 neglected by fo able a general as AGRICOLA ; 
 and accordingly, he occupied the crown of 
 this eminence in the fummer of his fecond 
 campaign, and of the chriftian aera 79 ; and 
 here erected a ftation to fecure his conqueft, 
 and pafies of the river ; whilft he proceeded 
 with the army topafs the bay of MORECAMBE 
 into FURNESS. The ftation was called LON- 
 GOVICUM, and in procefs of time the inha- 
 bitants were calkd LONOVICES, i.e. a people 
 dwelling upon the LON or LUNE. This fta- 
 tion communicated with OVERBOROUGH, by 
 exploratory mounts, fome of them ftill re- 
 mainin-g on the banks of the LUNE ; which 
 anfwered the purpofcs of guarding the fords 
 C of
 
 yg A GUIDE TO 
 
 of the river, overawing the natives, and com- 
 municating with the t\\oftations. That at 
 HALTON, MELEN, and at the eaft end of 
 the bridge of LUNE, are ftill entire. It 
 was connected with the ftation at WATER- 
 CROOK, near KENDAL, by means of the bea- 
 con on WARTON-CRAG, and the caftellum 
 on the fummit of a hill, that rifes immediate- 
 ly over WATERCROOK, at prefent called 
 CASTLE-STEADS. 
 
 The town that AGRICOLA found here, be- 
 longed to the weftcrn BRIGANTES, and in 
 their language was called CAER WEBID, i. e. 
 the green town. The name is ftill retained 
 in that part of the town called GREEN-AER, 
 for GREEN-CAER; the Britilh conftruction, 
 being changed, and WERID tranflated into 
 Englilh. 
 
 The green mount, on which the caftle 
 ftands, appears to be an artefaclum of the 
 KOMANS. In digging into it two years 
 ago, a Roman filver dcnarium was found at 
 a great depth. The eminence has been fur- 
 rounded with a deep moat. The prefent 
 ftructure is generally fuppofed to have been 
 built by EDWARD III. but fome .parts of it 
 
 feem
 
 THE LAKES. 19 
 
 feem to be of a higher date. There are 
 three (liles of architecture very evident in 
 the prelent caftle. i. Round tours, diftant 
 from each other about 26 paces, and joined 
 by a wall, and open gallery. On the weftern. 
 fide, there remain two entire-, and, from their 
 diftance, and the vifible foundations of others, 
 it appears they have been in number feven, 
 and that the form of the caftle was then a 
 polygon. One of thele towers is called 
 ADRIAN'S TOWER, probably from fomething 
 formerly ftanding there dedicated to that 
 emperor. They are two ftages high; the 
 lights are narrow flits-, the hanging gallery 
 is fupported by afingle range of corbels, and 
 the lower ftages communicated by a clofe 
 gallery in the wall. Each ftage was vault- 
 ed with a plain pyramidal vault of great 
 height; thofe in the more fouthern towers 
 are entire, and called JOHN OF GAUNT'S O- 
 VENS; but the calling them fo, is as ridiculous 
 as groundlefs. 
 
 TAILLEBOIS Baron of KENDAL, is thefirfi: 
 after the conqueft, who was honoured with 
 the command of this caftle ; and WILLIAM 
 DE TAILLEBOIS in the reign of HENRY II. 
 obtained leave to take the ftirname of LAN. 
 
 C 2 CASTJR
 
 20 AGUIDETO 
 
 CASTER-, it is therefore probable that the 
 barons of KENDAL either built or repaired the 
 ancient caftle, in which they refided, until they 
 erected upon the fummer fite of the ftation 
 of CONCANGIUM, their caftle at KENDAL; 
 the remains of fome of the baftions there 
 agree in ftile with the towers here. 
 
 2. The fecond deftincl: ftile of building 
 in LANCASTER CASTLE, is a fquare tower of 
 a great height, the lower part of which is of 
 a remote antiquity ; the windows are fmall 
 and round headed, ornamented with plain 
 fhoft pillars on each fide. The upper part 
 of this magnificent tower is a modern repair ; 
 the mafonry fhews it-, and a ftonc in the 
 battlement on the northern fide, infcribed 
 
 E. R. 
 
 1585 RA. 
 
 proves that this repair was made in the time 
 of Queen ELIZABETH. It is pretty evident 
 that two towers, with the rampart, have been 
 removed to give light and air to the lower 
 windows on the ou tilde of the tower; and 
 it is joined by a wall of communication to 
 ADRIAN'S TOWER, that could not be there 
 when the other towers were Handing. There 
 are two leflcr fquare towers on the oppo- 
 fite fide. 
 
 3- The
 
 T H E L A K E S. 2t 
 
 3. The third itile of building is the front 
 and gateway; this may be given to EL- 
 WARD III. or to his fon JOHN OF GAUNT * 
 It fronts to the eaft, and is a magnificent 
 building in the gothic ftilc , it opens wich 
 a noble and lofty pointed arch, defended by 
 over hanging battlements, fupported by a 
 triple range of corbels, cut in form of boul- 
 tins, the intervals pierced for the defcent of 
 mifliles; on each fide, rife two light watch- 
 towers: Immediately over the gate, is an 
 ornamented niche, which probably once 
 contained the figure of the founder. On 
 one fide is ilill to be feen on a fhield, FRANCE 
 quarter'd with ENGLAND ; on the other fide, 
 the fame, with a label ermine of three points, 
 the diftinc~lion of JOHN OF GAUNT, Duke of 
 LANCASTER, fourth fon of EDWARD III. the 
 firil Englifh monarch that quartered FRANCE 
 and ENGLAND on a mield. N. B. It was 
 HENRY V. that reduced the lillies of FRANCE 
 to three. 
 
 On the north fide of the hill, below the 
 church-yard, are fome remains of the wall 
 that encompafled the ftation; it retains part 
 of the ancient name of the place, being cab- 
 led WERY-WALL. Thofe whofe fuppofe 
 C 3 it
 
 12 A GUIDE TO 
 
 it part of the priory-inclofure-wallj that was 
 fituated on the north fide of the church, 
 may be fatisfied by viewing the part of the 
 inclofure-wall yet Handing, a thin moulder- 
 ing: fabric*, whereas the WERY-\VALL, is a 
 o 
 
 cemented mafs, that nothing but great vio- 
 lence can injure. Another fragment of it 
 itands at the ftile on the foot-path, under 
 the weft end ot the'church-yard: It is fre- 
 quently met with in the church-yard, and its 
 direction is to the we (tern fide of the caftle. 
 The father of the late WILLIAM BRADSHAVV, 
 of HALTON, Efq. remembered the WERY- 
 WALL projecting over bridge-lane, pointing 
 dircdtly to the river ; this could never be 
 the direction of the priory-wall. To fay no- 
 thing of the name, which tradition has pre_ 
 ferved, had Mr. PENNANT viewed both, he 
 would not have doubted a moment to join 
 CAMDENagainftLELAND. At BRIDGE-LANE, 
 it makes an angle, and runs along the brow 
 of the hill, behind the houfes, in a line to 
 CHURCH-STREET, which it crbfles about Co- 
 VELL-CROSS; this is attefted by the owners 
 of the gardens, who have met with it in 
 that direction, and always find blue clay un- 
 der the foundation {tones. 
 
 Tho*
 
 THE LAKES. 23 
 
 Tho* this ftation was one of the firft 
 which the ROMANS had in thofe parts, and 
 from its importance, the laft they abandoned ; 
 yet but few Roman-Britifh remains have 
 been difcovered at it. 
 
 The CALEDONIANS, the unconquered ene- 
 mies, and greatefl. plague of the ROMANS in 
 BRITAIN, were particularly galled and offen- 
 ded with the garrifon at LANCASTER, it be- 
 ing always the firft to oppofe them, as often 
 as they invaded the empire, by crofling tiie 
 SOLWAY-FRITH; for having taken the advan- 
 tage of the fpring- tides, and darknefs of the 
 nights, at the change of the moon, they 
 could efcape the garrifon at VIROSIDIUM, 
 ELLENBOROUGH, ARBEIA, and MORESBY; 
 and fkulking along the CUMBERLAND coaft, 
 croffed the MORECAMBE-BAY, and were firft 
 difcovered on the banks of the LUNE. Here 
 they were oppofed by the townfmen, who 
 kept the garrifon, and if they did not imme- 
 diately return by the way they came, the 
 alarm brought upon them the garrifons from 
 
 OVERBOROUGH, WATERCROOK, and AMBLE- 
 SIDE, who furrounded and cut them off. 
 Hence arofe a particular hatred to the 
 LANCASTRIANS, which time and repeated 
 C 4 injuries
 
 24 A GUIDE TO 
 
 injuries fomented into rage. In the end, 
 the barbarous clans, following clofe upon 
 the heels of the flying ROMANS, would in a 
 particular manner fatiate their defire of re- 
 venge upon the helplefs LANCASTRIANS, by 
 facking and deftroying their town and forti- 
 fications, that fuch another at no time might 
 oppofe their invafions. The SAXONS arri- 
 ving foon after, raifed on the ruins, the 
 town that remains to this day. So it may 
 be inferred, that the prefent town of LAN- 
 CASTER ftands on a magazine of Britifh- 
 Roman antiquities. This is verified by dig- 
 ing under any of the ancient houfes, where 
 it appears that the earth has been moved, and 
 Roman remains are frequently found. Be- 
 fide what Dr. LEIGH mentions, there are 
 many recent inftances that proves the con- 
 jecture. 
 
 In the year 1772, in digging a cellar, where 
 an old houie had flood in a ftreet or lane, cal- 
 led PUDDING-LANE, almoft in the centre of 
 the town, was found rcverfed in a bed o 
 fine fand, above five feet under ground, a 
 fquare ftone, of four feet, by two and a half 
 (a foot and two inches being broken of the 
 lower corner on the right hand fide, fo as to 
 
 render
 
 THELAKES. 25 
 
 render the infcription obfcure), the letters 
 elegantly formed, fquare, and about three 
 inches high. The infcription had confided 
 of eight or nine lines, of which fix are en- 
 tire, and of eafy explanation ; the lofs in the 
 feventh is readily fupplied, but the eighth 
 ipuft be made out by the common ilile of 
 fuch % votive ftones. The elegance of the 
 letters pronounce them to be the work of 
 the beft times, but the two fmall letters in 
 the third and fifth line, reduce it to the age 
 of the Emperor GORDIAN ; and if the three 
 fmall letters have been occafioned by the 
 omiflion of the fculptor, then it will be of 
 higher antiquity. It is known by infcrip- 
 tions found at OLENACUM (old CARLISLE,) 
 that the AUGUSTAN wing mentioned in this 
 infcription, was flationed there in the time 
 of GORDIAN; but from this infcription, it 
 feems to have alfo been at LANCASTER. 
 This memorable ftone is now to be leen in 
 the rare collection of ASHTON LEVER Efq; 
 in LEICESTER-HOUSE, LONDON. 
 
 Two years ago, in finking a cellar in an old 
 houfe in CHURCH-STREET, fome cart loads 
 of fragments of Roman earthen-ware were 
 thrown out, urns, patera, &c, many of them 
 
 finely
 
 26 A G U 1 D E T O 
 
 finely glazed, and elegantly marked with 
 emblematic figures; Tome copper coins; and 
 an entire lamp, with a turned up, perforated 
 handle, to hang it by, the nozel of which is 
 black from ufe. At the depth of two yards 
 were alfo found a great number of human 
 bones, fmall and large, with burnt afhes, a 
 wall of great thicknefs, and a well, filled with 
 rubbifli of the fame kind, probably leading 
 to a vault where remains are depofited ; but 
 the curious muft for ever regret, that no 
 further fearch was made. 
 
 What throws new light upon the ftatiorr 
 here, is the late difcovery of a Roman pot- 
 tery by the honourable EDWARD CLIFFORD, 
 in his eftate of QUARMORE, near LANCAS- 
 TER. That the works have been very con- 
 fiderable, may be giiefled, from the fpace 
 difcoloured with broken ware, and the holes 
 from whence the clay has been taken, with 
 the great variety of bricks, tiles, and vefiels 
 that are found; bur the greateft difcovery 
 is, upon a tile with turned-up ledges, im- 
 prefled with a (lamp on each end, ALE SE- 
 BUSIA, a wing of cavalry not heard of before. 
 The fame infcription is found on bricks, the 
 label fmaller, and letters ALA SEBUSIA. 
 
 The
 
 THE LAKES. 27 
 
 The ftiapc of the fecond letter in the firft 
 word, is like that in the infcription on the 
 rock near BRAMPTOMm CUMBERLAND, fup- 
 pofed to be cut in the time of the Emperor 
 SEVERUS A. D. 207, and is the fifth L 
 in HORSLEY'S alphabet. On the brick the 
 letters are fquare, from which may be infcr- 
 ed that this wing was long (tationed at LAN- 
 CASTER. 
 
 This tov/n ever fmce the conqueft, is re- 
 nowned for loyalty and attachment to efta- 
 blifhed government ; for which King JOHN 
 honoured it with as amaple a charter, as 
 he had confered on the burgefles of BRIS- 
 TOL and NORTHAMPTON. CHARLES II. ex- 
 emplified and confirmed the fame, with ad- 
 ditional privileges-, but LANCASTER deri- 
 ved its greateft lufture and importance, from 
 the title it gave to EDMUND, fecond fon of 
 HENRY III. and to his ifiue, Dukes of LAN- 
 CASTER, and Kings of ENGLAND, of the 
 LANCASTRIAN ; line but in the end fuffered 
 much by fupporting their title to the crown, 
 in the conteft with the houfe of YORK. So 
 little had it retrieved itfelf when CAMDEN 
 vifited it, 1609, that he fpeaks of it, as not 
 -populous, and that the inhabitants were all 
 
 hnfbandmen
 
 28 AGUIDETO 
 
 huibandmen. Since that time it is much 
 enlarged , the new houfes are neat and hand- 
 fome, the ftreets well paved, and thronged 
 with inhabitants, bufied in a profperous trade 
 to GUINEA, and the WEST-INDIES. Along 
 a fine quay, noble warehoufes are built ; and 
 when it mail pleafe thofe concerned, to 
 deepen the fhoals in the river, mips of great 
 burthen may come up clofe to the ware- 
 houfes -, at prefcnt, only fuch can come up 
 as do not exceed 250 tons. 
 
 The air of LANCASTER is falubrious, the 
 environs pleafant, the inhabitants wealthy, 
 courteous, hofpitable, and polite. The 
 church is a handfome gothic ftructure; the 
 beautiful eafl window is obftruc~led by a tall 
 fkreen behind the alter, and the church is 
 further hurt by a multiplicity of pews. 
 The only remains of ancient furniture arc 
 a few turn-up feats, carved in the ftile of the 
 times when it belonged to the priory of St. 
 MARTIN of SAVES in FRANCE; fomeof the 
 carvings are fine, but the figures are either 
 grofs or grotefque. It ftands on the crown 
 of an eminence below the caftle, from which 
 it is only feparated by the moat. The views 
 from the church-yard are extenfive and ple- 
 
 fant,
 
 THELAKES. 29 
 
 fant, particularly the grand and much ad- 
 mired proipect of the northern mountains. 
 The new chapel is a neat and more commo- 
 dious place of worfhip. There are alfo in 
 this town, prefbyterian, quaker, and metho- 
 dift meeting houfes, and a Romifh chapel. 
 "When the prefent incommodious bridge was 
 lately repaired, fome brafs pieces of money 
 were found under a foundation flone-, from 
 which, it is conjectured to be of Danifh or- 
 igin. A more ancient bridge flood higher 
 up the river at SKERTON town-end ; a fitu- 
 ation much more convenient, and would 
 make a fine enterance, which LANCASTER is 
 defective in. 
 
 Before you leave LANCASTER, take a ride 
 to the three mile-ftone, on the road to 
 HORNBY, and have Mr. GRAY'S moft no- 
 ble view of the vale of LONSDALE, which 
 he, or his editor defcribes in thefe words* 
 i-n the note, page 373. " This fcene opens 
 juft three miles from LANCASTER, on what 
 is called the Queen's road. To fee the 
 view in perfection you muft go into a field 
 on the left. Her^ TNGLEBOROUGH, be- 
 hind a variety of lefier mountains, makes 
 the back-ground of the profpedt; on each 
 
 hand
 
 3 o A G U I D E T O 
 
 hand of the middle diftance, rife two Hoping 
 hills, the left cloathed with thick wood, the 
 right with variegated rock and herbage. 
 Between them, in the rieheft of vallies, the 
 LUNE ferpentizes for . many a mile, and 
 comes forth ample and clear through a well- 
 wooded and richly paftured foreground. 
 Every feature which conftitutes a perfect 
 iandfcape of the extenfive fort, is here not 
 only boldly marked, but alfo in its belt 
 pofition. " 
 
 From LANCASTER to HEST-BANK, four 
 miles, fet out with the ULVERSTONE carriers 
 at the dated hour, or take a guide for the 
 fands, called LANCASTER SANDS, nine miles 
 over. On a fine day there is not a more 
 pleafant fea fide ride in the kingdom. On 
 the right, a bold more, deep indented in 
 fome places, and opening into bays in others; 
 valleys open to the view that ftretch far into 
 the country, bounded on each fide by hang- 
 ing grounds, cut into inclolures, interfperfed 
 with groves and hanging woods, adorned 
 with fequeftercd cots, farms, villages, 
 churches, and caftles-, mountains behind 
 mountains, and others juft feen over them, 
 clofe the fore fcenc. CLAUDE has not intro- 
 duced
 
 THE LAKES. 31 
 
 duced SORACTE on the TYBER in a more 
 happy point of view, than INGLEEOROUGH 
 appearing during the courfe of this ride. At 
 entering on the fands, to the left, HESHAM 
 point rifes abruptly, and the village hangs 
 on it's fide in a beautiful manner. Over a 
 vaft extent of fands, fee PEEL-CASTLE, the 
 ancient bulwark of the bay, rears its vene- 
 rable head above the tide. In front appears 
 a finefweep of country, doping tothe fouth- 
 On the right WAR TON-CRAG prefents hie if 
 in a bold ftile; on its arched fummit are 
 trie viftages of a fquare encampment, and 
 the ruins of a beacon. Grounds bearing 
 from the eye, variegated in every plealing 
 form, by woods, variety of paflu red grounds, 
 and rock, for many a mile are terminated 
 by cloud-topt INGLEBOROUGH. A little fur- 
 ther on to the right, another vale opens to 
 the fands, and mews a broken ridge of rocks, 
 and beyond them are feen groups of moun- 
 tains towering to the fky. CALTLE-STEADS, 
 a pyramidal hill, that rifes above the ftation 
 at KENADL., is now in fight. At the bottom 
 of the bay ftands ARNESIDE ancient Tower, 
 once a manfion cf the STANLEYS. The 
 CARTMEL coaft, as you advance, becomes 
 more pleafing. Betwixt thai and SILVER- 
 DALE
 
 5 2 A GUIDE TO 
 
 DALE NAB, a pyramidal mountain of naked 
 grey rock, is a great break in the coaft, and 
 through it the river KENT rolls its waters to 
 join the tide. In the mouth of the eftuary 
 are two beautiful conical Iflcs, cloathed in 
 wood and fweet verdure: As you advance 
 towards them, they feem to change their 
 iituation, and vary their appearance. At 
 the fame time a grand view opens of the 
 WESTMORLAND mountains, tumbled about 
 in a moft furprifmg manner. At the head 
 of the eaftuary, under a beautiful green hill* 
 HEVERSHAM village and church appear in 
 fine prefpeclive. To the north WHITBARROW 
 SCAR, a huge arched and bended cliff, of 
 an immence height, ftievvs a ftorm-beaten 
 front. The intermediate fpace is a mixture 
 of rocks, and woods, and cukjvated patches* 
 that form a romantic view. As you ap-. 
 proach, a guide on horfe back, called the 
 carter, is in waiting, to conduct paflcngers 
 over the ford. The priory of CAR TM EL was 
 charged with this important office, and had 
 fynodal and peterpence allowed towards the 
 maintainan.ee of the guide. Since the dif- 
 folution of the priory, it is held by patent 
 of the dutchy of LANCASTER, and the falary 
 twenty pounds per arm. is paid by the recei- 
 ver general. CARTMEL
 
 THELAKES. 33 
 
 CARTMEL is a fmall diftricl belonging to 
 LANCASHIRE, but united to WESTMORLAND 
 a little below BOWNESS, on WINBVRMERE, 
 and from thence extends itfelf betwixt the ri- 
 vers LEVEN and KENT, interfc&ing the great 
 bay of MORECAMBE. It is three miles acrofs 
 from CAR K-LANE, where you quit the fands to 
 SAND-YET. Pafs through FLOOKBOROUGH, 
 once a market-town, by charter granted to the 
 prior of CARTMEL, lord paramount, from 
 King EDWARD I. The only thing worthy of 
 notice, is the church of CARTMEL, a hand- 
 fome gothic edifice. The eail window is 
 finely ribbed with pointed arches, light and 
 elegant; the painted glafs isalmoft defaced. 
 The prefervation of this edifice reflects ho- 
 nour on the memory of GEORGE PRESTON, 
 of HOLKER Efq; who, at his own expence 
 new roofed the whole, and decorated the 
 infide with a ftucco ceiling; the choir and 
 chancel he alib repaired, fuiting the new 
 parts to the anc ; ent remains of the canons 
 feats, thereby preferving the ancient form 
 entire. Perfons uninformed of this, al- 
 ways take it to be the fame it was before 
 the diffolution. The ftile of the building, 
 like moft of its cotemporaries, is irregular. 
 The pointed and round arch is contrafted, 
 D and
 
 34 AGUIDETO 
 
 and the fine cluttered pillar faces the heavy 
 octagonal. The form is a crofs, in length 
 1 57 feet; the tranfept no feet; the height 
 of the walls 57 feet. The tower on the 
 centre is a fingular conftruction, being a 
 fquare within a fquare, the higher fet at 
 crofs angles within the lower : This gives 
 it an odd appearance on all fides, but may 
 have fome reference to the octagonal pillars 
 in the church, and both to the memory of 
 fomething now forgotten. It was built and 
 endowed with the manor of CARTMEL by 
 WILLIAM MARISCAL, the elder, Earl of PEM- 
 BROKE, in 1 1 88, according to fome; but as 
 in the foundation deed mention is made of 
 HENRY!!. RICHARD, and HENRY the younger, 
 his lord the King, it appears rather to have 
 been founded in the beginning of that reign; 
 for WILLIAM the elder, Earl of PEMBROKE, 
 died in the fourth or fifth year of that reign, 
 viz. HENRY III. He gave it to the canons 
 regular of St. AUSTIN, referving to himfelf 
 and his heirs the right of granting to them 
 the conge deflire of a prior, who mould be 
 independent of all others, and never to be 
 erected into an abbey. Under the north 
 wall, a little below the altar, is the tomb- 
 _ ftone of WILLIAM DE WALTON, prior of 
 
 CARTMEL
 
 THELAKES. 35 
 
 CARTMEL : He is mentioned in the confir- 
 mation diploma of EDWARD II. and muft 
 have been one of the firfl priors. Oppofite 
 to this is a magnificent tomb of a HARRING- 
 TON, and his lady, which MP. PENNANT 
 thinks may be of Sir JOHN HARRINGTON, 
 who in 1305 was lummoned by EDWARD I* 
 " with numbers of other gallant gentlemen 
 to meet him at CARLISLE, and attend him 
 on his expedition into SCOTLAND^" but it 
 agrees better with a JOHN DE HARRINGTON, 
 called JOHN of CARTMEL, or his fon of 
 WRASHAM TOWER, in CARTMEL, as Sir 
 DANIEL FLEMING'S account of that family 
 has it, M. S. L. A. i. 132. The head of 
 the HARRINGTON family, Sir JOHN HAR- 
 RINGTON, in the reign of EDWARD I. was of 
 ALDINGHAM, and lived at GLEASTON CASTLE 
 in FURNESS, and died in an advanced age, 
 i34~i and is more probably the Sir JOHN 
 HARRINGTON mentioned in DUGDALE'S ba- 
 ronage, and fummoned by EDWARD 1. There 
 is not one veftige of the monaftry remaining. 
 There is a gate houle, but whether this was 
 connected with the cloifters or not, tradition 
 is filent, and the diftancc from the church 
 is unfavourable to the conjecture. 
 
 D 2 Proceed
 
 36 AGUIDETO 
 
 Proceed through rocky fields and groves 
 to HOLKE&, one mile, the feat of the right 
 honourable Lord GEORGE CAVENDISH-, the 
 carriage road is by CARK-HALL. At the top 
 of the hill, there opensa fine view of FURNESS. 
 HOLKER-HALL lies at your feet,embofomed 
 in wood-, on the left ULVERSTON bay opens 
 into the great bay, and is four miles over. 
 The coaft is deeply indented, and the penin- 
 fulas are beautifully fringed with wood. 
 On the right, a bold bending rock prefents, 
 a noble arched forehead, and a fine (lope of 
 incloicd grounds, mixed with wood, leads 
 the eye to ULVERSTON, the port and mart 
 of FURNESS. CONISHEAD fhews its pyrami- 
 dal head, completely clothed in wood; at 
 its feet the priory, mielded by a wing of 
 hanging wood, that climbs up the fide of a 
 fleep hill. BARDSEY, under its rocks and 
 hanging woods, (lands in a delightful 
 point of view, in .front a fweet fall of inclo- 
 fures, marked with clumps of trees and 
 hedge rows, gives it a mod picturefque ap- 
 pearance. A white houfe on the fea bank, 
 under the cover of a deep wood, has a mod 
 inchanung appearance. The coaft from that 
 is of fingular beauty, of hanging woods, in- 
 clofed land, and paflure grounds, varied in 
 
 every
 
 THELAKES. 37 
 
 every pleafing form-, and where an exten- 
 five view can charm, this mufl. Defcend to 
 HOLKER, which adds to the fcenes what is 
 peculiar to itfelf, with the improvements of 
 the noble owner, finiihed in a mafterly ftile. 
 The traveller will here obfervc husbandry 
 in a more flouriihing way then in the coun- 
 try he is foon to vifit. The farmers here, 
 as elfewhere, are flow in imitating new prac- 
 tices^ but the continued fuccefs which attends 
 his lordfnip's improvements has not failed 
 in effecting a reformation amongft the CART- 
 MEL farmers. 
 
 In crofling LEVEN-SANDS to ULVERSTON, 
 you have on the right, a grand view of Alpine 
 fcenery. A rocky hill, patched with wood 
 and heath, rifmg immediately from the coaft, 
 directs the eye to an immenfe chain of lofty 
 mountains, increafed in magnitude and 
 height, fmce they were feen from HEST- 
 BANK. On a fine morning, this is a plea- 
 fant ride-, when the mountains are ftrongly 
 illuminated by the fun-beams, and patched 
 with Ihadows of intervening clouds that fail 
 along their fides, or over their fummits drag 
 their watery fkirts, through which the fun- 
 beams ftreaming, gild their rocky heads 
 D 3 with
 
 3 8 AGUIDETO 
 
 with filver, and variegate their olive colour- 
 ed fides with ftripes of gold and green. 
 This fairy fcene foon fhifting, all is con- 
 cealed in a mantle of azure mill. At the 
 eya, or ford of the river LEVEN, another car- 
 ter conducts you over. On the diflblution 
 of the priory of CONISHEAD, King HEN- 
 RY VIII. charged himfelf and fucceffors 
 with the payment, which the guide received 
 from the priory, fifteen marks per ann. and 
 the office is held, and the falary is paid as 
 to the other carter. 
 
 ULVERSTON, the LONDON of FURNESS, is 
 a neat town, at the foot of a fwift defcent to 
 the fouth-eaft; the ftrects regular, and ex- 
 cellently well paved. The weekly market 
 for LOW-FURNESS has been long eftablifhed 
 here, to the prejudice of DALTON, the an- 
 cient capital of FURNESS. The articles of ex- 
 port are, iron ore in great quantites, pig 
 and bar iron, oats, barley, beans, potatoes, 
 bark, and limeftone. The principal inns 
 are kept by the guides, who pals to and from 
 LANCASTER, on funday, tuefday, and friday, 
 in every week. The entertainment is good, 
 the attendance civil, and charge reafonable. 
 
 Make
 
 THELAKES. 39 
 
 Make an excurfion to the weft, three 
 miles, and vifit the greateft iron mines in 
 ENGLAND. At WHITRIGS the works are car- 
 ried on with much fpirit, by driving of le- 
 vels into the bofom of the mountain. The 
 ore is found in a Hmeftone ftratum, mixed 
 with a variety of fpars of a dirty colour. 
 There is much quartz in fome of the works 
 that admits of a high polifh. At prefent 
 the ttorks in STONE-CLOSE and ADGARLY 
 are the moft flouriming that have been 
 known in FURNESS. The mineral is not 
 hurtful to animal or vegetable j the verdure 
 is remarkably fine about the workings -, and 
 no one ever fuffered by drinking the water 
 in the mines, though difcoloured and much 
 impregnated with the ore. By DALTON to 
 the magnificent ruins of FURNESS ABBEY, 
 and there 
 
 " See the wild wafte of all devouring years, 
 Hew ROME her awn fad fepulchre appears, 
 With nodding arches, broken temples fpread, 
 The very tombs now vanifh like the dead. " 
 
 This abbey was founded by STEPHEN 
 Earl of MORTON and BULLOIGN, afterwards 
 King of ENGLAND, A. D. 1127, and was 
 endowed with the lordfhip of FURNESS, and 
 many royal privileges. It was peopled from 
 D 4 the
 
 40 AGUIDETO 
 
 the monaftry of SAVIGNY, in NORMANDY, 
 and dedicated to St. MARY. In ancient 
 writings it is filled St. MAYRE'S of FUR- 
 NESS. The monks were of the order of 
 SAVIGNY, and their drefs was grey cloth; 
 but on receiving St. BERNARD'S form, they 
 changed from .grey to white, and became 
 CISTERCIANS; and fuch they remained till 
 the duTolution of monaftcries. 
 
 The fituation of this abbey, fo favourable 
 to contemplative life, jultifies the choice of 
 the firft fettlers. Such a fequeftered fite, 
 in the bottom of a deep dell, through which 
 a hafty brook rolls its murmuring ftream, 
 and along which the roaring weft wind, 
 joined with the deep-toned mattin fong, 
 muft have been favourable to the folcmn 
 melancholy of monadic life. 
 
 To prevent furprife, and call in afiiftance, 
 a beacon was placed on the crown of the 
 eminence, that rifes immediately from the 
 abbey, and is feen over all Low FURNESS. 
 The door leading to the beacon is ftidl re- 
 maining in the inclofore wall, on the eaflern 
 fide. The magnitude of the abbey may be 
 known from the dirnenfions of the ruins; 
 
 and
 
 THELAKE3. 4 i 
 
 and enough is {landing to ftiew the ftile of 
 the architecture. The round and pointed 
 arches occur in doors and windows j the 
 fine cluttered gothic, and the heavy plain 
 Saxon pillars, Hand contrafted. The walls 
 Ihew excellent mafonry, in many places 
 counter-arched, and the ruins a ftrong ce- 
 ment. The eaft window ha been noble, 
 and fome of the painted glafs that once a- 
 doroed it, is preferved in a window in WIN- 
 DERMERE church. On the oudide of the 
 window under an arched feiloon, is the head 
 of the founder, and oppofite to it, that of 
 MAUD his Queen -, both crowned, and well 
 executed. In the ibuth wall and eaft end 
 of the church, are four feats, adorned with 
 gothic ornaments ; in thefe the officiating 
 prieft, with his attendants, fat at intervals, 
 during the iokmn fervice of high mafs. In 
 the middle fpace lies a procumbent figure ot 
 a man in armour, crois legged, in the place 
 where the firft barons of KENDAL lie inter- 
 red. The chapter houfe has been a noble 
 room of fixty feet by forty five. The vaul- 
 ted roof, formed of twelve ribbed arches, 
 was fupported by fix pillars in two rows, at 
 thirteen -feet diftance from each other, and 
 the fide walls ; fuppofing each pillar two 
 
 feet
 
 4 2 A G U I D E T O 
 
 feet diameter, which divided the room into 
 three alleys or pafiages of thirteen feet wide. 
 At the enterance, the middle only could be 
 feen, lighted by a pair of tall pointed win- 
 dows at the upper end of the room-, the 
 company in the fide pafiage would be con- 
 cealed by the pillars, and the vaulted roof, 
 that groined from thofe pillars, would have 
 a true gothic difproportioned appearance, of 
 fixty feet, by thirteen. The two fide alleys 
 were lighted each by a pair of fimilar lights 
 befides a pair on each fide at the upper end, 
 at prefent entire, and illuftrate what is here 
 faid. Thus whilft the upper end of the 
 room had a profufion of light, the lower end 
 would be in the fhade. The noble roof of 
 this fingular edifice did but lately fall in-, 
 the entrance or porch is flill up, a fine cir- 
 cular arch, beautified with a deep cornim, 
 as alfo a portico on each fide. The only 
 entire roof now Handing is of a building 
 without the inclofure wall. It was the 
 fchool-houfe for the children of the abbot's 
 tenants, and is a fingle ribbed arch, that 
 groins from the walls. 
 
 There is a general difproportion remark- 
 able' in gothic churches, which muft have 
 
 origi-
 
 THE LAKES. 43 
 
 originated in fome effect intended by all the 
 architects-, perhaps to ftrike the mind with 
 reverential awe at the fight of magnificence, 
 arifing from the vaftnels of two dimenfions, 
 the third feemingly difregarded; or perhaps 
 fuch proportion of height and length was 
 found more favourable than any other to the 
 church fong, by giving a deeper fwell to the 
 choir of chaunting monks. A remarkable 
 deformity in this edifice, and for which there 
 is no apparent reafon, or neceffity, is, that 
 the north door, which is the principal en- 
 terance, is on one fide of the window over it. 
 The tower has been fupported by four mag- 
 nificent arches, of which only one remains 
 entire, they refted upon four tall pillars, 
 three are finely cluftered, the fourth is of a 
 plain unmeaning conftruction. 
 
 From the abbey, if on horfe-back, return 
 byNEWTON, STAINTON, and ADGARLY. See 
 on the right a deep embayed coaft, the iflands 
 of WALNEY, FOULNEY, and PEEL-CASTLE-, 
 a variety of extenfive views on all fides. At 
 ADGARLY the new works are carried on under 
 the old workings ; the richeft iron ore is found 
 here in immenfe quantities; one hundred 
 and forty tons have been raifed at one lhaft 
 
 in
 
 44 A G U 1 D E T O 
 
 in twenty four hours. To the right have a 
 V'ICAV of the ruins of GLEASTON-CASTLE, the 
 feat of the FLEMINC-S foon after the con- 
 queft; and by a fuccefiion of manages, it 
 went to CANSFIELD, then to HARRINGTON, 
 who enjoyed it fix deicents, after that to 
 BOKVILLE, and lallly to GRAY, and was for- 
 feited by HENRY GRAY Duke of SUFFOLK, 
 A. D. 1559. Leaving URSWICK. behind, af- 
 cend BIRTCRIG, a rocky -eminence, and from 
 the beacon have a variety -of extenfive and 
 plcafant views, of dand and fea, mountains 
 and iflands. ULVERSTON appears feated 
 under a hanging wood, and behind that 
 FURNESS-FELLS, in various fnapes, form the 
 grandeft fore-ground that can be knagined. 
 The back view is tfec reverfe , when the tide 
 is up, a fine arm of the fea ftretching far 
 within land, terminated by bold rocks and 
 fceep fhores-, acrofe this cxpanfe of lea a 
 far country is feen, and LANCASTER town 
 and caftle is perceived in a fine point -under 
 a Fcreen of high grounds, over which fable 
 GLOU-GTIA Tears his venerable head. INGI/E- 
 BORotrcH, behind many other mountains, has 
 a fine tffeft from this ilation. If in a car- 
 riage, return from the abbey by DALTON. 
 This village isfweetly fituated on rhe creft of 
 
 a rocky
 
 THELAKES. 45 
 
 a rocky eminence, (loping to the morning iun. 
 upper-end is 'a fquare tower, where formerly 
 the abbot held his fecular court, and fecured 
 his prifoners; the keep is in the bottom of 
 the tower, a difmal dungeon. This village, 
 being conveniently fituatcd in a fine fporting 
 country, is honoured with an annual hunt, 
 begun by the late Lord STRANGE, and is 
 continued by his fon, the truly noble Earl of 
 DERBY. It commences the nionday after 
 the 24th of October, and continues two 
 whole weeks. For the better accommo- 
 dation of the company, two excellent long 
 rooms were built about four years ago, and 
 called SPORTSMAN'S-HALL. Return to UL- 
 VERSTON and from thence to the priory of 
 CONISHEAD, the paradife of FURNESS, a 
 MOUNT-EDGCUMBE in miniature ; it wellde- 
 ferves a vifit from the curious traveller. 
 The houfe ftands on the fite of the priory 
 of CONISHEAD, at the foot of a fine emi- 
 nence, and the ground falls gently from it 
 on all fides; the flopes are planted with 
 fhrubs and trees in fuch a. manner as improve 
 the elevation ; and the waving woods that 
 fly from it on each wing give an airy and 
 noble appearance. The fouth front is in 
 the modern tafte, extended by an arcade , the 
 
 north.
 
 4 6 AGUIDETO 
 
 north is in the gothic ftile,with a piazza-, th e 
 offices on this fide form wings. The ap- 
 partme'nts are elegantly f urn ifhed; and the 
 houfe is a good and convenient one : But 
 what recommends itielf moft to the curious' 
 is a plan of pleafure ground, on a fmall fcale, 
 raifed by improvement, to equal one of the 
 greateft in ENGLAND. The variety of cul- 
 minated grounds, and winding flopes, com- 
 prehended within thisfweet fpot, furmfhes all 
 the advantage of mountains and vales, woods 
 and water. By the judicious management 
 of thefe afiemblages, the late owner did work 
 wonders , and by well confulting the genius 
 of the place called in to aid his plan, 
 and harmonized the features of a country 
 vaft in extent, and by nature highly pic~Vu- 
 refque, whofe diftant parts anfwering, form a 
 magnificent whole. Befides the ornamental 
 grounds, the views from the houfe are both 
 
 D f 
 
 pleafing and furprifing, paftoral, rural, and 
 marine. On one hand a fine efluary, fpot- 
 ted with rocks, iiles, and peninfulas, a vari- 
 ety of more, deeply indented in fome places, 
 in others compofed of noble arched rocki, 
 craggy, broken, and fringed with wood; o- 
 vcr thefe hanging woods, intermixed with 
 cultivated inclofurcs 3 covered with a back 
 
 ground
 
 T H E L A K E S. 47 
 
 ground of ilupendious mountains. The 
 contrail of this view, at the other end of the 
 gravel walk, between two culminating hills 
 covered with tall wood, is feen, in fine per- 
 fpe&ive, a rich cultivated dale, divided by- 
 hedgerow trees, beyond thefe hanging grounds 
 cut into inclofures, with fcattered farms -, a- 
 bove all, a long range of waving pafture 
 ground and Iheep walks, mining in variety 
 of vegetation. This fweet paftoral picture 
 is heightened much by the deep made of the 
 towering wooded hills, between which it is 
 viewed. Turn to the left, the fcenery is all 
 reverfed. Under a range of tall fycamores, 
 an expanfe of water burfts upon the eye, and 
 beyond it, land juftvifible through the azure 
 mift. VeiTels traverfing this bay are feen in 
 a mod piclurefque manner, and from the 
 lower windows, appear failing through the 
 trees, and approaching the houfe, till they 
 drop anchor juft under the windows. The 
 range of fycamores has a fine effect in this 
 fea view, by breaking the line in the watery 
 plane, and forming an elegant frame to a 
 very excellent picture. By turning a little 
 to the right the profpeft changes -, at the 
 head of a floping inclofure, and under the 
 
 fkirts
 
 4 3 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Hurts of a deep wood, a fequeftered cottage 
 Hands in the point of beauty. 
 
 There is a great variety of pleafmg views 
 from the different meandering walks and feats 
 in the wood: At the mofs-houfe, and the 
 feat in the bottom of the wood, where UL- 
 VERSTON and the environs make a pretty 
 picture. Under the Ihrubbery, on the eaft- 
 ern fide of the houfe, and from the gate at 
 the the north end of the walk, in the after- 
 noon and fun fhining, behind a fwell of green 
 hills, the conical fummits of diftant moun- 
 tains are feen, gliftening like burnimed gold 
 in the fun beams, and pointing to the heavens 
 in a noble ilile. But as this fweet fpot is 
 injured by defcription, I fhall only add that 
 it is a great omiflion in the curious traveller, 
 to be in FURNESS, and not to fee this won- 
 derful pretty place, to which nature has 
 been fo profufe in noble gifts, directed by the 
 afliftance fhe has had, under the conduct 
 of an elegant fancy, a correct judgment, and 
 refined tafte. 
 
 CONISTON
 
 THELAKES. 49 
 
 CONISTON LAKE. 
 
 From ULVERSTON to CONISTON LAKE, 
 fix miles, is either by PENNY-BRIDGE, 
 or by LOWICK, excellent carnage road. By 
 LOWICK the road is along a narrow vale, 
 beautifully divided by hanging inclofures, 
 and fcattered farms, half way up the moun- 
 tains fides, whofe various heads are covered 
 with heath, and brown vegitation. About four 
 miles from ULVERSTON, you have a diftant 
 view of the lake, finely interfered with high 
 crowned peninfulas -, at, the upper end a fnow 
 white houfe is feen under a hanging wood, 
 and to the N. E. the lake feems to wind 
 round the mountains feet. The whole range 
 of CONISTON fells is now in fight, and un- 
 der them a lower fweep of dark rocks frown 
 over the cryftal furface of the lake. Ad- 
 vancing, on the left fee LowicK-H ALL, once 
 the feat of a family of that name i behind 
 this a difmal fcene of barrennefs prefents it- 
 felf; cluftered grey rocky mountains, vari- 
 egated with fome few ftripes of heath. After 
 crofling the outlet of the lake at LOWICK- 
 BRIDGE, thefe fcenes of barrenefs are often 
 E intercepted
 
 5 o AGUIDETO 
 
 intercepted by pieces of arable ground, hang- 
 ing fweetly to the eaft, and cut into waving 
 inclofures, with cottages prettily fhuated 
 under ancient oaks, or venerable yews. The 
 white houfes, in thefe parts, covered with 
 blue flate, have a neat appearance: The 
 thatched cot is e deemed a more picturefque 
 object; yet the other, feen under a deep green 
 wood, or covered by a purple back-ground 
 of heath, variegated with grey rocks and 
 cver-greens, have a pleafing effect. 
 
 Reach the fouth end of the lake : Here it is 
 narrowed by rocky prominences from both 
 fides, forming between their curvatures, a 
 variety of pretty bays. The whole length 
 of the lake is about fix mcafured miles, and 
 the greateft breadth about three quarters of 
 a mile; the greateft depth, by report, ex- 
 ceeds not forty fathom. A little higher, the 
 broadeft part commences, and ftretches, with 
 fmall curvatures, to WATER-HEAD. The 
 fliores are frequently indented, and one pret- 
 ty bay opens after another in a variety of 
 forms. 
 
 STATION I. A little above the vil- 
 liage of NIBTHWAITE the lake opens in full 
 
 view*
 
 THELAKES. 51 
 
 view. From the rock, on the left of the 
 road, you have a general view of the lake 
 upward. This ftation is found by obferving 
 an afh tree on the weft fide of the road, and 
 pafling that till you are in a line with the 
 peninfula, the rock is then at your feet. 
 On the oppofite fhore, to the left, and clofe 
 by the water's edge, arefome ftripes of mea- 
 dow and green ground, cut into fmall inclo- 
 fures, with feme dark coloured houfes under 
 aged yews and tall pine trees , two promon- 
 tories project a great way into the lake, the 
 broadeft is finely terminated by fteep rocks, 
 and crowned with wood-, both arc infulated 
 when the lake is high. Upwards, over a fine 
 iheet of water, the lake is again interfered 
 by a far projecting promontory, that fwells 
 into two eminences-, and betwixt them the 
 lake is again caught, with fome white houfes 
 at the feet of the mountains ; and more to 
 the right, over another headland, you catch 
 a fourth view of the lake, twifting to the N. 
 E. Almoft oppofite to this, ftands a houfr 
 on the crown of a rock, covered with an- 
 cient trees, that has a moft romantic ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The noble fcenery increafes as you ride 
 E 2 along
 
 52 AGUIDETO 
 
 along the banks , in feme places bold rocks, 
 lately covered with woods, conceal the lake 
 entirely, and when the wind blew, the bea- 
 ting of furges were heard juft under you; in 
 other places abrupt openings ihew the 
 lake anew, and when calm, its limpid fur- 
 face, (hining like a chryftal mirror, reflecting 
 the azure fky ; or chequred with dappled 
 clouds the vaulted canopy of heaven, in the 
 fineft mixture of nature's clare-obfcure. On 
 the weftern fide the fhore is more varie- 
 gated wit4 fmalljnclofurcsj fcattered cots, 
 and groves and meadows grace the banks. 
 
 The road continues along the eaftern banks 
 of the lake ; here bare, there fweetly fringed 
 with a few tall trees, the fmall remains of its 
 ancient woods that lately clothed the whole. 
 
 STATION II. When you are oppofite 
 to the peninfula laft defcribed, take in at a 
 gate on the left hand, and from the rocky 
 eminence you have a general view of the lake 
 both ways. To the fouth a fweet bay is for- 
 med between the horns of twopeninfulas,and 
 beyond that a fine meet of water appears, 
 terminated by the promontories which form 
 the ftraits through which the Jake has its 
 
 outlet.
 
 THELAKES. 53 
 
 outlet. From that the coaft is beautifully 
 diverfified by a number of green eminences, 
 crowned with wood, and interfperfed amongft 
 them fequeftered cottages, half concealed by 
 tall yew trees , and above them a wave of 
 rocky fpiral mountains drefTed in brown vc- 
 gitation, form moft romantic fcenes. Be- 
 tween this and a wooded eminence, a green 
 hill, cut into inclofures to the very top, in 
 fome parts patched with rock and little groves 
 has a beautiful appearance, contrafted with 
 the barren fcenes on one hand, and the 
 deep (hade of a waving wood on the ether. 
 At the foot of this cultivated tract, and on 
 the margin of the lake, a few white houfes, 
 partly concealed in a grove of yews, look 
 like enchanted feats on fairy ground. Be- 
 hind thefe a barren bleak mountain frowns 
 in fallen majefty, and down his furrowed 
 fide the BLACK-BECK of TORVER rolls with 
 mighty noife. Juft at your feet lies the 
 oblong rocky ifle of PEEL, and near it the 
 dark points of half drowned rocks juft (hew 
 themfelves by turns. Here is the fineft 
 picture of the lake, and when it is fmooth, 
 the whole is feen reflected on the mining fur- 
 face of the watery mirror. On the weftern 
 fide, the coaft is fteep rocks ; the eaftern fide 
 E 3 is
 
 54 AGUIDETO 
 
 is much embayed. The high end of ihe 
 lake is here in view, yet it feems to wind 
 both ways behind the'oppoflte promontories. 
 The range of naked rocks, that crofs the 
 head of the lake, appear now awful from 
 their fable hue, and behind them the im- 
 menfe mafs of COVE, RYDAL-HEAD, and 
 many namelefs mountains, have a moft ftu- 
 pendous appearance, and inacceflible height. 
 A fucceffion of pretty bays opens to the tra- 
 veller as he advances ; the banks become 
 more wooded, and more cultivation appears. 
 On the weftern margin flands the lady of 
 the lake, CONISTON-HALL, and above it the 
 village of the fame name-, it has only chan- 
 ged mafters twice fince the conqueft, and 
 has belonged to the family of FLEMING 
 moft of the time. 
 
 STATION III. The next grand view 
 is in the boat, and in the centre of the lake, 
 oppofite to CONISTON-HALL. Looking to- 
 wards the mountains, the lake fpreads itfelf 
 into a noble expanfe of tranfparent water, 
 and burfts into a bay on each fide, bordered 
 with verdent meadows, and inclofed with 
 grounds rifing in a various and exceeding 
 bold manner j the objects are diverfified in
 
 THELAKES. 55 
 
 the fimple and natural order, and contrafted 
 by the fine tranfition of rural elegance, and 
 paftoral beauty, cultivation and pafturage, 
 waving woods and Hoping inclofures, adorn- 
 ed by nature, and improved by art, under 
 the bold fides of flupendous mountains, 
 whofe airy fummits, the turned-up eye can- 
 not now reach, and deny all accefs to the hu- 
 man kind. 
 
 Following the line of fhorc from Co>ris- 
 TON-HALL to the upper end of the lake, the 
 village of CONISTON is in full view, and 
 confifts of feats, groups of houfes, farms, 
 and cots, fcattered in a picturefque manner 
 over the cultivated flope-, fome fnow whitCf 
 others grey; fome (land forth on bold emi- 
 nences at the head of green inclofures, back- 
 ed with fleep woods; others are pitched on 
 fwift declivities, and feem hanging in the air; 
 fome are on a level with the lake-, all are 
 neatly covered with blue flate, the produce 
 of the mountains, and beautified with orna- 
 mental yews, hollies, and tall pines, or firs. 
 This is a charming fcene when the morning 
 fan gilds the whole with a variety of tints- 
 In the point of beauty and centre of pcr- 
 fpective, a white houfe under a hanging wood 
 E 4 gives
 
 5 6 AGUTDETO 
 
 gives life to this picture , yet is fomewhat 
 injured by a cot that Hands on the fore- 
 ground, between it and the lake, and inter- 
 rupts the harmony of this fweet landlcape; 
 the- range of dark rugged rocks, rife ab- 
 ruptly and deeply contraft the tranlparent 
 furface of the lake, and the ftripe of verdure 
 that fkirts their feet. The eaitern ihore is 
 not lefs bold and embayed. The flate 
 brought down from the mountains is laid 
 up here, till put on board boats that tranf- 
 port it to the water-foot. 
 
 It will be allowed that the views on this lake 
 arc beautiful and picturefque, yet they pleafe 
 more thanfurprife. The hills that immediate- 
 ly inclofe the lake are ornamental, but hum- 
 ble; the mountains at the head of the lake are 
 great, noble, and fublime, without any thing 
 that is horrid or terrible-, they are bold and 
 fteep without the projecting precipice, the 
 overhanging rock, or pendent cliff. The 
 hanging woods, waving inclofures, and airy 
 fites, are elegant, beautiful, and romantic - r 
 and the whole may be feen with eafe and 
 pleafure. In a fine morning there is not a 
 more pleafant rural ride ; and the beauties of 
 the lake are fecn in a true light, and fine or- 
 der. In the afternoon, if funlhiae, much of 
 
 the
 
 THELAKES. 57 
 
 the effect is loft by the change of light ; and 
 fuch as vific it from the north lofe all the 
 charms arifing from the fwell of the moun- 
 tains, by turning their backs upon them. 
 
 The char here are faid to be the fineft in 
 ENGLAND-, they are fifhed later than on 
 WIMDERMERE, and continue longer in the 
 fpring. 
 
 At WATER 'HEAD, the road to the caft 
 leads to AMBLESIDE, eight miles, to HAWKS- 
 HEAD, three. Afcend a fteep hill, furround- 
 ed with wood, and have a back view of the 
 lake. To the north is a mod awful fcene of 
 mountains heaped upon mountains, in every 
 variety of horrid fhape , amongft them fweeps 
 to the north a deep winding chafm darkened 
 by overhanging rocks, that the eye cannot 
 pierce, nor the imagination fathom; from 
 which turn your face to the eaft, and have a 
 peep at fome part of WINDERMERE. The 
 road foon divides, the left leads to AM- 
 BLESIDE, the right to HAWKSHEAD, which 
 Hands under the mountain, at the up- 
 per end of a narrow valley. The church 
 is feated on the front of an eminence, that 
 commands the valley, which is floated 
 with the lake ot ESTHWAITE WATER, two 
 
 miles
 
 5 8 A GUIDE TO 
 
 miles it length, and half a mile in breadth, 
 interfe&ed by a peninfula trom each fide, 
 jutting far into the lake, finely elevated, the 
 crowns cultivated, and the borders, fringed 
 with trees and. low wood. The lake is en- 
 compafled with a good carriage road, and 
 over its outlet is a narrow ftone bridge: 
 On the banks are villages, and fcattcred 
 houfts, fweetly fituated under woods, and 
 hanging grounds, enamelled with delightful 
 verdure, and foft vegitation, heightened by 
 the deep made of the woods, and the ftrong 
 back-ground of rocky mcuntains. At the 
 head of a gentle Hope, and juft elevation, a 
 handfome modern houfe, BELL-MONT, is 
 charmingly fituated, and commands a de- 
 lightful view of the lake, with all the envi- 
 rons. 
 
 The fifh here are perch, pike, and eels; 
 no trout or char frequent this lake, though 
 it be conne&ed with WINDERMERE. 
 
 From HAWKSHEAD to AMBLESIDE, five 
 miles-, to the horfe-ferry on WINDERMERE, 
 three mile.*; on horfe-back this is the more 
 eligible rout, as it leads immediately to the 
 centre of the lake, where all its beauties are 
 feen to the greateft advantage. 
 
 WINDER-
 
 THELAKES. 59 
 
 WINDERMERE. 
 
 The WINDERMERE, like CONISTOM 
 LAKE, is viewed to greatefl. advantage by 
 facing the mountains, which rife in gran- 
 deur on the eye, and fwell upon the im- 
 agination as they are approached. 
 
 The road to the ferry is round the head 
 of ESTHWAITEWATER, through the villages 
 of COLTHOUSE and SOWREYS; afcend afteep 
 hill, and from its fummit, have a view of a 
 long reach of WINDERMERE, flretching far 
 to the fouth, till loft between two high pro- 
 montories. The road fcrpentizcs round a 
 rocky mountain, till you come under the 
 broken fear, that in fomc places hangs over 
 the way. Ancient yews and hollies grow 
 here fantaftically amongil the fallen rocks. 
 
 STATION I. Near the ifthmus of the 
 ferry point, obferve two fmall oak trees that 
 inclole the road, thefe will guide you to this 
 celebrated ftation. Behind the tree on the 
 wettern fi Je afcend to the top of the neareft 
 rock, and Irom thence in tw.o views command 
 
 all
 
 *o AGUIDETO 
 
 all the beauties of this magnificent lake. The 
 trees are of fingular ufe in anfwering the 
 purpofes of fore-ground, and of interfering 
 the lake; the rock riles perpendicular from 
 the lake, and forms a pretty bay, in front 
 RAMPS-HOLM (BERKSHIRE ISLAND) prefents 
 itfelf in all its length, cloathed in wood. 
 To the left the terry point, clofing with 
 CROW-HOLM, a wooded iQand, form a fine 
 promontory. Jufl behind this, the moun- 
 tain retiring inward, a femicircular bay is 
 formed, furrounded with a few acres of the 
 moft elegant verdure, Hoping upward from 
 the water's edge, graced with a cottage, in 
 the fine point of view; above it the moun- 
 tain rifes in agreeable wildnefs, variegated 
 with fcattered trees, and filver grey rocks. 
 An extent of water, of twelve miles circum- 
 ference, fpreads itfelf to the north, frequently 
 interfered with promontories, or fpotted 
 with iflands : Amongft them the HOLM, or 
 great ifland, an oblong tract of thirty acres, 
 traverfes the lake in an oblique line, fur- 
 rounded by a number of inferior ifles, finely 
 formed, and dreft in wood. The curlew 
 crags, pointed dark rocks, appear above the 
 water, and others juft concealed, give a fa- 
 ble hue to that part of the lake. KOUOH- 
 
 * HOLM
 
 THELAKES. 61 
 
 HOLM, is a circular ifle, covered with trees. 
 LADY-H< LM, an ifle of an oval form, is vef- 
 ted with copice wood. HEN-HOLM, is a 
 rock covered with fhrubs. GRASS-HOLM is 
 at prefent fhaded with a grove of oaks. 
 And two fmaller iflets borrow their name 
 form the lillies of the valley, which decorate 
 them; thefe with CROW-HOLM and BERK- 
 SHIRE ISLAND, form this ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 To the north of this magnificent fcene, 
 a glorious meet of water expands itfelf to 
 right and left, in curves bearing from the 
 eye, bounded on the weft by the continua- 
 tion of the mountain where you (land, whofe 
 bold lofty fide is embelliihed with diftant 
 growing trees, and fhrubs, and coarfe vegi- 
 tation, intermixed with grey rocks, that 
 group finely with the deep green yews and 
 hollies. The eaftern more is a noble con- 
 traft, adorned with all that is beautiful, 
 grand, and fublime. The immediate more 
 is much cultivated; the variety of hanging 
 grounds are immenie -, woods, groves, inclo- 
 fures, all terminating in rocky uplands of 
 various forms. The more upward is fpread 
 out in beautiful variety of waving inclofures, 
 intermixed with hanging woods and 
 
 fhrubby
 
 (fe A GUIDE TO 
 
 fhrubby fpots in circles, and in every 
 waving line of beauty, overtopped with wild 
 grounds, and rocky ridges of broken moun- 
 tains. The more in fome places fwells into 
 fpacions bays, in parts fringed with trees ; 
 their buftiy heads wave over the chryftal 
 flood. The parfonage houfe is feen, f weedy 
 feated under a fringe of till firs. Following 
 the fame line of more, above the eaft ferry 
 point, and on the banks of the bay, the tops 
 of the houfcs,and church of WINDERMERE, 
 arejuft fecn. Above that, BANNERIG and OR- 
 RIST-HEAD, rife gradually into points, cul- 
 tivated to the top, and cut into inclofures; 
 thefe are contrafted by the rugged crags of 
 BISCOT-HOE. TROUTBEC-PARK comes next 
 in view, and over that ILL-BELL rears his 
 conic head, and FAIRFIRLD fwells in Alpine 
 pride, rivalled by RYDAL'S loftier head. 
 
 The caftern coaft, to the fouth of what 
 has been defcribed, is ftill more pleating, in 
 variety of little groves, and interpofed inclo- 
 fures, with fcattered houfes, fwcetly fecreted. 
 To the fouth, and from the weftern coaft, 
 at three miles diftancc, RAWLINSON'S-NAB, 
 a high crowned promontory, moots far into 
 the lake, and from the oppofite more, the 
 
 STORE
 
 THELAKES. 63 
 
 .STORE, another wooded promontory, Wretch- 
 ing far Into the water pointing at the rocky 
 ifleof LING-HOLM. Over RAWLINSON'S-NAB 
 the lake fpreads out in a magnificent fheet 
 of water, and following the winding ihore 
 far to the fouth, is loft behind a promontory 
 on the eaftern fide. Over two woody moun- 
 tains, PARK and LANDEN-NAB, the blue 
 fummits of diftant mountains waving in va- 
 rious forms, clofe the fcene. 
 
 Having from this ftation enjoyed thefe 
 charming views, defcend to the ferry-houfe, 
 and proceed to the great ifland, where you 
 again fee all that is charming on the lake, 
 all that is magnificent and fublime in the 
 environs, in new points of view. 
 
 Of this fequeftered fpot Mr.YouNcfpeaks 
 in rapture *, and Mr. PENNANT has done it 
 much honour by his defcriptionf. But alas! it 
 is no more to be feen in that beautiful unaffec- 
 ted ftate that thofe gentlemen faw it in. The 
 fweet fecreted cottage,and the fy camore grove, 
 are no more. The prefent owner has mo- 
 del nized a fine flope in the bofom of the 
 
 i 
 ifland 
 
 * Six month's Tour Vol. 3d. pigc 176. 
 t Tour in Scotland page 33.
 
 64 AGUIDETO 
 
 ifland into a formal garden-, an unpleafing 
 contraft to the natural fimplicity, and iniu- 
 lar beauty of the place. What reafon he has 
 for adopting fuch a plan, I lhall not enquire, 
 much lefs treat him with abufe for executing 
 it to his own fancy; the want of choice 
 might juftify his having a garden on the 
 ifland ; but fmce it is now in his power to 
 have it elfewhere, I hope it will be his plei- 
 fure, when he revifits the place, to reftore 
 the ifland to its native ftate of paftoral iim- 
 plicity, and rural elegance. 
 
 The ifland was long the property of the 
 PHILIPSONS, once a potent familly in thele 
 parts; and Sir CHRISTOPHER PHILIPSON, 
 with his familly, refided upon it in the be- 
 ginning of this century. 
 
 STATION II. The views from this 
 delicious fpot are many and charming. 
 From the fouth end of the ifland you look 
 over a noble extent of water, bounded in 
 front by waves of diftant mountains, that 
 rife from the water's edge; the two ferry 
 points form a picturefque ftrait, and beyond 
 that, the STORE on one fide, and RAWLIV- 
 SON'S-NAB on the other, ihooting far into 
 
 the
 
 THELAKES. 65 
 
 the lake, form a grand fmuofity, and the 
 intermediate mores arc beautifully indented 
 by promontories, covered with wood, hang- 
 ing to the eye, and fkirting the bays with 
 elegant edgings of fp^eading trees. BERK- 
 SHIRE ISLAND and CR.OW-HOLME break the 
 line in this noble expanfe of water. The 
 eaftern more confeffes much cultivation; 
 the hills are much diverfified, and ftrangely 
 tumbled about. Some are laid out in grafs 
 inclofures, others cut with hedge?, and frin- 
 ged with trees ; one is crowned with wood, 
 and fkirted with the fweeteft verdure; others 
 wave with corn , the whole is a mixture of 
 objects that conftitute the mol pleafmg of 
 rural fcenes. The upper grounds are wild 
 and paftured with flocks. 
 
 STATION III. From the north end 
 of the ifland the views are more fublime, 
 the fcenes vaft. The lake is here feen both 
 ways. To the fouth an expanfe of water 
 fpreads to the right, and left, behind a fuc- 
 ceflion of promontories, with variety of 
 fhore, patched with iflands, encircled by an 
 amphitheatre of diftant hills, rifing in a no- 
 ble ftile. Turning to the north, the view 
 F is
 
 66 AGUIDETO 
 
 is over a reach of the lake, fix miles i.i 
 length, and above one in breadth, interrup- 
 ted with (cattered iflands of different figure 
 and drefs, reflected from the limpid furface 
 of the waier feen difUi c~tly btt\van them. 
 The environs exhibit all the grandeur of Al- 
 pine fcene.S in the conic fummits of LANG- 
 DALE-PIKES and KILL-BELL-, the broken 
 ridge of WRYNOSE, and KIRKSTCNE'S rocky 
 front; the overharging cliff of HARDKNOT-, 
 the uniform mafs of FAIRFIELD, and RY- 
 DAL-HEAD, with "the far extended mountains 
 of TRCUTBECK and KENTMERE, form the 
 mod magnificent ampin theatre, and gran- 
 deft aflcmblage of mountains, dells, and 
 chafms, that ever the fancy of POUSSIN fug- 
 gefted, cr the genius of ROSA invented. 
 1 he ifland is the centre of this amphithe- 
 atre, and in the opj..cfite Loint, directly over 
 the extremity of the lake, is RYDAL-HALL. 
 fweetly feattd for the enjoyment of thefe 
 Icenes, and in return animates the whole. 
 1 he irr mediate borders of the lake are a- 
 dorntd with villages and fcattered cots ; 
 CALGARTH and KAVRIG grace its banks. 
 
 After enjoying thefe internal views from 
 
 the
 
 T H E L A K E S. 67 
 
 the bofom of the lake, I recornmenl failing 
 down to RAWLIMSON'S-NAB. On the foui.ii 
 fide of it, a. pretty bay opens for landing on. 
 In the courfe of the voyage you fhould touch 
 at the different i Hands in the way, where 
 every object is varied by a change of fea- 
 tures, in fuch a manner as renders the n 
 wholly new. The great ifUnd changes its 
 appearance, and joined with the ferry poi its- 
 cuts the lake in two. The houfe on it be- 
 comes an important object. The tcrry- 
 houfe, feen under the fyca.nore grove, has a 
 fine effect ; and the broken cliff over it, con- 
 ititutes a moft picturefque fcene. The 
 beauty of more, and fined rural fcenes in 
 nature, are feen by traverfing the lake; and 
 viewing each in turn, they contrail ftrongly. 
 The weftern fide is fpread with enchanting 
 fylvan fcenes-, the eaftern waves with all the 
 improved glory of rural magnificence. 
 
 STATION IV. RAWLINSON'S-NAB, is 
 a pemnfular rock, of a circular figure, fwel- 
 ling to a crown in the centre, covered with 
 low wood : There are two of them, b t it 
 is from the crown of the interioi NAB, you 
 F 2 have
 
 68 AGUIDETO 
 
 have a furprifing view of two fine (beets of 
 water that bend different ways. 
 
 The view to the fouth is bounded by a 
 bold and various fhore, on both fides. The 
 hills are wooded and rough, but fpotted in 
 parts wiih fmall inclofuies, and their tops 
 burft into rocks of various lhapes. 
 
 The view to the north is more beautiful: 
 An extent of three miles of the lake, broke 
 into by the bold promontory, the STORES, 
 and above that BERKSHIRE ISLAND is charm- 
 ingly placed. BANNER IG and ORREST- 
 HEAD rifmg from the ihore in magnificent 
 flopes, are feen from hence to great ad- 
 vantage. This beautiful fcene is well co.n- 
 trafted from the oppofite fide, by a ridge of 
 hanging woods, fj read over wild romantic 
 grounds, that moot abruptly into bold and 
 fpirited projections. 
 
