I ^.'^.■;■:;••^^; i ■;??:/■; . .^. • . ■ ■ : H^! I'; ' -'^ .'f-iw-;':'. ^■•.•'' ^:.^•;:^'•'■'^;/•■ Cml ^rw^^c.y^ ^ ^3R.\KY k 't^-^ ^ NATIVE OF DOURCA STRAIT. NEW GUINEA. ^ \ I UNW1^^='^'^^ 7 Etliiioarapliii'al Librai ri.iio-a JdaWrf hA JlrrOu^i y.oiffm ,i X,w YrrJ, : H. liaM^^r iS.i-j THE NATIVE RACES OF THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. •PAPUANS BY GEORGE WINDSOR EARL M.R.A.S. AUTHOR OF THE "ZASTEEN SEAS," &C. WITH i'lVJsl COLOTJBED PLATES AND TWO MAPS. "Mirantur hominea altitudmea montium, ingentes fluctua marls, altissimos lapsus fluminum et oceani ambitum et gyros siderum — et relinquunt seipsos, nee mirantur." — St. Acgustin. LONDON HIPPOLYTE BAILLIERE 219 REGENT STREET, AND 290 BEOADWAY NEW YORK U.S. PARIS J. B. BAILLIERE RUE HAUTEFEUILLE. MADRID BAILLY BAILLIERE CALLE DEL PRINCIPE. 1853. ^Sj? ij LONDON: Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street. ^ PREFACE. The study of the Human Race^ in its various phases, has become greatly extended since the late Dr. Prichard, the father of Ethnographical Science in this country, commenced his researches into the physical history of mankind. The iaaugural essay of the young physician in the year 1808, was expanded into a large volume in 1813, and further researches, prosecuted without inter- mission during a long and active professional hfe, ex- tended the work until it became one of the most valuable contributions to modern scientific literature of which anv nation can boast. The importance of the science which the learned physiologist has the merit of intro- ducing to this country, is daily becoming more appre- ciated. The archaeologist finds in it a clue to mysteries connected ^vith extinct nations, such as those which have been buried for ages under the sands of Egypt, Persia, or Central America ; the philanthropist feels his sjTnpathies enlarged as the habits and characteristics of untutored races become developed to his view ; and even the states- man considers it necessaiy to refer to the pages of the ethnographer, that he may learn how collisions with the IV PREFACE. native races of distant possessions, which but too often lead to desolating and expensive wars, may be best avoided; — and although it is not intended at present to enter very deeply into the subject of philology, students of that important branch of Ethnographical Science may tind their labours materially lightened by the issue of a series, to which they can refer for in- formation respecting the geographical position, and social peculiarities, of tribes whose dialects may be under examination. AUGUST 25, 1853. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. Peculiarity of the Hair — Features — Stature and Proportions — Modes of Personal Disfigurement — Physical and Mental Capacity — Character and Disposition — Results of Foreign Intercourse on the ^VlId Tribes ....... 1 CHAPTER II. >'EW GUINEA. SOUTH COAST. Papuan Character of the New Guinea Tribes — Geogi-aphical Sketch of the Island — Visits of Early Voyagers — Dutch Expedition of 1S2S — Interview with Natives of Dourga Strait — Hostile Encounter — Cha- racteristics of the Dourga Tribe — Weapons and Ornaments — Agility in Chmbing Trees — Mangrove Thickets — Habitations — Papuans and Australians — Expedition of Lieutenant Kool to Dourga Strait in 1835 — Interview with a large tribe of Frederick-Henry Island . 8 VI CONTEXTS. CHAPTER III. NEW GUINEA. SOUTH-WEST COAST. Captain Cook's Interview with the Papuans in 1770 — Lieutenant KolfF's Visit to the same spot in 1828 — His Interview with the Natives — Ichthyosis — Singular Practice of Ejecting a Sraoke-like Material from Bamboo Tubes — Lieutenant Modera's Accoiint of the Practice — Dr. Muller's Explanation — Local Character of the Practice — Pro- gress of the Dutch Expedition of 1838 along the Coast — Meet a Papuan Flotilla — Practice of Standing while PaddHng their Prahus — Inteniew with the Natives — Friendly Intercourse Established — Trading Propensities of the Papuans — Ceremonial Visit of the Papuan Chief Abrauw — Affection of the Natives towards their Chief — Aristocratic Coolness of the Natives — Friendly Conduct towards the Dutch — Characteristics of the Outanatas — Ichthyosis — Boring the Septum of the Nose, and Pointing the Teeth — Dress and Orna- ments — Characteristics of the Females — A Mother and Child — Dis- position and Character of the Outanatas — Arms and Implements — Canoes — HaT)itations — Domestic Animals — Food — Fruits and Vese- tables — Doubts as to whether the Outanatas are a Coast or Inland Tribe — Papuan Flotillas — Expedition proceeds towards Triton Bay — A Papuan Paradise — The Settlement Founded — Mohammedan In- fluences on the Natives — Their General Characteristics — Foreign Intercourse — Marauders of Onin — The Slave-Trade — Commerce — General View of the Natives of the West Coast of New Guinea — The Alfoeren, or Mountaineers— Origin of the term " Arafuras" . 30 CHAPTER IV. NEW GUINEA, NORTH COAST. Early Voyagers to the North Coast of New Guinea— Dutch Expedition of 1850— Characteristics of the Don,' Papuans — Dress — Scarifications CONTENTS. Vll of the Body — Ornaments — Occupations — Food and Luxuries — Habitations and Household Gear— Arts and Agriculture — Arms and Implements — Na\-igation and Commerce— Character and Disposition — Government and Laws — Customs, Social and Religious — The " Hongi," or Tidore Flotilla — Natives of Run, in the Great Bay — Visit to a Papuan Family — Kurudu — A Deserted Village — The Ambermo River — Dutch Settlement at Humboldt Bay . 64 CHAPTER V. THE A R R U ISLANDS. General Description of the Group — Foreign Intsrcourse — Mixed Race of the Western Islands — Dutch Connection with the Islands Reneweraphy has been strictly preserved, it will be necessary to inform the reader layan, and were probably introduced by foreigners. The specimen of one of this work, when there in 1S4L The dialect of the Andamans is from a :h xiustrahan vocabularies were collected by tlie author of this work while i- them as correct as possible, by going through them with several individuals Port Essington (N. Australia). Popliam Bay (N. Australia). Croker Island (^'. Australia). Van Diem en Gulf (X. Australia;. Mountnorris Bay (N. Australia). rad . . . j Motu argarik . . ■ Luwitbari argarikelerad . I La\vitbari-motu arErariknarsrarik [owan Hi rgadba rpalk nak . bait . nganiala jalH . lailo . r'almat |nbLrik Variat jam . ndadbiggi ,.valu . '• ■■ 'onionio wanj iijiiimul .:k iaulbU Jjark -Jullal :nj;-bal [irka . !Hp . lakalak ..lurvDiKloin •igoridjban ronniaridban orit . ngarauingan reran illemuru . Move i Orana j Wilari I Aloudji . I Ilbanda . Oba . I Oridji . j Ojena ; PorowTi . Ainbu Olono j Ojena I JIarudji . I Koala I Ohi . I Eupeddo . Iwadi Euua Jara Jainida Jalaniari . Yatadljjdji Jiniilakodg Janga Ekoro Yeteni AUo. Alio . Yalanamulya Jimara Araka Ija^n^ Pidpi , Alii . I Madbi . I Pandi ; Jinnramira Langalla . Ai-apori . I Ai'apora nupa I Aralukajelya I "VN'irongo .' I i Arejinga . Koka Orialk Oiialkeraroka Muri Orana Ularit Aijal Orad Obaitj Ungurgal Kgolan Maiungaia Rawau Murde-ejit Aiain Jona ilai-iye Eloin Alalk *■' . W^ari leni Bala Lamaliala Lomar Yeyen ManaNvevi Elod ' . Tala . Wanorgi . Mauawertai AVilt:d . Inbirikagad Weya Lariiulmul Alnieju . Bijitj Alait Wenjoitj Meroitj . "Widawok . Yeyeko . Ararakondoin Murkaiawulan Orongot . Tarweip . Warat iXargarik Jt'argilwarat !Nargariknargarik Manitj Koran a Argadba Kono . Konak Obaitj Morgalal Kaijalli Mangadji Walmat Anbirik Kaain . Larolk K'dadbiggi Poli . Urnin . Oroitj . i'ogal . Jilmul Ira Aruarigbii'ij Kalajah Jigi Adbirjalk Aruaroli Wenjelk Aroaralla Rujut . Kaiuakat Kamar ilbal . ^lainjaug Yap . Lakalak Xaggi . Eljjugi Onjaranioli Burudburan Aroitj Arara . Arunda larnarang X'oritj . Araruaraniba Araran "W'illemuru Warat. Xargarik. Xargarawarat. Xargai-iknai-jcarik. 5Io\van. Orana. Aranmt. Wono. Onak. Obait. Morala. Ojelli. Mailo. Walmat. fWariat. t Anbirik. AVariat. Maniun. Andadbiggi. Ailbawal. Oroljilmul. Aiuaramba. Alajah. Maniiliri. j Adbiljaik. Aruaroli. I Wenjelk. Aronijak. Rujut. Angbal. : Mainjan« Xaggi. Alpugi. Ambit. Arara. Arunda. langauarang. Xurit. WiUemuru. PAPUANS. CHAPTER I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. PECULIARITY OP THE HAIR FEATURES — STATURE AN'D PROPORTIONS MODES OF PERSONAL DISFIGUREMENT PHYSICAL AXD MENTAL CAPACITY CHARACTER AND DISPOSITION RESULTS OF FOREIGN INTERCOURSE ON THE WILD TRIBES. Small tribes of the Papuan race, or, as they are some- times called, Oriental Negroes, are very widely distributed among the islands of the Indian Archipelago; and New Guinea, the easternmost of the group, is supposed to be exclusively occupied by them. The Papuans have very few characteristics in common with the browm-coloured races of the Indian Islands, but their most striking pecuharity consists in their frizzled or woolly hair, which does not spread over the surface of the head, as is usual with the negroes of Africa, but grows in B HAIR. small tufts, each of which keeps separate from the rest ; and the hah-s, if allowed to grow, twist rouud each other, and form spiral ringlets. Many of the tribes, more especially the mountaineers who hold intercourse with more civilized races, from whom they can procure cutting instruments, keep the hair closely cropped. The tufts then assume the form of little knobs, about the size of large peas, which give the head a singular but not altogether unpleasing appearance ; for the regularity of these little knobs is so great, that the first idea which strikes a stranger is that they have been produced by means of a stamp ; and the writer has every reason to believe that the hair of some tribes is naturally short, this knob-like appearance arising without the superfluous hair being cropped. Among the coast tribes of New Guinea, however, the spiral ringlets sometimes grow to the length of a foot, when they are either cut off close to the head, and made into wigs, by inserting the ends into skull-caps formed of matting ; or the ringlets are opened out by the hand, and kept spread by the constant use of a sort of comb of bamboo with four or five long prongs. The hair then assumes a capacious, bushy appearance, which has caused the people who adopt the latter practice to be called " mop-headed Papuans.''^ Some of the less known tribes plait the ringlets over the crown of the head, where they form a thick ridge. All these practices seem to be adopted for the one purpose of obviating the inconvenience that must result from the ringlets falling over the face while hunting or fishing, without entailing the necessity of parting alto- gether with a personal adornment in which they take great FEATURES. 6 pride. ' The hair of the beard and whiskers, with which the Papuans are usually well supplied, also grows in little tufts similar to those of the head ; and the same pecu- liarity is found in the hair with which the breasts and shoulders of the men are sometimes covered, but here the tufts are much farther apart than on the head or chin. This description of woolly or twisted hair is peculiar to the full-blooded Papuans. A comparatively slight mixture with the brown race removes the pecu- liarity, at least has done so in all cases that have come under the writer^s observation. The hair of people of the mixed race, although thick and curly, covers the surface of the head like that of Europeans. The Malayan term for crisped or woolly hair is '^^rambut pua-pua.^^ Hence the term " pua-pua,^' or ^^ papua" (crisped), has come to be applied to the entire race ; and certainly it deserves to be retained, as expressing their most striking peculiarity. The features of the Papuans have a decided negro character : broad noses, thick and prominent lips, receding foreheads and chins, and that turbid colour of what should be the white of the eye, which is apt to give the countenance a sinister expression. Their natural complexion is almost universally a chocolate colour, sometimes closely approaching to black, but certainly some shades lighter than the deep black which is often met with among the negro tribes of Africa. With regard to stature, a great difference is found to exist between distinct tribes, even in New Guinea, which has led to some confusion in the descriptions given by different travellers, who may each have seen only a single B 2 4 STATURE AND PROPORTIOXS. tribe. On the south-west coast of New Guinea, within the space of a hundred miles, are to be found tribes whose general stature is at least equal to that of the finer races of Europeans, and others whose proportions are so small as almost to entitle them to the appellation of pygmies, while customs and characteristics generally so exactly coiTcspond, as to preclude the supposition that these peculiarities can be other than accidental. It is difficult to account for this ; but as the stout and stalwart Papuans are met with only among tribes who have maintained their independence, and v.bo at the same time possess many of the agricultural and mechanical arts, while the pygmies are found only among the tribes that have been driven to the mountain fastnesses, or have fallen under the influence of more powerful races, we may conclude that their mode of life has much to do with this difference in point of stature. The various tribes also differ much in their appear- ance. The more diminutive Papuans, who chiefly come under the notice of Europeans as slaves in the Moluccan settlements, are unprepossessing enough while in their native state, but when under good masters, the regu- larity and wholesome nature of their diet, coupled with their apparent utter forget fulness of home and rela- tives, produce a roundness in their neat clean limbs, and a sprightliness of action, which is rarely met with among their more civilized neighbours of the brown race. On the other hand, the larger Papuans are more remark- able for strength than symmetry. They have broad shoulders and deep chests, but a deficiency is generally found about the lower extremities, splay feet and curved PERSONAL DISFIGUREMEXT. O shins being at least as common as among the negroes of Africa. A singular custom of raising the skin in cicatrices, especially on the shoulders, breast, and thighs, prevails very generally among the Papuans. These cicatrices are formed by cutting the skin through with some sharp instrument in longitudinal stripes, and if on the shoulder or breast, white clay, or some other earthy substance, is rubbed into the wound, which causes the flesh below to rise, and the scarifications, when allowed to heal, assume the form of embossed cicatrices, often as large as the finger. The process by which the flesh is raised is perfectly inexplicable to an European, who would be thrown into fever by any one of the wounds which these strange people bear, two or three at a time, without complaining, but certainly not without suff"ering. The practice of boring the septum of the nose has also been generally observed among the wilder Papuans. In the first instance they wear a roll of plantain-leaf in the orifice, which, by its elasticity, enlarges the hole so much as to admit the thigh-bone of a large bird or some other ornament, which is worn extending across the face on all great occasions. The coast tribes of New Guinea, and of the islands lying immediately to the east, have a practice of filing or grinding the front teeth to points; and another singular custom is prevalent with some of the coast tribes of Papuans, that of destroying the colour of the hair, which is naturally black, by applications of burnt coral mixed with sea-water, and by preparations of wood-ashes in some instances, which gives the hair a light red or flaxen tinge. As the practice of pointing 6 MENTAL AND PHYSICAL CAPACITY. the front teeth is also common among the natives of the Pagi Islands on the west coast of Sumatra, and the custom of discolouring the hair prevails among the natives of Timor-laut, Baba, and Sermattan, who are essentially members of the brown race in their general characteristics, some doubts may reasonably be entertained as to whether these are purely Papuan customs. The Papuans, when placed in circumstances favourable for the development of their powers, are physically superior to the races of South-eastern Asia. Some of the New Guinea tribes would bear a comparison, in point of stature and proportions, with the races of Europe, were it not for the deficiency about the lower extremities which has been already noticed. Even the more diminutive mountain tribes are remarkable for energy and agility — qualities which have led to their being in great demand as slaves among their more civilized neighbours. AVith regard to mental capacity, also, they are certainly not inferior to the bro^Nii races ; but their impatience of control while in an independent state utterly precludes that organization which would enable them to stand their ground against encroach- ment ; and they invariably fall under the influence of the Malayans whenever the two races are brought into contact. This want of organization renders it extremely unsafe for strangers to visit independent tribes, for although the majority may be peacefully inclined, some individuals anions: them are nearlv certain to be turbulent, and inclined for mischief, if not restrained by their com- panions. The struggles that take place on these occa- CONDUCT TOWARDS STRANGERS. 7 sions have come to be looked upon by their visitors as rather a favourable sign, from their indicating that no treachery is contemplated, which is sometimes the case when the natives are unanimous. The wilder tribes generally avoid all intercourse with strangers, if the party that appears among them is sufficiently great to cause alarm ; but if it be small or unarmed, and the Papuans, as is too often the case, have had cause to regard strangers with hostile feelings, they assume a friendly appearance until an* opportunity occurs, and then make a sudden and ferocious attack. But the social characteristic which distinguishes them most from the brown races consists in the inextinguish- able hatred they bear towards those who attempt to settle in their territory, and which is sometimes con- tinued as long as a man of the tribe remains at large. This apparently untameable nature, when in an inde- pendent state, seems to have been the chief cause which has led to their utter extermination in all those islands of the Indian Archipelago that did not possess mountain fastnesses to which they could retire and lead a life similar to that of the Boschman of South Africa. This ferocity of character disappears, in a great measure, when individuals are removed to other countries, for the Papuan slaves, who are found in considerable numbers among the bro^Ti races of the Archipelago, are remark- able for a cheerful and obedient disposition, although they sometimes display an irritability of temper which requires careful management. 8 . NEW GUINEA. CHAPTER II. NEW GUINEA. SOUTH COAST. PAPUAN CHARACTER OF THE NEW GUINEA TRIBES — GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF THE ISLAND — TISITS OF EARLY TOYAGERS DUTCH EX- PEDITION OF 1828 INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES OF DOURGA STRAIT HOSTILE ENCOUNTER CHARACTERISTICS OF THE DOURGA TRIBE WEAPONS AND ORNAMENTS — AGILITY IN CLIMBING TREES MAN- GR0\':E THICKETS HABITATIONS — PAPUANS AND AUSTRALIANS — EXPEDITION OF LIEUTENANT KOOL TO DOURGA STRAIT IN 1835 INTERVIEW WITH A LARGE TRIBE OF FREDERICK-HENRY ISLAND. New Guinea, the great seat of the Papuan race, is 1,400 miles in extreme length, or nearly double that of Borneo; but its supei-ficial area is probably less than that of the latter island (200,000 square geographical miles), as there is every reason to believe that the south coast of New Guinea, immediately opposite to the Gulf of Carpentaria in Australia, forms a deep indentation similar to the Great Bay on the north coast, there being a space of two degrees and a half of longitude in which the land has not yet been seen.