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 A VISIT 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA.
 
 LONPON : 
 GILBERT AND KIVING'l'ON, PRINTEKS, 
 
 ST. John's square.
 
 A VISIT 
 
 JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 EGBERT NICHOLAS FOWLER, M.A., F.E.G.S., F.S.A. 
 
 FEUOW OF UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, LONDON. 
 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, 
 
 CKOWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 
 
 1877. 
 [All rights reserved.]
 
 1^3 
 5 uS 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 So many travellers round the world have published 
 ^ their journals, that an apology is required for adding- 
 '*^ to the list. My excuse must be that I have taken the 
 opportunity to allude to a number of questions of 
 public interest in which, both in and out of Parliament, 
 I have for many years taken a deep interest. 
 
 Gastard, Chippenham, 
 November, 1876. 
 
 «4 JLXo if 4.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FAGB 
 
 From London to Japan 1 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 Excursions in Japan 30 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Voyage down the Chinese Coast 68 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 The Straits Settlements and Ceylon .... 109 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Madras and Southern India 134 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Calcutta and British Power in India . . . .170 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Benares, Lucknow, Delhi, Lahore, and Agra . . 225 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Bombay, and Home 204
 
 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, 
 AND INDIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 
 
 I LEFT London on Wednesday, the 1st of September, 
 1875, and at one o'clock on Thursday, the 2nd, sailed 
 from Liverpool in the Inman steamer " City of 
 Chester,'^ Captain Leitch. The day was wet and 
 misty, and the night very dark, so that Captain 
 Leitch, being unable to see the Tuscar, very wisely 
 kept in mid-channel, though it took him out of his 
 course. The next day was beautifully fine, as we 
 entered Queenstown Harbour, where we saw the re- 
 mains of the fleet anchored, and heard of that un- 
 fortunate collision in a fog similar to that we had 
 passed through, which occasioned the loss of the 
 " Vanguard.^' We were detained at Queenstown for 
 several hours, waiting for the arrival of the mail, 
 which gave us the -opportunity of driving round the 
 neighbourhood, and visiting Cork. The mail came ou 
 
 1-r^ B
 
 2 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHmA, AND INDIA. 
 
 board in the afternoon, so we sailed about five, and at 
 nine passed the Fastnets light, and took leave of the 
 coast of Ireland. 
 
 It was my first voyage across the Atlantic, and in a 
 company of more than 200 cabin passengers I hardly 
 met any one who had not made the passage before. I 
 apprehend, however, that our voyage was an ordinary 
 specimen of the sail across the Atlantic. The weather 
 was generally fine, and the passengers amused them- 
 selves as well as they could, though the large number 
 on board occasioned some inconveniences. The " City 
 of Chester" is a very fine boat of 4600 tons. Her 
 best day^s run was 346 miles, her worst 317. The 
 day's run gives rise to a good deal of betting, which I 
 was afterwards told was not always fair. The passen- 
 gers were mostly Americans, and I heard long and 
 earnest discussions on the state of politics, and the 
 chances of the next Presidential election. On Sunday 
 Captain Leitch, who is a fine seaman and a courteous 
 gentleman, read the Church service in the cabin. 
 This service in the midst of the ocean was solemn 
 and striking. About five o'clock in the afternoon 
 of the 10th, a pilot-boat appeared. It was a beauti- 
 ful sight to see the fine cutter manoeuvre, and the 
 pilot put off in a little cockleshell of a boat which 
 rode like a cork on the long waves. It shows the 
 pluck of the New York pilots to come out nearly 600 
 miles to meet ships. At daylight on Sunday, the 12th, 
 we saw the American land before us, and reached 
 Sandy Hook light-house after a passage from Queens-
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 6 
 
 town of eight days, eighteen hours. The sail up the 
 bay to New York is lovely, as the shores are beautiful, 
 and the city magnificent. About half-past eight wo 
 reached New York, when I took leave of my fellow- 
 passengers, with whom I had passed a pleasant week, 
 and landed on American ground. The United States 
 custom-house is not the common-place afiair it is in 
 most countries. The duties on many articles are enor- 
 mous, and Americans returning from Europe have often 
 made extensive purchases. Luckily for me, I had very 
 little luggage, so I passed the ordeal without diffi- 
 culty, and reached the Fifth Avenue Hotel just in time 
 to attend church. It was pleasant in a foreign land 
 to be using the glorious liturgy we are accustomed to 
 at home, and to be able to thank God that He had 
 so far sped me on my way. 
 
 Next day I made an excursion to Burlington, New 
 Jersey, to visit a relative, whom I was not so fortunate 
 as to find at home. Crossing the Hudson in pouring 
 rain, by one of the gigantic steam ferries, which are a 
 feature of New York, I took " the cars " (to use the 
 expressive American phrase) at Jersey City, and pro- 
 ceeded through a fine park-like country, interspersed 
 with pretty towns, to Trenton, where we left the 
 Philadelphia line, and followed the beautiful banks of 
 the Delaware to Burlington, a foreign-looking town, 
 where the houses reminded me of Holland, but the 
 vegetation was that of a southern clime. 
 
 I remained in New York till the morning of Wed- 
 nesday, the 15th, and greatly admired that city of 
 
 B 2
 
 4 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CIIIXA, AND IXDIA. 
 
 palaces. Broadway, wliich extends for upwards of 
 four miles, is a magnificent street, with splendid build- 
 ings, and the Central Park is very large, and in parts 
 beautiful. The tramways which traverse the streets 
 are very convenient ; but it is remarkable that New 
 York, in common, I believe, with other American 
 cities, is deficient in good street conveyances. In 
 Europe we are accustomed to be carried cheap ; but 
 here, the only carriages plying for hire are lumbering 
 chariots, worthy o£ the days of Louis XIV., which 
 charge rates that are altogether prohibitory. In fact, 
 everything here gives evidence of a country where 
 money is easily made and carelessly spent. The 
 hotels are magnificent, but their charges are enormous, 
 and the system of making you pay so much per diem, 
 without reference to whether you take your meals or 
 not, is very objectionable. 
 
 I was anxious to leave San Francisco by the steamer 
 of October 1st, and I therefore had only eighteen days 
 to spend in America. I concluded it would be better 
 to devote what time I had to the Pacific States, and 
 to leave the Eastern for a future journey. Two lines 
 of railway lead from New York to Niagara — the Erie, of 
 which we have lately heard so much in the City, and 
 the New York Central. I selected the latter because it 
 follows the beautiful scenery of the Hudson, which 
 the Americans are fond of comparing to the Rhine. 
 I do not think the comparison very appropriate, as it 
 is a much broader river, and seemed to me more to 
 resemble the Lake of Neuchatel. Winding along the
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 5 
 
 lovely banks, we readied the fine city of Albany, 
 where we left tlie river, and, traversing a country 
 which, by its wooded aspect, showed that it had been 
 formerly a forest, and passing towns boasting the 
 classic names of Rome, Utica, and Syracuse, arrived at 
 Niagara. The American railways are very comfort- 
 able, though they have nominally only one class. The 
 Pulman cars, however, are attached to each train, in 
 which you can travel at an extra fare. These cars, 
 which have lately been introduced on the Midland, 
 give you comfortable sofas or armchairs by day, and 
 sleeping-berths by night. The American fares are, I 
 believe, low in the Eastern States ; but on the line 
 from Omaha to San Francisco the charge is 100 
 dollars, which, though it is at a higher rate than we 
 are accustomed to in Europe, is not unreasonable, 
 considering the difficulties under which it has been 
 constructed. The system which enables you to take a 
 ticket at New York for San Francisco, with liberty to 
 stop at any station you please, is a great convenience. 
 
 After sleeping at the Niagara Hotel on the American 
 side, I started to visit the Falls. I should recommend 
 any one with leisure to establish himself for two or 
 three days at the Clifton Hotel on the Canada side, 
 where the cataract can be seen to the greatest advan- 
 tage. The transit from one side to the other is 
 accomplished by a suspension bridge. The American 
 Fall is exceedingly beautiful, while the Horse Shoe on 
 the Canada side is, I suppose, unquestionably the 
 finest in the world, unless that of the Zambesi, dis-
 
 G A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 covered by Dr. Livingstone, must be excepted, tliough 
 the great volume of spray rising from it is a hindrance 
 to its being appreciated. After walking under the 
 Fall, and admiring the magnificent view from the top 
 of a house close to the Horse Shoe, we drove to the 
 Rapids, about two miles below the Falls, and then to 
 the Whirlpool. The latter is an extraordinary sight, 
 as the river, after running straight from the Falls for 
 some three miles, apparently comes to an end ; but on 
 proceeding a little further you perceive that it turns 
 at right angles very suddenly, and that the turn 
 occasions a whirlpool. I was familiar with the Horse 
 Shoe from pictures ; but this sudden bend, of which 
 I did not recollect to have heard, surprised and de- 
 lighted me. Niagara is among the greatest wonders 
 of this beautiful world, though the surrounding 
 country is not remarkable for scenery. Still, when I 
 remember Moore's enraptured description, — 
 
 " These are miracles which man, 
 Caged in the bounds of Europe's pigmy plan, 
 Can scarcely dream of, which his eye must see 
 To know how beautiful this world can be," — 
 
 I think he never can have gazed on those sublime 
 Alpine scenes with which, in these days, every English 
 tourist is familiar. 
 
 While we were at the Eapids it began to rain, and 
 when the train left the Suspension Bridge station it 
 had increased to such a storm as I have rarely wit- 
 nessed. The railway is carried over the river by a
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. / 
 
 suspeusion bridge — a trmmpk of engineering skill. 
 The Great Western Railway of Canada carried us past 
 the end of Lake Ontario, through a country of forests, 
 where the stations bear the English names of Grimsby, 
 Woodstock, London, and Chatham, to Windsor, 
 when the train was ferried over by a steam bridge 
 to Detroit. I deeply regretted that time did not per- 
 mit me to remain in Canada, because I feel that every- 
 thing which concerns that great dominion should be 
 of interest to an Englishman. Our great object 
 should be to draw closer those ties which unite Canada 
 to our common sovereign and our common country. 
 
 The journey from Virginia to Salt Lake City occu- 
 pied between four and five days of continuous 
 travelling. After leaving Detroit, passing through the 
 States of Michigan and Indiana, we reached Chicago, 
 where Lake Michigan was breaking on the shore like a 
 stormy sea. Owing to the train being an hour and a 
 half late, I lost the opportunity of driving through this 
 wonderful city, which in three years has been rebuilt 
 after the great fire. I believe its great sight is what 
 was at that moment the largest hotel in the world, 
 though it has subsequently been eclipsed by one at 
 San Francisco. We proceeded across the State of 
 Illinois, through a fine agricultural country, though 
 dull, flat, and destitute of trees, and about nightfall 
 crossed the magnificent stream of the Mississippi to 
 the town of Burlington, in Iowa. Next morning we 
 reached Council Bluffs, on the eastern side of the 
 Missouri, and crossing that river by a very long bridge.
 
 8 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 rendered necessary by the sand-banks tbrougli wHcli 
 its shifting current winds, reached Omaha. The tide 
 of American settlers is constantly sweeping West, so 
 that what a few years ago was a back-wood station is 
 now a flourishing city; but at the present time Omaha 
 may fairly be considered as the spot where civilization 
 terminates, and you enter on the dismal prairies. 
 Three railways from Chicago converge at Council 
 Bluffs, while the Union Pacific is the only line beyond 
 Omaha. 
 
 We continued our journey across the prairies, where 
 is much fine land, which some day will be productive ; 
 but these long, rolling, monotonous tracts, without a 
 tree to be seen, are very uninteresting. Where there 
 are some inhabitants, herds of cattle graze, and ante- 
 lopes and prairie dogs are to be seen; but the Indian 
 and the buffalo, who formerly tenanted these wilds, have 
 disappeared. Much as this railway does for present 
 convenience, it is sad to think it is at the expense of 
 the ancient and lawful owners of the country. Nor are 
 they replaced by better men, as the new-comers are 
 often among the most lawless of mankind. We had 
 three prisoners in the train, who had been arrested for 
 committing a murder, and who narrowly escaped 
 being lynched. Along this route in former days the 
 Mormons and other emigrants toiled in waggons, dis- 
 playing the virtue of indomitable perseverance. The 
 scene is dreary as the Russian steppes between 
 Moscow and Odessa ; but what is very remarkable is, 
 that the line attains tlie groat elevation of 8250 feet
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. U 
 
 above tlie level of the sea by a gradual ascent^ without 
 terraces or other engineering works. After crossing 
 the last chain of the Rocky Mountains, we left the 
 prairies and descended through charming ravines, 
 which reminded me of the Valley of the Tchernaya in 
 the Crimea^ to the junction station of Ogden. The 
 absence of trees through the whole route is very 
 remarkable. What is called the 1000-mile tree is 
 situated some four or five miles from the 1000-mile 
 post, and I presume is so called from the difficulty of 
 finding one nearer. On the other hand, the rocks are 
 magnificent, and one is occasionally carried through 
 scenes of wild grandeur. 
 
 At Ogden the Union Pacific Railway from Omaha 
 meets the Central Pacific Railway from San Francisco, 
 while a short line takes you to Salt Lake City, the 
 Mormon capital. My train was impeded, in traversing 
 this line, by a tremendous storm of wind, but I arrived 
 about 10 p.m. on Sept. 20, and took up my quarters 
 at the Townsend House. In America, hotels frequently 
 bear the name of the owner. The Walker House, the 
 rival hotel, is in the hands of the Gentiles, between 
 whom and the Mormons there seems great hostility. 
 
 At supper I had a long conversation with my land- 
 lord, who came with the early settlers from Nauvoo, 
 and settled here twenty-three years ago, though since 
 that time he has been on a mission to England. The 
 hardships which these early settlers must have endured 
 in passing through the wilderness which the railway 
 now traverses prove them to have been influenced by
 
 10 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 strong fanaticism. He told me tliat the population of 
 the city consisted of 25^000 Mormons and of 3000 
 Gentiles. He said they accept the Bible in its liberal 
 sense, holding the Book of Mormon to be a sup- 
 plementary revelation in regard to the Church in 
 America. He defended polygamy as a check on 
 immorality. 
 
 Next morning I ascended a hill overlooking the 
 town, which presented a striking appearance. It is 
 laid out in blocks of ten acres, with eight houses to 
 each block, so that every house has one and a quarter 
 acres of land. These are traversed by streets at right 
 angles, through which water is carried, while tramways 
 are laid down in the leading thoroughfares. The town 
 lies like an oasis in a valley, with barren snow-capped 
 mountains around it, and the Salt Lake in the distance. 
 Whatever we may think of the Mormons, we must do 
 justice to the energy which has converted a wilderness 
 into a smiling garden. The Tabernacle is an immense 
 building, capable of seating 13,000 people. It was 
 hung round with texts of Scripture and moral sen- 
 tences, while the roof was decorated with imitations of 
 flowers. It would have been interesting to have been 
 here on a Sunday, and to have heard a Mormon sermon. 
 Near it the Temple, another religious edifice, is being 
 slowly built. 
 
 I called on the Hon. James Cucannon, the represen- 
 tative of the territory of Utah in Congress, where he 
 sits with the right of speaking, but not of voting. I 
 found him a very superior and intelligent man, and was
 
 PEOM LONDON TO JAPAN, 11 
 
 much interested in his views on American politics and 
 the chances of the next Presidential election^ as from 
 his position he was able to take a more dispassionate 
 view of the state of affairs than most of those whom I 
 have met with. I had failed to get a letter of intro- 
 duction to Brigham Young, or, as he is here designated, 
 '^ His Excellency President Young," and therefore 
 made no attempt to see that extraordinary personage, 
 though I should have much liked to do so. The 
 ride back to Ogden along the banks of the lake was 
 striking from the clear, serene atmosphere, and the 
 graceful shapes of the mountains. 
 
 From Ogden I proceeded towards San Francisco, a 
 journey of forty-eight hours. The train stops for mealsj 
 which are dignified with the names of " breakfast," 
 " dinner," and " supper," and are charged a dollar 
 each. Every meal, however, is alike, consisting of 
 beefsteaks, pancakes, and coffee. Our ride on the 
 22nd lay through plains which abound in alkali, and, 
 the day being hot and dry, the dust was very un- 
 pleasant. The only vegetation seemed to be sage- 
 grass. The absence of trees continued, and the only 
 difficulty the engineers appear to have encountered has 
 been to protect the line from snow, which requires 
 fences and long galleries. On this day, for the first 
 time, we saw Indians begging at the station. It was 
 a most melancholy sight to behold the remnants of a 
 once noble and powerful race sunk to the lowest state 
 of degradation. We sometimes hear it said that it is a 
 law of nature that the feebler races of mankind should
 
 12 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHIXA^ AND IXDIA. 
 
 be extinguished by advancing civilization. To me tliis 
 appears a hollow and vi^orthless excuse for the cupidity 
 and rapacity of mankind. Civilization professes to aim 
 at the elevation and improvement of the human race, 
 while by the precepts of our holy religion we are com- 
 manded not to defraud or go beyond our neighbours in. 
 anything. Can it then be said that the only way to 
 elevate the earth is to improve the weaker race of man 
 off its face ? Such a doctrine is a disgrace to civi- 
 lization^ a violation of the principles of Christianity. I 
 know that the improvement of aboriginal tribes is an. 
 undertaking of great difficulty; but missionaries going 
 forth in dependence on the help of God have been 
 blessed in their arduous labours, while the State is 
 bound to afford them justice and protection. In this duty 
 most governments have lamentably failed. It is only 
 justice to the Washington Government to say that they 
 have been honourably distinguished by their anxiety to 
 promote the welfare of the Indians, and President 
 Grant in particular has striven to pursue a humane 
 policy. In our own country, Eang William the Fourth 
 ought to be gratefully remembered for his declaration 
 to Lord Glenelg, in regard to the Caffres, that '^he 
 would not have his dominions extended by injustice;^' 
 while in Prance the policy of the unfortunate Emperor 
 Napoleon the Third, in regard to the Arabs of Algeria, 
 deserved the admiration of every friend of humanity. 
 But while, in both the New and the Old World, indi- 
 vidual rulers have endeavoured to promote the interests 
 of those who have none to protect them, most States
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 13 
 
 have allowed tlie aborigines to become tlie prey of the 
 settlers. A quarrel springs up between a settler and a 
 native. It is easy for a man of some education to put 
 the poor native technically in the wrong. The State 
 takes the part of the settler^ and either by regular 
 troops, or merely by the exertions of the emigrants, 
 the natives are expelled from their country, or perhaps 
 wholly exterminated. Such, alas ! is the process which 
 has gone on in whatever part of the world civilization 
 has come in contact with barbarous men. Everywhere 
 we see what Macaulay called '' the most affecting of 
 human spectacles — the strength of civilization without 
 its mercy. ■'^ The aborigines are conquered and en- 
 slaved, and drunkenness completes the destruction 
 which oppression has begun. 
 
 Such has been the history of the destruction of the 
 Indian tribes along the Pacific route. Here they were 
 confronted with men possessing the energy of the 
 American character, but also possessing that reckless- 
 ness too often found in those who prefer the wild life 
 of the back-woods to the monotony of a highly-civilized 
 community. The Washington Government was dis- 
 tant, and, if it had the power, had not the will to inter- 
 fere between its own citizens and the Indians. Con- 
 sequently, after many hard contests, they have been 
 deprived of their country, and whisky is completing 
 the ruin of this once-powerful people. They are now 
 thrust back on reservations which Congress has set aside 
 for them, and where, it is to be hoped, effectual measures 
 will be taken for their protection and improvement.
 
 14 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 During the night we passed Reno, the junction 
 for Virginia City, celebrated for those wonderful 
 silver-mines whoso productiveness is now disturbing 
 the currency. I should have much liked to visit 
 them, but unfortunately the time at my disposal did 
 not permit it. On waking next morning, I found 
 mi J self in a snow-shed, where the train was stopping, 
 owing, as I afterwards learned, to another snow-shed 
 having been on fire, and blocking up the way. In this 
 part of the line it is continually necessary to carry it 
 through long galleries as a protection against the 
 winter snow. The descent of the Sierra Nevada into 
 the plains of California is a triumph of engineering 
 skill amid lovely views. We rounded a mountain 
 called Cape Horn, down which the railway is carried 
 to the town of Colfax. The scenery is certainly very 
 grand, and to an American, particularly to an inhabi- 
 tant of the vast plains of the Central States, it must 
 appear stupendous, but to an Englishman who has 
 traversed the railroads over the Simmering and the 
 Brenna, over the Apennines and the Black Forest, 
 and who has crossed the wonderful roads which span 
 the Alps, while it recalls many familiar scenes of sub- 
 limity and beauty, it has not the charm of novelty. 
 
 At Colfax the train stopped for breakfast, and here 
 I took the opportunity to convert my remaining green- 
 backs into gold. I found the question of hard money 
 against inflation was exciting great interest ; the com- 
 mercial Eastern States as a rule advocating the for- 
 mer, the Western States the latter. I was told by a
 
 PROM LONDON TO JAPAN. ]5 
 
 gentleman that tlie Western States wanted money for 
 railways and other purposes^, which they must raise in 
 Europe^ and therefore it was necessary in their interests 
 to maintain greenbacks. I remarked that the Western 
 States made a great mistake if they supposed that in- 
 flation^ as the suspension of cash payments is called, 
 would assist them to raise money. European capitalists 
 like to know what interest they will receive, and they 
 will grant much better terms if that interest is paid in 
 gold than if it is left to a shifting, uncertain rate of 
 currency. It seems extraordinary, in a rich country 
 like the United States, to find every transaction, down 
 to a few cents., carried on in paper, and no effort made 
 to return to the system of cash payments, or, as they 
 call it, hard money, which prevails in every other pros- 
 perous country. In the Pacific States, with their large 
 supplies of the precious metals, they naturally repudiate 
 greenbacks, though they have bank notes, like our own, 
 convertible into gold. All payments are here made in 
 gold instead of currency. They have gold coins for as 
 large a sum as twenty dollars (4Z.). It struck me that 
 it might be worth the consideration of our own Chan- 
 cellor of the Exchequer, whether pi(!ces of five sove- 
 reigns might not be useful in England. 
 
 Leaving the beautiful scenery around Colfax, the 
 hills became gradually lower till at last we reached a 
 plain where the burnt-up aspect showed that we were 
 in a southern clime. Passing the fine city of Sacra- 
 mento, the State capital of California, I stopped at 
 Lathrop, a junction station in the midst of a desolate
 
 16 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 plain, where I was detained several hours, with little to 
 do but to contemplate a bear kept here for the amuse- 
 ment of the public. At length the train started for 
 Merced, whence the stage starts for the Yosemite 
 Valley. Here I found a good hotel, and, after travel- 
 ling five nights out of six, I had hoped for a good sleep, 
 though a short one, but my slumbers were disturbed 
 by the plague of mosquitoes. 
 
 At six o'clock, on the morning of the 24th, I started 
 in the stage, my companions being two ladies and two 
 gentlemen from Indiana. Crossing an arid plain, 
 where the heat was great, we ascended a little, and 
 came to a village called Hornitos. Soon after this we 
 changed with the up-carriage, which was a great advan- 
 tage to me, as the previous one had no cover for my 
 head, as I had the box. This, as the temperature was 
 near 90°, was a great improvement. The road is often 
 little more than a track, while the dust is disagreeable, 
 and the jolting tremendous. We lunched at Mari- 
 posa, the capital of the district, round which is an 
 enormous estate of sixteen miles square, given by the 
 Government to General Fremont, and sold by him to a 
 company, of whose management I heard great com- 
 plaints. From Mariposa the road was beautiful, wind- 
 ing through wooded vales and over hills. We sur- 
 mounted a very long ascent just as it got completely 
 dark, but the negro who drove the stage guided us 
 down a four-mile descent with great dexterity, and 
 about eight o'clock we reached a station called Clark's, 
 in the midst of forests, where two long ranges of wooden
 
 PROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 17 
 
 rooraSj one for living and one for sleeping in, con- 
 stitute what in such, a locality is a comfortable inn. 
 Seeing the Duke of Manchester's photograph on the 
 wall, 1 found, on inquiry, that he had spent a week here. 
 I found the journey to the Yosemite a longer affair 
 than I had contemplated, and that I could not reach 
 San Francisco till the day before the sailing of the 
 steamer. This was inconvenient, and what added to 
 the inconvenience was that, being misled by an adver- 
 tisement, I had not allowed for the expense of the trip, 
 and as circular notes are not convertible in these wilds, 
 I had run short of money. This was very unpleasant, 
 particularly in a country where the hotel system does 
 not permit one to economize. However, my landlord, 
 Mr. Moore, whose kindness I gratefully remember, was 
 good enough to give me credit for my bill, which 
 enabled me to scrape through, and 1 had patiently 
 to submit to the curtailment of my stay in San 
 Francisco. 
 
 We went on horseback on the 25th to the Mariposa 
 big trees, and, after ascending through the woods for one 
 hour and a half, we reached what is called the " Fallen 
 Giant," an immense tree stretched along the ground 
 for 208 feet. Proceeding on, we visited others, called 
 the " Grisly Giant," " Ohio," '' Indiana," " Illinois," 
 &c. One of them has been found by measurement to 
 be 280 feet high, though Mr. Moore thinks another to 
 be 300. Most of them bear signs of fire, owing to fires 
 kindled sometimes by Indians, sometimes by shep- 
 herds, to clear away brushwood. The highest point 
 
 c
 
 18 A VISIT TO JAPAN,, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 we readied commanded a very fine view over boundless 
 forests, though one felt the want of water. After 
 leaving Clark^s, the road winds over a mountain chain 
 beautifully wooded, and commanding lovely views of 
 rock and dale, and descends into the Yosemite Valley, 
 passing what is called the Bridal Veil Fall. 
 
 The valley is situated at a height 4060 feet above 
 the sea, and is surrounded by mountains rising some 
 4000 or 5000 feet higher. The scenery is magnificent, 
 owing to the bold, precipitous, and rocky character of 
 the mountains, though it is deficient in those features 
 to which the Swiss traveller is accustomed, the glacier 
 and the avalanche. At the time of my visit there had 
 been a long drought, and consequently the Falls were 
 very low. The Yosemite Fall, opposite the village, 
 which in three different cascades descends for 2634 feet, 
 and I fancy must resemble the Eeichenbach at Mey- 
 ringen, was dry, and the Mirror Lake, which is so named 
 from the reflection of the surrounding mountains on 
 its waters, was low. A river, entering the valley, comes 
 down from the rocks above by what is named the 
 Nevada Fall, and a little farther on forms another, 
 called the Vernal — both beautiful. 
 
 The valley is quitted on horseback, the tourist rejoin- 
 ing the stage half-way on the road to Clark's. Here 
 every one rides, guides as well as travellers, the former 
 presenting a g-reat contrast to their hardy brethren 
 in Switzerland. The heat of the climate is some ex- 
 cuse for them. The path ascends the mountains at 
 the back of the village, and after a steep climb of two
 
 PROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 19 
 
 hours and a half, commanding fine views of the valley, 
 reaches Glacier Point (why so named I could not make 
 out, as there is no glacier), whence a splendid view is 
 obtained of the Mirror Lake, the Vernal and Nevada 
 Falls, and the surrounding scenery. We then pro- 
 ceeded to the Sentinel Dome, 8540 feet above the sea, 
 where a magnificent panorama presents itself of rocky 
 mountains and richly-wooded valleys. We rode on 
 through a park-like country which reminded me of 
 the line, — 
 
 " O'er California's pathless world of woods," 
 
 to the place where we rejoined the stage. This line of 
 Montgomery's puzzled me a good deal, for though it 
 is appropriate to the hilly region of the Sierra Nevada, 
 yet the coast of California, which was all that was 
 known when the poem was written, is destitute of 
 trees. We saw deer ranging about the forest, and I 
 understand that the poor Indians who are left in these 
 parts hunt them. 
 
 On leaving Clark's our party was joined by an en- 
 gineer engaged on the road, and at Mariposa by a 
 doctor, who complained that practice was so bad in 
 these parts that he could not remain there. After a 
 jolting and hot ride (the thermometer was 92° at 5 p.m.), 
 we reached Merced on the evening of the 29th, and 
 next morning I proceeded by train, through the fertile 
 though arid valley of St. Juan, to Lathrop, on the 
 Central Pacific main line. Merced is a specimen of the 
 way towns spring up in America. It is a new town, 
 
 c 2
 
 20 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 and yet it has a good and comfortable hotel, public 
 buildings, and, no doubt, one or more daily newspapers. 
 In America, every little place, instead of depending on 
 the larger cities, starts its own papers. The line from 
 Lathrop crosses some hilis, and, passing through a rather 
 pleasing country, reaches Oaklands, opposite San Fran- 
 cisco, with which it is connected by a steam ferry. Un- 
 fortunately a sea fog prevented my enjoying what must 
 be a magnificent scene, but I reached my destination 
 and put up at the Occidental Hotel, which struck me 
 as quite as good and a great deal cheaper than the 
 Fifth Avenue at New York. Mr. Snow, a gentleman 
 residing here, with whom I had crossed in the " City 
 of Chester,^^ and his partner, Dr. May, were most kind 
 in showing me about this magnificent city. I had to 
 arrange about my passage, and make preparations for 
 it, after which I took a walk through the noble streets, 
 which are particularly striking when one recollects that 
 the whole place has arisen in little more than thirty 
 years. 
 
 In the evening Mr. Snow took me to a great 
 exhibition for California, which was large and very 
 pretty ; and next morning showed me over the Palace 
 Hotel, the largest in the world, which was to be 
 opened in a few days, to accommodate 1500 
 people.' 
 
 To an Englishman it seems extraordinary how such 
 a gigantic hotel can pay, despite the large number 
 of travellers who visit San Francisco. I believe the 
 * It was opened about a fortnight afterwards.
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 21 
 
 explanation is to be found in the American habit of 
 residing in hotels. The expense of houses is so great 
 that married couples without encumbrance, or even 
 with small families, find it cheaper and more convenient 
 to patronize these great establishments than to set up 
 for themselves. 
 
 I much regretted that want of time, caused by my 
 detention at the Yosemite, prevented my visiting the 
 Chinese quarter, and learning something of the condition 
 of the large Chinese population which inhabits the city. 
 The emigration to California from China is on a very 
 large scale, and, as far as I could learn, is an advantage 
 to both countries. China has an overflowing population, 
 while California and the other Pacific States require 
 labour. In China wages are low ; in the Pacific States 
 they are high. Hence it is obviously for the interests 
 of both countries that emigration should go on. 
 After leaving Ogden one meets numerous Chinese. So 
 far as I could learn, they are generally well-conducted, 
 and I heard many people wishing they could get them 
 in the Eastern States, as they make capital servants. 
 Perhaps the climate would be a difficulty, as it is a 
 curious fact that the Northern Chinese never leave their 
 country, and the natives of Canton and Swatow would 
 sufier from the cold winters of New England and New 
 York. They seem to make themselves useful in various 
 capacities — as labourers on the railroads, as household 
 servants, and as traders. Sometimes they accumulate 
 considerable sums, and some of them become very rich. 
 They retain a great love for their native country, and
 
 22 A YISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 are anxious, when tliey have saved money, to return to 
 it ; but whether they live to revisit it or not, they make 
 arrangements that their bodies should be sent back to 
 be laid in the soil of China. As regards the Chinese 
 town in San Francisco, I apprehend that it much re- 
 sembles a city in China, though sanitary arrangements 
 and police supervision improve its aspect. Opium- 
 smoking and prostitution abound in it. Perhaps the 
 better class of Chinese, as a rule, proceed up country, 
 while the more dissolute remain in this vast city. 
 
 On the morning of Friday, October 1st (afterwards, 
 when we had much head-wind, it was remembered 
 that we sailed on a Friday), I took leave of my kind 
 friend, Mr. Snow, and proceeded in a lumbering coach, 
 which might have been built in the days of Louis XIV., 
 to the wharf of the Pacific Mail Steam Packet Com- 
 pany, where I embarked in the "Alaska,^^ Captain 
 Howard, which started at midday. The fog which pre- 
 vented my seeing much of the city continued, and we 
 passed through the celebrated Golden Gates, the en- 
 trance to the harbour of San Francisco, without being 
 able to see anything of them. This was disappointing 
 in a scene I never expected to see again. At two the 
 pilot left, and we commenced our voyage, the day being 
 cold and misty, but at about half-past five the fog 
 cleared, and we saw the Farralore Islands, or rather 
 rocks, the last vestige of land on the American coast, 
 distinguished by a flashing light. Mr. Schlatter, the 
 doctor of the ship, said, " Take a good look at them, 
 for it is the last land you will see for a month." His
 
 PROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 23 
 
 words were very unpalatable at the time^ but they 
 proved to be true. 
 
 I have said nothing of my impressions of the state of 
 affairs in the United States, because I feel that, in 
 hurriedly passing across the continent, without letters 
 of introduction to statesmen and others who could give 
 reliable information, it would be presumption to form 
 an opinion on many interesting questions. I am a 
 Churchman and a Tory ; I admire neither the religious 
 nor the political institutions of the Union, and my 
 principles were strengthened by what I saw and heard. 
 It is, however, only right that I should bear my grate- 
 ful testimony to the courtesy and the kindness I ex- 
 perienced from all with whom I came in contact. The 
 Americans seem very anxious that Englishmen should 
 receive a favourable impression of their country, and 
 often exert themselves to serve them. The only excep- 
 tion I found to this courtesy was not in America, but 
 on board the '' City of Chester.''* A drunken Yankee, 
 soon after leaving Queenstown, began abusing the 
 Prince of Wales. I was obliged to tell him, " You 
 must remember, sir, that T am an Englishman, and if 
 you insult my Prince you insult me." The fellow was 
 rude at the time, but was quiet during the remainder 
 of the voyage. 
 
 The " Alaska " is a fine large paddle-wheel steamer, 
 with a beam engine, of about 4000 tons. She is very 
 comfortable, as the cabins are large, the state-rooms 
 good, and there is a deck 115 yards long for exercise. 
 The great apprehension they seem to entertain is fire,
 
 2 t A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 ao-ainst which great pi^ecautions are taken. It struck 
 me that these vessels incur risk from their want of 
 power to sail. This is, I believe, the longest voyage 
 taken by steamers, as I am not speaking of sailing-ships 
 with auxiliary screw power. From San Francisco to 
 Yokohama direct is 4700 miles, though by going to 
 the north in a great circle it may be shortened to 4550, 
 but this often takes a boat into heavy weather. In our 
 case, owing to steering south to get into smooth water, 
 the distance traversed was 5060. Now in sailing west, 
 when head-winds are generally encountered, it is very 
 possible that a steamer may run short of coals. Except 
 Honolulu, which is 1500 miles from San Francisco, and 
 off the direct course many hundred miles, there is no 
 port to be gained, and a vessel out of coals, if unable 
 to sail, might be left to float for weeks. On the 
 Atlantic it would not be many days, probably not many 
 hours, before another ship hove in sight, but on the 
 Pacific no help is likely to be at hand. Hence it would 
 seem to be important that a steamer making this 
 ]ong voyage should be able to sail in case of acci- 
 dent, and the White Star boats, which have been 
 chartered to run alternately with the Pacific Mail, 
 are able to do so, as are the new screw-boats the 
 company are building. The old ships, however, de- 
 pend entirely on coal. I cannot but think that 
 making the passage to the West in them involves 
 a certain amount of risk. Coming East, of course 
 it is different, as the pi'evailing winds are west- 
 erly. It is said that, during several years they have
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 25 
 
 made the voyage^ no accident lias happened from this 
 cause. Still one can but regard the passage across the 
 Pacific in these boats lihe an unpleasant fence one has 
 safely ridden over^ and I should advise any one going 
 to Yokohama to arrange to take the White Star 
 steamer, unless the screw-vessels, which have been 
 recently built, are by this time repaired and running. 
 The Pacific Mail Company have lately built two splendid 
 screw-steamerSj the " City of Pekin " and the " City of 
 Takio/^ but the contractor so scandalously performed 
 his work that the " Pekin" had to be reconstructed, and 
 the " Takio," in which we were to have sailed, was de- 
 tained for repairs, though she performed the voyage a 
 month later, and was at Hongkong when I arrived 
 there. We started with 1400 tons of coal, and had 100 
 left on arrival, but there are several instances of ships 
 being reduced to a very few tons. In one instaace they 
 had not ten tons left. The high upper deck, on which 
 several cabins are placed, is a hindrance with adverse 
 winds. The passage is supposed to take from twenty 
 to twenty -five days, but it is oftener the latter than the 
 former. After crossing the Atlantic at the rate of 380 
 miles a day, one thinks these boats might accomplish 
 220, but the necessity of husbanding coals for this 
 long voyage over an unfrequented sea often precludes 
 this. 
 
 Our company consisted of between thirty and forty 
 cabin passengers, including Captain Von Essendecker, 
 the German Minister at Yeddo, Baron Von Gumschmid, 
 his Secretary of Legation, and Mr. Morton, a lawyer of
 
 26 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Boston, There was a large party of Baptist raissionaries 
 proceeding to different places in China and Japan, 
 besides two doctors in the American navy, a barrister of 
 Hongkong, and several '^ globe- trollers," as those who 
 travel round the world are called in China. On Sun- 
 days the service of the American Episcopal Church was 
 read, and Mr. McKippin, a missionary proceeding to 
 Swatow, preached. We had a very large number of 
 Chinese on board ; the waiters at dinner, who looked 
 picturesque, were Chinese, the sailors were Chinese, and 
 we had about 800 steerage passengers Chinese. These 
 latter were returning to China with their little fortunes. 
 They are sad gamblers, and, I was told, sometimes lose 
 the whole of their savings in making bets on the day's 
 run. Many of them are addicted to opium-smoking, 
 and frequent the den where it is allowed, which seems 
 always thronged. One of the few women on board 
 came to Captain Howard saying if she did not have 
 opium she should die. He had forbidden her the opium 
 room, but thought himself obliged to allow her to go 
 there for two hours, which time she said she required. 
 The Chinese sleep in the lower part of the ship, and 
 many of them, if permitted, would remain there all day, 
 but the captain finds it necessary to turn them all out 
 for the sake of ventilation. It is on such regulations 
 that the health of ships must greatly depend, and I 
 have been told that sickness generally prevails where 
 captains do not understand the habits of emigrants. 
 The crew is composed of Swatow men. There is such 
 an enmity between the inhabitants of the two districts
 
 FROM LONDON TO JAPAN. 27 
 
 of Canton and Swatow, that it is thought undesirable 
 to have them together : — 
 
 " Est inter finitimos vetus et antiqua simultas." 
 
 They, however, resemble each other in being a migra- 
 tory race, while the inhabitants of Northern China 
 seldom or never leave their country. 
 
