y' 
 
 > b
 
 ^ f ;^%,*^.^*.^^^ 
 
 DAHOMEY AS IT IS 
 
 NAPiEATIVE OF EIGHT MONTHS' RESIDENCE 
 -IN THAT COUNTEY, 
 
 WITH A 
 
 FULL ACCOUNT OF TUB NOTORIOUS ANNUAL CUSTOMS, 
 
 AND TUE SOCIAL AND EELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS 
 
 OF THE FFONS; 
 
 APPENDIX ON ASHANTEE, 
 
 AND A 
 
 6lossair) of Da^omaii Morbs aivb Katies. 
 Bv J. A. SKERTCHLY. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS, FROM SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 CHAPMAN AND HALL, 1!):3, PICCADILLY 
 
 1874. 
 
 1 .4 // righfs referred. J
 
 X)r 
 
 TO 
 
 ANDKEW SWANZY, ESQ., 
 
 THROUGH WHOSE MUNIFICENCE HE WAS ENABLED TO VISIT 
 WEST AFRICA, 
 
 C^b Solium is liisrrikb 
 
 AS A MARK OF ESTEEM 
 
 BY HIS SINCERE WELL-WISHER, 
 
 THE AUTHOR.
 
 PEEFACE. 
 
 In tlie early part of 1871 I left England with tlie 
 object of making zoological collections on the West 
 Coast of Africa. My first station was at Assinee, and 
 from thence I went to Cape Coast Castle and Accra, call- 
 ino; at all the intermediate towns. At Assinee I was 
 prevented from penetrating far into the interior by 
 reason of the hostility of the Ashantees, and palavers 
 with the neighbouring petty kings. At Accra, again, the 
 Krobo people were up in arms, so that the splendid 
 collecting ground of Aquipim w^as closed against me. 
 I therefore determined to proceed to Whydah and w^ork 
 up the fauna of that district, intending afterwards to 
 return to Aquipim as soon as an opportunity presented 
 itself. 
 
 In consequence of my detention by the King of 
 Dahomey, however, I was unal)le to follow up my 
 
 h
 
 viii PREFACE. 
 
 design, but was condemned to be the recipient of 
 savage honours and to sit an unwilling spectator of the 
 notorious Annual Customs of the country ; my feelings 
 being grievously harassed by the thought that I had 
 discovered one of the richest localities in Western 
 Africa, while the polite imprisonment, as it were, to 
 which I was subjected, entirely precluded my making 
 any collection save the meagre one to be obtained in 
 the spacious courtyards of my residence. 
 
 Hence my entomological labours resulted in almost 
 nil, in spite of repeated and earnest solicitations to 
 Gelele for permission to collect in the environs of 
 Abomey at least. I endeavoured to console myself 
 with the thought that I should be able to get a 
 thorough knowledge of the Dahomau people, but I 
 would much rather have remained ignorant of the 
 Ffons and have added a trifle to zoological know- 
 ledge than have been enabled to produce this 
 volume. 
 
 When I arrived at Whydah, I had not the remotest 
 intention of visiting the king, since I was well aware 
 that the interior of the country was so effectually 
 
 I
 
 PREFACE. ix 
 
 " tabooed " to Europeans, that many persons had 
 passed half their lives on the coast, and had never had 
 an opportunity of making a journey into the interior 
 other than in the immediate precincts of the town in 
 which they resided. 
 
 It appears, however, that some guns had been 
 landed for the king, and Quinun was informed that 
 I was competent to instruct him in their usage. 
 
 With that sycophancy, so highly developed in all 
 savages when they imagine they can obtain any benefit 
 from its practice, he sent an extensive escort to con- 
 duct me from the beach to Whydah, and on my arrival 
 assured me that if I would instruct him in the use of the 
 guns, and would go up to the capital and explain them 
 to the king, I should be well treated and he hack again 
 at Whydah in eight days. 
 
 The first part of his promise was more than fulfilled, 
 for I never experienced greater hospitality at the hands 
 of any man, civilised or savage, than I did from GeleM ; 
 but with regard to the second, the eight days were pro- 
 longed to eight months. 
 
 Beguiled by this offer to explore a comparatively 
 
 »2
 
 X PREFACE. 
 
 unknown country, I consented to make the journey to 
 Abomey ; and on arrival tliere, Gelel^ conceived a strong 
 and unaccountable regard towards me, and with a 
 savage's utter disregard of consequences insisted upon 
 my remaining his guest during the succeeding Customs. 
 This would have been all very well had I been allowed 
 to do a little collectinor in the intervals between the 
 
 o 
 
 ceremonies ; but Gelele said that " he loved me so strong 
 that he could not allow me to go into the bush for fear 
 of accident, and that people had been there and had 
 spoilt his name in England, so he must show me every- 
 thing, so that I might write a book about it." Resis- 
 stance was hopeless. Hence I was obliged to waste 
 eight months, an idle spectator of a savage pageant. 
 
 In the following pages I have endeavoured to give the 
 reader a full and concise account of the Annual Cus- 
 toms, and at the same time to subdue as much as 
 i possible their wearisome monotony. I have also treated 
 of the manners, religion, and everyday life of the 
 Ffons. Their name as a nation is perhaps the best 
 known of any West African tribe, and the most exag- 
 gerated accounts have been published concerning them.
 
 PREFACE. xi 
 
 For example, in a recent periodical it was stated in good 
 faith that the king of Dahomey had just invented a new 
 court costume composed of the " labels off medicine 
 bottles." Ex uno disce omnes ! 
 
 I have also attempted to show the vast difference 
 existing between the negro and the Semiticised negroid, |i 
 and to paint a true picture of the negro as he is, and not 
 as he is often represented to be. This may not meet 
 with the approbation of many Exeter Hall philanthro- 
 pists, but most of those gentlemen have obtained their 
 knowledge from some interested "man and brother." 
 Generally speaking, the so-called " negroes " who are 
 held up as shining lights are ivliite men ivitli a dash of I 
 the tar-brush. 
 
 The civilisation and education of the negro is all very 
 well, but let us have a thorough understanding of the 
 being upon whom we are about to experiment, before 
 launching out into extravagant theories. 
 
 At the present moment we are learning by bitter 
 experience that our Fantee allies! the very negroes 
 whose civilisation has been the theme of many an 
 enthusiast, are not worth the flints in theii- muskets to
 
 xii PREFACE. 
 
 defend themselves, whereas the negro (?) Ashantees are 
 brave, determined enemies. 
 
 It is to be hoped that at the conclusion of the cam- 
 paign the eyes of our countrymen will be opened to the 
 fallacy of attemptmg to make " silk purses from sows' 
 ears." 
 
 In conclusion, I would tender my very hearty thanks 
 for the hospitable receptions I everywhere met with 
 from the European residents on the West Coast, trusting 
 to have the pleasure of again meeting them ere long. 
 
 J. A. S. 
 
 London, January, 1 874. 
 
 I
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 V 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ARRIVAL IN DAHOMEY. 
 
 Arrival at "Whydah — Its appearance — Exciting Landing — Walk 
 to Whydah— The Custom House — Zitmhogi— Entrance to Whydah 
 — Visit to Quinun — Policemen — Punishment of Soldiers — Ceremony 
 of entering a Vessel — Musical Instruments ....... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 AN EXCURSION NEAR WHYDAH. 
 
 Visit to Quinun's Plantation —Dahoman Hammocks and Hammock- 
 travelling — Vultures — Procession — Pipes — Dahoman Equestrians — 
 Zoniaihiemen — Cowrie Currency— The French Fort — Belgravia — French 
 Jlission — Legend of Foil's Bombax — A Swearing Place — Quinun's 
 Farna— The Miraculous Berry— Manufacture of Palm Oil — John 
 Beechani, alias Prince Bah — Pleasant Quarters 23 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE WHYDAH LIONS. 
 
 Boundaries of Dahomey — Its Physical Geography— Climate— Tornadoes — 
 Mosquitoes — Harmattan — "The Smokes " — The " Doctor " — Heavy 
 Surf — Quittah Fetichism — Geology of Dahomey — Pluvial Epoch — 
 Population — Disparity of the Sexes— Gre-Whe, and Early History of 
 Whydah — Its Divisions — English Fort— Gothic House— Wesleyan 
 Mission — Bats^ — The Avogan's Palace — Fearful Punishment — 
 The Snake Temple —" Fire and Water" — A Wandering Deity 
 '\ — Whydah Market — Heterogeneous Collection — Portuguese Fort — 
 Mistaken ideas of Missionaries, with respect to Savage Races. — 
 Brazilian Fort— The De Souza Family — The Chacha— Immorality — 
 S. Medeiros— The Future of Whydah 3t> 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. 
 
 Start for Abomcy— Quinun's Message— Joe— Midnight Travelling— The 
 "Big" Tree — My Hammock-men— A Corduroy Bridge— Agbana 
 Water— Savi— The Nynsin Swamp— An Unfaithful Deity— Palmyra 
 Palms —Toll Water— Toli— Dahoman Houses-Leopards —Finches — 
 LovelyFlora—Azohweh— Agriculture— Pleasures ofTravel— Telegraphic 
 Despatch— Butterflies — AUadah— Our Passport— History of Alladah — 
 Origin of the Dahoman Kingdom —Daho's Treachery — Bulfinche Lambe
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 — Reception at AUadah— The Singbo — Stulls of two Criminals— 
 Dahonian Salutations — " Oiu" Hearts are Cooled" — Tree of Bats— The 
 Fetiche town ........... 
 
 69 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE CAVITAL {continued). 
 
 % Departure from Alladah— Attogau — "Hand-clapping" N'Henvi — Pic- 
 turesque Situation — "Red Walled" N'Henvi — Palm Wine — luli — 
 Whegbo — Its origin — Akpweh — Thunderstorm — Despatch of 
 Messengers to the King — A Pleasant Night's Rest — The Aglim^ 
 Swamp — Rough Travelling — Convenient Thorns — Ants — Abed 
 of "Down" — Wondonun — Its Origin — Aievajeh — Aglime Prairie^ 
 Zogbodomen — Fiisl fl eeting with the Amnxnn-; — Public Nuisance — 
 Plantation Scenery — Kana — Arrival at our Journey's End — Visit from 
 the Benazon — Message from the King 94 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 RECEPTION AT KANA. 
 
 History of Kana — Bats — Sand Wasps — Visit from the Adonejan and the 
 Buko-nonroh — The Eclipse — Luminous Centipedes — A Tame Chameleon 
 — Visit to the Old Palace — Edible Rats — The Monke}' King — Dahomau 
 Rifle Contest — Preparation for the Reception — The Gbwu-hun-li — 
 Parade of Officers — Dahoman Dances — Horns — Pantomime of 
 the Ashanti Company — Jesters — My Song of Welcome — Nicknames 
 — Procession to the Palace — The "Stone-clatter" Palace- — A Palace 
 Gate— Grand Reception by the Nobiiitj' — The Ningau — The j^Ieu — 
 Eunuchs — Gelele, Kjng _of_JDahome3f-^The^.^Ama2unL^ __Guaials;— 
 Salutations — A Novel Decanter — Return to my Quarters 
 
 lis 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 JOURNEY TO ABOMEY. 
 
 Start for Abomey : The Namyiukpo— Its Wonderful Power — DisgnHfr nf 
 the Amazons at it — Splendid Road- — Fetiche— Lovely Scenery — 
 
 g Adan-we Pahicp, antPthe Akwe-janahau Market — The "Grove of 
 Vexation" — Small Reception en 7-i nit e— Fetiche Dances — An 
 Ironical Deity — State Carriage — Visit to Hahansu — Arrival at Abomey 
 — ily lares et jpcnaies — A Guard of Honour — An Ominous Protector 
 
 1J7 
 
 i 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. 
 
 Complimentary Sticks — The Akwaji Uhon-nukon — Bwckon-hun — The 
 
 .^ Adaiizan — Avenue of Palms— Amazonian ilusic— Gelelds' Appearance 
 
 . ^ — The Amazonian Corj)s — The Agbaraya — Planner of firing their Guns 
 
 — Tlie Male Soldiery — The Bamboo R; ')icon — Re-appearance of the
 
 CONTEXTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 A mazons— The Cowrie Scramble— GeleM drinks my Health— Ningan's 
 fSpeecli — Jesters — Night Guards— Their Reliefs— Fearful Music — Visit 
 from the Klan — Visit to Hahausu— Arrival of the Governor of the 
 Portuguese Fort at Whj'dah— Washing Clothes— Visit from the Triuce 
 — Patience a Necessary Article ........ 162 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. 
 
 Origin of the Customs : of Two Kinds — The Akhosutanun — The Khwetanun 
 — The Eyeo Custom— General Outline of the Customs — The Human 
 Sacrifices — " Wanted, a Doctor " — My Prescriptions— Richards — Visit 
 from the Adouejan . . . . . . . . • .178 
 
 First Section of the Kinqs So-Sin CiostoiJi. — Commencement of the So-Sin 
 Custom— Clotho— the Akhosu-sosin-bekpah, or Victim shed for the 
 King— The Human Victims— G6zu's Tent— Bo-Fetiche— The Agasunno 
 and his Assistants — Feeding the Gods — Victims for the Bush-King and 
 the People — A Plea for Dahomey— Umbrella Heraldry— The Gezu-ye-ho 
 — Seizure of the Horses by the Sogan — Reception of the Governor— The 
 " Strangers" — Promotions in the Army — New Drummers — Unveiling 
 of the Bo-Fetiche — A Ghostly Spectator— Gelele's Speech with his 
 Father— Leopard Wives — Oblation to Gezu — Distribution of Rum . 186 
 
 Second Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Curious Superstition respecting 
 Dogs — Procession of Feticheers — The Ceremony at the Didoh — Return 
 of the Priests with the Sacred Water 206 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM {continued). 
 
 Third Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Pleasures of Waiting upon t 
 Royalty — Procession of Eunuchs— Parade of the King's Robes ^Dance. 
 ^(1 SiiDij; iif till- Amazons — Court Zanys — Procession of the " Inside" 
 Olli< ' 1- Till .Viiiiujnvelo', or Omnipotent Cloth— The Royal Solo on 
 the Nlw ])iuiu— Exliibitiou of the King's Robes — Gelele's Metamor- 
 phoses and Dances . . 21 J 
 
 Fourth Section of lite King's So-Si)t Custom. — Gelele's Three Skull Trophies 
 — Dance and Procession of the Ministers — Theu" Song — Gelele's Dance — 
 The Bassajeh — Fighting for Cowries ....... 222 
 
 Fifth Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Preparations for the Human 
 Sacrifices — The Braggadocio Company — Song of the National liards — 
 u^niazonian Balle t — Abeokeuta Threatened — Song of the Generals — 
 National Songs — Procession of Amazons with Cowries- . . . 228 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM (conHnucd). 
 
 SixthSectionoftJie King's So-SinCnstom. — Difficulty in Preventing the Human 
 Sacrifices — Abeokeuta as bad as Dahomey — Exaggerated Accounts of the 
 Sacrifices — Tlie King's Statement respecting them — 111 efiVcts of 
 Bernasko's Example — Ceremonies of the '' Evil Night " . . . 235 
 
 Seventh and Last Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Victims in the Uhunglo 
 Market — A Horrible Mark of Favour — More Victims— The Coomassie
 
 COXTENTS. 
 
 Palace — Splendid Pavilion — Curious Artillery — The Bush-King's Seat — 
 King'sFetiche — Gelele's Appearance — Parade of Ministers in State Robes 
 — The War Captains — The Inferior Officers — The Eunuchs — Parade of 
 AmaTnTjian ATinj^tgr s, Captains, and Offic ers — Undrass Revinw~of3len' 
 a535«a2Qii« — Grotesque appearance of sonie of them^^peeches of Ihe 
 tVvo Ningans— Tiffin — Procession of the King's "Wealth — Powerful 
 Fetiche — Razor-women — Gelele's Tomb Ornaments — The Gbeto, or 
 Elephant Hunters — State Chariots— King's Leopard Wives — Tail 
 Dancers — Mothers of the Kings — Throwing Cowries dn the Market — 
 Conclusion of the King's So-Sin Custom .-'.... 
 
 240 
 
 \y 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE BUSH-KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. 
 
 Oiigiii of the Bush- King — His Palace — His Officers — The King of Dahomey 
 
 not a Trader — Meaning of the Name 270 
 
 First Section of the Bush-King's So-Sin Cxistom. — Gelele's Speech — Ningan's 
 Reply — Distribution and Fight for Cowries —Ballet of the Amazons — 
 Royal Drummers — Dance with the King — Small Procession of 
 Fetichists . 272 
 
 Second Section of the Bush-King's So-Sin Custom. — Dahoman Jesters — Pro- 
 cession of Amazonian Ministers — Native Horsemanship . . . 275 
 
 Third. Section of the Biish-King's So-Sin Custom. — A.sk Permission to leave 
 Abomey — The King's Answer — Jack in the Green — Parade of 
 Amazonian Ministers — Procession of the King's "Wealth for Addokpon. 27S 
 
 Fourth Section of the BicsJi-King's So-Sin Custoin. — Prophetic Vultures — 
 "Jail Birds " — the Kosi — Gelele's Speech and Song — Present of Cooked 
 Provisions 2S2 
 
 Fifth Section of the Bush-King's So-Sin Custom. — Dies Irae — Whitewash- 
 ing the Gods — A Small Dose of Medicine 285 
 
 Sixth and last Sectimi of the Bush-King's So-Sin Custom. — Yic^.ims in the 
 Market for Addokpon— The Doho — Song of the Guards — New 
 
 ^ Umbrella — Criminal Cases — Smoke with a Vengeance — We are Passed 
 — A Double Conscience— The Forlorn Hope — Procession of Alinisters — 
 The Zankuku — Addokpon's Escort — The War Captains' Parade — 
 Review — Grand Display of the Dahoman Army — Gelele's _Ilc£sa^- 
 I'arade of Aj Ha?""^— ^fy Dxn^p--|^_y^j^. Food" — Parade of Male 
 Soldiers — Distribution of Rum and Cowries by Night, and Conclusion 
 of the So-Sin Custom 2SG 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PRESENTATION AT COURT. 
 
 Visit to the King at the Coomassie Palace — Leopard Wives — The Audience 
 — Smoking — No "Pass" as Yet — I am a "Tame" Man — Permitted 
 to Visit Mahi— Abeokeuta — The Human Victims — Drinking Healths 
 — Present of Girls and Men — My Escort 300 
 
 • CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE KONG MOUNTAINS. 
 Start for Mahi — Gymnastic Travelling — Sohmeh — Kanah — Bobai — Zeug-
 
 COXTEXTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 nooniie — Mbomen — R. Lagos — Canoe-making — Leopards — Blood- 
 thirsty Enemies— Dovoh Monkeys— Abundance of game — Paweh- 
 Ahunseh — Driver Ants — The Mahi Captives — Iron Smelting — Pic-nic- 
 iug — Delightful Climate— The Hill " Difficulty" — Ampasim — Visit to 
 Zoglogbo, the Dahoman Magdala— African Naturalists— Splendid 
 View — Kodongo — Bevangeh — Lions — Dorseh— Pahlookoh — Its His- 
 tory — Ants again — Beautiful Scenery — Kangro — Native Panic — 
 Jallaku — Elephants — Pythons — A Man-eating Hyaena — Vedoli — 
 Mbogelah — A Thirsty Aquarius— Chararah — Ascent of the Peak — 
 Glorious Sunrise — Extensive Prospect— The Glacial Epoch — Eeturn to 
 Abomey ............ 307 
 
 CHAPTER XV. . 
 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. 
 
 Visit to the King — Despatch of Messengers to the Late King — Procession 
 
 of Captains and Amazons . . . . . . . . .333 
 
 First Section of the Attoh Custom. — The Attoh Platform — Victim Sheds — 
 
 Creation of a New Jotosi Company — Daace-ef-€rtnnteiH«i!s_A.mazons . 341 
 
 Second Section of the Attoh Custom. — Under the Doctor's Hand— Dance of 
 
 the Royal Family 314 
 
 Third Section of the Attoh Custom. — Arrival of Moslems from the Interior 
 
 to purchase Slaves — Dance of Drummers — Creation of a New Gaou . 346 
 
 Fourth Sectio7i of tlie Attoh Custom. — Parade of Men and Amazons — -CowTie 
 Fighting — Procession of Fetiche Priests — Execution of a Captive for 
 Ningan — The Tokpon— Procession of King's Wealth .... 341) 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE ATTOH CUSTOM {continued). 
 
 Fifth Section of the Attoh Cicstum. — Procession of Amazons — Executions for 
 them — Amazonian Tokpon Procession —More Victims 
 
 Sixth Section of the Attoh Custom. — Palavers with the Amazons — Execution 
 of eight of the oftenders, and establishment of the Roue Company — 
 Procession of W ar Cap^-^'"^ ^i^ — A-nr^^ig — Distribution of Cowries 
 rmdr-GkrHr'toTIieWarriors — Sacrifice of a Victim for the Men — Novel 
 Cure for Head-ache — Procession for the Men — Visit to Hahansu — His 
 opinion on the Slave Trade and the Human Sacrifices . . . 35y 
 
 Seventh and last Section of tJie Attoh Custom. — Distribution of Cowries to the 
 Amazons, and Sacrifice of Two Victims— Presentation of New Cloth to 
 the Ministers — Procession of the Principal Officers — Uistributioft- of 
 Clojj^oJjhfi^AniaTOH S, and Profifisgi^njifr.pjwTmt'i^Gift. of Cloth and 
 ('(iwries to the Princes — Parade of Cowries by the Army — Dahoman 
 Cannibals — Decapitation of four Nagos, and gift of six to me— Con- 
 clusion of the Attoh Custom for Gelele 364 
 
 CHAPTER XVir. 
 
 THE WELCOME FROM THE KING. 
 Fea,rful Thunder-storm —Visit to Jegbeh Palace— I am Saluted by the
 
 COXTEXTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Aslianti Company, aud created a General of tliat Corps— Presentation 
 of "Chop" — Delivery of the King's Message by Hahansu — Salute of the 
 Koyal Body-guard — State Banijuet— Native Waiters .... 370 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 THE BUSH-KIXG'S ATTOH CUSTOM. 
 
 The King's Speech — Palaver with the Benazon — Distribution of Cloth for 
 Addokpon — Present to the Builders of the Jegbeh Palace— Execution 
 for Addokpon, and Conclusion of his Attoh Custom— Attoh Custom 
 for Hahansu ........... SZi 
 
 TJic Firing for the Attoh Custom. — Attoli Custom for the Amazons — Baptism 
 of the Roue Compan}'— Sham Fight of the ilale Troops — Parade of 
 Amazons— Geleles Speech — Reproof of the Priests — Allegory of the 
 Liseh— Consecration of Gezu's Calabashes — Caution to the Priests . 377 
 
 CHAPTEE XIX. 
 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 Visit to Abomey— Tlie " Storey House " — Palace Gates of the Kings— The 
 Blacksmiths' Quarter — Description of a Smithy, and native mode of 
 working iron -The Gaou-hwe-gudoh— The Abomey Gate — "Golgotha" 
 — Palaver at Home . . . 383 
 
 First Section of the Sin Kwain Cii-stoin. — Visit to the Dahomey Palace — 
 Gates of the Mothers of the Kings — Tombs of Daho, Aho, and Akabah 
 — Ceremony of Conversing with the Deceased Kings' Spirits — 
 Kpofensu's Palaver 3'JO 
 
 Second Section of the Sin Kwain Custom. — The Kosi Bards — Offerings to the 
 Spii'its of the Three Kings — Prayers to the Deceased Kings — Decapita- 
 tion of a Man for the Spirits — The Blood-Sprinkling— Banquet of the 
 Kings' Si)irits— Return by the Western Route 395 
 
 TJiirdScction of the Sin Kwain Custom. — Agajah's Palace at Abomey — Tombs 
 of Agajah, Tegbwesun, Mj>engiila, and Agongolu — Description of their 
 Monumental Ornaments- Agajah's Spirit House— Tombs of the Mothers 
 of the Pour Kings — Speech ol' the Kosi— A Forgetful Dahkro— A Crafty • 
 Merchant — Offerings to Agajah 307 
 
 CHAPTEPt XX. 
 
 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOxM {continued). 
 
 Fourth Section of the Sin Kwaiu Custom. — Visit to Tegbwesun's Palace — 
 Custom Respecting it — Sacrifice to that ^Monarch — Mahi Trophy from 
 Kenglo — Its History — Circuit of the Northern enceinte on our Return 403 
 
 Fifth Section of the Sin Kwain Custom. — Visit to ilpenj^ula's Palace— Pre- 
 sent of " CUiop " to the King, by tiie Officers' Wives — Mpengula's 
 Spirit House — Curious Ape from Mahi — Offerings to Mpengula — Visit 
 to the Pottery 406 
 
 Si,cth Section of the Siii Kicain Cn.Htom. — Visit to Agongolu's Palace — 
 AViavers— Agongolu's Spirit House — Caught Napping — Driver Ants, 
 and their Habits 409 
 
 Seventh Section of the Sm Kwain Custom. — Sacrifice of a Nago for .Agongolu 
 — Gezu's Spirit House — Sacrifice of Three Victims, and Conclusion of 
 the Sin Kwain Custom iVl 
 
 I
 
 CONTENTS. xix 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 THE AXLIN CUSTOM, AND THE PAYMENT OF THE TRIBUTE. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Tlic Anliii Custom. — Dance of Princes — Ballet of Aildokpon's Company — 
 Akhosii's Procession — His Amazonian Procession — Addokpon's Proces- 
 sions for the Anlin — The " Lake of Blood"'— Sacrifices for the Anlin 
 Custom, and Conclusion . . . . . . . . .41-1 
 
 The Payment of the Tribute. — Dance of Princes — Payment of Cowries by the 
 Ministers— Fetiche Ecstasy — A DahomanBox of Pandora — A Drunken 
 Deity — New Fetiche Irons and their Consecration — Apotheosis of 
 Gezu . 417 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE AZAN-GBEH, OE GUN CUSTOM. 
 
 Origin of this Custom — Trial of Defaulting Soldiers— Speech of Gelele — Pro- 
 cession of Captains — Jegbeli Palace — Gelele's Spirit House — Allegory 
 of the Silver Ornaments— Present of Cowries to the People by the 
 King's Spirit — Splendid Pavilion — Drinking the King's Health— The 
 Firing to the Palaces from Jegbeh — Song of the Kosi — Sacrifice to 
 Gelele's Familiar Spirit — Presents of "Chop" — Allegory of the Gun 
 and Hoe, and of the Frog and Pond Calabashes — Distribution of Dag- \^ 
 gers to the Ministers — Firing for Addokpon — Distribution of Cowries 
 — Procession of Cowries — Ceremony of Breaking Cankies— Horrible 
 Fetiche— Conclusion of the Annual Custom 421 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE FINAL LEVEE. 
 
 Private Visit to the King at Jegbeh — The King's wishes with regard to the 
 Ambassadors — I am "Passed" at Last — Presents from Gelele— The 
 Bullet Ceremony — I am created a Prince — Visit to Gezu's Tomb — 
 Skvll Trophy — Legends of the Ornaments — Tombs of Gezu's Mothers — 
 
 Visit to the Coomassie Palace— Private Apartments and State Bed 
 
 room of the King— Visit to the Benazon — A Dahoman Bride — Native 
 Book-keeping — Hahansu's Water-Sprinkling — His Fetiche House — 
 Grand Farewell Ceremony, and Arrival at Whydah .... 432 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 ' . THE DAHOMAN CONSTITUTION. 
 
 Duality of the Dahoman Monarchs — Despotism of the King — Curious 
 
 Laws — The Army — Its Divisions — Officers of State — Military Tactics . 443 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 V THE AMAZONS. 
 
 Origin of the Amazons — How Eccnuted — Their Panks — Their Titles — " Onr 
 
 Mothers " — Female Soldiers of Civilized Nations .... 454
 
 XX CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE DAHOMAN RELIGION. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 General Ignorance of the Religions of Savage Nations— Man — Kutomeu— 
 The Bassajeh — Fatalism — A Journey to Spirit Land — Fetichism — 
 Danh — Ophiolatry — Alinbodun — Hu — Kheviosoh — The Bo-Fetiche — 
 Legba — Minor Deities — Afa — Tabooed Food — The Priesthood — 
 Ecstasy 460 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. 
 
 Character of the Dahomans — Their Subtlety — Fallacy of the common belief 
 in their Affection — A Plea for Darwinism — What is a Negro ? — His 
 Beau Ideal — How to Civilise Him — Albinoism— Dress — National Tat- 
 tooings — Asphalted Negroes— Food — Aromatic Sauce — Agriculture — 
 Weaving — Architecture — Furniture — Marriage Ceremony — Funerals — 
 Zoology / . . 481 
 
 CHAPTER XXYIII. 
 
 CONCLUSION. t 
 
 Reception by the Whydah Caboceers — More Delay — Punishment for Arson 
 
 — Start for England — Arrival 506 
 
 APPENDIX.— THE ASHANTEES 511 
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAN WORDS AND TITLES . . . .515
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS. 
 
 — ♦ — 
 
 PAGE 
 
 1. THE EECEPTION AT KANA {Coloured Lithograph) . Frontispiece 
 
 2. A CAPSIZE OFF WHYDAH 7 
 
 3. THE SNAKE TEMPLE ... 55 
 
 4. RECEPTION AT KANA 128 
 
 5. A DAHOMAN LABOTJEER 162 
 
 6. THE SO-SIN PAVILIONS 189 
 
 7. THE JAW UMBRELLA, GELELE's STOOL, GUNS, STICKS, SWORDS, 
 
 ETC 216 
 
 8. THE SO-SIN VICTIMS 241 
 
 9. PROCESSION OF MINISTERS [Coloured Lithofjraph) . . . 248 
 
 10. THE TALL DANCERS 264 
 
 11. A MAHI VILLAGE 319 
 
 12. VICTIMS FOR THE ATTOH CUSTOM [Coloured Lithograph) . 338 
 
 13. THE TOKPON 353 
 
 14. TOMBS OF DAHO, AHO, AND AKABAH 392 
 
 15. TOMBS OF AGAJAH, TEGBWESUN, MPENGULA, AND AGONGOLU . 399 
 
 16. THE "LAKE OF BLOOD " 416 
 
 17. TOMB OF KING GEZU 437 
 
 18. THE AMAZONIAN ELEPHANT HUNTERS 457 
 
 19. PRINCE HAHANSU'S FETICHE-HOUSE 463 
 
 20. DAHOMAIf WOMEN SPINNING COTTON 495
 
 'I 
 
 I
 
 DAHOMEY AS IT IS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 AKRIVAL IN DAHOMEY. 
 
 Arrival at Whydah— Its appearance — Exciting' landing — Walk to Whydah — 
 The custom house— Zumbogi — Entrance to Whydah — Visit to Quinun — 
 Policemen — Punishment of soldiers — Ceremony of entering a vessel — 
 Musical instruments. 
 
 Six o'clock on the morning of "Wednesday, July IQtli, 1871, 
 found the little brig Bryn-y-mor slowly creeping along abreast of 
 that clump of cotton-trees, so well known to traders fi'equenting 
 the " Bights," which is somewhat erroneously called Mount 
 Pulloy. 
 
 The horizon was still clouded with the haze that ever accom- 
 panies the land breeze, and borne on its gentle breath came the 
 earthy, mildewy smell of the decomposing vegetable matter in the 
 lagoons which run parallel to the coast for miles ; while the 
 hollow roar of the surf beating with relentless fury upon the 
 sandy shore warned us that we should in all probability be 
 detained on board for that day at least. 
 
 As the sun rose higher in the heavens, and by his genial beams 
 dispersed the mists, we discovered the same flat, monotonous coast 
 which had wearied us for days past since leaving Accra. A long, 
 unchanging line of olive green, broken hero and there by a soli- 
 tary palm or cotton-tree rising above the general level and 
 
 B
 
 2 AERIVAL IX DAHOMEY. CHAP. I. 
 
 occasionally relieved by a rift, destitute of vegetation, was all tliat 
 could be seen from the offing ; thougli, as we occasionally drew 
 nearer the shore, a long strip of bright yellow sand seemed to rise 
 out of the bosom of the dark grey sea, while a sudden streak of 
 gleaming, dazzling white foam, and a dull, hollow booming sound 
 marked out the place of rupture of some huge billow. 
 
 As we gently sailed along, favoured by the current, Captain 
 Williams was on the alert to catch the first ghmpse of the 
 shipping in Whydah roads, the great Liverpool of the notorious 
 Kingdom of Dahomey, where we expected to anchor about ten 
 o'clock. 
 
 As the morning drew on, the land-breeze, ever fickle, gradually 
 died away, and we fully expected to be obliged to let go our 
 anchor ere arriving at our destination ; hence we anxiously took 
 cross bearings of the more conspicuous trees on the beach to 
 ascertain if we were moving east or west. At length the white 
 gable of ]Messrs. Swanzy's office on the beach, rising as it were 
 out of nothing, induced us to hold on a little longer in hopes of 
 being able to " fetch " our anchorage. 
 
 Nor were we doomed to disappointment ; for the breeze 
 freshened a little and our sails again bellied out, while the moving 
 landscape on our beam and the arrow-headed ripple from our 
 bows showed us that we were still going ahead. 
 
 The factories and oil sheds on Whydah beach now appeared, 
 and two or three patches of fog, somewhat darker than the rest, 
 which had attracted our attention for some time, now resolved 
 themselves into a number of ships, lying, or rather rolling, at 
 anchor. 
 
 Up went our ensign and house-flag, and our glasses were at 
 once put in requisition to pick out the "Astarte," our consort, 
 under whose stern we intended to bring up. 
 
 Soon we were off the old slave barracoons, about two miles 
 to the westward of Whydah, once kept under constant surveillance 
 by Her Majesty's cruisers, but now transformed into powder stores 
 for a French house. 
 
 i.
 
 CHAP. I. THE "SEA TOO FULL." 3 
 
 At length the "Astarte's" taut masts and man-o'-war- looking 
 yards were descried, and soon her white house flag fluttered to the 
 truck followed by her ensign, which was immediately dipped in 
 welcoming recognition of our vessel. 
 
 Scarcely had our cable rattled out at the hawse hole, than the 
 fitful breeze died away, and the signal "Send for your letters," 
 hoisted at our peak, hung listless and drooping. 
 
 A surf-boat, called here a " canoe," soon came alongside, and 
 the "bo's'n," after the usual "Mornin', cap'n," told us that the 
 " sea too full " for us to go ashore ; and the dripping condition of 
 himself and his men fully testified that the sea was at any rate 
 "full enough " to run over him and his canoe. 
 
 After writing our letters, and giving the bo's'n and his noisy 
 crew a " dash " or present of rum, they took their departure, and 
 we anxiously watched their passage through the surf. 
 
 As they neared the first or outer line of breakers, they alter- 
 nately appeared and disappeared, as they were carried up and 
 down on the heavy swell. At length we missed them, and a row 
 of darkies running along the beach and making frantic gestures 
 with their arms, showed us that the canoe was going in through 
 the surf. We soon had the pleasure of seeing the paddles thrown 
 on to the beach, as the boat, carried along by the inner breaker, 
 was borne high up on the sloping beach. 
 
 For the following eight days we were detained on board in 
 consequence of the heavy surf on the beach, which efiectually 
 " tabooed " our landing. The weather was cold, wet, and cheer- 
 less in the extreme, reminding one of a London November more 
 than an African July. The ship appeared to have discovered the 
 secret of perpetual motion, for she pitched and rolled, curvetted 
 and " bucked," until we expected her to try a revolution on her 
 own. axis as a finale to her terpsichorean exploits. 
 
 Every morning we saw to our disgust the ensign flying on 
 Messrs. Swanzy's ofiice, which was the signal for a bad surf 
 unsafe for landing. Leaving us endeavouring to drive away ennui 
 by fruitless attempts at dredging and fishing, I will attempt a 
 
 E 2
 
 4 ARRIVAL IN DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 description of tlie beacli town of Whydali, as viewed from tlie 
 shipping. 
 
 A long ridge of sand, capped with a straggling line of buildings, 
 with only a few trees to relieve the monotony, is not a very 
 imposing picture to present of the principal port of a kingdom. 
 
 At the eastern end is the whitewashed iron clerks' office of 
 Messrs. Swanzy's house, backed up by the brown thatched roofs 
 of the storehouses, and a flagstaff in rear. Between this and the 
 next factory is another flagstaff, whose topmast slopes at a con- 
 siderable angle from the perpendicular, and at the foot a mob of 
 salt gatherers are pursuing their vocation. A few more thatched 
 sheds succeed, and then our eye rests upon a spot where there is 
 at least some attempt at the picturesque. It is the office of 
 one of the French houses with a red-tiled roof, the front yard 
 surrounded by a whitewashed wall, and the gate hung from 
 blackened posts. "Within the yard are several palm-trees, whose 
 feathery heads of vivid green form an agreeable contrast to the 
 dingy brown roofs of the stores, and high over all floats the 
 gaudy tricolor. We might have guessed at the nationality 
 without the aid of the flag, for go where you will, no sooner does 
 the Frenchman set his foot in a country, than he surrounds him- 
 self with evidences of his taste for the beautiful, either by planting 
 trees round his house or store, by the cultivation of a garden, or 
 in the general arrangement of his dwelling, betokening an ever 
 present idea of something beyond the mere necessaries of the 
 case, that shall testify to the owner's appreciation of the accesso- 
 ries of civiHsation. Compare it with, the dwelling of an Eng- 
 lishman — substantial, comfortable, adapted to all the exigences 
 of trade it always is ; but when once a shelter for himself and 
 goods is erected, how seldom does he ever attempt anything 
 beyond. 
 
 Brown-roofed stores again succeed this oasis, some breaking the 
 sameness by presenting their gables to the sea. The whole line 
 extends about three quarters of a mile along the beach, and a 
 more desolate, wretched-looking place can scarcely be imagined.
 
 \ 
 
 CHAP. I. WHYDAH EEACH TOWN. g 
 
 Even seen in briglit sunshine it is dreary, but when viewed tlirougli 
 drizzling rain, against a background of leaden-coloured sky, tlie 
 prospect is cheerless in the extreme. 
 
 At length the weather changed and we prepared to land. 
 Captain Williams and I took our places in the bow of the boat 
 sent alongside, and we were soon on our way to the beach. The 
 canoe-men kept stroke by singing extempore songs, often at the 
 expense of the passengers, occasionally breaking the monotony by 
 a hissing through their teeth "a la stablemen," as they dipped 
 their paddles into the water. Sometimes a canoe-man, anxious 
 to show his prowess, would catch up some of the water on the 
 blade of his paddle, and send it far astern by a stroke of his 
 vigorous arm. 
 
 On nearing the outer breaker the swell visibly increased, and 
 hill and dale of greenish water rapidly succeeded each other. 
 The bo's'n, who steered, stood up in the stern sheets, and with 
 anxious eye watched each roller as it came on, the boat being kept 
 stationary by back strokes of the paddles, thus allowing each swell 
 to run under us. After a little delay, his experienced eye 
 detected a roller somewhat less formidable than the rest, and we 
 prepared to go in upon it. As we rose upon its back the canoe 
 was urged forwaid by vigorous strokes, and the canoe-men were 
 kept up to their work by the excited shouts of the bo's'n, who, 
 with his long steering-oar, kept the boat end on. Soon the roller, 
 now piled up into an almost vertical wall of water, begins to curl 
 its briny head. Now is the exciting time ; if not far enough on 
 the roller we shall be deluged by the succeeding one, and if too 
 far on this, we shall be tossed about like a cork on its foamy 
 fragments ; or, if lucky enough to escape a capsize, we are sure of 
 a thorough wetting, and its inevitable consequence in this climate 
 — an attack of fever. 
 
 The watery hill upon whose back we rode seemed suddenly to 
 shine out first into violet, then into green, and finally into snowy 
 white foam, as it tumbled over with maddening fury. "With a 
 crash and roar deafening us for an instant, we found ourselves 
 
 lU
 
 6 ARRIVAL IN DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 precipitated as it were from its summit, and for an instant 
 scarcely knew whether we were o)i or loidcr the foam, which, 
 seething like a boiling cauldron, leapt over the sides of the boat 
 as if eager to secure its prey. Fate, however, was propitious, 
 and although we were hurried along by an avalanche of hissing 
 water, our trusty bo's'n, amidst shouts and frantic gestures to his 
 sable crew, managed to keep our boat more or less stern on. 
 
 This outer breaker owes its formidable size to a bar of sand 
 which extends parallel to the beach, and shifts its position from 
 time to time. In fine weather it acts as a breakwater, but when 
 the surf is heav}' it causes an immense breaker to accumulate 
 upon it. 
 
 "Within the outer line of surf is a lane of comparatively still 
 water, across which the spent breakers continually send moving 
 terraces of seething water ; the detritus, as it were, of the aqueous 
 escarpment of the open sea. Along this lane boats can paddle 
 without risk of capsizing ; but should the unfortunate boatman be 
 overturned in passing over the outer wall of surf, he has to run 
 the gauntlet between turbulent billows on the one hand, and 
 voracious sharks on the other. These latter monsters instinc- 
 tively cruise up and down within the outer breaker ; and often- 
 times a death yell, heard clearly above the roar of the surf, is the 
 requiem of an ill-starred canoe-man, who, despite the charms he 
 carried in his hair, has been snapped up by one of these tigers of 
 the deep. 
 
 In the slave-trading times the sharks were well fed. The boats 
 were crowded with the unfortunate captives heavily manacled, 
 and capsizes were frequent. The slaves being unable to swim, 
 loaded as they were, became an easy prey, for the boatmen 
 never attempted a rescue, but returned at once to the beach 
 for a fresh cargo. So daring did the sharks become that they 
 would frequently, as they do occasionally even now, bite off 
 pieces of the paddles, and swim in the boat's wake, looking 
 out with their small, green, blood-thirsty eyes, for a meal of 
 himian flesh.
 
 l"^
 
 CHAP. I. DANGERS OF THE SUEF. 7 
 
 After crossing this belt of death, we had to surmount two other 
 breakers, and looking out for a " smooth," were borne along at 
 railway speed by the rushing downpour of the innermost one. 
 As we passed through it, we stood up in the boat ready to jump 
 into the arms of the beachmen who crowded down to assist 
 us to land. 
 
 With a shock, as if every timber in the boat were broken, 
 the bow struck the sand ; the beachmen seized and carried us 
 beyond the reach of the succeeding wave, which tossed the 
 lightened boat several feet higher up the steep beach, to the 
 imminent peril of the legs of the canoe -men, and at last we 
 found ourselves safe, and comparatively dry, in the kingdom of 
 Dahomey. 
 
 The prospect on landing is not more inviting than when seen 
 from the ofl&ng. The beach is a mere bank of sand, about twenty 
 feet high, and where not saturated by the water, is so loose that 
 we sink over our boots at every step. A walk of a few miles on 
 such a road would knock up any European. The summit is 
 covered with various salsolaceous plants, with flowers of pink and 
 yellow dotted here and there, and a few stunted bushes are 
 scattered at intervals. 
 
 The beach-town consists almost exclusively of the store-houses 
 of the various merchants, and the dwelling-houses of the king's 
 custom-house officers and fishermen. No white man is permitted 
 to sleep on the beach, except upon very special occasions, their 
 property being committed to the charge of the king's people for 
 the night. 
 
 The king's agent, Quinun, had sent down an escort for me for 
 several days past, but as the sea still continued high they had 
 concluded that I would not land on that day, and had gone back 
 to the upper town. As walking was out of the question, I 
 impressed a dozen men to carry my luggage, and, mounting on the 
 shoulders of two of the strongest, proceeded in that dignified posi- 
 tion to Whydah, much after the fashion of Sindbad the Sailor. 
 
 A walk of a few hundred yards over loose sand brought us to
 
 AERIVAL IX DAHOMEY. chat. i. 
 
 tlie level of the lagoon, at this time of tlie year about 500 yards 
 wide from dry land to dry land, but on the coast side for nearly 
 200 yards the water is only a few inches deep, with a bottom of 
 slimy black mud. On passing this marsh the water suddenly 
 deepens to about three feet, although in the dry season it exceeds 
 seven, as it derives its waters from the reedy lakes about Porto 
 Seguro, which extend northwards, and are fed by the rains which 
 
 V fall there after they have ceased near "Whydah. Numerous low 
 aits, haunted by numbers of alligators, and covered with tall 
 reeds, are dotted here and there. The lagoon abounds in fish 
 and oysters, the empty shells of which are seen heaped up on 
 every side preparatory to their being burnt to procure lime for 
 whitewash. Salt is collected, but is too dirty for European use, 
 although considerable quantities are carried into the interior. 
 
 To the east a large war-gate extended across the lagoon, 
 leaving only a narrow passage about four feet wide in the centre. 
 It was constructed of poles stuck into the bottom and latticed 
 together with bamboo. Every boat passing through this gate has 
 
 \to pay a bottle of rum as toll. The central passage is closed after 
 sundown by a bar and lock of native workmanship. 
 
 My passage across the deepest part of the lagoon was made on 
 the head of a stalwart fellow, whilst four others held my legs 
 above the water so that I reclined as it were on the heads and 
 arms of the waders. No en\'iable position — for the least slip on 
 the shmy bottom, and we should all have had a bath in its 
 Stygian waters. 
 
 Arrived at the north side of the lagoon we passed by the 
 
 t custom house or Denun, which is situated at the gates of every 
 important town in the country. This one is known as Ge-sin-nun, 
 i. e. salt-water-side mouth or gate. It is a dirty hovel of bamboos 
 and mats thatched -^-ith grass, and surrounded with the debris of 
 the meals of many a day past. A motley group of porters, 
 fishermen, salt -gatherers, and idlers of both sexes were lying in 
 every possible attitude of laziness, the women having, exposed for 
 sale, pinches of salt, eatables, or firewood. All were talking and
 
 CHAP. I. THE « CUSTOM HOUSE." 9 
 
 passing remarks in what Captain Burton very happily terms 
 "Billingsgate." Conspicuous among this wretchcd-looldng 
 throng hy reason of his extra coating of dirt was the king's toll 
 collector. The duties of this officer are to collect toll from hoats 
 passing along the lagoon, and upon goods on transit to the beach. 
 He has also to examine the " passports " of all strangers leaving 
 Whydah, to see if any more are leaving than are denoted by the 
 permit, which generally consists of a stick with a notch on it for / 
 every person. It is carried by one man, and another bears a 
 corresponding number of stones tied up in a rag. 
 
 Although the lagoon swarms with alligators above and below 
 the ferry, they appear to shun what would appear to be their 
 best hunting-ground, for accidents are comparatively unfrequent. 
 Across the narrow path beyond Gc-sin-nun, a kind of arch of 
 bamboo was erected, fi'om the centre of which an unfortunate cock 
 was dangling, and shedding perfume on the breeze. This, with a 
 bunch or two of feathers, is fetiche to detect the passing under of 
 any evil person who may have a design against the Government. 
 Beyond this hamlet, a low swampy district extends for about two 
 miles, the road being kept clear of the grass and reeds which, 
 taller than ourselves, shut in the view on either side. The oozy 
 soil, a black alluvium, exhaled a foetid odour as it was stirred up 
 by the feet of the men. Numerous black and white spotted 
 kingfishers were poising themselves over the patches of water, 
 occasionally dropping Hke stones on to some fish or batrachian, 
 but not always with a successful issue, for I noticed one miss its 
 aim three times in succession. 
 
 On an oasis in this swamp the half-way village of Zumhogi is 
 situated, consisting of about a hundred huts, each with its 
 protecting devil or saint, whichever be the more appropriate 
 title. In the centre of the hamlet, in an open space, is \ 
 a shed with a conical roof of thatch. Under this primitive 
 shelter is a fetiche-god, made of red clay or sicish, as it is 
 called on the Gold Coast, fashioned into something like a squat 
 human figure with a huge gaping mouth, having cowries stuck
 
 10 ARRIVAL IN DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 in for teeth, and necklaces of the Sayan, a shrub whose effi- 
 cacy is marvellous, — if we are to believe the priests. A leaf 
 or two strung round the neck will ensure the lucky wearer 
 from execution, and if fixed to a gun will prevent its 
 bursting. It is generally called by Europeans " Thunder bush," 
 as it is extensively used in the ceremonials attendant upon the 
 worship of Kheryosoh, the thunder god. The image is a woman's 
 fetiche, and if she is childless, she smears it with palm oil and 
 ground maize mingled with the blood of a fowl. A small 
 quantity is placed in a little earthen saucer set before the image 
 for the akrnsu, or vultui'e, supposed to be the familiar of all the 
 deities. This offering is a certain cure for barrenness ; and I 
 suppose the woman has twins the next day. 
 
 The head fetiche priest came out and saluted by snapping 
 fingers with us three times, after which, he filliped his little 
 fingers and thumbs together a like number of times. He was 
 accompanied by his lace-ho-sonu, or umbrella bearer. The 
 possession of this article always denotes rank in Dahomey, and 
 many are very splendid afiairs, though the present one was a 
 shabby structure of blue baft and white cotton, with plenty of 
 holes about it, no doubt to assist the ventilation. This tent in 
 miniature was brought out, and we were honoured with a seat on 
 a wooden stool, much resembling those in vogue on the Gold 
 Coast, but higher. His wives then brought water " to cool our 
 hearts," after which rum and Kqueurs, of most villanous decoction, 
 and palm wine, were handed about. 
 
 It is the custom for the host to taste of everything in the 
 presence of his guest, before ofi'ering it to him, as a guarantee 
 that there is no poison in the food. The guest, if a white man, 
 is only expected to touch the liquid with his lips, after wliich he 
 passes it to one of his servants, wh©, nothing loth, swills it off at a 
 single gulp, always on bended knees. Right glad was I to avail 
 myself of this custom, and may he be held up to everlasting 
 infamy who decrees its abolition. The priest was suffering from a 
 ■^-iolcnt influenza, and had the vilest set of teeth I ever saw.
 
 / 
 
 CHAP. I. A CONVENIENT CUSTOM. 11 
 
 which, coupled with the fact of his chemng tobacco, rendered the 
 flavour of his lips anything but a savoury addition. 
 
 After a tedious adieu, which consisted in my receiving a 
 blessing from the priest and more snapping of fingers, I proceeded 
 on my way. Scarcely was I out of the presence of this rehgious 
 functionary than one of his servants came up and asked me if I 
 would give his master a "dash." I peremptorily declined, 
 resolving to commence to undermine this universal practice of 
 levying black-mail upon every traveller, by a refusal from the 
 beginning. Would that I had been able to carry out my purpose 
 to the end ! 
 
 Beyond Zumbogi there is another swamp similar to that 
 already described, but the reeds are interspersed with clumps of 
 bracken and fern that reminded me very forcibly of some I had 
 seen growing in the parks in far-off England. 
 
 A mile of this unwholesome fever-breeding flat brings us to 
 the end of the swamp, and we emerge on to a sandy tract, the 
 sides of which are hedged in with bushes covered with many- 
 hued flowers. After about a mile we enter the celebrated 
 district of Gongi, and soon arrive at a dwarf ficus known to 
 all traders as the " Captain's Tree," where the ceremony of 
 " entering" a ship is performed. 
 
 Whydah, as seen from the Captain's Tree, is a picturesque 
 town, the various factories peeping through the trees, some with 
 red-tiled roofs, pleasantly relieving the sombre green of the cotton 
 trees. The district around is under cultivation, the crops being 
 chiefly yams and maize, each field being divided from its neigh- {/ 
 hours by a narrow footpath, not unfrcquently edged with prickly 
 pears, and none ^^ithout its fetiche pot to ensure a prolific crop. 
 Truly famine should be unknown in a land where every field is 
 under the especial protection of a deity ! 
 
 The promise of a pretty town, however, is by no means realised 
 on a nearer approach. The road, twenty feet wide at the tree, 
 gradually narrows and slopes towards the town. Soon travelling 
 becomes difficult as the surface becomes worn into deep ruts by
 
 12 AERIVAL IX DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 the rains, and my carriers twist and turn in all directions to select 
 the levellest spots. Close to the town the road is a mere ditch, 
 the banks of which are strewn with maize stalks, rotten fruit, and 
 filth of all desci'iptions ; amidst which pigs, fowls, and children 
 revel unmolested. This is the main entrance to Whydah, and 
 leads to the Ajudo-akhi-men or Ajudo market. Here crowds of 
 women were squatting on small square stools of bamboo, made by 
 placing short pieces of the stalk alternately one over the other, 
 and fastening the comers with a peg. These ladies were protected 
 from the sun by a light thatch, much resembling an English stall, 
 under which they displayed their various wares for sale. 
 
 All were shouting and vociferating at the top of their voices 
 the praises of their goods, while scores of naked urchins kept 
 rimning round us to look at the " new white man." 
 
 Opposite the market is the old Brazilian fort, now used as a 
 dwelling-house by one of the De Souza family, while to the right 
 is a kraal containing a herd of oxen belonging to that personage. 
 On the left stands the whitewashed factory of Messrs. F. & A. 
 Swanz}', Avithin whose hospitable walls we were soon comfortably 
 installed under the care of Mr. C. Courteuay, agent, ^jro tem., for 
 Mr. Lyall, then absent in England. 
 
 The view from the windows of the facton,- extends over the distiict 
 "" ' of Gongi, rendered memorable in the history of Dahomey, for it was 
 here that in Agajah's reign, so many battles were fought between 
 the Dahomans and the old Whydahs. A few plantations of yams 
 are visible, but for the most part nothing but a wa-\Tng sea of grass 
 is to be seen, among whose stems deadly malai'ia lurks, armed 
 with fever and dysentery, ready to pounce on its victim. To the 
 left a thicket of oil palms, in the distance, enshrouds the country 
 seat of xlntonio De Souza, while a similar clump shuts in the 
 view on the right. The masts of the shipping rolling at anchor 
 are visible above the trees round Zumbogi, of which nothing 
 can be seen save a faint blue curl of smoke from the wood fires, 
 while the hollow roar of the surf is ever present, as though singing 
 a funeral dirge over the fallen glories of old Whydah.
 
 CHAP. I. CABOCEER QXJINUN. 13 
 
 After a bath, here not a kixury, but a necessity, if health is 
 a consideration, dinner was served up, and we had scarcely con- 
 cluded our repast ere a messenger arrived from Quinun, the 
 king's agent, to say that he wished to see me. Mr. Courtenay 
 and I went to his house, a few yards distant, and immediately 
 adjoining .Messrs. Swanzy's premises. 
 
 Opposite the gate was a shed, beneath which were c lay models of 
 an alligator, a leopard, a man and a bird, all objects of worship to 
 Quinun, and no doubt contributing largely to his success. The 
 man was daubed with red clay and bloody which was also abun- 
 dantly sprinkled about the temple, and acted as an adhesive plaster 
 to a quantity of feathers. This temple stood hard by a deep pit, 
 formed by the excavation of the clay used to build the house, 
 which lay exposed and unprotected by any raiHng. The edge 
 was overgrown by treacherous shrubs, so that a stranger who came 
 along in the dark might easily topple over. I subsequently dis- 
 covered many such pitfalls, not only in Whydah, but also in every 
 town in the country. Having passed this polytheistic Cerberus 
 we were ushered into a courtyard, where, seated upon chairs under 
 an earth-daubed verandah, we awaited the appearance of the 
 ■■Caboceer, who, being the agent of the king in all matters with 
 white people, had amassed a considerable fortune, besides pos- 
 sessing almost regal sway in Whydah. 
 
 There were abundant evidences of the owner's mimicry of 
 European customs. A candle in a stable lantern stood upon a 
 rude table, and on the opposite side of the shed a sofa of native 
 manufacture was placed. In each comer of the roof an Arabic 
 charm was suspended — a sentence or two from the Koran, illu- 
 minated in blue and crimson upon goat-skin. Opposite us, in a 
 comer, were several umbrellas, and above them an American clock 
 — ^not going — truly a prophetic emblem of the utter insignifi- 
 cance of the value of time with the Dahoman. The walls w^ere 
 decorated with gaudy-coloured German prints, vile even for them 
 — and last, but by no means least, was a yellow, sun-spoilt pho- 
 tograph of Quinun in his war paint. Presently a slave brought a 
 
 /
 
 14 ARUIVAL IN DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 calabash from whicli he took decanters of claret, rum, and 
 liqueurs which, together with tumblers, he placed on the table 
 before us. Soon the Caboceer made his appearance, dressed in a 
 loose robe of cotton, in pattern very similar to bedticking. He 
 was a stout, muscular man, about forty years of age, with a round, 
 bullet head, enormous mouth, small, bloodshot eyes, and no neck 
 worth mentioning. His hair was shaved save a single tuft on the 
 left side, and a few hairs formed an apology for a beard. His 
 voice resembled the shout incj of a man afflicted with asthma, 
 being hoarse and husky in the extreme. He was by no means 
 an unpleasant fellow, notwithstanding his somewhat rough ex- 
 terior, and welcomed me in Portuguese with great cordiality. The 
 introductory water was brought, and the usual salutation gone 
 through, after which liquor was poured out with la"\ash extrava- 
 gance by Quinun, who chinked our glasses and drank our healths 
 in loud "vivas." 
 
 He enquired after the health of the Queen, the Emperor of 
 the French, the King of Prussia, and other potentates, mth aU of 
 whom he seemed to imagine I was on the most intimate terms. 
 King William of Gaboon also made similar enquiries when I 
 paid him a visit in 1870. 
 
 He talked on various subjects for nearly two hours, keeping our 
 glasses constantly filled and supplying us with cigars, and con- 
 cluded by saying that the King was very anxious for me to go 
 to Abomcy to talk over various matters which he could not do 
 with a " trade " man. He said that I should be back again to 
 Whydah in eight days. I demurred : for knowing the little 
 value placed upon time by all savage nations, I was unwilling to 
 put myself in the power of the King ; since however interesting a 
 stay at his capital might be, it would totally prevent the prose- 
 cution of natural history, for which purpose I had visited the 
 country. He, however, assured me that I should have full per- 
 mission to collect any objects I might wish, and that if I desired 
 I should be back again in Whydah in eight days. How he ful- 
 filled his promise will be seen hereafter.
 
 CHAP. I. DAHOMAN POLICE. 15 
 
 After a loving-cup Quinun summoned a slave with, a lantern, 
 and accompanied Mr. Courtenay and myself part of the way 
 home, that heing a national method of shomng the greatest 
 respect to a guest. 
 
 As we entered the factory I was struck hy the chirruping of 
 the frogs in the swamp, which could he heard most distinctly at 
 this distance. Round a tree within the yard numerous hats were 
 wheeling a mazy circle, ever and again darting out upon some 
 luckless moth, the wings of which were apparently rejected, as I 
 saw them fluttering to the ground upon several occasions. 
 
 The streets are silent and deserted soon after nightfall, and 
 those who do venture out are preceded hy a slave carrying a • 
 lantern. The King's police exercise a peculiar mode of surveil- 
 lance. They are always in pairs, and proceed at sundown to 
 their respective posts, where they spread their mats and light a 
 small fire. On passing them they start up with a suddenness 
 enough to scare any one, and flash their torches in the faces of the 
 intruders, who, if unknown, are subjected to examination. 
 
 They are all under the orders of an officer called the Kah-icoh, </ 
 who is a caboceer, and visits his myrmidons at uncertain hours, and 
 woe to the unlucky wight who is caught napping ! He is at once 
 bound and chastised on the spot by the patrol, who use their 
 sticks upon the back of their unfortunate brother without mercy. 
 Who knows how soon he may be the recipient of the same 
 bounty ! These policemen are, as a rule, stationed in every prin- 
 cipal street, and are supported, like most of the officers of state 
 in the country, by their wives and slaves, who are presented to 
 them by the King. 
 
 We passed a quiet night, undisturbed by mosquitoes, and were 
 aroused at daybreak by a hubbub beneath the windows of the 
 factory. On looking out to ascertain the origin of the disturbance 
 we found a company of soldiers assembled, who were making pre- 
 parations for a journey to Abomey. They were amusing them- 
 selves by dancing, singing, talking, and catching their comrades' 
 acari. Each carried a miniature stool depending from his haver-
 
 IG AERIYAL IX DAEOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 sack, and at every opportunit)' it was placed on the ground, and 
 the owner squatted upon it. It appeared that certain of them had 
 been guilty of some misdemeanour, for several were bound hand 
 and foot, and placed in rows before a small shed, under which 
 some of the chiefs were seated. They strongly reminded me of 
 trussed fowls in a poulterer's shop. As each man's turn came on 
 he was placed before the judge in a prostrate attitude, his head 
 being bowed to the dust. The pros and cons of the case were 
 entered into by all the bystanders, and as sentence was passed 
 upon each a hand-clapping of applause went through the audience. 
 Presently a man came along bearing a bundle of peeled rods, a 
 few of which he placed near each of the condemned men. "When 
 aU were tried, a number of athletic fellows were selected, and the 
 prisoners were trussed by having their wrists tied together 
 and placed over their knees, beneath which a short stick was 
 passed. Thus fixed they were helpless, with the skin of the back 
 stretched to the utmost, truly a very admirable position for the 
 reception of the corrective. A man with a rod in his hand then 
 stationed himself on either side of each culprit. Blows were 
 then administered alternately by each, the poor wretch yelling 
 out at each stroke. After a few strokes the flesh assumed a gray 
 colour, and presently the blood was drawn. Still the punishment 
 continued until the backs of the wretches were like pieces of raw 
 beef, the blood trickling down to the ground. On the completion of 
 the sentence, which was not a certain number of strokes, but a 
 certain number of rods to be broken over each man's back, the 
 wretched being was turned on his back, and in that lacerated con- 
 dition dragged along the sand. The yells were fearful, and many 
 fainted under the cruel ordeal. I afterwards found that these 
 men had been guilty of stealing some of the King's palm oil. 
 
 As the ceremony of "entering" our vessel was to be performed 
 this morning, I availed myself of the circumstance to witness it. 
 It is necessary that one of the firm to whom the ship is consigned 
 be present, but as custom permits the appointment of any respect- 
 able individual to that office j^ro te?n., the Rev. P. W. Bernasko,
 
 CHAP. I. " EXTEPJNG " OIJE, VESSEL. 17 
 
 a native "Wesleyan missionary, was delegated to represent us on y 
 tlie auspicious occasion. Notice of tlie arrival of tlie vessel liad 
 been given to the Avogan, or governor of the town, immediately 
 her anchor was dropped, and our detention on board had absorbed 
 the four or five days' delay which, according to etiquette, must 
 intervene between the notice and the ceremony, the value of time 
 being totally ignored. About ten o'clock in the morning the 
 Eeverend made his appearance — a short, stumpy, grey-headed^ ' 
 old man : of whom more hereafter. After a glass of brandy, 
 swallowed with the gusto of a connoisseur, he proceeded to the 
 rendezvous, and Captain Williams and I followed. A table 
 covered Avith a glaring Bandana stood in the shadow of the 
 tree, and upon it were several bottles of rum, gin, and liqueurs, 
 the " heart- cooling " water being also conspicuous. A crowd 
 had already collected, amongst which the itinerant vendors of 
 eatables were driving a brisk trade, while numerous urchins 
 flocked round us and criticised our every motion; and one 
 anxious to display his civilization made a charity-school bow, 
 and concluded with "maunin, sah," — his whole stock of English. 
 Presently the noise of drums and horns was heard approaching, 
 and soon a company of soldiers came into \dew. They were 
 dressed in short tunics of striped cotton, with wide arm-holes 
 like waistcoats, fitting loosely to the nock, and confined round 
 the middle by a cartridge-belt of black goat-skin, with ornaments ^ 
 of cowries, beads, &c., upon it. All wore short drawers reaching 
 to the knees, the lower parts being formed of gaudy-coloured 
 material. No soldier, male or female, is allowed to appear in 
 uniform without these jangJiirs, the royal family alone excepted. 
 One regiment, however, as will be hereafter mentioned, wear 
 long white cotton drawers, one leg of which is cut off half-way 
 down the thigh. Shoes or hats there were none, but all carried 
 a haversack containing bullets, flints, gun rags, and other neces- 
 saries, and from the side of this bag hung the private fetiche channs 
 of the owner. All wore beads round their necks, some being 
 content with two or three only, while others had a full necklace.
 
 18 ARBIYAL IX DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 The arms were Tower flint muskets, wliicli were brandished about 
 like clubs as the soldiers danced along the road, performing every 
 gymnastic exercise that could be imagined. Some "would catch ■ 
 hold of their gun by the butt and muzzle and leap over it, 
 bringing the "weapon up beliind the back, after "which they "would 
 extend the gun vertically and pirouette on one foot. Others "VN^ould 
 thro"w their weapon several feet into the air, but "«'oe to the 
 unlucky soldier v.'ho fails to catch it in its descent! Fine and 
 imprisonment are his portion. The standard of the company 
 "v\^as borne by a young fello"w "v\'lio rushed about vrith it as if 
 demented, "v\'a"ving it in our faces and extolling its beauty. It 
 was a square of white calico, with a rude device representing a 
 blue soldier firing a red musket. 
 
 The band followed, the instruments being horns, drums, gong- 
 gongs, and rattles. The horns on this occasion were young 
 bullocks' horns, more rarely small scrivcllos or young elephants' 
 tusks, with a hole near the small end, and '^ played " by means 
 of the left hand, which opens or closes the mouth more or less. 
 I never saw the two-noted bugle, as mentioned by Burton. The 
 music was something like the singing of a young tenor-voiced 
 jackass. Other horns will be mentioned on the occasions on 
 which they were first seen. The drums were of several kinds. 
 Some were mere hollowed tree trunks, shaped something like an 
 Enfield cartridge, the wide end being covered with a goat-skin 
 kept stretched by means of leather thongs. This drum is 
 carried on the head of a man who Avalks in front of the 
 musician, -.who operates on the goat-skin by means of crooked 
 sticks. When not carried, the drum is placed between two 
 crossed sticks, the lower end resting on the grourid while the 
 performer sits astride of his instrument. Another drum, much 
 smaller than the former, is shaped something like an egg-glass, 
 being formed of Uvo calabashes fixed back to back. The goat-skin 
 head is fastened by thongs from the open end, and the instrument 
 is carried under the left arm, which, by compressing or relaxing 
 the thongs, causes the drum to give out vario'iis notes. This is /
 
 CHAP. I. MUSK^AL IXSTRU.MEXTS. 19 
 
 also played witli a crooked stick. Both these drums are some- 
 times plaj'cd with a stick and the hand, and at other times by 
 the hand alone. The notes are very flat and unmusical. 
 
 The gong-gong, or panigau, consists of two gauntlet-shaped 
 bells of different sizes, the one being soldered to the other at an 
 angle of about thirty-five degrees, and the whole fixed to a 
 wooden or iron handle, often carved into the resemblance of a 
 man's fist. They are played by an iron rod about a foot long. 
 There are also single and multiple gong-gongs, each having a 
 particular part assigned to it, but they all give out a flat, dead 
 sound, not unlike the harmony that might be produced in a 
 kitchen if the scullery-maids were to commence playing on the 
 saucepan handles with the pokers. The notes are generally 
 pitched to an interval of a fifth, and the instrument is played in 
 various ways, according to circumstances. If a jKinigan-huii-to, 
 or gong-gong herald, is proclaiming an edict of the king, he 
 commences with ting-ting-ting-ting — ting, tang — ting, tang, the 
 tones being like those of a church clock striking the quarters. 
 ^^Tien playing a tune, the lower and higher notes are usually 
 struck alternately, but sometimes a kind of tune is played — not 
 on a single instrument, but by the performers on each gong- 
 gong striking the note of his instrument when required by the 
 tunc, in the same manner as is done by our bell-ringers. The 
 gong -gong heralds play a conspicuous part in the court of 
 Dahomey. 
 
 The rattles are decanter-shaped gourds, containing stones or 
 oowries, covered with a netting, having one of the vertebroo of a 
 python or other large snake attached to each knot. The gourd 
 is held in the left hand, neck downwards, and shaken in time to 
 the tune ; while, alternately with the shakings, the right hand 
 taps the neck with a small wooden battledore. Occasionally 
 two rattles are played by the same performer, but these are only 
 used in what may be termed the choruses, and are then held 
 bottle downwards. Burton is mistaken with regard to the 
 singers, for vocal and instrumental music are always separated in 
 
 C 2
 
 20 ARRIVAL IX DAHOMEY. chap. i. 
 
 Dahomey, unless the single player on the gong-gong who gives 
 the time can he considered to he an accompanyist. 
 
 After this digression Ave will get hack to the ceremony. Behind 
 the hand came the cabocoer, or captain, of the company, the rule 
 being "juniors first." This officer was dressed similarly to the 
 men, but in addition had a short dagger with a silver hilt, 
 suspended from his left shoulder, and a Scotch glengarry of green 
 cloth, with some device embroidered upon it. Round his neck 
 he wore several strings of beads, from v\^hich several yards of 
 plaited white cotton, something like twine, hung down his back, 
 the emblem of rank as an officer. He danced and whirled 
 round like .his company, and after snapping fingers and saying 
 " maunin " to the Ecverend, squatted down on his hams to the 
 right, with his company around him. His umbrella, a tawdry 
 affaii' of white calico with red heads and blue swords on each 
 alternate lappet, was held over his head, the stick resting on the 
 ground. 
 
 Several other companies with their bands followed, each dis- 
 tinguished by its particular flag, and something pecuhar in the 
 regimental dress. The celebrated English, or blue, company 
 were known by caps of white cotton, with a blue dragon on one 
 side ; and another corps had white caps, with blue or red trefoils 
 sewn on. Some of the civilians belonging to the troops carried 
 axes, made more for show than use. These were iron blades a 
 few inches long, oblong in shape, and stuck into a handle, but 
 instead of projecting at right angles they foi-med an acute angle 
 with the shaft, something like a hoe. Some were content \nth. 
 sticks, with knobs or branches projecting at the required angle, 
 many being ornamented with iron rings or nails stuck into 
 the head in a spiral or other fanciful pattern. Others carried 
 swords like billhooks, with blades terminating in circles, and 
 ornamented with indented figures ; and all — swords, sticks, and 
 guns — were scrupulously clean and bright. 
 
 The company of Chuydatolt, the second in command, fomied 
 by far the most picturesque group. They were armed with bows
 
 CHAP. I. MILITAllY SALUTE. 21 
 
 made of pliant wood, and curved suddenly towards tlio top, 
 where they Avcre strengthened by iron rings. The arrows were 
 contained in black leather quivers slung over the shoulder. 
 
 The '^ place " of the Avogan, who is very old, was taken by one 
 of his dependants, and his company closed the procession itself, 
 although more than a hundred of the rabble followed and exe- 
 cuted various dances on their o^vn account. 
 
 ^^Hien all had arrived, each danced three times round the open 
 space before the tree, from right to left, and then halting before 
 his Reverence, commenced their salute. Their guns, sticks, 
 billhooks, and daggers were raised to a level with their shoulders, 
 and then each cried out, ''Wul-h-h! icul-Ieh! icul-kh! oo-o-eh!" 
 raising their guns to the full extent of their arms, with a yell 
 impossible to describe. Then lowering them to the ground with 
 a grunt, they completed the Dahoman military salute. 
 
 The water being tasted, the Avogan, through the medium of 
 his deputy, prepared to drink the king's health. The grog was 
 poured out, part spilt on the ground, and the toasters standing 
 up, while everybody else was down on their marrow-bones, 
 smothering themselves with dust, the fiery fluid was svfallowed, 
 and the glass turned bottom up, to show there were no heel-taps, 
 which would be a gross insult to his Majesty. During this 
 ceremony guns were fired and the praises of the King shouted 
 out. The health of the Captain was then proposed, followed by 
 that of the head of the firm, after which all the caboceers were 
 toasted in turn, each sipping the liquid and then pouring it down 
 the throat of one of his kneeling soldiers, who meekly rubbed his 
 skull in the dirt. This ended, another procession was formed, 
 juniors first being again the order, and, last of all, the repre- 
 sentative of the house in a hammock carried by two men. This 
 troupe perambulated the town to the music of the various bands, 
 admired by the populace, and upon arrival at the fort of the 
 nation to which the vessel belonged (in our case the English fort), 
 the usual three marches round were performed, and the head 
 men were regaled with more rum and liqueurs within the fort,
 
 V 
 
 22 ARRIVAL IX DAHOMEY. CHAP. I. 
 
 tlie caboccers being by no means so abstemious in private as in 
 public. Samples of the goods on board the vessel -svere then 
 given to the Avogan, -who despatched a messenger to Abomcy 
 with the " stick " of the lirni wrapped in white cloth to acquaint 
 his Majesty of the arrival of the ship. Each firm, and each 
 person of importance, has a stick carved into some fanciful 
 device, "which, when delivered by a messenger, acts in lieu of a 
 visiting card, and as a guarantee of the genuineness of the 
 message. The customs dues were then set aside for the king, but 
 they did not depend upon the tonnage of the vessel or amount of 
 goods landed, but upon the nnmher of )i)asfs to the vessel. A 
 three-masted lugger would therefore pay lieavier dues than a 
 brig of 300 tons. 
 
 More dances, gun fixing, and snapping fingers brought the 
 ceremony to a conclusion, which, with very little difference, has 
 been the same, and performed under the same tree, ever since 
 the Dahomans had intercourse Avith Europeans.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 AX EXCURSION NEAR WHYDAH. 
 
 Visit to Quinun's plantation — Dahoman hammocks and hammock travelling 
 — Vultures — Procession — Pipes — Dahoman equestrians — Zomaihiemen— 
 Cowrie currency — The French fort — Belgravia — French mission — Leg-end 
 of Foil's bombax — A swearing-place — Quinun's farm — -The miraculous 
 berry— Manufacture of palm-oil— John Beecham, alias Prince Bah 
 — Pleasant quarters. 
 
 In the morning I was requested by Quinun to accompany him 
 to his pLantation to witness the trial of some new mortars he had 
 received for the king. As my natural history apparatus had not 
 yet arrived, and collecting Avas out of the question, I determined 
 to go, as the journey would give me an insight into part of the 
 surrounding country, with regard to the zoological specimens it 
 might produce. About seven o'clock in the morning a hammock 
 arrived for my use. This is the usual mode of conveyance 
 throughout the coast. In the present case it consisted of strips 
 of various coloured native cloth, sewn into an oblong-shaped 
 hammock, the threads at the sides being knotted into a fringe, 
 while those at the ends formed the clews. The clews were looped 
 over pegs fixed about three feet from the extremities of a fourteen- 
 foot bamboo stalk {Raphia rhiifera). In Dahomey, the hammock 
 is carried by a man at each end, who protects his head with 
 a roll of cloth, plaited grass, or other soft material. Considerable 
 practice is required to enable a hammock-man to become an. 
 expert in his art. Only the buU-ncckcd ever attain anything 
 like proficiency, but good men will travel at the rate of four miles 
 per hour, and will perform a journey of thirty miles per diem.
 
 24 AN EXCUKSIOX NEAR "WHYDAE. chap. ii. 
 
 Four men are appointed to each hammock, two carrying it at a 
 time, while the others walk alongside, relieving the bearers at 
 short intervals by grasping the clews at either end and putting 
 them on their shoulders, while the pole men hold the bamboo 
 stalk above their head at arm's length. Each pair of pole-men 
 change places at intervals of about a quarter of an hour. On the 
 top of the pole an awning is spread, generally of gailj'-coloured 
 cloth, and the occupant is fully employed in preventing the tall 
 grass and twigs that stretch across the narrow paths outside the 
 to\^'ns, from either tearing the awning or giving him stinging 
 switches across the face. 
 
 On the Gold Coast the hammock has short transverse boards 
 fixed across the pole near the ends, and four men support the 
 ends of these on their heads. The mode of travelling is very 
 tedious, especially with bad hammock-men, as the jolting, 
 although highly conducive to promote the intermingling of the 
 viands in the stomach, is at the same time very suggestive of 
 sea-sickness. Occasionally the pole will slip off the head of one 
 of the carriers, letting the unfortunate passenger come into 
 violent collision with the ground, which generally results in 
 a reminder that he possesses a small of the back and an occiput, 
 besides causing him to give vent to some very strong adjectives 
 and wishes that the bearers might be summarily consigned to a 
 warmer and a deeper clime. 
 
 If any caboceer is allowed to fall, severe punishment is in- 
 flicted upon the delinquent ; while if the king were permitted to 
 touch the earth with his sacred person, a few heads at least 
 would be struck off. 
 
 Embarking in this "bumping car," we started for the caboceer's 
 plantation, tilting the awning on the sunny side " a la mode," 
 Arrived at Quinun's house claret was served out, and after a few 
 minutes' delay we went on to the rendezvous of the procession, 
 without which no great man can stir abroad. 
 
 Our way led through narrow streets, the stench of which was un- 
 bearable even at that early hour, owing to the rubbish from each
 
 CHAP. n. SACRED BIllDS. 25 
 
 house being thrown into the middle of the road, or rather alley ; 
 while a slimy green liquid oozing from a kind of gutter from the 
 walls of the various houses caused the atmosjjhere to become 
 redolent of anything but perfume. Scarcely any of the paths 
 were level, being worn into ruts by the rain, while on the heaps 
 of garbage decomposing in the sun, numerous turkey buzzards 
 were regaling themselves. These birds are held sacred by the 
 natives, and are so fat and lazy as barely to get out of the way to 
 allow any one to pass. There appears to be more than one 
 species ; one, called Ahrasu by the natives, is the Percnopter nigcr 
 of naturaHsts ; while another, the Akhaon of the Whydahs, is 
 j)robably Vultur auricuhris. Any injury done to these birds by a 
 native is visited with punishment upon the offender, besides 
 bringing down the sure and certain vengeance of the god Legba, 
 to whom the bird is sacred. Although held in such reverence by 
 the people, I have shot them frequently, even in the towns, and 
 was never remonstrated with for so doing. ^ 
 
 As we jogged along the hammock-men kept up a monotonous 
 chant, extemporised for the occasion, and doubtless many of the 
 jokes they indulged in were at our expense. Happy is the man 
 who does not " savvey their mouth " upon such occasions. Every 
 acquaintance they met was greeted with " olxo dhu," while we 
 ourselves were often saluted with a " maunin, sah," given in true 
 S'a Leone twang. When we arrived at Quinun's stores, we found 
 about a hundred of his servants assembled, ready to conduct their 
 master to his plantation. After snapping fingers and " watering " 
 with Quinun, we formed into a procession, the post of honour in 
 the rear being given to myself. First, a band of drummers, horn- 
 blowers, and gong-gong men, each playing a tune on his own 
 account, enlivened the road with martial music. Then followed 
 a magistrate, bearing a crooked stick as an emblem of his 
 authority. He was followed by a boy slave carrying his tobacco- 
 pouch and pipe, another of the many insignia of his rank. These 
 pipes {azoquah) are always of native manufacture, made by the 
 Amazons, who formerly enjoyed the monopoly. The bowl is of
 
 2G AX EXCniSION NEAR WIIYDAK. CHAP, ir, 
 
 clay, genci'ally of a reddish yellow, but sometimes black, owing to 
 the presence of manganese. In sbapc it often resembles the 
 ordinary clay pipe of civilisation, but sometimes it is carved into 
 the form of a bird, fish, canoe, or man. The tube is formed of a 
 saltwoo;! stick, about eighteen inches long, peeled white, and 
 rudely carved, and often stained blue-black with indigo. When 
 not in use the pipe is placed in a case of wood, something like two 
 golf-sticks placed side by side, with a sliding lid. The tobacco- 
 pouch is made of tanned goat-skin, dyed in various colours, and 
 large enough to pass muster for a carpet-bag. It is divided into 
 several pockets for tobacco, " azoh^' of which there is rarely more 
 than an ounce, if any; and tinder, ''delajeh,'' made of finely scraped 
 decaying palm-tree wood, which burns with a smell like musty 
 linen, and a few gun-flints. The steel, of native manufacture, is 
 an oblong piece of iron, hardened by being plunged red-hot into 
 cold water, and attached to tbe pouch by a long leathern thong, 
 Avhich secures the bag when it is wrapped round the pipe-case. 
 If a pipe-light is required, a pinch of dekyeh is held beneath 
 the flint by the thumb and finger of the left hand, and the steel 
 is struck against it by the right, to the danger of the knuckles of 
 the inexpert tyro. When a spark is obtained, the smouldering 
 tinder is thrust into the pipe bowl above the tobacco, which, by- 
 the-bye, is generally American leaf. Thousands of short clays 
 are annually sold by the merchants, as both sexes smoke, the old 
 women seeming to prefer a filthy black bowl with a stem about 
 an inch long, so that the smoke is inhaled by the nostrils as well 
 as the mouth. 
 
 After the knight of the pipe, a company of soldiers straggled 
 along, dancing, shouting, and throwing their guns into the air. 
 Next followed Quinun, who was dressed in a striped calico tunic, 
 confined to the waist by a blue and white cricket belt. He wore 
 about a dozen necklaces of various kinds of beads, including the 
 coral string, WDrn only by the nobles. Round his forearm he 
 had several silver and iron armlets, and carried a scimitar-shaped 
 sword. His head was decorated with a broad-brimmed felt hat.
 
 CHAP. II. ZO-MAI-HIE-MEX. 27 
 
 mucli too large for him, Avith a long streamer of scarlet ribbon 
 flying from it. He was mounted sideways on a brown horse, 
 covered with a leather saddle-cloth stuffed with dried grass. The 
 horse was led by a halter of grass rope, Dahoman etiquette not 
 permitting a pace quicker than a walk. Few ride cross-legged, 
 and all are supported on the off-side by an attendant, the rider 
 generally hugging him round the neck, while the groom clasps 
 his master round the waist — truly, a dignified arrangement. 
 Saddles and bridles are unknown, and there are always sufficient 
 attendants about the rider to carry him, horse and all. Beside 
 the caboceer, his umbrella-bcarcr carried a tawdry affair formed 
 of pink cotton, about the size of the top of a loo-table. 
 
 After Quinun, a band, playing quite as well as the one in front, 
 preceded my hammock, and the usual tag-rag and bob-tail brought 
 up the rear. 
 
 Our way lay through a small market on the north-west side of 
 the town, called Zo-mai-hie-men, which means " market without 
 fire." This name was given it by the " Chacha," one of the principal 
 chiefs, of whom more anon, who kept a store of gunpowder in a 
 swish building in the neighbourhood, and would not, in conse- 
 quence, allow any grass to be burnt, or any fires to be lighted 
 within a given radius. This is only a small accessory of the 
 ZohcDic, the principal market, and is established for the con- 
 venience of the residents in the north-west of the town. On the 
 south side of the road, the long swish wall surrounding one of the 
 houses of the Chacha is utilised as a screen from wind and sun. 
 Here groups of vendors, chiefly women, squabble in full chorus. 
 The stock in trade of each person is but small, and in this market 
 there are no booths, but each seller squats on a diminutive stool 
 behind her collection. The principal wares arc raw or cooked 
 provisions, generally displayed in calabashes ; beads, a few pieces 
 of the commonest cotton cloth, water, and firewood. Most of the 
 business is transacted between three and four in the afternoon, 
 when swarms of the female dependants of all classes meet to 
 haggle over their bargains and cheat each other — if they can.
 
 28 AN EXCURSION NEAR WHYDAH. chap. ii. 
 
 Sufficient food for a native's meal can bo procured ready cooked 
 for about three pence. The value of money, however, has suffered 
 considerable diminution during the last twenty years. The medium 
 of exchange among the natives is the cowrie {Cyprcca) Avliich is 
 imported into the country by the European merchants from 
 / Zanzibar. Those are strung on twisted grass stems in strings, 
 / and fifty strings make one " head." At the present time fifty 
 cowries make a string in Whydah, only forty- six in Alladah and 
 Abomey, while the cowries given by the king, wliich are strung 
 by the Amazons, average only about forty to a string. Four 
 heads of cowries are equal to a dollar (4s. 6d.) in "Whydah, and 
 three heads in the interior. At Whydah, therefore, a h^sad is 
 worth Is. IM., and a string about a farthing ; but in every shop 
 there are to be seen plenty of tico-coicrie lots, over wliich the shop- 
 keeper and customer will have as wordy an argument, and con- 
 sume as much tobacco, as over any of the more expensive one- 
 head articles. IS'ot that the vendors seem at all anxious to dis- 
 pose of their goods, for they all appear apathetic and placid as 
 they sit hour after hour, looking very much as the descendants of 
 the witches in Macbeth might be supposed to do if trying their 
 hands at commercial pursuits. Notwithstanding the noisy ex- 
 citement among the buyers, the price of the articles is seldom 
 abated a single cowrie ; but, on the other hand, if " white face " 
 wishes to purchase any article, two or three hundred per cent, is 
 immediately clapped on. 
 
 To the north of this market is the French fort, now transformed 
 into the factory of M. Regis, of Marseilles, and by all means the 
 best looking and most comfortable building in the tovai, — which 
 is nothing more than what is to be expected under such masters. 
 The old fort was destroyed in 1728, during the revolt of the 
 Whydahs under Fosu, in Agajah's reign. They were protected 
 by the Governor, M. WilHams, whose treachery afterwards caused 
 his death. 
 
 The site of the fort was formerly called PcUoo. It is not 
 advantageously chosen, as there is more malaria about this
 
 CHAP. II. THE FREXCn FORT. 21) 
 
 district than anywhere else in the town ; besides which, it is 
 screened from the sea breeze by reason of its low situation, and is, 
 in consequence, very much hotter than the other forts. 
 
 It is rather an extensive establishment, the s^vish wall, about 
 fourteen feet high and four feet thick, with bastions at the angles, 
 enclosing a space of about ten acres. The bastion on the town 
 side — i.e., to the north-east — is fortified with a few guns, most of 
 which are fixtures in the swish and honeycombed to perfection. 
 The wall is protected by a ditch some twenty feet wide and twelve 
 feet deep, but it is choked with weeds and brushwood, — that 
 appearing, indeed, to be the rule in the town. The old draw- 
 bridge is disabled, and the ditch filled up to effect an entrance 
 to the fort. 0\'cr the gateway is a marble tablet, informing 
 whom it may coucerii that the fort was restored by M. Regis in 
 1842. In the south-west bastion is a tall flagstafi", from which 
 the tricolor floats on Sundays, and by means of which tele- 
 graphic communication is kept up with any French vessel that 
 may be lying in the roads. The main building faces the sea, 
 and has a fine terrace in front, constructed over the oil-sheds. It 
 is roofed with red tiles, a wise precaution against the frequent 
 fires, and forms a conspicuous and picturesque object on entering 
 the tovra from the westward. Behind the fort is the district 
 known as the Aiuanjigo, or French Town, inhabited by the 
 descendants of the French slaves and mulattoes, who now number 
 about 600 souls, and enjoy a very unenviable reputation for 
 dishonesty and treachery. 
 
 Leaving the French fort on the right hand, we come to the 
 district of Zo mai hiemen hpota, — i.e., " fire come not to market- 
 hill." This is a kind of Belgravia to Whydah, for here many of 
 the rich BraziHan and Portuguese merchants have built country 
 residences. Zomai House, the residence of Sr. Antonio De Souza, 
 nephew of the Chacha, is built after the European style, but 
 strangely mingled with Dahoman architecture. Beyond is the 
 unfinished mansion of Sr. F. J. Mcdciros, truly a handsome 
 building, -^dth a lofty colonnade, all built of smsh and plaster.
 
 30 AX EXCURSION XEAll WIIYDAII. chap. ii. 
 
 It has a fine garden, as yet in embryo, and is surrounded with, a 
 dry ditch. As we passed by we saw several of the M'orkmen, all 
 slaves, some hea\'ily ironed, sleepily moving about in a listless 
 manner, which, together with their fine condition, proclaimed that 
 service under their master was by no means a hard one. 
 
 Nearly opposite is the establishment of the French Mission, the 
 gable end of the building being ornamented by a black cross. 
 There are only two priests, and they are at present in very bad 
 odour, owing to a report that one of the scholars had died 
 through the effect of chastisement inflicted upon him by one of 
 the fathers. A few scholars are instructed, but as they please 
 themselves whether they attend or stay away from school, the 
 progress in education is anything but encouraging. 
 
 Near the country seat of M. Medeiros are two huge Bombax 
 trees, which are shown to the stranger as monuments of the 
 eternal invincibility of the Dahoman kingdom. The tallest of 
 the two has the following legend attached to it. 
 
 Tlic old AYhydahs, after being expelled from their country by 
 Agajah, made several attempts to regain their homes, as their 
 priests taught them that their kings, to be successful in any 
 undertaking, must be crowned at Savi, the old capital of the 
 ^Vliydahs, about six miles to the N.X.E. of Whydah. One of 
 the bravest of the Dahoman generals, the brother-in-law to the 
 Icing, was Shampo. Tegbwesun, Agajah's successor, became 
 jealous of his fame, and determined to get rid of him. Shampo's 
 sister, Avho was one of the Amazonian chieftains, becoming cogni- 
 zant of the king's intention, gave warning to her brother, who 
 acting upon the suggestion, fled to Popo, where the "\Vhydahs 
 were encamped, and offered to command their army. His pro- 
 posal was immediately accepted, and the Whydahs made several 
 brave attempts to regain their territory under his command. 
 
 In ITG^j the Whydahs again attacked the Dahomans, under 
 the command of Foli (the " Affurey " of Dalziel's History), who 
 was the son of Shampo, then considerably advanced in years. 
 
 At first the Whydahs Averc successful, and repulsed the Daho-
 
 ciiAP. n. FULI'S liOMUAX. SI 
 
 mans, imdor tlioir Avogan, or viceroy, with consideraLlo loss. 
 Baddely, the second in command, a brave officer, attempted 
 to rally the troops, hut was at length compelled to fall hack upon 
 the shelter of the guns of the French fort. The Governor, being 
 alarmed for his own safety, instead of supporting the Dahomans, 
 iired blank cartridges only against the Whydahs, who had already 
 burnt part of the precincts. The object of so doing was to curry 
 favour -^ith the Whydahs in case they were victorious. The 
 Whydahs succeeded in effecting an entrance into the town, and 
 compelled the Dahomans to fly to the bush to the S.E. There 
 is a report that as the Whydahs were passing the English fort 
 one of the soldiers observed through an open window the 
 Governor's mistress, a mulattress who was very fair. Upon 
 this he discharged his musket at her, killing her on the spot. 
 The Governor, M. Goodson, who had hitherto kept strictl}- neutral, 
 immediately levelled the guns of the fort upon the invaders, and 
 the Portuguese seeing the firing followed suit, fearing some 
 treachery. Meanwhile the sub-viceroy had rallied the troops 
 and attacked the Whydahs during the confusion vnth such 
 success, that two out of thirty-two officers alone escaped. Foli, 
 utterly undone with the unexpected disaster, blew out his brains 
 under one of these trees, which in memory of the event is still 
 called Foli-him — i.e., Foil's tree ; and one of the market days, 
 when the principal market is held in Zo-mai, is called Foll- 
 Jiun-fjlo. 
 
 Tegbwesun was overwhelming in his thanks to the Governor, 
 to whose timely aid he attributed the discomfiture of his enemies, 
 and he is still called the king's friend, and styled AJanJan. 
 
 The immediate neighbourhood of Whydah is an undulating 
 plain, covered with long grass, which is burnt before the rains in 
 February. But little of the ground in the vicinity of Whydah 
 is cultivated, the market being principally supplied from Savi. 
 
 A march of about twenty minutes brought us to the Adan- 
 gl)uo-h'i>, a place where the cabocecrs, when leaving the town, 
 take the oath of allegiance to the kins;, and swear that the errand
 
 32 AX EXCURSIOX XEAR WHYDAII. chap. ii. 
 
 tlicy arc upon is not injurious to the sovereign. This is merely a 
 joji, or gallows, A^tli a fetiche of some kind or other hung from 
 the cross-pole, as on the north side of the lagoon. Behind the 
 joji is a rude hovel, Avith a conical roof, beneath which is a huge 
 squat image. These adan-gbuo-ten are placed on every road 
 leading from the principal towns, and no officer is permitted to 
 pass by without taking the oath. 
 
 The ceremony is by no means impressive. "When the advanced 
 guard had arrived at the joji they commenced a dismal chant, and 
 on the cabocecr coming up he dismounted, and throwing himself 
 on his knees, bent his licad to the earth, so that a patch of the 
 red soil adhered to his forehead, after which lie took up a little of 
 the earth in his fingers and threw it on his head ; and, lastly, 
 performed a kind of washing of the arms and neck with the 
 sandy soil. Another prostration and a yelling out of Borl, ah 
 bor/, horl ! which is a form of prayer for the king, and we again 
 started. 
 
 During this time I had been on tlie look-out« to discover the 
 guns, as I had been told that they would be carried in the pro- 
 cession. At length I saw an unfortunate who carried a parcel 
 swathed in matting, and resembling in shape a gigantic tip-cat. 
 As he staggered from side to side under the weight of his bundle, 
 I concluded that he was the bearer of one of the guns, which was 
 disguised by matting, so as to deceive any inquisitive stranger as to 
 the contents of the parcel. As the gun weighed at least 150 lbs. 
 I by no means envied the carrier. This fact of the guns being 
 shrouded from the gaze of the vulgar was the first example of 
 the national secrecy in connection with the king's business ; for 
 although the guns were taken to Abomey by my own escort, the 
 bearers themselves did not know what was the nature of the 
 weighty burden they carried. 
 
 AVc soon after arrived at Quinun's oil plantation, where the 
 bulk of the escort was to remain. The caboceer has here built a 
 small house, at which he delights to entertain the Europeans of 
 AVhydah at a picnic. The house is surrounded by groves of the
 
 CHAP. II. MAKING TALM OIL. 33 
 
 palm-oil tree {Elceia Guineensis), tlie trunks of Avliicli are often 
 decorated with tufts of a lovely fern with fronds eight feet long- 
 drooping gracefully to the earth, their vivid emerald green con- 
 trasting refreshingly with the sombre brown of the tree-trunks 
 upon which they exist. ISTumerous convolvulaceous plants 
 entwined their arms around and above the tree tops, occasionally 
 giving a dead trunk the appearance of being clothed with luxu- 
 riant foliage, while their showy pink and pale brown striped 
 yellow flowers formed a gay accompaniment to their dark green 
 leaves. 
 
 Here, too, were numerous bushes of the SisnaJt, the Samhala of 
 the Gold Coast, where it is known to Europeans as the " miracu- 
 lous berry." It is something like a currant-bush, with a reddish 
 yellow fruit enclosing a large black stone. Its effects are said to 
 be marvellous. If vinegar be given to a man who has tasted 
 some of the berries, ho will, according to ns^itivc report, drink it 
 like water and not perceive the difierence; while a few taken 
 early in the morning Avill impart a peculiar flavour to aU the food 
 eaten during the remainder of the day. Although its effects arc 
 considerably exaggerated, it will impart a nauseous sweetness to 
 water, the effect of which remains for a considerable time upon 
 the palate. 
 
 Around the house were scattered a number of huts, the dwell- 
 ings of the nut-gatherers, who manufacture the palm-oil on the 
 premises. The process of obtaining the oil is as follows. When 
 the nuts are ripe they are about the size of a \\'alnut, of an orange 
 colour, and full of oil. They are gathered and thrown into 
 troughs made by marking off a small area, generally about six 
 feet square, beating the earth smooth with wooden mattocks, 
 and raising a wall of swish about eighteen inches high round the 
 floor thus prepared. When the pit is about one-third full the 
 kernels are extracted from the husk, and a workman, or work- 
 woman, getting into it, slaps the husks with her huge flat feet, 
 as though practising a nigger break-down. This process is 
 continued until the oil and husks are minn-led and smashed into
 
 34 AN EXCURSIOX XEAIl WHYDAH. chap. ii. 
 
 a kind of pudding, when the mass is put into vessels containing 
 water and a fire lighted beneath. The oil separating from the 
 husks rises to the top, and is skimmed oflf into earthen chatties 
 containing about five gallons. The husk is used for tinder and 
 manure, and not unfrequently is twisted up to form lamp wicks. 
 The oil thus obtained is sometimes again clarified and used for 
 cooking purposes ; but the bulk is sold to Europeans and is used 
 in the manufacture of soap, candles, railway grease, and " Dutch 
 butter at one shilling per lb." 
 
 We were here joined by the interpreter living at the English 
 fort, John Beecham, who earns a precarious livelihood by inter- 
 preting for the English. This fellow is a curiosity in his way. 
 Short, stout, with a head like a Dutch cheese, and no neck to 
 speak of, his shoulders appear on a level with his ears, a very com- 
 mon characteristic of the Dahomans, and indeed of all negro races. 
 He was dressed in the European fashion and wore shoes, here one 
 of the principal distinctions of a " white " man ; for by law anv 
 person, though black as ebony, who wears shoes is held to be a 
 " white " man. He speaks tolerably good English, having been 
 educated by the Wesleyan missionaries at Cape Coast Castle. He 
 was taken in early youth from the Mahi, or Makhi, a small tribe 
 to the north, and with five others " dashed " to the "Wesleyans at 
 Cape Coast to be educated, on the condition that one at least 
 should be returned to "VVhydah to act as interpreter to the King. 
 
 On arriving at the mission he gave out that he was a " Prince 
 Bah," a very common stratagem of negro slaves, but his want of 
 blue blood was soon detected. On his return to Abomey with 
 two Mahi girls, the sole survivors of the " dash," he attempted 
 to elope with the latter and set up for himself on the Gold Coast. 
 He was, however, detected in his scheme, and consigned to the 
 tender mercies of the Mcu, who alone has charge of " white " 
 criminals. He Avas imprisoned for some days, and, according to 
 his own account, underwent the greatest agony. He was fed on 
 dry boans and stale cankie (a mess of boiled maize), and forced 
 to sleep on the bare earth, where he suffered excruciating torture
 
 I 
 
 CHAP. II. " PRIXCE BAH." 35 
 
 from the Iwe worm, a parasitic grub that infests mud floors and 
 insinuates itself beneath the skin of persons lying exposed to its 
 attacks. This incarceration, combined with a natural timiditj-, 
 has rendered him a most chicken-hearted fellow, whom subse- 
 quent experience proved to be the most arrant coward to be met 
 with in the country. If requested to do anything his fears repre- 
 sented to be anyway connected with danger, however remote, he 
 would turn green with fright, and invent some paltry excuse for 
 not complying. Burton accuses him of fortifpng himself with 
 Dutch courage ; but ton months' acquaintance with him proved 
 that he seldom, if ever, touched any liquors. Let future travellers 
 beware of John Beecham if they require any special service. Ho 
 was continually gi^^ng me the benefit of his religious instruction, 
 and would lie on his mat and read his Bible aloud for hours, and 
 shutting it up would lie for hours longer, if his vivid fancy raised 
 any ghost of danger to his princely person. 
 
 We then proceeded about a mile beyond the plantation, where 
 a shed had been erected to prove the efficacy of the guns. After 
 firing them a few times, in which the ball flew wide of the mark 
 or passed through the wattling of the shed without leaving any 
 trace, the caboceer declared himself satisfied, and we returned to 
 the plantation. Here we were regaled with tea served up in 
 showy cups and saucers, and a kind of twist bread made by 
 Quinun's head cook, who had been instructed in the art by one of 
 the servants at the French fort. During the refreshment we 
 were entertained by a dance, after which we i-eturned to Whydah 
 by the same road as we took on our way to the plantation. The 
 afternoon was spent in doing the lions of Whydah, to which a 
 future chapter will be devoted. 
 
 D 2
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE WHYDAH LIOXS. 
 
 Boundaries of Dahomey— Its physical geography— Climate — Tornadoes— Mos- 
 quitoes — Harmattan — " The smokes " — The " Doctor " — Heavy surf — 
 Quittah fetichism — Geology of Dahomey— Pluvial epoch — Population — Dis- 
 parity of the sexes — Gre-whe and early history of Whydah— Its divisions^ 
 English fort — Gothic house — Wesleyan mission — Bats — The Avogan's 
 palace — Fearful punishment — The snake temple — "Fire and water" — A 
 wandering deity — Whydah market — Heterogeneous collection — Portuguese 
 fort — Mistaken ideas of missionaries with respect to savage races— Bra- 
 zilian fort — The De Souza family — The Chacha — Immortality— Sr. 
 Jledeiros — The future of Whydah. 
 
 It may, perhaps, be not out of place here to give a shorfe 
 account of the physical geography of Dahomey, as b}- that means - 
 a clearer understanding of the general character of the country 
 will be obtained than by separate descriptions of individual 
 places. 
 
 The Kingdom of Dahomey is generally understood to include 
 the country between the River Volta in Long. 0.56" East, on tho 
 West, and Badagary in Long. 2° 53'' East, on the East, and to 
 extend northwards to the Kong ^fountains, in about 8 deg. Xortli 
 Latitude. It therefore has, according to this estimate, an area of 
 about 15,000 square miles. The actual coast line, however, extends, 
 only from Mount Pulloy, a few miles to the west of Whydah, to. 
 Godome, about ten miles to the eastward of that port. Tho 
 boundaries are very vague, and the jurisdiction of the King is 
 but nominal anywhere except in the district immediately sur-v 
 rounding the capital, so that the extent of country over which 
 the King possesses actual autlicrity may bo roughly estimated 
 at 4,000 square miles. ^
 
 CHAP. III. A TORXADO. 3r 
 
 The climate is in general healthy, and, near the coast, not too 
 Jiot, the average temperature being about 80 deg. F., -wliilc on the 
 Gambia it is about 100 dog. F. This is owing to the exposure of 
 the Bights to the cooling influence of the sea breeze. The season 
 may be divided into four quarters — viz., the summer, the rains, 
 the autumn, and the harmattan. The summer generally com- 
 mences in March, when the heat is greater than at any other 
 season, the maximum being attained about two o'clock in the 
 afternoon. This is the season for dysentery and the unplea- 
 sant sensation known as prickly heat. The prevailing winds in 
 March in the morning are easterly, and during the day south- 
 westerly, while in April westerly and south-westerly winds 
 blow throughout the day and night. The heat at night is 
 intense, the perspiration reeking from every pore ; the thermo- 
 meter being often up to 96 deg. F. 
 
 In May the first rains commence, the season always being 
 marked out by violent storms known as tornadoes, a corruption of 
 the Portuguese travado, a thunderstorm. At this season the 
 atmosphere contains a maximum of ozone. The occurrence of a 
 tornado is always heralded by certain premonitory symptoms. The 
 weather immediately preceding is generally very hot ; but as the 
 storm brews a cold wind springs up, bringing with it a peculiar 
 hazy appearance of the atmosphere. Soon a solitary white cloud 
 is observed high up in the heavens, which gradually extends in 
 an easterly direction, and at the same time assumes the form of 
 an arch stretching over a fourth part of the horizon and shrouding 
 it in a gloom like a funeral pall. The breeze has by this time 
 given way to an unearthly calm, while all nature seems hushed 
 in anticipation of some impending catastrophe. The silence is 
 oppressive ; not a leaf moves, and the insect world itself is awed 
 into perfect stillness. Even the clamour of the market-women 
 is subdued with the continued sensation of apprehension and 
 reverence for the strife of the elements. 
 
 Suddenly a vivid flash of lightning rends the sky, followed by 
 a stupendous crash as if the heavens were destroyed. A rushing
 
 38 THE WHYDAH LIOXS. chap. hi. 
 
 sound succeeds, and in a moment the fierce breatli of the tornado 
 is upon us, sweeping ever3'thing before it, unroofing houses, tear- 
 ing up trees, and whirling slates and tiles from the roofs of the 
 more substantially-erected houses. Oftentimes the flimsy struc- 
 tures of bamboo erected in the bush arc carried away entire, 
 and the whole atmosphere becomes filled with ruin. Huge rain 
 drops follow, which, after pausing for a time as if to gather 
 strength, descend in a furious deluge, resembling a vast sheet 
 rather than a succession of drops of water. The gullies in the 
 streets are soon impetuous torrents, bringing down quantities of 
 the red soil. This heavy rain lasts about a quarter of an hour, 
 and is followed by a gradually diminisliing shower, until in about 
 an hour from the first flash, the sun is again shining, and a dark 
 cloud far away to leeward and a few distant mutterings of thunder 
 are the only aerial signs of the tempest. 
 
 After the tornado the air is most refreshingly cool and 
 exhilarating, the thermometer not unfrequcntly falling fifteen 
 degrees during its continuance. Should a vessel be unfortunately 
 taken unprepared by one of these violent whirlwinds, her masts 
 must inevitably go by the board or she will be capsized. 
 
 In June, there is a short interval of fine weather, followed by 
 the latter rains in July and August. The temperature in these 
 months is at its lowest, averaging 65 degrees Fahrenheit. As 
 a rule more rain falls at new and full moon, when more than 18i- 
 inches have been recorded in twenty-four hours. 
 
 In August, terrific thunderstorms occur, the effects of which 
 are often very destructive. The "Whydahs put themselves under 
 the protection of Kherijosoh, the lightning god, by making pi'csents 
 to the fetiche priests. Mosquitoes and sand-flies abound in this 
 season, so tormenting to the sleeper as to put him into a high 
 fever ere the morning, while the new comer is especially selected 
 as a victim. At Badagary, the natives frequently bury themselves 
 in the sand, and even then their blood-thirsty tormentors will 
 find them out. Tobacco smoke, and green wood burning with a 
 smoke thick enough to choke any other creature, only appear to
 
 CHAP. III. THE HARMATTAX. 39 
 
 give an additional wliet to their appetite, I have been told that 
 a mixture of tar and oil smeared over the body will prevent their 
 onset ; but, ugh ! the remedy is as bad as the disease. There 
 appears to be only one preventive, and that is a sure one — don't 
 go where they exist. 
 
 In September the unhealthy autumnal season sets in, the 
 exodus of the rain being accompanied by a series of tornadoes and 
 severe thunderstorms, as at the change of the monsoons in the 
 East Indies. Vegetation is now in full swing, fruits and grain 
 are gathered, the harvest often yielding a hundred fold to the 
 rude cultivation, and a few leaves wither and fall to the ground. 
 Decomposition is likewise rife ; and stimulated by heat and 
 moisture, malaria is developed in profusion, the fruitful parent of 
 fever. Guinea worm is also troublesome, and in countries where 
 it is endemic, goitre commences. 
 
 November generally goes out with the commencement of the 
 Harmattan, which usually lasts about three months. The term 
 is said to be derived from the Fantee aliamman, to blow, and ta, 
 grease ; because at this season the air is so dry and parching that 
 the natives preserve the skin from cracking by copious applications 
 of grease, generally the commonest of European pomades, odori- 
 ferous with the vilest patchouli. The Harmattan is called Yeou, 
 and is supposed to be a deity who is allowed to visit the world at 
 certain seasons. He has a keeper, Yeouhuntoh, who, before 
 releasing his charge, oils his body to protect it from the Yeou, and 
 then opens the gate of the cave within which the Dahoman 
 iEolus is confined. This wind blows along the whole northern 
 shores of the gulf of Guinea, being strongest on the western coast, 
 and gradually diminishing in intensity as we approach the head 
 of the Gulf. Its approach is generally foretold by a thick fog, 
 which often extends ten miles out to sea, and is known to 
 European residents on the coast as the " smokes." The smokes 
 are not, however, dull brown like a London fog, but pure white, the 
 sun sometimes appearing at mid-day with a white light like that 
 of the full moon. The dry parched breath of the Harraattun
 
 40 THE WIIYDAII LIONS. chap. hi. 
 
 coming from tlie north-east licks up every trace of moisture. 
 The leaves of the trees drooj), and drying up become crisp, 
 thereby being prevented from breeding malaria by their putrefac- 
 tion. All young plants are dried up ; the long grass -withers and 
 becomes converted into hay, and is then fired by the natives to 
 ensure a fresh crop in the following rains. Even evergreens 
 suffer from the effect of the moisture-devouring wind, their leaves 
 becoming flaccid and easily reduced to dust by the fingers. The 
 earth cracks, and doors and furniture split and open out, warping 
 into grotesque shapes. The effect upon the system is unpleasant; 
 the skin chaps, and the face has the feeling of being di'awn up. 
 The lips are parched and the skin peels off them, while an 
 intolerable thii'st can scarcely be allayed by the most copious 
 potations of iced claret. The Harmattan usually blows for two or 
 three days at a time, and is succeeded by an interval of perhaps 
 a week of winds from the south or west. The Harmattan is a 
 cold, dry wind, and its season is justly considered to be the 
 healthiest on the coast. Fevers are of rare occurrence, all 
 malignant diseases abate, small-pox quickly heals, and gout and 
 i-heumatism disappear. In the intermediate days between the 
 Harmattan the weather is usually hot, Avith a strong wind blowing 
 from the south-west. The dry sensation disappears, and if a 
 person is subject to fever it will make ics appearance, but in a 
 very mild form. People are seen walking about with their clothes 
 A\Tapped closely around them to protect themselves from the 
 chilling effect of the wind, and children suffer from severe colds. 
 The Europeans often call the Harmattan the " Doctor," from its 
 beneficial results ; for sometimes a person, who appears to be at 
 death's door before it commences, will immediately reA^vc under 
 its exhilarating influence. 
 
 The sea-breeze usually commences about ten o'clock in the 
 morning, beginning at south-east and gradually veering to 
 south-west, from which quarter it blows during nine months in 
 the year. In the dry summer season it is often a stiff gale about 
 sundown.
 
 CHAP. III. QUITTAII FETICniSM. 4l 
 
 The current along the coast sets to tlie soutli-east, but often 
 after a heavy tornado it will run to the westward for two or three 
 days, during which tioie vessels hound to windward take 
 advantage of its favourable influence to aid them against the 
 prevalent westerly winds. 
 
 The surf always beats furiously along the whole coast, but 
 during the prevalence of the rains it is terrific. The dull booming 
 roar is carried inland for many miles by the sea-breeze, and 
 communication between the vessels and the shore is sometimes 
 cut off for days together. Of course, should a vessel be so 
 imfortunate as to get within its influence she is speedily reduced 
 to splinters. On such occasions she becomes the property of the 
 King, the hapless sailors being scarcely allowed to take their 
 clothing. JSTot unfrequently the priests assemble on the beach to 
 sacrifice, or "make fetiche" as it is called, in order that the 
 gods may be induced to send a vessel ashore. This reminds one 
 of the prayer taught by the wrecker to his children, " God bless 
 father and mother, and send a ship ashore before morning." 
 Captain Haynes of the " Astarte " once observed the priest 
 at Quittah, making fetiche to bring his vessel ashore, and he was 
 engaged in his mysterious rites for a whole day and night. His 
 efforts, however, were not crowned with success, for I had the 
 pleasure of returning to England in that vessel, although we were 
 dismasted in a severe tornado off that very town, perhaps sent 
 by the fetiche priest out of spite for not obliging him by the 
 sacrifice of the vessel. 
 
 The Geology of Dahomey is not very interesting. The narrow 
 strip of land between the lagoon and the sea owes its origin to 
 the immense quantities of corals, which building upwards from 
 the bed of the ocean, ultimately brought their structure within 
 the reach of the breakers, where being constantly exposed to the 
 fury of the surf, and choked with sand and the deposits from the 
 ri\ers, it ultimately became rescued from the sea. The surface 
 sand is bright yellow, very porous, and varying in depth from six 
 to fourteen feet, beneath which the coral begins to make its
 
 43 THE WnVDAH LIONS. CUAP. III. 
 
 appearance. Northwards from the lagoon the sand covers a 
 substratum of black argillaceous earth mixed TN'ith a clay, which 
 is used for building purposes in Whydah, but only by the poorer 
 classes, as the red swish is very much " stronger." Beyond 
 Whydah the sand overlies a viscid clay, stained of a deep red 
 colour with oxide of iron from the hills beyond Abomey. 
 
 No part of AYhydah is more than forty feet above the sea level. 
 From Whydah the land rises Mnth a gentle slope, and a series of 
 steps to Alvpweh, where it attains an elevation of about 420 feet, 
 beyond which place it suddenly drops to 130 feet, forming the 
 Aglime swamp. From Aglime it rises to Abomey, which has 
 an altitude of about 1100 feet. Abomey stands on an eminence, 
 as on every side there is a steep escarpment except towards the 
 sea. Beyond Abomey the land again rises to the Mahi hills. 
 Between the hills and the sea the whole country bears abundant 
 e^'idence of a pluvial epoch. The whole country is composed of 
 the detritus of the hills washed down by heavy rains which have 
 scored out and filled up valleys in their course to the sea. Not a 
 stone is to be found between Abomey and the sea, and pebbles and 
 gravel first make their appearance at Kana. North of Abomey, 
 at the foot of the escarpment, is a talus of gravel some forty 
 feet thick, evidently caused by the obstruction of the harder rocks 
 upon which Abomey is built. 
 
 The Mahi hills may be considered to be the outpost of the 
 Kong mountains, and are of igneous origin. The hills forming 
 the outskirts of the Kong range are just visible from the edge of 
 the table-land upon which Abomey is situated. They are the 
 birthplaces of numerous streams running to the eastward to form 
 the immense swamp known as Denham Water, which affords a 
 communication between the interior and the British Colony of 
 Lagos. 
 
 The principal rock-masses are chiefly composed of various 
 traps and metamorphic rocks, with patches of rock, probably of 
 Silurian and Devonian age, scattered at intervals. The trap rocks 
 arc found disrupted between other formations, and arc chiefly
 
 CHAP. III. GEOLOGY OF DAHOMEY. 43 
 
 felspatliic in character, of a grey tint, interspersed witli which are 
 masses of diorite readily distinguished by its browner colour from 
 the felstone. Porphyritc is found plentifully, giving sombre 
 tints to the rocks where it occurs. The metamorphic rocks are 
 chiefly granite and gneiss, the lines of foliation in the latter 
 exhibiting remarkable flexures. 
 
 The quartzose rocks are as a rule more clearly stratified than 
 the schistose, and occasionally have laminas of mica between 
 the planes of bedding. 
 
 Interspersed with these metamorphic rocks we sometimes find 
 a peculiar stratified sandstone, more or less conglomeratic in 
 character. The black variety is very soft and useless, but the 
 white spotted kind is extensively used for building purposes. These 
 sandstones are often deeply stained by oxide of iron. 
 
 Superimposed upon these formations we often find 'a capping 
 of clay, interbedded with which are immense lava-beds with 
 masses of tufa scattered here and there among them. These 
 all bear abundant evidences of the effect of the disintegration of 
 a pluvial epoch, and, indeed, the greater part of the kingdom of 
 Dahomey appears to be nothing more than the washing down 
 of these rocks by heavy rain. 
 
 The lowland is the home of the oil palm {Ekms Guinceiisis), 
 whose products form the principal trade of the country, now that 
 the odious slave trade is suppressed. 
 
 The population of the country is. extremely difficult to esthnate. 
 Many of the larger towns are built in the midst of large forests at 
 a distance from the main road ; so that it is quite possible to be 
 within half a mile of a place of considerable importance, while 
 nothing but a few miserable huts and the Denun or custom house 
 is visible. Burton considers 150,000 as about the number, but 
 adding the population of the towns lying to the northward of 
 Abomey, of whose existence he was ignorant, to that of those 
 between Abomey and the sea, I should think that Commodore 
 Wilmot's estimate of 180,000 is nearer the truth. Of these, 
 130,000 are women and children under twelve years of
 
 U THE WIIYDAII LIOXS. CHAP. III. 
 
 age. But little of the country is under cultivation, so that the 
 population is considerably short of the number the land is capable 
 flf supporting, even under the rudest system of agriculture. 
 
 Whydah itself is about two miles from the sea as the crow 
 flies, the intervening space being the Gonji of Dahoman history. 
 As in all "West African towns, distance lends enchantment to the 
 view, for "Whydah, in propria persona, and as seen from the yards 
 of the shipping in the roads, is very different. 
 
 The native name is Grc-whe, or the Garden-house, and 
 "Whydah is a corruption of Hue-dah (said to mean salt-water 
 town), the name of a kingdom formerly existing here, of which 
 Sa^a was the capital. The Portuguese name is Ajuda, while the 
 Brazilians generally call the place Ayuda. Its history is some- 
 what eventful. The earliest accounts declare it to have been a 
 tributary to the king of Savi, who, for some neglect in papng the 
 taxes imposed upon them, made war upon the "Whydahs and 
 annexed their town to his kingdom, at that time one of the most 
 flourishing of the many petty states in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The natives are described by Snelgrave as being such dexterous 
 thieves, that it was impossible to guard against their attacks, 
 notwithstanding an edict of their own which declared the thief 
 taken in the act to become the property of his captor. It is said 
 that the "Whydahs were the most formidable of the coast tribes, 
 and could bring an army of 200,000 men into the field, — an 
 account which may be believed, if desired. The capital was 
 called XaAner or Savi, and contained 50,000 inhabitants and 
 several forts, the very ruhis of which are now destroyed. 
 
 In 1725, Agajah, the fourth king of the present dynasty, re- 
 solved to open a road to the sea, to share in the lucrative profits 
 of the slave trade. 
 
 Hoofon, the king of Savi at that time, was an indolent young 
 man, who, placing implicit confidence in the protection of his 
 fetiche, allowed his kingdom to fall an easy prey into the hands 
 of the Dahoman monarch. Iluedah was called by Agajah, Gre- 
 whe or Gle-whe — Garden-house, meaning that it should supply
 
 CHAP. III. DIVISIONS OF WnVDAH. 45 
 
 food — i.e.f necessaries to tlie capital of the kingdom. Tlie con- 
 queror duly celebrated tlie event by the decapitation of hun- 
 dreds of prisoners, who were sent to Hades to Avork for the 
 deceased monarchs of Dahomey. 
 
 Like all towns in the country the houses are scattered, and all 
 have enclosed courtyards of considerable area. This fact must 
 be borne in mind in estimating the population of Dahoman toAvns, 
 as the inhabitants are by no means commensurable with the area 
 covered by their dwellings. Whydah has lost much of its beauty 
 since the suppression of the slave trade. The principal houses 
 are falling to ruins, their swish walls wasting before the heavy 
 rains, and the whole town bears a squalid, used-up aspect. 
 
 The population may be estimated at 10,000, but during the 
 celebration of the annual customs the number would be reduced 
 to 6000 at most. Of these 8000 are slaves, or dependent upon 
 the caboceers and merchants in the place, and perhaps fift}', at the 
 outside, profess Christianity. 
 
 All large towns in Dahomey are subdivided into parishes or 
 quarters, each having its own caboccer and possessing certain 
 privileges, the whole being under the governorship of one superior 
 captain. 
 
 The divisions of Whydah are as follow : — 
 
 Sogbaji or Hie-glensi, the English town ; having no governor. 
 Dukomen, the Portuguese town; under Tokfoh. 
 Agudo Chacha, the Brazilian toAvn ; under Nodofreh. 
 Ahwanjigo, the French town ; under the Avogan. 
 Zobemi, the market town ; under Quinun. 
 
 The first four have forts belonging to their respective nations, 
 and the traders reside in all cases either in the fort or near it, 
 each nationality keeping within the jurisdiction of its own town. 
 The inhabitants of the various quarters are ofteu the descendants 
 of the slaves held by the governors of the forts, and the merchants 
 residing in any toioi are at liberty to impress into their service 
 for the time being any resident of their quarter. For instance, 
 should occasion arise for a number of men to roll oil to the beach,
 
 46 TUE WIIYDAH LIONS. chap. hi. 
 
 tlie caboceer of the town is communicated with, and he at once 
 provides the required number of hands. 
 
 As an account of the various quarters may be interesting, I 
 propose to describe the "Whydah Lions seriatim, starting with the 
 English town. 
 
 The Enghsh fort, or Fort William, stands on the north side of 
 the town, and is celebrated in Dahoman history as the scene of 
 several important events. It was originally built by Captain 
 Wiburne for the Royal African Company about 1650. It is 
 a wretched structure, but still capable of defence against the 
 natives. The enceinte is an oblong, enclosing an area of about 
 eight acres, surrounded by a moat twenty feet deep, but completely 
 choked Avith weeds and brushwood. The angles are defended 
 by round bastions some twenty feet high, the south-west one 
 being surmounted by a flagstaff from which the red ensign is dis- 
 played on Sundays by Messrs. Swanzy's agent, who is now 
 in possession, A few cannon, admirably honeycombed, are 
 mounted on the bastions by being stuck in the swish, while others 
 are lying with gaping touchholes on the side of the ditch. 
 
 The principal building, which faces the south, has not so re- 
 spectable an appearance as an English barn. It has lately been 
 whitewashed to shroud its decaying walls from too close observers, 
 and is covered with a thatched roof, the ridge of which is gracefully 
 bending towards the centre. It is about two hundred feet long, 
 with s\nsh walls nearly four feet thick, and has a guard-house in 
 the centre, merely a covered gateway with earthen settles on 
 cither side. Opposite the entrance the first governor planted a 
 garden, the only vestiges of which at the present day are the two 
 brick pillars, terribly out of the perpendicular, which supported 
 the gates. Within this enclosure were interred the remains of 
 Governor Abson, whose daughter by a mulatto wife was seized by 
 order of Agajah, and taken to Abomey after her father's death. 
 The drawbridge has departed with the garden, and entrance is 
 now gained to the fort over the filled-up ditch. Two or three 
 guns lying t»u the ground at the entrance are occasionally used to
 
 CHAP. III. THE EXGLISH FORT. 47 
 
 fire salutes, but are useless for warfare, as if loaded with ball they 
 would be certain death to the artillerymen who had daring enough 
 to fire them ofi". 
 
 The interior consists of stores on the ground floor, and a 
 residence above for the governor and officers. The dining hall is 
 about sixty feet long and twenty-five feet wide, with bare white- 
 washed walls and prison-looking windows, which are closed at 
 night with wooden shutters. The ceiling is rapidly transport- 
 ing itself to the floor, while the latter is evidently craving 
 for a nearer relationship with the earth, the beams having bent 
 and given way in several places, to the no small danger of the 
 adventurous person who treads upon them. All the rooms are 
 close, dark, gloomy little dens, while the balcony and staircase 
 are but traps to catch the unwary. Within the courtyard is a 
 well, sixty feet deep, supplying brackish, dysentery-communicating 
 water ; while numerous huts and outhouses are inhabited by the 
 servants of the firm, amongst Avhich that of John Beecham figures 
 conspicuously to the right. Besides these huts there arc a ruined 
 cooking-house, a dilapidated schoolroom and a bathing-house. In 
 the centre, under the shade of several umbrella-trees, are two 
 bronze guns, the touchholes, as usual, being large enough to 
 admit the fist. 
 
 These huts are all on the south side of the compound, which is 
 divided into two unequal parts by a low swish wall running from 
 east to west. North of the wall, under a conical thatched roof, 
 is a fetiche figure, a representative of the god Dohen, who calls 
 ships to Whydah. The god is a villanous imitation of a human 
 figure seated on a low stool, with hands on knees, and covered 
 with feathers and filth of every description. 
 
 To the right of this shrine is the dilapidated abode of the god 
 Ajaruma, who is supposed to preside over the destinies of white 
 men. This deity is worshipped under the form of a wooden post 
 stuck up on end, the top being smeared with a red composition 
 and swathed in white cotton cloth. To the disgrace of the Eng- 
 lish these two deities are worshipped within the fort to this day.
 
 48 THE WHYDAH LIONS. chap. in. 
 
 and rum, goats and fowls are offered as propitiation foi any 
 offences committed. 
 
 To the extreme right is the grave-yard, formerly known as the 
 Hog-yard, which Burton says derived its name from the fact of 
 white men heing huried there. I myself cannot discover the con- 
 nection. Here are huried any Englishmen who die either in the 
 town or on board the shipping in the roads. It contains the graves 
 of Captain Wibume, the founder ; ^Ir. W. Smith, an agent of the 
 " Company ; " !Mr. James, or, as he is to this day known by the 
 Whydahs, Huze-Huze, who has certain sacrifices made to him 
 during the Whydah carnival at Christmas time ; and several cap- 
 tains of various merchant vessels who have died at this place. A 
 few crosses are placed at the heads of the graves, hut the whole 
 place is covered with weeds, and hears an aspect of utter desola- 
 tion. The fort, in short, is a disgrace to the English nation, and 
 gives hut a poor idea of the character of Englishmen when com- 
 parison is made with the French or Portuguese stations. 
 
 The fort had been given up by Government for many years, 
 the "Wesleyan missionaries occupying it for a short time after- 
 wards. 
 
 To the east of the fort is a pretentious establishment, now a 
 ruin, and known to European residents as " Gothic House." It 
 belonged to a mulatto merchant of Cape Coast Castle, named 
 Ilutton, who in 1857 was dro^^•ned in crossing Lagos bar; and 
 afterwards was occupied by a Portuguese half-caste, named Juan, 
 who was poisoned at Badagary. Since then the property has 
 passed into the hands of the Crown, although at the present time 
 it is inhabited by a Cape Coast tailor. Xer.rly opposite the gate 
 of the English fort is the extensive establi.^hment of Ignatio de 
 Souza, a son of the Chacha, who is supposed to have been poisoned 
 by the fetiche people, in consequence of having given information 
 to a man-of-war of the loading of a slave-ship. As such an 
 offence is high treason, the property of the aggressor becomes 
 confiscated to the Crown. The valuables are removed by a corps 
 of soldiers, called the Don-pwe — a sort of state spies, and the
 
 CHAP. III. THE WESLEYAN MISSION. 49 
 
 house "broken." It afterwards passed into tlie hands of the 
 African C'onipany, but is now deserted and in ruins. 
 
 To the left of this establishment is the house of the Wesleyan 
 mission, the darkest blot in A^'^lydah. Tlie Wesleyans established 
 themselves at Whydah in 1843, the Rev. T. B. Freeman, Bishop 
 of the Gold Coast, and Mr. Dawson being the pioneers. In 
 ] 854 the Rev. Peter "VV. Bernasko and the Rev. Mr. Laing were 
 removed from the Gold Coast to Whydah, and began a mixed 
 traffic in religion and palm-oil. King Gezu, the then reigning 
 monarch, objected to the two professions being combined in one 
 individual, but the present king on his accession looked with a 
 more favourable eye upon the mission. In 1863 Mr. Laing was 
 removed to Annamaboe, and Mr. Bernasko remained in sole 
 charge. The king sent several boys and girls to be educated at 
 the mission, and at one time there were about sixty scholars, 
 including the children who wore given to the English visitors at 
 the court. 
 
 His reverence, however, was fond of spiritual things in more 
 than one sense ; for he took to imbibing rum and other unholy 
 liquids. Things went from bad to worse, until he had repeatedly 
 to be carried from the pulpit in a disgusting state of intoxica- 
 tion. News soon flies in Dahomey, and the king hearing of the 
 misconduct of his reverence, prohibited him from making any 
 more converts. He said that " If white man's religion make men 
 drunk, it be no good," and he would have no more of it. Such a 
 disgraceful affair was only calculated to bring religion into bad 
 odour. At the present time affairs are still worse. Religion is 
 utterly neglected, and the reverend fills up his time by visiting 
 the various factories at meal times, and sponging as much liquor 
 from each as he can. His wife is a hardworking woman, who 
 strives to make both ends meet by performing the office of 
 laundress for the English. Bernasko's son has been partly 
 educated in England, but he is as worthless as his father, 
 having been detected in pilfering. The remainder of the family, 
 about twelve in number, chiefly girls, are idling their time
 
 50 THE WHYDAH LIOXS. chap. hi. 
 
 doing nothing, but the eldest girls are encouraged hj their 
 father to prostitute themselves to every white man in the 
 place. 
 
 Such is the state of mission labour at AVhydah — the most 
 notorious brothel on the coast — and the missionary held up to the 
 execration of all persons, white and black. As might be expected, 
 the Bemaskos are ever ready to trump up any idle tale to malign 
 the character of the Europeans at AVTiydah. 
 
 To the north of the English fort is an open square, within 
 which a small market is held. It is distinguished by the deep pits 
 from which the s\dsh has been taken to erect the houses in the 
 vicinity, while a long shed is the " barracks " of the Blue Com- 
 pany of warriors, when they have occasion to reside at Whydah. 
 Since this is a Government building, the neighbourhood is 
 called Jegbeh, after the name of the palace of the present king. 
 
 On the far side of this square are several huge cotton-trees, 
 amongst which is the celebrated " Tree of Bats ; " although no 
 one tree can appropriately receive this appellation, since there 
 are several cotton-trees in Whydah which are the constant resort 
 of bats. The species is nearly three feet across the expanded 
 wings, and the body is as large as that of a small chicken. 
 They hang in clusters from the branches of the trees, frequently 
 two or three deep, and when a greater number than usual attach 
 themselves to a branch, their weight will often break off the 
 limb, although as thick as a man's leg. The trees they frequent 
 are entirely stript of leaves, although in the day-time they appear 
 to an observer at a distance to be covered with grey foliage, 
 owing to the immense number of bats upon them. The head of 
 the species bears a considerable resemblance to that of a fox, and 
 the whole build of the animal denotes considerable strength. The 
 bats roost all day upon the trees, rarely flying about unless dis- 
 turbed by a snake, and about sunset commence a series of mazy 
 wheelings round the trees. At this time they utter a sharp 
 chirrup, something like the squeak of a rat, but very much 
 higher in pitch, so high, indeed, that I have frequently come
 
 CHAP. III. THE AVOGAN'S PALACE. 51 
 
 across individuals whose acoustic powers had not sufficient range 
 to permit of their hearing the note, and on more than one occasion 
 I have said to Beecham, " AVhat a noise those bats' are making ; " 
 upon which he has observed to me, "Bats have no mouths for 
 talking," he being perfectly unconscious of their vocal powers. 
 
 To the right of the district of Jegbeh is the residence of the 
 Avogan, the "Viceroy of Whydah. The title means " the white 
 man's captain;" Avo, or Tevo, white man, and (jan, captain. The 
 name has been variously spelled by the old authors, and the com- 
 mon mistake has also been made of supposing it to be a personal 
 appellation. Every person of rank in Dahomey is known by his 
 title, his proper name being dropped upon his accepting office, and 
 one of the greatest insults that can be offered to a Dahoman chief 
 is to ask him what his own name is. Indeed, if any person were 
 to mention the king's princely name of Ak-po-toh Boda-hunh,* 
 he would be heavily fined, if not imprisoned for life. I was told 
 of this name by the Prince Hahansu, who also gave me the names 
 of all the Kings of Dahomey. 
 
 The present Avogan is a very old man, who was raised to the 
 office of viceroy in the beginning of the reign of Gezu, the father 
 of the present monarch. On account of great age, which I have 
 invariably found is respected by all classes in Dahomey, he is 
 exempt from following the army, and when travelling is permitted 
 to ride in a hammock, a privilege accorded to no other Dahoman 
 subject. He is a tall, gaunt old fellow, ever ready to lie and 
 cheat, if he can thereby gain anything for himself, while his 
 ingenuity in fabricating excuses for the detention of any person 
 who may fall into his hands, is proverbial. He is the supreme 
 judge at Whydah, and possesses unlimited powers of imprison- 
 ing, fining, and flogging ; but if any crime worthy of death is 
 committed within his jurisdiction, he is obHged to send the 
 prisoner, under escort, to the king, who reserves to himself the 
 right of passing capital punishment. Unless the traveller can 
 
 * This is a fetiche name, and I could not as^ccrtain its meaning. 
 