* * Of this unexplored space, 118 miles, or four-fiftlis of the whole, were taken possession of by proclamation, in the name of the imjj era nVci 1 Plrte J \h:> J^ 1853. G. W. K. r ■iihuU^ , -!/«. ^'c-jnt£rTf pr '^- \ kf,r ^ p.-"' s I ^ ^Yerdal / /lant &^, J7 V^ AlT^' D^nlm I* <5> ]4;.*. -^,./-l-^"" A It.**^"' N^ \ ^. M" .Iflre'Jttt ^iK-r ^IT'ZbH, i» >."».:i tJiiiueranVca' Liiirarr .1 1853. C. W. K. • '1/ '?...„ IcmWtn i^'m-Yrr/e . t Bai^htr^ /(fj.i DOURGA STRAIT. 9 The names by which the island is known to Europeans and Asiatics, New Guinea and Tanna Papua, both dis- tinctly refer to the leading peculiarity of the race by which the coasts are inhabited. The interior is still a terra incognita, but as a large proportion of the slaves who are exported to the Moluccas have been obtained by stealth or barter from the villages of the interior, and these are invariably pure Papuans in general character-- istics, there is at present no reasonable prospect of any other race being found there. This point, however, so deeply interesting to the student of ethnography, must remain an open question until some traveller has pene- trated the interior, an enterprise which, in the ordinary course of events, must be attempted before many years elapse. The western peninsula of New Guinea consists of masses of elevated land, penetrated by deep salt-water inlets, and affording evidence of having been intensely disturbed by recent volcanic action. The most striking geographical feature of the great eastern peninsula con- sists in a back-bone of lofty mountains, which apparently extends throughout its lensrth. Three remarkable table- topped mountains near the centre of the island, in the King of Holland, in the year 1S28. As the commanders of Her Majesty's ships employed in the surveyuig service are said to have general instructions not to interfere with coasts claimed by foreign powers, unless the interests of navigation absolutely require it, this in some degree accounts for the fact that so large a space of coast, within 600 miles of an European settlement that has been estab- hshed more than three centuries, remains stiU unkaown to ci^Tlized nations. B 3 10 XEW GUINEA. meridian of 138^ E.^ were estimated by tlie officers of the Dutch corvette 'Triton^ in 1828 to be upwards of 20,000 feet in elevation, and appeared to be covered with snow. And as the range has also been seen from the north coast of the island, at a point more than 200 miles distant from that of the ' Triton^s' observations, their height cannot have been much over-estimated. All parts of the island hitherto visited are overspread by a gigantic vegetation, affording food and shelter to animals of singular development, of which the Babi-rusa, or many- tusked hog, the Tree-Kangaroo, the Bird-of-Paradise, and the gigantic Crowned-Pigeon, are only a few of the many varieties. Some marked peculiarities in the development of the human inhabitants may reasonably be expected under these circumstances, and certainly every succeeding voyager brings to light new and striking particulars concerning this singular race, which materially enhance the interest that civilized nations naturally take in the habits and characteristics of their savage brethren. The coast tribes of the western peninsula of New Guinea have held commercial intercourse with Moham- medan inhabitants of the Moluccas for several centuries past ; indeed, the Sultan of Tidore claims a sort of suzerainty over the trading ports of the coast, a claim which seems to be recognized by the Papuans, many of whom have become Mohammedans. And as several Malayan customs may have been introduced at the same time, the inhabitants of the western peninsula cannot be brought forward as exhibiting the Papuan race in its aboriginal condition. Indeed, the entire north coast of New Guinea seems to have been subjected to similar DOURGA STRAIT. 11 influences in a certain degree^ probably from its lying near the supposed course of the great Malayu-Polynesian migration. But the south and south-west coasts have been very rarely intruded on by \dsitors, European or Asiatic. The early Dutch navigators, who followed the south-west coast on their way to explore the Great South Land, have left traces of their intercourse, which appears never to have been friendly, in the names they have given to the two principal rivers of the south-west coast, "Moor- denaar,^^ or murderer, and " Doodslaager,^^ or slaughterer ; and the experiences of Captain Cook, who touched on this coast in the ' Endeavour,' were only a little less unfa- vourable. Indeed, no record exists of friendly intercourse having been held by Europeans with natives of the south and south-west coasts until the year 1828, when the Dutch government, during one of those spurts of colonial activity which seem to attack western nations periodically, dispatched a large corvette, the 'Triton,^ to this pai-t of the coast, with a party of natm-alists and draughtsmen to make observations, and a body of troops to form the garrison of a settlement. The strait which separates the south-west extreme of New Guinea from the main land was the first spot visited, and as the secluded tribe they met with on the shores of the strait had pro- bably never before held intercourse with a strange people, I propose making some extracts from a narrative of the expedition by Lieutenant Modera,* one of those intelli- * "Yerhaal van eene Reize naar de Zuid-west Kust van Niew-Guinea, door J. Modera, Lieutenant ter Zee." Haarlem, 1S30. 12 NEW GUINEA. gent officers of whom the Dutch royal navy has latterly presented so many favourable examples. And it should be mentioned that the information furnished by the Dutch expeditions is particularly valuable^ as they are always provided ^A^th interpreters well experienced in intercourse with the Papuans ; and although they may sometimes be unable to hold a conversation with tribes hitherto unacquainted with strangers, still their general knowledge of Papuan customs prevents voyagers from falling into those errors which the most careful are liable to, if brought into communication with strange tribes without the assistance of persons acquainted with their general habits. The ' Triton^ entered the Dourga Strait, which lies in lat. 7° 28' S., and long. 138^ 58' E., on the 21st of May, 1828 ; and after examining a creek without meeting with any other traces of people than foot-marks on the muddy banks, they were preparing to leave the spot, and proceed farther up the strait, when the natives made their appearance. But I prefer giving Mr. Modera^s own account of the interview. " Scarcely, however, had we commenced getting up the anchor, when seven men were seen on the shore, who ran out into the water as far as they could, shouting loudly, and making all sorts of droll and uncouth gestures. Weighing anchor was deferred, and it was arranged that the Commissioner Van Delden should proceed towards the shore, sending the native interpreter in advance in a small canoe to open a commu- nication with the natives. The Lieutenant Modera (the narrator) was ordered away with an armed boat to cover DOURGA STRAIT. 13 them in case of need^ and as the canoe could not be got ready speedily, the whole party, consisting of Mr. Van Delden and the native interpreter, Messrs. Macklot,Hugen- holtz, Boers, and Van Raalten, embarked in his boat. All the gentlemen, as well as the boat^s crew, were armed, and the muskets were loaded as the boat was proceeding towards the shore. "When the boat had reached to within a musket-shot distance from them, the natives, who were armed with bows, an'ows, and lances, commenced making singular gestures with their arms and legs. The native interpreter called out to them in a language partly com- posed of Ceramese, and partly of a dialect spoken by a Papuan tribe dwelling a little farther to the north, but his words were evidently quite unintelligible to them, as they only answered with loud and wild yells. We endeavoured, for a long time without success, to induce them to lay aside their weapons; but at length one of them was prevailed on to do so, and the others followed his example, on which we also laid down our arras, keeping them, however, at hand. "We now slowly approached each other, and the interpreter, dipping his hand into the sea, sprinkled some of the water over the crown of the head, as a sign of peaceful intentions.* This they seemed to understand, for two of them imme- diately did the same, on which the interpreter jumped into the shallow water, and approached them with some looking-glasses and strings of beads, which were received with loud laughter and yells. They now began dancing * Tliis custom seems to be general among aU the Papuan tribes, and iu most cases their peaceful intentions may be depended upon after having entered into this silent compact. — G. W. E. 14 NEW GUINEA. in the water, making the interpreter join, and the party was soon increased by other natives from the woods, who were attracted by the presents. Mr. Hugenholtz also jumped into the shallow water, and joined in the dance, and they soon became so friendly as to come close around the boat, indeed some of them were even induced to get in. * Hs * * " Their confidence rapidly increased ; and they inspected and admired the European weapons, crying out repeatedly 'kakka,^ 'kakka/ They bartered their weapons and ornaments with us for beads, looking-glasses, &c., and lat- terly, for pieces of cloth. Each present was received with dancing and yelling, which last was echoed from the woods by shouts in which women^s voices were evidently mingled. The looking-glasses, which are generally so much admired by uncivilized people, were closely looked into at first, but subsequently were received with indif- ference. Pieces of cloth were the great objects of their desires. We repeatedly tried to persuade them to come on board, but they gave us to understand that they were afraid we should cut oflf their heads. When they asked us shortly afterwards for water to drink, we made signs to them that it was to be obtained on board ; but they did not seem to have any inclination to go there to fetch it. " One of our people, wishing to dress a native with a waistcoat, neckcloth, and a handkerchief for the head, he submitted to the process very willingly ; and when his DOURGA STRAIT. 15 toilet was completed, he drew the attention of his coun- trymen to the improvement in his appearance, which seemed to give very general satisfaction. They appeared to be more curious than thievishly-inclined. Everything was looked at and admired, but nothing was appropriated ; nevertheless, we thought it best to keep a watchful eye over them. When one of them took up Lieutenant Modera's loaded pistol to examine it, the latter took it from him with a serious countenance, and laid it down again, exclaiming, ' taboo' (the South Sea Island term for 'prohibited'), and he did not attempt to take it up again. '' While all this was going on, they kept drawing the boat — unperceived as they thought — towards the beach, which determined us to return, as our stock of presents was exhausted, and there seemed no probability of our inducing any of them to go on board with us. Shortly before this Mr. Boers had ornamented a Papuan with a string of beads, who, upon receiving it, joined two of his countrymen that were standing a little distance off, with the arms that had been laid aside, and which they had been gradually getting together again ; a proceeding we had observed, but trusting in the mutual confidence that had been established, we did not much heed it. At the moment in which we were setting off the boat to return on board, this man fixed an arrow in his bow, and took aim at Mr. Boers, who was sitting in the fore part of the boat, on which the latter turned aside to take up his gun, but before he could do so, he received the arrow in his left thigh, which knocked him over, shouting 'Fire! fire! I am hit!' as he fell. The order was scarcely 16 NEW GUINEA. given before every one had hold of his arms (which, as ah'eady stated, were kept at hand), and a general dis- charge put the natives to flight, swimming and diving like ducks. Before they took to flight, however, they discharged several more arrows at our people, one of which struck Mr. Hugenholtz in the right knee, another hit a sailor in the leg, while a third pierced a sailoi-^s hat, and remained sticking in it ; and, lastly, a Javanese had the handkerchief shot ofi" his head, but without receiving any personal injury. Four of the natives, in whom we had inspired so much confidence that they had come into the boat, sprang overboard in the greatest haste as soon as the attack commenced, before any of our people thought of securing them. The people of the ' Iris' (the tender to the *" Triton') saw the natives, after the departure of the boat, drag three of their companions out of the water, so that they vv'ere probably killed, or severely wounded. "After the natives had taken flight, the interpreter got out of the boat again to pick up the arrows and darts that had been thrown at us, at which we were not altogether pleased, for we wished to return without giving cause for farther hostilities, as the commander of the ' Triton' had given orders that ' we m ere not to use the arms except in case of the most urgent necessity ;' but more especially on account of the wounded, as it was feared that the arrows might be poisoned.* Fortunately our fears were groundless ; * The use of poison to give greater effect to missiles does not seem to be known to the Papuans of New Guinea and the neigh- bouring islands, at least I have never heard a well-authenticated DOURGA STRAIT. 17 nevertheless Mr. Hugenholtz suffered severely on account of his wound.^^* This was a very unfortunate affair, which may lead to future bloodshed, as the relatives or descendants of the slain will think it necessarj^ for their own character to make a disturbance, should they ever again have inter- course with strangers, although the bulk of the tribe may be peacefully inclined. From Mr. Modera^s clear account of the transaction, it e\'idently arose from a misunderstanding on the part of the natives, who, seeing the boat shoving off with some of their companions still on board, naturally supposed that it was intended to carry them off. Nearly ever\' uncivilized tribe of the Archipelago must some time or other have lost members of its small community, either by force or treacheiy, to support the detestable traffic in human flesh introduced by Mohammedans, and, until very recently, fostered by Christians ; and the little experience these Papuans had of intercourse with strangers, scarcely enabled them to see the difference between civilized Europeans and the traders from Ceram and the ^loluccas, who, it is to be feared, but too often complete their cargoes with the unfortunates they may capture, or entice on board, during their voyages along the Papuan coasts. Mr. Modera's account of the personal characteristics of account of their employiag it. The practice seems to be confined to those aborigiaal tribes who use, or have used the sumpitan, or blow- pipe ; the Httle darts projected from this instrument being incapable of effecting the destruction of any animal larger than a sparrow without the aid of a powerful poison. — G. W. E. * Modera, "Reize," &c., pp. 23—29. 18 NEW GUINEA. this tribe is very full and complete. " Their stature is of the middle size, and they are not particularly strongly built. The colour of their skin is a light black, vdih a blueish tinge. The lips are tolerably thick, and the nose rather flat. Their appearance is generally sinister and always repulsive, which is not a little increased by the greasiness of their bodies, and by the ugly and dirty practice of besmearing the forehead, and the face under the nose and round the chin, with red clay or mud. Their features bear a considerable resemblance to those of the Arabians {Arabieren) .^ Nearly all of them had the lobe of the ear bored, and the slit was generally half a finger long. AYhether this hole is enlarged by the weight of the ring, which I shall have to notice presently, or is cut to this size in the first instance, I did not ascertain. ''The hair of the head is crisp {kort gekroesd) like that of African negroes, and pitch-black in colour ; one of the men wore it plaited as a tail, like those of the Chinese, and hanging down from the back of the head in the same manner. Some of them wore the hair in a small tress or braid at the crown of the head ; while others again wore rushes round about the occiput, which were plaited firmly into the hair. They allow the hair of the beard and whiskers to grow ; the former is crisp like that of the head. '' The men went entirely naked, with the exception of * The term " Arabicreu" is commonly used by the Dutch to indicate negroes, and it has been probably appHed in this sense on the present occasion. — G. W. E. DOURGA STRAIT. 19 the lower part of tlie stomach, round wliicli tliey wore a girdle or band five or six inches broad ; some of these girdles were provided with a large shell so placed as to cover the centre of the stomach. This girdle is made of plaited rushes,* which fastens behind, and the ends hang down about a foot below the girdle. Eveiy male wore this article of costume ; but as regards ornaments, each one differed from his neighbour. Suffice to say that some wore arm bands or bracelets of plaited rattan, which were so tightly fixed round the muscle of the arm above the elbow, that to take them off it was necessary to smear the arm with mud, and to have the assistance of another person, to pull them off. Others had necklaces made of cord very neatly twisted: while others wore fringes over the breast made of the same material, the ends of which were provided with small oval pieces of wood. Many had ear-rings of plaited rattan, which some wore in the right and others in the left ear. " From the above description we may picture to our- selves this race of people, -^-ith an offensive manner, theii' skins be-spattered with mud and of very ill savour, their bodies often covered with sores or sheets of scales ; and it is not surprising that the general impression was that they were an ugly and repulsive people, especially when we also take into account their alternate shrill laugh and * These girdles, as weU as the sort of net which covers the occiput, are probably made from the leaf of the Pandaniis, the cabbage-tree of the Australian colonists, an exceedingly durable material in general use among the Papuans for making mats and baskets. The latter are sometimes so closely woven as to hold liquids. — G. "W. E. 20 NEW GUINEA, piercing yell^ which jarred on the ear like bad notes in music. "Arrows, bows, and lances, or throwing-spears, were the only weapons we saw amongst them, and some of these we obtained from them by barter. The arrows and lances were of reed, with points of pinang-wood hardened in the fire. " On the afternoon of the day in which the encounter took place, the Naturalists, well armed, returned to the creek at high water, and saw a spectacle which was also witnessed by those on board with the aid of telescopes ; namely, the trees full of natives of both sexes, who, with weapons on their backs, sprang from branch to branch like monkeys, making the same gestures as in the morning, and shouting and laughing in like manner, without our people being able to tempt them out of the trees by throwing presents towards them, so that they returaed on board again.* "On the morning of the 23rd, several well-armed natives made their appearance on the beach, dancing, shouting, and making the same gestures as on the pre- ceding: dav. After them came a number of women and children, carrpng in their hands branches of trees and, as we supposed, fruit also. They shouted to us as loud as they could, probably to im4te us on shore ; but we did not comply with their wishes, as we weighed towards noon, and beat up the strait to another anchorage.^t * See note at the end of the chapter. t Modera, "Reize," &c., pp. 29—32. 