 On the 2nd, the day after we started, we passed a 
 ship, and on the 7th, Captain Howard thought he saw 
 the smoke of a steamer, supposed to be the " Colorado,^* 
 the Pacific Mail steamer, bound to San Franciisco, in 
 the offing. With this exception we saw nothing but 
 sea-gulls and flying fish during the whole voyage. 
 We were for a long time 1000 to 1500 miles from 
 the nearest land, alone in this vast, solitary ocean. 
 What a comfort is it, under such circumstances, to 
 remember that " The eternal God is our refuge, and 
 underneath are the everlasting arms" ! 
 
 The first two or three days were fine, and we made 
 about 1 76 knots a day. It then came on to blow, and 
 though we had not a positive storm, yet we had a great 
 deal of heavy weather with head-winds. Our distance 
 fell day by day, 142, 128, till on the 13th it reached 
 the minimum, 106. In order to get out of head-winds, 
 the captain steered south, and we got as low as latitude 
 29. This ultimately succeeded, as the weather became 
 calm, but when the change took place, we had drawn 
 so largely on our supply of coals, that he was afraid 
 to put on steam, and we continued to make slow pro- 
 gress. Ultimately he grew more easy on this point.
 
 28 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 and we made 233 on the 27th, and 236 on the 31st. 
 The average of our thirty days^ passage was 168. At 
 sea, the great subject of conversation is the progress 
 made, and people .pulled long faces at its slowness. 
 The baron was particularly doleful, talking about eating 
 his Christmas dinner on board the " Alaska.''^ I used 
 to tell him that he, of all people, need not mind, as he 
 would see quite enough of Japan before he left it, while 
 as to some of us, our detention ruined our chance of 
 seeing Pekin. 
 
 Soon after three on the 20th, we crossed the parallel 
 of 180° longitude opposite the meridian of Greenwich, 
 and consequently Thursday the 21st was dropped out 
 of our calendar. In going West, each day gets longer 
 than its predecessor by four minutes for every degree 
 you travel. In crossing the Atlantic it is half an hour 
 later ; even with our slow progress on the Pacific, a 
 quarter ; in crosising the American continent by railway, 
 it is almost an hour. Hence one day gets added on to 
 others. People talk about losing a day, and in the 
 sense that you eat one dinner less in your life you do. 
 In going East it is the reverse. Here each day is shorter 
 than twenty-four hours, according to the distance you 
 travel, and a day has to be intercalated. The time is the 
 reverse of that at Greenwich, midday here being mid- 
 night there. As the 1 80th degree, with the exception 
 of some land in the Arctic regions, passes entirely across 
 the sea, these corrections have always to be made on 
 shipboard. 
 
 The views of the ocean by moonlight were very beau-
 
 FEOM LONDON TO JAPAN. 29 
 
 tiful. Large flocks of gulls followed the sliip^ and 
 flying fish were often visible. A voyage gives one a 
 good deal of time for reading, and fortunately the 
 " AJaska " had a library on board. Though tedious, I 
 thought myself as well oS" as if I had been at the sea- 
 side. It seems to me quite as pleasant to be enjoying 
 the sea air in a good ship as to be counting the waves 
 at Brighton. At length our long voyage drew to an 
 end. On Sunday the 31st, after service, the distance 
 was posted up as 143 to Yokohama. Several land- 
 birds appeared, driven out by the wind, and settled on 
 the vessel. It blew hard at night, and we were glad 
 that, under the care of a protecting Providence, we were 
 near our destination, and had not to encounter a gale 
 far from land.
 
 30 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 EXCUESIONS IN JAPAN. 
 
 On coming on deck early on the morning of November 
 1st, I found tlie Japanese land before us. The outline 
 of mountains rising to considerable heights, and sinking 
 with wooded sides into the water, with countless white 
 sails of junks in the foreground, constituted a lovely 
 scene, which a month at sea fitted us to enjoy. The 
 sail up the arm of the sea, in which Yokohama 
 is situated, and which extends to Yeddo, is very 
 fine, reminding me of the entrance to Plymouth 
 Sound. 
 
 At twelve o'clock, after a passage of thirty days, 
 six hours, twenty-eight minutes, we anchored oppo- 
 site the beautiful town of Yokohama, in a harbour 
 filled with men-of-war and ships of various nations, 
 when I took leave of Captain Howard and the 
 " Alaska," 
 
 " Though lost to sight, to memory dear," 
 
 as the baron said of her, and once more set foot on 
 terra firma.
 
 EXCURSIONS m JAPAN. 31 
 
 I established myself at the Grand Hotel — a very 
 comfortable house — managed by a company, of which 
 Mr, Smith, a gentleman whose public spirit has done 
 much for Yokohama, and to whose courtesy and 
 knowledge of Japan travellers who consult him are 
 much indebted, is a leading director. There are 
 several other hotels in the town. The first thing 
 which strikes one on landing is the jinrikisha, the 
 conveyance of the country, which is a seat placed on 
 wheels, and drawn by one or, for longer distances, two 
 men, who run along, sometimes going as much as 
 seven miles an hour. It is comfortable, though for 
 my part I do not like turning men into cattle. In the 
 afternoon I paid a visit to Yeddo, returning to Yoko- 
 hama to dinner. The distance of nearly twenty miles 
 is accomplished by a railway, recently constructed, 
 which runs at a little distance from the shores of the 
 gulf, through fields of rice, passing several villages. 
 The snowy mass of Fusiama, the great volcano of 
 Japan, rising to the height of nearly 13,000 feet, looks 
 very striking from the line. My object in going at 
 once to Yeddo was to consult Sir Harry Parkes, the 
 British Minister there, as to the possibility of visiting 
 Pekin. He very kindly considered the question, and 
 told me, unless I was prepared to give up seeing Japan 
 and to proceed at once to China, I could not attempt it. 
 I felt that it would be most unwise to hurry on, and 
 therefore abandoned the idea of Pekin. I found after- 
 wards that those who arrived three weeks earlier 
 thought themselves too late to attempt it.
 
 32 
 
 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 It is curious to have been cut off from all com- 
 munication with the world for a month. On the day we 
 left S;in I^'rancisco a telegram appeared in the papers, 
 copied from the Times of the same morning, which the 
 eight hours' difference in time admits, giving a most 
 alarming account of the complications in connexion with 
 Herzegovina. On arriving in Japan, our first question 
 was whether there was any news from Turkey, and 
 whether war had broken out ; and we were surprised to 
 learn that the question continued in statu quo. Next 
 day I again visited Yeddo and took tiffin, as lunch is 
 called in the East, with Sir Harry and Lady Parkes, 
 where I met Baron Struve, the Russian Minister, who 
 was just removing his head-quarters from Yokohama 
 to Yeddo, as most of his diplomatic brethren have done 
 before him. Yeddo, or Tokio, as it is sometimes called, 
 meaning Eastern capital, as distinguished from Kioto, 
 the Western capital, was long the capital of the 
 Tycoons, and is now of the Emperors. The idea used 
 to prevail that the temporal sovereign of Japan, called 
 Tycoon or Shogun, ruled at Tokio, while the Mikado, 
 or spiritual potentate, reigned at Kioto. This idea 
 turned out to be unfounded. The state of Japan, 
 twenty years since, presented many analogies to the 
 state of Europe in the dark ages. The Mikado was a 
 roi faineant, like the Merovingians or later Carlo- 
 vingians, though, being supposed by the people to be 
 the Son of the Gods, he could not be dethroned. He 
 resided in stately seclusion in his palace at Kioto, 
 surrouaded by courtiers and concubines. The Shogun,
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 33 
 
 at Tokio, was the mayor of the palace and the general 
 of the 'kingdom, while the great Daimios, or native 
 princes, answered to the feudal nobles. The jealousy 
 between the Shogun and the Daimios was constant ; 
 and to secure his power the former compelled the 
 latter to reside at Tokio, or, if absent at their estates, 
 to leave their wives and children as hostages. "J^he 
 Daimios were in the habit of maintaininof larg-e bodies 
 of armed retainers, soldiers carrying two swords, 
 whose lawless excesses were the terror of the people. 
 It was remarkable that the nominal and the real power 
 often resided in different hands by a system of regents. 
 The Mikado was frequently a child under a guardian. 
 So also was the Shogun; so, too, some of the chief 
 Daimios. The nominal rulers, if not minors, were too 
 often sunk in sensuality and sloth, and ambitious men 
 wielded power in their names. lyeyas, the founder of 
 the last dynasty of Shoguns, who, by his genius and 
 valour, raised himself above his fellow-daimios to the 
 government of the kingdom, must have been a great 
 man ; but it was impossible that his descendants, 
 during nearly three centmnes, should retain his abilities, 
 though the last Tycoon, who is now living in retirement, 
 appears to have been worthy of a better fate. The 
 wonder- seems to be that the Shoguns should have 
 resisted the intrigues of their rivals for so long a 
 period ; but the forced entrance of foreigners into the 
 country precipitated a revolution, which could hardly 
 have been much longer delayed. The Daimios over- 
 came the Tycoons. The Mikado, who is now Called 
 
 D
 
 3-dt A VISIT TO JAPAXj CHINA^ AND IN]>IA. 
 
 the Emperor, removed from Kioto to Tokio, and the 
 administration is carried on in Lis name, though, as he 
 is very young, and said to be deficient in abilit}^, the 
 great struggle is to get possession of his person. 
 Sanjo, formerly a retainer of one of the great houses, 
 has for some years cai-ried on the government, though, 
 at ihe moment of my visit, Saburo, the chief of the 
 great clan of Satsuma, was making an eifort to 
 displace him. What is very remarkable is that the 
 great Daimios have quietly given up their armed 
 retainers, and the carrying of arms is now prohibited. 
 The disarmament of these samurai or two-sworded men 
 has greatly conduced to the peace of the country, 
 though how to provide for them is one of the great 
 difficulties of the time — a difficulty which may perhaps 
 force Japan into war. 
 
 After tiffin I visited Sheva, the last resting-place of 
 many of the Tycoons. This collection of tombs and 
 temples spreads over a considerable space. The temples 
 are not large, but very ornate, presenting a contrast to 
 the size and interior plainness of Mohammedan mosques. 
 I ascended what are called the 100 steps, though they are 
 really more, to a terrace commanding a full view over 
 Yeddo. The vast city, situated on the shores of its 
 gulf, stretches away towards the East till it is lost in the 
 distance. Its large scattered buildings and wide streets 
 are estimated to contain 800,000 people. On the other 
 side the sun was sinking behind the snow of Fusiama. 
 I thought it had just risen in dear old England. I 
 returned to Yokohama third class, which gave me an
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 35 
 
 opportunity of seeing sometliiug of the lower class 
 of Japanese. From the loose-flowing robes of both 
 sexes it is difficult to distinguish the men from the 
 women. The men shave part of their heads, and wear 
 the rest of their hair in a knot. The upper classes 
 wear European dress, though Saburo and the party 
 which he leads retain the national costume. The people 
 smoke very small pipes of tobacco, which constantly 
 require refilling. The use of opium is unknown here. 
 The 3rd, being the Emperor's birthday, was observed 
 in European fashion by reviews, illuminations, and 
 dinners. I took an early tiffin with Mr. Kingdon, a 
 merchant who lives on the Bluff — a plateau overlooking 
 the town, where most Europeans reside. I met a party 
 who were going to the Yokohama races, the first in- 
 stitution which Western civihzation introduced into 
 Japan. 
 
 After tiffin I started on an expedition to the Hills, 
 under a Government passport procured for me by Sir 
 Harry Parkes. No foreigner is allowed to go beyond 
 certain limits fixed by treaty without permission from 
 the Japanese Government, which is given on the appli- 
 cation of the Minister of the nation to which he beloDgs. 
 It is one of the remarkable -circumstances connected 
 ■with Japan that whereas within a few years the Minis- 
 ters of the Treaty Powers lived in fear of their lives, 
 one can now travel through the whole country without 
 the smallest apprehension. On my saying to Mr. Smith 
 that I supposed I might walk about Yokohama as 
 freely as I might about London, he replied, "Yes, 
 
 D 2
 
 36 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 with this difference, that in Loudon you might lose 
 your watch ; in Yokohama you won't/^ Some people 
 advised me to take an interpreter, but the. one who 
 was recommended to me was engaged, and I therefore 
 trusted to signs and tbe few words of English which 
 my jinrikisha men knew. I always think valets de place 
 a nuisance in all countries, and having made my way 
 from St. Petersburg to Sebastopol with no knowledge of 
 Russian, except the numbers and the important word 
 " skolko ^' (how much), I had come to the conclusion 
 that it is easier to get along in a strange language 
 than is generally supposed. Lady Parkes remai-ked 
 to me, on my return, that the Japanese were always 
 very kind to those who went without servants, and so I 
 found it. I had a good-sized jinrikisha, with a head in 
 case of rain, two men who went for a dollar a day 
 each, and a basket of provisions, as the native inns or 
 tea-houses only produce eggs, rice, and fish. Leaving 
 Yokohama about two o'clock, we passed through some 
 pretty valleys, chiefly producing rice, and at length 
 began to ascend. The day was unfortunately rather 
 wet, but, on reaching the summit of the pass, a lovely 
 prospect over hill and woodland, with some fine islands 
 in the sea in the background, met the eye. We 
 descended to Kanasawa, beautifully situated at the 
 head of a gulf, and proceeded to Kamakura, the 
 capital of this part of Japan before the Tycoons built 
 Yeddo. It is now merely a collection of scattered 
 hamlets, though, when the Jesuits visited it in the 
 sixteenth century, they estimated the population at
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 37 
 
 200,000. Here I stopped at the Japanese tea-house, 
 one of the houses of the village turned into an inn. 
 It was built with sliding panels between the rooms, 
 and if the people were not honest you would be easily 
 robbed, as it would be impossible to lock yourself in. 
 Japanese houses are well described by Baron Von 
 Hubner in his '' Ramble round the World,''^ who says, 
 ''The temples, castles, palaces, middle-class houses, 
 and poor cottages are all composed of the same ele- 
 ments — a flooring raised a certain number of feet above 
 the soil (which is a necessary precaution against damp 
 and reptiles], then four or more vertical beams and a 
 heavy roof. The partition walls are only frames 
 covered with paper running in a groove. The oxitside 
 wall is replaced by wooden shutters, fastened during 
 the night. In tlie temples, castles, and yashkis there 
 is besides a real wall of stone covered with cement. 
 All the rest is in wood. It is the most primitive con- 
 struction possible, and at the same time the most 
 suited to the climate, and to the financial position of 
 the nation. It resists earthquakes and typhoons infi- 
 nitely better than the stone houses of the Europeans. 
 It is more exposed to the danger of fire ; but even if 
 injured or destroyed by fire, wind, or the earth's convul- 
 sions, the evil is remedied both promptly and easily." 
 
 In such a house I for the first time dined and slept. 
 On my return to Yokohama I heard that two shocks 
 of an earthquake were felt during this night. Whether 
 they did not extend to Kamakura, or whether I slept too 
 sound to notice them, I do not know, but I felt nothing 
 
 211374
 
 38 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 of tliem. Earthquakes are frequent here, though I 
 should think hardly so frequent as at San Francisco. 
 Next morning I visited the great temple of Kamakura, 
 dedicated to Shinto. It is a fine specimen of a Japanese 
 temple, with a grove of trees leading to it. Here 
 several curious relics of the history of Japan are 
 shown. It is remarkable as the scene of the murder of 
 Sanitomo,the last Shogunof the lineof Yoritomo. About 
 a mile further on we came to Dar Butsn, the great 
 statue of Budda. According to a statement placed 
 there, it is 144 feet high, and 87 feet in circumference ; 
 the length of the eyes is 3 h feet, that of the ears 6 feet, 
 the width of the mouth 3 feet, the circumference of 
 the thumb 3^ feet, and that of the leg 34 feet. Inside 
 it is a sort of chapel. It reminded me of the Sphinx ; 
 but it enjoys the advantage of sitting in solitary 
 grandeur, while the Egyptian monster suffers by com- 
 parison with its gigantic neighbours the Pyramids. 
 I gave up visiting the island of Yenosima, needlessly 
 as I afterwards found, and proceeded through pi'etty 
 valleys with a fine view of Fusiama to Fujisawa, where 
 we joined the Tokaido, the great road of Japan. This 
 road runs from one end of the island to the other, 
 and does great credit to Japanese energy. It is the 
 route from Tokio to Kioto. Passing a succession of 
 populous towns we reached Odawara, the chief city of 
 these parts, situated on the sea. Here my men wanted 
 to stop, but, following the paper of instructions I had, 
 I insisted on going on ; and it was well I did so, as 
 the following day was sufiiciently long. Leaving the
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. oO 
 
 jiurikislia^ as the mountain path was impracticaLlo for 
 wheels, we walked sis miles to Hata. Leaving the 
 Bay of Oclawara, we began to ascend through lovely 
 valleys, passing the village of Yamoto. Near this the 
 road terminated, and was succeeded by a path of great 
 stone boulders which would be difficult for horses. 
 The walk was beautiful, but it grew dark, except the 
 light of a youDg moon, about an hour before we 
 reached Hata. Here it was with some difficulty we got 
 taken in, but I managed to get what I wanted— a room 
 to lie down in. On the morning of the 5th, sending one 
 of my men back with my things to Odawara, I started 
 with the other as guide for Hakone. From Hata to 
 Hakone is four miles, and from Hakone, by Myauoshila, 
 to Oduwara is fourteen. After reaching the summit 
 of the pass, which reminds one of Switzerland, the Lake 
 of Hakone comes in view, with Fusiama in the distance, 
 presenting a beautiful scene, though the hills round are 
 barren. Descending through woods the path goes round 
 the end of the lake to the village of Hakone, beyond 
 which one sees the Tokaido, marked by telegraph jjoles, 
 winding its way to Kioto. I ought to have taken a boat 
 on the lake, but from not speaking the language, I failed 
 to arrange for one. I therefore retraced my steps, 
 and after visiting the deserted temples of Mota Hakone, 
 situated amid lovely woods on the shores of the lake, 
 I reascended to the pass, and, turning to the left, 
 passed over a desolate mountain ti'act with two small 
 lakes, where were some figures either of Shiuto or 
 Budda, and descended to the village of Ashiuoya.
 
 40 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 As we descended further we came into wooded valleys 
 and reached the beautiful village of Myanoshita, cele- 
 brated for its hot baths. The walk from here to 
 Yamoto is lovely. The path descends through woods 
 with a stream murmuring below^ reminding me of the 
 most beautiful valleys of the Alps. At the pretty 
 village of Togi Sani the stream is reached^ and the 
 path lies along its banks to Yamoto^ shortly after 
 which place it joins that to Hata amid striking scenery. 
 My jinrikisha met me some three miles from Odawara, 
 which possesses an inn of some pretensions, as it has 
 beds without sheets and rooms without panels. 
 
 Next day I returned along the Tokaido. During this 
 excursion I have been entirely among the Japanese, 
 with no one with whom I could converse, which has 
 given me the opportunity of watching the life of the 
 lower classes. I was very much struck with the large 
 population. Never, except near populous cities, have I 
 seen such a succession of houses without intermission. 
 This explains the figures of the official census of 1872, 
 which fixes the entire population at 33,110,825. In 
 some respects they are a very primitive people, and 
 the dress of both sexes, when at work, is very scanty. 
 On the other hand, their streets are very clean. The 
 men go through immense labour, running with horses 
 and jinrikishas, and carrying burdens, while the women, 
 and sometimes quite little girls, carry heavy children, 
 slung in their cloaks behind their backs. There seems 
 little religion among them, for, though the temples are 
 numerous, there are hardly any worshippers. It was
 
 EXCURSIONS m JAPAN. 41 
 
 my first visit to a heathen land, and contrasting these 
 people with the inhabitants of Turkey, Syria, and 
 Egypt, made me think that the absence of idolatry 
 places the Mohammedans, with all their errors, in a far 
 superior position to the worshippers of idols. It made 
 me feel the immense im^^ortance of Christian missions 
 in Japan. We have forced our way into the country, 
 but Europeans too often imitate the vices and the immo- 
 rality of the natives ; and unless we g'ive them the Bible, 
 we shall have done them harm instead of good. Our route 
 was along the Tokaido, which, after leaving Eujisawa, 
 passes through pretty valleys, which lead down to the 
 plain in which Yokohama is situated. The 7th was 
 Sunday, and for the second time since leaving home 
 I was glad to be able to attend church, which was very 
 full. Before evening service I took a walk on the 
 BluflP, which commands charming views over the gulf. 
 The " Oceanic,^^ the White Star boat, which left San 
 Francisco on the 16th, arrived at midday, thus gaining 
 nine days on the " Alaska." She went the northern 
 course of only 4500 miles, though she had encountered 
 some heavy weather. 
 
 On the 8th I visited Yeddo, to give up my pass for 
 Hakone, as the Japanese Government expect passes to 
 be retui-ned after the journey is accomplished, to ask 
 for one for Kioto, and to take leave of Sir H. and Lady 
 Parkes, who had been most kind to me. It is a great 
 advantage to the interests of England to have at Yeddo 
 a statesman of the talents, experience, and knowledge 
 of the East possessed by Sir Harry Parkes, while the
 
 42 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 services he lias rendered to Japan by his exertions to 
 promote the morality and improvement of the people 
 deserve to be gratefully remembered. In a country 
 which in a few years has shaken off the system which 
 has prevailed for ten centuries, and is now striving to 
 enter on a course of imitation of Western civilization, 
 it is of immense importance that the representatives of 
 the Great Powers should act with wisdom, and there- 
 fore it is of the utmost consequence to Great Britain 
 that her minister should be a man who can maintain 
 her iufluence. In the evening Baron Von Gumschmid, 
 who was settling into his duties at the German Legation, 
 dined with me. I was much indebted to his conversa- 
 tion for whiling away time during our long and tedious 
 voyage. 
 
 I devoted next day to a stroll through Yeddo, 
 which is situated on a gulf so wide that the opposite 
 shore is lost in the distance. The grounds of the castle, 
 formerly occupied by the Tycoon, and now by the 
 Emperor, take up a very large space ; and there are, 
 besides, several castles of Daimios, who were forced to 
 reside there by the jealousy of the Shoguns. I walked 
 up the principal street, visiting an exhibition of 
 Japanese curiosities, and a show of monkeys, which 
 seemed to amuse the people. One seems in a thoroughly 
 foreign land. The dark-coloured population of both 
 sexes, with their curious head-gear and loose-flowing 
 robes, the Buddhist priests, with their completely shaven 
 heads, yellow dresses, the innumerable jiurikishas, the 
 grooms running in attendance on their horses, make up
 
 EXCUESIONS IN JAPAN. 43 
 
 a striking scene. The women here move about as freely 
 as they do in Europe — a great contrast to Mohammedan 
 countries. Whether for semi-civilized countries the 
 Mohammedan plan is not the best is a point which may 
 well be doubted. After seeing a temple which has been 
 turned into a library, I reached a plateau, covered with 
 woods, with several very fine temples interspersed among 
 them. It seemed a place of great resort to the inhabitants 
 of Yeddo. One of these temples, which were much 
 ornamented, seemed filled with worshippers. It was 
 the first time I had seen any evidence of superstitious 
 feeling on the part of the Japanese, who struck me as 
 a people destitute of all religion. It seems as though 
 infidelity was on the increase here, as in many other 
 parts of the world. I recollect the celebrated traveller. 
 Captain Speke, whose melancholy fate caused such 
 general grief, telling me that among the savage tribes 
 among whom he travelled, what he called "Oolensoism" 
 was making great progress. It would seem, in like 
 manner, that the Japanese are losing belief in their old 
 religions. God grant they may find the true faith ! In 
 the evening, in company with Mr Otto, one of my 
 companions in the " Alaska,^^ I went to a Japanese 
 theatre. The performance goes on from the afternoon 
 till late in the night. The people seemed much to enjoy 
 it, and according to appearance it was very decently 
 conducted. Whether the language was obscene I of 
 course could not judge ; but the conversation of the 
 lower classes is said to be very disgusting. 
 
 On the 10th I took my passage for Shanghai, with
 
 41 • A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 permission to stop at Kobe, for sixty-five dollars. Till 
 within the last few weeks the American Company, the 
 Pacific Mail, had been running in opposition to the 
 Mitsu Bishi, the Japanese Company, and the fares had 
 been very low — I thi:\k only twenty dollars from 
 Yokohama to Shanghai. Hence passengers were ad- 
 vised at San Francisco not to book beyond Yokohama ; 
 but while we were on the Pacific the Japanese bought 
 up the American boats, and raised the charge to 
 sixty-five dollars. At this there was much grumbling, 
 though, compared with other fares in the Chinese 
 seas, it did not seem excessive. The currency in 
 Japan is in a curious position, as all payments are 
 made in Japanese notes (down to ten cents). As these 
 are printed in Chinese characters, it takes a good deal 
 of trouble to learn the difi"erent descriptions. From 
 all I could gather, finance is the great difiiculty of 
 Japan, as of many other countries. Now, we know 
 that when finances are bad, and cash payments sus- 
 pended, gold is always at a premium. Such, at the 
 present moment, is the case in Eussia, Austria, Italy, 
 and the United States. In the course of my journey, 
 gold was seventeen premium in New York, and seven 
 in Italy, where I had known it ten barely twelve months 
 before. What struck me as extraordinary in Japan 
 was, that, with the finances in a critical position, and 
 cash payments suspended, gold commanded no pre- 
 mium — in fact, was at a small discount. The people 
 seemed to prefer paper. On the day of my landiug I 
 tendered at the railway station a Mexican dollar as
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 45 
 
 the fare to Teddo. The clerk did not evidently Hke 
 it ; but^ as we spoke no language in common^ he at 
 length received it. On my inquiring about this at the 
 hotel, they told me he would make a loss, though al- 
 most infinitesimal, on my dollar. Before starting for 
 Hakone, as I was going where I had little means of 
 communication, 1 was anxious to lay in a stock of 
 Yens (paper dollars), Bus (quarter dollars), and lesser 
 notes ; but these were procured for me with some 
 difficulty, and at a premium. This extravagant fond- 
 ness for paper is different from anything I ever ex- 
 perienced elsewhere. I had a curious walk through 
 the town, endeavouring to find Mr. Kingdon^s ofiice. 
 The houses were numbered in a wa,y I could not com- 
 prehend, and my inquiries, which I had been in- 
 structed to make for Kiugdon Sah, were of no avail. 
 At length I found a shop with " cordonnier " over it, 
 and I accosted a civil shopkeeper in French, but found 
 him glad to exchange it for Italian, though, in reply 
 to my remark that he was an Italian, he said, " lo 
 sono Francese.'^ Tlie French are not a travelling 
 people, and one very rarely meets them here. I 
 lunched at the hotel with Mr. Morton, who had crossed 
 in the "' Alaska,^^ — a very superior man, but an intense 
 American. He seemed to think that Japan might 
 become a State of the Union. I told him that a semi- 
 barbarous people required to be governed, and that 
 they seemed to me utterly unfitted for the advanced 
 institutions of the States. 
 
 In the afternoon I left the Grand Hotel, where I had
 
 46 A TISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 been very comfortable, and embarked on board the 
 steamer " Golden Age," Captain Furber, which, since it 
 has changed hands, rejoices in a Japanese name. We 
 were a large company, including several of my fellow- 
 passengers who were proceeding to Shanghai, while 
 many of the inhabitants of Yokohama came to see us off. 
 The afternoon was wet and misty, which spoiled the 
 beauty of the sail down the gulf. Next day was fine, 
 though the morning was very rough, and as the land 
 trends in we seemed to be far out at sea. In the after- 
 noon we were again near land, and enjoyed a very 
 beautiful sail as long as daylight lasted. Though the 
 Japanese have purchased the Pacific Mail boats, they 
 have to leave the American captains and officers in 
 charge. This they are compelled to do, as otherwise the 
 underwriters would refuse to insure. Captain Furber has 
 a great reputation for his knowledge of these dangerous 
 seas. 
 
 On waking on the morning of the 12th I found we 
 were at anchor in the harbour of Kobe. The houses of 
 Hiogo and Kobe are built along the shore, and join 
 each other like Hastings and St. Leonards. Hiogo 
 is the treaty port, and the consuls are described as 
 consuls at Hiogo ; but their residences, together with 
 those of the leading merchants, are at Kobe, which is a 
 very pretty seaside town. Leaving the " Golden Age,'^ 
 and breakfasting at Mrs. Green's Hiogo Hotel, I pro- 
 ceeded, without loss of time, by railway to Osaka. 
 The line first skirts the beautiful gulf, and then runs 
 through a plain (inland) . I was told that the Japanese 
 have been much swindled about their railways, wliich
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 47 
 
 have cost 30^000?. a mile^ though the country is easy 
 for their construction. It is intended to continue this 
 line from Osaka to Kioto, which will be a great con- 
 venience to future travellers, who, by making the most 
 of their time, will be able to see Kioto during the day 
 that the steamer remains at Kobo, and resume their 
 voyage. At present a visit to Kioto involves a deten- 
 tion of a week. At Osaka I took a jinrikisha and two 
 men, who went tandem, while those I took to Hakoni 
 had gone, one drawing, one helping behind. The 
 charge for these journeys is about one dollar each man 
 a day. Universal as jinrikishas now are even in parts of 
 Japan where foreigners are unknown, they are of very 
 recent introduction, and seven years ago were unheard 
 of. The old national conveyances were norimons and 
 congos. The norimon is a sort of cage, very small to 
 contain a human being, slung on a pole, and carried 
 by two men. The congo is a wooden bed, in the form 
 of a hammock, similarly slung and carried. The road 
 from Osaka to Kioto lies along the banks of the Yodo- 
 gawa, which is crossed by a ferry in the course of the 
 journey. The distance is thirty-two miles ; but the 
 ride is a dull one, as there is no scenery, except distant 
 hills. The cleanliness of the Japanese towns and 
 villages is remark::ible, and contrasts favourably with 
 more civilized countries — notably with France. At 
 Fujimi the river is left, and one turns into the plain in 
 which Kioto is situated. My men stopped about 
 nightfall at a place where a curious collection of 
 temples stood among gardens. It was quite dark 
 when we entered Kioto, where I stopped at an inn.
 
 48 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 which, though it provided an elaborate cuisine, had 
 the Japanese characteristics of wooden walls and sliding 
 panels, which, as the weather was cold, were not con- 
 ducive to comfort. Moreover, though they professed 
 to speak English, it was of the most meagre descrip- 
 tion. The people warm themselves over small charcoal 
 hand stoves. The hotel is close to the Gion temple, 
 and at night I saw a Japanese haranguing a crowded 
 audience in a room connected with the temple. The 
 people here seemed to show much more respect for 
 religion than those farther East. Next day I walked 
 to Oats, on Lake Biwa (pronounced Blva), situated 
 three ris, or seven miles and a half, from Kioto. Leaving 
 the town by the Tokaido, the great road from Yeddo, 
 I crossed a chain of hills, and came down into another 
 plain, also suiTOunded by lovely hills. After traversing 
 this plain the road ascends a beautiful pass, and then 
 descends to Oats, a large Japanese town, which is 
 situated at the corner of the lake, a large sheet of 
 water with a plain on one side, but with volcanic 
 mountains in all directions around. There are steamers 
 on Lake Biwa ; but, so far as I could ascertain, as I 
 could find no one who spoke more than a few words of 
 English, none crossed and returned during the day, so 
 I abandoned, with regret, the idea of a voyage upon 
 it. After lunching at a tea-house on some cake and 
 Japanese wine, called sakki^ I retraced my steps, 
 visiting some temples and cemeteries to the north of 
 Kioto. After dinner I took a stroll through the city, 
 and as it was full moon I had the pleasure —
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 49 
 
 " To see it by moonlight, when mellowly shines 
 The light o'er its palaces, gardens, and shrines." 
 
 The 14tli was Sunday. It felt solemn to spend a 
 solitary Sabbath in the midst of this vast heathen city. 
 May God in His great mercy speedily send the Gospel 
 to it ! After reading the Church service, I took a long 
 ramble through the town, which gave me a general idea 
 of it preliminary to Monday, which I devoted to sight- 
 seeing. 
 
 Kioto is situated in a large plain, on all sides 
 surrounded by hills. The town is on the western side, 
 and the hill behind it commands a very fine view. 
 This hill is covered with beautiful woods, and appeared 
 to be the site for tea-gardens. The inscription over 
 one of these was in English, or an attempt at it, an- 
 nouncing : — - 
 
 " Artificial warm mineral sprino 
 Principallij containing 
 Ferri carbon as." 
 
 Around the town are rice-fields, the common feature 
 of Japan. These rice-fields require constant irrigation, 
 which one would think was unhealthy, though the 
 people do not appear to suSer from it. The sewage is 
 carefully preserved for manure for the land. I visited 
 a great idol called Darbutz, which consisted of an enor- 
 mous head, I should think twenty to twenty-five feet 
 high, placed in a temple. I had not access to figures, but 
 it did not strike me as being as large as the idol at Kama- 
 kura. Close by is a very curious temple called Sanji 
 
 E
 
 50 A YISIT TO JAPAN_, CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 Sanguento. A great idol sits on a throne with a small 
 head over the great head_, four other smaller ones in the 
 coronet, and twenty-four hands. Immediately around 
 twenty-six devilish-looking figures are grouped, while in 
 long rows on either side, 1000 other figures are placed^ in 
 an attitude of devotion, the latter of a not unpleasing 
 aspect. It is a remarkable and melancholy exhibition 
 of idolatry. The great Buddhist temple of Nishihan- 
 guan-ji is a collection of several buildings which are 
 good specimens of Japanese temples, ornate, but not 
 very lai-ge. The interiors reminded me of those of the 
 Greek Churches in Russia. I visited a large number of 
 other temples, of which the city seems full. At the 
 hotel they had put down Gosha, the Mikadoes Palace, on 
 my list to be visited, but, on arriving there, a difficulty 
 was made at admitting me, and my jinrikisha men took 
 me to the government office toprocure an order. Here 
 a curious scene presented itself, which a good deal 
 puzzled me, but which I afterwards found was the dis- 
 tribution of prizes for a recent exhibition. Long row3 
 of girls gorgeously dressed, with painted faces, were 
 being marched in procession through the court and 
 about the building, while Japanese gentlemen in 
 European evening dress were directing the proceedings. 
 At length I found the official who had charge of Gosha, 
 who told me I could not see it that day, as it was a 
 holiday, but I might next morning before my return 
 to Hiogo. He was very civil, and sent one of his clerks, 
 who spoke English, to show me everything. This shows 
 the rapid change in Japan, as only four years previously
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 51 
 
 Baron Von Hubner, accompanied by Mr. Enslio^ tho 
 British Vice-ConsLil at Osaka^ bad the greatest difficulty 
 in obtaining the entrance which is now given as a mat- 
 ter of course to every traveller. The palace is more 
 curious than beautiful. It consists of interminable 
 small rooms separated by sliding panels with paintings 
 on the sci-eens. The only I'oom of any size is the hall 
 in which the Mikados were crowned. The gardens 
 would be pretty if they were kept in order, but they 
 are much neglected, as since the removal of the emperor 
 to Yeddo, he has never paid a visit here. Those who 
 now rule in his name seem so afraid of losing their in- 
 fluence that they discourage his travelling, and he remains 
 as constantly at Tokio as his ancestors did at Kioto. 
 Near Gosha is the palace of the es-Mikados, who have 
 been numerous in history, as it was not uncommon for 
 princes to abdicate in favour of a child and continue to 
 govern. The young Japanese who accompanied me 
 said the population of Kioto was 000,000. Many Euro- 
 peans are resident here in the service of the Government. 
 After leaving Gosha I proceeded to Fujimi, tho 
 port of Kioto, where I embarked on board a curious 
 little steamer to descend the Yodi-gawa to Osaka. 
 The voyage was amusing, as the cabin was very 
 small, and I sat in the stern, contemplating the 
 native travellers squatting on the floor. They were 
 very kind, and invited me to share their food. The 
 earlier part of the sail down this fine wide river is beau- 
 tiful from the mountain views in the distance, though 
 afterwards it becomes dull. The voyage is not without 
 
 E 2
 
 52 A YISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 risk, as tlie steamers are of the worst description, and 
 the bed of the river is very shifting, so that we twice ran 
 aground. The native boats, with their large tattered 
 sails, are picturesque. In four hours and a half we reached 
 Osaka, whence the railway took me to the Hiogo Hotel, 
 Kobe, glad to be again among those with whom I could 
 converse, for though they were very civil and obliging 
 at the "Nakamaraya Higashi Nikonchaya, adjoining 
 the Gien Temple " (I quote the description given on 
 the card, whatever the Japanese words may mean), yet 
 they spoke too little English to make my stay there 
 pleasant. At the hotel I met Dr. Hill and Mr. Mar- 
 shall, the assistant architect for Government buildings 
 in Japan and China. Dr. Hill is a naval surgeon placed 
 by our Government here to enable the Japanese to carry 
 out the Contagious Diseases Acts, of which we used to 
 hear so much in the last Parliament. I used to vote 
 against them on the good old Tory principle that " what 
 is morally wrong cannot be politically right,^' and I 
 could not persuade myself that by those Acts a national 
 sanction is not given to vice. At the same time many 
 of those whose opinions I esteem above my own, main- 
 tain that no such sanction is given, and those who 
 have come practically in contact with the working of 
 the Acts testify to the beneficial results arising from 
 them. Such was the opinion I heard expressed in 
 Japan, China, and India.' In Japan, prostitution pre- 
 
 ' It is only fair to state that in India complaint is made by 
 the natives that the Acts have been repeatedly enforced against 
 innocent women ; and I fear it is only too probable that not a
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 53 
 
 vails to a fearful extent, and obtrudes itself in a way 
 I never witnessed elsewhere, unless, alas ! I must ex- 
 cept the Haymarket. The chief virtue of the people 
 often leads to this vice. Implicit obedience to parents 
 is the characteristic of the Japanese. Hence, when 
 a girl is ordered by her parents to enter a house of 
 ill-fame, she is bound by her religion, to obey, and 
 many men subsist on the wages of their daughters' 
 dishonour. It is stated on the other hand that when 
 these women marry, which they generally ultimately 
 do, they lead virtuous lives, and the fact that the popu- 
 lation appears to increase largely seems to show that 
 the conduct of the people is not so bad as one might 
 think. When women marry, they have a curious habit 
 of blackening their teeth. 
 
 On the 17th and 18th, I made excursions to Osaka 
 and Arumah. Osaka being united to Kobe, like Teddo 
 to Yokohama, by railway, the easiest plan is to take up 
 one's quarters at an hotel by the sea, and run over for 
 the day. It is an enormous city, finely situated on a 
 large river, which divides into numerous branches. The 
 number of bridges is consequently very large. The 
 streets present the same aspects of Japanese life as 
 those of Kioto and Tokio, but it is not distinguished 
 by the large buildings and curious temples of the two 
 capitals. The excursion to Arumah requires a jinri- 
 kisha and two coolies. The day was fine, thougli colder 
 than it had been, the autumn tints lovely, and the road, 
 
 few virtuous members of the weaker sex have been confounded 
 with a vicious class.
 