 Return to BOWNESS, and conclude by 
 taking Mr. YOUNG'S general view of the 
 lake, where, at one glance, you command all 
 its ftriking beauties. No ftation can better 
 anfwer the purpofc, and it would be an in- 
 
 juftice
 
 THELAKES. 69 
 
 juftice done to the difcoverer to deviate one 
 tittle fro;n his defcription. 
 
 X 
 
 STATION V. "*Thus having view- 
 ed the moft pleafing objects from thele 
 pjint?, let me next conduct you to a ipot, 
 where at one glance you command them all 
 in frefh (ituations, and all afifuming a new 
 appearance. For this purpofe you return 
 to the village, and taking the by-road to 
 the turnpike, mount the hill without turn- 
 ing your head, (if I was your guide I would 
 conduct you behind a fmall hill, that you 
 might come at once upon the view), till you 
 almoft gain the top, when you will be ftruck 
 with aftonifhment at the profpect fpread at 
 your feet, which if not the moft luperlative 
 view that nature can exhibit, fhe is more 
 fertile in beauties than the reach of my im- 
 agination will allow me to conceive. It 
 would be a mere vanity to attempt to de- 
 fcribe a fcene which beggars all defcription ; 
 but that you may have tome faint idea of 
 the outlines of this wonderful picture, I will 
 juft give the particulars of which it confifts. 
 
 F 3 " The 
 
 *Six month's Tour, vol. 3d, page 184..
 
 70 AGUIDETO 
 
 " The point on which you ftand is the 
 fi e of a large ridge of hills that form the 
 eaftern boundary of the lake, and the 
 fit nation high enough to look down upon 
 all the objects : A circumftance of great 
 imf ortance, which painting cannot imitate. 
 In landfcapcs you are either o i a level with 
 the object*-, or look up to them , the painter 
 canr.or. give the declivity at your feet, which 
 leflens the objects as much in the perpendi- 
 cular line, as in the ho izontal one. You 
 look down upon a noble winding valley of 
 ab^ut twelve miles long, every where inclofed 
 with gr unds, which rife in a very bold and 
 various manner-, in fame places bulging in- 
 to mountains, abrupt,wild,and uncultivated; 
 in others breaking irto rocks, craggy, poin- 
 ted and irregular; here rifi g into hills co- 
 vered with the nobleft woods, prefenting a 
 gli.omy brownnefs of made, almoft from the 
 ciouds, to the reflection of the trees in the 
 limped water of the lake they fo beau- 
 tifully fkirt: There waving in glorious 
 flopes of cul ivated inclofures, adorned in 
 the fweeteft manner with every object that 
 can give variety to art, or elegance to na- 
 ture-, trees, w^ods, villages, hoiifes, farms, 
 
 Icattered
 
 THE LAKES. 71 
 
 fcattered with piJturefquc 1 confufi ->n, and 
 waving ro the eye in the moft ronantic 
 landfcapes that nature can exhibir. 
 
 " This valley, fo beautifully inclofed, is 
 fioated by the lake, which fpreaJs forth to the 
 right and le r t, in one vaft, but irregular ex- 
 panfe of tranfparent water; a more n ible ob- 
 ject ca ! hardly be imagined. Its mi nedtate 
 fhore is traced in every va"iety of line that 
 fancy can imagine-, tbmetimes contracting 
 the lake into the appearance of a noble 
 winding river: at others retiring; from it 
 
 O *J 
 
 and opening into large bays, as if for navies 
 to anchor in , promontories fpread wit'i 
 woods, or icattered with fees and incl jfures, 
 projecting into the water in the moft pictu- 
 rdque ftilelmaginable-, rocky points break- 
 ing the {bore, and rearing their bold heads 
 above the water; in a word, a variety tnat 
 
 amazes the beholder. 
 
 * 
 
 " But what finilhes the fcene wiuh an ele- 
 gance too delicious to be imagined, is, this 
 beautiful meet of water being dotrcd with 
 no lefs then ten iQands, diftinctly compre- 
 hended by the eye j all of the mcit bevv itch- 
 F 4 ing
 
 72 A G U 1 D E T O 
 
 ing beauty. The large one prefents a wa- 
 ving various line, which rifes from the wa- 
 ter in the moil pifturefque inequalities of 
 furface: High land in one place, low in a- 
 nother, clumps of tree in this fpot, fcat- 
 tered ones in that, adorned by a farm houfe 
 on the water's edge, and backed wi'h a little 
 wood, vying in fimple elegance with Baro- 
 mean palaces: Some of the fmaller ifles ri- 
 fmg from the lake, like little hills of wood; 
 lome only fcattered with trees, and others of 
 grafs of the fined verdure; a more beautiiul 
 variety is no where to be letn. 
 
 " Strain your imagination to command 
 the idea of fo noble an expanfe of water, 
 thus glorioufly environed, fpotted with iflards 
 mote beautiful than would have ifTued from 
 the happieft painter. Picture the mcun- 
 tains rearing their majeftic heads with na- 
 tive fublimity; the vaft rocks boldly pro- 
 jecting their terrible craggy points; and in 
 the path of beauty, the variegated inclofures 
 of the moft charming verdure, hanging to 
 the, eye in every picturcfque form that can 
 grace Jandfcape, with the mod exquifite 
 touches of LA BELLE NATURE. If you raiie 
 
 your
 
 THELAKES. 73 
 
 your fancy to fomething infinitely beyond 
 this affc-mbhge of rural elegancies, you may 
 have a faint notion of the unexampled beau- 
 ties of this ravifhing landfcape " 
 
 If the fun mines, this view of Mr. YOUNG'S 
 can only be enjoyed early in the morning: 
 As that on the oppofitc more, behind the 
 two oak trees is an afternoon proipect, fiom 
 a parity of circumftance , the fun in both 
 places illuminating the objects on the oppo- 
 fite fides of the lake, at different times of 
 the day. Thefc are the fined ftations on 
 the lake for pleafing the eye, but are by 
 much too elevated for the purpofe of the 
 artift, who will find the picturefquc points 
 on the great iiland well fuited to his inten- 
 tion of morning and evening landfcape 
 having command of fore-ground, the objects 
 well alcertained, grouped and difpofed in the 
 fineft order of nature. A picture of the north 
 end of the lake taken from this ifland, will 
 far exceed the fanciful production of the 
 happicft pencil. This may be eafily veri- 
 fied by the ufe of the convex reflecting 
 felafs. 
 
 RAW-
 
 74 A G U I D E T O 
 
 RAWLINSON'S-NAB is another pidurefque 
 point, either for the eye, or the pt-nc i. You 
 are there advanced a great way into the lake, 
 in the mid ft of the fineit fcenes, with a charm- 
 ing fore-ground at your feet. 
 
 From the low CAT-CRAG, which is a lit- 
 tle to the iouth of the NAB, you have a view 
 of the ibuth end of the lake, and as far north 
 as the great ifland. The feny points, the 
 STORES, the NAB, the kffcr iflands, are dif- 
 tinctly viewed in a fine order. Mr. ENG- 
 LISH'S houfe on the ifhnd is a fine object; 
 and the beauties of the weftern more to the 
 fouth of the CRAG, are only fern from 
 thence. 
 
 To fum up the peculiar beauties of WIM- 
 DFRMERE, the great variety of landfcape, 
 and enchanting views, that this chief of 
 lakes exhibits, after what Mr. YOUNG has 
 faid of it, is imnecefiary. He allowed him- 
 felf time to examine this, and the lakes in 
 CUMBERLAND, and he defcribes each of 
 them with much tafte and judgment, and it 
 is evident that he gives the prtference to 
 \VINDERMERE. Yet this ought not to pre- 
 judice
 
 THELAKES. 75 
 
 judice the minds of thofe who have the tour 
 to make, againft fuch as prefer DERWEVT 
 LAKE, or ULLES WATER. The ftiles are 
 all different, and the fenfations excited there- 
 by will alfo be different; and the idea that 
 gives pleafure or pain -n the higheft degree 
 will be the rule of comparative judgment. 
 It perhaps will be allowed by all, that the 
 greateil variety of fine landfcape is found 
 here. 
 
 Thefe flations will furnifh much amufe- 
 ment to thofe who vifit them, and others 
 will prelent themfelves occ^iionally ; and 
 whoever is delighted with water expeditions, 
 and entertainments, as rowing, failing, fifh- 
 irg, &c, will meet with full employment 
 here for a few days. 
 
 The fifh of this lake are char, trout, 
 perch, pike, and eel : Of the char there are 
 two varieties, the cafe char, and the gelt 
 char , the latter is a fifti that did not fpawn 
 the laft feafon, and is on that account more 
 delicious. 
 
 The greateft depth of the Jake is oppofite. 
 
 to
 
 76 AGUIDETO 
 
 toEcCLESRIG-CRA^, 222 f eet ; the fall from 
 
 NEWBY-BRIDGE, where the current becomes 
 vifible, to Low- WOOD, the hi^h water mark, 
 difl^nt two miles, is 105 feet; the bottom 
 of the lake is therefore 117 feet below hi b h 
 water mark. 
 i 
 
 In BOWNESS nothing fo remarkable as fome 
 remains of painted glafs in the eaft window 
 of the church, that was brought from ihe 
 abbey of FURNESS. 
 
 From BOWNESS to AMBLESIDE, fix miles, 
 along the fide of the lake. On the top of 
 an eminence, a little behind RAY RIG, there 
 is a fine view of the northern extremity of 
 the lake. As you proceed along the banks, 
 every ilcp has importance; the profpecr. be- 
 comes more and more auguft, exhibiting 
 much variety of Appenine grandeur. 
 LANGDALE-PIKES, that guard the pafs into 
 BORROWDALE, on this fide the YOAK, and 
 fpiral HILL-BSLL, the overhanging crags of 
 lofty RAINSB ARROW, the broken ridge of 
 REDSCREES, FAIRFIELD, and SCRUBBY- 
 CRAG, on whofc precipitous front the eagle 
 builds his neft, fecure from the envious 
 
 fhepherds
 
 THELAKES. 77 
 
 ihepherds of the vale; with a chaos of name - 
 Ids mountains, are all in fight, and feem to 
 move as you advance, and fhew thcmfevcs 
 in turns. 
 
 Juft at the head of WINDERMERE, and a 
 little Ihort of AMBLESIDE, turn down a by- 
 road to the left, and fee the veftige of a 
 Roman ftation ; it lies in the meadow on a 
 level with the lake, and as fuppofed, was 
 called the DICTIS, where a part of the cohort 
 NERVJORUM DICTENTIUM was ftationed. 
 It is placed near the meetings of all the roads 
 from PENRITH, KESWICK, RAVENGLASS, 
 FURNESS, and KENDAL, which it comman- 
 ded, and was acceffiblc only on one fide. 
 
 AMBLESIDE. 
 
 Here nothing at prefent is found of alt 
 that C AMD EN mentions of this place; fo 
 fwifc is time in deftroying the laft remains 
 of ancient mag iftcence. Roman coins and 
 arms hav been frequently found here -, and 
 in forming the turnpike road through RY- 
 DAL, an urn was lately taken up, which con- 
 tained
 
 7 S AGUIDETO 
 
 rained allies, and other Roman remains, and 
 ferves to prove the tia& of the ancient road 
 to have laid that way. 
 
 In mountainous countries, cafcades, wa- 
 ter-falls, and cataracts are rrequent, but are 
 only feen in high beauty when in lull tor- 
 rent, and that is in wet weather, or foon after 
 it. Above AMBLESIDE about a mile, there 
 is a cafcade, that, though the ieafon fhould 
 be dry, merits a vifit on account of its fm- 
 gular beauty, and diftinguifhed features, 
 from others you will fee in the courfe of the 
 tour. The ftream here, though the water 
 be low, is much divided, and broken by a 
 variety of pointed dark rocks ; then collecting 
 itfelf in one torrent, it is precipitated with a 
 horrid rulhing noife into a dark gulph, un- 
 fathomable to the eye; and after rifing in 
 foam, is darned wit ha thundering noife head- 
 long do\vn a fleep craggy charnel, till it join 
 theRoTHAvbelowAMBLEsiDE.' The parts of 
 this cataract are noble ; the deep dark hue of 
 the rocks in the gloomy bofom of a narrow 
 glen, juft vifible by day, and fhewn by con- 
 traft of the fretted, foaming water, height- 
 
 ned
 
 THELAKES. 79 
 
 ned by a mixture of gr-en from the trees 
 that wave over the fall, and the fhrubs and. 
 bufhes that hang on the rocks that di- 
 vide the dream, and render this icene high- 
 ly picturefque. HUTCHINSON is the firft 
 that mentions this furpnfing object, and 
 his ftation is vveil chofe, at the old oak that 
 leans over the precipice-, but there is a lovs- 
 er ftation that will better fuit fuch as do 
 not chufe to overlook a trembling preci- 
 pice. 
 
 From AMBLESIDE to KESWIPK, eighteen 
 miles of excellent mountain road, fur. 
 nifties much amufement to the traveller. 
 If the feafon be rainy, or immediately after 
 rain, all the poffible variety of cafcade, ca- 
 taract, and water-falls, are feen in this ride. 
 Some precepitating themlelves from immenfe 
 heights, others leaping and bounding from 
 rock to rock in foaming torrents, hurling 
 huge fragments to the vale, that make the 
 mountains tremble to their fall. The hol- 
 lo wnoifefvvel Is an J dies upon the ear by turns. 
 The fcenes are aiioniming, the fuccefilon 
 of them matchlefs. AtRvDAL HALL are two 
 cafcades worthy of notice : One is a little a- 
 
 bove
 
 So AGUIDETO 
 
 hove the houfe, to which Sir MICHAEL LE 
 FLEMING has made a convenient path, that 
 brings you upon it all at once, a mighty 
 torrent tumbling headlong from an immenfe 
 height of rock, uninterrupted into the rocky 
 baton below, ihaking the mountain under 
 you with its fall, and the air above with the 
 rebound : It is a furprifing fcene. This 
 gentleman's example in opening a road to 
 the fall, recommends itfelf ftrongly in this 
 country, that abounds with fo many noble 
 objects, that travellers of the leaft tafte would 
 vifit with plealure, could they do it with 
 fafety. 
 
 The other cafcade is a fmall fall of wa- 
 ter feen through the window of the fummer- 
 houfe, in Sir MICHAEL'S orchard, The 
 firft who brought this fweet fcene to light, 
 is the elegant and learned ecitor of Mr. 
 GRAY'S letters. And as no one defcribts 
 with fuch propriety as Mr. MASON, the 
 reader mail have his account of this mafter- 
 picce of nature. " Here nature has perfor- 
 med every thing in little that Ihe ufually ex- 
 ecutes in her larger fcale , and on that ac- 
 count, like the miniature painter, feems to 
 
 have
 
 THELAKES. 81 
 
 have rimmed every part of it in a ftudied 
 manner. Not a little fragment of a rock 
 thrown into the bafon, not a fingle ftem of 
 brufh-wood that ftarts from its craggy fides, 
 but has a piftureique meaning , and the lit- 
 tle central current darning down a cleft of 
 the darkeft coloured ft one, produces an ef- 
 fecb of light and fhadow beautiful beyond 
 defeription. This little theatrical fcene 
 might be painted as large as the original, on 
 a canvas not bigger than thofe ufually drop- 
 ped in the opera-houfe. " 
 
 RYDAL-HALL has a grand fituation, at 
 the feet of ftupendous mountains, open- 
 ing to the fouth at the enterancc of the vale 
 over a noble fore-ground, and commands a 
 charming view of the WINDERMERE. The 
 river ROTHEY winds thro* the vale, amidft 
 lofty rocks and hanging woods, to join the 
 lake. The road ferpentizes upwards round a 
 bulging rock, fringed with trees, and brings 
 you foon in fight of RYDAL WATER, a lake 
 about one mile in length, fpotted with little 
 iftes, which communicates, by a narrow 
 channel, withGRASMERE LAKE. The river 
 ROTHEY is their common outlet. 
 
 G Mount
 
 82 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Mount GRASMERE hill, and from thetopt 
 have a view of as fweet a fcene as travelled 
 eye ever beheld. Mr. GRAY'S defcription of 
 this peaceful happy vale, will raife a wifli 
 in every reader to fee fo primaeval a place. 
 
 " The bofom of the mountains, fpreading 
 here into a broad bafon, difcover in the midil 
 GRASMERE WATER; its margin is hollowed 
 into fmall bays, with eminences; fome of 
 rock, fome of foft turf, that half conceal, and 
 vary the figure of the little lake they com- 
 mand : From the fhore, a low promontory 
 pufhes itfelf far into the water, and on it 
 ftands a white village, with a parifh church 
 riling in the midft of it : Hanging inclofures, 
 corn fields, and meadows, green as an eme- 
 rald, with their trees, and hedges, and cattle, 
 fill up the whole fpace from the edge of the 
 water: And juft oppofite to you is a large 
 farm houfe, at the bottom of a fteep fmooth 
 lawn, embofomed in old woods, which climb 
 half-way up the mountains fides, and difco- 
 ver above a broken line of crags that crown 
 the fcene. Not a fingle red tile, nor flaring 
 gentleman's houfe, or garden-wall, break in 
 upon the repofe of this litlle unfufpected pa- 
 
 radife j
 
 THELAKES. 83 
 
 radife; but all is peace, rufticity, and happy- 
 poverty, in its neateft, moft becoming at- 
 tire." 
 
 Mr. GRAY'S defcription is taken from th e 
 road defcending from DUNM AIL-RAISE -, bu 
 the more advantagous ftation, to view this 
 romantic vale from, is on the weftern fide* 
 Proceed from AMBLESIDE by CLAPERSGATE, 
 along the banks of the river BB.ATHA, and 
 at SCALEWITH-BRIDGE afcend a fteep hill 
 that leads to GRASMERE, and a little behind 
 its fummit you come in fight ot the valley and 
 lake, lying in the fweeteft order. The ifland 
 is near the centre, unlefs the water be very 
 low , the church ftands at a fmall diftance 
 from the lake, on the fide of the ROTHEY^US 
 principal feeder. On each hand fpreads the 
 cultivated trad up the fteep fides of fur- 
 rounding mountains, guarded by STEEL- 
 FELL, and SEAT-SANDBY, that advancing to- 
 wards each other, clofe the view at DUN. 
 MAIL RAISE. The broken head of HOLME- 
 CRAG has a fine effect, feen from this point. 
 Defcend the hill, leave the church on the 
 right hand, and prefently arrive at the great 
 road to AMBLESIDE or KESWICK j here you 
 
 G 2 have
 
 84 AGUIDETO 
 
 have Mr. GRAY'S view, and will fee the dif- 
 ference. Mr. GRAY has omitted the iQand 
 in his defcription, which is a principal in 
 this fweet fccne. 
 
 This vale of peace is about four miles in 
 circumference, and guarded at the upper end 
 by HOLME-CRAG, a broken pyramidal moun- 
 tain, that exhibits an immenle mafs of An- 
 tideluvian ruins. After this the road afcends 
 DUNMAIL-RAISE, where lies the hiftorical 
 ftones, that perpetuate the name and fall of 
 the laft King of CUMBERLAND, defeated there 
 by the Saxon monarch EDMUND, who put 
 out the eyes of his two fons, and for confe- 
 derating with LEOLIN, King of WALES, a- 
 gainft him, he firft wafted his kingdom, and 
 then gave it to MALCOLM, King of SCOTS, 
 who held it in fee of EDMUND, A. D. 944, 
 or 945. The ftones are a heap that have 
 the appearance of a karned or barrow ; the 
 wall that divides the county croffcs them at 
 right angles, which proves their priority of 
 time there. 
 
 From DUNMAIL-RAISE, the road is aneafy 
 defcent of nine miles to KESWICK, except 
 
 CAS-
 
 THELAKES. 85 
 
 CASTLE-RIGG that isfomcwhat quick. Lea- 
 ving the vale OGRASMERE behind, you foon 
 come in fight of LEATHES WATER, called 
 alfo WYTHBURN and THIRLMEER. It 
 begins at the foot of HELVELLYN, and 
 fldrts its bafe for the fpace of four miles, 
 encreafed by a variety of paftoral torrents, 
 that pour down the mountains fides their 
 filver ftrearns, which warbling join the lake. 
 The range of mountains on the right are 
 tremendoufly great, HELVELLYN and CAT- 
 CHIDECAM, are the chief; and according 
 to the WYTHBURN ihepherds, much higher 
 then SKIDDAW. This is certain, that thefe 
 mountains retain fnow many weeks after 
 SKIDDAW has loft his winter covering j but 
 that may be owing to the fteepnefs of SKID- 
 DAW'S northern fide, and the fhivery furfacc, 
 that attracts more forcibly the folar rays, than 
 the verdant front of HELVELLYN, and fo 
 precipitates in falanches the winter's load at 
 once. A thoufand huge rocks hang oil 
 HELVELLYN'S brow, all once in motion, and 
 ready to ftart anew: Many have already 
 reached the lake, and are at reft. The road 
 fweeps through them along the naked mar- 
 gin of the lake* The oppofite fhore is beau- 
 G 3 tified
 
 86 A GUIDE TO 
 
 tificd with variety of crown top'd rocks, 
 lome wooded, others not, rifmg immediately 
 from the water-, fome rent and hanging for- 
 ward to the water; all fet of with a back- 
 ground of verdant mountains, rifmg in the 
 nobleft flile ; the whole reflected from the 
 foft bofom of the lake. Its fingular beauty 
 is being almoft interfered in the middle by 
 twopeninfulas, that are joined by a bridge, 
 in a tafte fuitable to the genius of the place, 
 which ferves for an eafy communication 
 among the fhepherds that dwell on the op- 
 pofite banks. 
 
 At thefixth mile-poft, from the top of art 
 eminence, on the left, there is a good gene- 
 ral view of the lake and vale , but the mod 
 picturefque point is from an eminence behind 
 DALEHEAD houfe. The lake terminates 
 fweetly with a pyramidal rock wooded to 
 the top, and oppolite to it, a filver grey rock, 
 hanging over its bale towards the lake, has 
 a fine effect. 
 
 The road after this leads through the nar- 
 row green vale of Ac BERTH WAIT E, divided 
 into fmall inclofures, peopled with a few 
 
 cots
 
 T H E L A K E S. 87 
 
 cots, and nobly terminated by the romantic 
 caftJe-like rock of St. JOHN. Below, the vale 
 contracts into a deep craggy dell, through 
 which LEATHES WATER rolls itfclf till it 
 joins the GREETA at NEW-BRIDGE, under 
 the foot of THRELKELD-FELL, a gloomy 
 mountain of dark dun rocks, that fhuts up 
 the view of the fvveet fpreading vale of St. 
 JOHN. 
 
 The road winds to the leftalongTHWAiTE- 
 BRIDGE, and afcends NADDLE-FELL, by CAW- 
 
 SEYWAY-FOOT,toCASTLE-RIGG. At the turn 
 
 of the hill, and within two miles of KESWICK, 
 you come at once in fight of the glorious 
 vale, with all its noble environs, aad won- 
 derfully inchanting fcenes, which when Mr. 
 GREY beheld, had almoil determintd him 
 to return to KESWICK, and repeat his tour. 
 
 " I left KESWICK, fays he, and took the 
 AMBLESIDE road, in a gloomy morning, and 
 about two miles from the town, mounted an 
 eminence, called CASTLE-RIGG, and the fun 
 breaking out, difcovered the mod enchan- 
 ting view, I have yet feen, of the whole vaU- 
 ley behind me ; the two lakes, the river, the 
 G 4 mountains
 
 88 A GUIDE TO 
 
 mountains, all in their glory ; fo that I had al- 
 moft a mind to have gone back again." This 
 is certainly a moft ravifhing morning view 
 of the bird's-eye kind , a circuit of twenty 
 miles; two lakes, DERWINT, and BASSEN- 
 THWAITE, the river ferpentizing betwern; 
 the town of KESWICKJ and church of CKOS- 
 THWAITE, in the centre points ; an extenfive 
 fertile plain , all the furrounding mountains 
 that inclofe this delicious fpot, feen in all 
 their greatnefs, aftonim, furprifc, and delight. 
 
 The druid temple, mentioned by HUT- 
 CHINSON, and delineated in PENNANT'S 
 tour, lies about half a mile to the right ; but 
 will be more conveniently feen from the 
 PENRITH road. Defcend to 
 
 K E S W I C K. 
 
 This frnall neat town is at prefent re- 
 nowned for nothing fo much as the lake it 
 ftands near, and is fometimes called by its 
 name, the lake of KESWICK, but more pro- 
 perly the lake of DERWENT; and I am in- 
 clined to think, and hope to make it appear, 
 
 that
 
 THELAKES. 89 
 
 that the ancient name of KESWICK, is the 
 DERWENT TOWN, or the town of DERWENT 
 WATER. But firft of the lake itfelf. 
 
 The whole extent of the lake is about 
 three miles, from north to fouth ; the form 
 is irregular-, its greateft breadth exceeds not 
 a mile and a half. The courfe of viewing this 
 fair/ enchanting lake, is in the boat, and 
 from the banks. Mr. GRAY viewed it from 
 the banks only ; and Mr. MASON, after try- 
 ing both, prefers Mr. GRAY'S choice ; and 
 where the pleafure of rowing and failing arc 
 out of the queftion, it will in general be 
 foundthe beft, on account of the near ground, 
 which the boat does not furnim ; yet every 
 dimcnfion of the lake appears more extend- 
 ed from its bofom, than from its banks 
 or other elevated ftation. I fhall therefore 
 point out the favourite flations round the 
 lake, that have often been verified. 
 
 STATION I. COCKSHUT-HILL is re- 
 markable for a general view, it is covered 
 with a motly mixture of young wood, has 
 an cafy afcent to the top, and from it the 
 lake appears in great beauty. On the floor 
 
 of
 
 90 A G U 1 D E T O 
 
 of a fpacious amphitheatre, of the moft pic"- 
 turefque mountains imaginable, an elegant 
 fheet of water is fpread out before you, 
 fhining like a mirror, and tranfparent as 
 chryftal; variegated with ifiands, that rife 
 in the moft pleafmg forms above the wa- 
 tery plane, drefled in wood, or clothed 
 with fofteft verdure, the water fhining round 
 them. The effects all around are amazingly 
 great, but no words can defcribe the furpri- 
 fing pleafure of this fcene, in a fine day 
 when the fun plays upon the bofom of the 
 lake, and the furrounding mountains are il- 
 luminated by his refulgent rays, and their 
 rocky broken fummits reflected inverted by 
 the chryftal furface of the water. 
 
 STATION II. The next celebrated 
 ftation, is at a fmalt diftance. CROW-PARK, 
 till of late a grove of oaks of immemorial 
 growth, whofe fall the bard of LOWES WA- 
 TER, bemoans in humble plaintive numbers 
 thus, 
 
 That ancient wood, where beafis did fafely reft, 
 And where the crosv long time had bailt her neft, 
 Now falls, a deftin'd prey, to favage hands, 
 Being doom'd, alas! to vi'fit diftaat lands. 
 
 ip j Ah!
 
 THELAKES. g i 
 
 Ah! what avails thy beaded ibrength at laft ? 
 That braved the rage of mapy furious blail; 
 When now thy body's fjpent with many a wound, -\ 
 Loud groans its laft, and thunders on the giound, C 
 Whilft hills, and dales, and woods, and rocks rei f ound. J 
 
 This now fhadelefs pafture, is a gentle emi- 
 nence not too high, on the very margin of 
 the lake, which it commands in all its extent, 
 and looks full into the craggy pafs of BOR- 
 ROWDALE. Of this ftation Mr. GRAY fpeaks, 
 " October 4th, I wajked to CROW-PARK, 
 now a rough pafture, once a glade of ancient 
 oaks, whofe large roots frill remain in the 
 ground, but nothing has iprung from them. 
 If one fmgle tree had remained this would 
 have been an unparalleled fpot -, and SMITH 
 judged right when he took his print of the 
 lake from hence, for it is a gentle eminence, 
 not too high, on the very margin of the wa- 
 ter, and commands it from end to end, look- 
 ing full into the gorge of BORROWDALE. I 
 prefer it even to COCKSHUT-HILL, which lies 
 befide it, and to which I walked in the after- 
 noon; it is covered with young trees, both 
 ibwn and planted, oak, ipruce, fcotch fir, &c, 
 all which thrive wonderfully. There is an 
 eafy afcent to the top, and the view far pre- 
 ferable
 
 6z AGUIDETO 
 
 ferable to that on CASTLE-HILL, becaufe this 
 is lower and nearer the lake; for I find all 
 points that are much elevated, fport the 
 beauty of the valley, and make its parts, 
 which are not large, look poor and dimi- 
 nutive." 
 
 STATION III. A third ftation, on 
 this fide, will be found by keeping along 
 the line of more, till STABLE-HILLS be on 
 the right, and WALLOW-CRAG directly over 
 you on the left; then without the gate, on 
 the edge of the common, obferve two huge 
 fragments of ferruginous coloured rock, 
 pitched into the fide of the mountain in 
 their defcent. Here all that is great and 
 pleafing on the lake, all that is grand and 
 fublime in the environs, lie in a beautiful 
 order, and natural difpofition. Looking 
 down upon the lake, the four large iflands 
 appear diftinctly over the peninfula of STA- 
 BLE-HILLS; the LORD'S ISLAND richly dref- 
 fed in wood ; a little to the left,VicAR*s ISLE 
 rifes in a beautiful form, and a circular ifle. 
 RAMPS-HOLME, is catched in the line betwixt 
 that and St. HERBERT'S ISLAND, which tra- 
 vcrfes the lake in an oblique direction, and 
 
 has
 
 THE LAKES. 93 
 
 has a fine effect. Thefe arc the four moil 
 confiderable iflands on the lake. Under 
 FOE-PARK, a round hill completely clothed 
 in wood, two fmall ifles interrupt the line of 
 Ihore, and charm the eye in the paflage 
 from the VICAR'S ISLE to RAMPS-HOLME. 
 Another iflet above St. HERBERT'S ISLAND, 
 has a fimilar effect. All idea of river or outlet 
 is here excluded; but over a neck of undu- 
 lated land, finely fcattered with trees, diftant 
 water is juft feen behind the LORD'S ISLAND. 
 The white church of CROSTHWAITE is feen 
 under SKIDD AW towering to the Iky, the 
 ftrongeft poflible back-ground. The oppo- 
 fite more is bounded by a range of hills, 
 down to the entrance of NEWLAND vale, 
 where CAWsiy-piKEandTHORNTHWAiTE rife 
 in Alpine pride, outdone only by their fu- 
 preme lord, SKIDDAW. Their flcirts defcend 
 in gentle (lopes, and end in cultivated 
 grounds. The whole of the weftern coaft 
 is beautiful beyond what words can exprefs, 
 and the north end exhibits what is moft gen- 
 tle and pleafing in landfcape. The fouthern 
 extremity of the lake, is a violent contraft to 
 all this : FALCON-CRAG, an immenfc rock, 
 hangs over your head, and upwards a for- 
 
 reft
 
 94 A GUIDE TO 
 
 red of broken pointed rocks in a fcmiqircu- 
 lar fweep, towering inward, form the moft 
 horrid amphitheatre .that ever eye beheld, in 
 all the wild forms of convulfed nature. The 
 immediate border of the lake, is a fweet va- 
 riegated more of meadow and pafture, up 
 to the foot of the rocks. Over a border of 
 hedge-row trees, LOWDORE-HOUSE is feen 
 under HALLOW-STONE-CRAG, a Hoping rock 
 whofe back is covered with foft vegetation ; 
 beyond that, the awful craggy rocks that con- 
 ceal the pafs into BORROWDALE, and at their 
 feet a ftripe of verdant meadows, through 
 which the DERWENT ferpentizes to the lake 
 in filence. 
 
 The road is along BARROWSIDE, on the 
 margin of the lake, open and narrow, yet 
 fafe. It foon enters a glade, through which 
 the lake is fweetly fecn by turns. In ap- 
 proaching the ruins of GOWDAR-CRAG, 
 which hangs towering forward, the mind 
 recoils at the fight of huge fragments of 
 crags, piled up on both fides, through a 
 thicket of rocks and wood-, but there is no- 
 thing of the danger remaining that Mr. 
 GRAY apprehended here; the road being 
 
 care-
 
 THELAKES. 95 
 
 carefully kept open. Proceed by the bridge 
 of one arch over PARK-GILL, and another 
 over BARROW-BECK; here GOWDAR-CRAG 
 preients itfclf in all its terrible majefty of 
 rock, trimmed with trees that hang from its 
 numerous fiffures. Above this, a towering 
 grey rock riles majeftically rude, and near in 
 SHUTTENOER, a fpiral rock, not lefs in 
 height, and hanging more forward over its 
 
 C3 ' O O 
 
 bale. Betwixt thefe an awful chafm is for- 
 med, through which the waters of WATEN- 
 LATH are hurled; this is the niagara of 
 the lake, the renowned cataract of LOWDORE. 
 To fee this, afcend to an opening in the 
 grove, directly above the mill. It is the 
 misfortune of this celebrated water- fall, to 
 fail entirely in a dry feafon. The wonder- 
 ful fcenes continue to the gorge of BOR- 
 ROWDALE, and higher; CASTLE-CRAG, in 
 the centre of the amphitheatre, threatens to 
 block up the pafs it once defended. The 
 village of GRANGE is under it, celebrated 
 as well for its hofpitality to Mr. GRAY, 
 as for its fweet romantic fite ; and to 
 affirm that all Mr. GRAY fays of the young 
 farmer at GRANGE, is ftrictly applica- 
 ble to the inhabitants of thefe mountainous 
 
 regions
 
 9 6 
 
 regions in general, is but common juRicc 
 done to the memory of repeated favours. 
 
 On the fummit of CASTLE-CRAG, arc the 
 remains of a fort; and much fieeftone, both 
 red and white, has been quarried out of the 
 ruins. Vefiels, large and fmall, are cut in 
 the rock. A lead pan with an iron bow 
 was lately taken up ; lad year two mafles ot 
 fmelted iron were found in the ruins, and 
 probably were from the bloomery at the foot 
 of the STAKL in BORROWDALE. It is proba- 
 bly of Raman original, to guard the pafs, 
 and fecure the treafure they were acquainted 
 with, contained in the bofom of thefe moun- 
 tains. The Saxons, and after them the FUR- 
 NESS monks, maintained this fort for the fame 
 purpofe. All BORROWDALE, and the rec"bory 
 of CROSTHWIATE, were given to the monks 
 ofFuRNEss, probably by one of the DER- 
 WENT family, "and * ADAM DE DERWENT- 
 WATKR, gave them free ingrels, and egrefs 
 through all his lands. The GRANGE was 
 the place where they laid up their grain and 
 tithe, and alfo the fait they made at the falt- 
 
 fpring, 
 
 * Antiquities of FURNKSS
 
 T H E L A K E S. 97 
 
 fpring, where are ftill fome veftiges of the 
 works remaining below GRANGE, 
 
 STATION IV. From the top of CAS- 
 TLE-ROCK or crag, in BORROWDALE, there 
 is a moft aftonifhing view of the lake and 
 vale of KESWICK, fpread out to the north 
 in the moft pifturefque manner. From the 
 pafs of BORROWDALE, every bend of the ri- 
 ver, till it joins the lake, is diftinftly feen ; 
 the lake itfelf, fpotted with iQands ; the moil 
 extraordinary line of fhore, varied with all 
 the furprifing accompanyments of rocks and 
 woods; the village of GRANGE at the foot 
 of the rock, and the white houfes of KES- 
 WICK, with CRCSTHWAITE church at the lo- 
 wer end of the lake; behind thefe much 
 cultivation, with a beautiful mixture of vil- 
 lages, houfes, cots, and farms, round the 
 ikirts of SKIDDAW, which rifes in the gran- 
 deft manner, from a verdant bafe, and clofes 
 this fcenein the nobleft ftile of nature's true 
 fublime. The area of the caftellum from 
 eaft to weft, is about 70 yards; from fouth 
 to north about 40 yards. From the fum- 
 mit of this rock the views are fo fingu- 
 larly great and pleafmg, that they ought 
 H nevei
 
 98 A GUIDE TO 
 
 never to be omitted. The afcent is by one 
 of the narrow paths cut in the fide of the 
 mountain, for the defccnt of the flate, that 
 is quarried on its top. Thefe quarries will, 
 in a fhort time, fink it many feet below its 
 prefent height, and deftroy the laft veftige 
 of its ancient importance. 
 
 The view to the north is already dcfcri- 
 bcd ; all the vale of KESWICK, the lake, its 
 environs, all difplayed in the fineft order, 
 completely inclofcd with mountains, that 
 fwell with diftance, and conftitute an excel- 
 lent picture, pleafing and fublime. 
 
 To the fouth, the view is in BORROWDALE. 
 The river is fcen winding from the lake up- 
 ward, through the rugged pafs, to where it 
 divides and embraces a triangular vale, com- 
 pletely cut into inclofures of meadow, ename- 
 led with fofteft verdure, and fields waving 
 with fruitful crops, the ample return to the 
 laudable toil of the peaceful inhabitants. 
 This truly fecreted fpot is completely fur- 
 rounded by the moft horrid, romantic moun- 
 tains in this region of wonders ; and who- 
 ever
 
 THELAKES. 99 
 
 ever omits this COUP D 'OEILE, hath feen no- 
 thing equal to it amongft the marvelous 
 fcenes. 
 
 The views here taken in the glafs, in fun 
 mine, are amazingly fine. 
 
 This picture is reverfed from the fummit 
 of LAT-RIGG. 
 
 Mr. GRAY was fo much intimidated with 
 the accounts of BORROWDALE, that he pro- 
 ceeded no further then GRANGE; but no 
 fuch difficulties arc now to be met with ; the 
 road into BORROWDALE is improved fince 
 his time, at leaft as far as is neceflary for 
 any one to proceed to fee what is curious. 
 The road ferpentizes through the pafs above 
 GRANGE, and, though upon the edge of a 
 precipice that hangs over the river, it is fafe 
 by day. This river brings nomixture of mud 
 from the mountains of naked rock, and runs 
 in a channel of flate and granite, clear as 
 cryftal. The water of all the lakes in thefe 
 parts is clear, but the DERWENT only is 
 pellucid ; the fmalleft pebble is fcen at any 
 depth as in the open air. 
 
 H 2 The
 
 ioo A GUIDE TO 
 
 The rocky fcenes in BORROWDALE are 
 moft fantaftic, the entrance ragged. One 
 rock elbows out, and turns the road directly 
 againft another. BOWDAR- STONE, on the 
 right, in the very pafs, a mountain of itfelf, 
 the road winds round its bafe. Here rock 
 riots over rock, and mountain interjecting 
 mountain, form one grand femicircular fweep 
 of broken pointed crags, and rocky moun. 
 tains, nodding to each other in gloomy ma- 
 jefty-, weeds reft on their fteep fides, trees 
 grow from rocks, and rocks appear like 
 trees. Here the DEWRENT, rapid as the 
 RHONE, rolls his cryftal ftreams through all 
 this .labyrinth of embattled rocks.- The 
 fcenes here are fo fublimely terrible, the af- 
 femblage of magnificent objects fo ftupen- 
 doufly great, and the arrangement fo extra- 
 ordinary, as muft excite the moft fenfible 
 feelings of wonder, aftonifhment, and lurpriie, 
 and at once imprefs the mind with reveren- 
 tial awe and admiration. 
 
 The moft gigantic mountains that form 
 the outline of this tremendous landfcape, and 
 
 inclofeBORROWDALE,areEAOLE-CRAG,GLA- 
 
 RAMAR.A, BULL-CRAG, and SERJEANT-CRAG. 
 
 On
 
 THE LAKES. 101 
 
 On the front of the firft, the bird of JOVE has 
 nis annual neft, which the dalefmen are care- 
 ful to rob, not without hazard to the aflfai- 
 lant, who is let down from the fummit of 
 this dreadful rock by a rope of twenty fa- 
 thoms, or more, and is obliged to defend 
 himfelf from the attacks of the parent birds 
 in the defcent. The devaftation made ort 
 the fold, in the breeding feafon, by one 
 eyrie, is computed at a larnb a day, belides 
 the carnage made on the ferae natura. 
 GLARAMARA is a mountain of perpendi- 
 cular naked rock, immenfe in height, and 
 much broken j it appears in the weftern 
 canton, and outline of the picture. BULL- 
 CRAG, and SERJEANT-CRAG are in the cen- 
 tre-, their rugged fides concealed with hang- 
 ing woods. 
 
 The road continues good to ROSTHWAITE, 
 the firft village in this romantic region. 
 Here the roads divide i that on the right 
 leads to the wad-mines, and toRAVENGLASs, 
 that on the left to HAWK.SHEAD. Amidft 
 thefe tremendous fcenes of rocks and moun- 
 tains, there is a peculiar circumftance of con- 
 folation to the traveller, that diftinguifhes 
 H 3 this
 
 lea A GUIDE TO 
 
 this from other mountainous tracts, where 
 the hills are divided by bogs and mofles, 
 through which it is often difficult to pick the 
 way, which is, that the mofles here, where 
 any be, are on the tops of the mountains, 
 and the pafTage over or round them is never 
 very difficult. The inhabitants of the dales 
 arc ferved with fewel from the fummits of 
 the mountains, and the manner of procuring 
 it is very fingular: A man carries on his 
 back a fledge to the top of the mountain, 
 and conduces it down the moft awful de- 
 fcents, placing himfelf before it to prevent 
 its running amain. A narrow furrow is 
 cut in the mountain's fide which ferves for 
 a road to conduct the fledge, and pitch 
 the conductors heel in. A fledge holds 
 one half of what a horfe can draw. 
 
 The mountains here are feparatcd by 
 wooded glens, verdant dells, and fertile vales, 
 which form a pleafing contraft, and relieve 
 the imagination with delightful ideas, that 
 the inhabitants of thefe rude regions, are tar 
 removed from the want of neceflaries of life 
 for themfelvcs, their herds and flocks, during 
 the exclufion months from the reft of the 
 
 community,
 
 THE LAKES, 
 
 103 
 
 community, by winter fnows. About 
 ROSTHWAITE, in the centre of the dale, 
 fields wave with crops, and meadows are 
 enamelled with flowery grafs ; the little de- 
 lightful EDEN is marked with every degree 
 of induftry by the laborious inhabitants, who 
 partake nothing of the ferocity of the coun- 
 try they live in , for they are hofpitable, civiU 
 and communicative, and readily and chear- 
 fully give affiftance to ftrangers who vifit 
 their realms. On miffing the tract I was di- 
 rected to obferve, I have been furprifed by 
 the dalelander, from the top of a rock, wa- 
 ving me back and offering me afafc conduct 
 through all the difficult parts, who blufh- 
 ed at the offer of a reward. Such is the 
 power of virtue on the minds of thofe that 
 are lead acquainted with fociety. 
 
 The fhepherds only are converfant in the 
 traditional annals of the mountains, and 
 with all the fecrcts of the myfterious reign 
 of chaos, and eld night j and they only can 
 give proper information; for others who 
 live within the fhadow of thefe mountains, 
 are ignorant of their names. 
 
 H 4. " Return
 
 104 A GUIDE TO 
 
 Return to KESWICK by GRANGE, and if 
 the fun (hines in the evening, the difplay of 
 rock on the oppcfice more, from CASTLE- 
 ROCK to WALLOW-CRAG, in fuch high co- 
 louring, is amazingly grand. The parts are 
 the fame as in the morning ride, the difpo- 
 fitions entirely new. The cryftal furfacc of 
 the lake, reflecting waving woods and rocks, 
 backed by the fineft arrangement of lofty 
 mountains, interfering and rifing above 
 each other in great variety of forms, are 
 fcenes not to be equalled elfewhere. The 
 whole ride down the weflern fide is plea- 
 
 fant; the road is but indifferent. 
 
 . 
 
 "Whoever chufes an Alpine ride, of a very 
 extraordinary nature, may return through 
 
 BORROWDALE tO AMBLESlDE, OF HAWKS- 
 HEAD: A guide will be neceflary frum 
 RGSTHWAFTE over the STAKE, a mountain 
 fo called, to LANGDALE chapel. The ride 
 is the wildeft that can be imagined, for the 
 fpace of eight miles. Above the cultivated 
 tract the dale narrows, but the fkirts of the 
 mountains are covered with fweeteft verdure, 
 and have once waved with aged wood; 
 many large roots ftill remain, \yith fome 
 
 fcattercd
 
 T H E L A K E S. 105 
 
 fcattered trees. Juft where the road begins to 
 afcend the deep mountain, called the STAKE 
 of BORROWDALE, are faid to be the remains 
 of a bloomery, clofe by the water-fall on the 
 lefti but no tradition relates at what time 
 it was laft worked. This I could never ve- 
 rify from any vifible remains. The mine- 
 ral was found in the mountains, and the wood 
 ufed in fmelting had covered their fteep 
 fides. The mafles of iron found on CAS- 
 TLE-CRAG, were probably fmeltcd here. Ca- 
 taracts and water-falls abound on all fides-, 
 a fucceflion of water-falls will meet you in 
 the afcent up the STAKE, and others will ac- 
 company you down the moft dreadful defcent 
 into LANGD ALE : Thefceneu on the BORROW- 
 DALE fide are in part fylvan and paftorab 
 on the fide of LANGDALE entirely rocky. 
 The STAKE is a miniature of a very bad 
 Alpine road acrofs a mountain juft not per- 
 pendicular, and about five miles over. The 
 road makes many traverfes ib clofe that 
 at every flexure it fems almoft to return 
 into itfelf, and fuch as are advancing in dif- 
 ferent traverfes, feem to go different ways, 
 or to meet each other. In defcending the 
 STAKE on the LAUGDALE fide, a cataract 
 
 accom-
 
 106 A GUIDE TO 
 
 accompanies you on the left, with all the 
 horrors of a precipice. LANGDALE-PIKE, cal- 
 led PIKE A STICKLE, and STEEL-PIKF, is an 
 inacceflible pyramidal rock, that commands 
 the whole. Here nature feems to have dif- 
 charged all the ufclefs load of matter and 
 roek, when form was imprcfled on chaos. 
 PAVEY-ARK is a hanging rock, 600 feet in 
 height, and under it STICKLE-TARN, a large 
 bafon of water, formed in the bofom of the 
 rock, that pours down in a cataract at MILL- 
 BECKJ below this WHITEGILL-CR AC opens to 
 the center a dreadful yawning fiffure. Below 
 LANGDALB chapel, the vale becomes more 
 pleafing, the road good to AMBLESIDE or 
 HAWK.SHEAD, by SKELWITH-BRIDGE. 
 
 Mr. GRAY was much pleafed with an 
 evening view under CROW-PARK." In the 
 evening I walked alone down to the lake, 
 by the fide of CROW-PARK, after fun-let, 
 and faw the folemn colouring of the night 
 draw on, the laft gleam of fun-fliine fading 
 away on the hill tops, the deep fereneofthe 
 waters, and the long Ihadows of the moun- 
 tains thrown acrofs them, till they nearly 
 touched the hithermoft Ihore. At a did 
 
 ter-falls
 
 THE LAKES. 107 
 
 tance were heard the murmurs of many wa- 
 ter-falls not audible in the day time; I wifh- 
 ed for the moon, but me was dark to me 
 and filent, 
 
 Hid in her vacant interlunar cave." 
 
 STATION V. This view is feen to 
 much greater advantage from the fide of 
 SWINSIDE, a little before funfet, where both 
 the lakes are in full view, with the whole ex- 
 tent of rocky more, on the upper lake, and 
 flexures of the lower lake, with the whole 
 extent of the vale, when the laft beams of the 
 lun reft on the purple fummit of SKID- 
 DAW, and the deep made of WYTHOP'S 
 wooded brows is ftretched over the lake, the 
 effect is amazingly great. 
 
 STATION VI. From SWINSIDE, con- 
 tinue the walk by FOE-PARK. Thisisalweet 
 evening walk, and had the fun fhone out, 
 Mr. GRAY would have perceived his miftake 
 in being here in the morning. " October 5th, 
 I walked through the meadows and corn 
 fields to the DERWENT, and crofling it, 
 went up HOW-HILL, it looks along BASSEN- 
 THWAITE WATER, and fees at the fame. 
 
 time
 
 io8 A G U I D E T O 
 
 time the courfe of the river, and part of the 
 upper lake, with a full view ot SKIDDAW: 
 Then I took my way through PORT ING- 
 SCALE village to the park (FOE-PARK), a 
 hill fo called, covered entirely with wood ; 
 it is all a mafs of crumbling fkte; paffed 
 round its foot between the trees and the edge 
 of the water, and came to a pcninfula, that 
 ]uts out into the lake, and looks along it 
 both ways ; in front rifes WALLOW-CRAG and 
 CASTLE-HILL, the town, the road to PEN- 
 RITH, SKIDDAW, and SADDLE-BACK. After 
 dinner walked up PENRITH, road &c." 
 
 STATION VII. Another feled ftation 
 fora morning view is on LAT-RIGG, a foft 
 green hill, that interpofes between the town 
 and SKIDDAW. The afcent is by MONKS- 
 HALL, leaving ORMATHWAITE on the left; 
 and following the mountain road about due 
 eaft, till you approach the gate in the ftone- 
 wall inclofure -, then flant the hill to the 
 right, looking towards KESWICK, till you 
 gain the brow of the hill, which exhibits a 
 fine terras of verdant turf, fmooth as velvet. 
 Below you rolls the GREETA, and in its 
 courfe, vifits the town before it joins the 
 
 DERWENT,
 
 THE LAKES. 109 
 
 DERWENT, where it iiiues from the lake, 
 and then their united, ftreams are feen mean- 
 dering through the vale, till they are met by 
 the floods of BASSENTHWAITE, under the 
 verdant fkirts of WYTHOP brows. 
 
 The profpecl to the fouth is the revcrfe 
 of that from CASTLE-CRAG. The view is 
 full into the rocky jaws of BORROWDALE, 
 through which the DERWENT is fcen pour- 
 ing his cryftal ftream, that winding through 
 fome verdant meadows which fkirt the 
 rocky coaft, joins the lake at LOWDORE. 
 "The lake itfelf is feen in its full extent, cm. 
 bracing on all fides variety of more, its bo- 
 forn fpotted with diverfity of iflands. The 
 CASTLE-CRAG in BORROWDALE, (lands firft 
 of all the foreil of embattled rocks, whofe 
 forked heads reared to the fky, mine in the 
 fun like fpears of burnifhed fteel; and in 
 the rear LANGDALE-PIKE, advancing to the 
 clouds his cone-like head, overlooks them 
 all. What charms the eye in wandering 
 over the vale, is that not one ftreight line 
 offends -, the roads all ferpentize round the 
 mountains, and the hedges wave with the in- 
 clofures. Ail are thrown into fomc path of 
 beauty, or line of nature, To
 
 no A GUIDE TO 
 
 To defcribe every picturefque view, that 
 this region of landfcape prefents would be 
 endlefs labour-, and did language furnifli 
 expreflion to convey ideas of the innumera- 
 ble changes, in the many grand conftituent 
 objects in thefe magnificent fcenes, the ima- 
 gination would be fatigued with the detail, 
 and defcription weakened by redundancy. 
 It is more pleafing to fpeculative curiofity to 
 play upon, what it wifhes not to be infor- 
 med of, the difference among fuch fcenes as 
 approach the nearcfl in likenefs, and the 
 agreement between fuch as appear moft dif- 
 cordant; this is the fport of fancy, or the 
 refult of tafte and judgment, from felf-infor- 
 mation, and has the greateft effect on the 
 mind. The province of the Guide is to 
 point out the ftation, and leave to the com- 
 pany the enjoyment of reflection, and plea- 
 fures of the imagination. 
 
 Return to the gate, and enter the inclo- 
 fure; turn as foon as you can to the right, 
 having the wall at fome diftance, till you 
 arrive at the brink of a green precipice; 
 there you will be entertained with the noife 
 of the GREETA } roaring through a craggy 
 
 channel
 
 THE LAKES. in 
 
 channel with rapid courfc, that in a run of 
 two miles exhibits an uncommon appear- 
 ence, forming twelve or more of the fined 
 bends and fcrpentine curves that ever fancy- 
 pencilled. The point for viewing this un- 
 common fccne, is directly over the Alpine 
 bridge, which hangs gracefully over the 
 river. The town of KESWICK appears no 
 where to greater advantage than from this 
 ilation, HELVELLYN, in front, overlooks a 
 vaft range of varied hills, whofe rocky fides 
 are rent with many failures, the paths of fo 
 many roaring rills and cataracts, that echo 
 through the vales, and fwell the general tor- 
 rent. To the eaft CROSS-FELL is difcerned, 
 like a cloud of blue mift, hanging over the 
 horizon. In the middle fpace MELL-FELL? 
 a green pyramidal hill, is a fingular figure. 
 The eye wandering over CASTLE-RIGG, will 
 difcover the druid-temple on the fouthern. 
 fide of the PENRITH road. Return to the 
 path that leads down the ridge of the hill to 
 the eaft; arrive at a gate that opens into a 
 crofs road ; defcend to the right, along the 
 precipitous bank of a brawling brook, GLEN- 
 DERATERRA-BECK, that is heard tumbling 
 from the mountain, concealed by woods that 
 
 hang
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 hang on the ileep banks; in thecourfe of the 
 defcent, remark THRESKIELD-PIKE, brown- 
 ed with ftorms, and rent by a dreadful 
 wedge-like rock, that tends to the centre. 
 There are many paftoral cots and rural feats, 
 fcatcered round the cultivated fkirts of the 
 mountains of SKIDDAW, and SADDLE-BACK, 
 on this fide fweetly placed and pictupefque. 
 The northern fide is lefs hofpitable, being 
 more precipitous, and much concealed in 
 {hade. From the bridge the road leads to 
 THRESKiELD,andfalls into the PENRITH road 
 four miles from KESWICK. The laft brook 
 GLENDERATERRA, divides SKIDDAW from 
 
 SADDLE-BACK,CalledhereTHRESKlELD-FELL. 
 
 From the front of Mr. WREN'S houfe, the eye 
 will be delighted wiih the vale of St. JOHN, 
 fweetly fpread out in rural beauty between 
 two ridges of hills; LOTHWAITE and NAD- 
 DLE-FELLS, which in appearance lock juft be- 
 hind the CASTLE-ROCKS, thde have the mew 
 of magnificent ruins, in the center point of 
 view. A river is fcen on both fides the 
 vale, lengthening its courfe in meanders, till 
 it meets THRESKIELD WATER or GLEN- 
 
 DERAMACKJN-BECK at NEW-BRDIGE, where 
 
 it takes the name of GREETA, This picture 
 
 . 
 
 is
 
 THE LAKES. 113 
 
 is improved at the brow of the hill, 
 on the weftern fide of the houfe. Here 
 the GREETA is feen from the bridge, run- 
 ning under the hill where you ftand, and 
 on the right, comes forth in a fine ftream in 
 a deep channel, between fteep wooded banks- 
 In a field on the left, near the fecond mile- 
 poft, Hands confpicuous the wide circus 
 of rude ftones, the awful remains of the bar- 
 barous fuperftition of ancient times. Mr. 
 PENNANT has an excellent drawing of thefe 
 druidical remains. 
 
 STATION VIII. Another (ration re- 
 mains, and which ought to be an evening 
 one, in the vicarage garden. Mr. GRAY 
 took it in his glafs from the horfing-ftone, 
 and fpeaks of it thus : 
 
 " From hence I got to the parfonage a 
 little before fun-fet and, faw in my glafs a 
 picture, that if I could tranfmit to you and 
 fix it in all the foftnefs of its living colours, 
 would fairly fell for a thoufand pounds. 
 This is the fweeteft fccne I cam yet difcover 
 m point of paftoral beauty ; the reft are in a 
 fublirncr ftile." 
 
 I The
 
 H4 A GUIDE TO 
 
 The leading parts of this pi&ure are," 
 over a rich cultivated fore-ground, the 
 town of KESWICK. feen under a hill, divided 
 by grafs inclofures, its funimit crowned with 
 woodj more to the eaft, CASTLE-RIGG 
 fweetly laid out, and over it fweeps in curves 
 the road to AMBLESIDE; behind that, the 
 range of vaft mountains defcending from 
 HELVELLYN. On the weftern fide, the 
 chaos of mountains heaped on mountains, 
 that fecrete the vale of NEWLAND; over 
 thefe CAWSEY-PIKE prefides. Leaving thefe 
 the eye meets a well wooded hill on the 
 margin of the lake, mining in all the beau- 
 ties of foliage, fet of with all the advantage 
 of form. A noble expanfe of water, broke 
 juft in the center by a large ifland drefled 
 in wood, another cultivated and fringed 
 with trees, and a third with a hut upon it, 
 ftript of its late ornamental trees, by the 
 unfeeling hand of avarice. On the eaftern 
 fide, a bold more, fteep and wooded to the 
 water's edge-, above thefe, rife daring rocks 
 in every horrid fliape. A ftrange mixture 
 of wood and rocks fucceeds to the fouthern 
 extremity of the lake, where the grand pyra- 
 midal CASTLE-CRAG commands the whole: 
 
 The.
 
 THE LAKES. 115 
 
 The weftern fhore is indented with wooded 
 promontories down to FOE-PARK, the hill 
 firft defcribed on the lower margin of the 
 lake. The mountains all round rile imme- 
 diately from the lake, but thofe that torm 
 the outline to the fouth, are much broken 
 and picturefque. Thefc are the parts of 
 the fcene Mr. GRAY fays is the fweeteft he 
 ever faw, in point of paltoral beauty. But 
 whoever takes this view from ORM ATHWAITE, 
 in a field on the weftern fide of the houle, 
 will be convinced of Mr. GRAY'S lofs in 
 want of information. The very fpot he 
 flood upon is in the center of the fore- 
 ground, and is a principal object in the 
 paftoral part of the picture he praifes fo 
 highly. 
 
 Sailing round the lake opens a new field 
 of landfcape. Mr. GRAY neglected it, and 
 Mr. MASON thinks he judged well. Mefirs. 
 YOUNG, HUTCHINSON, and PENNANT fried 
 it, and admired it. Dr. BROWN prefers 
 failing, and landing on every promontory, and 
 anchoring in every bay. The tranfparent 
 beauty of the lake is only feen in the boat* 
 and it is very furprifing. The bottom 
 1 2 refembles
 
 ii6 A GUIDE TO 
 
 refemblcs a mofaic pavement of party co- 
 loured Hone, the fragments of fpar at the 
 depth of feven yards, fhine like diamonds, 
 or glitter in diverfity of colour j and fuck 
 is the purity of the lake, that no mud or 
 ooze defiles its bottom. Mr. PENNANT 
 navigated the lake, and his defcription is 
 more comprefied then any other, and gives 
 a diftindt idea of appearances from it. 
 
 " The views on every fide are very differ- 
 ent: Here all the poffible variety of Alpine 
 fcenery is exhibited, with all the horror of 
 precipice, broken crag, overhanging rock, 
 or infulated pyramidal hills, contrafted with 
 others whofe fmooth and verdant fides, 
 fwelling into immenfe aerial heights, at 
 once pleafe, and furprife the eye. 
 
 " The two extremities of the lake afford 
 moil difcordant profpects: The fouthern is 
 a compofition of all that is horrible; an im- 
 menfe chafm opens, whofe entrance is divi- 
 ded by a rude conic hill, once topt with a 
 caftle, the habitation of the tyrant of the 
 rocks-, beyond, a ferits of broken mountain- 
 ous
 
 THE LAKES. 117 
 
 ous crags, now patched with fnow, foar one 
 above the other, overfhadowing the dark 
 winding deep of BORROWDALE. In the re- 
 cedes are lodged variety of minerals, &c. 
 
 " But the oppofite, or northern view, is 
 in all refpects a ftrong and beautiful con- 
 traft: SKIDD AW fhews its vaft bafe, and 
 bounding all that part of the vale, rifes 
 gently to a height that finks the neighbour- 
 ing hills ; opens a pleafing front, fmooth and 
 verdant, fmiling over the country like a 
 gentle generous lord, while the fells of BOR- 
 ROWDALE frown on it like a hardened tyrant. 
 
 " Each boundary of the lake feems to 
 take part with the extremities, and emulates 
 their appearance : The fouthern varies in 
 rocks of different forms, from the tremend- 
 ous precipice of LADY'S-LEAP, the broken 
 front of FALCON'S-NEST, to the more diftant 
 concave curvature of LOWDORE, an extent 
 of precipitous rock, with trees variegating 
 from their numerous fiffures, and the foam 
 of a cataract precipitating amidft. 
 
 1 "The
 
 n8 A GUIDE TO 
 
 " The entrance into BORROWDALE divides 
 the fcene, and the northern fide alters into 
 milder forms-, a falt-fpring, once the pro- 
 perty of the monks of FURNESI, trickles 
 along the more; hills" (the refort of fhep- 
 herdsj with downy fronts, and lofty fum- 
 mits, fucceed, with wood clothing their 
 bafes to the water's edge. 
 
 " Not far from hence the environs appear 
 to the navigator of the lake, to the greateft 
 advantage, for on every fide mountains clofc 
 the profped, and form an amphitheatre al- 
 moft match lefs. 
 
 " The ifles that decorate this water are 
 finely difpofed, and very diftinct ; rife with 
 gentle and regular curvatures above the fur- 
 face, confift of verdant turf, or are planted 
 with various trees. The principal is the 
 LORD'S ISLAND, above five acres, where the 
 RATCLIFF family had fome time its refi- 
 dcnce; and from this lake took the title of 
 DERWENT WATER. 
 
 "St. HERBERT'S ISLE was noted for the 
 refidence of that faint, the bofom friend of 
 
 St.
 
 THE LAKES. 
 
 St. CUTHBERT, who wilhcd, and obtained 
 his dcfire of departing this life on the fame 
 day, hour, and minute, with that holy man- 
 
 44 The water of DERWENT WATER, is fub- 
 jedl to violent agitations, and often without 
 any apparent caufe, as was the cafe this day; 
 the weather was calm, yet the vaves ran a 
 great height, and the boat was tofied vio- 
 lently with what is called a bottom wind. '* 
 
 Dr. BROWN recommends as the comple- 
 ment of the tour of this lake, " a walk by 
 dill moon light (at which time the diftant 
 water-falls arc heard in all their variety of 
 found) among thefe enchanting dales, opens 
 a fcene of fuch delicate beauty, repofe, and 
 folemnity, as exceeds all defcription." 
 
 An expedition of this kind depends upon 
 the choice of time in making the tour, it is 
 better a little before, then after the full 
 moon. If the evening be ilill, the voice of 
 water-falls are re-echoed from every rock 
 and cavern, in all their beauty of found. 
 The fetting fun tips the mountain's tops 
 with golden rays-, and therifing moon gilds 
 I 4 all
 
 izo A GUIDE TO 
 
 all with her filver beams. The furface o* 
 the lake, that in the day appears blue as 
 glafs, or clear as cryftal ; reflecting the azure 
 iky, the deep green woods, or filver coloured 
 rocks, is now a fable mirror, ftudded with 
 the reflected gems of the ftarry heavens ; a 
 plain on which are pencilled by the filver 
 moon, the faint outlines and fhadows of the 
 hills, behind which Ihe labours i all is in 
 faint light, grave made, or folemn darknefs, 
 that increafes the vaftnefs of objects, and 
 fpreads with folemn horror the whole fccne, 
 that ftrikes the mind of the beholder with 
 reverential awe and pleafing melancholy. 
 An effect that nature can only produce, and 
 art but humbly imitate, 
 
 The chara&eriftic of this lake is, that it 
 retains its form viewed from any point and, 
 never afiumes the appearance of a river : This 
 is owing to the proportion of its dementions. 
 
 The fifti here are trout, perch, pike, and eel. 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 
 
 Having feen the glory of KESWICK, the 
 beauties of the lake, and wonders of the en* 
 virons, there remains apleafant ride to OUSE- 
 
 BRIDGE
 
 THE LAKES. 121 
 
 BRIDGE, and vifit thelakeofBASSENTHWAiTE 
 WATER. Meflrs.GRAY and PENNANT took 
 the ride, but did not fee the beauties of the 
 lake, either for want of time or proper in- 
 formation. 
 
 Mr. PENNANT fays, "Pafs along the vale 
 of KESWICK, andkeep aboveBASSENTHWAiTE 
 WATER, at a fmall cultivated diftance from 
 it : This lake is a fine expanfe of four miles 
 in length, bounded on one fide by high 
 hills, wooded in many places to their bot- 
 toms; on the other fide, by fields and the 
 fkirts of SKIDDAW. 
 
 "From Mr.SpEDDiNc's of ARMATHWAITE, 
 at the low extremity of the lake, you have 
 a fine view of the whole." 
 
 Mr. GRAY allowed himfejf more time for 
 particulars. " October 6th, went in a 
 chaife, eight miles, along the eail fide of 
 BASSBNTHWAITE WATER to OUSE-BRIDGE, 
 pronounced EWS-BRIDGE, it runs directly 
 along the foot of SKIDD AW. Oppofite to 
 WIDHOPE.BROWS, clothed to the top with 
 wood, a very beautiful view opens down to 
 the lake, which is narrower and longer than 
 that of KISWICK, lefs broken into bays, 
 
 and without iQands > at the foot of it, a few 
 
 paces
 
 122 A G UIDE TO 
 
 paces from the brink, gently (loping up- 
 wards, ftands ARMATHWAITE, in a thick 
 grove of Scotch firs, commanding a noble 
 view directly up the lake. At a fmall dif- 
 tance behind this, a ridge of cultivated hills, 
 on which, according to the KESWICK pro- 
 verb, the /un always Jhines\ the inhabitants 
 here, on the contrary, call the vale of DER- 
 WENT WATER, the DEVIL'S CHAMBER-POT, 
 and pronounce the name of SKIDDAW-FELL, 
 which terminates here, with a fort of terror 
 and averfion. ARMATHWAITE-HOUSE is 
 a modern fabric, not large, and built of 
 dark red ftone." 
 
