V r BANCROFT LIBRARY THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BOMBARDMENT OF WRANGEL, ALASKA. No. 3. THE WIDOW OF SKILLAT, THE FOKMKR CHIEF'S HOUSE AT AVitAXUKL, ALASKA. REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, AND LETTER TO THE PRESIDENT, By VINCENT COT/VER, Secretary of ./>'.> % "Women. GO 1 1 3 First 7 5 4 *> Eighteenth 5 5 3 3 4 4 1 1 Nineteenth 5 5 9, 9, Third 7 10 1 10 Twentieth 4 7 7 1 Fourth. 4 fi 4 1 Twenty-first 5 f> 1 n Fifth 10 9 o 10 4 ? 4 Sixth T 7 3 Twenty-sixth fi q 7 4 Tenth > 4 Twenty-eighth 4 3 1 9 Twelfth 2 2 1 n Twenty -ninth 7 10 9 Thirteenth 6 6 10 Thirtieth 9: 9 5 7 5 1 1 Thirty-first 3 3 3 9 Fifteenth 1 1 Thirty-second 8 6 3 9 Sixteenth 9 4 3 3 Seventeenth R 10 1 1 Total 159 181 77 89 Men 159 "Women and children 349 Total . . . . 508 APPENDIX B. Report from Harry G. Williams. THE STIKINE INDIANS AT WRANGEL. FORT WRANGEL, ALASKA TERRITORY, October 30, 1869. DEAR SIR : Immediately after leaving you on board the steamer Newbern, I was snugly stored away as a guest of the post surgeon, in his quarters. H. M. Kirke, acting assistant surgeon United States Army, gave me a very interesting account of the nature, customs, means of livelihood, occupation, and also of the diseases and manner of their treatment among the Stikine Indians. Of their nature, he says, they are very docile and friendly, ingenious, and labor well and faithfully, but by being brought into contact with unprincipled white men are soon found to adopt and imitate their manners and ways. In their customs they still maintain the most of those originally observed by their nation. However, many of them take great pride in imitating civilized ways of dress, which in their opinion renders them equally as good as a white man. Their means of livelihood are chiefly by salmon fishing, which they catch in immense numbers, and pre pare for winter use by drying and smoking, after which they are stored away care fully. Many of them use flour, but prefer hard bread and crackers when they are able to obtain them. They are very fond of coffee, sugar, and molasses, and like all other Indians easily become fond of ardent spirits, to obtain which they will sometimes sac rifice nearly everything in their possession. In this manner they are imposed upon by those who know no principle or law, who have been known to sell them essence of peppermint, Stoughtou's bitters, and absinthe, charging them four dollars a bottle, (holding one pint.) Absinthe is a compound which, if used as a constant beverage, soon unseats the mind, produces insanity, and sometimes death. Dr. Kirke tells me that he can find none among them who are entirely free from the indications of some form of disease. A large number of them are more or less inoculated with the different forms of venereal diseases, which, had they proper protection, could be avoided. But I regret to say that men cannot be blamed for following examples set by their superiors, the consequence of which is the Indian women become mere concubines, at the will of those whose duty it is to try and elevate and not degrade them. These women are never known to seek any such degrading intercourse, but permit it merely for the pecu niary gain it affords them. Justice, honor, and manhood point the finger of scorn, and cry shame to such. Men with virtuous, noble wives and children, even to stoop to such acts \ Thank a kind heavenly Master, there will be a time when such men can be 12 WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. seen in their true character, and be made to feel the power of an avenging hand. I am fully convinced that by kind and careful teaching this great evil could be remedied and the Indian race again restored to its former virtue and honor, and gradually be come an intelligent, industrious, and educated people. THE STIKINE RIVER. After remaining at Wrangel one week I procured an Indian guide, purchased a canoe and sufficient provisous to last three months, and Monday, at half past one p. m., Sep tember 13, started on a tour of inspection up the Stikine River, the mouth of which is about ten miles north from Wrangel Island. We reached main laud about four p. m., and after luncheon again resumed our journey, overtaking a number of Indians during the afternoon. These Indians were from Wrangel, and on their way to the interior, where they go every fall to trade for the furs of more distant tribes. A systematic form of exchange is carried on from one tribe to another until it reaches the coast tribes, thus bringing many valuable furs many hundred miles from the interior of a vast and unexplored country. As we advanced, day after day, the general appearance of the country gradually assumed a better appearance. The scenery along the river is far beyond my power of description. Immense mountains, whose snow-crowned heads pierce the dome of heaven in solemn and domestic grandeur, rise in every direction. COAL, IRON, AND COPPER. In many places on these mountains could be seen huge masses of coal, looking as though a little push would set them tumbling down their sides. Iron and copper abound in many places, and gold can be found in every direction, very thinly scattered. As yet no dis coveries have been made that would warrant a speedy acquirement of wealth by mining, but the indications are very good that at no distant day very rich mines will be found. A strong party of prospecters left Victoria in May last, for the purpose of exploring the entire interior westward, and are daily expected to make their appearance somewhere along the coast. Many are ready and waiting to embrace any new discoveries they may have made in their long journey. As we advanced to the interior we found a greater change in the condition of the Indians. They being removed from the coast, had no idea of wrong or evil actions. They are far more honest than the same number of white men would be under the same circumstances. You can form an idea of this from the fol lowing, which I learned from an eye-witness : In 1862 a large immigration of miners to this coast was caused by the discoveries of gold about two hundred miles up the Stikine River, at a bar named after the discoverer, (Mr. Chockett, nicknamed Buck,) hence the name of " Buck's Bar," which was worked but one or two years, (owing to the diffi culty of getting provisions,) and then nearly all of them returning, many left their entire kits of tools and working utensils and goods of every variety ; some hung them up on trees, others stowed them away in caves and niches in the rocks, and abandoned them. The Indians are continually passing them, and have been known to replace them when their fastenings would give way and let them fall to the ground, thereby showing not even the existence of a wrong thought in the minds of these red men. The only thing they have ever been known to appropriate was a few potatoes and about five pounds of flour belonging to one of the miners there, and this they were almost forced to take from inability to procure sufficient food to sustain life. This in stance can be multiplied by many more of the same nature, were it necessary. Fifty miles up the river is an abandoned house, once used by the Hudson's Bay Company for trading with the Indians. THE GLACIER OF THE STIKINE. Opposite this place is an immense glacier, about four miles long and an unknown width, extending westward between two large mountains, until it is no longer discernible. It varies in depth from one to five or six hundred feet, commencing near the water and extending along its course. The top is furrowed and cut by the rain into every variety of shape, only needing a small addition to form correct images of houses, towers, giants, caverns, and many other forms. Viewed from the east side of the river, when the sun is shining full upon it, it presents a most beautiful appearance, its innumerable points glistening like burnished silver, and its caverns becoming more dark by comparison. Toward sunset the effect of the day's sun causes it to crack, which makes a deep rumbling noise that can be heard for ten or fifteen and sometimes twenty miles. Immediately opposite its center, across the river, is a boiling spring, bubbling up in eight or ten places, whose water is so hot that it will crisp a person's boots in a very short time, as many incautious persons can testify. It seems as if nature must have been on a frolic during her stay here, and becoming chilled from the glacier, caine across the river and found this warm stream in which to sport. WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. 