'I Hi iiiiS The following Works may be had at the Depositories of the SOCIKTY/oj- PROMOTING CHllISTIAN KNOWLEDGE, 77, GllliAT aUEEN STREET, ASD 4, ROYAL EXCIIAKGE. Cfje Cljurclj in tfte Colonies. pnce. No. Publi^hcd. Diocese. Part. ». d. I. 1843, Dec. . . TORONTO 6 II. 1844, Fel). . . QUEBEC 1 8 III. 1844, March . . NOVA SCOTIA 8 IV. 1844, Aug. . . NEW ZEALAND . 1 10 V. 1845, Feb. . . AUSTRALIA ... 1 04 VI. 1845, March . . AUSTRALIA ... II. ... 6 vn. 1845, AUR. . . NEW ZEALAND . . II. ...00 VIII. 1845, Sept. . . NEW ZEALAND . . III. ... 4 JX. 1845, Oct. . . aUEliEC II. ... 6 X. 1846, Jan. . . NEWFOUNDLAND 3 Xr. 1846, Feb. . . FRKDERICTON 3 XII. 1846, April . . NEW ZEALAND . . IV. ... 4 XIII. 1S46, July . . NOVA SCOTIA . . II. ... 6 XIV. 1846, Oct. . . AUSTRALIA . . . III. ... 6 XV. 1846, Nov. . . NEWFOUNDLAND . II. ... 2 XVI. 1846, Dec. . . FREDERICTON . . II. ... 3 XVII. 1847, Feb. . . NOVA SCOTIA . . III. ... 3 XVIII. 1847, March . . QUEREC III. ... 1 XIX. 1848, Dec. . . NEWFOUNDLAND . III. ... 4 XX. 1849, March . . NEW ZEALAND . . V. ... 1 XXI. 1849, April . . NEWFOUNDLAND . IV. . .10 XXII. 1849, Oct. . . . CAPETOWN ... I. ... 1 XXIII. 1850, March . . TASMANIA 4 XXIV. 1850, June . . MELBOURNE in XXV. 1850, July . . NEWFOUNDLAND .V. ... 1 XXVr. 1851, Feb. . . NEWFOUNDLAND 3 XXVII. 1851, Sept. . . CAPETOWN ... li. ... 1 6 Nos. I. to XXII. in four volumes, cloth lettered . . 12s. Gd. The MISSIONS IN TINNEVELLY; with a Map (1845) ... 3 HISTORICAL NOTICES of the MISSIONS of the CHURCH of ENGLAND, in the North American Colonies 9 ANNALS of the COLONIAL CHURCH: Fredericton, U.; New Zealand, Zs.; Toronto, 'is. ■id.; Quebec, Zs.&d. ii-lisstoiis to t()c fitjcatftrn. Priee. N.). Pnl>li" , Auckland ''" VI ITIXKR.VRY OF THE BISHOP S VISITATIONS. Time. Place. Page Oct. 2li Chumie lil ., , Balfour, Kat River 01 ,. ii7 Post Relief (a.'icendcd VVinterberg Range) CI ,. 28 Mancazana Post (12 ,, 30 Visit to Sir A. Stockenstrom CG ."51 Great Fish River ri7 Nov. 1 Somerset (through Squaggas Hoek) 68 ,. 2 & 3 Cradock !(through a Karroo country, by the Great 69 Fish River) ,, 7 Macaster Fontein 72 „ 8 Colesberg 73 ,,13—16 Travelling 76 „ 16—20 Graaff Reinet 77 ,,21—23 Travelling 79 Sneeuwberg 80 Buffalo River 80 24 Beaufort 81 27 — Dec. 1 Travelling (desolate Karroo country) 84 Zunyberg Mountains 85 Olifant's River 87 Dec. 2 — 5 George (Second Visit) 87 ,, C— 8 Great Braak River 89 Goaritz River 89 Riversdale (Second Visit) 89 Port Beaufort 89 ,, 9 Swellendam (Second Visit) 90 ,, 12 Worcester 91 ,, 15 Mitchell's Pass 94 ,, 16 Wellington 95 ThePaarl 95 ,,17—18 Stellenbosch 96 ,, 19—20 ThePaarl 97 Malmesbury 97 21 D'Urban 99 Table Mountain 'js Protea (the Bishop's House) 99 ITINERARY IN 1850. April 1 Stellenbosch ' 2 Paarl -' ., 3 Bain's Kloof 2 „ 4 Tulbagh 3 ,, 5 Worcester •' „ 8 Mitchel's Pass * 9 The Patata River * ,, 10 Zoute Kloof 5 „ 11 Bluid Rivier '• 12 Bitter Water River G „ 13 Beaufort 6 ITINERARY OF THE BISHOP S VISITATIONS. VU Time. Place. Page April 17 Rhinoster Kop 8 IS Camdeboo 9 ,, 19 Graaf Reinet .. 9 ,, 24 Richmond 11 27 Colesberg 15 30 Philipolis l(j May 2 Bethany 19 ,, 3 Bloem-fontein 21 7 Thaba-Umchu 24 S Makquatlin 28 9 Merimotzo, Winburg 30, 33 10 Vaal River 34 ,, 12 Isaak's House 34 13 Wilge River 35 ,, 14 Drakenberg 36 ,, 17 Mooi River 39 18 Maritzburg 40 28 Botha's 47 29 D'Urban SO June 4 Mr. Lindley's Station 52 ,, 5 Mr. Lewis Grout's Station 54 ,. () Mr. Alden Grout's Station 54 ,, 7 Cotton Company's Lands 57 8 D'Urban 58 ., 10 Dr. Adams' Station 59 11 D'Urban 60 13 Botha's 62 ,, 14 Maritzburg 62 19 Indaleni 62 „ 20 Maritzburg 64 26 Mr. Davis' Station 68 July 2 Indaleni 80 ,, 5 Umzumkulu River 83 ,, 6 Ibesi River 84 ., 13 Palmerston 95 ,, 15 Umzumvoobo * !)f) ,. 17 Buntingville lOO 18 Morley Station 101 ,, 19 Beecham Wood 102 20 Butterworth 104 ,, 23 Hangman's Bush 107 ,, 24 King William's Town 107 ,, 29 East London 108 31 King William's Town 109 August 1 Fort Waterloo 110 ,, 2 King William's Town 115 „ 3 Fort Peddle 118 ,, 5 Graham's Town 119 ,, 17 Balhurst )25 „ 20 Southwell 127 ,, 21 Salem 128 22 Olifant's Hock 129 ,) 23 Commando Kraal 129 „ 24 Port Elizabeth 129 Sept. 5 Commando Kraal 138 ,, 6 Sidbury 1,38 ,, 9 Graham's Town 139 >, 25 Koonap River 141 ,, 26 Fort Hare 144 VIU ITIXKRAliV *)i- THE BISHOP S VISITATIONS. Time. Place. Paye Sept. 28 Fort Beaufort 147 Oct. 1 Mancazana 149 4 Retief 151 7 Shiloh 15.-5 ,, 8 Kama's Town 1.5(> ,, 11 Burghersdorp 158 14 Aliwal Horth IGl „ 15 Burghersdorp 163 „ 18 Cradock 164 „ 23 Mr. Liesching's 167 28 Graaff Reinet 168 Nov. 2 Somerset. 171 ,. 6 Zuurberg 174 ,, 7 Commando Kraal, Sunday's River 175 ,, 8 Uitenhage 176 12 Port Elizabeth 177 ,,^^■•-^8 Gamtoo's River 178 19 Mr. Macintosh's 179 •20 Dr. Buchan's 180 r, 22 Van Roy's 181 „ 23 Sclioonberg 182 „ 25 Belvedere 183 26 Melville 184 27 Plettenburg Bay 184 Dec. 1 Belvedere 188 2 George 188 „ 10 Riversdale 196 13 Swellendara 197 „ 18 Riversdale 198 19 Caledon 199 23 Eerste Rivier 200 „ 24 Protea 201 NOTE . JJi^. Unc moj^ci c.ot the Bi.ihops -route QTI^urct m tlj£ Colonics. No. XXII. DIOCESE OF CAPETOWN.— PART L A JOURNAL OF THE BISHOP'S YISITATION TOUR THROl'GH THE CAPE COLONY, IN 1848, WITH AN ACCOUNT Or HIS VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF ST. HELENA, IN 1849, LONDON: PRIATED FOR THE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL; SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE, GRKAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS, AND 4, ROYAL EXCHANGE ; RIVINGXONS; HATCHAR1>S; AND ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1849. Ocluber. LONDON : K. OLAV, VRINTEK, BREAD STREET HILL. NOTICE. It is due to the Bishop of Capetown to state that the following Journal of his primary Visitation through his Diocese is published without any direct sanction from his Lordship. The family of the Bishop have, however, kindly granted to the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, permission to print what, although written as a private journal, contains so much matter of public importance, and conveys such interesting details of the Bishop's valuable labours in the Church's cause. Extracts from the Bishop's correspondence are added, nar- rating his visitation at St. Helena in March and April, 1849. The accompanying Map, furnished through the liberality of Mr. J. Arrowsmith, has been adapted to the Journal. 1304264 JOURNAL OF A VISITATION THROUGH THE CAPE COLONY, In 1848. Thursday, Aug. 24, 1848.— This day I com- menced my first Visitation of the Diocese, intending to go through the Colony, and to remain out till the early part of December ; after which I am informed, that the extreme heat of the weather will compel me to return. May God grant that this Visitation may tend to the promotion of His glory, and to the ex- tension of the kingdom of His dear Son in this deso- late and long-neglected portion of the vineyard. I start far from well, and in some fear of a recur- rence of my late severe illness : my medical man, however, hopes that the journey may benefit my health. My mode of travelling is in a good plain English wagon, drawn by eight horses ; we carry with us abundant provisions for the way, in case we should either be stopped by rivers, or not able to find accommodation ; my wagon too is so arranged that I can by letting down the back of my seat make a tolerable bed for myself. * * B 2 SANDILEET. COLe's PASS. I slept the first niglit at INIr. Cloete's, Sandileet, •where I was entertained very hospitably. He is anxious to build a Church near his house. The plan he had procured was not a very correct one. I furnished him with another, and promised him 25/. from my fund, and 101. as my private subscription. I also urged liim to apply to Government for assist- ance, both towards the Church, and support of a Clergyman. Friday, All (J. 2o. — Started at six o'clock in the morning. I do not find wagon travelling so un- pleasant as I expected. It is rather rough work, but I have managed to read. We breakfasted at the foot of Sir Lowry Cole's Pass, just beyond the vil- lage of Somerset, where there is a Dutch Church and a Wesleyan Chapel, with two Missionaries for the coloured people. * * * I hope to form the villages of Erste River, Stellen- bosch, and Worcester, into a parish. After break- fast I walked in advance of the wagon over Sir L. Cole's Pass. The views were very fine, but the day, though a brilliant one, was not so clear for dis- tant views as I could have wished. Slept at Bot River. Our whole journey lay amongst the moun- tains. The views could scarcely be called magni- ficent, yet they were interesting. We passed very few houses in which I did not find English labourers. There are very few patches of cultivated ground all the way. I saw for the first time a man riding an ox. Saturday, Aug. 26. — Started a little after six CALEDON. 3 o'clock, after a good night's rest. Our route to-daj still lay through the mountains which, as we reached Caledon, dwindled down to hills. The country is very bare. Here and there only there are a few cultivated patches. The general features, however, are like our English moors. There is scarce a tree to be seen. As I approached Caledon, I met a ser- vant whom Captain Mackay, the resident Magistrate, had sent to watch for me. We drove to his house, where he had kindly prepared breakfast for me, there being no inn in the place. After breakfast I walked round the village, to look for a site for the proposed Church. The Municipality offer land, also Captain Mackay. I fixed upon sites, and requested them to have the consent of the Municipality given formally, in time for our Meeting on Tuesday. There are many English in this neighbourhood, and it is an important post for a Church and Clergyman. In the afternoon I drove on (four hours) to Captain Ranier's, where I am to have my head quarters for a day or two, while visiting the District. The country is still open, and moorish, with mountains in the distance. The season is much later here than about Cape Town. Here is scarce a flower in blossom. I find my men pass me off on the road as a very great man. To-day they drew up near some boors, who were outspanning, and waited for some time as I did not look out of my wagon ; Ludwig came to tell me they wanted to look at me. * * * Sunday, Aug. 27. — I find Captain Kanier and his family good Christian people. We have been dis- 4 CALEDON. cussing plans for providing for the spiritual wants of the District, and I hope we shall be able to get two Churches and a Clergyman. We had Divine service this morning in Captain Ranier's dining room and hall ; there were 70 persons present, and several from the neighbourhood could not attend. I baptized two children after the second Lesson ; there were fifteen communicants, several were deeply affected. We had again a full service in the even- ing, and a very good congregation. Captain Ranier leading the singing ; there were many coloured people present ; Captain Ranier reads prayers and a sermon every Sunday morning and evening, and he has good congregations. The nearest Church and Clergyman are at Capetown, three days' journey from this place. We have already 700/. for our two Churches, and hope to raise 1,000/., which will be the least amount for which they can be built. Monday, Aug. 28. — This morning brought a most unexpected letter from Mr. , saying that he purposed leaving this part of the Colony, and therefore must withdraw his subscription of 100/., and his grants of land. Though discouraged, we are resolved not to be cast down, but to make the greater exertions. Went to Colonel Dulton's, where we dined and slept. He takes up the Caledon Church very warmly. Ihiesday, Aug. 29. — Went in early to Caledon ; found a good number, chiefly of the middle classes, come in for our Meeting. We had, I think, more than 50 persons present ; nearly 120/ was raised in CALEDON. 5 the room for a Church. It was decided to adopt one of the designs I had with me, likely to cost 600/., and calculated to hold 200 souls ; many promised to collect in the District, and to write home to friends in England to assist ; several pledged themselves also to increase their subscriptions, if needed ; others offered timber, reeds, &c. ; others, again, pro- mised to draw materials : we also addressed a stronc: memorial to Government, praying for help : an ex- cellent spirit prevailed throughout the Meeting, and all seemed thankful there was a pi'ospect of having their spiritual wants supplied. Several per- sons, after the Meeting, spoke to me with much feel- ing of their wretched state in the entire absence of all means of grace, and contrasted their condition with what it had been in this respect in our own dear mother land, and in the bosom of our mother Church. One man brought two of his daughters twenty-five miles, and entreated me to confirm them. He had taken them down to Capetown to be con- firmed, and they had been for some time under Mr. Lamb's instruction, who wrote to me in their favour ; my lengthened illness compelled them to return : after some conversation with, and examina- tion of them, I confirmed them. I also baptized tv/o children of English emigrants. Captain Mackay, the resident Magistrate, gave us luncheon after the Meeting ; and in the evening I returned with Captain Ranier to Nethercourt, thankful for the result of the day, and in good hope that we shall shortly see 6 GENADENDAL. the two Churches springing up, so as to become a blessing to this desolate land. I received a note to say tliat Mr. Green had arrived by the Oriental, emigrant ship, and would follow me to act as chaplain. Wednesday, Aurj. 30. — Breakfasted this morning with Mr. Bayley, at the Oaks. Rode on afterwards about eighteen miles to the Moravian Institution, at Genadendal. The brethren and sisters received me very kindly. We arrived about twelve o'clock. As it was their dinner hour we sat down with them ; they invited me to say grace, and sit at the head of the table: but I requested them not to regard my presence ; they therefore sung their grace as usual, very beautifully. They gave me the chickens, and Captain Ranier the ham to carve, I believe, as a mark of respect. After dinner we went over the establishment, church, schools, workshop, &c. There are nearly 3,000 souls altogether in the place, and more than 600 children in the schools. There are nine young men from different tribes being educated as teachers, and with these I was pleased, though the amount of their in- formation did not seem great. "NVe heard, also, the boys and girls read and sing, and stayed some time in the infant school. There are eight brethren, with their wives and children ; with several of these I was much pleased, and the more so because they did not appear to wish to exaggerate the amount of good .done, or deny the defects of the Institution. Many of the Dutch, and some of the English find fault GENADENDAL. 7 with the system as injurious to the farmers. They complain that they cannot get labourers to remain with thera more than a month or two. To this I tliink it must be replied, that, when treated with kindness and consideration by their masters, they will be found as willing to live with them as at Ge- nadendal. Captain Ranier, who lets his people see that he cares for them, making them comfortable, and looking after their moral and religious training, reading the Scriptures to them every morning before he goes to work, finds no difficulty, and several of these people are coming to reside on his flirm. The Missionaries at Genadendal told me that there was but one genuine Hottentot in the Institution, so greatly has the race decreased. I was much sur- prised to find so miserable a library for the brethren's own use. There were scarcely any valuable books in it. Would to God the Church in this Colony could point to a work of equal importance with this, as the result of her own labours in the cause of Christ among the Heathen. The Institution is situated in a broad valley just under the mountains. The Mis- sionaries are endeavouring to improve the place by planting. It is a peaceful, quiet spot. I bade fare- well to it with regret, and promised to visit it again. The little children ran after our horses some way, crying out, " Dag our!" " Dag Mynheer!" (Good day, uncle ; Good day, Sir.) * * We returned to dinner at Mr. Bayley's, and came home in the dark. Thursday, Aug. 31. — Rode off in the morning to the mountains, to see the forests, and to fix upon 8 ZONDEK-ENDE. a site for the Zonder-Ende Cliurclj. "We had some fine views from the hills ; ordered some wood to be cut down for the Church, and paid several visits, both to the Dutch farmers and English labourers. All seemed rejoiced at the prospect of a Church, and promised to contribute to it. We fixed upon a spot on Linders Farm, where there are 150 coloured people, and, at no great distance, about the same number of English people. Friday, Sept. 1. — Started at half-past six this morning, in Captain Ranier's carriage, having sent my wagon on last evening to Mr. Vine's, where we breakfasted this morning : he has a large family, and several English labourers ; and all are living without the public means of grace ; they will, however, be only six miles from our new Church. After break- fast we journeyed on, passing through a country in all respects similar to that we had left ; an open hilly country, covered with heath and bushes, capa- ble of sustaining a much larger population than at present occupies it. A great portion of this land might be brought under the plough, and the remain- der would support a great deal more stock than there is at present upon it. In the distance, the mountains may be seen stretching all the way to Swellendam. There are scarcely any trees, but a succession of slopes and hills. We outspanned at another English farmer's, Mr, Twentyman, who has also several Enirlish families, and no Church or Clergyman of their own within 100 miles. In one of the cottages we found a poor English child of, we were told, SWELLENDAM. 9 about twelve years of age, lying in bed, apparently dying. She did not pray, and said she could not ; she knew not what prayer was, nor could she i-ead. We spoke seriously to the parents upon their neglect, and, poor child ! we all knelt down, and prayed for her. Pier parents seemed much affected. We were detained here for some time, Avaiting for some chil- dren whom their parents anxiously desired us to baptize. This made us rather late. On the road we met the post, and received a very kind note from Dr. Robertson, the zealous Dutch Minister of Svvel- lendam, inviting me to take up my quarters at his house during my stay there. He had previously placed his Church at my disposal, for afternoon service on Sunday. Tlie only opportunity our people here have of attending public worship is an afternoon service, established by Dr. R. especially for the English people. They have no Church or Clergy- man of their own within 150 miles. God grant that my visit there may lead to a change in these things. Several of our people have joined the Dutch communion ; but some are, I understand, still anxious to remain in the bosom of their mother Church, and have declined to forsake her, even though she seems to have forsaken them. About ten miles from Swel- leiidam, and just as it was beginning to grow dusk, we met Dr. Robertson, who had most kindly driven out to meet me. We got into his light carriage, and arrived at his house about eight o'clock, where he had provided dinner for us, and invited some of the leading English to meet us. I had a good deal of 10 SWELLENDAM. conversation with him. He is evidently a very intel- ligent, earnest, active man, and is most deservedly respected by every one. Indeed bis cbaracter stands as bigh as any Dutcb Minister in the Colony. I feel the great delicacy both of my position, and of the state of things here in general May God give me grace so to act and speak, as not in any way to compromise His truth, nor yet give oifence to those who differ; and may He dispose the hearts of His people here to make efforts for the erection of the House of God, and the support of a fixed IMinistry. Saturday, Sept. 2. — We held our Meeting to-day in the vestry of tlie Dutch Reformed Church. It was not well attended, many of the members of the Church holding back as I was given to under- stand, lest their presence should be considered as a slight upon Dr. Robertson. There was a long discus- sion as to what was to be done. The circumstances of this place are very peculiar. The Church peo- ple have been left entirely to themselves. They know not how to procure a pastor ; one gentleman did engage a Clergyman as tutor to his children, but he did not give satisfaction, or undertake any pastoral work. A separation soon took place, and Dr. R. took pupils. He has been the friend, the adviser, and the minister of our people. There is, therefore, naturally no sanguine feeling about our Church people, and they feel timid, and afraid to act, and w'ish, before committing themselves, to see how a Clergyman will act. They however formed a Committee for raising funds, both for Clergyman SWELLENDAM. 1 1 and Churcli. Upwards of 60/. a-year for five years was subscribed in the room, and the parties under- take to raise lOOZ., in the hope that Government will give another 100/. a-year. At present the Government School-i'oom will be used for Divine service. Considerable confidence was expressed that, if the Clergyman gave satisfaction, a church would speedily be raised for him ; and I have no doubt that such would be the case. They fixed on a plan for the Church. Whoever comes here will have a very important and difficult post ; he will need a truly Christian spirit, much judgment and discretion, activity, zeal, patience, temper — and a disposition to conciliate, without compromise. Seve- ral persons applied for confirmation. Dr. Robertson spoke of them as highly respectable people, and religiously disposed ; both Mr. Green and myself therefore undertook to prepare them as well as we could during the day, and I resolved to hold a con- firmation to-morrow. Sunday, Sept. 3. — Dr. Robertson this morning accepted in a most Christian spirit my excuses for not attending his services. At twelve o'clock, imme- diately after the Dutch morning service, we held our first service ; as we were to hold a second service, of which only notice had been given at three o'clock, I was unable to have the full morning service ; I therefore commenced with the Litany, and after that confirmed the candidates. We had a table brought out in front of the pulpit, which served as our Altar. There was a very respectable congregation, 12 SWELLENDAM. and they were very attentive. At three o'clock our service began, of which previous notice had been given. The Church was full ; we had evening prayer, and Holy Communion ; I preached ; thirteen com- municants presented themselves ; most, or all of those who, having no Minister of their own, are in the habit of communicating with the Dutch Church, did not present themselves. Instead of being sur- prised at this, I am more surprised at the hold which the Church still has upon the minds of so many of her children, whom she has utterly abandoned. I am surprised, I own, to find them under these circumstances raising 100/. a-year for five years for a Clergyman, readily and cheerfully. May God in His mercy raise up a faithful zealous pastor for this long-neglected portion of the vineyard. My visit here has been a most interesting — most painfully interesting one. Monday, Sept. 4. — I trust there is some chance of our getting two Clergymen here— one for tliis place, and one for Port Beaufort, to educate Mr. Barry's children, and others ; and to minister to the people there, and at Riversdale. I have also engaged to furnish the plans for a small Church there. We started this morning in Mr. Barry's cart, having sent our wagon on, and breakfasted with Captain Buchanan, who has a very pretty place, just facing the mountains. '" * * * Tuesday, Sept. 5. — Started at six in the morning ; outspanned at nine, lighted a fire on the grass, and had breakfast. I enjoyed our primitive mode RIVERSDALE. 13 of living very much. Arrived at Riversdale about one o'clock. The village is prettily situated, and is increasing rapidly ; our whole route to-day lay through the same kind of country as before ; but the hills are more beautiful, rising one above another with a fine mountainous background. I observe the heaths are beginning to blow. The acting Magis- trate, Mr. Hudson, rode out, with an English gentle- man, about three miles to meet us, and we found comfortable quarters at Villiers. There were only three persons at our Meeting, these three gentlemen having resolved themselves into a Committee for the erection of a Church and supply of a Clergyman ; but it was determined in the first instance to raise a sufficient sum to entitle them to have service once a month from the Clergyman of Port Beaufort and Swellendara, and they thought they could raise 60/. a-year. After the Meeting we went into the village to call upon the English people, and made out that there were about 100. Some of them seemed very respectable people, and most anxious for a Clergy- man. We also inspected the Government School, where there were ten children. The coloured chil- dren are not allowed to come till three o'clock, when the white are dismissed ; were this not done, the Dutch would withdraw their children. We called on the Dutch Clergyman, who seemed a respectable man. I was unwilling to quit this village without some religious service, our people having no Church of their own within 200 miles. I therefore sent Mr. Green after dinner to ask for the use of the 14 GOARITZ RIVER. magistrate's office., and we let the English people know that there would be evening prayer and sermon at half-past seven. We had a full room ; Mr. Green read the prayers, and I preached to them extempore for half-an-hour ; they were very at- tentive. Wednesday, Sept. 6. — Left Riversdale at six o'clock this morning ; breakfasted at a Dutch farm, La Grange (two hours) ; outspanned at Tiger Fon- tein (two hours) ; slept at Gronge's Stink River (four hours). The country, in its general features, was very similar to what we had passed through. In some parts, however, as at the Goaritz River, (which really is a river,) it is more beautiful, though there is a great want of trees. The natural roads are for the most part excellent, though in many places very rough. At the Goai-itz River we all had to keep the wagon from rolling over, by pulling it straight with a rope. We are very fortunate in the beautiful weather we have had ; one day's rain would probably have kept us several days on the banks of this river. We cannot, therefore, be too thankful for the lovely weather we have enjoyed. I have now been out a fortnight, and every day has been fine. We have passed very few houses : the land, however, is clearly capable of bearing a much larger popula- tion, and all that is wanting is capital and industry. Thursday, Sept. 7. — Passed a sleepless and excited night. I had hoped air and exercise, and fatigue, were restoring my nerves, but I find I am not so well as I imagined. Started at nine for Mossel Bay, MOSSEL BAT. lo where we arrived at half-past twelve o'clock. About seven miles from the bay we were met by Mr. Marsh, the resident mngistrate, Mr. Van Reynen, the Dutch Minister, and Mr. . No one else came to meet us, Mr. Marsh having invited all the principal resi- dents to a sumptuous tiffin. He told me most of the English were, he thought, Dissenters ; but falling in with a Mr. Elliot before dinner, who I understood was a Churchman, I soon found from him that there were many people who were anxious for a Church and Minister. He told me he would guarantee 100/. a-year to a Clergyman, provided he would take pupils. I encouraged him to form a committee, to raise the means for Church and Pastor ; the committee to correspond with me, and memorialize Government for 100/. a-year. I doubt not I shall soon hear from him on the subject. We left at four, and arrived about half-past five at Class Neegers Hartenbosch. The situation of INIossel Bay is very beautiful. The bay itself is a fine one ; and the mountains which surround it, and lie at the back of George, are bold and commanding. Upon leaving the bay, the valley and river of Hartenbosch opened out very beautifully ; and as the sun was just setting, and there was a little rain, we had before us a scene very like one of Claude's. After taking a lesson in Dutch, by reading the Testament with some of the family here, we retired early to prepare for our journey on the morrow. Friday, Sept. 8. — We had a magnificent view of the mountains, with the early sun upon them, this 16 GEOKGE. morning, during the first part of our day to the Great Braack lliver, where we outspanncd, and lighted our fire for a country breakfast, the freedom and inde- pendence of which we greatly enjoyed. Afterwards we ascended the hills before us by a near road, through a fine part of the valley. The roads in this part of the country are being fast improved. What is most wanting is the bridging of the rivers; many of those we have passed would, with a little rain, be so swollen as to detain travellers for daysj'even as it is our horses were on several occasions nearly com- pelled to swim. The road from these hills to George lies over a flat uncultivated country. I was disap- pointed in the appearance of George, which is a long straggling village, containing about 2,000 souls. There is a large ugly unfinished Dutch church, to which Go- vernment has just given 1,000/., a Romish chapel, and at least one other of no definite sect. Mr. Scott the English Clergyman, Mr. Aspinel the Civil Commi.s- sioner, and several other gentlemen were waiting to receive us. We had very comfortable quarters at a lodging-house ; a good many people called, and as we had an hour or two to spare, and I knew not when we .should have another, I went to return their calls, to look into the schools, and to see some of the members of the English Church, Mr. Scott accom- panying us. He afterwards dined with us, and we took tea at his house : on returning to our lodgings I found Mr. Dulhie had arrived from the Knysna, accompanied by Mr. Bull, the Catechist of the place, to conduct me to his house. GEORGE. 17 Saturday, Sept. 9. — A sleepless night, notwith- standing a strong opiate, from the excitement of yestei-day, consequently I felt very stupid all day. At eleven o'clock, we held our Confirmation in the ])utcli Church ; 35 were confirmed. I was pleased with their reverent and devout manner ; some seemed much affected. After service was over we held a meeting in the Court-house about our new Cliurch. It was well attended, and a plan for the Church was adopted, though the funds as yet contributed are not sufiicient for its erection. I also brought under the notice of the meeting the Church Society we have just formed, and distributed copies of the rules. We cannot, however, expect many contributions to general purposes while local efforts are so greatly required ; but I trust that, when our Churches are built, we shall be able to raise funds for Missions, Churches, Schools, &c. Being unable to cross in the afternoon, owing to the rain, to see the Montagu Pass, I spent my time in writing, and in visiting a few more of our Church people. * * * * I grieve to see the heart-burnings and strife which exist between the English and Dutch communion in this place. Sunday, Sept. 10. — Preached this morning iu the Dutch Church to an excellent congregation ; administered the Holy Communion to about twenty- five persons : spoke plainly, but affectionately to them upon their own want of love, and earnestly entreated them to cultivate a spirit of charity. In c 18 GEORGE. PAKALSDORP. the afternoon I examined Mr. Scott's Sunday School, and in tlie evening preached again to about two hundred Dutch and English. The people seemed very attentive, and most of the Dutch understand the English language. Monday, Se])t.l\. — * * * * After breakfast, I went to examine the Government School, but had not time to go through it. I thought their religious knowledge very imperfect. My wagon being pronounced too weak for the Knysna roads, I was obliged to hire another, which was taken out by oxen, which were kindly furnished by several gentlemen. We started on horseback about eleven, accompanied by several gentlemen, who wished to ride part of the way with us. We went a little way out of our road to visit the Missionary Institution of Pakalsdorp. There are about 750 souls here, living as usual in mud or wattle huts ; from 150 to 200 of these have been baptized, the remainder are still Heathen, though many of them attend the public services Avhich the Missionaries hold. I here found the most Church-like looking edifice I have seen in the Colony. It has a tower of very respectable pro- portions, and is built entirely of stone, and without a covering of plaster, which disfigures every other Church I have yet seen. There is an old Missionary here with his daughter, and a younger Missionary ; the old man is 80, and past working. The universal opinion in this neighbourhood is, that the time has come for giving up these institutions, and allowing them to merge into the parochial system ; but I am BELVIDERE. KNYSNA. 19 inclined to think that a few years must first elapse, allowing for a considerable increase of Clergymen during that period. There are two schools here, but the children had gone to their dinners. The Institution is built on Government land, a consider- able tract of which they are allowed the use of. The London Missionary Society also, whose agents they are, possesses, adjoining to the Institution, a farm of about 10,000 acres of land. After leaving this, we rode over hill and dale, and tlirough some tine wooded valleys and rivers, to Mr. Dumbleton's, u distance of about 20 miles : much of the country put me in mind of our Yorkshire coast, but we have not in England the fine range of mountains which accompanied us all the way on our left. After arriving at Mr. D.'s, I walked out with him for a mile or two to look at some lakes, formed partly by the sea, and partly by rivers : the scenery was picturesque, but they are by no means equal to our English lakes. Tuesday, Sept. 12. — Left Mr. D.'s after break- fast, and rode through a beautiful country, thirty miles to Mr. Duthie's, at Belvidere, on the banks of the Knysna : our route lay at first along the borders of the chain of lakes which I saw yesterday. We had some very beautiful views of them up and down from several points. After leaving them we travelled through a sandy valley, covered with heatii, geranium, and a variety of flowers not yet fully blown, till we arrived at a forest. Here I found liner tim- ber than I had yet seen in the Colony. The yellow 20 ISELVIDERE. KXYSXA. tree, a most useful wood fur building purposes, grows to a large size, and is a very picturesque tree ; it is usually covered witli a kind of pendant moss, which improves its appearance. Here also we found the wild vine growing over forest trees, and spreading its arms like the vine when cultivated. It is, how- ever, a different plant, and produces a sour kind of fruit, which is preserved like the cherry in brandy, and is used instead of currant jelly. The forest too was covered with a kind of sapling which shoots from the ground, and lays hold on the branches of great trees. It has the appearance of a thick rope fasten- ing the trees to the ground, and is called the monkey ladder. The forest abounds with monkeys and baboons, but we did not see any. The Castor-oil plant grows here in great abundance ; I observed several new flowers, none of them however of any great beauty. We crossed several rivers, some of which were deep, their banks are high and rocky, and well wooded. In one my horse was nearly driven to swim, tlie Avater pouring over the tops of my horse- guard boots. We arrived about sunset at Belvidere, and had a beautiful view of the Knysna : here there is a fine sheet of water, which forms the basin of a harbour, but the beauty of the scene is somewhat spoiled by the low land which rises up in several places, giving the lake the appearance of being marshy. The harbour would I believe be a fine one, were it not for the entrance which is very narrow, and lies between high rocks. I like, how- ever, what I have seen of this neighbourhood very PORTLANDS. 21 much ; it is a fine country, and has great capabilities ; it is better wooded too than any part of the Colony I have yet seen. Mr. Duthie's house borders on the lake, and has a beautiful prospect before it. Mr. Bull (catechist) who is also tutor to Mr. D.'s chil- dren, is happily situated in this excellent family, and is esteemed by all for his zeal and earnestness. Wednesdatf, Sept. 13. — After breakfast this morn- ing we rode in a heavy rain to Portlands, ten miles, where Mr. Bull had fixed for me to hold a service ; and vv^here he had some candidates for baptism. The place is one of his monthly stations. Mr. Duthie dressed me out in a very long Mackintosh, and I exchanged my hat for an oil-skin jockey cap, which had no very episcopal appearance. Notwithstanding all, however, I soon got wet. The country we passed tlirough Avas very beautiful, and we had some good views of the water, as the weather partially cleared up. There were about thirty persons present, most of them coloured, to whom I preached extempore, as simply as I could, from Ephes. ii. 1 — 5 : we returned to Belvidere by four o'clock, and we had another service in the evening, when I again preached : we had also an adult heathen prepared for baptism by Mr. Bull, whom I baptized. Thursday/ Sept. 14. — After breakfast walked out with Mr. Duthie, to determine upon the site of the Belvidere Church. We fixed upon a beautiful spot, commanding a very fine viev/ of the lake. Mr. Duthie also gives land for a parsonage. We de- cided upon one of Butterfield's plans for the Church, 22 PLETTENBERG DAT, which is to hold 100 ; but is capable of enlargement. At one o'clock, four gentlemen came over from tlie other side, dressed in their Jerseys, and with flags flying, to row me over the lake. As we arrived at Melville various flags were hoisted. After calling upon several of the inhabitants we rode out, a tolera- bly large party, to Mr. Rex, and thence to Mr. Sutherland's, to dine and sleep. Friday, Sept. 15. — We started early this morning for Plettenberg Bay, where I am to hold two ser- vices, and fix upon the site of the Church. The morning service, when I preached, was held in Mr. Newdigate's house : no notice had been given, but we had about twenty persons present. After service we rode to Captain Sinclair's at the bay, fur after- noon service ; but as no notice had been given here, it Avas found impossible to collect the people, and we walked on to Capt. Ilarker's, at the Residency, where I was to dine and sleep. The country be- tween the Knysiia and Plettenberg Bay is well wooded and very hilly, and I think as fine a part of the Colony as any that I have yet seen. I observed here the India-rubber tree growing in one or two gardens. 'Mr. Newdigate's farm is situated in a lovely valley. Saturday, Sept. 16. — Walked out early with Capt. Harker, over the Residency farm. The house has a famous hall which as a church would hold 200 people. After breakfast we mounted our horses, to return to Melville, where I had appointed the public meeting to be held. We had a very warm ride of MELVILLE. 23 twenty miles ; our meeting, which was well attended, passed off most satisfactorily. We shall, I trust, ere long have three churches in this parish, one at Bel- videre, one at Melville, and one at Ivnysna. The Melville Church, for which I have furnished the plans, is to be begun immediately, and a further subscription is to be raised for the support of the Clergyman. It already amounts to about 50/. Mr. Sutherland, who has built a school here, has applied to me for a teacher. I trust I may soon be able to send both Clergyman and Schoobnaster to this district. In the evening we returned to Mr. Suther- land's, who had invited a large party of the neigh- bouring gentlemen to meet us. Sunday, Sept. 17. — A sleepless night — feverish from the extreme heat of yesterday. This day was also extremely warm. After breakfast, I walked to the school which Mr. Sutherland has just built, and where our services are held for the present, a distance of about three miles. The school-room was decked out with flowers, and was soon filled to over- flowing with a devout congregation. I observed no less than nine wagons, several of the Dutch families having come in for our services. I confirmed 27 persons, chiefly adults, who had been very carefully prepared by Mr. Bull ; many both males and females were deeply aflfected, and all, I believe, felt that the services were exceedingly interesting; certainly a very solemn feeling pervaded our assembly. I could not help expressing my gratitude to God for the sight before me. A congregation of 130 souls, 24 avoxtkdp:r. lange kloof. 30 communicants, 27 candidates for confirmation, where only a few months before there were no pub- lic means of grace, no Clergyman within 150 miles, no Church within 350. In the afternoon, we had another full congregation. I jireached and bap- tized several children after the second lesson. Blondaji, Sept. 18. — Rose at five o'clock this morning, intending, if possible, to reach Mr. Son- tag's farm at Avonteuer in the Lange Kloof by even- ing, but doubtful whether we could accomplish it. We started a party of about twelve, several gentle- men being anxious to accompany us part of the way, and ]\Ir. George Rex and Mr. Sutherland intending to proceed the whole way with us. After about an hour's journey we arrived at the Queen's forest, through which we were to pass by a road or path recently cut out by the road commissioners, under the direction of IMr. Sutherland. Here most of the gentlemen took leave of us. I could not part from them without thanking them, warmly and sincerely, for their kind attentions and hospitality during my short visit amongst them. From the time that I arrived at George till the hour I reached Avonteuer, I have never moved without being attended by one or more of these gentlemen : others have sent their oxen for my wagon, and I have not been permitted to be at any expense while amongst them. After parting from our kind friends, we dived into the forest, which extends a distance of many miles. Where we crossed it, it Avas eleven miles broad. The timber in this forest is very fine, and has for the queen's fouest, 25 most part probably never been touched since the creation. Here and there we saw huge trees lying about and perfectly rotten ; others still standing were of a very large girth. The chief kind of wood were the Assegai iron tree, stink wood, yellow wood, ash, white elm. The stink Avood is, when cut into, perfectly black. The yellow wood is by far the largest tree, and is of immense size. We saw no wild animals, though the forest abounds in ele- phants, buffaloes, leopards, hyenas, wild boars, &c. We saw the spoor of the elephant, and his tracks, and we met a farmer Avho had seen three on Friday, and Sir. Sutherland saw five on his return a day or two after in the forest. A thunderstorm came on, and the lightning was very vivid ; one flash came close to us, and this, with the instantaneous clap of thunder, so frightened our horses that they bounded under us and ran away, Mr. Green's horse throwing him. After emerging from the forest, the weather cleared up, and we found ourselves in an open country, amidst heath bush ten or twelve feet high, with magnificent views all around us. The picture, indeed, was very striking, the clouds hanging round the mountains showed them to the best advantage, and the effect of light and shade was very beautiful. After riding about five hours we came to a farm, where fresh horses had been provided for us : we tlien proceeded over a totally different country from that which we had just left. For the x-est of the day we scarce saw a tree, but passed over several distinct ranges of mountains. Here the scenery was very 26 AVONTEDEU. wild and magnificent, and put me more in mind of some parts of vSwitzerland, than any other portion of the Colony I have yet seen. Night overtook us in the mountains, and we did not arrive at Avon- teuer till eight o'clock in the evening, and then found that our wagon, which had left for Avonteuer on Friday, had not yet arrived. Here we learnt that we had a second mercy to be thankful for, on this day. Mr. had set three spring guns on the very path by which we reached his house, to shoot a tiger which has of late been destroying his flocks. This has been to me one of the most in- teresting days I have passed in the Colony. Let me feel thankful to Almighty God, that I am able to endure so much fatigue as I have done in this long day's journey, without suffering from it. Tuesday/, Sept. 19. — Rose early this morning to visit the Missionary Institution at Avonteuer, be- longing to the London Society. The Missionary's name is Mr. Hood, who is at the same time school- master, doctor, and farmer. He seems an intelligent and right-minded man. There are about 500 people of all ages connected with the establishment, which is conducted on somewhat different principles from any that I have yet seen. The people have an allot- ment of about three acres of garden or arable land, which is leased to them for twenty years, with a right of renewal, at a rent of thirty shillings a year. Upon this they build their own houses ; they have in addition a right of pasturage over the farm, and others pay ten shillings a year for a smaller allot- LANGE KLOOF. 27 ment. This Institution, like all the rest, is very unpopular with the farmers, chiefly on the score of their inability to get labourers from them. The right is retained by the Institution of dismissing im- proper characters, who are however entitled to com- pensation for improvements. I find I shall not be able to visit either the London IMissionary Society's Institution at Hankey, or the Moravian at Clarkson, as they both lie out of my way, and I am anxious to be at Uitenhage on Saturday. We drove through the Lange Kloof, which is a valley between mountains, through abominable roads to Rademeger, at Lond- water, where we slept. Here I found a schoolmas- ter who, as is frequently the case in country parts in the Colony, v/as engaged in teaching several Dutch farmers' families. Mr. Scott, of George, wrote to me some time since about receiving him into the Church. He was brought up a Roman Catholic, but partly through reading the Scriptures, partly the Prayer Book, and partly Blunt's Lectures on the Articles, became convinced of the errors of the Church of Rome. He had been most anxious to be confirmed by me at George, but v/as taken ill upon the road ; I therefore confirmed him this evening, and gave him some Prayer Books, out of which he has been in the habit of teaching his Dutch pupils, and whicli he uses in performing service on Sun- days ; wliicli he has been in the habit of doing. The poor man seemed very thankful, and very earnest about himself, and is a striking instance of the way in which God makes up by extraordinary 28 LAXGi: KLOOF. ST. FRANCIS V.XY. methods the grace that cannot be supplied by orili- nary means. Mr. Scott spoke very well of him, as did Mr. George Rex, who knew him well. Wednesday, Sept. 20. — An early start at six o'clock. Our road still lay through the Lange Kloof, and was, if possible, worse than our yesterday's route. The only object of interest to-day w^as the sight of some Kaffir cranes, which are elegant and beautiful birds. About themidille of the davAve passed from the Lange Kloof to the Kronime River, and at the same time from the George to the Uitenhage district. We passed several farms, with a scattered population. The general features of the country are like yesterday's — a valley lying between high and bare hills. Thursday, Sept. 21. — Rose at five ; out.spanned for breakfast at ten o'clock at E-chenbosch. Roads still very bad ; country somewhat tarae. Outspanned again at two at Moulinans, and arrived at six at Human, where we slept. The weather is still beau- tiful, and our roads have greatly improved, the country not having been torn up by the rains. Friday, Sept. 22. — Breakfasted this morning at Captain Boys', St. Francis Bay. He and his sister Mrs, Macintosh, with their families, are separated from the public means of grace by a distance of fifty miles. Captain Boys reads on Sundays the service of the Church. They seemed anxious about a Clergy- man, and the education of their children. I baptized their youngest child. Captain Boys rode on with us to Mr. Barnard's, where we had luncheon. The UITEXHAGE. 