 The fmgular beauties of this lake remain 
 yet unnoticed, viz. the grand finuofity of 
 three noble bays. 
 
 STATION I. From ARMATHWAITE. 
 the lower bay is in full difplay, a fine ex- 
 panfe of water, fpreading itfelf both ways 
 behind a circular peninfula, CASTLI-HOW, 
 that fwells in the middle, and is crowned 
 with wood. In former times it has been 
 fur rounded by water, from the lake on one 
 fide, and the afiiftance of a brook that de- 
 
 fcends
 
 THE LAKES. 123 
 
 fcends from EMBLETON, on the other. The 
 acceflible parts have been defended by 
 trenches, one above another. The upper 
 part has been occupied with building, the 
 veftiges of ruins are vifible ; and, like other 
 fuch places in this region, were probably 
 occupied by the firft inhabitants, as places 
 of difficult aecefs, and of eafy defence. 
 From the bottom of the bay, fome waving 
 inclolures rife to the fide of a green hill, and 
 fome fcattered houfes are fcen at the upper 
 end of a fine Hope of inclofures. The banks 
 of the lake are fringed with trees, and under 
 them the cryftal water is caught in a plea- 
 fing manner. At the north weft corner the 
 DERWEKT iflues from the lake, and is fpan- 
 ned by a handfome ftone bridge of three 
 arches. The whole weftern boundary is the 
 noble range of wooded hills, the WYTHOP 
 brows. On the eaftern more, the lake re- 
 tires behind a peninfula, that rufhes far into 
 the water, and on its extreme point, a foli- 
 tary oak, waving to every wind, is moffc 
 pi&urefque. This is SCAENSES. The 
 coaft upward is a fine cultivated tradt to the 
 fkirts of SKIDDAW, which raifcs here in aw- 
 ful majefty his purple front. Far to the 
 
 fouth
 
 124 A GU IDE TO 
 
 fouth, WALLOW-CRAG, with all the range of 
 rock, and broken craggy mountains in BOR- 
 ROWDALE, in fine perfpedtive , and on their 
 outline the fpiral point of LANCDALE-PIK.E 
 appears blue as glafs. The deep green 
 woods of FOE-PARK, and golden front of 
 SWJNSIDE, form a pleafing termination. 
 
 STATION II. Return to the road by 
 SCARENESS, and defcend from the houfe 
 to the oak tree, on the extremity of the 
 promontory. The lake is here narroweft 
 but immediately fprea,ding itfelf both 
 ways, forms two femicircular bays; that 
 on the right is a mile acrofs, the bay 
 on the left is fmaller, the fhore on both 
 fides finely variegated with low wood and 
 fcattered bulhes, efpecially the peninfula 
 itfelf. The upper bay is perfectly circular 
 and finely wooded. In front, WYTHOP 
 brows rife fwift from the water's edge; the 
 extremity of fome inclofures are pifturefque, 
 feen juft over the wood, with part of a cot- 
 tage; the village of WYTHOP lies behind it 
 in an aerial fite. A grafs inclofure fcooped 
 in the bofom of the hanging wood, and under 
 it, a cot, on the very brink of the lake, ftands 
 
 fweetly
 
 THE LAKES. 125 
 
 fweetly. The views downward are fine, 
 the banks high and woody to the bridge, of 
 which two arches are in fight -, behind it a 
 white houfe is charmingly placed. More to 
 the right, at the head of a gentle flope, in 
 the very center of view, ftands ARMA- 
 THWAITE, winged with groves , and behind, 
 at afmall diftance, are deep hanging woods, 
 and over them, fpreading far to the right 
 and left, a great reach of cultivated grounds. 
 This termination is rich and pleafing to the 
 eye. The view to the fouth is, as on the 
 upper lake, much foftned by diftance. In 
 the afternoon, and fun mining, the appear- 
 ance of the filver grey rocks, gliftening 
 through the green woods that hang on their 
 fiffures, is moft elegant. Behind, an appen- 
 dix of SKIDDAW rifes in rude form; and 
 over it, the chief of mountains frowns in 
 Alpine majefty. This view is well feen 
 from the houfe of SCARENZSS. 
 
 STATION III. The next remarkable 
 promontory is BRADNASS, a round green 
 hill, that fpreading itfelf into the lake, forms 
 a bay, with BOWNESS to the fouth. The 
 beft general view of the lake is from the 
 
 crown
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 crown of this hill, behind the farm houfc i 
 here you look over three bays finely formed. 
 Nothing can be imagined more elegant than 
 the fmuofity of this fide, contrafted with 
 the ftcep more and lofty woods of the oppo- 
 fite. The view upwards is not lefs charm- 
 ing, indented and wooded to the water's edge. 
 
 If thefe views are taken, beginning with 
 BRADNESS, then from SCARENESS take the 
 road to BASSENTHWAITE-HALLS, a few hou- 
 fes fo called ; and from the road on the north 
 fide of the village, called RAKES, you have a 
 very fine view of a rich cultivated traft, 
 ftretching along the banks of the lake, and 
 fpreading itfelf upwards to the fkirts of 
 SKIDDAW. The elevation is fuch that every 
 objedt is feen in full dimenfions, and every 
 beauty diftinctly marked. The lake ap- 
 pears in its full magnitude, fhaded by the 
 bold wooded more on the weft, and graced 
 by the fweet fpreading vale on the eaft, that 
 terminates in a bold ftile under the fur- 
 rounding mountains. The doping ground 
 to the bridge is charming, and the far exten- 
 ded vales of EMBLETON and ISSLE lie in fine 
 
 perf-
 
 THE L AKE S. 127 
 
 per r pective. The river DERWENT has his 
 winding courfe through the latter. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. CAER-MOT is about 
 two miles further to the north, on the great 
 road to old CARSLILE and WIGTON. It is 
 a green high crowned hill, and on its fkirt, 
 juft by the road fide, are the manifeft veftiges 
 of a fquarc encampment, incloied with a 
 double fofs, extending from eaft to weft 120 
 paces, and from fouth to north 100 paces. 
 It is fubdivided into feveral cantonments, 
 and the road from KESWICK. to old CARSLIIE 
 has crofled it at right angles, part of the 
 agger is vifible where it iffues from the nonh 
 fiae of the camp, till where it falls in with 
 the line of the prefent road. It is diflant 
 about ten miles from KESWICK, and as 
 much from old CARSLILE, and about two 
 miles weft of IREBY. 
 
 CAMDEN propofes IREBY for the ARBEIA 
 of the ROMANS, where the BERCARII Ti- 
 GRINENSES were garrifoned, but advances 
 nothing in favour of his opinion. The fitu- 
 ation is fuch as the ROMANS never made 
 choice of, for a camp or garrifon, and there 
 
 remains
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 remains no veftiges of either, by its being 
 in a deep glen, among furrounding hills, 
 where there is no pafs to guard, or country 
 to protect, a body of men could be of no 
 ufe. On the northern extremity of the faid 
 hill of CAER-MOT are the remains of a bea- 
 con, and near it the veftiges of a Jquare 
 encampment, enclofed with a fofs and ram- 
 part of 60 feet by 70. This camp is in 
 full view of BLATUM-BULGII (BowNss),and 
 OLENACUM (old CARSLILE), and comman- 
 ding the whole extent of the SLOWAY FRITH, 
 would receive the firft notice from any fron- 
 tier ftation, where the CALEDONIANS made 
 the attempt to crofs the frith, or had ac- 
 tually broke in upon the province -, the no- 
 tice would be communicated by the beacon 
 on CAER-MOT to the garrifon at KESWICK, 
 by the watch on CASTLE-CRAG in BORROW - 
 DALE. The garrifon at KESWICK would 
 have the care of the beacon on the top of 
 SKIDDAW the mountain being of the eafieft 
 accefs on that fide. By this means the alarm 
 would foon become general, and the inva- 
 ders were either terrified into flight, or the 
 whole country was in arms to oppofe them. 
 
 Whether
 
 THE LAKE S. 129 
 
 Whether thefe camps are the ARBEIA I 
 pretend not to fay, but that they were of 
 ufe to the ROMANS, is evident, and what the 
 BRITONS thought of them, is recorded in 
 the name they conferred on the hill, where 
 they are fituaicd. 
 
 The larger camp has no advantage of 
 lite, and is but ill fupplied with water. 
 The ground is of a fpungy nature, and re- 
 tains wet long, and therefore could only be 
 occupied in the fummcr months. They 
 fecm to have the fame relation to old CAR- 
 LISLE and KESWICK, as the camp at WHIT- 
 BARROW has to old PENRITH and KESWICK. 
 
 From CAER-MOT defcend to OUSE. 
 BRIDGE, and return to KESWICK np the 
 weftcrn fide of the lake. Every lover of 
 landfcapc fhould take this ride in the after- 
 noon-, and if the fun fhines,it is pleafant and 
 fine. The road branches off from the great 
 road to COCKERMOUTH a little below the 
 bridge, and leads through the wood, and 
 round CASTLE-HOW: In fome places it rifes 
 above the lake a c,onfiderable height, and 
 the water is fcen at intervals through a 
 K fcreen
 
 i 3 o A GUIDE TO 
 
 fcreen of low wood, that decks the banks of 
 the lake, which is fometimes entirely con- 
 cealed, and again fuddenly caught at breaks 
 in the wood. The road delcends to the 
 level of the water, and prefents you with a 
 variety of furprifing views in different ftiles, 
 that (hew thcmfelves in an agreeable fuccef- 
 fion, as the eye wanders in amazement along 
 the lake. 
 
 STATION IV. AtBECK-wvTHOp, the 
 lake fpreads out in a great expanfe of water-, 
 its outlet concealed by CASTLE-HOW. The 
 immediate fhore is lined with rocks, that 
 range along banks completely dreffed in low 
 wood; and over them WYTHOP brows, rife 
 almoft perpendicular. The oppofite more 
 is much variegated, and deep embayed by 
 the bold promontories of SCARENESS, BOW- 
 NESS, and BRADNESS. Juft oppofite to you, 
 a little removed from the margin of the 
 lake, and under a range of wood, fee the 
 folitary church of BASSENTHWAITE ; its back 
 guard is gloomy ULLOCK, a defccndant hill 
 of parent SKIDDAW, robed in purple heath, 
 trimmed with foft verdure. The whole cul- 
 tivated trad between' the mountains and the 
 
 lake
 
 T HE L AKES. 131 
 
 lake is feen here in all its beauty, and SKID- 
 DAW appears no where of fuch majeftia 
 height as from this point, magnified by the 
 acccnnpanyment of lefler hills that furround 
 his bafe. 
 
 Over the northern extremity of this ex- 
 panfe of water, the ground rifes in an eafy 
 flope, and in the point of beauty ARMA- 
 THWAITE is featedj queen of the lake, on 
 which (he fmiles in graceful beauty, and ele- 
 gant cafe. On each hand are hanging woods; 
 the fpace between confefles much cultiva- 
 tion, divided by inclofures, waving up to 
 farms feen under the fkirts of CAER-MOT, 
 the crown topt hill, that clofes this fcene 
 with the mod elegant form, and in the 
 fweeteft manner poflible. If the fun mines 
 you may be entertained here for hours with 
 pleafing variety of landfcape. All the 
 views up the lake, are in a ftile great and 
 fublime. They are feen in the bofom of the 
 lake, and, by reflection, foftened with pleafing 
 tints, and rich colouring. The magnitude 
 of objects is prefervcd, or but little di- 
 minifhed by the convexity of the watery 
 mirror^ but to the glafs is relerved the fini- 
 K 2 fhed
 
 i 3 2 A GUID E TO 
 
 fhcd picture, in higheft colouring, and juft 
 perfpc&ivc. As you emerge from the 
 wood, at the gate leading to the open fpace, 
 there is a magnificent bird's-eye view, KES- 
 WICK in the center of a grand amphitheatre 
 of mountains. Proceeding along the banks 
 of the lake, the road leads through THORN- 
 
 THWAITE and PORTINSCALE tO KESWICK. 
 
 A morning ride up the vale of NEW- 
 
 LAND tO 
 
 B U T T E R ME R E, &c. 
 
 This ride remains hitherto unnoticed, 
 though ore of the moft pleafing and furpri- 
 fingr in the environs of KISWICK. Com- 
 
 O 
 
 pany who vifit the vale of KESWICK, and 
 view the lake from CASTLE-RIGG: LAT_ 
 RIGG, Sw INS IDE, and the vicarage, ima- 
 gine inacceffible mquntains only remain 
 beyond the line of this amazing tract. But 
 whoever takes the ride np NEWLAND vale, 
 will be agreeably furpnfcd with fome of the 
 fineft folemn paftoral fcencs, they have yet 
 beheld. An arrangement of vaft mountains, 
 entirely new, both in form and colouring 
 
 of
 
 THE LAKES. 133 
 
 of rock. Vail hollow craters fcooped in 
 their bofoms, once the fecmin^ feats of 
 
 ' O 
 
 raging liquid fire; at prcfent overflowing 
 with pureft water, that foams down the 
 craggy brows in impetuous torrents ; woods 
 fkirt their bafe, and lakes lie at their feet, 
 clear as the DERWENT. The fofter parts 
 of thefe fcencs, are verdant hills patched 
 with wood, fpotted with variety of rock, and 
 paftured with herds and flocks. 
 
 The ride is along Sw INS IDE, and having 
 turned the brow of the hill, and paft the firft 
 houfes through which the road leads, obferve 
 at the gate on the right, a riew down a nar- 
 row vale, pleafing in a high degree. 
 
 The road winds through a glade, along 
 the fide of a rapid gurgling brook, that rip- 
 pies down a ftony channel j its water clear 
 as cryftal. At the hcdge-row-tree under 
 ROWLINGEND, a brawny mountain, turn and 
 have a new and pleafing view of the vale of 
 KESWICK. The road has a gentle afcent, 
 and the rivulet is heard murmuring below. 
 At the upper end of the cultivated part or 
 the vale, a green pyramidal hill, divided 
 K 3 into
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 into waving inclofures, looks down the vale 
 upon KESWICK, &c. The verdant hills on 
 each fide terminate in awful, rude mountains, 
 that tower to the fkies in variety of gro- 
 tefque forms, and on their murky furrowed 
 fides hang many torrents. Above GASGA- 
 DALE, the laft houfes in NEWLAND, no traces 
 ot human induftry appears; all is naked 
 folitude and fimple nature, in a variety of 
 fantaftic forms. The vale now becomes a 
 dell, the road a path. The lower parts are 
 pailured with a motly herd, the middle tract 
 the flocks afTume, the upper regions, to 
 man inacceflible, are abandoned to the birds 
 of JOVE. Here untamed nature holds her 
 reign in folemn filence, amidft the gloom 
 and grandeur of dreary folitude. The 
 morning fun beaming on the blue and yel- 
 low mountains (ides, produces effects of light 
 and (hade, the mod charming that ever a 
 fonof APELLES, or genius of RAPHAEL ima- 
 gined. In approaching the head of NEW- 
 LAND-HAWSE, on the left, a mountain of 
 purple coloured rock prefents a thoufand 
 gaping chafms, excavated by torrents that 
 roaring fall into a bafon, formed in the bo- 
 fom of the mountain, and thence precipita- 
 ting
 
 TH E L AKES. 135 
 
 ting over a wall of rock, become a brook 
 below. In front is a vaft rocky mountain, 
 the barrier of the dell, that oppoles itfelf to 
 all further accefs. Among the variety of 
 water-falls that diftinguifh this awful boun- 
 dary of rock, one catches the eye at a dif- 
 tance, that exceeds the boafted LOWDORI, 
 as much as CAWSEY-PIK.E does CASTLE- 
 RIGG, in height of rock, and unity of fall; 
 whilft the beholder is free from all anxiety 
 of mind in the approach; not one pebble 
 or grain of fand offends, but all is nature in 
 her fweetcft trim of verdant turf, fpread out 
 to pleafe her votaries. 
 
 Whoever would enjoy, with cafe and 
 fafety, Alpine views, and paftoral fcenes in 
 the fublime ftile, may have them in this 
 morning ride. 
 
 The road, or rather tract becomes lefs 
 agreeable for a few roods, not from any dif- 
 ficulty in the fineft mountain turf, where 
 roads maybe made at the leaft expence, but 
 from the dulnefs of the dalefmen, who habi- 
 tuate themfelves to tread in the tract made 
 by their flocks. It will not be labour loft 
 K 4 to
 
 136 A G U I D E T O 
 
 to walk a few roods, and fee a new creation 
 of mountains, as unlike what are left behind, 
 as the ANDES are to the ALPS. The con- 
 trail is really {Inking, and appear at once 
 on the fummit of the hill. On the right, 
 at the head of a deep green dell, a naked 
 furrowed mountain of an orange hue, has a 
 ftrange appearance amongft his verdant 
 neighbours, and fmks, by his height, SKID- 
 DAW itfclf. 
 
 Defcend the tract on the left, and foon 
 have in fight the higheft poffible contraft in 
 nature, in fublime Alpine icencry. Four 
 fpiral, towering mountains, dark, dun, and 
 gloomy at noon-day, rife immediately from 
 the weftcrn extremity of the deep narrow 
 dell, and hangover BUTTEREMRE. The 
 more fouthern is by the dalefmcn, from 
 its form, called HAY-RICK; the moic pyra- 
 midal, HIGH-CRAG j the third HIGH-STEEL; 
 and the fourth, from the ferruginous colour, 
 RID-PIKI. Between the fccond and third, 
 there is a large crater, that from the parched 
 colour of the conical mountains, in whofc 
 bofom it is formed, appears to have been 
 the focus of a volcano in fome diftant period 
 
 of
 
 THE L AKES. 137 
 
 of time, and the cones produced by explo- 
 iion. At prefcnt it is the refcrvoir that 
 feeds the roaring cataract you fee in the 
 defcent to BUTTERMERE. Here all is 
 barrcnnefs, folitudc, and filence, only inte- 
 rupted with the murmurs of a rill, that runs 
 unfeen in the narrow bottom of a deep dell. 
 The fmooth verdant fides of the vaft hills 
 on the right, have many furrows engraven in 
 their fides by the winter rains; and the fa- 
 ble mountains in front, prcfent all the hor- 
 rors of cloven rock, broken cliff, and moun- 
 tain ftrcams tumbling headlong. Some tra- 
 ces of induftry obtruding themfelves at; the 
 foot of the glen, difturb the folerrm folitude, 
 with which the eye and mind have been de- 
 lighted, and point out your return to focicty, 
 and that you approach the village of BUT- 
 TIRMERE, which is fituated betwixt thelakes 
 and confifts of fixteen houfes. The chapel 
 here is very fmall, the ftipend not large, and 
 though twice augmented with the queen's 
 bounty, exceeds not twenty pounds per an- 
 num. This is one of the cures Mr. PENNANT 
 mentions, but the perqufitcs of the clog- 
 ihoes, hardcn-fark, whittle-gate, and goof- 
 gate,
 
 138 A GUIDE TO 
 
 gate, the prefent incumbent does not enjoy. 
 The horrid dark mountains above defcribcd, 
 fcoul over the village, and the cataract from 
 the crater thunders down their fides. 
 
 The life of the inhabitants is purely paf- 
 toral-, a few hands are employed in the (late 
 quarries ; the women fpin woolen yarn, and 
 drink tea. Above the village you have a 
 view of the upper lake, two miles in length, 
 and much under one in breadth. It is ter- 
 minated on the weflern fide by the ferru- 
 ginous mountains already defcribed ; a ftripe 
 of cultivated ground adorns the eaftern 
 fhore. A group of houfes, GATISGARTH, 
 is fcated on the fouthern extremity, under 
 the moft extraordinary amphitheatre of 
 mountainous rock that ever eye beheld, 
 HoNiSTAR-CRAcrifihgtoan immenfe height, 
 flanked by two conic mountains, FLIET- 
 WITH on the eaft, and SCARF on the weftern 
 fide. A hundred mountain torrents form a 
 never failing cataract, that down the cenrte 
 of the rock, fall foaming headlong with 
 a thundering noife, and form the lake. 
 
 Mr.
 
 THE LAKES. 139 
 
 Mr. GRAY'S account of BARROWSIDE, 
 and his relation of BORROWDAL, are hyper- 
 boles, the fport of fancy that he was plcafed 
 to indulge himfelf in. A perfon that has 
 crofied the ALPS or APPENINES, will meet 
 with only miniatures here of the huge rocks 
 and precipices, the vaft hills, and fnow tope 
 mountains he faw there; and though he 
 may obferve much fimilarity in the ftile, 
 there is none in the danger. SKIDDAW, 
 HELVELLYN, and CATCHIDECAM, are but 
 dwarfs when compared with mount MAU- 
 DITE above the lake of GENEVA, and the 
 guardian mountains of the RHONE. Here 
 the rocky fcencs and mountain Jandfcape, 
 are divcrfified and contrafted with all that 
 agrandizes the fubjecT: in the moft fublime 
 ftile, and conftitutes a pifturc the moft en- 
 chanting of any in thcfc parts. It the roads 
 in fome places are narrow and difficult, they 
 are at leaft fafe ; no villainous banditti haunt 
 the mountains; innocent people live in the 
 dells. Every cottager is narrative of all he 
 knows -, and mountain virtue, and paftoral 
 hofpitality arc found at every farm. This 
 conftitutes a pleafing difference betwixt tra- 
 velling here and on the continent, where 
 
 every
 
 140 
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 eveiy innholder is an extortioner, and every 
 voiturinc an impofmg rogue. 
 
 The fpace betwixt the lakes is under a 
 mile, of pafture and meadow ground. The 
 lower lake, called CRUMMOCK WATER, foon 
 opens after you leave the village, and pafr 
 through an oaken grove. A fine expanfe 
 of water fweeps away to the right under a 
 rocky promontory, RANDON-KNOT, or BUT- 
 TERMERE-HAWSE. The road ferpentizes 
 round the rock, and under a rugged pyrami- 
 dal craggy mountain. From the creft of this 
 rock, the whole extent of the lake is difco- 
 vercd. On the weftern fide, the mountains 
 rife immediately from the water's edge, bold 
 and abrupt. Juft in front between BLEA- 
 CRAG and MELLBREACK. are two fpiral hills ; 
 the hoarfe refounding noifc of a water-fall 
 is heard acrofs the lake, concealed within 
 the bofom of the cliff, through which it has 
 forced its way, and when viewed from the 
 foot of the fall, is a moft aftonilhing pheno- 
 menon. 
 
 This lake is beautified with three fmall 
 ifles; one of rock lies juft before you. 
 
 The
 
 THE L A KES. 141 
 
 The whole eaftcrn fhore is diverfified with 
 bays, the banks with fcattercd trees, and a 
 few inclofures, terminated by a hanging 
 wood. At the foot of the lake a high 
 crowned hill pufhes forward, fringed with 
 trees, and fwcctly laid out with inclofures ; 
 and above it, on a cultivated (lope, is the 
 chapel of LOWES WATER, furrounded with 
 fcattercd farms; behind all, LOW-FELL fwclls 
 his verdant front, a fwect contrail to his 
 murky neighbours, and a pleating termina- 
 tion, feen from the top of this rock, or from 
 the bofom of the lake. 
 
 The chain of pyramidal mountains, on 
 each fide of this narrow vale, are extremely 
 picturefque, they rife from diftinc~b bales, and 
 fwell into the moft grotefquc forms, and 
 burft into rocky heads, ferarted here, and 
 broken there. 
 
 Thele lakes are of a much greater depth 
 than DERWENT, and may be the only rea- 
 fon why they hold char, and the other docs 
 not. The char in the fummer months retire 
 to the deeps, probably to avoid the heat. 
 The water here is clear, but not fo tranfpa- 
 ---- rent
 
 A GUIDE' TO 
 
 rent as the DERWENT. The outlet is at the 
 north eaft corner, by the river COCKER, over 
 which is a handiome ftone bridge of four 
 arches. This lake is four miles in length, 
 and almoft half a mile over in fome places. 
 
 LOWES WATER. 
 
 Proceed from the bridge by HIGH-CROSS, 
 to the lake of LOWES WATER. Having 
 patted through a gate that leads to the com- 
 mon, the lake fpreads out before you, a mile 
 in length, and of equal breadch, about a 
 quarter of a mile. The extremities arc ri- 
 vals in beauty of hanging woods, little 
 groves, and waving inclofures, with farms 
 feated in the Iweeteft points of view. The 
 fouth end is overlooked by lofty MELL- 
 BREACK, at whofe foot a white houfe, within 
 fome grafs inclofures, under a few trees, (lands 
 in the point of beauty ; the eaftern more is 
 open, and indented with fmall bays ; the op- 
 pofite fide is more pleafing. CAR LING- 
 KNOT prefents a broad pyramidal front of 
 fwift afcent, covered with foft vegetation, 
 and fprinkled with many aged folitary 
 
 thorns.
 
 T H E L A K E S. 143 
 
 thorns. On each fide the outline waves 
 upward in the fined manner, terminating 
 in a cone of grey rock, patched with ver- 
 dure. 
 
 r 
 
 This lake, in* oppofition to all the other 
 lakes, and the fall of the mountains, has 
 its courfc from north to fouth, and under 
 MELLBREACK. falls into the CRUMMOCK WA- 
 TBR. 
 
 This lake is of no great depth, and with- 
 out char, but it abounds, as all the others 
 do, in fine trout, &c. 
 
 An evening view of both lakes, is from 
 the fide of MELLBREACK, at the gate, under 
 a copicc of oak, in the road to ENNERDALE. 
 Nothing exceeds, in composition, the parts 
 of this landfcape-, they are all great, and lie 
 in fine order of perfpective. If the view 
 be taken from the round knowl at the lower 
 end of the lake, the appearance of the moun- 
 tains that bound it is aftoniming. MELL- 
 BREACK on the right, and GRASMERE on the 
 left, are in the points of diilance, on the 
 near fore-ground of this landfcape, and 
 
 betwixt
 
 i 4 4 A GUIDE TO 
 
 bjtwixt them, a ftupendous amphitheatre ot 
 mountains, their heads all broken and dif- 
 limilar, and of different hues-, their bafes are 
 fkirted with wood, or cloathcd with verdure. 
 In the center point of this amphitheatre, is 
 a huge pyramidal broken -rock, that feems, 
 with its figure, to change place as you move 
 acrofs the fore-ground, and gives much va- 
 riety to the fcenes, and changes the picture 
 at every pace. The picturefquc views here 
 are many; the fcenes, fome mixt, others 
 purely fublimc, all furprife and plcafe. The 
 genius of the greateft adepts in landfcape, 
 might here improve in tafte and judgment; 
 and the moft enthufiaflic ardor for paftoral 
 poetry, and painting, will here find an inex- 
 hauftible fourcc of ftudics, and magical 
 fcenes. 
 
 When the roads to ENNERDALE and 
 WEST-WATER are improved, they may be 
 taken in this morning ride ; SMITH'S views 
 of them arc the trueft likenefles. 
 
 From the Bridge at the foot of the lake, 
 afcend the road to BRACKENTHWAITE. At 
 the hedge alc-houfe, SCALE-HILL, take a 
 
 guide
 
 THE LAKES. 145 
 
 to the top of the rock, above Mr. BERTIE'S 
 woods, and have a view of CRUMMOCK.WATER. 
 entirely new. The river COCKER is ieen 
 winding through a beautiful, and rich cul- 
 tivated vale, fpreading far to the north, va- 
 riegated with woods, groves, and hanging 
 grounds, in every pleating variety. The 
 mod fingular objecl: in this vale of LORTON 
 and BRACKENTHWAI TE, is a high crown-topt 
 rock, that divides the vale, and raifes a bro- 
 ken craggy head over hanging woods, that 
 fkirr the (loping fides, cut into waving in- 
 clofures, varied with groves, and patches 
 of co pice wood. To the weft, a part of 
 LOWES WLTER lake is fecn, under a fringe 
 of trees at HIGH-CROSS. Behind you, aw- 
 ful GRASMERE, the SK.IDDAW of the vale, 
 frowns in all the majefty of furrowed rock, 
 cut almoft perpendicular to the center by 
 the water-fall of ages. The fwell of a cata- 
 ract is heard, but entirely concealed within 
 the gloomy receis of a rocky dell, formed 
 by the rival mountains, GRASMERE and 
 SILVERSIDE, whofe purple drefs is variega- 
 ted with filvcr-grey rock. At their fee c 
 He the mighty ruins, brought down from 
 the mountains by the memorable water- 
 L fpout,
 
 146 A GUIDE TO 
 
 fpout, that deluged all the vale in Septem- 
 ber, 1760. 
 
 After this, the mountains become humble 
 hills, and terminate the fweet vale, that 
 ftretches from the feet of BLACK- CRAG and 
 CARLINE-KNOT, fpreading itfeli into a coun- 
 try watered by the COCKER. 
 
 The ride down the vale is pleafant , all 
 the fcenes are fmiiing, rich, and rural. Every 
 dalelander appears to be a man of tafte, 
 every village, houfe, and cot, is placed in 
 
 the choiceft fite, and decorated in the fined 
 
 * 
 
 manner and flile of natural elegance. Not 
 one formal avenue, or ftreight lined hedge, 
 or fquare fim-pond offends the eye in all this 
 charming vale. The variety of fituation 
 gives diverfity of views, and a fuccefiion of 
 pleafing objects creates the defire of feeing. 
 
 The back view is under a wooded hill, 
 near the fifth mile-poft, and is fine. Here 
 return up the great road to KESWICK. 
 
 From KESWICK to PENRITH, feventeen 
 miles of excellently good road, through an 
 open wild country. ANTI-
 
 T H E L A K E S. 147 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. Upon HUTTON- 
 MOOR, and on the north fide of the great 
 road, may be traced the path of the Roman 
 road, that leads from old PENRITH, or 
 PLUMPTON-WALL, in a line almofl due weft, 
 to KESWICK. Upon the moor are the 
 traces of a large encampment that the road 
 traverfes. And a little beyond the eighth 
 mile-pod, on the left, at WHITBARROW, are 
 ftrong veliges of a fquarc encampment. 
 The Roman road beyond that, is met with 
 in the inclofed fields of WHITBARROW, and 
 is known by the farmers, from the oppofi- 
 tion they meet with in plowing acrofs it. 
 After that it is found entire on the common 
 called GRAYSTOCK-LOW-MOOR-, and laft 
 fummer they have formed a new road on 
 the agger of it. It proceeds in a right line 
 to GRAYSTOCK. town ; where it makes a flex- 
 ure to the left, and fo continues in a line 
 to BLENCOW, and is found in a plowed field, 
 about 200 yards to the north of LITTLE- 
 BLENCOW, pointing at COACH-GATE, and 
 from thence it pafies on the north fide of 
 KELLBARROW, and through Cow- CLOSE, and 
 was difcovered in making the new turnpike- 
 road from PENRITH to COCKERMOUTH, 
 which it croffed near the toll-gate; from 
 L 2 thence
 
 i 4 8 A GUIDE TO 
 
 thence it ftretches over WHITRIGG in a 
 right line, and is vifible on the edge of the 
 wood at FAIRBANK, and in the lane called 
 LOW-STREET ; from thence it points through 
 enclofed land, to the fouth end of the fta- 
 tion, called PLUMPTON-WALL, and old PEN- 
 RITH. It crofled the brook PETTERAL, at 
 TOPJN-HOLME. 
 
 In the year 1772, near LITTLE-BLENCOW, 
 in removing a heap of flones, two urns were 
 taken up, about two feet and a half high, 
 made of very coarfe earth, and crufled on 
 both fides with a brown clay, the top re- 
 markably wide, and covered with a red flat 
 Hone. Befides the alhes and bones, each 
 urn had a fmall cup within it. of a fine clay, 
 in fhape of a tea-cup ; one was pierced 
 in the center of the bottom part. The 
 place where they were taken up is called 
 LODDON-HOW, within 20 yards of the road 
 between PENRITH and SKELTON, and about 
 200 yards from the Roman road, and four 
 miles from the ftation. On the banks of 
 the PETTERAL, a few roods from the fouth 
 corner of the ftation r an altar was lately 
 found. Its height three feet four inches, 
 
 and
 
 T H E L A K E S. 149 
 
 - and near fixteen inches fquare ; it had been 
 thrown down from the upper ground, and 
 the corners broke off in the fall. The front 
 has been filled with an infcription, the let- 
 ters fhort and fquare, but not one word legi- 
 ble. On the right hand fide is the patera, 
 with a handle, and underneath the fecefpita. 
 On the oppofite fide is the ampula, and 
 from its lip a ferpent or viper defcends in 
 waves. The back part is rude, as if inten- 
 ded to ftand againit a wall. The emblems 
 are in excellent prefervation. 
 
 Thecaftrum is 168 paces from fouth to 
 north, by no within the fofs, which was alfo 
 furrounded with a ftone-wall; the ftones 
 have been removed to the fence wall on the 
 road fide, and being in PLUMPTON, is cal- 
 led PLUMPTON-WALL. 
 
 The ftation is a vaft heap of ruins, of 
 Hone building , the walls of great thicknefs 
 and cemented. The town has furrounded 
 the ftation, except on the fide of the PET- 
 TERAL. But whether the ftation took its 
 name from the river, as being upon its 
 banks, and was called the PETTRIANA, or 
 L 3 whether
 
 i 5 o A GUIDE TO 
 
 whether the ftation gave name to the river, 
 which is the lead probable, let him who can 
 determine. 
 
 The ftation is twelve miles and three 
 quarters from CARLISLE, five and a quarter 
 from PENRITH, about feven from BROUGH- 
 AM-CASTLE, and about eighteen trom KES- 
 WICK, whfre an intermediate ftation muft 
 have been between AMBLESIDK, and MORES- 
 BY, and between old PENRITH and MORESBY, 
 having CAER-MOT between it and old CARL- 
 ISLE, and PAPCASTLE between it and 
 MORESBY. The fummer ftation would be 
 on CASTLE-HILL, and the winter ftation on 
 the area of the prefent town ot KESWICK, 
 or on fome convenient place betwixt the 
 conflux of the rivers GREETA and DERWENT. 
 And it is more probable that the DERVEN- 
 TIONE of the CHORAGRAPHIA was here, 
 than at PAPCASTLE, which comes better in 
 for the PAMPOCALIA of the fame CHORA- 
 GRAPHIA. A ftation here would be an 
 efficacious check on any body of the enemy 
 that . might crofs the cftu aries, above or 
 below BOULNESS, and pafs the watch there, 
 and the garrifons at old CARLISLE, ELLEN- 
 BOROUGH,
 
 THE LAKES. 
 
 BOROUGH, PAPCASTLE, and MORESBY; for 
 it was impoffible for any body of men to 
 proceed to the fouth but by BORROWDALE 
 or DUNMAIL- RAISE, and a garrifon at KES- 
 WICK commanded both thefe paffes. The 
 watch at CAER-MOT would give the alarm 
 to that on CASTLE-CRAG, in the pafs of 
 BORROWDALE, and the centinel on CASTLET- 
 HEAD that overlooks KESWICK, would com- 
 municate the fame to the garrifon there ; fo 
 it is apparently impofllble that any body of 
 men could pafs that way. But if they at- 
 tempted a rout on the northern fide of SKID- 
 DAW, and over HUTTON-MOOR to PATTER- 
 DALE, the watch at CAER-MOT was in fight, 
 both of old CARLISLE and KESWICK, and 
 the garrifon of the latter might either pur- 
 fue, or give notice to WHITBARROW and 
 AMBLESIDE, to meet them in the pafs at the 
 head of PATTERDALE, called KIRKSTON, 
 which is fo fteep and narrow, and crowded 
 with rocks, that a few veteran troops would 
 cafily ftop the career of a tumultuous crowd, 
 who falling back upon each other, would m- 
 crcafe their deftruftion, in flying down a 
 precipitous pafs-, if they made good the 
 pafs, and turned to the eaft before the Ro- 
 L 4 MANS
 
 152 A GUIDE TO 
 
 MANS arrived, they would in that cafe be 
 harafied in the rear, till they arrived at 
 KENDAL, where the watchmen from WA- 
 TER-CROOK would be ready to receive them, 
 and then they would be attacked in front 
 and rear. That the ROMANS have had en- 
 gagements at KIRKSTON pafs, is evident 
 from the Roman arms that were lately found 
 in the adjoining mofs ; there are alfo 
 many heaps of ftones collected, which have 
 the appearance of barrows. 
 
 Thefe are the only pafles amongfl. the 
 
 mountains, that a body of CALEDONIANS 
 
 could attempt in their way to the fouth, and 
 
 thefe could not be fecured without a fiation 
 
 at KESWICK, and that could not be more 
 
 advantageoufly placed* than where the town 
 
 ftands, on the meeting of the roads from 
 
 the furrounding ftations, all about an equal 
 
 diftance, and at fuch a diftance as rendered 
 
 a ftation here neceflary, and the feveral caf_ 
 
 tellums, on CASTLE-CRAG, and CASTLE-HILL, 
 
 and CASTLET, ufeful in giving notice, and 
 
 guarding thefe important poits. That no vef- 
 
 tige is now viftble of a ftation ever being here^ 
 
 nor
 
 T H E L A K E S. 153 
 
 nor any notice taken of it by CAMDEN, HOR- 
 SLEY, and others, nor even a traditional re- 
 cord of its exiftence, are feeming difficulties, 
 which put the negative on what has been 
 advanced. That no veftiges remain only 
 proves that the place had been defaced at 
 an early period, when no care was taken to 
 preferve the memory of fuch remains, and 
 that the town occupies the whole area of 
 the ftation, and that the ftation had been 
 placed within the fite of the town, probably 
 in the lower part, facing the pafs of the 
 GREETA. In the wheel of the GREETA, a 
 meadow peninfulated by the river, juft below 
 the town, and called the GOATS-FIELD, there 
 are veftiges of a fofs, but too imperfect to 
 draw a conclufion from, in favour of the 
 ftation. The ground round the town is very 
 fertile, and has been long enough cultivated 
 to deftroy any remains; what have been 
 accidentally difcovered are gone into obli- 
 vion, and no change happening in the town 
 itfelf to occafion new difcoveries, the memo- 
 ry of what has been is fled with time. If 
 CAMDEN vifited KESWICK, he was fatisficd 
 with the then prefent ftate of the " little 
 town, which King EDWRAD I. made a mar- 
 ket.*!
 
 154 A GUIDE TO 
 
 ket. " The face of the country only drew his 
 attention. That HORSLEY never vifited thefe 
 parts is evident, from his miftaken account 
 of the road from PLUMPTON-WALL to KES. 
 WICK, which he fays paffcd through GRAY- 
 STOCK-PARK, this, had he but feen the 
 face of the country, he could never have 
 imagined. His miftake, and CAMDEN'S 
 filence, gave occafion to a regular furvey 
 of the faid road, and rinding the military 
 roads from PAPCASTLE, ELENBOROUOH, 
 MORESBY, AMBLESIDE, and PLUMPTON, 
 all concide at KESWICK, and for the other 
 reafons already afligned, it appeared evident 
 that a ftation muft be ibme where near. The 
 CASTLE-HILL above KESWICK, is afaithful re- 
 cord of the exiftence of a ftation in this coun- 
 try. Here was the feat of the ancient lords of 
 themanorotDER WENT WATER, probably rai- 
 fed on the ruips of the Roman fortrefs : But 
 after the heirefs of that family was mairied 
 to RATCLIFF'S, the family feat was removed 
 into NOTHUMBERLAND, and the caftle went 
 to ruins; and with the ftones thereof the 
 RATCLIFFS built a houfe of pleafure in one 
 of the iflands in DERWENT WATER. * The 
 
 name 
 
 * NICHOLEJON'S hift. of CUMBER, page 86.
 
 THE LAKES. 
 
 155 
 
 name CASTLE-HILL, being more ancient 
 than the laft errection is ftill retained. 
 At AMBLESIDE v/hen I enquired for the 
 Roman ftation, a few years ago, no one 
 could inform me, but upon one perfon 
 confidering the defcription I gave of it, an- 
 fwered, It is the caftle. The ftation at 
 PLUMPTON is called by the fame name; and 
 at KENDAL, the caftellucn that overlooks 
 the ftation, is alfo called the CASTLE-STEADS. 
 So here the CASTLE-HILL, is the place of 
 the fummer ftation, but being a fruitful 
 trad, and much plowed, I have not been able 
 to trace any appearance of a fofs or vallum, 
 and therefore the whole of this conjecture 
 muft reft upon the necefiity, or at leaft on 
 the expediency of a ftation here. Since the 
 writing- of the above, in a field below the 
 
 D 
 
 town, an urn with other remains were 
 found by the plow, and faid to be Roman; 
 
 ULLS WATER. 
 
 Thofe who do not chufe to go as far as 
 PENRITH, may, near the eighth mile-poft 
 turn off to the right; MELL-FELL, a round, 
 
 green
 
 15$ A G U I D E T O 
 
 green hill, will be onthe left to MATTER- 
 DALE; and into GOWBARROW-PARK, which 
 brings them upon ULLS WATER, about the 
 middle part of it, where it is feen to great 
 advantage. But here it rnuft be obferved 
 that fome of the greateft beauties of the 
 lake, and fweeteft fcenes, are entirely loft by 
 this rout. DUNMALLET, the greateft orna- 
 ment of the lake, with the whole of the firft 
 great bend remain unfcen, and much of the 
 dignity of the lake is thereby deftroyed. 
 It is therefore better to ride on to the gate 
 on the right, that leads to DACRE, and over 
 DACRE common, to the foot of DUNMAL- 
 LET. By this courfe, every part of the lake 
 will be viewed to the greateft advantage. 
 
 Mr. GRAY'S choice of vifiting this lake 
 was from PENRITH, up the vale of EAMON. 
 " A grey autumnal day, went to fee ULLS 
 WATER, five miles diftant; foon left KES- 
 WICK. road, and turned to the left through 
 fhady lanes along the vale of EAMON, 
 which runs rapidly on near the way, ripling 
 over the ftones ; to the right DALEMAIN a 
 large fabric of pale red ftone, with nine 
 windows in front, and feven on the fide. 
 
 Farther
 
 THE LAKES. 157 
 
 t archer on, HUTTON ST. JOHN, a caflle- 
 likc old manfion of Mr. HUDDLESTON'S. 
 Approach DUNMALLET, a fine pointed hill, 
 covered wirh wood. Began to mount the 
 hill, and with fomc toil, gained the fummit. 
 From hence faw the lake opening directly 
 at my feet, majeftic in its calmnefs, clear 
 and fmooth as a blue mirror, with winding 
 mores, and low points of land, covered with 
 green inclofures, white farm houfes looking 
 out among the trees, and cattle feeding. 
 The water is almoft every where bordered 
 with cultivated lands, gently doping up- 
 wards, from a mile to a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, till they reach the feet of the 
 mountains, which rife very rude and awful 
 with their broken tops on either hand. Di- 
 rectly in trout, at better than three miles dif- 
 tance, PLACE-FELL, one of the bravcft 
 among them, pufhes its bold broad bread 
 into the midft of the lake, and forces it to 
 alter its courfe, forming firft a large bay to 
 the left, and then bending to the right. 
 Defcended DUNMALLET by a fide avenue, 
 only not perpendicular, and came to BAR- 
 TON-BRIDGE over the EAMON. Then 
 walked through a path in the wood, round 
 
 the
 
 r 5 3 A GUIDE TO 
 
 the bottom of the hill, came forth where 
 the EAMON iffues out of the lake, and con- 
 tinued my way along the weftern more, 
 clofe to the water, and generally on a level 
 with it j it is nine miles long, and at wideft 
 under a mile in breadth. After extending 
 itfelf three miles and a half in a line to the 
 fouth weft, it turns at the foot of PLACE-FELL, 
 almoft due weft, and is here not twice the 
 breadth of the THAMES at LONDON. It is 
 foon again interrupted by the root of HEL- 
 VELLYN, a lofty and very rugged moun- 
 tain, and fpreading again, turns off to the 
 fouth eaft, and is loft among the deep recef- 
 fes of hills. To this fecond turning I pur- 
 fued my way, about four miles, along its 
 borders, beyond a village fcattered among 
 trees, and called WATERMILLOCK." Here 
 Mr. GRAY leaves us, and the greateft part of 
 the lake unfeen, and the moft picturefque 
 parts undefcribed: Thelaft bend of the lake 
 is Ipotted with rocky ifles, deeply indented 
 with wooded promontories on one fide, and 
 rocks on the other. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. Before you quit the 
 top of DUNMALLET, obfervc the veftiges of 
 its former importance 5 an areaot no paces, 
 
 by
 
 T H E L A K E S. 159 
 
 by 37, furrounded with a fofs, (till vifible; 
 flones ot the rampart ftill peep through the 
 grafs. The well, that fupplied the guard 
 kept here, was but lately filled up with 
 ilones. This fort muft have been of much 
 confequence in guarding the lake, and com- 
 manding the pafs; and maintaining a con- 
 nexion between the garriibns of AMBLESIDE 
 and BROUGHAM, being five or fix miles 
 diftant from the latter, and nineteen from 
 the former. There are ftrong veftiges of a 
 fquare fort on SOULBY-FELL, which commu- 
 nicates with this and the camp ac WHIT- 
 BARROW. 
 
 Oppofite to WATERMILLOCK, a cataract 
 defcends the front of SWARTH-FELL, in 
 MARTINDALE forreft. At SKILLING-NAB, 
 a bold promontory, the lake is contracted 
 to a fpan, but foon fpreads itielf again both 
 ways, forming a variety of iweet bays and 
 promontories. After a reach of three miles, 
 it winds, with a grand fweep, round the 
 fmooth breaft of PLACE-FELL, and making 
 a turn directly fouth, advances with equal 
 breadth towards PATTERDALE. The weftern 
 fhore is various. Drawing near the fecond 
 
 bend
 
 160 A GUIDE TO 
 
 bend, the mountains ftrangely interfe<5t each 
 other. Behind many wooded hills, rifes 
 STONE-CROSS-PIKE, and over all, deep 
 HELVELLYN mews his fovereign head. On 
 the weftern fide YEW-CRAG, a noble pile of 
 rock, fronts PLACE-FELL, where it weeps in 
 a cataract to the lake. GOWBARROW-PARK 
 opens with a grand amphitheatre of Ihining 
 rock, the floor of which is fpread with foft 
 green pafture, once fhaded with ancient 
 oaks, to which many decayed roots bear 
 witnefs. Scattered thorns, trees, and buihes 
 vary the ground paftured with flocks, herds 
 of cattle, and fallow-deer. The road winds 
 along the margin of the lake, clear as a 
 mirror, at every turn renewing fcenes the 
 fincft that can be imagined. At the up- 
 per end of GOWBARROW-PARK, the laft 
 bend of the lake, which is by much the 
 fineft, opens, fcattered with fmall rocky 
 iflands; the fhores are bold, rocky, wooded, 
 and much embayed. Pafs NEW-BRIDGE, 
 the road winds up a fteep rock, having the 
 lake underneath you on the left. From 
 the top, have a view under the trees both 
 up and down the lake. MARTINDALE- 
 EELL, a naked grey rock, on the opofit e 
 
 more>
 
 THE LAKES. 161 
 
 fhore, rifes abruptly from the water, to an 
 Alpine height, the effect is aftonilhing. The 
 rock you ftand upon hangs over the lake* 
 blue and unfathomable to the cyej an 
 ifland in the middle fpace has a beautiful 
 effect. This is the moft romantic, plcafing, 
 and terrible fituation upon the lake, efpecially 
 if the wind blows the furges of the wate r 
 againft the rock below you. The fhores 
 n both fides upward are very plcafing, and 
 the little decorating ifles are fcattered in the 
 mod exquifite tafte, and delightful order. 
 The ride along the banks, fince the repair 
 of the road, is charming. 
 
 The upper end terminates in fweet mea- 
 dows, furrounded on the right by towering 
 rocky hills, broken and wooded. MAR- 
 TINDAI.E-FELL is the oppofite boundary, 
 fkirted here with hanging inclofures, cots, 
 and farms. 
 
 The principal feeders of the lake are 
 GRVSDALE-BECK, on the weftern corner, and 
 GOLDRILL-BECK, which defcends from 
 KIRK.STON-FELL-, they enter the lake in a 
 freer manner than the feeder of DERWINT 
 M does'
 
 i<52 A GUID E T O 
 
 does, and make a much finer appearance 
 where they join the lake. 
 
 From the bridge in PATTKRDALE, GOLD- 
 RILL-BECK, ferpentizcs fwectly through the 
 meadows, and falls eajfily into the lake about 
 the middle of the vale. GLENCAIRN-BECK, 
 defcendmg from HELVELLYN, joins the 
 lake at AIREY-BRIDGE. 
 
 There is from the top of the rock, above 
 the inn, a very charming view of the lait 
 bend of the lake, which conftitutes one of 
 the fineft landfcapes on it, and takes in juft 
 enough for a delighful picture. The near- 
 eft fore-ground is a fall of inclofures, a rocky 
 wooded mountain that hangs over PATTER- 
 DALE-HOUSE, MARTINDALE-FELL, is in the 
 point of diftance on the right; fteep rocks, 
 and maggy woods hanging from their fides, 
 on the left; GOWB ARROW-PARK rifes in a 
 fine ftile from the water edge for the back- 
 ground; and a noble reach of water, beauti- 
 fully fpotted with rocky ifles, charmingly 
 difpofed, with perpetual change of rocky 
 more, fill the middle fpace of this beautiful 
 picture. 
 
 This
 
 THE LAKES. 163 
 
 This lake is of a. depth fufficient for 
 breeding char, and abounds with variety of 
 other filh. Trout of thirty pounds weight, 
 and upwards, are faid to be taken here. 
 
 The water of the lake is very clear, but 
 has nothing of the tranfparency of DER- 
 WENT, and is inferior to BUTTERMERE and 
 CR.UMMOCK WATER alfo in this refpecl. 
 The ftoncs in the bottom, and along the 
 fhores, arc coated with mud. 
 
 Mr. GRAY obferved, in viewing this lake, 
 the fame order as at KESWICK, along its 
 banks and facing the mountains , from the 
 parity of reafon, that the idea of magnitude 
 and magnificence are thereby increafed as 
 much as pofiible, with advantage of fore- 
 ground; and every objeft viewed this way 
 appears much higher than when feen from 
 an elevated ftation, which deprefles the di. 
 mcnfion, on which the idea of magnitude 
 and magnificence depend. This lake viewed 
 from any height except DUNMALLET, lofes 
 much of its dignity as a lake, from the num- 
 ber of its flexures, and juttings out of 
 M 2 promon-
 
 1 64 A G UID E TO 
 
 promontories, but it retains the appcaranc e 
 of a magnificent river ingulphed in rocks. 
 
 The bold winding hills, the interfering 
 mountains, the pyramidal cliffs, the bulging, 
 broken, rugged rocks, the hanging woods, 
 the eafy water-falls in fome places, and in 
 others the tumbling roaring cataract, are 
 parts Oi "the fublimer fcenes in this furprifmg 
 vale. The cultivated fpots wave upward 
 from the water in beautiful dopes, interieded 
 by hedges, waving with trees in the moil 
 pi&urefque manner ; manfions, cottages, and 
 farms, placed in fweeteft points, are the rural 
 parts, and altogether form the moft tie- 
 lightful charming fcenes. The accompany- 
 ments of this lake are difpofed in the moft 
 picturefque order, bending round its mar- 
 gin, and fpreading upwards in craggy rocks 
 and mountains, irregular in height and 
 Ihape, and broken topt, yet much inferior 
 in fublime height, and horrible grandeur to 
 the environs of KESWICK, and the dreadful 
 rocks in BORROWDALE. But in this opi- 
 nion we have Mr. CUMBERLAND againft us* 
 who having vifited and feen the other lakes 
 in dark unfavourable weather, when nothing 
 
 could
 
 THE LAKES. 165 
 
 could be feen, befides weeping rocks, flood- 
 ed roads, and watery plains, darkened by 
 fable clouds that hovered over them motion- 
 lefs, and concealed their variegated fliores, 
 entertained an unfavourable idea of them ; 
 and being more fortunate in a fine day, in 
 that part of the tour, v/here he vifited ULLS 
 WATER, he attuned his lyre in honour of 
 this enchanting lake, and fung its charms in 
 preference not only to WINDERMERE, 
 GRASMERE, and the vale of KESWICK, but 
 raifes it above the pride of LOMOND and 
 marvellous KILLARNEY. 
 
 Mr. CUMBERLAND In that fweet ode, rc- 
 prefents himfelf upon the banks of the lake 
 of ULLS WATER, bemoaning himfelf, and 
 the hardnefs of his fate, when the fun beam- 
 ing forth, blcfled him with a full difplay of 
 all the beauties of this enchanting lake. In 
 gratitude for fo fpccial a favour, in a true 
 poetic rapture, he dedicates the charming 
 ode to the God of Day, whofe partiality to 
 the lake of PATTERDALE he gratefully 
 indulges in the following harmonious num- 
 bers. 
 
 M a Me
 
 166 A GUI DE TO 
 
 * Me turbid Ikies and threat'ning clouds await, 
 Emblems alas! of my ignoble fate. 
 
 But fee the embattled vapours break, 
 
 Difperfe and fly, 
 
 Porting like couriers down the flcy; 
 The grey rock glitters in the glaify lake; 
 And now the mountain tops are feen 
 Frowning amidft the blue ferene; 
 The variegated groves appear, 
 Deckt in the colours of the waining year; 
 And, as new beauties they unfold, 
 Dip their fkirts in beaming gold. 
 Thee, favage WYBURN, now I hail, 
 Delicious GRASMERE'S calm retreat, 
 And ftately WINDERMERE I greet, 
 And KESWICK'S fweet fantaftick vale: 
 But let her naids yield to thee, 
 And lowly bend the fubjeft knee, 
 Imperial lake of PATRICK'S dale, 
 For neither Scotiih LOMOND'S pride, 
 Nor fmooth KILLARNEY'S filver tide, 
 Nor ought that learned POUSSIN drew, 
 Or darning ROSA flung upon my view, 
 Shall fhake thy fovereign undiilurbed right, 
 Great fccne of wonder and fublime delight ! 
 
 Hail to thy beams, O lun ! for this difplay, 
 
 What, glorious orb, can I repay ?. 
 The thanks of an unproftituted mufc. 
 
 The navigators of this lake find much 
 amufcment by difcharging guns, or fmall 
 
 cannon 
 
 * Ode to the Sun, page 18*
 
 THE LAKES. 167 
 
 cannon, at certain ftations ; the report is re- 
 verberated from rock to rock, promontory, 
 cavern, and hill, with variety of ibund, dying 
 away upon the ear, and again returning like 
 peals of tnunder, re-echoed feven times dif- 
 tin&ly. Oppofue to WATER-MILLOCK is 
 one of thofe ftacions. 
 
 The higher end of the lake is fourteen 
 miles from PEKRITH, and ten from AM- 
 BLESIDE, good turnpike road, only at 
 STAYBARROW-CRAG the road is cut into 
 the rock that awfully overhangs it, and is 
 too narrow. 
 
 Above GOLDRILL-BRIDGE the vale be- 
 comes narrow and poor, the mountains deep, 
 naked, and rocky. Much blue (late of an 
 excellent kind, is excavated out of their 
 bowels. The afcent from the lake to the 
 top of KIRKSTOM is eafy, there are many 
 water-falls from the mountains on both 
 fides. From the top of KIRKSTON to AM- 
 BLESIDE the delcent is quick. Some re- 
 markable (tones near the gorge of thepafc, 
 are called HIGH-TROUGH. 
 
 M 4 The
 
 i68 A GUIDE TO 
 
 The only lake that remains to be vifited 
 in this courfe is 
 
 HAWS WATER. 
 
 This is a pretty morning ride from PEN- 
 RITH, or it may be taken in the way to 
 SHAP, or fromSHAP and return toKENDAL. 
 There is alfo a road from POOLY-BRIDGE, 
 over the mountain to PONTON vale, a beau- 
 tiful fecrcted valley. 
 
 Afcending the road from POOLY-BRIDGE 
 to the fouth, from the brow of the commons 
 you have a grand general view of ULLS 
 WATER, with all its winding more and ac- 
 companyments of woods, rocks, and moun- 
 tains, bays and promontories, with all the flex- 
 ures of fhore to the entrance of PATT E R D ALE. 
 To the north eaft you look down on POOLY. 
 BRIDGE, and the winding of the river guides 
 the eye to a beautiful valley, much orna- 
 mented with plantations, in the midit of 
 which DALEMAIN is feated, queen of the 
 vale of EAMON. Turning fouth, proceed 
 by WHITE-RAISE, a large karned of Hones j 
 and near it, the remains of a fmail circus ; 
 
 ten
 
 THE LAKES. 169 
 
 ten ftones are ftill erect. A little further 
 on are the veftiges of a larger circus, of 
 22 paces by 25. All the ftones except the 
 pillar, are removed , it ftands on the Couth 
 fide of the circus -, the place is called Do- 
 VACK-MOOR. Here the vale of PONTON 
 opens fweetly to the view, afcending to the 
 fouth, and fpreading upwards in variety of 
 daleland beauty. At the bridge the road 
 turns to the right, and foon brings you 
 upon HAWS WATER. 
 
 Mr. YOUNG is the firft that fays any thing 
 pretty of this fwcet but unfrequented lake. 
 
 * " The approach to the lake is very pidhi- 
 refque : You pafs between two high ridges 
 of mountains, the banks finely fpread with 
 inclofures ; upon the right two fniall beau, 
 tiful hills, one of them covered with wood ; 
 they are moil plealingly elegant. The lake 
 is a fmall one, about three miles long, half 
 a mile over in fome places, and a quarter 
 in others j almoft divided in the middle by 
 a promontory of inclofures, joined only by 
 a ftrait, fo ihat it confifts of two fhcets of 
 water. The upper end of it is fine, quite 
 inclofcd with bold fteep craggy rocks and 
 
 mountains ; 
 
 * Six mon'.h's Tour, vo!. jd, page 168.
 
 i;o A GUIDE TO 
 
 mountains ; and in the center of the end, 
 a few little inclofures at their feet, waving 
 upward in a very beautiful manner. The 
 fouth fide of the lake is a noble ridge of 
 mountains, very bold and prominent down 
 to the water's edge. They bulge out in the 
 center in a fine, bold, pendant broad head, 
 that is venerably magnificent: And the 
 view of the firft meet of the lake lofing it- 
 felf in the fecond, among hills, rocks, woods, 
 &c. is picturefque. The oppofite more con- 
 fifls of inclofures rifing one above another, 
 and crowned with craggy rocks." 
 
 The narroweft part, by report, is 50 fa- 
 thom deep, and a man can throw a ftone 
 acrofs it. THWAITE-FORCE or fall, is a 
 fine cataract on the right, and oppofite to 
 it, the firft meet of water is loft among the 
 rocks and wood, in a beautiful manner. 
 BLEAK-HOW-CRAG, a ruinous rock, and 
 over it, CASTLE -CRAG, a flaring mattered 
 rock, have a formidable appearance-, and 
 above all KIDSEY-PIKE, on whofe fummit 
 the clouds weep into a crater of rock, that 
 is never dry. On the eaftern fide a front 
 of prominent rock bulges out in a folemn 
 
 naked
 
 T H E L A K E S. 171 
 
 naked mafs, and a waving cataract defcends 
 the furrow fide of a foft green hill -, the con- 
 traft is fine. At BLEAK-HOW-CRAG there 
 is a fine back view. 
 
 Above the chapel all is hopelefs wafte 
 and defolation. The little vale contracts 
 into a glen, ftrewed with the precipitated 
 ruins of mouldring mountains, and the de- 
 flruclion of water-falls. 
 
 KEN DAL is fourteen miles from the cha- 
 pel, and whoever chufes an Alpine ride 
 may proceed to it up this vale. From the 
 chapel to the top of the mountain, three 
 miles ; the defcent into LONGSLEDALE is as 
 much more. In approaching the mountain, 
 HARTFR-FELL fcouls forward in all the 
 terrific grandeur of hanging rock. As 
 you approach it, a yawning chafm appears 
 to divide it upwards from the bafe, and 
 within it, is heard the hoarfe noifc of in- 
 gulphed waters; the harmony of cataracts 
 and water-falls on all fides, add much to 
 the folemnity of the tremendous fcenes. 
 The path foon becomes winding, fleep, and 
 narrow, and is the only poffible one acrofs 
 
 the
 
 i 7 a A GUIDE TC 
 
 the mountain. A roaring cataract on the 
 left accompanies you during the afcent. 
 On the fummit of the mountain, you foon 
 come in fight of LONGSLEDALE, LANCAS- 
 TER fands, &c, and will prefently be ac- 
 companied with a cataract, on the right, 
 in the courfe of the defeent. The road tra- 
 verfes the mountain as on the other fide, 
 but is much better made, and wider, on ac- 
 count of the (late, taken from the fides of 
 thefe mountains, and carried toKENDAL, &c. 
 The water-falls on the right are extreme- 
 ly curious. You enter LONGSLEDALE be- 
 tween two mattered rocky mountains -, that on 
 the left, CROWE ARROW, is not lefs terrible to 
 look up at, when under it, than any rock in 
 BARROWSIDE or BORROWDALE, and has co- 
 vered a much larger fpace with ruins. 
 Here is all the pofiible variety of water-falls 
 and cataracts ; the moft remarkable is on 
 the left; over a moft tremendous wall of 
 rock, a mountain torrent, in one unbroken, 
 meet, leaps headlong one hundred yards, 
 and more. The whole val . is narrow ; the 
 the hills rife fwift on each hand, their brows 
 are wooded, their feet covered with grafs, 
 
 or cultivated, their fummits broken. The 
 
 road
 
 T H E L A K E S. 173 
 
 road along the vale is tolerable, and joins 
 the great road at WATCH-YATE, about four 
 miles from KENDAL 
 
 HAWS WATER may be taken firft in the 
 morning:, and then crofs the mountain by 
 the road to POOLY-BRIDGE for ULLS WA- 
 TER, and return in the evening to 
 
 P E N R I T H. 
 
 So much is already faid of this fweet town 
 that nothing remains new to be added here. 
 The fituation is pleafant, open to the fouth. 
 It is tolerably well built, and rather a 
 genteel than a trading town. The town's 
 people are civil, the inns commodious and 
 well ferved ; the company are polite and 
 communicative to ftran gers. 
 
 Befide the few refident families, the life 
 of tlm town is, the being a thorough-fare for 
 travellers ; for although it be feated in the 
 midft of a rich and fruitful country, no ma- 
 nufacturers have been induced to fix here. 
 Before the intercft of the filter kingdoms 
 
 became
 
 f;4 A GUIDE TO 
 
 became one, PENRITH was a place of un- 
 certain tranquility, and too precarious for 
 the repofe of trade and manual induftry ; 
 being better circumftanced for a place of 
 arms and military exercife. Yet fmcc the 
 happy change of fpirit, no more than one 
 branch of tanning, and a fmall manufacture 
 of checks have taken place. This muft be 
 owing to vrant of attention in the people of 
 property , or of induftry in the inhabitants ; 
 the latter is not to be fuppofcd, for the 
 fpirit of agriculture, introduced by the gen- 
 tlemen of the environs, is in as flourifhing 
 a way amongft the farmers of this neigh- 
 bourhood, as in other parts of the kingdom. 
 The fuperfluities of the market are bought 
 up for KENDAL, where much of that is 
 wanting which fuperabounds here. 
 
 The moft remarkable objects here are 
 the beacon, on the fummit of the hill above 
 the town, and the awful remains of a royal 
 fortrefs, on the creft of the rifing ground 
 that commands the town. It is fuppofed 
 to be an erection of HENRY VI. out of 
 the ruins of a more ancient flructurc called 
 MAYBURGH, but this is not very probable ; 
 
 fmcc
 
 THE LAKES. 175 
 
 fince flones are eafier quarried here than 
 they could be got there. But as popular 
 records have always fomc fact to reft upon, 
 and truth in the bottom, lo forne facings 
 and other principal ftones being taken 
 from MAYBURGH, gave rife to the tradition; 
 there might alfo have been a flrong hold 
 here in the time of the ROMANS. At pre- 
 fent the buildings are ruins in the laft ftage. 
 One ftone arched vault remains, that from 
 its Situation, has been the keep, no longer 
 terrible fince the border fervice ceafed, and 
 the mutual intercourfe of trade and alliance 
 happily taken place of national reprifals, 
 and family feuds. 
 
