y S// mi a. cud Ulu^aum}"^ 
 
 UC-NRLF 
 
 
 *B Mh^ 3fi3 
 
 THE LETTERS 
 
 OF THE LATE 
 
 JAMES FAWCUS, M.1). 
 
 FOR PR IV A TE C IR C UL A T10N. 
 
 EDINBURGH. MDCCCLXXVU 
 

 GIFT OF 
 
 RCFESSOR C.A. KOFOID 
 
THE LETTERS 
 
 OP THE LATE 
 
 JAMES FAWCUS, M.D. 
 
 FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION. 
 
 < - 
 
 EDINBURGH : THOMAS AND ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE 
 
 PRINTERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO THE UNIVERSITY. 
 
 1877. 
 

 GIFT OP 
 
 PROFESSOR C.A. K0FO!O 
 
Gr- 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 EARLY YEARS, ... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE TO THE EAST, AND LETTERS FROM 
 
 THE HELLESPONT, 20 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 LETTERS FROM PARIS, STRASBURG, VIENNA, Etc., . . 63 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LETTERS FROM INDIA AND CHINA, . . 80 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 LETTERS FROM NEW ZEALAND AND INDIA, . . . 126 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 LETTERS FROM CALCUTTA, . . , . . .147 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 THE LAST LETTERS FROM INDIA, 180 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 LAST LETTERS, 187 
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE LAST WEEKS, 
 APPENDIX L, 
 APPENDIX II., 
 
 195 
 203 
 
 204 
 
 M217171 
 
LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 EARLY YEARS. 
 " The child is father of the man." 
 
 I did not think to look upon my young brother's grave, or to 
 tell the story of his life when it was ended. 
 
 I shall try to convey to his children some idea of their gentle 
 good father, although I know well that I can never picture him 
 to others as he lives in my memory. 
 
 It was a sunny spring afternoon April 19, 1833 when my 
 brother, James Fawcus, 1 was born in Dockwray Square, North 
 Shields. He was the seventh son of our parents, the youngest 
 of their eleven children. He was a lovely child, very fair, with 
 deep blue eyes, and hair of a silvery brightness. A most angelic 
 and sweet expression rested on his fine softly-moulded features. 
 We used to watch, as he lay in his cot, for the smile which 
 always came as soon as he wakened and recognised us. In 
 babyhood, as in after years, he was noted for sweetness of 
 temper. His loving nature was expressed in his outward form 
 and in all his ways. He used to give his little hand so trust- 
 ingly, and in all his behaviour was charming. I have often 
 asked him for toy or sweetmeat, that I might see the gladness 
 with which he would present them. 
 
 Obedience, the virtue of childhood, seemed to belong to his 
 nature. He never quarrelled with his brother or playmates, 
 because he was free from selfishness, and ready to oblige and 
 yield. He was always fond of animals, especially of dogs; 
 often in his letters from far countries he inquires for his dumb 
 
 1 We learn from the parish records of births, marriages, and deaths, kept 
 in Warkworth Church (Northumberland), and from the inscriptions on the 
 family tombstones in the adjoining churchyard (the dates of which go back 
 to 1698), that previous to my grandfather's time our name was not spelt 
 " Fawcus," but "Fawkes," and sometimes "Foulkes." 
 
 A 
 
2 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 favourites. He early showed his brave nature and fearlessness 
 of danger for himself. Once, when he was five and I nineteen, 
 he placed himself between me and some cattle, bidding me not 
 to be afraid, saying, " I will defend you, Allie." Often since, 
 thinking of my faithful, true-hearted champion, the words of 
 the bereaved father in the old Border ballad have come home 
 to me 
 
 " I durst hae ridden the world round 
 Had Christy Graeme been at my back." 
 
 My father died at the age of forty-six, when James was only 
 four years old. He was a kind and good father, a brave, 
 sincere, God-fearing man. 
 
 Though James was thus early bereft of a father's care, 
 
 " Yet pleasantly his childhood sped 
 Upon his mother's sheltering bosom, 
 His life was like a garden spread, 
 Each day was like an opening blossom. 
 
 And soon his merry boyhood came, 
 Each day he grew in strength and stature, 
 But kept his childhood's heart the same, 
 His winning ways and gentle nature." * 
 
 Three months after we lost our father, death came again to 
 our home, and gathered a sweet flower, a sister, six years of 
 age. All day we had watched the dying child, and often our 
 little Jamie's joyous voice and laughter had been heard in the 
 distance during these sad hours. In the evening he was brought 
 into the sick-room in his night-dress to be kissed as usual. I 
 held him up to give a last kiss to Margaret's cheek. " Dood 
 night, Maggie," said he, smiling; and then, as she made no 
 answer, nor regarded, a look of wonder and gravity came over 
 his bright features. The contrast between the two was most 
 touching : Jamie, radiant with health and beauty, bending like 
 a bright cherub over his dying sister ; and she, unconscious, pale, 
 and wan, passing into her last sleep. 
 
 I have another vivid recollection of James on a happier 
 occasion, his seventh birthday. He was a frequent guest 
 with us, the bright morning star of our home as well as of his 
 mother's. A short time before, we had given a magic-lantern 
 party, which he had greatly enjoyed, and he therefore made a 
 proposal to "bring his birthday" to his sister's house. We 
 gladly assented. I think I see him now in his blue dress 
 coming to our door, a maid-servant along with him bearing a 
 
 1 Lines to James, written by his brother-in-law. 
 
HIS EARLY LIFE. 3 
 
 basket of cakes, the birthday in a visible shape, a troop of 
 little friends following with rosy, smiling faces. It was the 
 happiest of parties. 
 
 The good old custom of perpetuating family names was fol- 
 lowed by our parents. James was named after one of my 
 mother's grandfathers, James Hunter, a saint-like character, who 
 retired from the world after the death of his wife, and led a sort 
 of hermit life for more than forty years afterwards in the house 
 of his daughter on the banks of the Tyne. His grave is in the 
 beautiful churchyard of Eyton. My mother's ancestors were 
 mostly Puritans. By nature and training she was strongly 
 imbued with religious sentiments. " The peace which passeth 
 understanding " disclosed itself in all her looks and movements. 
 She had a sweet, serene temper, and was full of the milk of 
 human kindness. She was orderly and clever in the manage- 
 ment of her large family. In all relations of life she was 
 faithful, much loved by her father, husband, children, and 
 friends. James, as he shows in his letters, had a deep and 
 tender affection for his mother. She was his ideal of what a 
 woman ought to be. It was his highest praise to say of any 
 one, " She is like my mother." When first left a widow, her 
 youngest, with his sweet gracious ways, was an especial comfort 
 to her. As he lay on her bosom in early mornings, she used to 
 teach him hymns and Bible stories. He was nurtured in an 
 atmosphere of love. The love of God and of his fellow-men 
 was implanted in his childhood, and these religious lessons and 
 precepts, learnt from his mother, bore fruit in riper years, even 
 though he might then imagine he had "reached a purer air," and 
 no longer had faith in " her early heaven, her happy views." 1 
 
 James's first lessons were taught by his sisters. His home 
 was by the sea, and in his early childhood he used to play on 
 the rocks and sands of Tynemouth Haven. 
 
 Isabella, our eldest sister, who since has been laid in the tomb 
 by the side of her young brother James, was his kindest and 
 best teacher. 
 
 Isabella's delight was to make the younger children happy. 
 She had a most felicitous way of managing them, understand- 
 ing their feelings, sympathising in their pleasures. She resorted 
 to no punishment, nor desired unnecessarily to impose her will. 
 Her banner over them was love. She spent hours on the shore 
 
 1 My dear mother is living yet (1877), in her eighty -sixth year. But her 
 life of active usefulness, of " unhasting, unresting" diligence, is ended. She 
 is helpless from paralysis, but patient, sweet, and uncomplaining, having only 
 loving thoughts. Her mind is kept in perfect peace. Nothing grieves her, 
 nothing troubles her now. She seems already to belong to that world where 
 sorrow is unknown. 
 
4 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCTJS. 
 
 directing their play. She herself loved the open air and the 
 fresh sea-breezes. In summer days James and the others 
 would run barefoot on the sands, sporting at the edge of the 
 waves. Isabella was never angry with the unfortunate, those 
 who, too venturesome, were overtaken by a wave, or who slipped 
 and fell as they retreated from its advance : she was the 
 consoler on these occasions. 
 
 Often I have seen her returning with a joyous band, assisting 
 the flagging steps of the wearied ones, not hurrying nor dragging 
 them on, laden herself with spades or pails or sea-treasures, 
 sparing every one but herself. My brave, true-hearted, unselfish 
 sister, she also has left a blessed memory. 
 
 When James was nearly ten years old he was sent to Mill 
 Hill School, where he remained for two years, winning optimes 
 and commendations. In 1844 he spent his summer holidays 
 with us in a farm-house near Kenilworth, where we then lodged. 
 During that time he wrote daily letters to his mother. The 
 docile child of eleven did the appointed task well. The simple 
 record of those days is before me, carefully and clearly written. 
 I give one letter as a specimen ; it is characteristic of his gentle 
 nature. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Villiers Hill, July 3d, 1844. 
 It is a fine rainy day for me to write you a long letter, which 
 I intend to do. L., Henry, and I were fishing yesterday in a 
 pond. In the first pond that we went to, L. caught an asp, 
 or what you call in the north " ask." We then went away from 
 that pond to another, and I caught a perch. After that we went 
 to a very nice pond. I put my line in beside a bush, and went 
 to sit next to L., and watch my line. I saw a bird go into the 
 bush two or three times, so I went to see what was there, and 
 I found a nest with a dead bird in it. I pulled it out, and I 
 went to sit beside L. again. The bird that the nest.belonged to 
 began to chirp very loud. I went again to the place, and saw a 
 young bird, which I caught hold of, and the mother fluttered 
 about, and made a great noise. When I found what distress 
 the mother was in I put the nest in its place, and the young 
 one in it. By and by when I came to look at it, the mother- 
 had taken it away to take care of it. 
 
 In January 1846 James entered Leamington College as a 
 day-pupil, having his home with us. Very pleased he and I 
 were with the change. The following year, when we left 
 Leamington, my mother came to live there in our house, that 
 
HIS EAKLY YEARS. 5 
 
 her two youngest boys might continue to have the advantage 
 at once of a home and a good public school. She had comfort 
 and pleasure in watching the progress of her youngest children. 
 James was alike a favourite with boys and masters. One of the 
 latter, an exiled Pole, used to call him an " exemplarry boy." 
 
 At Christmas 1848 James left Leamington College, and came 
 to us in Cumberland, pursuing his studies under my husband's 
 direction. He decided to enter the medical profession, and 
 diligently worked in preparation for that object. My husband 
 and he used to take long mountain excursions, and James thus 
 became well acquainted with the country round Derwentwater, 
 learning mineralogy and other lore from the book of Nature. He 
 was a steady and docile pupil, needing no pressing, but ever fultjl- 
 ling the tasks appointed him. It is a time of pleasant memories, 
 of rambles by river and lake and mountain-sides, of kind 
 farewells, of welcome returns after brief absences. How often 
 I have watched from the How Hill, in the winter afternoons or 
 evenings, when the ground was crisp with frost, in the twilight, 
 or by the light of moon or stars, until I saw Fanny (the white 
 pony) crossing the bridge over the river Derwent ; and then as 
 I listened, the hooting of the owls alone breaking the stillness, 
 I would hear the tramp of Fanny's feet, and a clear young voice 
 would send shouts to me along the lane (knowing that I was 
 there), and presently the forms of both would be at the gate, 
 and I would feel the fresh cheek pressed to mine, and breath of 
 " caller air," as he stooped from the pony to embrace me. 
 
 Lately, as my husband and I were passing a spot near 
 Bassenthwaite Lake, we recalled a sunny afternoon in the 
 summer of 1847. Isabella, my good sister, and James had gone 
 with us in the pony-phaeton to enjoy a picnic. I seemed to see 
 the fair gentle boy of fourteen, with the usual sweet look of 
 content on his beautiful face. I have many visions of him of 
 that summer; riding bare-backed on the pony to the brook, 
 laughing joyously ; or with can in hand going to catch minnows 
 in the river Derwent ; or rowing in the boat on the lake, always 
 innocent and gay. There were many small jokes at that time, at 
 which we used to laugh until the tears ran down our cheeks. 
 And now, those jokes, those days that are no more, are remem- 
 bered with the sad tears of sorrowful recollection. 
 
 James used to join heartily in sports, but I never knew him 
 say or do anything rude or unkind. His tolerance of short- 
 comings or infirmities of temper in others was remarkable, even 
 in his boyhood. Like a good Newfoundland dog, he would bear 
 with cheerfulness the quips and sallies which might have vexed 
 another. 
 
 I have letters of every year of his life, beginning when he was 
 
6 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 eleven. We used to say of his boyish letters that they only 
 contained bare facts. He was always sincere and modest, made 
 no pretence nor display on any occasion. To me in their un- 
 broken sequence all these ever kind amiable letters, with simple 
 details of his daily life, are full of interest. 
 
 These few extracts from letters to his mother will suffice to 
 indicate his progress until he was eighteen. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 The How, Keswick, Feb. 2Qth, 1849. 
 
 I have begun Eollin's Ancient History, and when I have 
 finished the introduction I have to make an abstract of it from 
 recollection. I have also begun Turner's Chemistry, and now 
 I am busy making an extract of it. I am reading Eutropius 
 in Latin. L. also questions me when we are out walking 
 together. I have ordered a book on Vegetable Physiology. 
 When you come will you bring Mrs. Marcet's Conversations on 
 Chemistry ? 
 
 TO the same. 
 
 March 5th, 1849. 
 
 L. and I went up to the black-lead mines in Borrowdale. 
 On our way we saw the salt spring, which is at the other 
 end of the lake. L. thinks it might be made more useful 
 if it were known. After we had explored and planned how 
 the place could be beautified we proceeded on our way to 
 Borrowdale. We went by the Bowder Stone, which, I think, 
 I have already told you of, but when you come you shall 
 see all these wonders. The black-lead mines you would not like 
 to see for various reasons. You have to carry a tallow-candle in 
 your hand ; dirty water drops down from the top of the mine, 
 and in some places the red water mixed with clay is two or 
 three inches deep unpleasant to walk through. There was also 
 a strong sulphurous smell, which I know you are not fond of. 
 The vein runs horizontally into the mountain. The black- 
 lead lies beside a dark rock which is very hard, and has also a 
 little black-lead in it. After we had gone 450 yards, the mine 
 goes straight down. L. descended, but he would not let me 
 go with him, because it looked so dangerous. The country 
 people in Borrowdale formerly used the black-lead for marking 
 their sheep. The ore was discovered by an ash-tree being blown 
 down, and pulling some black-lead up with its roots. 
 
EARLY LETTERS. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 
 The How, April 13th, 1849. 
 L. and I rode to Lorton yesterday. There is a mineral 
 spring not far from the village ; it tastes much like Leamington 
 waters. We took a walk along the Cocker, and went into Lorton 
 churchyard, where we saw a musical gravestone, which rung 
 like a gong when we hit it with our hands, even though we were 
 sitting upon it. We saw lambs for the first time this year on 
 the mountains. Our dog Wag went with us, and he is very 
 tired this morning. I finished the introduction to Eollin the 
 other night, and have begun Vegetable Physiology. I would feel 
 very much obliged if William could get me an air-gun, because 
 the summer is coming on, and 1 want to get some small birds, 
 which will soon be leaving us. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Derwent Bank, March 31st, 1850. 
 I write to wish you many happy returns of your birthday, 
 and to tell you how much we would like to be with you on that 
 day, but as that cannot be accomplished, we must be content 
 with meeting about the 14th of April, and spending my birth- 
 day together. I intended to send you a bunch of violets as a 
 birthday present, knowing that that would be as acceptable as 
 anything I could send you, but I could only find a few sweet- 
 scented ones. I am glad you like the little spruce- fir that 
 Isabella brought you ; it is a very healthy one, but I am afraid 
 it will not live more than two or three years in the smoky 
 atmosphere of Shields. The larch-tree which you admired in 
 our front field one the poet Southey helped to plant in com- 
 memoration of Waterloo is coming out in leaf and flower. The 
 light green of the early spring contrasts beautifully with the 
 little red flowers. I send you two or three of the flowers, be- 
 cause perhaps you do not remember them, or may never have 
 seen them. I think you would enjoy coming here for a fort- 
 night ; the country is beginning to look very beautiful. 
 
 In the summer of 1851 James passed his entrance-examination 
 at University College. It was the time of the Great Exhibition, 
 and my mother and I went up to London with him to see him 
 comfortably settled. In a brief memoir of him which appeared in 
 the British Medical Journal, Nov. 1871, it is said, " By his love 
 for his profession, the sweetness of his temper, and utter unself- 
 ishness of his nature, he won the love of his teachers and fellow- 
 students." He used to confide all that interested or occupied 
 his mind to us, sure of our sympathy. He was as a son as well 
 
 
8 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 as a brother to us. Of medical and scientific subjects he wrote 
 to my husband, on more trifling matters to me. Often he 
 would send me extracts from books which had pleased his fancy 
 or which he thought would please me. I quote one extract 
 from Guesses at Truth (p. 248), which seems to me now to 
 express the yearning and reverence of my own heart for him. 
 
 TO ALLIE. 
 
 " During the last few pages I seem to have been walking 
 through a churchyard, strewn with the graves of those whom 
 it was my delight to love and revere, of those from whom I 
 learnt with what excellent gifts and powers the spirit of man 
 is sometimes endowed. The death of India's excellent bishop, 
 Eeginald Heber, in whom whatsoever things are lovely are 
 found, has already been spoken of. Coleridge, who is men- 
 tioned along with him, has since followed him. The light of his 
 eye is also quencht, none shall listen any more to the sweet 
 music of his voice, none shall feel their souls teem and burst as 
 beneath the breath of spring, while the life-giving words of the 
 poet-philosopher flow over them. Niebuhr too has past from 
 the earth, carrying away a richer treasure of knowledge than 
 was ever lockt up in the breast of a single man. And the 
 illustrious friend, to whom I alluded just now, he who was 
 always so kind, always so generous, always so indulgent to the 
 weaknesses of others, while he was always endeavouring to make 
 them better than they were, he who was unwearied in acts of 
 benevolence, ever aiming at the greatest, but never thinking the 
 least below his notice, who could descend, without feeling that 
 he sank, from the command of armies and the government of 
 an empire, to become a peacemaker in village quarrels, he in 
 whom dignity was so gentle, and wisdom so playful, and whose 
 laurelled head was girt with a chaplet of all the domestic 
 affections, the soldier, statesman, patriot, Sir John Malcolm, he 
 too is gathered to his fathers. It is a sorry amends that death 
 allows us to give utterance to that admiration which, so long 
 as its object was living, delicacy commands us to suppress. A 
 better consolation lies in the thought that, blessed as it is to 
 have friends on earth, it is still more blessed to have friends 
 in heaven. 
 
 " But in truth, through the whole of this work, I have been 
 holding converse with him, who was. once the partner in it, 
 as he was in all my thoughts and feelings, from the earliest 
 dawn of both. He too is gone. But is he lost to me ? Oh 
 no ! He whose heart was ever pouring forth a stream of love, 
 the purity and inexhaustibleness of which betokened its 
 
EARLY LETTERS. 
 
 heavenly origin, as he was ever striving to lift me above myself, 
 is still at my side, pointing my gaze upwards. Only the love 
 which was then hidden within him has now overflown, and 
 transfigured his whole being ; and his earthly form is turned 
 into that of an angel of light. 
 
 
 Thou takest not away, O Death, 
 Thou strikest ; Absence perisheth ; 
 
 Indifference is no more. 
 The future brightens on the sight, 
 For on the past has fallen a light, 
 
 That tempts us to adore." 
 
 Dear Allie, I send you this extract in order that you may 
 know what sort of a man Julius Hare is. Although he is one 
 of the most learned men in Europe, he makes not the least 
 display of his learning, and seems scarcely to be aware of it. 
 
 I have not been careful in choosing this extract, but I think 
 it is characteristic, and one in which his modesty and love is 
 truly shown. I think the allusions to his brother Augustus 
 are especially beautiful, but you shall judge of the whole book 
 for yourself in a short time. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 London, July \ith, 1851. 
 You will be glad to hear that I have passed my examina- 
 tions. It is a great relief to me, for this last has been a very 
 anxious week. I am going up for honours in Chemistry, but 
 it is no consequence if I fail in that, which I am almost sure to 
 do, as the other students that are going up have been taught 
 by the examiner himself, and he will be sure to ask such 
 questions as he laid most stress upon during his lectures. 
 
 In the spring of 1852 James spent some holidays with his 
 mother in Derbyshire. They had invited me to join them 
 there, but I was prevented doing so. 
 
 They had a pleasant time together. James was an accurate 
 observer of Nature, and my mother delighted to listen to his 
 explanations of all they saw. He had already acquired much 
 scientific knowledge, and he had a most happy mode of con- 
 veying information, making things simple and clear in his own 
 quiet modest way. 
 
 In his early manhood he retained much of the simplicity of 
 his childhood, and the same ingenuous expression of counten- 
 ance. As his brother-in-law used to say, he carried a letter of 
 introduction in his face. 
 
1 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Before he got his appointment in Eenkioi Hospital he had 
 to have an interview with Sir James Clark. There had been 
 some objection made to his youth ; he was only twenty-two. 
 He said to Sir James that he had been told by a lady that he 
 looked like thirty. Sir James smiled, and remarked, " I think 
 she must have been a very young lady." 
 
 The thoughtful and intelligent expression of his countenance 
 was beyond his years ; but his fair ruddy complexion, slender 
 figure, and a certain look of candour and trust, made him seem 
 youthful enough. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Matlock, April 23d, 1852. 
 
 We received your letter, and were sorry to find that we could 
 not have the pleasure of seeing you just now. The weather 
 has been fine, but exceedingly dusty. Mother says that the 
 roads remind her of Cheltenham, and I suppose all roads on the 
 limestone rock are dusty in dry weather. The rocks here are 
 very perpendicular and picturesque, and are full of caverns and 
 rents like those at Caldbeck. 
 
 There are a great number of old mines in them, supposed to 
 have been worked by the Romans. A small quantity of lead is 
 still got out of some of them, but there is so little of it that it 
 was passed by the old workers as not worth the labour of 
 working. 
 
 We have seen Chatsworth, Had don Hall, and Bakewell since 
 I wrote to you. You will see from the small picture which I 
 send you that Chatsworth has quite the look of a modern house, 
 although part of it is very old. The gardens are laid out in the 
 most expensive manner, and I should think are among the 
 finest in the world, with large conservatories and hot-houses, 
 running streams and fountains. We saw one jet-d'eau playing 
 which was ninety feet high, but sometimes one is playing which 
 rises as high as two hundred feet on high days, visits from the 
 Queen, etc. I will send you two or three pictures which will 
 give you a good idea of the scenery round Matlock. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Buxton, April 25th, 1852. 
 Before I received Allie's letter in which she said you wished 
 me to see Buxton, mother and I had agreed to spend two or 
 three days there, in order that we might see the caves of Castle- 
 ton and other places near more conveniently. We left Matlock 
 at ten this morning, I on the top and mother inside the coach. 
 
EARLY LETTERS. 
 
 'he day was as fine as we could wish it to be, the sky clear, 
 dth a few fleecy clouds, and scarcely any wind. The distance 
 from Matlock to Buxton is twenty miles, and the scenery 
 between these two places, I should think, is as fine as any in 
 Derbyshire. You can imagine how much I would enjoy the 
 drive after coming from London. There were many things 
 which reminded me of Cumberland, and I was thinking of you 
 and your country all the way. The pass over the Peak is like 
 some part of Whinlater, but the rocks on each side being lime- 
 stone fissured, covered with ivy, and having yews here and there 
 growing amongst them, are more picturesque and beautiful. 
 On a stormy day I should think the pass of the Peak would 
 look very wild, for the hills are bare and the stone walls and 
 crags look very grey and cold ; but it will never look anything 
 like so grim as we in our journeys together have seen many of 
 the passes in Cumberland. 
 
 The dark yews to-day in the bright sunlight contrasted 
 beautifully with the light grey limestone crags. 
 
 On our road we passed Haddon Hall, one of the oldest 
 baronial houses in England. Part of it was built by the first 
 of the Peverils. The next time I read Peveril of the Peak I 
 shall enjoy it more. There are many descriptions of scenery in 
 it of which I have but a dim recollection, and which I was rather 
 apt to skip, from the greater interest which I took in the story. 
 
 We arrived here at two o'clock, and after walking about until 
 six, we had a bath. The temperature of the water is 80. It 
 has very little taste. The solid contents are small, and con- 
 sist chiefly of chloride of magnesium, and sodium and 
 carbonate of lime. The wonderful effects which it is said to 
 produce are supposed to be due to the nitrogen which it holds 
 in solution. It contains about one cubic inch of carbonic acid 
 and four cubic inches of nitrogen in the gallon. The Duke of 
 Devonshire is doing a great deal for Buxton. A large piece of 
 ground to the west of the town is just now being laid out by 
 Paxton as pleasure-grounds to be open to the public. The town 
 is very clean, built of sandstone. Half of the houses, I should 
 think, are lodging-houses. It is rather too much exposed, and 
 will be too cold for invalids in the months of spring, but in 
 summer I think it will be very pleasant. There is a theatre 
 and public billiard-rooms to enliven the persons drinking the 
 water. We intend going to Castleton to-morrow, and parting 
 on Thursday or Friday. Mother cannot go round by Keswick 
 this time. She hopes to see Allie in July. 
 
 P.S. I shall write to you when I am in London, and tell you 
 all the rest I have seen, and I hope it will be a better letter 
 than this. 
 
1 2 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Nov. Uth, 1852. 
 
 Although it is a long time since you heard from me, I have 
 not the less been thinking of you indeed, I fancy rather more 
 of late. . . I go to the College every day, and return home again, 
 each day being a repetition of the day before. On Saturday, 
 however, I made a little variety, and went down to Chelsea 
 with the intention of seeing the Duke lying in state, but I was 
 obliged to rest satisfied with seeing the crowd. I should think 
 there never was a more dense crowd. Six persons died from 
 the pressure, and numbers fainted. From the outside the 
 perspiration upon the people appeared to rise like smoke from 
 a chimney. They looked as if they were on fire, and some who 
 had retreated appeared to be melting. Several of our students 
 who had attempted to get in were glad to escape, thankful 
 that their ribs were not crushed. I penetrated for a short dis- 
 tance into the crowd, but when I felt my ribs pressed so that 
 I breathed with difficulty, I thought the good to be obtained 
 was not in proportion to the suffering to be gone through, and 
 therefore made my retreat. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Oct. Uth, 1853. 
 
 I AM quite ashamed of having been so long in writing to you, 
 and can scarcely forgive myself for my neglect, but still hope 
 for your forgiveness. I am much more occupied this year than 
 I was last, although the work which I have had to do is easier. 
 Most of my time is spent at the hospital, where I am officiating 
 as clinical clerk to one of the physicians. My chief duty is 
 to write what are called " histories" of the patients previous 
 to their admission into the hospital. It would be better to call 
 them biographies, or memoirs, for none are sufficiently long to 
 merit the dignified name of history. I like my present course 
 of study much better than that of last year. I am thankful to 
 have got out of the dissecting-room. I have got a ward full of 
 women to look after. Most of them behave very well, some 
 the contrary. There are three nice little girls in at present. 
 It is painful to see one sinking gradually, but the pleasure 
 of seeing the other two recovering makes up for it. 
 
EARLY LETTERS. 1 3 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Nov. tih, 1853. 
 I have been so busy this week that I have scarcely had a 
 moment to spare. Just now I am what is called " active dresser," 
 that is, I am busy at the hospital the greater part of the day 
 dressing ulcers, stumps, drawing teeth, etc., and I am generally 
 very tired before my day's work is accomplished. Last night 
 the students did me the honour of electing me secretary to the 
 Medical Society, a post which will entail on me a good deal of 
 work in the way of letter and report writing, but which, although 
 troublesome at present, will be of benefit to me. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 December 5, 1853. 
 
 I have just finished a long report of a Medical Society meet- 
 ing, and I cannot finish off my evening's work better than by 
 writing to you. It is a long time since I have heard from you, 
 but I shall see you in less than three weeks, and that is far 
 better than receiving letters. 
 
 I have been dining out the last two days. My friend Adams 
 is in London, and invited me to dine at his father's house. I 
 called to see Mr. William Smith 1 (whom you met in Cumber- 
 land), and he dissected a brain with me at my lodgings, and I 
 showed him some curiosities with my microscope. I dined with 
 him yesterday at his sister's, Mrs. Weigall. 
 
 There were two daughters and a son at home. All were nice 
 people. I was particularly pleased with the eldest daughter. 
 Eustace Smith was also of the party. In the evening we 
 went to church together, and heard the son of your old friend 
 Mr. Bickersteth. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER, 
 
 February 27, 1854. 
 
 Your letters are always very acceptable, and eagerly looked 
 for in the Post-Office window every morning. I am now busier 
 than ever, for in addition to my other duties I have accepted 
 the post of clerk to Dr. Jenner at the Children's Hospital. The 
 time for visiting the little patients is 8.30 A.M., and the hospital 
 is distant from my lodgings about a mile and a half, so you see 
 I have to commence work pretty early in the day. . . . Time 
 passes very quickly with me. It seems a very short time since 
 I left you at Christmas ; I hope the six weeks which separate 
 us will pass equally quickly. 
 
 I heard David Masson, our Professor of English Language, 
 deliver a splendid lecture on Education at the opening of the 
 
 1 The author of Thorndak. 
 
1 4 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Arts end of the College to-day. I think him the most eloquent 
 man I have ever heard. " Ardent, vivid, vivacious, yet sober 
 and quiet withal," so Carlyle describes him. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 March 9, 1854. 
 . . . The Children's Hospital was formerly one of the resid- 
 ences of the nobility, so that its external appearance is less 
 formal than that of most other hospitals, and when in the 
 interior the difference is still more striking. The floor is strewn 
 with toys, with which many of the children are joyously playing ; 
 few are so bad as to lose all relish for amusement. I am very 
 glad that I have been appointed clerk, because this will enable 
 me to become well acquainted with the diseases of children. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 September 2, 1854. 
 The cholera gives us a great deal to do, that I had forgotten 
 to answer your letter. . . . You must not expect to see me at 
 Shields. I should like to remain here until the cholera is gone. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 September 7, 1854. 
 
 .... If you knew how much I have had to do during the 
 last fortnight, you would not be surprised that I forgot to 
 answer mother's letter. The cholera has been dreadful. Five 
 of my patients died last night. The mortality is above 50 per 
 cent. I have had more than my share of work to do. My 
 colleague was knocked up, and has left London. I have been 
 up four nights this week, but it is all over now. I shall not 
 have much more to do, for we have got additional help. It is 
 a most melancholy sight to see the poor patients dying, no 
 remedy producing the least effect in the latter stage of the 
 disease. But it is a still more melancholy sight to see the 
 friends of the patients, and to tell them of the death of their 
 relatives. We have admitted three of one family at different 
 times, and they have died one after another. Two of the same 
 family have died in other hospitals. I have had to tell a father 
 first of the death of his wife, and then of two of his children. 
 I myself am as well as ever I was in my life, notwithstanding 
 the work which I have to go through. Don't show this letter 
 to mother. It will make her anxious. 
 
 P.S. I shall not think of leaving London until the epidemic 
 is over. 
 
HOSPITAL WORK. 1 15 
 
 His conduct during this epidemic was greatly admired. He 
 took double duty, and " was up " four nights in succession. He 
 feared nothing for himself, and his brave spirit probably pre- 
 served him. He came to Derwent Bank as soon as his duties 
 were over, to have the change of air and repose he so much 
 needed. 
 
 Many sad details he gave us. I remember he mentioned how 
 a mother who had left her daughter ill the previous night, and 
 had been admitted in the morning unwittingly by one of the 
 nurses, looked for a moment rejoicingly at the bed on which 
 another young woman about the same age, and with hair of 
 similar colour, was lying convalescent. At first the poor mother 
 thought it was her own child, but in an instant she saw her 
 mistake, and utered a shriek of despair as the truth was revealed 
 to her mind. Her child had died in the night, and another had 
 taken her place on the same pallet. 
 
 James had made post-mortem examinations, and been inces- 
 santly occupied. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 June 2Qth, 1854. 
 
 I WAS at King's College Hospital on Saturday, and saw 
 Fergusson do some minor operations. There were no cases of 
 cleft palate in the hospital, but a student told me that about a 
 month ago Fergusson operated very successfully on two cases. 
 When they left the hospital little peculiarity could be detected 
 in their voice ; before being operated on they spoke scarcely 
 intelligibly. Fergusson, in the last edition of his Surgery, says 
 that he has operated on twenty-six cases, and has been success- 
 ful in all but three. The failure in these three cases he attri- 
 buted to " want of skill in dealing with the stitches." In one 
 case also the patient was too young. 
 
 With respect to the voice he says : " In some instances there 
 has scarcely been an appreciable difference, but in others, and I 
 am glad to say the majority, the effect has been most gratifying. 
 In some the change of tone has been perceptible at once, while 
 in others many months have elapsed ere much could be noticed ; 
 in all instances where there has ultimately been great improve- 
 meat, correct modulation of tone has been acquired only after 
 the lapse of some considerable time." 
 
 I was rather amused at Fergusson's magnificence. He drove 
 up to the hospital door in a very large carriage with two horses, 
 and footmen before and behind. Every one seemed to treat him 
 with great respect, and there was such a bustle when he ap- 
 peared. He walked along the hospital passage in a stately 
 manner, graciously smiling and nodding to a few of the students. 
 
1G LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 It was like a triumphal procession; the sound of the trumpet 
 alone was wanting. The few small operations that he did were 
 performed in a most elegant manner. He used the knife as if 
 he were playing with it, just as you see some people cutting up 
 apples after dinner. The expression of his face was peculiar, 
 indicating coolness and indifference. It was evidently partially 
 assumed. He now and then stopped, made some remark, and 
 smiled whilst performing the operation. He has a habit of 
 elevating his eyebrows, pouting his lips, and approximating the 
 right angle of his mouth to the eye of the same side, by which 
 he appears to mean to say " See how cool I am !" 
 
 TO L. 
 
 ... It is rather difficult to answer your question about the 
 amount of water in the human body, but I should think a 
 rough calculation would be sufficient for your purpose. In 100 
 parts of blood there are 79 of water ; in 100 of muscle, tendons 
 and cartilage, etc., 70 ; in 100 of the animal matter of bone, 70 ; 
 in 100 of bone there are 33 parts of water. Thus from this we 
 get in 100 of blood and bones together, 70; in 100 of the 
 other constituents of the body, 70. It will not be very far wrong 
 to say that the body contains 70 per cent, of water. But 
 mummies also contain a great deal of water, I cannot say how 
 much very likely as much as a piece of dry fir- wood. I will 
 talk with any scientific friends that I have on the subject of 
 burning the dead, and will communicate results to you. 
 
 P.S. Seven weeks more of hard work for the M. B., and then 
 I shall see you. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Fever Hospital, Feb. 19/A, 1855. 
 I think I must devote this letter to giving you a description of 
 the Fever Hospital, and my life in it. I shall not say anything 
 about the external appearance of the hospital, for you must know 
 it as well as I do. It is the first large red brick building which 
 we used to pass every day when we lodged in Theberton Street, 
 on the way to the "Hangel." I hold no office here, but am just 
 staying with my friend Dr. Buchanan to help him to look after 
 the patients. The central portion of this building is the dwell- 
 ing-house of the resident medical officer. . . . The male wards are 
 on one side of us, and the female on the other, and both are 
 separate from the house by a passage which is exposed to the 
 purifying winds of heaven. We get up rather late during the 
 
HOSPITAL WORK. 1 7 
 
 cold weather, but for all that much time is not spent in bed. 
 Hospital officers never go to bed early. You know sick people 
 are always worst for the first few hours of the night. We spend 
 a considerable part of the time between breakfast and dinner 
 in the wards or in the post-mortem house. We both find that 
 the Fever House agrees well with our health, and think that 
 we might do worse than recommend it to people wanting a 
 change" of air. The evening we spend in the drawing-room, 
 where we have tea, and amuse ourselves with reading entertain- 
 ing and instructive books, medical and others, trying to play 
 on the flute, talking, etc., until bed-time and after it. You see 
 this is a very delightful sort of life, but unfortunately it must not 
 last long. I must retire shortly into lodgings to read, for I 
 have read but little for the last year, my time has been so much 
 taken up with the practical study of medicine. I have proposed 
 March 1st as our parting day, which neither of us likes, although 
 we both see the necessity of it. I have lately become acquainted 
 with Morley, the editor of the Examiner. He is one of the 
 cleverest and best-natured men I know, remarkably gentle and 
 amiable for a literary man. His style of writing is very charm- 
 ing to me, it is so simple and melodious. I think you would 
 dowell to order some of the books for your club, such as the 
 Life of Palissy the Potter, or Jerome Cardan. The weather 
 here is frightfully cold. Last night the thermometer was 23 
 below freezing. On Friday night I was down at Blackfriars 
 Bridge from eleven until two, looking at a tremendous fire, which 
 illuminated London and the country for ten miles around. The 
 windows of the houses two miles off were quite brilliant with 
 the reflection of the flames. The fire was close by the water- 
 side. The Thames looked extremely beautiful. Large blocks of 
 ice covered with white crisp snow were floating up it ; the fire 
 made them appear pink, and the intervening water was of a 
 brilliant red. The bridge was crowded with people, and cabs 
 having spectators on the tops, shafts, steps, and wheels. Every 
 now and then, when a roof fell in, or the flames blazed up 
 unusually high, such a curious murmur arose from the crowd 
 not loud at- all, but so diffused and universal, produced by each 
 individual making a slight exclamation. Have you read 
 Thackeray's Rose and the Ring? It is so clever and pretty, 
 and so beautifully illustrated. One little picture of Betsmda 
 dancing before the king and queen is exquisite. I should like 
 to be at Keswick now for the sake of the skating. I should 
 think the lake is frozen a foot thick, and if this weather con- 
 tinues will soon get frozen to the bottom. In London there 
 is nothing attractive in cold weather. 
 
1 8 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 March 18th, 1855. 
 It is very unlikely that I caught small-pox at the hospital, 
 as I at first supposed, for I find that the incubation period of 
 sinall-pox is fourteen and not seven days, and I did see a slight 
 case of varioloid a week before going with you to the Small- 
 pox Hospital. Please tell Allie that I am much obliged to her 
 for her offer to nurse me, but I cannot think of accepting it ; I 
 should be in continual fear of her catching the disease. The 
 old hospital nurse is very attentive. I have not begun to get 
 better yet, but I am little worse than when I first wrote to you. 
 I think the disease has now reached a crisis. I shall not 
 regret having had small-pox ; it will teach me to sympathise 
 with my patients. The last week has appeared to me like a 
 year. I have been restless and full of pain. I shall be able 
 to go about small-pox patients now without fear. I am afraid 
 my letter is not very clear. It just reflects the condition of 
 my head. 
 
 P.S. Mother might know now, perhaps. 
 
 to his mother. 
 
 Fever Hospital, March 19th, 1855. 
 Since I last wrote to you, as you already know, I have had 
 small-pox, which I can now tell you from personal experience 
 is anything but an agreeable disease. For one week I was 
 very ill. My nights appeared interminably long. I scarcely 
 closed my eyes for three nights. L. came up to see me, 
 but I had just awoke from sleep, and was recovering when he 
 came into the room. I am happy to say that my misery is now 
 all over, and the blessings of convalescence are in store for me. 
 I have agreed with L. to be in Keswick in a few days, 
 and should be delighted to see you there. I have been remark- 
 ably fortunate in having a nice sick-room. Directly I discovered 
 the eruption I came here, and I have been treated with extreme 
 kindness by Dr. Buchanan. Dr. Jenner also has seen me every 
 day. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 27 Euston Place, June 1855. 
 John has just been here, and brought with him what Carlyle 
 would call an Eidolon of you. I am sorry to say it is nothing 
 more than the Eidolon or ghost of what a likeness of you ought 
 
HOSPITAL WORK. 1 9 
 
 to be. For some time I hesitated whether it should share the 
 fate of your other likeness, but at last I came to the conclusion 
 that it is better than nothing, and have therefore resolved to 
 keep it. I enclose you two extracts from a book of poems by 
 Gerald Massey. 
 
 June \iih. Mother and I expect that you will come to 
 London, and shall be much disappointed if you do not arrive 
 to-morrow. London is very delightful just now. The country 
 around is looking very beautiful, and the Opera and Eoyal 
 Academy are open. Dr. Carlyle is in London, and he expressed 
 a great desire to see you. Do not be later than Monday, for 
 fear that I may be gone before you arrive, and so not have time 
 to see anything with me. 
 
 I went gladly and helped to prepare his outfit for the East. 1 
 He delighted to show mother and me the sights of London, and 
 he took me to the Opera, of which he was passionately fond. 
 My mother had to leave us a few days before James sailed, and 
 I was left alone with him until the day of his departure. How 
 often I have bade him farewell, and always the parting was sad, 
 the last " casting its shadow before." 
 
 1 He was appointed assistant physician to the hospital of Renkioi on the 
 Dardanelles, which was established, under the superintendence of Dr. Parkes, 
 in the rear of the hospitals in the Crimea and at Scutari. He also volunteered 
 for the Crimea, and was for some time attached to the hospital of the Light 
 Division at the front. For his services there he received the thanks of the 
 officers, and afterwards Sir William Codrington procured him the Crimean 
 medal. It was characteristic of him that he left immediately after the duties 
 were over, that he might not in any way share the merit of his military 
 medical friends. After returning to Renkioi, where he served till the end of 
 the war, he was also appointed assistant-surgeon to the Land Transport 
 Corps, which had at that time over six thousand mules at the Dardanelles 
 and a large number of men. Here, at Abydos, he remained some time. "He 
 discharged," says Dr. Parkes, " both sets of duties with great zeal and very 
 ably. He was at that time only twenty-two years old, full of vigour, very 
 strikingly handsome, and with a sweet, never-ruffled temper which made him 
 a favourite with all. His service in the East was very pleasant to him, and 
 he enjoyed greatly the active, energetic life he led there." 
 
20 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 CHAPTEK II. 
 
 JOURNAL OF THE VOYAGE TO THE EAST, AND 
 LETTERS FROM THE HELLESPONT. 
 
 Part I. Extracts from the Journal. 
 
 " And all we met was fair and good, 
 And all was good that Time could bring." 
 
 In Memoriam. 
 
 July 9th, 1855. 
 
 July ith. Came on board the " Bacchante " this afternoon 
 about eight o'clock with anything but a pleasurable sensation, 
 although I had been so long looking forward to that event 
 joyfully. The captain had not received orders to take us on 
 board, so we had to wait until orders came from London. 
 
 July 5th. Sailed this morning about three o'clock. Got up 
 about seven, and saw the banks of the Thames on either side. 
 Passed Eamsgate, Deal, Dover, Hastings. Saw the masts of 
 a steamboat like our own, which had come in contact with 
 another ship, and sunk opposite Deal. Made the acquaintance 
 of my fellow-passengers, Mrs. Hall, Miss Parkes. Talked a 
 good deal with Bader about the state of the peasants in Swit- 
 zerland, etc. He expresses himself very strongly against the 
 Austrians and Prussians, especially against the latter. 
 
 July 6th. To-day we have been sailing along the south 
 coast of England, but at a great distance from shore. Paid 
 farewell to England : Start Point was the last piece of land we 
 saw. 
 
 July 10th. Last night a wave or two came in upon Playne 
 and me in the midst of our sleep. I would like sailing if I 
 could only get properly washed. This evening passed the 
 Busting Eocks and Cape Penitchi. The coast appears very 
 beautiful. We can see windmills, houses, churches, but we 
 are not sufficiently close to see the people. The weather is still 
 colder than when we left London. 
 
 July llth. This is the first day at sea that I have really 
 enjoyed. We sailed with a favourable wind all day at the rate 
 
VOYAGE TO THE EAST. 21 
 
 of eight miles an hour all day. Turned the point of Cape St. 
 Vincent in the middle of the day and began to sail eastward. 
 The rocks at Cape St. Vincent are very bold and high ; they 
 remind me much of Marsden in Durham. At the extreme 
 point there is a lighthouse, and behind it a convent, the windows 
 of which we could distinctly see, but up to this time we have 
 not seen a single human being. The people appear to be fond 
 of keeping indoors ; they don't properly appreciate their beauti- 
 ful country. It must be taken from them, and given to some 
 who can make use of it. It is now in a fit state to be overrun 
 again by Goths or people from the north. The English if they 
 are turned out by the Eussians had better settle here; the 
 country would have a very different appearance if inhabited 
 by them. The stars appeared beautiful this evening ; Venus 
 was directly t)ver the stern of the ship and reflected a silver 
 path on the sea. I learnt several constellations from a young 
 doctor. 
 
 July 1 2th. The wind this morning was strong against us as 
 we passed Cape Trafalgar and through the Straits of Gibraltar. 
 The African coast is very fine and bold. There are several 
 steep overhanging barren rocky mountains, and some valleys 
 which appear fertile. One very steep bare rock is placed 
 exactly opposite Gibraltar. The mists were disposed about 
 them very beautifully. As we sailed into the harbour of 
 Gibraltar (about four p.m.) the water became perfectly smooth, 
 and we began to feel the power of the sun, but it was not too 
 hot to be pleasant to me. We sailed near the shore for a short 
 distance and saw cactuses, aloes, and palms growing among 
 the rocks. When we arrived at the landing-pier there were 
 several naked Spanish boys, quite brown, diving and turning 
 head-over-heels into the water, at the same time gesticulating 
 vehemently and calling to each other in Spanish. The German 
 and I did not wait for the ladder, but jumped on shore from 
 the ship. We were immediately accosted by a wideawake- 
 looking inhabitant, whom we afterwards found to be half African 
 and half English. He scarcely lef c us all the time we were on 
 shore, and took care that we should see all the wonders of the 
 place. We first walked up the main street of the town ; saw 
 some Highlanders getting drilled in the sun on an open place 
 by the roadside. The groups of people that we met in the street 
 appeared very singular to me. We met Moors, Jews, Spanish, 
 English soldiers and officers in successive groups. The Spanish 
 women go about without bonnets, many of them carrying merely 
 a fan to keep off the sun, and to keep themselves cool. Some 
 of them are extremely beautiful. We bought oranges and plums 
 in the marketplace very cheap. They smelt nice, but that part 
 
22 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 of the town had an intolerable smell of onions. I have been 
 told the Spanish are very abstemious, eating nothing almost 
 but an onion with water for dinner and supper every day. 
 We saw one very fine Moor, with a beautiful smooth brown 
 skin, well supported by adipose tissue. He excited our 
 admiration, for he looked so good-natured, contented, and happy, 
 but at the same time alive and intelligent. The groups of 
 children, too, were delightful to behold. The fair Scotch and 
 English girls contrasted prettily with the Spanish, with their dark 
 brilliant black eyes and well-defined eyebrows and olive-coloured 
 skins. I don't know which I preferred. The slight superiority 
 of the Spanish in sprightliness of expression was fully com- 
 pensated for by the charming innocence of the north-country 
 children. I was pleased to see the way in which several of the 
 Spanish little girls received plums which I gave them. Some 
 of the young Spanish women appeared amused at my behaviour 
 to the children. I felt highly gratified at seeing so many pretty 
 women after my long sea-voyage with the nurses. After we had 
 taken a good survey of the town we made our way up the hill 
 in a broiling sun towards the galleries of fortifications, but not- 
 withstanding the heat, in consequence of our pleasure in being 
 on shore in a beautiful country, we toiled joyfully and vigorously 
 up-hill. We were amply repaid for all our labour. The views 
 were magnificent. I never enjoyed scenery so much in my 
 life. Water, a wide expanse in three directions, bounded 
 by hills and mountains; the water smooth and blue, with 
 many ships sailing about ; beneath us the town ; soldiers drill- 
 ing, and a very bad band playing, which nevertheless sounded 
 well at our distance. In climbing, sometimes we were almost 
 fried, and at other times the wind was almost strong enough to 
 blow us away. I was wet through with perspiration, but I toiled 
 away, perfectly happy and joyful. The German and I were the 
 only two who got to the top of the fortifications. In the even- 
 ing we bathed in the harbour. The water was very refreshing, 
 neither too hot nor too cold. It was full of little phosphorescent 
 animalcules, which emitted light wherever the water was dis- 
 turbed. We durst not swim out far for fear of sharks, which it 
 was too dark to see ; neither of us liked the idea of having 
 even a toe carried off. After my bath I had a splitting head- 
 ache, felt completely paralysed, and then was sick, but after 
 that I felt as well and happy as possible. Went into the town 
 again, and drank iced ginger-beer. Then I came on deck again 
 and smoked and talked with Bader for an hour, and so my day 
 at Gibraltar ended, about as happy a one as I ever passed. 
 I feel as if I shall never be able to live in England again with- 
 out longing for the south. 
 
VOYAGE TO THE EAST MALTA. 23 
 
 July 13th. This morning we sailed again at five; I wished 
 to have another bathe, but we sailed an hour earlier than I 
 expected. 
 
 Tuesday, July 17th. For the last few days we have been 
 sailing monotonously across the sea. The first day, land on the 
 south of Spain was just in sight, but we could only see the out- 
 lines of a few mountains, which appeared to be very high. We 
 have occasionally seen porpoises and turtles swimming about. 
 On the 14th we passed two boats picturesquely rigged with 
 long pointed sails reaching higher than their masts. These 
 the captain considered to be pirates on the look-out for a be- 
 calmed sailing vessel. There was a heavy swell on the sea all 
 that day without a breath of wind. The waves, as the prow of 
 our ship struck against them, very much impeded our progress, 
 so that we scarcely sailed more than four miles an hour. The 
 weather has been warm, but not too hot. I am looking forward 
 to another swim at Malta, which I am sure will do me good. 
 To-day we are between Sardinia and Africa, opposite the island 
 and rocks of Galita, where Captain Marryat was drowned in 
 the " Avenger." The rocks are steep, high, and barren, running 
 directly into the sea without any extension of base. 
 
 July 22d. We arrived at Malta about seven o'clock on the 
 morning of Thursday (July 19th), and left it about one p.m. of 
 the same day. -Upon the whole I was not so much pleased with 
 Malta as with Gibraltar, although I was very glad to get on 
 shore again, and enjoyed myself very much ; I bathed twice 
 before landing and before coming on board again. The second 
 time I stayed in the water about twenty minutes ; I was so 
 warm that I could have remained in much longer. The Maltese 
 boys got a great many pennies from our ship's company by 
 diving ; they are very clever divers ; I don't think they missed 
 catching a single copper. 
 
 The town of Malta (Valetta) has a much more foreign 
 appearance than Gibraltar. Several of the streets are composed 
 of stairs. The windows of nearly all the houses project some- 
 what in the Elizabethan style. The town has a general aspect 
 of cleanliness, and all the houses are built of light yellow stone, 
 of a texture nearly identical with that of the new Houses of 
 Parliament. We went into the church where all the knights 
 are buried. The general effect of it was grand, but we had not 
 time to enter into minutiae or to criticise. A great number of 
 people of all classes were kneeling, saying prayers and counting 
 beads. Several priests with three-cornered black hats were 
 walking about the church. Malta seems to swarm with these 
 men. One of them, who had a better countenance than the rest, 
 
 E,o be dying of phthisis. We took a rapid survey of 
 
24 LKTTEBS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 the Armoury and of the Grand-Master's Palace. The knights, to 
 judge from their armour, cannot have been very tall men. 
 There is not one suit of armour that stands more than 5 ft. 10 
 high. One old fellow, if he filled his armour, must have been 
 quite a Jack Falstaff. 
 
 I had my hair cut, bought light jacket and trousers, and ate 
 ices. It was extremely hot. We saw some oranges growing, 
 but they were quite small and green. Melons, plums, peaches, 
 apples, and apricots were sold in the marketplace. I saw less 
 of Malta than I might have seen, because the captain told us 
 that we must be on board again in an hour and a half. The 
 island, seen from the sea, appears very barren ; it is almost of 
 a uniform reddish-brown colour. The doors of the houses and 
 shops are very strong and well supplied with locks and bolts. 
 This does not say much for the honesty of the Maltese. 
 
 Three things struck me as being very remarkable in Malta : 
 first, the cats are of a most extraordinary breed they are 
 spare, thin, and active-looking, very much like polecats; 
 secondly, the quantity of beggars that there are ; thirdly, the 
 large proportion of the population who squint and have eye- 
 diseases. 
 
 Ever since we left Malta sailing has been delightful. I have 
 had a bath in a large tub every evening, and this increases the 
 soundness of my sleep. Yesterday morning, July 21st, Cape 
 Matapan came in sight, and towards the evening we were sailing 
 between the coast of Greece and the island of Cerigo. To-day 
 we have been sailing among the islands of the Archipelago. 
 The scenery reminds me very much of the west of Scotland. 
 A fine fresh breeze has been blowing in our faces at the prow 
 of the boat. It is rather tantalising to see these beautiful 
 countries and not be able to land and explore. On the island of 
 Zea we could distinctly see a small town some height up the 
 mountain, composed of very similar white houses which appeared 
 to have no roofs. I hope some day that I shall be able to come 
 and examine these islands more closely. We saw two flying- 
 fish in front of the steamboat this morning while Bader and I 
 were enjoying the beautiful scenery and fine sea-breeze in the 
 front of the vessel. 
 
 July 26th (Thursday). On Monday, 23d, we entered the 
 Hellespont, and about three o'clock p.m., after first going to the 
 consul at Dardanelles, we found ourselves before Renkioi. Dr. 
 Parkes and some others came to meet us, and about half an hour 
 afterwards we came on shore and took a general survey of the 
 hospital. Our quarters were not ready for us, consequently we 
 had to live in tents. Playne, Dix, and I live in a tent along 
 with a Mr. Hall. It is extremely comfortable compared with 
 
DARDANELLES AND RENKIOI. 25 
 
 our sleeping apartment on board of ship. The tent is double, 
 and we keep it open at three places. All night long we hear 
 a continual hum of grasshoppers and various insects. Some- 
 times a jackal comes and howls close beside our tent, and every 
 now and then the English sentinel howls out "Bono," to 
 awaken the Turkish guard who have been appointed to keep 
 off some " Bashi-Basouks " who have rebelled against their 
 English general at Dardanelles, and threaten the surrounding 
 country. Yesterday, early in the morning, we went up the hill 
 to the village of Eenkioi, which is about two miles up the hill. 
 We met with a nice-looking Greek cafe-house keeper, who gave 
 us a lesson in Greek, cups of coffee, nuts, bread, and water, for 
 fourpence. Afterwards we called on Dr. Eobertson, who is 
 comfortably settled in Mr. Calvert's house in order to be near 
 some cases of cholera which he is attending. There have been 
 twenty-five deaths from cholera in the village during the last 
 ten days. It is passing off now. 
 
 July 28th. Yesterday Bader and I got up in the dark of the 
 morning and walked to Dardanelles. By this we avoided the 
 heat, which is tremendous here in the middle of the day. We 
 arrived at Dardanelles about eight o'clock and went to an Italian 
 cafe. We took a survey of the town, made a few purchases, 
 and brought the letters home in a caique. 
 