13 Along the river are four other smaller glaciers, but, compared with this one, they be come mere snow-balls. Seventy-five miles from the mouth of the river is located the trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, in charge of their agent, Mr. Chockett, known throughout the country as"" Buck ;" he is esteemed very highly by the Indians, from the fact that his dealings have been uniform, and his promises always faithfully redeemed, thus gaining a firm place in their estimation. At the time of my visit he showed me over eight hundred marten, one thousand beaver, and a large number of many other kind of furs ; this being about the middle of the trading season with him. He has been two hundred and seventy-five miles from there up the river into the inte rior prospecting for gold. Sixty miles from there you reach an immense canon, ninety miles long, extending through the Coast or Chigmet Mountains. The current in this place runs so rapidly that you can form no idea of its speed. It reminds you of a huge gun, as you see fragments of trees and logs fly along in its angry foaming waters. In some places the rocky sides gradually incline inward, until at a distance of two or three hundred feet above the water they come so close that a good jump will take you across the yawning chasm below. In the spring, when the ice breaks up in the river, the water rises from forty to sixty feet in this canon, and you may imagine its appearance then. After crossing the mountains, you reach a beautiful prairie, well watered and plenty of fine timber. Here are found deer, bear, antelope, mountain sheep, beaver, and nearly every variety of game, excepting the buffalo. The gold continues about the same, and is found to a small extent in river bars. No quartz existing precludes the idea of any large deposits in this vicinity. The change in the climate is more striking than that of the country. It is clear, bright, and invigorating, with but very little rain. The atmosphere is so pure that you can see much further and more distinctly than in any other climate. The nights are almost as bright as the day ; so bright that you can easily read coarse print. The In dians in this vicinity have almost an Eden to live in ; game and fish in endless num ber seem to be only waiting their will. These tribes make annual journeys overland southward, and meet those coming from the coast, thus finding a ready market for their furs, for which they obtain ammunition, guns, axes, buttons, cloth, and tobacco ; also many other small notions. But very little liquor ever reaches them, and thus they es cape the great source of degradation and corruption which soon sweeps away nations, power, and happiness. I do not wish my readers to think that I am a rigid temperance man, for I ana not. I regard liquor the same as any other article of drink or food ; that is, if it is properly used, it will not injure any one ; but abused, it becomes a scourge and lashes hardest those who embrace it most, degrading them even below the brute creation. Its effect on the Indian is much different and more dangerous than on the white man. When an Indian becomes intoxicated, he becomes Avild, reckless, and cruel, not even hesitating to kill any one who may meet his displeasure. They will continue drinking as long as they can procure liquor, thus showing how rapid would be their course toward a fearful end. At the time of my leaving Philadelphia, my opinion was like the masses who had never seen or inspected the Indian in his own nativepower and country ; i. e., "that he was incapable of ever being civilized or becoming of any importance whatever." Since my journey and inspection of the different tribes whom I met, and observing the change produced in them by association alone, every item of doubt regarding it is turned to a certainty, that they can, under honest, faithful instruction, be advanced far beyond our imagination. After running up the Stikine, I then entered one of its tributaries, about one hun dred and fifty miles up, called the Clear Water River. It was named by a party of miners, from the fact of its water being much more clear than the Stikine. The Clear Water runs southeast. It is a very rapid stream indeed, and in many places very shal low. It can be navigated with difficulty about fifteen or twenty miles in canoes, where rapids occur so frequently that no one cares to risk life and property by braving them. Here the climate is very fine and healthy, inhabited by the " Stick" or Tree Indians. These Indians partake of the same descriptions and traits as those along the Stikine. We left our canoe moored in a small side stream in full view of a trail in constant use by this tribe, and during a week which I spent in traveling from there in every direc tion, not a single article was disturbed by them. I frequently met them, and would ask them in their own language ("Mika manick, mika canin?") "Did you see my canoe ?" They would say (" Moitka") " Yes ;" and on returning I could see their trail pass it, but no indication of their approaching. I prospected in many places for gold, and found but very little difference between the deposits here and elsewhere, with one exception. About ten miles from camp, and five miles up a large creek (coming in from the northeast) called Boulder Creek, deriving its name from the amount of large boulders found along its course, is a fall of about five or six feet, at the foot of which are some small deposits of coarse gold buried among huge boulders of many tons' weight. It is not in sufficient quantities to warrant an investment in mining tools 14 WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. &c., necessary to overcome these obstacles and remunerate any one for time and trouble. Becoming fully convinced that there was nothing in this section sufficient to recom pense me for the sacrifice of home and its surroundings, I determined on returning to them as soon as possible. Accordingly, October 21, all things being in readiness, at day-break I bid farewell to our old camp and its pleasant surroundings, headed the canoe down stream, and began a journey of nearly five thousand miles homeward bound. In the first day's travel we run about eighty miles, encountering many dan gerous places, but coming through them all safely. Many times, in spite of our united efforts, the current would sweep us against its rocky boundary, and almost smash our canoe. Again in trying to avoid huge trees (left in the river at high water) we would be forced to head our boat directly for them, and with a silent prayer wait the result. The anoe