 The antiquity of this town is fuppofed to 
 be found in its name, being of Britifli deri- 
 vation, from PEN and RHUDD, fignifying, in 
 that language, a red head or hill , and fuch 
 is the colour of the hill above the town, and 
 the ground and ftones around it. But, 
 with refpecl: to fituation, it may as well be 
 derived from PEN, the head, and RHYN, a 
 promontory, and fo be referred to the beacon 
 hill. But it may bejudged a more honourable 
 etymon to derive the name from PEN and 
 
 RHYDD
 
 176 A GUIDE TO 
 
 RHYDD, of RHYDDHAU to make free, 
 and that on account of fpecial fervice or 
 fidelity to the Roman government, the BRI- 
 TONS of this town were emancipated from 
 the abject flavery, that the nation in gene- 
 ral were fubjected to by their tyrannical ma- 
 fters; and on that occafion the town was 
 made free, and the inhabitants were ho- 
 noured with the title of principal free-men* 
 which they tranflated into their own lan- 
 guage by PENRHYDD, and was pronounced 
 by the BRITONS, as by the WELCH at this 
 day, PENRITH. It has been the happinels 
 of this town to remain a royal franchife 
 through all the ages of feudal fervitude, at 
 leaft fince the reign of EDWARD I. without 
 the incumbrance of a charter, and is peace- 
 ably governed by the fteward of the ho- 
 nours, and a free jury. The honours of 
 both town and caftle belong to the truly 
 noble Duke of PORTLAND. In the church- 
 yard are fome fepulchral monuments, which 
 have long been the fubjccT: of antiquarian 
 fpeculation, not yet decided. Thus much is 
 evident that the pillars are of one ftone, 
 formed like the ancient fpears ; the mafts 
 round for about feven tcet high ; above that, 
 
 they
 
 THE L AKES. 177 
 
 they appear to be fquare, and to have ter- 
 minated in a point. They are about ten 
 feet high, ftand parallel with the church, 
 ciiuant from each ether fifteen feet-, the 
 fpace between is inclofed with circular ftones, 
 by fome conjectured to reprefent boars. 
 There remains vifible, on the upper part 
 of the pillars, fome ornamental work, but 
 no infcrij. tion or figures appear at prefcnt* 
 and the ftones are fo much fretted by time, 
 that it refts upon meer conjecture to affirm 
 there ever were any fuch. They probably 
 irark the tomb of fome great man, or 
 family, before the cuftom was introduced 
 of interring within churches, and are proba- 
 bly Bntim, or muft be Saxon. 
 
 There are manv pleafing rides in the en- 
 virons of PENRILH j moft of them lead to 
 curious rema'ns, or ancient monuments, or 
 modern improvements. In WHINFIELD- 
 PARK arethe COUNTESS-PILLAR, the WHITE- 
 HART-TREE, and the THREE-BROTHER- 
 TREE. The firft is a filial tribute of Ax* 
 Countcfs Dowager of PEMBROKE, to the 
 inerrory of her pious mother, MARY Coun- 
 ttfs Dowager of CUMBERLAND ; the others 
 N are
 
 178. A GUIDE TO 
 
 are the remains of aged oaks, that have 
 long outlived their own ftrength ; one of 
 them is upwards of nine yards in circum- 
 ference. BROUGHAM caftle is an awful 
 ruin, the BROVONIACUM of the ROMANS, 
 and fince that the bulwark of WESTMOR- 
 LAND on that fide, and the pride of its 
 earls, for many defcents. In a gallery over- 
 head, is a ftone with a Roman fepulchral 
 infcription, much defaced. At LITTLE- 
 SALKELD is the largeft druidical circle in 
 the northern parts. Near EAMONT-BRIDOE 
 is ARTHUR'S ROUND-TABLE and at a fmall 
 diftance from it, is MAYBOROUGH, both of 
 remote antiquity, and doubtful ufe. The 
 firft may be preiumed to have been a place 
 of public exhibition tor maitial exercifes, 
 and the latter has the conditions of a Bri- 
 tifli fort; but the rude pillar inclines fome 
 to believe it the remains of a druid tem- 
 ple. It is entirely formed of loofe Hones and 
 pebbles, collected from the adjacent rivers 
 and fields-, that the height has once been 
 great, may be collected from the vaft breadth 
 ot the bafe, encreafed by the fall of ftoncs 
 from the top ; it inclofes a circular area of 80 
 yards or more, and near the middle ftands 
 
 a red
 
 T H E L A K E S. 179 
 
 a red ftone, upwards of three yards high; 
 the entrance is on the eaitc-rn fiJe, and 
 opens to a fwect vew ot BROUGHAM H >USE, 
 to which the ru'le pillar, when whitened, 
 (and of this Mr. BROUGHAM is very careful,) 
 is a fine obeli k. It the name ot this very 
 extraordinary monument was BREIN-GWIN, 
 then Mr. PENNANT, troni ROWLAND, has 
 pointed out the ufe or" "a fupremc confifto- 
 ry of druidical adminiftration, as the Britim. 
 name imports." But if the prelent name 
 be a Saxon corruption ot the ancient name> 
 which probably was MYFIRION, by the SAX- 
 ONS pronounced MAYBiRiON,orMAYBiR,and 
 to bring it ftill nedrer to their own language, 
 MAYBOROUGH; then this conjecture being 
 admitted, it will fignity a place of ftudy ana 
 contemplation.* Such places the druids 
 had, and were the public fchools deftined 
 for the colloquial inftruflion ot pupils in 
 myfteries of religion, aud the arcana of 
 civil government. Druhical remains are 
 frequent in this neighbourhood, many of 
 them are analogous, but MAYBOROUGH is 
 fuch a ftupendous conftruction, that it muft 
 have been defigned for fome extraordinary 
 ufe. N 2 From 
 
 * JMona antiqua, page 84.
 
 i go A GUIDE TO 
 
 From the beacon the views are many, all 
 extenfive and vaft : The eye is in the center 
 of a plane inclofed with a circle of ftupen- 
 dous mountains of various forms, and awful 
 heights. The plane itfelf is adorned with 
 many ancient towns, and more ancient caf- 
 tles, ftations, and cailellums, where the Ro- 
 man eagle long diiplayed her wings-, but 
 in thtfe more happy days is poflefied by a 
 happier people, who enjoy, wit^i freedom, 
 their plealant feats, and charming manfions, 
 that meet the eye which ever way the 
 head is turned, marked with all the refine- 
 ments of liberal tafte, andflounfhinginduftry. 
 
 HAWS WATER my be conveniently vifi- 
 ted from PENRITH, returning from it by 
 the ruins ot SHAP or HEPPE abbey to 
 SHAP. The remains of this abbey are in- 
 confiderable, ycrpicturefquei a fquare tower 
 with piked windows is the chief part of the 
 ruins, and does honour to the reign of King 
 JOHN, when it was built, for canons of the 
 prcemonitratenfian order, that had been firft 
 placed near PRESTON-PATRICK in KENDAL, 
 by 'I HOMAS, fon of GOSPATRICK. 
 
 This
 
 THE LAKES. 181 
 
 This abbey was dedicated by the firft: 
 founder to St. MARY MAGDALENE, and he 
 endowed it with a large portion ot hi; lands, 
 in PRESTON in KENDAL. His fon tranfla- 
 ted it to MAGDALENE vale, near SHAP, and 
 further endowed it with the lands of KAROL, 
 or KARLWATH. ROBERT DE VETERIPONT 
 (VIPONT) firft Lord of WESTMORLAND? 
 confirmed the precedent grants, and added 
 to that of MATILDA his mother, and IVE 
 his brother, the tithes of all his mills, and 
 of game killed in his lands, in WESTMOR- 
 LAND. This grant is dated on Saturday 
 April 24th, ijth of King JOHN. 
 
 From this fequeftered fpot continue the 
 rout to the village of SHAP, a proper place 
 for refrefhment before you face SHAP fells, 
 a dreary melancholy tract of twelve miles- 
 On the caft fide of the road, foon after you 
 leave the village, obferve a double range of 
 huge granites, pitched in the ground, and at 
 fomediftancefrom each other, leading to cir- 
 cles of 1m all ftoncs, and encreafing the f r ace 
 between the rows as they approach the cir- 
 cles, where the avenue is about 27 paces 
 I hey are fuppofed to have run quite 
 N 3 through
 
 i& 2 A GUIDE TO 
 
 through the village, and terminated in a 
 point. It has long embarrafled the antiqua- 
 ries, what to call this very uncommon 
 monument of ancient Chronology, Mr. PEV- 
 NAKT has givm a plaufible explanation of 
 U from OLAUS MAGNUS, and fuppofes them 
 to be the record ingr ftones of a Danifh vic- 
 tory obtained on the fpot, and the ftony 
 circles to be the grateful tribute to the 
 memory of confanguineous heroes (lain in 
 the action. 
 
 There is at a f nail diftance to the eaft 
 from thefc ftones a fpring, called SHAP- 
 SPAW, in fmell and taftc like that of HAR- 
 ROWGATE, much frequented by the people 
 of the country for fcorbutic complaints, 
 and erruptions of the fkin. Leaving 
 behind you this gloomy region of black 
 moors and fhapeleis mounta'ns, approach 
 a charming vale, which Mr. YOUNG in his 
 elegant manner defcribes thus, 
 
 " After crofting this dreary tract, the firft 
 appearance of a good country is moft ex- 
 quifuly fine; abr>ut three mijes from KEN- 
 DAL, you at oace look down from off this 
 
 defolatc
 
 THE LAKE S. 183 
 
 defolate country upon one of the fineft land- 
 fcapes in the world; a noble range of fertile 
 inclofures richly enamelled with moft beauti- 
 ful verdure: And coming to the brow of 
 the hill have a moft elegant picturelque 
 view of a variegated tract of waving inclo- 
 iures, fpreading over hills, and hanging to 
 the eye in the moft picturcfque and pleafing 
 manner that fancy can conceive. Three 
 hills in particular are overlooked, cut into 
 inclofures in a charming ftile, of themfelves 
 forming a moft elegant landfcapc, and wor- 
 thy the imitation of thofe who would give 
 the embellimments of art to the fimplicity 
 of nature. " 
 
 The flation from whence this defcription is 
 taken, is about the midway between the third 
 and fourth mile- (tone, on the top of a rock 
 on the eaft fide of the road, called STONE- 
 CRAG, which cannot be miftaken. The 
 three hills referred to in the defcription, 
 are on the near ground of the landfcape. 
 There are many beautiful hills and knowls 
 fcattcred about the vallfy, fome cultivated, 
 others covered with wood, or mining in the 
 fofteft verdure. But the mjft remarkable 
 N 4 for
 
 x84 A GUIDE TO 
 
 for picturefque form, is an oval green hill 
 crowned with the ruins of a caftle; it divides 
 the valley, and overlooks a town hanging on 
 the Ikle of a fteep mountain, this is 
 
 K E N D A L. 
 
 The approach to it from the north is plea- 
 fant, a noble river, the KENT, is difcoverd 
 flowing brifkly through fertile fields, and 
 vifiting the town in its whole length; it is 
 crofled by a bridge more venerable than 
 handfome, where thiee great roads coincide, 
 from SEDBERGH, KIRKBY STEPHEN, and 
 PENRITH. The main ftreet leading from 
 the bridge (lopes upwards to the center of 
 the town, and contiacts itfclf to an incon- 
 venient paffage, where it joins another prin- 
 cipal ftreet, which falls with a gentle decli- 
 vity both ways, is a mile in length and of a 
 fpacious breadth. Was an area for a mar- 
 ket- place opened at the incident of thefe two 
 ftreets, it would give the town a noble ap- 
 pearance. The entrance from the fouth 
 is by another bridge, which makes a fhort 
 aukward turn into the fuburbs, after that 
 
 the
 
 TH E L A KE S. 185 
 
 the ftreet opens well, and the town has a 
 chearful appearance. 
 
 In this town is a workhoufe for the poor, 
 which for neatnefs and ceconomy, exceeds 
 mod of the kind in the kingdom. The inns 
 are genteel and commodious, plentifully 
 ferved, and the ufage civil. 
 
 The objects mod v/orthy of notice are 
 the manufactures : The chief of thefe are 
 of the KenJal-cottons, a coarfe woolen 
 cloth ; of the linfcys ; of knit worfted 
 (lockings-, and a confiderable tannery. 
 The lefler manufactures are, of wafte filk, 
 which is received from LONDON, and after 
 fcouring, combing, and fpinning, is returned; 
 of wool cards, in which branch confiderable 
 improvements have been made by the cu- 
 rious machines invented here; and of fifh- 
 hooks. Theie are other articles of induftry 
 well worth feeing; the mills for fcouring, 
 fulling, and frizing cloth, for cutting and 
 rafping dying wood, &c. But what is moft 
 to the credit of this place is, that notwith- 
 ftanding feveral confiderable inconveniences, 
 which this town has ever laboured under, 
 
 the
 
 i86 A GUIDE TO 
 
 the manufactures have all along continued 
 to flourifh; and are particularly noticed fo 
 early as the reign of King RICHARD II. and 
 HENRY IV. when fpecial laws were enacted 
 ior the better regulation of the KENDAL 
 cloths; and have of late years been greatly 
 cn^reafed by the fpirit and induftry of the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 When WILLIAM the conqueror gave the 
 barony of KENDAL to Ivo DE TAILLEBOIS, 
 the inhabitant/? of KENDAL were the villain- 
 tenants of the baronial lord; but one of 
 his fucceflbrs emancipated them, and con- 
 firmed their burgages to them by charter. 
 Queen ELIZABETH in the i8th year of her 
 reign erected it into a corporation, by the 
 name of aldermen and burgages; and after- 
 wards King JAMES I. incorporated it with a 
 mayor, 12 aldermen and 24 burgefies. 
 
 Mr. GRAY'S deicription of this town is 
 equally injurious to it and his memory; but 
 of the church and caftle he is pointed. 
 " Near the end of the town ftands a hand- 
 fonie houfe of Colonel WILSON'S, and ad- 
 joining to it, the church, a very large go- 
 
 thic
 
 THE~.LAKES. 187 
 
 thic fabric, with a fquarc tower ; it has no 
 particular ornaments, but double ifles, and 
 at the eaft end four chapels or choirs. " 
 Mr. GRAY'S account then proceeds to the 
 infide of the church, which he defcribes with 
 his ufual accuracy and eafe. Speaking of 
 the chapels, "one of PARRS, another of 
 STRICKLANDS, the thiid i* the proper choir 
 of the church, and the fourth ot the BEL- 
 LINGHAMS, a family now extinct. [The 
 BELLINGHAMS came into WESTMORLAND 
 before the reign of HENRY VII. and where 
 feated at BURN E SIDE. In the reign of King 
 HENRY VIII. ADAM BELLINGHAM pur- 
 chafed of the King the 2Oth part of a 
 knight's fee in HELSINGTON, parcel of the 
 poffeffion of HENRY Duke of RICHMOND, 
 and of Sir JOHN LUMLEY (Lord LUMLEY) 
 which his father THOMAS BELLINGHAM had 
 farmed of the crown, he was fucceeded by 
 his fon JAMES BELLINGHAM, who erected 
 the tomb, in the BELLINGHAM'S chapel.] 
 There is an altar tomb of one of them (viz 
 ADAM BELLINGHAM) dated 1577 with a 
 flat brafs aims and quarterings; and in the 
 window their arms alone, argent, a hunting- 
 horn fable, ft rung gules. In the STR IK- 
 LAND'S chapel *re fevcral modern monuments, 
 
 and
 
 x88 A GUIDE TO 
 
 and another old altar tomb, not belonging to 
 the family: On the fide of it a fefsdancctte 
 between ten billets deincourt, [this tomb is 
 probably of RALPH D'AINCOURT, who in the 
 reign of King JOHN married HE LEW, daugh- 
 ter of ANSELM DE ^URNESS, whofe daugh- 
 ter and fole heir ELIZABETH D'AINCOURT 
 was married to WILLIAM, fon and heir of 
 Sir ROBERT DE STIRKLAND, of great 
 STIRKLAND, knight, 23d of HENRY III. the 
 Ion and heir was WALTER DE STRIK.LAND, 
 who lived in the reign of EDWARD!, waspof- 
 fefed ot the fortunes of ANSELM DE FURNESS 
 and D'AINCOURT in WESTMORLAND, and 
 erected the above tomb, to the memory of 
 his grandfather RALPH D'AINCOURT. The 
 defcendants of the faid WALTER DE STRIK- 
 LAND have lived at SIZERGH, in this 
 neighbourhood ever fince 4 and this chapel 
 is the family burial place.] In PARR'S 
 chapel is a third altar tomb in the corner, 
 no figure or inlcription, but on the fide, cut 
 in flone, an efcutcheon of Ross of KEN- 
 DAL, three water-budgets, quartering PARR, 
 two bars in a bordu^e engrailed, 2dly, an 
 efcutcheon, vaire, afefs for marmion; ^dly, 
 an efcutcheon, three chevronels braced, and 
 
 a chief
 
 THE LAKES. 189 
 
 a chief, which I take for FITZHUGH : At 
 the foot is an efcutcheon, furrounded with 
 the garter, bearing Ross and PARR quar- 
 terly, quartering the other two beforemen- 
 tioned. 1 have no books to look in, there- 
 fore cannot lay whether this is Lord PARR 
 of KENDAL, Queen CATHARINE'S father, or 
 her brother the Ma r quis of NORTHAMPTON. 
 Perhaps it is a cenotaph for the latter who 
 was buried at WARWICK, 1571." The 
 caftle he defcribes thus. " The remains 
 of the caftle are feated on a fine hill on the 
 fide of the river oppofite to the town; 
 almoft the whole inclofure wall remains, 
 with four towers, two fquare and two round, 
 but their upper part and embattlements arc 
 demolifhed : It is a rough ftone and cement, 
 without any ornaviient or arms, round, inelo- 
 fing a court of the like form, and furroun- 
 ded by a moat; nor ever could it have 
 been larger then it is, for there are no traces 
 of out-works. There is a good view of 
 the town and river, with a fertile open val- 
 ley through which it winds." Had Mr. 
 GRAY afcended from the end of STRAMON- 
 GATE-BRIDGE to the caftle, which was the 
 
 Oiily way to it when in its glory, and is the 
 
 eaficft
 
 i 9 o A GUIDE TO 
 
 eafieft at prefent, he would have obferved a 
 fquare area that had been fortified with a 
 deep moat, and conne&cd to the caftle by a 
 draw-bridge, where was probably the bale- 
 court ; the ftones now are entirely removed 
 and the ground levelled, " and laughing CE- 
 RES reaflumes the land." The prefent ftruo 
 ture was undoubtedly raifed by the firft ba- 
 rons of KENDAL and probably on the ruins of 
 the Roman ftation-, this being the moft eli- 
 gible fite in the country for a fummer en- 
 campment, and at a fmall diftance from 
 WATER-CROOK. There are ftill fome re- 
 mains of a dark red feeftone ufed in fa- 
 cings, and in the doors and windows, that 
 has been brought from the environs of PEN- 
 RITH, more probably by the ROMANS, then 
 either the Saxon or Norman lords. Fame 
 fays this caftle held out againft OLIVER 
 CROMWELL, and was battered from the CAS- 
 TLE-LAW-HILL, but this is not fo probable, 
 as that its prefent ruinous ftate is owing to 
 the jealoufy of the ufurper. 
 
 There is a moft pleafant morning ride of 
 five mil-, down the eaft fide of the river, 
 ,WATER-CROOK is one mile diftant on the 
 
 right
 
 T H E L A K E S. 
 
 right, clofe by the fide of the KE^T. This 
 is theCoNCANGiuM of the ROMANS, where a 
 body of the VIGILATORES, watchmen, kept 
 guard, and was the intermediate ftation be- 
 twixt the DICTIS at AMBLESIDE. and the 
 garrifon at OvERBORoucHi the line of the 
 fois may be ftill traced, though much defa- 
 ced by the plough; altars, c >in, and infcri- 
 bed (tunes have been fou.id here, and in 
 the wall of the barn, on the very area of 
 the ftation, is ftill legible the inscription* 
 prefcrved by Mr. HORSLEV * to the memory 
 of two freed-men with an imprecation againft 
 any one who mould contaminate their fepul- 
 chre, with a fine to the fifcal. There is 
 allo an altar without an infcription, and a 
 SILENUS without a head. At a fmall dif- 
 tancc is a pyramidal knowl crowned with ft 
 fingle tree called SATTURY, where fomething 
 dedicated to the God SATURN has flood. 
 Pafs through the village of N ATL AND j on the 
 creft of a green hill on the left, called 
 HELM are the veftiges of a caftellum called 
 CASTLE-STEADS, which correfponded, by 
 frnoke in the day and flame in the night 
 with the garrilon at LANCASTER, by the 
 beacon on WARTON-CRAG, during the re(i- 
 dence of the watchmen at WATER CROOK. 
 BRIT, ptgejoo, There
 
 i 9 2 A GUIDE TO 
 
 There is a houfe at a diftance to the north, 
 called WATCH-HOUSE, where Roman coins 
 have been found. Proceed throughSiGiswicK, 
 and fail in with the courfe of the river at 
 FORCE-BRIDGE, and from the crown of it 
 have a very fingular romantic view both ways 
 of the river, working its way in a narrow deep 
 channel of rocks, hanging over it in va- 
 riety of forms, dreaming a thoufand limpid 
 rills, into the flood. The rocks in the bot- 
 tom are ftrangely excavated into deep holes 
 of various fhapes, that when the river is low 
 remain full of water; from its depth, black 
 as ink. The bridge is one bold arch fufpcn- 
 ded by the oppofite rocks, its antiquity un- 
 known -, a mantle of ivy vails its ancient 
 front, and gives it a moft venerable appear- 
 ance. If you ride down the welt fide of 
 the river from the bridge, as far as rhe 
 forge, to fee the water- rail of the whole 
 river, its ft ream is much impaired in beaucy 
 fince the forge was eredcxi. Bat if from 
 the end ot the uppcrmoft houfr, you will 
 look up between two trees in the midft of 
 the' channel you will fee the whole body of 
 the river iffuing from a fable cavern, and 
 
 tumbling
 
 THE LAKES. 193 
 
 tumbling over a rock, of height juft fuffi- 
 cient to convert into froth as white as fnow, 
 and behind it, the arch of the bridge is 
 partly catched in a difpofition that forms a 
 very uncommon aflemblage of picturefque 
 beauties. This is feen in higheft perfection 
 when the ftream is full. Return to the 
 bridge, and ride down the eaft fide of the 
 river to LEVINS-PARK. If you are not 
 provided with a key from KENDAL, the 
 keeper muft be applied to. 
 
 Here is one of the fweeteft fpots that 
 fancy can imagine ; the woods, the rocks, 
 the river, the grounds, are rivals in beauty 
 of ftile, and variety of contraft. The bends 
 of the river, the bulging of rocks over it, 
 under which in fomc places it retires in 
 hafte, and again breaks out in a calm and 
 fpreading ftream, are matchlefs beauties. 
 The grounds in places are bold and hang to 
 the river, or fall into gentle flopes,^and de- 
 cline into eafy plains ; all is variety with 
 pleafing tranfuion. Thickets cover the 
 brows, ancient thorns, and more ancient 
 oaks are fcattered over the plain, and 
 clumps, and folitary beach trees of enormous 
 O
 
 194 A G U I D E T O 
 
 fize, equal, if not furpafs any thing the 
 CHILTERN HILLS can boaft. The park is 
 well ftocked with fallow-deer. The fide of 
 the KENT is famous for petrifying fp rings, 
 that incruft vegetable bodies, as mofs, leaves 
 of trees, &c. There is one in the park, 
 called the dropping well. At a fmall diftance 
 is HNC ASTER, where the ROMANS had a 
 camp, and from the name the BRITONS 
 have called it the old camp. Within the 
 park is KIRKS-HEAD, mentioned by CAM- 
 DEN as a place frequented by the ROMANS 
 yet nothing of late belonging to that people 
 has been difcovered at eidier place. LEVINS- 
 HOUSE, was the feat of a family of that name 
 for many ages, then of REDMAN for many 
 defcents, afterwards it came to BELLIN- 
 CHAM, and ADAM, or his fon JAMES BELLIN- 
 GHAM gave it the prefent form in the reign 
 of Queen ELIZABETH, and in tafte of car- 
 vings in wood attempted to outdo his cotem- 
 porary, WALTER STRICKLAND of SIZERGH 
 Efq-, after BELLINGHAM it came to Colonel 
 GRAHAM, and from his daughter by mar. 
 riage to the anceftor of the prefent noble 
 poireffor. Return by LEVENS-BRIDGE to 
 KENDAL, five miles. Have a new view of 
 the valley, and the eaft fide of KENT; at
 
 T H E L A K E S. 195 
 
 the park-gate have a charming view of 
 SIZERGH, mewing itfelf to the morning fun> 
 and appearing to advantage from an eleva- 
 ted fite under a bold and wooded back- 
 ground. The tower was built in the reign of 
 HENRY III. or EDWARD I. by Sir WIL- 
 LIAM STIRKLAND, who had married 
 ELIZABETH the general heir of RALPH 
 D'AINCOURT. This is evident from an 
 efcutcheon cut in flone on the weft fide of 
 the tower, and hung cornerwife, D'AINCOURT 
 quartering STIRKLAND, three efcalop 
 ihells, the creft on a clofe helmet a full 
 topt holly-bum. The fame are the arms 
 of the family at this time, and this has been 
 their chief relidence ever fince. 
 
 Before you leave KENDAL vifit the CAS- 
 TLE-LAW-HILL -, this is an artificial mount, 
 that overlooks the town and faces the caftle, 
 and furpafles it in antiquity, being one of 
 thofe hills called LAWS, where in ancient 
 times distributive juftice was adminiftred. 
 From its prefcnt appearance it feems to have 
 been converted to different purpofes, but 
 though well fituated as a watch upon the 
 caftle, could never be a proper place to 
 batter it from, as the report goes. 
 
 O2 To
 
 ia5 A GUIDE TO 
 
 To LANCASTER, by BURTON, 22 miles, 
 obferve before you reach BURTON, FARLE- 
 TON-KNOT, a naked towering rocky moun- 
 tain, laid to referable much in form the 
 
 rock of GlBRALTER. 
 
 Between BURTON and LANCASTER, fee 
 DUNALD-MILL-HOLE, a fubterraneous ca- 
 vern, a river running through it, with many 
 curious petrifactions, in ftilc like thofc in 
 DERBYSHIRE, and of the fame kind. 
 
 LANCASTER 
 
 Finis charteque viaque*
 
 THE LAKES. 107 
 
 A 
 
 COMPARATIVE VIEW 
 
 OP THI 
 
 HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS 
 
 SEEN IN THIS TOUR, 
 With the oicft remarkable on the CONTIHBNT, 
 
 TAKIN FROM THE LATEST SURVEYS. 
 
 Heights of Mountains above the level of tbe Sea. 
 
 By Mr. WADDINGTON, A. D. 1770. 
 
 Feet. 
 Snowdon in Wales - - - - - 3 45 6 
 
 Whcrnfide ------. 
 
 Pendle-hill _.--_- 
 Pcnnygant ....... 1310 
 
 Inglcborough ...... 1329 
 
 By DONALD. 
 
 Helvellyn 3324 
 
 Skiddaw .-->.-.'- 3270 
 
 Crofs-fell ........ 3390 
 
 Saddleback ...-.- 3048 
 
 3 la
 
 198 A G U I D E T O 
 
 In NORTH BRITON. 
 PENNANT'S Tour in SCOTLAND, 1769. 
 
 Feet 
 Ben-Lomond ------- 3240 
 
 Bencvifh -------- 4350 
 
 Ben-y-bourd, ftill higher. 
 
 Laghin-y-gair. 
 
 Benwewifh. 
 
 'Tbefe lajl three Mountains are never without Snow. 
 
 Heights above the level ofiht Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 By M. T. BOURRIT. 
 
 Lake of Geneva at the lower paflage 
 
 of the Rhone ------ 1194 
 
 Summit of Dole, the higheft moun- 
 tain of Jura ------ 5400 
 
 Valley of Chamouni, in Savoy - - 3363 
 Ridge de Breven, a Glacier in the 
 
 valley of Chamouni - - - - 8847 
 
 Valley of Mountainvcrt, in Savoy 5595 
 Abbey of Sixt, ibid. - - - - 2391 
 
 Summit of Grenier ----- 8346 
 
 Summit of Grcnairon - - - - 8874 
 
 Summit of Buet ------ 9945 
 
 Mount Blanc ------ 15243 
 
 Mount ^Etna -.-..,. 12000 
 
 Heights
 
 THE LAKES. 199 
 
 Heights above the level of the Ocean. 
 
 Higheft part of the Table, at the 
 
 Cape of Good Hope - - - - 5459 
 
 PikeRucio, in the ifland of Madeira 5067 
 
 Pike TenerifFe ------ 13197 
 
 The fame according to Dr. Hebcr- 
 
 den in Madeira ----- 1539$ 
 
 Summit of Cotopaxi, in the pro- 
 vince of Quito, according to Don 
 
 Antonio de Ulloa - - - - *99 2 9 
 
 Cay ambour under the equator - 18000 
 
 Chimboraco ------- 19320 
 
 Petchincha ------- 14580 
 
 Carafon -------- 14820 
 
 From the furvey of mountains it appears 
 that SNOWDON is the higheft in SOUTH BRI- 
 TAIN, yet below the point of permanent fnow. 
 It has been oblervcd by the FRENCH acade- 
 micians, that amongft the CORDILIERAS, in 
 the province of QUITO, PETCHINCHA and 
 CARASON are the higheft accefllble moun- 
 tains, and that all of greater height! arc vef- 
 ted with eternal fnow.
 
 A GUIDE TO 
 
 On the GLACIBRI fnow is permanent at 
 a much inferior height, and where the fun's 
 rays fall more oblique, lefs height is found 
 the boundary between temporary and eter- 
 nal fnow. But no mountain in SOUTH BRI- 
 TAIN touches the region of barrennefs, that 
 intervenes between the limits of vegetation 
 and perpetual fnow. Sheep pafturc the 
 fummits of fhaggy SNOWDON, green HEL- 
 VELLYW, and purple SKIDDAW : Barrennefs 
 only prevails where rock and precipice, the 
 invincible obftacles to vegetation, oppofe 
 thcmfclves. 
 
 ROADS
 
 THE LAKES. on 
 
 ROADS 
 
 From LANCASTER to the LAKES. 
 
 Miles 
 
 Lancafter (Lwgovicum, Notit. Imper.) 
 3 Heft-bank 
 
 9 Over Lancafter-fands (Mtrecambe, Ptol.) 
 to Carter-houfe 
 
 2 Cartmel church-town, or Flookborough 
 a Holker-gate 
 
 3 Over Ulverfton fands to Carter-houfe 
 
 1 Ulverfton 
 
 12 Dalton, Furnefs abbey, and back to Ul- 
 verfton 
 
 4 Penny-bridge 
 
 2 Lowick-bridge 
 
 Or 5 from Ulverfton to Lowick-bridge 
 2T Through Nibthwaite, to Conifton Wa- 
 ter-foot 
 6 Conifton Water-head 
 
 3 Hawk mead 
 
 5 To Amblefide 
 
 Or 3 to the ferry on Windermcre 
 i Bowncfs acrofs the Windermere 
 
 Amble-
 
 so* A GUIDE TO 
 
 7 Amblcfide, (Amboglana, Notit. Impcr. 
 
 Diffis, Horfley) 
 
 See the water-fall in the groves. 
 
 1 Rydal 
 
 See the water-fall above the hall, and the caf- 
 cade in the futnmer-houfe. 
 
 2 Grafmere 
 
 2i Dunmail-raife-ftones 
 3| Dale-head 
 
 See the general view of Thrilmeer; 
 
 4| Caftle-rigg 
 
 See the grand view of the vale of Kefwick. 
 i Kefwick ( Derventione^ Raven. Chor.) 
 
 3 Lowdore water-fall 
 i Grange 
 
 i Bowdar-ftone, Caftle-hill 
 21. Rofthwaite 
 ^ Seathwaite 
 
 See black-lead or wad mines. 
 
 51 Kefwick 
 
 8 Down Baffenthwaite Water, by Bow- 
 
 nefs, Bradnefs, Scarenefs to Arma- 
 thwaite. 
 
 9 Up the other fide of the lake to Kef- 
 
 wick 
 
 5 Gafgadale 
 3 Buttermere 
 
 6 Down Crummock Water to Lorton 
 
 71 Kefwick
 
 THE LAKES. 203 
 
 71 Kefwick 
 
 4 Threfkield 
 
 6 Whitbarrow 
 
 See the Roman encampment 
 i Penruddock 
 
 6| Penrith (Bereda, Rav. Chorog. Vonda^ 
 Anton. Iter.) 
 
 5 Dunmallet at the foot of Ulls Water, 
 
 and Pooly-bridge 
 
 9 Water- millock, Gowbarrow-park Airy- 
 bridge, to the head of Ulls Water 
 See the water-fall in Gowbarrow-park 
 
 9 Amblefide 
 Or 1 4 to Penrith 
 
 io By Lowther, Afkham, and Bampton 
 
 to Haws Water 
 
 15 From the head of Haws Water 
 through Long-fledale to Kendal 
 
 Or 5 to Shap, by Rofgill and Shap abbey 
 
 7 Hawfe-foot 
 
 8 Kendal (Concangmm, Not. Imp.) 
 
 10 Down the eaft fide of Kent to Levins- 
 
 park, and return to Kendal by Sizergh 
 
 11 Burton in Kendal (Cocclum, Rav.Chor.) 
 ii Lancaftcr 
 
 FINIS,
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 17 line 19 for Lono<vices, read Longt<vices. p. 21 
 1. I tor/ran, r. front, p. 27 1. i$i9ramaple, r. rfi/k. p. 
 31 1. 3 for appearing, r. appears in. p. 44!. 16 tor fore- 
 ground, r. far ground, p. 45 I. 2 for w//*r end, r. ./ff /^ 
 //*r end. p. 47 1. 2 r. is at the ether end. p. 48 1. 18 
 for ^wonderful, r. wonderfully, p. 51 1. 2 for conceal, r. 
 concealed, p. 58 1. for //, r. /. p. 61 I. 7 for yira, r. 
 from. p. 85 1. 21 for falanches, r. tvekxtbcs. p. 86 1. 6 
 r. ffe/<?/? pajloral ftile. p. 96 1. 17 dele *</*<? reftory 
 vfCroftfawaite. p. 117 1. 21 f or variegating r, vegetating. 
 p. 140 1. 17 r. and Mellbreak, twofpiral bills, p. 141 1. 
 18 htftrartedt r.ferratea.-p. 177 1. 18, for Penrilh, r. 
 Penrith. p. 188 1. n for Strikland, r. Stirkland,
 
 HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE 
 
 AND ITS 
 
 ENVIRONS. 
 
 . " At length ( God preferve us !) 
 
 "I'm bilious IJindy and the women are nervous ; 
 
 " But the people faj here, be *ubat r v?r jour cafe, 
 
 " Tou are f ure to gst zveH, ifjiu come to this place ; 
 
 " A place i ^uhere they tell you that <water alone, 
 
 " Can cure ill dijfimpers, that ever <were knov:n. 
 
 ANSTIE,' 
 
 r R K : 
 
 Printed by W. Blanchard, for James Schoficld, bookfcller, in Scar- 
 lrough; and foW bv | Jibn, under the Royal-Exchange, 
 
 MefT. Todd, i-'robilher, and Spencc, York; ? 
 bei! HiiJ Millfon, Hull ; Mr. Sanderfun, Done 
 Mr Smith, Leeds ; Mr. Edwards, Halifax ; ?". . 
 Kargrovfc, Harrogate ; Mr. Clark, Whiiby ; 
 and Mr. Sagg, bookfeller, in MaitOa. 
 
 UCB THREE SHILLINGS.)
 
 TO HIS G RACE 
 
 CHARLES Duke of RUTLAND, 
 
 LORD LIEUTENANT of IRELAND, 
 RECORDER of SCARBROUGH, &c. &c. 
 
 MY LORD DUKE, 
 
 T HUMBLY befeech your Grace to accept 
 an offering of the mojl perfect rsfpeSt ; and, 
 what is more ; -the in oft cordial cjleern, from 
 a difintcrejled inhabitant of Scarbrough ! 
 
 To your very nable father ; and to the in-*. 
 Jinitely honourable conduct your Grace adopted 
 on his deceafe, this place is under obligation 
 beyond the power of even Ingratitude to pafs 
 over, or time obliterate from our recollection* 
 And to the prtfumption of 'laying fo very trifling 
 an offering as this, at your Graced feet, any 
 other apology would be inadequate, but that 
 the name of SCARBROUGH, arid its PATRON, 
 BENEFACTOR, and HEREDITARY FRIEND, 
 may not be fiparated in the eyes of the pub- 
 lic; a public who have fee n you, MY LORD 
 
 DUKE, voluntarily facrifice fitch enormous f urns ; 
 
 a 2 C tbou-
 
 (thoufands of which In this place,) to a high 
 fenfe of frue Honor ; Filial Affection ;' and the 
 rnojl PerfecJ Honejly of Heart. 
 
 While your Grace holds the filken reins of a 
 fifter kingdom, 'with fo much real dignity ; 
 and a CONDESCENSION, which renders that 
 dignity AMIABLE ; we cannot but furvey, ivith 
 avidity and delight , the various acknowledgments 
 of public and unanimous approbation, tendered to 
 
 our PATRON ! Trujling that our knowledge 
 
 of your princely difpofition, and conducJ, will be 
 yet more fully exprejjed, and permanently dijlin- 
 guifhed, by that renowned people, who, like us, 
 may every day perceive frejh caufe to acknow- 
 ledge their particular 'benejtts, as 'well as occafwn 
 to approve of your public adminiftration. 
 
 I humbly beg leave tofubfcribe myfelf, 
 
 My Lord Duke, 
 Tour Grace s very devoted, 
 And mojl obedient humble ferv ant, 
 
 JAMES SCHOFIELD.
 
 TO THE 
 
 RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 GEORGE EARL OF TYRCONNEL, 
 
 AND TO 
 
 GEORGE OSBALDESTON, ESQ. 
 
 THE VERY WORTHY AND ESTIMABLE 
 
 REPRESENTATIVES is PARLIAMENT 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 JSURROUGH OF SCARBROUGH, 
 
 A 
 
 GENERAL ACCOUNT OF THAT TOV.'X, 
 
 / 
 
 TOGETHER 'WITH 
 
 SOME OF ! T s ENVIRONS, 
 
 1 5, 
 
 i 
 
 IV TOKEN OF MOST PARTICULAR RESPECT, 
 
 HUMBLY INSCRIBED, 
 BY THEIR VERY DUTIFUL 
 
 AND 
 MOST OBEDIENT SERVANT, 
 
 JAMES SCHOFIELD.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT to the READER. 
 
 CJ" PI E firft attempt to collect ', and bring forward 
 J- fuch a production) from fcanty as 'well as mifcel- 
 laneous authorities, will ever be found liable both to 
 difficulties, and inaccuracy. As it was thrown toge- 
 ther^ in a fpace of time unavoidably too limitted, and 
 amidft numerous avocations ; it ftands, therefore, in 
 need of every apology. 
 
 We are necejfarily indebted for divers pajfages, to 
 the remarks ; and obfervations, of other writers. But 
 cur endeavour has been., to felecl fuch as we appre- 
 hended might bejl conduce to elucidate our fubjecl, or 
 entertain the Reader. And., we truft, that in point 
 of variety -, or information, (perhaps original mat- 
 ter alfo,) the SCARBROUGH GUIDE has not much 
 to faffer* by a comparifon with pamphlets of fimilar 
 import. 
 
 Since it will be acknowledged, neither eafy, nor al- 
 together expedient, to adopt a work of this nature, 
 folely to the ideas of any one particular clafs ; we in- 
 dulge a hope, that the more polijhed Readers, will 
 overlook, with good-natured allowance, articles calcu- 
 lated
 
 latedfor thofe of a knowledge lefs extenfive, or a tafte 
 lefs refined. And we muft rely on their candour and 
 benignity, for a favourable acceptance of the trifle, 
 which is hereby devoted to them, and to the public ! 
 
 The authentic anecdotes we have obtained from fe- 
 veral very rcfpcclable perfons, we embrace this ccca- 
 Jion, moji thankfully to acknowledge. And we Jhall 
 deem ourfelves ejjcntially obliged, by the correction of 
 any mi/take, as well as the favour cffuch addition, or 
 improvement, as may render a fubj'eauent edition more 
 corn-pleat. Whatever further information may be ad- 
 drcffed to "James Schofield, bookfeller in Scarbrough, 
 c :/'// be attended to with the utmo/l refpcft, and ac- 
 knowledgement. 
 
 I N D E A".
 
 ( viii ) 
 
 / N D E X. 
 
 Approach to Scarbrough 
 Antient Perlbns living in") 
 
 Scarbrough j 
 
 Anecdotes of Sir Hugh and") 
 
 Lady Cholmley J 
 
 Amufements 
 AlTembly-Rboms 
 Bathing 
 Books and Eookfcller 
 
 Bean's Garden 13 & 
 
 Boats for Pkafure 
 
 Carriers 
 
 Church and Religious Houfes 
 Corporation 
 Cattle 
 
 Cloivton Wyke 
 Diligences 
 
 Fifli and Fiflicry 
 Fifhing for Amufement 
 Filey 
 
 Flambrough Head 
 Hutton Builiel 
 
 58 
 92 
 
 35 
 
 172 
 
 171 
 
 38 
 
 178 
 
 63 
 
 72 
 
 39 
 176 
 
 "5 
 
 148 
 
 no 
 9 
 
 Hacknefs 
 
 Jews ' 
 Job Horfes 
 Lodgings 
 
 Medical Gentlemen 
 Murder of the Monk 
 
 V/hitby 
 
 Nanny Salmon 
 Old and New Pier 
 Poft ~ _ 
 
 Playhoufe 
 Provisions 
 
 Rides _ 
 Raincliff Wood 
 Robin Hood's Bay 
 Story of Secchi ' 
 Spaw 
 
 Spaw Water 
 Town of Scarbrough 
 Whitby _ 
 Wykeham Abbey 
 Water Sea and Common 
 
 127 
 
 46 
 
 168 
 
 16 
 18 & 19 
 
 34 
 59 & 61 
 
 176 
 
 I7S 
 
 170 
 
 126 
 
 143 
 
 151 
 
 - I8 7 
 
 - 21 
 
 23 
 
 41 
 
 155 
 
 8 
 
 - 178 
 
 E R R A 
 
 A. 
 
 Pac;e 5, line 28, for Hotham, read Thorn tfoa. 
 
 Page 44, line 4, for one, read fre. 
 
 Page 44, line. 18, for ribbands, read rr Lands. 
 
 Page 48, line 32, for ca.fi, read caufet. 
 
 Page 72, line 5 and 6, read the l-ing's. 
 
 Page 87, in the note for fire, read fclie. 
 
 Page 89, -line 24, for 1730, read 1746. 
 
 Pa^c 90, Jaft line, for t'a* fyacs, read near the fpate, 
 
 PHC 119, line 9, for Mr. read Dr. 
 
 Page 125, l:iU line but one, for et, read <7. 
 
 Page 135, l : ,ne ja, for Aft'iiti, r^A^i/^li/iion. 
 
 Page 156, line 28, for maritime, read naval.
 
 GUIDE 
 
 T O 
 
 SCARBROUGH, has long been diftinguifhed 
 as one of the moft antient and refpeclable 
 fea-bathing places in Great-Britain. The 
 fame of its Medicinal Spring, is eftablifhed by the 
 experience of many years ; and the particular 
 healthfulnefs of its air, can hardly, in this cli- 
 mate, be exceeded. 
 
 HITHER, not only the ailing and infirm, but 
 the gay, the opulent, and juvenile, have de- 
 lighted to repair, and hold their feftive fummer 
 refidence. 
 
 " Thick and mtmberlefs" is the refpecfoble lift 
 of thofe, whofe debilitated frames have been 
 indebted to the joint influence of its waters, fo- 
 ciety, air, and fituation ; and who have pro- 
 feffed their obligations, (under Providence) for 
 reftored health, to 
 
 A "The
 
 " The refiftlefs charm 
 
 " Of Scarbrough altogether 1" 
 
 YET, ftrange to tell ! it has not yet received 
 the acknowledgment of a defcription, or the af- 
 fiftance of any GUIDE and DIRECTORY, for fuch 
 ftrangers as may honor it by their future vifits. 
 
 THE following attempt, is therefore refpect- 
 fully offered, in fome meafure, to fupply that de- 
 ficiency ; fatisfy the earlieft curiolity of the tra- 
 veller ; and convey whatever requifite inform- 
 ation can be obtained. 
 
 IN purfuit of fuch delign, poffibly it may not 
 be unacceptable to attend the Spaiversf (by that 
 appellation are the company at Scarbro' ufually 
 diftinguiihed) from their approach, to a comfort- 
 able eftablifhment in their lodgings : And, when 
 afterwards inclined to vary the fcene, by explor- 
 ing our neighbouring rides, villages, natural hi- 
 ftory, or antiquities to ailift there alfo, with the 
 beft account of them we can colled. 
 
 PERMIT us then, like the TOUTERS of other 
 public places, to meet the ftranger at fome di- 
 ftance ; refpeclfully congratulating ; and, while 
 we exprefs our fatisfaclion, humbly proffer our 
 beft fervices. 
 
 MALTON, with its pleafant, commodious, and 
 indeed excellent inn, the TALBOT, we wilh to 
 
 coniider 
 
 * By contraction Spaws.
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 confider as the firft fcene of this our homage, . 
 and where we expect to be afked the queftions, 
 naturally occurring, on a progrefs from thence 
 to Scarbrough. 
 
 THE diftancc is 22 meafured miles ; the firft 
 ftage, either Yedingham Bridge Inn, which is 9 
 miles ; or Snainton Inn, which is 12 miles, and 
 confequently only 10 miles from Scarbrough. 
 
 BY contriving the journey fo as to fleep at 
 Malton, the arrival here will be at a convenient 
 hour, for arranging a variety of neceflary de- 
 partments, and give the travellers time to be 
 pleafantly fettled, quite at their eafe, the firft 
 evening. 
 
 THE road, except a very little {pace of fandy 
 foil, which is almoft, if not now altogether, co- 
 vered by the turnpike-way, may for the firft 
 (lage, be called particularly good. 
 
 THE firft hamlet you pafs through, on croffing 
 Malton Bridge, is Norton ; when on the plain 
 above it, one mile to the left, appears Old Mal- 
 ton, where there is a celebrated Grammar-fchool. 
 Its healthy and commodious fituation, and the 
 particular advantage of a good mafter, whofe 
 ^claflkal abilities, and chearful manners, make his 
 pupils happy in the purfuit of their improve- 
 ments, are recommendations, that will always 
 fill the Rev. Mr. Johnfon's fchool, with the fons 
 of the refpectable, and judicious. 
 
 A 2 THS
 
 ( 4 ) 
 
 THE chief proprietor of Malton, and the greater 
 part of its environs, is the truly noble and efti- 
 mable Earl Fitzwilliam, who inherited this among 
 the other vaft domains of the late Marquis of 
 Rockingham ; and who, to accommodate tra- 
 vellers of fafhion, as well as the town and neigh- 
 bouring gentry, purchafed the late Sir William 
 Strickland's hunting-feat there, and eftablifhed 
 it as an inn. The celebrated Mr. Powell firft oc- 
 cupied it, who, by his civility, attention, and 
 excellent management, foon obtained for him- 
 felf, and the Talbot-Inn, the firft of reputations 
 in that line. 
 
 MR. Benj. Harker, bred up under him, fucceeds 
 in conducting the houfe, and to that well-merited 
 efteem, .obtained by the good conduct of his 
 friend, and predeceffor. 
 
 RILLINGTON village, is the next you pafs ; its 
 church and fleeple are happily fituated for termi- 
 nating a handfome vifta, to be beft feen, when 
 you come from Malton hither, by looking back, 
 exactly where the road bends off from Scampilon 
 pine grove, towards Yedingham. 
 
 THE park, ornamented ground, and the fplen- 
 did man/ion which you now approach, and pafs 
 by, received moft of its improvements from the 
 finimed tafte, good fenfe, and munificence of Sir 
 William St. Quintin, Bart, whofe family feat it 
 is : Not but confiderable acknowledgments are 
 due to the planter, of that very noble and de- 
 lightful
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 lightful grove of pine trees, which enliven the 
 plain, adorn both the houfe and the neighbour- 
 ing country ; forming a confpicuous and grand 
 object for many miles around. 
 
 THE* difficulty of rendering fo dead, and un- 
 traclable a plain, beautiful, has been here gradu- 
 ally furmounted ; and if you remark how flat 
 and hungry a level Scampft on- Houfe is built on, 
 it will be allowed, there are not many inland 
 places in the kingdom, fo fituated, whofe im- 
 provements have fuch an agreeable effect on the 
 paffenger. 
 
 YEDINGHAM-BRIDGE, the ufual ftage from 
 Malton, affords, befides relays of horfes, genuine 
 and good wine with the other ufual refrelhments, 
 tendered with exceeding civility, 
 
 TRAVELLING on towards Scarbrough from 
 thence, a fmall but very neat kind of build- 
 ing is feen, about two miles on the left hand, 
 rifing above a church and fcattered cottages, in 
 the front of a little amphitheatre of plantations, 
 which decorate the hill whereon it ftands. The 
 hill appears as if opened only for the accommo- 
 dation of the houfe, and its diminutive but ele- 
 gant offices, and fringe of plantation, whofe back 
 ground, is a handlbme grove of ftately trees. 
 
 THIS little feat was built for the amufement of 
 one of the Hotham family, and the reception of 
 a fair lady j whofe unwonted ear being foonpalFd 
 
 A3 by
 
 .( 6 ) 
 
 by the twice told tale of the lark, the linnet, and 
 the thrum, fhe preferred the bufy hum, and tu- 
 multuous gratifications of a metropolis, deferring 
 her friend in his retirement j " Late loca queftibus 
 ijnplens !" 
 
 ITS prefent poffefibr is Sir Charles Thompfon, 
 Bart, not more diftinguifhed by his ample pofief- 
 fions, than for the moft perfect politenefs, huma- 
 nity, and condefcenlion. 
 
 THE hint of this building, is taken from a beau- 
 tiful Roman villa ; but the fcale of it has fo fuf- 
 fered by contracting, that the firft idea, with 
 many, on a near approach, is that of Gulliver's 
 travelling-houfe, juft dropped by the eagle, who 
 had miftaken it for a large ihell fifh. 
 
 NOTHING feems particularly linking on the 
 road towards Snainton, except that the road de- 
 generates into roughnefs, and the remarkable ef- 
 fect of the ftream, flowing along the road fide. 
 This, like the one conducted by the great Sir 
 Francis Drake, to Plymouth town, has ftrongly 
 the appearance of running its courfe up hill! and 
 with the more attention you furvey it, the more 
 it has the appearance of really fo doing. 
 
 THE next village of Snainton, 10 miles from 
 Scarbrough, exhibits nothing to detain your 
 progrefs. Immediately on pafTing through it, 
 an agreeable view of improved cultivation, and 
 more extended fields prefents itfelf, which con- 
 tinues for a confiderable fpace. The long range 
 
 of
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 of mountainous hills, which bounds the wide 
 valley on the right for many a mile, bears the 
 general name of Wold, and is much efteemed and 
 reibrted to by fportfmen, for hunting, courfing, 
 and mooting. Its extent in width, as well as 
 length, is very confiderable : It is faid there are 
 buftards on it, as on the Wiltfliire downs (which 
 it faintly refembles). In fpring and autumn 
 dotterels frequent thefe hills ; and in the winter, 
 many wildgeefe. The hares bred thereon, are 
 reported to be the fwifteft and ftrongeft known. 
 
 THOUGH little appears to call attention on the 
 left hand, as you proceed, yet every rifmg ground 
 ' affords a pleafing view of the valley on the right ; 
 illufive in its apparent fertility, as, except in 
 dry feafons, the moorifh and hungry earth, ill 
 repays the toil of the hufbandinan. 
 
 THE fleeple, and village of Brompton, by which 
 the road alfo leads, adorns the landfcape : The 
 manfion-houfe adjoining to the road, on the right 
 as you defcend the hill of Brompton village, is the 
 family refidence of Sir George Cayley, an antient 
 and venerable baronet, to whom the community 
 is indebted for the long and ufeful attentions of 
 amagiftrate; as well as for feveral fons, diftin- 
 guifhably employed in the navy, the church, and 
 the beneficial fcience of agriculture, on an en- 
 larged fcale, 
 
 IMMEDIATELY when rifing the hill next Brpmp- 
 ton, the profpect is greatly improved, not only 
 
 A 4 by
 
 ( 8 ) 
 
 by neat hufbandry, but the undilated hillocks 
 which crofs from North to South, in front of 
 the road, whofe fummits are adorned by a hand- 
 fome chain of evergreens, in circular plantations, 
 that form part of the ornamented ground, be- 
 longing to Wykeham Abbey. Among thefe is a 
 boundary fence, or plantation of firs, judicioufly 
 interfperfed with beech, oak, and other foreft 
 trees; through which an elegant gateway on the 
 right hand, leads from the public road (amidfl 
 groups of pine trees, fet out in noble clumps, that 
 have adelighful effect,) to Wykeham- Abbey houfe, 
 the ieat of Richard Langley, Efcj; late high-lhe- 
 riff of the county, 
 
 EVERY ftep you now advance, until you reach 
 Seamer-Moor, marks the trace of opulence, tafte, 
 or good hufbandry ; the general effects of refi- 
 dence on their eftates, by gentlemen of ample 
 poffeffions, and liberal ideas. 
 
 WYKEHAM ABBEY, was anciently the ilte of a 
 monaftery for Benedictine nuns, to whofe founda- 
 tion belonged alfo the church of St. Hellena, 
 now in ruins, but obfervable as you enter Wyke- 
 ham village, on the left-hand ; Its tower fliews 
 the remains of a good proportion, and the veftige 
 of a fpire. 
 
 OF the ancient Abbey itfelf, there are no other 
 remains than part of its North end wall, which 
 forms the South fide of the inclofure, round 
 Wykeham church-yard. The manfion-houfe is 
 
 newly
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 newly rebuilt, in a good tafte, with attention 
 as well to handfome, (we might add magnificent) 
 proportions, as domeftic convenience, by thepre- 
 fent liberal pofleffor, on his return from his tra- 
 vels. The feveral particularly thriving clumps 
 of fir trees, fo well difpofed about the park, or 
 ornamented ground, leading to Wykeham Abbey, 
 are hardly enough feen from the public road; but 
 they afford a delightful improvement to every 
 view around, marking the tafte, as well as diftin- 
 guilhing the refidence of their cultivator. 
 
 PASSING on, Hutton Bufhell, which is the next 
 village to the left, crowns the adjoining emi- 
 nence ; little of it appears from the turnpike- 
 way, except the church -tower, and a glimpfe of 
 the manor-houfe However, every object around 
 it, feems to bear a fmile and chearfulnefs of afpecl; 
 as if good humoured condefcention and benevo- 
 lence, were communicable toinanimatethinsrs.and 
 
 o ' 
 
 they had derived from their efteemed proprietors, 
 the obliging and happy fcience cf diffufing univer- 
 fal jatlsfaciion I 
 
 AYTON village. Its handfome bridge of four 
 Roman arches, and the chapel, near the road, 
 are the lafr amufing objects which may be noticed: 
 For, as you leave the plcafant fields and village 
 of Hutton Bufhell, the view gradually degene- 
 rates. A ruin, of fome antiquity, is feen on paf- 
 fing Ay ton-Bridge, which was formerly a manfion- 
 houfe belonging to the Evers' family, once pro- 
 prietors of this diftrict. 
 
 FROM
 
 FROM Ayton to Scarbrough, is five miles ; a 
 hungry niggard foil juft here, denies nourishment 
 to the ftarvling hedge-rows of ragged, miferable 
 thorns, for fo long a fpace, that the difappointed 
 hufbandman, is at laft forced to protect his flender 
 crops, by the road-fide, with dry ftone walls. 
 
 Approach to Scarbrough. 
 
 THE approaches to fea ports, are feldom parti- 
 cularly beautiful ; the eye here ceafes for a while 
 to be feafted, and the chief fatisfaclion ufually 
 refults, from finding one's felf fo near the jour- 
 ney's end ! 
 
 As views and different profpefts, with their di- 
 ftance from the "dejiredportj' are what the travel- 
 ler here feeks on his progrefs towards it, we have 
 the more particularly enumerated fuch as occur, 
 in pafiing from Malton, to Scarbrough. 
 
 HERE often (but moft frequently in fummer) 
 a vapour, arifing from the fea, condenfes, and ob- 
 fcures by a thick foggy kind of cloud, every thing 
 around. Sad, gloomy, and alarming is fuch an 
 afpecl, at fuch a feafon, to the earlier apprehen- 
 fion of the infirm vifitor, and thofe of tender 
 health. But nothing pernicious is to be feared; 
 the common precautions of a great-coat and a 
 handkerchief, infure fafety from every danger. 
 
 SEA fogs, are noxious only to the maturing of 
 wall-fruit, which they do indeed prejudice, by 
 
 intercepting
 
 ( II ) 
 
 intercepting the fun. Voyagers of credit, ob- 
 ferve their mariners return from a fummer fta- 
 tion on the iifhing banks, and ifland of New- 
 foundland, with health, and ftrength uncom- 
 monly vigorous. And in thofe regions, the im- 
 menfe, and almoft conftant fea fogs, are fuch, 
 as a ftranger to them, could with difficulty believe 
 to exift. But one, and a much more forcible 
 argument, why it may be prefumed thefe fea 
 fogs are not very rapidly deftructive, is, that the 
 inhabitants of Scarbrough, frequently live to the 
 age of an hundred ! 
 
 MANY obferve (as well on their return, as on 
 the firft vifit to this place,) a fenfible difference in 
 the air, foon after pafling Hutton Bulhell ; this 
 is moil diftinguifhable in the hot months, when 
 our atmofphere is rendered temperate and plea- 
 fant, by the falubrious influence of the fea ; which 
 not only protects this diftrict from oppreilive and 
 relaxing heats, but alfo from the baleful effects of 
 thunder ftorms : Thefe rarely vifit Scarbrough, 
 and when they do, prove hannlefs; being rapid, 
 ly attracted by the ocean, where they foon fpend all 
 their alarming, and tremendous fury. 
 
 THE furly, tedious, lingering, dull afcent you 
 have now to drag up, may be reafonably expected 
 to reward the impatient traveller, with a view of 
 the long wifh'd-for Scarbrough from its fum- 
 mit : Far otherwiie is the event ; a moment ary 
 glimpfe alone is afforded him of the fea to the 
 right-hand, on the crown of the hill ; when the 
 
 road
 
 road fuddenly turns, and leading downwards, a 
 mortifying fcreen rifes, and intenupts all other 
 view, than of an improved valley, with the vil- 
 lages of ThrofTenby, and Newby, gradually appear- 
 ing ; this fcene by degrees expands, unfolding 
 flill more and more beautifully, till a noble ex- 
 panfe of fea, beams on the fight, like the opening 
 of the morning ! The proud coaft, beautifully 
 irregular, lifts its rugged mafs of hills 
 
 " To bar her dreadful flowings o'er! 
 
 '* Thou watry vaft, 
 
 " Thro* nature's wide, 
 
 *' Is nought defcry'd, 
 
 " So rich in pleafure or furprife ! 
 
 *' When all fcrene, 
 
 " How fweet the fcene ! 
 
 '* How dreadful, when the billows roar! 
 
 DR. YOUNG." 
 
 Faffing fleets, or ftraggling {hips, difTeminated 
 along the immenfe level, enliven the profpecl, and 
 delight the eye, while fmall craft, like the " Buoy 
 " almojl too fmall for fight" are bufied to fupply 
 the earlieft wants of the traveller, and accommo- 
 date his table, with the choiceft produce of the 
 ocean. 
 
 HERE alfo your approach begins to unvail the 
 modeft Suburbs of the town, and thofe venerable 
 ruins of its once formidable Caftle. Few towns 
 fo conliderable, open upon the curious eye 
 of the ftranger more gradually, or more fatisfac- 
 torily. Some bright and lively looking houfe- 
 tops appear, with a noble wind-mill in front j and 
 for a back ground, the Caftle-hill, its antient 
 
 tower,
 
 ( 13 ) 
 
 tower, and romantic line of circumvallation, form 
 a ftriking and uncommonly pleafing group. As 
 the road winds on, it is beautiful to trace all the 
 varieties of appearance, which the wind-mill, 
 and buildings of Walfgrave wear, between the 
 hillocks, which form a fore-ground to that or 
 other openings, directing the eye between them, 
 to the magnificent furface of the great deep. 
 
 HERE, at an unengaged hour, the judicious in 
 landfcape, will find many a fketch of detach'd 
 fcenery, worthy of Gainfbrough's charming art, 
 or Sandby's light and flowing pencil. 
 
 PASSING Walfgrave, Scarbrough more dif- 
 tindly arifes to the fight. Along the road, juft 
 entering to the town, are a few private buildings, 
 erected for the convenience or amufement of their 
 refpective proprietors but nearly adjoining to 
 the town-gate, ftands the Bull-Inn; and oppofite, 
 the induftrious and ingenious Bean's univerfal gar- 
 den; who fupplies every fruit or flower, or green, 
 that either our natural, or artificial climate, can 
 here bring to perfection. 
 
 ANTIENTLY, the road to the Temple of Fame 
 and Honour, was thro* that of Virtue ; while 
 here the approach to health, pleafure, and delight, 
 is under the Arch of Mifery; and, we truft, Re- 
 pentance ! For the gateway you pafs, leading 
 into the town, is the corporation gaol or prifon! 
 Kept by a fair and portly Wardenncfs, who wields 
 the tremendous key, but whofe great humanity 
 
 foftens
 
 14 ) 
 
 foftens, like an Akerman^ the afflictions of the 
 unfortunate and wretched, committed to her 
 charge. Stop with me, (me fain would fay) one 
 moment, O ftranger, as you pafs underneath this 
 gate, and confider its ufe, and its oft gloomy in- 
 habitants ! With how different an eye, and heart, 
 muft they furvey your opulence and fplendor, 
 from that with which you behold thefe expand- 
 ing fcenes ! The folly of profufe expence, the 
 
 madnefs of difcontent, and the errors of a Vicious 
 life ; fometimes, indeed, unavoidable misfortunes 
 have reduced them to become objects of juftice, 
 of warning, perhaps of COMPASSION I 
 
 PASS we on from this houfe of mourning, to 
 thofe of more comfort and feftivity. From the 
 narrow gateway of this arch, and prifon, opens 
 the great and handfome ftreet of Ncwbrough, or, 
 as it is here pronounced, Newbruff, which is a 
 handfome and coniiderable broad ftreet, widen- 
 ing as you advance, and affecting the traveller 
 with an agreeable idea of comfort, opulence, and 
 improvement. Its ground plat, on a gradual de- 
 fcent, is near a thoufand feet in length, and moftly 
 about fifty wide, with an excellent flagged foot- 
 way, about nine feet broad, on each lide. The 
 houfes have a modern and chearful air, tho* not 
 on a large fcale; are chiefly built of brick; among 
 them fome neat looking, tho* narrow fronts are 
 feen, faced or ornamented with fquared ftone ; 
 a very excellent wide foot-way on either lide, 
 moft ufefully adorns the whole. 
 
 THE
 
 ( 15 ) 
 
 THE fecond opening on the left, exhibits 
 Queen-ftreet, whofe buildings, and dimenfion, 
 would not difcredit a metropolis. In both thefc 
 -are many commodious, and handfomely appointed 
 lodging houfes, befides private habitations. Two 
 of the inns are here fituated. The markets on 
 Thurfdays and Saturdays ; and the two fairs 
 which are kept on Holy-Thurfday, and 22d No- 
 vember, are alfo chiefly held on this fpot. To 
 the right, about one hundred yards from the 
 town gate, a narrow opening leads to Long-room- 
 ftreet, almoft wholly deftined to the ufe and ac- 
 commodation of the company ; in it are the two 
 public rooms, Newftead's, and Donner's ; and 
 feveral of the largeft lodging-houfes inScarbrough. 
 Faffing this, by a fhort turning to the right, you 
 arrive among the new buildings on the cliff; 
 which from their airy lituation, and fine view of 
 the fea, are held in much efteem, and general- 
 ly preferred to every other. They were buik 
 for the fole purpofe of lodging- houfes, either 
 divifible into feparate ranges of apartments, or the 
 whole to be taken together; moft of them are ac- 
 cordingly fitted with proper attention to the 
 convenience of lodgers, and a fuitable neatnefs. 
 At which foever of thefe a Granger's carriage 
 ftops, the obfequious throng furrounds its doors ; 
 a droll mixture of countenances, all varioufly 
 exprelfive of joy, as well as anxious hope, form 
 
 an amufing group. And if the alfurance of 
 
 a heart-felt welcome conveys any gratification, it 
 may be amply enjoyed by the ftranger, on his 
 arrival at Scarbrough. The afliduous croud of 
 
 various
 
 ( i6 ) 
 
 various profeilions, and as varied an appearance, 
 all with equal and unequivocal iincerity, congra- 
 tulate the vifitor, and the vifited. 
 
 THEIR fervices are tendered with alacrity, and 
 complaifance ; and you will in a moment be in- 
 formed, where you may, with the utmoft fafety 
 and convenience, bathe, or lodge ; who are the 
 beft of all poflible dreflers of hair ; where your 
 horfes may banquet ; and your table be covered 
 
 with plenty and elegance, or frugality, and 
 
 neatnefs ! 
 
 THERE are three modes of engaging lodgings 
 
 ufually purfued Securing a particular houfe, 
 
 apartment, or fituation, which may be preferred, 
 by letter to the proprietor, or a friend. Others 
 rather choofe for themfelves, on the fpot ; and 
 accordingly drive immediately to the fituation 
 they wifh for ; and if a board with lodgings 
 written on it is affixed, alight, vifit, and treat 
 for them. Some, efpecially fuch as arrive to- 
 wards the evening, find it eligible to make an 
 inn their refidence for the night ; and next morn- 
 ing deliberately leek a more permanent abode, 
 entirely adapted to their inclination and conve- 
 nience. 
 
 THE fituation of lodgings, may, for various 
 reafons, be differently preferred, according to the 
 tafte or convenience of each vifitor ; but in ge- 
 neral, the prices are as at moft other public places, 
 ten {hillings for a room per week fervants 
 rooms at half price ; towels and fheets included, 
 
 which,
 
 ( '7 ) 
 
 \vhich, as well as table-linen, &c. are warned at the 
 
 expence of thofe who ufe them the kitchen, 
 
 with all utenlils, both for cookery and the table, 
 
 twenty {hillings per week fervants hall, ten 
 
 millings ditto a cook expects half-a-guinea a 
 week. 
 