 Dardanelles, I am told, is a good specimen of a Turkish town. 
 The streets are narrow and full of shops. Very few women are 
 to be met with, and those that one does see have their faces 
 covered, all excepting the eyes, with white cloth. At one end 
 of the town we saw some very nice Greek girls. Lots of Bashi- 
 Basouks were galloping about, looking very fierce. Last night 
 we had a great thunderstorm, but about eight o'clock this 
 morning the rain ceased. Bader and I bathed in the rain, 
 running naked into the sea from our tent ; I enjoyed it very 
 much. We feel it a great convenience to have our tent so near 
 to the sea. Fox and Playne went off to Constantinople in the 
 Bacchante yesterday ; Bader now occupies Playne's bed. 
 
 August 2lst, 1855. So few incidents have occurred since I last 
 contributed to my journal that I have considered it not worth 
 while putting pen to paper for the last few weeks. I have now 
 given up living in a tent, and have taken up my quarters in 
 No. 9 ward, along with Bader and Dix. With the exception of 
 a few walks to the village, I spend every day about the hospital, 
 reading, sleeping, smoking, bathing, and endeavouring to learn 
 the zitter. For a week I have been laid up with a sore finger, 
 caused by the loss of a nail while working in the boat. I have 
 been trying to learn Greek also, but find great difficulty for 
 want of proper books. Nevertheless Polychron and I can carry on 
 
26 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 a tolerably intelligible conversation, for he knows about as much 
 of English as I know of Greek, and the two languages, being 
 joined, made some considerable vocabulary. I am intending 
 to go to the Crimea and Constantinople on Friday along with 
 Mr. Jenner and Dix. It is very pleasant being paid by Govern- 
 ment to amuse myself in travel, etc. The weather is now getting 
 quite cool ; at night a blanket is necessary. The nurses and 
 orderlies are beginning to get discontented for want of occu- 
 pation and amusement. The place is certainly very dull for 
 persons without resources. The cook calls it " a damned low 
 place." The other night one of the nurses called Dr. Parkes a 
 billy-goat, and for this and boisterous conduct was put in a 
 strait-jacket. The new mess-house has been occupied by us now 
 for several days. We find it much pleasanter than the tent ; 
 there is plenty of room, and we have each the luxury of a plate, 
 knife, spoon, fork, and glass. One Sunday I saw the inhabitants 
 of Eenkioi dancing, which is customary with them every 
 Sunday afternoon. TJiey have several different dances, most 
 of which are very slow and simple. One that I saw struck me 
 as being very picturesque. It was composed entirely of young 
 men, each of whom performed a sort of hornpipe, not singly 
 but all together. The colours and form of their dresses are very 
 picturesque, and most of them are elegant figures, and have 
 tolerably handsome faces. The maidens had very little to do 
 with the dancing ; they merely took hold of each other's hands 
 and sidled slowly round in a circle. All the time they kept 
 their eyes modestly fixed on the ground. It is very seldom 
 that I can have any communication with these young ladies ; 
 sometimes when I meet a few alone I find them tolerably affable : 
 I fancy it must be the presence of their brothers or lovers that 
 makes them so reserved and timid. Some of them looked very 
 charming while dancing. They carry adornment of person to 
 a very high extent ; many of them wear necklaces and forehead 
 bands of gold pieces, and this seems to be the chief use of 
 money in this country. 
 
 On the 2 2d of August Dix and I left Eenkioi in a screw 
 steamer (the " Esk"), the captain and owner of which had offered 
 us a free passage to Kamiesh. The next morning we found 
 ourselves aground on the coast of Dardanelles opposite Abydos. 
 There we remained thirty-six hours, until we were lightened and 
 dragged off by another steamboat. On account of this we did 
 not arrive in Constantinople until the evening of the 26th. We 
 entered the Golden Horn by moonlight, and I was very much 
 delighted with my first view of Constantinople. The " Esk " was 
 freighted with a number of French deck-passengers, who were 
 carrying goods, and intended to set up as shopkeepers at 
 
DARDANELLES AND RENKIOI. 27 
 
 Kamiesh. Six of them were women ; one was a pretty young 
 Italian. I practised Trench by conversing with them, and found 
 them the most extraordinary set of people I had ever met. 
 Next day, Sunday morning, went in a caique to Scutari. The 
 hospital in very good order, sweet and clean. Saw Fitzgerald ; 
 Cumming. 27th. Left 5 note in an Italian's shop; returned 
 and received it all safe. Polychron pleased to see us. All 
 together went on an exploring expedition and got a little insight 
 into Constantinople life. Eeturned to our ship about two A.M. 
 Everybody asleep on board. Dix had a small row with an 
 English sailor. 28th. Steamboat obliged to stay at Constan- 
 tinople. Wet day. Went with Jenner up Galata Tower. 
 Smoked cigarettes and drank coffee all the afternoon. Eemarked 
 a lot of jolly little Turks who seemed to be very much beloved 
 by their grandfather. Sailed at seven or eight p.m. and had a 
 splendid moonlight view of the shores of the Bosporus. 
 
 2 9th. Black Sea. Mate taken ill with cholera in the morning, 
 died in evening, and was buried half-an-hour afterwards by 
 moonlight, Dix reading service. Sea looked steely black, 
 excepting one quiet streak of moonlight. Body went in feet- 
 foremost, bent almost double, and steamboat pursuing its course 
 steadily. 
 
 30^. Sea rather rough, wind contrary, passengers sick. One 
 of French passengers seized with cholera. In the evening, light 
 in direction of Sebastopol, which Chapman told us was the 
 reflection of the firing guns. 
 
 31 S . High coast near Balaklava in view; 1 2.30 A.M., Kamiesh. 
 Went ashore alone about four, and walked to Harris's tent. Was 
 shown part of the way by a vivandiere, who spoke despondingly 
 of the condition of the army. Arrived at Harris's tent in the 
 dark, much tired with my long walk. September 1st. Bode along 
 with Harris to meet Dix ; found he had set off alone. 2d. 
 Dix and I rode to Kamiesh to settle with captain and steward ; 
 nothing to pay. On our way back came near the French 
 batteries, and had a splendid view of Sebastopol. 
 
 September 3d. Looked about camp, walking with a serjeant 
 over, the field of Inkerman, and obtained tolerably clear ideas 
 of the valley of Balaklava and the valley of Tchernaya. 
 Sept. 4th. Balaklava with Dix; saw Jenner. Sept. bth. 
 In the morning, heavy cannonading, continuing steadily all day. 
 Harris and I went to the monastery of St. George, where there 
 are a few monks and their wives, a Bussian officer and some 
 rather nice-looking daughters. Went into the chapel, which is 
 much gilded and rudely ornamented. At night, from the picket- 
 house, we could see the harbour of Sebastopol beautifully lighted 
 up from a burning ship. Shells and rockets flying about in all 
 
28 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 directions. 6th. Balaklava again with Dix and Harris. 7 th. 
 Called on Worthington and saw the General Hospital and Scott 
 behind the 14th regiment. Firing continuous. Informed of 
 intended attack. 8th. Set off to obtain a good view of the 
 attack. Could not pass the Lancers, which were drawn up to 
 prevent people from passing. Circumvented them and got to 
 a hill opposite the Malakoff. On our way saw the French 
 advancing in thousands ; English soldiers drawn up hearing a 
 speech from the colonel, and cheering. At twelve o'clock 
 precisely saw the French rise out of the trenches and cover the 
 hill like ants ; French banner advancing slowly to the top of 
 the hill and planted in the centre of the battery. Then the 
 English commenced to fire, making a tremendous noise, and were 
 soon hidden from sight by the smoke. Strong smell of powder. 
 A few balls and shells fell not very far from us. Balls look 
 very pretty hopping along the ground, and appeared almost as 
 innocent as cricket-balls. Day was extremely cold. Watched 
 the fighting for about an hour or two, then went towards the 88th. 
 On our way met Eussian prisoners conducted by the French, 
 some of them severely wounded. Lots of soldiers and officers 
 getting carried on stretchers. Felt anxious to afford assistance, 
 and to take a more active part in the grand fight. When I 
 arrived at the camp my services were very gladly accepted by 
 the surgeon, and I continued at work until twelve at night 
 operating and dressing wounds. 
 
 9th. Heard that Sebastopol was in our hands. Was thanked 
 and treated considerately by the officers of the 88th. The 
 General got me an order to enter the town, and told me that he 
 had taken the liberty of sending in my name to the General of 
 the division, Sir W. Codrington. Passed into the town ; viewed 
 the trenches and Eedan ; soldiers getting buried in the deep 
 trench outside of the Eedan. Ground difficult to walk over, 
 being so much ploughed up by shell and shot. Walked about 
 the part of the town to the east of the bay. The other part 
 was all in flames, and continually exploding. French soldiers 
 plundering. Took a Eussian dog prisoner, and picked up some 
 trophies. 10th. Eode off with my trophies and dog to Bala- 
 klava. Stayed for a day with Jenner. 
 
 11th. Sailed in the "Orient" hospital-ship, towed by the 
 Imperador. 12th. Black Sea ; heavy swell Dix sick as usual. 
 Could not sleep at night for holding on. 1 tth. Constantinople, 
 six P.M. 
 
 Ihth. Went ashore, and on our way met with captain of 
 Bacchante, who invited us on board to dine and sleep. Called 
 on Swan, who lent me money and invited us to come and see 
 him. 
 
IN THE CRIMEA. 29 
 
 September 23d. I have now returned to Eenkioi after being 
 absent for one month. 
 
 October 2d. 215 patients arrived by the Imperador. Veal 
 exerting himself much, and getting excited. No serious surgical 
 case. Only thirty-two surgical cases. 
 
 Patients to be seen standing about the hospital. Probably 
 they will all recover. Miss Parkes walks about as usual, but 
 no doubt doing a great deal of work without making any fuss 
 about it. 
 
 December 29, 1855. Before the year ends I must put a few 
 words in my journal, which has been rather neglected of late. 
 It is true that nothing particular has occurred, with the excep- 
 tion of a journey to Smyrna about a month ago. I sailed along 
 with Holland, Dix, Armitage, Stretton, etc., on the 24th of No- 
 vember, and arrived early in the morning of the next day in the 
 harbour of Smyrna. Holland, Dix, and I put up at Madame 
 Gion's, where we were made very comfortable. We only re- 
 mained one day in Smyrna, and during that time visited the 
 hospital, which we found very much inferior to Eenkioi. Saw 
 silk-mills, fig-packing, and cloth-dyeing. The streets of the 
 town are much cleaner than those of Constantinople, and alto- 
 gether the town has a much more European and less interest- 
 ing appearance than Constantinople. A very large number of 
 pretty girls are to be seen walking about the streets. One silk- 
 factory that we visited was full of Greek girls. All of them 
 had beautiful eyes, and most of them fine features and a lively 
 expression, They are much more free and coquettish than the 
 girls of Eenkioi. They seemed much amused to hear me talking 
 a little Greek with them. 
 
 On Christmas Day we had a family dinner-party, and a dance 
 in the evening. 
 
 Two days ago the orderlies and nurses gave a ball in one of 
 the wards, and on Monday we are to have a ball in our mess- 
 room. The married officers are giving parties, and people 
 generally are endeavouring to make Christmas appear like 
 England. 
 
 March 26, 1856. I left Eenkioi on the 18th of this month, 
 and am now stationed at Abydos as medical officer to the Con- 
 valescent Hospital. As far as I have seen as yet, I have reason 
 to consider myself better off than at Eenkioi. It is true I am 
 very solitary here, and my living is more expensive, but on the 
 other hand I have more time to myself. My rooms are more 
 comfortable, and my duties are more important, for 1 am the 
 only English doctor within eight miles of Dardanelles. My 
 house almost hangs over the sea. The Hellespont is very narrow 
 here, consequently the ships and steamboats pass quite close, so 
 
30 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCJS. 
 
 that I can see their numbers. The villages of Maitos and Cestus 
 are distinctly visible from my windows ; altogether, the view is 
 much more lively than that at Eenkioi. It is delightful to sit 
 smoking with my windows open, listening to the small waves 
 quietly rippling on the shore. Towards sunset the wind generally 
 lulls, and the sea becomes like glass thrown into small broad 
 waves, which, when rendered purple by the light from the setting 
 sun, have a delightfully soothing effect on one's spirits. The 
 hospital is about two or three hundred yards from here. Just 
 now the piers there have a very animated appearance. A few 
 hundred mules are getting embarked and landed there every 
 day. They are very fine strong animals, some of them fifteen 
 hands high, but so unmanageable that it is impossible some- 
 times for five or six men to hold one. They tumble over- 
 board occasionally and cause no end of a confusion. The 
 mule-drivers are about the most picturesque and curious set 
 of men I ever saw: they are collected from all nations, 
 Turks, Arabs, Negroes, Spaniards, Genoese, Greeks, etc. Some 
 of the Arabs are very fine strong men, and their dresses are 
 extremely picturesque and very gaily coloured, I often wish 
 I could take photographs or pencil-sketches of them to carry 
 back with me to England. There are no evident remains 
 of the old town of Abydos here, . but the ground is thickly 
 strewn with pieces of pottery-ware and marble, which have 
 probably at one time helped to form an ancient city. Just 
 behind this house there is an abrupt little hill which is called 
 Xerxes Hill, because Xerxes is supposed to have surveyed his 
 troops crossing the Hellespont from thence. I was told yester- 
 day by an Armenian that there are about 2500 houses in 
 Dardanelles. Of these, 500 are Greek, 300 Armenian, 200 
 Jewish, and the rest Turkish and Frank about 100 Frank. 
 Dardanelles is situate almost on a swamp. To the south of it 
 there is a river about as large as the Derwent between Derwent- 
 water and Bassenthwaite. To the north the ground is very low 
 and swampy. On both sides there are slaughter-houses, and 
 round about there are heaps of dead cattle getting devoured 
 by dogs, crows, and vultures. To the west is the Hellespont, 
 which is very narrow at this place. To the east the country is 
 level and cultivated for about five miles, and then it becomes 
 mountainous and very picturesque. The town is called by the 
 Turks Chanak-Kalessi (or the Castle of the Pots), because there 
 is a strong fort pointing its guns towards the Hellespont, and the 
 chief manufacture of the place is earthenware pots. There are 
 four doctors, an abbe\ and two papas. 
 
 May 14, 1856. Since I last wrote in my journal, I have been 
 going in regularly to Dardanelles every day to see my patients 
 
AT ABYDOS. 31 
 
 at the Land Transport Corps. I am exceedingly well pleased 
 that I have this work to do, for besides the practice which it 
 enables me to see, it also enriches me by 15d. per day, and gives 
 me an opportunity of learning Turkish. I am also fortunate 
 in being thrown much in contact with Crawford, whom I have 
 found to be a most honest and straightforward fellow. His 
 plain, truthful, clear way of speaking and dealing is a wonder 
 and puzzle to the Levantines here, who never can do anything 
 without scheming, planning, and tricking until they overreach 
 
 themselves. , who has been considered a favourable 
 
 specimen of a Levantine, is exceedingly un-English. He 
 never looks one full in the face, and he does things that 
 honest Englishmen would feel ashamed of, such as supplying 
 many things to the Land Transport Corps here at extrava- 
 gantly high prices, but never in his own name. The English 
 Government allows him three per cent, on the expenditure, 
 consequently it is to his advantage to spend as much money 
 as possible, and in this way he gained 10,000 last year. I 
 think he will probably be hauled over the coals for all this some 
 day. Last Wednesday there was a grand review of the Land 
 Transport Corps animals on the road to Eenkioi. About 2000 
 animals were reviewed, and all, thanks to Crawford, in splendid 
 condition. A tent was pitched, and a good lunch provided, 
 after which the Arabs were made to go through their exercises, 
 throwing the jeri, etc. Some of the gentlemen rode races, which 
 were watched with great interest. One party went off to dig 
 for old pots at the site of Dardanus. 
 
 Yesterday a party, consisting of La Fouche, Basilgate, Wind- 
 sor, Preston, Capt. Ereeland, W. Parkes, and myself, formed a 
 picnic to the Genoese castle, a place about seven miles inland 
 from here. The scenery is very wild and grand about this old 
 castle, which now merely consists of a number of strongly built 
 round ruined towers perched on the top of a rocky hill at the 
 entrance to a valley, but at one time it was probably very ex- 
 tensive. Nothing appears to be known of its history, but it is 
 supposed to have been built about the same time as the castles 
 at Smyrna, Balaklava, etc. 
 
 For the last two days the Land Transport Corps animals 
 have been selling by auction. The Eenkioi people have 
 been selling their goods and chattels to the natives of Dar- 
 danelles, and have been casting lots to decide who has to go 
 home first. 
 
 In about another two months I suppose I also will be think- 
 ing of leaving this delightful country. 
 
 June 18th, 1856. On the 6th of this month, Mr. Crawford, 
 Marescaux, Van Lennep, and I set off on an expedition into the 
 
32 LETTEKS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 interior for the purpose of selling mules and horses. We took 
 with us about 100 animals, and a number of Arabs, etc., to look 
 after them. Of our servants the most prominent were Papa 
 Sojolo, Mustaffa (cooks) ; Mustaffa the fietan ; Hussain Hassan, 
 Selim, Mahmet, Dowood, etc., body-guards; Ali, Marescaux's 
 servant. On our first day we rode from Dardanelles to Cham, 
 passing the Genoese castle and following the river Khodias almost 
 to its source, then crossing the mountains, which are thickly 
 and beautifully wooded to their summits. About mid-day we 
 reached the village Tamankioi, where we found the animals that 
 had been sent forward the day before. There we ate eggs, milk, 
 etc., and having rested ourselves, proceeded on our journey. 
 Two or three miles farther on we came to an encampment of 
 Turks, and drank coffee with them. After this we lost our road, 
 and in trying to find it again the party got separated. We 
 passed several very pretty villages with tiled roofs. At one of 
 these villages there is a hot mineral spring and baths. The 
 population of this country consists almost entirely of Turks, 
 and they are a very fine healthy race of people. It was dark 
 long before we reached the little village of Cham. The first 
 thing we did when there was to light a fire, cook a supper, 
 consisting of lamb, eggs, coffee, youart milk, etc. ; then we ate 
 it, smoked narghelies, made our bed in the open air and went to 
 sleep. In the middle of the night I awoke drenched through 
 and through with dew, but soon slept again hydropathically, 
 and in the morning was perfectly dry. 
 
 When we got up we all went down to the river Granicus and 
 bathed. Then, as there was to be no fair that day, we took a 
 ride down the river to a place called Bazaar Kioi. There we 
 called on the chodar, who was very civil to us. Some of the 
 party bathed in a naturally hot chalybeate bath too hot to hold 
 the hand in until it got accustomed to the heat. There is a 
 large ruined mansion here, picturesquely situated, and com- 
 manding a splendid view of the winding of the Granicus and 
 high mountains in the distance. This night we slept in some 
 of the bazaar booths at Cham, and in the morning bathed 
 again in the Granicus. This day the sale commenced, and the 
 horses brought such good prices that Mr. Crawford determined 
 to go back to Dardanelles for more, and accordingly about four 
 o'clock he and I set off with a body-guard of six Arabs. We 
 reached Tamankioi, where we changed horses, at seven, and 
 Dardanelles at about half-past one. 
 
 The next day, Wednesday, about three o'clock p.m., Crawford, 
 Windsor, and I left the yard and went slowly up the Ehodias. 
 On our way we overtook the animals which were sent off a few 
 hours before. Freeman, second assistant, was riding at the 
 
RIDING EXCURSION. 33 
 
 head instead of the foot of the procession, consequently there 
 were many stragglers. By the time we reached the foot of the 
 mountain it began to be dark, so that the animals were stopped 
 and encamped for the night, and Freeman along with them, 
 while Crawford, W., and I rode on to Tamankioi. Selim was 
 left behind with the animals, and was sent to a neighbouring 
 village to look after provisions for the men. Every one whom 
 he asked at the village for eggs, milk, etc., replied " Yok," until 
 at last, his patience being exhausted, he drew his sword and 
 demanded the agha of the village. This man being presented, 
 Selim threatened to cut off his head instantly unless he brought 
 forward eggs, milk, etc. This threat had the desired effect, and 
 the provisions were rapidly produced. Then Selim demanded 
 ten men for a guard, and promised them that if a single animal 
 were missing in the morning, they should all be executed forth- 
 with. This request was also complied with readily. On 
 Thursday morning we waited at Tamankioi until the animals 
 overtook us about mid-day. 
 
 Freeman came a short distance with us and then returned to 
 Chanak. About five p.m. we arrived at Cham, where Mares- 
 caux and Van Lennep were anxiously expecting us. They had 
 been told that we had been robbed and murdered on the way 
 the night before, and were glad to find that they had been mis- 
 informed. 
 
 Early on Friday morning, after bathing as usual in the 
 Granicus, we set off for Baghashere. On our way we stopped 
 at Bazaar Kioi, where I tapped a woman with a quill and some 
 of us bathed in the hot baths ; then in the afternoon we 
 pursued our journey along the banks of the Granicus. The 
 country here is as beautiful as any I have ever seen ; moun- 
 tains forming amphitheatres covered with wood, and verdant 
 valleys with a fine rapid river running through them. The 
 trees were many of them overgrown with the wild vine, which, 
 forming festoons on them, produced a very beautiful effect. 
 As we approached Baghashere we came upon some very large 
 trees, which are rare in this country. After finding a place for 
 encamping the animals, we all rode to the Pasha's house, where 
 we found Van Lennep, who had ridden on in front. The Pasha 
 was very kind, gave us dinner and offered us the use of his 
 house for as long as we might stay, but we preferred encamping 
 with the animals out of doors. In the morning we came into 
 town to a house that the Jew had hired for our use. After 
 breakfast the sale commenced. Marescaux and I went to call 
 on the Pasha, who wished me to see his wife, who was extremely 
 ill. His harem was separate from his house, within a large 
 courtyard. I prescribed some medicine, etc., and promised to 
 
 c 
 
34 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 see her again the next day. In the morning I was received 
 very kindly, and the old Pasha, after telling me that his wife was 
 much better, said that I had been sent by God to save her life, 
 and that his daughters had expressed all sorts of kind wishes, 
 among others that I should have a nice wife who would make 
 me happy. I was also kindly and gladly received in the harem. 
 The little girls especially were glad to see me, and repeated 
 their kind wishes in person. They were all exceedingly pretty 
 and pleasant-looking. 
 
 On our way to this place we got in front of our baggage and 
 commissaries, and lost sight of them. The consequence was 
 that they nearly missed us, and if they had not heard the 
 pistol fired off, we should have been obliged to go supperless 
 and blanketless to bed. The next morning we were up and 
 away by five a.m. The sky was cloudy, and there were a few 
 drops of rain. At twelve a.m. we came on the shore of the Sea 
 of Marmora. The wind was blowing pretty strong from the 
 north, and the waves were dashing furiously on the shore. 
 The Arabs, who were a little in front of us, as soon as they saw 
 the sea, set up a shout, " El Bahr," and commenced singing 
 joyfully. We rode by the Sea of Marmora until we came to 
 the Hellespont. Then it began to rain. We encamped for two 
 hours and got some dinner. For the rest of the day we were 
 riding through the rain, and got thoroughly wet. At six p.m. 
 we arrived at Chardak, where there is a large khan, which 
 received all our horses comfortably. It is apparently built of 
 ancient stones, and supported by Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian 
 columns. We hired a house for ourselves, and here, after drying 
 our clothes, we spent the night very comfortably. Windsor 
 was strutting about very proudly in some Turkish clothes which 
 he had bought at the fair. The next day we passed through 
 Lampsakia, which is a considerable-sized village, partially Greek 
 and partially Turkish, situated prettily on the side of a hill. We 
 then rode by the banks of the Hellespont until we came to 
 Abydos. 
 
 November 1856, Paris. I shall, now that my Oriental travels 
 are terminated, try to complete my journal from a few notes 
 which I have scribbled in my pocket-book, and hope to spend 
 an hour or so very pleasantly in trying to recollect and picture 
 to myself the beautiful country which I have left, I am afraid, 
 for ever. 
 
 July 22d, 1856. "Bacchante" sailed with Parkes, Pigott, 
 Humphrey, etc., on board. I rode to Eenkioi, saw them on 
 board, and watched the vessel steam away. 
 
 August 23d. Set off with Abbott andVarley and 250 mules 
 
JOURNAL. 35 
 
 for Gallipoli. After some trouble with the Turks at Chardak, 
 we managed to get forty mules across to Gallipoli before dark ; 
 Varley and I slept in a cemetery along with these forty. 
 
 24th. Eose at four; no caiques till six. Mules very 
 restless, causing great difficulty in getting them in and out of 
 the caiques, and giving me some idea of the difficulties that 
 Alexander and Xerxes must have encountered in crossing the 
 Hellespont. About three o'clock p.m. left Gallipoli and 
 travelled for one hour to a flat piece of ground near the sea, 
 where I bathed, got the tent pitched, and went to sleep. After 
 sunset Crawford arrived. 
 
 25th. Got up before sunrise, bathed, went ahead with 
 quartermaster's serjeant to a village called Pleiare to pro- 
 vide rations for the men. Eode between the Gulf of Saros 
 and the Sea of Marmora. Sea visible on both sides ; country 
 arid ; no trees ; Gulf of Saros beautifully smooth ; banks moun- 
 tainous on the far side. A few small wooded islands near the 
 shore. Encamped near a village called Tugla, on account of 
 salt springs. Crawford and party did not arrive. 
 
 26th. Eose at half-past three a.m. Found Crawford en- 
 camped about half a mile on the road. Crossed some highish 
 sandstone hills beautifully wooded with fine trees and oak 
 shrubs. The road had been recently traversed by the French 
 artillery, which had left traces, such as French names carved 
 on the stones by the roadside. From the top of the pass on 
 one side we had a splendid view of the Gulf of Saros and Sea of 
 Marmora ; on the other a very extended view into European 
 Turkey ; in the foreground, wooded hills, in the distance moun- 
 tains, and between a broad dry plain. These hills are said to 
 be infested by robbers, and my guide has just given me a hint 
 not to ride on alone. 
 
 As we passed along the plain to our right was a Greek village 
 prettily situated on the hill-side. Farther on we passed another 
 Greek village called Mavris. Then I rode on to find a place 
 for encampment. This I found on the far side of a town called 
 Eishan. 
 
 27th. Set off again in front early in the morning. After- 
 wards was overtaken by Varley and Crawford. Eoad rather 
 uninteresting ; country fertile, but uncultivated. Passed a 
 few villages, all Greek. Journeyed eight hours until we came 
 to a town called Onumkyupry. On the Adrianople side of the 
 town there is a long stone bridge composed of nearly 200 arches; 
 a river runs under one of these arches and turns a water-mill. 
 We chose this place for pitching our tent, and bathed in the 
 mill-race. 
 
 28th. A long journey, nearly nine hours, to Adrianople. 
 
36 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 For the greater part of tlie way we rode by the side of a 
 broad, swift, but muddy and running shallow river called 
 Maryitza. It runs from Adrianople to the Gulf of Saros. 
 About four hours from Adrianople we could see its mosques 
 and minarets quite distinctly, and the air was so clear that it 
 appeared only a few miles distant. Long before we came to 
 the city we passed through groves of mulberry-trees carefully 
 cultivated. The city chiefly stands on rising ground in the 
 angles formed by the junction of three rivers. For miles round 
 about the country appears rich and verdant from the number 
 of trees, mulberry-bushes, etc., which nourish by the side of the 
 rivers. The three smooth broad winding rivers, the multitude 
 of minarets, bright-domed mosques and trees, mixed up every- 
 where with the dark sombre red-coloured roofs, give the city 
 a peculiarly grand and picturesque appearance. We found a 
 place for encampment by the river-side before arriving at the 
 town. 
 
 29th. Called on the Pasha, an old man, who can speak 
 both French and Greek. He is said to be like most Turks, 
 very apathetic, and to spend the greater part of his time in 
 the harem, and his appearance certainly did not belie this 
 report. He told us that 600 English horses were coming to be 
 sold the next day, and this rather made us fear for the sale of 
 our mules. After taking leave of the Pasha we went to the 
 telegraph- office to send a despatch to Constantinople, and then 
 amused ourselves by riding about the town. The streets are 
 broad and clean, and the town altogether appears much cleaner 
 than any Turkish town I have seen. The principal mosque, 
 built by Sultan Selim, is a fine piece of architecture. The 
 decorations and architecture appeared to me purely Turkish. 
 When inside, the dome appeared higher than St. Paul's, and the 
 effect was grander ; the minarets are very high, said to be the 
 highest in Turkey. From the top of one of these I had a 
 splendid view of the town, but the ascent was no easy matter, 
 and before we reached the top our legs ached severely, and we 
 were heated in no slight degree. 
 
 30th. Began selling mules, but got no good prices. Only 
 six were sold. Went to the sale of the 600 horses. They 
 were not fetching good prices. 
 
 31st. Tried to sell again, with less success than before. 
 
 August 1st. To-day we took a ride on mules to a village 
 about a mile from Adrianople where all the Europeans have 
 their country houses. We called on the two brothers Wiltshire, 
 who are the only Englishmen resident here. They trade in silk, 
 and this year appear to be doing well, in consequence of the 
 failure of the silk-worms in France and Italy. We saw some 
 
journal. 37 
 
 Frenchmen who were buying eggs. They were giving 10 for 
 about one pint measure, and they had bought about 150. 
 
 Raw silk this year costs 140 piastres, about 1 the oke (=2f 
 lbs.). 
 
 Aug. 9th. Crawford set off alone by post for Constantinople ; 
 Abbott, with 112 men, mostly Italians, for Dardanelles men 
 rather mutinous at being obliged to walk ; Varley, Harding, and 
 I with the remaining mules for Stamboul. Our first resting- 
 place Rulalee, about seven hours from Adrianople. Neither 
 meat nor cheese to be bought. Our road lay by the side of the 
 telegraph-line all the way. The wire at times passes for miles 
 through a perfectly desert country. 
 
 August Wth, Sunday. Encamped, mid-day, at a place called 
 Burgas, the prettiest Turkish village I have ever seen. There 
 is a fine mosque with marble floor and pillars, built nobody 
 knows when. The streets are clean, in places arched over 
 by vines. Post passed us on the road. Arrived late at night 
 at Charisteran. 
 
 Aug. llth. Arrived at Chorla, mid- day; three men sick; 
 obliged to carry them in the cart. Travelled all night. Great 
 difficulty with the sick-cart, constantly stopping to get them 
 better packed. Just before sunrise we arrived at Silivria, a 
 very old town, with ruined walls, castle, and two ruined churches ; 
 one with a minaret had been used by the Turks. The floor 
 paved with marble, and polished marble pillars. Left Silivria 
 after sunset. About midnight met Crawford and Brack near 
 Buyuk Chockmedjie, where we encamped. Left our sick men 
 at Silivria. 
 
 August 12th. Returned to Silivria in order to accompany the 
 sick by steamboat to Stamboul ; stayed with a Greek gentleman 
 named Panar. One of the sick men was dead when I arrived. 
 
 13th. Waited in vain all day expecting the arrival of the 
 steamboat. 
 
 August 1 tth. Embarked with three patients. One extremely 
 rough; sea rather rough; wind contrary. Arrived at Constanti- 
 nople about three p.m. Put Garland in hospital. 
 
 Jardin des Fleurs, Vasilouec, August \5th. Set sail for 
 Dardanelles about four P.M., in the "Norwood" sailing ship. 
 At Dardanelles the command of 200 Spaniards on board the 
 ship was given me by Mr. Calvert, and I sailed with them 
 for Gibraltar. 
 
 Finally arrived in England, Sept. 28th, 1856. 
 
38 LETTERS OF JAMES* FAWCUS. 
 
 Past IT. Letters. 
 
 to his sister. 
 
 Bay of Biscay, near the Spanish Coast, 
 JulyS, 1855. 
 I felt very sorrowful at parting with you. The ship tosses 
 so much that it is with the greatest difficulty I am able to write. 
 The bottles at dinner-time will not stand on the table. All 
 the nurses and ladies are sick, and all the medicals except my- 
 self, and another who is an old sailor. Notwithstanding all 
 this I am not in the least sick. We bade farewell to England 
 off the coast of Devonshire. I cannot say I felt happy to part 
 with her ; I am afraid it will be long ere I see her again. The 
 sun is now shining, and the sea looks beautifully blue and fresh ; 
 there are only a few little white waves, but there is a fine broad 
 swell (probably produced by some wind near America), which 
 first lifts us high into the air, then sinks us deep into the sea. 
 The nurses are lamenting their folly in ever thinking of going 
 to the East, and cursing the day on which they set sail. . . . 
 Lady Canning, it is said, chose them on account of their plain 
 features. It is not easy to write on board ship. If yOu 
 receive this you may conclude that I have arrived at Gibraltar. 
 I shall write to mother. 
 
 to his brother. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, July 2$th, 1855. 
 We called at Gibraltar and Malta on our way, and stayed for 
 three or four hours at each place. I shall not say anything to 
 you about either place, for you have often heard all about them. 
 Gibraltar pleased me most. The scenery there is very splendid, 
 and I felt it a great relief to put my feet on land after sailing 
 for so many days ; a bath, which I took in the evening, was 
 very delightful. The sea was quite warm and full of phosphor- 
 escent animalcules, which spangled about me in all directions 
 when I splashed. All sorts of queer people were to be seen 
 walking about the streets in strange costumes, which I will 
 talk to you about some day when we meet again. At Malta 
 we remained about three hours, and during that time I managed 
 to see the greater part of the town, and to bathe twice. The 
 
KENKIOI HOSPITAL. 
 
 bathing was extremely delicious, and almost necessary for my 
 existence, because the chimney of the steamboat had been 
 smoking on us for the last three days, and our skins had got 
 dried up with the heat of the sun, which on deck was burning, 
 and reflected on our eyes from the sea. I should recommend 
 no one to travel in a steamboat that can get a passage in a 
 sailing vessel. We entered the Dardanelles on July 23d, 
 Monday. On the Sunday we were sailing amongst the Greek 
 islands. The sea was quite smooth, but there was a pleasant 
 breeze blowing against us. The scenery reminded me very 
 much of the west of Scotland, but it is not nearly so beautiful 
 (at this time of the year at least), for all the mountains are of 
 a uniform dusky yellowish-brown colour, produced, I suppose, by 
 the sun burning up the grass and all vegetables. It was very 
 delightful to stand on the deck at night and see the islands and 
 ships by moonlight, with the moon and stars reflected on the 
 sea, forming paths of light in different directions. Some of the 
 sunsets were extremely splendid one in particular, where the 
 sun set close to Sparta over Mount Elias. Our hospital is not 
 on the Plains of Troy as I expected ; it is about five miles from 
 the entrance of the Hellespont, on the south side. We can see 
 the land on the opposite side very distinctly (it is about five 
 miles across) ; and if we climb up the hill, the Plains of Troy 
 are just beneath us, and we can see Tenedos, also the coast of 
 Asia Minor as far as Mitylene. Mount Ida, too, is close beside 
 us. The English Government has bought about 300 acres of 
 land for us. It consists of a nearly level plain, projecting into 
 the Hellespont, and bounded behind by hills 900 feet high, 
 inhabited by pigeons, eagles, wild boars, jackals, etc. There is 
 plenty of water, which rises to the surface in different places, 
 but does not form any stream on account of the porous, dry 
 nature of the soil. It is a very healthy place, and well suited 
 for an hospital. As yet we have no patients, although Dr. 
 Parkes has reported the hospital ready to receive 500. There 
 is no possibility of my having anything to do for a month. 
 About seven of the hospitals are erected. Each hospital has to 
 contain fifty beds, and they are going to erect enough to hold 
 3000 patients. Our quarters are not finished yet. In the 
 meantime we inhabit tents, which we find a great deal more 
 comfortable than our cabins on board the " Bacchante." Eour of 
 us sleep in one tent, which we take care shall have a pleasant 
 breeze through it all night. It is pitched only a few yards 
 from the sea, and I very frequently have a swim. It is very easy 
 to stay in for an hour, because the water is so warm. I did not 
 sleep very well the first night, because every now and then I 
 was waked up either by a jackal howling, or by a locust buzzing 
 
40 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 past my ear, or by the English sentinel shouting out " Bono " 
 to awaken the Turkish guard. I have now got used to these 
 slight annoyances, and sleep soundly from nine till half-past 
 four a.m. Yesterday morning I walked to the village, which is 
 about two miles up the hill. Three of us got coffee, tchibouks, 
 bread, water, and meat, together with a lesson in the Greek 
 language, for fourpence. Some of the Greeks that I have seen 
 are nice-looking, honest, good-natured fellows. Those about 
 here are very innocent, elsewhere they have a different character. 
 Mother will forward this letter after she has read it. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, August ith, 1855. 
 
 I wish to give you as clear an idea of our quarters and mode 
 of life as I can, and therefore I will draw you a kind of plan 
 of the arrangement of the hospital tents, wash-houses, etc., and 
 enclose it with this letter. The land on which the buildings 
 stand is very flat, but there are mountains 900 feet high close 
 behind us. There is no distinct stream of water, but there are 
 wells and fountains of beautiful water scattered over the ground, 
 water that rises among the hills behind and sinks into the 
 sandy soil before it reaches the hospitals. No patients have as 
 yet arrived, and we have nothing to do but read, bathe, and 
 enjoy the climate. We can only get pears and mulberries to 
 eat for fruit, but the grapes will soon be ripe. Two or 
 three days ago I rode with the superintendent of Smyrna 
 hospital and two or three other doctors to the plains of Troy ; 
 although the temperature was 90 in the shade we did not feel 
 the heat much. When we began to get warm, we put our 
 horses into a canter and so fanned ourselves. Our ride was 
 chiefly over grass-land, sprinkled over with bushes a few feet 
 high. We crossed the Simois and saw the source of the ancient 
 Scamander. At the source of the Scamander I fell in with a 
 pretty little Greek girl, and we soon became friendly. I made 
 use of all the Greek words I could muster, and we managed to 
 keep up a sort of conversation. When I took leave of her she 
 bowed her head almost to the ground, took my hand and kissed 
 it, and wished me goodbye in the Greek tongue very prettily. 
 I find that the modern Greek does not so much differ as I ex- 
 pected from the ancient as taught in England, excepting in 
 pronunciation, and what I know of the ancient helps me in 
 acquiring the modern. 
 
RENKIOI HOSPITAL. 41 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, August 17, 1855. 
 
 We have not any patients yet, and judging from the English 
 papers, which we see here, it appears probable that we shall not 
 have any for some time yet. 1 have accordingly applied for leave 
 of absence to go and see the Crimea, and it is most likely that 
 I shall set off with Mr. Jenner on Friday week (in eight days 
 from the date of this letter). I think it better to go off now, 
 before I am settled in quarters, because I am not spending my 
 time very profitably here. The tent which I live in is so in- 
 fested with insects of various sorts, that when I am in it almost 
 my whole attention is taken up in warring with them. This life 
 suits my health remarkably well ; the heat is never so great as 
 to prevent me from taking exercise, even in the middle of the 
 day. The nights are very agreeable and cool. Last night I 
 was awoke by a strong wind having blown off my blankets and 
 sheets. I spend one hour at least every day swimming about 
 in the Hellespont. This, I think, takes all my fat away, but 
 gives me muscle instead, which is far better. The village of 
 Eenkioi is up the hill behind this hospital about two miles ; it 
 is said to contain 4000 inhabitants, but I rather doubt this, for 
 it does not appear to be so large as Keswick. It supports two 
 papas or priests, and a cavash or Turkish constable. The rest 
 of the inhabitants are all Greeks, most of whom come down to 
 work at this hospital. They are not fond of working, and seem 
 to care little about money, for they sometimes refuse to work 
 although they get paid well. When such is the case, the cavash 
 and some Turks go to the village and bastinado the papa until 
 he sends his parishioners down. 
 
 The Greeks appear to be as fond of dancing as their fore- 
 fathers are reported to have been, and some of their dances are 
 very picturesque. Every Sunday they have a great turn-out at 
 the village. The young men come out in their best clothes, 
 which are remarkable for brilliant colours, and the maids adorned 
 with gold about their forehead, rings on their fingers, and long 
 white gowns, very much like those that you see depicted on 
 ancient vases. The girls do not join actively in the dance, never 
 advancing at a quicker pace than a walk, and always keeping 
 their eyes modestly directed towards the ground. As a rule, 
 they are very much prettier than English girls, and some of 
 them are exceedingly beautiful ; but it is remarkable that there 
 appears to be no intermediate stage between a girl and an old 
 woman. The common Greek men and servants are nearly all 
 good-looking, have elegant manners, and appear much quicker 
 and more intelligent than our workmen and orderlies. I suppose 
 
 
42 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 all this is given them by nature, by means of the warm climate, 
 for they do not work at all, and seem to have no desire to im- 
 prove their condition. Upon the whole, they appear to lead a 
 very happy existence. They live mostly on black bread and 
 onions, and all the money they get appears to be spent in adorn- 
 ing themselves and their families. They are extremely fond of 
 music, songs, and stories. In the evening I often hear one man 
 repeating verses for a.bout half-an-hour without stopping. At 
 present I do not understand enough of the language to know 
 what it is all about. All the land in this part of Asia Minor 
 is very fertile, but in consequence of the misrule of the Turks 
 it is almost uncultivated, and is consequently valueless. The 
 land on which the hospital is built was bought at the rate of 
 1 per acre. 
 
 I do not regret in the least that I came out here as surgeon. 
 It is almost certain that I shall see much more practice than if 
 I were a physician, and in three or four years I expect I shall 
 return to London, and become a student once more. Until that 
 time I hope to employ myself in studying languages, music, 
 and history, and seeing a little of this part of the world. My 
 salary will more than enable me to do all this, which is much 
 more satisfactory than if I were doing it at mother's expense. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Middle of the Black Sea, August 29, 1855. 
 I left Eenkioi last Wednesday in a steamboat called the 
 " Esk," the captain of which was kind enough to offer me and a 
 friend of mine a passage to Kamiesh. The boat is freighted 
 with a great number of Trench deck-passengers from Marseilles. 
 We are the only cabin-passengers. Our voyage up to this time 
 has been rather unfortunate. First, we ran foul of another ship. 
 Then we got aground opposite Abydos, and remained there two 
 days. We were obliged to stay three days at Constantinople, 
 of which I was very glad, for it enabled me to see the town. 
 Last night, by moonlight, we buried a sailor who died of cholera 
 since we left Constantinople. The ceremony was very simple. 
 My friend read the service ; only a few sailors were present ; 
 the moon was full, and the sea perfectly black, except where 
 the moon was reflected. The corpse slid from the plank, fell 
 with a heavy splash, and the vessel pursued its course as before. 
 None of the passengers were aware of the fact. I have taken 
 every precaution to prevent the cholera from spreading, and the 
 rest of the crew are as yet tolerably healthy. We shall probably 
 arrive at our destination early to-morrow morning, and then I 
 
IN THE CKIMEA. 43 
 
 shall make ray way to Balaklava, where I expect to meet with 
 friends who will entertain me. 
 
 Sept. 1st. I have arrived safely before Sebastopol, and am 
 staying with Harris, 88th regiment, in a bell-tent. There is 
 continual firing of bombs, night and day. 
 
 P.S. No. 2 (Sept. 3d). I have not been able to send my note 
 off yet, so I shall just say a word or two more. I have been 
 fully engaged every day seeing the camp and the battle-fields 
 in the neighbourhood. The Crimea is very healthy at present, 
 but about fifty men are disabled in the trenches daily. I shall 
 tell you all that I have been doing when I arrive at Con- 
 stantinople. 
 
 In the meantime I enclose you a flower from the field of 
 Inkerman. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 Hospital-ship " Orient," 
 Black Sea, September 13, 1855. 
 When I last wrote I promised that I would let you hear from 
 me again when I arrived at Constantinople, but as I have an 
 opportunity now (the sea being very calm) I shall not put off 
 writing longer, but will endeavour to give you a slight account 
 of what I have done and seen in the Crimea. On the 31st of 
 August, about five in the afternoon, I landed at Kamiesh alone, 
 and after a good deal of trouble and walking about in the dark, 
 I found the 88th regiment, and my friend Harris, the surgeon. I 
 walked through the French camp with a vivandiere, who was 
 kind enough to offer her services as a guide. She was very 
 polite and communicative. Every now and then she burst into 
 tears, at the same time telling me that the English and the 
 French in the Crimea were all miserable and dying ; but she 
 very quickly dried her tears, and appeared to derive great con- 
 solation from the thought that the English and French are 
 " Freres." I afterwards found that all the Frenchwoman said 
 was perfectly true ; every one to whom I spoke replied in the 
 same strain. This state of feeling was produced by the trench- 
 work ; not at all by disease, or want of food and clothing, for 
 the Crimea is very healthy at present, and the army is well 
 supplied with all necessaries ; but the English army alone, at 
 the time of which I speak, was losing daily fifty men, killed and 
 wounded. Harris, as I expected, was very glad to see me. My 
 arrival in the dark took him very much by surprise, as you may 
 well imagine ; nevertheless he had no difficulty in accommo- 
 dating me with a bed on the floor of his tent, where, notwith- 
 standing the continual firing of the cannons, I slept as soundly 
 
44 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 as if I had been in my own bed at home. In the morning 
 Harris and I rode back to Kamiesh to look after my friend who 
 came with me from Eenkioi, but we missed each other on the 
 way, for when we returned we found him in the tent. Harris 
 managed to get him a bed in a new hut, and thus we were 
 comfortably settled in the Crimea. The next day my friend 
 (Dix) and I set off on a walking expedition to take a survey of 
 the camp, and get some idea of the position of the different 
 regiments. The complete desolation of the country struck us 
 very forcibly. Nothing but dust and tents in all directions. 
 All the vines have been cut for fire- wood, and the ground so 
 trodden over that nothing will grow. We walked to the top of 
 a hill where we could see down the famous valley to Balaklava 
 in one direction, and also up the valley of the Tchernaia to the 
 mountains in the interior. Even this valley is desolated, though 
 not so much as other parts of the camp. In this direction, as 
 far as the eye could reach, we saw encampments of Sardinians, 
 Turks, and Eussians. One Eussian battery was firing at a group 
 of soldiers in the valley, and we could distinctly see the balls as 
 they fell and dispersed the soldiers. We then walked round 
 the hill and looked into the valley of Inkerman, which is still 
 green and refreshing to look upon. Many poplars and oaks 
 still grow there, and there are a few houses, which give a homely 
 appearance to the valley, although they are deserted, and no 
 doubt much injured by cannon shot. One day Harris and I 
 took a ride to a Eussian monastery on the sea-coast, near to 
 Balaklava. The Eussian monks are allowed by the English to 
 pursue their religious duties unmolested. 
 
 The sea-coast by the monastery is very high, rocky, and 
 extremely picturesque. The monks too have been careful to 
 beautify their home with terrace-gardens reaching to the sea, 
 about 500 feet below them. They have a well of beautiful cold 
 clear water. A French doctor was mixing some nasty stuff that 
 he called " absinthe " with it. It tasted to me very much like 
 compound tincture of camphor, and I preferred drinking the 
 water pure. I got admission into the chapel. There were 
 several Eussian monks walking about. The walls of the 
 chapel are covered with thin golden ornaments and bad 
 pictures of Christs, Virgins and Saints. The monks were 
 continually bowing to each other, and behaved in a manner 
 which appeared to me very absurd. I saw several pretty young 
 ladies ; I was told they were the daughters of a Eussian officer, 
 a prisoner there. During the whole of this day the English and 
 French kept up a very heavy fire on the Malakoff and Eedan, 
 and into the town. In the evening we could see the town well 
 lighted up by a large ship which was burning in the harbour. 
 

 IN THE CRIMEA. 45 
 
 Rockets, shells, and red-hot balls were flying about in all 
 directions, making a deafening noise ; it was a sight well worth 
 beholding. I watched the lire until the powder-magazine blew 
 up, with a tremendous explosion and blaze, and then I went to 
 bed. This firing continued two days. On Friday night we 
 were told that it was the intention of the Generals to storm the 
 Malakoff and Redan at twelve o'clock the next morning. On 
 Saturday morning I went to look for a position where I might 
 see the fight, but I found that the heights were all occupied by 
 Lancers, who were keeping the people back. However, by going 
 round about some distance I managed to elude them, and to 
 get on a hill between them and the Malakoff, where I had a 
 splendid view of all the batteries and trenches. The French 
 began early in the morning to march down to the trenches in 
 thousands. Punctually at twelve the firing commenced, and 
 fortunately for me the wind was strong enough to carry away 
 the smoke quickly. I could distinctly see the French advancing 
 up the Malakoff hill and planting their standard in the middle 
 of the battery. The taking of the Malakoff was effected very 
 easily. The English, I could see, did not get on so well with 
 the Redan. The musketry and cannonading went on for about 
 an hour, until I was tired of hearing it. I knew that some 
 must be suffering fearfully, and thought I might be more useful 
 in the camp than on the top of the hill. What I saw on my 
 way back horrified and disgusted me with war. I met many 
 Russian prisoners, some of whom were wounded severely, and 
 many English and French wounded being carried to the 
 hospitals. When I arrived at the 88th the surgeon was glad 
 to see me, for he had more wounded than he could manage, and 
 his assistants were at the front. I had several operations, such 
 as removing bullets, cutting off fingers, etc. I cut off one arm 
 by the shoulder-joint, which is considered a capital operation in 
 England. Several officers in the regiment afterwards spoke to 
 me and expressed their thanks for the trouble I had taken. 
 The General personally did the same, and also told me that he 
 had taken the liberty of sending in my name to the General of 
 the division (Sir W. Codrington). During the night I heard 
 many explosions, and when I awoke in the morning I was 
 informed that Sebastopol was in the hands of the Allies. I 
 applied for a pass to enter the town, and in consequence of my 
 exertions the day before I had no difficulty in obtaining one. 
 
 On my way to the town I passed through the Redan, and saw 
 the scene of the previous day's havoc. The dead soldiers were 
 getting buried by their comrades in the trench of the Redan. 
 Some of them were mangled terribly, and presented about as 
 horrible a sight as one can well imagine. The interior of the 
 
46 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Eedan is large enough to hold a considerable army, but as far 
 as I could see it is not commanded by any battery, excepting 
 the Malakoff, so that being taken, it must yielcl. The waste of 
 English life on Saturday appears to have been totally useless, as 
 has since been proved by the evacuation of the battery when the 
 troops had ceased to attack it. When I arrived in Sebastopol 
 I found scarcely any English in the town, but many French were 
 hard at work plundering. I think I must have been one of the 
 first fifty English who entered the town. All the houses and 
 public buildings were in a frightful state of dilapidation. The 
 shells had penetrated their walls in every direction, and a large 
 portion of the town was in flames, and every now and then 
 powder-magazines were exploding. I have a young dog with me 
 now, which I took prisoner in Sebastopol. After the taking of 
 Sebastopol I determined to make my way as soon as possible 
 to Constantinople. Consequently on Monday morning I rode 
 off to Balaklava ; slept in one of the old broken-down houses all 
 night. In the morning I bathed in a rough sea, and got dashed 
 against sharp rocks. I then climbed up to the old Genoese 
 castle of which you have heard, saw through all the hospitals, 
 and came on board this ship, which is now getting towed across 
 the Black Sea by the steam-ship " Imperador." The opening of 
 the Bosporus is in sight, and I expect to arrive in Constanti- 
 nople to-morrow morning. As I shall not be able to write to 
 Allie or L. for some time, perhaps you will be so kind as to 
 send them this letter. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, September 29th, 1855. 
 I am at last settled quietly in my 12 ft. by 15, having made 
 it exceedingly comfortable by converting packing-cases into 
 sofas and divans. I quite enjoy having a home of my own 
 after travelling about, sleeping in steamboats and on the floors 
 of bell-tents for so long. Certainly the camp in the Crimea is 
 uncomfortable even in summer. The tents must be frightful 
 in winter. You must not let L. go there, I am sure he 
 could not bear it ; nevertheless my excursion has done me a 
 great deal of good. Every one remarked when I returned that 
 I had grown quite fat, which was true, and I attributed it all 
 to the amount of exercise which I had taken. There is not a 
 soul in the Crimea who does not wish to return. When a man 
 gets wounded they say he is a lucky fellow, for the sick have 
 all that they desire now, and are made extremely comfortable 
 in hospital. Some hospitals are in first-rate order. For instance, 
 in the Castle Hospital at Balaklava, although full of wounded, 
 
CKIMEA AND CONSTANTINOPLE. 47 
 
 the air is as fresh as in your drawing-room, which certainly is 
 not the case with any other hospital I was ever in. There is 
 another good hospital at the Monastery of St. George, and there 
 are hospitals connected with each division, besides separate 
 hospitals for each regiment. The condition of these last depends 
 altogether on the regimental surgeon. Some are well managed ; 
 others are not. When I was in the Crimea I was staying in 
 the camp of the 88th regiment, which was severely engaged in 
 the attack on the Eedan, and I consider myself very fortunate 
 in having had some operations to perform. The General told 
 me that he had taken the liberty of sending in my name to the 
 Brigadier-General, and I am told that I shall probably receive 
 a medal and clasp in consequence. But without that I am 
 quite satisfied, and well pleased to have been present at the 
 taking of Sevastopol (for the town is all on the south side of the 
 harbour) ; on the north there are only one or two batteries, and a 
 few houses, which I think will soon be in the hands of the Allies. 
 We have no patients yet, consequently some of our men, who 
 cannot employ themselves, have volunteered for service in the 
 Crimea. I prefer remaining where I am, as my services are not 
 required there, and because I do not like to do anything that 
 may interfere with the promotion of the assistant surgeons, who 
 have gone through so much hardship. I am very fully employed 
 here, carpentering, fencing, swimming, riding, reading, and 
 studying languages. I see a little practice among the Greeks 
 and sailors. Nevertheless, I should like to do a little more 
 for my pay. On my way down from the Crimea I was 
 obliged to stay for a week in Constantinople, which I was not 
 sorry to do, for to me it is the most interesting city I ever 
 visited. It is capitally situated you know, and from the sea 
 it looks splendid, with all its mosques, minarets, towers, and 
 cypress-trees. But on entering it I was at first disappointed, 
 for the best street is not so broad or so well paved as the Low 
 Street, North Shields, and the smells are powerful : but after a 
 time I got over these annoyances, and then I was highly enter- 
 tained with everything I saw. The inhabitants at present seem 
 chiefly French soldiers and Armenians. The Turks, I should 
 say, form a very small proportion. Besides these, there are 
 Greeks, Persians, Albanians, Arabs, English, Italians, and, I 
 should say, one might find specimens of almost every nation. 
 The best time to walk is early in the morning ; it is then that 
 one can see the Greek and Armenian young ladies going to 
 church, with their prayer-books in hand. They are nearly all 
 pretty until a certain age. The finest collection of girls that I 
 ever saw was in an Armenian church that I entered one morn- 
 ing, the anniversary of the birth of the Virgin Mary. Their 
 
48 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 faces, excepting the eyes, were covered with veils. Fortunately 
 this was sufficiently transparent to allow their beauty to shine 
 through. During my excursion I met old friends wherever I 
 went, and this of course added greatly to my pleasure. I was 
 recognised once by my voice, not by sight. People out here 
 look so different that you may easily pass your most intimate 
 friend without knowing. The other day we had a party in our 
 mess-house, which was decorated for the occasion with flags, 
 myrtle-branches, and armoury. The Pasha and English Consul 
 were present, and a host of young English ladies, English officers, 
 and Bashi-Basouks. The artisans entertained them with racing, 
 singing, and various games. The Bashi-Basouks also showed a 
 little lance-exercise. These Bashi-Basouks are about as fierce- 
 looking a set of men as I ever saw. We sometimes have visits 
 from them which frighten the ladies and some of the doctors. 
 They are continually deserting, and it is feared that they will come 
 here for plunder ; but I think we are far too strong for them. 
 They are extremely passionate and fierce, but they are not 
 sufficiently firm to oppose cool Englishmen. If they come they 
 will try to carry off our nurses. They have expressed a wish 
 to have them for wives. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, October 3d, 1855. 
 Yesterday 215 patients arrived here from the Crimea. They 
 were in their beds one hour and twenty minutes after the arrival 
 of the ship. These are the first patients that we have received, 
 but it is thought that during the winter we shall have plenty 
 to do. The hospital is in splendid order, and is situate in the 
 most healthy neighbourhood, so that I think our patients will 
 very rapidly recover. Of those that have just arrived, I don't 
 expect that more than one or two will die. This morning they 
 look exceedingly comfortable and happy, and seem delighted 
 with their new mode of life. My Bussian dog was pleased to 
 see them ; I think he recognised the red jackets. He is not 
 patriotic enough to hate the enemies of his country. My life 
 here is quite as profitable to me and much pleasanter than it was 
 in London. I have a very comfortable little house (12 ft. by 15), 
 well furnished with books, etc. Looking out from my window 
 I have a fine view of the Hellespont, the JEgean Sea, Samothrace, 
 Tenedos, and many other little islands. I have a horse, a boat, 
 and a Greek servant called Qewhwpus. With all these it would 
 be extraordinary if I could not make myself happy. The 
 climate is splendid ; there has only been two or three days' rain 
 since I came out, and there is always a pleasant breeze from 
 
RENKIOI HOSPITAL. 
 
 the sea. During the hot weather I used to spend a consider- 
 able part of the day in the water, and in consequence I have 
 become a tolerably good swimmer. I would like very much to 
 hear of the welfare of you and your family, if you can find time 
 to write to me. It is a great pleasure to a person so far away 
 to receive letters from home. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 to 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, October 30th, 1855. 
 All your letters have arrived, and have been always received 
 and read with great delight. You can only have some idea of 
 the pleasure of receiving letters from home that have travelled 
 so far. I have nothing new to communicate, excepting Henry's 
 arrival and stay here. He was with me for eight days, during 
 which time we rode, walked, and talked a great deal. He thought 
 that fleas and pains in the bowels were sufficient to make life 
 miserable, and did not envy my life in the least. I saw him on 
 board of the steamboat at Dardanelles. Parting with him had 
 rather the effect of making me home-sick, and I am sorry to say 
 I have scarcely succeeded in recovering myself yet. To-night 
 I am orderly-officer, and have to sit up and look after patients 
 and orderlies all night. There is a hot wind blowing from the 
 south, which has filled the Hellespont with ships and compels 
 me to throw off all but my shirt and trousers. I think it is 
 most likely that I shall spend this winter in the Crimea, or 
 somewhere in the front, but as I am not certain, I prefer 
 acquainting you alone with my intentions, as I know that you 
 are best able to appreciate my reasons. When I am about to 
 set off I shall write and tell mother also. I am fully aware of 
 all the miseries of spending the winter in a bell-tent, but the 
 advantage of seeing service and being of use counterbalances 
 all these. It is not likely that we shall have many patients 
 here for several months, and General Storks has written to ask 
 Dr. Parkes for volunteers. As yet I have heard nothing official, 
 but as soon as I do I intend to offer myself. I am hoping to 
 be sent on some fresh expedition to the Perekop, Circassia, or 
 Nicolaieff. When I hear more I will write again. 
 