 E 2
 
 52 THE WHYDAH LIONS. chap. hi. 
 
 put on a devil-may-care air, the Avogan can delay him in the 
 prosecution of his business, until the victim is glad to " dash " 
 the great man a piece of silk, or a case of liqueurs, for permission 
 to " ask permission to visit the interior." If, however, no atten- 
 tion is paid to the greedy old hypocrite, it will be found that he 
 has really no power to aid the visitor. Quinun is the person to 
 whom to look, and a small present made to him at first, will do 
 more towards forwarding the traveller's interests than a shipload 
 dashed to the Avogan. 
 
 This worthy representative of the majesty of the king resides 
 in a huge enceinte to the east of the English fort. Like aU 
 palaces in the country, it is divided into several principal courts. 
 The one to the westward is known as " Oh-on-gajeh," and is the 
 usual place of abode of the Amazon gangs of oil-carriers, and is, 
 in consequence, looked upon with awe by the Whydahs- On the 
 north is the " Gan-hori," where there is a jail capable of accom- 
 modating just as many prisoners as the Avogan thinks fit to 
 commit to durance vile. And vile it is, too, for the place is often 
 so closely packed as not to allow all the prisoners to lie down at 
 one time ; and there being no habeas coiyiis act in Dahomey, when 
 once immured there is very little chance of getting out. 
 
 The principal, and original, entrance to the palace is on the 
 north-eastern side, and is known as the "Bwendemen," a name 
 very frequently bestowed upon the principal gate of a palace. 
 Within this courtyard are the private apartments of the Avogan 
 and those of his body-guard, some four hundred in number, at the 
 highest computation. Here, too, are the stores for the Govern- 
 ment, such as muskets, powder, cloth, rum, &c., which are de- 
 posited here prior to their removal to Abomey. 
 
 Besides these buildings, there is also a private devotional 
 chapel, containing a very interesting assortment of fetiche 
 humbug, such as clay images, skulls of various animals, and the 
 defunct blood- and-feather-smeared remains of fowls and other 
 sacred relics. 
 
 Southward is the dreaded " Agauli," where all cases are tried
 
 CHAP. III. THE AGAULI. 53 
 
 and punishments awarded. This is the largest division of the 
 palace, and contains numerous stores for oil, palm-kernels, and 
 other produce, while others are choked full of broken stools, 
 umbrellas, and all the shattered debris of a Dahoman interior. 
 Just within the doorway is the prison appointed for the reception 
 of persons convicted of stealing palm - kernels. The unlucky 
 wdght is condemned to imprisonment during the viceroy's pleasure, 
 or until he is ransomed by his fiiends, and is fed during his 
 incarceration upon palm-kernels alone, the result of which diet, 
 I was assured by Beecham, is that " he busts." 
 
 The reeeption-hall is a thatched bam, reached by a circuitous 
 journey through a perfect labyrinth of courts and passages, all 
 tending to impress one with a sense of the vast area of the 
 palace, and is situated just beyond the sheds to the right, so that 
 a hole knocked through the wall would bring the stranger into 
 the presence in about a dozen steps. This, however, will not do 
 for Dahoman grandeur ; the shortest method of doing everything 
 is always avoided (except in the matter of soliciting presents), 
 and if the stranger on entering any house is conducted through 
 courtyard after courtyard, he may rest assured that his journey 
 will end in the very next court fi^om the one he started 
 from. 
 
 The Avogan is a great advocate of his own dignity, and 
 invariably keeps his visitor waiting in some miserable shed while 
 he puts the finishing touches upon his toilet, aided by the Madame 
 Rachel of the palace. It is a hint worth remembering that I 
 now throw out, viz., to appear highly indignant at waiting a 
 single moment, if you wish to be heard within a reasonable time. 
 Beecham was continually quoting the proverb, " When in Rome 
 do as the Romans do," but I found that even the Romans could 
 be taught a lesson in the value of time by my getting into a 
 towering passion when told to wait. The Avogan has a great 
 dislike to be hurried, but when he does condescend to appear he 
 is the very Beau Nash of Dahoman politeness, and apologises by 
 the most ample lies for detaining his illustrious visitor. He
 
 54 THE WHYDATI LIONS. chap. in. 
 
 rarely appears in publicj his " place " being taken by one of bis 
 slaves. 
 
 Opposite Agauli, hidden from profane eyes by a thick grove of 
 fig-trees, which form but a mere undergrowth when compared 
 with several tall bombaxes in their midst, is the far-famed snake 
 house, or " Danh-hweh," as it is usually called. The name is 
 derived from Dank, a snake, and Hiceh, a residence. It is some- 
 times called Vodtui-hiceh, i.e., the fetiche house ; and, again, 
 " Danhgbice-hweh," or the big snake (python) house. I was 
 much disappointed at this renowned fetiche, for instead of a 
 respectable temple, I found nothing but a circular swish hut, 
 with a conical roof; in fact, an enlarged model of the parian 
 inkstand to be seen in every toy-shop. There was a narrow 
 doorway on the eastern side leading to the interior, the floor of 
 which was raised a foot above the street. The walls and floor were 
 whitewashed, and there were a few rude attempts at reHefs in 
 swish. From the roof there depended several pieces of coloured 
 cotton yarn, and several small pots containing water were distri- 
 buted about the floor. The roof was raised above the circular walls 
 by short projecting pieces of bamboo ; and, coiled up on the top of 
 the wall, or twining round the rafters, were twenty-two pythons. 
 The creatures were the ordinary brown and pale yellow reptiles, 
 whose greatest length is about eight feet. They were the sacred 
 Danhgbwes, whose power was relied upon to save the kingdom 
 from the conquering armies of Agajah. It was the tutelary 
 saint of Whydah, and when that kingdom was conquered, was 
 introduced into the Dahoman Pantheon. 
 
 So recent as the late king's reign, if a native had the mis- 
 fortune to accidentally (for no one would have the temerity to 
 purposely) kill a Danhgbwe, he was at once sacrificed, and his 
 wi^'cs and property confiscated to the church. At the present 
 time, the defaulter has to undergo a foretaste of the sufierings of 
 his portion hereafter. A meeting of all the fetichists in the 
 neighbourhood is convened, and a hut of sticks, thatched with long 
 dry grass, is erected in the open space before the Snake-house. 
 
 I
 
 iV§> 
 
 THE SNAKE TEMPLE. 
 
 55 
 
 AYithin this structure the victim is seated, his clothes and body- 
 being well daubed with palm -oil mixed with the fat of the 
 murdered deity. At a given signal the hut is fired, and as the 
 materials are dry as tinder, the whole edifice is at once in a 
 blaze, while the clothes of the victim of this salamandrine rite 
 are soon on fii'e. The poor wretch rushes out of the blaz- 
 ing hut and makes for the nearest water with all speed, but 
 
 THE SNAKE TEMPLK. 
 
 the " Banhgbwe - no," snake mothers, or ''Bunk -si" snake 
 wives, i.e., fetiche priests, are prepared with sticks, pellets of 
 swish, dung, and other missiles, to mercilessly belabour the luck- 
 less offender the whole of the distance. Few are able to run 
 the gauntlet, but arc literally clubbed to death by the furious 
 priests, ^grescit medendo ! No wonder the people stand in 
 awe of a creature, the killing of which entails so fearful a 
 punishment.
 
 oG THE WHYDAH LIONS. chap. hi. 
 
 The doorway being always open, the snakes frequently make 
 excursions after nightfall. Should an unfortunate person of 
 cither sex meet the strolling deity, he is obliged to prostrate 
 himself before it, and then, taking it tenderly in his arms, carry 
 it to the priests. Of course he is rewarded by these gentlemen 
 for taking care Qf the god, says the reader. No such thing ! 
 He is fined for meeting the snake, and imprisoned until it is paid 
 to the uttermost cowrie. 
 
 Ordinary snakes may be killed Avith impunity, but beware of 
 meddling with the Danhgbwe ! A great palaver would certainly 
 be the result of any white man meddling with the sacred reptile, 
 and a fine ^dll be rigorously imposed upon the offender. The 
 Danhgbweno are usually engaged in instructing the neophytes in 
 the mysteries of their faith, and in feeding their deities upon 
 fowls. The priests are recruited in a singular manner. Should 
 a child be touched by a snake on one of its nocturnal peregrina- 
 tions, the priests immediately demand the child from its parents, 
 who have to impoverish themselves to pay for its support in the 
 various ceremonials appertaining to the worship. After a 
 certain lengthy instruction, the neophyte is allowed to practise 
 priestcraft for himself. A full account of the Ophiolatry of 
 the Dahomans will be given in the chapter devoted to their 
 religion. 
 
 South-west of the Boa temple is the " Zoheme," or market- 
 place, one of the " lions of Whydah," according to Forbes. It 
 covers an area of about fourteen acres, and is divided into several 
 principal sections by cross streets. Each section is exclusively 
 apportioned to the sale of one class of articles, such as pottery, 
 liardware, fetiche charms, oil, and so forth. The market shops 
 are low booths, about ton feet by six, raised upon banks of clay 
 beaten hard, and are thatched with palm-leaves, and the floor is 
 usually smeared with cow- dung. Each shop stands upon its own 
 " islet," as they may be called, for in the rains the footpaths are 
 not unfrequently six inches deep in water. The vendor squats at 
 the side of her booth, a black clay pipe stuck between her lips,
 
 CHAP. III. THE ZOBEME MARKET. 57 
 
 and not unfrequently a babe at her breast. The medium of ex- 
 change is the cowrie, although large purchases may be paid for 
 in coin. 
 
 In the pottery department there were black, fragile, porous 
 water -jars exposed for sale, together with the curious little 
 saucer-like bowls used in the fetiche, and also for lamps. The 
 hardware was represented by a few knives, scissors, needles, pins, 
 hatchets, &c., of European manufacture ; bracelets of iron, brass, 
 or lead ; silver ornaments, such as rings, necklaces, &c. Rude 
 hoes and knives of native manufacture were to be had in 
 abundance, and not a few blacksmiths prided themselves upon 
 the finish of their articles. 
 
 Numerous huts were devoted to the sale of cooked provisions, 
 such as eggs, fiied fish from the lagoons, smoked shrimps (often 
 alive with maggots), baked ground nuts, or ^;«nf/ar ; dakoh (a 
 mixture of ground Indian corn and palm-oil baked in an open 
 pot), yams, sweet potatoes. Palaver sauce, and cankie. Others 
 were vendors of ready-cooked meat. These generally affected a 
 conical extinguisher-shaped hut, and squatted on a low stool 
 behind a circular table, with a broad rim and a depression in the 
 centre. Set out to the best advantage on the rim were joints of 
 roast and boiled pork, goat, fowls, ducks, &c., &c. Of these for 
 two cowries about a mouthful could be purchased, the butcher 
 dexterously carving Vauxhall slices from the joint with a knife 
 having a blade curved like the letter J ; and slapping the morsel 
 on a plantain leaf, he sprinkled some pounded chillies upon it, 
 and handed it to his customer ^vith all the airs of a London street 
 stall-keeper. The fetiche department was a heterogeneous collec- 
 tion of all the " notions " under the sun. Feathers stuck in clay 
 pellets, cowries smeared with blood, fetiche rope, jars striped red 
 and white to contain ofierings to the gods, beads singly or by the 
 string, some being of European and others of native manufacture, 
 composed of pieces of broken palm-kernels threaded on cotton. 
 Medicine, too, had its department. Herbs for the cure of all 
 diseases ; ditto for the manufacture of charms, while not a few
 
 r,8 THE WHYDAH LIONS. chap. in. 
 
 sold a white powder of calcined mica " to keep the devil from the 
 eyes." 
 
 One department was exclusively devoted to the sale of native 
 produce, such as farhiua, or grated cassava, invaluable to travellers, 
 for mixed with water it can be eaten without cooking, on being 
 merely kneaded into a ball ; pots of oil, some for cooking purposes, 
 others for illumination ; maize, Guinea corn, picked and in the 
 cob, yams, sweet potatoes, bananas, plantains, baked and raw ; 
 Kola nuts, generally in little heaps, each worth a fraction of a 
 penny ; oranges, limes, pine-apples, guavas, and spices of all 
 kinds ; ginger, pepper, okros {Hibiscus), sugar-cane, onions, 
 tomatoes, and papaws. Here and there were to be seen water- 
 melons and snails. 
 
 Should the market-woman — for the people in the markets are 
 nearly all women and children — feel inclined for a drink, the 
 hotel is already open. Bottles of liqueurs — pleasing to the eye, 
 fiery to the palate, and poisonous to the body ; Brazilian caxaca, 
 palm wine, either by the bottle or teaspoonful. 
 
 The drapery department was well stocked. Country cloths, 
 cither of cotton woven in narrow strips and sewn side by side, or 
 of twisted grass, dyed in various colours ; prints, the more gaudy 
 the pattern the more saleable ; grass hats, tapes of all colours, 
 fringes, ribbons, thread and cotton, bundles of cotton yarn, and 
 other articles in native use. 
 
 The leather work is justly praised by all writers, for many of 
 the designs are very tastefully executed. The skins, mostly 
 of goats, are dyed bright red, blue, yellow, black, and white, and 
 are extremely pHable. The principal articles are tobacco pouches 
 and fetiche medicine bags, cushions and saddle-cloths ; shoes and 
 sandals are unknown. A few leather quivers arc to be picked 
 up, and also the black cartridge-boxes in use by the 
 musketeers. 
 
 Other articles in the market were bundles of firewood, jars of 
 water, soap, gunpowder ; pinches of salt, dirty in the extreme ; 
 camwood, pounded fine for dyeing purposes ; indigo ; whitewash ;
 
 CHAP. III. THE rORTUGUESE FORT. 59 
 
 tobacco, roll and leaf; pipes ; snufF; plantain leaves for wrapping 
 up articles ; mats, bedsteads, baskets, and raw cotton. 
 
 Marketing is in full sway about 4 p.m., when a scene that 
 baffles description is to be witnessed. Here an old beldame, with 
 shrivelled breasts hanging down to her waist, will be haggling 
 with a child four years old for a farthing's-worth of fetiche. 
 Oaths fly in every direction, and the chastity of the mothers of 
 the parties is invariably alluded to in terms by no means fit for 
 ears polite. The small-pox is invoked upon the head of one, and 
 another is stigmatised as being fit to be eaten by the devil. Yells, 
 howls, squabbles, and curses are heard on every hand, mingled 
 with the screams of multitudinous infants, and the melodious 
 voices of pigs, goats, and fowls. This hubbub is supplemented 
 by the itinerant criers, who proclaim the praises of the king in 
 anything but musical tones. Imagine this scene with the ther- 
 mometer at 90^, and the buyers and sellers reeking with perspira- 
 tion, which, combined with the odours of the afiti soup and stink- 
 ing fish, constitute an aroma anything but conducive to appetite. 
 
 The market is presided over by an officer, who exacts a toll 
 from every vendor, and the safety of the articles exposed for 
 sale is guarded by the native police. As an instance of the 
 value of food, &c., at Wliydah, I may state that a fowl is worth 
 half a dollar (2.s. 2>d.), yams about fourpence each, eggs are fifty 
 a shilling, and sheep about four dollars each. Cankie may be 
 obtained in sufficient quantity for a day's supply for a penny, and 
 green vegetables are about the same price as in England. 
 
 Eastward of this Babel is the Portuguese fort, situated near 
 the Badagary road. It is a square compound, with bastions at 
 the angles, surrounded by a ditch, which is, as usual, filled up 
 with vegetation. On the south bastion is a battery of five guns, 
 rusted of course, and from the tall flagstafi" the blue and white 
 ensign of Portugal floats lazily in the breeze. 
 
 The dungeon-hke gateway is pierced through the centre of the 
 main building, and is surmounted by a wooden sliield, bearing 
 the Portuguese arms. The walls are whitewashed, and the win-
 
 60 THE WHYDAH LIONS, CHAP, iii 
 
 dows filled with jalousies. Within the enclosure is the residence 
 of the governor, whose power is nil, and whose pay is much 
 about the same. He is mainly supported by the voluntary con- 
 tributions of the Brazilian merchants of the towTi, and so well 
 qualified for his post that he was ignorant of the use of his 
 government seal when called upon to legalize a document ! 
 
 Opposite the gateway is a small chapel, distinguished from the 
 sm-roimding structures by a small wooden cross at the eastern 
 gable. The building has no pretensions to architectural beauty, 
 being merely a whitewashed swish barn, with thatched roof and 
 a miniature belfry, containing two small brass bells. The resi- 
 dence of the clergy immediately adjoins the chapel, and, unHke 
 the generality of buildings inhabited by the whites, has only a 
 ground floor. 
 
 The first missionaries were sent from Toulon in 1861. They 
 were three in number — viz., Messrs. les Abbes F. Borghero, a 
 Genoese ; and Francois Fernandez, a native of Galicia, in Spain. 
 The third, Louis Edde, who sailed from France -in connection 
 with the mission, died of fever at Sierra Leone. On arri\dng at 
 Whydah, the object of their mission was submitted to the king, 
 who graciously permitted them to reside within the Portuguese 
 fort. The converts are about twenty in number, all children, 
 who are supposed to attend a school ; but, as they are under no 
 compulsion, the greater part kick up their heels in the sand in 
 preference to learning the mysteries of the " Yewc-noh " (God- 
 men), as the missionaries are called. The mission is not at 
 present on very good terms with the government, chiefly on 
 account of the priests making the usual mistake of trying to get 
 the thick end of the wedge in first. 
 
 Some missionaries unfortuuatcly appear to think that " the 
 heathen," as they are pleased to term that part of the human 
 family who have not embraced Christianity, are mere brutes, 
 without reasoning powers, and who will at once allow theii' time- 
 honoured rehgious theories to be supplanted by those of a true 
 faith. In too many cases have I seen the most lamentable
 
 CHAP. III. UNEDUCATED MISSIONARIES. 61 
 
 results ensue from the appointment of an uneducated person to 
 the missionary stations abroad. To such a person failure is 
 almost certain. He goes out to a benighted race, often better 
 fitted to instruct him in the etiquette of association with his 
 fellow-beings than to receive an education at his hands, and in a 
 dictatorial spirit demands the total overthrow of the national Pan- 
 theon. As a natural sequence quarrels and bloodshed ensue. 
 Lucky for such a pseudo-missionary is the fact that as a rule he is 
 imperfectly acquainted with the language ; otherwise there are 
 in every savage community plenty of shrewd individuals who 
 would totally upset any argument that could be brought to bear 
 upon the fallacy of the native faith by such ignorant instructors ; 
 as the case is, they fall back upon their iUiterateness as an excuse 
 for their failure. WeU would it be for missionary enterprise if 
 these pseudo-teachers were struck off the list, and in their place 
 more men of the John Williams type introduced among its ranks. 
 One unqualified teacher in a district will do far more towards 
 confirming the native in his erroneous belief than the example of 
 a score of traders who are not professed " God-men." The conver- 
 sion of the savage must be obtained by slow degrees, not by a 
 cataclysm of Christianity. First show him the advantages of 
 civilisation, teach him to add to his creature comforts, and then 
 improve his religion. If the people who advocate the dogmatic 
 theory would but place themselves in the position of the Pagan, 
 they would at once see how ridiculous must they appear. Sup- 
 pose, for instance, that a black man endowed with superior 
 intelligence, or at any rate possessing a knowledge, however 
 attained, far advanced beyond our own, and who surrounded 
 himself with luxuries undreamed of by the richest in the land, 
 were to arrive on our shores, and after mastering a smattering of 
 the language were to enter St. Paul's Cathedral, in the middle of 
 Divine service, and commence an argument "svith priests and con- 
 gregation upon the fallacy of our religion and the validity of his 
 own belief in some incomprehensible Deity, — what would be the 
 result ? Why, he would be accounted a madman, a fanatic,
 
 62 THE "WHYDAH LIOXS. chap. hi. 
 
 ridiculed by aR the papers, and most likely cominitted to prison 
 as a public nuisance. Nevertheless, when the same thing is done 
 in a savage country, some people wonder at the unpromising 
 result of missionary labour. If, however, the same person were 
 to quietly enter into a discussion with our theological savans, he 
 would attain his end without creating a state of anarchy and 
 religious ''furore " among the people. Does not the necessity of 
 the missionaiy being a man of superior education and reasoning 
 powers become at once manifest ? Fortunately the people at 
 home are becoming alive to the fact, and a new race of mis- 
 sionaries is springing up who are specially trained for their 
 profession. 
 
 Success mtist attend their labours, and the sooner they sup- 
 plant those pseudo-teachers to whom I have alluded the sooner 
 will the scandal that attaches to the missions presided over by 
 such persons be removed. Sad is the fact, but none the less true, 
 that in many instances the native has grasped the sum total of 
 the instruction that the missionary has been able to impart to 
 him ; and then commencing to argue certain theological points 
 with his teacher, has found that he could totally upset any 
 theorem brought before him. What is the result ? The shrewd 
 native thinks that it must be a poor religion that cannot stand 
 the test of the investigations of a recent convert, and his thoughts 
 at once revert to his own priests' mystical knowledge that is 
 incomprehensible to the vulgar. He at once concludes that his 
 old belief is the better one, and returns to his former idolatry, 
 the small modicum of instruction that has been imparted to him 
 only qualifying him to become a greater rogue than before. 
 Truly "the last state of that man is worse than the 
 first." 
 
 That many such missionaries conscientiously believe they arc 
 doing a labour of love is very true, but the error of the system is 
 not the less glaring. 
 
 These statements may appear exaggerated, but it must be re- 
 membered that we too often only hear one side of the case in
 
 CHAP. III. THE BRAZILIAN FORT. 63 
 
 England, and few persons abroad care to inquire into the state of 
 affairs. The result of several years' experience has led me to the 
 foregoing conclusions, and a reference to any unbiassed resident 
 at any missionary post will bear me out in my remarks. Re- 
 member, I by no means condemn missionary enterprise, but the 
 system or no system as at present carried out of admitting almost 
 any volunteer into their ranks. There are men whom I have 
 met who have gone the right way to work, and the results have 
 been highly gratifpng, but I have inrariahly found that the most 
 successful have ever been the better-educated men. These re- 
 marks also, do not apply to missionaries among civihzed nations 
 such as the Hindoos or Chiaese, where the necessity for educated 
 teachers has ever been apparent, but among such people as the 
 Mpongwes, the Kanakas, and the Ffons. 
 
 To retur-n to the subject. The Portuguese fort was set on fire by 
 lightning in 1863, and as the priests and the fetichemen had pre- 
 viously had a warm dispute about their respective tenets, the 
 fetichemen immediately gave out that Kheviosoh, the Lightning 
 God, disgusted at the heretical conduct of the padres, had avenged 
 his insulted dignity by setting their fort on fire. Notwithstand- 
 ing the ill-success of the missionaries, I always found the padres 
 very pleasant companions, and I regret that I cannot give a 
 better account of their labours. 
 
 Behind the chapel there is a school-room, and last, but by no 
 means least, a small but well-kept garden. 
 
 On the western side of the market, nearly in the centre of the 
 south side of the town, is the Brazilian fort, now the residence of 
 the notorious De Souza family. This covers nearly as much 
 ground as the whole of the other forts put together. It stands 
 to the south of the High Street of Whydah, and is the one first 
 seen on entering the town. It is the least desirable of all the 
 forts as a residence, being merely an interminable series of court- 
 yards and mud hovels. The principal building faces the sea, and 
 is built in the usual barn style of architecture, which contrasts very 
 unfavourably ynt\i the stone erections along the Gold Coast. The
 
 64 THE WHYDAH LIONS. chap. hi. 
 
 fort occupies the northern side of an open triangular " square," 
 kno^^Ti to the Whydahs as the " Uhon-nukon," or " yard in front 
 of the gate," on the south side of which is the Ajudo-ahhi-mcn, 
 through whose jabbering alley we entered the town. This open 
 space is also the frequent scene of the vigorous inflictions of the 
 rod which are awarded to those soldiers who have misconducted 
 themselves, and also to the servants of the various factories who 
 have been detected in pilfering. To the left of the cavernous 
 gateway is a celebrated fetiche. By report, a shot was fired from 
 a vessel in the roads at the western gable of the fort, by order of 
 Commander Hill, E.N., the Governor of the Gold Coast in 1845. 
 As the distance- was thought to be too great for any gun to carry 
 without supernatural aid, the priests at once gave out that their 
 Kheviosoh had taken charge of the missile, and conveyed it to 
 the spot it now occupies. It is hidden from profane eyes by a 
 circular hedge of the " Sayan," or " Thunder shrub," and prickly 
 pear. This fort is in the occupation of various members of the 
 De Souza family, a brief epitome of whose history will be needful. 
 In 1810, Francisco Felles De Souza, a small farmer of Brazil, 
 left Hio Janeiro for the coast of Guinea, then in its prime as a 
 slave producing country. He first settled near Little Popo, 
 about twenty miles westward of Whydah, and when he had risen 
 to a certain amount of prosperity he called it Ajudo, as also did 
 he afterwards name other settlements of his foundation. The 
 word is taken from the Portuguese, " Deos rac ajudo," — God 
 helped mc — the nomenclature being identical with that practised 
 by the Hebrew patriarchs. He afterwards was raised to the 
 dignity (?) of Governor of the Portuguese fort at Whydah, 
 M-hither he had removed the greater part of his property. 
 
 After a residence in Whydah of about ten years, in 1845 he 
 was invested with the ofiice of agent between the king and the 
 whites, who, at that time, were principally Portuguese and 
 Spaniards, and received the title of Chaclia, ranking next the 
 Avogan. This office was one of considerable importance, as the 
 holder could levy any octroi or toll he chose upon any articles
 
 CHAP. III. CIIACIIA DE SOUZA. (;5 
 
 exposed for sale, and indeed lie liad power to refuse the admis- 
 sion of any article into the kingdom. The inevitable result of 
 such a state of affairs was that no trade could be done until the 
 Chucha had been handsomely "dashed;" and this, combined with 
 the profits of the " De,^' or customs dues, soon transformed the 
 ci-devant peasant into a millionaire. He appears to have been 
 hospitable and courteous to strangers, and although, as a slave 
 dealer, the English were his bitterest enemies, he treated Mr. 
 Duncan with the greatest kindness. He set his face against the 
 revolting cruelties practised by the court and the fetiche priests, 
 and did far more towards elevating the social status of the 
 Whydahs, than any man either before or since. He died at a 
 great age in 1849, leaving more than one hundred children, and 
 was buried within the precincts of the fort. Forbes gives an 
 account of several human beings who were sacrificed by his sons 
 to appease his manes, but this is an erroneous statement ; the 
 facts being that the king slew several people to carry the news of 
 the Chacha's death to the monarch's deceased ancestors. 
 
 After the old Chacha's death, he was succeeded b}^ one of liis 
 younger sons, Isidore, who held the office for two years, and was 
 succeeded by his brother Antonio " Kwaku," or Antonio " Wed- 
 nesday," so-called from the day of his birth. This man was the 
 very counterpart of his father. A libertine, drunkard, fanatic, 
 and a rogue, his audacity knew no bounds. He had his own 
 body guard and amazons, remnants of which corps still exist. 
 The Iving was building the palace of Coomassie at the time, and 
 sacrificed several slaves upon the occasion, the blood of the poor 
 wretches being mingled with the swish of the walls. Kwaku,. 
 not to be outdone by the monarch, built a house and mixed the 
 swish with rum instead of blood, that liquid being more expen- 
 sive than the blood of a few slaves. At length his presumption 
 was carried too far. He insisted upon the king, Ge'zu, becoming 
 a convert to Eoman Catholicism. This was too much fur the 
 proud conqueror, who found means to destroy the bigot, and in- 
 stalled his lialf-brother Ignatio in his place. 
 
 F
 
 66 THE WHYDAH LIOXS. CHAP. III. 
 
 He built the liouse opposite the English fort, and was supposed 
 to have been poisoned, as previously mentioned. He was suc- 
 ceeded by another brother, Francisco Chico, who is the present 
 representative of the family. He is about fifty years of age, tall 
 and very dark, with a mulatto cast of features. His hair and 
 beard are quite white, and he is now too feeble to move about. 
 He has built a private residence to the north of the Brazilian fort 
 and has given up that mud pile to his nephew, Antonio Francisco, 
 the sou of Kwaku, who is a large merchant doing a considerable 
 trade with Bahia. 
 
 All the family are Caboceers, and possess considerable influence, 
 especially with regard to Portuguese or Brazilian afi'airs. The 
 Chacha is very much liked by all classes, and the old man is 
 anxious to retain the good wishes of the European residents. The 
 king still has a high opinion of the Chacha, who has received fi'e- 
 quent marks of favour from the royal hand. 
 
 The family number about eighty, and are at once distinguished 
 from the Whydahs by their ta^^^ly skins and semi-ci\'ilised dress. 
 The ladies of the house wear loose robes of cotton, beneath which 
 the white chemise, edged with lace or other "cunning work," 
 appears, lea^'ing the upper part of the back and breast exposed. 
 They smear themselves with scented pomatum, and are the 
 heaviest swells of the country in the matter of coiifure. All 
 smoke, drink, and take snuff. Their feet are protected by the 
 narrow-pointed wooden shoes imported from Bahia, and their 
 heads are usually swathed in black or coloured silk skull-cap-hke 
 turbans, in the folds of which the short clay pipe is inserted. 
 
 A condition of affairs prevails in the family calculated to rival 
 that of the Peruvian monarchs. As there are no peers to whom 
 these ladies can be married, they accept temporary husbands 
 from their favourites, while half-brothers and sisters intermarry, 
 the result of which is the degeneracy of the race. The favours 
 of these yellow belles are easily obtained by any white man ; but 
 for a black man, however wealthy, to look at them woiold be an 
 insult hardly to be wiped out without bloodshed. At the present
 
 CHAP. III. THE "GOOD OLD TIMES." 67 
 
 time there are about twenty adults who are all fathers, mothers, 
 uncles, aunts, brothers, and sisters to each other. 
 
 Near the French factory is the residence of Sr. F. J. Medeiros, 
 of slave-dealing notoriety. This is by far the prettiest house in 
 Whydah, the approach to it leading through an avenue of roses, 
 oranges, cashew-nuts, and other trees. This gentleman is, accord- 
 ing to report, a Brazilian, and formerly exported more slaves than 
 any other private person on the coast. He is generous and hos- 
 pitable in the extreme, his house being open to all comers, to 
 whom a cordial welcome is ever extended. He is building an 
 extensive country house to the north-west, which, if completed, 
 will be the finest building between Sierra Leone and Lagos. 
 
 The only remaining factory is that of Sr. Ignatio de Souza 
 Magallaes, a Porto Novo and Badagary merchant. This is 
 situated at the south-east of the Brazilian fort, and contains 
 nothing worth mentioning except several fine monkeys and a 
 red-tiled dwelling-house, which has a pretty effect when seen 
 from Gonji. 
 
 ISTow that the slave-trade is stopped, Whydah is tottering 
 to her fall. Families once wealthy have had their incomes 
 grievously curtailed, and are now miserable hucksters of palm-oil. 
 In the houses are to bo seen displays of the most extravagant, 
 reckless squandering of money in the golden days now gone for 
 €ver. Furniture of the most costly description, even to bedsteads 
 inlaid with gold, musical boxes, silks, arms, and curiosities — all 
 purchased at exorbitant prices. These, contrasted with the 
 present too palpable poverty of the successors of the traders in 
 human flesh, are but one of the many evidences of the decline of 
 prosperity in the town. Not that hospitality is thereby lessened, 
 but the most recherchi dinners now given by the elite of 
 "VVhydah are mere shadows of the orgies of former times, when 
 eating, drinking, dancing, and love-making formed the principal 
 occupation of a AVhydah gentleman in the intervals between the 
 departure of the slavers. Where the ci-devant millionaires made 
 thousands, they now make tens, and houses built in the days of 
 
 F 2
 
 08 THE WHYDAH LIONS. ciiAP. ill. 
 
 prosperity to accommodate hundreds of personal slaves are now 
 permitted to fall into decay, the dry thatcli of the barn-like sheds 
 only lending additional fuel to the many conflagrations that in the 
 dry season frequently unroof half the to\vn at one fire. 
 
 Much, however, might be done towards bringing about a happy 
 change ; for if the now dormant energies of the people could once 
 be turned into the many channels open for the employment of 
 the natural resources of the country as a means of acquiring 
 their former wealth, I doubt not that the now deserted halls of 
 AYhydah might again resound with the merry laugh, as in the 
 "good old times," and that the notorious slave depot might 
 acquire an equal reputation as the place of export of cotton, 
 india-rubber, and palm-oil. 

 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. 
 
 Start for Abomey — Quinun's message — Joe — Midnight travelling — The " big 
 tree" — My hammock-men — A corduroy bridge — AgbanaWater — Savi — The 
 Nynsin swamp — An unfaithful deity — Palmyra palms — Toll Water — Toll — 
 Dahoman houses — Leopards — Finches — Lovely flora — Azohweh — Agricul- 
 ture — Pleasures of travel — Telegraphic despatch — Butterflies — Alladah — 
 Our passport— History of Alladah— Origin of the Dahoman kingdom — 
 Daho's treachery — Bulfinche Lambe— Reception at Alladah — The Singbo- 
 Skulls of two criminals — Dahoman salutations—" Our hearts are cooled " 
 — Tree of bats — Fetiche town. 
 
 Soon after six in the evening of July 30th Quinun sent his 
 ^' stick "with his "compliments" to inform me that the ham- 
 mock-men would be ready to convey me to Abomey about eight 
 o'clock, and that if I would send my traps round to his house he 
 would assign to each porter his load. He also sent as " serang " 
 a gaunt, cadaverous-lookiug feUow named John, who spoke a 
 jargon which, because containing more English than Fantee and 
 Yoruban, was put down at once as the perfection of Johnson. He, 
 however, proved a very trustworthy feUow, except when over- 
 powered by " canna " or Brazilian caxaca. At the time Captains 
 Langdon, Trcsize, Taverner and Williams, all belonging to Eng- 
 lish vessels in the roads, were at the factory, and they one and 
 all tried to dissuade me from going into the power of the king, 
 of whose treachery and ferocity they seemed to have a wholesome 
 respect. As I was anxious to enter upon a new field of research 
 in natural history, and considering that they knew but little of 
 the country except from report, I thought I had nothing to fear; 
 and the result proved my suppositions to bo correct ; for the
 
 70 JOUENEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. iv. 
 
 study of the Dahoman has been to give sucli an account of liis 
 country as to deter the " ti-ade man " from making any attempt 
 at the investigation of the interior. 
 
 I soon after had the satisfaction of seeing the guns and my 
 boxes carried off under the charge of Amoosu-ndompeh, a junior 
 " magistrate " of Whydah, of whom more hereafter. I anxiously 
 awaited the summons to start, but eleven o'clock arriving without 
 any call, I concluded that our departure had been deferred till 
 the following morning, and accordingly turned in. How ignorant 
 I was of Dahoman customs, where night and day are equally 
 applicable to business ! 
 
 About one in the morning a violent knocking at the gate of the 
 factory aroused me, and in a few minutes Beecham appeared, his 
 head between his shoulders like a pig-faced baboon's, bearing a 
 stick carved into a padlock and key at one end, a present from 
 Quinun. After sundry charity-school bows, he requested me to 
 prepare to start, as my hammock was at the gate. 
 
 I at once roused Captain Williams, who had expressed a wish 
 to see me off, and as all my baggage had gone on I tumbled into 
 the hammock and was jolted round to the Caboceer's. Here wo 
 found Quinun arrayed in an oicu-chyon, or body cloth, of gaudy 
 chintz, put on round the body with the end thrown over the left 
 shoulder, a la toga virilis. After oko, dhu-ing, and watering, he 
 said that everything was prepared for my start, that a messenger 
 had been despatched to inform the king of my intended visit, 
 and that he was then about to deliver the final message and 
 instructions to my escort. After more toasts. Prince Ghu-ga-lah, 
 nephew to the king, was introduced, who was to carry the 
 message to the king. He was a tall youth, not more than 
 twenty years of age, with a round bullet-head and prominent 
 thick lips. He wore his head shaved, save a thimbleful of hair 
 on the left side, and placed implicit confidence in the powers of a 
 fetiche charm suspended from his neck, consisting of some magic 
 rubbish enclosed in a goat skin pin-cushion which had been 
 smeared with fowl's blood, and then ornamented with cowries^
 
 CHAP. IV. MY BOY "JOE." 71 
 
 Quinun speaks very tolerable Portuguese, and has either bawled 
 himself hoarse in praise of his king, or is suffering from chronic 
 bronchitis, as his voice is hoarse as a steam-engine's. 
 
 About half-past two I was requested to stand up while Quinun 
 delivered me into the charge of Ghu-ga-lah andAmoosu-ndompeh. 
 His speech was very elaborate, for all savages are orators. He 
 told them that if they did not bring me back strong and well he 
 would send them in irons to the king — that they were to insist 
 upon every person's paying me proper respect as the king's 
 friend, and that they were to take care that I wanted for nothing. 
 I must confess that they carried out their instructions to the 
 letter, for they were often so officious in their endeavours to pro- 
 mote my welfare, that I wished them anywhere but in my escort. 
 
 My boy Joseph Mensa deserves a passing notice. I picked 
 him up in Accra as a personal attendant and assistant. He was 
 about the ugliest specimen of a Fantee boy I ever saw. His age 
 might be anywhere between sixteen and sixty ; his face was 
 evidently cast in the same mould as a chimpanzee's — his mouth 
 was a mere gash in his face, into which a handful of teeth had 
 been thrown. He was, however, a most excellent servant when 
 in a good humour, but when he was in one of his sulky fits 
 nothing but corporal punishment could bring him to his senses. 
 His horror at going to Abomey caused him to assume a bottle- 
 green hue, and his teeth chattered as much as their ii-regularity 
 would permit. However, on my allowing him to carry my gun 
 and to travel next my hammock, his fears were somewhat 
 allayed. 
 
 The rear-guard was brought up by Bukau, son of the execu- 
 tioner for the king in the Uhunglo market in Abomey, who will 
 succeed his father in his office. 
 
 More healths being drunk, I got into my hammock, and was 
 carried at a run through the town until I arrived at the Avogan's 
 residence, where a brief halt was made while the " place " of the- 
 Avogan drank the king's health and my o^Am, the hammock-men 
 prostrating themselves in the dust during the ceremony. I then
 
 72 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap, iv 
 
 found that our starting had been delayed to this unseasonable 
 hour to keep my departure secret from the rabble, as he did not 
 ■wish it to be known that I had gone to Abonie)'. From Agauli 
 ■\vo carefully threaded our way through the silent and deserted 
 streets, undisturbed by any of Col. Henderson's mp-midons, who 
 had been purposely sent on other beats. As we passed the 
 Snake-house we discovered a fine fellow stretching himself across 
 'the doorway, upon which the hammock-men began then- prayer, 
 " Borl-ah,Borl-ah,^' and hurried along in dread of his crossing their 
 2)ath, wliich would have entailed a present of rum aud cloth 
 fupon us, besides causing unnecessary and unwelcome delay. The 
 market-place was still as the grave, the shops being cleared of all 
 their contents, while numerous bats and chanting cicadas seemed 
 to be the only li\'iug things in our neighbourhood. 
 
 We were soon abreast of the Atin Li-hun, " The big tree of 
 Whydah," a huge bombax, which reared its lofty head one 
 'hundred and fifty feet above the ground. The limbs of this 
 .enormous " monarch of the forest " would make very tolerable 
 trees of themselves, and the trunk was suj^ported by gigantic 
 buttresses, covered with prickly excrescences, and measuring at 
 least two hundred feet round the outside of them. Between 
 each of -these necessary supports hundreds of persons could hold 
 a conference, and travellers from the interior assemble under 
 its ample shade to collect their escort, which en route usually 
 becomes separated into a line of stragglers extending over the 
 greater part of a mile. The neighbouring quarter is called At'ni- 
 daho, and is filled ^^'itll fetiche huts, while the tree itself is 
 mysteriously connected with the welfare of the town. A few 
 yards beyond the Big Tree is the dwelling - house of Sogro, 
 cousin to the king (not nominally so, as Burton says). Like most 
 of the houses of the nobility, little was to be seen from the out- 
 side but the thatched roof of the various apartments within the 
 outer wall. The entrance was decorated vdi\ two small white 
 rags fixed to slender poles, after the fashion of a flag. One of 
 his principal servants here presented me with a calabash of water
 
 CHAP. IV. "OFF AT LAST." 73 
 
 and a bottle of rum, I took the former and distributed the latter 
 among the hammock-men. 
 
 Beyond Sogro's is the Custom-house, but our passage beneath 
 the joji was secured by my stick, which, being wrapped in a white 
 cloth, indicated our being upon state business. The officer pros- 
 trated himself before the emblem of authority, and wished us 
 <jrod-speed. The country immediately to the north of Whydah 
 is a rolling prairie, with clumps of cotton and umbrella trees inter- 
 spersed, looking something like a park. The road is about twenty 
 feet wide, but cut into ruts by the feet of the passengers, who, 
 being without shoes, are forced to tread on the softest spots they 
 can find for the soles of their feet, although I have fi'equently 
 seen them capering about like madmen on a platform that would 
 quickly make shoes cry out for help. It is a curious sight to see 
 a file of porters walking one after the other along a road as 
 broad as an English turnpike ; and as the rear and van are in 
 constant conversation the approach of a troop is heralded for some 
 distance beforehand by the harsh chattering of the people com- 
 posing it. The grass was fresh and green, although the night 
 was so dark as to render but little of the landscape visible. Sea- 
 wards numerous topes of the oil-palm spread their feathery leaves 
 to the refreshing sea-breeze that was blowing strong at the time, 
 bringing the roar of the surf, like distant thunder, as a basso 
 accompaniment to the shrill treble of the crickets and cicadse 
 that, occasionally joining in chorus with a cree! cree! creel cree! 
 completely deafened us. As we left the town behind us our pace 
 slackened, and John coming alongside complimented me on being 
 now actually en route for Abomey. We now settled down to a 
 steady walk of about three miles per hour, and I congratulated 
 myself upon having a very good set of hammock-men. They 
 were eight in number, and had been impressed into the service by 
 Quinun. Truly despotism sometimes has its advantages, for if I 
 had been inflicted with some of the professional hammock-men, I 
 should have sufiercd as much by my journey as if I had been, to 
 use an old saying, " trussed in a bag and tossed on men's heads."
 
 74 JOUENEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. iv. 
 
 As it was, the night was warm, with just sufficient breeze to render 
 the atmosphere comfortable ; and ensconced in my hammock, with 
 the lanyard of the awning under my right knee and a capital 
 cigar in my lips, I envied not any person in the universe. 
 
 The principal hammock-man was Egble-egbah ("broken so bad 
 as not to be capable of being repaired "), one of the drollest 
 characters I ever met with. When we were out of hearing of the 
 town he commenced his capers, dancing and thro^ving his whole 
 body into such contortions, as would put a professional acrobat 
 to the blush. Besides which he was continually cracking jokes, 
 and although they were probably passed in a great measure at 
 our expense, yet as I did not know a word of the language they 
 fell upon a listless ear, so far as I was concerned. Occasionally 
 he would rally the men upon their failings as first-class hammock- 
 men, and then he would mimic some well-known character to 
 such perfection that I could not restrain from laughing myself. 
 But give the negro plenty to eat, and his natural jocularity will 
 develop itself in spite of slavery or anything else. 
 
 In about twenty minutes we entered a thick copse that shut 
 out the little light across the open plain, and nothing was visible 
 save the arms of the trees immediately overhead as they stood 
 out yet blacker against the sable sky. This clump is composed of 
 cotton trees, figs, croton {Croton iiglium), and mango, the smell of 
 which is anything but pleasant. Soon the croaking of innumer- 
 able frogs proclaimed our approach to water, and in a few 
 minutes the earthy, fetid smell of a lagoon assailed our nostrils. 
 The bush before-mentioned evidently owed its luxuiiance to the 
 fertilising influence of the lagoon. The road across was of the 
 corduroy species, the soil being too spongy to allow wading. 
 Trunks of trees had been cut into ten-foot lengths and placed 
 side by side ^'ithout any fastening. Now came the tug of war. 
 Beside the path was three feet of black mud, wdth a layer of 
 inky water some few inches deep above it. The night was pitchy 
 dark, and the logs were up and down, and with wide intervals 
 between them. This, conjoined with the fact that if they allowed
 
 CHAP. IV. A COKDUROY EOAD. 75 
 
 me even to be splashed with the water they would be severely- 
 punished, rendered the passage anything but a pleasant piece of 
 business to the hammock-men. Egble-egbah went on as pioneer, 
 while four others grasped the clews of the hammock. By dint 
 of struggling violently and considerable agility, combined with a 
 large amount of energetic swearing, the passage was effected 
 without mishap, although several times I thought I was about to 
 form an unpleasant acquaintance with the slimy ooze on either 
 hand. This pleasant spot is known as the Agbana "Water, and 
 varies in depth according to the season. In the rains in June it 
 is waist deep, and crossed by canoes, which are poled from side to 
 side. About Christmas time it is half-way up the leg ; while in 
 February it is "frozen over" by the sun, which forms a thick 
 cake of dry mud on the surface, w^hich is, however, so treacherous 
 that travellers frequently slip through into the black morass 
 beneath, to the utter discomfiture of the pots of oil or merchandise 
 they may happen to have on their heads at the time. It runs in 
 a contrary direction to the Whydah lagoon, viz., from east to west, 
 and joins the Porto-seguro Waters above Ague. 
 
 The north bank of this fetid stream is a fac simile of the 
 south, and on its highest point is a small village, Yonu-Pakhou, 
 celebrated as supplying the finest y^ms to the Whydah market. 
 The road now descends with a gentle slope to a kind of spinney, 
 the road through which was of the kind best calculated to try 
 any traveller's temper, for in the rains the water takes advantage 
 of the ruts worn by the feet of the people, to find an exit from 
 the higher ground near the village we had just left. An attempt 
 to render the path less perilous to the safety of the oil jars, by 
 filling the h611ows with earth, has resulted in a miserable failure. 
 The rains had washed away the earth from some parts, while it 
 had carried it to others, and the sun had baked the deposits as 
 hard as bricks. The consequence was that the general surface 
 was a succession of hummocks and holes, some eighteen inches 
 or two feet deep, amongst which the hammock-men floundered 
 for about half an hour, until I felt as if a ride in a brick-cart
 
 76 JOURNEY TO THE CAriTAL. chap. iv. 
 
 over a frozen ploughed field would have been a positive 
 relief. 
 
 Beyond this copse the I'oad again ascends, and trees disappear 
 until we come to the plantation round Savi. It was too dark to 
 make any accurate observations, but I could see that the staple 
 crops were maize and cassava, and a few oranges, plantains and 
 cocoa-nuts were occasionally to be discovered in the gloom. The 
 houses in Savi are for the most part built of palm branches laced 
 together into huge mats, which are fixed to a wattled framework, 
 something similar to a Bakali dwelling on the Gaboon. The 
 town was silent as the grave, but as we suddenly turned a corner 
 we came upon a smouldering fire. I here dismounted and sat 
 down in my chair under the shade of a fig-tree. In a few 
 moments a slave appeared, who brought water and liqueui-s, and 
 was soon followed by his master, the caboceer, Akponi, governor 
 of the place, but subject to the Avogan. As my journey was to 
 be kept secret as far as Tauli, he danced in silence, and after 
 smothering his head with dirt, drank my health. 
 
 He produced his pipe, and, after filling, offered it to me, but I 
 preferred to continue the cigar I was at the time smoking. 
 Luckily for the olfactory nerves, Dahoman etiquette permits 
 smoking, even in the royal presence. A huge calabash containing 
 a cooked rooster, some boiled maize, yams, oranges, and papaws 
 Avas then presented to me as a token of the friendship Akponi 
 wished to establish between us. In return I dashed a bottle or 
 two of rum, which educed an elaborate speech from the caboceer, 
 referring to my great generosity and other blarney, all calculated 
 to impress me with the idea of my own greatness, and that a few 
 bottles of rum extra would be the correct thing after such a 
 laudation. 
 
 In a few minutes we were again en voyage, Akponi leading 
 the way for a half mile or so, after the usual custom of the 
 country, when a distinguished guest is leaving. Beyond the 
 reception tree was the market, of course entirely deserted at this 
 hour, while the Denun was only ten minutes' walk from the
 
 CHAP. IV. THE NYNSIN S^VAMr. ' 77 
 
 southern gate, so diminished is Sa^d from its former glory as the 
 metropolis of the kingdom of Huedah. 
 
 Beyond Savi a descending road through tall grass led us in 
 ten minutes to the Nynsin Swamp, a repetition of the marigot 
 to the southward of the to"wn, the hlack mud stirred up hy the 
 displacement of the corduroy exhaling an odour if possible 
 more fetid. Mosquitoes and sand-flies swarmed in myriads, 
 keeping one in a constant qui vive to slay any valiant fellow who, 
 thirsting for the blood of the saints, had the temerity to alight 
 on our bare flesh. Tobacco smoke seems only to render the 
 atmosphere more enjoyable to these tiny pests. This swamp 
 extends in a semicircular form from the Coast Lagoon, near 
 Ague, to the same water below Whydah. It is so drawn in the 
 map in Dalzel's ' History,' but is only continuous after the rains. 
 In Mpengala's time (1780), the great-grandfather of the present 
 king, it was described as a river, and crossed by a pile bridge. 
 This was the northern boundary of the kingdom of Huedah, and 
 a by no means insignificant defence, for the Toll people, who re- 
 sided on the north shore, possessed few, if any, canoes. The only 
 available ford could be easily defended by a few hundred men ; 
 but Hoofon, the King of Savi, placing unlimited confideoco in 
 the Danh snake, the tutelary deity of his country, opposed no 
 resistance to the passage of the Dahoman troops, save a few 
 snakes. The result has been already alluded to. 
 
 This " river " is now reduced to a boggy morass, about a 
 quarter of a mile broad, bordered with thickets of lovely ferns 
 and herbaceous shrubs, which, by daylight, would have a pleasing 
 effect when contrasted with the sunburnt grass of the plain 
 beyond ; but at present we were only left to imagine their appear- 
 ance, as it was pitch dark when we crossed it, and one had to 
 be constantly on the alert to prevent a capsize. 
 
 Beyond the swamp is a grassy plain abounding with Palmyra 
 palms (B. flabelliformis) , here called a cocoa, which is one of the 
 most useful products of the country. Tlie trunk is fusiform in 
 shape, being thicker towards the crown than at the foot, and is
 
 78 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. iv. 
 
 much in demand for rafters and cabinet work, as it is almost 
 imperishable. Nothing is more common than to see a man 
 utilising the old " cocoa-nut beams " from a ruined hut in the 
 construction of a new dwelling. The summit is crowned with a 
 series of flabelliform leaves, often expanding to an area of a square 
 yard, which rustle in the breeze with a so^nd peculiarly their 
 own, as Burton very happily says, reminding one of the pattering of 
 rain upon thick foliage. The fruit is arranged in clusters round 
 the leaf stalks, and has the appearance of huge oranges. It is 
 rarely eaten, as it has a harsh, stringy substance, with a flavor of 
 ginger. In old age the crown disappears, and the spindle-shaped 
 trunks have a singular appearance. The tree yields excellent 
 palm wine, as I have myself experienced on the South Coast, but 
 the Dahomans seldom, if ever, extract it, as they prefer the 
 more intoxicating production of the oil-palm. This tree is erro- 
 neously called a " cabbage palm " by Mr. Duncan. It would 
 form a noble ornament to our shrubberies. 
 
 Two miles of this plain brought us to the edge of the forest, 
 that extends, with but few interruptions, to AgHme, a distance of 
 thirty-five miles. A slight descent brought us to the Adangwin 
 (black water), known to Europeans as the Toli "Water, another 
 corduroy-bridged bog, often dry at Christmas, but at the present 
 time a pea-soup liquid, seasoned with decomposing vegetable 
 matter — a very paradise of diatoms. Leaving this by a rugged 
 ascent, we arrived at the Denum of Toli, the Toree of Mr. 
 Norris, situated on a plateau some 180 feet above the sea. 
 Dawn was just breaking as we entered our quarters, the posting- 
 house of Quinun, who, like all other grandees, has a house in 
 every large town on the road to the capital, which are used as 
 inns on their frequent and sudden journeys to Abomey. The 
 house was built on a similar style to that at Whydah, but with 
 less finish. Like all Dahoman villas, it consisted of a series of 
 huts and courtyards within an enclosing wall. The apartment I 
 occupied was about thirty feet square, with a raised floor of hard 
 beaten mud. The wall was of swish, with several triangular
 
 CHAP. IV. THE LION OF DAHOMEY. 79 
 
 niches cut in it, used for devotional purposes and to liold the 
 earthen pots, which, when filled with oil and furnished with a 
 shred of cotton cloth or twisted cotton, constitute the ordinary- 
 lamp of the country. The walls and floor were rendered smooth 
 hy a coating of cow-dung, which, when dry, is no bad substitute 
 for plaster, although I generally used to absent myself during 
 the application. The courtyard to the left enclosed the fetiche- 
 house, containing the lares ct penafcs of the owner. I noticed 
 two whitewashed chamelions, a pig, several Legbas, a snake, and 
 a large group of nondescript animals, all rudely moulded in 
 swish, and having their appropriate offerings before them. Several 
 ants had made their nests in the wall, while the termites, or 
 ''bug bugs," as Beecham called them, had converted the ridge- 
 poles into wooden-coated earthen beams. 
 
 Just as we entered the town we were startled by the growl of 
 a leopard, which are said to be plentiful in the neighbourhood. 
 This animal is held sacred, being appropriated by the king as 
 his fetiche emblem ; the lion of Dahomey, according to Beecham's 
 bombastic account, being only a leopard (not heraldic), the king 
 of beasts being unknown south of the capital. The leopard is 
 said to be a relative of the king, and is allowed to roam un- 
 molested unless he kills or injures any human being, upon which 
 the fetiche priests, for a consideration, will absolve an unlimited 
 number of hunters who, after despatching the animal, deliver the 
 brains to the priest, who makes most wonderful charms with 
 their burnt ashes, while the skin becomes the property of the 
 Crown. After a hasty breakfast we prepared to start, but wore 
 delayed for nearly an hour by the usual drinking reception and 
 acrobatic dancing. While this monotonous ceremony was going 
 on, I endeavoured to solace myself for the delay by watching a 
 number of finches who were building their nests in an immense 
 tree just outside the courtyard. The bird is about the size and 
 colour of a yellow-hammer, and did not betray the slightest fear 
 at the proximity of human beings. The tree was covered with 
 hundreds of nests, formed of grass stems woven into a sjDherical
 
 80 JOUEXEY TO THE CAPITAL. CUAP. iv. 
 
 shape on the end of a twig, the entrance being on the lower side, 
 so that admittance coidd only he gained on the wing. Their 
 chattering was deafening, and throughout the country nearly 
 every market-place is furnished with its finch colony, while the 
 shopkeepers, regardless of the inevitable consequences, display 
 their eatables for sale beneath the shadowing branches of the 
 tree. Perhaps the frequent donations unintentionally showered 
 upon the made dishes add a piquancy to the flavour that is 
 refreshing to the Dahoman palate. 
 
 Toli has a population of about 1,500, while Savi boasts of but 
 perhaps 1,200, although as many as 5,000 have been stated as 
 residing here. Probably the whole population of the ancient 
 kingdom never exceeded 4,000. Toli was the capital of a small 
 kingdom, about half the size of the Isle of Thanet, and possessed 
 a sea port on the Toli Water, called Foulan, the very name of 
 which is now forgotten. There is a market for ground-nuts at 
 Toli, and the place enjoys the reputation of being one of the 
 healthiest on the West Coast. A few weeks at Toli would do 
 much towards restoring the constitution enervated by a residence 
 on the low-lying coast lands ; but, unfortunately, the laws of the 
 countiy do not permit the merchants at Whydah to make ex- 
 cursions beyond the precincts of that town. 
 
 We left Toli about eight o'clock, and after passing over a sandy 
 district about two miles broad, which was covered in patches 
 with low brushwood, over which the wild convolvuli spread their 
 entwining arms, while the small coppices were environed with a 
 belt of viA^d green Guinea-gi'ass, from amongst which the antelope 
 may be scared at dawn by the early-rising hunter. 
 
 Beyond this shrubbery the forest again commences, and the 
 road becomes "beautiful in the extreme. The path, about twelve 
 feet wide, has the appearance of a secluded drive in England. 
 The trees, arching overhead, shut out the rays of the sun, except 
 where vertical, while on either hand the forest assumed the 
 appearance of a well-kept plantation. Many of the trees were 
 enveloped in wild creepers, which often embrace the supporting
 
 CHAP. IV. AZOHWEH. 81 
 
 trunk in so deadly a grasp as to squeeze the life out of tlio 
 tallest and stateliest of tlie many fine trees with which the forest 
 abounds. Ofcen a tree whose wood is dry as tinder presents 
 the appearance of vigorous growth, but a closer inspection reveals 
 the decaying branches enveloped in a gauzy lacing of llianas, 
 whoso yellow, pink, and blue flowers shine out brilliantly in the 
 golden sunshine which bathes the tree-tops in vivid light. The 
 creepers sometimes wind round a young shoot, giving a curious 
 spiral form to the stem, which it retains after the climbing plant 
 has withered and decayed. Now and then a tree-trunk can be 
 -descried, twisted and distorted into every conceivable shape, 
 owing to the effect of these spiral chmbers upon the infancy of 
 the tree. The twisted and curled walking-sticks affected by a 
 certain class of shopmen are nothing to be compared for contor- 
 tions to these woody ringlets of the forest. 
 
 The road ascends with an imperceptible rise for about six 
 miles, and then a slight descent of a mile brings us to Azohweh, 
 or Asawa, the intermediate stage between Toli and AUadali. 
 The town is hidden from the road by the dense forest, a few house- 
 tops only showing their brown roofs to the left. The town is built 
 on the second of the plateaus that rise step-like to Abomey, and 
 was the frontier of the old kingdom of Alladah. Its population 
 has been estimated at 400, but probably the half is nearer to 
 the truth. 
 
 The caboccer received us under the shade of a mighty lig- 
 trce in the market-place, and offered water, spirits, and dancing 
 for our entertainment. In the centre of the market-place was a 
 conical shed, built for the accommodation of travellers from the 
 capital. It is now protected by a row of well- honeycombed four- 
 pounders on the north side. I here tasted some of the finest 
 oranges to be obtained on the coast ; but the water, as indeed is 
 the case everywhere between Alladah and the coast, was white 
 with the clay held in suspension. 
 
 At this place we overtook our baggage, and fell in with the 
 escort of Takonch, a caboceer, going to Whydah on the king's
 
 82 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. iv. 
 
 business. His umbrella ■^•as brought out, and "wc were entertained 
 by a ballet and feu de joie, ending in a request for rum. Truhv 
 teetotalism has but few supporters in Daliomey ! 
 
 Azobweh is surrounded by plantations of yams and maize^ 
 After the grass is burnt in Februarj-, the women turn over the 
 soil with short hoes, the iron blades being of native manufac- 
 ture, and fixed on the handle by a thong and lashing, so that the 
 helve forms an acute angle with it ; the profile being something 
 like that of the letter I in the pointed hand, so much in 
 rogue among the ladies. Considerable practice must be neces- 
 sary to enable the operator to use it with comfort or eficct ; 
 for I once essayed to use one to turn over the soil in the 
 pursuit of Coleoptera, but the first stroke completely smothered 
 me with mud. The yams are sown in rows like potatoes, 
 and a good crop is ensured by a fetiche in the- form of a large 
 yam impaled on a stick stuck at each corner of the planta- 
 tion. The maize is s6wn by dibbles, four grains being generally 
 deposited in each hole, and the whole field is hoed into ridges, 
 after the seeds have been covered by a dexterous shuffle of the 
 operator's heel. The fetiche for this crop is a small earthen pot 
 full of ground com, mixed with palm oil, and a circle of the 
 maize-flour strewn round the pot. The crop often yields a 
 hundredfold in the two harvests in each vear, the first occurrins: 
 in September and the latter about Christmas or January. 
 
 Beyond Azohweh the road narrows to about three feet, and the 
 forest is interrupted by clearings overgro-wn with tall grass, one of 
 the greatest drawbacks to African travelling. However expert 
 the traveller may be in the management of his hammock awning, 
 the tall w^ry stems, bent by the passage of the foremost bearer, 
 spring back against his face and hands with an unpleasant 
 stinging smack. This, however, is but the beginning of the 
 trouble, for the grass is covered with minute barbed hairs which 
 penetrate the skin and cause an intolerable itching, accompanied 
 "snth A-iolent inflammation. This grass abounds with small 
 chameleons of a tint precisely the same as that of the leaves, and
 
 CHAP. IV. GUX CUSTOM HUTS. 83 
 
 their deliberate movements as they slowly advance, one foot before 
 the other, on their stately progress from one spot to another, is 
 ludicrous to behold. Should a fly, however, come within tongue- 
 shot, their small bead-like eyes assume a brighter look, and in 
 an instant their long tongue is darted out with unerring aim, 
 quick as the lightning's flash, and as suddenly returned, bearing 
 the hapless insect on its viscid extremity to the creature's mouth. 
 
 At distances of about a hundred yards, standing a few feet to 
 the left of the j)ath, we passed small huts about six feet square, 
 built of wattled palm-leaves. These were the Gu-hoh, the 
 stations of the soldiers during the Gun custom, hereafter to 
 be described, and extend from Abomey to Whydah, a distance of 
 about seventy miles. 
 
 Two musketeers arc appointed to each hut, and at a given 
 signal the firing commences at Abomey, and is taken up seriatim 
 by the soldiers along the road, until the feu cle joie arrives at the 
 Avogan's house and the English fort. A present to the king is 
 then given to a runner, who passes it on to others stationed at 
 short intervals along the route. Meanwhile the return fire goes 
 back to Abome)^ where it arrives, or ought to, in about an hour 
 after it set out. 
 
 At intervals, too, we passed small clearings, in the middle of 
 which a fetiche shed, sacred to Aizan, the street god, was erected, 
 protecting some grotesque image from the weather. These way- 
 side gods are supposed to prevent any evil spirit from injuring 
 the king or his subjects as they pass along the road. 
 
 An hour's pleasant travelling through this wooded country 
 brought us to a savannah, covered with short grass and bearing 
 abundant evidence of having formerly been a plantation. A 
 mile of shrubbery beyond was quickly passed through, when wo 
 emerged upon the maize-fields and cassada plantations of AUadah, 
 mostly situated on the eastern side of the road, and bearing 
 evidences by their extent that we were approaching a town of 
 considerable size. The bush to the left was covered with beauti- 
 ful flowers of every hue, a magnificent scarlet passion-flower 
 
 "a 2
 
 84 JOURNEY TO THE CAriTAL. chap. iv. 
 
 being conspicuous by its fiery colour. Numerous butterflies 
 sported themselves amidst the fragrant blossoms, awaiting the 
 near approach of the collector with perfect coolness, and when 
 just within reach of the net darting over the bush with a rustle 
 easily interpreted by his irritated feelings into a derisive 
 laugh at the would-be captor's chagrin. Lovely little Lycconas 
 flitted from flower to flower as if the azure sky had dropped winged 
 atoms to the earth. The crash of a monkey leaping from branch 
 to branch, with apparent reckless heed to consequences, ofttimes 
 mingled with the tweet-tweet of the sunbird, rivalling the hum- 
 ming-bird of the new continent in the metallic splendour of its 
 plumage. 
 
 A quarter of an hour's walk through the plantations brought us 
 to the Deuun, a more imposing structure than any we had hitherto 
 seen. The road was crossed by a fence of six-foot poles, croA^med 
 by a vigorous growth of shoots. In the centre was an opening 
 about six feet wide, through which ever)- traveller must pass. It 
 is the custom for the caboceers, when sending any of their ser- 
 vants on a journey, to furnish them T\dth a stick carved with the 
 heraldic insignia of the owner and a number of cowries or other 
 small articles denoting the number of persons this primitive pass- 
 port allows to accompany the principal messenger. This pennit 
 is carefully scrutinised by the Dcnun keeper, and woe betide the 
 unlucky wight who is detected in tr5'ing to pass without due 
 authority. He is at once suspected of some sinister design 
 against the king or one of his officers, and taken before the 
 caboccer, who is fully empowered to fine or imprison the de- 
 linquent. This custom prevents the escape of the residents in. 
 any of the conquered towns. 
 
 So suspicious are the people, that the king's custom-house and 
 pohce officers will challenge any person they may meet, who is 
 not generally known to them; and if a track is found in the bush 
 leading in a direction opposite to that of the usual paths, they 
 will follow it up to discover the producer. Instances frequently 
 occmTcd, to my knowledge, of slaves who attempted to escape
 
 CHAP, IV. DAHOMAN "PUBLICANS." 85 
 
 from their masters ; but altliougli tlicy were sometimes at large 
 for a week, they never succeeded in getting far away from their 
 starting-point without being discovered and brought back pri- 
 soners by some of the government spies. 
 
 As ver}^ little crockery is made in Whydah, there is a constant 
 trade in it between the coast and the interior. The grand pot- 
 teries are near the Aglime swamp, and every pot, water jar, fetiche 
 dish, or cooking pan that passes through Aliadah has to pay a toll 
 of ten cowries. The collectors are appointed by the king, and as 
 their office is liable to be taken away at a moment's notice — by 
 the mere caprice of the monarch — they invariably try to make 
 the most of their position while they fill it. 
 
 The Dcnun was surrounded by numerous low fetiche-houses, 
 the walls of many of which were rudely stuccoed in various 
 devices, representing birds, men, animals, and fetiche hiero- 
 glyphics. The perfume of some of the offerings was most over- 
 powering, especially as a great sacrifice had lately been made, 
 and the blood on the images was not quite dry. The "publican" 
 welcomed us with the usual teetotal ceremonial, and in virtue of 
 our king's stick passed our retinue en masse; and I noticed that it 
 had been wonderfully augmented in numbers since leaving Azoh- 
 weh, by the addition of several petty traders who, because they 
 were in our train, escaped the tariff'. 
 
 Beyond the fetiche-ground the forest recedes some two miles, 
 and the road is bordered by thick shrubs. An incessant chat- 
 tering then fell upon our ears, and we soon passed through a 
 small market-place, the finches, as usual, vicing with the women 
 in making the most noise. More fetiche followed ; then a row of 
 small sheds, built for the accommodation of travellers and stump 
 orators, and suddenly turning off" the main road to the right, we 
 soon found ourselves within the precincts of Quinun's house. 
 
 Aliadah is the cradle from which sprang the notorious kingdom 
 of Dahomey. A resume of its history may, therefore, be in- 
 teresting. It is mentioned by the early writers under the name 
 of Great Ardrah, and had a sea-port on tlie coast called Little
 
 86 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. iv. 
 
 Ai'drali, or Offra, now called Porto Kovo, the Beach Toivu, not 
 the main to's^Ti on the lagoon. This fact must be borne in 
 mind, as otherwise the confusion between the two Ardrahs in 
 treating of the history of the country will be overwhelming. It was 
 also called Essaam or Azcm, i.e., the great towTi, a name bestowed 
 upon it by the Arabic-speaking residents during its prime as the 
 capital of an extensive kingdom nearly twice as large as Ilucdah. 
 Its boundaries were Toli on the south, the Denham waters on the 
 east, Aglime swamp on the north, and the little kingdom of 
 Sumwahwe to the west. The inhabitants were called Ffons, 
 which has been misspelt Foys and Fouins by various authors, 
 and there is considerable evidence in favour of their being a 
 migration from the banks of the JM^iger, as many of their customs 
 partake of a Moslem character. 
 
 In the beginning of the seventeenth century, the king of 
 Alladah (as we shall for the future call Great Ardrah) died, leaving 
 the government in the possession of three sons. As usual a 
 quarrel ensued, and at length, after considerable time had been 
 spent in palavers at "Whegbo, a village a few miles north of 
 Alladah, it was decided that the eldest should still reside at 
 Alladah, under the title of Alladah-akhosu, or King of Alladah. 
 The second son, Dch, was to have Little Ardrah or Porto Novo as 
 his portion, and his capital was afterwards known as Hue-bonu. 
 This circumstance ^\'ill explain the origin of the term cousin as 
 applied to the King of Porto Novo by the present King of 
 Dahomey, and also his claiming that district as part of his 
 dominions. The youngest, Daho, had the whole coimtry to the 
 north assigned to him. lie first settled at Zeugnoomie, and then 
 at TTliAvaweh between Kana and Abomey. 
 
 The King of Uhwawch, Awesu, took a considerable fancy to 
 Daho, who was allowed to settle in his kingdom, and who then 
 assumed the name of Donun, and the two names have been cor- 
 rupted to Tacoodonou in Dalzel's account. 
 
 The Ffons at Alladah had divided themselves into three sections, 
 each following the leader he most approved of. Owing to the
 
 CHAP. IV. ORIGIN OF DAHOMEY. 87 
 
 representations of Apronali, a caboceer at Alladali, a considerable 
 number went over to Dalio after his settlement at Uliwaweh. Mean- 
 while Daho, who was an artful designing follow, asked permission 
 of Danh or Dah, the king of the neighbouring state of Gedavin, 
 to allow him to build a house on a small portion of his land. 
 This was acceded to, and the thin end of the wedge inserted 
 that was to result in the overthrow of Danh. As the followers 
 of Daho increased in number, his incessant demands for more 
 land became intolerable to King Danh, who, when impertinently 
 requested to assign a portion of land near his capital, exclaimed 
 in a tremendous passion, " What ! have I given you so much 
 land and yet you want more ? Must I open my belly for you to - 
 build your house upon?" Daho thereupon declared war upon 
 Danh on the grounds that ho had been insulted, and, aided by 
 the Uhwaweh people, totally routed the forces of Danh and took 
 the latter prisoner. He ordered Danh to be brought into his 
 presence, and after taunting him with his defeat, said : " You told 
 me that I wished to build upon your belly, now I tcill build my 
 palace upon it." Danh was killed, and the foundation stone of a 
 palace was laid over his corpse. The palace was called Danh- 
 homen, «.e., on Danh's belly, which has been reduced to Dahomey, 
 in consequence of the peculiar pronunciation of the n. This took 
 place in 1G25, when the Ffons changed their name to Dahomans. 
 Such was the origin of a nation, known by report, perhaps, 
 better than any other in Western Africa. 
 
 Awesu, the host of Daho, died soon after the conquest of 
 Oedavin, and Daho succeeded to his throne with but little oppo- 
 sition. Alladali remained a separate kingdom until 1724, when 
 Agajah, the fourth king of the Dahoman dynasty, determined to 
 have a sea-port of his own, and began a series of conquests re- 
 sulting in the subjugation of Alladali and the death of her king. 
 Mr. Bulfinch Lanibc, a factor, who was taken to Dahomey by 
 the conqueror, gives an exaggerated account of the capture of 
 the place ; his narrative being the imaginative description of a 
 mind paralyzed by fear. He whines and groans in confinement
 
 88 JOUKNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. iv.. 
 
 in a manner disgraceful to any man, and suggested to the governor 
 at "Whydah that if he would send some " cast-off woman, either 
 white or mulatto, that can be persuaded to come to this country, 
 either to be the king's wife, or else to practise her old trade," ho 
 would "gain his Majesty's heart entirely by it," and he would 
 believe anything he said about his going and returning with 
 more white men from the Company. 
 
 Agajah took the "strong name" of Alladah Koh, i.e., Lord of 
 Alladah, after its subjugation, and the toTVTi is reckoned as the 
 "Westminster of Dahomey, a royal palace being kept in repair in 
 readiness for a \\di from the King. No Dahoman monarch can 
 assume any strong name until he has sat on the old coronation 
 stool of the Kings at Alladah. The present King performed this 
 ceremony in 1869, and after his return commenced his palace at 
 Jegbeh, as courtly etiquette did not allow him to erect a house of 
 his o^vn rnitil after the coronation ceremony at Alladah. As 
 might be expected, the purest Ffon is spoken at Alladah, the 
 language spoken elsewhere being a jjcitois of Ffon ^yith. that of 
 the original tongue ; forming differences far more striking than 
 "Geordic" and "Cockney" English. 
 
 After dinner I prepared for the infliction of another reception, 
 due notice of which had been sent by Mengoten, the principal 
 caboceer. About four we mounted om* hammocks and were 
 carried past several cotton trees literally bending beneath the- 
 Aveight of thousands of bats, which hang in heaps from every 
 available point of trunk and branch during the day, and at. 
 night sally forth in legions, completely darkening the sky by 
 their multitudes. Five minutes brought us to the square of 
 Alladah, an open space of about twelve acres, with a few umbrella 
 and cotton trees, topped by a vulture or two, eyeing the concourse 
 of people with a sleepy look. To the left or western side is 
 Alladah singbo, the "Storey house" of Alladah, a barn-like 
 structure of red swish, with a rude gateway in the centre and the 
 first floor illuminated by oblong hole-like windows with black 
 shutters. These singbomen are occupied exclusively by the royal
 
 CHAP. IV. ALLADAH SIXGBO. 89- 
 
 family, no officer, however liigli, being allowed to build a bouse of 
 more than one storey. After I Avas made a prince a singbo was 
 erected for me at Jegbeb, much to the chagrin of the court digni- 
 taries. I did not stay long enough in the capital to see it finished,, 
 and doubt not that its erection was stayed the very day after my 
 departure. The singbo occupies about one-fifth of one side of the 
 wall enclosing the royal abode ; the north-western end being 
 occupied by a long shed with a sloping thatch projecting from 
 the wall and reaching to within four feet of the ground. In the 
 centre of this shed is an entrance to the palace, so that the 
 teaching in the gate, so often alluded to in Holy Writ, is illus- 
 trated even in Dahomey, for these Pwe, or sheds, are the great 
 judgment halls of the country, all state palavers being settled in 
 them. Swish appears to be somewhat scarce at xilladah, for 
 many of the houses, and even the palace, had wattled palm 
 branches, in lieu of mud walls, to divide the various courtyards 
 from one another. 
 
 Akpulogan, the second in command, had furnished me with a 
 company of musketeers, and, on arrival at the singbo, we were 
 carried three times round the square, Beecham turning a livid 
 green with fright because I would not bow to the empty palace,, 
 for at that time the Amazonian residents, with but few excep- 
 tions, had gone to Whydah "svith the King's oil. Under the 
 gate-shed were seven umbrellas, the splendour of each increasing 
 with the dignity of the wearer, although each caboceer can 
 adopt any colour or device, within certain limits, that his fancy 
 may dictate to him, provided that each denotes some meri- 
 torious act of the bearer. Beneath the shed I could dimly 
 see a number of figures, but what their dresses were I could 
 not say, as the shadow was in deep contrast to the glare of 
 sunlight above the roof As we were carried round the square, 
 I noticed on cither side of the gate two poles, on the tops 
 of which, fixed on wooden platters by a nail, were two heads 
 — one that of a man apparently about forty years of nge, and the 
 other that of a woman about five and twenty. The grey hair of"
 
 90 JOUEXEY TO THE CAriTAL. chap, iv, 
 
 tlie man formed a grim contrast to the black distorted visage upon 
 which the death agouy was still visible ; while the woman seemed 
 to have met her fate Math perfect iudiifcreuce. These ominous 
 reHcs were the objects of longing desire to a swarm of vul- 
 tures, who were kept off by four men stationed with long rods 
 to drive off the marauders. I afterwards learned that they were 
 the heads of one of the i^mazons and of a drummer who had 
 been detected in a liaison by one of the spies. Decapitation, or 
 enrolment into the " Gate-opening company," are the only alter- 
 natives of this crime ; but, as a rule, the offenders are beheaded, 
 always on the scene of their offence. 
 
 After the procession had straggled for the third time round the 
 square, I dismounted and proceeded to the gate, sheltered from 
 the sun by a white umbrella which had been sent for my 
 use. Arrived at the gate, I discovered four caboceers sitting in 
 state upon their huge Gold Coast stools as they have been some- 
 what inaptly called. We halted before the principal cabocecr, 
 and I sat do-\vn, while Amoosu and the rest immediately fell on 
 their knees and began to smother themselves with the red earth, 
 a process by no means pleasant to anyone to leeward. This sand 
 bath over, a table was brought out from the mysterious gloom of 
 the shed, and a calabash covered by a showy cloth followed. 
 The cloth was spread upon the table and the calabash opened, 
 revealing a smaller one containing water, which, by-the-bye, is 
 purer here than anywhere else in Dahomey, and two decanters 
 of rum and trade-gin, besides several bottles of muscatel and 
 various highly-coloured liqueurs. The whole was then covered 
 Avith a second gaudy cotton cloth of a bandana pattern. 
 
 My stick was then taken by Amoosu, who, crawling on hands 
 and knees, approached the Mcnjoten. He then, with many bom- 
 bastic expressions and a considerable amount of blarney, informed 
 him that I was the King's friend and that His Majesty had 
 commissioned him to bring me to Abomey — that I was desirous 
 of paying my respects to the caboceers of Alladah in return for 
 their kind reception, and that I was greatly pleased with the
 
 CHAP. IV. RECEPTION AT ALLADAH. 91 
 
 magnificence and wealth of the country — the latter being, of 
 course, his own invention. The Menjoten then arose, and with 
 a pompous stride came out of the shadow of the Pwe. He 
 shook hands, -with the usual fillip of the fingers, and commenced 
 the aristocratic Dahoman salutation, which is as follows : the water 
 is offered and nominally tasted, and the guest says, " Sin diyye /" 
 " This is good water," and the host replies, " Sin Iwh ! " " May the 
 water cool your heart." This formality over, rum was poured 
 out, and " Okod hii !" "I compliment you," was exchanged 
 about half a dozen times between us, followed by " Okod hu 
 haddan !" " Good evening to you," with an occasional " Atyan- 
 </iiau." "Are you quite well ?" I was then " complimented" for my 
 journey, and assured that " God would make everything prosper 
 with me." Rum was then distributed to my escort, all putting 
 their noses to the ground and smothering themselves with red 
 sand, after the draught, and guns were discharged hap-hazard, 
 the muzzles in the air, and about half missing fire. 
 
 The Akpulogan, the Muetonun and two other caboceers were 
 then presented in due form, all going through the same ceremonial 
 with the exception of the hand shaking. A gong-gong man 
 next struck two notes several times in succession on his instru- 
 ment, and silence was proclaimed. He then notified to whom it 
 might concern, that the White friend of the King and the Men- 
 joten were going to drink His Majesty's health. Upon this 
 the whole square set up a " Bloo, hloo, hloo,^' just like a lot 
 of school-boys, beating their lips with their fingers at the 
 same time. The rum was poured out into two glasses, a small 
 quantity tipped over on to the ground, to the manes of the 
 King, and, holding the glasses on high, we paused. Down on 
 their marrow-bones went the whole company, with the exception 
 of the two principal performers, the Menjoten and myself; a 
 perfect deluge of sand followed, the assembly revealing nothing 
 but a chaos of moving arms, dirty red heads, and flying sand, 
 and amidst the " hloo-hloo " and " horl-ah-horl-ah " of the excited 
 €rowd we tossed off the liquor, and as no heel-taps are allowed
 
 82 JftURXEY TO TEE CAPITAL. chap. iv. 
 
 in this ceremony, I took the precaution of selecting the 
 smallest glass on tlie board. More guns were fired, a bright firo 
 •was lighted in the square to illuminate the scene, wliile the 
 darkness in our neighbourhood was rendered Aisible by several 
 Dahomey lanterns — a palm-oil lamp in an iron wicker frame. 
 Dancing and smoking then commenced in full saving, and were 
 kept up to about nine o'clock, the caboceers displaying their 
 powers, and requesting me to giye them a specimen of my 
 gymnastic ideas; but ha\'ing a proper respect for my joints I 
 declined, as if I had not danced "Dahomey fashion" I should 
 have been laughed at. 
 
 When I was about to retire, the Menjoten informed me 
 that he and the other caboceers had "dashed" me two goats, 
 a dozen fowls, four ducks and a pig ; while they had also p]-e- 
 sented my hammockmen with some rum — about a teaspoonful 
 all round. I returned the compliment by making sketches of the 
 square during the ceremonial, with which they were highly 
 delighted. The Menjoten then accompanied me to my house, 
 a btod plajing a choice selection of airs, purely Dahoman in 
 their want of melody. On passing the "trees of bats" on our 
 way to quarters I noticed the utter absence of foliage on those 
 frequented by the Cheiroptera, the branches being as bare as elms 
 in winter. I found my dash had already arrived and I was 
 requested to inspect it, but, feeHng somewhat tired with the day's 
 proceedings, I d-eclined, telling Amoosu that I could depend upon 
 him to see everything to rights. 
 
 Alladah is built on the third stair of the Dahoman terrace, at 
 an elevation of 280 feet, and enjoys a mild climate much re- 
 sembling that of Toli, but the sea breezes are by no means so 
 strong. It is surrounded by thick forest, and is supplied by 
 water from a small stream to the north, running east to the 
 Denham Avater ; but the best, which as usual is monopolised by the 
 king, is found in a depression to the south-east. The water in 
 this spiing is " tabooed " to any one except those belonging to the 
 palace, and, as usual in such cases, the locality is " fetiche." To
 
 CHAP. IV. THE DAHOMAN LASSA. 93 
 
 the west of Alladah, about two miles in tkc bush, is Somome, the 
 Lassa of Dahomey, for there are the shrines of some of the prin- 
 cipal gods of the country ; and there the candidates for the priest- 
 hood, the higher branches at any rate, are generally instructed 
 and pass their no\4tiate. This town has been kept secret from 
 the intrusion of white men, but I obtained permission to visit it 
 on my return. Unfortunately, time would not allow me to a"S' aU. 
 myself of this chance, but on my return to Dahomey I hope to in- 
 vestigate the mythical fetiche town of Alladah. The town seems 
 to be cleaner than most in Dahomey, and the people are, by all 
 accounts, better soldiers ; if good looks have anything to do with 
 bravery they certainly may be, for they are the handsomes 
 people in the country.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL {cmitAmied). 
 
 Departure from Alladah — Attogau — "Hand-clapping" K'Henvi — Pictu- 
 resque situation — Pied-walled N'Henvi — Palm --wine — luli — Whegbo — 
 Its origin — Akpweh — Thunder-storm — Despatch of messengers to the 
 King— A pleasant night's rest — The Aglim^ swamp — Rough travellings 
 Convenient thorns — Ants — A bed of " down " — Wondonun — Its origin — 
 Aievajeh — Aglime prarie — Zogbodomen — First meeting with the Amazons 
 — Public nuisance — Plantation scenery^ — Kana — Aixival at our journey's 
 end — Visit from the Benazon — Message from the King. 
 
 After a sound night's rest we started at daybreak, and pro- 
 ceeded as far as the square, where I ahghted and bade farewell 
 to the caboceers who had assembled to see me ojff. After " Aftvan 
 a guan ! " *' It is a good morning," and innumerable okodhus, 
 a salute was fired and we started, the caboceers preceding us for 
 about a quarter of a mile until we arrived at a row of carronadcs, 
 all useless, and either imbedded in swish or fixed in the angle of 
 two logs crossed in the form of the letter X. The troops then pre- 
 sented arms, yelled out " wul Ich,'' and groaned to perfection, and 
 at last left us to pursue our way through the plantations of maize 
 and aikun, a kind of bean, which is cultivated in short rows, the 
 earth being heaped up as potatoes are treated in England, or, to 
 form a better simile, like so many graves. The country for the 
 first few miles was more open, savannah and forest alternating. 
 Passing the hamlet of Donu, at the first rise from Alladah, the 
 fourth from Whydah, wo came to the village of Attogau (the 
 Attogan of Burton), Atto's to^vn. This warrior received the 
 sohnqKct of Atto, the monkey, from his agility in climbing a wall 
 at a siege. He had prepared a small donation for our acceptance,
 
 CHAP. V. N'HEXYI ASIN"\VEH. 95. 
 
 but gave us unmistakable signs that he expected to be repaid a 
 hundi'cdfold. 
 
 Leaving Attogau after a few minutes' rest, a pleasant walk of 
 three miles through a dense forest teeming with life, brought us 
 to N'Hcnvi Asinweh, i.e., Hand-clapping N'Henvi. This sin- 
 gular name was bestowed upon it in consequence of the following 
 circumstance. Agajah, when on his way to attack Toli, arrived at 
 this place, then an open savannah only, and encamped. During 
 the night a messenger arrived from Abomey, to inform him of 
 the death of his mother, Addonoh. As the exigencies of the case 
 did not permit him to return, he clapped his hands together, and 
 tore his clothes in token of grief ; and, to show that he was not 
 unmindful of the respect that ought to be shown to his mother, 
 ordered a town to be built on the spot to be called JST'Henveh- 
 Asimceh, to distinguish it from N'Henvi Bovoh, or Red house 
 N'Henvi, wliich is situated about two miles to the north. It is 
 one of the most picturesque spots in the whole country, the mag- 
 nificent trees forming a splendid background to the cottage-like 
 houses round the square. A conical-roofed palaver house was built 
 in the centre of the market, but it was so infested with centipedes 
 that I preferred to take my chance on a fallen tree trunk, under 
 the friendly shade of the caboceer's tattered umbrella. The office 
 of caboccer of this place is one of the sinecures of Dahomey, being 
 always held by one of the aged relatives of the king, who is 
 exempt from attendance at the Customs, and from bearing arms. 
 The courteous old chief, whose name was Atakpeh, received us 
 with due civility, and gave me some of the finest yams I ever 
 tasted. 
 
 A walk of half an hour brought us to N'Henvi Dovoh, the Hawee 
 of many books. AVe here partook of breakfast in a shed opposite 
 the fetiche house, travellers bound to the coast resting under tho 
 shade of the "palace." This courtly mansion is a mere ruin, 
 built for the accommodation of the monarch in his progress to 
 AUadah. As this only occurs once in each reign, and as any 
 house can be put in thorough repair in a couple of days, it is
 
 ■S6 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. r. 
 
 allowed to fall into ruins, a few Amazons and a "keeper" being 
 stationed in it. Tliis is the Burton-on- Trent of the country, for 
 the only palm wine the monarch will condescend to taste is manu- 
 factured here. It has a taste of warm, flat ginger beer, but is 
 highly intoxicating. There is a slight descent from iN^'Henvi 
 Asinweh to this place, about 40 feet by my aneroid, which 
 gave the altitude of N'Henvi Dovoh at 285 feet. 
 
 Beyond E,ed Walled K'Heuvi the forest becomes thicker than 
 "before, the gigantic climbing plants binding the trees into an im- 
 passable jungle. I noticed a group of three immense ti'ees, each 
 at least 30 feet in girth, which, growing very near each other and 
 throwing out branches in every direction, had eventually become 
 a triumvii'ate ; for in several places a natural grafting of the n- 
 terlockuig branches had taken place, the place of union forming 
 a knob-like excrescence. The flowers were most lovely, especially 
 the passiflora). Blossoms of every hue adorned each bush and 
 tree, while gaily-tinted butterflies flitted from flower to flower, 
 "whose petals were often put to the blush by the splendour of the 
 wings of those flying gems. There are plenty of iuli here, for 
 the white rings, the skeletons, as they may be called, of the 
 polyped lay thick on the ground. The movements of the legs 
 of these creatures when in motion may be compared to the 
 advance of a wave. A step is made by the foot in front, which 
 is followed up by each succeeding foot throughout the whole 
 length of the animal. When m a hurry, tv»-o or three of these 
 leg waves will be seen rolHng towards the tail, as the creature 
 scun'ies across a pathway. 
 
 We had determined to proceed to Kana via AkpAveh and the 
 Aglime swamp, as being a nearer route than the Tofib, as the 
 road through Koji is called, which sku'ts the western edge of the 
 swamp. These two roads fork at N'Henvi Dovoh, the former 
 being the nearest, and the latter the one generally preferred in the 
 rainy season. 
 
 Three miles from Dovoh we halted at the village of AYhe-gbo, 
 and were entertained by the caboccer with a ballet. This spot is
 
 CHAP. V. PALAVER OF WHE-GBO. 97 
 
 memorable as tlie site of the great palaver between tbe three sons 
 of the last king of Alladah. According to the heralds, the name 
 of the village was Aikun (a kind of bean) before the conference, 
 but that after several days had been spent in futile endeavours to 
 settle the momentous question, one of the councillors, anxious to 
 put an end to the Dahomaan Tichborne case, cried out, "IFhe," (no 
 person is able to settle) " gbo" (so great a palaver). This was held 
 to be conclusive, aiiti the speech became the name of the town 
 according to the usual custom. IS'umerous instances exist of 
 places and people whose names are derived from remarkable 
 speeches, and the strong names of the kings are usually the 
 abbreviations of proverbs. 
 
 The Suzakon, as the caboceer of AVTie-gbo is called, is a very 
 young man, who succeeded his father in the mayoralty of the 
 place, and in the possession of his father's wives also, when that 
 worthy was slain in the ignominious retreat from Abeokeuta. 
 
 The road beyond Whe-gbo begins to slope towards the Aglime 
 swamp, and the forest becomes thicker than before, while 
 numerous india-rubber vines, eight inches in thickness, evince a 
 greater amount of humidity in the soil. The fetiche houses on 
 the road-side were odoriferous with the blood of slaughtered fowls 
 which had been sacrificed to obtain the all-powerful aid of the 
 god to prevent mishaps to the oil carriers, oi route to Whydah. 
 
 Our halt for the day was at Ak-pweh, situated on a rise form- 
 ing the southern bank of the Aglime swamp. The people arc 
 the descendants of the old Aizoh, who occupied a small kingdom, 
 of which this was the capital. It extended from the northern 
 frontier of the kingdom of Alladah to Aglime, and from Akpweh 
 to Toffo, twelve miles to the west on the edge of the Aglime 
 swamp. It was conquered by Agajuh about 1730, and the bulk of 
 the inhabitants of the two principal to-svns were transported to 
 Abomey, where they have gradually been merged into one family 
 wdth the old Ffons. The history states that the " Tuffoes '* 
 massacred a caravan of Dahomans who were going to Alladah, 
 and that after they had been chastised by Agajah, 400 of tbe
 
 OS JOUEXEY TO THE CAPITAL, CHAP. V. 
 
 prisoners were beheaded, and sent to inform Agajah's father of 
 their defeat. After passing through the market-place, which 
 contained a very meagre supply of Dahoman luxuries, we turned 
 sharply to the right, and put up for the night in Quinun's house. 
 A huge circular fetiche temple was erected in the centre of the 
 range of buildings which was said to cover one of the most 
 powerful private fetiches in Dahomey. Happy Quinun, to be 
 the fortunate possessor of so potent a doit)' ! * 
 
 The house was literally buried by immense trees towering up to 
 the skies, whose stately heads formed a conspicuous landmark 
 for miles around. So dense was the forest that, although the 
 sun was shining brightly when we entered it, the thick, over- 
 arching foliage cast so deep a shadow as to render the path 
 gloomy in the extreme. Several monkeys took flying leaps 
 from branch to branch, while the pretty green and scarlet love- 
 birds twittered on every bush. TVhile Joe was preparing dinner 
 I was busy writing my journal, and in putting up a few specimens 
 of Rhopalocera which I had taken en route. As the sun dis- 
 appeared behind the tall trees, the peculiar " souffh" and uneasy 
 aspect of the forest in general, gave us timely warning of the near 
 approach of a thunder-storm, which we had noticed brewing in 
 the north-east for some hours before, while all nature seemed 
 hushed as if anticipating some awful calamity ; old Tampeh, 
 the landlord, was propitiating Kheviosoh, the thunder god, by care- 
 fully trimming some of the Say-an, or thunder-tree shrubs that 
 formed a cltevaux-de-frise around the fetiche house. Soon after, 
 the storm burst upon us in all its fury. The steel-blue lightning 
 ran along the ground, and lit up the tallest trees with tongues 
 of fire, as it rent boughs, large enough for trees themselves, from 
 the mighty trunks. The thunder was of that sharp, detonating 
 character only heard when the storm is close at hand, while the 
 rain fell literally in sheets. 
 
 This chaos lasted for about two hours, during which time three 
 trees in our immediate \'icinitj' had been riven by the electric 
 discharge, while the roads were transformed into rivulets and the
 
 CHAP. V. A LATHERING MATCH. 99 
 
 courtyards into small lakes. Sach an opportunity for a bath was 
 not to be lost, and my people turned out en masse and commenced 
 a latberiDg match, among themselves. The aspect some of them cut 
 was ludicrous in the extreme. AfFon, one of the hammockmen, 
 a native of Houssa, had so enveloped himseK in a coating of lather 
 as to resemble an enlarged specimen of the woolly dogs whoso 
 squeaking powers are the admiration of English children ; while 
 others appeared to be trpug to imitate the papier-mache figures of 
 Father Christmas, by transforming their sable locks mto snow- 
 white tresses. These operations were carried on in the pouring 
 rain, the clothes, such as they were, being not unfrequently washed 
 on the persons of the owners. Ablutions over, followed a copious 
 greasing tableau, until every skin shone like polished walnut. 
 
 I here despatched a messenger with my stick to give the king 
 a formal notice of my near approach. Like everything connected 
 with royalty in tliis happy land, a simple every- day occurrence 
 was clothed in a garb of savage ceremonial. The gate of the 
 house was closed, every stranger being turned out into the street. 
 No one was present in my private quarters but the persons imme- 
 diately concerned in the delivery of the message. My stick was 
 wrapped in an envelope of figured silk — a handkerchief in fact, 
 and when all was prepared, I was requested to stand up. Ghu- 
 galah and another officer of inferior rank then prostrated them- 
 selves on the ground and copiously besmeared themselves witL 
 dirt, ending by rubbing their mouths from side to side on the bare 
 ground, and touching the earth with their foreheads. "While 
 this dirt bath was going on, I held the stick before them, and at 
 its conclusion passed it on to Amoosu, who immediately went 
 through the same performance. I then told Beecham to give 
 my compliments to the king, and tell the messengers to let His 
 Majesty know that I should cross the Aglim^ swamp to-morrow, 
 and should in all probability arrive in Kana about nightfall. This 
 message he delivered to Amoosu, embellishing it with sundry 
 compHmcntary speeches, and the old man repeated it to the 
 two messengers. They then "bathed" again and repeated the 
 
 H 2
 
 100 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. v. 
 
 message, each paragraph being impressed iipo^ the memory by 
 sundry markings in the sand, a custom practiced throughout 
 the whole country. The repetition of the message being satis- 
 factory, more bathing followed, after which Ghugalah presented 
 a naked scimetar to me, sajong that I was to cut off his- 
 head if he failed to deliver my message exactly as he had 
 received it. 
 
 A head of cowries was then given to the two messengers for 
 subsistence by the way, and they started about eight o'clock in 
 the evening to make their way through the swamp, which would 
 be rendered more treacherous than before on account of the heavy 
 rain. Two couriers at least are always despatched "svith royal 
 messages, so that the one may correct any mistakes that may be 
 made by the other ; and in the court of Dahomey every great 
 man has a confidant who is always present during interviews 
 with the king, and who takes particular notice of all conversation 
 passing between the monarch and his master, so as to perform the 
 part of a living book of reference in case a dispute should arise as 
 to the wording of any message. 
 
 The storm over, the thermometer showed a temperature ten 
 degrees lower than before, and after a smoke I retired to hed, but 
 alas ! not to slccj). My couch was the usual Dahoman sofa, being 
 merely a framework of the petioles of the bamboo tree, elevated 
 about nine inches above the floor, with a raised portion at one 
 end, forming a rude pillow. This bench, covered with a mat, 
 forms the bedstead of high and low, and is, notwithstanding its 
 rugged surface, a more pleasant couch than the bare earth. I 
 generally softened the irregularities by the intervention of a rug, 
 and capped my luxury by a pillow stuffed with dried grass- 
 Upon this occasion my bedstead was placed close to the partition 
 in the shed forming my bedroom. The other side of this bulk- 
 head was the landlord's store of firewood, measuring some twenty 
 tons or thereabouts. 
 
 Xow, however profitable and pleasing decaying wood may 
 be to the entomologist, its too near proximity is by no means
 
 CHAP. V. A LIVELY BEDEOOM. 101 
 
 conducive to the enjoyment of a night's rest. Knowing tlie 
 facilities afforded by a woodstack for the abode of insects and 
 other " vermin," I had doubts as to the propriety of turning 
 in. Feeling very tired, however, I thought I would risk it, and 
 consequently lay down on the edge of the bed furthest from 
 the wall. On a chair by my side a palm-oil lamp was burning, 
 which served to render the darkness more palpable, casting 
 fantastic shadows upon the bamboo lattice-work of the partition 
 as it flickered and sputtered in its porous earthen receptacle. 
 
 Scarcely had I made myself comfortable, when a huge hairy 
 spider of hungry mien and vengeful aspect made his appearance 
 through one of the interstices of the bamboo. Knowing by dear 
 bought experience in AustraHa the unpleasant effects resulting 
 from the bite of the Tarantula, I determined upon the slaughter 
 of this visitor. Up I got, and taking steady aim, quickly 
 despatched him by a blow of my net- stick to the Elysian fields 
 for spiders. The jar occasioned by the blow seemed to wake 
 up legions of cockroaches, and I soon had the pleasure of seeing 
 the dexterity with which the spiders secured their Orthopterous 
 prey. Creeping stealthily along towards their intended victim, 
 keeping as much as possible in the shadow of the hollows in 
 the bamboos, so as to assimilate the colour of their hirsute 
 bodies with the wood, they slowly made progress. Wlien 
 arrived within shot, they darted with the rapidity of lightning 
 upon the back of the cockroach, which in vain wriggled itself 
 about in the hope of escaping the claws of its destroyer, whose 
 mandibles wore busily at work. No Old Man of the Sea ever 
 kept more pertinaciously upon the back of any Sinbad than did 
 the spider upon the back of the cockroach. Closer and closer 
 grew the fatal embrace, until at length, rendered powerless by the 
 repeated injections of venom, the cockroach succumbed, and the 
 spider commenced to revel upon the delicious viands, apparently 
 appropriating the juices only to his use, as the carcase was usually 
 disdainfully cast aside after a few moments. 
 
 Now, I thought that an account of this might be very
 
 102 JOURNEY TO THE CAriTAL. chap, v 
 
 interesting to the naturalist cosily seated before a fire in a 
 snug parlour, but tbe proximity of the objects at tbat time was 
 anjiiliing but a desideratum to me, since I \vanted to snatch a 
 few hours' rest preparatory to the arduous joui'ney through the 
 " Swamp/' 
 
 I thought that if I placed the light on the other side of the 
 wood-pile, it would attract the " varmint " to it, and so leave me 
 solus. Accordingly, I took it to the rear, but alas ! on returning 
 I soon found that darkness only added to the horrors of the scene. 
 Sundry creakings and scratchings above and around me, on the 
 roof and on the floor, were magnified iato the tramp of innumer- 
 able centipedes, spiders, and scorpions thirsting for my blood. Out 
 I rushed for the light, and besides getting a thorough soaking in 
 the rain, then pouring in torrents, I nearly broke my neck in 
 falling over some of the boys sleeping across the doorway. How 
 I envied them ! 
 
 After securing the light and refilling my pipe, I made another 
 attempt to sleep, resolving to despise such puny foes. This is all 
 very well in theory, but not so very comfortable in practice. The 
 scratchings were renewed with redoubled \'igour, and a wriggling 
 noise on the palm-leaf thatch of the hut caused a not very 
 pleasant sensation in one's nerves, suggestmg a stream of cold 
 water do-oTi the back ; when, to complete the thing, the light gave 
 an expiring effort, and finally went out in a sputter of derision. 
 
 I would not give up even then, but determined to go to sleep 
 in spite of all the spiders and centipedes in Africa. Vain, rash 
 vow ! Not five minutes after it was uttered, when, slap upon my 
 upturned face, came an enormous centipede, apparently about a 
 pound at least in weight. This was too much for human 
 nature to endure any longer, so up I jumped (and quickly 
 too), thirsting for blood. A light was struck, and there 
 on my pillow, comfortably curled up, with the greatest sangfroid, 
 was my tormentor, a fine fat green centij)ede, a fellow of 100- 
 venom power. 
 
 I wonder what the advocates for general peace towards men
 
 CHAP. V. PLEASANT BEDFELLOWS. 103 
 
 and animals would have done in such a case. Perhaps have 
 quietly walked out to let the poor thing finish in calm security 
 the sleep of innocence, or maybe have caught a handful of cock- 
 roaches for its breakfast. At any rate, what I did was to deli- 
 cately take the creature up in my long forceps and quietly drop 
 it into the red-hot embers of our fire ; and I must confess that I 
 felt no qualms of conscience when I saw it sputtering in the midst 
 of the fire. I then took out a long bench, like a form, and placed 
 it under the eaves of the roof, and with my pillow under my head, 
 managed to snatch an hour's disturbed slumber ; my dreams con- 
 tinually bringing me into contact with spiders as big as elephants, 
 or centipedes a hundred feet long. The rain came on with 
 redoubled fury before daylight, and the roof leaked like a sieve ; 
 but what of that : a wet bed was perfect bliss in comparison with 
 the companionship of such vermin. 
 
 By sunrise we had made a hurried repast, and had started for 
 "the Swamp," ^jf/r excellence, of Dahomey. This formed the 
 northern frontier of the kingdom of Alladah, and extends, with 
 more or less continuity, from the Denham waters to the lagoons 
 northwards from Porto Seguro. In the central parts there is no 
 perceptible current, but towards the west there is a slight drainage 
 into the Hahoh water. Its breadth near Akpweh may be 
 estimated at five miles, but towards the west it widens consi- 
 derably. It appears to be a drainage from the upper portion of 
 the Denham Lake. Its passage in the most favourable season — 
 January — is arduous, but in the rains absolutely perilous ; for the 
 quagmires are so deep and treacherous that broken limbs are the 
 frequent result of the numerous sHppings on the slimy clay. It 
 •would form a formidable obstacle to the passage of any armed 
 force, and the " Koh " — " the Swamp," as it is called by the 
 natives, is a better protection to the capital than the whole bevy 
 of invincible Amazons. 
 
 After passing the red swish wall of the palace, we entered upon 
 a steep descent, which soon brought us to the black tenacious clay 
 of the swamp. Here our troubles began. The swamp was skirted
 
 104 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. v. 
 
 vriih. a fringe of tall gi'ass, wliich. gives one a severer cra-cra tlian 
 any other grass in the country, and abounds in snakes and chame- 
 leons. Passing this belt, we entered upon the swamp proper. 
 The road was as uneven as if it had been turned over by a 
 Titanic spade, and the twists and turns in it were so intricate that 
 it was a most difficult matter to thread my hammock between the 
 trees, which grew very close together, and were sure to have a 
 broken stump in the exact spot to give me a severe poke in the 
 back as I was slowly handed by; while, if I put out my 
 hands to save myself, there were plenty of thorns to give me 
 good hand-hold. Mpengala, in 1784, constructed a road through 
 this slough, which had always deterred ^^sitors from going to 
 Abomoy. Tradition says that after the defeat of the Apses 
 in the swamp by the Dahomans, the king gave to each of the 
 caboceers a string of cowries ten yards long, and told them to 
 construct a road of that width from his palace to the beach. 
 Traces of this vast national undertaking are still e\'ident between 
 Akpweh and Whydah, but not a single yard remains witliiii the 
 swamp, although the sloughs were filled up and the trees cut 
 down, so as to reduce the uneven character of the ground to an 
 approximate level. As it now appears, the paths through the 
 swamp seem admirably calculated either to break the neck of the 
 traveller, or, if he escapes that mishap, to mystify him in a perfect 
 iabyrinthian maze. 
 
 The clay was in huge lumps, slimy at the sides, and more or 
 less baked by the sun on the top, which was polished smooth as 
 if blackleaded, by the naked feet of the wayfarers. If the tra- 
 veller slipped off this polished apex, he sank up to his knees in 
 thick tenacious clay, fi'om which he had to be in several instances 
 literally pulled out by his companions. Here and there were 
 deep pits, some filled with Avater, and others with insidious mire, 
 the surface being thinly " frozen over " by the sun. One step on 
 this, and suffocation would assuredly be the result, unless speedily 
 rescued. 
 
 Straggling creepers formed admirable traps to catch the feet
 
 CHAP. T. THEOUGH THE SWAMP. 105 
 
 of tlie unwary, while the innumerable fragments of oil jars, 
 calabashes, and other receptacles for produce which strewed the 
 path on every hand, betokened the heaTy toll which the Koh 
 exacted upon the porters who passed through it. In short, the 
 passage was one uninterrupted series of acrobatic leaps and twists 
 from hummock to hummock, enlivened by the frequent laugh at 
 some hapless fallen one, who often had his revenge from the 
 cachinnations of his companions, when, thrown off their balance 
 by the violence of their laughter, they toppled into some quag- 
 mire close by. 
 
 The frequent trains of oil-carriers enlivened the solitude 
 by their loud cries of warning to each other, rendering their 
 approach audible several minutes before it was visible. In nearly 
 every gun-custom hut, groups were to be seen resting from 
 their mountebank labours ; not a few bewailing the loss of 
 some jar of oil or piece of pottery, the sale of which was to 
 have procured a soul-stirring draught of Hamburg potato rum. 
 "Within this swamp butterflies abound, often forming a perfect 
 carpet, as, with expanded wings they sipped the grateful moisture 
 from some boggy spot. Dragon flies were plentiful, a glorious 
 Libellula, with a blue gloss on his wings lilce the azure hue of a 
 Morpho, being here and there noticed. Ants, too, were in 
 thousands, the cofiee-bag nests of one species reminding me of 
 those I had seen in the inner Gaboon country, while others 
 erected structures like huge toad-stools or tea-canisters. The 
 long trains of these creatures were a fruitful source of annoyance, 
 for they swarmed across the path at frequent intervals, resenting 
 any disturbance by a unanimous attack upon the oficndcr ; while 
 not unfrequently, as the hammock brushed between two bushes, a 
 perfect shower of these fiery little animals would descend upon 
 the devoted traveller. On such occasions I used to wish that I 
 was a polype with plenty of arms to throw ofi" my tormentors. 
 
 The road forks at every fifty yards or so, and scouts are sent on 
 ahead to reconnoitre, each invariably declaring that the path he 
 had taken was the worst, so that for all the benefit we derived
 
 106 JOURNEY TO THE CAriTAL. chap. v. 
 
 from their pioneering, "wc might as well have been "without them. 
 In this way we proceeded, as much sideways as end on, for about 
 four hours, and had progressed probably about half as many miles, 
 and I began to flatter myself that I was going to escape Scot- 
 free. No such luck, however, was in store for me, for all at once 
 I missed the foremost hammockman, and was deposited upon a 
 luxurious bed of soft black mud. Down, down, I went with a 
 deliciously easy gHding motion, until I was half-immersed as I 
 lay in the hammock on the surface of the mud. The unfortunate 
 bearer had slipped into a mud-hole up to the middle of the thigh. 
 As he was momentarily sinking deeper, I called out to the others 
 to drag him out, and so they certainly did with a wrench of the 
 arms which would have dislocated mine ; and, leaving him to 
 scrape the tenacious clay from his legs, they raised the hammock- 
 pole and lifted me out of my easy couch. So great was the 
 tenacity of the clay and the suction of the hammock, that it took 
 the united efforts of eight men to clear the hammock from the 
 bog, as they had to work from the edge;? of the hole. Luckily 
 I had pro\'ided a spare hammock, as the black bcmired one I had 
 just left would have cut but a sorry spectacle at a " reception " at 
 any of the \'illages. 
 
 In the months between Christmas and May the passage 
 through the swamp is much easier, although the hard-baked 
 hummocks of clay are exceedingly painful to the naked feet 
 of the bearers, who prefer making new tracks through the bush 
 to continuing to the old path. "We saw a few tortoises, and 
 occasionally a monkey would crash through the trees, while 
 parrots of several species kept up a continuous chattering and 
 screaming overhead. 
 
 A few minutes' march or rather wriggle from the scene of 
 our mishap, brought us to Kohmeh, so called from the name of 
 the caboceer, and in half an hour we entered the grassy envi- 
 rons of Woudonun. This is a village built on a sHght eminence 
 in the middle of the swamp at the suggestion of the chief 
 eunuch, who told Gelele that the journey between Akpweh
 
 CHAP. V. OEIGIN OF WOXDONUN. 107 
 
 and Aievajeh Vi-as too far to be performed by women in tbo 
 wet season without a resting-place, or half-way house. Upon 
 this the king said that if he could find a suitable place ho 
 might make a village and appoint any friend to be the cabo- 
 ceer. The eunuch said, in the usual metaphoric language in. 
 vogue in such cases, " The king has only to wish for the place 
 and the ground will talk." Tliis hint was taken, and to enable 
 the reader to understand it, a peculiar custom of the country 
 must be described. If a child is born with teeth or speaks before 
 the usual time, the phenomenon is considered as of ill augury to 
 the country, and the innocent cause is condemned to be smothered 
 in mud. The place selected for this barbarous practice was near 
 the present village of "Wondonun, so that the eunuch alluded to 
 the place where "the ground" — i.e., the infants buried within 
 it — " cried out." The interpretation of the word is, therefore, 
 won, = the ill thing, clonun = speaks sense. 
 
 The village is, as usual, completely hidden from the road, and 
 contains perhaps twenty families. The place has a fever-stricken, 
 unwholesome appearance, and although the caboceer essayed to 
 muster a dancing-party, his efforts were unsuccessful. It is cele- 
 brated for its yams and the peculiar taste of its plantains. We 
 rested for an hour under the usual caravansary shed, during 
 which interval the bearers employed themselves in scraping the 
 caked mud from their shins. 
 
 Beyond this halting-place the swamp is more passable, although 
 still bad enough to try one's temper. As we passed on, the 
 hummocky nature of the road disappeared, and the black clay 
 became mixed with sand, while patches of tall cra-cra-inflicting 
 grass were passed through at frequent intervals. In two hours 
 the chattering of finches and the din of voices announced our 
 approach to human habitations once more, and a few minutes after 
 the tortuous path through the grass conducted us to the square of 
 Aievajeh, where we once more found ourselves upon the rufous 
 soil, characteristic of the whole coast. This fact is made known 
 by the etymology of the name — viz., Aic, earth ; va, red ; jch, on
 
 108 JOTJKXET TO THE CAPITAL. chap. v. 
 
 the top of; i.e. (The town huilt) on the top of red earth. The 
 place is surrounded by a thicket of tall reed-like grass which 
 is admirably adapted for thatch, and is exclusively employed 
 for that purpose in the royal palaces. It contains a small 
 market, offering nothing but the veriest necessities of Dahoman 
 life. The caboceer, Semehveh, is authorised to examine the 
 passports of all suspected persons, and to imprison any delinquent 
 until he has submitted the case to the examination of the 
 Ajakyaho, an officer at Abomey, 
 
 After a small reception of the usual type, we started afresh, 
 iind with a gentle ascent attained the celebrated Aglime, or 
 Agreme,* as Burton has it, whose Uhon niihon covered per- 
 haps three acres. On the left of the road was a long shed 
 used as a palaver house, when the Iving deigns to visit the 
 place, which was utilised as a green-room to prepare us for a 
 reception on a larger scale than we had experienced since 
 leaving Alladah. The place boasts a palace built of a mix- 
 ture of swish and bamboo wattling, witliin which is a shed 
 reserved for the accommodation of white men on a \-isit to the 
 king, who are required to remain here, when His Majesty is at 
 his country palace at Kana, until summoned to the royal 
 presence. The name is derived from a tradition that when a 
 former chief named Jeh-mneken had command, the fetiche 
 people declared that his wall would totter to the ground if he 
 did not send a toll to Dahomey equal to 169 cowTies per diem. 
 As Jeh-mneken had private information that this was only a 
 pretext to extort money from him for the use of the priests, he 
 said that the balance of the toll Avould always be found Aglime , 
 i.e., in the wall itself. 
 
 At Aghme we first come across a gravelly swish making 
 the walls " stronger " than nearer the coast. There is a 
 long inclined plane from this town to the Mahi hills, broken 
 only in one or two places, and the country looses a great 
 
 * The I and r in Ffon are so peculiarly pronounced that it is often impossible 
 *o detect the difference.
 
 CHAP. V. AIEVAJEH. 109 
 
 part of tlie pluviatile character it possesses nearer the sea. 
 There are traces of copper, and, notmthstanding Burton's state- 
 ment to the contrary, a little gold, which is visible as specks in 
 every piece of pottery manufactured here. Mica abounds in 
 the earthenware, it is true, but the result of analysis at home 
 has revealed the presence of a small quantity of the precious 
 metal. 
 
 After the usual gjannastic reception, we were invited to break- 
 fast by the caboeeer, who conducted us to a pleasant arbour 
 surrounded by oranges, limes, and pine apples, which formed a 
 dessert to the more substantial viands of roast and boiled goat, 
 fowl, and yams. About three in the afternoon we again started 
 for our last stage, the way leading through tall grass-covered 
 plains, amidst which the lovely scarlet-headed weaver birds 
 gleamed out like dots of flame. Here and there a huge pile 
 co'S'ered with vegetation proclaimed the abode of the white ant, 
 or bug-bug, as Beecham rendered it. These creatures are very 
 destructive to the roofs of the houses, and I was often solicited 
 to prescribe an unfailing remedy for their attacks. 
 
 The character of the scenery became totally changed, reminding 
 me of the country near Cape Lopez by the park-like beauty of the 
 wavy grass, amidst which were thickly scattered clumps of noble 
 trees. In about an hour we arrived at the junction of the cross- 
 road between Toffo and Aglime. Here there was a miserable 
 village rejoicing in the euphonious title of Zogbodomen (the 
 name of a peculiar mode of dressing the hair), where we were 
 watered and danced to for about half an hour. 
 
 Starting afresh, we passed through a palmyra forest, on the 
 slope of a hill, on the summit of which is a Danhwe, or Temple 
 of the Rainbow god. This stands on the right hand of the road, 
 and consists of a long low shed, the inner wall of which is 
 daubed with figures, in all colours, representing men, animals, 
 and fetiche hieroglyphics. In front of the temple, sacred to the 
 God Atin-bodun, is an open space, with an immense Bombax at 
 either end.
 
 110 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. v. 
 
 Wc had scarcely passed this shrine than the foremost of 
 our train yelled out some incomprehensible speech, and my 
 hearers, striking off from the road, plunged headlong into the 
 tall grass. On my angrily demanding the reason, Beecham 
 told me that the " Amajohns " were coming. On listening I 
 detected a tinkle-tinkle, as if from a small cracked bell, and in a 
 minute a train of five women, clad in blue baft^ defiled past us, 
 carrying water-jars on their heads. The front one had a rude 
 hell suspended from her neck, which tinkled as she walked along. 
 I was by no means prepossessed at the first sight of the women 
 soldiers of the empire, but I afterwards learned that these were 
 not the fighting Amazons, but the camp followers o f the fema le 
 braves. Ko man is permitted to meet them on the road, while, 
 if the tinkle of the bell is unheeded, they will stop and rattle it 
 in high dudgeon until the baneful male scampers into the bush. 
 
 This institution is one of the greatest nuisances of the country, 
 for in the capital there are so many of these bands journeying 
 from one of the royal palaces to another, that a straightforward 
 progress of twenty j-ards is scarcely practicable. These worthies 
 passed, we resumed our route, and in a few minutes the whole 
 Kana valley lay spread open to our view. The scenery was 
 totally different from that of the dense forest through which we 
 had been journeying since leaving Toli, while the grass and trees 
 wore a fresher look than in the parched lowlands near the coast. 
 Except that the grass was six feet high, and there were a few 
 jjalms -sdsible, I could have almost fancied myself in a well-kept 
 English park. Clumps of gigantic forest trees, amidst which the 
 stately cotton tree reared its lofty head, a giant amidst a race of 
 Titans, dotted the landscape ; while here and there the A^vid 
 emerald hue of the maize or plantain crops enlivened the more 
 sombre tint of the tall grass. 
 
 At frequent intervals a faint blue curl of the smoke from 
 a wood fire showed us where a secluded homestead lay buried 
 in groves of orange, mango, and banana. The pale yellowish 
 green of the cocoanut stood out in bold contrast to the
 
 CHAP. V. APPEOACH TO KAXA. Ill 
 
 more sombre olive of the oil-palm, while at intervals the 
 fusiform trunk of the palmyra, crowned with its cluster of 
 starry leaves, divested the scene of every particle of monotony. 
 Numerous turkey buzzards circled as moving dots far, far, over- 
 head ; a solitary specimen occasionally perching on the summit of 
 a decaying stump, as if acting as sentinel to its companions, who 
 might be revelling upon the carcase of some animal on the ground 
 below. Sun birds, vieing with the most gorgeous humming birds 
 of the New World in the metallic splendour of their hues, flitted 
 from panicle to panicle of the tall grass, their tweet -tweet 
 reminding one of the note of an English tree-creeper. The 
 "Whydah finches, or " widoAV birds" as they are often called, were 
 often observed, but were destitute of the long tail-feathers 
 which add such a graceful charm to their beauty in the breeding 
 season. 
 
 On the opposite side of the valley, crowning the gentle ascent, 
 is Kana, the Calamina of the old writers. It is a long, straggling 
 town, swish walls and palm -leaf thatch being the building 
 materials, as is the case throughout the country. Even in the 
 middle of the town are large open spaces, with high trees on 
 every side, so that the area of the town by no means gives a fair 
 estimate of the population. Several largo houses are situated on 
 the south side, and the long mud walls surrounding the numerous 
 courtyards of a Dahoman house, give an appearance of a walled 
 town to Kana, as seen from the road. A nearer approach, 
 however, dispels this idea, for the ramparts dwindle to mud walls 
 some twelve feet high, and the ofi" side is often utilised as a 
 receptacle for the refuse, solid and liquid, of the entire household. 
 The former "city" contains about 5,000 inhabitants, spread over 
 an area of about three square miles. 
 
 Passing a small fetiche house to the right, dedicated to Logozo, 
 the tortoise, we began to descend the southern slope of the valley, 
 and in a few minutes we entered the plantations of maize, yams, 
 cassava, &c., which are the national boast, although I could not 
 see any superiority in the cultivation of the various crops over
 
 112 JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL. chap. v. 
 
 that practised at other large towns in the country. At the foot 
 of the hill the road divides into three. The one to the right 
 leads to the Hanan water, used only by the royal household, 
 while the two others lead to the western and central parts of the 
 town respectively. Flowing through the valley is a small stream, 
 the principal source of drinking-water in the town. It has a 
 muddy, horse-pond look, and, as the main road crosses it, it is 
 continually stirred up until the water has much the appearance 
 of thin slip, the white clay beneath the superficial stratum of 
 decapng vegetation being held in suspension for a considerable 
 time. 
 
 No sooner does the sun begin to decline than the women of 
 the place start on their daily joiu'ney for water, and the rivulet 
 keeps up the notorious reputation of all tropical wells as a gossip- 
 ing place. In the rains there are several hollows near the 
 stream, which become the receptacles for the superfluous waters 
 of the rivulet ; and, although the water may become converted 
 into a green slime, so long as any fluidity remains, it is used for 
 drinking purposes. 
 
 We had to make several detours into small bye-paths^ 
 which abound on eveiy hand, in consequence of the bands 
 of Amazonian water-carriers whom we continually met. .They 
 seem to have a pleasure in turning aside any white man, 
 who, if incHned himself to rebel at such an absurd custom, would 
 inentably be dragged out of the road by his negro guards. 
 Sometimes the " bell woman " was a mere child who could 
 scarcely walk ; but still, from the crown prince down to the lowest 
 slave, every male must " clear out." It used to make my blood 
 boil to stand awaiting the passage of a troop of shrivelled-up old 
 hags, whose puckered hides resembled the exuviae of some vile 
 reptile rather than human skin. 
 
 The object of this insane custom is not very clear. Some say 
 that if one of the Amazons were to break her water-pot, the 
 nearest male would be accused of bewitching the portress, and 
 would get into a scrape. Others that it is a protection to the
 
 CHAP. V. THE SEMI-SACRED AMAZON. 113 
 
 chastity of these ancient virgins; but as there are about four 
 women at least to every man in the country, it would seem to be 
 a useless precaution. If a " leopard wife," as the wives of the 
 king are called, journeys abroad, the Amazons themselves have 
 to give way, and the men and women hurry from the path as 
 though a man-eating tiger were approaching. 
 
 Beyond the stream the road is twenty yards wide, but cut up 
 into narrow footpaths by the porters, who travel in Indian file 
 along the broadest roads ; and in a long train, where everybody 
 is conversing with his friend, the rear not unfrequently having 
 an argument with the van, the noise is anything but pleasant. 
 
 A ten minutes' walk brought us to the Gaou Nehou, or Gaou's 
 fetiche house. It is a counterpart to the Rainbow Temple, with 
 a few clay images under conical roofs in front of it, the whole 
 being surrounded by a grove of Ficus. In front of this temple 
 was a line of bamboo tree stalks placed lengthways on the ground 
 parallel to the road. These are a protection to the fetiche people 
 who may be present in the temple when an Amazonian band 
 passes by. The intervention of these sticks prevents any 
 maHgnant influence from the male priest having any effect upon 
 the Amazons ; and whenever any male had occasion to remain for 
 any length of time near a path frequented by these viragos, 
 he always ensured his safety by a line of bamboos. The same 
 talisman separates the Amazons from the remainder of the court 
 within the palaces. 
 
 A few yards from this fetiche house is the Gaou Teh or 
 Gaou's water. The Gaou is the commander-in-chief of the 
 right wing of the Dahoman army; and, before going to war, 
 the soldiers assemble at Kaua, where they encamp in rude 
 bamboo sheds. Before starting, the Gaou performs most extra- 
 vagant fetiche ceremonies at the Gaou Nehou, after which he 
 pours water from the Gaou Teh on his head, thereby intimating 
 that if he does not perform successfully the commands of the 
 king, he will expect the vengeance of his royal master to be 
 poured on his head in the same way as he now pours the water 
 
 I
 
 114 JOURNEY TO THE CAriTAL. chap. v. 
 
 upon it. This Gaou Teh is merely a hollow, and contains no 
 spring, but, no douLt, the fetiche people have means of obtaining 
 water from it unknown to the eyes of the laity. 
 
 Twenty yards from the Gaou Teh is the Kana-gho-nun, or Kana 
 gate. A row of fig-trees, mostly pollarded, extends at right angles 
 to the road for twenty yards on each side. Across the central 
 opening a pole is suspended, from the centre of which a fetiche 
 mat, stained red and green, is hung. The threshold of the gate is 
 also a pole, and we had to alight and walk over this, as no man, 
 the king alone excepted, is permitted to ride through a gate. All 
 my people had a dirt bath, and the gate-keeper made his appear- 
 ance from a low shed to the left, eager for a present, as indeed 
 are all the officials of the government. Near the residence of 
 this custodian are several fetiche huts, daubed with white or red 
 clay. 
 
 Twenty minutes from the Kanagbonun, the road leads between 
 two swish walls, the enceinte to the houses of two caboceers ; and 
 passing a few povei'ty-stricken sheds, where some old women 
 had two-cowrie lots of tobacco, yam, and cankie, exposed for sale, 
 a sharp turn to the left conducted us to our quarter at the 
 " English " house. A few dirty fetiche images, well besmeared 
 with stinking food, " guarded " the approach. 
 
 Passing through a courtyard containing a few open sheds, we 
 entered a second some twenty-four feet square, on the east side 
 of which was a barn-like structure with a lock-up cupboard 
 beyond. These were our quarters where we were doomed to spend 
 many a weary day, for Dahoman etiquette required me to keep a 
 certain amount of seclusion before being publicly received by 
 the king. The landlord was an old man -odth a stiff knee, who 
 hobbled about by the aid of one of the long walking-sticks in 
 vogue. Some of these have a large wooden crescent on the top, 
 while others are surmounted by a kind of sword-guard, so that 
 when the weight is thrown on the stick the fingers are prevented 
 from slipping down by the crescent or the guard. This fellow 
 was the very pink of obsequious politeness, bringing fire, water.
 
 CHAP. V. VISIT FKOM THE BENAZON. 115 
 
 mats and etceteras ; but old ex])erience in African hospitality, 
 whether civUised or savage, warned me that I should be expected 
 to pay for everything througli the nose. He was wonderfully 
 particular in coming to pay his respects to me every morning ; 
 but when I discontinued the glass of rum, his anxiety for my 
 welfare suffered a sudden collapse. How very singular ! 
 
 About eight o'clock Amoosu came in to give notice that I 
 must be prepared to receive several visitors, and scarcely had he 
 spoken than the Benassoh or Benazon was announced. He 
 brought a present of cankies, fowls, cooked goat's flesh, yams, 
 soups, &c., from the English landlady, a high ' dignitary of the 
 Amazonian corps, under M'hose care I was nominally to remain 
 during my stay. Benassoh, who is the chief of the royal 
 commissariat department, passed a number of very " blarneyish " 
 compliments to me, and said that the English landlady begged 
 me to accept the accompanying present as an earnest of what she 
 intended to do for me. 
 
 I could always obtain a supply of food for about a third of 
 my people by sending to this personage in the early morning ; 
 but, except when specially ordered to furnish me mth pro- 
 visions by the king himself, she never forgot to forget my wants. 
 The viands were served up in those earthen vessels usually 
 seen in civilized bedrooms only, but in this favaured land they 
 were generally made to do duty as porringers. These utensils 
 were contained in cylindrical baskets, the top and bottom of 
 which were huge calabashes, each branded with the private 
 mark of the owner. The coat-of-arms of the English landlady was 
 a goat's head between a gun and a man's hand. The porters 
 who carried these provisions knelt down by the side of their 
 respective loads, and. I was assured by Beecham that if they were 
 to spill or spoil any of the food, they would be severely punished. 
 Perhaps it may be so — who knows ? 
 
 This deputation being dismissed, I had to receive the king's 
 message. Ghu-ga-lah and the other messenger entered the 
 courtyard, and kneeling down at my feet, smothered themselves 
 
 1 2
 
 lie JOURNEY TO TTIE CAPITAL. chap. v. 
 
 witli dirt. He bore a stick from tho king, a rude carving sorae- 
 thing like a dolphin's head mtli a man's hand in the creature's 
 mouth. This was wrapped up in a silk handkerchief, which was 
 again covered with a white cloth. "When all was prepared, the 
 stick was undressed and handed to Amoosu, who, with Beecham, 
 was prostrate on his marrow bones. I then stood up and received 
 the stick, of course with all due respect. Ghu-ga-lah then began 
 the king's message, repeating it sentence by sentence to Amoosu, 
 and Beecham interpreting it to me as he went on. After each 
 sentence, Ghu-ga-lah made a stroke on the sand with his finger, 
 the invariable custom when any important message has to be 
 delivered, for the messenger can tell by the number of strokes 
 whether the required number of divisions of the message have 
 been delivered. A rough translation of the message was as 
 follows : — 
 
 " The king's compliments to you ; the king's compliments to 
 you ; the king's compliments to you," repeated three times a la 
 mode. *•' The king thanks you,'' also, three times three. " lie 
 thanks you for coming to see him. He thanks you for the 
 trouble caused by the sun on your head. He thanks you for 
 rain on your head. He thanks you for stones. He thanks you 
 for tall grass giving you era-cm. He thanks you for the 
 miserables undergone in journeying through the swamp. He 
 thanks you for your trouble in procuring chop (food)," and about 
 twenty similar sentences. " He asks about the welfare of Mr. 
 A. Swanzy, and of Mr. Lyall, his agent at Whydah. He holds 
 your stick in your hand. He loves you too much, i.e., very 
 much. He holds you close to his heart. He will keep you from 
 all harm. He loves you as his son. He comes quick to see 
 you," &c. 
 
 The delivery of this imposing speech occupied about half an 
 hour, and between each sentence the messengers and Amoosu 
 touched the earth with their lips. I thanked His Majesty for 
 his good wishes and begged him to lose no time in giving me 
 permission to investigate the natural history of his country
 
 CHAP. V. THE KING'S SrEECH. 117 
 
 Upon this occasion Anioosu was dressed in a brown tunic pro- 
 fusely ornamented with cowries and tufts of blood-besmeared 
 feathers. I at once christened him "Blood and Cowries," a 
 nickname by which he was ever afterwards known. 
 
 Prince Ha-han-su, the heir to the throne, then sent his 
 compliments to me, and said that as soon as his father per- 
 mitted it, he would come and see me. "We then drank the 
 health of the king, and were congratulating ourselves upon 
 having finished, when another messenger arrived with a king's 
 stick, carved in imitation of a clenched fist, with a complimentary 
 message from His Majesty, saying that it was an exceedingly 
 good omen that he and I should arrive at Kana on the same day. 
 I then learned for the first time that the king had arrived at 
 Kana from Abomey on that very day. 
 
 More healths had to be drunk, and at last I succeeded in getting 
 the bamboo door of the yard closed and bolted by a thick stick ; and, 
 completely exhausted by the arduous duties of the day, I turned 
 in to bed and slept soundly in spite of a small army of mantidao 
 which had determined to immolate themselves at the shrine of 
 Moloch in my candle. I heard at intervals the ting-tang of the 
 gong-gong, and subsequently learned that a guard of honour was 
 posted at the principal entrance of my quarters, who were 
 relieved at stated intervals, determined by the time occupied by 
 singing certain songs or walking a prescribed distance.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 RECEPTION AT KANA.. 
 
 History of Kana — Bats — Sandwasps — Visit from the Adonejan and the 
 Buko-nonroh — The eclipse — Luminous centipedes — A tame chameleon — 
 Visit to the old palace — Edible rats — The monkey king — Dahoman rifle 
 contest— Preparation for the reception— The Gbwn-hun-li— Parade of 
 officers - Dahoman dances — Horns— Pantomime of the Ashanti company — 
 Jesters — My song of welcome— Xicknames — Procession to the Palace — 
 The " stone clatter " palace — A palace gate — Grand reception by the 
 nobility — The Ningan — The Men — Eunuchs — Gelel^, King of Dahomey 
 — The Amazonian guards— Salutations — A novel decanter— Return to my 
 quarters. 
 