 M- A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 wliicli winds over hills and through wooded valleys, 
 good for horses and jinrikishas, though not fit for 
 carriages. The distance is sixteen miles. Arumah 
 which is very beautifully situated in a valley, is cele«- 
 brated for sulphur baths, and for the manufacture of 
 curious baskets and boxes. I invested in some of 
 these, but being rather fragile, it was one of the diffi- 
 culties of my journey to get them home, a difiiculty 
 which I surmounted, thanks to the kindness of Captain 
 Anderson, of the " Golconda," and of Mr. Parsons, a 
 fellow- passenger in the " Peshawur.'" I returned by 
 the same beautiful road, accomplishing the journey in 
 three hours instead of four, owing to going down hill. 
 
 On the morning of the 1 9th the steamer " Genke 
 Maru," late " Costa E-ica,^^ Captain Connor, arrived, 
 bringing several passengers who had been on board 
 the "Alaska.^^ I established myself on board her, 
 but took tifiin and dinner with Mr. and Mrs. Annesley, 
 who were very hospitable. Mr. Annesley is H.M.^s 
 consul at Hiogo and previously held the same posi- 
 tion at Nagasaki. Early next morning the "Costa 
 Rica^^ started, and began to pass the lovely inland sea, 
 an arm of the sea dividing the principal island of 
 Niphen from the southern one of Kiushiu. It is 
 a constant succession of islands, promontories, and 
 gulfs. Here it widens into a broad and extensive 
 lake ; there it narrows into a contracted channel 
 surrounded by noble hills. The scenes it presents 
 are varied and beautiful, at times remindina: me 
 of the Straits of Bonifacio or the Bosphorus, at
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 65 
 
 others of the Italian lakes. For its long succession of 
 varied marine scenery, I have never seen anything like 
 it. Night came on in the midst of this scene, but 
 Captain Connor told us for our comfort that the sail 
 during* the night was less interesting. On the morning 
 of the 21st we found ourselves in the Straits of 
 Simonosaki, one of the finest parts of the inland sea, 
 where some years ago an attack was made by our fleet. 
 I was unable to land, as this is not a treaty port, and I 
 had returned my Kioto passport (which could not, more- 
 over, have availed me here) to Sir H. Parkes through 
 Mr. Annesley. These passport regulations seem foolish 
 and vexatious, and can hardly last should travelling 
 increase. Travellers coming to Japan from Shanghai 
 are unable to visit Kioto, unless they have written bo- 
 fore to Yeddo to ask the British minister to forward a 
 passport to Kobe. At Simonosaki is the southern ter- 
 mination of the Tokaido, or great Japanese road, which 
 I have had occasion more than once to mention. It 
 runs from here to the northern end of the island, pass- 
 ing there Kioto and Yeddo. It is a work which reflects 
 much honour on the administrations of former days. 
 Similar roads traverse the smaller islands of Yesso and 
 Kiushiu. After contemplating the lovely harbour and 
 pretty town for some hours from the deck of our ship, 
 we left about one, and after about five miles quitted 
 the inland sea. The panorama of mountains, woods, 
 and rocky islands was exceedingly fine, reminding mo 
 of the coast of Corsica. 
 
 The southern portion of Japan is the home of the
 
 56 A VISIT TO JAPAXj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 great clans of Satsuma, Choshiu, Toza^ and Hizen. The 
 condition of this country till the recent revolution 
 must have had many points of resemblance with that of 
 the Highlands in the last century, with which we are 
 familiar from the writings of Scott. The clans were 
 governed by their chiefs, like the Camerons and Gra- 
 hams of former days, though the jealousy of the Tycoons 
 compelled these chiefs to spend much of then' time in 
 Yeddo. Now, by a remarkable change, these Daimios 
 have resigned their power and disbanded their retainers, 
 receiving a fixed income in exchange. Some think 
 this was an ingenious manoeuvre on the part of the great 
 Daimios to depress their less powerful brethren, and 
 that the influence of the principal chiefs is as great as 
 ever. The Daimios are said to be satisfied, and some of 
 them may prefer a certain income and greater hberty 
 to their former precarious revenue and splendid slavery 
 to the Tycoons. Still one can hardly think that the 
 more able and ambitious spirits among them can be 
 satisfied to abandon power to the coterie who, for the 
 most part originally dependents of the great houses, 
 now govern in the name of the Emperor. But what 
 may ultimately prove a great difiiculty is the discontent 
 of the samurai, the former military retainers of the 
 Daimios. A large body of disbanded soldiers is a 
 curse to any country, and if, as I was told, these men 
 have been very inadequately compensated, and have 
 therefore just ground for dissatisfaction, they may 
 hereafter prove a great hindrance to the tranquillity of 
 the Japanese empire.
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 57 
 
 We continued our voyage along the coast of the 
 southern island, reaching Nagasaki during the night. 
 The coasts of Japan are well lighted, as the Japanese 
 appointed an English engineer, Mr. Brandon, C.E., to 
 plan and superintend their lighthouses. He was at this 
 time about to return home, and was making a final in- 
 spection in company with Sir H. Parkes. On board the 
 steamer was a very intelligent scientific traveller, in the 
 service of the Russian Government, a great grandson of 
 the celebrated Marshal Barclay de Tolly, who had been 
 travelling seventeen years and had seen much of Cen- 
 tral Asia. He told me that the journey overland from 
 Pekin to St. Petersburg is now difl&cult, but that rail- 
 ways are being constructed through Siberia which 
 will greatly expedite it. There was also on board a 
 young lieutenant in the Japanese navy, a Mr. Kon- 
 rooka, who had studied at Portsmouth, and seemed 
 unceasing in his endeavours to acquire professional and 
 other useful knowledge. He was very busy trans- 
 lating into Japanese the English Articles of War, and 
 applied to me to know the meaning of '' property, 
 matter, or thing," in the Act of Parliament, which I 
 told him was legal surplusage. 
 
 The " Costa Rica " remained at Nagasaki over the 
 22nd, and I was most kindly entertained by the Consul 
 and Mrs. Flowers. Nagasaki is a land-locked harbour, 
 the entrance being protected by a long mountainous 
 island. Near this is the rock of Papenburg, whence, 
 in 1638, 4000 Christians were precipitated into the 
 sea. These martyrs were the last remains of the
 
 58 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Church founded in Japan by St. Francis Xavier, and 
 their destruction expelled Christianity from Japan. 
 The town rises very prettily from the shore amid a 
 panorama of exquisite hills, woods, and valleys. From 
 one of these hills behind the town, commanding a 
 splendid view of the magnificent harbour and neigh- 
 bouring creeks, the Americans observed the transit of 
 Venus. Decima, the old Dutch factory, is a little 
 island, about 300 yards long by 100 yards wide, sur- 
 rounded on two sides by the harbour, and on the other 
 two by a stinking ditch. Here, up to 1 856, the Dutch 
 merchants lived imprisoned, being only allowed once a 
 year to take a walk on the mainland under the care of 
 a guard. It must have been a dreadful life, but by 
 such sacrifices they procured for Holland a monopoly 
 of the trade of Japan. The native town of Nagasaki is 
 celebrated for porcelain and tortoise-shell. , Mr. Flowers 
 speaks of the Japanese as a very industrious and fairly 
 honest people. Though they grow so much rice, it is 
 too dear for the lowest class, who chiefly live on barley. 
 The government is a complete system of centralization, 
 and all local affairs are managed from Yeddo, where 
 they are introducing the Code Napoleon. The old 
 samurai, or two-sworded men, have been disarmed, 
 and are now seldom seen. We went to a croquet party 
 at a beautiful place overlooking the harbour, belonging 
 to Mr. Glover, a merchant here, where we met the Hon. 
 Commander Dawson, of H.M. gun- boat '' Dwarf,^^ who 
 afterwards dined at the ConsuFs. His brother, who 
 accompanied him, told me he was twenty-seven days
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 59 
 
 crossing the Pacific in perfectly calm weather. After 
 a pleasant day, I returned to the " Costa Rica/^ which 
 sailed at midnight. A good lighthouse guided us out 
 of the harbour, though the bright torches burnt by 
 some fishing-boats looked to me very confusing. In 
 the morning we were off Goito, the last island, and 
 about 10 a.m. we passed the "Asses' Ears" and 
 " Palace Hocks/' the last rocks of Japan, thus losing 
 sight of these interesting islands. 
 
 It has been remarked that Japan is the only nation 
 which has " ever taken ten centuries at a bound.'' A 
 people just rising from what one of their own ministers 
 called " a sleep of a thousand years " is one of the most 
 remarkable spectacles the world has ever presented. 
 The question suggests itself, whether the recent changes 
 are signs of permanent and satisfactory progress, or 
 merely the prelude of confusion and anarchy. Twenty 
 years ago Japan was in much the same condition as it 
 had remained in for centuries. The Mikado lived in 
 splendid seclusion, but his name was a talisman to rouse 
 the afiectionate loyalty of the people. The Shogun, 
 ruling in the name of the Mikado, wielding the military 
 power of the State, administered the resources of the 
 empire. The Daimios, each in their own spheres, 
 exercised great influence, and shared their revenues, 
 chiefly paid in rice, among large bodies of military 
 retainers. The ofl&cial religion was Shintoism, which 
 represents the Mikado as the descendant of the gods ; 
 but a large part of the population were attached to the 
 worship of Buddha. The mass of the people appear to
 
 60 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 have been orderly, industrious, and contented. The 
 land was well cultivated and productive, while in some 
 of the arts of life they excelled, and their silks, em- 
 broidery, porcelain, bronzes, and artistic work in 
 metals, competed with uhe productions of the Western 
 world. Such was the state of the country when first 
 visited by Europeans. Has its material prosperity 
 been improved by contact with Western civilization ? 
 The auri sacra fames impelled commerce to Japan. In 
 1854 two ports were thrown open to the ships and 
 merchants of the United States, England, and Russia ; 
 and in 1858 Lord Elgin and Baron Gros, flushed with 
 a recent victory over the Chinese, concluded treaties 
 which opened Japan to the commerce of Great Britain 
 and France. At this period a great hatred of foreigners 
 prevailed throughout the islands. The Shogun found 
 himself compelled by the irresistible energy and power 
 of civilization to make concessions, but these conces- 
 sions were blamed by the people and used to his dis- 
 advantage. The position of foreigners residing in 
 Japan was anything but agreeable : murders were 
 frequent, and they literally lived with their lives in 
 their hands. Still, foreign influence gradually ex- 
 tended, and the Shogun found himself threatened by 
 the legations on the one hand and by his domestic 
 enemies on the other. For some years of anarchy and 
 disorder the contest continued, till in 1868 the chiefs 
 of the four great southern clans obtained possession of 
 the person of the Mikado — a boy of twelve, who had 
 only recently ascended the throne — procured from him
 
 EXCURSIONS ra JAPAN. 61 
 
 an edict abolisliing- the Sliogunate, and defeated an 
 able prince who had lately acceded to that office, who 
 has since been permitted to reside as a private indi- 
 vidual on his estate. Their next step was to remove 
 the Emperor, as they now designate him, to Yeddo, 
 and to carry on the administration in his name. Tlie 
 fall of the Shoguns, though probably hastened by the 
 entrance of foreigners, might have happened under 
 any circumstances; but a yet more extraordinary 
 change remained to be effected. The Daimios have 
 been humbled, and in many cases deposed, and are 
 now pensioners on the lands they formerly owned, 
 while their military retainers have been disbanded. 
 This was rendered easier by the conduct of the Shoguns, 
 who had forced the Daimios to reside most of the year 
 in Yeddo. Like the French nobles whom Louis 
 XIV. induced to frequent Versailles, they thus 
 lost the affection of their dependents. The new 
 Government has been principally composed of the 
 retainers of the great clans, assisted by a few of the 
 Court nobles of Kioto. They had risen to power by 
 availing themselves of the popular hatred of foreigners -, 
 but they at once changed their course of action, and 
 proceeded to imitate Western civilization. Europeans 
 of all nations were engaged for the service of the 
 Government, and young Japanese were sent forth on 
 their travels and furnished with means to complete 
 their education in Europe and America. They cer- 
 tainly must be remarkable men, as the changes they 
 have effected are among the most wonderfully rapid
 
 62 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 whicli history records. A few years ago, if an English- 
 man rode outside of Yokohama, it was at tlie risk of being 
 assassinated ; now you may travel from one end of the 
 country to the other without the smallest apprehen- 
 sion. Telegraphs extend all through the islands, and 
 railways have been commenced. Numbers of small 
 steamers frequent the inland sea and the rivers, and 
 a great Japanese company runs from Yokohama to 
 Shanghai. A government which in seven years has 
 effected such a revelation deserves honour. We must 
 not, however, be blind to the vast difficulties which 
 await these remarkable men. The great mass of the 
 Japanese people, like other Orientals, are probably 
 ready to submit to any government which will enable 
 them to pursue their avocations in security. If they 
 have any political principle at all, it is veneration for 
 the Divine person of the Mikado, and whoever makes 
 use of that sacred name will probably secure their 
 support. Whether they are prepared to make any 
 sacrifices in his cause time only can show. But, with 
 deposed Daimios and disbanded and disarmed samurai, 
 there must be many floating elements of discontent. 
 The Ministry has been raised to power by the great 
 clans. Should these clans become unwilling or unable 
 to support them, their authority will rest on a very 
 precarious basis. Some soldier of fortune, who had the 
 genius to attract to himself the disbanded two-sworded 
 men, might plunge the country into a civil war. The 
 Buddhist temples have been despoiled, and the Bonzes, 
 or monks, expelled, but their dissatisfaction cannot but
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 63 
 
 have a great inflaence on tlie people. The efforts of 
 the Government to promote education deserve admi- 
 ration; but in this, as in other of their improvements, 
 they throw a great strain on their finances. It is 
 impossible to open 53,000 schools, to construct a navy, 
 to make railways, to erect light-houses, and to enter on 
 other improvements without enoi'mous expense, and 
 the question arises, whether their revenue will be 
 sufficient. As to their financial position, accounts 
 differ, but the best-informed persons with whom I con- 
 versed represented the condition as bad. The land-tax 
 supplies four-fifths of the revenue, so that a bad rice 
 crop must be very serious to the exchequer. Should 
 public credit break down, it may, as in other countries, 
 prove the ruin of the administration. 
 
 It struck me as a grave mistake on the part of the 
 Japanese to lavish large sums on their navy. They 
 have nothing to fear from their immediate neighbours 
 at sea, while it is impossible that they can resist the 
 skill, courage, and experience of European seamen. 
 This attempt to construct a navy seems a foolish 
 imitation of the western powers, entailing great expense 
 on the nation, and certain to prove a disastrous failure 
 if called into action. As regards theai^my, the govern- 
 ment have much greater justification for maintaining 
 it on a large scale. The samurai, who have been 
 disbanded by the Daimios, find themselves worse 
 provided for and worse fed, owing to the change, 
 and are besides unfitted by trainiug and habits for- 
 the peaceful occupations of life. Hence they are
 
 61 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 probably less dangerous to the state in the regular 
 army than left to roam through the country, and 
 promote discontent. The Japanese think they must 
 be prepared to resist any attack from the vast empire 
 of China, and are jealous of the neighbouring peninsula 
 of Corea. Then, too, in the case of a war with any of the 
 great powers, though their troops would be no match 
 for a European army, yet by taking advantage of their 
 knowledge of the mountain ranges of their islands, 
 they might occasion much trouble to a hostile com- 
 mander. Still, though an army may be necessary to the 
 Yeddo government, yet should it become dissatisfied, 
 it may prove the cause of their overthrow. Such are 
 some of the difficulties which await the present rulers 
 of Japan. Except in their persecutions of the Native 
 Christians their conduct has deserved admiration ; and 
 it is to be hoped that, avoiding the shoals and the 
 quicksands with which their course is beset, they may 
 place the throne of the Mikado on a firm basis. Should 
 they fail in their eSbrts, should those beautiful islands 
 become the scene of anarchy and civil war, the only 
 solution would probably be an intervention on the 
 part of one or more of the great powers. 
 
 The most important question in Japan, as in every 
 other country, must be the religious. We have forced 
 our way into the country, but if we only go there to 
 trade, and do not impart to the people the blessings of 
 Christianity, we shall have been a curse to them instead 
 of a blessing. Japan was visited by the great missionary 
 whose heroic virtues no difierence of creed should make
 
 EXCUKSIONS IN JAPAN. 65 
 
 US ignore, St. Francis Xavier, in 15i9, and the cliurcb. 
 whicli he founded continued in Japan till the massacre 
 of Papenburg, in 1638. From that time the Jesuits 
 were expelled, and except by the Dutch at Decima 
 Christianity was unacknowledged. It is a remarkable 
 fact that when French missionaries visited the countiy 
 in 1858 they found communities of natives who, in 
 spite of persecution and the absence of instruction, had 
 maintained their Christian faith. In 1870 the Japanese 
 government subjected these poor people to revolting 
 and cruel persecution.' The representatives of the 
 Treaty Powers remonstrated, but their representations 
 were treated with cold civility, and passed unheeded. 
 The Minister pleaded that "the Native Christians 
 refused to join in the worship of the country. This 
 is a direct act of rebellion against the Mikado, the 
 Son of the Gods, and the chief of that religion which 
 the Christians despise." On this ground all relief was 
 refused. The administration appear to be themselves 
 destitute of any religious belief, but they uphold 
 Shintoism as a useful political engine. Their endeavours 
 to suppress Buddhism, which is the faith of a large 
 proportion of the people, cannot but produce dis- 
 content, and may, perhaps, lead to their downfall. 
 The persecutions which they have authorized of the 
 unfortunate Christians must deprive them of the 
 sympathy which would otherwise be felt for their 
 
 * In the Soto Islands 400 Christians were arrested and many 
 of them tortured, while the whole Christian population of Ura- 
 kami, to the number of 3170 persons, was dej^orted. 
 
 F
 
 G6 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 public services. I mucli regretted tbat I did not come 
 in contact with any missionaries. Mr. Wylie^ of 
 Shanghai, who had lately visited Japan, told me that 
 there are fifty Protestant missionaries labouring in the 
 country, and that they are much encouraged in regard 
 to their work. The Bishop of Victoria took a less 
 hopeful view; but his lordship had not at the time I 
 saw him visited the islands. Japan seems to me to 
 have a peculiar and pressing claim on the Christian 
 Church. In one sense missions are equally called for 
 in every country. The Apostles were commanded " to 
 go into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every 
 creature ;" and an immortal soul is equally valuable in 
 the sight of our merciful God, whether it is the soul of 
 a prince or a peasant, of a highly-educated and civilized 
 man or of a savage. Still, particular mission-fielda 
 Imve special claims. India and our other possessions 
 deserve the peculiar care of England, as we cannof 
 doubt they have been confided to us by providence foi 
 the promotion of Christianity. In the case of Japan . 
 the claim is that whereas in consequence of the entrance 
 of foreigners, the country is in a transition state, then 
 is a loud call to take advantage of the present con- 
 juncture to send forth the messengers of the glad tidings 
 of the Gospel of Peace. In other countries, humanly 
 speaking, our children will be just as favourably or 
 more favourably situated than we are for missionary 
 labour. The neighbouring peninsula of Corea was at 
 the time of my visit still closed to foreigners, even 
 ships wrecked on the coast finding no succour, while
 
 EXCURSIONS IN JAPAN. 67 
 
 some heroic Roman Catholic missionaries who entered 
 the kingdom sacrificed their lives to the attempt. The 
 Chinese still continue their resistance to western civili- 
 zation ; railways and telegraphs are unknown ; travelling 
 is discouraged; the interior of the empire is to a great 
 extent unexplored; and the vast region apparently 
 remains in the same condition which has prevailed for 
 centuries past. But in Japan everything is in a state 
 of change. The Japanese seem very anxious to imi- 
 tate everything which comes from the west ; and this 
 disposition at least secures a consideration of the argu- 
 ments in support of our holy religion. Surely this 
 state of things is a loud call to the Church to be up 
 and doing. Missionaries may now make their way in 
 the country ; and even should their labours be confined 
 to the treaty ports, there is ample room for their utmost 
 exertions. Intense interest attaches to the various 
 problems involved in the present condition of Japan ; 
 but in spite of the rapid progress which has been made 
 in material improvement and approximation to western 
 ideas, the future looks to me a dark one. The one 
 hope for the country is that God in His mercy should 
 bless the preaching of the Gospel. Should this be the 
 case all will be well. Otherwise I cannot but apprehend 
 civil war, anarchy, and confusion. 
 
 F 2
 
 68 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 
 
 On tlie 24th we reached the Yellow Sea, so called from 
 the colour it acquires from the great Chinese rivers 
 which flow into it. After a cold^ but otherwise 
 pleasant voyage, we passed in the evening the North 
 Saddle Lighthouse, marking the mouth of the Yaugtsee 
 Kiang. Next morning we reached the mouths of the 
 Shanghai River, and were detained for some time wait- 
 ing for the tide over the Woo Sung bar. This bar is a 
 great impediment to the trade of Shanghai, but the 
 Chinese will not allow it to be dredged, as they think 
 it is a protection from invasion. The depth of water is 
 said to be diminishing year by year, so that ere long 
 the question will become a very serious one. At Woo 
 Sung a number of Chinese war-junks were anchored. 
 Of what use these unwieldly, though picturesque, ves- 
 sels can be I could not ascertain. At length the tide 
 rose, and we proceeded up the river, through a flat and 
 desolate country, till we reached the magnificent city of 
 Shanghai. Shanghai is an instance of what European 
 energy can efiiect under the most unpromising circum-
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 69 
 
 stances. In the midst of a country as flat, as dull, 
 and as uninteresting as can well be conceived, rises a 
 city of palaces. Here, in spite of every disadvantage, 
 has arisen the great emporium of trade in China. The 
 river is thronged with the steamers of England, 
 America, France, and other countries, while ashore 
 you enjoy the comforts and the luxuries of civilization. 
 The splendid mansions of the merchant princes and the 
 shipping might make one fancy oneself in England if 
 the Chinese costumes around did not undeceive one. I 
 took up my quarters at the Central Hotel, which 
 seemed comfortable, but, as owing to the hospitality of 
 Mr. Boyce and Mr. Iveson, I never took a meal there, 
 Isaw but littl e of it. I called at the Consulate — a fine 
 collection of buildings in the most conspicuous part of 
 the English town — where I found that Mr. (about this 
 time created Sir Thomas) Wade had just left on his 
 return to Pekin. I much regretted not having the 
 opportunity of making the acquaintance of this eminent 
 public m.an, whose services to his country in the East it 
 would be difficult to overrate. Before starting from home 
 I had been warned by my friend and neighbour. Admi- 
 ral Sir Charles Shadwell, who had just returned from the 
 command of the China fleet, that I should be too late 
 for Pekin, and this opinion was confirmed by Sir Harry 
 Parkes. It was near the end of November, and Tientsin 
 was expected shortly to be closed by ice. I might have 
 got up to Pekin, but the difficulty would be how to get 
 back, as, when the steamers cease to run, there is no 
 means of returning except by a long, tedious, and dif-
 
 70 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 ficult land journey. In Ceylon I met Mr. Eustace 
 Smith, M.P., who had reached China a fortnight 
 before me, and who told me he was warned by Sir 
 Thomas Wade not to attempt the expedition, I had 
 thought of going up the Yangtsee in one of the mag- 
 nificent steamers which run to Hankow, and had 
 applied for a passport for Nankin, when I consulted 
 Mr. Boyce, an architect who has charge of the buildings 
 of the British Government in China and Japan. He 
 told me that the voyage to Hankow was too long for 
 the time at my disposal, and recommended me to take 
 the coasting steamers, which visit the ports of Foochow, 
 Amoy, and Swatow. Mr. Iveson, a leading merchant 
 here, was of the same opinion. 
 
 My friends were most kind in showing me Shang- 
 hai. On ascending the river the American concession 
 first comes into view. It consists of a number of 
 wharves for steamers along the water-side, with a 
 street chiefly inhabited by Chinese, as the principal 
 American merchants reside in the Bund in the 
 English quarter. A small stream, called the Suchow 
 Creek, separates the American from the English con- 
 cession. On crossing the bridge the British Consulate 
 is first reached, whence the Bund runs along the shore, 
 where the principal business is conducted. Streets 
 run off at right angles, where the Chinese traders 
 reside. At the farther end of the Bund the French con- 
 cession is reached. The government of the two towns 
 shows the difierent characteristics of the nations to 
 which they belong. Being concessions from the Chinese
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 71 
 
 Government, it is only natural that the consuls should 
 exercise large powers, as they have to discharge judicial 
 functions, and to see that the acts of the municipality 
 do not contravene the stipulations of the Treaty of 
 Tientsin. To such duties the English consul is limited, 
 while the municipal government is confided to a council 
 of seven members, annually elected by the residents, 
 which discharges the functions of one of our corpora- 
 tions at home. The French consul, on the other hand, 
 governs the concession. It is true there is a council, 
 but this council is elected by the nominees of the consul, 
 and, beyond giving advice, have little or no power. The 
 buildings of the French quarter are very large, but it is 
 a town nursed by the Government, not the result of 
 spontaneous energy. Beyond the French concession 
 is the Chinese city, surrounded by old, half-ruined 
 walls, which, though useless against artillery, must be 
 injurious to the health of the place. The streets are 
 narrow and exceedingly dirty, a great contrast to 
 those of Japanese towns, which are wide and clean. 
 Mr. Boyce took me into several of the shops, in one of 
 which they were making idols. The people are very 
 polite in allowing you to walk through their shops 
 without urging you to buy. On the 26th I called on 
 Mr. Wylie, the agent of the British and Foreign Bible 
 Society for these countries, who gave me a very in- 
 teresting account of his work. He took me to see two 
 opium-shops. At the first the proprietor told us that 
 he had about 1000 visitors per diem, but was not doing 
 as well as usual. They come in, some to take opium,
 
 72 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA,, AND INDIA. 
 
 wliicli obliges tliem to lie down for the sake of in- 
 lialing it from their pipes, others only to smoke tobacco. 
 Tobacco is supplied as an inducement to frequent the 
 shop, in the hope that those, women as well as men, who 
 begin to come there will ultimately become customers 
 for opium. The appearance of these shops reminded 
 me of that of a workman's cafe in Paris. There may 
 not be so much to meet the eye as there is in an 
 English gin-shop, as the effects of opium, though more 
 speedily fatal to its victims, are less obvious to the 
 passing observer. Hence I do not wonder that those 
 who form their opinions from a cursory inspection of 
 such shops as I visited should believe that their evils 
 have been exaggerated. Against such T would place 
 the testimony of those who live and labour among the 
 Chinese. Mr. Wylie thinks opium-smoking is on the 
 increase, and is demoralizing the population. Another 
 friend of mine had been defending the trade, but on my 
 asking if a house we were passing was an opium-shop, 
 he casually replied, " No ; an opium-house is like the 
 lowest public-houses in England." I visited the 
 General Hospital and the Gutzlaff Hospital, both very 
 interesting institutions. Those in charge of them say 
 that they are constantly applied to for medicine to cure 
 people of the craving for opium, as, when the taste is 
 once formed, it is most difficult to dispense with it. In 
 fact, the craving for it is rarely, if ever, cured. Mr. 
 Iveson took me into the Chinese quarter, to the office 
 of a man who dealt in sycee silver. The mode of deal- 
 ing here seems rather inconvenient. Calculations are
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 73 
 
 for the most part made in taels instead of dollars. 
 A tael is a weight of silver^ and at the time of my visit 
 was worth about $1^, though it is liable to fluctua- 
 tions. The Europeans are in the habit of giving what 
 they call chits, or small cheques, on the compradors of 
 their houses. These chits are the substitutes of small 
 money in other countries, and the residents here are 
 saved the trouble of carrying money about with them. 
 This is rendered necessary by the weighty character of 
 Chinese money, which recalls to mind the iron of 
 Lycurgus. In China, and also in Japan, a coolie is 
 seen with an, immense string of cash slung over his 
 shoulder, as the only means of carrying it. The com- 
 prador is a Chinaman of superior position, who acts as 
 cashier, and is attached to every mercantile establish- 
 ment. He pays the chits presented to him, and is said 
 generally to charge a liberal commission for himself. 
 In fact, the poor coolie is entirely in his hands. Captain 
 Painter was telling me a story illustrative of this. His 
 ship, in coming up the river, had injured a Chinese 
 junk, and, after some negotiation, the skipper agreed 
 to take $50, which was thought to be less than the 
 damage he had really suffered. Jardines gave him a 
 cheque on their comprador, and Captain Painter accom- 
 panied him downstairs to the room of that worthy, who 
 pretended to be busy, and told the master of the junk 
 to wait until he was disengaged. The Captain divined 
 that his object was to get rid of him, and make his own 
 terms with the skipper, and, with kind feeling and 
 sympathy for a brother sailor, resolved to thwart him.
 
 ^4 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 This he did by telling him, '^If you don't pay this 
 cheque at once I shall go upstairs and complain/^ This 
 brought the money without deduction. 
 
 The silk merchants' houses are curious. We visited 
 one of them who was entertaining a large number of 
 his connexions from the country. When a Chinaman 
 comes to Shanghai to sell his silk he expects his broker 
 to entertain him, who gets nothing in return but the 
 commission on the sale. The evening was very cold, 
 but the Chinese sat in an open court, keeping themselves 
 warm by countless overcoats. Our friend said he had 
 been anxious about the 1500 bales of silk he had, as 
 they never insure, but he had now built a fire-proof 
 warehouse, which made his mind easy about it. He 
 was very hospitable, insisting on our taking tea. They 
 make it by putting the tea into a cup, and then pouring 
 boiling water upon it. The pigeon English spoken is 
 curious, I should have thought it would have been as 
 easy for the Chinese to learn a little good English as 
 the execrable imitation of it which passes current in 
 the treaty ports. Chinese is so difiicult a language 
 that merchants seldom attempt to learn it, and the 
 knowledge of it is limited to missionaries and diplo- 
 matists. The different dialects are another great hin- 
 drance. Though the characters are the same, the 
 inhabitants of neighbouring provinces cannot under- 
 stand each other, and a gentleman told me that he had 
 heard a Cantonese and a Swatow man unable to 
 communicate in their own language talking pigeon 
 Enarlish.
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. /5 
 
 After dining witli Mr. Boyce, I went on board the 
 " Thales/^ Captain Painter^ wliicli did not, however, 
 sail till next morning, the 27th. This was owing 
 to the state of the tide on the Woo Sung bar. My 
 host was going up the Yangtsee, but his steamer, 
 though much larger and grander than the '' Thales/' 
 was built for the river and not for the sea, and, drawing 
 less water, got off earlier. Steamers are the universal 
 mode of locomotion in China, and where they are 
 unable to run travelling becomes difficult. The fares 
 are high, that of the Peninsular and Oriental Com- 
 pany and the Messageries Maritimes being $80 from 
 Shanghai to Hongkong. This, of course, I paid ; but 
 in my case it seemed very reasonable, as it involved a 
 week's board in the steamers of Jardine, Matheson, 
 and Co. to Foochow, and of Douglas, Lapraik, and 
 Co. to Hongkong. In addition to their war-junks 
 the Chinese are constructing an immense fort at 
 Woo Sung to defend the entrance to the river. The 
 navigation of the mouths of the Yangtsee is ren- 
 dered difficult by immense banks of sand and mud, 
 while the shores are very low. After leaving it the 
 voyage lies through the Chusau archipelago, which 
 recalls the 
 
 " Isles which crown the jEgean deep." 
 
 In beauty I think the Chinese Islands are superior 
 to the Cyclades, but they have not the classical and 
 historical associations which lend such a charm to 
 Delos, and Melos, and Tenedos. The navigation of
 
 76 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CniNA, AND INDIA. 
 
 ttese islands is difficult, but Captain Painter was 
 thorouglily acquainted with it. The North Saddle 
 light is seen on the other bow from that on which it 
 is visible coming from Nagasaki. Farther on a light- 
 house is erected on the island of Gutzlaff, called, I pre- 
 sume, after the great Missionary of that name. On 
 the 28th we continued our voyage through the islands. 
 Immense numbers of fishing-boats were around us, and 
 the poles attached to their nets reminded me of the 
 seins used for pilchards in Cornwall. The inhabitants 
 of these islands subsist for the most part by fishing. 
 They grow a little rice, but exchange their fish for 
 what they require on the mainland. Formerly they 
 were much addicted to piracy, and aro still ready to 
 attack any ship in distress ; but they find it useless to 
 molest the large steamers which chiefly frequent these 
 seas. After being delayed in the night by a fog, we 
 reached, on the morning of the 29th, the mouth of the 
 Ming Eiver, where the scenery reminded me of the 
 Italian Lakes. After a lovely sail we reached the Pa- 
 goda anchorage, so called from a Chinese Pagoda which 
 stands on a promontory. Here we changed into a steam 
 launch which took us to Foochow, where I was most 
 hospitably received by Mr. Angus, of the great house 
 of Jardine, Matheson, and Co. The Chinese merchants 
 are distinguished by their hospitality. Except at Hong- 
 kong and Shanghai, and there only recently, there are 
 no hotels, and they entertain all travellers. After 
 tiffin I took a stroll for two or three hours through 
 the town, which is said to contain 500,000 inhabitants.
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 77 
 
 including a floating population of 20^000. These 
 people reside entirely in boats, bringing up tlieir 
 families on board. The husband is often engaged in 
 the coasting-trade, and when they are absent the sam- 
 pan, as the boat is called, is left in charge of the wife, 
 who makes the children assist her in working it. 
 Thus this strange population pass their lives, living 
 and dying on the water. The usual mode of locomo- 
 tion here is to be carried by coolies in chairs, but I 
 preferred walking, as it gave me a good idea of a 
 Chinese town. The different channels of the Miner 
 are crossed by several bridges, and the streets are 
 crowded by an enormous mass of human beings. To 
 one lately arrived from England the scene is most 
 striking and interesting. The town is dirty, but 
 hardly so dirty as the native city of Shanghai. I met 
 a large party of the gentlemen of Foochow at dinner, 
 with whom I passed a very pleasant evening. They 
 think the growth of opium is increasing in China, but 
 that the Chinese will never dispense with Indian opium. 
 Next morning I took a sampan across the river to 
 visit the monastery of Kushan. I was surprised to 
 see a portrait of St. Francis in it, but on inquiry found 
 the woman who owned it was a Roman Catholic. After 
 going three or four miles down the river, and landing 
 on the opposite side, we crossed some rice-fields and 
 reached a temple. Hence a stone path frequently ascend- 
 ing long rows of steps, recalling by its resting-places, 
 though it is not roofed over, the path from Bologna to 
 the Church of the Madonna di S. Luca, leads up the
 
 70 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 mountain. It commands fine views of the valley of the 
 Ming, with Foochow placed in the midst of the various 
 channels of the river, of the mountains around, and, as 
 you ascend higher, of the Pagoda anchorage and of the 
 sea. The Monastery of Kushan is very extensive, con- 
 sisting of a collection of gorgeous temples and build- 
 ings, with large figures of Buddha. Near it is a pond 
 very full of sacred fish and a curious water-wheel. 
 This Buddhist monastery recalls the great establish- 
 ments of the Latin and Greek Churches, Monte 
 Casino, Assisi, and that wonderful building which gives 
 in the nineteenth century such a vivid picture of the 
 abbeys of the middle ages, the great Monastery of St. 
 Sergius at Troitsa, near Moscow. The scenery is very 
 lovely, and I was told that by an excursion of two or 
 three days farther up the Ming it becomes yet more 
 beautiful. After lunching at the monastery and paying 
 the fees to the chief priest, I returned down the moun- 
 tain to the monastery at the foot, and reached Foochow 
 by my sampan. Here I visited a curious temple near 
 Messrs. Jardine^s house, which is used as a sort of 
 club by the Chinese. It was adorned with large 
 numbers of flowers. I was shown a man smoking 
 opium, who said he was fifty-eight, and had smoked it 
 for twenty years, and whenever he was ill he took it 
 and it cured him. He smoked four times a day. I 
 find, whatever the views of Europeans on its efiects, 
 they discourage it among their employes, and some of 
 them will not engage a man who uses it. 
 
 After taking leave of my kind hosts, I returned
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 79 
 
 with Captain Painter in the launch to the Pagoda 
 anchorag-e, where I went on board the "Kwan- 
 tung/^ Captain Pitman, The Pagoda anchorage, 
 being the port of Foochow, is the residence of a 
 colony of Europeans. The night was rough, and 
 those who came on board late at night found some 
 difficulty in embarking. Among these was Captain 
 Grant, who had been for several years Commander of 
 H.M. gun-boat '' Midge," in wliich capacity he was 
 much distinguished by his exertions against the Malay 
 pirates. He was going home on being promoted 
 to post-captain, and I had the pleasure of his com- 
 pany in my voyage to Galle. About 8 a.m., on the 
 morning of December 1st, we weighed anchor. The 
 Chinese are fortifying the mouth of the Ming, which 
 is naturally very strong, though I am told their fortifi- 
 cations are worthless. We had a lovely sail down to 
 the sea. These parts of China are very beautiful, as 
 the gulfs up which the sea runs are fine and the moun- 
 tains graceful. The hills are rather bare, and the 
 vegetation is almost tropical, as the latitude of Foochow 
 is 24°. 30. There seem no facilities for travelling in 
 the interior of China. Foreigners traverse tha great 
 rivers in steamers and natives in sampans. The roads 
 are said to be very bad, and travellers have to be car- 
 ried in chairs. The inns are very poor, and are not 
 in the habit of accommodating strangers. Hence, 
 though nothing is easier than to visit the ports of 
 China, to explore the interior would be an undertaking 
 of very great difficulty. What is easily seen of China
 
 80 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 is seen from tlie deck of a ship, and very few except 
 missionaries have attempted to penetrate inland. After 
 running out to sea we passed some islands called the 
 White Dogs. From here to Cape Turnabout the ship 
 rolled very much, as I was told is common in these 
 seas. It was amusing to see sailors unable to stand, 
 and to have to keep one's hand on one's glass at dinner, 
 lest a lurch of the ship should upset it. Turnabout is 
 said to be so named because ships beating up against 
 the monsoon often had to turn round and return to 
 Hongkong. After passing Turnabout we steered more 
 West, and the ship became steadier. Early next 
 morning we entered Ainoy. The lovely sunrise, the 
 gi'aceful islands, the magnificent boulders of granite, 
 and the surrounding mountains, made up a most 
 striking panorama, and I never remembered to have 
 beheld a more beautiful specimen of marine scenery. 
 