being gradually rounded from its bottom up to a long sharp bow, and driven ten or twelve miles an hour by the strong current, would strike the tree and seem to leap out of the water over it, as if it was running from some fearful danger. The next day's run we reached the Great Glacier, and camped in the old house, re maining there one day to overhaul our goods and feast our eyes on the beautiful scenery. After tramping over a large mountain and shooting some grouse and squirrels I returned to camp, and next morning determined to reach Wrangel again. It was a long and hard pull of sixty miles, the river having become much wider and the current ran from four to six miles an hour. We reached there about 9 p. m. tired and hungry, and were welcomed back and well entertained. Our friends were about sending a canoe up after us, fearing that we would not survive the dangers of the return trip. We were disappointed at not finding any letters from home there for us. Thursday night we were awakened by the signal gun of the Newbern, and our hearts gave a great bound of joy at the prospect of a speedy return to the dear ones far away. If in this simple, unpretending letter you find anything instructive or interesting I shall be amply repaid for this attempt at a description which, in good hands, would fill a large volume, every item being of interest. As it is I must endeavor to double the " one talent" given, that it may be well with me. For the kind Christian advice given me by you on our way up from San Francisco I thank you most earnestly, for through it I have been greatly benefited. Although I may never repay you, your reward awaits you in heaven. May God's blessing ever rest on you and your efforts is the wish of Your devoted friend, HARRY G. WILLIAMS, Philadelphia, Pa. VINCENT COLYER, Special United States Indian Commissioner. APPENDIX C. Letter from Leon Smith. WRANGEL ISLAND, A. T., October 30, 1869. DEAR SIR : In answer to your questions of yesterday, permit me to say the number of Indians at this point is estimated to be about 500. Since my arrival here, the 1st of March, 1869, 1 have found them to l>e quiet, and seem well disposed toward the whites. They live on fish (smoked salmon) and game, and they provide themselves with clothing from the furs they gather, either by trade or trapping. Twice a year most of the Indians make a trip up the Stikine River to Talyan, at which place the Stick tribe reside, and trade with them for interior marten, mink, beaver, bear, wolverine, lynx, land otter, and some other skins. They take up salmon , fish oil, blankets, domestics, red cloth, beads, molasses, flour, and in fact every other article suitable for Indian trade. They give about ten yards of print for one prime marten ; three and a half pounds of salmon, three gallons of molasses, for the same, and for other skins in proportion. The Stick tribe a very is honest tribe, and partial to the whites. I will now start from this point and go with you to Talyan, on the North Fork. We leave here and go about seven miles to the mouth of the Stikine with, say, five Indians in my canoe. The current is rapid at all seasons. We reach the glacier, thirty-live miles irona the mouth, in two days ; from there we proceed to the Hudson's Bay Company's post, two miles above the boundary line between Hudson's Bay Company and Alaska, a distance of thirty miles, in two days four days from the mouth. From here we find the cur rent very rapid, and we tow our canoe along the two banks ; we send three of our men on shore to tow, and keep one in the bow and stern. We- tug along about ten miles a day until we reach Shakesville, named after the chief of the Stikiue tribe, with WE ANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT 15 whom you are acquainted. We reached Shakesville in about five days, about fifty miles from the Hudson's Bay Company, being about one hundred and thirty miles from the mouth. From here we tug along twelve miles to Buck's Bar, at which point, or in its vicinity, some eleven miners are at work on surface digging. They average about three dollars a day, and generally come to the mouth to winter. The men do some trading in furs. They here find silver, copper, coal, and iron, but, with the exception of coal, not in large quantities. The coal near the North Fork is of good quality, the vein being some thirty feet. . We now leave Buck's Bar, bound to Talyan, a distance of twenty miles. We work hard for three days, and at last make fast to the banks at Talyan. We are received kindly by the chief, Nornuck, and by all the tribe, The tribe remain away from home, and at their hunting grounds, about six months out of the year. They do their trading with the Stikines ; the Hudson's Bay Company sends goods up, and in fact do most all the trading. * * * * * I spoke to you of Mr. Charles Brown's farm and waterfall. He tells me that he has raised about fifteen tons of potatoes, two tons of cabbage, four tons of turnips, and a large quantity of beets, lettuce, peas, carrots, &c. He has a turnip weighing six pounds. Potatoes average well ; some came aboard yesterday. The lake is- about one mile wide, and two and one-half long ; the fall is about forty feet, with water enough to run forty saw-mills. Mr. Brown has been living at that point about two years ; it is about ten miles from here. Out of six pounds of seed Mr. Brown tells me he raised four hundred and fifteen pounds of potatoes. Mr. Hogan, a miner at Buck's Bar for two years, tells me that the altitude of the country will not permit them to raise vegetables ; the country is broken, mountainous, and swampy. Of the other tribes of the Territory I know nothing. Hoping you will excuse this hurriedly penned memorandum, I am, sir, very respect fully, your obedient servant, LEON SMITH. Hon. VINCENT COLTER, Special Indian Commissioner. APPENDIX D. Letter from W. Wall. FORT WRANGEL, A. T., November 8, 1869. DEAR SIR: The Stikine Indians live at present on a small bay near the northern ex tremity of Wrangel Island, and within about seven miles from the mouth of the river Stikine. They number altogether about three hundred, and are divided into nine tribes, each tribe having a chief, and all subject to one chief. The present chief is Shakes ; he does not possess by any means the authority and in fluence which his predecessor did ; the principal reason is he is very poor, and another is he reports to the commanding officer all the misdeeds of the village. He is well dis posed, and his only fault is his fondness for whisky, which is the cause of his poverty. The majority of these Indians are very industrious, and are always anxious to get employment, but, like all the Indians on the coast, are passionately fond of whisky. Such is their desire for it that they will dispose of their most valuable furs at a most extraordinary sacrifice to obtain it. However, since the country came into the posses sion of the United States they have not as many opportunities as formerly of gratifying their passion. It is a well-known fact, that the sale of whisky to Indians on this coast, (and to the interior Indians through these on the coast,) has reduced their numbers, caused petty feuds, idleness, theft, and predisposes them to disease and mortality, reducing them to the level of the lowest brute. They are artful and cunning, and to gain a point will tell lies in a most bare-faced manner ; at the same time they look upon a respectable white man as incapable of telling an untruth ; and if a white man once deceives them by telling an untruth, or otherwise, they look upon him as below caste, and will avoid as much as possible all future dealings with him. It is also a well-known fact that immorality among the Indian tribes is not so gen eral as when they associate with the white population. Both male and female seem to suffer alike by the association, and the natural consequence is quite evident disease and a remarkable decrease in population. The principal sustenance of these Indians is fish, berries, fish oil, seal oil, venison, and mountain sheep. Potatoes and turnips they are very fond of, and buy them in considerable quantities from the Hydahs, who live further up, and seem to understand their cultivation. 