 Kana, next to Whydah, is the most important town in the 
 kingdom. It appears to be of very ancient date, and to have 
 been a colony of the Oyos or Eyeos, a powerful Yoruba nation. 
 When Daho began his career of conquest at the commence- 
 ment of the seventeenth century, he captured it from the original 
 possessors ; but it repeatedly changed hands, until, in the reign 
 of Tegbwesun, the Eyeos plundered and burnt the place, and 
 imposed a tax upon the Dahomans. 
 
 This tribute was reluctantly paid, until, in the reign of Gezu, that 
 monarch, finding the implacable enemies of his race embroiled in 
 a quarrel with their northern neighbours, the Foulahs and the 
 Iloussas, attacked the Eyeo garrison at Kana, and after defeating 
 them, declared his intention to withhold the payment of the 
 tribute for the future. Since that time Kana has remained in 
 the quiet possession of Dahomey, and is the summer residence of 
 the sovereign, and the rendezvous of the army previous to its 
 starting upon any important expedition. In memory of this 
 signal victory, Gezu instituted the "Kana customs," which take
 
 CHAP. VI. SANDWASP'S NEST. 119 
 
 place before the grand customs at Abomcy. In this pageant the 
 human victims are paraded before the admiring eyes of the 
 rabble, dressed in the garb of their former masters, the Eyeos, 
 and carrj-ing implements of husbandry in their hands as indi- 
 cative of their unfitness to perform the part of warriors, but only 
 that of peaceful husbandmen. 
 
 Three days passed, bringing no permission to go outside the 
 gate ; but I received several complimentary messages from the 
 king and prince. This latter young man behaved in a manner 
 that would put many a white man to shame. He was continually 
 sending me presents of sheep, pigs, and fowls, besides fruit and 
 liqueurs in abundance. 
 
 Every evening the monotony was broken by the passage of the 
 army of bats from Abomey en route to the Aglime swamp. They 
 commenced their journey about half-past five o'clock, and con- 
 tinued to fly over with scarcely any diminution of numbers until 
 it was too dark to distinguish them. They are under the 
 protection of the king, who issued a mandate forbidding their 
 destruction, in consequence of their being slaughtered wholesale 
 by the breechloaders of the whites at "Whydah. 
 
 I used to employ myself by catching a few diptera in a small 
 courtyard adjoining my own quarters, but the space being only 
 seven paces by four, the collection was not very extensive. I 
 succeeded, however, in obtaining a small series of the telescopic- 
 eyed Diopsis and the brilliant Siratiomidce. The sides of the house 
 were bored by several species of Ammopkila, some preferring the 
 innermost walls, while others had a fancy for tho more exposed 
 sites. The entrance was a circular hole about a quarter of an 
 inch in diameter, and the passage led in an upward sloping 
 direction, about four inches into the substance of the swish. 
 The sides of the passage were as smooth as if the hole had been 
 drilled and polished, and the insect completely filled it with its 
 body. The wonderful adaptation of means to an end by 
 Omniscient Nature, was beautifully exemplified by these insects. 
 Had they stiff expanded wings, like some other members of the
 
 120 RECEPTION AT KANA. chap. vi. 
 
 Hymcnopterous group, they would be speedily broken, if not 
 completely destroyed, by friction against the sides of the passage. 
 These disastrous eJEFects, however, are entirely prevented by the 
 peculiar structure of the wings, which fold longitudinally, so that 
 they lie close to the sides of the insect and oppose no resistance 
 to ingress or egress. 
 
 These sand wasps appear to be somewhat long-sighted, for I 
 was accustomed to watch a female who was constructing a nest 
 above my bed's head. As the place was somewhat dark to any 
 one coming in from the glare of the sunshine, the wasp appeared 
 to be slightly confused by the gloom, and generally alighted for a 
 few seconds on my table. From thence, after a short rest, she 
 made a straight course for her nest, but occasionally missed her 
 aim and would wander about the wall in an undecided desultory 
 manner, running up and do"v\Ti the wall, and applying her antenna) 
 to any nests she might encounter in her course. She appeared 
 to lose all idea of the locality of her own nest, and would at 
 length fly to the table and take a fresh departure. The nest once 
 found, she entered and in a few seconds emerged, tail foremost, 
 with a lump of swish as large as a mustard seed in her jaws. 
 Clinging to the perpendicular sides of the wall by her feet, she 
 would drop the morsel between the wall and her body, and again 
 enter to bring out a similar load. Although there were several 
 compartments in each nest, none of them were sufficiently large 
 to permit the insect to turn when inside, hence the sand wasp 
 always made its exit backwards. 
 
 On the 10th of August old " Blood- and-Cowries" came rushing 
 into my room in a state of extreme excitement, saying that the 
 Adonejan or Adonijah, as the Methodist Beecham called him, 
 was coming to meet me. A deafening noise of gong-gongs, 
 horns, and other instruments of music, proclaimed the arrival of 
 some great man. Dahoman etiquette permits, nay, indeed neces- 
 sitates, the detention of any guest before seeing him, as any 
 undue haste is highly indecorous. In a few minutes the bamboo 
 door was thrown open to the horror of the lily-Hvered Beecham,
 
 CHAP. VI. VISIT FROM THE ADONEJAX. 121 
 
 who dreaded tlie consequences of any neglect of respect to the 
 great dignitary. This functionary, as the " English landlord for 
 the outside/' is the subordinate to the Men, not the Mingan as 
 Burton erroneously states, as that person has no dealings what- 
 ever with white men, being a war officer par excellence. His 
 other duties are to assist the Mingan in the command of 
 the right division of the army ; to provide for the accommo- 
 dation of all white visitors to the court ; to act as Palatial 
 engineer, and finally, to take charge of a certain class of prisoners. 
 He was a huge, burly, bullet-headed, jolly-looking old fellow, 
 standing over six feet — a perfect Daniel Lambert in ebony, A 
 quiet vein of humour is infused through all his actions ; even 
 when performing a dirt bath before the king, he seems to do it 
 as a joke more than the stern reality the degrading ceremony 
 really is. He was dressed in a blue and white chequered cotton 
 cloth, several silver armlets, and a necklace from which depended 
 a padlock and key of the same metal, all of native manufac- 
 ture. 
 
 He was accompanied by the Buko-nonroh, the court phy- 
 sician, and the contrast of this worthy with the fat Adonejan 
 was ludicrous in the extreme. Tall as the latter was, his 
 bulk detracted from his height, but the doctor, who was not 
 so tall by four inches, appeared to tower aloft when he stood 
 up, for he was as thin as a lath, with scarcely a vestige of flesh 
 to fill out his shrivelled skin, while his long double- jointed arms 
 reminded me of those of an ourang-outang. Like all of his 
 craft, his head was close-shaven, and a necklace of leopard's fur 
 denoted the office of professor of medicine. These doctors must 
 not be confounded with the fetiche people, for they solely attend 
 to the cure of the body, leaving that of the soul to the " No " 
 or priests. The doctor was arrayed in modest white cotton, and 
 carried a huge houlctte, ornamented by spirals of iron wire and 
 tin tacks. Although Burton assigns the part of a spy to this 
 official, I never found anything of a prying nature going on 
 during his visit ; and indeed when any presents for the king are
 
 122 RECEPTION AT KAXA. chap. vi. 
 
 expected, it is the Benazon who inspects and reports upon them 
 before their delivery to the king. 
 
 These two officers of State were liighly delighted with my 
 compass, aneroid, and other instruments, the applications of which 
 they at once understood, on their working being explained. I 
 have always found among the nobles of Dahomey a ready apti- 
 tude to receive instruction, and a thorough understanding of 
 matters that would be deemed far beyond the grasp of their 
 minds. For example, I told the king that on a certain date the 
 sun would be eclipsed by the moon. He requested me to draw a 
 diagram of the occurrence ; and, upon my making a rough plan 
 of the phenomenon on the sand of the palace yard, he said, 
 " Since the moon turns round the earth and comes between the 
 earth and sun once in every month, how is it that we do not 
 have an eclipse every month ? " I had then to inform him that 
 the plane of the moon's orbit was not identical with that of the 
 earth, and that in consequence the moon did not always come in 
 a direct Hne between us and the sun. The mere fact of the 
 monarch asking such a question proves that he, at least, is 
 capable of receiving a first-class education, and the longer our 
 intimacy continued the more numerous were the proofs of the 
 high order of intelligence possessed by this potentate. 
 
 After a stay of about an hour, I conducted my visitors to the 
 gate, where I found a large body of the Adonejan's people 
 assembled. At a sign from their master they gave me a Wtilleh 
 three times, and the Adoncjan, mounting a small Yoruba horse, 
 upon which he was held by two men, started for his domicile 
 amidst the deafening clamour of several bands. In the evening 
 I had a present of "chop" from both my visitors, with a 
 message, saying that they begged they might have the favour of 
 my company when I had been received by the king. 
 
 On strolling about the premises after dark I was surprised to ob- 
 serve a number of luminous objects crawling about a dead vulture. 
 A closer inspection discovered them to be centipedes, and the light 
 apparently proceeded from the lower portion of their bodies.
 
 CHAP. VI. MY TAME CHAMELEON. 123 
 
 especially near the last six pairs of legs. The light was of a 
 pale bluish- green colour, and was so strong in some individuals 
 as to enable me to read small type when held close to the page 
 by a pair of forceps. 
 
 In the morning I had a fine chameleon brought me alive. 
 This saurian was usually of a pale green, irrorated with black, 
 but varied from a uniform grass-green to a deep chrome, while 
 the black spots assumed every possible size. Sometimes the 
 animal would appear clothed in green and black check, which 
 would gradually change into a pale green with a zigzag black 
 line down the back, the sides being freclded in sepia, and 
 the belly having a colour like cartridge paper. These changes 
 were ail assumed within a few minutes; and sometimes when 
 alarmed the creature would give two or three snorts and 
 go into mourning, not a vestige of the green being visible. 
 These markings were varied at will, and sometimes the whole 
 series would be visible at one time, the right side being 
 black while the left was green. Its small brilliant eyes, one 
 sometimes directed ahead, and the other along its back, gave 
 a ludicrous appearance to the animal ; but when placed on a 
 large branch, it was wonderful to see how closely the varied 
 colours of the skin approximated to the changing lights and 
 shadows of the leaves and twigs. This chameleon was ten inches 
 and a half in length, and I have frequently seen him take a fly 
 when eighteen inches distant from it. I had it alive for several 
 weeks, until it began to recognise me, and would permit me to 
 handle it without betrapng any alarm. It fell a victim to Dahoman 
 superstition in the end ; for a mortality set in amongst some birds 
 I had taken alive in traps, and the poor chameleon, being accused 
 of bewitching them by looking at them with one eye, was burnt 
 alive in my absence. Rcquiescat in jiacc. * 
 
 I was in the habit of taking a walk for about an hour before 
 sundown, as Dahoman etiquette did not permit mo to go out 
 until I had been presented to the king. I was always accom- 
 panied by two or three dozen guards, who effectually prevented
 
 124 EECEPTION AT KAXA. chap. vi. 
 
 my making any collection of insects. Our walks generally led 
 us to an old palace, the erection of wliicli is ascribed to several 
 kings. This was about two miles S.W. of the town, and con- 
 sisted, as far as an outside view permitted us to judge, of a 
 tall swish wall, repaired here and there by bamboo, and enclosing 
 an area of about a square mile. The gates were in better order ; 
 the thatch over the shed on either side being kept in good con- 
 dition, and the square before the gate swept clean by a number 
 of men appointed for the purpose. The wall surrounded a number 
 of coui'tyards and barn-like sheds, within one of which was the 
 grave of Tegbwcsun, although the bones of that monarch have been 
 removed to the Dahomey palace. Near this palace is a grove 
 of fig trees, beneath which I was accustomed to take a number 
 of large Satyridae which never took wing except for about an 
 hour before sundown. In some of the plantations a large bird 
 like a partridge abounded, and furnished me with many a dainty 
 meal. While on the subject of food I may mention that a kind 
 of rodent, not unlike a large rat, is found near Kana. One of 
 the hammockmen caught one in a fall trap, and brought it to 
 me. As, however, I could not overcome a slight prejudice 
 against the creature while I had other food, I made him a present 
 of his game. My refusal exidently deHghted him, and in a short 
 time he brought the animal for my inspection, neatly skinned, 
 and stretched on cross sticks, and kippered in the smoke of an 
 acacia fire. I subsequently tasted the animal at Aboraey, and can 
 vouch for its being a dainty addition to an African bill of fare. 
 
 My own course during the day may be interesting to intending 
 visitors : fowls — boiled, stewed, or roasted ; and wild pig or goat's 
 flesh formed the main dish of every meal, varied, as occasion 
 offered, by a duck, pigeon, monkey, parrot, or partridge. The 
 vegetables were represented by yams, beans or maize, boiled 
 whole or ground and made into a pudding like the fafu of the 
 Gold Coast ; while for dessert I had an abundant su])ply of eggs, 
 oranges, limes, guavas, cocoa nuts, pine apples, and papaws, to 
 say nothing of melons, onions, and ground nuts.
 
 f'liAP. VT. THE MONKEY KING. 125 
 
 There are several fine specimens of the monkey-hread tree 
 growing round the square opposite the principal gate of the old 
 Kana palace. The fruit is somewhat cuneiform in shape, and 
 very hard. Old Blood-and-Cowries told me the following yarn 
 respecting it. " Once upon a time a certain ambitious monkey 
 aspired to the Simiad throne. A meeting of aged monkeys 
 was, therefore, convened, and the process of election determined 
 upon. Every monkey of the same tribe as the aspirant provided 
 himself with one of the hard fruits of this tree. On the day of 
 election the candidate was tied to a tree trunk, and the subjects 
 over whom he aspired to rule passed by one at a time, each 
 giving the king-presumptive a smart knock on the head with the 
 fruit. The first monkey succumbed to such severe head-icork ; 
 and, although several other monkeys have fi^om time to time 
 become candidates for office, they have invariably paid for their 
 presumption with their lives, as none had sufficient brain to 
 withstand the long series of blows inflicted by each individual of 
 his tribe. I think, however, if one of the aborigines of Australia 
 were to enter into the candidature he would come off victorious ; 
 for I have seen them playing a game of hard heads with knobbed 
 sticks, and receiving with perfect indifference blows that would 
 smash any civilised skull. 
 
 In one of my walks I was in advance of my escort, and inad- 
 vertently turned down a wide road, the sides of which were 
 covered with undergrowth, and promised a rich insect harvest. 
 Beecham commenced yelling out and came waddling along, blue 
 or pale green with terror. I asked what was the matter, and 
 my valiant interpreter told me with chattering accents that the 
 road was sacred to the Amazons, for it led to the Hanan, or 
 king's well. Amoosu and the hammockmcn stood aloof, voci- 
 ferating at the top of their voices, and when I came out of the 
 dreaded path, commenced a copious sand bath, although there 
 was not a soul in sight. I afterwards received permission to see 
 this sacred spot, and discovered nothing but a small spring ; the 
 water in which was milk-white with the cla}' held in suspension.
 
 126 RECEPTION AT KAN A. CHAP. vi. 
 
 There are several roads leading to this fountain, and there is 
 no notice-board or other token by which the stranger may be 
 warned off the sacred paths. I have no doubt that severe 
 punishment would be inflicted upon the wilful trespasser, but 
 my experience of Dahoman justice leads me to think that the 
 unconscious offender would get off with a small fine. 
 
 One evening the king sent me by the Adoncjan a large silk 
 handkerchief, with a coloured print of the " Derby " impressed 
 upon it. He requested an explanation of so marvellous a scene, 
 for in Dahomey no person ever dreams of going faster than a walk 
 when on horseback, and the rider is always held on by one or 
 two attendants. 
 
 On the 20th I heard a terrific din of gong-gongs, guns, horns, 
 drums, &c., and on enquiring the reason of such a display, I was 
 told that the soldiers had returned from a war (read man-catching 
 expedition) against one of the small towns on the northern 
 frontier. They were going to exhibit their skill as marksmen, 
 the target being a live bullock, which, when killed, became 
 the property of the company to whose bullets it succumbed. I 
 saw this Dahoman rifle match several times afterwards, and could 
 not congratulate them upon their skill as marksmen, for their 
 bullets were generally wide of the living target. Nevertheless 
 I doubt not they can plant their shot sufliciently near the bullock 
 to give a very uncomfortable feeling before the bullet comes 
 which gives it its quietus. Sometimes the poor creature will be 
 hit a dozen times before death releases it from its sufferings. 
 
 On the 26th I received a message from the king informing me 
 that on the morrow he would give me a reception, but that I 
 must excuse the paucity of the soldiers, as they were not yet all 
 assembled for the annual custom. Eeecham and Amoosu were 
 all bustle and worry, cleaning up the yard, making a reception 
 tent of mats, and furbishing up their finery. 
 
 As for myself, I was not in any humour to receive a state 
 visit, for I had been bitten on the eyelid by an ant a few days 
 before, and could scarcely open the afflicted eye. However, glad
 
 (HAP. VI. THE GBWN-llUN-LI. 127 
 
 to escape the durance vile to which etiquette had condemned me, 
 I prepared to do honours to His Majesty, and submit to the 
 inflictions entailed by a reception. 
 
 Burton, in his account, erroneously says that the " state 
 imprisonment with which visitors are honoured at Agbome is not 
 the rule here." Much as I may admire that writer, I cannot 
 but here say that in Dahomey he fell into many errors, one of 
 which is the statement above ; for on no occasion, and in no town, 
 is the visitor to the king permitted to go at large during the 
 interval elapsing between his arrival and reception by the king. 
 Burton has made very caustic criticisms on Duncan, Forbes, and 
 other writers, and it is but fair that he himself should be tried in 
 the same furnace as they were. 
 
 However, my imprisonment was soon to end, and on the 
 morning of August 27th I prepared for the ceremony. Escort 
 and hammockmen were dressed in their Sunday go-ashore suits, 
 and an extra quantity of grease was rubbed upon the sable skins 
 of everybody who could scrape together a sufficient quantity of any 
 unctuous matter for the purpose. About nine o'clock a messenger 
 came from Prince Hahansu, saying that I was not to hurry 
 myself, as there was plenty of time. Former experience had 
 taught me the lesson that nothing delights a savage so much as 
 to keep a white man waiting his pleasure, exposed as a show to 
 the criticizing gaze and remarks of the vulgar crowd, so I deter- 
 mined to profit by the advice of my friend the Prince ; and 
 notwithstanding the impatience of Beecham, to abide my own 
 time for going out. 
 
 In about an hour I got into my hammock, which had been 
 uewly decorated for the occasion, and started for the Gbicn-hun-li 
 ("Road by the cotton-tree in the bush"), where the ceremony was 
 to commence. A band and firing party, which had been sent by 
 the Prince, preceded my hammock, my escort bringing up the 
 rear. Immediately in front of the hammock was Ghu-ga-lah 
 bearing the king's stick, and Bukau with my oAvn emblem. 
 After a ride of three hundred yards we arrived at the Gbicn-hun-li,
 
 128 
 
 RECEPTION AT KAXA. 
 
 a clear space to the left of the road, with two huge cotton-trees 
 in the centre. Beneath the shade of these trees our chairs were 
 placed, facing the road to the palace, and we took our seats 
 amidst the outspoken criticisms of some three or four hundred 
 people, who were already assembled to witness the reception of 
 the king's white man. 
 
 THE BKCEPTIOX AT KANA. 
 
 After a few minutes' delay we heard a band approaching, and 
 soon beheld it coming round a curve in the road, followed by a 
 huge Kwe-ho or tent umbrella, which was twirled round and 
 waved about by the bearer as if it were a mere parasol instead 
 of a canopy with sufficient spread to shelter half a dozen people. 
 In front of this walked, or rather danced, the Kpwa Kpwa, who 
 may be called arbiter elegantiarum, the master of the ceremonies. 
 He was the assistant or lieutenant of the Kan-gbo-deh, eunuch 
 chief of the king's body-guard, of whom more anon. This 
 gentleman was dressed in a sleeveless tunic of variously-coloured 
 cloth, girt round the waist with a striped belt, beneath which
 
 CHAP. VI. DAXCE OF THE KPWA-KPWA. 129 
 
 the cJiohoto or drawers appeared, both garments being tastefully 
 embroidered with coloured cotton. Around his neck were several 
 massive necklaces formed of different kinds of beads, a beautiful 
 and valuable pink coral necklace, as thick as a man's finger, 
 being conspicuous. This is only worn by the highest dignitaries. 
 Over all the necklaces he wore, suspended fi'om a silver chain, a 
 rude bell, the emblem of his office as a " king's wife," as the 
 eunuchs are called. His arms were covered with brass gauntlets, 
 rudely embossed in various patterns, while eight or ten massive 
 bracelets of iron or tin decorated each arm from the wrist to 
 above the elbow. He carried the usual Mn-kpo or knobbed stick, 
 and advancing, began a bravery dance, in which he was joined by 
 his troop. This dance is a most violent gymnastic exercise, and 
 a few minutes at it makes the operator reek at every pore. 
 
 It consists of two parts, the one an imitation of the overthrow 
 of an enemy, and the other a mimic of his decapitation. In 
 the first figure the performer goes through a series of wild leaps, 
 occasionally whirling round on tiptoe, and bringing the foot to 
 the ground with a truly nigger breakdown flop. The weapon, 
 whether gun, sword, or Ma-kpo, is occasionally held at arm's 
 length in a vertical position and then struck on the ground, while 
 the posteriors are "\dolently wriggled from front to rear, and the 
 elbows flung back until they meet behind the back of the dancer. 
 The face of the operator betrays intense excitement, the eyes 
 bolting out of the head, while a few breathless ejaculations 
 testify to the excitement of the performance. The second part 
 begins in a side movement, the left hand being held edge upwards 
 in front of the body, while the stick is clutched in the right, and 
 makes a series of short cuts at the left, which represents the head 
 of the victim. 
 
 This violent exercise over, the Kpwa-Kpwa made a charity- 
 school bow and snapped fingers, after which he drank the health 
 of the king and myself in an imaginary glass of grog. 
 
 Next followed the umbrella of the Bosu Sau, a half-brother to 
 the king. He was a tall, grim-visaged fellow, dressed in a similar 
 
 K
 
 130 EECEPTIOX AT KAXA. chap, vr. 
 
 style to his predecessor, but figured in silver gauntlets and 
 bracelets instead of the brass ones of the Kpwa-Kpwa. He was 
 accompanied by an escort of about thirty musketeers, dressed in 
 various-coloured tunics, but all having white cross-belts and a kind 
 of white glengarry, with a blue trefoil on the side. They marched 
 three times round the square, and at the end of the third round 
 halted before me. The Bosu Sau then danced and presented 
 arms to me and retired to the left, when his musketeers advanced, 
 and, amidst frantic dances, fired off a salute. A number of 
 slaves belonging to the Kpwa-Kpwa now appeared, who carried 
 an ordinary deal table and two immense calabash-covered baskets. 
 The table was placed in front of me, and one basket opened, 
 revealing two or three bright-coloured cotton cloths, one of which 
 was spread on the table. From the other calabash several bottles 
 of various liqueurs were produced, together with a decanter of 
 water, a pipe, and tobacco. These were arranged on the table, 
 and the whole covered by the remaining cloths. The Kpwa- 
 Kpwa and the Bosu Sau then advanced, and I rose to receive my 
 distinguished \'isitors. After being personally introduced, I was 
 presented with a glass of water " in the king's name " to " cool 
 my heart," and the Bosu Sau delivered a message, which was 
 an enlarged repetition of that I received on my arrival at Kana. 
 I then drank the health of the king three times, a small field 
 piece loaded to bursting being fired every time I raised the glass 
 to my lips. After this ceremony the two chiefs retired, and took 
 up their positions to the left, the officers seating themselves on 
 small Gold Coast stools, while their followers ranged themselves 
 behind them. 
 
 At a signal from the Kpwa-Kpwa a band in the distance 
 struck up, and a company appeared, being the escort of the So-gan, 
 or captain of the horse. He was dressed very splendidly in 
 embroidered tunic and drawers, while in his gorgeously-coloured 
 sash were stuck several silver-mounted daggers, and a powder- 
 flask, shot-belt, and medicine bag, all of gaily- coloured leather 
 work, hung from the left side. On his head he wore two silver
 
 CHAP. VI. HORNS OF OFFICE. 131 
 
 horns, sliaped like mushrooms, or rather like the tin save- alls 
 used to keep candles firm in their sockets. These were fixed to 
 the head by thin fillets of bright-coloured silk, the ends of which 
 hung down his back. These horns are only worn by the chief 
 officers, and are of several shapes. One, that worn by the second 
 grade, is shaped like an antelope's horns, with a kind of pattern 
 punctured on the sides. The other is the one mentioned above. 
 These are of various lengths, the longest being emblematic of the 
 highest rank. Does not this throw light on the phrase, — " His 
 horn shall be exalted ?" 
 
 The So-gan was riding side-saddle on a little brown nag, 
 whose back was protected by a splendid saddle-cloth, and his 
 left arm was thrown lovingly round the neck of a slave who 
 walked beside the horse, and thus prevented his master from 
 being unseated. His umbrella was of white cotton, with a blue 
 man's head with goggle eyes and a blue-handled pink sword 
 alternately on each lappet. After the procession had passed 
 three times round us, the So-gan dismounted, or rather was 
 lifted off his horse, and, after saluting us, commenced a dance, 
 and finished off by firing a gun. His company then commenced 
 a calisthenic exercise, and then, retiring to the right, fired off 
 about a keg of powder from their heavily-loaded muskets. 
 
 The So-gan was followed by the Bi-wan-ton {Bi, all; wan, 
 love ; ton, that belongs to ; that is to say, that he loves every- 
 thing belonging to himself or the king), which? This dignitary 
 is the lieutenant of the Men, and one of the finest men I ever 
 saw — tall, muscular, with a fine head and pleasing countenance, 
 he was the beau ideal of a negro commander. His horns were of 
 the save-all type, and he claimed respect as the nephew of the 
 king. 
 
 The Nuage followed the Bi-wan-ton, and sat astride a chestnut 
 mare. His escort wore a kind of cape to their tunics, with a 
 de\TLCC something like a ficur-de-lis in white cotton upon it. 
 
 After the Nuage the " place " of Quinun, a confidential slave, 
 dressed in holiday costume, who bowed and danced, fired and 
 
 K 2
 
 132 EECEPTIOX AT KANA. chap. vi. 
 
 toasted, with all tlic bravado of the highest personage on the 
 field. 
 
 The seventh chieftain was the Wenou, an aged warrior, whose 
 face exhibited an ugly scar received many years ago in a scrim- 
 mage with the Nago people. His umbrella was blue, with a 
 white ornament on the lappets something like a gridiron. 
 
 Next the Wenou was the " place " of Prince Chyudaton, who 
 had not yet arrived from "VVhydah. This young man has a remark- 
 ably intelligent face, and is much lilced by all the whites for his 
 influence with the Avogan, to inducing him to forego a trifle of 
 his rapacity when dealing \vith civilised persons. 
 
 The toxophilite escort of Chyudaton was composed of boys 
 with bows and arrows, the latter being contained in sheaths of 
 tanned goat-sldn, like chart canisters. They knelt down and 
 shot a flight of arrows, the butt end of the bow resting on the 
 ground before them. 
 
 These caboceers all danced and fired a salute before retiring to 
 their stools, where they invariably set up a long pipe and com- 
 menced to criticise my every action. By this time an immense 
 crowd had assembled, and the heat and stench became over- 
 powering. 
 
 Last in the procession of Bonugan or caboceers was the 
 "place" of the Avogan, a tall warrior, whose compass-like legs 
 took in yards at a stride. Unlike the other "places," he was 
 afoot, the haughty Avogan not permitting his saddle-cloth to 
 be polluted by the person of any inferior dignity. 
 
 A selection from the various regiments or companies then 
 paraded three times round the square, the first to arrive being 
 the Add company, who were armed with Dane guns. They 
 were fine sturdy fellows, who were called " bayonetecrs " by 
 Burton, but I never saw anything like a bayonet in the Dahoman 
 army. They \\cre preceded by several somewhat tattered banners, 
 — a Union Jack, minus the red St. Andrew's cross, and one with 
 a double - headed bird displayed, something like the Prussian 
 standard, being conspicuous. The uniform of this comi^any was a 

 
 CHAP. VI. THE ASHANTI T\^\R-DAXCE. 133 
 
 dark blue tunic with a scarlet border, and witb a glengarry of the 
 same cloth as the tunic, ha-vdng the eye of the heraldic royal 
 crow emblazoned on each side. The Tower Gun Company, or 
 the Gan-u-nlan corps, succeeded. Their standard was a blue 
 animal of uncertain species lying prostrate at the feet of a scarlet 
 liunter. This flag was emblematic of their title, which may be 
 translated " Conquerors of all animals." Their uniform was of 
 (lark grey, with an abundance of white cowries sewn on the 
 seams. 
 
 The large flag of the Ashanii company followed, bearing on 
 its white surface the figure of a blue warrior in the act of felling 
 a crimson tree. This corps was picturesquely dressed in kilts 
 of leopard or civet cat's skin, with a fringe of the same round the 
 knees and elbows. Their caps were likewise made of leopard's 
 skin, or a velveteen fabric dyed to imitate the real article. They 
 danced the Ashanti dance, a pantomimic display of the slaughter 
 of an enemy, and concluded by a tableau of the stoic resignation 
 "svith which they were prepared to die in the service of their king. 
 
 Tliis latter part was performed by a single warrior, who, after 
 making a most athletic display, imitated the action of a person 
 who has received a death wound. He clasped his hands to his 
 breast, and with a yell fell prostrate on the earth. He then 
 uttered a few gurgling sighs, and after several convulsive throes 
 his limbs grew rigid and his eyes fixed as if in the last agonies of 
 death. His companions then rubbed sand over his body, and 
 the captain, putting his foot on the breast of the fallen warrior, 
 sang an extemporised ditty, which may be roughly translated 
 
 thus : — 
 
 " Our brother has been slain by our enemies, 
 Shall we not avenge him ? 
 Just as sure as he will return to dust, 
 So will we aveng-e the death of our companion." 
 
 The singer brandished his sword in a "s-iolent manner, and made 
 several frantic stabs with his weapon as though impaling a spectral 
 foe. This pantomime occupied a quarter of an hour, after which.
 
 134 RECEPTION AT KANA. chap. vi. 
 
 the deceased soldier sprang to his feet, and, rushing to us, yelled 
 out, " Nquahshu," an Ashanti password, to which the response 
 is " Who-hau," which was yelled out by his companions. 
 
 The Agharmja, or blunderbuss -men, followed, led on by their 
 chief, a heavy swell in the blue uniform of a French soldier, with 
 immense scarlet epaulettes. The tunic was about four sizes too 
 small for the wearer, and the trowsers had been cut do-oTi to 
 breeches. The weajions of this corps were brass blunderbusses, 
 burnished bright as brass could be, as indeed were all the arms, 
 and all wore the aghaja, or goatskin cartridge belt round their 
 waists. The dandy captain went through his performance with 
 commendable agility, considering the strait-waistcoat nature of 
 his uniform. These warriors, so far from being the flower of the 
 army, as Burton says, appeared to be mere recruits, and Beecham 
 told me that they were all young soldiers, who had seen but little 
 active service. They fired their short pieces from the hip, or, when 
 very heavily loaded, placed the butts on the ground, the recoil 
 sending the sand flying several yards to the rear. 
 
 At this point one of the court klan, or jesters, made his 
 appearance, and, as is customary, made me a present of some 
 cankies and other insignificant articles. These bufibous are part of 
 the royal household, and are privileged to do just as they please 
 in the way of ridicule, frequently interrupting royalty itself with 
 a pun or witty remark. They are distinguished by the meanness 
 of their attire, and by their carrying a huge " possible sack," from 
 the capacious depths of which they produce the paraphernalia of 
 their craft, principally cankies, yams, or other articles of food. They 
 whitewash their arms and shins, and daub their faces with various 
 coloured earths. Their principal jokes arc very poor, — barbarous 
 puns, stale as the hills, or obscene jests, such as would do credit 
 to a Ratclrffe Highway ^'irago. They will squat on the ground 
 and commence making grimaces, as though they wished to sit as 
 models for some of the quaint old water-spouts and corbels one 
 sees in Gothic churches. Unearthly and meaningless noises vary 
 the monotony, at which the ludicrous -imbrued negro will laugh
 
 CHAP. VI. COUET JESTERS. 135 
 
 to splitting ; while any attempt at familiarity with a white man 
 , is greeted with screams of delight. At one time they will pretend 
 to be idiots, and at another to be deaf and dumb ; while they will 
 sit quietly smoking a piece of yam on the end of a- stick, by way 
 of a pipe, to the amusement of the bystanders. Some are experts 
 in twitching the skin in various parts of the body, while others 
 will draw in their bellies, until one would think that they were 
 going to snap asunder, or emulate the aculeate hymenoptera in 
 the slenderness of their waists. Others do the alogiceh, a kind of 
 sommersault ; while at another time they will pretend to vomit, or 
 sit opposite some conspicuous person and imitate his every action. 
 One thing they never forget, and that is, to beg, but if they 
 receive a dash on their first appearance they will be satisfied. 
 I often created a roar of laughter at their expense by turning 
 their jokes upon themselves, such as giving them a glass of water 
 to drink, instead of gin, and other childisli pranks. A favourite 
 occupation is to pretend to catch parasites in their hair, and to 
 write imaginary notes to white ^dsitors on leaves, drying the 
 spectral ink by a dusting of sand. 
 
 The next item in the procession was a company of boys who 
 carried twelve long poles, the summits being crowned by circular 
 wooden discs, on the top of each of which a human skull was 
 fixed by a long nail. Four other poles had the platters ready 
 fixed on the tops, but the final ornaments were very ominously 
 wanting. These were the relics of some petty chieftains, who 
 were slain by King Gezu during one of the many skirmishes 
 with the Nagos. 
 
 A bevy of twelve flags, all bearing some warlike device, 
 preceded the court singers, or Ahanjito. They had silver horns 
 of the conical type, and bore the distinguishing mark of their 
 profession, the chauri, or horsetail, those of the principal vocalists 
 being adorned with a human jawbone, fixed to the handle like 
 the guard of a sword-hilt. These are the bards of the country, 
 to whom is entrusted the history of the past ; for the Dahomans, 
 having no written language, commit every great action to memory
 
 136 EECEPTION AT KAN A. chap. vi. 
 
 tlirough the media of songs. There is a quaint, sad melody in. 
 their monotonous chant, especially when heard on the stillness of , 
 the dead of night, for these troubadours not unfrequently sing a 
 lullaby to the monarch which lasts from sunset to dawn. 
 
 The Hunto, or drummers, followed these poets, and also bore 
 the chauri. These two corps ranged themselves on either hand, 
 and with sundry waves of their horse-tails, commenced a song com- 
 posed for the occasion. Their dresses were of far richer material 
 than the soldier's, and their necklaces were cumbrous, and their 
 y^hole fades denoted high rank. They were not allowed to appear 
 in review with umbrellas, but wore horns and knives in their 
 belts, just as did the warriors themselves. Many bore small bells, 
 and not a few loose .anklets, which created a pleasant jingle as 
 they slowly stepped in time to their not unpleasing chant, which 
 may be translated thus : — 
 
 The white man comes from England. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay ! 
 He has seen many wonderful things there. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay ! 
 He now comes to see his friend Gelele. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay ! 
 And he will be welcome to the king's heart. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay 1 
 The king will show him plenty of fine things. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay ! 
 He is welcome. All the people welcome him. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay ! 
 The king holds him close to his heart. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay ! 
 All people must join us to praise the king's friend. 
 
 Oh Kerserlay 1 
 
 The Kerserlay was intended for my name, being as near an 
 approach to it as they could arrive at. Most people receive a 
 nickname, not always complimentary to the bearer. Thus, Beccliam 
 was Kpon-akra, the hunch-backed vulture, in allusion to his high 
 shoulders and gastronomic powers, while one of the Portuguese is 
 known as the " Devil's mouth-piece."
 
 CHAP. VI. THE STONE-CLATTER PALACE. 137 
 
 After sundry complimentary speeches liad been delivered on 
 both sides, the various companies formed themselves into a proces- 
 sion — the first arrivals taking the lead, and the eunuchs bringing 
 up the rear. I entered my hammock, and, surrounded by my 
 people, followed the procession. No sooner had I started than a 
 dismounted gun on the road-side was fired, and a company of 
 soldiers from the Blue division, who had hitherto remained con- 
 cealed, emerged from the bushes, and, headed by their band, 
 commenced a gymnastic display behind us. At intervals of 
 thirty yards or thereabouts an artilleryman was stationed by a 
 gun, and as we approached he applied the match and fired ofi" his 
 salute. I saw nothing of the swivels mentioned by Burton, for 
 these guns were 7-pounders at least, and firmly embedded in the 
 soil ; so that their removal would be a matter of difficult}^ and 
 their weight a load for four men, instead of the single porter, as 
 mentioned by that traveller. In about an hour, during which 
 the pageant had marched a distance of about a mile, we 
 came in sight of the Banyanemme Palace. This, the first 
 royal edifice in actual use that I had seen in the country, was 
 built by King Gezu, and received its curious name, which 
 means stone-clatter, in the Mahi language, from the following 
 circumstance. 
 
 When Gezu was erecting the outer wall, some Mahi slaves 
 were employed upon it. As their houses are for the most part 
 built of bamboo, they considered s^vish to be of too perishable 
 a nature to withstand the annual rains, and one of them, who 
 appears to have been a kind of overseer, suggested that stones 
 should be mingled with the swish to make it " stronger." As 
 there are no stones in the neighbourhood of Abomey, this 
 remark was considered''to be an insult to the king, who thereupon 
 ordered the overseer to find the stones he mentioned. This being 
 impossible, the unfortunate man was beheaded, and the fetiche 
 people declared that, if necessary, so many stones would come to 
 the palace of their own free will as would raise the dead by their 
 clatter. This was ccmsidercd too important a matter to consign
 
 138 EECErTIOX AT KAXA. chap. vi. 
 
 to oblivion, and the palace was therefore called Banyane7nme — 
 i.e. (the palace) of the stone-clattering. 
 
 It is a fac-simile of the Kana south palace, but in good repair, 
 as befits the abode of a monarch. The roads leading to it are 
 wide and in good order, and in the immediate vicinity of the 
 ^' square " are not cut up into the parallel footpaths as is the case 
 elsewhere. As we approached the first market-place, the din of 
 guns, drums, shouts, and songs became fearful. Groups of fetiche 
 people were drawn up to the left of the road, and as we passed 
 they cheered or prayed for us — I cannot say which. Several 
 posterns in the palace wall were passed, at each of which the 
 guard were drawn up, the officers being seated on stools under 
 their umbrellas, while their staff squatted^around them, with their 
 guns resting butt downwards on the ground, and the muzzles 
 sloping forwards. These worthies did not move a muscle as we 
 paraded before them, although Beecham was spooning the air 
 with his hat, held in both hands, by way of obeisance. 
 
 We passed on through the Adogwin, the western market-place, 
 and in a few minutes came opposite a new gate that had lately 
 been made in the enceinte. It is customary for each monarch to 
 have a gate in each palace specially appropriated to himself, and 
 Gelele, following the custom of his ancestors, had caused the 
 present gate to be made in the Banyanemme palace. It differed 
 in no way from any other gate, being merely a gap in the wall 
 closed by rude wooden doors which were covered with fetiche 
 charms — feathers, cowries — thunder-shrub — blood and similar 
 humbug. 
 
 Before the gate a long shed had been erected, the breadth 
 being about twenty feet and the height about sixty. Although 
 so high, the roof of thatch descended to ' about six feet of the 
 ground, the eaves being supported by a row of posts about ten 
 feet apart, and which, on this auspicious occasion, were swathed 
 in crimson cloth. On cither side of the gateway beneath the shed 
 were earthen benches — like Midland county settles, upon which 
 the monarch reclines on mats while his court squat on the raised
 
 CHAP. VI. THE PALACE-GATE LEVEE. 139 
 
 floor around liim. In front and on either side of the entrance 
 two Egbada or fetiche trees are always planted. These are 
 usually about five feet high, pollarded, and in the fork of their 
 branches a fetiche pot is placed, which generally contains a mass 
 of holy filth. Around these trees is a kind of rude altar — a 
 bundle of Bo-soh or fetiche sticks, about as thick as a broom- 
 handle, and painted in alternate bands of red and white. These 
 are stuck in the ground in a bundle, and are usually surmounted 
 by a fetiche calabash. In front of these truncheons is a little 
 mound of earth, which is the receptacle of the decapitated heads 
 during the Custom ; and in front of all is a second pair of pollard 
 trees twelve feet high, supporting a cross pole, from the centre of 
 which usually hangs a sacred mat, and other fetiche contrivances 
 for securing the privacy of the royal abode. 
 
 "Within these gateways a guard is stationed day and night, and 
 they are the usual positions of the king during the receptions, 
 state trials, and other ceremonies of the Annual Customs. 
 
 The open space before the gate presented a spectacle truly 
 grand. 
 
 The whole of the available force of the kingdom had been 
 assembled, dressed in their most gorgeous uniforms, and were 
 seated in regular order, forming a boundary to the square on all 
 sides. "We entered this parade-ground at the north-east corner, 
 and the various regiments who had preceded us from the Gbwu- 
 hun-li marched to the centre of the square, where they arranged 
 themselves in a picturesque group beneath the shade of two 
 immense cotton trees. Our immediate company commenced a trinal 
 march round the square, the various chieftains making a charity- 
 school bow as we passed. After the third round we alighted, 
 and chairs being brought we took our seats in front of the gate- 
 way, under the shade of an immense white umbrella which had 
 been set up for our accommodation near the centre of the square. 
 
 "While thus seated, the " cynosure of neighbouring eyes," I 
 will endeavour to give the reader an idea of the appearance 
 of the scene.
 
 140 RECEPTION AT KAXA. chap. vi. 
 
 The bam- like gateway was filled to sufibcation with Amazons, 
 who, dressed in blue sleeveless tunics, with white crossbelts and 
 black cartridge-boxes, had a ver}^ soldier-like appearance, while 
 the gleam of the mid-day sun upon their brightly poUshed guns 
 was dazzling in the extreme. To the right of these soldieresses, 
 under a splendid tent-umbrella of crimson cloth, gaily decorated 
 with gold and white animals of a somewhat nondescrij)t genus, 
 sat the Ningan or Min-gan — the premier of Dahomey and 
 captain, or rather field-marshal, of the Right Division of the 
 army. This high dignitary is a war-man par excellence, and in 
 the Chapter on the Dahoman Ai'my his ofiicc will be described 
 at some length. He is a tall, roimd-faced, middle-aged man, 
 with a small head, which he wears shorn save a single scalp-lock ; 
 and is so much filled with his dignity that until I was created 
 a peer of the realm he never condescended to speak to me. He 
 was dressed in a gorgeously coloured tunic, with quite a heavy 
 load of necklaces, armlets, gauntlets, and other finery. 
 
 On the left, occupying a similar position to the Ningan, was 
 the Meu — the minister of the Left Division. He was a short 
 bullet-headed man, with a face like a chimpanzee's, and showed 
 the huge cheek bones with such distinctness that they appeared 
 to be coming through the skin. His eyes were deep sunken, and 
 altogether the Meu was not by any means a person to fall in love 
 with at first sight. 
 
 Ranged on either side of these two dignitaries were their 
 assistants, the Gaou, the Kposu, the Sosoton, the Binwanton, and 
 several others, all splendidly arrayed in full uniform. After a 
 short interval the Tononun, or chief eunuch for the late king, 
 made his appearance. This officer, a white-haired, decrepid old 
 man, presides over the xVmazonian portion of the i)alace, just as 
 the Adonejan has authority over the men who are employed in 
 building and repairing the palace walls and sheds. He is of 
 high rank, but has no jurisdiction beyond the palace, within 
 which his pecuHar neutrality enables him to enter at all times. 
 He was dressed in the silver horns and gauntlets of a cabinet
 
 CHAP. VI. PEESENTATIOX TO THE KING. I'T 
 
 minister, and carried a large silver bell liung round his neck. 
 Behind him came a number of his myrmidons, all wearing bells, and 
 most of them having their heads shaved on the right side only, 
 or leaving a round patch on the middle of the pate. They are 
 known as the Lali or " half-heads." These eunuchs carried a 
 table similar to the one we saw at the Gbwnhunli, and bavins: 
 set it up, a couple of electro cruets, ten decanters of rum, a large 
 calabash of water and several tumblers were set out upon it, and 
 the whole covered with a gaudy cloth. The Tononun and his assist- 
 ants then brought a bundle of bamboo poles, and \vith them 
 formed a barrier between the Amazons and the men, leading up 
 to but not surrounding the table. 
 
 A firing of muskets -v^ithin the palace and a troop of Amazons 
 defiHng through the open gate announced the approach of royalty ; 
 and in a few minutes Gelele appeared, surrounded by his body- 
 guard of female warriors, and marched up to the table. 
 
 My introduction to the far-famed King of Dahomey was dis- 
 appointing. I had exjDected to have seen a half-naked savage, 
 with a grim blood-thirsty mien. Instead of this sanguinary 
 monster, I beheld a tall, athletic, broad-shouldered person, 
 several shades lighter in colour than his people, with a truly 
 kingly dignity about him by which alone he could be recognised 
 as the ruler of the country. His features were not by any means 
 of the repulsive full-blooded negro type. His nose had a very 
 appreciable bridge, and, though certainly incHned to the reirotisse, 
 it had none of the spread-out appearance predominating among 
 the West Africans, which always appear to me to have a look as 
 though they had been put on hot and had commenced to run over 
 the face. His eyes were bloodshot and half-concealed by cataract, 
 while his mouth, of moderate proportions, revealed even but' 
 tobacco-stamcd teeth between the half- opened Hps, He was 
 slightly bald, and wore his head shaved with the exception of two 
 small thimblefuls of wool on the left side, which were decorated 
 with small strings of beads, and, like his incipient beard and 
 moustache, were somewhat grizzly. His expression was
 
 ]'.43 RECEPTION AT IvANA. chap. vi. 
 
 pleasing, and a smile of welcome gave an agreeable cliarm to 
 his features, and somewhat counteracted the small-pox marks 
 which thickly covered his face. He was decorated with the 
 usual Dahoman national tattoo, three short perpendicular and 
 parallel cuts on the temple. His age might be about forty-five 
 or fifty ; but unlil^e his inferior contemporaries he was in the 
 ' full vigour of manhood, while, in many instances, they were 
 rapidly hastening to their decline. He wore his nails long, after 
 the fashion of a Chinese noble, and smoked a long- stemmed 
 silver-bowled pipe. 
 
 He was dressed in a blue and white striped silk toga, with 
 drawers of violet and orange striped damask. His feet were 
 encased in Arabic sandals beautifully embroidered in various 
 colours, and which he alone in the kingdom has the pri\'ilege of 
 wearing. As he afterwards told me, his ranlc is quite sufficient 
 for him without the accessories of finery, and he never appears 
 decorated with the profusion of jewellery afiected by the nobility. 
 Upon this occasion he wore a string of black and white beads 
 round his neck, with a square leather bag attached containing 
 some magical substance. 
 
 His arms were decorated with four ordinary iron rings, each 
 about half an inch in thickness, and a plain silver ring encircled 
 the middle finger of his left hand. 
 
 On his head a gaily coloured pork-pie hat protected him 
 from sunstroke, and all other e\'ils were eficctually guarded 
 against by a human tooth strung on a piece of cord tied round 
 the head. 
 
 He was attended by a buxom damsel dressed in dark purple 
 chintz, who held a violet and amber coloured parasol above 
 him, while a second Amazon struggled under the weight of an 
 enormous umbrella of scarlet velvet, having black birds with 
 emerald-green breasts, and yellow hearts upon each alternate 
 lappet. Besides these there were the royal spittoon-bearer, 
 with a silver chaHce containing a little sand which was held 
 out for the royal expectoration ; " grooms," who, armed with 
 
 I
 
 CHAP. VI. DAHOMAN SALUTATIONS. 143 
 
 baudanas, removed the slightest trace of perspiration from the 
 royal brow, and several others, whose every thought appeared 
 to be absorbed in attendance upon the Great King. 
 
 No sooner did he make his appearance than the music 
 ceased, and all the nobles and soldiers saluted the monarch by 
 copious shovellings of sand, which was thrown over the whole 
 body by the lower orders, while the higher dignitaries contented 
 themselves with bestowing a little on their heads and naked 
 arms. This is the "worshipping" of Scripture, and a universal 
 practice throughout Africa when in the presence. As Burton 
 remarks, there is no intermediate rank between the king and 
 the servile. Even the Crown Prince as copiously besmears 
 himself as any other person, all being infinitely below the King 
 in position. So, also, the nobles have the "worshipping" per- 
 formed to them by the rabble when out of court. 
 * The general salutation consists of a prostration before the 
 monarch with the forehead touching the sand, and afterwards- 
 rubbing the cheeks on the earth, leaving a red patch of sand on 
 either side. Rising to the kneeling posture, the hands are then 
 clapped in a scries of three clappings in a diminuendo style, and 
 if a number are saluting at once, they all keep time. A peculiar 
 filHp of the little fingers is then given thrice, and thus ends the 
 " itte d-ai." Then follows the dirt bath, or ko-dide, a series of 
 shovelling of the earth over the head, making as much display as 
 possible of the smallest amount of sand. ^Vhen receiving or 
 asking any particular favour, the saluter completely smothers 
 himself with the red earth ; rubbing it well into the arms and 
 neck until it sticks to the perspiring skin like dough. 
 
 Gelele came up to the bamboo line, whither I proceeded to 
 meet him, and shook hands in the European fashion -without the 
 national filliping of the middle finger. The Tononun then 
 removed the cloth from the table. Meanwhile the Meu came 
 forwards and took up his position to our left. This minister is 
 supposed to take charge of all whites who \4sit the king, and to 
 interpret between them and royalty. I then saw that Beecham
 
 144 EECEPTIOX AT KAXA. CHAP. vi. 
 
 was trembling with fear in the presence of the great king, and, 
 from the hesitating way in which he interpreted my words, I 
 could not hut think that he was calculating whether they were 
 agreeable to the royal ear. I afterwards found him at the trick 
 of altering my words to his own ideas, if he thought they might 
 offend the king, and he was always telhng mc that if he gave the 
 king a bad palaver he would be punished. We first drank 
 water with the Idng ; His Majesty merely lifting the glass to his 
 face and then pouring it on the ground. He then poured out a 
 tumbler of muscatel, and we prepared to pledge our mutual 
 healths. He bowed, touched glasses, and whilst I drained off the 
 liquor, the king turned his back upon mc, and the Amazons 
 raised a thick coloured cloth as a screen between us, while others 
 called out some of the royal titles, or " Strong names," as they are 
 called. This was the signal for the outburst of the pent-up noise 
 of the multitude. Guns were fired, praises of the king shouted 
 cut, bells were rung, and the jesters shrieked out as they rushed 
 tumultuously afar ; but every one studiously kept their faces 
 turned from the king. The toast over, the Amazons removed 
 the cloth and called out " daybreak," — as much as to say that 
 now the lion has feasted, people may look at him ; since it is a 
 common superstition that a person is more subject to the ill- 
 effects of malevolent wishes while he is drinking than at any 
 other time. Whenever the king drank in public this same 
 tableau was always performed, since no person is allowed to see 
 so dreadful a sight. 
 
 I then drank the healths of our most gracious Queen ; jMr. 
 Swanzy, and several other minor toasts. Luckily, etiquette only 
 required me to touch the glass with my lips, after which I handed 
 it to Amoosu, who literally poured it down the throat of the 
 nearest bystander. Twenty-four guns were then fired for the 
 king and twelve for myself. The king then said that I had 
 come with empty hands, but I should return with them full. 
 He thanked me for patiently waiting until he could receive me, 
 and made sundry other speeches of a complimentary nature.
 
 CHAP. Yi. THE COURT "DRUXKARD." 145 
 
 I was tlion iutroduced to tlio principal officers seriatim, each 
 receiving a glass of rum or liqueur on bended knees. This 
 tedious process occupied about an hour. The king's " drunkard^' 
 ■was then brought forward, and Gelela took up the vinegar cruet, 
 Avhich, like all the others, was full of rum. The Bacchanal 
 kneeled down aiid opened a mouth like that of a hippopotamus 
 on a small scale, and the king emptied the contents of the 
 cruet do^vn its cavernous depths, and proceeded with the 
 remaining cruets. This was all very well with the vinegar 
 bottles-, but the mustard pot was almost a clencher, as the lid 
 would get in the man's mouth and almost choke him. The 
 pepper castor, too, was rather awkward, as the perforated top 
 caused the grog to distil in a spiritual rain. I suggested the 
 removal of the top, ■\\'hich being acted upon, the emptying of the 
 castor was more speedily eifected. Altogether the drunkard 
 must have swallowed about a quart of raw rum. I don't know 
 about getting drunk, but if the capability of drinking such a 
 quantity of raw spirit qualifies a person for that title, he certainly 
 passed with honours. 
 
 The king then " dashed" me a large decanter of rum for my 
 private use and a smaller one for my escort, and then telling me 
 that he would not detain me any longer, as my eye Avas so 
 painful, prepared to conduct me part of the way towards my 
 quarters. The umbrella and parasol were handed over to the 
 Dahlcros, — women who act the part of intermediates between the 
 king and Amazons and the men, — and from them they were 
 passed to some of the soldiers. Hitching his toga over his left 
 shoulder and taking a lighted pipe, the king crossed the bamboos, 
 and, accompanied by a crowd of cumichs, strode tov/ards the 
 eastern entrance to the square. I there joined liim, and wo 
 walked doAvn the road towards my residence. The studious 
 attention that was paid to the king was remarkable. A crowd 
 walked before him and swept off every leaf and twig, and pointed 
 out each hollow or hummock in the ground, while the Babel 
 was deafening. Gelele accompanied me about half way to my
 
 ^iG EECEPTIOX AT KAXA. chap. vi. 
 
 quarters, and, on leaving, handed me over to the Meu, who 
 bade me halt while the procession which had conducted me to 
 the levee passed on ahead of us. During this interval, a small 
 calabash containing forty-seven broken pieces of pottery was 
 shown to me, to indicate the number of guns that had been fired, 
 in my honour. Burton says a like number are expected, to be 
 fired at "\Yhydah, but I think he is mistaken. En route more 
 gun-firing, dancing, shouting, and other noises, in which the 
 negro ever delights, assailed our tympana. 
 
 On arrival at my quarters I found a gang of labourers had 
 been sent by the prince, who had covered in the courtyard with 
 matting and spread a table with rum and liqueurs. Here all the 
 caboceers assembled to drink my health, at my expense, and 
 entertain me with their acrobatic dancing. Outside, guns were 
 being fired, and a hubbub of di'ums, gong-gongs, and singing was 
 going on. This would have continued all night had I not 
 pleaded indisposition, and right glad was I to see the last of the 
 captains dance out of my sight. 
 
 This was my first experience of Dahoman ceremonial. Every- 
 body seems to have learnt their part by heart, for there is no 
 hitch in any of the intricacies of etiquette. No matter how 
 absurd any display may appear to a European eye, it is always 
 carried out Avitli the strictest decorum, fur it is all for the Idmj, 
 and eveiything connected with him is associated with servile awe, 
 if not the terror accompanpng despotism.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 JOURNEY TO ABOMEY. 
 
 Start for Abomey — The namyinkpo — Its wonderful power — Disgust of the 
 Amazons at it — Spleadid road — Fetiche — Lovely scenery — Adan-we Palace 
 and the Akwe-janahan market — The " grove of vexation " — Small reception 
 en route — Fetiche dances — Ironical fetichism — State carriage — Visit to 
 Hahansu— Arrival at Abomey — My lures ct p:natcs—A. guard of honour — 
 An ominous protector. 
 
 While discussing breakfast tlio nexf; morning, a messenger 
 arrived bearing a kimkinilqoo, or royal lion stick, from His Majesty, 
 "wlio desired me to proceed to'Abomey at my earliest convenience. 
 Of course all my people were for setting off on tlie instant, as tbe 
 custom obtains of performing all offices for the king with ostenta- 
 tious haste ; but as I much preferred finishing my breakfast to 
 being jolted in a hammock, I sent word to the king that I would 
 start before ^^firy^/jfiTM or mid-day. Beecham was horrified as 
 usual, but, as his ludicrous appearance only afforded mc amuse- 
 ment, I thought best to let his fears take their own course. Old 
 Blood-and-Cowries was busy mth stick and tongue among the 
 lazy porters, and under his able superintendence my luggage was 
 soon packed up and despatched to the capital. 
 
 The young Prince Ghugalah had been provided with a royal 
 stick, called a namijinhpo, which would ensure our sj)ccdy passage 
 through all gates, and besides it possessed the all-important 
 power of *' passing " us through the bands of Amazons who 
 frequent the road between Kana and the capital, and Avho would 
 be obliged to give way before the bearer of so powerful a token. 
 This was a favour rarely, if ever before, bestowed upon any 
 
 L 2
 
 118 JOURXEY TO ABOMEY. CHAP. \-ii. 
 
 white visitant to the king ; and uercr granted to a native, how- 
 ever exalted his rank. Old Beecham was speechless with the 
 excess of his feelings at so marked an evidence of the royal 
 favour; and told everybody we met, that the king "had done 
 great things for me," hut that he had made a " king's road " for 
 me too, showing that " he loved me too much." 
 
 "\Ve soon passed the eastern market and the 'square, now 
 deserted and showing few signs of the gorgeous pageant of yester- 
 day. I learned this morning that tlie king had gone to Abomey 
 during the night — an illustration of one of the singular customs 
 of the country, where everything is done secretly, and often 
 without any premonitory warning. The palace gates were closed 
 and the numerous decorations stripped from the supports of the 
 gate-house, beneath whose shade a dozen lazy guards reclined on 
 mats, smoking, jabbering, or weaving the royal cloth. 
 
 Just beyond the new gate wc met a gang of Amazons who, 
 with their usual braggadocio air, commenced to tinkle their bells 
 at us. Ghugalah, however, took them " flat aback," for, advanc- 
 ing vrith the magic stick raised above his head, and crying out 
 *^ A-h-fjo,'' with a long drawl upon the first syllable, he quickly 
 brought them to a sense of their position. Utterly dumbfounded 
 at the sight of the royal emblem, they stood stock still, and when 
 they had gathered together their wits, reluctantly made way for 
 us by rushing pell-mell into the bushes ; doubtless somewhat 
 crestfallen at their unique position — that of making way for a 
 man — instead of conceitedly swaggering along while all the 
 males, high and low, scampered out of their path. I hope 
 their pride received a lesson. I could not but laugh at the 
 chagrin but too evident upon the faces of the old beldames who 
 had charge of some of the gangs we met ; but it was of no use 
 grumbling, — out of our way they had to go, much to the delight 
 of my hammockmen, who wore overjoyed to have an opportunity 
 of paying out the soldieresses in their own coin, 
 
 A short walk brought us to the northern Kana gate, which was 
 richly embellished with fetiche huts, and other religious and pro-
 
 CHAP, VII. A Clior OF GODS. 149 
 
 tectivc emblems. The j'o-susu over tlic road was of unusual 
 dimensions, and tlie red and green mat, a. 1' Italienne standard, 
 was particularly bright. Across the road a long pole marked the 
 northern entrance to Kana, and custom necessitated our dismount- 
 ing ere arriving at the jo-susu, for the king alone rides through 
 any town gate. 
 
 Beyond this portal the road becomes worn into narrow foot- 
 paths; for although the grass is cleared off every six weeks, 
 the native custom of walking in Indian file soon covers the wide 
 road with a series of m.ere sheep-tracks, with high grass between ; 
 and it is no unusual thing to see a gang of women, twenty in 
 number, walk in single file along a road a hundred feet wide, 
 and the Jirst and last invariably have some hot argument under 
 weigh. 
 
 We had now arrived at the holy ground of Dahomey ; for on 
 cither side of the road at short intervals were the fetiche places 
 sacred to the various divisions of the Dahoman army. All were 
 more or less alike, low sheds covering a squat deity, before which 
 the various earthen pots, containing offerings that sent up a pun- 
 gent odour, were guarded by a fringe of the sai/rui thunder shrub, 
 and a tree stump painted red and white, and dressed in a white rag 
 called an avo, being the normal forms. The first of these is the 
 Pakhcij, sacred to the remains of a powerful kinglet of that name, 
 who offered considerable resistance to the conquering Daho, but 
 was slain at last by that monarch's own hand. The fetiche people 
 informed the king that sacrifices offered at his tomb would confer 
 more than Dutch courage upon tlie votary, and the present 
 shrine was therefore constructed. Nearly opposite this tomb is 
 the Alqncentohy another holy i)lace, the name meaning " strength 
 for man's hand," in the Mahi language. It is a fetiche for in- 
 vigorating the arms of soldiers in battle, enabling them to cut off 
 an enemy's head at one blow. Soon after, a din of drums, gong- 
 gongs, and other instruments of discord, announced something ex- 
 traordinary going on. This disturbance originated at the toll- 
 place of the priests of Legba — where the chief priest of that deity
 
 ir,0 JOLT.XEY TO ALOMEY. chap. vii. 
 
 is permitted to levy black mail on tlic king, and all visitors to the 
 capital. The place rejoices in the euphonious name of Legha-si- 
 (John, i.e., place for the wife (priest) of Legba. Here a band was 
 in full SAving, and the great fotichist sat squatted under a dilapi- 
 dated and dirty cotton umbrella. I have noticed that the clergy 
 seem to pride themselves in the dirt and wom-outedness of their 
 sun-shades and clothing. Fine linen is certainly not one of their 
 vanities, although they are by no means insensible to the purple. 
 I commissioned Amoosu to present my compKments to his holi- 
 ness, and was rewarded by the present of a charm against witch- 
 craft — a bag of some strong-smelling ingredients or other, encased 
 in a leather pouch, and intended to be worn round the left arm 
 above the elbow. A long wickerwork fence, the uprights of 
 ^^•hich were sprouting out in vigorous shoots, enclosed the 
 Lwemeli or residence of the priest of Agasun, who is the palla- 
 dium of Dahomey, and one of the most powerful of the gods in 
 the native pantheon. This priest is the head of all the metro- 
 politan clergy, and the Agasunno are the cardinals of the 
 Dahoman religion. The chief priest does not rank next to the 
 king, as Burton says, for he forgot that His Majesty of Dahomey 
 is as far above his subjects as Buddah is above his devotees ; 
 besides which, church and state have not the slightest connection 
 as regards precedence. 
 
 The shrine of the Blue or Bru division followed ; the Bm 
 vodun as it is called. This is merely a sacred tree, daubed with 
 red paint, and the roots garnished with pots of oil and filthy rags. 
 Opposite this fetiche is the fascine-like abode of the Aroiich, like- 
 wise protective of the same regiment. This deity possesses the 
 j)Ower of conferring piercing sight upon its votaries ; and its 
 emblem — an eye, together with the tree and trefoil, the distin- 
 guishing mark of the Bruvodun fetiche, often appears on the 
 standards borne by the Blue company. 
 
 A few yards further on, a conical heap of swish, with an earthen 
 pot let into its summit, denoted the abode of the Aizan, or Ehzan, 
 a deity performing the functions of the Roman ^l^dile, whose
 
 CHAP. VII. LOVELY SCENERY. 151 
 
 special office it is to protect the roads from being taken possession 
 of by evil spirits, and to keep them in repair. If the first part of 
 his duty is no better performed than the latter, he must be a lazy 
 deity indeed. This god docs not seem to appreciate the offerings 
 of the Dahonians, for several vultures who had been regaling 
 themselves at the pot containing cankie and palm oil, were 
 startled from their sacrilegeous meal by our approach. 
 
 The country here had a lovely appearance as we marched along 
 in the shadow of the tall oil palms, whose graceful, frond-like 
 tops shivered in the breeze ; and, dotted at intervals, the cocoa 
 palm, conspicuous by the brighter green of its leaves, waved its 
 feather)'- head ^^dth an aspen-like rustling. DeHcate ferns drooped 
 their long pendent fronds from the crevices formed by the fallen 
 palm leaves, the dcliciously fresh green hue of their foliage form- 
 ing an agreeable contrast to the dull olives and cool greys of the 
 palm trunks uj)on which they were parasitic. Convolvuli of every 
 hue \aed with the passiflora) in^the splendour and delicacy of their 
 flowers, Avhile here and there an orange or lime tree covered with 
 snowy blossoms, shed a refreshing fragrance around. Orioles, 
 weaver-birds, and j^lfintain-eaters, gorgeous in the vivid colours of 
 their plumage, flitted from bough, to bough, while sun-birds 
 flashed in the sunlight like winged gems. The road, knee deep 
 in some parts vnth. grasses of various species, was gaily speckled 
 with flowers of many colours, amidst whoso honey-laden stores 
 butterflies of rainbow hues held high revel as they sipped 
 the mellifluous sweets. One species, the Papilio Pyladcs of 
 naturalists, strongly reminded me of our English swallow-tail ; 
 and in thought I was again plunging recklessly among the sedgy 
 fens of Cambridgeshire, heedless of bogs, drains, or lodes, in the 
 absorbing pursuit of this splendid butterfly. 
 
 It was difficult to imagine so peaceful a scene in the heart of 
 the blood-stained kingdom of Dahomey. The a-h-go of Ghugalah 
 soon dispelled my home thoughts, and my attention was directed 
 by Beeckam to another "holy place," the iovcih pro forma, of an 
 ancient king of Adan-we, who rejoiced in an unpronounceable
 
 152 JOURXEY TO ABOMEY. chap. vir. 
 
 cognomen, a combination of B s, G s, D s, and S s. Thirty yards 
 beyond is the Adan-gbno-ten of the country jxir excellence, for 
 here His Majesty repeats his coronation oath when journeying 
 between the capital and his country residence. The road widens 
 to a hundred yards, and the swearing- place is thickly studded with 
 fetiche paraphernalia of every description, A thicket of locust- 
 trees to the right conceals the wattled residence of the priest who 
 has charge of this important post ; but although his holiness did 
 not choose to appear^ />? ];)ropnd persond, he took care to have a duly 
 qualified bagsheesh man, stationed in a conspicuous position to 
 le\'y Peter's pence from our people as they ^^assed. The road 
 now spHts into two, forming a kind of loop, the enclosed plot of 
 ground being sacred to a deity called Avreketeh, who is supposed 
 to favour mankind by purloining the keys of the ocean storehouse, 
 which is under the custody of Match. "SVhy this marine god 
 should have a fetiche place so far inland is inexpHcable, as one 
 would suppose his worship would be confined to the coast. His 
 thieving propensities remind one of the ithitc lies of the Romish 
 church. This fork is the boundary of the district of OJnraJnce, or 
 Uhwaweh, abeady mentioned as the first station of Prince Daho 
 after the separation of the Alladah princes on the decease of their 
 father. The old inhabitants still retain their name, but the 
 original blood is considerably diluted with that of other tribes, 
 whose amalgamation constitutes the Dahoman nation. 
 
 To the right is the classical Adan-we Palace built by Tegbwesun, 
 the fifth monarch of Dahomey, to perpetuate the conquest of 
 Uhwaweh. It is but a flimsy structure, half swish and half 
 bamboo, and is rarely inhabited by royalty except as a half-way 
 house of call, when His Majesty journeys to Kana. The palace 
 received its name Aclan, brave, u-e or vi, son of, because the pos- 
 sibility of the erection of such a palace in the "S'ory heart of a 
 quondam hostile country could only be accomjilished by the " sons 
 of the brave." 
 
 Of course the mere presence of royalty entails a considerable 
 retinue in attendance, and their wants must be supplied. C'onsc-
 
 CHAP. VII. "THE GROVE OF VEXATION." 153 
 
 qucntly, around every palace there is a collection of booths where 
 vendors of all the native creature comforts ply a brisk trade 
 during the stay of the court. At Adan-we, however, the erection 
 of this market was forbidden, merely in accordance with a royal 
 caprice, and the retainers of the courtiers had to bring provisions 
 with them from Abomey or Kana. Gelele very sensibly declared 
 this to be a nuisance, and instituted a market on the road-side 
 between this palace and the village of Addein, about a mile to 
 the left. This market without a town is called Akwe-janahan. 
 Alace, cowries — -janaJtan, suppose you have none — meaning that 
 " here is the market, but if you have not brought any cowries it is 
 of no use to you." A busy trade is always under weigh at this 
 place, for the traffic between Kana and Abomey is very consider- 
 able, and the grateful shade of the majestic cotton and umbrella 
 trees entices the wayfarer to halt, and indulge in a " chop " and 
 smoke. 
 
 Beyond the Akwe-janahan is the chameleon-guarded fetiche- 
 place of Dejcli, said to impart the power of governing to its 
 worshippers, and consequently tabooed to all save the crown 
 prince. To the right is a little bower hiding the Logun-aizan-li, 
 a fetiche sacred to Aizan. The words signify, "the road (taken 
 by) Aizan when angry." Why the Dahoman ^dile should always 
 come here when in a rage I cannot imagine ; but it must be very 
 convenient for the objects of his wrath, who have only to avoid 
 this spot to keep clear of his displeasure. 
 
 Close to this "grove of vexation " is a holy tree, the " Ga-sa- 
 iihlin," or "cotton tree, for throwing bows." The meaning of 
 this term is a secret, known only to the fetiche priests. 
 
 Here a battalion of soldiers were dr;iwn up to the left of the 
 road, forming a line about two hundred 3'ards in length. The 
 chiefs were seated on stools beneath their umbrellas, which were 
 all of the newest and most gaily coloured designs. One officer 
 had invested in a number of penny looking-glasses, and had 
 stitched them to the lappets of his sun-shade. As they waved to 
 and fro in the breeze, the reflection of the sunbeams caused a
 
 154 JOUKXEY TO ABOMEY. chap. ^^^. 
 
 brilliant play of liglit to wander o^•cr the squatted soldiery, who 
 were completely dazzled, as much by the magnificence of the 
 umbrella as by the glaring reflections. As I was carried past these 
 warriors they saluted me with a wulkh ! umlleh ! and a grunt ; 
 the chieftains bowing and the band playing during the ceremony. 
 A complimentary speech was shrieked out by a gong-gong man, 
 and a jester made me a present of a yam amidst the jeers of his 
 comrades. After the speech more wullehs followed, and the salute 
 was ended by the firing of several guns. 
 
 By this time I had begun to feel somewhat satiated with the 
 frequency of these holy places, and hailed with delight the 
 ruined palace of Nakho, who was deposed and slain by Daho. 
 It was in a rather worse condition than any other king's house 
 we had yet seen, and was used as a palm-oil manufactory by the 
 king, who kept a troop of Amazons constantly on guard within. 
 These soldieresses have a fetiche appropriated to themselves a 
 little farther on, where the road divides. This shrine is the 
 Vodun-no-Dcmcn, or fetiche-house of Demon, a Mahi deity who 
 guarded the chastity of the kings' wives in that country, and 
 consequently was a very acceptable addition to the Dahpman 
 pantheon. Here a portion of the clearing was fenced off by a 
 few slender sticks, the tops of Avhich were connected by a thin 
 grass rope. This frail barricade is amply sufficient to keep back 
 the densest crowd, as to touch the rope is to incur the displeasure 
 of Aizan, who will wait for an opportunity of punishing the 
 delinquent. Why cannot we have something of a similar kind 
 to lessen the labours of our police when any public functionary 
 or foreign potentate passes through our streets ? 
 
 On three sides of the square thus formed a motley crowd were 
 squatted in the blazing sun, while just within the enclosure a 
 band was creating a melodious discord. The side opposite the 
 road was kept clear by two besom-bearing policemen, and on 
 our approach a herald requested me to alight and see what was 
 going on. Of course a request is synonymous with a demand 
 in such cases ; and an umbrella and chair being brought out,
 
 CHAP. VII. A FETICHE DANCE. 155 
 
 together with some heart-cooling water, we prepared for the 
 spectacle whatever it might he. The hand struck up a still 
 harsher tune, and in a few minutes a score of figures sidled into 
 the enclosure from a low shed to the left. For some minutes I 
 Avas utterly at a loss to understand the ludicrous ohjccts that 
 presented themselves before us. A close study, however, dis^ 
 closed about twenty women, whose faces, arms, and legs were 
 striped and spotted with red and white paint. Their hair was 
 entwined "with long grass and leaflets of the cocoa-nut palm, 
 and a ruff of the same material was tied round their necks. On 
 their heads they wore two kinds of coverings. The right division 
 rejoiced in tall beaver hats shaped in the style in vogue amongst 
 
 i 
 
 English witches, while the oj)posite party were decorated with 
 immense flip-flap straw affairs, each big enough to cover a loo- 
 table. The brims of these hats were strung with bones, feathers, 
 cowries, and such mysterious fetiche charms, which clattered 
 together with every movement. All wore a kind of waistcoat 
 that seemed to have forsworn the wash-tub for many a long day. 
 A brown sldrt of cotton cloth descended to the knee, and like | 
 the hat was covered with magic "bits and bats." 
 
 These priestesses — for the pendant breasts revealed their sex — 
 were under the orders of an aged crone, whose shrivelled appear- 
 ance was anything but engaging, and who heightened her charms 
 by daubs of yellow ochre on various parts of her body. She 
 commenced a monotonous chant ; and never shall I forget the 
 appearance of that sepulchral mouth with its four tobacco-stained 
 tusks that appeared bowing to each other, or to have been thrown 
 into her mouth and have fixed themselves in her gums hap- 
 hazard. The strain was taken up by her crew, who commenced 
 a waltzing kind of motion round her. As the music quickened, 
 so did the steps of the dancers, and in a few minutes the whole 
 band were whirling and whizzing round the old beldam, their 
 skirts flying out like those of a ballet girl, revealing the symmetry 
 of their nether limbs to the admiration of the lookers-on. 
 Faster grew the motion, and the arms of the performers were
 
 156 JOURNEY TO ABOMEY. chap. vii. 
 
 thrown about in every attitude, while the mistress of the cere- 
 monies directed the movement with a small baton, with which 
 she occasionally stirred up her matted hair, or varied its use by 
 picking her unwholesome gums. Half an hour of this whirligig 
 movement completely knocked up the performers, who reminded 
 me of the dancing dervishes of the East. Fetiche water was 
 brought out, and a libation poured out to Aizan, the autocrat 
 of the roads, and a request for bagsheesh terminated the 
 ceremony, 
 
 I was afterwarJs told that these human spinning-tops were the 
 special priestesses of Aizan, and that by the king's order they 
 had offered up thanks to their deity in the form of a dance for 
 preserving my hfc in my journey to the capital. 
 
 The two roads joining at this place are named the Ishagga 
 and the Atakoh roads respectively, from the two villages of those 
 names, which are built about a mile from the junction. These 
 villages are of very recent date, ha\'ing been built to com- 
 memorate the conquests of the towns of those names in the early 
 part of the present king's reign. This custom is common to 
 Ashanti as well as Dahomey. Burton says the king puts the 
 captives taken from the conquered tovm iu the commemorative 
 village, but the fact is that the male prisoners are consigned to 
 the tender mercies of the Ningan, while the women and children 
 are absorbed in the capacious maw of the various palaces. 
 
 "We took the main or Ishagga road, which brought us to the 
 Shea butter tree, stated by Burton to be "" the only fruitful 
 bassia in the country." Surely he never could have entered the 
 garden of the Portuguese fort at Whydali ! This specimen — 
 or rather the locality — is known as the TJgo-li, or road of the 
 Ugo, i.e., Shea butter tree. A few miserable old hags drive a 
 precarious trade in cooked yams, water, and fetiche beneath its 
 cooHng shade. The tree stands in the centre of the road, and 
 is covered with strings of '(vrekctch and thunder shrub. Opposite 
 this sacred tree is a gig;.utic bombax, which is the abode of an 
 C'sdl spirit ; this, perhaps, being an invention of the fetichists
 
 CHAP. VII. IKOXICAL FETICniSM. 157 
 
 who enhance the sanctity of their tree hy contrast with the 
 demon-haunted cotton tree hard hy. 
 
 Soon after passing the Ugo we hoard several volleys of mus- 
 ketry, which Beecham informed me was the signal to all whom 
 it might concern that His Majesty was come into court. We 
 soon came to another sacred spot, which was a perfect museum 
 of holy pottery. This is a foreign importation, heing devoted 1o 
 the protection (?) of the Kago people, who are continually at 
 war with Dahomey. Is it possible that there is such a thing as 
 ironical fetichism ? for I should imagine the destruction of the 
 images was more in keeping with the wishes of the king, — without 
 lie fears to become a second Alexander, and have no more worlds 
 to conquer. The immediate neighbourhood is called Lefflefloh, 
 or country of Leffle, the patron saint of the Nagos, who, so far 
 from being exterminated by Gezu {ride Burton), are to this day 
 the most implacable enemies of the country. 
 
 We here met a deputation from Prince Ilahansu, who brought 
 water and liqueurs to welcome us to his father's capital. He 
 said that the time he had so much longed for would soon arrive, 
 when he should see his father's friend face to face. 
 
 A trivia, the junction of the roads leading to Jegbeh, Coomassie, 
 and the Kana-gate of Abomcy, Avas the site of the next fetiche- 
 house, that of the Akwashi, a Mahi goddess who presides over 
 child-birth. 
 
 We took the path to the centre, where we passed a couple of 
 the royal carriages drawn up to the road-side. These were 
 ordinary stage-coaches of the last-century pattern, no doubt the 
 gift of some lucky slave-dealer. As horses are never used for 
 draught, the carriages were draAvn by gangs of men \\\\o tailed 
 on to long trail ropes attached in Keu of traces, while half a 
 score steered the machine by means of the pole. An admiring- 
 crowd stood gazing at these marvels of the king's wealth, none 
 daring to approach the royal property nearer than a dozen 
 yards. 
 
 After a half mile of dull road, lying between fields of maize
 
 358 JOURXEY TO ABOMEY. CHAr. vii. 
 
 and yams, wo arrived at the private residence of Prince Hahausu. 
 This "svas on tlie left hand of the road, and possessed nothing 
 remarkahle in its appearance to indicate it as the abode of the 
 future autocrat of Dahomey. Of course there were the usual 
 Bo fetiche and Legba sheds before the gate, and a jo susu hung 
 from the gallows over the door. The principal courtyard was 
 surrounded b}' a fence of twisted grass, wattled between uprights 
 of young tree trunks, which showed evident signs of the fertihty 
 of the soil in the vigorous growth of the shoots from theii' 
 tops. 
 
 We alighted from our hammock, and, after proceeding through 
 several courtyards, arrived at a long shed beneath which a row 
 of highly polished guns were arranged on a table, while cartridge- 
 belts, powder-horns, and other implements of warfare decorated 
 the walls. The whole place was beautifully clean and neat ; not 
 a stray leaf being ^Hsible on the smoothly swept floor. About a 
 dozen guards lazed about, some smoking and others busily engaged 
 sleeping. 
 
 Beneath the roof, suspended from the rafters, a peculiar 
 machine like a fly-cage attracted my attention. It was made 
 of twigs bent into a hexagonal form, and covered with blue and 
 white cotton yarn in stripes, like those on a water melon. From 
 the lower portion of this cage a square of parchment was hung, 
 illuminated in blue and scarlet, and inscribed with a verse from 
 the Koran. This was a Mohammetan charm against fire. 
 
 Leaving the guard-house we proceeded down a narrow passage 
 to the left, and after sundry twistings in every direction came 
 to the prince's fetiche-house — hereafter to be described — and, 
 sitting upon chairs pi'ovidcd for us, awaited the coming of the 
 prince. In a few minutes a messenger entered, and we proceeded 
 across two more courtyards, and again took our seats under a 
 long shed, the walls and floor of which were whitewashed. After 
 a short delay the door opposite us opened, and Prince Hahansu 
 made his entree. lie was a fine young man, apparently about 
 twenty-four years of age, tall, like his father, and of a most
 
 iiAr. VII. VISIT TO rPJXCE IIAIIANSU. 15'J 
 
 intelligent expression. His head was shaven, leaving but a 
 single tuft on the right side. Like all the royal family he Avas 
 more tawny than black, and the tout ensemble of his appearance 
 was more Circassian than Negro, and strongly reminded me of 
 the late JVIarquis of Hastings. Round his neck he wore a fetiche 
 chain, encased in a square leather bag, ornamented with leopard 
 skin. His dress was merely a black and white print toga, worn 
 after the fashion of the Arabic Jnjhe. 
 
 He cordially shook hands with me, and said that at last he 
 was satisfied, for he had seen his friend. Water and various 
 drinkables were brought out and our mutual healths were pledged, 
 after that of the king had been duly honoured. He said that he 
 had taken advantage of a few spare minutes to see me, but that 
 his presence was required at the palace. He told me that he 
 would be only too happy to supply me with anything I required, 
 and during the whole of my stay this young man was unre- 
 mitting in his attention to my wants. A more generous, hospitable, 
 intelligent young fellow I never met. Pipes were brought out 
 and filled from the capacious pouch in vogue throughout the 
 country, and I felt more at home with Hahansu than I had done 
 since leaving England. After a short chat we were conducted to 
 our hammocks, the prince preceding me, according to Dahoman 
 etiquette. Soon after starting a smart shower set in, and the 
 prince sent a large umbrella to keep off the rain. 
 
 Close to the prince's house is the abode of the Adoncjan, who 
 also possesses a jail, within whose walls are immured scores of 
 wretches, who will linger in durance vile for many a day. Near 
 it is a small market, and beyond is the usual gallows-like josusu, 
 denoting a town gate. "We dismounted and walked across the 
 boundary, the custody of which was entrusted to a numerous 
 family of fetiche deities who — conspicuously arrayed in red and 
 wdiite stripes and spots, or plainly whitewashed — kept guard 
 over the entrance to the capital of the kingdom. The ground 
 around was strewn with ashes, and the smell of the decomposing 
 ofi'erings in the fetiche-pots was anything but exhilirating. We
 
 IGO JOURXEY TO ABOMEY. chap. vii. 
 
 shortly after tui-ned off the main road to the left, and in a few 
 minutes were hrought to the English house in the Coomassie 
 quarter, where Beccham told me other white "sisitors to the king 
 had pre\'iously been installed. 
 
 Its condition had in no ways improved since they left it ; the 
 accommodation consisting of a long bam, with two rooms for 
 eating and sleeping in, and a couple of store-rooms {Za-Jio), dark 
 as Eblis. Between this sanctum and the street was the reception 
 court-yard, with a somewhat dilapidated shed in the centre. 
 The hammockmen and porters were quartered to the left, and 
 between them and myself was a little temple containing the larcs 
 et pcnatcs of the place. These were worth describing. The 
 fetiche-house was whitewashed all over within, and the gods 
 were installed on raised platforms of hard beaten earth. Opposite 
 the door were two alHgators or dolphins — I never could exactly 
 tell which — certainly they were as much like the one as the 
 other. To the right of these monsters was a heap of red clay 
 stuck full of broken pieces of potteiy and garnished with a 
 chaplet of feathers. This deity had a platform a few inches 
 high appropriated to himself. 
 
 Balancing this god on the left was a wooden doll — 
 evidently of the male sex — with a piece of rag tied round his 
 loins. Before this Bo-fetiche was a red pot perforated with round 
 holes, much resembing a cuUender. Then came a Legba — ugly 
 even for that deity — a squat little monster made of swish, with 
 cowries for teeth, eyes ditto, and a nose truly negro in its breadth. 
 This "devil" as Beecham called it, was seated on a low stool with 
 its hands upon its knees, and its flat feet extended in front. Such 
 a monster was, as Burton truly says, " well calculated to frighten 
 away, as it is intended to do, witchcraft from the devotee." 
 
 Numbers of curious iron funnel-shaped deities garnished with 
 blood and cowries were arranged around the temple, and several 
 other gods in various stages of decay, were scattered over the 
 floor. The main entrance to the compound was guarded by an 
 immense Aizan fetiche, flanked on either side by a Danli fetiche
 
 CHAP. Yii. A GRIM DOORKEEPER. 161 
 
 — a clay snake, evidently of tlie Cerastes species, while on each, 
 side of the gate was a collection of fetiche ceramics. The lintel 
 of the gate was thatched, and from the centre hung an unfortunate 
 cock, the smell of which was so unbearable that I surreptitiously 
 removed it, for I was accustomed to have my smoke under its 
 shade. I did not experience any ill-luck from doing so to my own. 
 knowledge. Our landlord, a fac-simile of the cripple at Kana, 
 .soon made his appearance, and after "maunin" made signs of 
 wisliing to drink our health. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival a guard of ten soldiers from the 
 palace marched in and took up their station at the main gate. 
 They were extremely useful in keeping out intruders, and their 
 presence was a distinctive mark of the esteem in which I was 
 held by the king, for no other visitor had before been honoured 
 with such attendants. 
 
 Old Blood-and-Cowries soon ran up a balneary at the gable end 
 of the house ; and Joe was quickly engaged in superintending the 
 cookery department, while Bukau tallied the stores into the rooms 
 prepared to receive them. 
 
 A fetiche priest came in in the evening, bringing the skuH of a 
 man, which he af&xed over the lintel of my private apartments, 
 and, after sundry incantations, departed. I was told that a herald 
 went round the town and gave notice that no one was to molest 
 me or intrude upon my privacy, under penalty of having his skull 
 nailed up as a companion to the one akeady fixed over my door. 
 Truly summumjus summa injuria.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. 
 
 Complimentary sticks — The Akwaji Uhon-niikon — Bwekonhun — The Adanzan 
 — Avenue of palms — Amazonian music — Gelele's appearance — The 
 Amazonian corps— The Agbaraya — Manner of firing their guns — The male 
 soldiery — The bamboo rubicon — Reappearance of the Amazons — The 
 Cowrie scramble — Gelele drinks my health — Ningan's speech — Jesters — 
 Night guards — Their reliefs — Fearful music — Visit from the Klan — Visit 
 to Hahansu — Arrival of the Governor of the Portuguese fort at Whydah — 
 Washing clothes — Visit from the prince — Patience a necessary article. 
 
 In the morning I received complimentary sticks or ''Kpo" 
 from tlie King, the Prince, and the Adonejan. The messengers, 
 of coui'se, expected a draught of rum, and as the kpos would be 
 sent every morning I at once gave orders to Amoosu to stop the 
 grog of all messengers except those of the King and the highest 
 dignitaries of the State. I saved many a gallon of spirits by this 
 timely order. During breakfast Prince Ghugalah brought the 
 royal stick — a " Kini-kini-kpo," — i.e., a "lion stick," the pattern 
 distinguishing this one being a very good carving of a lion with a 
 hand in his mouth. This was wrapped in a white handkerchief, 
 as are all the royal sticks. Ghugalah brought a message from 
 his Majesty requesting — i.e., demanding — my presence in the 
 square at the Coomassie Palace to receive a salute from the 
 Amazons. Knowing it was but a short distance to the palace, in 
 my ignorance I was going to walk, but no such plebean mode of 
 locomotion was permitted to the " King's friend," as I was by 
 this time universally called. ]\Iy hammock was ordered out, a 
 band was in readiness, and half a score valiant soldiers guarded 
 my unworthy person. Altogether, what with chair carriers, 
 note-book bearers, pipe men, and sundry other attendants, my
 
 \ DAIIOMAX LAROUUEn. \/<,n'.,<i pane IG'>.
 
 t 
 
 i
 
 CHAP. VIII. GliZU'S BWEKOXHUX 1G3 
 
 retinue contained about tliirty men, and made quite au imposing 
 display. 
 
 A walk of a few yards brouglit us to the south-eastern comer 
 of the Coomassie Palace, where the king was at present residing. 
 
 Croscing the Uhon-nukon, or square, we passed the main gate, 
 the Akwagi, which possessed an immense Pwe shed to the 
 right of the entrance, that on the left being much smaller and 
 solely appropriated by the guards. As usual, a josusu with a 
 tricolour hung over the gateway, the door itself being decorated 
 with several ancient crania, besides a series of figures cut in rude 
 reHef representing, at least so I was told, the procession in the 
 So-sin Custom. The space opposite this gate had been cleared 
 and swept, and a number of the guard with bells round their necks 
 kept off all intruders. 
 
 A few yards to the right of the gate was a small postern shaded 
 by several fine trees, under which a large white cotton umbrella 
 decorated with cross swords of blue baft had been set up for our 
 convenience. As soon as I had taken my seat, and my escort had 
 arranged themselves around me. Prince Hahansu came up and 
 told me that his father wished to show the respect and friendship I 
 which he felt towards me by giving me a public salute of the 
 Amazons— his household troops. A brief interval followed the 
 delivery of this message, which we will fill up with a description 
 of the Coomassie square which takes a prominent position in the 
 Annual Customs. 
 
 Immediately facing the main gate is a square enclosure bound- 
 ing a low swish wall, within which is an immense cotton tree sacred 
 to the late King Gezu, for he was accustomed to hold his court 
 beneath its shade before the Coomassie Palace was built. (I hope he 
 was more fortunate with the vultures in the branches above than I 
 was.) It was therefore preserved by his son -and received the name 
 of Bwekon-hun, the living {i.e., ever) happy cotton tree. Within 
 the walls is a small fetiche hut, and a white flag is kept flying 
 fi'om a barbarous calumny upon a flagstaff at the entrance. The 
 reader is cautioned against confusing this tree with the Palace of 
 Bwckon Ilwcgboh, hereafter to be described.
 
 164 THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. chap. viii. 
 
 To the right of tte Bwekon-liuii is the Adanzan, Gezu's swearing 
 house. This is a series of circular steps, thirteen in number, 
 protected from the weather by a conical thatched roof surmounted 
 by a white flag. The sides are hidden by mats, except two 
 entrances, one to the north and the other opposite. These 
 entrances are marked on cither side by a pile of stones brought 
 from Mahi, while a row of the knob-kerrie sticks, Anatinhyoh or 
 Ogoh, sacred to the Bo fetiche, surrounds the mound. Before 
 starting on any great war palaver the king has this swearing- 
 house unroofed and daubed with hois de vache. His Majesty 
 then ascends the rostrum, and amidst the admiring cheers of the 
 multitude swears that he is going to " break" certain towns, while 
 his officers emulate their master and each other by their vain- 
 glorious boasting. All mean to go to war on the veni, vidi, vicl 
 principle, but with the majority it is vox et i^reterea nihil. 
 
 There is a tradition attached to this swearing-house which has 
 been handed down from Gezu's time. When that monarch was 
 building the Adanzan, the drought was so severe that the work- 
 men had considerable difficulty in procuring sufficient water to 
 mix with the swish. All the water-pits were reduced to slimy 
 pools of a very horse-pondy nature, and the only well that supplied 
 any good drinkable water was the Didoh, or sacred spring to the 
 north, the water of which is used in the worship of Nesu, especially 
 in the Sin Kwain Custom hereafter to be described. One of the 
 soldier-builders audaciously attempted to obtain some of this holy 
 water, but, being discovered, was brought into the king's presence. 
 His Majesty said that, as the culprit had not only insulted his 
 king by attcsapting to obtain his drinking water for building 
 purposes, but had also sacrilegiously attempted to take the holy 
 Nesu water, the only expiation he could make for so heinous 
 a crime was to be decapitated on the Adanzan and give his blood 
 to be mingled with the swish. The offender was at once 
 dispatched, and the floor of the swearing place is formed out of 
 this blood-moistened swish, and if any person were to take a 
 false oath during the ceremony at the Adanzan, the blood would 
 at once crv out a2;ainst him.
 
 CHAP. vui. THE AKAVAJI SQUARE. 165 
 
 Between the Adanzan and the gate is a pollarded tree, with 
 the usual accompaniment of pots of filth, the whole being sur- 
 mounted by a white flag flying from a crooked pole. This is 
 a Bo-fetiche. The left side of the square is hedged in with a 
 long shed, where the caboceers administer justice in minor cases 
 during the early morning hours ; each ofiicer having a particular 
 spot assigned to him. At the south-western end of the palace 
 wall is also a long shed, beneath the shade of which the officers 
 of the court await the summons of their royal master. The south 
 side of the square contains several other sheds ; while the road 
 to Jcgbeh exposes a lovely vista of palm-trees to the view at 
 the south-eastern corner. Opposite the " waiting-sheds " is the 
 residence of the Meu, whose jail is, like the Adonejan's, crammed 
 with prisoners. 
 
 A volley of musketry and a beating of drums, with other 
 martial sounds, caused the assembled crowd to turn their heads to 
 the Akwaji gate, from which a band emerged, composed of young 
 girls dressed in showy prints, who, by their plump condition, 
 showed that whatever else they might be required to do within 
 the mysterious walls of the palace, they were not expected to 
 starve themselves. They took up their station round the fetiche 
 pots and flag, and commenced a hideous row with no more music 
 in it than there is in a ship's galley when she is rolling heavily. 
 
 They tortured us with their noise for a quarter of an hour, 
 when, amidst a second volley his Majesty of Dahomey stalked out 
 of the palace. Upon this occasion he was dressed in a blue tunic 
 without sleeves and " chokoto " of gaily coloured silk. His arms 
 were naked, except a few rings, with fetiche bags attached, which 
 he wore above the elbow. He smoked a long silver-mounted 
 pipe, and wore a Idnd of Scotch bonnet, with the dragon of the 
 Bru Company embroidered on the sides. His feet were protected 
 by sandals richly ornamented with leather, and a couple of silver 
 rings jingled round one of hi^ ankles. He was followed by four of 
 his *' Leopard- wives, '^L^r Kp osi, v/ho kept near his person during 
 the review, while a bevy of attendants took turns in holding
 
 166 THE AMAZOXIAjS' SALUTE. chap. viii. 
 
 a yellow and scarlet parasol over his head. Over this parasol a 
 gaudy tent umbrella uas held Ly a squadron of buxom women, 
 who appeared to pride themselves in the manner in which they 
 twii'led and twisted it round, in time to the music which had 
 at last struck up a tune something like "Ninety-five." The king 
 was a good head taller than any of the Amazons, and appeared 
 to take a pride in showing off his fine j^ersou before us. 
 
 A troop of Amazons followed the immediate attendants of the 
 king, and arranged themselves in a straggling line, twenty deep, 
 across the square. There were detachments from several troops 
 of these soldieresses, each distinguished by its particular badge. 
 The Life-guards, or Agbaraya troop, who are veteran warriors, 
 were dressed in blue tunics, with grey petticoats sho^ving beneath 
 and reaching to the knee, their ammunition being contained in 
 black leather cartridge-boxes {(((jhaja) ; while a long fillet, with 
 an alligator or di-agon, was bound round their brows. Another 
 troop represented the Gbeto, the elephant hunters, the corre- 
 sponding regiment to the Gan-u-nlan, or Conquerors of all 
 animals, on the men's side. These were di-essed in brown 
 waistcoats, with pink underskii'ts, with a profuse gii'dle of 
 leather thongs, which hung down below the skirts. 
 
 A third batch were to show off the prowess of the Tower Gun 
 company, whose insignia were scarlet tassels to their agbaja, and 
 tower-guns for arms ; while a f(jurth represented the blunder- 
 buseers. 
 
 The king advanced to the front, and, giving a signal, the 
 whole force prepared to load. The agbaja were brought to the 
 front with a jerk, and a small cartridge very lilce a wooden 
 German match-box was taken out. These cartridges have lids 
 to them, and contain about a handful of coarse powder. The 
 lids were taken off and held in the mouth, while the powder was 
 poured down the gun, which was generally held slanting, not ^vith 
 the butt resting on the ground. A^few jerks brought the powder 
 down to the breech, and a few pinches of priming fiom a small 
 pouch, on the right side, completed the loading. Their guns
 
 CHAP. vin. AMAZOXIAX GUX DEILL. 167 
 
 liave the pans protected by a conical leather affair, which sKdes 
 along the barrel, and the muzzles have likewise a leathern cap. 
 A inece of rag is also attached to the butt to wipe the flint and 
 striker, and a leaf of the sayan shrub is rarely wanting, besides 
 sundry private fetiche charms of the owner, such as cowries stuck 
 on with the blood of a fowl, afa marks, &c. All are kept in 
 splendid order, and in court the soldiers arc constantly polishing 
 their weapons. 
 
 A musket was handed to the king, who, holding it to his 
 shoulder, rather an unusual attitude, fired it off. The Amazons 
 then took up the salute, and kept up a straggling fire for a 
 quarter of an hour. Some fired their pieces fi'om the hip. The 
 blunderbuss women placed the butts of their brass weapons on 
 the ground, and seemed delighted at the dust thrown up by the 
 recoil. When a gun missed fire the owner was greeted with 
 jibes by her comrades, and the unlucky one usually retired to the 
 rear. Some would advance on tip-toe, as though stealing up to 
 an enemy ; while others would fire off their guns in the midst of 
 sundry ecarts. Others held their guns over their heads with both 
 hands, the muzzle being pointed horizontally, and then fired 
 them off, to the danger of the eyes and wool of their right or 
 left files. Some of the very old warriors fired by a substitute, 
 they themselves being only armed ■«dth an iron-bound latti. 
 
 The fixing being over, the king and his soldieresses advanced 
 at a pas-de-charge, his Majesty bowing as he passed us. After he 
 had shuffled along round the uhon-nukon, the whole company 
 started off at a brisk wallc, firing their guns as they advanced. 
 Some of the warrioresses were badly singed by the burning 
 powder, and it is a marvel that there were not more accidents 
 when their carelessness is taken into consideration. At the third 
 round the whole bevy of Akhosusi set up a yell which ended 
 with a groan, and was meant to be a welcome. It was more 
 calculated to frighten one than to set his mind at ease. All 
 then started for a firing trip round the palace, the king in the 
 van.
 
 168 THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. chap. viir. 
 
 Just before the Amazons made tlieir appearance, a number of 
 the guards of tbe palace, marshalled by several eunuchs, who 
 tinkled their bells at every stop, brought bundles of the bamboo 
 tree {Eajjhia rinifem), and laid them end to end round the uhon- 
 nukon. These poles are the boundary line between the Amazons 
 and the " outside." To cross them is death to any man, except 
 the chief eunuchs ; but •women and young children are exempt 
 from the penalty. A guard squatted at every few j-ards round 
 the line thus formed, and warned off all intruders by the tinkle, 
 tinkle, of his bell. Here and there a hunch-backed poHceman 
 kept the rabble in awe by the application of the rods he carried 
 in his hand ; and these keepers of the peace varied their occupa- 
 tion by shouting out the king's strong names from time to time, 
 interlarded with cries of N'daboh — silence. 
 
 After the Akhosusi had departed on their round, the sticks 
 were removed, and a battalion of men-soldiers appeared to the 
 right. A line was formed, and they advanced in higgledy- 
 piggledy order, firing their gims as they came along. Some 
 warriors would rush to the front with staring eyes, and after 
 taking aim, let drive at an imaginary foe. So heavily were 
 the guns charged, that the report was as loud as that of a 
 4-pounder, and two or three burst during the review. Officers 
 and men were indiscriminately mingled together, but their 
 showy dresses and bright arms, as seen through rifts of powder 
 smoke, made up a grand spectacle of savage military display. 
 
 After the customary trinal march round, the king and the 
 Amazons made their appearance to the left. The men retired 
 and the eunuchs again laid down the sticks, while several pani- 
 ganhuntoh struck warning notes on their gong-gongs. When the 
 ground was cleared, the Amazons drew up in an irregular line in 
 front of mc ; the king occupying the centre beneath a crimson and 
 gold umbrella, with blue velvet birds sewn on the lappets. He 
 was still smoking, and while one maiden held a silver spittoon, 
 shaped like a goblet, and half filled ■v^ith sand, others wiped the 
 perspiration from the royal face, neck, and armpits with perfumed
 
 CHAP. VIII. A COWRIE SCRAMBLE. 169 
 
 handkerchiefs ; while a third beyy cooled his brows with brazen 
 fans. 
 
 A continuous firing was then kept up for upwards of an hour 
 and a half, after which the soldieresses moved off, and the male 
 warriors performed the same evolution for about thirty-five 
 minutes. Ahgo was then sounded, thereby enjoining silence upon 
 the clamourous throng, and the soldiers departed on a circumam- 
 bulation round the palace. The sticks were again laid down, and 
 the king made his appearance, followed by a troop of Akho- 
 susi, carrjing baskets of cowries, strung on grass, and tied up in 
 bundles of forty-eight strings. These were handed to his Majesty,. 
 who threw them hap-hazard on the ground as he walked about 
 over the square. When all were expended a division was made- 
 across the middle of the square by a line of bamboos, and the 
 king, leaving the Amazons on the extreme left, came to the bar- 
 rier and eyed the assembled crowd with a laughing expression. 
 
 He then picked up a head of cowries and pretended to throw 
 it at the troops, upon which a roar of laughter went round tha 
 square. The officers of the Amazons were then called to the 
 front, where they knelt down and took a dirt bath. The male 
 caboceers were then summoned, and they went through the sam& 
 ceremony on their side of the sticks. The king then took up his 
 position under the fetiche-tree, and gave a signal by clapping hi& 
 hands, upon which the whole of the people present — Amazons, 
 soldiers, and civilians — rushed to the cowries and scrambled for 
 them. "When all were cleared off, Ahgo was yelled out, and the 
 scramblers huddled off the field of contest. The king then danced 
 for about a quarter of an hour, accompanied by the Amazons,, 
 guns being fired, and his strong names called out during his 
 terpsichorean performance. He then sent a message to me to 
 ask if I would dance to him, as he had danced to me. I declined 
 the honour on the ground that I was unacquainted with the various 
 figures — an excuse that was graciously accepted by his Majesty. 
 
 A herald then proclaimed that the king was about to drink 
 my health. Every person, myself included, then turned their
 
 170 THE AMAZOXIAX SALUTE. CHAP. viii. 
 
 backs on the king, or buried their faces m their hands. A glass 
 of muscatel was then given me, and when the Amazons raised a 
 <3ry, I tossed it off ; not being permitted to look at my vis-d-ris 
 during the toast. The roar of prayers, guns, and strong names 
 during the ceremony was deafening. 
 
 The sticks were then placed in a line opposite the gate shed, 
 and the soldiers advanced and took up their position before it, 
 the chief officers being in the centre. All kneeled down and 
 rubbed their foreheads in the dust, (the ko-dide) ; after which, 
 the Amazons, who were drawn up in similar fashion round the 
 gate, went through a like performance. His Majesty was 
 reclining on the Pwe, which was covered with mats, and 
 several gorgeous umbrellas were fixed up before him, the handles 
 being dropped into holes dug in the ground by iron crowbars 
 or " diggers." 
 
 He then made a speech, which was afterwards translated by 
 the Mngan (not the Men, vide Burton), the substance of which 
 was, that "he had tried to show the respect he entertained 
 towards me by giving me a public reception at Kana ; but that 
 he thought he would do more than that for his friend, so he had 
 given him a salute at Coomassie." The people applauded by 
 calling out "bloo, b/oo," tapping their lips with their hands during 
 the utterance of the words, after which several speeches were 
 made by various high dignitaries, applauding the decision of the 
 king, and pouring an amount of " blarney " into his royal ears 
 that was truly sickening. 
 
 A number of jesters, with whitewashed faces and limbs, then 
 entertained the company with their buffoonery ; but, except 
 their facility at " making faces,*' in which they emulated any 
 ancient corbel or water-spout, they did not exhibit much of the 
 ludicrous in their performances. Several " W/ienidi/iodotoIi," 
 or singers, then chanted a plaintive ditty, praising the king for 
 his kindness to his friends, extolling his greatness, and ending 
 in a kind of rhapsody in which the most extravagant speeches 
 were made and the most plaintive tunes yelled out. Finally,
 
 CHAP. VIII. THE PALACE GUARDS. 171 
 
 presents of a few heads of cowries were " dashed " to the chief 
 officers, and the king getting up from the Pwe, entered his 
 palace, followed hy the Amazons, and the audience was at length 
 at an end. By this time it was nearly six o'clock, and we 
 hastened to our quarters fully prepared to do justice to the 
 dinner that had been so long awaiting us. 
 
 The rain had been falling in heavy showers since four o'clock, 
 and the aspect of the excited crowd was anything but comfort- 
 able, while the hcau-monde were scarcely better off, since they 
 had to " set " the palavers of the day before they could adjourn 
 to their respective homes. 
 
 As we were busily engaged over our dinner, we heard the 
 gate-keepers of the palace commence their monotonous chant, 
 which is kept up all night, reHeved only by solos on the gong- 
 gong. A party of men watch outside, while a corps of Amazons 
 keeps guard within the palace walls. They are relieved every 
 three hours ; the time being computed by the time occupied in 
 repeating certain set phrases, and in walking round the palace a 
 fixed number of times. When each watch is changed, a herald 
 strikes his gong-gong, and cries out the number of his watch, 
 and afterwards repeats a number of the strong names of the king, 
 with a brief epitome of his powerful exploits. A gun is then 
 fired, and the herald of the succeeding watch takes up the strain. 
 
 Just before daylight the Paniganhuntoh on duty walks round 
 the palace, and gives mouth to a number of the strong names 
 opposite every gate of the palace. This ridiculous ceremony is 
 kept up at every palace wherein the king sleeps. The guards go 
 on duty at sunset, and are known by the bells suspended round 
 their necks, after the fashion of those of the eunuchs. 
 
 At daylight two guns are fired in succession by the " outsiders," 
 wliich are followed by a Kke number from the inside custodians 
 of the palace. Notliing but habit can enable any person to sleep 
 through the noise made by these fellows, who, when not joining 
 in chorus, are gi%'ing vent to a solo in a loud falsetto voice that can 
 be heard far off in the stilhicss of the midnight hours. Dui-ing
 
 172 HE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. chap. viii. 
 
 the continuance of the Custom tlie performances of the patrol are 
 slightly modified, and the watch are on duty day and night. The 
 number of guards is considerably increased, and they are divided 
 into three gangs, one being on duty while the others sleep. 
 
 They are supposed to commence at sunrise, when they 
 begin their monotonous chants, the interludes being fiUed up 
 with a concert of gourd-rattles. This watch lasts for three 
 hours, and is called Ahanirch.^ The next watcb, which lasts 
 till about 11 A.M., is called the Brohun," when the gourds are 
 supplemented by the ki-a-kra, or ring-rattle, and by drums of 
 various kinds. At the conclusion of the Brohun, the Panigan^ 
 watch comes on, during which a full band with gong-gongs 
 charms the ear, with interludes occupied by the WhenuModotoh 
 in chanting the praises and strong names of the king. Noon is 
 marked by a discharge of muskets, and a resume of all the kings 
 of the present dynasty ^v^th their great deeds. After this comes 
 the Wemeh* lasting till about three in the afternoon, the instru- 
 ments being gong-gongs and flutes. The last of the daylight 
 watches is the Ooh-iceh^" when a deafening noise is made by the 
 smaU egg-shaped drums, and at sunset the palace is circumambu- 
 lated by the whole of the night guard. 
 
 The first night-watch lasts three hours, or tiU about 9 p.m. 
 It is known as the Acjhaja^ drum watch from the instrument 
 played during its continuance. At its conclusion a fearful uproar 
 is made by the scrivello horns, called Kjiwen,^ the sound being like 
 that of a chorus of lusty jackasses. At midnight the Akho^ 
 performers make the night hideous with their noises, and they 
 are succeeded about three in the morning by the Paniganafican,^ 
 or early morning gong-gong watch. All the strong names and 
 exploits of the various monai'chs are given out in detail, in a 
 long drawling voice, similar to that in which the Ezann is 
 droned out in Mohammedan countries. At daybreak a volley of 
 
 ^ Ahann'ch, a gourd rattle. - Broliun, a calabash drum. ^ Panigan, a gong- 
 gong. * WcmeJt, a flute. ^ Goh-weh, a drum. * Aghaja, a drum. ' Kpicen, a 
 horn. 8 Akho, a trumpet. ^ Panigan and afman, morning.
 
 CHAP. VIII. VISIT FROM THE JESTERS. 173 
 
 musketry proclaims the advent of the sun, and the Ahamceh 
 relieve the hoarse bards from their tasks. 
 
 On turning out the next morning, I found that Amoosu had 
 been up betimes, and had made a kitchen in a corner of the 
 yard with a screen of mats tied to upright poles stuck in the 
 ground. Here Joe was in his element, for nothing pleased him 
 more than cooking, except, perhaps, eating, and he had already 
 organised a staff of helpers, who were busy chopping up wood, 
 preparing yams, and fetching water for his use. The usual 
 morning stick compliment being paid, I hoped to be able to do 
 a little collecting, but the fates were against me, for scarcely had 
 I finished breakfast than several jesters made their appearance. 
 
 These Ah-hun-da-toh brought me a present of yams, oranges, 
 and such trifles, and stayed nearly an hour grinning at each 
 other, making barbarous puns and obscene jokes, twitching 
 various parts of their bodies and drawing in their stomachs as 
 though they were mere wind bags. One would pretend to be 
 .suddenly struck deaf and dumb, and the by-play that ensued 
 was such as would probably amuse a European child ten years 
 of age. Another then produced a filthy mass of cankie from the 
 capacious bag or ahpetoholoh he carried beneath his left arm. 
 This pudding he commenced to devour, dirt and all, and did not 
 cease for an instant until the w^hole had disappeared in the 
 cavernous depths of his stomach. Notwithstanding this " feed " 
 he immediately set to at the bellows play, and drew in his venter, 
 until I thought he would snap in the middle. 
 
 While this fun was going on, his companions sat gravely on their 
 little stools, and pretended to smoke bits of yam stuck on the end 
 of a stick, vigorously expectorating during the operation. One 
 of the Klan amused me by taking notes of everything he saw. 
 He picked up a stick and a withered leaf, and made his memo- 
 randa upon it, strewing sand over it " to dry the ink " after- 
 wards. I dismissed them wath a glass of grog all round, and 
 they went forth to give their companions an exaggerated account 
 of the bounty they had received at my hands.
 
 174 THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. ciiAP. vill. 
 
 After these buffoons had' departed, I set out to pay a visit to 
 the prince, especially wifti the idea of asking his pennission to 
 he excused from a regular attendance at the court, so that I 
 might employ myself in making a collection of the fauna of the 
 neighbourhood. Oui' way led us through maize plantations, and 
 luxui'iant crops of sweet potatoes which were just coming into 
 the market, each having its jDroper fetiche guard. 
 
 On arriving at the prince's residence, I was startled at hearing 
 the notes of a bugle, and on asking what it meant, I was told 
 that the Governor of the Portuguese fort at "NVhydah had been 
 summoned to the capital, and that upon his refusing, he had 
 been brought up by sheer force. When he found that go he 
 must, he determiaed to overwhelm me with his military display ; 
 and accordingly started a bodyguard of six Congo soldiers, under 
 the command of a mulatto corporal, a flag-bearer, and a bugler. 
 This force he was quite certain would be amply sufficient to 
 raise him in the estimation of the king, the news of whose grand 
 reception of myself had reached A^Tiydah. How he succeeded 
 the sequel va\l disclose. 
 
 As the governor had only arrived about an hour, I would not 
 intrude my presence upon him in the hurry of unpacking, but 
 sent Ghugalah with a complimentary message to him, asking 
 the favour of his companj' to dinner in the evening. My 
 messenger returned in high dudgeon, as the governor had not 
 only refused to receive his message, but had ordered him off the 
 premises, a gross breach of etiquette, as Ghugalah carried the 
 royal stick. Almost as soon as he had delivered his message, a 
 " stick " arrived from the prince, who presented his compliments 
 to me, and begged to apologize for the governor's rudeness, of 
 which he had just been told. He said that the king had ordered 
 him, the Governor, to Abomey, because he had boasted that 
 no " savage " could ever make him go an}^where against his will. 
 The prince had just started to ascertain his father's wishes with 
 respect to the Governor, who was waiting to see him ; but 
 I was assured that no sooner had the prince finished his palaver
 
 CHAP. VIII. VISIT FEOM HAHAXSU. 175 
 
 ■with the king, than he would come on and see me, and that 
 the governor must wait. 
 
 On my return to my quarters I found a uumher of men cutting 
 down the long grass and levelling the road. They were under the 
 charge of a petty officer, who saluted me with the usual ^'atyan- 
 guan" — are you well tliis morning. He said that he had received 
 orders from the prince to make a good road between his house 
 and mine ; for that since he hoped to have frequent conversations 
 with me, the road between our respective dwellings must neces- 
 sarily be kept clean. 
 
 On arrival at home, as there was every appearance of a heavy 
 storm, I overhauled my stock of presents, and served out the 
 respective allotments to the different recipients. These consisted 
 of cloth and liqueurs, and, assisted by Amoosu, I doled out a 
 sample of each for the king, the prince, the Adonejan, and the 
 English mother. This matter over, I had nothing to do but sit 
 and watch the women collecting water in huge earthenware 
 vessels, which were set out beneath the eaves of the various 
 houses. Most of my people were taking advantage of the heavy 
 rain to wash their clothes and persons, and many in j)ir>is 
 naturalihus revelled in a strong lather from head to foot. 
 
 About tlii'ee o'clock in the afternoon a messenger arrived, to 
 inform me that Ilahansu was coming to pay me a \asit. In a 
 few minutes he arrived,. being protected from the rain by an 
 immense straw hat, the brims of which were supported by an 
 attendant on each side. He again apologised for his absence 
 from home when I called in the morning, but told me that his 
 duties at the palace frequently obliged him to leave his house at 
 a few moments' warning, but that in future, if I would give him 
 previous notice of my intention to honour him with a visit, he 
 would endeavour to be at home to receive me. He was con- 
 siderably interested in several articles in my possession, such as a 
 compass, barometer, and other scientific instruments, but was 
 particularly struck with my gun, a breech-loader, which he was 
 desirous of firing off. I therefore loaded it for him, much to his
 
 176 THE AMAZONIAN SALUTE. chap. viii. 
 
 astonisliineiit putting on neither priming nor percussion cap, and 
 Tianding it to Hni lie fired it off, the bullets taking effect in the 
 swish wall opposite. He remarked that my powder was very 
 much better than his, for his was a long time " before it talked," 
 -while mine "talked one time," meaning that the ignition of my 
 powder was more instantaneous than that of his. 
 
 He said that his father Gelele knew he was coming to see me, 
 and had given him particular orders to see that I was supplied 
 with every comfort the country would afford. 
 
 He also told me that the king wished to speak to me about 
 some great palaver with reference to the English Government, of 
 •which he could not talk with trade men ; and that he was very 
 glad I had come to Dahomey, as I had given him the opportunity 
 he had so long waited for, of talking the matter over with a 
 person whose position was such as to be unbiassed by any com- 
 mercial interests. 
 
 He told me that when the governor was received, I would see 
 the difference in the feeling the king entertained towards him 
 and myseK ; and that the reception was only given in respect to 
 the position of the governor, and not by any means a private 
 mark of esteem. The next day I received a notice from the 
 prince that the Annual Customs would begin in five days, and 
 that the king particularly wished mo to sec the commencement 
 •of the state pageant, and that after a short stay I should be 
 " passed " and permitted to return to Whydah. 
 
 I was considerably disappointed at hearing this. Not a word 
 had been said about the guns I had brought up, and the only 
 answer I could obtain to my repeated soHcitations for permission 
 to collect a few insects was : "The king puts the whole kingdom 
 in your hand, and you may do what you like mth it ; but he is 
 afraid if you go about the bush some harm wiU happen to you, 
 and the white people at Whydah will blame him for permitting 
 you to run any risk whatever while you remained the guest of 
 the king." I don't think it is possible for any man to keep his 
 temper long in a country where such excuses as these are given.
 
 CHAP. viii. DETAINED BY THE KING. 177 
 
 I do not douLt for a moment that tlie king meant to do his best 
 to please me ; but his ignorance of the value of time made him 
 indifi'erent as to whether I began my entomological research 
 to-day or in a month's time. Truly in Dahomey Nullum tenqnis 
 occurrit regi. 
 
 Feeling sure that it would be some weeks at least before I 
 should be allowed to depart, I determined tirer le (liable jyar la 
 queue, and to make the most of the sight-seeing I was forced to 
 be witness of, and to rely upon some benefit that might accrue to 
 me from the great palaver of which the prince had spoken 
 to recoup me for lost time.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. 
 
 Origin of the customs — Of two kinds — Tlie Akhosutanun — The Khwetanun — 
 The Eyeo custom— General outline of the customs— The human sacrifices — 
 "Wanted, a doctor" — My prescriptions — Richards — Visit from the 
 Adonejan. 
 
 First Section of the King's So-Si/i Custom. — Commencement of the So-Sin 
 Custom — Clotho — The Akhosu-sosin-bekpah, or victim shed for the 
 king — The human victims — Gezu's tent — Bo-fetiche — The Agasunno and 
 his assistants— Feeding the gods — Victims for the Bush king and the 
 people — A plea for Dahomey— Umbrella heraldry — The Gezu-yeho— Seizure 
 of the horses by the Sogan — Eeception of the governor — The " strangers " 
 — Promotions in the army — New drummers — Unveiling of the Bo-fetiche 
 — A ghostly spectator — Gelele's speech with his father — Leopard wives — 
 Oblation to Gezu — Distribution of rum. 
 
 Secotul Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Curious superstition respecting 
 dogs — Procession of feticheers — The ceremony at the Didoh — Return of 
 the priests with the sacred water. 
 
 Thk interval that elapsed between the incidents related in the 
 preceding chapter and the commencement of the Customs may 
 be advantageously filled up in giving the reader a brief outline of 
 their meaning and derivation. 
 
 The word is an Anglicised form of the French coutiimc, the 
 signification of which is " a general habit." The " Customs " may 
 therefore be defined to be " certain state ceremonies, the per- 
 formance of which has become imperative through long usage." 
 
 The Customs are of two kinds : the Grand Customs, which 
 are only performed after the death of a sovereign, when his 
 successor has become firmly seated on the stool of his ancestors ; 
 and the Annual Customs, which take place every autumn, and 
 are far less imposing than the celebrated Grand Customs. The 
 Annual Customs are also of a dual nature, one being held every
 
 CHAP. IX. THE GRAND CUSTOMS. 179 
 
 alternate year. The one is tlie So-sin, or Horse-tie Custom, and 
 the other the Attoh, or Platform Custom. 
 
 The Grand Customs appear to have dated far back in the history 
 of the kingdom of Alladah, as the heralds have several traditions 
 of the splendour of the Grand Customs made in honour of the old 
 kings of Alladah. They appear to have consisted of the same 
 ceremonies as those practised at the Annual Customs, but on a 
 far grander scale, and combining the So-sin and the Attoh or 
 Platform Custom of alternate years into a single ceremony. They 
 are called " Akhosutanun," "the king's head thing," to distin- 
 guish them from tlie "Khwetanun," i.e., " yearly head thing," as 
 the Annual Customs are named. In Dalzel's ' History,' a vague 
 account is given of the Akhosutanun, celebrated in honour of 
 !Mpengala by his son Agongolu in the year 1791. In Burton's 
 account of Dahomey, he gives an extract from a letter by the 
 Hev. P. W. Bernasko, detailing an account of the Grand Customs 
 in honour of Gezu, the predecessor of the reigning king ; but 
 Burton very properly calls attention to the palpable untruths 
 which iire there set forth, and my personal knoAvledgc of that 
 missionary is such as to lead me to believe just as much as I 
 pleased, and no more. From accounts given me of the Grand 
 Customs, I feel justified in my statement as above, that they arc 
 nothing more than an enlargement upon the Ivlnvotanun. 
 
 These Annual Customs are of comparatively recent origin. It 
 appears that when Akabah died, his son Agajah was not content 
 with the Grand Custom he made to his father's manes, but in the 
 year succeeding the Akhosutanum of Akabah he held a sc(|uel 
 to them, and was so delighted Avith the effect, that he instituted 
 the Annual Customs to be held every year at Abomey. After 
 the Eyeos were finally expelled from Kana by Gezu, the annual 
 Eyeo customs were established by that monarch. This custom 
 usually takes place about June, after the return of the armies 
 from the war-path. The Eyeo Custom has but one distinguishing 
 feature, a brief epitome of which is as follows. A number of 
 gallows are erected in the Uhon-nukon, and to the cross-pieces 
 small wooden stools are attached. On a certain day a number of
 
 180 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. CHAP. IX 
 
 mcn-cviminals, or aged prisoners of war, arc dressed in garments 
 similar to those of the conquered Eyeos, and, after being killed 
 by blows on the head, are lashed to the stools. These victims 
 are intended to bring the remembrance of the deliverance of the 
 Dahomans from the hands of the Eyeos by Gezu. They have 
 calabashes containing maize, yams, and other food in their hands, 
 and some are fixed up by the side of a dead goat or fowl,'*to show 
 that once the Dahomans were obliged to bring food to the Eyeos, 
 but now the Eyeos, although dead, are obliged to supply the 
 wants of their conquerors. These bodies are exposed for about a 
 week, by which time they have become too ofiensive for even a 
 Dahoman stomach ; the unfortunates are then taken down and 
 buried without the town. I cannot understand Mr. Duncan's 
 statement, that the bodies he mentions had been exposed two 
 moons and a half, and were dried like leather, since putrefaction 
 would have utterly destroyed them long before the expiration of 
 that time, supposing the vultures had remained quiet, and the 
 Dahomans have no knowledge of the art of embalming or other- 
 "wiso preserving the bodies of their dead. 
 
 One of the principal features at the Annual Customs is the 
 payment of the taxes to the king by every person in the land, 
 from tlio Ningan in the capital to the lowest free man in the 
 villages. At these times all great palavers arc settled, punish- 
 ments arc inflicted upon those guilty of heinous crimes, and 
 rewards conferred upon the meritorious. The division of the 
 prize-money, the produce of the sales of the captives and animals 
 taken in the wars of the past year, is also effected, and various 
 degrees of rank are conferred upon tlie junior officers, promotion 
 by purchase being unknown in the Dahoman army. At this 
 time also the Amazons, whom the king may select as wives for 
 his favourites, are bestowed upon the lucky bridegrooms, and 
 several royal princesses are usually married to some of the 
 principal officers of state. New laws are passed, old ones re- 
 pealed, when necessary, and all petitions are heard. 
 
 At these times also the retinues of the deceased monarchs are 
 supplied with new recruits ; for the Dahomans believe that after
 
 CHAP. IX. EPITOME OF THE ANNUAL CUSTOMS. 181 
 
 death a person exists in the other world in a rank similar to 
 that occupied hy the deceased before death. Consequently, it 
 is necessary to supply the dead monarchs with slaves ; besides 
 wliich, the continual sending of messengers to them by their 
 successors in this world, keeps the departed sovereigns in a happy 
 state of mind, as to whether their greatness is forgotten on earth, 
 and they are induced to give the living monarch the benefit of 
 their ghostly ad\'ice. This in a great measure is the cause of the 
 continuance of the human sacrifices at the Customs; since every 
 Dahoman believes that, if they were discontinued, the glory of 
 the kingdom would depart, because the old kings would be so 
 vexed with their representative who refused their accustomed 
 post-ohifal honours, that they would give the enemies of the 
 country the wise counsel they were wont to give to their suc- 
 cessor. The victims who are exhibited in the markets are not 
 messengers, but criminals and troublesome captives, who are held 
 up as a terror to all evil-doers. 
 
 The Annual Customs may be divided into the following 
 
 sections : — 
 
 The Eyeo Custoini. 
 
 The So-sin Custom. 
 
 A. For the King. 
 Section I. — The So-sin-gbeh; or. Horse- tie to-day. 
 Section II. — The Agasunno-jaga-sin-tansi-gbeh-Nesu ; or, the 
 Agasunno will go and fetch ghost- water for Nesu to-day. 
 
 Section III. — The Avo-usu-gbe ; or, we will show a change 
 (number) of cloths to-day. 
 
 Section lY. — The Bonugan nun-kpon gbe diyeh ; or, the ojficers 
 will look at a marvellous sight to-day ; or, 
 
 Bonugan owu-chyoh uzu 'gbe — the officers will change cloths 
 to-day. 
 Section V. — The Mino-kyanan'gbe ; or, the Amazons will dance 
 to-day. 
 
 Section VI. — The Zan-men-huwu-wouh; or, the night for the 
 ominous human sacrifice.
 
 182 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. IX. 
 
 Section VII. — The Menaiye-kpon mcnlmwu Uhunglo akhi ; or, 
 we will go to look at the sacrifices in the Uhunglo market to-day. 
 
 B. For Addokpon, the BuaJi King. 
 
 Section I. — The Nun kpon gbe Addokpon ; or, we shall look 
 at the custom for Addokpon to-day. 
 
 Section II. — The Akhosusi zohn gbe ; or, the Amazons will 
 march round to-day. 
 
 Section III. — Addokpon-nun-kpon gbe-diyeh; or, the people 
 will look at a grand sight for Addokpon to-day. 
 
 Section IV.— Addugba-ho-gbe ; or, the Addugba drum will be 
 played to-day. 
 
 Section V. — Zan men-huwu wonh Addokpon ; or, the night 
 for the ominous human sacrifices for Addokpon. 
 
 Section VI. — Addokpon Dang-be ; Addokpon will fine to-day. 
 
 The Attoh Custom. 
 
 A. For Gelele. 
 Section I. — Bonugan Kayon gbe ; the captains will dance to-day. 
 Section II. — Gelele Akhosu Kayan gbe ; Gelele and the princes 
 will dance to-day. 
 
 Section III. — Hunto-Kayon gbe ; the drummers will dance 
 to-day. 
 
 Section IV. — Men sane Attoh gbe, Gelele; the victims will be 
 thrown from the Attoh to-day for Gelele. 
 
 Section V. — Mine Zohn-wa gbe ; the ^Vmazons will walk in 
 procession to-day. 
 
 Section VI. — Meu huwu gbe ; or, the Men's victim to-day. 
 Section VII. — Alloh gomojch gbe ; the Attoh will be broken 
 to-day. 
 
 B. For Addolqjon, the Bush King. 
 
 The Firing for the Attoh Custom. 
 
 The Sin Kwain Custom. 
 
 The Anlin Custom. 
 
 The Payjient of the Tribute. 
 
 The Azan gbeh on Gun Custom.
 
 CHAP. IX. DAHOMAX TATIENTS. 183 
 
 Mais revenons a uoa moufons. On the day succeeding tliat on 
 which I received the intimation that I was expected to stay to 
 see the Customs, a man was hrought to me with his arm com- 
 pletely shattered by the bursting of his gun. I declined to have 
 anything to do with the case, for I could plainly see that he 
 was rapidly sinking from loss of blood, and if he had died while 
 under my hands I might have been accused of killing him. 
 Caution is always necessary in such instances, and lucky was I 
 in keeping myself clear of the case, for the poor wretch died ten 
 minutes after he left my house. Setting dislocated joints or 
 broken, bones, or strapping up knife wounds, is quite another 
 matter, since the bystanders see what you are doing, and they all 
 I'espect a surgeon. Savages look upon all Europeans as doctors, 
 and I have had the most ridiculous cases brought to me for treat- 
 ment. One man who had received a bullet in his head nine 
 years before, which remained fixed in his skull, and had caused 
 a swelling as large as a good-sized loaf, was brought in as quite a 
 favourable case. Dwarfs, hunchbacks, palzied old people of both 
 sexes, men with withered arms, the blind, the deaf, the dumb, 
 and the lame, all came to be cured. Others came, with all sorts 
 of internal complaints, the description of which usually consisted 
 in squeezing the stomach with the arms and rolling the eyes from 
 side to side. One fellow was asked to put out his tongue, and 
 ever after I always knew a patient from afar off, by his coming 
 along with his tongue hanging out several inches from his lips. 
 
 The worst of the matter was, that one and all refused to depart 
 without some medicine. How I longed for a hogshead of strong 
 Epsom salts, flanked by another of tartar emetic. No savage 
 has any faith in any internal medicine unless it acts as a strong 
 purgative or a violent emetic, save only when it is made of some- 
 *thing that will burn the throat as it goes down. This last opinion 
 saved my reputation as a learned leech. Fortunately I possessed 
 several bottles of curry-powder with which, combined with the 
 carbolic acid and camphor I used for entomological purposes, 
 I felt my fame secure. "Whenever a patient came wdth any
 
 184 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 internal disease, — and nearly all came in the hope of my prescrib- 
 ing rum, — the following was my method of procedure. Taking out 
 my watch I would feel the patient's pulse, pull his tongue, tweak 
 his nose, or otherwise pull him about, my face as grave as an 
 undertaker's during the operation. With a shake of my head I 
 would then consult a huge Johnson's Dictionary, ever and again 
 giving the patient a fresh overhauliug. That being satisfactory, 
 out would come my curry-powder, a teaspoonful of which, duly 
 seasoned wdth a di'op of carbolic acid or a grain of camphor, and 
 well stirred up, invariably convinced the lucky recipient that he 
 Avas swallowing a certain " cure all." A small portion of pow- 
 dered chalk, wrapped up in a bit of paper, with instructions to 
 take it in four days convinced the patient of the wonderful skill 
 of the doctor, and away he would go to his own delight and my 
 reHef ; for without such stratagem I should never get rid of the 
 suppliants, who would load me with presents of yams, fruit, &c., 
 to propitiate my goodwill, since they always laid the refusal to 
 prescribe to a want of presents or a dislike to the patient. Old 
 sores, withered arms, lameness of years' standing, and all chronic 
 rheumatics were at once cured by the application of a cathoKcon 
 composed of flour stained with Prussian blue or gamboge and 
 smeared on the back of a newspaper fragment. Truly faith 
 works wonders in the cure of bodies as well as of souls ! 
 
 In the afternoon a wretched object, with a scrap of coarse 
 cloth, round the waist, was ushered into my presence. On looking 
 up it addressed me in good English. The apparition proved to 
 be Edward Jackson Richards, a native of Sierra Leone, who had 
 been taken by the King's people seven years before. It appears 
 that a slaver was waiting at Whydah to take her liWng freight 
 on board, and information was given to an English man-of-war 
 at Lagos, which led to the capture of the vessel with her full 
 complement of slaves. Hichards and two others were suspected 
 of being the tale-tellers. The other two, fearful of the vengeance of 
 the Avogan, escaped to Lagos. Ilicliards,however, who declared to me 
 that he was perfectly innocent in the matter, stayed at the factory
 
 CHAP. IX. CAPTIVITY OF E. J. EICHAEDS. 185 
 
 unsuspectingly, and tlie affair blew over. Six months afterwards 
 he was called to the gate of the factory at dark, and on his 
 appearance hurried off to Agauli, and from thence was taken into 
 the interior, and put in charge of the Meu, the predecessor of the 
 present one. During the whole of his captivity he had not been 
 harshly treated, but merely denied all access to the coast. He 
 had applied to two Europeans who had been up to the King, 
 Burton and Mr. Lyall, but these gentlemen had been unable to do 
 anything in the matter. I promised to use any influence I might 
 l)ossess in obtaining his liberty, and in the interim supplied him 
 with a suit of clothes, and gave him permission to board and 
 lodge in my house. 
 