 The interior of Amoy, like that of other Chinese 
 towns, is dirty. A population of 250,000 is claimed for it, 
 but the returns of the rice consumed make 100,000 more 
 probable. I was most kindly entertained by Mr. Pye, 
 the leading merchant here, at his house on the beautiful 
 island of Kulangsu, opposite to Amoy, over which it 
 commands a view. He gave me a great deal of in- 
 teresting information on the state of China, and as he 
 speaks the language, and has travelled extensively, 
 his knowledge is of great value. This information 
 impressed me with the rotten condition of the Celestial 
 Empire, and the changes which we may expect in this 
 part of the world. He said the island of Formosa was
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 81 
 
 well worthy of a vislt^ as tlie scenery is fine. I called 
 on Mr. Dukes and Dr. Talmadge^ missionaries here, 
 who told me they have 2000 converts in Amoy, and an 
 interesting work going on in the neighbouring country. 
 They gave, on the whole, a satisfactory account of the 
 native Churches, and spoke well of the moral cha- 
 racter of the Chinese, of whom Dr. Talmadge has had 
 twenty-nine years' experience. At five o'clock we left 
 this charming place, which I conclude, however, must 
 be fearfully hot in summer. Captain Pitman com- 
 plained of his despatches coming so late on board, as 
 the navigation out to sea is difficult. The night was 
 rough, and rolling about in my berth prevented sleep. 
 I was amused in the morning to find that sailors were 
 inconvenienced in the same way as a landsman. About 
 half-past seven in the morning we reached Swatow, and 
 raced up the river, passing the "Yesso," another boat of 
 the same company. Here, for the first time in my life, 
 I entered the tropics, but the day was anything but 
 tropical, as it was very cold. The poor lascars looked 
 perished from it. I called on Dr. Gould and Mr. 
 Gibson, missionaries labouring here, and met Dr. Kerr, 
 another missionary of Canton. They spoke strongly 
 of the difficulty of people giving up opium, though 
 Dr. Kerr seemed to think the evil not as great as spirits. 
 They seemed to believe in the large population com- 
 monly attributed to China, and gave a satisfactory 
 account of the conduct of their native Christians. We 
 talked about gambling, the great vice of the Chinese, 
 and the infamous coolie trade from Macao, which has 
 
 G
 
 82 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 been recently stopped by tlie exertions of the English 
 Government. They took me over their hospital and 
 girls* school. I went on board the '' Columbian/^ 
 Captain Hai'vey, a P. and 0. steamer, now being 
 fitted out to take coolies to Singapore. A large 
 number of Chinese go to the Straits, At lunch, on 
 the "Kwantung," the conversation turned on the 
 coolie trade. One of the captains present said that, 
 twenty years before, he had been in the Chincha 
 islands, and had seen the bodies of coolies who had 
 been killed by the overseers thrown on board with the 
 guano. He complained, however, that coolies some- 
 times came on board emigrant ships with a view to 
 stirring up mutiny among their fellows. He said that 
 Kworok-a-Sing, whose case came before the Judicial 
 Committee of the Privy Council, was one of a class 
 who took money five or six times to emigrate. This 
 story sounds very improbable, as the man who knew 
 the dangers and sufferings of an emigrant coolie ship 
 would not willingly expose himself to them ; but, be this 
 as it may, Europeans who have been guilty of the 
 fearful atrocities perpetrated in this accursed trade 
 have no right to wonder if even the submissive Chinese 
 is at last driven to resistance and to violence. We 
 sailed, about four o'clock, through a difiicult pas- 
 sage among the islands. The scenery was fine, though 
 the evening was wet. 
 
 About eight o'clock on the morning of the 4th 
 we reached Hongkong after a charming sail. Vic- 
 toria, Hongkong, is one of the most beautiful cities
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 83 
 
 I have ever beheld. A magnificent land-locked har- 
 bour is sm-rounded by mountains, on the side of 
 one of which the town rises, while the tropical trees 
 lend a charm to the scene. At the time of my visit it 
 looked like a paradise, but I am told that for the six or 
 eight hot months it is one of the most disagreeable 
 spots on earth. It is well lighted and paved, though 
 the streets are very steep, and its appearance does much 
 credit to the municipal authorities. The chair cooHes 
 climb the steep streets with wonderful celerity. I was 
 most hospitably entertained by ]\Ir. Kennard Davis, a 
 son of the E-ev. James Davis, of the Evangelical Alliance, 
 and his companion, Mr. Leitch, at their house, which 
 commands a lovely view over the harbour. I also 
 received much kindness from the Governor, Sir Arthur 
 Kennedy, the Chief Justice, Sir John Smale, the Bishop 
 of Victoria, Admiral Rydei', Commodore Parish, and Dr. 
 Eitel, of the London Missionary Society. The bishop 
 was leaving, on the evening of my arrival, on a visitation 
 of the coast ports, but I made a very interesting call 
 upon him. He told me that, having been labouring 
 for many years at Pekin, he found he now had to forget 
 the Mandarin, and study the Cantonese dialect. The 
 next day was Sunday, when 3 twice attended the 
 cathedral, in the afternoon with Admiral Eyder, and 
 dined in the evening with Sir Arthur and Miss Ken- 
 nedy. The Governor strongly reprobated the coolie 
 traffic, saying it was the worst form of slavery. He 
 has put down the gambling-houses in Hongkong, 
 and told me that when he originally came out Lord 
 
 G 2
 
 84 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINx\._, AND INDIA. 
 
 Kimberly strongly urged liini to do so at any cost. I 
 recollect having been very mucli puzzled by a tele- 
 gram on this subject in a blue book. General Whit- 
 fieldj who succeeded as interim Governor during the 
 absence of Sir R. MacDonnell_, had suppressed gambling 
 in the colony, upon which Lord Kimberley telegraphed 
 to him not to interfere. When attention was called 
 to the question in the House of Commons, the then 
 Under Secretary for the Colonies, Mr. Knatchbull- 
 Hugessen, palliated the gambling-houses, and pleaded 
 that it would not be right to allow a Deputy-Governor 
 to interfere with the policy of his predecessor. How- 
 ever, it would seem that, on reflection, the Colonial 
 Office felt that they must not run counter to the 
 general feeling of civilized mankind on this subject. 
 
 On Monday morning I started in the steamer "Flying 
 Cloud ^^ for Canton, which, under the influence of an 
 opposition, accomplished the ninety miles in between 
 six and seven hours. I was surprised to see the cabin 
 filled with loaded muskets, and lascars with drawn 
 swords walking the deck ; but I was told that a steamer 
 had been recently attacked by pirates, and the captain 
 and many of the crew and passengers murdered. We 
 at first sailed between rocky islands and the coast of 
 the mainland, and tlien turned up the Canton river. 
 The banks are flat, though hills are visible in the dis- 
 tance. The navigation must be difficult, as the river 
 has several channels. At AVhampoa is a bar, which 
 large steamers cannot pass, while two pagodas near it 
 look curious from the trees which grow from the gal-
 
 VOYAGR DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. Qo 
 
 lei'ies. In the days vvlien all intercourse between China 
 and Europe was carried on through Canton, Whatnpoa 
 was a place of much importance. Proceeding a few 
 miles further. Canton came in view. The city, with its 
 walls, pagodas, some large forts, built for the pro- 
 tection of property, and a Roman Catholic cathedral, 
 towering in the midst, looked very striking. The 
 enormous number of junks and sampans, huddled to- 
 gether on the river, made the scene picturesque. The 
 English live together on an island called Shamien, 
 formed by the river on one side and a canal on the 
 other, which is laid out like a park, and which presents 
 a very pretty appearance. It has been conceded in 
 the same way as the English town at Shanghai, and 
 contains the houses of all the great merchants. Here 
 I was most kindly entertained by Mr. Smith, of the 
 firm of Thomas and Mercier. In the days when the 
 whole of the tea-trade centered at Canton, foreigners 
 were confined to a factory about the size of that of the 
 Dutch at Deciraa. Shamien contains an English church, 
 a club, and a concert-hall. The bridges which connect 
 the island with the city have gates, which are guarded. 
 Next morning Mr. Piercy, of the Wesleyan Missionaiy 
 Society, very kindly accompanied me about the town. 
 Entering a sampan, we were rowed down the river to 
 the other side of the city, through a succession of 
 junks and sampans piled in endless rows. The junks 
 have a bull's-eye painted near the prow, and the colour 
 around indicates the town to which the boat belongs. 
 Ningpo, for example, is black, Amoy green, and Swatow
 
 86 A VISIT TO JAFAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 red. After landing we took chairs, eacli carried by 
 three coolies, and proceeded through the narrow and 
 dirty streets. The palace of the Yiceroy is in Chinese 
 style, with poor rooms and in bad repair. It was un- 
 tenanted, as he had been recalled, and his successor 
 had not arrived. The City Temple is large, while the 
 corridor leading to the Temple of Horrors contains 
 chambers where men are represented suffering the 
 torments of hell. The Examination Hall is a large enclo- 
 sure, containing 8650 small cells, one of which is assigned 
 to each student when under examination. Similar 
 halls are to be found in Pekin and several others of 
 the large cities. The five-storied Pagoda and the 
 Temple of Mercy are situated on a hill which com- 
 mands an extensive and pleasing view over Canton 
 and the surrounding country. The river flows through 
 a wide and fertile plain, with graceful hills in the dis- 
 tance. Before the Temple is a tea-house, where we 
 lunched. In a field below some troops were being 
 drilled. The Chinese have the sense to maintain their 
 national costume, much better fitted for a warm climate, 
 and not, like the Turks, to ape Europeans by adopting 
 the Western uniform. We visited a very fine pagoda, 
 and took a walk on the walls, which are wide, and 
 make a good promenade, which is apparently very 
 little used by the natives. We called on Sir Brook 
 Robertson, H.M. Consul, one of the greatest of Chinese 
 scholars, and, from his long experience of the country, 
 most conversant with China and the Chinese. He 
 palliated the use of opium, but said he thought the
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 87 
 
 increased production in China threatened the Indian 
 revenue. People prefer Havanna cigars, but Manillas 
 are so much cheaper in the East that tbey are almost 
 exclusively used. In like manner China opium, though 
 not so well liked, will ere long, on account of its 
 cheapness, drive Indian out of the market. He believes 
 in the large population commonly assigned to China. 
 His opinion on this point is equal, if not superior, to 
 that of any other man; but, considering that the popu- 
 lation of some of the towns with which we are best 
 acquainted proves to be less than it was believed to be 
 some years ago, it would seem as though that of the 
 empire at large may have been overrated. He says the 
 coolie trade has been entirely suppressed, and thinks 
 Canton only fourth in size among the cities of China. 
 We visited some opium-shops, where some of those wf 
 saw looked victims to it, while others appeared not to 
 have suffered. One man we talked to admitted to 
 spending 5tL a day — half his earnings — in smoking. 
 These shops were not well fitted up, like those I saw at 
 Shanghai, but wretched, dirty, and mean. Mr. Piercy 
 introduced me and interpreted for me to the secre- 
 tary of a native society for the suppression of opium- 
 smoking, whose object is to diminish the vice by moral 
 suasion. After dining with Mr. and Mrs. Piercy, I met 
 at the house of Mr. Chalmers, of the London Missionary 
 Society, about twelve gentlemen interested in the 
 opium question. The statements made of the evils 
 were very affecting. Mr. Nye, an American merchant, 
 said he had come to Canton in 1833, and of the ten
 
 OO A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 great Hong niercliants wlio at that time were tlie 
 channel of communication between European and 
 Chinese traders, and who were possessed of great 
 wealth, the families of nine had been brought to ruin 
 by opium-smoking. When the head of the family died, 
 his sons took to opium, neglected their business, and at 
 last became bankrupt. A town was mentioned between 
 Amoy and Foochow which was being depopulated by the 
 prevalence of the vice. Young men are drawn into the 
 habit, and become ruined by it. It is becoming very 
 common among literary men, and the opium-pipe is 
 often offered in private houses among the Chinese. It 
 is not, as far as I could gather, tendered to Europeans ; 
 but Mr. Morton, my fellow-passenger in the " Alaska," 
 when I afterwards met him at Bombay, told me he had 
 been shown over several of their houses by wealthy 
 Chinese, and in most cases he was taken into the 
 opium-smoking room. The missionaries are strict in 
 enforcing the rule that no opium-smoker is admitted as 
 a member of their Churches, and expressed their opinion 
 that, unless active measures are taken to stop the evil, 
 China will be ruined by this vice. They said that in 
 proclaiming the Gospel three reproaches on Europeans 
 used to be thrown in their teeth — opium, the coolie 
 trade, and the gambling- houses licensed by the British 
 Government at Hongkong. The two last causes of 
 reproach have been stopped, but the first becomes 
 worse year by year. Opium is still produced by the 
 British Government in India, is still carried in British 
 ships to China, and is still sold by British subjects to
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 89 
 
 the unfortunate Chinese. Is it wouderfal that heathen 
 should fail to be impressed with the excellence of a 
 religion whose professors inflict on them such evils ? 
 The account which these excellent and devoted men 
 gave of their labours was interesting. They seem to 
 be able to go freely about among the Chinese, and are 
 able to preach in public places, even in the porticos of 
 temples. The fact that the Roman Catholics have been 
 allowed to build a large cathedral shows the way to be 
 open for missionary labour. The Church of Rome has 
 been very active in her missions in China, and it 
 becomes Protestants to be the same. Those who go 
 forth in the service of the Gospel demand all the 
 sympathy which we can give them. They have to live 
 far from their friends and their native land, in a climate 
 which, though pleasant in winter, must be most trying 
 in summer, and to submit to the dangers to which such 
 an exile exposes them. Their reward is hereafter, but 
 they deserve the support and the prayers of the Church 
 at home. 
 
 On the 8th I returned to Hongkong, my kind host, 
 Mr. Smith, coming down in the same boat. On these 
 steamers one sees a good deal of opium-smoking, the 
 Chinese bringing their pipes on board, lying down, 
 lighting them at the little lamps which are essential to 
 the process, inhaling the smoke, and then becoming 
 stupefied or going to sleep. It is a curious circum- 
 stance that no Chinaman, however rich, likes to travel 
 in the first cabin of a steamer. You constantly meet 
 Japanese gentlemen, but rarely or never Chinese. The
 
 90 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 wealthy Chinese, with his servant to attend upon him, 
 prefers remaining among his countrymen. I regretted 
 that time did not permit me to visit Macao, the Por- 
 tuguese colony which forty years ago was the sole 
 European settlement in these seas. It has latterly 
 obtained an infamous notoriety as the starting- port of 
 vessels engaged in the coolie traflBc. Now that this 
 traffic has been suppressed, I was told that the town is 
 in a very declining condition. The barracoons were the 
 great sight of the place, and they are now closed. We 
 accomplished our voyage in six hours, and I reached 
 Victoria in time to pay some calls. The first was on 
 the excellent Chief Justice, Sir John Smale, a man to 
 whom humanity is deeply indebted for his successful 
 exertions to suppress the infamous coolie trade. The 
 noble stand which he made on this question entailed at 
 the time a great sacrifice, as the officials of Hongkong 
 were hostile to him, and the society of the colony 
 generally opposed to him till his labours were crowned 
 with success. I did not find him at home, but he most 
 kindly came on board the "Golconda^^ to see me off 
 next day. I saw Dr. Eitel, of the London Missionary 
 Society, who took me to a Chinese wedding. The 
 bride, the daughter of the printer to the Mission, sat in 
 a thick veil receiving visitors, who made her presents, 
 and giving them tea. The bridegroom was a Chinese 
 preacher. I dined with Commodore Parish, on board 
 the " Victor Emanuel." Hongkong is the head- 
 quarters of the Chinese fleet, and, as the Admiral has 
 to cruise from the Straits to Japan, the Commodore is
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 91 
 
 often in command here. Daring the summer this must 
 be a very unpleasant station, as the heat is intense. In 
 consequence of our large commerce in these seas, wo 
 are compelled to keep a strong fleet, and from the 
 difficulties of communication a large discretion has to 
 be confided, not only to the Admiral, but to the various 
 commanders of the ships. The Admirals of some 
 other fleets may be of higher rank, but from the 
 delicate nature of our relations with the Celestial 
 Empire, from the long distance from home, and from 
 the imperfect state of telegraphic communication, the 
 Commander-in-Chief of the Chinese squadron has 
 duties to discharge of a more responsible nature than 
 probably any oth^r officer afloat. 
 
 The 9th was my last day in China. Early in the 
 morning I started with Mr. Davis to walk up to the 
 Peak. Passing the public gardens, which are remark- 
 able for their tropical plants and beautifully laid out, 
 we ascended a wild gorge, and, passing several pretty 
 villas, reached the Peak — a hill which rises to the 
 height of 1800 feet, and commands a view over the 
 island, the town, the harbour, and the adjacent main- 
 land. The calm sea, the port crowded with ships 
 bearing the flags of all nations, the town lying 
 below in the midst of tropical vegetation, and 
 the barren mountains, rocks, and islands around, 
 form a striking scene. Dr. Eitel took me to see an 
 opium-boiling establishment, where opium is boiled 
 preparatory for use, much of it to be sent to California, 
 for consumption there. This and other houses are
 
 02 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 licensed by a man who farms tlie right to boil opium^ 
 and pays the Colonial Government 120,000 dollars 
 (24j000Z.) a year, for three years, for the privilege. 
 There were eighteen men at work, preparing it to be 
 put in boxes and sent to California. I was informed 
 that Dr. Dudgeon had recently visited this establish- 
 ment, and questioned the proprietor, who said he con- 
 sidered opium a great evil, and would not keep a man 
 in his employment who smoked it, but he carried on 
 the business for the sake of profit. Dr. Eitel says it is 
 destroying the population, as opium-smokers have no 
 children. 
 
 I now prepared to leave Hongkong. Business 
 here is carried on in dollars, and one does not hear 
 of taels as at Shanghai. The Oriental and other 
 banks issue notes, which are a great convenience. Sir 
 John Smale, Dr. Eitel, and Mr. Davis, most kindly 
 accompanied me on board the P. and 0. steamer 
 " Golconda," Captain Anderson, and saw me off. At 
 twelve the ship started, but owing to a difficulty in 
 getting round in the harbour it was one before we got 
 away. At sunset we were losing sight of the Chinese 
 islands, the last of which, like the last rock of Japan, 
 is called the Asses' Ears. I could have wished my 
 time in China had been longer, but, being prevented 
 from visiting Pekin, it seemed better to devote to India 
 time which to every traveller who does not wish 
 to be caught by the hot season must be necessarily 
 limited. Under any circumstance, travelling beyond 
 the Treaty Ports is not easy to those who have no
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 93 
 
 knowledge of the language, as, owing to the difference 
 of dialects, interpreters are not readily procured. 
 Hence all that one can see must be seen from the 
 deck of a ship. The present is pre-eminently an age 
 of change. Hardly any important country can be 
 pointed out in which great alterations Lave not occurred 
 in our own time. China, of all countries, attempts a 
 determined hostility to change. Railways and tele- 
 graphs have created a revolution in the civilized world, 
 and are extending their influence over semi-barbarous 
 nations. Even the Ottoman Empire is traversed by 
 telegraphs, and permits railways. China alone offers 
 a determined opposition to their introduction. Their 
 excuse as regards railroads is, that their construction 
 might desecrate the graves of their ancestors, whom 
 they worship ; but they cannot avail themselves of this 
 plea in regard to telegraplis. The hostility evidently 
 arises from a settled determination to resist all inter- 
 course with foreigners. Little seems known of the 
 intrigues of the Imperial Palace, though rumour says that 
 the late Emperor was murdered by the Dowager Em- 
 press, a most vicious woman, who, nevertheless, must 
 possess great talent for intrigue, as she has managed 
 to retain power for a long course of years. An infant 
 Emperor, with two Dowager Empresses, while Prince 
 Kung, the only able man of the family, is not con- 
 sulted, must of necessity forma wretched Government, 
 and it is no wonder that the Mandarins are able to 
 oppress the provinces which they rule.' The Taeping 
 ' It is only fair to admit that in Li-Hung-Chang, the pre-
 
 94 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 rebellion mast have caused immense suffering to the 
 nation, though, had it succeeded, it might have founded 
 a different and a better Government. These Oriental 
 nations, with no ability for self-government, must 
 depend for their happiness on the character of their 
 rulers, and the present dynasty appears to be effete 
 and tottering to its fall. It may be upset by some 
 soldier of fortune, who has the genius to seize the 
 Empire ; or it may fall a prey to some great Western 
 Power. When I hear people frightening themselves 
 about the advance of Russia towards India, I think that 
 a more tempting game presents itself for Muscovite 
 ambition in China. The two empires are contiguous, 
 and the Colossus of the North would not have to con- 
 tend with a civilized nation to conquer these teeming 
 millions of unwarlike Asiatics. The Chinese, when 
 drilled by European officers, are said to make soldiers, 
 but of course their army could not contend with that 
 of any of the Great Powers. The central authority 
 seems to be very weak, and unable to maintain its 
 authority in the provinces. At the time of my visit, 
 the mission to Yunan to inquire into the murder of 
 Mr. Margery had just started, and many feared that 
 our envoys ran great risk. The Government, finding 
 itself too weak to interfere in Formosa, was obliged to 
 allow the Japanese to take their own course. I found 
 
 sent Grand Secretary of the empire, and Governor of Ctihli, 
 China possesses a ruler of the first ability, and one, moreover, 
 who, if report may be trusted, is not likely to commit himself to 
 a policy of blind resistance to change.
 
 .VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST, 95 
 
 many people, especially among the merchants, blaming 
 Sir Thomas Wade for want of firmness with the Court 
 of Pekin, and crying out for a spirited, in other words 
 a warlike, policy. To such persons I remarked, '' What 
 is it that you propose to do ? In the first place, Sir 
 T. Wade only carries out — very ably, it is true — the 
 instructions he receives from Downing Street. But 
 suppose Lord Derby was to take a different line. We 
 have had two or three small wars with China. If we 
 have another, it must be a war on a very difierent 
 scale, and we must exact material concessions at the 
 conclusion of it. The least we can ask is the sovereignty 
 of the island of Formosa, and of the country round 
 Shanghai, including the mouths of the Yangtsee. If 
 we carried on such a war, and took this territory, we 
 should probably overthrow the present dynasty, and 
 plunge the country into anarchy. Having once begun, 
 we should be driven in China, as we have been in 
 India, to enlarge our dominions, whether we wished it 
 or not, and finally we should be obliged to govern 
 China as we govern India. Are you prepared for such 
 a course ? If you are not, it is a matter of necessity 
 that England should pursue a policy of great forbear- 
 ance.^' Those of whom I asked these questions were 
 obliged to admit that they could not contemplate such 
 a contingency, and I told them that I believed no 
 English Minister, least of all Lord Derby, would pur- 
 sue such a policy. No doubt the difficulties which we 
 have to encounter in dealing with Chinese diplomacy 
 are great, but it is important that we should not allow
 
 96 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHINA, AND INDIA, 
 
 such difficulties unduly to influence us, but should 
 pursue a course of moderation and justice. The mer- 
 cantile community are undoubtedly greatly influenced by 
 the depression of trade which has prevailed for some 
 years. When men go to the other side of the world to 
 make their fortunes, it is naturally very discouraging to 
 find some of those fluctuations, to which all business is 
 liable, prevailing, and to be obliged to remain abroad for 
 a much longer period than they had intended. This 
 feeling is aggravated by the recollections of the large 
 fortunes which in former days have been made in the 
 China trade. Hence it is no cause for surprise if people, 
 under such circumstances, think that the Government 
 might do much to remedy the existing state of things. 
 It is no wonder if they cannot enter into the views of 
 a minister who has the responsibility of advising her 
 Majesty in the exercise of what the late Lord Derby 
 most truly called " that most awful prerogative of the 
 Crown, the declaring of war," or of the British people, 
 who have to pay the taxes which it would occasion. 
 The course pursued by England cannot but be an 
 obstacle to Christian missions. To the Chinese we 
 must appear as a nation who force on them a poisonous 
 and pernicious di'ug, who have carried on unjust wars 
 for the protection of our trade, and who, in former 
 days, encouraged gambling in our dependency, while 
 another European nation supported the infamous coolie 
 emigration, feuch charges against Christian countries 
 must prove a great impediment to the success of 
 the Gospel when preached by the missionaries. These
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 97 
 
 holy and devoted men are subjected to many priva- 
 tions. They have to reside far from their friends and 
 native land^ in an unhealthy climate, and, after acquir- 
 ing- a difficult language, to labour among a heathen 
 population. Nevertheless, servants of God — both from 
 Europe and America — go forth in the service of their 
 Master, and, in spite of all discouragements, they have 
 the reward of seeing that His blessing attends their 
 labours. Nor should any difference of opinion prevent 
 our doing justice to the heroism displayed by the 
 Roman Catholics. For centuries the Roman Catholics, 
 and especially the Jesuits, have laboured in China, 
 and have penetrated further than any other foreigners. 
 The celibacy enforced by the Latin Church has been pro- 
 ductive of many evils, and in a distant exile it seems 
 peculiarly important that a minister should have the 
 consolations of domestic life ; nevertheless, it must be 
 admitted that the absence of every tie to life may be 
 an assistance in undertaking perilous expeditions into 
 remote and barbarous regions, and may enable the 
 missionary more easily to obtain a footing among the 
 people. Great complaints have been raised against 
 the missionaries, both Protestant and Roman Catholic, 
 and it has been alleged that they are the great hin- 
 drance to peaceful intercourse with China. No doubt 
 the Imperial Government is opposed to all attempts at 
 proselytism, and would rather see the missionaries ex- 
 pelled ; but for Christians who believe that our great 
 end in our intercourse with heathen nations should be 
 the spread of the Gospel, this consideration has no 
 
 H
 
 98 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 weight. It is our duty, nationally and individually, to 
 do all tliat lies in our power to uphold the hands of 
 our brethren who are taking the glorious message of 
 ''peace on earth, and good-will towards men" to a 
 benighted people. But it may, with great reason, be 
 denied that the missionary question has much, if any- 
 thing, to do with our difficulties with China. These 
 difficulties arise from conduct unworthy of our Chris- 
 tian profession, which has disgusted both the Govern- 
 ment and the people of China. 
 
 There are three questions connected with China, in 
 which, when I was in Parliament, I took some interest — 
 the opium trade, Hongkong gambling, and the coolie 
 trade. We often hear it said that it is hypocrisy to ob- 
 ject to opium when we ourselves derive so large a revenue 
 from alcohol. Every one must deplore the fearful evils 
 produced by drunkenness in our own country, but it may 
 be pointed out that the two questions are not similar. 
 The use of wine dates from the earliest periods which 
 history records, and in many nations it has been used 
 with little or no abuse. Moreover, alcohol, in one 
 form or other, is constantly prescribed by physicians to 
 their patients, and most of us consider its use im- 
 portant to our health. So far as the action of the 
 English Government is concerned, it has simply been 
 by heavy taxation and by restrictions in the sale to 
 discourage consumption. Opium, on the other hand, 
 is only used medically in cases of severe illness ; 
 smoking it is not pi^escribed by physicians ; and with- 
 out asserting that it is never used in moderation, it has
 
 TOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 99 
 
 a fearful tendency to enslave its victims. Moreover, 
 the action of tlie Indian Government has not been to 
 discourage production, but to regulate it with a view 
 to the largest possible revenue. It is an Indian rather 
 than a Chinese question, and for the present I must 
 merely allude to the results in regard to China. A 
 great authority, with whom I conversed on the subject, 
 pleaded that the taste for opium did not originate with 
 its introduction by the East India Company, but must 
 have existed in China long before we traded there, as 
 we then knew nothing, and now know little, of the in- 
 terior provinces. For the honour of England, I hope 
 this view may be true, as it would be a comfort to 
 think that, though we have undoubtedly encouraged, we 
 did not introduce this vice ; but I can but fear there is 
 no evidence in support of the theory. Opium is now 
 so general that people cannot conceive that a century 
 since it was unknown. My friend believed that the 
 growth in China is large and increasing, and has 
 existed for a long course of years. This seems the 
 .general view, and I can but fear that the evil has 
 grown to such an extent that it is no longer in our 
 power to put a stop to it. In former days the Chinese 
 Government was sincerely desirous to suppress the con- 
 sumption, and proved their earnestness by their re- 
 fusal to legalize the trade by a customs^ duty, and by 
 the sacrifices they made at the time of '' the opium 
 war'' of 1839, of which Mr. Gladstone said, '^^A war 
 more unjust in its origin, a war more calculated to 
 cover this country with permanent disgrace, I do not 
 
 H 2
 
 ]00 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 know and I have not read oi.'' TLougli beaten in this 
 war, tlie Emperor of China refused to derive a revenue 
 from the demoralization of his people by legalizing 
 the trade. Now, defeated in subsequent wars, and 
 weakened by internal dissensions, the Imperial Go- 
 vernment may not have the power, if it has the will, to 
 forbid the importation and the cultivation of opium. 
 It is a sad chapter in our national history. The very 
 nation which has been foremost in suppressing the 
 slave-trade, and which paid 20,000,000Z. to abolish 
 slavery, has, for the sake of illicit gain, demoralized an 
 unoffending people. I could fill a volume with quota- 
 tions from eminent men, denouncing the trade. I 
 shall content myself with one testimony, that of Baron 
 Yon Hubner,* the greatest European statesman who 
 has travelled in the East, who, after bearing witness 
 to the upright and honourable conduct of the merchants 
 on all occasions, adds, "There is, of course, one dark side 
 — the opium trade — now perfectly legal, but immoral in 
 my eyes, from the fact that it furnishes a poison to the 
 people, the deleterious effects of which, as far as I 
 myself have seen, cannot possibly be exaggerated. 
 Those who are most interested in this trade do not 
 attempt to deny it.^'' Similar evidence might be 
 quoted to any extent. I give full credit to Indian 
 statesmen (to whose diflBculties in connexion with this 
 subject I shall hereafter have to allude) and to China 
 
 ' He was Austrian Ambassador at Paris in 1859, and it was 
 to liim that Napoleon addressed the celebrated declaration which 
 preceded the war.
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 101 
 
 merchantSj for believing tliat the evils of opium have 
 been greatly exaggerated; but, after making every 
 allowance, I cannot but think that the British people 
 have been culpable in regard to this question. 
 
 I have already had occasion to say something in 
 regard to the gambling-houses at Hongkong. It 
 seems not to be doubted that gambling is a great and 
 an inherent vice of the Chinese. All that the British 
 Government can do is to discourage it. The policy of 
 Sir Richai^d Macdonnell to license houses for the pur- 
 pose, for the sake of a revenue of 180^000 dollars 
 (35,000Z.) per annum, was obviously immoral. When 
 all the Great Powers of the world prohibit establish- 
 ments of this description, it would have been impossible 
 for English Ministers to permit their continuance in a 
 Crown Colony, and it is only justice to Lord Kimberley 
 and to Mr. KnatchbuU-Hugessen to say that, as soon 
 as attention was called to the matter, they took imme- 
 diate steps to suppress them. We may now rejoice to 
 believe that England is clear from all complicity with a 
 vice which was formerly openly permitted in the colony. 
 
 These gambling-houses were the means of supporting 
 a trade which was a curse to China, When a coolie 
 had lost his last cent, he would stake his liberty on a 
 final throw of the dice, and if it went against him ho 
 would hand himself over to those who recruited 
 coolies for Cuba or Peru.^ They placed him on board 
 
 * I quote from statements made in Parliament, February 
 16tli, 1872, the correctness of whicli was admitted by Lord 
 Enfield, the Under-Secz-etary for Foreign Affairs.
 
 102 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 a steamer, carried him to Macao, confined liim in t]ie 
 barracoons, and shipped liim off for his destination 
 The horrors of the voyage it would be difl&cult to exag- 
 gerate. A crowded ship has discomforts under the 
 most favourable circumstances, but these unfortunate 
 emigrants were packed together as closely as possible; 
 and when the owners and captains of the ships were 
 actuated simply by the desire to make as much money 
 as possible out of their human cargo, no wonder if the 
 sufferings were horrible. The Chinese coolie traffic vied 
 with the African slave-ti'ade in its abominations. 
 Men were decoyed from their homes, made to sign 
 agreements in a language which they did not under- 
 stand, forced on shipboard, and sent to a distant land 
 never to return. It would be a horrible lot for any 
 man, and for a Chinaman, with his intense desire to lay 
 his bones in his native land, it has additional horrors. 
 Attention was called to the trade in 1871, by the case 
 of the " Dolores Ugarte," a vessel which sailed from 
 Macao for Peru, on May 15th, with a cargo of 656 
 coolies. On the 17th, a fire having broken out, the 
 hatchways were fastened down, the crew took to the 
 boats, and 600 Chinese were left to their fate. A few 
 of them managed to escape, and their evidence showed 
 that they had been induced by acquaintances, on pre- 
 tence of work, to make the journey to Macao; that, 
 instead of having their expectations realized, they were 
 cruelly treated, and threatened by emigration agents ; 
 that they signed papers which were neither explained 
 nor read to them, and that they were carried on board
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 1 0."3 
 
 ship against tlieir will. Such was the history of the 
 unhappy men left to perish in the " Dolores Ugarte.^' 
 On a previous voyage of the same ship eighteen coolies 
 jumped overboard in consequence of ill-treatment, 
 twenty-five died from want, and forty-three were in 
 such a hopeless state of disease that they were landed 
 at Honolulu. Such were the horrors of the voyage, 
 but the fate of those who reached their destination 
 was equally miserable. The Chincha Islands are per- 
 fectly destitute of vegetation, and the Chinese who are 
 decoyed there for the term of three years seldom live 
 to complete their slavery. They are detained by an armed 
 force, huddled together in the most miserable manner, 
 fed only after performing a certain amount of labour, 
 and subjected to horrible tortures. They are hung by 
 ropes round the waist from sunrise to sunset^ without 
 food during that period, for one, two, or more days. 
 No wonder that the poor creatures often cut short their 
 sufferings by suicide. Those who were sent to the 
 mainland fared little better, as a large Peruvian farmer 
 would purchase three or four hundred, lock them up 
 at six at night in an enclosure, tm-n them out 
 at half-past four in the morning under armed and 
 mounted drovers, and give them only two meals a day 
 of rice or beans. Those who live out their contract 
 are afraid to ask their liberty lest they should bo 
 flogged. Such was the wretched fate of coolie emi- 
 grants to Peru. 
 
 The Committee of the Aborigines Protection Society, 
 in a memorial addressed to Lord Salisbury on Sept. 2,
 
 104 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 18 74, quote the following extract from a despatcli whicli 
 Mr. Tliomas, the American Minister at Lima, had ad- 
 dressed to the Secretary of State at Washington in 
 April of the preceding year : — " Having made careful 
 inquiry on the subject, I am prepared to say that the 
 treatment of these unfortunate Chinese, thus forced 
 violently from their homes by the landlords of Peru, by 
 whom crowds of them are employed, is more harsh 
 than that to which slaves in the United States were 
 formerly subjected. '^ 
 
 As regards Cuba, we have the evidence of Com- 
 missioners appointed by the Chinese Government to 
 inquire into the condition of Chinese coolies in that 
 island. These gentlemen, one Chinese, one English- 
 man, and one American, Messrs. Ch-en-Tampin, Mac- 
 pherson, and Huber, have made an elaborate report 
 dated October 20th, 1874. They say, " All investiga- 
 tions of Chinese were conducted verbally and in per- 
 son by ourselves. The depositions and petitions show 
 that eight-tenths of the entire number declared that 
 they had been kidnapped or decoyed; that the mor- 
 tality during the voyage from wounds caused by blows, 
 suicide, and sickness, proves to have exceeded ten per 
 cent.; that, on arrival at Havanna, they were sold 
 into slavery, a small proportion being disposed of to 
 families and shops, while the large majority became 
 the property of sugar-planters; that the cruelty dis- 
 played towards those of the former class is great, and 
 that it assumes, in the case of those of the latter, pro- 
 portions that are unendurable. The labour, too, on the
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 105 
 
 plantations is shown to be excessively severe, and the 
 food to be insufficient. The hours of labour are too 
 long, and the chastisements by rods, whips, chains, &c., 
 productive of suffering and injury. During the past 
 years a large number have been killed by blows, have 
 died from the effects of wounds, and have hanged them- 
 selves; cut their throats, poisoned themselves with 
 opium, and thrown themselves into wells and sugar-cal- 
 drons. It was also possible to verify, by personal inspec- 
 tion, wounds inflicted upon them, the fractured and 
 maimed limbs, blindness, the heads full of sores, the teeth 
 struck out, the ears mutilated, and the skin and flesh 
 lacerated, proofs of cruelty patent to all." Such is the 
 report of the Commissioners ; and as a sample of the 
 evidence on which that report is founded, the following 
 statements made by coolies, taken at random from 
 hundreds of others, may be quoted. Lim-show and 
 four others state, " We were decoyed to the Macao 
 barracoons, and, though not inspected by any Portu- 
 guese officials, were forced by soldiers to embark, 
 while no one heeded the cries for aid which we uttered 
 on the way." A petition' from neai-ly 100 native dis- 
 tricts complains that '' Spanish vessels come to China, 
 and, suborning the visions of our countrymen, by their 
 aid carry away full cargoes of men, of whom eigljit or nine 
 out of every ten are decoyed." Ch'en Yu-shu and 
 four others say, " Whether we are disposed of as do- 
 mestic slaves, or sold to sugar warehouses or shops, we 
 are dealt with as dogs, horses, or oxen, badly fed, and 
 deprived of rest, so that a single day becomes a year."
 
 106 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CniNA, AXD INDIA. 
 
 Wang Chang deposes, '' I found the chaining and 
 flogging so unendurable during the first six months of 
 my service that I attempted suicide/^ Hung Feng-chi 
 and eleven others state, " We had to endure every kind 
 of suffering. When our terms of service were drawing 
 to then* close, we thought that we could rely upon our 
 contracts, and that we should be able to go out and reap 
 advantage; but these documents were held as invalid, 
 and our freedom was withheld. ^^ Ho A-pu deposes, 
 " If we went outside only a few steps we were regarded 
 as attempting to escape, and were seized. Thus no 
 one dared to prefer complaints.'^ Wang Mu-Chow 
 says, " Finding the labour too arduous, I made a com- 
 plaint to the officials, and the latter recommended my 
 master to be less exacting, and to supply me with 
 sufficient food. He assented ; but, when he had 
 brought me back, he forced me to vv^ork with chained 
 feet during seven months. '^ Chu Afu " saw a native 
 so severely beaten that he drowned himself. Besides, 
 there were seven other men who committed suicide." 
 Such are a few of the statements which justify the 
 Commissioners in the conclusions at which they 
 have arrived; and I think it must be admitted 
 that nothing more horrible ever found place in an 
 official document. Truly, " the dark places of the 
 earth are full of the habitations of cruelty. '^ The 
 Chinaman, like the native of other countries, has his 
 faults ; but, properly treated, he is an industrious 
 labourer, well calculated to promote the development 
 of the land where he settles. That he should be sub-
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE CHINESE COAST. 107 
 
 jected to this terrible slavery is a disgrace to the 
 civilization of the 19th century. To Lord Granville 
 belongs the honour of having stopped this abominable 
 traffic. His remonstrances with the Portuguese 
 Government were at last crowned with success^ and he 
 had the satisfaction, before he left office, of seeing the 
 barracoons closed at Macao. The report of the Com- 
 missioners, from which I have quoted, has induced the 
 Chinese Government to prohibit immigration to Cuba ; 
 and therefore, so far as China is concerned, we have 
 no longer to deplore the horrors of a trade as bad, or 
 worse, than the slave-trade. Still, numbers of unhappy 
 Chinese are still pining, in violation of right and 
 justice, on the plantations of Cuba, and it must be the 
 duty of that illustrious statesman, who now guides the 
 Foreign policy of England, to remonstrate on the 
 subject. 
 