29 country this day has been flat and uninteresting, till we passed the Kamtoos river, when we entered upon a hilly and well wooded country ; we crossed the Kamtoos by a ferry ; the wind blowing strong, and the tide rolling in, Ave had a somewhat rough passage ; we slept at Field-Cornet Newkirk's. Saturday, Sept. 23. — The first part of this day's journey was performed with oxen, the road being very difficult and precipitous ; the views, however, were very beautiful, especially in passing the Kloof Bosch river. After passing through a well wooded and mountainous country for two hours, we arrived at an extensive plain, on which we outspanned for breakfast, near a muddy stream, which supplied us with water for our tea. This plain continued till ^ve arrived near Uitenhage, which lies very prettily just under the hills. We reached our very comfort- able quarters at about half-past one, accompanied by the civil commissioners, Mr. Bennett and Mr. Cope- man, who had ridden out to meet us. We w^alked in the afternoon about the village, to fix upon a site for the Church ; and my evening was spent in re- plying to the large packet of lettei'S which I found awaiting my arrival. Sunday, Sept. 24. — Our service in the morning was held as usual in the Court House, where aboutlOO Avere present. I preached from Luke xiv. 27. " And whosoever doth not bear his cross, and come after me, cannot be my disciple." In the evening Ave held service in the Dutch Church, which I Avas informed would be lent if Avished. I preached again to a large 30 CITENHAGE. and attentive congregation. My motive in using tlie Dutch Church was the hope that it might lead to a kindlier state of feeling than, unhappily, exists in this place. Monduy, Sept. 25. — We held our Confirmation this morning at 12 o'clock in the Dutch Church. There ■were fourteen candidates, a very small number consi- dering the amount of the English population here. The Church was quite full, and many of the poor coloured people were standing round the door. I grieve that the prejudices which exist so strongly in other parts of the Colony, with respect to the coloured people, should be found here also, and that they should not be admitted to worship together witli their white brethren, and to partake of all Christian ordinances Avith them. The feeling which keeps them at a dis- tance is utterly unchristian, and those who indulge in it cannot look for God's blessing. At two o'clock I attended the Meeting of the parishioners, of Avhich I had given notice in the Town Hall. I brought before them the sulyect of their Church, Clergyman's stipend, Churchyard, Church Society, &c. * * * Dined in the evening at Mr. Tennant's, civil com- missioner, who had invited a party of gentlemen to meet me. Tuesday, Sept. 26.— -^^ * * * At four o'clock I hehl a Jleeting of the Church Building Committee, when I laid before them my suggestions as to the course to be immediately ])ursu(.'d with reference to the Church, and their Minister's stipend ; and also with relation to some BETHELSDORF. PORT ELIZABETH. 31 Other points. These were unanimously adopted, and will, I trust, be shortly acted upon. Dined in the evening with the Judge, who came into the village this morning on circuit, and called to invite me. Wednesday, Sept. 27. — Wrote letters very early. After breakfast I Avent with Mr. Copeman to examine the Dutch School, and the Government School. Paid a short visit to the Court ; then made some calls ; and started at one o'clock for Port Elizabeth. In our way visited the Missionary In- stitution at Bethelsdorf. The Society here (London) have about 24,000 acres of land. The village con- sists of about 300 people, who have no other employ- ment than attending to their cattle, there being seai-cely any land fit to be cultivated on the farm. People seem to be dissatisfied with it. * * * We arrived at Port Elizabeth before six, and met Mr. M'Cleland, Mr. Ilerries, Mr. Frere, &c., who were waiting to receive us. Port Elizabeth has more of the appearance of an English place than any we have seen since we left Capetown ; it reminds me forcibly of some of the new settlements spring- ing up in so many places in our mother land, and is evidently rapidly rising in importance. I felt quite cheered at seeing anything so English ; but my spirits were soon cast down by hearing that Church matters were not in a comfortable state. Thursday, Sept. 28.— Early part of day spent in receiving visitors, surveying the town, with a view to the selection of sites for future Church, Schools, 32 PORT ELIZABETH. parsonage, le tower and spire, is well situated in the centre of the town. Having arrived a day sooner than was expected, I prevented the parishioners from riding out to meet me, as they informed me they had intended to do. I found a packet of about thirty lettei^s awaiting me, several of them from England, containing accounts of the falling off of my subscriptions, just as I have been pledging myself to near 400/. a-year beyond what I had raised in England. But God will provide. He will not suffer His work to languish for want of a few hundred pounds. Friday, Nov. 17. — Reading letters and writing. Walked about the town to look at the site of the Church and Churchyard. In the afternoon drove round the town. Visitors kept dropping in the whole day from morning to night. Satui'clai/, Nov. IS. — Confirmed forty-eight can- didates this morning, many of whom were deeply impressed. Afterwards held a meeting of the parishioners, when a plan for a Churcli was decided upon, a fresh subscription entered into in support of their Minister, memorials di'awn up to the Governor applying for land for Churchyard and Glebe, Church Society explained and founded. Pastoral Letter addressed by me to the Clergy, enlarged upon. The meeting lasted nearly four hours. I trust the Church here will soon be begun, as the money collected or promised exceeds 900/. GRAAFF REINET. 79 Sunday, Nov. 19. — Divine Service with Holy Communion in the Dutch Church : many of the Dutch were present. I preached on the necessity of comin"- unto Christ in order to salvation, and the way in which men must come. So long have our people in this congregation been deprived of the Holy Communion, that very many seem not to know how the Sacrament is administered in the English Cliurch. I have both confirmed here, and adminis- tered the Holy Communion to some who were brought up in the Dutch Church. I believe that there are many of the more educated of that commu- nion, who, where they have an oppoi-tunity of judg- ing of our Church, prefer it much to their own. I preached again in the evening on the spirit in which we should enter upon the erection of the House of God. Our collection to-day for Holy Vessels amounted to upwards of 18/. Blondarj, Nov. 20. — AYriting letters in the morn- ing. At eleven, went out to return calls ; in which occupation I was engaged during the remainder of the day. Tuesday, Nov. 21. — I leave Graaff Reinet with much satisfaction, feeling assured that Mr. Long will devote himself, as he has hitherto zealously done, to the work of the ministry ; and that God's cause will prosper there. I have heard to-day that the impression made by the Confirmation has been most happy and salutary; and that some, at least, are resolved to live as members of Christ, and children of God. Some Jews sent a contribution to our 80 SNEEUWBEUU. Church, having heard the afternoon sermon yester- day, in which I endeavoured to stir up our people to take part in the erection of tlie house of God, as a high privilege, by showing the spirit in which God's ancient people engaged in the erection of the taber- nacle, and the rearing and restoring the temple. At six o'clock this morning, we started on horse- back, accompanied by Mr. Ilewatli, the churcli- warden, who kindly lent us horses, and Mr. Southey: they rode with us till ten o'clock. Shortly after we passed by a very singular and beautiful waterfall, which fell from the edge of our road into a very deep valley beneath. Afterwards our route lay along a valley, which had no very interesting features. The country is much burnt up, and there are no trees. Our day's journey was about filty miles. We slept at Rhenoster-fontein. Wednesday, Nov. 22. — The Sneeuwberg, through which we are passing, is a somewhat richer country than we have of late seen ; tlie i'arms exhibit signs of wealth, and here and there, where there is a " fontein," there are patches of arable land covered with luxuriant crops. If only there were more rain, or rivers which continually flowed, or if there were greater eflforts made to preserve what water does fall, the greater part of the valleys wliich we passed through might undoubtedly be brought under the plough. The general features of the country, however, present but a barren appearance. We passed the night on the edge of the Buffalo River, whose broad basin, however, was nearly dry. BEAUFORT. 81 My tent, which was pitched in the sand, was so loosened from its holdings by the wind, that it kept flapping all night, and the sand drifted into my bed, so that I scarce got any rest. We enjoyed, how- ever, the freedom of our mode of life, and lay gazing on our magnificent canopy of stars. Thursday, Nov. 23. — Being ready before the wagon, I had an enjoyable walk of two hours in advance. During the day we saw a great number of ostriches. We were quite rejoiced again to see the Mimosa, of wiiich a fortnight since we were quite weary. Anything green is pleasing, after the dreary waste of dry and withered buslies, by wliicli we have been of late surrounded. We halted at night at a f^irm about four hours distant from Beaufort, and slept in tent and wagon. Friday, Nov. 24, — Arrived in Beaufort about ten o'clock, our horses appearing somewhat fagged. I find the Civil Commissioner has never received my letter, and that I was, consequently, not ex- pected. He however soon engaged lodgings for us, and we got some breakfast before twelve o'clock. It is very unfortunate that no notice could be given of my visit, for most of the English population reside in the country, there being, I am told, not less than forty farmers in the neighbourhood. I have, how- ever, notified my desire to meet the inhabitants to- morrow, and to hold service in the Dutch Church. I found another packet of English letters here, and one from , announcing the arrival of the Archdeacon, and seven Clergy and Catechists. 82 BKAUFORT. Spent the day in writing letters, and calling upon and conversing with the English inhabitants. Saturday, Nov. 25. — Morning spent in receiving visits, inspecting and examining the heathen school, and calling upon some of the English people. I found one lady, who said she had been thirty-eight years in the Colony, without seeing any Minister of her own Church. Several more, having quite despaired of ever having a Clergyman near them, have joined the Dutch Church. There is, however, a little congregation here of members of the En- glish Church, who meet together every Lord's-day, to read the Church Service. Mr. Eraser, the Dutch Minister, received us very kindly, and assured me he should give up the English service which he now holds, as soon as an English Clergyman is appointed. Examined the Government school. There appears to be an excellent teacher here. I held a meeting of the English inhabitants at three o'clock, in the Court-house, in order that we might take steps for the erection of a Church, and the raising of a stipend for a Minister. It was very well attended, though the notice was so short, — but none of the country people could be present. Nearly 200/. was raised in the room for a Church ; and this, it is expected, will be greatly increased : nearly 50/. a-year for five years pledged for a Clergyman, and this also will be much increased. Memorials were drawn up and signed, requesting the Governor to give a site for a Church, &c., and to meet their sub- scription by grants both towards Cliurch and Pastor. BEAUFORT. 83 I was not able to promise them much assistance, being pledged already to an extent beyond the funds placed at my disposal. After the meeting, in the evening, several persons came to see me, on cases of conscience. They spoke in affecting terms of their spiritual destitution, and of the awful condition into which many English settlers have sunk, from vrant of the means of grace ; and expressed their joy at the prospect of a change. One gentleman declared, though his family had, from lack of means in their own ChurcJi, joined another communion, yet that in their hearts they were with their ancient mother ; and that they should return to her fold as soon as they had the opportunity : at my next Visitation, he and his three sons would present themselves for Confirmation, and would have done so now, had there been sufficient time to prepare for it. Sunday, Nov.2Q. — We held service this morning in the Dutch Church. There was a large congrega- tion of Dutch and English. There were but few communicants. Several wished to have approached the Lord's Table, but were deterred from want of preparation, the notice having been so short ; and possibly, also, from having, in this their spiritual wilderness, thought but little of it. The Evening Service was at five o'clock, Mr. Eraser omitting his usual English service. There was a good congrega- tion. I preached on both occasions. In the after- noon, at Mr. Eraser's request, I addressed both the coloured and Dutch Sunday-school, who were brought into the church for that purpose. His clerk 84 KARROO COUNTRY. interpreted for me. The coloured school consisted chiefly of adult heathens. Poor things, they seemed very attentive. In the evening, many of the inha- bitants came to bid us good-bye, and to wish us a prosperous journey; and some of them sent us cakes, honey, and milk, for provision by the way. 3Ionday, Nov. 27. — Rose at three o'clock, but was delayed some time, waiting for the horses I had engaged. I thought it prudent to send on my own horses a day in advance, lest they should be quite knocked up on our long journey to George, over a road but little known, but known to be a bad one. Our route to-day has been along a dreary, barren, desolate Karroo. We have performed, however, nearly seventy miles, over a rough road. Our horses stuck for some time in the dry bed of a river, and I thought we should have to remain there till the next thunder-storm washed us all away. After whipping the poor jaded horses for some time, our men suggested that Green and myself should put our shoulders to the wheel, which we accordingly did, and at length got out. "We outspanned for the nigl\t near a little muddy pool in the bed of the river ; and here again we were obliged, as it was growing dark, to become hewers of wood for our fire, and drawers of water; while our men were pitching the tent, lighting the fire, cooking our supper, and feeding the horses. Tuesday, Nov. 28. — We rose again between three and four. I walked on, and the wagon did not over- take me till I reached Swanapools, where our horses ZUNYBERG MOUNTAINS. 85 were waiting for us. I had a pleasant walk for two liours. We started immediately with our ov/n horses, and ti'avelled as usual, till we arrived at the top of the Zunyberg Mountains, over which we had to pass, where one of our wheels gave way with a great crash. By my calculation of distances, I con- sidered that we could not be more than half-an-hour from a farm ; and therefore I started on foot, with Ludwig, to get assistance, leaving Green in charge of the wagon. We walked on till near nine o'clock before we reached a house, and found ourselves twelve miles beyond the place where I was told there was a house, but where we found there was none. I was very tired before we reached the place, and was thankful, on arriving at a pool of water, to kneel down like the cattle and drink ; but would have gladly given up my place to our poor parched horses, who had no water within several miles of them. We found it was too late to send a wagon that night, the oxen not being in the kraal ; I therefore asked if I could sleep at the farm. The good people readily assented, but alarmed me by covering the floor of my room with beds for the whole family, which, however, from a hint from Ludwig, they moved into another room, to my great consolation. I did not sleep well, having still a superabundance of unpleasant bedfellows. Wednesday, Nov. 29. — Early in the morning I despatched Ludwig with an ox-wagon, and a cask of water for the horses, while I walked on to see a wheelmaker, who happened to live near, about 86 KARROO COUNTRY. making us a new wheel. I found him engaged in repairing another wagon that had broken down, but he promised despatch. I feel somewhat crippled with my walk of twenty-five miles yester- day, under a hot sun. Having no books, nor any writing materials, my day was but a dull one. I spent the greater part of it under the shade of some mimosa bushes, reviewing my work, meditating upon various subjects, and looking out anxiously for the wagon. Our wheelwright, in spite of his promises, went to bed before I did. The wagon did not return till nearly nine o'clock. They were once upset, Avhich did not improve the condition either of the vehicle or its contents. Tliursdaij, Nov. 30. — We find the benefit of carry- ing provision with us, as we are nearly reduced to living on our own stores. Christian produced an ostricli's egg, which he had got from a coloured woman during his journey yesterday, and it satisfied the hunger of our whole party. I do not much admire the flavour ; it is too rich. Our men all set to work upon the wheel, and I fear it will not be finished to-night. We spent our day chiefly in reading, and writing letters. Walking up a small valley, we came to a waterfall, and a very deep pool under rocks, perhaps 600 feet high. Here we en- joyed a very cold bath. I swam under the fall, which was not a very great one. Friday, Dec. 1. — Our repairs were finished early this morning, and we got otf at nine o'clock. AVe were thankful to get quite out of the Karroo country, LANGE KLOOF. 87 whicli is essentially " a barren and dry land where no water is." The country here is in some respects interesting. The mountains are bold and rugged, but still want trees. There is scarce any green thing except the mimosa. We had hardly crossed the Olifants River before we met Mr. Sutherland, from the Knysna, who had ridden at least 100 miles to meet us. Shortly after we were met by Mr. Walter, of George, who had ridden as great a distance, and had been waiting for us more than a day. He most kindly came out to see that the horses, which were gratuitously furnished to us by the different farmers along the road for the last eighty miles, at the re- quest of their Minister and the Civil Commissioner, Avere in readiness. Had it not been for this act of kindness, it would have been very difficult for us to reach George by Saturday evening. We slept at Mr. Commr. Van Rooyen's, who entertained us most hospitably, and would take no remuneration. Saturday, Dec. 2. — We had oxen to take us over the mountains. I was very glad to find myself in the Lange Kloof. It seemed quite like an old fi'iend, and made us feel we were again approaching home. We travelled at a rapid pace with fresh horses, breakfasting at Mr. Ignatius Van Rooyen's, and dining with Mr. Richardson, who has a very large establishment of seventy souls on his farm. His buildings are the best of any that I have seen in the Colony ; and I was very glad to find that he had erected very comfortable houses for his coloured ser- vants. I understand he finds no difficulty in pi'O- 88 MONTAGU PASS. GEORGE. curing servants, for he lets them see he takes an interest in them — attending to their spiritual as well as their temporal wants ; holding Divine Service for them on Sunday : and I am persuaded if more of the farmers would follow his example, they would be equally successful, and find the benefit of their efforts, even in a temporal point of view, I was very much struck with the Montagu Pass. Tiie scenery is really very fine ; the mountains grand and picturesque, and very Alpine. The road is an excellent one, and well engineered. We arrived at George about seven o'clock, and found a large party of gentlemen awaiting us. We took up our quarters at the house of Mr. Garcia, who was kind enough to invite us, and where we had soon a numerous party of visitors. I found many of our old friends from the Knysna, who had come up to meet us. David- son met us at Mr. Richardson's, and I had a good deal of conversation with him. Sunday, Dec. 3. — We had Divine Service twice to-day. I preached, in the morning, on the prepara- tion of heart required for a due commemoration of Christ's first coming into the world ; and in the evening, upon his second coming. Monday, Dec. 4. — Wrote all the morning, chiefly letters of business. In the afternoon, returned some calls. In the evening, we had a dinner party. Tuesday, Dec. 5. — Day spent in writing, making arrangements with the Churchwardens, calling on various people. In the evening dined with the Civil Commissioner. GOARITZ RIVER. PORT BEAUFORT. 89 Wednesday, Dec. 6. — Started at five o'clock this morning. Outspanned and breakfasted at the Great Braak River, at the same spot as we did more than three months ago. Puslied on in tlie evening till it became dark, when we could find no water ; and therefore travelled on till we reached the Goaritz River after ten o'clock. We did not get to sleep till near midnight, as the tent took some time to pitch. Thursday, Dec. 7. — Up again before four o'clock this morning. We forded the Goaritz River, taking off our shoes and stockings at a drift where it is some- times 150 feet deep. Suspecting our horses might fail at this which is a steep, sandy drift, I watched for the wagon from the height of the opposite hill. Unfortunately my suspicion proved but too true. For the first time in a journey of two thousand miles they were beaten, greatly to the vexation of our driver. Here we had to remain several hours, waiting for a span of oxen. At length our patience being wearied out, we emptied our wagon, carrying its contents to the top of the hill. The horses then took it up with ease. We slept at a f;irm about two hours distant from Riversdale. Friday, Dec. 8. — Breakftisted with Mr. Hudson at Riversdale. Major Shaw, the Magistrate, spoke to me very earnestly about a Clergyman, and thought that 50/. or 60/. a-year might easily be raised. He is to communicate with me on the subject. We determined to go a little out of our way to Port Beaufort, which I missed when last here, to see 90 SWELLENDAM. Mr. Barry, and the foundation of his Church, according to plans furnished by me which are already laid : we slept at his house, and walked to see the mouth of the Breede River. The want of good water -will probably prevent this becoming ever a considerable port. Saturdaij, Dec. 9. — Sent on my wagon early, and followed myself later in Mr. Barry's wagon, with some of his family who were going up to Swellendam for the Sunday Service. The distance is thirty-six miles, and tlie country has a very dreary appearance, being much burnt up, and entirely without trees. Sunday, Dec. 10. — "We held Divine Service in the Dutch Church, morning and evening, I preached in the morning on our Lord's second advent. Green in the evening. After morning service I confirmed a lady who had been most anxious for Confirmation wdien I was last here, but had had no notice of it, and determined to go to Capetown to partake of the ordinance, though in a bad state of health. Monday, Dec. 1 1 . — Rose at three o'clock ; started about four on my route to "Worcester. The weather is getting very Avarm, and the country very dry and burnt up. At Swellendam upwards of lOOZ. a-year has been raised since I was here, in support of a Clergyman. I trust I may be able to send one shortly. The village is one of the neatest and most cheerful looking in the Colony. Our route lay through a pleasing valley, lying between mountains, and capable I should think of being cultivated to a great extent ; and of bearing a large population. WORCESTER. 91 We slept at Mr. Van Tyler's, a Dutch farmer of some intelligence. Tuesday, Dec. 12. — Amved at Worcester about five o'clock. The distance from Svvellendham is, I think, about ninety miles. The day was intensely hot, and we enjoyed much a bathe in the river. Worcester is very beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains. It was apparently intended, when laid out, for a large town ; but at present contains, including the coloured people, not more than three thousand souls. The houses are at a gi-eat distance from each other, and surrounded by fields or gardens. The soil seems rich, and is well watei'ed. We took up our abode at the Drosdy House, having been kindly invited to do so by Mr. Truter, the Civil Commissioner, a most agreeable and gentlemanly person. This house was built as a shooting box by Lord C. Somerset, when Governor; and is one of the best in the Colony. The gardens about it are excel- lent. The premises, which are too large for any private person, would make admirable buildings for a College. Wednesday, Dec. 13. — Went before breakfast with Mr. Truter, to visit the gaol. The only prisoner is a Dutch farmex", who recently beat his wife to death because she remonstrated with him for pre- tending to celebrate the Lord's Supper when in a state of intoxication. He has for the last few days become at times insane, apparently from remorse and despair. I spoke a few words to him respecting repentance and pardon, but it was too much for 92 AVOKCESTER. him. He became convulsed, and I was obliged to leave him. Crimes like his are very rare in this Colony ; but, as in the mother country, in most cases they have their origin in drink, to which there are but too many temptations. After breakfast I exa- mined the government school. I found the teacher here, as elsewhere, cramming the children with natural philosophy, and all kinds of hard words, the meaning of which they did not understand, instead of giving them a plain useful education, suited to their circumstances. I was pleased, however, with the knowledge which two or three children exhibited of the history of the Old Testament. At eleven o'clock I held a meeting of the English inhabitants in the vestry of the Dutch Church. There were not many present, nor indeed are, there many in the place, and these are chiefly poor. Several offered themselves as candidates for Confirmation ; and one or two seemed very anxious to have a Clergyman placed amongst them ; but I fear I shall scarcely be able to effect this at present. One man pleaded very earnestly with me, and spoke with great feeling of his own condition, cut off as he is from the means of grace, and utterly unable to comprehend the Dutch Service. There are some Rhenish Missionaries here, who seem to be respectable men ; though they do not appear to be doing any great good. After our meeting I called on Mr. Sutherland, the Dutch ^Minister ; he has usually only one service on the Sunday, but once a month he holds an Eng- lish service. In the afternoon wrote letters, &c. ■WORCESTER. 93 There were several gentlemen to dinner in the evening. Thursday, Dec. 14. — Had interviews this morning with several persons who wished to see me on re- ligious matters. One English farmer who had come 30 hours, (180 miles,) wished to be confirmed. He had not seen an English Clergyman for many years. I found him well instructed in religion, but on in- quiry discovered he had been living fifteen years with a coloured woman. He was anxious to be married to her, but she had not been baptized ; and upon examination we found her not sufliciently instructed. The nearest Dutch Church to him is 24 hours dis- tant (150 miles). What can we hope for or expect in such a state of things ! He is during the next four months to instruct her whom he calls his wife, more perfectly in the Christian faith, and afterwards to bring her to Capetown for more full instruction, and for baptism : after which I have promised they shall be married and confirmed. At ten o'clock con- firmed five candidates, whom G. had prepared yes- terday. There was a tolerably full Church. After service some members of our Church spoke to me, with tears in their eyes, about the comfort they had had in once more hearing their own Ministers, and their own Liturgy ; and earnestly entreated me to send a Clergyman to them. I promised to do what I could towards providing them with a Service once a month. We left Worcester at two o'clock, much gratified with our visit at the house of Mr. Truter. Our route to the Convict Station lay through a fine 94 Mitchell's pass, tulbagii. and fertile valley, where the farms are closer to each other than in any other part of the country that I have seen. We arrived at Musteed's Hocks about eight o'clock, Mr. Bain, the intelligent superinten- dent of the convicts and engineer of the roads, hav- ing ridden out with some other gentlemen to meet us. Had it not been for their courtesy, we should have had some difficulty in finding our way in the dark, through several very difficult fords of the Breede River. ^Ye slept the night at Mr. Bain's. Friday, Dec. 15. — At six o'clock this morning we started on horseback to ride up the new road, now called Mitchell's Pass ; and to inspect the Con- vict Station. The establishment appears to be admirably conducted, and the discipline is excellent. I had the greater number of the convicts (of whom there are 250) assembled in the Chapel, and addressed them, their teacher interpreting for me. I had after- wards an interesting conversation with some Eng- lish convicts. The Pass is a very beautiful one, the road excellent, and well engineered. I love to see these great works going on in the Colony, opening out, as they do, vast tracts of land, and developing the resources of the country. After breakfast we proceeded to Tulbagh, (three hours.) This is a small but pretty village, with very few English. We had tiffin with Mr. Shand, the Dutch Minister. There is in this place the only congregation I know of that has avowedly separated from the Dutch Ciuirch. At three o'clock we started again, and arrived at eight o'clock at Maland's Farm. AVe had WELLINGTON. THE PAARL. 95 by the way a very pleasant bathe in the Waterfjill River. Saturday, Dec. 16. — Outspanned for breakfast near Wellington, a new village rising up near Bain's Kloof, and likely to be much increased, in conse- quence of the new road about to be made over the Pass. Having got careless as to our " pat-cop" as we approached home, we fared but badly, and finished our meal by a draught of not the clearest water in the world. "VVe walked over the village — called upon the Dutch Minister, and an English gentleman, and found there were a few members of our Church here, and several more English, who, for want of the ministrations of their own Church, have joined the Dutch. About ten o'clock we proceeded on to the Paarl, which is distant from Wellington about an hour and-a-half. The Paarl is beautifully situated, and has a considerable population. The farms here are much smaller than usual, and the farmers in and around the village are chiefly employed in cultivating the vine. Indeed this is one of the best vine-errowin"- parts of the Colony. The irregularity of the houses here, the fine oak trees, and the beauty and fertility of the gardens make this one of the most interesting villages in the Colony. There is, as usual, a want of water, though we found it of sufficient depth in the river not far distant from the village to enjoy a good swim. The Dutch Minister here is one of the most learned of their body. The London Missionary Society has a station and a chapel, and I believe a respectable congregation of the coloured classes. 96 STELLKNIiOSCII. About one o'clock we proceeded on our route, after having made arrangements with Mr. Inglis, the teacher in tlie Government School, who held a ser- vice every Sunday, respecting the services for Tues- day, when I am to hold my Visitation here. Long before we arrived at Stellenbosch, we caught glimpses of the Table Mountain ; and the eye could trace the range up to the point under which Protea lies. I felt thankful to have even this distant view of home, and regretted that my arrangements compelled me to retrace my steps even for a few days. The Civil Commissioner not being able to receive us at his house, in consequence of his wife's illness, we took up our quarters at the hotel. I had scarce opened my packet of letters before I saw my carriage drive past the door. In an instant I was again, by God's great mercy, permitted to see my dearest wife, from whom I had been separated nearly four montlis. AVe had the Civil Commissioner and several visitors in the evening. Stellenbosch is, like so many other places in this Colony, beautifully situated at the foot of the mountain ; but in no place that I have seen are the streets so completely overshadowed by full grown oak trees. In the summer this is a great luxury. In the winter it probably leads to some degree of damp. Sunday, Dec. 17. — We held Divine service this morning, in the Dutch Church, after their service was concluded. There was a large congregation. We administered the Holy Communion to about six people. In the evening we held service again, STELLENBOSCH. THE PAARL. 97 when there was an equally good congregation. Some- thing must be done for this place. There is no English service of any kind here. Besides the Dutch Church, there are two Rhenish Missionaries with a large coloured congregation, and a Wesleyan Missionary. The population of the place is, I be- lieve, little short of four thousand, Monday, Dec. 18. — At ten o'clock this morning I held a Confirmation in the Dutch Church, when six were confirmed, whom Green had been pre- paring while here. At twelve o'clock, I held a meeting of the English in the Court-house, when a memorial was addressed to Government, praying for a "rant of 100/. a-year towards the stipend of an English Clergyman, and grants of land for Church and parsonage. A subscription was also opened for a stipend for a Clergyman. There was an English Clergyman settled in this place a few years since, who, when he went away, left an English congrega- tion of ninety, who have had no minister since. After returning one or two visits, and seeing my wife off, we started again in our wagon for the Paarl, where we arrived about seven o'clock. Tuesday, Dec. 19. — We held Divine service this morning, in the Government School-room, at ten o'clock: there was a full congregation, chiefly of Dutch. There were six baptisms, and as many candidates for Confirmation, whom Mr. Inglis the teacher (formerly a catechist of the Colonial Church Society) had prepared. I both preached and ad- dressed the candidates, who all seemed to feel H 98 MALMESBURY. deeply. Mr. Inglis, after service, applied to me to ordain him, offering to officiate as Minister at the Paarl without a stipend. At one o'clock, we again started en rmite for Malmesbury, where we arrived at about half-past seven in the evening. The Civil Commissioner being unable to receive us himself into his house, committed us to the hospitality of a Dutch lady, who received us very courteously. There is not much in the external appearance of Malmesbury to interest one. The situation is bleak and dreary. There are a few trees, and a deficiency of water which prevents the inhabitants from culti- vating gardens to any extent. There is, however, a sulphureous warm spring, and a miserable public bath. The bath is, I believe, beneficial in rheumatic cases, but does not seem to be much used. There is a Dutch Church here, but no INIissionary station. The Moravian Institution, however, at Green Kloof, is only a few hours distant. There are not many English here ; but I find there are a good many about Saldanha and St. Helena Bays, who do not bear the most respectable character. We spent one evening in preparing some very interesting candi- dates for Baptism and Confirmation, and in con- versing with several gentlemen who had been invited to meet us. Wednesday, Dec. 20. — Walked about the village before breakfast. At nine o'clock went to the Govern- ment vSchool, where a public examination was going on. The children answered very satisfactorily the questions put to them on religious subjects. At ten d'tjrban. protea. 99 o'clock we held Divine Service in the Dutch Church, and baptized three adults, who had been prepared by- Mr. Inglis, and an infant. I confirmed one of the party whom I baptized. At about two o'clock we started again, and drove over a sandy road through a country well cultivated, and bearing large crops of wheat and oats, to the farm of Mr. Procter, an English gentleman. He, like every one else, com- plains sadly of the want of labourers ; he says that he is offering three shillings a day, together with two pounds of meat, two pounds of bread, and two bottles of wine during harvest time, and cannot get labour- ers. He says he could employ 100 additional handS; if he could procure them. One man, whom he brought out a few years since as labourer without a shilling, has now realized 500Z. Another, who came out eleven years since, has now a well-stocked farm of 3,000 acres ; but he too complains sadly of the want of labourers, and the difficulty of obtaining education for his children. Thursday, Dec. 21. — Drove three hours to D'Urban, to breakfast. This is a small and uninte- resting village, built upon a sandy soil, and without trees. It has nothing attractive about it. There is a Dutch Church, and also a resident Clergyman, whom we called upon. At half-past eleven we started again for Protea, at which place we arrived at a quarter past three. My dearest wife rode out to meet us. I was right glad to see Capetown and Table Mountain once more, as we approached our home. 100 CONCLUSION. And now let me record my deep gratitude to Almighty God for having brought me safely back to my home and family, after a journey of nearly 3,000 miles, througli a strange land, and an absence of four months. I cannot be too thankful for the many mercies which have attended me throughout. I left home enfeebled and worn : I return in strength and health. I have been enabled to keep every engage- ment I have made, and in almost eveiy case to the day. I have never been prevented from officiating on any occasion, either through sickness or accident. I have seen our people, though long and grievously neglected, still clinging to their mother Church, and ready to make great personal exertions and sacrifice to share in her ministrations. I have seen very remarkable effects resulting from the mere celebra- tion of our holy services, especially Confirmation and Holy Communion ; sufficient, were there no other evidence, to prove them to be of God, and apparently showing that God has been pleased to bless the first administration of the Church s Ordi- nances in this desolate and with a double measure of His gracious presence. I have seen with my own eyes the condition of the greater portion of the Diocese, and liave been convinced that our day of grace as a Churcli has not passed away ; but that God has still a great work for us to do in Southern Africa, if we have but the heart and the faith to enter upon it. I have been enabled, I trust, to pave the way for the erection of Churches, and the sup- port of ministers, in almost all our towns and large CONCLUSION, 101 villages. I have been able to confirm, altogether, in this Visitation, nearly 900 candidates, and I return home to meet a little band of faithful and devoted men, whom God has been pleased to raise up for the support of our feeble Church in this land. May God give me grace to be thankful for these things, and to be more earnest and devoted to His cause. May He supply all that is wanting in this land, for the promotion of the glory of His own great name — the extension of the kingdom of His dear Son — and the salvation of men's souls ! 103 VISITATION AT ST. HELENA, IN 1849. St. Helena, April 10th, Easter Tuesday, 1849. Mt Dear , You will be glad, I am sure, to receive my report of the state of Eeligion in this Island, together with some account of my Visitation of it. I left Simons Town on the 22d of February, in H. M. steamer. Geyser, and had a most agreeable voyage, receiving every attention from Captain Brown and the offi- cers of the ship. We had prayers morning and evening, at which the whole of the officers, and such of the men as could be spared, regularly attended. I need scarcely add that we had Divine Service twice every Sunday. A more orderly and attentive congregation I have seldom seen. We arrived here on the morning of the 7th of March. Captain Knipe, A. D. C. to his Excellency Sir Patrick Ross, the Governor, came on board im- mediately upon our anchoring, to convey me to Plantation House, the rain preventing Sir P. Ross from coming to receive me. He had ordered a salute, which however I declined. On th6 Friday after my arrival, His Excellency appointed a Levee 104 ST. HELENA. at the Castle, at wliich about fifty gentlemen of the island, civil and military, were present and intro- duced. From that time to the present I have been busily employed every day in visiting the parish- ioners — assisting the clergy in preparing candidates for confirmation — in confirming, in consecrating the church and various churchyards, examination of schools, in preaching, and in business arising out of the Visitation — such as the repeal of local ordinances which interfered with the Bishop's oflSce, in the con- veyance of the churches and burial grounds, (all of which were still in the hands of Government,) to the See — in remodelling, and placing upon a sounder and more extended footing the Church Society, — and I trust also another very important ecclesiastical asso- ciation, called the Benevolent Society. The island itself is in many respects very inter- esting. Plantation House reminds me much of many of our more favoured English country resi- dences. The house is beautifully situated amidst woods, about three , miles from the town, with a fine green valley in front sloping towards the sea, above which, however, it lies full 2,000 feet. The ride to Sandy Bay is striking, but the view of the Bay itself singularly beautiful and remarkable. I shall not attempt a description of it, but it is unique. I have of course visited Longwood and Napoleon's grave, but I shall not weary you with an account of them, as there is nothing striking about either. "We use the billiard room in the new house, built for him, as a chapel, and there is an excellent congregation there. ST. HELENA. 105 The situation of James's Town is picturesque, jamnaed up in a narrow valley, between huge barren moun- tains, which seem as if they would overwhelm it. The church, though not by any means perfect in point of architecture, is nevertheless a pleasing building, wit-h a neat, well-proportioned tower and spire, and is in excellent order. It faces the sea, and is the most striking object as you approach the an- chorage. The country church is an inferior building, and not in good repair ; but the inhabitants have just determined upon erecting a new building, for which Mr. Ferry has been kind enough to furnish plans. The cost is to be 2,500^., and the site is one of the most lovely I have seen, commanding a most glorious view of the mighty ocean, with a foreground of wood and broken mountain scenery, which here and there intersect the sea views, and cause a most pleasing variety. There are four clergymen now belonging to the island : — Mr. Kempthorne, the senior Colonial Chap- lain, whom I have appointed Commissary, Rural Dean, and Surrogate ; Mr. Helps, Military Chaplain ; and Mr. Bousfield, whom I sent out as Assistant Chap- lain. Mr. Helps is absent on leave in England. Mr. K. and Mr. B. are both excellent and devoted men, and labouring assiduously in their sacred call- ing. The fourth is Mr. Frey, whom I had much satisfaction in ordaining, during my visitation, to the holy office of Deacon, being strongly recommended to me by the clergy and several of the laity. He was formerly a German Missionary in India, which 106 ST. HELENA. country he left several years ago in impaired health. He is now master of the country Government school. He will strictly confine himself to the duties which properly belong to the Diaconate, continuing in his office of teacher, and devoting his days, after two o'clock, to visiting the poor, many of whom, espe- cially of those who were slaves, are very ignorant, and have been recently led into schism by a person who came to this island a short time since, and began by exhorting people to go to church, but, as soon as he had ingratiated himself with some simple people, avowed himself a strenuous advocate of the Ana- baptist heresy. The island still greatly needs an- other clergyman, who should devote much of his time to visiting the poor from house to house. The rugged and mountainous nature of the country, coupled with the very great heat of the climate, render it impossible for a clergyman to do as much parochial work here as in England. Could I but see my way clearly to the appointment of another clergyman, I should leave this ioland with great com- fort, leeling assured that, notwithstanding division has, for the first time during a period of loO years, been introduced into the community, God's good work would prosper under the faithful ministry of his servants. Indeed good has already been brought out of evil ; for many of those who until now have rested in the faith which they have received without inquiiy, have been led to examine into tlie founda- tion upon which it rests, and to hold, with a firmer grasp and a clearer conviction, truths which until now ST. HELENA, 107 they Iiad held only implicitly. Both the clergy and myself also have felt constrained to speak more plainly upon Church subjects and principles than we other- wise might have done, and the result has been that no inconsiderable number have become more devoted, loving, obedient children of their mother Church than they otherwise might have been. I should add that, in addition to the country church, small chapels, capable of holding from one hundred to two hundred souls, are greatly needed at Sandy Bay, Longwood, and the upper part of James's Town, at each of which places there are ex- cellent congregations. The people of this island are far too poor to undertake these works at present, having the country church to build. Unless, there- fore, they are greatly aided by the mother Church, they must, I fear, remain without these blessings for many years to come. The state of education in the island is not all that could be wished, chiefly through the incompetency of several of the teachers. There are eight schools. Government and the Benevolent Society both con- tribute liberally to this good work. I should be very thankful if I could invite one or two teachers from our Training Colleges, but at present I fear very little can be done. You are aware that this is a great depot for Afri- cans captured from slavers. About 3,000 of these poor creatures are landed on this island every year. Of these nearly one half suffer in health from the hardships they endure from their inhuman tyrants ; 108 ST. HELENA. and about one-fourth are very heavily afflicted, I accompanied his Excellency a few days ago in a visit to their village or establishment in Rupert's Valley. If anything were needed to fill the soul with burning indisnation asrainst that master work of Satan, the Slave-trade, it would be a visit to this institution. There Avere less than 600 poor souls in it at the period of my visit ; of these more than 300 were in hospital ; some afflicted with dreadful ophthalmia ; others with severe rheumatism ; others with dysen- tery ; the number of deaths in the week being twenty-one. I think I have seldom beheld a more deplorable spectacle. I was pained to find that no effort is made to instruct these poor things during the time they are in the island ; and the more so, because the Super- intendent informed me that they show a great apti- tude for instruction, and have a strong desire for it. The lack of employment too for tlieir minds has a bad effect upon their health and spirits ; so that when sickness overtakes them, they sink at once into a settled melancholy ; and some commit suicide, partly from lowness of spirits, partly because, poor souls, they imagine that after death they will return to their much loved home and fatherland. The least thought must convince any one that the healthy exercise of the mind would be of great service to them in every way ; and it is sad to think that our Government should spend 10,000Z. a-year on this Institution, and between 300,000/. and 400,000/. in support of the squadron, and yet not allow the trifling ST. HELENA. 