 He was then in charge of the Adonejan, and slept in a little 
 hut at the gates of his house. He was permitted to stay mth 
 me all day, but had to report himself to his janitors at sundown. 
 
 The same day Amoosu was sent to "VVhydah in charge of the 
 mortars, which the King would have stored in the palace, but he 
 feared the natural curiosity of the women would not fail to 
 discover them, and in that case the secret would soon ooze out. 
 The old man started at 11 p.m., strict secresy being observed with 
 regard to his departure. 
 
 On Monday, September 4th, a musical hubbub at my gate 
 intimated to me that something unusual was on the tapis. This 
 proved to be the private band of the Adonejan, who had called 
 to pay me a complimentary visit. 
 
 Before a visitor to the King has been received no person is 
 allowed to call upon him, and after he has been introduced to the 
 King, if it so please that functionary, he can " taboo" his visitor's 
 house to all the rabble, who otherwise would annoy him by their 
 repeated complimentary visits ; the true respect being shown to 
 the rum-bottle, and not the owner of it. 
 
 When, however, any high officer of state is about to honour a 
 visitor with his company his retinue is sure to be considerably 
 augmented by every idler who can anyhow smuggle lumself into 
 the company.
 
 ]Sfi TJIE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 This was the case with the Adonejan's escort, which was 
 swelled to three times its usual complement by these cunaUle volun- 
 teers. I douLt not the fat old fellow secretly acquiesced in their 
 enrolment in his " tail," since it gave his escort quite a for- 
 midable look by reason of its increased numbers. I produced 
 brandy and liqueurs, while Bukau did the honours among the 
 chief attendants Avith rum — well diluted to prevent any risk of 
 headache. 
 
 The Adonejan inspected my instruments, and, as usual, the 
 compass attracted considerable attention. Before going he 
 requested me to procure a gold crucifix for him larger than the one 
 he usually wore round his bull-neck. This emblem of Christianity 
 appears to tickle the fancy of the Dahomans, for I saw chameleons, 
 lions, bii'ds, and other animals fixed crucifix-fashion to little gold 
 or silver crosses, and worn with considerable ostentation by the 
 fortunate possessors. 
 
 THE "SO-SIN CBEH;" OR, "HORSE TIE TO-DAY."— THE FIRST 
 SECTION OF THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. 
 
 At length the long-wished-for day arrived on which the Annual 
 Customs for 1871 were to commence. Busy preparations were 
 commenced at dayhght on the morning of September 5th, the 
 hammock-men begging, borrowing, or stealing any greasy material 
 with which to make their bodies shine like polished boot-leather. 
 The soldiers in my retinue were furbishing up their arms and 
 putting on gaudy chokoto formed for the most part of striped or 
 plaid cotton cloth. Every fetiche that could be obtained was 
 placed in the haversack each soldier carries, while their abagan, 
 or iron armlets, of which some wore a dozen, were brightened by 
 scrubbing with sand. Todofueoh and other urchins, the pipe- 
 bearers of the petty officers in command, appeared for the first 
 time in a respectable suit of clothing, a square yard of blue baft 
 and a few beads round the neck, while those who could obtain it 
 prided themselves upon a fillet of pink and white string titje 
 below the knee. ry
 
 CHAP. TX. ro:\[MEXCEMENT OF THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. 187 
 
 A newly washed hammock, with a freshly scraped polo and 
 " fixings," awaited me at the gate, and the Khocjitduli^ or hack 
 yard was filled with a jahhcring throng disjiuting as to who were 
 to accompany me and who were to remain at home. On these 
 occasions the voice of Joe was usually heard ahove the mingled 
 sounds of men, women, and children all talking and shouting at 
 once. AVhat on earth the fellow could find to put himself in a 
 passion ahout I never could imagine ; hut, whenever there was an 
 opportunity for a row, Joseph hegan his complaint. The besis of 
 the fun was that he never appeared to know what his grievance 
 was, and addressed his voluble jargon of Ffon, Ga and Fantee to 
 anyone who might happen to be opposite him. Joe certainly 
 was a " cure." 
 
 All being in readiness, I started for the Uhonnukon before the 
 Coomassie main gate, the Akwaji. On arriving at the south- 
 eastern angle of the palace I dismounted, and the hammock was 
 reared up against the wall, and the hammock-men, lighting their 
 azoqueh, prepared to do nothing but loll about in the shade until 
 my return. Egblie-egbah usually commenced a dance on his 
 own account as soon as my back was turned, throwing his limbs 
 about in the normal fashion. 
 
 Preceded by Glmgalah and Bukau, both of whom carried the 
 iron-ringed "latti " so much in vogue, I walked across the square 
 followed by my chair-carrier and about a score other attendants. 
 
 Close to the thin-leaved fetiche tree opposite the Bwekonuhun, 
 a large white umbrella had been set up, the pole being inserted 
 into a hole in the ground, which was dug with a crowbar and the 
 earth scooped out by hand. The space round this kiceho was 
 kept clear of intruders by a hunchbacked policeman, who 
 rejoiced in the title of Boscku-ugbeh, evidently a corruption 
 of the French, and our chairs were placed in the shade thus 
 provided ; the stick-bearers squatting in front, while the rest of 
 -Qy people took up positions in the rear. 
 
 The ground opposite the gate was swept clean and tAvo immense 
 
 , soh truncheon altars, gorgeous in new paint, had been erected
 
 188 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 on each side of the palace gate. In the centre of each of those 
 hundlcs an Ascii was stuck. This curious offering is best described 
 by imagining an inverted extinguisher, or the receptacle of a 
 common naphtha lamp, to be fixed on the extremity of a long iron 
 rod. Some are double, and all the principal ones are decorated 
 by strings of cowries, as usual, copiously smeared with fowl's 
 blood. In front of these altars M'ere two heaps of sand moistened 
 with holy 'Nesn water, which will hereafter be the resting-places 
 of *several human heads. 
 
 The Adanzan was gay in a brand new flag, while the holy 
 trees near the Bwekonuhun also rejoiced in fresh earthenware, 
 containing a supply of Logba-nundudu, or food for Legba. 
 Round each trunk was a piece of sacred rag, called an Avo, and 
 above this the leafy girdle of the Aizan fetiche completed the 
 arrangements. Under a tattered umbrella of white baft, that 
 rivalled in the irregularity of its ribs that of any London coster- 
 monger woman, sat a priestess, spinning the sacred yarn that is 
 used to thread the beads which encircle the various fetiche 
 deities. She was dressed entirely in white cloth, and a thick 
 towel-like affair was bound round her forehead. 
 
 The Pwe shed Avas lengthened, and the pillars were swathed 
 in turkey-red cotton cloth, while the raised floor was clean 
 swept and covered Avith mats, and a broad line of white sand 
 was sprinkled along the front of it. On the outer side of this, 
 the line of bamboos shut off" the ladies of the palace from 
 the sterner sex. To the left of the Pwe a shed was erected 
 called the Akhosu sosin bckpah, or the King's So-sin shed. This 
 building was about 80 feet long, of the usual barn type. The 
 eaves were supported by thirty tree-trunks, stained red and white, 
 from the tops of which rafters of palmyra connected the two 
 sides. The eaves were thickly hung with tobacco leaves, bottles 
 of gin, and liqueurs (empty), demijohns of rum, and bunches of 
 thunder-shrub ; while between each post a head of cowries was 
 ostentatiously displayed, with a string of dollars hanging from it. 
 The roof was covered with a cloth formed of broad stripes of
 
 THE KING'S SO-SIN SHED. 
 
 189 
 
 blood-red, wliite, and Llack cotton cloth, the colours beinr^ 
 separated by a narrow border of blue checked calico. On the 
 white stripes three black elephants with green ears and yellow 
 tusks, pointing downwards ! were displayed ; the animals being 
 cut out of cloth and sewn on the white ground, — all the needle- 
 work of the Amazons. 
 
 On the top of the ridge a wooden elephant was fixed, the 
 fac-simile of the figures on the cloth, while ten Tower muskets 
 
 THE SO-SIN PAVILIONS. 
 
 were laid across the ridge on each side of the elephant. In front 
 of this "Elephant tent" the ground was raised a few inches, 
 and beaten hard, and a row of eight four-pounder ship's guns 
 were placed before it. This yard was fenced off by a row of 
 bamboo poles and the usual grass rope, and the enclosure was 
 tabooed to all but the King. 
 
 Seated on the ground beneath this shod was a row of twelve 
 victims dressed in white shirts with scarlet trimmings, and a
 
 196 THE so-six crsTo:\r. chap. ix. 
 
 bloo(l-rc(l heart on the left breast and riglit shoulder. Their 
 heads were covered with long white caps of the "tom-fool" 
 shape, and were turned up with blue baft, while a " dogoh " or 
 loin-cloth of coloured cottou completed the costume appropriated 
 to these unfortunates. 
 
 They were bound to a row of posts running down the centre 
 of the shed, their legs being passed round the posts, and their 
 ankles tied together, while their wrists were lashed in like manner. 
 Their necks were encircled with grass halters, which were con- 
 nected with their wrists and ankles, and the whole led back and 
 secured to stakes driven into the floor. 
 
 Above these, seated on low stools fastened to the rafters, were 
 four others, dressed similarly to those on the ground floor, but in 
 addition to being lashed they were also gagged. The gag is a 
 piece of stick about eight inches long, wrapped round with 
 cotton. To the centre of this a forked piece of wood is attached, 
 one prong resting on the toiigue, while the other presses the ri^of 
 of the mouth. The gags in the present instance wei'e merely 
 artificial, as no person could survive the application of the real 
 instrument for any length of time. Not a sound can be uttered 
 wben it is fixed ; and although I have been in close proximity to 
 nearly a score of victims, I never heard a moan from one of them. 
 
 Contrary to what some good people in England would have 
 us believe, these morituri were in the best of spirits, the un- 
 gaggcd laughing and talking with each other, while their 
 muzzled brethren were taking matters just as apathetically, 
 swaying their heads from side to side in time to the music 
 of the bands. Burton says that their spirits are kept up by 
 the knowledge that the king always spared the lives of some of 
 the victims, and that each was buoyed up with the hope that he 
 would be one of the lucky ones ; but I don't think that had 
 anything to do with their demeanour, for I have seen men 
 laughing who knew their heads would be stuck at the palace gate 
 within five minutes. The dull brain of the negro is too sluggish 
 to permit any future fate to influence his passions for good or evil.
 
 CHAP. IX. THE SO-SIX VICTIMS. 191 
 
 Indifference stolid in the extreme marks the whole race, and 
 even the near approach of death is not sufficient to rouse them 
 from their natural stupor. Every writer has remarked this iioii- 
 dialance in the African. 
 
 These victims were confined in the shed during the day, and 
 released when the court was dismissed. An attendant waited 
 on each, who supplied them with water, food, and other neces- 
 saries, and who continually waved a bundle of bamboo splints 
 resembling a butcher's " fly broom," to drive off the tormenting 
 insects. 
 
 To the riglit of this shed a small conical hut was erected, the 
 roof swathed in red and white striped cloth, and containing a 
 sample of tobacco, liqueurs, and cowries tied in bunches round 
 the eaves. This was the tent for the late King, Gezu, and was 
 an illustration of the Dahoman idea, le roi est mart, rice le roi ; 
 for this little hut was erected to show that although Gezu was 
 supposed to be dead, he was still alive to the people, and if he 
 chose to return to his country and loving subjects, he would find 
 a shed ready prepared for his reception. 
 
 To the left of this little hut a tall structure with a cross-piece 
 near the top, like a telegraph pole, swathed in mats attracted 
 my attention. This was a Bo-fetiche guarding the Custom, and 
 was unveiled when the proper time arrived. It was surrounded 
 by a mat screen, the supporting poles of which had white flags 
 fastened to them. Opposite the Adanzan a group of twenty 
 fetiche men were dancing round a huge umbrella, tattered en rhjle^ 
 beneath whose shade were the loci tenentes of the Agasunno, 
 the fetiche priest who takes charge of the Custom. A row of 
 Asen of various shapes was spread out before the priests, and 
 several ugly little deities were fixed in the ground by sliort 
 handles ; the most noticeable of Avhich were, a squat little black 
 imp with his face stuck full of scarlet seeds, as though it were 
 breaking out with a virulent small-pox, and a pink image carved 
 ill wood in a kneeli'ig posture, with clenched fists before it in a 
 praying attitude. Before each of these divinities an oblation of
 
 192 THE SO-STX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 rum was poured out, mid a few pinches of cankie or other food 
 were placed in the centre of a little ring of farinha and palm 
 oil. When these offerings were set out, a number of boys, the 
 neophytes of the priestcraft, were called in, who greedily devoured 
 the sacred food. No doubt the gods were as much benefited by 
 it, as though they themselves had eaten it. 
 
 On the southern side of the square a long shed was erected 
 between the Adanzan and the Men's house. This also was an 
 open barn about a hundred feet long, fifty feet wide, and about 
 the same distance to the ridge. The ground within was beaten 
 hard, and the roof was covered with a white cloth ynt\\ four 
 transverse stripes of plaid cloth, the pattern being that kno^\1l 
 as of the McDufi" clan. 
 
 At the eastern end of this a tall square hut stood prominently 
 forward, the posts supporting the roof being at least twenty feet 
 high. Half-way up the posts a series of palmyra rafters sup- 
 ported a grating, and the eaves of both the long shed and the 
 tower were ornamented with bunches of thunder-shrub. 
 
 On the raised floor of the tower six victims were seated in the 
 long basketwork frames that arc used to carry loads on the head. 
 They were pseudo -gagged, and their hands and ankles bound 
 together ; while the whole compound of man and basket was 
 securely lashed to the rafters. Beneath these wretched beings a 
 further group of six were bound to the supporting posts of the 
 roof. In the long barn were twenty-two condemned, bound 
 similarly to the others, but not gagged. Those in the tower had 
 blue patches on their gowns, while the shed-victims had square 
 ornaments of chequered cotton-lilce bed-ticking ; otherwise their 
 dress was similar to that of the victims in the " Elephant shed." 
 The sacrifices in the tower were appropriated to the Bush king, 
 Addokpon ; while those in the long bam-like structure were 
 national property. These unfortunate beings, who were fated to 
 perform such a fearful part in the national drama, were all 
 criminals, having been guilty of crimes, the punishment of which, 
 according to the national code, was death. A serious miscon-
 
 CHAP. IX. THE BUSH-KING'S VICTIMS. 193 
 
 ception lias arisen with respect to tliese victims; some reports 
 having gone so far as to say that the king picks out the required 
 numher from his subjects haphazard, or at the best chooses those 
 whose influence might be supposed to be getting too great to be 
 permitted in the country of a despotic tyrant. 
 
 Other accounts state that the victims are prisoners of war. 
 That some of them may be such is very j)robable, and indeed 
 whenever any enemy who has been particularly obnoxious has 
 the ill-luck to fall into the hands of the monarch, he is generally 
 made a public example of; but with these few exceptions the 
 victims sacrificed at the Customs are criminals. Special mes- 
 sengers to the dead are often captives ; but these ghostly postmen 
 are liable to be dispatched at any time of the year ; though of 
 course so important an occasion as the Customs demands a 
 more frequent correspondence with Kutomen, the Dahoman spirit 
 world, than at other times. Much of the horror of this bar- 
 barous practice is therefore taken ofi" when we consider that 
 nearly all the capital punishments inflicted in a year are carried 
 out during the Customs ; and I doubt not that if we were to 
 hang all our murderers at one period of the year — say at 
 Christmas — the list would be as long a one as that of Dahomey. 
 How long is it since human crania were actually to be seen on 
 Temple Bar ? Besides this, the monarch imagines that he is 
 performing a truly filial duty to his father by supplying him 
 with these'recruits to his ghostly household. 
 
 But let us get on with the account. The square was filled 
 with a dense crowd of men, who were squatted on the ground, 
 each before the captain of his regiment. During the Customs 
 every caboceer that can possibly be spared is bound to put in an 
 appearance at the capital ; and as they were nearly all present 
 on this opening day, their umbrellas made a grand display. A 
 word or two in this place about these umbrellas will be d jyropos. 
 As in feudal times, the shield of the knight was a hierogl}^hic 
 or symbolic picture of his exploits, so at the present day tho 
 umbrella in Dahomey illustrates the principal deeds of its o^vner
 
 194 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. CHAP. IX. 
 
 by tlic various devices emblazoned upon it. The frames arc in- 
 variably of wood, and are connected by narrow pieces of cotton, 
 and give a spread of seven to twelve feet; a wooden cylinder 
 slides uj) and down the eight-foot centre pole, and is kept in 
 position by a wooden peg fixed into a hole bored through the pole. 
 The young cabocecr, on being invested vnth. the Bonugangei, or 
 officer's beads, is presented Avith a plain white umbrella, and is 
 not permitted to assume any heraldic device until he has won his 
 spurs on the field of battle. After ho has slain an enemy, he 
 quarters a decapitated head and a sword on alternate lappets of 
 the umbrella, and this is of course the most common bearing. 
 After each great event other bearings are added on the top of 
 the umbrella or on the end of the pole, the latter distinction 
 generally taking the form of an image carved in wood, and 
 usually painted. Instead of quartering their arms, as would 
 be done by heraldic augmentation, the nobles begin a fresh 
 series of bearings on another umbrella, so that the highest 
 officers have as many as a dozen of these emblazoned Kweho. 
 The state umbrellas are made of silk or velvet, a material 
 tabooed to any but the blood royal, and certain devices are 
 borne by the royal family, the quartering of which by any 
 other person is high treason. Some of the regal bearings are 
 the lion, the white-breasted crow [Cor mis Senegalensis), the harp, 
 a shark, and a fleur-de-lis. Some of the umbrellas, especially 
 those of the caboceers, who had fi'equent opportunities of -sdsiting 
 the factories at "Whydah, were very prettily decorated with stars, 
 diamonds, chevrons, and other plain devices, besides a host of 
 rude patchwork, representations of some remarkable event in the 
 life of the owner. In short, the assemblage of umbrellas formed 
 one of the most showy spectacles I ever witnessed, whatever 
 prejudiced travellers may have said to the contrary. 
 
 Each of the caboceers had his horse behind him, the gaudy 
 saddle-cloths being very creditable specimens of leather-work, 
 and the arrangement of colour invariably harmonious. Indeed, 
 savages seem to have intuitively a perception of agreeable blending
 
 CHAP. IX. GEZU'S GHOST-TEXT. 195 
 
 of colour, a harsh combination being- of rare occurrence, while 
 schools of painting have to be established to teach civilized 
 nations the very art that is an instinct with the savage. Finall}*, 
 between the pwe-shed and the elephant-tent, was a cow-shed-like 
 structure, the roof of which alone was visible, swathed in a blue 
 and white striped cloth, while the remainder was concealed from 
 the public gaze by a mat fence. This was known as the Gezu- 
 ye-ho, the house for Gezu's ghost, and under a white umbrella 
 before it sat Agotime, the Amazonian mother * of that king, sur- 
 rounded by a squadron of holy women, in blue body cloths and 
 tall steeple black hats, who constantly shook little bunches of twigs. 
 To the right of these fetichists was a row of four shapeless bundles 
 swathed in palm matting, and in a line with them a series of the 
 Kago or food calabashes, with the bandbox-lilce mat baskets 
 standing in them, which were encased in blue, pink, yellow, 
 crimson, and parti-coloured cloths, and stamped with the royal 
 brands. During the day's ceremony the number of these was 
 augmented by troops of women from the palace, who brought 
 other calabashes and placed them on mats, under the direction of 
 a Dakro. 
 
 A volley of muskets fired inside the palace, and the cessation 
 of the dancing or music, notified to us that the Autocrat was soon 
 to show himself to his assembled people. A panigan-huntoh 
 struck a succession of notes on the highest-pitched cymbal on his 
 gong-gong, and concluded by three ting-tangs ; after which pre- 
 monitory warning, he cried out, AJigo! "give audience," vie hpo! 
 *'the leopard (kmg) comes." Profound silence reigned as the 
 massive doors of the palace-gate SM'ung open, and a troop of 
 Amazons filed into the pwe-shed and took up their position on 
 the extreme left. They were principally Agbaraya, the blundcr- 
 buseers, and Nyekpleh-hentoh, or blue knives, a troop hereafter 
 to be described. They squatted on the ground, and held their 
 weapons sloping to the front or resting over their shoulders, while 
 the umbrellas of the officeresses were arranged in a kind of 
 
 * For an explanation of this term, sec Chapter xxv. 
 
 O 2
 
 19G THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 verandali "before the pwc-shed. Then, preceded by a band of 
 female performers, the king -walked with stately tread beneath 
 the shade of a gi'een-figurcd silk parasol, above which was held a 
 splendid umbrella of white velvet with the royal crow on blue 
 velvet on the lappets, the top ornamented with a curious but 
 handsome pattern of scarlet and gamboge-coloured damask, and 
 the pole sui'movmted by a green lion ratnpant regnardant. Gelele, 
 who of course was smoking, carried a Mnikinikjjo, or lion stick, 
 carved out of white wood, which he held with aristocratic care- 
 lessness head downwards or hooked over his shoulder. He 
 advanced to the edge of the sticks and regarded his subjects with 
 a pleasant expression of face as they fired volleys of muskets and 
 called out various short prayers and strong names for his benefit ; 
 while hundreds who were having a dirt-bath raised quite a cloud 
 by their vigorous shovelling. While this was going on, the largo 
 umbrella was being fixed before the royal seat on the pwe, and a 
 second batch of soldieresses seated themselves on the right of the 
 king's position. The bands of the Amazonian corps arranged 
 themselves on either hand, while a bevy of Dakros seated them- 
 selves round the royal umbrella. When all was ready, I left 
 my seat and advanced to the front, accompanied by Beecham, 
 Ghugalah and Bukau bringing up the rear. After exchanging 
 bows, the king shook hands ^vith me and made sundry inquiries 
 after my health, and concluded by sapng that he wished me to 
 take particular note of everything that occurred, and to send to 
 him for an explanation of anything I did not understand. I 
 resumed my seat amidst a perfect storm of applause, while the 
 king retreated to the shadow of the umbrella, where ho was but 
 dimly visible in the semi-darkucss of the Pwe. 
 
 A. herald then announced that the Customs would begin at 
 once, as the king was anxious to prevent his fathers becoming 
 impatient, but that he wished them to know that he, Gelele, 
 the lion-king, was still mindful of the ancient customs of his 
 forefathers, and would strive to fulfil all the wishes of his 
 ancestors. Loud cries and yells, "Bloo-Uoo," and strong names
 
 CHAP. IX. THE OrEXING CEREMONY. 197 
 
 ensued ; after which a tiug-tang and " Ahgo " restored silence ; 
 the "Gobbo," or hunchbacked police screaming out, " N'dahoh," 
 " be still," and belabouring the naked backs of the people who 
 happened to be nearest to them at the moment. 
 
 The Sogan, or Master of the Horse, dressed in a showy striped 
 tunic, and sitting side-saddle on a brown nag, shaded by a white 
 umbrella with pink horses on the lappets, and preceded by a 
 band, then paraded round the square, followed by his private 
 retinue. After the third round he dismounted opposite the king, 
 and kneeling down, bowed his head in the dust, and threw 
 several handfuls over his head. Then rising on aU fours he 
 spoke as follows : " Great king, we all see you once more 
 performing the wishes of your fathers. They will rejoice to see 
 you so doing. I now go to catch the horses of the caboceers, 
 that they may not depart until you give permission." Another 
 dirt-bath followed, and the Amazons cried out, " M'l/oh," "it is 
 good." 
 
 The followers of the Sogan then marched round the line of 
 caboceers, and collected their horses, which were tied up in the 
 Uhunglo market, and not returned to their owners until released 
 by a fine of cowries. 
 
 While this was going on, dancing was resumed by the 
 priests and the high dignitaries under the umbrella, who occa- 
 sionally groaned out, " Akhosu Uh Akhosu," "king of all 
 kings," ''Kini Mni Akhosu," "lion king," and other strong 
 names. 
 
 It was then discovered that some of the caboceers had but a 
 small modicum of their followers, and the Ningan, advancing to 
 the front, soundly rated the delinquents for daring to appear 
 before royalty with so meagre a retinue. Loud cries of " N'yoh " 
 from Amazons and men ensued, while the culprits smothered 
 their fine dresses with dirt. 
 
 The ground was then cleared for the reception of the governor, 
 and the old table brought to the front. Continual ting-tanging 
 of gong-gongs, and loud cries of " Ahgo ! " announced the head
 
 198 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 of the procession, of which but a brief resume will suffice, as all 
 the officers who figured in it have already been described. 
 
 First came the band and flags of the Bosu Sau, followed by 
 the Nuage, who did not seem to relish the loss of his horse, and 
 whose umbrella-man evidently was suffering from St. Yitus' 
 dance, for he kept the ponderous sun-shade in a continual quiver. 
 The toxophiHtc body-guard of Chuydatoh followed, who, as is 
 customary with him, showed off his civilization by smoking a 
 cigar with an affected air. A couple of quasi-TJnion Jacks 
 announced the /ocum tenens of the Avogan, who preceded the 
 Akhosi eunuch troupe. Nest in order were the Bru guards, 
 who whirled round in the normal style. This company was 
 followed by the skull standards, and the Adonejan brought up 
 the rear. 
 
 An awkward squad of six Congo soldiers, in charge of a 
 corporal, preceded the governor, who reclined in a hammock, the 
 Portuguese flag being balanced by a bugler on the right and 
 left of him. After the customary three marches round, the 
 hammock was set down on the south-eastern corner of the square, 
 and the governor, with his interpreter and body-guard, advanced to 
 the front. I could not help contrasting the unwashed, ragged 
 appearance of the governor's escort with the smart get-up of the 
 Dahomans; while the brightly-polished arms of the latter put 
 the rusty worn-out muskets of the body-guard to shame. During 
 the perambulation of the train, guns were fired, and the bands of 
 the caboceers made a liideous medley, impossible to associate with 
 any kind of music. The Congo soldiers then made an attempt 
 at a salute, but half the guns missed fire. Hahansu then sent 
 a company of soldiers, who took the undischarged weapons out 
 of the soldiers' hands, and deliberately drew the charges, lest they 
 should go off and hurt the people ; besides which no loaded gun 
 is permitted to remain in the hands of any person, except the 
 authorized salutcrs. Such an indignity to the Portuguese was 
 insufferable at the hands of a savage. 
 
 Gclcle then came from under the pwe, and advanced to the
 
 CHAP. IX. EECEPTIOX OF THE GOVERNOR. 199 
 
 side of the table. He was dressed in a scarlet and white satin 
 oivuchyon, or toga, thrown over the left shoulder, with drawers 
 and pork-pie hat of plaid silk. lie drank the governor's health, 
 a cloth being held before him a la mode, one of the " Gobbo " 
 crpng out, " Lions do not let other beasts see them drink.'* 
 The governor was then escorted to a seat under the big umbrella 
 which shaded our party ; while an artilleryman presented a 
 calabash containing fourteen gun-stones for his insj)ection. The 
 reception was but a poor affair compared with that with which I 
 was honoured. Why this partiaHty ? Gelele evidently was not 
 awed by the military display ; while the mishap of the salute 
 caused a derisive laugh to go the round of the crowd. 
 
 A number of " strangers " were then received. Amongst 
 others were the ambassadors of the King of Ashanti, conspicuous 
 by the gold plates glittering on their hair, and the massive gold 
 "jujus" depending from chains round their necks. The head- 
 man had a private executioner, known by his cap of a skinned 
 monkey with the head in front, and his very suggestive necklace- 
 of human teeth, to say nothing of an elaborately-embossed two- 
 handed sword. A. " poisoner " or " medicine man " formed also- 
 a part of the retinue of the caboceer, whose possible-sack was 
 bulged out with various " mysteries." Twelve boys carrying 
 daggers swathed in white cloths, Avith massive handles of gold, 
 knelt behind the principal chief, while a stool and shield, each 
 garnished with plates of the precious metal, were consigned to 
 the charge of a special attendant. The dress of this company 
 was far more valuable than that of any dozen of the Dahoman 
 caboccers. Ashanti and Dahomey are the two great nations of 
 the West Coast, and are always on friendly terms with each 
 other; peace being principally procured by the fact that each 
 monarch is afraid of his neighbour. Nevertheless, Gezu made a 
 pseudo attack on Ashanti, which resulted in the building of the 
 Coomassie palace. When his Majesty of Ashanti heard of this 
 affair, he immediately set out on a similar mission, and called 
 one of his palaces Abomey. It must be understood that both these;
 
 200 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 invasions were purely imaginary, the troops never crossing their 
 respective frouticrs. 
 
 Besides these auriferous chiefs, there were delegates from 
 Houssa, and a score of other tribes to the northward, as well as an 
 infinity of odd men from every petty kingdom within a con- 
 siderable radius. 
 
 The Ashauti, Houssa, and the other principal ambassadors were 
 honoured with a small procession, and, after a dirt-bath, with a 
 separate drinking with the king ; but the smaller fry were 
 arranged in a row before His Majesty, and after smothering 
 themselves in the dust, Gelele drank their healths by a deputy. 
 These foreigners were announced by the Adonejan, who knelt 
 behind each and called out their rank and titles in his butcher- 
 lilce voice ; the object of attention lying prostrate on the 
 ground. 
 
 Mngan then made a long speech, the king prompting him 
 through the medium of a Dakro, or messengeress, who knelt at 
 ■the bamboo line. The sense of the speech, A\'hich occupied a 
 quarter of an hour in its delivery, and in which the paucity of 
 words in the language necessitated frequent tautology, was — that 
 'Gelele was still a great king, and was visited by people from afar, 
 but that he would not forget that his fathers had raised the king- 
 dom to the state of grandeur in which he found it, and that it 
 -devolved upon him to maintain it in its prestige. 
 
 A number of junior caboceers were then promoted, the distinc- 
 tive necklaces being brought to the front by the Dakros, with a 
 piece of cloth for each recipient of additional rank. Ningan then 
 invested the officers with their new dignity by winding the cloth 
 round their bodies, and afterwards putting the beads round their 
 necks. Their new rank was then called out, and the newly- 
 fledged officers performed the itte dai and the ho elide, and after- 
 wards did their best to dislocate their Hmbs in an agility dance ; 
 concluding by an extempore song by one of them, and a grand 
 salute grunt by way of chorus. 
 
 After them a score of half-naked boys came up, marshalled by
 
 CHAP. IX. THE NEW DRUMMERS. 201 
 
 the Meu. These were to be created drummers, or, in other words, 
 enlisted into the Jotosi comjDany. Three new drums, smothered 
 in fetiche charms, were then brought to the front by the Dalcros, 
 and Gelele said that he did not see the use of giving drums if 
 the recipients would not use them, so he hoped the boys would 
 learn to play them at once. The drums were then handed to the 
 boys, who were joined by several old drummers from the regi- 
 ment, and oldsters and youngsters commenced playing a rub-a- 
 dub. The four bundles were next seized upon by the Amazons, 
 and the mats being stripped off, a large drum was disclosed in each. 
 These new instruments were formed of a tree-log of a truncated 
 conical shape, with a goatskin head, kept tightly stretched by 
 thongs passing over crooked pegs, fixed six inches down the sides. 
 Two sticks, crossed at right angles, accompanied each drum, 
 w^hich rested between the fork, while the narrow end touched the 
 ground. The player officiated on it by straddling across it and 
 beating it with crooked drumsticks called afiicleh. Each drum 
 had a covering of red and blue checked cloth hanging on each 
 side. These drums are known as the Ganchyahun, and the dance 
 is called the Ganchya dance. Gelele came out, protected by his 
 parasol, and accompanied by his spittoon woman and handker- 
 cliief-bearcrs ; and taking up one set of drumsticks, commenced 
 to operate on the goatskin, the three others being played by 
 Amazonian drummers. 
 
 After a five minutes' practice, amidst the cheers of the delighted 
 audience, a herald sounded his gong-gong, which was answered by 
 one on the Amazon side, " AJkjo ! " was called, and all was still. 
 The three female players then commenced a new tune, and 
 Gelele, taking up a kpogi, or singer's stick, began a slow and 
 solemn dance, shuffling the feet in studied time, and paddling 
 A\ith his hands scciDulum artem. He began to sing in a somewhat 
 husky voice an ode composed for the occasion, the following being 
 a condensation of its meaning : — " Gezu being dead, is succeeded ' 
 by a good son, who still keeps up all his customs, as if he were 
 still alive, so he must be happy." During this song, the air of
 
 202 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 whicli "was very triste, and indeed had a plaintive sweetness in its 
 melody, tlic tclegrapli-post fcticlic was unveiled, disclosing a 
 tall pole, painted white and striped red and blue, and carrying on 
 the top of a cross-bar two huge swords, with serrated edges, like 
 saws. These were painted blue, and had a row of yellow stars 
 do^\^l the centre of each blade. From the cross-bars nine green 
 cords of fetiche spun-cotton were hanging, to which several bottles 
 of rum and liqueurs, tobacco, beads, cowries, and other articles were 
 attached. Between the saw-knives a flagstaff was fixed, with a 
 crimson flag bearing a de\"ice of two blue swords, crossed upon its 
 ground. This ceremony elicited a deafening round of applause. 
 
 The shrouded hut, or Gezuyeho, was then unswathed, revealing 
 a square shed closed by matting on three sides, and open to 
 the front. The posts were spirally draped with green and white 
 chequered cloth ; while two umbrellas of the same material were 
 opened as a verandah before the door. "Within it was a large 
 Asen, wrapped up in white calico, and a couple of Tansino, or 
 Ghost-mothers, kept watch beside it. In front of this temple, 
 attached to a fetiche rope, stretched between two bamboo 
 sticks, was a row of six crimson skull-caps, and two sentinels, 
 with guns resting on forked twigs, guarded the approach. This 
 strange building was supposed to contain the spirit of King Gezu, 
 and the monarch alone is permitted to remove the calico which 
 enshrouds the iron extinguisher within its sacred walls. 
 
 Meanwhile a flagstaff had been erected in the middle of the 
 square, from which the tricoloured numeral flag " W." in the 
 Commercial Code floated proudly on the breeze. It, or rather 
 its fi'agments, was still flying when I left the capital, at Christmas 
 time. 
 
 Several princesses, whose sleek skins were suggestive of 
 frequent applications of pomatum, now stalked in from the 
 palace-gate. They were all dressed in gaily-coloured silk skirts, 
 with velvet tunics, while a long black velvet robe was thrown, 
 plaid-fashion, over the left shoulder, and fell behind nearly to the 
 feet. All wore a profusion of silver armlets, and a small silver-
 
 CHAP. IX. GELELfi'S VISIT TO GEZU. 203 
 
 Hlted dagger peeped out of the scarlet sash. Their brows were 
 encircled with silver coronets, which formed a striking contrast 
 with their swarthy complexions, and each one carried a crooked 
 kpo-stick. Some had their hair cut to a length of two inches, 
 and combed straight up till it looked like a black velvet turban, 
 while others were content with a few thimblefuls on one side. 
 Conspicuous amongst these was the Adonejan's wife, a huge 
 porpoise, whose obesity was such that she could scarcely waddle, 
 and who would have made a fitting bride for Anak. These royal 
 beauties sat down on the king's right, and most of them set up 
 a pipe at once with the air of connoisseurs. 
 
 A jester, whose face was a perfect model for the escape-pipe of 
 a drinking-fountain in its ugHness, then advanced to the front and 
 yelled out, " Look at him! Look at him! Gelele tJie shark!" 
 followed by a copious dirt-bath. 
 
 The cheers of the crowd were thou stilled by a gong-gong, and 
 Gelele advanced to the elephant-tent, amidst the silence of every 
 one, except the Agotime, who solemnly cried out at short intervals, 
 Gelele ! Gelele ! Gelele ! The king was supposed to be papng a 
 \dsit with his father to the victim-shed, and for any one to speak 
 during the ceremony was to call upon himself the sure vengeance 
 of the Bo-fetiche. After this ceremony, the Agasuuno, or head 
 fetiche-man for the Custom, who had been hitherto enshrined in 
 the Gezu-ye-ho, stood up and made a speech, the burden of which 
 was that Gelele had done right by remembering his father, and 
 all things would prosper with him. 
 
 A gang of Amazons then appeared, bearing a huge stool of 
 the normal Gold Coast pattern, and a smaller one with a black 
 seat to it. The large one was Gezu's, and the smaller 
 Gahqpwch's, the bush king for Gezu. These were set up on 
 mats before the elephant-tent, and a couple of umbrellas 
 erected to shade the ghostly occupants from the sun. A body- 
 guard of Amazons then took up their positions round them. 
 
 The leopard-wives (kposi) then filed in to the right. These, 
 the favourite spouses of the king, arc kno^vn by their smart
 
 204 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 appearance, and by the fact that everybody — Amazons and all — 
 is obliged to give way before them. The leopardesses were 
 dressed in white waistcoats, bound with scarlet velvet, and a long 
 petticoat of violet and green figured silk descended to the ankles. 
 Above this a " polonaise " of dark blue velvet reached half way 
 down the petticoat. Their haii' was frizzed out in the turban style, 
 and a row of silver coins, attached to chains of the same metal, 
 jingled in a circlet around their brows. A profusion of silver neck- 
 laces, coral beads, and other finery, with several armlets, completed 
 their get-up. Their necks and shoulders were smeared with scented 
 j)omatum of a pale green colour, and of the consistency of thick 
 paste, which was plastered on in fancifal designs of curves, diamonds, 
 and parallels. These ladies of the harem sat down alongside the 
 mat-covered seat of their lord, and employed themselves by cool- 
 ing him with oval fans of bullock's hide stained red and blue. 
 
 I forgot to mention that after the reception of the governor a 
 table was brought out, and set before me. Upon this a showy 
 cotton handkerchief was spread by way of a tablecloth, and several 
 bottles of liqueui's, rum, and water were placed upon it, and the 
 whole covered by a second cloth. From time to time we helped 
 ourselves to the contents, and never failed to empty the last drop 
 among our followers, much to the horror of Beccham, who was 
 astonished at such " waste." This table was set out at every 
 levee during my stay. 
 
 The king then sallied out of the shadowy depths of the Pwe, 
 and accompanied by liis wives and spittoon and handkerchief- 
 bearers, advanced to the front. One of the leopardesses held the 
 parasol over his head,^hile an Amazon kept off the sunshine by 
 means of a splendid umbrella of green velvet, edged with yellow 
 and crimson. Upon each lappet was a wliite vulture, with a 
 scarlet and blue eye and violet claws, that was tearing out the 
 entrails of a sky-blue man, with a white waistcloth and scarlet 
 legs, the man being about half the size of the bii'd. On the 
 summit of the umbrella was a rude car\Tng of a vulture, and the 
 flat top was covered with a row of vultures of similar colours to
 
 CHAP. IX. AN OBLATION TO GEZU. 205 
 
 those on tlic valance, but having their wings " displayed." The 
 lining of this umbrella was pink cotton, and round the edge of 
 the top a chequered fillet connected the valance with the roof. ] 
 
 Several baskets were brought out by the Amazons, an^me 
 king, taldng a bottle in each hand, walked to the front of the 
 stools, and poured out the spirit on the ground, in a circle around 
 him. Twenty-seven quart bottles of rum and gin were thus 
 poured out as an oblation to Gezu, and the ceremony concluded 
 by His Majesty drinking his father's health, a cloth being held 
 up, and the audience hiding their faces during the toast. The 
 ministers and head generals were then called to the front, the 
 Ningan, Meu, Adonejan, and Ajakyaho kneeling a little in 
 front of the rest. Bottles of grog and provisions from the several 
 baskets were then given by the king to the officers, who, after 
 touching the ground Avith their foreheads, put the palms of their 
 hands together in a praying attitude, while Gelele poured the 
 spirit do^vn their throats. The remainder of the spirits were 
 then given in the same manner to the soldiers, and the provisions 
 distributed amongst the people. Everybody crowded to the front, 
 and the hunchbacked police were busy with their besoms keeping 
 the canaille from a too close proximity to the sacred bamboos, 
 the Dakros assisting them in a similar manner. A herald then 
 proclaimed silence, while the police cleared a lane through the 
 excited multitude, and Gelele advanced towards us. We arose 
 at his approach, and after shaking hands with me, he drank my 
 health. He then passed on to the governor, and honoured him 
 in the same way. Several bottles of rum, and two baskets of 
 provisions, were then given to each of us, and in this way we 
 received permission to leave the presence, after being nine mortal 
 hours in court, sitting on our chairs under the umbrella. The 
 hammock-men immediately began to squabble over the division 
 of the provisions, but Bukau speedily put an end to the strife by 
 producing his stick, and ordering my people to carry off the 
 whole to my quarters, where he took upon himself the task of 
 appropriating the delicacies, while the rest had to be accepted by
 
 206 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 the governor's people. This was always the case when any 
 provisions were given to be divided between us, and I found that 
 Gelele had given orders for the division of the spoil to take place 
 at my house, under the superintendence of Bukau. Everybody 
 { is supposed to make merry to-night at the king's expense, and 
 I' certainly, if all the lieges followed the example of my people, a 
 very little suf&ced to keep them up haggling, singing, and 
 dancing for the greater part of the night. So ended the first day 
 01 the Customs. 
 
 THE AGASUNNO-JAGA-SIN-TANSI-GBEH-NESU. — THE AGASUNNO 
 WILL GO OUT FOR THE GHOST WATER TO-DAY fOR NESU. 
 
 During the night I heard several yelps as if a dog were being 
 beaten, and this anti-somnulent was repeated at short intervals, 
 until near daylight. On inquiring into the matter, I was told 
 that on the first night of the Custom, all the dogs that can be 
 caught by the night watchmen are slaughtered ; for it is a fact, 
 well known to every Dahoman, but concealed no doubt, for wise 
 reasons by Providence, from white men, that on the first night of 
 any Custom, the dogs assemble in the streets, and try to talk 
 like men. If they were once to succeed, they would call down 
 various plagues and pestilences upon the nation. liisuDi iematis, 
 
 amice s 
 
 The second day of the Custom is devoted to a religious 
 ceremony called Agasunno-jaga-sin-tansi-gbeh-nesu, a long- 
 winded title meaning — Agasunno (the head feticheer for the 
 Custom) will go to fetch the ghost-water (water for spiritual 
 ,. purposes) to-day for Nesu. During this festival the king remains 
 in his palace, and none of the ofiicials appear abroad. About 
 ten o'clock in the morning I went to the south-eastern angle of 
 the Coomassie palace, where my umbrella was set up. The road 
 was fenced off by a line of bamboo poles and a thin rope of "tie- 
 tic " spun from the cloth-like bark of a pabn tree. This fence 
 extended from a fetiche hut, near the western gate of the Coo- 
 massie palace, called a Nesu hwc, or Nesu temple, the shrine of
 
 CHAP. IX. THE NESU PROCESSION. 207 
 
 the celebrated fetiche Nesu, the tutelary deity of Abomey, through 
 the TJhunglo market to a water-pit on the' northern side of the 
 town called Didoh. At intervals of a hundred yards or there- 
 abouts long poles were erected, carrying a plain white flag, like 
 a table-cloth, at their summits ; and at the foot of every 
 alternate one sat a fetiche herald, with a large gong-gong, having 
 five cymbals fixed on the end of as many rods, which radiated 
 from a common centre, like the fingers of a man's outspread 
 hand. A tune something like the chimes of a peal of bells was 
 played on this instrument, and occasionally a strong name would 
 be called out. 
 
 About half-past ten a volley of muskets, accompanied by the 
 blast of a score of horns, announced the commencement of the 
 procession. Presently, a troop of Amazons of the Blunderbus 
 company advanced from the western side of the palace, marching 
 along the space marked ofi" by the fence. They were firing guns 
 as they walked along, in about the same order as that taken by a 
 drove of sheep. A white flag, emblazoned with a blue alligator, 
 was carried in their midst ; and the Begani, or Captainess, 
 strode along under the shade of an umbrella, bearing green 
 squares on its white valance. 
 
 Behind this advanced guard came a troop of twenty-two 
 princesses, marching in Indian file. They were dressed in sombre 
 grey and brown pagnes, with black necklaces and iron armlets 
 for ornaments. On their heads, resting on a pad of white cotton, 
 they carried small jars of various shapes, covered on the top with 
 an inverted calabash, and having a string of blood-stained cowries 
 hung round the neck. These pots are called Bagwch, and hold 
 the sacred water, which is used in the worship of Ncsu. 
 
 Behind the princesses came a row of 123 fetiche women, all 
 clothed in sad-coloured garments, -svith a black silk sash round 
 the waist and a white calico skull-cap on their heads. The first 
 twenty -four were Mau, or moon fetiche women, distinguished by 
 long necklaces of cowries, with black seeds, called Attilcuhn, 
 interchanged. A dozen Avrekctesi, or fetiche priestesses, for
 
 208 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 Avreketeh, a sea deity, followed ; their nccldaccs being contrived 
 of cockle-sliells; Behind them came a gang of Bo-fetichists, 
 who preceded a few Sapatansi, or small-pox priestesses, whose 
 chaplets of scarlet feathers contrasted glaringly with their ebon 
 cheeks and snowj'' skull-caps. 
 
 Behind this long train came the eight Tansi-no, or ghost 
 mothers, who are the corporeal dweUings of the spirits of the 
 mothers of the deceased kings. They were preceded by a 
 peculiar-looking affair of brass, like a twelve-foot curtain pole, 
 tapering to a point, and ha-\^ng a piece of white rag, the avo, 
 wrapped round it at about three feet from the top. These sacred 
 persons wore blue steeple hats and blue gowns, like an Arab 
 bumoose, with a black sash thrown over the left shoulder. 
 
 Behind the ghost-mothers, again, came the bandsmen of the 
 Agasunno, plapng exclusively on five-noted gong-gongs. Next 
 came the great fetichecr himself, who walked between two 
 lieutenants under a scarlet umbrella, with black crows, edged with 
 white, stitched to the lappets. The Agasunno carried a scarlet 
 stick, crowned with an avo, and profusely decorated with cowi'ies. 
 Those borne by his deputies were not so highly ornamented. 
 
 Finally, came a rearguard of about a hundred Amazons, who 
 made our ears ring with the loud reports of their muskets. 
 They had scarcely passed ere the mid- day guns were fired, and 
 the guard, preceded by a eunuch, who tinkled his beU, started 
 off on their round, at a slow pace ; the heralds calHng out the 
 nycai/nsyn, or strong names, with the customary drawl. 
 
 Leaving some of my people in charge of the umbrella, I 
 retired to breakfast, half-baked with a two hours' seance under a 
 vertical sun. 
 
 "While we are eating our well-earned breakfasts, I will de- 
 scribe the ceremony at the Didoh, as related to me by a fetiche 
 priest. 
 
 When all the Bagweh carriers have arrived, the jars are 
 fiUed with water from the pit. A smaU image is then made of 
 the clay from the water-side, and set upright on a Httle mound
 
 CHAP. IX. MAKING FETICHE AT THE DIDOH, 209 
 
 also of the clay. A fire is tlien kindled near the deity, and the 
 Agasunno proceeds to slay a number of fowls, ducks, and other 
 animals, pro\dded for that purpose, and previously left in the 
 charge of Jobwah, the custodian of the king's water-pits, who 
 resides in a house to the north of the principal pit. 
 
 The heads of the sacrifices are then stuck in the mound at the 
 feet of the muddy god, "who is the locum tenens for the time 
 being of Nesu. 
 
 The bodies have the feathers singed, and are then torn in 
 shreds, and devoured by the Agasunno and his company. The 
 feast over, the blood-stained clay of the mound is employed as a 
 seal to the calabash coverings of the jars, and the contained water 
 is then carried to the Nesu-hwe to be used for various purposes, 
 principally for watering the graves of the kings in the Sin Kwain 
 Custom, hereafter to be described. 
 
 About three o'clock the firing of the returning priestesses began 
 to be heard, and Egblie-egbah rushed in to say that " the fetiche 
 live," i.e., is present. On our arriving at the umbrella, the van- 
 guard were opposite us, and firing their muskets with consider- 
 able rapidity. No wonder that some of their hands disappear on 
 these occasions, for an excited warrior will sometimes commence 
 to reload her piece, while it is still smouldering at the touch-hole. 
 Accidents ivill occur in spite of the Aizan fetiche. 
 
 The Bagwe carriers were chanting a song to a merry tune — 
 
 " Gesu made a son who still remembers him, and he 
 will always fetch water for his grave. 
 All people shall know and tremble at the shaking 
 of the earth when this great leopard king walks out." 
 
 The rear guard were frantically rushing about all over the 
 road, darting up to one herald, and shrieking out a strong name, 
 and then tearing off to another, and shaking their gun in his face, 
 treating him to a brief resume of all the good qualities of Gelcle. 
 Guns were thrown into the air, ballet-girl twirlings were 
 attempted, with every possible antic that a party of escaped
 
 210 - THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. ix. 
 
 lunatics, who were afflicted with chronic St. Vitus' dance, could 
 be expected to go through. The dust they kicked up was fearful, 
 and the bodies of most of the people, both Amazons and 
 spectators, were coloured brick-red with the flpng showers. 
 
 AVhen the pots were deposited in the Nesu-hwe, a dance and 
 feast would conclude the day's pilgrimage. 
 
 Burton made a surreptitious visit to the Didoh pits, and thereby 
 incurred the vengeance of the fetiche people. I never heard 
 whether he suffered any ill effects from their hrutum fulmen. 
 No person except those connected with the palace are allowed to 
 use any of the water from the Didoh, but must content them- 
 selves with that from the other pits to the eastward. The water 
 is much purer than any in the neighbourhood ; and on my 
 representing to the king that I could not drink the milky stuff 
 from the Nyasso and other pits, he sent me a jar of the king's 
 water three times a week, the mouth of the vessel being closed by 
 a lid luted with clay, and a fetiche tied to the neck, xchich would 
 came certain death to any common tnan drinking thereof.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM— (co?i(!i7iMcrf). 
 
 Third Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Pleasures of waiting upon royalty — 
 Procession of eunuchs — Parade of the king's robes — Dance and song of the 
 Amazons — Court zanys — Procession of the " inside " officers — The Nunu- 
 pweto or omnipotent cloth — The royal solo on the new drum — Exhibition 
 of the king's robes — Gelele's metamorphoses and dances. 
 
 Fourth Section of the King's So-Sin Custom. — Gelele's three skull troiihies — 
 Dance and procession of the ministers — Their song— Gelele's dance — The 
 Bassajeh — Fighting for cowries. 
 
 Fifth Section of tJic King's So-Sin Custom. — Preparations for the human sacrifices 
 — The Braggadocio company— Song of the national bards — Amazonian 
 ballet — Abeokeuta threatened — Song of the generals — National songs — 
 Procession of Amazons with cowries. 
 
 THE "AVO-USU-GBE;" OR, '.VE \\T:LL SHOW A CH^VNGE (NUMBER) 
 OF CLOTHS TO-DAY. 
 
 In the early morning I went by hammock to pay Ilahansu a 
 visit, and thank him for a 4' lb. canister of tea which he had sent 
 me, ic having been hinted to him by Ghugalah that my store was 
 running short. I had started from Whydah with a fortnight's 
 provisions, and I had been absent more than five Avecks already, 
 and Amoosu had not yet returned from the factory with fresh 
 supplies. 
 
 About noon we started for the king's gate, and on arriving at 
 the Uhon-nukon, our chairs were set down beneath the spreading 
 branches of the Bwckon uhun. A crowd of idlers then assembled 
 round us, and commenced stock-taking our persons. Urchins 
 naked as they were born, came up to us and cried out " Yeovoh," 
 " white man," to our faces, while the adult portion passed free 
 comments on our every movement. I tried to keep down my 
 
 p 2
 
 212 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 rising choler by a pipe, and gave Bukau a hint that in the case 
 of the rabble, distance certainly lent enchantment to the vietv, to 
 say nothing of" the smell. I hardly think bloodhounds can be 
 necessary to follow up a runaway slave, for surely his natural 
 scent is strong enough to render his pursuit a simple matter of 
 " following your nose." Jtlany tribes can be distinguished by 
 their pecuHar aroma, and at the Graboon I have often detected 
 the presence of a M'pangwe in the factory by the odoriferous 
 radiation from his skin. Ab uno disce omnes. After a quarter 
 of an hour of this public exhibition, it was a comfort to see the 
 straggHng escort of the Governor appearing in the distance down 
 the Jegbeh road. 
 
 The tree above us was a favourite perch for vultures, and their 
 presence was anything but agreeable, until, as a devnier ressort, 
 I suggested the unfurling of one of the large umbrellas. Our 
 patience was fairly tried before we received notice that the 
 king was about to come forth, and at half-past one we took our 
 seats after an hour and a half of chaff at the hands of the 
 canaille. From that day I vowed I would never start for the 
 court untd I heard the premonitory guns ; and as long as we 
 were within hearing of the signal I kept my word, much to the 
 disgust of Bcecham and the Buko-no. 
 
 A mat-wallcd tent, whose roof was covered with a cloth of 
 blue and white striped calico, had been erected near the fetiche 
 tree, occupied by the spinning priestess. 
 
 A colour-sergeant was rushing about the square, whirKng a 
 tattered ensign charged with a blue soldier slaying a very podgy 
 crimson enemy. No sooner did we apppear upon the scene than 
 he came up at the top of his speed, and, reeking wdth perspiration 
 from every pore, began a severe dance, singing a war song, having 
 reference to the probable fate of Abeokeuta, should Gelele attack 
 it, flinging about his limbs as if he wished to emulate a crustacean 
 and throw them off. 
 
 Gelele came in with his escort of leopard-wives, dahkros, 
 and captainesses, and leaving them a few paces in the rear,
 
 i-HAP. X. THE PARADE OF EUNUCHS. 213 
 
 advanced to the front, where we met him, and exchanged 
 compliments. 
 
 The unfortunate governor again made a failure of a salute, 
 and received a hint from the king that such displays were not 
 exactly calculated to raise him in the estimation of the Daho- 
 mans. The king then took his seat beneath the newly erected 
 shed, whither his wives had preceded him. Tononun then 
 staggered to the front, his withered limbs contrasting unfa- 
 vourably with those of his lieutenant, notwithstanding he was 
 radiant in a long blue coat of European cut, sadly deficient in 
 nap. 
 
 The junior eunuchs carried a huge stretcher, upon which an 
 immense mat-basket was placed. These neuters paraded thrice 
 round the square, at the third round depositing their load on the 
 men's side of the sticks. The Tononun then stepped across the 
 fatal line — a pri-salege he alone has the pleasure of indulging in, 
 and, picking up the rods, placed them on the men's side of the 
 package, which was thus enclosed within the women's boundary. 
 A number of Amazons then advanced and carried the package to 
 the front of the new tent. 
 
 The Yavedo, or chief eunuchess, followed by the second in 
 command, the Visctigan, then led a number oi female eunuchs 
 to the tent, each carrying a load of something wrapped up in 
 coarse matting. Others bore the large calabash- ended baskets 
 before mentioned, but with the lids removed, so that a dozen 
 rolls of various coloured cloth could be seen within, packed 
 tightly together in an upright position. There were 147 of 
 these calabashes and twenty-four of the mat-covered parcels, 
 all of which were placed round the new tent, under which Gelel^ 
 was sitting. 
 
 A score of gong-gong men then marched round the square, 
 singing a Nago or Egba song. They were followed by a detach- 
 ment from three regiments, who were trying to dislocate their 
 limbs in every possible manner, unfortunately without success. 
 
 After ten minutes of this violent exercise, they were happily
 
 214 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 relieved from further exertions by the ting-tang of a herald, 
 followed by AJigo ! nWuhoh ! A group of Amazonian singers 
 (Wenukhodotoh), distinguished by their crossbelts of white beads 
 and their kpogi, or staves — short truncheons, ha\ing a strip of 
 coloured cloth attached to the top, — then started up, and giving a 
 few preliminary beats with their wands, commenced the following 
 song : — 
 
 " We ask King Gezu to teach us to dance 
 
 For if we are not good dancers we shall disgrace him. 
 Why should he not therefore show us how to do it ? 
 
 As these bards sang their ditty they waved their batons in 
 time to the measure, and posed themselves in different attitudes 
 as their fancy dictated. 
 
 At the end of the song they commenced theii' Terpsichorean 
 exercise. Standing in line, one behind the other, they performed 
 a series of hops to the right and left ; at every tenth movement 
 jerking their bodies to the front and rear, and finishing the figure 
 with a hop and a twist round, so as to bring themselves to the right 
 about. A similar set was then performed with their faces pointing 
 in the opposite direction, and the dance concluded with a march 
 round and a kind of swimming motion of their hands, followed 
 by a violent jerking of the shoulders to the rear, until the elbows 
 met behind the back. Dm-ing this performance a band on the 
 left did the instrumental business, and the excited crowd gazed 
 at the spectacle with unconcealed dehght. 
 
 Suddenly Gelele stalked into the dancing throng, and began 
 to follow their movements. Guns were fired, strong names 
 shouted out, and a Bloo-Bloo of applause went the round of 
 the assembly. Meanwhile two officers of the Braggadocio 
 Company, or Menhoblutoh, attired in red serge smock-frocks, 
 prowled about the coui't, smoking pieces of yams stuck on 
 sticks, wearing their hats in the presence of royalty, sneezing,* 
 interrupting and mimicking the actions of the king, and other- 
 
 * Sneezing in the presence is punished by fine.
 
 HAP. X. THE "OMNIPOTENT" CLOTH. 215 
 
 wise showing their peculiar prerogative of doing just what is 
 apposed to court etiquette. One of these clowns called out to 
 the king to come and light his pipe, upon which the other 
 .said, " ISo, I vd\l do that ; " and thereupon he poured some 
 water on his companion's pipe. Roars of laughter betokened 
 the success of this childish buffoonery. 
 
 The dancing over a procession was formed, proceeding round 
 the square from right to left. First came the Ajakyaho, 
 whose pug nose was set off by a pork-pie hat. Then followed 
 the Anlinwanun, w^earing a pair of silver horns like the handle 
 to the Ud of a common black teapot. He had a formidable 
 escort of drummers and gong-gong men, and was followed by 
 the Benazon, or treasurer, radiant in a brilliant coat of scarlet 
 and white striped chintz. Next in order was the old Tononun, 
 leaning heavily on his stick, and sadly put out by the speed of 
 the procession. After him came the Kangbodeh, a eunuch, the 
 inspector of the night-guard, wearing a huge silver bell and long 
 conical horns. His lieutenant, the Kakopwe, followed, evidently 
 out of temper because his horse was still unredeemed, since this 
 officer is so tender on the score of dignity as never to appear in 
 public on foot when he can help it. The Gbwewedo, or chief 
 eunuch for the present king, brought up the rear of the "inside" 
 officers, who were followed by a band and company of dancers. 
 
 Presently, a bevy of Amazons spread a line of bamboo mats 
 from the railing before the victim shed to the sheds on the south 
 side of the square, a lane having been previously marked off by 
 the eunuchs with the bamboo poles. A second batch of women 
 then appeared, carrying long poles lilce alpen-stocks, the tops of 
 which had an iron hook affixed to them. A hole was then du<r 
 with the usual iron spade, and the polos laid beside them. 
 
 The mats covering the massive basket that had been brought 
 in by the Tononun were then removed, and a gigantic piece 
 of patchwork was unrolled. This was the Nun-u-pwe-to, or 
 " omnipotent " cloth, formed of samples of every kind of textile 
 fabric that is imported into the kingdom. It is the duty of the
 
 216 
 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. 
 
 De-gan, or mistom-house officers, to Icvij a piece of every diffi^rent 
 kind of cloth, to augment this " able-to-do-anytliing " robe. Its 
 formation was commenced by Gezu, and it has assumed the 
 
 THE JAW UMBHELLA, GELELfc's STOOL, GUNS, STICKS, SWOl.DS, ETC. 
 
 enormous length of four hundred yards and a breadth of about 
 ten feet. The pieces are not of uniform size, varying from a 
 square foot to a full-sized piece, three feet by nine. The various 
 kinds of cloth, such as denhams, chintzes, silks, vento-pullams, 
 velvets, &c., are arranged hap-hazard, and are of every hue and
 
 CTIAP. X. THE ALL-roWERFUL DRUM. 217 
 
 design that can be imagined. Ecds, blues, greens, yellows, 
 browns, blacks, and whites are mingled indiscriminately ; while 
 striped, checked, plaid, and figured patterns add to the medley. 
 Its exhibition was received with a torrent of applause, and while 
 it was being raised on high by means of the poles, the hooks of 
 which were inserted into eyelet holes in the selvage, the heralds 
 were busy " strong naming " the king. A huge drum, adorned 
 with nine bleached skulls round the head, and carried on the 
 heads of four strapping Amazons, was then brought forward. 
 This interesting musical instrument also rejoices in the same 
 name as the cloth, being known as the Nunupwetohun, or " all- 
 powerful drum." Gelele then advanced to the front, and, taking 
 a monstrous pair of crooked drumsticks from one of the custodians 
 of the big drum, beat a few notes on it. He then commenced a 
 stump oration, saying that the drum and cloth were both in- 
 stituted for a special purpose, namely, the drum to be beaten as 
 a death-knell to a number of messengers to send to Gezu to 
 inform him of the fall of Abeokeuta, and the robe to be worn on 
 the return of the victorious king. He said that it was all very 
 well for them to get up in an excited manner and declare that 
 Abeokeuta must be taken ; but that when he led them to the 
 attack they allowed themselves to be beaten. Loud cries of 
 "Abeokeuta menaiye,'^ " We will go to Abeokeuta ;" '^Abeokeuta 
 sundehgbwe," ''We will cut off the head of Abeokeuta," here 
 interrupted the royal speech ; and when the cheering had sub- 
 sided, Gelele proceeded, saying that the people ought to be 
 ashamed to put him to so great an expense as was entailed by 
 the constant additions to the Nunupweto cloth. 
 
 The king then retired to the front of the newly-erected shed 
 and divested himself of every stitch of clothing, the chokoto 
 alone excepted. The various baskets of cloth bundles were then 
 brought up, and the cloths unrolled and displayed before the 
 admiring crowd, and placed upon a semicircular line of mats 
 round the dressing shed. Cloth after cloth was unfurled until 
 the accumulation formed a wall of gorgeous-coloured fabrics nearly
 
 218 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 six feet higli, tlie grandest silks being selected as the uppermost 
 cloths. This collection comprised cloths of every description, 
 both of native and European make. Owuchyon, heavy as 
 blankets, formed of cotton and woven into the royal patterns, 
 which none must imitate, were gorgeous in scarlet, blue, and 
 green. Orange and violet silks, velvets of crimson, sky-blue, or 
 gamboge, yellow muslins, chintzes, and other fabrics formed a 
 most radiant galaxy of colour ; while the no less splendid hues of 
 the " all-powerful cloth " which flaunted to the left completed a 
 most gaudy picture. 
 
 While the cloths were being piled at the heap, his Majesty 
 donned various robes, being assisted by his wives in his toilette. 
 After each change of dress he strutted to the fore, a strapping 
 Amazon holding a niany-hued parasol over his head, and showing 
 the perfection of umbreUaship by constantly twirling it round. 
 The parasol was changed with each renewal of costume, one of 
 the series of moults consisting of the assumption of the royal 
 fetiche dress. This was a dull brown mummy-cloth-looking 
 toga, bound round the waist Tvith a blue and white sash, while a 
 black and ^hite shoulder-belt passed from the left shoulder to 
 the right side, where an enormous medicine bag was suspended, 
 formed of embossed and embroidered leather, the principal 
 emblem being a rampant lion, Leo hemldicmimus, and a fish of a 
 very ambiguous race. The toga was decorated with a seme of 
 fetiche charms secured in little square leather cases and sewn to 
 the dress, intermingled with which were cowries smeared with 
 blood. In his hand he held a Bo-stick richly studded with 
 blood-stained cowries, and bearing several strips of blue, brown, 
 and white calico from its crooked head. A fetiche umbrella, 
 black, with white skulls and cross-bones on the lappets, and the 
 stick crowned M'ith a real cranium, was slowly turned round 
 above his head. A musket, " cowried " like the rest of his 
 costume, completed a tout ememhie truly fetiche in its get up. 
 
 The " able-to-do- anything " di'um was then beaten in a kind 
 of toUing stroke, and Gelele began his dance, which consisted
 
 CHAP. X. THE KING'S DANCE. 219 
 
 principally of a side-to-side movement, while the elbows were 
 crooked like a peewit's wings, or held akimbo, and violently jerked 
 about. As he danced he whirled round on one foot, and I was con- 
 siderably amused at seeing a naked urchin, about five years old, 
 mimicking the king behind his back. Gelele, on discovering this 
 sable imp, led him to the front and danced to him, his movements 
 being imitated by the pigmy dancer, and the crowd, men and 
 women both, fairly screamed with excitement. 
 
 Several captains then got up and danced on their own. account, 
 and everybody seemed working themselves into an absolute 
 frenzy, until Gelele raising his musket to the present, advanced 
 with crouching gait to the front, and concluded the dance by 
 firing it ofi". 
 
 AViping the perspiration from his brow, the king then com- 
 menced a " Nago " dance, called " Agbata," the principal 
 feature of which seemed to be a series of leaps over imaginary 
 hurdles, and the kicking about of spectral foot-balls. Deafening 
 cheers, as usual, followed the royal display, and guns and strong 
 names were let ofi" without stint. A series of twenty- seven 
 dances followed ; the king performing the first figure of each, 
 and then calling upon one of the Amazonian captainesses to 
 finish it for him ; for dancing under a blazing tropical sun is 
 no Hght employment, as the reader can be assured. Gelele then 
 dofi'ed the fetiche dress, and appeared in the costume of a 
 captain in the Blue Guards. His musket was slung at his back, 
 and he carried a lion stick over liis shoulder. His cap was of 
 blue-figured silk with a dragon, or rather wyvern, of scarlet with 
 yellow wings, employed in the dissection of a green fish. A 
 sham attack upon an adversary was the main feature of this 
 dance, which concluded by a presentation of the musket, which 
 was not fired. 
 
 A last change of cloth followed, the retiring dress being of 
 crimson and yellow striped damask, with a sky-blue sash sus- 
 pending a silver-belted dagger, and a waist-belt of emerald green 
 silk with an enormous curtain tassel at the end. A newly-
 
 220 THE SO-STN CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 carved Xpo stick was carried in the king's left hand, and hi.s 
 head was covered \sdth the coif of the Fanti Company — a golden 
 lion with a scarlet hand in his mouth, standing in hold contrast 
 to the gi-een velvet of which the cap was composed. Down the 
 centre of the crown of the cap a narrow piece of leopard skin 
 was stretched, and narrow pieces of the skin A\^th the fur twisted 
 into spirals formed two flying tails hehind it. 
 
 A few steps of the Mahi dance, a violent display of gymnastic 
 powers, and the king, much to our delight, ordered the provision 
 baskets to be opened. The grandees of the kingdom advanced 
 to the stick-line, and, kneeling before the bamboos, wxre exhorted 
 by the king to attack Abeokeuta "for true" this time. Mean- 
 while the various cooked meats were doled out into portions by 
 the Dahkros, and at the conclusion of the speech the eunuchs 
 removed the bamboo sticks to the back of the provisions, and 
 the slaves of the Ningan and his comrades carried off the food. 
 The sticks being replaced in their old position, sundry bottles of 
 rum were similarly given to the ministers, who, after a copious 
 sand bath, retired. 
 
 The king next presented his soldieresses with a similar dona- 
 tion of meat and drink, and then, pointing to two unopened 
 baskets which were placed on the men's side of the sticks, and 
 taken up by a batch of porters, advanced towards us. After 
 shaking hands he presented the " chop " to us, and bidding us 
 eat, drink, and be merry, and come and see him on the next day 
 of the Custom, retired to his divan under the little shed. 
 
 The Bukono, who considered that to show proper respect to 
 the king, the viands must be immediately attacked, as was done 
 by the natives, fetched out several handfuls of grilled goat 
 meat, and handing it to us bade us commence. Much to his 
 dismay I declined ; upon which, seizing a bottle of rum, and 
 taking a swig himself, he at once made an assault upon the 
 Congo escort of the governor, who, nothing loth, swallowed the 
 fiery fluid as though they possessed funnels instead of throats. 
 This was more than the governor could stand, and, getting up,
 
 iiAP. X. BUKONO AND THE CONGO GUARDS. 221 
 
 fiG began a vigorous rating of the Bukono, who not understanding 
 a word of Portuguese, and caring nothing for the futile efforts 
 <if the governor to prevent the administration of the spiritual 
 comfort to the guard, quietly proceeded with his bottle, and did 
 not desist until he had emptied about two quarts of raw spirits 
 ilown the gaping mouths of the Congo men. I tried, but in vain, 
 1 get a word with the governor, who, frantic with rage, was wildly 
 throwing his arms about, and making himself a laughing-stock 
 «if the whole assembly, who cheered the Bukono, and as lustily 
 derided the Aguda-avo-gan (Portuguese). Nothing delights a 
 savage so much as putting a white man in a passion at a thing he 
 is incapable of preventing. Had the governor quietly intimated 
 to the Bukono that he would not permit his escort to have any 
 rum, all would have been well ; but he at once commenced to 
 vrrcst the bottle from that officer's hands by main force, and at 
 once and for ever lost all his dignity and the respect which would 
 otherwise have been sho\^ai to him. 
 
 After this disgraceful scene, the Amazon "Wlienukhodotoh sang 
 the following song : — 
 
 " Gelele has changed his cloth for his father and has danced many times for 
 Gczu ; 
 Gezu will therefore remember his son and will prosper his r.rms against 
 Abeokeuta." 
 
 A bottle of rum as " pass " was then brought to the bamboos 
 by a dalikro, who was specially appointed to carry messages 
 between the king and myself, and Bukau, and the governor's 
 interpreter fetched it, bending their knees before the semi-sacred 
 Amazon. Nothing loth to quit a scene where we had been 
 for six hours, we at once left the presence, etiquette not requiring 
 us to bid adieu to royalty, and were soon enjoying a bath to get 
 rid of some modicum, at least, of the red dust that flies about 
 in clouds whenever the Kodide is performed.
 
 222 THE SO-Sm CUSTOM. cuap. x. 
 
 THE BONUGAN NUN-KPON GBE DIYEH ; OR, THE OFFICERS WILL 
 LOOK AT A MARVELLOUS SIGHT TO-DAY. 
 
 Early on tlie morning of Sept. 8th, we were summoned to the 
 presence, but not relishing the idea of a two hours' exhibition, I 
 sent word to the king that for the future I would take care to 
 meet him when he entered the court, but would decline the 
 honour of showing myself to his people for several hours before- 
 hand. In about an hour I heard the guns fired, and then started 
 for the TJhonnukon, where I arrived about five minutes before the 
 advent of royalty. The governor had enjoyed a two hours' seance 
 with the rabble, and was not very pleased that I had not been 
 his comrade. 
 
 I found the small shed had been removed, and in its place 
 were three brass-mounted calvariae placed in large calabashes. 
 The first was the skull of Bakoko, king of Ishagga, who was slain 
 by Gelele's own hand. It had been boiled and smoothly polished, 
 and the lower jaw removed to form an ornament to Gelele's royal 
 stool. It was encased in a rude helmet of brass, the top of the 
 head being covered with a brass bowl shaped like a calabash, the 
 stalk of which served as a handle. This calabash is used by 
 Gelele as a drinking cup. As is customary with most things of 
 the kind, there is a legend attached to the cup. When Gelele 
 attacked Abeokeuta in 1851, the Ishagga people proved faithless 
 to their allies, the Dahomans. This treachery was revenged in 
 1862, when the people were utterly routed, and their king 
 Bakoko brought a prisoner to Abomey. At the succeeding annual 
 Customs he was slain by Gelele himself, who ordered his head to 
 be made into a drinking cup, because, said he, " if he does not 
 know how to give water to a friend in need, he must now let his 
 friends drink from his head." 
 
 The second cranium was that of Akiaon, king of Attakoh, a 
 small town near Badagary. This king, on the death of Gezu in 
 1858, sent a defiant message to Gelele, his successor, saying that 
 now men could be happy, for that the scarlet bird (Gezu) Avas 
 dead, and that the sea (Dahomey) had dried up in consequence.
 
 CHAP. X. THE THREE SKULL TROPHIES. 223 
 
 In .1860, Gelele attacked Akiaon, and had his skull mounted in 
 a ship resembling an old Spanish galleon, having a couple of 
 masts with round tops, and a jib-boom with jib set from each end. 
 Shrouds, anchors, and cannon are all of brass, and the skull com- 
 pletely fills up the hold. Gelele on exhibiting this ship to his 
 people, said, " Akiaon said the sea was dried up. Perhaps it was so, 
 but there was still enough water left in the sea to float his skull." 
 
 The third skull was that of an Abeokcutan general, Fladoh, or 
 Fa-la-leh, who was sent by them to incite the Ishaggans to fall 
 upon the Dahoman forces. He was given up to the Dahomans 
 when they " broke " Ishagga, and after having been tied to a 
 horse and dragged round the palace, was exposed in the market 
 in the following So-Sin Custom. His skull was mounted on a 
 brass stand similar to those used by shop-keepers to place their 
 ham and beef joints upon. A series of brass bands supported a 
 brass plate which covered the crown of the head. From this 
 plate a copper twig rose to a height of six inches, to which a 
 brass chain was attached which ended in a catch, upon which a 
 fall trap was placed. The twig was surmounted by a brass flag, 
 beneath which a white avo was tied. The legend attached to 
 this skull is, that Fladoh laid a trap to catch the Dahomans, but 
 like all treacherous people he fell into it himself. 
 
 After the usual complimentary salute to the king, a number of 
 jesters entertained the company for a quarter of an hour by their 
 bufi'oonery. During this interval the principal caboceers left the 
 presence and retired to the long market sheds behind the Bwekon 
 uhon. 
 
 In a short time a band struck up its monotonous rub-a-dub, 
 and Ningan appeared, dressed in a showy tunic of red and green 
 striped silk, with drawers of blue and white chintz, and a full 
 suite of silver ornaments, horns, necklaces, etc. He carried a 
 circinal ended knife, with holes in it like those in a fish slice, and 
 performed the usual s'VNnmming dance round the Adanzan. He 
 was followed by the Men, the Adoncjan, the Ajakyaho, the Gaou, 
 the Kposu, and the locum tenons of the Avogau. All these high
 
 224 THE SO-Sm CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 dignitaries were superbly dressed in various- coloured tunics, and 
 their silver ornaments glittering in the sun formed a gorgeous 
 pageant, barbarous, it is true, but none the less gaudy on that 
 account. 
 
 The perambulation of the " swearing hill " being finished, the 
 caboceers began a march round the square. Each was followed 
 by a number of his wives, dressed in rich costumes, and carrying 
 boxes like brandy cases, in each of which several " changes of 
 raiment " were displayed. A band preceded each officer, and an 
 umbrella bearing the heraldic insignia of the owner was carried 
 and twirled by a slave. As each caboceer arrived in front of the 
 king he danced, " ko didied," and called out sundry strong names, 
 being rewarded by a bottle of rum, which was sent from the 
 royal shed by the hands of a Dahkro. This ceremony was per- 
 formed six times by each caboceer, the di-esses and umbrellas 
 being changed with each round. On the seventh circuit each 
 officer appeared riding his horse, which he had redeemed, the 
 Sogan heading the procession on a chestnut nag, the Ningan and 
 the Adonejan being conspicuous in immense black felt broad-brims. 
 While this pageant wont the round of the square, the junior 
 officers received their horses from the hands of the Sogan's 
 assistants ; and when the circumambulation of the seniors was 
 completed, they mounted, and, joining the others, proceeded to 
 the front, where they alighted and, arranging themselves in a 
 semicircle, began a song as follows : — 
 
 Gelele took our horses as his father Gezii did, 
 But he has allowed us to have them back again, 
 So we will fight for him and break Abeokeuta. 
 
 Each of the head officers then spouted a string of blarney in suc- 
 cession, finishing off their speeches with a dance. 
 
 While this speechifying was under weigh, the king's head 
 smoker was prowling about with an immense wooden pipe, from 
 which he blew clouds of smoke in the faces of whomsoever he 
 chose. His uniform was of broAvn cloth, sewn all over with long 
 strips, in imitation of tobacco leaves ; and his only ornament was
 
 CHAP. X. GELELE-S WAR-DANCE. 225 
 
 a necklace of pipe bowls. When the orations closed, the caboceers 
 formed another procession, all on foot, and with a final strong- 
 name shout took their scats among their respective slaves. 
 
 The Tononun then appeared, looking more haggard than usual. 
 He took up the three calvariae, and after putting the bamboos be- 
 hind them they were carried off by his myrmidons. Presently the 
 ministers retired, and soon appeared at the head of a procession. 
 After them came a number of slaves, the three first carrying the 
 brass-mounted skulls, and the following forty-sis bearing cala- 
 bashes called mentadoMmen, each containing about ten skulls, 
 all boiled, clean -scraped, and polished. The Gbwewedo, with 
 fourteen eunuchs, brought this procession to a close. They 
 marched four times round the square, and at the end of the last 
 round placed the grim trophies along the bamboo-poles, which 
 were then lifted over them to the men's side. The Dahkros and 
 other Amazons then carried them off, and deposited them in a row 
 before the Pwc shed. 
 
 Gelele thou came to the front, and calling for Bakoko's skull, 
 began a war dance — toying -with the relic by placing it under his 
 arm, setting it on the ground, and jumping over it, or holding it 
 out at arm's-length, and apostrophising it. A deafening round of 
 applause arose from the multitude, and guns and strong names 
 were let off con amove. Their excitement rose to its highest 
 pitch, when Gelele, holding out the cup from the skull, drank 
 perdition to Abeokeuta, in a bumper of trade rum. As was the 
 case when Burton witnessed this ceremony, the skull was then 
 sent to us, to pledge the monarch, but we preferred to fill our 
 tumblers with muscatel, and pouring a portion in the skull goblet, 
 to drink the remainder from the glass. Upon this, Gelele 
 publicly announced that he conferred upon me the strong name 
 of " Adanaievido," or " Son of the strong heart for drinking 
 health." 
 
 Gelele then retired, and a procession of Amazons was formed, 
 which advanced from the palace-gate, and marched before the 
 king. First, came eight Bassajch, or fetiche -women, who
 
 226 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap, x 
 
 represent the ghosts of the deceased kings. They were dressed 
 in white robes, turned up with blue, and wore black felt steeple- 
 crowned hats, the rims being bound with gold lace. Each carried 
 a long fochoi-kpo, or fetiche-stick, and their faces were concealed 
 by veils of thick grey muslin. Twenty-two Amazons then 
 followed, bearing the mentadokanien, each "s\ath twelve crania in it. 
 The Yavedo and her lieutenant brought up the rear with their 
 company of female eunuchs. After a walk round, the Bassajeh 
 halted before the king, who advanced, and solemnly shook hands 
 with his ancestors, through the medium of these women, holding 
 their hands above their heads. After the skulls were deposited 
 behind the preceding lot, a number of slaves came filing 
 in, carrjang a series of eight stools, umbrellas, mat-covered 
 bundles, calabash baskets, and a quantity of cooked meats, rum, 
 and other liquors, together Avith pipes, and tobacco-pouches, a 
 band of miscellaneous instruments bringing up the rear. As each 
 series passed, the Bassajeh bowed to them, and the Tansi-no, 
 who sat near the tall telegraph fetiche, sang a mournfiil song to 
 the memory of the departed kings. 
 
 The Amazonian Ningan, the Gundeme, followed by the 
 Akpadume, the Khetungan, and the fat old Nadudeagoh, or 
 Avogan's mother, then marched past, each with her umbrella, band, 
 and retinue. All danced, dusted themselves, and sang a song ; 
 afterwards taking up their position to the king's proper 
 right. 
 
 A number of baskets containing cowries threaded in strings of 
 forty-six on twisted grass were then brought in ; and the 
 " Gobbonites," prepared to guard the sacred bamboos, by 
 stationing themselves in a line along them, shaking their whips 
 with an ominous jerk. The king then advanced to the line, and 
 as he approached, the caboceers removed their necklaces and 
 tunics, and clad in drawers alone, prepared to " fight for their 
 king and their cowries." Burton says, nob and snob join in the 
 melee, but I think he is in error. I never saw the " upper ten," 
 und the "million," squabble together. These scrambles are no
 
 CHAP. X. A COWRIE SCRAMBLE, 227 
 
 jokes among the canaille, wlio strip naked, save a coarse waist- 
 cloth, like sacking, wkicli is formed into a bag to hold the spolia. 
 Fights are the order of the day, some bringing in the aid of 
 teeth and nails, the petty officers being mounted on the shoulders 
 of their subordinates. Such barbarities, as eye-gouging, as 
 mentioned, in some accounts, are however, unknown. 
 
 Gelele strode to the front, in a pagne of pink cotton, 
 with a crimson shoulder-belt, having a silver-hilted knife, 
 knotted at the end of it. He wore a yellow and scarlet- striped 
 smoking cap, and was shaded by a violet parasol and four 
 gaudy umbrellas, which were supported by Amazonian dames. 
 The baskets were brought to the king by soldieresses, and 
 bunches of cowries handed to him by two Dahkros, one on 
 either side. 
 
 The bunches were thrown hap-hazard. among the nobles, who 
 tumbled over each other in eager scrambles, after the Royal bounty. 
 About five pounds' worth of cowries were thrown ; the time 
 occupied in so doing, being about an hour, by the end of which 
 the beau ton of Dahomey were in a state of transition, between. 
 flesh and mud, being stained deep red by the soil, which adhered 
 to their reeking bodies. 
 
 The governor and I were then summoned to the front, and 
 cowries were thrown for us to- scramble for. The governor 
 did not enter into the thing at all, upon which a jester came up, 
 and stole half of those that fell near him, adding insult to injury 
 by calling out " engeh, coward." 
 
 I was dismissed with a present of forty heads, which were 
 carried off by my people, while the governor had only a pass of 
 ten heads, and a miscellaneous handful of loose cowries. 
 
 The Ambassadors and " Strangers " were then summoned, and 
 had their scramble, the Ashantees, Houssas, and other chiefs, 
 receiving a few heads as dismissal. 
 
 The king then wallvcd up to the victim shed for his own 
 Custom, and dashed several heads of cowries to the unfortunate 
 wretches therein. These were picked up by the guards, and
 
 228 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 placed upon tlic heads of the victims. He afterwards threw a 
 couple of heads of cowries to each of the morituri in the bush- 
 king's and the people's victim sheds. 
 
 Our chairs were then placed close to the bamboo barrier, and 
 the mob advanced. After throwing cowries for about half-an- 
 hour, several Amazons were deputed to reheve the king of this 
 severe labour ; Gelele standing by as arbiter elegantiarum. 
 The struggle was severe — a mass of arms and legs appearing 
 here and there, as the mass swayed to and fro, after fighting for 
 ten minutes over a single cowrie. Broken noses and bleeding 
 skins were to be seen on every side, as the multitude screamed 
 out, when a head of cowries was fairly caught by any one — that 
 being tacitly understood to establish a right to the undisputed 
 possession of the prize, the winners going outside the melee, and 
 smothering themselves with dust at the king's largesse. The 
 long walked up and down the bamboo line, throwing cowries here 
 and there ; and I noticed sundry Amazons slyly throw bunches 
 at the governor, who sat in sullen dignity, tormented by the 
 grimaces of two Menhoblutoh, who, according to court custom, 
 were mimicking everybody ; and, as the governor, by his stolid 
 ill-temper, offered the best chance of fun, he was baited all the 
 more accordingly. Entre nous I never saw a person less fitted to 
 hold intercourse with a semi-savage race, than this noli-me- 
 tangcre governor. 
 
 During the cowrie fighting the hunchback guard were busily 
 engaged in indiscriminately administering swinging blows with 
 their whips upon the naked bodies of all who came into a too 
 close proximity with the bamboos. 
 
 The cowrie throwing continued for four hours, by which time 
 it was quite dark, and we were not a Httle deHghted to receive 
 our usual pass ram, and go home to dinner. 
 
 THE MINOKYANAN GBE.— THE AMAZONS WILL DANCE TO-DAY. 
 
 The next day was devoted to the recruiting of the strength of 
 all parties, both king, lords, and commons — and on the tenth of
 
 CHAP. X. MOURNING FOR THE OLD KINGS. 229 
 
 September we proceeded to tlie Uhuuglo market, where tlie prince 
 had been throwing cowries to the night-guard on the night follow- 
 ing that on which his father had been " dashing " these valuables 
 in the Uhonnukon. I here saw nine gallows-like frames, composed 
 of two upright poles with a cross-bar at the top, and three with a 
 second bar midway between the upper one and the ground. Besides 
 these there were two other gaUows with a double cross-bar at the 
 top. Each of these ominous erections was guarded b}' Bo-fetiche, 
 and between them a flagstaff carrying a white tablecloth was 
 planted. The gallows were at intervals of fifty yards, and ex- 
 tended down the main road to Abomey ; while the double crossed- 
 barred frames were erected in the market-place. They were all 
 fenced in by the usual bamboo and grass rope, '' tie-tie." 
 
 We then proceeded to the Coomassie Uhonnukon, and found 
 the caboceers dressed in their oldest and shabbiest attire, with 
 torn umbrellas and rusty worn-out muskets. 
 
 A group of the Boasting or Braggadocio company, in calabash 
 masks, were buffooning before the king, who, like his chiefs, was 
 also dressed in a ragged suit. This moui'ning was to commemorate 
 the death of the king's ancestors, who are supposed to grieve for 
 a restitution of their earthly grandeur, which will not be restored 
 to them unless their representative on earth continues to supply 
 them with fresh slaves. The Tononun and his eunuchs, assisted 
 by the hunchbacks, then enlarged the boundaries of the bamboo 
 line, our chairs being set back to the fetiche trees. A band of 
 " ichenuJcIiodotoIi,'" or bards, afterwards advanced and squatted 
 down before the king and sang the following song ; a single note 
 being struck as a kind of time measure on a gong-gong during 
 its performance. 
 
 " Our king is great and loves his fathers' memory, 
 He wished to make his fathers happy, 
 So he has made a Custom to show them that he is mindful 
 Of their requests." 
 
 At the conclusion of this balladanumber of Amazon chieftainesses 
 marched in solemn gait round the bamboo enclosure, singing a
 
 230 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM, chap. x. 
 
 song the drift of wliicli "was that they had no reason to wish 
 themselves out of the country, for Gelel^ was so mindful of his 
 father's wishes that he would alwaj^s rememher the people. I 
 could not see the logic of this myself, and so asked Beecham for 
 an explanation, but that worthy said " you must not ask such 
 tilings." I verily believe he was as afraid of the fetiche as the 
 greatest idolater in Dahomey, his missionaiy education notwith- 
 standing. 
 
 When this company arrived in front of Gezu's ghost shed they 
 bowed, and, bending low, shovelled up the dust over their heads. 
 Then holding their aiTas pointing to the sky they walked round 
 the enclosure, repeating their song in a minor key. 
 
 A burst of music succeeded this tragic display, and after bowing 
 to the king the singers sat down to the left. A large band of rattles, 
 gong-gongs, and drums then took up their position on the right, 
 and a corps cle hallct came before us. These dancers were dressed 
 in showy skirts of figured chintz, no two performers wearing the 
 same pattern. Waistcoats of white cotton, open at the breast, 
 and confined round the middle by sashes of various colours, 
 allowed free motion in the limbs. Their necks were encu"cled by 
 small necklaces of bright-coloured beads, and most of them wore 
 anklets of similar make. Two tall dames,dressed in velvet, with a 
 chaplet of scarlet beads roimd their heads, and bearing horse-tail 
 whisks, like East Indian chauries, mounted in wooden silver-ringed 
 handles, directed the movements of the dancers, who began their 
 pcrfonnance by ranging themselves in a Kne with their faces 
 turned to the king. 
 
 The band strack up and the ballet began, the mistresses of the 
 dance giA'ing the cue from either end. The first figure consisted 
 of a series of shufilings performed by each dancer in succession, 
 beginning at the end of the line. This being over, they com- 
 menced leaping and squatting in a manner that made one's knees 
 ache to look at ; at one time bending nearly to the ground, and 
 then springing eighteen inches into the air from that constrained 
 position. Another series of ecarts followed, and then the figure
 
 CHAP. X. BALLET OF THE AMAZONS. 231 
 
 changed. Two of the performers would go to the band, and 
 commence to sing the new tune, beating the time with their 
 hands until the musicians picked it up. They usually commenced 
 with words in the JS^ago language, "0 nujoh cheyoh, a gan dcmeh^ a 
 ivheh ! wheh ! tcheh ! " the three last words corresponding to stac- 
 cato movements in the band, and hops in the ballet. When 
 sehf tcehf weh! was called, the band gave a loud prolonged 
 crash of rattles, and the performers went through an undulating 
 movement with their bodies, their hind-quarters being lasciviously 
 moved from front to rear, while they inflated or expelled the air 
 from their lungs. If the band did not play to the satisfaction of 
 the mistresses of the ballet, they would yell out the time, beating 
 their hands together and slapping their posteriors in a manner 
 calculated to make anyone smile. 
 
 Other figures followed, some resembling the actions of a person 
 trying to fly or swim on dry land ; others consisted in a series of 
 hops to one side, a shuffling of the dust, and a hop back again. 
 A third figure was a violent jerking of the body to the right, a 
 right-about face, and a similar feat to the left. Another, again, 
 consisted of a shuffling of the feet while their heads were bent 
 down, first on one side and then on the other ; the performances 
 being first gone through facing the king, and then with their 
 backs turned towards him. Another feature was the scraping of 
 the body in various parts by the fingers ; picking up a handful of 
 sand, throwing it away, and repeating the same performance with 
 the face turned towards another quarter. After three houi's of 
 this violent exercise they advanced at a 2)as cle charge, and, 
 saluting the king, retired, no doubt feeling as much relief as we 
 did. There was very little to admire in the display, except the 
 gymnastic and salutary influences induced by it ; the whole idea 
 seeming to be to keep perfect unison in the most corybantic actions. 
 
 Several captains then advanced, headed by the Ningan, and 
 an hour was consumed by their speechifying, the theme being 
 the never-ending one of Abeokcuta. Yells of ** Aheokeuta 
 menaiye" "we will go to Aheokeuta," with a short speech
 
 232 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. x. 
 
 accompanied by such violent thumping of the breast and gesticu- 
 lating, that the orator appeared to be either in a terrible passion 
 or a madman, interlarded the more elaborate orations of the 
 generals ; the end of each talk being a copious dirt bath. All 
 this was vox et prderea nihil, for similar displays were made before 
 Burton, the result of theii' braggadocio being their defeat before 
 the Avails of Abeokeuta. In Dahomey great things are alway 
 going to be done — everything is in fiituro both with the king 
 and the people — with war palaver and with the smallest trade 
 palaver, nothing can be done at the time, but everything must 
 be put oif to the auspicious future. 
 
 At length Gelele, laying aside his pipe, said that he was 
 ashamed to hear such talk from men who had not fulfilled their 
 promise to bring back Abeokeuta as Gezu had done with some 
 of the towns of his enemies. He did not believe them, but 
 thought they were all cowards and afraid to fight. 
 
 A perfect uproar of indignant ofiicers and men then raged 
 through the audience ; all declaring that if he would only lead 
 them to Abeokeuta they would pull it down without guns ; 
 while one man took an oath that if Gelele would only take him 
 to Abeokeuta, he, single-handed, would bring in a score heads 
 to be ransomed. The women taunted the men from time to 
 time, gi^^ing them the names of sheep, A"ultures, and similar 
 epithets, telling them that they were women, and must learn to 
 fight for them, the men. On these occasions the men did not 
 make any reply, that being contrary to all precedent. 
 
 A song was then given by the generals, of which the following 
 was the pith : — 
 
 Gelele must lead us to Abeokeuta, 
 
 That we may break it so that it shall be irreparable. 
 
 We will then give him plenty of skulls for Gezu's grave. 
 
 Gelele afterwards arose, and coming to the front, said — '' You 
 have promised to fight like heroes. I will soon lead you to the 
 Abeokeutas, where you can prove your words by your actions. 
 A'ultures can croak, but eagles alone slay living creatures."
 
 CHAP. X. PROCESSION OF COWRIE WOMEN. 233 
 
 A furious uproar of yells, strong names, gun firing, and Bloa 
 Blooing followed this announcement ; some testifying tteir joy 
 by a deluge of sand, while others rushed frantically about in all 
 directions, telling everybody that they were going to smash 
 Abeokeuta single-handed. 
 
 A chorus of Nago songs followed this excitement ; and after- 
 wards the king ordered the bards to sing the national war-songs,. 
 detailing the victories of the kings of Dahomey. Their recital 
 appeared to rouse the king to a frenzy, for he came out, and 
 amidst ■sdolent gesticulations, jumping, and breast-beating, de- 
 clared that Abeokeuta must be destroyed. A few heads of 
 cowries were then distributed to the bards, and Gelele sat down. 
 A second company of bards then sang the praises of the king, and 
 his conquests of the Nago and other tribes, which appeased the 
 royal mind. 
 
 The panigan-hun-toh then proclaimed ** Oyez" and Gelele 
 made another warlike speech, and the jesters again appeared, and 
 pretended to be deaf and dumb. 
 
 Meanwhile a procession of princesses filed in from the king's 
 left, and after bowing in front of the king sang one of the 
 national war-songs, Abeokeuta being the subject. The bamboo- 
 sticks were then moved to a greater distance from the king, the 
 neutral Tononun operating, and occasionally tinkhng his bell. 
 Then came in a batch of fifty-six women, each carrpng a head 
 of cowries on her head, followed by as many more bearing a 
 double handful of the shell coin in a calabash. A band of gong- 
 gongs and drums preceded a deputation of the aged mothers of 
 the high dignitaries of state, who were followed by thirty girls, 
 each carrying two heads of cowries. Forty-two girls, carrying 
 bottles of rum on their heads, followed, and were succeeded by 
 thirty others with twenty strings of cowries on their pates. 
 
 Sixty women bearing calabashes with a head of cowries in 
 each preceded the Gundeme and the Akpadume, and the rear 
 was brought up by another gong-gong band. This procession 
 marched thrice round the square chanting the exploits of the
 
 234 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM, chap. x. 
 
 departed monarelis, and saluting the king as they passed his stool 
 by crouching in the dust. These cowries were deposited in the 
 hands of the Videkalo, the female treasurer, and will be dashed 
 to the officiating caboceers on the Evil Night, when the gallows 
 in the market will receive their fearfol burdens. 
 
 More chanting succeeded, and at last, to our joy, we saw the 
 long- wished for decanters of rum being handed from the English 
 mother to our Dahkro ; and in a few minutes we were en route 
 for our quarters, having been warned that we were not to leave 
 the premises to-morrow, as it was a dies irce, and no one was to 
 be seen abroad.
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM— (coHimwerf). 
 
 Sixth Section of the Kinc/s So-Sin Custom. — Difficulty in preventing- the human 
 sacrifices — Abeokeuta as bad as Dahomey — Exag^g-erated accoionts of the 
 sacrifices— The king's statement resi^ecting them — 111 effects of Bemasko's 
 example — Ceremonies of the " evil night." 
 
 Seventh mul Last Section of the Eing's So-Sin Custom. — Victims in the Uhunglo 
 market — A horrible mark of favour— More victims — The Coomassie palace 
 — Splendid pavilion — Curious artillery — The Bush king's seat — King's 
 fetiche — Gelele's appearance — Parade of ministers in state robes — 
 The war captains — The inferior officers — The eunuchs — Parade of 
 Amazonian ministers, captains and officers — Undress review of men and 
 Amazons — Grotesque appearance of some of them — Speeches of the two 
 Ningans— Tiffin — Procession of the king's wealth — Powerful fetiche — 
 Razor women— Gelele's tomb ornaments — The Gbeto, or elephant hunters 
 — State chariots — King's leopard wives — Tail dancers — Mothers of the 
 kings— Throwing cowries in the market — Conclusion of the King's So-Sin 
 Custom. 
 
 The reader has already been informed that one of the greatest 
 obstacles to the total suppression of the human sacrifices at 
 Dahomey is the fact that the monarch has a bond fide belief, 
 misplaced and fallacious, no doubt, but none the less genuine, 
 that by so doing he is carrying out an act of filial piety, such as 
 devolves upon every dutiful son to perform for the memory of his 
 father. As Burton truly observes, " the king takes no pleasure in 
 the tortures and death of the victims, or in the sight of blood." 
 On the contrary, I have seen him turn from the execution scene 
 ■\nth a shudder, and in every case the victim's passage to the 
 other world is as speedy as that by hanging or other orthodox 
 mode of capital punishment.
 
 236 THE SO-SIX CUSTOK chap. xi. 
 
 In Ashanti a man is sacrificed every morning, except on the 
 king's birth-days, ^Yllich are held every eighth day ; and the death 
 of every high functionary demands the decapitation of one or 
 more victims to accompany him to Dcadland. Other nations, 
 notably the Peruvians and the Mexicans, were notorious for their 
 human sacrifices, while the Druid priests of our own island are 
 known to have immolated scores of wi-etched bemgs in wicker 
 baskets, a wholesale holocaust to their gods. To this day the 
 Abeokeutans, after having had missionaries resident among 
 them for years, have a *' a basket sacrifice," as they euphemisti- 
 cally call it. Yet for them the facts are deceptively glossed over 
 by the missionaries, who, with characteristic '' cant," have spoken 
 of Abeokeuta as " a place specially favom-ed in the conversion of 
 the heathen ; " while for Dahomey and Ashanti, which have only 
 had the worst specimens of Christian teachers as their instructors 
 in a new faith, the most outrageous tales have been promul- 
 gated ; many of them so founded upon facts as to leave little 
 doubt of their veracity until investigated by unbiassed persons. 
 For instance, we have been told that the King of Dahomey 
 walked to his throne along a pathway ankle-deep in human 
 gore, and that he afterwards killed 2000 innocent persons in a 
 single day, and paddled about in a canoe, floated on a lake of 
 their blood. Such horrors were calculated to deter any person 
 from putting himself into the power of such a monstrum Jiorren- 
 dum milld virtiite redemptum a viiiis. 
 
 Do the Dahomans, in their wars, approach anything like the 
 wholesale slaughter of the Israelites, or do they inflict such 
 tortures upon their prisoners as those suficred by prisoners in 
 the Tower of London ? It is but fair to state all the surround- 
 ings of such facts as these human sacrifices, and though they are 
 to be deplored, nevertheless they are not the mere vents of a 
 cruel, bloodthirsty mind. When we consider that there is no 
 torture accompanying the executions, and that every person 
 decapitated has a sure passport to a better world, the loss of his 
 head being supposed to be a full expiation of all his sins ; besides
 
 CHAP. XI. A PLEA FOR DAHOMEY. 
 
 the overwlielinuig fact that they are only a part of a religio 
 ceremony, we can but confess that they are not one whit moi^e 
 barbarous than the suttee of the Hindoo, and far less so than the 
 incarceration of an un\^alling maiden within the loathsome walls 
 of a Popish nunnery. Matters have considerably improved in 
 Dahomey since men's heads were used as ornaments to a wall, 
 the wretched prisoners being sacrificed for that object alone, as 
 was the case a century ago. 
 
 The only chance of effectually putting down the sacrifices is 
 to show the Dahomans the errors of their polytheistic faith, and 
 this must be done by sending intelligent instructors among them, 
 not such bare-faced hj^ocrites as are at the present time located 
 at AYhydah. 
 
 A man who, by his example would show the Dahomans the 
 good fruits of Christianity, would do far more towards converting 
 the people than a score of the dictatorial text-quoting individuals 
 who try to convert a nation on the t'eni, vidi, vici principle. 
 Gelele himself would gladly abolish this part of the custom, and 
 risk the displeasure of his deceased predecessors, as he knows ; 
 that their continuance is one of the main causes of his kingdom 
 being avoided by Europeans, but he is afraid that if he were 
 to hint at such a proceeding he would be dethroned, and the 
 conservative party at once ascend the stool. If the English 
 would but assist him to maintain his position during the struggle, 
 all might be well ; but we can hardly suppose that the king 
 Avill risk his position "without some extraneous aid, knowing that 
 even if he maintained his authority his victory would be almost 
 as disastrous in its effects to the country as his defeat. 
 
 Such persons as the Bernaskos are calculated to frustrate every 
 endeavour of laymen to bring about the much desired change. 
 Gelele himself said to me upon one occasion, when I had been 
 speaking to him on the subject of the executions, "You say that 
 your people abhor the thoughts of men being sacrificed ; that 
 their religion teaches them such things are contrary to the Mall 
 of the Divine Being. Now, we have a * God man ' at
 
 238 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap, xi. 
 
 Wliydah, and does ho set sucli an example to my people as I 
 would wish them to follow? Does he not drink till he talks 
 foolishness ? Does he not make plenty of mischief by his tale- 
 bearing, and has he not told lies to the English people about me 
 and my countrj' ? Do not all the white men in Whydah hate 
 him ? How then can I believe your religion to be better than 
 mine when your God men are such people ? " What could I say 
 to so forcible an argument as this ? Gelele said that he always 
 liked the English, but that their " God people " always created 
 as much disturbance as the " war enemies " of his country. 
 Happy will be the day for Dahomey when she receives a con- 
 scientious missionary on her shores ! 
 
 THE ZAN MEN HUWU WONH.— THE NIGHT FOR THE OMINOUS 
 HUMAN SACRIFICE. 
 
 But, to get on with the Custom. The day preceding the last 
 day of the So-Sin custom is what might be termed a " fast 
 day" in Dahomey. No person is allowed to go about any 
 business or be seen abroad except when engaged upon the king's 
 palavers. No person is allowed to fire any gun or light any fire, 
 and the males and females in every house are supposed to sleep 
 apart. During the day we heard the heralds crying out the strong 
 names of the king, and the death-drum tolled the knell of many 
 a poor wretch. 
 
 At night the king, clothed in fetiche dress, accompanied by 
 his wives, will march in a procession by torchhght from the 
 victim sheds to the Uhunglo market. There he will be received 
 by the Ningan, the Meu, the Agasunno, and other high officials 
 who have brought the required number of victims from the 
 king's private shed near the Coomassie palace. There before 
 the Tansino and Bassajeh he will cut off the head of a mes- 
 senger, after ha\dng given him instructions to acquaint the 
 deceased kings that Gelele is about to sacrifice a number of men 
 who will attend upon them in the unknown world. The 
 traveller is furnished with a head of cowries, a bottle of rum, 
 and some cankies as subsistence bv the wav.
 
 CHAP. XI, DIES IR^. 239 
 
 After he is dispatched upon his long journey, an alligator, a 
 cat, and a hawk are similarly decapitated. The alligator is to 
 inform the fish of the occurrence, and a similar message is to be 
 taken to the animals by the cat, and to the birds by the hawk. 
 
 The K"ingan will then proceed to immolate the remaining 
 victims ; striking them on the occiput with a heavy knobbed 
 stick which almost instantaneously deprives them of life. They 
 are then mutilated with a curved knife, out of respect to the 
 king's wives, and afterwards fixed to the gallows in the positions 
 they are to occupy. Dui'ing this ceremony the whole of the 
 occupants of the various jails are ranged to witness the execu- 
 tion in order that they may profit by the example of the 
 punishment inflicted upon those who transgress the law. 
 
 Burton mentions two evil nights, but there are always three, 
 one for the king, one for the bush-king, and a third for the 
 people. 
 
 These victims are not hhangod as are the sufferers in the 
 Buddliist festivals, nor is there any eclat attendant upon their 
 death which might excite such a state of frenzy in the victims 
 as to render them comparatively unconscious of pain. 
 
 Including the messengers to the dead, who are dispatched 
 with the most trivial news, such as the arrival of a white man, 
 the marriage of a princess, or the institution of a new dance, the 
 number of lives that are annually forfeited in Dahomey cannot 
 be less than 200, while on extraordinary occasions, such as the 
 Grand Customs, the number must be trebled. 
 
 In the ^actim sheds in the Uhonnukon, there were 50 victims, 
 and as there are an equal number sacrificed for the Amazons 
 within the precincts of the palace, the total number of these 
 morituri was 100. Of these, as will be hereafter seen, G4 
 were spared, making a total of 36 human beings sacrificed for 
 the So-Sin Custom alone. 
 
 This number contrasts favourably with the hundreds who were 
 formerly decapitated at the Customs, besides a still larger number 
 of messengers.
 
 S40 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 At Benin, at the present time, men and women accused of 
 Tjewitching any person are cruelly murdered, but in Dahomey,' 
 although there were several women exposed as -vdctims, they 
 were always pardoned. 
 
 THE MENAIYE ETON MENHUWU UHUXGLO AKHI.— "WE WILL GO 
 
 TO LOOK AT THE SACRIFICES IN THE UHUNGLO 
 
 IMARKET TO-DAY. 
 
 At 7 o'clock in the morning of the 10th of September, 1871, 
 a troop of the blue company assembled at my house to conduct 
 me through the TJhunglo market. As we passed the house 
 occupied by the prince, near the south-eastern angle of the 
 Coomassie palace, he came out to accompany us. The road still 
 remained fenced off by the frail grass-rope, and we passed on the 
 eastern side of it, where a passage had been left for the traffic 
 between Abomey and the southern suburbs. 
 
 We soon came up to a Nesu temple — a long barn with the 
 front supported by a row of barked tree trunks, and the back 
 wall covered with rude paintings in distemper of men and 
 animals. Just beyond this holy building was a tall flagstaff, 
 crooked as usual, from which a large white sheet was flying. 
 
 A few yards to the north we came upon the first victim, a fine 
 stalwart fellow, suspended by the anldcs and knees to the cross- 
 pole of one of the gallows. His arms hung limp, and the eyes 
 ^ were staring with a glassy look, while his mouth was pegged 
 "^^ open, as were all the others. This was done to show that in 
 ^ death they repented of their crimes, and wished to warn the 
 ^ Q people in the market against falling under the king's just dis- 
 I pleasure. All were stark naked, and showed no signs of the 
 * _^ knife, save the mutilation before mentioned, and a slow drip, 
 ^ drip of dark-coloured blood from the mouths and nostrils, and 
 
 "^ / the fractured occiputs, showed that they had been killed by the 
 V I knobbed club. 
 
 Two other gallows beyond have the same ghastly fruit, and 
 opposite the TJhunglo gate of the Coomassie palace two victims 
 depended from the same cross-pole. These were two Abeokeuta
 
 THE SO-SIX VICTIMS. 
 
 241 
 
 -oldiers wlio had been taken in ambush at one of the outlying 
 ^'illages near the eastern frontier. 
 
 Five single bodies depended from as many gallows in a circle, 
 opposite the Ako-chyong bonun, the south-eastern gate of Abomey. 
 The next was the king of a small village called Salu, which had 
 Ijcen broken during the past year for treacherously murdering 
 some of the Dahoman people. This victim was dressed in a 
 white waistcoat and blue body-cloth, and was suspended in a 
 
 Tin: SO-SIN VICTIMS. 
 
 horizontal position from two cross-bars placed a few inches apart. 
 
 His neck was lashed by grass-rope to one of the poles, and a 
 
 strong nail passed through his ankles, his feet being placed 
 
 one over the otlicr, while several cords passed round his body 
 
 and prevented it from drooping. One arm dangled listlessly 
 
 towards the earth, while the other was lashed to his side. The 
 
 cross-bars were concealed by a blue and scarlet cloth edged with 
 
 a black and white checked print, and the whole bore no incon- 
 
 It
 
 2[J THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 sidcraT)lo resemblance to a hearth-rug with the l)ocly placed 
 before it. 
 
 The next gallows, also a double one, was supporting one of the 
 late Katu chiefs who had been convicted of treachery. lie was sus- 
 pended horizontally before a green and white hearth-rug, but 
 both lii.s arms drooped towards the ground. 
 
 At the north and south ends of the market stood the double- 
 barred gallows before mentioned. Upon each of the cross polos 
 two small caboceer's stools were fixed, and upon them, clothed in 
 the striped garments they wore when sitting under the \ictim 
 shed at Coomassie, were six wretched beings. Their arms were 
 pinioned, and the gags still remained in their mouths, while the 
 white nightcaps they still retained formed a grim contrast to their 
 livid countenances. 
 
 It will be thus seen that eighteen ^ictims were oflPered up in the 
 market-place to the deceased monarchs on the king's evil night. 
 Of these, fourteen were criminals, and the remaining four prisoners 
 of war. The people passed to and fro, utterly ignoring the pre- 
 sence of the grim fruit each gallows bore, and several vultures 
 were already busy at their work of destruction. The prince told 
 me that he was authorised by the king to permit me to walk ui\- 
 derneath the todies, if I so pleased, but I begged to decline the 
 honour, and told him that I could not look upon such a revolting 
 spectacle except with abhorrence, and that so long as they con- 
 tinued such practices, so long would the English and every other 
 white nation avoid Dahomey. 
 
 AVe then rctm-ned to our quarters, and after breakfast pre- 
 pared to see the procession, which has been called by former 
 travellers the " Procession of the king's wealth." We started for 
 the Coomassie palace about ten o'clock, and on reaching the square 
 found the governor already arrived. A messenger then came out, 
 and informed us that the king wished us to inspect the victim 
 sheds. AVe accordingly went towards the ominous structures, 
 followed by the usual crowd, but when we came near the edge of 
 the raised earthen floor, from which the railings bad been re-
 
 iiAP. XI. INSPECTION OF THE VICTIM SHEDS. 243 
 
 moved, the old Tononiin appeared with two of his myrmidons 
 and fenced oS the sacred gronud with a row of bamboo poles. 
 Then lifting one of them up and tinkling his bell, he motioned our 
 party to advance, and when we had all passed through, effectually 
 barred all intrusion by simply laying down his bamboo. We 
 found the sheds emptied of their occupants, and were informed 
 that the king had graciously pardoned the remaining eight out of 
 the thirty-eight victims we noticed at the beginning of the Custom. 
 "We observed nothing beyond Avhat has already been described, 
 except that on the front of the shed, fixed on an iron frame like 
 an immense egg boiler, were five large silver, blue, and gold 
 globe reflectors, like those in vogue as ornaments to public- 
 house lamps and Christmas trees. These were exhibited as a 
 marvellous example of the wealth of the king. The umbrellas 
 and guns were duly pointed out, and after a thorough overhaul of 
 the premises we returned to our chairs. In a few minutes we 
 were summoned inside the palace. Before the striped Bo-so 
 altars were twelve heads stuck in the little heaps of earth before- 
 mentioned with the faces downwards, leaving the occiput and 
 back part of the neck visible in all its gory horror. There were 
 six of these on each side of the gate. These were the heads of 
 criminals who had been despatched by the Agusunno and his 
 assistants in front of the gate, to inform the departed kings that 
 their living representative w^as about to send them their annual 
 batch of recruits. 
 
 Together with the market victims, a total of thirty wretches 
 lost their lives during the king's So-Sin Custom. 
 
 The entrance to the palace was through the Pwe shod and a 
 dismal archway with a creaking wooden gate at each end. On 
 emerging into the courtyard, or notoh, a high wall to the left re- 
 minded me of the side of a factory, at the far end of which a 
 double- storied thatched barn shone out in a fresh coat of white- 
 wash. This was the store-house for the cloth, cowries, and rum, 
 to be used in the Custom. Two windows, closed by leaden- 
 coloured shutters, flanked a door which was reached by a prirai-
 
 244 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 tivo ladder — two tall trees -o-itli the rungs nailed across. The 
 thatched roof of the gate shed bordered the southern side, "while 
 the eastern view extended to the red swish wall of the palace. 
 Several trees were scattered at intervals on the right centre, each 
 with its little earthen divinity, and a number of terrific swish images 
 scared us to the extreme right, the most noticeable being a 
 Siamese- t"«'in deity with stag's heads. 
 
 Opposite us a large oblong building had been erected, eighty 
 feet long, and twelve feet to the upper floor, which was supported 
 by massive posts, connected by cross-beams securely fixed with 
 grass rope. Across the rafters a flooring of boards was fastened, 
 and the whole was covered with a triple series of mats. Above 
 this rose a second row of posts eight feet high, supporting the 
 eaves of a thatched roof, the ridge of which was probably foriy- 
 five feet above the ground. The ground-floor posts were shrouded 
 in blue and yellow drapery, and the first floor in white cloths ; 
 several openings for windows being formed in the side, and edged 
 with a narrow blue and scarlet striped border. The roof was 
 covered with a black and crimson cloth, and from the gables two 
 small white flags bearing crimson heraldic eagles were displayed. 
 
 A rude ladder led up to the door in the centre of the shed, and 
 several gaudy umbrellas were placed as a canopy in front of the 
 entrance. At the foot of the ladder the usual Bo-so altars, and 
 other fetiche emblems were set out, and a body of Amazons 
 squatted on either side. xV wall of matting cut ofi" the court-yard 
 level with the front of the shed ; several large mats hung from 
 grass ropes officiating as doors in the fence. Finally, the cabo- 
 ceers formed a gay verandah, with their umbrellas on the south 
 side of the courtyard, opposite the shed ; and beneath them, the 
 upper ten of Dahomey sat awaiting their lord, suri'ounded by their 
 vassals. Our umbrellas were placed on the right close by the 
 trees, and the table was covered with a scarlet and yellow 
 cloth. 
 
 In the centre of the courtyard two jesters, sienna coloured by 
 reason of their copious sand baths, were dancing and bufiboning
 
 CHAP. XI. A NOVEL BATTERY. 245 
 
 round a little black image representing a kneeling soldier, holding 
 his head in his outstretched arms. On each side of this deity was 
 a gun, stuck muzzle upwards, and having a brazen arrow fixed in 
 the muzzle. From the muzzle to the trigger-guard, a crimson 
 cord extended, and was stretched tight by a brazen arrow, the 
 whole forming a rude bow. Behind us a line of bamboos shut off 
 a strip of the courtyard some twenty feet broad. Here a collec- 
 tion of artillery was arranged which demands a minute descrip- 
 tion. Resting in the crutches of forked twigs, two to each piece, 
 were fourteen brass blunderbusses and nine musketoons. Two 
 huge guns like baby cannon succeeded, and were followed by a 
 like number of swivel duck-guns of the largest size. A block of 
 wood cut into the semblance of a gun-carriage supported five brass 
 cannon about a foot long, placed side by side, and fired by means 
 of a flint lock which ignited the powder in a hollowed iron trough 
 connecting the touch-holes. Two pistols similarly mounted on a 
 wooden carriage were stationed near them, and in addition to 
 these were two very suspicious pieces of ordnance, bearing a close 
 resemblance to short lengths of stove piping, with a plug at one 
 end for a breech. The artillery men did not appear to have 
 much faith in these Dahoman cannon, for they put but a small 
 quantity of powder in them, which exploded much in the same 
 fashion as a squib. 
 
 To my right, a tattered white umbrella shaded Addokpon's, or 
 the Bush King's seat. A series of mats were spread on the ground, 
 upon which a low stool was placed, also covered "«dth mats. Be- 
 f )re this was a row of the conical iron cressets, which as usual were 
 highly decorated with cowries. A guard of nine priests kept off 
 the rabble, and a small white flag waved over the umbrella. 
 
 Soon after entering, the mat-door to the proper left of the 
 large pavilion was raised, and a band of gong-gong Amazons 
 came out and took up their scats to the right of the steps. 
 Several girls then entered the courtyard, carrying large cala- 
 bashes of provisions and diinkablcs, which were set out before 
 the shed, close to the dividing bamboos. Then a band of the
 
 246 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 Jotosi drummers came in, followed by an armed troop who 
 paraded up and down the courtj^ard, bowing to the Bush King's 
 seat as they passed by it. 
 
 A band of artillery women next came up to the row of guns, 
 and prepared to salute the king as he entered, cocking their 
 pieces and carefully wiping the strikers, while those in charge 
 of the small batteries had smouldering matches ready to let 
 them off. 
 
 In the interval that elapsed between their arrival and the 
 advent of the king I employed myself in examining the royal 
 fetiche, which was on my left. A row of twenty-four t\rin 
 irons of all sizes and shapes, some topped \sith a tortoise, others 
 with a crescent or other emblem, and each with its avo and 
 cotton bag, were ranged in a line behind three little images. 
 The centre one was about three feet high, and represented a man 
 turning the sails of a "windmill, or vice versa ; in fact, an exact 
 imitation of the toys of that description which are sold in every 
 fancy bazaar. The wind turned the sails round, and the man 
 being attached by the arms to the cranked axle, appeared to be 
 at work. This marvellous fetiche was the admiration of all 
 present. The other ten images were of the ordinary kneeling 
 t)'pe. 
 
 Hahansu, in high dudgeon, sent me a coral necklace for my ex- 
 amination, and said that he thought it was not real, as the colour 
 was turning to a dull grey. I told him that it was imitation 
 coral, and he seemed pleased Arith my candour, and said that 
 it was bought at one of the factories at Whydah for the genuine 
 article. 
 
 Presently a movement amongst the gunners and a noise like 
 the firing of a mine announced the approach of the king, who 
 strode along in the midst of his leopard- wives, while the heavily 
 charged guns behind us were fired off. 
 
 He was dressed in a blue and white silk toga, Avith a pork- pie 
 hat of crimson velvet. Drawers of green and scarlet plaid were 
 just visible between the folds of the robe, and beautifully worked
 
 CHAP. XI. ENTRANCE OF THE KING. 247 
 
 sandals covered the royal feet. A massive silver necklace sus- 
 pended a very brassy looking locket, and several bracelets and 
 anklets completed his costume. He carried a kini-kini kpo, or 
 lion stick, and was protected by a violet and yellow silk parasol. 
 A group of attendants, spittoon-bearers, and others surrounded 
 him as he walked to the sticks, where we advanced to meet him. 
 After the usual compliments he said that he wished me to sketch 
 all I saw. He hoped I would not judge them by the same 
 standard as I would Europeans, but hoped I was pleased with 
 what I had seen. 
 
 He then ascended the ladder, and took his seat behind the 
 doorwa}^, his parasol serving to distinguish him from the crowd 
 of sable faces of wives, princesses, and nobles, who had been filing 
 past and taking up their scats within the pavilion. The Dahkros 
 were seated on the steps of the ladder, and the Tansino to the 
 extreme left. 
 
 Opposite us the Moslem visitors were seated, amidst the king's 
 "show Mohammedans," and to our right several of the king's 
 sons were grouped beneath an umbrella, but in no way distin- 
 guished from the common herd. 
 
 The usual cry was then raised, and every head bowed as the 
 king drank his o^\ti health, the conclusion of the ceremony being 
 known by the Dahkros crying " Zin Iqwh " — " daybreak ! " One 
 Dahkro then came up and called Amoosu (who had returned 
 from the coast), and told him that the king would drink our 
 healths. Bumpers of liqueur were then filled and the Governor 
 and I stood up. When the cry went forth every head was 
 turned, except ours, and we tossed off the contents, Geleld doing 
 the same behind the curtain of grey cloth that was held before 
 him by the Amazon guards, so that we could not sec the " Lion '* 
 drink. 
 
 A company of the Whenukohodotoh, or singers, gaily dressed 
 in pink skirts, with silver horns and necklaces, then sang and 
 danced before the king, the leaders having horse-tail fly-flappers, 
 which they waved to and fro in time to the tunc.
 
 248 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 After this the chief officers of state came to the front. They 
 were all splendidly dressed in silk, velvet, or damask robes, 
 shaped like a burnouse, with wide sleeves and skirts hanging 
 down to the heels. All wore their full insignia, this being a 
 state procession. Silver and bead necklaces glittered on all 
 their necks, while the metal gauntlets of the higher officials 
 showed conspicuously upon their dark skins. They formed 
 themselves into a procession, seniors first, and slowly marched 
 round the square against the sun, so as to present the right 
 shoulder to the king. 
 
 First came the xVjakyaho, wearing a crimson figured damask 
 robe. His head was encircled with a yellow fillet, and he bore a 
 long scarlet wand in his right hand, " walking-stick fashion," and 
 in his left a circinal-cnded sword. He walked first in the Coo- 
 massie palace as the landlord of the ground ; otherwise his place 
 is behind the Mcu. Then followed the Ningan, whose robe was of 
 crimson and green striped silk. He wore a silver helmet, with a 
 scarlet crest. He also carried a crimson wand, with a similarly 
 coloured pennon attached to it just below the handle. Being the 
 executioner for the king, he was decorated with a silver skull, 
 hanging from his girdle, from which also dangled a European 
 sabre. 
 
 The Meu succeeded the Ningan, dressed in a crimson and 
 yellow robe. His bullet head was bound by a scarlet fillet, with 
 a small silver dagger stuck in it, on the right side. His wand 
 was like the !N^ingan's, but his sword was a curved one. Then 
 came the "place" of the Avogan, in bright blue striped silk and 
 brass helmet. Followed the fat Adonejan in yellow and green 
 silk, and two immense silver horns. He carried a ciimson-tufted 
 staff", and was followed by the Gaou's place, in a showy yellow 
 damask " aba." The left-general, the Kposu, succeeded, in 
 green and yellow. His horns were highly exalted, although of 
 the mushroom type. 
 
 The Alolokponugan, a brother of the Idng, came next, in blue 
 and yellow, and was succeeded by the Aulinwanun, in crimson and
 
 :.;:J-i'-!S3SESS3*« 
 
 
 2; 
 
 o
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 CHAP. XI. PROCESSION OF MINISTERS. 249 
 
 gold. He carried a scarlet and white striped stick, with a similar 
 pennon. The Tokpo, Binwanton, Aboh, Matro, and a host of other 
 high dignitaries followed, making up a total of sixty-eight. 
 
 All wore showy robes, some carrying daggers hanging from 
 sashes, besides the swords they held in their hands. Some wore 
 horns, others — theAgasunno and the Bukono — half- helmets fixed 
 on the head by leather straps ; some had silver stars fixed to their 
 scalp-locks, while others, again, wore a kind of crown, formed of 
 a hoop of silver, with four others meeting at the top, and sur- 
 mounted by a horn. I saw none of the " dirty trade shirts " 
 mentioned by Burton, all being dressed in their best. As the 
 various members of the procession slowly passed before the king 
 they bowed their heads; and after the third round marched 
 up in a body, and touching the earth with their foreheads, 
 sang a short song complimentary to the king, and ended by 
 shrieking out, " Nquahsliu ! " — a word in the Ashanti language 
 meaning "AVe compliment you — to which the king replied, 
 " IFhohau," meaning " I accept it." They then retired to their 
 umbrellas, and a second procession of the inferior captains then 
 formed, sixty-two in all. 
 
 These carried muskets in place of the swords of the superior 
 troop. The Echille led this file, in a robe and a blue sash. Two 
 Lali, " half-heads," followed, wearing the semi-helmets alluded to 
 in the former procession. There was a greater diversity in this 
 procession than in that of the Ministers. Some prided them- 
 selves in the cast-off tunics of European soldiers, others were 
 dressed in a mixed garb, half civilized, half savage. The 
 Adanmennukon was rigged up in a bright blue tunic, Avith 
 crimson sash and crossbelt, and carried an immense axe over 
 one shoulder and a blunderbuss on the other. His head was 
 encased in a cocked hat. Some wore fillets, others nothinc:. 
 not even hair, while a few were half hidden beneath high broad- 
 Ijrimmcd hats of the cardinal type. The Amma-sin-kpelc, or 
 custodian of the king's medicine, was smartly surmounted by an 
 immense flap hat, the edges of which were valauced and covered
 
 250 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM!. chap. xi. 
 
 with trade looking-glasses, M'bile little fillets of red clotli 
 suspended bits of bright tin from the edges. Two six-footers in 
 black frockcoats of European cut, but sadly deficient in nap, 
 and habited as to their nether limbs in blue petticoats, carried a 
 couple of long buccaneer guns. After them came the scarlet-coated 
 Honjeno and his lieutenant, wearing bright brass helmets, and 
 armed "with two swivel brass guns. The rear was brought up by 
 the Kpofensu,* smoking a sham pipe, and his assistant, who was 
 busily engaged in keeping his pseudo pipe of bone clear of the 
 phantom ashes, whose removal necessitated frequent stoppages 
 and expressive reproofs from his chief. 
 
 A salute followed the third circuit, and the jesters sent the 
 king their donation of a half-rotten yam. 
 
 The last parade of the men's side consisted of a medley of 
 captains, stewards and others. One old soldier carried a peculiar 
 weapon, like a huge pair of scissors ; while the road clearers of 
 the king flourished immense brooms. They were conspicuously 
 dressed in green, and wore brass helmets with black plumes. 
 Some had succeeded in getting old military uniforms, and a fat 
 old fellow was often seen stuffed into a coat four si^jes too small for 
 him, while his successor, a thin slim fellow, was lost in a suit big 
 enough for " the Claimant." Last of all came a number of gaily- 
 dressed fellows, who carried bows and arrows. 
 
 The nimiber of this last procession was twenty-seven, and the 
 parade of each lasted about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 The Tonouun and his company then marched round, the old 
 chief being very tottery. He had on a kind of silver mitre, and 
 carried two immense wooden keys. When they came to salute 
 they sprawled before the king at full length, tinkled their 
 bells, and called out " Frfaleah," " hail, king," to which he 
 replied '\fefale" " hail, I hear or accept." 
 
 The Amazons then struck up a noisy hubbub, and the guns 
 behind us were fired off. The Tononun and his fellows, who 
 had doffed their finery, then spread the bamboos into a circuit 
 • This officer is captain of the blunderbusseers, and head jester also.
 
 251 
 
 similar to that taken by the men, and we prepared to view the 
 [)rocession of the Amazonian ministers. 
 
 The Dahkros and Lali being squatted alternately round the 
 bamboo line, the mat door was raised, and the she ministers, fifty- 
 one in number, came forth in all their " bravery." Like the 
 males they slowly paraded round the enclosure at a funeral 
 pace. 
 
 Their dresses were of a similar cut to those of the " outside," 
 and the colours were as gaudy. First came the she Ajakyaho in 
 a bright scarlet robe, wearing a silver crown and carrying a red 
 staff. Then came the Gundeme, or she Niugan, tottering along 
 under the weight of her rank. She carried a long sickle-shaped 
 sword, as being the Calcraft for the Amazons. The Akpadume, 
 in a blue and orange toga, and a curiously plaited fillet round her 
 head, followed. Then the Kadude-Agoh came before us, swag- 
 gering along in a silver crown and a bright yellow robe. The 
 she Aden ej an succeeded, and was followed by the female repre- 
 sentatives of the first procession of the men. All were provided 
 with daggers, and the head gear was of a similar type to that of 
 their male comrades. 
 
 After the usual three marches round they advanced en masse 
 to the king, saluted and disappeared behind the matting, a band 
 pla}'ing before the king during their exit. 
 
 The Begani, or captainesses, then came on to the scene, armed 
 with muskets, cartridge boxes and bullet pouches. Most of these 
 viragos wore blue robes — but one indi\adual, the third caboceer 
 of Alladah's " mother," shone conspicuously forth in a violet and 
 white checked toga. 
 
 The female druggist wore a skull cap of monkey skin with the 
 head in front — a head-dress similar to that of the Ashanti execu- 
 tioner. Some wore the steeple-crowned witches' hats, mentioned 
 in the male processions ; and two gaunt women, whose mca'J'rc 
 condition contrasted with the general obesity, wore red caps of 
 liberty, like those brewers' draymen affect, but ornamented with a 
 silver fish on each side. Some, again, prided themselves in tall
 
 2o2 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 uight-caps, two especially attracting notice by reason of the black 
 beards of goat skin they wore on their chins. The fetiche priestesses 
 were distinguished by the skuUs that dangled from their sashes, 
 the keeper of the Jaw umbrella, bearing as a coronet the lower 
 jaw of some poor victim. They likewise saluted and retired, 
 and were succeeded by twelve she eunuchs, headed by the 
 Yavedo. All these carried knives with skulls fixed on the hilts, 
 and after tinkling their bells to the king disappeared to the right. 
 
 While these lady members were parading, the ministers and 
 captains were busy disrobing themselves and putting on gala 
 dresses, which they took out of calabashes ready set before them 
 by their vassals. A band of di'ummers and gong-gongs then 
 played a tune, while the jesters roamed about calling out to 
 everybody to look at the great king. 
 
 This over, the ministers again paraded, aU smoking, some 
 long clays, others Gernian painted bowls, some the ordinary 
 native azokweh, while the Chuydatoh and the Adonejan whiiFed 
 cigars — they being " white " men. 
 
 The Men was obscured in a sou'-wester with a scarlet ribbon 
 tied round it. Ningan strutted round in a faded cocked hat, 
 worn, as Burton also remarked, on the wrong side. A grey robe 
 and a yellow jockey's cap adorned the Ajakyaho, while the Adone- 
 jau's fat tub-like person was squeezed into a very Joseph's coat 
 of patchwork, his head being crowned with a straw hat with a 
 glazed top. Wideawakes were quite in demand, twelve nobles 
 being finished off with them. Some wore Crimean shirts of 
 glaring colours over their robes, and one officer was uncomfortable 
 in a square of felt carpet. After the usual marches they advanced 
 to the king, made a charity bow with their hats and retired. 
 
 The captains then paraded, smoking and dressed in a similar 
 style. The most conspicuous get up was a couple of hearth-rugs, 
 worn one before and one behind, and confined round the waist 
 by a scarlet gii-dle. They saluted, dusted themselves, and made 
 way for the eunuchs, who wore nothing out of the way. 
 
 The bamboos were then taken in charge by the Dahkros and
 
 CHAP. XI. SPEECHES BY XIXGAN AXD GUXDEME. 2',^ 
 
 half-breeds, and the Amazonian nobles came in, smoking and 
 dressed up in a corresponding stjde. 
 
 After their exit the whole of the outside nobles assembled 
 before the king, and the Ningan, kneeling while all the others 
 were prostrate, deHvered an oration commencing with '' Aia/i," 
 imitating the voice of a lion ; as upon these occasions the Ningan 
 must talk "lion-mouth,'^ or the king will not understand him. 
 His speech referred to the glory of the kingdom, the downfall of 
 Abeokeuta and other matters ; at the end of which the whole 
 body cheered in a triple series of hand clappings, ending off in a 
 single loud clap, and then copiously dusted their fine robes. 
 
 A similar speech was then delivered by the grey-headed 
 Gundeme, after which the servants of the outside and inside 
 officers brought in calabashes of "chop." The ministers who 
 possessed wives in the inside were served by their royal spouses, 
 who brought the food from the palace, and squatted down before 
 their lords while they partook of their luncheon, bowing to the 
 ground after handing anything to their husbands, although many 
 of them were daughters of the king. 
 