 It is a lamentable consideration that, when we had 
 fondly hoped the slave-trade had been abolished in the 
 days of our fathers, we should find it in our own time 
 in as fearful activity as ever. We have stopped the 
 accursed traffic on the West Coast of Africa ; but on 
 the East Coast, on the India seas, and on the Pacific 
 Ocean, we have witnessed atrocities such as those 
 which roused the righteous indignation of Clarkson 
 and Wilberforce. We have had occasion to employ 
 the burning words of the poet Cowper, written a cen- 
 tury ago, — 
 
 " But all ! what wish can prosper or what prayer, 
 For merchants rich in cargoes of despair,
 
 108 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Who drive a loathsome traffic, gauge and span, 
 And buy the muscles and the bones of man ? 
 The tender ties of father, husband, friend, 
 All bonds of nature in that moment end ; 
 And each endures, while yet he draws his breath, 
 A stroke as fatal as the scythe of death." 
 
 England has made many sacrifices for the suppres- 
 sion of tlie slave-trade, and for the abolition of slavery ; 
 but the time has not yet arrived when her efforts can 
 be permitted to terminate.
 
 109 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE STEAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 
 
 There are two principal lines of steamers running to 
 China — the Peninsular and Oriental, commonly called 
 the P. and 0., sailing from Southampton and Venice, 
 and the Messageries Maritimes, which run to Mar- 
 seilles. There are, besides, several mercantile lines, 
 which take passengers at cheaper rates with inferior 
 accommodation. The English and French boats 
 leave China alternate weeks. The English mercantile 
 community in China prefer the Messageries, alleging, 
 as a reason, that they are taken to Marseilles without 
 change of vessel. They have the advantage of being 
 cheaper, as they give beer and wine, which are charged 
 for on the P. and 0. ; but for my part, if it comes on 
 to blow, I prefer being under the care of an English 
 captain. 
 
 The " Golconda " was the first of five P. and 
 O. vessels in which I sailed between Hongkong 
 and Brindisi, and in all of them I received much 
 kindness from the captains and officers. It is much 
 to be regretted that the Company have thought it
 
 110 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 necessary to reduce the salaries of their employes. 
 No doubt their profits have fallen off, and the fact of 
 their rivals, the Messageries, being supported by the 
 French Government with an enormous subvention as 
 a school for their seamen, places them at a disadvan- 
 tage ; but it is never good policy to deal stingily with 
 old servants, and the tendency of the reduction must 
 be to lower the high position which has been main- 
 tained by the officers in their service. The fare from 
 Hongkong to Brindisi is 85?., with leave to stop in 
 India. Not being aware of this, I only booked to 
 Calcutta, and again from Bombay ; but on my return 
 to England the Company very liberally repaid me the 
 difference. 
 
 We made 246 knots on December 10th, 272 on the 
 11th, 283 on the 12th, 308 on the 13th, and 270 on 
 the 14th, leaving 83 to Singapore. This was a very 
 fast run for one of these boats, which are timed at 
 about ten knots per hour ; but we had a tremendous 
 monsoon in our favour. It was much such weather as 
 the " Alaska " encountered, only now we were running 
 before a fresh gale. On one occasion the log was 
 hauled fourteen knots, when Captain Grant exclaimed, 
 " This is the first time in my life that I have ever gone 
 fourteen knots.''' I told him it was evident he had 
 never crossed the Atlantic in a mail steamer. Our 
 course was only a little to the west of south, and it 
 got hotter hour by hour. For four days, except one 
 or two small islands, we were out of sight of land. 
 They say it is unusual to take the monsoon so near to
 
 THE STEAITS SETTLEMEK'iS AND CEYLON. Ill 
 
 the Equator. It was full moon, whicli reminded me 
 of Byron^s description of — 
 
 " The lovely light 
 Which but becomes an Eastern night." 
 
 The 14tli was very hot, tlie thermometer being 80°, 
 while it constantly rained, and at times poured. The 
 heat and damp of the Equator one would think must 
 be very trying ; but the residents seem to enjoy better 
 health than one might expect. Captain Anderson, 
 not caring to reach Singapore a day before his time, 
 took down sail and slowed his engines, which he 
 had previously been unable to do. About half-past 
 nine we reached the roads of Singapore, and anchored 
 for the night. The lights of the town looked well from 
 the water. On being boarded from H.M.S. "Egeria,^' 
 we learnt that there had been a skirmish between 
 some men of the 10th regiment and the Malays, in 
 which, after two Englishmen had been killed, and two 
 mortally wounded, three stockades of the Malays were 
 taken . When at Kobe I heard a very exaggerated 
 report of disturbances at Singapore, it being even 
 stated that all the Europeans in the colony had been 
 murdered. This was the extent to which the murder 
 of the resident, Mr. Birch, was exaggerated by report — 
 
 " Fama qua non malum aliud velocius ullum 
 Mobilitate viget viresque acquirit eundo." 
 
 At Shanghai there were rumours that Admiral Ryder 
 had taken the fleet to the Straits ; but it turned out
 
 112 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 not to be the admiral but GeneralColbourne, who took 
 down a detachment of troops from Hongkong, and 
 was joined by the Buffs from India. On approaching 
 Singapore, the city of Johore lies to the north. The 
 enlightened administration of the Maharajah of Johore 
 deserves the admiration with which it is regarded by 
 the European community of the Straits. His Highness 
 had at this time gone to Calcutta to attend the Prince's 
 Durbar. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 15th the "Golconda'* 
 moved into the Inner Harbour, where the P. and 0. 
 boats lie. Captain Anderson was anxious to leave 
 the same day, but the Post Office would not allow him 
 to do so, as the Company are under contract to remain 
 twenty-four hours here. This I was very glad of, as 
 I was hospitably entertained by Mr. Donaldson, a 
 lawyer here, whose wife is a daughter of my friend 
 and late colleague, Mr. Eastwick. The roads run 
 through tropical vegetation, palms, bananas, bamboos, 
 &c. Singapore is an imposing city. The cathedral 
 and public buildings are fine, and the gorgeous cos- 
 tumes of the Malays and Indians render it more 
 picturesque than a Chinese town. There is a large 
 foreign population from all parts of the East, but 
 chiefly from China and Madi'as. I visited the Courts, 
 where the number of languages spoken entails nume- 
 rous interpreters. Punkas are necessary everywhere, 
 on shipboard, at business, and at meals. The thermo- 
 meter was only 74° to 76°, as low as it ever is, though 
 they say it rarely exceeds 86°. It rains almost daily,
 
 THE STEAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. ] ] 3 
 
 tlioiTgli I was told tlie twenty-four hours' steady rain I 
 experienced is not common. The sun being vertical 
 at the equinoxes (the latitude is only 1° 14' N.), and 
 the Java wind blowing in July, make the climate very 
 oppressive most of the year. The heat, the luxuriant 
 vegetation, and the constant rain, would seem likely to 
 produce malaria ; but the place appears wonderfully 
 healthy. The damp, however, seems to affect horses, 
 who do not get through the work here they do in 
 India. Next morning Mr. Donaldson took me to 
 breakfast with the Hon Mr. Whampoa, a great 
 Chinese merchant, and a member of the Legislative 
 Council, where we met Captain Grant and Captain 
 Parlby, of the Royal Artillery, who was our fellow-pas- 
 senger on the "■ Golconda " from Hongkong to Ceylon. 
 Mr. Whampoa' s house, which is full of Chinese and 
 Japanese curiosities, and his gardens, which contain 
 the finest tropical plants, are the great sight of Singa- 
 pore. Though dressing in national costume, and eating- 
 little himself, he gave us a European meal. He is 
 much respected in the colony, and I have been very 
 glad to see, since my return, that the Queen has con- 
 ferred on him the Companionship of St. Michael and 
 St. George. I have often regretted that successive 
 administrations have not been more liberal in recom- 
 mending her Majesty to confer honours on distinguished 
 colonists, as I believe it would do much to bind the 
 Empire together. The day cleared up, and the 
 country looked beautiful, when, after taking leave of 
 my kind host and hostess, I returned on board the
 
 114 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 " Golconda/' which sailed at 4 p.m. It was at 
 Singapore I heard of the purchase of the Suez Canal 
 shares, which seemed to give great satisfaction to the 
 English community here, as in other parts of the East. 
 From Singapore to Penang is a voyage of two nights 
 and one day. On the right are the Malay hills, where 
 fighting was then going on. Captain Grant was very 
 familiar with the district, as he had two years before 
 conducted some successful operations against the 
 Malay pirates. On the left is the low-lying land of 
 Sumatra. About half-past eight on the morning of 
 the 18th we reached Penang. The wooded hills at the 
 back o£ the town make the scene very beautiful. In 
 company with Mr. Williams, the doctor of the ship, I 
 made an attempt to visit a waterfall. Driving for 
 about two miles through beautiful groves of cocoa-nut 
 and bamboo, we left our " gindy," as they call the small 
 carriage of the country, and turned up a hill. Having 
 mistaken the path, we had a steaming-hot walk up the 
 mountain, with the thermometer at near 80", to a con- 
 siderable height. After traversing impracticable paths 
 for a considerable distance, we gave up the waterfall, 
 though we were repaid by a fine view of the valley, 
 which reminded me of the Devil's Glen in Wicklow, 
 with its tropical products. The damp climate makes 
 this country very verdant, and it seems to be very 
 healthy, considering the amount of rain and the vicinity 
 to the Equator. Europeans, however, require frequent 
 change, which cannot be obtained without travelling 
 long distances. !Mrs. Philippo the wife of the Attor-
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 115 
 
 nej-General of the Straits, had come up in the 
 " Golcouda " from Singapore to join her husband, who 
 was in attendance on the Governor here. I called at 
 the Colonial Office to see Mr. Philippo, whom I had 
 known in England. He was not there ; but the 
 Governor, Sir William Jervoise, very kindly saw me. 
 He is a pleasing, gentlemanly man, and I felt very 
 sorry for him in the difficulties in which he w^as in- 
 volved. I told him I thought a great objection to 
 annexation was, that it would involve a large increase 
 in the European establishment, both civil and military, 
 which was undesirable in such a climate. To this he 
 replied that the climate was exceedingly healthy. 
 
 The affairs of the Malay States must occasion great 
 anxiety, both to the Colonial Secretary and to the Gover- 
 nor of the Straits. The East India Company acquired the 
 settlements of Singapore, Malacca, and Penang, which 
 are of great importance to us, on account of our large 
 trade to China. Surrounded, as they are, by a bar- 
 barous population of Malays, a population much given to 
 piracy, our relations with the natives must always have 
 required great care. Our course would seem to be 
 to have as little as possible to do with the internal ad- 
 ministration of the native States. Interference would 
 be sure to involve us, sooner or later, in wars; and, 
 considering the climate, it is desirable to keep no 
 troops in the Straits of Malacca, except such as are 
 absolutely necessary for the protection of our settle- 
 ments. No doubt there are difficulties in such a course. 
 A mercantile community is always anxious to use arms 
 
 I 2
 
 116 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 in support of their trade, and tlie constant pressure of 
 colonial society has a tendency to drive a Governor to 
 take steps which a statesman who considers those 
 questions in the calm seclusion of Downing Street 
 finds it difficult to approve. A large immigration of 
 Chinese has, of late years, taken place to the Malay 
 Peninsula, and their conflicts with the natives have 
 complicated the position of affairs. The country ap- 
 pears to be rich in mines, which are a great induce- 
 ment to English capitalists to settle in it. In 1867 
 the management of these colonies was transferred from 
 the Indian Government to the Colonial Secretary. 
 Till 1873 the Colonial Office wisely strove to prevent 
 interference with the troubled politics of the native 
 States. Their policy is laid down in a letter from the 
 unfortunate Mr. Birch, Secretary of Sir H. Ord, to the 
 Singapore Chamber of Commerce, dated Singapore, 
 August 21st, 1872,' in which he says, — 
 
 " At the same time, I am further directed to point 
 out that it is the policy of her Majesty^s Government not 
 to interfere in the affairs of these countries, unless 
 where it becomes necessary for the suppression of 
 piracy or the punishment of aggression on our people 
 or territories ; and that if traders, prompted by the 
 prospect of large gains, choose to run the risk of 
 placing their persons and property in the jeopardy 
 which they are aware attends them in these countries 
 under present circumstances, it is impossible for Go- 
 
 1 Blue Book, 1874, p. 6.
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 117 
 
 vernment to be answerable for their protection or that 
 of their property.'" This letter, which was approved 
 by Lord Kimberley on December 28th,' details a policy 
 which might with advantage have been adhered to; 
 but, influenced as it would appear by a petition signed 
 by 248 Chinese merchants, the noble earl altered his 
 views. In a memorable despatch, dated September 
 20th, 1873,' he authorized the Governor to consider 
 " whether any steps could be taken to improve the 
 condition of parts of the peninsula,"" and suggests the 
 appointment of residents to the native States. This 
 despatch was addressed to the new Governor, Sir 
 Andrew Clarke, who at once proceeded to take steps to 
 regulate the affairs of the native States. Sir Andrew 
 Clarke is a man of great ability, and appears to have 
 acquired much influence over the natives ; so that 
 possibly, if he could have remained for a long course of 
 years, some of the evils which have resulted from his 
 proceedings might have been averted. As it was, he 
 accepted what he thought a more desirable appoint- 
 ment in India, and no blame attaches to Sir William 
 Jervoise if he was unable at once to succeed to the 
 influence of his predecessor. As in the case of 
 Ashantee, a change of Governor at a critical moment 
 involved us in war. Sir Andrew Clarke at once pro- 
 ceeded to adjudicate on a disputed succession to the 
 throne of Perak. Ali, the Sultan of Perak, died on 
 the 25th of May, 1871, and a quarrel arose as to his 
 successor. The candidates were Abdullah, one of tho 
 2 P. 7. » P. 38.
 
 118 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 royal family, who held an office which had usually been 
 considered to belong to the heir presumptive; and 
 Ismail, who, on Abdullah's failing to attend the funeral 
 of the deceased Sultan, which Malay custom renders 
 imperative on the successor, was placed by the chiefs 
 on the vacant throne. It was argued that Abdullah 
 had been recognized in Sultan Ali's time as his suc- 
 cessor, though it was said that his habits and his state 
 of health, probably the result of opium, rendered him 
 unfit to rule. On the other hand, it was claimed for 
 Ismail that, though not of the royal line on his father's 
 side, yet, when his rival failed to fulfil the duty of 
 attending All's funeral, he had succeeded to the posi- 
 tion, and that his character rendered him far more 
 eligible to govern a wild race. Sir Andrew Clarke 
 decided in favour of Abdullah, and, so far as the Malay 
 law can be gathered from the memoranda of Messrs. 
 Skinner and Irving, given in the Blue Book, the deci- 
 sion was legally justified, though the high authority 
 of Lord Lawrence may be cited to show that it was 
 a mistake. But the more important question arises 
 whether it was wise to interfere at all. Unless both 
 sides were willing to submit to the Governor's arbi- 
 tration, we should either have to bring British influence 
 into contempt, or to enforce the decision by arms ; and 
 our military strength was reduced at the very time 
 when its increase became necessary, owing to the 
 policy of interference. Ismail retained the regalia — a 
 most important matter in this country. With great 
 admiration for Sir A. Clarke, whose acquaintance I 
 had afterwards the pleasure of making at Calcutta, I
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 119 
 
 cannot but think that his interference in the Perak 
 question was most unfortunate. 
 
 The other point referred to in Lord Kimberley's de- 
 spatch was the appointment of Residents at the native 
 Courts. In India, in many of the native States, the 
 Resident, under the name of advice, communicates the 
 commands of the British Government to the nominal 
 Sovereign ; but in India the great military power of 
 England renders the smaller princes virtually our de- 
 pendents. In the peninsula, our small military force, 
 and the inaccessible nature of much of the country, 
 place the native rulers in a very different position, and 
 the Resident at a Court must fulfil duties of a different 
 kind. Hence the sad events of last year. 
 
 The success of our troops leaves it open to con- 
 sider our future policy. The opinion of the colo- 
 nists strongly supports the annexation of the penin- 
 sula, at least with the exception of Johore, whose 
 enlightened ruler has been our faithful ally. This 
 opinion has been maintained in language of folly and 
 absurdity by the colonial press. The objection is 
 obvious that it will involve a large sacrifice of the lives 
 both of civilians and soldiers to the exigencies of 
 residence in a tropical climate. Lord Carnarvon is 
 right to resist, as long as he can, a measure involving 
 such a sacrifice. Still, sooner or later, the consideration 
 must force itself on the British Government whether, 
 after the proceedings of Sir Andrew Clarke, any course 
 remains but the virtual, if not formal, annexation of the 
 country. In these questions it may be easy to avoid 
 a first step, but that step once taken is irrevocable.
 
 120 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 Should annexation be forced upon us, it is a satisfaction 
 to remember that^ whatever the sacrifice to England, 
 our rule will be a blessing to the native population. 
 
 The transfer of the Straits Settlements from the 
 Indian to the Colonial Secretary is a step to be re- 
 gretted. I have not heard any reason assigned, 
 but I can well suppose that it was a matter of con- 
 venience in Downing Street. The responsible go- 
 vernment of our great colonies must have lessened the 
 work of the Colonial Secretary, while, on the other 
 hand, that of his Indian colleague must be constantly 
 increasing. Still there must have been many advan- 
 tages in the connexion of the Straits with India. 
 Indian statesmen are trained to deal with an Asiatic 
 population, and the habits acquired by a Collector 
 must be far more useful to a Governor of the Straits 
 than those of an officer of a scientific corps. The 
 population of the Malay peninsula are much more 
 likely to be understood by a man trained in India than 
 by one imported from the other side of the world. 
 Another consideration is the Army. Should it be 
 necessary, as I fear it may be, to permanently increase 
 our military force at Singapore, there would be a great 
 advantage in maintaining there some Sepoy regiments. 
 It would relieve the English force serving there, and 
 would be a great assistance in maintaining order. It 
 is to be hoped that, whatever the arrangements of the 
 Home Government, Indian experience may in future 
 be more largely employed in the administration of 
 these Settlements.
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 121 
 
 We left at 3 p.m., and enjoyed the beautiful 
 scenery as we steamed off. The next day we had a 
 heavy storm of ram, which is called here a Sumatra. 
 We passed Atcheen Head, the north point of Sumatra, 
 surrounded by islands. On our starboard was an island 
 called Pulo Rondo, which reminded me of the Steep 
 Holms in the Bristol Channel. Atcheen is a country 
 in which we had claims, which we surrendered to the 
 Dutch in exchange for Elmina. Two wars followed — 
 ours with the King of Ashantee, and that of the Dutch 
 with the Malays of Sumatra. The Dutch have ex- 
 perienced great difficulties in this war, and have been 
 frequently defeated. They seem to be much hated 
 by the Malays, and I was told, though not on particu- 
 larly good authority, that the origin of our difficulties 
 in Perak might be traced to the surrender of Atcheen. 
 The Malays say we were bound not to give them up, 
 and the disgust of the inhabitants of Sumatra has been 
 reflected by the conduct of their brethren in the 
 peninsula. From Atcheen Head our course was nearly 
 due west for Ceylon. The run of the 19th was 232 j 
 20th, 298; 21st, 298; and 22nd, 266. The thermo- 
 meter stood at 82° and 83°. The 21st was the shortest 
 day, but we were too near the Equator for this to make 
 much difference. The " Golconda,^' though an old boat, 
 is a wonderfully good one, and made capital time. On 
 the 22nd we approached Ceylon, and, the night being 
 very dark, we had to go slow and take soundings. Be- 
 tween six and seven next morning, we enjoyed the pretty 
 sight of three P. and 0. steamers, from distant ports.
 
 122 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA,, AND INDIA. 
 
 meeting and following each other into the harbour of 
 Point de Galle. The ^' China " from Australia led the 
 way, the " Golconda '' followed from Shanghai, and the 
 " Mii'zapore '' from Calcutta brought up the rear. It 
 shows how well the P. and 0. service is regulated. The 
 groves of cocoa-nuts made the scene very charming. 
 Galle is a small harbour, and, when several large ships 
 meet there, there is a competition for the best anchor- 
 age. The Prince of Wales has laid the foundation of 
 a breakwater at Colombo, and the people of that city 
 hope, when it is completed, it will supersede Galle. The 
 fact that no effort is made to construct a railway from 
 here to the capital seems to show that the importance 
 of Galle is thought only to be temporary. 
 
 After breakfast I landed in a canoe scooped out of the 
 trunk of a tree, and proceeded to the Oriental Hotel. 
 This hotel, which is one of the best in the East, is kept 
 by Mr. Barker, formerly a servant of Alderman Finnis. 
 It was crowded with the passengers of the three boats 
 which had just arrived. An immense verandah before 
 the house is filled with large armchairs to lounge in. 
 Here travellers smoke, while natives crowd round them 
 to exchange money and sell jewellery. You ai*e perse- 
 cuted by these fellows to an extent I never saw equalled; 
 but as there is little to see, and the heat prevents your 
 moving much about, their pertinacity is rather amusing. 
 I g-ot from the Oriental Bank some of their notes which 
 circulate in the island ; saw a wedding at the church; 
 bought a topee or hat to keep off the sun ; and took my 
 place by night coach to Colombo. In the afternoon I
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 123 
 
 accompanied Captain Grant on board tlie " Mirzapore," 
 iu which he was going home. I almost wished I was 
 going to accompany him, though I felt that the most 
 interesting and instructive part of my journey still lay 
 before me. The " Mirzapore/^ which is a very fine boat, 
 was conveying four elephants to the Khedive, for which 
 stalls had been fitted up on deck. 
 
 At half-past six, after taking leave of my fellow-pas- 
 sengers, I started in the mail, a covered carriage. Captain 
 Parlby, who was ordered to Colombo, being my fellow- 
 passenger. As far as I could make out, the road ran 
 between groves of palms on one side and the sea on the 
 other. The fire-flies were very pretty. We had supper 
 about half-past eleven at a road-side inn near the sea, and 
 accomplished our journey of seventy-two miles by six 
 next morning, I at once proceeded to the railway station, 
 and took the train for Kandy by the Government rail- 
 way, distance seventy-four miles. The line first crosses 
 plains covered with cocoa-nuts, bamboos, and other 
 tropical trees, and then traverses a chain of mountains, 
 winding along precipices and overlooking a magnificent 
 scene. Of course snowy mountains are wanting, and there 
 are no lakes in sight, but, as a picture of hill and wood- 
 land, I have seldom seen it equalled and never surpassed. 
 
 At Kandy I stopped at the Queen's Hotel for 
 Christmas-day and Sunday. Kandy is beautifully 
 situated on a lake surrounded by hills. Excellent 
 roads run round it, while on the side away from the 
 town you may walk for miles over hills covered with 
 coS'ee and other plantations, which reminded mo of
 
 124 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 those around Mentone. On the other side, behind 
 the Governoi-'s palace, a long succession of rides and 
 walks are carried through lovely woods. After tra- 
 versing these for some distance you reach a turn iu 
 the road overlooking an extensive valley with a fine 
 river running through it. Great pains seem to have 
 been taken in laying out these drives by successive 
 governors, who have associated their names with the 
 different paths. The town itself lies in a valley near 
 the lake and is very straggling. The palace, the church, 
 and the green remind one of an English village, though 
 the streets, filled with swarthy Singalese, dispel the 
 illusion. The population is nearly 17,000. The chief 
 temple is called the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, and 
 is said to contain the iooth o£ Buddha. I was glad 
 to see several chapels of native Christian congregations 
 scattered about the town. The congregation of the 
 English church seemed principally composed of the 
 military. I was sorry not to find Sir William Gregory, 
 the Governor of Ceylon, at home, but he had gone to 
 Calcutta to meet the Prince of Wales. From what I 
 could learn from those with whom I came in contact, 
 and from the newspapers, there seems to be some 
 difference between him and the planters. kSome 
 planters had been recently convicted by the magistrates 
 of ill-treating some coolies, and the planting interest 
 charged the Governor with inducing the justices to 
 inflict an unduly harsh punishment. The story sounded 
 to me an exceedingly improbable one, as Sir William 
 Gregory would not be likely to interfere till the matter
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 125 
 
 came officially before him, and neither governor nor 
 magistrates would inflict a penalty more severe than 
 that which they felt impelled by a sense of duty to 
 award. In countries where the white population 
 depend on coolie labour, there is often a tendency 
 in the authorities to favour the master at the expense 
 of the labourer. Of course, in all communities there 
 are men of different dispositions, and I believe the 
 coffee planters of Ceylon have among them several 
 gentlemen who do honour to their country. A gentle- 
 man, who seemed to be a surveyor in the Government 
 service, told me that waste land suitable for coffee is 
 put up at ten rupees an acre as an upset price. When 
 brought into cultivation, the value of i.he best land 
 sometimes exceeds 100^. per acre, but the quantity 
 under cultivation is constantly increased as new land 
 is reclaimed from the hills. The coffee planters had 
 lately been making money fast. The weather was 
 fine during my stay at Kandy, and it was curious on 
 Christmas-day to have windows and doors in church 
 open. 
 
 On the 27th 1 took the railway to Gampola, where, 
 after breakfast, I proceeded by the coach to Rambodde, 
 through a pretty councry, which is traversed by a well- 
 made road. At Rambodde several fine waterfalls make 
 the scene beautiful. As the coach stops hero, I 
 proceeded to walk up the mountain road to Nuwara 
 Eliya (pronounced Nuralia). This road is one of those 
 wonderful specimens of engineering with which we are 
 so familiar in the Alps, and is carried up the pass by a
 
 126 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 succession of terraces. The distance from Eambodde 
 to Nuwara Eliya is fourteen miles, tlie last seven or 
 eight of which I had to travel by the light of the stars. 
 I should have accomplished it very comfortably had it 
 not been that on arriving at Nuwara Eliya the road 
 skirts the town instead of passing through it. The 
 town is, in fact, merely some detached houses . Hence 
 I plodded on till seing " 48 " on a milestone, when 
 I knew Nuwara Eliya was only forty-seven, I turned 
 into a house where I saw a light to inquire. A Mr. 
 Oldfield received me most hospitably, told me I had 
 come too far by nearly two mile*, and sent his son back 
 with me to Hawkins' Club, now an hotel. 
 
 Next morning I started at half-past six to ascend 
 Pedro, the highest mountain in Ceylon. It is 8590 
 feet above the level of the sea ; but, as Nuwara Eliya is 
 6500, there is only about 2000 feet to climb. The 
 horse-path ascends the side of the mountain through 
 woods which extend nearly to the summit. Water is 
 to be found within a short distance of the top — a proof 
 of the moisture of the climate. The summit is marked 
 by a pole on a heap of stones, and commands a very 
 extensive view, which rather reminded me of that from 
 Monte Casino. Nuwara Eliya, situated in a plain, with 
 a pretty though small lake, the hills and woods which 
 surround it, and the chains of mountains stretching 
 away in all directions, form a magnificent panorama. 
 Clouds, which, however, rather enhanced the beauty of 
 the view, prevented the sea being visible. After 
 returning to the hotel (which, for the information of
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 127 
 
 future travellcTS, I may say was very dear), and resting 
 there through the heat of the day, I started to return 
 to Rambodde by the same road I had traversed the 
 previous evening. Ascending a beautiful glen to the 
 top of the pass, you have a fine view in both directions. 
 For seven miles the road descends along the side of 
 the hill, often in the midst of coflPee plantations. The 
 last few miles it is carried down the mountain by 
 terraces, and it is said by short cuts you may save 
 three miles. Being afraid of losing my way, as it was 
 getting dark, I lost much of this advantage. This 
 road may be cited to prove the benefits which British 
 government has conferred on Ceylon. At Rambodde 
 is a rest-house. These rest-houses are houses provided 
 by the Government every few miles, where lodging 
 may be obtained, and where, in the more frequented 
 places, food is provided for travellers. I expected to 
 have found it empty, but to my surprise it was crowded, 
 there being nine at dinner, including a happy couple 
 whom I had seen married at Galle the previous week. 
 A civil engineer present gave me much interesting 
 information about the country. I had walked twenty 
 miles during this day, and eighteen on the previous. 
 Though this would be nothing in Switzerland, even for 
 one who, like myself, is no walker, I thought it pretty 
 good in latitude 7°. 
 
 On the morning of the 2^th I took a stroll. Ram- 
 bodde is very beautifully situated on the side of a 
 mountain, surrounded by several fine waterfalls, and 
 commanding a view over a very extensive valley. I
 
 128 A YISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 returned bj mail to Gampola. These Cingalese mails 
 have the privilege, with which, in former days, Eng- 
 lishmen were familiar, that everything is bound to give 
 way to them as belonging to the Queen. It is curious 
 to see a red-turbaned Cingalese blow his horn to warn 
 the bullock-carts to make way for her Majesty's mail. 
 From Gampola I returned to Peradeniya, the station 
 next to Kandy, where I changed into the Colombo 
 train. I reached that city about half-past six, and 
 went to the International Hotel, a temporary building, 
 which is to be replaced by a more permanent one. It 
 had, however, a good supply of English newspapers — 
 a great luxury when you have been long out of the way 
 of news. Colombo, the capital of the island, has a 
 population of 97,129, made up of 55,215 males and of 
 41,914 females. That of Kandy consists of 10,922 
 males and 5959 females. The Cingalese are said to 
 destroy their female children, and these figures seem 
 to prove the truth of the statement, and would 
 appear to point to horrible moral evils. The whole 
 population of Ceylon is about 2,400,000, hardly more 
 than that of many collectorates in India. The prin- 
 cipal buildings of Colombo, including the Governor's 
 palace and the barracks, are situated on a promontory 
 running out into the sea, marked by a light-house. 
 On one side of this promontory is a large open space, 
 washed by the sea, called Galle Face ; on the other the 
 town extends, with a large lake behind it. In this 
 quarter are the cathedral and the law-courts. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 30th I enjoyed a bathe.
 
 THE STEAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 129 
 
 and afterwards saw a detachment of the 57th Regiment 
 disembark. What struck me was^ that the men who 
 had been two years in this hot, wet climate looked 
 more healthy than the troops who were just arriving. 
 It is true the barracks are very good, and everything is 
 done to promote the health of the soldiers; but it 
 would seem the climate is not as unfavourable as one 
 might expect. I lunched with Captain Parlby at the 
 officers' club, where were some officers of a regiment 
 proceediug to the Straits in consequence of the Malay 
 disturbances. 
 
 I then called on Sir Comara Swamy, a native 
 barrister here, who was most hospitable, driving 
 me to the Cinnamon Gardens and keeping me to 
 dinner. The party consisted of Sir Comara, who is a 
 Tamil, his nephew, who had been at Cambridge, and a 
 Cingalese gentleman. He complained that the dark 
 races were looked down upon by the white. I told 
 liim that I hoped this was not the case, at all events in 
 England ; that there are, of course, social distinctions, 
 but the fact that he had been knighted by the Queen 
 placed him above all untitled English gentlemen ; and 
 that if black-coloured men were looked down on in the 
 East, it was simply because the large majority were 
 uneducated, and not fitted for refined society. I was 
 sorry afterwards, at Bombay, to find a native merchant 
 excluded from the tahle d'hote, but this was done, not 
 by an English, but by a Parsee landlord, and when this 
 gentleman embarked on board the " Peshawur '' he sat 
 at table next the only passenger on board who had a
 
 130 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AIS'D IXDIA. 
 
 riglit to precedence in England. My host spoke liighly 
 of the disposition of the Governor to treat the natives 
 justly, and favourably of the planters as a body. 
 I was surprised to hear him say that he thought the 
 climate shortened the lives of the natives, and that they 
 did not live to be as old as people in Europe. 
 
 After a very short night, I started by the day-coach to 
 return to Galle in time for the boat to Madras. There is 
 a day as well as a night mail, which travels wonderfully. 
 With wretched screws of horses, they go the pace of 
 the old Cornish Quicksilver Mail — a mile in five minutes 
 and a half. But, though they travel well, they lose 
 an immense time in changing horses. The fresh ones 
 are never ready, and often jib going off. The distance 
 of seventy-two miles takes ten hours and a half; so 
 that, deducting half an hour for tiflBn, the pace is little 
 over seven miles an hour, though they drive at the rate 
 of eleven. The road leaves Colombo by Galle Face, 
 and then keeps near the sea, through a succession of 
 groves of cocoa-nut, crossing several rivers. In the 
 latter part it runs along the sea-shore. I was glad to 
 see several small churches, which seemed to belong to 
 the native Christians. But few women are visible in 
 Ceylon. The men have a curious practice of throwing 
 back their hair with combs, in the same way as little 
 girls sometimes do in England. We reached the 
 Oriental Hotel, Galle, at half-past four. At eleven at 
 night there was service at the church in commemoration 
 of the close of the year, where I was glad to see a large 
 congregation, including many soldiers. A service at
 
 THE STEAITS SETTLEMENTS AXD CEYLOX. 131 
 
 tlie conclusion of the year is striking, and tlie private 
 prayer in whicli the congregation engaged as midnight 
 approached was very solemn. 
 
 January 1, 1876, I spent in Galle, as the Calcutta 
 boat was advertised to sail, but she had not arrived. 
 Galle is very pretty, as the sea is fine and the 
 palm-groves look charming ; but the excessive heat 
 (the thermometer was 86°) makes it unpleasant. New 
 Year's Day is observed as a holiday. Both the Eng- 
 lish and the Presbyterian churches were open, and 
 seemed well attended, both by the white and the Burgher 
 population. The half-castes are here called Burghers. 
 I strolled about the town, made some purchases, and 
 in the afternoon Captain Lavie, of the Eoyal Artillery, 
 very kindly took me round the ramparts. Galle is a 
 peninsula, being surrounded on three sides by water. 
 He told me that you have to be careful in bathing, on 
 account of the sharks, which are numerous here. I 
 pitied a party of American fellow-passengers who had 
 remained for ten days in this stifling atmosphere, while 
 I had been up the country, where I was very fortunate in 
 not being interfered with by rain. Ceylon is a lovely 
 island, but the luxuriant vegetation shows the quantity 
 of rain which falls. I find by the Ceylon Almanac that 
 between the years 1870 and 1873 the rainfall varied in 
 Colombo from 63 to 107 inches; at Galle, from 67 
 to 77; at Kandy, from 69 to 97; at Nuwara Eliya, 
 from 75 to 107; and, at a hill station whose name 
 I forget, from 155 to 170. There are, however, places 
 in India where the fall is much greater. Newman's 
 
 K 2
 
 133 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Indian Bradshaw states that " hotel charges through- 
 out Ceylon are very high/^ With the exception of 
 Nuwara Eliya,, I did not find this to be the case. 
 Coach-fares, however, are high compared to England. 
 From Colombo to Galle is 22^ rupees, from Gampola 
 to Rambodde 10 rupees. The Government railway is 
 said to be paying well, and the planters are anxious 
 it should be extended further into the coffee dis- 
 tricts. On the morning of Sunday, the 2nd, the 
 " Surat,^' Captain Byrne, from Aden, arrived. The 
 arrangement is that the boats from Southampton to 
 Calcutta, and from Bombay to Shanghai, meet at Galle 
 to transfer passengers, and this transference is one of 
 the great complaints made in China against the P. 
 and O. The monthly mail-boat to and from Aus- 
 tralia also communicates here. The " Gwalior,^^ from 
 Bombay, owing to an accident to her machinery, 
 only arrived about two hours before we sailed. I went 
 on board the " Surat '' about half-past three, and 
 found a pleasant set of passengers en route for India, 
 including Colonel Denison, brother of the late Speaker. 
 On the 3rd we had some heavy tropical storms of 
 rain. We saw the mountains and sandy coast in the 
 morning, and passed some boats engaged in construct- 
 ing a lighthouse off Basses' Rocks. In the afternoon 
 we lost sight of Ceylon. It is said that " happy is the 
 country which has no history,'' and I do not recollect 
 that for more than a quarter of a century anything has 
 occurred to call public attention to the affairs of this 
 beautiful and interesting island. Under the govern-
 
 THE STRAITS SETTLEMENTS AND CEYLON. 133 
 
 meut of Lord Torrington, about 184-8^ some disturb- 
 ances occurred^ but since tliat period Ceylon has had 
 an uneventful history. It is to be hoped that its 
 material prosperity may continue and increase^ and 
 still more that^ under God's blessing, Christian missions 
 may be largely blessed. The distance from Galle to 
 Madras is 545 miles. The " Surat " is not a fast boat, 
 but on the night of the 4th she had to slow her engines 
 not to arrive before daylight.
 
 134 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 
 
 On waking on tlie morning of January 5tli I found we 
 were at anchor in Madras Roads. The town looked 
 imposing from the sea, though, with the exception of 
 Fort St. George, the principal buildings were not 
 visible. It is a striking sensation to be for the first 
 time in sight of that land whose conquest by a com- 
 pany of English merchants is among the most mar- 
 vellous events in the history of the world. The mind 
 turns to those great men, both soldiers and statesmen, 
 whose genius and energy have subdued this wonderful 
 country, and we should also do justice to those Chris- 
 tian heroes who have devoted and often sacrificed their 
 lives to proclaim the Gospel of peace to the vast heathen 
 population. 
 
 After breakfast we landed, passing through the surf 
 in boats sewed together, and rowed by ten coolies 
 each. The day was not rough, but, when it is so, 
 landing must be dangerous, and occasionally steamers 
 have had to leave without being able to put their pas- 
 sengers on shore. It is said to be a curious sight to 
 see a newly-arrived governor landing amid the rejoicing
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 135 
 
 of the population, and, with thunders of artillery, hauled 
 on shore from these boats in anything but a dignified 
 manner. The Prince of Wales wisely landed at the 
 southern port of Tuticorin, and entered Madras by 
 railway. Of all the wonderful displays I heard de- 
 scribed in connexion with his Royal Highnesses 
 journey, one of the most beautiful must have been 
 the lighting up of the surf at Madras. The great 
 southern capital of India consists of a number 
 of small towns and villages, twenty-three in all, 
 scattered over an area of twenty-seven square miles. 
 The principal are — Black Town, of which the first part 
 has a population of 65,000, the second of 75,000; 
 Triplicaine, with 60,000 -, and St. Thomas, with 41,000. 
 The population of the whole municipality is nearly 
 400,000. Black Town stands on the shore, with Fort 
 St. George to the south. The country behind looks 
 like a collection of bungalows placed in a great park. 
 