16 WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. The soil and climate here are well suited for the growth of potatoes, turnips, cab bage, carrots, parsnips, beets, &c.; but both from the want of knowledge and of imple ments, the Indians never make an earnest attempt ; they simply cultivate a few pota toes in a most indifferent manner. The fur-bearing animals on the coast are numerous, and good of their kind, viz : bears, mink, and hair seal ; and it is strange how these Indians neglect, in a great measure, this very important source of wealth. I can account for it in this way: their appliances for procuring the means of subsistence are so indifferent, and their total neglect of raising any A^egetables leaves them in that condition that they really have neither the time nor the independence to go out for a two or three months' trapping expedition. However, there are some exceptions which go to prove the statement which I make. I know one Indian who last winter killed twelve large and eight small bears, about thirty minks, and a number of hair seals ; he had besides a small patch of potatoes; this Indian had only his wife to assist him. In conclusion, Ihave no hesitation in stating, (after nearly three years' experience in their means and ways,) that these Indians, if properly instructed, and advantage taken of the resources of the country, they might not only become comfortable, but by the sale of furs and their other produce become comparatively wealthy. I have much pleasure in offering you these hurried remarks, hoping you might find them useful in assisting you in the good work you have undertaken. I am, sir, yours, most respectfully. W. WALL. Hon. VINCENT COLYER, United States Special Indian Commissioner. APPENDIX E. Report from F. K. Louthan on the Indian tribes of Alaska. ALASKA, October 28, 1869. DEAR SIR : A residence of nearly two years at Sitka, intimately associated with the trade of the country, and in daily communication with the Indians, has afforded me some advantages for observing the habits and wants, manners and customs, of these people. I need only refer to the Sitkas, whose history and character afford an example that pertains, in a peculiar degree, to all of the tribes on our coast, from Fort Tongas, near our southern boundary line, to Copper River, away to the northward and west ward, about six hundred miles. The village of the Sitkas consists of fifty-six houses, well built and comfortable, ad joining the town of Sitka, or New Archangel, being separated only by the palisade, a rude defensive line of upright logs, placed by the old Russian American Company. The village contains a population of about twelve hundred souls all told. They have been, and are now, governed by one great chief, aided by sub-chiefs, all of whom are elected by the tribe. It is impossible for me to give the number of the latter, their position being neither arbitrary nor perpetual, as is that of the great chief or " tye." They live by fishing and hunting, each in their proper season, the men devoting a large portion of their time trading with the interior Indians for furs, giving in ex change their dried salmon and halibut, cotton goods, printed and plain, blankets, guns, powder, balls, &c. They are industrious and ingenious, being able to imitate admirably almost anything placed before them. Of thkir industry, I need only to refer to the fact that for the quartermaster and myself, in a few days' notice, they supplied, under great disadvantages, both of weather and means, one thousand cords ofivood, Russian^ measure, of 216 cubic feet each. This large amount of wood was cut from one to four miles away from our town, and delivered and corded by them as well, if not better, than would have been done by the same white labor under similar disadvan tages. Our Indians are shrewd traders, readily understanding prices and values, easily un derstanding both our coins of different denominations, and our " greenbacks." They are tractable and kind when kindly treated, but vindictive and exacting full compen sation for wrongs inflicted, come from what quarter they may. All difficulties, even that of killing one of their number, is measured by an estimated value, " so many blankets," or the equivalent in money, or what they may elect. The failure to promptly pay for a real or supposed injury is at once the signal for retaliation. I can but look with great favor upon the system on the part of the government, of adapting itself to the one idea, immediate settlement with their people for all wrongs of magni tude, (whether on the part of the military or the individual,) entirely upon estimated WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. 17 t>tt?U, This is the time-honored custom of the red man in Alaska, and pertains to all alike, wherever dispersed throughout the vast Territory. At present it is more than folly to attempt to induct him into any other way of looking at a wrong or injury. Authority, with definite instructions to our rulers, whether civil or military, to in this way settle all disputes, especially when life has been taken, will always keep him (the Indian) peaceable and friendly, and in the end save to the government many notable lives and a large expenditure of treasure. I art led to these reflections by observing that in this way the Hudson's Bay Company and the Russian-American Fur Company have, for nearly a century, lived in compara tive security among the Pacific coast Indians, failing in but few instances, a confidence betrayed, property taken, or life endangered, Again, my own* personal experience is a powerful example of the system of such a course. Last New Year's eve a difficulty occurred at the market-house in Sitka, between a Chilkaht chief and a soldier," a sentinel, which resulted in the imprisonment in the guard-house of the chief, and through some unaccountable manner the death by shooting, in a day or two afterward, of three Indians. For a full account of these early difficulties I refer you to a report of General J. C. Davis, made about that time. Among the Indians killed was one Chilkaht, one Kake, and one Sitka. The Kakes very promptly sought the usual remedy, but, failing to satisfy themselves, adopted their extreme remedy, " an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth ;" meeting two white men near their village, promptly dispatched them, thereby lost all of their village, burned by order of the general commanding; hence the so-called "Kake war." For nearly five mouths no coast or interior Indians appeared among us, to the great detriment of trade, the Chilkahts especially keeping themselves aloof from us all winter. Well knowing the chief and most of his people, I determined to pay them a visit for purpose of trade and to restore friendly relations. First, a small schooner reached their village in May last, and found them sullen and listless, and effected but little in any shape for several days. At the end