 All these princesses were gaily dressed in rich cloths, and a 
 profusion of necklaces, bracelets and other finery bedecked their 
 swarthy persons. It being the custom for everybody to lunch 
 before the king, his Majesty sent us two calabashes of very 
 savoury viands, and nothing loath we set to with fingers and 
 cankie dippers in the natural style. 
 
 During this interval the various bands played selections of the 
 national music, and the jesters prowled about watching their 
 opportunity to steal a bonne boiiche from any unsuspecting lord, 
 their successful raids being greeted with a round of laughter 
 as they exhibited the morsel before the king, and derided the 
 loser. 
 
 A series of " Ahgos," " n'dabohs," and ting tangs on the gong- 
 gong announced that the procession was about to commence. A 
 salute from the artillery behind us having been fired, "Ahgo" 
 was called and silence reigned.
 
 2.-4 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 Fir.st came six Amazons, in long red togas, carrying black 
 pots ; two, Avhicli Burton calls Ajalela, being about four feet 
 high, and shaped like those in which the forty thieves hid them- 
 selves. They were followed by ten iron frames, representing 
 four arms terminating in brazen heads, which were the stands to 
 sustain the Ajalela. One of these pots was riddled with small 
 holes, and is the fetiche by which the army to attack Abeokeuta 
 is preserved. Its efficacy is so great that when water is poured 
 into it, it does not escape through any of the numerous orifices. 
 How was it that with this talisman the Dahomans were routed 
 in the last attack upon Abeokeuta ? The other pot was solid 
 and adorned with silver and brass stars, squares and half moons, 
 all powerful charms. A gang of twelve men then appeared 
 dragging a dray of native manufacture, upon which was the 
 wooden figure of a very heraldic lion, rampant, and carrpng a 
 sword in either hand. Lilce the preceding company, this gang 
 halted before the king, danced, bowed, and were dismissed with a 
 present of cowries and rum. They then proceeded through the 
 gateway and paraded down the Uhunglo market and round the 
 palace. This saluting was performed by each batch. 
 
 A wooden man with a ram's head, also in a fighting attitude, 
 and mounted on a wheeled platform, succeeded. Next a black 
 figure with a demon's head, four horns, glaring red eyes, grin- 
 ning teeth, and etceteras, on a truck followed by a gang of 
 soldiers, firing guns as they marched past. Twenty-four nyek- 
 pleh'hen-toh, or Eazor- women followed — strapping Amazons 
 dres.sed in dark blue pagnes with crimson cross-belts. They 
 carried their curious weapons over their shoulders. They are 
 evidently imitations of the razor of civilization, but the blade is 
 about thirty inches long, shutting into a black wooden handle 
 of the orthodox shape, and kept open when in use by a spring. 
 These novel arms were invented by King Gezu for the sole 
 purpose of cutting off the heads of the kings he captured. 
 
 A gang of women beai'ing calabashes of provisions followed 
 this company, and were succeeded by sixteen dancing priestesses.
 
 ciTAP.xi. TROCESSIOX OF THE KING'S WEALTH. 255 
 
 ])r(>cc(k'd by two girls blowing long silver horns, and followed by 
 a large band. Twelve priestesses carrying red jars of fetiche 
 water, folloAvcd by a white flag with a rude design representing 
 a blue man cutting off the head of a scarlet enemy. This was 
 mounted on a wheeled truck, and surrounding by a green railing. 
 
 Twenty-one fetiche priestesses, in grey togas with black sashes, 
 carrying black jars from which hung strings of bloody cowries 
 interchangeably with' strips of coloured cloth. Three regimental 
 standards — the fetiche emblems of three companies. One was 
 white, with zig-zag scarlet affairs on it like a handful of Jupiter's 
 lightning. Another was blue, with a white tree with a blazing 
 top ; while the third was white, with a scarlet shark upon it. 
 Nine highly-polished brass pots, carried by as many buxom 
 damsels in scarlet robes, wearing a profusion of coral and silver 
 bijoutery, and preceded by a band. Six blue-robed damsels — ■ 
 Amazonian beefeaters, with long red-handled brass spears, mon- 
 strous copper hoes, diggers, and other implements of native 
 husbandry, all highly polished and glittering in the sun. 
 
 Then came a silver candlestick of Brazilian workmanship, 
 perhaps a forfeiture from the Catholic mission at Whydah — 
 twelve fetiche images all painted black, with coral necklaces and 
 scarlet avo — twenty -two blue jars containing loose cowries, un- 
 pierced for stringing, as the usual currency is ; nine large cala- 
 bashes containing something very magical no doubt. Then, 
 borne on the heads of eighteen women, with bustles quite on a 
 civilized scale, were square boxes, wrapped in blue cloth. 
 
 Twenty-one soldieresses, habited in pale-blue tunics with yellow 
 cross-belts and sashes, came next, carrying long Danish guns 
 stained bright blue, and with their lock covers, shoulder straps 
 and other fittings of the same colour. Nineteen tall women in 
 long scarlet tunics, emblazoned with yellow lions on the breast, 
 back, and lappets, and wearing highly-polished brass helmets 
 with crimson plumes. Twenty ditto ditto, in yellow robes with 
 scarlet lions, with black sashes, the ends hanging in front, and 
 helmets with yellow plumes. Eighteen as before in white robes,
 
 256 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 semS of passant lions, with red-plumed helmets. Guarded by 
 twelve bayoneteers came the "Iron Umbrella," an ordinary 
 kwcho with iron rods for frames and a gun barrel for a handle, 
 followed by a long pole with a silver and a blue globe reflector 
 hanging from it, also under an escort of bayoneteers. 
 
 A tall silver candelabrum in the form of a tree, about five feet 
 high, with candles of silver ; a six-foot silver stork ; a crow ; an 
 immense silver skull, and a smaller silver "tree about four feet 
 high, all the workmanship of the royal silversmith, next followed. 
 These are the fetiche allegorical ornaments that will sui-mount 
 the grave of the present king. The candelabrum will show that 
 he was the light of his nation ; the stork that he was a wise man ; 
 the crow that he was valiant ; the skull that he conquered 
 many enemies and took their skulls ; and the tree that, like a 
 flourishing tree, his kingdom prospered under his reign. Then 
 followed a silver skull, mounted on a short stump, and a monkey 
 climbing up a tree of the same order as those on a willow-pattern 
 plate. These are the ornaments for the grave of Addokpon, the 
 Bush King. The skull shows that he too conquered many 
 enemies, and the monkey and tree that the bush, i.e., Dahomey, 
 was so much liked that foreigners came to settle there, that, like 
 the monkey, they might possess some of its riches. Other oina- 
 ments were exhibited during the Custom, and will be explained 
 in their proper place. 
 
 A band of singers in emerald-green skirts and scarlet sashes 
 then sang a Nago ballad, after which they danced to the accom- 
 paniment of their own band. After a largesse of cowries and 
 rum they were dismissed. 
 
 Forty- eight elephant huntresses, the Gbeto, then came before 
 the king. They were all tall well-proportioned women dressed 
 in dull-brown petticoats, and indigo-dyed tunics, with black 
 sashes, profusely ornamented with magic relics. Hound their 
 waists they wore a curious affair composed of strips of hide with 
 the hair on dangling from a belt, and a fillibeg of leather oi'na- 
 mented with cowries in front. Their guns were heavy, wide
 
 CHAP. xr. THE ELEPIIAXT HUXTERS. 257 
 
 bore muskets, and their ammunition was carried in black leather 
 pouches. All wore their hair cut close, save a circular patch on 
 the top of the poll, where it was combed out like a brush. They 
 are renowned for their prowess in the chase, and are sometimes 
 absent two years on one of their hunting expeditions. They 
 sang and danced before the king, and then saluted him by 
 raising their guns at arm's length. They were followed by the 
 female smokers, who puffed clouds of smoke from enormous 
 long-stemmed pipes of native manufacture. Their dresses were 
 fnnged with imitation tobacco leaves, and their appearance was 
 highly smoke-di'ied and wizened. 
 
 After them came a troop of eighteen girls, bearing long knives 
 with brazen blades, and nine others succeeded, carrying scarlet 
 guns with brass hoes fixed to the muzzles by bayonet joints. 
 Then came thirty- eight girls in various fancy tunics, who bore 
 large calabashes containing provisions on their heads, and a band 
 of twenty-three musketeers guarding two large boxes of silks fol- 
 lowed. Next came four girls who lustily blew long silver horns. 
 They ushered in nine Tansino in long blue gowns and black 
 steeple hats, who solemnly held up a blue cloth round a myste- 
 rious something which was supposed to be the king's " life 
 fetiche." This was protected from sun- stroke by a pink um- 
 brella. These holy women were followed by their chief, who 
 walked along by the aid of the tall copper rod we saw when she 
 fetched the holy water. Behind them, crawling at a funereal 
 pace, were the eight Bassajeh, who were the incarnate ghosts of 
 the deceased kings. They wore grey robes and white skull caps 
 with long trailing ends, over which were blue *' witches' hats." 
 A number of mysterious pots and vessels of several kinds suc- 
 ceeded, all wrapped in red and white checked clotlis. Then 
 came a girl dressed in white, who will receive the spii-it of the 
 present ruler when he goes to Deadland. After her sixty-four 
 priestesses followed, in white turbans and yellow robes, embla- 
 zoned with various fetiche hieroglyphics, and wearing necklaces 
 and other ornaments in profusion. All carried long walking- 
 
 s
 
 258 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 sticks, and chanted in a very funereal strain as they crawled 
 along. These were the priestesses who attend on Gezu's spirit 
 when it comes to this world. Then, dressed in cloths of every 
 hue, and of all ages, from twelve to forty, came nine hundred 
 and eighty-one amazons, carrying bottles of trade rum on their 
 heads, a bottle to each individual. They were brought up by a 
 band beating a terrific storm on their drums, and were followed 
 by a hundred and sixty-five women who carried bottles of 
 liqueurs, green, crimson, sky-blue, and other gaudy colours, 
 beautiful to the eye but poisonous to the stomach — at least a 
 European one. A fitting guard of sixty bayoneteers followed 
 this company, and a band, if possible more noisy than the first, 
 succeeded. This large quantity of spirituous liquor will be 
 paraded round the palace, and then given in charge to the 
 Benazon, who will receive it in a newly- erected shed in the 
 Uhunglo market. At the conclusion of the procession to-night 
 the indefatigable king will distribute this to the captains and 
 deserving privates of the army. 
 
 "While this almost interminable string of Hcbes were 
 passing, the Amazons and chiefs sang the praises of the monarch 
 alternately, the heralds on either side bellowing out the strong 
 names ; while every few moments the whole crowd burst into a 
 " Bloo Bloo," patting their lips with their fingers as they uttered 
 the sound. A company of indescribable beings dressed in white 
 Moslem robes, whom Burton calls " King Birds," who sat on the 
 left, varied the performance from time to time by a whistling 
 noise lilcc that heard in a bird fancier's menagerie. 
 
 Two girls then followed, twirling white flags emblazoned with 
 the Danh snake, nou-ed in a circle, and were succeeded by an 
 extensive band and a dancing corps of Jotosi. The leaders had 
 the usual Kpogi, \\ith strips of various- coloured cloth fastened to 
 the ends, and wore strings of red and blue beads. 
 
 Twenty-four women in green frocks, with white facings and 
 white turbans, bearing long white wands, succeeded by eighteen 
 in dark blue, with similar staves, then followed, after whom came
 
 CHAP. XI. THE JAW UMBRELLA. 259 
 
 eighteen professional dancers, who waved white fly-flappers like 
 horse-tails. They were dressed in yellow waistcoats and black 
 skirts, and danced before the king, and were afterwards " paid 
 ofi"" with a dash of rum. 
 
 The rcyal wives of the officers then brought in a light repast 
 of oranges, bananas, casheu nuts, and similar dainties to their 
 lords, and Gelele sent by our Dahkro a like dessert for our 
 acceptance. 
 
 Then a noisy band of braying horns and thumping drums of 
 aU sizes came along, preceding a company of seven girls, who 
 carried as many white flags, each with some allegorical design 
 upon it. 
 
 Next, a company of dancers came before us, naked to the 
 waist, which was clothed in a heavy fringe of plaited grass, 
 dyed bright red with cam-wood ; a similar ornament was also 
 bound round their ankles. They performed a dance of the 
 Can-can description, and retired amidst a volley of applause. 
 
 At this point the princes sent their pipes to the king through 
 the medium of a Dahkro, and asked their father, i.e., the king, 
 to supply them with tobacco. In a few minutes the Dahkro 
 returned and brought a roll of pig-tail, which she presented ta 
 the princes in the king's name. 
 
 Then came a gang of the Amazonian minstrels, holding small 
 scarlet flags in their right hands, while the left twirled a singer's 
 horse-tail. Their heads were wrapped up in scarlet handker- 
 chiefs, and they wore yellow hoods over scarlet tunics, which 
 were blazoned with rampant lions of sky-blue. They were joined 
 by about four dozen women, and danced for about a quarter of 
 an hour, while their band deafened us with its discordant music. 
 
 Then the monstrous Gold Coast stool of King Gezu, swathed 
 in crimson cloth, followed by twelve girls carrying brass and 
 copper basins filled with cowries, preceded the Agranhowe, an 
 enormous white umbrella, covered on the lappets and top with 
 eighty-four human jawbones, disposed chevron- wise. 
 
 A large drum, as big as a brewer's vat, with twenty-two humau 
 
 s 2
 
 2G0 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. XI. 
 
 crania, succeeded, and was followed by a woman carrying an 
 enormous executioner's knife, with a blade seven feet long and 
 two broad at the end, with a number of perforations in it, after 
 the fashion of a fish slice. 
 
 Then came the All-powerful drum seme of skulls, which has 
 been before described, followed by a large silver stork on the top 
 of a silver tree, the whole mounted on a four-wheeled truck. 
 Two silver ships of the Galleon pattern ; a couple of silver soldiers, 
 in the dress of Spanish buccaneers, fighting a duel — a present 
 to Gezu from the King of Portugal ; eighty-four girls dressed 
 in blue, "ftith white turbans, carrying brass Neptunes, each con- 
 taining six to ten skulls, the war trophies of King Gezu. 
 Gezu's mule, with a bell round her neck, led by a gaunt 
 warrioress. A dark green coach, e^'idently of native manufac- 
 ture, with two yellow flags attached to short staffs in front. It 
 had a long pole, and was drawn by forty-two men harnessed to 
 it by rope traces. A dark blue coach, with lions on the panels, 
 a present from the Chacha in the slave-trading times. A yellow 
 ditto on springs, of the stage-coach species, with a flagstaff let 
 through the roof ; a red carriage, like a brougham, with silver 
 lamps and axles, and a yellow lion on the panels. 
 
 King Gezu's hammock, a palkee looking affair of red and 
 white silk ; a wooden rocking-horse, with full trappings and 
 saddle, mounted on a wheeled truck ; a band of gourd rattles ; 
 a large chariot of bronze-green, very crazy and moth-eaten ; a 
 ditto, ditto ; King Agongolu's chariot ; a broAvn coach, picked 
 out with scarlet, with the original hind wheels replaced by a pair 
 of native workmanship ; a light green American waggon, with a 
 cow-hide hood ; and a green chariot, belonging to King Gezu. 
 
 A sedan chair, with crimson furniture trimmed with gold, carried 
 by eight men, who held the pole at arm's length above their 
 heads, while another batch of foui' kept the sun off by scarlet 
 parasols — thus denoting that the king makes useof the conveyance ; 
 a claret-coloiu'cd vehicle ; a black j)ony harnessed to a basket- 
 chaise, the property of Gclele ; a huge scarlet and green checked
 
 .HAP. XI. THE TWO WAR STOOLS. 2G1 
 
 board, for His Majesty to play a game upon ; a cumbrous ham- 
 mock of red silk, with yellow cui'tains, and various emblems on 
 'lie pole; Gezu's yellow coach, creaking, and with the varnish 
 I tlly cracked; a wooden mule, carrjdng a Gold Coast stool on 
 his back, mounted on wheels. The Menta-zinkpo, or stool of 
 war — a large chair and footstool of cumbrous native manufacture, 
 cut out of the solid, and ornamented with seven skulls ; two 
 Amazons, in green tunics, carrying small brass swivel cannon ; a 
 large war-stool, with twenty-seven crania upon it, the Menta- 
 pwe ; a Bath chair, with a red silk canopy over it ; two large 
 war-stools for the Bush King ; a green hammock, with a black 
 velvet awning, followed by two Katake war-chairs. 
 
 A band then performed a national air, and the procession 
 continued. First came a blue velvet hammock, with a yellow 
 lion on the top of the pole and on the curtains. This also is 
 used by the present monarch. A wooden fighting man, with a 
 di'awn sword ; a group of nine hunchbacked women ; a white 
 satin hammock with scarlet lions, profusely decorated with beads 
 and a brass-mounted pole, followed by a noisy band ; a French 
 drum and a tambourine ; thii'ty-three Amazons carrying nine 
 brazen and eleven iron swivel guns, bearing lighted port-fires in 
 their hands ; a large silver bowl ; a second American waggon, 
 followed by a band of " ivimeh," or players on the flute, whose 
 leader was a tall woman in a scarlet cloak. Ten drums of 
 various sizes followed, ushering in the Man-no, or Moon Mother, 
 the priestess of the Dahoman Astarte. She was dressed in grey 
 cloth, with a long necklace of black and white beads, and her 
 umbrella, of the tawdry white calico species, was carried by a 
 female hunchback. The Lisa-no, or Sun Mother, followed her 
 in a dark blue robe, her assistants bringing up the rear with a 
 collection of red and white striped pots, and a red flag charged 
 with a blue chamelion, the emblem of Lisa. 
 
 Sixty-eight Amazons, dressed in various-coloured skirts, and 
 bearing long red poles, from the extremity of each of which a 
 long string of cowries depended. Forty-eight girls carrying
 
 202 THE SO-SIX CUSTO:\r. ■ CHAP. XI. 
 
 heads of cowries, stained red and white, followed by a band 
 of singers, who wore silver plates tied to the right side of 
 their heads by scarlet cords. These were gorgeously dressed in 
 scarlet, and bore long whips of raw hide, Hke cat-o'-nine-tails. 
 
 A large party, carrying Kago, with an abundance of cooked 
 provisions, followed by a band, preceded eight Leopard wives, 
 each under her own state umbrella of gorgeous hue. They were 
 dressed in green and blue silk, richly embroidered with gold lace, 
 and glittered in the sun in the profusion of their jewellery of 
 silver and coral. All wore a string of silver ornaments round 
 their heads, which contrasted well with their dark skins, and the 
 royal coiffure of a turban-like tuft on the top of the head was 
 combed and pomatumed to perfection. Each carried a fish-sHce 
 sword ; and on arriving before the king they were presented with 
 a tumbler of spirits on a silver salver. Tasting a little, she 
 turned to her maid, who, on bended knee, swallowed the nobbier 
 at a draught, and then took up the present of five heads of 
 cowries and proceeded. A baud of panigan-hunto followed. 
 
 Then came another procession with red staves, with black 
 cowries hanging therefrom, followed by a second batch of red jars, 
 and two things, like frying-pans, one of brass and the other of 
 copper, which nobody seemed to know the name or nature of. 
 After them a group of singers made melody for ten minutes. 
 
 Preceded by their umbrellas, eight other ro}'al spouses now 
 came before us. These were dressed in grey figured silk, and 
 bright scarlet under-skii"ts. After drinking the king's health, they 
 passed on with the rest. 
 
 Three immense brass pots, shaped like water-coolers, four 
 copper ditto, and six iron kettles then defiled before us, followed 
 by four girls, playing on long horns encased in caHco. More red 
 poles, jars, pots, and other fetiche cookery, preceded twenty- four 
 Bagwe or Nesu water-pots. A large box of black wood — nine 
 trade desks, brass mounted, and four large pots, enveloped in 
 calico cloths. Then came on a miscellaneous troop of girls, 
 carrying various fetiche "notions" — jars, with white braid pennons
 
 CHAP. XI. THE TAIL DANCERS. 2G3 
 
 attached — little stools, some covered with blood and cowiies — 
 umbrellas of every possible material, all fetiche — urns — pipe- 
 cases, two yards long — basons — glass dishes — little model fetiche 
 houses, etc., etc., etc. Then came the Menta-dokamen, with 
 their skull contents, followed by Messrs. Bakoko, Akian, Fladoh 
 and Company. 
 
 A large stool, with twelve crania attached, which was carried 
 on a hand-barrow, after which a troop of the Ananun-hwesu- 
 huntoh, or Blue Knife Company, defiled before us. They were 
 dressed in Prussian blue gowns, with white cross-belts, and 
 carried chopper-like weapons, fixed to wooden handles, stained 
 blue. These peculiar knives are presented by royalty to the 
 bearers, and the blacksmiths are forbidden to manufacture them. 
 Then came a company of Archeresses, in many- coloured skirts, 
 followed by a band. 
 
 A deafening uproar of horns, rattles, and drums — announced 
 the Eahwch, or EngKsh landlady. She appeared dressed in a 
 profusion of cloths, as though her whole wardrobe was on her 
 back. Her head was covered with a brass helmet, and her blue 
 tunic, and orange skirt turned up with scarlet, gave her a smart 
 appearance. Her umbrella was blue, with scarlet stripes upon it, 
 and her escort wore tail beaver hats, and blue robes. A band 
 followed this important personage, who was honoured with a glass 
 of grog instead of the bottle, as dashed to the vulgar herd. 
 
 A large and powerful band ushered ui the Tail-dancers, or Logun- 
 sinsi. These celebrated performers were the especial invention of 
 Gelele. They were about twenty in number, and wore pink 
 skirts reaching down to the knee, and open-throated tunics of white 
 calico embroidered with scarlet. Round their waists they wore 
 broad scarlet sashes, to the back of which enormous bustles were 
 attached. From the back of these proceeded" a short stick, fromT 
 which depended a long tail of alternate black and white horse- 
 hair, as thick as a man's arm, and just clearing the ground. 
 They came in, and saluting the king, commenced their peculiar 
 dance. Standing in a row, with their backs to the king, and
 
 2C4 
 
 THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. 
 
 their arms in the orthodox swimming position, they began a see- 
 saw movement of the gluteus until, their tails acquired sufficient 
 momentum to swing completely round like a sling. They then 
 commenced to waltz in a circle, still keeping up the rotary 
 movement of their tails, thereby eliciting thunders of applause 
 from Amazons and warriors. A heavy bagsheesh followed their 
 performance, and, wagging their curious appendages, they filed 
 out of the presence. 
 
 Two French tricolors, surmounted by gilded eagles, were then 
 
 THE TAIL-DANXERS. 
 
 brought out, the flags being half rolled round their poles. 
 Twenty-two glass jugs, basins, and other utensils, in gilt or 
 brazen basins followed, and introduced a procession of eighteen 
 stools of various sizes, shapes, and importance ; the last two 
 being huge affairs of black and white wood. A man ! walking 
 in the midst of this procession, carrying a long blue staff with a
 
 CHAP. XI. THE "MOTHERS" OF THE KINGS. 203 
 
 wooden knife, painted vermilion, at the end of it, then appeared, 
 much to our surprise. 
 
 An English sheep with a body-cloth and a string of cowries 
 and fetiche by way of ornament round its neck then appeared. 
 
 The first portion of this interminable procession had by this 
 time perambulated the palace, and appeared at the gate, and 
 passed behind the mat screen to the king's proper right. 
 
 Then came a gang of blunderbuss-women in scarlet liberty 
 caps, with white fishes on the left side. These preceded eight 
 Leopard wives for the late Gezu ; aged crones, richly dressed in 
 violet and yellow silk, and in no way behind their juniors in the 
 profusion of their jewellery, although their age necessitated the sup- 
 port of a stick. A number of curious images of various kinds, some 
 black, some white, and others parti-coloured. Then came a 
 party of twenty-eight fetiche-irons, asen and sticks, all swathed 
 in calico ; a crimsoD cushion, supporting a silver Hon, most 
 probably of Eui'opean manufacture, followed by a smaller one, 
 very heraldic ; a large Chinese jar — an immense calabash, with 
 skulls for feet ; sixty - eight girls bearing conical heaps of 
 cowries in wooden platters; several porcelain jars ; and large glass 
 dishes, of the custard pattern ; a large drum, decorated with a 
 considerable number of human teeth, carried by two side poles — 
 ten crimson shields, said to belong to the Leopard wives, and a 
 deafening band. 
 
 Preceded by a woman wearing a grey tunic and a silver half 
 head, who brayed on a long trumpet, came the Yavedo, or chief 
 eunuchess for the " inside." She wore a brazen helmet, with a 
 black plume, and a row of scarlet feathers along the crest. 
 
 Two scarlet flags ; eight small drums, carried by girls in red tunics 
 and skull-caps and blue petticoats, with red fetiche emblems 
 sewn on ; a peculiar lantern or chandelier, so broken as to be 
 entirely concealed by its calico envelope, and slung to a hammock- 
 pole. Fourteen crimson umbrellas preceded the "place" of 
 Zoindi, the mother of the present king, who was closely followed by 
 Danhlike, the mother of the " Bush-king." They were shaded by
 
 2CG THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 white umbrellas, and dressed in sober grey and blue robes. A 
 batch of provisions, stools, swords, and utlier paraphernalia, formed 
 a train of a hundred and thirty-four people. Then came a 
 dilapidated flag, eighteen brass pans full of old crania, several stools, 
 pots, sticks, and umbrellas, announcing Agotime, Gezu's mother, 
 followed up by Nutobe, the corresponding bush-king's mother. 
 
 Two dirty umbrellas, much the worse for wear, protected the 
 shaven pate of a squat little dame, whose brow was encircled 
 with a silver tiara. Senune, Agongolu's mother, was the name 
 of this interesting being. 
 
 Then two umbrellas, in the same condition as the last, ushered 
 in Hunajileh, the mother of Mpengula — the usual bevy of 
 calabashes, bands, and stools, following in the rear. 
 
 i\fter her came the newly-appointed mother of Tegbwesun — 
 Chai by name, whose broad back was enveloped in a scarlet cloak. 
 The skull -decorated umbrella of Agajah the Scourge, whose mother, 
 Adono, wore a chaplet of human teeth, followed. Her band was 
 composed of gong-gongs, and gourd rattles alone. 
 
 A second company of Tail-dancers then came up, whose 
 performance was somewhat curtailed, as by this time the sun was 
 near the horizon. Succeeded a troop of seventy-four girls, loaded 
 with calabashes of provisions, followed by a number of "Ashanti" 
 drums. A troop of liberty-capped dames followed, and were 
 succeeded by a curious affair like a waggon, drawn by twelve girls. 
 
 Then came a large wooden vultm'e and a number of girls 
 carrying long pink poles, with white pennons. Twelve old crones 
 in fools' caps, w'earing striped dresses of blue and white calico; 
 a company of singers, whose leader was absorbed in a large 
 beaver hat ; two pseudo union jacks, a band of razor- women, 
 and ts\-enty-four Nago girls, who danced and sang in their native 
 language. They were dressed in pink skirts and blue waistcoats. 
 Ten of the king's " white men," Dahomans dressed in calico 
 trousers and black frock coats, hatless, shoeless, and shirtless ; a 
 long chair mounted with skulls ; a large curved knife, and a box 
 of twelve skulls.
 
 CHAP. XI. MORE SIGHT-SEEING YET. 2(J7 
 
 Then a batch of twelve girls sang a brief song, and were 
 succeeded by the skull standards carried by women in dark blue 
 dresses. Twelve umbrellas, covering as many Bo-fetiche priest- 
 esses, followed by two brass shields, a large drum, two large 
 scimitar-shaped blades, fretted as usual, and having skulls on 
 the hilts, eighteen Bo 'Kpo in red avo, six executioneresses in 
 leopard cloths of yellow with black spots, silver horns and 
 bracelets ; a number of black affairs like Highlanders' targets, 
 and five flags. 
 
 Last came the Gundeme in grey robes, followed by her retinue, 
 dressed in white blouses, said to be the garments worn by the 
 criminals in the victim sheds — perquisites of Calcraft. 
 
 By the time the last of her gang had passed out it was seven 
 o'clock, and quite dark, as a matter of course. A number of 
 captainesses were to have paraded, but Royalty as well as our- 
 selves was satiated. 
 
 A deafening fire of the artillery behind us flashed out in the 
 darkness, and announced that the procession of the king's wealth 
 was over. Right glad were we to hear it. A number of lanterns 
 were then brought out, and two were handed over to us. Aided 
 by these, we groped our way to the bamboo line where the king 
 met us, and, after inquiring whether we had enjoyed the spectacle, 
 requested me to come to the market to see the rum deHvered. 
 I begged to be excused, and said that I was too fatigued to sit 
 any longer. Upon this he said that, although the custom was 
 without precedent, he would make a special act empowering me 
 to recline in my hammock if I would honour the court with my 
 presence. Who could refuse such right royal condescension ? I 
 said I would come in two hours' time, but that I must have a 
 short respite. Much pleased at my reply, he bade me go and 
 refresh myself, and said that he would not begin the ceremony 
 without sending me notice. 
 
 The Ningan, the Meu, and other ofiicials then conducted me 
 through the gate, where they halted, and a troop of soldiers 
 fired a salute in my honour. I then went to my quarters to
 
 268 THE SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xi. 
 
 gather strengtli and patience for tlie night's additional cere- 
 monies. 
 
 In about an hour we heard the indefatigable king set out from 
 the market ; a squadron of Amazons with lanterns lighting the 
 monarch on his passage to the small shed where the rum had 
 been stored. 
 
 Our messenger having arrived to state that the king was 
 ready, we again started, and on arrival at the market found our 
 umbrella set up under one of the trees, and two trestles placed 
 ready to support the hammock pole. The governor had been 
 ordered to attend, and was expected to sit in a chair, but I 
 told the king that it was against all ideas of etiquette for one 
 white man to sit and the other to recline in the presence. His 
 Majesty sent a message to say that " he was king, and that he 
 allowed me, his friend, to lie in my hammock, but that the 
 Governor was too * hot ' a man, and therefore must sit. Never- 
 theless, as I had asked a favour he must grant it, and the 
 Governor might also lie in his hammock." 
 
 The Royal seat was surrounded by lanterns which just 
 rendered darkness visible, and the ghastly spectres of the victims 
 were faintly seen through the gloom. One could hardly pre- 
 vent a cold shudder as he turned from the fearful sight. The 
 ceremony was of short duration. The Ningan, Meu, Ajakyaho, 
 and the Adonejan were summoned to the front and received 
 about thirty bottles of rum each. I was then called, and had a 
 dash of a like number. The Governor received a present of 
 twenty black demijohns of rum as his share. 
 
 The officers then proceeded to distribute the royal largesse to 
 the various caboceers and braves, after which the female repre- 
 sentatives received their share. 
 
 The liqueurs were then doled out in like manner, twelve bottles 
 falling to my lot. A number of speeches praising the king's 
 generosity were then delivered by Meu and Amazons, and a 
 firing party rushed madly about calling out the strong names. 
 A duet was then sung by alternate ^Vmazonian and " outside "
 
 CHAP. XI. END OF TEE KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. 260 
 
 troubadours, and, last of all, a dance by tbe ministers of both 
 sexes brought the long day's performance to a conclusion. 
 
 To our unspeakable relief we saw the Dahkro bearing our 
 " pass rum," and, completely tired out, we left the presence after 
 a reception of sixteen and a half hours' duration. Truly a 
 Dahoman state reception is Ouvrage de longue haleine.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. 
 
 Ori"-in of the Bush King — His palace — His officers — The King of Dahomey not 
 a trader— Cleaning of the name. 
 
 The First Section of the Bush Kincfs So-Sin Ctcstom.—Geleli's speech — Ningan's 
 reply — Distribution and fight for cowries — Ballet of the Amazons — Royal 
 drummers — Dance with the King — Small procession of fetichists. 
 
 Tfte Second Section of the Bush King's So-Sin Custom.— Dahoma^D. jesters— Pro- 
 cession of Amazonian ministers — Native horsemanship. 
 
 Tlie Third Section of the Bush King's So-Sin Custom. — Ask permission to leave 
 Abomey — The King's answer— Jack in the green — Parade of Amazonian 
 ministers— Procession of the King's wealth for Addokpon. 
 
 The Fourth Section of the Bush King's So-Sin Cusfovi. — Prophetic vultures — 
 " Jail-birds " — The Akhosu Gelele's speech and song — Present of cooked 
 provisions. 
 
 TIic Fifth Section of the Bush King's So-Sin Custom. — Dies irae — Whitewashing 
 the gods — A small dose of medicine. 
 
 Tlie Sixth and last Section of the Bush King^s So-Sin Custom. — Victims in the 
 market for Addokpon — The Doho — Song of the guards — New umbrella — 
 Criminal cases — Smoke with a vengeance — We are passed — A double 
 conscience — The forlorn hope — Procession of ministers — The Zankuku — 
 Addokpon's escort— The war captains' parade — Review— Grand display of 
 the Dahoman army— Gelele's dress— Paracfe of Amazons— My dance — 
 " War food "—Parade of male soldiers — Distribution of rum and cowries 
 by night, and conclusion of the So-Sin Custom. 
 
 The duality of the Dahoman monarchs has been already men- 
 tioned. This singular freak was the invention of the fertile brain 
 of Gezu, Gelele's father, and, as will be seen, the Customs are 
 prolonged to nearly double their former length, to do honour to 
 the country king as wcU as the town monarch. 
 
 The Bush sovereign, although a mythical person, nevertheless 
 has all the appurtenances of the town king. His palace is at 
 Akpucho. a few miles from Abomey, on the TojSb road, to the
 
 CHAP. XII. THE "BUSH" KIXG. 271 
 
 north west. It is half swish and half mat, and has nothing re- 
 markable about it. Like all other palaces it has several gates, 
 with the usual Pwe-sheds, and their accompanying fetiche exhi- 
 bition. The courtyards are surrounded with long sheds, used to 
 store the maize and other cerealia for use in the i-oyal house- 
 hold, and here, too, the manufacture of most of the royal cloth is 
 carried on. I saw nine looms at work upon a new cloth for the 
 king, besides a number of others engaged in the weaving of cloth 
 for members of the royal household. 
 
 Besides this manufacture a great many of the pipes sold in the 
 Uhunglo and other markets are made here, the king granting a 
 monopoly of them to the landlord of the palace. 
 
 Addokpon has his Ningan, his Meu, and other officers Hke 
 Akhosu, the town king, besides a large estabHshment of Amazonian 
 guards and ministers. In short, he may be called the " double " 
 of the Akhosu, and whatever is done for the king in public is 
 thrice repeated ; first for the Amazons, then for Addokpon, and 
 thirdly, for Addokpon's Amazons. Visitors to the court are re- 
 ceived by Akhosu, but it will be seen in a future chapter that 
 before I was permitted to visit the interior I had to be received 
 by Addokpon. 
 
 These two monarchs are not connected Hke the Japanese rulers, 
 where one, the Tycoon, is the temporal sovereign, and the other, 
 the Mikado, the spiritual king. No such distinction in their 
 functions exists, Gelele being king of Abomey, and Addokpon of 
 the "bush," or country, as opposed to the town. 
 
 So great a monarch as thekiugof Dahomey could never soil his 
 hands by commercial dealings ; but since the wealth of the king 
 and country depended upon the sale of slaves and palm oil — the 
 former being an exclusive royal monopoly, and the greater part of 
 the oil exported from the country coming also from the king — 
 how could these be sold without demeaning the monarch to the 
 position of a petty trader ? There was the rub. Gezu sur- 
 mounted this difficulty by the invention of the Bush king, who 
 could take all the onus of ignoble trade, leaving the true monarch
 
 272 THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 to rule over his subjects and spend his revenues. Gezu's " double " 
 was called Gah-qpweh, the first two words of a short proverb, as 
 most of the Dahoman names, or rather titles, arc, viz., (t«A, market- 
 day, qpn-eh, coming ; "plenty of things will be there," being un- 
 derstood as completing the sentence. Addokpon, the alter ego of 
 Gelele, is an egotistical strong name. Addo, a yellow popo bead, 
 imperishable by fire, l<pon, look at it, i.e., Behold the eternal. 
 
 jVU the oil and palm kernels sold at Whydah are the produce 
 of Addokpon' s plantations, but Gelele buys the rum, powder, and 
 cloth ; a very convenient arrangement for getting a good name 
 for spending money, since Addokpon sells only, whereas the gene- 
 rous Gelele does nothing but buy. Nevertheless at the Customs 
 Gelele has by far the largest share of tribute, Addokpon being 
 put off with a very meagre allowance. 
 
 THE NUN KPON GBE ADDOKPONTON.— WE SHALL LOOK AT THE 
 CUSTOM FOR ADDOKPON TO-DAY. 
 
 After so tedious a day as the tenth, it could not reasonably be 
 expected that anyone would be very early in court the next 
 morning, however enthusiastic they might be to call hard work 
 pleasure. 
 
 It was late in the afternoon before we took up our stand 
 outside the southern gate of the Coomassie palace, where 
 Gelele was going to commence his Addokpon custom, contrary 
 to the usual proceeding of holding the Bush kings' levees in 
 the Uhunglo market. 
 
 We were not kept waiting long before the king appeared, 
 looking somewhat jaded, but pleased to see us there ready to 
 welcome him. He shook hands with us at the Amazonian 
 barrier, and then retired to the cool shade of the Pwe-shed. 
 
 AVe found the usual assembly of nobiUty, clergy, and gentry, 
 besides a fair sample of the canaille. The bamboos were stretched 
 from the telegraph pole fetiche to the fig trees opposite the 
 palace gate, and twenty-two baskets of cowries were an'anged in 
 line along the barrier. The proceedings commenced by Gelele
 
 CHAP. XII. GELELfi'S SPEECK. 273 
 
 delivering a speech about the bravery of his ancestors, how, one 
 and all, they had conquered every tribe that opposed them, how 
 none of them ever submitted to any insult from any neighbour 
 but it was "wiped out in blood. Such being the case, what had 
 he done that he was not revenged on his enemies. Had he not 
 made a good Custom for his father? Had he not given the 
 people good laws ? Did he not work as hard as any slave in the 
 land ? Why then did not his soldiers go and break Abeokeuta ? 
 They were too fond of talking and bragging about their great 
 valour, but when it came to the push they were cowards. He felt 
 vexed that his people should not have the same blood as those of 
 his father Gezu, but that they were Hke sheep and not lions. 
 
 Loud cheers, "bloo bloo," and strong names greeted the royal 
 speaker when he had concluded his harangue. The Ningan then 
 came to the front, followed by the Meu, Adonejan, Kposu, and 
 others. After the kodide the Ningan, kneeHng with his hands 
 before him in an attitude strongly reminding me of the plaster of 
 Paris " Little Samuels," commenced a reply by calling out " Aiah." 
 "Why does the king talk in the disparaging manner that he 
 does ? What king is so great as Gelele ? Does not the very 
 earth tremble when he sounds his war drum ? Shall not he lead 
 his armies where he chooses ? We will go and break Abeokeuta. 
 AVhen you take an egg and dash it on the ground, can you gather 
 it up into the shell again ? Just so will we do to Abeokeuta." 
 A burst of applause followed this speech, which was succeeded by 
 similar blarneying and braggadocio declamations on the part of 
 several ofiicers, both male and female. 
 
 One aged warrioress worked herself up into a towering passion, 
 stamping, calling the gods to witness that she would lay hold of 
 Abeokeuta and cut off its head, suiting the action to the word, 
 and seating herself down with a bump, as though she would shake 
 Abeokeuta to pieces by the concussion. The king then came out 
 and said that since they had promised to break Abeokeuta he 
 would not feel vexed. 
 
 The caboceers then formed themselves into a Hue, seniors lead- 
 
 T
 
 274 THE BUSn KING'S SO-SIX CrSTO]\r. chap. xii. 
 
 ing, and passed before the king from right to left, presenting their 
 left shoulders to the king, who placed a head or two of cowries on 
 the cranium of each as he stooped before him. After the 
 ministers were thus rewarded, the Idng called out the Governor 
 and myself, and caused us to fall in behind the Adonejan. He 
 gave me three heads, and the Governor a couple, which we bore 
 away to our seats rejoicing. 
 
 "When all the officers were passed, the remainder of the cowries 
 were thrown to the soldiery, who scrambled for them with the 
 usual violence. 
 
 The bamboos were then moved to the rear, and a gang of 
 dancers came and exliibited their agility to the admiration of 
 everybody. They were succeeded by another corps de ballet, and 
 this Terpsichorean display continued for three hours. Durmg the 
 activity dances the king sent me a pipe ready filled and lighted, 
 saying that a pipe was good for any one who was looking at 
 people dancing, because it made him forget the progress of time — 
 not a very flattering compliment to the ballet dancers, in what- 
 ever way it is put. 
 
 The monotony was occasionally varied by songs on the part of 
 the Amazons, and by a few noisy speeches by sundry warriors 
 emulous of distinction, a copious dirt bath following every elocu- 
 tionary display. Once or twice the king came out, and taking 
 the crooked di'um-sticks from one of the players, beat a tune with 
 his own hands. A volley of cheers went the round of the square, 
 and we rose and bowed, a compliment the king acknowledged by 
 a wave of the drum-sticks. Geleld then danced a kind of double 
 shuffle, and sent for the Governor and me to dance with him. ]My 
 comrade flatly refused, to the horror of his interpreter, who 
 dreaded falling under the displeasure of the English landlord. 
 Although I begged to be excused, the king sent such flattering 
 requests that no one could hold out against them. Accordingly, 
 lighting a long native pipe in imitation of the king, I went out 
 into the arena, and placed myself opposite Gelele. The band then 
 struck up, and we began our performance. Gelele' leaped to the
 
 CHAP. XII. MY DANCE WITH THE KIXG. 275 
 
 right, and I followed suit, a wriggle by both, of us succeeding 
 — another hop, this time to the left, and I was not behind my in- 
 structor ; then a series of dislocating movements only to be per- 
 formed by a Dahoman, a lay-figure, or an eel. In this way, 
 nearly half an hour was spent amidst the cheers, shrieks, and yells 
 of the excited mob ; the enthusiasm at length getting to such a 
 pitch that the square was covered with isolated dancing couples. 
 
 The ballet over, Gelele presented me with four heads of cowries, 
 a compliment I returned by picking up six heads from a basket 
 near me and placing them on the king's shoulder, telHng him that 
 he had danced better than I, and that he must therefore have his 
 pay. Such a babel of strong names, gun firing, bloo-blooing and 
 yelling then arose that I thought every person in the presence 
 was trying to give himself a sore throat. 
 
 A series of palavers, the never-ending one of Abeokeuta being 
 the general topic, then ensued. How the Abeokeutans' ears must 
 bum, if there is any truth in the popular sajing. The sticks 
 being replaced, a procession of fetiche images and crania then 
 paraded the square to a concert by the Amazons, and a short ballet 
 brought the |)roceedings to a conclusion. Our pass rum was then 
 brought out, and we left the court just as the sun was setting. 
 
 On arriving'at our quarters we were agreeably surprised to see a 
 present of cooked meats, fruit, and Kqueurs ostentatiously dis- 
 played in the court-yard. This had been sent to me by the 
 English landlady. I found letters from home awaiting me, one of 
 which contained the carte-de-visite of my wife. I showed this to 
 Hahansu one day, and he wished particularly to know if she was 
 my " principal " wife. He could not understand monogamy at 
 all, and said that perhaps it might be good for white people, but 
 never would be tolerated amongst black men. 
 
 THE AKHOSUSI ZOHN GBE.— THE AMAZONS WILL MARCH ROUND 
 
 TO-DAY. 
 
 About two o'clock in the afternoon of September 12th we 
 repaired to the Uhon nukon, which was newly swept, and bundles 
 
 T 2
 
 276 THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 of bamboos placed at intervals round the square. Our umbrella 
 "was set up in the shade of the southern wall of the palace, to 
 the east of the gate. The jesters were busily employed in their 
 silly tom-foolcry, which was about on a par with the attempts 
 of a nine-year-old child to do the funny. One would offer a 
 lump of cankie to his comrade, and, on the latter attempting to 
 bite it, he would adroitly slip the end of a stick in his mouth. 
 Another would squat down and grin as though sitting as a model 
 for a church gargoyle. A third would be busy catching phantom 
 acari in his waist-cloth, while a fourth would be pretending to 
 cry his eyes dry because he could not swallow a calabash. 
 
 An hour of this buffoonery quite exhausted our patience, when 
 the braying of horns and firing of guns at the palace gate an- 
 nounced the arrival of Gelele. He soon appeared, and was 
 escorted by a number of the ladies of the harem to the south- 
 eastern side of the Bwekon-uhon, where a canopy of umbrellas 
 was quickly set up and a crimson-covered sofa brought out. A 
 table was set up before this, and covered with a cloth, upon 
 which a large broad-brimmed felt hat, heavily braided with gold 
 lace, was placed. At a given signal Gelele stood up, and wo 
 followed suit, bowing towards the king, who acknowledged the 
 salute by waving the bi'oad-brim. 
 
 A party of eighteen ** tail dancers " then appeared from behind 
 the fetiche tree, and entertained us with a whirligig ballet for 
 half an houi". They were dismissed with a largesse of rum and 
 cowries, and a concert of the Amazonian bands followed. 
 
 The Tononun and his myrmidons then severed the cords 
 binding the bundles of rods, and encircled the square with a lino 
 of these impassable leaf-stalks. 
 
 The Amazonian ministers then appeared, riding on horseback, 
 but not cutting very imposing figui-es. First came the female 
 Ajakyaho in a scarlet robe, sitting astride of a brown nag upon a 
 highly ornamental saddle-cloth, Kke a Californian aparejo, but 
 made of leather dyed bright red, blue, and yellow. The horse 
 was led by a halter of grass rope, and wore a small brass bell
 
 CHAr. XII. EQUESTRIAN PARADE OF AMiiZONS. 277 
 
 suspended round liis neck. The right arm of the Ajakyaho was 
 jjassed round the neck of a stalwart Amazon, and, in addition to 
 this, she was held on her seat by a groom on the left. , In her 
 left hand she grasped her sword, but her attention was evidently 
 completely engrossed in the problem of maintaining her equili- 
 brium. A less dignified equestrian I never saw, but she was 
 quite able to hold her own with any of her followers. 
 
 The she Ningan came next, and was succeeded by the Meuess, who 
 bestrode a mule, and did not appear in the least afraid of showing 
 the columnar proportions of her nether limbs. The other she- 
 ministers followed, to the number of fifty-one, all cutting very 
 sorry figures. The Dahomans are evidently not intended to 
 shine as equestrians. As each ofEceress passed our umbrella she 
 saluted, and the English mother and the Meu presented us with 
 a demijohn of rum apiece. All had their umbrellas borne furled 
 on the head of a female servant, and a band of about half a 
 dozen girls brought u]) the rear of the escort of the principal 
 ministers. Notwithstanding the ludicrous figure some of the 
 soldieresses cut, the display was well worth seeing, as it gave us 
 a better idea of the dresses worn by the Amazons than the hasty 
 glance that the procession in the King's So-sin Custom afforded. 
 Behind the captainesses came the three brass-mounted skulls and 
 a small collection of fetiche deities, some of which bore a strong 
 resemblance to the figure-heads of vessels. After thrice peram- 
 bulating the square they saluted the king, and marched down 
 the road towards the Uhunglo market, where they saluted the 
 victims, whose presence was by this time apparent, not only to 
 the eye, but the nose. They afterwards marched round the 
 Coomassie palace, a firing party of eighty-four Amazons bringing 
 up the rear. The jesters then came on again in full force, but 
 our patience was not again to be tried by them, for we saw our 
 Dahkro approaching with our case bottles of " dismissal spirits," 
 and without waiting for the appearance of the Amazons from 
 their circumambulation of the palace, we retired to our respective 
 homes.
 
 278 THE BUSn KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. CHAP. Xll. 
 
 ADDOKrON XUN KPON GBE DITEH.— THE PEOPLE WILL LOOK 
 AT A GRAND SIGHT FOR ADDOKPON TO-DAY. 
 
 The next day was a holiday, and I availed myself of the 
 opportunity of sending a message to the king, requesting him to 
 permit me to return to Whydah ; representing to him that his 
 detention of me was a serious loss, and that I had not come 
 prepared for so long a stay ; more especially as I had been given, 
 to understand that I should only be absent from Whydah eight 
 days. Had I come as a mere pleasure- seeker, it would have 
 been a different matter; but I had visited his country for a 
 special object, the accomplishment of which he was entirely 
 frustrating by his detention of me. 
 
 The answer I received deserves a literal translation, and will 
 give the reader a faint idea of the more than Job-like patience 
 demanded of those who once get into the power of African 
 potentates. 
 
 " The king's compliments to you (thrice repeated). Why are 
 you so vexed with your friend ? Keep your heart cool. The 
 king loves you ' too much.' Left three days [Anglice, in four 
 days) and the Custom wiU be finishcil^ and then you shall bo 
 passed. "Why are you so impatient to get away from your 
 friend ? When he no more sees your face he will be sad. Why 
 then wish to leave him ?" 
 
 "What could any one say to so flattering a message ? To attempt 
 to leave without the king's permission would be useless, for not a 
 single porter would dare to carry a package under such a con- 
 dition of things. 
 
 About eleven o'clock the next morning we went to the palace 
 gate, where a kind of Jack-in-the-green, in a long grass robe, 
 with a bullock's head covering his ovnx, was moving over the 
 square, halting occasionally before some of the assembled chiefs, 
 and bellowing out in imitation of a buU's challenge cry. The 
 whole affair was about on a par with the child's play in England, 
 where one pretends to frighten the others by crying out ''Booeh.^' 
 
 After enduring this for a quarter of an hour, we were sum-
 
 CHAP. XII. THE CHIEF BARD. 279 
 
 moned within the palace. I found the ministers and captains 
 seated under their umbrellas, and a vocal concert was going on 
 under the direction of the head bard, the Ken -tin. This 
 Dahoman Sir Michael Costa was somewhat smartly got up. He 
 wore a scarlet serge petticoat, "with a vest of dark blue blanketing. 
 Over this was a dirty velvet cloak that had once been crimson, 
 but was now any colour between sienna-brown and blood-red. 
 Since he was a great person he was decorated with a pair of 
 brass horns of the mushroom type, and a single brass gauntlet 
 round his left wrist. He carried the usual Kpo stick, a horse- 
 tail chauri, and a black-handled scimitar. 
 
 The little black image holding out its head in the palace- 
 yard was joined by two others painted pink, and repre- 
 senting players on the gong-gong. On the king's coming in 
 we advanced to meet him, and awaited his approach near the- 
 three images. He was dressed in a green and violet striped silk,, 
 with yellow figures upon it, a small scarlet turban with a band of 
 yellow braid, several necklaces, and a pair of European slippers^ 
 in beadwork. He shook hands with us in his accustomed afi'able 
 manner, and then, turning to me, desired me to have a little 
 patience, and then I should see what he would do for me. 
 Baskets of cankie, cooked fowls, goats, pigs, yams, and other 
 provisions were then brought in and displayed along the row of 
 bamboos. 
 
 The mat doors on the king's left then opened, and a troop of 
 she-ministers, headed by the Ningan, paraded in a circle. Their 
 appearance was very similar to that on the last day of the 
 King's So-sin Custom, except that the ministers in front wore 
 red velvet instead of silk — velvet being the peculiar fancy of 
 Addokpon. 
 
 The captainesses then paraded, the van being led by a virago, 
 whom I did not know, with a long pole walking-stick tipped with 
 a skull, and a fringe of black horse-hair beneath. This pro- 
 cession was brought to a conclusion by four jesters, who rushed 
 about the square calling out Addokpon's strong names.
 
 280 THE BUSH KIXG'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 When these two displays were over, a couple of artiller}^ 
 women came in carrying two small brass cannons mounted on 
 pieces of short plank, which they laid dovm. in the middle of the 
 square, and primed from their cartridge-boxes. Advancing to 
 the front they began a declamatory address to the king in the 
 name of AddokjDon ; the gist being that Addokpon was prepared 
 to show Akhosu that he too could make Custom. At the end of 
 the harangue the cannons were fired, going off with a fizz, and 
 the blunderbuss women in the rear followed suit, one blowing off 
 her little fin2;cr in the excitement. Of course a Dahkro came to 
 ask if I could cure it, and I said that if she "wrapped the stump 
 ■up in clean linen rag it would soon heal. Luckily they were for 
 once satisfied with my prescription, and during the afternoon I 
 saw the wounded gunner heaping dust on herself as vigorously 
 as any of the others. 
 
 Ningan's mother then stood up from amidst a troop of Amazons 
 on the king's right, under the shade cf the pavihon, and said that 
 last night seven men -were hung up in the Amazons' market 
 inside the palace, and that four -were sent to Gezu and Gahqpweh 
 ■to infonn him of the event. It thus appears that the victims 
 for Addokpon are slaughtered in the Amazons' market before 
 those for the Uhimglo market. 
 
 A loud series of Bloo-bloo followed this announcement, and 
 the Tononun proceeded to form a lane of bamboos from the 
 Idng's left to the palace-gate. 
 
 A procession similar to that of the King's "Wealth then 
 -commenced to parade before us, the details of which would 
 be tedious to the reader. We will therefore mention those 
 " valuables " which appeared on this occasion, which were not 
 exhibited at the King's procession on the last day of his So-sin 
 Custom. 
 
 The procession led off with a party of the king's smokeresses, 
 and after they had blown a cloud a troop of girls cariying long 
 fetiche affairs like iron palm-leaves preceded the black jars. The 
 rum was carried by nine hundred and fifty-one girls, who were
 
 b 
 
 CHAP. xn. ADDOKPON'S PROCESSIOK 281 
 
 followed by twelve others carrying green jars like flower-pots. 
 Several bands of dancers also appeared at intervals wearing 
 sasbes of black, indigo blue, or orange. A band of Amazons, 
 wearing scarlet robes, witb yellow rampant lions emblazoned 
 upon them, were very conspicuous, as also were a couple of 
 butter-disbes, of tbe commonest yellow earthenware, representing 
 a hen sitting on a nest. These were probably a dash from some 
 trader at ^ATiydah. 
 
 Addokpon's mother was gaily dressed in bright sky-blue silk 
 and a yellow sash, besides a scarlet and yellow coif, perched 
 jauntily on one side of her wool. A number of flags with 
 dragons, sharks, lions, snakes, and other heraldic animals, were 
 borne behind the old king's mother's ; and the brass shields of 
 two of the Amazonian corps, with skulls in the centre, were 
 exhibited for our admiration. Behind these came the skull- 
 standards, and next a troop of Abosi, or Gate-wives, dressed in 
 grey togas, with red crossbelts, and armed with axes, having a 
 skull below the head. These women are deputed to open the 
 gates of Abeokeuta, when the king leads them against that 
 town. Ajakyaho's mother brought up the rear, just as the sun 
 was setting. 
 
 Cowries and rum were given to the king's wives only during 
 this procession, the state of Addokpon's treasury not permitting 
 such extensive largesse as that of Akhosu. After the last of 
 the Ajakyaho's retinue had disappeared through the palace gate 
 a salute was fired, and the Dahkros commenced to distribute the 
 ■s-iands. As we had been seven hours in the presence, we sent 
 to ask permission to retire, and on the receipt of the usual bottle 
 of rum, gladly passed through the gloomy portal on our way 
 home. The Jack-in-the-green was still cutting capers about the 
 square, but despite his repeated solicitations, he did not obtain 
 any " bagsheesh" from us. At night the king would distribute the 
 rum in the market, and I dreaded a summons to attend, but 
 resolved to plead utter exhaustion, and not to be seduced by any 
 offers of hammock into going to see the ceremony. jMy fears
 
 282 THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIX CTSTOiT. chap. xii. 
 
 ■were, however, groundless, for Gelel^ was merciful for once, and 
 left us undisturbed. 
 
 "We heard the palaver begin about nine o'clock, and from the 
 account of old Blood-and-Cowi'ies, who never absented himself 
 from any levee, there was nothing that I should have cared to 
 see. I received a demijohn for my share of Addokpon's rum, 
 and was quite satisfied with the acquisition of that without 
 undergoing three hours' purgatory to obtain it. 
 
 ADDUGBA-NO-GBE.— THE ADDUGBA DRUM -WTLL BE PLAYED 
 
 TO-DAY. 
 
 The next day we were again seated in our chairs beneath the 
 sacred bombax in the TJhon-nukon by two o'clock p.m. On our 
 way to the palace we saw the toj)s of the gallows, •uith their ghastly 
 burdens, in the Amazons' market, above the palace wall. Burton 
 appears to have omitted all notice of the Amazonian sacrifices, 
 but it is very probable that their occuiTence was carefully con- 
 cealed from him. Indeed he was intentionally kept in ignorance 
 of many events that occui-red during his stay at Abomey, for 
 somehow he had by no means a good name with either king, 
 lords, or commons. 
 
 The Elephant tent and the trees behind it were covered with 
 vultures, as though they had a prophetic knowledge that the 
 victims who still remained would soon be their lawful prey. A 
 troop of prisoners from the Adonejan's jail filed past us into the 
 palace, and a more pitiable sight I rarely beheld. All were 
 brick-red with the dirt from the floor of their prison, and their 
 unkempt locks were long oblivious of the comb. Most of them 
 wore a square of coarse grass-cloth round their waists, while 
 others had a mere apology for a loin-cloth. All had their wrists 
 tied -with grass rope, and several of them were tied together 
 in long sti'ings by cords .round their necks. A filthier set I 
 never beheld, but it was only what could be expected from a 
 confinement within such jails as obtain in Dahomey, where 
 sanitary measures are xmknown, where might is right, and within 
 whose walls a person may be immured for life, if he neglects or
 
 CHAP. XII. THE STATE KO-SI. 28? 
 
 fails to attract tlie king's notice when brought into the presence as 
 upon this occasion. 
 
 "When summoned to the palace these rufous convicts were 
 busily engaged heightening their colour with a dirt-bath, and I 
 was relieved to find that they were separated from our chairs 
 by the whole breadth of the square. I had no desire to procure 
 specimens of their fauna for my collection. 
 
 A number of women, the Ko-si, or authorised prostitutes, were 
 dancing before the throne, their actions being under the surveil- 
 lance of a captainess. These women are a public institution in 
 Dahomey, and receive licence from the king to practise their 
 trade. They are under the orders of the Meu and his Amazonian 
 double, whose duty it is to keep up the supply of these somewhat 
 superfluous ladies in a land where polygamy is rife. 
 
 The initiation is performed by an old hag, who takes the 
 neophyte into her confidence, and when fully instructed leaves 
 her in a small hut, where she is forced to receive gratis the atten- 
 tions of all gentlemen who may please to visit her for seven days. 
 At the expiration of this period she is entitled to a fee of about 
 two strings of cowries, and is obliged to submit to the embraces 
 of any person who pays the honorarium. Similar ladies of pleasure 
 are to be met with on the Gold Coast. 
 
 There are likewise Ko-si for the inside — rather a curious 
 circumstance, since there is not a single man within the palatial 
 walls. The outside Ko-si, according to Burton, reside in the 
 Bwckon quarter, and near the Abomey gate. 
 
 These ladies have the exclusive privilege of playing a large 
 di'um called Addugba, and they exhibited themselves with all 
 the nonchalance of their trade. The Addugba drum is the 
 accompanying music to a peculiar dance, more like a quadrille 
 than anything else. A soldier stood opposite each Ko-si, and 
 when the music struck up the couples commenced a wUd cory- 
 bantic display, having no beauty whatever in its movements. 
 After a few moments the couples crossed over and changed sides, 
 and repeated the figure. All wore long white turbans, and
 
 •284 THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 ■carried round brass fans, like small frying-pans, much reminding 
 me of similar articles in use among the M'pangwes of Gaboon. 
 The captain wore a leather tunic, embroidered with cowries, and 
 an extra large turban. 
 
 At the conclusion of the dance, the inside Ko-si made a 
 •similar display, the place of the male dancers being taken by 
 girls dressed in men's costume. These inside meret rices wore 
 blue robes and scarlet turbans, while the officer was clothed in a 
 yeUow and crimson striped tunic. 
 
 After this display, so truly Dahoman in its duality, the stick 
 'boundary was enlarged by the Tononun, and the king, accom- 
 panied by about twelve concubines, strutted forth. He was 
 dressed in a green toga, with drawers of blue and yellow tartan, 
 and was shaded by a silk parasol striped alternately crimson and 
 yellow. He made a long speech, principally invoking the aid of 
 his soldiers to assist him to break Abeokeuta, and calling upon 
 the principal generals by name to excel each other in deeds of 
 daring. As each soldier was called upon he answered " Wae " — 
 " I am here," and proceeded to the front, where he copiously 
 dusted himself. This harangue lasted nearly an hour, when the 
 monotony was somewhat varied by Gelele singing a song, com- 
 posed for the occasion by himself — 
 
 " We are all brave people and will break Abeokeuta, 
 After that we will all sit down and take our rest." 
 
 The chorus was taken up by the Amazons, and the " king- 
 birds" chirruped their praises at each interlude. 
 
 Another speech followed, alluding to the desire of the king 
 that during this Custom every^body should eat their fill. During 
 its deUvery several calabashes of the usual provisions were 
 brought in, and when all were displayed before him, Gelele 
 finished his speech by saying that the petty kings whom he had 
 conquered must be glad to be put out of their misery, because 
 they had no sons to honom- their ghosts "with ofierings of food 
 and diink. Gezu was happy, for had not Geleld, his son, poured 
 •out subsistence with a lavish hand ?
 
 CHAP. XII. A FEESII BATCH OF VICTIMS. 285- 
 
 Several baskets of the usual pattern, with calabash covers, 
 branded with the royal hieroglyphics, were then brought in and 
 set on one side for Gezu ; the whole assembly praising the king's 
 bountiful hand. We were then called to the front, and a sucking- 
 pig, fried whole, nine fowls, two ducks, and an abundance of stews,. 
 hashes, and cankies given to us. The ministers then received their 
 share, after which came more singing, and the day's performance 
 concluded with a "tail-ballet," lasting till dusk. Just as the 
 sun was setting, Gelele arose and came to the front and danced a 
 short break-down in our honour, guns firing and people praising, 
 during its continuance. We followed suit by a fandango of five 
 minutes' duration, and finally we received our pass-rum from the 
 hands of Royalty itself, and, escorted by the Meu and Adonejan,. 
 left the palace. 
 
 ZAN MEN HUWU WONH ADDOKPON. — THE NIGHT FOR THE 
 OMINOUS HUMAN SACRIFICES FOR ADDOKPON. 
 
 The next day was another dies irce, for the remaining victims 
 would be hung up in the market for Addokpon at night. 
 
 In the morning the unpleasant job of removing the corpses of 
 the King's victims from the scafi'olds was performed, the bodies 
 being taken to the ditch on the south side of Abomey, while the 
 heads were preserved to increase the number of those in the 
 neptunes. At the same time the heads at the King's gate were 
 removed and a fresh heap of earth built up ; the blood-stained 
 earth of the old heap being carefully preserved to repair the 
 swish wall of Gdzu's spirit house, hereafter to be described. 
 
 The Elephant tent, the victim sheds, and all the other structures 
 in the Uhon nukon were also removed ; the presiding fetiche 
 alone remaining standing solitary and weather-stained near the 
 row of cannon. Every trace of the victim sheds was obHtcratcd, 
 the holes occupied by the upright posts being carefully filled up. 
 The restriction as to remaining indoors, lighting fires, and other 
 similar actions referred to the period between sunset and sun- 
 rise, instead of the whole day as in the Akhosu Custom ; and the
 
 286 THE BUSH KING'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 holiday was emplo}'cd by the householders in repairing their 
 doors, as on this night a spirit walks round the town, and if he 
 finds any door broken, enters the house, the owner of which will 
 have bad luck for the next twelvemonth, and run a considerable 
 risk of gracing the next evil night by his presence on one of the 
 gallows. My hamniockmen were busy whitewashing the fetiche 
 images in their "Jos house," and in repairing their finery in 
 readiness for the glad day to-morrow. 
 
 I was laid up by an attack of fever which caused considerable 
 anxiety to the Bukono, who did not so much care for my illness 
 as the fear that I would be unable to attend the Court the next 
 day. He brought me about a quart of some fetiche medicine, 
 the mere appearance of which was enough to turn one's stomach, 
 and insisted upon my taking the whole of it. I respectfully but 
 firmly declined, and when he grew too importunate he was 
 inveigled out of the courtyard, and the door closed behind him, 
 much to the surprise of my people, who would not have dared 
 to refuse him admission had I been in extremis. My boy Joe 
 was the only one who did not have a great respect for the 
 diviner ; and to him I entrusted the custody of the long wooden 
 pin which acted as a bolt to the door of my private apartments ; 
 and ever after the troublesome landlord was kept at a respectful 
 distance. 
 
 ADDOKPOX-DAN-GBE.— ADDOKPON WILL FIRE TO-DAY. 
 
 The old Bukono need not have been at the trouble of mixing 
 his magic philtre, for I was much better in the morning, and 
 went to the market to see the Bush King's ^'ictims. There were 
 four gaUows with a single body attached, and one with a brace of 
 corpses hanging side by side. At the southern end of the market 
 a long shed called a Do-ho, or bamboo house, was erected ; the 
 roof being covered with a blue and yellow tartan, and the walls 
 Avith white cahco. Here the fetiche rum that was carried round 
 the palace on the third day of Addokpon's Custom was stored 
 ready to be delivered to the people at night. On the north side
 
 CHAP. XII. A NEW STATE UMBRELLA. 287 
 
 of the market a similar but smaller pavilion was set up. This 
 was Addokpon's special hut. 
 
 About ten o'clock we entered the IsTotoh and took up our 
 seats under the famihar white umbrella, prepared to exercise 
 our patience by a long seance. AYe found a gorgeous verandah 
 of umbrellas sui-rounding the ladder leading to the royal seat, 
 and the red-cloaked jesters busily engaged in smoking yam and 
 cassada pipes with the utmost gra"\dty. 
 
 The women on our right were busily charging their guns and 
 carefully resting them on the forked sticks. 
 
 A troop of dirt-stained prisoners from the Men's jail then 
 hurried in, and kneeling down en masse, kicked uj) such a 
 shower of dust that I was thankful that I was a long way to 
 windward of them. Presently the guards, who had been peram- 
 bulating the palace since dawn, came in and squatted down in a 
 row before the bamboo line. They then commenced a mono- 
 tonous chant referring to the victories of the Dahoman monarchs, 
 the prowess of the warriors, and the utter insignificance of every 
 other nation upon earth. In the midst of this cantata Gelele 
 appeared, ushered in by a loud braying of scrivello horns and 
 rattles. He was accompanied by his five " Leopard wives," 
 and both he and they were splendidly dressed in brilliant silks, 
 and a profusion of jewellery shone out conspicuously against 
 their dark skins. The king walked under the shade of a new 
 umbrella of his own design, representing a very podgy parody 
 upon a white man shaking hands with a sable specimen of the 
 genus homo in blue pantaloons, pink hair, and legs and arms 
 much on the same scale as those of a tortoise. This device was 
 emblazoned upon every lappet, the groundwork being dark green 
 velvet bordered with yellow and scarlet. The pole was sur- 
 mounted by a curious specimen of carving, supposed to represent 
 a fish with a white man protruding from his mouth — a very 
 sorry Jonah. The king came up to me, and after the usual 
 greeting told me that this umbrella had been made to comme- 
 morate my visit to him. Whenever any visitor saw this umbrella
 
 288 THE BUSn KING'S SO-SIN CrSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 he would ask what the design meant, and then would be told 
 that the king's friend Kerselay had stayed so long with Geleld 
 that he had made this umbrella to remind everybody that he, 
 Geleld, had a great friend among the English people. 
 
 The song of the guard being finished, the prisoners came 
 forward and renewed their dirt shampoo ; after which the King 
 called upon the Meu and inquired into several of the cases. As 
 each person was called on he was brought to the front by a 
 couple of the Men's soldiers, who held the end of a grass rope 
 which was fastened round the neck or waist of the prisoner. 
 Some were pardoned and others hurried off to jail again ; both 
 guilty and not guilty being duly honoured with several smart 
 slaps on the head and back by their janitors. Why ? 
 
 A long palaver between the King and Amazons on the one 
 side, and the Ningan, the Gaou, the Kposu, and the Anlinwanun 
 on the other, the subject being the never-failing one of Abeokeuta. 
 
 Several songs, dances, and speeches followed, each relating to 
 the wonderful deeds to be performed by the various companies 
 if Gelele would only give them one more chance. The royal 
 smoker in his sienna robes then came to the front, and waving 
 his immense pipe declared that what the King had just heard 
 was all nonsense, for if Geleld would only furnish him with 
 sufficient tobacco he would go and smoke out the Abeokeutans 
 just as bees were smoked out of a tree, and then Gelele could go 
 in and take the honey. 
 
 After this httle piece of braggadocio we were dismissed to our 
 quarters for an hour to partake of a hurried breakfast, and at 
 one p.m. were again in the presence. The king had been 
 engaged in passing a number of soldiers who had been away for 
 eight months on a visit of inspection to the northern frontier 
 towns. They each received a head of cowries, a bottle of rum, 
 and a small roU of cloth, the total value being, perhaps, half-a- 
 cro^vn. They dusted themselves with as much gusto as though 
 they had been dashed millions ; and exhibited their largesse to 
 all beholders, wearing the cloth round their heads all the day.
 
 CHAP. XII. A DOUBLE CONSCIENCE. 289 
 
 Soou after our arrival we were summoned to the front, and 
 told that we must be "passed." Four baskets of cowries, each 
 containing seven heads, nine bottles of Brazilian caxaca, and a 
 couple of fathoms of striped cotton cloth, of English manufacture, 
 were the passing douceur of Akhosu. Addokpon presented half 
 the above quantity, but gave us four black vessels, like soup- 
 plates, full of blood-stained cowries, with which to make fetiche. 
 The governor received about a third of the articles in the above 
 list, and a number of boys were impressed into our service, who 
 took up the valuables on their heads, and paraded the courtyard 
 three times ; the rear being brought up by a herald, who told 
 everybody who felt disposed to Hsten, that Gelele had given all 
 the treasures they saw to Kerselay and Aguda-avo. Headed by 
 Bukau, the boys perambulated the town, and in about three hours 
 reached our respective homes ; by which time I should think the 
 necks of the cowrie-carriers had sunk a few inches at least into 
 their shoulders. 
 
 Presently a movement amongst the caboceers announced some- 
 thing on the tapis. All appeared to be dressing themselves in 
 long robes of flaming colours, having a patch on the left breast, 
 connected by a scroll, with a similar one on the right shoulder. 
 This was explained to me to be the emblem of the wearer's 
 conscience ! How very convenient to have a conscience before 
 and another behind. 
 
 When all were ready, the sticks were placed in a line, so as to 
 allow the oflB.cers to proceed into the courtyard behind the mat 
 screen, where they disappeared from view. 
 
 McanwhUe, a troop of thirteen young men came to the front, 
 and began a violent speech, saying that Abcokeuta must be taken, 
 and that they were the boys to do it. They then threw down 
 their guns, and swore that unless Gelele gave them new ones, the 
 Amazons would take the town, and would therefore reap the 
 glory of the deed. Kew guns vrere therefore brought out by the 
 Dahkros, and presented to the soldiers, who thereupon com- 
 menced a vigorous capering about, rushing from one side of the 
 
 u
 
 290 THE BUSH-KING'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xii. 
 
 square to the otlicr, and telling everybody that they were 
 going to break in the gates of Abeokeuta, beating their breasts 
 and foaming at the mouth with the violence of their gesticula- 
 tions. 
 
 Ahgo! was then called, and the forlom-hopc hurried out of the 
 palace-yard. The ministers and captains then filed out of the 
 courtyard on our left, and marched three times round the square. 
 The procession was headed by the Agasunno, preceded by twenty 
 fetiche irons, images, and other mysteries. Twenty-four priests 
 surrounded a square box-like affair, carried by a pole, and 
 much resembling an East Indian palkee. A blue cloth veiled 
 this mysterious shrine, and a tattered brown umbrella was held 
 over it. All proceeded at a snail's pace, chanting a tune or 
 funereal measure. This was the Zan-lmku, a word meaning "night 
 is dead " — i. e., when the sun is gone in, all nature dies away. It is 
 supposed to contain the spirit of King Gezu, and is reverenced 
 by all. No one is supposed to know what is within the blue 
 screen, and it was only after we arrived at our quarters that the 
 lily-livered Beecham would tell me what it represented. It is 
 kept within the spirit-house of King Gezu, which will be 
 hereafter spoken of. 
 
 Then came the '•' place " of Gelele, an old white-haired man, 
 imder a crimson velvet umbrella, followed by a yellow and blue, 
 a green and blue, and a white one ; sixt}'-four soldiers, a band, 
 Gelele's stool of war, sundry fetiche images, the skulls of 
 Bakoko and Company, eleven mentadokamen of skulls, and 
 four standards. 
 
 The next escort belonged to Addokpon, who was represented 
 by a man in a scarlet militia tunic with green facings, and a 
 forage cap, with the number 34 in brass figures on it. His 
 umbrellas were chequered red and white ; dark blue, with a yellow 
 tree on the lappets, and a white one "svith blue crossed swords for 
 charges. He was followed by his stool, fetiche images, twenty- 
 seven fighting men, a band, and two flags. 
 
 Then came the Ningan, with an escort of twelve men and a
 
 CHAP. XII. PEOCESSION OF NOBLES. 291 
 
 Prince CharKe tartan umbrella. A band of rattles, six fancy 
 umbrellas, and a rear guard of eighty men succeeded, his stool, 
 musket, and flag being carried in the midst. 
 
 The Meu followed, with a large blue umbrella, with gold fringe 
 on the lappets. His escort consisted of seventy-two men, and 
 contained four parti-coloured umbrellas, his stool, gun, &c. The 
 "place " of the Avogan succeeded; an English union jack, a mule, 
 calabashes, and a band with long lances, being the conspicuous 
 objects in his retinue. 
 
 Then came a band of rattles preceding the fat old Adonejan, 
 who bowed to us as he past. His escort was rather numerous : 
 ninety-seven soldiers, seven umbrellas, a horse, stool, four flags, 
 a large key of wood stained red, ten English easy chairs, a 
 decanter, and a writing-desk. 
 
 Next appeared the Ajakyaho, in a bright yellow tunic. He was 
 preceded by several Asen and red pots, mth strings of cowries 
 round theii' necks, several stools, umbrellas — one a gorgeous afi'air 
 of blue-figured chintz — and two deviced flags followed in the midst 
 of eighty men. 
 
 The Anlinwanun then came before us, followed by the 
 Akpulogan, the Ganzeh, and the Sogau, the latter bestriding 
 a brown pony, and sheltered from the sun by a square umbrella,, 
 alternately red and orange. Next came the Tokpo, whose 
 immense umbrella was adorned with heads and knives alternately, 
 and fringed with yellow streamers. Followed the king's uncle, 
 Bokovo, a grey-haired warrior, who walked by the aid of a long 
 stick. Next came the Tometti, the Vodoh, the Nuage, and tlie 
 Nonpwcnto, all brothers of Gelele, who were followed by the 
 Biwanton, in a splendid robe of black and crimson silk. The 
 Benazon, or treasurer, succeeded, his umbrella being decorated 
 with blue keys on a white ground. Next came the Bukono, with 
 a large party of boys carrying boxes, supposed to contain charms 
 for all the evils that flesh is heir to. He also bowed to us, and 
 danced a few shufiles before the king, his soldier escort of seventy- 
 foui' men wheeling round him during its performance. Then 
 
 U 2
 
 292 THE BUSH-KIXG'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xn. 
 
 came several other captains, whose names need not be mentioned, 
 sixty-two in all. 
 
 A hand of tail dancers preceded the field-marshals of the 
 Dahoman army. First came the Gaou's place, under a 
 suggestive umbrella, representing a number of men blown or cut 
 to pieces ; his stool, calabashes, and war umbrellas were all 
 blackened to show the effect of the gunpowder smoke, and his 
 umbrella-man carried a knob kerri of a human thigh-bone. 
 His escort numbered a hundred and forty men, and had eleven 
 standards charged with various defaces. 
 
 The Matro, or lieutenant to the Gaou, followed with forty- 
 eight men, two umbrellas, and thi-ee flags. 
 
 Then came the Kposu, the field-marshal of the left, a young 
 man who prided himself in a white nanlceen coat of European 
 cut. His escort consisted of ninety-eight men, four umbrellas, 
 and seven flags. 
 
 His lieutenant, the Ahweg-bamen, succeeded him in a green 
 tunic. A white flag, with two green animals in mortal combat, 
 was the only conspicuous object in his escort of sixty-five soldiers- 
 Several other generals followed, and the rear was brought up 
 by a procession of stools, flags, jars, umbrellas, the Amazonian 
 shields, the wooden images on wheels, and a band of razormen. 
 
 We had expected to have proceeded to the market, where all 
 these high functionaries had assembled to see the "Firing for 
 Addokpou," but by the time the last of the razormen had passed 
 out it was quite dark. Lanterns were brought and placed round 
 the ladder, and Gelele descended amidst the "Bloo bloo " of the 
 crowd, and coming to the front of the bamboos, announced, to our 
 satisfaction, that the procession had been too long for him to 
 finish the Custom on that day, so he would fire for Addokpon on 
 the morrow. 
 
 This news appeared to please everybody ; and the Dahkro 
 appealing with our pass rum, we gladly left the palace, the 
 spectators waiting to hear a lengthy speech, by one of the 
 Amazonian officers, about the eternal Abeokeuta.
 
 CHAP. XII. PREPAEATIOXS IX THE MAEKET. 293 
 
 The next morning wo took hammock to the Uhimglo market, 
 and ''brought up" opposite the fetiche sheds. Several gaudy 
 cloths had been substituted for the plain calico covering of the 
 king's Doho ; that of Addokpon remaining in its original 
 simplicity. 
 
 A Bo-fetiche had been erected, consisting of a tall pole painted 
 red and white in spirals, like a barber's emblem, and a rude 
 imitation of a cross-tree at the top, from which hung four skulls, 
 the lower jaws being suspended alongside the crania, which 
 rattled against each other as they swayed to and fro in the 
 breeze. A short topmast, stained blue, upheld a white flag 
 with a variegated double-headed snake "noicdd'' by way of a 
 bearing. 
 
 To the left of the Doho several mat screens shut in a retiring 
 place for the Amazons ; and a long alley of the same material 
 led up to the palace-gate. In front of the pavilion a large white 
 "umbrella was set up, so highly decorated with small figures that 
 it had quite a patchwork appearance from a distance. A closer 
 inspection showed that the charges consisted of the figures from 
 chintzes, prints, and other fabrics, which had been cut out and 
 sewn on by the Amazonian sempstresses. This centre-piece was 
 supported by five other umbrellas, all of gaudy colours ; three on 
 the left hand and two on the right of the king's seat. 
 
 This latter was a rude sofa of native workmanship, covered 
 with a long cushion of leather work, over which several country 
 cloths were thrown. In front of this was a brass table of the 
 Louis Xiy. style, and the gold-rimmcd black hat appeared con- 
 spicuously displayed upon it. The whole of the open space, an 
 area of about 500 yards by 300 yards, was lined with gay um- 
 brellas, the Amazons on the western side near the palace, and 
 the men-soldiers opposite, to the east. The divisional line of 
 bamboos stretched across the area, and in the centre of it the 
 palsied Tononun, "with five assistants, kept the ground clear of 
 children and market-women, who otherwise would have made a 
 free passage • right across the square, even in the presence of
 
 294 THE BUSII-KIXG'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. CHAP. xii. 
 
 royalty itself. I have seen naked lu'chins tumbling about within a 
 few yai'ds of the king, and the huckster women, with their two- 
 cowrie lots of cooked provisions, crying out whilst the king was in 
 the middle of a parliamentary debate. Africanism " will out," and 
 this is one of its phases — the glaring neckties and gloves and patent 
 leather boots of the civilized Sierra Leone merchant is only another. 
 
 The usual burst of savage music heralded the approach of 
 royalty, and Gelele made his appearance clad in the dress of the 
 Ashanti company of soldiers, the blue and white uniform and 
 black accoutrements setting off his stalwart form to advantage. 
 His face was ornamented with three streaks of gunpowder, one 
 under each eye, and a third down the ridge of his nose. This is 
 the distinguishing mark of the Ashanti company. His tunic of 
 blue cloth was covered with little pellets of magic charms, all 
 smeared with blood ; and the short kilt of grey baft was steeped 
 in the sanguine fluid, and fringed with Httle tufts of feathers 
 stuck in cones of leather. His drawers were white, edged with 
 Hack, and his feet were protected by black sandals. Round his 
 head he wore a fillet of black and white velvet plaited, with the 
 «nds streaming behind, and iron armlets, and black cowrie orna- 
 mented fetiche charms were worn on various parts of his person. 
 
 His neck was " gorged " by a string of bloody cowries, with a 
 "black seed between each, and ornaments of a similar pattern 
 €ncircled his wrists. On his left side he carried a " medicine 
 bag " of brown leather, with several black horse-tails depending 
 from it, and a larger one hanging from his right shoulder. A 
 silver-handled dagger was stuck in his black leather cartndge belt, 
 and a crooked black latti, ornamented with steel rings, hung 
 over his left shoulder. His umbrella was tobacco-coloured, 
 and the whole get-up savage in the extreme. He looked like 
 the bloodthirsty monster that he is generally considered to be. 
 
 A battalion of Amazons then formed a line extending across 
 the square, from east to west. They, too, wore a war-dress of 
 grey, brown, or dark blue, covered with tufts of charms, and 
 Nvhite sash over the left shoulder. All wore chokoto, like the
 
 CHAP. XII. THE "FIRIXG FOR ADDOKPON." 295 
 
 men, and were armed with muskets, the pohsh of whose barrels 
 shone out in flashes of light in the glaring sunshine. Behind the 
 king came his five Leopard wives, carrying swords in lieu of 
 guns ; and behind these a number of servants, who loaded the 
 guns for the king's use, handing them first to the Leopardesses, 
 who delivered them to the monarch. 
 
 The frout rank commenced a straggling fire, holding their 
 muskets at the hip with the barrels pointing upwards, so as to 
 prevent accidents, and after the first volley the firing became 
 general. The smoke quickly obscured all save the nearest soldiers 
 from our view, but the ruddy flashes of the guns were visible 
 along the whole line. After firing four rounds they marched 
 across the square, loading as they passed us, and on arriving at 
 the other side fired a second volley. The king then advanced a 
 few paces before the line and fired ofi" twelve muskets. He then 
 danced to his wives, twirhng the stick about a I' Irlandaise, and 
 then crossed to the southern side, followed by the Amazons, who 
 fired as they marched along. The king then came up to us, and 
 fired several brass carbines before our umbrella, and afterwards 
 danced a short fandango. He then returned to his station among 
 the Amazons, and started off to perambulate the square three 
 times, the firing being continued during the march. After the 
 third round a large drum was beaten, and the king danced a 
 peculiar figure, called the " Hun-gbo-gan," or "Big-drum dance." 
 
 The fetiche women loudly cheered the king during his perform- 
 ance, and the " king birds " twittered lustily. The whole battalion 
 then sang a war-song, while the king received a new black latti 
 from a fetiche man. After a preliminary dance, the king 
 advanced to our chairs and beckoned me out. As the tabooed 
 sticks were now in close proximity to our umbrellas, I could only 
 advance a few steps before coming up to them. The king then 
 took hold of my hand and led me across the sticks, while the 
 surprised audience fairly screamed with excitement. I believe I 
 was the first white man who had been honoured with a passage 
 across the bamboos. A stick, similar to the king's, was then.
 
 296 THE BUSH-KIXG'S SO-SIX CUSTOM. chap. xh. 
 
 given mc by tlic Agasunno, and Gclcle and I performed ■ the 
 decapitation dance. After ten minutes of very violent exercise 
 under a midday sun I was permitted to retire, and Geleld drank 
 my health in St. Julien. 
 
 A march across the square and Lack concluded the Amazons' 
 " firing for Addokpon " ; after which they passed off to the western 
 side of the square and sat down under the umbrellas. Gelel^ 
 retii'ed to the shade of the Doho, and sent us a present of cooked 
 provisions, with a message to say that as I had danced I must 
 eat, for he had not done with me yet. A second messenger 
 brought liqueurs and other drinkables, together with a large 
 calabash of fruits. Soon after a third Dahkro came to us, bearing a 
 calabash swathed in a blood-stained cloth. Gelele had sent this 
 to show us what he ate when on the war-trail. The contents 
 were ginger, bananas, fufu, Malaguetta pepper, and pounded cap- 
 sicums. After half-an-hour's interval, a movement among the 
 male soldiery told us that the second part of the firing was about 
 to commence. 
 
 The programme opened by the company who had sworn tt) 
 open the gates of Abcokeuta advancing to the front and capering 
 about like lunatics. They wore kilts and chaplets of palm leaves, 
 while some added a necklace standing up like the collars of 
 good Queen Bess. Burton remarked the contrast of the vivid 
 green of the leaf and the black skin of the wearer, but he says 
 they were blunderbus-men. Next came a party of bayoneteers, 
 all in their war paint, and behind them the main body of the 
 soldiers. 
 
 Gelele then came out, riding on a brown pony -^^ith a bell round 
 its neck. He smoked a long black pipe, and was held on his 
 saddle by four grooms. He stationed himself in the centre of 
 the line, and headed them as they marched across the square and 
 back again ; the movements being similar to those previously 
 gone through by the Amazons. The whole party then formed 
 column, and marched round the square, tumbling over several 
 market sheds and mounting a large heap of earth on the north- 
 
 I
 
 CHAP. XII. AFRICAX COURAGE, 297 
 
 western side of the market-place. They afterwards formed line 
 and advanced towards us, firing as they came, some from the hip, 
 others with the butts of their pieces resting on the ground, with 
 the muzzles pointed forwards. When they arrived within twenty 
 yards of us they suddenly turned round and retreated with stealthy 
 movements, as though stealing up to surprise an enemy. 
 
 When they had passed over to the western side they halted, 
 and the officers arose and marched across to them. The caboceers 
 wore a profusion of steel and cowrie ornaments and charms 
 affixed to every part of their dress, while amulets were hung from 
 their necks, arms, knees, and ankles. I only noticed a few with 
 the Sayan shrub fetiche, as mentioned by Burton ; but I fully 
 concur in his ^iews, that but few Africans would fight at all 
 unless they had fetiche charms to bring them safe out of the 
 melee. What canoeman will venture among the breakers with- 
 out his bits of composite candle stuck in his hair to prevent the 
 sharks taking him ? True, those who possess the magic charms 
 sometimes come to grief, but that is because they have not given 
 a sufficient " dash " to the fetiche man ; not because the charms 
 were incompetent to deliver the hearer out of his danger. Certainly 
 not ! The fetiche priests would be ruined if such a doctrine 
 were promulgated. 
 
 After this manoeuvre, the fetiche people joined the main body, 
 which by this time numbered about a thousand strong. They 
 then advanced towards us, the scouts, standards, and priests in 
 the van, next the officers and the main body in the rear. AU 
 the captains carried their umbrellas, and each division had its 
 own band. Each company was distinct in itself, and marched 
 separate from the rest. The noise of the firing was terrific ; the 
 smoke clinging to the earth, as the sea breeze had not yet set in. 
 This sham-fight was kept up for half an hour, when all the 
 powder being expended, and the usual number of thumbs and 
 arms burnt or shattered, the warriors retired to the southern 
 side of the square. They then marched across the market-place, 
 singing and dancing, and after a final yelp and cheer, fell out of
 
 298 THE BUSH-KING'S SO-SIN CUSTOM. chap. xn. 
 
 the ranks and disiDersed to their umbrellas. Geleld then dis- 
 mounted and called me out to dance a second time, after which 
 he permitted me to return home on my jjromising to come at 
 sunset to see the rum and cowries delivered to the soldiers. 
 
 At 6,30 P.M. we were again at our posts, the two Dohos being 
 lighted up with lanterns. The officers were assembled before the 
 king, who began the evening's performance by a warlike speech. 
 He then distributed the rum to the officers, as was done in his 
 •own Custom, and afterwards called us to the front and gave us 
 fourteen bottles of rum a piece. The cowries were ne^it brought 
 out, each officer receiving from six to ten heads, according to his 
 rank, and we were presented with seven heads as our share. 
 
 Addokpon's Doho was then visited, and half the quantity of 
 Akhosu's present given us as the Bush king's dash. After this 
 the rabble advanced, stripped to their waist cloths. The rum was 
 ■soon exhausted, more than half being wasted as the excited mul- 
 titude pressed forward to get a drink from the royal hand. The 
 rum was handed to the king in uncorked bottles, and his Majesty 
 coming to the front poured some of it down the throat of the 
 nearest man, who was down on his knees, with his thick up- 
 turned lips held in the form of a funnel. The bottle was then 
 given to another person, who retired with it to the rear. After 
 the last of the rum was doled out, loose cowries were thrown, 
 which were scrambled for with the usual uproar. 
 
 Some of the petty officers were mounted on the shoulders of one 
 or a couple of their men, and in that elevated position endeavoured 
 to catch the cowries as they fell like hailstones. This was kept 
 up until past midnight, by which time about thirty pounds' worth 
 of shell coin had been scrambled for. These cowries are exclu- 
 sively used for fetiche purposes, while those given by Akhosu are 
 devoted to the purchase of luxuries, such as rum, tobacco, 
 snuff, &c. 
 
 Gladly did we view the dusky visage of the Dahkro who 
 brought us our pass rum ; and quite tired out with fourteen 
 hours of pleasure, we tumbled into our hammocks and went home.
 
 CHAP. XII. CONCLUSION OF THE SO-SIN CUSTOM. 299 
 
 A firing of guns as we passed into our courtyard announced the 
 departure of the king and the termination of the So-Sin Custom. 
 I hoped to be en route for Whydah in a few days, but was 
 <3oomed to disappointment, for it was months longer before I 
 received my final pass and got free from the overwhelming 
 friendship of the king of Dahomey.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PRESENTATION AT COURT. 
 
 Visit to the king at the Coomassie Palace — Leopard wives — The audience- 
 Smoking — "No pass" as yet— I am a "tame" man — Permitted to visit 
 Mahi — Abeokeuta — The human victims — Drinking healths — Present of 
 girls and men — My escort. 
 
 Soon after dayliglit the next morning, Prince Gugalah came in 
 A\'itli a message from the palace. I roused uj) and received the 
 royal stick with due ceremony. The purport of the message was 
 that the king wished to see me at the palace when the sun was 
 " so high," indicating the position of that luminary ahout 10 a.m. 
 Delighted at the prospect of getting away from the capital, I re- 
 plied that I should feel greatly honoured to attend on his Majesty 
 at the appointed time. Beecham and old " Blood and Cowries " 
 were for hurrying me off to the palace-gate at once, there to sit 
 hrcakfastless, the gazing-stock of a crowd of idlers. Experience 
 had by this time taught me better. I therefore had an early 
 breakfast, dressed at leisure, not forgetting to put up my sketches 
 and material for taking more if opportunity offered. The king 
 was delighted with my rude drawiugs, and gave me every facility 
 for sketching anything I desired. As I had made several that he 
 had not seen, I thought to propitiate his favour by showing him 
 the whole set at once. 
 
 At 9.45 A.M. we were grouped on the Uhon-nukon, under the 
 scanty shade of "the happy Bombax." The tall fetiche had 
 been removed, and we could no longer see the small flags on the 
 top of the pa\'ilion in the Notoh, so in all probability it had been
 
 CHAP. XIII. A LEOPARD WIFE. 301 
 
 taken down also. The gallows in tlie Uliunglo market had like- 
 wise been removed, and the whole scene bore its every-day 
 aspect, except that the flagstaff with the tricoloured "W". was 
 rather more out of the perpendicular than usual, and the flag 
 itself was more holes than bunting. A few caboceers were sitting 
 under the palaver sheds dispensing justice to a few delinquents, 
 the punishment being usually inflicted upon the spot, every facility 
 for carrying it out beiug afforded by the bystanders. 
 
 After about a quarter of an hour's waiting, the crown prince 
 arrived, and arranging his mats under the Pwe sheds, sent for us 
 to have a chat. I noticed that the heads and swish heaps had 
 been removed from the gate, but the fetiche was as rife as ever. 
 In a few minutes we heard the tinkle-tinkle of a bell within the 
 palace, and the ponderous gates were opened by a Dahkro, who 
 cried out "Ahgo." This is the warning that a " Leopard wife " is 
 coming out, and we all arose from our reclining positions and 
 hurried away from the gate. The royal spouse appeared, swagger- 
 ing along with a contemptuous look on her face. She was fol- 
 lowed by twelve servants, the foremost of whom carried a bell, 
 and called out " AJujo " from time to time. 
 
 "When she was out of sight we returned to our mats, and in a 
 few minutes the gates again opened, and the familiar face of our 
 Dahkro appeared. Amoosu and Hahansu went to her ; and 
 knelt down before the royal messengeress to receive her com- 
 munication. She said that the king wanted to see me, and wo 
 were to enter. We all prepared to appear before his Majesty, and 
 preceded by the Dahkro who called out "Ahgo,'' entered the Notoh. 
 xUl bowed their heads as they crossed the square, from which the 
 tent had been removed and every trace of its existence eradicated. 
 We passed through a small gate opposite the outer portal, and a 
 miniature of it in shape, and entered a smaller courtyard. The 
 Pwe shed of this inner gate was utilized as a storehouse for the 
 wheeled images, di'ums, old worn-out carriages, and other 
 curiosities. Turning to the left, we passed through another door, 
 and entered a large Notoh, on the opposite side of which a gay
 
 302 PRESENTATION AT COURT. chap, xiii 
 
 clotli spread on the roof, an umbrella before it, and a few 
 Amazons, at squat, showed us the royal " place." 
 
 After a bow on my part, and the usual itte dai and ko didc on 
 that of every one else, the king came from under the shed and 
 cordially shook hands with me. He then motioned to our Dahkro, 
 who sat on his left hand, to bring out a chair of native manufac- 
 ture, which she placed just outside the white sand line which en- 
 virons the royal seat upon every occasion. Four Leopard wive& 
 sun-ounded their lord, and the fat English landlady tried to keep 
 down the temperature of her ponderous body by the aid of a 
 brass fan. 
 
 Hahansu reclined on his elbow to my right, and Amoosu and 
 Beecham to the left. Behind me Ghugalah, Bukau, and Ha- 
 hausu's pipe-bearer constituted the whole of the attendants, the 
 hammock-men and others remaining outside the palace. 
 
 Gelele was smoking of course, and his first question was, 
 " Why do you not smoke ? " I replied that in England we did 
 not usually smoke in the presence. A pipe was then filled by the 
 royal pipe-bearer, a dark-eyed Mahi girl, and handed to me,, 
 together with a box of Bryant and May's " light-only-on-the- 
 box " Noah's Ark matches. Here was civilization for you — 
 none of the tedious process of striking fire ^nth a flint and steel,, 
 although in public the royal pipe is always lighted by their aid. 
 
 After a few prehminary whiffs the king asked me if I had been 
 pleased with the Custom. I replied that I had, but must confess 
 that I had been detained against my will, and that serious loss 
 would accrue to me on account of the delay. I reminded him 
 that I had consented to visit him with the express understanding 
 that I should be back in AVhydah on the eighth day after leaving 
 it, and that the detention of Europeans was one of the reasons 
 they did not visit him more often. He said that he was sorry I 
 was vexed, and would repay me for all losses incurred by my 
 detention, and for this purpose sent forty heads of cowries to my 
 house the next day. Such Avas his idea of the value of time to an 
 Englishman. He then said that I was a " tame " man, and did
 
 CHAP. XIII, EFFECTS OF BEING A "TAME" MAN. 30» 
 
 not get vexed like Major Burton, as lie is called here ; so he was 
 going to make a Platform Custom this year, in order that I might 
 see it, and give the English people an account of it, for he had 
 heard that some travellers had spoilt his name in England by the 
 erroneous statements they had made respecting his kingdom. Ho 
 said he wished to be friends with every Englishman, but that 
 some who came to him tried to disgrace him before the eyes of 
 his people. "For instance," said he, " Major Burton knew that 
 no person is allowed to visit the place where my drinking-water 
 is obtained, and he got up in the night and went there, thereby 
 causing a great scandal to me before all the people. If a black 
 man were to do so in England he would get a bad name." 
 
 I then asked him when he would commence the Platform 
 Custom. " In one moon." " Will you not permit me to return to 
 "Whydah until then ? " said I. " Why do you wish to leave mc 
 in this manner ? If I allow you to return to Whydah you will 
 go on board a ship and never return, and then all the expense I 
 shall have been put to in making a Platform Custom will be 
 thrown away, and the people who know the Custom is organized 
 on your account will say, * See, the king made a Custom for 
 Kerselay, and he treated him so badly that he would not stay ! ' 
 I cannot let you go to Whydah, but you may see all my country 
 with that exception." Here was a grievous disappointment. I 
 had been two months absent from Whydah and had done nothing 
 in Entomology, for it was a hopeless case to set any of the natives 
 to collect, although I had tried it over and over again. 
 
 I therefore asked the king if he would permit me to visit 
 Mahi and the high mountains, or Soh-daho to the north. Ho 
 was evidently surprised at my request, and asked me why I 
 wished to peril my life among a wild people, where his eye 
 could not watch over me, and pictured to me the treachery and 
 cruelty of the people, in order to deter me from my attempt. I 
 replied that my health was beginning to suffer from too close con- 
 finement to the house, and that his power was sufficient to guard 
 me wherever I went. That little piece of blarney carried the day.
 
 304 PRESENTATION AT COURT. chap. xiii. 
 
 and he gave me permission to go, provided that I was back again 
 by the time the moon "lived so," drawing a crescent in the sand 
 with his walking-stick. 
 
 I thanked him for the permission, and said that I would 
 certainly be back to time. He then asked me when I wished to 
 start. " To-morrow," said I. This startled him. " You 
 English are always in. a hurry ; why not wait till four days from 
 this time, which wiU allow me to collect an escort to protect you 
 from all harm ? '^ I replied that Enghshmcn never put off 
 anything to another day when they could do it at once, and that 
 as for the escort, I would rather be without it. " You may go 
 to-morrow, if you will," said he, " and I will provide you with a 
 guide and escort." 
 
 The king then asked me why the English were good friends 
 with Abeokeuta, when they knew that he was trying to break 
 it. I said that the English had nothing to do wdth the palavers 
 between other people, and that so long as the Abeokeutans 
 treated them properly, they would be friends with them, but that 
 if they behaved badly to any Englishman, they would punish 
 them severely. He then asked me why so many English went 
 to Abeokeuta, and so few to Dahomey. I told him that the 
 Abeokeutans were great trade people, and had plenty of cotton, 
 oil, and kernels, and that if he would devote himself to mercan- 
 tile pursuits, as they did, he would have plenty of xi&its from the 
 English. Another advantage would be the increase of his revenue, 
 and he would not then be put to the expense of his wars. I also 
 told him that the EngKsh looked with abhorrence upon the immo- 
 lation of victims at the Custom, and that until they were put a 
 stop to he would never gain the respect of the English. He 
 assured me that the people he killed had all done wrong, either 
 by transgressing the laws of the country or by making war upon 
 him ; and asked if we did not hang people in England when they 
 killed another man. I replied that we certainly did, but that we 
 did not expose the corpses as he had done, and that the custom 
 of sending messages to the deceased kings by human beings was
 
 CHAP. XIII. 3IY HUMAN PRESENTS. 305 
 
 a cruel and wicked act in the eyes of all civilised nations. " Dif- 
 ferent peoples liave different opinions," said he, " and my fathers 
 did so before me and had the good opinion of the English, who 
 bought plenty of slaves from them." I said that the English now 
 acknowledged that they had done wrong in making slaves of human 
 beings, and that although they desired to keep on friendly terms 
 with him, they could not but condemn the human sacrifices. 
 
 He said that he would tliink over the matter, but that he knew 
 that if he attempted to stop the Custom his people would rise 
 against him and dethrone him ; and then where would be the 
 gain ? Fruit and drinks were then brought out, of which I 
 partook, the king drinking my health, while everyone else bowed 
 their heads. I believe this was the first occasion on which he 
 had allowed the person he was toasting to see him drink the 
 liqueur face to face. It created quite a sensation when it was 
 told outside, and I received the strong name of ^' Beyeh-nim-lipon^^ 
 — "He drinks and looks at (the king's) face." 
 
 He then asked me to show him my sketches, and commented 
 upon them, the ladies joining in the conversation. He asked 
 why the Germans " broke " the French, and passed a very poor 
 compliment upon the Gallic courage in allowing their country to 
 be overrun by an enemy. His memory did not permit him to 
 remember his retreat from Abeokeuta, I suppose ! 
 
 After half an hour of desultory conversation, he whispered to 
 the Dahkro, who disappeared behind a door to the right. In a 
 few minutes she reappeared, leading four Mahi girls by the 
 hand, who were paraded before me. The king then said that he 
 gave mc tliese girls " to cook my food, to wash my clothes, to 
 wait on me, and to do everything for me. If they disobeyed 
 mc, flog them, if they stole my money, flog them. They 
 were in my hand, and I was their master." Four men, also Mahi 
 captives, were then given me, accompanied by a similar speech. 
 
 I thanked him for his kindness to me, and said that I would 
 take care that the English people knew his sentiments with regard 
 to the Custom.
 
 30G PKESENTATIOJf AT COURT. chap. xiii. 
 
 He then arose, wrapped a blue and wliite print around him, 
 and preceded me to the gate, after Dahoman etiquette. 
 
 The audience lasted about two hours, and as soon as I reached 
 my house, I began preparations for setting out to Mahi. The 
 eight human presents cowered down against the wall, not 
 daring to raise their eyes. The officious Bukono wished to parade 
 them through the streets, but I denied him this pleasure, sajing 
 that I would do what I liked with my own property. I packed 
 up nets, boxes, and other entomological paraphernalia, determin- 
 ing to make up for lost time. Amoosu had returned to the palace 
 to receive instructions respecting my journey, and returned at 
 sunset with an escort of eighty soldiers of the Blue Company, 
 under the command of Caboceer Sua-mattoh. I was surprised 
 at the promptitude of the king in supplying the escort in time, 
 a proceeding so much opposed to the usual course of affairs 
 in Dahomey. At the same time I wondered if I was expected 
 to " subsist " this miniature army, as, if such were the case, I 
 determined to forego my excursion altogether. To my relief, 
 however, I found that they carried ten days' " chop " in their 
 haversacks, and had permission from the king to forage on their 
 own account when the supply was exhausted. 
 
 I determined to take the Mahi captives with me in hopes of 
 being able to restore them to their friends, but on announcing 
 my intention to them, they did not aj^pear to care one tittle what 
 I did vnth them. African stolidity again. 
 
 Joe did not approve of my taking him among " bush-men," 
 and went about his work in a very sulky mood. Little Todofweoh 
 was trying to raise his ire by sundry insinuations against his 
 courage, in hopes of having a row, in which this young " Arab " 
 delights, generally managing to get off scot free by his agile 
 movements, much in the same spirit as a London gamin will 
 capsize an old woman's apple-stall and enjoy the pursuit of half 
 a dozen of the panting myrmidons of Col. Henderson. Boyish 
 exuberance of spirits is much the same from Esquimaux- to 
 Fuegan, and from Japanese to Blackfeet.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE KONG MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Start for Mahi — Gymnastic travelling — Sohmeh — Kanah — Bobai — Zeugnoomie 
 — Mbomen — R. Lagos— Canoe-malsing — Leopards — Blood-thirsty enemies 
 — Dovoh. monkeys — Abundance of game — Pawch-Ahunseh — Driver ants — 
 The Mahi captives— Iron-smelting — Picnicing — Delightful climate— The 
 hill " Difficulty"— Ampasim — Visit to Zoglogbo, the Dahoman Magdala — 
 African naturalists — Splendid view — Kodongo — Bevangeh — Lions — 
 Dorseh — Pahlookoh — Its history — Ants again — Beautiful scenery — 
 Kangro —Native panic — Jallaku — Elephants — Pythons— A man-eating 
 hyaena — Vedoh — Mbogelah — A thirsty Aquarius — Chararah — Ascent of 
 the peak— Glorious sunrise — Extensive prospect — The glacial epoch- 
 Return to Abomey. 
 
 Long before sunrise the next morning, Monday, September 
 25th, Amoosu was astir, assigning the loads to each porter, of 
 whom I had six, not including the four Malii captives presented 
 to me by the king. Egblie-egbah seemed to be possessed with 
 an evil spirit, for he was dancing and capering about as though 
 the prospect of a long day's march was the most delightful thing 
 in the world. Joe, as usual, carried my gun. Beccham had 
 prepared for a long walk iy tahiurj off his shoes, those emblems 
 of civilization being too irksome to permit free movement in his 
 snow-shoe-like feet. 
 
 By daybreak all was ready, and the advanced guard of thirty 
 soldiers, provided with tinkling bells round their necks, marched 
 off. The porters followed ; next came my humble self, and the 
 remainder of the escort brought up the rear. The Uhon-nukon 
 was soon passed, not a soul being visible except the guard under 
 the Pwe shed, who struck up a livcUer air on our approach.
 
 308 JOURNEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap. xiv. 
 
 Turning the soutli-"w^estern angle of tlie palace we crossed the 
 open space opposite the western gate, and soon found ourselves 
 filing along the narrow paths between the scattered huts of the 
 western suburb. The morning was chilly, the thermometer indi- 
 cating 68° F., a temperature about 5° below the average, and a 
 thick white mist enveloped all but the nearest objects. A 
 drenching dew, such as is only to be found in the tropics, 
 saturated everj' bush and tree, and the drops descending in 
 copious showers as they were shaken off by our passage, soon 
 wetted us through. 
 
 Beyond the suburb we entered the maize plantation, and a 
 walk of ten minutes brought us to the edge of the table-land 
 upon which the metropolis of Dahomey is built. On favourable 
 opportunities the southern spurs of the Mahi hills are visible 
 from this cliff, but we had only a view over a rolling sea of fog, 
 the plain beneath peeping through occasional drifts in the mists, 
 looking Kke islands in a cloudy ocean. The descent was preci- 
 pitous in the extreme. Egblie-egbah wished to show off the 
 proficiency of his hammockmanshij) by carrjing me down, but 
 having no spare neck, I declined the honour, and descended 
 from my hammock. Even then I was not unthankful for the aid 
 of a couple of bearers, for the road (!) was full of rolling blocks 
 of sandstone, rendering foothold very insecm-e. 
 
 At the foot of this precipice there is an extensive plantation 
 belonging to the inhabitants of the collages near at hand. 
 
 A large market is held here every alternate fifth day, and a 
 great portion of the vegetables sold in Abomey arc raised in the 
 neighbourhood. Several small rills gurgled down the slopes, 
 feeding the large pond known as the Elemeh water, and finally 
 losing themselves in the marsh beyond. This swamp is a small 
 repetition of the Aglime Kho ; but trees are few and far between. 
 The pathway led across hummocks of peaty soil which shook 
 under our footsteps, as we jumped fi-om one heap to the other, 
 and at frequent intervals some unlucky person would come 
 down with a " swish " which, if it softened his fall, bespattered
 
 CHAP. XIV. THE ELE:\rEH SWAMP. 309 
 
 his neighbours with mud. So difficult was the passage of this 
 morass that it was past noon ere we reached the other side, and 
 we were glad to reach the village of Soh-mch and have a rest 
 under the shade of the palaver shed. The caboceer came out 
 and presented water, and wished to get up a dance, but I told 
 him I would rather be excused, and he seemed pleased to get off 
 the display of his meagre retinue. 
 
 We were soon en voyage, the country being of an undulating 
 character, but exceedingly picturesque from the clump of magnifi- 
 cent trees that crowned each hill, while on our right we saw a low 
 range of hills running in a S.W. direction. In a short time we 
 reached the village of Kanah, and our tired hammock-men again 
 had a rest. 
 
 The caboceer was at Abomey " doing Custom," and his locum 
 tencm had but a poor company to receive us, much to my delight, 
 for I was too tired with the jolting of my hammock to care 
 about any great parade. Two miles beyond is Bobai, a repetition 
 of N'Henveh dovoh, with its environs of noble forest trees. 
 
 Wc had now marched fifteen miles, and the sun was 
 pouring down upon our heads with terrific force. I proposed 
 a halt, but Suamattoh and Amoosu told me that their instruc- 
 tions were to take me to Zeugnoomie, twelve miles further, 
 before encamping for the night, and that they dared not disobey 
 their orders. 
 
 After a stay of an hour at Bobai, we started afresh, the 
 Denun keeper abundantly besmearing himself before the lung's 
 stick. Todofweoh, as usual, was plaguing Joe, and the caustic 
 remarks of this little imp caused great merriment to the porters. 
 In about an hour we crossed a small stream having no particular 
 name, since every inquiry only elucidated " TFoh," which means 
 " a river." The country still continued its rolling character, 
 with thick topes of trees, such as the silk-cotton, the tamarisk, 
 the shea butter, and many others. 
 
 At length the plantations of a large town appeared, covering 
 the slope of one of the hills, and shortly after wc heard the
 
 310 JOUPtXEY TO TEE KONG MOUXTAIXS. chap. xiv. 
 
 chirrup of the pahn finches, the heralds of every market place. 
 Our train marched on with a brisker step, and at five o'clock we 
 found ourselves in the market shed of Zeugnoomie, the native 
 town of the Men who preceded the present officer holding that 
 rank. Its former name was Setta, or Setta Dean, hut Gelele 
 changed it, together with that of several others, soon after his 
 accession to the throne. There is a large market in this place, in 
 the centre of which are four huge trees covered with large hats 
 of the same species as those at Alladah and Kana. 
 
 Zeugnoomie is twenty-eight miles from Ahomey, and the 
 aneroid gave an altitude of 620 feet. As far as its general 
 appearance goes, it is much the same as other large towns, 
 scattered over a considerable area, and containing, perhaps, five 
 thousand inhabitants. The caboceer was ill, and his lieutenant 
 away at the capital, consequently we were received by the third 
 in command. At my urgent request the ceremony was postponed 
 until sunset, as we had not had a substantial meal all day, and a 
 five o'clock p.m. breakfast is rather late for even the gayest bird 
 in Cockaigne. 
 
 The reception was of the usual character ; a few corybantic 
 dances, accompanied by a blo\\'ing of horns and a noise of drums 
 and gong-gongs, after which a fcu-de-joie was given as a 
 salute. 
 
 At eight o'clock I turned into my hammock which had been 
 slung up in the cabocecr's house, and, in spite of a fearful raid 
 of ants upon the premises, slept soundly until old Blood-and- 
 Cowries woke me at sunrise. 
 
 Making a hearty breakfast off" some cooked provisions which 
 had been sent as a present from the caboceer, we left Zeugnoomie 
 about half-past six o'clock. The caboceer accompanied us for the 
 first mile, leaving us at the edge of a small stream that flowed, 
 ankle deep, to the east. Passing the village of Zoogeh, we 
 entered a thick forest where numerous monkeys scampered off 
 at our approach. In an hour we reached the "s-illagc of Mbomen, 
 where the finest shea-butter I ever tasted is made. The market-
 
 CHAP. XIV. CAXOES AXD CANOE MAKING. 311 
 
 shed is fringed with a row of threaded cockle shells brought from, 
 the coast, and which are considered to have a remarkable efficacy 
 against witchcraft. 
 
 After a brief halt, we again set off, being now within the 
 boundary of the old kingdom of Mahi, and at nine o'clock 
 arrived at the banks of a considerable stream, flowing eastward. 
 This was the first river of any size we had come to, and the 
 steep banks formed a striking contrast to the flat swampy borders 
 of the. Whydah lagoon. The forest came up close to the bank, 
 and the luxurious undergrowth was literally smothered in flowers 
 of the gayest hues. In vain did I try to delay the progress of 
 my caravan. They had received certain instructions from the 
 king, and must carry them out, therefore they could not permit, 
 me to do anything that might lead to harm. Such was the 
 excuse that was held up to me whenever I attempted to stay the 
 forced march through the country. Suamattoh assured me that 
 if he failed in bringing mo to the appointed resting places every 
 night, his head would be the forfeit. He said that a messenger 
 had been despatched before us who would inform the caboceers 
 of my coming ; and, if I delayed the escort, serious palavers 
 would be the result. He also informed me that the king had 
 demanded his eldest son as a guarantee of his fulfilling the in- 
 structions given to him. He assured me that this was all for 
 my good, and that the king " loved me too much " not to take 
 the greatest care of me. 
 
 This news was anything but pleasant. I had hoped to have 
 made a slow journey through the hilly country, and collected 
 specimens as opportunity ofi'ered. Instead of this I was carried 
 by forced marches at the rate of thirty miles per day. 
 
 This stream is the upper portion of the river, flowing into the 
 sea at Lagos. It was crossed by Mr. Duncan at the same place. 
 He calls it the Zoa, but that word means " the river," not this 
 particular river, but any stream of water. 
 
 We were ferried across in three immense canoes, each ninety 
 feet long, and six feet broad, cut out of the trunks of the
 
 312 JOUENEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap. xiv. 
 
 gigantic trees growing on the bank. The mode of constructing 
 one of these canoes is as follows : — 
 
 A tree is selected with a suitable straight trunk, growing near 
 the water's edge. It is felled towards the stream, and a portion 
 of the trunk of the length of the intended canoe divested of 
 bark and limbs. The top is then hewed flat with rude axes, and 
 the sides trimmed to a rough boat-Hke form with the same tool ; 
 the ends being sharpened in some instances, and in others sloping 
 upwards from the bottom of the boat, but not narrowing into the 
 usual form of a bow and stem. A groove is then dug out round 
 the edge of the upper surface of the canoe, leaving a sufficient 
 thickness to allow the sides to have the necessary strength. 
 Fires are then lighted along the top of the canoe, and kept 
 constantly alight, the charred wood being removed from time to 
 time to expose a fresh surface to the action of the heat. The 
 fire is prevented from burning the sides by wetting them with 
 water, and this process is continued until the whole of the 
 internal portion of the canoe is burnt out. The canoe is then 
 fiUcd with water, and thwarts inserted across it at short dis- 
 tances, which are kept close up to the sides by wedges. As the 
 wood swells the wedges are driven up, until the canoe attains its 
 greatest proportions, and the sides are in danger of splitting. The 
 water is usually heated during this process, by dropping red- 
 hot stones into it. When the process of stretching is com- 
 pleted, the water is emptied out, the wedges kept well driven 
 up, and the canoe left to dry. 
 
 All having safely crossed, we resumed our journey along a 
 narrow path through a thickly- wooded jungle. 
 
 A cry from the advanced guard of "Kini-Kini" made me snatch 
 my gun from Joe and hurr}' to the front ; but, on arri\ing at the 
 van, I was just in time to see the tail of a fine leopard dis- 
 appearing in the bushes. As this animal is sacred, I dared not 
 follow it, but was obliged to return to my hammock with an 
 empty game-bag. Numerous black Tahandae aHghting on the 
 bare backs of the soldiers and porters gave them considerable
 
 CHAP. XIV, HALT AT DOVOH. 313 
 
 annoyance by their painful bites, wliich caused a stream of blood 
 to dribble from the puncture. It was ludicrous to see the people 
 slapping each other to kill or drive off their tormentors, a grunt 
 of satisfaction accompanying each successful stroke. 
 
 In about half an hour we emerged fi'om this jungle and 
 entered upon a grassy savannah, a very hotbed of snakes, the 
 advanced guard having to keep their eyes open to avoid treading 
 upon the reptiles, which seem to have a penchant for sunning 
 themselves in pathways, ready to spring upon any intruder. 
 The land descended with a slope towards the north, the altitude 
 being only 882 feet. We came shortly afterwards to a fork in 
 the road, the path to the right leading to the village of Nkordeh. 
 
 A few miles on we saw a high hill to the eastward, probably 
 the "mountain" of Gbowelley mention by Duncan. We were 
 now fairly in the hill country of Mahi, and the fresh bracing air 
 blowing from the north-east was very different from the fever- 
 laden winds of the sea-board. 
 
 Halting at the viUage of Dovoh, where we met a train of 
 women carrying cotton to the Abomey market, we indulged in a 
 short tiffin and a long smoke. Joe was busy with a packet of 
 needles I had given him bujong some onions from a market 
 woman, the stumbling-block being that she wanted to have the 
 needles in the paper case, while Joe insisted upon retaining it for 
 his own use. Maize grows here in perfection, and the Mahis 
 make a very palatable cake by grinding it between two 
 stones, and mixing the flour with water and a dash of shea- 
 butter, and baking it in the usual earthenware oven. Monkeys 
 abounded, and I shot five, much to the delight of Joe, who, like 
 his master, had a particular fancy for the gamey flavour of the 
 quadrumana, in spite of their very " babyish " appearance. 
 
 Starting afresh we proceeded at a brisk walk for a mile and 
 a half, when M^e again came to a halt at a small village re- 
 joicing in some unpronounceable name in the Mahi lan- 
 guage. A small stream running to the east, most likely joining 
 the Lagos river below, supplied us with a few fish, which Joe
 
 3U JOUENEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap. xiv. 
 
 inirchased for a few needles. Several lofty hills were visible from 
 the village ; notably one bearing W. by N., which our guide 
 ■called Wheseh. The aneroid gave an altitude of 762 feet to this 
 village. 
 
 Guinea fowl abounded, being quite as numerous there as the 
 ordinary domestic species ; and cattle, goats, hairy sheep, ducks, 
 and swine, seemed to be in the possession of the very poorest. 
 
 Leaving this village, which would certainly take a long time to 
 starve out, we again proceeded, and late in the afternoon arrived 
 at Paweh-Ahunseh, where we intended to remain. This town is 
 iibout the size of Kana, and is mostly built of swish. It stands 
 in a commanding position on the summit of a hill, and the 
 view from it, especially on the southern side, extends for a 
 considerable distance. The Denun was an elaborate archway of 
 wattled poles, from the centre of which a joji, consisting of two 
 tortoises hung back to back, brought good luck to all passing 
 under it. 
 
 "We passed through a market where the usual bustle was going 
 -on, although many of the stalls were empty, the proprietors 
 having probably "sold out." The goods exposed were mostly 
 similar to those in other towns, but there were fewer cloths of 
 European manufacture, the grass- woven produce of the country 
 being substituted. 
 
 We halted under the shade of an immense Bombax vying 
 with the " big tree " of Whydali in its gigantic girth of trunk. 
 The deputy caboceer advanced to meet us, preceded by a band of 
 players on the flute and gong-gong, and though for the life of me 
 I could not detect the slightest approach to a tune, the musical 
 " pie " was not unharmonious. Water was offered, followed by 
 rum, and the caboceer proceeded to " compliment " me for all 
 dangers, past and to come. The king's health was honoured, all 
 bowing to the ground, and finally the " king's white man " was 
 toasted in caxaca. A present of a bullock, two goats, four ducks, 
 twelve fowls, some eggs, yams, maize, and a quantity of cooked 
 provisions, was then made mc, and after a few complimentary
 
 CHAP. XIV. " DRIVER ANTS." 315 
 
 speeclies we again started, the caLocccr leading the way to his 
 house situated in the centre of the to^vn. Arrived there, half 
 the escort went back to the market-place to sleep under the 
 sheds, as the accommodation at the caboceer's was not sufl&cientl}'" 
 ample to afford sleeping room for so large a number as ourselves. 
 The next morning Amoosu arrived as usual at daybreak, but 
 to his surprise found me sitting enjoying a pipe on an inverted 
 water-po.t. I said that it was useless for him to hurry me, for 
 that I had been waging war to the knife with a marauding ex- 
 pedition of " driver ants" which had endeavoured to make a bridge 
 )f my hammock-pole from one eave of the hut to the other. If 
 they had contented themselves with quietly passing over, I 
 should not have cared so much, but they were continually 
 sending out scouts, who investigated the nature of my flesh to 
 such a degree, that I was forced to shake them off. This move- 
 ment only made matters worse, and in an instant I was literally 
 smothered with the " varmint," and had I not stopped and 
 emptied a large bowl of water over myself, I should have paid 
 dearly for my temerity. As it was, Joe and I were occupied for 
 nearly an hour in picking their heads out of my flesh, for so 
 tenacious was their hold that they would suffer themselves to be 
 torn to pieces rather than let go. 
 
 Amoosu said that we were only going to make a short 
 journey on that day, but we must purchase provisions here, 
 since this was the frontier town of "the king's old country," 
 meaning that wo were on the confines of the district over which 
 the king kept absolute rule, and that beyond I should meet with 
 the wild people who were held up to me as a bugbear to frighten 
 me out of my desire to visit Mahi. 
 
 About eleven o'clock we were drawn up in the market ready 
 to start on our journey. A kind of review of the soldiers in our 
 escort was held, followed by a display of the garrison of the 
 town. These latter were about a hundred in number, and all 
 wore grass-cloth petticoats, with numerous cross-belts suspending 
 various charms, amongst which the tortoise predominated, that
 
 316 JOmXEY TO THE KOXG MOUNT.\IXS. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 animal being the tutelary deity of the to\vn. Some were armed 
 with flint guns and others with bows and a^ro^v's, the bows being 
 of the suddenly recurved tj^e carried by Chuydatoh's company, 
 whose uniform and ornament were coj^icd from the Mahis. 
 
 My eight human presents here intimated to Amoosu that 
 if I was really going to leave them in their owti country, 
 they would rather remain here, where they would have a chance 
 of seeing some of their own collage mates, than go with me 
 further into the interior. As their native town was about twelve 
 miles east of this place, and the caboceer agreed to take charge 
 of them until they found means to return to their homes, I 
 agreed to their request, upon which they knelt down and 
 smothered themselves with dirt. The caboceer then gave them 
 in charge to one of his people, and they went off to his house. 
 On my return, I learnt that they fell in with a friend two days 
 after my departure, and returned with him to their own locality. 
 
 The review being over, we started amidst a volley of guns and 
 in twenty minutes arrived at the gates of the town. This was 
 the blacksmith's quarter where the iron ore obtained in the 
 neighbourhood is smelted. The furnaces are of the usual trun- 
 cated conical shape, and the ore and wood are stacked up in 
 alternate layers until the furnace is filled. A fire is then lighted 
 and a blast kept up by means of goat-skin bellows. The molten 
 metal runs into holes cut in the earth, and the knives, agricul- 
 tural implements, and fetiche irons used in the ncighboui'liood 
 are made from the pigs. The Avorkmanship was very good, much 
 similar to that of the M'pangwcs of Gaboon. 
 
 Bidding adieu to the hospitable caboceer, we continued our 
 journey. Numerous herds of cattle, enclosed in fences like the 
 kraals of South Africa, bellowed at us as we passed ; and the 
 frequent trains of porters .bearing produce to the market bespoke 
 the wealth and industry of the people. Cotton grew on every 
 side ; but little, however, being manufactured into cloth at this 
 town, the main bullv being carried to Abomey. 
 
 The walls round the town reminded me of the Abomey gates.
 
 CHAP. XIV. PAWEH-AHUNSEH. 317 
 
 but tlie swisli rampart encircled the town in tlic present instance, 
 in addition to whicli a thick bush of thorny shrub afforded a 
 further protection. Just outside the gate is a small market- 
 place, the resort of traders from the various Houssa towns to the 
 north, who bring leather bags, cloth, and other commodities to 
 barter for the ironware brought from the coast to Paweh- 
 Ahunseh. 
 
 In about an hour we came to a junction between two roads, 
 that to the right leading to the river Taweh, and the Zogiogbo 
 mountains, whilst the one to the left proceeded to Ampasim. 
 
 Our way led through a dense forest, inhabited by numerous 
 leopards, hyasnas, and other /cr^e naturce, and our people kept 
 well together, instead of straggHng over a distance of a mile from 
 van to rear, as they had hitherto done. 
 
 I call the path a road, but it was a mere sheep track, nothing 
 like the broad clear highway between the Coast and Abomey. 
 A march of three miles brought us to a small stream, most likely 
 the Aditay of Duncan, and we availed ourselves of an opening 
 in the forest to partake of tiffin. Our party formed quite a 
 picturesque group ; the soldiers eating huge mouthfuls of cankie 
 or tearing the meat off the rib of a roasted porker ; while Egblie- 
 egbah amused the whole company with his sallies of wit. Four 
 miles further on, we came to a second stream, the Taweh of 
 Duncan, running over a pebbly bottom, and deliciously cool to 
 the dusty feet of the travellers. 
 
 The country then began to assume a rugged appearance, the 
 hills being broken up by ravines and long glens, which were richly 
 wooded on their summits with clumps of African oak, mahogany, 
 and other trees. The valleys were covered with a profusion of 
 tall grasses, in which numerous deadly serpents lurked. 
 
 To the north, the blue peaks of some lofty range proclaimed 
 our approach to the Kong mountains, and the air had an 
 exhilarating feel, which roused the sluggish blood that drowsily 
 coursed through the veins under the enervating climate of the 
 coast lands.
 
 318 JOUENEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap, xiv. 
 
 Three miles further on, we came to a steep hill, up which wc 
 had to climb. The path was a mere goats' track, so narrow, that 
 we had to proceed in Indian file. Huge blocks had to be 
 surmounted, reminding me of the ascent of the pjrramids of 
 Ghizeh, and occasionally a boulder dislodged by the feet of the 
 advanced party would come rolling and crashing do-svn the path. 
 
 After a difRcult ascent of about five hundred feet, the comitry 
 became more level, seeming to indicate that we had surmounted 
 one of the rises on the terraced system of the hills of Mahi. A 
 mile further on, we came to the village of Sundoweh, where wc 
 made but a slight halt. The people here were by no means so 
 good-looking as the Ffons, their features being more brutal and 
 repulsive, and they had not the same regard for personal clean- 
 liness. Some of the labourers we met were clad in nothing but 
 a narrow petticoat of coarse grass cloth, with a " languti " of the 
 same material beneath. All stared at the unprecedented spectacle 
 of a white man escorted by a company of the king's soldiers. 
 Their amazement was extreme, and upon recovering theii' 
 sm'prise, they dropped upon their knees, and performed the 
 Ko dide. 
 
 Resuming our journey, we travelled over an undulating- 
 country for the next two miles, until we arrived at a small town 
 called Ampasim. Here we were entertained by the cabocecr, 
 Nquaveh, who had received news of our approach from a runner, 
 and had prepared a sumptuous repast for our delectation, which 
 was served under an immense baobab in the court-yard of his 
 house. He first offered us the usual heart- cooling water, and 
 the rum, palm wine (most execrable stufi"), dohr, a sour liquor 
 made from maize and other drinkables. If quality was absent, 
 there was certainly no stint, perhaps on the same rule that the 
 miles on bad roads have always good measure. Fowls, roasted 
 and boiled, pigs, pigeons, and goat's flesh, were then brought in, 
 together with yams, sweet potatoes, and roasted plantains. There 
 was an abundant feast, and the hospitable cabocecr seemed dis- 
 pleased if we declined to taste of any of the dishes. Of course
 
 ' 'I 

 
 CHAP. XIV. BANQUET AT AMPASIM. 31& 
 
 there were no knives, forks, or spoons, except those brought by 
 ourselves ; and all the viands were served on plantain leaves 
 spread on calabashes placed on the ground. The production of a 
 plate by Joe caused considerable surprise, for scarcely any of the 
 bystanders had ever seen such an article before. 
 
 During the feast a numerous band of flutes, harps, and gong- 
 gongs, not forgetting the noisy drum, kept up a deafening noise, 
 while a crowd outside them gazed with eager faces at the king's 
 white man. They did not appear the least shy, especially the 
 juveniles, but indulged in criticising remarks and laughable jokes 
 Avith each other, doubtless at our expense. 
 
 Dinner over, pipes were produced, and after a smoke Nquaveh 
 conducted me to a small thatched shed, where I was to pass the 
 night. 
 
 Ampasim is pleasantly situated on the top of a rising ground, 
 and contains about a thousand inhabitants. The general asj)ect 
 of the place was very different from that of the towns nearer the 
 capital. The houses were for the most part circular wattled 
 structures, with a conical thatched roof, much resembling those 
 of the Kroomen near Gran Sesters, on the windward coast. The 
 interior is sometimes divided into two apartments by a mat parti- 
 tion, but children and parents usually sleep in one room, the 
 bedstead being the floor of the hut covered with a mat. 
 
 European cloth was becoming very scarce, none but the very 
 wealthiest possessing any clothing except the native grass cloth. 
 This, however, was woven in striped or chequered patterns, and 
 was much softer to the touch than might be supposed from the 
 material of which it was composed. 
 
 None but the cabocecrs and priests eat animal food more than 
 once a week, and even then the meat is usually eaten in a semi- 
 raw state. Goats, fowls, pigeons, pigs, and Guinea fowl abound^ 
 but rats, snakes, dogs, bats, and lizards are greedily devoured. 
 
 Most of the people were engaged in cutting the long grass and 
 tying it in small bmidles, which were dried in the sun. This is 
 principally used for thatching their houses, and is fixed on the
 
 320 JOUEXEY TO THE KOXG MOUXTAIXS. chap. xiv. 
 
 wattled roof by small pegs and grass-rope. Beads were in great 
 demand, so also were brass rings, from curtain hoops to finger 
 rings. The fashion obtains of inserting a ring through the carti- 
 lage of the nose or ear ; and a lady who can afford both is a belle 
 indeed. 
 
 The next morning we continued our journey, intending to pay 
 a visit to a lofty hill called Zoglogbo, distant some five miles to 
 the east. Our road was none of the best, being a mere track, 
 and travelling had become very irksome, as sometimes one of the 
 hammockmon would be standing on a part of the road three feet 
 higher than the other, as they stepped from hummock to hum- 
 mock. 
 
 The road led through a very rugged country, gradually rising, 
 with a few level stretches here and there. The scenery was truly 
 magnificent, the day being particularly fine and a deliciously 
 cool north-east wind blowing. In the patches of verdure many 
 beautiful flowers were just bursting into bloom, and the trees bore 
 a refreshing emerald hue instead of the parched, bumt-up 
 appearance of those in the lowlands. The black and yellow 
 canary was abundant, twitting from bush to bush, reminding me 
 of an English lark ; and majestic eagles soared aloft above our 
 lieads. 
 