 I had gone to the Elphinstone Hotel, but, on calling 
 on the Duke of Buckingham, he most kindly invited 
 me to Government House, where I was treated with 
 unbounded hospitality by himself, his daughters, and 
 his staff. The most interesting spot in Madras is Fort 
 St. George, which, like the 39th Regiment, might claim 
 "the proud motto. Primus in Indus.'' Here the 
 Company had a trading-factory ; here Clive came out as 
 a clerk ; and here that great genius was developed 
 which was destined to lay the foundation of British 
 supremacy in India. It is still the seat of the Madras 
 Government, where the Council sits, and the official
 
 136 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AND INDI\. 
 
 business is transacted. Here I was introduced to Mr. 
 Huddlestone, the Secretary to the Government, who 
 gave me some very interesting information about the 
 land, revenue, tanks, &c. He is the third generation 
 of his family who has served in India, his father and 
 grandfather having both preceded him. The system 
 by which the sons of old Indians came to India, pos- 
 sessing a basis of knowledge of the country, was a 
 great advantage of the Company's rule — an advantage 
 we are in danger of losing under competition. Mr. 
 Huddlestone, however, did not seem to regret the 
 change, saying India had gone on improving both 
 under the Company and under the Queen. I was 
 shown the arsenal by two very distinguished officers. 
 Colonel Caddell and Colonel Campbell, the chiefs of 
 the Madras artillery. Here the old standards of many 
 native regiments are suspended, and the keys of Pon- 
 dicherry are shown. Colonel Caddell told me that he 
 received the Governor of Pondicherry here, and that 
 he said to him, " I wish you would give us up those 
 keys.'^ The Colonel replied, " We will do it with 
 pleasure on one condition, that you give us in I'eturn 
 the keys of Madras, which you keep in Paris." The 
 capture of Madras by the French, and of Pondicherry 
 by the English, took place in the wars between the 
 English and French East India Companies in the days 
 of Clive and Dupleix. The cathedral contains a monu- 
 ment to Daniel Corrie, one of the Company's chap- 
 lains, who laboured as a missionary in India, and died 
 the first Bishop of Madras. I visited the Museum, which
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 137 
 
 contains a large collection of Indian curiosities, tlie 
 public gardens and the people's park. At the Monegar 
 Choultry is a native charity, which provides for lepers, 
 incurables, and those who are afflicted in other ways, 
 and which appears a very useful institution. The 
 managers, like every one else here, are appointed 
 by the Government. It seems a pity that greater 
 efforts are not made to train the people in habits of self- 
 government. A bill was under discussion for the creation 
 of a municipal council for Madras, of which half were 
 to be elected and half nominated by the Govern- 
 ment, thus keeping the control with the Government. 
 
 Though the principal offices of administration are 
 at Fort St. George, Government House is situated 
 about a mile and a half inland. It is a large building 
 in Indian style, standing in a pretty park. The 
 walls ai-e adorned with portraits of governors and 
 native princes connected with the history of the Pre- 
 sidency. Dinner-parties are given in a large hall, with 
 its sides open to the air, which makes it very pleasant 
 in this climate. About six miles from Madras is Gindy, 
 where the country palace of the Governor is situated, 
 surrounded by beautiful gardens. It is a curious 
 arrangement that the Governor, having two large re- 
 sidences close to each other, is obliged to hire houses 
 for himself and his suite at Ootacamund, where he 
 spends great part of the year. It seems wonderful that 
 they do not sell Gindy, and buy a place at Ootacamund 
 with the proceeds, though perhaps it might not be 
 an easy place to dispose of. Near Gindy is Mount
 
 138 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 St. Thomas, so called from a tradition whicli, liow- 
 ever, is generally discredited, that the Apostle Thomas 
 was martyred here. Captain Hadaway, the Duke's 
 aide-de-camp, drove me here, and showed me the bar- 
 racks, which are very comfortable. On both the days 
 I was at Government House I met large parties at 
 dinner, including many of the leading men at Madras. 
 The Presidency was spared the horrors of the mutiny, 
 though some of my friends told me of the terror whicli 
 they experienced at the time. The Mohammedans are 
 not numerous in the south, and the Hindoo population, 
 as a rule, remained quiet. It is true the Bengal 
 sepoys revolted, influenced by the chupatties, but the 
 feeling thus engendered was taken advantage of by the 
 Mohammedans. The Hindoos for a long succession of 
 ages have been ruled by others, and they feel that the 
 English sway has been more peaceful and more bene- 
 ficial to them than those which preceded it. They 
 know that all they can expect is a change of masters, 
 and though they may not like the English, they are 
 not anxious to upset them. The Mussulmen, on the 
 other hand, have the angry feeling that we displaced 
 them from the rule of India. They resent our having 
 deposed a Mohammedan line of sovereigns, and though 
 they may not expect to re-establish one of their princes 
 at Delhi, they at least hate the nation which has de- 
 throned the Mogul. We sometimes hear it said that 
 our alliance with Turkey is a great assistance to us in 
 securing the allegiance of the Mussulmen of India. This 
 statement is made in England, but I never heard it sane-
 
 MADEAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 139 
 
 tioned by any one in India of whom I asked the ques- 
 tion. It is to be borne in mind that a large proportion 
 of the Mohammedans in India are Shiis, who hate the 
 TurkSj and it is not likely that they will be influenced 
 by sympathy for the Sultan, whom they do not regard 
 as the legitimate Caliph. 
 
 The great anxiety at Madras appeared to be the in- 
 efficient way in which the native army is officered. In 
 the days of the Company there used to be twenty-eight 
 officers to a native regiment_, who now are reduced to 
 seven. Even these are often not with the regiment, 
 and the Sepoys are left to two or three officers. In 
 case of war, vacancies would be filled up from the staff 
 corps, but officers pitchforked into a regiment cannot 
 possess the affections of the men, and the bond of attach- 
 ment which bound the Sepoy to his officer in the olden 
 time exists no longer. Complaints are made that the 
 services are all trying to get as much pay and as much 
 leave as they can, and that the present generation are 
 not possessed of that knowledge of India and that zeal 
 for the public service which distinguished their pre- 
 decessors. This may be partly owing to the increased 
 means of communication with home. When the voyage 
 from England to India was an afi'air of six, sometimes 
 of twelve months, men settled more completely 
 among the people, and acquired a knowledge of 
 native languages and native customs, such as now is 
 rare, but at least it is to be wished that the officials of 
 the present day should be alive to the immense re- 
 sponsibilities involved in our position.
 
 140 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 The Duke most kindly sketched me out a route 
 for seeing the antiquities of Southern India to the 
 greatest advantage in the time at my disposal. Before 
 my return he had gone with Lady Ann Grenville and 
 Lady Anna Gore-Laugton, on a visit to the Godavery, 
 to enable him to judge for himself of the public works 
 necessary in connexion with that river. The national 
 gratitude is eminently due to the Duke of Buckingham 
 for the great sacrifices which he and his family are 
 making in the public service. To most men the 
 position of Governor of Madras would be an object of 
 honourable ambition^ but to one who has filled the still 
 higher position of Secretary of State, with advantage 
 to his sovereign and with honour to himself, to say 
 nothing of his possessing the highest rank in the 
 Peerage, it can present no attractions. He is the first 
 statesman of cabinet rank who has accepted an Indian 
 appointment less than the Viceroyalty, while many 
 Viceroys have not attained to such a position in Eng- 
 land, The Government of Madras cannot add to the 
 dignity which under any circumstances he enjoys at 
 home, while to his daughters it must be an exile, but 
 the circumstance of his undertaking it must be of the 
 greatest benefit to India. It shows the princes and 
 people of the great Eastern Empire that British states- 
 men are ready, at every sacrifice of personal comfort, to 
 devote their lives to the promotion of the interests of 
 our great dependency. 
 
 On the evening of the 7th I left Madras with 
 introductions for the provinces from Captain Hankin,
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 141 
 
 the Governor's Secretary. Major Hobart, liis col- 
 league, who was going on the Goclavery expedi- 
 tion, very kindly saw me off at the station. The 
 Indian railway carriages ai'O exceedingly comfortable, 
 and you are able to sleep in berths as you do in 
 America. The fares are one-and-a-half anna per mile, 
 first class ; three-quarter anna, second class. As six- 
 teen annas make a rupee, it will be seen that first class 
 fares are a little dearer, second class a little cheaper 
 than in England, or rather were so while the rupee 
 was two shillings. The depreciation in silver will 
 change this, like a good many other things. The natives 
 travel third class, and in the North there is also what is 
 called "intermediate class." We dined at Arconum 
 Junction, where the line to Bombay is left, and passed 
 Arcot and Vellore, places memorable in the early history 
 of British India. Much as I had enjoyed Madras, the 
 heat had been so great that I had not slept well, and 
 finding it cooler in the train, I overslept myself. I was 
 not roused at the Erode Junction Station, where I 
 ought to have changed carriages for Trichinopoly. 
 At a little place called Watkallee, some twenty miles 
 beyond Erode, I had to wait for a train to take me 
 back. The mistake lost me the day for sight-seeing, 
 but I was not sorry to see something of India in a way 
 1 should not have done except by accident. Wat- 
 kallee is a small station on a plain, with distant hills in 
 sight. The roads around are good, having aloes for 
 hedges on either side. At Erode the South Indian 
 leaves the Madras Railway, running to Trichinopoly,
 
 142 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CIIINAj AND INDIA. 
 
 whence one line is carried to Tuticorin, another to 
 Negapatam. The fares on these lines are very cheap, 
 though they do not give return tickets. The ride 
 to Trichinopoly was through a country with pleasing 
 views, though it frequently looked parched. The trains 
 on this line travel slowly, stopping at every station. 
 The last part of the journey I fell in with some Brah- 
 mins, who talked good English, and were very civil, 
 bringing in a fiddler to play to me. The language of 
 this part of India is Tamil, but to the North of Madras 
 Telugu is spoken. The military language is Hindus- 
 tanee, which is generally used in the army. English 
 is generally understood, to a certain extent, by the 
 Madras servants. 
 
 We reached Trichinopoly in the evening, where 
 I was most hospitably entertained by Mr. and Mrs. 
 Sewell. Mr. Sewell is the collector of a district 
 comprising 5000 square miles, which is not con- 
 sidered a large one. At dinner I met several 
 oflBcers, who spoke strongly about the deficiency of 
 officers to the Native Army. The 9th was Sunday. 
 The principal service here is in the evening. It is 
 curious to be obliged to have punkas in church, but the 
 heat is great, and the ti*ying part of it must be that it 
 continues all the year round. Trichinopoly is asso- 
 ciated with the early history of Clive. It belonged to 
 a prince who was in alliance with the English, but 
 who was besieged by the French. Clivers heroic 
 defence at Arcot gave him time to resist them, and he 
 was ultimately relieved by the British leader. The
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHEKN INDIA. 143 
 
 palace at Tricliiuopoly had been handsomely fitted up 
 for the reception of the Prince of Wales^ and the town 
 was full of triumphal arches erected to welcome him. 
 His visit appeared to have given great pleasure to the 
 natives, though several towns in the Madras Presidency 
 were disappointed at not seeing him, as his visit was 
 cut short, owing to an alarm of cholera. It was gene- 
 rally said by the Europeans that this alarm was un- 
 necessary ; and I was told by Dr. Fox, a medical officer 
 in the army, who very kindly took me to the Rock, 
 that in fifteen years^ professional experience, he had only 
 known three or four Englishmen die from this com- 
 plaint. It certainly seemed extraordinary that the 
 Prince should have been advised not to visit the Neil- 
 gherries, the great health resort of South India. It 
 was often amusing to read the lucubrations of the 
 Lancet on the subject, which were copied into the Indian 
 papers. Still, it must be remembered, in justice 
 to the Prince^'s medical adviser, that at the time of his 
 visit cholera did, to a certain extent, prevail in the South 
 among the poorer natives ; and a sepoy who marched 
 past his Royal Highness at Madura died the same day. 
 Dr. Fox showed me a well-managed hospital, 
 the prison, and the sacred tank. The Rock Temple 
 is the great object of interest at Trichiuopoly. 
 The Rock rises to the height of 200 feet, with 
 temples both on the sides and on the summit, 
 the abode of sacred monkeys. It is ascended by 
 flights of steps, and commands a very extensive view 
 over immense plains, sometimes lost in the distance,
 
 1'14 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 often verdant with palms, with rocky hills rising in 
 different directions, while the sacred stream of the 
 Cavary flows beneath. In some respects it reminded 
 me of the view from Milan Cathedral, though the arid 
 tropical country is a contrast to the verdant plains of 
 Lombardy. Some two miles beyond the Rock, on the 
 other side of the river, is situated the great Temple of 
 Srirungam, covering an enoi-mous space. Seven walls 
 surround the great shrine of Vishnu, and between the 
 fourth and seventh a population of some 10,000 souls 
 resides. Standing on the roof which covers the inner 
 part of the temple, fourteen splendid pagodas are visible 
 rising round the sacred shrine. The scene, looking 
 over these magnificent pagodas, is very imposing, 
 especially from a tower near the gate. Eight great 
 horses, carved in stone, were partly hidden by prepara- 
 tions for a festival shortly expected. Notices were cir- 
 culated by Mr. Sewell on behalf of the Government, warn- 
 ing pilgrims that there was a risk of cholera in visiting 
 Srirungam. I was shown over the temple by the 
 native doctor of an excellent dispensary which is estab- 
 lished here, who told me he belonged to the Sudra caste. 
 I devoted the 10th to an excursion to Tanjore. 
 Starting very early, after a journey of about thirty 
 miles, I reached what Macaulay calls " the rich rice- 
 fields of Tanjore," where I was kindly entertained 
 by Mr. Burnell, the judge. Tanjore was the chief town 
 of the Chota kingdom of South India, and is first heard 
 of about 250 b,c. Chota, Chira, and Pandya were 
 then the three great kingdoms of the South. After 
 
 I
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 145 
 
 yarious fortunes and conquests by the Cera and 
 Pandya kingSj the Ohota kingdom revived about 900 
 A.D. Tanjore then became th,e chief city^ and in the 
 eleventh century the great temple there was built, and 
 the irrigation works of the district were finished. In 
 the beginning of the fourteenth century the Mohamme- 
 dans invaded South India, and the old Chota kingdom 
 fell. Soon after this the Tanjore province was conquered 
 by theTelugu sovereigns of Viyayanagara (nearBellary), 
 and a branch of the family established itself at Tanjore 
 in the latter half of the fourteenth century. These 
 kings are called the Telugu Nayakas, and built the 
 Tanjoi-e palace. About 1674 the Mahrattas conquered 
 Tanjore, and held it under the Mohammedan nabobs 
 of Arcot till 1799. The Mahratta family became ex- 
 tinct in the male line about 1855, when the town was 
 taken over by the East India Company, one of the 
 instances of that annexation policy of Lord Dalhousie* 
 which produced the mutiny. 
 
 The palace is very extensive, and contains two fine 
 halls for durbars. Some gorgeous jewelled dresses of 
 the Kajahs are shown. It possesses a very valuable 
 collection of Sanscrit MSS., of which Mr. Burnell, 
 who is one of the greatest of Sanscrit scholars, is 
 engaged in making a catalogue. The temple is dedi- 
 cated to Siva, and is very magnificent. Several pagodas 
 rise out of a vast enclosure, surrounded by a high wall. 
 Being open, it is seen to much better advantage than 
 some others. The inscriptions, both on the walls and 
 on the stones in the court, are very numerous. It 
 
 L
 
 146 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Beems a pity tliat care should not be taken to liave 
 them accurately copied, as they are suffering from time 
 and neglect, and much interesting and important his- 
 torical information might probably be obtained from 
 them. I was much interested in visiting Mr. BurnelFs 
 court. Both in it and in that of his sub-judge, who is 
 a Brahmin, it was curious to see turbaned Hindoos 
 pleading in English. The people have an uncommon 
 fondness for litigation, and those who practise show 
 great legal ability. The obstinacy with which disputed 
 causes are carried from one tribunal to another is re- 
 markable. I had an interesting conversation with the 
 sub-judge, who was a fine specimen of a Brahmin. 
 Mr. Burnell told me that he was a very good lawyer, 
 and, being a rich man, he liked English rule because it 
 protected his property. He spoke of the condition of 
 Hindu widows, who are not allowed to re-marry, and 
 said they continued in the families of their late hus- 
 bands, and were generally kindly treated. From 
 Englishmen I heard a different account of their con- 
 dition. Very young girls are often married to old 
 men, and left widows while little more than children. 
 In olden times they burnt themselves on their husband's 
 pyre. This we have most properly prevented. All 
 honour to the memory of Lord William Bentinck for so 
 doing. But we cannot control the Hindu law which 
 prohibits re-marriage. What wonder if these poor 
 creatures, seeing nothing before them but a blighted 
 existence and menial drudgery little removed from 
 slavery, take to evil courses. At tiffin I met Dr. Hoff-
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 147 
 
 mann, Professor of Sanscrit in tlie University of Madras, 
 and Dr. Hendon, Physician to the Pajah of Travancore. 
 The Rajah had just returned from attending the 
 Prince's Durbar at Calcutta. Dr. Hendon spoke highly 
 of Sir Madova Rao's administration of Travancore. I 
 was sorry to find among Europeans so much dis- 
 trust of the natives, and so great an indisposition to 
 confide any authority to them. I returned in the 
 evening to Trichinopoly, after a pleasant day, and on 
 the following morning after my visit to Srirungam 
 proceeded to Madura. It was at Trichinopoly that 
 Heber, one of the greatest of Indian Bishops and of 
 English Christian poets, closed his life. 
 
 The railways beyond Trichinopoly have a narrow 
 gauge of about 3^ feet. Some people doubt the wisdom 
 of this narrow gauge, and, considering the disadvantage 
 of changing carriages and waggons, and the level nature 
 of the country through which it is constructed, it may 
 be a question whether it was real economy. The line 
 to Madura runs through some pretty wooded hills, 
 which remind one of England. It passes Dindigul, 
 a fortress the English took from Tippoo Sahib. At 
 Madura I was very kindly received by Mr, Bliss, the 
 Collector, who I found came from my own neighbour- 
 hood in Wiltshire. Colonel Tait, who had been 
 arranging about the Prince's visit, and Dr. Jago, a 
 German ethnologist, were stopping with him. The 
 temple of Siva at Madura is said to be the finest in 
 South India, though it is not as large as Srirungam. 
 It was begun before the Christian era, and not finished 
 
 L 2
 
 148 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHIXA, AND INDIA. 
 
 till 1459. It is kept in excellent I'epair, and is dis- 
 tinguished by the elaborate carving for which the 
 natives are remarkable. It has a hall called the hall of 
 one thousand columns (the real number being 999) 
 several pagodas rising above it, and some fine corri- 
 dors. The goddess Menukshi seems the principal 
 object of worship here, and her figure is constantly 
 seen. Improvements and additions, particularly in 
 carved figures, are still made here. This was one of 
 the temples which in former times the English Go- 
 vernment took charge of. It was argued that we were 
 bound to respect the religious feelings of the natives, 
 and that in taking care that the funds belonging to the 
 temples were devoted to their legitimate object, we 
 gave no sanction to idolatry ; that the priests were apt 
 to misappropriate money committed to their hands ; 
 and that the supervision of these edifices by British 
 ofiicials noi only gave satisfaction to our subjects, but 
 was a security for the honest employment of the 
 revenues of large districts. On the other hand, it was 
 urged that it was wrong for the representatives of a 
 Christian nation to connect themselves with the de- 
 grading superstitions and immoral and often cruel 
 practices with which the Hindoo worship is inseparably 
 associated ; that we could not superintend such cere- 
 monies without leaving in the minds of the natives the 
 feeling that religion was a matter of indifference to us ; 
 and that it became us to withdraw from all complicity 
 with a system so opposed to our most solemn convic- 
 tions. This subject was long discussed in Leadenhall-
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 149 
 
 street, but at length the party long led by Mr. Grant, 
 supported by public opinion out of doors, carried the 
 day. It was determined that the Company should 
 relinquish all connexion with the temples, that the 
 revenues of the lands belonging to them should be 
 handed over to the Brahmins, and that, except in 
 deciding disputes which may come before them in their 
 judicial capacity, British officials should refrain from 
 all interference. This decision, arrived at in 1841, 
 does honour to the East India Company. 
 
 It is in the South that the great monuments of the 
 Hindoo religion are to be found. With the exception 
 of Benares, of which the temples, though very numerous, 
 are not large, the chief buildings of the North are 
 Mohammedan. Agra, Delhi, and Lucknow are Mo- 
 hammedan cities, but the tide of conquest left the reli- 
 gion of the great masses of the people of the South 
 unaffected. Here are to be found the magnificent 
 shrines of Vishnu and Siva, as it is remarkable that 
 temples are hardly ever dedicated to Brahma. 
 
 The palace is an enormous building, which has 
 latterly fallen into decay, but is now being fitted up 
 for government offices. Here, as everywhere else, one 
 saw the remains of the preparations for the Prince's 
 visit. The natives appear to have subscribed most 
 liberally to welcome with becoming splendour their 
 future sovereign. He stopped at a house which was 
 fitted up for him, close to a beautiful tank, erected by 
 the native princes. The walls ai'e of solid masonry, 
 and in the middle is an island surmounted by a pagoda
 
 150 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 iu the midst of palm-trees. Althougli tlie day in India 
 begins very early, yet the necessity of keeping in-doors 
 during the heat makes the time for sight-seeing limited. 
 You rise at daybreak (I was told regiments are on parade 
 at the earliest dawn), and take what is called a chota 
 hazi, which consists of tea, toast, and perhaps an egg. 
 You then go out, walking or riding, and return to break- 
 fast at nine or ten. You spend the day in the shade, 
 taking a heavy tiffin at two, drive out at five, and 
 return at dark, dining about eight. They say it is 
 necessary to live high in such a climate ; and of course 
 experience is the best guide, though 1 should have 
 thought the enormous tiffins de imp. They do not 
 indulge in siestas, for which in fact officials have no 
 time. A collector's verandah is crowded with peons 
 and other natives. The number of servants kept is 
 enormous. I was reminded of the remark of the Rev. 
 Henry Marty n on landing at Madras, that the Madi'as- 
 sees " seemed to think they were born to wait on the 
 English." It is wonderful at how cheap a rate the 
 natives seem to live. The wages of a groom are six 
 rupees a month, and many of the natives, those who 
 pull the punkas, for instance, get much less. On the 
 other hand, every horse has not only a groom but a 
 grass-cutter, a w^eman, often the wife of the groom, 
 who gets four rupees per month. 
 
 The collector of a district is a little king in it. He 
 is responsible for the collection of the revenues, and is 
 besides a magistrate, though for heavy offences a judge 
 is separately deputed for each district. His power is
 
 MADEAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 151 
 
 great over the condition of the district ; and Macaulay 
 said very truly, that the personal character of a collector 
 was of more importance to the happiness of probably a 
 million of natives than the difference between the best 
 and the worst Government we ever have in this country 
 to that of the people of England. The revenue system 
 in Madras is mostly the ryotwarree, by which the land 
 belongs to the ryot, subject to a rent to the Govern- 
 ment. Thus the collector comes in contact with the 
 ryots, or small native proprietors. A complaint is 
 made that Madras has to contribute more than its fair 
 share to the revenues of India ; and certainly the large 
 rent paid by the ryots is one of those things which are 
 to be regretted, but which in the present state of the 
 finances of India there seems no way to alter. Civilians 
 take their choice between the revenue and judicial 
 branches of the service, which are kept distinct. 
 
 The three gentlemen whom I here visited are all 
 Oxford graduates, and belong to the early days of 
 competition for the Indian civil service. When first 
 instituted, competition secured the best men from the 
 Universities for India. It is much to be regretted that 
 more recently a set of professional crammers have 
 coached their pupils to carry oflTa large number of these 
 appointments. Hence it is to be feared that the more re- 
 cently appointed civilians are not calculated to maintain 
 the high reputation and great traditions of the service. 
 
 I accompanied Dr. Jago and Colonel Tait in the 
 evening to see a temple procession. We drove into 
 the town in a bandy^ drawn by two bullocks,
 
 152 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 which travelled at a good pace, and met the 
 procession coming from the temple of Vishnu. It 
 was led off by two elephants, a large and a small, 
 the difference of their height forming a ridiculous 
 contrast. Musicians were seated on their backs, 
 beating their drums, while dancing-girls followed 
 behind. Then came the figure of the god seated in a 
 car and borne by men. Boys with torches surrounded 
 the procession, though it was full moon. Garlands were 
 presented to the spectators, and hung round their necks. 
 The idol was borne through the streets, which were 
 crowded with natives, and carried round a sacred tank, 
 after which we returned to the temple, where one of the 
 Nautch girls danced. The words of their songs are said 
 to be very indecent, but the dance itself appeared harm- 
 less enough. Still the whole ceremony was a mournful 
 exhibition of a nation wandering in heathen darkness. 
 I regretted that time did not permit my visiting Tin- 
 nevelly, which is situated in this part of India, where 
 the preaching of the Gospel has been so greatly blessed. 
 At half-past five on the morning of the 13th I left 
 Madura, Mr. Bliss accompanying me as far as Dindigul. 
 He told me that his district has nearly as large a 
 population and half as large an area as Ceylon. This 
 is an illustration of the great power wielded by the 
 Indian Civil Service. The government of Ceylon is 
 one of the most coveted appointments in the gift of the 
 Crown. At the present moment it is held by one who 
 for a long course of years was an influential member of 
 Parliament^ and who on quitting Westminster was
 
 MADEAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 153 
 
 made a Privy Councillor. An Indian collector is almost 
 unknown outside liis own presidency ; and yet probably 
 the collector has as much or more power to influence the 
 welfare and happiness of the population under his care. 
 It is true he is responsible to the Governor; but as 
 long as the revenue is regularly remitted and the 
 province is quiet^ this responsibility amounts to little. 
 The ryots, if they had cause for complaint, have not 
 the means of making themselves heard. The Governor 
 of Ceylon, on the other hand, is surrounded by Euro- 
 peans, and subject to the criticism of the press, which is 
 sure to bring to light any errors or shortcomings. 
 These considerations show the immense importance 
 of maintaining the high character of the Civil Service. 
 
 My route was over ground that I had pi-eviously tra- 
 versed. I lunched at Trichinopoly, and stopped for 
 the night at Erode, where I was fortunate enough 
 to fall in with Mr. Molesworth, the Government In- 
 spector of Railways, who gave me some interesting in- 
 formation about the Indian lines. 
 
 Next morning I agnin set off at half-past five for 
 Ootacamund, in the Ncilgherries, the great sanatorium 
 of the Madras Presidency. Following the main line from 
 Madras to Beypoor as far as Pothanoor junction, where 
 you change trains, and, passing Coimbatore, you reach 
 MetapoUium, where the rail ceases. The inhabitants of 
 Ootacamund advocate its continuance, and assert that 
 the heavy charges up the ghaut now paid by travellers 
 would constitute a good dividend on the outlay. Consi- 
 dering, however, the great engineering difficulties of a
 
 154 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 line up the mountain, I think the supreme government 
 are right to hesitate before they guarantee it. Driving 
 to Salar, at the foot of the Ghaut, I mounted a pony, 
 and rode for ten miles up a lovely pass. The sides are 
 decked with luxuriant vegetation, while you occasionally 
 catch glimpses of the immense plains below. When 
 clouds are floating about the tops of the mountains it 
 adds another charm to the scene. There are very large 
 coffee and some tea plantations among these hills. At 
 the beautiful village of Conoor, distinguished by large 
 barracks, the top of the pass is reached. Here I had 
 some trouble about ponies. I had paid a swindling 
 Mohammedan for ponies to Ooty, but the only one pro- 
 duced at Conoor had no shoes. Ultimately I bad to take 
 a carriage. At Conoor the tropical vegetation ceases, 
 and the road to Ootacamund (contracted to Ooty) is 
 comparatively dull, passing over bleak hills and downs 
 with little wood. Ootacamund is a straggling village, 
 or rather collection of villages, reminding one of the 
 little towns in the Cotswolds, which one visits in 
 hunting with the Duke of Beaufort. It is 7300 feet 
 above the level of the sea, and after the heat of Ceylon 
 and Madras it was delicious to reach a place where 
 one had fires instead of punkas, and was not obliged to 
 be up at daybreak if one wanted to walk or ride. 
 Here I was most kindly received by Mr. Cockerell, the 
 commissioner. The hospitality of India, and particu- 
 larly of Madras, is unbounded. The residents receive 
 travellers, and treat them with the greatest friend- 
 ship and kindness. In the more frequented cities of
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 155 
 
 the Nortlij owing to the great increase of travellings it 
 would be impossible to^ maintain the former system, 
 and hotels, more or less comfortable, are to be every- 
 where found ; but in the South the English maintain 
 the old standard of munificent hospitality. Mr. 
 Cockerell is commissioner, combining the duties of 
 collector and judge. He took me to dine with Colonel 
 Hankin, the brother of Captain Hankin, the Duke's 
 secretary ; and I remained with him the two following 
 days. He was one of the Company's writers, educated 
 at Haileybury, a race which is now rapidly leaving 
 India, though the leading Indian statesmen still belong 
 to it. He said there was a disposition, whenever he 
 retired, to make Ootacamund a second-class appoint- 
 ment. To this he objected. It would certainly seem 
 desirable to have a civilian of position in office at a place 
 where the Madras government pass much of the year. 
 I visited the government chinchona plantations, 
 under the care of Mr. Maclvor, which extend for a 
 considerable distance along the sides of the hills, and 
 then rode round the lake (which was low at the time), a 
 curious winding sheet of water. My host took me to 
 the Lawrence Asylum for soldiers' children, founded by 
 Sir Henry Lawrence, in which he is much interested. 
 It educates upwards of 300 boys, besides a neighbour- 
 ing school for sixty girls. The boys are brought up 
 to vai'ious trades, such as telegraphy, tailoring-, car- 
 pentering, &c. They are mostly half-castes, who 
 seem badly situated, as they are not received into 
 the Queen's army on the one hand_, or into the Native
 
 156 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 regiments on the other. There are obvious reasons 
 for their not serving in the regular army, for though 
 that army is much in India, yet it is hable to 
 have to serve in cold climates ; but it seems a pity 
 that the sons of soldiers, educated in a semi-military 
 school, should not be utilized for her Majesty^s service. 
 Mrs. Dene, the wife of the principal, told me they had 
 to send their children home to England to be educated. 
 If this is necessary in the healthy climate of the Neil- 
 gherries, it shows how indispensable it is in the 
 parched plains below. Separation from children must 
 be the great trial of Indian life, and England owes 
 a deep debt of gratitude to those who devote their 
 lives to the service of their country in an Eastern 
 exile. Mr. Dene, who is chaplain as well as principal, 
 has large farms and workshops connected with the 
 institution under his care. The production of chin- 
 chona, coffee, and tea is carried on largely among the 
 Neilgherries. Complaints are made that the taxation 
 is too great, and that it is a great hindrance to the 
 progress of the country. I was told that so large a 
 royalty was asked on a gold-mine that its working 
 had to be abandoned. I was further told that the taxa- 
 tion of the ryots is too heavy. In good seasons the 
 land tax may be reasonable enough, but in bad it is so 
 severe that it occasionally drives land out of cultivation. 
 Had time permitted, I should have liked to pro- 
 ceed from Ooty to Mysore, thence visited the fortress 
 of Seringapatam, and returned to Madras by the great 
 military station of Bangalore. To do this would have
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 157 
 
 involved correspondeuce with Bangalore and Mysore 
 about arrangement for horses, and it is necessary to 
 be very careful not to travel at night, as the road lies 
 through jungles, which are in places very unhealthy. 
 It was just before nay journey that the unfortunate 
 Lord Hastings had died at Tanjore. He had been 
 shooting on the Malabar coast, and had traversed a 
 district Avhich those who know the country regard as 
 deadly. This brought on the illness which detained 
 him at Tanjore, where he died. His death shows 
 the necessity of consulting those who are able to 
 advise as to the safety of any particular excursion 
 before undertaking it. With proper arrangements, I 
 understood the journey to Mysore might be undei'taken 
 with perfect safety. The great object is to see the 
 fortress of Seringapatam, the capital of Hyder Ali and 
 Tippoo Sahib, which remains much in the same state 
 as when three-quarters of a century ago it fell before 
 the prowess of Harris and Wellesley. 
 
 On the 1 7th I took leave of my hospitable friend, 
 and pushed down the ghaut to Metapollium. The 
 carriage-road is four miles longer than the mule-path, 
 and even more beautiful. It is terraced down the 
 ghaut, and goes through extensive coffee plantations. 
 For some time past coffee-planting has been exceed- 
 ingly profitable. I was told that the coolies on the 
 plantations were well treated, and that if such were 
 not the case it would be impossible for the planters to 
 get labour. This I was very glad to hear. After a 
 beautiful though dusty ride, during which I was occa-
 
 158 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 sionally hindered by meeting long lines of bandies, 
 drawn by bullocks, I reached Metapollium, where I 
 took the train for Madras. At Jollerputt, which is the 
 junction for Bangalore, we had a long detention in the 
 middle of the night, owing to a break-down on the 
 Bangalore line. 
 
 In the train I heard a complaint made of the 
 Viceroy, that he had tried to appoint a Brahmin 
 to a collectorship on the Godavery. The appointment 
 was not completed, but, according to my informant, 
 had it been so, the collector would have been murdered 
 by the Mohammedans, who hate the Brahmins. The 
 story seems to me problematical, as collectors are not 
 appointed by the Viceroy, but by the Governors and 
 Lieutenant-Governors of the provinces, but it illustrates 
 the feeling of English society in India. The great 
 statesmen who are at the head of affairs in India feel 
 the importance of conciliating the natives. They know 
 that 100,000 Englishmen cannot permanently keep 
 250,000,000 of Asiatics in subjection by the sword, 
 and that we ought not only to treat them with justice, 
 but to attach them to us, by enabling them to share in 
 the administration of public affairs ; that our motto 
 should be — 
 
 " Tros Tyriusque mihi nullo discriniine agetur." 
 
 On the other hand, the lower ranks of the service 
 maintain that, having earned their places by compe- 
 tition, certain advantages are guaranteed to them by 
 Act of Parliament, and that it is a want of faith to 
 them to allow the natives to share these advantages.
 
 MADEAS AND SOUTHERN INDTA. 159 
 
 This alienation between the English and the natives is 
 one of the gi^eat difficulties of the Government of India. 
 The caste system tends to keep up this alienation^ as, 
 when men decline to eat at the same table^ the difficul- 
 ties of keeping up friendly intercourse are increased. 
 It is sometimes made a reproach to the English that 
 we can do nothing without a dinner^ and of course 
 dinners are liable to abuse ; but in these days, when 
 excess in drinking is happily uncommon on such occa- 
 sions, dinners do much to bind together the different 
 classes of society in one common feeling of friendship. 
 Whether it be in the guilds of the City of London, or at 
 some provincial market town, you see noblemen of ancient 
 lineage and statesmen of parliamentary renown sitting 
 at the same table, associating and mixing with the people. 
 In India caste makes such a state of things impossible. 
 A Sudra may be a powerful chieftain, a Brahmin a 
 common labourer, but the Brahmin will not eat the 
 meat of the Sudra, while the Sudra will not share the 
 food of the Feringhee. Even Scindiah, though not a 
 Hindoo of high caste, when he entertained the Prince 
 of Wales at Gwalior, confined himself to entering the 
 banquet-hall after dinner, and proposing the healths of 
 her Majesty and the Prince. This is one of the great diffi- 
 culties of intercourse between Englishmen and Hindoos. 
 Early in the morning I reached Madras. The 
 Duke was absent on his journey to the Godavery, 
 but I was again most kindly entertained at Govern- 
 ment House by Lady Mary and Lady Caroline Grenville, 
 where I was fortunate enough to fall in with Sir Wil-
 
 160 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 Ham Gregory, whom I had known as M.P. for the 
 County Galway, and who is now Governor of Ceylon 
 In the afternoon we went out to Gindy, where the 
 gardens looked beautiful. We dined by the light of 
 hanging lamps under the trees, which made the scene 
 look striking. Sir William, Captain Hankin, and 
 Captain Hadaway started after dinner for an excur- 
 sion to the '^ Seven Pagodas." They kindly invited 
 me to accompany them, but I was obliged to return 
 to Madras to await the Calcutta steamer. The 19th 
 was my last day at Madras. I rose at half-past four, 
 and started at five for the Mount, with Captain Aylmer, 
 the Duke's aide-de-camp, and Captain Thackwell, aide- 
 de-camp to Sir W. Gregory, to a meet of the Madras 
 hounds. They meet at the earliest dawn to hunt 
 jackals. They had a good run, and killed, bu as I 
 unluckily came to grief, I did not see much of it. We 
 got back to breakfast, which Lady Mary had kindly 
 put off from nine to ten o'clock. This is an illustra- 
 tion of the Indian plan of taking the day's exercise 
 early in the morning, on tea and toast, and eating three 
 heavy meals during the day afterwards. 
 