 FAMILIES who wifh to have their table ferved 
 from the rooms, the coffee-houfe, or any of the 
 inns, may be well and comfortably fupplied, at a 
 moderate rate ; dinners from eighteen -pence per 
 head, up to any price in general, far above what 
 might be expected j with reafonable confideration 
 for the expence of providing them. The profit 
 of thofe, by whom they are fupplied, apparently 
 arifes from the fale of their wines only ; and it 
 may be remarked, that thro* the extraordinary 
 nimblenefs and care, of thofe who convey din- 
 ners to the refpedive lodgings, the provifions are 
 always ferved hot, and well. 
 
 THERE are fome very fewhoufes, who have a 
 boarding table to accommodate their lodgers 
 the prices of thefe are from fifteen {hillings, to a 
 guinea per week. Single gentlemen often efta- 
 blifh a temporary mefs at one of the inns, the 
 coffee-houfe, or the long-rooms ; where they are 
 amply fupplied with whatever provifion the dii- 
 trict affords ; and may, befides, have the fatisfac- 
 tion of being fure they drink wholefome and 
 good wines, ingeneral, Oporto moft particularly. 
 
 IN full feafons, an ordinary is at times provided 
 by moft of the inns, and occafionally at the 
 
 B rooms.
 
 ( '8 ) 
 
 rooms. As at Bath,Tunbridge, Brighthelmftone, 
 and Margate, &c. many families who refort thi- 
 ther, choofe to have their provifion drefled at 
 home ; and fome alfo amufe themfelves by a ram- 
 ble in the market, to felecl what pleafes beft in its 
 firft appearance, as well as fubfequent excellence; 
 neither here is this mode at all unufual. For a 
 more particular account of the market, and other 
 neceffary informations, refpecting provifions, con- 
 veyances, job horfes, poft, and carriers, vide ift 
 and following pages of the appendix. 
 
 PR EVIOUS to any ufe of the Spaw Waters, or 
 even to bathing, it is both ufual, and indeed ex- 
 pedient, to confult fome gentleman in the medi- 
 cal line, even tho' 
 
 " All they need do, 
 
 " Be to give you a gentle cathartic or two; 
 
 " Firft get off the phlegm that adheres to the plicas, 
 
 " Then throw in a med'cine, that's pretty and fpicey!" 
 
 THE firft in the refpeclable line of phyficians, 
 as well by age, as academical rank, and atten- 
 dance at this place, is Dr. Mufhet, who ufually 
 lodges at Charles Wright's, grocer, corner of 
 Queen-ftreet ; next, Dr. Robert Knox, at Mr. 
 Glafs's, New-buildings ; the third, Dr. Forfythe, 
 at Mrs. Barton's, Fryer's entry. 
 
 THE gentlemen whofe names follow, are both 
 furgeons, and apothecaries, of approved abilities j 
 and whofe medicines, as well as ikill, may be re- 
 lied on : Meflrs. Wilkinfon and fon, Newbrough- 
 
 ftreet j
 
 ( 19 ) 
 
 flreet ; Meflrs. Travis and Wilfon, Newbrough- 
 ftreet ; Mr. Williford, Church-lane ; Mr. Keld, 
 corner of Long-room-ftreet ; Mr. Williamfon, 
 Long-room-ftreet, latefurgeon of the Marlbrough; 
 Mr. Crow, Merchant's-row j Mr. Ledfon, upper 
 part of Newbrough -flreet. , 
 
 BATHING. 
 
 THE Spaw, and the Sea, generally afford en- 
 gagements which fill up the earlier part of 
 each morning as, to bathe, and drink the waters, 
 are more frequently advifed, before breakfaft. 
 
 THE beautiful form of <Scarbrough fands, i$ 
 firft embellilhed by the confufed fcattering of the 
 bathing machines, difperfed about it, (efpecially in 
 a full feafon,) while the fun Hopes its early beams 
 upon them, as they are trained to, and from the 
 fea fome apparently half immerged in the tide- 
 others, juft harnefling to drag fome new trembling 
 fliudderers forward, where they " may iva/h and 
 be clean" or dip, and (like Achilles) become, i 
 except in one weak place, invulnerable 1 
 
 FROM the Cliff Parade Walk, and indeed every 
 furrounding height, this bufy morning fcene pre- 
 fents an entertaining " bird's eye view" which is 
 univerfally admired. 
 
 B 2 OF
 
 ( 20 ) 
 
 OF all the line fights (fays Mr. Anflie, on a 
 fimilar occafion) 
 
 " I neve* expeft to behold fuch another} 
 
 " How the ladies ftt up their clacks) 
 
 " All the while an old woman was rubbing their backs IT- 
 
 " O 'twas pritty to fee them put on their flannels, 
 
 " And then take to the water, like fo many fpaniels; 
 
 " While Tabby 
 
 " In fpite of good companypoor little foul, 
 
 " Shook both her ears, like a moufe in a bowl." 
 
 THERE are about twenty-fix large, roomy, and 
 commodious bathing machines, drawn out every 
 morning on the fands, for the fervice of the 
 company* They belong to three different pro- 
 prietors, who ufually folicit ftrangers on their 
 earlieft arrival, to employ their refpeclive vehicles. 
 Their names are, Fields, Hunter, and Laycock : 
 Two women attend each lady who bathes, as 
 guides ; and one man, every gentleman who re- 
 quires it : A lad attends with a horfe to draw 
 the machine to, and from, the water; which is 
 carried to any depth the bather pleafes : the horfe 
 is then taken off, and leaves the machine until 
 you have finifhed bathing ; when, upon a proper 
 iignal, he returns and draws the machine back to 
 its former flation. 
 
 THE regular price for bathing, is one milling 
 each time for the machine ; on ceafmg to bathe, 
 about the proportion of fuch another fum as that 
 amounts to, is ufually beftowed on the guides, and 
 lad, who conducts the machine, as a recompence 
 fpr the uncomfortable, fatiguing, amphibious life 
 
 they
 
 they lead ; and as a reward for their, in 
 general, very civil attentions, 
 
 6 P A W. 
 
 THE Spaw houfe, which is generally an object 
 for the earlieft vifit, lays South by Eaft from 
 the terrace of the cliff, which fronts the new b\iilt 
 houfes, and about 700 yards from it, a fteep de- 
 fcent, whofe winding path is rendered eafy, by 
 flights of fteps, conducts you to the lands; where 
 the fpaw appears fronting Eaftward to the fea, 
 with a huge cliff rifmg clofe behind it j the top of 
 which was 1 62 feet above high-water mark,untilthe 
 unfortunate accident which happened in Decem- 
 ber 1737, wnen tne ftaith, or wharf, adjoining 
 to the fpaw houfe, and the whole furface where- 
 on it flood, gave way in a manner too extraor- 
 dinary not to be related, (exactly as tranfmitted 
 to us) in its proper place. But it is now in a re- 
 gular, and fufficiently obfervable manner, effectu- 
 ally fecured againft the violence of ftormy win- 
 ter's waves, which, -r-more than once, have 
 endangered its fpring. 
 
 " THIS was found out, (fays Dr. Wittie, anno 
 <e 1667) about forty years ago, by one Mrs. Far- 
 * c row, a gentlewoman of good repute, who lived 
 
 B 3 c at
 
 " at Scarbrough : She walked fometimes this 
 " way, and obferving the ftones, by which this 
 " water patted, to have received a ruffet tin&ure, 
 " and finding the water to have an acid tafte dif- 
 " ferent from ordinary fpring water, and difcern- 
 " ing it to receive a purple tinclure from gall, 
 " (being a difcreet gentlewoman, and alfo phyfic- 
 " ally addicted) me thought it probable to have 
 " fome medicinal quality ; and thereupon did 
 " both try it herfelf, and perfwaded others alfo, 
 " that were fickly, to drink of it ; finding that 
 " it did both loofe the belly and alfo amend 
 " the ftomach, and cure fome diftempers ; it be- 
 " came the ufual phyfic of the inhabitants of 
 '* Scarbrough ; and by degrees it came into ufe 
 * and reputation, among thofe of the Eaft-riding 
 " near adjoining; at length it became well known 
 ** to the citizens, of York, and the gentry of the 
 * county ; yea, and to feveral perfons of quality, 
 " who, upon the large recommendations of fuch 
 < as knew its operations, having made trial of it, 
 " came above a hundred miles to drink of it, pre- 
 " ferring it before all other waters they had for- 
 merly frequented ; nay, fays the Doctor, I have 
 " met with feveral that have been at the Italian, 
 " French, and German fpaws, who prefer this for 
 <c its fpeedy paffage and innocent working, both 
 *' ways, before them all," 
 
 A traditionary account fays, feveral of the neigh- 
 bouring gentlemen, and others, who wereloyalifts, 
 having affifted in defending the caftle of Scar- 
 brough, againft Sir John Meldrurri, and the Par- 
 liament
 
 (- n ) 
 
 liament forces, fuffered much by fcurvy, from 
 long confinement and unwholfome food ; but on 
 drinking the waters of this fpring, were very 
 fhortly altogether recovered ! 
 
 THE very general ufe, and wide extended fame 
 of thefe waters, owed much to ftrong recommen- 
 dations from the great Dr. Mead ; among whofe 
 patients of diftincHon, fuch benefit was received, 
 as to bring them into the fulleft vogue. 
 
 SUBSCRIPTIONS paid here are 73. 6d. for each 
 perfon who drinks the water : as. 6d. of this 
 goes to the women who fcrve the water ; and 
 55. is received by the corporation towards re- 
 imburfing their heavy expence in building, repair- 
 ing, and fupporting the fpaw houfe, platform, and 
 walk. 
 
 The S P A W WATER, 
 
 CHYMICAL experiments, made on thefe 
 waters, with a view to inveftigate the pro- 
 portion of each mineral, or other falubrious prin- 
 ciple they contain, have proved highly favourable 
 to the reputation of Scarbrough fpaw, in a com- 
 parative view, with other medicinal fprings in 
 England. It has, from analyfation, been demon- 
 
 B 4 ftrated
 
 ( 24 ) 
 
 ftrated that they contain a much larger propor- 
 tion of the fame principles than the juftly celebra- 
 ted waters of Bath, We fhould have been happy 
 to prefent our readers, with an abridged fketch of 
 thefe demonftrations, but a profeflional know- 
 Ie4ge, which we have not, is requifite, in order 
 to form a judicious felection. And learning alfo, 
 that a regular and accurate hiftory of this place, 
 neighbourhood, and productions, (efpecially in- 
 cluding its mineral waters,) is in hand ; we beg 
 leave to refer the curious (unwilling: to fufpend 
 their inquiries until that work appears,) to the 
 medical gentlemen of this place; and the writings 
 of Brs. Wittie, Simpfon, Shaw ? Lucas, and Short. 
 
 IT may, however, be proper for us to remark 
 in general, that this water, frefh taken up, is found 
 to be extremely clear, and tranfparent ; of a very 
 quick and pungent tafte, and leaves a pleafant 
 flavour on the palate, It is mildly opening, and 
 confiderably diuretic, gradually cleanfing and dif- 
 charging by the pores, and other excretory paf- 
 fages, many kinds of peccant matter injurious to 
 health. It poffeffes the peculiar and moft defirable 
 quality, of bracing and ftrengthening, at the fame 
 time it pleafantly difencumbers the body; com- 
 fortably aiding all the natural fecretions. It abun- 
 dantly invigorates relaxed, or debilitated ftomachs; 
 and very much promotes the firft concoction, 
 whence 
 
 " Good digeftion waits on appetite j 
 
 *' And h^lth on fcotb." SHAKSPEARF.
 
 COMMON experience, and daily fads, may be 
 referred to as tefts of its efficacy, in fcorbutic 
 habits, bilious complaints, afthmas, jaundice, 
 gravel, ftranguary, and uterine diforders. In all 
 hypocondriac and hyfterical affections ; killing 
 all forts of worms, and expelling their nefts ; in- 
 veterate obftructions of moft kinds ; and to carry 
 off the fordes after intermittent fevers, agues, or 
 fmall poxj it is alfo celebrated for curing barren* 
 nefs, and preventing abortions, 
 
 IT is, by a judicious mode of adminiftering, 
 eafily accommodated to the tender and delicate ; 
 nor will it fail to act with fufficient effect, when 
 perfevered in, on the moft athletic and robuft. 
 Sedentary perfons, and thofe whofe power's of di- 
 geftjon are naturally languid, invariably proclaim 
 the comfortable change they foon experience from 
 the ufe of it, TQO little exercife, and too much 
 animal or alcalefcent food ; late hours, with an 
 unwholfome feclufion from free and open air, 
 lay up the feed, which produces a tremendous 
 lift of diforders; and, the confequences of a town 
 life, (as it is now generally palled during the 
 winter months,) render this water, of all others 
 moft advifable as an antidote againft them. Low- 
 nefs of fpirits, hypocondriac diforders, and un- 
 pleafant humour; reftlefs uncomfortable hours 
 (when reft is moft defirable) often follow thofe 
 irregular divifions of time, and unfeafonable en- 
 tertainments of fafhionable life, which too fre- 
 quently, precede, {till more ferious complaints, 
 But, to avert the conferences of fuel} injudicious
 
 living, and to reftore, or eftabliffi health, and that 
 feftive good humour, of which an unencumbered 
 body, is the natural parent; there is not known a 
 medicine fo pleafantly efficacious, as what flows 
 from the fountain of thefe fprings. 
 
 One complaint, it muft however be acknow- 
 ledged, they are fubjed to produce, which is, an 
 unufual impatience refpeding the hours of meals! 
 
 TH E very plain and general maxims, of regula- 
 rity in moderate hours, as well as diet ; exercife 
 in the open air ; and the chearful amufements of 
 the place, rationally purfued, may be considered 
 as the regimen to be obferved with thefe waters, 
 which (like a certain other very defirable, as well 
 as pleafant engagement in life) mould never be 
 entered upon '* lightly, wantonly, or unadvifedly!" 
 The exact proportion, and feafon of taking them, 
 ought to be implicitly fubmitted to the medical 
 director, whom each vifitor confults ; always re- 
 membering, that medicines, whether natural, 
 fimple, -or compounded, which have a known 
 power to do great good, may poffefs the quality, 
 when mifapplied and injudicioufly taken, of do- 
 ing at leaft, as much harm. 
 
 " IN December 1737, the ftaith (or wharf) ad- 
 " joining tp the fpaw-houfe, a large body of 
 " ftone, bound by timbers, and a fence againft 
 " the fea for the fecurity of the houfe, in a moil 
 <c extraordinary manner gave way ; it was 76 
 w feet long, and 14 feet high, and in weight, 
 
 "by
 
 * by computation, 2463 tons. The houfe and 
 " buildings were upon a level with this ftaith, 
 u at the North-end of which, and near adjoining 
 " to it, upon a fmall rife above the level of the 
 " lands, (and at the foot of the ftairs that lead 
 " up to the top of the faid ftaith, and to the 
 " houfe) were the fpaw-wells. 
 
 ON Wednefday December 28, in the morn- 
 " ing, a great crack was heard from the cellar of 
 " \htfpaw -houfe^ and upon fearch, the cellar was 
 *' found rent; but, at the time, no farther notice 
 " was taken of it. The night following another 
 *' crack was heard, and in the morning the in- 
 " habitants were furprifed to fee the ftrange pof- 
 ** ture it ftood in, and got feveral gentlemen to 
 " view it, who being of opinion the houfe could 
 " not ftand long, advifed them to get out their 
 '* goods 5 but they ftill continued in it. 
 
 " ON Thurfday following, between two and 
 " three in the afternoon, anotKer crack was 
 <; heard, and the top of the cliff behind it rent 
 " 224 yards in length, and 36 in breadth, and 
 *' was all in motion, flowly defcending, and fo 
 " continued, till dark. The ground thus rent, 
 "contained about an acre of pafture land, had 
 *' cattle then feeding upon it, and was on a 
 " level with the main land, but funk near 17 
 " yards perpendicular. The fides of the cliff 
 " neareft tiicfpaw ftood as before, but were rent 
 " and broken in many places, and forced towards 
 <; the fea. The ground, when funk, lay upon a 
 
 level,
 
 ( 38 ) 
 
 ** level, and the cattle next morning were ftill 
 " feeding on it ; the main land being as a wall 
 " on the Wefl, and fome part of the fide of the 
 * c cliff as a wall to the Eaft ; but the whole gave 
 " to the view fuch a confufed profpecl:, as could 
 
 " hardly be defbribed, 
 / 
 
 * c THE rent of the top of the cliff aforefaid, 
 ft from the main land, was 224 yards. The rent 
 * c continued from each end, down the fide of the 
 *' cliff, to the fands, and was meafured on the 
 ic fands from one end to the other 168 yards, 
 fc viz. 143 South of the ftaith and fpaw wells, 
 " and i oo to the North of the fpaw. 
 
 " As the ground funk, the earth or fapd (on 
 * c which the people ufed to walk) under the cliff 
 * c rofe upwards out of its natural pofition, for 
 ^ above i oo yards in length, on each fide of the 
 " ftaith, North and South ; and was in fome 
 *' places fix, and in others feven yards above its 
 " former level. The fpaw wells rofe with it ; 
 " but as foon as it began to rife, the water at the 
 well ceafed running, and was gone. 
 
 " THE ground thus rifen, was 26 yards broad: 
 c< The ftaith, which was computed at 2463 tons, 
 * c rofe entire and whole 12 feet higher than its 
 " former pofition, (but rent a little in the front) 
 ** and was forced forwards, towards the fea, 20 
 <e yards. 
 
 " THE moft reafonable account then given for 
 " this phenomenon, and the occafion of the de- 
 
 " ftruftion
 
 " ftruciion of the ftaith zndfpaiv houfe, and the 
 " lofs (for fome time) of thefpaw fpring, is as 
 " follows : When this ftaith, or wharf, was 
 " lately rebuilt, (it being thrown down by the 
 " violence of the fea) Mr'. Vincent, engineer for 
 " the building of the new pier at Scarbrough, was 
 " defired to rebuild this ftaith at the fpafia; and 
 " digging a trench to lay the foundation thereof, 
 " with great difficulty cleared it of water ; and 
 " when he had done it^ could at feveral parts 
 " thereof very eafily thruft his ftick or cane, up 
 <c to the handle ; from whence it is concluded, 
 " that all the earth under the ftaith was of a po- 
 " rous, fpongy, fwampy nature, and was much 
 " the fame below the foundation of the fpaw 
 " houfe, and all under the fides of the cliff ad- 
 " joining, as well North as South, 
 
 *' ALLOWING this to be fad, the folid earth. 
 " linking on the top of the cliff, as aforementi- 
 " oned, (which was of fo vaft a weight, as by 
 " computation to amount to 261,360 tons) pref- 
 " fing gradually upon and into the fwampy, 
 " boggy earth beneath, it would of courfe, and 
 " did, raife the earth and fands as before noticed, 
 " and fo effected the mifchief we have parti- 
 " cularifed. 
 
 " BUT, very luckily for the town and public, 
 " after a diligent fearch, and clearing away the 
 " ruins, they found again \\\tfpaiu fpring ; and 
 * e on trial, had the plealure to find the water ra- 
 M ther improved, than impaired, by the difafter. 
 
 <c And
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 " And now the whole is in a more flourifhing 
 " condition than ever." 
 
 IN the year 1739, this building was raifed to 
 its prefent form, which, as it has fomething the 
 air of a fort or caftle, fo has it alfo a regular 
 Governor appointed, who fuperintends the con- 
 dud of all fubalterns in the garrifon, carefully 
 regulating each watch, ward, and diflin&ion of 
 apartments : A number of diftreffed widows are 
 appointed by the corporation, who keep the dif- 
 ferent rooms and accommodations in order, and 
 prefent the waters. 
 
 MR. Thomas Headley (for fuch is the name of 
 his excellence the prefent governor) is a perfonage 
 of entire tivility, and unexceptionable conduct; 
 which is far more than could with juftice be af- 
 ferted of fome among his predeceflbrs. 
 
 " Hail generous fountain; hail falubrious fource 
 " Of ftrength and beauty ! 
 
 ' Sicknefs owns the power of every rill 
 
 " That laves yon vaulted cliffs ; while Scarbro' boafts 
 " A triple portion of the healing ftrength ; 
 " In her famed fpaw, that treafures all its ftores, 
 *' Where yonder roof, eredled on the waves, 
 ** Crotefquely lurks beneath the pendent cliff." 
 
 AMUSE.
 
 A M USE M E N T S. 
 
 AFTER breakfaft, the ufual avocations and 
 employments of all public places, here alfo 
 fucceed in their turn, as fancy may lead, or con- 
 venience direct. Morning parties for country 
 rides, fally forth with their gay and lively trains, 
 in purfuit of health or amufement ; returning, 
 for the moft part, gratified by a competent {hare 
 of both ; impatient only for their hair-drelTer, 
 and dinner! 
 
 WHILE to the South, we read, fuch or fu.ch a 
 treaty of marriage is " fald to be on foot ;" here 
 we find them often happily on horfeback ; and 
 now, as in the times of antient chivalry, a knight, 
 or an efquire, is coniidered as appearing no where 
 more manly, or more acceptable, in the eye of 
 his fair ' Lady Love,' than on a handfome, well- 
 caparifoned freed, obfequioufly ready to efcort 
 and attend, wherefoever her pleafure may direct 
 the route. 
 
 WHFN the tide ferves,^ towards mid-day, as 
 many as wifh for enjoying to the utmofl, every 
 wholefome breeze of fci air, whether on their 
 horfes or in carriages, parade the fandy beach. 
 There, a large portion of the company affemble, 
 
 and
 
 and compofe one of tne moft chearful medleys, 
 with which the eye can be attracted : Variety of 
 equipages, and parties on horfeback ; the ftately 
 coach, fplendid chariots, and towering phaetons, 
 contrafted by many a prancing rider ; or here 
 and there a fober, fteady, double horfe; perhaps, 
 occasionally, -an humble " cbaije and one!" Thus, 
 each purfues the moft eligible or convenient me- 
 thod, of enjoying the falutary exhalation, and 
 takes fea water in, at every breath. 
 
 THIS pleafant confufion of objects, is heightened 
 by the different rates at which they glide, while 
 meafuring forward and back, the utmoft limit of 
 the fands. The flow pace of infirmity, or tender 
 health; the calm compofure of more tranquil 
 age, nimbly paffed, in a fleet fweeping trot, by 
 the aftive chariotteer j or, fome fair amazonian, 
 cantering lively along with her attentive fuite, 
 might fufficiently engage the admiring fpectator : 
 But, added to this, he fees a rich mafs of fixed 
 objects ; the femicircle of a floping town, and all 
 its motley coloured houfcs, church, and caftle, 
 which fpread out an uncommonly fine back 
 ground. What can be finer than its effect from 
 the cliff hill, which at the fame moment com- 
 mands a group of ihipping, in all their varied 
 ftates ; fome on the flocks half built fome corn- 
 pleat others cluttering together on float, within 
 the pier, delivering their loads, or taking frefh 
 cargoes in fome, the " Jhip boys clambering on 
 the mqft" altering their rigging others again 
 prepared to fail while the fea opens to the S. E.
 
 ( 33 ) 
 
 a boundlefs expance, oft times adorned by paf- 
 fing fleets, or many a fail of ftraggling mips 
 coafting along ! The eye feems never tired with 
 fuch a view ; and it is as difficult to defcribe 
 juftly, as to quit it without reluctance. 
 
 WHERE many rich and fafhionable perfonages 
 are collected, the ingenious of various denomi- 
 nations will always follow, in the flattering hope 
 that their inventions or rarities, and collections, 
 may draw them into notice, and conliderably 
 promote their emolument. The ufual attendants 
 on other public places of this clafs find it in ge- 
 neral well to their account to exhibit each differ- 
 ent mode of entertainment at Scarbrough ; and 
 the fucceflion of fuch amufements is as ample and 
 uninterrupted, as can poflibly be expected. 
 
 MORNING parties at the rooms need not be 
 wanted.: By application to the M. C. they will 
 readily be concurred in, or formed, for thofe who 
 prefer the morning exercife of fitting ftill, and 
 the eternal verdure of the card table, to that of 
 clumfy nature, with all her varied tints, grotefque 
 fcenes, or uncouth rufticity! Wide alfo is the 
 field for fuch as 
 
 " Spare no expences themfelves in adorning, 
 " "Who go about buying fine things all the morning; 
 " And cards all the night, take the trouble to play, 
 " To get back the money they fpent in the day !" 
 
 SHOPPING, efpecially for articles of foreign ele- 
 gance, is a very ufual amufemeiit among the la- 
 
 C dies,
 
 < 34 ) 
 
 dies, who are not unfrequently attended by the 
 gentlemen. They may be all tinted in many 
 whimfical, as well as ufeful articles, at the cele- 
 brated NANNY SALMONS * ; and, indeed, at di- 
 vers other fhops, both fexes have only to attend, 
 and they will not only find various things they 
 really want, but very many others they may 
 fancy they do. 
 
 ROOMS, balls, public teas, breakfafts, and the 
 play-houfe, are undoubtedly ftaple entertain- 
 ments j and all of them, (efpecially the two /#/?,) 
 
 abundantly 
 
 * A diftinguiflied and venerable perfbn, who may trace, and can 
 prove her lineage for beyond the conqueft, either by William or 
 the Romans (he being the undoubted daughter of Adam and of 
 Eve, (" Let Bourbon or Nafiau go higher") : but, the family be- 
 ing numerous, and herfelf a daughter, fhe inherited nb territorial 
 pofieffions. A difpofition honeftly induftrious, however, and an 
 aclive civility, fupplied its place ; opening a path to comfortable 
 fufficiency, and efteem. This track (he invariably pnrfued ; living 
 in credit ; and at length adding to a numerous arid reputable fa- 
 mily, when fifty-one years old, another fan, now aged thirty-one.- 
 Vivacity> good-humour, and health, are, by the blefling of Provi- 
 dence, (till continued to her at a period much beyond the ufual li- 
 mits of either ! Born at the beginning of the prefent century, flie is 
 as likely to fee it concluded, as any perfon of her age HOW alive. - 
 She ftill leads an active, as well as benevolent life, in chearfulnefs 
 and content. The remembrance of her part hours has nothing to 
 embitter the prefent : and (he continues to laugh, and be very civil; 
 to eat her fifh and potatoes buttling about with the unabated vT? 
 gour and diligence of her earlier days : Her mind unclouded, and. 
 her limbs, (except perhaps a corn or two) unimpaired, flexible, and 
 aftive. If real diftrefs prefents itfelf, her liberal mite is never with- 
 held ; and what her own abilities deny, with untaught and affect- 
 ing eloquence fhe fupplicates, (feldom in vain) from the better 
 
 provided. When ladies and gentlemen honor her famed repo- 
 
 fitory of mifcellaneous curiofities with a vifit, NANNY SALMON 
 (aged 8a) ftill trips up Hairs, with all her native politenefs and 
 alacrity, to attend them.
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 abundantly gratifying at Scarbrough ; the a&ors 
 being in general felicitous to perform their r'e- 
 fpedive parts with tafte, and many of them prove 
 fuccefsful in the art of pleaiing. The theatre is 
 alfo well adapted to accommodate the fpeclators. 
 
 ASSEMBLY-ROOMS. 
 
 MR. Newftead's and Mr. Donner's, both in 
 Long-Room-ftreet, are properly ftored 
 and accommodated with whatever is requilite in 
 that line of employ, not excepting various arti- 
 cles of the higheft luxury and expence ; among 
 them cooks and cellars, equal to gratify perfons 
 of the firft fafliion and tafte ; for whofe enter- 
 tainment, grand dinners are often provided, with a 
 profufion, both of foreign, and domeftic delicacies. 
 
 A SET of rules, for the better accommodation 
 of ftrangers, and to regulate thofe, whole bufi- 
 nefs it is to adminifter to their public amufe- 
 ments at the rooms, were agreed to, and efta- 
 bliflied, as follows : 
 
 SCARBROUGH, Sept. 6, 1783, 
 
 It being found necejjary to a/certain, for the future ', th? 
 
 rates of fubfcription to the public affembly-rooms of 
 
 this place, and to pul a Jiop to growing impofitions, 
 
 a general meeting has beer, held of all the prefent 
 
 C 2
 
 ( 36 ) 
 
 fubfcribers, and a committee, affembled atfuch meet- 
 ing, have, upon full confideration, agreed upon the 
 following rates and rules, as proper to be obferved 
 and conformed to by the keepers of both the aj/embly- 
 rooms ) and which the committee ha've thought jit ty 
 ad'vertife for the infonnation of the public. 
 
 RULES/O;* the LONG-ROOMS at SCARBRO'. 
 
 I. 
 
 THAT every fubfcriber pay for the room and 
 lights, i os. 6d. 
 
 II. 
 
 THAT there be one drefs ball, and two undrefs 
 nights, at each room every week. 
 
 or the BALL-NIGHTS. 
 
 I. 
 
 THAT every fubfcriber may either fubfcribe 
 half a guinea for the feafon, or pay i s. 6d. ad- 
 mittance each ball-night, for which they will be 
 entitled to tea this optional. 
 
 II. 
 
 THAT all gentlemen who dance country dances, 
 pay 2S. for mufic. 
 
 III. 
 
 THAT every perfon who calls for cakes, negus, 
 &c. pay for the fame. 
 
 IV. 
 
 NONSUBSCRIBERS pay 53. admittance. 
 
 RULES
 
 ( 37 ) 
 
 RULES for UNDRESS-NIGHTS. 
 
 I. 
 THAT every perfon who drinks tea pay is. 
 
 II. 
 ALL gentlemen who dance, pay as. for mufic. 
 
 III. 
 
 EVERY perfon who calls for cakes, negus, &c. 
 pay for the fame. 
 
 IV. 
 
 NOKSUBSCRIBERS to pay 2s. admittance, and 
 fubjecl to the above rules. 
 
 ROBINSON FARSLDE, Efij. 
 Mafer of the Cercmcm 
 
 We tie refpeclive keepers of the q/fcmbly -rooms at 
 Scarbrough, having perufed and duly conjldered the 
 above rates and regulations, do hereby agree punctually 
 to obfirve and confirm to the fame; and not to rcjuire 
 directly, cr indirectly, any higher rates from any gen- 
 tleman or lady, an ball-nights or ether nights, 'than as 
 above-mentioned. Witnefs our bands, 
 
 WILLIAM NEWSTEAD, 
 EDWARD DONNER. 
 
 BESIDES fuch amufements as hunting, {hooting, 
 and courfmg, which gentlemen, acquainted in 
 the neighbourhood, may obtain occalional leave to 
 puriue ; andexclufive of the pleafant rides which 
 will be hereafter enumerated , fea parties, are, in 
 
 3 fine
 
 fine fettled weather, in the month of Auguft, 
 abundantly entertaining to fuch as enjoy little 
 trips, around the Bay, in failing boats, fea fifhing, 
 with the profpeft of a fine coaft from the feaward. 
 Boats for failing (and to accommodate parties of 
 ladies and gentlemen, as well as others of fmaller 
 dimentions, convenient to fifh from) may here 
 bs at any time hired. There are three pleafure 
 boats kept folelyforthe accommodation of thecom- 
 pany ; and may be had at a moment's notice : 
 the largeft, which is about^ 30 tons, called the 
 Granby, belonging to Mr. William Henderfon, 
 has an exceeding good .cabin, with bed places, fo 
 that in cafe of bad weather, or a contrary wind 
 fpringing up and detaining a party at fea all night, 
 they may be enabled to make a very tolera- 
 ble fhift. The price is one guinea for the day ; 
 the other two boats are fmaller, and may be had 
 for half the price. 
 
 THE intelligent, James Field, (of the bathing 
 machines) will readily give all farther requifite 
 inftructions, as to proper times of tides, baits for 
 fifhing, &c. Himfelf a fifherman, and native of 
 this place ; no. one is better qualified to inform, 
 or more ready to oblige. 
 
 HADDOCK, fmall Whiting, Codling, Gurnet, 
 and Mackarel frequently come fo near the fhore, 
 as to be angled for with fuccefs from the outward 
 pier. Cobble boats put off behind the caftle, or 
 near the rocks, Eaftward in the bay, to fifh with 
 lines, and catch fmall fized fifh, often almoft as f aft 
 
 as
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 as they can bait. This amufement, however, de- 
 pends on the appetite of the fifli, and the wind 
 bein"- off more ; when both are favourable it is 
 
 O 
 
 highly fuccefsful ; but obfervable, that they bite 
 moil greedily as" the evening doles. 
 
 THERE is another mode of line fifhing here, 
 which though not without the fame common un- 
 certainties, incident to whatever purfuit, depends 
 on the ftate of two fickle elements, often affords 
 good paftime : we mean angling for Billit, Parr, 
 and Cole fifh, from the neighbouring rocks, or in 
 a cobble boat anchored a little off. When in a hu- 
 mour to bite, thefe fifti afford much divTrfion, and 
 require far more play to kill, than the fmaller tribe 
 of falt-water fifh in common do. As a pleafant 
 change, and ofanunufualkindjladiesandgentlemen 
 fometimes repair (with well ftored panniers) to 
 take a cold repaft, among the grotefque rocks of 
 Clowton-Wyke, four miles from Scarbrough. A 
 boat provided with bait, rods, lines, &c. fhould 
 be ordered round in waiting : the landlord at 
 Clowton public-houfe, is a ready guide through 
 the fields to the cliff, and finds many requiiites for 
 the completion of the day's entertainment. 
 
 IN this, and as in very many other fituations 
 about Scarbrough, ladies will find a thick pair of 
 ihoes, a good fpy glafs, and a great coat, admira- 
 ble auxiliaries. 
 
 WHEN the tide fuits, there is good fiming, either 
 from the boat, or wore j but it is always indil- 
 
 penlible
 
 ( 40 ) 
 
 penfible to the pleafure of fuch an excurfion, that 
 the wind mould be off land ; when the water in 
 the Little Bay becomes perfectly fmooth, and 
 even ladies, without danger, alarm, or inconve- 
 nience, may, if they choofe, go on board, and 
 fifli from the cobble. 
 
 THE view of Clowton-Wyke is ftrikingly fa- 
 vagc and entertaining, (on various accounts,) to 
 inland vifitors ; often, a fucceffion of veffels paf- 
 fmg or repaffing, (landing near the more, enliven 
 the fcene ; from behind the high point of land 
 on either end pf this fmall inlet, they gra- 
 dually reveal themfelves, as it were, in a moving 
 picture ; firft a bowfprit, a maft and fail, the reft 
 hidden by a rugged line of rocky cliff, but foon 
 gliding on, all the fhip appears agreeably heigh- 
 tened by the romantic foreground, which was juft 
 before its fcreen ! Pleafant it is, alib, to trace their 
 iilent, fteady courfe ; that fmooth yfoz//>7g-progrefs 
 by which thoufands of leagues are, in fine wea- 
 ther, delightfully traverfed by thofe who frequent 
 the ocean ! Here alfo the abrupt precipices which 
 ihelter and over-hang behind the maffes of high 
 rock, .tumbled irregularly around the hollow 
 found of " many waters," flowly rolling their 
 vaft and fluggifh load againft them, and burning 
 at your feet, have an effect of folemn grandeur, 
 that is magnificently delightful ! They fill the 
 mind with recollections of thofe immenfe, and fu- 
 blime works of nature, fo finely defcribed by 
 writers, who have travelled among the Northern, 
 and little cultivated regions of Europe. 
 
 BUT,
 
 Brr, to the whhniical mind of a fanciful genius, 
 the contemplations of fuch a iituation, has occa- 
 fionly fuggefted notions ludicrouily bombaft. Dr. 
 Kenrick, in order to correfpond in vaftnefs, when 
 he imagines a giant diverting himfelf on the rug- 
 ged declivity of an abrupt mountain, clofe to the 
 fea fhore, thus defcribes his fituation and accou- 
 trements : 
 
 His angle-rod, made of a ftunly oak ; 
 His line, a cable, that in ftorms ne'er broke j 
 Hi? hook he baited with a dragon'^ tail ; 
 He fat upon a rock, and bobb'd for whale 1 
 
 TOWN of S C A R B R O U G H. 
 
 THERE is fomething altogether noble, as well 
 as beautiful, in the iituation of Scarbrough, 
 when a clear atmofpheregivesyouafairviewbothof 
 it and the vaft and irregular bay in which it is placed. 
 This can only be well feen from the caftle cliff, 
 or ibme of the other near commanding heights. 
 
 o o 
 
 Whitby promontary is its Northern limit ; and 
 Flambrough Head terminates it to the South. A 
 diftance of near 4^ miles, is here marked by an irre- 
 gular undilating line of cliffs, that iweep inwards to- 
 wards the land; at the bottom of the moft retired 
 circle, formed by which, and nearly in the mid- 
 dle of the huge fwecp, Scarbrough town is feat- 
 
 cd
 
 ( 42 ) 
 
 ed to the S. E. facing the Weft end of the Dog- 
 ger bank, from which it is diftant fixteen leagues 
 and a half. It is 42 miles N. E. by E. from York, 
 and 235 N. of London : Long. o. 3. E. Lat. 54. 
 
 1 8. N. 
 
 The cq/lle /&/'//, is feen confpicuous at every point, 
 boldly projecting to the N. W. as it were its 
 champion and defender, by fea, as well as land. 
 The retreat of robbers firft diftinguifhed that cele- 
 brated fite, where Rome now ftands, which af- 
 terwards became the well known feat of empire, 
 and miftrefs of the world ! That of a much wor- 
 thier race, honeft, induftrious frfhermen, is faid 
 to have marked the one where Scarbrough now 
 appears ! Its fituation afforded a defirable fhelter 
 fox- their veffels, and their firft huts were erected 
 where they might be beft defended by that high 
 cliff, on which the caftle has fince been built. In 
 procefs of time, and from the addition and 
 jncreafe of other inhabitants, their manfions ex- 
 tended, both along the circuit of its bay, and up 
 the hill, until Scarbrough gradually took its pre- 
 fent crefcent-like form, and became one of the 
 moll refpectable towns on this caaft ; placed on 
 the fteep fides of its femicircular bay, bounded 
 and' over-looked by the romantic Ca(He-hill 5 and 
 its lofty ruins, on one iide ; adorned by the gay 
 and clean looking new buildings on the cliff ; it 
 forms a moft pleafmg appearance, either from the 
 fea, caftle, cliff, terrace walk, or hill immediately 
 above the fpaw. The great improvements of the 
 upper town are of a modern date j all its former 
 
 ilreets
 
 ( 43 ) 
 
 ftreets and houfes, nay, its town-hall and public 
 buildings, argue little in favour of the tafte, or 
 magnificence, of its ancient citizens. The furface 
 which Scarbrough covers, is more extenfive than 
 might be imagined ; and, when curiofity leads a 
 {banger to examine it attentively, he will be per* 
 fuaded, that the number of its inhabitants cannot 
 be much exaggerated, when reckoned at near 
 eleven thoufand. In the year 1745, an accurate 
 account was taken, and they then amounted to 
 upwards of ten thoufand. 
 
 IT might be confide r ed as a dull employment, 
 either for ourfelves or readers, to enumerate and 
 defcribe, every ftreet or communication, in a large 
 old built town ; but we may in general remark, 
 that the form or ground plat, of ieveral among 
 them, is particularly good, and capable (by the ad- 
 dition of betterpaveinent, and footways) to afford 
 defirable rciidences for many a family. 
 
 TH fame ftile of building houfes, thronging 
 clofe to each other, and forming miferable narrow 
 lanes, prevailed univerfally among our ancestors 
 in England , and fome very unpleafing fpecimens 
 of that tafte, full fubfift here ; but principally in 
 the lower part of the town, and the Iteeper decli- 
 vities. A fimilar difpofition of houfes, and nar- 
 row confined ftreets, was generally adopted, even 
 in cities built in hot climates. With us, warmth 
 was afligned ; and among thofe, coolnefs," as the 
 inducement ! But every ill confequence of ob-
 
 ( 44 ) 
 
 ilrucled circulation of air, was, and mull be, the 
 fruit of fuch injudicious conclufions. 
 
 THE plague has. .never appeared in England 
 fince the great^ffijT^m London ; fo deftructive 
 
 to the clofe built, unhealthy manfions of its inha- 
 bitants, in 1 666 j and fo beneficial to their fuc- 
 ceffors, that its not extending ftill wider, feems all 
 we have now to regret I From the lower hives 
 of Scarbrough houfes, (where induftry and popu- 
 lation give them a double title to that term,) fuch 
 fwarms of inhabitants are poured forth, on a Sun- 
 day or funfhine holiday, all in their gay eft attire 
 and pleafant looks, as have a moft chearful appear- 
 ance. Among the ruddy youths, many a fturdy 
 lad, with Hreaming locks, and fierce cocked hat, 
 the joyous mariner of the place, is eafily diftin- 
 guilhed happy beiide fome buxom damfel, deck- 
 td with ftreamer ribbonds, but moft by the en- 
 chanting hue of rofy health, and love's ihort 
 blooming fpring 1 Strangers have been furprifed, 
 a\s well as entertained, by the unexpectedly vaft 
 holiday migrations, from their fcenes of induftri- 
 oiis je chit ion, among the inhabitants of Scarbro*. 
 Handfome, even lovely females, gliding by groups 
 before them, in all their beauty, " like tkefihcr 
 4C moon from behind a dark cloud in the Eaft!" From 
 
 */ 
 
 fiich ftocks, havebranched forth numbers of thofe, 
 who conduct the ufeful produce of every clime, to 
 this our ifle ; the great mart for every valuable 
 produce and which, almoft drains the countries 
 that afford them ! With furprife, the Briton finds 
 the native foil of each, that he though't flowing 
 
 with
 
 ( 45 ) 
 
 with oil and wine ; with milk and honey ; far 
 worfe accommodated therewith, than his own 
 metropolis! but for all that is fplendid, and lux- 
 urious; for all that other kingdoms produce, de- 
 iirable in this ; he is indebted to the mariners 
 noble art, and dangerous toil ; as well as the Ipirit 
 of trade ^ that fource of wealth, and root even of 
 nobility in England ! 
 
 So numerous a body of people as inhabited this 
 place 2 GO years ago, could not have been either col- 
 lected, ormaintained, withoutfomeleadingbranch 
 of employ ; and it is therefore realbnable to pre- 
 fumethe extent of Scarbrough trade, in whatever ar- 
 ticle it might confift, was then much greater than 
 we at prefent may arrive to the exact knowledge of. 
 
 THE mifcellaneous articles of commerce which 
 now employ the bulk of feveral dalles in Scarbro', 
 are very various, and therefore in each particular 
 detail fo little confpicuous, that it led a gentleman, 
 of great accuracy in his general remarks, Mr. 
 Pennant, to pronounce it <: a place abfolutely wtb- 
 ciit trade" We beg leave to differ from him ; for 
 altho' fhip-building be the principal, and indeed 
 a very coniiderable manufacture, as well as article 
 of commerce at Scarbrough ; and a fingle houfe 
 in the weaving of fail-cloth, are ajl that make any 
 diftinguifhed figure in the public eye ; yet the 
 conftant neceffary imports for theplace, and neigh- 
 bourhood ; the exportation of oats, potatoes, 
 cured pork meat, of various denominations, and 
 other produce, coaftwifej not only employ many 
 
 hands
 
 ( 46 ) 
 
 hands, but confiderable fums of money and 
 though each article, may be thought of little 
 weight in a commercial fcale, the aggragate of 
 them, is fufficient to fupport a number of perfons 
 in. comfortable fufficiency, and not a few in a de- 
 gree of affluence. 
 
 JEWS. 
 
 THOUGH there is at Scarbrough, a very fuffi- 
 cient circulation of money, to attract men fo 
 fhrewdly attentive to gain, as the children of Ifrad; 
 it is remarkable that none are here to be found, 
 of any denomination. It is probable that the ge- 
 neral induftry, and good fenfe, of the inhabitants, 
 will not admit of their fpecious impofitions, and 
 therefore modern " Ifraelites indeed in ivhom there 
 " is much guilef have not found a refting place 
 for the fole of their foot, among us* 
 
 IT is mentioned as a fact the more extraordi- 
 nary, fince it is known, that neither climate, nor 
 feverity, nor ill treatment of any kind; nay, 
 continual peril of torture, and the moft mocking 
 executions, (to which they are often expofed in 
 catholic countries); prevent thofe wonderful peo- 
 ple from fettling wherever money is, in any way, 
 
 to be obtained by them. 
 
 % 
 
 AN elegant and humane apology, for thefe pe- 
 culiar people, has not long fince appeared, which 
 at leaft proved the benevolence of Mr. Cumber- 
 land's
 
 ( 47 ) 
 
 land's difpofition. And it is rather fingular he 
 mould have parted by, without noticing, the bard 
 ufe made of an extraordinary incident, on which 
 Shakefpear has founded his beautiful play of the 
 Merchant of Venice efpecially as it is not only fa- 
 vourable to the caufe he undertook, but enter- 
 taining in itfelf : particularly fo, in tracing the 
 great tranfpofition of character, and drcumftance 
 the poet wrought, to affect his audience in a way, 
 tho' entirely reconcilable to their eftablifhed pre- 
 judices, yet totally reverfing the matter of fact ! 
 It being a well authenticated ftory, and not by 
 any means commonly known, we hope we {hall not 
 trefpafs, by inferting a tranflation of this curious 
 paiTage wherewith we are favoured, (from Grego- 
 rio Letti vita di Sifto V) ; in the appendix. 
 
 THERE are at prefent, 33,400 tons of {hipping 
 which belong to this port ; the prime coft of which, 
 was 450,000!. The number of feamen, about 
 1,500. Five hundred whereof, it is computed, 
 fail at prefent, in the Eatt-India fervice, or from 
 other ports of this kingdom, on the different em- 
 ploys of navigation. 
 
 COAL, was antiently ufed in fmaller quantities 
 (when wood abounded) ; and formed an incon- 
 fiderable article of commerce, till the time of 
 Charles I. In this neighbourhood, where turf 
 
 O 
 
 was abundant, the vicinity of Newcaftle, and its 
 wonderful itores of pit-coal, then profitted little ! 
 In the abbey accounts of Whitby, Newcaftle coal 
 feeins rather to have been considered as a matter 
 
 of
 
 of luxury, than general ufe, lince the only entry 
 of conventual expences, for the years 1394 95 
 -96, in that article, is thus recorded: (Item, 
 pro i caldr. carbonum de una nayi novi caftri, 
 
 0:3: 4. Item de navi Johis Thorpe, pro 1 1 
 
 caldr. carbonum, 0:6: 8. Item de Barter 
 
 de Barton, pro 4 celdr. carbonum, o : 13 : 4.- 
 
 Item de una navi de Schels, pro 1 1 celdr. carbo- 
 num, 0:8: o. Item Wilmo Rede de Sun- 
 
 derland, 4 celdr. 0:13: o) Two chaldron of 
 
 coals from John Thorpe's fhip, 6s. 8d. From 
 
 Baxter of Barton, for 4 chaldron of coals, 135. 4d. 
 
 Two chaldron of coals from a Shield's mip, 
 
 8s. William Rede of Sunderland, for 4 chal- 
 dron of coals, 1 35. 4d. in all 1 2 chaldron of 
 coals, for the whole convent, to fupply its occa- 
 fions for that article, during three years ; which, 
 confidering the great hofpitality, and plentiful 
 feafts, on public days, given by the convent, 
 makes it evident, that their general fuel muft 
 have been wood and turf: And from the con- 
 ftrucHon of all the old built chimneys, the fame 
 may be inferred, refpecting this whole diftrich 
 In latter times, this article of trade has employed 
 many mips belonging to, or built in, this port ; 
 and affords one of the moft ufeful feminaries for 
 navigators, of any we have. The quantity now 
 brought, for the confumption of the town, and 
 its neighbourhood, is far from inconfiderable. 
 That imported in 1786, amounting to 8 coo chal- 
 drons, Winchefter meafure. 
 
 BUT from wliatever caufe the earlier popula- 
 tion of Scarbrough might have arifen, beiides 
 
 thofe
 
 ( 49 ) 
 
 thofe fpecified, it appears, this was a port, con- 
 fidered as an afylum for Ihips in diftrefs, at a 
 very remote date : Notice we find taken of it, 
 as a place of public utility, by the Parliament of 
 England, in the reign of Henry VIII. when an 
 acl pafled for laying a duty to repair the pier of 
 Scarbrough, then from age, and depredations of 
 the fea, become ruinous ; as may be more parti- 
 cularly feen, in our account of the prefent pier. 
 
 THE refort of company is a fource of material 
 circulation, and extends wider than may at firft 
 be thought probable. This, at times, fluctuates ; 
 but there is no manner of doubt, that the real 
 merit, and efficacy, of Scarbrough fpaw, and the 
 fituation, fo peculiarly healthy, fo fmgularly plea- 
 fant ; and its incomparable fine bathing fands, 
 will ever continue it, as the firfl in reputation, 
 among our Northern public places ! 
 
 THE found of induftry on its Strand, is muiic 
 to the ear of every true Briton ! The noife of 
 the caulking mallet, the axe, and the faw, pro- 
 claim the ufeful labours of the place ; and the 
 vifitors of diftindion, in purfuit of health, or the 
 amufements of a gay throng, cannot turn their 
 eyes any whither, without being entertained 
 by the delightfully buiy, and picturefque fcene 1 
 
 THE many {hops one fees, handfomely, and 
 richly ftored, are ftrong evidences that trade has 
 its relpectable, and ufeful votaries, in Scarbrough: 
 
 D and
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 and we may add, that real honor, and a liberal ? 
 principle in conducting bulinefs, is a characteriftic 
 of the commercial and trading part of this town; 
 among whom are many perfons, whofe integrity, 
 and particular benevolence to the dlftrefled, have 
 honourably diftirtguifhed every period of their 
 lives ! 
 
 THIS town give's the title of Earl of Scarbrough 
 to the family of Lumley of Lumley Caftle, in the 
 county of Durham. Richard was firft created a 
 Baron of this realm, in the year 1681, $id 
 Charles II. by the name of Lord Lumley of Lum- 
 ley Caftle. And in 1689, the firft year of Wil- 
 liam and Mary, was made Vifcount : In the next, 
 Earl of Scarbreugh, in the county of York, by 
 letters patent, dated April 15, 1690. He took 
 the Duke of Monmouth prifoner after the battle 
 of Sedgemore, with the Lord Gray, and a Ger- 
 man Count. He afterwards being Lieutenant- 
 Gcneral to King William, -and Captain of the ift 
 troop of horfe guards, attended his Majefty to 
 Flanders. Richard his fon, fucceeded him in ho- 
 nours and eftate; but had himfelf been called up 
 to the Houfe of Peers, in the life time of his fa- 
 ther, by King George I. as Baron, by the title of 
 Lord Lumley. He was one of the Lords of the 
 Bedchamber to King George II. when Prince of 
 Wales ; and after his acceflion to the throne, 
 made Mailer of the Horfe, Colonel of the 2d 
 regiment of foot guards, and Knight of the Gar- 
 ter. But r dying without iflue, the honour, and 
 
 eftate,
 
 ( 5' ) 
 
 eftate, came to his next brotfier, Sir Thomas 
 Lumley Saunderfon, K. B. who married Lady 
 Francis Hamilton, daughter of the late Earl of 
 Orkney He was fucceeded by his fon Richard, 
 the late Earl of Scarbrough, whofe fon, George 
 Auguftus, now does honour to that noble title. 
 
 RELIGIOUS HOUSES and CHURCH. 
 
 THERE were antiently two hofpitals, and 
 four monafteries, in Scarbrough ; of which 
 there are no veftiges worthy of attention, except 
 the parifh church of St. Mary ; fometime apper- 
 taining to a convent of white, or carmelite friars, 
 founded by King Edward II. and fupprefled in 
 the reign of Henry V. The remaining part of 
 this once very noble edifice, is here the fole 
 houfe of divine worfhip, according to the rites 
 of the church of England, for the reception of 
 near eleven thoufand inhabitants ! Before the re- 
 formation, we read' of its being adorned with 
 three fair towers; two at the Weft-end, and one 
 over the middle of the crofs-ifle. But the devaf- 
 tation which took place in thofe times of vio- 
 lence, and plunder, fucceeded by the conteft, 
 and cannon balls, of civil war, leave us very im- 
 perfect remains of its original grandeur. 
 
 D 2 THERE
 
 ( 5* ) 
 
 THERE is an infignificant ruin of a building, by 
 fome fuppofed a cell, in the! manor of Northftead, 
 now called Peafeholm, which belonged to this 
 convent. It confifts only of fome low and ruin- 
 ous walls, in a very flickered fpot, defended on 
 every fide by furrouridmg hillocks, near a mile 
 from Scarbrough, in a meadow, below Peafeholm 
 alehoufe. Tradition reports, that Northftead, 
 and Peafeholm, were referved by the friars, and 
 kept in their own hands, to fupply them with 
 butter, milk, poultry, and other articles of con- 
 venience for their tables. It is therefore, from 
 its fituation, not improbable, that the ruins now 
 vifible, may be rather thofe of fome fmall grange, 
 or farm, belonging to the convent, than of a re- 
 ligious edifice. 
 
 THE manor of Northftead, was after the re- 
 fumption of religious donations, leafed from the 
 Crown. Annexed to it, is a right of prefenta- 
 tion to the vicarage of St. Mary's in Scarbrough, 
 which together, are the property of Sir Charles 
 Thompfon, Bart. 
 
 THE celebrated Bafton, of Nottingham, was 
 one of the firft priors of this convent in Scar- 
 brough Edward II. took him along with him, 
 in his expedition againft Scotland, to record the 
 victories, and memorable tranfaftions, which he 
 expected to accomplifh, on that occafion. But 
 the King's injudicious proceedings, and the 
 bravery of the Scots, fo turned the fcale, that Ed- 
 ward,
 
 ( 53 ) 
 
 ward, terribly defeated at Bannocburn, loft both 
 his honor, his army, and his poet! Bafton, being 
 made prifoner by the Scots, was compelled to 
 iing the triumph of his benefactor's conquerors. 
 To defcribe the confufion of a tumultuous battle, 
 and render, in fome meafure, 
 
 <s The found i an echo to thefenfe" 
 
 He employed the following very fingular kind of 
 poetry : 
 
 Hie capit, hie rapit ; hie terit, hie ferit ; ecce dolores ; 
 Vox tonat, os fonat, hie luit, hie ruit, aro modo res ; 
 Hie fecat, hie necat, hie docet, hie nocet, ifte fugatur : 
 Hie latet, hie patet, hie premit, hie gemit, hie fuperatur ! 
 
 DURING the fiege of Scarbrough Caftle by Sir 
 John Mcldrum, a lodgment was made by fome 
 of his troops, in the then extenfive church of St. 
 Mary ; whofe lofty to\vcr, within a very fmall 
 diftance from the Caftle gate, enabled them 
 greatly to annoy the defenders : Befides which, 
 the Parliament forces, under cover of the night, 
 drew many pieces of artillery into the church, 
 and forming a mafked battery, at length opened 
 them upon the Caftle, through the church win- 
 dows ; thofe efpecially, which were in the Eaft 
 Hie, and choir. 
 
 SIR Hugh Cholmley, the brave and loyal go- 
 vernor, was of confequence, under a neceffity of 
 diflqdging them, and rendering a poft fo danger- 
 
 D 3 ous
 
 ( 54 ) 
 
 ous to him, untenable. This he efFe&ually per- 
 formed, by keeping up fo hot, and well-direded 
 a lire, as obliged the enemy foon to abandon it- 
 no lefs than threescore cannon mot in one day, 
 took place on the fteeple only, and the reft of the 
 Eail-end of the building, was beaten down, and 
 ruined. Another church, dedicated to St, Tho- 
 mas, whofe fite was near to where the coffee-houfe 
 now ftands, being converted into a magazine, or 
 fome other purpofe, efTentially ufeful to the affail- 
 ing army, it became requifite, that the befieged 
 fhould direct a fevere fire againft that fpot ; and 
 by fuch means, St. Thomas's church was entirely 
 demolished. 
 
 UNDER circumftances varioufly diilrefsful, the 
 inhabitants were obliged, after the Reftoration, 
 and when tranquility was again perfectly efla- 
 blifhed, to apply for ailiftance, in order to rebuild 
 the largeft, and leaft ruinous, of thefe facred edi- 
 fices. Accordingly, we find they petitioned for, 
 and obtained a brief, in the i 2th year of Cha. II. 
 the preamble of which ftates, and defcribes, the 
 fituation they were re4uced to, in the following 
 terms ; 
 
 " CHARLES II. by the grace of God, &c. 
 
 .7 
 
 " Whereas we are credibly informed, as well 
 " by the humble petition of the inhabitants of 
 " Scarbrough, in the North-Riding of our county 
 " of York, as alfo by a certificate, fubfcribed 
 
 with
 
 ( 55 ) 
 
 " with the hands of divers of our juftices of the 
 " peace for the faid Eaft, and North-Riding, in- 
 " habiting near unto the faid corporation ; That 
 " during the late wars, our {aid town of Scar- 
 " brough, was twice ftormed, and the faid inha- 
 " bitants difabled from following their ANTIENT 
 " TRADE; whereby they are much impoverifhed, 
 ** and almoft mined in their eftates ; and that 
 *' nothing might be wanting to make their con- 
 " dition moft deplorable, tbslr two very fair 
 * c churches were, by the violence of the cannon, 
 " beaten down; and that in one day, there were 
 " threefcore pieces of ordnance diicharged againft 
 " the fteeple of the upper church of St. Mary's, 
 " and the choir thereof, quite beaten down; and 
 " the fteeple thereof, fo fhak^n, that, notwith- 
 " ftanding the endeavours of the laid inhabitants 
 " to repair the fame, the fteeple 3 and bells, upon 
 " the loth day of October hft, fell, and brought 
 " dou-n uith it, moft part of the body of the 
 
 * ; fame church ; but the other church, being- 
 
 " called St. Thomas's, was by the violence of the 
 *' ordnance, quite ruined, and battered down ; 
 <; fo that the faid church called St. Mary's, muft 
 " be rebuilt ; or otherwife the faid inhabitants, 
 ie will remain deftitute of a place, wherein to af- 
 ** femble themfelves, for the public worlhip of 
 " God. And that the charges of rebuilding the 
 * ; church, called St. Mary's, will coit 2500!. 
 -" at theleaft; which, of themfelves, they are not 
 c: able to difburfe ; their fortunes being almoft 
 " ruined, by the calamities of the la-te wars, as 
 
 D 4 " afore-
 
 " aforefaid ; and therefore, the faid inhabitants, 
 " have humbly befought us, &c. &c." - 
 
 ENABLED by fuch brief, as well as other con- 
 tributions, the body of St. Mary's church, and 
 the tower at the Eaft end of it, were rebuilt in 
 the form we now obferve, on the foundations, 
 and ruins, of the former edifice, anno 1669.- 
 This, at prefent, ferves to receive a very numer- 
 ous congregation, every Sabbath day. 
 
 THE Rev. J. Kirk, M. A. is our prefent worthy 
 vicar, and the Rev. J. Hewetfon, his afliftant. 
 Which laft gentleman, having attentively per- 
 formed the chief of the fatiguing, and unremitted 
 duties of his function, here, near 20 years, feels 
 his profeffional merits, rewarded by the hearty 
 good-will of all his parifhioners, and the curacy 
 of Scarborough ! The civility of the inhabitants, 
 has always induced them to accommodateftrangers, 
 in the beft manner their iituation will admit of, 
 at church where for the benefit of the company, 
 during the fpawfeafon, divine fervice is perform- 
 ed every day at eleven o'clock In confequence 
 of which, a book lays at the rooms, for voluntary 
 iubicriptions, which are appropriated to the ufe 
 of the Reverend the Officiating Curate. 
 
 NEAR the ClifFTerrace,antiently ftood a church, 
 dedicated to St. Nicholas, of which there is not 
 now the fmalleft veftige remaining ; for the 
 mouldering texture of the hill on which it was 
 
 built,
 
 ( 57 ) 
 
 built, gradually fliding down, and crumbling in- 
 to the fea, has undermined and fubverted it, en- 
 tirely heavy rains, and fome frefli Hide, have 
 not unfrequently expofed human bones, flicking 
 out on the fide of the hill ; \vhich appears to be 
 Tapped by fprings, and io much in want of firm 
 rock, to fuftain its weight, that every kind of build- 
 ing on it, has been found to give way, and in time, 
 muft follow its predcceflbrs to the bottom ! 
 
 EXCLUSIVE of the church of St. Mary, there 
 are four other places of religious worfhip, built 
 for diffenters of various denominations : viz. 
 Prefbyterians, whole meeting place is in Sepulchre 
 flreet, where the Rev. Mr, Bottomlay officiates ; 
 Anabaptiits, in Weft-gate; Methoclifts meeting, in 
 Church-lane; and Quakers near the end of Satur- 
 day market; befides which, there is a Roman Ca- 
 tbolic meeting, in Apple market, 
 
 THE late Sir Dighy Legard, a gentleman of the 
 moft refpeclable, benevolent, and worthy charac- 
 ter ; perfectly efteemed when living, and fince 
 unaffectedly regretted ; remarked with concern 
 the prejudice to religious duty, and manifeft in-- 
 convenience, occafioned by having here, one only 
 church to attend; and that, inadequate to the 
 numerous inhabitants, as well as inconvenient for 
 thofe who frequented Scarbroughfpaw Hethere- 
 fore drew up a propofal for obviating this, by 
 building a competent Chapel, for the ufe of ajl 
 iuch as were diipoicd to promote ib worthy an 
 
 under*
 
 . < sM 
 
 undertaking, either among refident families, or 
 thofe who occafionally attend this place for their 
 health, or entertainment. But he, unfortunately 
 for the undertaking, and the community, died 
 before the neceflary fubfcription and arrangement 
 could be accomplished. And the delign was there- 
 fore laid afide. 
 
 IT appears by an authentic copy of the regifter 
 book, that in the year 1786, there were 193 
 baptifms ; 83 marriages; and 1 64 perfons inter- 
 red in Scarbrough church, and church-yard. 
 Among which laft, there were of perfons between 
 70 and 80 years of age, eleven ; between 80 and 
 90, fixteen ; between 90 and 100, five ; and one, 
 aged 105 years. 
 
 PERSONS now (1787) living in the parifli of 
 Scarbrough, who are known to be between 70 
 years of age and 80 are very numerous. Thofe 
 between the age of eighty^ and ONE HUNDRED 
 AND six, it is found, amount to very near ONE 
 
 HUNDRED !* .. 
 
 THE neighbouring parifhes of Seamer, Scalby, 
 and Hacknefs, neither of them remarkably popu- 
 lous, can alfo furnifh a numerous catalogue of 
 perfons, aged from eighty to ninety-fix, and one 
 
 of 
 
 * The better to eftablifh fo extraordinary a Faft, the name and 
 age of each perfon was to have been inferted ; but before the -ve- 
 ^nerabk lilt could be properly compleated, we were obliged to fend 
 this work to the prefs.
 
 ( 59 ) 
 
 of an hundred. This laft, Robert Humbles of 
 Harwood-Dale, is a robuft, and hale man ; in. 
 found health, and of confiderable bodily ftrength. 
 His faculties do not feem decayed, and his ap- 
 pearance is that of a perfon about 70. 
 
 BE it remembered that the two longeft-lived 
 men, of whom we have any certain account in 
 modern times, were both North country men. 
 Thomas Parr, who married, and had a child, when 
 1 20 years of age ; and lived till he was upwards 
 of 152. The other, Henry Jenkins, a Yorkfhire 
 fifherman, died 1670, and was buried at Swale, 
 in this county, aged 169. The firft of thefe, being 
 prefented to King Charles I, as a moft extraor- 
 dinary perfon rbut a little male-opportunely, 
 when his Majefty's difpofition had been foured 
 by fome perverfnefs and contradiction of the times ; 
 the King rather aufterely faid to him, "yeu have lived 
 longer than ctker men, izkat have you done more 
 than other JHMI?" Parr, with a quicknefs, not very 
 
 ufual at his years, bluntly replied j " / did 
 
 penance when I IL-OS an Hundred years eld/" He 
 was then nearly one hundred and fifty-two ! 
 
 R. 
 
 THOUGH the antiquity of the pier at Scar- 
 brough, cannot be exactly traced to its firft 
 building, we are well affured of its being of a 
 
 very
 
 ( 60 ) 
 
 very antient origin. In the 37th year of the 
 reign of Henry VIII. we find in the preamble of 
 an act of Parliament for vefting the repair of 
 Scarbrough pier, in the care of two perfons cho- 
 fen by the corporation ; * ^ " The great ad- 
 vantages fet forth, which this key, or pier, had in 
 former times afforded to mips, boats, and veflels, 
 in any adverfity, tempeii, or peril, on the North 
 coaft ; and that they have ever been accuftomed 
 to refort thither, for their fafe-guard, and afiu- 
 rance ; as well of men's lives, as of veflels, 
 goods, and merchandife. But that the faid key, 
 or pier, within the faid haven of Scarbrough, by 
 the flood and raging of the fea, infurging over 
 and upon it, h&dfreated and broken down, and 
 marveloufly worn away the faid key, or pier ; 
 . infomuch, that the haven was not, of late years, 
 fo frequented as formerly, to the great impover- 
 iihment of the inhabitants, &c." 
 