 In two hours we arrived at a cluster of huts at the foot of the 
 mountain, where we halted while Amoosu went on ahead to 
 inform the cabocecr of our arrival. While waiting his return 
 I prowled about, net in hand, in hopes of taking a few Lepi- 
 doptera, but I was so pestered by the guards that surrounded me 
 that I only took four specimens in an hour. Whenever I made 
 an attempt to catch one, a dozen soldiers would join in the pur- 
 suit, brandishing their weapons and taking off their waistcloths 
 to knock dovra the insect. The result may be imagined. Either 
 the insect got off scot free and hurried away at a pace rendering 
 pursuit a hopeless task, or it was battered out of all resemblance 
 to a butterfly by the cloths of the soldiers, who would often con- 
 summate their attempts by putting their foot on the insect and
 
 CHAP. xrv-. AFEICAX NATUEALISTS. 321 
 
 then bringing it to me in triumph. Grasshoppers and mantidae I 
 could obtain by bushels ; but it was a hopeless case to attempt to 
 teach the " bush people " to collect. As an instance of the way 
 they go about, I was accustomed to offer a glass of rum to any 
 person whe would bring me insects. Upon one occasion a man 
 brought me a dung beetle amongst a peck of smashed locusts. I 
 showed it to liim and asked if he could obtain some more. 
 " Oh yes," said he, and away he went. The next afternoon he 
 appeared with about thirty of these coleoptera, which was a 
 common one, and received his pay of two glasses of rum with 
 great glee. I was prevented from going to the place where he 
 obtained them in consequence of the King's Custom going on. 
 After four days of this sort of work I thought I had obtained 
 enough of this species, and asked him if he never saw any 
 other beetles. " Oh yes," was his reply, " but they don't be 
 good," and I found that he had been carefully selecting the com- 
 mon ones to the exclusion of other, perhaps new, species. Do all 
 I could I never succeeded in impressing upon him that I wanted 
 all he could obtain " both good and bad." He said I was " vexed 
 for true " and gave up all idea of collecting from that time. 
 
 But, to get back to Zoglogbo. On the arrival of the head man 
 my guards performed a war dance, the caboceer going through 
 his exercise in front of our chairs. Water and peto, or native 
 beer, was brought and healths drunk. We then prepared to 
 enter the town. Like all Mahi towns, it was built on the summit, 
 of a hill, the only access to it being through a narrow pass which 
 led up the steep side of the hill. In some places it was sa 
 narrow that only one man could pass at a time ; and so steep that 
 the aid of an alpen stock was necessary. Large boulders appeared 
 here and there, the road winding round the larger ones and lead- 
 ing over those of less magnitude. 
 
 On either side a thick wood shut in the view. This narrow 
 gorge was allowed to remain in its almost impassable condition as a 
 national defence ; and certainly a mere handful of men armed 
 with breech-loaders could defend the pass against any numbers.
 
 ;«2 JOUEXEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap. xiv. 
 
 As we ncared the summit tlie road somewhat improved, and in a 
 short time wo passed through the gates of the town. 
 
 A thick wattled fence surrounded this Dahoman Magdala ; the 
 gates being of the usual rough-hewn plank, turning on wooden 
 hinges and thickly studded with iron plates. A Josusu, consisting of 
 an owl, a round pot, and a string of cowries, hung above the 
 portal ; and the guard squatted outside armed with rusty guns, and 
 bows and an-ows. A broad Toad led round the wall, and the houses 
 commenced about forty yards within the enceinte. 
 
 The summit was evidently an extinct crater, confirming my 
 opinion that the Zoglogbo was of volcanic origin. In this depres- 
 sion a collection of about a thousand houses was built, some of 
 them of large size, and built of wattled brushwood daubed with 
 clay. In the centre was a market-place, where the simple 
 necessaries of life could be obtained. The caboceer led the way 
 to his own residence, situated on the north side of the town. As 
 we passed through the streets a crowd of persons came to the gates 
 of their houses and stared at us. "\Ye saw two circular ponds or 
 tanks which supplied the water for the consumption of the towns- 
 people, the rains filling them in the months of July and August. 
 
 Several fetiche houses were erected on the banks, the shrines 
 of the rain god, and we saw several parties of worshippers pre- 
 senting their offerings of cooked food and native beer. 
 
 Arrived at the caboceer's quarters, we were again presented 
 with water and peto, and I delighted our host by handing him 
 my tobacco pouch and telling him to help himself. He appeared 
 particularly pleased because I smoked a native pipe, and was con- 
 tinually jDointing it out to his wives and children as a remarkable 
 circumstance. Soon after this a calabash of water was brought 
 to us by a female slave, who held it while we washed our hands, 
 towels being of course dispensed \vith. A variety of cooked 
 meats, stews, and vegetables were then set out on the floor of the 
 room, and we fell to with fingers, the caboceer frequently helping 
 me to some of the dainty morsels with his own hand. We took 
 up a morsel of cankie, and with it scooped up a mouthful from
 
 CHAP. XIV. \1SIT TO THE ZOGLOGBO MOUXTAIN. 323 
 
 any of the viands that pleased us, washing our fingers from time 
 to time in small calabashes placed by our side. 
 
 I was then given to understand that we should remain in the 
 town till the following day, and in the afternoon took a walk 
 round the place. The town contains about two thousand inhabi- 
 tants, but at the time of my visit the greater portion of the men 
 were absent at the Customs in Abomey. Large boulders of 
 granite impend over the edge of the crater in several places, 
 looking as if a very slight push would send them crushing upon 
 the houses below. Heaps of stones were collected at intervals 
 near the gates, and I was told that they were intended to be 
 showered down upon the heads of any persons who might have the 
 temerity to attack this hill fort. The view, from a mound near 
 the caboceer's, was truly sublime. We could see far away on the 
 western horizon the cloud-capped summits of the hiUs near 
 Krobo and Aquipim, and the more distinct outline of the interme- 
 diate range extending in a south-westerly direction towards the 
 river Yolta, where they gradually become merged into the low- 
 l}dng swampy plains near the coast. 
 
 Northwards was the conspicuous peak of Kpaloko, and on the 
 north-east the three mountains which have been called the 
 Egehlin, or Cankie Mountains, from a fancied resemblance 
 to three lumps of cankie placed close together. Opposite the 
 southern gate was a similar entrance to the town, with a steep 
 road leading to the north. It appeared as if the mountain had 
 been split by some gigantic throe of nature, and the debris falhng 
 into the fissure had partially filled it up. These two fissures were 
 the only means of access to the town. Numerous goats were 
 feeding on the rocks, and a herd of fourteen black cattle 
 were rubbing themselves against the angles of one of the larger 
 houses. 
 
 Cotton grows in profusion in the neighbourhood, but is rarely 
 made use of, the natives being either too lazy or too stupid to 
 weave cloth for themselves, other than the grass waist cloths 
 worn by everybody. Several Mohammedans reside in the town, 
 
 Y 2
 
 324 JOURNEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap. xiv. 
 
 having probably come from Houssa, and they alone wear cotton 
 robes to the total exclusion of grass cloth. 
 
 After a pleasant night's rest, the thermometer never rising 
 higher than 69 degrees, we prepared to descend to our escort, 
 who had remained in the village at the foot of the hill. 
 
 The caboceer again honoured us with a specimen of his dancing, 
 and bidding us adieu, after accompanj-ing us for a mile on our 
 way, left us to proceed on our return journey to Ampasim, where 
 we arrived about four o'clock. 
 
 The last day of September was a dies non, for a continuous 
 downpour of tropical rain rendered travelling impossible. By 
 seven o'clock on the morning of October 1st, we were again en 
 voyage, and passed through several villages of the predominant 
 wattled type, the country gradually rising as we journeyed 
 towards the north-west. At three o'clock we halted at the 
 hamlet of Kodongo, after a journey of twenty-two miles. Our 
 accommodation was very limited : the soldiers sleeping on their 
 mats in the open air, covered only by their togas. Snuff appears 
 to be the great failing of the Kodongo people, for I could have 
 bought a supply of food sufficient to last a month for about half- 
 an- ounce. Just before we arrived at the to^Ti, I noticed a range 
 of hills to the eastward, probably the Dassa mountains of 
 Dimcan ; and to the west a lofty peak, but which was unknoT\'n 
 by name to all the people of whom I inquired. 
 
 Leaving Kodongo at seven a.m., in about an hour wo came to 
 a stream thirteen yards wide, and knee-deep in the centre, flowing 
 to the eastward on a rough pebbly bottom. 
 
 From this river the coimtry was a confused jungle for the next 
 five miles, and not a hamlet was to be seen. Far away to the 
 north-west the lofty crests of the Kong mountains merged into 
 the clouds as they receded to the west, while northwards was a 
 magnificent peak where our journey was to end, as Suamattoh 
 was instructed to conduct me so far and no farther. 
 
 "We halted at the \-illage of Bevangeh, built on the summit of a 
 hill, or rather on the northern edge of a sudden dip to the north.
 
 CHAP. XIV. MEETIXG WITH A LION. 325 
 
 This appears to be the northern scarp of one of the lateral ranges 
 of the Mahi group of mountains. 
 
 We did not start from Bevangeh until late in the forenoon of 
 October the 2nd, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in 
 obtaining food for so large a party as ours. The road led 
 through a ravine at the bottom of which a small stream gurgled 
 along its rocky bed, running in a south-easterly direction. 
 
 About three in the afternoon, the caravan came to a dead halt 
 on hearing the loud roar of a lion apparently close on our left. 
 All was consternation — the soldiers in the van urging each 
 other on to accept the challenge, and do battle with the animal, 
 but notwithstanding their boasted valour no one attempted to 
 lead the way. The jabbering and gesticulation was terrific ; 
 and had the lion felt inclined to have a fat negro for supper 
 there was nothing to prevent him, for I verily believe had he. 
 made any attack the valiant soldiers would have turned tail and 
 run away. Joe was abeady making tracks to the rear, carrying 
 my gun with him, and on his being forced back again to his 
 station by my hammock, I could not help smiling at the fear- 
 stricken horror of his ugly visage. He looked as though he had 
 been frost-bitten. Our fears, however, were groundless; for, 
 although we heard the Hon frequently give vent to his awful 
 roar, which was prolonged from side to side of the ravine to a 
 fearful length, we never got a glimpse of his tawny hide. 
 
 "We encamped at a small village called Dorseh, on the banks 
 of the stream, and of course the general topic of conversation was 
 the lion. Each vied with the other in recounting the wonderful 
 exploits they meant to have performed had opportunity been 
 afforded for exhibiting their prowess. 
 
 Crossing the stream about eight o'clock the next morning, we 
 again commenced to ascend the range of hills whose conspicuous 
 feature was the Pahlookoh (two hills), an isolated cluster of peaks, 
 the highest being saddle-shaped. About two in the afternoon we 
 arrived at a large town, called from its situation, Pahlookoh seh, 
 or the foot of Pahlookoh. Concernirg this town, there is told
 
 326 JOURNEY TO THE KONG MOUNTAINS. chai'. xiv. 
 
 tlic following account of the manner in wMcli it fell into the 
 possession of the King of Dahomey. 
 
 " In the reign of King Gezu, the present king's father, war 
 was declared against Danyoli, the King of Pahlookoh, on the 
 plea that he had ill-treated the messengers of the king. Upon 
 this Danyoh sent to Gc-nah-Koh (the Elephant), one of the 
 Eyeo chieftains, asking him to come to his relief, as their 
 common enemy, Dahomey, was about to attack him. 
 
 " Meanwhile Gezu laid siege to the place, and while so en- 
 gaged he received word from De Souza that ' the Elephant ' was 
 coming to fight against him. This was corroborated by the king 
 of Porto Novo, and by thirty-three of the small kings of Mahi, 
 who were at that time on friendly terms with Dahomey. These 
 messengers urged upon Gezu the necessity of an immediate 
 retreat ; but he said that ' he did not know how to go back, but 
 that he must break this people.' 
 
 "After much difficulty, Danyoh was slain, and his brother 
 Joon-toh taken prisoner and sent to Abomey. This was effected 
 before the junction of ' the Elephant ' with Danyoh. 
 
 " Gezu then waited for Ge-nah-Koh in the' valley at 
 the foot of the mountain, and in the first encounter com- 
 pletely routed his forces, and killed ' the Elephant ' before he 
 succeeded in joining the Pahlookohs, who had assembled to 
 witness, as they fondly hoped, the total discomfiture of the 
 Dahoman anny. 
 
 " No sooner were they convinced that the Dahomans wero 
 again victorious, than they threw down their arms and sued for 
 mercy on bended knees. Gezu said, ' As you are brave men, 
 and know how to fight well, you shall belong to my army for 
 ever.' It is said that the present Gaou is one of the generals 
 of the Pahlookohs who fought against G^zu." 
 
 Pahlookoh now contains about eleven hundred inhabitants, 
 who are not in a very prosperous condition, since they are too 
 lazy to make the best of their position. But little flesh is eaten 
 except upo!L certain fetiche days when they have a feast, rival-
 
 CHAP. XIV. DIAMOND FIELDS? 327 
 
 ling the Patagonian orgies after a successful hunt, and like other 
 savages gorge themselves to repletion. 
 
 We left this historic town about eight o'clock the next morn- 
 ing, passing round the base of the mountain, which was one 
 immense thicket of prickly pear and pine- apple, which were 
 tabooed to the natives in consequence of their being declared 
 fetiche. 
 
 Beyond Pahlookoh a comparatively level table-land extends 
 for several miles, running in an easterly and westerly direction, 
 and having a presumed elevation of 1,500 feet above the sea. 
 It is more or less covered with erratic boulders of a hard sandy 
 conglomerate, which lie scattered indiscriminately all over the 
 plain. Here numerous agates, jaspers, tourmalines, and other 
 mineral productions, were frequently met with in the gravelly soil, 
 generally on the western edge of the large boulders. The appear- 
 ance was very similar to that of the diamond diggings in the 
 Trans Yaal, and probably a close inspection would reveal the 
 presence of the precious gem. Specks of gold too were fre- 
 quently observed, but there were no evidences of its being worked. 
 A short wiry grass covered the plain, wherein numerous antelopes, 
 guinea fowl, rabbits, and other small game, fell an easy prey to 
 the hunter's gun. 
 
 As we journeyed along this flat, monotonous district, our 
 people were much annoyed by the myriads of ants, whose trains 
 crossed our path. Thousands, nay millions, of these black 
 creatures were going and returning from marauding expeditions, 
 the " labourers " being prevented from leaving the ranks by a 
 line of " soldiers " who were stationed on either side of the line 
 of route. Any " labourer " attempting to pass the sentries was 
 immediately seized upon by a " soldier " of three times his size, 
 and ignominiously thrust back among his companions. Every 
 now and then some unlucky porter would tread upon one of the 
 columns, and in an instant he would be attacked by the guar- 
 dian "soldiers" who, swarming all over his naked body by 
 hundreds, inflicted summary punishment upon the ofi'endor.
 
 328 JOURNEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. chap. xiv. 
 
 At length wc reached the foot of the range of hills whoso 
 peaks we had seen from the southern edge of the Pahlookoh 
 table-land. The country then presented a very di£Ferent appear- 
 ance from the tame district we had just left. Hugo masses of 
 granite were piled up, and some of them appeared to threaten us 
 with immediate destruction if we ventured too near. Trees were 
 comparatively few, and none of the giants of the forest appeared. 
 The curious chandelier tree {Pandanus candelabrum) was plen- 
 tiful, rising to about thirty feet, and then throwing out forked 
 branches, the extremities of which were terminated by long 
 rigid leaves pointing upwards. Another conspicuous tree was 
 one something like the linden, with but few leaves, while the 
 whole surface was literally ablaze with scarlet blossoms. Ginger 
 grew in profusion, and together with the capsicum, constituted 
 an agreeable seasoning to Joe's made dishes. 
 
 About three in the afternoon a thin film of smoke appearing 
 above the trees, announced our approach to our resting-place for 
 the night. This was Kangro,* a town " broken " by the present 
 king, and kept from falling into oblivion by reason of its being 
 the rendezvous of the Ganunlan company, who assemble there 
 previous to their annual elephant hunt. 
 
 The few inhabitants who came out to see us were of a very 
 low tj^pe, with narrow dolicephaHc skulls, low foreheads, and 
 prominent features. They spoke a different language fi-om the 
 Mahis and exliibited the greatest terror at our approach, imagin- 
 ing most probably that we were the advanced guard of an army. 
 ^Nearly aU abandoned their various pursuits, and hid themselves 
 in the bush. The old women especially were positively hideous, 
 rivalling tlie aged crones of the Gaboon in the repulsive appear- 
 ance of their faces and persons. They are not by any means so 
 cleanly as the Mahis, the debris of every meal being thrown 
 outside the door of the hut, and there left to putrefy unless carried 
 off by the hyaenas. 
 
 Their huts are merely sheds, constructed of the mid ribs of 
 
 * This luust not be confounded with the Koglo or Kenglo of Duncan.
 
 CUAP. XIV. THE KA^S^GRO TRIBUTE. 32D 
 
 palm leaves wattled with tlie smaller branches, and thatched with 
 mats made of the leaflets woven or plaited together something 
 like the Gaboon mjxivo. Plantations of cassava surround the 
 houses, and their only food appears to be a kmd of cankie, boiled 
 in an earthen pot placed on stones over a fire. 
 
 Their dress consisted of a waist-cloth of grass and a few fetiche 
 ornaments, besides which many wore necklaces of beads of Daho- 
 man manufacture. 
 
 A few men carried axes, each one made by inserting an iron 
 chisel in the split end of a stick and binding it in firmly with 
 sinews. The old caboceer was the only Dahoman in the place, 
 and he brought out an empty demijohn, thereby indicating that 
 ho had nothing wherewith to welcome us, and hinting that we 
 could replenish his stock if we chose. The old fellow walked by the 
 aid of a crescent-headed stick, but must have been a powerful man 
 in his prime. He was dressed in blue baft, plentifully besprinkled 
 with dirt, and carried a fine collection of fetiches about him. After 
 a palaver, on my hinting that I would give him a supply of rum, 
 he slyly produced a square bottle of gin, with which the king's 
 health and my own were honoured. He said that he was on the 
 point of sending the tribute of the country to Abomey, and on 
 my requesting him to allow me to see it, he conducted us into an 
 apartment in the rear of the house where it was deposited. It 
 consisted of a few jars of palm oil, bags of cotton, cowries, Guinea 
 corn, and large calabashes of yams. The bearers had just re- 
 ceived their rations, and were going to start early in the morning 
 for Abomey. 
 
 Frequent mishaps necessarily occur, owing to the rugged 
 character of the road ; and as Gelcle will only accept full pay- 
 ment, nearly twice the amount of the tribute is sent up ; and 
 after the losses are made good the remainder is disposed of. 
 
 Leaving Kangro at eight o'clock the next morning, we passed 
 over a fine undulating country well watered by small streams 
 running to the westward, and abounding in game of various 
 kinds. Passing the village of Jakowouleh, we again entered the
 
 330 JOUENEY TO THE KONG MOUNTAINS. ciiAP. xiv. 
 
 mountain district, after recruiting our strcngtli by a hearty 
 brealdast on the banks of a small brook that afforded the most 
 deliciously cool water. 
 
 Travelling was rough in the extreme, the road leading over 
 large blocks of ironstone, rendering a sprained anlde inevitable 
 if we did not take particular care where we planted our feet. 
 Joe as usual was grumbling about the " bush country," as he called 
 every place except Accra. Occasionally we passed through 
 grassy spots where the view was comj)letely cut off by its luxu- 
 riant growth. Numerous Shea butter, umbrella, mahogany and 
 other trees, were scattered at frequent intervals. 
 
 About three we came in sight of the town of Jallaku, built at 
 •the base of a lofty mountain, which had been visible to us ever 
 since leaving our last halting place. This was the frontier town 
 of Dahomey under the reign of Gezu, and the inhabitants enjoy 
 immunity from many of the taxes imj)osed upon other towns by 
 reason of the bravery with which they A\'ithstood an attack upon 
 them by the Nagos in the beginning of the present king's reign. 
 It possessed nothing worth remarking, there being two market- 
 places, one near the entrance to the town, and a smaller one 
 near the caboceer's house in the centre. The " Govern- 
 ment house " was almost as labyrinthine in its arrangements 
 as that of the Avogan's in Whydah, for we passed through 
 six courtyards before entering the one appropriated to our use. 
 "Water being handed about, a small bottle of rum was produced 
 from my stores, and the king's health duly honoured. A very 
 abundant supper was then set before us, of which we partook 
 very heartily, the old chief being highly amused at the process of 
 eating with a fork. 
 
 The next morning we started soon after daylight and jjro- 
 cecded to the north-west round the base of the mountain. This 
 mountain is a huge mass of basalt, the peculiar forms assumed 
 by which give an artificial appearance to it when viewed from a 
 distance. Some of the largest trees I ever saw grew in the 
 fissures of the rock?, rivalling by their immensity the huge
 
 CHAP. XIV. ADVENTURE WITH A HYENA. 331 
 
 denizens of a Brazilian forest. Little patches of cultivated 
 ground were interspersed between the rocks ; maize, yams, and 
 millet being the principal objects of care. 
 
 Our route lay well to the westward, and we were now in the 
 newly-acquired portion of Dahomey. The country was well- 
 wooded, mth occasional openings, in one of which we observed 
 the peculiar spoor of the elephant, and towards evening saw a 
 herd of them quietly nibbling the young shoots of the talma 
 bushes down one of the glades in the forest. The path was a 
 mere trail, and we were under the necessity of relying upon the- 
 knowledge of a young man who was going to Mbogelah, and had 
 availed himself of om* arrival to join our party. 
 
 Our halt for the night was at Dassa, twelve miles "W.N.W. 
 of Jallaku. One of the natives had just brought in a python 
 that he had killed by a poisoned arrow. These reptiles are very 
 numerous in the neighbourhood, and the vertebrae form an article 
 of trade with Abomey, where they are used in the ornamentation 
 of the gourd-shaped rattles. The flesh is eaten, and has much 
 the taste of that of a rabbit with a dash of eel. Leopards are 
 not unfrequently met with in the neighbourhood, but, being 
 fetiche for the king, no one thinks of killing them. 
 
 At three in the morning I heard a great outcry. On inquiring 
 the cause, I found that a hyena had entered a hut and seized an 
 infant sleeping in its mother's arms by the head, but being 
 frightened by the screams of the inmates, had dropped its prey 
 and decamped. The poor little fellow was quite dead ; its 
 skull being crushed in by the teeth of the monster. 
 
 Leaving the next morning we commenced our toilsome 
 journey, and at noon arrived at Vagee, where we unanimously 
 decided to remain for the night. Sentries were posted round the 
 camp, as Suamattoh was not by any means prejudiced in 
 favour of the inhabitants, who were a wild set of people, whose 
 language was difi'ercnt from any we had as yet heard. 
 
 In the morning we again proceeded through a rugged moun- 
 tain country, our course being nearly N.N.W. I v/as much
 
 332 JUURXEY TO THE KONG MOUNTAINS. chap. siv. 
 
 struck ^\itll the beauty of the "Whydah finches (Vidua:), whose 
 plumage was then in its prime, the long tail-feathers of the male 
 Iteing curious appendages to so small a bird. Our encampment 
 was made at Vedoh, nine miles from Vagee, but owing to the 
 villanous nature of the road we did not arrive before four 
 o'clock. 
 
 After a sound night's rest we started before daylight, and by 
 9 o'clock A.M. found ourselves comfortably installed in the wattled 
 residence of the caboceer of Mbogelah, situated on a level piece 
 ■of ground near the foot of the mountain, which was to terminate 
 •our journey. 
 
 This town was similar to those passed duiing the last few days, 
 -and contained nothing worth remarking. It is the frontier town 
 of Dahomey, and the old caboceer had been allowed to retain his 
 position after the annexation of his district to the kingdom. 
 The civil law as administered by him in no way differed from 
 that under which his people had lived prior to the conquest ; but 
 all criminal cases were treated according to the Dahoman code. 
 
 After a day's rest, of which we were all in much need, I 
 started with Beecham, Amoosu, and a few others to ascend the 
 mountain on the side of which Mbogelah is situated. Our road 
 led up the bed of a torrent, dry at that season of the year, but a 
 furious stream when swollen by the rains. After a difficult 
 ascent of about 500 feet> we halted beneath the shade of a cliff, 
 iind prepared to breakfast. Then happened one of the little 
 incidents that are always occui-ring to the traveller, and which 
 tend to make his temper none of the sweetest. On asking for a 
 small quantity of water I found that the man with the skin, 
 dipsas-bittcu mortal that he was, had been helping himself ; and 
 not taking sufficient care in fastening up the leg of the goat skin 
 which served as a spout, the whole of the precious liquid had 
 leaked out. The sun was blazing overhead, and the exertion of 
 walking over a rough road had produced intense thii'st. Luckily 
 Joe had brought a few oranges with him, and I succeeded in 
 cooling my parched throat with these while the water-carrier was
 
 CHAP. XIV. A THIRSTY AQUARIUS. 33? 
 
 despatched to a hut that appeared at a short distance, to procure 
 a supply of the necessary liquid. During his absence we fell to 
 work upon the breakfast, which, did ample justice to the care 
 bestowed upon it by Joe, and while so doing the water-carrier 
 returned with the news that we could have no water except by 
 paying for it. Amoosu was for demanding it in the king's name^ 
 but I preferred to keep on good terms with the people, and 
 offered a head of tobacco for a supply. This payment soon had 
 the desired effect, and in a few moments Aquarius appeared 
 staggering imder the weight of a couple of skins of water. I 
 determined he should carry them as a punishment for his 
 pilfering. With this some tea was prepared, and then we took 
 a siesta, and about three again started. 
 
 We crossed a number of terraces mostly cultivated ; th& 
 crops being chiefly yams, maize, or cassava. The road was very 
 steep, and walking no child's play, and by this time we could 
 distinctly perceive a difference in the temperature from that 
 of the plains we had left in the morning. Just at nightfall we 
 arrived at a small hamlet consisting of only seven houses built on 
 three sides of a square. This was Chararah, the plantation 
 house of the caboceer of Mbogelah. In the middle of the square 
 a large fire was blazing, and round it the twenty-five or thirty 
 inhabitants of the hamlet were busily cooking the evening 
 meal. 
 
 We were soon following their example. I turned in to a hut 
 about ten feet square, and soon fell asleep, though I woke 
 towards morning with my teeth chattering with cold, in spite of 
 a thick rug I had thrown over me. Joe was dreadfully put 
 about because the cold was " biting " him, and the carriers 
 were huddled round the fire, which blazed furiously all night, both 
 as a means of supplying warmth and a protective against any 
 wild beast that might be prowling about on an empty stomach. 
 
 At 2 A.M., while the stars were still twinkling brightly in the 
 clear atmosphere, we were again on the move, as I was anxious 
 to gain the summit before sunrise. Our way led us up a
 
 ■334 JOLTtNEY TO THE KOXG MOUNTAINS. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 precipitous track, liberally strewn with loose stones and larger 
 boulders, against which we were continually tripping. As we 
 approached the summit we gradually left the forest behind, the 
 very apex being covered with a few thorny shrubs. It was still 
 dark, and a fire was quickly got under way, for the thermometer 
 stood at 48° F. A strong wind was blowing from the N.E., and 
 in that bleak spot, the solace of a pipe and cup of hot tea was 
 very cheering. 
 
 Presently a faint grey streak illuminated the eastern horizon, 
 and we were at once on the qui rive to catch the first glimpse of 
 the sun. Broader and brighter grew the streak, sending out 
 offshoots, and at last a thin line of rosy hue was faintly per- 
 ceptible close to the eastern verge. Another, and yet another, 
 followed, and at last Joe called out, " Look, master ! " and there 
 at last was the evidence of the birth of another day. On om* 
 left a lofty peak, gilded with the rays of the sun, as yet 
 invisible to us, shone out against the leaden-coloured sky as if 
 made of burnished copper. Every instant its colour changed, 
 and one by one other peaks appeared as if ht up with spectral 
 fires. 
 
 Streaks of j^ellow and ruby light now darted upwards from the 
 horizon, and a few beams of glorious colour shot up from the 
 spot where the sun would soon appear. The colours of the sky 
 Avere truly gorgeous. Green blending into the clearest azure or 
 deepening into more sombre indigo, was shown up in the boldest 
 contrast by the rosy edgings of the fleecy clouds. We could 
 now begin to see a few of the neighbouring peaks, but all beneath 
 us was still bathed in gloom. Slowly the gilding crept down the 
 sides of the mountains until at length the sunlight flashed out 
 upon the spot where we stood with dazzling splendour. 
 
 The scene was now grand in the extreme, as the sun climbed 
 with rapid strides his steep path in the heavens ; the different 
 pinnacles appearing like islands of fire in the midst of a sea of 
 fog. Some of the more distant peaks had the appearance of 
 molten copper with shadows of exquisite violet or grey.
 
 CHAP. XIV. A MOUNTAIN SUNRISE. 335 
 
 In a slioi-t time the effect of tlie suu's beams began to tell 
 upon the mists which had settled do-svm upon the lowlands during 
 the night. Slowly and im2)erceptibly they crept up the mountain 
 side, rolling like billows of smoke, and only occasionally giving 
 us a peep of the world beneath us. The birds had by this time 
 left their roosting places, and the insect-world in its myriad forms 
 was again on the alert. On came the foggy tide, until we were 
 enveloped in its moisture-laden embrace, and at Joe's suggestion 
 breakfast was put in requisition. Poor fellow, he evidently had 
 no taste for Alpine scenery, for to use his expression " too much 
 cold live to catch him for that country." 
 
 About nine o'clock, after nearly two hours of isolation from 
 everything except the ground upon which we stood, the mists 
 gradually floated off and disappeared. A bcautifal panorama 
 was then spread around us. To the east, immediately before us, 
 was a precipice some three hundi'ed yards deep, at whose foot 
 a stream was murmuring along. Beyond rose a colossal mountain, 
 looking quite close at hand in the deceptive atmosphere. 
 
 The little stream, whose birth-place was the mountain upon which 
 we stood, wound round its base, looking like a silver thread as it 
 now appeared, and then was hidden from our view by an inter- 
 vening hill. Here and there a few black circling dots, con- 
 spicuous against the clear blue sky, pointed out a number of 
 vultures, wheeling around at a giddy height, eager to discover a 
 dead animal on which to feast themselves. The thin blue smoke 
 from Chararah stole slowly upwards, indicating that our caboceer's 
 plantation men were about to prepare their morning meal of boiled 
 yams or maize cobs. Beyond these rose peak after peak as far as 
 the eye could reach, until clouds and hills became merged into a 
 shadowy boundary to the landscape. 
 
 • Southwards a wide expanse lay spread out before us. The smoke 
 of the wood fires indicated the bro-^Ti wattled huts of a few vil- 
 lages, surrounded by plantations, the emerald green of the young 
 maize showing bright against the dull olive of the forest. A narrow 
 patch of grassy hue, blotched with black spots, showed us the
 
 336 JOUEXEY TO THE KONG MOUXTAIXS. chap. xiv. 
 
 marshy district of Nkoveli, and beyond these the peaks of 
 Zoglogbo, andlother high pinnacles of the Mahi ranges, were 
 darkly outHned against the sky. 
 
 Westwards a panorama of majestic beauty lay disclosed to our 
 view. Far as the eye could reach, mountain towered upon 
 mountain and valley merged into valley, presenting every aspect 
 of Alpine scenery, from the isolated crater to the fortress-like 
 appearance of some of the trappean hills. Over these the ever- 
 moving fog still hovered, now appearing as if endeavouring to 
 hide some distant peak fi'om our view, and again enveloping a 
 whole group in a filmy covering as if with a bridal veil. What 
 most attracted the attention was a valley to the south-west, which 
 bore all the appearance of one of the moraines of the Alps in 
 the lines of stones left in curious positions along its sides, and in 
 the ice scratched pebbles strewn in every direction, specimens of 
 which were brought to me by Amoosu. 
 
 To the north the country appeared less hilly, and I was told 
 that no hills " lived " for a considerable distance. Numerous 
 Httlc rills meandered through the valleys, perhaps mingling their 
 waters with those of the Niger after a coui-se through the 
 extensive plain beneath us. No villages greeted the eye in this 
 direction. Far as we could see, a series of rounded imdidations 
 met the view, rolling in parallel lines of hill and vaUey as if we 
 stood upon the shore of some immense sea whose billows had 
 become suddenly soHdified. 
 
 The silence and solitude were overwhelming. Not a sound fell 
 upon the strained ear but was increased in its intensity, even the 
 hum of the tiny insect being augmented until it seemed almost out 
 of place in that vast immensity of silence ; and the soul, becoming 
 conscious of its own inferiority and puny littleness when its 
 mightiest efforts are compared with the handiwork of the Deity • 
 seemed to be filled with wonder, reverence, and awe. 
 
 The range appeared to increase in altitude westward, splitting 
 up into a number of forks which strike off towards the coast ; 
 the highest peaks being well-known landmarks for shipping, and
 
 (HAP. XIV. EETURX TO ABOMEY, 337 
 
 ailed the Cook's Loaf, Mumquady, the Abbey Dome, and other 
 characteristic names. 
 
 After staying some hours on this, the summit of one of the 
 loftiest of the Kong mountains, we reluctantly began the descent, 
 which we accomplished without any mishap, my only regret 
 being the inability of taking any observations on account of my 
 not possessing the necessary instruments. One day I hope to re- 
 ^^sit the same scenes — prepared to do more than make a flying 
 survey of this interesting country, which had never been visited 
 by white men, except by Duncan in 1846. 
 
 On arrival at Chararah we found all ready for starting, and 
 without stopping we went on to Mbogelah, which we entered 
 at four o'clock, and were entertained in a most sumptuous 
 manner by the hospitable caboceer. 
 
 As we had already somewhat exceeded the time allowed for us 
 to reach Mbogelah we made a series of forced marches, until we 
 reached Evyango, situated on the north side of the marsh district 
 near Abomey. 
 
 Here we were delayed, in consequence of the caboceer's 
 insisting upon giving me a reception, and we were inflicted with 
 about four hom-s of verj^ poor dancing, gun firing, and music, so 
 that- a whole day was lost, and we did not start from the place 
 until the eighteenth of October. After a night in a misei'able 
 hovel, at a village about ten miles from Abomey, we arrived there 
 on the twentieth, to Suamattoh's delight, who no sooner brought 
 us to the uhon-nukon than ho sent a messenger to inform the king 
 of our arrival, and after an hour's patient waitiug Dahkro came 
 out with a message from the king to say that he would see nic in 
 the morning, and that the Custom was ready to commence. The 
 caboceer's responsibility being now over, Vifen cVenfer was imme- 
 diately fired by his soldiers and himself, after which he conducted 
 us to our quarters, and then, instead of going quietly home, like 
 a sensible fellow, spent the night in sacrificing to his fetiche for 
 bringing his journey to a successful issue.
 
 \ 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. ' 
 
 Tisit to the king— Despatch of messengers to the late king — Procession of 
 
 captains and Amazons. 
 The First Section of the Attoh Custom. — The Attoh platform — Victim sheds — 
 
 Creation of a new Jotosi company — Dance of Giindeme's Amazons. 
 The Second Section of the Attoh Custom. — Under the doctors' hands— Dance of 
 
 the royal family. 
 The Third Section of the Attoh Ctistom. — Arrival of Moslems from the interior 
 
 to purchase slaves — Dance of drummers — Creation of a new Gaou. 
 The Fourth Section of the Attoh Custom. — Parade of men and Amazons — Cowrie 
 
 fighting — Procession of fetiche priests — Execution of a captive for 
 
 Ningan — The Tokpon — Procession of king's wealth. 
 
 By seven o'clock the next morning we were waiting outside 
 the palace gate, expecting to be summoned to the presence. 
 There had been heavy rain during the night, and the morning 
 was refreshingly cool. I could not help being amused at the 
 grotesque figures cut by the vultures as they expanded their 
 wings to allow them to dry in the sun. The Dahomans say that 
 when it rains the Akrasu determine to build houses for them- 
 selves, but when the sun again appears they hold out their wings 
 and say to each other, that the open air is quite good enough for 
 them. 
 
 After half an hour's delay, the dahkro summoned us to the 
 inside. His Majesty was reclining under the shed where weShad 
 our first audience. He asked me whether I was satisfied with 
 my journey, and if I had been well treated by the people. After 
 an hour's audience, he wound up by saying that the Platfonn 
 Custom was about to commence, and that to-morrow he would
 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 X 
 E-. 
 
 CCi 
 
 o
 
 CHAP. XV. MESSENGERS TO THE LATE KING. 339 
 
 open the new gate and inaugurate the Custom. In the afternoon 
 I was summoned to the market-place to see the despatch of 
 several messengers to inform the deceased monarchs of the com- 
 mencement of the Platform Custom. Although the sight was 
 not by any means an agreeable one, yet as I had been told many 
 marvellous tales about the executions, I determined to see for 
 myself what were the real facts of the case. 
 
 We proceeded to the Uhunglo market, and as we passed the 
 Nesu shed overtook a procession of fetiche people, headed by a 
 band, who were walking round the market at a funeral pace. 
 Preceded by a herald, with arms bound and a gag in their mouths, 
 were two Nago captives, who were pushed along by a couple of 
 janitors behind them. This mournful cortege passed three times 
 round the market, and then halted near the place where the 
 pa\alion for Addokpon formerly stood. A number of hunchbacked 
 poKccmen kept the ground, surrounding a heap of beaten swish 
 in the shape of a truncated cone. The herald ascended this 
 rostrum, and called the attention of the populace by a ting- 
 tanging upon his gong-gong, and loud cries of Ah go, 
 
 delivered in a mournful prolonged minor key. The ISTago victims 
 were placed in a kneeling position before the paniganhuntoh and 
 their guards squatted behind them. A bottle of rum, a head of 
 cowries, and a pellet of cankie were placed before each, and one 
 of the court jesters sat grinning in the opposite corner, carrying 
 on his buffoonery in the very presence of death itself. 
 
 The king's strong names were then called out, the recital 
 occup)ing nearly an hour. The victims were then placed with 
 their heads bowed to the earth, while the message was delivered. 
 The purport of it was as follows : — " Gclele sends his compli- 
 ments to his father, and declares that he would do all things as 
 he had wished his son to do. He has made one Custom for him 
 and now makes another, so that G^zu shall know that his son 
 Gelele docs not forget him." With a long ting-tang on the 
 gong-gong the message was concluded, and preparations for the 
 fearful consummation commenced. The rum bottle was opened, 
 
 z 2
 
 340 THE ATTOH CUSTOII. chap. xv. 
 
 part poui'ed out ou tlie ground, and the remainder on the heads 
 of the victims. The bunches of co^vries were then laid on 
 their heads for an instant, and afterwards j)laced before them. 
 The cankie was placed iu the waist cloths of the poor wretches, 
 and then the executioner made his appearance. The regular 
 officer was unable to attend in consequence of illness, and his son 
 took his place, and much to my surprise it proved to be Bukau. He 
 was armed -^-ith a long fish-slice-shaped knife, and carried a 
 bunch of horse tails round his neck. 
 
 One of the victims was then brought to the front, and his head 
 being bent forward, Bukau with one well-aimed stroke severed 
 it from the body, which then toj)pled forwards, and the life-blood 
 pom-ed out over the ground. The head was lifted up by Bu- 
 kau and handed to the herald, who placed it in a basket, while 
 the body was dragged off by the multitude and thrown into the 
 ditch near the Abomey gate ; children and adults — of both sexes 
 — insulting the corpse in every possible manner with sticks, stones, 
 and filth. 
 
 The other victim, whose feelings can be better imagined than 
 described at seeing the execution of his comrade, was then simi- 
 larly despatched, and the heads were carried off to the Coo- 
 massis palace, where they were stuck in little heaps before the 
 new gate. 
 
 We then proceeded to the western side of the palace, where 
 the Aden ej an was busily engaged in felling a large tree, which 
 grew near the gate, A number of new palaver sheds had been 
 erected opposite the gate, and a tall flag-stafi', with a white 
 standard flpng, was planted in the centre of the square. 
 
 A procession of the captains was then formed, and marched 
 tlu'ec times round the square, the soldiers firing guns, tliro-\ving 
 thorn up iu the air, and performing various dances. All wore 
 their war dresses and dismal paraphernalia of cowries, bloody 
 tunics, and dark sienna umbrellas. One company had as a dis- 
 tinctive feature in their uniform a pair of white cotton di'awers 
 with the right leg cut short off at the thigh.
 
 CHAP. XV. COMMEXCEMEXT OF THE ATTOH CUSTOM. 341 
 
 The king then came out of the gate, escorted as far as the Pwc 
 shed by the Amazons, who there delivered him over to the male 
 soldiers. He was dressed in grey and blue fetiche costume, and 
 had two black streaks of gunpowder on each check. He rode in 
 the glass chariot made by his " goldsmith," a cumbrous affair, 
 like a square photographic studio on wheels. I could not con- 
 gratulate him upon his pleasant journey, for the carriage was 
 fearfully jolted over the rough surface of the ground as it was 
 thrice dragged round the square, his Majesty bowing to us as he 
 passed our chairs. He then returned to the Pwe shed, and 
 entered a green hammock, emblazoned with yellow lions. In 
 this he made four circum ambulations, amidst the deafening up- 
 roar of his subjects. He must have been dreadfully jolted about;, 
 but then most people will put up with considerable inconveniences- 
 for the sake of display. 
 
 A similar procession of the Amazons then perambulated the- 
 square after it had been railed off by the Tononun and his assist- 
 ants. They fired, danced and whooped quite as frantically as. 
 the men, some of the fat officeresses cutting a ludicrous figure as. 
 they waddled along. 
 
 A Diihkro then came to the gate and called Amoosu, who on 
 returning to us brought a decanter of rum and permission to 
 retire, with a request to come early in the morning to see the 
 platform that was to be erected during the night under the 
 superintendence of the Adonejan. 
 
 BONUGAN KAYON GBE.— THE CAPTAINS WILL Di^CE TO-DAY. 
 
 During the night we heard a fearful howling and most un- 
 earthly laughter among the hyaenas, who were feasting upon the 
 bodies of the poor wretches who were killed yesterday. 
 
 About nine o'clock T went to the newly-made uhon-nukon 
 before the western gate of the Coomassie palace. On arrival 
 there I was surprised at the alteration that had taken place 
 during the few hours which had elapsed since I left the place yester-
 
 342 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. CHAP. XV. 
 
 day. The tree was felled and the roots torn up, and the whole 
 of the square nicely smoothed with earth ; not a sign of the place 
 recently occupied hy the tree being left. 
 
 To the proper left of the Pwe shed, at a distance of about 
 twenty yards, the celebrated Attoh was erected. A fence of stout 
 l^oles supported a mat screen, enclosing a space of about 100 feet 
 by 30, to the south of which the Attoh was erected. A number of 
 posts had been di'iven into the earth, theii' tops being twelve feet 
 from the level of the ground. Across these rafters of Palmyra 
 wood were lashed, and on these again a flooring was laid similar 
 to that in the pa^alion in the Coomassie palace. The area of the 
 flooring was about ninety feet by forty. To the rear a shed was 
 erected upon the platform, extending the whole length, but only 
 twenty feet broad. Within this were twenty-six victims gagged 
 and bound a la mode, and sitting upon basket-work frames similar 
 to those used for the transport of merchandise upon the heads of 
 porters. The fi'ont and sides of the platform were enclosed by a 
 parapet four feet high. Admission to the Attoh was efi'ected by 
 a rude ladder near the northern end, and a covering of wliite 
 calico, similar in shape to those in use in England to protect 
 visitors to a ball from the weather between the carriages and the 
 •entrance, extended from the top to the bottom. The sides of the 
 platform and the roof of the victim shed were covered with 
 Avliitc calico. The parapet was ornamented with guns, kpo and 
 empty powder kegs fastened perpendicularly against the side, and 
 a row of fourteen powder kegs was fixed to the roof of the victim 
 shed, while a similar decoration of four graced the calico verandah 
 to the ladder. The king's royal umbrella was fixed at the south- 
 western angle of the platform, and those of the Amazons appeared 
 above the parapet at the opposite extremity. Finally a large 
 table-cloth flag waved from a flagstaff at the north-west corner. 
 This was the Attoh for Gelele. 
 
 To the north of the Pwe shed a similar platform was erected, 
 but in this case the victim shed extended round three sides of the 
 platform, lea^ang the front only open to the square, and the ladder
 
 CHAP. XV. THE VICTIM PLATFORMS. 343 
 
 was at the extreme N.AV. corner. Sixty-two victims were here 
 exhibited; thirty-two for the bush king Addokpon and thirty 
 for the Dahoman people, thus making a total of eighty-eight 
 human beings as offerings to the manes of Gezu. There were 
 three table-cloth flags along the front of this Attoh, and the 
 ornaments of guns, sticks, and powder-kegs were similar to those 
 ■of the other platform. 
 
 Before the gate a small shed was erected containing a number 
 of Bo-fetiche idols and the accompanying Clotho spinning the 
 magic thread. The usual Josusu was erected before the gate, and 
 from the centre a mat was hung painted with a St. Andrew's cross 
 of black upon a red ground, and a grinning skull fixed in the 
 centre. The Sohwe, the Boso altars, and the head heaps of swish 
 were placed on either side, and over the wall of the palace we 
 xjould see a long white flag and the powder-keg ornaments to the 
 Amazons' Attoh. 
 
 The day's ceremonials commenced by the king's ascending his 
 Attoh, and our chairs were soon after brought near the plat- 
 form where our umbrella had been placed. A band of thirty- 
 six young men were then paraded before the king, and after a 
 copious kodide the Ningan called out the name of each, in his 
 harsh voice. MeanwhOe a short ladder was placed against the 
 side of the platform beneath the royal umbrella, and the Adone- 
 jan ascending, received a number of horse-tails for distribution 
 to the new company of dancers, who were to be created from the 
 thirty-six candidates before us. Of these thirty-two were chosen 
 as fit and proper persons to act as Jotosi, and received the horse- 
 tail whisps ; while the remaining four were made privates in the 
 Mnan, or " foolhardy corps." A Kpogi was then handed to each 
 of the dancers, who thereupon commenced a corybantic display 
 which lasted upwards of an hour ; the principal figure being 
 a bending of the knees until they nearly touched the ground, and 
 then springing upright with a single effort. The war captains 
 then advanced and formed a line before the platform, and went 
 through a similar performance, the last figure in the row being a
 
 3ii THE ATTOH CUSTOM. chap. xv. 
 
 hunch-backed warrior whose efforts to surpass the leaps of his 
 more rectilinear companions caused the crowd to hurst forth in 
 shrieks of laughter. Two hours of this " pleasure " brought the 
 captain's dance to a conclusion, and the Tononun appeared and 
 cleared off the rabble by the tinkle of his bell, while some of his 
 inferiors laid down the magic rods. 
 
 A company of Amazons belonging to Gundeme, the female 
 Ningan, then came in and danced for nearly two hours. They 
 were all splendidly dressed in silks, velvets, and chintzes, and 
 nearly all had their necks, shoulders, and other parts of their 
 persons ornamentally daubed mth a pale green pomade. At the 
 conclusion of the ballet the kmg descended from the platform 
 and danced with two of the leaders among Gundeme's corps. 
 Guns were fired and strong names shouted out during the royal 
 dance, and at its conclusion Gelele came uj) to us and made 
 sundry complimentary speeches, finishing off with a request that 
 I would dance with him. 
 
 Taking liis hand amidst the acclamations of the assembly, 
 Gelele and I wont through our united performance, and when I 
 signified to the king that I had had enough of it, he passed me 
 with five heads of cowries and a bottle of rum. On returning 
 home I found a banquet spread out for me, the gift of Hahansu, 
 not the least acceptable portion of it being some very passable 
 rolls, made by the prince's cook, who had been instructed in the 
 mysteries of his craft in the French factory at Whydah. 
 
 gelel:^ akhosu kayan gbe. — gelele and the princes 
 will dance to-day. 
 
 The next morning I was very unwell with fever, and the 
 complimentary stick-bearers conveyed the news of my illness to 
 the king. In about an hour the Ammasinkpele, or druggist to 
 his Majesty, accompanied by thirteen Ammablutoh, or doctors, 
 paid me a visit. They examined my tongue, felt my head, hands, 
 feet, and back, and then retired to Joe's kitchen, where they 
 mixed an aperient draught for me. After that one of the Eukono
 
 CKAP. XV. NATIVE DOCTORS. 345 
 
 priests arrived, who proceeded to cast lots and consult Afa^' by 
 means of his magic nuts, and at last discovered that ten fowls 
 must be sacrificed for my benefit. The required offerings were 
 supplied by the king's druggist, and the sacrifice duly made y 
 after which the " faculty " took their departure, much to my 
 relief. 
 
 In the afternoon I felt much better, and went to the western 
 uhon-nukon about three o'clock. The verandah of umbrellas 
 round the Pwe shed announced that royalty had already arrived. 
 On being presented to the king according to custom, he sent two 
 of his doctors to stay near me to see that I did notliiug that 
 would prevent the due operation of the fetiche they had made for 
 my recovery. 
 
 The space before the king's seat was railed off by the usual 
 tie-tie fence, and numerous white calico flags were waving from 
 flagstaffs erected all over the square. Gelele and fourteen of 
 the royal princes were dancing to the music of a band squatted 
 under a tent umbrella on the left. 
 
 All were stripped to their drawers, which were made of silk or 
 velvet, and tastefully embroidered. Gelele, as usual, wore sandals, 
 the others being barefooted. He also wore a peaked topped cap 
 of black velvet, with scarlet binding, the pattern being evidently 
 taken from a Scotch bonnet. The head dresses of the other 
 members of the royal family were various, some wearing regi- 
 mental caps, emblazoned with a fanciful device, while others were 
 content with a broad fillet such as is worn by street jugglers and 
 mountebanks. The ballet lasted two hours, and consisted of 
 several figures ; the king giving the cue to the band as to the 
 proper measure for each, by singing the words of a song to the 
 principal musician. Songs were sung during the dance, and a 
 considerable quantity of powder wasted in firing salutes. 
 
 During the performance groups of dancers who had been 
 infected with the sight of the royal ballet, were wildly throwing 
 
 * See page 474.
 
 346 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. CHAP. XV. 
 
 their limbs about on all sides of the square, yelling and screaming 
 at the top of their voices until the uproar was deafening. 
 
 AVTien this mania was expended, Gelele retired, and the 
 perspiring princes squatted down in a line and sang the following 
 
 .song : — 
 
 " Gelele has made a Platform Custom for Gezu, 
 We •will therefore dance for him to-day." 
 
 The newly-organised band of Hunto then gave us a sample of 
 their agility, and we were not at all displeased when we received 
 ■our conge in the form of a bottle of rum. 
 
 Since I had returned from the Kong mountains I had seen 
 nothing of the governor, and was sorry to learn that he was 
 unwell. I paid him a visit in the evening, and he requested me 
 to use my influence with the king to allow him to return to 
 Whydah. I promised to do so, but reminded him of the pro- 
 crastinating nature of the king as exemplified in myself, who 
 had been repeatedly told that I should be allowed to leave in 
 •" three days." 
 
 HUNTO KAYON GBE.— THE DKUMMERS WILL DANCE TO-DAY. 
 
 On arriving at the square about two o'clock in the afternoon 
 of to-day, I was surprised to see a considerable increase in the 
 number of Moslem spectators to the Custom. I was afterwards 
 told that a large party of Houssa, and other northern people, had 
 arrived on a visit to the kingdom to dispose of their wares, and 
 also to buy slaves. From repeated inquiries I ascertained that 
 these traders succeeded in buying ninety-four of the Nago 
 captives from the king, the price he received being on the 
 average about sixty dollars (£12) per man. I have every reason 
 to believe that the slaves were well-treated by their new masters, 
 and I was told that they have fi-equcnt opportunities of pur- 
 chasing their freedom, and that they often amassed a comfort- 
 able fortune in their new homes. 
 
 The whole of the afternoon was taken up by the Terpsichorean
 
 CHAP. XV. CREATION OF A NEW GAOU. 347 
 
 performances of several corps of drummers, who vied with, each 
 other in the grotesque and extravagant attitudes into which they 
 threw themselves. 
 
 About four o'clock a loud dinning of gong- gongs and cries of 
 Ahgo ndahoh hushed the comments of the assembly to silence. 
 The Gaou, the lieutenant of Ningan, was an aged and decrepid 
 servant of the government, and totally incapable of performing 
 the irksome duties that devolved upon his position. Gelele 
 called this ancient warrior to the front, and after a long speech 
 thanking him for his long and faithful services, formally gave 
 him permission to retire on his laurels. The old soldier performed 
 ii feeble ko-didi, and leaning heavily on his staff left the 
 presence. 
 
 The election of a new Gaou was then proceeded with. The 
 Ningan proposed an old soldier from the Bru company as a 
 proper person to entrust with the responsibilities of so high an 
 office. " This man," said he, '' has fought bravely under Gezu, 
 and has assisted to break many towns. Look at his left arm," 
 which showed signs of a fearful wound : " there you see evidence 
 that he is not afraid to face the foe. It is good to have expe- 
 rienced warriors to command the raw recruits, or they will not 
 know how to fight. The example of this man will be fire in 
 the hearts of the soldiers who first go to war for Gelele." 
 This concluded the speech of Ningan, v/ho with his protege then 
 copiously besprinkled themselves with dirt. 
 
 A young lad, not more than fifteen, then jumped up and pro- 
 posed himseK as the new Gaou. "What is the use," he argued, 
 ^' of nominating an old man to the Gaouship ? he will soon be 
 too feeble to fight, and then another election will have to be 
 made." 
 
 The Meu next stepped forward and proposed a soldier who 
 had only just recovered from a severe wound received in the 
 capture of one of the Nago towns last year. " This man," said 
 the Meu, " combines the good qualities of the other two candi- 
 dates. He has had plenty of hard fighting to learn experience
 
 348 TUE ATTOn CUSTOM. CUAP. xv. 
 
 as a soldier, and his severe wound is a guarantee of his bravery. 
 He also is as yet a young man, and therefore Gelele will not he 
 put to the trouble of electing another Gaou in a few years. 
 Besides this, it is good that a brave soldier should be rewarded 
 for fighting the battles of his king." A munnur of applause 
 followed the conclusion of the Meu's speech, after which the 
 three candidates gave a very boastful account of the deeds of 
 daring they would perform if they were elected to the vacant 
 Gaouship. The Amazons frequently taunted the candidates 
 during their bombastic speeches ; telHng them that they would 
 have to come to them before they could leam the proper way to 
 fight, and in other ways exhibiting the rivalry that existed 
 between the sexes. The female Gaou, the KLetungan, said that 
 none of the candidates were worthy of the dignity of the Gaou- 
 ship, because they had not taken Abeokeuta for the king as they 
 had promised. 
 
 Gelele then discussed the merits of the cases seriatim. 
 
 With regard to Mngan's man, he said that after a man had 
 so bravely fought for his king, he ought not to have much work, 
 but should rest from his hard labours during the war. 
 
 As for the youth, though it was good not to elect an old man 
 to the Gaouship, nevertheless the chosen officer must have given 
 proof by his bravery that he was fit to hold the responsible post 
 of Gaou. 
 
 Meu's candidate was a well-known brave man, and had not 
 yet been rewarded for bringing in four heads to the king. He 
 therefore should confer the vacant post upon him. 
 
 Loud cheers, gun filing, and strong names followed this speech, 
 amidst a copious dust bath of the personages mentioned in it. 
 
 The investiture of the new Gaou was then proceeded with. 
 
 The Ningan advanced to the front, and called the successful 
 candidate by his new title, Gaou ! That officer answered 
 according to custom, Jf^ae ! " Yes, I am here," and hurried to 
 the Ningan. A new stool, umbrella, and caboceer beads were 
 then brought from the. king by the dahkros, and delivered to
 
 CHAP. XV. A TRANSFER OF WIVES. 349 
 
 the Ningan, wlio placed the latter upon tlie Gaou, while the 
 umbrella and stool were displayed before the assembly. 
 
 According to custom some of the wives, slaves, and official 
 household property of the old Gaou were then paraded before 
 the court, and formally handed over to the possession of the new 
 Gaou. Some of the old wives did not appear to relish the 
 change of husbands ; but as it is the universal custom they could 
 not complain of being taken by surprise. The Gaou then 
 copiously besprinkled himself with sand, and retired, fol- 
 lowed by his newly- acquired propertj^ animate and inanimate, 
 and on arrival at the umbrella set up for him performed a 
 vigorous war-dance. The old Gaou then was called and received 
 a present of nine slaves, and the use of one of the royal farm- 
 houses until he died. His private property was transferred to 
 the new abode together with the balance of his establishment, 
 and the aged warrior left the scene. 
 
 Gelele then gave a lengthy account of the exploits of the 
 retiring officer, and ended by expressing his wish that the newly- 
 appointed Gaou would "go and do likewise." The new Gaou, 
 a fine tall fellow, then daubed himself with swish, and swore to 
 take Abeokeuta, or any other place, single-handed. The arrival 
 of our dahkro, with the pass rum, soon after announced the ter- 
 mination of the day's proceedings. 
 
 MEN-SAN^ ATTOH GBB GELELE.— THE VICTIMS WILL BE THROWN 
 FROM THE ATTOH TO-DAY FOR GELELE. 
 
 In the middle of the night a herald went round the town with 
 a corps beating the death-drum, and announcing that on the 
 next day the victims would be thrown from the platform. 
 
 "We had taken up our positions by eight o'clock the following 
 morning ; a large crowd having already assembled, the umbrellas 
 of the chiefs forming a line of shade along the whole of the 
 western side of the square. Soon after our arrival a body of 
 about seven hundred men assembled near the Pwe shed, and in
 
 350 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. chap. xv. 
 
 a short time the firing of muskets, and the shouting out of the 
 king's strong names announced the approach of the king. He 
 moimted his green velvet hammock, and the seven hundred 
 warriors commenced to perambulate the square, carrying the 
 king in their midst, amidst their tumultuous firing of muskets, 
 shouting, and wild dancing. 
 
 After the usual three marches round, the king was delivered 
 over to the tender mercies of the Amazons, and a similar pro- 
 cession on the women's side then danced round the uhon-nukon. 
 When they had concluded their parade, they mounted the staii's 
 leading to the king's platform, Gelele having dismounted from 
 his hammock and preceded them, the way being pointed out to 
 him by the royal officers, who are the John the Baptists for the 
 king. 
 
 Meanwhile a thick hedge of prickly pear, acacia, and other 
 uncomfortable shrubs had been planted round the platform at a 
 distance of about ten feet from its base. The soldiers who had 
 perambulated the square now made their appearance, divested of 
 every stitch of their finery, wearing nothing but drawers of the 
 coarsest grass-cloth, e\ddently prepared to "fight for cowries." 
 The king then made a short speech, exhorting the people to 
 remember his liberality when they came to fight in reality for 
 him at Abeokeuta. A few guns were then handed down from 
 the platform by Adonejan, and given to the soldiers named by 
 the king, the lucky recipients being straightway mounted on the 
 shoulders of their comrades, and carried nolens volens round the 
 palace. 
 
 A few pieces of cloth, horns of powder of the coarsest descrip- 
 tion, and bullets of every possible shape, except spherical, were 
 then distributed, when Adonejan, descending the ladder and 
 proceeding to his umbrella, announced that the " fight " was 
 about to commence in earnest. Cowries were then thrown to 
 the excited throng by the king, assisted occasionally by some of 
 the Amazons. Small pieces of caUcoes, chintzes, etc., just large 
 enough to make a loin-cloth, were then thrown, the struggle over
 
 CHAP. XV. DECAPITATION OF A MESSENGER. 351 
 
 one of these being furious in the extreme, and when at last it 
 did come into the possession of any one it was dirtied and torn 
 to such an extent as to be almost worthless. Nevertheless it was 
 unwound and displayed by the lucky fighter, who, mounted on 
 the shoulders of one of his companions, was often carried about 
 for hours after. 
 
 This Olympian struggle was continued for about an hour,. 
 when Ningan was sent for, and, mounting the ladder, called out 
 '^Aiah." The gong-gong heralds took up the cue, and in 
 a few moments the fighting throng was dispersed, and silence 
 reigned. 
 
 Presently a solemn procession of fetiche priests and priestesses, 
 headed by the Agasunno, clad in sombre grey robes, and pre- 
 ceded by several Bo fetiche images and ironmongery, defiled in 
 from the south-western corner of the square. In the middle was 
 a native of Katu, gagged and bound to one of the baskets in 
 common use by porters, and behind him lashed to similar baskets 
 were an alligator, a cat, and a hawk. These were borne on 
 the heads of some of the inferior priests, and a band of horns 
 and drums played a kind of knell in staccato time, something 
 after the fashion of a bell tolling — a few quick notes, and then a 
 pause. This sad procession slowly paraded three times round 
 the market, and were followed by a second band playing on the 
 jaw arums, and the Nunupweto with its suggestive wreath of 
 skulls. Finally, the standards of human crania brought up the 
 rear. 
 
 At the end of the parade they formed before the platform, and 
 cowries, cloth, powder and a gun, were dashed to the victim, 
 who, together with the three animals, was then placed upon the 
 heads of some of the Amazons and carried on to the platform. 
 Ningan then cried out " Aiah," and ascended the ladder, where 
 he was within reach of the royal ear. The man, the alligator, 
 the cat, and the hawk, were then brought to the edge of the 
 platform parapet, and, the king prompting Ningan, that officer 
 made the following speech : — " Hear all the peoples of the earth
 
 352 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. chap. xv. 
 
 what the lion hath spoken. He has made a So- Sin Custom for 
 his father, and shall he not make an Attoh if he pleases. Happy 
 are the sires of those who are able to sacrifice to the memory of 
 their fathers. You see the man, the alligator, the cat, and the 
 hawk ; these are about to depart to the next world to acquaint all 
 the inhabitants of the great respect Gelele has for his fathers. 
 The man will go to the dead men, the alligator to the fish, the 
 cat to the animals, and the hawk to all the birds, to tell them of 
 the great things done by Gelele. Hear and tremble when Gelele, 
 the lion king, speaks." 
 
 The basket with the unfortunate man upon it was then toppled 
 over the edge of the platform, the poor wretch falling on the 
 hard earth at the foot with a force that, let us hope, stunned 
 him. The basket was then upended, and the executioner for 
 the nonce commenced his horrid work. 
 
 The knife was light, short, and without edge, and after three 
 chops at the neck of the victim without separating the vertebra?, 
 he put the bloody weapon between his .teeth and borrowed another 
 heavier knife from a bystander, and with it completed his bar- 
 barous work. Sickening as was the spectacle, I was not able to 
 discover the least sign of pity, horror, or disgust on the faces of 
 any of the throng; the monarch alone turning his head away 
 from the fearful sight. The deed being done, the body was cut 
 from the basket, upon which the head was placed and carried 
 round the market while the yet warm body was dragged off 
 to the Aceldama, near Abomey, there to be devoured by hyenas. 
 The alligator, the cat, and the hawk were then similarly 
 despatched, the alligator giving some trouble on account of the 
 toughness of his scaly epidermis. A few cowries were then 
 thrown upon the blood-stained earth, and we then departed to 
 partake of breakfast, which was not relished any the more after 
 so appetising a sight. 
 
 By noon we were again at the square, and found the courtyard 
 was to be the scene of the succeeding pageants. After being 
 duly announced we entered the palace ; the head of the victim of
 
 THE TOKPOX. 
 
 353 
 
 morning being stuck in the swish heap at the entrance, Tvith a 
 sentry over it to keep off the flies. 
 
 The courtyard was similar to the one at the Akwaji gate, and 
 the umbrellas of the chiefs formed a verandah round the southern 
 and western sides of it. On the eastern side, opposite the gate, 
 was the celebrated Tokpon, one of the " Lions " of the Custom. 
 
 This consisted of a huge tent, shaped something like an 
 English umbrella, with a high conical roof. It was composed 
 
 THE TOKPON. 
 
 of twenty pieces of figured damask, crimson and yellow being the 
 principal colours. These formed a kind of valance to the centre- 
 piece, which was also formed of silk. The central portion was 
 supported by a tall pole, while strong posts upheld the outer 
 edge. The valance had its lower sides deeply scolloped and 
 stretched out by strong iron rods, about five feet long, planted in 
 the earth, and supported by stays of grass rope. On the top was 
 a fetiche figure, about six feet high, representing a woman 
 
 A A
 
 354 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. chap. xv. 
 
 carrying a powder keg. Under the cool shade of this gorgeous 
 pavilion, a sofa covered with several native-made cloths and the 
 familiar brass-legged table were placed ; while the front of it was 
 screened by three or four splendid umbrellas stuck in the ground 
 secundum artem. Two or three white Bo fetiche flags were 
 erected at intervals, and a mat screen shrouded the entrance to 
 the Amazonian quarters behind the Tokpon on the northern side 
 of the square. 
 
 This Tokpon was, I believe, the invention of Gelele, and a 
 substitute for the worn-out affair mentioned by Burton. An 
 altar of the barber's-pole sticks, and a row of fetiche images, 
 guarded the entrance, and the usual line of bamboo poles 
 partitioned off the Amazons from the sterner (?) sex. Our 
 umbrella, as usual, was set up between the Bush king's " place '* 
 and the king's fetiche images, and on our right the miscellaneous 
 battery was planted. 
 
 The arrival of the artillery- women put us on the qui vive for 
 his Majesty, who was greeted with a salvo of musketry and the 
 discharge of the " big guns " on our right. After saluting us he 
 retired to the sofa under the Tokpon, and Ningan advancing 
 announced to the people that the Custom was about to be con- 
 tinued. The Tononun then shut off the gate from all access to 
 the male soldiery by a row of bamboos, and presently a line 
 of fetiche images, pots, irons, crockery, and what not, notified 
 to us that we were going to be treated to another display of 
 the royal nick-nacks. After the deities came the Idng's 
 white mule, which was accommodated with an umbrella, and 
 lustily cheered as it passed. Then came several wooden images, 
 the lion, devil, and others ; the rear being brought up by 
 a man carrying a black wooden pig, which had succeeded in 
 swallowing another of equal size to itself, except the head, which 
 still stuck out of its mouth. A number of new standards for 
 presentation to the various regiments followed, the devices being 
 fighting men, double-headed eagles, heads, swords, &c. 
 
 The ministers then paraded in their long robes, and were
 
 CHAP. XV. THE ATTOH PEOCESSION. 355 
 
 followed by the captains, then by the head soldiers, and lastly by 
 the Tononun and his half-head company. Ningan then made a 
 great speech, saying that last night four men were sent to join 
 Gezu's household, and that their heads were then placed round 
 the tomb of that monarch at Abomey. Thus it appears that last 
 night was another Nox irce, but the victims were executed within 
 the palace wall, and not in public. 
 
 Meu then delivered an elaborate speech, the subject being 
 principally that of the king's various tents. He said the king 
 had one with all animals on it (probably the Tokpon mentioned 
 by Burton) ; another, a " double " tent, with side pieces, which 
 was kept at Kana — the large tent we had seen in the Akwaji 
 courtyard ; and now they saw a large tent made by Gelele for 
 his father's spirit to sit under. He finished by saying that " a 
 man covering his house with thatch often has it blown off, and 
 then must go to the bush for grass to repair it. If, however, he 
 had a tent, and it was torn, he could always repair it with a 
 needle and cotton. Gelele had, therefore, made this tent so that 
 his father should not be roofless, in case the thatch on his tomb 
 should be blown off." 
 
 The usual miscellaneous procession followed ; but in the place 
 of the rum and liqueurs carried at the So-Sin Custom, guns, 
 powder and bullets, cowries in heads and loose in baskets and 
 calabashes, cloth, &c., were carried on the heads of the women. 
 Behind them came fourteen victims bound to the baskets, who 
 were exhibited to the king and received a mock pass of rum, 
 which was drank by their guards. These men will be executed 
 for the king ; they were taken from the victim-shed on the 
 Attoh. 
 
 The silver ornaments for the king's tomb, a number of state 
 carriages and Leopard wives, followed ; each Kposi receiving a 
 glass of spirits from the king's private table, which was set 
 before him. 
 
 Meanwhile the gathering clouds had long foretold the coming 
 of a heavy thunder-storm, and at this point in the proceedings it
 
 356 THE ATTOn CUSTOM. CHAP. xv. 
 
 burst upon us in all its fury. A j^ust of wind sent tlie umbrellas 
 flying in every direction, and getting under the Tokpon, rent it 
 in several places, and I fully expected to see it carried to the 
 ground, in spite of what the Men had just said about it, to say 
 nothing of the powerful fetiche guardians belonging to it. 
 
 Gelele seemed to be of the same opinion, for he stopped the 
 procession of Amazons and took shelter from the pouring rain 
 under the P we -shed. He then sent for me, and said that the 
 rain would prevent any more display ; and as he was afraid, if I 
 got wet, I should have a return of fever, he would pass me. He 
 then summoned the Tononun and seven others of the eunuch 
 company, and bidding me adieu, passed me through the Amazons. 
 On arriving at the outside, I found the path cleared for the 
 passage of these semi-sacred soldieresses, and the crowd assembled 
 in a Hue outside the stakes. 
 
 When they saw me passing down the Amazons' lane, they 
 immediately set up a praise-yell for the king. Thanks to this 
 great favour on the part of his Majesty, we arrived at our 
 quarters without any delay; as if we had not been thus "passed" 
 we should have been obliged to walk all round the palace to 
 avoid the Amazons. 
 
 The rain continued until nearly seven o'clock, when we heard 
 the indefatigable king distributing the guns, cowries, cloth, and 
 powder from the platform of the Attoh to the crowd who were 
 gathered at the foot, knee deep in mud and mire. A berth under 
 the Dahoman Government is by no means a sinecure, especially 
 during the Custom ; for both king, lords and commons, appear 
 to be engaged for about eighteen hours out of every twenty-four. 
 
 About two in the morning a loud knocking at our gate announced 
 the arrival of our portion of the gifts, consisting of two guns, 
 nineteen heads of cowries, one one-fifth keg of powder, a bag 
 of bullets, four country cloths, and a calabash of loose cowries. 
 The king had only just left the platform when the messengers 
 started.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE ATTOH CUSTOM— (co^^iMMa^). 
 
 MINO-ZOHN-WA GBE.— THE AMAZONS WILL WALK IN PROCESSION 
 
 TO-DAY. 
 
 The Fifth Section of tlic Attoh Custom. — Procession of Amazons — Executions for 
 them — Amazonian Tokpon procession — More victims. 
 
 T}ie Sixth Section of the Attoh Custom. — Palaver with the Amazons — Execution 
 of eight of the offenders, and establishment of the Roue company — 
 Procession of war captains and Amazons — Distribution of cowries and 
 cloth to the warriors — Sacrifice of a victim for the Meu — Novel cure for 
 headache — Procession for the Meu — Visit to Hahansu — His opinion on 
 the slave trade and the human sacrifices. 
 
 The Seventh and Last Section of the Attoh Custom. — Distribution of cowries to 
 the Amazons and sacrifice of two victims — Presentation of new cloth to 
 the ministers — Procession of the principal ofiicers — Distribution of cloth 
 to the Amazons and procession afterwards — Gift of cloth and cowries to 
 the princes — Parade of cowries by the army — Dahoman cannibals — 
 Decapitation of four Nagos and gift of six to me — Conclusion of the Attoh 
 Custom for Gelele. 
 
 October tlie 26th was occupied by tlie king in distributing 
 cowries, cloth, &c., to the Amazons within the precincts of the 
 palace ; and the next morning we proceeded to the western 
 square, where we arrived by nine o'clock. A number of Amazons 
 then marched round the Uhon-nukon, firing, dancing, and throwing 
 up their guns, as their male predecessors had done before them. 
 The king was carried on a dark Prussian-blue hammock, hand- 
 somely decorated with orange lions and tassels from the awning. 
 After this display they went outside the palace, and cowries, 
 guns, and cloth were given to them, just as had been done to the 
 men on the 25th. In an hour they again appeared, and the king,
 
 358 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. chap. xvi. 
 
 mounting the platform, announced, through the female Ningan, 
 that cowries, cloth, &c., had been given to the Amazons, and that 
 a man, an alligator, a cat, and a hawk had been sacrificed for 
 them. We were then dismissed to breakfast, and recalled to the 
 palace about noon. 
 
 We again entered the western courtyard, and found the ill 
 effects of the storm had been effaced, the torn damask of the 
 Tokpon being repaired, and all made clean as a new pin. The 
 Amazonian ministers, captains, lifeguards, and eunuchs then 
 paraded similarly to the outside nobles, the Gundeme gi^^ng a 
 thrilling, cold-blooded account of the three victims she had deca- 
 pitated during the night. Loud cheers from both sides of the 
 audience followed this confession of murder, and the Gundeme 
 and her companions retired to the right of the king. 
 
 The usual procession followed, the victims being represented 
 by nine poor fellows, with the accompanying alligator, cat, and 
 hawk. The guns, cowries, powder, &c., were supplemented by 
 cartridge-belts, bullet-pouches, and other accoutrements, and the 
 silver ornaments were followed by two women bearing silver 
 swish-beaters, " to show," as Beecham said, " that the tools were 
 ready for any great undertaking the king might wish performed." 
 The last time these were used was at the formation of the late 
 king's tomb, so that Beecham's allusion was not very a propos. 
 The procession closed with a parade of the wives of the present 
 king and the " mothers " of the late sovereigns, the rear being 
 brought up until dark by' a medley group of captains, privates, 
 priestesses, and lay-women. During the ceremony the king sent 
 me a large calabash full of cashew-nuts, pomegranates, oranges, 
 limes, and other fi'uits, with a specimen of Amazonian confec- 
 tionery in the shape of a pudding of ground maize mixed with 
 sugar and fried in palm-oil. As soon as it was too dark to see 
 anything, the king passed us, sending a couple of lantern-bearers 
 to light us on our homeward journey.
 
 CHAP. XVI. HAHANSU ON SLAVERY. 363 
 
 Addokpon's wives followed, clad in gorgeous raiment of pink 
 silk. Then came six hundred and forty-one young girls, carrying 
 small gourds of loose cowries. Some of them were captives, taken 
 from their homes but a short time, who, on coming into the presence, 
 betrayed their fear of the Dahoman monarch by running past the 
 royal seat, much to the disgust of the Dahkros, who rushed after 
 them and boxed their ears, besides overwhelming them with a 
 torrent of abuse that only added to their terror. 
 
 Then came two victims, tied to baskets as usual. They wore 
 foolscaps of lilac calico, and one long-backed fellow, who was 
 mounted on the head of a tall Amazon, received a severe blow 
 from the lintel of the Pwe-shed as he was carried under it. The 
 royal hammocks, carriages, flags, Akhosusi, and fetiche images 
 then followed, and at 6.30 we received our signal of dismissal 
 from the Dahkro, who brought us a large decanter of port wine 
 as " pass." 
 
 After dinner I paid a visit to the prince, and told him that the 
 king was causing me serious injury by his detention of me. He 
 replied that in three days the Custom would be finished, and then 
 I should go. He was sorry that any ill effects should accrae to 
 me, but was assured that I would take it in good part, as his 
 father had a very great liking for me. He then entered upon 
 the slave question. He said that the custom of the country 
 required the king to make war, and that from the captives he 
 selected some of the victims. The English Government had 
 stopped the slave trade from Whydah, and now wished the king to 
 discontinue the sacrifices of the Custom, asking him to give up 
 the time-honoured state pageant, and offering nothing in return. 
 Why did they not allow them to sell the victims for the Custom, 
 as then they would not have any occasion to slaughter them, for 
 the people would be satisfied if they were sold and the proceeds 
 distributed to them. But if the king discontinued the sacrifices, 
 and did not substitute an equivalent, the people would think the 
 king was afraid of the English people, and would say that he 
 was not fit to rule so brave a people as the Dahomans. More
 
 364 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. chap. xvi. 
 
 than three hundred * had been killed during the Custom already, 
 and the king was willing to save their lives if he could do so 
 mth safety to himself and his dynasty. He said that to-night 
 the cowries would be fought for in the square before the gate, 
 and that the ferocious nature of the people demanded the human 
 sacrifices to keep them in awe. 
 
 ATTOH GOMOJEH GBE.— THE ATTOH WILL BE BROKEN TO-DAY. 
 
 The next day was occupied by the king in re\'iewing a proces- 
 sion of the Amazonian ministers, throwing cowries, cloths, &c., 
 from the inside platform and in decapitating the two victims who 
 were paraded yesterday. 
 
 The following morning we arrived at the palaver-sheds in the 
 western Uhon-nukon by half-past six o'clock, fully resigned to our 
 inevitable fate of a twelve or fourteen hours' seance. Early as 
 we were, the greater portion of the nobles and captains had 
 already assembled, and were marching round the square dancing, 
 firing guns, and singing war-songs. The newly-created Gaou 
 was capering about in the midst of a company of the Bru guard, 
 from amongst whom he had been raised to his present high office. 
 The night guards, with all their heralds, were perambulating the 
 palace, firing their guns, dinning upon their gong-gongs, and 
 Avaving flags about as if they were "possessed." The old 
 Tononun and his half-heads were in a fearful state of excitement 
 over their bundles of bamboo sticks. The Ahundatoh and Klan 
 the two companies of jesters, were conspicuous in newly white- 
 washed limbs, and paid us frequent visits, each striving to cut the 
 other out of our good favour. Adoncjan was busy repairing the 
 thorny fence at the foot of the platform, and several fetiche men 
 were replacing the broken crockery at the foot of the flagstaffs. 
 
 Presently the gates of the palace opened, and the king came 
 out under a gorgeous umbrella of Wolct and orange velvet. His 
 
 * I cannot but think this is an error of Beecham's translation, especially as 
 the higher numbers in Ffon are very ambiguous.
 
 CHAP. XVI. DISTRIBUTION OF CLOTH. 365 
 
 leopard wives followed him, dressed in green silk with pink 
 underskirts, and silver chaplets round their brows. A salute of 
 guns, strong names, and ringing of the eunuchs' bells greeted 
 the monarch, who bowed to the crowd, and then ascended the 
 platform. The ministers were then called to the foot of the 
 Attoh, and after a prehminary speech from the king, he threw 
 the Ningan a piece of cloth, which that officer received on bended 
 knees, and after well smothering himself with swish, put it on. 
 He then ascended the rostrum, while a similar piece of cloth 
 was given to the Men, who stationed himself at the foot of the 
 ladder, the remainder of the ministers being outside the thorny- 
 hedge. Cloth was then handed down to the Ningan, who called 
 out the name of the recipient, and handing it to the Meu, he 
 passed it over the hedge to the presentee. All the cloths were 
 opened by the Ningan, and the receivers at once put them on over 
 their other robes. The Governor and I were then called, and were 
 each presented with a fine native cloth, value about 80 dollars. 
 The strangers, headed by the Ashanti ambassadors, were then 
 similarly passed, after which cowries were distributed ; four large 
 baskets, each containing eight heads, falling to my share of the 
 royal bounty. 
 
 The king then descended from the Attoh and got into his 
 hammock, a splendid affair of crimson velvet, embroidered with 
 yellow braid, and awnings and curtains to match. He then 
 started for three marches round the square, the ministers follow- 
 ing, wearing their newly- received cloths and firing guns, singing 
 and dancing. 
 
 The procession over, the king again ascended the Attoh, and 
 the Tononun and his companions fenced ofi" a large space before 
 the platform. The female ministers then came in and were 
 presented with cloths, just as their male comrades had been 
 before them. The king was then carried round in his yellow 
 hammock, with the gun firing, singing, and dancing accompani- 
 ment. 
 
 This over, and the Amazonian ministers and king having again
 
 366 THE ATTOH CUSTOM. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 mounted the Attoh, cowries and cloth were dashed to the com- 
 mon folk, the usual scramble ensuing. After an hour of this 
 "pleasure," the gong-gong men sounded "J.%o," and the per- 
 spiring crowd dispersed. 
 
 I was told that upon these occasions, if any company does not 
 succeed in obtaining one at least of the pieces of cloth, they are 
 brought before the king and severely reprimanded, and then con- 
 denmed to sleep all night in the mud surrounding the water-pits, 
 to the north-east of the town. 
 
 The princes then assembled before the Attoh and received 
 presents of cloth and cowries, Hahansu bearing off as his share 
 three country cloths and eleven baskets of cowrie money. Some old 
 soldiers who had been pensioned off then received cloth and 
 cowries from the royal hand ; loud cries of " Bloo hloo " follow- 
 ing this act of the king, who called each of the pensioners by 
 name, thereby showing that, although they were exempt from 
 attending at court, he had not forgotten them nor their services to 
 the government. 
 
 A company from each of the principal regiments then marched 
 round the square, each followed by four men, dragging behind 
 them large flat baskets filled with cloth and cowries. The roues 
 who had been pardoned then appeared on the scene, bearing a 
 new flag, a white sheet with a tree on it, the trunk being half 
 cut through. This was an allegorical representation of the late 
 reprieve, signifying that they had almost lost their lives, but had 
 been pardoned by the king just in the nick of time. The 
 general of the Bru company, a tall fellow -with a grey beard, of 
 which he was terribly vain, then harangued the new company, 
 exhorting them to repent of their crime, and show that they 
 could after all be brave soldiers. They then marched up and 
 down before the king, singing, firing their guns, and dancing. 
 Several generals then received presents of rum, cloth, and cowries, 
 and at last the Ningan, ascending the ladder, called out " Aiah." 
 
 "We were then sent for to the foot of the platform. Fourteen 
 Nago captives bound to baskets, an alligator, a cat, and a hawk 
 
 I
 
 CHAP. XVI. DAHOMAN CAXXIBALS. 367 
 
 were then elevated on men's heads above the parapet of the 
 Attoh. Ningan then made a long speech, telling the assembly 
 that this was the concluding ceremony of the Attoh Custom for 
 Gelele, and that they would see that he was not forgetful of his 
 father's wish that the Attoh Custom should be sometimes per- 
 formed at Coomassie. 
 
 The ladders were then removed, and preparations made for 
 another butchery. A dispute arose among the various companies 
 as to who should have the pleasure of killing the victims. Each 
 candidate for the murderership declared that he would fight 
 bravely for the king, and begged to be allowed to show His 
 Majesty how he would slay his enemies. At length two men 
 who had distinguished themselves in the late Mahi war were 
 chosen as the executioners, and the palaver was settled. 
 
 Then four men, the Menduton, or Cannibals, stationed them- 
 selves before the platform, each being furnished with a sharpened 
 stick, by way of a fork, and a knife. In their left hand they 
 carried a small calabash filled with salt and pepper, and they at 
 once commenced to cry out to the king to give them meat to eat, for 
 they were hungry. These were the " blood drinkers " mentioned 
 by Duncan, who are supposed to devour the flesh of the victims of 
 the Customs. When the captives are beheaded they take one 
 of the bodies and cut off pieces of flesh, which they rub with 
 palm-oil, and roast over a fire kindled in the square before the 
 platform. The human flesh is then skewered on the pointed 
 sticks, and carried round the market-place; after which the 
 Menduton parade before the State prisoners, and go through the 
 action of eating the flesh. They chew the human meat before 
 the terrified captives, but do not swallow it ; and when they have 
 worked upon the fears of the poor wretches for a sufficient time, 
 they retire, and spitting out the chewed flesh, take strong medi- 
 cine which acts as an emetic, and I sincerely hope the dose is by 
 no means stinted. This is the nearest approach to anthropophagy 
 in Dahomey. 
 
 A hint was then given me by Beecham that if I asked the
 
 368 THE ATTOn CUSTOM. chap. xvi. 
 
 king to dash me one of the victims ho would do so. Resolving 
 to make an attempt to save the life of one, at least, of the poor 
 wretches, I sent my compliments to the king, requesting him to 
 present me with one of the victims, as Englishmen did not at all 
 approve of the human sacrifices, and if he spared only one it 
 would show that he had regard to the feelings of his friends. 
 The king sent word that he would grant my request. The four 
 men who were nearest the king were then thrown from the plat- 
 form and decapitated. The first three were not put to any extra 
 tortm-e, hut the fourth must have suffered excruciating agony. 
 Four hlows were given without severing the vertebral column, 
 the hack of the head presenting a fearful sight. The butcher 
 then put the bloody knife in his mouth, and seizing the ears of 
 the wretched being, wrenched it from side to side in the endea- 
 vour to screw it off", and finally, having dislocated the atlas, cut 
 the flesh that still connected the head with the trunk, A more 
 horrible sight I never witnessed. 
 
 The alligator, the cat, and the hawk were then beheaded, and 
 the remaining ten men unbound from the baskets, which were 
 thrown from the platform. The ladder was then replaced, and 
 six of the poor wretches handed down like sheep and passed over 
 to me, where they were made to kneel down and smother them- 
 selves with dirt. Two more were then passed down and pre- 
 sented to the company, and the remaining two given to the 
 Amazons. These four latter will be drafted into the service of 
 the outside and inside Ningans, and set to work as scavengers. 
 
 I then thanked the king for his present, and told him that 
 his leniency should be reported in England. 
 
 Several heads of cowries, wrapped up in crimson calico, were 
 then given to the ministers, and a firing party of Amazons took 
 up their position round the parapet. 
 
 " Ahcjo " was called out, and the king made a speech, saying that 
 he had now finished the Attoh Custom for himself, and in two 
 days would perform the Attoh for Addokpon, but that before 
 this he must welcome his friend Kerselay. When I heard
 
 .HAP. XVI. CONCLUSIOX OF GELELE'S ATTOH CUSTOM. 369 
 
 this I was in hopes that the long-wished-for permission to leave 
 the capital was at last about to be given, but I was again doomed 
 to disappointment. A volley of musketry, and a perfect uproar 
 of gong-gongs, strong names, prayers, &c., then succeeded, and 
 Gelele left the Attoh and retired within the palace. 
 This concluded Gelele's Attoh Custom. 
 
 B B
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE WELCOME FROM THE KING. 
 
 Fearful thunder-storm — Visit to Jegbeli palace — I am saluted by the Ashanti 
 company, and created a general of that corps — Presentation of " chop"' — 
 Delivery of the king's message by Hahansu — Salute of the royal body- 
 guard of Amazons — State banquet — Dahoman waiters. 
 
 Early on the morning of November 1st, Hahansu sent a 
 messenger to inform me that the king would welcome me during 
 the day. After waiting until noon in expectation of being sum- 
 moned, a second messenger arrived, telling me that the welcome 
 would take place at the king's palace at Jegheh. About two in 
 the afternoon a fearful storm of thunder and lightning set in, and 
 lasted for two hours. Its fury reminded me of the storms in the 
 Bay of Bengal during the changes of the monsoon. The 
 thatch was whirled from the roof by the fury of the gusts, and 
 the rain descended in sheets. The vivid lightning seemed to 
 run along the ground, and the crepetant thunder crashed around 
 as if the sky were rending in pieces. 
 
 In the midst of this Ghugalah arrived, bearing the summons 
 to the palace. He said that the king was now prepared to welcome 
 me, and that the rain would prevent the thatch from catching 
 fire in consequence of the gun-firing. As the back of the storm 
 was evidently broken, we started, a large umbrella being held 
 over my hammock as an additional protection from the rain. 
 Still the lightning flashed at intervals of a few seconds, and tbo 
 gloom beneath the trees was unearthly. 
 
 We passed along the road leading by Hahansu's house, so as
 
 CHAP. XVII. I AM CREATED A GENERAL. 371 
 
 to avoid the main gate, which would have entailed my alighting 
 from my hammock. I could not help remarking the curious 
 effect of the vivid flashes of lightning, which gave an appearance 
 to the sky similar to that observed on watered silk. 
 
 On arrival at the palace we entered the shelter of the Pwe- 
 shed ; and were received by the prince. In a few minutes the 
 Dahkro summoned us to the inside, where we found a company 
 of 260 soldiers of the Ashanti regiment in their leopard-skin 
 uniform, ranged before the king. The monarch sat under the 
 Pwe-shed, surrounded by his wives, and on my arrival advanced 
 to meet me. After " compliments," our mutual healths were 
 pledged, and then I took my seat beneath an umbrella, to the 
 king's right. 
 
 The soldiers then commenced firing, dancing, and singing, 
 Avhich lasted for about half an hour. The king then called me and 
 presented me with a leopard-skin cap and a musket, and said 
 that he made me a general in this company. This honour is 
 usually conferred upon visitors who fall into the good graces of 
 the sovereign. More firing and dancing continued, the captains 
 of the soldiers advancing to me and calling out their password, 
 "Nquahshu !" to which I replied joro /orwa, "Whohau ! " The 
 Governor then was announced, who was received by the king, 
 and afterwards conducted to an umbrella on the left of the 
 square, where he could get but a very sorry view of the 
 scene. It must have been rather humiliating to him to be a 
 spectator, but he had brought it all upon himself by liis foolish 
 conduct. 
 
 A troop of Amazons then filed in, bearing calabashes of cooked 
 food, cankie, maize, floui', tea, a sugar loaf, jars of oil, sealed 
 pots of water, onions, oranges, bananas, pomegranates, cashews, 
 and other fruits. These were set in a row before the king. 
 After them came a second band, bringing fowls, ducks, Guinea 
 fowl, pigeons, partridges, four goats, four sheep, and two 
 bullocks. 
 
 I was then summoned to the front, and Hahansu kneeling 
 
 E E 2
 
 372 THE WELCOME FEOM THE KING. chap. xvii. 
 
 before me with a lantern on each side of him, for it was by thi§ 
 time quite dark, delivered the king's message. 
 
 "Gelele sends -welcome to you (thrice repeated). He holds 
 you close to his heart ! No man who ever came to see him was 
 so good a man as yourself. He thanks you for your trouble for 
 the sea, for the journey to Abomey, for the swamp, and for jj 
 waiting for him until now. He was determined to welcome you 
 to-day in spite of rain, thunder or lightning. He welcomes you 
 with all these gifts, and promises to give you your pass to 
 Whydah in a few days." I made a suitable reply, and then 
 Hahansu danced to me, a compliment which I returned. 
 
 The Amazons then brought in numbers of lanterns, horn, 
 glass, or tin with holes in the sides, and the king, Hahansu, 
 and I had a ballet among ourselves ; the gun-firing and shouting 
 being deafening. We went through the decapitation-dance, the 
 sword-dance, and others ; I, of course, taking the cue from my 
 partners. 
 
 Rum, liqueurs, and water were then brought and distributed 
 to all, and the provisions were carried outside and delivered to a 
 number of porters who, under the charge of Bukau, conveyed 
 them to my residence. 
 
 The prince then made another speech, saying that Gelele 
 had welcomed me as he had never before welcomed a white man, 
 and that he had sent his own Amazonian guard to fire a salute 
 in my honour, and that I should have the stick of my regiment. 
 He then presented me Avith a Kpo carved into a rude idea of a 
 human fist, with several rings of silver round the apex. 
 
 A troop of Amazons then came in and fired ofi" a considerable 
 amount of powder; after which, shouting out their password, 
 they retired. The king then delivered me over to Hahansu, 
 with instructions to conduct me to the state banquet prepared for 
 me. I was led through several courtyards, Ahgo being duly cried 
 out before us, and finally halted imder a large shed which was 
 dimly illuminated by several lanterns and four large palm-oil 
 lamps. On a table a perfect regiment of bottles were arranged.
 
 CHAP. XVII. THE STATE BAXQUET. 373 
 
 and we opened the proceedings by drinking tlie king's and the 
 prince's health. Hahansu said that, although he was glad to 
 welcome me in this manner, by which all the people would know 
 that I was really the king's friend, yet he was sorry, because he 
 would soon have to bid me good-by, and would never see my 
 face again, he feared. 
 
 A sumptuous repast was then served up, consisting of roast, 
 Ijoiled, grilled, and devilled meats, vegetables, bread, and claret 
 together with limonade r/azeuse by way of drinks, 
 
 We were furnished vdth. knives and forks, and most of the 
 conveniences of civilization; the greatest drawback being the 
 assiduous attention of the waiters, who sometimes, fearing that I 
 had overlooked some bonne houche, would pick it up in their 
 fingers and put it on my plate. 
 
 The banquet over, water and napkins were brought, and we 
 rinsed our hands, after which more lemonade was produced, 
 together with a box of cigars. 
 
 After a long conversation on various topics, the prince rose 
 and conducted me to the gate, where he delivered me to the care 
 of the Ashanti soldiers, who accompanied me to my quarters, 
 singing, dancing, and firing guns. T^Hien I arrived I gave orders 
 to Amoosu to give the escort a demijohn of rum, which was 
 received with volleys of applause. They assured me that I was 
 a " proper " general, and that they would be led by me to fight 
 against any people. If I said they must go through fire, they 
 must go ; if I wished them to go into the earth, they must 
 descend ; all my wishes must be carried out. 
 
 I then retired, the weight of honours pressing heavily upon 
 me, and did not succeed in getting any sleep until long past 
 midnight, owing to the singing, gun-firing, and dancing of the 
 escort and my guard of honour.
 
 CHAPTER XVIIL 
 
 THE BUSH-KING'S ATTOH CUSTOM. 
 
 The king's speech — Palaver with the Benazon — Distribution of cloth for 
 Addokpon — Present to the builders of the Jegbeh palace — Execution for 
 Addokpon, and conclusion of his Attoh Custom — Attoh Custom for 
 Hahansu. 
 
 The Firing fm' the Attoh Custom.— A\^6h. Custom for the Amazons— Baptism of 
 the Roue company — Sham-fight of the male troops — Parade of Ama-i^nnR — 
 Gelele's speech — Reproof of the priests — Allegory of the Liseh — Con- 
 secration of Gezu's calabashes — Caution to the priests. 
 
 The next morning was to commence the Attoh custom for 
 Addokpon, the bush-king, and we were summoned to the gate 
 about three o'clock. 
 
 No sooner had we Hglited our pipes than the king came out 
 accompanied by his Amazonian guard, and ascended the platform 
 to the right of the Pwe-shed. I noticed that the king had not 
 his usual parasol in addition to the state umbrella, and was told 
 that when performing custom for Addokpon the parasol was not 
 used, that being one of the pri\'ileges Akhosu reserved to himself. 
 
 He then made a long speech respecting the conduct of the 
 soldiers during the late attack upon Abeokeuta. He said that 
 they had often promised to break Abeokeuta for him, and yet 
 they had never done anything but bring disgrace upon him. 
 He asked what he had done to deserve such treatment. Of 
 course several braves got up and declared that they would take 
 Abeokeuta single-handed, and made other braggadocio speeches 
 of a like nature, which, however absurd, appeared to satisfy the 
 monarch, who thereupon commenced to throw cowries, which 
 were scrambled for by the rabble.
 
 CHAP. XVIII. TUE BENAZUN IN TROUBLE. 375 
 
 After an hour of this sport, "Ahgo" was called, and the 
 Benazon summoned. Contrary to the usual custom in such 
 cases — when the name of the officer is scarcely out of the king's 
 lips ere the customary answer of " W^ae " is made, and the person 
 asked for is seen running to the king — Benazon did not put in 
 an appearance. His name was called out by the heralds, and at 
 last a messenger was despatched to his house to make inquiries. 
 
 The king then made a speech, and said that it was not a good 
 thing for a monarch to ask for any person and find that he 
 was not in the presence ; everybody ought to wait and see if the 
 king wanted them. In about ten minutes the delinquent 
 treasurer made his appearance with his hands bound before him, 
 hurried along by two of the Ajkayaho's guards. When he 
 approached the platform he fell on his knees, and began to throw 
 dust on his head. The king then asked where he had been. 
 He said that he had been home preparing his house for the princess 
 whom the king had promised him in marriage. Thereupon the 
 king ordered him to be taken to prison, and this high dignitary 
 was hurried oflf as if he were one of the rabble, and ignominiously 
 thrust into the Ajkayaho's gaol. The law in Dahomey evidently 
 knows no distinction of persons. 
 
 The king then said that he should not give his daughter to 
 any man who had not respect enough to him to wait in the court 
 until the king left it. It then cropped up that Benazon had 
 asked permission of the king to retire, and a new palaver arose to 
 find out the Dahkro who ought to have given the king the 
 message, and who had evidently given the Benazon a false reply. 
 This, however, was a matter for the " inside " and not to be 
 spoken before the canaille. After this, several ministers and 
 generals received cloth and co\vi'ies for Addokpou, and I was 
 summoned to the platform, where I was presented with a large 
 roll of chintz and twelve heads of cowries. 
 
 The Adonejan then ascended the ladder, and said that so 
 many palavers had arisen during the day, that the king could not 
 finish all the cowrie-throwing on that day, but would come out
 
 376 THE BUSH KING'S ATTOH CUSTOM. chap, xviii, 
 
 I 
 
 early in tlie mornixig and dasli the remaining cowries, and then 
 proceed with the second portion of the Custom for Addokpon. 
 
 The Men then came to us, bringing a huge decanter of West 
 India rum, and gave us permission, in the king's name, to 
 retire. 
 
 We did not go to the court on the following day until three 
 in the afternoon, as we were by this time getting rather tired of | 
 sitting still for hours and seeing a number of haK-naked savages 
 scrambling for cowries. 
 
 We found on seating ourselves that we had arrived in the nick of 
 time, for the cowrie struggle was just over. The masons, car- 
 penters, and other workmen who were engaged in building the 
 Jegbeh palace were then summoned, and cowries, cotton cloths, 
 oranges, and cankies were given to them. The "strangers" 
 were next called up, and presented with similar valuables. After 
 this the Governor and I received a few yards of printed hrillante, 
 and then took up our position near the hedge of thorns at the 
 foot of the platform. 
 
 Ten men were then brought up and hoisted upon the shoulders 
 of some of the Blue guards, together with the three victims of 
 lower organization. I again begged the king to dash me some of 
 the victims for Addokj)on as he had previously done for Akhosu. 
 The eight captives to the extreme left were then unlashed from 
 the baskets, and the other two thrown from the platform and 
 decapitated, together with tho* alligator and his companions. 
 
 Cowries wrapped in crimson cloth were then given to the 
 officers present, and a firing of guns announced the conclusion of 
 Addokpon's Attoh Custom. 
 
 Gelcld then descended from his station on the platform, and 
 seated himself on a sofa beneath several large umbrellas M'hich 
 had been set up to the proper left of a small platform that had 
 hitherto escaped my observation, or more probably, had only 
 been erected since yesterday. 
 
 This smaller Attoh was a miniature of Gelele's, but without 
 the victim-shed and the calico coverinjr. Hahansu and the
 
 / 
 
 CHAP, xviii. VICTIMS FOE ADDOKPOX. '677 
 
 other princes of the blood then ascended this platforni. ■^OcZ threw 
 a few cowries to the people, and concluded by throwing over four 
 ducks, two goats and a sheep, which were tied to baskets in a 
 similar manner to the human victims. The heads of these 
 animals were then cut off ; and a few bunches of cowries tied in 
 blue cloth being thrown to the people, two guns were fired, thus 
 bringing the Attoh for the princes to a termination happily 
 without the crime of murder attached to it. 
 
 Gelele then retired within the palace, and we received a pass 
 bottle from the king and one also from the princes, and, just as 
 the sun was setting, set out for home. 
 
 THE FIRING FOR THE ATTOH CUSTOM. 
 
 For the next two days the king was busily engaged in per- 
 forming the Attoh custom for the Amazons within the palace 
 walls ; merely perambulating the palace about ten o'clock in the 
 forenoon, accompanied by his Amazonian guards. He was 
 carried the first day in a dark blue hammock, and on the second 
 appeared in state in one of the old-fashioned chariots, drawn by 
 about forty Amazons. 
 
 I was suffering from an attack of intermittent fever, and was 
 glad of a couple of days' respite from the hard laboui'S of 
 "pleasm-e ;" for I can assure the incredulous reader that it is hard 
 work to sit for hours under a burning sun. 
 
 In the evening of the second day I went by hammock down 
 the Kana road to see the "proving" of the newly organised roue 
 company, as I christened the culprits in the Amazonian palaver 
 for want of a better term. Just in the fork of the roads near 
 the Adanwe palace the soldiers were drawn up in line, and on 
 my arrival declared that they were going to make a road for 
 GeleM. As the only road open was the main road to Kana, I 
 could not understand their palaver for a few minutes, until 
 Amoosu told me that they were going to charge the "bush." 
 The " bush " was a tangled thicket of prickly pears, acacias, 
 llianas, and aloes ; and I could scarcely believe that any naked-
 
 THE BL'Sn KING'S ATTOH CUSTOil. chap, xviii. 
 
 T'pi in his senses would attempt to enter it. I was 
 J however, for at a given signal the corps charged fall 
 Jo the bush, and in about ten minutes emerged on the 
 opposite road, whither we had gone to see them come out. A 
 sorry appearance they put in when they arrived, with torn 
 uniforms, bleeding with numerous wounds from the thorny 
 shnibs as they limped along ; but when all had passed through 
 they commenced a song for Gelele, and notwithstanding their 
 wounds, commenced to dance. Surely they must have been in a 
 state of frenzy, for after an hour's performance they started off 
 for Coomassie, singing and firing guns as they marched along, 
 sorely scratched by their conflict with a botanical foe. 
 
 The next morning we repaired to the western TJhon-nukon at 
 an early hour, prepared for another long day's sitting. After being 
 stared at for about twenty minutes, the king made his ap- 
 pearance, dressed in fighting costume, with the black war-streaks 
 on his face. On his arrival, the ministers advanced to meet him, 
 and throwing themselves on all-fours before him, scattered the 
 sand about them in perfect showers. The main body of the 
 soldiery, who had remained concealed round the northern angle 
 of the palace, then came forward, and formed a line on either 
 side of the king. At a signal from Gelel^, they all advanced, 
 firing their guns, as on the "glad" day for the So-sin Custom, and 
 an army at the western side of the square wheeled round, formed 
 into a clumsy column, and marched three times round the 
 square. 
 
 They then assembled round the king, and in a deafening 
 uproar yelled out their respective watch-words, ending by throw- 
 ing their gims up into the air, and catching them dexterously by 
 the barrel as they descended. The effect of a thousand brightly 
 polished guns suddenly thro^ATi aloft was very curious. The male 
 soldiery then filed off to the north on an itinerary round the 
 palace and Uhunglo market. 
 
 The Amazons then came forward and went through similar 
 evolutions, their watch-cries jarring upon the ear by reason of
 
 CHAP. XVIII. THE FIRIXG FOR THE ATTOIl CUSTOM. 370 
 
 their shrill voices. Just as they started on their round the male 
 soldiery appeared on our right, and the Tononun and his company 
 commenced to set up the umbrellas in an ojjen square before the 
 Pwe-shed at the gate, leaving a bamboo-guarded path for the 
 Amazons to enter the courtyard' on their return from the circum- 
 ambulation of the palace. 
 
 Meanwhile Gelele had taken his seat under the shed, and had 
 " liquored up," and by the time " daybreak " was announced, 
 the firing party of Amazons had arrived upon the ground and 
 taken up their positions round the king. 
 
 Gelele then made a lengthy speech. He commenced by asking 
 where the remainder of the fetiche people were, and why they 
 had not come to the court ? He said that a herald had gone 
 round three days beforehand and given notice that everybody 
 must attend on this day. He would have sent for the Avogan, 
 were he not too old to be hurried up to the capital. He would, 
 however, send full particulars of the meeting to him by trusty 
 messengers. " Ahgo " was then called out, and a few strong 
 names ejaculated by the hunchbacked police. 
 
 The king then said that formerly the Dahomans were always 
 in hot water, being surrounded by powerful enemies, who made 
 them pay tribute, and were constantly ravaging then- country. 
 In Tegbwesun's time, however, there was quiet ; so also in Mpen- 
 gula's and in Agongolu's time. During the reign of Gezu every- 
 body was happy, and there was plenty of trade, and everything 
 prospered. He conquered many nations, and broke towns without 
 number. 
 
 Now, however, the people had become stiflfnecked and per- 
 verse. His Mohammedans, with their Arabic inscriptions and 
 oharms, deceived him. His fetiche people made all sorts of 
 mistakes, and the Bukono diviners, who cast lots to ascertain the 
 will of the gods, told him many lies. How was this ? He gave 
 them everything that lay in his power, and everything they asked 
 for, whether cowries, bullocks, goats, slaves, or wives ; but still, 
 in spite of aU this, they did not tell him the truth. Look at the
 
 380 THE BUSH-KING'S ATTOn CUSTOM. chap, xviii. 
 
 expense lie was put to during the last war, no person could esti- 
 mate it, not even himself. The diviners told him he would go out 
 and meet witt an easy victory, and yet he was beaten hack and 
 disgraced. 
 
 If any person was desirous of becoming Icing, thinking that he 
 would have nothing to do, let him come and try it, even for one 
 moon. He would find that he would get no rest, night or day, 
 but would be constantly receiving and sending messengers, and if 
 he made any mistake great palavers would arise. 
 
 It was true that he was a great king, and had plenty of wives, 
 slaves, money, and umbrellas, but what was the good of all these, 
 if he had no leisure to enjoy them ? 
 
 On the other hand, he had many enemies, and if he once 
 rested they would rise up and take his country and his people 
 from him. He must always be on his guard. He was befooled 
 by his people in the last war, but they should not do it again. 
 If he were not continually making Custom, and telling his people 
 what to do, they would all desert him and run away to the bush, 
 where they would be caught and sold as slaves. 
 
 The Khctungan, the Amazonian Gaou, here made the remark 
 that the Amazons inside performed their pai't properly, and that 
 it was the outside people who neglected their business. 
 
 A basket of fruit like a cashew, here called Liseh, the Akyan 
 of the Fantees, was then brought out. The ripe fruit is easily 
 broken open, but the immature ones are very hard and tough. 
 Gelele then took a ripe and an unripe cashew in his hands and 
 " made a parable." 
 
 He said that he saw plenty of ripe fruit hanging in the garden, 
 but he was going to despise it and go straight to the unripe. It 
 would not be long before he went. The " bush " would tremble 
 this year. "The Lion" would get up out of his lair and prowl 
 about for his prey, and every one would quake with fear. 
 
 The hidden meaning of this was that Gelele would not go to 
 war with the small to-^-ns, but against a large one — Abeokeuta 
 He then unfurled a new standard, bearing four scarlet cashews
 
 CHAP. XVIII. THE FETICHE CALABASHES. 381 
 
 on a white ground. This he gave to the captain of the Life- 
 guards, and told him that when he had taken Aheokeuta he was 
 to give the flag back again to the king inside the palace. I am 
 very much afraid the flag will never be returned. He then said 
 that his father Gezu had told him that if he made two calabashes 
 for him, when his spirit came to drink it would come to the cala- 
 bashes, and would there tell him if he would be successful in his 
 undertakings, so that he need not be deceived by the fetiche 
 people. 
 
 He then called out to the Amazons, who brought out two 
 fetiche " calabashes " of the extinguisher shape, made of silver, 
 with iron and brass ornaments. On the side of each extinguisher 
 were four iron projections, pierced with holes, and round the 
 bottom was a row of silver Lisch nuts, above which a row of 
 brazen knob-sticks for the. Bo-fetiche was fixed. From one of 
 them a small afiair like a fish-Tiook dangled, and from the other 
 two indescribable filagree somethings ; both strong fetiche, no 
 doubt. Attached to one side of each calabash was a highly 
 decorated silver pistol ; one with a barrel twelve inches long for 
 Gezu, and the other eight inches long for Gahqpweh, Gezu's bush- 
 king. A silver cover, in the shape of a calabash, with a small 
 stalk by way of a handle, covered the calabashes, which were 
 about eighteen inches high and nine in diameter, and fixed on 
 iron rods five feet long. 
 
 Gelele had these planted before him, and showed and explained 
 them to his admiring audience. Kposu then made a speech, 
 saying that " it was good that Abeokeuta must be taken this 
 year. King Gezu was a great king. All the white people loved 
 him, and last year the w^hite people came and danced for him, 
 although he was dead. This was a good sign. Now white men 
 were here also ; one of them the king's great friend. Let them 
 come and see the calabashes, that the king's friend may write and 
 tell his people what Gelele has done for Gezu." 
 
 Loud applause followed this speech, and I was then called out 
 and requested to examine the fetiche calabashes. They were of
 
 382 THE BUSH KING'S ATTOH CUSTOM. CHAP, xviii. 
 
 rude workmanship, most likely formed out of dollars melted up, 
 and to the king's delight I took a sketch of them, which he 
 greatly admired. I said that it was, no doubt, good for the 
 white men to reverence the memory of his father, Gezu, and that 
 I was glad that I was present at this Custom to see the calabashes^ 
 and had no doubt that when the king went to war again he 
 would be successful. Deafening cheers and prayers then suc- 
 ceeded, and the king taking my hand said, with much emotion, 
 " Yes, yes, it is true, as long as you are my friend I must bo 
 successful." 
 
 Gelele then had the calabashes removed, and told the people 
 that when they retired from the court they were to think of what 
 he had told them, and be industrious, and fight with brave hearts, 
 and not run away as if they were cowards. He said that if they 
 only carried out his orders they would always be happy ; but that 
 if they disobeyed the orders of their lawful king they must 
 expect sorrow and punishment. He concluded by sajang that in 
 future if any of the Bo-fetichists, or enchanters, told him an}'thing 
 false, so that it did not come to pass, as they prophesied, at the 
 next war, they must certainly be killed ; and that if any man 
 gave any fetiche priestess a bullock, goat, or fowl to i)ra}' 
 strongly for the success of any undertaking, and it afterwards 
 failed, the priestess should certainly lose her head. 
 
 It was by this time nearly nine o'clock, and we were very 
 much relieved when we saw our Dahkro approach with our pass- 
 rum, and a lantern for our accommodation.
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 Visit to Abomey — The " Storey House" — Palace gates of the kings— The black- 
 smiths' quarter — Description of a smithy and native mode of working iron 
 — The Gaou-h we-gudoh — The Abomey gate — "Golgotha" — Palaver at home. 
 
 The First Section of tlie Sin Kicaiii Custom. — Visit to the Dahomey palace — 
 Gates of the mothers of the kings — Tombs of Daho, Aho, and Akabah — 
 Ceremony of conversing with the deceased kings' spirits — Kpofensu"s 
 palaver. 
 
 The Secoml Section of the Sin Kioain Custom. — Tlie Kosi bards — Offerings to the 
 spirits of the three kings — Prayers to the deceased kings — Decapitation of 
 a man for the spirits — The blood sprinkling — Banquet of the kings' 
 spirits — Return by the "Western route. 
 
 The Third Section of the Sin Kv:ain Custom. — Agajah's palace at Abomey — Tombs 
 of Agajah, Tegbwesun, Mpengula and Agongolu — Description of their 
 monumental ornaments —Agajah's spirit-house —Tombs of the mothers of 
 the four kings — Speech of the Kosi — A forgetful Dahkro — A crafty 
 merchant — Offerings to Agajah. 
 
 The next day Ghugalah came early to me and brouglit word 
 from the king that he had gone to Abomey to pay a \'isit to one 
 of the tombs. As I thought it would be a good opportunity to 
 see more of the old town than I had hitherto done, I ordered 
 out my hammock and started for the palace. 
 
 The way led through the Uhunglo market, where as hetero- 
 geneous a collection was exposed for sale as at Whydah ; but the 
 space covered by the booths was more than four times as large. 
 Leaving this busy scene on our left, we passed through the 
 Akochyogbonun, the south-eastern gate of the capital. I dis- 
 mounted from my hammock and walked through. The " gate " 
 was a thick mud wall, five courses high, with two gaps ten feet 
 wide cut through it. The one to the left was appropriated by the 
 king, and closed by a wicker screen, while the right-hand portal 
 was open to the common folk.
 
 4J84 THE SIN K^'AIX CUSTOM. chap. xix. 
 
 Passing straight through this by no means imposing structure, 
 and leaving a battery of honeycombed guns on the left, we went 
 on in a northerly direction, until we reached the celebrated 
 Abomey palace on our left, the usual swish wall of five courses 
 liigh. 
 
 I then alighted from my hammock to have a chat with 
 Hahansu, who was having an al fresco breakfast, consisting of all 
 the deKcacies of the season. He conversed upon various matters, 
 but was particularly profuse in his eulogies respecting the carrying 
 powers of one of my guns,* with which he had been shooting the 
 ^ay before. He said that the guns bought at Whydah were not 
 worthy of mention in comparison with mine ; besides which they 
 were flint guns, and when the edge of the flint was worn away, it 
 took up much valuable time in adjusting another. 
 
 The trade guns of which he spoke are Birmingham manufac- 
 tured articles, all Tower proof; but as they can be purchased 
 retail for seven shillings and sixpence, their finish is not the 
 acme of perfection. 
 
 After pledging our healths I again started for the scene of the 
 state ceremonials, the jabbering of the hammock-mA being 
 wonderfully increased by the heavy potations of rum they had 
 indulged in at Hahansu's expense. 
 
 Wc continually met gangs of the Amazons with their bells, 
 causing our progress to be a succession of tacks from side 
 to side, instead of making a straight course. We soon came 
 on to a broad open space, the Uhon-nukon Singbo, or square, for 
 the "Storey House." Hero the Customs were performed last year. 
 
 Beneath some large trees in the centre were several old brass 
 cannons, one, as mentioned by Bcecham, with the date 1640 
 upon it, and others doubtless nearly as ancient. On the left was 
 an opening in the palace wall, with the usual Pwe-shed, called 
 
 * This was a doublc-baiTelled muzzle-loader, of 13 gauge, by Messrs. E. M. 
 Reilly & Son, of Oxford-street. It was a great favourite with me, and had jiroved 
 a faithful servant among the goriUas of the Gaboon. A more steady-shooting, 
 trustworthy weapon at the price I never handled.
 
 CHAP. XIX. THE ABOMET TALACE GATES. 385. 
 
 the Adan-glo-koh-deh. The name means, " Let the brave people 
 (come and take Dahomey) if they like plenty of fighting." 
 Beyond this was the celebrated Singbo, or Storey House, the first 
 building ever erected in the capital wdth an upper floor. It was a 
 barn-like shed, about forty feet high, with the usual thatclied 
 roof. Eight holes, closed with green-painted wooden shutters, 
 served as windows, and a small Pwe-shed covered the rude 
 ladder that led to the upper floor. Opposite this a row of low 
 sheds were built for the accommodation of the lieges during the 
 sitting of the Dahoman Parliament. 
 
 Turning an angle in the palace we came upon anotlicr shed, 
 the Agrim-masogbe ; and beyond it a second gate, the Agwaji, 
 called also from its builder, Tegbwesun's gate. In front of this was 
 a small pool of water, which received the drainage of this portion 
 of the Aboracy palace, not by any manner of means a wise 
 sanitary arrangement. 
 
 Beyond, round another angle of the palace wall, is the Cowrie 
 House, as the Gehwe is known to Europeans. This, like the 
 Singbo, is a " storey-house," but very much weather-worn and 
 dilapidated. A row of what were once window-holes arc now 
 fast merging into a single gap, and the whole place is evidently 
 tottering to its fall. In the good old times long strings of 
 cowries were hung out of the windows during Customs time, 
 and festoons of dollars, the price of the slaves sold at Whydah, 
 astonished the gaping crowd below. On the palace wall near it 
 the heads of numerous victims, including the 127 victims of the 
 Customs of 1785, formed an ornament along its ridge. 
 
 We were now arrived at the north-eastern angle of the Abomey 
 palace, where a large Pwe-shed covered the ancient gate of 
 Agajah — the Agrim-go-mcn. Turning to the left, we came to 
 the Han-ho-nukonji gate, the north-eastern entrance built by 
 Mpengula, in Abomey, Avith several elephant lionos and otiier 
 relics strewn around. Tliis palace is one of several others built 
 within the spacious walls of the Abomey enceinte, and the reader 
 is cautioned against su])posing that it is a totally separate building
 
 386 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. CHAP. xix. 
 
 from the Abomcy palace, when, in fact, it forms a part of that 
 enormous pile of mud buildings. 
 
 Amoosu then went into the courtyard to present my compli- 
 ments to the king, and soon after returned with a pass bottle of 
 rum. His message was that the king sent his compliments to 
 me, and said he was not doing anything worth seeing, but merely 
 making arrangements for the Sin Kwain Custom, and that to- 
 morrow I should be admitted. Nevertheless he was pleased that 
 I had called at the palace. 
 
 I therefore again took hammock, and returned home, this 
 time taking another route. Our way led us past the Men's 
 palace, thr(jugh the blacksmiths' quarter, where a number of 
 native artificers were at work. I dismounted to examine their 
 mode of forging the ironwork which I had seen exposed in the 
 market. The shops were open sheds, and the fire was made in a 
 hollow on the floor, the fuel being charcoal and palm kernel- 
 husks. 
 
 A draught was generated by a small pair of bellows of the 
 regular savage pattern. Two wooden cylinders, rudely formed 
 from portions of tree trunks, were fixed in the ground about four 
 feet from the fire. On the top of each of these, a leather bag, 
 like a stocking leg was fastened, the upper end being gathered 
 round a long stick passing through the wooden cylinders. 
 Within the tubes were leather valves, so that by raising one 
 of these air was admitted into the bag, and on pressing it down 
 it was expelled through a wooden pipe extending from the 
 bottom of the cylinders to the fire, where the end was covered 
 with clay to prevent it burning. The two pipes from the 
 cylinders were fixed into one tuyere, so that by alternately 
 elevating and depressing the handles, something like a con- 
 tinuous blast was produced. I have seen a pair of bellows among 
 the Fans exactly resembling these. It is one of the many 
 instances of the great sunilarity between the implements of 
 A\idely separated savage nations. Between the hearth and bellows 
 a large earthen saucer was set up on its side to act as a screen.
 
 CHAP. XIX. A BLACKSMITH'S SHOP. 387 
 
 and tlio cylinders and pipes of the bellows were buried in swish. 
 The anvil Avas a large block of granite, brought with considerable 
 hibour from Mahi, The face was tolerably smooth, but not 
 ])laced horizontally as with us, but sloping at an angle of forty- 
 five degrees. The hammers were heavy iron affairs, shaped like 
 the beaters used by plumbers in flattening lead. Some had flat 
 faces, and others convex, the latter being used in fashioning hoes, 
 fetiche-asen, and other hollow articles. The operator stood 
 behind the apex of the anvil, and stooped over his work in a 
 very back- aching position, one would suppose. The work was 
 held by tongs of iron, evidently copied from European articles, 
 and they had in addition punches, cold chisels, files, and drills, 
 all manufactured on the spot. Some of the more wealthy black- 
 smiths have a few English tools ; but with the majority, as is 
 also the case with Chinese cabinet-makers, skill in the use of an 
 inferior tool more than compensates for the want of the better 
 articles manufactured in England. 
 
 When any orders come in — for they manufacture for stock 
 with but few exceptions, as in the case of the more common 
 knives and fetiche-irons — a certain quantity of iron is weighed 
 out, from which the required article is forged, and the price of 
 the article is dependent upon this and the finish. They do not 
 smelt iron, but obtain it from the coast, where it is imported 
 from England in the form of bars and rods. A very little is 
 bought from the tribes to the north, and this is exclusively used 
 for fetiche purposes. 
 
 Their workmanship is not nearly so good as that of the Fan 
 tribe on the Gaboon, who, with even ruder tools, will make knives 
 of wonderful temper. The laboui- is excessive, the massive iron 
 maces they use for hammers rendering a hea^y blow almost a 
 herculean feat. Strange that they should not have discovered so 
 simple a tool as a hammer, but tliis is a cii'curastance noticed 
 among many tribes. 
 
 Of course the craft has a tutelary deity, the Guh, which is stuck 
 up in a conspicuous place under the shed, and has offerings of
 
 388 THE SIX KWAIX CUSTOM. chap. xix. 
 
 water and a hasty pudding of maize-flour made to it every 
 morning. The deity is often decorated with small hoes, knives, 
 fetiche-irons, all the manufacture of Tubal Cain or his assistants. 
 The price of a hoe M-ith a blade six inches square, is two heads of 
 cowries ; and when we consider that a week's labour is expended 
 upon its production, it is by no means exorbitant. 
 
 Immediately beyond the blacksmithery is the quarter called the 
 Abo-kho-nun, the old wall-gate, from the circumstance that here 
 was the entrance to the old town which was taken by the Ffons 
 Avhen they conquered the country. Agajah had it removed 
 further afield and rebuilt on the old model. We shall presently 
 pass through it. Near this smittery are the houses of the two 
 great field-marshals of the Dahoman army, situated on the edge 
 of a square called the Gaou-hwc-gudoh, on the eastern side of 
 which are two batteries containing about seventy aged cannon, 
 utterly useless except to blow their artillerymen to pieces. On 
 the right is the residence of the Kposu, and opposite is that of 
 the Gaou. 
 
 Passing between these " Horse Guards," we entered a small 
 market-place, the Agbonunkhi, where a few eatables were 
 exposed for sale, and returning the salute of the guards sta- 
 tioned in little sheds on cither side of the way, under the command 
 of the Dosumwen, we dismounted at the Abomey gate par ex- 
 cellence. 
 
 The Ffon word "Aho" or "Afjbo," means "a gate," or rather "a 
 town wall with gates in it" ; and the preposition "men^' signifies 
 "within." Abomen,or Abomey, as we call it, means therefore "(the 
 town) within the gates." This is literally true, for it is not a walled 
 town, the Abo being a repetition of the Akochyon gate leading on 
 to the Uhunglo market — a mud wall eighty yards long pierced 
 with two gaps, the one on the right as you pass out, for the king, 
 and the other for the people. A hurdle-like screen closes the 
 royal entrance, and a like protection is said to be placed across 
 the other gate at night, but I never saw it. The sides of the gaps 
 were well ornamented with skulls and other human bones, Mnth a
 
 CHAP. XIX. "GOLGOTHA." 389 
 
 multitude of indescribable fetiche cliarm?, while a Bo-fctiche 
 figure on each side guarded the entrance. 
 
 Hats off was the rule as we passed through this ancient portal, 
 beyond which was a shallow ditch bridged by two tree trunks 
 well worn by the passage of the feet of travellers. The royal 
 entrance was reached by a mound thrown across the ditch, which 
 extended round the town, but was, as usual, choked with weeds. 
 
 A singular custom prevailed respecting this bridge. The tree 
 trunks are very shppery and inclined at a considerable gradient. 
 If any person slipped off into the ditch he invariably lost his 
 head, which was fixed up to the outside of the gate, and we saw 
 nine of these grinning mementoes of mortality nailed to the 
 swish. 
 
 Immediately adjoining this gate, which leads out upon the 
 Kana road, the thick acacia hedge commences which surrounds 
 the town, growing on each side of the moat. This is known as 
 the Zun, and is left for defence, a natural fortification common to 
 many to\\Tis in "West Africa. It would appear to be practically 
 impassable ; but, after the experience of the Roue company, its 
 invulnerability is questionable. The road leads about seventy 
 yards outside this hedge, the intervening space being kept clear 
 of weeds ; as otherwise, when the grass is burnt before the rains, 
 the Zun would run a considerable risk of being set on fire. At 
 the time we passed, the acacias were in flower, their fragrant 
 white blossoms reminding me of the shrubs growing by the side of 
 some of the carriage- drives of English houses. Turning to the 
 right, we passed along the outside of the enceinte. 
 
 Five minutes' walk brought us to the " Golgotha," I was going 
 to say, but that term is hardly appropriate to the place where 
 the headless corpses of the \ictims are dragged. A narrow path 
 led through the Zun into the ditch, where hundreds of human 
 skeletons lay bleaching in the sun. All bore e\Tident traces of 
 the horrid work of the hyenas, and on the left several vultures 
 were busily engaged on the recent additions to this fearful 
 Aceldama. This was the place whence the unearthly laughter
 
 390 THE SIX KWATX TUSTOM. CHAP. xix. 
 
 and Satanic growls proceeded that had so often disturbed mc in 
 the midnitiht watches. The tracks of numerous animals were 
 well marked in the soft earth, and after nightfall no person will 
 pass along this via dolorosa, for fear of furnishing a meal to the 
 ferce natitrce who prowl about. 
 
 Beyond this unhallo^yed spot, at a distance of about half a 
 mile, we passed the country residence of the Adoncjan, Ghugalah's 
 father, which was the usual dwelling of his mother and of his 
 royal sisters. Passing this we soon after came out upon the 
 main road near the fetiche-guarded entrance to the Coomassio 
 quarter by wdiich we had entered the capital. A walk of a 
 quarter of an hour then brought us to our quarters, where a 
 great palaver had to be settled. 
 
 It appears that there had been considerable difficulty in settling 
 the disputes among the hammock-men and porters as to the 
 division of the rum and provisions sent from the palace. Last 
 night the haggling culminated in a fight, and Amoosu had sent 
 the ringleaders to jail. 
 
 On arrival this evening, the i)alaver was to be tried, and the 
 culprits were brought before Amoosu with their hands tied behind 
 them. After giving them a severe reprimand, he condemned 
 each of the nine delinquents to have two sticks broken across 
 their backs, and the sentence was carried out on the spot, after 
 which the criminals came and hegged my ^mrdon for duinrh- 
 ing me. 
 
 THE FIRST SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 The Custom of "Watering the Kings' Spirits, which was now 
 about to commence, usually follows the So Sin, but upon this 
 occasion the Attoh intervened. The So Sin and Attoh Customs 
 are a general Custom for all the king's ancestors, especially for the 
 father of the reigning monarch. Ilence the Gezoyeho in the 
 Uhon-nukon, and the frequent songs in that monarch's honour. 
 Tn the Sin Kwain Custom, which was instituted by Agaja, the
 
 CHAP. XIX. COMMENCEMENT OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 391 
 
 Iving visits cacli of the graves of his ancestors seriatim, usually 
 sleejiing four or five days in the palace of each of the seven 
 predecessors of Gezu. The spirits of the deceased monarchs are 
 invoked and solicited to lend their aid to the living representa- 
 tive, by the sacrifice of men and animals, whoso blood is sprinkled 
 not upon the tombs, but upon the mysterious fetiche-irons which 
 are swathed in calico envelopes and guarded in the spirit-houses 
 of each of the kings. The human sacrifices upon these occasions 
 were formerly very numerous, but under the milder reign of 
 Gezu the number was reduced to two. 
 
 In consequence of the performance of the Attijli Custom, the 
 king slept one night only in each palace, generally passing from 
 one to the other at night time with the usual pageant. The 
 Custom commenced on November 8th, by the king proceeding 
 to the old Dahoman palace to the north-west of the Abomey 
 enceinte, accompanied by all his Amazonian guards firing, dancing, 
 singing, and playing "music" (?). 
 
 About noon we started for the scene, and, after passing through 
 the square opposite the Agrim-go-mcn and the Han-ho-nukonji 
 gate of Mpengula, we continued our march along the side of the 
 palace wall through the Kechi market-place. Turning short 
 round one of the angles of the palace, we came upon another gate, 
 the Patinsa, where the palace of Aho is situated. Beyond this, 
 at the north-western angle, is the postern sacred to Adono, Agajah's 
 mother, the columns supporting the Pvve-shed being chequered 
 black and white. A little beyond is the gate of Hunajileh, 
 ]Mpengula's (Sinmenkpen) mother. 
 
 Leaving this to the left, we struck off to the old Dahoman 
 palace, opposite which is the residence of the Ningan, occupied 
 by that officer when the court is in Abomey. The usual gaol was 
 annexed to the ministerial palace, the tall swish walls being 
 armed with a chevaux-de-frize of sharpened spikes, and the 
 compound, as usual, well filled. This gate is known as Adan- 
 glacordeh, which is called Dunge-le-cordeh by Forbes, and which 
 Burton erroneously places in the Abomey palace.
 
 392 
 
 THE SIX KWAIX CUSTOM. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 After Leing announced by Amoosu, wo passed through the 
 courtyard behind the Pwe-shed, and entered a second enclosure 
 through a gate on the left. This courtyard is called the Ago- 
 do-men, and contains the tombs of the first three kings of the 
 empiie, Daho, Alio, and Akabali. These are situated on the 
 left, and consist of three low circular walls covered with a high- 
 pitched conical roof. The walls were whitewashed, and a low 
 door was just visible beneath the projecting cones. Aho, the 
 
 iUilli.-) (Jf UAIIO, Alio, AND AKABAU. 
 
 first king, had his tomb in the centre ; on his left was Akabah's 
 sepulchre, while Daho reposed on the right. 
 
 The summit of Aho's tomb was crowned by a silver ornament 
 representing aif umbrella with fetiche ornaments suspended from 
 the lappets by silver chains. On the top of this, supported by a 
 tall stand, was a silver cock. Daho's tomb was likewise decorated 
 A\ ith a similar ornament. The apex of the mausoleum of Akabah 
 was crowned by a silver wheel placed horizontally, with a silver
 
 riiAP. XIX. TOMBS OF Alio, DAHO, AND AKABAII. 39.'] 
 
 affair like an elongated acorn rising from the axle ; on the top 
 («f this, the umbrella-shaped ornament upbore a third silver 
 chanticleer. Over each door the thatch was cut back, and a 
 miniature josusu gallows erected before it. 
 
 Encircling each of these tombs, with a gap on each side, was a 
 mound of swish with a little conical heap at the ends of each 
 segment. The mounds were stuck full of skulls, and the heaps 
 were crowned with a pile of human thigh bones. On one side 
 of Akabah's tomb was an inverted neptune, or brass pan, and 
 several blood-stained sob we were scattered about. 
 
 At a distance of three yards before each of these, a fetiche- 
 asen of enormous size was fixed, swathed in a multitude of cloths. 
 These are supposed to be the spirits of the three kings, and they 
 are the fetiches which are sprinkled with Nesu water and blood 
 during the Custom. 
 
 Opposite the gateway leading into the courtyard a long shed 
 extended across the western side. The walls were whitewashed 
 and pierced with square holes, generally arranged in quincunx 
 like those on the side of an English barn. In the centre a 
 green and white cloth was spread over the thatch, indicating the 
 position of the king, who reclined on the usual sofa ; a verandah 
 of showy umbrellas rendering his person almost invisible by 
 reason of the deep shadow. The Amazons were squatting under 
 the barn, but in consequence of the walls but few could be seen 
 except those in the immediate neighbourhood of the king. 
 
 The three brass-mounted calvaria) and fourteen ncptuncs of 
 skulls were set out in front of the royal seat ; and near the 
 fetiche spirit-irons the Tansino and Rassajeh were seated in 
 mysterious silence under tattered umbrellas. Round the swathed 
 fetiches a group of women were squatting, waving bundles of 
 small rods, like butchers' fly-besoms, with the idea of driving 
 away evil spirits. 
 
 A long palaver was under weigh as we entered respecting the 
 capture of Abeokeuta, each war-captain giving his opinion as to 
 the better plan of assault.
 
 394 TEE SIX KWAIX CUSTOM. chap. xix. 
 
 A loud ting-tanf^ from a monstrous goiig-goug and cries of 
 Ahgo ! and a general movement among the asscmLly, the rear- 
 most standing up, betokened tlic advent of some ceremony of 
 unusual interest. 
 