3k- v.;. ''^'^% ^. ^- -^ :• I DOURGA STRAIT. 2] Mr. Modera's account of the monkey-like gambols in the trees may probably excite a smile of incredulity in the reader. Nevertheless^ the fact of the Papuans being able to proceed with wonderful rapidity through the man- grove thickets which line the sea-shores, is well authenti- cated, and has been long known to those acquainted with the habits of the wilder tribes; but no British tra- veller, with the fate of Abyssinian Bruce before his eves, would have ventured to promulgate such a statement, unless he could bring forward incontestible e'v'idence to support it. The sea coasts of alluvial districts in tropical regions are invariably lined by belts of mangroves, which sometimes extend into the sea for miles beyond the level of high water ; and in New Guinea, as well as on the northern coasts of Australia, the mangroves assume the character of forest trees about the upper parts, while the lower consist of a network of strong fibrous roots, which is absolutely impenetrable without the aid of an axe ; and even then it is impossible to proceed unless the mud has sufficient consistency to support the weight of the body, which is rarely the case except at dead low- water. As the coast tribes, who derive their chief subsistence from the sea, have to cross this belt almost daily, they naturally prefer scrambling through the upper branches, which are strong enough to afford secure footing, while, at the same time, they intertwine with each other in so peculiar a manner, that, vriih a little practice, this sin- gular mode of travelling can even be adopted by Eu- ropeans. Indeed, the writer, on more than one occasion, has seen a file of Marines, with muskets on their shoul- ders, steadily making their way over mangrove swamps in 23 NEW GUINEA. this manner, althougli they certainly did not display the monkey-like agility that Mr. Modera has so graphically described. Perhaps the pride of man may be wounded on finding how closely his species may approximate to that of the quadruraanes ; but a little consideration will induce him to regard with admiration the wonderful adaptation of God^s creatures to any circumstances under which they may be placed. It is a singular fact that, on the south- west coast of New Guinea, the kangaroo, apparently the least suited of all animals for the process of chmbing, has adapted himself to the half- drowned nature of the country by becoming an inhabitant of the trees.* The habitations of this strange people, which were probably situated on the firm land within the belt of mangroves that lined the shore, were not seen by their visitors ; indeed, the only indication of fixed residences met with on the shores of the strait consisted in the ruins of two thatched sheds, which were found near the beach, about fifteen miles from the spot at which the interview took place, but which appeared to have been long abandoned. The remains of an old canoe, thirty feet long and two and a half feet wide, were discovered, half-buried in the mud, near the same spot, together ^^ith a quantity of oyster shells and cocoa-nut husks ; but whether this had been a summer residence of the natives, or the encampment of a stray party of pearl-fishers from the more westerly islands, could not be ascertained. * I saw a living specimen of this singular animal a few days ago iu the gardens of the Royal Zoological Society of London. — G.W.E. DOURGA STRAIT. 23 It seems probable that the natives themselves are only periodical \dsitors to the coast, perhaps during the season best suited for fishings for Lieutenant Kolff, who disco- vered the strait two' years before, saw no traces of inha- bitants on its shores ; indeed, the only people met with in the immediate neighbourhood were seen on the outer coast near Cape Yalsche, where, as Mr. Kolff states, " while the boats were rowing as usual along the mud- bank, smoke was seen to arise from the shore, and on nearing the spot, a number of people were seen climbing up in the trees, who fled into the forest as the boats approached/^* Those who are acquainted with the characteristics of the aboriginal Australians, especially of those of the north coast, will at once perceive how closely Mr. Modera^'s description of these Papuans and their imple- ments would apply to many Australian tribes, excepting only the bows (not the arrows, for they are pure Austra- lian darts,) and the crisp hair ; but, indeed, the latter feature is not uncommon among the tribes of Moreton Bay and the north-east coast. As Mr. Modera had never seen and perhaps heard little of the Australians before his voyage to New Guinea, and he is perfectly innocent of all ethnological theories, his evidence must be con- sidered incontestible. These circumstances, coupled with the fact of his account having been published imme- diately after the return of the New Guinea expedition, have led me to prefer Mr. Modera^s plain narrative to the more scientific pages of Temminck and Miiller m * " Voyage of the ' Doiirga' to New Guinea and the "Moluccas," p. 321, Loudon, ISiO, — Translation. 24 NEW GUINEA. the Government Report of the Expedition. Those ethnologists who have been actively employed abroad in collecting materials^ are very apt to adopt some particular race, with which they happen to be best acquainted, as a standard with which to compare all others that they meet with ; and I feel that my long and inti- mate acquaintance with the aboriginal Australians has not left me altogether free from a similar influence. I shall, therefore, in the course of this work, insert the descrip- tions of intelligent travellers whose authenticity can be depended upon in preference to my own observations, whenever the personal characteristics of the native tribes are under review ; as it fortunately happens that I have abundant materials at my disposal v/hich will be as new to the English reader as my own contributions could be. This strait was revisited in 1835 by Lieutenant Kool, with two schooners under his command, who was the first to pass through it. He named it the Prinses Marianne Strait, after a member of the Royal Family of the Nether- lands ; but as it had long been known by the name con- ferred upon it by Lieutenant KolflP, the first discoverer, that of Dourga (the name of his vessel), the latter has been generally retained in the charts of these parts. An abstract of Lieutenant Kool's report is given by Dr. Miiller, and as it contains some important information concerning the natives, who were found to be in possession of numbers of canoes, it will be necessary to extract it in order to give all the information extant concerning the south-western tribes of New Guinea. No record exists of the strait having been visited by an European vessel since the voyage of Lieutenant Kool. DOURGA STRAIT. 25 '^During tlie tliree days in which Lieutenant Kool lay at anchor under the south point of the northern entrance of the strait, no natives were observed, although smoke was seen to arise here and there in the forest. On the 1st of May both vessels entered the strait, and anchored towards evening under a point of land on the north shore, a good distance within the strait. On the following morn- ing the cable of the ' Sireen' parted, and the strong tide having set her upon the bank at low water, the remainder of the day was spent in getting her afloat and in recovering the lost anchor. While they were thus busily employed, four natives made their appearance on the adjacent point, but no sooner was an attempt made to approach them in a boat, than they took flight into the forest. Shortly after- wards, two canoes with twenty-five to thirty men in them, were seen near the opposite coast, and Lieutenants Kool and Banse crossed over tow^ards them ; but as the boat approached, the savages retired, and landing on the shore, they stood, with their bows strung and arrows prepared, in a posture of defiance. Mr. Kool placed some knives and some basins filled with tobacco on the beach, which were eagerly caught up with loud shouts as soon as the boat had retired. An attempt was again made to approach them, but they retired as before, and all the attempts of the officers to obtain a close communication with them were unsuccessful ; their object being rendered the more difficult by the inability of the Ceramese interpreter to understand the language of these wild bushmen. Li the afternoon, a canoe with five natives approached close to the ^ Postillion,^ and the commander showed them cloth c 26 NEW GUINEA. and other presents in order to induce them to come on board. "\Mien it was found that they were not to be attracted by these means, a boat was sent towards them, but as soon as they observed its approach they paddled with all speed to the shore. On the morning of the 3rd of May, about twenty-five canoes, each manned with from six to ten natives, approached from the opposite shore of the strait, and directed their course towards the boats, which were then engaged in raising the lost anchor, and an armed boat was sent for their protection, as the savages, with their bows and arrows, were not to be trusted. Their appearance was all the less favourable from the party-coloured painting of their faces and bodies, for which red, yellow, and even black colours were employed ; and from the large lappets of the ears, some of which hung down upon the shoulders, and were provided with all sorts of ornaments, as shells, wood, &c., and some of them had even the teeth of animals stuck through them. Some presents were distributed among them, for which they gave cocoa-nuts in exchange. Although they showed no signs of enmity, yet by way of precaution, a blank shot (eene los schot) was fired from time to time in order to intimidate them, and to withhold them as much as pos- sible from improper conduct. They took a great deal of trouble in endeavouring to entice the crew of the boats on shore, but appeared by no means anxious to visit the vessels. AVhen the anchor was raised, and the boats retm'ned on board, the canoes all paddled to the shore, where they again collected together. The commanders of the two vessels, hoping to obtain some information concerning the DOURGA STRAIT. 27 country, followed them with two armed boats, and as soon as the latter approached the shore, a number of natives ran to meet them, and seizing the sides of the boats attempted to drag them up the beach, which the boats^ crew, by signs, endeavoured to prevent. At the same moment, one of the savages drew Lieutenant Ban>e's sword from the scabbard, while another seized fast hold of the butt of a musket. These freedoms awakened dis- trust in the officers, and warned them to take measures of resistance in time. The muskets were presented at the savages, the result of which was that they let go the boats and every other object they had seized, and retreated with precipitation. The officers also retired to their vessels. In the afternoon, when "the vessels got under weigh, the canoes all recrossed the strait, and followed the vessels along the coast. They were soon afterwards joined by others, so that altogether the number of the natives must have amounted to five hundred. They made all sorts of gestures, while now and then a canoe separated from the others and approached the vessels to reconnoitre. For this reason, and also on account of the great number of the savages, the precaution was taken of loading some of the guns wdth grape-shot, in order to be prepared against the possibility of any attack during the night. They did not venture to do so, however, and on the following morn- ing all the savages had disappeared, and no natives were subsequently seen from either of the vessels. During the remainder of the passage through the strait to the southern entrance, no more smoke was seen rising above the forest. A few ruined huts here and there, as miserable in appear- ance as the people themselves^ was all that was observed c 2 28 NEW GUINEA. subsequently. Neither women nor children v>'ere seen by the officers.'^* Note. — The following account of the interview with the natives in the trees, described at page 20, is extracted from Dr. S. Miiller's "Bijdragen tot de Kennis van Nieuw Guinea," which forms part of the great national work entitled " Yerhandeling over de Natuurlijke Geschiedenis der Nederlansch Overzeesche Bezittin- gen," which was published during the years 1839 — 1844, by order of the King of the Netherlands : " Until four o'clock in the afternoon we saw nothing more of the savages. At that hour, however, we thought we perceived an agi- tation in the high forest, and shortly afterwards we actually saw several men clambering about in the tops of the trees, and peeping out through the leaves and branches, now here, and now there. It was just high water, and as far as we could perceive the surface of the ground was entirely submerged. Excited by curiosity, and anxious to know what impression the encounter of the morning had made upon the natives, Messrs, Macklot, Van Delden, Van Oort, and I, went towards them in a boat. As we approached the shore, we observed that the trees were fidl of natives. They made a terrible disturbance, sprang about, beckoned, nodded, and gave us to understand by a hundx'ed other motions and gestures that they wished us to land. Oiu' Ceramese interpreter, on his part, was equally active and noisy in inviting them to come to us, for which purpose he showed them white calico, strings of beads, and similar presents. Several of them clambered down from the trees, and advanced beyond the forest -with green branches in their hands, the water reaching to their armpits, and sometimes even to their necks. The beckoning and waving of the branches, and the loud yelping cries of 'kaka, kaka,' ' djcwa, djewa,' 'njicuba, njieuba,' &c., were without end. They all yelled in a different key, and strove to outvie each other in the shrillness of their voices, and extravagance of their gestures. Their party-coloured countenances and bewildered * "Bijdragen tot de Kennis van Nieuw Guinea," p. 42. DOURGA STRAIT. 29 hair were displayed very distinctly. The shallo^v^less of the water preventing us from approacliing close up to the shore, we were oblit'ed to be satisfied mth an inspection from a short distance. Mr. Van Oort profited by this opportunity of making a sketch of the singular scene, of which we have given a life-like representation (eene aanschouwelijke voorstelling) in Plate iv. [Plate iii of this work is a veiy accurate copy.] After tarrying for about half an hour, we proceeded westward towards the mouth of the creek, the savages following us, clambering through the upper branches of the trees, and over the roots of the mangrove trunks, even like great monkeys, with their naked and dark-coloured bodies. The fall of night obliged us, whether willing or unwilling, to return on board." — " Bijdragen tot de Kennis van Nieuw Guinea," p. 41. 30 NEW GUINEA. CHAPTER III. NEW GUINEA. SOUTH-WEST COAST. CAPTAIX cook's interview with the PAPUANS IN 1770 — LIEUTENANT KOLFf's visit to the SAME SPOT IN 1828 HIS INTERVIEW^ WITH THE NATIVES ICHTHYOSIS SINGULAR PRACTICE OF EJECTING A SMOKE-LIKE MATERIAL FROM BAMBOO TUBES LIEUTENANT MO- DERa's ACCOUNT OF THE PRACTICE DR. MULLEr's EXPLANATION LOCAL CHARACTER OF THE PRACTICE PROGRESS OF THE DUTCH EXPEDITION OF 1838 ALONG THE COAST MEET A PAPUAN FLOTILLA PRACTICE OF STANDING WHILE PADDLING THEIR PRAHUS INTER- VIEW WITH THE NATIVES — FRIENDLY INTERCOURSE ESTABLISHED TRADING PROPENSITIES OF THE PAPUANS CEREMONIAL VISIT OF THE PAPUAN CHIEF ABRAUW AFFECTION OF THE NATIVES TOWARDS THEIR CHIEF ARISTOCRATIC COOLNESS OF THE NATIVES FRIENDLY CONDUCT TOWARDS THE DUTCH CHARACTERISTICS OF THE OUTA- NATAS ICHTHYOSIS BORING THE SEPTUM OF THE NOSE, AND POINTING THE TEETH — DRESS AND ORNAMENTS — CHARACTERISTICS OF THE FEMALES A MOTHER AND CHILD DISPOSITION AND CHA- RACTER OF THE OUTANATAS ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS — CANOES HABITATIONS DOMESTIC ANIMALS FOOD FRUITS AND VEGETA- BLES — DOUBTS AS TO WHETHER THE OUTANATAS ARE A COAST OR INLAND TRIBE PAPUAN FLOTILLAS EXPEDITION PROCEEDS TO- WARDS TRITON BAY A PAPUAN PARADISE — THE SETTLEMENT SOUTH-WEST COAST. 31 FOUNDED MOHAMMEDAX INFLUEXCES ON THE NATIVES THEIR GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS FOREIGN INTERCOURSE MARAUDERS OF ONIN THE SLATE-TRADE COMMERCE GENERAL VIEW OF THE NATIVES OF THE WEST COaST OF NEW GUINEA THE ALFOEREN, OR MOUNTAINEERS ORIGIN OF THE TERM " ARAFURAS." The tribes noticed in the preceding chapter are the most uncouth in appearance of any that have yet been encountered by Europeans in New Guinea. The cir- cumstances under which Lieutenant Modera^s interview took placCj with well-grounded cause for suspicion on both sideSj were certainly unfavourable to the develop- ment of any pleasing characteristics on the part of the natives, which a more unrestrained intercourse might have brought to light ; and it must also be taken into con- sideration that they were met with away from their homes, apparently on a hunting or fishing excursion. The belt of mangrove-trees must be crossed, and their habitations on the firm land visited, before a judgment can be pro- nounced as to their social condition. The fact of their protecting, and perhaps planting the cocoa-nut-tree, shows that they have made the first great step out of the savage state, so that upon this point they are incomparably in advance of the Australian aborigines. The spot vdsited in 1770 by Captain Cook, who was the sole authority respecting the natives of the south-west coast of Xew Guinea until the publication of Lieutenant Kolfi^s naiTative in 1828, is apparently the permanent residence of a tribe, as a village was found by the latter officer near the same spot more than fifty years afterwards. The striking peculiarities in the customs of the native tribe described by our ablest of navigators, have excited 32 NEW GUINEA. SO much curiosity, that the portion of his narrative which treats of his inteniew with them is given below in a note.* The village lies about sixty miles to the north of the entrance of Dourga Strait^ in lat. 6° 15' S. * " On the 3rd of September, 1770, at daybreak we saw the land extending from N. by E. to S. E., at about four leagues distance, and we then kept standing in for it with a fresh gale at E.S.E. and E. by S. tiU nine o'clock, when being within three or four miles of it, and in tlu-ee fathom water, we brought to. The pinnace being hoisted out, I set off from the ship with the boat's crew, accom- panied by 'Mi. Banks, who also took his servant, and Dr. Solander, being in aU twelve persons well armed ; we rowed directly towards the shore, but the water was so shallow that we could not reach it by about two hundred yards. "We waded, however, the rest of the way, having left two of the seamen to take care of the boat. " Hitherto we had seen no sign of inhabitants at this place, but as soon as we got ashore we discovered the prints of human feet, which could not long have been impressed upon the mud, as they were below high water mark ; we therefore concluded that the people were at no great distance, and as a thick wood came down within a hundred yards of the water, we thought it necessary to proceed with caution, lest we should faU into an ambuscade, and our retreat to the boat be cut off. We walked along the skirts of the wood, and at the distance of about two hundred yards from the place where we landed, we came to a grove of cocoa-nut-trees, which stood upon the banks of a Httle brook of brackish water. The trees were of a small gro-^-th, but well hung with fruit ; and near them was a shed, or hut, which had been covered with their leaves, though most of them were now fallen off ; about the hut lay a great number of the shells of the fruit, some of which appeared to be just fresh fi-om the tree. We looked at the fruit very wistfully, but not thinking it safe to climb, we were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. " At a little distance from this place we found plantains, and a bread-fruit -ti'ee, but it had nothing upon it ; and having now ad- SOUTH-WEST COAST. 