 November Qth. 
 
 I have heard nothing more yet about going to the front. It 
 is said that Scutari is to be no longer used as a hospital if 
 so, we shall have plenty to do this autumn. 
 
 You must not believe half what the Times correspondent 
 says about Renkioi. 
 
50 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi, Nov. 7th, 1855. 
 The weather here still continues to be quite warm, which 
 leads one to suppose that the winter here must have a very- 
 short duration. Yesterday was a grand feast-day with the 
 Greeks, called the Feast of Saint Demetri. On this day, every 
 year, compacts, betrothals, and agreements of all sorts are 
 made. The young women and men come out in their best 
 clothes, and have dancing and music all the afternoon. Although 
 they are all, comparatively speaking, poor people, their dresses 
 are of a very costly description. I think many of them must 
 carry their whole wealth about themselves. One young lady 
 had upwards of 100 pieces of gold, about the size of sovereigns, 
 hanging about her. All those who are betrothed may be dis- 
 tinguished by a band of gold pieces surrounding their fore- 
 head. 
 
 P.S. If you have an opportunity, will you send me my Greek 
 Homer ? 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, Nov. 21st, 1855. 
 
 The sick and hospital stores from Smyrna are at present 
 being conveyed to Eenkioi, and I am offered a passage back in 
 the ship which is employed in conveying them. Although the 
 weather is not very favourable, I think I shall take advantage 
 of the offer, for it is uncertain how long it may be before I may 
 again obtain leave. Smyrna and Scutari are both going to be 
 abolished, consequently all the work will fall upon us this 
 winter. I have not heard anything more about volunteering 
 for the front, which makes me fear that I shall not be allowed 
 to go. 
 
 I saw a splendid Greek wedding up at the village on Sunday. 
 I was not present at the beginning of the ceremony. When I 
 arrived at the Ecclesia (church), it was full of people, and smelt 
 strongly of incense. The couple who were getting married were 
 standing in the centre of the church wearing crowns made of 
 tinsel, Vasilicon, pasteboard, etc. Behind them stood the brides- 
 man, who held candles, fixed in two other crowns over their 
 heads. The priest or papa stood in front of them with a great 
 book in his hand, out of which he mumbled something, and 
 occasionally howled, but this latter performance was chiefly 
 done by another man, who kept up a continual howl during the 
 whole ceremony. Nearly the whole congregation, after paying 
 
GREKK MARRIAGE. . 51 
 
 a small sum of money to the priest, went up one by one, the 
 men before the women, and kissed first the top and then the 
 bottom of both of the crowns. The children were lifted up by 
 their mammas to do this. The bridegroom was dressed in a 
 very simple style, but the bride was arrayed in a most gorgeous 
 style, in satin and gold. Her face was covered with the white 
 of egg, and her eyelids bound together with the same. This 
 gave her skin the appearance of wax. Throughout the ceremony 
 her face remained totally expressionless, and her body perfectly 
 still. After the kissing was accomplished, the priest, bride, and 
 bridegroom performed together a very slow dance as they pro- 
 ceeded out of the church. In going home they formed a sort of 
 procession, with the bride at the head and the whole congrega- 
 tion following. Musicians played on fiddles and guitars, and 
 guns were continually being fired in all directions. When they 
 arrived at their house the old father came out to meet them, 
 and made a speech, the purport of which was that he gave the 
 bride two cows and a flock of goats. Somebody else, probably 
 an uncle, shouted out from behind, " Cocks and hens into the 
 bargain !" This was considered very witty, and made them all 
 laugh. I enclose you Vasilicon from the bride's crown. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi, Nov. 25th, 1855. 
 William and I spent a very pleasant week together, riding to 
 the Plains of Troy, and visiting many small Greek and Turkish 
 villages. I have capital opportunities here of observing the 
 manners of the Turks and Greeks. Here they are in a 
 natural state, uncorrupted by contact with Europeans. The 
 race is much purer, and is not, as at Constantinople, mixed with 
 Circassian, Arnaut, and Nubian blood. I have been told that 
 nearly all the persons in high places have been themselves, or 
 are descended from, slaves. There is a Turkish village about 
 two miles from here, high up among the hills, called Cashkioi. 
 It contains a mosque and about forty or fifty houses. The in- 
 habitants are farmers, and lead a very peaceable respectable life. 
 One or two old gentlemen there keep harems, which generally 
 consist of three or four ugly old women, but most of them are the 
 husband of one wife. They are extremely religious and moral, 
 reverencing God and goodness. They never tell lies or cheat ; 
 because their religion does not allow it. Here is certainly a 
 practical result of religion ! They are also extremely hospitable 
 and good-natured ; but the most remarkable thing about them 
 is their innocence and ignorance. They did not know until very 
 
52 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 lately that the Eussians and Turks were at war, and never took 
 the trouble to inquire why this hospital is being built. Most 
 of them are rather good-looking. All have good (rather large) 
 noses, dark eyes, and shaggy eyebrows. However, they are not 
 sufficiently clever to live in this country, and are gradually get- 
 ting turned out by the Greeks. All their former energy and 
 fierceness have been destroyed by the peaceable life they have 
 been leading for so many years, and they are not able to com- 
 pete with others in the arts of peace. 
 
 The cold weather has come at last, and I am happy to say I 
 am well fortified against it ; with a nice stove in my room. In 
 the middle of the day, if we see the sun it is still very powerful. 
 
 P.S. All the patients from Smyrna and Scutari are coming 
 here. We shall have plenty to do this winter. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, Dec. 13th, 1855. 
 
 I have just received a letter from L., in which he says that 
 you are now at Derwent Bank, and intend to be there dur- 
 ing Christmas. I am writing this letter with the hope that you 
 may receive it about that time, and read it with L., Allie, 
 and William round your Christmas fire. 
 
 I have not heard from William since he left Smyrna, but I 
 conclude you have heard from him, for L. tells me that he expects 
 to see him at Christmas. When I was at Smyrna a little 
 French girl, who seemed rather to have taken a fancy to him, 
 talked of him to me, and told me that he had enjoyed himself 
 there, and had left in good health. It is rather curious that 
 when she first saw me she ran and told her mother that William 
 had come back again. The resemblance between us had struck 
 her so much ! The weather here still continues remarkably 
 fine. I still feel it quite hot when I go out of doors, with 
 nothing but my nightshirt, and fence, which I do for a quarter 
 of an hour every morning directly I get out of bed. I still 
 bathe occasionally, when it is not windy. A great many ships 
 have been brought ashore here lately by a south wind. The 
 hospital lights are partly the cause of this, for the captains, in 
 the night, mistake them for ships, and, expecting to get good 
 anchorage, sail right on to the shore. A few days ago I had a 
 delightful ride with my servant along the shores of the Helles- 
 pont. I take him with me to interpret Turkish. He knows 
 no English, but I now know enough Greek to ask for anything 
 I want, and am able to hold an imperfect sort of conversation. 
 Every yard of the road appeared to me to have been covered 
 
CHRISTMAS FETES. 53 
 
 with buildings at one time. The ploughed fields were covered 
 with pieces of tile and marble, and every now and then we 
 came across excavations, walls, and ditches. At one place on the 
 top of a little hill, near the mouth of the Hellespont, there are 
 some remains of an old castle with an underground passage 
 which goes about fifteen feet into the ground. The people here 
 do nothing in the way of excavation the Turks because they 
 do not think it worth while, and the Greeks because they are 
 frightened. The Greeks here are extremely superstitious. 
 They firmly believe in ghosts, vampires, and in the churches 
 they have crying pictures, and the same superstitions as the 
 Eomish Church. Last Sunday I was shown by the papa, a 
 crying picture of St. George. The papa told me that if I were 
 a good man and held a piastre against the picture it would 
 be held there by St. George. The piastre was held by some 
 gum which the papa, I suppose, had placed there. The people 
 must be very foolish not to understand this simple device of 
 the papa's. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, Bee. 28th, 1855. 
 
 Christmas-day has passed very quietly with us. We invited 
 the lady nurses and military men to dine with us, and in the 
 evening we had a little singing and dancing and music. Last 
 night the orderlies, artisans, and nurses had a ball in one of the 
 wards. It was extremely amusing, as you may well imagine, to 
 see some of our old fat nurses dancing the polka. In a few 
 days we are going to have a very grand ball in our mess-room, to 
 which a large number of Greek girls, and the English young 
 ladies in the neighbourhood, are invited. The Pasha's band is 
 coming from Dardanelles, and the ladies of the camp who have 
 organs and pianos have sent them to us for the evening. 
 
 The married medical men are also giving private tea-parties 
 as in England. 
 
 The hospital goes on rapidly increasing, and also the number 
 of people connected with it, such as purveyors, paymasters, 
 interpreters, etc., so that we now form quite a little town. Two 
 children have been born here within the last two months. 
 They have both been called Ida, from Mount Ida, which stands 
 just behind the Plains of Troy. 
 
 to his brother. 
 
 January 10th, 1856. 
 We had a grand ball in the mess-room the other day. There 
 rere about five Greek girls there, some of whom could speak 
 
54 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 nothing but Greek. I danced with them the whole night. 
 One of these girls had an extremely beautiful face and innocent 
 manners. She had all the beautiful characteristics of a Greek 
 face, and at the same time a very charming expression. She 
 was evidently not much accustomed to ball-rooms, for she 
 always kept my hand in hers when we danced quadrilles. 
 When any one asked her to dance she asked my leave. She 
 lives at Dardanelles, but I have not seen her since the ball. 
 There is only one other girl that I am at all pleased with, that 
 is Theodore's sister " Ellenika " I progress tolerably fast with 
 my Greek, and as I am the only one here who knows any 
 Greek, I have all the medical practice of the village, and have 
 ample opportunity of studying the manners and customs of the 
 natives. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, Feb. 8th, 1856. 
 
 The hospital goes on enlarging, but I do not expect it will be 
 finished for many months yet. Now there are upwards of one 
 hundred and fifty buildings on the ground. Nearly thirty of 
 these are hospitals, each containing fifty beds. Yesterday I 
 superintended the landing of about ninety sick from Balaklava. 
 About twenty of these were in a very bad state, the others could 
 walk. The Land Transport Corps seems to suffer more than any 
 other regiment. We have now a railway by which patients can 
 be carried from the pier to the hospitals in about two minutes. 
 The distance is a little more than a mile. A few days ago I 
 took an excursion with a friend. We were three days away, 
 and travelled south over the Plains of Troy so far as to be 
 opposite the island of Mitylene. Everywhere we were received 
 in a most hospitable manner by the Turks, Greeks, and 
 Armenians. We saw all the ruins of Alexandria and Troas. 
 The ruins appeared to be all Roman. I only saw one inscrip- 
 tion, which was Latin. At all the villages directly it was known 
 that there was a Hakim (doctor) present, the sick were brought 
 round about me, and I prescribed and gave medicines. The river 
 Scamander became very much swollen. In going we were able 
 to ford it, but in coming back we were obliged to go round some 
 distance to find a bridge. Some of the Land Transport Corps 
 were drowned the other day in trying to ford the river with 
 their horses. We hear that there are strong expectations of 
 peace. If these be verified, you may expect to see me back in 
 England soon. 
 
GREEK PEASANTRY. 55 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Kenkioi Hospital, March 6th, 1856. 
 
 I continue to live much in the same way as when I first 
 arrived, excepting that I now have much more intercourse with 
 the natives, and associate with them in a more friendly manner. 
 I have a very large practice, among the Greeks especially, but 
 I have also Turkish, Armenian, and Jewish patients. The other 
 day I astonished and delighted some people at Dardanelles 
 by cutting a squint. The boy, who was a Jew, directly he saw 
 himself in the glass, expressed great satisfaction in word and 
 gesture. 
 
 The country is extremely beautiful here now, and the weather 
 is cold enough to allow me to take long walks and rides. The 
 hills and ravines are covered with flowers of the gayest and 
 most brilliant colours. I enclose some violets for Allie from 
 the shores of the Hellespont. I am afraid I shall feel very 
 unwilling to leave this beautiful country, and when I get home 
 I shall long to return. If it were not for my friends I should 
 stay here for ever. At times, however, I feel a very great 
 longing to see you all again, and have very much the same 
 sensations which less fortunate exiles (I imagine) experience. 
 Although the Greeks out here are a very happy good-natured 
 people, I should scarcely like to have them for constant and 
 sole companions. They live much like the lower animals, and 
 seem to have little idea of right and wrong. They just do what 
 their inclinations prompt them to do, and yet they are much 
 happier than English peasants. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Eenkioi Hospital, March 6th, 1856. 
 If a treaty be concluded I think that my agreement with the 
 Government will end very speedily, and I shall either come 
 home or stay out here and buy land, for I hear that a law is 
 passed which allows foreigners to buy land in Turkey. This 
 country suits me so well, and is so very splendid in many 
 respects, that I feel extremely unwilling to leave it. I have 
 now got a tolerable knowledge of Greek, and am learning 
 Turkish, so that I am almost prepared to settle if my friends 
 have no very serious objection. The climate is extremely 
 healthy. There has scarcely been any illness amongst us. 
 I myself have never been ill at all. I know the people of the 
 country now much better than when you were there. I often 
 have long talks with the women, and am frequently entertained 
 at their houses. The girls are not so shy as they were ; they 
 
56 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 even joke and play with me occasionally. I sometimes dance 
 Greek dances or the polka with them. The night before last 
 I was at a party at one of their houses and saw a splendid 
 sight. As there were several other parties in the village we 
 could not get music, therefore five beautiful girls, dressed very 
 gaily with Turkish trousers fitting close over the ankles, got up 
 and danced vigorously to the music which they made by singing 
 Greek airs and Turkish songs. I was reminded of some pictures 
 of old bacchanalian processions these girls display such grace 
 in all their movements. It is scarcely equalled by the belles 
 of London ball-rooms. These have, naturally, what our English 
 ladies devote so much effort to acquire. I take long walks and 
 rides now every day, climbing up to the top of the hills. I have 
 most magnificent views westward, of the iEgean Sea with its 
 many islands, Tenedos, Mavri, Lemnos, Samothrace, and beyond 
 this on a clear day I can see others far away. Mount Athos by 
 sunset appears very grand, towering up into the sky. It is 
 called here 'Ayioi, or the Holy Mountain. They think it is 
 called so because the papas all come from thence. Looking to 
 the east I can see Mount Olympus covered with snow, and to 
 the south, as you know, Mount Ida. All the ravines are full of 
 crocuses, anemones of splendid colours, and violets. The wheat 
 and barley are quite short as yet, but in another week I expect 
 the country will be of a bright green colour. I was shocked to 
 hear of the dreadful danger that mother and Isabella have gone 
 through, 1 and I felt extremely glad that they escaped serious 
 injury. Give my love to them and my hearty congratulations. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Abydos, March 20th, 1856. 
 I have left Eenkioi, and am now appointed medical officer 
 to the Abydos Convalescent Hospital. Yesterday, I, my horse 
 and dog, started early in the morning, and arrived here about 
 two p.m. The wind was blowing furiously in our faces, and filling 
 our eyes with snow and sleet. The distance of this place from 
 Eenkioi is sixteen miles, about one hour and a half. I 
 have tolerably comfortable quarters, but frightfully lonely. 
 The house I live in is quite solitary, and stands close by the 
 seaside : there is a small steep hill just behind (Xerxes Hill), 
 from which Xerxes is said to have surveyed his army crossing 
 the Hellespont. About 200 yards at one side (at the north) 
 there is a French hospital and a Turkish fort, and about as 
 
 1 A chimney, built of freestone, had fallen, during a high wind, through 
 the roof, upon the bed on which my mother and sister were sleeping. 
 
ABYDOS. 57 
 
 much to the south is my hospital, and barracks for 500 men. 
 The house is badly built, and lets wind in in every direction, 
 which at present is by no means agreeable, but which in 
 summer will be very pleasant. To-day I have been at Darda- 
 nelles buying cooking apparatus and table furniture, and in a 
 day or two a Greek woman is coming to make divans, cushions, 
 etc. When all this is accomplished I hope to be tolerably 
 comfortable. There are seven rooms in the house, two of 
 which I shall occupy, and two are occupied by a captain, the 
 commandant. All the rest are empty at present. There are 
 only three officers here : this captain, a clergyman who lives 
 at the hospital, and myself. The Hellespont is very narrow 
 here, and as the ships have to pass quite close, it has a much 
 livelier appearance than at Eenkioi. I think I am more lonely 
 now than I ever was before, but I am sure almost to be happy, 
 for I have lots of books, and the view from my window is 
 extremely beautiful. 
 
 P.S. I have bought you a Persian Cashmere shawl, but I 
 don't see how I can get it sent to you. I wanted you to get it 
 on the 4th of April, 1 but I am afraid that is impossible. Many 
 happy returns. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Abydos Hospital, March 26th, 1856. 
 
 You will have heard from mother by this time that I have 
 left Eenkioi and come to this delightful place. I have every- 
 thing that I can desire now excepting a woman to keep house 
 for me. If you were here we should live in a most delightful 
 manner, but I am afraid that you could scarcely endure to have 
 a soldier for your servant, to cook and do everything for you. 
 I am at present furnishing my room with a sofa or divans. A 
 Greek woman is sitting sewing behind me, and talking to me 
 both in Turkish and Greek. I am obliged to have her husband 
 in the room, because the people in this country are so modest 
 or jealous. 
 
 I am just now looking after the sick of the Land Transport 
 Corps at Dardanelles, because the doctor appointed to that 
 Corps has taken fever. I think no doctor ever had a more ex- 
 traordinary set of patients than I have. There is a specimen 
 of almost every nation in my hospital. I always give my 
 directions in Greek. In requital for my services I can get 
 Arabian horses and Arabs lent to me whenever I like, which at 
 present I find very convenient, for my own horse is ill. There 
 
 1 Her birthday. 
 
58 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 are a great number of very fine mules just now in the stables. 
 Some of them are seventeen hands high, and enormously strong. 
 The weather has been very cold and disagreeable here for the 
 last month, and we have had more cold weather in March than 
 in all the rest of the year. I hope we shall have fine weather 
 now, for my sitting-room has five windows which let in air in 
 all directions. The house is full of rats, mice, and owls, which 
 at night are very amusing. At present I am happy to say there 
 are no fleas or flies. This is just about the place where Leander 
 and Lord Byron swam across the Hellespont. On a hot day I 
 think it would not be difficult, although it is said the water runs 
 very rapidly in the middle. There are no remains of the ancient 
 town excepting broken pots and vases. Excavations would pro- 
 bably show something, but no one here is sufficiently interested 
 to make them. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Abydos, April 19th, 1 1856. 
 I received letters from you and William yesterday, a day 
 sooner than you expected, but not at all too soon for me. Now 
 that I am so solitary and so far from home, I am constantly 
 anxiously expecting letters. Sometimes I have friends from 
 Eenkioi who stay a day or two with me, for it is too far to go 
 and return in one day. Yesterday two doctors were here, and 
 we crossed over to Europe in a caique to a Greek village or 
 town with 5000 inhabitants. It is the site of the ancient town 
 (Madytus), which at one time was rather famous. There are no 
 ruins or remains of any sort to be seen now. The Turks have 
 converted all the marble columns into shot for their cannon. 
 
 TO MR. POW. 
 
 Abydos, April 23d, 1856. 
 In your letter you said that you had been reading Homer, 
 and you appeared to take some interest in the Plains of Troy, 
 and in this country generally. I have now often ridden over 
 the Plains, and am as well acquainted with them as I am with 
 the vale of Keswick, nevertheless I have not succeeded in dis- 
 covering any trace of the ancient city. There are several heaps 
 of stones which are supposed to be tombs, and have received 
 the names of some of the Homeric heroes, but nobody knows 
 anything about them. A little nearer the sea than the sup- 
 
 1 He was twenty -three on that day. 
 
SITE OF TROY. 59 
 
 posed site of Troy there are some carved stones and broken 
 columns, and this is called the site of New Ilium, a town said 
 to have been built by the Emperor Hadrian. It is astonishing 
 how traces of those large cities should be so completely effaced. 
 I believe that the stones of most of the temples and palaces have 
 been converted by the Turks into cannon balls, and fired into 
 the Hellespont. There is another place here which has the 
 name of Troy, or Alexandria, whicht I have visited. It was 
 formerly (in the time of St. Paul) a flourishing city ; I think it 
 was there that Eutychus fell asleep and the apostle left his 
 cloak ; it is distant about a day's journey from Eenkioi. There 
 are abundant remains of a very large city, in the shape of walls, 
 arches, columns, and stones, and an artificial port, which at the 
 time was probably furnished with piers. The land is extremely 
 fertile in the neighbourhood, and the soil very deep, but the 
 cultivation is sadly neglected ; oak grows in great abundance, 
 luxuriantly, and the cups are sent to England, but this is the 
 only export. It is first-rate for colonists, far superior to America 
 or Australia I should think, for it is only ten days' journey from 
 England, and the land could be bought for almost nothing. The 
 Turks leave this country in a neglected state ; they care little 
 about money, and are quite content if they can get enough to 
 eat and smoke, and this they can do with scarcely any trouble. 
 Their agricultural instruments are of the rudest description ; 
 the ploughs are made of wood, and they seldom plough more 
 than three inches deep ; harrowing and draining are almost un- 
 known among them ; nevertheless they are as a rule a good- 
 natured, hospitable people. At first I was disposed to consider 
 the Greeks a superior race, but now from abundant experience 
 I think otherwise. They are larger than the Turks, much 
 cleverer, and their cleverness is generally used for a bad purpose, 
 such as cheating and telling lies. They seem to find a sort of 
 pleasure in telling lies, even without a purpose, and show no 
 shame on detection. The Armenians and Jews are the only 
 industrious people here, but they have nothing to do with the 
 soil, and only employ themselves with merchandise. I am 
 thinking of buying some land here as a speculation, because I 
 think the new laws of Turkey will insure a large immigration 
 of Europeans, and consequently the price of land will rise 
 immensely. I have now a great deal to do, and have a con- 
 siderable amount of surgical practice with the Land Transport 
 Corps; for this I receive 15s. per day in addition to my 25s., 
 which I consider pretty fair pay for a surgeon of my age. 
 
60 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO Mil. POW. 
 
 Abydos, May 7th, 1856. 
 I have not quite made up my mind about settling in this 
 country, and in doing anything in the matter I should like to 
 know whether mother and my other friends have any great 
 objection to the project. But I am seriously thinking of 
 investing a little money in land here, so that at any future time, 
 if we like, we may have an opportunity of settling. The most 
 certain way of making it profitable would be for about half-a- 
 dozen to form a colony, and to bring wives out. Several of the 
 Eenkioi doctors are half-inclined to do something of this sort, 
 but most of them talk of waiting a year or two. I wish you 
 would write and tell me mother's sentiments on the subject. 
 We had a grand review of the Land Transport Corps yesterday, 
 at which, of course, as medical officer, I was present. The 
 review took place on a flat piece of ground half way between 
 Eenkioi and Dardanelles. I had the pleasure of meeting there 
 a great many of my friends from Eenkioi, who had come to 
 witness the sight. We left Dardanelles about half-past eight 
 in the morning, forming a long procession, consisting of about 
 3000 animals and 1500 men, chiefly Arabs. I rode along with 
 the superintendent and one or two ladies at the head of the 
 procession. In front and about us, ten or twelve Arabs were 
 galloping round and round, waving their lances and swords, and 
 firing off guns, reminding me of the pictures of the Sikhs 
 during the war in Afghanistan. When we arrived at the 
 revie wing-ground we were joined by a great number of ladies 
 from Dardanelles, who had come in boats and carts. Three of 
 these young ladies are as delightful girls as you would wish to 
 meet. I find it quite a treat to be able to talk to English girls 
 once more. We had a most glorious day for our review, and 
 the land, sea, and sky were most brilliant. The fields were 
 covered with splendid flowers of all sorts, such as grow only in 
 gardens in England. A tent was pitched, and we had luncheon. 
 Afterwards there were races, in which Dix distinguished him- 
 self. Towards evening a party went to dig on the site of old 
 Dardanelles. With little trouble they succeeded in finding 
 two large vases containing a great variety of ornamental pottery. 
 I terminated my day's amusement by dining on board of the 
 " Oberon," a small war steamboat stationed here. I shall probably 
 remain attached to the Land Transport Corps for two months 
 longer. I feel a great desire to see you all once more. 
 
TORTOISES. 61 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Abydos, May 10th, 1856. 
 I wish you would consider all the letters you write worth 
 sending ; the mere sight of your handwriting gives me pleasure, 
 and the commonest details of your doings at Derwent Bank 
 are interesting to me. You are surprised I should feel lonely 
 here, and ask where the other officers are. We never have any 
 officers for patients here ; and on the staff, besides myself, 
 there are only two, the Commandant (Captain La Touche) and a 
 clergyman. Of course we three are on a very familiar friendly 
 footing. But the clergyman lives at the barracks, and the 
 captain is seldom at home. However, I have a great number 
 of friends at Dardanelles, and as I have plenty to do I pass 
 my time tolerably comfortably. For the last month the 
 country has been most beautiful, and the weather clelightful. 
 I ride about a good deal, and enjoy it exceedingly. The sun is 
 beginning to be very powerful now, and is drying up the grass 
 and flowers, and the snakes and lizards are beginning to glide 
 about. There are lots of tortoises, varying from the size of a 
 penny to a foot in diameter, crawling about everywhere. The 
 Trench cook and eat them, and they are not bad. I tasted 
 some the other day. They were also cooking snakes, but I was 
 not tempted to taste. Some of the snakes are horrible-looking 
 reptiles six feet long. The tortoises are very amusing animals ; 
 the doctors at Eenkioi make pets of them, and put their seals 
 and crests on the shell of the back. A tortoise so marked was 
 found one day four miles from the hospital at the top of a high 
 hill. I am always reminded of the old fable when I see them 
 persevering along in their deliberate sedate manner, and every 
 now and then drawing in their heads, and hiding themselves 
 in their shell at the least appearance of danger. This is the 
 month Bamayan. The Turks neither eat nor drink nor smoke 
 all day, but at sunset cannons are fired off at all the forts along 
 the Hellespont, the mosques are lighted up, and the people com- 
 mence to enjoy themselves. I was amused the other day at 
 an Arab refusing to take a dose of castor-oil on account of 
 Bamayan. I am He'kim Bashi, or doctor, to about 1000 Arabs. 
 They are the honestest and most faithful set of men in this 
 country. A certain portion, a small number, of them are Chris- 
 tians, but I am sorry to say that they are vastly inferior to the 
 followers of Mohammed. Like other professed Christians in 
 this part of the world, they are always lying, stealing, gambling, 
 drinking, and fighting. 
 
62 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 We have partings here every day; the Englishmen and 
 Frenchmen are going away by twos and threes. The French- 
 men have all gone, and there are now only a few Englishmen 
 connected with the Land Transport Corps, and some doctors at 
 Eenkioi. I went down to Eenkioi yesterday, and saw Dr. and 
 Mrs. Goodeve, Mr. and Mrs. Spencer, and Miss Ida Wells off. 
 There are now only eight doctors remaining, and those, as well 
 as Dr. Parkes himself, will probably be off in another week or 
 fortnight. The hospital has quite a desolate appearance now, 
 and it quite makes me melancholy to visit it. I am to be left 
 out here longest of all the doctors, and am appointed to take 
 charge of the artisans at Eenkioi, as well as of Abydos and 
 Dardanelles. I shall sleep a night at each place by turns. 
 There are still a thousand animals in the stables, and I think 
 it will be another month before they are all sold. I went on 
 an expedition for the purpose of selling mules in the interior 
 about a month ago, and lived in the open air for about ten 
 days. As I had plenty of servants and horses I was exceedingly 
 comfortable, and enjoyed myself very much. We passed through 
 a most beautiful country, watered by the river Granicus, which 
 was so famous in the time of Alexander. The country-people 
 are nearly all Turks, and extremely hospitable and good-natured. 
 They were particularly courteous to me on account of my pro- 
 fession, and in return I did all for the sick that I could. It 
 was amusing to watch their astonishment when I perform 
 operations. Squint-cutting called forth many maashallahs and 
 gestures of astonishment. I was taken into many harems to 
 see the Turkish ladies and prescribe for them. Many of them 
 are very pretty, and all of them have gentle lady-like manners. 
 The Pasha of a large town in the interior has sent me a deerskin 
 as a present since I came home, and at the same time told me 
 that I have saved the life of his wife. 
 
PARIS. 
 
 63 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LETTERS FROM PARIS, STRASBURG, VIENNA, ETC. 
 
 " Yearning for the large excitement that the coming years would yield." 
 
 Locksley Hall. 
 
 On leaving Constantinople James took the charge of 300 
 Spanish muleteers bound for Gibraltar. They were a desperate 
 set of fellows, of whom the captain and every one on board the 
 transport ship were afraid. James kept them in good order 
 during the voyage; at its commencement requiring them to 
 give up their arms, knives, and money, in order to prevent 
 gambling, and consequently quarrelling and fighting. Shortly 
 after his return from the East, James went to Paris to study 
 medicine. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Paris, iWw. 17th, 1856. 
 Paris suits me very well, but as yet I have not seen very 
 much of it, excepting the Latin quarter, which is called "le 
 plus vilain." I have not spoken with a single Englishman 
 since I arrived here, and my whole time is spent in attending 
 the hospitals, and in talking with the students in their cafe's. 
 I am getting well acquainted with their life, and at the same 
 time learning French very quickly. The grisettes against 
 whom you think fit to caution me make themselves apparent 
 everywhere, are amusing in the extreme, and at the same time 
 are perfectly well-behaved, as far as one can see. They are 
 very polite, and seem to take a pleasure in instructing strangers. 
 I have made the acquaintance of a Professor of Greek in one of 
 the colleges, and nearly every evening I go to his house and 
 talk to him and his wife, and play with their children. I write 
 exercises in French for him to correct, and in return I give him 
 some instruction in English. After some time, when I can 
 speak French well, and the weather is finer, I intend to explore 
 the other quarters of Paris, and then I shall tell you all about 
 them. Perhaps you will come here, and then we shall explore 
 together. How different Paris is from London ! there, after I 
 
64 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 had been a student for half-a-year, I scarcely knew any one to 
 speak to, but here in a few days I know half-a-dozen without 
 having used an introduction. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Paris {no date). 
 I went this morning to see the interment of the Archbishop 
 of Paris at eight o'clock. His assassination has caused a great 
 deal of excitement here ; every one is talking about it, and this 
 morning there were crowds gathered together to the funeral. 
 Notre Dame was filled with soldiers and priests. I am told 
 that there were about 2000 priests present. There were several 
 Capuchins walking in the cold melting snow, with bare feet 
 and hair-cloth shirts. It is said that he was not assassinated 
 for political reasons. I am working in my usual way. Every 
 morning I go to the hospitals till breakfast-time, and in the 
 evening I attend lectures on different medical subjects. In the 
 middle of the day I am reading at home. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Paris, Feby. bth, 1857. 
 The fine spring weather which has just commenced to-day, 
 and which I hope will now continue, makes me think of Der- 
 went Bank. I have a very vivid recollection of it as it was three 
 years ago in spring. I remember how green it looked when 
 the snow had just melted off it, the larch with its little red 
 flowers, and all the other trees with their large juicy buds 
 waiting to burst into leaf. Yesterday whilst walking in the 
 Luxembourg Gardens I examined for a long time the little hazel 
 buds with the bright red tops which used to interest us years 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Feby. 9th, 1857. 
 
 Every day with me is alike spent in the hospital lecture- 
 room, cafes, and my own chambers. As you have imagined, 
 I study wood-fires carefully, and spend hours in vainly attempt- 
 ing to warm my little room, the tiled floor of which always 
 remains so cold that I am afraid to touch it with my feet, and 
 invent all kinds of stratagems to avoid contact with the floor 
 in passing from one room to another. 
 
 P.S. The other night I was at a bal masque* at the opera- 
 house. The house was crowded with people in the most varied, 
 extraordinary, and elegant costumes ; the music was very good, 
 
 
FRENCH SURGEONS. 65 
 
 and the dancing excellent. The general effect was exceedingly 
 curions and beautiful. I thought at the time how you would 
 have enjoyed being there, and wished to have you with me. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Paris, March 27th, 1857. 
 
 I WAS just going to write to you when your letter arrived. 
 Certainly that touch of Thackeray's to which you refer 1 is very 
 beautiful, but at the same time I do not feel that it is applicable 
 to us, for I feel certain that when we meet again you will find 
 that the same sympathy which has always existed between you 
 and me still exists, and that we shall together take pleasure and 
 interest in the same subjects. The scarcity of letters passing 
 between us is due to another cause. ... I have now heard all 
 the distinguished doctors of Paris, and seen them operate, and 
 I would like exceedingly to give you a good description of them, 
 but I am not sufficiently clever with my pen. Every morning 
 now I go to the Hotel Dieu. The surgeon there is Jobert, who 
 plays very much the same sort of role here that Fergusson does 
 in London. He is about the average height of Frenchmen, 
 holds himself erect and firmly, with his head back. His hair 
 is dark, eyebrows bushy, and eyes keen. His nose is largish 
 and aquiline, and all his features well marked. When he lectures 
 he wears a sort of embroidered cap (he is slightly bald). There 
 is an air of confidence and decision in all he does and says, but 
 his language is neither good nor clear, and his voice is husky. 
 He is fond of joking, and looks for applause. His manner of 
 operating is first-rate, although ostentatious. If anything he 
 wishes is not done the noise and disturbance he makes is terrific, 
 and all his satellites, externes, internes, sceurs, etc., are thrown 
 into a hopeless state of confusion and alarm. 
 
 Nelaton,the surgeon at Paris who pleases me most, is altogether 
 the opposite of Jobert. He is excessively timid and bashful, 
 an extraordinary quality in a surgeon. His operations are 
 performed quietly, but at the same time with decision, and 
 perfectly. When he lectures there is no attempt at oratorical 
 display, but there is an earnestness of manner which captivates 
 the attention. His language is beautiful, and his delivery 
 without the slightest hesitation. One always knows when he 
 is about to make a joke by a slight blush coming over his brow. 
 He illustrates his lectures with many anecdotes, and these are 
 told in a most delightful manner. The other day he operated 
 
 1 The Newcomes. The old Colonel finds that he is not fitted to take a 
 place amongst his son's companions, and therefore withdraws. 
 
 E 
 
66 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 for cataract. The assistant let the eyelid fall after the knife 
 had been introduced, and thereby caused the discontinuance of 
 the operation. Nelaton did not lose his temper, as almost every 
 one else might. Jobert, for example, would have turned the 
 whole amphitheatre upside down. He appears to study science 
 in a most disinterested manner, speaks against no one, and of 
 his own discourses most modestly. He is not like Malgaigne, 
 who attacks tout le monde, as a Frenchman told me the other 
 day. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 March 30th, 1857. 
 I AM coming to England in the month of May. I know this 
 will be pleasant news, therefore I put it first. It is for my 
 Easter holidays, and if you like we will spend them at Keswick 
 together. Do you remember this time three years ago what a 
 pleasant fortnight we spent together at Matlock? how we 
 botanised in the woods, examining the wild hyacinth and arum, 
 and the garlic, the juice of which had such a nasty smell? 
 And then the caves of Castleton, Chatsworth Castle, Haddon 
 Hall, and the girl who reproved me so severely ? I thought of 
 all this, and of you, the other day, when I was taking a country 
 walk here: the trees were just in about the same stage of 
 advancement, the weather was delightful, and the birds, and 
 everybody else, were showing their joy at the approach of 
 summer. This letter, I expect, will arrive about the 4th of 
 April, the sixty-sixth anniversary of your birthday (I have 
 made your calculation). No one can wish you more sincerely 
 many happy returns of that day than your affectionate son. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Paris, Wednesday, May 1857. 
 My time in London was short. On Monday morning I was 
 up at four o'clock ; had a delightful ride through Kent and 
 Sussex. Everything was fresh, green, rich, and beautiful, from 
 the rain which had fallen the day before. I sat in a first-class 
 carriage, with the windows open, enjoying the fresh air and the 
 green fields. At the same time I was doing what the Turks call 
 enjoying kef, i.e. intellectual repose, for I was taking a final fare- 
 well to tobacco, and having my Carnival before my Lent of 
 abstinence from smoking. Mother will be pleased to hear that it 
 is now Lent with me. . . . The scenery between Dieppe and 
 Rouen is very beautiful, and reminds one much of that on the 
 other side of the Channel. The coast has exactly the same 
 character, and one would think that the two countries had just 
 
ROUEN. 67 
 
 been pulled asunder to allow the sea to run between. On this 
 side, the valleys are more clearly defined. In every one of 
 them there is a town, and in many of these towns there are 
 large cotton-manufactories with high chimneys which do not 
 appear to smoke. These manufactories are not at all unpleasant 
 objects to look at. They appear clean, with their curtained 
 windows, and have not the slightest resemblance to those im- 
 mense square dirty dismal blocks at Manchester. Some of 
 them appear quite grand, standing in the centre of a large ver- 
 dant valley, and surrounded by tall poplar- trees, which are always 
 a beautiful feature in the valleys on this side. We reached 
 Eouen at seven o'clock, went and saw the Cathedral, and as 
 much of the town as we could in two hours. The Cathedral is 
 magnificent, but I won't say anything now about it. There is 
 another little old Gothic church we entered. It was full of 
 people chiefly women and girls with nice faces, some wearing 
 Norman caps, and others coloured handkerchiefs twisted about 
 their heads. A company of girls were singing the most beau- 
 tiful church-music that I ever heard in my life ; the church was 
 illuminated, and the general effect was charming. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 July 12th, 1857. 
 This morning I have been to see a new hospital (La Kiboi- 
 riere) in the environs of Paris. The arrangement of the wards 
 and ventilation is perfect, and the whole plan of the hospital 
 pleased me exceedingly. In the centre there is a garden, 
 fountains, etc., and everywhere a great deal of taste is displayed. 
 It is a pity that this is not thought of in England, for I am con- 
 vinced that the sight of beautiful objects, such as gardens, 
 flowers, etc., has a most powerful effect in expediting the 
 recovery of the patient. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Paris, July 19th, 1857. 
 . . . Beranger died two or three days ago, and all Paris was at 
 the funeral. Bills, notices of his death, were at all the corners 
 of the streets, " Itfranger vient de mourir." The Government 
 feared that his funeral would be the signal for revolt, and con- 
 sequently the streets and boulevards were filled with soldiers. 
 The crowd was numerous, but there was no symptom of riot. 
 The day before his death, the street was full of workmen 
 anxiously waiting to hear the news. He appears to have been 
 universally beloved. I went to Pere la Chaise, but the crowd was 
 
68 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 so great that I could not see the cortege. A great number of men, 
 especially the workmen, wore immortelles at their button-holes. 
 
 TO A. 
 
 Paris, August 12th, 1857. 
 There will be a national fete on Saturday, and the whole 
 city will be illuminated. The French people are very quiet, 
 and likely to remain so for some time. The newspapers con- 
 tain scarcely anything but English news, and the leading articles 
 are composed of ill-natured remarks and predictions of the 
 downfall of England. One or two, the Steele for example, speak 
 in a more sympathising and friendly manner of our misfortunes 
 in India. The journals here must not for a moment be con- 
 sidered as representing the sentiments of the French nation. 
 They are all the organs of parties, and, like barristers, view 
 matters only from the side that suits them. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 "Paris, Sept. 6th, 1857. 
 Allie is coming to Paris in a few days. I am working hard, 
 and consider it of great importance that I should succeed in 
 November, because if I do not, a whole year will be lost. There 
 is no making sure ; slight illness or a little stupidity at the time 
 of examination may make all the difference. I hope for the best, 
 and I am old enough now not to be too much depressed by 
 misfortune. I know I have your best wishes, and I think they 
 ought to be of some avail. 
 
 We had a pleasant fortnight together in Paris that September. 
 I and the young friends who had accompanied me thither 
 lodged in the Hotel des Tuileries in the picturesque Eue St. 
 Honore\ We led a charming Arcadian sort of life, breakfasting 
 often in the sunny Cafe du Pont Neuf on the banks of the Seine, 
 and dining usually at Janodet's in the Palais-Eoyal. James 
 came to us every morning, and with him for our guide we 
 would wander through the fair and splendid city. He was our 
 preux chevalier, smoothing all difficulties, full of kind con- 
 sideration for each of us, pointing out and explaining all that 
 was interesting and famous in his usual gentle, simple, courteous 
 manner. 
 
 One of our party, who had a highly cultivated mind, took 
 excursions in the neighbourhood of Paris with my brother and 
 me. We went to St. Cloud, Versailles, St. Denis, Fontainebleau. 
 At the latter place, after seeing the chateau, we had a romantic 
 
PARIS TO STRASBOURG. 69 
 
 drive through the forest. It was the time of the vendange, and 
 has left sweet memories. My two gifted companions were 
 buoyant with youth and hope and gladness, and in converse 
 animated each other with the bright thoughts and fancies which 
 the sight of these historic scenes awoke in their imaginations. 
 James returned with us to London, and passed the M.B. ex- 
 amination in November. 
 
 to his sister. 
 
 Albert St., London, Nov. 1857. 
 This letter is intended for you both. My viva-voce examina- 
 tion went off well. Dr. Eigby almost complimented me on my 
 paper ; said it was scanty, but contained all that was of import- 
 ance. He had told us when we were writing our papers that 
 he hoped we would write shortly and distinctly on account of 
 his sore eyes. This accounts for his contentment with my 
 paper, for I had mercy on his sore eyes, and instead of writing 
 three hours like the others, I only wrote one. At the viva-voce 
 he only gave me one or two questions, whereas he examined 
 the others for an hour. The other examiners talked and joked 
 with me for a few minutes and then let me go. At the practi- 
 cal examination I had a case of scabies, a case of bronchitis and 
 hypertrophied heart, and a case of phthisis, all of which I 
 diagnosed correctly and commented on. I have heard from 
 good authority that I have passed first-class, and I have not 
 the least doubt on the subject. 
 
 to l. 
 
 Strasbourg, February 13th, 1858. 
 Everybody here speaks German, and the greater part French 
 also. The woman who cleans my room cannot speak a word of 
 French, so that I am obliged to speak a little German. Stras- 
 bourg is a most interesting old city. The Cathedral is the most 
 magnificent Gothic building I have ever seen. The delicately 
 carved steeple rises higher than any building in the world, 
 excepting the Pyramid, and the stones of which it is built are 
 so finely cut, the arches, buttresses, etc., so thin, that, in the 
 distance, it looks more like lace than solid stone and mortar. 
 The city altogether is most picturesque. The roofs of the houses 
 are high and steep to prevent the snow from resting ; branches 
 of the Ehine traverse the city in every direction, and the water 
 is as clear as Derwentwater. There are three rows of fortifica- 
 tions surrounding the city, and large barracks with lots of 
 French soldiers. Strasbourg is one of the French Universities. 
 
70 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Lectures and everything at the hospitals are carried on in 
 French. This morning I went round with M. Sedillot, a surgeon 
 of whom, no doubt, you have read. Scarcely any of the patients 
 spoke French, and the doctor is obliged to make use of an in- 
 terpreter. The cold here has been extreme, and now, although it 
 has thawed for several days, there are people still skating on 
 some of the branches of the Ehine. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Strasbourg, March 3d, 1858. 
 
 I am not going to leave Strasbourg so soon as you think, for 
 I find myself very well here, and it is not very agreeable travel- 
 ling in the interior of Europe at this time of the year. The 
 equalising influence of the sea is scarcely felt here, and although 
 much to the south of Cumberland, the cold is three times at 
 least as severe. Ever since I came here the canal has been 
 frozen strong enough to bear, and every day I amuse myself by 
 watching the gamins sliding in front of my windows. "When 
 I leave Strasbourg I shall probably cross the Ehine, and spend 
 some time at Heidelberg, and then the weather will be fine 
 enough to let me enjoy a voyage down the Danube to Vienna. 
 The country in the immediate vicinity of Strasbourg is flat, 
 but the mountains and the Black Forest are within a walking 
 distance. The peasants, more German-looking than French, 
 are extremely good-natured and healthy-looking, and their cos- 
 tume is exceeding droll. The Catholics wear dresses (skirts) of 
 a bright red, and the Protestants of a blue colour ; both have 
 most extraordinary head-dresses, which I cannot describe to you. 
 Some have broad ribbons in bows on the top of the head, which, 
 in the distance, look like immense butterflies settled there; 
 others have Scotch caps turned backside foremost, and em- 
 broidered with silver and gold. Their shoes have silver buckles 
 and high heels, and their breasts are compressed by triangular 
 plates laced down by their gown. This may be a useful sort of 
 shield, but it quite disguises their form, and makes their chest 
 look as flat as a board. L. asked me about the descent of Louis 
 Napoleon on Strasbourg. Le pere Payen, an old militaire of the 
 grande armtfe d'ltalie, now half- superannuated, comic actor of 
 Strasbourg theatre, was telling me about it the other day. It 
 appears that Louis Napoleon made friends with a colonel 
 stationed here, persuaded him and sixty men to side with him, 
 then marched towards the garrison, and was in the act of making 
 a speech to the soldiers, setting forth his claim to the empire, 
 when a tambour-major stepped forward exclaiming "Dites 
 
done larceu 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 7 1 
 
 lone farceur pas de ces betises-la : je vous arrete au nom de 
 la loi." He then took hold of him by the collar, was knocked 
 down by a cook who stood near. However, as there were 2000 
 soldiers with the tambour-major on the side of the law, Louis 
 Napoleon and his party were soon overcome. 
 
 I subscribe to a library, and take in a German newspaper. 
 My reading relates chiefly to the history of France and Italy, 
 and I advance myself in German by studying this newspaper 
 and a medical book by Dr. Bambeyer you saw when I was at 
 Keswick. 
 
 P.S. I thought it best to leave London immediately, know- 
 ing that now is the best time to learn German, and that my 
 love of ease might tempt me to settle too quickly. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Samedi, 13 Mars 1858. 
 
 Je t'envoie une lettre que j'avais oublie de mettre a la poste; 
 comme ce que je t'ai 4crit peut servir encore je te la renvoie. 
 Cela m'etonnait de ne pas avoir de tes nouvelles, mais j'ai 
 reflechi que ne t'ayant pas crit tu ne savais pas si j'etais 
 encore a Strasbourg. ~Ne me reponds pas a cette lettre a moins 
 que tu n'aie quelque chose de presse a me dire, parceque je 
 vais quitter Strasbourg pour aller a Vienne. Si tu m'ecris, 
 mets " Poste Eestante," Strasbourg. Aussitot que je partirai je 
 previendrai a la poste que Ton me renvoit mes lettres a Vienne. 
 
 Au revoir, chere et bonne Alice. Souhaites le bon jour pour 
 moi a mon cher beau-frere. 
 
 P.S. Tu vois j'ai pense a te contenter en t'envoyant quelques 
 lignes tout a fait dans le style Francois. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Heidelberg, March 25th, 1858. 
 
 The weather during the last three weeks has been exceedingly 
 clear and fine, and I have availed myself of it to make an 
 excursion, first into the Department of the Bas-Khin, then to 
 Baden-Baden, and lastly to come here. My first excursion was 
 altogether out of the way of ordinary tourists, and the peasants 
 told me they had never seen any Englishmen in their neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 The country is wild and mountainous, with extensive forests 
 inhabited by wolves, foxes, etc., and numerous old ruined castles 
 on the tops of the lower hills. The peasants are exceedingly 
 hospitable. They seemed to consider it a pleasure to entertain 
 
72 LETTEES OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 me and give me all their luxuries, and when I left them, always 
 pressed me to stay longer. I passed Phalsbourg, a little town 
 strongly fortified, which Louis Napoleon intended to march upon 
 after securing Strasbourg. If he. had succeeded with these two 
 towns, he would probably then have got possession of the whole 
 of France, but his position would not have been so secure as it 
 is now. The soldiers of France are one and all of them in favour 
 of Napoleon, partly because he does all he can to obtain their 
 good-will, but also, in great measure, on account of the dear 
 memory of the first Emperor. The peasants in the east of France 
 do not like him, but they are afraid to speak their sentiments. 
 At Saarburg, near Saverne, a schoolmaster was put in prison 
 for three months to await his trial, for having said something 
 in a cafe* against the Government. A punishment of this sort 
 for a man with a family is very severe, and causes great terror 
 in the neighbourhood. During my stay at Strasbourg three 
 persons of that town were arrested and put in prison. Most 
 Frenchmen with whom I have spoken privately are of opinion 
 that this state of affairs will not last long. 
 
 In coming here I spent a night at Baden-Baden. There are 
 two old castles on the mountains which shelter the town. One 
 of these is inhabited during the summer by the Grand-Duke, the 
 other is in ruins. From the ruins, to which I ascended, towards 
 sunset, there is a magnificent view of the Bhine valley. The 
 other castle is exceedingly curious ; dungeons of great depth are 
 hollowed out of the rock below the castle. The doors of these 
 dungeons are immense blocks of stone turning on iron hinges. 
 Some of the cells open from above, and the prisoners were let 
 down in chairs. The room of the secret, tribunal and the cell and 
 instruments of torture are so dismal and horrid that on seeing 
 them one can scarcely avoid a shudder. What must have been 
 the feelings of the poor victims three or four hundred years ago ! 
 The little town of Baden is well sheltered from the north and 
 east winds by an amphitheatre of wooded mountains, and the 
 ground is probably warmed and the climate ameliorated by the 
 hot springs which burst from the earth, and are received into 
 troughs in the street. The water is sulphurous, and hot enough 
 to boil an egg. The season commences in May; until then 
 there is no gambling. At present there are scarcely any 
 strangers. As yet I have scarcely had time to see Heidelberg. 
 The ruins of the castle are most picturesque, and the town is 
 clean and quaint. I have not yet been to the hospital, but I 
 intend going to-morrow morning. There are about 500 students, 
 who walk about the streets in the most extraordinary caps of 
 every form and colour. They are said to be much given to 
 duelling and beer-drinking. 
 
BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 I intend staying a few days here, then I shall go to Munich, 
 and from there to Vienna. On my arrival at Vienna I shall 
 inquire for letters at the Poste Eestante. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Heidelberg, April 3c?, 1858. 
 
 I write to congratulate and wish you many happy returns of 
 your sixty-seventh birthday. (I have added ten, and subtracted 
 one ! !) The letter will arrive a day or two late, but I know 
 will be equally prized by you. 
 
 In coming here I rested a night at Baden-Baden. 
 
 The weather has been exceedingly fine, and the woods and 
 country in general are very much in the same state as the 
 woods at Matlock when we were there. The buds are swollen 
 and ready to burst into leaf, and some trees even show a few 
 leaves. The Neckar (the river of Heidelberg) is a large rapid- 
 running river, like the Tyne at Blaydon in size, but full of rocks 
 and winding at the feet of wooded mountains. The picture in 
 your breakfast-room will give you a very good idea of the 
 bridge, town, and river. There is a good hospital and several 
 very distinguished Professors, but at present there is a vacation 
 for Easter, and consequently there are no lectures. I expect 
 shortly (in a day or two) to be on my way to Vienna. Tell 
 Henry that I climbed to the very top of Strasbourg Cathedral 
 (the highest building in Europe). The last few steps of the 
 ascent were rather alarming, for there is no rail to prevent 
 falling, and the immense height is rather apt to make one giddy. 
 Fortunately there was no wind when I was there, and conse- 
 quently no danger. The day was clear, and I had a magnificent 
 view of the Ehine valley and mountains. The construction 
 of the tower is very curious, and can only be understood by 
 ascending. 
 
 to l. 
 