 The kino: tlicn rose from Lis couch and came from under the 
 umbrellas into the open. The Bassajeh, escorted by the Tansino, 
 then slowly approached the king, silver horns being blown in a 
 diminuendo style. The king took each of the Bessajeh by 
 the hands, and raising them to a level with their faces, in this 
 way shook hands with his deceased ancestors. The eight Bassajeh 
 joined thcii' hands one above the other, and Gelele grasping 
 their upper and undermost hands in his own, swore that Abeokeuta 
 must be taken this year. He then held a long conversation with 
 his ancestors in a low voice, and finally, again shaking hands all 
 round, the Bassajeh retired, and a similar performance was gone 
 through with the Tansino. 
 
 Rum, cowries, and cloth were then dashed to the deceased 
 monarchs through the medium of the Bassajeh ; and the Tan- 
 sino had a similar present on behalf of the mothers of the old 
 kings. 
 
 The effect of the king's bounty was to open the mouths of 
 the priestesses, who delivered the answers of their indwelling 
 king-spinits in an oracular manner. They said that the king 
 must go to Abeokeuta and take it, assuring him of their aid in 
 the matter. He would be successful this time, and then he and 
 his people could rest and make plenty of trade. During this 
 ceremony the greatest excitement prevailed amongst the audience, 
 all speaking in whispers and silently throwing themselves flat on 
 the ground after their manner of praying for the king. 
 
 When the spirit-wives had retired, the Amazonian captains 
 made several speeches, accompanying their words by violent 
 gestures, Abeokeuta being as usual the theme. 
 
 A number of old men, superannuated privates in the army, 
 then received presents of cloth, cowries, and rum. The Kpofensu, 
 or head-jester, watched his opportunity and stole a bottle of rum
 
 CHAP. XTX. VICTDTS FOR TTTE FIRST THREE KINGS. ?,9r, 
 
 from one of the uged soldiers, and, going to the front, com- 
 menced to drink it with every sign of the enjoyment and reliyh 
 generally said to appertain to stolen fruit. This petty larceny 
 heing one of the peculiar offices attached to his position, a roar of 
 laughter went through the court. Kpofensu then got up and 
 gave the audience the henefit of his life-history. Ho said that 
 Agajah, the fourth king, bought some brass blunderbusses, and 
 formed with them the renowned company of Agbaraya. The 
 grandfather of the present Kpofensu was placed over these as 
 colonel, and under his command they achieved many glorious 
 victories. " Kpofensu when at war fights like a lion, but when 
 at Abomey he dresses in rags and whitens himself and then steals, 
 smokes, dances, and whistles before the king," suiting the action 
 to each word. 
 
 THE SECOND SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 The next day we proceeded to the Dahoman palace to witness 
 the concluding ceremony of the Sin Kwain for the first three 
 kings of the Empire. 
 
 On our arrival the Ko-si, or public women, were playing their 
 peculiar Addugba drum, and singing the history of the three 
 kings, who were buried within the precincts of the palace. 
 The Ko-si for the inside occasionally relieved their " outer " 
 brethren, and then both parties danced to the music of two 
 flageolets. 
 
 The Tansino and Bassajeh then set up a monotonous chant, 
 and three gagged and bound criminals, two bullocks, four goats, 
 one sheep, and several ducks, fowls, pigeons, an alligator, three 
 cats, and a number of small parrots, together with several bottles 
 of rum, Bagwe pots with Nesu water and a large quantity of 
 fruit and cooked provisions, were brought in. The king, dressed 
 in fetiche costume, with his face blackened, and wearing a white 
 cloth tied round his head, having a very different appearance 
 from that he usually presented, came out from the Pwe-shed, 
 
 4
 
 396 TKE SIX KWAIN CUSTOM. CIIAP. xix. 
 
 find approached the three sacred irons, which were unswathed 
 and a trench about a foot deep dug round each. The Bassajeh 
 then raised their hands above their heads, and king, lords, and 
 commons went down on all fours, while we bowed our heads. 
 The Agasunno then prayed to the ghosts of Daho, Aho, and 
 Akabah that they would bless the laboui-s of their descendant, 
 and give him long life, success in his wars, and would confound 
 his enemies. 
 
 The rum and Nesu water were then splashed over the irons by 
 the priestesses, who uttered a kind of wail which rose and fell in 
 measured cadence. The three human victims were then brought 
 to the front, and the two nearest the king released, while the 
 tliird was decapitated by the Agasunno, and his blood sprinkled 
 upon the fetiche-irons. Then followed a wholesale butchery of 
 the various animals, until the ground in the neighbourhood of the 
 Asen was literally a sanguinary swamp. 
 
 Three tables were then brought out and set before the three 
 fetiche-irons, upon which the cooked provisions and fruit were set 
 out, and the feast of the deceased monarchs commenced. 
 
 A small fetiche-iron to the extreme left was next uncovered, 
 and a few fowls sacrificed to it after the rum and water had 
 been poured over it. This was the spirit of Chai, Tcgbwesun's 
 mother. 
 
 After this, other provisions were brought out and distributed to 
 the ministers and privates, the strangers and ourselves coming in 
 for a share with the rest. 
 
 A song and the discharge of nine muskets brought this san- 
 guinary rite to a conclusion. 
 
 We set out for our quarters by the western route, leaving the 
 gate of Ilunajileh on the left. A short walk brought us to the 
 Ajahi market-place, whose market-day precedes that at the 
 Uhunglo, near the Coomassie palace. In this quarter the clay- 
 pits which furnish the material fr'om which the native pottery is 
 made, arc situated, the manufacture being cliiefly in the hands 
 of the Amazons. We were then brought up by the passage of a
 
 CHAP. XIX. THE GATES OF THE KINGS' MOTHERS. ?,d7 
 
 long string of Amazonian water-carriers, who wore bringing in a 
 supply from the Nyassa pits. 
 
 After they had passed we came to the gate of Tegbwesun's 
 mother, Chai, principally distinguished by the number of fetiche- 
 pots surrounding it. Beyond it is the portal of the mother of 
 Gezu, Agotime, with an ornament of eight skulls on either side 
 of the doorway, and a collection of bones at the foot, while a 
 very dilapidated skull was nailed to the centre of the rude wooden 
 door. 
 
 Near it is Senune's gate, the mother of Agongolu, with a 
 mound on each side, capped with a chaplet of skulls and a pile of 
 bones. After another interruption from the royal aquarise, we came 
 to a gap in the swish wall of the palace, closed with matting and 
 bamboo trellis- work, similar to that of which the houses of the 
 Mpongwes on the Gaboon are built. On the death of Zoindi, 
 Gelele's mother, this gate will be finished and called after her. 
 At present a mere postern, with a door of matting, is all that is 
 to be seen. "VVe were then at the north-western angle of the 
 palace, and, turning sharp to the left, passed along the western 
 wall or enceinte, containing one gate only, the Nukuson, and came 
 out near the Akochyo gate, thus completing the circuit of the 
 Abomey palace. A walk through the Uhunglo market soon 
 brought us to our quarters ; and leaving Amoosu to divide the 
 savoury viands we had received at the palace, I wrote up my 
 journal, a matter which ought never to be postponed until the 
 fresh impressions on the mind are clouded or erased by new 
 events. 
 
 THE THIRD SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 We started at midday on November the 10th for Agriin- 
 go-men, the gate of Agajah's palace in Abomey. On reaching the 
 gate we waited under one of the umbrella-trees opposite the 
 portal, while Amoosu went in and announced our arrival to the 
 king. The outside of the gate is ornamented with pieces of 
 wood, bearing a considerable resemblance to horse-shoes, and
 
 398 THE SIN KWAIX CUSTOM. chap. xix. 
 
 the remnants of forty-six crania are still to be seen upon it. 
 A pile of elephant's bones, trophies from Mahi, is heaped before 
 it, and the usual Bo-fetiche altars are erected outside the Pwc- 
 shed. 
 
 On being summoned to the inside we passed through the dim 
 portal into a long shed, e\idently used as a kind of lumber-room, 
 beyond which is a long passage, turning abruptly to the left and 
 nearly pitch dark, having no windows in the walls. This led us to a 
 large Notoh, containing the wrecks of several of the royal coaches, 
 di'awn up to the right, together with a number of sedan-chairs 
 and other relics of the " good old times," when such presents 
 were made to the king by the slave-dealers. Passing through 
 this courtyard to a gate opposite, we entered a second Pwc- 
 shed, where a perfect museum of worn-out fetiche deities, wooden 
 images, and what-not was stored up. Two massive wooden doors, 
 covered with fetiche charms, closed the portal, and, on being ad- 
 mitted by the janitors, we entered the presence. 
 
 On the left we discovered a long whitewashed barn, whose 
 sides were ornamented Avitli rude figures of men, animals, and 
 inanimate objects in relief. Underneath this the Amazonian 
 cohorts were assembled, peeping through the loop-holes, which 
 were the only windows in the wall. Opposite us, separated from 
 the Amazons' shed, was a similar building, the walls being stained 
 in broad stripes of red, white, and brown. A gorgeous cloth> 
 spread over the roof, and three umbrellas, marked the kiiig's 
 seat, the captainesses and Dahkros being seated on either side. 
 Immediately opposite the king was the mausoleum, containing 
 the ashes of four kings — Agajah,Tegbwcsun, ]\Ipengula, and Agon- 
 golu. The tomb was a long barn with a high-pitched roof. On 
 the ridge were four silver ornaments belonging to the respective 
 monarchs. 
 
 To the left was the monument of Agajah — a silver cock stand- 
 ing on a globe, supported by an Asen which rose from the centre 
 of a silver wheel, from the circumference of which four fetiche 
 hearts of silver were suspended by chains. The wheel rested
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 TOMBS OF FOUR KINGS. 
 
 399 
 
 upon the top of an extinguisher surmounting a skull, all being 
 "wrought out of silver dollars. 
 
 The next ornament was that of Tegbwesun — a silver acorn, sup- 
 porting a wheel and skull, on the top of which was a silver tree 
 with two straggling branches, each supporting a cock. 
 
 To the right of this was a peculiar double-globed cylinder, 
 supporting a silver coronet, from the lower edge of which silver 
 hearts were hung. Above this, surrounding the top of the 
 
 TOMBS OF AOAJAH, TEGBWESUN, MI'ENOULA, AND AGONOOLU. 
 
 cylinder, was a circlet of knobbed ogoh, and on the apex a 
 man with his left arm akimbo brandished a sword in his right. 
 This was Mpengula's ornament. 
 
 On the extreme right was the elaborate monument belonging 
 to King Agongolu. Two silver soldiers, anncd ^Wth guns, 
 supported on their heads a square framework hung with silver 
 hearts. Above this two other soldiers bore a smaller framework, 
 on the top of which two Dahoman warriors stood in warlike
 
 4U0 THE SIX KWAIX CUSTOM. chap. xix. 
 
 attitudes. Through the centre, a tall cylinder with glohc-likc 
 ornaments helped the soldiers to support the frames. The whole 
 of this elahorate affair was of silver, and ahout four feet high. The 
 hearts swung ahout in the wind, and chinked together with a 
 peculiar tinkle, and the polished silver glittered in the sun, 
 showing that these valuables were only set up upon state 
 occasions. 
 
 The entrance to the tomb was beneath the ornament of Agajah ; 
 a mere gap in the wall and thatch, before which a royal umbrella, 
 a fetiche ditto, and a large parasol of crimson and white silk were 
 set up. A group of Amazons surrounded the portal waving 
 their besoms, to " drive the devil away." In front, and to the 
 right, was a long mound ornamented with human crania, and 
 numerous heaps of human bones were scattered about. Between 
 the heaps and the tomb was a small conical' thatched shed, sup- 
 posed to contain the spirit of King Agajah. It was surmounted 
 by a peculiar brass ornament like a broad arrow. 
 
 On the right was a large conical shed ^"ith a brass ornament 
 on the top, representing a cresset with branches gro-wang out of it. 
 This was the tomb of Adono, Chai, Hunajileh, and Senune, 
 the mothers of the four monarchs. 
 
 The Adugdoh and the Kosi were busily engaged in singing 
 historical ballads. On my entrance, one of them explained, 
 that whereas the old kings fought and conquered many people 
 and built fine palaces, yet Gelcle did better than them all, for 
 he was only going to break Abeokeuta, after which he wiU dash 
 plenty of cloth and rum, wives and slaves, to his people. He 
 had no rest day nor night ; yet, although he was so good a king, 
 his people did not fight strongly for him ; they must, therefore, 
 try and do better for so good a king in future wars. 
 
 This speech greatly pleased Gelele, who dashed four heads of 
 cowries to the bard. Other songs followed, both by the public 
 ladies, the Amazons, and "outsiders," During this ceremony 
 I received permission from the king to approach the tomb and 
 make a sketch of it, with A\hich the king was highly delighted.
 
 CHAP. jcix. REVIEW OF AGAJAII'S VICTIMS. 401 
 
 pointing out the several ornaments as depicted on the paper, to 
 his royal vdves. 
 
 One of the Dahkros was sent with some message to the inside, 
 and returned, requesting the king to repeat it, as she had for- 
 gotten it. This roused Gelele's ire, and the memory of the 
 Dahkro was refreshed by one of the Dahkro captains, who 
 belaboured the poor creature with a stick, until she thought 
 discretion the better part of valour, and ran away, followed by 
 the fat old captainess, who waddled like a duck in the vain 
 endeavour to catch the offender. I should have mentioned that 
 during this Custom the officers wore long Mohammedan gowns 
 of various coloured cloth, with the double " consciences " on 
 them. Kpofensu and his company got into a scrape for not 
 executing some trivial command of the king, and were brought 
 up to the front, where they raised a little sandstorm by their 
 vigorous dirt shovelling. The Ajakyaho and his myrmidons 
 carried out the sentence passed upon them by boxing their ears, 
 just as a child is punished at home ; the abject submission of the 
 men being pitiable to see. 
 
 After this palaver a crafty merchant was brought up for trial, 
 accused of obtaining goods on credit from the factory at Godome, 
 in the name of the king. He was sentenced to have forty-six 
 rods broken over his back, and to have his house broken by the 
 Donpwe. As this was Custom time for the spirits, his punish- 
 ment was deferred until the conclusion of the Sin Kwain, he, in 
 the meanwhile, being consigned to the tender care of the 
 Ajakyaho. 
 
 The Tansino and Bassageh then came out, and the king held 
 communion with his ancestors, as at the Dahoman palace. 
 After this two Nago prisoners were brought in, together with a 
 miscellaneous collection of sacrifices similar to those for Aho and 
 his companion. 
 
 A long palaver ensued comparing the respective bravery of the 
 Amazons and the Men, and at its conclusion the Nago victims 
 were released and appointed as sweepers in the palace. The
 
 402 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. chap. xix. 
 
 baskets were then taken off to the right, down the narrow 
 passage between the king's shed and the Amazons' barn, followed 
 by the remaining animals for sacrifice. After this a procession of 
 nine stools, nine hammocks, nine flags, and nine swords marched 
 past, which were manufactured to show that Gelcle was the ninth 
 king in the Dahoman d}Tiasty. 
 
 We soon after left the palace, having begged to be excused 
 from attendance on the morrow to see the victims killed, as I 
 was suffering from an attack of fever.
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM— ico7itinucd). 
 
 The Fourth Section of the Sin Kwain Custom. — Visit to Tegbwesun's palace- 
 Custom respecting it — Sacrifice to that monarch — Maho trophy from 
 Kcnglo — Its history — Circuit of the northern enceinte on our return. 
 
 The Fifth Section of the Sin Kwain Custom.— Yisit to Mpengula's palace— Present 
 of " chop " to the king by the officers' wives— Mpengula's spirit-house— 
 Curious ape from Mahi — Offerings to Mpengula— Visit to the pottery. 
 
 The Sixth Section of the Sin Kivain Custom. — Visit to Agongolu's palace — 
 Weavers — Agongolu's spirit-house — Caught napping — River ants and 
 their habits. 
 
 Tlic Seventh Section of the Sin Kwain Cttstojn. — Sacrifice of a Nago for Agongolu 
 — Gezu's spirit-house — Sacrifice of three victims and conclusion of the Sin 
 Kwain Custom. 
 
 THE TOURTH SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 On the 12th we started soon after breakfast for the palace of 
 Tegbwesun, on the north-west of the Abomey palace. Passing 
 the old Dahoman mansion on the right, we came to an opening 
 in the enceinte, called the Abo-e-jaga (the gate through which 
 [the king] goes out.) We were then in the north-western suburb 
 rejoicing in the name of Adan-do-kpo-ji, and soon came to the 
 royal abode of Tegbwesun, encircled by the usual five-storied 
 swish wall. This palace is called Adandokpoji-Liseh hoonzeh. 
 
 When Tegbwesun had determined to build his palace, he fixed 
 upon this place, which had a grove of Liseh trees growing upon 
 it. These were cut down, with the exception of one, to which 
 human sacrifices were o£fered, it being one of the representatives 
 of Attin bodun. He therefore gave the palace the name which 
 it now bears, and which may be translated, " The brave (man's 
 
 D D 2
 
 404 THE SIN KWATN CUSTOM. CHAP. XX. 
 
 house) over the top of the hill of the blood-stained Lizeh 
 trees." 
 
 Upon our entrance Gelele arose from his reclining posture, and 
 bade us welcome to the old palace of his fathers, and asked me 
 to make a sketch of Tegbwesun's spirit house, which was situated 
 there. 
 
 This sacred abode was built on the left of the square court- 
 yard, and consists of an oblong shed, the roof being supported on 
 three sides by swish walls coloured red, while, and green. On 
 the red stripe to the right there was a white globe, representing 
 the sun, and on the left a crescent, obviously intended for the 
 sister luminary. The eaves were supported by tree logs, not very 
 straight, and a little raised earthen step ran before the entrance. 
 Within this gay temple we could sec the swathing cloths covering 
 the fetiche iron of Tegbwesun's spirit, with its custodians beating 
 off the dcAal with their besoms. In front of the temple was a 
 circular patch of chalked earth, in the centre of which an 
 umbrella was stuck. On the left a circle of twenty-two skulls 
 enclosed a similar whitened circle, with a single skull in the 
 middle. 
 
 A custom prevails respecting this palace for the caboceci'S 
 to watch all night at the gate. A number of the Kegcs being 
 more fond of their couches than their duty slipped away to their 
 houses, but Gelele, perhaps suspecting such a remission, sent 
 Benazon to inspect the officers in the middle of the night, and 
 the delinquents were discovered. The Ajakyaho was immediately 
 sent with orders to put the offenders in prison as soon as he 
 caught them. 
 
 On our arrival at the palace the prisoners were before the 
 court, two of the king's brothers and the Kposu figuring amongst 
 them. The king soundly rated them for their lax observance of 
 the laws, and said that a man, who, being set to guard the king's 
 gate, went to sleep or left it to visit his wife, ought to be severely 
 punished, as the enemy might come and take his guns from him, 
 and kill him, and afterwards come and take the king prisoner.
 
 CHAP. XX. THE KEXGLO TROPHY. 405 
 
 He told his brothers that if they did not humble themselves 
 before him, he would disrate them and make them sweepers in 
 his palace, and j)ut more deserving persons in their places ; since, 
 although they were his brothers, they were also his subjects. 
 The Amazons also lent their mite to the reprimand, and the 
 palaver lasted about an hour, after which they were sentenced to 
 be abused by the whole court. Every person in the court then 
 gave them the benefit of all the degrading epithets in the 
 Dahoman slang dictionary, and truly the langage des halles of the 
 native vocabulary aiforded ample scope. During their punish- 
 ment the culprits were throwing handfuls of dust over them- 
 selves, until they looked as if they had been buried and dug up 
 again. 
 
 The Tansino and Bassageh ceremony was then performed, and 
 three victims brought in, two of whom were spared. The 
 remaining portion of the ceremony was similar to that in the 
 Dahoman palace. 
 
 On our return we passed round the eastern side of the palace, 
 and crossed over the open space to the south-western extremity 
 of the wall which bounds the town on the north, forming a 
 crescent-shaped outwork. En route, we passed a heap of blocks 
 of granite, one of the national trophies. When Duncan paid a 
 visit to the Mahi tribes, he was insulted by the caboceer and 
 people of Kenglo, and on his return Gezu told Duncan that 
 when he came back again to Abomey he would see that Gezu 
 had brought Kenglo there to meet him. 
 
 The next year Gezu fell upon the Kenglo people, who, fearing 
 the vengeance of the Dahoman moiiarch, had piled up heaps of 
 stones on the top of the hill, upon which the town was built. 
 As the Dahomans had to climb the hill in the face of the 
 avalanche which was launched upon them by the Kenglo people 
 they suffered such heavy losses that they began to waver. Upon 
 this E-ah-weh, the English mother, with nine others went to the 
 other side of the hill and took the Kenglo people by surprise in 
 the rear. Thereupon a panic ensued, and the Dahomans rushing
 
 406 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. CHAP. xx. 
 
 up utterly routed the people, taking a great number of prisoners, 
 amongst whom was the king, Dansogeh. Gezu made them take 
 up the stones they had collected to throw down upon the Daho- 
 mans, and carry them to Abomey, where they were piled up in 
 a pyramid thirty feet high, with a side of about forty feet. 
 Dansogeh was then taken and placed before the Adanzan, near 
 the Coomassie palace, and the Dahoman army marched before 
 him to show him his presumptuous folly in insulting any friend 
 of so great a king. He was then beheaded, and his skull now 
 adorns one of Gezu's sword handles. 
 
 Passing through the gate leading to the Nyassa water and the 
 Didoh pits, called Alomablimenbonun, we turned to the right and 
 proceeded round the Zun hedge, which concealed the ditch before 
 the wall. In twenty minutes we arrived at another gate, the 
 Tohunbonun, a dilapidated postern leading to the north to a 
 village called Dokon, where is the country estate and palm oil 
 plantation of the Avogan. Turning to the right again we 
 continued our march, and soon afterwards came to the Abomey 
 gate and the Kana road, which we had before visited. On 
 passing the dreaded burial ground our hammockmen hurried 
 along to avoid the fearful stench. A number of vultures, 
 disturbed by our approach, took a few circles in the air, and 
 then settled down again to the horrid banquet. 
 
 THE FIFTH SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 The 13th was again a holiday to us, as we did not care to 
 witness the inhuman butchery at the palace, and on the 14th we 
 proceeded to Mpengula's palace, situated near Tegbwesun's, and 
 called Adandokpoji Haseh, or " the brave man's palace built on 
 the top of the hill of Haseh trees." Burton, on page 237, 
 vol. ii., confuses this with Tegbwesun's palace. 
 
 We again changed our route, so as to complete the circumam- 
 bulation of the tow^i, proceeding through the Uhunglo market 
 and the Kpogocji, where a small market is held purposely for 
 the sale of vegetables. We entered the Abomey enceinte by the
 
 CHAP. XX. CEREMONY AT MPENGULA'S PALACE. 407 
 
 Eyeosegbabonun, or the gate to commemorate the breaking of 
 the Eyeos, who, attacking Agajah and being repulsed, filled this 
 ditch with their dead bodies. Ten minutes beyond, surrounded 
 by plantations of cassava, is a fetiche-guarded swearing place or 
 Adangbnoten. Presently we came to the gate in the wall, 
 known as the Adandokpoji gate, leading to that quarter, guarded 
 by four blackened skulls and several magic charms. Beyond is 
 a small temple erected by Mpengula to contain the Nesu water, 
 and in ten minutes we arrived at the Men's house, opposite the 
 palace. 
 
 A splendid grove of palm oil trees stretched on our right hand, 
 part of which was fenced off by a line of grass rope, to allow a 
 safe passage for the Amazons, whose trains were continually 
 going and returning between the palace and Abomey. Soon 
 after our arrival all the prisoners from the Adonejan jail came 
 along, red as North American Indians, and all with their wrists 
 bound together. 
 
 On entering we passed through the first courtyard, where the 
 wives of all the caboceers were assembled with presents of cooked 
 food for the king, contained in calabashes wrapped in new cloths. 
 Passing through a second gallery, we entered the inner notoh, 
 where the court was being held. 
 
 The walls of this reception square were coloured dark brown, 
 with broad white stripes running parallel to the ground, and 
 were covered with paintings of men, birds, beasts, guns, &c., in 
 brown and yellow ochre. 
 
 Opposite the entrance was Mpcngula's spirit-house. 
 
 Thick pillars of swish supported the roof, the end ones being 
 whitewashed and decorated with blue horizontal lines upon their 
 front. The centre ones, which were rudely fashioned into 
 columns with capital and plinth, were also whitewashed and 
 ornamented with squares, diamonds, triangles, and other figures 
 in blue, scarlet, and black distemper. The front of the raised 
 floor was covered with white sand ; and within, the usual spirit- 
 si'uardians surrounded the cloth-covered Asen.
 
 408 THE SIN KWAIX CUSTOM. chap. XX. 
 
 To the right was a small conical shed, like a Lcgba temple, by 
 the side of which stood a table with several human bones spread 
 out upon it. 
 
 The king was seated to the left of this temple, and before him 
 were several huge baskets filled with kankie, which was after- 
 wards dashed to the soldiers. 
 
 Presently the wives of the caboceers marched in procession 
 before the king, delivering up their burdens to the Amazons, 
 who ranged them in a triple row behind the bamboo poles. 
 
 Various palavers were then brought upon the tajns and 
 discussed, during which a company of hunters, who had been 
 absent nine months in Mahi, brought in the semi-putrid body of 
 a large ape, neither a gorilla nor chimpanzee, with both of which 
 my experience in the Gaboon rendered me perfectly familiar. Is 
 it possible that there is yet another anthropomorphous animal to 
 be discovered ? I made every endeavour to get an examination 
 of the body, but it was at once handed over to the fetiche people, 
 who carried it off and destroyed it before I could get a chance 
 of a close inspection. 
 
 The jesters, who were dressed in brand new jackets of scarlet 
 blanketing, then perfonned various childish antics before the 
 king; after which the usual conference with the spirits completed 
 the ceremony. Three men were brought in, but happily were 
 all reprieved, and rated sweepers in the palace. After receiving 
 pass rum we left the presence and proceeded homewards through 
 the Abijeh, where a considerable quantity of the earthenware 
 used in the country is manufactured. The clay is impregnated 
 with manganese, giving a black colour to the pottery. It is 
 principally dug near the Didoh water pits, situated to the north- 
 east. "We then struck the road leading to the Tavosagbonun, or 
 gate of Tavosa, said to be the mother of Akabah, and a quarter of 
 an hour after entered the inner enwinie through the Agesi-bonun, 
 the gate of Agcsi, Aho's mother, the road from which leads to 
 the northern water pits. 
 
 Pursuing our way through crooked lanes, in great want of
 
 CHAP. XX. CEREMONY AT AGONGOLU'S PALACE. 409 
 
 an inspector of nuisances, we at length struck the Dahoman 
 palace, from whence the road home was well known to us. 
 
 We had now passed round the walls or rather hedge of 
 Abomey, and also the northern outwork. It will be seen that the 
 Dahoman palace contained the tomb and residence of the three 
 first kings of the empire ; while Abomey was the residence of 
 Agajah, and contained the tombs of Agajah, Tegbwesun, Mpengula, 
 and Agongolu. Gezu's tomb is also within its precincts, and 
 will be hereafter described. The custom of each king con- 
 structing a gate in this palatial residence for himself and one 
 for his mother also obtains ; the royal gates being on the north- 
 east and east, and south, while the gates of the kings' mothers 
 are on the north and north-west. 
 
 THE SIXTH SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 On the 16th we started for the Bwekon-hwe-gboh, the palace 
 of Agongolu, situated on the south-east of the Coomassie palace. 
 The name may be interpreted as meaning "the everlasting happy 
 king's big house," a singularly inappropriate title, for Agongolu 
 was the King John of Dahomey, being the most unfortunate of 
 her monarchs. Our way led us through the palm-bordered 
 approach to the Coomassie palace, leaving which by a sharp turn 
 to the right, we arrived at the Ncsu house for Agongolu, where 
 we awaited our summons to the inside. The TJhon-nukon was 
 occupied by several of the royal weavers, who were preparing the 
 warp for grass-cloths. Four sticks were fixed in the ground at 
 the angles of a large oblong, ancl the grass, which was very much 
 like phormiun or New Zealand flax, was tied to one of the sticks 
 and carried outside the others, forming three sides of the oblong. 
 
 One of the umbrella trees in the square was so covered 
 with cuckoo-spit insects that the sap exuding from their bodies 
 dropped on the ground in a continual shower like rain. 
 
 The Ningan made his appearance soon after our arrival, on 
 his way to the palace incog. : he having been very ill for the last 
 four days. On going inside, the Ko-si bards were in full song,
 
 410 THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. chap. xx. 
 
 accompanied by two jesters who brandished wooden swords with 
 the blades richly carved with figui-es of birds, men, and animals, 
 while the females waved circular brass fans. 
 
 The spirit-honse was on the right of the courtyard, of the 
 usual oblong shape ; the centres of the whitewashed pillars being 
 ornamented with a kind of rude tracery on the swish, above 
 which a green bird was painted. 
 
 The royal seat was in front of the entrance gate in the middle 
 of a long barn ; the usual bright-coloured cloth on the roof 
 marldng the position of royalty. The pillars in the neighbour- 
 hood of the king were bound round with blue cloth, and a 
 number of various coloured cloths formed a background to the 
 throne. 
 
 Nothing worth mentioning transpired during the seance — one 
 of the two victims being reprieved — except the fact that just as 
 we were about leaving, a number of soldiers were caught asleep 
 by the hunchbacked guards, and a palaver ensued which lasted 
 until 2 A.M. 
 
 It is said that the cowiies that are given to the Tansino and 
 Bassageh upon these occasions are taken from the stores left in 
 the palace by the deceased monarchs. 
 
 For several nights past we had been much annoyed by the 
 black driver ants. During the day, only a few stragglers are to 
 be seen, who appear to be scouts from the main army, on the 
 look-out for prey, to which they may lead their companions when 
 they sally forth at nightfall. The vanguard generally makes its 
 appearance about eleven o'clock, just when everybody is sound 
 asleep. The moment they arrive, the unfortunate sleeper who 
 happens to be in their path, is aroused by a sensation as if his 
 whole body were being pierced with red hot needles, the pain 
 increasing every moment. His only resource is to yield the 
 palm of \actory to his tormentors, and getting out of the way as 
 quickly as possible, to pick them off his body one by one. The 
 pain caused by their bite varies according to the nature of the 
 assailant. A soldier after firmly placing his legs so as to obtain
 
 CHAP. XX. DRIVER ANTS. 411 
 
 good foothold, grasps the flesh of his victim with his powerful 
 mandibles, and having once pierced the skin moves his jaws 
 with saw-like motion from side to side. With each stroke he 
 penetrates deeper into the flesh, and so eager is he in his thirst 
 for blood, that he will allow himself to be torn away, piece by 
 piece, rather than let go his hold. The heads and mandibles of 
 the soldiers are of enormous size compared with their bodies, and 
 the pain of their bite is excessive. 
 
 The workers seldom attack unless provoked, and their bite is 
 Hke the prick of a needle. Upon one occasion I observed them 
 attack a half dead rat. The soldiers first commenced operations 
 alone, swarming all over the body, and the malignity of their 
 bite was testified by the squeaks and writhings of the devoted 
 rat. When all the struggles were over, the workers came upon 
 the scene, and began cutting and tearing at the flesh, detaching 
 pieces of gigantic size, when we consider the comparative minute- 
 ness of the insect. These fragments were seized upon by the 
 workers below and carried off" to the nest. Hundreds of thousands 
 of ants were engaged in the work of destruction. 
 
 Their path was about an inch in breadth, perfectly smooth, all 
 the rough particles being removed to the side, where they formed 
 a bank about a third of an inch in height. Along this road the 
 ants were coming and going in countless myriads, the stragglers 
 being hurried back to the line of route by the soldiers stationed 
 at intervals, whose business seemed to be the preservation of 
 order and the protection of the workers. The approach of a 
 lighted lamp seemed in no way to disconcert them, but towards 
 morning they disappeared, except when the superiority or abund- 
 ance of the food held out an inducement for prolonged labour. 
 On such occasions they took every precaution against exposure to 
 sunlight, the shadow of a wall or tree being eagerly seized upon. 
 
 When the line of route necessarily crossed the open, as when 
 it came to a footpath, a bank was thrown up high enough to 
 shade the workers, or if the sun had long risen an arched tunnel 
 of sand was formed above the pathway. The broad glare of the
 
 412 TEE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. chap. xx. 
 
 sunshine was fatal to them, and after one of the tunnels was 
 destroyed, the ground in the vicinity was strewn with the bodies 
 of terror-stricken ants. Nothing seems exempt from their attacks. 
 Some birds in a cage, hung up against the wall of my house, were 
 attacked and Idllcd, fowls were often found dead and half 
 devoured, and a goat that was fastened up to a stake appealed to 
 us by its bleatings for release from its tormentors. 
 
 Scalding water stays their progress for an instant ; but so 
 countless are their numbers that though ten thousand be 
 destroyed, their places are at once filled up. Sometimes compact 
 masses containing millions are to be met with, generally in long 
 grass. These appear to be armies resting during the day, as, 
 when the sun is set, they may be found busily at work. 
 
 Often were we driven out of house and home by the armies of 
 drivers ; and I would any day sooner face a gorilla or a leopard 
 than suffer an attack of drivers. 
 
 THE SEVENTH SECTION OF THE SIN KWAIN CUSTOM. 
 
 On the 17th November a Nago captive was sacrificed to the 
 Manes of Agongolu ; and about midnight the king returned to 
 the Coomassic palace, amidst the hubbub of gun-firing, dancing, 
 and singing. As this was the last ceremony of the Sin Kwain, 
 we gladly repaired to the palace, and had sent in the announce- 
 ment of our arrival before noon. Passing through the Notoh, 
 where the " Procession of the king's wealth " was exhibited, we 
 arrived at a gateway, the door of which was adorned with the 
 wooden carving of a head. Beyond this, a narrow passage led 
 from the various apartments on the cast to those on the western 
 side of the palace. The wooden figures mounted on wheels were 
 here stored up beneath thatched sheds. Crossing this alley- way 
 we entered an inner court, within which was the spirit-house of 
 Gezu, Gclcle's father. This was an oblong edifice of twice the 
 size of the spirit-houses of the other kings. The whitewashed 
 pillars, which were deeply fretted, were covered with splendid 
 cloths of native manufacture, and the inner walls were also
 
 CHAP. XX. GEZU'S SPIEIT HOUSE. 413 
 
 covered with tapestry of a similar kind. The interior contained 
 a large fetiche calabash, or asen, before which an ottoman or 
 divan was covered with gaudy-coloured country cloths. The 
 front of the temple had a space two yards broad parted from the 
 rest of the courtyard by a row of skulls, with broken pieces of 
 pottery and stones between them, set in the swish which was 
 taken from the gates of the palaces wherein the heads of the 
 victims and messengers had been stuck. The roof was of thatch, 
 and down the centre hung a very creditable specimen of black- 
 smith's work. This was a brass apron, composed of forty rectan- 
 gular sheets of brass, each hinged to the others, the whole 
 covering a space of about six feet square. Each of the brass 
 sheets was embossed in a fanciful pattern, the general effect being 
 very beautiful. To the lower edge of the apron a row of seven 
 and thirty bells was attached by brass chains. The apron was 
 suspended by four chains, composed of flat pieces of brass 
 attached to an embossed ridge piece of the same metal, to the 
 top of which thirty-eight bells were attached. From the centre 
 of this brazen ridge-tile a brazen affair of a dumb-bell shape 
 supported a small coronet, from which hung four small brazen 
 human heads, and above this a large wheel supported eighteen 
 bells which tinkled in the wind with a weird music, which was 
 supposed to be Gezu's spirit calHng to his son. 
 
 The ceremonial was similar to that at the other palaces, except 
 that three victims were sacrificed, and the number of the animals 
 offered at the shrine was also increased. 
 
 This concluded the Sin-Kwain Custom for 1871, at which 
 seven human beings lost their lives.
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 THE ANLIN CUSTOM AND THE PAYMENT OF THE TRIBUTE. 
 
 TJie A nlin Custom. — Dance of princes — Ballet of Addokpon's company — 
 Akhosu's procession — His Amazonian procession — Addokpon's processions 
 for the Anlin — The " Lake of Blood " — Sacrifices for the Anlin custom, and 
 conclusion. 
 
 Tlic Payment of the Tribute. — Dance of princes — Payment of cowries by the 
 ministers — Fetiche ecstasy — A Dahoman box of Pandora— A drunken 
 deity — New fetiche irons and their consecration — Apotheosis of Gezu. 
 
 We had by this time given up all hopes of returning to 
 Whydah until the Annual Customs were over. From the 19th 
 to the 27th the king was employed in dismissing various regiments 
 who had been detained at the capital on account of the Custom ; 
 at intervals keeping up the public excitement by dances, and firing 
 at the gates of the Jezbeh palace, his owti private residence. 
 During this time the Gu-hoh or Gun Custom huts were repaired 
 between the king's palaces and Whydah. 
 
 On the 27th, I was sent for to the Coomassie southern Uhon- 
 nukon, where I found Hahansu and the princes of the blood 
 accompanied by a band, dancing round the Adanzan, brandishing 
 swords, and leaping like eastern dervishes. The Prince led the 
 way, not keeping in a direct line, but progressing in a series of 
 zigzag tackings from side to side. After him came Addokpon's 
 company, composed of the sons of the late king. After thrice 
 perambulating the square they formed a line opposite the Adanzan, 
 and danced for about an hour, when the usual signal of guns 
 and drums announced the arrival of the king in the western 
 Uhonnukon.
 
 riiAV. XXI. AKHOSU'S ANLIN PROCESSION. 415 
 
 The dancers then ceased their exertions, and we went to the 
 western square, where we found our umbrella set up on the 
 northern side, nearly opposite the spot where the princes Attoh 
 had formerly stood. 
 
 The king and his Amazons were seated beneath an umbrella 
 verandah at the Pwe shed, and soon after our arrival a body of 
 soldiers appeared, firing guns, dancing wildly, and singing. They 
 were followed by a troop of 103 men, carrying long poles, to the 
 ends of which ducks, fowls, alHgators, pigeons, cats, and birds of 
 every description were attached, together with bottles of rum and 
 strings of cowries. They were followed by others carrying 20 
 sheep, 14 goats, and 20 pigs, tied to baskets, while five Nago 
 prisoners of war brought up the rear. 
 
 After these came the priestesses, dressed in long grass sashes 
 and turbans, who danced before the king for about an hour, 
 their singular dresses forming a weird picture. 
 
 After them a similar procession of Amazons paraded, the place 
 of the doomed men being taken by a woman who was not tied 
 to a basket, but hoisted on the shoulders of a strapping Amazon. 
 She was gagged, and as the Amazons danced along, the two guards 
 on each side of her kept shaking her hands and inciting her to 
 dance ; a not very likely thing for a person to do in her fearful 
 position. This was the only time I ever saw a woman led out 
 for execution. 
 
 Then followed the princesses with grass accoutrements, who, 
 after perambulating the square three times, danced before the king 
 for about half an hour, and then retired to the left of the gate. 
 
 Addokpon's company then appeared, carrying a smaller assort- 
 ment of fowls, etc., and five other Nago captives. After their 
 dances they halted near the prince's company, and were followed 
 by the Bush king's Amazons, ^vith a second female victim, who 
 danced, and then retired to the right of the first Amazonian 
 company. 
 
 I was then summoned to the right of the Pwe shed, where I 
 found the following preparations made : —
 
 41f, 
 
 THE AXLIX CUSTOM. 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Two pits, about three feet square by three feet deep, had been 
 dug, the edges being protected by logs of wood. On the side of 
 one of them stood a small silver canoe, upon a small raised earth 
 step, and several Bo-fetiche images with their accompanjdng 
 irons were ranged around. 
 
 The princes then came up to the pit, ha\'ing the canoe opposite 
 to it, and commenced to decapitate the fowls, ducks, sheep, etc., 
 their necks being placed on the logs, and the blood allowed to run 
 
 THE LAKE OF BLOOD. 
 
 into the pit. One of the men was then brought up and his head 
 cut off by Ilahansu's executioner. Either the knife was very 
 blunt, or the man unnerved, — not a very likely thing, however, — 
 for the poor wretch was hacked about in a fearful manner before 
 the operation was completed, and my clothes were splashed all 
 over with the blood. The other victims were then beheaded. 
 
 Tlie Bush king's company were then taken to the other pit, 
 and a similar sacrifice offered, except that the captives, after the
 
 CHAP. XXI. THE LAKE OF BLOOD. 417 
 
 baskets were tilted on end ready for the fatal stroke, were re- 
 prieved by order of the king. While this butchery was going on to 
 the right, the Amazons were performing a similar office on their 
 side, but happily for the cause of humanity both the women were 
 spared. I never heard of a woman being decapitated as an 
 offering, although their fears were well worked up beforehand, 
 so that they suffered all the mental torment of an actual ex- 
 ecution. After this the princes danced round the square, and 
 afcH cVenfer from the soldiers brought this ceremony to a con- 
 clusion. 
 
 This is the Custom respecting which we were told in England 
 that " the king possessed an artificial lake, and during the Custom 
 he had so many persons killed that their blood filled the lake, 
 and the king stepping into a canoe paddled about the gory sea." 
 Exaggeration could scarcely go further, but this is only a single 
 instance of the tales we have been asked to believe of this 
 country. Ah uno cUsce omnes. 
 
 THE PAYMENT OF THE TRIBUTE. 
 
 The next day we went to the gate to see the' Payment of the 
 tribute by the caboceers. 
 
 On arrival at the western gate we found the king distributing 
 cloth and cowries to the outside and inside ministers. 
 
 The Tononun then arranged the sticks in a semi- circle roimd 
 the throne, and several heaps of cowries were placed at intervals 
 along the bamboos. 
 
 The princes then commenced a dance, which lasted for about 
 five minutes. The chief of the Donpwe then knelt down 
 behind the first heap of cowries, and placing his hands upon it 
 called out, " Ningan sends cowries to the king to help him make 
 Custom. lie has received many cowries from Gelele, so he must 
 return a portion." 
 
 The heads of cowries were then carried off by one of the 
 Amazons, and a ballet of five minutes' duration on the part of 
 the princesses followed ; when ]Mcu's tribute was announced, and 
 
 E E
 
 418 THE ANLIN CUSTOM. chap. xxi. 
 
 tliis nlternato dancing and paying tribute continued until nearly 
 sunset. It must be understood that tbe heap of cowries exhibited 
 in public is only a ^:>;'0 forma tribute, the actual payment being 
 made to the Benazon, and amounts to a considerable sum on the 
 part of the ministers, who nevertheless go down on all fours and 
 smother themselves with swish when offered a single string by 
 the sovereign. Besides the cowries, private douceurs were pre- 
 sented to the king, some being the veriest trifles, but, like the 
 widow's mite, valued more for the spirit with which they were 
 given than their intrinsic value. For instance, cankies, gun 
 flints, half a dozen strings of white beads, a few pipes, a knife, 
 trade looking-glass, packet of needles, a brass thimble, &c., were 
 all presented and duly announced ; the donor laieeling down and 
 dusting himself during the ceremony. The next day a similar 
 performance occupied the court until nearly four o'clock, when a 
 new fetiche rite was introduced. 
 
 " Ahgo " was sounded, and ever^^body seemed on the tiptoe of 
 expectation, the courtiers quietly rubbing swish on their foreheads 
 with their fingers. 
 
 Presently a band of Bukono appeared from behind the south- 
 western angle of the palace. They were clustered round a gii'l 
 apparently about eight years of age, who carried a calabash 
 ornamented with blood-stained cowries, besides being copiously 
 daubed with the sanguinary fluid. This girl was evidently in a 
 state of ecstasy similar to that state of clairvoyance which is 
 utilised by the " Spiritualists " for the delusion of their victims. 
 
 She reeled from side to side as though intoxicated, her eyes 
 ha'N'ing that peculiar vacant look which ever denotes an abnormal 
 action of the brain. Her attendants had considerable difiiculty 
 in keeping the calabash on her head as she staggered about all 
 over the square. 
 
 On the arrival of this cortege before the king, the Bukono 
 pushed the girl across the sticks, where she was met by the king, 
 who, assisted by some of the Tansino, endeavoured to keep the 
 calabash firmly upon the girl's head. After a prayer for the king
 
 CHAP. XXI. FETICHE ECSTASY. 419 
 
 had been offered by the Agasunno, the calabash was lifted off the 
 girl's head by the Tansino, the spirits appearing to be exorcised 
 by the removal, for shortly after the priestess recovered her 
 senses. 
 
 The Bukono then sang a song recounting the brave deeds of 
 the Dahoman monarchs, after which the Agasunno made a long 
 speech to the same effect. The king then brought a bottle of 
 rum, and cautiously raising the lid of the calabash, as though it 
 were a veritable box of Pandora, slipped the bottle under it. 
 The calabash was then lifted on the girl's head, who shortly after 
 commenced her wild actions, and the Bukono receiving her from 
 the king, conveyed her to the Abomey palace, whence she had 
 set out. This was said to be a fetiche ceremony introduced from 
 Mahe to prevent the de^^l from going about and inflicting the 
 small-pox upon the people. The deity is supposed to be contained 
 in the calabash, and the rum is stealthily introduced so as not to 
 allow him to escape. Upon perceiving the tempting offering, the 
 god applies to the rum bottle and gets drunk upon the contents, 
 when he is of course incapable of fulfilling his evil mission until 
 he is sober again. A quaint superstition ! 
 
 I Three large fetiche extinguisher irons Avere then brought out 
 and set up. They were made of iron, with brass ornaments upon 
 them. Gelele then came up and explained their use. He said 
 that if a man wished to prosper he prayed to his fetiche to help 
 him. Gezu prayed to his fetiche, and succeeded in eveiything he 
 attempted. Gezu himself was therefore the greatest fetiche of 
 them all, and the people must therefore pray to him. These 
 calabashes were made for him, and by praying to them he hoped 
 to be successful. 
 
 This speech was then repeated by the Men, and upon its con- 
 clusion all the people present commenced to throw themselves on 
 the ground, rolling over on their backs and muttering cries of 
 Borl ah, Borl, and other unintelligible nonsense ; that being the 
 national system of prayer. This speech of Gelele's was the 
 nearest approach to apotheosism I met with in the country.
 
 420 THE AXLIX CUSTOM. chap. xxi. 
 
 Prayers over, the king took a bottle of rum and poured out a 
 libation before the calabashes, thus consecrating them to his 
 service. After this several corps of Amazons came out and 
 danced, the ball being kept up until after midnight ; it would 
 perhaps have lasted until daylight had not a severe thunderstorm 
 dispersed the crowd. 
 
 The next day two other calabashes were dedicated to Gezu, 
 after which new guns were presented to the ministers, with 
 strict injunctions to use them in the capture of Abeokeuta.
 
 x/
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE AZAN-GBEH.— THE GUN CUSTOM. 
 
 Origin of this custom — Trial of defaulting soldiers — Speech of Gelele — Pro- 
 cession of captains — Jegbeh palace — Gelele' s spirit-house — AUegory of the 
 silver ornaments — Present of cowries to the people by the king's siiirit — 
 Splendid pavilion — Drinking the king's health —The firing to the palaces 
 from Jegbeh — Song of the Kosi-sacrifice to Gelele's familiar spirit — 
 Presents of " chop " — Allegory of the gun and hoe and of the frog and 
 pond calabashes— Distribution of daggers to the ministers— Firing for 
 Addokpon — Distribution of cowries — Procession of cowries— Ceremony of 
 breaking cankies — Horrible fetiche — Conclusion of the Annual Customs. 
 
 During tlie reign of Gezu the Great, the Chacha, wishing to 
 amuse the king with some novelty, conceived the idea of stationing 
 men at short distances along the road between Whydah and the 
 capital, and sending by them a present to the king, much in the 
 same manner as the post was conveyed in India. The idea so 
 tickled the fancy of Gezu, that he determined to inaugurate a 
 state ceremony of a similar character, and he instituted the sin- 
 gular telegraph which, among the English on the coast, is gener- 
 ally called the " Gun Custom." 
 
 At distances of about 250 yards huts cabled Guhoh were 
 erected, extending from the Avogan's palace and the English fort 
 at "VVhydah to the king's palace at Jegbeh, and from thence round 
 to all the palatial residences in the capital. We had passed the 
 ruins of these on our journey to Kana ; but those between that 
 town and the capital are always newly erected every year. 
 They were about ten feet square, with a thatched roof and a mat 
 verandah in front, supported by thin poles, and long fringes of 
 the thunder shrub, or " Savan," were festooned about them.
 
 422 THE GUN CUSTOM, chap. xxii. 
 
 They were open to the front and occupied by a couple of soldiers, 
 whose loaded guns rested in the crutch of forked twigs stuck in 
 the ground. 
 
 Similar structures were erected from Jcgbeh to Bwekon-hwe- 
 gbo, thence to Bwekon, Coomassie, Agriragomen, Patinsa, 
 Adangla-cordeh, Adandokpoji Liseh hoonzeh, and thence to 
 Adandopoji Haseh. 
 
 The ceremony is supposed to commemorate the king's birthday, 
 and is the concluding portion of the Annual Customs. 
 
 On the third of December Gelele left the Coomassie palace 
 about two A.M., and proceeded amidst the usual noisy display to 
 Jegbeh. About three in the afternoon I started for the court, 
 and arrived there after a walk of about half an hour. We halted 
 under the shade of a long shed, such as is used in England to 
 shelter waggons. Beneath were two long field-pieces, rusted 
 until they were useless, and mounted with wheels and trail-piece 
 of native workmanship. These were shown to me as wonderful 
 evidences of the royal wealth. Amoosu having announced our 
 arrival, we took up our seats amongst the crowd who were 
 already assembled before the Pwe shed to the proper right of the 
 gate. 
 
 A palaver of importance was going on, no less than the trial 
 of three soldiers for misdemeanour dui-ing the late skirmishing 
 in Mahi. It appears that one of these miscreants had gone to 
 fight without bullets ; the second had run away on the approach 
 of the enemy ; but the third was detected in drawing powder from 
 the royal stores, and then appearing on the field of battle without 
 this necessary article. 
 
 After a severe reprimand, they were sentenced to be broken by 
 the Donpwc and to receive a severe castigation. 
 
 This trial occupied so much valuable time that it was nearly 
 four o'clock before the real business of the day commenced. 
 
 A ballet of Amazons led ofi" the ceremonies, after which 
 Gelele explained to the lieges that this Custom was instituted 
 by Gezu, but that if any of his successors found that his exche-
 
 CHAP. XXII. CEREMONY AT JEGBEH. 423 
 
 quer was somewhat low, lie was at liberty to forego the Birth-day 
 commemoration. 
 
 He then went on to remark that as this had been an unusually 
 long Custom, the guns would not be fired to Whydah, but only 
 round the palaces — an ingenious excuse to hide the res angusta 
 domi. 
 
 He concluded by saying that the Custom would be opened by 
 the spreading of a table for Gezu at Jegbeh. 
 
 After this speech we were entertained with a procession of 
 the various captains, with their companies, who marched round 
 the square, firing their guns in rapid succession. As it was at 
 the time nearly dark, we could only distinguish the flashes of the 
 guns, which strongly reminded me of a number of squibs being 
 let off, for the powder was of the coarsest description, and the 
 greater part did not ignite until after it had left the barrel. 
 
 After this pyrotechnic display a song was struck up, but feeling 
 more inclined for eating than singing, we " asked leave," and 
 groped our way home, coming into violent colUsion with a train 
 of water-carriers opposite the Coomassie palace. 
 
 The next morning we were " anchored " off the Jegbeh palace 
 by eight o'clock, where we found a gang of labourers busily 
 engaged thatching an oblong swish building, which was destined 
 to enclose a scene of barbarous cruelty, reminding me of the 
 superstitious rites of the Cannibal Fans of the Remboe. 
 
 Dancing and singing was going on outside the palace, and we 
 began to think we had been summoned thus early to afford a 
 gazing stock to the rabble, when about nine we received the long 
 expected message requesting us to enter the palace, whose walls 
 were stuck full of cockle and oyster shells, and barbarous reliefs 
 in grey swish at intervals. 
 
 Passing through the first court, where some workmen were 
 busy erecting a pavilion, we entered the inner arena, where 
 all the snobs and nobs were assembled, dressed in long Houssa 
 robes. The courtyard was very extensive, more than three times 
 he size of any of the reception halls in the other palaces. The
 
 424 THE GUN CUSTOil. chap, xxii 
 
 walls of the Notoh were smoothly plastered and stained dark 
 chocolate, with a hroad central white stripe, ahovc which yellow 
 triangles were painted at intervals of ahout four yards. 
 
 Opposite the gate the spirit-house of the present king stood 
 cons^ncuously forward. It was similar in shape to those of the 
 other kings', but larger. The pillars were whitened and orna- 
 mented with blue fleur-de-lis and other designs. 
 
 Down the centre of the roof a splendid cloth of emerald green 
 and white velvet extended from ridge to eaves. On the top, at 
 either end, was a wooden carving representing a white dog 
 barking, supported on a black pedestal. 
 
 In the centre a very pretty design in silver, standing about 
 four feet high, was erected. A stately tree overshadowed an 
 antelope, accompanied by a young one, which was cropping the 
 tender shoots of the young twigs. In the branches of the tree 
 several birds were building their nests. 
 
 The allegory represented by this ornament is as follows. " Gezu 
 before he died gave this ornament to his son to place in his 
 palace, to remind him of his duties to his people. If we look in 
 the forest till we come to a full grown tree with wide-spreading 
 branches, we shaU find that the antelopes resort to it for its 
 pleasant shade, and the birds build their nests in it, knowing that 
 so stately a tree will not be thrown down by forest storms. The 
 Kingdom of Dahomey may be represented by the tree, to which 
 all nations resort for the protection afforded by its greatness. 
 Gelele being King of this Country, must be careful of its govern- 
 ment, otherwise the people wiU leave it, just as the birds leave a 
 tree which is not flouiishing and bearing plenty of fruit." 
 
 The courtyard was divided down the centre by a line of 
 bamboos, along the men's side of which a row of seventy-two 
 fetiche priests were sitting, with bundles of cowries before them. 
 
 In the centre of a crowd of Amazons, surrounded by the 
 Tansino and Bassageh, sat the king, clothed in white, with a 
 white skull-cap on his face, which was blackened with gun- 
 powder.
 
 CHAP. XXII. A PEESENT FEOM GELELE'S SPIEIT. 425 
 
 A band of female bards, dressed in deerskin aprons, witb red 
 edges, garnished with strings of cowries, then sang a weird 
 chorale respecting the virtues of the deceased monarchs. 
 
 Then the Amazon "beef eaters" in scarlet cloaks, emblazoned 
 with yellow lions, emulated the bards by their songs. 
 
 A movement among the caboceers then put us on the tapis, 
 and at the conclusion of the vocal entertainment, Afarigbe, one of 
 the king's brothers, stepped to the front and explained the 
 allegorical signification of the tree and antelope, and concluded 
 a very elaborate speech by informing his hearers that the cowries 
 they saw spread before them had been dashed by the king's 
 spirit to the people. I was then called to the bamboos, and 
 presented with ten heads of cowries, together with a couple of 
 flowered decanters of Brazilian rum. The strangers then received 
 rum and cowries, and the ministers approached to carry off their 
 ghostly presents, but during the ceremony a Dahkro came to 
 give us permission to retire for an hour to breakfast, which, 
 foreseeing a long seance, we had ordered to be brought to the 
 Meu's house at Jegbeh. 
 
 Within our allotted time we again arrived at the palace, where 
 we found the court adjourned to the outer notoh, the pavilion 
 in which was completed. 
 
 This was a splendid affair, at least as regards the roof, which 
 was covered with a white cloth, along the centre of which a 
 crimson plaid ran parallel to the eaves. Above and below this- 
 division were quaint figures of ships, with conspicuous poops and 
 prows, rigged with a single mast, and two triangular sails like jibs 
 set. Scarlet pennons were flying from the trucks, and beneath 
 the keel two stoekless anchors of blue baft were hung. Between 
 each of these were curious affairs which Beecham called "pillars 
 of salt." To me they appeared to be Christmas crackers resting 
 on scarlet muskets. These ornaments were constructed of 
 coloured cloth, and sewn on the white calico covering of the 
 pa^olion. 
 
 The pillars of this shed were swathed in crimson velvet ; and
 
 42G THE GUN CUSTOM. chap. xxii. 
 
 the back and sides were composed of gorgeous green, \dolet, blue, 
 iind crimson silks, satins, and damasks ; the richness of their 
 colouring being, however, lost in the shadow of the pavilion. 
 In the centre was the royal sofa, covered with a splendid patch- 
 work velvet cloth of many colours ; and a gorgeous umbrella, 
 of yellow velvet, with dark crimson birds, with emerald-green 
 necks, carrying blue guns in their black dexter claw, was set 
 up before the divan. We could also see the brass-legged 
 Louis Quatorze table, and the gold-braided cardinal's hat 
 upon it. 
 
 Other umbrellas, less gaudy, were ranged on either side of the 
 central one, beneath which the Amazonian guards waited the 
 approach of theii" Royal master. 
 
 Ranged at short intervals before the pavilion, and also in ront 
 of the ministers, were rude four-legged tables; and a series of 
 forked sticks laid in pairs, at intervals, were ready placed to 
 receive the guns of the warrioresses when they arrived on the 
 ground. 
 
 Kpofensu, conspicuous with circles of white chalk round his 
 eyes, looking like huge goggles, must necessarily have a table of 
 his own, a rickety affair of bamboo staves, beneath which he sat 
 grinning like an ape in a cage. All the ministers wore splendid 
 Houssa robes of every hue, and their silver and coral ornaments 
 glittered in the sunshine. 
 
 Presently the king came in, gorgeous in an emerald-green 
 xlamask robe, with a bright orange sash and drawers, while his 
 royal head was covered with a scarlet velvet fez. On his arrival 
 a deafening cheer went the round of the audience, and hqueurs 
 were produced on the brass-legged table, a Dahkro also bringing 
 a supply to us, with a message that the king wished to drink my 
 health. A glass of muscatel was then poured out, and I stood 
 up, while Gelele also rose and waited. The usual hubbub then 
 sot up, all turning their backs to the king, and after thrice bomng 
 to each other, we tossed off the bumper, and I sat down. I 
 found, however, that I had then to drink health with Addokpon
 
 CHAP. XXII. THE "GUN-FIEIXG" EOUND THE PALACES. 427 
 
 through the medium of Gelele, and a second toast was gone 
 through ; Beecham, who with the rest had his back turned to 
 the king, being in mortal fear lest I should offend the king. 
 During this ceremony guns were fired, and the cloth usually held 
 up before the king was so disposed that we could see each other, 
 while the royal person was obscured from the vulgar gaze. I at 
 last sat down, overpowered with this special mark of the Royal 
 favour, as even the Ningan and the Meu are not allowed to see 
 " the Hon " di-ink. 
 
 After Abeokeuta had been maligned, a number of soldieresses 
 came in and squatted down in pairs behind the forked sticks, in 
 which they rested their guns. 
 
 The king then drank the health of the people through the 
 medium of one of the Amazons, he himself bowing with the 
 black sombrero. 
 
 Loud cries of Ahgo ! nhlahoh ! then succeeded, and at a signal 
 the guns began to fire, running in a series of shai-p detonating 
 reports round the palace, then out to the soldiers stationed on the 
 road, and finally dying away in the distance. 
 
 Meanwhile the fetiche priests commenced to spin a slender 
 thread from a bunch of cotton fibre, and then Ningan began a 
 rambling speech respecting the wars of the monarch, throwing a 
 cowrie on the ground from time to time, as if he were counting 
 time, and such in fact he was doing. 
 
 The Klan entertained the company with their jestings, and at 
 intervals the Ningan was reHeved by an apostrophe by some 
 warrior emulous for fame. 
 
 In ten minutes the guns were heard returning, having been 
 taken up by the soldiers stationed around the various palaces. 
 
 The Kosi then commenced to sing a parable, as Beecham called 
 it. " When a man dies his spiiit will go into his descendants' 
 bodies, but not always into the sons. The king has asked Gezu's 
 spirit at Coomassie whose ghost it was that lived in himself, and 
 it was to this spirit that the king had been giving water." I 
 then learnt that during my absence a man and several animals
 
 428 THE GUN CUSTOII, cuAF. xxii. 
 
 had been sacrificed, and tlieir Llood sprinkled on tlie spirit 
 calabasli under tlie shed in the adjoining courtyard. 
 
 After this a band of gong-gong men with instruments of 
 highly poHshed brass and silver, both "outsiders" and "insiders," 
 entertained the company with a musical quartette, alternately 
 played by the men and the women. 
 
 A long train of slave women from the palace then came into 
 the presence, bearing calabashes of pro\'isions, which were set 
 out upon mats spread along the bamboos. The bill of fare was 
 very recherche. 
 
 Meanwhile cries were heard approaching from the distance, 
 and at last the gun firers stationed near us yelled out some 
 unintelligible war cry, and running towards their neighbour 
 received from him a parcel swathed in matting. This was a 
 present to the king from the Bwekon-hwe-gbo palace, which had 
 been passed from hand to hand by a number of runners stationed 
 along the road. At intervals similar parcels arrived from all the 
 palaces, and finally, just as the sun was setting, we received a 
 donation of " chop," consisting of all the delicacies of the season, 
 which our deUghted hammockmcn and porters eyed with watery 
 mouths. Just as we were leaving a Dahkro came to us bringing 
 a second supply of provisions, a special present from the king. 
 
 Our journey home was very speedy, the movements of the 
 hammockmcn being quickened by the thoughts of the glorious 
 "feed" they were going to have, and I could hear their 
 uproarious mii'th up to the small hours of the morning. 
 
 The next day the usual palavers occupied the first two hours of 
 the seance, after which two fetiche calabashes were brought in 
 and set up before the admiring eyes of the people. The first 
 consisted of the usual extinguisher-shaped cresset, with a long 
 stalked cover above it, upon which a silver ball rested. To the 
 iron rod supporting the cresset, a curious affair, a combination of 
 a gun and a hoe, stuck out at an angle with the upright. 
 
 The legend of this calabash was as follows : " Gezu invented 
 this calabash, and gave it to his son, and said, men must till
 
 AP. XXII. MOEE ALLEGORICAL CALABASHES. 429 
 
 ■ soil to raise food, but tliey have always plenty of war palaver 
 
 ing on, so that when a man went to work in his field he first 
 , . iked this way and that way to see if any enemies were in sight, 
 ;iv.(l then worked for a few minutes, and afterwards had another 
 I ok round. This was very bad, so he made this gun-hoe that 
 il the people when they went to work in the fields should have 
 ..xcir guns and hoes ready to hand. As soon as the report of 
 this went among the surrounding nations, they would be afraid 
 to attack the Dahomans, and consequently the country would 
 have peace." 
 
 " With regard to the ball at the top of the calabash, children 
 take balls, and putting some into one hand, ask their companions 
 how many they hold, and neither of the parties know what 
 number is in the hand until they look. So he (Gelcle) is the 
 ball which his father Gezu held in his hand during his life ; and 
 though every person knew that he would be king, until Gezu 
 died, and thus opened his hand, they did not know what sort of 
 king he would be." 
 
 The other calabasb was of the usual cresset shape, surrounded 
 by vertical hoops of iron, upon each of which a brass frog was 
 fixed. At the base, on two sides of the cresset, were models of 
 houses with a couple of guns on the eaves of the roofs. The 
 allegory in connection with this was as follows : " The cresset is a 
 pond about which there are numerous frogs. Whenever there is 
 water in a pond, the frogs in it are a proof of its sweetness ; 
 therefore a pond without frogs is not fit to drink. Dahomey is 
 a pond, and Gelele is the frog in it, without which the water 
 would spoil. The water being good, leopards, wolves, and other 
 animals come to it ; and although they do not permanently injure 
 the water, yet by stirring up the mud they render it unfit to 
 drink until the sediment is deposited. So men with guns must 
 be stationed to keep off these intruders, and the huts and guns 
 on the calabash are representative of the Dahoman soldiers." 
 
 The king then commenced dancing and playing solos on 
 drums of various kinds, amidst the deafening cheers of the
 
 430 THE GUN CUSTOM. CHAP. xxii. 
 
 crowd. A number of daggers "svitli silver mountings were then 
 brought out, and presented to the Ningan, the Meu, and a few of 
 the higher dignitaries. " Chop " in the meanwhile was being 
 brought in by the palace slaves and distributed to the various 
 companies. After this we were conducted to the Uhunnukon, 
 where a firing party was drawn up, but as we had by this time 
 had enough of royalt}', we " asked leave," and retired. 
 
 The next day firing round the palaces for Addokpon opened 
 the ceremonies, and after numerous palavers and dances, the 
 palace gates were closed and the crowd cleared to one side of the 
 courtyard. Cowries were then brought in by the Amazons and 
 placed near the bamboos, and the soldiers began to pass the king 
 in single file, his Majesty throwing a few strings across the neck 
 of each, as he bowed low on passing him. Four hours did this 
 crowd pass before him, and at length the upper ten came in 
 for their share, receiving two or three heads. Then came the 
 royal princes, Hahansu in the rear, and last of all the strangers, 
 I receiving four heads for my share, and the Governor a like 
 amount. 
 
 After this, singing, dancing, and speechifying went on till 
 dark. 
 
 On the 8th we went to the Jegbeh palace to see the conclusion 
 of the Gun Custom, and the soldiers passed for war. 
 
 The Amazonian generals, with their umbrellas, stools, &c., first 
 paraded round the building opposite the gate-shed, followed by 
 the Men's side. A firing party of each side then came on, and 
 wasted a considerable amount of the king's powder, but so long 
 as a noise is made it pleases the African. 
 
 After this " Ah go " was called, and the king made a speech, 
 telling the assembly that he was going to break canldes for war, 
 and that his fetiche men had made a powerful charm by which 
 he must inevitably break Abeokeuta this time. Our chairs were 
 then brought near the entrance to the building, which was newly 
 thatched, and which was a bake-house for cooking the cankies 
 which are broken before going to war.
 
 f i[AP. XXII. HORRIBLE FETICHE RITE, 431 
 
 The interior contained two immense ovens of the usual 
 1 obular-shaped earthenware, fixed in swish mounds, which 
 were liberally garnished with skulls. A row of Bo- fetiche 
 images, with a background of Asen, was placed in the rear of 
 the ovens ; but before them were a couple of most fearful objects. 
 Two stakes, about six feet long, had been driven into the earth, 
 and two Abeokeutan captives, after being killed by a blow on the 
 occiput, were impaled thereon. These were the omnipotent charms 
 which were to break Abeokeuta. I had seen impaling at Agoue 
 on the coast, but never heard of such a fearful punishment being 
 inflicted in Dahomey. 
 
 Gelele came to the bake-house, and took up his position at one 
 of the ovens. The Ningan then advanced, and Gelele taking one 
 of the cankies broke it in half, and gave one to the Ningan, and 
 the other to his representative on the women's side, the Gimdeme, 
 The Meu next came up, and he and the Akpadume received the 
 second cake between them, and in this manner the whole of the 
 officers for outside and inside received the war-cakes. 
 
 Gelele then made a speech, the gist of which was, that as the 
 cakes he had given them were eaten, the one part by the men, 
 and the other by the women, so they could never be joined 
 together again. Just in the same way must they break Abeokeuta, 
 so that the people might not be able to recover themselves, and 
 fight any more against Dahomey. 
 
 After this ceremony we retired to the gate, and witnessed the 
 dancing of a new company of Jotosi, and at last, amidst a volley 
 of guns, the Gun Custom of 1871 concluded.
 
 CHAPTER XXIIL 
 
 THE FIXAL LEVEE. 
 
 Private ^dsit to the king at Jegbeh— The king's wishes -with regard to the 
 ambassadors — I am passed at last — Presents from Gelele — The bullet 
 ceremony — I am created a prince — Visit to Gezu's tomb — Skull trophy — 
 Legends of the ornaments — Tombs of Gezu's mothers — Visit to the 
 Coomassie palace — Private apartments and state bedroom of the king — 
 Visit to the Benazon — A Dahoman bride — Native book-keeping — Hahansu"s 
 water sprinkling — His fetiche house — Grand farewell ceremony and 
 arrival at TMiydah. 
 
 Ox the 12tli, liaving been duly informed beforehand of what 
 was to come off, we started for the gate at Jegbeh, at an early- 
 hour, arriving there by seven o'clock. "We there found Hahansu 
 and his escort already awaiting our arrival, and soon after our 
 grey-haired Dahkro summoned us to the inside. Passing 
 through the low courtyards already described, we turned to the left 
 and entered a third, where we found the king sitting under a 
 long shed, with a single umbrella before him. The English land- 
 lady and his Leopard- wives surrounded him, with a few Dahkros. 
 Ilahansu was accompanied by his intei-preter, whese duty as 
 memory-assistant has already been described. 
 
 Gelele cordially shook hands Avith me, and introduced me to 
 his wives. He then opened the business by saying that he 
 wished me to ask the English government if they would commis- 
 sion me to conduct his ambassadors to England, for he very much 
 wished them to see that country, and return to Dahomey, and tell 
 the people what they saw there. If so, he might be able to put 
 down the executions, as Commodore Wilmot had asked him. The
 
 CHAP. XXIII. "PASSED" AT LAST. 433 
 
 English Government had wished him to send ambassadors before, 
 but he would not permit them to go with a person who did not 
 thoroughly understand the country. 
 
 He then entered upon another business, which policy will not 
 allow me to divulge, and concluded by saying that he was going 
 to create me a prince, and wished to know if I would be passed 
 then or the nest day. I had had enough of " next days," so 
 requested to be passed at once. 
 
 He then gave me 100 heads of cowries, and three new cloths of 
 native manufacture, worth nearly £50 a piece. These were 
 wrapped round me according to the usual custom, but as the sun 
 was blazing down upon me, I soon divested myself of their 
 cumbrous weight. He then gave me three young slave girls, and 
 a Hke number of boys, all natives of Salu. He said that I had 
 not yet seen Gezu's tomb, nor the interior of the palaces, but that 
 Hahansu should show me all before I left. The conversation 
 then turned upon various topics. He showed me the coat of mail 
 presented by Captain Burton, and told one of his wives to put it on. 
 He said the English must be very strong to fight with such a 
 weight upon them. Various other curiosities, such as a stereo- 
 scope ; watches, without main springs ; musical boxes, ditto, ditto ; 
 a binocular, given by Tojikhosu, as Commodore Wilmot is 
 called ; and other articles. 
 
 He then dismissed me, accompanying me to the gate, and said 
 that I was to dine with Hahansu, to whose house I proceeded. 
 In the afternoon, a few dances preceded the procession of the 
 outside and inside officers, who, passing before the king, took a 
 bullet out of a calabash, with which to kill an Abeokeutan, when 
 they went against that devoted town. 
 
 The next day we went to Jegbeh, to present compliments to 
 the king, and thank him for his trouble yesterday in passing us. 
 This is the usual custom. "VVe had another audience with his 
 Majesty, who requested me to inquire if the mahogany which 
 grows near the capital would be purchased in England. I told 
 him it would, but that unless they brought down a regular supply, 
 
 F F
 
 434 THE FIXAL LEYEE. CHAP, xxiil, 
 
 the mercliants would not trouble to come for it. The main 
 difficulty was the carriage to the coast. 
 
 After hreakfasting, we return to the palace, where the usual 
 dancing was going on. At length, Gelele announced, that as 
 Kerserley was his friend, as James, the governor of the English 
 fort, was for his father, so he must do him great honour. He had 
 made caboceers of some of his visitors, but that was not rank 
 sufficient for his friend. He, therefore, was going to make him a 
 caboceer "with the rank of a prince, and allow him to use the 
 royal bird on his umbrella. 
 
 The Ningan then went to the front, and called out "Kerserley," 
 to which I repHed " AVae," and went up to him, followed by 
 Beecham and Amoosu. The Amazons then brought in a ca- 
 boceer's stool and umbrella, and several calabashes, covered with 
 showy cloths. A scarlet and blue-striped country cloth was then 
 spread out before the people, and afterwards placed over me, toga 
 fashion. Next, an embroidered tunic of crimson, blue, green, 
 and yellow-striped cloth, of one of the royal patterns, was put 
 on me by the Ningan ; followed by a state robe of yellow and 
 white cotton, of beautifully soft texture, with a crimson comcience 
 in front, and one behind. 
 
 My right hand was then placed on my head, fifty-six yards of 
 white calico wi-apped round me, and over that some pieces of 
 black and violet twilled silk, twenty-two yards long. The 
 "bonugangei" or caboceer beads, were next placed round my 
 neck, consisting of seven bead necklaces of various colours, three 
 massive coral ditto, and two silver ones, all having a bunch of 
 plaited white cotton, like braid, dangling behind. A cap, shaped 
 like a Scotch bonnet, made of blue and white figured damask, 
 turned up with green, and with a green silk chin strap, was then 
 given me. Down the centre, a thick pad of leopard skin was 
 sewn, on the right side a crimson dragon, and on the left a 
 Prussian eagle of similar colour. Finally, a silver-mounted 
 dagger with a Turkey red sash, a pair of silver gauntlets, a 
 beautifully ornamented fetiche bag, and a tobacco-pouch, of the
 
 CHAP, xxiii. I A5I CREATED A rrjXCE. 435 
 
 carpet-bag size, completed my get-up, and very glad was I to get 
 to the end of it, as I stood, a candidate for sunstroke with four 
 suits of clothes on, and a hundred yards of cloth wound round me, 
 until I looked like a water-butt. The Ningan then made a 
 speech lasting half an hour. He said that the king made mo a 
 prince and caboceer equal in rank to the Avogan, and that all the 
 English town of Whydah was put in my hand. I was also made 
 commander-in-chief of the Ashanti company, and wore their cap. 
 To this I returned my thanks for the great honour conferred upon 
 me, my speech being received with deafening cheers. 
 
 I was then presented with a splendid umbrella of marone silk- 
 velvet. On alternate lappets were the royal blue bird, holding a 
 yellow shark in his beak, and a golden trident with scarlet hearts 
 on the prongs. The top was ornamented with tridents, and hearts 
 of blue and red damask, and the pole was surmounted by a figure 
 of a human being, sex unknown, with long curly black hair, 
 holding a dolphin's mouth open with both hands. The body was 
 naked, and painted bright vermilion. This was supposed to bo 
 myself, and the fish betokened that I was a prince permitted to 
 go across the sea, for none of the royal family of Dahomey are 
 permitted even to hear the noise of the surf, otherwise they would 
 certainly die within three days. When I was created one of the 
 blood- royal, this fetiche was given me to avert so great a calamity. 
 
 A rudely-carved stool, 100 heads of cowries, 1 case gin, 1 of 
 liqueurs, 1 large demijohn of rum, and 19 calabashes of provisions 
 were then handed over to me. Next came two Salu slaves, one as 
 stool-bearer, and the other as umbrella-man. After these came 
 twenty-two men to carry the presents, and to act as my servants. 
 
 Meu then conducted me to tlie gate, where I made a shuffle, as 
 dancing M^as out of the question, and marched three times round 
 the square, escorted by *•' my regiment," firing guns, dancing, and 
 singing. 
 
 I then got into my hammock, 
 
 " Accoutred as I was," 
 and proceeded home with a procession of about COO soldiers with 
 
 F F 2
 
 436 THE FINAL LEVEE. chap, xxiii. 
 
 me. On arrival at my house, I found the prince vdth. his usual 
 forethought had sent four demijohns of rum for my use, together 
 with four pieces of romals to " dash" my regiment. 
 
 No sooner did I arrive, than, finding my honours pressing too 
 heavily upon me, I took off my finery, and appeared " en mufti." 
 Amoosu then distributed the spirits and cloth, and I retired. 
 
 The Ashanti company then set up their usual dances, and a 
 battery of guns being extemporized out of their muskets, a series 
 of running shots was kept up all night. The poor captives who 
 had been presented to me seemed glad to get into the hands of 
 the English, whose anti-slavery principles they had long since 
 heard of. 
 
 In the morning I went again to Jegbeh attired as caboceer, 
 with umbrella, stool, etc., to pay my respects to the king. The 
 Mngan was then ''judging," as Beecham called it ; and now that I 
 was a "war-man," he became very affable, and offered me a seat 
 on his left, saying that I must take up my seat and judge palavers, 
 as became my dignitj^ as one of the highest officers. In the after- 
 noon, the usual dancing and singing wearied us for four hours, my 
 stool being placed among those of the ministers. On recei\'ing 
 our pass rum, we were told that on the next day we were to be 
 shown the tomb of Gezu, and the royal palaces. By eight o'clock 
 the next morning we were all ready, but heavy rain coming on, our 
 visit was postponed until the next day. 
 
 On the IGth, we started for Abomey by seven o'clock, and waited 
 under the trees opposite Gezu's storey house. In a few minutes, 
 the Binwanton, the Ningan's assistant, came up dressed in full 
 state costume, and conducted by him, Ave entered the Adanglo- 
 koh-dch gate, where we were received by a company of eunuchs, 
 who preceded us, crying out Ahgo in the usual drawHng tone 
 affected upon these occasions. In the first court, a large carriage 
 was drawn out, with a number of bells hung round the roof, 
 and a wooden elephant on the box. Passing through this, we 
 entered the second court, where the far-famed tomb of Gezu is 
 situated.
 
 HAP. XXIII. 
 
 VISIT TO THE TOMB OF GEZU. 
 
 437 
 
 On tlie right two conical thatched roofs, joined like Siamese 
 twins, covered low circular walls, painted white, and a broad piece 
 of coloured velvet extended from the eaves to the apex. The 
 tomb to the right was Gezu's, and the other one the Bush king 
 Gah-qpweh's, surmounted by massive silver ornaments. Gezu's 
 consisted of a square disc of silver with a raised border, and a 
 string of silver hearts depending from its lower edge. Above 
 this an elephant, standing in the middle of a number of silver 
 
 Tomb of king cfizc. 
 
 trees, like laurels, had overthrown a soldier. On the back of the 
 elephant was a ship, with mast and three soldiers, two of whom 
 rivalled the mast in altitude, while the third, much smaller, held 
 a cannon in his lap, on the top of the mast ; the whole being 
 much after the style of the ships on wheels, sold for a penny in 
 England. 
 
 The allegory is that as soldiers who go out to shoot elephants 
 arc often killed by them, so the enemies of Dahomey who look with
 
 438 TIIE FINAL LEVEE. chap, xxiii. 
 
 envious eyes upon the kingdom must be destroyed. The ship 
 denoted that many foreigners came to see Gezu. 
 
 Gah-qpweh, Gezu's Bush king, had a tall silver tree with a 
 Guinea-fowl of monstrous proportions resting on the top of it. 
 Round the circular base a double row of silver Amazon's hells 
 tinkled in the wind. From the base of each of these ornaments 
 long strings of coral, Popo beads, and other valuables, hung down 
 the roof. 
 
 On the extreme left were the tombs of Agotime and Nutobe, 
 the mothers of the late monarch and his bush companion. They 
 "were covered with a conical thatched roof, with a large brass 
 cooking-pot on the apex. 
 
 Before the king's tomb was a swish mound, with 146 skulls 
 stuck in it, and the terminal heaps were frises of human thigh 
 bones, and a bordering of the same marked out two white-sanded 
 pathways, leading to the low doorways of the tombs. Outside 
 these were four tall scaffold poles, crossed at the top by others, 
 from which a valance of variously coloured cloths hung with 
 vandyked fringes at the bottom. Attached to the cross poles by 
 iron chains were 122 skulls, which rattled against each other 
 with a ghostly music. On the right was a small fetiche house 
 with a Legba pot, asen, and other emblems ; and a tall flagstaff 
 bearing a white flag was fixed at either end. 
 
 In the centre of the roof a bright coloured cloth denoted 
 the king's throne, around which several Amazons were seated. 
 A baclfground of beautifully-coloured cloths was suspended 
 from the pillars supporting the roof, and the floor of the shed 
 was covered with matting. A tall brass-mounted liqueur case 
 was conspicuously placed in front, and several tame Guinea-pigs 
 and grey parrots were playing about. 
 
 Opposite the throne an umbrella of European shape with 
 scolloped valances was set up, with a smaller one on the right. 
 These are brought out every day in readiness to receive tbe king, 
 if he should take any sudden idea into his head of visiting tlie 
 palace. A similar custom prevails in all the palaces. A table
 
 (■i[AP. XXIII. VISIT TO THE COOMASSTE PALACE. 439 
 
 with liqueurs and other refreshments was set out for our accom- 
 modation, and we drank Gelele's health with "vivas." After 
 complimentary speeches from the Amazonian housekeeper, we 
 left the court, bearing 10 heads of cowries, bottles of rum, 
 liqueurs, and 4 calabashes of cooked pro\asions, which were set 
 out in the shed in the outer court, and we fell-to upon the venison, 
 U'oat, fowls, and other dainties, which were by no means to bo 
 despised. Bin wanton and I feasted beneath the shed, the others, 
 including Beecham, having their breakfast in the open, as none 
 liut officers of high rank are permitted to "chop" under the 
 shelter of the king's roof. 
 
 After duly "chopping," we left the Abom.ey palace for the 
 Coomassie palace, where we were received by the So-So-ton, the 
 Ningan's assistant. After passing through the court where the 
 brass-aproned spirit-house of Gezu was still tinkling in a myste- 
 rious way, we entered a long range of apartments of the barn 
 order of architecture. These were beautifully clean, and white- 
 washed, or coloured in distemper, and were tlie private apart- 
 ments of the late king. Leaving this on the left, we entered a 
 spacious area with a small shed in the centre, surrounded by a 
 hedge of skulls. This was the state bedroom of the warlike 
 king, the bedstead being a huge four-poster of European make, 
 with several fine grass mats by way of bedding upon it. Several 
 fetiches were scattered about, and the gateway was guarded by a 
 corps of Amazons. After viewing this we returned to the spirit- 
 house court, where we again drank the health of the monarcli, 
 and received a present of chop. As I had made a good breakfast 
 at Abomey I Avished to send this second donation to my quarters, 
 but court etiquette necessitated my eating it in the palace, as 
 these feasts arc considered to be taken with his IMajcsty himself, 
 ho never dining with any male person in propria pcrsond. On 
 leaving I received a further present of provisions, and then took 
 my scat pro forma on the magisterial stool at the gate. 
 
 The following morning I went to sec the Bcnazon, whose 
 residence adjoined the Jcgbeh palace. We passed through several
 
 440 THE FINAL LEVEE. CHAP. xxnr. 
 
 courtyard!^, calling out Ahgo in case any of the Amazons were 
 about, and waited for the State treasurer in his fetiche house. 
 This officer has just married a princess, and he wished to intro- 
 duce us to his new bride. After drinking healths we were 
 conducted through two courts to the private apartments, where 
 we found the new wife got uj) in splendid style. She was 
 apparently about eighteen years of age, by no means bad looking, 
 and profusely decorated with jewellery. Coral and silver neck- 
 laces and bracelets covered her neck and arms, and round her 
 head she wore a fillet of black velvet, from which a number of 
 silver and gold coins depended, after the fashion of the Fellah 
 girls in Egypt. She said that she was pleased to see her father's 
 friend, and presented me with provisions cooked by herself, 
 according to custom, an honour I returned by gi^^ng her my 
 hair-brush with a looking-glass set in the back, and a comb 
 sliding behind it. This seemed to delight her, and with a 
 profusion of thanks from her we retired. The Benazon has a 
 peculiar method of keeping accounts. Each article, whether 
 beads, guns, cowries, cloth, or palm oil, is contained in a bin, and 
 on the wall opposite a rude drawing of the article beneath is 
 made. A number of marks corresponding to the number of 
 articles are made on the wall, and as the contents of the bin are 
 used, a second series of marks are made, and the accounts are 
 balanced by the tallying of the two series. 
 
 On the 20th we went to Ilahansu's palace, where that prince 
 was going to water his private fetiches. His fetiche house was a 
 museum of curiosities in fetichism. There was a complete series 
 of the Dahoman gods with their crockery and iron ware. From 
 the roof, globular affairs covered with cotton yarn of diiferent 
 colours, were suspended by cords, supposed to have some magic 
 influence upon the life of the owner. The floor was covered with 
 whitewash, and marked in several places by squares, diamonds, 
 and other geometrical designs, and down the centre a broad stripe 
 of red, yellow, and blue chalk, looked like a piece of oil-cloth. 
 
 To the right a small shed covered a large asen, and before this
 
 CHAP, xxiii. DErARTURE FROM ABOMEY. 441 
 
 a number of ducks, sheep, fowls, and otlier animals were decapi- 
 tated, and their blood sprinkled on the asen. Grog and cowries 
 were then distributed to the people, who then proceeded to the 
 palace, where Gelel^ made a short speech, calling upon the Heges 
 to fight bravely when he called upon them, and a final discharge 
 of muskets brought the Annual Custom of 1871 to a conclusion, 
 which had cost the lives of sixty-eight to my own personal know- 
 ledge, while probably eighty would be nearer the mark when the 
 Amazonian victims are counted. 
 
 On the 23rd, after a busy day spent in packing up, I proceeded 
 to Jegbeh, and finally bade the king adieu, with protestations of 
 continual fi'iendship, his Majesty presenting me with a splendid 
 piece of cloth for Mr. Swanzy, one for my father, and a third for 
 myself. He also gave me a handsome cloth for her Majesty, 
 together with a royal Kpo stick, as an emblem of my authority 
 to bring over the ambassadors to England. He then gave me the 
 land formerly belonging to Kunhoton, a caboceer of Savi, who 
 had lately died, and promised to build me a house in Jegbeh for 
 my accommodation on my return. To cultivate the land he gave 
 me sixty-four slaves, who were immediately dispatched to the 
 plantation, where they were joined by others of their tribe whom 
 I had received from the Idog at various periods. There they 
 remain happy in the security of my protection, and ere I left had 
 set up for themselves, and seemed to be better off than they ever 
 hoped to be in their own country. 
 
 I then went to Hahansu's house, where the prince and I dined, 
 and he gave me a beautiful piece of cloth made by his weavers, 
 several goats, pigs, fowls, and two bullocks, and about eight 
 o'clock we started. 
 
 On arrival at the gffte I found a company of the Ashanti 
 regiment drawn up, who were to accompany me to Whydah. 
 They commenced to fire and dance on my arrival, and we then 
 started down the Kan a road. The prince accompanied me quite 
 half-way to Kana, and then bidding me adieu, returned to his 
 palace, with sincere regret depicted upon his countenance ; and I
 
 442 THE FINAL LEYEE. CHAP, xxiii. 
 
 must confess that I felt truly sorry to leave this inestimable 
 young man. The firing was kept up till the prince left us, and 
 then discontinued until we reached the Kan a gate, where our 
 arrival was announced by salvos of musketry. I there found my 
 people who had been sent on beforehand, but learned to my 
 sorrow that Richards had been detained by the Men's people on 
 some pretence, but was told that the prince would send him on to 
 me in a few days. I believe this unfortunate person was hurried 
 away by the IMeu's jailer, for I could hear nothing of him, 
 although I sent several messengers demanding him from the 
 king, who assured me that he had made every enquiry about 
 him, but could not find him. 
 
 We left Kana the next morning at seven, and made a quick 
 passage through the Aglime swamp, and arrived at Akpweh 
 about 4 p.m., where we had a small reception, and received 
 presents of live stock. 
 
 On the next day, Christmas day, we stayed for the night at 
 Alladah, where a grand firing and reception kept me awake half 
 the night. 
 
 Finally, I arrived at "Whydah at seven o'clock on the evening 
 of the 26th, our entrance being delayed until night, as I was to 
 be received by the Avogan in public, and my arrival was to be 
 concealed from the public gaze. 
 
 I
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE DAHOMAN CONSTITUTIOIf. 
 
 Duality of the Dahoman monarclis — Despotism of the king— Curious laws — The 
 army — Its divisions — Officers of state — Military tactics. 
 
 The reader has already become acquainted with many par- 
 ticulars respecting the king and army of Dahomey, and it now 
 remains to give additional information respecting the system of 
 Government as practised jn that kingdom. 
 
 The present King of Dahomey is the ninth monarch who has 
 occupied the throne. He succeeded in preference to an elder 
 brother, Godo, whose reputation as a drunkard was too notorious 
 to admit of his sitting in the " stool" of his ancestors. Gezu, 
 his father, on his death-bed, especially recommended Gelele as 
 his successor, but ere being firmly established he was obliged to 
 overcome several insurrections headed by his many brothers. 
 
 Upon his succession he adopted Addokpon as his Bush king, 
 an account of whose fictitious person has already been related. 
 
 As might be supposed, the king is an absolute monarch, whose 
 will within certain limits is law. This, however, is only true in 
 a restricted sense, for even so despotic a monarch dare not run 
 contrary to the wishes of the majority of his subjects. 
 
 Most of the laws of the country emanate from the king, who 
 before passing an "Act of Parliament" submits it to the opinion i 
 of the principal ministers. Should they deem it impolitic, the I 
 idea is abandoned, but if they approve of its adoption it is 
 announced at the next court assembly, and heralds are sent round 
 to proclaim it. If, however, any of the lieges wish to suggest an
 
 U?t THE DAIIOMAN COXSTITrTIOX. chap. xxiv. 
 
 improvement upon an old decree or propose a new one, it is done 
 in open court and the pros and cons discussed in public. 
 
 All minor criminal cases are submitted to the caboceers in tlie 
 order of their rank, but crimes invohang capital punishment and 
 high treason are tried by the king alone, and he reserves to him- 
 self the passing of the sentence of death upon any subject. 
 
 Many of the laws of the country are the mere caprices of the 
 king. A brief summary of some of them are appended. 
 
 No person is allowed to build his house of more than four tiers 
 of swish. 
 
 No person is allowed to marry a wife without first submitting her 
 to the king, who, if he pleases, enlists her in the Amazonian corps. 
 
 No goods landed at Whydah can be reshipped. 
 
 No subject is allowed to sit in a chair in public. 
 
 No subject is allowed to wear shoes or to ride in a hammock. 
 
 No Dahoman woman is allowed to leave the country. 
 
 Such are a few of the peculiar laws regulating the welfare of 
 the Ffons. 
 
 The whole organization of the empire below the king is 
 centred in the army. The higher the rank the person holds in the 
 military scale the higher his position in everything. This is the 
 case in every country where civilization is as yet in its infancy. The 
 bravest warrior is always respected above his less warlike compeers. 
 
 In Dahomey every man is more or less a soldier, either actually 
 or liable to serve at a moment's notice. In the field the men take 
 the wings, while the Amazons occupy the centre. Each of these 
 bodies is again divided into right and left divisions, while the 
 .A.mazons have a cntral brigade, the king's bodyguard. 
 
 The right brigade is considered the superior one, and all officers 
 connected with it bold a rank a step higher than their coadjutors 
 on the left. 
 
 The prime-minister of Dahomey, field-marshal, and war 
 captain-in-chief, is the Ningan. He is also the chief magistrate, 
 superintendent of police, and executioner for Gelele. He holds 
 no communication with visitors to the king unless they are
 
 CHAP. XXIV. OFFICERS OF THE ARMY. 445 
 
 created )Baaiigan, or war c apta ins^ and he lias no dealings with 
 ::ny civil husiness whatever. War alone is his province, and 
 uade palavers are far below his dignity and consideration. All 
 captives taken in war are put under his charge. The Ningan is 
 the only officer who has the privilege to talk " Lion mouth," that 
 is, to address his Majesty of Dahomey with the prefix " Aiah," 
 an onomatopetic word supposed to resemble a lion's roar. He 
 invests all newly made officers with their robes, and is the supreme 
 judge in all cases that do not go before the king. 
 
 All these high dignitaries have deputies, and the Ningan's 
 assistant is the Biwanton, a tall, fine fellow, who conducted us 
 through the Abomey palace. 
 
 The commander of the second division of the right wing is the 
 Gaou, whose appointment has been described. His deputy is the 
 Matro, a half-brother to Gelele, by the same father but a difierent 
 mother. All these officers have corresponding "mothers" among 
 the Amazons, who take precedence of their male coadjutors. 
 
 On the left wing, the second minister in the realm is the Men, 
 whose office is anything but a sinecure. He is the officer under 
 whose care all visitors to the court are placed, the executer of 
 Addokpon's victims, and the collector of all revenues, which he 
 hands over to the treasurer, or Benazon. The present officer is a 
 shrewd little man, very different to the childish imbecile who filled 
 the office in Burton's time. The Adonejan is the deputy of the Meu, 
 who is the "English landlord" and engineer-in- chief to the palaces. 
 
 The corresponding officer to the Gaou is Kposu, a young man 
 who is extremely fond of appearing in court with a calico coat of 
 European cut covering his naked back. His deputy is the 
 Ahwegbamen. 
 
 Next in rank to the Meu is the Viceroy of Whydah, the Avogan 
 or Yevogan, whose peculiarities have been already mentioned. 
 
 Besides these there are several erratic officers, whose position 
 seems to be unsettled. Of these the Ajakyaho holds the highest 
 place. He is the custodian of the offending Bonugan when they 
 are committed to prison by the kijig's order. He administers
 
 446 THE DAIIOMAX CONSTIXrTIOX. CHAP. xxiv. 
 
 the oath to witnesses upon all state trials, and is the landlord of 
 the Coomassie palace. His second is the So-gan already men- 
 tioned. He is the " Captain of the Horse," a mther misleading 
 term used in the History. His real office is to take charge of the 
 horses of the oaboceers during the So-Sin Custom. 
 
 These are the principal Ahwangan or war officers, and next to 
 them are the Owutunun or officers of the household. Of them 
 the Benazon or treasurer is the principal, who has charge of the 
 royal coffers, war munitions, and stores of every description. 
 
 Then come the eunuchs, under the aged Tononun, who is the 
 chief eunuch of Gezu, and who, instead of accompanying his 
 master to Deadland as is usually the case, was spared by special 
 order of that king. The chief eunuch for Gelele is the Gbwe- 
 wedo. He is superintendent of the Amazonian quarters in tlio 
 palace, and, like the Tononun, has the privilege of stepping across 
 the barrier which always separates the sexes in public. He or 
 his deputy is one of the first to visit strangers, and he brings 
 the royal welcome to all visitors who are honoured with a 
 reception. 
 
 The inspector of the night guards of the palace, the Kangbodeh, 
 is the next officer, who, hke the eunuchs, wears a small bell round 
 his neck. His myrmidons assist the eunuchs in the placing of the 
 bamboo sticks, and in the guarding of them during the Custom 
 Processions. His deputy is the Kakopwe, and his deputy's 
 deputy the Kokoagi. The to^\^l police have been mentioned in 
 speaking of Whydah. 
 
 "We then come to the Akhisiin or trade captains. Of these 
 the Quinun at "Whydah is the chief, who inspects all ships' 
 cargoes, and receives the customs dues. Next to these come the 
 commanders of the various towns, who are innumerable, and in 
 fact the officers form nearly a fifth of the army. 
 
 The privates are divided into several corps, of which the 
 following are the principal : — 
 
 The veterans are known as the Blue or English compan}^ who 
 wear indigo-coloured tunics with white crossbelts, and Scotch
 
 CHAP. XXIV. THE DAHOMAN REGIMENTS. 447 
 
 bonnets with alligators embroidered on the side. Next come the 
 Achi, the Bayoueteers of Burton, whose distinctive mark is a 
 trefoil on the cap. The Agbaraya or blunderbusseers, under the 
 Kpofensu, who is also chief jester and hereditary court fool, rank 
 next. Ihcir weapons are sliort brass blunderbusses which 
 explode with a report like that of a young cannon. Besides this 
 there are the Ashanti company recently organized, the Gana 
 nlan, or royal hunters, whose weapons are supposed to kill a 
 person dead at one shot ; the Dahoman Hastati or Zohunun ; the 
 Madcap company or Mnan ; and the Aro or archers. All these 
 brigades have their respective officers, and are divided equally 
 amongst the right and left wings of the army. 
 
 Each soldier is provided with arms and ammunition at the 
 Government expense, but they receive neither pay nor rations, 
 and on the march each warrior is supposed to carry his own 
 provisions. On the war-path they lodge in small bamboo hut3/ 
 like the Gu-hoh or Gun-custom huts, and ere starting on any 
 expedition the forces assemble at Kana and encamp in the 
 Gu-hoh on the south side of that town. 
 
 Every soldier is expected to bring back a head or a prisoner, 
 and at the end of the campaign the heads and captives are given 
 to the king, who buys them from the soldiers at fixed prices. 
 After the disastrous defeat at Abeokeuta, Gelele ransomed many 
 of the Dahomans from their captors. 
 
 The system of warfare is the usual barbarous one of surprise. 
 "When the king declares war he rarely tolls even his ministers 
 the name of the town he intends to attack. The army marches 
 out, and when within a few days' journey of the town, silence is 
 enjoined upon everybody, and no fires are permitted to be lighted. 
 All stragglers are taken prisoners, and the army is led through a 
 road cut through the bush, and not along the regular highways. 
 The town is surrounded in the dead of night, and just before day- 
 break a rush is made, and every man, woman and child captured 
 if possible. None are killed save in self-defence, as the object is 
 to capture, not to butcher.
 
 448 THE DAIIOMAN CONSTITUTION. chap. :xxiv. 
 
 If the attack has been successful every inhabitant that has not 
 escaped in the melee is sent to Abomcy and placed under the 
 care of the Ajakyaho, when some grace the following Customs, 
 and others are sent to distant parts of the kingdom. Some are 
 enlisted in the Dahoman army, and the highest offices are open to 
 them. The women are invariably made Amazonian camp 
 followers, and reside within the precincts of the palaces. The 
 town, after being captured, is usually razed to the ground, unless 
 it occupies an important position, and every goat, fowl, or duck 
 that can be laid hold of is carried off. 
 
 Should, however, the invaded offer any resistance, a severe and 
 bloody struggle ensues, lasting but a short time, as the native 
 courage is but a spasmodic ferocity, and soon burns out, and in that 
 case the army decamps, never rallying after being once beaten off. 
 
 On the return to Abomey the heads and captives are bought by 
 th'^ king, and the chief of the conquered people usually graces 
 the succeeding Custom. The wars are, therefore, merely slave- 
 taking expeditions, or head hunts, after the fashion of the Dyaks 
 of the Malay Archipelago. The season for these maraudings is 
 that immediately succeeding the Customs, or in the dry weather 
 which lasts from January to March. Owing to the many priva- 
 tions and liardships entailed upon the army, whose regime is in so 
 crude a condition, the loss of life by disease is far in excess of 
 that by the sword and gun. After the return it is no unusual 
 thing for an epidemic of small-pox to break out, when the ravages 
 it commits among such a people can be imagined. Three out of 
 the eight kings of the present dynasty have fallen victims to this 
 dreadful scourge. 
 
 The following is a tabular list of the Kings of Dahomey : — 
 
 1. Daho', 1625—1650. 
 
 His " strong names " were "Donun" (omniscient); Akwazhu 
 (the leveller of his enemies), and many others. lie was the son 
 
 ' All the names of the kings at the commencement of sentences. Daho 
 means omniscient.
 
 CHAP. XXIV. THE KINGS OF DAHOMEY. 449 
 
 of the last king of Alladah, at whose d6;ath he migrated north 
 and conquered Adauwe, and founded the present kingdom (see 
 p. 85). In the history he is called Tacoodonou. His palace is 
 called Dahomey, and his spirit is watered at the Adanglacordeh 
 gate. 
 
 2. Aho', 1650—1679. 
 
 His "strong names" were Adan-hun-zo (a hrave man with 
 courage) ; Sin-wula-gan (beware of the captain if you play 
 tricks) ; Sin-nyenkpon-edan (water will dr^^' up before him), &c. 
 
 He was the son of Daho, but when the heralds commence the 
 list of kings he is always placed first in consequence of his many 
 victories. He seized his father's wives, and was banished, and 
 at his father's death returned and conquered King Agrim, a 
 neighbouring chief, over whose body he built the Agrimgomen 
 palace.^ His spirit is watered on the Patinsa gate of the Abomey 
 palace. He is the Adahoonzou I. of the History. 
 
 3. Akabah', 1680—1708. 
 
 The best-known " strong names " of Akabah are Hwes 
 Akabah (the Great Akabah) and — 
 
 "He flung a cutlass, and the owner of the country resigned to 
 him his lands (alluding to his throwing a sword at Yaghaze, the 
 conquered king of Wcmc)." — Burton. 
 
 He was the brother of Alio, and conquered the district of 
 Jegbeh, near the Malii country, hence the Jcgbeh district near 
 Abomey. 
 
 He was the king who reigned when Dahomey came into inter- 
 course with Europeans. He is the Weebaigah of Dalzcl. His 
 palace is at Dahomey, and his spirit-watering takes place at 
 Adanglacordeh. 
 
 4. AGAJAH^ 1708—1728. 
 
 His strong names were very numerous, the principal being 
 
 * A solid rock. 2 other accounts say that Agajali killed Agrim. 
 
 ^ A tall man. *• A branched tree must t j lopped before it can be burnt. 
 
 G G
 
 460 THE DAHOMAN COXSTITUTION. CHAP. xxiv. 
 
 Dosu deh Menh (Dosif will cut down all liis enemies) ; if ho 
 looks at a man he must close his eyes, &c. 
 
 He was a usurper, having deposed his elder brother, Mhogela, 
 and became one of the gi'eatest monarchs of the kingdom, which, 
 under his rule, assumed considerable importance. He was anxious 
 to have free passage to the coast, and being refused by Alladah, 
 conquered it, and took Bulfinch Lambe prisoner. In 1727 he 
 conquered Whydah, and sacrificed 4,000 prisoners in his triumph. 
 He is mentioned by Capt. Snelgrave, in his book, " A Full Account 
 of some parts of Guinea and of the Slave Trade." He also 
 conquered the TofFos, but in repressing a revolt of the Whydahs 
 under Fosu (p. 28) was only saved by the intervention of Governor 
 Wilson. He was the originator of the Amazons, and although 
 he died at the early age of 45, yet his conquests were only 
 equalled by those of G^zu. He is the Guadja Trudo of the 
 Histor}', while His palace is called Agrimgomen, where also His 
 spirit is watered. 
 
 5. Tegbwesun ', 1729 — 1775. 
 
 His strong names were not very numerous, according to the 
 heralds, the only one I ever heard being " Si men egbe don" (a 
 woman will not go to war for nothing). 
 
 He was the second son of Agajah by Chai, and succeeded to 
 the exclusion of his brother Zingah, whom he threw into the sea 
 at Whydah. His cruelty caused many revolts, and the Eyeos 
 made a descent upon the country and overran it, and imposed an 
 annual tribute. In his reign the Avogan, a eunuch named 
 Tanga, made an attempt to obtain the throne, but was defeated. 
 The king's brother-in-law Shampo fell under the king's suspicion, 
 and fled to the Popos, whose army he commanded for many years 
 (see p. 30). 
 
 Tegbwesun was visited in 176G by ^Ir. Archibald Dalzel, who 
 wrote the History of which we have spoken. Tegbwesu's palace 
 was called Adandokpoji Daho, or Liseh-hoonzeh, and in the 
 History he is called Bossa Ahadi. 
 
 ' No one can take the cloth off a wild bull's neck.
 
 PHAP. XXIV. THE KIXGS OF DAHOMEY. 451 
 
 6. Mpengula", 1775—1789. 
 
 The principal strong name assumed by this monarch was, 
 ' People who sell hoes do not give any to buyers." 
 
 He was the son of Tegbwesun by Hunajilch, and a very 
 warlike monarch. One of his first conquests was that of the 
 Nagos, and afterwards he attacked the Apees. The Eyeos were 
 very troublesome, and feuds between them and the Dahomans 
 were of constant occurrence. In 1789 he attacked Katu, and 
 carried off many prisoners. During his reign the road between 
 Abomey and the coast was constructed, and his palace at Adando 
 kpoji Haseh is the most substantial in the capital. He was also 
 called Sinmenkpen '^, and is the Adahoonzou II. of the History. 
 His spirit is watered at his palace, but the victims are usually 
 reprieved. 
 
 7. AGONGOLu^ 1789—1817. 
 
 The best-known strong name for this king is Menbe Khesin 
 Dahomey Egbam (all people jnust fear to destroy Dahomey). 
 
 This monarch was the son of Mpengula by Senune, and had 
 considerable difficulty in establishing himself on the throne, in 
 consequence of the opposition of the late king's brothers. The 
 Grand Customs instituted in honour of Mpengula were notorious 
 from the number of victims, no less than 1,300 captives being 
 sacrificed. He was very unfortunate in his wars, and the Eyeos 
 imposed heavy taxes upon his people. Dalzel calls him Whee- 
 noohew, but, like most of the titles given by that author, it is 
 unkno^Ti to the heralds. Agongolu died in 1817. His palace 
 is called Bwekon hue gbo, where his spirit is also watered. 
 
 8. Gezu\ 1818. 
 
 This monarch is the most celebrated of all the Dahoman kings. 
 His strong names are very numerous, a few only being given. 
 Bodun - Ganu - Minh (a fetiche conquering everything) ; 
 
 ' A brave rock. " Water in a stone. 
 
 ' A palmyra cannot be struck by lightning. 
 ■* The scarlet bird is not afraid of the bush. 
 
 o G 2
 
 452 THE DAHOMAX COXSTITUTIOX. chap, xxiv^ 
 
 Eganu-menseh Minhwae Gezu (lie conquered all his enemies, 
 so everybody comes to Gezu) ; Gan kaka de jeh (a conqueror 
 for whom everybody will wait) ; Vokbe Mau (the scarlet bii-d 
 of the gods), &c., &c. 
 
 At the death of Agongolu there we're two persons eligible for 
 election — Gaze and Gezu, his two sons. The former, being a 
 hunchback, was induced to retire, when Adanzan, a younger 
 brother, raised the standard of rebellion, but was defeated. 
 
 Gezu commenced his career of conquest by treacherously 
 destroying Jena, and he afterwards attacked the Eyeos, and freed 
 his country fi-om their imposts. He made frequent excursions 
 into the Mahi country, and extended his northern frontier to the 
 Kong mountains. In 1848 he made a descent upon Ota, near 
 Badagary, and carried off thousands of prisoners. In 1851 he 
 advanced against Abeokeuta, but was repulsed with considerable 
 loss. 
 
 He was visited by Duncan and Commander Forbes, and in 
 1852 signed a treaty, whereby he agreed to discontinue the slave 
 trade. 
 
 He instituted a Bush king, whom he called Gah-qpweh', and 
 commenced the formation of the "omnipotent cloth." 
 
 Gezu died in 1858 of small-pox, and the present king has 
 erected a splendid mausoleum over him at Abomey. He made a 
 pseudo attack upon the Ashantees, and in commemoration of the 
 event called his palace Coomassie. Gezu's mother was Agotime, 
 and his bush king's Nutobe. His spirit is watered in the 
 Coomassie palace. 
 
 9. GELELE^ 1858. 
 
 Some of this king's strong names have been mentioned passim : 
 others are Tenge raakan fenkpon (a rock, the finger nail cannot 
 scratch it, behold !) (Burton) ; Kini Kini (the lion king), &c. 
 
 Like his father, Gelel^ ascended the throne in place of an elder 
 brother Godo, who was a notorious drunkard. 
 
 • \Mien market-day comes it must be full. 
 - Big, without beiug capable of being lifted.
 
 CHAP. XXIV. THE KIXGS OF DAHOMEY. 453 
 
 He conquered many petty chiefs at the commencement of his 
 reign, and in 1860 Akiaon fell before him. 
 
 In 1861 he advanced against Abeokeuta, but was compelled to 
 retreat in consequence of small-pox. In 1862 he fell upon 
 Ishagga, and carried off thousands of prisoners, amongst whom 
 were some negro missionaries. In 1864 he again attacked 
 Abeokeuta, but was signally defeated, losing the flower of his 
 army. 
 
 He was \asited in 1862 by Commodore Wilmot, and in 1864 
 by Captain Burton. 
 
 Gelele's mother still survives, Zoindi by name. His Bush king 
 is Addokpon', and his mother Dahn li Keh. He has lately built 
 a fine palace at Jegbeh, where also his spirit-house is erected. 
 
 ^ Look at the Addo (a bead supposed to be imperishable).
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE AMAJZONS. 
 
 Origin of the Amazons— How recruited — Their ranks — Their titles — " Our 
 mothers " — Female soldiers of civilised nations. 
 
 / 
 One of the most singular institutions of Dahomey is the female 
 
 army, or Amazons, as they have been called. "When these 
 soldieresses were first introduced into the country is unknowTi ; 
 but, in 1728, Agajah, the fourth king, having received a defeat 
 at the hands' of the Eyeos, the implacable enemies of his race, 
 organized a regiment of the women in the palace, and with these 
 attacked the old Whydahs under Ossue their king, and com- 
 pletely routed them. 
 
 Under Gezu, however, the corps attained its greatest prestige, 
 who raised it from a mere subsidiary position to a status equal, if 
 not superior, to that of the men. /He also efiected the balance of 
 power by crpating she-officers, corresponding to the "outside" 
 ministerp.^^eroby checking any rebelHous intentions that might 
 enter the mind of any ambitious subject, and ensuring his personal 
 safety by surrounding himself with an armed body of viragos, 
 who, like every blue stocking amongst civiKzed nations, were 
 conceitedly vain of their manly qualifications. 
 
 The late king issued a decree, summoning every subject to 
 present his daughters, above a certain age, at the court; upon an 
 appointed day. There, he selected the most promising of the 
 children of the upper ten, and created them officers, while the 
 lower orders were dubbed soldiers, and the children of slave
 
 CHAP. XXV. ORIGIN OF THE AMAZOXS. 455 
 
 parents became the slaves of the Amazons within the palace. 
 The remainder were returned to their parents. Of the selected, 
 many were dashed to the deserving soldiers as wives, and every 
 three years a similar conscription of the daughters of the land is 
 made ; while all the children of Amazonian women are Amazons 
 from the birth. 
 
 CeHbacy is enjoined upon every Amazon, except those legally 
 married ; and a particular fetiche, the Demon, is erected in one of 
 the palace gates, called the Abo dewe gate, which, by its peculiar 
 powers, causes certain pregnancy in any Amazon of easy virtue. 
 
 Besides this god, there is a certain jealousy of such matters, 
 which generally results in the crime reaching the ears of one of 
 the officeresses, and the culprit's fears are so worked upon, that 
 she invariably confesses the name of her seducer. An instance 
 has been given of a large band of these fallen Amazons, who were 
 brought up for punishment. . >, 
 
 The king has several of these Amazons as concubines, and from 
 their ranks he selects his Kpo-si or Leopard-wives, who enjoyj 
 many special privileges. 
 
 They may number possibly 4,000, but the flower of the corps 
 perished under the walls of Abeokeuta, in the disastrous defeat in 
 1864. They are divided into three brigades, known as the king's , 
 company, the right, and the left wings. Each of these has p^ 
 peculiar head-dress, by which they may be kno\vn. The kir.^''s 
 brigade, sometimes called the Fanti company, or Centre, wef\r the 
 hair shaved a la turban, and bound with narrow fillets, with 
 alligators of coloured cloth sewn on them. '^'^^ right wing have 
 their heads shaven, leaving only a solitary ^^^^ o^' two, while the 
 left wear the hair att naturelle. 
 
 The king, or his representative, the A^^i'^^anun, commands the 
 Fanti company, who are the bravest an- strongest of the corps — 
 the household troops of the country— wP correspond to the Blue 
 or English brigade amongst the male s^^iery. Under the king 
 are the Danh jihunto on the right, aiidV' Jibcwheton, with her 
 fleur de lis, on the left.
 
 456 THE AMAZONS. chap. xxv. 
 
 The right brigade is commanded by the Gundeme, the grey- 
 haired representative of the Ningan. Her lieutenant is the 
 Khetungan, who corresponds to the Gaou. 
 
 The left brigade is under the Akpadump, and the Fosupoh, 
 who are the " doubles " of the Meu and the Kposu. 
 
 Besides these war captains, there are others who take com- 
 mand of skirmishing parties and small predatory assaults upon 
 the minor towns. These are the coadjutresses of the Adonejan, 
 the Ajakyaho, the Biwanton, the Tokpo, and the Sogan. 
 
 Each of the three brigades is divided into four classes, with a 
 captain and numberless lieutenants to each. 
 
 They are as follow«fc: — 
 
 The Agbaraya^.or blunuerbisseers, the veterans of the army, and, 
 like the ancient Tiu:*rii, only called into action upon urgent need. 
 They wear blufc"* tutics, wit]" white cross belts, and their fillets are 
 very large and loi-^g- "^Jieir standards are of the most ferocious 
 description, such as .? .^m cutting an enemy to mincemeat, or 
 blowing him to fragmtiUy"by a single discharge of his musket. 
 
 The Gbeto, an elephant huntresses, whose uniform has already 
 
 been noticed, who correspond to the Gan-u-nlan of the men's 
 
 side. This corps is one of the most celebrated in the ai'my ; 
 
 when on a hunting expedition, they are exposed to many 
 
 tiangers, and Hahansu gave me a long account of a disastrous 
 
 cb.'JOipaign, in which twelve Amazons lost their lives. The 
 
 hunttrs had attacked a herd as they browsed in the open, and had 
 
 succeeded iu killing one, when they were attacked by several who 
 
 had been conceaicu Vtt the tall grass. Several peiished, pierced 
 
 by the tusks, or literally dashed to pieces by the trunks of the 
 
 infuriated animals, and ^yQj-y Gbeto carries a particular fetiche to 
 
 prevent a recurrence of \q awful catastrophe. 
 
 ' The Nyekpleh-hentoi'^ qj, ^hzot women, of whom there are 
 
 but a few to each wrngg^jjcg their special object of aversion is 
 
 ithe king of the enem} fQj. whose decapitation their singular 
 
 weapon was invented ^}Oezn, 
 
 The Gulonentoh, or D^sketeers, who form the main body, and
 
 I 
 
 i
 
 CHAP. XXV. THE AM.iZOXIAN COMPANIES. 4r>7 
 
 "whose appearance has often been described. The king's brigade 
 has a fifth company, the Gohento, or archeresses, the representa- 
 tives of the Aro, or the men's side. These are all young girls, 
 ■who are mostly used as a show corps, their weapons being 
 comparatively useless in actual warfare. They are, nevertheless 
 as boastful as any of the veterans, and in the dance their youth- 
 ful agility comes out in a conspicuous manner. ^ 
 
 Besides these, there are a number ofi pam p - f nil n wer.'j^ whose duty^ ' ^ 
 it is to draw the water, cut the wood, and till the ground for their '^^r 
 superiors, and these are the impudent hussies one is always Sf 11 
 meeting with their belled leader, and out of whose way one has to w 
 scamper, to the ruffling of one's temper. All the other corps are >^ 
 
 armed with muskets or blunderbusses, kept scrupulously clean. 
 Of their qualities as marksmen I never had any experience, but 
 I should think the hitting of a haystack would be about the sum 
 total of their accomplishments. 
 
 Addukpon, the Bush king , likewise has his Amazonian corps, 
 andall the deceased kings have their wives or mothers repre- 
 sented. Besides this, every official, no matter how high or low his 
 rank, has a corresponding " double" on the inside. When I was 
 created a prince, a warrioress was raised to equal rank inside, 
 who will be known to future travellers as the Avagansi, or white 
 prince's "mother." 
 
 The titles by which the Amazons are known to the Ffons are, v 
 Akhosusi, or king- wives, and Mino, or " our mothers." Uespect- \ 
 ing this last cognomen, curious errors have arisen. For example, 
 the same person may one day be called the Ningan's " wife," 
 and on the next, his " mother." Again, on inquiring the name 
 of some distinguished old crone, we are told that it is so and so's 
 *' mother," when perhaps she is younger than her child. Duncan 
 remarked upon the youthful appearance of the mothers of some of 
 the kings, whereas the actual maternals were dead and buried 
 long ago. 
 
 The corps have a great reputation for valour. Indeed such a 
 thing is only what might be expected. Whenever a woman
 
 458 THE AMAZONS. chap. xxv. 
 
 becomes unsexed, either by the force of circumstances or depravity, 
 she invariably exhibits a superlativeness of evil. 
 
 " For men at most differ as heaven and earth ; 
 But women, worst and best, as heaven and hell." 
 
 AVlio has not heard of the ferocious actions of a drunken woman ; 
 and do not the daily papers bear witness to the fact that, once 
 roused, a woman will perpetrate far greater cruelty than a man ? 
 Did not the petroleuses of Paris wander about like she-demons of 
 the nether world ? What spectacle is more calculated to inspire 
 horror than a savage and brutal woman in a passion ? and when 
 we imagine such to be besprinkled with the blood of the slain, 
 and perhaps carrying the gory head of some decapitated victim, 
 one may cease to wonder at the dread with which these female 
 warriors were, and still are, looked upon by the suiTounding 
 nations. 
 
 I cannot think that their forced celibacy renders them more 
 ferocious, as though venting their chagrin at the total deprivation 
 of love, to which they are subject, upon their enemies. On the 
 contrary, I believe that if an army of married soldieresses were 
 possible, they would be found to be equally cruel with these 
 spinster-warriors, if not to surpass them in their ferocity. Cer- 
 tainly the sour temper, ever characteristic of the old maid, may 
 have something to do with it ; and, knowing that she has been born 
 -y^V and lived without performing the functions for which her sex was 
 ^/" intended, she may have become imbued with a bitter spirit of 
 '^ animosity against all men, whether soldiers .or privates, and so find 
 a gratification of this morbid feeling in the slaughter that 
 necessarily accompanies a fight. 
 
 Indeed, now that the subject of female emplojTnent is so 
 prominent before the public mind, it would, in many cases, be a 
 happy release from their relatives if all the old maids could be en- 
 listed, and trained to vent their feline spite and mischief-making 
 propensities on the enemies of the country, instead of their 
 neighbours. At any rate, they would be removed out of the way 
 
 /
 
 CHAP. XXV. DEGENERACY OF THE FFONS. 469 
 
 of the sycophantic parasites, who invariably hover round them, 
 should they be possessed of any property, in the hopo of cajoling 
 them out of it. Instances are not by any means rare, of females 
 who have donned the soldier's uniform, and fought bravely side 
 by- side, not taking into consideration such heroines as Joan of 
 Arc, Margaret of Anjou, Boadicea, and a host of others. Indeed, 
 what is there less feminine in the life of a soldier, than in that of 
 the new race of Dr. Mary Walkers who are now springing up 
 around us ? As for physical endurance, do not scores of char- 
 women and laundresses drag out a life of literal slavery, 
 compared to which the hardships of a campaign would be nothing, 
 and which may come once in a while, instead of being lifelong ? 
 
 Nevertheless, there can be no doubt that the Amazonian army 
 of Dahomey is one of the causes of its slow decadence. The 
 proportion of celibates is too great for the population, being 
 somewhat about three to one. 
 
 Four thousand women represent twelve thousand children, the // 
 greater part of whom are lost to the state, which cannot afford 
 such a drain. 
 
 This, combined with the losses by disease and war, is one of the 
 fertile sources of the national loss of prestige, which is only too 
 true ; and ere long, unless there is a change, Dahomey will have 
 to be classed amon"; the nations that have been.
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE DAHOMAN RELIGION. 
 
 General ignorance of the religions of savage nations — Man — Kutomen — The 
 Bassajeh — Fatalism — A journey to spirit-land — Fetichism — Dahn — 
 Ophiolatry — Alinbodim — Hu — Khevioso — The Bo-fetiche — Legba — Minor 
 deities — Afa — Tabooed food — The priesthood — Ecstasy. 
 
 Perhaps nothing is so remarkable on visiting the factories 
 situated on the outposts of civilization, as the utter indifference 
 of the people in charge with regard to the manners and customs 
 of the savage tribes among whom they reside. 
 
 Often have I come across persons who have lived for many 
 years in constant coinmunication with a rude people, and, on my 
 seeking for information, have found that they were as ignorant of 
 the mode of life of their neighbours as if they had remained at 
 home. The consequence of this* is, that when a traveller comes 
 among them who will use his eyes and tongue and who after- 
 wards publishes an account of the peoi^le he has visited, the 
 residents pooh-pooh his account, and deny his assertions ; saying, 
 that " they never saw anything of the kind, and surely they ought 
 to know, after having lived as many years among the people as 
 the writer did weeks." Even when a slight notice is taken of the 
 social arrangements of the people, the religious customs are 
 totally neglected. 
 
 Although we have had intercourse with the Dahomans for over 
 two centuries. Burton was the first traveller who made any 
 attempt to fathom the mysterious rites of the fetichism which for 
 the most part forms the national beHef of Dahomey.
 
 oiAr. XXVI. THE DAHOMAX DEITY. 461 
 
 J he Dahoman religion consists of two parts, totally distinct from 
 L other. First, the belief in a supreme being, and, second, the 
 beuef in a whole host of minor deities. , 
 
 The supreme being is called the Mau, and is vested with 
 unlimited authority over every being, both spiritual and carnal. 
 He is supposed to be of so high a nature as to care very little 
 for the circumstances of men, and his attention is only directed 
 to them by some special invocation. He resides in a won- 
 derful dwelling above the sky, and commits the care of earthly 
 affairs to a race of beings, such as leopards, snakes, locusts, 
 or crocodiles, and also to inanimate objects, such as stones, rags, 
 cowries, leaves of certain trees, and, in short, anything and 
 everything. 
 
 This deity is said to be the same as the God of civilization ; but 
 the white man has a freer access to Him than the negro, who is 
 therefore obliged to resort to mediators. Hence the origin of 
 fetichism. Mau is in every respect an anthropopathical deity, 
 having his likes and dislikes, and being influenced in his 
 actions by the prayers and offerings of his worshippers. j\Iau 
 has an assistant who keeps a record of the good or evil deeds of 
 every person by means of a stick, the good works being notched 
 on one end, and the bad ones on the other. 
 
 When a person dies, his body(!) is judged by the balance struck 
 between the two ends of the stick. If the good preponderates, it 
 is permitted to join the spirit in Kutomen, or " Dead land ;" but 
 if, on the contrary, the evil outweighs the good, it is utterly 
 destroyed, and a new body created for the use of the spirit. AVith 
 this single exception, all rewards and punishments are given in 
 " this w^orld." No matter how bad a man's life may be, if he 
 can only escape punishment on earth, his spirit is released from 
 all the consequences of its wrong-doing, and whatever may be the 
 social condition of the person at the moment of his death, so will 
 he remain for all eternity. Hence, earthly kings are kings in 
 spirit-land, and the slave on earth is the slave hereafter. There is 
 no Hell in the Semitic sense, and the place of judgment of the
 
 462 THE DAHOMAN RELIGION. chap. xxvi. 
 
 body hardly corresponds to the Purgatory of the Roman Catholic 
 faith. 
 
 In short, the " hereafter " of the Dahoman is an eternal 
 continuance of the state of being enjoyed by the deceased when on 
 earth. The ghosts are supposed to take a great interest in 
 worldly affaii's, and to secretly impress the mind of their proteges 
 with the good advice that their knowledge of the future enables 
 them to impart. These proteges arc invariably the descendants of 
 the ghost, unless some flagrant act of disobedience against the 
 commands of the father, on the part of the child, causes the 
 enraged parent to withdraw his protection, and to confer it upon 
 a stranger. 
 
 This belief is the one great stumbling-block against the abo- 
 lition of the human sacrifices at the Customs. The suppression 
 of these would be looked upon by the popular eye as a direct 
 insult to the protecting spirits of the country, and a general revolt 
 would be the inevitable consequence. 
 
 Besides the ghostly advice that is administered in secret, the 
 Dahoman monarchs have special mediums in the Bassajeh already 
 mentioned. An application to these holy women, on the part of 
 the monarch will ensure a reply. yThe common folk must fipply 
 to a fetiche priest of great sanctity, who will act the part of a 
 medium between the present and the future world Perhaps it 
 may be a comfort to the " spiritualists " of the present day, to 
 know that their hobby is no new thing. Nihil sub lumiue 
 novum. 
 
 The Dahomans are to a certain extent fatalists, since they 
 imagine that to each person a double set of deeds are appointed, 
 the one being good, and the other evil. Each person, however, 
 has the power to avert the consequence of the evil deeds, by 
 certain offerings paid to the deity, not direct, but through the 
 medium of one of the interlocutory mediators. 
 
 The Dahoman therefore considers this present life as only a 
 means of attaining an eternal status. Earth is only a temporary 
 dwelling-place ; Hades is their " home." There is nothing of the
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 FETICHE MESSENGERS. 
 
 163 
 
 Sadducee in the Dahoman ; on tlie contrary, the most trivial 
 actions are mixed up with ghostly influence. Certain priests 
 pretend to have visited Kutomen, just as in every Popish monkery 
 
 I'lilNUK UAU.UNSU'S FETI(JHE-110U.-jE (*tc JJ((yt 440). 
 
 there is a picture of Purgatory painted under the instruction, or 
 from the sketches, of some Saint who has visited it. The priests 
 who most frequently take these infernal journeys arc those of
 
 464 THE DAIIOMAX KELIGIOX. CHAP. xxvi. 
 
 the Dalm, tlic Sapatan, the Gbwcjeli, the Attin Bodun, and the 
 Guh. 
 
 Of course, the medicine-man and the priest are allies, in 
 general one individual combining the two offices in his person. ^ 
 AYhcn a patient is afflicted with a disease which has resisted the 
 application of any of the "all -powerful'* medicines of the doctor, 
 he usually announces that the sufferer is not labouring under 
 disease, but has been summoned to Dead land by one of his 
 spectral friends. The morbid fear of death usually impels the 
 patient to pay the doctor or priest a handsome fee for him to visit 
 KutomeU) and beg to be excused from attending to the summons. 
 If the patient recovers, it is of course owing to the intercession of 
 the priest, whose fame goes abroad ; but if he dies, the subterfuge 
 is that the ghostly inquirer would not accept any excuse for the 
 non-attendance of the person subpoonaed. 
 
 Upon one occasion, I saw a priest who was about to depart on 
 a visit to Hades. He received his fee beforehand, cautious fellow, 
 and then went into an empty shed near the patient's house. He 
 then drew a circle on the ground, and took out of his " possible 
 sack" a number of charms, all tied up in blood-stained rags. 
 »Squatting down on the centre of this magic circle, and bidding us 
 upon no account to step within it, he covered himself \\dth a 
 large square of grey baft, profusely ornamented with tufts of 
 magic. In a few minutes, he commenced to mutter some unin- 
 telligible sounds in a low voice, his body and limbs quivering like 
 an aspen. Half an hour of this farce ensued, when the fetichcer 
 uncovered himself, and prepared to deliver the message. He said 
 that he had found considerable difficulty in obtaining access to the 
 ghost who had summoned the patient, as when he knew that a 
 priest was coming he hid in the bush. He said that the ghost was 
 that of Nuage (one of the sick man's dead uncles), and that he 
 was much offended by this summons not being answered in person, 
 but in consideration of certain sacrifices offered to Guh he would 
 think over the matter, llather an ambiguous answer, but just 
 In the prevaricating way affected by all priests, whether in Japan
 
 CHAP. XXVI. DAHOMAN METEMPSYCHOSIS. 465 
 
 or on the Yellow-stone. From the statements of these priests, it 
 appears that life in the other world is much the same as in this, 
 " — wars, palavers, feasts, dances, and other incidents going on 
 much in the same style as on earth. It appears that the clothes 
 in which the deceased is huricd accompany him to Kutomen, for 
 sometimes a priest will hring back with him a necklace, bead, or 
 other small article, known to have been buried with the corpse of 
 the person who summons the sick man. Burton mentions the 
 case of a man who, " after returning with a declaration that he 
 had left a marked coin in Dead land, dropped it from his waist- 
 cloth at the feet of the payer, while drinking rum." A very 
 careless priest that. 
 
 Another singular belief is that of the possibility of the same 
 spirit being in more than one place at the same time. This was 
 exemplified in the So-Sin Custom, where Gezu's ghost was in his 
 shed, on his war-stool, and in his own Bassajeh at one and the 
 same instant of time. Again, a ghost will sometimes remain in 
 Dead land, and also come back to earth in the body of a new 
 infant; and, in fact, nearly all the king's children are but the 
 transmigrated spirits of the old kings. Hahansu, for example, was 
 declared to have the spirit of Agongolu, his grandfather, mthin him. 
 Agongolu's name, when a prince, was Hahansu, wherefore the 
 heir to the throne of Dahomey took that name. 
 
 The mediators between the Mau and humankind arc propitiated 
 through the various objects they inhabit. The occurrence of 
 these go-betweens with their material existence mciinly owes its 
 existence to the fact of the mind of the African uot being able to 
 grasp the fact of a deity asomatous and ubiquitous. The deity 
 must either be worshipped through the medium of an intervener, 
 who has a tangible form, or the religion must be reduced to 
 anthropomorphism. \ Dahomans deny the corporeal existence of 
 the deity, but ascribe human passions to him ; a singular medley. 
 Their religion must not be confounded with polytheism, for they 
 only worship one God, Mau, but propitiate him through the 
 intervention of the fetiches, who are not inferior deities, but only
 
 466 THE DAHOMAX EELIGION. chap. xxvi. 
 
 beings of an Intermediate order, like tlie angels of Christendom, 
 who have powerful influence for good or evil with Mau. 
 
 Of these fetiches, four hold a suj^erior ranlc to the others. 
 They are Danh-gbwe, Atin-bodun, Hu, and Khevyosoh. Danh, the 
 first in order, is the most powerful fetiche in the country. It is the 
 tutelary saint of "Whydah, and its worship was introduced into 
 the national religion when that kingdom was conquered. Its 
 emblem, the snake, and its temple have been described. Ophio- 
 latry is a prevalent form of fetichism in Africa. I have noticed 
 it amongst the Mpongwes and BakaU of Gaboon, and it exists 
 among the Niger tribes and amongst the Ashantees. Though so 
 powerful, its aid was insufficient to protect the Whydahs from the 
 conquering Agajah ; but the old worshippers still held faith in 
 their deity, and were highly pleased when it was introduced at 
 Abomey. Snake-worship, indeed, appears to have been one of 
 the earliest forms of idolatry, for we find it amongst the Ancient 
 Egyptians, and the brazen serpent which Moses " lifted in the 
 mlderness" was no doubt a symbol derived from the religion of 
 the Pharaohs. "\Ye hear of it in the earliest accounts of the 
 Allemanic nations, and Brahminism stiU bears it as one of its 
 emblems. Even among the Moslem Feloops and Mandingoes 
 traces of ophiolatry exist, and Burton mentions the King Snake 
 of Sierra Leone. 
 