109 sura which would be needful to supply them with a teacher. Mr. Frey, whom I have just ordained, did at one time undertake the work, and with some suc- cess, but Government would not sanction the appro- priation of a stipend. A day or two after I had visited Rupert's Valley, a slave ship was brought in, captured by one of our cruisers. She was a schooner of about 100 tons, and had 560 slaves on board. I went to see them, that I might more fully realize their condition. The cargo was a pai'ticularly healthy one, the number of deaths being only about one a-day. Two were lying dead upon the deck, and one had the day before jumped overboard. Everything was done by the officers and crew in charge to keep the ship clean ; but you can conceive better than I can describe what tlie condition of such a mass of human beings must be in so small a space. The deck was entirely covered with them. They had a worn look, and wasted appearance, and were moved into the boats like bales of goods, apparently without any will of their own. I crept down between decks to the place where they are usually stowed away. It might be between three and four feet high, and the atmo- sphere was most offensive, although not occupied by one-third of the usual number. The condition, however, of a slave-ship has been too often described to make it necessary for me to enlarge upon it. I shall only say, I never beheld a more piteous sight — never looked upon a more affecting scene — never before felt so powerful a call to be a Missionary. I 110 ST. HELENA. did not quit that ship without having resolved more firmly than ever that I would, with the grace and help of God, commence as speedily as possible direct Mission work in Southern Africa, and that I would never cease entreating of the mother Church the needful supply of men and means, tiiat the reproach may be wiped off wliich, alas I still attaches to us, of being almost the only body of Christians in this great Diocese which is not engaged in the work of the conversion of the Heathen. I have only now to add, that I have been during the five weeks that I have been here the guest of the Governor, who has been to me most kind and hos- pitable, and who, with his excellent family, takes a deep interest in the spiritual as well as the moral and social condition of the island under his government. I have held two Confirmations ; at the first of which upwards of 100 communicants presented themselves, and at the latter we had between 300 and 400, alto- gether nearly 500, — that is, about a tenth of the whole population of the island. I have also consecrated the Church at James's Town, together with the five burial-grounds in the island ; held a Visitation, with a special view to the reformation of some points in which the Church was defective, and the restoration of Church discipline ; and summoned a public meet- ing of the inhabitants, with a view to interest them more generally in tlie work of the Church through means of the Church Society. The meeting, at which his Excellency the Governor presided, was well attended, and will, I trust, lead to a larger ST. HELENA. Ill measure of support towards the several objects which the Society embraces ; — the maintenance of the Ministry— the erection of Churches — Missions, and a fund for Bibles, Prayer-books, and other religious works approved by the Bishop, and the foundation of a scholarship or scholarships, in connexion with our Collegiate School at the Cape. Believe me, ever. Dear , Yours very faithfully, R. Capetown. From a Letter dated at Sea, April 23, 1849. I HAD an affecting parting from many at St. Helena. The circumstances of the island, together with its being a first Visitation, compelled me to speak upon subjects I would gladly have been silent on: I mean, the nature and constitution of the Church — the office and authority of a Bishop in the Church of God — the succession of the Ministry — schism, &c. I do not mean that these were exclusive subjects, (God forbid.) but I was compelled to speak out on these points more plainly than I had ever done before, and I really believe much to the furtherance of Christ's cause. The people there are certainly prepared to take a deep interest in religious matters, and some good has, I trust, been done. Tliey fol- lowed me in crowds, and expressed much affection. I was to have embarked on Sunday night after Church, instead of returning to Plantation House in the country, but several of the laity expressed a 112 ST. HELENA. hope that I would not leave them in the dark, but let them accompany me to the shore; so I waited till Monday morning, and then had a large attendance of authorities, &c. I shall never forget the kind- ness of the Governor and his excellent family : they received me as a brother. The Clergy also accompanied the Bishop on board the Geyi>er, and presented him with the following address : — '' My Lord, — We, the Clergy of St. Helena, beg permission, at your Lordship's departure, to offer our farewell tribute of most sincere veneration and attachment. More than six years have now elapsed since the necessity of Episcopal superintendence over the Church in this Colony was officially repre- sented by a memorial transmitted through Her Majesty's Government. That necessity has now been supplied in the person of your Lordship ; and while reviewing the firmness and delicacy with which the high and sacred functions of a Bishop have been introduced amongst a peo^ile to whom they were before unknown, we cannot but most heartily record our gratitude to the great Head of the Church, for directing the choice of our rulers to one endowed with such (qualities of mind and heart — qualities which lend a peculiar grace to every act of authority, and render obedience on our part only a privilege. Our gratitude for the many marks of your Lord- ST. HELENA. 113 ship's personal kindness and regard will be best evinced by following up with our flock that vigour and earnestness in the service of our common Lord which has been so singularly exemplified throughout the whole period of your Lordship's Visitation. We heartily pray that the Almighty Giver of all good things may grant to your Lordship length of days and every good gift for the continued exercise of your high office ; and with all affectionate reverence we would say, Father, farewell i" R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET IIILL. I ©i^urct in t^e ©olonits. No, XXVII. 1 t DIOCESE OF CAPETOWN.— PART 11. A JOURNAL BISHOP'S VISITATION TOUE THROUGH THE CAPE COLONr, IN 1850. WITH A MAP. LONDON : PRINTED POa THE SOCIETT FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL; AND SOLD BV THE SOCIETT FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE, GREAT QUEEN STBEET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS J 4, ROYAL exchange; & 16, HANOVER STREET, HANOVER SQUARE ; RIVINGTONS, BELL, HATCHARDS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1851. lOSDON : B. CLAY. PBINTER, DREAD STREET HILL. ADVERTISEMENT. The Journal will be found to possess more than usual interest for the general reader, as containing geographical information not to be met with else- where. In the course of this extensive Visitation, which occupied the Bishop from Easter to Christ- mas, his Lordship travelled on foot, or in his wagon, through large tracts in which no vehicle had been seen before, and of which no description has been published. Many places in the accom- panying Map (for which the Society is again, as on former occasions, indebted to Mr. J. Arrowsmith) were necessarily laid down solely on the authority of the Bishop's Journal. As an ecclesiastical document it is invaluable, containing an enduring record of self-denial and exertions on the part of Clergy and Laity, to an extent which has not been surpassed in the infancy of any of our colonial Churches. JOUliNAL DURING VISITATION, 1850. On Easter Monday, April 1st, 1850, I commenced my Fourth Visitation, intending, if God permit, to pass through the Kari'oo to Colesberg, visiting the several towns and villages in my way ; then to cross the Orange River, and travel through the country called the Sove- reignty, inhabited by the native tribes, and the rebel Eoers, who are again in a state of commotion, to Natal. In this Dependency I hope to remain some weeks, and return to the Colony through Faku's territory and British Kaffraria. I then purpose visiting the whole of the Eastern Province, and returning home by the sea- coast. This visitation, if it please God to spare me to com- plete it, will probably occupy nearly nine months ; but I trust I may be enabled to reach Capetown before Christmas. It would be presumptuous to reckon on .1 safe return after so long a journey, and I do not. I feel, however, that I am in the hands of a gracious Father. Let Him do with His servant as seemeth good unto Him. Only let this visitation tend to the further- ance of His glory, and the advancement of His king- dom ; I shall then be perfectly satisfied, whatever befals myself. I started on horseback with . The Rev. H. Douglas and Mr. Davidson accompanied me a little way. The Rev. H. M. White and the Rev. H. Badnall were in the B 2 IJISUOP OF CAPETOWN S cart. We rode across the flats to SteIlcn1)oscli. We bad service there in the evening, and an excellent congrega- tion. The Rev. F. Carlyon seems happy here, and I trust his work is prospering. Easter Tuesday. — A wet day. It cleared up, however, a little, and we started again on horseback, after a meet- ing with the Civil Commissioner and some members of the municipality, about a site for a Church. We rode through the bcautil'ul IJan-Hoek Pass and Drakenstein to Pnarl, and got thoroughly wet. In our way we passed by a new missionary institution of a Mr. Stegman, of which the people in the neighbourhood did not speak well. At Paarl we held service again in the evening. I preached, and administered the Lord's Supper. The evening was very wet, and we had but a small congre- gation. The Rev, J. Inglis, whom I ordained Deacon a short time since, is, I trust, doing good. The English population is small, but Mr. Inglis is already talking abovit a Church. At present he officiates in the Govern- ment School-room. April '3d. — Rode, after breakfast, through Wellington to Mr. Bain's, who has the charge of the new road which is being made through the mountain pass, called, after him, liain's Kloof, — and of the convict gang who are employed in the woi-k. He is a highly intelligent man, and takes a great interest in Geology. He has a considerable collection of fossils, &c. from difi'erent parts of the Colony. April '{III. — Rode up the pass, the scenery of uhich is beautiful, and the views very extensive. The road, which is nearly completed on one side, promises to be an e.\- cellent one. In one part of it there is a tunnel of about .'336 yards, the first that has been made in South Africa. The whole of the work is done by convicts, of whom there arc about 250. The Colony is indebted to Mr. Montagu for the admirable system adopted for the management of the convicts, and for the great public VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 3 works ivliich they have ah-eady executed. There being no navigable rivers in the country, it is dependent altogether upon the formation of good roads for the opening out of its resources. Mr. Montagu has already succeeded in carrying roads over some of the most diffi- cult and important passes. The present road, Avhich is nearly opposite to the Mitchel's Pass, opened last year, will, I believe, shorten the route to the interior by at least fifty miles. At the top of the pass I parted with , who, with Mr. Bain and his family, had accompanied us so far. Mr. White and I rode on to Tulbagh, w here we arrived at seven o'clock, after a ride of nine hours. We took up our quarters at Mr. Shand's, the minister of the Dutch Church, who had kindly invited us to stay with him. We arranged that Mr. White should, upon his return, hold service on Monday next for the few English in the place. April 5th. — Left Tulbagh at nine o'clock this morning ; reached Worcester after dark. Mr. Le Sueur, the Civil Commissioner, has been good enough to invite me to remain with him during my visit to this place. My time here has been spent in seeing the people, writing letters, and holding Divine Service. Our congregations have been very good, and many express their earnest desire to have an English Clergyman settled in Worces- ter. This I could not promise them, as my funds are entirely exhausted ; but I assured them of my earnest desire to do so, if only I could obtain sufficient means- for his support. Since I w"as last here the inhabitants have themselves raised a subscription of 30/. a-year for this purpose. May God speedily enable me to provide for their wants ! We had eight communicants ; and. I confirmed a young man— a convert from the Church of Rome — whom I was not able to confirm at my late visit Monday, April 8tk. — We left Mr. Le Sueur's hospitable mansion at dawn of day this morning. I now travel 4 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S with six horses, having been obliged to purchase tuo more. At Mitchel's Pass Mr. Piers, magistrate of Tui- bagh, met me to show me the site of the proposed new village of Ceres, and to fix upon sites for church, &:c. At the foot of the pass Mr. White left me, and returned to Tulbagh with Dr. French, who had kindly come out in his cart for him. He is to hold service at Tulbagh this evening. I arrived somewhat late at Adrian Van Wyk's, a deacon of Mr. Shand's church. I found here an English couple who were very anxious to have their child bap- tized. After talking to them a little, they themselves proposed that I should have prayers. I consequently read and explained a portion of Scripture, and united with them in prayer. The man, who has a party of English labourers under him, employed in road-making, undertook to read some portion of the Morning Prayer and the Lessons every Sunday to the labourers. Tuesday, April 9th. — Before starting this morning, offered prayei's with Mr. Bird, who seemed thankful. Met the labourers on the road. All approved of my proposition about prayers on Sundays, and said they w ould attend. They were all members of the Church. I undertook to get Bibles and Prayer-books sent up to them. They live in tents, and are shortly about to move into the very heart of the Karroo, to make Mr. Mon- tagu's new road across these desolate plains to Beaufort. We spent the night by the Patata river. During the day one of my horses appeared unwell. I gave him a dose of Battley's opium (intended for me in case of tic in my head) mixed with some wine, that Mr. Le Sueur had been kind enough to put up for me. I slept but little, partly from the uncomfortableness of my bed, and partly from anxiety for my poor sick horse, who was tethered at my feet to the cart. IVednesday, IQth. — Outspanned at a miserable farm of an intelligent Dutchman (De Villiers) who speaks English tluentlv. His wife is a sister of one of the Dutch VISITATION JOURNAL, 18.';0. 5 ministers ; and his little boy (the only instance I have met -R-ith) has set his heart upon becoming a " predi- kant." Our poor horse appeared better, so as to en- courage us to proceed ; but before we could arrive at V. ater where Ave could outspan, he became so ill that Ave took him out of the cart. He then appeared evi- dently suffering from inflammation. I gave him more laudanum, but to no purpose : we staid by him till he died. I felt more on the occasion than I could have conceived, for when one has no other companions, a man soon becomes attached to his horses. While mo- ralizing on the carcases of oxen that are strewed along the whole length of the road, I little thought that my poor horse would so soon be added to the number. However, his lot may be better than that of his com- panions, who have some months' hard work before them, and some thousands of miles to travel before they return home. I gave 201. for him only a few days ago. "We saw to-day a poor ox lying helpless by himself, left by his owner to die in the desert, being able to go no farther. It was quite dark before we quitted our horse. As Ludwig could not see the road, I had to run before the cart for a mile or two, and point it out and warn him of stones, rocks, and gullies. We arrived at a wretched hovel at Zoute Kloof, where an uncouth farmer, with his family, suffered us to outspan. I slept in my cart, and would have gladly cooked my own supper, as I have been lately doing, from my own pro- visions ; but I thought it might give offence, so I par- took of a very uncomfortable meal with them. Thursday, Wth. — We see fewer spring-boks than in the Colesberg and Graaf Reinet Karroo, and no gnus or ostriches, though we observed traces of the latter. The country too is more hilly, and the Karroo narro^ver. Hitherto our route has been bounded hv a low range of hills; they can scarcely be called mountains. To-day, hoAvever, we came in sight of the Zwart Mountains. 6 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S Though there has evidently been much rain of late, as is proved by a spring of green grass here and there, the country is very dry, and it requires a sharp eye to find out the almost imperceptible streams or puddles which are denominated rivers. Outspanned at the Ghielbeck River, where we breakfasted, or rather dined off' our stores, and where I was able to wash and shave : out- spanned again at Groote Rivier. We slept at Bluid Rivicr in the bed of a torrent. While settling myself here I remembered Judge Musgrave's warning never to do this. A thunder-storm fifty miles to the north might have the effect of changing the dry bed, covered with di'ift wood, into a foaming torrent, and wash us all away ■vvithovit more than a few minutes' notice. The night appeared very fine, and we could no where else get shel- ter for our horses from the wind, so we outspanned in a soft sandy place. As an instance of the value of land in the Karroo, I may mention that a farmer told me that he rented 5,000 morgen (10,000 acres) of government for II. a-year. Friday, \2th. — A dreary day's journey over barren, stony hills. There having been rain lately, we found water in most of the rivers. We passed the night at the Bitter-water River. On remarking upon the more than usual muddiness of the water, Ludwig observed, " It is just like milk." Saturdini, \?>th. — Still the same barren dreary route, over stony hills. I was happy to get a bathe in a muddy pool in the Gamha River, caused by the late rains, which have evidently preceded us. We arrived at Beau- fort at seven o'clock in the dark. I found Mr. Welby had reached that place about an hour before me. He had been out nearly the whole week, and both he and his horses were knocked up by the ride. Sunday, l-ith. — We held divine service in the govern- ment school-room. The congregation was about seventy both in the mornins and eveninsr. I confirmed five can- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 7 didates, and we had four communicants. The numbers were small, but Mr. Maynard has only been a few weeks here, and these are the first-fruits of his ministry. I am thankful to hear all the parishioners speak very highh' of him. He has made a most favourable impres- sion. God grant His blessing to the work. I grieve to see symptoms of jealousy here, as elsewhere, and that attempts are made to prejudice the minds of some against the Church. This perhaps was only to have been expected, but it is painful. Mr. Welby preached in the morning. I addressed the candidates and preached in the evening. Manclmj, \5th. — Writing before breakfast. Great part of this day was spent in receiving and paying visits. I met also the Church committee, and we settled finally the sites of the church, parsonage, and burial-ground, concerning which there had been some liltle difference of opinion. I was particularly interested in one visit which I paid to an aged widow lady, whom I remem- bered to have conversed with on my former visitation, when she and her brother Avere the only communicants. She is a " widow indeed." Her Bible and her Prayer-book are her chief companions, and she is full of faith, and humilit}', and zeal. When last I was here she besought me more earnestly than any one else to send a clergy- man, telling me she had been thirty-six years in the colony without seeing the face of a minister of her Church. Her earnest prayer has been daily offered xip for a faithful pastor, and GoD has in mercy heard her prayer. She seemed full of gratitude and love, and sor- row that she could not do more for her Lord. It refreshed my spirit greatly to converse with her, and to see how God had, apart from outward means, thus trained and perfected a soul. Her great desire now is to see all her children, Avho, almost from necessity, have joined another communion, return to the bosom of their mother-church before she dies. Some have already 8 BrsHOP OF Capetown's done this/ One I am to confirm (nitli a few others) before I leave; and others are hesitating:, and will, I trust, by God's mercy, be led ere long to seek re-com- munion with the Church which has not until now been a mother to them. We had divine service in the evening. Congregation about seventy, Mr. Maynard preached, 'i'wo or three of the parishioners afterwards came to tea. Tuesday, I6//1. — After breakfast attended a puljlic exa- mination of the government school, Avhich I thought in a satisfactory state. Afterwards called on several of the parishioners. At two o'clock a vestry was held for the election of churchwardens. To this succeeded a meeting to take steps for the immediate erection of a church. A good spirit prevailed, and I trust that ere long it will be commenced. The meeting lasted some time, and I entered upon the subjects of missions, — schools, — and the supportof the ministry, with reference to my pastoral letter. In the evening Ave held divine service again, when I preached. There aa ere three more candidates for confirmation, whom I addressed extem- pore. The day was ended with a party of the parish- ioners to tea. Wednesday, \~th. — Started this morning a little after light. I rode with Mr. Welby, and his servant went in the cart. I leave this place with much comfort, and a good hope that the Church will take root there. Mr. Maynard has already impi'cssed his parishioners very favourably, and he has an active assistant in his wife. Difficulties there doubtless are in his path, and jealousies exist there as in most other places ; but amidst it all, the work is prospering, and, if we prove faithful, it will prosper. Vv'e outspanncd at Rhinoster Kop, and slept at the farm of an Englishman, .Mr. Martine, who received us very kindly. 2'/iursday, ISl/i. — .\ long day's journey through the Karroo. We were eleven hours in the saddle. I find VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 9 that K.afirs and Fingos begin to appear Lere as labour- ing servants at the farms. One farmer to-day had just engaged a Kafir as herd. He had 100 head of oxen, and 200 sheep, and these were to be maintained on the farm in heu of wages. There was a party of seven Kafirs on a neighbouring farm who also had a large stock. In fact, they are a kind of itinerating farmers. We passed the night at Camdeboo, at the foot of a very fine mountain. It was late before we arrived at a farm, which the farmers in this country do not like. They had had their supper. Nothing, however, could be kinder than they were. They soon prepared food for us, and gave up their beds to us. But neither of us slept the whole night, for very sufficient causes. We were off again about half-past four o'clock by starlight, and had a very long day to Graaf Reinet, — not less than twelve hours. Our horses, however, seemed quite fresh. It is wonderful how these animals travel. We cannot have passed over less than sixty miles of very bad road to-day. We outspanned three times. Once only did we get a bundle of forage for each of them. At the other places they picked up what grass they could find. Luckily for them there had been very heavy rains lately. The ride to-day has been a very beautiful one. The forms of the mountains are very striking. We found Mr. and Mrs. Long quite well, but not expecting us till to-mon'ow. They were, however, on the look out for the Archdeacon, who is coming up to meet me with his Kafir and English servants, and a horse carrying a tent. We walked out after tea to look at the new church by moonlight. It is a very correct Early English biiilding, though they have not been able to carry out exactly the plans which I sent them. It nevertheless is exceedingly well-built, and is, I think, at present, the best cluu'ch in the diocese. Saturday, 20ih. — A great portion of the day spent in receiving and paying visits. Long conversation Avith the churchwardens. The archdeacon not making his 10 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S appearance, we walked out in tlie afternoon to look for him. We met liini at some distance, coming on alone, with a hag over his shoulders, a handle under his arm, and his staff in his hand. He had been delayed a day from the loss of his horse, which had either strayed or been stolen in the night. lie therefore deposited his tent in a Kafir hut, sent his English servant home, and walked on -with his Kafir man, who, as usual, had sore feet, and, being knocked up, was lagging behind. We returned in time for evening service, when we had a very good congregation. Mr. Welby preached ; the archdeacon and I sat up till very late in conversation. Sunday, 2\st. — This day I held a confirmation. There were fourteen candidates, amongst them the archdeacon's man Wilhelm, who is the first Kafir who has been thus received into the Church. He was very devout and attentive. May he be the first-fruits of an abundant harvest. There were about thirty communicants. The offerings were for the new church. The archdeacon preached. I addressed the candidates. The school- room was quite full. In the evening it was again crowded, when I preached. I had much conversation to-day uith the archdeacon respecting the foundation of our mission in Kaffraria. I must endeavour, if I can, to take Graaf lleinet again, on my return from Kaffraria, and consecrate the church. Mondaji, 22(1. — We had at least thirty at morning prayers, and a large congregation in the evening, when Mr. Well)y preached. The day was spent chiefly in conversation upon subjects relating to the church, and in returning visits. We dined vith Mr. Heugh, the churchwarden. Within the last few months a Romish priest, accompanied by three nuns, has arrived here These latter have devoted themselves to the work of education, with, at present, but little success. The priest appears an indiscreet man. to say the least. He is a Belgian, and is full of the subject of modern Romish VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 11 miracles, upon wLicli lie enlarges in the society of those ■who have no faith in them. In his sermons he is very vehement in his denunciations of Luther and Calvin. I have been much pleased with my visit to Graaf Reinet. Great interest seems to be taken in the work of the Church. The congregations have been excellent. Here, as everywhere, in spite of government schools, main- tained at great expense, people are looking to us to supply them with education. Having been consulted about bringing out a teacher, I have expressed a readi- ness to provide a deacon-schoolmaster upon the guaran- tee of an income of 100/. a-year. The schoolmaster will be curate to the minister of the parish, and assist him in his duties. In course of time I trust, with the aid of schoolmasters, to be able to supply the outlying districts with at least occasional services. It is almost impossible for farmers, living at a distance of twenty or thirty miles from church, to come in frequently for the Sunday ser- vices. The inability to leave their farms for any length of time without servants upon whom they can depend (for the coloured servants cannot be relied on), together with the expense, prevents many families from attend- ing. One gentleman in this parish is very anxious to erect a small oratory for his own and the neighbouring farms. I shall be glad to see these springing up in different parts of the country, and trust that by combining education with the ministry of the Church, Ave may ere long be able to do more than we can at present for the country districts. Wednesday, 2ith. — My journey to Richmond has oc- cupied two days. The first day's journey lay through the Sneewberg, on the road to Beaufort, which I travelled in my last visitation. The weather has become quite cold, but we are on very high ground. On arriving at the village, I found an empty house prepared for my reception. Many of the Dutch farmers have built small houses for themselves, which they occupy during the 12 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S " nacht-maal" (communion), and occasionally when they come in on a Sunday. They have in foct their town- house and their country-house, just as our forefivthers had in the county towns in England. Upon my arrival, Mr. Hope, the Civil Commissioner, came to call upon lue, and very hospitably entertained me during my stay. I went Avith him to call upon Mr. Beranger, the Dutch minister, -vvho kindly placed his church at my disposal, and gave orders to have it lighted for evening service. I had scarcely time to take a look round the village, and partake of Mr. Hope's dinner before church time. There was a very good congregation. I understood that all the English, and many of the Dutch inhabitants were there. It was the first time that the prayers of the Church of England had ever been offered in the vil- lage — the first time that a minister of that Church had ever set foot in it. Moreover, there is not now, nor has there ever been, T believe, a religious teacher of any English sect in the place. I was pained to find how little acquaintance the English seemed to have Avith the Liturgy. Jvone knelt, — none even stood, — all sat mo- tionless even while singing the 100th Psalm. One or two voices indeed were raised up to repeat the re- sponses, but even they did it irregularly, and not at all during the reading of the Psalms. I must do the poor people the justice to say that they felt and lamented this, and pressed me earnestly to send them some Prayer-books. I preached to them partly extempore, and invited all who desired my counsel and advice to visit me at my lodging in the morning. Several came, —one, brought up an Unitarian, Avhose family had turned Romanists, desired to be confirmed in the Eng- lish Church, and, if needful, to be baptized. He was an educated man, and I promised to send him some books, and to make arrangements for his reception into the Church. Others came to state their conviction that thcv were falling away from God, and their sorrow for VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50, 13 it, — others to express their desire to live nearer to God, and their inability to do so, and to complain of their destitute spiritual condition. One undertook to call the English together, and endeavour to make arrangements for the erection of a Church-school. I told him that I ^vould give 20/. towards it, if a suitable building Avere erected, and made over to the Church. I also promised to endeavour to get a teacher who should hold divine service in the schoolroom ; but told him it was very un- certain whether I should be able to afford to send one, as my means were at present quite exhausted. This is just the place for a steady, earnest deacon-schoolmaster. I must endeavour, if possible, to obtain one. May the Lord provide ! I fear that many of the English, circum- stanced as these poor people are, very rapidly fall away. The absence of a minister of the Church, and of almost every restraint to w hich at home they vvere accustomed, is generally too much for them. The high wages and the cheap wine and brandy lead to much intoxication. One man, who told me he Avas in the receipt of 2/. a-week, actually came to beg of me. I left the place with very painful and melan- choly feelings. At the next circuit court at Graaf Reinet, seven Africanders resident in this village are to be tried for forcibly carrying off from the custody of the magistrate some Kafirs who had offended them, and for othei" deeds of violence. A Kafir in a state of intoxication tumbled, as I understand, against a child. A scuffle ensued between the Africanders and the Kafir and his companions. The Kafirs were taken into custody, and committed to prison for ten days. The Africanders did not think the punishment sufficiently heavy : they therefore seized the prisoners in defiance of the law, carried them away, and beat them. They afterwards Avent in a body, and armed, to the Kafir location, and drove them all away, shooting at several of them as they ran off, but killing none. None of 14 BISHOP OF Capetown's these men have since returned. It seems very doubtful whether a jury can be found which will return, be the evidence ever so clear, a verdict of guilty on such an occasion.^ I left Richmond for Colesberg at one o'clock, having employed my whole morning in conversing with the people who came to see me. We slept at a Mr. Ackerman's, who has a property of 60,000 acres in the Karroo. I could not induce him to accept of any pay- ment either for myself or my horses. One occasionally meets with genuine hospitality of this kind, though in only one other instance has a farmer refused to be paid. On no one occasion, while travelling through the colony, have I ever been refused admittance into the Boer's houses. At most places they expect only to be paid for the forage, and are not imfrequently surprised at receiving payment for board and lodging. I should always, however, if it were not for my horses and man, prefer the open veldt to a fiirm-house. One is more independent, one can sit down to write, (a matter of great importance to me, followed as I am from place to place with large packets of letters.) The necessity of talking to the people without ha\dng anything but a smattering of the language is very wearisome. If my dear friend the archdeacon, while performing his pedestrian visitations, is sometimes shown to the door, and refused a morsel of meat, and told as a favour he may lie in an out-house, it is, I believe, in consequence of their suspicions of him, and not from any desire to be inhospitable. They cannot believe that a predikant would walk. They never knew or heard of such a thing, and take him for an impostor — a discharged soldier — a convict. It is in vain to tell them that our Lord and Master and His holy apostles walked. It may have been so. But they know that predikants don't walk. Our second night was passed near a mud house about three hours from Colesberg. The building not looking (1) The parties were all acquitted. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 15 very tempting, I passed the night in the cart. The country from Richmond to Colesberg is like the rest of the Karroo, dreary, dry, and monotonous. Up till to- day, we have seen very little game. This afternoon, however, we came across immense herds of spi-ing-bok, and several quaggas, and wilde-beestes. The country ■was as Avell stocked as an English gentleman's park. We still continue to ascend, and have been coming up bill ever since leaving Worcester. We arrived in Coles- berg a little after ten o'clock. After getting thoroughly ■washed, and having partaken of some breakfast, I went to look at the church, which is about breast-high. The plan which I gave has been followed more accurately than I could have expected, and the building will be respectable. I could have wished, indeed, that it had been all of stone, instead of brick plastered, but the great expense of working stone, and the scanty means of the small English community, precluded the idea. Soon after my arrival, one of the deacons of the Dutch church came to inform me that some of the elders of that church, farmers in the country, objected to my using the Dutch church for service to-morrow, and to consult me as to what was to be done. It had been offered by the minister and accepted by Dr. Orpen ; some few of the parishioners, however, found fault with their minister for lending it, though the great majority were, I believe, quite willing. Of course, I declined ■using it, and regretted exceedingly that my visit to the place should in any way be a source of discord between the minister and his people. I afterwards called on Mr. Reed to thank him for his kindness, and to say that I would officiate in the court-house. I believe their objections arose partly from the bad spirit which is afloat with regard to the English, in consequence of the anti-convict agitation, partly from the close connexion of many of these farmers with the rebel Boers over the Orange River, whose spirit they have in some measure 16 BISHOP OF CAPETOWX'S imbibed, and partly from their confounding our Church with the Roman communion, in consequence of its episcopacy. The Dutch generally throughout the colony entertain strong feelings of antipathy against the Romanists, and have a great dread of them. They for the most part know nothing of the Romish faith, and are themselves so credulous and ignorant, that they would fall easy victims to that Church's teaching, were it not for their wholesome fear of it. The recent arrival of several Romish priests has added to their alarm. The Romish Bishop is, I understand, to be here next Sunday. We held our service in the court-house, where Dr. Orpen officiates until the church shall be built. The congregation was about seventy in the morning, and quite filled the room ; the communicants were twenty. Eight candidates presented themselves for confirmation. The collections at the offertory were devoted to the new church. In the evening I preached again, on love, — charity, — thinking it a suitable subject under present circumstances. Motiday, 2\)th. — Called on some of the parishioners. Attended a meeting of the Church committee. Had much conversation with Dr. Orpen respecting the work of the ministry in the parish. In the evening again we held divine service, Avhen I preached. The court-house was quite full. 30//*. — Left Colesberg this morning at 8 o'clock for Bloem-fontcin. The first house in the sovereignty belongs to an English farmer, where we out-spanned. Slept at Phihpolis, the capital of Adam Kok's territory. Mr. and Mrs. Van der Scholk (of the London Missionary Society) received me very kindly. In the evening I called upon Captain Adam Kok, who is the chief of a portion of the Griquas. He is a very common-place looking man, — a Christian, and, I believe, a sincere one. He does not appear to have much authority over his VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 17 people. His country forms part of the Sovereignty, but he governs it under British protection. Any Euro- peans, however, that may be living in his territory are under British rule, and he has no authority over thera. At this present time I understand that he and other chiefs are much dissatisfied with the government regula- tions respecting land. Several Dutch Boers hold farms under him upon lease, the payment, I imagine, being nearly nominal. At the expiration of the leases, govern- ment requires the Griquas to pay the tenants for the improvements made upon the iiivms by the erection of buildings, &c., or to lose the land altogether. This they feel ro be oppressive, and assert, with I know not what truth, that nothing was said about such payment in the original agreements. Philipolis is a tolerable- sized village, and has its chapel and school. The Mis- sionary speaks with much interest of his work, and says, that very many of the people are sincere Chris- tians. He has received upwards of 100/. from them this year, as their contribution towards the London Missionary Society. He thinks also that the Griquas are advancing in civilization and industry. Some with whom I conversed on the subject at Colesberg think differently. The country is fertile, with abundance of springs. The farms (if you may call them so) appear very poor and miserable. I did not see a single patch of ground under cultivation, though I am told there is a good deal. Adam Kok has a pension of 300/. a-year from the British Government. There is a rumour here to-day that Moshesh's brother has attacked the Boers. May \st. — Started by daylight. The road from here to Bloem-fontein is as good generally as a road in England, though the hand of man has not been employed upon it. The country throughout consists of large plains bounded by low mountains or rocky koppies. There is abundance of game — the gnu, b!eiS-bok, and spring- C 18 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S bok. There are also a great many of the beautiful cranes of the country, and some fine eagles. We found no forage at any of the places we stopped at, but there is abundance of grass. We staid for a short time at Mr. Wright's farm at Boom-plaats, and I surveyed the field of Sir II. Smith's late battle with the Boers. The rebels were posted behind some strong koppies ; but retreated speedily from one to the other, till their retreat became a rout. I visited the graves of our brave officers and soldiers, who are buried in a walled en- closure in the middle of Mr. Wright's garden. Hearing that they had been buried without any religious service, I read our office for the burial of the dead over their remains. I did so because it was a satisfaction to my- self to do it, and because I thought that it might be some consolation to surviving friends and relatives. I should have remained here for the niglit if I could have obtained forage, but hearing that there was some at the next farm, we pushed on, but did not arrive till after it was dark. Our reception %vas at first not very cordial ; and I mention the circumstance because it illustrates both the bad and the good side of the Dutch Boer's character, and is perhaps indicative of the state of feeling of these enterprising but self-outlawed men to- wards the English government and people. We asked if we might outspan for the night. The farmer replied, " Yes, but that 1 must sleep in my cart, for he had no room." I then asked if he had forage. " No, he had none." "Was there mucli grass?" "No, the locusts had eaten it, and there was scarce any." " Would he sell half a bushel of wheat, for the horses were very hungry, and even a little would prevent them from straying during tlie night?'' "No, he had scarce enough for himself." I went in with him to his house, and sat down and talked. After a little while bis heart began to soften, and when he saw that I was still an.vious about the horses, he ordered his son to fetch VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 19 a sack of oats, and measured out nearly a muid, so that our poor animals had abundance. He made me how- ever pay, as I was quite willing to do, an exorbitant price. Afterwards we went in to supper, and were very friendly, and in the morning he helped us to inspan, and gave us our cup of coffee. I should have mentioned that at first he tried hard to induce us to go on to the next farm, where he said there was forage. This however was impossible. It was so dark that I had been obliged for some time to go before the horses to point out the path, and it was beginning to thunder and lighten around us in every direction. Seeing the night was likely to turn out a bad one, they invited Ludwig to sleep in the house. After a very good night in my cart, we proceeded on our way, and arrived at Bethany about half-past nine. This is a station of the Berlin Missionary Society for the Coranna people, who, I believe, are the same race as the Hottentot. The Missionaries received me not only very kindly, but with evident respect for my office. The Mission at present is only just reco- vering from the effects of the late war. During the disturbances of the Boers, the whole of the people under instruction were dispersed. Many have never returned. The present number of inhabitants in the village is about 500. These consist of several tribes, Corannas, Bechu- anas, Bastards, and Bushmen. The school consists of about 100. There were not more than fifty present to-day. It had been intended to be a holiday, the teacher having gone out with the Government Surveyor, to mark the boundaries of the land belonging to the Mission, upon which the farmers were encroaching (the extent of which they told me was, according to Adam Kok's original grant, an hour's ride in every direction from the Mission premises). The children repeated the Lord's Prayer in Dutch, and sang very prettily. They did not appear to know much, or to show great intel- ligence. But what is to be expected from a mixed race 20 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S SO drawn top:cthcr, after little more than a year's train- ing? The Missionaries of the Eerlin Society are, I be- lieve, all strict Lutherans. They adhere to the Augsburg Confession, and to the Luthcrnn views of the sacra- ments. They complained to me of the very unsound views generally taught by English dissenting missionaries, ■vvith reference to the sacrament of Baptism, "which," they said, "being spoken of generally as only a sign or mark, the coloured people confovmded it with the signs or marks made upon their cattle, and did not esteem it in any higher light than this." They spoke also of the evils already resulting, and likely to do so to a much greater extent, as the coloured people become more educated, from the variety of sects and societies which exist in Southei-n Africa. This is a subject which it is impossible for any thoughtful mind to ponder, without many anxious forebodings. Christianity is, 1 believe, presented to South Africa under twenty distinct forms and associations. What, fifty years hence, will be the result ? We passed the night near a half-ruined farm, where I found an Englishman with liis wife and family. I was happy to have the opportunity of uniting with them, in this spiritual desert, in prayer. They w ere members of the Church of England, and seemed respectable people, lie had lost all his savings, first, by the Kafir war, and then again, a second time, by the Boers, who, upon the Ijrcaking out of the late rebellion, had robbed him, as an Englishman, of everything, even of his Bible and Prayer-book. There are a great many lions and wolves in tills ncighbourliood. One of the latter came prowling about us very early in the morning. We started before daylight, and after outspanning at a very kind and obliging Dutch farmer's, arrived at Bloem-fontein about eleven o'clock. A party of gentlemen rode or drove out to meet me. My morning was spent in receiving ^isit i: s. At three o'clock a deputation from the mili- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 21 tary and civilians waited on me, and presented an address expressive of their satisfaction at my arrival amongst them, and their hope that it might lead to the establishment of a church and clergyman in this village. They placed also in my hands a list of subscriptions towards a church, amounting to 200^. and stated that they expected to raise 300/. We had some interesting conversation. I informed them that hearing of their zeal and exertions while at Colesberg, I had written from that place to my Commissary, requesting him to send out a Clergyman especially for them, fur that T regarded the efl'iirt they were making as a Providential opening, and did not feel at liberty to hold back, while God seemed to be beckoning on. I told them, however, that all my funds were exhausted, and that I had no means of supporting an additional Minister; that I had applied without success to the High Commissioner for a stipend towards a Clergyman, and that therefore if one were to be permanently maintained here, it must be chiefly through their own offerings. I did not press them to enter into any engagements at the present time ; but I m ished the members of the Church at the very outset clearly to understand how I was circum- stanced. After this interview I walked over the village with Major WarJeu, the British resident, who had kindly inviled me to stay at his house during my visit. About five I met the Church Building Committee, and we decided upon sites for Church, Burial-ground, Par- sonage, School, and upon the erection of a church to hold 200, for which I undertook to furnish plans. Major Warden promised to bring the subject under the notice of the High Commissioner, with a view to obtain from him the like assistance which has been grauted towards the erection of the Dutch Church. I own I feel that an equal measure of favour has not hitherto been shown to our Church. There are two Dutch ministers already appointed, each with a salary 22 BISHOP OF Capetown's of 250/. Could more ministers be found, tliey would, I understand, receive similar appointments. In the capital and only villa;jje in the Sovereignty, the popu- lation is nearly exclusively English. 