 May lith, 1858, Vienna. 
 I have purposely been rather long in replying to your 
 letter, in order that I might tell you something about my mode 
 of life here, and of the manner in which hospital affairs are 
 carried on. As I anticipated, I came by Stuttgart and Munich, 
 and then down the Danube from Donauworth. Unfor- 
 tunately throughout the whole of my journey the weather was 
 cold and wet, but that did not at all prevent me from seeing 
 all that is to be seen in the different towns through which I 
 passed. I was three whole days on the Danube. We were 
 carried rapidly along by the swollen muddy current, through 
 
76 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 each other. It is also a great convenience to the students when 
 they have some time to wait between the different classes. A 
 certain number of the patients pay for their accommodation, and 
 are in consequence spared the visits of the students. Several 
 of the surgeons and physicians live in a part of the hospital 
 separated from the patients. I have made the acquaintance of 
 two, viz. Professor Sigmund, and Dr. S. Zigmondy. They have 
 both nice apartments. The latter has his wife living with him 
 in the hospital. The teaching in Vienna is in some respects 
 better than in England, but this would take too long to explain 
 in a letter. We will talk over it together at some future time. 
 The German students have one great disadvantage, viz. that 
 their books are all too long and tedious. German Professors 
 don't seem to have the faculty of condensing and arranging their 
 matter, and most of their books are interminable. The Life of 
 Goethe most commonly read here is a translation from the 
 English. In another letter I will try and tell you something of 
 the Professors. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Venice, July 13th, 1858. 
 I left Vienna on Friday morning, and after an eight hours' 
 ride through a mountainous country I arrived at Gratz, the 
 capital of Styria. There I made the acquaintance of Herr 
 Weiss, Professor of History in the University, and was shown 
 by him about the town, and introduced to several gentlemen 
 who he said were very famous poets and romance-writers. 
 There was nothing particularly remarkable about them except- 
 ing the quantity of beer that they drank and the number of 
 cigars that they smoked. The Professor himself, however, is a 
 very intellectual-looking man, and awfully learned. He is at 
 present, he told me, writing a book on Wales and the Welsh 
 an out-of-the-way sort of subject, one would think, for a German 
 Professor in the heart of Styria ! My next day's journey was 
 to Trieste, about fourteen hours. The country here is equally 
 beautiful, fresh, and green. The line runs through verdant 
 valleys, and by the side of fresh-looking streams and rivers, 
 and to the right the Tyrol mountains tower high up into the 
 skies. . . . 
 
 to l. 
 
 Venice, July 20th, 1858. 
 Of all the beautiful towns in Europe that I have seen, Venice, 
 to my taste, is by far the most splendid. I live in Eiva dei 
 
VENICE. 77 
 
 Sciavoni, and from my windows have a splendid view of the 
 Adriatic and several of the little islands surrounding Venice. 
 Gondolas containing fair Venetian donnas and their cavaliers 
 are continually passing my door, and shoot under a beautiful 
 marble bridge to sail about the " sunnier waters " beyond. I 
 spend a few hours every morning at home, making an abstract 
 of a book on Logic. It is the most distasteful to me of all the 
 studies I was ever engaged in. M. Cousin, in his book on 
 Moral Philosophy, clearly proves that nobody almost who has 
 written on the subject knows anything about it. As you may 
 imagine, it is not at all satisfactory in closing a long and difficult 
 book to feel that all your labour has been in vain, and that all 
 your knowledge is negative. It is a curious fact that the two 
 most distinguished logicians in England (Whately and De Mor- 
 gan) should, the one be a homceopathist, and the other a believer 
 in table-turning. If I were free I would close for ever my books 
 on Moral Philosophy and Logic. As it is, I must still continue 
 to study them for months. It is decidedly warm here, but at 
 the same time very agreeable, for there is always a pleasant sea- 
 breeze, no dust, no dirt, and of course no bustle of horses and 
 carriages ; multitudes of people walk silently along the clean 
 well-paved streets. The air is as pure as at sea, for the tide 
 comes and washes through the town twice daily. I was through 
 the hospital yesterday, and saw not a single case of typhus. I 
 am also told by the doctors that fever is very rare. The drain- 
 age of Venice is very peculiar, a plan discovered by the old 
 Venetians. With a slight modification I think it might be well 
 applied to London, and would cure the present condition of the 
 Thames. I spend an hour or two every day looking at the 
 palace and churches. This is much pleasanter than seeing 
 sights the whole day long, and the impressions left are pleasanter 
 and more lasting. Venice is more separated from the land than 
 I expected. There is a railway-bridge leading to Verona, but 
 this is so long that looking along it from Venice in the perspec- 
 tive it dwindles into a line, and the opposite shore is quite in- 
 distinct, although the high mountains of Tyrol behind can be 
 distinctly seen. Venice does not at all give one the idea of a 
 city built on an island, or rather, as it is said, on seventy-two 
 islands. 
 
 The palaces seem to rise right out of the sea, as if their 
 foundations were laid fathoms deep at the bottom of the sea. 
 The green sea- weed clings to the white marble stairs which lead 
 down to the water. Two or three nights ago there was a grand 
 serenade upon the water: thousands of illuminated gondolas, 
 with music, fire- works, etc., passed up the grand canal ; many 
 of the palaces were also illuminated. 
 
 
76 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 each other. It is also a great convenience to the students when 
 they have some time to wait between the different classes. A 
 certain number of the patients pay for their accommodation, and 
 are in consequence spared the visits of the students. Several 
 of the surgeons and physicians live in a part of the hospital 
 separated from the patients. I have made the acquaintance of 
 two, viz. Professor Sigmund, and Dr. S. Zigmondy. They have 
 both nice apartments. The latter has his wife living with him 
 in the hospital. The teaching in Vienna is in some respects 
 better than in England, but this would take too long to explain 
 in a letter. We will talk over it together at some future time. 
 The German students have one great disadvantage, viz. that 
 their books are all too long and tedious. German Professors 
 don't seem to have the faculty of condensing and arranging their 
 matter, and most of their books are interminable. The Life of 
 Goethe most commonly read here is a translation from the 
 English. In another letter I will try and tell you something of 
 the Professors. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Venice, July 13th, 1858. 
 I left Vienna on Friday morning, and after an eight hours' 
 ride through a mountainous country I arrived at Gratz, the 
 capital of Styria. There I made the acquaintance of Herr 
 Weiss, Professor of History in the University, and was shown 
 by him about the town, and introduced to several gentlemen 
 who he said were very famous poets and romance-writers. 
 There was nothing particularly remarkable about them except- 
 ing the quantity of beer that they drank and the number of 
 cigars that they smoked. The Professor himself, however, is a 
 very intellectual-looking man, and awfully learned. He is at 
 present, he told me, writing a book on Wales and the Welsh 
 an out-of-the-way sort of subject, one would think, for a German 
 Professor in the heart of Styria ! My next day's journey was 
 to Trieste, about fourteen hours. The country here is equally 
 beautiful, fresh, and green. The line runs through verdant 
 valleys, and by the side of fresh-looking streams and rivers, 
 and to the right the Tyrol mountains tower high up into the 
 skies. . . . 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Venice, July 20th, 1858. 
 Of all the beautiful towns in Europe that I have seen, Venice, 
 to my taste, is by far the most splendid. I live in Eiva dei 
 
VENICE. 7 7 
 
 Sciavoni, and from my windows have a splendid view of the 
 Adriatic and several of the little islands surrounding Venice. 
 Gondolas containing fair Venetian donnas and their cavaliers 
 are continually passing my door, and shoot under a beautiful 
 marble bridge to sail about the " sunnier waters " beyond. I 
 spend a few hours every morning at home, making an abstract 
 of a book on Logic. It is the most distasteful to me of all the 
 studies I was ever engaged in. M. Cousin, in his book on 
 Moral Philosophy, clearly proves that nobody almost who has 
 written on the subject knows anything about it. As you may 
 imagine, it is not at all satisfactory in closing a long and difficult 
 book to feel that all your labour has been in vain, and that all 
 your knowledge is negative. It is a curious fact that the two 
 most distinguished logicians in England (Whately and De Mor- 
 gan) should, the one be a homceopathist, and the other a believer 
 in table-turning. If I were free I would close for ever my books 
 on Moral Philosophy and Logic. As it is, I must still continue 
 to study them for months. It is decidedly warm here, but at 
 the same time very agreeable, for there is always a pleasant sea- 
 breeze, no dust, no dirt, and of course no bustle of horses and 
 carriages ; multitudes of people walk silently along the clean 
 well-paved streets. The air is as pure as at sea, for the tide 
 comes and washes through the town twice daily. I was through 
 the hospital yesterday, and saw not a single case of typhus. I 
 am also told by the doctors that fever is very rare. The drain- 
 age of Venice is very peculiar, a plan discovered by the old 
 Venetians. With a slight modification I think it might be well 
 applied to London, and would cure the present condition of the 
 Thames. I spend an hour or two every day looking at the 
 palace and churches. This is much pleasanter than seeing 
 sights the whole day long, and the impressions left are pleasanter 
 aud more lasting. Venice is more separated from the land than 
 I expected. There is a railway-bridge leading to Verona, but 
 this is so long that looking along it from Venice in the perspec- 
 tive it dwindles into a line, and the opposite shore is quite in- 
 distinct, although the high mountains of Tyrol behind can be 
 distinctly seen. Venice does not at all give one the idea of a 
 city built on an island, or rather, as it is said, on seventy-two 
 islands. 
 
 The palaces seem to rise right out of the sea, as if their 
 foundations were laid fathoms deep at the bottom of the sea. 
 The green sea- weed clings to the white marble stairs which lead 
 down to the water. Two or three nights ago there was a grand 
 serenade upon the water: thousands of illuminated gondolas, 
 with music, fire-works, etc., passed up the grand canal ; many 
 of the palaces were also illuminated. 
 
78 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 It is impossible by description to give you any idea of the 
 beauty of Venice. It far surpasses my expectations. The men 
 are handsome and intelligent-looking, and the women beautiful. 
 At the theatre, where one sees them together, the contrast be- 
 tween the Germans and Italians is most marked. One can't 
 help preferring the blood-horse to the dray, although the latter 
 is the more useful animal. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 November 1858. 
 I received Isabella's letter this morning. She tells me that 
 you are much afraid that I am going to decide to go to India, 
 and that you have some thoughts of coming to London on 
 Friday with Mr. Pow. Of course, I should be delighted to see 
 you here, but at the same time I should not like you to subject 
 yourself to so much fatigue at this time of the year. Bather 
 than you should do so I would come myself to Shields for a day 
 or two. The examination will be over in a month or six weeks, 
 and then I shall be perfectly free to come and spend some time 
 with you. Don't make yourself anxious about me until I have 
 decided. The passing of the examination, you know, does not 
 oblige me to go. The distance to India is not nearly so great 
 as it was, and when the railway is completed it will be probably 
 only a three weeks' or a month's journey. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 December 1858. 
 I write this letter to-day in order that you may receive it on 
 Christmas Day. Wish all the family a merry Christmas from 
 me, and tell them that I would have liked very much to have 
 spent it with them, if circumstances would have allowed me. 
 I have accepted an invitation to dinner from Mrs. C. It will 
 be some consolation for you to know that I shall not eat my 
 Christmas dinner alone. You will be glad to hear that I have 
 received the Crimean medal ; I called on Sir William Codrington, 
 late Commander-in-chief, whom I had met with in the East, 
 and it is through his exertions that I obtained it. He was very 
 polite to me, and kept me for nearly two hours with him, while 
 he hunted through his old despatches, and endeavoured to 
 make out a strong claim for me. There are few military men, I 
 should think, so systematic and careful of every little matter. I 
 know of several instances now in which his good business-like 
 qualities were shown ; and I think it would have been much 
 better for our army in the Crimea if he had been Commander- 
 in-chief at an earlier period of the war. 
 
LETTER TO HIS MOTHER. 79 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 London, Jan. 1st, 1859. 
 I received your letter yesterday, and hasten to send you the 
 New Year's gift which you ask for. I wish I could make it 
 kind and expressive of all the love I feel for you. As this is 
 impossible, you must take it for granted, and believe that as I 
 am not demonstrative, I feel an affection for you all the deeper. 
 I am working hard still, but in another fortnight I shall have 
 finished, and hope to be on my way to see you. 
 
 
80 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LETTERS FROM INDIA AND CHINA. 
 
 And through a lattice on the soul 
 Looks thy fair face." 
 
 In Memorkim. 
 
 What a grief this going to India was to us ! When he had 
 bid farewell to his mother, and all the rest of the family, he 
 and I set forth together, travelling by night to London. We 
 had three or four days there, days of unrest and sadness, of 
 preparation for the voyage, of bidding good-bye to friends who 
 were never more to greet him, who lamented the loss of his 
 companionship. Dr. Parkes of Netley knew his worth, and 
 especially regretted that one so promising should leave this 
 country. 
 
 It was an early grey February morning when he began his 
 long journey to the far East. I alone went with him to London 
 Bridge. As we drove through the squares and streets, we 
 talked of what was nearest our hearts, and we mingled our 
 tears. He sent kind messages to those who were dear to both. 
 He said that it .was not ambition which induced him to go to 
 India, that he liked a quiet life, not contention or struggle. 
 Then we parted; a sweet tender smile was the last look he 
 gave me, and he went on his way, and I knew that I should see 
 his beautiful youthful face no more except in dreams. 
 
 Eleven years afterwards, when parting from his little girls, 
 he recalls the bitterness of that hour, showing how greatly he 
 had shared in the sorrow. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Charlotte Square, Friday night. 
 
 I am just going to write you a few words of farewell before 
 
 leaving England. I am going to-morrow morning early, and 
 
 Allie will accompany me to the train, and then set off herself 
 
 for Shields. Since I left you I have been very busy, but now 
 
ON THE VOYAGE. 81 
 
 I have got my business tolerably satisfactorily accomplished. 
 I am at present, and probably shall be for some time, in rather 
 low spirits, and totally incapable of writing a pleasant letter. 
 When I arrive at the Mediterranean I feel that I shall be 
 better. Whenever I have a good opportunity I shall write to 
 you, and let you know all that I am doing in India. You shall 
 hear as frequently from me now as you ever did, and this will 
 make the distance which separates us appear less. You will 
 soon begin to look forward to the time when we shall meet 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Harbour of Marseilles, Feb. 28th, 1859, 
 
 ON BOARD THE " PANTHER." 
 
 We are waiting in the harbour of Marseilles for the English 
 mail, which has been detained by bad weather. As the sea bide 
 fair to be very rough, I think it well to begin my letter to you 
 now, while the ship is steady. 
 
 We took our time passing through France, and stayed at three 
 places by the way, Montreux, Chalons-sur-Saone, and Avignon. 
 
 I was particularly delighted with the last of these, Avignon. 
 It is a fine old town, surrounded by thick walls, protected by 
 many square stone towers. The houses are old, but substantial, 
 built of dressed pleasant-coloured stones. There is an old 
 cathedral (eighth century), and the palace of the Popes, large, and 
 built like a fortress of immense strength. The view from a 
 terrace behind the cathedral is exceedingly fine ; in the dis- 
 tance high snowy mountains, and near at hand the Ehone and 
 the Durance dividing, forming islands and winding about. 
 There are several bridges. One ruined bridge for foot-pas- 
 sengers is very beautifully formed. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 Between Corsica and Sardinia, 
 Feb. 29th, 1859. 
 We left Marseilles at 5.30 p.m. yesterday. The wind blew 
 furiously from the north, but as that was directly behind us we 
 went along famously and without much motion. I slept well, 
 and as yet have not had the least feeling of sea-sickness. There 
 is a Dr. Murray in the same cabin with me. We knew each 
 other at Balaklava in 1856, and as you may imagine were 
 rather surprised to be thus thrown together again. He has 
 been ten years in China, and is now on his way to Hong-Kong 
 as surgeon to the Embassy. We are on board of a very fine 
 
 F 
 
82 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 vessel, and the accommodation for passengers is exceedingly 
 good. There are about thirty passengers ; but there are not 
 many going all the way to Calcutta. Several of the passengers 
 are French, and there is one very nice old Turkish gentleman, 
 who belongs to the household of the Viceroy of Egypt, and is 
 probably ambassador or something of that sort at Paris, for he 
 tells me that he has made the journey from Alexandria to Paris 
 about forty times. 
 
 I forget to tell you yesterday that T received a letter from 
 Allie at Paris. I did not inquire for letters at Marseilles, not 
 expecting to receive any. To-day the sea is tolerably smooth, 
 but the wind is rather against us. The weather is fine and 
 sunny, and the snowy mountains of Corsica and Sardinia look 
 very brilliant, contrasting with the dark blue sea. The pas- 
 sengers are walking about on deck, standing in groups making 
 each other's acquaintance, and trying to pass away the time, 
 which is already beginning to hang heavy. I put down all 
 sorts of things in this letter, hoping that something may interest 
 you, and feeling sure that the very fact of its coming from me 
 will make it readable to you. I have got out my books of Hindu- 
 stani, and shall learn a little every day. I already have learnt 
 to write a little, but the characters are very difficult. 
 
 March 1st, off the South Coast of Sicily. Yesterday evening 
 we went sailing close to the shore of the northern part of 
 Sardinia. The country is rugged, mountainous, and unfertile, 
 and, I am told by a Frenchman, is chiefly inhabited by robbers 
 of Corsica, who are avoiding justice by living there. It is 
 however said by the French that the Corsicans have such a 
 strong sentiment of patriotism that they all return sooner or 
 later to get themselves hanged in their fatherland. 
 
 to l, (journal.) 
 
 Saturday. We arrived at Malta early on Thursday morning. I 
 went ashore early, looked through S. Giovanni Church to pass 
 the time, and then called upon my friend Dr. Edwards, and 
 spent the whole day with him and his friends, among whom I 
 found the chief purveyor Pigott, who was formerly at Eenkioi 
 Hospital along with me. We were detained at Malta in con- 
 sequence of the letters having been wet in crossing from Dover 
 to Calais. If they had not been dried at Malta they would 
 probably have been rotten before arriving at Calcutta, Edwards 
 and I walked about Malta together. From the fortifications 
 we had fine views of the harbour. The sea was of a dark blue, 
 and the houses and rocks of Malta of a glaring light yellow. A 
 Eussian fleet, consisting of four large ships, was just leaving the 
 
11ED SEA. 83 
 
 harbour. We visited the military and naval hospitals. The 
 naval hospital is delightfully situated on the side of the har- 
 bour opposite to the greater part of the town. It is on a highish 
 promontory, with sea on both sides of it, and I should think is 
 always well supplied with fresh air. In connection with it 
 there is a nice garden, with palms, orange-trees, and aloes grow- 
 ing luxuriantly. The wards are large, high, and well ventilated, 
 and the beds, etc., clean and in good order. Edwards and his 
 friend treated me very hospitably, and I enjoyed very much 
 getting ashore, feeling myself on terra firma and among friends 
 once more. 
 
 The weather is fine and sunny, and we can just see the coast of 
 Africa. We expect to arrive at Alexandria early on Monday 
 morning. I do not enjoy my voyage at all. Time passes with 
 me very slowly, and the end of my journey (Calcutta) seems 
 very far off in the future. We took five passengers on board at 
 Malta. At Suez we shall join the mail from Southampton, and 
 then our numbers, I am told, will be increased three times. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Steamboat " Nubia," 
 The Eed Sea, near Aden, March 1 3. 
 
 I received your letter at Paris. I travelled very comfortably 
 through France. As you have probably seen my letters to L., 
 mother, and William, it would be useless giving an account of 
 the voyage. The heat here is very great, and is much com- 
 plained of. It increases daily, and I am told will have reached 
 its acme when we arrive at Aden. As yet I find it agreeable. 
 There is scarcely any motion. At night it is most delightful to 
 sit on deck. The sky is always clear and the stars seem brighter 
 than in the north. We are close to Aden, therefore I must 
 finish my short note to you. Ma sceur Men aime'e. 
 
 P.S. All the sailors are Indians, and most of them are active 
 and good-looking men, but not powerful. The agility of some of 
 them is surprising. They run up and down the rigging just 
 like monkeys. Some of them are almost naked. Some of the 
 passengers have black servants, and these are exceedingly hand- 
 some men, with beautiful eyes and fine mild expressions. One 
 who stands beside me at dinner is dressed in pure white Hindu 
 clothes, and is perhaps the finest-looking man I ever saw, but 
 there is something about his expression which tells me that he 
 would not exert himself for the world, and which also shows a 
 sort of stoical indifference to men and things, perfect content, 
 but no delight in life. 
 
84 letters of james fawcus. 
 
 to his brother henry. 
 
 On board the " Nubia," Eed Sea. 
 I promised to give you an account of a Turkish Bath, but 
 the one which I took at Alexandria did not appear to me 
 exactly the same as the regular Turkish Bath ; however, I will 
 describe it to you. First, I was shown into a large room of an 
 irregular shape, lighted from the top. In connection with the 
 room there were several little rooms, with a few mattresses lying 
 on the floor of each of them. I was ushered into one of these, 
 then my money, watch, etc., were taken from me and given to 
 the master of the bath to take charge of for me. One of the 
 attendants helped me to undress, twisted a white towel round 
 my head, a blue one round my waist, and then threw a white 
 sheet over my shoulders, and put wooden shoes on my feet. In 
 this costume I was conducted through several rooms full of 
 naked bathers, lying on their backs on marble slabs, and being 
 soaped by Hummungees, until I arrived at a little hot room 
 with one small trough, into which ran both hot and cold water ; 
 in this room there was also a large bath. The floor was of 
 marble, and the room was full of steam, and its temperature 
 seemed to me to be under 100 Fah. When I entered, the 
 Hummungee was already engaged in the same room with 
 another bather, and consequently I had to wait a little. The 
 Hummungee commenced his operations on me by throwing 
 very warm water on my arms and breast, then he put on a 
 linen glove without fingers, smacked his hands together with a 
 flourish, and passed the gloved hand firmly but slowly over my 
 arms, breast, back, and legs, and succeeded wonderfully in 
 peeling off a large portion of my outer skin. Then he soaped 
 me all over, using tow instead of a sponge. He then took my 
 turban off, and soaped my head by the same means. After that 
 I had water poured over me, and was told to get into the bath, 
 which was just like an old Eoman bath in shape. After re- 
 maining in the bath for about ten minutes I was reclothed and 
 conducted back to my clothes ; then the shampooer made his 
 appearance, and began first to wear off the thick skin from my 
 feet with a piece of stone that looked like lava. Then he 
 began pressing my muscles and cracking my joints. His method 
 of cracking my back, which he did at three places, is too com- 
 plicated to describe, and I am not even sure if I quite under- 
 stand how he managed it. It was a most extraordinary sensa- 
 tion, and I do not think I could resolve to subject myself again 
 to the same operation. My chibouk and coffee were then 
 brought, and I was left to enjoy kef. 
 
RED SEA. 85 
 
 TO L. (JOURNAL.) 
 
 Eed Sea, March 10th } 1859. 
 
 We were only at Alexandria from nine in the morning till 
 five at night, but that was quite long enough to see and get a 
 good idea of the town. It is a dirty place, with all the confu- 
 sion and dirt but none of the beauties of Constantinople. I 
 rode about the town on a donkey, visited Pompey's Pillar and 
 Cleopatra's Needle, which is very like the obelisk at Paris. We 
 set off from Alexandria by train at five p.m., and travelled 
 through a flat country by the sea-side for a long distance. At 
 nine o'clock we had to leave our carriages and get into a steam- 
 boat to cross the Nile, which at this place is about the width 
 of the Thames at London. The night was dark, but we could 
 see that the country was flat, with few trees, and the Nile looked 
 like a large canal, about fifteen feet below the level of the land, 
 with abruptly sloping banks. About two in the morning we 
 arrived at Cairo, and went to the hotel. As we had to start 
 again for Suez, I got up by daylight, took a donkey, and went 
 full gallop through the town, followed by an Arab, who used 
 various means to induce my donkey to go faster. Cairo is, 
 according to my idea, the most thoroughly Oriental city I have 
 ever seen. It is full of mosques, minarets, baths, curious old 
 houses with flat roofs, narrow winding streets with overhanging 
 windows. Eound about the city there are large plantations of 
 palm-trees, and in the city itself there are solitary palm-trees, 
 which harmonise well with the Oriental architecture. I had a 
 ride right through the city ; my object was to reach the mosque 
 of Mohammed Ali, which stands on a hill and commands a full 
 view of the city and the valley of the Nile. The morning was 
 clear and fresh, and I was delighted. I was some height above 
 the other buildings of the city. The valley of the Nile was 
 green, and wooded in parts. Several clusters of pyramids were 
 easily seen in all, I should think, about a dozen. When the 
 sun shone on them they looked like snow mountains, except in 
 form, for in the distance their points and angles appeared per- 
 fectly sharp and defined as if they had been recently cut. 
 
 Since I arrived in Egypt I have enjoyed myself exceedingly. 
 The sight of the Arab faces and costumes reminded me of old 
 times in Turkey, where I spent such a pleasant year of my life. 
 I regret, however, that I had not more time to wander about 
 Cairo. The other passengers were too tired in the morning to 
 see anything, so that I was more lucky than they. We set off 
 again by railway for Suez at eight A.M., and in a few minutes 
 were right in the desert. Fortunately the heat was not great ; 
 I even was scarcely warm enough, and kept my great-coat con- 
 
8G LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 tinually. We came to a station every now and then, where 
 there were a few Arab tents and huts, and a water-tank for the 
 engine. At each of these stations I used to take a little walk, 
 examine the sand and stones of the desert, and inhale the de- 
 lightful fresh cool air. The sand is of a brownish yellow colour, 
 and very stony. The stones as it were form a sort of crust on 
 the top, the sand having been blown away and leaving them. 
 The stones that I picked up were all flint ; some of them were 
 evidently pieces of petrified wood, petrified with silica, not with 
 carbonate of lime ; at some parts there is not a trace of vegeta- 
 tion, but generally there are here and there small tufts of 
 apparently dried-up plants. We were five hours in going from 
 Cairo to Suez. At Suez there is nothing interesting ; the shores 
 of the sea are dry, and in parts rocky. In going down the gult 
 some of the mountains are very high and precipitous, but I saw 
 no signs of vegetation. The tops of some of them were covered 
 with snow. To-day we are in the middle of the Eed Sea, out 
 of sight of land. The ship is going steadily and fast, with a 
 fair wind. We have four times as many passengers as in the 
 other steamboat. They are all well, but very hard up for some- 
 thing to do. Many of the gentlemen play at whist, even in the 
 day-time. There is a prayer-meeting every morning. One or 
 two of the ladies quarrel, but the majority of them are happy 
 and good-natured. Sir C. Trevelyan, Governor of Madras, is 
 among the passengers. We have had some talk together, and 
 he is very polite to me. I forgot to tell you something of the 
 mirage. There seem to be two kinds. The horizon sometimes 
 appears like a wavy sea, and the effect is produced by the heated 
 air rising from the hot sand, just as you see it rising from a 
 heated stone ; at other times there is an atmospheric effect 
 (more difficult to understand) by which you see a lake, with 
 shore, islands, etc., in the distance, and can with difficulty be 
 persuaded that it is an illusion. The line of the horizon when 
 I crossed the desert was always indistinct, and it was impossible 
 to distinguish the little inequality from the clouds. Long be- 
 fore we reached the sea, we fancied over and over again that we 
 saw it, till at last we became incredulous. When we saw the 
 ships, then of course we were satisfied. When we first saw 
 them we were twelve miles off, yet they were quite distinct, and 
 their hulls appeared lifted high out of the water. The weather 
 is decidedly warm to-day. Passengers are complaining of the 
 heat, but I enjoy it. We are going along steadily and rapidly 
 through the middle of the Ked Sea, with a clear sky and a deep 
 blue sea, and a breeze which just whitens the tops of the 
 waves. At dinner and breakfast the punkahs or fans are kept 
 constantly going by Indians. 
 
ADEN. 87 
 
 TO HIS MOTHEK. 
 
 Ship " Nubia/' Indian Ocean, between 
 Aden and Ceylon. 
 We arrived at Aden on Monday morning, and stayed there 
 all day. The captain of the " Cassibelaunus " came on board 
 and lent me a carriage to go and see the town of Aden, which 
 is about 3} miles from the port. I had always heard nothing 
 but ill of the town, and was prepared to dislike it, but as my 
 expectations were not great I was more than satisfied. There 
 is no grass or vegetation to be seen, with the exception of a few 
 small trees, which have been recently planted, and are almost 
 dried up. The rocks are high and rugged, of a brown colour, 
 and are of a hard trap, which when broken up makes a very 
 good soil, but this for want of water becomes like unfertile 
 sand. The forms of the mountains and rocks are very 
 picturesque, and the sea runs in among them, forming beautiful 
 little bays, the clear bright blue water of which contrasts 
 beautifully with the arid sand and brown rocks. All that is 
 wanted to make Aden a perfect little paradise is a plentiful 
 supply of fresh water. In the olden time (many hundred years 
 ago), when the Arabs were a more cultivated and civilised race 
 than at present, there were large tanks which collected the 
 water which ran down from the sides of the mountains and 
 rocks. Sometimes for a year or two not a drop of rain falls at 
 Aden, but when the showers do come they are so heavy that 
 if the water were collected it would be sufficient for the interval. 
 The present Governor of Aden, E. L. Playfair, E.N"., has 
 discovered some of the old tanks, and had the sand with which 
 they were completely concealed cleared away. Six of the tanks 
 are already fit to receive and hold water. They are immense 
 basins, fantastically shaped, but it is said of a form remarkably 
 well suited to resist the tremendous force with which torrents 
 of water occasionally come down from the rocky ravines. The 
 lining of the tanks is composed of a cement called chuman, 
 which becomes very hard, and has a surface smooth and polished 
 like marble. I had a nice bath in the sea at Aden, but I was 
 afraid to swim on account of sharks. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 Near Point de Galle, Ceylon, 
 25 th March. 
 We have had a very smooth passage from Aden. The 
 weather has been very hot, so much so that at night we are 
 obliged to sleep without clothes. Time passes very slowly, 
 
88 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 because we have nothing to do, and the interruptions are so 
 frequent that it is impossible to read anything serious. We try 
 to make the time pass more quickly by means of singing, dancing, 
 and theatricals. The piano is taken on deck every night, and 
 that with a fiddle and a drum makes very good music to dance 
 to. The rolling of the ship makes dancing rather a difficult 
 and hazardous proceeding, and the slight accidents which occur 
 in consequence cause a good deal of laughter and fun. One 
 night there was a theatre, with stage, foot-lights, etc., rigged up 
 on deck this was a grand pastime. 
 
 to his mother. 
 
 Between Point de Galle and Madras. 
 It seems now such a long time since I left England ; the 
 voyage is dreadfully tedious, but yet endurable. It is some 
 relief to write a few lines to you, and to think of your reading 
 them, as I know you will do, with pleasure. I begin now to 
 look forward to my arrival at Calcutta, when I expect I shall 
 shortly receive some letters from home. The receipt of them 
 will give me greater delight than you can imagine, for I am 
 sure I shall feel very lonely on my arrival. The few acquaint- 
 ances I have made on the voyage are going to leave Calcutta. 
 We spent a very pleasant twenty-four hours at Galle on 
 Thursday and Friday. We arrived there at mid-day. The 
 weather was decidedly hot, but yet there was a pleasant breeze, 
 sufficiently strong to make the waves throw up their white foam 
 upon the rocks. We anchored in a beautiful little bay, the 
 shores of which were wooded to the water's edge with plantains, 
 palm-trees of all kinds, many tropical plants and trees of which 
 I do not know the names, some of them bearing most magnificent 
 flowers, and all looking fresh, green, and beautiful. The town 
 of Galle is not large, and there is nothing of consequence to be 
 seen. The Custom-house has the date 1658, and so has the 
 Mansion-house. There are several good hotels, cool and clean. 
 Lord Elgin is living at Galle for a short time. He invited Sir 
 C. Trevelyan and all of us to a ball at his house, which I did 
 not leave till two in the morning. One can dance quite as well 
 in hot as in cold weather in this part of the world, because it is 
 not considered improper to appear in light clothes. After two 
 hours' sleep I got up, hired a carriage, and drove to a place 
 called Wach- Walla. The country looked most beautiful in the 
 early morning. The drive was sometimes through a forest of 
 palms, which were often covered with creeping plants, which 
 formed festoons between them and bore quantities of enormous 
 
TO THE SAME. 
 
 CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 89 
 
 brilliant-coloured flowers. Many of the plants are very aromatic. 
 The cinnamon plant is very common ; its wood, leaf, and flower 
 have all the well-known smell, and I therefore easily recognised 
 it. I enclose you a little piece of grass which has a strong 
 smell of lemon. From Wach- Walla we had a splendid view 
 of mountains, a fine fertile valley, and a winding river, giving 
 off canals for irrigating the rice-fields. The inhabitants of 
 Ceylon are most of them ugly and effeminate-looking. The 
 men wear their hair long and held back with a comb like 
 Wilhelmina's. 
 
 I shall write you a few lines to-day, as it is your birthday, 
 but I shall not be able to post this letter until the 8th. May 
 you have many happy returns, and may we spend many of them 
 together ! From Ceylon hither was not particularly interesting. 
 The weather was calm and hot, and the steamboat went 
 monotonously through the water for nine days. We stayed for 
 a few hours at Madras, but we had no time to go ashore. We 
 were a day coming up the Hooghly. This river, from its mouth 
 to very near Calcutta, is very like the Thames from the Nore to 
 Greenwich. The waters have the same colour, and the shipping 
 and tug-boats are just like those one meets on the London 
 river. But as we approach Calcutta the character of the river 
 alters much. The banks of the river are seen on each side 
 more distinctly, and then, instead of oaks and chestnuts, we see 
 palm-trees and bananas, with their large light-green succulent 
 leaves. By the river-side there are lots of nice houses, square, 
 with flat roofs and broad verandahs, and surrounded with large 
 gardens, laid out like English parks. 
 
 I have first-rate quarters here, about the coolest in Calcutta. 
 I have a large room in the upper story, nicely furnished. 
 My two windows open on a broad balcony, shaded with thick 
 walls, arches, and pillars. I spend the greater part of the day 
 on this balcony, reading, smoking, and enjoying the air and 
 prospect. I spend several hours daily studying Hindustani. 
 A native teacher is with me for an hour every morning. I 
 am obliged to have three servants, who have almost as easy a 
 life as their master. This very agreeable but rather lazy life 
 that I lead will not last long, for I shall probably be sent 
 into the interior shortly. I shall not be sorry to leave Cal- 
 cutta, for I feel rather ashamed of drawing pay merely for 
 amusing myself. The time is not lost to myself, for I manage 
 to get through a great deal of reading and study. The climate 
 
90 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 at present suits me remarkably well. The heat is delightful to 
 me, it makes mere existence a pleasure. From what I hear I 
 imagine that in a month it will be rather too hot. On Sunday 
 I went to the cathedral and heard the Bishop preach. The 
 cathedral, like all the rooms here, was hung with punkahs or 
 fans, which were continually kept going by native servants. 
 The monotonous movement of these punkahs has a peculiarly 
 soporific effect, and half of the congregation were asleep. 
 Yesterday I went to the river-side and saw the burning of some 
 dead Hindus. It is done without any ceremony, and is not so 
 revolting a sight as one would imagine. Pariahs, or outcasts, 
 stir up the fire, and see that everything is properly burnt. 
 The body is placed on a heap of wood, about four feet high, and 
 then a little more wood on the top. In about half an hour or 
 an hour nothing is to be seen. The city of Calcutta, although 
 large and full of good comfortable houses, is not particularly 
 interesting, for all the buildings are very much alike, built of 
 brick and stucco, and painted white. The flat roofs, verandahs, 
 balconies, and large rooms make houses very pleasant to live in. 
 There is a large park, called " The Maidan," where people drive 
 about and ride in as great style as in Hyde Park. I already 
 know a great many people in Calcutta, and am going to dine 
 out three times this week. Yesterday I was astonished to meet 
 one of the young ladies I knew at the Dardanelles. Neither of 
 us knew that the other was going to Calcutta. I am living at 
 the General Hospital. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 1 
 
 I received my first batch of letters by the last mail, and was 
 delighted to find one from you and L. among them. Since I 
 received the letters, the distance which separates us does not 
 appear to me so great. When I was in the Crimea the feeling 
 of distance from home was stronger. I am so accustomed to 
 travelling now that I should think nothing of the journey back 
 again to England. I like India quite as well as I expected. 
 People complain of the heat, but I find it nothing more than 
 pleasant. I enjoy the evenings exceedingly whilst sitting on 
 the balcony looking at the palm-trees, and the curious birds 
 and the animals of the country. The crows here are very 
 queer-looking birds with long grey necks and wise faces. They 
 are exceedingly audacious, and often come popping into the 
 rooms. One perched on my bed this morning. They take a 
 particular pleasure in riding on the back of goats and cows, 
 who don't seem to mind them at all. The little court-yard of 
 
 1 By the mail, 22d April 1S59. 
 
HINDUS. 91 
 
 the hospital swarms with life, and all the different animals are 
 on as good terms as the London " happy family." The little 
 black babies are most delightful little creatures ; they are quite 
 as well-behaved as little puppy-dogs, and never cry except on 
 very strong provocation. They are carried about perfectly 
 naked, a cheval, cross-legs on the hips- of their mothers or 
 brothers, or left to roll about and amuse themselves on the 
 ground. The Hindu men here are exceedingly gentle and 
 harmless-looking. They remind one of antelopes or some timor- 
 ous animal of that species, and one is not surprised that a few 
 Englishmen should put hundreds of them to flight. They get 
 terribly knocked about by many of the Englishmen who have 
 arrived here since the mutiny. They bear it all meekly, don't 
 look, and I fancy don't feel, revengeful. I saw yesterday the 
 (charak) festival at which Hindus torture themselves by put- 
 ting hooks, etc., into their skin, and being swung round. The 
 ceremony is more absurd than horrible, for there is little or no 
 suffering. The two hooks are only through the skin of the back, 
 and the sensibility of this is previously deadened by pressure. 
 The weight of the body is supported not by the hooks, but by 
 a band which goes over the chest. Those that I saw were not 
 drunk, their faces did not give the least evidence of pain. 
 Whilst swinging in the. air they laughed and joked, kicked about 
 their legs, and threw down presents among the people. 
 
 I have just received an order to proceed to Hong-Kong to be 
 attached to a regiment of Sipahis stationed there. So you see 
 there is not much chance of getting to the Punjab yet. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER HENRY. 
 
 Calcutta, April 21st, 1859. 
 I was at Mr. Knowles's country-house the other day, and 
 stayed all night. The house is close to the river-side, and is 
 surrounded by grounds beautifully laid out, and planted with 
 all kinds of magnificent trees. There are several immense 
 banyan-trees (the tree, you know, which has pillars supporting 
 its heavy lateral branches) and one or two very large india- 
 rubber trees with beautiful dark glossy-green leaves. Mr. 
 Knowles and I got up at five A.M. next morning, and rode to 
 Barrackpore and back, a distance of about fifteen miles. We 
 galloped nearly the whole way, and the horses did not seem any- 
 thing the worse for it. The morning was delightfully cool and 
 fresh, and the scenery exceedingly beautiful, although the road 
 was perfectly flat. Every now and then we caught a magnificent 
 view of the fine broad reaches of the river through luxuriant 
 foliage, such as you do not see in Europe. On returning we 
 
92 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 put on our loose clothes and breakfasted under a tree by the 
 river-side. I am going off to China to-morrow or the next 
 day, and scarcely know whether I am glad or sorry to go. I 
 like India so much that I am sorry to leave it, but at the same 
 time I am delighted at the prospect of seeing Java, Penang, 
 and China. I fancy I shall not find the Chinese so pleasant 
 to look upon as the natives here. Most of the Chinamen that 
 I have seen, and there are a good many here, are exceedingly 
 ugly, and there is something to me particularly unpleasant and 
 insolent about their expression. The Indian men, women, and 
 children are nearly all good-looking, and exceedingly well 
 dressed. Some are not dressed at all, and yet look well. I am 
 getting on tolerably fast with Hindustani, and as I am to be 
 with a native regiment in China, I shall continue learning it 
 there. I shall give you my experience of the Chinamen when 
 I have seen them in their own country. People always appear 
 to most advantage in their own country. The half-caste here 
 are a very strange lot. A certain number of them are well- 
 made, strong, handsome, and honest ; but the majority of them 
 are thin, pale, cowardly, and deceitful. There seem to be two 
 classes of them quite the opposite of each other. They are 
 almost entirely out of society here. How strange the difference 
 in the treatment they receive here and in England must appear 
 to them. 
 
 I enclose you my portrait. For mother's sake I kept the 
 sword out of the picture. My uniform is not that at which we 
 appear at mess. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 "Thebes," Bay of Bengal, May 3d, 1859. 
 I left Calcutta on the morning of the 27th. Three steam- 
 boats started within a few minutes of each other, all filled with 
 opium. The " Thebes" is now behind the other two, but the 
 captain still hopes to make up. The steamboats which leave 
 Calcutta always run after the opium sales, always race to con- 
 vey information concerning the sale as early as possible to their 
 master-merchants at Hong-Kong. We had a delightful voyage 
 down the river. In England I have always heard the Hooghly 
 spoken of as such a poor river, but for my part I think it is the 
 finest river I have yet seen. It is broad and winding, and every 
 now and then in passing along, wide reaches like lakes open 
 out. It is true that the lands and banks round about are 
 perfectly level, but the flatness is completely relieved by mag- 
 nificent solitary trees, little lawns, and thickets. There are 
 also many picturesque little villages by the water's edge. It is 
 
BAY OF BENGAL. 93 
 
 a long journey from Calcutta to Hong-Kong, but it seems nothing 
 to me. I packed up my things in an hour, paid my servants, 
 and embarked. I wished my bearer to aceompany me, but his 
 religion would not allow him to cross the sea. He came with 
 me, however, to the boat, and directly he was beside the river 
 he washed himself and took some of the sacred water in his 
 mouth. Natives are continually washing in the Hooghly, men, 
 women, and children. There are most stringent rules against 
 Europeans bathing, on the grounds of decency, but natives here 
 are scarcely looked upon as human. Sailors think nothing 
 of murdering them, but that is not allowed at Calcutta. I hear 
 continually of frightful atrocities committed by the naval brigade 
 up country. Cooper's execution, which appeared so horrible to 
 us, is thought nothing of here (the natives not being looked 
 upon as human). In the upper provinces, where the natives are 
 a superior class of people, the feeling of the English towards 
 them may be different. I am merely speaking of Calcutta. I 
 am not sorry to leave Calcutta, for it is soon seen, and although 
 a pleasant enough place to live in, ceases to be interesting when 
 known. The people are fond of display, and ride and drive 
 about in splendid carriages in a place called "The Maidan," very 
 like Hyde Park and Eotten Eow. Every evening this drive is 
 crowded with carriages with beautiful but awfully lazy-looking 
 ladies. We have had a fine passage across the bay; so hot 
 that I slept every night on the boards of the deck in my shirt 
 and white trousers. We passed by the Andaman Islands, but 
 too far off to see them well. Several times we have passed 
 little solitary verdant islands in mid-ocean, uninhabited except- 
 ing by monkeys, who eat their cocoa-nuts undisturbed from 
 year to year. There is only one first-class passenger beside 
 myself. He is a Cockney who kept an old curiosity-shop in 
 Piccadilly, and is now on his way to collect curiosities in Japan. 
 There is a young German second-class passenger who has been 
 nearly everywhere (among other places, the interior of South 
 America) gaining a living by playing the accordion. He has 
 his wife and a little baby born in Calcutta with him. We shall 
 stay a few hours at Penang to-day, and in two days we shall 
 be at Singapore, where I intend posting this letter. 
 
 Straits of Malacca, near Singapore. 
 I must finish my letter in order to post it at Singapore. I 
 got on shore yesterday at Penang, and walked about the town 
 for an hour. It is an exceedingly pretty place. All the shops 
 are kept by Chinamen, and, in fact, the population seems chiefly 
 Chinese. There are a few Malays and a regiment or two of 
 
94 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Madras soldiers. The Chinese houses and shops are delightfully 
 neat and light, and very tastefully decorated. The little Chinese 
 boys looked very droll running about the streets ; many of them 
 had tails reaching almost to the ground. Penang is very 
 picturesquely situated. There are many high mountains on 
 the island, and also on the mainland opposite. The island 
 seems to me very fertile, and nutmegs, spices, and fruits of many 
 kinds, the productions of the island, abound in the bazaars. I 
 enjoyed feasting on pine-apples and mangos after my six days' 
 voyage. We had a magnificent thunderstorm the other night. 
 As many as sixty flashes of lightning in a minute I counted. 
 The rain came down in torrents, and the thunder-claps were 
 sudden and sharp, like the report of a cannon when you are 
 standing close to it. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Canton, June 2d, 1859, 
 70th Beg. Ben. Inf. 
 I am very glad to have been sent to China; it is very 
 amusing and interesting to see the Chinese. I have nice cool 
 quarters, and the weather is not hot enough to prevent one from 
 taking exercise. Living is very expensive in China, but as I 
 have money besides my pay, that does not much affect me. 
 Most things here cost two or three times as much as in India. 
 The Chinese at first behaved rather badly, and assassinated a 
 great number of Sepoys and English soldiers when they caught 
 them walking alone. The country is overrun by thieves and 
 robbers, who oppress the people very much, and commit all 
 kinds of enormities. Now that the people of Canton see that 
 they are protected from these robbers, they are disposed 
 to be very friendly and amiable towards us. They are most 
 anxious to learn anything that we can teach them, and are very 
 far from being an obstinate, sullen, unimprovable race, as they 
 have sometimes been called. Their industry and skill is aston- 
 ishing. The gardens in front of my window, from constant 
 care, irrigation, etc., are made to produce six crops annually. 
 There are shops in the town where you can buy patent locks 
 and complicated mathematical instruments, accurately copied 
 from English models. The whole country is either cultivated 
 or built upon, and the population is so great that many thou- 
 sands are obliged to live continually in boats on the river. 
 They are not a particularly religious people, but they are very 
 tolerant of all other religions, and are easily converted if they 
 think any advantage can be obtained. The Mussulman Sepoys 
 have made several proselytes since I came, and every now and 
 
TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 CHINESE. 95 
 
 then Chinamen are to be seen np to their middle in the tanks 
 getting baptised by Baptist missionaries. All Chinamen who 
 have got any money cause their children to be very carefully 
 educated. Filial duty and industry are the two virtues most 
 carefully insisted on, and the works of their two great authors, 
 Confucius and Mencius, are venerated in China as much or 
 more than the Bible is in England. I am inclined to imagine 
 that the Chinese at one time were a very great and powerful 
 nation, but that they are now much degenerated. The laws 
 and institutions seem perfect, and one would think admirably 
 suited for maintaining order and justice in the kingdom, but 
 practically they do not seem to answer, for there is much more 
 thieving and plundering going on here than in any other civil- 
 ised country. People are being continually executed for very 
 slight offences, but they seem not to care anything about it. A 
 man being carried in a basket to execution does not excite any 
 attention in the streets, the people are so much accustomed 
 to it. 
 
 In your letter you ask me to tell you all I can about the 
 Hindus, Mussulmans, etc. I have already told you something, 
 but as yet I have not had good opportunities of observing them. 
 When I get into the interior of India I will try and give you 
 a fuller account of them. The regiment I am with is partly 
 Mussulman and partly Hindu. The majority are Hindus, and 
 remarkably fine handsome men, from the neighbourhood of 
 Oude. At the commencement of the mutiny they were asked 
 to volunteer to do service in China, and were probably thus 
 prevented from joining the mutineers, although some of the 
 officers will not allow that they were at all disaffected. By 
 coming to China, i.e. crossing the sea, they have lost caste, and 
 have in consequence got over a great deal of their absurd 
 objection to do things which they used to think degrading to 
 them, but I am told that when they get back again to India they 
 will regain their caste by paying a few rupees at some temple, 
 and then they will resume all their old prejudices. The camp- 
 followers, of whom there are numbers, are of all religions and 
 castes. The different religions appear to me to have little to 
 do with the character of the people. The Mussulmans and 
 Christians that I have met with are not at all like European 
 Mussulmans and Christians. They are just like peculiar castes 
 of Hindus. Notwithstanding the hatred of idols that the 
 founder of their religion inculcated, the Mussulmans here are 
 
96 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 in the habit of paying money to have prayers said for them in 
 Hindu temples. 
 
 I see a good deal of the poorer class of Chinese, shop- 
 keepers and tradesmen, but the mandarins keep out of our 
 way. The people are disposed to be very friendly. They seem 
 particularly unprejudiced for Asiatics, and disposed to learn 
 anything or do anything that they think will advance their 
 interest. I fancy that they do not believe in, or care much 
 about, their religion, although they have a great number of 
 temples full of gilded and painted idols before which they 
 burn long sticks of somewhat the same composition as the 
 pastilles we sometimes burn in England. (These joss-sticks, as 
 they are called, are very convenient for lighting cigars. I keep 
 one continually lighted in my hut.) The burning of these 
 joss-sticks I believe is the only religious duty that they perform, 
 but I cannot say so positively. The most remarkable peculi- 
 arity of the Chinese is the respect and love they bear towards 
 their parents. After their death they almost worship them, 
 and have most superstitious ideas about their graves. The 
 Comprador (furnisher) of our mess since we came here has 
 buried his father three times, each time erecting a more costly 
 monument than the preceding one. The cemeteries are always 
 on the side of a mountain or hills, and most of the mountains 
 round Canton are covered with graves and monuments. There 
 is a small society of Mussulmans in Canton. A few days ago 
 I paid their mosque and minaret a visit. These are said to be 
 about 800 or 900 years old, and they certainly wear that 
 appearance. In several there are time-worn granite stones 
 about the mosque with Arabic inscriptions. The minaret is so 
 dilapidated that I had some difficulty in ascending it. I re- 
 marked among the Mussulman Chinese children who were 
 playing in the neighbourhood of the mosque, several without 
 the usual Chinese caste of feature, but with slightly prominent 
 noses and large eyes. Near to this mosque there is a very 
 ancient pagoda, which towers grandly to a great height. It is 
 elegantly but substantially built of brick, and has stood 
 probably 900 years. The Chinese building seems to be very 
 good; most of the houses are built of brick and tiled. Both the 
 tiles and brick are superior to those used in England. They 
 make use of lintels and pillars of granite, varying from ten to 
 twenty feet in length, in building their bridges and temples, and 
 for placing over their doors. The oldest houses in Canton have 
 their walls built of mud, which is cast into large square blocks, 
 and makes a good perpendicular well-squared wall, which 
 hardens in time and may last hundreds of years. I feel that 
 it is impossible by description to give you a good idea of the 
 
CHINA. 
 
 construction of the houses, but I will try and get some drawings, 
 and when I have an opportunity send them to you. The 
 Chinese have a good way of watering their gardens, which I 
 think might be advantageously adopted at Derwent Bank. 
 They water with two pails at the same time. These two pails 
 are very large, but are easily carried, because balanced on one 
 shoulder with a piece of bamboo ; they are emptied simul- 
 taneously, so as to maintain the balance. The water is made to 
 come from the spout in a fine thin broad film by a very simple 
 arrangement. The end of the spout is closed, but on its upper 
 surface, close to the end, a notch is cut for the water to rush 
 out at. 
 
 I lead a very quiet sort of life here. There are no ladies, 
 consequently there is little quarrelling among the officers. 
 They are quite tamed down by the heat, fevers, etc., and a 
 good many of them do nothing all day long but yawn and 
 smoke cheroots. Others are sufficiently industrious and ener- 
 getic. I have a great deal of time to myself, which I spend in 
 studying German and Hindustani, and in reading books on 
 China and Hindustan. I find the Chinese language rather 
 too difficult to learn with pleasure, and as we shall probably be 
 only a short time here, I think it scarcely worth my while 
 seriously to attempt it ; by degrees, however, I may learn 
 something of it. For the last week rain has been pouring 
 down in torrents, and in consequence the air is much cooled, 
 and the country looks fresh and green, but when the sun shines 
 one feels as if in a vapour-bath. I like China very well, but 
 constantly feel desolate at being so far from every one who 
 cares about me. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Canton, June 1859. 
 I have had a very pleasant voyage from Calcutta to Hong- 
 KoDg in sixteen days. In the Bay of Bengal it was exceedingly 
 hot, but I kept on deck night and day, and was very comfortable. 
 On this side of Singapore, however, it was once actually rather 
 cool. We spent a day and a night at Singapore, and it was a 
 great treat to me to get a walk on shore and a fresh- water 
 bath. Singapore is a perfect little paradise. The harbour is 
 surrounded by numerous little islands covered with cocoa-nuts, 
 palms, nutmegs, plantains, etc., richly green, and growing in 
 the sea at high-water. The town reminded me somewhat of 
 Venice ; the sea makes inroads and canals which intersect the 
 city, and these are covered with Chinese boats busily plying 
 about in all directions. A large part of the Chinese population 
 live entirely on the water. The women there as well as here 
 
 G 
 
98 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 help their husbands to pull, and one often sees them standing 
 like Venetian gondoliers, and working the boat along. Their 
 back-and-forward motion at the same time serves to rock to 
 sleep a little baby strapped to their back. Their dress is neat 
 and clean, perhaps not so graceful, but more decent than that 
 of the Hindustani women. There is a wonderful amount of 
 activity and life among the Chinese ; the contrast between 
 them and the Indians struck me most forcibly. The Indian 
 rarely laughs, and I think never jokes. The Chinaman is full 
 of fun and jokes. The Chinaman has not the politeness of the 
 Indian, he is continually showing the Europeans with whom 
 he deals that he looks upon them as barbarians, and despises 
 them. I was a day at Hong-Kong, which time I spent in calling 
 on various friends whose acquaintance I had made on my 
 voyage to Calcutta. Early in the morning I got on board a 
 Peninsular and Oriental Company's boat, and was at Canton 
 the same evening. The body of old Yep or Yeh came up in 
 the same steamboat with me. He died rather mysteriously at 
 Calcutta just before I left. A young interpreter had charge of 
 the body, and told me a great deal about the habits of the old 
 man. He seems to have been remarkably clever and intelli- 
 gent. The interpreter said he was an awful liar, and had many 
 disgusting vices. He told the interpreter that he was made 
 Commissioner of Canton on account of a treatise which he had 
 written on a passage in Confucius, "Dew falls in autumn." 
 On this passage he succeeded in establishing a new system of 
 taxation, which was highly approved of by the Chinese 
 Emperor. I cannot vouch for the truth of all this, but still I 
 suspect it is tolerably correct. We had a very pleasant journey 
 up the river. The scenery is fine, diversified with mountains, 
 valleys, islands, and highly-cultivated plains. The river is 
 crowded with junks, flower-boats, and craft of all kinds. The 
 city of Canton is very much destroyed, but still one can form a 
 very good idea of what it has been. During the last week I 
 have been much shifted about, and have been living in temples 
 and all sorts of queer buildings, curiously decorated with paint- 
 ings, china-work, and remarkable-looking gilded gods. Now I am 
 finally attached to the 70th Bengal Infantry, and am quartered 
 in a little hut on the wall of Canton. From my window I have 
 a fine view of the high White Cloud mountains ; it is the 
 healthiest and most windy part of Canton. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Canton, July 2d, 1859. 
 Allie said that mother was going to send me a box of clothes 
 a few books would be more acceptable. The Chinese are 
 
CHINA. 
 
 excellent tailors ; they make my uniform, which I am obliged 
 to wear out of doors. In the house I wear Chinese clothes, 
 which are by far the most comfortable and convenient ever 
 invented. I wish I had an opportunity of sending you a suit. 
 If you do send me a parcel, it had better be addressed to 
 Calcutta, for my stay here is very uncertain. I am still living 
 in the same sort of way as when I wrote to you last. Black 
 men are living all round about me in huts and small houses. 
 A Sipahi looks after my house and clothes, and a Chinese boy 
 with shaven head and pigtail waits upon me at mess. Every 
 morning the drums and fifes begin to play at five o'clock. 
 This of course wakens me, and I get up and watch the rising 
 sun while taking my coffee and cheroot. Till breakfast-time I 
 study Hindustani, read and visit the hospital. Sometimes I 
 take a walk into the city, but this is often very unpleasant in 
 the early morning on account of the buckets of poo-poo which 
 are generally at that time carried out to fertilise the fields. 
 Poo-poo is a Chinese word, so expressive that I think it un- 
 necessary to give you a translation. The Sipahis (Hindus) 
 have a great horror of these buckets. I have seen an advancing 
 column at review completely broken by the sudden upsetting 
 of one of them. A fort composed of these instead of gabions 
 would most effectually repulse all Sipahis. I made an excur- 
 sion the other day to Whampoa, a town about ten miles down 
 the river. I dined on board a man-of-war steamer, and after 
 dinner had a delightful sail with some of the officers. The 
 river at Whampoa is composed of a great number of channels 
 separated by little hilly granite islands. The scenery is most 
 beautiful, and as we approached the steamer the sunset was 
 magnificent, reflecting a rich purple colour in the water, through 
 which we were slowly and quietly gliding. Between Canton 
 and Whampoa the banks of the river are low ; in some places 
 the river is somewhat above the overflown rice-fields, being 
 separated from them by low embankments planted with rows 
 of plantains, peaches, and lichens. The last of these is a de- 
 licious fruit, very abundant in China. The trees bear each four 
 or five crops annually. The plantains can be made to bear fruit 
 at any time of the year simply by cutting them down to the 
 ground four months before the time the fruit is wanted. They 
 always grow up and bear fruit in four months. This kind of 
 husbandry would suit the Bow-begum 1 nicely. There is some 
 talk of this regiment being sent to Aden, but I am afraid that 
 it is not true. If I am sent there it will suit us splendidly for 
 our projected excursion. I should only be a fortnight's distance 
 from England. I am always longing to see you all again. 
 