of the fourth day our little vessel was suddenly boarded by about seventy-five well-armed men, bent on satisfaction either in property or life, for the man killed at Sitka nearly five mouths previous. The exigencies of my situation required prompt aud immediate action. Asking, from our closed cabin, an audience, it being granted, I stepped out among them with my interpreter, an In dian, and while protesting against their wish that I should pay for what had been done by our military chief at Sitka, satisfied them by giving them a letter to the general commanding, asking him, for the sake of trade and security to life, to pay for the man killed, giving my promise to the Indians to pay for the dead man if the gen eral refused. The general refused to listen to the delegation waiting on him with my letter. I re turned with my vessel again to Sitka and to Chilkaht, when I promptly paid the price asked thirteen blankets and one coat, amounting in value, all told, to about fifty dol lars, coin. I feel quite sure that in this simple settlement I arrested serious trouble to myself and probably to the government. I made afterward a similar settlement with the Chilkahts in Sitka, for one of their men killed by a young man in my employ. I can safely say that, dealt with in this way, there need never be any serious complication of Indian affairs in this Territory. Many irregularities and immoralities exist among our coast Indians. Like their brothers of the plains, they are great lovers of whisky, and will barter their all to get it. They should be prohibited its use, but how to effect this is a problem I am unable to solve, unless the importation is entirely prohibited. That our Indians are suscepti ble of a high standard of cultivation there can be no possible doubt. This can only be done by the aid of industrial and educational schools. The missionary is working to good advantage at Vancouver among the Hydahs, and at Fort Simpson among the Chemseaus. In these two tribes can be found men and women of high culture and re finement, fit to " grace almost any position in life." The Koloshan, our own Indians from Tongas to the Copper River, are quite as intel ligent and easy of culture, needing only the same liberal system of education to in a very short time, fully utilize them for every purpose of government and usefulness. The inhospitality of the country, differing as it does so widely from the usual fields of civilized men, must for a long time make the Indian the nucleus of population of Alaska; and if so, how very essential that he be at once advanced through education and example to his high destiny. While the manners and customs are the same of the whole Koloshan race, there is a marked difference in the wealth and condition of those tribes living on the mainland coast over that of the islander. Position, custom, and numbers have given to the former the entire control of the valuable trade with the interior, in some five of the great mainland tribes, each warlike and powerful, and equally jealous of any encroach ments on their peculiar privileges. Beginning north we have the Copper River Indians, variously estimated from three to tour thousand strong ; but little is known of thie people. They are, however known to be very rich in furs. -& Ex. Doc. 68 2 18 WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. The early Russians told fabulous stories of tlie existence of both gold and copper on this river, which is proved by the fact that the Indians are at times seen to use these metals in their ornaments. Next in order, south, are the Klahinks, about one thousand strong. They live in the great basin or park known as Behriug Bay, between Mount St. Elias and Mount Fair- Weather, and have a splendid communication with the interior by means of two long, fine rivers emptying into the bay. These Indians are gentle, hospitable, and kind, but are poor, having been neglected by the traders for the last three years. They are in quick communication with a splendid fur-bearing country, and only require a market to develop splendid resources. Next in order are the Hoonid, or Cross Sound Indians, two thousand strong. They live on the eastern bank of the sound for a distance of sixty miles, and are the oil mer chants of the coast, taking enormously large quantities of seal, dog-fish, and ulican oil, which they barter to their brethren along the coast. These oils are used largely by our Indians as an article of food; it is used by them asAve use butter. At the head of the Chatham Straits, almost due north from Sitka, two hundred and twenty miles, are the Chilkahts, at least ten thousand strong. They are a brave and warlike people, " more sinned against than sinning." I have had much to do with them, and ever found them honest, faithful, andkind. Their villages extend from .the mouth to a distance of seventy-five miles up the Chilkaht River. Coal and iron abound in inex haustible quantities ; huge masses of iron can be found among the boulders almost any where along the banks of the noble stream. The Indians state the existence of gold in the mountain passes of the river. The "color" has been found near the mouth. On every hand can be seen quartz cropping boldly out from a width of from one to twenty feet.' Nothing is known of its character or value. These Indians are among the richest, if not the wealthiest, of our coast Indians. Large quantities of the most valuable furs are annually gathered and sold by them. They are in every w r ay independent. Twenty miles north of Sitka, and east of Admiralty Island seventy-five miles, are the Takoos, living at the head of Takoo Inlet, on the Takoo River. These Indians claim to be richer in furs than any of the tribes around them. About the same quantity can be got here as on the Chilkaht. Some idea may be gathered of the large trade at one time done with them when I state but a short time ago the Hudson's Bay Company made their trade lease from the Russian-American Company's furs taken in a single trip of their steamer over five thousand marten skins, and other valuable skins in proportion. The Takoos number about the same as the Chilkahts, and are a*proud and haughty race. Gold is well known to exist anywhere along this river, but the Indians have steadily refused to permit any development. Coal is also found here in large quanti ties; indeed it is found throughout the coast and islands of our inland waters. Of salmon it would be invidious to particularize; they are found in endless numbers any where in our fresh-water streams. The largest and best are found in the Takoo, Chil kaht, Behriug Bay. and Copper River, reaching an enormous size, many of them \Veigh- ing'*seventy pounds. Give Alaska a market and she will soon develop a second New England. The conformation of our mountain ranges are not unlike those of Washington, Ore gon, and California. They form our coast and are iron-clad a greater portion of them, iron. A distance of twenty or thirty miles will pass one through this range, where is found an almost level plateau well covered with timber. This plateau extends inland for a distance of from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty miles, when another chain of mountains is reached, answering to what is known as the Cascade Range in Oregon, or the Blue Range in California. There can be no doubt, from what the Indians tell us, in this plateau, between the two ranges, the prospectors will at no distant day develop a field as rich in the precious minerals as any found in the southward. Very respectfully, F. K. LOUTHAN. Hon. VINCENT COLYEK, Fort Hrangel, A. T. APPENDIX F. Letter from Frank Malwney on the Indians and their trade in Eastern Alaska. SITKA, A. T. SIR : In compliance with your request I give you my views in relation to the various Indian tribes of this "territory as far as my observation goes. In regard to the population and number of K:n;e of the tribes I have no data; of others I can speak from observation; that is to f-ay, firm Cook's Inlet to the southern boundary. From what I can learn of the extreme northwest, in the Bchring Sea to the Straits, WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. 