1,400/. has already been paid to Government for erven ; — nine-tenths of this, Major W.arden informs me, are from Englishmen. Out of this sum 500/. has been given to the church and school, the church (Dutch) receiving 3'20/., the school 180/. The whole amount of subscriptions to the Dutch church is 3,000 doHars (225/.) Hitherto ^ve have got nothing for our church, and I have been refused 100/. a-year towards a Clergyman's stipend, although there are 250 of our troops here besides the civilians. At Smithficld, I understand, the whole fund arising from the sale of erven is promised to the Dutch Church ; at Harrismith, one-half; at Winburg, I believe, two-thirds. The great bulk of the population in these villages will probably be English. Bloem-fontein is rapidly rising in importance. A press is coming up, and a newspaper is about to be started. The Romish bishop is soon to visit it, with a view, I understand, to fix a priest there, and the Methodists have decided upon planting a station in the village. Everything is of course in a very rough state. There is nothing remarkable in the situation of tlie village ; it is defended by a rude fort, mounted with four guns. In the evening I met Dr. Frazer and Mr. Murray, the zealous young Dutch minister, at dinner. He was placed here, I believe, when little more than twenty-one years of age, and has had a very difficult post to fill, which he has done with great zeal and dis- cretion. Saturday, May \th. — The greater part of this day has been occupied in preparing candidates for Confirmation, and in other spiritual works. Several of the officers and the Civil Commissioners dined with M.ijor Warden in tlie evening. Sunday, btli. — I began this day's services with a mar- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 23 riage. At ten o'clock ■we had morning prayers and a sermon for the troops in an open shed. Some of the civilians attended, and there was an excellent congre- gation. Immediately after this, I consecrated the mili- tary burial-ground, Avhich has been very neatly walled in, and which already contains forty bodies. At half- past one, we had afternoon service in the school-house. The room was crowded, and the congregation consisted nearly exclusively of English. Three children were baptized after the second lesson ; four candidates were confirmed, whom I addressed at some length ; ten com- municated ; our collection at the offertory was for the new church, and amounted to 151. As I preached again, the service lasted nearly three hours, and we encroached upon the time appointed for the Dutch service. There was not room in the building for many of the Dutch people, but they crowded round the doors and windows throughout the whole time. It happens to be the Sunday appointed for their " aanneming," or confirma- tion, which is without imposition of hands. I counted nearly fifty wagons in the outskirts of the village. Monday 6l/i. — A busy morning. Employed in writing letters on business, &c. I shall probably have no opportunity of writing again for a month. Afterwards called upon the members of the Church residing in the village. Dined with the officers. Tuesday, 7f/i. — Started this morning on horseback for Thaba-Umchu, the kraal, or rather town, of the chief Marokko, accompanied by two Cape Corps orderlies, who are to be my guides through the country in my visits to one or two Missionary stations. Mr. Murray, the Minister of the Dutch church, rode with me part of the way, and several English came out for about a mile on the road to take leave. I had also the honour of a salute from the guns of the fort on my departure, though when I heard of this compliment being about to be paid, I begged to decline it. After a ride of forty-five 24 BISHOP OF Capetown's miles we arrived at Thaba-Umclui, which is a sinjular- lookiiig native town of considerable size. There are, I believe, about 2,000 houses, and the populntion is about 8,000. Each house is surrounded by a low stone wall, making a kind of court. The houses are round, built of clay, and thatched. I went into one which had a sort of inner room, in which in cold Mcather the inmates sleep. The inhabitants are Bechuanas of the Barolong tribe. They are very rich in cattle : some private individuals have, I understand, 1,000 head of cattle, and 100 horses. Indeed the whole country for some miles round seemed covered with cattle. There are not more than 1.50 Christians. The school has about 60 scholars. The chapel is a very poor one ; another is about to be built. This tribe practices circumcision. Polygamy is very common. The men sew, and make carosses; the women do all the hard work, build the houses, cultivate the ground, &c. The chief is not a Christian, but is much under the influence of the Mis- sionary, Mr. Cameron, of the Wesleyan Society, with whom I took up my quarters, and who was very hospi- table. The Heathen are always glad, for political reasons, to have a Missionary residing at their kraal. I went to see the chief Marokko : he was silting with his counsellors over a lire, in their council chamber, which was a mere open court surrounded by a fence. They were discussing the subject of tlie meeting to be held in a day or two, with some other chiefs and the British Resident, lie seemed glad to see me, and shook hands very heartily. Every petty chief who can get together a party of followers is entitled to be of tiie Council. There are a great many of these in this large town. Each of them appears to have from ten to fifteen huts about him. I sat up till late with Mr. Cameron, talking over Missions, the Church, and Wesleyanism, and afterwards passed an excellent night on his sofa. I fear Marokko's people have not yet advaced far in VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 25 rivilizntion. The greater number of tliem still wear nothing hut the carosse. They appear very indolent. How these 8,000 people employ themselves is marvel- lous. Some of them indeed are engaged in tending their flocks. A small proportion cultivate patches of ground in which Kafir corn is sown ; but the great majority seem to have nothing to do, and to do nothing. I understand they purchase a great part of the grain which they consume from other tribes, giving cattle in exchange. There seems an abundance of land capable of growing wheat. I did not see a single garden, except the Missionary's, in the whole place. One native Chris- tian has built a stone house, in imitation of the English. These people, in personal appearance, manner, and bearing, are far inferior to the Kafirs. The country has a very bare appearance, having no trees, and scarce a single bush. It is covered with a close grass, which is well cropped by the numerous herds. Wednesday, 8t/i. — I put down here, while I have a little leisure, — (not often the case,) — during which my horses are browsing midway between Thaba-Umchu and Mac- quatlin, (Molitzani's kraal,) some few circumstances re- lating to this distant country. The Vaal Rjver is now the boundary which separates the Sovereignty from the Boers who refuse to recognise British authority. These men have formed themselves into a Republic, and have their "Raad" (Council): the exact constitution, how- ever, of their government they have not fixed, though they have had many meetings. I understand that they are about 10,000 in number. Their feelings are very bitter against the English Government. Some regard that Government as Antichrist; some the Queen in per- son. They took Dr. Frayer of Bloem-fontein a prisoner not long since, for presuming to cross the Vaal River while hunting, having no permission from them to enter into their territory. It appears quite clear, I think, that they have amongst them at least a modified form 26 BISHOP OF Capetown's of slavery. Several people in 'Blocm-fontein, including, I think, both the Resident and Civil Commissioner, informed me that it ivas not uncommon for them to jiurchase a cliild for a heifer. Yowng Mr. Murray ad- mitted that tliiswas occasionally the case. The greater number of these people are very anxious for a predikant and a church, and they have pledged themselves to a sum of, I believe, 270/. a-year. They are desirous of giving a call to Mr. Murray, who, on his part, would be cpiite willing to go, if he could see a prospect of his place at Bloem-fontein being supplied ; but the Dutch Church seems quite incapable of providing a sufficient body of Ministers for its own increasing wants, although there is no difficulty about stipend. I understand that at this moment there are not less than twelve vacant parishes. To return, however, to the Boers : some few of these refuse to receive Mr. Murray's ministrations, in conse- quence of his connexion with the British (Jovernment. They will not (on religious grounds and scruples) allow him to baptize or marry, although of course great evils are daily arising from their inability to partake of these ordinances, from any other quarter. There is a party also of Boers who think they are on their way to Jeru- salem, and that they are not very far distant from it. They are deceived by the apparent nearness of Kgypt in some of the maps in their old Bibles. There are some symptoms of a growing fanaticism amongst these poor people. The Dutch Boer, wherever he may be, and under whatever circumstances, never casts off his respect for religion. There is nothing sceptical in his mind. Perhaps he lacks the energy and mental activity which generally lead to infidelity where the means of grace are wanting. His religion, however, is tradi- tionary. It exercises no very great influence over him. He is very superstitions, and would offer just a field for the Romanist to exercise his ministry upon, were it not VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 27 for tbe extreme dread, terror, and dislike, with wbicb he regards Popery.' (1) The following extract from a recent paper (The Friend of the Sove- reignty) will help to exhibit the present position of these people: — " We are credibly informed that not only has Potgieter dpslroyed the chiefs mentioned in a former issue, but that he has killed many of the people of those chiefs, taking captive about 300 of their children, who are declared, on authority that we cannot reasonably doubt, to have heen sold as slaves to the Portuguese Government at Delagoa Bay . . . Pretoriiis disap- proved of the conduct of Potgieter, and even threatened the Governor of Delagoa that if such proceedings were repeated, he would chastise him severely by force of arms. This threat the Boers are well able to put in force, the garrison at Delagoa consisting only of about 100 natives, and a few Portuguese officers and soldiers. With regard to the three 18-pounders that they procured from Delagoa Bay, they first offered to purchase them, but the Governor refusing to sell, for fear of annoying the English Government, they then took them by force. When the guns were brought to Pretorius he again otfered to pay the Governor of Delagoa for them, but he replied that all he required of them was the safe return of the guns. They have now three guns at Mooi River, and three at Magaliesberg. Tliey have made a return of all the men capable of bearing arms within the Republic, between tbe ages of sixteen and sixty years, and the total number is 3,600. This includes all parties, the ' travellers to Jerusalem,' the followers of Potgieter, Pretorius, Slanders, and Burman. Previous to the last election of Commandant, General Burman, the Hollander, sent round lists, and had actually got 2,000 persons to sign in his favour; but at the sitting of the Raad, Pretorius' party refused to admit him into the Council, a complete uproar ensued, and, after hearing a long speech from Pretorius, they finally turned him out. After this they were not at all unanimous, but after much noise and confusion, Pretorius at length got the day. " The Boers, in council assembled, al>o came to the determination of drawing up a protest to the American and French consuls, and also to the Governor of the Colony, demanding the surrender to them of the Sovereignty and Natal. This protest was seen by our informant, iiume- rously signed, but by far the greatest portion of the names he was not able to decipher. He also states that they are in correspondence with influential persons in the Colony. They have from 3,000 to -1,000 lbs. of powder in the magazine at Mooi River dorp. He states that the Boers are becoming very poor ; that the best farms are neglected, and that hnnting and talking of politics are their only occupations. He had been in many of their houses, and often found that all the eatables they could produce were a little wilde-beest flesh. " He also states tliat 800 of them are opposed to any law or government whatever, and only a few of the latest trekkers have a friendly feeling towards the English Government, and these dare not express their views." 28 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S Wc rode to-day a distance of about forty nules tlirougli a fine 2;rassy country to Makqiiatlin, the village of the chief Molitzani. There were neither bushes nor trees to be seen tlie whole day; l)iit the hills became higher and more picturesque, as we approached the village. We saw one village of Marokko's people at a distance, and met with a great many cattle. There was scarce any game to be seen. Makquatlin is beautifully situ- ated at the foot of a semicircular mountain. The appearance of it was very pleasing as we approached. The sun was setting full upon it, and everything looked cheerful. The houses indeed of the natives, wlio are of the Basuto tribes and the Bechuana race, are inferior to Marokko's. They are built entirely of reed or grass, like the Kafirs' and Fingoes', but they have a very small court of reed, generally in front. Altogether they do not look nearly so comfortable as Marokko's houses. The village is much sniallcr than Thaba-Umchu, and contains perhaps about 1,200 souls. There appeared, however, a much larger tract of country under cultiva- tion than at that place, which, considering the dispro- portion of the population, is very striking, and speaks much for the industry of these people. Indeed, I am told, that they grow more grain (which is always Indian, or Kafir corn) than is required for their own consump- tion, and that Marokko's people purchase of them. 'I'he chapel here is a neat brick building erected by the natives, who have also just finished a school. The Mission-house has an excellent garden in front of it. Mr. andMrs. Daumas (of the Paris Missionary Society) received me very kindly. The hearing them converse in French with their little family brought hoaie (ibr Europe seems like home) vividly before me. I had much interest- ing conversation with him during the co\irse of the even- in?. His converts are about 100. His school consists of about 100. In their natural state these Heathen beUeve in the existence of gods; they regard their ancestors as VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 29 p:ocls, and sacrifice to tliem occasionally a goat or an ox. They believe in the immortality of the soul. He told me of some facts vvliich induce him to think that some of the tribes believe in the transmigration of soids. In the evening, after tea, I walked out with Mr. Daumas into the village. He took me to see some of the native Christian houses. These are built after the European i'ashion, and there is an effort at neatness. Several of them have nice gardens, walled in, and abounding in fruit-trees, walnut, plum, lemon, and orange, whicli Mr. Daumas has introduced. They are beginning^also to plant trees before their houses. I conversed with some of the Christians. As far as I am able to judge, they appear to be sincere. I went to call upon Molit- zani, but met him vuth one or two companions walking through the village wrapped in his carosse. I told him " I \^ould not pass through his country without calling npon him, for he was one of the powers that be, which we Christians believe are ordained of God." I had some little conversation witli him about Christianity. He has just been suffering greatly from war with the neigh- bouring chief, Sinkoneyalla, who burnt down, a few months since, the village in which he lived, distant about a mile from the present one. The effect of this war has been very unfavourable to the Mission work. It has unsettled the minds even of the best of the people. It has brutalized many, and has stopped all improvement. The Missionary and his wife spoke with great pain of his. One striking thing occurred during the war. Mc- litzani with his warriors was compelled to fly from his village and country. '1 he Missionary remained. Molit- zani and his people sent their wi^ es and children, pro- perty, &c., to the Mission station, fully assured they would be safe there. The chapel and the house were, upon Sinkoneyalla's approach, filled with aged women, and children. Sinkoneyalla respected the sanctuary, lie sent word to the Missionary that he knew he was 30 BlSflOP OF CAPETOWN'S a servant of God, and that he wished for peace and not war. Not a thing or person was tonchcd, although the village about a mile off was burnt to the ground. i On my ride next morning to Merimitzo, at which place Major Warden had appointed to meet the Chiefs Marokko, Molitzani, and Sinkoneyalla, to settle disputes arising out of the war, I passed through a country which a few months ago was full of life, but is now a desert. We passed, I think, not less than half-a-dozen deserted kraals, and did not see a single living being, or a single head of cattle, or, indeed, any game. All was desolate. The inhabitants, through fear of Sinkon- eyalla, had forsaken their country, and had not yet dared to return. We witnessed on a small scale the fearful ravages of war. Mr. Daumas pointed out to me one kraal, the head man of which was an aged brother of Molitzani's. When the people under him fled, he chose to remain, because the Corannas under the chief Gert Taibosch had assured him. that, being an old man, he would not be interfered with. Sinkoneyalla, how- ever, murdered hini in cold blood. He showed me another spot near which we passed, where a son of Molitzani's was killed with a few followers. It appears that though Molitzani had every reason to expect an attack from Sinkoneyalla, he made no preparation against it. Consequently, w hen news was brought that the enemy was approaching, all were in bed. Their (1) Since writing the above, nearly eight months ago, Molitzani, having attacked a neighbouring Mission station, was called to account for it hjr the British Resident. As he refused to give satisfaction and to pay the line imposed, a body of troops from Bloem-fontein was marched against him, and Marokko invited to join tlieni in chastising him. He was attacked and defeated, and a large number of cattle taken from him, a portion of which were given to Marokko. Soon after Marokko's return home he was attacked by Moshesh, the most powerful chitf in the Sove- reignty, and 4,00J head of cattle were taken from him We have insisted on Moshesh restoring these and giving satisfaction. Up to this time he has not done so: and. at this stage of affairs, war has broken out with the Kafirs. Any attempt now to punish Moshesh would add greatly to the dangers to which the Colony is exposed. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 31 horses had to be caught, and their arms prepared. Mo- litzani's son put himself at the head of about eighteen followers, and, against the entreaties of his father, went out to meet 800 horsemen. Not one of his party, I be- lieve, returned to the village. On this occasion, the Corannas under Gert Taibosch joined with Sinkoneyalla as allies. The war being at an end, they, in their turn, being but a small tribe of about 300 men, have fled out of the country, fearing the revenge of Molitzani. They have trekked beyond the Boers to Jan Bhjem's country, who is also a Coranna chief; but many of his cattle, probably stolen from Molitzani, having died, Major Warden hears he wishes to come back again and resume his territory. The Corannas are said to be a remnant of the old Hottentots, and they say that their forefathers lived near the Cape. Having been long accustomed to the use of fire-arms, which the other tribes in the neigh- bourhood are as yet novices in, they are formidable enemies. When we arrived at Gert Taibosch's village of Merimitzo, I was surprised to find such sliglit remains of a tribe having dwelt there. There were only the ruins of one or two huts. There was a Wesleyan Mission to this tribe. The premises were still standing, though somewhat ruined. All the windows of the dwelling- house, in which a table and a bedstead still remained, were broken. The out-buildings were in a state of dila- pidation. The same room was used here both for school and chapel — a very unfortunate and improper arrange- ment, I think; for surely, if we come to teach the heathen that there is a GoD, and that they must reverence and worship Him, we should be careful to distinguish God's house, and make them feel the sacredness thereof Mr. Daumas spoke to me of this, and of the importance of attending to these things. In the present case, the chapel was the most shabby building on the station, and its broken and defaced pulpit, with the whole scene around, filled me with mehmcholy reflections. We 32 BISHOP OF Capetown's arrived nearly an hour before Major Warden, Shortly after he joined iis, Molitzani, nith a considerable number of followers, came up. He had exchanged his dirty, though picturesque, carosse, in which 1 had seen him the night before, for a white hat, a long drab coat su( h as our farmers wear, and corduroy trow.sers. Many of his followers had imitated him ; others were still in their ordinary dn-sses ; they all looked very common-place. After waiting some time in hopes that Marokko and Sinkoneyalla would appear, I was obliged to take my leave, as I was anxious to join my cart, which was distant about two hours from the place of meeting, mean- ing, if possible, to push on a few miles on my road before night-fall. Major Warden accordingly ordered two of the Cape Corps to accompany me as guides, one of whom said he knew the way, and Molitzani called one of his ]>eople out the crow d, who was said to be acquainted with the country. After receiving full instructions we started, and rode hard for between three and four hours, when we came to a road, and all admitted they knew not which way to go. After directing the man to off saddle, I mounted the highest hill in the neighbourhood to take a view of the country. Nothing was to be seen but one dreary waste. I found, however, on the top of the mountain a very extensive deserted stone kraal or village, whicli had evidently been lixed upon that exposed spot lor purposes of defence. I could not learn to whom it belonged. At present Sinkoneyalla is ihe only chief who avails himself of the natural resources of the coun- try for purposes of deience. lie lives, I understand, upon the top of a mountain to which there is but one approach, liy the time I liad descended, it was getting dark. As our horses were knocked up, I thought ic better to spend the night in the kraal, which would prove some shelter to us. Happily, the soldiers did not ap- prove of my counsel. We started, therefore, on foot, one of the orderlies being so still" that he could not mount VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 33 his horse. He soon, however, gi-ew weary of walking, and, with my help, managed to get into his saddle. I Avalked on alone. At one time, being somewhat in ad- vance of the others, I was tracked by some wild animal, which, however, did not venture to interfere with me. Several more were howling round about. In about an hour and a half's time one of the soldiers descried a light in the distance, and another half-hour brought us to a farm close by Winburg, where the owner received us kindlj% In such a country as this, where you may travel for days without seeing a house or meeting a person, it is a serious matter to lose one's way, especially if un- provided, as I was, with food. I did not, however, feel the least uneasy, knowing that I was in the hands of a gracious Father, who had brought me through greater difficulties than the present. It was while I was ill the act of offering up the Lord's Prayer, under a very strong sense of the presence of God, that the man cried out he saw a light. We got some supper here, and forage jbr our horses, and I passed a very tolerable night in a wagon, standing by the house. My men also found shelter, and well it was they did, for it rained nearly the whole night. A farmer's house in this part of the country seldom has more than one room, and that with- out door or window-frame. In this room the whole fa- mily, and frequently strangers, sleep. This Avould be still more inconvenient and objectionable than it is, were it the custom to undress at night ; but this is not the case. I understand it is thought sufiicieut to do this once a- week. Next morning we started in the rain for Geldenhuis farm, where my cart was, and reached it about eight o'clock, having gone about 25 miles out of our way. After washing and dressing, I started in ray cart, right glad to find myself once more in it. x\fter travelling about two hours, we came precisely to the same spot, where I discovered that we had lost our way, just twenty D 34 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S hours before. This day's journey was through a fine grass country, abounding in game. There were no trees nor bushes, but low mountains of a picturesque appear- ance, chiefly on our right hand. We arived at night at an encampment of Boers, who were trekking over the Vaal River with their flocks and hci'ds, near to which was the wretched hovel of a farmer, who spoke very bitterly against the British Government. They gave us, how- ever, some spring-bok for supper. The night was so cold that I could scarce sleep at all. We were ofi" early again, our poor horses, which have had nothing but the dry grass of the country for the last two days, looking very disconsolate. This evening we were to have ar- rived at Mr. Bester's, a Dutch farmer, who was impli- cated in the late rebellion, but whom the Governor, wishing to conciliate the Boers, appointed magistrate of Harrisraith. We were, however, unable to reach his house, and therefore outspanned in the veldt. Being a cold night, and somewhat fearing lest our horses should be attacked by lions, which abound in this part of the country, we set fire to the grass, both for warmth and to frighten away wild beasts. I had intended to spend the next day, being Sunday, quietly at Mr. Bester's ; but I was compelled to proceed on my journey, there being no water for the horses where we were. Mr. Bester's house lying out of the road, we missed it, and arrived about eleven o'clock at a Hottentot's house, whose name is Old Isaak. Here I determined to spend the Sunday. I found one or two English traders there, as well as several Dutch farmers. After enjoying the luxury of a thorough washing, and having had some breakfast, I collected together the few people that were about the place, and held divine service, preaching to them extempore. I had scarcely finished, and was yet talk- ing to the people, when my dear friend and companion in my former visitation, the Rev. J. Green of Maritzburg, Natal, stood before me. He had ridden six days to meet VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 35 me, accompanied by a son of Mr. Moodie, Secretary to Government at Natal. His intention was to have waited for me at Harrismith ; but he passed it in the dusk on Sa- turday, and, finding himself late last night half-way to this place, came on here. I was delighted to meet him again, and we had, of course, much interesting conversation. Neither of us had much rest that night. There was a party of coloured people who spent most of the night in playing the fiddle and dancing. The dogs — the ducks — the horses — the oxen, kept running about, uttering their various and discordant cries throughout the night. We were off by day-light the next morning. The nature of the country was still the same, but the features of it more striking. As we approached Harrismith, we caught views of some fine-shaped mountains. We out-spanned for the night by the Wilge (or Willow) River, which, like the Elands, had the appearance of a real, though small river, which is not the case with most of the so-called rivers in South Africa, Mr. Green rode on with Mr. Moodie to Harrismith, intending to spend the night there, and recover a horse, which, beingknocked up, he had sent there. Shortly after he had left us, I discovered that either he or I was in the wrong road. Believing that he was in the road to Maritzburg, instead of to Harrismith, I became very uneasy about him, and sent Ludwig out to fire signal guns. Some time after his return from a fruitless effort to recall him, I went out and fired also, and hallooed for some time, but could hear nothing of him. I returned therefore to my cart, feeling assured that he must spend the night, which was dark, cold, and wet, in the veldt. I had scarce, however, made ready my hammock, and wrapped myself up in my carosse, before Ludwig heard the horses' tramp, and in a few minutes I welcomed them back with joy. After giving them some cold ham and biscuits, we endeavoured to sleep, being very weary, and passed a better night than could have been expected, sitting up in the cart. We were three 36 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S above, and two below. Curtains being fixed round the bottom of the cart, and meeting one another, my men have always a dry and warm bed, be the weather what it may. Next morning Green rode to Harrismith to fetch his horse. I commissioned him at the same time to endea- vour, if possible, to fix upon sites for the future church, parsonage, and school, before all the erven are sold. At present there are not more than two or three houses in the village ; bv\t, if the Sovereignty is continued as part of the British possessions, and peace is maintained for a few years, it probably will become an important village or town. The country is more pleasing than that which I have lately passed through ; the mountains are fine, but there is no timber. The soil appears to be good, and I should think it is well watered. The grass grows to a very great height, but it is now either withered or burnt, and the horses appear to dislike it very much. As evening came on, we began the descent of the Drakenberg. It was so very precipitous, that the pole cracked in several places, even though we unloaded the cart, and carried all the luggage ourselves for a distance of upwards of half a mile. Night surprised us during this operation. We therefore outspanned at the bottom of the steepest declivity. I never knew my driver baffled with a difficulty before. As the pole had cracked before we reached the worst part of the road, he said he did not dare to "reim" (lock) the wheel; and that if we went down with it unlocked, all would roll into the precipice below. He said we nnist turn back, we could not attempt the descent. As this, however, was impos- sible, we did attempt it, and arrived safe at the bottom, though through many dangers. I understand a cart has never been down before. The wagons of the country can, if they please, lock all the wheels. We spent the night again very uncomfortably, and with VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 37 little sleep, sitting or reclining as well as we could in the cart. When day dawned and we proceeded in our descent, (which I did on foot, considerably in advance of the cart,) a glorious view presented itself. All the kloofs in the mountains around us and above us were covered Avith wood, to which our eyes of late had been but little accustomed. Before us was a vast range of country of an undulating character, an apparently interminable succession of hill and dale. The grass, which on the other side of the mountain was dry and Avithered, was here, especially in the kloofs, green and verdant, and several sorts of flowers were still in blossom. I know not whether the change of scene affected me at all, but I have seldom enjoyed a two hours' walk more. During the whole of tlie time I was enabled to maintain almost uninterrupted communion Avith God. The cart had scarcely overtaken me, before we reached a deep ravine, near to the first house Avhich we have seen for nearly four days. In descending this, the pole snapped in sunder, and at one time I thought my driver Avould have been killed, and the cart dashed to pieces. Happily, however, the horses, perhaps through fatigue, behaved very well, and the cart reached the bed of the river with little additional damage. A kind farmer in the neigh- bourhood brought his wagon and Kafirs, with wood and forage, and we were enabled to splice our pole, and proceed on our journey after two or three hours' delay. We again slept in the veldt. On the following day we passed through a pleasing country without further serious accident, though the front board of the cart gave way altogether, — our swingle broke, — the iron ring which fastened the harness of the four front horses to the pole snapped in two, and we had several similar trifling misfortunes. The soil of the country seems very fertile. Much of the grass is as high as full-grown wheat in England. A great portion, however, has been 38 BISHOP OF capeto\vn's burnt by the farmers, as is usual in this country during autumn, there not being sufficient stock to consume all that nature supplies. This custom destroys the trees along with the grass, which causes the country to appear somewhat bare, though in several parts the mimosa appears. We passed one fine river, the Tugela, in Avhich I bathed, as I have been enabled to do also for the last three days, — much to my refreshment ; for having so little sleep, and not being able to lie down, I am getting somewhat fatigued. A life like that I am now leading, makes a man feel that he is a wayfarer, — that he is a stranger and a pilgrim upon earth, — that this is not his home or rest. God grant that it may lead me more and more, day by day, to prepare, as I trust it is in some measure doing, to enter into that rest that "^remaineth for the people of God.'' We passed the night by the banks of a little stream. Our horses having strayed to some distance during the night, we were long in finding them, and therefore did not start very earlj\ I had been three hours on foot before the cart overtook me. There are a great many ancient Kafir kraals all along the road, which evidently were raised by the former inhabitants of the country, who have now passed away ; for I understand that there are not more than two petty chiefs of the ancient tribes remaining in the whole dependency. The 100,000 coloured people who now dwell in the country, and have had considerable tracts of land assigned to them, are chiefly refugees from the tyranny of Panda find other chiefs. Two of these came up to us while we were cooking our supper last night in the veldt. Wc did not see them for some time, it being very dark. They were thankful for some food and tea which we gave them, and expressed their gratitude in a superabundance of complimentary epithets at their departure. We breakfasted at the Bushman's Drift, a military post upon a fine river — at least fine for South Africa. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. ' 39 It has been placed there to check the depredations of the Bvishmen who dwell in the Drakenberg mountains, which are their strongholds. These men are the great cattle-stealers of this colony, and the Sovereignty. I am told that if they are followed w^hen stealing cattle, and are closely pressed, they will kill their spoil, in order that at least it may not fall alive into the hands of its owner. The Bushmen appear to be the most lost and degraded of all the tribes of South Africa. They are very bold and daring. Quite lately thirteen of them committed an atrocious murder in the Sovereignty under peculiar circumstances. Some of them were in the employ of a Dutch farmer. He had been in the habit of giving them tobacco. On one occasion when they asked for it, he either had none to give, or would give none. His Bushman servant said he would be revenged. In about a week after the refusal he came by night Avith a party of thirteen of his tribe, and attacked the farmer's house. When he appeared at his door they shot him with their poisoned arrows, and then entered his house, and killed his wife and all his children in cold blood, battering in their skulls with Knob Keries. Troops were sent out to apprehend them when the murder was discovered. They made a determined resist- ance, occupying a kraal for defence. Six were killed before the party would surrender. The remainder were brought to Bloem-fonteiu, tried, condemned, and hanged. The officers at the Post did me the favour to call upon me where I was outspanning, and supplied all our wants. From thence we went over a very hilly country with wretched roads, to the Mooi River, where we had some supper in an Englishman's hut, and pushed on by moonlight a little further, being anxious to make sure of reaching Maritzburg the next night. We outspanned, as usual, in the veldt. This is the ninth night that I have been unable to undress, or go to bed, while I 40 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S have been taking long walks every day. I am surprised that I am not more fatigued than I find myself to be. The next morning we arrived at the Umgeni River to breakfast, after a drive of four hours over a hilly country. Here there is a very beautiful fall. The river rushes over a perpendicular rock into a valley which is about three hundred feet below. The valley itself is wooded and picturesque. I do not know that I have seen a finer fall in any part of the world. Before we left this spot, a party rode up from Maritzburg. Having under- stood from them that His Honour the Governor, Avho had kindly invited me before I left Capetown to pay him a visit, was expecting nie at his house, I resolved to drive there at once. We arrived at Maritzburg about four o'clock. The first view I caught of it was from the top of the moun- tain at whose feet it lay. The descent to it is long and steep. We were rejoiced to look again upon human beings and dwelling-houses, after having travelled so many days without seeing any signs of life. Maritzburg is not like any of the villages in the old colony. Perhaps it resembles George more than any other place. No one expected our arrival for at least a week to come. They were disposed to think it impossible that I could accomplish the jourjiey in the time proposed. I told them that I make it a point to keep my engagements, if possible. Before I left Capetown I ^rrote to say that " possibly I might be here on Thursday — more likely on Friday — probably not till Saturday." I should have been here on the Friday had I not gone one day out of my road to visit the Mission stations in the Sove- reignty. I bless God that he hath brought me to this distant part of the Diocese in health and safety ; and heartily do I pray that my visitation here may tend to the promotion of His glory, the advancement of His kingdom, and the good of the souls of this people. The Governor received me very kindly, and has, I am VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 41 sorry to say, given up Ws own rooms for my accommo- dation. I calculate that I have travelled 1,400 miles with the same horses, in less than seven weeks. Mr. Green has ridden not less than 400 miles to meet me. Whitsundai/, May \'dth, 1850.— An interesting day. A little more than a year ago there was no Clergyman of the Church of England in this Colony, nor, as far as the members of the Church could see, any prospect of one being appointed. Now there are two; one here and the other at the Bay.i A large emigrant population is, however, flowing in, and there is a vast missionary work lying before the Church, amongst the 100,000 Zoolus that have of late come into the Colony. We shall need, therefore, a considerable increase in the number of our Clergy, if we are in good earnest to undertake the work God has given us to do. Our services were held this morning in the Government school-room, a large and commodious building, the upper end of which is parti- tioned off for divine service. It is fitted up with a decent Communion-table, a very handsome Early English stone font, well executed, and a massive lectern, carved and made of the finest wood in the colony. There was a large congi'egation, filling the whole room. Every thing was done decently and in order, and in accordance with the rubrics. There were twenty-five communicants. I preached both in the morning and evening. When the choir broke forth with the Psalm, " O come, let us sing unto the Lord, let us heartily rejoice in the strength of our salvation," I was for the moment quite overcome. That text, " How shall I sing the Lord's song in a strange land?" rushed into my mind. It was not that I was moved by any desponding or ungrateful feelings, but I could not refrain from tears. The sacredness of the day itself, its peculiar appropriateness for the first (1) A third has since arrived, sent out by the Society for ike Fropaga- iion of the Gospel. 42 BISHOP OF Capetown's service of the first bisliop of the Church of God in this land, — the devout and reverential manner of the congre- gation that had been gathered by the zeal and earnest- ness of my dear friend, — gratitude to Almighty God for Avhat He has already ^vrought for us in this land, — and a very fervent desire that God, " who as at this time did teach the hearts of His faithful people by sending to ■thera the light of His Holy Spirit," might pour out abundantly the gift of His Spirit upon our infant Church, — all these contributed to make me feel very deeply the services of this day. Maij 2bth.— l have been at Maritzburg now a week. My whole time has been fully occupied with receiving and paying visits, — the examination of Mr. Steabler for Ordination, the Confirmation, and the preparation of Sermons. It is a comfort to have the daily prayers of the Church established in this far-distant land. The sacrifice of prayer, and praise, and intercession, is un- interruptedly offered, and will, I trust, prevail with God. The worshippers, indeed, are not many, but there are a few who value the privilege ; and Christ's promised presence is, assuredly, not withheld. On Thursday the Confirmation took place. There were forty-four candidates, amongst whom were several of the military. The congregation was large, and all behaved devoutly. Several Dutch were present, and amongst them their minister. He told me afterwards that his people liked the service, but objected to the coloured people, of whom there were several, being confirmed along with the rest. He reasoned with them on the subject, but it will require some time to eradicate their prejudices. I have had much interesting conversation with the Governor this week. He seems disposed to devote his whole energies to the improvement of the colony. I have seen much also of the other public servants, and especially of Mr. Shepstone, the very able super- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 43 intendent, or chief, of the whole coloured population of the colony. We dined one day with the Secre- tary to Government; another, at the camp, with the officers of the 45th regiment. On the other days the Governor has had one or two of the chief inhabitants to dinner. On Friday, being the Queen's birth-day, the troops fired a royal salute, and paraded before the Governor ; and in the evening His Honour had a party. After the review I went with the Governor to the Colonial Office to receive the ambassadors of Panda, Chief or King of the Zoolus, who had come to congratulate him on his arrival. Mr. Shepstone told us they were the same mes- sengers who had been sent on all occasions during the last two or three years. He said that one of them was a subtle-minded clever man. Theyhad no clothing except a dark kind of blanket, or horse-cloth, and were fine, intelligent-looking men. After they had been seated, they were invited to declare their message. This they did sitting, with much expressive action. " They had been sent to congratulate the Governor on his arrival, and to wish him health and prosperity — to inform him that Panda was not well." (This was supposed to be said to avoid the possibility of an invitation to the Chief to come to the colony. On a former occasion, when invited, he excused himself on the ground that his feet were sore ; he was offered a wagon, but replied that he had once, in the time of the Boers, taken a jour- ney in a wagon, and had been so shaken that he had never recovered from it since.) They added " that Panda admired the British Government for its justice ; — that he liked it much better than that of the Boers ; — that he particularly approved of the arrangement with regard to cattle ;— that he thanked the Government for what had been sent, and hoped that more had been found; that the Amaswagi tribe had been entirely conquered by Panda, and had sent in its submission." 44 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S The Governor informed tliem that he had sent an em- bassy to Panda to announce his arrival, which had crossed Panda's on the road ; and that he thanked them for their message, but would give his reply on a future occasion. The ambassadors are lodged in a kraal out of the town, from which the inhabitants have been removed to accommodate them. They had an ox given them for their maintenance on their arrival two days ago. They w ere asked if they had had it, and liked it. They re- plied, " Yes, and had eaten it up." Another was pro- mised, for which they were duly grateful. The formal business being finished, a friendly conversation sprung up. We asked them about the unhealthy country near Delagoa Bay, upon which their country borders. They spoke of it as marshy, full of bushes and trees ; and said that wild beasts were there as thick as leaves, but that all men and oxen that went near it died. The Governor told them that I was the chief minister of religion iu this part of the world, and said that if Panda wished for a minister of God, and would send him word to that effect, he would communicate with me about it. They Avere asked how they liked the review. They admired it very much. They could not understand how all the soldiers marched with one step. They thought the music showed a great house. It gave them a pain across their stomachs. The only thing they could have dispensed w ith was the firing ; it gave them a pain in the head. Panda's army is enrolled in regiments, and consists chiefly of young unmarried men, kept apart from the rest of the population. The arrangement about cattle, to which they alluded, arises out of the desire of Go- vernment to check the influx of Zoolus into this colony. Such is the tyranny of Panda, that, if no restrictions existed, his whole people would leave him, take refuge in the colony, and place themselves under British pro- tection ; and thus Panda's power, which, under any cir- cumstances, it is supposed, cannot last long, would be VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 45 entirely and immediately broken np. This, however, it is thought, would not be a politic measure to adopt at present, for the colony has already a very large coloured population, — 115,000, to which it is necessary to assign lands which would otherwise be sold ; and Panda's neighbourhood serves as a wholesome restraint upon those who have once felt, and might again, if they mis- conducted themselves, feel his power. His name is a kind of bugbear to them ; not that these poor people, however, are disaffected, or difficult to govern ; on the contrary, they are most docile and manageable. 