33 Lieutenant Kolff was equally unsuccessful with Captain Cook in opening a friendly intercoui'se with the inhabi- vanced about a quarter of a mile from tbe boat, three Indians rashed out of the wood with a hideous shout, at about the distance of a hundred yards ; and as they ran towards us, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew on one side of him, and burnt exactly like gunpowder, but made no report : the other two instantly thi-ew their lances at us, and as no time was now to be lost we discharged our pieces, which were loaded with small shot. It is probable that they did not feel the shot, for though they halted a moment they did not retreat, and a third dart was thrown at us. As we thought their farther approach might be prevented with less risk of life, than it would cost to defend ourselves against their attack if they should come nearer, we loaded our pieces with ball and fired a second time. By this discharge it is probable that some of them were wounded, yet we had the satisfaction to see that thev all ran awav with great agihtv. " As I was not disposed forcibly to invade this country, either to gratify our appetites or our curiosity, and perceived that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, we improved this interval, in which the destruction of the natives was no longer necessary to our own defence, and with all expedition returned towards our boat. As we were advancing along the shore, we perceived that the two men on board made signals that more Indians were coming down, and before we got into the water we saw several of them coming round a point at a distance of about five hundred yards. It is probable that they had met with the three who first attacked us, for as soon as they saw us they halted, and seemed to wait till their main body should come up. "We entered the water, and waded towards the boat, and they remained at their station without giving us any intemiption. " As soon as we were aboard we rowed abreast of them, and their number then appeared to be between sixty and a hundied. V^ e took a view of them at our leisure; they made much the same appearance as the Xew Hollanders, being nearly of the same stature. 34 NEW GUINEA. tants of this village. The narrative of his voyage through the Moluccan Archipelago and along the south-west coast of New Guinea, which appeared in 1828, was translated by the writer during the passage from England of Her Majesty^s ships ' Alligator ' and ' Britomart' to form the and having their hair short-cropped ; hke them also they were all stark naked, but we thought the colour of their skm was not quite so dark ; tliis, however, might perhaps be merely the effect of their not being quite so dirty. All this while they were shouting •defiance, and letting off theh fires by four or five at a time. T\Tiat these fires were, or for what purpose intended, we could not unagine; those who discharged them had in their hands a short piece of stick — possibly a hollow cane — ^which tliey swung sideways from them, and we immediately saw fire and smoke, exactly re- sembhng those of a musket, and of no longer duration. This wonderful phenomenon was observed from the ship, and the de- ception was so great that the people on board thought they had fire-arms ; and in the boat, if we had not been so near as that we must have heard the report, we should have thought they had been firing volleys. "After we had looked at them attentively some time, without taking any notice of their flashing and vociferation, we fired some muskets over their heads ; upon hearmg the balls rattle among the trees they walked leisurely away, and we retui-ned to the ship. Upon examining the weapons they had thrown at us we found them to be hght darts, about four feet long, very ill-made, of a reed or bamboo-cane, and pointed with hard wood, in which there were many barbs. These were discharged with great force, for though we were at sixty yards distance they went beyond us, but in what manner we could not exactly see ; possibly they might be shot with a bow, but we saw no bows among them when we sun^eyed them from the boat, and we were in general of opinion that they were tlirown with a stick, in the mamier practised by the New Hollanders." — "Captain Cook's First Voyage," book iii, chapter vii. SOUTH-WEST COAST. 35 settlement at Port Essington, and was published in this countn^ in 1 840 ; but as its circulation has not been very extensive, and no subsequent nsit to this spot has been recorded, Lieutenant Kolff's account of his interview with this un-named tribe may be new to the reader. " On the 13th (May, 1826), being between the paral- lels of 6^ and 6^ 30' S., we were enabled to near the land; and seeing smoke arise to the northward of us, we stood towards it, and shortly perceived a number of small houses on the sandy beach, off which we came to anchor in three fathoms, about four miles distant from the shore. A number of men were i-unning to and fro on the beach, and I lowered one of the boats down for the purpose of communicating with them. Several small prahus, con- taininsr seven or eisht men each, now came towards the vessel, and ha^-ing approached to within musket-shot, turned back towards the shore. With a view to give them confidence, I sent the crew dov^ii below, and caused the pilots and interpreters to call out to them : but their answers were unintelligible. Seeing that they were afraid to come on board, I sent one of the interpreters with six native seamen in the boat, unarmed, with a view to conciliate them by presents of tobacco, &c., which were shown to them and then launched towards them on a plank. " Our endeavours, however, were unsuccessful, for they were as much afraid of the boat as of the brig, and re- treated on its approach. I therefore called the boat on board again, on which the natives remained quiet for some time, until the number of their prahus increased to twelve, when they suddenly rowed towards the brig with 36 NEW GUINEA. a loud shoutj stopping, however, wlien still at a little distance. I again showed them the presents, and called to them in the Papuan language, but with the same result as before. I then again sent the boat towards them, without the interpreter being able to get near ; and it had no sooner commenced returning than the natives followed with loud cries, taking up their bows and arrows, but stopping short when the people in the boat ceased rowing. This mode of proceeding continued for some time, and at length, seeing that the natives had their bows strung ready for attack, I fired a blank cartridge towards them, on which they all threw themselves flat on their faces for a few moments, and then paddled away for the shore with all their might. "These people appeared to be of large stature, with jet- black skins, and curled hair. They went entirely naked, and no scarifj'ing of the skin, or other mode of orna- menting, was visible on their persons. In two of the prahus I remarked several men whose skins were of a whitish colour. They appeared to be chiefly young men, not one among them being advanced in years. Two of the oldest-looking wore the skins of animals. "While the prahus were pulling towards shore, a man stood up in one of them, with a thick bamboo in his hand, out of which he threw something that appeared to me to be ashes. When the boat approached them they also threw water up in the air, and showed their teeth like enraged dogs. ]\Iy interpreter assured me that these people were so inhuman as to devour their prisoners taken in war, which appeared probable enough, if we may judge from the above grimaces. SOUTH-WEST COAST. 37 " The huts of these negroes, which are scattered along the beach, are low and open on all sides : the soil around the village was white sand, on which numbers of large trees grew, many casuarinas being among them. A siliall river ran into a bay immediately opposite to our an- chorage. On going on shore we were as unsuccessful as on the water, in our attempts to communicate with these shy people, as they always fled on our approach, and climbed into the trees at a distance. To judge from the number of houses and men that we saw, the coast hereabouts must be very populous. We saw at a distance some other houses, which appeared to be much larger than those on the beach. Some bones, probably those of buflfaloes, were met with, but not the least trace of agri- culture, arts, or civilization. I was sorry, nevertheless, at not being able to communicate with the natives, and the next morning I continued my voyage, it being tolerably certaia that all endeavours to make friends with them would be fruitless.'"* The people described by Mr. Kolff as having ^' w4iitish" skins, were probably afflicted with ichthyosis, a disease which gives the skin a leprous, scaly appearance, and is very prevalent among all the coast tribes of the Archipelago ; but it is more striking among the Papuans, owing to the little clothing they w^ar, and the contrast which the diseased parts present to the natural dark colour of the skin. Mr. Kolff also notices the practice which attracted the attention of Captain Cook and his companions, and led them at first to suppose that the * " Voyage of the ' Dourga,' " &c., p. 323 et seq. 38 NEW GUINEA. natives of this part of New Guinea were in possession of fire-arms. As the curiosity excited by Captain Cook^s account of his short visit to this neighbourhood has never yet' been satisfied^ it will be necessary to extract at length the evidence given by the Dutch voyagers respecting this practice. It was first observed by the officers of the ' Triton^ on a part of the coast about eighty miles to the north-west of the village seen by Captain Cook and Lieutenant KolflP, where the natives were very numerous ; bat so shy^ that after many attempts it was found impos- sible to open a communication with them. Mr. Modera^s account of the practice is as follows : '* Several men were seen standing on the beach, waving a short piece of bamboo, out of which there issued each time something like smoke, but without fire being observed. The interpreter said (and it subse- quently proved to be the case on our having opportunities of handling them) that they had a mixture of lime, ashes, and sand, which they threw out above them in order to show where they were {om zich te doen verkennen.'^)^ Dr. Miiller^s account is more full, but scarcely more satisfactory. After noticing Captain Cook^s narrative of his interview with the natives, and Captain Hunter's suggestions as to the material used, he says : " We observed this practice among the coast inhabitants, met with between the meridians of 136° and 137° E. ; and Captain Cook as well as Lieutenant Kolff witnessed it a degree and a half further to the eastward. However, we never observed it in use among the natives of Prinses- * " Reize," (Src, p. 51. SOUTH-WEST COAST. 39 Marianne (Dourga) Strait^ nor among the inhabitants of Lobo (the district in which Triton Bay is situated), and the neighbourhood. It was the opinion of our inter- preters that the custom was adopted chiefly for purposes of mutual recognition between parties at a distance from each other [om zich onderling op eenigen af stand te doen verkennen). It should also be noticed that, according to the best of our observation^ it was used when they met strangers with friendly intentions, as well as when .they wished to show open enmity, or when they took to flight from mistrust. The interpreter, Patty Barombang, was under the impression that a sidelong or horizontal pro- jection of the composition showed pacific intentions ; but that when thrown upwards in the air it indicated a chal- lenge, or an intention to resist. It also appeared to us by no means improbable that this tube may be used as a sort of weapon for throwing a pain-creating dust into the eyes of enemies.^^* The interpreter's suggestion, as to a sidelong projection indicating pacific iotentions, does not agree with Captain Cook^s experience. The custom itself is evidently of a local character, as it has never been observed elsewhere in New Guinea. Possibly it may have originated in a rude attempt of a peculiarly imitative people, to produce something resembling the discharges of jnusketiy from which they had sufi'ered at the hands of the earher Euro- pean navigators. The south-west coast of New Guinea, between the Dourga Strait and the Outanata River, must be well- * "Bijdi'agen tot de Kennis van Nieuw Guinea," p. 55. 40 XEW GUINEA. peopled^ for during the progress of the ' Triton ' numbers of the natives were seen either running to and fro on the beach, making demonstrations with their bamboo tubes, or paddling about in canoes : but always keeping at too great a distance from the ship, or from the boats that were sent to meet them, to permit of close intercourse ; every attempt to get near them, being followed by imme- diate flight on the part of the Papuans, whose curiosity, however, prompted them to return towards the vessels the moment that pursuit was discontinued. It was not until the Expedition approached the Outanata River, which lies 250 miles to the north-west of Dourga Strait, that a closer intercourse was established ; and then the natives came alongside the ' Triton^ with a boldness and confidence that presented a remarkable contrast to the timid shyness of their predecessors. But we must quote Mr. Modera's own description of this interesting event : — " At break of day on the 9th of June, we saw a num- ber of prahus following the schooner, each of which contained from five to twelve natives, who paddled stand- ing,* like those we had seen on the 6th. Lieutenant TuUekens went towards them with an armed boat, in * The practice of standing up to paddle their canoes is repeatedly noticed by Lieutenants Kolff and Modera, and it seems to he general throughout the coasts of New Guinea. The brown-coloured natives of the Archipelago all sit, or "squat," while paddling their canoes, excepting the Badju Laut, or Sea Gypsies, who stand, like the Papuans, and give as a reason for this proceediug, the superior facilities it affords them of seeing turtle, and of chasmg them when discovered. — G. W. E. OUTAXATA RIVER. 41 which Mr. Van Delden and an interpreter were also embarked^ in order to open a communication ; on which the natives advanced to meet the boat, and immediately afterwards two of their prahus came alongside the ' Triton/ and put a couple of natives on board, who came up the ship^s side with great confidence, making signs that they wanted some cloth, a few pieces of which were given to them. The boat which had been dis- patched to meet the prahus, returned to the ship soon afterwards, with four of the natives sitting veiy com- fortably in it, and the prahus following; but all of a sudden, and without any apparent cause, the two prahus that were alongside started away from the ship, and the four natives in the boat jumped overboard, and swam to their prahus, which then pulled towards the schooner, the latter vessel being at some distance from the 'Triton,' and out of reach of her guns. The commander of the ' Triton' thinking that a plan had been formed to cut off the schooner, sent Lieutenants Tjassens and Modera with the barge and pinnace, fully manned and armed, to her assistance : but fortunately this was not required, for the prahus kept at a distance behind the schooner; and although the natives were armed, and far exceeded in numbers the united crews of the schooner and the two boats, they appeared to have no hostile intentions. At length one of the prahus rowed slowly and cautiously alongside the 'Triton,' and at the same time several others approached the schooner, and commenced bar- tering away their weapons to the crew. A breeze springing up soon afterwards, enabled the ' Iris' to make sail and join the 'Triton.' Both vessels now proceeded 42 NEW GUINEA. together, accompanied by the prahus, which visited each vessel alternately/^* A friendly intercourse was now established, which continued uninterrupted during the twelve days^ stay of the Expedition in this neighbourhood, and afforded the officers a very favourable opportunity of acquiring in- formation concerning one of the most powerful tribes yet encountered on the coasts of New Guinea, whether as regards numbers or individual proportions. Mr. Modera^s account of this tribe will be read with the greatest interest by the philanthropist as well as by the scientific ethnographer, as it will enable them to realise the statements of Yalentyn, and other old historians, respecting the former power of the Papuans. The flotilla of light prahus met with on this occasion, many miles distant from the spot inhabited by the tribe, was e^-i- dently fitted out for some warlike purpose — possibly to decide a dispute with some neighbouring village ; but the natives were evidently well-disposed towards the European strangers; and the decks of the vessels are described by Mr. Modera as having been like a fair during the latter part of the day on which they were first met with, owing to the brisk trade that was carried on : the natives exchanging their bows, arrows, spears, war- clubs, paddles, and personal ornaments, for pieces of cloth, knives, empty bottles, looking-glasses and beads ; the two latter articles, however, being in no crreat demand. Soon after sunset, the ship and the schooner anchored * " Reize naar de zuid-west Kust van Nieuw Guinea," p. 61. OUTANATA RIVER. 43 for the night off the coast, being still thirty miles short of the Outanata River, which the commander of the Expedition had now determined to visit. Soon after sunset, all the natives left the vessels, and pulled towards the shore ; but on the following moniing they returned, brinsinir the head chief with them, who, however, had probably been present during the previous interview, but had thought fit to preserve his incognito, until an oppor- tunity occurred for consultation with the other chiefs respecting future proceedings. In the following description of the tribe, which was first made knowTi to the world through the medium of Lieutenant ]\Iodera^s publication^ his clear narrative will be quoted at length where the information connected with the natives is unmixed with hydrographical details, to which, as one of the surveying officers of the Expedi- tion, his attention appears to have been more especially directed. The first extract describes the inter\'iew which took place on the occasion of the ceremonial visit of the Papuan chief, and which seems to have led the Dutch authorities to determine on fixing their new settlement within his territories, in the event of a convenient port being met with. " On the morning of the 10th of June, a number of canoes again visited the schooner; and soon afterwards the commander, Mr, Bastiaanse, repaired on board the ' Triton,^ bringing with him a Papuan, clad in a Malayan kahaya, or loose coat*, and with a handkerchief tied round the head, from the folds of which he produced a written paper, and submitted it to Captain Steenboon for perusal. It proved to be nothing more than a charm 44 NEW GUINEA. (perhaps a sentence from the Koran), written in the Malayan character, and which had probably been given him by a Mohammedan priest from Ceram ; for according to the account of the native interpreter who trans- lated it, the people of Ceram carry on a trade with the Outanata Kiver, a fact which was afterwards confirmed by our being shown the houses in which the traders reside during their stay upon the coast. Our new friend called himself Abrauw [anglice, Abraham), and was well ac- quainted with our native interpreter, as was evident from the joy he displayed on recognising him. The interpreter had often spoken of an 'Abrauw' and a ' Makaai' as chiefs of the Outanata, and the latter we became acquainted with subsequently. " Abrauw, according to his own account, was the chief of all the Papuans who had visited us on the preceding day. The Commander and the Commissioner took him into the cabin to hold a conference, and they were able to get on very well, for although the native interpreter was only slightly acquainted with the Papuan language, Abrauw, from having personally visited Ceram, and held long intercourse with the traders, was well acquainted with the Ceram dialect, the mother tongue of the inter- preter.