 1 Our sister Isabella. 
 
100 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Mother is always in my thoughts. I am sorry I have no portrait 
 of her. Could you get one done on paper, and send it me in a 
 letter? 
 
 P.S. I shall write to mother next mail, but she must con- 
 sider other letters that I send home as equally intended for her. 
 Give kind messages from me to John, George, and their families. 
 Wilhelmina's portrait decorates the wall of my hut. I enclose 
 you a drawing of Chinese tracery used for window, brickwork, 
 gratings, etc. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Canton, July 21st, 1859. 
 I have scarcely time to write you a letter, but I must send 
 you a few lines. The post leaves unexpectedly to-day, and I 
 have only three-quarters of an hour to write my letter, and 
 carry it to the post, which is a mile from here. We have just 
 heard bad news from Pekin. The ambassador has been fired 
 upon, 400 of his men killed and wounded, and several gunboats 
 destroyed. The war in China has therefore recommenced. 
 Fresh troops have been sent for from India, and I shall no doubt 
 remain in China a year or two longer. We are expecting that 
 our small force here will be shortly attacked, but I do not think 
 the Chinese here have any chance of success. It is sad to think 
 of the terrible slaughter of Chinese that must follow their out- 
 rage on our ambassador. As in all wars, the poor innocent 
 people suffer most, whilst the rulers, who by their stupidity 
 have brought on the war, escape. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 July 31s*, 1859. 
 I have received by the last mail letters from William and 
 Allie, announcing the death of our old friend Mr. Pow. We 
 have all lost a sincere friend, and the thought that I shall never 
 see the good kind man again is very depressing to me. I felt 
 on leaving England that I was bidding him a final farewell, and 
 with that feeling wrote him a letter from London ; but still I 
 did not realise the loss so vividly as I do now. Mother must 
 feel it very much, and Etal Villa must be very different now 
 that he is no longer there. I lead a quiet solitary life here, and 
 I fancy think more about you all than if I were actually living 
 with you, and I sympathise very fully with all your sorrows. 
 The Sipahis are very healthy, as a rule, and at present I have 
 only ten patients in a hospital not fifty yards from my hut. 
 You may imagine how much time I have to myself. I am 
 contented with my life ; there is much to interest me, and the 
 
HONG-KONG. ' 101 
 
 scenery is beautiful, but I feel that I am too far from home. I 
 have nothing to annoy me in the way of practice, and the 
 officers of the regiment seem all glad to have me with them. 
 You have no doubt read of the disaster at Pekin. It affects us 
 considerably, and will probably detain us a year or two longer 
 in China, as nothing more will be done this year unless the 
 French come in force from Cochin-China. I hope I may go 
 with the next expedition to Pekin, but I am afraid the Sipahis 
 will not be sent, as they suffer so much by the sea-voyage. 
 Their religion does not allow them to cook at sea, and they con- 
 sequently live entirely on uncooked rice, and a grain like dried 
 peas. When they get ashore after a fortnight's voyage they 
 are like skeletons, and perfectly helpless. I do not think that 
 the feeling of the Indians towards Europeans is at all altered 
 by the mutiny. The charm which old General Benson used to 
 talk of is simply fear, and they dread us as much now, if not 
 more, than formerly. They have always been slaves governed 
 by tyrants, and I fancy they will always continue to be so. 
 They have many good qualities, but are quite wanting in bold- 
 ness and determination. easily excited, and, like women, 
 capable of doing most horrible deeds when their passions are 
 roused. I have just received orders to proceed and take charge 
 of the hospital at Stanley, Hong-Kong, and as I have very little 
 time to pack up my things and prepare for my journey, I must 
 conclude this note and write you more fully another time. I 
 enclose two pairs of Chinese slippers for Allie. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Stanley, September. 
 My life is very unvaried and solitary here, and as I have no 
 friends to talk to you about, have already described the place 
 and spoken of the character of the people, I find some difficulty 
 in getting material to fill up a letter. It seems superfluous to 
 send loving messages so far across the seas. You know well 
 how I love you, and may feel sure that my solitary life here 
 intensifies my affection for you by giving me so much time for 
 thinking of the love you have felt and shown to me from my 
 birth. I know you would feel unhappy if I did not send a 
 letter to some of you by every mail, and therefore I have care- 
 fully done so. . . . This short note had better be allowed to 
 wear itself out along with the old vinaigrette, pencil-case, etc., 
 in the depths of the old pocket so familiar to me. 
 
102 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Stanley Hospital, August 27th, 1859. 
 ... You are mistaken in thinking me unfortunate in being 
 sent to China. It has always been my wish to see as much of 
 the world as possible ; and now you see I am getting it gratified, 
 and, besides, I am better off here than if I were in India. I 
 have a large hospital entirely to myself, for there is no other 
 doctor here, excepting a native, who executes my orders. I 
 assure you this kind of practice suits me much better than 
 private practice in England. I am far removed from that wicked 
 place (as you call it) Hong-Kong, or more properly Victoria, 
 which is the only part of the island inhabited by English. 
 There are about 1000 Chinese huddled up together in a small 
 village here by the sea-side, but the greater part of the island is 
 uninhabited and uncultivated not because it is so very barren, 
 but because the Chinese as a rule only cultivate very fertile 
 flat land. The hills are generally made use of for burying the 
 dead, and the spots are chosen which command the finest views. 
 The village of Chuckchu, called by the English Stanley, is 
 exactly like all the Chinese villages I have seen. They all 
 consist of one narrow flagged street, with others running at right 
 angles from it. The houses have generally only one story, and 
 are all alike, but the street walls of adjacent houses are never 
 in the same line, on account of some superstition. The temples 
 or joss-houses are generally outside the villages. Chuckchu 
 stretches along the sea-beach, and the waves absolutely wash 
 the foundations of the houses. There are two very pretty joss- 
 houses built among the rocks by the sea at some distance from 
 the village, which, seen from the exterior, are very picturesque 
 objects, but they are full of ugly gods and all sorts of rubbish 
 put there by the villagers as votive offerings. Generally, on a 
 sort of altar, one finds a few cups of tea, spirit, and edibles put 
 there for Buddha, but generally eaten by the priest. The 
 villagers and common people are very superstitious. They are 
 always talking about devils and ghosts, and make most horrible 
 noises with drums and gongs to frighten them off. In remote 
 villages the children really think that we are devils, and directly 
 they see us run screaming away. This is no doubt the effect 
 of their superstitious education, and soon wears off when they 
 become acquainted with us. It will perhaps amuse you to hear 
 what sort of a life I lead here. I have a little bungalow to 
 myself on the top of a hill. From the window on each side I 
 have magnificent views of mountains, islands, and sea. There 
 are two largish rooms, one which I use as a dining-room, and 
 
HONG-KONG. 103 
 
 the other as a study and for my bed during the day, and on 
 stormy nights. Generally I reverse the European order of 
 things, and use my house only in the day-time. Besides these 
 two rooms, I have a bath-room and servants' rooms. A broad 
 verandah nearly surrounds the house ; the kitchen, stables, etc., 
 are outhouses detached, but only a few yards distant. In the 
 way of servants, I have a Chinese boy and cook, and a few 
 Sipahis to look after my rooms and go messages. The Sipahis 
 I employ rather for their good than for my own. They have 
 nothing besides to do, and they like to wait upon me, so I con- 
 sent to be waited upon. I do not give myself up entirely to 
 laziness, as you were afraid I should do, but take plenty of 
 exercise swimming, walking, etc. While in the house, how- 
 ever, I fully appreciate the luxury of being waited upon. If I 
 had a wife with me to talk to, and enjoy life along with me, I 
 should consider myself among the most fortunate of men. As it 
 is, life often is dreary, and being always with Chinamen and 
 Indians is almost the same as living in a desert island. 
 
 Sept. 11th. The weather of late has been tremendously 
 stormy, and I have often feared that my little house was coming 
 down. One typhoon carried away part of my roof. At these 
 times of the year the Chinese Sea is very dangerous. The 
 steamboat in which I came from Calcutta went down the other 
 day, and among others the' captain, a very nice man, was lost. 
 His wife and family are in the Isle of Man, and he was 
 expecting to realise a fortune shortly, and to return to them. 
 
 It is reported that troops from England are to be here in 
 February, and in that case we shall be sent to India, for the 
 Sipahis do not bear this climate well. The climate of Hong- . 
 Kong seems to have a very bad effect on the health of most 
 people. Persons rarely stay here more than five years ; many 
 die, and the most look pale and sickly. It suits me, however, 
 remarkably well. I am as well now as ever I was in my life. 
 After I had been at Canton a month, I had fever and became 
 very thin, but since I came here I have got strong and healthy. 
 The sea-bathing, I fancy, has a great deal to do with this. You 
 people who live in cold climates can have no idea of the luxury 
 of bathing and washing in the tropics. It is a misfortune that 
 on account of the sun we cannot bathe in the day-time. I 
 always bathe before sunrise and after sunset. The sun, even 
 immediately it rises, has tremendous power at this time of the 
 year. I am now very careful not to expose myself unnecessarily, 
 for I believe that my slight fever at Canton arose from my 
 exertions in catching a very beautiful butterfly when the sun 
 was straight over my head. 
 
 I am very desirous of going to Japan while I am in this 
 
104 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 neighbourhood, and am in hopes that if I stay here five or six 
 months more I shall be able to do so. At present there is no 
 one to take my place, so there is no means of obtaining leave. 
 None of the English army doctors can speak Hindustani. I am 
 glad to hear that you find my letters interesting, for I considered 
 they were rather dull productions. You never speak of Fanny, 
 Wag, and Eomulus, 1 in your letters. It is pleasant to hear 
 about everything in any way connected with home. I have 
 two little Chinese dogs, one black and one white, called respec- 
 tively Quei and Chou, who are amusing companions to me. 
 
 P.S. I should like the Revue des Deux Mondes sent to me 
 by post. Will you order it of Williams and Norgate ? Eead 
 it yourself and then send it to me. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Stanley Hospital, Oct. ISth, 1859. 
 
 You ask me in your letter if I think that the weakness of the 
 Chinese Government has been caused by the English making it 
 contemptible in the eyes of the people. This may possibly be 
 accelerating its downfall, but independently it has for some long 
 time been declining, and appears to be doomed. I have a sus- 
 picion that the lying and thieving that goes on everywhere in 
 high quarters may be the result of choosing merely very clever 
 men for judges and high official posts throughout the land. 
 The chief qualification, and what often decides the result of a 
 competitive examination, is good handwriting, and consequently 
 no end of pains is spent in attaining perfection in this. Their 
 religion, like the old Brahma religion of India, was originally 
 excellent, but, like the Indian religion, has become of none effect 
 obscured and almost drowned in superstition and absurd 
 ceremonies. 
 
 The Chinese have one great fault, and that is their exclusiv- 
 ism and contempt of foreigners. This feeling, which is fostered 
 and encouraged by the Government, is the cause of the English 
 thinking much worse of the Chinese than they deserve, for 
 foreigners are treated most unjustly by them, and Chinese who 
 are connected in any way with the " foreign devils," as they call 
 us, are treated equally badly, and are looked upon as traitors. 
 The consequence is that most of the English out here only 
 remark this injustice, and don't care to observe the manner in 
 which the Chinese deal with each other. If they extended their 
 observations further they would form a better opinion of Chinese 
 legislation and manners. I have been much pleased by watching 
 
 1 The pony and dogs at Derwent Bank. 
 
CHINESE. 105 
 
 ie behaviour of the poorer classes towards each other. On the 
 river at Canton, which is crowded with boats of all descriptions, 
 continually jostling each other, one sees feeble old women and 
 children pulling about, and everywhere, notwithstanding the 
 bustle, meeting with the greatest courtesy and consideration. I 
 have scarcely seen any quarrelling, and that little never extended 
 beyond words. Since I came to China I have never seen one 
 man strike another. I do not believe there is any country in 
 the world where the ties of relationship are so strong, where 
 there is so much paternal, filial, and brotherly affection. Much 
 is done, and with a certain amount of success, to make this 
 family feeling, as it were, extend throughout the whole empire, 
 and so to bind all the people together into one great family, of 
 which the Emperor is the head or father. Probably if the 
 Emperor were a pure Chinaman, and not a Tartar, this idea 
 would be more realised than it is at present. 
 
 With respect to intercourse with the English, I am disposed 
 to think that, notwithstanding the bad conduct of some of our 
 countrymen, they are beginning to respect us more than formerly, 
 and as they get to know more of us this respect will increase. 
 
 The mass of the people have been kept in the dark, or rather 
 misled regarding us. Lying accounts of us and our actions have 
 always been published, and any more enlightened Chinaman 
 venturing to question the truth of these has been looked upon 
 as a traitor. Books on Vaccination and Astronomy, published 
 in Chinese, have been immediately secured and republished by 
 Chinese governors without acknowledgment, in order to keep 
 people in the dark as to the attainments of the English, and to 
 extend their own reputation. The Emperor in his edicts has 
 been in the habit of calling us devils, and saying that it would 
 be absurd to administer justice to us in the same way as to 
 Chinamen. Notwithstanding the way in which they have been 
 incited to behave badly towards us, many Chinamen have been 
 most particular in keeping their word, and have often acted 
 most honourably. Eeligion is in almost the same condition as 
 in Italy. Perhaps the common people may be a little more 
 superstitious here. The Buddhists here have a Queen of Heaven, 
 a species of Trinity, say their prayers in an unknown language, 
 count them with beads, tinkle bells, go through numberless 
 genuflexions ; the priests practise celibacy ; many women 
 become nuns, and live in convents. Indulgences are granted 
 for money and meritorious acts, and a purgatory is anticipated 
 after death. The better educated despise all this, and simply 
 revere Confucius, who confessed that he knew very little about 
 the gods or a future life ; but recommended men " to do to others 
 as they would be done by," to reverence their parents and 
 
106 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 governors, to look with respect on learned men and farmers, and 
 to tolerate manufacturers and merchants. The mere possession 
 of money does not command so much respect as in other 
 countries. The missionaries here, I am sorry to say, are not 
 prepossessing. I often see them riding about in Hong-Kong, 
 carried in chairs by coolies. The Roman Catholic missionaries 
 are bolder and more energetic. Some of the Protestants are, 
 I believe, most industrious, sincere, energetic men, but their 
 labour is lost. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Stanley, Nov. 10th, 1859. 
 
 Sometimes I am afraid that you may find inconsistency in 
 my letters when I speak of the Chinese and people about me. 
 This arises partly from my opinions becoming modified as I 
 become better acquainted with the people. Sometimes perhaps 
 the inconsistency is only apparent, and might be made clear by 
 a fuller explanation, which would be tedious in a letter. We 
 have just received news from England via Bombay. The Peiho 
 disaster seems to be causing some excitement, and I suppose 
 now troops will certainly be sent to march on Pekin. I am 
 satisfied now to stay in China to see the end of the war, although 
 I am sorry that England is in such a fix that she is almost 
 obliged to undertake the war. I see that the Times says the 
 war must be pursued vigorously for the " interests of commerce 
 and humanity." No doubt the interests of Jardine, Dent, and 
 other rich Chinese merchants will be much promoted, but I 
 cannot see how the interests of humanity will be furthered by 
 causing anarchy in an empire where 300,000,000 enjoy at 
 present, in tolerable security, the fruit of their labour. Thousands 
 of innocent people will be killed before we reach Pekin, and 
 there will be devastation and misery of families to a terrible 
 extent. There is no knowing what may be the result of taking 
 Pekin. A bad, though the best of Asiatic governments, may 
 be destroyed thereby, and China may become another turbulent 
 Hindustan, infested by robber chiefs. All that we shall gain 
 by taking Pekin will be a quantity of booty for our soldiers, 
 and a treaty which will be broken as soon as the army leaves 
 China. The expenses of the war will be for ourselves, for the 
 Chinese neither can nor will pay. I am tolerably well now, 
 and feel that I have got safely through my first year, for the 
 weather is quite cold, and at night I am obliged to use blankets. 
 We shall not now have any rain, damp, or heat for five or six 
 months. At present the climate is delicious, like September in 
 England. You see I am still at Stanley, and am hoping that 
 
HONG-KONG. 107 
 
 the hospital may not be broken up for some time yet. I felt 
 heartily sick of the East about a week ago, when I was passing 
 a sleepless night with no one to keep me company. How I 
 longed to be at home, and how I thought continually of Shields, 
 Derwent Bank, and you all. With health all my determination 
 has come back again ; I must try India before I return. 
 
 Nov. ISth. I was hoping to have seen some letters from you 
 before finishing this, but the mail, from some reason or other, 
 has not yet arrived, and the homeward-bound mail is going off. 
 Two European regiments have just arrived from India, and I 
 am afraid my patients will be turned out to make room for 
 them, and I shall be sent back again either to Canton or 
 Hong-Kong. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Stanley Hospital, Nov. 27th, 1859. 
 
 I am still at Stanley, and possibly may remain until the 
 expedition starts for the north, which it will not do probably 
 before the end of February. The climate of Pekin is excessively 
 cold during winter, much too severe for campaigning. Lord 
 Clyde has written from India to recommend that the native 
 regiments be sent. Of course I shall be glad to go, but I doubt 
 the prudence of sending native troops, for while on board of 
 ship the Hindus are forbidden by their religion to eat any 
 cooked food. They eat nothing but uncooked rice and peas, 
 and in consequence some die, and the rest when they arrive at 
 their destination are so thin and feeble that it is a long time 
 before they are fit for duty. It takes a long time for a Hindu 
 to recover his health, for they eat nothing but vegetables, and 
 make but one meal in, the twenty-four hours. Their religion 
 interferes very much with my treatment of them when they are 
 sick. Many of them, even when dying, will persist in cooking 
 for themselves, and this with them is a very long process. 
 In the cold weather they strip themselves almost naked, then 
 wash, and without drying or putting on their clothes, set to 
 work to make a fireplace of clay, which must be made afresh 
 every day. You may imagine of how little use it is to give 
 medicines to patients of this sort. They are not all so 
 unmanageable. I have induced some of them, by giving extras 
 such as sugar and sago, to take an extra meal. These take 
 wine, under the name of the red medicine. The carefulness 
 and economy of the Hindus surpass anything I ever heard of. 
 They starve themselves for the sake of saving, and delight in 
 continually talking to each other of their dollars. I have a 
 very honest, simple Hindu to look after my things. He has my 
 
108 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 keys in his possession, and keeps everything clean and in the 
 most perfect order, keeping a sharp look-out 'that the Chinese 
 boys and other people coming about steal nothing. His especial 
 delight is polishing my sword and gun, that being connected 
 with his own profession. He is a Sipahi. The lower castes 
 are much given to drinking and other vices of Europeans. Lest 
 you should be anxious about my health I will tell you exactly 
 how I am. For the last two months I have had attacks of 
 remittent fever every fortnight at regular intervals, but they 
 have been becoming each time less severe, and it is now a 
 fortnight since I had my last attack, and I have only a slight 
 feeling of illness with headache, which makes me think I have 
 got over the fever. 1 The weather is now occasionally quite 
 cold, and there will be no more hot weather for months. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Hong-Kong, Dec. 29th. 
 
 The Free Press and Mr. Attwood's speech arrived all safe. 
 Certainly opinions about the Chinese are very contradictory, 
 but assuredly no one who has studied our dealings with the 
 Chinese can come to any other conclusion than that we have 
 acted disgracefully throughout, and if anything worse than the 
 Chinese, who are not altogether without blame, but they always 
 have the excuse that they warned us to keep off them, and never 
 wished to have any dealings with us. At one time, there can be 
 no doubt, the Chinese were a very grand nation. Not all the 
 trickery, lying, and degeneracy, together with the bad govern- 
 ment of modern times, can annihilate the good works of the 
 ancients. The good foundation laid by these still holds together 
 the vast empire. But there is no doubt that everything is 
 degenerating. They cannot now make the porcelain, nor colour 
 it, as they did formerly. The absurdities of Buddhism have 
 very much taken the place of the good moral practical religion 
 of Confucius and Mencius. Still there is hope for them, for 
 they practically acknowledge how they have fallen by the value 
 they set upon old works of art, and the immense respect they 
 pay to their ancient authors. The common people about here 
 are much given to lying and deceit in their dealings with us, 
 and although this cannot be carried on to the same extent as in 
 their dealings with each other, still I believe in honesty and 
 straightforwardness they are much inferior to English peasantry. 
 
 1 How lightly he tells of these wasting fevers ! How sick and lonely he 
 must have felt in that hospital, without a single European near him, he that 
 was so loved and longed for at home ! 
 
109 
 
 But China is an immense country, and it does not do to judge 
 of the whole by what one sees in the south, any more than it 
 would do to judge of Europe by what one sees of Greece. 
 I should like you to give Mr. Pow's legacy to me to whatever 
 charity or public object in Shields you think most worthy, or to 
 
 the encouragement of art. 
 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Stanley, Dec. 7th, 1859. 
 
 I am much pleased with the portrait of Wag. He seems to 
 have aged a great deal since I saw him last, but this may arise 
 perhaps from the photograph rendering his yellow and tan 
 whiter than they really are. I have exactly the same feeling 
 as yourself about writing what has to be read three months 
 afterwards, and that I am at such a distance from home, that 
 as far as concerns my friends I might as well be dead, but still 
 I have the consoling reflection (which buoys me up) that it 
 cannot last long, that sooner or later I shall return to India, 
 and that there it will only require a fortnight to send a com- 
 munication from one to the other. Within a few years perhaps 
 communication may be much more rapid. 
 
 I should enjoy being along with my friends, English society 
 and comforts, much more perhaps than living this solitary life ; 
 but still when I am free from fever I lead a tolerably happy 
 sort of life, and have the satisfaction of feeling that I work for 
 my pay, and in a humble way am of some use to the world. 
 At present there is no one in China to take my place here, so 
 that if I applied to return I should not get leave for a month 
 or two at least. Besides, now that I am in China, I think it 
 would be a pity to sacrifice the chance of seeing Pekin, and. 
 perhaps other places. From what I hear I shall like India as 
 a residence better than China. Here there are no good horses 
 or roads, and no plains to ride over. The narrow paths are all 
 flagged, slippery, and only fit for foot-passengers. It is also 
 very unpleasant to be obliged to carry a revolver, and to be 
 continually on the look-out for Chinamen coming to chop off 
 your head, which they do as a pure matter of business, without 
 any revengeful feeling, but merely for the sake of the reward 
 offered by the mandarins. 
 
 I find plenty to occupy me. I have ninety patients in 
 hospital, and these, with reports, official letters, etc., take up a 
 good deal of time. The rest of my time I spend in studying 
 Hindustani, and in translating a German book. The weather 
 occasionally feels very cold now, although the thermometer has 
 
110 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 not as yet been below 5 7. I keep a fire burning, and have two 
 blankets over me at night. 
 
 Dec. 12th. I am just going to walk to Victoria where I have 
 to attend a court-martial, and where I shall put this letter in 
 the post. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Dec. 27th. 
 I received a letter from mother by the last mail. The sight 
 of her dear handwriting was a great delight to me in this 
 remote solitary place. You can scarcely imagine with how 
 great a longing I look forward to the arrival of the mails. You 
 are a capital correspondent ; continue to write at least once a 
 month, and remember that a short letter is better than none at 
 all. Eemember to give my love to mother, Isabella, and all the 
 children. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Stanley, Dec. 27th, 1859. 
 
 It is to be hoped that our difference with China will be 
 arranged soon, and therefore the letter of introduction to Sir 
 Hope Grant will arrive too late. But letters of introduction are 
 of little use here ; one easily becomes acquainted with whom- 
 soever one wishes, and in the course of conversation one easily 
 finds out about mutual acquaintances. Many of the officers are 
 expecting that we shall all be sent to India as soon as the 
 Sikhs arrive, but I doubt that. Both officers and men are 
 anxious to return ; the men especially, because many of them 
 are uncertain as to what has become of their wives, children, 
 and property during the time of the mutiny. Probably many 
 on returning will find all gone a terrible prospect, which you 
 people in England can scarcely realise. 
 
 The little village of Chechii here has been in a state of great 
 excitement, and very gay for the last few days.. A large theatre 
 has been erected with bamboos and matting close to the 
 principal joss-house, and a company of actors 100 strong, 
 has been performing to the great delight of the inhabitants 
 and of visitors who have come from neighbouring villages 
 and islands. The performances have been kept up continually 
 from morning till late at night, only allowing a short interval 
 for dinner. I of course went once or twice to see what sort of 
 performance it was. The scenery was rude and very simple, 
 after the nature of the by-play in the Midsummer Night's 
 
Dream. Chairs, tables, etc., were made to represent doors, 
 walls, etc. ; their intention being intimated to the public by 
 notices stuck upon them. The pieces performed were some- 
 thing like operas ; they seemed to me to be in verse, and were 
 sung in a sort of way with a clanging brassy (I cannot say 
 musical) accompaniment, and every now and then a letting off 
 of gunpowder crackers. The pieces that I saw seemed to be 
 historical, for the magnificent satin and embroidered costumes 
 of some of the actors clearly showed that they were taking the 
 part of Emperors, judges, and high dignitaries, and these were 
 followed often by long trains of soldiers and standard-bearers. 
 Occasionally there were rights and battles, and these oppor- 
 tunities were taken for showing the acrobatic skill of the actors. 
 I found the performance rather tedious, but the Chinese specta- 
 tors seemed highly interested and delighted. They could not 
 understand what was said, for the actors spoke in the Mandarin 
 dialect, which is quite distinct ; occasionally, however, a few 
 words of explanation were given in the regular tongue, and 
 sometimes a joke, which set the house into ecstasies of delight. 
 The theatre was arranged somewhat like an English one, with 
 a raised stage, pit, and gallery on each side right for women 
 and left for men. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Hong-Kong, Jan. 31st, 1860. 
 In my letter by the last mail I said that I would write next 
 time to you, so I now set to work to perform my promise. In 
 writing all my letters to William, however, I have felt that I 
 was at the same time writing to you, and that you would read 
 them with as much pleasure as he. The English mail has not 
 yet arrived, so that I have had no news from home since I last 
 wrote. I have been at Hong-Kong with the 47th regiment 
 B. N. I. for a fortnight. I like my quarters very well. All the 
 officers live together in barracks, and from morning till evening 
 are continually playing, laughing, and talking. I lead a very 
 different life from my quiet one at Stanley. The change is 
 rather pleasant, and does me good. I have medical charge of 
 the 47th and of a portion of the 65th regiment, i.e. of all the 
 black troops at Hong-Kong. There are about twelve officers, 
 whom I like very well. We hear that the whole of the Bengal 
 brigade is going back to India in about a fortnight. It is to be 
 relieved by the troops from Bombay. Thus I expect to be back 
 again at Calcutta about the end of February. I would much 
 rather stay in China a little longer, but shall be obliged to 
 return with my regiment. If the Sikhs arrive before the 
 
112 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Bombay regiments, I shall try to exchange with some one so 
 as to try to accompany the Sikhs to Pekin, but I scarcely hope 
 to be able to do this. You had better address my letters now 
 to Calcutta, but at the same time send a short note to Hong- 
 Kong to let me know that you are all going on well, in case I 
 should still be here. The weather here is exceedingly changeable 
 just now. Sometimes it is so warm at night that I sleep with- 
 out clothes ; at other times it is so cold that we sit comfortably 
 warming ourselves over the tire. The sun is always very 
 powerful. I enjoy being able to take plenty of exercise, row- 
 ing about the harbour, which is very picturesque and beautiful, 
 surrounded on all sides by high rugged mountains, and full of 
 magnificent English ships and curious Chinese junks. 
 
 TOH. 
 
 Hong-Kong, March 15th, 1860. 
 We are still in a state of uncertainty here, but there is no 
 doubt but we shall be off shortly, for the regiment is in orders 
 to go to a station about twenty miles from Benares. The whole 
 of the Chinese Bengal brigade has to be stationed in that 
 neighbourhood, so I shall feel quite at home when I get back 
 to India. They say that it is an excellent station, a beautiful 
 country, full of game of all sorts. Send me a gun when you 
 have any ships going to Calcutta. Ships full of troops are 
 arriving daily, and Hong-Kong is now full of soldiers. Sir Hope 
 Grant arrived by this mail, and the Erench Commander-in-chief 
 by the last. Every one thinks that the Chinese will fight, and 
 no doubt there will be terrible slaughter, and I am afraid for 
 no good result. A coolie corps is being organised at Hong-Kong. 
 Major Temple, a Madras officer belonging to our mess, is at the 
 head of it. They will shortly have about 10,000 men, all 
 Chinese, who will accompany the forces to the north. It is to 
 be hoped that they will not revolt when there, for if they do the 
 army will be left destitute of transport. Horses are not used 
 here as beasts of burden. Immense weights are always earned 
 on men's shoulders, balanced with bamboos. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Hong-Kong, March 28th, 1860. 
 . . . One cannot help feeling sorry for the poor innocent China- 
 men who are going to be slaughtered for obeying the Emperor, 
 whom they look upon as a sort of compound of father and God. 
 Here the Chinamen are far from being ill-disposed towards us. 
 Thousands of coolies have been engaged as a transport corps to 
 
AR WITH CHINA. 113 
 
 the expedition. In the north probably the people are more 
 loyal than to aid the foreigners in fighting against their 
 Emperor. Troops from India and France are arriving, and 
 Hong-Kong is now full of soldiers. Two regiments went to 
 Chusan a few days ago, with orders to take possession of the 
 island, and to fight should any resistance be made. The French 
 had intended to occupy that island, and therefore our troops 
 were sent immediately to forestall them. A portion of the main- 
 land on the opposite side of this harbour has also been annexed 
 by the English in order to keep the French at a distance. 
 "VVe have just heard from the north that the Emperor is wishing 
 for peace, has offered to apologise and to allow the ambassador 
 to go to Pekin. I hope the news is true, and that his terms 
 will be accepted, for I cannot see that any good will come from 
 the war. My old regiment, the 70th, has been relieved, and 
 Will shortly be on its way to India. The 47th and the 65 th go 
 next. Most probably my next letter to you will be addressed 
 from Calcutta. We are ordered to go to Jaunpore and Azim- 
 ghur, two stations in the neighbourhood of Benares. It is not 
 certain that I shall remain with the 47th, but I hope to march 
 up country with it. I have received the first four numbers of 
 the Bevue, and read it with interest. I am glad to see that 
 both you and L. read it. It represents the thoughts and feelings 
 of the best and most intelligent Frenchmen, and shows that the 
 two nations are not so antagonistic as many people suppose. 
 It is curious to observe how the reviewers manage to say the 
 most severe things of the Government without rendering them- 
 selves liable to prosecution. They always seem to me to be 
 saying to the Emperor : " If the cap fits," etc. The weather 
 here is still cool and pleasant, not too cold to prevent me 
 having my doors and windows open day and night. The 
 officers are all very healthy, with the exception of those given 
 to drink. I never had such a horror of drinking as I have 
 now. Fortunately now it is considered disreputable to drink, 
 and is going quite out of fashion. I think I shall succeed in 
 making one officer here a teetotaler. Formerly one would have 
 been laughed at for attempting such a thing. I have lately 
 been investing my surplus cash in buying Japanese things to 
 send home when I have an opportunity. The things they make 
 are very beautiful ; and they have been much sought after by 
 the English to send home as presents. 
 
1 1 4 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 to his mother. 
 
 " Dalhousie " Steamship-of-War, 
 China Sea, April 19th, 1860. 
 I have been at sea now just one week, and expect to arrive 
 at Singapore to-morrow, when I shall post this note. As yet 
 we have had a very pleasant voyage. The weather has all 
 along been perfectly fine, and for the last three days there has 
 not been a breath of wind. As we pass rapidly through the 
 air we do not complain much of the heat. We all sleep on 
 deck at night without blankets. At mid-day the glare is 
 horrible : the sea being perfectly smooth, like a glass, reflects 
 all the light from the sky. Near the horizon it appears quite 
 white like molten iron, and cannot be distinguished from the 
 sky. Our band plays on the poop every evening, and we sit 
 listening, smoking cheroots, in Chinese easy-chairs, which are 
 about the most comfortable kind of chair that has ever been 
 invented. I have a tolerably good cabin, and enjoy the voyage 
 pretty well, but shall be glad when it is over, for I never feel 
 comfortable or clean at sea. The 47th was the last regiment 
 of the Eoyal Brigade to leave China. Now the 65th, 70th, and 
 47th are all at sea. Probably we shall be the first to arrive 
 at Calcutta, because we have the fastest steamer. We may 
 possibly all march up country together to Benares, which will 
 be pleasant, for I have many friends in the other regiments. 
 You remember I have been attached to both of them before my 
 appointment to the 47th. I felt quite sorry to leave Hong- 
 Kong, for I enjoyed my life there very much. I have seen few 
 more picturesque places. The harbour is as fine as any in the 
 world, and the scenery round about, although barren, is very 
 magnificent. Many friends came on board to bid us good-bye. 
 The vibration of the screw prevents me from writing distinctly. 
 I hope you will be able to decipher it, however. Give my love 
 to William, and tell him I approve of his building cottages for 
 the workmen, and of his making use of my money for the 
 purpose. 
 
 to his brothek. 
 
 Calcutta, May 13th, 1860. 
 As I sent a letter from Singapore to mother, I shall merely 
 tell you what has happened to me since then. We had to stay 
 for a week at Singapore before we could get coals to supply us 
 to Calcutta. The number of steamers going to China has almost 
 exhausted the supply of coal there. Our Sepoys were delighted 
 
INDIA. 115 
 
 to get ashore, for their caste prevents them from cooking on 
 board ship, and consequently they had been even on harder fare 
 than you on your voyage to Barcelona. It was a great treat to 
 me also. The luxuriant verdure of Singapore was delightful 
 and refreshing to our eyes after the long voyage. I enjoyed 
 walking about in the cool cocoa-nut groves, and feasted on 
 delicious pine- apples and cocoa-nut milk. We were about eight 
 days in coming here from Singapore. On arriving we were 
 immediately ordered to ccupy tents pitched for us on the 
 Maidan or common of Calcutta. I have a tent there, but the 
 sun is so powerful that I prefer living with Cowan, who has a 
 nice house a little out of Calcutta. The cholera is raging in 
 Calcutta, and as it has also broken out in the regiment, I have 
 a good deal to do. We are expecting to go up country in a few 
 days. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Eanegunge, May 21st, 1860. 
 I have now travelled about one hundred miles on my way 
 up country, and am settled for a few days at this place until 
 the bullock train can be got ready to convey us on to Benares. 
 We came up very pleasantly and quickly by the railway from 
 Calcutta, but still the scenery, being different from anything I 
 have seen before, interested me. The country is very fertile, 
 and mostly covered with a thick luxuriant jungle. Here and 
 there the land is cultivated roughly, and there are lots of 
 populous villages, but the inhabitants seem to be poor, and live 
 in wretched mud huts. The Bengalis are much less civilised 
 than the Chinese. Their boats, houses, etc., are rotten and 
 tumbling to pieces ; and the people, although they have perhaps 
 (according to our ideas) finer features, are much less intelligent- 
 looking, and have a less human way of doing everything than 
 the Chinese. Eanegunge at present is the terminus of the East 
 Indian Bailway. It is a wretched enough place ; everything is 
 dry, burnt up, and dusty ; the earth feels and smells like burning 
 hot bricks. In fact, the top of a burning brick-kiln is cool in 
 comparison with Eanegunge. In my house, which is well 
 sheltered, the thermometer stands at 1 1 2. Fortunately the air 
 at present is exceedingly dry ; if it were damp the heat would 
 be unendurable. I leave this place to-morrow evening by the 
 bullock train, and expect to be at Benares in a fortnight. We 
 only travel at night, and at an average rate of two miles an 
 hour. I have a fine horse ahead, which I bought at Calcutta, 
 and intend to ride him occasionally by the way. The road be- 
 tween -this and Benares I hear is very beautiful. From Bane- 
 
116 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 gunge I can see the dim outlines of mountains through the dust, 
 and long to be amongst them. The water is delicious. I never 
 enjoyed drinking pure water so much in my life as I do now. 
 
 P.S. The sun is so powerful that my whiskers are actually 
 singed and brittle. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 JaUnpore, June 23d, 1860. 
 Benares did not come up to my expectations. The canton- 
 ments and English part of the town have a barren dreary look 
 from the want of trees and hedges, and from the houses being 
 all alike, and from the compounds being divided off by mud- 
 walls. (The compound is a space of ground surrounding an 
 Indian bungalow, on which stables and outhouses are built.) 
 The English station occupies a great deal of ground ; it is about 
 three miles in diameter. Some of the houses are very good, and 
 surrounded by well-kept gardens and pleasure-grounds. The 
 house that Warren Hastings lived in has a fine portico with 
 Doric pillars. In front of it there is a large horizontal sun- 
 dial, which Warren Hastings himself caused to be erected. 
 The pointer is about six feet high, built of stone. The native 
 town is interesting and curious, but there are no fine monu- 
 ments or temples of any considerable size. The Hindu temples 
 are almost innumerable, but they are all shabby, mean, and 
 small. One that is very famous is covered with gold. The 
 houses are high, and the streets narrow and picturesque, like 
 those of Cairo. Sacred bulls wander about them, and are much 
 in the way. The city has a magnificent appearance when seen 
 in the distance, as from the top of a minaret, but a nearer in- 
 spection disappoints. We left Benares about midnight, so as 
 to reach our camping ground before sunrise. The regiment is 
 about 600 strong, and all these went on foot. An advance 
 guard consisting of about thirty men went on about 100 yards 
 in front of the rest. The officers on horseback went between 
 this and the main body, and behind followed the camels, 
 elephants, and bullock-carts carrying the baggage and the sick 
 men. Some elephants were sent ahead to carry our tents, so 
 that they might be pitched before our arrival. The camping 
 grounds by the way are all very much alike ; there is generally 
 a village and a tank near, and the tents are pitched in a grove 
 of mango-trees, so that they may be sheltered from the sun. 
 This is the season for mangos, and we ate lots of them by the 
 way. Three days' marching brought us to Jaunpore. The day 
 after our arrival I again commenced marching with 100 
 Europeans to Azimghur. We were four days on the march ; 
 
JAUNPORE. 117 
 
 fortunately the rains were just beginning, and the weather was 
 not very hot, so that I had no sick men. Once or twice we got 
 thoroughly drenched with rain. In a hot country like this one 
 does not care much about getting wet. On arriving at Azim- 
 ghur I spent a very pleasant day with Captain Eobert Peel, and 
 the officers of the 1 3th, and then set off to return to Jaunpore, 
 where I am now comfortably settled. Jaunpore is the prettiest 
 place I have seen in India. The fields are, many of them, quite 
 green, and the roads are beautifully sheltered by fine large trees. 
 The church reminds me of an English village, but there is no 
 clergyman resident. It is quite a small station ; there are not 
 more than half-a-dozen houses, and. already I know every one. 
 There are a number of indigo-planters in the district, with whom 
 I suppose I shall soon become acquainted. The native town is 
 very old and picturesque, but I have scarcely had time to 
 explore it yet. There is a fine river running through the centre 
 of it, and a massive bridge, which is proverbial through India 
 for its strength. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Jaunpore, July 25th, 1860. 
 I hope you have not been anxious at home on account of not 
 receiving a letter by last mail. The reason that you did not 
 receive a letter was that I put off writing till the last day, and 
 then I had such a severe attack of fever that it was quite im- 
 possible for me to write. The weather this year is said to be 
 very unhealthy. Old Indians say they never felt such heat. 
 Cholera has carried off thousands in Jaunpore, and the European 
 soldiers throughout India have been dying in great numbers, of 
 apoplexy produced by the heat. Two of the officers of the 
 47th have been delirious from fever, and I myself was verging 
 on that state. Now a considerable amount of rain has fallen, 
 and the air has become cool. At night even I am obliged to 
 cover myself with a blanket, but I am perhaps the only one 
 here who does so, for my fever has made me extremely sensitive 
 to cold. A fever pulls me down very quickly, but I recover 
 almost as quickly, for already I am almost as well as ever. The 
 worst part of the year is over now ; we shall have no more very 
 hot weather, and I hope I shall have no more fever. Two of 
 our officers are in Japan. I had letters from both of them the 
 other day. They are delighted with the place, and say it re- 
 minds them of England, the vegetables, trees, and climate being 
 the same. The people, they say, are diminutive and ugly, and 
 the women not half so nice as the Chinese. This is rather in 
 contradiction to the glowing reports we used to read of Japan. 
 Now that I have returned to India, I cannot help contrasting 
 
118 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 the Indians with the Chinese, and they suffer much in the con- 
 trast. The Chinese are the independent Englishmen of Asia, 
 and the Indians the mean cowardly Greeks. I believe that the 
 natives of India have nearly the same feeling towards us as 
 before the mutiny. They always did and always will fear and 
 hate us. All the cruelty, which was very great, exercised by 
 English soldiers has not increased their dislike in the least. 
 There is something peculiar about Asiatics, and in which they 
 totally differ from Europeans. It is not an oppressive despotic 
 government w T hich makes them revolt, but a mild, lax one. 
 However good the government may be, if the natives think it 
 not sufficiently strong to resist them, they are sure to revolt, 
 chiefly for the sake of plunder. It is a remarkable thing that 
 all should be so quiet so soon after the mutiny. In travelling 
 about alone here I feel as safe or safer than I would on a lonely 
 road in England; yet there are no Europeans within thirty 
 miles of this, and the Europeans in Jaunpore magistrates, 
 officers, etc. are only fifteen in number. 
 
 Jaunpore at one time has been a most important city, one of 
 the largest and richest in India. All round about it are ruined 
 monuments, tombs, and wells; some of them beautifully de- 
 signed, and all much in the same style. The Goomtee (the 
 river of Lucknow) flows through the old city, and is crossed by 
 a large massive bridge, with houses and shops on it. There is 
 a fine picturesque old fort, but this has been nearly destroyed 
 lately. The Rajah or king of this district is a little boy of about 
 thirteen; he is under the protection of the English Govern- 
 ment. I went to his palace the other day, and he went all over 
 with me while I inspected all his curiosities and pictures. He 
 is a fine little boy, but swaggers about a good deal, and thinks 
 himself no end of a swell. He is going to learn English, and 
 the Eance or queen, his mother, is in a state of great tribulation, 
 for she says he is going to be made into an Englishman. The 
 house is arranged in shocking bad taste. It is just like an old 
 curiosity-shop, full of pianos, billiard-tables, musical clocks, etc., 
 all huddled up together, and allowed to get dusty and go to ruin. 
 The walls are covered with pictures ; wretched Hindu daubs 
 are put next to French and English engravings and oil-paintings. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHEK. 
 
 Jaunpore, August llth, 1860. 
 ... I was delighted to hear from Allie and William that you 
 had returned from Derwent Bank looking so well and so much 
 improved in health by your stay there. Next best to seeii 
 
JAUNPORE. 119 
 
 you is to hear that you are well, for I like to think that when 
 we meet again I shall not find you much altered. Get me 
 another photograph of yourself on paper, coloured. Although I 
 prize it highly, I am not satisfied with the likeness I have of you. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Jaunpore, October 1st, 1860. 
 
 I eeceive the Revue des Deux Mondes very regularly now, and 
 still more regularly a letter from you every fortnight. I prize 
 your letters so much that I am always fearing you may grow 
 tired of continually writing, and so deprive me of one of my 
 chief consolations in exile. . . . Though thousands of miles 
 away from you, I am still always thinking about home, and the 
 pleasure of meeting you again, and some day I hope we shall 
 be together as we used to be. 
 
 I am now settled probably for some time at Jaunpore as civil 
 surgeon. I shall in all probability be removed from the regi- 
 ment, and transferred to the civil list. My pay is very good, 
 more than sufficient to keep me comfortable. Since the mutiny 
 living is expensive in India, but by degrees I suppose things 
 will return to their old prices. ... I have to look after the 
 dispensary and the jail, and the indigo -planters and rich natives 
 occasionally send for me. The civilians in India are, as a rule, 
 well-educated and agreeable. Now there are two kinds, the 
 old ones educated at Haileybury, and the new or Competition 
 Wallahs, as they are called here. At this station we have 
 specimens of each. Generally speaking, the Competition Wallah 
 is not so well suited for his work as the other. The natives, 
 as a rule, do not respect and fear him so much as the other, 
 because he is less tyrannical, and has not the bodily activity 
 which is so essential for the work he has to do. 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 Jaunpore, February 1st, 1861. 
 ... I was very much struck with the similarity of the 
 Venetian architecture and that of Jaunpore ; some of the arches 
 and ornaments are so much alike that I think they must have 
 been designed by the same architect. The buildings here are 
 of more recent date than those of Venice, therefore probably 
 some wandering Italian has designed them for one of the 
 Mussulman emperors. I expect we shall shortly have a 
 photographic apparatus in the station, and I shall be able to 
 send you some photographs of the temples, etc. You have for- 
 
120 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 gotten to send me the portrait of your wife. I am very anxious 
 to see it. I am afraid it will be long before I see you and her 
 together, but it will be a happy day for me when we all meet. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Jaunpore, Feb. \5th, 1861. 
 As you say, we are enjoying our winter. It is just like your 
 summer ; the garden is full of roses, mignonette, and all kinds 
 of European flowers, all growing more luxuriantly than I have 
 ever seen them in England ; and the barley, wheat, etc., in the 
 fields are just ready for the sickle. We have fires every night, 
 but we shall soon be obliged to leave them off, for the sun is 
 growing more powerful, and the winds are becoming warm. 
 India suits me remarkably well during the cold weather, and a 
 month of it is enough completely to re-establish my health, and 
 make me as strong and fat as ever I was. The heat of summer 
 even is not at all disagreeable when one has a good house ; and 
 if it were not for the fevers and the natives India would be a 
 very endurable country. Your conversation with Mrs. S. 
 amused me. She is quite right about the tyranny of the 
 English in India, but I think she is wrong in blaming us for it. 
 The rulers of India, I fancy, must always be tyrants, and it is a 
 great mistake to fancy that India is governed according to the 
 strictly written law. 1 1 have heard you speak with horror of 
 the torture inflicted by Lord Clive and Warren Hastings. 
 What would you say if I told you that even now torture is 
 inflicted by Government officials to extort confessions ? If you 
 knew all that I know, I think you would be of the same opinion 
 as Mrs. S. ; but nevertheless you and she might give an incorrect 
 judgment. The manners and deceit of the natives annoy my 
 wife exceedingly. She cannot take it philosophically, and see 
 that it is as much their nature as their black skin. She says : 
 " Si je savais parler, je leur dirai : Vous etes des voleurs." By 
 the time she learns to speak their language she will know that 
 such a reproach would be no reproach to them. They know it 
 as well as we do, and are not ashamed. The judge's wife is a 
 cousin of the Bushes, and the joint magistrate was a pupil of 
 Mr. W in Cumberland. Is it not curious that so many in such 
 a small station should be connected with our friends in Cumber- 
 land ? The assistant magistrate is a great friend of mine ; he 
 was at College with me in London. I like to hear of Wag and 
 Bom. 1 Do you ever make Wag sit up in a pool of water to 
 remind him of his old master ? I have a fine large bloodhound 
 that I am very fond of. His name is Jack, pronounced Jaques. 
 
 1 The dogs. 
 
JAUNPORE. 12 1 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Jaunpore, Feb. 28th, 1861. 
 It is a long time since I have heard from you, but I have 
 heard about you from William and Allie, and am glad to learn 
 that you are bearing this severe winter better than usual. Now, 
 while you are rejoicing at the approach of summer, we are 
 beginning to regret the winter. We can no longer bear a fire, 
 even at night, and soon shall be obliged to have the punkahs 
 again. The winter here is a most delightful season. I wish 
 you could come and spend it with us. You would be delighted 
 to see how comfortably I am settled here, and would enjoy 
 walking about in the garden. The Lieut. -Governor has just 
 paid a visit to Jaunpore. He encamped not far from my house, 
 and his camp was like a little city ; he had hundreds of tents ; 
 elephants, camels, etc., without number. I dined with him 
 once, and, although he was in camp, he had a magnificent 
 display. He was very polite and amiable to me. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 Jaunpore, April 30th, 1861. 
 As I have not written to you for some time, you will be 
 thinking that I have grown lazy, or am becoming indifferent. 
 This is not the case. I think of you as often and as much as 
 ever, and shall never forget all your goodness and love. There 
 are few Europeans in the station, and those few are continually 
 changing. Already I am the oldest inhabitant. I had a great 
 friend here named Young, assistant magistrate, but he has, 
 unfortunately for me, just been removed to Allahabad, and I 
 daresay it will be long before I see him again. In the cold 
 weather he was out in camp about twenty miles from here. 
 I used frequently to go out and spend a few days with him ; 
 he too used to come out and stay with me. I have got a good 
 deal to do here, but am not overworked. The dispensary takes 
 up a good deal of my time, and I am very much interested in 
 it. Since I came here the number of patients has increased 
 greatly, and in the last six months I have had more operations 
 than my predecessors for twelve years. I tell you this to let 
 you see that I am not leading a lazy life. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Jaunpore, July 1 9th, 1861. 
 I am afraid I am too late for the Bombay post, for the rains 
 have rendered the roads very bad, and the post is consequently 
 
122 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 long in reaching Bombay, and may be too late for the steamer. 
 During the last month we have had a great deal of rain, the 
 river is consequently large and rapid, and much of the country 
 is under water. I rode to Benares the other day (thirty-four 
 miles) and came back the same day. The country was exceed- 
 ingly beautiful. All the fields that a month ago had been barren 
 and sandy were green and fresh with luxuriant crops ; and the 
 sky, instead of being of a uniform hue with a burning sun, as it 
 usually is in this country, was covered with feathery clouds, 
 which reminded me of England, and set me thinking of you and 
 home. I was very glad to hear from Allie that you have been 
 staying at Derwent Bank, and are enjoying such good health ; 
 but I was very sorry to hear of Mrs. Young's death, knowing 
 what an old friend she is, and how much you must feel her 
 loss. I drink nothing but water no wine or spirits or beer, 
 which is rather unusual in India, but suits me. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Jaunpore, Aug. 2d, 1861. 
 I read the little extract about the Parsee doctor which you 
 sent me ; I have also read the discussion in Parliament on the 
 subject. I fancy that you and I differ in our opinion on such 
 a question, and the difference arises from the different atmo- 
 sphere and people that surround us. In my opinion it would 
 be a great mistake to allow natives of India to be either doctors 
 or judges in this country. An assistant surgeon, a native, who 
 was educated at University College, was turned out of the service 
 for taking a bribe of ten rupees. I have never met a native 
 whose word I would believe, if he could gain anything by telling 
 a lie, and the judge of Jaunpore told me the other day that during 
 the twenty years he has been in India he has only met with one 
 native whom he would trust as he would an Englishman. I do 
 not think that India can ever be governed by the same laws as 
 England. It must either be governed despotically or abandoned. 
 As soon as we have native judges and magistrates, the verdicts 
 will always be given in favour of those who offer the highest 
 bribe, and if Europeans are made subordinate to natives, they 
 will soon cease to fear us ; and as it is that fear alone which 
 enables us to hold India, we shall be forced to give it up. The 
 newspapers and people generally in India are talking about the 
 probability of another revolt, but at present there is not the 
 slightest danger, for the country is disarmed ; and without arms 
 of course the people can do nothing. The more I see of the 
 natives, the more convinced I am that they thoroughly hate us 
 
 
INDIAN LIFE. 123 
 
 and completely misunderstand our intentions towards them. 
 This, to me, is the great drawback in India. It is impossible 
 to feel kindly towards them, or to take much pleasure in doing 
 them good, when one knows that their greatest delight would 
 be to torture one to death. You used to teach me never to do 
 good to any one for the sake of gratitude, and to tell me that 
 he who does good expecting gratitude is sure to be disappointed. 
 If this be true with regard to Europeans, it is doubly so with 
 regard to natives of India, and a useful lesson for every one 
 coming to India to learn. Notwithstanding this knowledge of 
 ingratitude, I have a good deal of satisfaction in my practice, 
 especially in surgery. Patients come from a great distance to 
 undergo operations, and I take great interest in their cases. I 
 have just established a branch dispensary about twenty miles 
 from here, and have got an allowance from Government for 
 keeping it up. To-morrow I am going to ride there to see how 
 it is getting on and if there are any operations for me to per- 
 form. Two or three days ago I went to see a patient about 
 twenty miles from here. I had to cross three large rivers, two 
 of which were quite dry before the rains commenced. My 
 patient is a rich indigo-planter, and has a very large establish- 
 ment, which I was pleased to see. The road was so bad part 
 of the way that I was obliged to ride upon an elephant, which 
 was almost as fatiguing as walking. The country was looking 
 very green and fresh from the rain. Every inch of land is 
 cultivated, but there is no great variety of crops just now. 
 Indian corn is more abundant than anything else ; it is a very 
 luxuriant-looking crop, standing about five feet high. In another 
 fortnight it will probably be all cut, and the ground sown with 
 either wheat, barley, cotton, or some grain of the pea or bean 
 species. The first crop of indigo is being cut just now ; it 
 stands about two feet high, and looks very much like a luxuriant 
 crop of tares. This was sown last year, and will be rooted up 
 as soon as cut. The other crop was sown this year, and will 
 yield again next year. I have sown a little field near my house 
 with Indian corn, and in another month I intend sowing it with 
 some grain for my horses. I have another field sown with 
 grain for my poultry. By degrees I am extending my farming 
 operations. Now I have about eighty Guinea chickens, besides 
 ducks, hens, bullocks, horses, etc., all of which I intend to feed 
 with the produce of my garden and field. This is such a quiet 
 place, and I lead such a monotonous life, that I scarcely know 
 what to tell you in my letters. Jaunpore at last has a clergy- 
 man, or a missionary, who preaches at the church. He is rather 
 enthusiastic. He admits that he meets with no success to 
 encourage him, or to assure him that his labour is not thrown 
 
124 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 away. He told me that he was almost indifferent as to the 
 results of his preaching, being contented with doing what he 
 thinks his dut}\ 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Jaunpore, Nov. 8th, 1861. 
 