 \ 
 
 IN the 5th of George II. an aft was paffed for 
 
 enlarging the pier and harbour of Scarbrough, 
 estimating the coft of the fame at near 12000!. 
 and laying a duty of one halfpenny per chaldron, 
 for all coals loaden on board any Ihip, or other 
 vefiel, from Newcaftle, or any port or place be- 
 longing to Newcaftle, until the 24th of June 
 1763 ; together with fun dry other duties on 
 imports, and exports, and {hipping, payable in 
 Scarbrough. The receipts and difburfements to 
 be - examined by commiflioners, which were ap- 
 pointed from among the neighbouring gentle- 
 men. Thefe, to whom, by a fubfequent act, 
 
 continuing
 
 ( 6' ) 
 
 continuing the aforefaid duties, the bailiffs, for 
 the time being, are joined, meet as occaiion re- 
 quires, at Scarbrough, to examine the proceedings 
 and accounts, and give fuch farther directions 
 as may be neceffary, for accomplishing the 
 original defign, of improving the harbour; and 
 rendering it a fafe afylum for mips in diftrefs, 
 by means of an extenfive pier. 
 
 THE foundation of the pier, now carrying on, 
 
 is 60 feet in width ; at the bend, where 
 
 there is more ftrefs of water, 63 feet wide ; 
 
 the top 42 feet over ; height 40 feet ; 
 
 length of what is finifhed 600 feet. When car- 
 ried to the utmoft neceflary extent, the old pier 
 will be removed, to make more room in the 
 harbour, and the materials laid on the outfide of 
 the new pier, for its better defence againft the 
 exceffive violence of the tremendous winter feas. 
 
 OLD PIER. 
 
 THIS having been found inadequate to the 
 purpofes for which it was originally con- 
 firucted, is upon the completion of the new one, 
 to be entirely removed. Its length is 400 yards. 
 Near the farther extremity it meafures 14 yards 
 in breadth ; but in other places irregularly, from 
 
 10 to
 
 ( 62 ) 
 
 10 to 6. Its height within, is 10 yards ; on the 
 outfide, towards the fea, 1 3 yards. 
 
 FORMERLY there was a battery of guns on the 
 further end of the Old Mole, or Pier, to defend 
 the harbour, which was under the immediate com- 
 mand of the bailiffs, and not of the military. 
 Thefe guns, 8 in number, wefe rendered unfer- 
 viceable by ruft and age, and therefore removed. 
 In the late war a number of very fine new guns, 
 with proper ammunition, &c. were fent by go- 
 vernment to replace them. 
 
 A MOST whimiical fuperftitious rite is often 
 fecretly performed on the new Pier, (as it antiently 
 was, on the old one.) with a view to appeafe the 
 angry waves, and obtain a propitious breeze fa- 
 vourable to the voyager's fafe return. His fair 
 fpoufe, (or other anxious jfc;??^ friend,) proceeds, 
 unaccompanied, about 40 paces along the pier- 
 Here a frnall circular cavity among the ftones, 
 which compofe that huge mafs of rocky fragments, 
 receives a faline and tepid libation, which is pour- 
 ed into it, while the facrificer, muttering her ten- 
 dereft willies, looks towards that quarter, from 
 whence the object of her anxiety, is expected to 
 arrive. 
 
 ANTIQUARIANS, mythologifts, and fundry natu- 
 ralifts,have expreffed their difficulties in accounting 
 for this ceremony; yet they all allow it to proceed 
 from fome ob fair e and remote origin, if not ab- 
 
 fclute
 
 ( 63 ) 
 
 foliite heathen fuperftition. Simpler tradition 
 only records that it was firft performed by one 
 . ftradling, wife to a fifherman, who was 
 
 given up as loft in a ilorm ; but, ftrange to relate, 
 the libation was fcarcely cold, before the mifling 
 coble came in fight ! 
 
 MANY of the ftones wherewith this Pier is built, 
 weigh from 20 to 30 tons each ; they are con- 
 veyed on lighters from the quarry of White 
 Nabb ; an oppofite point to the South of the har- 
 bour, about 2 miles diftant. This quarry is a 
 great natural curiofity, and worth feeing. The 
 ftones in the ftrata of the quarry, are laid in a 
 furprifing manner with fuch exaclnefs, as if arti- 
 ficially depoiited by human means, in order to 
 the greater eafe in taking them up and applying 
 them. The machinery for lifting, and placing 
 thefe ftones when brought to the Pier, is fimple, 
 but of a curious contrivance, and entertaining to 
 obfcrvc. 
 
 SCARBROUGH CORPORATION. 
 
 THAT Scarbrough, hath long been a town of 
 confiderable note, appears, from its having 
 been chartered by King John, about the year 1 200; 
 who endowed it with many privileges, granting 
 
 to
 
 ( 64 ) 
 
 to it an interior government, by bailiffs, and 
 
 burgefles. 
 
 IN- this charter, mention is made of a former 
 one, accorded by King Henry, which this qne 
 granted by King John, is intended to confirm and 
 enlarge. 
 
 IN the reign of King Richard II. another, 
 and more extenfive charter, was granted to Scar- 
 brough ; confirming former ones, appointing the 
 town to be governed in future, by a mayor, one 
 fheriff, and twelve aldermen ; naming the confta- 
 ble of the caftle, as an officer of great authority, 
 and annexing the manor of Walfgrave, to the cor- 
 poration of Scarbrough. Full authority was like- 
 wife granted them, for hunting in the neighbour- 
 ing woods, and forefts ; the liberty of Pickering 
 Lyth, divifion of Rydall, of Northallerton, and 
 the foreft of Galtries ! 
 
 MOREOVER, the borough of Scarbrough, was 
 thenceforth to be deemed a county of itfelf, clif- 
 tincfc from the reft of Yorkihire ; providing alfo, 
 that the caftle, and certain adjacent lands, with 
 the manor, therein called Northftead, (fmce 
 Peafeholm) were to remain in the crown. 
 
 THE mayors, were alfo conftituted admirals of 
 fuch part of the fea coaft, as extended from the 
 mouth of the river Tees, on the North, to Oven- 
 fear, now called, Unemouth, Southward.
 
 OTHER, charters were accorded by Henry VIII. 
 Edward VI. Philip, and Mary; and the fame 
 confirmed by Queen Elizabeth, in two grants ; 
 one in the fecond, the other in the fortieth year 
 of her reign. 
 
 IT does not appear there are any authentic ac- 
 counts of the time, or the caufe, of that manifeft 
 change in the government of Scarbrough, which 
 now iubfifts. It being no longer ruled by a mayor, 
 flieriif, and twelve aldermen ; but by two bailiffs, 
 chofen annually ; a recorder ; town clerk ; and 
 forty-four common council. 
 
 THE laft account of any mayor prefiding over 
 Scarbrough, is given by Mr. Charleton, (hiftory 
 of Whitby), in the following narrative. 
 
 " KING James II. ufmg his utmoft endeavours 
 to reftore popery throughout his dominions, 
 caufed a declaration to be publiihed, on April 27, 
 1668, for liberty of conscience ; ordering the 
 fame, to be read in every protefrant church 
 in England : a copy of this, being fent to the 
 mayor of Scarbrough ; he ordered the minifter 
 to read the fame, publicly, at church, in the defk 
 or pulpit, on the following Sunday ; the con- 
 fcientious minifter, being no friend to popery, 
 refufed to obey his orders ; on which, the mayor 
 caned him in the reading defk, during the time 
 of divine fervice ; this behaviour being difliked 
 by fome of the congregation, (though probably 
 by none more than the divine himfelf,) was par- 
 
 K ticularly
 
 ticularly taken up by a captain in the army, who 
 was then at church. The officer took the liberty 
 next day, to fend for the mayor, to the old Bowl- 
 ing-green ; but the mayor taking no notice of 
 this mefTage, the captain fent a file of mufqueteers 
 to compel his attendance ; thefe having brought 
 him to the faid place, he was obliged to undergo 
 the rough difcipline of being tofs'd in a blanket. 
 Soon after which, the mayor fet out for London, 
 to obtain redrefs from the king, on which his 
 adverfary thought proper to leave Scarbrough, 
 and to abfcond; but the death of the mayor, 
 while on his journey ; and the abdication of the 
 king, foon after, delivered the officer from his 
 fears, and put an end to any further profecution. 
 King William fufFered the town no longer to be 
 governed by a" mayor, but by two bailiffs, elected 
 annually by the corporation ; and w r hich govern- 
 ment, it has ever firiee continued ; but whether 
 this gentleman was the firft, and only mayor in 
 that borough, or appointed on purpofe by King 
 James II. as a tool to affift in introducing po- 
 pery, is left to determine ; only, it feems that he 
 was a popular man ; fince fever.il of the company 
 prefent when that event happened, many years 
 after j fcrupled not to fay, Scarbrough had never 
 fince been better governed than when under the 
 faid mayor." 
 
 THUS far Mr. Charleton ; but we have fince 
 learned, in addition to Mr. Aiflaby's outrageous 
 behaviour, that having heard a certain refpectablc 
 gentlewoman of Scarbrough, had fpoken very 
 freely of the arbitrary proceedings then going on, 
 
 he
 
 ( 67 ) 
 
 he caufed her to be led through the flreets of the 
 town, with the bit of a horfe's bridle in her 
 mouth. And for this fcandalous infolence, to- 
 wards perfons, who from ftation, or fex, were 
 precluded from fuitably refenting their injuries, 
 the fpirited captain treated the mayor, as already 
 defcribed. 
 
 THIS extraordinary form of reprehending, and 
 degrading, by the ceremony of the blanket, was 
 publicly performed on Mr.Aiflaby, the laft mayor 
 of Scarbrough, the i2th of Auguft, 1668; by 
 captains Carvil, Fitzherbert, Hanmer, Rodney, 
 and Oufley, with their affiftants. 
 
 IT appears, from undoubted proofs, that before 
 the violent, and unlucky Mr. Aiflaby's mayoralty, 
 in the reign of Charles II. Scarbrough was govern- 
 ed by bailiffs ; and had been fo time immemorial.- 
 An infcription, now defaced, on the South fide of 
 the Toll-booth, of the market crofs, was fufficient 
 evidence of its government by bailiffs. 
 
 Conditores Triftram Fifh, et Johanres 
 Robinfon, bailives, anno dom. 1670. 
 
 ALSO, by the date on a ftone, over the door of 
 the bell-chamber of the church, as a memorandum 
 when the fteeple was rebuilt ; which had been 
 laid in luins, fmce the great rebellion. 
 
 " Francis Thompfon, 
 
 " Thomas Oliver, bailiffs." Anno dom. 1669. 
 
 BY thefe infcriptions, it appears beyond a doubt, 
 
 ihat the firft had been built by bailiffs of Scar- 
 
 E r brough.
 
 ( 63 ) 
 
 brough, 1 8 years, and the latter j 19 years, before 
 King James's abdication, and Mr. Aiflaby's 
 mayoralty. 
 
 IN a contested election, cf a reprefentative in 
 parliament, .for the borough of Scarbrough, in 
 the year 1736 (Lord Dupplin, againft Mr. Ofbal- 
 defton) the election by 44 burgeiTes, was then 
 proved cuftomary time out of mind ; and confe- 
 quentiy, long before the abdication of King 
 James. 
 
 TRADITIONAL report fays, that a considerable 
 debt having been incurred* at foine remote 
 period, by the corporation, and a fubfcription fet 
 on foot for railing the money, 44 of the burgefies 
 only, fubfcribed towards it; uponwhichagrantwas. 
 obtained for that number to be confidcred, and 
 continued, as authoritative ; and by whofe votes, 
 magiftrates fliould be chofen from their own num- 
 ber, and future reprefentatives in parliament, or 
 members of the common council houfe, ele&ed. 
 But for this report we can trace' no evidence of 
 any higher authority, 
 
 IN 1736, at the poll taken in the town's -hall, 
 Mr. Ofbaldefton had 24 votes, and Lord Dup- 
 plin had 1 8. But the bailiffs being returning 
 officers, and in the minority, polled the freemen 
 at large, and returned Lord Dupplin. Mr. 
 Ofbaldefton petitioned the houfe, who after ex- 
 amining the records, &c. Refolved 2ift of April, 
 1736, that the right of election is in the common 
 houfe , or common council of Scarbrough, con- 
 Ming
 
 lifting of two bailiffs, two coroners, four cham- 
 berlains, and thirty-fix burgeffes only. 
 
 The prefent MAGISTRATES are 
 
 Bailiffs. 
 
 Thomas Haggett, Efq; 
 
 William Parkin, Efq; 
 His Grace the Duke of Rutland, Recorder. 
 John .Hebb, Efq; Mafter in Chancery, Town Clerk. 
 
 Members of the comnwn hoafe, and therefore eke- 
 tors, both of magiftratcs and reprcj'eiitatives in parlia- 
 ment. 
 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 Mr. 
 
 JOHN TRAVIS, FATHER OF THE CORPORATION*. 
 
 James Goland 
 Thomas Hinder well, fen. 
 John Halley 
 Jofeph Huntrifs 
 Thomas Haggett 
 James Tindall 
 Thomas Hinder-well, jun. 
 John Garnett 
 Timothy Otbie 
 Ralph Parkin 
 John Robinfon 
 Richard Moorfom 
 Chriftopher Wilfon 
 William Williamfon 
 John Harrifon 
 William Clarkfon 
 William Pueibury 
 Leonard Abbott 
 Valentine Fowler 
 Richard Sollitt 
 William Parkin 
 John Coulfon 
 
 Mr. John Sleightholm 
 
 Mr. Richard Fox 
 
 Mr. Thomas Vickerman 
 
 Mr. Jeremi;h Wilkinfon, fen, 
 
 Mr. Thomas Fofter 
 
 Mr. John Parkin 
 
 Mr. Benjamin Fowler 
 
 Mr. John Maling 
 
 Mr. Anthony BelVick 
 
 Mr. William Hall 
 
 Mr. Jeremiah Wilkiafon, jar., 
 
 Mr. John Woodall 
 
 Mr. Thomas Stockdale 
 
 Mr. George Moorfom 
 
 Mr. Sedgfield Dale 
 
 Mr. James Cooper 
 
 Mr. George Hopper 
 
 Mr. William Herbert 
 
 Mr. John Richardibn 
 
 Mr. John Smith 
 
 Mr. Thomas PhiUJflcirk. 
 
 E 3
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 THE firft Engliffi Parliament was held in 1 1 16. 
 Scarbrough fent Members to Parliament in the 
 26th year of Edward I. A. D. 1298. 
 
 Members of Parliament for Scar&rough, from the year 
 1660, to the year 1707. From the reft oration to 
 the Union of England and Scotland. 
 
 ,, r Luke Robinfon, Efq. 
 
 <. John Legard, Efq. 
 
 .,, C Sir John Crofland 
 
 t William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 , - f Francis Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 t William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 i#i J *>79 The fame The fame 
 
 1680 The fame The fame 
 
 1681 The fame The fame 
 
 .._ f Sir Thomas Slingfby 
 
 1 William Qlbaldcfton, Efq. 
 
 , f William Harboard, Efq. 
 
 i Francis Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 . < William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 C Francis Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 , f Lord Irwin 
 
 I Sir Charles Hotham 
 
 1698 The fame The fame 
 
 f Sir Charles Hoth am 
 
 1 William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 s Hungerford, _.^. 
 
 - 1 William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 f Robert Squire, Efq. 
 
 <- William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 Members
 
 Parl". I. May 1707. 
 
 Members for Scarbrougb y fince the Union, of England 
 and Scotland. 
 
 Summoned 
 
 r Nov. 1707, died, and 
 
 Robert Squire, Efq; < fucceeded by J. Hun- 
 
 *~ gerfordj Efq. 
 William Thompfon, Efq. 
 John Hungerford, Efq. 
 John Hungerford, Efq. 
 William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 The fame The fame 
 
 The fame The fame 
 
 The fame The fame 
 
 Nov. I7IO. 
 I "Ij- 
 
 Afar. 1715. 
 May I7JJ. 
 
 John Hungerford, Efq. 
 Sir William Strickland, Bart. 
 7. fin. 1717. The fame The fame 
 
 T 1 730,J.Hungerford,Efq; 
 Vk'm. Thompfon, Efq. s died, and was fucceeded 
 C by W. Thompfon, Efq. 
 f, y*r 1734- William Thompfon, Efq. 
 
 Sir William Strickland, Bart. Died 1736 
 Tho. Vtfcount Dupplin, TA 
 Wm. Ofbaldeflon, Efq. I 
 9. ^iwI74I. William Thompfon, Efq. Died in 1744. 
 Wikiam OfoaWefton, Efq. 
 Edwin Lafcelles, Efq. Heeled in his room. 
 to. Aug. 1747- Edwin LafceHes, Efq. 
 Roger Handafyd, Efq 
 
 XI. May 1754. William Ofbaldefton, Efq. 
 Sir Ralph Milbank, Bart. 
 
 f Died in Sept 
 
 jj. May 1761. William Qftialdefton, Efq. ) acd n-as fucceed- 
 
 C ed by his brother 
 Fonntaync Wentwortji Ofb'aldeflon, Efq. 
 John Major, Efq. 
 
 Ij. Mar. 1768. F. W. Olbaldef^oa, Efq. ^ l p^ n ' ~ 
 
 _ _ r _. fDied J7-i Earl of 
 
 George Manners, Efq. < 
 
 H t TjTconnel 
 
 T4. 0^.1774. Earl of Tyrconnel 
 
 C Vacated his feat 1780, and 
 Sir Hugh Palliftr < was fucceeded 'by the 
 
 > Honourable XT. Phipps 
 jj. Scfl.ljZo. Earl of Tyrconnel 
 
 Hon. Charles Phipps, Captain in the : 
 $6. ^^.71784. Earl of Tyrconnel 
 
 George Ofbaldefton, Efq. 
 
 JE 4 SCARBROUGH 

 
 SCARBROUGH CASTLE. 
 
 WILLIAM le Gros, a military nobleman, 
 one of the ableft commanders for King 
 Stephen, at the battle of the Standard, an. 1135, 
 at Northallerton, obtained by his good conduct, 
 and his fliare in that victory, a high place in that 
 King's favour and efteem. Stephen added to the 
 titles of Earl of Albermarle and Holdernefs, which 
 he before held, that of Lord, or Earl of Yorkfhire; 
 a confiderable part of which county he pofieifed, 
 ami therein particularly the diftrict and town of 
 ScSbrough. 
 
 It did not require high military abilities, to di- 
 ftinguifh the very great natural ftrength, in point 
 of fituation, which the hill whereon the CaiHe 
 now ftands, afforded. Towards the town, and 
 bay which it commands, it is difficult of accefs, 
 by reafon of an exceeding fteep flope of great 
 height, and being only connected with the hill 
 above the old town by a narrow ridge, eaiily 
 cut through, which it always very coniiderably 
 overlooked. On every other fide it was inac- 
 cefiible ; Handing on a lofty perpendicular rock, 
 and warned by the fea. The area of this hill 
 contains about twenty acres of exceeding rich 
 pafture land, even now, and was formerly be- 
 lieved to have extended to many more ; within 
 
 the
 
 ( 73 ) 
 
 the plain of it, there is a moft excellent fpring 
 of fine water, never known during the dryeft 
 fummers to fail in its fupplies. 
 
 THE famous William of Bridlington, born 
 near this place,* and who fpent the chief of his 
 days in its neighbourhood, gives the following 
 account of what it was in his time, 1 197. " The 
 " rock," fays he, " on which the Caftle ftands, 
 " is of a flupendous height, and magnitude ; 
 " inaccefiible, by reafon of fteep craggs, almoit 
 " on every fide ; and {lands in the lea, which 
 < ; very near furrounds it. On the top, is a de- 
 " lightful graiiy plain, of about 30 acres, (though 
 " once accounted 60, or more) with a little foun- 
 " tain of frefh water, flowing from a rock. .In 
 " the narrow bit of land, or paiiage, which leads 
 " to the Weft, and to. which on that part it can- 
 " not be afcended without fome labour, is a 
 " {lately ediiice I Underneath it, the entrance of 
 *' the town begins, fpreading on both fides, to 
 f - the North and South, carrying its front to the 
 ;c Weft ; which is ftrengthened with a wall, but 
 " from the Eaft, fenced with a rock, where. the 
 " Caftle is erected, and on both fides of the -ia-d 
 " rock, by the fea I' 1 
 
 EARL William availed himfelf of this fituation, 
 furrounding the creft, or upper edge of the hill, 
 with an embattled v/alJ, and Defended the only 
 entrance, by a itroiig tower. 
 
 ABOT. T 
 
 '" Vt Xevvbrough,
 
 ( 74 ) 
 
 AIJOUT twenty years after the building of this 
 fortification, King Henry II. upon his coming to 
 the throne, gave orders for demolifliing all the 
 Caftles erected in King Stephen's time. Earl 
 William with abundant reluctance, and indeed 
 only by compulfion, could be brought to give up 
 a fortrefs, he fo well knew how to value, and 
 which he had already rendered, nearly impreg. 
 nable ! 
 
 HENRY, there is good grounds tofuppofe, con- 
 fidering Scarbrough Caftle, as being properly 
 iituated on the fea coaft, for a defence to the 
 nation ; inftead of deftroying, or razing this, as 
 he did moil others, abundantly encreafed its 
 ftrength ; commanding a greater, and more no- 
 ble Caftle, to b.e added thereto. 
 
 THE confequence in which this fortrefs wa$ 
 thereafter held, may be underftood by the high 
 rank of thofe who were appointed its fubfequent 
 Governors ; the charge of it being deemed a 
 mark of high favour and confidence ; a recom- 
 pence, as well as acknowledgment, for the moft 
 approved fidelity. 
 
 L ELAND, (of whofe accuracy, and truth, there 
 is no difpute,) in his Itinerary, performed at the 
 command of Henry VIII. relates that " in the 
 ^ enter ance to the firft court of this caftle, there 
 " were three towers in a row ; between each, 
 " was a draw-bridge, and an arch ; under which, 
 . with fome expence, the fea water might have 
 
 " been
 
 ( 75 ) 
 
 " been brought to flow. That, in the fecond 
 " fquare, \vas the Queen's Tower, with noble 
 " appartments ; not far from which, was a beau- 
 " tiful chapel ; and that King Richard III. creeled 
 " a bulwark, which is gone to ruin, through the 
 " rage of the ocean.'* From thcfc, as well as fub- 
 fequent accounts, it is evident, the lea has made 
 very confiderable incroachments, on the extent 
 of Scarbrough Caftle-hill, 
 
 
 
 TH F. prefent remains, to be traced of this for- 
 midable citadel, afford but a faint and imperfect 
 idea, of what its real ilrength has certainly been j 
 yet, when we duly weigh the great difparity of 
 powers, between the mifliles of antiquity, and 
 thofe now in ufe, it will be readily conceived by 
 any one, from what does appear, how capable it 
 muft have been, of defence, before the invention 
 of artillery. The remains of an exteniive ram- 
 part, ftill may be fecn, at the foot of its flopc 
 facing the town, and bay, a.nf\vering,in fome mea- 
 fure, to a modern glacis. It feems as if it had 
 been defended by fomething of a parapet, and 
 ftoccado ; which being commanded from the 
 caflle line wall, could not have been long tenable 
 by an enemy, though they fh,auld carry it by 
 affault, or furprize, 
 
 ON the fea fide, and to, the North Weft, na- 
 ture had done infinitely more for its fecurity, 
 than any art could either accomplifli, orfubvert. 
 To the South, a formidable outwork was carried 
 on, which well defended the flank of the Gallic - 
 
 gate,
 
 . ( 76 ) 
 
 9 
 
 gate, and \vas it felf alfo, commanded by every 
 part of the cafde near it. The outer gate, ac- 
 cording to all military architecture of the times, 
 was ftrong flanked with towers, and provided 
 with a portcullis, behind, and above which, (as 
 uiual in fuch military buildings) was a protected 
 opening, for throwing down ftones, boiling water, 
 melted lead, hot afhes, lime, &c. as well as darh., 
 and arrows, on the aflailants, when endeavouring 
 to ftorm the paflage, Behind this gate, and corps 
 de garde, is a very deep and perpendicular 
 trench, cut through the narrow neck which 
 joined from the land, to the Caftle-hill. In the 
 centre of this deep foflfe, ftill remains a high 
 tower, from which a draw-bridge communicates 
 with the gate Antiently, a wide fpace feparated 
 this tower from the caftie j and a communication 
 was made to the gate from within, (as Leland de- 
 fcribes) by two other towers, and draw-bridges. 
 If the enemy ihould carry even thefe, there yet 
 remained ftrong, and formidable works, to pro-* 
 tect the inner-gate, This, opened ^at the foot of 
 a very noble .and grand tower, of extraordinary 
 height, whofe walls arc twelve feet thick, in 
 folid mafonry ; and fo cemented, by excellent 
 
 lime mortar^ * that its ftones, are by far the 
 
 moft periftiable materials ! Protected, in every 
 fenfe, by this majeftic tower, or keep, were cir- 
 cumvallations, which contained moft of the habit- 
 able buildings, appertaining to the caftie. The 
 outer wall of one of thefe remains within which 
 a vaft well was funk; t>ut whether originally 
 
 leading 
 * Jn this country they, in general, make mortar without limt.
 
 ( 77 ) 
 
 leading to a refervoir, or a fpring, is not no\f 
 perfectly known. As ufiial, at every other an- 
 tient fortification, in every country, tradition 
 amufes the enquirer, with tales of an under 
 ground communication with the town and con- 
 fequent fables are related ; but the moft probable 
 conjecture, is, that Hoping drains, being carried 
 from the furface of the hill, whatever water fell in 
 rain, muft feed to it, and afforded at leaft a tem- 
 porary refourfe for its garrifon. It is aifo re 
 ported, that the heavy firing from the caftle batr 
 teries, in the laft liege, fhook the rock, fo as to 
 open fome pa-flages, by which its waters (whe- 
 ther from rain or fprin^s) found a vent, and 
 could no longer be retained; wherefore, the 
 numbers pent up within, were (fays the Legend) 
 fo diftreiTed, as obliged the governor to capitu- 
 late. The embattled line wall, which enclofed 
 the plain of this Cafrle-hill, ran along its out- 
 ward edge, as was before obfervcd, flanking the 
 town, and continuing on, towards the fea. This 
 was fufficiently ftrengthened, by many finall 
 projecting turrets, and from its fituation, in little 
 danger of a near attack However, among other 
 modes of annoying an enemy, mould they have 
 the hardinefs to approach, and climb the hill, 
 with a view to ftorrn and fcale this line of de- 
 fence, tradition, with a degree of credible proba- 
 bility, -"informs us, large fpars, malts, and bodies 
 of timber trees were fo lodged, that upon any 
 alarm by night or day, they could be let go, and 
 rolled down the fteep in front, necefTarily over- 
 whelming any body of men, wao fhould attempt 
 to advance by farprize.
 
 ( 78 ) 
 
 HENCE it may be feen, that where the fitua- 
 tion would not poffrbly admit of battering rams, 
 to place againft it ; or towers, built to overlook, 
 and command it ; nor yet an approach to be 
 made, but towards a well-fortified gateway, triply 
 fecurecl by towers, and draw -bridges, &c. hof- 
 tile attacks, without cannon, muft have been ever 
 tedious, if not fruitlefs, againft a well-provided 
 garrifon. For it mould be befides noticed, that 
 two other fupplies of water, than that which 
 failed during its lafl ficge, are recorded to have 
 ,exifted within the Caftle area. Dr. Wittie, who 
 for many years attended his patients at Scar- 
 brough, and who publifhed an early account of 
 our medicinal waters, in the year 1667, fpeaks of 
 what he muft himfelf have exactly known," A 
 <c fpring of water within half a yard of the end 
 <c of the rock, towards the fea. which in the moft 
 " droughty fummcrs, never wanted water, and 
 " was of fmgular ufe to Sir Hugh Cholmley, and 
 " garrifon, in the fiege." " Near unto which," 
 adds he, " there arc alfo cellars, under an old 
 " ruinated chapel, which after a great rain, be- 
 " come full of water, but are dried up in a long 
 " drought.'* 
 
 IN the reign of King Edward II. the Barons in 
 difcontent at the King's mifgoyernment, (chiefly 
 occafioned by the advice of Piers Gavefton, his 
 jFavourite) caufed him to banifh Gavefton out of 
 the kingdom ; but having foon after recalled, 
 and by his indulgence, fo animated him, that lu 
 infulted the nobles ; the Barons were fo pro- 
 voked,
 
 ( 79 ) 
 
 vokect, that they took up arms, to remove him 
 from the King's prefence ; and to that end, 
 marched towards Newcaftle, where they heard 
 he was, along with the King. Edward being in- 
 formed of their motions, took fhipping, and 
 came to Scarbrough ; where having placed Ga- 
 veilon in the Caftle, (the"n thought the ftrongeft 
 place in thefe parts) the King left him here, and 
 rode towards Warwick. The Lords hearing 
 this, haftciied thither with all fpeecl, and befieg- 
 ing the Caftle, caufed it to be furrendered ; to- 
 gether with Gavefton, who being their prifoner, 
 deiired only to be brought into the King's pre- 
 fence, and to be tried according to the laws, and 
 oiftoms of the realm. The King alfo required 
 the fame, promising to grant their requcfts, if 
 they would bring him to him ; which fome of 
 them cohfented to, and were conducting him ; 
 but the Earl of Warwick meeting them in the 
 way, took him fro'm his keepers, and beheaded 
 him on Gaveriley-Hcath, June 20, 1312. 
 
 IN the firft year of the reign of King Rich- 
 ard II. one Mercer, a Scotfman, with fome Scots, 
 French, and Spanifh fhips, entered the harbour 
 of Scarbrough, and carried away feveral vefiels, 
 in revenge for his father's imprifonment in this 
 caftle, where the Earl of Northumberland had 
 fent him, being taken by fome Northern mips. 
 Alderman Philpot, of London, hearing of thi>, 
 (which was not only a great lofs, and damage to 
 the townfmen, but a difgrace to the Englifh in 
 genera 1 ,) furnimed out a fleet of armed dips, ar
 
 ( 8 ) 
 
 his own charge, and himfelf purfuing them in 
 perfon, found them joined with 15 other Spanrfh, 
 ihips. He attacked them, and not only recovered 
 the Ihips taken from Scarbrough, but captured 
 all the Spanim mips in company, with great trea* 
 lure on board : but returning, inftead of being 
 rewarded for his fervices j he was impeached for 
 prcfuming to raife a navy, xvithout the advice and 
 confent, of the King, and council ; however, giv- 
 ing fuch good reafons for what he had done, he 
 not only came off with credit, but lived in great 
 dleem, and reputation, ever after. 
 
 MR. Camden fays, " that the memory of a 
 " much-deferving patriot may not perifh, the 
 *' fleet which John Philpot, citizen of London, fet 
 " forth, and manned, at his own private expence, 
 " gained a glorious victory, over a rabble of 
 " pyrates, who impeded all traffic ; taking their 
 * c captain, and 15 Spanim ihips; which worthy 
 " man, alfo maintained a thoufand foldiers, at 
 " his own expence, for the defence of the king- 
 " dom, againft the French ; who forely infefted 
 " the Southern coafts, in the beginning of the 
 " reign of King Richard It." 
 
 IN the reign of King Henry VIII. there was 
 a rebellion in the Northern parts, headed by one 
 Alke, and this caftle was befieged by him fix 
 weeks. Sir Ralph Evers, then governor of it, 
 though he had no other afliftance than his friends, 
 fervants, and tenants, except a few volunteers, 
 and was near half the time in fuch want of pro- 
 
 vifion?,
 
 ( 8i ) 
 
 villons, that they were forced to fuftain them- 
 felves with only bread and water ; yet he kept 
 the Caftle to the end of the Rebellion, and ho- 
 nourably delivered it up to the King. 
 
 IN the reign of Queen Mary, Thomas Stafford, 
 fon of Lord Stafford, with a fmall number of 
 men, took this Caftle by furprife, in a manner 
 that gave rife to a proverbial phrafe, ftill in com- 
 mon ufe in the neighbourhood ; " Scar- 
 
 brough warning, a word and a blow, but the 
 blow firft!" This unfortunate gentleman came 
 to Scarbrough, on a market day, attended, in a 
 manner not at all likely to create any fufpicion j 
 and, as if but to fatisfy curiofity, or amufe a va- 
 cant hour, he ftrolled about the Caftle. Under 
 the difguife of peafants, and countrymen, with 
 their market bafkets hanging on their arms, as 
 well as other unfufpicious appearances, about 30 
 men gained admittance within the Caftle-gate : 
 Thefe Mr. Stafford prefently followed, without 
 any feeming knowledge of them ; when, they 
 took their opportunity of coming up, at the 
 fame time, to the different centries, whom they 
 inftantly knocked down, and fecured, without 
 fpeaking a word. Then they.feized the gate, 
 and admitted the remaining difguifed folcu'ers, 
 who, under their outward garb of countrymen, 
 had concealed armour, and accoutrements. But 
 fhort was the dominion obtained, by this rapid 
 
 fuccefs of Mr. Stafford's ftratagem ! He held 
 
 it only two days, ere the Earl of Weihnor eland, 
 
 F attended
 
 attended by a formidable power, recovered it 
 without any lofs. He alfo took Mr. Stafford, 
 Captain Saunders, and three others ; who were 
 fent up to London, and imprifoned in the Tower 
 for fome time : They were afterwards brought 
 to trial, and all condemned ; Mr. Stafford was 
 beheaded, and three of his company hanged, 
 and quartered. This tranfa&ion happened on 
 the rebellion of Sir Thomas Wyat. 
 
 IN the feign of Queen Elifabeth, when the 
 troubles in Scotland brought on the fiege of 
 Edinburgh Caftle, Charles, then King of France, 
 in order to foment the differences between Queen 
 Elizabeth, and the Scots ; and to prevent her 
 from turning her arms againft himfelf, fent Monf. 
 Virac, with fhipping for that purpofe ; but, by a 
 ftorm at fea, Virac was driven into Scarbrough, 
 where he was apprehended, and fent to London ; 
 thus the French King's defign being difappointed 
 the war in Scotland ended. 
 
 SIEGE of SCARBROUGH CASTLE. 
 
 IN the year 1644, Sir John Meldrum, a Scotch 
 foldier of fortune, employed by the Parlia- 
 ment in the Grand Rebellion, took Scarbrough 
 by ftorm, and regularly invefted its Caftle. This 
 
 fortrefs
 
 ( 83 ) 
 
 fortrefs was then held for King Charles I. by the 
 gallant Sir Hugh Cholmley, Bart, who, in the 
 beginning of that Monarch's troubles, had fided 
 with fuch as endeavoured to check his more ar- 
 bitrary proceedings ; but perceiving the ten- 
 dency of their efforts, to be ultimately rebellious, 
 and fubverlive of the eftabliftied conftittition, her 
 left them with difdain, returned to his allegi- 
 ance, and wiped away all remembrance of his 
 former miftake, by the firmeft loyalty, and an 
 unftiaken courage, in a tedious fiege he here 
 fuflained. 
 
 OF the neighbouring gentlemen, and their 
 adherents, a confiderable number retired to 
 the Caftle, in order for fecurity to themfelves^ 
 or in aid to the garrifon. With memorable af- 
 fection, and noblenefs of fpirit, Lady Cholmley 
 chofe to remain in the Caftle, rather than defert 
 her hufband, Sir Hugh ; and ihared the hard- 
 ihips, as well as imminent perils of a formidable 
 fiege. Her benevolent care, and humane atten- 
 tion to the fick, and wounded, in the garrifon, 
 is gratefully recorded, and will be more parti- 
 cularly adverted to hereafter. 
 
 THE enemy, in full poflefTiOn of Scarbrough 
 town, and the whole country about it, would 
 naturally think of reducing a fortrefs fo ftrong, 
 and fo refolutely defended, by cutting off all its 
 fupplies ; as well as vigoroufly cannonading, and 
 battering its walls. Accordingly, they eftabliftied 
 
 F 2
 
 ( 84 ) 
 
 out-pofts, to prevent country people from bring- 
 ing fubfiftance, deftined for either the town, or 
 garrifon. The veftige of one of thefe, is ftill 
 confpicuous, 6n a hill near the road, and above 
 Peafeholm-Houfe, (which is idly fuppofed a bat- 
 tery from whence the Weil front of the Caftle 
 Tower had been knocked down). This, in reali- 
 ty, was the fpot where a party of men encamped, 
 to guard the road, and North fand-beach, and 
 reftrain fuch as might endeavour, by night, to 
 pafs along with provifion, for the diftrefled in- 
 habitants, or their friends in the Caftle. All the 
 roads were guarded, and no markets permitted 
 to be held in Scarbrough ; but on certain days, 
 leave was given, that one mould be held near 
 Peafeholm, (probably where the ruin of an an- 
 tient grange is now to be feen) whither the town 
 people might refort, under certain reftri&ions ; 
 for, each buyer, was obliged to produce an au- 
 thenticated ticket, iignifying, of how many the 
 family they purchafed for, confifted, and they, 
 were limited to a bare fubfiftance. 
 
 BATTERIES were raifed by the affoilants, and 
 vigoroufly plied from different fituations ; one 
 of the moft formidable among thefe, appear to 
 have been erected on a cliff, above the fpaw 
 houfe ; and remains of a very deftructive one, 
 at leaft dangeroufly contiguous, are to be feen 
 in a field, not far from the town wall. By the 
 line of direction, and clofenefs of approach, it 
 ihould feem, as if from hence, the Weft front of 
 
 the
 
 the Caftlc, as well as many other of its works, 
 had been beaten down, ,and laid in ruins but 
 the cavity behind it, report fays, ferved for a 
 battery of mortars (probably of (mall dimenfion, 
 or the diftance they were placed at, it is like, 
 would have been much greater. "We read of 
 " flat jhdis" thrown about this period, at the 
 fiege of Hull ; which fell fhort, and proved in- 
 effectual). If this were in facl: a mortar battery, 
 it is natural to fuppofe, the Ihells were either 
 fmall, or their form, fuch as would not permit 
 being thrown from a diftance. In Leicefter, 
 there are, or were within thefe few years, fome 
 fiiells, faid to have been conftrufted in the reigii 
 of Richard III. which were made of earthen 
 ware. In the armoury at Lucca, in Italy, are 
 many hand granadoes, made of glafs, very thick, 
 and as fame fays, exceeding mifchievous. Shells 
 now in ufe, (and not the largeft among them) 
 frequently range three miles, from the fpojt 
 whence they are thrown ! 
 
 MANY cannon mot were found, in digging 
 near the town, as well as about the Cattle, weigh- 
 ing 36 pounds and anantient woman, not very 
 many years lince dead, ufed to relate her alarm 
 at hearing the great mot whiz over. her head, dur- 
 ing the fiege, while (he was milking her cow, in 
 an adjacent field. In the parifli regifters, mention 
 is made of divers perfons, flam by chance can- 
 non mot, while the firing was continued againft, 
 or in defence of the Caftle. 
 
 F 4 Two
 
 , ( 86 ) 
 
 Two remarkably providential efcapes from de- 
 
 ftruction, were experienced by two of the fair 
 
 fex ; the one during this fiege ; and the other, 
 
 from a fhip's gun, in the harbour. The firft, 
 
 having continued her needle-work till day light 
 
 began to fail her, found it difficult threading her 
 
 needle at the Eaft window, where me had fat, 
 
 and went to a Weft one, that fhe might the more 
 
 eafily fee to accomplilh it. At that moment, a 
 
 glancing mot, which had been fired from the 
 
 garrifon, at the enemy in St, Mary's church, 
 
 came in at the window fhe had juft quitted, and 
 
 tore every thing in its way to atoms; but without 
 
 the fmalleft detriment to the good woman, thus 
 
 fortunate by her induftrious application. The 
 
 other, while fpinning in an upper room at the 
 
 Old Globe Inn, chanced to drop her fpindle ; 
 
 and as me flooped to pick it up, a cannon ball 
 
 paffed directly over her, ftriking the diftaff to 
 
 pieces, which ftood in the very place her head 
 
 muft have occupied, had flie not at that moment 
 
 been ftooping down to the ground, 
 
 AN exact journal of the fiege, we are informed, 
 had been kept by Sir Hugh Cholmley, in his own 
 hand writing, and was in the poffeflion of N. 
 Cholmley, efq; who with a view to gratify the 
 curious public, anno 1751, took it with him to 
 London, in order to its being fent to the prefs 
 but having arrived at his inn, the fame night a 
 great fire broke c.ut therein ; thefe papers, with 
 many other things of value, were entirely con- 
 fumed
 
 fumed. What anecdotes we have been enabled 
 to offer the reader, with any apparent authenti- 
 city, we have produced, or fhall fubmit to his 
 infpe&ion, in courfe of thefe fheets, trufting, 
 that having done our utmoit to collect every ma- 
 terial for his entertainment, and information, 
 he will make candid allowance for the difficulty 
 in obtaining documents of any weight, and take 
 in good part the beft fruits of our inveftigation. 
 
 WE have, when relating the circumftances 
 xvhich occafioned the definition of St. Thomas's, 
 and nearly the ruin of St. Mary's church, already 
 alluded to the refolute manner in whfch both 
 the attack, and defence, were carried on. And 
 though of either cavalliers, or batteries, where- 
 on the garrifon guns were mounted, there does 
 not appear the leaft veftige, yet we learn from 
 tradition, as well as from confidering the effects 
 of them, that their train of artillery,* was far 
 
 F 4 from 
 
 * Sir John Hotham and his fon made an attempt to fire 
 Scarbrotigh, and its Cattle. To accomplifh which, they fent 
 two (hips thither, with armed foldiers, provided with ten pieces 
 of cannon and other ammunition. 
 
 Sir Hugh Cholmley having private intelligence thereof, came 
 down by night, and coniulting with the magiftrates, fullered the 
 veflels to enter the port peaceably : which they no Iboner had 
 done, but Sir Hugh with his affiftants feized them, arming them- 
 felves with what was prepared againft the inhabitants, who 
 planted the cannon to fecure themfelves againft the invafion of 
 Capt, Hotham and bis forcds. Thefe not long after came, ex- 
 pecting
 
 ( 88 ) 
 
 from inconfiderable ; and their fupply of amuni-. 
 tion, competently plentiful. On the South Weft 
 out-work, which defended the right flank of the 
 gate, without the draw-bridge, it is related, 
 {even guns were mounted ; and the command of 
 that port, afligned to a Captain Buihell ; who 
 having no experienced artillerifts to fight the 
 guns, was conftrained to man them, with fuch 
 volunteers as would turn out for that fervice. 
 One of thofe pieces of artillery, unhappily burfted, 
 and killed 7 men, it fo intimidated the unprac- 
 ticed, and we may add, undifciplined garrifon, 
 however ftrange to tell (and it was related 
 
 by 
 
 peeling nothing but fuccefs ; b,ut when approached within fhot, 
 the artillery and muikets were difcharged, killing 20 of them, 
 and the reft being thereon furioufly attacked, 30 more were 
 taken prilbners, and the remainder put to flight. 
 
 The Queen (Henrietta) foon after landing at Bridlington-Key, 
 Sir Hugh Cholmley waited on her Majefty, and delivered up the 
 keys of Scarbrough Cattle for the King's ufe; but was gracioufly 
 reinftated in his office of Governor. 
 
 The Queen, who ftaid near a fortnight at Bridlington, was 
 near looting her life by two of the Parliament (hips, which un- 
 perceived, in the night time, had entered the bar, firing upon 
 the town ; two of their ihot flruck the houfe, piercing it even 
 to the bottom, And her Majefty being forced to take fhelter 
 in a neighbouring ditch, as {he changed her uncomfortable fitu- 
 ation, in fearch of a more csmmodioqs place, the bullets flew 
 fo very thick, that a ferjeant was fiain near her perfon, and ihe 
 here would have probably ended her days, had not the return 
 of the tide, and the threats of Van Trompe the Dutch Admiral, 
 who brought, her Majefty over, obliged them to dcfift.
 
 by one who fawthe original journal) eleven weeks 
 elapfed, before they could be again brought to 
 attend to the great guns ! 
 
 In the fecond fiege of Gibraltar i 1/26, "twenty 
 nine of our mortars, and feventy-four guns burft, 
 killing and wounding more men by thofe explo- 
 fions, than the enemy did by all their mot, and 
 {hells ! Yet, there was no abatement of vigour 
 and alacrity in the garrifon, who fought the re- 
 maining guns with great Ipirit, and therewith 
 deftroyed ieveral thoufand of the beiiegers." 
 
 AFTER various fucceffes on either fide, and a 
 Jong continuance of the iiege, whereby moft of 
 the garrifon's works were ruined, Sir John 
 Meldrum, fent a haughty fummons to Sir Hugh 
 Cholmley, requiring his furrender, and menacing 
 him with all the tremendous, and indeed, favage 
 confequences of his taking the place by florm. 
 This Sir Hugh rejected, with the molt undaunted 
 refolution ; and immediately two aflaults took 
 place, one at the gate, or entering port ; and 
 another, at the farlheft extremity of the line 
 wall, towards the fca, where ftood a confiderablej 
 work, taken down in the year, 1730, and known 
 by the name of Charles's Tower. So ruined 
 were all the ftrong defences of the gateway, by 
 being continually battered, for many months, 
 that the beiiegers found means to penetrate as 
 far as the inner gate, at the foot of the grand 
 
 tower,
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 tower, or keep ; but here they were fo annoyed 
 with mowers of ftones, and other mifliles, as to 
 be thereby compelled to retreat, and abandon 
 the ruined works, they had fo refolutely carried. 
 
 No lefs formidably fpirited, was the aflailants 
 clofe attack, at the foot of Charles's Tower. 
 They furmounted every obftacle, climbed the 
 fteep precipice, while the defenders attention was 
 fo powerfully called towards the Caftle gate ; and 
 . in the confident hope of fuccefs, Sir John Mel- 
 drum himfelf, led them to the charge but fuch 
 was the difadvantage of their ground, and fuch 
 the bravery of the defenders within, that the 
 fevere conteft, here alfo, ended favourably for the 
 garrifori; and, the commander in chief of the 
 aflailants, Sir John Meldrum, was (lain, or mor- 
 tally wounded, by a large ftone. 
 
 THOUGH this account may be depended on ; 
 by fome miftake, Bimop Kennet relates, Sir John 
 received his death's wound at Alisford, in Hamp- 
 {hire 5 by a no lefs error, Mr. Granger, in his bio- 
 graphy, after obferving Sir John was a Scotfman, 
 and a very active, as well as fuccefsful, general 
 for the parliament ; he adds, " but the moft fignal 
 <c cf his a&iom, was the taking the town, and caftle of 
 < e Scarbrough." 
 
 THE town he certainly took; but the caftle 
 was furrendered to Sir Matthew Boynton, after 
 moft vigorous fiege, carried on for the fpace of 
 
 thirteen
 
 ( 9' ) 
 
 thirteen months, by a formidable, and well fup- 
 plied army, againft, for the moft part, irregulars, 
 and a promifcuous affemblage of country people. 
 The immediate caufe of the furrender, is vari- 
 oufly reported a want of water from the failure 
 of the great well, in the Caftle-yard, (already 
 fpecified) is among other things, aflerted again, 
 fome relate, that a party of the enemy were 
 treacheroufly admitted, being fuffered by the 
 traitors to climb the rock, and fcale the wall, on 
 the North Weft fide ; and, though thefe were de- 
 feated, the appearance of fuch treachery, and 
 mutinous defigns, among his garrifon, convinced 
 Sir Hugh, it was in vain to keep the caitle 
 gates Ihut, if his men were determined no longer 
 -to defend its walls. Befides which, the exhaufted 
 ftate of his military ftores ; many perfons killed 
 and wounded ; fcurvy, and other ficknefs, break- 
 ing out among his remaining forces ; now worn 
 down with incefiant fatigue, and hardfhip ; and, 
 the hopelefs fituation they were all in, refpecting 
 relief, confpired with the demoliihed ftate of his 
 fortifications, to induce him to furrender, after 
 a liege of fomething more than 12 months, anco 
 1645. 
 
 Ix Heath's Chronicle, for the year 1645, it is 
 mentioned, that " the town and caftle of Scar- 
 brough, fo gallantly defended, a long time, 
 againft enemies, by feveral commanders, and 
 lately againft Sir John Meldrum, the Scot, 
 who left his bones under its walls, was after, 
 
 more
 
 ( 9* ) 
 
 more vigouroufly befieged by Sir Matthew Boyn- 
 ton, to whom, after a tedious beleaguring, the 
 garrifon, worn out by ficknefs, and many flain, 
 and without hopes of relief, the valiant and loyal 
 commander, Sir Hugh Cholmley, delivered it up 
 after a long treaty, and upon honourable condi- 
 tions ; moft part of the North being poflefied by 
 the Scots, and Parliament forces," 
 
 Some account of Sir HUGH CHOLMLEY, Bart. 
 
 Abftra3ed from a manufcript in his own hand-writing. * 
 
 " IN the year 1624, Sir Hugh Cholmley was 
 " chofen a burgefs in Parliament for Scarbrough, 
 " in the laft year of King James. 
 
 " IN 1624, the firft year of King Charles, he 
 <c was again chofen for the fame place : And in 
 " 1640, chofen burgefs in Parliament for Scar- 
 cc brough again. In 1642, he was named one of 
 <c the commiffioners from the Parliament, to the 
 " King, then at York; under a pretence, to give 
 ** the King, and country, a right underftanding, 
 " of the fincerity of the Parliament's tranfac- 
 
 " tions : But, when he received the inftruc- 
 
 " tions from Pym 9 who had orders to give them, 
 *' they were plainly enjoined to draw the train- 
 bands 
 
 * For this curious and valuable remain, we are indebted to the 
 moft obliging condefcenfion of Nathaniel Choitnley, Efq; by whofc 
 favour we are enabled to prefent it to the public.
 
 " bands together ; and that, to oppofe the King 
 " in all things, was for the Parliament's fervice. 
 " This he refufed to accept, faying, /'/ was to 
 " begin the war, which he intended not. Where- 
 " upon, Pyrn bid him draw the inftruclkms to 
 " his own mind, which he did j but the Lord 
 " Fairfax and him, departing in a coach, before 
 " they could be fmifhed, they were brought to 
 " them by one of the commiflioners ; and tho* 
 " not fo large as the iirft, yet other wife than he 
 " did affent to, or could approve of. 
 
 " WHEN they came to York, there were few 
 " about the King but foldiers of fortune, or, 
 " fuch as were no friends to the public peace ; 
 " and there he difcovered, there was a party 
 " with the King, who held intelligence with an- 
 " other prevalent one, in Parliament ; both 
 " which, fo well concurred in fomenting diftrac- 
 " tions, that, whenever the King offered 1 aught 
 " that was reafonable, the party in Parliament, 
 " caufed it to be rejected ; and when the Parlia- 
 " rnent did feem to comply to the King, their 
 " party with him, made it difliked; which gave 
 " much trouble to Sir Hugh. And whilft they 
 " were at York, the Lord Keeper Littleton, and 
 " divers others of the Lord*s Houfe ; as alfo of 
 " the Houfe of Commons, ftole privately away, 
 and came to the King; whofe condition they 
 thought profpering; but Sir Hugh's opinion 
 was, they had miflcad both the King, and the 
 nation, by quitting the Parliament, as he told 
 
 " many 
 
 "
 
 ( 94 ) 
 
 "-many of them. There was fent to the com- 
 " miffioners, a paper of 19 proportions, from 
 " the Parliament, to his Majefty ; moft unjuft, 
 " and unreafonable, as ever he thought was made 
 " to a King. When they were to have pre- 
 " fented them, it fell to his turn to have read 
 " them ; but he would not, as he thought them 
 " unjuft, and unreafonable to be offered to the 
 " King, and io put Sir Richard Stapylton to 
 " read. He carried back the King's anfwer to 
 " thefe proportions ; and about a month after, 
 " when the Earl of Holland was fent to his Ma- 
 *' jefty, (then at Beverley,) Sir Hugh was noini- 
 " nated a commiffioner with him ; but diiliking 
 " the commiffiori, he got freed, and Sir John 
 " Hotham, put in his place. 
 
 " ABOUT the latter end of Auguft, he was de- 
 " fired by the Earl of Eflex, and fome others, 
 " to go into Yorklhire ; and to draw out his 
 " regiment, for fecuring Scarbrough ; which at 
 " firft he refufed, but after being much impor- 
 " tuned, conceiving thefe preparations of war, 
 " would end in a treaty, and that himfelf, who 
 ** defired nothing but that the King might enjoy his 
 " juft righty as well as the fubjecl theirs ; and that 
 " he fhould, in this matter, be a more indifferent 
 " arbitrator, than many he faw take arms ; and 
 *' more confiderable, with the fword in his hand ; 
 " and in a better capacity to advance a treaty, 
 " than by fitting in the Houfe of Commons, 
 " where he had but a bare vote ; he accepted the 
 
 " employ-
 
 ( 95 ) 
 
 " employment, though hazardous at that time* 
 " as many gentlemen in Yorkshire, declaring for 
 " the King, were already in arms. He had for 
 " his better fecurity, a troop of horfe from 
 " London ; and 200 men promifed him from 
 " Hull -, which never came ; and fo, with the 
 " horfe, how he deported himfelf in this employ- 
 " ment, and when, and for what caufes, he 
 " quitted the Parliament, he refers the reader to 
 " an account he has given both of that, and the 
 " fiege of Scarbrough. Together in which, it 
 " will appear, he did not forfake the Parliament, 
 " till they did fail in performing thofe particulars 
 " they made a ground of the war, when he was 
 " engaged : viz. the prefervation of religion, pro- 
 ** teflion of the king's perfon, and liberty of the fub- 
 "-jetf ; nor did he quit them for any particular 
 " end of his own, but meerly to perform the 
 duty, and allegiance, he owed to his fove- 
 reign ; and which he did, in fuch a way, as 
 '* was without any diminution to his honour, 
 " either as a gentleman, or a foldier. His wife, 
 " was in London when he declared for the King ; 
 " and they, being nettled that they had loft a 
 " perfon fo ufeful to them, as he had been, did 
 " not only pafs fame fharp votes in the Houfe 
 " of Commons, againft his perfon ; but plun- 
 " dered his wife of her coach horfes, and uied 
 " her coarfely. She. not uruierftanding the 
 " caufes why he quitted the Parliament, or the 
 " true ftate, of the difference between the King, 
 " and Parliament - t was very earneft for their 
 
 * ; party. 
 
 c;
 
 *' 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " party. But after Sir Hugh had unvailed to her 
 " the Parliament's intents, and clearly repre- 
 " fented to her their proceedings, and the ftate 
 " of affairs j flie then was as much againft them 
 " and earneft for the King ; and continued fo to 
 " her death. She came down by fea, to Whitbyj 
 " and after fhe had been down three days there, 
 Sir Hugh brought her to Scarbrough, where 
 he was then governor for his Majefty, by a 
 commiflion from the Marquis of Newcaftle, 
 general for the King, in the North parts ; and 
 was governor both of the town, and caftle. 
 " He had likewife a commiffion for being a 
 " colonel of horfe ; and another to be colonel of 
 " dragoons ; andhadalfo a commiflion, to order 
 " and judge of all marine affairs, within all the 
 " ports from the Tees, to Bridlington, that fell 
 " within that extent. He lived at Scarbrough in 
 " a very handfome port and faihion ; but upon 
 " fuch an account, as he thought not many in 
 employment for the King, and Parliament, 
 did the like ; for he had neither pay, nor al- 
 lowance, but maintained the poft of the gover- 
 nor's place, upon his own purfe ; not having 
 " the worth of a chicken, out of the country, he 
 " did not pay for, till the time was come to be 
 befieged. 
 
 " 
 
 < 
 
 " 
 
 " AT the fiege of Hull, the Marquis of New- 
 " caftle required his prefence, and would have 
 " needs impofed upon him the command of a 
 " brigade of horfe, (which was the curfe of the 
 
 " army;)
 
 ( 97 ) 
 
 " army ;) and whither he carried him his own 
 " regiment of horfe, being the beft in the army, 
 " confifling of 350 men railed at his own charge ; 
 ct and drew 400 foot out of his garrifon, anno 
 " dom. 1644. After the battle of Hefle-moor, 
 * the Marquis of Newcaftle, came to Scarbrough, 
 " and lodged at his honfe two days, till he had 
 " furnifhed him with a fhip to go beyond fea ; 
 " at his departure, he thanked him for his en- 
 " tertainfnent, and told him, he had fear'd he 
 " fhould have ftopped him ; faid he gave all for 
 " loft on the King's fide ; and wifhed his depar- 
 " ture with him, which (he fuppofed) he con- 
 Ci ceived, would be fome countenance. To this, 
 " Sir Hugh's anfwer was, that he would wifh him 
 " to flay ; that if he had committed an error, he 
 44 knew his duty fo Well, he was not to call him 
 " to account, but obey him, being his general. 
 44 That for his own part, though the place was in 
 " no defeniiblc pofture, he meant not to render, 
 " till he heard from the King, or was forced to 
 " it. And after the Marquis of Newcafde's de- 
 " parture, moil of the gentlemen of the country 
 " which came thither with him, procured 
 " pafies to go home, or go to Prince Rupert, 
 <; then in WeflmoreLmd j which gave fuch 
 " difcouragement to the foot foldiers, as ma- 
 " ny of them rin away ; and indeed he was 
 ' ; in a very bad condition ; for as the town, 
 <; by fituation, was not tenable ; the Caftle was 
 " almoft without habitations, or provifion, or 
 ;i much ammunition. And Sir Thomas Fairfax 
 
 G was
 
 ( 98 ) 
 
 " was come with i ooo horfe within 5 miles of the 
 " place, whereof he had intelligence, and that the 
 " foot was to follow from York, where the forces 
 " were under the command of Mancbefter^ who 
 " had no other employment for them at that time. 
 
 * e SIR Hugh was not in a condition to with- 
 " ftand this ftorm ; nor knew how to relift, but 
 " by propounding proportions for rendering ; 
 " which he did by Mr. Henry Dorley, a prifoner 
 " with him, who was a commifikmer from the 
 " Parliament, to the Scots, he had fetched out 
 " of their army, during the fiege of York. He 
 " did not perfectly underftand how matters 
 " paffed between the armies^ and being defirous 
 " of liberty, undertook thofe propofitions, and 
 " to obtain ceffation for 20 days, whilft they were 
 " fent to the Parliament. The man being partly 
 " overjoyed with liberty, partly over-reached in 
 " his employment, gave them at York, fuch af- 
 " fiirance of the rendering, that Manchester and 
 " his army, marched to the South ; and the 
 " Scots, to befiege Newcastle. Lord Fairfax and 
 " his forces, fat dov/n befofe Helmiley caftle ; fo 
 " that, before the 20 days expired, Sir Hugh 
 " had put the town, and caftle, in a much better 
 " poftuf^e of defence ; and had got into it 400 
 " loads of corn, cut from the fields: he there- 
 " fore was out of fear, at the prefent, to be be- 
 * fieged- 'Dorley being returned from London, 
 14 with the anfwers to the propofals ; the Lord 
 " Fairfax lent them to him, requiring his anfwer. 
 " Indeed there was as much granted to himfelf, 
 
 as
 
 ( 99 ) 
 
 " he could expert ; yet not fo much as propofed 
 " by the proportions ; of which, fome being of 
 " that nature, he was allured would not be af- 
 " fented to ; and thereby he had occafion to 
 " break the tre~aty, being out of fear of being 
 " befieged at the prefent; though it had been 
 " impofiible for him to have held out, which he 
 " now did for about 1 2 months. At the begin- 
 " ning of February following, the fiege began, of 
 " Scarbrough town ; he fent into Holland, two 
 " of his children ; but Lady Cholmley would not 
 " forfake him , but determined on facing all danger ', me 
 " continued with him the 12 months, during the 
 " fiege of the town and caftle. She endured much 
 " hardfhip, yet with little mew of trouble ; and in 
 " the greatefl danger, would never be daunted, 
 " but mewed a courage above her fex ; and 
 " whilft they were befieged in the caftle, me did 
 " not omit to vifit the fick perfons, and to take 
 " extraordinary care of them ; making fuch help 
 " and provifions as the place would afford; info- 
 " much as her maids were fo overwrought, and 
 " toiled with it, as one of them in the night, 
 " ftole away, thinking to get into the town ; but 
 " the enemy's guards, taking her for a fpy, 
 " caufed her to return, which was acceptable to 
 " his lady ; there not being fufficient perfons in 
 " health, to attend the fick. At the furrender of 
 " the caftle, me procured an article, that the 
 " garrifon, at his houfe at Whitby, might be 
 " removed ; and me have the liberty to live in 
 " it ; but the captain, in pofleffion, liked the place 
 " fo well, he would not quit it, until one of his 
 G 2 " fervants
 
 " fervants died of the plague ; and before he 
 " durft return again, fhe unexpectedly (leaving 
 " her two daughters behind her, at one Mr. 
 * e Pearcy Hay's, near Malton) adventured over 
 " the moors, in a dangerous feafon, they being 
 " then covered with a thick fnow ; and fo got 
 " to the houfe, and kept poffeffion, though in a 
 " fad condition. 
 
 " HER two fons, were beyond fea; and her 
 " girls, me durft not bring thither, in reipecl: of 
 " the late illnefs. She was ill accommodated 
 " with all things ; the houfe being plundered, 
 "having nothing but what me borrowed, yet 
 *' her fpirit would not fubmit her to complain : 
 " And when Sir John Meldrum had fent propo- 
 " fitions to Sir Hugh, with menaces, that if they 
 " were not accepted, he would that night be 
 " mailer of all the works, and Caflle ; and in 
 ct cafe one of his men's blood was ihed, would 
 " not give quarter to man, or woman, but put all 
 " to the fword. Lady Cholmley conceiving Sir 
 " Hugh' would more relent therein, inrefpectof 
 " her being there, came to him, without any direc- 
 " tion or trouble, and prayed him, that he would 
 i 4 not for any conlideration of her, do aught 
 e which might be prejudicial to his own honor, 
 " or the King's affairs. By the article of render, 
 " they had liberty to march to the King, or of 
 " paffes to go beyond fea; and hearing the King 
 " was then removed into Wales, at Royland ; 
 " and Sir Hugh neither in bodily health, nor 
 *-' having force to ferve him j that he would, in 
 
 all
 
 " all likelihood, have died in the way, had he 
 " attempted to pafs to the King. He took a 
 " Ihip at Bridlington, for Holland. His brother, 
 " Henry Gholmley, when he came out of the 
 " Caftle, fent him 200!. which he diftributed 
 " among the officers and foldiers, to relieve their 
 " diftreffes ; leaving his wife not above i ol. in 
 
 her purfe ; and himfelf not above 5!. more 
 
 than would difcharge his paflage." 
 
 4C 
 
 WITH calm tranquillity ; nay, perhaps, with 
 a degree of pleafure, and delight, mall many a 
 one now tread, thofe once fatal fcenes of horrid 
 bloodfhed, mifery, and war ; and while he traces 
 each mouldering veftige of its antient force, and 
 fplendor, think on the painful fatigue, anxiety, 
 and diflrefs, many a gallant heart has felt within 
 it ! Should we draw a parallel between thofe 
 miferable times (when neither pofieflions, rank, 
 age, nor even fex, were fafe protections !) with 
 thefe, wherein we " dwell under our own fig- 
 " tree, and vine ; and there is none to make us 
 " afraid." How gratefully, ihould each mind 
 be filled, \vith a fenfc pf the bleflings we enjoy .! 
 of the hand which gives them ; and, the brave 
 warrior's active- toil, by whofe (at leajfy-fecovflary 
 means, w^e are thus protected ! The diftrefsful 
 hardfhips, which in every clime, a real foldier 
 undergoes, and his peifeverance beneath them 
 G 2 all,
 
 ( 102 ) 
 
 all, furely, demand fome kind regard, feme grati- 
 tude and companion, from the generous heart ! 
 and, henceforth, when we behold a well-worn 
 veteran, fcar'd (cripled perhaps,) by honourable 
 wounds, who has fpent nis beft days, an4 
 fhed his beft blood, in pppofing the enemies of 
 our King, and Country ; -rlook not upon his 
 poor withered limbs without a thought, what 
 we mould conceive our due, had we been called 
 forth to the fame arduous duty, and painful lot 
 in life : Look not upon him, without confidering 
 what muft have been felt where we now tread ; 
 
 -as well as by thofe, who fo NOBLY fought 
 
 the battles of their country, in AMERICA, and 
 GIBRALTAR ! 
 
 A P P E N D I 
 
 ACCOUNT of SCARBROUGH CASTLE. 
 
 THE devaftations of time and plunderers, 
 added to thofe of cannon balls, againft a 
 fpongy mouldering flone, have cruelly wafted 
 all that was formidably grand, in this celebrated 
 fortrefs. It lay in a neglected {late till the Re- 
 bellion, in the year 1745, when Government 
 haftily gave it fuch a temporary repair, as might 
 
 prevent
 
 prevent a. furprife, and then depofited .therein 
 military (lores ; efpecially of gunpowder, to a 
 great amount, 930 barrels of which were-ftored 
 in the dungeon, under the keep or tower. 
 Warlike accoutrements, and ftands of arms for 
 36,000 men, being fent Northward for the fup- 
 ply of our army, the principal part was alfo 
 placed here ; confiding in the loyalty of the in- 
 habitants, and the defenlible fituation of the 
 Caftle. Every preparation for refifdng the Re- 
 bels, was generoufly made, by the unanimous 
 . exertion of the inhabitants ; many of. whom 
 turned out as volunteers. The then to\vn-ditch, 
 was cleared j all avenues barricaded ; batteries 
 thrown up ; and 99 cannon mounted to defend, 
 or as the modern phrafe has it, to " animate" 
 them. 
 