* During the audience, which lasted for some time, his people jhowed great uneasiness, shouting re- peatedly '^ Abrauw!' as loud as they could, so that his sable Majesty was obliged now and then to show himself * The dialects of Ceram differ materially from the Malayan, but the interpreters are also acquainted with the latter language, which, as the Lingua Franca of the Archipelago, is acquired by all Euro- peans who become residents there. — G. W. E. OUTAXATA RIVER. 45 at the stern windows to his naked, but apparently faith- ful, subjects. '^ On his departure, he left five of his people with us to point out the mouth of the river, and promised to return in the afternoon with refreshments. He left us with his hands full of presents, which he had received right and left, and all his people followed, with the excep- tion of the five pilots above-mentioned. The latter were also well suj^plied with presents, and we were enabled to hold full communication with them by means of the native interpreter. The effect of fire-arms was not alto- gether unkno\\Ti to them, for wlien we informed them that we were going to fire, but that they must not be afraid, they willingly consented, and showed by signs that when the Ceramese fired from theii* prahus, they were in the habit of diving under water. However, a blank cartridge, fired from a musket, startled them a little, but they afterwards burst out into a shout of lau^hter.^^* The natives were also astonished by a display of European skill in breaking bottles suspended under the yard-arm with musket-shots, by the ticking of a watch, and other modes in which Europeans delight in showing their superiority over their savage friends; but ^Ir. Modera rather naively expresses his own surprise at the imperturbable coolness of Abrauw and two minor chiefs who came on board in the afternoon, and who seem to have rivalled more civilized aristocrats in their determina- tion not to be astonished at anything that they saw or heard. * ^'Reize," or were placed standing against the outside of the house, while their fishing-net was spread over the roof to diy. This house had been erected since the arrival of the Expedition, the work having been entirely performed by the women and girls. Immediately behind was another house, much larger, and erected upon piles, which we were informed belonged to the Ceram traders, who resided there during their annual visit. " We saw a number of half- starved, ugly-looking dogs, but soon found that little else was to be looked for in the way of domestic animals. Some pigs were seen, and the natives appeared to have a number of them, but we were unable to purchase any ; for on one occasion, when D 2 OZ NEW GUINEA. Mr. Bastiaanse succeeded in obtaining one in exchange for some cloth, they appeared to repent so of their bar- gain, and commenced such a howling when he wanted to take it awaj-, that he was obliged to return it. Sago, fish and shell-fish, and turtle-eggs, are the chief food of the Outanatas. They brought us some bananas, cocoa-nuts, papayas, nutmegs, bread-fruit, and very large oranges, which were bartered for all sorts of cloth, so that we are in a position to state that the former are grown here. Mr. Zippelius (the botanist to the Expedition) found, among other known and unknown plants, the Tacca-pinnatifida, a root which, when dried in the sun and afterwards baked, has some resemblance to our potato, and is used as a substitute for that root in the South-Sea Islands. A couple of turtle-shells hanging to the trees, and a number of turtle-eggs which we saw in the possession of the natives, showed that these animals existed, but we did not meet with any. The river yields many excellent fish, some of which were new varieties.^^* The circumstances under which the village at the mouth of the Outanata was erected, subsequent to the arrival of the Expedition, show that this spot is only occupied occasionally by the tribe, probably during the season in which the Ceram traders visit the coast. The plantations, which, in addition to the articles mentioned by Mr. Modera, produce yams, sugar-cane, and Chili-pepper,t are situated towards the upper parts of the river, where the more permanent habitations of the natives may also * Modera, " Reize," &c., pp. 7^ et seq. t Dr. Miiller, "Bijdragcn/' (S:c., p. 50. OUTANATA RIVER. 53 be found. The boats of the Expedition seera to have been too busily employed in wooding and watering to admit of an exploration of the river towards its sources. Had the case been otherwise, the speculations as to the interior of New Guinea being occupied by a dififerent people from the coast tribes, which are supported to a certain extent by Dr. Miiller, would have been determined one way or the other, at least as far as regards the south- western part of the island. The information collected by the Dutch Expedition leaves it a matter of doubt whether the Outanatas are an inland or a coast tribe, although the weight of the evidence is certainly in favour of the former position. In that case, the tiotilla met with on the coast at a distance of more than thirty miles from the mouth of the river, may resemble in its character the " bala^' of the inland inhabitants of Borneo, which oc- casionally descend the rivers of that island to sweep the adjacent coasts. This matter assumes an ethnographical importance when viewed in conjunction with the fact, that the habitations of the Papuans of Dori, on the north coast of New Guinea {vide post) ; those of the south coast seen by Captain Blackwood, R.N., of H.M.S. ^ Fly/ and also those of the inland parts of the south-west coast,* (according to the information of the natives) ; consist of single large houses, erected on posts or piles, each being occupied by several families, indeed, sometimes by an entire tribe. The flotillas which formerly issued from the rivers and inlets of the west coast of New Guinea, receiving an * Dr. Miiller, "Bijdragen tot de Keniiis van Nieuw Guinea," p. 34. 54 NEW GUINEA. accession of force from the neigbbouring islands, appear to bave been of a very formidable cbaracter. Yalentyn, a bigb authority, speaks of it as a system of piracy, with established receptacles for the sale of plunder, Kke that of the modern Lanuns of Mindanao and Sulu;* and we shall have occasion to quote Fon-est's account of the last formidable Papuan flotilla which invaded Moluccan waters, when treating of the natives of My sol. Indeed, according to Lieutenant Kolff, probably the best modern authority on piracy in these seas, the Papuans of the Gulf of Ouin, or MacCluer^s Inlet, still send out occasional expeditions of a predatoiy character.f And, according to the writer^s own experience, these expeditions are \4ewed with considerable dread by the native traders ; for, although their own vessels are rarely, if ever, attacked, yet the news of the Onin flotilla being " out, " drives the coast natives of the neighbourhood to their strongholds, and all hopes of trade dm-ing the season are put an end to. It will also be seen from Mr. Modera^s account of the natives of Triton Bay, which we shall have to quote presently, that the warriors of Onin are as formidable in the eyes of their more peaceably disposed neighboui*s, as were the Norse Pii-ates of old in those of the coast inhabitants of Britain. The region we are now about to enter, which comprises the southern portion of the Western Peninsula of New Guinea, has been subjected to the influence, and, in a partial degree, to the rule, of the Mohammedans of Ceram * Yalentyn, " Bcschrijving vau Amboina/' pp. 53, 54, and 57. "Ambonsche Zaakeu," p. 190. t Kolff, '' Voyage of the ' Dourga,' " p. 299. WEST COAST. 00 and the Moluccas, during several centuries. This part of the coast was scarcely known to Europeans until within the last twenty-five years, for although some of the more prominent points had been laid down by passing navi- gators, no record exists of an actual visit to the coast until 1826, when Lieutenant Kolfi" touched at Lakahya, an islet near the head of the bight which separates the peninsulas to the south : but meeting with a hostile recep- tion, he left without ascertaining any important particulars concerning the inhabitants.* The Expedition of 1828 was more successful, for when the vessels had advanced about a hundred miles to the westward of the Outanata River, they were visited by several small Papuan prahus ; the crews of which came alongside the ships with great confidence, and conducted them to a snug cove in an island near the main land. On the shores of the cove was found a little Papuan paradise, consisting of a valley over- grown with cocoa-nut- trees, under the shade of which was a neat little house, constructed after the ^lalayan fashion, that had once been the residence of the Ceramese priest who had converted the neighbouring population to Mo- hammedanism. The settlement, which it was the chief object of the Dutch Expedition to form, was at length established on the shores of a deep inlet of the main-land, distant a few miles from this cove. The swampy nature of the land on which the fortified \dllage was erected, and the oppressive nature of the atmosphere, owing to the inlet being impervious to the sea-breeze, seem to have foreboded the fate of the Dutch settlement even before the * Kolff, " Yovage of the ' Dourga,' " chap. xx. 56 NEW GUINEA. garrison had been landed. It was abandoned ten years afterwards (1838), when the garrison v/as removed to Wahaai, a small port on the north coast of Ceram_, which was much resorted to by English and American whale- ships about that time. The following particulars respect- ing the natives in the neighbourhood of the settlement at Triton Bay are extracted from Lieutenant Modera's narrative : '^ The inhabitants of Aiduma, Dramaai, Lobo, and the neighbouring islands (the tribes around the new settle- ment), are of the same complexion with the Outanatas, are afflicted with the same cutaneous disease, and have also crisp hair, but they do not plait it like the Outanatas, although this practice is adopted by some of the 'Al- foeren,' or mountaineers. Neither do they bore the septum of the nose, their ornaments consisting of bracelets and bangles of rattan and swine's-teeth, and sometimes of strings of glass beads, which are also worn about the neck. A band of cocoa-nut cloth is worn round the waist and between the legs, which gives them a more decent appearance than the Outanatas and Dourgas. This want of clothing makes them also anxious to obtain sarongs, haudker chiefs, kabayas and any other articles that serve to cover the body. They are by no means so handsome and well-formed a race as the Outa- natas : on the contrary, therc are many small and badly- proportioned men among them, and, upon the whole, they cannot be considered as more than a middle-sized race, yet many of the ' Alfoeren,^ or mountaineei's, are of large stature. Neither are their countenances so open and prepossessing as those of the Outanatas^, but they have TRITON BAY. 57 this in common^ that both are great admirers of tobacco and strong liquors, and their weapons are absolutely identical/^ The chiefs were all clad in the Malayan fashion, the materials being obtained from the Ceram traders. Their canoes are also provided with outriggers like those of the Moluccas, and the larger prahus are covered with roofs of atap, or marsh flags, under which entire families are occasionally housed. Their habitations on shore, also, like those of the Malays, are erected on wooden piles, and constmcted of bamboos and atap. The general effect of this intercourse on the character of the Papuans in this neio-hbourhood must be told in Mr. ^lodera^s own im- o pressive words : "It has been already mentioned that the people of Ceram carry on a trade with the Papuans, more espe- cially with those who reside hereabouts. This intercourse is carried on with the greatest precaution on the part of the Papuans, as they are constantly liable to the trea- cherous attacks of the people of Onin,* who rob them of their wives and children, for the purpose of selling them to the Ceramese, Chinese, and Macassar traders : — a system of plunder in which the Ceramese themselves are also said to indulge, and which naturally gives rise to a general feeling of distrust among the Papuans. We attributed the circumstance of our seeing so few women at Triton^s Bay to this want of confidence in strangers. The inhabitants of an island called Karas, in the neigh- bourhood of Ouin, also attack them occasionally. They * A Papuan tribe inhabiting tlie shores of MacCluer's Inlet. — G. W. E. D 3 58 NEW GUINEA. come in prahus, sometimes a hundred in number, with the sole object of robbery and murder. Not long before our arrival; the village Warangara, on the shores of Triton^s Bay, was surprised by one of these expeditions, and almost entirely destroyed. The women who fell into their hands were carried away into captivity, and the men were murdered. The Papuans of this neighbourhood are not entii'ely guiltless themselves, as they sell the slaves brought here fi'om the Bay of Ai'goeni, and which have probably been stolen or carried away by \dolence, to the Ceramese.^^ The Ceramese traders remain upon the coast four or five months on the occasion of each ^dsit, as the produce is brought in veiy slowly by the mountaineers, who are the chief collectors. The principal articles obtained from the interior are the odoriferous bark of the Massoi, Belishary, and Rosamala, which are extensively used among the islands of the Archipelago, more especially Java and Bali, as cosmetics, and, it is said, as medicine ; also dye-woods, nutmegs, the skins of birds of paradise, edible birds^ nests, li\e cockatoos, lories, and crowned pigeons : many of the tliree last eventually reaching China, Hindostan, and even Europe, by way of our settlement at Singapore. The extract from Lieutenant Kolff^s " Voyage of the ^ Dourga^ " given below, conveys a general view of the natives of the west coast of New Guinea, which the writer has been able to confirm by the testimony of several well-informed and trustworthy native traders of Goram and Ceram-Laut, except on the points regarding the comparative power of the coast and inland tribes, and ONIN. 59 their asserted practice of cannibalism, which last is dis- tinctly denied by many of the better-informed native traders. All the authentic information obtained by the writer, concurred in representing the most numerous and powerful tribes as dwelling near the head waters of streams which were inaccessible to the prahus of the traders, although navigable by their own light vessels. The people of Onin, who have been considered from time immemorial as the most numerous and best organised of the New Guinea tribes, aod whose country has never yet been visited either by Europeans or by native traders, are said to occupy an elevated table-land, of an open cha- racter, which is penetrated by MacCluer's Inlet. They hold intercourse with two or three traders from Ceram- Laut, with whom they have established an intimacy, and from whom they expect an annual visit at certain spots on the shores of the inlet, which have been fixed upon as trading-stations ; and where houses are erected, as at the Outanata, for the accommodation of traders during their stay. Their occasional outbreaks on the neighbouring waters are said to be the result of a spirit of restlessness, which finds vent whenever a young chief desires to sig- nalise himself by making a raid on his neighbours. Their conduct towards the traders with whom they are well acquainted, is described by the latter as being very exem- plary ; and their testimony upon this point does them the greater credit, as their interests would lead them to re- present the Papuans of Onin in an unfavourable light, with the view of deterring others from interfering with the lucrative traffic which they now engross. Among the articles taken to Onin by the traders from Ceram-Laut 60 NEW GUINEA. are some of great value. In fact^ tlie goods adapted for the consumption of Onin are nearly identical with those required for the trade with the Arru islanders, which will be detailed in a subsequent chapter. It will suffice, at present, to state, that elephants^ tusks and' large porcelain dishes, on which the natives place an enormous artificial value, are among the number. " The people of Papua-Oni (Onin) and of Amalas, two places on the coast of New Guinea, directly east from Ceram-Laut, send out, every year, from a hundred to a hundred and twenty small vessels on piratical excursions, which proceed to a considerable distance from their homes. Their mode of warfare is rude in the extreme — their weapons consisting only of bows, arrows, and spears. I have been assured that they devour the prisoners they take during these excursions. They entertain considerable dread of the Ceramese, and carefully avoid doing them or theirs any injury. According to the information I re- ceived from some inhabitants of Ceram-Laut, the natives of New Guinea are divided into two tribes (races ?), mountaineers and dwellers on the coast, who are con- tinually waging war with each other. The people occu- pying the sea-coast form by far the' smaller portion, but, from their warlike habits, they find no difficulty in main- taining a superiority. The captives taken by the latter from the inferior tribes are sold to the foreign traders, by whom they are held in high esteem, so much so that their price is higher even than that given for slaves of Bali, Lombok and Sumbawa. The women from Koby, Ay and Karas, are considered the most attractive, and arc often kept as inferior wives by the Ceramese — the ■WEST COAST. 61 Raja of Kilwari; among others^ having a wife born at the Papuan nllage of Atti-Atti. The price given for a slave on the coast is usually two pieces of white calico, valued at from eight to ten Spanish dollars ; — from sixty to seventy rupees (five to six pounds sterling) being obtained by the traders for them at Bali, and other places in that direc- tion/'* Mr. !Modera gives some interesting details concerning the customs of the mountaineers, (AJfoeren of Bt^rg- bewonersj in the neighbourhood of Triton's Bay ; but at the same time candidly states that the information obtained, as being derived from the chiefs of the coast tribes, was by no means satisfactory. Indeed the inhabi- tants of the coasts, especially if corrupted by Mohamme- danism, are interested in making the inland inhabitants appear in the worst possible light, partly \N-ith the view of deterring Europeans from holding intercourse with them, which might seriously impair their own influence, and partly to enhance the value of their own semi-civilization in the estimation of their visitors. One important ethno- graphical fact was, however, ascertained by the officers of this Expedition ; namely, that the inhabitants of the interior, of whom they saw several specimens, did not differ in any essential particular from those of the coast. Until within the last few years, it was considered by ethnographers that the Alfoeren, Alfours, or Arafuras, were a distinct race of people, inhabiting the interior of New Guinea, Ceram, and all the larger islands in the south-eastern part of the Indian Archipelago ; and I was * Kolff, " Voyage of the ' Dourga,' " p. 299. 