 I shall give you a short account of my journey to Allahabad, 
 so that you may know something about travelling in India. Mr. 
 Lind and I started from Jaunpore about two o'clock in the after- 
 noon in a dog-cart, and drove to a town called Muchliohahi, 
 about twenty miles from here. For this distance we had two 
 horses ; each horse doing about seven miles. In India people 
 rarely drive a horse more than eight miles. At Muchliohahi we 
 got into palkees (palanquins), and were carried to a place called 
 Badshapore, about twelve miles from Muchliohahi. To carry 
 us this distance we had each eight bearers and a torch-bearer. 
 At Badshapore we put up with the joint magistrate Mr. Jenkin- 
 son, who was encamped there. Jenkinson was a pupil of Mr. 
 Webster's at Portinscale. He is a remarkably clever, active 
 officer. Perhaps it would interest Mr. Webster to hear that his 
 pupil is highly esteemed. We passed the night with Jenkin- 
 son, and next morning early started on horseback, rode for about 
 ten miles, and then drove the rest of the way, about twenty 
 miles, to Allahabad, where we arrived about ten o'clock. Alla- 
 habad is at the angle formed by the Ganges and Jumna; 
 consequently we had to cross the former river anything but a 
 pleasant business. Just now the river is low, and we soon got 
 across it by a bridge of boats, but the dried bed of the river was 
 the difficulty. This was loose sand, into which the horse sank 
 to his knees, and the wheels up to their axles. It was hot when 
 we crossed. In the month of June this must be a terrible place. 
 The sand here, I am told, in 1857 was strewn with bodies of 
 Europeans carried down from Cawnpore. Now the crocodiles 
 sun themselves on it, and lazily slide into the water when any 
 one approaches. The serjeant who has charge of the bridge 
 told me that a few days ago he saw a native fall into the river ; 
 he disappeared at once, and nothing more was seen of him but 
 his blood, which stained the water. He was crunched by a 
 crocodile certainly. The river was running rapidly when we 
 crossed, and straining the cables which held the bridge of boats ; 
 the rushing of the water was like a cascade. Shortly after we 
 crossed, an enormous boat containing grain got into the current, 
 and the sailors were quite unable to steer it. The stream 
 carried it at a tremendous pace right down upon the bridge of 
 boats, which of course gave way, and the bridge of boats, etc., 
 
TRAVELLING IN INDIA. 125 
 
 was a complete wreck in a minute. In an hour the whole was 
 buried in the quicksands, and the owner of the boat had a bill 
 of 1000 to pay, besides the loss of his boat and cargo. At 
 Allahabad I put up with my friend Mr. Young, the joint 
 magistrate there. We had just time for breakfast and to put 
 on our tail-coats and drive to the Governor- General's tent. 
 There the Governor-General was seated on a gilded throne, 
 looking very regal. The Lieut.-Governor was on his left hand, 
 and the Commander-in-chief on his right. Then came the three 
 Eajahs Puttiola, Eampore, and Scindia and the old Begum, all 
 in very " gorgeous array." Lord Canning conducted himself in 
 a most dignified manner, and made a good speech in a distinct, 
 clear voice. His secretary translated the speech very badly into 
 Hindustani, and then each Eajah in turn was endued with the 
 " Star of India." 
 
 
126 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 LETTERS FROM NEW ZEALAND AND INDIA. 
 
 ; ' He, the young and strong who cherished 
 Noble longings for the strife." 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Sydney, March 30th, 1862. 
 We arrived at Sydney harbour yesterday, and as the mail for 
 England goes to-morrow, I hasten to write a few lines to let 
 you know that we have safely got thus far on our way to New 
 Zealand. Throughout the voyage we had fine weather ; once 
 we were on the outside of a hurricane, but the captain managed 
 to keep clear of it. We were also in a gale, which however 
 was in our favour, and carried us through the water at a 
 tremendous pace. We passed our time in reading and playing 
 at chess, but still it hung heavy, and we were very glad when 
 any extraordinary event, such as the catching of a shark or of 
 a large sea-bird took place, to relieve the monotony of the 
 voyage. The most exciting event was the sight of land, as we 
 approached Melbourne. The sea does not agree with my wife, 
 and I am sorry to say that the sea- voyage has not had the good 
 effect I hoped. She is very sick at sea, and the food one gets 
 on board of ship does not agree with her. She has wonderful 
 courage, and did her best to forget and overcome her misery 
 by working hard at English, and with her needle. She can 
 now read an English book with pleasure to herself, and I have 
 no doubt will shortly be able to speak English. We are 
 delighted with Sydney. The harbour, which is like a large 
 lake, is surrounded by bays and inlets, and is exceedingly 
 beautiful. Along the coast there are a number of good houses 
 with grounds well laid out. I should not like however to 
 remain at Sydney, for I fancy it is about as ill-suited for 
 Europeans as India. The grown-up people seem to have good 
 health, but I remarked that the children are thin and colourless. 
 
SYDNEY. 127 
 
 I am told too that the mortality among the children is great. 
 The town is well built and clean. Some of the public buildings 
 are good, and remind me of Edinburgh. Among the letters 
 I received on arriving here was one from you, which I have 
 read several times and thought over long. Do not despair of 
 meeting me again. My wife sends her kind love to you. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Napier, New Zealand, April 30th, 1862. 
 
 . . . For me the voyage was not altogether devoid of 
 pleasure. I used to enjoy my bath every morning. I had 
 plenty of books which I used to read, sitting quietly on the 
 deck, and when I was tired of reading I used to smoke, and 
 watch the great albatrosses, and other sea-birds, sailing round 
 and round the ship. In this faineant sort of life one leads on 
 board of ship things of small importance become very interest- 
 ing, and the sight of a log of wood, a shark, or a few whales 
 rolling lazily about in the water caused great excitement and 
 gave rise to endless speculations. The pleasure we had hi 
 getting ashore again at Sydney went a long way towards com- 
 pensating us for the miseries we endured on the voyage. Many 
 of the inhabitants are enormously rich, but very few of them 
 are comme il faut. Many of the most influential people are 
 convicts, or the sons of convicts. I heard one of the magistrates 
 speaking very ungrammatically. A member of Parliament, 
 when it was proposed to establish baths and wash-houses, 
 opposed such lugzuries, as he called them, and said that he him- 
 self had not taken a bath for twenty years. This will give you 
 some idea of the sort of people one meets at Sydney. Directly 
 we reached this place, I took a house, and bought the necessary 
 furniture. It is a little wooden house with three rooms and a 
 kitchen down-stairs, and two rooms up-stairs. The sea is about 
 as far from us as the lake is from you, and every morning after 
 blacking my shoes and ligh'mg the fire, I rush down to the sea 
 and take my bath. I am w. 11 pleased with Napier, but in my 
 next letter I shall tell you more about it, and of my prospects. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 Waipawa, New Zealand, June 22d, 1862. 
 I have just received a letter from you that has been in India, 
 and followed me to this place. You hope that my face is 
 steadily turned homewards, and therefore you will be glad to 
 
128 LETTEKS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 hear that I have no intention of staying long here. My wife and 
 I both feel the want of society, and have come to the conclusion 
 that this is not the place for us to spend our lives. I hoped to 
 have been able to buy some land, to obtain the Government grant, 
 and after a year or two to be able to return to Europe, but now 
 I find there are many difficulties which I did not foresee, and 
 am afraid that if I decide upon taking land here, I must settle 
 for five or ten years, and this is a prospect too gloomy for 
 either of us. I am practising here, and enjoy my long rides, 
 but my wife does not at all like being left alone. There are no 
 ladies or people that we can associate with within four miles. 
 The settlers all live in the centre of their respective runs, and as 
 the runs are very extensive, they are necessarily far apart. I 
 have taken a house in a little village which appears to me to be 
 about the most central situation in the district for practice, and 
 have already numbers of patients. We shall stay here for a 
 month or two, and in that time we shall know how the place 
 suits us, but I think it is not at all likely that we shall remain. 
 Many of the settlers here are gentlemen of education, but they 
 are obliged to live like ploughmen, and by degrees adopt the 
 manners of their labourers, and have altogether the appearance 
 of rustics. The children, who swarm, enjoy robust health, but 
 there is a want of polish in their manners ; in fact many of them 
 are little boors. I have no doubt, however, as the place becomes 
 popular, and more ladies arrive in the colony, the people will 
 become more polite and live less like savages than they do at 
 present. There is no doubt whatever that this is a splendid 
 country for colonising. The climate is excellent and the land 
 good, and English people and children enjoy better health than 
 they do in their own native land. In a few years the whole 
 face of the country will be changed, and I think much beautified. 
 The native grasses are yielding to English clover and grasses. 
 Whenever English grass is sown, it springs up luxuriantly, 
 and destroys the native grass. All English trees, flowers, and 
 weeds grow well, and overcome the old inhabitants of the 
 country. The English rat has already driven away the native 
 rat, and the English fly multiplies terribly, and will soon have 
 undisputed possession of the country. The Maories are longer 
 in disappearing than their companion vegetables and animals, 
 but yet they steadily diminish in numbers. Many people 
 lament their extinction, but I myself am not sorry to see them 
 replaced by a better race. They are an ugly, brutal, savage- 
 looking people. Many of them are strong and well-made, and 
 they are said to be brave, but beyond this I believe they have 
 no good qualities, but nearly all the bad propensities you can 
 think of. 
 
NEW ZEALAND. 129 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Waipana, near Napier, New Zealand, 
 July 23d, 1862. 
 . . . This country reminds me of Cumberland, but it is far 
 from being so beautiful. The mountains and rivers are the 
 same, but the valleys are very different. If you can imagine 
 the valleys of Cumberland replaced by the deserts of Arabia 
 you will form a good idea of this country. The grass in the 
 valleys is generally brown, and in the distance looks exactly 
 like sand. The fern-covered mountains and hills are terribly 
 gloomy and desolate-looking. The forests are grand when you 
 are in them, but viewed even from a short distance, on account 
 of the dull colour of the foliage, appear monotonous and gloomy. 
 They are all surrounded by a belt of dead trees, stretching their 
 enormous naked branches into the air, and looking like gigantic 
 skeletons. The effect on one's spirits is decidedly depressing. 
 The scenery of the pass between the vales of Lorton and Kes- 
 wick is cheerful compared with much one sees here. 1 have 
 explored nearly the whole province of Hawke's Bay, which is 
 the richest in the North Island, and have taken up my abode 
 in the centre, which is the prettiest part of the province. The 
 village is increasing rapidly, and will, I have no doubt, in a few 
 years be a very pretty place. Gardens are springing up, and 
 the neighbourhood begins to look green, as the European grasses 
 spread everywhere. There is an immense forest near the 
 village, but this will soon disappear, for wherever an opening 
 is made into it, and all around its circumference, the trees are 
 dying. Before this happens no doubt the landscape will be 
 embellished by European trees and hedges. The sheep-run 
 that I expected to have bought is close to this village. It con- 
 sists of a number of fine limestone hills, picturesque and, I have 
 no doubt, extremely fertile ; but at present it is almost in its 
 primitive state, covered with fein. The owner is a disreputable 
 character, a lazy drunkard. He is fast ruining himself. As a 
 rule, settlers here do not make the most of their land. The 
 greater number came here without money, and borrow in order 
 to buy land. Eor this borrowed money they pay 1 5 per cent., 
 although they mortgage their land. At first they were not 
 obliged to buy the land, they only paid a nominal rent to 
 Government. As other settlers arrived, the land was put up 
 for sale, and they were obliged to buy or leave the land. Thus 
 many are deeply in debt, and cannot borrow more money to 
 improve the land. Nevertheless, the land slowly improves 
 itself. The sheep tread down the fern, and the European grasses 
 
 i 
 
130 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 spread spontaneously. Wherever there is a road, or wherever 
 cattle go, clover springs up. The sheep carry grass seeds up 
 to the tops of the hills ; the grass springs up there first, and 
 every year descends lower, until the fern has quite disappeared. 
 Some of the settlers enclose the land, plough, sow oats, and 
 then grass. Others merely enclose fields, overstock with sheep, 
 so that the sheep are forced by hunger to eat the young fern, 
 which, once destroyed, does not spring up again, provided grass 
 be sown. The fern must be first burnt. The majority of the 
 settlers, however, are content only to burn the fern, and to sow 
 grass in places. The last plan succeeds, but it is a slow process. 
 People have not yet begun to plant hedges. The fencing is 
 made of very strong posts and rails, which last about ten or 
 twelve years. Some make fences with strong wooden posts 
 and wire. Between this and Napier there are many thousands 
 of acres of excellent land belonging to the Maories that are 
 quite uncultivated. As the Maories are rapidly disappearing, 
 this land will soon fall into the hands of Europeans. The 
 accounts one hears of the Maories are quite incorrect. So far 
 are they from being a fine race of people, that of all the people 
 I have yet seen they are the lowest. They are physically much 
 inferior to many Indians. They are exceedingly ugly, and 
 perfectly useless. They have a sort of animal courage ; like 
 dogs, they will attack when they think people are afraid of 
 them, but are at once cowed by determination. Till now they 
 have been successful in their encounters with Europeans, because 
 the soldiers were demoralised by want of activity and determina- 
 tion on the part of their officers and of the Government. Their 
 success has made the natives exceedingly impertinent, and they 
 affect to despise Europeans. The present Governor does all he 
 can to keep peace by making presents, and by yielding to the 
 natives continually, and the more he gives them the more they 
 ask. In disputes with Europeans the natives take the law into 
 their own hands, and it is a general complaint here that the 
 Government will not aid an European in obtaining justice. The 
 decisions in European courts are generally given in favour of 
 Maories, for the sake of maintaining peace. The Governor 
 wishes to keep peace until roads be made throughout the 
 country. If this plan succeeds in maintaining peace for two 
 or three years, there will no longer be any danger, for the Maories 
 will then be less numerous, and the Europeans proportionally 
 increased. Originally the missionaries were very powerful in 
 New Zealand. They traded with the natives, had great influence 
 over them, and were supposed to have supernatural power. 
 They consequently became exceedingly wealthy, and were 
 jealous of other Europeans coming into the country, and did 
 
RETURN TO INDIA. 131 
 
 their best to oppose colonisation. One, who still lives in this 
 province, actually refused shelter to Europeans. He was living 
 in state, with Maori servants. His evil deeds were made known, 
 and he has been dismissed from the Church. I think that the 
 reason that the Maories are dying out is that they have con- 
 tracted some European habits which they are too poor to keep 
 up, and they cannot now live on fern-roots as formerly. They 
 are too lazy to work, and their stomachs can no longer digest 
 fern-roots and cabbage-trees. They do not appear to me to 
 indulge much in drink, but they all smoke. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Point de Galle, October 16th, 1862. 
 You see by the address at the top of this letter that I have 
 left New Zealand. I am now on my way to Calcutta, but think 
 it not at all unlikely that I may see you again shortly. I have 
 a great desire to come and live near you. I must go to Calcutta 
 before returning to England. When there I shall hear on what 
 terms I can resign the service, and will consider if it be well to 
 do so. As my movements are uncertain, I have thought it best 
 to send my wife on to Europe. When she is able she will pay 
 you a visit, and I hope I may be able to introduce her myself. 
 I was very glad to receive your portrait when I was in New 
 Zealand, but no portrait can equal the pleasing lively recollec- 
 tion of my dear mother, which I can always and do continually 
 call to mind. 
 
 to his sister. 
 
 Dinapore, January 3d, 1863. 
 I have just received letters from you and L., both from New 
 Zealand and from England. The Bombay mail leaves in an 
 hour, so I hasten to send you a few lines. I have heard from 
 Annette, who has arrived all safe at Paris. It was a great relief, 
 for I have been very anxious about her. You may expect to 
 see her shortly after you receive this letter ; at all events, she 
 will write and let you know how she is getting on. I have been 
 very busy lately. I have medical charge of a native regiment, 
 and also of a battery of European Artillery. I like the latter 
 charge very much, as I have Europeans to look after. I have 
 some private practice, and might have a good deal more, for 
 many are wishful to have me for their doctor, but I am not at 
 all fond of private practice. Dinapore is a healthy station. 
 The scenery is rather tame, but the Ganges is grand, and on a 
 clear day, looking across the river, one can see one of the snowy 
 
132 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 peaks of the Himalayas. At present the weather is cold, and 
 one enjoys a fire. I am told that it is never very hot in 
 summer, so you see I have come to a good place to wait for the 
 result of the amalgamation [of the East India Company's and 
 the Queen's troops]. I have a fine Arab horse, one said to be 
 of the purest race and best pedigree in India. He is a beauti- 
 ful creature, and I enjoy bounding over the sward on his back 
 in the early morning. His name is " Selim." He is as quiet as 
 a lamb, but playful as a gazelle when I am on his back. I sent 
 little presents to you and L. from Sydney to William. I am 
 going to send you a Cashmere shawl by and by. My native 
 regiment is the famous * Eoyal Lucknow." 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Dinapore, February Uh, 1863. 
 I have just received a lot of letters that have been round 
 by New Zealand. You press me to return to Europe, and 
 I feel almost ashamed to remain out here whilst there are 
 so many kind friends at home anxious and longing to see me 
 again. I myself have as great, or a greater, longing to see you 
 all again, and I hope the time is not far distant when we shall 
 meet again. I am afraid to return at present, because I do not 
 know what I could do in England, and it would never do for 
 me to be idle. Here I have plenty of occupation and work that 
 I like ; I have operations to perform upon my native patients, 
 and I have a battery of Artillery to look after, and that suits me 
 well. This battery is one of the old Bengal batteries, now 
 amalgamated with the Eoyal Army, and subject to the same 
 rules. As the men have had their full turn of duty in India, it 
 is expected that they will return to England shortly, and very, 
 possibly I may return with them. The Artillery, you know, is 
 the scientific department of the army. As a rule, the officers 
 are of a superior class, and more agreeable companions than 
 other officers. You seem to think that Annette is with me, 
 and yet I remember to have written to say that she was going 
 on to Paris when I was at Galle. I am surprised that you have 
 not heard from her. I suppose she has been busy, and j>erhaps 
 not well. No doubt you will have seen or heard from her before 
 you receive this letter. I send you my photograph, which 
 might pass for a likeness of George. I do not think I am a bit 
 altered since you saw me. I have no tendency to obesity, but 
 am strong and healthy. People here say I look as if I had just 
 come from England, so you see you need not be anxious about 
 my health. 
 
DIXAP0RE. 133 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Dixapore, February lith, 1863. 
 I have just received a letter from Allie, dated Jan. 1 9th, from 
 Shields, in which she says that you were moved to tears at the 
 sight of the photograph I sent you from Calcutta. She talks of 
 the haggard features and melancholy appearance which the 
 photograph gave me. Certainly I am not so young-looking as 
 when you saw me ; the troubles and anxieties of life must alter 
 one's appearance as one grows older. A doctor too has more to 
 annoy and vex him than other people ; nevertheless, I think I 
 am young-looking for my age, 1 and the photograph rather exag- 
 gerates any sadness that there may be in my face. Certainly 
 I am not at all haggard. I enjoy excellent health, and am able to 
 work hard; and although I do not enjoy life as formerly, still 
 I am tolerably happy, and satisfied. Now that I have a lot of 
 European soldiers, with women and children, to look after, I take 
 great interest in my patients, and although I have much anxiety, 
 this is compensated for by the pleasure I feel in seeing my 
 patients recover. General Swinley was reviewing the Artillery 
 the other day, and I had a long talk with him. He told me 
 that in all probability the battery that I now have charge of 
 will return to England in a year, so perhaps it will not be very 
 long before you see me. 
 
 to his sister. 
 
 Patxa, April 10th, 1863. 
 I have come to stay at Patna for a week. The Civil Surgeon 
 of this place has just gone to Calcutta to see his children off to 
 England, and he asked me to do his work during his absence. 
 I like the change very much. The drives round about Patna 
 are very pretty, and it is a much more quiet place than Dina- 
 pore. There are no military here, none but civilians, opium 
 agents, etc., and every one is disposed to be very polite to me. 
 I have a grand house and garden, with books, a microscope, 
 three or four carriages, and a lot of horses, at my disposal, so I 
 shall no doubt pass my time pleasantly. It is only seven miles 
 to Dinapore, so that I can easily drive there when I feel inclined. 
 I have received many kind letters from you lately about Annette 
 and the baby. I am glad you take so much interest in them. 
 You will find when you come to know Annette well that she 
 has many excellent qualities. You must write and tell me 
 candidly what you think of the baby. Do not be afraid of not 
 praising it ; I prefer the truth to compliments. L. hopes that 
 it is not a little Kelt. There is no fear of that; the mother is 
 
 1 Nob quite thirty. 
 
131 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 from the north of France, and has altogether the appearance of 
 a Norman, as by this time you know. As yet I am uncertain 
 when I ought to expect Annette, but I hope she will remain in 
 Europe till October. This is a very bad time for her to come 
 out. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER, 
 
 Dinapore, May 1th, 1863. 
 I HAVE just received your letters written after seeing Annette 
 off at London Bridge. I can scarcely tell you what pleasure I 
 had in reading them, and how warmly I felt towards you for 
 the kind way in which you have behaved towards my wife. 
 She has written to me about you, and expresses herself as de- 
 lighted with her reception from you all. I feel certain that you 
 have saved the life of the little boy, for he would assuredly 
 have died had he remained at Paris. My wife tells me that 
 she has engaged her passage in the steamer which leaves on the 
 1 2th of April, so that in a few days I shall meet her in Calcutta. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHEE. 
 
 Dinapore, July 28th, 1863. 
 I have just received news from Allie, dated Etal Villa, June 
 10th. The details she gives us of the little baby of course are 
 exceedingly interesting to both of us. She tells us how kind 
 you and Isabella are, and what care you take of the boy ; but it 
 is not necessary to tell me that. I know that you will look after 
 him as well and as carefully as you did with your own children, 
 and that he is much better with you than with his mother in 
 India. I am glad to hear that William has a nice healthy little 
 boy. You must have a great deal to amuse and occupy you, 
 with so many grandchildren. Annette is going to write you a 
 letter in English. She often talks about you, and is very 
 pleased with the manner in which you and Allie mention her in 
 your letters. She always reads the letters, and is most eager 
 to make out all that concerns the little boy. She joins with 
 me in love to all. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Dinapore, September 1 8th, 1863. 
 I AM afraid you think me dreadfully neglectful in not writing 
 to you oftener, and I must say that I scarcely deserve to receive 
 so many kind letters from you. I have very little to say, but 
 I must write for fear that you should get disgusted at con- 
 tinually writing without receiving replies, and, in consequence, 
 stop your bi-monthly letters, the receipt of which is, to me, one 
 
DINAPORE. 135 
 
 of my chief enjoyments in this dull country. My wife is tolerably 
 happy, although she often thinks of her little one, and when she 
 hears of the illness of other young children, is glad to think that 
 hers is far away from this unhealthy country, and is well cared for 
 in England. Annette "distracts herself," as she says, with birds 
 of all sorts, and we already have an aviary consisting of canaries, 
 parrots, mainas, Java sparrows, and other birds of which I do 
 not know the names. We go out riding together every evening, 
 she on my charger, and I on a horse belonging to the regiment. 
 I do not at all agree with you about Japan. If I can, I 
 shall certainly go there, for it is a fine country, and I like 
 travelling in new countries and seeing strange people. It 
 seems at first sight unjust that we should force the Japanese 
 to associate with us, and there is no doubt that, for a long time 
 at least, our association with them will be rather hurtful than 
 beneficial. There will certainly be war with Japan sooner or 
 later, and the result will be good. The English have improved 
 India, and they are likely to do good in China and Japan also. 
 Whether the war is just or unjust, I have no objection to going 
 there as a surgeon, and doing my best to keep English soldiers 
 alive. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Dinapore, Nov. 19th, 1863. 
 
 I have just received two letters from you, one by Bombay 
 and the other by Calcutta. Annette is even more delighted 
 than I am to receive them, and more eager to tear the envelope 
 and read them. The last photograph you sent is very good. 
 I think it is the best photograph of yourself I have seen. The 
 baby is too young to come out well in a photograph, but one 
 can see that he is in good condition, and well looked after. 
 Mother and Isabella are exceedingly good. At first I felt some 
 scruples in leaving the baby with mother. I was afraid it 
 might be a trouble to her. Now I am very glad, since you tell 
 me that she takes a delight in the occupation of looking after 
 it, and that this occupation does her good. . . . 
 
 You tell Annette that mother is reading a book on Self- 
 Government in India, and that you are sorry she does not like 
 the natives. I am afraid if you knew all that we think about 
 the natives you would be shocked, but if you were in the 
 country I imagine you would think as we do. They are 
 altogether despicable, and have got more self-government than 
 they deserve. Some natives have entered the medical service, 
 but although they have plenty of talent are not to be trusted. 
 One or two have been dismissed for taking small bribes. I 
 hear that one native also has entered the Civil Service, and I 
 
136 LETTEKS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 think it a great misfortune that one native should have a 
 responsible situation. We have had news from the Punjab. 
 People generally think that there will be a serious war with 
 the hill tribes. I shall write to you again soon. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Monghyr, Dec. 9th, 1863. 
 We are now, as you will see by the date of this letter, at 
 Monghyr. I was sent off suddenly from Dinapore to take 
 medical charge of this station, as the former doctor had been 
 obliged to leave it on account of illness. We are six hours by 
 rail from Dinapore, nearer Calcutta. It is probable I may be 
 stationed here for some time, but not certain. My wife is 
 delighted with the place, and it certainly is very pretty. The 
 houses are all built in a kind of fort, which is about half a mile 
 in diameter. The Ganges runs under the walls of this fort, 
 and the views from the ramparts are magnificent, for the 
 country round about is undulating and picturesque, and in the 
 distance there are tolerably high mountains. My wife and I 
 packed up all our things, and put the whole of the contents of 
 our house in a boat which has just arrived. We ourselves 
 came down by train four days ago, and have been living with 
 the brother of an old friend of mine who is magistrate here. 
 We have taken a house in the country about a mile from the 
 fort, and our things are now being conveyed there. We are 
 glad to hear such good accounts of the baby, and delighted 
 that you are fond of him. Give my love to Isabella, and tell 
 her how thankful we feel towards her for her kindness to 
 our baby. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Monghyr, Dec. 29th, 1863. 
 We have just received your letter from Derwent Bank 
 whilst mother was staying with you. Annette has been trying 
 to write a reply, but she is afraid that her letter will not be 
 ready in time. She is not at all in a calm frame of mind. 
 The packing, travelling, and arranging our new house in her 
 present state have been rather too much for her, especially as 
 she always will have her own way, and takes the entire 
 management of the household on her own shoulders. We also 
 have friends staying with us, and this gives extra employment. 
 Often in India it is the husband who manages household affairs, 
 because it is difficult for a lady to look after twenty or thirty 
 servants, whose language she can only speak imperfectly; but . 
 I leave all to my wife, as she has more capability in that way 
 than I have, and besides I have other occupation. 
 
MONGHYE. 137 
 
 We both like Monghyr much, but it seems very quiet after 
 Din apore, which you know is a large military station. Here 
 there are no ladies at all, and consequently no dinner-parties. 
 It is still uncertain how long I may remain here; but if I 
 change, it will probably be to go to Calcutta, which of course 
 will be a good move for me. 
 
 Our big dog Jack returned the other day. You know we 
 left him in New Zealand by accident. He jumped ashore just ' 
 as the steamer was leaving Auckland. I wrote from Sydney to 
 Auckland to have him forwarded. A friend brought him on to 
 Calcutta. In coming round the north of Australia he was 
 wrecked, and taken on in another ship to Batavia, and from 
 thence to Calcutta. His father and mother were with me in 
 China, and he was born in my tent at Calcutta, immediately on 
 our arrival from China in 1860. Is he not a great traveller for 
 a dog ? Perhaps you may see him in England some day. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHEE. 
 
 Monghye, April 12th, 1864. 
 I often reproach myself for not writing oftener to you, but 
 so little occurs here that can interest you that I scarcely know 
 what to say in my letters. Do not judge of me by my letters, 
 but feel assured that I love you as much or more than ever, 
 that I think of you constantly, and long to see you again. I 
 am glad to say that we have at last got a very nice house, 
 beautifully situated on the banks of the Ganges. The view 
 from our verandah in the early morning is magnificent. 
 Annette is delighted with the house. We have a very charm- 
 ing young lady staying with us, and my wife enjoys her society 
 very much. She is a niece of the Pre-Raphaelite painter 
 Lewis, and daughter-in-law of Sir B. Peacock, judge of Calcutta. 
 Monghyr being on the rail, we have lots of visitors, sometimes 
 several at once, who rest with us on their way up country. 
 Annette sends her love to you and Isabella. She often talks 
 of you, and feels grateful to both of you for the care you take of 
 the baby. We are both glad to hear that he is getting on well, 
 and that he does his best to repay your care of him by his 
 amiability. 
 
 TO HIS SISTEE. 
 
 Monghye, May 22d, 1864. 
 I have just received your letter dated April 8th, in which 
 you tell me our little boy is staying at Derwent Bank. I hope 
 that he will derive benefit from your judicious treatment. He 
 
138 LETTERS OF JAMES FA.WCUS. 
 
 ought never to be allowed to show temper on any account, or 
 to disobey. I fancy he resembles his mother in disposition, 
 and she tells me that when she was young a little corporal 
 punishment was necessary, " pour faire passer ses coleres." 
 Probably the same treatment would be effectual with the 
 son. I have nothing new to tell you of our life at Monghyr. 
 We are both well. Although it is the hottest part of the year, 
 the heat is not excessive. The thermometer is at 87 in the room 
 in which I am writing, but out of doors it is much hotter. We 
 shut all our doors and windows at nine o'clock in the morning, 
 and open them at six in the evening. This we do to keep out 
 the heat, and to allow the cool air to enter morning and even- 
 ing. About a week ago the heat was very great, but we have 
 had a few dust and thunder storms, which have somewhat cooled 
 the air. I am sitting writing without a punkah, but Annette, 
 who suffers more from the heat than I do, is lying on the sofa 
 in her dressing-gown under the punkah, studying natural 
 history. She has a large English book with pictures, and she 
 is trying to learn the names of all the curious insects that come 
 on our dinner-table, and annoy us by getting into the soup and 
 wine. Annette has a great taste for natural history, and she 
 has so many pets running about the house, that mother, if she 
 were here, would be in a state of continual alarm. She has five 
 parrots, which follow her about like dogs. The latest importa- 
 tion is a chameleon, a most extraordinary-looking lizard, which 
 is continually changing colour. He is very quiet and harmless; 
 he never eats of his own accord, but swallows almost any- 
 thing we put in his mouth. He will live for a week without 
 eating or drinking, but we give him six grasshoppers daily. 
 The Hindustani word for chameleon means twelve colours, 
 but these colours are only shades of green, yellow, and black. 
 In the house he is generally of a dirty uniform yellow colour ; 
 if we touch him so as to make him move, black stripes like the 
 marking on a perch make their appearance, and the grounding 
 blushes green. When placed out of doors on the grass, he 
 assumes the same colour as the grass, and can scarcely be dis- 
 tinguished. He appears to have a great objection to water, and 
 gets very excited (for a chameleon) if any is placed near him. 
 
 People in India are glad to have Sir J. Lawrence as Governor- 
 General. I saw him at a reception at Government House when 
 I was at Calcutta. The expression of his face "shows that he 
 is energetic, determined, and hard-working. Of the three 
 Governor-Generals I have seen, Lord Canning fulfils most 
 completely my idea of what a Governor-General ought to be. 
 He was more stately and regal in his manners than the others,, 
 and appeared more at home when before the public. He spoke 
 
BIRTH OF A DAUGHTER. 139 
 
 well; perhaps his delivery was rather cold and calm for an 
 orator, but this was especially becoming in a Governor of India, 
 where the activity and fire of Europeans is misinterpreted. 
 
 May 23d. Your letter dated March 23d has just arrived ; thus 
 it has been two months on the way, and there are no marks 
 on the envelope to explain the cause of the delay. . . The 
 expense of living in India is so great that 1200 a year is 
 easily spent. My predecessor at Monghyr made a fortune in 
 seven years (15,000), but he was very economical, and had 
 better pay than I have. Latterly the pay of Civil Surgeons 
 has been much diminished. Formerly the Civil Surgeon was 
 also registrar of deeds, and this appointment alone was in 
 many places worth 1200 a year. This registrarship is now 
 given to natives whenever a Civil Surgeoncy becomes vacant. 
 This is done to encourage the natives ; the surgeons it is sup- 
 posed require no encouragement, and, having no friends at head- 
 quarters, can be hit with impunity. I think shortly the surgeons 
 will be treated with more consideration, for they are very 
 necessary members of society in India, and if they are not 
 better paid, it will be difficult to induce others to come out. 
 
 May 30th. To-day I received your letter enclosing Mrs. 
 Stanger's. I feel quite grateful to her for speaking well of the 
 baby. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Monghyr, June 27th, 1864. 
 
 I AM happy to be able to tell you that Annette has got safely 
 over her accouchement, and that a little girl was born on the 
 2 2d of this month at 102 a.m. The little girl promises to turn 
 out well, as far as I am able to judge at present. She is very 
 fair, has good features, and a pretty round head. The day she 
 was born she turned her eyes to the light, and seemed to look 
 about. This, together with the fact that she is very quick in 
 her movements, makes me think that she will be of a lively 
 disposition. 
 
 In your last letter you said you were about to leave Keswick 
 with our little boy. I am sure his stay at Keswick will have 
 done him both moral and physical good. I should very much 
 like to hear L.'s opinion of him. I have more confidence in 
 his opinion than in yours, for I know you are prejudiced in 
 his favour. 
 
 I have been very busy lately going backwards and forwards 
 from Monghyr to Jaunpore, which is a large railway station, 
 about five miles from here. There are 400 English workmen 
 there, engine-drivers, platelayers, and engine-builders. The 
 majority of them are from Shields and Newcastle (from Arm- 
 
1 40 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 strong's works). They are a hard-drinking, disorderly lot, but 
 I like going among them. It is pleasant to hear the familiar 
 accent of our native country in this remote place. I was called 
 there to consult about a man who had been shaken by a tiger. 
 There are numbers of tigers, leopards, bears, and wolves near 
 Monghyr. This man was rather too bold a sportsman ; he 
 wounded the tiger, and went after it into the jungle on foot. 
 Tigers crouch like cats, and you do not see them until you are 
 close upon them. It happened thus to this man. The tiger 
 caught him by the arm and shook him as a dog shakes a rat. 
 The arm was much bruised, and the subclavian artery injured, 
 but this was not discovered until three weeks after the injury, 
 and the case was then hopeless. It was at this time that I 
 was sent for. People seldom recover from injuries inflicted by 
 tigers. The injuries are always more serious than they appear. 
 This man was the best workman in Jaunpore, and a great 
 favourite with the other men. He bore his sufferings and the 
 prospect of death wonderfully. He supported a mother in 
 England, wrote to her regularly, and the day before he died, 
 received a letter from her begging him to be careful of " them 
 savage beasts." He showed us the letter ; the tone of it was 
 desponding; she appeared hopeless of ever seeing her son again. 
 The man was remarkably good (not religious), fond of work and 
 sport. He had built himself a hut among the jungly hills, and 
 there he used to spend his Sunday and half-Saturday entirely 
 alone. On showing his mother's letter, he said, " That is why 
 I wish to live, to see her again." 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Monghyr, July 20th, 1864. 
 
 I received your very kind letter a few days ago ; we were 
 both very much pleased with your description of the boy. 
 Although you say that yours is a quite unprejudiced statement, 
 I can yet see that it is a very friendly criticism ; it pleased me 
 and delighted Annette. She does not believe that any one in 
 speaking of the baby is prejudiced, and when Allie praises the 
 little boy to the skies, or mother calls him a " perfect " child, 
 she thinks that they are only stating facts in a kind manner. 
 
 I quite agree with you in thinking the prevention of disease 
 the most useful part of the doctor, and should like very much 
 to have some appointment which would occupy me in that 
 way. It is very probable that sooner or later I may get such an 
 appointment, for I heard incidentally lately that it was pro- 
 posed that I should be appointed one of the Sanitary Com 
 mittee for India. I quite believe that India may be made as 
 
MONGHYR. 141 
 
 healthy as any country in the world for the English soldier. 
 Many people derive great benefit from a short stay in India, 
 and I think that the army might be rendered more efficient if 
 selections were made in England, and if those soldiers who are 
 likely to derive benefit from the climate of India were sent out. 
 All those who have a tendency to chest diseases should be sent, 
 and those with a tendency to abdominal diseases retained. 
 Another simple way of diminishing the mortality of our soldiers 
 in India would' be to snd half of each regiment to the hills 
 every hot season. This would give more room to the other 
 half, and control or prevent the epidemics of cholera. 
 
 Of course the barracks at the hill stations would require to 
 be enlarged and improved. As the climate there is good, the 
 soldiers ought to be healthier than in England. This plan of 
 sending half of each regiment to the hills every hot season will 
 not cost much money or trouble as soon as the railways are 
 completed. As the soldiers are not drilled much from March 
 to October, the discipline of the regiments would not be much 
 endangered. 
 
 Our new Medical Warrant has at last come out to India. 
 It benefits the doctors of the Queen's troops, but the majority 
 of the Indian doctors lose by it. All Indian officers, medical 
 and others, regret that the government of India has been 
 transferred to the Crown. John Company was by far the more 
 generous master. 
 
 I have not yet heard definitely when I must join my appoint- 
 ment at Calcutta, but I suppose towards the end of September. 
 I am very glad that I am going to Calcutta, for there is too 
 little society at Monghyr. It does one good to see people 
 round about one working, and stimulating one to do the same. 
 Our little girl is growing very fast, both long and fat. We 
 tried goat's milk mixed with sugar and water at first, but this 
 would not do, so we gave donkey's milk, which answers 
 admirably. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Monghyr, July 30th, 1864. 
 I have received your letter, and as the post leaves to-day, I 
 hasten to send a few lines. You ask if I see the Comhill 
 Magazine. We see all the magazines and reviews, and Annette 
 is at present reading Denis Duval, and likes it very much. I 
 have read a few numbers interruptedly of the " Small House at 
 Allington." Trollope writes well, and I admire his novels very 
 much, especially the conversations in them, which are so easy 
 and natural. As there is so little society at Monghyr we have 
 lots of time for reading, and I get through a great deal, both 
 
142 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 heavy and light. Lately I have been reading much about 
 ancient Egypt and India in the works of Sir W. Jones and 
 Heron. If you meet with either of these books I should re- 
 commend you to read them. Since the rains began we have 
 had charming weather, and the country round about Monghyr 
 is beautifully green, everything is growing fast and luxuri- 
 antly. Annette and I drive out every evening in our dog-cart. 
 We have a fine Australian horse, which trots fourteen miles an 
 hour, and is very willing and good-natured. He eats the grass 
 in our compound for a few hours every day, and always when 
 we go out he comes up to us seeking for bread. The dog-cart 
 has wheels more than six feet high, so we are nicely raised, and 
 get all the air that is to be had. The Ganges is rising 
 rapidly, and the plains are getting formed into islands by the 
 filling of the nullahs with water. Last evening we saw about 
 1000 bullocks and cows swim across a tributary of the Ganges, 
 from one of those islands. You can imagine how curious the 
 scene was. The baby grows more charming every day. She 
 is now beginning to smile. I suppose you would like to have 
 a description of her, but there is nothing particular to describe. 
 All her features are well-formed, remarkably distinctly for a 
 baby. She is as healthy and well as it is possible for a baby 
 to be. The donkey's milk seems to agree remarkably well 
 with her. She is well looked after, for besides her mother and 
 father, she has three ayahs to attend upon her, and a little boy 
 to milk and look after the donkeys. There are two donkeys 
 with little ones, good amiable brutes, who know me and come 
 when I call them. You may be sure they are well fed and 
 looked after; they wander about the compound eating the 
 grass, and have a dish of soaked grain twice a day. We 
 have one excellent ayah, whom we can trust. I hope we may 
 be able to induce her to accompany us to Calcutta. 
 
 I am always interested to hear of Mr. Smith, and should like 
 very much to meet him again some day. I am glad that you 
 like his wife. It is not often that our friends marry the persons 
 we should like them to marry. I am generally disappointed 
 with my friends' wives. I am happy to see by your letter 
 that you hear often from mother, and that she is in good health. 
 I hope she may long continue so, and that I may find her little 
 changed when I return from India. Annette sends her love. 
 She intends writing by next post, and will give you a descrip- 
 tion of the baby. 
 
 P.S. We have just seen some bullocks swimming across the 
 Ganges close to our house. The current must have carried 
 them several miles below the point from which they started, for 
 the water runs at the rate of about six miles an hour. I am 
 
MONGHYR. .143 
 
 astonished that they are able to swim so far. I have had some 
 photographs taken of natives of Monghyr district prisoners. 
 One of the four, whom you will easily distinguish, is a Brahmin. 
 I had him taken to contrast with the others ; he is much 
 fairer, but this is not shown in the photograph. The other 
 three are Musaliers, inhabitants of the hills near Monghyr, 
 probably the old race of the country, who were driven to the 
 hills by northern invaders. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Monghyr, September 10th, 1864. 
 I was so very busy when the last mail left that I forgot to 
 write Until it was too late. This is the unhealthy time of the 
 year, and there was a great deal of sickness in the station, which 
 kept me engaged day and night. Our own baby too caught 
 cold and fever, and gave me a great deal of trouble. She soon 
 however got over her sickness, and is now as healthy and fat 
 as I could wish. She has a very good constitution, and is much 
 admired by every one here. We are always very glad to hear 
 that the little boy is doing so well. My wife, however, is not 
 very well pleased to hear that he has red hair, and will scarcely 
 believe it. I tell her that " golden," the word used, means red. 
 For my part, I like a slight tinge of red. In this country it is 
 a clear proof that there is no Indian blood. We still give our 
 baby ass's milk, and now we have begun to mix it with arrow- 
 root, grown at Monghyr. She seems to thrive on this, as well 
 as if she were suckled, but I fear it may not suit so well when 
 teething commences. Still I hope, as the baby is strong and 
 healthy, that she may cut her teeth easily. The wet-nurses, 
 Dhyrs, are so low and dirty, and so troublesome, that I did not 
 like having one for our little baby. We have not yet fixed on 
 a name. I wish to call her Francesca or Helen, but Annette 
 prefers Lucie. It is still quite uncertain when I shall leave 
 Monghyr, but I wish, for the baby's sake, to remain here till the 
 end of October. You must not suppose that I wish to go to 
 Calcutta merely for the sake of making a fortune, although I 
 should like to return to England with plenty of money. My 
 chief object is to become more generally useful, as a more 
 important member of society. I think I am more likely to 
 succeed in this at Calcutta than in any other place. 
 
 to his mother. 
 
 Monghyr, October 3d, 1864. 
 I AM still at Monghyr, but am expecting daily to hear some- 
 thing about going to Calcutta. I am in no hurry to leave, for 
 
144 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 it is still hot there, and our baby is doing well here. She is in 
 first-rate condition, and her cheeks are getting red. Every one 
 admires her, and we, of course, think she deserves to be so 
 admired. Annette is so constantly occupied with her little 
 daughter that she finds time for nothing else. We have had a 
 houseful for the last month. Mrs. G., the wife of an old friend 
 of mine, and Colonel S.'s wife and child, have been staying with 
 us for a month. The latter brought his baby down from Dina- 
 pore, because it was supposed to be dying, and a change of air 
 was recommended as a last hope. Their baby is now stout and 
 healthy, and the parents are delighted. Our home has become 
 a sort of hospital for our sick friends, because Monghyr is one 
 of the healthiest places on the plains of India, and certainly 
 the prettiest. Eemember me kindly to Isabella. I do not 
 know how to thank her for her kindness to our little boy. I 
 hope you will send another photograph soon. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Monghyr, October 20th, 1864. 
 I have just received your letter, in which you speak of my 
 prospects in Calcutta, and also give an interesting account of 
 our little boy. The appointment at Calcutta is not yet vacated, 
 but Dr. Beatson (the late Governor- General's doctor), who holds 
 it, is at the top of the list of Assistant Surgeons, and as soon as 
 his promotion is in the Gazette he will have to leave. I have 
 great hopes of succeeding in Calcutta, and I am determined to 
 work hard and do my best, but there is a great deal of uncer- 
 tainty. I must be patient, wait, and spend more than my pay, 
 for the appointment is not well paid, and expenses at Calcutta 
 are great. It is fortunate that we shall have a good house, in 
 the healthiest part of Calcutta, for I quite agree with you that 
 health should be economised. The climate of India suits my 
 constitution very well. I have now completely recovered from 
 the ague which I caught in China, and people say that I look 
 as healthy as if I had just left England. Our little baby is 
 doing remarkably well. From what I hear of Calcutta, I dare- 
 say she will be as well there for the first few years of her life 
 as in any part of the world. A great deal of the sickness of 
 children in this country is due to neglect. The ayahs are care- 
 less and untrustworthy. You are right in supposing that by 
 going to Calcutta I shall have a better chance of paying Europe 
 a visit soon. Annette is charmed with your description of the 
 little boy, and with the kind manner in which you speak of 
 him. 
 
MONGHYR. 145 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Monghyr, October 20th, 1864. 
 
 We have got through the heat of another year in this country, 
 and are now enjoying the best climate in the world. We rejoice 
 at the approach of winter as you do in England at the approach 
 of summer. Certainly the scenery about Monghyr, of its kind, 
 is as beautiful as possible. Without leaving our house we see 
 the most charming views : on the one side the Ganges and 
 mountains, and on the other our garden, full of flowers and 
 curious flower-bearing trees, luxuriant acacias, and funny- 
 looking cactuses, and euphorbias brilliant flowers contrasting 
 with the freshest green. We enjoy too our evening drives, along 
 winding picturesque lanes with natural hedges, formed of all 
 kinds of bushes and trees, which are often covered with enor- 
 mous parasitical plants and creepers. The variety is so great 
 that at every turn we see something new, and the luxuriance 
 of the vegetation is such as you who have never been in the 
 tropics can scarcely imagine. Any description can give you but 
 a faint idea of the reality. Annette looking over my shoulder 
 says I ought to mention as a drawback the abundant animal life 
 of the country, the mosquitoes, the grasshoppers, the flies, fleas, 
 and flying bugs and ants, which swarm, and do anything but 
 improve the flavour of our soup, coffee, etc. 
 
 We are not going to leave Monghyr so soon as we expected, 
 and we consider ourselves very fortunate in that we were not at 
 Calcutta in the great storm, of which no doubt you have read 
 in the papers. If we had been there I suppose we should have 
 suffered. E., a friend of mine, wrote to me from Calcutta that 
 the greater part of his furniture was destroyed, to the value of 
 7000 rupees. Every one at Calcutta has lost more or less. The 
 poor natives down the river are starving, and thousands will 
 die, although people are subscribing handsomely, and doing all 
 they can to aid them. 
 
 Our little girl is thriving, and becomes prettier and more 
 engaging every day. She keeps Annette constantly employed, 
 and even takes up a considerable portion of my time. We had 
 her christened about a fortnight ago, and I took the liberty of 
 making you the godmother ; we call her Beatrix, not after any 
 one, but simply because I think the name pretty, and applicable 
 to her, as she seems to be of a very happy disposition. I hope 
 it may be a name of good omen. 
 
146 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Monghyr, November 21st, 1864. 
 Lately I have had a great deal to do. I have been expecting 
 daily to leave Monghyr, and been kept in such a state of un- 
 certainty that I have felt little disposition for writing letters. 
 The appointment was promised to me by the Governor-General 
 six months ago, but since then the Commander-in-Chief has 
 promised it to some one else, and it appears there is some un- 
 certainty as to whom the gift of the appointment belongs. The 
 matter must shortly be decided, for in three weeks' time the 
 place will be vacant. If I do not get to Calcutta, I shall con- 
 sole myself by thinking that perhaps it is better for the health 
 of our little girl that we should remain at Monghyr. She is 
 perfectly healthy, and never cries now. Every one admires her, 
 and is astonished that she should have so much colour and be 
 in such good condition. I think that the reason of this is that 
 her mother is constantly looking after her. She is never left 
 alone with servants. I have reproached myself for not writing 
 to Isabella oftener to thank her for all the kind care she is 
 taking of our little boy, but I always hope she will feel sure 
 that I fully appreciate and am grateful for her kindness. Allie 
 frequently writes and tells me of Isabella's assiduous love and 
 care, and both Annette and I rejoice to think that our boy is so 
 well looked after. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 LETTERS FROM CALCUTTA. 
 
 " I was sick, and ye visited me : I was in prison, and ye came unto me. . . 
 Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren, 
 ye have done it unto me." St. Matthew xxv. 36, 40. 
 
 to his sistee. 
 
 General Hospital, 
 Calcutta, December 20th, 1864. 
 
 ... I think we shall like Calcutta very well. We have a 
 good house in the healthiest quarter, and that is a great advan- 
 tage. The pay is not particularly good, but I have a prospect 
 of obtaining another appointment shortly. The new Medical 
 Warrant which has just come out to India, I fancy, will give me 
 Bs.800 a month, and I have a house besides. Nearly every one 
 is dissatisfied with the new Warrant ; it is slightly advantageous 
 to the younger assistant-surgeons, but after-prospects are bad. 
 However, people in England who do not know what a quantity 
 of money is necessary in India will think it good. Common 
 clerks in offices are better paid here than army doctors. I am 
 glad that I have got to Calcutta, for it is the only place now in 
 India where a doctor has a chance of doing tolerably well. . . . 
 
 TO L. 
 
 General Hospital, 
 Calcutta, February 1 5th, 1865. 
 
 I have had so much to do since I came to Calcutta that I 
 have not had time to write to you and Allie so much as I would 
 have liked. In addition to my work at the General Hospital, 
 I have been officiating as Superintendent of the Alipore Jail, 
 and as the management of a jail is quite new to me, my time 
 has been completely taken up in learning the details of the 
 work. I am very glad that we came to Calcutta, for we both 
 of us find life more interesting than in our up-country station. 
 
148 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 One great advantage to me is meeting with other doctors, and 
 the doctors here are pleasant companions, and excellent in 
 many respects. 
 
 . . . You mentioned in one of your letters that we should 
 establish a branch of the Medical Association at Calcutta. I 
 find that this was done some time ago, and I have become a 
 member. We meet once a month to read and discuss papers. 
 Calcutta is very full just now, and theue are reviews, balls, and 
 parties, or something of that sort, every day. We are going to 
 a ball to-night, and to Government House to-morrow evening. 
 The Duke of Brabant is staying there, and my old schoolfellow 
 Eustace Smith with him. 
 
 I have just received a long letter from Allie. We feel deeply 
 grateful to you both for the interest you take in our little boy. 
 Beatrix is a great delight to us ; from observing her we can 
 imagine what pleasure we should have in our little boy. She 
 does not talk yet, but she knows every one about the house, and 
 screams with delight when she sees her mother or me. When 
 anything amuses her she bursts into fits of laughter, so natural 
 and infectious that those who see her cannot avoid joining her 
 in her laugh. It seems to me remarkable that a baby so young 
 should laugh so heartily, but I never observed any other baby 
 so closely as this one. I hope I have not bored you by talking 
 so much of her. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Calcutta, April 4th, 1865. 
 The date I see on a little tablet on my writing-table reminds 
 me that to-day is your birthday, and I cannot help thinking 
 of the anniversaries of this day long ago, when we used 
 always to bring you little presents, learn hymns, or do some- 
 thing to give you pleasure in honour of the day. Afterwards, 
 when we were separated, but not so far as we are now, I used 
 to write letters (knowing what you valued most) o that you 
 might receive them on your birthday. Now I am too far away 
 to be able to calculate on your receiving a letter on any par- 
 ticular day, so I write a letter on the day itself to show you that 
 I have not forgotten the old custom, and that I think as much 
 of my mother as ever. We received letters from Isabella and 
 you a few days ago. It always delights us to hear such good 
 accounts of our little boy. When I hear that you are so fond 
 of him, I feel glad that he was left in England, for I hope that 
 by his cheerful temper he amuses and interests you, and is per- 
 haps a pleasanter companion than his father would be. We 
 still like Calcutta, although this is the hot season ; but there is 
 
CALCUTTA. 149 
 
 this advantage over up-country stations, that the nights are cool, 
 for we feel the sea-breezes. Although I am writing in a cool 
 house, the thermometer on my table is at 95. As soon as the 
 sun sets, however, it will be quite cool. I have much more to 
 do now than I have ever had since I came to India. In addi- 
 tion to my work at the General Hospital, I am Superintendent 
 of the largest prison in India, and Deputy-Inspector of Prisons 
 in Bengal. The work that I have to do suits me very well. I 
 have to prevent as well as cure disease ; to see that evil-doers 
 are not badly treated, but punished, taught, made to work, and 
 improved, I see that they are made to work until all the 
 wickedness is worked out of them for the time, and I know that 
 this result is attained by the quietness that prevails in the 
 prison at night. After a good day's work, the prisoners, like 
 other people, sleep soundly. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Calcutta, May 20th, 1865. 
 
 I never had so much to do in my life as lately, and this is 
 the reason that I have not written to you for some time. The 
 state of great uncertainty about my appointment also had some 
 effect in preventing 'me from writing, for I did not like to tell 
 you about it until all was settled. I only heard yesterday for 
 certain that I am to continue to act as Superintendent of the 
 Alipore Jail and Deputy-Inspector of Prisons in Bengal. Before 
 I was only officiating ; now I am regularly appointed. For the 
 present I am also to keep the General Hospital appointment, 
 but shortly I shall be Superintendent of Lunatic Asylums 
 instead. ... 
 
 I read the articles on America in the Beview with interest, 
 but I do not altogether agree with the author. Having lived 
 so much among savages I think has made me inclined towards 
 slavery, ancl wishful for the extension of the institution in 
 savage countries. Obedience ought to be the first lesson taught 
 to races, as to children. The English allowed too much liberty, 
 and were too gentle with the New-Zealanders, and here it is 
 found absolutely necessary to govern the rude tribes very de- 
 spotically. Too much freedom was allowed to the hired coolies 
 in Assam, consequently the tea-planters were, many of them, 
 ruined, and the progress of civilisation and cultivation was very 
 nearly stopped in that country. Savages, like children, will not 
 work unless they are forced to do so. Englishmen are the best 
 masters they can have. At present the Bengal Government is 
 making laws to force the coolies to work after they have 
 
150 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 engaged to do so, but at the same time it is intended to appoint 
 inspecting protectors of coolies to see that no cruelty or injustice 
 is exercised. Thb American Government should have done 
 something of this sort. 
 
 P.S. I am glad to hear such good accounts of our little boy. 
 I have great hopes he will not disappoint us. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 July 19th, 1865. 
 We have just received letters from you and L. chiefly relating 
 to our little boy. We neither of us care particularly about his 
 being handsome, so are not disappointed to hear that strangers 
 are not struck by his beauty, but we are delighted to hear that 
 he already begins to show signs that some day he will be intel- 
 ligent, and possess manly qualities. Beatrix is very pretty and 
 intelligent for her age. She is nearly thirteen months old, has cut 
 eight teeth, can stand alone, but cannot walk. She understands 
 a good deal that is said to her, and imitates whatever strikes 
 her fancy. As yet she can only say " papa," " mamma," and 
 " ayah." I mention all this in order that you may compare her 
 intelligence with that of her brother at her age. She is rarely 
 ill, and is always in good condition. I have had a little more 
 time to myself than I have had the last three months, and this 
 is rather fortunate, for the weather is getting too hot for work. 
 In olden times cut cherries and public offices in Calcutta used 
 to be shut up when the weather was very hot, but now the 
 work is too important to be stopped, however hot the weather 
 may be. The Judges complain of Sir Barnes Peacock, who 
 himself will do any amount of work, and expects others to work 
 as he does. The house that we are shortly going to occupy is 
 one of the nicest in Calcutta, " the city of palaces," so we expect 
 to be very comfortable. The garden and grounds are very 
 extensive, and will suit well for the children. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 General Hospital, August 7th, 1865. 
 