'Jhey have hardly yet, in any single case, fallen into habits of intoxication. They show a great aptitude for labour, and willingness to work, especially under good super- intendence ; and they have the very greatest respect for law and constituted authorities. Still, however, it is thought advisable to discourage the extensive immi- gration which is setting in, especially from Panda's country; therefore no one is allowed to bring his cattle with him across the frontier. He may come himself if he likes, but he must come empty-handed. If he brings cattle, they are taken from him, and sent to Panda, who consoles himself for the loss of his subjects by the ap- propriation of their property, to which, indeed, he is by the laws of his country (that is, his own laws) entitled. The consequence is, that there is personal safety for those who are oppressed, and w'hose lives are threat- ened ; but there is no encouragement given to disaffec- tion ; and Panda himself cannot fail to be struck with the good faith and generosity of the British Govern- ment. It is singular enough that his former subjects, after changing their allegiance, have no fear whatever of his resentment, on revisiting, which they occasionally do, their former country. Mr. Shepstoce says there are not more than three or four men now in the colony who would be afraid to put themselves in his power. And these are menwhoAvere his former counsellors, and who 46 BISHOP OF CAPETOTVTJ'S are acquainted with all his seci-ets. The right of changing their chiefs, — transferring their allegiance, — seems to be recognised amongst all the South African tribes. I should have inserted here, at greater length, incidental notices of this very interesting people, if I had not obtained a promise from Mr. Shepstone to put down upon paper for me much that he told me. There are many traditions, customs, habits, and man- ners of these people, which he, more than any other man, is competent to give information upon, which are gradually dying out, and which will be altogether lost in a short time, unless he record them. Being the son of a Wesleyan Missionary, having lived with Kafirs from his childhood, and being now regarded by the 115,000 Zoolus in this colony as their Inkosi Inkulu, which brings him into daily contact with their national life, system, laws, and polity, he has had opportunities, greater than perhaps all other men, of acquiring an in- timate knowledge of all that relates to them. Tfiiiity Siindoij, May 2(ilh, 1S50, Maritzburg. — This day I admitted to the Holy Order of Deacons the Rev. W. A. Steabler, who came out more than two years ago in the same ship with myself. During this period he has approved himself as a zealous faithful labourer, having been employed as catechist, both here and on the frontier, with much acceptance. I purpose sending him to commence our work at Bloem-Fontein. I took occasion to preach plainly on the subject of the Ministry of Christ. This I should have thought it desirable to do under any circumstances, at the very first ordination in a new Colony ; but I felt the more constrained to do so, in consequence of a person having, immediately upon my arrival, advertised lectures and sermons, in which he has assailed the Orders of the Church, and her services, especially Confirmation. In the evening I preached again, on VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 47 the subject of tlie Ever Blessed Trinity. The school- room uas quite full on each occasion. On JMonday I was present at another interview with Panda's messengers, when the Governor gave them his oflficial answer. They do not like to receive messages in writing. They carry away, however, the substance of what is said very accurately. Some messengers also from the Chief Faku received an audience on the same occasion. It will, I think, be a happy day for the native popu- lation of South Africa when British rule shall extend, as I think it must ere long, from the eastern frontier of the Cape to Delagoa Bay. Before ten years shall have passed away, this will, I apprehend, be the case. May the Church be prepared to enter heartily upon the important and most promising work which God in his Providence is opening out to her ! On Tuesday I started with the Governor, who oc- cupied a seat in my cart, for D' Urban. Several gen- tlemen accompanied us. It is his intention to see as much as possible of this portion of the Colony during the next fortnight. We are to visit together the American Mission Stations, the Cotton Company's lands, &c. The day was unfortunately wet, and we could not see much of the country, which was hilly, grassy, and bare. The roads became so slippery that we could hardly travel, ind evening came upon us before we reached Botha's, ibout thirty miles, where we were to sleep. One of my iorses fell in the dark just before we ai'rived. Next morning we started after breakfast for D'Urban, distant about twenty miles. We diverged from our road to visit Mr. Bergthiel's settlement at Little Germany. Mr. B. has brought out thirty-six German families, and planted them on a farm which he has purchased. He paid their passage out, fed them till they could support themselves, assigned 200 acres to each family, upon which they have built comfortable houses, supplied 48 BISHOP OF Capetown's them with agricultural implements, and stocked in some degree their land. Besides this, though a Jew himself, he in part supports a JNIissionary from the Berlin Society, and a schoolmaster, and has built both chapel and school. There are said to be 1,200 acres of land on the farm under the plough. The farm is of the usual extent, viz. 6,000 acres. But beside this he has purchased several other farms. The original cost of the farm was 500/. ; but I understand that he calculates that he has in one way or another embarked a capital of nearly 10,000/. upon it. The greater part of this remains in the shape of a debt from the occupiers of the land to the owner, who has charged to their account all that he has expended in their behalf from the time they left Germany to the present hour. The result of this is that each family is indebted to Mr. Bergthiel to a con- siderable amount, varying, I understand, from 150/. to 350/. This of course places very considerable power in the hands of the creditor. All agree, however, that it has not been in the least abused by him. On the con- trary, he has not only been lenient, but liberal. His arrangement, I am informed, is that they shall pay six per cent, interest on the debt till it is paid off, and one- third of the produce of their land by way of rent. Nothing, however, has as yet been paid. As to the system itself, I conceive it is in some respects valuable. The comforts which the people enjoy, the order, neat- ness, and industry which prevail, all are highly impor- tant, if only for example's sake to others. Undoubtedly such an establishment is in many ways beneficial to the Colony. I think also it may be considered as a safe speculation for the proprietor. Be it, that he has altogether laid out 10,000/. ; it is all upon his own land. Every emigrant, though nominally enjoying a lease for five year.^, with a right to a renewal upon the same terms, and a promise of remuneration for improvements, buildings, Sec. should he remove from the settlement, is VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 49. de facto a. raevQ labourer upon the estate, fed, clothed, and supported, but not paid. Consequently, the owner's property is becoming more valuable from day to day, at as cheap a rate to himself as possible. The stipend of the Pastor and schoolmaster, indeed, bring in no direct return. But if the labour of the emigrant's family is worth more than the cost of his keep, every hour that he works is a benefit to the proprietor. Whether the system will work ultimately well for the emigrant, is another matter. I do not think it will. He is entirely in the hands of the proprietor, and, except under the most liberal treatment, will be in debt all his life. I believe Mr. Bergihiel feels that it is utterly hopeless to expect that the debts will be paid off. They give him, however, a very considerable power over his tenants. Were I a poor emigrant, I would infinitely pi-efer fighting my own way in a new Colony. At the end of two or three years any industrious labourer would be better off than Mr. Eergthiel's tenants. He would not have lived so comfortably during those years, but, at the end of them, he would not be in debt, and would probably have realized something. I put down my impressions upon visiting this settle- ment, because it has excited a good deal of attention, and the system adopted is much approved of. My statistics were gathered from conversations with those whom Mr. B. has left in charge of the settlement during his absence in Europe, whither he has gone to bring out more emigrants, whom he purposes to engage upon very liberal terms, and upon a somewhat different system. From all that I have seen I should say that Mr. Bergthiel may be entirely depended upon for the fulfil-, ment of his engagements, which is more than can be said for most speculators. The Governor was received most loyally, and myself also with many marks of respect. Their bell rang at his Honour's approach. The people, headed by their E 50 BISHOP OF CAPET0%VN'3 minister, came out in procession to meet him, with their Psalm-books under their arms. He was welcomed with a salute of small arms as he passed under the first of the triumphal arches which were erected. Flowers were strewed in the path, and at the Superintendent's house, the minister, in the name and presence of the inhabi- tants, addressed his Honour, thanking him for his visit, &c., and afterwards addressed me. We returned our thanks, and said a few words, which were interpreted to the people, who then cheered us. After visiting one very well cultivated allotment, we partook of a cold col- lation at the Superintendent's house, and quitted this interesting and beautifully situated settlement, much pleased with all that we had seen. Our drive to D'Urban was through a beautiful undu- lating countr^^ I should have called it well wooded, but the timber is so very small as scarcely to deserve the name. Much of the country is like an English gen- tleman's park, and brought forciblj- to my mind thoughts of home and days long past in our dear native land. In some of its features, too, it reminded me of the Knysna district, though it is not, I think, equal in beauty to that part of the Colony. We caught from several points distant view s of the sea, and as we approached D'Urban, commanded a full view of the bay. Unfortu- nately, the bar has agge consisting chiefly of English. There is a Wesleyan school for boys, of whom there are about twenty, and girls, of whom there are about six. I sat up till late talking over some subjects of interest which the gentlemen of this institution wished to discuss with me. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 129 Thirsclay, August lid. — After breakfast, rode through .1 fine open country to Church-place, where there is a building used as a Church, and belonging to the Dutch, in which tlie minister from Uitenhage holds service once in six months. Mr. Henchman holds service here, and at Mr, Heugh's in Olifant's Hock, one Sunday in every month, and has a small congregation at each place. The population is, however, chiefly Dutch, and the people are very anxious to have a minister who can officiate in their own language. They asked me to use my influence to obtain them one. At about two o'clock I held service in the Church, and had a very good mixed congregation. After Divine service, I rode on with Colonel Somerset to Mr. Heugh's in Olifant's Hock, distant about twelve miles. This part of the country is very beautiful, abounding in bush and fine yellow-wood timber. It somewhat reminded me of the coast country at Natal. Mr. Heugh's house is prettily situated about a mile from the sea. Friday, 23d. — Started this morning at day-light, on horseback, and arrived at Quagga's flat, forty-five miles distant, before two o'clock. Here I held by appoint- ment a meeting of some of the inhabitants, who are anxious to erect a small chapel; which they hope may be done for 100^. or 150^ the greater part of the labour being given gratuitoush'. It was decided to commence a subscription, and 40/. were raised in the room. I fixed upon a site, and promised plans. It will be very plain and simple, and is to be built of rammed earth. A very good spirit prevailed, and several, having built their own houses, resolved that they would have a Church, even if they had to build it altogether by them- selves. At a little after three I got into my cart, and arrived at Commando Kraal, near the Sunday River, .'ibout seven o'clock. Saturday, 2Ath. — Arrived at Port Elizabeth in the afternoon, and took up my quarters at Mr. M'CIeland's, K 130 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S ■svho refused to allow me to go to a lodging. I found the town somtwhat enlarged since I arrived at it nearly two years ago. The bay too had fourteen ships in it, and I understand it has frequently many more. I fear that our Church work is not advancing with the worldly progress of the chief port of the Eastern Province. There is no parish that I have been more desirous to assist than this, ever since my arrival in the Diocese. There is scarce one for which I have been enabled to do so little. I remain here nearly a fortnight in the hope that I may be able to devise some plan, in con- junction with the parishioners, for the extension of our work. May God bless my endeavours with success. It was only yesterday that Mr. Henchman of Sidbury suggested my sending a clergyman here, and leaving him to be altogether supported by the voluntary offerings of the Church, as I could not undertake the responsibility ef inviting another clergyman out from England to be dependent upon my funds. The proposition is worth considering. I should not despair of finding a clergy- man, were the circumstances known in England. Port Elizaheth, Augtist Z\st. — I have now been in this town a week, having arrived last Saturday. My time has been fully occupied in conversations, &c. with the parishioners, in the general business of the Diocese, and in religious services. On Sunday I directed notice t^o be given that I would sit on Wednesdays and Fridays, during my stay, in the vestry, for the purpose of seeing any persons who might wish to converse with me on matters relating to the Church, or of a spiritual nature; that there would be Divine service on those days ; and that the consecration of the Church and Churchyard would take place on Friday. The services on all these occasions have been exceedingly well attended. During the Meek I have bad a good deal of conversation with the parishioners respecting the state of the Church in this parish. I have said plainly that our work is in a VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 131 more dead state here, and at Uitenhage, tlian in any other part of the Diocese. Many feel this, and are dis- tressed at it. Several of the more earnest members of the Church with whom I have spoken agree with me, that we ought to make an effort to procure the erection of a second Ciiurch at the north end of the town, \^hich is increasing very rapidly. I therefore addressed the following letter to the members of the Church, which has been printed, and circulated by the Churchwardens through the Parish : — " Brethren. — Since my arrival amongst you, several zealous members of our communion have expressed to me their earnest desire to see another Church erected at the north end of the town, with a special view to thp spiritual wants of that portion of the parish, of our poorer brethren, and of the sailors Avho frequent this port ; and one at least has offered to contribute liberally towards its erection. " I have long felt that there existed a need of an additional Church and a second clergyman in Port Elizabeth, and have some months ago stated how far I might be enabled to forward these objects in a pecu- niary point of view. " I am anxious now to repeat publicly to you, that I still have at my disposal a sum of 250/. given by Miss Burdett Coutts, for increased Church accommodation for the poor, and that from the Society for Fromot'mg Christian Knoivtedge, and other quarters, I feel assured that I can obtain 150/. more. This whole amount of 400/. I am willing to guarantee towards the erection of a Church, provided the inhabitants can raise, during the present year, a sum of 500/. from private sources to meet it. I cannot pledge the sum 1 have named after this present year, because the demands upon me from every quarter are so very heavy, that all the funds placed at my disposal will by that time be well nigh 182 BISHOP OF Capetown's exhausted. Should there be no prospect, tlierefore, of a second Church beinsj; erected, I must devote the sum I have mentioned to other more preashig objects. But should .'500/. be raised by Christmas, I would then sug- g;est that a Church, to contain 200, or, if possible, 250 persons, should be erected upon the land offered by Mr. Tee and Mr. Korsten, or such other site as may be deemed more desirable. The Church would of course be so constructed, as to be capable of future enlarge- ment, so that when completed it might hold perhaps 500. The nave might first be erected; aisles, chancel, and tower might be added, as funds were forthcoming. I should be sorry, however, to see anything like a large debt incurred : and a Church to hold 200 would probably not cost less than 1000/. But the thought will naturally occur to us all, — IIow, when the Church is built, is the minister thereof to be supported? I have already pledged myself towards the maintenance of clergy in the Diocese, to an extent beyond what is prudent; and there are still, in several parts of the land, many of our brethren utterly destitute of the means of grace. I must at once, therefore, candidly say, that, whatever I might have been able to do a yctar ago, I have not now the means at my disposal for the support of an additional clergyman, lie must altogether depend for his subsistence upon the free-will offerings of the members of the Church in this parish. I have myself no fear that an earnest minister, who will devote himself to the visitation of the sick and needy, to Sunday Schools, and to labouring among the poorer members of the Church, will ever be suffered to want, by those who have the power to give, and who are not at present called in any way to support their Pastor. With this understanding, then, I am willing to look out for a clergyman, and bring him out, and place him here to minister amongst you. I cannot, of course, undertake to say when one will be found vvillmg to VISITATFON JOURNAL, 1850. 133 leave liome, and all that is dear to him, to labour in this place upon such terms. But I have a good hope that of the very many clergy of the English Church whose sole desire is to spend and be spent for the glory of God, the advancement of Christ's Kingdom on earth, and the salvation of the souls for whom He died, one may be found to offer himself for this work before your Church can be completed. If yon then are pre- pared to cooperate in the attempt now being made to provide additional means of grace for this important and rising town, I will use every endeavour in my power to provide for you a faithful and zealous pastor. Commending this work to your support, and your prayers, I remain, Brethren, Your friend and Pastor, R. Capetown. Before this letter was printed, sixteen gentlemen undertook, at my request, to act as a committee for the collection of funds. On Friday I met them in the vestry of the church, when a Building-Committee was formed, and steps taken to promote the erection of the church. To-day I have met the Committee again to select a site and commence a subscription. A very eligible situation has been fixed upon, the ground being given by two individuals. About 200/. were contributed in the room by the Committee, and the greatest confidence was ex- pressed that the amount required would speedily be raised. In the afternoon I rode out to the Retief Light- house, which is nearly finished. I enjoyed my ride much, for it was the only relaxation that I have had since I have been in this place. The light-house is a very fine piece of mason-work, and has already cost upwards of 7,000/. It is said that if it had been erected a little sooner, several of the most distressing wrecks which have occurred during this present year would in all probability not have taken place. 134 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S On Siindcaj, Sept. 1, I preached twice to very large congregations, and administered the Holy Communion to about sixty persons. Between the Services I attended the Sunday-school at the north end of the town, estab- lished by Mr. Tee, who has erected a wooden building specially for it. I afterwards attended the Sunday- school, which is carried on in the church under the zealous old clerk. The children here still bring their weekly pence ^^for the Bishop's Missions" alas, not yet in operation. The box was opened before me. Alto- gether they have raised about 6/. The offerings in church were about 15^. for the same object to-day. I addressed the children for about half an hour on the subject of Missions. The services of the day were all very encouraging. Sept. 2. — Drove out with some gentlemen to see the Maitland mines. It has long been known that there are in this neighbourhood veins both of lead and copper. Several gentlemen have formed themselves into a com- pany with a view to work them, or at least to ascertain whether they are Avorth working. No great progress has as yet been made. Several shafts have been driven a little way, but no rich veins have hitherto been dis- covered. The ore, however, is said to be very good, and the indications most promising. Sept. 5. — This day I left Port Elizabeth after an inte- resting, and, I trust, profitable visit of twelve daj-s. Several persons have availed themselves of my invitation to meet me in the vestry, and with them I have held some most interesting conversations. I am very anxious that the Clergy, wherever it is practicable, should adopt this plan, which I myself followed in England, of sitting at stated periods in the vestry, for the purpose of seeing those who may wish to seek their spiritual counsel. I am perfectly satisfied that there are some persons in every parish w ho are most anxious to have close con- fidential intercourse with God's ministers, but who VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 133 know not how to approach them. This practice of sitting in the vestry to receive them opens a way for such intercourse, of which I find the people of this Diocese well inclined to avail themselves. Several in the parish have told rae how much they needed advice and instruction, and how thankful they were for it. Our congregations have been excellent during the whole period of my stay; On Sundays the church has been quite full. On Wednesdays and Fridays I think there must have been about 150 present. During the twelve days that I have been here I have preached eight times. Yesterday I held my official Visitation, and examined into the affairs of the Church. I suggested to the Churchwardens and Vestry that an addition of 50/i a-year should be made to the stipend of their Minister, who has been labouring amongst them for many years on a very insufficient income. This was agreed to, although there is still a debt of upwards of 200^. upon the church. The Vestry, however, quite assented to the propriety of having collections every Sunday, and it was arranged that they should have them. The Vestry presented to me the following address : — My Lord, — We the undersigned, the Minister, Church- wardens, and Vestrymen of St. Mary's Church, in Vestry assembled, beg to offer to your Lordship our sincere congratulations on your safe arrival amongst us once more. In the protection which has been afforded your Lordship during your long and arduous travels through the perils of the wilderness, we cannot fail to recognize the watchful care of the Great Head of the Church ; and the success by which your I^ordship's endeavours to advance the glory of God have been hitherto attended, induces us to look forward to a time when, through the length and breadth of the land, the word of the Lord shall have free course and be glorified, through His 136 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S blessing upon the same continued exertions. We are well aware of the many difnculties by which your path was obstnicted, when your Lordship first engaged in the great work of building up the Church in this long- neglected portion of the British dominions; and, al- though your Lordship's labours may be truly said to be only in their beginning, still, the facility with which obstacles have been overcome leads to the belief that the Lord has been with you of a truth, and that He will continue to prosper His work in your hands. During the short stay of your Lordship in this portion of your Diocese, the interest in the welfare, temporal and eternal, of the inhabitants of Port Elizabeth which characterized you in your first Visitation, seems to have suffered no diminution; and the willingness with which your Lordship has come forward to aid in the erection of an additional church for the accommodation of the rapidly increasing population of the town, is the best evidence that can be adduced of your Lordship's untir- ing exertions in this particular. Although the want of some superior education to that imparted in the Government schools has already occu- piedyour Lordship's serious attention,still wedeemit our duty to bring tliis important subject to your notice again, as the difficulties under which the inhabitants labour in this respect are becoming every day more pressing. That your Lordship may be long preserved, and spared to a good old age, to see a prosperous issue put to all your labours, is the heartfelt prayer of your Lordship's obedient and faithful servants. To this I replied in words to the following effect : Gentlemen, — I beg to assure you that I fully appre- ciate the kind expressions towards myself personally, contained in the address which you have just delivered. I do indeed (eel deeply grateful to Almighty God for His merciful care and protection during this long and VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 137 arduoiTS Visitation, and amidst the many anxieties which must needs beset the first Bishop of so important and long neglected a Diocese, in times of much trial and difficulty. You allude to the measure of success with which it has pleased God to bless our endeavours to advance His cause in the world ; and you regard it as the earnest of richer mercies yet in store for us. We cannot be too thankful for God's goodness and long suffering towards our Church, which at length has, I trust, become fully alive to its responsibilities, and is endeavouring to make adequate provision for the spiri- tual wants of its people. Whether we are to expect a continuance of the Divine favour, and richer manifes- tations of God's blessing and presence, will depend in no light degree upon ourselves. Increased zeal, devo- tion, and faithfulness ou our part, will lead to increased blessings on God's. The Mork of the Church in this Diocese is, as you rightly observe, only beginning. It will require the earnest and united eff'ort of every member of our com- munion to bring it to its completion. I hail with satis- faction the exertions which many in this flourishing town and port are making for the erection of a second church. I have already, in my letter addressed to the parishioners, expressed the deep interest which I take in this work. There are few things in the Diocese which I am more anxious to see accomplished ; and none which I shall be more ready to promote to the utmost of my power. With reference to the subject of education, to which you allude, I can only now say that I am fully alive to its importance ; that I regret with yourselves the inadequate provision which exists for those who desire to see their children enjoying a sound, liberal, and religious education ; and that I shall at all times be prepared to cooperate with you in your endeavours to secure for yourselves so inestimable a blessing. I would willingly have offered to bring out a 138 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S clergj'man for this special work, were it not that I am already involved in very serious liabilities which I do not feel justified at the present moment in adding to. My prayers are united \vith yours, that it may please God very abundantly to bless his work in this portion of His vineyard. I quit Port Elizabeth with some degree of comfort, and with more hope than when I entered it. The people are certainly very anxious about their church, and there seems to be but little doubt that the money will be raised. The parishioners are kind-hearted and friendly, and, if it please God to raise up a zealous and judicious man for this post, I feel assured he will be of much service, and be largely blessed in his work. I slept at Taylor's, Commando Kraal, beyond the Sunday River. I have for my companion Mr. Ebden, late member of council, whom I found in Port Elizabeth, and who is anxious to proceed to Graham's Town. I have, there- fore, offered him a seat in my cart. On Friday I arrived at Sidbury. On calling at Mr. Daniel's, Sid- bury Park, I found several gentlemen coming out on horseback to meet me. They returned with us to Sidbury. On Saturday I consecrated the church. On Sunday I confirmed eleven, administered the Holy Com- munion to sixteen parishioners, and preached twice to very respectable congregations. I am very thankful to find that a great change for the better has taken place in this parish since the arrival of Mr. Henchman.' The people now take an interest in their church, and attend Divine Service. Some, who did not like the establish- ment of the weekly ofTcrtory at first, told me yesterday that they had quite changed their minds ; th:it they now see that it is on every ground most desirable, and that they feel assured that the alms of the people will increase. All, they said, would have given more, had they not (1) See Note A., at the end of the Volume. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 139 still been in some difficulties. Tliey liave not yet recovered from the effects of the late Kafir war, in 1 847 ; and the losses which they now sustain by stealing, on the part of their herds, or strangers in the colony, are very great. One fiirmer present told me that he had lost in this way 600 sheep during the last year. Another said that the annual loss in sheep was one tenth of the flock. The drought this year is greater than has been known for many years past, and the locusts have been very destructive. The whole country appears quite burnt up, cattle are dying in considerable numbers, and there is scarce sufficient water for daily use. My horses have been very unwilling to drink it, because what there is, is very bad. The gentlemen of this parish bore very strong testimony to the excellence of the present system in British Kaffraria. So effective is the Kafir police on the frontier, and so certain to trace to their hiduig-place any cattle that may be driven across the line, that all the thieves and vagabonds have ceased to make the attempt. Cattle and sheep are now driven over the Orange River, amongst the Mantatees and Bechuanas. They all cried out for a better system of police in the colony, declaring that farmers would gladly give from 20/. to 30/. a-year towards its establish- ment. But they affirmed that under the present system, their losses would almost be equal in ten years to another Kafir war. Saturdatj, September \-\lh. — I arrived in Graham's Town on Monday last. My time has been chiefly occupied in some very anxious business connected with several parishes, arising chiefly from the difficulty the people find in completing the churches which they have begun. The expense of building in this colony is greater than any o.' us have been willing to believe. Though the designs of the churches have all been very simple, they have in most cases exceeded the means which are at the disposal of the several committees, St. Helena 140 BISHOP OF Capetown's has also furnished me with several topics for careful consideration. On Wednesday evenin be present owing to the great distance they would have to travel, and the impossibility of pro- viding for their duty during their absence. Mr. Steabler, for instance, at Bloemfontain, would have had to travel 400 miles each way. The Clergy agreed to apply to Dr. Bray's Associates for a grant of books, to form a library for the archdeaconry. Steps were taken to place the Bocietrj for Fromotbig Chndiaii Knowledge upon a better footins:, so that the books and tracts of that Society, which has bean so great a benefactor to this Diocese, might be introduced into every parish. I requested the Clergy to state, after full consideration, to the Arch- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 143 deacon what they thought would be the best boundaries for their respective parishes ; and I informed them that, upon their doing so, the Archdeacon would make a general report to me on the subject, and that I would thereupon fix definitively the boundaries of the parish for each Clergyman. Afterwards I brought tinder their notice our contemplated mission-woi'k, both in British Kafi'raria and Natal, and laid fully before them the plan which I proposed to adopt. They expressed their hearty interest in it, and their entire approbation of it. I then sought their counsel as to the desirableness of my returning to England, the more effectually to carry out my plans, both in the selection of men and raising of the funds required. They expressed unanimously their conviction of the expediency, if not the necessity, of my returning home for that purpose ; and, though fully aware of the great inconvenience which all would feel from the prolonged absence of the Bishop of a Diocese so lately formed, and still in so unsettled a state, they assured me they would cheerfully submit to whatever loss or inconvenience might be occasioned, in order that the great work of the conversion of the heathen might be the more eff'ectually promoted. Tuesday, 'i\th. — We resumed our session this day. The subject of Missions was again renewed. One of the Clergy thought that the Mission work should begin with the Church in South Africa itself; or at least, that if it did, we should be better entitled to say to the Chvtrch at home, " Come over and help us." He offered himself for the work, if I thought good to send him, and said that he should feel honoured in being sent forth to the heathen. I believe he but spoke the sentiments of others present. Towards the close of our session, I brought under the notice of the Clergy the Declaration which I had prepared respecting the Convocation. I am thankful to say that they were unanimous in their approbation of it. They felt that the circumstances of the Church at home called for an expression of the 144 BISHOP OF Capetown's mind and judgment of this distant branch of it, and •were most anxious to show this sympathy with the mother Church under her present trials and difTiculties. Both yesterday and to-day we liave had full service, with sermon, in the evening, in addition to the usual Morning Prayer. Wednesdai/, 2r>th. — Married Mr. Fleming, Military Chaplain at King William's Town, this morning, after which I started on horseback, in company with Colonel Somerset, for Fort Hare. Several gentlemen rode out a little way with us. It is now nearly two years since I proceeded precisely in the same way, in the same company, along the same road. Since that period GoD has wrought much for the ad\ancement of His cause and Church in South Africa. May we be found faithful! W'c slept at the neat little inn at the Koonap. I was thankful to have a good night's rest, and a little cessa- tion from exhausting business. I have every reason to be "grateful that God preserves me in health amidst incessant and most anxious toil. I do not think, during the month that 1 have spent at Grahamstown, I have had more than an hour or two of leisure. Indeed, I have been obliged to leave it, with much which ought to have been done left undone, and much more done, I fear, in a slovenly way, though I have worked, I may fairly say, night and day. My dear friend and brother, the .-Archdeacon, seemed almost worn out uhen I left. Thursdaii 26l/>. — Arrived at Alice about two o'clock, after a hot ride of about thirty miles. Spent an hour with Mr. Beaver talking over business, and the state of his parish ; after which, I went up to Fort Hare, Colonel Cooper having kindly invited me to take up my quarters with him during my visit to this place. During these last two days, I have heard a good deal abotit the probability of an outbreak on the part of the Kafirs." It is said that they are suffering so much in consequence (1) See Xote B. at the end of the Volume. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 145 of tbe long-continued drought, that they think they may as well die by the ball as by famine. It is certain that they are in great distress and want. Their melies are all gone, and none are to be had in Alice at less than thirty shillings a muid (the price the Kafir gets for them when he sells them to a trader being four shillings a muid). Milk they have none. The cows do not give any, and are themselves dying of starvation. The ground is too hard to allow of their sowing seed for pumpkins ; and these things form the chief food of the Kafir. He relies upon his melies for five months in the year, milk for four, and pumpkins for three : and all these have failed him. I drove out in the afternoon, after my arrival, with Colonel Cooper, and had brought vividly before my eyes the state of destitution to \ihich these poor people are reduced. The mimosa, which abounds here, has been stripped of its bark to furnish them Avith food, and that, with roots Avhich the Avomen are digging up all over the country, forms the chief support of the population. Can we wonder that they should begin to think of stealing ? It is said that they are well supplied with guns and ammunition through the traders, and there can, I think, be no doubt, from all one hears from various quarters, that they are at present in a state of considerable excitement. This it is thought has in part arisen from the appearance of a man amongst them, claiming to be a prophet, who is exercising great influence over them. We passed by Macomo's kraal : he was standing by his hut, smoking, and stupid from drink. He came up, however, to shake hands. Friday 27th. — I confirmed, this morning, nine candi- dates in the court-house at Alice. The building is but small, and the congregation more than filled it. After- wards I consecrated two military burial grounds, and visited a seminary or training institution belonging to the Free Kirk of Scotland, which is intended for the L 146 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S education of coloured children for teachers, in the same school Tiith the children of European parents. There Avere in the Institution about eighteen of each race. The Europeans pay from 20/. to 25/. each ; the coloured children nothing. The children are together only during school hours. They do not live in the same building, or take their meals in common. The coloured children dine after the white, in the same room and at the same table. I do not see that any good can arise from such a mixed education. The distinction between the races is more marked than if any Avere educated in -nholly separate establishments. None of the children were far advanced. In arithmetic, they did sums in compound multiplication ; they read some of Chambers' books on sreography and astronomy, full of hard words, and answered some simple questions relating to religious truth. It is the fashion in this colony in almost all schools to teach Chambers' books. Little children who can scarce spell are dosed daily with a smattering of science, or rather scientific terms and words, to the neglect of more useful and important things. The whole colony is, however, I believe, well-nigh sick of the system. The Government gives 100/. a-year to this Institution. There has been a shocking murder com- mitted in this neighbourhood, within the last few days, which is illustrative of the little regard in which the life of the natives is held by iTiany Europeans. The son of a neighbouring farmer was out in the veldt, with a servant, an Englishman. They saw a Kafir going along the road, and called upon him to stop. He did so. They asked for his pass. He had none. They told him they would take him prisoner, and proceeded to loose the rein from their horses' neck to bind him. He ran away, but stopped about twenty paces off. The English servant walked up to him and deliberately shot him in the neck. He fell down dead. The farmers, doubtless, have much to «ndure. Thev lose immense numbers of VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 147 sheep, but if sucli deeds as these are perpetrated, vtc may justly expect Kafir wars as God's scourge and chastise- ment. The Kafir had about seven pounds of meat and a chisel. He had no assegai, nor even a knife ; and it is supposed was on a journey. His murderer is in custody. I am told that I passed close bj^ the dead body in my ride yesterday. The military villages which were founded after the late war are in a languishing state.' Kemp is broken up ; Joanna nearly deserted; at Woburn not a dozen remain; Ely is suffering much from "the drought, and its population is much diminished : at Auckland the decrease is not so great; but all are reduced. Soldiers do not generally make good settlers ; but unmarried soldiers are sure to fail in their attempts. So at least it has been in all these villages. On Saturday, after returning several calls, I drove in my cart to Fort Beaufort. The day was intensely hot. Finding Colonel Somerset still here, I have talked over with him the subject of a subscription to purchase food for the Kafirs in their present destitute state. He has entered readily into it, and agreed to write to Colonel Mackinnon on the subject; and if he should think it desirable, to cooperate with the Ai'chdeacon in setting one on foot. I have written to the Archdeacon about it. I took up my quarters with Mr. Wilshere, who is allowed the use of a portion of the fine stone barracks, which are now nearly empty. Sunday 29tk. — We had a very large congregation this morning in the church, which was in the course of erection when I was last here, and is now completed. Ecclesiastically speaking, the building is very incorrect, but it is neatly fitted up inside. Our whole work here is carried on by means of the weekly offertory, which, however, does not produce as much as might have been (1) The male inhabitants of these villages were all murdered at the breaking out of the war — January, 1S51. 148 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S expected. Still, during the two years that a clergyman has been here, much has been effected. The church is finished and paid for, an organ has been purchased for loo/., several churchmen have made special oiferings, e.g., a very handsome communion cloth, a pair of Glastonbury chairs for the altar, books, &c. The pews have no doors, and there are no pew rents. We had seventeen candidates for confirmation, and thirty-five communicants. I both preached and addressed the candidates. The service lasted nearly three hours and a half. In the evening, also, we had an excellent con- gregation ; I preached again. Monday SOth. — This morning' the church was conse- crated. There were present of the clergy, Mr. Beaver, Mr. Willson, and Mr. Wilshere. The congregation was very large. 1 preached on the occasion. Afterwards 1 went with several gentlemen to inspect the new church- yard, which I told them must be fenced-in previous to consecration. In the evening Mr. Wilshere invited the members of the church to tea in the long barrack-room. About seventy were present. An address was presented to me expressive of the satisfaction of the inhabitants at the progress made since the last visitation, &c. To this I replied at some length, and entered into a full ex- planation of the circumstances of the church in the Diocese. 1 took this opportunity of pressing upon the parishioners that it was absolutely necessary that their offerings towards the support of the ministry should be greatly increased. It is essential that it should be thoroughly understood by the whole diocese, that the work cannot be carried on without increased effort upon the part of all. I informed those present of the steps I was taking towards the formation of missions to the Heathen, both in British Kaffraria and Natal ; and en- treated the benefit of their prayers. Tuesday, October Ist. — After returning several calls, (1) See Not ■ C, at the end of the Volume. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 149 I started about twelve o'clock, accompanied by several gentlemen on horseback, for the Mancazana. I have arranged for ray cart to meet me at Shiloh next week. Colonel Sutton having kindly furnished me Avith Cape corps horses, I have decided to ride this week through the Winterberg. We did not arrive at the Mancazana ^ post till late, having stopped at several farm-houses ou the way. The ride was through a very beautiful country, though sadly burnt up at present. Mr. Boon, the catechist at this post, was looking out anxiously for our arrival. To-day's post informed me that four of the members elected by the people to frame a constitution for the colony have resigned. There is no country, that I know of, in the world, with a small population of 200,000, so thoroughly divided as this in language, race, and re- ligion. There are more than twenty different religious bodies: besides Mahomedans, and Heathen. There are four languages spoken, and at least four distinct races residing in the colony. There is a vast amovint of ignorance, and I fear there ever must be, from the scattered nature of the population. In the country districts, a very large proportion of the children of the present generation are growing up without being able to read and write. Altogether our political prospects are not encouraging. Wednesdcnj 2d. — Soon after breakfast this mornino-. several parties came in for the confirmation and services. With these I conversed previous to the hour of church. There were eleven candidates whom I addressed at some length. I also preached to an attentive congre- gation of about sixty, some of whom had come from a great distance. After service I held a meeting of the parishioners at the post. I took the opportunity of consulting them about the services held at the different stations, and brought under their notice the subject of (1) See Note D, at the end of the Volume. 150 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S pecuniary support for a minister. I informed them tliat I could not keep up the Avork here without considerable contril)utions from them : that their ucckly offerings Tiere very small, and wholly inadequate; that I wished to know what they were prepared to do. I spoke to them very plainly, and at considerable length, on all these points. They seemed to feel the necessity of doing more; and pi-oposed that a subscription should be opened, in addition to the weekly offvirtory, which they did not wish to give up. By this means they thought that those who lived at a distance would have an opportunity of contributing. I told them I should not object to a subscription, though I had no confidence in it. One ■was begun in the room, and only 171. put down. I felt constrained to intimate that unless the contributions were very largely increased, I should be obliged, how- ever reluctantly, to withdraw the present catechist from the post ; that the demands upon me from every part of the Diocese were so heavy that I could not give towards this work more than a small annual sum. Tliursday 3d I held service to-day at the old post, a few miles off, and afterwards conversed with the people who had 'assembled. It was somewhat un- willingly that I went to this service, which was held in a private house, and was the first at this station, which Las only just been occupied, in consequence of the commencement of a village in the neighbourhood. I preached extempore, and Avas very glad afterwards tliat I had gone; for a good, earnest, devout spirit prevailed; the people made a collection of their own accord, and entered their names readily in the subscription book. Several expressed themselves very properly, and with much good feeling; and I think tliey are really anxious to maintain a standing ministry amongst them. I told them they might bring as offerings a goat, or a sheep, or an ox, or a horse, if they had no money. In the afternoon, Mr. Boon had several of the parishioners to VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 151 meet me at dinner. I again pressed upon their atten- tion tlie duty of offering of their substance to God; and urged them to devote at least a tenth to His service. In the evening, walked out to call upon the Church- Avardens. Friday ilh. — Rode to Retief, thirty miles, through the same beautiful country which I admired so much two years ago. We called on oue or two of the parish- ioners by the way. One, who had been a wealthy former on my last visit, was now a bankrupt. I believe his loss is proving gain to him. I endeavoured to turn the hour I sat with him and his wife to good account. I trust he may yet live to bless God for his chastise- ment. I examined at Kaal Hock, a little school of about thirty children, which Mr. Willson had got up since I was last here. The children are, I think, ad- vancing. This school receives 30/. a-year from govern- ment. I am anxious to see more of these country schools spreading throughout the colony. If they do not, the next generation of the agricultural population will grow up in barbarism. At present, the government funds are given almost exclusively to support free schools in the towns and villages, which want little or no assistance, and set very little value on the govern- ment. Some of these cost between 300/. and 400/. a- year, and are doing but little good. It is with the greatest difficulty that schools are raised or maintained in the country districts, where the popvilation is scat- tered. Saturdatj 5th. — This morning I went a few miles to examine another church school. There were about thirty children here also. It put me much in mind of our little village schools in England. As but few people came to our church meeting, appointed to take place at twelve o'clock, it was soon over, and I had some time in the afternoon for letter writing. Sunday 6th. — We had a large gathering of people this 152 niSIIOP OF CAPETOWN S morning. Divine service was held in the commissariat room of the Fort, which makes an excellent chapel. It was quite crowded, and indeed many had to remain outside. I did not preach, but, instead, addressed the congregation extempore after morning prayer upon such points as I felt it to be of importance to bring before them. These people, the greater part of whom are old settlers with not much education, have risen by their own exertions to competency. From long neglect and lack of teaching, they have not, 1 fear, much knowledge. I therefore spoke to them very familiarly, contrasting their past state without the means of grace, with their present blessings; and urging them to devote the tenth of their substance to forward the work of the Lord, in the erection of churches, support of ministers, and missions. I addressed separately the unconfirmed and unwilling to be confirmed, the confirmed, communi- cants, and those who neglect communion. After this we proceeded with the confirmation ; when I again addressed the candidates, of whom there were eight. The number of communicants was fifteen. The people seemed to feel the services of the day a good deal. All, or nearly all, remained for the afternoon ser- vice, when I preached again, — though many came from a great distance. Several of the ^vagons would not reach home till to-morrow. The day has been one of much comfort both to Mr. Willson and myself. 