62 XE^y guixea. led to form the same opinion by the information I obtained during a visit to the western parts of the Archipelago in 1832-33-34 from the native traders, who at that time^ as in the days of Ptolemy the Alexan- drian^ were the chief sources of information respecting New Guinea and the remote eastern islands. The inquiries that I was subsequently enabled to make on the spot, while attached to the Port Essington settle- ment, led me to ascertain that Alfoeren, &c., was not a generic tei-m for a particular race of people ; but was generally applied to the inland inhabitants of these islands, to distinguish them from the coast tribes, and that it was in common use amono: those who were ac- quainted with the Moluccan dialect of the Malayan language. I was also led to suspect that the term would prove to be of Portuguese origin, as is the case with many other words in that language, and this opinion was confirmed by a learned and experienced Portuguese gentleman, (the Comendador dWlmeida, Consul-General of Portugal at Singapore, and one of the earlier pioneers of that settlement,) whom I had an opportunity of con- sulting in 1845, aud who informed me that the terra "Alfores,'^ or '' Alforias,^^ was formerly applied in the same sense by the Portuguese in India ; precisely as the Spaniards called the aborigiues of America " Indios,^^ or Indians, and the Mohammedan inhctbitants of Sulu and IMindano "Moros," or Moors. The Portuguese term " Alforias " signifies " freed-men,^^ or '' manumitted slaves ;" but the root ^' fora " means '' o\x{," or " out- side,^^ and therefore the term " Alfores^' became naturally applied to the independent tribes who dwelt beyond the WEST COAST. 63 influence of their coast settlements. I communicated these particulars to the late Dr. Prichard^ the father of ethnographical science in this country, soon after my arrival in England, in 1845, and have every reason to believe that he considered the explanation as satisfactory.* It should be mentioned that I am individually interested in maintaining the name, as I have frequently alluded to the " Arafuras '^ in my earlier writings, and it was at my suggestion that the Hydrographer of the Admiralty applied the name to the sea enclosed by Ceram and the adjacent coasts of Australia and New Guinea, in a chart and sailing directions published by that department in the year 1837. * See Prichard, "Researches iato the Physical History of Mankind," vol. v, p. 256. 64 NEW GUINEA, CHAPTER IV. N'EW GUINEA. NORTH COAST. EARLY VOYAGERS TO THE NORTH COAST OF NEW GUINEA — DUTCH EXPEDITION OF 1850 — CHARACTERISTICS OF THE DORY PAPUANS DRESS SCARIFICATIONS OF THE BODY ORNAMENTS OCCUPATIONS FOOD AND LUXURIES HABITATIONS AND HOUSEHOLD GEAR ARTS AND AGRICULTURE ARMS AND IMPLEMENTS NAVIGATION AND COMMERCE CHARACTER AND DISPOSITION GOVERNMENT AND LAWS CUSTOMS, SOCIAL AND RELIGIOUS THE " HONGI," OR TIDORE FLOTILLA NATIVES OF RUN, IN THE GREAT BAY VISIT TO A PAPUAN FAMILY KURUDU A DESERTED VILLAGE THE AMBERMO RIVER DUTCH SETTLEMENT AT HUMBOLDT BAY. The inhabitants of the north coast of New Guinea have been known to Europeans from the earliest period of their intercourse with the Indian Archipelago. In the year 1511, DMbreu and Serranno, who had been chs- patched to the Spice Islands by Albuquerque, the con- queror of Malacca, brought back accounts of their having met with individuals of a race totally diflferent from the Malayans; and in 1527, Alvaro de Saavedra made the first recorded visit to the island, which was then named " Nova Guinea,^^ from a resemblance that the inhabitants were thouirht to bear to those of the coast of Guinea in NORTH COAST. 65 Africa. During the seventeentli and eighteenth centuries, the northern coasts were repeatedly visited by Dutch and English navigators. In 1774, Captain Thomas Forrest, who had been dispatched by the English East India Company to search for districts producing spices, resided for some months at Port Dory, on the north coast of New Guinea, during which period he held constant friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. But in those days the characteristics of the native races were scarcely noticed, except as regarded their " importance^^ to the trading companies which had fitted out the expeditions. This dearth of information has been severely felt by historians of the Indian Archipelago. During the present century, however, the spread of knowledge and civilization in Europe and America has given rise to an interest in the less fortunate races of mankind, which eveiy scientific voyager feels bound to acknowledge, by making their characteiistics a leading subject of inquiry ; and the French navigators who have visited the north coast of New Guinea during the present century have furnished particulars respecting the native inhabitants, which have served, in a great degree, to dispel the mystery that had hitherto enveloped this interesting race. More recently, an expedition sent from the Moluccas by the Netherlands Government, to annex the north coast of this island to its possessions in the East, has added many important particulars to our knowledge of the Papuans. The Expedition, which consisted of the war- schooner 'Circe,' Lieutenant Brutel de la Riviere, and a small fleet of kora-koras, or war-prahus, belonging to the 66 NEW GUINEA. Sultan of Tidore, left Ternate in March, 1850, and pro- ceeded in the fii'st instance to Port Dory, touching at Geby, or Gibby, an island well known to mariners using the eastern passages to China, on the route. The com- mand of the Expedition was intrusted to Mr. Van Den Dungen Gronovius, a gentleman of great colonial expe- rience, who had been for several years the government resident of the Dutch possessions in Timor; and a quantity of presents for the native chiefs, together with a number of iron plates, displaying the Netherlands^ arms, which were intended to be set up on the parts of the coast Wsited by the Expedition, formed part of the schooner's lading. The Commissioner was also invested with some kind of authority by the Sultan of Tidore, a tributary, or rather pensioner, of the Dutch Governmeut, who had long claimed a sort of " suzerainty^^ over the northern and eastern coast of New Guinea, and which he had been in the habit of enforcing by the periodical dis- patch of a flotilla of kora-koras, similar to that which attended the war-schooner on the present occasion. A very interestiug narrative of the voyage of the ' Circe,' by Lieutenant Bruijn Kops, one of the officers, was published in the " Natuurkundige Tijdschrift voor Nederlandsch Indie" for 1S51, a periodical conducted by the Baron Mehille van Carnbee, himself a valuable contributor to the ethnography of the Indian Archipelago. Lieutenant Bruijn Kops' narrative gives veiy copious details of the habits and characteristics of the tribes inhabiting the shores of the Great Bay which separates the western from the eastern peninsula of New Guinea ; PORT DORY. 67 and his information is the more valuable^ from the oppor- tunities afforded him, through the medium of the native interpreters attached to the Expedition, for obtaining correct particulars, and from the humane and considerate feeling which he has evidently brought to the task.* This officer had also the assistance of Mr. C. F. A. Schneider, the surgeon to the Expedition, the value of whose contributions are gratefully acknowledged by him. The north-western peninsula of New Guinea is said to be well peopled towards the interior, but the coasts ap- pear to be quite deserted, except at a few points where small trading stations have become established; for one of the leading characteristics of Papuans generally, and of those of New Guinea in particular, consists in their ardent desire to obtain the manufactures of foreign countiies, however great may be the risks they undergo in gratifying this propensity. Port Doiy, near the north-eastern extreme of this tract, has been its chief trading port from time immemorial ; and although the native inhabitants cannot be brought forward as a type of Papuans, yet, on account of their present condition, they are exceedingly well calculated to display the result of intercourse with more civilized races. Several voyagers of high authority have suspected that the Dorians are of a mixed race^ but those who peruse Mr. Bruijn Kops' * A full translation of Lieutenant Brujjn Kops narrative will be found in the "Journal of the Indian Ai-chipelago," for June, 1S52. 68 NEW GUINEA. narrative with attention will find grounds for a contrary opinion. People of the mixed race are to be found in numbers on every inhabited island of the Moluccan Seas, but very rarely in New Guinea itself, a fact which is readily ex- plained by the circumstance of Papuan slaves, to the annual amount of hundreds and even thousands, having been exported from New Guinea to the westward for ages past ; while scarcely an instance can be brought forward of a member of the brown race becoming even a tem- porary resident in New Guinea beyond the limits of the trading season, except in the case of the Mohammedan priests, who take up their abode there occasionally for years together. And in entertaining speculations on these points, it must always be taken into consideration that the Papuans are beyond all comparison superior in vigour, both mental and physical, to those tribes of the brown race with whom they are brought in contact. It will only be necessary farther to state that Mr. Bruijn Kops appears to be perfectly free from all ethnological theories ; and therefore the following description of the personal cha- racteristics of the natives of Dory, must be looked upon as a piece of unbiassed testimony. The translation here given is as close as the spirit of the two languages will admit. " The population of New Guinea divides itself into Pa- poeers and Alfoeren. The first inhabit the shores, and the latter the mountains and interior lands (binnenlanden.) Both these head-classes are divided into different tribes, who are generally in a state of hostility towards each other. The Papoeers of Dory are of the caste ^ Myfory,^ PORT DORY. 69 having their origin in the island of that name (called Long Island in the English charts), which lies about ten (forty English) miles to the east of Doiy. In general they are small in stature [klein van gestaalte), mostly five and a quarter, and only a few as much as five and a half feet in height. "With the exception of a hunchback {een gebogchelden), we saw no deformed people, nor any parti- cularly stout or lean men. Their colour is dark brown, that of some people inclining to black. I saw here two Albino children (of the same mother) with white skins, approaching to yellow, with some brown spots on the back, and with white crisp hair, and blue or green eyes. The natives are generally afi'ected with diseases of the skin ; ^-ith some of them the skin looks as if it was covered with scales (ichthyosis). The hair is black and crisp. Some of them have it tinted red at the outer ends, which, I think, must be attributed to its being dried by the intense heat. They usually wear the hair at the full length to which it is inclined to grow, which makes the head, when seen from a distance, appear to be nearly twice its real size. In general they bestow little care upon it, whereby it has a disorderly appearance, and gives them a wild aspect. There are some, however, whose hair, either by art or nature, is smooth and even as if it had been clipped. The men wear in their hair a comb, consisting of a stick of bamboo, one end of which is split into three or four long points, like a fork, while the other end is shaped ofi" to a point, and is gene- rally car^-ed. This comb is stuck obliquely into the hair of the head, and a strip of coloured calico is fastened to the upper end, which hangs from it Hke a 70 NEW GUINEA. flag.* The women do not wear this ornament. The beard is strongly crisped^ but short. I believe the hair of the beard is sometimes plucked out. Most of the Papuans have a high but narrow forehead {een hoog, dock smal voorhoofd) ; large, dark brown or black eyes ; flat, broad noses, large mouths, with thick lips, and good teeth. Many of them, however, have narrow, arched igebogen) noses, and thin lips, which gives them an European cast of countenance. They pierce the ears, and insert in the orifice, ornaments, or segars of tobacco rolled in pan- dan-\e2iij of which they are great consumers. The expression of the Papoeers is dull and stupid ; most of them are veiy ugly ; only a few of them have regular features and a lively aspect/'f The occurrence of European or Caucasian features among the Papuans of New Guinea and the neighbouring islands has been frequently noticed by visitors, and the same peculiarity is often met with among the com- paratively fair tribes of Timor-Laut and the eastern islands of the Serwatty group, between whom and the Papuans so remarkable an affinity exists on nearly every other particular excepting complexion, that a close investigation is necessar}^ before any satisfactory con- clusion can be arrived at respecting the origin of these races. But no tribe has yet been met with in. these eastern countries in which the Caucasian features prevail, so that they must be considered as individual peculiarities. * This singular fasliion is well represented in the plate of the Papuan in Dr. Prichard's " Natural History of Man." t Bruijn Kops, " Natuurkmidige Tijdschrift, &c., 2de Jaargang," bl. 175. PORT DORY. 71 Costume and Ornaments. — The dresses of the chiefs among the natives of Dory consist of the saluer, or short drawers of the Malays, and the kahya, or loose coat of calico, with a handkerchief tied round the head. The common men, and the chiefs themselves when not in the presence of strangers, wear only a chaivat, or waist-cloth of the bark of the fig, or of the paper-mulberry-tree, beaten out like the bark-cloth of the Polynesians. The women wear a short petticoat of blue calico, or short, loose drawers, and very rarely any other clothing. The ears of both sexes are bored, but the septum of the nose is never mutilated. Neither do they adopt the practice of raising the flesh of their limbs and bodies by scarifi- cations, as is common among the natives of the south and south-west coasts of New Guinea ; this practice having apparently been superseded among the Dory natives by the Polynesian custom of tattooing, which is adopted both by males and females, the operation being performed by young girls, with the aid of sharp fish-bones and soot. Mr. Bruijn Kops observed that the skins of many of the natives were marked with scars, which have been pro- duced by applications of fire; and from the number of these marks which he saw on single individuals, some- times as many as ten, he was led to suppose that they had ^^been made from some particular motive, probably as a mode of cure, or perhaps as omaments.^^"^ Actual cautery is in common use among the more savage tribes of this part of the world as a cure for many diseases, more especially rheumatism, to which they are •* Bruijn Kops, "Tijdschrift," p. 177. 72 NEW GUINEA. very liable from constant exposure to tlie weather ; and among the Australians, burning the skin with lighted sticks is a common mode of displaying grief on the death of a chief or relative. From a number of inqui- ries the writer has made among Papuans who were marked with the raised cicatrices, he has been led to the conclusion that those on the arm and breast, which are the largest and most prominent, were made in order to qualify them for admission to the privileges of manhood, by showing their capability of bearing pain. In addition to the tattooed figures of crossed swords and kriss-blades with which the skins of the men are marked, the chief ornaments of the Dory natives consist in armlets of fish-bone, strings of shells, copper or silver wire, and sometimes of rattan or pandanus-leaf plaited into bands about two inches wide. A similar band is also worn to protect the wrist from the recoil of the bow- string, which might otherwise inflict considerable injury. HUNTING WILD HOGS. PORT DORY. 73 Occupations. — Hunting and fishing are the chief out- of-door occupations of the men. When at home, they employ themselves in making canoes, building houses, or shaping weapons. The plantations, which lie on the uplands, are cultivated chiefly by the women and chil- dren, who, during the planting or cropping season, go to the plantations in a body, under the protection of two or three of the men, leaving home early in the morning and returning in the evening. The women also perform all the domestic work, carrj'ing wood and water, and husking the rice and millet. They also make earthen pots, and weave mats for household use. Natives of both sexes and all ages are expert in the management of the canoes, and they learn to swim and dive at a very early age. "War is also an occasional occupation, and is carried on in the desultory manner usual with unci\-ilized people, each party retiring to rejoice over its success whenever it has succeeded in killing or capturing an enemy. Unfortunately, the" capture of slaves is some- times the chief object of war excursions, and then whole villages are sometimes surprised, and the women and children criTied away into captivity. Food and Luxuries. — The Dory people subsist chiefly on millet, yams, maize, or Indian corn, a little rice obtained from the traders, fish, pork, and fruit of several varieties, including cocoa-nuts, plantains, and papayas. Sago is not much used, and salt is considered unneces- sary as a condiment. Chewing the siri, or betel-leaf, is very generally practised; and when not otherwise em- ployed, they are incessantly smoking small segars, made E 74 NEW GUINEA. of tobacco rolled up in a piece of pandan-leaf. This herb is grown in the mountains, and is of very good quality, and so cheap, that a roll of several pounds' weight can be obtained in exchange for a knife, a few strings of beads, or an earthenware cup. Disease. — They appear to be rarely afflicted by severe sickness. Cases of disease of the organs of respiration, dysentery, shght fever, elephantiasis, and several other cutaneous diseases, more especially ichthyosis, were ob- served by Mr. Bruijn Kops. Small-pox and s)T)hili8 appear to be unknown. Herbs and the bark of trees are used as medicines, both externally and internally, but surgical cases are always left to the operations of nature. norSE AT DOBT. Habitations and Household Gear. — The chief village, called Lonfabe, consists of thirty-three houses, each of PORT DORY. 75 which is from sixty to seventy feet long, twenty to twenty-five feet wide, and from twelve to fifteen feet high. They are erected upon wooden piles, extending beyond the level of low water ; and during high tides, the sea rises up to the floor of the houses. A stage or platform, also on piles, affords access from the shore. The sides are composed of wooden planks, and the roof is thatched with atap, or marsh flags. A passage about ten feet wide runs along the centre of the building throughout its length, and on each side are chambers and store-rooms partitioned off with mats. The end nearest the sea is left open on three sides, and here the male inhabitants are generally to be found, when at home, making and repairing their implements and fishing gear, or lying down smoking tobacco. Cooking is performed in the inner rooms, each of which is pro\dded with a small fire-place. The floors are of rough spars, placed close together, which cannot be traversed safely by those unaccustomed to them. Some- times as many as twenty men, in addition to the wives and families of the married portion, occupy a single house. The furniture consists of light boxes of palm- leaves, or of a bark which resembles that of the birch- tree, very neatly made, and ornamented with black and red figures and small shells, in which they keep their clothes and valuables ;— also hunting and fishing gear, arms, and implements, earthen pots for cooking or holdin food, wooden mortars for husking rice and maize, and sleeping mats and pillows — the mats being very neatly made, and ornamented with figures of bright black and red. The pillows consist of smooth circular blocks of E 2 76 NEW GUINEA. wood, restiog on short feet, which are usually hand- somely carved. Arts and Agriculture. — The natives understand the art of working iron, the forge consisting of a