 AFTER the fuppreffion of that alarming Re- 
 bellion, the Duke of Montague, in the year 
 1746, while Mafter General of the Ordnance, 
 caufed the prefent barracks to be erected, ad- 
 joining to the Caftle wall. Part thereof, once a 
 turret, now cafed with brick, forms a ilair-cafe 
 to thefe barracks; which will contain i2ofol- 
 diers in 1 2 apartments. Belides which there are 
 three others for their officers. 
 
 ON the South-Eaft point of the Caftle-yard, on 
 the declivity of the hill, facing the haven, at 
 fome height above die level and reach of the fea, 
 was, at the une time, erected a battery of 1 2 
 
 G 4 cannons,
 
 cannons, 18 pounders. With a covered way, 
 defcending by a great number of fteps, from the 
 level of the Caftle-yard, to the faid battery ; and 
 left the firing from below, fhould bring down 
 upon them the lofty, but ruined Charles Tower, 
 which ftood on the projecting angle above ; it 
 was then taken down, 
 
 THE only fpring, or fource of water now re- 
 maining, appears under an arched vault in the 
 Caftle-yard, by fome imagined a cellar built 
 under the chapel; while others deem it a proper 
 repofitory, or confecrated fpring, it being itill 
 diftinguifhed by the name of the Lady's Well. 
 
 ITS appearance in fuch a iituation, is at any 
 rate extraordinary. Ij:s diftance from the cliff 
 precipice, is about 25 yards ; 300 feet in perpen- 
 dicular height, from the fea; and with no high 
 lands above, or on its level, but at a mile's, or 
 more, diftance; and not the leaft probability of 
 being fupplied from any one of them. This re- 
 fervoir, however fed, contains about 40 tons of 
 water ; and in the moft remarkable dry years, 
 particularly that of 1765, when moft of the wells 
 and fprings, all the country over, were dried up; 
 this had no diminution of its ufual quantity in 
 other years. 
 
 BY experiments, it has been found to weigh 
 lighter by one ounce, in the Winchefter gallon, 
 than any ether water in this country. An en- 
 gineer,
 
 efmeer who fuperintended building the barracks, 
 and other military works, about the year 1746, 
 had the curiolity to fearch for what fource Lady's 
 Well was fupplied by. He accordingly dug round 
 it in every direction, to a ccnfiderable depth, and 
 found that channels, drains, or conveyances were 
 laid under ground, fo as to carry whatever rain 
 water {hould fall on the area of the Caftle-hill to 
 it. If we reflect that on every inch of furface, at 
 leaft 27 inches of water, on an average, fall an- 
 nually, fuel; fupply will be held as of confequence ; 
 but we do not conceive that by thefe fuperficial 
 drains, the whole of its water is fupplied, fuch 
 drains being infuffidcnt to retain the waters for 
 any time : And though this mode, (with every 
 probability,) might fully fupply the immenfe well, 
 funk in the Caftle-yard ; we by no means com- 
 prehend it the fame, with this apparent and very 
 extraordinary fpring. This water deemed excel-' 
 lent for various ufes, is therefore held in high 
 eileem, 
 
 IN May, the year 1780, a boy of Mr. Edward 
 Mallory's, grocer, in Newbrough-ftreet, fell from 
 the North Eaft fide of the Caftle-hill, to the bot- 
 tom, between two rocks, but providentially no 
 bones were broke ; he pitched upon clay or fand, a 
 good deal crufhed about the head in falling from 
 ledge to ledge, among the {helving, rocks ; in the 
 paffage, it is fuppofed the wind, being very high, 
 caught his cloaths, and, in fome meafure, buoy'd 
 him up ; the diftance he fell, was afterwards mea- 
 fured by Mr. Georee Maling, and was 381 feet. 
 
 ON
 
 ON Sunday the spth of April,, 1787, a boy, 
 1 5 years of age, belonging to Mr. Jonathan Hun- 
 trifs, bricklayer, fell from apart of the Caftle-hill, 
 called the Bloody Wall, from the top to the bot- 
 tom, and though forely crufhed and bruifed in 
 feveral parts, yet not a bone was broke or diflo- 
 cated ; the depth he fell, on a moderate com- 
 putation, is 300 feet j he fo foon recovered, that 
 ion the Tuefday following he was able, (with 
 crutches) to go out of doors, and is now, June 
 -ift, 1787, in a fair way of recovery. 
 
 THE Caftle is at prefent garrifoned by a fmall de- 
 tachment from the artillery, confuting of one 
 mafter, and four deputy gunners ; whofe length 
 of good and actual fervice, has intitled them to 
 the well-earned tranquillity of their prefent re- 
 pofe. 
 
 THE governor of this Gaftle, is the moft per- 
 fectly brave, Sir Hugh Pallifer, Bart. Vice Admi- 
 ral of the White ; who in lefs factious times, muft 
 have been univerfally deemed what the great 
 BAYARD long ago was* An officer whofe heart was 
 a Jiranger to fear, and every deed that ivas reproach- 
 full ! 
 
 AFTER perufing the account of the laft liege 
 Scarbrough Caftle underwent,, it may divert the 
 reader to prefent him with a letter, written at 
 the fiege of a neighbouring place, (Newcaftle) 
 
 very 
 * Le Chevalier fans Peur, et fans reproche.
 
 very near the fame period with that of Scarbro', 
 which affords both a ftrong contrail with the 
 fpirit of Sir Hugh Cholmley's memoir, and a 
 whimfical fketch of pride, and meannefs, expref- 
 fed in the fame epiftle, by a Parliamentary Gene- 
 ral Officer of thofe times. 
 
 Sir John Leflefs letter^ to Sir Thomas Riddle, of 
 Gate/head^ upon the fiege of Newcqftle, in the 
 year 1 640 : 
 
 c SIR THOMAS, 
 
 4 BETWEEN me and God, it makes my heart 
 e bleed bleud, to fee the warks gaen thro* fo trim 
 ' a garden as yours. I hae been twa times wi my 
 ' coufm, the General, and fae lhall I fax times 
 
 * mare, afore the wark gae that gate ; but gin a* 
 
 * this be dune. Sir Thcmas, yee maun macke the 
 ' twenty pound, thretty ; and I maun hae the 
 
 * tag'd tail'd trooper that ftands in the ftaw ; and 
 4 the little wee trim gaeing thing that ftands in'the 
 ' neuk o'th ha', chirping and chiming at the noun- 
 
 * tide of the day ; and forty bows of beer to faw 
 ' the mains witha' ; and as I am a Chevalier of 
 < fortune, and a limb of the houfe of Rothes, as the 
 
 * muckle maun kift in Edinburg auld Kirk can 
 
 * weel witnefs, for thefe aught hundred years bye- 
 
 * gaine,
 
 * gaine, nought mall fkaith your houfe, within or 
 4 without, to the validome of a twapenny chicken, 
 
 * Yours, 
 
 * J o H N LESLEY, 
 
 c Major General, and Captain over fax fcore 
 ' and twa men, and fome mare ; Siller 
 
 * Tacker of Sterling; Conftable of Leith ; 
 
 * and Sir John Lefley, Knight, to the 
 
 * boot of a that!' 
 
 FROM every part of the Caftle-hill, there is a 
 beautiful, commanding view, whether towards 
 the land, or fea; the country, pier, and new 
 buildings, afford a delightful variegated map 
 and the fea, in a clear day, can no where be 
 viewed to greater advantage. Hence is difco- 
 vered, not only the approach of mips, but often 
 fcools, or fhoals of various fifh ; efpecially thofe 
 immenfe emigrations' of Herrings ; their dire 
 foe, the perfecuting Porpus ; or the majeftic 
 Whale ! nor is the following defcripticn of the 
 eaftern view from the Caftle, fabulous, though 
 poetic. 
 
 " In Ea^ern file now feas tormented foam ; 
 Now foft afcending from the beadh, all mute, 
 "All motionlefs, like an expanfive plain 
 Of polifhed criftal ; the blue diftant clouds 
 Unite their waves, and, now, by fcaly lhoale 
 
 Are all with glory clcath ; d 
 
 Herrings,,
 
 ( Io 9 ) 
 
 *' Herrings, by the Sun's meridian 
 Fluttering on the furface of the fea, 
 
 Hence, are diftindlly feen 
 
 Every fcale 
 
 Twinkles with living luftre, varied ftill 
 
 By motion, depth, and diftance ; 
 
 Now, by the finny thoufands ting'd, the xvaves, 
 
 All mine cerulean faphire; now the gems, 
 
 So multitudinous, appear fo rare ; 
 
 Nor words can paint their light; nor fancy find, 
 
 In all her mingled cells, a femblance meet, 
 
 To match their combinations 
 
 While 
 
 On moves the dark monfter, whofe broad back appears 
 Scarce covered by the fea, Leviathan, 
 Hugeft of living creatures, Ocean's King.'* 
 
 Scarbroitgb, a Poem 
 
 ON tKe 25th of November, anno 1785 ; two 
 large fized Whales, (as fuppofed, the male, and 
 female) being feen from this place, were purfued, 
 and one ftruck by fome feamen of Scarbrough ; 
 but, the harpooner, who jumped on the Whale's 
 back, to dart his harpoon into him, unaccuf- 
 tomed to fo precarious a fituation, was confufed, 
 and did not implicitly follow the directions given 
 him ; by which means, the harpoon not penetra- 
 ting to a fufficient depth, the fim, worth many- 
 hundred pounds, made its efcape ! 
 
 HENCE alfo, the noble projections of this beau- 
 tiful coaft, entertain the eye with their grandeur, 
 variety, and extent !
 
 no 
 
 tLAMBROUGH-HEAD. 
 
 THE Eafternmoft boundary of the view, and 
 the jurifdiction, invites every ftranger of 
 real curiofity, to a nearer infpection. Parties are 
 often formed to vifit it by water, in Auguft, and 
 September. Though its entertainments are mojl 
 aftoniftiing, about the beginning of June. This 
 angle of the ifland, fronts about S. E. its cliffs 
 are of a white crumbling rock, which is from one, 
 to about 300 feet in perpendicular height ; full 
 of fmall cavities, and projecting ledges of ftone, 
 which afford both refting places, and receffes for 
 nefts, to an inconceivable multitude of different 
 fea fowl ! At its foot, which the fea waflies, are 
 many real grottos, and caverns, fome among them, 
 of magnificent dimenfions, highly worthy the 
 pain's of inveftigating to thofe who are delighted 
 ' with favage rocky fcenes, and bold grotefque na- 
 ture, ftupenduoufly phantailic ! This range of 
 
 cliff, forming divers little bays, and undulating 
 fweeps, extends about fix miles ; the whole of 
 its perpendicular front, in moderate weather, is 
 fo covered with Awks, Gulls, Black Guillimotes, 
 Kittywakes, Puffins, Cormorants, Sea Parrots ; 
 and among the caverns, Rock Pidgeons ; that 
 an idea can hardly be conveyed of their numbers, 
 or amazing appearance, and varieties. It mufl 
 
 be
 
 ( "I ) 
 
 be feen, to be comprehended, and once feen, will 
 never be forgotten ! 
 
 THE contemplation of a cliff thus " covered 
 " with hatching birds (fays Dr. Goldfmith) af- 
 " fords a very agreeable entertainment j and as 
 " they iit upon the ledges of the rocks, one above 
 " another, with their white breafts forward, the 
 " whole group has not unaptly been compared 
 " to the view of an apothecary's fhop ! In breed- 
 " ing too, they have frequent contefts : one bird 
 ct who has no neft of her own, attempts to dif- 
 " poffefs another, and put herfelf in the place. 
 " This often happens among all the Gull kind* 
 " and I have feen the poor bird, thus difplaced 
 u by her more powerful invader, iit near the 
 " neft, in penfive discontent, while the other 
 " feemed quite comfortable in her new habita- 
 " tion ! Yet this place of pre-eminence, is not 
 " eafily obtained ; for the inftant the invader 
 " goes to fnatch a momentary fuftenance, the 
 " other enters upon her own, and always ven- 
 " tures another battle, before flic relinquifhes 
 " thejuftnefs of her claim!" 
 
 IN the month of May, and June, they lay 
 their eggs, and hatch their young, in a fituation 
 apparently inacceflible to any but the winged 
 part of the creation! Yet what can be fafe on 
 this earth, that is delirable in the prying, and 
 infatiable eye of man ! By means of flake?, 
 driven in the ground above, and ropes made faft 
 to them, boys, and perfons of light weight, are 
 
 let
 
 let down the face of the Rock, with bafkets, who 
 rob the nefts of eggs, to their full fatiety j and 
 fend them, in loads, for the fugar works at 
 Hull, &c. Notwithstanding which immenfe, and 
 conftant depredations, of late, at the bird's breed- 
 ing feafon, their ufual inereafe, feems to fuffer 
 no vifible diminution ! 
 
 IT would be idle to attempt defcribing the effect 
 produced by fuch miriads of birds, thick fpread 
 over fo vaft a wall of rock, more than two leagues 
 in length^ all cdnfufedlyfwarming at their different 
 purfuits ; croaking ; fcreaming ; feeding their 
 noify young : calling their, mates ; foaring over 
 your head ; or, ftudding the emboffed rocks with 
 their varied forms ; fome in groups, floating, like 
 a diftant navy, on the water ; others fkimming 
 along its furface, in fearch of foodbut if a gun 
 is fired, all within reach of its terrifying found, 
 leave their occupations ; - nay, their nefts, and 
 young ; rum together in dark clouds of com- 
 plainailts, " thick and mimberlefs as the gay mcics 
 which do people fun-beams" remonft rating, as it 
 were, on the cruelty of fuch unprovoked inva- 
 iions, on fo peaceable, harmlefs, and fecluded a 
 tribe ! Many of the birds are of beautiful plu- 
 mage, diverfined forms, and gay colours, but 
 fliould be viewed by a near approach to the rock, 
 which can only be fafely, and fatisfaclorily ef- 
 fected, in very calm weather. Even then, the 
 folemn roar of the waves fwelling into, and pour- 
 ing back, their vaft momentary cafcades, from 
 
 the
 
 the huge caverns beneath ; added to the immenfe 
 expanded furface before you the confufed hurly 
 burly, and din of fcreams, over head in fliort, 
 the various unufual founds, that gather on every 
 fide above, below, and all around, fill the mind 
 with grand, and even folemn ideas ; fublimely 
 pleaiing ! Scarce any one on viliting this place, 
 does not wifh to indulge them, in a few mo- 
 ments of folitary, or uninterrupted obfervation ! 
 
 BURLINGTON, about 5 miles from Flambrough, 
 and 20 from Scarbrough ; is a large town, and 
 affords a commodious head quarter for thofe 
 who wifh to take this excurfion, chiefly by land : 
 From thence, to the village of Flambrough, the 
 road is exceeding good, through pleafant corn 
 fields, and over an open country, with a fine 
 command of Burlington-bay ; and a fea, as well 
 
 as land view, that cannot fail to arnufe. At 
 
 Flambrough, a village intirely inhabited by 
 fimennen, and their families ; a guide may be 
 eafily obtained, who will procure a boat, convey 
 you to the moft entertaining fpots, and fatisfy 
 the inquiries of the curious traveller. It is re- 
 markable, that Flamingos, (of which there are 
 many in Andalufia, and Granada, in Spain) have 
 been obferved by Pere Labat, to drink a furpri- 
 fmg quantity of fea-water Gulls, and fea fowl 
 in general, there can be no doubt, alfo drink 
 fea-water, as vaft numbers of them frequent, and 
 live long in fituations, where freih water may not 
 poffibly be obtained ; and it is ;well known, that 
 
 H the
 
 ( "4 ) 
 
 the blood muft foon become unfit for circulation, 
 unlefs occalionally diluted by fome kind of fluid. 
 
 THE plumage of thefe birds, and indeed all 
 fea fowl in general, is faid to be ufelefs for bed- 
 ding ; as from ; the oilinefs of its nature, it re- 
 tains an offenfive fmell, however carefully fe- 
 lected or prepared. Among thefe birds, the large 
 grey Sea Gull is eatable-^-as are moft of the dif- 
 ferent eggs. But the Kittywake, though feldom 
 in ufe here, is, in fome places, coniidered as 
 a delicacy : " The young of them, fays Mr. 
 " Pennant, are a favourite dim in North Britain, 
 " being ferved up a little before dinner, as a 
 whet for the appetite. I was told of an honeft 
 " gentleman, who was fet down, for the firft 
 " time, to this kind of ivhet^ as he fuppofed, and 
 " after demolishing half-a-dozen, with much im- 
 " patience declared, that though he had eaten 
 " fax, he did not find himfelf a bit more hungry 
 " than before he began !" 
 
 -/I! 
 
 Of the Fiji caught near, and brought to Scqrbrough, 
 and the mode of taking them. 
 
 THE principal fifli, brought to Scarbrough 
 for fale, are Cod, Haddoc, Ling, Scate, 
 Hollibut, Codling, Herrings, Turbot, Whiting, 
 Pars, Billits, Cole Fifh, Lobflers, * Crabs, and 
 
 Shrimps. 
 
 * Thofe broughffroin Flambrough are extraordinarily good.
 
 Shrimps.- The feafon for Cod, from a mif- 
 taken idea entertained by many, has been fup- 
 pofed to be altogether confined to the winter 
 months ; but as a convincing proof to the con- 
 trary, many of them are daily brought to this 
 market, in June, July, and Auguft, in the fineft 
 feafon. Beiides, during thofe months, both on 
 thefe coafts, and the banks of Newfoundland, 
 immenfe quantities, in the higheft perfection, 
 are taken and falted, for the winter confumption 
 of the catholic world. The good condition, or 
 as it is ordinarily termed, " the being in feafon" 
 of Cod, is known by its particular thicknefs to- 
 wards .the head and moulders. 
 
 IN May, and part of June, the larger fized fih 
 of this kind, as well as Ling, do, many of them, 
 depofit their fpawn, but by the end of June, 
 moil of them, except the Ling, are again fit for 
 the table. Such as fifliermen take near the more, 
 and on fandy banks, are always of a loofe tex- 
 ture, and in poor condition in every feafon of 
 the year. The healthy and fine fim, are caught 
 on a rocky bottom. This coaft indeed chiefly 
 confifts of covered rocks, in places intermixed 
 with fand, that both flielter Crabs, Lobfters, and 
 various (hell fim \ as well as produce fuch food 
 as the larger fim delight in. The vaft extent of 
 fear, or ledge of rocks as far as, and upon the 
 very Dogger Bank, intcrfperfed with iandy fpots, 
 afford fuitable places for them to fpawn in, as 
 well as to feed. Accordingly fimcrmen remark, 
 
 H 2 that
 
 that when they lay their lines in deep water, on 
 a rocky bottom, they conftantly take ; but, 
 when by chance, or through inexperience, on 
 fand ; they feldom fucceed in any material de- 
 gree ; and what they catch, is neither large, nor 
 good in its kind. -Alfo, that Cod fiih do not 
 migrate from hence, but are to be found on this 
 coaft throughout the year. 
 
 LING, as well as Cod are, in the months of 
 July and Auguft, bought by thofe who fait them, 
 at, from eleven millings, to fourteen per fcore. 
 Ling, meaiuring not lefs than 26 inches (from 
 gill to the fork of the tail); and Cod, 20 inches. 
 Ling, not unfrequently, weighing 4 ftone weight 
 each. A Cod fim was taken near Scarbrough, 
 1755, meafuring five feet eight inches; girth, 
 five feet ; weighed 78 pound; and fold for one 
 milling ! To every ftone, they allow two pecks 
 of fait for curing them ; and when dry, are fold 
 from 1 81. to 22!. per ton. By the iingle fifti, 
 they are, not unfrequently, bought, after a plen- 
 tiful take, at about a halfpenny a pound. 
 
 % 
 
 THE immenfe banks of Newfoundland, is the 
 greateftknown refortforCodandLing. This confti- 
 tutes a flat of above 500 miles long; furrounded 
 by deep fea; their quantities there furpafs all cal- 
 culation ; but it is afferted of them, that they go 
 farther North to depofit their fpawn. Their in- 
 creafe is moil prodigious. The fpawn of a Cod 
 fifh, taken in December, was found to contain 
 
 3,686,760
 
 3>686,76o eggs. A gentleman of this neighbour- 
 hood, in the month of April, 1786, obtained 
 the kelk, or ipawn of a Ling, at Scarbrough, 
 which weighed We pounds and a half, (good 
 weight) avoirdupois j each grain contained 500 
 eggs ; confequently, the whole amounted to the 
 almoft incredible number of, 19,248,625, 
 
 FISHERMEN inform us, that a fea fifh in gene- 
 ral, muft be fix years old, before it is fit to be 
 ferved up to table. " Mackarel, one year old, are 
 no larger than one's finger ; thofe of two, twice 
 as big ; at three or four, they become that fmall 
 kind of Mackarel, that have neither milts, nor 
 roes; between five and fix, fuch as are com- 
 monly brought to market. Flat fiih, in like 
 manner. The Turbot one year old, is no bigger 
 than a crown piece ; at two, as broad as one's 
 hand ; but muft be five or fix before it is in per- 
 fection." The great collection of fpawn is obfer- 
 ved only in large and old fifli. The Scate kind 
 jn October go quite out of feafon,but after an inter- 
 val of about fix weeks, are again good ; though 
 in their higheft perfection from May and June, 
 through the fummer. The fmaller filh which do 
 not fpawn, and which fifliermen therefore term 
 maidJsn, are always fit for the table. And it may 
 be in general remarked, that after June, the fifh, 
 taken on this coaft, are, for the moft part, good ; 
 though the Turbot is not in high perfection. 
 Soals are feldom brought in any abundance 
 to this market, but are here excellent, and 
 
 H to
 
 ( "8 ) 
 
 to be found in all the fandy bays, particularly 
 Filey. We alfo collect from experienced fiftief- 
 
 men, and others on this co? -, that the time of 
 
 s * 
 fpawning, cannot be exactly afcertained for each 
 
 fifh : as it is often found a month, or more, after 
 the ufual term afligned, that they have not en- 
 tirely depolited their fpawn. However, either 
 male, or female fifh of the Cod, may be always 
 had in feafon ; the male, apparently, recovers 
 fooner than the female ; and Imall fized fifli are 
 little affected at any period. 
 
 THIS whole coaft is richly mpplied with va- 
 rieties of excellent fifli. It proves an error in the 
 writings of naturalifts, as well refpecting the fea- 
 fon of Cod and Ling, and their migrations, a.; 
 that of Herrings ; fince they are to be taken here 
 through the year. It is true the great flioals of 
 16 Herrings from the North, begin to appear off 
 the Scottifti coaft, and the Shetland iflands, in 
 April ; and arrive with us- about June. Their 
 length and breadth is fuch, as alters the very ap- 
 pearance of the ocean. They divide into co- 
 lumns five or fix miles in length, and two, three, 
 or four in breadth, while the water before them 
 curls up as if forced out of its bed. Sometimes 
 they fink for the fpace of ten or fifteen minutes, 
 then rife again to the furface, and in bright wea- 
 ther reflect a variety of fplendid colours, like a 
 field befpangled with purple, gold, and azure. 
 Tho' the fifhermen often take as far as 2000 * bar- 
 rels 
 
 * Vide Dr. Goldfmith's Animated Nature.
 
 ( "9 ) 
 
 rels at a general draft, and multitudes are employed 
 in taking them for a long continuance, it is cal- 
 culated, man does not obtain more than one in a 
 million of their numbers. The Gulls, Sharks, 
 Ganets, and Porpuffes purfue them with mediant 
 greedinefsj and the fpermaceti Whales, when 
 they crofs their latitudes, fwallow barrels at a 
 a yawn." But, " the power of encreaiing in thefe 
 " animals exceeds our idea," and, " adds Mr. 
 " Goldfmith, would in a very mort time outftrip 
 " all calculation. A iingle Herring, if fuflered 
 " to multiply unmolefted and undiminifhed for 
 "20 years, would mew a progeny greater in bulk 
 *' than ten fuch globes as that we live upon. But 
 " happily the balance of nature is exactly pre- 
 " ferved, and their confumption is equal to their 
 " fecundity. Elfe the fea would foon become 
 " overcharged with the burthen of its own prq- 
 " ductions ; and that element, which at prefent 
 " diftributes health and plenty to the more, 
 *' would but load it with putrefaction." 
 
 IT may not be difpleafing to perfons of cu- 
 riofity, if we offer them a fhort Iketch of an 
 authentic account we obtained, relative to the 
 aftonifliing increafe in fome of the fpecies we here 
 
 have enumerated. A Flounder of two ounces 
 
 weight, contained 133,40? e gg s One of 24 
 
 ounces, 1,357,400 Herrings, weighing from 
 
 4 ounces, to 5$, from 21,285, to 36,960 
 
 Lobilers, from 14, to 36 ounces, contained as for 
 
 as 21,699 Mackar el, 2oounces, 454>9 6z 
 
 H 4 Prawn,
 
 ( 120 ) 
 
 3,806 Shrimps, from 2,849, U P to 
 
 6,807 Smelts, from 14,411, to 38,278 
 
 Soal, of 5 ounces weight, 38,772 ; one ditto, 14 
 ounces and a half, contained 100,362. To which 
 may be added the Cod before mentioned, pro- 
 ducing 3,686,760 ; and a Ling 19,248,625 ! ! 
 
 THERE are two forts of boats ufed by the 
 fifhermen from this port, which differ from thofe 
 in the South, viz. the Cobble, and the Five-men- 
 boat. The Cobble is 20 feet 6 inches long, five 
 feet in extreme breadth, wide floored and nearly 
 flat bottomed ; about one ton burthen, and 
 rowed with three pair of fhort oars, or Ikulls, 
 occaiionally fleping a maft, and hoifHng a lug fail. 
 It is faid to be an admirable kind of fea boat, 
 but we hardly know any port in Europe, where 
 the fame is not afferted of conftruclions as dif- 
 ferent as we can well fuppofe to be ufed on the 
 fame element ; and after feme attention towards 
 it as a matter of curiofity, and worth regarding 
 in other points of view, it mould feem in general, 
 with refpect to fafety, that more depends on 
 judicious management of the boat, than its con- 
 ftruction. The Five-men-boat is forty feet long, 
 fifteen broad, clincher built, and 25 tons burthen; 
 navigated by fix men and a boy; but called 
 " Five-men-boats," from their being only fo many, 
 who {hare in the profits of the boat ; the other 
 man and boy are hired to cook, &c. and have 
 only their wages. Three men, man each Cobble, 
 for fulling; each of them is provided with three 
 
 lines
 
 lines, which they take with them, neatly coiled 
 upon an oblong bafket, conftructed for the pur- 
 pofe. Their hooks are baited and placed very 
 regularly in the centre of the coil ; each line is 
 furnifhed with28ohooks,at6feet 2 inches diftance 
 from each other. The hooks are fattened to 
 ftrong hone hair lines, 27 inches in length. Nine 
 of thefe lines are fattened together, and ufed as 
 one line, which extends about 3 miles, and is 
 furniflied with above 2,500 hooks. An anchor 
 and buoy are fixed at the firft end of the line, and 
 one more at each end of each man's line in all, 
 four anchors and four buoys. The line is always 
 laid a. crofs the current. The tides of flood and 
 and ebb continue an equal time on this coaft, and 
 when undifturbed by winds, run each way fix 
 hours. They are fo rapid, that thefifhermen can 
 only fhoot, and hawl their lines, at the turn of the 
 tide ; and therefore, the lines always remain upon 
 the ground about fix hours. The fame rapidity 
 of tide, prevents their ufing hand lines. 
 
 THE Five-men-boats are much employed in 
 the Herring fifhery at Yarmouth, where they go 
 in September^ and return in November ; after 
 which, they generally lay their great boats up, 
 until the beginning of Lent; at which time they 
 go ofFto the edge of the Dogger-bank, and other 
 places, taking two Cobbles on board when, 
 upon their fifhing ground, they come to anchor, 
 and fifh from their boats in the fame manner as 
 thole who go from the more in a cobble. They 
 
 commonly
 
 ( 122 ) 
 
 commonly run into harbour twice a week to fell 
 their iilh. Thefe boats are decked at each end, 
 but open in the middle, and carry two confides 
 able .ug fails ; they are remarkable fwift failers, 
 but, being built very flight, require great ma- 
 nagement in a heavy fea. 
 
 THE beft bait for all kinds of lifli, is frefh 
 Herring, cut in pieces of a proper fize. It is an 
 undoubted fact, though not generally underftood, 
 that Herrings are to be taken on this coaft at any 
 time in the Winter, and all the fpring, whenever 
 the ftihermen put down their nets for that pur- 
 pofe. Small LamprieJ brought from Tadeafter, 
 Haddocks, cut in pieces, Mufcles, fand Worms, 
 Limpits, and even Bullocks Liver a,re alfo ufed. 
 
 SCARBROUGH Sand, (near that fpot, within the 
 line of the Pier,) whereon fliips are built, is the 
 general market for their fifli. The cobble boats 
 are often run up from low water mark on wheels, 
 with a fail fet, conducted by the fifhermen, who 
 difpofe of their cargo in the following manner : 
 
 TH E intended purchafer afks the price of the 
 cargo, and bids a groat ; the iifherman ftates a 
 fum on the oppofite extreme, as much perhaps 
 above its worth,' as was bid lefs than its value : 
 the one bids up, and the other reduces his de- 
 mand ; until they meet at a reafonable point, 
 when the purchafer iuddenly exclaims, HET. 
 
 IT
 
 ( 123 ) 
 
 IT occafionally happens, two, or more ladies, 
 pronounce the fame elegant monofyllable of acqui- 
 efcence, at the fame moment ; which ufually pro- 
 duces fomething of a converfation, neither very 
 laconic, nor altogether divefted of a few perfona- 
 lities ! Yet, in this, they but follow the example 
 of our betters but then, the reafon is good on 
 their fides ; for the honourable gentlemen, difpute 
 about the LOAVES as well as FISHES ! 
 
 " S'.iperjlition, in many inftances, here dt'gns to linger ere Jke leaixs 
 the land." 
 
 ONE of them, is obfervable in the univerfal 
 cuftom of fifhermen, when proceeding out to 
 fea on their buiinefs, leaft it fhould prove omi- 
 nous, they will, upon no account whatever, utter 
 a fmgle w^ord but the whole preparation, as 
 well as embarkation, is carried on in the moft 
 profound, and ferious lilence. Whatever may 
 from accident, be neceflary to exprefs, is done by 
 iignificant figns ; nor does this water pantomime 
 conclude, until they arrive on the fifhing ground. 
 
 A NEW {hip is by no means fuffered to go to 
 fea on a Friday and both omens, and lucky, or 
 unlucky days, are not yet flriken out of the 
 fifhermau's traditional callender. 
 
 IT is related of a perfon, who, on the eve of his 
 departure on a confiderable journey, ha vino- a 
 jiew pair of boots brought home, laid them in a 
 clofet ; but very foon after returning, found the 
 rats had fallen upon and eaten them almoft up. 
 
 This
 
 This unlucky event he confidercd might be omi- 
 nous, and therefore waited on a gentleman of 
 great learning, and a philofopher, humbly re* 
 quefling his opinion, whether this were not a 
 dangerous portent, warning him againft the in^ 
 tended journey ? The philofopher,* after a fhort 
 paufe, replied I do not conceive any thing parti- 
 cularly alarming, or portentous, in thefe rats hav- 
 ing eaten your new boots j but if the boots had 
 eaten the rats, I flwuld have been qf a very dif- 
 ferent opinion ! 
 
 BEFORE we leave Scarbrough Sands, it may 
 be expedient to relate a particular cuftom invari- 
 ably obferved thereon. When the feams of a 
 new fhip are iirft calked, each man has his pro- 
 portion of the work marked off, where he is 
 liationecl, 'till the calking be compleated. The 
 man who works nearell the ftem, and the other 
 who is neareft the ftern, are, by indifpenfible 
 cuftom, obliged to demand a kifs of every female, 
 who paiTes during the time of calking If the 
 lady refufes the favour, me may compound by 
 giving fomething to purchafe oil to rub upon his 
 riming iron, that it may more ealily enter thefeam. 
 If the lady will not comply with either of the re- 
 quefts, the carpenter mull take the kifs, or be 
 fevercly cobbed by his companions. 
 
 N. B. Neither inhabitants nor ftrangers are 
 exempted from this tax ladies feldom efthnate 
 the value of a kifs, at lefs than onzjhilling \ 
 
 " PHYSICIANS 
 * CATO.
 
 " PHYSICIANS obferve, that fifli yields little 
 " nourishment, andfoon corrupts; that it abounds 
 " in a grofs fort of oil and water, and hath but 
 " few volatile particles, which renders it lefs lit 
 * e to be converted into the fubflance of ou? 
 " bodies ; that it is cold and moift, and muft 
 " needs (fay they) produce juices of the fame 
 " kind, and confequently is improper to Jtrcngthen 
 " the body." 
 
 WE who (with all deference be it fpoken) 
 are no phyiicians, cannot help obferving, that 
 fuch men as from neceffity, not choice, live 
 chiefly upon fifh, are robuft and long-lived, 
 look healthy, and have a great many children 
 playing about their doors ; that their wives are 
 frequently in the ftraw, and their Jhoals of chil- 
 dren, by no means degenerate, in point of either 
 growth, or any other vifible appearance : on 
 which ftibjeft we lhall only add the following 
 anecdote : 
 
 HENRY Cornelius Agrippa, firft phyfician to 
 the Emperor, Charles V. wrote a treatife, which 
 proved (by deduction of ARGUMENT) that Fifh, 
 Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, Milk, 
 Cabbage, and Bread, were not only in themfelvcs 
 vaftly unwholfome, but in a degree poifonous. 
 On this being related to the Emperor, his Ma- 
 jefty replied, " pues, y que come et medico?" 
 but what docs the doftor eat ? 
 
 RIDES.
 
 RIDES. 
 
 HACKNESS, 
 
 of the principal rides, that the company 
 take, during the fpaw feafon, is to Hack- 
 nefs. Its fituation, fufficiently romantic, is about 
 fix miles S. W. of Scarbrough, in a fmall narrow 
 valley, pent in and contracted by the clofe ap- 
 proach of furrounding hills ; the road winds be- 
 tween them, as they irregularly protrude, adorn- 
 ed with copfe or woods, from their fummit, 
 nearly to the bottom ; the different {hades, and 
 tints of thefc, efpecially in the early fpring, and 
 autumn, are finely contrafted by the rich verdure 
 of fmall fields, and glades, whereby they are 
 interfered. And it is obfervable, that every 
 bead, or hill fide, which projects in the iliort 
 windings of this valley, differs from the reft, as 
 well in lhape, as ornament. On one, fmall de- 
 tached oaklings, riling from a. green fod, and 
 paled round by young afties, gracefully hide their 
 {lender waifts, behind each other. The oppofite 
 (horrida dumis) thick, rough, and briary ; with 
 & featuring of larger fized trees : An entire copfe 
 covers another; and over-againft it, mix'd woods 
 of various kinds j fome interfperfed with heath ; 
 
 others
 
 I2 7 
 
 others bordered with fprinklings of winns or 
 gofs : but fome more confpicuous, to the right, 
 as you approach, are feen delightfully crefted, by 
 a rich plumage of tufted trees : thofe overhang 
 a pleafant narrow flip or glade, rarely noticed, 
 but abounding with tall aih faplings, flickered 
 from every wind ; an admirable fpot for cele- 
 brating a fete champs tre < but now, only the fa- 
 vourite refort of rooks, and protection to cattle 
 in the rude vifitation of the winter's wind: 
 After a fliort meander, a neat church fpire pre- 
 ients itfelf to the view, and the manfion-houfe 
 top is feen to the Southward of it; you here crols, 
 and pafs by, feveral confiderable fprings of excel- 
 lent pure water, which unite and turn an over- 
 fhot mill, that, with its noify frothing cafcade, 
 becomes an agreeable ruftic decoration, both to 
 the hall, and the village. 
 
 A FEW fmall cottages, near a church, (we had 
 almoft faid) in miniature ; the gloomy looking 
 liall or manor-houfe, a few fcattered pines, that 
 nod their venerable heads over the road fide ; 
 and above all the ripiing brook, which meets you 
 on your way to the pubiic-houfe, cannot fai. o 
 engage fome attention. In fliort, thefe are de- 
 corated by abrupt hills, limiting the eye, it is 
 true, exceedingly, but yet amufing it with irregu- 
 lar lines, and platts of wood or copfe, oppofed by 
 the brown dreary barren fummit of Hutton Rujlxll 
 moor, as a foil to them. 
 
 SUCH
 
 SUCH objects will neceflarily gratify the fpec- 
 tator, in proportion only as he is furprifed by the 
 firft view of them, or^ may have had his curiolity 
 anticipated, and his expectations ralfed by florid 
 defcription ! Their out-lines are certainly agree- 
 able, but will be ever liable to much prejudice, 
 from too ftrong a made, or too fanciful a co- 
 louring : yet no one will refufe to acknowledge 
 Hacknefs affords a peculiar fcenery-^-rural at leaft, 
 and pleafingly fecluded, as well as agreeably con- 
 trafted, with that gay neighbouring throng, 
 where all are folicitous to appear happy and opu- 
 lent, or beautiful, and engageingly accomplimed! 
 
 AT the South end of the village, is a fmall 
 public houfe, whither the company often refort 
 to drink tea, and not unfrequently to partake of 
 a ruftic dinner; which, upon previous notice, 
 the widow Haider takes care to provide, if not 
 elegantly i yet in a manner fo wholfome, cleanly, 
 and neat, as fufficiently to recommend a plain 
 joint, and a barn door fowl> to a keen appetite ; 
 and fuch, the pure air, the ride, and a range 
 among thofe neighbouring " dingles, dells, and 
 bofty bourns" can fcarce fail to excite* 
 
 NEAR the public houfe, flows the Derwent ; 
 whofe ftream affords no inconfider^bTe**rtore of 
 fmall Trout, and Grayling, which the politenefs, 
 and liberal manners of Mr. Johnflone, and Mr. 
 Ofbaldefton, (who claim the royalty of its banks) 
 have never withheld from the fair angler. 
 
 SUCH
 
 SUCH as delight in Fly Fiming, and know 
 how to avail themielves of the wriicisus moment, 
 may exclaim with Gay : 
 
 ' Around the fteel no tortured worm (hall twine ; 
 
 ' Xo blood of living infe<5t ftain my line; 
 
 ' Let me, lefs cruel, caft the feathered hook, 
 
 ' With pliant rod athwart the pebbled brook ; 
 
 ' Silent along the mazy margin ftrav, 
 
 ' And with the furwrought fiy delude the prey ! 
 
 " 
 
 BUT thofe who wifh to enjoy fuch arnufements 
 on a higher fcale, make Driffield, the occafional 
 fcene of their dexterity, and perfeverance ; a 
 pleafant and coniidefable town, about 25 miles 
 from Scarbrough, (not unworthy of a Summer's 
 vifit, even from thofe who content themfelves 
 with rejoicing over the watery vi;dms of anz- 
 .rt, finoaking, on the \vell-fpread board). 
 However, not without perrriiflion firft obtained 
 Qi R. Langley, Efq; and thofe other gentlemen, 
 within whofe exteniiye royalties it is iituated. 
 
 " HAPPY England! (to borrow the elegant 
 fimplicity of Walton's remark) where the fea 
 furnifhes an abundant and luxurious rcpaft ; and 
 the frefli waters, an innocent and harmlefs paf- 
 time ; where the angler, in chearful folitude, 
 ftrolls by the edge of the ftream, and fears neither 
 the coiled Snake, nor the lurking Crocodile; 
 where he can retire at night with hh few Trouts, 
 to foine friendly cottage, where the landlady is 
 good, and the daughter innocent and beautiful ; 
 where the room is cleanly, with lavender in the 
 
 I fheets,
 
 130 
 
 Sheets, and twenty ballads (hick about the wall 1 
 There, he can enjoy the company of a talkative 
 brother fportfman ; have his Trouts drafted for 
 fupper ; tell tales ; hum old tunes, or fmg a 
 merry catch. There, he can talk of the wonders 
 of nature, with learned admiration; or find fome 
 harmlefs fport to content him; and pafs away a 
 little time, without offence to God, or injury to 
 man!" 
 
 IF wandering in purfuit of romantic views, of 
 groups, or detached objects ; pichirefque, many 
 of them, as well as filvan, be a defirable enter- 
 tainment to the ftranger, he will find himfelf 
 amufed, by climbing the hill, immediately behind 
 the public houfe, before noticed, under the appel- 
 lation of Hacknefs-Head* 
 
 ON the South fide of this, and from its plain, 
 is feen the river Derwent, winding its filvered 
 courfe, amidft fmall meadows, fcattered trees, and 
 here and there, a folitary farm, or mill, or 
 bridge, all bounded by the dreary heights of 
 Hutton Bufhell moor. 
 
 AN oppolite valley to the North, and which 
 continues on Wcftward, from the church, leads 
 to many a verdant fketch, whofe modeft beauties 
 lay unrevealed, to the curfory or incurious vilitor; 
 but yield ample recompence, for the momentary 
 toil of exploring them. Tho' little calculated for 
 the noify and tumultuous plcafures of the throng, 
 
 it
 
 it affords excellent returns of echo, well adapted 
 to prolong the charming undulations of mulical 
 found. 
 
 IN the gloomy hours of a fultry day, while 
 flraying along iuch fequeftered fcenes as thefe, 
 " When the fweet ivind doth gently klfs the leaves , 
 And they, do make no noife" A tranquil and fafci- 
 nating pleafure, not unfrequently, creeps into the 
 mind, and we feel tempted to indulge a penfive 
 turn of thought, in folitude and contemplation ! 
 While the young and fanguine, perhaps, give 
 way to a figh, neither unnatural to refwlt, or re- 
 prehenfible to encourage, another fort of filken 
 charm enthrals the more gravely difpofed; and 
 folitude, the parent of thought, fills each with 
 their favourite reveries !-^how pleafing to in*. 
 dulge them ! 
 
 PERHAPS, mail fomc one fay, the few real 
 wants of man, the whole of all his neceffary 
 cares, might, in fuch a retirement, be eafily and 
 amply fupplied, in fome low, but comfortable 
 habitation, and ample portions of both mosey 
 and time (lavimed profufely, to gratify the hu- 
 mour of others, rather than our own) be here 
 employed, with the real pleafure of benefiting the 
 induftrious, and improving the native beauties of 
 the region, 
 
 Give
 
 " Give me with mind ferene, 
 And guiltlefs heart, to range the filvan fcenc j 
 On every thorn delightful wifdom grows ; 
 In every rill a fiveet inftruftion flows. 
 There pleafing objedts, ufeful thoughts fuggeft ; 
 The fenfe is ravifhed, and the foul is bleft." 
 
 Dr. YOUNG. 
 
 POSSIBLY fome fuch ideas, (joined to the vexa- 
 tions of life ;) ftriking deeply on a ferious mind, 
 have conduced more to monaftic retirement, 
 among both men and women, than that lefs rati- 
 onal, and gloomy enthufiafm, to which it has, 
 among us, been ufually attributed. 
 
 THOUGH folitude in a drifter fenfe, feems to be 
 
 abhorred by human nature, and it is pronounced 
 
 not good for man or woman to dwell alone : 
 
 ' retirement is, occafionaliy t plealing ; and by habit, 
 
 may become entirely fo : -Some difpofitions are 
 
 moft at eafe within the narrower limits of fociety 
 while free from its fedu&ions, they find leifure 
 to purfue the favourite bent of their humour, or 
 genius, and at length, the applications of either, 
 have proved extenlively beneficial ! 
 
 ACCORDINGLY, for improvements in the ufe- 
 ful arts of life, as well as many of the more ele- 
 gant employments of it ; the Weftern world is 
 | indebted to monaftic characters, in a greater pro- 
 portion than to any other defcription of men. 
 Their convents were the earlieft feminaries of 
 learning^ as well as religion^ among us ; and from 
 | the Druid, to the Jefuit> they have largely and 
 
 effentially
 
 K '33 ) 
 
 efTentially contributed, to the refinements of fo<- 
 ciety, and the improvement of its valuable arts. 
 
 IF we examine the ufcful and ingenious appli- 
 cation of their time, made by many of the monks 
 in thefe kingdoms, to fay nothing of other 
 inftances at leaft, we fhall be convinced, how 
 much AGRICULTURE, and ARCHITECTURE, have 
 been indebted to their good fenfe, leifure, and 
 oppulence ! 
 
 WHAT might not Kacknefs now be made ? 
 were it in the hands of fuch men, whofe profef- 
 fion and employments, fix them to a relidence, 
 which their independence, tafte, and affluence, 
 all lead them to join hand in hand, for improving. 
 And, in fact, how beautiful, and with how little 
 more afliflance, than that of the well-guided axe, 
 and the fpade, might it ftill be rendered ! Yet, 
 to confefs the truth, few implements require 
 more judgment, and good fenfe, in fuch applica- 
 tions, than thofe now alluded to ! 
 
 Enviable, muft have been that calm tranquillity 
 of a virtuous mind, which the accomplilhed and 
 benevolent Lady Hilda, here indulged, in this 
 once more wildly delightful, but ftill pleafing re- 
 tirement 1 Hither, that Princefs, with her affec- 
 tionate pupil and companion, Bega, chofe to re- 
 treat, in the evening of her days. Here, me 
 fought to unbend from the cares and folicitude of 
 public life, and to recruit her wafted health, 
 
 1 3 now
 
 now rapidly declining ; impaired, as it was, by 
 long and affiduous attention, to the fevered 
 offices of philantrophy, and religion, finking 
 under the weight of years. She was a princefs, 
 the daughter of Hererick, nephew to Edwin, 
 King of Northumberland, born near Whitby.* 
 
 WHEN this illuftrious Lady had cam pleated 
 that grand foundation of Whitby Abbey, as well 
 as divers other ufeful eftabliftiments ; {he ber 
 flowed herfelf, and obtained from others, ample 
 endowments for their refpeclive fupport. But 
 her broken health, and declining age, required 
 her to withdraw from the Abbey, over which ihe 
 long prefided ; and fixe here (at Hacknefs) built, 
 and endowed a monaftery, or cell, fof eight pro- 
 feffed Nuns, who taught their own fex the duties 
 of the chriftian religion, and the offices of moral 
 life, devoting themfelves to the fervice of God, 
 and the inftruction of their fellow creatures ; many 
 of whom were then, in a very barbarous and un- 
 informed Hate. 
 
 WITH thefe, Ihe for a fhort feafon, remained ; 
 but left her friend and ailociate, Bega, to fuper- 
 intend them, when he herfelf was called to at- 
 tend (for the laft time,) the more important ex;- 
 gences of her noble eftabliihment, at Whitby : 
 an eftablifhment, in that her day, both fplendid, 
 and magnificent ; which fupplied the place of a 
 univerfity, for the well-difpofed of either fex j 
 
 maay 
 * *jth Augqft, A. D. 614,
 
 many of whom educated there, afterwards be- 
 came ufeful ornaments to religion, and fociety. 
 
 THE fite of the Abbefs Hilda's monaftery, at 
 Hacknefs, is believed to have been where the 
 hall, or manor houfe now ftands. When a well, 
 and the foundations for a wall were not many 
 years fince, funk, adjoining to it, a number of 
 human bones were difcovered ; fome, efpecially 
 the teeth, in a ftate of extraordinary prefervation. 
 All of them^were, (by order of R. B. Johnftone, 
 Efq; then refiding at the Hall), collected, and 
 decently interred, in the church-yard. 
 
 IT has been generally fuppofed that this origi- 
 nal monaftery, or cell, was deftroyed by the 
 Danes, in fome of their invafions under Hubba, 
 
 and Inguar ; And the one afterwards founded 
 
 by Abbot Cerlo, to have been erected upon its 
 ruins. 
 
 THE prefent dining-room and hall of the 
 manor houfe, tradition fays, conftituted the re- 
 fectory, belonging to that eftablifhment. 
 
 AT the defolution of monafteries by Henry 
 VIII. four monks of the order of Benedictines 
 were all that remained who belonged to die cell, 
 or monaftery of Hacknefs. The tythes were im- 
 propriated, and twenty pounds a year out. of 
 them, affigned for the fupport cf the officiating 
 curate. 
 
 I 4 FOR
 
 FOR the more interefting particulars of the 
 Lady Hilda's hiftory, who, in after times, was 
 canonized, and ftands recorded as a Saint, for 
 her exemplary life ; the curious may be referred 
 to Mr. Charleton's extenfive hiftory of Whitby. 
 
 HER general character is briefly felected from 
 Venerable Bede, and written under an urn, 
 iketched to her refpectable memory in Hacknefs 
 church, as follows : 
 
 " This fervant of Chri/l, the Abbefs Hilda ; 
 " whom all that knew her called mother, for her 
 piety find grace ', 'was not only an example 
 ife tofuch as lived in hermonq/lery ; but 
 " alfo afforded cccafion of reformation, to many that 
 " lived at a dijlance ; to whom the fame of her in- 
 " tegrity and virtue was brought. By her own ex- 
 e{ ample i Jtjs admonijhed all pcrfons to fcrve God 
 '" dutifully , while in perfect health ; and likewife to 
 *' praife and humbly to return him thanks, when ' 
 " under any adverfity, or bodily injirmity. Her 
 * 4 life, was a light of example, to all that defired to 
 " live well. She died A. D. 680, aged 66, hav- 
 "ing lived 33 years moji nobly and royally, in a 
 "fecular habit." The remainder of her days 
 were devoted to religion in a monaflic life ! 
 
 A FORMER erroneous infcription in the church 
 of Hacknefs, has been obliterated, which import- 
 ed that the prefent building was erected by St. 
 Hilda, A. D. 680, and dedicated to St. Mary. 
 
 That
 
 ( '37 ) 
 
 That this miftake might ftand corrected, the fol- 
 lowhig is now infcribed on the chancel wall. 
 
 "ANNO DOMINI 679. The Lady Hilda, of royal 
 defcent, foundrefs of Streanlhall, otherwife 
 \Vhitby Abbey, did for the fake of fecurity, and 
 retirement, eftablifh a nunnery or cell, for eight 
 nuns at Hacknefs !" 
 
 ANNO DOMINI, 1088, fay. the records of 
 Whitby. Thieves and robbers " coming out of 
 " the forefts, and dens, where they lurked, car- 
 " ried away all the monks fubftance, and laid 
 " that holy place (the Abbey) defolate. In like 
 " manner pirates, void of all companion, landing 
 " there, came and plundered the monaftery." 
 
 " THE Monks and Serlo, then Prior, fliewed 
 lf their calamity and mifery to William de Percy, 
 " (brother to Serlo), praying him to give them a 
 " place at Hacknefs, where they might conftruct 
 " a monaftery, as alfo the Abbefs St. Hilda had 
 " formerly. Here they began to erect a monaf- 
 " tery near the church of St. Mary, in that 
 " town where they remained." 
 
 AND in the Abbey of Whitby 's book, the fol- 
 lowing note of the poflcfTions belonging to that 
 Abbey is found. " The town of HachaneJJe^ and 
 " the two mills and the church of St. Mary, in the 
 " fame town, alfo the church of Si. Peter, where 
 " our monks fer-ve God, die and are buried." 
 
 Vide Charleton's hiftory of Whitby. 
 
 N. B,
 
 ( 133') 
 
 c N. B. ECTON (Liber, Val.) calls this church 
 ' St. Peter's ; as doth the inftrument of endow* 
 ' ment of Harwood Dale chapel ; therein called 
 
 * capella St. Margarettse, in parocha St. Petri de 
 
 * Hacknefs.' 
 
 HACKNESS, and its appendant villages, or 
 townfhips, are now the property of the Marquis 
 of Annandale, whofe brother and heir, to this, 
 as well as feveral other confiderable eftates, is 
 Richard Bempde Johnftone, Efq; a gentleman of 
 finimed education, and a foldier of honour, 
 who, from imperfect health, has a long time been 
 obliged,(relu6hmtly)to decline, almoft every other 
 purfuit, but that of recovering it. 
 
 THE etymology and derivation of this place 
 has been varioufly defcribed, and with all the 
 gravity of antiquarian precilion ; the place de- 
 clared to be named Hacknefs, from Hac tenus^ as 
 being the ne plus ultra on that fide, of fuch pof- 
 feflions as the Abbey of Whitby was then en- 
 dow'd with. 
 
 OTHERS maintain its derivation from Hawks 
 Nejt) in confequence of the great numbers of 
 hawks, which, (when the woods were much 
 more majeftic and extenlive) chofe to build their 
 nefts among them j for the fake, (no doubt,) of 
 giving a proper etymology to fo fandified a 
 village ! 
 
 UPON
 
 t 139 ) 
 
 UPON parallel, and equally authentic grounds 4 
 the etymology of Archimedes^ Eucalegon, Achilles^ 
 and Alexander the Great, were dilcovered by Dr. 
 Swift, to have been derived from " bark'e maids! 
 
 " You call again! A kill eafe^ and, 
 
 " All eggs under the grate /*' 
 
 THAT Hacknefs may be vifited to advantage, 
 this little tour mould be compleated by ap- 
 proaching, in the ufual carriage road up Hay 
 Brow Hill ; and returning, through Everley, 
 whence the gradations of fcene, and abundant 
 variety of landfcape, will make full amends for 
 the impertinence of a multiplicity of gates, with 
 which the paffenger muft neceffarily be inter- 
 rupted. 
 
 THERE are two roads, which lead directiy 
 Weft from Hacknefs, either of them pleafant, to 
 diverfify a morning's ride. One -a lane, conti- 
 nuing from the North iide of the church, con- 
 duds to a farm about a mile off; from \yhepce, 
 turning to the right hand, and afcending the 
 moor, you have a good horfe way, towards the 
 Beacon Hill ; and by riding in a direction to- 
 wards Scarbrough, it is hardly po&ble to mifs a 
 fufficiently good road to it, every way leading 
 thitherward. 
 
 THE fecond, and by far the moft entertaining, 
 paffes \Veftward from Hacknefs public houfe ft 
 It branches at the fourth gate ; one road leading 
 
 140
 
 up the hill to Broxey village, where the ftranger 
 will be readily directed on, to the moor ; when 
 there, he has only to turn towards the Eaft, and 
 following that direction, will necelfarily be 
 brought in fight of Scarbrough, whither he may 
 lhape his courfe, by any one of the converging 
 roads. 
 
 THE main branch of the road way, before you 
 akend the hill to Broxey, leads acrofs the Der- 
 went, and by a romantic lane, to fome ftragling 
 houfes, diftinguilhed by the names of Ouden, and 
 Bickley. Though this is both a flickered* and 
 pleafant ride, it is attended with the inconveni- 
 ence of returning the exact fame way whereby 
 you arrived at it. Yet even under that circum- 
 ftance, it is fairly worth the vifit. 
 
 WE will conclude the article of Hacknefs with 
 the following very fingular anecdote : 
 
 ABOUT the year 1600, a young gentleman, 
 then proprietor of Rufton, conceived an unac- 
 countable, as well as unjuftifiable attachment, for 
 Lady Margaret, the wife of Sir Thomas Poft- 
 humous Hobby, to whom Hacknefs at that time 
 belonged. 
 
 HER ladyfhip was now married to her third 
 hulband ; a gentleman of her own age, which, at 
 leaft, was then pafled the frolicfome may-day of 
 youth. The lady's character was altogether ex- 
 emplary j
 
 emplary ; and it is, therefore, the more difficult 
 to aflign the probable grounds, on which the 
 young gentleman could hope to fucceed, in any 
 criminal propofal. 
 
 WHETHER, when inflamed -by liquor, it was 
 fudcienlyflarted as a matter of frolic ; or a more 
 premeditated fcheme was then thought ripe for 
 execution j certain it is, that this young gentle- 
 man, accompanied by an intimate friend, deter- 
 mined to vifit Lady Hobby, and folicit her fa- 
 vor, while Sir Thomas wn$ abfent from Hack- 
 nefs. 
 
 IT was in the afternoon of a fummer's day, 
 when they arrived at Sir Thomas's ; where, be- 
 ing well known, they were admitted with the 
 ufual civility and refpect, 
 
 TH E young gentleman took an early opportu- 
 nity to make his overtures, while his friend re- 
 tired to guard the door. 
 
 LADY Hobby, exceedingly intimidated at her 
 fituation, and offended by their behaviour, re- 
 fented the indignity ; and endeavoured, by 
 alarming her houfchold, to obtain their pro- 
 tection. 
 
 EXASPERATED at a difappomtment and repulfe 
 fo public, and Ib difgraceful, the riotous young 
 men behaved with extraordinary violence; as 
 
 well
 
 well towards the lady lierfclf, as in oppofmg her 
 domeftics ; but being at length overpowered, 
 and forced to retreat, they flill reftifed to defift 
 and retire ; but in the madnefs of their rage, 
 did every mifchief their paffion could fuggeft ; 
 and among other acts of violence, broke down 
 fome part of the garden fences, 
 
 A SERIOUS profecution at law was immedi- 
 ately commenced by Sir Thomas, on his return; 
 and he, befides, threatened, perfonally complain- 
 ing of the outrage, to Queen Elizabeth, who 
 was that gentleman's godmother. 
 
 HER Majefty, excluiive of whatever goodwill 
 {he might entertain for the fon of her former 
 Embafiador, at Paris, (for fuch was Sir Thomas) 
 poffefled an hereditary vehemence of temper, 
 and fuch rigid notions of a chafte life, as might 
 prove feverely unfavourable, to the conduct of 
 thefe wild young gentlemen, 
 
 THE affair bore by far too ferious an afpect, 
 to be lightly confidered. The offenders were 
 brought to proper reflection ; and in confe- 
 quence, after due acknowledgment, and fub- 
 jniffions, it was agreed, Sir Thomas mould ac- 
 cept a right for all forts of cattle belonging to 
 him, or his tenants, to depafture on certain ex- 
 teniive neighbouring commons ; and an annual 
 money payment of 70!. a year, to him and his 
 
 afligns." This is now regularly received by 
 
 the
 
 the prefent poffeflbr of Hacknefs manor and 
 eflate.- 
 
 RAINCLIFF WOOD. 
 
 THE accurate Mr. Pennant, obferves, that 
 " this coaft of the kingdom is very unfa- 
 " vourable for trees, and there is a vaft naked- 
 " nefs, from the Humber, as far as the extre- 
 " mity of Caithnefs, with a very few excep- 
 " tions." This wood of Raincliff may be fairly 
 enumerated as one of them ; and the more fin- 
 gularly remarkable for its unprotected afpect. 
 Notwithstanding which, it produces many timber 
 trees ; chiefly Oaks, of as large growth as the 
 foil and climate will admit, even in our warmeft 
 rallies. It is the largeft, and, in every refpecl, 
 the moft confiderable wood, in the neighbour- 
 hood of Scarbrough. Through it there may be 
 taken, in the dry feafon of the year, as delight* 
 ful a ride, by way of airing, as any we know. 
 It muft, however, be prcmifed, that it is feldom 
 practicable but on horieback, on account of deep, 
 and miry fpots, which are cut in by the heavy 
 laden wood carriages. 
 
 THE road to RainclifF, is the fame as to Hack, 
 nefs, until you arrive exactly oppofite Scalby 
 
 village j
 
 ( 144 ) 
 
 village ; where two roads very near each other, 
 on the left or South fide, branch off, up the hill. 
 The firft leads to Throftenby ; the fecond, to the 
 wood itfelf, which covers the North Weft lide 
 of Seamer moor hill. You enter it by a gate on 
 the right hand ; follow the road ftraight along 
 the bottom of the wood, for about half a mile, 
 where two roads meet ; purfue that to the left, 
 which leads to an exceeding romantic fituation, 
 where a fmall iron foundery is built (and neg- 
 lected;) from thence you go on to Ay ton village, 
 and return for Scarbrough, either by the turn- 
 pike road, you fall into by riding ftraight on, or, 
 which is far pleafanter, through the back part 
 of Seamer moor heath, to the race-ground. 
 
 B.UT, the variety of ground through which 
 you pafs, in making this little tour, is in itfelf 
 abundantly entertaining. The quick fuccefTion 
 of greatly diffimilar, contra/led views, almoft 
 every one beautiful in its kind, may for the ef- 
 fect of the whole, hardly be rivalled within fo 
 fmall a circle. With perfons of tafte for land- 
 fcape, it would fuffer by dcfcription, and to 
 others it may be fufficient, that we generally ob- 
 ierve, it confifts of nearly every fort of woody 
 icene. A fmall river, over hung with branching 
 ftirubs, and fpiry alders; rolls its winding courfe, 
 rippling along, at the foot of high fteep cliffs, 
 thick fet with wood, 
 
 IT
 
 It after colle&s its waters more in view, 
 and forming a glafly furface, fpreads a broad 
 ftream, meandring through opener ground, to- 
 wards the pichirefque looking village of Ay ton, 
 adorned by a handfome modern bridge, which is 
 contrafted by an antient ruin, all happily fo 
 placed, as if by delign, gradually to furprife and 
 entertain the ftranger. 
 
 ON afcending a fmall rocky {beep, to Ay ton, 
 the fcenery of a grand opening, and wide ex- 
 tended valley, (bounded by diftant mountains) is 
 foon changed for a dreary heath,-^-leading to a 
 magnificent commanding view of Scarbrough, 
 its neighbouring villages, andthevaft expance of 
 fea; which together, form one of the moft beau- 
 tiful maps, that can be feen fpread, and coloured 
 by the luxuriant hand of nature ! 
 
 THAT this laft part of the profpecT:, may be 
 feen to full advantage, keep your way in a direct 
 line, following the principal road over the moor, 
 to its edge ; and then, continuing along that 
 edge, towards the race-ground, you are led into 
 the immediate turnpike road for Scarbrough. 
 
 FOR variety, and if a fteep rough hill does not 
 deter, defcend by a narrow opening lane, in front 
 of the new-made road from Ayton, which con- 
 veys you back towards Scalby, by the fame gate 
 you firft entered Rain cliff \vood v 
 
 K IT
 
 IT is a pleafure for many gentlemen of tafte, 
 when in a region they have not vifited before to 
 take exploring rides, in purfuit of new objects 
 flickered roads, perhaps, or diverfified country ; 
 to inform themfelves of the cultivation, and gra- 
 tify any other curioiity of the moment. It 
 might be anticipating nay, deftroying fuch 
 amufement, were we over particular in defcrib- 
 ing every path-way for their rides, with minute 
 exactnefs. We ihall therefore be rather gene- 
 ral, in the little tours, and cxcurfions, which 
 
 we may have occafion to name but before 
 
 we proceed, it may be obferved, that this fine 
 
 wood of RainclifF Ayton village, and a 
 
 large portion of the great valley, with the Wold 
 hills which bound it, as well as Semar, its moor, 
 and race-ground, are the fole property of that; 
 moft princely, benevolent, and affable nobleman, 
 THOMAS, DUKE of LEEDS. 
 
 AN agreeable excurfion by way of ride, and 
 different, widely fo, from thofe already named, 
 is by the Semar road, which turns off at Waif- 
 grave, to the left, (Eaftward), and conveys you 
 through a narrow valley, by the mar, meer, or 
 fmall lake, which fupplies Scarbrough mills with 
 water. This mar, is the property of the cor- 
 poration : Its waters are mallow and fo over- 
 grown with reeds, as in moft parts of it to be in- 
 ilabilis tellus, innabilis unda. 
 
 IT
 
 ( H7 ) 
 
 IT is neverthelefs tolerably ftocked with Perch, 
 Pike, and Eels, but neither of them famed for 
 excellence in their kind. The road continues up 
 the hill, and leading through the village of Se- 
 mar, (which, with its environs, is part of the 
 Duke of Leeds's domain) goes to Driffield, Hull, 
 &c. About Semar, turning Eaftward, feveral 
 pleafant, and fome well protected fhady lanes, in- 
 vite the wanderer to explore them, an invita- 
 tion that may be repeatedly, and with fatisfaction 
 accepted. 
 
 VARIED amufement is the foul of pleafurable 
 life ; and a reliih for more refined aflemblies, 
 may be heightened by temporary excurlions, 
 amidft fimple and ruftic entertainments; what is 
 called a rough party, to take chances for fuch 
 provifions as may be gotten, has often filled up 
 many a day, fpent in country rambles, with 
 abundant gratification, and chearfulnefs ! The 
 little adventures one unexpectedly meets with ; 
 the occafional call for activity and contrivance, to 
 fupply, perhaps, imaginary exigencies ; and 
 above all, the general fyftem of unreferved good 
 humour, adopted by moft parties on thefe ex- 
 curfions, make even the remembrance of them 
 agreeable. Many fuch trips have, in good wea- 
 ther, been made by the jovially inclined, among 
 the company, as well to other rural or amufmg 
 fpots, as to Filey, nine miles from Scarbrough. 
 
 K 2 FILEY
 
 is a fmall fifhing town, fituated on tne 
 banks of a noble bay for fifh, but a dangerous one 
 for {hipping. Its fandy beach is beautifully ex- 
 tenlive, forming a large fegment of a circle, and 
 furrounded by high perpendicular cliffs. At the 
 eafternmoft extremity, the filiation, land, and 
 ridge of rocks, \vhich run a confidera-ble way into 
 the fca, is imagined greatly to vefemble Tangier, 
 in Africa, and its famous mole ; once a part of 
 the Britifh territory ; where Sir Hugh Cholmley, 
 fon of that brave and diftinguifhed gentleman 
 who defended Scarbrough Caftle, againft the Par- 
 liament forces, was governor. He was alfo com- 
 miflioner for building its vaft mole, during the 
 fpace of five years ; that employ was, however, 
 a rock, on which many reputations for honefty, 
 were fhipwrecked, (though his efcaped it with 
 honour,) and fo unproihably expenfive alfo to 
 the nation, from a moal water, that the place 
 was at length totally abandoned; though de- 
 lightfully fituated ; its neighbourhood fertile, 
 and its temperature the moft cool, and pleafant, 
 in all Africa ! 
 