1 trust there is a real Avork going on in the souls of some. Certainly there is a manifest improvement in the general state of things. May God give more abundant grace ! ' Oct. 7th. — We started early this morning for Shiloh. The distance is about forty-five miles. Our route lay over the Winterberg, and we had to walk up the pas.s. In our way I called upon a sick man, dying, I believe, from the excessive use of brandy; I was told that he (1) See Note E, at the end of the Volume. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 153 took two bottles daily. He professed to be penitent, but I stand in donbt of him. Unfortunately one of the Cape Corps horses took ill upon the road. The Hotten- tots did not know Avhat to do with him. I therefore took out my lancet and bled him. I left him to come on slowly with one of the orderlies, but he was obliged to leave him about six miles off on the road. I start at daybreak to-morrow to see what can be done for him. We arrived about five o'clock at the ISIoravian Mission station at Shiloh. The Brethren received us most kindly, but I found they had no forage, and that my cart had gone on beyond Whittlesea to find some. After changing my dress, and taking a cup of tea, I walked with Mr. Bonatz, one of the Missionaries, to Whittlesea, which is about two miles off, notice having been given that I would hold service there this evening. The village is quite in its infancy. The only pastoral visits which it enjoys are those of Mr. Willson, who holds service here once a quarter. Mr. Shepstone, how- ever, the magistrate, reads prayers every Sunday. We had a room full of people. I had intended to preach to them : but as I had unexpectedly two candidates, both of whom Mr. V/illson presented to me as fit for con- firmation, I thought it best to make two short addresses — one to the congregation, the other to the candidates. After service I discussed with a few of the people the possibility of the erection of a small chapel. They thought one could be raised for 100^., and that they could collect 75/. I told them that in that case, I would guarantee them the other 251., to be paid when the building was roofed in. They said that they thought some funds could be raised for the support of a minister. I told them that what they should aim at would be a deacon schoolmaster, who should both educiite their children, and minister to them in things spiritual. We reached home about half-past nine o'clock, and luckily got safe through the host of dogs, which dwell in great 154 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S numbers in all native habitations, and are very danger- ous at night. Shiloh has 20,000 acres of valuable land attached to it, given lately to the Society by Sir H. Smith. There are about 800 people in the Institution : Kafirs, Fingoes, and Hottentots ; 300 of whom are Christians. A considerable quantity of land is under cultivation, and there is a fine stream of water, in spite of which, in this severe drought, their crops are suffering greatly. Mr. Bonatz informed me that some of the Kafirs have as many as 100 head of cattle. There are 2,000 head altogether upon the Institution, which is clearly in a thriving state. There are four Missionaries with their families. The whole cost of their support is about 200/. a-year. To meet this the mill produces 100/., and the remainder is obtained by the sale of the produce which they raise, by the shop, and by the wages paid to the Missionaries for work done by them, some being carpenters, others blacksmiths. The people pay no rent for the use of the land, nor do they seem to give much in the way of offerings. Mr. Bonatz spoke of the rumours, which are spread everywhere, of an outbreak amongst the Kafirs. He said that they were dissatisfied at the repeated burnings of their kraals. This only happens, 1 believe, when they cross the frontier, and squat upon land belonging to the Government or to private individuals. Tuesday Sl/i. — I did not sleep much last night, being anxious about the horse, which Ave had left in the veldt. At half-past four I called up the orderlies, and, after feeding the horses, went in search of the lost one. We found he had gone from where he was left over night, but traced him to a kraal, where the Kafirs had taken care of him. I drenched him with a bottle of wine which I had brought out for him, and sent him gently on to the Kafir police-station, where I had procured forage. I then returned to Shiloh, after a three hours' ride, with a hghter heart. The good brethren .soon prepared VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 155 breakfast for me, after wLicli I -".valked round their vil- lage and grounds. There is a vast superiority in the Moravian establishments, so far as civilization and im- provement are concerned, over all other institutions in this colony. There is more work done, greater industry, and a more rapid advance in agricultural and mechanical operations. There are two water courses cut here, three miles long, which were full even in this dreadful drought. The gardens were in excellent order, and abounded with a variety of fruit-trees ; walnut, peach, apricot, vine, mulberry, apple, and pear. Some very large fields, all under irrigation, were fenced in with a willow hedge ; the churchyard, a quiet, secluded, peace- ful spot, surrounded with an excellent quince fence. The oak and the willow abounded on every side. All seemed busy : I did not see any lying lazily about ; several very good mud houses were in the course of erection ; a Kafir was planing a door in the carpenter's shop. Mr. Bonatz showed me, with some pride, a bell just cast by Mr. Nauhaus, and made out of the hoops that surrounded some ammunition casks left at the station during the last war. It was 45 lbs. weight, and sounded well. It seemed to me as an illustration of the promise that the sword should be turned into the plough- share, and the spear into the pruning hook.^ I parted from the Brethren sooner than I could have wished, and walked to Whittlesea to call upon some of the inhabi- tants who were at service last night. They seem anxious to erect a little school chapel, even though I was unable to promise them services more frequently than once a quarter. After tiffin with Mr. Lloyd, Lieu- tenant of Kafir police, I walked to see a Bushman's cave in the neighbourhood. There are several of these in this part of the country : the sides are covered with rude drawings of men, animals, snakes, &c. This one had pictures of Kafirs, represented as tall and red, Bush- (1) See Note F, at the end of the Volume. 156 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S men shooting with the bow,— cows, deer, snakes, buf- faloes, and some other indescribable animals; the execution was very imperfect. The Bushmen are, I believe, the only aboriginal inhabitants who have shown any disposition to imitate nature. There are still a certain number of Bushmen in this district of Victoria ; they are under a chief of the name of Vlux, formerly, I am told, a soldier in the Cape Corps. The Govern- ment has recognised their right to a certain tract of land ■^^ithin the colony. This being more than they want for their own use, they have let it out to the Tam- bookies, or allowed them to occupy it. Under the pretence of rent they seem, lately, to have seized a con- siderable number of cattle and goats, and blood has been shed in consequence ; we have had therefore to interfere, and have captured nineteen Bushmen, through means of the Kafir police, and they are now in the "Tronk" awaiting their trial. There has also been a disturbance between the Boers and Tambookies about some disputed land. It is said that the Tambookies are leaving our frontier, and retiring back upon the unin- habited country through which I passed on my way from Natal, to secure peace and quiet. About two o'clock I started off again in my cart, en route for Burghcrsdorp. We slept at Kama's town, a Wesleyan Missionary station imder the charge of Mr. Shepstone, several of whose sons are filling important posts in the country. He received us very kindly. The Station is upon land given by Government to the chief, Kama, who has stood by the English in both the last wars, literally renouncing kindred, land, and home, for the Gospel's sake.' He is brother to Pato and Cobus Congo, both powerful chiefs in British Kaffraria. I was anxious to see this man, because he is allowed, even by those who deny that any Kafirs are Christians, to be sincere in his profession. He has two sons, who (1) See Note G, at the end of the Volume. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 157 fire living on the Station, both very excellent young men ; I had much conversation with them. Wednesdaii 9th. — Kama, hearing that I wished to see him, came over by seven o'clock this morning from his own place, distant about five miles. He was well dressed, and has a fine open countenance. I was glad to find that he was happy and contented with his land, Avhich I had heard was not the case. His people, I believe, are 3,000 in number. Each head of a family pays 1/. a-year to government. Mr. Shepstone said they complained of this; but I think, while the great body of the coloured people do not consume articles of import to any extent, and therefore pay no indirect taxes, it is quite reasonable that they should contribute in some way to the expenses of the country ; e.cj. there is a division of the Kafir police in their immediate neighbourhood, a most eff'ective body, to which they, as well as all the colonists on the frontier, are much indebted, but to whose support they could not contri- bute at present except by a direct tax. Kama spoke much of the present excited state of the Kafirs in con- sequence of the appearance of the prophet, of whom I have before spoken. He says that up to the period when this man assumed the oflice of a prophet, no one dreamt of war, but that he is now exercising an extra- ordinary influence over them, and he thinks that they will do whatever he urges upon them. Many of Kama's own people have gone after him. Kama has sent one of his Pacati to his brother Pato to entreat him to have nothing to do with the prophet, or with war ; and he has sent to ask the prophet himself what his message from Heaven is : telling him that he is a Christian, and cannot believe that he is a prophet unless he speaks in accordance with God's word. He says, that he thinks the common people amongst the Kafirs are satisfied with British rule, and feel the comfort of not being " eaten up ;" but that they cannot endure the restraint 158 nrsHOP of Capetown's of not being allowed to roam about wLcre they please. I parted with Mr. Willson here, he returning home, and I proceeding on my journey. Our route lay through the ordinary South African country, dry and sandy plains, and valleys bounded by bare and bleak moun- tains. I found a good number of English farms in this part of the country. The people are living as sheep without a shepherd. They are, in spite of great losses in cattle, from the thefts of their neighbours the Tam- bookies, all growing rich, and could they but be induced to offer the tenth of their substance to God, might have their spiritual wants supplied. We passed the night at a little inn kept by an Englishman. Thursday lOi/i. — After a tolerable night upon the sofa, I proceeded on my journey through a country precisely similar in its general features to that which I passed through yesterday. Slept at a Dutch farmer's, the good vrouw making me a bed on some chairs. Friday. — The weather has become intensely cold; there was ice of some thickness on the vley near to the farm, and the wind was so cutting yesterday that I was fain to have recourse to a horse-cloth. We reached Burghcrsdorp about eleven o'clock. It is a most deso- late looking village, and reminded me, with its little square brick houses used only at the nacht-maals by the farmers, more of Richmond than of any other place in the colony. It would be difficult to say what local advantage could have tempted any one to fix upon such a spot for a village. The country round about is bare and uninteresting, — the village itself is a swamp, and it does not appear to offer a single advantage. It owes its rise, like some other villages in this colony, to the Boer's desire to have a village. When once this is determined on, a farm is purchased, a town laid out, erven sold. The farmers tliemselves purchase erven, and traders, &:c. soon follow. Many buy on speculation. The proceeds go to erect a church. In this way £6,000. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 159 or 80,000 dollars have been realized, a cliurch has been built, ali'eady showing symptoms of decay, and a very handsome parsonage, the best, I think, in the colony. Had this large sum been judiciously laid out, it wovild have provided an endovrment, as well as buildings. I understand that one of the conditions of the sale of erven, since rescinded, was that no place of worship for any other body of Christians than the Dutch Church, should be erected. Such being the case, one need not be surprised that the congregation were unwilling, as their amiable young minister desired, to offer their church to me to officiate in on Sunday, there being no Dutch service on that day, owing to the absence of the minister. I took up my quarters at a little inn. Saturday \1th. — Being at an inn, I have had some quiet in the morning for business ; at ten o'clock I met the members of the church by appointment in the court house. I told them that I had come amongst them on a visit of inquiry to seek out the members of the church, and take counsel with them as to the supply of their spiritual wants. That I wished during my short stay to see as much of them as possible, and to perform any religious offices. That I was ready to baptize their children, confirm any whom I might find prepared, hold Divine service amongst them, and cele- brate the Holy Communion. All expressed their earnest desire to have a clergyman. I told them that the only difficulty was the providing an adequate maintenance. That Government could give no more assistance, even if inclined, — the state of the revenue was not such as to admit of it ; — that I could not maintain one ; but if they were prepared to bear the main burden I would aid them as for as lay in my power. It was thought that if one would combine education with the pastoral work he might be maintained. I told them I would look out for such a person as they required, provided they raised the funds ; that I should prefer to have a 160 BISHOP OF Capetown's clergyman who could give liimsclf exclusively to the •work of the ministry, visiting the farm houses in the country periodicalh', for that I felt that the farmers' families were sinking gradually into practical hea- thenism, and that unless something was done for them, the next generation would lose all sense of religion ; that in this very neighbourhood I had met with children who could not say the Lord's Prayer. They seemed to feel the force and importance of this, but thought that with- out combining education, a maintenance could not be secured. It was ultimately agreed that a committee should be formed with a view to take the whole matter into consideration, and report to me. They were also to endeavour to raise funds for the erection of a school chapel, to which I promised assistance. Should a clergyman be appointed, he is to officiate once a month at Aliwal. A Hottentot, baptized in Capetown, was the first to subscribe. He gave 61. and s.aid that he should rejoice to have a church to which he might go without fear of being turned out for being a coloured man ; that he had not ventured for this reason to set foot in the Dutch Church since he had been here. I afterwards called upon several people, and visited two sick men, one of whom I found brought to repentance by his affliction. He complained grievously of the want of a minister, and offered 51. a-year to support one. I dined with Mr. Cole, the Civil Commissioner, and in the even- ing had five candidates for confirmation, with whom I spent a couple of hours. Two of these were daughters of a former London Societj' Missionary. Sunday 13///.— Held service in the Court-house this morning, which was crowded. The responses were very fairly made, the singing good. I addressed the candidates extempore, preached, and administered the Holy Communion to seven persons. The service was, in consequence, somewhat long. In the afternoon the congregation was equally good, several being obliged to VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 161 go away for want of room. I baptized some children after the second lesson. The offerings for the support of the ministry amounted to 8/. 8s. Between services I visited some sick, and administered the Holy Commu- nion to one person. In the evening several people came by invitation to converse with me. The services of the day have been very satisfactory. 3Io!fcIfff/ 14/A. — Started this morning a little after six, for Aliwal North, distant about forty miles. The road is dreary and uninteresting, and there are but few farms. I drove round by the hot-springs, which are about two miles from the proposed village. These springs cast up about a million and a half of gallons of water daily, at a temperature of aboi\t 92^. The water tastes precisely similar to the Harrogate, but loses its peculiar smell and flavour by the time it reaches Aliwal. The village is situated on a fine plain on the banks of the Orange River, by an excellent drift. There are not many houses at present; but being, as it is said, in the direct line from East London to Bloemfontein, with a very fair road, it will, I think, hereafter flourish. The journey to East London may, I understand, be accomplished in eight days, and that to Bloemfontein in five. Shortly after my arrival, a single inhabitant presented himself as a deputation from the public, and welcomed me, in a formal address signed by about twenty people, to Aliwal, hoping that my visit would lead to the erection of a church and support of a minister. I told him that this depended almost altogether upon themselves. I soon fovmd that he at least was in earnest, and therefore entered into conversation with him. He asked what would be required to support a minister. I replied, L50/. a-year. He undertook to raise the money, and offered 201. a-year himself. I encouraged him to make the attempt. We then went to examine sites for school, parsonage, and church ; after which I rode out a few miles into the country to baptize some children. The M 162 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S state of the family will very fairly illustrate the condi- tion of a large number of English on this frontier. I shall therefore explain it. The father was an Englishman, well connected at home. He came out to the colony young, took to travelling, trading, elephant-shooting, and riotous living. Subsequently he married an entirely uneducated English girl, and settled down upon a farm. For several years he has lived without GoD in the world ; but as his children begin to grow up around him, he is brought to think seriously of his responsi- bilities towards them. I found that not one of them could write, or read, or spell — that they could not even speak the English language. Unless something be done, and speedily done, for the outlying English and Dutch farmers in these remote districts, both for the education of their children and the supply of their own spiritual wants, they will ere long sink into a state little better than that of the heathen who are round about them. Tuesday \Mh. — This morning I held Divine service at eight o'clock, in a large room in the house where I spent the night. The room was full. I baptized two more children, and preached extempore from Mark viii. 36, 37 : " What shall it profit a man, if he gain the w hole world, and lose his ow n soul ? or w hat shall a man give in exchange for his soul ?" I spoke plainly and simply, endeavouring to apply the words to those who were present. After service, the subscription was proceeded with, and upwards of 10/. guaranteed for five years towards the support of a minister. A subscription Avas also commenced for a church. I hear from various people in this neighbourhood, that the recent proclamation, by which 150 miles square of territory, reaching nearly to the Witte Bergen, has been added to the colony, has given great dissatis- faction, especially to the coloured people, to whom it belongs. The inhabitants are chiefly Tanibookies, For VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 163 tlie benefit of being placed under British government, they pay a capitation tax of 7s. for each head of a family. The district is called a " Native Reserve." No European is allowed, at present, to settle in it, or to purchase land of the natives. The name of the chief of the tribe is Morosi,' and he has recently been to Bui'ghersdorp, to protest against being brought under British government. I heard from an intelligent Eng- lish farmer to-day, that considerable tracts of land are being bought in Moshesh's country for one penny an acre, or for a few oxen. This ought not to be allowed. It will gradually lead to the expulsion of the Bechuanas from their land. It is not allowed in the case of a neighbouring chief, Adam Kok : he is not permitted to dispose of his land, and for a very sufficient reason, — he does not know the value of it, and would soon be cheated out of the whole. No coloured man under- stands the value of land. He would at any time part w ith large quantities for a few oxen, a little tobacco, &c. We did not return to Burghersdorp till eight o'clock. After taking a mouthful of dinner, I went out to see some people who desired to converse with me, espe- cially one person who had expressed an earnest wish to be confirmed before I left. I was so pleased with her, that I promised to confirm her privately at six o'clock to-morrow morning, as it may very probably be three years before I can visit this place again. She knew her Catechism perfectly, and traced all her religious im- pressions to the old clerk at Port Elizabeth and his Sunday-school. Wedimduy IQth. — After confirming the person of •whom I have spoken above, I made an early start for Cradock. Our road lay through an uninteresting country, abounding in the spring-bok. We passed the night at an inhospitable Dutch boer's place, who re- ceived me coldly enough as an Englishman ; and, after (1) He has since engaged in the war. 164 BISHOP OF CAPET0^V^•'S I had retired to my cart, finding from my man ■who I was, regretted that he had not known before, for he ■would have refused me shelter. As it ■was, I ■\ras indebted to him for nothing but a little tripe and pigs' feet for supper. Many of these poor people believe that there are no other Bishops but those in commu- nion ^vith Rome; and entertaining, as they do, a trans- mitted and hereditary hatred and fear of Romanists, are imw illing to receive them into their houses, or to bid them God-speed. I passed a sleepless night. There being no forage but what -was growing hard by, my poor horses, a''ter travelling nearly fifty miles, Mere obliged to be tethered for the night, without their suppers, to an empty vragon. They were consequently very restless, and one of them got his fore-legs en- tangled in the wagon, and passed three liours erect on his hind-legs, struggling to emancipate himself. I thought for a long while that they were merely quar- relling, but at length I got up, and was enabled to release him. We started in the morning without our breakfast, the family resisting all attempts on my part at friendly conversation. The good wife at parting refused me a piece of bread for the road, though I had just before paid her double what she could have ex- pected. At the next farm we came to, the people were very obliging, and gave us what they had. At night 1 slept at another Dutch farm, at which the family w ere in all respects a perfect contrast to those with whom I had been the previous evening. They were cheerful, amiable, kind-hearted, and treated me, as is generally the case with the respectable Dutch boers, all the more courteously 'out of regard to the sacred office 'which I bear. On Friday, at two o'clock, I arrived at Cradock. The greater part of the last three hours I walked, the road being hilly and stony. I find we have taken the shortest, indeed, but by no means the best road, and my cart VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 165 again shows evident symptoms of going to pieces ; in- deed another day's rough travelling ivithout repairs, would, I fear, make an entire wreck of it. Mr. Gilfillan, the Civil Commissioner, was kind enough to invite me to stay with him during my visitation ; but, finding that Mr. Gray had prepared a- room for me, I determined to take up my quarters with him ; and was very glad to find myself once more in the congenial society of one of my brethren in the ministry of Christ. On Sunday I preached twice, and confirmed in the Court-house. The congregations were very good. The Dutch Mmister had kindly offered his church, but I declined it, chiefly because I know that some of the Dutch dislike our using their churches, and I do not choose to be the cause of dissensions between minister and people ; but also because the Court-house is at present sufficiently large for our English Church con- gregation, and I do not think I am called upon to use a larger building to accommodate those who are not of us, but might desire to attend our services on the occasion of a Bishop's visitation, out of curiosity or compliment. I object also to make such a distinction between the ordinary ministrations of the Priest, and the occasional ministrations of the Bishop. Monday 2\st. — Held a meeting of the parishioners at twelve o'clock, with a view to take steps towards the immediate erection of a church. It appeared that out of 200/. promised two years ago, at my first visitation, only 163/. could now be depended upon, in consequence of deaths, removals, &c. The difference, however, has been almost made up through the offertory during the seven months that Mr. Gray has been here. The whole amount of the offerings being nearly 53/. or at the rate of lOOZ. a-year. We decided that a small church capable of future enlargement, to cost about 700/., should be begun, and that the town should be canvassed for further subscriptions. I announced to them also that JMr. Gray 166 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S •would be prepared to tnke pupils in order to meet the difficulty of finding means for his support. He is to give four hours a-day to school work, and take ten pupils at 10/. each. By this means, and with the assistance of the offertory, he will be able, I trust, to live without being any great. burden upon my limited funds. I decided, with the full concurrence of the parishioners assembled, that the offertory should, for the present, be appropriated in the following way — two Sundays in the month towards the building of the churcli ; two Sundays towards the support of the Ministry ; one Sunday in the quarter towards the missions of the church. Hitherto they had followed the plan sketched out in my Pastoral letter, without availing themselves of the liberty therein given to parishes circumstanced like this. Tliey had consequently applied the offertories in rotation to the purposes of church building, main- tenance of the ministry, education, missions, sick and aged clergy, and the poor. In the evening I held another and more general meeting of the parishioners, when I spoke to them for a little more than an hour on the past and present state of the Church, its future prospects, and the steps which I am taking with a view to the foundation of an ex- tensive mission. The clergy are anxious that I should touch upon these points in a more full and familiar way than can be done from the pulpit, and I feel that much good is effected by these meetings. I come by their means in closer contact with the lay members of the Church than I otherwise could ; I endeavour to lead them to feel that we are one body, one communion, one brotherhood, from St. Helena to the extreme border of Natal ; and to induce them to take an interest in our church work as a whole, which, hitherto, they have scarcely done at all. It is the flishion in the colony for congregations to regard themselves simply as congrega- tions, without recognising their relationship to the VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850, 167 other parts of the same body. I am enabled on these occasions to give them more complete and accurate in- formation as to the progress of the good cause in the Diocese, than they could elsewhere obtain, and to en- courage and stimulate them by the example and efforts of others. I find that they take an interest in what they hear, that they are comforted, and strengthened, and cheered amidst their own difficulties, by finding how others, circumstanced as they are, either have overcome them, or are doing so. And the result is, I think, that they exert themselves the more, and with a better courage. In the evening, also, I called upon the judge,' who had just arrived, and whom I found very ill. On calling again in the morning I found him somewhat better, and he determined to go into court. I did what I could to induce him to give up his intention, and return home, but was unable to succeed. He would not allow me to write to the Cape to say how unfit he was for duty, so I tore up the letter which I had pre- pared. I much fear that he will not be able to get through his work. JFednesdmj 28d. — Started late for Graaff Reinet, my cart not being ready, though four men had been at work upon it ever since my arrival. We lost our way, and arrived by a difficult road at an intelligent Englishman's, whei-e we passed the night. We were off again at day- break. In the middle of the day the iron axle of my cart suddenly broke. My first feeling was one of great thankfulness that this severe accident had not happened between Natal and King William's Town, for, had it been so, I must inevitably have left my cart, with the greater part of my luggage, to its fate. No assistance could have been obtained there. After taking some food, I mounted one of my horses, and rode Avith Mr. Gray (who accompanies me to Graaff Reinet) in search of assistance. After riding some hours we came to a (1) Judge Meiiziesdied soon afterwards on circuit. 168 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S farm, and obtained the ])romise of a span of oxen, and a Avagon, upon which it is proposed to put the cart, and bring it on to Mr. Liesching's, at Avhose house we arrived after dark. The road, hoAvevcr, over the uagon- pat-berg, is so very rocky and precipitous, that it seems doubtful whether the cart can be brought in this way. I\Ir. Licsching, therefore, in the morning, very kindly sent his son and a blacksmith with a bar of iron, in the hope that they may be able to repair the axle. Mean- time I remain with Mr. Liesching, feeling thankful that I have such comfortable quarter's. His farm, which is a very beautiful one, belonged to the rebel Pretorius. Mr. Gray rode ou to Graaff Reinet to announce the delay to Mr. Long, and to put off the consecration of Lis church. Saturday. — .\ day of disappointment. The smith who ■was sent to my cart got intoxicated, and did not remain to complete his job. He came back, however, saying all was done, and my man coming on with the cart. But shortly after Mr, Liesching's son came home with a different story. The smith's work w as a failure, and Ludvvig resolved to wait for the wagon, w hich he was expecting every hour. The Dutch Boer, who had made great professions of a desire to assist, had sent no wagon, but instead had gone himself to Graaff Reinet. A Hottentot, to whom he had committed the job, could not find his oxen, and nothing had been done. Mr. Liesching most kindly sent two more men to look for a Avagon and oxen. Graaff Reinet, Moiuhuj 2SlJi. — I was not able to leave Mr. Liesching's hospitable mansion till this morning, the cart only making its appearance yesterday afternoon. I have thus lost three whole days, which have, however, been employed in writing many letters, especially to friends at home, to whom under ordi- nary circumstances I find it almost impossible to write. Yesterday I held service twice in Mr. Lies- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 169 cliing's house. Some young persons in the neigh- bourhood, knowing that I tv as there, came over. During the day, I became very unwell, and passed the night in much pain. Mr. Liesching was good enough to lend me his cart, my own proceeding on the top of an ox wagon to Graaff Reinet to be repaired. J find the English round about this part of the country already speaking with great distrust and uneasiness of our proposed new constitution. They are, comparatively speaking, so few in number that they are afraid to make their sentiments known, and are already suffering some little degree of oppression on the part of their more numerous neigh- bours. Tuesday 29th. — I consecrated the church this morn- ing. There was a full congregation. The building has cost nearly 1,600/. and is not yet quite finished. I think it might have been completed for one-half the amount in England. It will hold about 250 persons, and is very neat and ecclesiastically correct. All are much delighted with it ; but there is a debt of between 300/. and 400/. still due upon it. Wednesday SOtk. — I held a confirmation at three o'clock. There were but a i'ew candidates, as I con- firmed here six months since. One Avas a Roman- catholic convert. I preached also, on the subject of Missions, to a very respectable congregation. 31s/. — The whole day spent in writing letters, of which 1 put twenty-two, some of them very important ones, into the post. 1 should have proceeded on my road to Somerset, to-day, had my cart been finished. The charges for these repairs, and for forage for my horses in the present severe drought, are exorbitant. At the three last villages I have paid upwards of 50/. for these things. Indeed, so heavy are the expenses attendant upon this long visitation, that the mere cost alone would prevent me from repeating it. The papers to-day have brought more fiivourable 170 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S news respectinjr the Kafirs. The Governor has had a meeting of them at Kinp; William's Town, at which most of the chiefs of the T'Slambie division (including my friend, Umhalla,) attended. Of the Gaikas there were fewer. Sandilli, the most powerful and disaffected of them, was absent. The Governor questioned them on the subject of war. They all declared they had never thought of it, and were his children. He told them that if a new war broke out, he would take their lands from them, drive them over the Kei, and hand them over to the tender mercies of Faku, and even Panda. The Governor has, I believe, determined to institute a searching inquiry into the causes of the late commotions. November Isf.— Left Graaff Reinet early this morning for Somerset, Mr. Gray returning at the same time to Cradock. At Graaff Reinet" the Church may now be considered as established. When the debt upon the church shall be nearly paid off, the parishioners will, I trust, be able to do more towards the support of their minister. At Cradock our work is quite in its infancy, but this being a rising town, I have but little doubt that God's cause will prosper under the earnest ministry of Mr. Gray. In no place, however, are the fruits of our past neglect more visible. We have a small congrega- tion which assembles in the Court-house; the Inde- pendents have a chapel ; the Methodists have two, built at a considerable cost, and by the aid, at least in some degree, of Churchmen; the Dutch, of course, have a church. It is generally understood that a certain number of the Methodists contemplate a return to the Church. More would undoubtedly return had we a church to fold them ; but they not unnaturally prefer a very respectable chapel, to which they liave been long ac- customed, to the uncomfortable, secular aspect of the VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 171 Coui't-liouse, which is suggestive to them of anything but pleasing associations. Our road to Somerset lay along the foot of a I'ange of mountains, and the country was more pleasing than I had anticipated. I saw here, for the first time, the spek-boom tree or shrub in full flower ; it had a very pleasing appearance. The flower is of a delicate pink, and reminds me more of the heliotrope than of any- other. We arrived in Somerset on Saturday afternoon. Had it not been for the kindness of Mr. Long, I should have been without any food the last day, for we out- spanned by an empty house, the farmer having, during drought, taken his stock to the mountains. The re- mains, however, of our yesterday's breakfast served to sustain us till we reached Mr. Pain's house in Somerset, where I soon obtained refreshment. I hear, as I travel through the country, more and more of the wretched state of the farmers through the increasing wholesale robberies of their Kafir and Hottentot servants. One Dutchman told me yesterday that he has lost 300 sheep within the last fortnight, driven away, but he knew not whither; another told me that he had lost a still larger number. What is wanted seems to be an efficient rural police, and, perhaps, a vagrant law. Of this latter, however, I am more doubtful, as it may easily be per- verted into an engine of great oppression to the coloured races. Sunday 3d. — Much gratified with the services of this day. The congregations were good, and not, I am told, much larger than usual. The Government school-room, in which I officiated, was neatly fitted up, and every thing was done decently and in order. I preached both morning and evening. There were sixteen communi- cants, and seven candidates for confirmation, whom I addressed extempore at evening prayer. November Ath. — Received visitors, and rode out to Glen Avon, one of the most beautiful farms in all South 172 BISHOP OF CAPETO^VN'S Africa. In the afternoon Mr. Pain Lad several members of the Church to dine, and others ajjain to tea in the evening. Somerset appears to me, on this occasion, even more pleasing than on my last visitation. It is beautifully situated at the foot of mountains abounding in wooded kloofs and ravines, and the village has an air of quiet, a peace and order about it, a\ Inch is very attrac- tive. Mr. Pain's house is next door to the London Society's Mission Chapel, and I was much gratified at beholding a numerous and well-dressed congregation of Hottentots and other coloured people attending it yes- terday. It was humbling not to see one coloured person at our service. God has been very long-suffering towards our Church, considering how fearfully negligent ■we have been, not only of the heathen in this land, but of our own people. It is marvellous that, after half a centiu-y of neglect, such a field should still be open to Its ; and that, as is, I believe, the case in this place, our congregation should be larger on a Sunday than that of other communions. God grant that we may redeem the time, and make amends for past neglect and unconcern, by redoubled diligence, zeal, and self-denial now. May He vouchsafe in time to come, as hitherto, His bless- ing upon our labours, and render us in our several sta- tions and degrees fit agents for carrying on His work in this land. If His presence go with us, we need fear nothing. November o/Ii. — This morning we had prayers in tlic school-room, Mr. Pain reading the service appointed for the day, which, however, I told him might be omitted in the colonies. There were about eighteen persons present, which is about the usual congregation at morn- ing prayer on "Wednesdays and Fridays. At twelve o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners in Mr. Pain's house, the school-room not being at liberty. The two questions for consideration were the continued support of the Ministry, and the erection of the church. Towards VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 173 the former, the Civil Commissioner, acting as Treasurer to the Church Committee, paid me 50/. 6s., being a trifle more than the amount guaranteed ; and it appeared that in addition to this the iveeldy offertory had averaged 11. a-week. With the parishioners' concurrence, I con- sented to cancel the subscription hst, and to depend altogether upon the offertory for carrying on onr work. It was decided that on two Sundays in the month the offerings should be for the support of the Ministry, and generally on the other two Sundays towards the erection of the Church ; — that once a quarter the offerings should be for Missions, and occasionally for sick and aged Clergy. It appeared that only 100/. had actually been paid into the bank towards the erection of the church. A fresh subscription was therefore opened for this special object, and several gentlemen undertook to advance 500/. on loan, depending upon the offertory for the liqui- dation of the debt. I promised to furnish them plans, working drawings, and specifications, for a church to hold 150, bnt capable of future enlargement, — the pro- bable cost would be 1,000/. After business was over I gave the parishioners an account of the present state of the Diocese, and our proposed Mission work, in which they appeared to take an interest. In the evening I returned the calls of the parishionei'S. The people in this village observe the fifth of November as ]ioisiiy as in England. There was a figure of Guy Fawkes, with a lantern, paraded about the streets, tin kettles, bonfires, ringing of bells, and shouting, till a late hour, November 6th. — Left Somerset after early prayers this morning. I was glad to find we had again a nice con- gregation. Mr. Pain and Mr. Brown accompanied me part of the way. I was not allowed to depart without a good supply of pat-koss, and other comforts provided by the kindness of the parishioners. I quit Somerset with much satisfaction. There is a good work, I be- 174 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S lieve, going on there, and Mr. and Mrs. Pain are both in earnest. They are taking a few pupils, male and female. The payments from the parents for their education are to be appropriated to the erection of the church. There has been some little opposition shown by the Dutch minister here, which has only tended to knit together in closer bonds the members of the Church. It will not be long, I trust, before a neat little church, in one of the prettiest parts of this very pretty village, will be erected to gladden the hearts of not a few earnest and devout members of our communion. Slept at the foot of the Zuurberg. My chamber was a shop filled with all sorts of goods, I had but little rest, in consequence of the incessant assaults of the too frequent companions of a night spent in a farmer's house. I was glad to hear from the farmer here that he had lost no sheep by stealing, — and that he had with him Fingo herds who had been in his service several years. He seemed disposed to think that the thefts and loss of sheep, so very generally complained of, arose in no small degree from motives of revenge : that the servants are frequently unfairly defrauded of their wages, under plea of making up losses, and that they are occasionally beaten very severely, and tied to the wagon wheel for that purpose. A Graham's Town paper, which I have seen to-day, announces that Sir H, Smith has deposed Sandilli, the most powerful chief in British Kafifraria. He refused, when summoned, to attend the meeting at King William's Town ; and is generally understood to have been the chief instigator of the Kafirs at the present time to war. What the next move will be, God only knows. Matters are in a very critical state. November 7lh. — Off at daybreak. The horses m ere unable to drag the cart up one very steep and stony pitch, in ascending the Zuurberg range. Even after unloading the cart, it required much exertion and flog- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 175 ging to get tliera up it. I took my usual post at the head of the leaders, but -when we got well off, could not keep up with them, and was trod upon. By our joint efforts we afterwards brought the luggage up. On these occasions I am sometimes much amused at thinking how people would stare in England at seeing a bishop in his shirt sleeves, with a box or bag on his back, ascending an African mountain. We arrived about 10 o'clock, by a very difficult road, at the first convict sta- tion. The religious teacher, or late missionary of the Berlin Society, kindly provided refreshment for myself and horses. After breakfast I inspected the station. In the three stations on this mountain there are 350 con- victs. Of these about 40 are English ; nO are Kafirs ; the remainder are chiefly Hottentots and people of Dutch extraction. The Kafirs all work in irons in the chain-gang. This is said to be necessary in consequence of their determined efforts to escape, and their proximity to their own country. There were several in hospital, chiefly with chicken-pox. I spoke for about half an hour on religious subjects with several Englishmen Avhom I found in confinement. The road, when finished, Avill be a fine piece of workmanship. It is one of Mr. Montague's great roads, which are of such vast import- ance to this colony. It is well engineered through a very difficult country. The southern side is nearly finished ; the northern hardly begun, but it m ill be finished, I believe, in less than a year. The object of this road is to open out the interior to the sea. It will be the direct route to the sovereignty, and the whole of the north, through Cradock, and perhaps Somerset. The descent is very fine. It commands most extensive views, and the mountains on each side are both precipi- tous and clothed with forest. The afternoon was de- lightfully cool. I do not know when I have enjoyed a drive so much. We slept at Commando Kraal, Sunday's River, having accomplished about fifty miles. 176 BISHOP OF Capetown's Novemher SUi. — Arrived about two o'clock at Uitcn- hago. I am, during my stay here, the guest of Mr. Cbase, the Civil Commissioner. Received a few visitors, and inspected a site which has been bought for the church, and which is not approved of by many. Un- happily I fear the state of the church in this parish is no better than when I was here two years since. November 9/h. — Visitors, correspondence, business with the church-wardens, &c. occupied the greater part of the day. November lO/h. — Our services this day were held in the court-house. I preached both morning and evening. There were twenty communicants in the morning, and I confirmed nine candidates in the evening. November llf/i. — Returned calls, and prepared for a public meeting of the parishioners of which I had given notice for this evening. . In the evening xs e had our meeting, which lasted two hours. It was decided almost unanimously that the church should be erected on the site originally granted by Government, and not upon that which the Church Building Committee had purchased a short time since for 80/. It was also decided that the church should contain 150 sittings; and I undertook to have plans prepared. There appeared to be about .500/. to be de- pended upon, and it was arranged that the new Building Committee, which was appointed at this meeting, should Ciinvass the parish for additional subscriptions. A me- morial was addressed to (Jovernment lor an extension of the site formerly granted, and for sites for .school and parsonage. I trust that the dissensions upon these points, which have now lasted for a period of three years, will at length be brought to a close, and that the church will be proceeded with. November \2lk. — Business .and correspondence in the morning. The accounts from the frontier are some- what more encourairing. The governor has left King VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 177 William's Town, and is in Graham's Town, He has had another meeting of the Gaika chiefs. He allows San- dilli to live with his mother, Sutu, who is to be respon- sible for his conduct. But he is no longer to be a chief. Time only will show whether the Governor's word alone, can induce the 14,000 followers of this chief to withdraw their allegiance from him, and to transfer it to the com- missioner. The frontier people do not seem satisfied ; but I think they are unreasonable, and will not be satis- fied without the deposition of all the chiefs, which would be most unjust upon principle, and undoubtedly lead to another war, A note from my dear brother, the arch- deacon, informed me that he had started on foot for liloemfontein, being anxious to visit it, and to return home by Christmas, His route will be by Cradock, Colesberg, Bloemfontein, Caledon River, Aliwal, Burgh- ersdorp, Whittlesea, Shiloh, Fort Beaufort, and so home. If he is able to accomplish this he will have traversed at least 800 miles in about six weeks. This journey will not be accomplished without much difficulty, and I fear, some danger. The Boers not uufrequently shut their doors in his face, telling him he is a "bandit" or convict. Sometimes he has had, in consequence, but mean fare, and has, I fear, at times been in actual want; but nothing can damp his indomitable energy, or break his heroic spirit. He is cheerful in the midst of every trial and hardship that he is called to endure. Well may all love him, and admire his great self-denial and zeal. Left Uitenhage (Nov. 12) about two o'clock for Port Elizabeth, and arrived at Mr. McCleland's about half- past five. November 16///.