 In the afternoon I took leave of my friends, who had 
 done so much to make me remember, not only Madras, 
 but Southern India with pleasure, and, taking a boat at 
 the pier, embarked on the " Bokhara," Captain W. D. 
 Anderson, which sailed at 5 p.m. At dinner-time the 
 towers of Fort St. George were being lost in the dis- 
 tance, and we took leave of the capital of Southern 
 India. During my stay I had travelled over 1300
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 161 
 
 miles. Ootacamund is three liundred and fifty-five 
 from Madras, Trichinopoly is ninety from Erode, 
 Tanjore is thirty-one, and Madura ninety-six from 
 Trichinopoly. The railway system of Madras seems 
 well managed. It is curious that in order to proceed 
 to Calcutta the choice is either to take the steamer 
 or to go round nearly to Bombay. One would have 
 thought that one of the first lines projected in India 
 would have been from Madras to Calcutta, but the 
 rivers running into the Bay of Bengal interpose such 
 great engineering difficulties that such a railway seems 
 to be a vision of the distant future. The want of good 
 harbours on the eastern coast of the peninsula is one of 
 the remarkable features of India which makes it difiicult 
 to communicate with populous districts. Hence the 
 frequency of disastrous famines in the eastern provinces. 
 The question I heard most commonly and most 
 anxiously discussed in Madras was the state of the 
 native army, and the question arises, not only in this 
 presidency, but in other parts of India, whether the 
 state of the sepoy troops is satisfactory. Ie every point 
 of view this subject is of the utmost importance. 
 Situated as we are, it is necessary to keep up a large 
 military force, while, on the other hand, in the state ot 
 the finances it is indispensable to keep our army esti- 
 mates as low as is consistent with safety. In 1857 the 
 Company's sepoys broke out in that fearful mutiny, 
 which was only suppressed at an immense sacrifice of 
 blood and treasure. Are the present regiments more 
 likely to be faithful to the Queen than their prcdcces- 
 
 M
 
 162 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 sors to the Company ? The Company's regiments were 
 fully officered. " We considered the regiment as our 
 home," said an old officer, who was discussing the 
 question, to me. Officers knew their men, talked to 
 them in their own language, took an interest in their 
 pursuits, and, in return, were beloved by the sepoys. 
 Complaints were made in the last years of the Company 
 that the number of English officers was unduly reduced. 
 It was said that the ablest and best officers were often 
 taken away from their regiments and placed in civil 
 employments. The mutiny ensued, and the fact 
 that a conspiracy which must have been known 
 to thousands and tens of thousands should have 
 been kept a secret from the English is certainly 
 one of the most astounding, if not the most astounding 
 event in history. The Sicilian Vespers is the only 
 event to which it can be compared, and the Sicilian 
 Vespers was a conspiracy comparatively on a very 
 small scale. It behoved the British Government to 
 consider how far a native army was required, and what 
 were the best races of Hindostan from which to recruit 
 it. There can be no question that a certain proportion 
 of native troops are necessary. The debilitating effect 
 of the climate of India on European constitutions makes 
 it important to save the English soldier every exertion 
 which is not indispensable. English regiments should, 
 as much as possible, be kept in reserve at hill stations, 
 and, when employed from necessity in the plains, 
 they should be spared exposure to the heat. Hence a 
 native army is an indispensable necessity. Moreover, 
 
 I
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 163 
 
 it must be remembered that the sepoy had stood 
 shoulder to shoulder with the Englishman in many a 
 well-fought field of fame — from Plassy to Goojerat ; from 
 the days of Lord Clive to the days of Lord Gough. 
 The feeling of the sepoy is well described in a memo- 
 randum which was shown me by a gallant and distin- 
 guished ofl&cer, which speaks of *^ his hereditary 
 reverence for the British grenadier, who, though utterly 
 foreign to him in every thought and habit, he regarded 
 habitually as the very impersonation of power in war 
 — ' iiYi'piijer iracundus' — inexorable and fierce ; not to be 
 handled or approached in time of peace without danger 
 of insult or violence ; consuming sacred cattle by herds 
 and intoxicating liquors by the gallon : but all this to 
 be condoned for his lordly bearing in the day of battle, 
 when to storm batteries in the teeth and swarm over 
 intrenchments vainly defended by the flower of Indians 
 chivalry was known to be child^s play to the dreaded, 
 but, in this respect, honoured British soldier/' Such 
 was the native feeling of former days, and this feeling 
 is not likely to be lessened by the heroism with which a 
 handful of Englishmen held India against the power of the 
 mutineers, and vindicated what Macaulay, writing many 
 years earlier, graphically described as " the irresistible 
 energy of the imperial people, the skill against which the 
 bravest troops of Hindostan were helpless as infants, the 
 discipline which had so often triumphed over the frantic 
 straggles of fanaticism and despair, the unconquerable 
 British courage which is never so sedate and stubborn as 
 toward the close of a doubtful and murderous day." 
 
 M 1
 
 164- A VISIT TO JAPAX, CHIXA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 A certain number of native troops being re- 
 quiredj the question arose, from what portions of 
 India they could be most advantageously raised. 
 The Madras army was faithful to us in our troubles, 
 and it would have seemed both policy and justice that 
 they should constitute part of the native army which 
 was retained. Nevertheless complaints have been 
 made that regiments which had loyally stood by us in 
 the mutiny were disbanded, and the sepoys insufficiently 
 compensated. Our prestige in India has been greatly 
 dae to our scrupulous observance of faith, and it is 
 most undesirable that those soldiers who have been 
 faithful should suffer for the faults of their unfaithful 
 comrades. The Government, however, seems to prefer 
 natives of Northern India, the seat of the mutiny, to 
 those of the South. As regards the hardy tribes who 
 inhabit the vicinity of the mountains which bound India 
 on the north, it is very natural that our military autho- 
 rities should prefer them. The Sikhs, Pathans, and 
 Goorkhas are among the most warlike of mankind, and 
 an army of such men, led by a Lake or a Wellington, 
 might not unreasonably be expected " to go anywhere 
 and do anything." The military spirit of these men 
 has been described by the poet, — 
 
 My father was an Affghan, he came from Candahar, 
 He rode with Mirza Ameer Khan in the great Mahratta war, 
 From the Deccan to the Himalay, five hundred of our clan, 
 They ask'd no leave of king or chief, as they swept through 
 Hindustan. 
 
 They were Jaithful to us in the mutiny, and their
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. lt>5 
 
 fidelity enabled Lawrence to make the Punjaub the 
 basis of operations against Delhi. It must, however, 
 be borne in mind that their connexion with us is of 
 comparatively recent date, and that many now living 
 recollect their gallant resistance to the British arms. 
 There is another consideration which may make them 
 less disposed to acquiesce in her Majesty's rule than 
 might have been the case in former days. To such 
 men war is the occupation of their lives. Peace is an 
 ignoble and distasteful waste of life. The great object 
 of England is to maintain, peace, quiet, and order in 
 India, and it may very possibly be that what is our 
 Christian duty and our great merit in the eyes of 
 civilized mankind may appear a great fault in the view 
 of our military retainers. In the present state of the 
 revenue it is most important, wherever it is possible, 
 to contract expenditure, and our military expenditure 
 is the heaviest item in the budget. The number of 
 British regiments cannot be reduced consistently with 
 the safety of our position, and it follows that the only 
 reduction is to be sought in the native army. Our 
 general military policy would seem to be that we should 
 maintain in healthy stations and at points of strategic 
 importance a sufficient number of European troops to 
 suppress any outbreak which may occur, that we should 
 keep for police and other purposes as many native regi- 
 ments as may be required, and that by a sufficient 
 number of British officers, who should devote themselves 
 to their men and study their habits and feelings, we 
 should endeavour to attach these regiments to our
 
 166 A VISIT TO JAPA^r, CH1^'A, AXD INDIA. 
 
 service. ^\Tiat is the policy "we pursue ? As regards 
 tlie nutaber of Queen regiments in India probably no 
 complaint can be made, but what is to be deplored is 
 that we maintain a very large, probably a needlessly 
 large^ native army^ often drawn from those races of our 
 subjects on whom we can least depend, that we arm 
 them with the best rifles, and leave them without the 
 guidance of European officers. We are influenced by the 
 success of Colonel Jacob's celebrated Scinde horse and 
 other distinguished irregular corps, but it must be borne 
 in mind that all men are not Jacobs, Hodsons, and 
 Napiers, and that because a few remarkable men have 
 attained boundless power over the wild natures of the 
 native troops, it does not follow that ordinary mortals 
 will exercise similar influence. The best officers seek 
 employment on the staff corps. It is from this body 
 that the best appointments are filled, and to it aspiring 
 young men look for promotion. Regimental service is 
 too often left to those of inferior ability, and the most 
 absurd stories are told of the deficiencies of the com- 
 manders of sepoy battalions. I heard of one case in 
 which a major unable to ride kept his regiment waiting 
 while he walked his horse to the position he had to 
 take. Can we expect that a people who reverence phy- 
 sical superiority will respect such a man ? And I was 
 told such cases are not uncommon. The complement 
 of officers professes to be seven, but in many cases it is 
 reduced to three, and these frequently either elderly or 
 invalids. The discipline of the regiments is entrusted 
 to the native officers, to the subahdars and jemadars.
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHEEX INDIA. 167 
 
 If these were native gentlemen, and if vre took this 
 means to attach the old families of India to our rule, 
 there might be much to be said for the system, but I 
 was informed that they were generally soldiers pro- 
 moted from the ranks, who did not enjoy in any marked 
 degree the confidence and respect of their comrades. 
 Such was the account I heard of the native army from 
 officers I met both in society and in travelling, and the 
 general opinion seemed to be that it was most unsatis- 
 factory. In the event of a regiment being ordered on 
 service, officers from the staff corps are attached to 
 it, but they come new to their men, and the bond of 
 attachment which bound the Company's sepoy to his 
 leader exists no longer. 
 
 It is true that the present state of the native army 
 is described as satisfactory by the great authority of 
 Lord Napier of Magdala. I am not aware how far 
 that distinguished general has pubHcly stated his views, 
 but every one believed that they are not merely the 
 utterances which a high official, placed in a position of 
 great responsibility, is bound to promulgate, but the 
 genuine opinions derived from his large experience. 
 At the same time I was told that he advocates making 
 native gentlemen officers. This would be a great boon 
 if properly carried out. If they were treated as gentle- 
 men bearing her Majesty's commission, on an equahty 
 with Englishmen, it would do much to establish our 
 position. What is to be feared is that the snobbism of 
 low-class EngHshmen might make their position un- 
 pleasant. Lord Napier is probably influenced by his
 
 168 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA,, AND INDIA. 
 
 own experience, and his power over the native soldiers 
 is unrivalled. He has served for forty years with 
 them, speaks their languages, knows them well, and 
 trusts them. Whenever we have had first-class officers 
 like him, who have won their confidence by kindness 
 and their admiration by superiority in warlike exercises, 
 we have had no difficulty. 
 
 Our course would seem to be to reduce the native 
 army to the number absolutely requii*ed, and to take 
 care that those troops are properly and efficiently offi- 
 cered. This would ultimately be a great saving to 
 the Exchequer, though for the present the economy 
 would probably not be felt. It would be necessary to 
 pension the disbanded sepoys, as it is not only right 
 as a matter of justice, but essential as a matter of policy, 
 that they should be treated not only fairly but liberally, 
 while the number of officers would have to be increased. 
 Anything would be better than our present wasteful 
 system, which maintains a large and expensive body of 
 troops which we take no measures to attach to our- 
 selves and to enlist in our interests. 
 
 Another subject I heard discussed was the system 
 which keeps the Madras and Bombay armies separate, 
 with separate commanders-in-chief. It is a part, though 
 not an essential part, of the system which maintains 
 distinct governments for Madras and Bombay. The 
 command of these armies is a military question which 
 should be decided by military considerations, though I 
 was told by officers whose prepossessions would be 
 likely to be in favour of the present system, that one
 
 MADRAS AND SOUTHERN INDIA. 169 
 
 commander-in-cTiief would be sufficient, and that the 
 three armies might with advantage be amalgamated. 
 Probably the Horse Guards are in favour of the present 
 plan, as these appointments give the opportunity of 
 rewarding distinguished officers, a consideration which 
 deserves attention. The army is obviously a greatly 
 underpaid profession, and it is only right that the 
 Duke of Cambridge should wish to retain every means 
 of compensating the pecuniary losses to which military 
 men are subjected. But if great appointments are 
 pi'eserved in India, not for the sake of India, but for 
 the sake of the British army, it follows that the ex- 
 pense should be borne, not by the Indian, but by the 
 Imperial Exchequer. There is far too great a tendency 
 to saddle India with charges which ought to belong to 
 England. Indian finance is not scrutinized by Parlia- 
 ment, and items which might give rise to discussion are 
 too often transferred to it. These remarks suppose 
 that the amalgamation of the three Indian armies misfht 
 be carried out and an economy thereby effected. If, 
 in the opinion of those competent to form a judgment 
 on military questions, the present system is necessary, 
 of course the charge legitimately falls on the Indian 
 revenue.
 
 170 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 
 
 The distance from Madras to Calcutta is 780 miles, 
 whicii we accomplished in sixty -nine hours, the short- 
 est run one of the officers of the " Bokhara ^^ said he ever 
 remembered. The sea was very calm, and we were for 
 two days out of sight of land. The P. and 0. run their 
 steamers alternate weeks direct from Southampton to 
 Calcutta, communicating at Point de Galle with the 
 China and Australian boats. This is a great convenience 
 to the people of Calcutta, who are thus able to take 
 their families home without a change. The voyage 
 was rather dull, as most of the passengers had left, and 
 there was hardly any one on board, A magnificent 
 swell, attended by a most obsequious native servant, sat 
 next the captain at table, whom I supposed to be a 
 commissioner or some such great man. Judge of my 
 surprise and amusement when I discovered that he was 
 only the pilot who goes to Madras in one ship, and 
 returns to Calcutta in the next, to guide the steamer 
 through the Hooghly. The appointment of pilots to 
 the Hooghly was part of the patronage of the old-
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 171 
 
 directors^ and this man owed liis situation to Sir James 
 Hogg. On getting up on the 22nd, I found we were 
 inside the light-ship at Sandheads, and sailing among 
 buoys, though we could hardly see land. The mud- 
 banks gradually increased till at last we sailed between 
 low banks and found ourselves in the Hooghly, the most 
 western of the mouths by which the Ganges discharges 
 itself into the Bay of Bengal. Mud-banks became 
 gradually converted into low-lying land covered with 
 tropical trees. The scenery is rather iuteresting, but 
 those who went up the Ganges by sailing-boat in the 
 olden time must have found it very tame. About two 
 we arrived at Garden Reach, where the steamer stopped, 
 near which is the palace of the ex-king of Oude. The 
 domes of Calcutta were imposing from the steamer, 
 and as I drove toward this City of Palaces, the magni- 
 ficent buildings looked very striking. I took up my 
 quarters at the Great Eastern Hotel, close to Govern- 
 ment House, where I spent Sunday. I attended St. 
 John's Church, where I saw a tablet to Daniel Corrie, 
 " first Bishop of Madras, and first Archdeacon of 
 Calcutta, the friend and fellow-labourer of Henry 
 Martyn.'' As Martyn's life was almost the only book 
 I had with me in my travels, I was particularly in- 
 terested in this tribute to these holy men. In the after- 
 noon I walked across the Mcidan to the cathedral, where 
 are memorials of Bishops Heber and Wilson, the latter 
 of whom is buried there. A native service was going 
 on there, llie congregation was small, but it was cause 
 for thankfulness to see service conducted in the ^rcat
 
 172 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 cathedral of Calcutta for a native congregation in a 
 native language by a native clergyman. The cathedral, 
 near which is the Bishop's palace, is situated on one 
 side of the Meidan, a large open space which forms a 
 magnificent park, on the other side of which runs the 
 river, near which Fort William is situated. Fort Wil- 
 liam, so closely associated with the history of India, is 
 now converted into barracks. Government House over- 
 looks the Meidan, while on the other side, the town ex- 
 tends up the river, on the opposite side of which, Howrah, 
 where is the terminus of the East Indian Railway, is 
 situated. The principal buildings surround Dalhousie 
 Square, a fine space with a garden and a tank in the 
 centre. Statues to Lords Hardinge and Lawrence, and 
 one recently erected to poor Lord Mayo, stand on the 
 Meidan near Government House, Hardinge and Mayo 
 being on horseback. Chouringhee, the fashionable 
 quarter of Calcutta, is on the north side of the Meidan. 
 On Monday, the 24th, I called on the Viceroy (Lord 
 Northbrook), the Bishop, and Sir Richard Temple, late 
 Finance Minister, and now Lieutenant-Governor of 
 Bengal. On my taking an introduction to the latter 
 from Sir Charles Wingfield, he most kindly invited 
 me to stay with him at Belvedere, where I was hospi- 
 tably entertained by Lady Temple and himself during 
 the remainder of my stay. Belvedere, the residence 
 of the Governor of Bengal, and originally the villa of 
 Warren Hastings, is situated at AUipore, beyond the 
 Meidan, near Garden Reach, where the steamers land 
 their passengers. I dined with Dr. Milman the Bishop,
 
 CALCUTTA AND BKITISU TOWEK IN INDIA. 173 
 
 where I met Mr. Aitclicsou, tlie most distinguished of the 
 Civil Service since the competition system was inaugu- 
 rated. The Bishop appeared in health, and received 
 his guests with genial hospitality, but it was within 
 two months, and on the day before I reached home, 
 that I heard at Dijon that this excellent prelate had 
 been called to his rest. His death shows the immense 
 importance of that enormous diocese being divided. 
 The early bishops, including the devoted Heber, died 
 in quick succession, but Dr. Wilson held the see for a 
 quarter of a century, and Dr. Cotton died from an 
 accident. On Bishop Wilson's appointment the dio- 
 ceses of Madras and Bombay were separated, but since 
 that time the Punjaub and other provinces have been 
 added to the empire, and require episcopal supervision. 
 The population of the three dioceses as given me by 
 Mr. Jacob, the Bishop's chaplain, are, Calcutta, 
 140,000,000; Madras, 40,000,000; Bombay, 20,000,000. 
 Of course these figures compi-ise the vast Mohammedan 
 and heathen population, but considering that the number 
 of Europeans resident in a dis'rict bears a relation to 
 the population, and considering also that the duty of the 
 Church to proclaim the Gospel to these teeming mill ions, 
 they give some idea of the comparative responsibilities 
 of the three dioceses. Besides, the natives respect us 
 in proportion as they see us in earnest in our own 
 religion. The Bishop told me the native princes had 
 always treated him with great kindness, and on one 
 occasion brought their children to receive his blessing. 
 It is obvious that the work is too great for a single
 
 174 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 bishop. Two missionary bishops have been conceded 
 to Madras, and it certainly seems right that something 
 should be done to relieve Calcutta of the North- 
 Western part of the see. Bishop Milman has fallen a 
 sacrifice to his labours, and since his death an effort 
 is being made to found a bishopric at Lahore, as a 
 memorial to him. This is a most important object, and 
 good as far as it goes, but it may well be doubted if 
 the diocese of Calcutta will not still remain considerably 
 too large. 
 
 On the 25th Sir Richard Temple took me to the 
 Legislative Council of the Governor- General, which is 
 open to the public, though the privilege is not largely 
 availed of, as there were only one other stranger and 
 two reporters present. The question under discussion 
 was a Bill for Coolie emigration into Burmah. It was 
 interesting seeing these great men who rule India, and 
 to whose devotion to the public service we owe so much. 
 The Council Chamber is surrounded by portraits of 
 governors-general and other distinguished statesmen, 
 and here hangs the celebrated purtrait of Warren 
 Hastings, immortalized by Macaulay, with " Mens sequa 
 in arduis " above it. 
 
 I lunched with Sir Andrew and Lady Clark. Sir 
 Andrew resigned the government of the Straits Settle- 
 ments to become Minister of Public Works for India, 
 and his removal at a critical moment was one of the 
 causes which led to the Perak complications. It was 
 only natural that he should accept an appointment 
 which presents unequalled attractions to an officer of
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 175 
 
 the Royal Engineers, which is, in fact, the blue riband 
 of his profession; but great blame attaches to the 
 authorities in Downing Street for so regulating their 
 patronage as to lead to such deplorable results. At 
 tiffin I met Captain Bedford, commander of the 
 " Serapis," which was then lying in the river, having 
 brought the Prince from Madras, and Mr. Eden, Com- 
 missioner of Burmah. Mr. Eden, who is now one of 
 the most prominent statesmen in India, was honour- 
 ably distinguished in 1858 for his assertion of the 
 rights of the ryots against the indigo-planters. He 
 decided that when a planter made an advance to a ryot 
 to enable him to grow indigo, and the ryot subse- 
 quently declined to grow it, the planter, though he 
 could sue for his money, could not compel the culti- 
 vation of the crop. His view of the law is now admitted 
 to be correct, but at the time the indigo-planters were 
 furious. There was a violent controversy, and the then 
 Governor of Bengal made a minute removing Mr. 
 Eden. This, however, was on the eve of his own 
 retirement, and his successor, Sir John Peter Grant, 
 upheld the decision. The question is now settled, and 
 the rights of the ryots are acknowledged, thanks to the 
 firmness of Eden and Grant; but this episode shows 
 the difficulties encountered by the Civil Service in 
 maintaining the rights of the natives against the exac- 
 tions of mercenary Europeans. One great charge 
 against the East India Company used to be that they 
 discouraged the residence in the country of any Eng- 
 lishmen not in their service. This policy was cari'ied
 
 176 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 too far; but its justification was, that such emigrants 
 were apt to oppress the ryots, without reference to 
 considerations either of justice or policy. At dinner at 
 Belvedere I met Mr. Bayley, a very old member of the 
 Indian Government. 
 
 Next morning Sir Richard showed me a memorandum 
 on the finances of India, in reply to Fawcett^s great speech 
 of 1872, at which time he was Finance Minister. Vir- 
 tually it was a great tribute to the ability of Fawcett's 
 speech. A member of Parliament who has never resided 
 in India, whatever his talent and whatever his industry, 
 is sure to fall into error ; but when the Professor^s state- 
 ments come to be examined by the greatest statesmen in 
 India, the errors turn out to be trifling. In the afternoon 
 he took me to a party at Sir William Muir's, formerly 
 Governor of the North-West Provinces, and now 
 Finance Minister, where we met Mr. Hobhouse, the 
 legal member of Council, and Sir Richard Meade, 
 lately on the Baroda Commission, and now about to 
 proceed as Resident to Hyderabad. I should think he 
 would have a difficult; task before him, as Lord North- 
 brook's behaviour to Sir Salar Jung in doubting his 
 statement that the health of the Nizam prevented his 
 meeting the Prince of Wales was wanting in courtesy 
 to that distinguished native statesman, and calculated 
 to sow the seeds of future trouble in that part of the 
 country. At Hyderabad, as at Baroda, Lord North- 
 brook sows the wind and leaves Lord Lytton to i-eap 
 the whirlwind. Many of the politicians of Calcutta 
 advocate the abolition of the separate governments of 
 
 I
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 177 
 
 Madras, and more particularly of Bombay, and the 
 reduction of tlie rulers of these Presidencies to the 
 rank of Lieutenant-Governors. The Lieutenant-Go- 
 vernor virtually exercises the same civil power as a 
 Governor, but he has no control over the army, and is re- 
 sponsible to the Viceroy, while the Governors of Madras 
 and Bombay correspond direct with the Secretary of 
 State. The question is one of much importance, but 
 it is one on which it is difficult for any one who has 
 not been behind the scenes either in India or in 
 Downing Street to form an opinion. It is said that 
 the independent jurisdiction of the Governor of Bom- 
 bay (I was informed by high authority that the 
 Government of Madras had always been very loyal to 
 that of Calcutta) led to conflicting measures being taken 
 and to serious inconvenience. On the other hand, the 
 people of Bombay, both official and private, are jealous 
 of the capital. Probably the wonderful progress of 
 the western city of recent years has led its inhabitants 
 to aspire to the first position in India, and, at all 
 events, to be anxious to retain the privileges of a sepa- 
 rate Government, with a Governor and Council. The 
 suggested change would no doubt be economical ; but 
 there is one consideration that should not be lost sight 
 of, and which is, that if Lieutenant-Governors were sub- 
 stituted for Governors, English statesmen would cease 
 to take part in affairs in India except in the character of 
 Viceroys. It tends to keeping up the ties between the 
 two countries that English statesmen of first-class rank 
 should occasionally go out to India, and it becomes us 
 
 M
 
 ] 78 A "VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 to hesitate before we alter a system which insures such 
 a result. It is a great advantage to have an appoint- 
 ment which the Duke of Buckingham, an ex- Secretary 
 of State, is willing to accept; and though ill-health 
 has prematurely closed the public career of the late 
 Governor of Bombay, Sir Seymour Fitzgerald, yet, if 
 we look back to the Parliament of 1859, we shall 
 recollect that, next to the present Premier and the 
 present Lord Chancellor, he was the most prominent 
 member of the Conservative party, and the question of 
 his holding high Cabinet rank seemed to be simply the 
 question of Lord Derby returning to power. A system 
 which secures such men for India should not be altered 
 on light grounds. I dined at a large party at Govern- 
 ment House, where the rooms are very splendid. 
 
 Early next morning the Governor, who has been 
 most kind in showing me 'Hhe Capital of Asia,^^ of 
 which he is naturally very proud, took me a ride to 
 the bridge not long since constructed across the 
 Hooghly. We passed the site of the Black Hole, 
 where that horrid crime was perpetrated which ulti- 
 mately led to the subjugation of Bengal by the Eng- 
 lish, of which no vestige remains. The wharves 
 which have been constructed along the banks of the 
 river are very striking, and do great credit to the 
 Bengal Government. They are crowded with large 
 ocean-going steamers, which, since the opening of the 
 canal, carry on the commerce between Great Britain 
 and India. To make these wharves many of the 
 ghauts down which the people go to bathe in the sacred
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 179 
 
 Ganges had to be moved. The Hindoos, however, 
 seem to be very reasonable, and so long as accom- 
 modation is provided for them to perform their ablu- 
 tions, they do not object to alterations. The buildings 
 of Calcutta are very splendid, and the administration 
 of each succeeding Governor of Bengal is distinguished 
 by some improvement. The University is a fine 
 building, and the hospitals seem well managed. The 
 medical schools, both of Calcutta and Madras, seem to 
 be doing a very useful work in educating natives to 
 the practice of the profession. 
 
 Mr. Colvin, private secretary to Sir Louis Malet, was 
 stopping at Belvedere. Sir Louis Malet was staying at 
 Government House, and was understood to have come out 
 about some question between the English and the Indian 
 Government. Rumour said the English Government 
 wanted to reimpose the income-tax ; but when I reached 
 Bombay the matter was explained by the publication 
 of the correspondence between Lord Salisbury and 
 Lord Northbrook about the duty on Manchester goods. 
 Sir Louis Malet at this time was ill and unable to 
 attend to business, and had shortly afterwards to return 
 home. Another gentleman I met at Belvedere was 
 Mr. Metcalfe, nephew of the great Lord Metcalfe, who 
 had come to Calcutta in consequence of an appre- 
 hended scarcity of food, and who had been actively 
 engaged in the relief of the famine of 1873-4. In 
 regard to that famine, the Indian Government — par- 
 ticularly the Viceroy, Sir George Campbell, and 
 Sir Eichard Temple — have been blamed that tlicir 
 
 N 2
 
 180 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 measures for its relief were not sufficiently influenced 
 by considerations of economy ; that more money was 
 spent than turned out to be necessary. To-my mind 
 this is the highest praise that can be awarded them. 
 Economy is everywhere and always an admirable 
 thing, and in India, in the critical state of the revenue, 
 it is an indispensable virtue ; but when famine threatens, 
 when the lives of millions are at stake, it must give 
 way to the urgent necessity of saving human life. 
 With the difficulties which have to be encountered in 
 India from deficiency of communication, it was the 
 imperative duty of the Government to provide on the 
 larecest scale for the most unfavourable continorencies. 
 What would have been said if too little provision had 
 been made, and if a large sacrifice of life had been the 
 consequence ? If the Viceroy erred at all, he erred on 
 the right side, and his error does him honour. This is 
 evident when we consider the fearful history of pre- 
 vious similar visitations. Whatever the faults of Lord 
 Northbrook's administration, his conduct during the 
 famine deserves the gratitude both of the country he 
 represented and of the country which he ruled. 
 
 In the afternoon Lady Temple had a garden party, 
 where I met Sir William Muir, Sir Eichard Meade, Sir 
 Douglas Forsyth, Sir Eichard Garth, late M.P. for 
 Guildford, and now Chief Justice of India, and sevei'al 
 natives of distinction, including Eajah Narendra Ki'isna, 
 a member of the Viceroy's Council, and Baboo Kris- 
 lodas Pal, a member of that of the Lieutenant-Governor 
 of Bengal. With both these gentlemen I had an
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 181 
 
 interesting- conversation. Rajah Nareudra Krisua is a 
 Brahmin by caste, and a large zemindar. To my 
 surprise he seemed utterly ignorant of the ryotwaree 
 system of Madras, and unable to comprehend how any 
 province could go on without a permanent settlement. 
 These wealthy zemindars are much opposed to the 
 income-tax. On Krislodas Pal I had previously called 
 with a letter of introduction. He is the editor of the 
 Hindoo Patriot, a man of gi'eat ability, and intel- 
 lectually the leader of Hindoo public opinion. He 
 was kind enough to give me a large number of 
 pamphlets on public questions, from which I learned 
 his views. He warmly advocates the English educa- 
 tion of the natives, and urges many reforms which I 
 think might with advantage be granted. At the same 
 time it struck me that he is to be regarded rather as 
 the representative of the zemindars than of the natives 
 generally. The rich zemindars, under Lord Corn- 
 wallis's permanent settlement, have become the pro- 
 prietors of the land of Bengal. From their wealth and 
 their intelligence they must always have influence ; but 
 it is to be borne in mind that beneath them are the 
 vast body of ryots, often living in the greatest poverty, 
 and with little or no means of making their feelings 
 and their grievances known. 
 
 I dined with Sir Alexander Arbutlmot, the Madras 
 member of the Viceroy^s Council, where I met Mr. 
 Bayley, Mr. Metcalfe, Mr. Colvin, and Colonel Earle, 
 Military Secretary to Lord Northbrook. We after- 
 wards went to a jDarty given by Captain Bedford and
 
 182 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 the officers of the " Serapis/' where was a performance 
 of Christy Minstrels, which ended with a dance. The 
 " Serapis " lay moored along the banks of the river, 
 and as we left, the blue lights she burned were very 
 pretty. 
 
 The 28th was my last day at Calcutta, so I went to 
 the Oriental Bank to get money for my journey. The 
 governments of the three Presidencies issue notes for 
 sums of from five rupees upwards. The notes of one 
 Presidency are not payable in another, and I was told 
 a discount is sometimes charged on them, though I 
 never found this the case myself. Although the rupee 
 has been very much more depressed since my visit, the 
 depreciation at this time was becoming serious. To a 
 traveller, of course, it was a gain, as in the present 
 instance I saved thirteen per cent, by it ; but to 
 that large body of residents in the East, who have to 
 make heavy remittances home for the maintenance and 
 education of their children, the loss was frightful. The 
 idea suggests itself whether a gold could not be sub- 
 stituted for a silver coinage ; but I was assured by 
 those of whom I asked the question, that the native habit 
 of turning gold coins into ornaments would present a 
 great impediment. I called to take leave of Sir W. 
 Muir, who very kindly gave me letters to Benares, 
 Agra, and E-oorkee, where he recommended me to visit 
 the Ganges Canal. He is a most interesting and superior 
 man — one of those statesmen who have done so much to 
 consolidate the British Empire in the East. I also called 
 to take leave of the poor bishop, whom I then hoped
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 183 
 
 shortly to see again, as he was contemplating a hurried 
 trip to England. In the afternoon I accompanied Sir 
 R. Temple to a meeting, over which he presided, for 
 establishing a school for technical education in com- 
 memoration of the Prince's visit. I was much interested 
 in being present, as, with the exception of the Governor 
 and bis aide-de-camp, the assembly was entirely com- 
 posed of natives, who made speeches, often able and 
 eloquent, in English. The discussion Vv^as warm, some 
 advocating a high-class institution, and others one of 
 a more general and practical character. At last the 
 parties seemed so hopelessly divided, that the only 
 solution appeared to be for each to pursue its own 
 plan, and found its own institution. On our return 
 we visited the native hospital, and passed the Mar- 
 tiniere; a great orphan asylum. After dinner I took 
 leave of my kind friends, who were going to a ball at 
 Government House, and proceeded to the Howrah 
 station of the East Indian Railway on the other side 
 of the Jlooghly, where I took the train for Benares. 
 Sir Richard and Lady Temple had been unceasing in 
 their kindness, and I felt it a great advantage to be in 
 the society of the greatest Indian statesman of the pre- 
 sent day, whose knowledge of everything connected 
 with the country is probably unrivalled. The ob- 
 ject of my journey was to increase my knowledge of 
 a country in which I had long taken an interest, and 
 of which, having been a member of the Committee of 
 the last Parliament on East Indian Finance, I had 
 heard much. This may be a convenient place for
 
 184 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 some general observatious on the information I 
 received. 
 
 The original connexion of England with India was 
 commercial. The East India Company went to India 
 to trade, and did not become political till circumstances 
 forced greatness upon it. The genius of Clive and 
 Hastings conquered an empire, when their masters, the 
 merchant princes of Leadenhall-street, would have pre- 
 ferred a less ambitious policy. The importance of the ter- 
 ritory thus acquired forced itself on public attention ; 
 the eloquence of Burke urged the claims of the people 
 of India for just government, and the result was the 
 system established by Pitt, which continued in force 
 for more than seventy years. By this system the ad- 
 ministration was carried on in the name of the Com- 
 pany, but the political acts of the Company wete sub- 
 mitted to the Board of Control, which consisted of the 
 Ministers of the Crown, and which was, of course, 
 responsible to Parliament. In 1814 the Company was 
 precluded from trading in India, and in 1834 their 
 trade to China was prohibited, and they were confined 
 to their functions as a governing body. They consisted 
 of the Court of Proprietors, composed of those who 
 held 1000?. of their stock, who met quarterly, debated 
 Indian questions, and elected a Court of twenty-four 
 directors, in whom the power was lodged. This Court 
 administered the government, subject to the supervision 
 of the Boai'd of Control, which had a veto On their pro- 
 ceedings, and on political questions had the power of over- 
 ruling their wishes by sending out orders, often contrary
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 185 
 
 to their views, thi'ougli what was called the Secret Com- 
 mittee. It was in this way that Sir John Cam Hobhouso, 
 in defiance of the opinion of the directors, ordered the 
 army to cross the Sutlej, and forced on the Affghan war. 
 One of the most important functions of the directors 
 was patronage. It was felt in 1783, and continued 
 to be felt in 1858, that to place the vast patronage 
 of the East in the hands of the minister of the 
 day would be fraught with danger to the very 
 existence of the British Constitution. Hence it was 
 left in the hands of the Company, and, when that 
 venerable body ceased to exist, was disposed of by com- 
 petitive examination. The directors were, for the most 
 part, gentlemen who had distinguished themselves in 
 India. It was the natural and laudable ambition of 
 those who had spent their lives with distinction in the 
 service of the Company, on their return home, to 
 become members of the goveriiing body. The great 
 objection to the system was, that as many of the pro- 
 prietors knew nothing of India, and cared for nothing 
 but their dividends, some of the most distinguished 
 statesmen declined to submit to the humiliation of a 
 personal canvass. But, despite this disadvantage, the 
 Court always contained a large amount of Indian ex- 
 perience. It had the advantage of keeping the con- 
 duct of Eastern affairs in the hands of men trained 
 from their earliest years in the traditions of the ser- 
 vice. The most distinguished Indian statesman has 
 no power, under the present plan of competition, of 
 placing his son in the service. Formerly he was able
 
 186 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 to do SO as a matter of course. Directors occasionally 
 prostituted their patronage to jobbery, but, neverthe- 
 less, many of them honourably disposed of it to the 
 children of those who had claims on the Company. A 
 director would say, " I recollect So-and-so rendering 
 great services in Orissa twenty years ago, and I will 
 give his son a writership.'^ The young man so ap- 
 pointed had a basis of knowledge which it takes his 
 successor selected by competition many years to ac- 
 quire. He had been born in India, and his infant lips 
 had lisped in Bengalee or Tamil. The conversation at 
 his father's table had been on Indian questions, and he 
 landed in Hindustan with an acquaintance with the 
 country such as cannot be possessed by one who has 
 no hereditary connexion with it. Previous to leaving 
 England he was sent to Haileybury, where those 
 nominated to writerships were grounded in Oriental 
 studies. Haileybury had this great advantage, that it 
 threw the future rulers of India together in close per- 
 sonal intercourse, and gave them that intimate know- 
 ledge of each other's abilities and characters which can 
 only be acquired in schools and colleges. A man's 
 talents were appreciated before he arrived, his repu- 
 tation had preceded him, and the acquaintance of the 
 service with each other was of great advantage. It was 
 true that many incompetent men were nominated by 
 the favouritism of corrupt directors, but when they 
 arrived they were relegated to positions where their 
 incompetence was not likely to be felt, while the better 
 class of directors took a pride in the achievements of
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 187 
 
 tlieir nominees. Now there is no esprit de corps in 
 tlie service. A Civil Servant lands, knowing nothing of 
 his colleagues_, and has to acquire much which was in- 
 tuitive to his predecessor. It is said that "many of 
 the Company^s men were fliilures, but others had genius 
 The Queen has fewer failures^ but also fewer men of 
 genius. ^^ It must be borne in mind that we do not yet 
 see the full effect of the change which was inaugurated 
 in 1854. The great men who now rule the East were 
 appointed by the directors. The Temples, the Muirs, 
 the Stracheys, the Meades, and the Huddlostones, were 
 all originally in the Company^s service. It will not be 
 for some ten or twelve years to come, when the last 
 of John Company^s servants shall have retired to an 
 honourable and well-earned repose at home, that we shall 
 appreciate the full importance of the alteration which 
 deprived India of the hereditary knowledge insured by 
 the old system. 
 
 It would appear that many of the advantages pos- 
 sessed by the institution at Haileybury might be again 
 secured by placing those who have passed the exa- 
 mination for an appointment in a college to commence 
 together their Oriental studies. It is much to be re- 
 gretted that Lord Salisbury should have decided against 
 this scheme, which would at least have brought the ser- 
 vice into communication and acquaintance with each 
 other. A yet more important question is, " Can nothing 
 be done to enable the sons of those who have served 
 their country in the East to follow the career in which 
 their fathers have been honourably distinguished ?"
 
 188 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 The son of an old Indian can offer qualifications for the 
 service of his Sovereign which others do not possess. 
 He has facilities for acquiring a knowledge of the 
 habits, the feelings, and the languages of the natives. 
 He enjoys their respect, in many instances their affec- 
 tion, in a way not vouchsafed to any man who comes 
 fresh to the country. On the other hand, it is only 
 justice to those who devote their liv^es to the service of 
 Eucjland in a trvino* climate, that their children should 
 be placed in an advantageous position for succeeding 
 them as compared with those who have no such claim. 
 The army in India is much better paid than it is at 
 home, while the Civil Service is the most highly re- 
 munerated under the Crown ; but, taking all this into 
 account, her Majesty^s Indian servants deserve every 
 consideration. Though their salaries are liberal, the 
 cost of living in India is great, and they are involved 
 in great expense from the necessity of educating their 
 children at home. All that an Indian can expect 
 to do with the utmost prudence is to realize a moderate 
 competency on which to spend his declining years in 
 England. Such men deserve every consideration at 
 the hands of their country. The case might be met 
 without any violent alteration of the present system. 
 All nominations might continue to be given by com- 
 petition, but it might be enacted that half of them 
 should be reserved for the sons of those who had spent 
 twenty years either in the military or civil service of 
 the Crown in India. Such a change would be a boon 
 to a most deserving body of men — a body of men to
 
 CALCUTTA AND BKITISH POWER IN IXDIa. 189 
 
 whom their Sovereign and country are deeply in- 
 debted — and it would secure for the East the services 
 of those whose acquaintance with the country dated 
 from their eai^liest years and associations. 
 