bellows com- posed of two large bamboos about four feet long, from which the air is expelled by means of two pistons, with bunches of feathers at the end, which are worked like those of hand-pumps; and by raising each alternately, a constant cui'rent of air is expelled through the orifices at the bottom, from which small tubes lead to the fire- place. This instrument is identical with the bellows in use among the brown races of the Archipelago, from whom it may have been borrowed. A stone serves for an anvil ; but the natives often have in their possession a pig of iron ballast, or a piece of a broken anchor, which answers the purpose much better. They also manufacture rings, bracelets, and ear ornaments of metal, chiefly copper and silver ; and a portion of the Spanish dollars obtained from the French surveying ships, ' Astrolabe^ and ' Zelee' in exchange for commodities, have been used for this purpose. They are skilful weavers of mats, but are un- acquainted with the use of the loom. Their plantations, or rather gardens, for a very small space is sufficient for the few articles they cultivate, are formed by cutting down and burning off the jungle, and enclosing the cleared space with a strong fence of bamboo to keep out the wild pigs, which are very numerous. The ground is prepared for planting with the aid of sharp stakes, and after the seeds are put in, the garden is visited at intervals for the purpose of removing the weeds which would otherwise impede the growth of the plants. The people FORT DORY. 77 of Dory do not rear either p jultiy or pigs, but the natives of the interior have domesticated the large crowned pigeons, which are reared in considerable numbers. They also breed pigs, but the latter can scarcely be considered as thoroughly domesticated, as they are sometimes dan- gerous to handle when full grown. Arms and Implements. — Their weapons are bows and arrows, lances or throwing spears, and klewangs or swords, the blades of which are of the razor form. The parang, or chopping-knife, which is also shaped like the blade of a razor, may be considered as a weapon, as it is constantly worn in a sheath at the waist, and is always at hand in cases of emergency. The bows are between six and seven feet long, and are made of bamboo, or a tough kind of redwood, and are provided with a string of rattan. The arrows are four or five feet long, and those used for war are generally furnished with iron heads, which they manufacture themselves. They are never poisoned ; in fact, no New Guinea tribe at least, appears to be ac- quainted with the art. Iron axes, which are imported, are used for felling trees and shaping planks and canoes. Their fishing implements are bows and arrows of a lighter construction than those used for war, and spears with forked points of iron provided with barbs.' A long line is attached to the spears when they are used for striking large fish. They also use a fish trap, made of basket- work, the entrance to which is formed like those of wire rat-traps, rattans being substituted for the elastic wire, the points closing together after admitting the fish, and pre- venting him from getting out again. These fish-traps are sunk in deep water by means of stones attached 78 NEW GUINEA. to the bottom ; and a line, with a buoy of bamboo at one end, is fastened to the upper part, for the purpose of raising it to take out the fish. Navigation and Commerce. — Their canoes or prahus are made from the trunk of a single tree, and some are sufficiently large to require twenty rowers when fully manned. They carry a sail of matting which is suspended from a mast, forming a tripod, with two feet fixed to the side with pins, on which they work like hinges, and the third is slipped over a hook, fastened near the stem. The third foot, which also acts as a stay, is not a fixture, and is unhooked when it is required to strike the mast, which then lies over the thwarts of the prahu, and can be raised again in an instanr. The canoes used on ordinarj^ occasions are small and light, and can easily be carried by two men. Even the children have their little canoes, which they carry to and from the water without difficulty. Their vessels, the largest of which are so narrow that they would capsize if not pro- vided with outriggers, are only adapted for home use, so that their foreign commerce is entirely in the hands of strangers, chiefly Chinese from Temate. An English gentleman. Captain Deighton, who has long been resident in the Moluccas, has also been in the habit of making annual visits to the trading stations on the shores of the Great Bay for the last thirty years, and his ship is almost the only European vessel engaged in the trade. The high estimation in which he is held by the natives is noticed on several occasions by Mr. Bruijn Kops, indeed, he appears to be the only check on the rapacity of the Tidore tribute-collectors, who have often been restrained PORT DORY. 79 from committing their atrocities by a dread that Mr. Deighton would report the circumstance to the govern- ment of the Moluccas. The articles obtained by the traders are chiefly trepang,ov sea-slug -, tortoise-shelly which is of excellent quahty ; massoi, and other odoriferous barks ; and mother-of-pearl shell ; the articles given in exchange being blue and red calico, sarongs or native cloths, brass wire, parangs or chopping-knives, china cups and basins^ and different kinds of hardware. The produce is chiefly adapted for the markets of China, and a considerable portion finds its way to Macassar and Singapore, whence a direct trade is carried on with that empire. Native Character aiid Disposition, — It is a sin- gular fact, that whenever ci\ilized man is brought into friendly communication with savages, the disgust which naturally arises from the first glance at a state of society so obnoxious to his sense of propriety, disappears before a closer acquaintance, and he learns to regard their little delinquencies as he would those of children ; — while their kindliness of disposition and natural good qualities are placed on the credit side of their account. It becomes necessaiT to enter into these particulars, in order to explain the origin of the highly favourable statements respecting the Papuan character and disposition made by Captain Forrest and Mr. Bruijn Kops, both of whom were so cautious, and, it may be added, humane, as to bring their long visits to a close without a rupture with the natives. On the other hand, those whose communications with the Papuans have been of a hostile nature, become so impressed with the savage, wild-beast-like, cunning and ferocity of their attacks, that they cannot believe that the same people 80 NEW GUINEA. have any feelings in common witli more cinlized races. This accounts for the discrepancies that appear in the narratives of different voyagers^ mdeed, sometimes in that of a single individual, as is the case in Mr. Modera^s interesting details ; but all these discrepancies can be distinctly traced to the circumstances under which their communications took place. Mr. Bruijn Kops* evidence respecting the character of the natives of Dory is so in- teresting, and at the same time, from the circumstances under which he was placed, so important, that it will be necessary to extract the entire paragraph. '^ The manners and customs of the inhabitants of, Dory are much less barbarous than might be expected from these rude, uncivilized races. On the contrary, in general they give evidence of a mild disposition, of an inclination to right and justice, and strong moral principles. Theft is considered by them as a veiy grave offence, and is of very rare occurrence. They have no fastenings to their houses, and yet the chiefs assured us that seldom or never was anything stolen. Although they were on board our ship, or alongside, during whole days, we never missed anything. Yet they are distrustful of strangers, until they become acquainted with them, as we experienced. This is probably less, however, a trait of their character, than the result of intercourse with strangers, who, per- haps, have frequently tried to cheat them. The men, it is true, came on board from the time of our arrival, but they were very cautious in letting any of the things they brought for sale out of their hands. The women were at first very fearful, and fled on all sides whenever they saw us, leaving behind what they might be carrying ; but at PORT DORY. 81 length, when they found they had no injury to dread from VLS, they became more familiar. Finally, they approached without being invited, but still remained timid. The children very soon became accustomed to us, and fol- lowed us eveiy where. ^^ Respect for the aged, love for their children, and fidelity to their wives, are traits which reflect honour on their disposition. Chastity is held in high regard, and is a 'virtue that is seldom transgressed by them. A man can only have one wife, and is bound to her for life. Concubinage is not permitted. Adultery is unknown amongst them. They are generally very fond of strong drink, but although they go to excess in this, I could not learn that they prepared any fermented liquor, not even sago-iceer or tuak (palm wine). Kidnapping is general in these countries, and is followed as a branch of trade, so that there is no dishonour attached to it. The captives are treated well, exchanged, if there are any of theirs in the enem)''s hands, or released on payment of a ransom, as was the case in Em-ope during the middle ages. It is an inveterate evil, which, however, might probably be rooted out were an establishment formed that would check them in this. The slave-trade is ver^' extended. The price of a slave is reckoned at twenty-five to thirty guilders. These captives are gently treated and seldom misused : — at least, I heard of nothing to the contrary during our stay.^^* Government and Laws. — The native tribes in the neigh- bourhood of Dory have each its separate chief, who are * Bmiju Ivops, " Tijdschrift," p. 185. E 3 83 NEW GUINEA. perfectly independent of each other, although the titles they hold, which are nominally conferred by the Sultan of Tidore, are sometimes expressive of subjection to a superior chief. It has been already stated that a sort of suzerainty over the western peninsula of New Guinea is claimed in behalf of the Sultan of Tidore, one of the least powerful of the native chiefs subject to the Nether- lands Government. This claim is acknowledged by the coast tribes, from a feeling which pervades all the smaller communities of the Archipelago in favour of placing them- selves under the protection of the most powerful chief in their neighbourhood, a position which was held by the Sultan of Tidore when this suzerainty was first acquired. It has also been encouraged by the Netherlands Govern- ment, as giving them a sort of claim to a country which they might some day see fit to occupy ; for a transfer of the suzerainty from the Sultan of Tidore could be ob- tained at any moment in which it might be required ; indeed, the narrative of Mr. Bruijn Kops leads to the inference that this claim was actually transferred imme- diately before the sailing of the Expedition ; and that the flotilla was sent by the Sultan of Tidore for the purpose of formally giving over possession, the representatives of the Sultan being present on nearly every occasion in which the posts with the Netherlands' arms were erected. The mode in which the chieftainship is conferred is thus described by Mr. Bruijn Kops : '^ When one of the native chiefs dies, information of the event is conveyed to the Sultan by one of the relatives of the deceased, who at the same time takes with him a present of slaves and birds-of-paradise as a token of fealty. This person is PORT DORY. 83 generally named as the successor of the deceased, and is presented with a yellow kabaya, drawers, and headker- chief. He is then bound to pay a yearly tax to the Sultan of a slave; — to reinforce the hongi (the Sultan's tax-collecting flotilla) mth three vessels; — and to furnish it with provisions/^* The authority of these chiefs over their fellow-villagers is merely nominal, as all cases of importance are decided by a council of the elders of the tribe. Mr. Bruijn Kops gives the following information respecting crimes and their punishment, "An incendiary, with his family, becomes the slave of the late proprietor of the burned house. A man who wilfully w^ounds another must give him a slave as compensation. A thief is compelled to make restitution of the property stolen, with something in addition. For the destruction of a garden, the damages must be made good. An adulterer is persecuted to death, or until he has satisfied the offended party by a heavy fine. A man who violates a girl has to marry her, and has to pay the usual dowTy of ten slaves. In cases of adultery, the female is not punished, and no infamy attaches to her, if yet unmarried.^^t Customs : — Social and Religious. — The distinction of caste, which is found among the brown races bordering on New Guinea, does not appear to exist among the Papuans of Dory, as the chiefs marry indiscriminately females of inferior families, according to their choice, paying the usual dowry of ten slaves, or their value in * Bi-uijn Kops, " Tijdsclirift/' p. 183. t Bruijn Kops, " Tijdschrift," p. 188. 84 NEW GUINEA. goods. Indeed, a slave is the standard of value tlirough- out the western parts of New Guinea, as is the case with a musket at Timor and the neighbouring islands, so that when the price of any article is said to be so many slaves, it is intended to mean the value of a slave in blue and red calico or other articles of trade, all of which bear a fixed proportionate value. It is therefore, like the "pound sterling,^^ an imaginary standard of value. The natives of Dory, like all savages, are exceedingly superstitious, and invariably carry about with them amulets consisting of caiwed pieces of wood, bits of bone, quartz, or some other trifle, to which an imaginary value is attached. Those who have fallen under the influence of Mohammedanism substitute verses of the Koran, written on slips of paper, with which they are furnished by the Ceram and Tidore priests. The Papuans of.Dory are for the most part pagans, and worship, or rather consult, an idol called " Karwar,^^ a figure rudely carved in wood and holdins: a shield, with which every house is provided. The idol, which is usually about eighteen inches high, is exceedingly disproportioned, the head being unusually large, the nose long and sharp at the point, and the mouth wide and well proWded with teeth. The body is generally clad in a piece of calico, and the head covered with a handkerchief. Parties consulting it squat before it, clasp the hands over the forehead, and bow repeatedly, at the same time stating their intentions. If they are seized with any nervous feeling during this process it is considered as a bad sign, and the project is abandoned for a time ; if otherwise — that is to say, if they really wish to carry out the proposed object — the PORT DORY. 85 idol is supposed to approve. It is considered necessary that the Karwar should be present on all important occasions, such as births, marriages, or deaths. The natives have also a number of "Fetishes/' generally carved figures of reptiles, which are suspended from the roofs of the houses ; and the posts are also ornamented with similar figures, cut into the wood. They have a sort of priests, or soothsayers, generally one of the elders of the tribe, who is skilled in medicine and in the inter- pretation of prognostics. The marriage ceremony is performed by both parties sitting down in front of the Karwar, when the female gives her intended some tobacco and betel-leaf. The parties then join hands, and the ceremony is complete. "When a death occurs, the body is enveloped in a piece of white calico, and deposited in a grave four or five feet deep, resting on its side, and a porcelain dish is placed under the ear. If the deceased has been the head of a family, the idol is brought to the grave and loaded with reproaches. The arms and ornaments of the deceased are then thrown into the grave, which is filled up with earth, and a roof of atap erected over it, upon which the idol is placed, and left there to decay. The burial feast is kept up for an entire moon when the deceased has been an important personage. The 'Circe' remained at Doiy from the 1st to the 20th of April, 1S50, awaiting the arrival of the Tidore ' Hongi,' or flotilla, which had touched at several places on the coast during the voyage. Its arrival created a panic among the natives, and according to Mr. Bruijn Kops' account thev had sufficient cause for terror. " On the 86 NEW GUINEA. news of the arrival of the flotilla, the women and children took flight with the small canoes, cai-rying with them everything of value. They went to the opposite shore, and into the interior bays, in order to avoid the rapacity of the crews of the flotilla. The chief at once went to Capitan Amir (a Tidore prince in command of the flotilla), taking with him a slave and a great number of birds-of-paradise as a present. It is not to be wondered at that the flotilla instils so much fear, for wherever it goes the crews pillage and steal as much as they can, destroying the plantations, .and appro- priating everything that takes their fancy. It is by means of these ' Hougi' expeditions that the Sultan maintains his power, for on failure of obedience, or negligence in the execution of his orders, such a fleet is sent to kill or make captives of the people, to destroy the villages, and thus to punish all in a severe manner. A specimen of this has already been mentioned when speaking of Geby, which was reduced by a similar fleet. Last year a flotilla was sent by the Sultan to bring under subjection the countries situated to the eastward of the Great Bay (of New Guinea), but when the crews were on shore near the Arimoa Islands, they were attacked by the natives and compelled to return, with the loss of six killed and many wouuded.^^* The population of Doiy must have increased very considerably since the visit of Forrest in 1775, as the village at that time consisted of only two large tenements, while, in 1850, the number had been augmented to thirty- * Bniijn Kops, " Tijdsclirift," p. 194. GREAT BAY. *" 87 three. Probably the excesses committed by the Tidore MalayS; which are repeatedly noticed by Mr. Bruijn Kops, have been confined to those tribes which desired to maintain an independence. The Dutch Expedition next proceeded to Kim, an island situated farther up the Great Bay, which seems to haye been only recently opened as a trading port; and it would appear also that the in- habitants had had little experience of the tax-collecting flotilla, for the women and children did not take to flight on its approach, as was the case in nearly every other village near which it appeared. Mr. Bruijn Kops states : *^ Ships very seldom visit this island. The bark 'Rembang,^ Captain Deighton, had, however, been here four times. Captain Deighton was known to all the inhabitants, and they frequently spoke of him with love and affection. To his amiable character and honom'able conduct are to be attributed the circumstance, that we did not observe in these people any signs of the fear and suspicion which were so \4sible at Dory. Men, women, and children, surrounded us from the first, and assisted us in every way they could.''