 TH E road to Filey, mould be pointed out by 
 fome attendant guide, who may direct without 
 the dull repetition of turnings, and windings on 
 paper. It affords a novel, and flriking exhibition 
 of the hoarfe rough fea, as it lames the founding 
 more, at the foot of thofe cliffs, you paTs very near 
 the brink of ! There is a competently good vil- 
 lage
 
 lags inn at Filey, where a party of gentlemen and 
 ladies may be very tolerably accommodated but 
 it will be always expedient to lend orders a day 
 or two before, by which means you may be fure 
 of at leaft, excellent mutton, and plenty of fi{h. 
 
 ON pafling thither, your guide may be afked 
 to point out the road to a farm, called Spittal 
 houfe, formerly the nte of an Hofpital ; or houfe 
 of melter for benighted travellers, which was 
 founded in the days of the King Athelftan, to 
 protect them, and their cattle, from being de- 
 voured by the wolves ; which then abounded in 
 this country, and were numerous in much later 
 days- 
 
 'WE find in the Abbey accounts of Whitby, 
 anno 1396, an article charged to the community 
 in thefe words : pro, te*x'h2g XIV. pellium luporwu^ 
 o/. is. gd. i. e. for dreffing (or rendering fup- 
 ple) 1 4 fkins of Wolves ; which were a kind of 
 cheap furs, then in ufe, rather for warmth than 
 oltentation. Item, pro I rctc pro feris o/. 6s, Sd. 
 (for one net to take wild beafts ;) Wolves and 
 Boars, being at that time fo dangeroufly abun- 
 dant, that in feveral fituations, Wolf-Dogs were 
 kept to attend, and guard travellers, from the 
 favage attacks of thofe animals. Certain fums 
 of money are to this hour charged on, and paid 
 by divers eftates, to the Lords of Manors, for 
 feeding fuch wolf-dogs, as public fcfe-guards ; 
 
 3 Stenton
 
 Stenton-Dale ftill preferves the memory of fuch 
 cuftom, and a money payment is now faid to be 
 allowed at Foxholes^ under that claim. 
 
 THE woodlefs ftate of this region, even in the 
 prefent days of more numerous population, and 
 greater improvement, may feem an obftacle to 
 the belief, that fuch numbers of favage animals, 
 could ever have been fufficiently harboured, and 
 concealed here ; but tho' woods are exceedingly 
 rare, and feem always to have been fo, from the 
 nature of the country, the moft comfortable 
 natural defences, and hiding places, till very 
 lately, abounded, for beafts either of the chace, 
 or prey. 
 
 LARGE tracts were over-grown with furze, in- 
 termixed with birch trees, protecting each other, 
 and a numerous progeny of Hares, Boars, 
 Wolves, Rabbits, and Foxes, from the feverity 
 of piercing Winter ftorms. Thofe are now de- 
 x ftroyed, by the continual demand for fuel ; or 
 eMe kept under, by annual burnings in the month 
 of March. 
 
 THE fifhery at Filey bay, to, a certain extent 
 from the land, belongs to Humphry Ofbaldefton, 
 Efq; of Hunmanby, which he referves for his 
 own, and friends amufement. It abounds with 
 many forts of fifh ; among them, fmall Turbot, 
 but numeious large, and remarkably fine Soles, 
 which are taken either by the trawl, or hawl-
 
 ing a feine or drag net. The afpecb of the 
 coaft, the fifhing bufinefs, and an examination of 
 its ftrand, generally amufe as many hours as 
 ftrangers, who mean to return in the evening, 
 wifh to employ, rambling from their inn ; > 
 whence they may be conveyed home, in time for 
 the rooms, if fo difpofed ; though ufually fo per- 
 fectly fatisfied \vith their exercife, in this furvey 
 of the coaft, as to relim a fnug party at home, 
 and an early retreat. 
 
 ROBIN HOOD's BAY. 
 
 TO the N. E. of Scarbrough, diftant 1 3 miles 
 and a half. It is a fifhing town often vifited 
 by ftrangers, attracted by the fame of its Alum 
 Works, and the curiofity of its grotefque appear- 
 ance j it is the habitation of numerous fifhermen, 
 
 and their wives, with SWARMS of children. 
 
 Whether the healthinefs of the profeflion itfelf, 
 or their ordinary diet, which is fifh, be the ef- 
 ficient caufe of their abundant fertility, natura- 
 lifts and philofophers, muft determine ; but it is 
 a univerfal remark, that fifhermen have propor- 
 tionably, more children, than any other defcrip- 
 tion of perfons among us. One fpecies of food, 
 they themfelves partly attribute it to, and that is, 
 fait fifh ; but moft ef^ecially dried Scate, which for 
 
 K 4 reafons
 
 reafons we leave others to explain, goes by the 
 name of merry meat. 
 
 TH E quantity of thefe forts of fifh which are 
 dried at Robin Hood's Bay, as well for home 
 consumption, as exportation is furprizing. The 
 fronts of the houfes, are often hung therewith, 
 and the neighbouring paddocks, covered by them, 
 as they are fpread to dry. Pofiibly the number 
 in this part of the world is fmall of thofe whofe 
 tafte agrees,in otherpoints alfo, with King James I. 
 If, faid he, " I was to invite the devil to take 
 " a dinner with me, I would have three dimes; 
 " firft, a Pig ; fecond, a fah poll of Ling, and 
 " muftard; third, apipe of Tobacco for digeftion!" 
 
 THE Scate, which is dried without fait, only 
 fcy the wind and fun, forms a part of victualling 
 for the Eaft -India Company's mips, it being lefs 
 liable to corrupt and decay, than fait fiih, in hot 
 climates ; and is moreover faid to contain abun- 
 dance of nourifhment, without being either hard 
 of digeftion, or apt to breed the fcurvy. It alfo 
 is much in ufe during the winter months, among 
 people of various denominations, in this country. 
 FISH and POTATOES being by many deemed 
 (coaftwife) the ftaff of Yorkfhire life ! 
 
 A PERSON well acquainted with the road, is 
 indifpenflble for conducting you to this place. It 
 is by no means a good carriage way ; therefore, 
 and from its diftance, as beyond the reach of an 
 
 airing
 
 airing on horfeback for ladies, is ufually vifited 
 by gentlemen only. On previous notice, fifli, 
 often very fine Turbot, may be fupplied at the 
 inn ; but as the market is neither exquifite, nor 
 held oftner than once a week, you have an indif- 
 ferent chance, unlefs fomething be fent on, or 
 conveyed with you. To manage, if poffible, fo 
 as to be prefent when the fifhing boats come in, 
 is entertaining. In good weather, it may be al- 
 moft deemed a fifli fair ; but the view on reach- 
 ing the fummit of thq mountain, above the alum- 
 works, is altogether noble. Its height is great, 
 and the defcent, which is generally preferred on 
 foot, long and tedious ; Mr. Pennant's account 
 
 of thefe alum works is fo concifc, and fatisfac- 
 
 1 
 
 tory, that we mail beg leave to tranfcribe it for 
 the information of the curious, who may not 
 
 have feen it in his tour. " Obferved the vail 
 
 44 mountains of alum ftone, from which that fait 
 4f is thus extracted ; 
 
 44 IT is firft calcined in great heap;, which con- 
 " tinue burning by its own phlogrfton, after being 
 " well fet on fire by coals, for lix, ten, or four- 
 44 teen months, according to the iizc of the heap, 
 44 fome being equal to a fimll hill. It is then 
 44 thrown into pits and ftecped in water, to ex- 
 " tract all the faline particles. The liquor is then 
 4: run into pits where the vitriolic (alls are preci- 
 44 pitated by the addition of a folution of the fal 
 " fodae prepared from kelp, or by the volatile 
 44 alkali of ftale urine. The fuperfhjpus water be-
 
 ( 154 ) 
 
 " ing then evaporated duly by boiling in large 
 " furnaces, the liquor is fet to cool ; and laftly, 
 " after criftalizing in large citterns, is packed in 
 " calks for fale. 
 
 " THE alum-works, continues Mr. Pennant, 
 " of this country, are of fome antiquity they 
 " were firft difcovered by Sir Thomas Chaloner, 
 " in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who found 
 " that the ftrata here abounded with aluminous 
 " fait. At that time the Englifh being ftranger's 
 " to the method of managing it, there is a tradi* 
 " tioh that Sir Thomas was obliged to feduce 
 " fome workmen from the Pope's alum works 
 " near Rome, then the greateft in Europe.'* 
 Vide this matter more copioufly treated of by 
 Mr. Charleton, in his hiftory of Whitby. 
 
 THE interior alum works, are well worth fee- 
 ing ; and to trace the prpcefs above defcribed, 
 will fix it laftingly in the recollection. We do not 
 recommend the effluvia perceptible on entering 
 the boiling houfe, for its delicioufnefs ; but there 
 being nothing in the fmalleft degree noxious, it 
 may be guarded againft very fufficiently, by fill-. * 
 ing the noftrils with a little tobacco. 
 
 THE paffage from the works, to the village, is 
 along the beach ; which at certain times is rm- 
 paffable, from the flowing in of the tide : nor is 
 it reckoned fafe to attempt it, unlefs there be a 
 
 wide
 
 ( 155 ) 
 
 wide fpace of fand uncovered by the water, or 
 elfe the tide is ebbing. 
 
 THE diftance from' Robin Hood's Bay, to 
 Whitby, is fix miles and three quarters. 
 
 4 WHITBY affords another excurfion, that per- 
 fons of curiofity will think amufmg ; efpecially 
 foon after the Greenland mips return from the 
 Whale Fiftiery. Its neighbourhood with Robin 
 Hood's Bay, may be an inducement to proceed 
 from thence, and fleep at Whitby ; by which 
 means, its principal objects of notice, may be 
 viewed in the morning, and the return to Scar- 
 brough, over the moors, effected in time for a 
 late dinner at home. 
 
 WIIITBY is a confiderable town ; and of late 
 growing into a degree of opulence, by the abun- 
 dant fuccefs of its Whale Fifliery.* They build 
 many large, and good mips, as well as handfome 
 ones ; chiefly for the Greenland, and fojne for 
 the coal trade. In war time, it fuppiies an ample 
 proportion of the tranfports, ufed in Government 
 fervice. The foetid, as well as appearance viinduftry^ 
 is here very diftinguimabk ; and the firft view of 
 the town, altogether refpectable. Houfes, and 
 mips, are in the lower part of it, intimately and 
 pleafantly blended : The upper buildings, oddly 
 enough iltuated on the two fides of a hill, di- 
 vided 
 
 * In which it has largely embarked, having this year 1787, ftnt 
 20 fail of (hips on that employ, navigated by nine hundred per- 
 fons, aud amounting to 6000 tuas in burthen.
 
 vided by the fmall river Efk ; which however, 
 by the intervention of the fea, forms a copious 
 jnud-harbour, at the back part of the town, 
 where a number of veffels of various dimen- 
 lions, lay in fafety among its ouze. An ample 
 draw-bridge, through which veffels of 600 tons 
 may pafs, joins the two fides of the town, and 
 leads to the Angel, and Golden Lion Inns, re- 
 puted the two beft in the place. 
 
 THE Weft fide of the town appears to be in- 
 habited by principal citizens; and many of them 
 having increafed their poffefiions, chofe alfo to 
 enlarge their habitations ; which the narrownefs 
 of the ftreets, rendering inconvenient, within 
 the town, they have built a row of handfome, 
 and fome of them elegant houfes, on the flope 
 of the hill above it, which front the South, and 
 are very pleafantly fituated. From thefe, there 
 is a diftant view of Mulgrave Caftle, the feat of 
 a Nobleman, and an OFFICER, ever moft 
 efteemed, where beft known ! Whofe public 
 conduct, has been uniformly ilrenuous in the fer.- 
 vice of his King, and Country, and is therefore 
 cordially applauded by the true friends of either ; 
 many alfo have been his lordfiiip's amiable exer- 
 tions, to obtain a reward for neglected friendlefs 
 merit, or the relief of filent neceffity, (whether 
 in the maritime, or civil line,) and it mould be 
 svery where known, that fucii arc among his 
 REAL virtues ! 
 
 THJJ
 
 ( '57 ) 
 
 THE Bafon towards the fea, and Pier, are 
 noble-'-and bleak ; as is the fite of the parifh. 
 church, and the ruins of St. Hilda's Abbey. 
 The pariih church is worth vifiting, both ori 
 account of its monuments in the chancel, and 
 the curious bee-hive flile, of erecting feats, and 
 galleries, to accommodate the numerous congre- 
 gation which frequent it I Of the Abbey, a ge- 
 neral account is elfewhere given, and we muft 
 here refer the traveller to his own tafte, and 
 judgment, for any opinion concerning its vene- 
 rable remains. 
 
 NEAR them is the deferted manfion of Na- 
 thaniel Cholmley, Efq; the lite of the once fa- 
 mous monailery, originally founded by St. 
 Hilda. It may much rather be regretted by the 
 neighbourhood, than wondered at by a ftranger, 
 that fuch a manfion, fo fituated, mould be de- 
 ferted ; efpecially when it is confidered, that 
 that^gentleman inhabits at prefent an elegant 
 hall-houfe, delightfully, as well as warmly fitu- 
 ated, in the near neighbourhood of York. Mr. 
 Cholmley is both of the fame name and famUy 
 witii Sir Hugh, who with fo much gallantry de- 
 fended Scarbrough Caftle in the civil wars. 
 Among the many honourable characteriftics of 
 this family, is that of having almoft constantly, 
 devoted one of its branches to the fervice of the 
 public, in the military line ; where their cou- 
 rage, and loyalty, were always approved. The 
 
 prefent
 
 ( '58 ) 
 
 prefent gentleman was himfelf feverely wounded 
 at the battle of Fontenoy; and it cannot be with 
 more truth declared of the Lucas family, than of 
 the Cholmleys, that " in their defcent they are ho- 
 nourable^ for all the daughters were virtuous^ and all 
 the fans were brave !" 
 
 FOR the fake of variety, efpecially to any 
 ftranger from the South, it may be advifable to 
 return for Scarbrough over the moors. A plain 
 road, though not the fmootheft, leads directly 
 thither. The difmal ruflet covering of ling and 
 heath, fpread over the moors, either affords, or 
 protects, juft nourifhment fufficient to preferve a 
 diminutive, but excellent breed of fheep. For- 
 merly the South and flickered fides of abund- 
 ance of its eminencies, as well as vales, were 
 grown over with furze or winn, many feet in 
 height, and of wide extent. Thefe harboured 
 the wild boars and wolves, fo often fpoken of in 
 the old accounts of this diftrict. 
 
 THE following very extraordinary tale, which 
 arofe from hunting the boar in this neighbour- 
 hood, has been long received as authentic, and 
 circulated ^accordingly : We prefent a correct 
 copy of it, as a local anecdote for the amufe- 
 ment of our readers. 
 
 " A true account of the murder of the Monk 
 of Whitby, by William de Bruce, Lord of Ug- 
 glebarnby j Ralph de Percy, Lord of Sneaton ; 
 
 and
 
 ( '59 ) 
 
 and Allatfon, a freeholder ; with the Monk's 
 penance laid on them, to be performed on Af- 
 cenlion-Eve every year ; otherwife to forfeit 
 their lands to the Abbot of Whitby. 
 
 " IN the 5th year of the reign of Henry II. after 
 the Conqueft of England by William Duke of 
 Normandy, the Lord of Ugglebarnby, then 
 called William de Bruce ; the Lord of Sneaton, 
 called Ralph de Percy ; with a gentleman and 
 freeholder, called Allatfon, did on the i6th of 
 October 1159, appoint to meet and hunt the 
 wild boar in a certain wood, or defart place, 
 belonging to the Abbot of Whitby ; the place's 
 name was Efkdale-fide, and the Abbot's name 
 was Sedman. Then thefe gentlemen being met, 
 with their hounds and boar-ftaves, in the place 
 before-mentioned, and there having found a 
 great wild boar, the hounds ran him well near 
 
 o 
 
 about the chapel and hermitage of Eikdale-lide, 
 where was a Monk of Whitby, who was an her- 
 mit. The boar being very forely purfued, and 
 dead run, took in at the chapel door, there laid 
 him down, and prefently died. The hermit 
 fhut the hounds out of the chapel, and kept 
 himfelf within at his meditations and prayers, 
 the hounds {landing at bay without. The gen- 
 tlemen, in the thick of the wood, being put be- 
 hind their game," followed the cry of their 
 hounds, and fo came- to the hermitage ; calling 
 on the hermit, who opened the door, and came 
 
 forth
 
 ( ifio ) 
 
 fortn, and within they found the boar lying 
 dead ; for which the gentlemen, in a very great 
 fury, becaufe their hounds were put from their 
 game, did moil violently and cruelly run at the 
 hermit with their boar-ftaves, whereby he foon 
 after died. Thereupon the gentlemen perceiv- 
 ing, and knowing that they were in peril of 
 death, took fanchiary at Scarbrough. But at 
 that time the Abbot being in very great favor 
 with the King, removed them out of the fano 
 tuary, whereby they came in danger of the law, 
 and not to be privileged; but likely to have the 
 feverity of the law, which Was death for death. 
 But the hermit being a holy and devout man, 
 and at the point of death, fent for the Abbot, 
 and defired him to fend for the gentlemen who 
 had wounded him. The Abbot fo doing, the 
 gentlemen came ; and the hermit being very 
 fick and weak, faid unto them, " I am fure to 
 die of thofe wounds you have given me." The 
 Abbot anfwered, " They mall as furely die for 
 the fame.'* But the hermit anfwered, " Not fo, 
 for I will freely forgive them my death, if they 
 will be content to be enjoined the penance I 
 {hall lay on them for the fafeguard of their 
 fouls.'* The gentlemen being prefent, bade him 
 but fave their lives. Then faid the hermit, " You 
 and yours {hall hold your lands of the Abbot 
 of Whitby, and his fucceffors, in this manner : 
 That upon Afcenfi on-day, you, or fome of you, 
 fhall come to the wood of the Stray-Heads, 
 
 which
 
 ( 161 ) 
 
 which is in Efkdale-fide, the fame day at fun- 
 rifmg, and there {hall the Abbot's officer blow 
 his horn, to the intent that you may know where 
 to find him ; and he fhall deliver unto you Wil- 
 liam de Bruce, i o ftakes, 1 1 ftrout ftowers, and 1 1 
 yethers, to be cut by you, or fome of you, with 
 a knife of one penny price ; and you Ralph de 
 Percy, fliall take 21 of each fort, to be cut in the 
 fame manner ; and you Allatfon, mall take 9 of 
 each fort, to be cut as aforefaid, and to be taken 
 on your backs, and carried to the town of 
 Whitby, and to be there before nine of the clock 
 the fame day before-mentioned : at the fame hour 
 of nine of the clock, if it be full fea, your labour 
 and fervice {hall ceafe : and, if low water, each 
 of you {hall fet your {lakes to the brim, each 
 {lake one yard from the other, and fo yether 
 them on with your yethers, and fo ftake on each 
 fide with your ftrout {lowers, that they may 
 {land three tides without removing by the force 
 thereof: each of you {hall do, make, and exe- 
 cute the faid fervice at that very hour, every 
 year, except it be full fea at that hour : but when 
 it {hall fo fall out, this fervice mall ceafe." 
 
 " You {hall faithfully do this, in remembrance 
 that you did moft cruelly flay me, and that you 
 may the better call to God for mercy, repent un- 
 feignedly of your fins, and do good works. The 
 officer of Elkdale-fide, {hall blow, out on you, 
 out on you, out on you, Hfor this heinous crime. 
 If you or your fucceflbrs flir.il refufe this fervice, 
 
 L fa
 
 ( 162 ) 
 
 ib long as it fhall not be full fca, at the aforefaid 
 hour, you or yours fhall forfeit your lands to the 
 Abbot of Whitby, or his fucceiTors. This I en- 
 treat, and earneflly beg, that you may have lives 
 and goods preferved for this fervice : and I re- 
 queft of you to promife by your parts in heaven, 
 that it (hall be done by you, and your fucceflbrs, 
 as is aforefaid requefted ; and I will confirm it by 
 the faith of an honeft man. " Then the hermit 
 " faid, my foul longeth for the Lord ; and I do 
 " as freely forgive thefe men my death, as Chrift 
 " forgave the thieves on the crofs." And in the 
 prefence of the Abbot and the reft, he faid more- 
 over thefe words ; 
 
 " In jjianus tuas, Domine, commcndofpiritum-memi, 
 " a vinculis enlm mortis redcmi/ii me^ Dominc vcritatis. 
 " Amen*:' 
 
 " So he yielded up the ghoft, the 8th day of 
 December, anno domini, 1159, whofe foul God 
 have mercy on. Amen." 
 
 MR.Charleton, in his hiftory of Whitby, bookii. 
 pages 127, on to 131, has accurately invefti- 
 gated this legend, which he proves to have been 
 a forgery. The ftory, as here told, he fuppolls 
 of no higher antiquity, than the reign of 
 Henry VIII. about the time of the diilblu- 
 , tion of the monaftery. The fervice itielf, he ob- 
 
 ferves, 
 
 N * O Lord into thy hands do I commit my Soul ; for from the 
 chains of death haft thou redeemed me } O Lord of truth.
 
 Serves, was a tenure by which all the Abbey land 
 near Whitby, was, in former times, held ; but 
 by no means in confequence of any fuch murder 
 as above related. 
 
 THIS fcrvice, required with fuch extraordi- 
 nary forms, and attended with fuch peculiar cir- 
 cumftances, appears well calculated to imprint 
 the remembrance of the acknowledgement of ma- 
 norial right, to fervices due to the Abbey, from 
 the proprietor of fuch Lordfhip. It is at the 
 fame time a proof, that the monks who firft in- 
 ftituted the fervice, were neither ignorant, or un- 
 obferving; fmce it was exacted at the only feafon, 
 when no tide water, can ever reach the line where 
 this hedge is to be fet up, during the three tides, 
 it is required to (land. 
 
 AT the diffomtion of the monaftery, it appears 
 (fays Mr. Charleton) four vaflals only, held eftates 
 under the Abbot, who were bound to this fer- 
 vice. In thefe our days, only one vaflkl remains 
 who continues to make, up a fmall part of the 
 horn garth, or penny hedge, contiguous to the 
 river Efk, on account of two oxgangs of land, 
 that he pofTefTes in Fyling Dales. This land is 
 now the property of a freeholder, called Herbert, 
 who ftill continues, every Holy Thurfday even, 
 to perform this cuftomary fervice for the fame. 
 
 HORRID, as the leaflefs moors, and their ini- 
 ferable boggy foil, may appear to vilitors from 
 
 L 3 the
 
 the South, at this feafon ; let them but figure 
 what it muft be, when covered, as they often are, 
 by deep fnows, for a length of time ! The drea- 
 rinefs, the danger, and the misfortunes, which 
 too frequently have taken place here, are power- 
 fully impreffed on the minds of thofe who from 
 their neighbourhood, or experience, know them 
 to be real. 
 
 IN the very laft great fnows, difmal accidents 
 have taken place, not without fatality ! A poor 
 cottager, difficultly efcaped with life, but the 
 lofs of health ; in his own parifh, and near his 
 own little dwelling, at Harwood Dale ; a dealer, 
 in quills, from Durham, with his wife, travelling 
 , between Scarbrough and Whitby, were loft; lay- 
 ing all night, and part of a day, on the fnow, 
 they were hardly recovered. The man and wo- 
 man to this hour, both cripples, by mortification 
 in their feet, through which they loft every toe. 
 
 Two poor failors, returning on foot to their 
 friends at Scarbrough, exhaufted with fatigue, 
 and uncertain which way to ihape their courfe, 
 funk benumbed in the fnow, near Stenton Dale. 
 After many hours, one, fo far recovered, as by his 
 utmoft exertion, to reach a cottage, from whence 
 afliftance was immediately fent to the remaining 
 unhappy man ; but alas too late ! The fine 
 and affecting defcription of fuch a fcene^ by the 
 poet, is little more than the well told tale, of what 
 has here been felt : 
 
 "The
 
 l " The fnows arife, and foul and fierce, 
 
 *' All Winter drives along the darkened air ; 
 
 The fwain ; 
 
 *' Nor finds the river, nor the road- ivaj, hid 
 *' Beneath the formlefs wild, but wanders on 
 " From hill to dale, flill more and more aftrav, 
 " Impatient, flouncing through the drifted heaps ; 
 " Stuig with the thoughts of home ; the thoughts of home 
 " Ruffi on his nerves, and call their vigour forth, 
 " In many a vain attempt ! 
 " He meets the roughnefs of the middle wafte, 
 " Far from the track and blefs'd abode of man, 
 " While round him, night refiftlefs clofes fafl ; ; 
 " And every ternpeft howling o'er his head, 
 " Renders the favage wildemefs more wild ! 
 
 " Faithlefs bogs, precipices huge, 
 
 " Smoothed up with fnow ; and what is land unknown I 
 " Thefe check his fearful fteps, and down he finks 
 " Beneath the fhelter of the fliapelefs drift! 
 " In vain for him the ofiScious wife prepares 
 
 " The fire fair blazing, and the veftment warm ; 
 
 " In vain his little children, peeping out 
 
 " Into the mingling ftorm, demand their fire 
 
 " With tears of artlefs innocence ; alas ! 
 
 ' Kor wife, nor children, more mail he behold; 
 
 " Nor friends, nor facred home ! 
 
 " =-Ah ! little think the gay licentious crowd, 
 
 " Whom pleafure, power^ and affluence furround ; 
 
 " They who their thoughtfcfs hoars, in giddy mirth 
 
 " And wanton riot wafte ; 
 
 " Ah, little think they, while they fport along, 
 
 *' How many feel this very death !" 
 
 THOMSON. 
 
 APPENDIX.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 A VENERABLE father of the antient church, 
 (Tertullian) carried his notions of fclf-de- 
 nial, and mortification, as well as his beard, to 
 an uncommon length ; which laft, having been 
 the fubjecl: of remark, he infifted with great 
 warmth, by way of excufe, that " Jha<uing <was a 
 lie againjl our own faces, and an impious attempt t& 
 improve the works of the Creator" How extremely 
 would the good old gentleman have been, ama- 
 2ed, to fee, notwithstanding all his pious remon- 
 ftrances, a lady's hair well drefs'd, a la gorgon 
 for the ball : a Lord Chancellor, in his locks of 
 Hate ; or the tete en vergette, bien poudree, of 
 
 a fmooth chin'd beau ! Yet fince to be either 
 
 charming, or even decent^ it is now requifite 
 every body fliould have their heads well covered 
 with very line flour, the profeflbrs of the 
 dully art, are become indifpenfibly neceffary ; 
 and without a hair-drcffer, as well as muiicians, 
 there can be no ball. Happily, of either, there 
 is no want at Scarbrough: but both refident 
 artifts, and emigrants of great djftinftion and
 
 - 
 
 fanu\ cofldefcend to leave the metropolis, and 
 viiit this place, (only during the recefs of Par- 
 Hament) \vho are always at the ladies and gentle- 
 
 m'ens' commands. The entire etiquette of 
 
 pomatums, is here, therefore, regulated by the 
 corporation of the comb, as much, as pofiible, 
 according to the neweft fyftem of Parifian friz- 
 zling, and London prices! 
 
 WITH refpect to the various claffes of fubor> 
 dinate afliftants, it is here, as vreil as in moft 
 public places, not unuiual to puzzle the ftranger, 
 when delirous to be informed what is expected 
 as the recornpence of their labours, with 
 
 Honor pleafes.t 
 
 This phrafe, (the language of affected modefty, 
 
 and a difpofition not to be eafily contented ; ) 
 
 in general, ligniiies liuifo to fleec? your Honor as 
 much as ever I can ! 
 
 IT is highly for the benefit of the commu- 
 nity, to have* a fair and equitable price fixed, 
 for the employment of fuch pcribns, or car- 
 riages, &c. as are immediately connected with 
 the vifitors, to places of public refort. Bath, is 
 a noble inftance of this fact; and, the authority 
 of the Corporation, and M. C. (the Parliament, 
 and as an Englifti, therefore a limited monarch 
 of the city) have prevented nurhbcfleft trouble- 
 ibrae applications, and extortions, from being 
 L 4 complained
 
 ( , 168 ) 
 
 complained of, as nuifances to the company!- 
 A regular, and moderate payment, is fixed for 
 many, attendants, &c. Thofe who have gene- 
 rous feelings, and can afford to exprefs them 
 iignificantly, will gratify the afliduous and at- 
 tentive, for any extraordinary exertions. Al- 
 tercation, and mutual difcontent, can only ac- 
 crue from arbitrary, or unreafonable demands, 
 where the ability of the valetudinarian is con- 
 tracted. Indifcriminate generoiity, bordering 
 on profufe expence, is much rather a charafter- 
 iftic of the Englrfh gentry, than nigardly difre- 
 gard of thofe who devote themfelves to their 
 fervicc. If the attentions of fubordinates have 
 
 merit, they will find favour ; and, what is in 
 
 confequence, voluntarily added to their reafon- 
 able, and fixed demand, gratifies all parties. It 
 is given, with the pleafing fenfations of true ge- 
 vneroiity; and it is received, as an honourable 
 mark of approbation. 
 
 IT fometimes is defirable for vifitor-s to be 
 'accommodated with job horfes for a carriage, 
 during their abode in Scarbrough. Several of 
 the principal inns have them to furnifli on the 
 ufual terms of London, and York, by the week 
 ; or- 'month. It does not, however, appear to be 
 fo much -their choice, as a defire to accommo- 
 date fuch as are their cuftomers, for other ar- 
 ticles. Mr. Stephens, at the New-Inn, New- 
 brough; Mrs. Temple, at the Blackfmith's-Arms, 
 ' Queen-flreet j Mrs. Yeoman, at the George, New- 
 
 brcugh j
 
 brotigh ; Mr. Croafdale, at the Bull-Inn, near 
 the town-gate; Mr. Marflet, the Blue- Bell, near 
 the Shambles ; Mr. Wilfon, at the Old Globe, 
 Stockdale-ftreet ; Mr. Revis, at the Talbot-Inn, 
 Queen-ftreet j and Mr. Hardy, at the Red-Lion, 
 in Newbrough, occafionally fupply horfcs on 
 the footing above-mentioned ; and have alfo 
 carriages to let at a moment's warning. 
 
 THERE is one only coffee-houfe, and that in 
 Newbrough, facing the entrance of Long-Room 
 ftreet ; where -the London, and other papers, 
 are taken. To this the gentlemen refort, pay- 
 ing five millings, as a fubfcription, for the ufe 
 of the room, and perufal of the newfpapers. 
 
 HERE dinners, and fuppers, are likewife pro- 
 vided, as at a tavern ; and often fent out to 
 families. It is but juftice to acknowledge the 
 fiandfome manner in which their cuftomers are 
 fupplied, as well as the moderate rate they, and 
 all the other Scarbrough victuallers, charge. 
 
 THE fifliing boats difpofe of their cargoes to 
 women on the fands, who retail them at fair 
 prices, to the company, and inhabitants pro- 
 portioning fuch prices, to the firf; coft of their 
 merchandize, which, of neceflity, . often varies, 
 but may, in general, be deemed cheap. 
 
 THE alTemblage of contrafled appearances, 
 around the fiming boats, when drawn up on the 
 fands, for fale of their cargoes, attracts the eye 
 
 often
 
 often entertainingly ; where each may chufe 
 from what the fifherman's labours, during the 
 previous night, and early dawn, have produeed. 
 
 CURIOUS fHh fauces, of all forts, prepared by 
 the celebrated Mr. Long, No. 73, Cheapfide, are 
 fold by Charles Wright, grocer, corner of Queen- 
 ilreet. 
 
 THE markets for butchers meat, and poultry, 
 
 are on Thurfday, and Saturday -The firft, by 
 
 far moil confidence. Yet, during fummer 
 months, meat is ilaughtered, more or lefs, every 
 day in the week. 
 
 A POULTERER, by the name of Nixon, at the 
 bottom of Eland's Cliff, near the fands ; and 
 another, named Wilfun, in the Apple-Market, 
 fupply every kind in feafon, ready for the fpjt 
 or pot, on due previous notice. Mutton of this 
 country, was efteemed as fuperior to moft in 
 England ; but fmce Lineolnfhire fheep, are faid 
 to pay beft, efpccially on the new enclofed land, 
 real moor mutton is not fo often, as heretofore, 
 fed here, or brought to market. 
 
 POULTRY, is neither remarkable for dearnefs, 
 or plenty, or any other peculiarity, except this ; 
 that not only fewer pullets, (in proportion) are 
 brought to market, than cocks, but fewer, in 
 general, hatched, than in moft other counties. 
 
 VEGE-
 
 ( '7' ) 
 
 VEGETABLES are here good, and in very faf- 
 iicient plenty ; efpecially potatoes, the favourite 
 produce of the diitricl. 
 
 THERE arc fcveral gardeners, who regulariy 
 attend the market ; but, by far the moft diftin- 
 guifhed, and fkilful among them, is William 
 Bean-; who fupplies all the vegetable tribe, for 
 the kitchen, table, and defert, in the beft per- 
 fection this country will admit. He may be 
 faid to have iirft brought the cultivation of ek- 
 gant vegetables into notice here, fupplying them 
 both amply, and in excellence. His garden is 
 always open to the company, who may chufe to 
 walk in it. He cultivates both grecnhoufe plant*, 
 and flowers, or bouquets for the ladies. Having 
 fpared no reafonable expence in hot-houfes, and 
 frames, to mature his fruit, he has the iatis- 
 f action (as well as thofe who partake of them) 
 to find, he fucceeds in the article of grapes, in a 
 manner altogether equal with any part of Eng- 
 land ; we might fairly add, even the Northern 
 parts of France, 
 
 BREAD, at Scarbrough, has been hurnourouily 
 pronounced the wholefomcii in England, as be- 
 ing lighter, (and confequentiy much eafkr of di- 
 geition,) than that of molt corporate towns ; by 
 fomc ounces in the iixpenny loaf! But it mufr 
 alfo be obferved, that wheat is, upon an average, 
 dearer here, than at the neighbouring markets ; 
 and was fo, in the proportion of about a fcventh, 
 
 nntil
 
 Until the late building and eftablifhment, of that 
 ample wind-mill, which now fupplies, and deco- 
 rates the town. French rolls are, in every fenfe, 
 the beft bread furniihed at the principal bakers 
 ihops : what is made in private families, is in 
 general heavy, and ill concocted. A Mrs. Bar- 
 ker, near the poft-office, makes at prefent the 
 lighted and beft houfehold bread in Scarbrough. 
 But if any reafonable caufe of complaint againft 
 the bakers, or others, fhould at any time arife, 
 an application at the Town Clerk's office, on 
 Mondays, will obtain immediate redrefs. 
 
 THERE are three common brewers, who fend 
 in ale, or table, and fmail beer, at reafonable 
 rates, and good of its kind, Mr. John Nesfield, 
 Mr. Chriftopher Ling, and Mr. Samuel Simpfon. 
 The tea apparatus is furnifhed at the refpective 
 lodgings. 
 
 A CIRCULATING LIBRARY is kept by J. Scho- 
 field, boojkfeller and ftationer, in Newbrough- 
 ftreet, (who fells every article in thofe refpective 
 branches, far fuperior in quality to any in town, 
 and as 'cheap as in London. For particulars vide 
 the firft leaf in his catalogue). It is numerous, 
 and compofed of fuch a variety of books, that he 
 humbly trufts, every clafs of readers will find 
 matter of coniiderable entertainment among 
 them. The neceflary fupply of a general de- 
 mand for light fummer reading, has been at- 
 tended to ; and a proportion of valuable pro- 
 ductions,
 
 ( '73 ) 
 
 ductions, on the fubject of hiftory, polite arts, 
 and other mifcellaneous matter, been colle&ed : 
 Nor are the more ferious works of learned, and 
 elegant writers, wanting among them ; but, 
 from the misfortune of a contracted fituation," 
 it is impoflible at prefent, to arrange his books 
 with that regularity, and advantage of appear- 
 ance, fo much to be defired, in collections, de- 
 -ftined like his, for the ufe of the refpectable 
 public. The books in this collection, amount to 
 upwards of 4000 volumes. They are lent by 
 iubfcriptioH, only. A fubfcriber of five {hil- 
 lings, is allowed two books at a time ; of feven 
 ihillings and fixpence, four ; of half a guinea, 
 fix ; which may be changed once every day, 
 Sundays exccpted. 
 
 THERE is a neat and compact fmall Theatre, 
 or Playhoufe, in Tanner-ftreet, for the entertain- 
 ment of the company, town, and neighbour- 
 hood. The management of which, reflects abun- 
 dant credit on Mr. James Cawdell, whofe abili- 
 ties in his profefiion, and irreproachable conduct 
 through life, have obtained for him a very ge- 
 neral efteem, both as manager, and as a private 
 member of the community. He has, for the 
 moil part, fucceeded well, in engaging fuch co- 
 medians, as have been altogether agreeable to 
 their audience ; is himfelf, a general actor, and 
 does great credit to many of the parts he un* 
 der takes, 
 
 THE
 
 ( '74 ) 
 
 THE expedition with which letters and parcels, 
 to fay nothing of pailer.gers themfelves, are now 
 regularly conveyed to, and from the metropolis, 
 extending to fuch remote diftances, is a moil ex- 
 traordinary convenience, in numberlefs inflances, 
 
 to the community at large. In this refpect we 
 
 {land enviable and unrivalled among all the king- 
 doms of the earth ; and our acknowledgments 
 are proportionably to be made, for fuch conve- 
 nience, to Mr. Palmer, agaioft whofe plan, ih- 
 terefted malice, arranged every falfhood, or ex- 
 aggeration they couid equip, for the purpofe of 
 deftroyi'ng it; ftrugling to prepofTefs all thole who 
 might be benefited thereby.-r Singulai , and oc- 
 calional inftances of ailoniming celerity, are more 
 frequently found in our own annals, than thoii; 
 of any other country. 
 
 MEMORABLE is that of Cardinal Wolfey, who in 
 very little more than three clear days*, delivered 
 
 his 
 
 * " Cardinal Wolfey, having received his difpatches on a Sun* 
 i!.iy, about four o'clock in the afternoon, he let forward from 
 Richmond, and foon carne to London, where he found a barge 
 ready to carry him to Gravefend. In k-fs than three hours he af- 
 rivcd there ; immediately took poft horles, and reached Dover the 
 next morning : The paflage boat being juft going oft' for Calais, he 
 \vas lo lucky as to get to that place before noon. From thence he 
 proceeded with fuch expedition, that he got into the Imperial Court, 
 on Monday evening. The Emperor having notice that a Minilter 
 attended, who was charged .with a commifllcm from the King of 
 England, inftantly gave him audience ; to whom \Volfey opened his 
 credentials ; and having delivered them in form, prayed that his re- 
 tur.a to his Sovereign might be expedited : to which rcqueft Maxi- 
 milian
 
 ( 175 ) 
 
 his embafiy, and brought an anfwer from the 
 Emperor Maximiliian, before Henry VIU. fup- 
 poied he had taken his departure. 
 
 SIR Robert Carey, afterwards Earl of IV Ion- 
 mouth, rode 5-0 miles in leis than 3 days, when 
 he vent from London to Edinburgh, with the 
 news of Queen Elizabeth's death, to James I. 
 The ftate of the roads in thofe times, and the im- 
 perfect regulation of polls, and poft-horfes, make 
 this appear, as it really was, a molt furprizing 
 exertion and atchievement. 
 
 THE Stilton Hero, as he was nfually termed, 
 and others fince him, who, for confiderable" 
 wagers, have rode with extraordinary expedition 
 
 was fo favourable, that the fame mght he received his 
 r, wherein, every thing he had propofcd on the part of hii 
 n.jfter, was agreed to. Upon this, early on Wednefday mo: 
 he took poft for Calais where be c^me at the opening of the gates, 
 and found the pallage boat ready to put to fea. lie- embarked 
 therein, and in a Ihort time landed at Dover. Poft-horfes being 
 ready for hid, he got fafe that night to Richmond, where he 
 repofed himfclf after fo fatiguing a journey. On Thurfday morn- 
 ing, he attended at Court, and as foon as he faw his Majefiy, he 
 himfeif at his feet. The King not expttfing to fee him 
 there ; and fuppofing he had- delayed his fetting out, gave him a 
 f. vcre rebuke ; or v.hkh, to Henry's great farprize, he addrefled 
 
 him in the ioilowing words : Jf it may p!eaie your Highnefs, I 
 
 already been with the Emperor, and difpatched your Grace's 
 ,1 truft, to your Grace's conte-.itment ; and then prefented hw 
 . of credence." Vide Grove's life of Ca. :fey. 
 
 X. B. The place where the Emperor's Court was then held, is 
 mentioned by either Grove, or Fiddis ; both writers of the 
 life j but it is believed to hare been Bruffels.
 
 ( '76 ) 
 
 a great number of miles, may fcarce be ranked 
 with men, who from the urgency of real bufinefs, 
 made fuch almoft incredible exertions ; among 
 which laft, one Calvert, of Dover, but little 
 known, is particularly memorable. He, on the 
 iyth of July, 1720, went from Southwark to 
 Calais, and back again on the fame day. He fet 
 out at 3 o'clock in the morning, and returned 
 about 8 in the evening, in good health and fpirits. 
 The diftance is upwards of one hundred and 
 eighty miles, forty*two of which, at two dif- 
 ferent paffages, by fea. 
 
 THESE kind of efforts will now be, in general, 
 fuperfluous, lince the regular conveyance of in- 
 telligence, to places confiderably diftant, is fo very 
 expeditious. 
 
 THE Poft, comes in every clay about 8 in the 
 morning, and goes out exactly at 2 in the after- 
 noon ; fo that a letter written from Scarbrough 
 at 2 o'clock on Saturday afternoon, may be .an- 
 fwered from London, and that anfwer received 
 Jiere, by Wednefday morning's poft at eight, 
 
 Carriages to and jrom Scarbrougk. 
 
 TO York, and back hither, there are Dili- 
 gences every day in the week, during the 
 feafon, which go alternately, from Mr. Stephen's, 
 the new inn ; Mrs. Temple's ; Mrs. Yeoman's ; 
 Mr. Croafdale's ; Mr. Marflet's ; and Mr. Wil- 
 fon's. Fare eleven millings each pcrfon. 
 
 A
 
 ( '77 ) 
 
 A LIGHT Coach alib runs from Mrs. 
 the George inn ; and Mr. Marflet's, the Blue-bell 
 inn, Scarbrough, every day, Sundays excepted ; 
 fets out at feven in the morning, and arrives at 
 the Golden Lion, Thurfday-market, about three 
 in the afternoon. Fare IDS. 6d. to York. Goes 
 the fame night to Leeds, where it arrives at the 
 Rofe-and-Crown, about feven o'clock. Fare 6s. 
 from York toLeeds. Returns and arrives at the 
 above inns near the fame time. A diligence fets 
 out every day, Sundays excepted, at eight o'clock 
 in the morning* from fome one of the undermen- 
 tioned houfes, the New Inn, the Bull, Blackfmith's 
 Arms, or Old Globe, and arrives at York about 
 five the fame evening. Fare 1 1 {killings. 
 
 ALSO a Diligence goes to Hull three times a 
 week, Monday, Thurfday, and Saturday, from 
 the New Inn ; and on Monday and Friday,, from 
 the Black Bull and Talbot. Sets out at eight 
 o'clock in the morning, and arrives at the Crofs- 
 Keys, Hull, about eight in the evening. Fare i is.pd. 
 
 UPON this head, we cannot help expreffing ouf . 
 hope and wifh, that the whole regulation of the 
 Diligences, may be fo entirely altered and im- 
 proved, as to time of arrival, cleanlinefs, and 
 expedition, that they be no longer cenfuraole 
 we truft, the proprietors will improve by our ad- 
 monition, and convince the public that they DO, 
 by every requifite attention, during this and other 
 enfuing feafons. 
 
 M Carriers
 
 Carriers to and from Scar trough. 
 
 To YORK. Richard Jefferfon, Tanner-ftreet 5 
 Tuefday and Thurfday, about 1 2 o'clock ; re- 
 turns Thurfdays and Sundays about 10 
 o'clock. George 1 Burniflon, Merchant-row j 
 fame days and time. Robert Rawling, at the 
 George Inn, goes out Tuefday and Friday ; 
 returns Monday and Thurfday. 
 
 HULL* George Burniflon, and John Gardiner, 
 go out every Monday at 1 2 o'clock, from the 
 end of the Apple-market ; return on Wed- 
 nefday about 5 in the afternoon. 
 
 BRIDLINGTON. Walter Owfton, goes out every 
 Tuefday and Friday, from the Cabbage-Inn, 
 Apple-market. 
 
 WHITBY. Pearfon, goes out every Friday, about 
 10 o'clock in the forenoon, from the George- 
 Inn ; and T. Walker, corner of Long-Room- 
 ftreet, Tuefdays, at i o o'clock. 
 
 PICKERING. goes out every Thurf- 
 
 about 2 o'clock, from the George-Inn. 
 
 Obfervations on Common, and Sea Water. 
 
 WATER is the bafts of all liquors not only 
 fpir'ts, but oils themfelves, owe their 
 liquid ftate to water. It is an ingredient in the 
 
 composition
 
 corripofition of all bodies, whether vegetable, 
 animal, or mineral; excepting only precious 
 ftones, and fome minerals. Water is diffufed 
 through the atmofphere, even in the warmeft, 
 and dryeft weather. Hence it is, that falts of an 
 alcaline nature, grow moift when expofed to the 
 air, in the greateft droughts ; glafs and metallic 
 veffels, however carefully dried, will collect, 
 watery drops, on being brought into a warm air, 
 by condenfing the aqueous vapours, that imper- 
 ceptibly float in it. 
 
 WATER is more penetrative than any body, 
 except fire. It is alfo difficult to confine; as 
 making its way gradually through moft fub- 
 ftances. -Glafs indeed, confines it abfolutely, but 
 all metals will not. It has been forced through 
 the pores of gold ; water is by fome declared to 
 be more fluid than air, as it will find rts way 
 through the pores of many fubftances, through 
 which air cannot. But this is deemed fallacious, 
 as bladders, and flans, which confine air, but do 
 not water, have their finer paflages opened and 
 foaked through, by the moiftening and diffolving 
 powers of water, which are not pervaded merely 
 by a greater degree of fluidity. 
 
 ITS entering into the compofition of all vege- 
 table and animal bodies, nay into that of moft 
 foilils, and its fmoothnefs, and lubricity alfo, ron- 
 ders it fit for the conveyance of the nourifhing 
 matter of all bodies j being fo fluid, and pafling 
 
 M 2 fo
 
 fo readily, it does not clog any, even the fineft 
 paffages ; but on the contrary, ufually clears 
 them. The quantity of air contained in water, 
 renders it more or lefs lively, and agreeable to 
 the palate, when firft taken from its fpring or 
 fource. 
 
 PERSONS under the neceility of drinking fuch 
 ,as is vapid, have often improved it much, by 
 caufmg it to be poured quickly from one glafs 
 or pitcher, into another, for a confiderable time, 
 drinking it while ftill fparkling. Purity, fimpli- 
 city, lightnefs, and foftnefs, are always figns of 
 the goodnefs of water. The pureft water is with- 
 out fmell, and taftelefs ; tranfparency is not al- 
 ways an infallible criterion to judge of the puri- 
 ty of water by, as it may be impregnated by- 
 many things that would not affect its clearnefs- 
 and if we judge of water, by its weight, allow- 
 ance muft be made for the rarifa&ion and denfity 
 of the included air, which varies, according to the 
 feafon and climate ; not but the lighteft waters, 
 are generally belt. 
 
 THE fubtle volatile fpirit, which moft authors 
 fpeak of, as found in mineral waters, and afcribe 
 their virtues to, feems to be air fix*d by vitriolic 
 acid, and when that be flown off, the water 
 precipitates its metallic principles, not being able 
 any longer to fufpend them. Hence it is obvi- 
 oufly feen, why all mineral waters mould be 
 drank at the fountain-head, or in a very fmall 
 
 fpace of time after being drawn. 
 
 ANOTHER
 
 ANOTHER remark may be here applicable, 
 that the vanity of art, is by nothing more clearly- 
 demonftrable, than in its attempts to imitate na- 
 ture, in the production of mineral waters. The 
 refpective matter contained in each water, is pre- 
 tended to be exactly difcovered by analyfation ; 
 and its proportion, alfo afcertained. Many inge- 
 nious efforts have been therefore made, to combine 
 the fame, in other waters, for the utility of the 
 diftreffed and infirm and to impregnate fuch 
 waters with fixed air likewife, rendering them in 
 nothing diftinguifhable, from the natural one 
 ~ except in their EFFECT ! 
 
 ARGUMENT, and chymical reafoning, has been 
 often fallacious in afcertaining the true caufes 
 WHY each mineral water has iucceeded in particu- 
 lar complaints. The learned are often dupes to 
 a favourite hypothefis ; but practice, and experi- 
 ence, may be fafely depended on, 
 
 IT would be impoffible on any known princi- 
 ple, to account for the extraordinary effects pro- 
 duced by a very fmall proportion of certain 
 minerals, in particular waters, on the difeafed. 
 Yet, when the evidence of our fenfes is con- 
 cerned in the decifion, and we fee fuch a 
 water as that of Scarbrough fpaw, effecting fuch 
 wonderful cures we have only gratefully to bow 
 down before the Great Giver of fuch good things j 
 and when requifite, moft thankfully to apply 
 them. 
 
 M3 IN
 
 ( 1 32 ) 
 
 IN its fimpleft flate, water is certainly the moft 
 univerfal drink in the world ; as well as under 
 proper limitations the moft wholefome. Large 
 draughts at a time, mould in all climates be 
 avoided, efpecially by thofe of tender confti- 
 tutions. 
 
 As water is the only diluter, and the bafis of 
 all fluids, it mould be more attended to, than 
 it ufually is, for the common ufes of life ; efpe-? 
 eially by thofe of infirm conftitutionsr or thofe 
 afflicted by, or recovering from any immediate 
 jllnefs, efpecially fuch as afflid: the bladder, or 
 urinary paflages, 
 
 THE internal ufe of cold water, is not fo much 
 the cuftom in colder climates, as in the more 
 Southern latitudes but yet if (where neceflity 
 requires) it were to be corrected with wine, 
 brandy, or rum, in a very fmall quantity, it 
 would be more falutary for a diflblvent of food, 
 and to .quench thirft, than the malt liquors, com- 
 monly drank with meals, in England. 
 
 To drink it in large draughts, as it is fome- 
 times ufed, at going to bed, is a very batf cuftom; 
 for from the horizontal pofture of the body, at 
 that time, a larger flow of blood will be made to 
 the head, which may be of ill confequence. 
 It is therefore expedient, to fit up fome time, after 
 drinking copioufly, of any liquor whaticever. 
 
 COLD
 
 COLD water, is by no means advifable to per- 
 fons of a cold phlegmatic habit ; but in general., 
 where the ftomach will properly bear it, no 
 liquor is fo wholfome for perfons in found health ; 
 thofe who once adopt it, being rarely found to 
 lay it afide, as a matter of choice ; but for die 
 moft part, from the intervention of fuch difor- 
 ders, as may render it improper. 
 
 WATER, obtained from the atmofphere, is 
 faid not to putrify, if collected with due pre- 
 caution, and preferred from any foreign taint. 
 To obtain it whether in the form of rain, Ihow, 
 or hail, it fliould be collected in clean glafs, or 
 well glazed veflels, in an open field, or at a dif- 
 tance from towns, houfes, confiderable woods, or 
 fwamps ; and at a time when the air is pure, 
 not when the rain or mow begins, but after a 
 conliderable quantity has fallen, that the lower 
 air may be firft wafhed from fuch heterogeneous 
 matter, as may have floated in it. The rains of 
 March, are held to be the moft pure. 
 
 POND, well, river, and fnow waters, are called 
 limple waters ; putrid waters, (of which kind 
 are pond, and ftagnant waters) are purified, and 
 rendered more wholfome, by boiling, and adding 
 fome kind of acid, (to which may be joined a 
 fmall proportion of fugar, and a little fpirit, it 
 being by fome of the faculty, thought fatutary, as 
 \vell as palatable ; Vide Dr. Huxham), 
 
 M 4 River
 
 River 'water, boiled, is moft proper for fcro- 
 phulous, and all chronic and glandular difeafes. 
 
 WELL water, is moft generally objected to, as 
 being often impregnated with mineral, and fa- 
 line particles, which may be ofFenlive to the fto- 
 mach, and inteftines ; and the deeper the well, 
 the more the water is to be fufpected, 
 
 SNOW water, when collected with care, and at 
 a diftance from any large city, on a dry and bar- 
 ren foil, appears to be the pureft of all waters ; 
 and will keep longeft from putrefaction, as being 
 moft free from heterogeneous particles. 
 
 RAIN water, feems to have nothing very par- 
 ticular in it, except after thunder ftorms, when 
 it is manifeftly acid. 
 
 RIVER water, after boiling and pouring off 
 the dregs, is preferred by the faculty, to all other 
 both for medical, and dietetical ufes. But is by 
 no means fo palatable, as frefh fpring water. 
 
 THE beft fpring water, and which is generally 
 preferred by water drinkers, is that which runs 
 through open, hilly, rocky, fandy, or gravelly 
 countries : Water which iflues from black mould, 
 in low and fliady ground, is greatly inferior. 
 
 THE cold bath, is by judicious experimental 
 puilofophers, faid to affecl: the human frame, 
 
 partly
 
 partly by the fudden fhock to the nerves, from 
 its coldnefs, and partly by the weight of the 
 water, prefling open, and fqueezing the fibres, 
 and thereby accelerating the motion, and increaf- 
 ing the impetus of the blood. But befides this, the 
 water enters the body through the pores, in bath- 
 ing, and may therefore be fuppofed to mix with 
 the blood, diluting in fome degree, that, as well 
 as the other juices. Even the circumftance of its 
 cleaning the ikin, is highly beneficial; and^>eing 
 well rubbed with a courfe towel, after bathing, 
 aflifts in promoting that pleafant glow, as well as 
 a continuance of inienfible perfpiration, fo effen- 
 tial to health. 
 
 THE exceffive {hock of regular cold baths, is 
 too violent for the ftrength of fome, and too fe- 
 vere, to be in general taken for the wholfome 
 plealure of others. Hence, fea bathing, more 
 mild, and in various cafes more falutary, is now 
 much adopted in its Head. In complaints of the 
 bladder, warm water baths are found of excellent 
 ufe as alfo in obftinate conftipation of the 
 bowels, the warm bath, has often fucceeded, 
 when all the other moft approved methods failed. 
 Fomentations and warm baths being of the fame 
 nature, have proportionably fimiliar effects. 
 
 THE ingenious Dr. Gooch, of Norwich, re- 
 marked, that the ingredients boiled in fomenta- 
 tions, have but a fmall fliare in the virtues of fuch 
 applications, beyond the fkin. The efficacy of 
 
 the
 
 ( 186 ) 
 
 the fomentations, ariiing from the relaxing and 
 tn&mating quality of the hot water. Warm 
 baths, relax and foften the fibres, and by means 
 of the abforbent velfels, the water mixing with 
 the fluids, attenuate and refolve them. 
 
 TH E vapour of warm water, received into the 
 mouth and throat, by means of a funnel, or pipe, 
 ibmetimes, of itfelf, gives great relief in quiniies, 
 and inflammatory fore throats but with the ad- 
 dition of vinegar, the fleam is of the utmoft ef- 
 ficacy, in every fpecies of common fore throats. 
 
 SEA water, is in itfelf naturally clear, and co- 
 lourlefs as common water, though it exhibits 
 fometimes greenifh, brownifh, or a caft of blue, 
 and other tints of colours, from either accident* 
 al admixtures, or agitations of the water by 
 ftorms or elfe by different reflections of the, 
 fun's rays. 
 
 THE upper and fuperficial parts of the water, 
 are lighter, lefs faline, and more coloured, than 
 the lower. Upon experiment, 1 2 oz. of the 
 fuperficial water, yielded 3 drams of fait. The 
 fame quantity taken from a conlidcrable depth, 
 afforded 1 5 grains more. 
 
 THE tafte of fea water, is not only faline, from 
 the common fait, but bitter ; it manifeftly con- 
 tains a bituminous matter, yet it is not conceived 
 that the bitterneis is owing folely to that ingre- 
 dient. Various methods have been contrived to 
 
 frefhen
 
 freflien fea water ; and make it fit to drink, but 
 diflillation feems to anfwer the beft. However, 
 no practicable method has yet been deviled, for 
 rendering it generally ufeful to navigators. It is 
 worth remarking, that mariners, exceedingly 
 diftrefled, and without water, have kept them- 
 felves long alive, by dipping their cloaths often in 
 lea water, which, filtered by the pores of the 
 fldn, anfwered in great meafure, the end of frefh 
 water drank. One, among many other inftances, 
 was that of the fad remains, of the Centaur fhip's 
 company, who ufed this method, with great fuc- 
 cefs, by the direction of Captain Inglefield, who 
 providentially recollected it; without which they 
 muft all have periflied by thirft, and its confc- 
 auent fever, 
 
 STORT OF SECCHL 
 
 < c IN the reign of Elizabeth, Queen of England, 
 while Sixtus V. was Pope, a report was fpread 
 in Rome, that Sir Francis Drake had taken and 
 plundered, the city of San Domingo, in the ifland 
 of Hifpaniola, where he had amaffed a prodigious 
 booty. This news was conveyed by a fpecial, 
 and particular letter, to Signor Paul Maria Secchi, 
 a rich merchant of great weight in Rome, who 
 had concerns in thofe parts. This merchant 
 ufually employed one Sampfon Ceneda, a Jew, 
 as his broker; whom, upon this occafion, he 
 fent for, to communicate the intelligence. 
 
 "THE
 
 " THE Jew, whofe intereft it was that the 
 news fhould not be credited, began to reafon 
 againft the probability of its having happened ; 
 and whether he wrought himfelf up to fuch a 
 pitch, as really to diibelieve it; or that he at 
 any rate was determined in fupporting his opi- 
 nion to the utmoft, fuffice it to fay, in the heat 
 of difcourfe, he made ufe of thefe remarkable 
 words, ' I will lay a pound of my own flefh that 
 this matter is falfe,' a ftrange, but not altoge- 
 ther uncommon kind of wager ; fince one often 
 hears it faid, I'll lay my head, Pd lay this hand ; 
 and Secchi, who was rather hafty, but withall a 
 humourift, fharply took him up, and replied, 
 * I'll lay a thoufand crowns againft your pound 
 of flefli, that it is true' 
 
 " THE Jew, obftinate in his opinion, and raih 
 in his manner of fupporting it, inftantly held 
 forth his hand, exclaiming done ; let it be com- 
 mitted to writing, and executed as a bond "of 
 agreement. 
 
 " SECCHI, thoroughly whimfical, affected to 
 take him at his word ; and without more delay, 
 in the prefence of two witnefies, drew up a writ- 
 ing, fignifying, c If it mall prove falfe, that 
 
 the city of San Domingo, in the ifland of Hifpa- 
 .niola, was taken by Drake at fuch a time, Sig- 
 nior Paul Maria Secchi {hall be obliged to pay 
 the Jew, Sampfon Ceneda, a thoufand crowns 
 of good and lawful money ; but, on the con- 
 trary, it proving true, the faid Secchi fliall be 
 
 permitted
 
 ( 189 ) 
 
 permitted, with his own hand, and a well-harp- 
 ened knife, to cut off, from any part of the 
 Jew's body he fhall think proper, one pound of 
 flefh !* This contract was fubfcribed by each of 
 the parties, and a duplicate was alfo made there- 
 of; both of which were authenticated by two 
 witneffes, the one a Chriftian, the other a Jew, 
 who were merchants of fome account. 
 
 " As ill luck would have it. for the Jew, in 
 lefs than three months, the whole of the news 
 was fully confirmed. In fad tribulation, having 
 moreover learned, that Secchi had fworn bit- 
 terly he would moft certainly cut off the faid 
 pound of flefh ; and that he meant to feled: a 
 certain part, which the poor Jew could not pof- 
 fibly think of loofing ! Ceneda waited on the 
 merchant, and proffered to pay a thoufand 
 crowns, as an equivalent with the value of his 
 Hake. Secchi protefted with great vehemence, 
 that he had fworn Ceneda fhould fatisfy the full 
 penalty of the wager. Whereupon the unhappy 
 Hebrew made his immediate application to the 
 Governor of Rome, with a view of obliging 
 Secchi to accept the equivalent, of a thoufand 
 crowns. 
 
 " THE Governor, well knowing how exactly 
 it fuited the humour of Pope Sixtus, to deter- 
 mine, and pafs fentence in aflairs of fuch a nature, 
 
 laid the bufinefs before his Holinefs, who. hav- 
 
 * * 
 
 ing ordered the parties before him, and read 
 their contract of agreement, refpecting the wager, 
 
 made
 
 made ample enquiries, and thereupon addrelTcd 
 
 himfelf to the parties ; ' When wagers are 
 
 laid, they are to be fulfilled. We determine 
 that yours fliall be exactly complied with : 
 Take you, therefore, your fharp knife, and, in 
 our prefence, cut oft' a pound of the Jew's flefh, 
 from whatever part of his body you pleafe : but 
 take good care how you cut ; for if you cut off 
 a (ingle drachm more or lefs, you (hall infallibly 
 be hanged. Let the knife be prepared, and a 
 pair of balances, ready to finiih the bulinefs on 
 the foot*' 
 
 " AT hearing this fentence, poor Secchi began 
 to tremble from head to foot, as if feized by the 
 moil violent ague ; proftrating himfelf at the 
 Pope's feet, he kiffed the earth, in token of ex- 
 ceilive humiliation ; and, with a bitter flood of 
 tears, fignified how very far fuch an execution 
 had ever been from his thoughts. But what do 
 you mean then to do, faid his Holinefs ? Secchi^ 
 ftill in tears, replied, I am fatisfied, Holy Father i 
 I only alk benediction of your Holinefs, and 
 that the agreement may be torn to pieces, and 
 cancelled. And what fay you, faid the Pope, 
 turning to the Jew : Are you alfo fatisfied ? 
 Moft entirely, Holy Father, replied Ceneda ; re- 
 joiced at obtaining a fentence fo exceedingly fa- 
 vourable. Whatever either of you, or both may 
 be, faid Sixtus, we are not fatisfied ; neither is 
 our Governor, the head of our judicature. By 
 what law do you think yourfelves authorifed to 
 make wagers of fuch a nature? As fubjecls of any 
 
 Prince,
 
 Prince, no man breathing, is entitled to more 
 than the free ufe of his body, life, or limbs. 
 They have no power to alienate, or difpofe of 
 either, without the exprefs confent of their fo- 
 
 vereign. 
 
 " THE offenders were thereupon conveyed to 
 prifon, and the Governor ordered to make a 
 moft rigorous example of them, in order to deter 
 Others, and to put a ftop to fuch fort of pro- 
 ceedings. 
 
 "THEGovernor accordingly propofed, that they 
 fliould each be fentenced to the fine of a thou- 
 fand crowns. Sixtus exclaimed, and is that all? 
 Shall it then be permitted, that any man may 
 difpofe of his life when he pleafes ? Had not the 
 Jew, who agrees to this horrid wager, by a writ- 
 ing under his o\vn hand, expofed his life to cer- 
 tain deftruction ? Is this any thing, in fact, left 
 than felf-murder; and is not Secchi a down- 
 right wilful murderer, in deliberately concerting, 
 agreeing to, and ultimately inliiting on fuch 
 terms, as the cutting off a pound of the Jew's 
 flefh? Can you have any doubt, whether the 
 cutting off a pound of human fiem, would not 
 have been fatal ; and particularly, confidering 
 where Secchi meant to have cut ? Here are two 
 abfolute intentional murderers ; and {hall they 
 be chaftifed in our pontificate, fimply ^ a fine ? 
 The Governor argued Secchi's folemn declara- 
 tion, viz. that he had not the leaft thoughts of 
 
 fo
 
 fo inhuman a proceeding, but only intended to 
 plague and alarm the Jew ; and the Jew's pro- 
 tefting he made fuch a wager, upon the ftrongeft 
 perfuafions that it was impofiible the news could 
 
 be true. Sixtus continued inexorable : Let 
 
 them, faid he, be both conveyed to the gallows, 
 and there fentenced to die : It will afterwards 
 remain with us, what fteps may be proper to be 
 taken. In fine, both the wagerers were con- 
 demned to loofe their heads. The fentence afto- 
 nifhed and alarmed the whole city. Secchi was 
 a man of honourable family, and had many opu- 
 lent perfons for his relations. The Jew alfo was 
 one of the firft order in his Synagogue. Both 
 their families and friends, made every poflible 
 intereft with Cardinal Montalto, the Pope's ne- 
 phew, at leaft, that their lives might be fpared. 
 
 " SIXTUS, not intending from the firft, that 
 they ftiould be put to death, but to alarm others 
 by his manner of treating thcfe offenders, fuf- 
 fered himfelf at length to be perfuaded to change 
 their punifhment, from a capital one, for that of 
 the gallies. And even this, he confented ftiould 
 be optional, provided they fubmitted to the fine 
 of 2000 crowns each, which was to be given to 
 the hofpital di Ponte Sifto" 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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