19 the Indians lead a wandering life, and are variously designated as the "Koelmnsky," " Onossky," u Cagatsky," and "Colching." These tribes are estimated from four thou sand to live thousand. During the winter months, say from October to April, they will wander over immense tracts of country, in bauds of from fifty to one hundred, sometimes undergoing great privation ; and it has been said that they will sometimes sacrifice one of their number to save the rest from starvation. Their occupation is trapping and hunt ing the reindeer. They will travel during this season of the year from the valley of Yukon to Copper River, stopping for short periods where game and fnrs are plenty. They will sometimes touch the shores of Prince William Sound, Cook Inlet, and also the western shore, in Bearing Sea. The skins they collect are line marten, mink, silver and black fox. The few natives the writer has seen show them to bo a peaceable race and respectful to the white man, looking upon him as a superior; there is no doubt but they could be shaped into useful citizens in time. To the south, on the Aleutian chain of islands and on the peninsula of Unalaska, are the Aleutes, a very quiet race, and nearly all Christians. Their number is said to be about seven thousand. Those living on the islands are engaged in fur-sealing, sea- otter hunting, and trapping the fox, of which there are the silver, cross, and red. They are found employed at the different trading posts in the Territory. The Indians o'f Cook Inlet and adjacent waters are called "Kanisky." They are settled along the shore of the inlet and on the east shore of the peninsula. A very so ciable race of Indians, their number is from five hundred to eight hundred. During the winter months they leave the shores for the purpose of hunting and trapping, when in the spring they return to their summer homes, dispose of their winter prod ucts to traders for tea, sugar, tobacco, sheeting, prints, clothing, flour, hardware, such as knives, axes, hatchets, &c. The spring and summer, till the latter part of June, is passed in idleness, when the salmon season commences, and lasts until August, when they dry large quantities of salmon, weighing from forty to one hundred pounds each. East of Cook Inlet, in Prince William Sound, there are but few Indians ; they are called ' Nnchusk.' 7 There may be about four hundred in all, with some few Aleutes. Hutchiuson, Kohl & Co. have a post on the south end of Heueiibrooke Island, which is the depot for the furs that come down the Copper River, although they collect many sea-otter, for which the shore about the mouth of Copper River and around Middleton Island is famous. Every year, the middle of June, three or four large skin-canoes, capable of carrying live tons each, are sent up Copper River, loaded with trading goods, done up in one- hundred-pound packages, covered with water-tight skins, so that should accident hap pen, which not unfrequently occurs, the goods are portable to handle. It takes about eighty days to make the trip ; the canoes are hauled most of the way on the ice, on their ascent of the river. On the return, the winter collection of furs is brought down, the river then being clear of ice. The magazine is about eighty miles up the river. The Indians about Copper River are called " Madiinssky," or Copper Indians, and may be classed with the wandering tribes. To the east, along the coast, about one hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of Copper River, we come to Bahring Bay. The most northern of the Kolosh Indians, of which there are numerous tribes, extending to Port land Canal, all speak the same language with a little difference in dialect. They are a savage and piratical race, and as a general thing are not to be trusted. Fear of pun ishment for outrages keeps them in order. I here with add a list of the tribes from Behring Bay to the southern boundary : Residence. Xame of tribe. Xumber. Yakntat 300 1 200 Tonkas 800 Whinega 500 Cross Sound TVhinej-ia, (interior). -- 800 Chilkaht Inlet Chilkaht 2,500 Chilkaht. Inlet 300 Tukon 2,000 Sitka 1,000 Admiralty Island . ... Hoodsinoo 1,000 Knke 750 Yuk 750 Of th.3 Yakut at tribe, they have but few fnrs in the winter ; they do nothing in spring. They trade and trap with 'some Indians to the south of them, who live on some small streams that empty into the ocean. I could get no information from them respecting their neighbors, regarding their numbers and language. All they said was that they were more numerous than themselves, and they made good trade with them for marten, mink, fox, bear, wolverine, and lynx, for which they gave them, tobacco, brown sheet ing, needles, thread, knives, buttons, beads, &c. 20 WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. The Yakutats have beeu in the habit of trading with the Sitkas and Chilkahts, who in the summer season pay them visits, taking from Sitka such articles as dry goods, powder, shot, knives, and trinkets, bringing back furs. The Whinegas have but few furs ; they are chiefly employed in hair-seal fishing, of which they get abundance ; they get in trade about eight cents apiece for them. They also get some marten, mink, fox, and bear from Cross Sound. We go north to Chilkaht, at the head of the inlet so named, where there is a river on whip h are three villages ; each village is presided over by a chief. The Chilkahts are the most numerous of all the Kolosh tribes. They catch some furs about their own grounds, but the greater portion comes from the interior, or where they go to trade twice a year, spring and fall. There is no doubt but they make a big- profit on the skins they bring down. Nothing is known of these interior Indians, only what the coast Indians say, that they are called " Si-him-e-na, or Stick Indians." They will allow no whites to pass tip the rivers. The trade which the coast Indians take into the interior consists of dry goods, blankets, tobacco, powder, shot, and light flint-lock muskets, if they can get them. Although the ammunition and muskets are a prohibited trade in this Territory, still the Indians get them from the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Simpson. Steel traps, knives, hatchets, needles and thread, and little cheap jewelry, form their principal trade, for which they get in exchange, marten, mink, silver, cross and red fox, black, brown, and grizzly bear, lynx, wolverine, ermine, beaver, land otter, and some inferior skins. The price they give may be represented thus: Marten, 50 cents ; mink, 25 cents; lynx, 20 cents; silver fox, $1 25; cross and red fox, from 25 cents to 50 cents; wolver ine, 37| cents ; bear, black, 50 cents to $1 50; bear, grizzly, 50 cents to $1 50; bear, brown, 50 cents ; beaver, 20 cents to 40 cents ; land otter, 50 cents. These they exchange with the trader at an advance of from two hundred to four hun dred per cent, for such articles as they require. The traders' tariff may be quoted : For prints and sheeting, 25 cents per yard ; tobacco, $1 