 A little girl was born on the evening of Sunday, July 23 d, 
 whom we intend to call Margaret. She is just thirteen months 
 younger than Beatrix. The work that I have to do is of an 
 interesting character, and I consider myself very fortunate in 
 having such useful work to do. The pay and prospects too are 
 good, and these are not to be overlooked, with such a rapidly 
 increasing family as mine is. 
 
CALCUTTA. 151 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, September 21st, 1865. 
 
 We are both delighted with the portrait of our little boy, 
 which Isabella was so kind as to send us. The likeness to 
 Beatrix is so striking that we need scarcely send you a portrait 
 of her ; the brother and sister, although neither resembles their 
 parents, are very like each other. Beatrix is a charming little 
 girl, but occasionally very violent. This fault is very difficult 
 to correct here. She is most despotic in her manner towards 
 her bearer and ayah, in fact to all the servants about the house. 
 
 I am glad to hear that Sir C. Trevelyan's son has been elected 
 member for Tynemouth. Although he has not as yet written 
 anything of any value, he has a great deal of talent, and as he 
 comes of a good family he will probably do Tynemouth credit 
 some day. I travelled in the same steamboat with Sir C. 
 Trevelyan, and have often seen Lady T. in Calcutta. She is 
 excellent in every way. 
 
 Tell L. that I have followed his advice, and have been 
 occupying myself with sanitary matters. A short pamphlet 
 that I wrote about a month ago has brought me more credit 
 than I deserve, and letters from all parts of India. 
 
 TO HIS mother. 
 Alipore, October 3d, 1865. 
 I have really had a great deal of anxiety and trouble of late, 
 and I think this has made me overlook the post-days. I have 
 also had a great deal of work. I always have about seventy 
 sick sailors to treat in the General Hospital. This, as you 
 may imagine, takes up a good deal of time ; and besides this, 
 I am Superintendent of the Alipore jail, where I have to 
 manage about 2000 prisoners, as well as to look after the 
 medical treatment of those who are sick. By degrees I hope to 
 get the jail well organised, and then I shall have less to do. 
 In May and June I was acting as Inspector-General of Jails, 
 and this of course gave me additional work. I am very glad 
 to have so much to do, for the work interests me. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Calcutta, December 29th, 1865. 
 Your letters arrive as regularly as the mails. We are always 
 delighted to receive and read them. They keep us acquainted 
 with all that goes on at home, and strengthen our sympathetic 
 connection with you. It is very painful to me to hear that our 
 dear mother is losing her strength and cheerfulness. I like 
 
152 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 to think of her as I saw her seven years ago, and still hope that 
 when I do see her again I shall not find her much changed. 
 We are glad to hear such good accounts of our little boy. . . . 
 It has been so warm that few English flowers have flourished 
 this year. Christmas, I suppose you know, is the time that the 
 corn and English flowers grow in this country. People here 
 try to make their Christmas as like English Christmas as 
 possible. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Alipore, January 19th, 1866. 
 I was glad to hear from Allie that you do not suffer from 
 neuralgia nor the cold so much as you did last year. How I 
 wish you could spend your winter with us ! You would enjoy 
 this climate at this time of the year. Every day is alike ; 
 there is no wind nor rain, and the temperature is that of a mild 
 English summer. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, April tth, 1866. 
 The anniversary of your birthday falls on a delightfully cool 
 day. Of late the weather has been terribly hot, but to-day a 
 most refreshing change has taken place, and I am enjoying the 
 cool sea-breezes while thinking of you. We were delighted to 
 hear such a good account of your health from Allie. Our 
 youngest baby, Margaret, has a most charming temper ; she has 
 a smile for everybody, and rarely cries. She is remarkably 
 fair, and has a great deal of colour for an Indian child. I think 
 and hope that she will be like her grandmother. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER ISABELLA. 
 
 Alipore, May 20th, 1866. 
 You ask me whether you should lend money to our nephew 
 G. to enable him to take a share in a saw-mill in New Zealand. 
 I have little doubt that a saw-mill, properly managed, would pay 
 well, and that G. would perform satisfactorily his part of the 
 management ; but we know nothing of the partner, and have 
 no security that he is to be trusted. The only advice I can give 
 is to consider the loan as a gift, and to act accordingly. It gave 
 
 me great pleasure to hear of your generosity towards . 
 
 I am charmed to have another proof of your kindheartedness 
 and devotion to us. I feel that I owe you thanks for this as 
 well as for all your other kindnesses. You will always reflect 
 on what you have done with pleasure. 
 
TRAINING OF CHILDREN. 153 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 July 7th, 1866. 
 
 We heard from Allie by the last mail about our little boy. 
 It is a great satisfaction to us that he is so well cared for, and 
 that he is liked so much by all of you. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alipore, August 1st, 1866. 
 
 I was very glad to receive your long kind letter a few days 
 ago, and Annette was delighted with your description of the 
 little boy. I agree with you that it is not of any serious con- 
 sequence his being a " spoilt child " for the first three or four 
 years of his life. It will necessitate a little rough treatment at 
 school from the other boys, before a cure can be effected, but 
 then he will, I hope, be all right, and not suffer too severely. I 
 should prefer his not being spoilt ; but what can be done ? It 
 is Isabella's nature to be too kind, and nothing anybody can say 
 will induce her to treat the child differently. One thing is 
 certain, that she is exceedingly good, and I should be the last 
 to find fault. I am sure that the little boy will be better brought 
 up than his sisters whom we are with continually. Indian 
 children as a rule are detestable, yet they always recover with 
 proper tuition in England. The servants are wonderfully 
 patient and attentive, yet they always yield and submit to the 
 most tyrannical treatment, which of course spoils the children. 
 I hope, but can scarcely expect, that our children may be 
 exceptions to the rule. Up to the present time our children 
 like us better than their servants, and this makes me think that 
 we may possibly be able to keep them in order, and counteract 
 the evil influence of the servants. 1 You and Allie both ask if 
 I have lost money by the Agra Bank. I am happy to say that 
 I have escaped, but many that I know have been terrible losers. 
 Allie seems to have a great aversion to all speculations. You 
 know she sent me the 50 left her by Mr. Pow to invest. I 
 did invest this in a company for spinning and weaving cotton 
 in India, which I think was a good object. The company is 
 very likely to do well ; but as she objects to speculation, I 
 will buy her investment, and pay for it by transferring the 
 cottages near Derwent Bank to her. 
 
 1 He was then but three years old. My dear Isabella had the principal 
 charge of James my brother, as well as of his son James ; and both were 
 the better for her gentle loving care. 
 
154 LETTEES OF JAMES FAWCttS. 
 
 You will be glad to hear that the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal 
 has given me the officiating appointment of Inspector-General 
 of Jails until Dr. Mouat returns to India. This will pro- 
 bably lead to my being Dr. Mouat's successor, if in the 
 meantime I do not get a better appointment. The better 
 appointment would be one admitting private practice in Cal- 
 cutta, but I think I prefer moderate Government pay to a large 
 private practice. There is a good deal of jealousy, on account 
 of my short service, but I can afford to disregard this now that 
 I have the appointment. You see doctors are as jealous of 
 each other here as at home. 
 
 You cannot be more desirous to see me again than I am to 
 see you. The chief pleasure that receiving a better paid 
 appointment gives me is the thought that it will enable me to 
 visit England and see you all again. I often think of Derwent 
 Bank, and all the trees we planted, and the " improvements." 
 What an alteration the eight years must have made ! My wife 
 thinks you will be much struck with the change in me, com- 
 plexion quite changed, and instead of a slim boy, a stout strong 
 man. I think it is as well to prepare you for a change, but 
 you must not suppose that I have yet got the complexion of a 
 guinea. The liver does not extend below the ribs yet. I am 
 happy to say Annette is quite well and strong, and the two 
 babies enjoy excellent health now. Beatrice is pale, but the 
 baby is as healthy-looking as any English child at home. 
 Annette joins in love to you and Allie. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, August 2d, 1866. 
 
 You will be glad to hear that J. P. Grant, the new Governor 
 of Jamaica, was much disliked by a certain party here for his 
 leaning towards the natives, and I suppose you will hope that 
 the conduct of the emancipated negro will not upset his calm 
 impartiality. I am afraid he will find Jamaica more difficult 
 to govern than Bengal. He led a most extraordinary life here. 
 People could scarcely ever see him, for he rarely got up before 
 three o'clock, rarely talked, but used to lie about on the sofa in 
 pyjamas in most extraordinary postures. At night he wrote his 
 orders, and transacted business, always by writing, never by 
 interviews or conversation. He succeeded well, for he was 
 clever with his pen, and thoroughly conversant with all ques- 
 tions connected with the government of Bengal. This plan 
 will not do in Jamaica, where everything will be new to him. 
 
DARJEELING. 155 
 
 If kindness, talent, and humanity are all that is required of a 
 Governor of Jamaica, he will succeed. I am afraid, however, 
 that the natives require severity, but in this you will not agree 
 with me. Kemember me most kindly to Mr. Wm. Smith, if he 
 is still in your neighbourhood. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, September 20th, 1866. 
 I have just returned from Dinapore, Deegale, and Patna, 
 where I have been inspecting jails. I enjoyed my visit to 
 Patna very much. I was hospitably entertained by the Com- 
 missioner. My first regiment, the old 70th B. N. I., was at 
 Dinapore, and of course it was a pleasure to see my old comrades, 
 also to revisit old haunts. Patna is a very pretty place at this 
 time of the year ; the compounds (parks or fields surrounding 
 the houses) are beautifully green ; they all looked neat and 
 park-like ; the trees are very fine, and accidentally well placed. 
 The train in which I returned to Calcutta was crowded with 
 pilgrims, all old men and women. I should say there were a 
 thousand of them. They were on their way to Gya, but pro- 
 bably numbers would die before reaching the end of their 
 journey. The poor purdah- women seemed much bamboozled 
 with the train and the crowd. Whenever they got separated 
 from their guide, they squatted down on the ground, muffled 
 up in their clothes, determined (like a little dog that we once 
 had) to stick to the place where they were lost. Some of the 
 high-caste pilgrims were objecting strongly to the fraternity 
 of the railway carriage. They were appealing to the guard to 
 turn a Chumar (low-caste man) out of their carriage, and when 
 their appeals were useless they tried to bribe the Chumar to 
 leave them. The natives who are accustomed to travel by 
 train have given up the idea that they are defiled by contact 
 with low castes. 
 
 to his mother. 
 
 Alipore, Dec. 7th, 1866. 
 I have been away from Calcutta for three weeks on my tour 
 of inspection of jails. I have been at Darjeeling, a station 
 high up among the Himalayas, where our soldiers are sent to 
 recruit their health. The station is 7000 feet high, and is as 
 cold as England. As you climb up the mountain side, in an 
 hour you pass from the vegetation of the tropics to that of the 
 
156 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 temperate zone. The forests through which I had to pass are 
 magnificent, composed of Indian fig-trees, magnolias, chestnuts, 
 oak, etc., all tangled together with curious creepers, and covered 
 with mosses and endless varieties of orchids. There were 
 canes about 500 feet long arranged on the trees like the rig- 
 ging on the masts of a ship, and rendering the forest perfectly- 
 impenetrable. The scenery about Darjeeling is the grandest I 
 ever saw, so grand as to be almost terrible. The highest moun- 
 tains in the world, Mount Everest and Kinchin-junga, are 
 about ten times as high as Skiddaw. They are distinctly seen 
 from Darjeeling, and appear high up in the sky, brilliantly 
 white, and look so near that you fancy you could throw a stone 
 on them, although they are forty-five miles distant. When I 
 was at Darjeeling the weather was perfectly clear and fine, 
 without the least wind. I enjoyed myself very much, taking 
 long rides on the mountain ponies, and I had magnificent views 
 of the snowy range of mountains for upwards of one hundred 
 miles. It was a great treat to get among the mountains again, 
 but I do not think I should like to live at Darjeeling. It is 
 too gloomy and terrible; no lakes or smiling valleys, as in 
 Cumberland, to relieve the severity of the mountains ; not even 
 a visible river, for all the rivers are hidden from view by their 
 steep banks overgrown with wood. The most cheerful object 
 is the cold snowy range. The extensive view of ranges upon 
 ranges of mountains, every one so distinctly seen, without any 
 habitations, rivers, or evidence of life, makes one feel very 
 lonely among these mountains, and the complete silence for 
 not the slightest sound is to be heard enhances the feeling. 
 It is most remarkable that there are scarcely any birds or 
 animals to enliven the Darjeeling forests. There were even 
 very few noisy insects when I was there, but plenty of most 
 beautiful butterflies. I returned to Calcutta well, but the next 
 day I was laid up with fever, caught probably by passing 
 through the jungles. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 January 1867. 
 I have such a lot to do now, travelling about, and writing 
 inspection reports of the Bengal jails, that I find it difficult to 
 avoid missing the post sometimes. I think, however, that 
 Annette writes whenever I am unable to do so. I have just 
 returned from Orissa, of which no doubt you have heard, for 
 the famine has directed public attention to the district. I 
 went there with the Commissioners who have been appointed 
 by Government to inquire into the causes of the famine, and 
 
OEISSA FAMINE. 157 
 
 the best way of preventing famine in future. The Lieut.- 
 Governor, Sir Cecil Beadon, has been much blamed, but I do 
 not think he could have done much more than was done. The 
 only way in which the famine could have been prevented 
 would have been to have constructed canals and railroads years 
 ago to convey rice into the country. Eice is too heavy and 
 bulky to convey in carts, and the coast of Orissa being 
 dangerous and without harbours, sending rice by sea was a very 
 hazardous proceeding. Thousands of bags were lost last year in 
 attempting this. I am very glad that I have to make these 
 tours of inspection, because by so doing I learn my work 
 thoroughly, and become acquainted with the Bengal civilians, 
 my correspondents; but being away from home is a great 
 nuisance, and travelling about in this, country is a very difficult, 
 fatiguing business. I have only two months more of this work, 
 and then I shall revert to my old employment. 
 
 ... It is very kind of you to wish to take care of our chil- 
 dren. There is no one in the world I would trust them to more 
 willingly than to you, but I should be afraid of giving you too 
 troublesome a charge. Isabella and William and John also 
 have offered to receive them, and I do not know how to thank 
 them sufficiently for their kindness, for really the charge of 
 children is no joke. I should have more faith in your method 
 of exercising discipline than in that of any other member of the 
 family, except my wife, who is a little more severe than you 
 would be. She has completely succeeded in conquering Trix 
 during my absence. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Alipore, April Ath, 1867. 
 
 I WISH you many happy returns of your birthday, and wish 
 very much that I could do it in person. I have made the 
 calculation that you taught us all, and conclude that you are 
 seventy-six to-day. 1 
 
 1867, add ten, subtract one, and that leaves seventy-six. I 
 always think of you as you were eight years ago, and fancy 
 that the eight years have not changed you so much as it has 
 changed me. ^ However, I think I am only altered in appear- 
 ance, not in disposition, and I know that my love for my mother 
 is not in the least diminished. I long to see you again ; every 
 year of absence increases my impatience to return. I enclose 
 a little birthday present for you, which I think you will be as 
 
 1 My dear mother's method of reckoning her age was an old joke against 
 her. She added ten and subtracted one from the year of the century. 
 
158 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 pleased to receive as if it were more valuable. The portraits 
 are all good, except that of the little Margaret. Her chief 
 beauty now is her colour, and that is not given in the photo- 
 graph. Mine is very like, but in reality I am not so severe- 
 looking as the photograph would lead you to suppose. We are 
 delighted to receive such good accounts of our little boy, and 
 hope that he will not disappoint your expectations. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, May 29th, 1867. 
 
 It has been so terribly hot of late alternately a furnace and 
 a vapour-bath that I have not had the energy to write to you. 
 I have felt satisfied, after doing my necessary work, to repose 
 quietly with a book under the punkah, or to watch with sur- 
 prise the energetic play of our two babies, who appear quite 
 unaffected by the- extreme heat. The thermometer is only at 
 100 in the house, but 100 in Calcutta, where the air is moist, 
 is as insupportable as 1 10 in the drier parts of India. Men and 
 horses are dying of heat and apoplexy. Out of doors the heat 
 is almost unendurable, but fortunately I very seldom am 
 obliged to go out in the heat of the day. 
 
 We were very glad to receive letters from you and L., 
 and to hear that our boy has gone to spend some time at 
 Derwent Bank, where he will meet with as much kindness and 
 more salutary discipline than at Etal Villa. We are both fully 
 alive to the danger he runs of being spoilt by too much kindness. 
 
 I have felt the heat more this year than ever I felt it before ; 
 this probably is because I have been a little too long in India, 
 and require a change. Every year one stays in India one 
 tolerates the heat less. You must not be surprised if you see 
 me returning to invigorate myself in England in a year or two. 1 
 
 Annette tells me that our little boy's name is inscribed at the 
 Mairie in Paris, as William Paul James. I told her that I 
 wished him to be named William, and she of her own accord 
 made the incongruous addition. You say you like the name 
 Edward. So do I, but it has been an unlucky name in our 
 family. Please select another name, and if I have an oppor- 
 tunity, I will carry out your wishes. Mother made a mistake 
 in making me one of her executors. What can I do so far 
 away ? Why should you not be executor ? or L. ? I suppose 
 our stupid laws will not allow of the former. 
 
 1 Alas ! he did not come until it was too late to save his valuable life. 
 
CALCUTTA. 159 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, August 1th, 1867. 
 I wrote to you about a week ago, but mislaid the letter, and 
 had not the courage to commence another then, for I was suffering 
 from fever, and there is nothing so depressing or provocative of 
 laziness as the species of fever one catches at Calcutta. Annette 
 also has been ill, suffering from a malarious affection. I very 
 much fear that the climate will have a bad effect on one or other 
 of us, so that we shall require a change to Europe perhaps next 
 year. The trip home and the sight of you all again would be 
 delightful. I do not think that I should regret much being 
 obliged to leave Calcutta, but I am doing so well here, and would 
 run so much, chance of spoiling my prospects by abandoning 
 my work, that I shall not leave unless I am forced to do so. 
 The children are in first-rate health, but Beatrice is more than 
 three years old, and I should not like her to stay here beyond 
 five. I think you would like our little girls ; they are both 
 pretty and well-behaved. My wife is expecting another baby. 
 What shall I do with such a family ? I think I must have a 
 house built for them near Derwent Bank, hire a " gouvernante," 
 and ask you to superintend. 
 
 to his mother. 
 
 Alipore, August 31s, 1867. 
 I was so delighted to hear from Allie, the other day, that you 
 have been to Derwent Bank, and were enjoying excellent health 
 and spirits. I suspect, from her description of you, that I shall 
 find you when I return to England much the same as when I 
 left eight years ago. We are all tolerably well now, but for the 
 last month we have had a sick household. The two little girls 
 have had fever, and my wife also has had fever for more than 
 a month. Last Monday she was confined, and since then has 
 been much better. Another little girl but we are not sorry, for 
 I like girls better than boys. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, October 18th, 1867. 
 I am afraid it is a long time since I wrote to you. Your 
 kind letters however come as regularly every mail, and although 
 I feel ashamed of not replying, I do not fear that my laziness 
 will deprive me of the pleasure of receiving letters from you. 
 Yet it is not altogether indolence which has prevented me 
 from writing. I have been very hard worked of late. My 
 
160 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 colleague at the General Hospital has been ill, and I have had 
 all his work to do. I have also been doing the work of 
 Inspector-General of Jails, for Dr. Mouat has been a tour with 
 Mr. Grey, the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. Now I have 
 more leisure ; my wife and the children are well ; the weather 
 is becoming cool again, and we are all feeling the beneficial 
 effects of the change of weather. The little baby is very small, 
 but is doing well, and I daresay ultimately will be all right. 
 The other little girls are charming, and are remarkably 
 healthy-looking for Indian children. They are very well-be- 
 haved, although inclined, when not checked, to be tyrannical 
 and uproarious. I think you are right about people in India 
 becoming indifferent regarding the loss of life, but I suspect 
 there is the same tendency all over the world, and that the 
 carnage in America and Germany was not regarded with much 
 more horror in England than the Orissa famine in Calcutta. 
 We all subscribed tolerably liberally, but I do not think we 
 felt so much sympathy for the poor starving creatures ; this is 
 to be accounted for by the apathy of the natives themselves, 
 their willingness to die, and indisposition to make efforts at self- 
 preservation. It seemed sometimes as if they were glad to die, 
 and gave the famine the same welcome as Juggernath's car. I 
 must say, however, that whatever may have been the feelings 
 of the inhabitants of Calcutta, the English officials of Orissa 
 exerted themselves to the utmost. Most of them behaved 
 nobly, and many that I know have ruined their health by 
 working beyond their power. Sir Cecil Beadon too, on whom 
 has fallen the greatest blame, is not a man to disregard his 
 responsibility, or to be wanting in feeling for the poor sufferers. 
 He was much abused during the mutiny for advocating 
 clemency, and for prevailing on Lord Canning to pardon freely. 
 Now, people admit that he was then right, and I have little 
 doubt that when all the circumstances of the Orissa famine are 
 thoroughly understood, it will be discovered that Sir Cecil 
 Beadon did as much as could have been expected from him, and 
 not only more than those who blamed him, but more than 
 almost any one else could have done in his place. I have not 
 formed this opinion carelessly or hastily, for I was much 
 interested in the matter, and have read carefully most of the 
 papers connected with the famine. I have also conversed with 
 many of the officials in Orissa. I travelled with the Famine 
 Commissioners, and passed through the districts where the 
 famine was most felt. I have no doubt, as you say, that we 
 take very different views of many questions, but I am not more 
 violent than formerly, if anything, less so. When we meet 
 I have no doubt we shall talk quietly and argue calmly. 
 
HURRICANE. 161 
 
 Perhaps I shall persuade you to think as I do on many subjects. 
 Of one thing I am certain, that we shall do anything but 
 quarrel tout a fait le contraire. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Alipore, November 7th, 1867. 
 
 We were glad to hear from Isabella and Allie by the last 
 mail that you have been well throughout the year, and that 
 you enjoyed your visit to Derwent Bank. We wish that you 
 could spend a week at our house occasionally. You would so 
 much enjoy the charming weather we have at present, but we 
 are unfortunately too far away, and even if the railway were 
 completed you would find the journey too long. We were in 
 a tremendous hurricane the other day, an account of which you 
 will no doubt have seen in the papers. Few people at 
 Calcutta slept that night, and nearly every one took shelter on 
 the ground floor of their houses. Many solid walls, and all 
 the huts of the natives, were blown down. Our house, fortu- 
 nately, is very solid, and sustained little damage. Its veran- 
 dahs however were swept away, much to the terror of my wife, 
 for the crash was tremendous. Next morning we saw the heavy 
 beams of the verandahs sticking in the ground at a distance 
 from the house, and looking like arrows hurled by a giant. 
 Our children were taken down-stairs, and they slept with a 
 few interruptions through the hurricane. Although windows 
 and doors were carried away, and the wind blew fresh through 
 the house, and the rain came through it in torrents, we found 
 that in the morning only about 20 worth of damage was done 
 to our furniture, for we had time to stow it away carefully. 
 Hurricanes of this sort are very unusual in Calcutta. They 
 occur on an average once in ten years. I am glad to have been 
 in one, and do not wish to see another. 
 
 We are delighted with the last portrait of our little boy. 
 He certainly promises to turn out well. We do not know how 
 to thank Isabella and you for your kind care of him. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 April 4th, 1868. 
 You see I never forget the 4th of April. I always think 
 of you, more especially on that day, and wish that I were near 
 enough to wish you many happy returns in person. It is nine 
 years now since I left England, and in another year I shall be 
 entitled to leave, whether sick or well. The children will be 
 then too old to remain any longer in India, and it is most pro- 
 bable that I shall return to Europe with the whole family, and 
 
162 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 that on your next birthday I shall be with you. I shall be so 
 pleased to introduce our little girls to you. They are all three 
 pretty, very good, and have charming dispositions. The two 
 eldest are very fond of each other. The other day they were 
 playing together on the verandah. A large owl made its 
 appearance, and Beatrice ran pale and trembling with fear into 
 the house ; then it occurred to her that she had forgotten her 
 little sister, and, notwithstanding her terror, she faced what she 
 thought was the danger a second time, and brought her sister 
 into the house, all this time trembling with fear. I tell you 
 this, as I think it shows what a good loving little child she is, 
 and that she has the courage to overcome fear. 
 
 I hear of you from Allie and William, who are both very 
 good in writing, and it always delights me to learn that you 
 enjoy such good health. Isabella also frequently sends us a 
 letter, and tells us about you and our little boy. How kind she 
 is ! Annette sends her love to you. She has a most affec- 
 tionate recollection of your kindness to her. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Calcutta, April 10, 1868. 
 
 I have just read your letter to Annette. I am sorry that she 
 should have written to tell you about my pay being diminished, 
 while the matter is still uncertain. I said nothing about it, 
 partly because it caused me very little trouble, and partly 
 because it was difficult to explain. The " cutting," as we call 
 it here, is done by the Accountant-General, or some clerk in 
 his office, and neither Sir J. Lawrence nor the Lieutenant- 
 Governor, Mr. Grey, have had a word to say on the matter as 
 yet. I know very well that they are both very well disposed 
 towards me, and would willingly give me as much pay as I am 
 entitled to. The difficulty at present arises from a misunder- 
 standing of a Government resolution either on my part or on 
 the part of the Accountant-General. This will be shortly cleared 
 up, and I trust probably my views will be adopted by Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 In any case I have little to complain of, for my salary, even 
 if curtailed, will be greater than any other Government servant, 
 civil, military, or medical, of my service and standing. 
 
 My good fortune has given rise to a considerable amount of 
 jealousy, which so far misled some that they sent a petition 
 against me to the Secretary of State in England. 
 
 This, as you may imagine, did me good rather than harm. 
 These proceedings of my enemies do not annoy me in the least. 
 
ALIPOEE. 163 
 
 TO HIS BROTHER. 
 
 April 19th. 
 
 The weather is now terribly hot, and I feel often quite done 
 up with my necessary work, and little disposed to make any 
 extra exertion. I am now sitting under a punkah with scarcely 
 any clothes, and yet am dripping with perspiration. All last 
 night I was in the same state, and awoke this morning feeling 
 as if I had been boiled, and as tired as when I went to bed. I 
 never felt the heat so much before, and I suppose every year I 
 shall feel it more and more. This is the rule in India ; new- 
 comers suffer from the heat much less than old Indians. We 
 have been very anxious about our daughter Beatrice ; she has 
 had an attack of malarious continued fever ; for five days she 
 took absolutely nothing but water ; then we became alarmed, 
 and forced her to drink a little soup and milk, but for eight 
 days she took next to nothing. We left Alipore and went with 
 her to the General Hospital for a week, thinking that the change 
 of air might do her good, and now we have returned to Alipore, 
 and she is rapidly recovering, but too weak to stand. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alipore, July 17th, 1868. 
 I am so glad you were pleased with the Lieutenant-Governor's 
 praise of me. The satisfaction you expressed I think pleased 
 me as much as his publicly recorded opinion, which will pro- 
 bably be of value to me hereafter. Annette was delighted 
 with your account of our little boy. We hope he may turn 
 out as well as you expect, but often fear, from the accounts 
 that reach us, that aunt Isabella is spoiling him. Allie, I 
 know, can manage him well, and the thought that she will 
 watch him carefully nous tranquillise. We both feel very 
 grateful to you for inviting him so often to Derwent Bank. 
 Our three little girls are very lively and happy. Of course 
 we think them good and pretty, and are very much attached to 
 them, but we shall have to separate soon, as it will not do to 
 keep them much longer in this country. I often think of Der- 
 went Bank. You would see the effect of what I learnt there 
 if you were to come to Alipore. The land surrounding my 
 house is more extensive than the Derwent Bank estate, and it 
 is a great pleasure to me to plant trees on it, and decorate it, 
 making circumbendibus paths with careful attention to the line 
 of beauty, in the true old Derwent-Bank style. I have not 
 very much time however to spend in this way, for besides 
 
164 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 looking after a hospital and jail, I have engines and complicated 
 machinery for spinning jute to look after, to superintend a 
 large printing establishment ; I am also Justice of the Peace 
 for Calcutta, and take a great deal of trouble about the public 
 health. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 ALIPORE, Sept. 2Mh, 1868. 
 
 I continue to receive your kind letters regularly, but I 
 scarcely deserve them, for I am terribly indolent in not writing 
 to you. I am nevertheless very grateful. The kindness you and 
 L. have shown to our little boy is very highly appreciated 
 by me and Annette. We know how much good he derives from 
 his visits to you, for everybody in writing from Shields says he 
 returns there quite a good child. I hope he may fulfil our ex- 
 pectations and turn out well. Energy and vivacity form a good 
 basis to work upon. 
 
 . . . We have had a wonderfully cool summer. All the rain 
 that has fallen in India this year appears to have been concen- 
 trated in Bengal. In consequence Central India and the north- 
 west are burnt up, and it is feared in fact it is almost certain 
 that there will be a famine there, for which, I suppose, some 
 poor Lieutenant-Governor will be called to account. I was 
 walking through the burial-ground here the other day, and saw 
 two tombstones, not very far from each other, one bearing the 
 name H. W. M. Thackeray, and the other Philip Pirmin. Thack- 
 eray you know was born at Calcutta, and I should think these 
 must have been connections of his. 
 
 P.S. I have read Piazzi Smyth's book on the Pyramids with 
 great interest. He is too enthusiastic to be trusted, and I do 
 not believe in his idea of inspiration. The correspondence in 
 the measurement with the earth's axis must be an accidental 
 coincidence. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, Jan. 19th, 1869. 
 
 Your letter telling me about the elections arrived when the 
 Calcutta community was also in a state of excitement about 
 the arrival of the new Viceroy. The day that Lord Mayo 
 arrived, the troops were all arranged for his reception, and all 
 the Government servants were assembled on the grand stair- 
 case of Government House. Of course we were all eager to 
 see him. He is very different from Sir John Lawrence, and I 
 think will be more popular. Lord Mayo is affable, fond of 
 talking, and easy in his manners. He is a robust, healthy- 
 
LORD MAYO. 165 
 
 looking man, with a great square head, reminding me of the 
 portraits of O'Connell. The Countess appears amiable. 
 
 I was afraid at one time that Sir John was going to leave 
 India without receiving any public demonstration of respect. 
 But the day before Lord Mayo arrived, he was entertained at 
 the Town Hall by the military and civilian officers of Calcutta. 
 At the dinner there were about 250 present, and Sir W. Mans- 
 field presided. Sir John made a very good speech, but he is 
 out of health, and his voice was not strong enough to fill the 
 room. One of the aides-de-camp was telling me that he 
 becomes quite affected, and breaks down in conversation 
 when he talks about leaving India. It is not surprising 
 that he has a great affection for the country in which he has 
 spent thirty-nine years of his life. Last night I met him at 
 Government House. It is sad to see how worn and old-looking 
 he has suddenly become. This makes me fear that he will 
 not survive his viceroyalty longer than Lord Dalhousie and 
 Lord Canning survived theirs. We are all well, and enjoying 
 the calm cool weather. This year we have had no really cold 
 weather, for there has been no rain since October, and it is 
 always unbearably hot out of doors. In the house, however, 
 with the door and windows open, it is pleasant enough, and 
 also out of doors in the mornings and evenings. Our garden 
 is charming, full of roses, and all sorts of English flowers, 
 besides a number of magnificent Indian flowers. The Bignonia 
 Venusta and the Bougainvillia are in full flower. I cannot 
 describe their magnificence to you, but I believe that small 
 specimens are to be seen at Kew. If you could see them, you 
 might form some idea of their beauty when growing luxuriantly 
 as they do here. 
 
 TO L, 
 
 Alipore, Feb. 2 Is*, 1869. 
 
 I received your kind letter about our little boy. It gives 
 me great pleasure to hear that you like him, and I hope he 
 will be as much as possible with you. I often think how 
 pleasant it will be to meet you and him in Cumberland, and 
 to climb some of our old mountains together again. I can get 
 leave now for a few months, but I do not think that would be 
 satisfactory, so prefer waiting a little longer and then taking 
 leave for two years. Our children are in robust health this 
 year, so we think we will keep them for another hot season in 
 India. Sometimes I feel very tired of my work, and long to 
 take a rest. From morning to night I am every day hard at 
 work, and in the hot weather it is very exhausting. My work 
 
166 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 is not disagreeable, but I have a lot of responsibility, and have 
 to keep my subordinates in order, and this is not always an 
 easy task. I suppose that I govern the largest jail in the 
 world. The average number of prisoners is 2500. Lord Mayo 
 came to see the jail almost immediately after his arrival in 
 India. He has had great experience of jails in Ireland, and 
 he told me that the subject was one to which he had paid 
 great attention, and in which he took great interest. We had 
 a long conversation, about an hour and a half, and when he 
 left the jail he wrote in the visitor's book that he " was 
 astonished and greatly pleased with what he had seen." 
 
 Lord Mayo has a most charming manner, and is very much 
 liked. He entertains in much grander style than Sir J. 
 Lawrence. We have at present invitations for a concert, a 
 dinner, and two children's parties at Government House. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, April 6th, 1869. 
 The children are good, affectionate, lively, and obedient. I 
 do not think you will find them troublesome, but they will 
 give you sufficient occupation to be pleasant. I need scarcely 
 tell you that it will be very satisfactory to me to know that 
 you have charge of them, for I know that they will be as well 
 cared for as if they were with their parents. They are in 
 excellent health now, but we cannot keep them in India, and 
 it is possible that we may find it necessary to send them away 
 or take them to Europe before the end of the year. Our hot 
 season has fairly commenced now ; the sun is very powerful, 
 and the air is so hot and dry that blotting-paper is not neces- 
 sary. The thermometer in the house is at 94. Nevertheless, 
 on account of the dryness of the air, the weather is pleasant 
 and wholesome. It is true that the natives suffer from cholera, 
 but this is due probably in a great measure to the filthy water 
 which they drink, and to the dirty houses and neighbourhood 
 in which they live. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, April 26th t 1869. 
 There are so few medical officers in India that Government 
 has been obliged to refuse furlough to many, and I see no 
 prospect of my obtaining furlough for a very long time. Sick- 
 leave is the only leave that is granted, and this only in case 
 of extreme sickness. My only hope of seeing you soon is by 
 taking privilege-leave for three months. Privilege-leave is 
 
EXPECTED RETURN. 167 
 
 leave for one month in every year, which is allowed to every 
 one, and this can accumulate for three years. I am entitled 
 to three months' leave, and I have applied for it to commence 
 in July, so that if my application is granted you may expect 
 to see me in August. This will not interfere with my furlough, 
 so that a few years hence I shall pay you another visit, and 
 remain in Europe for two years. I shall be disappointed if my 
 application for privilege-leave is not granted, for I am very 
 anxious to see mother this year. There are great difficulties 
 in the way, for it devolves on me to find some one who will 
 do my work during my absence, and it is not easy to arrange 
 this matter. Since making my application I have been very 
 impatient to know the result. I am eager to be off, to be 
 home, and to see you all again. The trip I suppose will cost 
 us very nearly 1000. This seems a large sum of money to 
 spend for one month in England, but we shall enjoy our visit 
 to you all immensely, and on our return we will economise. 
 We are both so glad to hear that our little boy is going to stay 
 with you until June. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, May 11th, 1869. 
 My application for privilege-leave for three months has been 
 refused on the ground that there is no one to do my work, so 
 I must be patient, and wait until some more doctors arrive 
 from England. I was enjoying in anticipation the pleasure of 
 passing a week with you at Derwent Bank, and am disappointed 
 that it cannot be managed. Captain Murray was here last 
 evening, and we had a talk together of Keswick, and the old 
 and new inhabitants. His account of our boy is very satis- 
 factory. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, August 6th, 1869. 
 Your kind letters arrive regularly, and are always eagerly 
 opened and read by us. It is very good of you to write so 
 frequently, and not even to complain that your letters are not 
 answered. Since my disappointment in not obtaining leave, I 
 have felt more than usually indolent about writing, and the 
 kind letters which I have lately received from home, expressing 
 delight at the prospect of seeing me soon, have only added to 
 my embarrassment, for I feel that I ought not to have excited 
 expectations before I was sure that my leave would be granted. 
 We have all kept remarkably well through the hot weather 
 so far, and although the weather is horribly steamy now, I 
 
168 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 suffer from nothing but a sensation of fatigue and laziness. 
 I have to stand about the hospital and jail for about four 
 hours every morning, and after I have gone through this, feel 
 very much disinclined for office-work, which I am obliged to 
 do during the rest of the day. The weather in Calcutta during 
 August and September is certainly very oppressive, and all 
 those that can, escape from it. Unfortunately I am one of 
 those that must remain at their post. ' 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 August 27th, 1869. 
 
 Mr. B. gives a good account of , and I hope he will 
 
 continue to improve. The estate on which he is employed is 
 not in a very thriving condition this year. Mr. B. has spent 
 2000 more than he has gained, and prospects are bad. There 
 is scarcely any grain in the surrounding country, and unless the 
 crop of rice this season is a remarkably good one, there will be 
 a famine in the north-west. Mr. B. takes a very gloomy view 
 of affairs, and anticipates a very horrible famine. However, 
 those who have most experience are often wrong, and it is to 
 be hoped that a timely fall of rain may save the crops. In 
 any case there must be great distress, for at Gurrockpore the 
 price of rice is now more than three times as great as it usually 
 is. Bengal and Orissa are well off this year, and rice is being 
 exported to the north-west, but the carriage is very costly. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Alipore, December 7th, 1869. 
 You ask, in a letter which I have just received, whether I 
 intend sending our youngest little girl along with the others, 
 or keeping her here to console us. After much deliberation 
 and hesitation, I have determined on sending her off. I 
 think it better for her that she should be in Europe, for she 
 is more than two years old, and better for me too, for the 
 longer the children are with me the more I become attached 
 to them, and the more painful is the thought of parting with 
 them. I absolutely am afraid to think of parting with. Trix. 
 I fancy I am different from many fathers, for I scarcely can 
 comprehend the parental feeling for young babies, and I 
 have a totally different feeling for those I know well, and 
 those I know but imperfectly or not at all. I can understand 
 Isabella's dissatisfaction in my apparent want of interest in 
 my little boy. She is mistaken however in supposing that 
 I take no interest in him. I am on the contrary very pleased 
 

 THE CHILDREN. 169 
 
 hear good accounts of him, and sorry when I hear the 
 everse. I am prepared also to exert myself, and do whatever 
 I am able to help in making him a useful member of society. 
 When I see and know him I shall probably take a deeper and 
 more loving interest in him. In the meantime it gives me 
 the greatest pleasure to hear how kind you and L. are to him ; 
 and to feel that he cannot possibly be better cared for and 
 more kindly treated than he is. You will, I think, be delighted 
 with our little girls, for they appear to me to have charming 
 manners, and are very loving and intelligent. I shall be very 
 anxious to hear what you think of them. I hope to collect my 
 family together, and be with them for two years, when I take 
 my furlough, to which I shall shortly be entitled, and of which 
 I shall avail myself when I have an opportunity. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 . Alipoee, January 8ih, 1870. 
 
 I HAVE received your letter in which you suggest that our 
 youngest daughter should be left at Etal Villa. I perceive 
 that you are rather afraid of so many children being too much 
 for you, and I am not astonished, although I think your 
 apprehensions will disappear when you see the children. I do 
 not think they will trouble you, if you are able to get a good 
 governess to look after them. It will be necessary probably 
 to increase your house-accommodation by building a room to 
 the south. You will then be able to cut them off from the rest 
 of the house, and L. will not be disturbed by their noise, if they 
 ever should become noisy. At present they are in capital 
 order, very obedient and affectionate, as you will see in a few 
 months. I should like, if possible, that they should be with 
 you, for I know they will be happy at Derwent Bank. I do 
 not like troubling mother with them, for I fancy she is not 
 strong enough to bear with their vivacity, or to keep them in 
 order, and I prefer England to France. I shall not hear from 
 you again in reply to this letter, before the children leave me, 
 so you and Annette must decide together what has to be done. 
 She will take the children to see you, and I hope will leave 
 them with you. If not, I shall not be annoyed, for I know 
 perfectly well how kind and good you are, especially to me, 
 and that if you do not keep the children, you have a very good 
 reason for not doing so. Please give my love to L. and thank 
 him for his very kind letter to me. 
 
170 LETTEKS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, February 1th, 1870. 
 I have just received your letter describing your journey 
 through the snow to Shields, and telling me how glad you will 
 be to see Annette and the three little girls. It is very kind of 
 you to consent to take charge of all of them ; it will be a great 
 consolation to me to think that they are with you, and certainly 
 well looked after. At the same time I hope you will not hesi- 
 tate, if you find them too troublesome, to let us know, so that we 
 may make other arrangements. I am firmly persuaded that 
 you will like them very much, for they are all pretty, lively, 
 intelligent, and loving, but three is a large number, and it is 
 possible to have too much of a good thing. I myself feel now 
 that I cannot have too much of them, but of course I am pre- 
 judiced in their favour. I can scarcely tell you how painful 
 the thought of being separated from them is to me. The pain 
 is not in the least lessened by .the consideration that I have 
 brought all this on myself, and that in leaving my home I 
 inflicted as much pain on those who loved me as I am now 
 suffering. Annette is not at all happy at the thought of being 
 away for several months. She is disposed to return immediately, 
 but I am anxious that she should not return before September. 
 I know that she will not consent to stay away after she has 
 taken the children to England. She will be so unhappy, that 
 she will at once hurry back to India, and so lose the advantage 
 of being away for a hot season. For this reason I wish her to 
 stay two or three months in Paris before going to England. 
 There she will be tolerably happy with the children and her 
 own relations. We were on board the " Mongolia " yesterday, and 
 saw the cabin which she will occupy. As a cabin it is a good 
 one, but it looked terribly dismal, and Annette's heart sank 
 when she saw it. The whole appearance of the lower deck was 
 far from engaging, and the " board-of-ship " smell gave her mat 
 au cceur. I daresay if we all had been going off together the 
 ship would have appeared more cheerful. Can you remember 
 Cowan, who lived at Dr. Lorimer's with me in 1851 ? He is 
 staying with us just now because he is very ill, and requires 
 looking after. I am very anxious about him, for I fear he has 
 abscess of the liver commencing. This is a very fatal disease. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER ISABELLA. 
 
 Alipore, Feb. 24th. 
 I have just received a very kind letter from you telling me 
 about our little boy's birthday, and giving such a good account 
 
FANCY BALL. , 171 
 
 of his character and intelligence. I certainly am very anxious to 
 make his acquaintance, and wish I could manage to get off with 
 Annette and the children. I am almost reconciled to the idea 
 of being separated from my children, by the thought that they 
 will be loved as much, and certainly looked after as well, if not 
 better, than if they were with me. It is, however, very hard 
 to part with them, and the rapid approach of the time for sepa- 
 ration makes me very sad. I think you will be pleased with 
 our little girls. They are considered pretty, but at their age it 
 is difficult to say what they will be. At present we can trace no 
 resemblance either to their father or mother. Perhaps, however, 
 you, who knew me so well at their ages, may be able to see a 
 likeness. They will not be able to talk to you in English when 
 you first see them, but they will soon learn enough to be able 
 to say all they require, for the vocabulary of a child is small. 
 My love to mother and my son, and many thanks for all your 
 kindness to the latter. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER ALICE. 
 
 Alipore, March 10th, 1870. 
 
 I have just received your letter dated Feb. 4th. It is quite 
 true that at the fancy ball I wore a dress similar to that which 
 Henry vm. is supposed to have worn. I was scarcely, however, 
 stout enough to personate the king whom you dislike so much. 
 It was not admiration of his character that induced me to wear 
 the costume, although I believe he was no worse than his con- 
 temporaries. My only reason for adopting the costume was 
 that it was the only one I could easily obtain at the last 
 moment when I decided to go to the ball. I should infinitely 
 have preferred not making a guy of myself, and only did so 
 because I wished Annette and a lady who was staying with us 
 to see the ball, which in truth we found very amusing and 
 perfect of its kind. Most of the costumes were very pretty, 
 and Lord Mayo looked particularly well as Lord Cornwallis. Our 
 present Governor-General appears to have a talent for arranging 
 pageants. He got up the investiture of the Duke with the Star 
 of India in grand style. I nfust say, however, that I think the 
 day for these displays has gone by, and when one comes to 
 think about them their absurdity is more striking than their 
 grandeur. An accident which occurred during the proceedings 
 had a very comical effect. There was not sufficient room to 
 wave the banner over the Prince's head, and in consequence his 
 hair was brushed three times over his eyes. 
 
 We all liked the Prince ; he is a first-rate, manly fellow, is 
 well educated, and does his work thoroughly. When he came 
 
1 72 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 to the jail he was very affable, and appeared to take much 
 interest in what I told him of the management of the jail and 
 of the prisoners. I gave him a, photograph as a souvenir of the 
 place. 
 
 Annette and the children left on the 1 st of March. You will 
 probably hear of their arrival in Paris before you receive this 
 letter. The parting, as you may imagine, was very sad, and re- 
 called vividly to my mind our parting in London eleven years 
 ago. As the steamer went off I heard the pretty voice of Trix 
 calling to me across the water to come with her, and felt inex- 
 pressibly sorrowful. Now I am beginning to get reconciled to 
 my solitary life, but the house appears terribly lonely. I am 
 anxiously waiting for a letter from Madras. As we have had 
 very fair weather here, I hope they have had a good voyage. 
 Annette will have so much trouble and anxiety with the children 
 that she will not have time for melancholy. As I told her, " La 
 tristesse est pour celui qui reste." 
 
 Constant occupation and moderate exercise, which I am 
 obliged to take, keep me in good health. 
 
 My love to L. and kisses for my son, of whom I am glad 
 to hear such good accounts. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, April 9th, 1870. 
 
 I HAVE received your letter telling me of the sort of religious 
 education you propose giving our children. I am quite of your 
 opinion that their minds should not be troubled with dogmas. 
 If they were with me, I should only teach them what I firmly 
 believed myself, and should carefully guard against their being 
 terrified by stories of hell and the devil. 
 
 As yet I have only heard from Aden, but I am anxiously look- 
 ing out for a letter from Suez. I am glad that you think of 
 teaching our little boy to swim, and think it would be well if 
 his sisters were taught to do so also. Costumes might be made 
 for them, and they might all be taught together. I dine out 
 a great deal just now. Last week I dined en famille with 
 the Lieutenant-Governor, and again with Sir Barnes Peacock, 
 the Chief-Justice. These dinner-parties are oppressive in hot 
 weather. It is a horrible Calcutta custom to prolong the dinner 
 with a succession of wines and dishes for two hours. The 
 Governor-General has gone to Simlah. He was very popular 
 until the Budget was read the other day, and now people are 
 beginning to speak against him, and they are absolutely furious 
 against Sir Bichard Temple, the Finance Minister. It is on 
 
TO THE SAME. 
 
 CALCUTTA LIFE. 173 
 
 account of the 3J per cent, income-tax, as this falls chiefly 
 on Europeans. The tax cannot be screwed out of the natives, 
 for they never tell the truth about their incomes. The tax is 
 equally unpopular with the natives, for they do not like paying- 
 money. Many will be unjustly over-taxed, but the majority 
 will escape. The former will be actively discontented, and the 
 
 ttter will pretend to be so. 
 Alipore, May llth, 1870. 
 
 By the time this letter reaches you I daresay you may have 
 seen, or at all events you will shortly see, our little girls. How 
 I wish I could be present also ! You can scarcely imagine how 
 I miss them, for I am immensely fond of them. They used to 
 come into my office at all times of the day. Their play and 
 talk never disturbed me. In fact I think I got on better with 
 my work when they were present than when I was alone. 
 Now I feel as if I had lost them for ever. When I see them 
 again they will be totally changed, and will not know me. It 
 is a great consolation to me to think that they will probably be 
 with you, and I long to hear what you think of them. You 
 must tell me truly. I would much rather myself suffer a dis- 
 appointment than that you should have your peace of mind 
 disturbed by a troublesome charge. I think you will like the 
 children, but it is possible that like other fathers I may not see 
 the defects of my children, and that they may not appear as 
 nice to you as to me. If this should unhappily be the case, 
 you must not hesitate to tell Annette. By the last mail, 
 although it brought English news up to the 15th April, I only 
 received news from Annette up to the 8th. I fancy she has 
 failed to make herself acquainted with the dates on which the 
 post for India is despatched. You think she ought to have 
 stayed in the south of France for a month. I wish she had done 
 so, for that would have delayed her return to India. I very 
 much fear that she may come out before the hot weather is 
 over, and so do away with the good which she would otherwise 
 derive from the change to Europe. I hope you will try to per- 
 suade her to remain until the middle of September. I am 
 miserable alone, but I endure this willingly for the sake of 
 the good which I hope her stay in Europe will do her. It is 
 terribly hot in Calcutta, and we shall probably have a very hot 
 summer. The crows and sparrows are all panting with their 
 beaks open, and no one leaves the house who can avoid it. I 
 have a great deal to do, and would much prefer taking it easy. 
 
174 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 Id this hot weather drinking iced water and smoking are the 
 most tempting occupations. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, June 18th, 1870. 
 I have received your kind letter, in which you tell me that 
 you intend going to London to meet Annette. It is very kind 
 of you to do so, and I am sure she will be delighted to see you. 
 Annette has certainly had a very troublesome time of it since 
 she left me. Misfortunes and annoyances seem to have been 
 heaped upon her. At first I used to look forward with impa- 
 tience for the arrival of the mail, now with dread, and when I 
 receive the letters I am afraid to open them, for fear that .they 
 may announce that the children have got small-pox, or that 
 some other dreadful calamity has fallen upon them. I shall 
 not feel happy until I hear that the children are comfortably 
 settled at Derwent Bank. There they will be well clear of all 
 infectious diseases, and I shall not fear any harm coming to 
 them from revolutions. It is very depressing to receive such 
 bad news of the children ; at this distance one feels so helpless. 
 It is useless even to give advice, for it is sure to arrive too late 
 to be of any use. I wish I could, as you suggest, get away in 
 autumn, and bring Annette back with me. I fear I must not 
 think of this, but it is impossible to say what may happen. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alipore, July 22 c?, 1870. 
 
 I received your kind letter, and the photograph of our little 
 boy and the donkey by the last mail. The boy appears wonder- 
 fully big and strong for his age. I have great difficulty in 
 forming a very definite idea of him. Photographs are excellent 
 as aids to recollection, but few of them are sufficiently complete 
 to enable one to form a picture in the mind of the person re- 
 presented, unless one has previously seen the individual. 
 
 I am very glad that you like the little boy, and that you 
 think well of him. I think you will like them all. I am 
 afraid sometimes that you may find them too noisy, but then I 
 remember that you have a big house, and that you can keep 
 them at a distance when you find them troublesome. I am 
 eagerly looking out for an account of their arrival at Derwent 
 Bank, and am anxious to hear how you like them, and what 
 you think of them. Beatrice is very good, thoughtful of others 
 and kind. She is my favourite, but chiefly because, being older, 
 I have known her longer, and time has strengthened my attach- 
 
WAR IN FRANCE. 175 
 
 ment to her. I am by no means cheerful when I think about 
 them, and suspect that I made a mistake in coming to India. 
 There is a prospect now, and this is cheering, that I shall be 
 able to retire before I am old. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, Aug. 18th, 1870. 
 
 I have received the letter announcing the arrival of my 
 family at Shields. My wife says that you are all very kind to 
 her, and that she is delighted with the manner in which you 
 have received her. I felt certain that she would meet with a 
 kind reception, but it is pleasing to me to hear of it. I am glad 
 you like the little girls. The other day I received their 
 portraits. As you may imagine, I often look at them, and think 
 how sad it is to be separated from them. I felt terribly losing 
 Trix, but the worst is over now, and I am pleased to think that 
 they are in a climate where they can be out all day long, and 
 be happy and healthy. I am surprised to hear that they struck 
 you as being so delicate ; we used to consider them remarkably 
 robust and strong, but then we compared them with Calcutta 
 children, whereas you see them alongside of the ruddy children 
 of East Northumberland. The sea-air I fancy will soon give 
 them a colour, and this will improve them immensely. 
 
 The telegrams of the war are intensely interesting. I hope 
 those Prussians will not overrun France. Is it not horrible to 
 think of their getting into Paris ? 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alipore, Aug. 2Qth, 1870. 
 
 Your letter written when Allie had gone to meet my family 
 at Shields was very welcome. I have not the least doubt that 
 the children will be as happy, as well cared for, and as well 
 educated with you and Allie, as they could be anywhere. I 
 am consequently delighted at your having undertaken the 
 charge, but fully understand that you have done so with the 
 proviso that they do not interfere with your comfort and 
 repose. If ever this occurs I expect you will let us know. I 
 am glad that you have agreed to build a story to the south 
 wing, for this will enable you better to keep the children at a 
 distance when troublesome. 
 
 As you may imagine, the news of the war in Europe is 
 intensely interesting to me. I am afraid France is in a very 
 bad way. The Prussians seem to be carrying everything before 
 them. I sympathise with the Frenchmen, and am sad when I 
 
176 LETTERS OF JAMES FA WCUS. 
 
 think of their humiliation. It appears to me that the two 
 nations are equally in the wrong ; they have both been prepar- 
 ing for and longing for the war. The penalty to both is terrible 
 to think of. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, Nov. llth, 1870. 
 Your letters of the 13th of October have just arrived, and 
 we are delighted to hear such a good account of the little girls. 
 I am so glad to see from your letter that Beatrice is " orderly, 
 and delights in helping" you. I think she is charming, and 
 believe that you will become exceedingly attached to her, and 
 she to you. Her thinking of us after so long a separation shows 
 that she is a very affectionate little child. Laura also, but in a 
 different way, is equally nice, more independent and careless 
 about sympathy, and less sensitive. The account of little Mary 
 is charming. It affected Annette so much that she could not 
 restrain her tears. You say that the French are infatuated not 
 to accept the terms Prussia offers. It appears to me that the 
 Prussians are equally infatuated not to accept the French offers, 
 and are moreover both cruel and criminal. The French are as it 
 were, in a corner ; they have to choose between civil war and 
 war with the enemy. The latter seems to me preferable. The 
 English, I feel sure, would not, in similar circumstances, insist 
 on the humiliation of a conquered enemy, and it is evident to me 
 that the Prussians are still strongly tinged with barbarism. 
 
 to the same. 
 