^ This is a handsome tribute from an officer in a foreign naval service. His desci-iption of an interview with the inhabitants is so strikingly illustrative of the state of society, that it must be extracted entire. " One evening when we went on shore, all the children of the tillage were collected together, and beads were thrown amongst them. Not only the children, but women, men, and even some of the chiefs of the flotilla, * Bruijn Kops, " Tijdschrift," p. 19S. 88 NEW GUINEA. scrambled for the beads, and ran from every quarter to obtain a share. All were on their knees on the sand, and showed how much they prized these presents by the zeal and attention with which they sought for them, and by their merry laughter w^hen they were fortunate. Although these beads were of great value in their estimation, the scrambling was carried on w^ithout the personal contests which in civilized Europe would have been the result of an unequal distribution of presents. Walking along the beach after this distribution, I. entered into con- versation with a native who had learned a little Malay, and who invited me into his house, where I was led into the room which serves as a dwelling-place for the family. I thought that all the women would take to flight, and was not a little surprised to find that they sat down close to me, and observed me very attentively, but without troublesome intrusion. Thus I sat in the midst of six women, three of whom were young, and who, on account of their beautifid eyes, clear, white, and regular teeth, happy, laughing faces, round shoulders and arms, fine hands, beautiful bosoms, and well-fomied limbs, deserved the name of beautiful, not only in the e3'es of Papuans, but also in those of Europeans. The frankness with which I was received struck me, as it was entirely unexpected. They brought me a dish of papeda (sago- flour steeped in water), some roasted fish, yams, and fruit, requesting me to partake of it, which I did to please them. Seeing a ring on my finger, one of the girls tried to draw it ofi" to examine it ; but not succeeding, I drew it oS" myself, and handed it to her. After ex- amination, it was returned to me with care. I mention RUN — KURUDU. 89 all this, because the familiarity with which I was treated astonished me, and gave me a very favourable opinion of these people. The furniture of the house was in general the same as at Doiy, and consisted in pots, cups of earthenware, the same kind of cushions, only smaller, a Javanese wooden chest, wooden platters, a wooden mortar for husking grain, baskets, hampers and mats, a tifa (small drum), carved externally, bows, arrows, lances, and some fishing gear/^* Kurudu, an important station at the north-eastern extreme of the Great Bay, which is here more than 200 miles across, was also Wsited, probably for the first time by an European vessel ; but as this part of New Guinea lies beyond the geographical limits assigned to the present volume, and the inhabitants will have to be described in that which treats on the Papuans of the Pacific, a mere cursory notice must suffice at present. The Dutch were received at Kurudu (which is situated on an island adja- cent to the main land) with caution, but by no means in an unfriendly manner, although it seems that the village had been destroyed, and more than two hundred of the inhabitants carried away into slavery, only a few years before, by the Singaji of Geby, a dependant of the Sultan of Tidore. The natives appeared armed on the beach, as the boat of the ' Circe' approached, but their weapons were soon laid aside, and they showed every token of a friendly feeling, accompanying the surgeon, Mr. Schneider, during his excursion in search of shells and botanical specimens, and assisting him to the best of their ability. * BiTLijn Kops, « Tijdsclirift;' p. 201. 90 MEW GUINEA. This friendly intercourse was, however, put a stop to by the firing of the evening gun on board the schooner, which had the efi'ect of driving the entire population from the village to the main land ; for on the following morning it was found to be deserted by every living creature, with the exception of the dogs, whose melancholy howling seems to have had a veiy depressing efi'ect on the Dutch officers. They were also thus deprived of the hope of obtaining an interpreter to enable them to hold inter- course with the people farther to the eastward, so that their observations on the natives they met with near Port Humboldt are of less value than they would otherwise have been. The inhabitants of Kurudu do not appear to differ in personal characteristics from those of Dory, and they are at least equally advanced in the social arts; but their ci\ilization, such as it is, is nearly altogether different, having more of a PoljTiesian than a Malayan character ; so that the Great Bay of New Guinea must be con- sidered as the dividing line between the Papuans of the Pacific and those of the Indian Archipelago, more especially as the natives of the south coast of New Guinea, to the eastward of Torres Strait, have evi- dently been left untouched by Malayan civilization. Indeed it is by no means improbable that the wide space between the south-west Cape of New Guinea and the Islands of Torres Strait, where the land has not yet been seen, may prove to be a deep inlet similar to the Great Bay on the north coast ; and from the nature of the land on the west side of the great south-east bay, which is low, and broken by channels, it may eventually prove to be islands, like that of Frederik- Henry, which is cut PORT HUMBOLDT. 91 off by the Dourga Strait. Nor is the northern coast of the great peninsula of New Guinea inferior in point of scientific interest, since the coast, for more than a hundred miles to the eastward of Kurudu, was found to be the delta of a large river, called Ambermo by the natives, which poured out so large a body of muddy water, as to form a bank extending at least thirty miles out to sea ; while most other parts of the coast were unfathom- able a few cables' lengths off shore. "VMien this river comes to be explored, the mystery that has hitherto enveloped the ethnography of New Guinea's interior will be in some degree dispelled. The chief object of the Dutch Expedition of 1850 was to examine Port Humboldt in lat. 2° 20' S., and long. 140° 47' E., with the view of forming a settlement, or rather to ascertain its capabilities for this purpose ; but after arriving in sight of the port, a strong south-east wind, with a lee current, prevented the 'Circe' from entering, and she retm-ned to Amboyna. The information collected appears, however, to have been sufficient to authorise the government in coming to a decision, as an establishment was foi-med at Port Humboldt in the early part of 1852. The garrison, if it may be so called, consists of a party of burghers, or native militia of Ter- nate, a people by no means calculated to inspire respect in the stalwart and energetic Papuans. It is to be hoped, however, that the favourable position of this port, as a refreshing station for ships that have crossed the Pacific from the west coast of America, will lead to the establishment being placed on a more sub- stantial footing. Certainly, the interests of commerce. 93 NEW GUINEA. independent of all philanthropic considerations, require that at least one refuge should be established on the coasts of an island nearly 1,400 miles in length, and which are now traversed almost daily by the shipping employed in the commerce of the Far East. The antece- dents of the Netherlands Government in these regions are not favom-able to the supposition that the establishment at Port Humboldt has been formed with philanthropic views, but civihzed nations are not likely to be particular in their inqunies as to the motives of action, if a new port, in a perfectly inhospitable region, is opened out for the general convenience of shipping. ARRU ISLANDS. 93 CHAPTER V. THE ARRU ISLANDS. GENERAL DESCRIPTIOX OF THE GROUP FOREIGN INTERCOURSE MIXED RACE OF THE WESTERN ISLANDS DUTCH CONNECTION WITH THE ISLANDS RENEWED IN 1824 LIEUTENANT KOLFf's DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDERS PECULIAR COMPLEXION OF THE ARRUANS — THE KABROOR ISLANDERS AGRICULTURE TREPANG AND PEARL FISHERIES NATIVE VESSELS ELEPHANTS' TUSKS AND PORCELAIN DISHES SOCIAL CONDITION OF THE NATIVES OF VORKAY MAR- RIAGE CUSTOMS MODE OF SETTLING DIFFERENCES FUNEREAL CUSTOMS AND CEREMONIES INTRODUCTION OF CHRISTIANITY AND MOHAMMEDANISM IMPORTANCE OF FARTHER DETAILS RESPECTING THE ARRUANS. The Arru Islands are a closely packed group, distant about sixty miles from the south-west coast of New Guinea, and extending over a space of one hundred miles in length, and between forty and fifty miles in breadth. On the eastern side of the group are found banks of sand and mud, stretching far out to sea, which are only covered to the depth .of a few feet at low tides. The trepang, or sea-slug, which, when cured, is an article of 94 ARRU ISLANDS. great consumption in China^ where it is mucli used as a delicacy for the table, exists in great abundance on these banks, which also furnish pearl-oysters of two varieties ; namely, the large oyster, whose shell is the mother-of- pearl shell of commerce, and the smaller variety in which the seed-pearls are found. Some of the more eastern islands contain lime-stone caverns, within which the small swallow constructs the edible birds^-nests of com- merce, also an article in great demand for the markets of China, where it is said to be worth its weight in silver. These circumstances, coupled with the industrious habits and friendly disposition of the islanders, has led to the group becoming a great resort for traders from the west- em parts of the iVrchipelago, including natives of Java and Celebes, Chinese, and even Europeans, who bring large quantities of manufactured goods and other articles suited to the tastes of the mhabitants. The latter have consequently become the most wealthy and prosperous of all the native tribes of the neighbouring seas. The Arru islanders bear a strong personal resemblance to the aborigines of Port Essington ; indeed on several occasions in which natives from the neighbourhood of the late settlement visited the islands in Em'opean vessels, they were considered by the xlrruans as belonging to some remote part of their own group. But the Arruans also possess so many characteristics in common \vith the Outanatas of the opposite coast of New Guinea, that it will be necessary to include them in a general account of the Papuans. The ports frequented by the foreign trading-vessels are all in the north-western part of the group, where the i TRADING PORTS. 95 people are evidently of a mixed race, the natural result of strangers fi'om the west havinj^ married and settled among them during an intercourse which appears to have extended over several centuries. The characteristics of the aboriginal inhabitants will therefore have to be sought among the islands remote from the trading ports ; and in order to fmiiish the most authentic information concern- ing them, it will be necessary- to borrow very considerably from Lieutenant Kolff^s narrative of his voyage in 1826. The writer visited Dobbo, the chief port of the group, in 1841, in Her Majesty't Ship ' Britomart / but as his attention was chiefly directed towards ascertaining the commercial resources of the islands, the particulars he was able to gather respecting the aborigines only served to confirm the general correctness of Lieutenant Kolfi's details on all those points which came under his obser- vation. The expedition of Lieutenant Kolff in the ' Dourga' had been planned by the Governor-general of Netherlands India, Baron Van der Capellen, during a visit he made to the principal settlements of the Moluccas in 1824, and which has been attended with so many beneficial results to the native inhabitants of these eastern islands. This was the first occasion in which the Moluccas had been honoured by the presence of a Governor-general since the days of Van Diemen, the patron of Tasman and Australian discovery; and, as might be expected, the event created great enthusiasm among all classes, which seems to have extended to the Arrus, the most remote group that had come under the influence of the Dutch establishments. Lieutenant KoLfi" says : 96 ARRU ISLANDS. " During the year previous to my visit, )vhen tlie Governor-general Baron A'an der Capellen visited the Moluccas, he sent two schooners of war, the ' Daphne' and ^ Pollux/ to the Arrus, to inquire into the condition of the people. The arrival of Mr. A. J. Bik, who was at the head of this expedition, had given rise to a hope among the natives that the government would take an interest in their affairs, so that my visit naturally excited much joy among them. They welcomed us in the most friendly manner, kissed our hands, and expressed the greatest joy when I informed them of the object of my visit, and of the purpose of our government to take them again under its protection. The frank and kind manner in which men and women, heathen as well as Christians, came forth to meet us, was truly striking and impressive, the more from these innocent people being, unlike many other of the Indian races, entirely free from dissimulation.' '* And it is satisfactory to know that after a sojourn of a fortnight among them, ]\Ir. Kolff still retained his favourable impressions. He describes as follows the leading characteristics of the aboriginal Arruans : " Little or no information can be gathered from the charts concerning the position, the number, or the names of the Arru Islands. Valentyn laid them down very incorrectly, and was uncertain how far they extended to the eastward. The Alfoers, who are the aborigines of the islands, form a numerous body of people. They are not, as is generally supposed, entirely uncivilized, since they * Kolff, " YoYcige of tlie 'Dourga/ " p. 179. FOOD AND DRESS. 97 live in ^*illages containing ten or twelve houses eacli, under the control of their elders. Their food consists chiefly of fish and hogs, which they shoot with iron- pointed arrows. They also grow excellent vegetables, Indian corn, labu (a sort of pumpkin, resembling the tui-nip in flavour), sugar-cane, together with a little red and white rice. Their clothing is not more costly than their food. The men wear a strip of white, blue, or coloured calico round the waist, one end being brought between the legs, and fastened on one side with a knot, and adorn themselves with armlets made from white shells, with small pieces of brass wire in fom* or five holes pierced above one another in the ears, and vrith beads around the neck. Their hair is usually black and strongly curled. As I have 'remarked elsewhere, they wash it with ash or lime-water, which imparts to it a lightish colour and causes it to appear rough, both these peculiarities being considered very tasteful by the Alfoers as well as by the Papuans. Some of them, who have very Ions hair t\^-ist it up into a knot at the back of the head, confining it by means of a bamboo comb. Nearly all their head-dresses are adorned by some strings of glass beads extending from both ears, and meeting over the forehead. They always carry a chopping-knife thrust through the waistcloth. " The women wear a chain girdle, made of thick brass wire, round the waist, the ends fastened by a hook, from which a small piece of cloth, generally of :Macassar sarong stuff", hangs down in front, a square piece of fine matting depending in like manner from behind, these forming their sole covering. The numerous strings of 98 ARRU ISLANDS. glass beads, which they wear round the neck, hang down upon the breast, and are triced up to each ear, which has by no means an ungraceful appearance. The entire lobe of the ear is pierced with numerous holes, through which are drawn pieces of copper and tin, and sometimes a species of marine plant, this last being also often used as armlets. Under the knee and above the elbow they wear bands of fine plaited cane, through which they often draw the leaves of a certain plant. The hair of the women is very long and fine, and in general but slightly curled. They plait it in difi*erent sections, and twist the whole up into a knot on the top of the head. Their colour is black or transparent brown {doorscMjnend bruin.y^^ The peculiar tinge of complexion here alluded to by Lieutenant Kolff is common among many of the Papuan tribes of the Archipelago, more especially in the case of individuals who have been brought up from an early age in the families of European settlers, w^here they have been less exposed to privations than their wild brethren of the mountains. This tinge arises apparently from the natural chocolate-coloured skin becoming so clear, that the flush of the blood shows through it. The pecu- liarity is exceedingly well-depicted in the '' Portrait of a Girl of Luzon" (one of the Philippine Islands), w^hich forms Plate XXIV. of the late Dr. Prichard's " Natural History of Man/' The original formed part of the col- lection of M. Choris, a French artist, who accompanied the Russian voj'^age of circumnavigation under Kotzebue, and the copy referred to is stated by Dr. Prichard to * Kolff, " Voyage of the ' Dourga,' " p. 156. I PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 99 give " probably a correct portrait of a female of this YB.ce/' an opinion which will be confirmed by all those who have had opportunities of seeing Papuans of the Philippines as favourably circumstanced as this young person seems to have been. This tinge of complexion is very general among the children and young women of the Arms, and is more pleasing in the eyes of Europeans than the pallid, yellow complexion of children of the brown races. It is styled " itam manis" literally " sweet black^^ by the Malays, among w^hom also it is common, especially at Bruni (Borneo Proper) and Acheen, in Sumatra, where the inhabitants are generally darker in complexion than in the other Malayan States. The itam manis complexion is also rather admired by the Malays, as is shown, indeed, by the poetical name they have conferred on it. The Arruans are taller and more muscular than the Malays and Bughis of Celebes, but are inferior in pro- portions, if not in stature, to the ordinary run of Europeans. The usual height of the men is from five feet four inches to five feet eight inches, and there is a great inclination to slimness about the lower extremities among the taller men, some of whom attain the height of six feet. Fine expansive chests are, however, almost universal. The writer had no opportunity of seeing the natives of the easternmost islands of the group, who, according to all accounts, musl possess a superior deve- lopment to those of the south ; but Mr. Kolfi" was more fortunate, as will be seen by the following extract from the " Voyage of the ' Dourga^ :^^ — " On one occasion, we met with a prahu from the Kabroor Islands, the people in which were superior in F 2 100 ARRU ISLANDS. appearance to tlie trepang-fishers of Vorkay. They Lad clearer skins than the latter^ and their hair, which was also much finer, was very neatly dressed and adorned with beads. Their weapons, and the ornaments of their prahus, displayed great taste. The strangers, who called them- selves Alfoers of Borassi, had abundance of food ^ith them, together with several hunting dogs/^* These people are described by the western islanders as being more addicted to agricultural than maritime pur- suits, and as subsisting chiefly on maize, yams, and sweet potatoes, which may possibly account for their superiority in personal appearance. Their prahus and weapons are said to resemble exactly those of the Outanatas, on the opposite coast of New Guinea. Very little is known concerning the agriculture of the Arruans, for during the periodical visits of the traders, which extend over three or fom* months, nearly the entire population, male and female, is occupied in collecting the marine produce which forms the bulk of their return car- goes. The houses of the Arruans, which are erected on piles near the sea-shore, are generally shaded by cocoa-nut groves; and their gardens, which are laid out in the in- terior, supply yams, sweet potatoes, plantains, &:c., in fact, the greater portion of the fruits and vegetables common to the Moluccas; and Mr. Kolff inforais us that they also grow a little rice, but this is not a common practice, although rice is their favourite diet, the supplies brought by the foreign traders being very great, and quite equal to the consumption of the inhabitants employed in the * Kolff, '^ Voyage;'