50 per pound ; molasses, $1 per gal lon ; powder, -$1 50 per pound; shot, 50 cents per pound ; blankets, (assorted,) $3 to 6. Steel traps, knives, vermilion, flour, hard bread, beans, rice, and some few articles in the way of clothing, pants, shirts, (cotton and woolen,) blue cloth caps with glazed covers, shoes, and some minor articles. The trading prices for skins are : Marten, $2 to $3 ; mink, 25 cents to $1 50 ; bear, black, $1 50 to $3 50 ; bear, grizzly, $1 to $3 10 ; bear, brown, 50 cents to $'2 50 ; fox, silver, $4 ; fox, cross, $1 50 to $2 ; fox, red, 75 cents to $1 ; beaver, 80 cents to $1 per pound ; land otter, $1 50 to $2 ; hair seal, 8 cents to 10 cents ; deer-skins, 15 cents to 20 cents. The above may answer for the Indians from Chilkaht to Portland Inlet. Of the Ta- koos, the same may be said as of the Chilkahts and tribes above Stephen's Passage. On the east of Admiralty Island are the Koot-se-noos. They have but few furs, but collect considerable hair seal and deer-skins. They also raise quantities of potatoes of good quality and fair size. Coming east through Pearl Straits to Sitka are the tribe of that name. They are employed in trading with the other tribes, hunting, and fishing, and are employed as porters and laborers about the town of Sitka. They also cut nearly all the cord-wood that is used by the citizens. They may be considered very useful adjuncts of the town citizens, as they are they chief purveyors, supplying them with all kinds of fish and game, such as ducks, geese, venison, grouse, &c. Going south around Baranof Island, and up through' a portion of Chatham Straits, we come to the Rat tribe on Kyro and Kespriano Islands. They catch some furs, such as lynx, bear, and hair seal, besides trading with some of their neighbors. Their tracle has fallen off considerably since the occupation of the Territory by the Americans. They formerly wro in the habit of getting their trading goods from small crafts from Victoria, but at present the Indians north, south, east, for two hundred miles, either come to Sitka or get their wants supplied JTOIH small crafts that load or are owned by Sitka merchants. Passing east and south through Frederick's Sound, we come to Wrangel Island and the mouth of the Stikine River, where are the villages of the Stikine tribe. They were some years ago a numerous tribe, but liquor and its concomitant vices materially lessened their numbers. They collect considerable marten, mink, bear, and lynx. They have formerly carried on considerable trade with the interior tribes, but since the discovery of gold in 1882, the competition of the whites has lessened their trade. The furs that are collected in this section are principally disposed of at Fort Wrangel. To the west and south of Prince of Wales Island is an off-shoot of the Hydah or Queen Charlotte Island Indians. They number some three hundred and are called An-e-ga. They, it may be said, are tho only Indians from Behring Bay to Portland Inlet that speak a different language from the rest. They raise considerable quantities of potatoes, trap mink, bear, and beaver. They also go up the Naas River in March for the collection of the hoolicon or candle-fish oil, which, when pressed, is as well flavored as leaf lard. WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. 21 In Clarence Straits and adjacent islands they are the connecting link between the Kolosh race and Simpsians on the British side. They speak the Kolosh, Sirnpsian, and Hydah tongue. They catch considerable mink, bear, beaver, wolverine, and some sea otter. The An-e-gas collect large quantities of candle-fish oil or grease. It is put up in tight cedar boxes, from fifty to eighty pounds, and taken north as far as Chilkaht, and brings good prices in furs. The Indians from Puget Sound to the northwest catch and dry large quantities of salmon ; the further north the better the salmon. In Cook Inlet the salmon commence running in June and deteriorate in quality as they go south. July and August are the months about the latitude of Sitka, and grad ually later as they go south, so that at Puget Sound in September and October they are the most plentiful, and not as good flavor. Take the Indians of the coast of the Territory they are as well supplied with the necessaries of life as the aborigines of any country in the world. The forests are filled with game, the waters with fish, and the beach and rocks with clams and muscles. They are a healthy and vigorous race ; both men and women can back very heavy loads. The men and women are more on an equality than the Indians of Puget Sound and east of the Cascade Range. They are steady and good workers for a short time say one month when they like to knock off for about the same time. The writer thinks that it would be an impossibility to turn the Indian from his vagabond life. The change to order, with laws and schools, might last for a short time, but the novelty would wear off, and they would fall back into their old ways. They soon pick up the vices, with none of the virtues, of the whites. It is the opinion of the writer that it would take a generation to shape them into useful citizens, although a partial success has been obtained by Mr. Duncan a short distance below Fort Simpson with the Chimpsians, and still they fall off. The writer is not at all prejudiced against the Indians. Wherever he has come in contact with them, which has been much in the last sixteen years, he has endeavored to show them the bad policy of their predatory ways; shows them advantages which can accrue by industry, that this may act as a stimulant. Respectfully yours, FRANK MAHONY. Hon. VINCENT COLYEK. /Special United States Indian Commissioner. APPENDIX G. Medical Director Bailey on intemperance and debauchery. SITKA, ALASKA TERRITORY, October 25, 1869. MY DEAR SIR : I inclose for your information the report of Acting Assistant Surgeon John A. Tonner, United States Army, in medical charge of the Indians in this vicinity, in conformity to instruction's given him by me. A copy of the same is inclosed. This report is instructive and contains important suggestions which, if carried out, would go far toward improving their condition. I am satisfied that little or nothing can be done until they are placed under better and more favorable influences. A greater mistake could not have been committed than stationing troops in their midst. They mutually debauch each other, and sink into that degree of degradation in which it is impossible to reach each other ttrough moral or religious influences. Whisky has been sold in the streets by government officials at public auctions, and examples of drunkenness are set before them almost daily, so that in fact the principal teaching they at present are receiving is that drunkenness and debauchery are held by us, not as criminal and unbecoming a Christian people, but as indications of our ad vanced and superior civilization. These Indians are a civil and well-behaved people ; they do not want bayonets to keep them in subjection, but they do want honest, faithful, and Christian workers among them ; those that will care for them, teach and instruct them in useful arts, and that they are responsible beings. I look upon the different military posts in this department as disastrous and destructive to their well-being; they are not, and can never be, of the least possible use ; they are only so many whisky fonts, from whence it is spread over the country. If we ever have trouble with them and become involved in war, it will be found to arise from these causes. From the nature and