 Alipore, Nov. 1870. 
 It makes me sick to read in the German papers the attacks 
 on the French people, who are described as debauched, and so 
 wicked as to be only fit for extermination, and I wonder at 
 Englishmen repeating their fallacious reasons for pursuing their 
 horrid vengeance. Glad that you agree with me in thinking 
 that the Prussians should be prevented from destroying Paris. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alipore, Nov. 9th, 1870. 
 I have just received your long kind letter dated October 9th. 
 I can scarcely describe the pleasure I felt in reading your 
 description of the little children. Do not for an instant suppose 
 that I have any doubt of the judicious hygienic treatment they 
 would receive at Derwent Bank. When my wife was at Shields 
 she wrote begging me to write to you on the subject of cold 
 
ALIP0RE. 177 
 
 baths, and I simply complied with her request, but I think I 
 also said I had perfect faith in your treatment, and willingly 
 left all in your hands. If I did not say so, I meant it, and felt it. 
 I am delighted to hear that you find the children so engaging. 
 Your letter convinces me that you take a great interest in them, 
 and that you will become attached to them. I sometimes fear 
 that the anxiety of looking after them will be too much for 
 Allie, and these fears are confirmed by your statement that 
 she is losing flesh. It makes me very unhappy to think that 
 she is exerting herself beyond her strength, and I hope you 
 will prevent her from doing so. I do not think now there is 
 any cause for anxiety. The children have all good constitutions, 
 and as regards external circumstances could not be better off 
 than at Derwent Bank. Allie should not exert herself; she 
 should have all the assistance she requires, and merely superin- 
 tend. Please tell Allie that I have received her kind letter, 
 but as Annette is writing to her to-day, I will defer replying 
 until next mail. Allie asks if anything can be done for my wife's 
 parents in Paris, but it is clear that nothing can be done for 
 them. They would not leave, even if they could. They are 
 very old, and would rather die than leave the place where they 
 have lived all their lives. I still hope that the French will be 
 victorious, and that little harm will be done to Paris. The 
 King and Bismarck made a mistake and committed a crime in 
 refusing to make peace after Sedan, and I think they will be 
 punished. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Alipore, Nov. 20th, 1870. 
 I think it right that I should tell you before any one else 
 of my good fortune in having been appointed Inspector-General 
 of Jails. It is not only right that I should impart this news to 
 you first, but it is also my natural inclination to do so, for I 
 feel that no one will be more pleased to hear of my success, 
 and there is no one whom I am more delighted to please. I 
 am always grateful for all you have done for me, and the long 
 years we have been separated have not diminished my strong 
 filial affection for you. My inclination has always been to 
 return to England and see you, but I think that, for the sake of 
 my wife and children, I was right in not yielding to it. Now I 
 have an assured position, and shall be able to pay you frequent 
 visits during the remainder of my service in India. The work 
 I have to do now is of a responsible nature, but not so hard as 
 hitherto. You will have some idea of this when I tell you that 
 there are about sixty prisons under my direction. Shortly I 
 
 M 
 
178 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 shall have to undertake a tour through Bengal and Assam ; 
 and as we have no children here now, my wife will accompany 
 me. To me travelling will be especially pleasant as a change, 
 after having led a somewhat monotonous and hard-worked life 
 at Calcutta for so many years. 
 
 We receive good accounts of our children, and consider our- 
 selves very fortunate in having them in such good hands. I 
 sometimes fear that they will be too much for Allie, and that 
 she will be wearing herself out with anxiety. Fortunately 
 Margaret has gone to help her. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alipore, Nov. 22d, 1870. 
 ... I have have just time to write you a few lines to tell 
 you of my good fortune in having been appointed Inspector- 
 General of Jails. The appointment generally gives satisfaction, 
 but of course I must expect a certain amount of jealousy, as I 
 am junior to many of the officers who will act under me. 1 
 
 1 " No one acquainted with the progress of the Bengal Jail Department 
 during the past five years will learn with surprise that Dr. Fawcus has been 
 appointed to succeed Dr. Mouat as Inspector-General of Jails ; nor will any- 
 one so informed doubt that the Lieutenant-Governor has exercised a sound 
 judgment in the selection. Apart from the extraordinary development which 
 the Alipore Jail has undergone in Dr. Fawcus's hands, and the perfect 
 knowledge of detail, as well as the governing faculty implied in such success 
 as he has achieved, he has been for several years Deputy-Inspector-General 
 of Jails, and has officiated in the principal office. This position in itself 
 includes a natural claim to the higher post, the recognition of which gives a 
 stimulating hope to every officer of the Jail Department. 
 
 " It is only quite lately that a Jail Department could be said to exist in the 
 sense of a body of officers devoting themselves to the service of the jails, and 
 relinquishing, with that object, all other prospects ; and as there can be no 
 reasonable doubt of the material advantages which have followed this 
 organisation, so is it desirable that permanent efficiency be secured, by 
 enabling incumbents to feel that their labour is not devoid of fruit to them- 
 selves that they have, as other branches of the service have, a future before 
 them. On the first creation of special departments it is often inevitable that 
 men should be selected for their government on grounds of general ability 
 and probable fitness, who are without special experience of the work before 
 them. Even later it is occasionally found expedient to postpone the nascent 
 claims of incumbents to outside merit of exceptional kind. The Jail 
 Department is fortunate in having produced in its infancy an officer of rare 
 and well-attested fitness to administer its affairs, and so, by the precedent, 
 establishing a succession of preferment within its ranks ; fortunate also in 
 the opportunity having occurred under the Government of Sir William Grey, 
 with whom no opinion or consideration prevails that has not the public good 
 for its aim and foundation." From the Calcutta Englishman. 
 
ALIPORE. 
 
 179 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Alipore, Nov. 23d, 1870. 
 . . . Your charming letter dated 19th October has just 
 arrived, and I feel forced to write and thank you for it. I see 
 that you fully appreciate Beatrix's good qualities, and that you 
 will soon love her almost as much as I do. I am glad Margaret 
 is with you. Our uproarious little family require a great deal 
 of looking after, and would be too much for you alone. As 
 you do not think it necessary to build the other wing to 
 Derwent Bank, I have another improvement to suggest. a 
 large bath-room with a stone floor, and a stove to keep it warm 
 and free from draughts of cold air. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE LAST LETTERS FROM INDIA. 
 
 The fame is quench'd that I foresaw ; 
 
 The head hath missed an earthly wreath." 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Alifore, Jan. lltJi, 1871. 
 
 . . . For the last month I have been in a very unhappy con- 
 dition with my spleen. On Sunday last I tried a change of 
 air. Annette and I went off to Serampore, the old Danish 
 settlement, and headquarters of the Baptist missionaries, and 
 editors of The Friend, the old enemies of the East India Com- 
 pany. 
 
 We found very comfortable quarters in an hotel on the banks 
 of the Hooghli. The change was very pleasing, and did me a 
 little good. The views from our verandah up and down the 
 river were very fine, especially towards sunrise and sunset. 
 The wind was refreshing, and the sight of boats of all descrip- 
 tions, passing rapidly up and down the river with the tide, very 
 cheerful. In my weak state it was a pleasure to sit in the 
 verandah watching these. We explored the town on foot, and 
 were interested in seeing the curious old Danish buildings. 
 This, however, rather exhausted me. We also went out several 
 times in a boat, crossed over to Barrackpore, where there is a 
 small zoological garden, and a lot of tigers. We left Alipore on 
 Saturday and returned on Monday. My appetite, which had 
 almost gone, has returned to a certain extent, and I have re- 
 gained a little of my colour. But this change is not enough, and 
 I intend now to go by steamer to Juggernath, which is on the 
 sea-coast, a charming place, where there is always a tremendous 
 surf, which renders bathing safe, as the sharks avoid it. 
 
 There are a lot of curious old temples at Juggernath, and the 
 scenery to the south is very fine, mountains, lakes, and sea 
 being all there. I am looking forward to this trip eagerly, as I 
 
GOBALPORE. 181 
 
 feel sure that it will restore me to health, and fill my veins with 
 red blood instead of yellow, which, to judge by my complexion, 
 appears to be the colour of the little I have at present. I con- 
 gratulate myself on not having fallen sick before getting my 
 present appointment. Now I can treat myself to a change of 
 air, which I could not do formerly. You may imagine that our 
 home is not very cheerful at present. We miss our children, 
 and Annette cries when she thinks of Paris. . . . 
 
 Give my love to Allie, and kisses to the children. Thank 
 Margaret for her attention to them. 
 
 TO HIS SISTEK. 
 
 Gobalpore, Feb. 3d, 1871. 
 I have been here a week doing little else but breathing the 
 sea-air, and watching the big waves break on the shore. For 
 the last two months I have had too much to do, as I kept charge 
 of the jail, in addition to my own appointment. At last I 
 found I was quite incapable of doing the work, so I went to the 
 Lieutenant-Governor, who saw at once how ill I was, and 
 relieved me of the charge of the jail. The next day Annette 
 and I started in a coasting steamer, and arrived here in three 
 days. I cannot say that I am much better for the change as 
 yet, although nearly all the symptoms from which I suffered in 
 Calcutta are less severe, and I have got a little colour, which I 
 had completely lost. My chief complaint now is want of 
 appetite, but this is a very serious one, for it prevents me from 
 getting strong. I seem to get weaker daily, and I am losing 
 weight very fast. As, however, I am better in most respects, I 
 hope my appetite will return, and then I shall soon be all right. 
 We are living in a very comfortable house, which has been 
 placed at my disposal, with all that we require in the way of 
 eating and drinking, by the friend of a friend of a friend of mine 
 in Calcutta. I mention this to show how hospitable the gentle- 
 man is, for I am a perfect stranger to him. The house is well 
 situated on high land, well exposed to the sea-air. The 
 verandah in front overlooking the sea is charming, and it is 
 there that we pass the greater part of the day. I have read 
 two novels since I came here, the Antiquary and Redgauntlet. 
 I found them in this house, and as I am incapable of work, I 
 thought I should like to see if the former would interest me as 
 much as it did when I was at Gale Cottage with you. I dare- 
 say you will guess that I found it terribly dry and long-winded ; 
 I think I could only have got through it in a place like this, 
 where I have only my wife to talk to, no books and nothing to 
 do. There are only two good houses at Gobalpore, this and the 
 
182 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 hotel, which was built many years ago by a ship captain. He 
 lived in this house with his daughter for many years, and made 
 money by trade. His daughter survived him, and lived a 
 solitary life here for forty years. She had 100,000, but did 
 not care to go to Europe. At the age of ninety she died. The 
 exports of this place are rum, sugar, and gingelly seed. I dare- 
 say you do not know what the latter is, so I shall enclose a 
 little in this letter that you may see it. Usually large quantities 
 are exported from here and from other ports on the Madras 
 coast to Marseilles to make oil, but on account of the war the 
 exports are much diminished this year. A wretched little place 
 like Gobalpore, you see, is even affected by this horrible war. 
 We are far away from newspapers and telegrams, so I know 
 little about the war. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Berricol, Feb. IZth. 
 If it were not for the sea Gobalpore would be a very dreary 
 place. For some considerable distance inland there is little 
 verdure, and the land is a collection of high sandhills, which 
 frequently change their position in storms. About fifteen miles 
 inland there are wooded mountains about 5000 feet high, but 
 these are generally too hazy to improve the landscape. After 
 being a week at Gobalpore, and finding little improvement in 
 my health, and increasing weakness (I was losing 1 lb. per diem), 
 I felt somewhat disheartened and tired of the place, so I sent 
 for bearers, and we started in the direction of Juggernath. We 
 had twenty-four bearers for our two palkees a torch-bearer, 
 and a bearer to carry our luggage. We set set off at a tremen- 
 dous pace for palkee-bearers, and kept this up for several miles 
 the bearers screaming, yelling, and laughing. The jolting was 
 alarming. I seemed sometimes to be midway between the 
 floor and roof of the palkee. This jolting seems to have done 
 me good, for on arriving at the end of our first stage, at six 
 o'clock in the morning, I felt that I walked with a firmer step 
 than I had had for a month. The place we arrived at is called 
 Eumba. It is situated at the head of a large salt-water lake, 
 called the Chilka Lake. It is a most charming place ; the shores 
 are wooded to the water, but as the water is salt there are no 
 rushes, and the edge of the lake is well defined. Near the lake 
 there are numbers of small wooded hills, like Fawe Park, and in 
 the distance high mountains, covered with trees and jungle. 
 At Eumba there is a magnificent house in a somewhat ruinous 
 condition. There we put up for the day, but were not very 
 comfortable, as there was no furniture in the house. The house 
 
JUGGERNATH. 183 
 
 contains twenty-four rooms ; there is stabling for fifty horses, 
 and lots of outhouses and buildings after the old Indian fashion, 
 which is now out of date. It was built by a Commissioner, an 
 Indian civilian, who appears to have been an out-and-out 
 rascal. He spent a great deal of money on it, getting marble 
 floors, chandeliers, and expensive furniture from Calcutta at 
 great original cost, as well as cost of carriage. The money he 
 spent, however, was not his own. He collected the revenue of 
 the district, but of this none found its way into the Government 
 treasury. He was repeatedly asked why he sent in no collected 
 revenue, and his reply was that he spent it on improving the 
 roads of his district. At last it was discovered that he was 
 sending large sums to England ; an inquiry was held, and he 
 was dismissed. He afterwards lived in London in grand style. 
 There are no such Indian civilians now-a-days, but a long time 
 ago there were many like this man. The position in which the 
 house is built shows that he had taste, and appreciated fine 
 scenery. The views from the house in all directions are very 
 fine. Four enormous wild monkeys have taken possession of 
 the ruined kitchens. Annette was afraid they might attack us, 
 and I felt that we were in their power, for I was too weak to 
 offer anything but the feeblest resistance. We intended to go to 
 Juggernath across the lake, but as I found the boat small, un- 
 comfortable, and without any cover, and that we should be two 
 or three days on the water, I did not think it advisable to risk 
 the chance of catching a severe fever, which would certainly 
 kill me in my present condition. Neither would I think of 
 exposing Annette to such hardship. We therefore commenced 
 our journey round the lake in our palkees. It is too hot to 
 travel by day, although it is exceedingly pleasant and cool in 
 the shade. Last night we travelled eighteen miles skirting the 
 lake, along a very good road. The lake was to our right, and 
 to our left mountains covered with forest and jungle. This 
 jungle began at the road-side, and is said to be full of bears, 
 tigers, and leopards. By the shores of the lake, and on its 
 islands, there are lots of spotted deer, and deer of other sorts, 
 and numbers of pea-fowl, and on the lake millions of wild ducks 
 and flamingoes. I find I am getting too tired to write, and am 
 making a mess of my letter, so I will finish it another day. 
 
 Cuttack, Feb. We arrived here last night, and I feel exceed- 
 ingly glad to be in a civilised place, where I can get the sort of 
 diet I require. Our intention was to go to Juggernath first, 
 but we found it more convenient to come here, when we arrived 
 at a olace distant thirty miles. 
 
 Feby. 10th. The next post for England leaves to-day, almost 
 
184 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 immediately, so I must finish my letter. Since coming to 
 Cuttack my health has improved immensely. This morning I 
 absolutely had an appetite for breakfast, and ate more than I 
 have eaten at any one meal for two months. Now I think I 
 shall be soon quite well. Weakness and slight fever are all 
 that I suffer from now. You must bear in mind the state I am 
 in, and excuse the confusion and bad writing of this letter. 
 To-night we start for Pooree (Juggernath), and expect to find 
 letters there, and I hope there will be one from Keswick. I 
 often think about the family at Derwent Bank, and feel very 
 happy that the children are in your hands. Annette joins 
 with me in love. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHEE. 
 
 Midnapore, Feby. 2lst, 1871. 
 You have no doubt seen the letter I sent to Allie by the last 
 mail, so it will be useless for me to give you the same account. 
 I shall tell you therefore how we have fared since we left 
 Cuttack. One night in the palkees took us to Juggernath, or 
 Pooree, as it is usually called. By the way we saw numbers 
 of pilgrims from all parts of India, who were going there to be 
 cheated and ruined by the priests who inhabit the temple. The 
 poor people, when all their money is spent, are induced to give 
 bonds, which are carefully and certainly exacted afterwards. 
 Often they have not sufficient money to return, and in con- 
 sequence die in numbers by the way. There is no remedy for 
 this, of course, but education, and I think it probable, although I 
 do not know it for a fact, that the numbers of pilgrims are yearly 
 diminishing. Pooree is by the sea-side, very sandy, and the 
 surf the same as everywhere on the east coast of India. The 
 great Juggernath temple is exactly like a sugar-loaf squared 
 and grooved. We saw it when w T e were five or six miles from 
 Pooree, and it appeared, in the early morning, quite near. Euro- 
 peans are not allowed to see the interior, but we could see quite 
 enough to satisfy us by looking in at the door. It is surrounded 
 by a wall, and in the enclosure the car is kept. There was 
 nothing beautiful to be seen. Hindoo architects seem to delight 
 in the hideous and the horrible. Their grotesque is not even 
 comic. The figures seem to be carved with the intention of 
 terrifying the ignorant worshippers and bringing them into such 
 a frame of mind as to be at the mercy of the priests. We only 
 stayed a night at Pooree, as I was anxious on account of my 
 health to return to a dry climate. On returning we stayed two 
 days at Cuttack, and then started for a place called Balasore, 
 which is two nights from Cuttack. By the way we saw canals 
 
CALCUTTA. 
 
 which have been constructed with the intention of rendering 
 another famine impossible. It is said that even in their incom- 
 plete state they have this year saved many square miles of 
 crops. We rested a night at Balasore, and then pursued our 
 journey to this place, which is two nights from Balasore. We 
 always travelled by night, as the days are too hot. During the 
 day we rested in little houses called dak bungalows, consisting 
 of two rooms and two bath-rooms. There is also a resident 
 cook, who provides chickens, eggs, milk, curry, and rice. These 
 Annette and I used to eat with an appetite, for although the 
 voyage is fatiguing we are both deriving benefit from it. Now 
 we are at Midnapore, living in a grand house with the judge 
 whom I knew in Calcutta, and the comfort and repose which I 
 now enjoy, I think, will do me much good. On arriving here 
 we received a telegram saying that Annette's friends in Paris 
 are all safe. You may imagine with what joy this telegram 
 was received by us. We had had no news for five months. 
 Annette joins with me in love to you and Isabella. 
 
 bTO L. 
 Midnapore, Feb. 21st, 1871. 
 As Annette is writing to you, I also will write a short note to 
 enclose with hers. Your letters give Annette the intensest 
 delight, but she cannot read them without tears. I also am so 
 weak now that I am as much affected by your letters as she is, 
 and I can scarcely think of the children without actually weep- 
 ing. At one time I scarcely expected to recover, and I am sure 
 I have had a very narrow escape. I had absolutely no appetite, 
 and was losing at the rate of one pound per diem. I was also 
 so weak that I could scarcely walk. A sudden change to a dry 
 climate brought back my appetite by degrees, and I was thus 
 saved. I was on the point of returning to Calcutta by steamer, 
 and this I feel now almost certainly would have killed me. I 
 felt that it mattered little whether I went by sea or by land, so 
 I stuck to my original intention. Your teaching, I think, had 
 something to do with leading me to this decision. In our Cum- 
 berland journeys you remember we did not turn back, unless 
 the obstacle was almost insuperable. From you I have learnt 
 the habit of completing the programme, and I think my life in 
 this instance has thus been saved. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Calcutta, March 1st, 1871. 
 I write you a very short note, but I daresay you will 
 be better pleased to receive it than any I have written since I 
 
186 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 left England twelve years ago. Although I am doing well, the 
 doctors here say that it will be unsafe for me to remain 
 during the hot weather in India. It is therefore decided that I 
 must leave for Europe as soon as possible, and I have taken my 
 passage by the first steamer that leaves Calcutta, which is on 
 the 8th of this month. I expect to be delayed en route, for it 
 will not be safe to go straight to England, before habituating 
 myself to the cold. You may feel certain, however, that we 
 shall have the great pleasure of meeting in April. 
 
 ' TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Calcutta, March 7 th, 1871. 
 This letter, as it will go by Bombay, will probably reach you 
 a week before I arrive at Marseilles. We sail to-morrow, and 
 although I wished to remain here working for two years, on 
 the whole I am not sorry to be compelled to pay you all a visit. 
 One great cause of joy to me is the pleasure which I know the 
 thought of seeing me soon will give mother. I cannot say that 
 I am decidedly better, but I think I am no worse. I have 
 fever every day between ten and two, and every night perspire 
 tremendously. These two causes prevent me gaining strength. 
 Write to Poste Bestante, Marseilles, and I shall write to you from 
 that place as soon as I arrive. I hope I shall be in a fit state 
 to enjoy a summer in England. 
 
 P.S. Written during an ague-fit, so please excuse mistakes. 
 
CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 LAST LETTERS. 
 
 " I will come back to you when all ray wanderings are over." Old Letter. 
 
 ** And all is well, though Faith and Form 
 Be sundered in the night of fear." In Memoriam. 
 
 TO HIS MOTHER. 
 
 Marseilles, April 6 th, 1871. 
 On the 4th, your birthday, we drank the health of her 
 whom we think the best woman in the world. We wished you 
 many happy returns of the day, and hope that in future we 
 may spend many of the anniversaries with you. We arrived 
 here to-day, and I went at once to the post-office to look for 
 letters, but there was not one, neither from Keswick nor Shields. 
 This was a disappointment, but I hope to hear soon. I have 
 improved immensely in health and general appearance since 
 leaving India, but I still suffer from fever from 8 to 12 am., 
 and I am in consequence somewhat afraid to go too quickly 
 into a cold climate. I feel undecided as to what I shall do, 
 but probably we shall stay here for a few days, and then go on 
 to Geneva. My plans are however very uncertain. I have 
 made several, but cannot decide on any. We are impatient to 
 proceed homewards, and wish that this wretched fever would 
 disappear and allow us to do so. 
 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Marseilles, April 8th, 1871. 
 No doubt you have heard of our arrival from mother, to whom 
 I wrote yesterday. We arrived just in time to avoid the small 
 revolution, and we feel comfortable and secure here. We have 
 two cheerful rooms in a very nice hotel. The diet suits me, 
 and is even a great treat after that of the steamer. We have 
 had calm weather all the way from Calcutta to Marseilles, and 
 
188 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 it was neither hot in the Eed Sea nor cold in the Mediter- 
 ranean. In passing through the Canal I felt a decided improve- 
 ment in my health. I ceased to suffer from depression, my 
 colour improved, and I gained flesh ; but I still suffered from 
 ague every day ; in fact the attacks are as violent as they have 
 ever been, and I also suffer from a lot of little ailments, depen- 
 dent on the condition of my spleen. I am consequently afraid 
 to move northwards too rapidly, for I feel the cold very much, 
 and a chill is sufficient to bring on a fit of ague. Before leaving 
 Calcutta I told the Lieutenant-Governor that I hoped to be 
 back again in eight months ; and I think I shall be able to keep 
 my promise, but as regards this, I shall be able to judge better 
 in a month. I should like to be able to spend as much of our 
 time as possible at Keswick. I know you will wish us to live 
 with you, but we are determined not to derange in any way 
 your household arrangements. 
 
 With love from Annette and myself, to you and Allie, etc. 
 
 P.S. Annette remarks that I have said nothing about the 
 children. Please tell them that papa and mamma will be with 
 them soon. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Marseilles, April 9th, 1871. 
 I wrote to L. two days ago, but I feel doubtful if my letters 
 arrive at their destination. It is extremely probable that 
 letters from England do not reach this place, for .1 have no 
 doubt some of you have written to me. I find now that Mar- 
 seilles does not agree with me, for the attacks of ague are not 
 less severe, and last night I had an extra one. We have fixed 
 to start for Geneva via Lyons to-morrow, and I intend looking 
 for some dry place in the neighbourhood. We shall not how- 
 ever go any great distance from Geneva. Please therefore 
 address to P.-B., Geneva. You may be sure that I do not like 
 hanging about in these regions, and that I am very anxious to see 
 you all, and the dear children, but I am afraid of the cold at 
 present, and I am so weak that I can scarcely walk. Neverthe- 
 less I am not unhappy. Annette looks after me ; I have a good 
 appetite, and I vegetate in a quiet way. Our old friend A. C. 
 must have felt somewhat as I do, when he said, " I feel like 
 a fungus." We wish to spend as much of our six months as 
 possible near you ; and should like you to hire two good rooms 
 for us. We know that you will be opposed to this at first, but 
 consideration will show you that there is not room at Derwent 
 Bank. As it is, you are very much pressed for room. Annette 
 joins me in love to you both. She is very busy all day long, 
 and has little time to write. 
 
LONDON. 189 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Geneva, April 2 1st, 1871. 
 I have now received several letters from you and Allie, which 
 have followed me about from place to place. When I found no 
 letters for me at Marseilles, I never for one moment suspected 
 that none had been sent to me, but at once came to the con- 
 clusion that the disturbed state of France had caused this mis- 
 carriage. We were delighted to receive several very kind let- 
 ters from you and Allie, and to hear such good accounts of the 
 children. We long to see them, and I am very impatient to be 
 in England. The weather here is abominable, it rains almost 
 constantly, and the north wind, la bise, is almost unendurable. 
 At Montreux the weather was warm, but for the last three days 
 that we were there it rained constantly ; we could not go out, 
 and from our windows we saw nothing but rain and clouds. 
 This state of weather hastened our departure, and now our 
 intention is to proceed to London, via Germany (Basle, etc.) 
 My health is much improved, but I am very weak and indolent. 
 Beading even is a labour to me, and I sometimes sit for an hour 
 at a time doing absolutely nothing. Annette frequently reads 
 to me, and this I like. The hotel we are living in is charmingly 
 situated. From our window we have a fair view of the lake. 
 The Rhone absolutely washes the foundations of the hotel. I 
 enjoy the sight of the clear and rapid stream, and am fond of 
 watching the swans and ducks swimming about in it. With 
 love to Allie, and kisses for the children, etc. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 London, May 3d, 1871. 
 We shall soon see you now, for I am anxious to get on to 
 Shields, and am only waiting on account of some business at 
 the India Office. Our journey across the north of France was a 
 very pleasant one. The country is most beautiful, and traces 
 of the war are scarcely to be noticed, unless looked for. There 
 were too many Prussian soldiers about to please Annette, but I 
 daresay their presence rendered our journey secure. We tra- 
 velled by day always, and generally not more than six hours 
 per day, but sometimes the trains were delayed for a few hours. 
 The hotels generally were well filled, but we always obtained 
 rooms easily. The day travelling, and seeing the towns which 
 we stayed at, generally occupied our whole time. I have made 
 most rapid progress towards recovery, and consider myself 
 almost well. I feel perfectly so, but my body is much emaci- 
 
1 90 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 ated, and I am still unsteady upon my legs, on account of 
 weakness. The hollows in my face are rapidly filling up, and 
 sometimes I have a fair amount of colour. Our lodgings are 
 very comfortable, but the dimness of the sky and the smoki- 
 ness of the air appear to me very dismal, and I shall not be sorry 
 to be in a clear atmosphere again. 
 
 With love to L., and kisses to the children, whom I long to 
 embrace, etc. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER ISABELLA. 
 
 London, May 3d, 1871. 
 We have been travelling at such a rate, and have had so 
 much to see and do, that I have not had time to reply to your 
 kind letter until now. You see we have followed your advice, 
 and lost no time on the way. I also intend trying your pre- 
 scription with respect to diet, for I have an excellent appetite. 
 We arrived here yesterday afternoon, having enjoyed our jour- 
 ney from Boulogne, which was like a pleasure trip, exceedingly. 
 It was a great treat to me to see English fields, trees, and cattle 
 again. I shall write and tell you when to expect us, as soon as 
 I know myself. I feel quite well now, but I am thin and 
 weak. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER ALICE. 
 
 Kensington, June 1st, 1871. 
 It is evident to me now that warmth is what I require to put 
 me all right. I regret leaving London when it is so pleasant, 
 and where there is so much to see, but I fancy it is too cold 
 for me yet. On returning to England I hope to spend some 
 time in London, and that you will meet us there and stay with 
 us. I reported and showed myself to Sir Eanald Martin to-day. 
 This I am bound by the rules of the service to do. He told me 
 that he thought I should have to stay over the winter. I 
 require his permission before returning to India. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Boulogne-sur-Mer, June tth. 
 We arrived here last evening after a very pleasant journey 
 both by land and sea. The last day of our stay in London was 
 very disagreeable. There was a cold north-east wind, which 
 gave me ague almost the moment I felt it, and I was conse- 
 quently obliged to pass the greater portion of the day in the 
 house. We intend leaving Boulogne to-morrow, and shall pro- 
 bably stay for a day or two at Amiens, but as this is uncertain, 
 
PARIS. 191 
 
 lo not write to me until I give you an address. I do not like 
 losing letters. I feel that I have done quite right in leaving 
 England, and think that it would have been better if I had 
 come to Trance at once, instead of going to Buxton, which is 
 really an awfully cold place. With kisses for our little ones, 
 and love to L., etc. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Hotel de l'Empereur Joseph, 
 Eue du Tournon, Paris, June 9th, 1871. 
 
 I know you will feel anxious about me now that I am 
 in Paris, therefore I hasten to assure you that there is not the 
 slightest danger. The stench, if it ever existed to any extent, 
 has completely disappeared. Newspaper agents cannot be 
 trusted; the temptation to write sensationally is too strong. 
 I am delighted with Paris ; it is much more beautiful than 
 when you and I saw it together fourteen years ago. It is true 
 that I have not yet seen the Champs Elysees and the portions 
 of the city which are said to be in the worst state ; but in com- 
 ing here from the railway station we crossed Paris from one 
 side to the other, going through the heart of the city. We saw 
 several houses of which the interiors were completely burnt ; 
 the good stone walls seem to have resisted the fire very well. 
 The Hotel de Ville is a sad sight, but its blackened walls still 
 stand. Marks of rifle-bullets are visible on many of the houses, 
 and glaziers are to be seen everywhere plying their trade. 
 Most of the windows in this house were broken by the explo- 
 sion which took place in the Palais de Luxembourg. We are 
 in the healthiest part of Paris, well raised. All the streets in 
 the neighbourhood are kept beautifully clean. The halayeurs 
 commence their work at half-past three a.m. The weather is 
 mild, but there is a little too much rain to be agreeable. I 
 cannot say that I am much better, but I think I shall be so 
 after a few days' repose. 
 
 We are always talking about our dear little children, and 
 feel so happy at knowing they are so well with you, and this 
 reconciles us in a great measure to the separation. With love 
 to you both, and kisses to the children, etc. 
 
 TOL. 
 
 . Paris, June 22d, 1871. 
 I have not written to you regarding my health, because hither- 
 to I have had nothing definite to say on the subject. Since I 
 
1 92 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 came to Paris, the improvement has been slow but decided. 
 The night-perspirations became less frequent, and at last dis- 
 appeared altogether. I never now have an attack of ague more 
 than once a day, and the attacks are much less severe. The 
 pulse is never more than 108, and is sometimes as low as 88. My 
 complexion is much clearer, and I feel stronger and more 
 cheerful. Two days ago I walked the whole length of the Eue 
 Vivienne, and twice round the Palais-Eoyal, and yesterday we 
 went to St. Maur, a village about twelve miles from Paris, 
 where Annette's parents are living. We went by rail, but had 
 also about a mile to walk. I was obliged to give up the vapour- 
 baths after the third; they were too unpleasant. Every bath 
 I took was more difficult to support than the preceding, and the 
 unpleasant effects lasted longer. My appetite is excellent still; 
 I eat lots of fruit and vegetables, which are exceedingly good 
 here, and I drink a bottle of Medoc every day. 
 
 Yesterday in going to St. Maur, which is beyond Vincennes, 
 we passed through the quartier St. Antoine, and the t Place de 
 la Bastille. Many of the houses showed evidence of hard 
 lighting, but few were completely destroyed. The Pillar was 
 perforated in many places by cannon-balls, but it has sustained 
 no serious damage. The Hotel de Ville is the greatest loss to 
 Paris. Even in ruins it is a fine building. The outside wall 
 has sustained wonderfully little injury, considering the state of 
 the interior. Annette joins in love. 
 
 P.S. I am glad to hear that you are preparing to build. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Paris, June 28th, 1871. 
 Eor the last few days I have not been very well. The 
 weather has been somewhat cold, and I caught inflammation of 
 the windpipe, which increased my fever and gave rise to a very 
 unpleasant cough. I am better now, but somewhat weakened 
 by the attack. I must expect occasional relapses, and be satis- 
 fied with a gradual improvement. My complexion is now 
 whiter and clearer than it has been since I left England years 
 ago. This I regard as a good sign. As I am doing well at 
 Paris, I do not feel inclined to make any change. Farther 
 south the climate is no doubt too hot, and I am afraid to return 
 to England. Annette and T would both like to be at Shields 
 when you and the children are there, but I am afraid of the 
 climate, and am getting sick of the bustle of railway stations, 
 seeing boxes packed and looked after, etc. "Leave well alone" is 
 my motto at present. I am getting on tolerably well at Paris, 
 and like the city. Quietude agrees with me. Please excuse 
 
PARIS. 193 
 
 this long stupid letter that I write to you about myself. Your 
 very kind letters of inquiry and advice, which show the inter- 
 est you take in my health, induce me to write more freely 
 about myself than I otherwise would do. The garc,on here tells 
 me that the Due d'Aumale is in our hotel en haut We were 
 thinking that the hotel was scarcely clean enough in some re- 
 spects for us. It appears that one of the Eoyal Family of 
 France is less particular. 
 
 The doctor here has treated lots of cases similar to mine com- 
 ing from Algeria, and I perceive that he understands them. He 
 told me that the cold douche on the spleen was the treatment 
 for my case. The effect of the first douche was certainly start- 
 ling, and nearly knocked me down. That day the fever was 
 delayed three hours, and I had a very slight cold stage. On 
 the second day I had only a slight feeling of cold about the 
 spleen, where the douche had been directed. On the third day 
 I had no cold at all, and the fever was much diminished in 
 intensity. . I feel now as if I were going to recover. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER. 
 
 Paris, July 5th. 
 Several of my friends from London have been here lately. 
 They all say that the climate of Paris is infinitely better than 
 that of England, and strongly advise me to remain here until I 
 get quite strong. When that will be it is difficult to say. In 
 the meantime I hope you will pay us a visit, and the sooner 
 you do so the better pleased we shall be. We go to Auteuil 
 to-morrow, where we have taken " un appartement." I am sure 
 you will enjoy the trip. Auteuil is close to the Bois de Boulogne, 
 and pleasantly situated. Annette hopes that you will not be 
 long in deciding to come. If you come only for a week, you 
 will enjoy the change, and it will do you good, but we hope you 
 will stay longer. I am very anxious for you to come, for unless 
 you do, I do not know when I shall see you. For your 
 own sake too I think you should come, for I think you require 
 a holiday. With love to mother and Isabella, etc. 
 
 P.S. I return the plan of the new room. All I ha.ve to say 
 is that I think there ought to be two windows, as at the other 
 side of the house. The windows may be made to open like 
 doors. 
 
 TO THE SAME. 
 
 Auteuil, July 25th, 1871. 
 I have just had a solitary walk along the Rue Michel Ange, 
 to warm me after my bath. The wind was strong and in gusts, 
 
 # N 
 
194 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 and I thought of you and the Channel. I hope however that 
 there may be less wind at Boulogne. Do not forget to write 
 soon. I am anxious to know the effect of your trip to Paris. 
 
 TO L. 
 
 Etal Villa, August 13th, 1871. 
 I cannot tell you much about myself. Progress is slow and 
 uncertain. I certainly feel clearer about the head, and have 
 more blood than formerly, but I have lost seven pounds in 
 weight during the last two months. As regards horseback 
 exercise, I am afraid it will be long before I am able to mount. 
 Carriage exercise is even too much for me, and I feel great 
 fatigue after sitting for an hour without support to my back. 
 I am glad to see Allie looking so well. The children gave her 
 the heartiest welcome, which pleased me very much to see. 
 
 TO HIS SISTER ISABELLA. 1 
 
 Calcutta, Dec. 16th, 1864. 
 I was sorry to hear such a bad account of our nephew 
 George's health. I do not think that you can reasonably re- 
 proach yourself for having encouraged him to go to New Zea- 
 land. The climate of New Zealand is excellent for persons 
 with his hereditary tendency. It is the war that he engaged 
 in that has been the exciting cause of his present disease, and 
 when you sent him to New Zealand you were far from wishing 
 him to have anything to do with that. If he had continued to 
 work at the farm, to cut down trees, etc., he would probably 
 now be much stronger than when he left England. I will 
 write to him at once and advise him to go to Australia, where 
 the climate is warmer than in New Zealand. The sea- voyage 
 and change of air may possibly do him good. Queensland, I 
 think, would be the best place for him to go to. I have often 
 intended writing to you about our little boy, to thank you for 
 all your kindness to him, of which Allie continually keeps me 
 informed. In all her letters she tells me of your devotion to 
 the little boy. Annette and I are both exceedingly grateful. 
 Your kindness to the boy is beyond thanks, but I hope he may 
 recompense you in a measure by turning out a fine boy, and by 
 loving you. 
 
 1 This letter was omitted in its proper place. 
 
LAST WEEKS. 195 
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE LAST WEEKS, BY HIS SISTER ALICE. 
 
 After landing at Marseilles my brother hurried from place 
 to place with the restlessness of an invalid, never during the 
 next two months staying anywhere more than five or six days. 
 Like a hunted creature, he seemed to fly for his life. Now 
 reading these letters, records of the wasting fevers, it seems as 
 if the end was plain from the beginning ; but then we imagined, 
 as he did, that he would recover. Many things were against 
 him. He came to England in May, when the weather was ex- 
 tremely cold. He said to me in August that he thought he 
 had made a series of mistakes since he left India. This was 
 true. But these untoward chances, over which we grieved, were 
 the means appointed to bring the destined end. 
 
 After spending a few days in my mother's house, he came 
 with her and his wife to us at Keswick, and at the end of one 
 week he said he must leave the north, and seek a warmer cli- 
 mate. It was heartbreaking to see him leave Derwent Bank 
 and the home-comforts he so much needed, where his mother 
 and children were, where he had been so long looked for, again to 
 become a wanderer in his weak, shattered state of health. He 
 said he would soon come back, but this was not to be ; it was 
 his last visit to the loved home of his youth. How sad, how 
 sweet is the memory of that short week ! He was delighted to 
 see his children so robust and healthy, felt their firm limbs, and 
 was astonished at the improvement a year had made in their 
 condition, said how well our climate had agreed with them, and 
 was full of gratitude for the care we had taken of them. He 
 was pleased with the beautiful scenery and the aspect of the 
 old place, noted little alterations, remarked that our trees 
 looked smaller than he had expected to find them. He was solici- 
 tous to give no trouble, made light of his ailments, would say 
 cheerfully, " Now I have had my fever, and had my dinner, let us 
 go into the garden." He would stroll about the grounds with 
 me talking in his old pleasant way of the past and of a future 
 which was not for him. He was but the shadow of his former 
 self so changed that I should scarcely have known him. Twelve 
 years of work in the exhausting climate of India had indeed 
 wrought a change in the beautiful youth whom I had seen leave 
 England full of hope and buoyant life. He was amiable and 
 loving as ever, but instead of the radiant glad look there was 
 an expression of deep sadness on his features, of the eyes 
 especially. He resembled some of the pictures of Christ. I 
 recollect him speaking of our Great Teacher as having given 
 the highest and purest lessons to mankind. . Truly my brother 
 
196 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 was one who loved his fellow-men. He followed the golden 
 rule to * do to others as ye would that they should do unto 
 you." He was ever ready to sacrifice himself at the call of 
 duty. He has been often known to leave the society of his 
 friends to look after some poor Hindu patient, and would spend 
 nights in the hospital or jail watching anxious cases. 
 
 Alipore jail was self-supporting whilst under his superin- 
 tendence. Sir William Grey, then Lieutenant-Governor, at my 
 brother's solicitation, granted funds for the purchase of machi- 
 nery, the use of which in a short time repaid the first outlay. 
 Objections were made on the ground that " punishment " was 
 not made of primary consideration ; but my brother considered 
 the reformation of criminals the more important object. He 
 sought to make the prisoners better and more useful members 
 of society. I recollect him telling me of two men, both con- 
 demned to imprisonment for life. One was an old Sikh chief, 
 who had been taken prisoner during the Sikh war, fighting for 
 independence. He was a fine fellow, pining in captivity. James 
 represented his case, and obtained his pardon. The old chief 
 was most grateful, and became a good subject to the British 
 Government. The other, condemned for murder, was a Dacoit, 
 whose business was to kill. James said that whilst imprisoned 
 he had become an excellent workman, and was exemplary for 
 good behaviour, but that if he were let loose, he would return 
 to his trade of murder, that therefore the best thing for this 
 individual and for society was to keep him in perpetual durance. 
 A few months after my brother's retirement there was an emeute 
 in Alipore jail. All had been quiet and orderly during the five 
 years and a half he was governor. Colleagues, subordinates, 
 and prisoners were alike attached to him. 
 
 My brother was for two or three years engaged with Dr. 
 Douglas Cunningham 1 in scientific researches into the pathology 
 
 1 The following is a letter from Dr. Douglas Cunningham to a sister of 
 Dr. Fawcus : 
 
 " 4 Alipore Lane, Calcutta, July 10th, 1877. 
 
 "... I always have an uneasy feeling that I indirectly contributed to 
 cause the illness of your brother by the additional fatigue which his unex- 
 ampled kindness in attending me during an illness of some weeks in the rains 
 of 1870 must have caused him. I knew at the time that he used to come 
 twice a day to see me, and to stay for long hours from his work, doing every- 
 thing that could be done for my comfort, and even for some weeks bringing 
 his work over during the day, at great inconvenience to himself, in order 
 that I might not feel mj^self left alone ; but I did not know until long after, 
 when one of my servants told me, that he used to walk over from Alipore 
 late in the night to see how I was getting on. I do not know a more beauti- 
 ful instance of utterly self-forgetful kindness than his attendance on me at 
 that time was, harassed as he was by office-work, and specially trouble 
 connected with the Wahabi trials. He was the noblest specimen of humanity 
 
LAST WEEKS. 1 97 
 
 of cholera. His reports show the result of long labour and 
 great numbers of post-mortem examinations made under cir- 
 cumstances more favourable for arriving at just conclusions 
 (respecting embolism, for example) than any which could have 
 occurred in this country. Such labours as these must have 
 cost great effort in the exhausting climate of India. 
 
 I went to Paris in July. We lodged at Auteuil, near the 
 hydropathic establishment, in order that my brother might take 
 baths and douches. About his health he remarked, " I do not 
 think that my complaint of itself will prove fatal, but in my 
 weak state I should easily succumb to any fresh malady ; for 
 instance if I were to get pneumonia, I should die !" 
 
 How often I remember our pleasant little journeys from 
 Auteuil to Paris, sometimes by rail, sometimes in omnibuses 
 by the banks of the Seine ; our walks in the Place de la Con- 
 corde, with its broken statues and fountains, the ruins of the 
 Tuileries, and the Hotel de Ville, their outer walls alone standing 
 against the blue sky ; the looks and words of my gentle brother 
 as we wandered amongst these scenes. He said that Paris in 
 its beauty and desolation reminded him of Byron's description 
 of modern Greece, so changed from its former glory. 
 
 He was able to walk two or three miles in a morning, and 
 would say playfully that he feared he was tiring me out. And 
 yet in a postscript to one of my letters, he thus describes his 
 condition to L. : 
 
 "July 19th. For the last three days no definite distinct 
 fever, but pulse in morning 96, rising to 105 in the middle of 
 the day and evening, after slight exertion to 120. The spleen 
 has diminished two fingers' -breadth, and in volume also. I am 
 still very weak, and generally suffer from an overpowering 
 sensation of fatigue." 
 
 When I parted from him on the stairs of that house at 
 Auteuil, he clasped me affectionately to his heart, saying, " What- 
 ever happens, we have had this week together." The memory 
 of that solemn farewell will remain whilst I am left to " wander 
 on a darkened earth." 
 
 A fortnight afterwards (August 1 2th) we met again at my 
 mother's house. He was in worse health than when he left 
 England in spring. He wrote to my husband that he had lost 
 
 I ever encountered, or hope to encounter again. His large-minded liberality 
 was wonderfully combined with such transparent uprightness and hatred of 
 all forms of sham, and the extreme gentleness and (to use a term which has 
 been so often misapplied as to pass into disrepute) sweetness of his character 
 were such as to make one thankful, as they certainly ought to make one 
 better, for having encountered them. It is a great privilege to have had an 
 opportunity of seeing what a noble thing human nature can be in a world 
 where the mean side of it so often predominates. . . ." 
 
198 
 
 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 7 lbs. in weight during the two months he had been in Paris. 
 His complexion was grey and yellow. He used to come down 
 to breakfast with the family about eight o'clock, and during the 
 forenoon would lie on a couch in the drawing-room and listen 
 to my reading. The Letters of the Eev. F. Robertson of Brighton, 
 The Straits of Magellan, by a brother of his friend Dr. Douglas 
 Cunningham, Miss Mitford's Biography, were among the books 
 of which I read portions to him. He was weak, said that he 
 felt wretchedly ill in the morning. He often seemed very 
 desponding and low, and sometimes I heard that he had shed 
 tears whilst dressing. On one of these occasions, when Isabella 
 was with him, he said to her, " It is only weakness." Often 
 whilst I was reading to him he would fall asleep, his hands 
 usually clasped on his breast, his features, ever placid and sweet, 
 wearing a look of great weariness and sadness ; sometimes the 
 eyelids would be slightly open, and I saw the shadow of the 
 coming Angel upon his face. Oh beloved one ! we feared, but 
 we hoped then ! Yet he welcomed all his friends with smiles. 
 He was pleased to see our old servant Ann, who had waited 
 upon him in his boyhood. He wished mother to invite her to 
 stay in the house, which was done. He liked to see our good 
 neighbour Mrs. Pow. When told an instance of her forgiveness 
 of injuries, he said, " How good of her ! how truly Christian !" 
 
 During the first week or two, after he came to Shields, he 
 use*d to go daily to the Turkish bath; afterwards he took drives 
 to the seaside, and bathed in the sea. The sight of the rocks 
 and shores, the familiar places of his youth, pleased him. 
 
 On September 2d I was obliged to leave him to take his 
 three little girls to Derwent Bank ; they troubled him in his 
 weak state. He looked sadly at them as he bade them good-bye. 
 The parting from them in India had tried him exceedingly. 
 When at Derwent Bank in May he had said to me, " I have 
 given them to you, Allie ; I do not want to love them again. I 
 have suffered so much in parting from them." 
 
 I returned to my mother's house on the 13th September, on 
 the occasion of my brother Bobert's death. James did not seem 
 worse, and told me to let L. know that from various signs he 
 thought he should recover. When he first saw me, alluding to 
 our poor brother's departure, he said, " You must not be dole- 
 ful ; we are all cheerful here. I was dreaming last night 
 that I was writing a letter to you, and that I added in a post- 
 script, It is a duty to be gay." When he had heard from my 
 eldest brother some painful details of Robert's illness, James 
 desired me to beg John not to let my mother know how Robert 
 had suffered. 
 
 After a few days I again left him and returned to his 
 
LAST WEEKS. 199 
 
 children. He then complained of a sore gum. This increased, 
 and prevented him eating solid food. (It was a small fish-bone 
 which had caused inflammation in the gum.) He grew weaker, 
 yet took daily drives to the sea- side, bathing occasionally. My 
 brother William used to accompany him. His wife, my mother 
 and sister, were there. Isabella anticipated all his wants, and 
 tried to tempt his failing appetite. Other members of the 
 family were ready to help ; all feeling his precarious state. 
 (How I longed to be near him !) I received his last letter on 
 September 29th, in which he said that his gum was recovering, 
 and that he " hoped now to regain lost ground." 
 
 It was suggested that he should try the hydropathic establish- 
 ment at Melrose. He himself wished to do so. 
 
 My husband saw him set off for Melrose, October 2d. His 
 little boy, eight years old, was placed beside him in the carriage 
 at my mother's door, and twice he stooped to kiss him tenderly. 
 When the boy took off his hat as the train moved, James 
 smiled approvingly, a sweet last farewell to his child. 
 
 He enjoyed the journey ; his spirits and health seemed at 
 first to revive ; he was amused with fresh scenes, and pleased 
 with the beauty of the banks of the Tweed. On Wednesday, 
 October 4th, he walked through the long suite of rooms at 
 Abbotsford. On the next day he drove in an open carriage to 
 Dryburgh Abbey. Whilst his wife and William walked about 
 the grounds, James sat on a seat on the grass. The afternotfn 
 was chilly, and when he returned to the house his hands and 
 feet were icy cold. He had caught a fatal cold ! He had 
 pulled a piece of ivy from the ruins of the old Abbey, and 
 desired William to send it to me. I received this last gift with 
 tears, that ivy from a sepulchre seemed to my heart a prophetic 
 token. He had fever the two following days, followed by 
 diarrhoea. On Sunday he desired to return home to my mother's 
 house, and charged William to be careful that there should be 
 no hindrance. On Monday morning they were early at the 
 station, the hoar-frost on the ground, and he sat on the open 
 platform, waiting for the train, suffering from pneumonia ! 
 
 The journey of five hours, with changes, was long and trying, 
 but he bore up resolutely, got out of the carriage at mother's 
 door, and walked into the house, kissing my mother as he 
 entered. He was carried up-stairs in a chair to his bedroom. 
 He declined to have any doctor sent for. He then dictated his 
 last letter, a few lines to me. He was heard coughing all night, 
 but no one was in the room but his wife. At seven in the 
 morning he sent for my brother William, and requested that a 
 telegram should be sent to my husband. He signed with great 
 difficulty a codicil to his will, made in 1862, in order to 
 
200 LETTERS OF JAMES FAWCUS. 
 
 appoint my brother William his executor. He prescribed for 
 himself, linseed poultices to his side, the room to be kept at an 
 even temperature, champagne and milk to be given every half- 
 hour. He thanked those who ministered to him, was patient 
 and sweet as ever. Once, when he saw mother standing near 
 him, he said he feared she was unhappy. She did not realise 
 that her darling was dying, and answered, " No, I am thinking 
 of the Psalm, ' Bless the Lord, my soul, and forget not all 
 his benefits.' " James smiled lovingly, and pointed to his feet, 
 that she might see that he wore the shoes she had knitted for 
 him. These went with him to the grave. To Isabella he said, 
 " You are a good woman, Bella." 
 
 At eleven at night I arrived. More than once he had asked, 
 " Has Allie come ? " (Oh that I could have been there sooner !) 
 When I went into the room he was breathing with great difficulty, 
 taking no notice of what was passing around him. He was 
 roused to take some champagne, and then he saw me standing 
 by his bedside ; his whole face lightened up with a sweet smile 
 of welcome, and he held out both his thin pale hands eagerly 
 towards me. He immediately desired that all others should 
 leave the room, " except Allie." I leant my ear to his mouth, 
 for he could only speak in the faintest whisper then. He said, 
 " Have you anything to ask me ? Do not be anxious, they (the 
 children) will all be brought up Protestants." I said, "I shall 
 do all I can for them," " Yes." " Wherever you are we shall 
 still love each other." " Yes." It was but for a few moments. 
 Even then I did not think that these were his last words to 
 me. He never spoke again, except to ask my husband, " Will 
 it be long ? Is there any hope ? " He smiled sweetly when 
 my brother William and my husband raised him up. He was 
 roused at intervals, and drank a little champagne, holding the 
 glass in his own trembling fingers ; heroic, sweet, patient, and 
 yielding to the last. A little after two in the morning his 
 breathing became gentle, and grew fainter and fainter until it 
 ceased. He passed away without a sigh or struggle, and our 
 beloved one lay still and silent beautiful yet, but with that 
 strange unearthly beauty of death. His wife was on one side 
 of the bed, my brother William on the other, holding his left 
 hand, my husband and I at the foot of the bed, when he died. 
 Isabella came, full of woe, Wilhelmina and Janie. What a night 
 of sorrow ! We did not call poor dear mother. William said, " I do 
 not like to leave this warm hand." I took it from his ; it was 
 yet soft and warm, that loving, gracious hand, so dear to me. 
 I held it until it was cold. The waning moon was shining 
 ruddy and bright through the east window as we passed through 
 the corridor leading to the room where he lay, still and alone. 
 All his wanderings were over. 
 
FUNERAL. 
 
 201 
 
 In the morning I went to my mother. "How is my 
 darling?" she asked. She looked at my sad despairing 
 face, and cried, " Is he gone ? I always thought he would 
 recover!" Afterwards she became calm and said, "By their 
 fruits ye shall know them." Eemembering his gentle, unself- 
 ish, useful life, she thought that surely his heart was right in 
 the sight of God. 
 
 On the third day (Friday) we buried our loved one by the 
 side of his father and grandfather, and the little brother and sis- 
 ter who had been laid there long ago. Our funeral was very 
 quiet. There was no hearse, no carriage. His body was carried 
 to the grave by six workmen. Part of the service was per- 
 formed at the house, as there was no church at the cemetery. 
 My mother was present, and seemed comforted by the service. 
 She watched, with my sister and me, the little procession as it 
 wound through the garden and gate, and on the road that led to 
 the cemetery, the road he knew so well. The bier was covered 
 with flowers. It was a still day, the sun a little clouded. 
 
 How empty seemed the house when he was gone for ever ! 
 How sad, how dreary, to go on our way without him ! I have 
 loved him from his cradle to his grave, and I shall love him 
 until my own life is ended. Shall I not meet him then ? Shall 
 I not know him again ? A. L. 
 
APPENDIX I. 
 
 LETTER FROM MY BROTHER WILLIAM TO DR. CARLYLE. 
 
 Oct. 11^, 1871. 
 
 Your kind letter reached me this morning, and from no one 
 would I sooner have received a friendly greeting on this to me 
 sad day ; for James died this morning in mother's house, as he 
 had lived, bravely and gently. 
 
 Alice I see has told you about him leaving India seven 
 months ago. ... I think that consideration for the feelings of 
 others, and his anxiety to see his friends, led him to come to 
 England when he should have gone to a more suitable climate 
 for one suffering from malaria ; but that is all past now. He 
 was asked to continue at his work, when he should have given 
 up, and, as often happens, the willing horse was pressed ; but 
 this too is past, and should be forgotten. . . . 
 
 In outward appearance and in inward worth he was the 
 finest man I have known, and he lies struck down by the 
 climate of India at the age of thirty-eight, a soldier of civilisa- 
 tion of the noblest type, just as he was becoming most useful 
 and honoured. He was singularly beloved, from being a child 
 to his last days, by all who knew him. I can see in memory 
 the 120 boys at Mill School, crowding round James as a new 
 boy, then only nine years of age, and declaring that he was 
 painted, as they had never before seen such purity of red and 
 white. And at Melrose the other day, though all that was gone, 
 though thin and wasted, there was a hush of admiration as 
 he passed along with his own sweet expression on his noble 
 features, and with that graceful courtesy which wins all hearts, 
 ak of Sir Lancelot of old, or of a greater than he whom the 
 daughters of Jerusalem followed. 
 
APPENDIX II. 
 
 From a leading article in " The Englishman," Calcutta, 
 Oct 16th, 1871. 
 
 A private telegram has been received from England announc- 
 ing the death of Dr. James Eawcus, Inspector- General of Jails 
 in Bengal. Distinguished as a student before he came to India, 
 opportunity alone was needed to bring into prominence the 
 rare faculties and qualities of mind Dr. Fawcus possessed, and 
 the rapidity of his advancement to one of the highest offices 
 within the reach of a medical officer is we believe without a 
 parallel in the service. Opportunity would have been long 
 wanting if it had depended on any self-seeking aspirations of 
 his own, but fortunately he was early brought to the notice of 
 Government by Dr. Parkes of Eetley. His connection with the 
 Jail Department began in 1865, in his appointment to the charge 
 of the great jail at Alipore. So perfect was the confidence he 
 inspired in a Government given to the most critical scrutiny, 
 that though he had not then ceased to be an assistant surgeon, 
 he was marked as the successor of Dr. Mouat on his retirement. 
 He had held the office for a few weeks only when the illness 
 began which has ended in his death, and the persistency with 
 which, against the most urgent advice, he refused to leave his 
 work in time, is now among the memories which, while enhancing 
 the admiration of his friends, adds much to the bitterness with 
 which they mourn his loss. He was not in his lifetime a man 
 of many words, and praises in a journal must be few, if they 
 would be in harmony with this. Calm and dispassionate in 
 judgment, earnest and strong to think and act, he gained the 
 high regard of every man with whom he had relation either 
 of work or friendship. They loved him best who knew him 
 best, and though brought into daily contact with a large number 
 and variety of men, he never had an enemy. 
 
w 
 
M217171 a% 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
y