— On Wednesday evening we had ser- vice in church. I preached to a very respectable con- gregation. On that day also I met the committee for the collection of subscriptions towards a new church. It appeared that upwards of 500/. had been pledged, and N 178 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S tbat, when the whole town sliiill have been canvassed, GOO/, may be depended upon. We were not able to fix. upon a plan. On Thursday I held a confirmation, when twenty-one young persons were received into full com- munion with the Church. On P^riday evening we had ser- vice also in the church, when I preached again, to a large congregation for a week-day, though I was so hoarse from a severe cold as almost to be unable to speak. On Saturday I attended another meeting of the Church Building Committee, when we decided upon the outline of a plan, for which I Avas to furnish a design and working drawings. Called on several of the parish- ioners. Sunday, Mlh. — The congregations to-day were very large ; indeed some were obliged to go away for want of room ; I Avas sorry to see some of the soldiers leaving on this account. As the congregation consisted almost exclusively of church people, it shows how much an additional church is required. There were about fifty communicants. The collection to-Jay was appropriated to the support of the ministry. In the afternoon I at- tended the funeral of one of the most respectable mem- bers of the church in this town. In the evening I con- firmed eight additional candidates, who had not been able to present themselves at the previous confirmation. I have been very unwell all day, and have got through the services with difficulty. Nocembcr \^th. — It is with much satisfaction that I turn my face homewards again. I have still a journey of about 700 miles before me, but I shall be shortening the distance daily. My energies, after nearly eight months' incessant labour, are beginning to flag. The Governor is expected at Port Elizabeth, I believe, to-day, on his way back l)y sea to Capetown. I regret that I cannot remain to see him ; but a day's delay would disturb all my arrangements. I slept this evening on the banks of the Gamtoos River, Part of our journey lay along the VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 179 sea-coast. The sight of the sea always gives me plea- sure, though in this land it is not unmixed with sadness, for it recalls recollections of the past. There is a satis- faction, however, in merely Avatching the avrjpi6fxov ye- }^aa-fia KHfiarav, and this satisfaction I have enjoyed to-day. In the evening I had a good deal of conversa- tion with my host, who was an Englishman, about the Missionary Institution at Hankey, which I was anxious to have visited, but I could not do so without interfering with my engagements. Tuesday, i.9(h. — Slept at the house of Mr. Mackintosh, who is living upon the farm of his relative, Captain Boys. I spent a few hours two years ago with these pleasing families, who are members of the Church. As they did not lie in the direct road, I had not intended to visit them this time, having a very heavy week's journey before me. Mrs. Mackintosh, however, wrote to express her regret that I did not, and I therefore changed my plan. In the evening I held Divine Service, preaching extempore. I baptized also three children. I had a good deal of conversation with Captain Boys about Hankey, which, he told me, Mr. Phillip, the Missionary, was very anxious that I should visit. I ■was very glad to hear a very different account of the Institution from what Mr. had given me. Captain Boys informed me that it was in a highly satisfactory condition ; that, so far as the improvement and civiliza- tion of the people were concerned, there was a real work going on ; that, as a magistrate, he could afBrm that the amount of crime for so large a population, upwards of 3,000, was very small ; that bad characters were dismissed ; and that the Institution was, in his judgment, doing as much good as any that he had seen. There is no doubt that Captain Boys' opinion, as a man of education, a gentleman, and a magistrate, and living in the immediate neighbourhood, ought to have very great weight. 180 BISHOP OF CAPET0\\'N'S November 20ih. — Started early. The weather is singularly cold for this season of the year ; I have been sitting all day in the cart with my great-coat on, and a horse-cloth round my legs. Outspanncd at a Dutch fanner's, where I slept two years ago. I found his children all talking English, having an English tutor. There was another Englishman there, who expressed great disappointment at finding I had left Uitenhage and the Bay without his knowing of my being there. He told me a Dutch farmer in the neighbourhood had promised to let him know. He had meant to ride in from a distance of seventy miles, and to present himself for confirmation. I would have confirmed him on the spot if I had had time, as he seemed much in earnest. He did not, however, open his heart to me till I was going away, and I could not then, without breaking engagements, remain to examine and confirm him. I could only therefore tell him to put himself in communication with Mr. McCleland at Port Elizabeth. I find there are a good many English scat- tered amongst the farms in this district. It would be very desirable if I could appoint a clergyman to itinerate through the Lange Kloof, between George and Uiten- hage, a rich and flourishing district, 200 miles in length, but without any minister for the white population. The new village of Human 's-dorp, where the Dutch are just finishing a church, but for which they can find no minis- ter, though Government have, I believe, promised a stipend, might form an excellent station for a monthly service. The whole country is looking quite green and fresh after the late rains. Arrived somewhat late at the house of Dr. Buchan. November 2\st. — Off again a little after six o'clock. It rained in torrents the v> hole day, and the tops of the mountains were covered with snow. Just before arriving at a house where I slept on my last visitation, my cart and horses sunk in a complete bog of mud in the very middle of the road. In a miiuite four horses were fioun- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 181 dering, and totally incapable of extricating themselves. After getting almost bogged myself in endeavouring to relieve them, I left the cart and horses with the men, and ran to the farm for assistance. This was most cheerfully rendered; nearly a dozen men, including some travellers, returned with me. They speedily re- leased the horses from their comfortless bed, and drew the cart out of its difficulties, taking it all the way to the house. I found that this family instantly recollected me ; I had given them all Prayer-books on my last visitation, and heard them read. They received me very kindly. Mr. Welby sometimes comes down as far as this, and Dr. Andrews, who can officiate in Dutch, has occasionally held services here. The people are anxious to know when he wiU come again, and ask if he cannot come oftener. November 22d. — Another very cold and wet day. I had calculated upon enjoying much my drive up the Lange Kloof, which is a part of the colony that I like ; but the substitution of an English winter for an African summer is enough to mar all enjoyment. We slept at Van Roy's, a farmer who, on my first visitation, supplied me very kindly with horses free of all expense. I found that since that time he had considerably altered, and Angli- cised his house. The great hall, which occupies so con- siderable a portion of a Dutch farm-house, was divided into two good rooms. There was a third sitting-room, with round table and fire-place, the first, I think, that I have seen in any farm in the country, and in which we had a good fire of wood. I found here an Englishman, formerly a Roman Catholic, but whom I confirmed in my first visitation, keeping school at this place, and as zealous as ever. I thanked him for an erf which he had given since 1 last saw him to the Church at Blanco. He told me that the Dutch show a great unwillingness to have their children taught English ; that they say there will be no need of it now that they are to have 182 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S a representative government, that henceforth all viill be Dutch. Saturday, 23d. — A fine day, and a delightful drive of three hours to Mr. Richardson's. As usual, I arrived before I was expected, and before Mr. Welby from George, who had been detained by the river. He came about eleven o'clock, and we had much interesting .ind important conversation. Mr. and Mrs. Henery were both far from well. They are, I hope, doing much good here. In the evening I examined the night school, and found it in a satisfactory state. Sat up late writing letters. Schoonherg, November 2ith. — The services of this day have been full of interest. There was Sunday-school ill the morning ; it consisted chiefly of coloured people. At the morning service eighty-five were present ; there were fifteen communicants ; I preached extempore. In the afternoon there was a large congregation ; eight were confirmed, five of whom were people of colour. I both addressed the candidates and preached. This may be considered at present as one of our most direct missionary posts in the diocese. It shows, I trust, some signs of future promise ; already several who were heathens have been baptized and confirmed, and have become communicants. I grieve to say there is much difficulty in keeping up the work, from lack of means. Mr. Richardson is anxious to proceed as soon as possible with the erection of the church. He has given four acres of land, and offers 100/. towards the building. There will be some dilliculty, I fear, in raising the necessary funds. Money is not plentiful, and almost everv village in the colony is exerting itself in behalf of its own church. November 25th. — Rode over the Devil's Kop this morning in company with Mr. Welby, my cart proceed- ing by the direct road to George, to await my arrival there next week. A thick cloud was on the top of the VISITATION JOURNAL, 1 8'iO. 183 mountain, which effectually prevented my enjoying the very fine views which, I am told, present themselves on every side. As we descended the mountain, however, and got under the cloud, we were enabled to get a view of the sea, the lakes, the forest, and the nearer moun- tains, and gradually the weather cleared up so as to allow us fully to appreciate the beauty of the prospect before us. We did not reach Mr, Dumbleton's till past ten o'clock, though we started a quarter before six, the road over the mountain being very rocky and precipit- ous. Wagons still continue to pass over this mountain with loads of wood from the forests beneath. How they manage I know not. I am sure it would have been pronounced impossible by anj^ one who had not seen what a South African ox-wagon can do, and where it can go. After resting an hour for breakfast at Mr. Dum- bleton's, I rode on with him through the beautiful Knysna country, which I have so often before admired, to Meding's, he having provided me with fresh horses, and leading one which carried my saddle-bags. At Meding's we found that our relays had not arrived. After off-saddling, therefore, for a time, we proceeded towards Mr. Currey's ; but just as we had mounted the hill, ive met Mr. Duthie, Mr. E. Rex, and Mr. Andrews, with fresh horses. We therefore returned, and, having removed our bags, proceeded rapidly to Belvidere, where we arrived a little after sunset, having had a most de- lightful ride of about ten hours. After having seen nearly all South Africa, I am still of opinion that the Knysna district is, perhaps, the most lovely of the whole. The only country to be compared with it is that in the immediate neighbourhood of D'Urban, Port Natal ; but I do not think it, beautiful as it is with its tropical plants, &c., quite equal to this. I remained for the night at Mr. Duthie's. November 26th. — This morning I rode after breakfast to call upon Mr, and Mrs. Barrington, at Portland. 184 BISHOP OF Capetown's I knew that if I did not go this morning I should pro- bably not see them at all. On our way back to Melville I was met by a large party of gentlemen on horseback from that village. RIy arrival in the village was honoured with a salute of one gun, and with Hying of flags. I rode up immediately to the church, which is about half built. I am happy to say that a very fine stone has been found close at hand in time to use it for the quoins, buttresses, and windows, for which the stone of which the walls are built would not have done. The church is a decorated building, copied from an ancient English church, and is intended to be the chancel of a larger edifice. I slept at Mr. Andrews', and passed a quiet evening, a portion of which was spent in talking over with the mason the working drawings of the plans of a proposed plain Norman church at Belvidere; and in endeavouring to convince an earnest and respectable Irvingite that he ought to conform to the Church. He thought so, too ; his only scruple was about a double confirmation, having been already confirmed by " the Apostles." He determined to refer the matter to them. November 27th. — Started at seven o'clock this morn- ing for Plettenburg Bay. We called in our way at several houses, and reached Mr. Bull's, the catechist here, after a ride of about twenty-seven miles, at one o'clock. Just as we arrived at the Residency, a party of twenty newly baptized coloured people, quite of their own accord, came out to meet me. They sang a hymn, and then welcomed me to the Bay. I was the more pleased with this, because neither Mr. nor Mrs. Bull knew of their intention. After a few minutes' rest I began an examination, first of the candidates for con- firmation, and next of the catechumens, Mr. Andrews assisting in the Dutch parts. Some seemed to feel a good deal ; but I had not sufficient time to carry on individual examinations to any great extent, for our VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 1S5 service began a little after three o'clock ; ^Yllell eighteen adults were baptized and nineteen infants, and twelve persons were confirmed ; the congregation consisting of nearly eighty. The whole were coloured people except two emigrant girls, who were confirmed, and these have all been instructed in the faith, and prepared for admis- sion into the fold of Christ, and to full communion, by Mr. Bull, who has laboured very diligently and earnestly •v.mongst them. It is only a few months since nine adults and ten infants, from amongst the heathen, were baptized in the same place by Mr. Welby, the Rural Dean. A portion of the service was conducted in Dutch by Mr. Andrews. Several of the candidates for confirmation were deeply impressed, and all seemed to feel the solemnity of the occasion. I addressed them as simply and plainly as I could in English, and most of them, if I may judge from their countenances, vmder- stood at least the greater part of what I said to them. The service lasted so long that I did not preach as I had intended, fearing that I should weary them. One old woman of ninety years of age, who was confirmed, told Mr. Andrews how she first came to know some of the great truths of religion. Her first conception of the being of a God arose from the following circumstances. She was a slave ; when, walking out with her mistress one fine night, the latter asked her if she knew who made the stars and the moon. She replied, "Yes, the white man." Upon her mistress telling her that it was a far greater Being than man, who lived in the heavens, and who was called God, she was deeply impressed, and from that hour believed in God. Some time after, her instructor had great difficulty in making her understand the nature of the Crucifixion, and the doctrine of the Atonement. She understood, however, and realized the ■whole, on being shown a picture of the Saviour on the Cross. This happened some years ago. Upon these two great truths of natural and revealed religion, she 186 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S had fed, until she liad an opportunity of heing further instructed in the Christian faith. She was one of those baptized a few months since. Her case serves to show that pictures, carefully and cautiously used, may be of much service in the instruction of the Heathen. Mr. Bull had several of the parishioners to meet me in the evening. November 2St/i.—I left the Residency this morning early, on foot, with Mr. Bull. We walked by the coast, and enjoyed much the view of this beautiful bay, with its fine range of mountains in the rear. We took an early breakfast with Mr. Sinclair, and then rode to Red- bourne, where I held service at ten o'clock. Here the congregation, which was between thirty and forty, con- sisted entirely of English emigrants. I preached to them extempore. Several of their children were bap- tized. This village has been much increased since I was here, two years ago. The population, however, will probably never be very large. As the funds for the erection of a stone church are not yet sufficient, Mr. Newdigate is building, at his sole cost, a wooden church, which will serve for a few years ; and, ^hen the church shall be built, can be afterwards used for a school. He has agreed to transfer it immediately to the See. Un- fortunately it came on to rain heavily while we were here, and, in spite of a thick coat which Mr. Newdigate lent me, I had a cold and wet ride to Melville. I slept this evening at Mr, Sutherland's, who had invited seve- ral of the parishioners to meet me. Novemher 2^th. — We had a meeting this morning at eleven o'clock in the school-room at Melville, to take into consideration the affairs of the church. It appeared that at least 150/. were still wanting to complete the building now in the course of erection. Six gentlemen undertook to raise the money by loan. On examining the parish accounts, I found that the weekly offerings fell far short of what thev oujrht to be, and what they VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 187 are in otter places. This, I thinlc, can only be accounted for by the majority of the people, who are recent emi- grants, not understanding that our whole Church work very materially depends upon the free-will offerings of the people. I pressed upon the gentlemen present the importance of making this fact generally known. An address was presented to me at this meeting by the parishioners, congratulating me on my safe arrival at this place after the difficulties and dangers of so long a visitation, expressing their interest in the countries beyond the frontier, their hope that the Church might be able to undertake a work there, and the gratification they felt in hearing that a Mission was about to be com- menced in British Kaffraria. In the afternoon I ex- amined the children in the school, which has only lately been commenced. In the evening, Mr. Andrews had the churchwardens and sidesmen to dinner. It was not till late that four wagons full of coloured people arrived for the services of to-morrow and Sunday. Had they come earlier, I was to have examined the candidates for baptism and confirmation. They outspanued on the green in front of Mr. Andrews' house, and soon lighted their fires and made themselves comfortable. I under- stand there are seventy souls in all. November 'iWi. — I began this day with an examination of the candidates for baptism, which lasted about two hours. With several of these I was very much pleased. They seemed quite in earnest, and Avere well instructed in the faith. They appeared fully to understand the nature of the step they were about to take, the privi- leges of which they were to be made partakers, and the increased responsibilities they were about to incur. One only did I think insufficiently prepared, and re- quiring to have his baptism postponed. At eleven o'clock our service began. I understood there were upwards of one hundred present, a large proportion of whom were coloured people. I baptized fifteen Hot- 188 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S tentot, Fingo, and Mozambique adults. I confirmed seven, three of whom were Europeans. I addressed the candi- dates as simply and plainly as I could for half an hour. The services were partly in Dutch and partly in English. After service I called upon a few of the parishioners, and then rode out to tiffin at " The New Place," where were assembled the chief members of the Rex family. Sunday, December \st. — We had very large congrega- tions this day in our temporary place of worship. Indeed, there was not room for them all. There could not be less than 150 persons at each service. In the morning the communicants were forty-six. In the after- noon, about twenty children, chiefly belonging to the recently baptized converts, were admitted into the fold of Christ. I preached at both services. In the evening I returned with Mr. Duthie in his boat to Belvidere. The tide, however, being low, and the night dark, we grounded several times, and were between three and four hours crossing the lake. We did not get shelter till ten o'clock. Next morning I started on horseback ■with Mr. and Mrs. Andrews for George. We were ac- companied part of the way by Mr. Duthie and Mr. Newdigate. The day being fine, we enjoyed much this beautiful ride. We reached George before seven o'clock. At the Zwart River, Mr. Welby, accompanied by the Rev. H. Cadnall, my chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Baker, and Mr. Dreyer, the churchwarden, met us. I have been much interested with my visit to the Knysna ; great progress has been made during the past year, especially with the coloured people. The churches are i-ising up, and the congregations are good. Up to this time no other body of Christians has been at work in this field. The Church is at present in undisturbed possession of the ground, and is, I trust, doing her work faithfully. All that is required to give permanence and solidity to our system there is a somewhat increased scale of con- tributions towards the support of the ministry. I am VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 189 not sorry to find myself once more under the hospitable roof of Mr. Welby. December ^d. — I spent the morning in writing letters and receiving visitors. Before breakfast I went out with Mr. Welby to inspect the new church, which is to be consecrated on Saturday. It is a well-built Eng- lish structure. The cost has been 1,200/., and it has been with great difficulty that the necessary funds have been raised. Considering the poverty of our people, the inferiority of colonial workmen, and the scarcity of good stone, this church is, I think, a credit to the diocese. It is delightful to see our old English churches repeated in this land. I am glad to find that it is generally admired and appreciated; for this en- courages me to persevere in my efforts to get correct churches built. It requires, indeed, much patience to combat the prejudices, and to endeavour to elevate the tastes, of church builders in South Africa. Very many have not a conception beyond the ordinary shapeless brick building, plastered and whitewashed. As yet, however, I am happy to say, no incorrect building has been commenced, though the inferiority of our materials and workmanship would make one shrink from seeing them subjected to a very critical eye. December Mh. — Examination of candidates for Orders, letter writing, receiving visitors, and returning visits. We have evening service with sermon in the Dutch Church, every day this week. The clergy take it in turn to preach. December ^tli. — Letter writing; examination of candi- dates. Since I have been here, I have had an applica- tion from Mr. Niepoth, voor-lezer of the Dutch Church, and missionary to the heathen, to be received into the communion of the English Church. Mr. Niepoth in- forms me that he has been for eleven years teacher of the coloured people, that he has a congregation of 300 souls, that he has long been dissatisfied with his own 190 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S Church, believes in episcopacy, and approves highly of our services. He states his ground of dissatisfaction ■with the Dutch Church to be their neglect of the coloured people, and their unwillingness to admit them to Church privileges. They are not allowed to commu- nicate with the white people, or to be confirmed at the same time; many of their children remain unbaptized, and they arc refused burial in the Dutch Church ground. This application has been totally vuiexpected both by Mr. Welby and myself. Upon Mr. Niepoth's first an- nouncement of his desire, I declined giving any answer, and informed him that I must take time to consider the course which I might feel it right to pursue. Before seeing him again, I have made full inquiries both of Mr. Welby and others, as to Mr. Niepoth's character and usefulness, and have had such satisfactory replies to my queries, and such willing testimony to his zeal and piety, from various quarters, that I have informed Mr. Niepoth that, if he seeks communion with the Church, I shall not feel at liberty to repel him, and that I shall be prepared to sanction his continuance in the office of Instructor to the Heathen. It appears that Mr. Niepoth has had doubts in bis mind for some time, and resolved not to allow me to leave the place without stating his views and wishes to me. His congregation, he tells me, are equally desirous with himself to be re- ceived into the communion of the Church, and have been urging the matter upon him.' (1) Within a few days of Mr. Niepoth's reception into tlie communion of the Church, 100 of his congregation, already baptized, applied to be allowed to sign our Declaration of Jlembership : " I do declare that I am a member of the Church in tlie Diocese of Capetown, in communion with the United Church of England and Ireland, and that I will conform to the doctrine and discipline of the said Church." Besides these, there are about 200 catechumens and children under instruction. Our new church is already nearly full : and the services of the coloured people are in Dutch. I have authorized the use of a selcctioii'dtoin the Liturgy. There is no authority for this. Convocation alone could sanction it. As oar missions extend, the question of religious services becomes im- I VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 191 December ^tli. — The greater part of the day has been occupied with a vica voce examination of the candidates for Orders. I have been able to accept of them all. The Rev. W. Andrews and the Rev. J. Baker will be admitted to the order of priests, and Mr. Henrey to that of deacon. The latter will have no licence to preach, but will read homilies. It is my intention to have a non-preaching body of deacons in this diocese, and to keep the order as much as possible to the duties pre- scribed for it in the Ordinal. The examination for deacons' orders is consequently a very diflerent one from that required for priests. There is nothing to pre- vent a deacon being advanced to the priesthood, if his qualification should prove sufficient ; but in many cases men admitted to the diaconate, will, in all probabilitj'^, not be able to pass the examination for the higher degree in the ministry of Christ. This evening we had a very large congregation in the Dutch church. Being the last time that the building will be used by us; many of the Dutch came to the service. Mr. Welby preached a very impressive sermon, and expressed for himself and his congregation, very feelingly, the obliga- tions they had been under to the Dutch community. Saturday, Dec. 7th. — This morning our new church was consecrated. It was crowded to excess, there being 250 present in a building calculated to contain only 200. The whole service was a highly devotional one, a great por- tion of the congregation kneeling, and making the responses very audibly. The singing too was very good, the congregation joining in it. The churchyard, which, in this instance, is around the church, was also consecrated. In the afternoon we had prayers at three o'clock, after which I instituted Mr. Welby to the Arch- deaconry of George. This Archdeaconry will consist portant. The uneducated natives would be quite incapable of appre- ciating our vfhole service. A selection like that which the Methodists use in their missions in this diocese is best suited to new converts. I 192 BISHOP OF CAPETOW-N's of tlie districts of George, Swellendam, and Beaufort; and include the parishes of the Knysna, Plettenburg Bay, Beaufort, Riversdale, Swellendam, Mossel Bay, Schoonbergr, &c. ; but Avork is opening out so rapidly here, that I felt it right to erect this central part of the colony into an Archdeaconry, and I am very fortu- nate in being able to appoint one so qualified in every way for the office as Mr. Welby has proved himself to be. The archdeaconry still is, in point of extent, equal to several European dioceses. Mr. Welby hopes to be able to make arrangements with a clergyman who is coming out from England to act as his assistant, and to take charge of the parish uhile he is absent on visita- tion, which in his case will probably be several times a-year. In the evening I had a meeting of the parishioners in the public offices, Mr. Welby having expressed a desire that I should meet the lay members of the Church, in this the only possible way, during my stay. I readily consented to do so; being anxious that the Church at large should regard the Bishop as havinir a direct relation to them, and not merely as the overseer of the Clergy, and being desirous of interesting all in the work of the Church throughout the diocese. I there- fore gave them some account of the state and progress of our work from St. Helena to Natal. On this occasion the parishioners presented the fol- lowing address, which I insert here, because it was got up entirely by the laity without the knowledge of their pastor, and is, I think, full of promise, as sho\ving that there exists a deeper interest in things spiritual than would probably have been felt a year ago, and provin"- that the parishioners here at least are beginning to feel, with relation to other portions of the diocese, that they are members of the same body ; — if one member suffer, all suffering with it; or, if one be honoured, all rejoicin'^ with it. It contains also, which to me is the most VISITATION JOURXAL, 1S50. "19'3 cbeering part of the whole, the recognition of ourduty as a Church towards the heathen, and expresses a de- sire to see the work begun. " To THE Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Capetown : — " We, the undersigned members of the English Church, beg to congratulate your Lordship on your safe arrival at George, after a very toilsome journey to the most distant parts of this extensive diocese. We are thank- ful to be enabled to state that, since your Lordship's last visitation, a goodly edifice has been erected for Divine worship, in which we, and our posterity for ages to come, may hear the joyful sounds of the Gospel; and, while we duly appreciate the inestimable privilege thus afforded to us, we think it our duty to tender to your Lordship the sincere expression of our gratitude for the great interest you have shov.n in our spiritual welfare, and for the seasonable assistance you have af- forded us towards completing the House of God. " In whatever direction we turn, we see churches in the course of erection, and pious ministers dispensing the ordinances of religion, signs which lead us to hope that the branch of the Church of Christ to which we belong is taking deep root in the land, and that our hitherto neglected brethren and countrymen, who have been so long scattered throughout this wide-spread territory, as sheep without a shepherd, are now, blessed be God, being gathered within the fold. For them, and for ourselves, we see a lively interest, and an earnest zeal, manifested by your Lordship, in a degree which we could hardly expect in a diocese so remote from our father-land ; and which prompts us to hope and pray tliat your Lordship may be long spared to labour in this portion of the vineyard, to extend the Redeemer's kingdom far and wide over the dark continent, that ' Ethiopia may soon stretch out her hands unto God.' o 194 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S " We trust that your Lordship may be blessed with health and strength of body, with vigour of mind, and with a large measure of the Divine grace to sup- port you, comfort you, and direct you, in the discharge of the duties of your high office, to the honour and glory of God, and the good of souls." The Address was signed by upwards of fifty members of the congregation. Sunday, Dec. 8//1. — This day I ordained two priests and a deacon, the Archdeacon and the Rev. II. Badnall assisting. I preached on the occasion ; the congregation was very large ; the communicants were about thirty- five in number : the offerings on this day and yesterday amounted to about ,31/. After evening prayer, I con- firmed eighteen candidates, who were all very serious in their deportment. The Archdeacon said they were the most satisfactory set of candidates he had ever pre- sented. Amongst them, as amongst the communicants, there were several coloured people. One poor black boy had Avalked from Mossel Bay, near forty miles, to be confirmed. When residing about fifteen miles from this town, he had walked in every Sunday morning to attend the Archdeacon's Sunday-school, and had, after long preparation, been baptized by him. Another of our candidates was a convert from Romanism. I ad- dressed them for some time in a plain manner. The congregation was again very large. I preached on the subject of missions. In the course of the day I looked into the Sunday-school, and was glad to find it much increased, and the white and coloured children taught in the same class. There w ere nearly sixty present. December dlli. — We had morning prayer at seven o'clock; and a congregation of between sixty and seventy. We had full service in the evening, when jMr. Badnall preached. There was again an excellent congregation. The ne\\s from the frontier becomes more alarming. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 195 Sir H. Smith, who had returned to Capetown, having terrified, as he had imagined, the Kafirs, has again sailed for East London in H. M. Steamer, Hermes, accompanied by 400 men of the 73d regiment from Capetown, and some artillery. God grant that we may yet be spared another war. This land, however, has of late done much to provoke, and is apparently now en- during, His judgments. In the Eastern Province during this year there has been almost a plague of locusts. Farmers have told me that for very many years there have not been seen so many. Then there has been a drought more severe than has been known for years, so that the cattle have perished, and the fruits of the earth been destroyed. In the west, during the same period, there has been almost a deluge of rain ; and now the fearful scourge of rust is threatening the crops of wheat throughout the country. The depredations on the part of servants and others on the sheep farmers have been on a larger scale, and under more irritating circumstances than ever; and now there is every pro- spect of another fearful war with a savage people, who, if permitted to burst into the colony, will probably in a few days sweep off the herds and flocks of the colonists, and lay waste the whole country, burning the houses, and destroying the defenceless people. Would that the people of the land did but recognise God's chastening hand, and humble themselves before him for their sins. In the afternoon I drove out to the new and rising village of Blanco, to inspect some pieces of land which have been given by private individuals to the Church. The Archdeacon has held a monthly service here, and has a congregation of about forty. He contemplates erecting a little oratory, or chancel of a future church, towards which about 100/. have been already con- tributed. 'Tuesday, lOth. — My visitation at George has been full of interest. Great progress has been made in many 196 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S ways during the past year. The parishioners take an increasing interest in the Church's work; and there is, I trust, a gradual growth in grace and holiness, at least in some. I was much pleased with the demeanour of all who on this occasion publicly confessed Christ before men, and with the interest taken in them, and especially in the coloured candidates, by the older members of the Church. There is evidently a good work going on in this parish in the souls of the people, and, indeed, it could scarce be otherwise under the ministry of such a man as the Archdeacon, who is singularly endowed with gifts and graces for the work to which he is called. We left after breakfast for Riversdale. Mr. Badnall accompanied me in my cart, and I was glad once more, after so long a separation, to have free and uni-estrained intercourse with him. "We slept at Jan Meyer's, one of the most wealthy and intelligent Dutch farmers in the country. He had twice before invited me to come and stay Avith him. Next morning he furnished me with a fresh span of horses for an hour or two, while mine were driven forward. After a long day's journey through a country I have passed over several times and have described before, we reached Riversdale. I took up my quarters with Mr. Hudson, but dined with my excellent friend. Captain Rainier, the magistrate of the place, who holds service twice every Sunday for the English con- gi-egation, of whom there are upwards of sixty. Thursdai/, \2th. — Visited some of the villagers in the morning, and examined three candidates, whom Captain Rainier had been preparing for confirmation. I lound them all well instructed, and apparently much in earnest. After an early dinner we went with Mr. Borcherds, the amiable Dutch minister, to inspect a site which he lias ollered to give for an English church. We had service at seven o'clock in the evening. There was one child for baptism; three were confirmed. I addressed the candidates, and also preached. Our service lasted till VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 197 past nine o'clock, and there were upwards of fifty pre- sent. We ought to have a clergyman here, but, imless my funds become greatly increased, I see no prospect of my being able to appoint one. Friday, \Zth. — A long and warm day's journey to Swellendam, through a country which I now travel over for the fifth time since my arrival in the diocese. We intended to have slept at a farm about three hours short of Swellendam ; but the farmer could not accom- modate us; we therefore pushed on, and arrived at Mr. Baker's about ten o'clock, having accomplished a journey of upwards of sixty miles. My horses did not seem at all tired. Mr. Baker was still out in the parish preparing the candidates for confirmation. The next day was spent almost exclusively in receiving visitors and writing letters. On Sinidaij I preached in the morning in the school- room, and afterwards administered the Holy Commu- nion to twenty-five persons. The congregation was good, and filled the room. In the evening I confirmed eight candidates, of whom three had been Wesleyans, and one a Romanist. Mr. Badnall preached. There was a very full congregation, and the candidates, as is almost always the case, seemed to feel deeply. On Monday we held a meeting of the Church Building Committee, which, after a long conversation, was ad- journed till the next day. We had some difficulty in fixing upon a suitable site, and it was found that the funds were far from sufficient to complete the church, there not being more than 600/. in hand ; and a very simple building costing not less than 1,000/. At our meeting on Tuesday the site was determined upon, and it was decided that the plans I had furnished should be adopted, and the building be proceeded with. On the evening of this day, being the last of my stay in the village, I met the parishioners in the school-room, and aimounced to them the course which had been decided 198 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S upon. I took this opportunity of explaining my views and plans with reference to the future missionary ope- rations of our Church, and endeavouring to excite an interest in them. I gave, at the same time, u general view of the state and progress of the Church throughout the diocese. I think that a decided improvement has taken place in this parish since my visitation last year. The con- gregations have increased; Mr. and Mrs. Baker are evidently both much respected by the parishioners, and there is a determination on the part of some to meet difficulties, and to bring the church to its completion. There are, however, some peculiar circumstances con- nected with this parish that have in some degree im- peded the progress of our work. Efforts have been made, by those who are not of us, to weaken the hold of the Church upon the minds of her members. Though some have been disturbed and distressed thereby, none have been led astray, and it will, I trust, be seen here, as elsewhere, that unkind and unjust attempts to mar the Church's work tend only in the end to strengthen it. A Romish priest has arrived in this village since my last visitation. He has no congregation. There are now, besides him, a Dutch and English minister to a popula- tion of about 2,000 souls. Wechieschii/. — Started at six o'clock this morning. I sent my own horses on four hours last night, Mr. Barry having kindly lent me his for the first stage. By this means I was enabled to reach Captain Rainier's in good time. We stopped at several houses in the way for a short time. At Lindis I examined three candidates for confirmation from amongst the Heathen. They had been baptized a short time before by Mr. Sandberg, Minister of Caledon, who has since prepared them for confirmation. Mr. Sandberg met me on the road at IMr. Vigne's, who has several children to be confirmed. As this is the fifth time of my passing through this VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 199, country, I attempt no desci'iption of it. The mountains looked, however, more beautiful than ever ; and the country, which is somewhat parched, notwithstanding tbe late rains, more dreary than usual, with its un- broken, monotonous rhinoster bush. Just before leaving Swellendam, my letters from home brought me word that my old friend Mr. Jackson, Bishop Designate of Lyttelton, in New Zealand, had touched at the Cape on his way out, and was a guest of my wife's at Protea. He will have sailed again, I fear, before I can return home. It is a great disappointment to me to have missed him. On Thursday, I left Captain Rainier' s, and made a short day's journey to Colonel Button's, near Caledon. The next day I proceeded to Major Shaw's, stopping a few hours at Caledon in my way to see the clergyman and churchwardens, inspect the church, which is now re- maining in an unfinished state from want of funds, and examine into the proceedings of the Church Building Committee, &c. I find that a good deal of money has been wasted on the building, which might have been completed, or nearly so, with the funds in hand, had they been judiciously expended. Some little irritation had arisen in consequence of my declining to draw for the grant of the Society for Promoting Christian Kuowledge until I saw a prospect of the church being completed. Saturday, Dec. 2\st. — Major Shaw drove me into Cale- don this morning for our meeting. There were assembled in the Court-house most of the neighbouring gentlemen. I received from them an address, signed by 121 pa- rishioners, congratulating me on my safe return, regret- ting the stoppage of the church, and thanking me for the appointment of their minister, of whom they spoke in warm terms. After replying to the address, I laid before them the real state of the affairs of the parish, and pointed out to them the necessity of doing more towards the erection of the church, and the maintenance of the 200 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S ministry. A very good and kindly spirit prevailed. The gentlemen present guaranteed the advancement of 200/. on loan without security, and a fresh subscription ^vas entered into. Upwards of 80/. was subscribed in the room, and several gentlemen undertook to collect through- out the district. I wrote a letter, after the meeting, to the minister and churchwardens, which is to be circu- lated throughout the parish, and the object of which is to make the English inhabitants feel, that if they desire to have a church and clergyman, they must all contri- bute largely towards both objects. Suiidaj/, Tld. — As a considerable number of the pa- rishioners were expected to attend the services this day, I accepted of the offer of the loan of the Dutch church, in lieu of the public offices, which are not large. There was a very considerable congregation both in the morn- ing and afternoon. I preached on both occasions ; we had thirty-two communicants in the morning, and twenty-five candidates for confirmation in the afternoon. In the evening I returned to .Major Shaw's. This will, I believe, be the last public service which I shall hold during the present visitation. God be praised that I have been enabled to go through every duty to which I have been called from the hour I left home, without having ever been hindered by 'sickness ! Would that they had been more efficiently performed ! No one is more deeply conscious than myself of my many defi- ciencies in the services of the sanctuary. Monday, 23f/.— Left Major Shaw's at five o'clock this morning ; called at several English farms during the day. I had intended to have slept at the beautiful little village of Somerset; but, on arriving there at four o'clock, I determined to proceed to Eerste Rivier, which is a distance of nearly sixty miles from where I slept last night. Here I found my dearest wife, who had ridden thus far to meet me, and was on the point of starting again for Somerset. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 201 Tuesday., 2\tli. — We were iu the saddle at six o'clock this morning, and, after an agreeable ride across the flats, reached home by ten o'clock. Here I was per- mitted to meet again my dearest children in health and strength. How shall I be sufficiently thankful to Al- mighty God for His many mercies towards me ! He has most graciously protected me during an anxious and laborious visitation, which has lasted nearly nine months, and during which I have travelled in my cart, on horseback, or on foot, upwards of 4,000 miles, and enabled me to return to my home to find those nearest and dearest to me in perfect health and safety I Stirsum corda ! May each renewed mercy be regarded as a fresh call to dedicate my whole self to Him and His service ! " Let all that is Avithin me praise His holy name ! " It may not be amiss if I record, at the close of this visitation, my views and impressions upon several points which have engaged much of my thoughts, and will be to many matters of some interest. Though I have expressed myself freely, in several places in this Journal, upon passing events, which at the moment aroused my feelings, I have nevertheless upon principle abstained from touching upon many points, which, in my peculiar position, it seemed wise not to discuss. Had I been free to express opinions as a private individual, I should have wished to touch upon topics which, circumstanced as I am, cannot well be noticed. I propose, therefore, in the observations which I am about to make, to confine myself almost exclusively to the present state and futui-e prospects of the Church of this diocese, and only to allude to other extraneous matter as it seems to bear more or less directly upon the object which I have in view. 202 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S EXTENT OF DIOCESE. The Diocese of Capetown consists of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope; the Sovereignty ; Natal; Kaffra- ria; and the island of St. Helena. St. Helena lies at a distance of 1,000 miles from Capetown on one side; Natal at 1,000 miles on the other ; and the whole inter- vening country is included in the diocese. The Cape Colony alone is as large as England, Scotland, and Ire- land. The Sovereignty is equal in extent to England and Wales; Natal to the whole of Greece; and British Kaffraria, with the country beyond it, to Ireland. In point of extent of territory the diocese is, I believe, larger than any other in the world, except Calcutta, containing not less than 250,000 square miles. POPULATION. The population Avithin the diocese cannot be stated with any accuracy ; but, so far as I have been able to ascertain, from inquiries on the spot, of those who are best informed on the subject, and from official documents, it amounts to about 700,000, and, perhaps, 800,000. It may be divided amongst the dillbrent countries or dis- tricts, perhaps in the following proportions. In the colony of the Cape of Good Hope there are up- w ards of 220,000. Of these, rather more than half are coloured. By far the larger portion of the remaining population is of Dutch extraction. In the Sovereignty the population is estimated at nearly 100,000; of whom perhaps 85,000 are coloured. In Natal the population is said to be 125,000 ; of whom 115,000 are Zulus. The popvilation of British Kaffraria is ascertained to be about 80,000. The Tambookies are rated, and pro- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 203 bably over-rated, at 90,000 ; Kreli's tribe at 60,000 ; and the tribes between him and Natal, including Faku's, at 100,000. In point of population this exceeds any of our colonial dioceses, with the exception of the Indian, amongst which I include Ceylon. It has occupied nine months to travel over only a portion of the diocese. It would take a year to visit the whole ; and in order to do so thoroughly, 6,000 miles must be travelled by land or by water. These facts, surely, are sufficient to show the absolute necessity of a speedy subdivision of the diocese. LANGUAGE. The languages chiefly spoken in this diocese are English, Dutch, and Kafir. But, besides these, the Bechuana, Hottentot, Bushman, and others of less note, prevail in some parts. Dutch is of much importance to clergymen ministering within the colony, especially in the western district, as nearly the whole of the coloured people speak that language in a corrupt form. A know- ledge of the Kafir language will be essential to success- ful missionary operations among that people. The whole Kafir race up to Delagoa Bay speak the same language with slight variations. Mr. Appleyard, in his recent grammar, thus characterises it : " The Kafir lan- guage, although at present spoken by a race of people just emerging from barbarism, bears strong internal evidence of having been used, at one time, by those who must have constituted a much more cultivated order of society. Time has probably effected a deterioration in some of its parts, considering in whose possession we find it; yet even now it does not seem to be the legiti- mate property of an uncivilized people." In sound, the language, especially in Natal, reminded me much of the Italian. 204 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S PROGIIESS OF THE CHURCH. There can be no doubt that it lias pleased God, dur- ing the last three years, to bless in .a very remarkable manner the work of the Church in this land. The increase of life within our communion has been observed by all. The addresses presented to me in the course of this visitation are evidences of this. Unhappily our eflPorts to provide for the spiritual wants of our people, and to do the work God has given us to do, have not always been regarded in a Christian spirit by those Avho are not of us. We have been met not unfrequently witli misrepresentation, and bitter opposition; and efforts have been made through the press, and in other ways, to excite the prejudices of the ignorant against the Church. From this wrong spirit most of the foreign missionaries, and, I think I may add, the Wesleyans generally, have been exempt. From some of the ministers of the Dutch Church much kindness and co-operation have been experienced. Independents, Baptists, Romanists, and some other self-constituted societies and sects, have been the most bitter, I am thankful to say that the great body of the clergy have both felt and acted with real charity towai'ds those who differ from us. They have ever sought and desired to live on terms of amity with all who are round about them, and have, I believe, been uniformly courteous to all. Still, I repeat, amidst the jealousy and opposition of others the work has prospered. It is not yet three years since I landed in the colony. There were then sixteen clergy in the diocese. At this moment there are fifty, notwithstanding that three have withdrawn. Several more are expected. It is impossible not to feel anxious about the future maintenance of the extensive work which has been undertaken in this land. There are circumstances peculiar to this colony which render VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 205 the establishment of the Church upon a secure founda- tion singularly difficult. Amongst these we must reckon the distinctions of race and class with all its pre- judices and antipathies. There are three distinct races at least in each village or parish, and there is no drawing towards one another on the part of any. Of these the English are the fewest in number, and they are again broken up by religious divisions. The Churchmen are indeed in most places of the colony more numerous than the dissenters, and many of these latter have already joined our communion. But we are in most places the last in the field, are regarded as intruders, and have lost, through our previous neglect, many valuable members. The scattered nature of our population offers another great difficulty. Our people, few in number as they are, are distributed over a vast extent of country, which, for the most part, is incapable of supporting a dense popu- lation. The critical question for us is. How are we to maintain our ministry for the next few years, until our numbers are increased by immigration, by converts from the heathen, or the return to our communion of such of our members as at present are separate from us ? Our people are generally doing as much as, or more than, I could have expected. Notwithstanding the efforts re- quired to erect their churches, they are coming forward to maintain a standing ministry; but the amount thus raised is wholly inadequate, and will be so for some years to come. The colonial government renders some assistance ; but support from this quarter is likely to be diminished rather than increased in years to come. Under these circumstances we must continue to look to the mother land and mother Church to aid Its. That she disregarded her responsibilities towards this colony for well nigh half a centurj', and thereby made the work more difficult when entered upon in earnest, is an additional reason for pushing it forward Mith unremitting zeal and vigour during the first few 206 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S years. There is good reason to hope, I think, that from year to year each parish will do more and more towards maintaining its own work. But Churchmen, ■who at home have had their spiritual wants supplied thi'ougli the bounty of our forefathers, are slow to learn the lesson that their own offerings are the only endowment to be depended upon here, and many are really not capable of doing much, for the colony is after all a very poor one. The average expenditure of the V/esleyan Society in this land has been 10,000/. a-year for the last ten years. The London Society, (Indepen- dents,) expends, I believe, 6,000/. And other Protest- ant denominations, exclusive of the English Church, make up the total to something little short of 30,000/. a-year. RELIGIOUS BODIES IN SOUTH AFRICA. There arc in South Africa altogether upwards of 200 ministers of religion. Many of these are engaged in missionary operations far beyond the countries which I have visited. Some, indeed, arenot far distant from the great lake discovered by Mr. Oswell, an Indian gentle- man, and Mr. Livingstone of the London Society. The number, indeed, of those Avho are engaged in endeavouring to plant the Gospel amongst the tribes beyond the colony, and to civilize them, is considerable. Unhappily, there is no unity of design in their efforts, nor is there any adequate system of supervision established. They act independently of each other, without much mutual consultation or intercourse. The field, however, is so wide, that it is very rarely that one Society interferes with another. There is ample room for all; and, so far as I have been able to judge, a kindly and brotherly spirit prevails amongst those Christians who dwell in the very midst of the kingdom of darkness. But the fact that there are not less than VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 207 twenty ' different religions in South Africa, cannot but be a subject for anxious consideration to the thoughtful mind which looks forward to the future. PROSPECTS OF THE CHURCH. It would be presumptuous to speak very decidedly as to the future prospects of the Church. The difficulties arising from race and language, will, at least for years to come, stand greatly in the way of its extension. It yet remains to be seen how far these will be overcome. AH that can be said at present is, that the Church ap- pears to be taking deep root in the land, and that a few years more of progress like the three that are past will, under God, establish it firmly. If His Spirit be poured out, as we hope and pray, in enlarged measure on ministers and people, there will be no reason for fear or doubt, and we need be under no anxiety. It is im- possible to tell as yet what effect the changes which are about to take place in our political institutions may have upon the Church. Looking at the spirit and temper of the times, and bearing in mind that repre- sentative institutions will place great political power in the hands of the majority of the population, which is not of British extraction, and has strong prejudices and antipathies, I own I do not look forward to the future with much comfort or confidence. I shall be agreeably surprised if efforts should not be made to Avithdraw Ecclesiastical grants from the Church, though it is to be hoped that under the worst circumstances, vested interests will be respected, and that those who under (1) Church of England; Dutch Church; Roman Catholics; Independ- ents (London Society) ; Wesleyans ; Baptists ; Scotch Establishment ; Free Kirk; United Presbyterian; Moravian; Berlin, Rhenish, and Paris Societies ; Americans ; Swedes ; Lutherans ; single congregations sepa- rated from Lutherans and from Dutch Church ; Apostolic Union ; S. A. Missionary Society ; Church Instruction Society ; and there are besides Jews and Mahommedans. 20S BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S distinct pledges have come out to labour for Christ's cause and truth in the land, thereby sacrificing prefer- ment and prospects at home, uill not be cast adrift without a prospect of support, and incapable, from their sacred profession, of seeking employment and main- tenance through worldly business and occupations. Probably the circumstance that the Dutch and English Church must, in this respect, stand or fall together, may save us from injustice. If thrown on their own re- sources, the former, with all their advantage of numbers, would, I believe, have greater difliculty in maintaining their ministry than we should. Then, again, it seems quite uncertain what effect the war, which, while I write, has just burst out, may have upon our work. It is certain that the whole eastern province will be thei'eby impoverished, and vast numbers of our people be ruined. Indeed they are so already, for their houses are destroyed, and their flocks have perished. They will not, therefore, be able to fulfil their engagements towards the support of their ministers. Should the Home Government decline to pay the expenses of this war, which some think it will, as a just punishment for our violence and rebellious spirit during the last two years, but which it is hoped the generosity of the British Parliament will not determine upon, as it would well-nigh ruin the colony ; — should this unfortunately prove to be the case, 1 do not see how the colony, burdened Avith a heavy debt, m ould be able to maintain its existing establishments. Looking, therefore, at our present position, I feel satisfied that, if the mother Church were to relax her efforts in behalf of her newly planted daughter in this land, it would expose our whole work to imminent pcriL We cannot as yet stand alone. Our work is, however, founded upon right principles, the principles of our Church and Prayer-book ; and I look confidently lor increased fruits from vear to rear. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1S50. 209 MISSION WORK. I have already in the body of my Journal spoken fully on this head, and will, therefore, only here repeat that there is a mighty field before us ; that there arc myriads of souls within this diocese, who have yet to be won to Christ ; and that if we, as a Church, are to go forth in the name of God against the powers of darkness in this land, the means and the men must be furnished from home. Every parish in this diocese will contribute according to its ability ; but the amount so raised will be wholly inadequate for the carrying on of any extensive work. I do earnestly hope that we may not plead in vain for men and means for this special work. The Kafir war just broken out will delay the formation of our mission in Kaffraria, upon which we were just preparing to enter. But the more important field amongst the Zulus in Natal is still open to us. EDUCATION. It may be well that I should say here a few words on the subject of Education. There are not, perhaps, many countries in the world that devote so large a proportion of their revenue towards providing education for their people. Out of a contemplated revenue of 204,161/. for the year 1851, it was intended to have appropriated no less a sum than 7,478/. to this special purpose, which is about the proportion granted in former years. The violent disruption, however, of the legislative council prevented the estimates from being passed. The greater portion of this annual grant is expended in the maintenance of free government schools in the towns and villages of the colony. Each of these is supported at au expense to Government of from 150/. to 300/., or even 350/. There are other schools which P 210 BISHOP OF Capetown's are aided by Government in villages and in the country ; these are supported in pai't by subscriptions, and pay- ments from the children. The mission schools also throughout the colony receive some assistance; and there is a so-called college in Capetown, to which a grant has been made of 400/. a-year. In the schools which are altogether supported by Government, no creeds or catechisms are allowed to be taught, though this rule is not strictly observed. It is a subject of gi-eat regret to many that the liberal intentions of Government have not, from various causes, been of that service to the countrj^, which, had they been more efficiently carried out, they might have been. Though there are several excellent schools in the colony, which have been raised by the exertions and abilities of some very efficient teachers, the Government system of education, now in operation, cannot be considered as that which is best suited to the existing circumstances of the country. The South African College, above alluded to, has long, and very generally, been regarded as almost use- less. I doubt much, whether for some time past it has had ten pupils within its walls who were paying any- thing for their education. Not a few of the schools in the villages of the colony have failed to secure the con- fidence of the inhabitants, and some of them are almost without pupils. Several causes have led to this. The teachers are in some instances most inefficient, and have been, in our late disturbances, amongst the most violent democrats in the colony. The School Commissions possess no powers, and therefore take no interest in the schools. The schools being free, are open to all. Pre- cisely the same education is professedly given in the same school to the children of the chief people in the neighbourhood, as is given to the children of Hottentots and Kafirs. This is by many urged as a grave objection against the schools, and there is force in the objection. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 211 I do not indeed in the least sympathise with the feeling which leads the white man to think it a degradation for his child to be educated with a coloured child; but surely the education required for the children of mer- chants, farmers, and magistrates, is not exactly that which you would give to the Hottentots ; nor is it alto- gether unreasonable that Christian parents should ob- ject to their children being brought into close contact either with the moral or physical contamination which the children of heathen parents almost invariably carry Avith them. Another objection urged against these schools is, that the teachers are allowed to take pay- ments from parents who choose to pay. It is thought that the free children are neglected for these. I have also frequently heard parents complain that their chil- dren, instead of I'eceiving a plain solid education, are taught the bare elements of science. I have often myself been struck with this. As an illustration of my meaning, I select at random from the Blue Book of last year, some extracts from the official returns of Govern- ment schools, to which it will be remembered the chil- dren of the coloured people are admitted, and which are entirely free. "The subjects selected for discussion were the analysis and etymology of words the properties of matter; the nature and iniiu- ence of heat, — the first principles of mechanical science the higher branches of arithmetic." Another discusses " the first principles of statics applied to fluids." Another, " the first principles of physical science, including the properties of matter connected with the subject of motion, the elements of chemis- try," &c. The education of the farmers in the country is in some degree sacrificed to the maintenance of these schools, which are often inferior to schools started in the same place by private individuals, who succeed in maintaining themselves without any Government as- 212 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S sistancc. It would be a great improvement if, for the present system, Avere substituted one which merely aided the inhabitants of any village in the maintenance of their own schools, over which the promoters might exercise a control. This would render the existing schools less costly to Government, and place at their disposal additional funds, for the extension of education in the remoter districts, for which, up to this time, very little has been done. I do not think that there would be any objection to this on the part of the inhabitants of the towns and villages. On the contrary, I am per- suaded that they would rejoice in the alteration. They no longer require an entirely gratuitous education ; and are prepared to contribute something towards their children's instruction. Unless some such arrangement be come to, the country districts cannot be provided ibr ; for the colony cannot, out of its revenue, appro- priate a much larger sum for educational purposes. Nor does it seem reasonable that 200/. or 300/. a-year should be given for the education often of a very limited number of pupils, while extensive neighbour- hoods are left altogether destitute. At present this is the case. In many parts of the country there is no education at all. The inhabitants are growing up in a sad state of ignorance. The usual custom with those who value education is for a farmer to engage a tutor — say for six months, or a year, or longer, to teach his children. They learn to read and write their names, and get up the Catechism of their Church, and there, I fear, their education too often ends. These tutors have been frequently men of bad character, — discharged sol- diers, &c. Some of them, however, are very respectable men ; and an improved class is being educated for the work, through the efforts of the Dutch ministers in Capetown. Of course any alteration in the present Government system of education would have to be carried out VISITATION JOURNAL, I 85 1. 213 gradually, so as not to interfere with the engagements made with existing teachers. We have not been able as yet to do much in the way of education. Our Collegiate school, which has already cost 2,600/., is, indeed, full ; and many more, whom the Principal is obliged to refuse, would avail themselves of the advantages which it offers, if there were funds for the enlargement of the buildings. Grammar schools have also been erected in Capetown and Graham's Town ; and there are a few other Church schools here and there throughout the diocese. There are few things which I am more anxious about, or deem of greater importance, than the erection of suitable college buildings. Till we are able to do this, our most important educational work must be cramped. Had we sufficient room to accommodate double our present number of pupils, the College would, I think, support itself. I subjoin the Appeal which 1 published some time since in behalf of this undertaking/ January \^th, 1851. — I have thought it desirable at the present eventful period, to continue from time to time to place on record facts and circumstances of mo- ment to the colony and the Church. On Christmas-day 1 was again permitted to celebrate the Holy Communion in the cathedral; 170 communi- cated. During the course of the week the following Address was presented to me : — " From the Vestry and Churchwardens of the Cathedral Church, Capetown, and other lav Members of the Church of England. " My Lord, " We, the undersigned members of the Vestry and Churchwardens of the Cathedral Church of St. (I) See Note H, at the end of the volume. 211 BISHOP OF capeto\vn's George, and lay members of the ChurcL of England, resident in Capetown and its neighbourhood, beg to offer our hearty congratulations on your Lordship's safe return to this city after so very long and laborious a visitation throughout the remote divisions of your diocese. We are fully sensible of the deep and earnest devotion ^vith which your Lordship has sought to diffuse the pure spirit of the Gospel amid the destitute por- tions of South Africa, and of the cheerfulness and zeal ■with which you encountered the toil and privation to w hich you have been thus unavoidably exposed ; and •we confidently trust that, in God's appointed time, they vrill be productive of good to those on whose behalf they were undertaken, and that, eventually, the ser- vices, sacraments, and teaching of our venerable Church, may be brought within the reach of the greater part, if not of the whole of her dispersed members in every part of the diocese. " Nor are we less sensible of your Lordship's untiring efforts for the diffusion of true religion in the hearts of the people in this more favoured part of the colony, nor of the manifold benefits we have oiirselves derived from your Lordship's appointment to the See of Capetown. " Without a Bishop for the maintenance of order and discipline, the Church of England at the Cape of Good Hope Avas, for many years, so inadequately provided with a ministry, as to be w holly incompetent to perform the work Avhich lay so w idely scattered around her ; while many of her members, from the want of shepherds to lead them, wandered in pursuit of pasture into other folds. " But, blessed be God, under whose providential care your Lordship has at length been sent to oversee the gathering in of the flocks, brighter hopes have now- dawned upon the Church of South Africa; and we heartily pray that you may long be preserved to provide for her growth and maturity ; that your Lordship may VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 215 long continue to be a blessing to all those whose spi- ritual welfare is witMu the reach of the influence of your conduct and example; and that, hereafter, when you shall be called to render account of your'sacred and solemn mission, you may receive that rich reward which our Heavenly Father has in store for those, who, under the guidance of His Holy Spirit, have laboured faithfully in the discharge of those apostolical duties for which they have been consecrated in His Church here on earth." To this I replied as follows : — " To THE Chairman of St. George's Vestry. " Dear Sir, " I beg to acknowledge the receipt of an Address from the Vestry, Churchwardens, and Lay Members of the Church of England, resident in Capetown and its neighbourhood, which you have been good enough to forward to me, and in which they offer their hearty congratulations on my safe return, after a long and laborious visitation throughout the remote divisions of the diocese. I shall feel obliged by your conveying to the subscribers to the Address my sincere thanks for their kind and cordial welcome, after so long an absence. It has pleased God to bring me back in health and safety, after a visitation which has extended over nearly nine months. May the life which He has spared be devoted more entirely to Him and His service ! " The Address expresses a hope that the day is not far distant when the members of the Church throughout the land will be provided with an adequate supply of the means of grace, within their own communion. Such, I trust, will ere long be the case. " It is, indeed, being gradually accomplished through the zeal of the members of the Church, who in many places have contributed very largely, both towards the 216 BISHOP OF Capetown's erection of churches, and the mjiintenance of their ministers, and who are beginning very generally to feel that their spiritual wants can only be supplied by much exertion and self-denial on their part. " Commending our Avork to the blessing and favour of Almighty God, " I remain, dear Sir, faithfully yours, " R. Capetown." On the following Sunday I preached 'in the cathedral, from Isaiah xxvi. 9 : "When thy judgments are in tlie earth, the inhabitants of the world shall learn righteous- ness." I endeavoured to impress upon the Church my own conviction, — that this land is suffering God's chas- tisement for its sins, and especially for those of the last Two years. I urged particularly the severe drought, which had almost led to a famine in the east; — the plague of locusts, which had visited the country in greater numbers than for the last quarter of a centur}' ; — the unceasing rains in the west, followed by the rust ; — and the war, which seemed to be impending; as proofs that God was visiting us in His wrath. On the last day of the year we had full service in the cathedral in the evenmg, and again on the morning of the new year, — the Feast of the Circumcision, w hen seventy partook of the Lord's Supper. IMr. Newman preached on both occasions. As we came out of church we were informed that the Kafirs had commenced the Avar. The probability of this must have occurred to most minds ; but men Avere sanguine to the last, that it would be staved otT, at least for the present. The im- mediate effect Avas, that our troops, 2, .000 in number, Avere shut up in their forts, and their communication A\ith each other and Avith the colony Avas cut off. The Governor himself, with Colonel Mackinnon, Avas cooped up in Fort Cox. He did not, howevei-, remain there long; but, having 250 Cape Corps Avilh him, and but VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 2l7 little forage, he cut his way through the enemy to King William's Town, distant about twenty-four miles. Col. Somerset, who attempted to open a communication with the Governor, was obliged to retreat with the loss of about thirty men. The Kafir Hermanns, located at the Blinkwater, within the colony, has taken part with the enemy, and is now ravaging the Winterberg, carrying fire and sword throughout the country. Even the Hot- tentots of the Kat River settlement are said to be dis- affected ; and there is some reason to fear that Kreli, and the Taraboukie chiefs, are preparing to ravage the frontier. Should this be the case, the odds against us will be fearful. Fort Beaufort and Alice have each been attacked, but the enemy has been repulsed from both by the inhabit- ants aided by a few soldiers. The military villages of Auckland, Woburn, and Joannasburg, have been de- stroyed, and the male inhabitants massacred. At Graham's Town there are no troops. The inhabitants, who are expecting to be attacked, are constantly under arms. Straggling bodies of Kafirs wander over the whole open country. Houses and individuals have been attacked in various directions ; the houses have been burnt, and the inmates, in some instances, murdered. Great efforts are being made to raise levies. These consist almost exclusively of Hottentots from the Mis- ■ sionary Institutions (chiefly Moravian) in the west, and of Fingoes from the frontier. The English do not appear to volunteer in great numbers, and the Dutch scarce at all. OvL Thursday, the 2cl oi Januari/, a synodical meeting of the Clergy of the Rural Deanery of Capetown was held at Protea ; nineteen clergy were present, a larger number than had ever met before in the diocese. I gave them some account of my visitation, and of the state of the diocese ; laid befor.e them the Zulu Missionscheme, w hich met with their entire approbation ; and consulted 218 BISHOP OF capetoavn's them about the division of the diocese, which they ap- peared to think as necessary as their more distant brethren do. I also informed them of the circumstances Avhich seemed to require my return to England, and invited their opinion. They concurred with me in the necessity of the step, and expressed themselves very kindly on the subject. They unanimously agreed to the proposal that, under our present chastisement, a day should be appointed for special humiliation before God, ■with prayer and fasting, and that we should seek the co-operation of the Dutch Church in the matter. A Ser- vice has since been prepared, and the Governor has recommicnded the day to be observed by all Christians in the colony. Jammrr/'l^tli. — The Archdeacon of Graham's Town has had a very merciful escape. He walked into Graham's Town the very day the war broke out, which was also the day of my return home. He had been oiit on visitation six vreeks, during which he had accomplished 800 miles on foot. For the last three weeks, in his way down from Bloemfontein, he had been in the part of the country most exposed to invasion. Had he been a week later he would have been in imminent peril. A merciful I'rovidence, however, watched over him. Several of the clergy are, I grieve to say, in much danger. Mr. and Mrs. Beaver have sustained two severe attacks in Alice from the Kafirs; Fort Beaufort, where Mr. and Mrs. Wilshere reside, has been also twice attacked ; on the second occasion the chief Hermanns was killed, fighting in the streets. Mr. Willson, at Post Relief, is, perhaps, in the most perilous situation. The place has been repeatedly attacked by the Hottentots, who have now, throughout the whole of the east, joined in the rebel- lion ; it has only a few farmers to defend it, and all com- munication with it has been cut olT. Mr. ^^'atcrs and Mr. Henchman are both in laagers in their respective parishes. Not one clergyman, however, has yet aban- VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 219 doned his post. Mr. Boon, catechist at the Mancazana, has indeed been compelled to fly, and his residence, and his church, the latter only just freed from debt, have, I believe, been burnt. March 2QtIi. — The war still drags on, without much prospect of a speedy conclusion. Through Mr. Mon- tagu's indefatigable exertions, 3,000 newly raised leA^es, chiefly Hottentots, have been sent up to the Governor. These have been employed on frequent patrols ; but no great blow has yet been struck. The Kafirs fight boldly, hand to hand, with the troops, and the Hottentots, in their present undisciplined state, seem hardly a match for them. The Fingoes, on all occasions, fight with great courage. Having been formerly slaves to the Kafirs they hate their ancient masters with a deadly hatred. The addition to the Governor's force has enabled him to send 400 European levies to Major-General So- merset, who proceeded Avith these to the Kat River settlement, where he was joined by bodies of Dutch and English volunteers. A combined attack was made upon the Hottentots, who had taken possession of Fort Armstrong, a very strong post. The post was taken after a severe fight, and in the course of the next few days the rebellion was apparently put down. Several himdred prisoners have been taken, many thousand sheep and oxen, and seventy wagons of goods of all kinds, — the spoils of the neighbouring farms, watches, jewellery, books, dresses, scientific instruments. This is the state of things up to the present time. The Gaika Kafirs in the Amatola, not less than 40,000 in number, still remain to be conquered, and such of the Tam- bookies as have engaged in the war. The inhabitants of the eastern province are crying out for a commission to inquire into the causes of the Hot- tentot rebellion. It is laid by them very freely at the door of the Missionaries of the London and Glasgow Societies. The whole subject is at present involved in 220 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S much mystery; but I cannot for an instant believe that any Missionaries would deliberately encourage rebellion, though I can easily understand that their whole system and teaching might lead to it. There is certainly a very great contrast in the conduct of the coloured races who are under tlie training of Moravians and Wesleyans, when compared with those who are under the London and Scotch Societies. This is so remarkable, that it has been observed by all who are acquainted with the state of things in the country. I feci it right to express here my firm conviction that neither the present Kafir war, nor the rebellion of the Hottentots, has been brought about by any oppression on the part of the Government of this country. There are features in our border policy of which I cannot ap- prove ; but our Government of British KafFraria has been wise, just, and humane. We have, it is true, held military possession of the country ; it was essential to our own safety that we should; but we have not inter- fered with the government of the chiefs more than was absolutely necessary ; and, when we have interfered, it has been to protect the oppressed. The real causes which have led to the present war Avith the Kafirs are, — 1st, that under the system which was established, the chiefs' power was gradually fading away ; — 2d, cattle stealing was put a stop to by a very efficient police ; — 3d, the distress consequent upon the severe drought of last year ; — and 4th, A knowledge of our internal divisions, and the alienation of feelings between the white and coloured races, and between the English and the Dutch. For the Hottentot rebellion there is no exoise what- ever. The rebels of the Kat River had had one of the finest parts of the country given them to live on ; Govern- ment dealt most liberally with them. Sobriety and industry would have enabled them to take their place among the landed proprietors of the country, 'i'hat the VISITATION JOURNAL, 1851. 221 white man has failed in his duty to the coloured races in South Africa, — the Christian to the Heathen, I do not deny; I feel it to be a great reproach. But what- ever may be the amount of his short-coming in this respect, it would be a grievous wrong to assign it as a justification of the rebellion which has spread over so large a portion of the eastern province. NOTES. Note A.— Page ]3S. Nearly all the inhabitants of tliis part of the country have been obliged to leave their farms since tlie breaking out of the present war. A Laager, or encampment, has been formed at Sidbury, and Mr. Henchman still continues at his post, which is far from secure. Note 15. — Page H4. Just tliree months after this the war actually broke out. Colonel Somerset and myself heard the first rumours of it at Fort Brown on the day we left Graham's Town. As we rode along the Fish River these riunours increased. When Colonel Somerset arrived at Fort Beaufort he sent an e.\press to Colonel Mackinnon on the subject. Alice lias been twice attacked by large bodies of Kalirs. Mr. Beaver has remained at his post the whole time. Note C— Page 148. Since the coinnu'nccinent of the war the church has been used as a place of defence. Fort Beaufort has been attacked twice by the Blinkwater rebels ; at the second attack the chief Hennanus met his death fighting in the streets. Mr. Wilshere lias remained at his post the whole time. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 223 Note D.— Page 149. Ths Post has since been burnt down by t!ie rebel Hottentots, and ilie liitle church, I believe, destroyed. ]\Ir. Boon escaped on horseback to Cradock, leaving his little ^H'operiy in books and furniture behind him. Note E.— Page 152. Mr. Willson has been, since the breaking out of the viar, in the most dangerous and distressing position of any of the clergy on the frontier. He has been cooped up in this little post, with the families of the neighbouring farmers, whose houses have been burned, and their crops destroyed, and cattle driven off' by the rebel Hottentots. All commuuicatioii with the post lias been cut off during the greater part of the last two months ; it has been repeatedly attacked by the enemy. Note F. — Page 155. The Institution has been burned down since the war com- menced. The Hottentots received the enemy with open arms. The brethren escaped to AVhittlesea, which place has been most bravely defended by a handful of men. Had iliis place fallen, the whole of the Cradock district would have been laid waste. Note G. — Page 156. Kama has proved faithful again in this new war, and has done good service with his tribe. Note H.— Page 213. " Diocesan Collegiate School. "A year has now passed since the Bishop opened a Diocesan Collegiate School at Protea, the first principle of which was, that it should be conducted strictly on the pr;ncij;les of the 224 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN S Englisli Church ; and tlioiigh this period is not long enough to , show the whole working oi' such a school, yet, considering the undertaking in the lowest point of view, as an experiment^ the | following conclusions seem to be already established. , ; " 1. That the want of such a school in the diocese was^felt, , and thai this want has now been in some measure supplied. j This is plain from the fact that the numbers, whicli were siiiall , at first, have been steadily increasing, so that the school, tho^ gh j of late much enlarged, is now all but full. I " 2. That a further increase of accommodation is necessary, j as several applications for admission at no very distant ijaie I have been already made, and there are no means at present of j receiving more boys. J " 3. Tliat the time is now arrived for bringing the mat er | before those who will as a class receive the greatest benefit | from the complete success of the undertaking, since it is upon ' their co-operation that so desirable a result in great measure | depends. The attention, therefore, of those who have it in i their power to aid in the full establishment of the College is ! invited to the following statement : — " The Bishop finding upon his arrival no system of education for the youth of the upper classes possessing their confidence, and considering that the rich as well as the poor members (.f the Church were committed to his spiritual charge, determined to do what lay in his power to remove a defect so prejudicial to the whole body of the Church as the want of sound education for those, whose position calls upon them to be the guides and leaders of society. As soon, therefore, as the means were at his disposal, he opened a school, partly under his own roof ; and, when an opportunity offered, purchased an estate, with a | house, &c. upon it, calculated to receive a larger number than could be accommodated in his own house. It must be remem- | bered that in all this the Bishop alone has made any venture; j he alone lias borne the heavy expenses necessarily attending the commencement of such an undertaking, out of the funds raised in England for the special benefit oi the diocese. While i his plans were only intentions, while the work wore the form j of an untried experiment, while it was quite unct rtain how ] many parents would desire such an education for their sons, he did not ask any assistance from those for whose special benefit the venture was made. It is only now, when these , preliminary questions have been satisfactorily disposed of, that he asks those ])rincipally interested to meet in a tair and liberal - spirit the sacrifices that have been made in their behalf. It is impossible for him to do all that he wishes to see done, unless funds are supplied for carrying out his further plans. VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 225 " The fund for the diocese, out of which these expenses have been borne, was raised not so much by the superfluous wealth of the rich, as by the self-denying offerings of the middle and lov.er classes, who felt bound to give something out of their jjoverty for the spread of Christ's kingdom in South Africa. It has been raised for religious purposes, and it is only because the religious interests of the whole community depend so much )n education, that the Bishop has felt justified in bestowing so large a portion of it in this manner. The same considerations apply to the funds of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, out of which the noble grant of 2,000i. has been made for the promotion of education in this diocese. Surely then, there is a call for some sacrifice on the part of those who 'will especially benefit by the success of the undertaking. They cannot, it may be, do all that is required for the founding of such an Institution. They cannot furnish such buildings and endowments as single men at home have furnished in past years ; but they may give greater efficiency to the aid that is offered them. An appeal has been made to the mother coun- try for funds for this special purpose ; no answers have yet been received from England to this appeal, and the aid to be ex- pected from that quarter may depend in great measure upon the exertions of the colonists for themselves. One diocese, constituted at the same time with this, has already found a benefactor within itself, who has devoted nearly 3,000Z. to the Diocesan College. The work which has begun here may go on, on its present limited scale, and be doing real benefit, but it cannot offer the advantages to the public generally which a larger institution would do. It remains yet to be decided, whether funds can be raised for it here and in England, or whether its extension must be put off for an indefinite time. " The first great want is that of larger and better buildings. The best use has, it is believed, been made of the present build- ings ; but there must always be inconveniences in temporary arrangements, variously affecting the discipline of the school, the comforts of the boys, and the domestic economy of the household. On this ground, then, it does not seem advisable to attempt the enlargement of the present buildings, which would, lead to additional inconvenience, without proportional advan- tages : but rather to begin some buildings especially adapted to the purpose. Indeed the present buildings are not such as could be regarded as permanent. They are as unlikely to re- main for the benefit of future generations, as they are inadequate to meet even present necessities. In endeavouring to found, an Institution like that now contemplated, it is needful to look beyond the present moment, and to aim at producing that Q 226 BISHOP OF CAPETOWN'S which shall he enduring, and of which future generations need not be ashamed. " When suitable buildings are erected, some endowments will still be required, in order to give due stability and permanence to the work. These may be of gradual growth, but the Insti- tution cannot be regarded as in a secure and satisfactory con- dition until it is possessed of funds sufficient to maintain its Principal and Tutors, and to assist in the education of poor scholars. The need of exhibitions for this latter purpose will be more felt, when, as it is hoped, may ere long be the case, an upper department of the College shall be opened, in which a course of education like that of the English Universities shall be carried on. Such assistance is indispensable, when young men of good character, but small means, are anxious to avail themselves of the complete course of education; and a lengtli- ened course of education, while it is the best preparation' for any station in life, will be especially requisite for those of the stu- dents who are designed for the ministry of the Church. " It must be remembered, however, that the present appeal is made exclusively for funds for the erection of adequate Colle- giate buildings. It would not have been made at this particular moment, had it not been that the Bishop is about to leave home on visitation, and will not in all probability return till the end of the year, before which period it may be advisable to com- mence the new buildings. " In the confident hope, then, that some may be found who appreciate the efforts that have been made, and are ready to come forward to complete the good work v.hich has been begun, the Bishop would invite all who take any interest in the Insti- tution to communicate with the Reverend the Principal on the subject, and in conjunction with him to adopt measures for raising funds, that so increased accommodation may be pro- vided, as soon as possible, for those who must otherwise be ex- cluded from the advantages which it is his earnest wish to extend to a much larger number than can be at present received into the College. " R. Capltown." "Protea, March 25, 1850." The following extract from a circular sent home for publica- tion at the end of 1819, and published in the Colonial Church Chronicle for January, 1850, will serve to make the appeal given above more intelligible : — "The College is intended to embrace an upper and a lower department. Pupils will be received into the lower depart- ment at the age of ten years, and they may be allowed to VISITATION JOURNAL, 1850. 227 remain there till the age of eighteen. The upper department will receive students at the age of seventeen or eighteen, if they are otherwise duly qualified ; and there will be some standard of qualification, answering to the examination for matriculation at the English Universities. The education given will be such as to fit the pupils for secular employments and professions as well as for the ministry of the Church. It is proposed that the College should be governed by a body of statutes similar to those by which our ancient institutions in the mother country are ruled. The Bishop will be Visitor. There will be a Prin- cipal, and, it is hoped, at no time fewer than three Fellows and Tutors, of whom one will be Vice-Principal. The Principal will be appointed by the Bishop ; the other offices in the Col- lege will be filled up by the Society itself, subject, to the approval of the Bishop, as soon as it is sufficiently matured to supply duly qualified candidates for them. In the mean time, the appointments to these offices also will rest with the Bishop." "The Bishop would earnestly commend to the whole body of the Church in England, this attempt at founding an Institution in connexion with the daughter Church at the Cape, in the firm belief that it may hereafter become a great engine for the extension of the pure faith of Christ throughout that part of the vast African continent, by the education of a body of devoted clergy and a pious and intelligent laity. "Protea, September 10, 1849." THE END. R.CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to tfie library from which it was borrowed. 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