 The snake is supposed to be almost omnipotent in procuring 
 the welfare of its devotees, and no undertaking of any import- 
 ance is commenced without sacrificing to it. It has no image, 
 the worship being confined to the adoration of the living 
 snakes, which are kept in the Danh-gbwehweh in all the prin- 
 cipal towns. The devotee goes to the temple and pays a heavy 
 fee to the priest, who dismisses the worshipper with the assur- 
 ance that his wishes shall be attended to. These snakes are a 
 nuisance to the people residing near their temples. My house in 
 Coomassie was so situated, and at night the reptilian deities often 
 wandered into my courtyard. Upon one occasion I had been 
 sleeping on the Pwe earth bed, and at midnight awoke, as was
 
 CHAP. XXVI. WOESHIP OF THE SXAKE AND ATIX-BODUN. 4G7 
 
 customary, and prepared to rise to look at my meteorological 
 instruments. While sitting lialf asleep, with, my legs hanging 
 over the edge of the Pwe bench, I noticed something white and 
 shining on the ground beneath my feet. A closer inspection 
 revealed a fine python, eighteen feet long, slowly crawling along 
 on his way back to the fetiche-house. Lucky was I not to have 
 trodden upon the creature, for he would certainly have avenged 
 himself upon me, and my people would have been too frightened 
 of his magic powers to have rendered me any assistance. I 
 roused out Joe, who brought a light, and Ave examined the 
 splendid reptile as it slowly crawled out of the courtyard. 
 
 The Snake Priests, or Danh-si (snake wives), are extremely 
 numerous. Burton says 1000. Strange is the fact *that the most 
 profitable fetiches generally have the most priests. These are of 
 both sexes — married or single — and of various ranks. The high 
 officials, after a preliminary course of instruction at Whydah, 
 finish off at the fetiche town of Somorne, near Alladah. 
 
 The next deity in importance is Atin-bodun, whose earthly 
 form is that of various trees, while its domestic abode is in some 
 curious specimen of ceramic art. First is a red cullender, stuck 
 bottom upwards, on a little earthen step at the foot of some bush 
 or young tree growing at the house door ; on the right of this is 
 a small goolah-shaped vessel, with a narrow neck, and generally 
 whitewashed outside. The worshij) of Atin-bodun consists in 
 faith in its power of averting and curing disease, especially fever, 
 and in offering small quantities of water, which is poured into 
 the little pot. Of course this is the tutelary saint of all physi- 
 cians. Any tall tree is considered to be inhabited by this deity, 
 but those especially sacred to it are the Hun, or silk-cotton tree, and 
 the Loko, or poison tree, a decoction of whose leaves is used as an 
 ordeal to detect any hidden crime. Wo find an analogy to this 
 worship) in the mistletoe of the Druids, nay, even in the holly and 
 May-pole, and among foreign nations in the sacred tree of the 
 ]Mohammedans, the holy fig of Buddhists, and the aklakan of the 
 Cherokee Indians. The Atinb-odun-si, or priests, number 
 
 n 11 ii
 
 4(58 THE DAHOMAN RELIGIOIf. chap. xxvi. 
 
 almost as many as those of the snake, but they are not of so high 
 
 an order. 
 
 Next in precedence is Hu, the Dahoman Neptune. Like thb 
 
 . . . "" 
 
 former two fetiches, this is also a Whydah deity, and still holds 
 
 the head-quarters of his worship at that town, where the high- 
 priest or Huno resides. A temple near the snake-house is the 
 great shrine of this deity, a dilapidated hut, with hones, skulls, 
 sharks' jaws, and other curiosities suspended from the thatched 
 roof within the bare walls. 
 
 Hu is supposed to have no particular dwelling, but has given 
 the sea at Whydah in charge of Agbweh. At the end of the 
 dry season the Huno marches in great state, accompanied by a 
 long train of priests, to the beach, and propitiates the goodwill of 
 Agbweh by an offering of maize, bananas, rum, cloth, &c. 
 
 The little huts erected on the beach are small temples sacred 
 to this god, where canoe-men offer donations of food to induce the 
 deity to give them a smooth sea. Formerly the king was accus- 
 tomed to send a man, dressed as a caboceer, wdth umbrella, stool, 
 beads, and other insignia of his rank, to the beach, where he was 
 placed in a canoe by the Huno, and, after sundry offerings and 
 paryers, carried out to sea and thrown overboard. I believe 
 this practice is now happily discontinued. The emblems of this 
 deity are small canoes stuck over with shells and mounted on 
 a little heap of swish. 
 
 VLast of the four principal fetiches is Khevyosoh, the thunder- 
 god, who may be taken as the Dahoman Jupiter. 
 
 He presides over the weather, and punishes those who do 
 not please him with the abi, or lightning. A person killed 
 by lightning is supposed to have fallen under the especial dis- 
 pleasure of the deity, and a ban of excommunication is passed 
 upon the body by the Khevyosoh-si. The corpse is not allowed 
 to be buried, but is brought to the Khevyosoh-ho, or thunder 
 temple, and there stripped stark naked. A heap of beaten earth 
 outside the temple is then deluged with water and the body 
 laid on it. The priests, male and female, then march round it.
 
 CHAP. XXVI. THE THUNDER-GOD. 469 
 
 carrying bowls containing salt, pepper, and lumps of goats' flesli. 
 The body is then hacked with the knives of the priests, who 
 pretend to eat lumps of the flesh, but in reality devour the 
 goats' meat in the calabashes.^ During this pseudo-cannibalistic 
 rite they cry out, "Come and buy God's meat." Burton erro- 
 neously states that the flesh of the corpse is chewed ; he is 
 mistaken. 
 
 We now come to the secondary deities. 
 
 Of these the most powerful is Bo, the Dahoman Mars, who 
 takes all brave men under his protection, and leaves all cowards 
 to the mercy of their enemies. His temples 'are usually conical 
 huts, placed at every town gate and cross road, and covering 
 a rude swish deformity of the human figure, copiously besmeared 
 wdth blood and cowries, and altogether a disgusting object. 
 The priests of this deity number over a thousand, and are, of 
 course, held in great veneration among so warlike a people as 
 the Dahomans. The tufts sewn on the war dresses are all Bo 
 fetiche, so also are the blood-stained cowries on guns, uniform, 
 and cartridge belts. The horsetails carried by the (?aboceers 
 when dancing are also Bo fetiche, and the gunpowder streaks 
 on the face of the king doubtless have some connection with 
 this deity. The domestic emblems of the god are the Bo-so, 
 little altars of round truncheons stuck in the ground, like the 
 fasces of the Roman lictors, and painted in alternate bands of 
 red and white. So also are the small wooden images, red, black, 
 or yellow, that are exhibited during the Customs, stuck in the 
 ground before a row of fetiche cressets, or devoutly placed in a 
 little niche in the wall of a house, much after the style of the 
 Homan Catholic crucifix. 
 
 The next deity in importance is Legba, the Dahoman 
 .Priapus, whose little huts are to be met with in every street. 
 This deity is of either sex, a male and female Legba often 
 residing in the same temple. A squat swish image, rudely 
 moulded into the grossest caricature on the human form, sitting 
 with hands on knees, with gaping mouth and the special attri-
 
 470 THE DilHOMAN RELIGIOX. chap. xxvi. 
 
 butes developed to an ungainl}^ size. Teeth of cowries usually 
 fill the clo^Ti-like mouth, and ears standing out from the head, 
 like a bat's, are only surpassed in their monstrosity by the 
 snowshoe-shaped feet. The nose is broad, even for a negro's, 
 and altogether the deity is anything but a fascinating object. 
 Round the deity is a fence of knobbed sticks, daubed -svith 
 filthy slime, and before the god is a flat saucer of red earthen- 
 ware, which contains the oSerings. When a person wishes to 
 increase his family he calls in a Lcgba priest and gives him a 
 fowl, some cankie, palm-oil, and some water. A fire is lighted, 
 and the cankie, water, and pahn-oil mixed together and put 
 in the saucer. The fowl is then killed by placing the head, 
 between the great and second toes of the priest, who severs it 
 from the body by a jerk. The head is then swung over the 
 person of the worshipper, to allow the blood to drop upon him, 
 while the bleeding body is held over a little dish, which catches 
 the blood. The fowl is then semi-roasted on a fire lighted 
 near, and the priest, taking the dish of blood, smears the body 
 of the deity with it, finallj' taking some of the blood into his 
 mouth and sputtering it over the god. The fowl is then eaten 
 by the priest, and I suppose the wives of the devotees have twins 
 immediately. 
 
 Akwashi, a Mahi deity presiding over childbirth, is perhaps 
 best introduced here. She has a shrine on the Ishagga road, 
 near Abomey. 
 
 The deity held in the next degree of reverence is Hobo, the 
 preserver of twins. Its pottery is knouTi as Hozen, and consists 
 of two little earthen bowls like teacups or paint pots, united 
 by a short bar of red clay and covered with round lids. The 
 pots are usually thickly coated with whitewash, and the offer- 
 ing is nothing more expensive than water, or rum on great 
 occasions. Behind this is usually stuck one or more Asen, iron 
 flfi'airs like the cressets of mediaeval times, ornamented with 
 cowries and usually provided with calico cases. 
 
 We then come to Gbwejeh, the Diana of the country. Her
 
 CHAP. XXVI. VARIOUS MIXOR FETICHES. 471 
 
 emblem is a small snake coiled up, and painted Avhite with red 
 spots. All huntsmen offer sacrifices of water or rum to this deity, 
 and it is the tutelary saint of the Gan-u-nlan Company and the 
 Gbe-to hunters among the Amazons. 
 
 ■ Ajaruma is the next fetiche, in whose custody all the Euro- 
 peans at Whydah are placed. The temple is in the garden 
 of the English fort, where a dilapidated shed covers a white- 
 washed tree stump, stained red at the top, with a white avo 
 round the line of junction of the two coloui's. 
 
 Zo, the god of fire, perhaps claims the next rank. 
 
 A small pot of the porringer species, usually striped red and 
 black, is placed in the fetiche-house that is erected in every house 
 of any pretensions. Offerings of water are made to this deity, 
 and a string of grass-rope with palm leaflets attached to it is 
 hung round every house, and, together with a white streak 
 encircKng the building breast high, is far better than any fire 
 insurance policy against pecuniary loss through the breaking out 
 of the igneous element. 
 
 The next two gods are under the immediate command of 
 Atin-bodun. The first is Sapatan, the goddess for small-pox. 
 This national scourge is warded off by an oblong affair of clay, 
 divided into two equal parts, one of which is sone of broken 
 pieces of pottery stuck in on their edges, and the other by 
 cowries. Another altar for this god is a clay oblong, painted red 
 on the right side and white on the left. Behind these is the 
 usual Asen. Every palace has a number of these scattered about, 
 for the small-pox had taken off three of the eight Dahoman 
 monarchs. 
 
 The second goddess is the Demon, a Mahi fetiche which pre- 
 sides over the chastity of the Amazons. Over a certain gate in 
 every palace, which is known as the Abo-dewe, a " gate to find out 
 your crime," a bunch of fetiche charms is suspended, which by 
 virtue of Demon will cause certain pregnancy in the transgressor. 
 Such a goddess is highly necessary among so miscellaneous a 
 collection of women.
 
 472 THE DAHOMAN EELIGION. CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 We now come to the national ^dile, Aizan. This god 
 preserves all travellers from the evil spii'its infesting the roads, 
 gnomes, and folks of that ilk. Every market and town gate 
 is under its protection, and its pottery is seen along all the 
 roads in the countrj- — a heap of clay, surmounted by a small 
 round pot containing a decomposing mixture of cankie, jiatfli- 
 oil, &c. 
 
 The following deities are the protecting or patron saints of 
 various places : — 
 
 1. Agasun, the original fetiche of Uhwaweh, before Abomey was 
 conquered by the Ffons and the empire of Dahomey founded. 
 It is held in great reverence, and its high-priest, the Agasun-no, 
 is the greatest feticheer in Abomey — a sort of local pope. The 
 emblem of Agasun is a curious affair, like a harp without strings, 
 before which the usual porringer is set out, and oblations of- rum 
 poui'ed out. The head-quarters are at Bwemeh, to the south of 
 Abomey, where the palace of the Agasun-no is situated. 
 
 2. Leh, an old Whydah fetiche, whose head- quarters were 
 near Savi. Its emblem is a crocodile. 
 
 3.. Dohen, an old fetiche of "Whydah, whose special province 
 it was to call vessels to that port. I know nothing of its temple 
 nor its worship. 
 
 4. Isesu, the tutelary deity of Abomey, introduced by Agaja. 
 The temples called ]S^esu-hwe are its special shrines, and the Sin- 
 JKwain Custom is the great feast in its honom-. The waterpots 
 known as Bagwch are the receptacles for its offerings. 
 
 The remaining deities are of various kinds. 
 
 Lisa, the sun, the incarnation of Khevy^osoh. This god is 
 worshipped when the crops are ripening, by sacrificing fowls and 
 -doves to it. Its emblem is a pecuhar teapot-shaped affair, 
 striped diagonally red and white. The lid is usually surmounted 
 by a chamelion. 
 
 Agaman,.the chameleon, the messenger for Lisa. 
 
 This animal is usually quartered red and white. Pots of water 
 ni'c placed before it.
 
 MIXOR DAHOMAN FETICHES. 473 
 
 Mau, the moon fetiche, which guards the sleejiing Dahomans. 
 I know nothing of its worship. Its priestesses wear long neck- 
 laces of cowi'ies with black seeds between each pair. / 
 
 Kpate, a canonised Whydah man, who first enticed Europeans 
 to the town. His emblem is a tree stump with a white rag tied 
 round it. 
 
 Kpase, the assistant of Kpate, according to Bui'ton. 
 
 Danh, the Rainbow Snake, whose conciliation is necessary to 
 all who wish to amass riches. The large clay snake, with the 
 scarlet feathers of the grey parrot stuck in for horns, is its 
 emblem. Before this is a whitewashed pot. The ants are sup- 
 posed to be the messengers for the Rainbow snake, and ant hills 
 are supposed to be the " bush " houses for Danh, The highly 
 valued popo beads are supposed to be the excrement of Danh. 
 
 Agbwetoh, a sea deity, who assists Agbweh to keep the sea 
 smooth. 
 
 Nateh, the person who has charge of the fish in the sea. In 
 his honour little huts are erected on the beach, within which is a 
 conical heap of clay, stuck full of fish-bones. 
 
 Avreketeh, the fetiche who steals the keys from Nateh and 
 gives to man — hence he has some 500 wives (Burton). He . 
 has a shrine near Abomey. I know nothing of this deity. 
 
 Tokpodun, the alligator worshipped at Savi and xilladah as 
 the god of wisdom. His emblem is the clay aUigator, quarterly 
 gules and argent on a raised step. 
 
 Takpwonun, the hippopotamus, supposed to confer strength 
 and far-sightedness upon its worshippers. 
 
 Kpo, the leopard, a special fetiche for the king. It is the 
 cause of the courageous and magnanimous actions of the 
 monarch. 
 
 Guh, the deity who presides over blacksmiths in the manufac- 
 ture of hoes, knives, &c. 
 
 Besides these, every person has as many private fetiches as his 
 means will allow him to purchase. These are of every possible 
 description. Rude clay models of animals, birds of clay or wood,
 
 474 
 
 THE DAHOMAX RELIGIOX. 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 curious sticks stuck over with, feathers, shells, melons suspended 
 from the roof, texts from the Koran, purchased from the 
 Moslem \'isitors, and anything else that strikes the fancy of the 
 owner. 
 
 Lastly is tlie peculiar worship of Afa, the god of ^dsdom. 
 This divinity is consulted upon every occasion by all who can 
 afford a fowl or pigeon to pay the fees. It is the Dahoman 
 representative of the Grecian geomancy, a custom prevalent all 
 the world over. It is performed by sixteen palm-nuts, denuded 
 of the husk, and then marked -wdth peculiar mystic hieroglyphics. 
 The book of fate is a board about two feet long and six inches 
 broad, with a handle at one end. One side of this contains 
 sixteen series or marks called the " mothers," and the other a 
 similar number of " children," formed by the combination of the 
 mothers' marks. Eacb mother has a special symbol, to which 
 certain mystic properties are assigned, such, as giving the diviner 
 luck in hunting, sowing, war-palavers, house-building, &c. 
 Certain days are sacred to certain mothers, and the diviner always 
 consults Afa as to the proper day to commence any important 
 undertaking, as marrying a new wife, building a house, or sowing 
 com. 
 
 The following is a list of the Afa marks : — 
 
 1. Bwe Magi, the head mother. 
 
 i. Di Magi. 
 
 
 Symbol — Six dots in s 
 
 L square. 
 
 ■ Symbol — A triangle with a dot in it 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2. Yeku Magi. 
 
 
 
 5. Losu Magi. 
 
 
 Symbol — Two circles ( 
 
 Jon joined. 
 
 Symbol — A cross in a circle. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3. Ooe Magi Wudde. 
 
 
 C. Tram Magi. 
 
 
 Symbol — A 
 
 square. 
 
 
 Symbol— Tw 
 
 triangles with their 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 apices together. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 AFA GEOMAXCT. 
 
 475 
 
 7. Abla Magi, or Unun. 
 
 Symbol — A circle with a triangle 
 
 in it. 
 
 Akli Magi. 
 
 Symbol — A square with a circle in 
 it. 
 
 9. Ba Magi. 
 
 Symbol — Two squares. 
 
 10. Guda Magi. 
 
 Symbol — Two circles in a square. 
 
 11. Tumpwu Magi. 
 
 Symbol — A five-pointed star. 
 2 2 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 
 
 12. Tula Magi. 
 Symbol — A crescent. 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 13. Lete Magi. 
 
 Symbol — Two stars and a dash, 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 14. Ka Magi. 
 Symbol — A trident. 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 
 2 2 
 
 15. Che Magi. 
 
 Symbol — Two triangles in a circle, 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 
 2 - 2 
 2 2 
 
 16. FuMagi. 
 SjTubol — Two stars, 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 1 
 
 2 2 
 1 1 
 
 The first and the last of these are the most powerful, and their 
 
 children are also of the most importance. These are formed hy 
 
 taking the right side of one and the left side of another mother. 
 
 Thus 2 1 is the child of Bwe Magi and Yeku Magi, and so 
 
 2 1 on. The nuts are held in one hand and thrown 
 
 2 1 into the other, one or two being dropped intentionally 
 
 2 1 on the ground during the throw. If one nut is left, 
 
 a single mark is made, and if two a couple. If more than two 
 
 are left, the throw is void. When a mother is found, the day 
 
 denoted by its symbol is propitious for the business inquired about.
 
 476 THE DAHOMAN RELIGION. chap. xxvi. 
 
 If a child is cast, no particular day is more propitious than 
 another. Those simple answers of " yes" or " no " can be obtained 
 -by every person, but there are certain events connected with the 
 sequence of the mothers and qhildi'en, together with a mystical 
 association between the diviner and one of the mothers, which 
 <!an only be learned from one of the Bukono. Accordingly, as 
 soon as any person can scrape together a sufficient fee, he " gets 
 Afa," as it is called. He brings a duck, goat, sheep, or bullock, 
 "with cowries varying in quantity from ten to a hundred heads, 
 according to his rank. These he presents to the diviner, and is 
 instructed in the mysteries. The two consult Afa in a sacred 
 grove, unseen by profane eyes, and there the Bukono discovers 
 the symbol connected with the birth of the neophyte. He then 
 casts to find the symbol of the ancestor whose spirit is in the 
 pupil, and the combination or children of these two " mothers " 
 have peculiar signification to the student. Then the particular 
 food whose use is prejudicial to the pupil is announced, and such 
 is tabooed to the neophyte. Sheep are frequently tabooed to the 
 lower orders, and upon one occasion, when Hahansu had presented 
 one to me and I was annoyed by the importunities of the jesters 
 and their " tail," I hung the skin at my gate, and was rejoiced 
 to see the greater portion turn back with a shudder from the 
 unholy food. The selection of prohibited objects includes palm- 
 wine, goats, cankies, rum, and in short everything, and par- 
 ticular modes and places of j)erforming certain actions are 
 debarred from the pupil. For example, Amoosu could not eat 
 chop with his back to the moon. Egblie-egbah could not light a 
 fire, and one of the porters was not allowed to drink rum without 
 offering the cup to another person beforehand. 
 
 As might be expected, but little is taught the neoph}i;e, the 
 grand secrets being the stock-in-trade of the Bukono, who drive 
 a brisk business with the repeated consultations of the people. 
 In short, Afa is the medium of communication between men and 
 gods, and when a sacrifice has been offered to any deity, Afa is
 
 CHAP. XXVI. FETICHE ECSTASY. 477 
 
 consulted to ascertain if the jiropitiation of the god has been 
 effected. 
 
 In Dahomey there is none of the barbarous cruelty which 
 inevitably results from a belief in mtchcraft. No Ffon believes 
 that any person can injure any other by any prayers, incanta- 
 tions, or ceremonials, since all are under the care of a Supreme 
 Being who mil not delegate his authority to any mortal. A man 
 may influence the gods on his own behalf, but with regard to the 
 fate of others he is powerlessj "We therefore see none of the 
 inhuman butcheries such as are practised in Equatorial Africa, 
 where no person can die without submitting his nearest and 
 dearest relatives to the suspicion of having bewitched him, and if 
 ever the suspicion rests upon any individual he is doomed and 
 put to death often with a refinement of cruelty truly devilish in 
 its character. 
 
 The Snake Priests are recruited in the manner before men- 
 tioned',' but the other sections of the clergy are generally hereditary, 
 though occasionally a layman is initiated into the mysteries, of 
 course after the payment of heavy fees. 
 
 A case of abnormal brain-action or ecstasy has already been 
 mentioned. The candidate for orders is usually kept totally 
 secluded, and his feelings worked upon by mysterious noises and 
 ejaculations, which are kept up for a certain period, generally 
 about a month. If at the end of that time the fetiche has not 
 declared itself, the candidate is dismissed as unfit for the priest- 
 hood. 
 
 The inspiration generally takes the form of ecstasy, and the 
 subject talks wildly, and often has to be held down by main force 
 to prevent him doing himself injury by his violent actions. This 
 fit usually lasts about half an hour, and has such a powerful 
 effect upon the sufferer that he usually faints as soon as its 
 violence is over. 
 
 On recovery he tells his instructor that he has seen some vision, 
 which the priests announce as some deity, such as Khevyosoh, 
 
 1 Page oG.
 
 478 THE DAHOMAN EELIGIOX. chap. xxvi. 
 
 Zo, or others ; and the neophyte is thus summoned to the priest- 
 hood of that particular deity. 
 
 This peculiar mesmeric trance is by no means confined to the 
 Dahomans. Roman and Grecian history mentions it. The 
 medicine men of the North American Indians work themselves 
 into a similar frenzy, and the " calls " of fanatic Methodists, 
 Shakers, Mormons, Spiritualists, and other modern sects may be 
 traced to the effect of impressive pseudo-sacred, awe-inspiring 
 speeches and actions upon the overworked and excited brain. 
 ^VTio amongst us has not occasionally seen some street preacher 
 denouncing all the terrors of the law worked up in the blue fire, 
 blood-and-thunder style of a penny gaff, and at length so exciting 
 the feelings of some hysterical female as to cause her to utter the 
 most wild, incoherent sapngs in an apparent unconscious condi- 
 tion, that has been sometimes called " the spirit of prophecy ? " 
 The more ignorant the disciple the easier does the spirit descend, 
 and it is very singular that these prophecies should be often 
 accompanied by unpolished English and misquoted texts of 
 Scripture. 
 
 There may, perhaps, be some hidden meaning in this ecstasy, 
 such as Spiritualists would induce us to believe, and which 
 mediums are so anxious to set forth, notwithstanding there always 
 appears to me to be too much of the convenient ambiguity of the 
 dream-book and the gipsy fortune-teller about the revelations. 
 Most certainly I have seen instances of the mesmeric trance in 
 persons who, like myself, have been endeavouring to fathom the 
 mystery, unbiassed by any religious or interested feeling whatever; 
 and though fully believing that it is an action of the brain 
 totally uninfluenced by the external sen^s, yet I cannot as yet, 
 in the present embryo state of the theory, bring myself to believe 
 that it has any more connection with prophecy or Spirit-land than 
 table-turning, spirit-rapping, or such " humbugs." 
 
 The peculiar deity having thus declared itself, the acolyte is 
 instructed in the worshii) of the god and in the mysteries of the 
 calling. Many have a peculiar language or " cant " by which
 
 HAP. XXVI. THE rEIESTHOOD. 479 
 
 tliey impress the ignorant with a sense of their holinessjin which 
 they are not by any means singular, since the de\il can quote 
 Scripture for the attainment of his ends. 
 
 -During this matriculation the friends and parents of the 
 neophyte have to pay the priest for subsistence and instruction, 
 until in about three years the disciple is considered to be fully 
 instructed in all the m}-steries of dancing, singing, praying, 
 taking Afa and other equally sacred ceremonials, the agglomera- 
 tion of which is called religious worship. 
 
 A final call is then made upon the friends of the candidate, 
 who returns to his kindred for a short time before ordination, after 
 which he must renounce all the influence which his relations 
 might have upon him to procui'e stronger fetiches for them at 
 a price below the authorized tariff. Finally, he is taken to the 
 chief priest of his deity, who gives him a new cloth and a fetiche 
 name, and, if at Abomey, presents him to the king. 
 
 It does not necessarily follow that a priest should not also be a 
 tradesman. On the contrary, most priests have a business, such 
 as farming, soldiering, weaving, or other secular calling. The 
 highest dignitaries, however, have no need of such means to eke 
 out their incomes, as they live on the fat of the land upon the 
 fees paid to them by those votaries who are desirous of attaining 
 wealth, health, and wisdom. 
 
 There are by far a greater number of fetiche women than men, 
 as it is by no means an uncommon custom for the priest who 
 assists at the christening ceremony to dedicate the child to a 
 particular ffetiche on the spot. Such children are universally 
 respected, and the giving birth to a priestess is a great honour to 
 the parent. 
 
 The clergy are not subject to the same code of laws as the 
 laity. Formerly their power was absolute, and no priest could 
 be punished except by the ecclesiastical court. Gezu, however, 
 slightly modified this system. During the practice of fetichism 
 no priest can be taken into custody; but when not employed upon 
 religious duties, the fetichecr can be punished just as a layman.
 
 480 THE DAHOMAN EELIGION. CHAP. xxvi. 
 
 In tHese cases it is the lay part only of the priest that suffers, 
 the sacred portion of the priest heing incapably of receivin;:: 
 punishment. I never, however, came across any priest who could 
 point out this vulnerable portion of himself. 
 
 Ordinary wives are entirely at the mercy _of their husbands, 
 but fetiche spouses are exempt from the frequent chastisements 
 inflicted upon the lay portion of the harem by tHe lord and 
 master. e 
 
 Many privileges also accrue to the priesthood. They have full 
 permission to marry any other man's wife they may take a fancy 
 to, to beg in pubHc, to collect tithes fi'om their' votaries, and to 
 wear many dresses forbidden to the lait3% 
 
 Many shave one side of their heads, others string beads on 
 their wool, similar to the custom among the Fans, while a third . 
 series decorate their scalp-tufts with feathers of the firefinch. 
 Most of them carry me^cine-bags and horsetails, and not a few 
 have an ornament of a skull or jawbone attached to the handle 
 of the latter. 
 
 The peculiar dresses worn by the Tansino and other priestesses 
 have been mentioned in the preceding pages, and Hahansu's 
 fetiche-house may be taken as a sample of a completely furnished 
 Dahoman " Joss-house."
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. 
 
 Character of the Dahomans— Their subtlety — Fallacy of the common belief in 
 their affection — A plea for Darwinism — What is a negro ? — His beau ideal 
 — How to civilise him — Albinoism — Dress — National tattooings — 
 Asphalted negroes — Food — Aromatic sauce — Agriculture — Weaving — 
 Architecture — Furniture — Marriage ceremony — Funerals — Zoology. 
 
 "We have already informed the reader of the rise of the 
 Dahoman nation from the original stock of Alladah. So many- 
 different tribes have added their quota towards forming the present 
 j)eople that there are scarcely half a dozen families remaining in 
 the country who have preserved their original Ffon blood uncon- 
 taminated by that of other tribes. These are readily known by 
 their J ij^hter colo ur, and, as might be expected, the royal family, 
 having the best opportunity of preserving their caste, exhibit the 
 most marked differences from the canaille. 
 
 [Collectively, the Dahomans are of the middle height, agile and 
 very slightly made, capable of enduring a considerable amount of 
 fatigue, but lacking the strength of the natives of the Kroo 
 coast. The muscles of the arms and legs stand out conspicuously, 
 and in their dances they exhibit a wonderful suppleness of limb, 
 such as would delight a civihzed gymnast. Their skins are of 
 various shades of chocolate, from the dark brown of the Whydahs 
 to the hghter coiSee-coloured hue of the AUadahs. Their necks 
 are rather short, which, combined with their flat skulls, make them 
 excellent hammock-men, and all burdens aro carried on the head.
 
 482 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxyir. 
 
 Their morals are not of a very high order. Truth is never 
 resorted to where a lie will screen the talker. Braggadocio and 
 bomhast are mixed up with all their speeches ; hut whenever . 
 they get a chance they will cheat and swindle in the most under- 
 handed fashion. As a natural consequence of their despotic rule 
 they are cringing, ser\ale, and cowardly to their superiors, but 
 arrogant, dogmatic and overbearing to those over whom they are 
 placed. Liars all, and cheats of blackest hue, they never trust a 
 stranger, and their shrewd, overreaching propensities often vic- 
 timise the unsuspicious white trader. As an instance : a woman 
 will bring in a dozen pots of oil to the factory and obtain a -* 
 receipt for the same, stating the amount of oil she has brought 
 in. This docket or "Book," as ever}i:liing of the kind is called, 
 even to the railway labels on a portmanteau, is then taken to the 
 store and exchanged for goods. Sometimes a crafty trader will 
 exhibit her ticket and ask for some goods, and endeavour to avoid 
 giving up the book to the clerk in the hurry of business. Once 
 let her get away with it, and she vnW carefully preserve it for 
 months, and when the transaction is forgotten produce it again and 
 obtain a second lot of goods. As among all negroes, everything 
 noisy is " music," and they are extremely fond of singing, without 
 the least idea of music, dancing without grace, and gambling. 
 
 The old Ffons were a warlike race, but, like the ancient Romans, 
 degeneracy and effeminacy crept in with success, and the Dahoman 
 prestige is now on the decline. Cruel, bloodthirsty^ and vindictive 
 to their enemies, they fought with the ferocity of wounded tigers, 
 and in the home circle exhibited none of that affection which 
 some namby-pamby stay-at-home sentimentalists would havens 
 believe in. A man looks upon his wife and children as so many 
 servants, who wiU feed and clothe him, and the conjugal and 
 paternal love that is expressed by Cowper in the lines — 
 
 " Fleecy locks and black complexion 
 Cannot alter Nature's claim ; 
 Skins may differ, but affection 
 Dwells in ivhiie and black the same,''
 
 CHAP XXVII. THE "MAN AND BROTHER" THEORY. 4S3 
 
 is a sentiment that my experience rarely enabled me to discover. 
 Among children up to about ton years little difference exists in 
 their treatment of each other, Avhether white or black ; but after 
 that age aU the little mutual kindnesses gradually disappear, and 
 at twenty-one a man cares little moi« for his brother or sister 
 than for strangers he has never seen. So far from being an 
 advocate for the " man and brother" theory, I am strongly inclined 
 to think that there exists in the negro an "innate and enduring 
 inferiority of a race which has had so many an opportunity of 
 acquiring civilization, but which has ever deliberately rejected 
 improvement.'" Most heartily do I agree with Burton in his 
 statements showing that the negro has been raised to a pin- 
 nacle from which ho will be overturned when the true know- 
 ledge of his race as if is, and not as it is supjjosed to be, is obtained. 
 
 Is it not true that the strongest advocates of the philanthropic 
 schemes for elevating him to a position, for which he is mentally 
 and physically unfitted, are those very persons who have never 
 heard anything of him, except from the one-sided statements of 
 the missionary, still less have they visited him in his native 
 haunts ? It, therefore, devolves upon all who have been fortunate 
 enough to form an intimate acquaintance with the every-day life 
 of the negro to give an unvarnished and faithful picture of him 
 as he is to be found. 
 
 The song representing a slave-mother offering herself in the 
 place of her child, in the words, 
 
 " Chain me, starve me, flog me, kill me, 
 Heaven have mercy, spare my child," 
 
 never had any other origin than iu the fertile imagination of the 
 author. The condition of the negro as yet renders the preserva- 
 tion of self his primary object, and the affairs of other people, 
 however closely related, possess but little interest to him. Never- 
 theless, it is a gross error to suppose that negroes dispose of their 
 own wives and children. I never heard of a single instance of 
 
 ' Burton. 
 
 I I 2,
 
 484 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 such a case, not even among the degraded ti'ibes of the Cameroons 
 and the Ogowai. ^Tiat cause can be brought forward to account 
 for the universal degradation of the negro if we reject the theory 
 of a lower psychological organization ? Without alluding to the 
 much- maligned Darwinian theory, I would here state roundly my 
 belief that the negro is a sub-species or permanent variety of the 
 genus homo. One of the distinctive features of a species is its 
 power to procreate a succession of individuals similar to itself, and 
 which have a like creative power themselves ; or, as Buffon 
 defines it, "succession constante cVindividus semhlahles et qui se 
 reproduisent." Now one of the strongest arguments in favour of 
 the sub-species theory is the fact that the ehildi-en of a white 
 father and a negro mother are notoriously unproductive, more 
 especially when they marry mulattoes like themselves. 
 
 One of the most fertile sources of the erroneous j^i'^stige which 
 has accrued to the negro is the universal ignorance as to what a 
 negro really is. With the generality of the supporters of the 
 "man and brother" theory, every native of Africa, from the 
 Kaffir to the Moor, and from the Soumal to the Mandingo, is a 
 negi'o ; and in the United States the slightest taint of African 
 blood constitutes a " nigger," The error is as gross as the calling 
 of aU the Asiatics, Cingalese, would be. 
 
 The limits of the true negroes may be defined to extend 
 between the parallel of the Kong Mountains and that of the 
 Congo, but its boundaries are by no means regular. North of 
 this boundary we find a race of a far higher civilization in the 
 Semiticiscd negroids of Houssa, Bambara, and Nubia ; and it is 
 from amongst these that the greater number of the bright exam- 
 ples of negro philosophers are obtained, who are thrust in our faces 
 as indisputable evidences of the equality of negro and white in the 
 scale of intellect by the philanthropic Wilberforccs of the day. 
 
 Tlie negro is a mimic — one of the surest e\ddcnces of an innate 
 conscientiousness of inferiority. He voluntarily accepts servility 
 as his proper station, and it is well knoA^Ti that he will obey a 
 mulatto rather than one of his own race, and a white man rather
 
 CHAP, XXVII, WHAT IS A NEGEO ? 485 
 
 than either. Among the tribes on the outskirts of European 
 trading do we not ever find that the white man is looked on as a 
 spirit, a being of far higher order ? 
 
 Among the Gaboon tribes a rude deity in the form of a human 
 being is worshipped, and this idol is nearly always whitened. 
 
 No greater mistake was ever made than to commence to preach 
 to negroes on the supposition that they were on a par with white 
 men. A race who have not had the sense to invent a personal 
 deity, can never understand the theology of Christianity. They 
 may, parrot-like, quote texts by the yard, and have the professional 
 " cant" at their tongues' ends; but as to understanding one iota 
 of it, it is the height of absurdity to imagine such a thing. The 
 converted negro has no reverence for the Deity, such a feeling 
 having no existence in his brain. He will pray for palm-oil to 
 cook his cankie, in or for a piece of new cloth to decor-ate himself 
 with — (facts) much after the blasphemous style of William Hunt- 
 ington, who having nothing to eat prayed for food, and walking 
 in the fields shortly afterwards met a little girl carrying a loaf 
 which he stole and thanked God for answering his prayer. (See 
 his " Bank of Faith.") 
 
 Give him plenty to eat and drink, clothing, a roof over him, 
 and a wife, and he will revel in luxurious ease; much in the 
 same condition as a well cared-for pig might be supposed to do. 
 The highest ambition of the race is to be a trader, and when one 
 succeeds in becoming so far outwardly civilized as to engage in 
 mercantile pursuits, he turns round upon his white instructor 
 and treats him with contempt for having lowered himself to his 
 level. Take S'a Leone, for example, where a white man can 
 rarely obtain a civil answer to an inquiry, and where the officers 
 of the mail steamers are subjected to the grossest insults from 
 a set of dressed-up " merchants, " who use language towards 
 them such as would not be tolerated in a European port, I think 
 it is Winwood Reade who mentions a case of a full-blooded negro 
 taunting a Frenchman with the remark, " We beat you at 
 Waterloo." But why multiply examples when such facts arc
 
 486 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap. xxvn. 
 
 known to all who have visited " the Coast," and whose interests 
 do not run contrary to their mentioning such cases ? 
 
 To civilize the negro nothing would be more conducive to 
 success than to transplant him to another continent, and there 
 compel him to labour rmder a strict but enlightened system until 
 ' he is capable of taking care of himself. Where they have been 
 ohiujed to work, either by compulsion or by necessities, they have 
 ahvaj-s improved up to a certain standard, where they all stop 
 short as though wound up, and the cases where they have 
 
 \advanced beyond this limit are rare as white crows. The im- 
 provement of a race by even a small admixture of better blood is 
 abundantly shown in Dahomey, where the pure-blooded Ffons 
 are a highly intellectual class, as exemplified by Hahansu and ^ 
 others, especially the natives of Alladah ; while as we approach 
 the coast and the negro blood gains the ascendancy, so do the 
 thinking powers decrease in a similar ratio. Compare the con- 
 duct of the Ashantees and the Fantees in the present war. 
 
 Let it not for one moment be imagined that I am an advocate for 
 daverj^ if by that is midcrstood the possession of one human 
 being by another as a chattel. On the contrar)-, I would use my 
 best endeavours to put a stop to so nefarious a traffic in human 
 flesh ; but, at the same time, I would defend the exportation of 
 negroes to oui' tropical colonies, there to be utilized as farm- 
 labourers, just as CooKes are shipped from one part of the globe to 
 
 ' another. "White labour in the tropics is imi^ossible ; and the 
 animal best calculated to pcrfonn the necessary tillage is the 
 negro. So far from pining in captivity, as most slaves are sup- 
 posed to do, the human chattels of Da Souza, Medeiros, and other 
 slave-owners at Whydah could not be more severely punished than 
 by gi'ving them their freedom ; and in many instances, where it 
 has been ofiFercd to them, they have refused it. These slaves are 
 not the cat-o'-nine-tailed bloodhound-hunted wretches of Mrs. 
 Beecher Stowe, but the unpaid labourers of masters, who 
 demand their daily toil, in lieu of the board and lodging they 
 supply. I hav(^ hcni-d these "slaves" deriding the white coopers
 
 CHAP, xxvii. THE DAHOMAN DRESS. 487 
 
 at work on the beach, and six of them will often be set to perform 
 a piece of work which would be allotted to but one European. 
 Could we return to the days of Wilberforce, our better experience 
 would now lead us to avoid all such catastrophes as witnessed in 
 Jamaica, under Governor Eyre, who, because he looked at things 
 in their proper light, was called a "murderer " by the ignorant* 
 What has been the eifect of the estabhshment of that Elysium for 
 freed negroes in Liberia? The government is an unlimited 
 anarchy ; neither life, Hmb, nor property is safe, and the last state 
 of these objects of pity is far worse than their original existence in 
 their native wilds. 
 
 To return to the Dahoman. Unhke the tribes nearer the 
 equator, the Ffon never resorts to poison, either to remove an 
 obnoxious enemy or as an ordeal for theft. They evidently take 
 a pride in this circumstance, which may owe its existence to the 
 fact that every person in the kingdom belongs to the king, and, if 
 one were poisoned, the administrator would be punished, not fo^. 
 the crime of murder, hut for destroying the king's ]} roper ti/. 
 
 In Whvdah there are several instances of albinoism, their 
 leprou s-] ookipg akias, yellow_hair, and pink eyes, combined with 
 their negro features, rendering them anything but comely objects 
 to a European. Among the natives they are supposed to be 
 under the special protection of the Divinity, just as idiots are 
 among the North American Indians. 
 1 The women are of a stronger make than the men, and are not 
 bad looking for negroes, until they attain middle life, after which 
 they speedily degenerate, and nothing is more repulsive than an 
 old shriveUed-up beldam of forty. The breasts are of a decided 
 pendant order, and the amateur artist who commences to draw a 
 Dahoman woman had better begin his sketch by forming the 
 letter W, and putting a human figure round it. 
 
 The principal features of the Dahoman dress have been 
 
 described passim. ■ All use the languti T bandage, here called 
 
 a Godo, and, above this, the better class wear a very short 
 
 ' petticoat or nun-pwe, and, if they can afford it, the peculiar 
 
 >
 
 \ 
 
 488 MAXNEES AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMAXS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 drawers called Chokoto ; but, if poor, the Godo is the only article 
 of defiling worn by the male sex. Above these, a long toga, the 
 owuchyon, is thrown, being of various sizes, according to the 
 means of the owner, "from nine feet by three to eighteen by eight 
 feet long. It is worn something after the fashion of a Scotch 
 plaid, being tucked under the left armpit, taken round the back, 
 and then thrown over the left shoulder, leaving the right arm 
 free. The women wear the cloth rather different, as it is simply 
 wound round their persons above the breasts; and not thrown 
 over the shoulder. Both sexes have a great partiality for beads, 
 rings, and other ornaments, a common one being a plug of 
 composite candle, thrust through the lobe of the ear. Most 
 persons wear a few beads threaded on a string, and tied round 
 the left calf, below the knee, and the richer sort wear a thick 
 and heavy belt of beads round the waist, after the fashion of the 
 Gaboon tribes. 
 
 The women's petticoat is called a dovoh ; and their upper dress 
 the agavoh, which extends to the ankles. 
 
 Both sexes [wear a pecuHar tattoo mark on the temple, 
 consisting of three short perpendicular cuts, the cicatrice leaving 
 a distinct scar. These peculiar cuts are national characteristics, 
 observed among several tribes on the west coast. The Kroomen 
 tattoo a blue mark down the centre of the forehead, and this same 
 mark is the brand of a thief among the Ffons. The Mahis cut a 
 long slit from the hair to the commencement of the nose, in 
 which some peculiar substance is inserted, which causes it to 
 stand up above the general surface. The Salu people have an 
 ugly gash obliquely across the left cheek, and the old Alladah 
 Ffons cut out a thin slip of flesh from each temple, and turned it 
 back towards the ears, in which position it healed. In addition 
 to these national marks, each woman who can afibrd it tattoos 
 her stomach with a series of raised patterns, a common ornament 
 being a series of arches which look like a Roman aqueduct. 
 
 The mode of dressing the hair varies according to taste. Some 
 shave the entire head, others leave one or two thimblefuls for the
 
 CHAP. XXVII. ASPHALTED NEGROES. 489 
 
 attachment of fetiche or beads, others again shave the crowns, 
 while a fourth group shave all but the top of the head. A dandy- 
 will have squares, circles, and triangles shaved on his woolly 
 pate, while others comb the hair straight out until it looks like an 
 electrified head. The instrument is a razor of European manu- 
 acture, and the operation is performed oh the dry skin. Combs, 
 like those used for horses, are in great demand, and so of course 
 are looking-glasses. Leaving the hair unkempt is a universal 
 sign of mourning, and is continued for twelve moons. 
 
 The characteristic /f^or of the negro is not so highly developed 
 in the Ffons as in many other tribes, but in the violent struggles 
 of the cowrie-fighting it becomes quite sufficiently apparent. 
 The better classes bathe at least once a day, but many of the 
 •poorer folk are only washed when the clouds perform the office. 
 All use unguents to keep the skin from cracking, and a freshly 
 greased negr© shines like polished walnut. However disgusting 
 tl^s practice may appear to over-nice people, it is a very great 
 comfort under a burning tropical sun, and as it is well rubbed in 
 no unpleasant eff'ects result. They do not go about with the 
 grease dripping ofi" their skin ; and a well-oiled negro is not one 
 half so disgusting as a hair-oiled cobbler on a Saturday night. 
 
 Respecting this greasing propensity, I will tell the following 
 story. Upon one occasion, I was on board the "Astarte," and 
 Captain Haynes had complained to me that the canoemen had 
 been stealing the cook's fat. At the time the decks had been 
 varnished, and a pot of hot varnish stood conveniently out of 
 sight near the galley. A boat came alongside, and the canoemen 
 spied out the pot of fat, and at once commenced a copious 
 besmearing from head to foot. Haynes was going to sing out; 
 but guessing the result, I begged him to desist. The boat loaded, 
 away went the shining crew, rejoicing in their new coating. 
 Before they were out of sight, I saw by sundry twitchings of the 
 eyes and mouth, and a wriggling of the limbs, that the varnish 
 had begun to dry. They landed, and in about half an hour 
 returned in a better condition than even I expected. When they
 
 490 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 stepped on the beach, the fine sand mingled with the sticky 
 varnish, and they presented as pretty a group of " asphalted " 
 niggers as any one would wish to see. They never stole any 
 more "/af." 
 
 The diet of the lower classes consists of the universal cankie, 
 1/ with but a little animal food at rare intervals. This substitute for 
 bread is of several kinds. They all consist of maize, ground by 
 the women in a rude fashion, similar to that at the rubstone in 
 Ireland. A large block of granite, brought with considerable 
 labour from Mahi, forms the lower stone. It slopes from the 
 operator at a considerable angle, and its upper surface is sKghtly 
 hoUowed. The grinder, having put the maize in soak overnight, 
 places a few grains in the hollow, and then proceeds to bruise 
 them with a smaller stone shaped like a painter's mullcr, but with 
 a convex bottom. The attitude is stooimig, and the labour 
 severe, as the grains are slowly reduced to a coarse powder, which 
 falls down the slope of the stone into a calabash placed ready to 
 receive it. This is the heaviest work the women have to perform, 
 and when we sec one rubbing away at the stone, with a child 
 fastened on her back, and her breasts going like pendulums, it 
 is by no means a romantic sight. These stones are very valuable, 
 xmd it is no uncommon thing to find one in the joint possession 
 of a dozen families. 
 
 The corn being ground is mixed with boiling water and stirred 
 up until the husks subside, when the remainder is boiled until it 
 is of the consistency of Scotch j)orridge. It is then allowed to 
 cool, and formed into balls as large as oranges, which are 
 ■wrapped in plantain leaves. It has much the consistency and 
 appearance of blancmange, but the taste is sour and unpalatable 
 to an unaccustomed stomach, reminding one of dumplings boiled 
 in soap-suds. When, however, the traveller has overcome the 
 first repugnance it is wholesome, cooling, and very nutritious, and 
 in time he will emulate the natives in the quantity they eat per 
 diem. 
 
 The best and finest is called Akansan, which is made from new
 
 CHAP. XXVII. CA^'KIE-MAKING. 491 
 
 corn, and is strained off before kneading. Lio is the next best, 
 and the common sort of Agidi is very sour. A peculiar fine 
 canlde is made in the palace from the first-ripened grains, and its 
 taste is delicious. Enough of the common cankie for a day's 
 subsistence can be bought for about three half-pence in cowries. 
 The cankie is often taken as the only provision for a journey, in 
 which case it is often squeezed through the hand into a calabash 
 of water, forming a mixture like cold thin burgoo. 
 
 Besides this there is the " Woh " or dab-a-dab of Duncan. 
 This consists of maize ground and mixed with boiling water until 
 it is like gruel, when it is placed in small calabashes to cool. 
 
 When yams are in season they are eaten boiled or made into 
 fufu. This is the mashed potato of Africa, and is made by 
 pounding boiled yam in an immense wooden mortar, until it 
 becomes quite leathery, but very agreeable to the taste. 
 
 Cassava is eaten near the coast, where it is dried and 
 grated or ground into farina, and made into a pudding, which is 
 even less palatable than the long plantain-cased rods of n'dika 
 of the Gaboon. As Burton says, it is " exceedingly like saw- 
 dust." 
 
 The cankie balls are sometimes eaten with a peculiar compound 
 called Afiti. This is the fruit of a tree which is plentiful near 
 the canital, and has been called a tamarind. It forms a very 
 beautiful feature in the landscape, the tree being like an acacia, 
 and the fruit, which hangs from the extremity of a long cord, 
 is of a brilliant scarlet, and as large as an apple when ripe. The 
 husk splits off, and the inner nut sends out long green pods con- 
 taining black seeds. These are washed and boiled, and afterwards 
 buried in the earth and covered with sand, where it is left until 
 fermentation takes place, and the skins of the seeds are half 
 rotten. It is then exhumed, pomided, washed, and exposed to 
 the sun in a calabash for three days, by which time it is supposed 
 to be fit for eating, and is mixed with boiling water, and forms 
 the well-known Afiti sauce. Some people in England are fond of 
 game very high, but the Dahomans completely beat them in the
 
 492 MANNEKS AXD CrSTOMS OF THE DAHOMA^^S. chap, xxvii. 
 
 highness of this sauce. Assafoetida is a relief compared with its 
 perfume, and if any one is curious to get a slight idea of it, let 
 him catch a lace"wing fly, and make the experiment. I was 
 almost choked with it the first time, and, though by no means 
 over particular, I never could bear any of this sauce on the 
 premises. Nevertheless it is one of the greatest delicacies of the 
 Ffons. I have eaten lizards fried in the fat of white ants on the 
 Hemboe, and have dined with a man who had just finished 
 picking the bones of his father, but I never met with anything 
 that so completely upset me as this " Palaver sauce." 
 
 The ground maize is sometimes mixed with pounded capsicums 
 and palm-oil, and fried in little balls, when it is called Dukoh, 
 and, when mixed with sugar instead of capsicums, forms the 
 favourite dish of the fat old Adonejan, called dukoh-kweh, or 
 sweet dukoh. 
 
 Besides this there is a bean, white and about the size of our 
 scarlet bean, the sale of which is prohibited, but which any 
 person can grow for his own consumption — another of the singular 
 laics of the country. This pounded and mixed with palm-oil 
 forms the Ata, a very agreeable adjunct to the table. 
 
 There is a leguminous plant pelding a black-husked pea, by 
 no means to be despised when nicely cooked with ugoh or shea 
 butter ; and, finally, the Occro, or Hibiscus esculcnius, which forms 
 when sliced up a nutritious and very palatable thickening to soups, 
 although its glutinous tenacit)'' renders it somewhat unappetizing 
 to a stranger. This soup is called Nennn. 
 
 Oranges, limes, cashews {akakasu), cocoa-nuts, pomegranates, 
 pineapples, tiger nuts (f/ian), bananas, and plantains grow 
 everywhere, and are eaten by all classes, although the latter 
 do not by any means form so important an item as in Equatorial 
 Africa. 
 
 As I have before mentioned, the lower classes subsist almost 
 entirely upon an azymous diet, but this by no means infers that 
 there is a lack of animal food. Fowls (kokolu), ducks (kpa-kjxi), 
 goats (akeve), very lean and stringy, sheep, ditto, ditto, and pigs.
 
 CHAP, xxvii. A DAHOMAX BILL OF FARE. 493 
 
 very savoury when fed, are all eaten, roast, boiled, or made into very 
 savoury stews by the addition of tbe cardamoms and eschalots to 
 be obtained in every market. Turkeys are rare, and worth six 
 beads of cowries, and Guinea-fowl are fetiche for so many people 
 that they are hardly to be bought at all. 
 
 Many of the grandees have cooks who have been brought up 
 at the European factories, and from them they obtain bread and 
 other articles of a civilized nature. The cooking utensil is a flat 
 clay pot, black with the manganese in its composition, and of a 
 rude Etruscan shape. The fire is made between two stones or 
 heaps of swish, and the pot placed above it. Ovens are of the 
 usual primitive style. A large earthen vessel is embedded on its 
 side in the swish, and a fire lighted wathin it. "When fully 
 heated the viands are placed inside oh the red-hot ashes, and the 
 mouth closed and heated with swish. The baking is by no means 
 to be despised. 
 
 Besides these regulars, bullocks, monkeys, rats, bats, lizards, 
 pigeons, partridges {kokoloasso), antelopes, elephants, and alliga- 
 tors are eaten as occasion ofiers. Eggs {kokolusi) are scarce, 
 fetching about a penny each, and milk is unknown. 
 
 The viands are served in large calabashes, called kago, and 
 every person helps himself, mats being usually spread around, 
 and the encasing plantain leaves utilised as plates. 
 
 Fingers are the prevailing forks, and at the conclusion of every 
 repast the hands are washed, the mouth well rinsed, and the 
 teeth cleaned by the aid of a chewed stick. Tables are only to 
 be seen in the houses of the highest nobles. 
 
 The master is usually served by his wives, who hold the various 
 dishes to their lord on bended knees, none daring to partake 
 until he is satisfied. 
 
 By way of drinks water is the usual beverage, often fetching 
 as much as twopence- halfpenny per gallon in a country where 
 a person can live on threepcuce a day. Rum, wine, and liqueurs 
 are indulged in to excess by all classes when they have the oppor- 
 tunity ; in addition to which they manufacture a land of beer.
 
 494 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 called pitto. This is made from maize, or more rarely from rice. 
 The grain is wetted and placed in the sun until germination 
 commences, when the starch becomes changed into sugar. It is 
 then boiled, mixed with water, which when cool is the beer. It 
 is rather inclined to bring on dysentery, but in moderation is not 
 unwholesome. The palm- wine has already been mentioned. 
 
 Agriculture is at a very low ebb, the ground being cleared wdth 
 a hoe, and the maize, yam, millet, or beans dibbled in before th& 
 rains, and the earth hoed into a series of long mounds like those in 
 a potato field. The yield is enormous, often a hundredfold, and 
 two harvests are usually gathered every year. The maize cobs 
 are cut off with knives, and stored in baskets for future use, and 
 the straw is burned in the annual firing in February. There is 
 no such thing as a succession of crops, but when the land is 
 getting impoverished a new field is cleared and sown. All the 
 land is rented of the king, and as usual the women perform the 
 greatest part of the tillage. 
 
 Cotton is not cultivated at all, the supply being obtained from 
 the wild growth. It is gathered and picked, and spread out on 
 nets to dry in the sun. When wanted it is placed in little 
 heaps, and a small bow is used to separate the fibres and give it 
 a " fluffy " character. It is then fastened to a stick about a foot 
 long, and is ready for spinning. The instrument for this purpose 
 is a thin slip of bamboo about a foot long, stuck through a heavy 
 round piece of clay which acts as a fly, and the whole is then 
 twisted by the fingers, the weight of the fly generating sufficient 
 momentum to keep it in motion for a considerable time. The 
 end of the thread twisted from the bundle of cotton on the 
 distaff" is attached to this, and as it twirls round the cotton is 
 disengaged with the right hand, and when a thread of sufficient 
 length to allow the spinner to touch the ground has been spun off", 
 it is wound round the spindle-stick, hitched over its top, and the 
 operation continued. A small quantity of wood ashes is placed 
 near the operator, who from time to time takes a little on her 
 fingers to prevent them adhering to the cotton fibres. The thread
 
 I 
 
 ■.■y.'./'y>^:,^:.>;i:.^,y 

 
 CHAP. XXVII. SPINNING AND WEAVING. 49r> 
 
 is very uneven, and as thick as crochet cotton. When a sufficient 
 length has been spun it is woven into cloth. The loom is 
 extremely rude. The threads are wound round two sticks j&xed 
 in the giound at a certain distance apart to form the warp, and 
 when a sufficient quantity is wound off it is attached to a 
 heavy stone by one end. The other end is passed through a 
 series of holes in two flat pieces of wood, each alternate thread 
 being passed through the same piece, so that by pulling on cither 
 alternate series of threads can be brought up to the top. These 
 flat pieces are worked by cords, with, sometimes, a rude treadle,^ 
 or rather loop, on the end. The shuttle is a long piece of wood 
 round which the weft is wound, and the operation consists of pass- 
 ing this between the alternate series of the warp and hardening 
 down the weft with the edge of the shuttle, just as word mats are 
 made by sailors. As the cloth is woven the heavy stone attached 
 to the end of the warp is drawn nearer the weaver, and the cloth 
 is wound round a roller before the operator. The width of the 
 cloth is seldom more than six inches, and the necessary width to 
 form a garment is arrived at by sewing the narrow strips edge to 
 edge. 
 
 The royal cloth is frequently no wider than two inches, and 
 the labour necessary to produce one of the large togas may easily 
 be imagined. The robe given me by the king is formed of this 
 two-inch yellow and white cloth, and occupied a weaver nearly 
 six months, while the time taken to spin the cotton could be 
 scarcely less. The common folk wear cloth woven of grass, which 
 is sometimes mingled with cotton, and some of the royal cloth is 
 woven of English- dyed yarn. 
 
 The weaving is chiefly confined to the manufacture of the 
 royal cloth, and is conducted at all the palace gates under the 
 Pwe-sheds. As before mentioned, the king docs not allow any 
 of his subjects to wear cloth of any of the patterns in which the 
 state robes are woven. 
 
 Architecture is entirely of the bam order. When a person 
 wishes to erect a dwelling for himself, he prepares a number of
 
 49G MANNERS AXD CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 long bamboo or palmyra poles aud a quantity of thatch. The earth 
 or swish is dug near at hand, and mixed with water to the con- 
 sistency of putty and formed into lumps like dumplings. The 
 ground is cleared and operations commenced by marking out the 
 walls, which are always oblong. The swish balls are then handed 
 to the builder, who with them forms a mound about two feet 
 thick and three feet high. This is then covered with a light 
 thatch and left to dry. Four of these steps or "kohwe " are allowed 
 to be raised by the people, while all the royal palaces and gaols 
 have five. The height of the wall of an ordinary dwelling is 
 about twelve feet, and upon this rafters are laid and crossed with 
 smaller sticks, and finally wattled with straw for a ceiling. 
 
 A row of poles are then set up in a slanting direction to form the 
 roof, and are securely lashed together with grass rope, while the 
 lower edges are either fixed to short stakes driven into the wall, or 
 attached to a row of posts erected in a line before the house, thus 
 forming a verandah. The thatch is fixed with grass rope, and is 
 usually nicely trimmed at the eaves. Underneath the verandah 
 an earthen bench is built up, and the whole nicely smoothed and 
 coated with a mixture of cow-dung and water. The doorway is 
 a mere gap in the wall, seldom if ever closed with a door, unless 
 the building is a store-room or " Zaho," when a rude plank door 
 swinging on wooden hinges, and secured with a lock of native 
 manufacture, protects the contents fi'om purloining hands. The 
 lock is nothing more than a latch with a projection upon it, 
 against which a boss on the key catches. The cooking is often 
 performed in the open air, or under a Bekpah or hut built of 
 poles with matting sides or simply left open. The fetiche- temples, 
 of which every large house possesses one at least, are usually 
 circular, and in the centre of the cluster of oblong barns which 
 make up a Dahoman homestead. The whole of these buildings 
 arc enclosed in a high fence, which is replaced by a swish wall 
 as opportunities offer for its completion. The gate has a wooden 
 lintel with a single coui'se of swish above it, and the top of this 
 is always, and in well-kept houses the whole wall, thatched.
 
 CHAP. XXVII. HOUSES AND FURNITURE. 497 
 
 The establisliinent of each wife is usually separated from that 
 of her comrades, and the slaves reside in a quarter specially 
 allotted to them, called the sra. Most of the grandees have 
 houses in all the large towns, besides country villas on their 
 plantations. 
 
 There are no builders by profession in the country, each person 
 superintending the erection of his own dwelling. Should any 
 trees be enclosed in the spacious courtyards, they are allowed to 
 remain, so that the heart of a populous town appears as green as 
 some parts of the open country. The drainage is effected by a 
 slight slope in the ground towards the enceinte, through which a 
 hole is pierced, and the sewage, solid and Hquid, is allowed to 
 flow through and form a quagmire outside. No wonder small- 
 pox rages with such fearful mortality sometimes, but Cape Coast 
 and Accra, which have long been under British rule, are very 
 little better, as any person can tell the moment he lands on the 
 beach. A Josusu and a few Bo fetiche images at the gate with a 
 Legba hut and pots, and a string of sayan, complete the house, 
 and it now remains to describe the famiture. 
 
 Among the nobles the visitor can occasionally discover a table, 
 often rude and ricketty, a few European chairs, and perhaps a 
 vile German print. The usual sleeping place is the earthen floor, 
 upon which a mat is spread, though occasionally raised earthen 
 benches are constructed in the dormitory. A bedstead is some- 
 times used, formed of bamboo leaf-stalks, about six feet long and a 
 foot high, with a raised pillow of similar construction at one end. 
 This, covered with a few mats, is not to be despised as a resting 
 place when encased in mosquito netting. 
 
 Earthen jars for water, baskets for com, calabashes, a wooden 
 pestle and mortar, a grindstone, and a few cooking pots, and the 
 furniture is complete. 
 
 The marriage ceremony of the Dahomans is quite a complex 
 affair. When any person is anxious to add to the number of his 
 harem, he looks about for a likely damsel, and when found selects 
 a man and a woman to negotiate with the girl's parents. These
 
 49S MANNERS AND CUSTOJIS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 messengers are sent to the parents with a present of ten large 
 demijohns of rum and two heads of cowi'ics. The name of the 
 suitor is told to the father, and the daughter whom he wishes to 
 marry is also notified. The messengers then leave the girl's 
 parents and return to the suitor. Meanwhile, a meeting of all the 
 relatives of the hride's father is convened, and an inquiry made 
 into the merits of the proposed alliance. If any of the near 
 relatives of the would-be husband have offended any of the 
 family of the bride, the offer is at once rejected. If this difficulty 
 is surmounted, Afa is consulted and a favourable reply being 
 obtained, which can always be insured by the pajTnent of a 
 heav}' fee, the rum and cowries are retained, and the empty 
 demijohns at once returned to the owner. If Afa gives a denial, 
 or if there exists any unhealed sore between the families, the 
 rum and cowries are returned and there is an end of the matter. 
 
 On the receipt of the empty demijohns, a similar present to the 
 first is made to the father-in-law, together with two new cloths 
 for the bride elect, and the betrothal is confirmed. The husband 
 then collects as much cloth, handkerchiefs and other valuables as 
 his means will permit, which, according to some, is the dower of 
 the bride, and by other accounts the price paid for her. The 
 collection of these cloths is always a tedious process, unless the 
 husband is wealthy enough to be able to buy a stock off-hand, 
 and during the interim between the betrothal and the wedding 
 the wooer has to pay all the fetiche demands to which the fiancee 
 is liable. This is sometimes no little trifle, for if the bridegroom 
 will bear bleeding, the priests are sure to find some sacrifice 
 omitted, perhaps an offering to the manes of some ninety-fifth 
 removed cousin or other. Besides this, if any wealthier suiter 
 hould crop up, an immediate payment of the dowry is demanded 
 or the girl becomes the property of the new wooer. 
 
 AU being prepared, a grand entertainment is announced, and 
 a messenger at sunrise, at mid-day, and a third at sunset, is sent 
 to beg the bride from her parents. At sunset the bride, attired 
 in white, is escorted to her new abode by her parents and a large
 
 I 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 499 
 
 circle of relatives and friends. The post of honour is assigned to 
 the father, the mother sits on his right hand, and the bride elect 
 on the left. The friends of the bride sit on one side and those 
 of the bridegroom on the other, and mutual assurances of eternal 
 friendship flow fast and free. The feast is then spread, generally 
 in the courtyard of the house, and water offered to the guests, 
 after which all fall to upon the savory viands. A band enlivens 
 the marriage feast and several jesters are present, if they can be 
 paid for. 
 
 During the banquet the bridegroom is not permitted to see 
 his future spouse, and the feasting continues until midnight or 
 first cock crow in very wealthy families. Water is then given to 
 the guests, and the bridegroom retires to the nuptial couch. The 
 bride is then taken in hand by four aged fetiche priestesses of 
 Legba, who administer sundry words of advice, and lead the 
 blushing gii'l to her husband, and placing her hands in his, say, 
 " We have brought your wife ; take her ; flog her if she is bad, 
 and cherish her if she is good." They then drink the health of 
 the bride and bridegroom in as many diff'crent liquors as the host 
 is able to supply, and finally retire. A young giii is then posted 
 outside the courtyard, and the friends disperse. 
 
 The Mosaic custom with regard to the prcrnices obtains in 
 Dahomey. The couch is covered with a new piece of calico, and 
 in the morning, if all has gone well, the godo is borne in triumph 
 to the friends of the bride by the girl stationed in the house, 
 while the bridegroom exliibits the covering of the nuptial couch. 
 A second feast is then given, and the bridegroom is supposed to 
 confine his attentions to the bride for a period corresponding to 
 our week. At the expiration of this short honeymoon, the bride 
 returns to her father's house, and sends a present of food cooked 
 by her own hands to her husband, who returns a complimentary 
 present of rum, cowries, and cloth. The bride then returns to 
 her new home, and the next morning goes to market and buys 
 provisions with the cowries sent her by her husband. With these 
 she prepares a feast to which the friends of the husband alone 
 
 K K 2
 
 500 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 are invited, and afterwards subsides into the same social position 
 as tlie remainder of the harem. 
 
 Should, however, the bride have proved herself rirgo disrupta, 
 great palaver ensues. The bride is sent back to her parents in 
 disgrace, and the full restitution of all expenses incurred is 
 demanded, while the parents of the damsel use every means of 
 finding out the defiler of the family name, and compel him to 
 marry the girl, besides paying heavy damages. In some instances 
 the marriage into any family entails upon the husband the 
 necessity of aiding his father-in-law in case of sickness, death, or 
 poverty. 
 
 The birth of a son is always anxiously looked for, but the 
 advent of twins was looked upon at Alladah and Whydah as a 
 sure sign of the infidelity of the mother ; as they considered that 
 no woman could have two children at once by one husband. The 
 twins were thrown into the water, and the mother impaled and 
 her breasts cut ofi", much after the fashion of the Chinese. This 
 barbarous practice has been put down of late years, and in the 
 capital the mother receives a present from the king. A childless 
 woman is held to be under the ban of Legba, to whom propitiatory 
 ofierings are made. If she is unable to obtain her desires, she is 
 called icen-si-no, but is not looked down upon, as is the case with 
 many tribes. 
 
 The bii'th of a child is attended by some female friend of the 
 mother, who is often out and about twenty-four hours after, 
 pounding corn or hoeing maize, as if nothing had happened. 
 Sacrifices are made to Legba, and on the sixth day a Bukono 
 priest is sent for, who makes Afa and ascertains what ancestral 
 spirit, if any, resides in the child. If the infant is " possessed," 
 it is called by the same name as its ghostly tenant ; but if not so 
 honoured, by any name that the parents may choose. Most 
 children are circumcised, not in infancy, but between fourteen 
 and twenty years of age. 
 
 Whenever a Dahoman dies, notice is sent to the magistrate of 
 tke district, who inspects the body and receives a fee of a head
 
 CHAP. XXVII. FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 501 
 
 of cowries, two [bottles of rum, and some cankie for his trouble. 
 This custom was instituted to prevent any encroachment upon 
 the king's prerogative of taking the life of any subject, as in 
 former times many slaves were killed by their masters. 
 
 This inquest over, the friends and more distant relatives of 
 the deceased shave the body, wash and anoint it, and dress it in 
 the finest cloths, including all ornaments, such as necklaces, 
 horns, gauntlets or bracelets. A new cloth is rolled up and 
 placed under the head of the defunct, who is laid upon the bed 
 in his sleeping apartment. The wives and children meanwhile 
 sit round the corpse weeping and wailing, and consoling them- 
 selves by frequent applications of the rum-bottle. The grave is 
 usually dug in the floor of one of the rooms in the dwelHng-house 
 of the deceased, unless there is some special place of sepulture 
 for the family. A wooden coffin is prepared, the size depending 
 upon the rank of the deceased. The corpse is placed in it on its 
 right side, and cowries, rum, and small roUs of cloth are placed 
 in the coffin to pay toll on crossing the Dahoman Styx, 
 
 The coffin is then nailed up and carried to and fro before the 
 grave by the mourners, a horrible din being kicked up by singing, 
 crying, and beating cracked earthenware. It is then lowered by 
 grass ropes, always at night time ; and the children of the 
 deceased throw handfuls of cowries upon the coffin. The grave 
 is then filled up, with the exception of a small space near the 
 head, which is left open to enable any relative who may wish to 
 present any cowries to the deceased to do so. At the expiration 
 of these days of grace, the grave is filled up and smoothed over 
 with swish, and usually some token, such as a cresset- shaped iron, 
 is set up upon it, and upon certain days offerings of water and 
 food are made upon the shrine. 
 
 The greater number of the friends of the deceased then go 
 home, but a few remain for two or three weeks with the bereaved, 
 dashing them cowries, rum, and cloths, besides cooking all the 
 necessary food. A "strong day," such as Wednesday, is then 
 chosen, and a feast proclaimed, when singing and dancing hold
 
 502 MANXERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 their own until daylight. This finishes the burial rites, and on 
 the following Monday the whole of the family shave their heads 
 and do not dress their wool for twelve moons after. Shaving 
 over, the bereaved go round to the friends who have assisted at 
 the funeral and thank them, promising to return the compliment 
 whenever opportunity arrives. The betrothed husbands of the 
 daughters of the house are supposed to assist, and also to pay all 
 the fiancee's expenses. 
 
 The Dahomans, like the Chinese, have a great desire to be 
 buried in their native land. Wlienever a person dies abroad his 
 finger-nails and a small portion of the earth from his grave arc 
 brought to Dahomey ;', the nails are buried and the foreign soil 
 spread over them, and the spot is reverenced as the grave of the 
 defunct. 
 
 The zoology of Dahomey, although diffenng but little from 
 that of the other parts of "Western Africa, is nevertheless highly 
 interesting. Besides entailing considerable pecuniary loss, the 
 overwhelming kindness of Gelele in detaining me at Abomey as 
 his guest, entirely prevented me fi'om carr}Tng out my original 
 intentions in the pursuit of natural history. I can therefore 
 only give a mere outline of the fauna of the country; in fact 
 my remarks "svill be confined to a catalogue of the most prominent 
 animals. 
 
 In the swamps the hippopotamus, alligator, and manatee are 
 found, the latter, however, being only an occasional visitant. On 
 the slopes of the Mahi ranges the elephant still exists, but is 
 being slowly and surely killed off by the royal hunters and 
 huntresses. The bufi'alo {Buhalus coffer) ? is occasionally 
 to be met with in the plains, where it falls a prey to the 
 python. 
 
 Among the carnivora, the leopard is far from scarce, but the 
 hunting of it is prohibited by royal edict. 
 
 To the north the forests occasionally resound to the roar of the 
 lion, while the screech of the hardly less formidable wild cat 
 grates harshly upon the ear. In all the towns, especially at
 
 CHAP. XXVII. ZOOLOGY OF DAHOMEY. 503 
 
 Abomey, the hyaenas perform the task of scavengers, their 
 unearthly laughter as they revel in the feast of human flesh at 
 the latter place lending additional horror to the fate of the 
 victims. The Civet cat {Vlverra civetta) reveals its presence by 
 its powerful odour, and one which I brought home with me is 
 now in the Gardens of the Zoological Society. 
 
 One of the most singular animals is the Pangohn {Manis 
 tetradactyla), or Scaly ant-eater. One of these was brought to 
 me at Assinee, and became quite tame. It was about two feet 
 in length, and the whole body covered with broad, sharp-pointed 
 scales, a cmious modification of the ordinary hirsute covering of 
 the manunalia. 
 
 Monkeys abound, of several species, two of which, the Cerco- 
 Ijithecus Iliihcr, and C. nictitans, are often tamed and sold to 
 the passing steamers. 
 
 The birds of Dahomey are excessively beautiful, but only a 
 few can be here mentioned. 
 
 The splendid Grackles with their rich green and violet robes 
 contrast with the crimson-breasted nutcrackers. Conspicuous by 
 their long graceful tail feathers are the Whydah finches {Viduoc), 
 of which there are several species looking like miniatui-e Birds of 
 Paradise. These elegant appendages, however, are only worn in 
 the breeding season, after which they drop off, and the bird 
 retires into private life. Orioles of the most gorgeous hues, 
 especially Orioliis auratiis, the Golden Oriole, whose briUiant 
 gamboge plumage forms a glaring contrast to the dark green of 
 the forest trees. The curious Touracos (CorytJiaix), vnth. theh 
 elegant green and purple colouring and hair-like crests, are often 
 to be seen perched on some lofty tree, while Flycatchers and 
 Swallows — the latter reminding one of those in far-off England — 
 are busily engaged in the pursuit of their insect prey. 
 
 In the tall grass, especially near Kana, the magnificent Fire 
 finch [Euplectes jiammeceps) with its gorgeous scarlet plumage, 
 flits from panicle to panicle, oft-times disturbing the sedate chame- 
 leon by its rustling. Here, too, the love-bird [Agapornis Swinde-
 
 1^ 
 
 504 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DAHOMANS. chap, xxvii. 
 
 rianus) enlivens the scene with its emerald body, beautifully set 
 off by its scarlet head. 
 
 Just at dawn and again at sunset the screeching of the grey 
 parrots (Psittacus Erythacus) grates harshly on the ear as they 
 ily high overhead. 
 
 Among the undcrshrub the gleaming Sunbii'ds {Cinnyris) 
 vieing with the Humming-bii'ds of the opposite hemisphere in 
 the splendid metallic lustre of their hues, may be observed sipping 
 the honey from the flowers by means of their long tubular beaks ; 
 while, on the banks of every stream, the hardly less gorgeous 
 Xingfishcrs flit noiselessly in pursuit of their finny prey. All 
 over the country the black and white King-birds {Motacilla) 
 walk about unmolested, and innumerable sparrows, finches, and 
 other birds, are to be met with on every side. 
 
 In December Abomey is visited by flocks of snow white cranes, 
 and on the marshes the red-coated flamingo, with its black and 
 white brothers, may often be seen intent upon the procuration of 
 its morning meal as it poises itself on one leg. 
 
 Among the insect tribes there are splendid butterflies flitting 
 along the glades, or sailing round and round some lofty tree far 
 out of reach of the entomologist's net. After the rains hundreds 
 of these winged gems, chiefly Papilios, may be seen drinking in 
 the grateful moisture, and often so thickly settled upon the 
 ground as to form quite a carpet. Beetles of bright metallic 
 hues, especially Cetonia) and Longicornia, are seen running and 
 flying about, while among the Hymenoptera there are several^ 
 interesting species. 
 
 Dragon-flies, some of splendid coloui's, which, alas, vanish 
 speedily after death ; Ant lions, with curiously-spotted wings^ 
 Locustidse, phasmas, those curious stick-like beings, Mantidse ""^^^^ 
 and Hemiptera of every possible shape, hue and smell, are to be 
 met with in profusion. JN^ear the capital a deadly Tstse fly is 
 occasionally seen hovering over a devoted bufialo, and the 
 Tabanida) are a source of annoyance to the traveller. The 
 Termiies build their wondrous houses in every forest, and not a
 
 CHAP. XXVII. DAHOMAN ENTOMOLOGY. 505 
 
 tree or bush is to be found "wdthout being covered with ants. 
 The curious Diopsis or Telescope fly with its curious pedunculated 
 eyes is obtained near Abomey, where also I captured Cynthia 
 Cardiii, the Painted Lady of British Lepodopterists. 
 
 In short the fauna of Dahomey affords a rich harvest to the 
 naturalist, and ere long I hope to revel in its sweets without fear 
 of being taken care of by Gelcle.
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Reception by the "WTiydah caboceei-s— More delay — Punishment for arson— 
 Start for England and arrival — Appendix on Ashantee. 
 
 After a delay of six days all was prepared for my reception 
 at "WTiydah. Accompanied by my hammockmen, stool, and um- 
 brella-bearers, and tbe remainder of my body guard, I started from 
 tbe factory for the " big tree " soon after dayligbt. On arriving 
 at Sogro's we formed into a circle, myself under the umbrella 
 being the centre. The soldiers who had accompanied me from 
 Abomey were drawn up into what by a very imaginative person 
 might be called a column, while several bands grated upon the 
 ear with their inharmonious strains. 
 
 About 6.45 we formed into a procession, bands and soldiers in 
 front, next the cloths, dresses, and other gifts from the king 
 displayed to their best advantage, then the human presents, and 
 last my humble self, preceded by the king's stick. 
 
 On arrival at the Bwendemen gate of the Avogan's residence, 
 we found the "NYhydah caboceers drawn up under their showy 
 umbrella verandah to the left of the gate. After the usual three 
 circumambulates, during which we were deafened with the dis- 
 charge of cannon and musketrj^ I ahghted, and the aged 
 Avogan, tottering from beneath his gorgeous canopy, advanced 
 to meet me. After a dirt bath before the king's stick, he shook 
 hands with me and welcomed me to Whydah with the usual 
 "compliment you" from all the ills that might befall the traveller
 
 CHAP. XXVIII, RECEPTION AT WHTDAH. 307 
 
 from the capital. Healtlis were then duly attended to, that of 
 the king being honoured -^Tith j)riority. 
 
 Meanwhile my stool of office and umbrella had been set up to 
 the right of the Avogan, that of the Chacha being on the left. 
 I then took my seat amongst the caboceers, while a crier, after a 
 prodigious ting-tanging on his gong-gong, announced my rank 
 and titles to the assembled crowd. He then displayed and 
 explained all the various gifts, animal and vegetable, dilating, 
 as usual, upon the unbounded generosity of the king. While 
 this was going on I was enjoying a pipe amidst my brother 
 nobles, Quinun, Chuydatoh, the Chacha, Segro and another. 
 
 After the catalogue was completely exhausted we adjourned to 
 the interior of the palace, where more healths were drunk and 
 specimens of dancmg given for our entertainment. The palace 
 appeared to be a general " lumberim,'' for heaped on all sides 
 were broken and used-up muskets, umbrellas, carriages, fetiches, 
 and what not. In about half-an-hour we started on a grand 
 parade round the town, bands plajdng, drums beating, and guns 
 &ring " a la mode." The Avogan was represented by a gaunt 
 warrior who proceeded on foot-back, while the other officers 
 were mounted on the Yourba horses in use by all the nobility. 
 
 On arriving at the English fort, Mr. Ely, the acting-manager 
 for Messrs. F. and A. Swanzy, who has since unfortunately 
 fallen a victim to the climate, had prepared to receive me from 
 the hands of the king's people. Several of the old rusty guns 
 had been loaded, which as we came in sight were fired off, giring 
 one the sensation of being carried leisurely past a number of 
 exploding shells, for it was a miracle that they did not burst. 
 The caboceers dismounted at the fort gates and went upstairs into 
 the reception-hall, whither I followed them, while the soldiers, 
 some 400 in number, remained outside firing their muskets, 
 dancing, yelling, &c., &c. I was amused at the method of load- 
 ing the big guns. Four or five stalwart soldiers would seize one 
 of them by the muzzle and up-end it, while another would pour
 
 o08 CONCLUSIOiS'. CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 the charge down the gun from a powder keg. No wadding was 
 used, but the gun was merely laid on the ground and fired by a 
 piece of lighted stick, the gaping touch-holes admitting a fuse 
 as thick as a clothes-prop. 
 
 On the tables in the hall, wines, spirits, and liquors, were 
 arranged, and a series of toastings commenced, each caboceer 
 giving us a terpsichorcan display as he drank my health. 
 This game was continued for two hours, when, having been 
 formally handed over to Mr. Ely, and a messenger despatched to 
 Abomey to inform his Majesty of my safe delivery, the weary 
 throng took its departure, and I was at last out of the tedious but 
 hospitable clutches of Gelele, king of Dahomey. 
 
 I was then anxious to return to my wife and family, and was 
 disappointed at learning that no steamer was expected for several 
 weeks. Day after day I busied myself among the insects of the 
 neighboui'hood, but the fauna in no way differed from that of the 
 whole coast. The time passed but wearily, the monotony being 
 occasionally varied by a military flogging-match, or a fire, one of 
 which was of considerable extent, unroofing the whole of the 
 huts between the beach road and the western part of the town. 
 At first we thought the factory was in danger, but a strong body 
 of men set to work to unroof the houses to leeward of the fire, 
 which thus died out for want of fuel. 
 
 One morning we received news of the destruction of one of the 
 factories at Godome by an incendiary, who had been taken in 
 the act and sent up to Abomey for trial. He was sentenced to 
 be decapitated on the scene of his exploits, and was sent down to 
 Wliydah for that purpose. One morning we were told that no 
 black men would be allowed to leave the town until the parade of 
 the condemned had taken place. As luck would have it, a 
 steamer made her appearance, much to my chagrin, for, although 
 I could have gone to the beach myself, I could not have taken 
 any of my luggage with me. About nine o'clock the usual 
 bra}-ing of horns and drumming announced the approach of the
 
 CHAP, xxviii. EXECUTION OF AX INCENDIARY. 609 
 
 condemned. A long pole like a piece of scaflfolding sharpened 
 at the top was carried before the unfortunate, who inarched 
 along with his hands tied before him, and the usual gag in his 
 mouth. By his side was a man with a lighted pipe, and a 
 handful of tinder. Behind came the caboceers, with the rear 
 guard of tag-rag and bob-tail. 
 
 On arrival at the gates of the factory the gag was removed 
 from the man's mouth, and he took the pipe and tinder and ex- 
 plained to us that he had gone to the factory with a lighted pipe 
 and, setting fire to the tinder, by means of it had ignited the thatch 
 and had so burnt the factory, and for so injuring one of the white 
 people who were under the protection of the king his head was 
 going to be cut off and fixed on the top of the pole we saw. 
 After this speech the gag was replaced and he went to the next 
 factory to repeat the tale, and the next day was taken to Godome 
 and executed, his head gracing the pole which was set up as a 
 warning to any person against the crime of arson. 
 
 At length the Astarte was ready for home, and I again took 
 my passage in her. The voyage home was a very anxious one, 
 for we were first dismasted in a severe tornado when off Cape 
 St. Paul, and then, afterj a succession of hght winds, sprung our 
 main topmast above the cap. This would have been nothing had 
 we not to contend with a mutinous crew who repeatedly threat- 
 ened the life of Captain Haynes, whose cares where thereby 
 increased to such a degree as to give him but little rest either 
 night or day. Slung shot were picked up, and it was unsafe to 
 be about the decks alone. 
 
 At length, owing to the firmness of the captain, we succeeded 
 in reachifig the Downs, when, as a wind-up, the crew set upon 
 the mate at the Nore, and a severe fight was the result. Of 
 course they met Tv4th their desei-ts, but no punishment could 
 repay the captain for the anxiety they caused him. I would 
 here return my most hearty thanks to him for the cordial hos- 
 pitality I met with while on board his vessel both on the outward
 
 510 CONCLUSION. chap, xxviii. 
 
 and homeward passages, and trust that if wo should ever be 
 shipmates again he Avill not be harrassed by such a worthless 
 crew as were aboard the Astarte in 1872. 
 
 Having now reached the civiUzed world I will bid my reader 
 adieu, hoping he has not been too much wearied by the foregoing 
 pages.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 THE ASHANTEES. 
 
 The neighbouring country of Dahomey, Ashantee, is now merging into 
 notice by reason of the war which is now waging between the English and 
 Koffee Kai, the ferocious King of that coimtry. As comparatively little is 
 known of the countrj^, a short description of it, the result of two short 
 visits, may not be iininteresting. ■ 
 
 The Kingdom of Ashantee, or Ashdnti as it is called by the natives, is of 
 equal, if not greater, extent and importance to that of Dahomey itself. 
 
 Like all African countries its boundaries are very vague and ill-defined, 
 but they may be assumed to be the River Volta in 1° East longitude on the 
 Eastern side, and the meridian of 5° West on the opposite side, and to 
 extend from the southern slopes of the Kong Mountaias in 9° north latitude, 
 to within tliirty miles of the sea coast. This narrow strij) between Ashantee 
 and the ocean is inhabited by a number of negro tribes, such as the Assinees, 
 the Kinjabos, the Ahantas, the Elmiuas, the Fantees, the Accras, and 
 others. 
 
 The climate is similar to that of Dahomey, but the seasons are about 
 three weeks later than in that country. 
 
 Like Dahomey also, the country is well wooded, but the open grassy 
 plains are of greater extent. The surface rises with gentle undulations 
 from the coast to the feet of the mountains, and Coomassie in 6" 40' N., 
 1° 58' W., has an elevation of 800 feet above the sea level. Unlike Dahomey, 
 however, Ashantee is penetrated by several streams. 
 
 The Volta is a large stream, navigable as far as Sagaleh some hundred miles 
 from the mouth ; but its shores are thickly fringed with the deadly man- 
 f^rove, and extensive swamps reach for several miles on either side near the 
 mouth. The next river of importance is the Prah, which embrouches into 
 the sea at Chumah. About twenty miles from its mouth there is a small 
 waterfall, but beyond it is navigable for smaU craft as far as Alardeh or 
 Prasu, where the main road from Coomassie to the coast crosses the river. 
 
 About forty miles from the coast the Prah is joined by a large stream 
 flowing from the N.N.W., called the Bosom Prah, which takes its rise in 
 the marshy land near Coomassie.
 
 612 THE ASHANTEES. appendix. 
 
 Besides these two there are other smaller streams such as the Assinee, the 
 Boutry, the Bujah, and others. 
 
 As regards mineral wealth, Ashantee is the gold country far eoccellence of 
 the West Coast. The quantity of dust and nuggets which is brought Aovni 
 to the coast ui a single year is enormous. I have seen 300 ounces taken in a 
 small factory in a single day. The precious metal is obtained by digging, 
 washing, and searching the auriferous rocks. Iron, copper, and titanium are 
 also found, but not worked. 
 
 The population of Ashantee may be roughly estimated at three millions. 
 Like the Ffons, the Ashantees are a Semiticised race, far superior to the 
 Negro coast tribes. Their features are A'ery like those of the Dahomans, 
 and indeed they appear to have originated from a similar stock. 
 
 As in Dahomey, nearly every man is a soldier, and the army of Ashantee 
 may be estimated at 300,000 men. They are armed with muskets as in 
 Dahomey, but possess likewise Enfield rifles, and their military organization 
 is on a far superior scale to that of Dahomey. In all probability we shall 
 find them foimidable enemies, as in addition to their numbers they have 
 the unhealthiness of the climate for Eurojjeans in their favour. 
 
 The capital, Coomassie, covers a hill on the north side of a marsh, and is 
 a place of some 60,000 souls, and by its situation natiirally fortified. The 
 houses are similar to the Dahoman ones, but near the court the swish gives 
 place to wattled bamboo. 
 
 The non-possession of a coast line, which debars them from a direct 
 trafiic with Europeans, has led to imiumerable feuds with the Fantees and 
 other tribes. The Ashantees pi-oduce the gold and pass it over to the coast 
 through the intermediate tribes, who do not forget to levy a heavy 
 brokerage. The scene at a factory when any gold is brought down is a 
 busy one. 
 
 The Ashantees are by no means behindhand in the manufacture of 
 " Bnxmmagem," and this renders the purchase of gold dust a precarious 
 traffic except in experienced hands. At all factories there are professed 
 " gold takers," whose duty it is to assay every particle of gold dust before 
 it is passed into the traders' hands. A half-naked savage will arrive in the 
 factory with, gold dust to exchange for guns, powder, or cloth. The dust 
 is carefully tied up in small pieces of paper, in one comer of his waist- 
 cloth or often enough concealed in the intricate mazes of liis wool. 
 
 The small packet is opened and the gold taker empties it into a copper 
 blow pan, shaped like a banker's shovel without a handle, and with a 
 dexterous movement of the wrist sejjarates the large from the small par- 
 ticles. With a feather-tip he then picks out all the suspicious particles 
 and bits of dirt, and, with a wonderfully-regulated puff, blows off the 
 specks of mica and pyrites which would otherwise escape unnoticed. The 
 blown gold is then weighed and handed over to the trader. The wages of a 
 good gold taker are very high, and some over-acute but penny wse and 
 pound foolish persons who have dispensed with the services of these gold
 
 APPENDIX. THE ASHANTEES. 613 
 
 takers and have relied upon the efficacy of aqnafortis and touch-stone have 
 found on consigning the gold dust (?) to England that they have been buying 
 silver gilt or even gold dust made in Birmingham itself. 
 
 Like the Dahomans the Ashantee chiefs use the umbrella. Their dress is 
 similar to the caboceers, but the highest dignitaries have sometimes as 
 much as a pound weight of gold about their persons, either sewn as nuggets 
 upon the dress, which nuggets are all possessed of magical virtues, or 
 fashioned into stars, crescents, squares, and other figures, and attached to 
 their long woolly locks. Each chief is attended hy a medicine man with 
 his whole pharmacopseia contained in a leather bag slung to his side, and an 
 executioner, who is distinguished by a cap of monkey-skin with the head in 
 front, and by having his face usually whitened. Besides this there are 
 several sword-bearers, who carry swords of native manufacture with massive 
 handles of solid gold. A shield likewise accompanies each caboceer, with 
 a central boss of the same precious metal, and stools, umbrellas, and all tlie 
 state paraphernalia are inlaid with gold. 
 
 Unlike the Dahomans the Ashantees are great poisoners, and they are 
 far more cruel and vindictive in their passions than the Ffons. They have 
 an Annual Custom, at which the victims rival those of Dahomey in Tegb- 
 wesun's days, besides a monthly slaughter to the gods. The King keeps 
 his birthday every seventh day, and so important an event must necessarily 
 be celebrated by the spilling of human blood. The death of every chief is 
 likewise made an excuse for murder, and indeed, the tales which have been 
 bruited about Dahomey have far greater application to Ashantee than to 
 that country. 
 
 There are no Amazons in Ashantee, but the King's harem is 3000 strong, 
 selected from all ranks of society. 
 
 Between the King and the nobles a great gulf exists, the prime miidster 
 humbling himself in the d\ist just as the Ningan and the Meu do before 
 Gelele. 
 
 Could the Ashantees be induced to stop their blood-thirsty practices 
 and turn their talents to commercial pursuits they would soon develop 
 the natural resources of theii- country, and it is to be hoped that a 
 way to the coast will ere long be opened for them which wUl go far 
 towards their civilization, and I doubt not that in a few years they 
 will have completely walked over the heads of the negro Fantees 
 whose aptitude for learning is but of a very low type. Should we become 
 masters of Ashantee it is to be hoped that they will be rulud with a strong 
 hand, and at the same time every opportunity of direct tiade given them,- 
 by which means we may develop a cruel blood-thii-sty race into the greatest 
 mercantile tribe on the Western Coast. 
 
 L I.
 
 GLOSSAEY OF DAHOMAN WOEDS AND 
 TITLES. 
 
 The figures refer to the pages. 
 
 In this Glossary I have followed the orthography of Burton, except where I 
 have deemed the sound to be better expressed by a different spelling. 
 
 Abagan, an iron armlet, like; a snake. 
 
 Abe, lightning. 
 
 Abijeh, the pottery, 408. 
 
 Abo, or agbo, a gate. 
 
 Abodevve, a gate iii the palaces to con- 
 tain the Demen, 471. 
 
 Aboejaga, the N.W. gate of Abomey, 
 403. 
 
 Aboh, an nncle of the king and a 
 general of the right, 249. 
 
 Abokhonun, the old gate of Abomey, 
 388. 
 
 Abosi (Gatewivcs^ to open the gates of 
 Abeokeuta, 281. 
 
 Achi, the Dane-gun or bayoneteer com- 
 pany, 132, 447. 
 
 Ada, a tooth. 
 
 Adaii, brave. 
 
 Adandokpoji, the N.W. suburb of Abo- 
 mey, 403. 
 
 Adandokpoji Liseh hoonzeh, Tegbwe- 
 sun's palace, 403, 4.^30. 
 
 Adandokpoji Haseh Mpengula's palace, 
 406, 451. 
 
 Adangbno ten, a swearing place, 31, 
 152. 
 
 Adan-^lacordeh, one of the gates in the 
 Dahomey pilace, 391, 442. 
 
 Adanglo kohdeh, a gate in the Abomey 
 palace, 385. 436. 
 
 Adanmonnukon, one of the generals of 
 the left, 249. 
 
 Adanwe, one of TegbwesuJi's palaces, 
 152. 
 
 Adanzan, Gezu's brave hill, 164. 
 
 Addo, a Popo bead said to be imperish- 
 able. 
 Addokpon, Gelele's bush king (addo 
 
 and kpou). 
 Addokpon dan gbe, the sixth section 
 
 of the bush king's So-Siu Custom, 
 
 286. 
 Addokpon nun ki>on gbe diyeh, the 
 
 tliird section of the bush king's So- 
 
 Sin Custom, 278. 
 Addonoh, or Adono, Agajah's mother, 
 
 266. 
 Addugba, the drum played by tlie kosi, 
 
 283. 
 Addugba ho gbe, the fourth section of 
 
 the bu.sh king's So-Sin Custom, 282. 
 Addugbwebo, circumcision. 
 Addug-doh, the player on addugba. 
 Adeo, good-bye. 
 Adissin, charcoal. 
 Adogwin, the third market day at 
 
 Kana, 138. 
 Adiih, the yellow Popo bead. 
 Adonejan, the Meu's assistant and chief 
 
 engineer, 120, 445. 
 Afa, the god of wisdom, 474. 
 Afarii^bcj one of the king's biothei-s, 
 
 425. 
 Afin, ashes. 
 Atiti, a soup with a highly uniileasant 
 
 odour, 4i>l. 
 Afunfun, the small tent under whicli 
 
 tlie king sits at tlie Gun Custom. 
 Afinisoku, the wliite-breasteil crow. 
 Ag:ijah, the fourth monan:h, 449. 
 
 L L 2
 
 516 
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAJ^ WORDS AND TITLES. 
 
 Agaman, the chameleon deity, 472. 
 Agasunno, the priest in cliarge of the 
 
 Bo fetiche guarding the Customs, 
 
 191, 472. 
 Agasunuo-jaga-sin-Tansi'gbeh nesii, the 
 
 second section of the Custom, 206. 
 Agavoh, a woman's upper cloth, 488. 
 Agbaja, the watch from 6 to 9 p.m. 
 Agbaja, a drum, 172. 
 Agbaja, a cartridge box or belt, 166. 
 Agban, profit, luggage, cargo. 
 Agbanh, meat. 
 
 Agbaraya, the Blunderbusseers, 447. 
 Agbata, a Nago dance, 219. 
 Agbcnunklii, the market-place at the 
 
 old Abomey gate, 388. 
 Agbweli, the custodian of the sea, 468. 
 Agbwetoh, a sea deity, 470. 
 Agesi, Aho's mother, 408. 
 Agesi bouun, Agesi's gate, 408. 
 Agi, a seed used as a counter. 
 Agideh, a dnmistick, 201. 
 Agidi, common cankie, 491. 
 Agi doh, the game of tables. 
 Aglime, a town north of the swamp. 
 Agodomen, the courtyard at Adangla- 
 
 cordeh, with the tombs of Aho, Daho 
 
 and Akabah, 392. 
 Agon, the Palmyra tree. 
 Agongolu, the seventh monarch, 45. 
 Agotirae, Gezu's mother, 266. 
 Agran, a jawbone. 
 Agran howe, the jaw imibrella, 259. 
 Agrimgomen, Agajah's gate at Abomey, 
 
 385. 
 Agrim masogbe, one of the gates of the 
 
 Abomey palace, 385. 
 Agudaavogan, a Portuguese, 289. 
 Ahan, a liquid. 
 Ahanjito, court singers, 135. 
 Ahanweh, the first watch, 6 to 9 A..M,, 
 
 172. 
 Ahanweh, a gourd rattle, 172. 
 Ahgo, audience ! oyez, 148. 
 Alio, the second monarch, 449. 
 Ahundatoh, one of the bands of jesters, 
 
 173. 
 Ahwagbamen, the lieutenant of the 
 
 Kposu, 292. 
 Ahwangan, the war officers, 446. 
 Aiah, an onomatopoetic name supposed 
 
 to be a lion's roar, 253. 
 Aie, the heart. 
 Aikun, a bean. 
 Aizan, a fetiche girdle of palm-leaf to 
 
 protect from fire, also the street god, 
 
 150, 472. 
 Ajahai, the first market day at Abomey, 
 
 396. 
 
 Ajalcyaho, the landlord of the Coomas- 
 
 sie palace, 445. 
 Ajalela, large black fetiche pots, 254. 
 Ajaruma, the god presiding over the 
 
 destinies of white men, 47, 471. 
 Ajoh, trade. 
 Ajudo-akhi-men, the Ajudo market at 
 
 the entrance of "Whydah, 12. 
 Ajudo chacha, the Brazilian quarter of 
 
 Whydah, 45. 
 Ajijah, a narrow trap set in a river. 
 Akabah, the third monarch, 449. 
 Akakasu, the cashew tree. 
 Akansan, the best cankie mixed with 
 
 water as a drink, 490. 
 Akeve, a goat. 
 
 Akhaon, a vulture, V. auricularis, 25. 
 Akhi, market day. 
 Aklio, a trumpet, the watch from 12 to 
 
 3 A.M., 172. 
 Akhosu, the to^vu king as opposed to 
 
 the bush king, 290. 
 Akhosusi, the Amazons, 167 
 Akhosu sosin bekpah, the king's So-Sin 
 
 Pavilion with the elephants upon it, 
 
 188. 
 Akhosusi zohn bwe, the second section 
 
 of the bush king's So-Sin Custom, 
 
 275. 
 Akhosutanun, the Grand Customs, 179. 
 Akhisiu, the trade captains, 446. 
 Ako, a family. 
 Ako-chyou-gbonun, the S.E. gate of 
 
 Abomey near the Uhunglo market, 
 
 241. 
 Akpadume, the Amazonian Meu, 456. 
 Akpatokloh, a double bag, 173. 
 Akpetokoloh, a large leather bag, 173. 
 Akpotin, a box. 
 Akpotoh-Bodahun, Gelel^'s princely 
 
 name, 51. 
 Akpucho, the palace of Addokpon, 270. 
 Akpidogan, the second caboceer of Al- 
 
 ladah, 89. 
 Akpweh, a town south of the Aglime 
 
 swamp, 97. 
 Akpwentoh, a fetiche place near Kana, 
 
 149. 
 Akrasu, a vulture, P. Niger, 10, 26, 
 
 338. 
 Akwaji, the main southern gate of the 
 
 Coomassio palace, 163. . 
 
 Akwakejeh, the king bird, a small 
 
 motacilla. 
 Akwashi, a Mahi goddess presiding over 
 
 childbirth, 157, 470. 
 Akwe, cowries. 
 Akwe-janahan, a market held between 
 
 Kana and Abomej', 153.
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAN "WORDS AXD TITLES. 
 
 517 
 
 Alih, a road. 
 
 Alladah, the old capital of the Ffons, 
 
 85. 
 Alo, the hand. 
 Alogan, an ai-nilet. 
 Alolokponugan, one of the king's 
 
 brothers, 248. 
 Alomablemeuhonun, the western gate 
 
 of Abomej', 406. 
 Alogweh, a somersault. 
 Am ma, a leaf. 
 Ammasin, medicine. 
 Ammasinblutoh ) , , 
 Ammabluto \ '^''''tors. 
 
 Ammansinkpcle, the keeper of the 
 king's medicine, 249. 
 
 Anipasim, a town in Mahi, 318. 
 
 Anannn, madness. 
 
 Ananun-hwesu-huntoh, the Blue Knil'e 
 regiment, 263. 
 
 Anatinkpoh, a fetiche club, 164. 
 
 Anlin, a hole or pit, one of the Cus- 
 toms, 414. 
 
 Anlinwanun, the king's representative 
 in war, 215, 455. 
 
 Anun, the dry season. 
 
 Ardrah, the old uame of Alladah. 
 
 Areraeh, the fetiche of the Blue com- 
 pany, 150. 
 
 Aro, archers, 447. 
 
 AsetT, a fetiche iron like a cresset, 188. 
 
 Ashanti, one of the corps of the Daho- 
 man army, 447. 
 
 Ata, bean cakes, 492. 
 
 Atakin, capsicums. 
 
 Atakuu, Malaguetta pepper. 
 
 Atin, or Attin, a tree. 
 
 Atinlihun, the "Big Tree" at Wliy- 
 dah, 72. 
 
 Atinbodun, the tree deity, 403, 467. 
 
 Attikin, a necklace of black seeds. 
 
 Attogau, a village near Alladah, 94. 
 
 Attoli, a monkey. 
 
 a platform, one section of the 
 
 Custom, 342. 
 
 Gomoyeh Gbe, the seventh sec- 
 tion of the Attoh Custom, 364. 
 
 Atyan guan, are you well tliis morning, 
 175. 
 
 Ave, clothes in general. 
 
 the rag wrapped round a fetiche, 
 
 188. 
 
 Avogan, the Viceroy of Whydah, 51, 
 445. 
 
 Avokangliekhe, the bird that weaves 
 cloth for man. 
 
 Avo-usu-gbo, the third section of the 
 king's 8o-Sin Custom, 211. 
 
 Avreketeh, a marine deity, 152 ; also 
 
 his fetiche, 473 ; strings of cowries, 
 156. 
 
 Avrekctesi, the priestesses of Avreke- 
 teh, 208. 
 
 Awahn, war. 
 
 Awanjigo, the French quarter at AVIiv- 
 dah, 29, 45. 
 
 Awesu, the King of Uhwaweh, wlio 
 entertained Daho, 86. 
 
 Ayan. See Sayan. 
 
 Azekbd, a crow, Corvus Senegalensis. 
 
 Azekbeh, an owl. 
 
 Azezeh, a fabulous monster. 
 
 Azoh, tobacco, 25. 
 
 Azoliweh, a town near Alladah, 82. 
 
 Azou, a club. 
 
 A2;o(juah, a tobacco pipe, 25. 
 
 Bakoko, a King of Lshagga wlnso 
 skull is used as a drinking cn[), 
 222. 
 
 Banyanemme, Gelel^'s palace at Kann, 
 137. 
 
 Bagwe or Bagweh, the pots to hold 
 Nesu wai;er, 207, 472. 
 
 Bassajeh fetiche priestesses who repre- 
 sent the ghosts of the deceased king.-;, 
 226, 462. 
 
 Be or Bi, all. 
 
 Ijc.gani, captainesses, 250. 
 
 Bell, happiness. 
 
 Bi;kpah, a mat fence or hut, 496. 
 
 Beuazon, the royal treasurer, 291. 
 
 Binwanton or Biwanton, Ningan's 
 deputy, 291, 445, 
 
 Blin, to roll over. 
 
 Bloo Bloo, cheers. 
 
 Blue Company, one of the regiments, 
 446. 
 
 Blutoh, one who does. 
 
 Bo, and. 
 
 Bo, the Dahoman Mars, 469. 
 
 Bo-chio, knobbed sticks used in Bo- 
 fetiche, 470. 
 
 Bodun, fetiche. 
 
 Bokovo, one of the king's uncles, 291. 
 
 Bonugan, a general or caboceer. 
 
 Bonugangei, the beads worn by a cabo- 
 ceer round the neck, 194. 
 
 Bonugan-kayon-gbe, the first section of 
 the Attoh Custom, 341. 
 
 Bonugan-nun-kpon gbe diyeh, tlie 
 fourtii section of the King's So-Siu 
 ("ustom, •ll'l. 
 
 Ronuganton, the armlets worn by a 
 caboceer. 
 
 Borl ah borl, a form of prayer, 32. 
 
 Boro, fetiche captains.
 
 518 
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAN "WORDS AND TITLES. 
 
 Bo-so or Bo-soh, painted truncheons 
 
 for fetiche, 139, 469. 
 Brohun, a calabash drum, 172. 
 Brohun, the second watch, from 9 to 
 
 11 A.M. 
 Bruvodun, the fetiche of the Bru or 
 
 Blue Company, 150. 
 Bukono, priests, the king's feticheer. 
 Bukouonroh, the health officers of the 
 
 king, 121. 
 Bweh, happy. 
 
 Bwekon-huleh, the Coomassie palace. 
 Bweken Hwegboh, the palace of Agon- 
 
 golu, 409, 451. 
 Bwekon-uhun or hun, the fetiche 
 
 cotton-tree near the Coomassie palace, 
 
 163. 
 Bwemeh, the palace of the Agasunno, 
 
 472. 
 
 Caboceer, an officer. 
 
 Cankie, maize ground and boiled. 
 
 Chacha, a Brazilian officer of the king 
 at "Whydah, 64. 
 
 Chararah, a towTi in Mahi, 107, 333. 
 
 Chauri, a horse-tail fly flapper, 135. 
 
 Chokoto, drawers, 165, 488. 
 
 Chop, food. 
 
 Chai, Tegbwesun's mother, 266. 
 
 Chuj'datoh, the second caboceer at 
 Whydah, 20. 
 
 Chyo, all. 
 
 Coomassie, the palace of Gezu. 
 
 Cowries, small Cypraeai used as cur- 
 rency, 28. 
 
 Custom, a state ceremony, 178. 
 
 Da, fire. 
 
 Da, to play on an instrument. 
 
 Dada, grandfather. 
 
 Dahkro, Amazonian messengers, 145. 
 
 Daho, large, huge. 
 
 Daho, the first king of Dahomey, 86, 
 
 448. 
 Dakoh, a kind of cake, 57. 
 Dan, to shoot. 
 Danh, the King of Gedavin slain by 
 
 Daho, 87. 
 
 the rainbow, 473. 
 
 a snake, 54. 
 
 a fetiche, 466. 
 
 Danhghwe, a python, 54. 
 Danhgbweliweh, the snake-house at 
 
 "VVhydah, 54. 
 Danhgbweno, the priestesses of the 
 
 Danh, 55. 
 Danhjihunto, the lieutenant of the 
 
 right wing of the Fanti Ai. 
 456. 
 
 Dauhlike, Addokpon's mother, 265. 
 
 Danhsi, the Danhgbweno. 
 
 Danyoh, the Kmg of Pahlookoh, 326. 
 
 Dash, to give, present a gift. 
 
 De, all. 
 
 De, customs dues, 65. 
 
 Dede, softly, slowly. 
 
 Degan, a customs officer, 216. 
 
 Deh, one. 
 
 cut off or finished. 
 
 Dehn, to cut. 
 
 Dejeh, a deity imparting the power oi 
 ruling, 153. 
 
 Dekyeh, tinder, 26. 
 
 Demen, (Dewen) ? a Mahi deity guard- 
 ing the chastity of the king's wives, 
 154, 471. 
 
 Denun, a custom house, 8. 
 
 Dewen, to search for. 
 
 Deyeh-nun-kpon, a strong name con- 
 ferred on me by the king, 305. 
 
 Dhu, now. 
 
 Di, here. 
 
 Diden, to take up. 
 
 Didoh, springs north of Abomey whence 
 the Nesu water is fetched, 208. 
 
 Dijeh, this. 
 
 Do, a bamboo mat. 
 
 Dodoh, put down. 
 
 Dogbwe, night. 
 
 Dogoh, a waist cloth. 
 
 Dob, a hole. 
 
 Dohen, a god at Whydah, 47, 472. 
 
 Doho, a bamboo house, 286. 
 
 Dokon, a village north of Abomey, the 
 residence of the Avogan, 406. 
 
 Don, young. 
 
 Donpwe, Amazons who destroy traitors' 
 property, 48. 
 
 Dosu, the nan)e given to the first son 
 born after twins. 
 
 Dosumwin, the keeper of the Abomey 
 gate, 388. 
 
 Dovoh, a woman's petticoat, 488. 
 
 Dukoh, maize fritters, 492. 
 
 Dukoh-kvveh, sweet maize fritters, 492. 
 
 Dukomen, the Portuguese quarter of 
 Whydah, 45. 
 
 Dun, to eat. 
 
 Eahweh, the English landlady and 
 
 Amazonian Adonejan, 263. 
 Echile, the fourth caboceer of Whydah, 
 
 249. 
 F.gban, to break. 
 Egbe, that will not go into.
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAX WORDS AXD TITLES. 
 
 519 
 
 E'^bleh, completely. 
 
 Egbolu, the old Men's mother. 
 
 Ell, he. 
 
 Eyeos, one of the Yoruba tribes N.E. 
 
 of Dahomey, 118. 
 Eyeosegbabotlnun, the S.E. gate of 
 
 Abomey, 406. 
 
 Fanti, the King's company of Amazons, 
 455. 
 
 Fefaleah (Ashanti), hail king, 250. 
 
 Fefale (Ashanti), hail, I hear, 250. 
 
 Fflien, tiger nuts. 
 
 Foli, the son of Shampo who shot him- 
 self at Whydah, 31. 
 
 Fosupoh, Amazonian kposu, 456. 
 
 Fouseh, the third market day at the 
 Dahomey palace. 
 
 Fufu, a maize pudding. 
 
 Ga, a bow. 
 
 Gall, market day. 
 
 Gahn, a bell. 
 
 Gah-qpweh, Gezu's bush king, 272. 
 
 Gan, metal. 
 
 a captain. 
 
 Ganchya, a black drum for Addokpon, 
 
 201. 
 Ganchyaluin, a drum baud, 201. 
 Gauu, conquering. 
 Ganunlan or ulan, the "Conqueroi-s of 
 
 all Animals"; one of the male regi- 
 ments, 133, 447. 
 Ganwe, iron. 
 
 Ganzeh, a general of the left, 291. 
 Gaou, the field-marshal of the right 
 
 wing, 292, 445. 
 Gaou-hwe-gudoh, a square near the old 
 
 Abomey gati-, 388. 
 Gaou-nehou, the Gaou's war temple, 
 
 113. 
 Gaiou-teh, the Gaou's water, 113. 
 Ga-sa-uliun, a fetiche cotton tree near 
 
 Abomey, 153. 
 Gbe, to-day. 
 Gbeto, Amazonian Elephant-hunters, 
 
 166, 2r.6, 456. 
 Gbloh, a large drum for Addokpon. 
 Gbnan, to swear. 
 Gbnon, an oath. 
 
 Gbo, large. ' 
 
 Gbo, to leave off. 
 Gbwe, a bush. 
 Gbwewedo, Gelelc's chief eunuch, 215, 
 
 246. 
 Gbwejeh, the national Diana, 470. 
 
 Gbwn-hun-li, the place of reception at 
 
 Kana, 127. 
 Ge, thin. 
 Gehwe, the " Cowiie House "at Abomey, 
 
 385. 
 Gelele, the present King of Dahomey, 
 
 142, 452. 
 Gelele-akhosu Kayan gbe, the second 
 
 section of the Attoh Custom, 344. 
 Gesinnun, the custom-house at the 
 
 Whydah lagoon, 8. 
 Gezu, the eighth monarch, 451. 
 G^zuyelio, the tent for Gezu's ghost, 
 
 195. 
 Gha, a chimpanzee. 
 Gion, to like. 
 Gle, or Gre, a plantation. 
 Gleta, the forest country. 
 Glo, a bag. 
 Go, a (juivcr. 
 
 Godo, the T bandage, 487. 
 Gohento, archcre.sses, 457. 
 Gohweh, a drum, the watch from 3 till 
 
 6 P.M., 172. 
 Gon, in the place of (an affix). 
 Gongi, the district between Whydah 
 
 and the lagoon, 11, 12. 
 Gozogoh, a land tortoise. 
 Grewhe, the Ffon name of Whydah, 
 
 44. 
 Guh, the presiding deity of black- 
 smiths, 387, 473. 
 Guh, a dog. 
 Gu-hoh, a wattled hut. 
 Guhoh, Gun-custom huts, 421. 
 Gulonentoh, Amazonian musketeers, 
 
 457. 
 Gundemo, the Amazonian Ningan, 456. 
 Gong-gong, a cymbal, 19. 
 
 Haiiansu, Geleld's eldest son, 150. 
 
 Han, to sing. 
 
 Hanan, one of the king's wells near 
 Kana, 125. 
 
 Hanhonukoiiji, th% N. E. gate of the 
 Abomey palace, 385. 
 
 Hen, to hold. 
 
 Hieglensi, the English quarter at Why- 
 dah. 
 
 Ho, the belly. 
 
 Mo, a room. 
 
 Ho, tall. 
 
 Ho, great. 
 
 Hoho, twins, the deity preserving 
 twins, 470. 
 
 lioiio-zen, twin-]iots, 470. 
 
 Hojcno, tlie heatl door-keejicr, 250. 
 
 Hoinen, the entrails.
 
 520 
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAX WORDS AND TITLES. 
 
 Hon, a door. 
 
 Hon, to l)eiit or strike. 
 
 Hu, the Dahoman Nei)tiine, 468. 
 
 Huedah, the old name of Wliydah, 
 
 44. 
 Hiahii, dead. 
 
 Huinen, in the sea (the south). 
 Hun, a drum. 
 Hun, or uhun, a ship. 
 Hun, or uhun, a cotton-tree, 467. 
 Hunajileh, Mpengula's mother, 466. 
 Huuo, the head priest of Hu, 468. 
 Huntoh, or hunto, a drummer, 346. 
 Hunto Kayon-glie, the third section of 
 
 the Attoh custom, 346. 
 Huwun, to kill. 
 
 Hwe, a residence with a plantation. 
 Hwe, a fish. 
 Hwisuh, a dagger. 
 
 Itte-d'-ai, the clapping salutation, 
 143. 
 
 Ja, come here. 
 
 Jalnva, the custodian of the Dido. 
 
 Jai, beads. 
 
 Jaja, go out. 
 
 Je, go. 
 
 Je, salt. 
 
 Jcgbch, Gelele's jialnce, 423. 
 
 Jegoh, to tuck up or fold. 
 
 Jeh, on. 
 
 Jeh, to wait for. 
 
 Jen, to fall. 
 
 Ji, sky. 
 
 Jibcwheton, the lieutenant of the 
 
 left wing in the Fanti Amazons, 
 
 456. 
 Jih, afraid. 
 Jin, to live. 
 Jo, wind. 
 Job, born. 
 
 Joji, a string of azan. 
 Josusu (wind luck), a gallows with a 
 
 bird or other offering to ensiu'e 
 
 prosperity. 
 Jotosi, dnunmers. 
 Juju, fetiche in general, 199. 
 
 Kako, the iron Bo fetiche preceding 
 
 the king in state parades. 
 Kago, calabashes for food, 195. 
 Kaj-an, to dance. 
 KHJih, the finest cankie. 
 Kaka, verj- much. 
 
 Kakopwe, the Kangbodeli's assistant, 
 
 215, 446. 
 Kan, a rope. 
 Kanaema, an evil deed. 
 Kangbodeh, the eunuch chief of the 
 
 uight-giiard, 215, 446. 
 Kana-gbo-nun, the Kana main gate, 
 
 114. 
 Katake, a war stool, 261. 
 Kan, the throat. 
 
 Kechi, theN.E. market in Abome}', 391. 
 Kentin, the head singer, 279. 
 Klie, a bird. 
 Khesin, to fear. 
 
 Khetungan, the Amazonian Gaou, 456. 
 Khevyosoh, the God of Thunder, 10, 468. 
 Kho, old. 
 
 Khoguduh, the backyard, 187. 
 Kiiii, a leopard. 
 Kiui-kini, a lion. 
 Kini-kini-kpo,a stick or sceptre with a 
 
 lion carved upon it, 147. 
 Klan, jesters, 173. 
 Ko, the earth. 
 Kodide, the dirt- shovelling salutation, 
 
 143. 
 Koh, master. 
 
 Koh, a marsh or swamp, 103. 
 Kohuu to beat a drum. 
 Kohwe, the courses in a wall, 496. 
 Kokoaji, one of the captains of the 
 
 nightguard, 446. 
 Kokolo, a fo.vl. 
 
 Kokolohuwu, sacrifice of poultry. 
 Kokolosi, eggs. 
 Kon, upon. 
 Konun, to laugh. 
 Kosi, a legal prostitute, 283. 
 Kpate, the Whydah man who first 
 
 called Europeans there, 473. 
 Kpa-kpa, a duck. 
 Kpase, Kpate's assistant, 473. 
 Kpo, a bill. 
 
 Kpo, a leopard ; also the fetiche, 473. 
 Kpo, a stick. 
 Kpofensu, the captain of blunder- 
 
 busscers and head-jester, 250, 394. 
 Kpogoeji, a street between the Uhun- 
 
 glo market and the Coomassie palace, 
 
 406. 
 K]>oji, a singer's staff. 
 Kpon, hump-backed. 
 Kjion, to look at. 
 KjiosiJ a Icopard-wifp, 165. 
 Kposu, the field-marshal of the left 
 
 wing, 292, 445. 
 Kpota, a hill. 
 K]iotah, a swelling. 
 Kj)wa-kpwa, the Kakopwe, 128.
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAX WORDS AND TITLES. 
 
 ->21 
 
 
 Kpweh, plenty. 
 
 Kpwen, a lioru, the watch from 9 to 12 
 r.M , 172. 
 
 Kra-kra, rattles. 
 
 Kra kra, an irritating cutaneous dis- 
 ease. 
 
 Kraveh, a brown monkey wliich makes 
 the gun burst if it sees it before the 
 hunter. 
 
 Kuku, or huhu, dead. 
 
 Kun, to die. 
 
 Kntomen, Deadland, 4(51. 
 
 Kwabna, Tuesday. 
 
 Kwaiu, to sprinkle. 
 
 Kwe, old, worn out. 
 
 Kweh, pers]iiration. 
 
 Kweh, year. 
 
 Kweh, sweet. 
 
 Kweho, an umbrella, 193. 
 
 Kweho-sonu, an umbrella-bearer, 10. 
 
 Khwetanun, the annual Customs, 179. 
 
 Lali (half-head), one of the Eunuch 
 
 troops, 249. 
 Lefllefloh, the fetiche temple of Leffle, 
 
 a Nago deity, 157 
 Legba, the Dahoman Priapus, 469. 
 Legbamban, a pot for Legba's offer- 
 ings. 
 Legba-nun-dudu, offerings to Legba, 
 
 188. 
 Legba-si-gohn, the toll-gate of Legba, 
 
 149. 
 Leh, a Whydah fetiche, the crocodile, 
 
 472. 
 Leopard-wives, the actual wives of the 
 - king. 
 Lin, to stand. 
 
 Lio, a bitter kind of cankie, 491 
 Lisa, the sun, 472. 
 Lisa-ji, sun-sky (the east). 
 Lisa-no (sun-mother), the chief priestess 
 
 of Lisa, 261. 
 Liseh, a cashew nut, 380. 
 Logozo, the tortoise god, 111 
 Logun, an alligator. 
 IjOgun, a tail. 
 Logun-aizan-li, a fetiche grove of Aizan, 
 
 153. 
 Logunsinsi, the Tail Dancers, 263. 
 Loko, the poison tree, 467. 
 
 Ma, a knob or club. 
 Ala or mo, not. 
 ilah, do not. 
 
 lilakpo, a knobbed stick carried by 
 officers, 129. 
 
 ;Mateh, the god who has charge of tlu 
 
 ocean, 152. 
 Matro, Gelele's half-brother, the lieu 
 
 tenant of the Gaou, 249, 445. 
 Mau, the moon, also the moon fetiche 
 
 473. 
 Mau, God, 461. 
 Mauno (moon mother), the chief priestess 
 
 of Mau, 26 1. 
 Mau-ji, moon-sky (the west), 
 ilbau, a pot. 
 Men, in. 
 Men, to make. 
 Men, a person. 
 "Menaiye," we will go. 
 Menaiye Kpon Menhuwu-uhunglo- 
 akhie, the seventh section of the 
 king's So-Sin Custom, 24it. 
 Menduton, the state cannibals, 367. 
 Mengotcn, or Menjoten, the head 
 
 caboceer of Alladah, 88. 
 Menho-blutoh, the Braggadocio com- 
 pany, 214. 
 Menhuwu, human sacrifice. 
 Men-san^-attob gbe Gelel^, the fourth 
 
 section of the Attoh Custom, 379. 
 Mensiiio, a childless woman. 
 Mentadokameu, calabashes with skulls, 
 
 260. 
 Menta pwe, the stool with twenty-seven 
 
 skulls upon it. 
 Menta - zinkpo, Gelele's war stool, 
 
 261. 
 Meseh, we hear. 
 Mehokih, the second market day held 
 
 at Kana. 
 Men, the prime minister of the Left, 
 
 445. 
 Meu-huwu-gbe, the sixth section of the 
 
 Attoh Custom, 359. 
 Mi, our. 
 Minh, all. 
 Mino, our mothers, one of the titles of 
 
 the Amazons. 
 Minokaynan-gbe, the fifth .section of 
 
 the king's So-Sin Custom, 228. 
 Mino-zolin-wa-gbe, the fifth section of 
 
 the Attuli Custom, 357. 
 Mnan, the madcap company, 343. 
 M'nun, a face. 
 Mon, as you stand, just so. 
 Mpengula or Mpeugala, the si.xtli 
 monarch, 451. 
 
 NADrDE.\Gon, tlir Amn7<)iii.in Avo- 
 
 gan. 
 Nah, L 
 Namyin, to allow to go, to " pa.ss." 

 
 GLOSSARY OF DAIIOMAN WORDS AXD TITLES. 
 
 Namyinkpo, a royal stick, against which 
 
 there is no opposition, 147. 
 Nateh, the keeper of the tish in the 
 
 sea, 473. 
 Nanreo, a Krooman. 
 N'daboh, silence, 168. 
 Nenun, okro soup, 492. 
 Neptunes, large brass pans. 
 Nesu, the tutelary deity of Abomey, 
 
 206, 472. 
 Nesu-hwe, a Nesu temple, 206. 
 Ningan, the prime minister, 444. 
 Nkoveh, a marsh in Mahi, 335. 
 N'lan, an animal. 
 No, within. 
 No, mother. 
 Nonpwento, one of Gelele's brothers, 
 
 291. 
 Notoh, a courtyard, 287. 
 Nquahshu (Ashanti), we compliment 
 
 you, 134, 249. 
 Nquaveh, thecaboceerof Ampasim, 318. 
 Nu, a thing, 
 
 Nuage, one of Gelele's brothers, 291. 
 Nukon, before. 
 Nukun, the e3'e. 
 Nun, mouth. 
 Nun, a man. 
 Nun, side. 
 
 Nuududu, fetiche offerings. 
 Nun-kpou-gbe-Addokponton, the first 
 
 section of the Bush king's So-Siu 
 
 Custom, 272. 
 Nunpwe, an under-cloth, 487. 
 Nunu, a cloth. 
 
 Nunupweto, the omnipotent cloth, 215. 
 Nunupweto-hun, the all-powerful drum, 
 
 217. 
 Nutob^, Gezu's Bush king's mother, 
 
 266. 
 Nyan, to sneeze. 
 Nyekpleh, a razor. 
 Nyckpleh-hentoh, razor-women, or 
 
 Blue-knives, 195, 254, 456. 
 Nyesinsyu, the "strong names" of a 
 
 pei-son, 208. 
 N-je-un, okro soup in Whydah. 
 Nyi, a proper name. 
 Nyin, a sneeze. 
 Nyisyensyen, see nyesinsyn. 
 N'yoh, good, 197. 
 N'yoha, bad. 
 
 Ogoh, a knobbed stick, 164. 
 
 "Oko-dhu," I compliment you, 91. 
 
 Okoo, alive. 
 
 Okro, Hibiscus esculenttis. 
 
 Oku, immortality. 
 
 Owuh, the body. 
 
 Owu-chyou, a body-cloth, 70, 488. 
 Owutunun, the officers of the house- 
 hold, 446. 
 
 Pakhey, a fetiche place near Kuna, 
 
 149. 
 Panigan, a gong-gong or cymbal, 19. 
 Palaver, a debate, dispute, suit, or 
 
 argument. 
 Panigan, the watch from 11 till noon. 
 Panigauafwan, the watch from 3 to 
 
 6, A.M., 172. 
 Panigan-huuto, a state herald, 19. 
 Patinsa, Aho"s gate iu the Abomey 
 
 palace, 391. 
 Pitto, native beer, 494. 
 Pwe, the shed before a palace gate, 89. 
 Pwe, small, 
 Pweh, able. 
 
 Quixux, the chief trade captain, 446. 
 
 San, to throw. 
 
 Sapatan, the small-po.x; god, 471. 
 
 Sau, yesterday. 
 
 Saw, to-morrow. 
 
 Sayan, the thunder shrub, to protect 
 from fire. 
 
 Se, to listen. 
 
 Senune, Agongolu's mother, 266. 
 
 Sevi, an evil-doer. 
 
 Si, a tail. 
 
 Si, oi- asi, a wife. 
 
 Sigi, dice. 
 
 Sigi-toh, a game like backgammon. 
 
 Sin, to tie up. 
 
 S:n, water. 
 
 "Sin-diyye" "Sin-koh," a salutation, 
 91. 
 
 Singbo, a storied house, 88, 385. 
 
 So, thunder. 
 
 So, a horse. 
 
 Sogan, the Horse captain, 197, 446. 
 
 Sogbaji, the English quarter at Why- 
 dah, 45. 
 
 Soh, bring. 
 
 Soh, a sti(;k. 
 
 Soh, a hill. 
 
 Soh-daho, a mountain, 303. 
 
 Sohwe, a fetiche post with a blood- 
 stained top, 353. 
 
 Soomal), a trap. 
 
 Sosingbe (Horse -tie to-day), the first 
 section of the king's So-Siu Custom, 
 186.
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAIIOMAX WORDS AND TITLES, 
 
 528 
 
 Sosoton, Niiigan's Lieutenant, 439. 
 Srah, the slaves' quarters. 
 Sun, to grow. 
 
 Sundehgbwe, a Malii salutation. 
 Susu, luck. 
 
 Swish, earth, especially when tempered 
 lor building purposes, 9. 
 
 Tabl, a tambourine. 
 
 Tabla, a fetiche hat, with looking- 
 glasses on the Haps. 
 
 Tab, the head. 
 
 Takpwonun, the hippopotamus fetiche, 
 473. 
 
 Tansino, fetiche priestesses who repre- 
 sent the ghosts of the deceased king's 
 mothers, 208. 
 
 Tavosa, Akabah's mother, 408. 
 
 Tavosagbonun, Tavosa's gate, 408. 
 
 Te, small. 
 
 Tegbwesun, the fifth monarch, 450. 
 
 Ten, in the place of. 
 
 To, the sea. 
 
 — a town. 
 Toh, a canoe. 
 he does. 
 
 father. 
 
 Tohunbonuu, the gate of Tohun, 406. 
 
 Tokpo, the assistant Matro, 45ti. 
 
 Tokpodun, the alligator fetiche, 473. 
 
 Tokpon, a state pavilion, 353. 
 
 Tometti, Gelele's brother. 
 
 Ton, it is. 
 
 Ton (an affix), belonging to. 
 
 Tononun, the chief eunuch for Gezu, 
 446. 
 
 Tro, a philtre. 
 
 Tun, the noise of a hammer. 
 
 Twin-ii'ons, crescent-shaped iron in- 
 struments used in the Bo-fetiche. 
 
 U, that. 
 
 Ugoh, shea butter. 
 
 Ugoli, the large shea butter-tree near 
 
 Abomey, 156. 
 Uhon, gate. 
 Uhon-nukou, the open space before a 
 
 gateway, 64. 
 Uliunglo, the second market day, held 
 
 in the Uhunglo market, hence its 
 
 name. 
 Uhunglo market, between the Coomas- 
 
 sie and Abomey palaces. 
 Uhwaweh, a district near Abomtv, the 
 
 first station of Daho, 86, 152. 
 Uzun, to charge. 
 
 Vatkh, a cloth bag. 
 
 Vedoh, to think. 
 
 Vi, son of. 
 
 Videkalo, the Amazonian treasurer, 
 
 234. 
 Vic (Ashanti), to come. 
 Vie kjjo (Ashanti), the king comes, 
 
 195. 
 Visetigan, the lieutenant of the Yavedo, 
 
 213. 
 Vo, red or ripe. 
 
 Vodoh, one of Gelele's brothers, 291. 
 Voilun, fetiche in general. 
 Vodunkpo, a fetiche stick. 
 Vodunnodemen, the shrine of Mahi 
 
 fetiche, guarding the chastity of the 
 
 king's wives, 154. 
 A''u, a lie. 
 
 Wa, a shark. 
 
 doing or making. 
 
 "VVae ! yes, or I am here. 
 
 "Wan, to live. 
 
 Wemeh, or Wimeh, the watch from 
 
 noon till 3 p.m., 172. 
 Wemeh, a flute, 172. 
 Wenou, one of tlie caboceers of Akp- 
 
 weh, 132. 
 Whe, the sun. 
 
 Whegbo, a town near Akpweh, 97. 
 Whenukhodotoh, singers, 170. 
 Whohau (Ashanti), I accept it, 134, 
 
 249. 
 \Vi, black. 
 Widulie, a camp. 
 Woh, a pudding, 491. 
 
 a river, 309. 
 
 Wonh, a portentous event. 
 
 Wuleh, shining. 
 
 Wul-leh oo-oeh ! the military salute, 
 
 21. 
 
 Yah, they. 
 
 Yavedo, the chief eunuchess, 213. 
 
 Ye, a shadow, omen. 
 
 Yegeeh, hallo ! oh ! (sui-prise or pain). 
 
 Yeou, the Harmattan, 39. 
 
 Yeovoh, or Avo, a white man, 211. 
 
 Yeovohe, white man's birds, canaries. 
 
 Yewo noli, a missionary, 60. 
 
 Ye-whevi, a nxulatto. 
 
 Zaho, a storeroom, 496. 
 Zan, night.
 
 624 
 
 GLOSSARY OF DAHOMAN WORDS AXD TITLES. 
 
 Zankuku, the fetiche for the king's 
 
 i,'host, 290. 
 Zan men huwu woiih, the sixth section 
 
 ol' the king's So-Siu Custom, 238. 
 Zan men huwni wonh addokpon, the 
 
 fifth section of the bush king's So- 
 
 Sin Custom, 285. 
 Zeigan, to lift up. 
 Zen, a pot. 
 
 Zenmen-toh, a potter. 
 Zenweh, fetiche captains, the Boro. 
 Zin kpo, Ashanti (daybreak) the signal 
 
 for the finish of the king's drinking, 
 
 144, 241. 
 Zinkpoh, a chair. 
 
 Z6, the rainy season. 
 
 Z6, fire, also the god, 471. 
 
 Zobemi, the principal market at "Why- 
 
 dah, 4.5, 5(5. 
 Zogbodo, the tuft of hair on the top of 
 
 a woman's head. 
 Zogbodomen, a town near Aglime, and 
 
 tlie name of a market d;iy, 109. 
 Zi)huhun, one of the regiments, 447. 
 Zohu, to walk. 
 Zoindi, Gelele's mother, 265. 
 Zomaihiemen, the market in the N.W. 
 
 quarter of Whydah, 27. 
 Zun, the hedge defending a town, 389. 
 Zuru, a heap. 
 
 BRADBI-RV, Ar.NKW, & CO., rRINTKr.S, WHITFIFHIAES.
 
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