character of the country, posts never can render the least influence or afford protection against con traband trade ; this can only be done by armed vessels, in command of choice men. To go into detail on all points would require pages; you have seen enough to satisfy yourself; and in giving you the inclosed report I only want to add my testimony 22 WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. against what I conceive to "be a most grievous error in the management of the Indian affairs in this Territory. When you go home send us honest, faithful, Christian workers; ,not place-seekers, but those who want to do good work for Christ's sake and kingdom. Send men and women, for both are wanted. When you can do away with the evils spoken of, and which are so evident, and adopt this latter course, then there will be hope, and not until then. Sincerely your friend, * E. J. BAILEY, Surgeon U. S. A., Medical Director Department of Alaska. Hon. VINCENT COLYER. APPENDIX H. Letter from Captain Edward G. Fast (late of the United States Army,} on the character of the Koloshan Indians. WASHINGTON, D. C., March 15, 1870. DEAR SIR: In response to your letter of the 14th instant, in which you request my opinion as to the general character of the Koloshaiis, particularly whether any trou ble with them may be apprehended by the United States troops or traders, if they arc treated with ordinary fairness, I have the honor to state : As to the original character of the Koloshaus I can only corroborate the graphic description of the Hon. Charles Sunnier, in his speech on the cession of Russian Amer ica to the United States. It is doubtless familiar to you, and therefore I refrain from going into particulars. But on the other hand, the influence of their intercourse with the white man has effected so great a change of their original character that I must necessarily refer to 1 it. Thrown together with the whites for more than eighty years, the Koloshaus, like the aborigines in the western plains, have willingly adopted the vices of the white man and sacrificed many a virtue of their own. Their intercourse with the Russians was of very extraordinary character. They were never conquered by the Russians ; and in all the inimical encounters they had with them they were either victors in fact, or in a measure reaped the fruits of a victory by receiving donations of blankets and other necessaries of life, to effect a reconciliation. So they not only remained entirely independent, but were brought to the belief that the Russians feared them. To this inconsistent policy of the Russians we have to ascribe, that when the American government took possession of the country, we were looked upon with distrust and even suspicion. The Koloshans expected at least the same consideration as they had enjoyed with the Russians. In that they found themselves deceived. But more, they found that they were deprived of sundry luxuries with which they had been freely provided by the Russians ; a loss the more keenly felt as they observed the unlicensed indulgence of the Americans in the very articles withheld from them. In this respect I must principally refer to the use of liquor which had become a second nature with them. One of the first very necessary actions of the new government was the prohibition of liquor to the Koloshans, but which was enforced in a manner exceedingly humilia ting to them, and only by cunning artifices and extravagant offerings they were able to procure the much-desired whisky from the Americans. Yet they had daily before them the revolting spectacle of drunkenness and dissipation publicly and shamelessly presented by the Americans, and even by such, from whose official standing they natur ally supposed the origin and enforcement of the restrictions imposed. Who will con demn them, when they, having such examples before their eyes, were filled with deadly hatred and contempt for the Americans, who, not unfrequently, in their drunken reck lessness, heaped all sorts of insults upon them ; and who can wonder that these peo ple, injured thus in their innermost feelings, were led to deeds of violence which found so bloody and summary retribution ? From my personal experience, I know that these people can be managed by fair and just dealing. I might compare them to a stubborn and wayward boy, led astray by evil example ; he can only be managed by persevering kindness, but he must know, nevertheless, that there is the will and strength to punish insolent defiance. The Ko loshans must learn that we do not fear them, and then they will respect us ; they must be made conscious that we do not misuse them, then they will have no opportu nity to misinterpret our doings. Distrust is a leading trait in their character, and sel fishness the motive of their actions. Let us be just to them, and their mistrust will vanish, and their selfishness no longer find an ailment. In the quiet possession, and the development, of the resources of Alaska, we shall need to fear nothing more than a serious quarrel with the Koloshans. Such a quarrel has already begun, and in view WRANGEL, ALASKA, PREVIOUS TO BOMBARDMENT. 23 of their martial spirit, of their vindictive disposition, and persevering energy, will have no other termination than their complete extinction, should we not assume a policy entirely different from that hitherto exercised toward them. The relics I found among the Koloshans give proof of a comparatively high civiliza tion, and admirable skill and steadiness. By their intercourse with the white man, now they are victims of rum and whisky ; laziness and indolence have supplanted the virtues of their forefathers. The Koloshans differ very much, by many distinct peculiarities, from the aborigines in the western plains, and possess qualities facilitating an earnest and systematic effort for their civilization. As I have already advocated, on another occasion, our true policy should be to be stow upon them the blessing of civilization, and to promote their material welfare by a peaceful and benevolent management, not only for the sake of Christian philanthropy, but also for our own material interest, in order that at least their preservation, and, if possible, their numerical increase, may be secured. The influence of the climate, and the peculiarity of the soil of Southeastern Alaska, are, with few exceptions, opposed to the introduction of agriculture, the main founda tion of a new colony. All necessaries of life, which agriculture produces, have to be imported from Victoria, or from American ports, and as there are but few points on this extensive coast which enjoy a direct communication with these parts, and, as it happens not mifrequently, particularly in winter time, that several months pass before a new supply can be had, what would' become of the settler if the friendly natives did not furnish him with game, which only they know where and how to find ? And, again, without his assistance, the capture of fur animals would amount to very little, and its cost would be so large that furs from Alaska could hardly he considered as an article of commerce. In one word, Alaska, without her natives, is worthless. May these suggestions, based upon incontestable facts, and made in good faith in the sincerity of our government, contribute to the adoption of a policy that will be to the benefit of these people, ourselves, and the great cause of huinanity*aud civilization. I have the honor to be vour obedient servant, EDWARD G. FAST, Laie Captain United States Army. Hon. VINCENT COLYEII, Secretary Board of Indian Conmissioners.