 Although destitute of power, the Court of Proprietors 
 had its use in enlightening public opinion on Oriental 
 questions. Men who had spent their lives in adminis- 
 tering the affairs of the East always found a difficulty 
 in entering the House of Commons — a difficulty 
 which has been much increased by each succeeding 
 Reform Bill. The Court of Proprietors afforded an 
 arena whose custom secured a report of their speeches, 
 and where they were able to give the public the benefit 
 of their enlarged experience. The great Company has 
 passed into history, and many faults may be laid to its 
 charge. The Christian must deeply deplore that the 
 directors did not appreciate the responsibility of giving 
 every facility for the spread of the Gospel. It is of 
 course a duty to grant the fullest amount of toleration, 
 and even to permit some things which would not be 
 allowed in a Christian country; but, at the same time, it 
 is a duty to aff'ord to missionaries every opportunity of 
 proclaiming the unsearchable riches of Christ to the 
 population around them. They have been charged with 
 carrying on unjust and unnecessary wars of aggression, 
 though, as regards these, they for the most part acted 
 under the orders of the Board of Control. The pro- 
 duction of opium and the salt-tax had their origin under 
 their rer/lnie. On the other hand, we can but admire 
 the genius and the energy which converted a few trading
 
 190 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 factories into a magnificent empire, and which governed 
 teeming millions in peace, and on the whole in pros- 
 perity. The proud boast of the petition ^ in which 
 the Company, opposing their extinction in 1858, ad- 
 dressed Parliament was fully justified : — ^' If the charac- 
 ter of the East India Company alone were concerned, 
 your petitioners would be willing to await the verdict 
 of history. They are satisfied that posterity will do 
 them justice.'" But whatever the merits of the Company, 
 they were at that moment discredited by the want of 
 foresight which preceded the mutiny, and their nume- 
 rous enemies took advantage of the crisis to secure their 
 fall. The Gov^ernment of India was transferred to the 
 Crown, it being fondly supposed that, when the House 
 of Commons was in name as well as in fact the para- 
 mount power, it would give increased attention to 
 Eastern aflairs. At that time the great apprehension 
 entertained by the opponents of the change, and es- 
 pecially by their illustrious leader, Mr. Thomas Baring, 
 was that India would become " the shuttlecock of party.'" 
 Whatever the danger may have been, the disastrous 
 collapse of Mr. CardwelFs motion on the Talookdars of 
 Oude seems to have taught the House that Indian sub- 
 jects were not adapted for party conflicts. The large- 
 acred squires and the rich merchants and manufacturers, 
 who comprise so large a proportion of the assembly, 
 
 ' This petition, whicb. contained an able and exhanstive defence 
 of tbe administration of the Company, was the comjDOsition of 
 two very eminent men. Sir James Melvill and Mr. John Stuart 
 Mill.
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 191 
 
 know nothing of India, and, when an Indian subject 13 
 debated, are conspicuous by their absence. The result 
 is that India is less known to the British public 
 then when its affairs were ventilated in the Court of 
 Proprietors. When Mr. Grant DufF brought in his 
 first Budget in 18G9, Colonel Sykes paid him the 
 curious compliment of informing him that '' he was 
 the first Indian Minister he recollected who could get 
 forty members to listen to him." A few members, 
 notably Professor Fawcett, have felt their responsibility 
 to the people of India, but as a rule the House of 
 Commons has been scandalously indifferent to Indian 
 subjects. The Indian Council is supposed to take the 
 place of the Court of Directors in administering the 
 finances, and Mr. Gladstone once informed the House 
 that to pass a resolution about opium would be to 
 interfere with their functions. No doubt the advice and 
 assistance of a body of experienced Indian statesmen is 
 valuable to the Secretary of State, but their constitution 
 precludes their exercising any control over him. 
 
 Every one who pays any attention to Indian 
 questions must be aware that finance is the great diffi- 
 culty we have to encounter. We have an inelastic 
 revenue, a constantly increasing expenditure, and our 
 embarrassments have lately been augmented by the fall 
 in the value of silver. The chief items of revenue are : — 
 
 Land £21,000,000 
 
 Opium 8,400,000^ 
 
 " This is the gross revenue. Some £2,000,000 has to be 
 deducted for expenses.
 
 192 
 
 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHIXA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Salt £6,200,000 
 
 Stamps 2,800,000 
 
 Customs 2,600,000 
 
 Excise 2,500,000 
 
 Tributes 700,000 
 
 Irrigation and State Railways . . . 1,000,000 
 Miscellaneous, Receipts, Army, Post Office, 
 
 Telegraphs, &c 5,300,000 
 
 Total 
 
 . £50,500,000 
 
 Tlie land revenue is tlie principal item of receipts, 
 and has not of late years shown much elasticity : — 
 
 In 1869-70 it amounted to £21,066,929 
 „ 1870-71 „ „ „ 20,622,823 
 
 1871-72 
 1872-73 
 1873-71 
 
 1874-75 
 
 20,620,337 
 21,348,669 
 21,037,912 
 21,296,793 
 
 The revised estimate for 1875-76 and the Budget 
 estimate for 1876-77 are about the same. 
 
 It is evident that the land revenue cannot be looked 
 to for any increase, and, so far as I could gather, it was 
 already at a figure which presses with undue severity 
 on the inhabitants of many districts. It is raised differ- 
 ently in different pi'ovinces, but the main systems are 
 the zemindaree, where the tax is paid by the zemindar 
 or native proprietor ; the ryotwaree, where it is collected 
 from the ryot or cultivator direct ; and the village, 
 where a small community organize themselves into a 
 kind of municipality, and the headmen of this commu- 
 nity apportion the payments, and liand the proceeds to
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 193 
 
 the collector. In Bengal mucli of the land is held under 
 Lord Cornwallis^s Permanent Settlement of 1793. 
 That Settlement is generally held to have been a great 
 mistake. It guaranteed the zemindar, who had collected 
 it for former native princes, against any increase of 
 assessment, thus converting the tax-collectors into pro- 
 prietors, and it did so at a time when, as was pointed 
 out by Sir John Shore (afterwards Lord Teignmouth 
 and Governor- General), owing to a great recent famine, 
 the assessment was unusually low. But, whatever the 
 mistake at the time, the faith of the country is pledged 
 to its permanence, and the zemindars, who from a kind 
 of middle-men were converted into landed proprietors, 
 are entitled to reap the advantages conceded to them 
 by Lord Oornwallis. But while every idea of inter- 
 fering with their rights ought to be repudiated and 
 denounced, it cannot be admitted that the Permanent 
 Settlement should exempt them from income-tax, 
 should that tax ever be generally imposed. The mis- 
 fortune of the Permanent Settlement is that it pre- 
 cludes the State from taking advantage of any rise 
 in the value of land ; and as no increase of revenue 
 is possible from the rich provinces of Bengal, the 
 necessities of the Exchequer press with undue severity 
 on the landed interest in other parts of India. At 
 the same time it undoubtedly pi'omotes the wealth of 
 the settled districts, and enables the Government to 
 collect the revenue with ease. Sir R. Temple, in 
 his '^Report on the Administration of Bengal for 
 1874-75,^' says on this point, ^' As might be well ex- 
 

 
 194 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 pected under the Permanent Settlement, the ordinary 
 land revenue is collected with such ease and punctu- 
 ality that nothing is left for remark or narrative/' 
 
 Of the twenty-one millions of land revenue, three 
 and a half are under the Permanent Settlement. The 
 remainder is obtained by other plans. The common 
 system in the North seems to be a settlement for 
 thirty years, which, at the end of that period, is liable 
 to alteration. This seems fair, both for the Govern- 
 ment and the proprietor, but unfortunately the tax is 
 fixed at so high a rate as to weigh with undue severity. 
 Take the case of the Talookdars of Oude, of whom we 
 heard so much at the time of Mr. CardwelFs attack on 
 Lord Derby on this question in 1858. The Talook- 
 dars are the landowners of Oude, subject to a rent of 
 fifty per cent, for land-tax, and five per cent, for local 
 charges. This charge seems enormous, though it is 
 said to be so assessed as not to come to so much. In 
 Madras the land revenue " is fixed on each field, to be 
 paid for good crops ; if the crop fail, the revenue is 
 reduced, and there is an annual settlement on cultivated 
 land.'" ' Such a system gives little inducement for the 
 improvement of agriculture, and we can hardly wonder 
 if we hear of land being thrown out of cultivation. 
 Under these circumstances we cannot look for much 
 increase of the land revenue, and it might well be 
 wished that our finances were in a condition which 
 would permit of its pressure being lightened. Some 
 remarks of the Duke of Argyll, in a despatch of May 
 » Blue Book on East India Progress, 1872-73, p. 26. 
 
 i
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 105 
 
 22nd, 1873, deserve attentive consideration : — " I 
 observe, with much satisfaction, that the Lieutenant- 
 Governor in his minute discourages the notion that 
 whatever is gained by the owner of land, in the shape of 
 rent, is so much lost to the State. The best wealth of 
 a Government is to be found in the growing wealth of 
 its people ; and the feeling which leads it to grudge 
 all that does not fall into the hands of its tax collector 
 is a very short-sighted feeling, and must lead, if really 
 
 followed, to a very short-sighted policy Under 
 
 the system of land revenue which has long prevailed 
 in India, the proportion of the total produce of the soil 
 which is absorbed by the State is very large. Pro- 
 prietors of the smaller class who do not enjoy more, 
 and who generally enjoy less than one-half the rental, 
 are not in the position which enables the proprietors of 
 land in other countries to expend largely out of their 
 incomes upon the permanent improvement of the soil. 
 
 When the Government appropriates a large 
 
 proportion of that surplus produce of the soil, which in 
 all countries must be the foundation of individual 
 and national wealth, it cannot expect the people to 
 have the enterprising and independent spirit which 
 that wealth promotes.^' 
 
 Opium is the next great item in the Budget, and 
 the revenue derived from it resolves itself into two 
 heads : the profit realized by its cultivation and sale 
 at Calcutta, and the transit duly levied by the Bombay 
 Government on its passage through their territories. 
 The system under which the first portion is collected is 
 
 2
 
 196 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHlNAj AND INDIA. 
 
 described by Sir Cecil Beadon, late Lieutenant-Governor 
 of Bengal, in his evidence before the Committee of the 
 House of Commons. He stated that " the existing 
 mode of raising the revenue had been in force almost 
 ever since the commencement of our rule in Bengal, 
 and had been gradually growing for a number of years ;" 
 that " the Government has established two agencies, 
 one at Patna, and the other at Ghazeepore, which are 
 usually called the Behar agency and the Benares 
 agency ; the head-quarters of the one being at Patna, 
 and of the other at Ghazeepore ; " that " when any 
 ryot wishes to cultivate opium, he goes to the sub- 
 agent, and asks to have his name registered, his land 
 measured, and to get a cultivation licence, and the 
 usual advance. The sub-agent makes inquiries — as- 
 certains that the man is really bona fide an owner of 
 the land which he proposes to cultivate with opium, 
 has the land measured, and then makes the advance 
 upon the security of the person himself, to whom the 
 advance is made, and his fellow-villagers. The advance 
 is made shortly before the sowing season. The ryot 
 then sows his land, and when the plant is above ground, 
 the land is then measured by one of the native estab- 
 lishments, and if the ryot has sown all that he engaged 
 to sow, he gets a second advance ; if he has not sown 
 so much, he gets something less in proportion, or if 
 more he gets a little more. This is a sort of rough 
 settlement of the second advance. Nothing further 
 takes place till the crop is ripe for gathering, and 
 when the ryot has gathered the crop he collects it in
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 107 
 
 vessels, and takes it to the sub-agent's office ; there he 
 dehvei's it to the sub -agent, as the agent of the 
 Government, and receives the full price for it, subject 
 to further adjustment, when the opium has been 
 weighed and tested, and examined at the agent's 
 factory. The opium is then collected at the sub- 
 agency and forwarded to the factory ; there it is ex- 
 posed for a considerable time in large masonry tanks ; 
 it is reduced to a uniform consistency, and made fit for 
 the market, some for home consumption, and some 
 for sale in Calcutta for exportation — the greater quan- 
 tity for exportation. It is then packed in cases and 
 sent to Calcutta, and in Calcutta it is sold by aucti(DU 
 at periodical sales, and exported by merchants for con- 
 sumption abroad." That '' the extent of land so culti- 
 vated is limited according to the financial needs of 
 the Government ; it is limited entirely upon Imperial 
 considerations. The Government of India, theoretically 
 at least, if not practically, decide how much opium 
 they will bring to market ; and, of course, upon that 
 depends the quantity of land they will put under culti- 
 vation, and make advances for." That ''it is abso- 
 lutely prohibited for any one to cultivate opium without 
 a licence," and that " there is no illicit cultivation at 
 all." 
 
 Such is the system as detailed on the high authority 
 of Sir Cecil Beadon ; and no one can pretend, after 
 reading his statement, that our connexion with opium 
 is simply a parallel case to the duty we levy on spirits 
 at home. As regards spirits, our legislation^ though
 
 198 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINAj AND INDIA. 
 
 it might be carried farther, is a legislation of repres- 
 sion. We impose a heavy duty, and we enact that the 
 sale shall not take place except in houses licensed by 
 the authority of the State. We might raise the duty, 
 and we might prohibit the sale ; but if, on the other 
 hand, we did away with the duty, and permitted the 
 sale without licence, we should immensely increase the 
 consumption. Chancellors of the Exchequer may find 
 an increased consumption a help to their Budget, 
 but the action of the British Parliament has been to 
 throw impediments in the way of drinking. Contrast 
 this with the action of the Indian Government in 
 regard to opium. When a deficiency of revenue is 
 feared, the Council of the Viceroy urge that "the 
 most energetic steps should be taken to increase the 
 production. ^^ * They " only regard opium as a means 
 of revenue." * They discourage, it is true, the con- 
 sumption of the drug among their own subjects, but 
 when it is a question of revenue on the one hand, or of 
 poisoning thousands of unhappy Chinese on the other, 
 they regard the demoralization and extinction of a 
 friendly nation with perfect indifference. They do not 
 view opium, as a British statesman views spirits, as an 
 article whose consumption is to be discouraged. They 
 view it rather as a distiller, and consider that money 
 is to be made without reference to moral considera- 
 tions. The position of the Indian Government in re- 
 gard to opium is not analogous to that of the British 
 
 * Minute of Sir J. Stracliey, September 20, 1869. 
 
 * Sir C. Beadon's answer to Mr. Fawcett. Question 3329. 
 
 i
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 199 
 
 Cliancellor of the Exchequer wlio taxes spirits, but 
 rather to that of the distiller who produces them. Wc 
 may be told that we are simply supplying the Chinese 
 with a soothing and a harmless luxury. Such was not 
 the opinion of the East India Company. The Court of 
 Directors, in a memorable despatch, condemned opium 
 in perhaps the tersest and most powerful sentence 
 which has ever been written on the subject : — "Were it 
 'possible to put an end to the use of the drug altogether, 
 except for medical purposes, we would gladly do it in 
 compassion to manldndJ" And yet, under the adminis- 
 tration of the Company, the exportation of opium, 
 which, in the time of Warren Hastings, began with some 
 200 chests, grew to over 70,000. With a great admi- 
 ration for the Company, whose faults seem to me to have 
 been exaggerated, and whose merits to have been very 
 insufl&ciently appreciated, I cannot but feel that the way 
 in which, under the sanction and with the support of the 
 Home Government, they taught the Chinese the taste for 
 this deleterious drug, is the great blot in their escutcheon. 
 The Company fell, and the disgust felt through- 
 out the length and breadth of the land, when attention 
 was called to this question in 1857, by General 
 Alexander, Joseph Sturge, (the late eminent philan- 
 thropist) and others, was one element which led to their 
 fall, but the Govei-nment which succeeded them have 
 intensified and perpetuated the evil. The responsibility 
 of the Company was assumed by the British nation, 
 and I cannot but fear that for our conduct on this sub- 
 ject we have to give a solemn account. The question
 
 200 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 was first brought before Parliament in tlie time of the 
 Company^ in tlie year 1843, when Lord Ashley (the 
 present Earl of Shaftesbury) moved a resolution to the 
 effect that the trade with China '^ was damaging to our 
 legitimate commerce^ and utterly inconsistent with the 
 honour and duty of a great Christian country/' This 
 motion was withdrawn on Sir Robert PeeFs stating 
 that delicate negotiations were going on with China, 
 with which it would be inconvenient to interfere. 
 Though a good deal of public attention was called to 
 this question in 1856 and ]857, the dissolution of the 
 latter year prevented its being brought before Parlia- 
 ment. T am not aware that it was ever alluded to in 
 the House till the Indian Budget of 1869, when I ven- 
 tured to say a few words upon it, stating that " I had 
 always regarded the conduct of this country in forcing 
 this poisonous and deleterious drug upon the Chinese 
 as the greatest blot on the name of the British 
 nation.'^ 
 
 The following year Sir Wilfrid Lawson moved that 
 " this House condemns the system by which a large 
 portion of the Indian revenue is raised from opium.'* 
 This motion was defeated on a division, after Mr. Glad- 
 stone had lectured the House on interfering with a 
 matter which belonged to the Indian Council. In 1875 
 Mr. Mark Stewart moved that '' this House is of opinion 
 that the Imperial policy regulating the opium traffic 
 between India and China should be carefully considered 
 by her Majesty's Government, with a view to the 
 gradual withdrawal of the Government of India from
 
 CALCUTTA AND BEITISH POWEE IN INDIA. 201 
 
 the cultivatiou and manufacture of opium." This reso- 
 lution was also defeated. 
 
 It will be seen that the House of Commons has three 
 times sanctioned the present system — once during 
 the regime of the Company, and twice in recent 
 years. 
 
 Whatever the guilt incurred by the Company, it has 
 clearly been assumed by Parliament. It is a sad con- 
 sideration that the evil has grown to such a point that 
 it seems most difficult to find a way of escape. In 1843 
 the revenue in question was only 2,000,000^. ; now it 
 has swollen to 6,000,OOOZ. Had Lord Shaftesbury suc- 
 ceeded, the revenue would long ere this have been re- 
 placed from other sources ; and as the Chinese Govern- 
 ment were sincerely desirous to suppress the use of 
 opium, this fearful vice would have been uncommon, if 
 not unknown, in China. Now the Chinese have become 
 so accustomed to the indulgence, and their Govern- 
 ment is so powerless, that it is to be feared that nothing 
 that we can do will stop the consumption. It is also to be 
 feared that it is perfectly true, as alleged by the advo- 
 cates of opium, that the Chinese will have it, and that 
 if we do not supply it they will procure it elsewhere. 
 India has become increasingly dependent on this 
 revenue, and though it may be urged that the increased 
 and increasing cultivation in China makes this revenue 
 most precarious, it is replied that present necessities 
 leave no room for considerations of future danger. 
 The situation illustrates the well-known lines of the 
 poet, —
 
 202 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 " Facilis descensus Averni ; 
 Noctes atque dies patet atri janua Ditis ; 
 Sed revocare gradum, superasque evadere ad auras, 
 Hoc opus, hie labor est." 
 
 When iu Parliament I spoke strongly on this question, 
 but I always felt tliat it is one for the people of Eng- 
 land, and that if they wish to get rid of the responsi- 
 bility thoy must be prepared for a sacrifice similar to 
 that which they made for the abolition of slavery. 
 The people of England are trustees for the people of 
 India. Under their administration — with the sanction 
 of their representatives — this system has grown up, and 
 they have no right to tax their subjects to make up for 
 their own errors. It would be impossible, without 
 gross oppression, to raise the taxation of India by 
 6,000,000L If, therefore, we wish to relieve ourselves 
 from the responsibility of this reproach to the British 
 name, we must be prepared to put our hands in our 
 own pockets. We must not oppress the Hindoos to 
 atone for our own faults, and, unless we are prepared 
 for a great sacrifice, I see no remedy for this evil. Par- 
 liament, of course, could not legislate unless the state 
 of public feeling was very diff'erent to that which now 
 exists, and the subject must be left to the consciences 
 of the British people.^ 
 
 Many persons who will not be prepared to agree 
 
 * I need hardly point out that a middle course might be pur- 
 sued by a Government earnestly anxious to abate this great evil. 
 They might at once arrest the increased cultivation of the poppy, 
 with a view gradually to diminish the supply and to substitute 
 for opium other sources of revenue.
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 203 
 
 with me in the strong" views which I have expressed 
 will think that the Bengal system, to which I have 
 hitherto referred, might be advantageously abandoned. 
 A great portion of the opium produced is not grown 
 under our rule, but is cultivated in the native States, 
 particularly in the territories of Holkar. This opium, 
 which passes under the name of Malwa opium, pays a 
 duty of 600 rupees per chest for transit through the 
 British territory, and is shipped from Bombay. It has 
 been gradually increasing, till in the years 1872-73 and 
 187-3-74 the Malwa opium exceeded the Bengal. The 
 fact of so large a proportion being produced by native 
 States would now constitute an additional difficulty in 
 suppressing the traffic. It will be seen that, as regards 
 this opium, the analogy which is attempted to be drawn 
 between the Indian revenue from opium and the British 
 revenue from spirits is much more applicable, and it has 
 been proposed to assimilate the Bengal system to the 
 Bombay, by giving up the Government advances to 
 the ryot for cultivation, and by levying an export 
 duty. 
 
 The great advocate of this change is Sir William 
 Muir, who, when Governor of the North-West Pro- 
 vinces, explained his views in a very able Minute, dated 
 February 22, 1868. This document begins with a dis- 
 cussion of the Bombay pass duty, which, having been 
 at first 1 75 rupees per chest, and afterwards as low as 
 125, has been gradually raised, till, in 1861, it stood at 
 700 and since 1862 has remained at 600. The distin- 
 guished author seems to incline to the opinion that the
 
 204 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 state of the market would permit tlie duty to be raised 
 to 700 or even 800 rupees per chest without injury to 
 the trade. He then proceeds to advocate " superseding 
 the singular, and, to my mind, objectionable arrange- 
 ment, under which the Bengal Government monopolizes 
 the growth, manufacture, and sale of the drug." He 
 goes on to say, " I am not insensible to the difficulties 
 surrounding this question. Besides all other risks to 
 the revenue, there is the danger of smuggling. This 
 already exists to some considerable degree. But if 
 free or licensed cultivation be allowed in Malwa and 
 Bombay without any practical risk of evasion aloug its 
 extensive sea-board, I cannot see what greater risk 
 there could be in Bengal. The growth of the poppy 
 might still remain prohibited on this side Behar, and 
 further security might be obtained by making the cul- 
 tivation subject to licence, as suggested by the Allaha- 
 bad Board and Sir E. Hamilton." He then proceeds 
 to argue that a duty of 700 rupees per chest all round 
 would yield close on to six millions sterling, which is 
 equivalent to, or even more, than the present net 
 revenue, and that the Government, by a uniform duty, 
 would probably have the Chinese mai'ket far more 
 under its command than by the present double system. 
 He calls attention to the expensive nature of th^ 
 present plan, the cost of a chest to the Govern- 
 ment averaging 300 rupees, and having risen in 
 1861-2 to 420. He also alludes to "the inconveni- 
 ences and loss to the Government from the locking up 
 of enormous sums distributed in advance to the culti-
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 205 
 
 vators." According to Sir Charles Trevelyan, "the 
 greater part of the advances of two years must 
 always be outstanding/-' and in 1864 the amount 
 thus lent out was estimated at two millions and 
 three-quarters sterling, on which large amount no 
 interest was charged. After considering several ques- 
 tions of detail, such as licences for cultivation, 
 smuggling, and the steps which would be required 
 to make the alterations. Sir William Muir concludes, — 
 " Surely a case has been made out to justify at the 
 least inquiry. Prima facie, the change proposed would 
 remove a blemish from the administration without 
 imperilling the finances. That cannot be an edifying 
 position for the Government to occupy, in which it has 
 year by year to determine the quantity of opium it will 
 bring to sale, and in which there is a constant induce- 
 ment for it to trim the market, and in which its haste 
 to secure wider harvests and larger returns has 
 repeatedly recoiled upon the trade, stimulated baneful 
 speculation and gambling in Central and Western India, 
 and ended in much misery. I do not speak of the 
 undignified aspect of the British Government growing, 
 manufacturing, and selling the drug — performing, in 
 fact, all the functions of producer and speculator. I 
 will merely ask what the impression is on the mind 
 when we see Holkar performing the functions of opium- 
 trader, which are now discharged by the Government 
 of Bengal." 
 
 " The change would relieve the British Government 
 from the odious imputation of pandering to the vice
 
 206 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA,, AND INDIA. 
 
 of China by overstimulating production, overstocking 
 the market, and flooding China with the drug, in order 
 to raise a wider and more secure revenue to itself — an 
 imputation of which at least on one occasion I fear we 
 are not wholly guiltless. A few years ago, when the 
 Government of Bengal was straining every nerve to 
 extend the cultivation of the poppy, I was witness to 
 the discontent of the agricultural population of certain 
 districts west of the Jumna, from which the crop was 
 for the first time being raised. Where the system of 
 advances has long been in vogue, and the mode of 
 preparing the drug is well understood, no doubt the 
 poppy is a popular crop ; though even there the system 
 of Government monopoly gives to Government officers 
 a power of interference over those who have once 
 taken their advances, which must be liable to abuse. 
 But the case to which I allude is that of Tiew districts 
 where the poppy had not hitherto been grown, and 
 into which the Bengal Board were endeavouring to 
 extend the cultivation by the bait of large advances 
 among an unwilling peasantry, and at the risk of 
 innoculating them with a taste for a deleterious drug; 
 and all this with the sole view of securing a wider area 
 of poppy cultivation, and thus a firmer grasp of the 
 China market/^ " The impropriety of the position 
 was to my mind painful." " By retiring from the 
 monopoly the Government of India will avoid these 
 and all other unseemly imputations. China wants 
 opium : our traders and merchants are ready to supply 
 it. The licence duty will still support the revenue^
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 207 
 
 and thus the action of the Government will be that of 
 check, and no longer of stimulus. The fluctuations in 
 the demands of China will be met in the ordinary- 
 course of trade, by corresponding variations in the 
 supply from India. The area of cultivation will be 
 adjusted by the direct action of the Chinese themselves 
 upon speculators and producers, and will no longer 
 depend upon the arbitrary will of the Government. 
 To bring about results so desirable in themselves, and 
 so closely affecting the good name of the British 
 Government, is surely a sufficient warrant for the ap- 
 pointnient of a Commission." 
 
 I have troubled my readers with these long quotations 
 because it seems to me they deserve the attentive 
 consideration of every one who can exert any influence 
 over Eastern aSairs. These are no Utopian sentiments.' 
 They are not the sentiments of a missionary who 
 reprobates the trade on account of the evil it causes to 
 the Chinese. . They are not the sentiments of a student 
 who has gained his acquaintance with Indian afiairs 
 from the perusal of reports and blue books at home. 
 They are the sentiments of a great statesman, who has 
 filled the highest offices in India, through a career of 
 unusual length, with extraordinary distinction and 
 success. The views of such a man cannot be dis- 
 missed as Utopian and impracticable; and though 
 the change he advocates cannot atone for the past, 
 cannot even lessen the demoralization which is now 
 injuring the Chinese, his plan would at least place 
 England in a less objectionable position.
 
 208 A VISIT TO JAPA^, CHINA, AND INDIA, 
 
 I had always understood tliat the British Govern- 
 ment endeavoured to discoui^age the consumption of 
 opium among our own subjects. On this point 1 did 
 not obtain much definite information ; but my general 
 impression is that it is to be feared that the use of 
 opium is increasing in India. I heard on high authority 
 that its consumption increases in Burmah, though it is 
 heavily taxed. It must be difScult, if not impossible 
 for the Government, connected as they are with the 
 cultivation of the drug, to prevent its consumption. 
 
 The next important item in the Budget is the salt-tax, 
 which from 2,602,670Z. in 1858-9 rose to 6,227,30IZ. in 
 1874-5. It is argued in support of this tax that it is 
 the only way in which a large majority of the popula- 
 tion contribute to the necessities of the state, and that 
 it is only right they should assist the revenue- 
 Objecting to the opium revenue, and sensible of the 
 difficulties which beset the finances of India, I cannot 
 advocate any present alteration which would reduce the 
 amount raised. At the same time it is a great misfor- 
 tune that we should be obliged to levy a duty which 
 falls on the poorest and most indigent of the population. 
 A government should always strive to avoid taxing the 
 necessaries of hfe. In this country the working classes 
 pay by their consumption of tea, beer, and spirits, but 
 these articles (unless we except beer) are luxuries and 
 not necessities. Salt is a necessary of life, and it is 
 deeply to be deplored that we should be obliged to 
 place a duty upon it. Moreover, this duty is enormous. 
 A ton of Cheshire sjilt, which the people of England
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWEE IN INDIA. 209 
 
 may buy for 10s. ^ pays £8 17s. '6d. duty on being ad- 
 mitted into Bengal, and with freight and otber charges 
 costs 101. 10s. to the people of that country. This 
 cannot but restrict consumption, and we are told that 
 no salt is used in agriculture, that the cattle are stinted 
 of it, and that the poor along the sea-coast use salt- 
 earth scraped from swamps washed by the sea, while 
 in inland districts the scrapings from saltpetre pans are 
 what thousands of families are reduced to consume. Much 
 disease is said to be engendered by the scarcity of pure 
 salt, and the trade in salt fish is hampered by the duty. 
 It is certainly most unfortunate that we should have to 
 depend for so large a revenue on this necessary of life, 
 but the requirements of our Exchequer seem to leave 
 us no alternative. The only questions are whether a re- 
 duction might not maintain the same amount of revenue 
 by hading to increased consumption, and whether im- 
 provements might not be made in the mode of collec- 
 tion. As regards the first question, the poverty of the 
 population may make it doubtful whether much can be 
 expected from reduction, though it is a strong argument 
 for it on the ground of humanity. The unequal inci- 
 dence of the tax as collected in different parts of India 
 has been condemned by Mr. Grant Dufi" in his account 
 of his journey in Macmillan.^ 
 
 The Customs raise the question of the duty on 
 Manchester goods, of which we hear so much from 
 
 ^ Much valuable information on tlie salt-tax will be found in 
 a pamphlet lately published by a friend of mine very convcraaut 
 with every Indian question, Sir George Balfoiir, M.P. 
 
 P
 
 210 A YISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Lancasliire M.P/s. The simple fact seems to be that 
 the revenue cannot be dispensed with. The corre- 
 spondence between Lord Salisbury and Lord North- 
 brook on this question was published just before I left 
 India, and created much interest. The A^iceroy seems 
 to have treated the Secretary of State uncourteously, 
 in not keeping him informed of his proceedings, and 
 in passing an Act on this subject at Simla. Still, it 
 must be borne in mind that the Council of Calcutta, 
 who feel their responsibility in regard to the finances 
 of India, could not see their way to the abolition of the 
 duty ; and, looking at the diflSculty of maintaining a 
 financial equilibrium, one does not see how they could 
 arrive at a difierent conclusion. This affair is an illus- 
 tration of the differences which may arise between the 
 London and Calcutta Governments under the present 
 system. Under the Company the Court of Directors 
 exercised great power in questions of taxation ; and, 
 being for the most part old Indians, they regarded 
 them from an Indian point of view. Now the Calcutta 
 Government is under the control of the Secretary of 
 State, who is, of course, responsible to Parliament, 
 and if an influential body of members band together 
 for any purpose, they may bring pressure to bear 
 which it is difl&cult for any Minister to resist. In the 
 present case the pressure is that of the great county 
 of Lancashire, of which two of the present Secretaries 
 of State are natives, and with which Lord Salisbury 
 himself is connected by property. We have seen the 
 Lancashire members — unaccompanied, it is true, by a
 
 CALCUTTA AND BKITISH POWER IN INDIA. 2 1 1 
 
 single member not connected with that county — go in 
 a body to Downing Street, to demand the abolition of 
 these duties. The depreciation of silver has made it 
 impossible at present to comply with their request; 
 but the circumstance may well make us reflect whether 
 the relations of the Indian Government with Parliament 
 are in the position which might be desired. 
 
 Tlie question of the income-tax was debated in India 
 in 1871, and the tax was ultimately abandoned. There 
 can be no doubt that the tax is unpopular, and the 
 question arose whether the dissatisfaction it created 
 did not counterbalance the advantage to the revenue. 
 On this ground it was decided to abandon it, and after 
 this decision it will be impossible, at all events for many 
 years to come, to revert to it. Still, it may be a sub- 
 ject for regret that the attempt was not persevered in. 
 The Hindoo dislikes new forms of taxation, but, when 
 he is accustomed to them, he bears with submission, if 
 not with cheerfulness, burdens which would terrify the 
 inhabitants of other countries. The land-tax and the 
 salt duty, which are both very high, if not excessive, 
 are illustrations. The income-tax falls on the rich, 
 who are able to make themselves heard; but had it 
 been persevered in, it might ultimately have been 
 acquiesced in, and it would have enabled us to do 
 something to mitigate the severity of ihe salt-tax, 
 which falls on the poor, who have no one to plead their 
 cause. It must be admitted that there is a great 
 consensus of opinion among those of Indian experience 
 against an income-tax, and this opinion found utter- 
 
 p 2
 
 212 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 ance in tlie Legislative Council, wtere Mr. Inglis 
 stated ''that for every man who pays the tax to 
 Government, twenty pay to get off, and that for every 
 rupee that is paid into the Treasury, another is paid to 
 the subordinate officials ; that is, that the natives of 
 India paid last year upwards of 2,000,000/. as income- 
 tax to the Government, and upwards of 2,000,000Z. 
 more as bribes/^ The corruption of the native agents 
 the Government are obliged to employ was no doubt 
 a difficulty in regard to this impost, as it is in many 
 other questions. Still, it may be that the dislike en- 
 tertained by Europeans to the income-tax led to the 
 difficulties of its collection being exaggerated, and had 
 the question been fairly encountered, it might have 
 been a great assistance to our Indian finances. Be 
 this as it may, when the attempt to impose it has been 
 once abandoned it cannot be easily resumed. 
 
 A very intelligent officer engaged in the public works 
 told me that he was an advocate for placing a tax on 
 Hindoo marriages, which would be a source of revenue to 
 the State, and would check what is a great abuse in India. 
 A native who saves money expends it either on a tomb 
 for himself or on a marriage-feast for his child. These 
 marriage-feasts are a great source of income to the 
 Brahmins. He said a man in his employment who 
 did not spend as much as the Brahmins thought 
 proper on a marriage, had all sorts of charges trumped 
 up against him, and, had they not known the reason of 
 the animus against him, they must have dismissed him, 
 as they could only judge of the truth by the credibility 
 
 1
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 213 
 
 of tlie witnesses. My friend recommended placing a 
 heavy tax on these marriage-feasts, which he said 
 would be a source of revenue to the Government, and 
 would check a custom which is a source of much 
 oppression to the Hindoos. It struck me that though 
 there was much force in his remarks, yet that it was 
 very doubtful whether this was a matter in which the 
 Administration ought to interfere. The English govern 
 a vast subject population alien to them in religion, habits 
 and customs. It is their duty to study their feelings, and 
 not to interfere with their customs, unless we are com- 
 pelled to do so by strong moral considerations. As a 
 Christian nation we were bound to dissever ourselves 
 from all support of idolatry, and hence we withdrew 
 from the management of the temples. Suttee was an 
 abomination, giving a legal sanction to murder and 
 suicide, which any civilized Government was bound to 
 suppress. But most of the Hindoo customs, though 
 they may be foolish in themselves, and fraught with 
 evil to those who practise them, are not of a character 
 which calls for the interference of the State, and 
 when such is the case, it is right freely to allow them 
 to take their course. We trust that the spread of the 
 Gospel of Peace on earth and good-will towards men 
 will ultimately overturn Brahminism, and we hope that 
 extension of enhghtenment and education will do 
 much to improve the condition of the population ; but 
 we do well to leave change to the operation of moral 
 causes. Marriage-feasts are among the customs to 
 which these remarks apply, and the Government is
 
 214 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 riglit to hesitate before it meddles with an institution 
 which is not only supported by the most influential 
 inhabitants, but is entwined with the traditions of the 
 whole people. 
 
 An examination of the different items of income 
 seems to leave little hope of any increase to the re- 
 venue. The question then arises, what can be done 
 to reduce expenditure ? The great item on this side 
 the account is the army, which is stated to cost 
 16,000,000L I have alluded to this subject in the 
 last chapter, and it will be seen that whatever reduc- 
 tions may be made in the native regiments, the neces- 
 sity of increasing the number of British officers, and of 
 liberally pensioning disbanded sepoys, leaves little 
 hope of much immediate saving. Railways in India 
 have not been as remunerative as might have been 
 expected, but we may hope that as their advantages 
 become more appreciated by the natives, the income 
 derived from this source will increase. We must bear 
 in mind that it is by slow degrees that the Oriental 
 changes his habits, and that it must be the work of 
 time to teach him to make use of the new mode of 
 transit. Another consideration is the great advantage 
 they afford in a strategic point of view. We can now 
 mass our troops on the hills in healthy localities, and be 
 able to bring them to bear at short notice on any 
 point which may be threatened. During the mutiny 
 railways were scarcely known, and regiments had to be 
 transported on the rivers or by dak. Ten thousand 
 men now ought to be equivalent to more than twenty
 
 CALCUTTA AND BUITISH POWER IN INDIA. 215 
 
 thousand iu 1857. This iu itself must be a source of 
 great economj to the Exchequer, and justifies an outlay 
 in their construction. Another consideration is very 
 important. India is liable to famines, and occasionally 
 dearth exists in one province while plenty is found iu 
 the next. It is of vital consequence, in such circum- 
 stances, to have the means of rapidly transporting food 
 to the localities which are threatened. Here, as in other 
 countries, the cost of the earlier railways was large, 
 but this seems inseparable from the difficulties of com- 
 mencing great undertakings. 
 
 The irrigation works in India have been recently 
 attacked by Mr. Dacosta, in a very able pamphlet on 
 Indian Finance, alluded to by Lord George Hamilton in 
 his last Budget speech.® As regards these works, it is 
 to be borne in mind that we are not to be solely guided 
 by financial considerations, and that, when the very 
 existence of the population of a district depends on 
 irrigation, it may sometimes be necessary to construct 
 works which cannot pay. Moreover, though a work 
 may not be in itself remunerative, it may be so by in- 
 creasing the land revenue. The Ganges Canal is an 
 instance which, though only paying 2| per cent, per se, 
 enhances the land revenue so as probably to produce 6. 
 
 The Home charges of the Indian Government de- 
 
 ^ I may mention that, though, in common with several mnch 
 more distinguished men, I recommended Mr. Dacosta's pamphlet 
 to the attention of M.P.'s, as " containing facts which demand 
 the gravest consideration," with some of his conclusions I do 
 not concur.
 
 31G A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 serve to be closely scrutinized. Mr. Fawcett has always 
 urged, and urged with great reason, that many charges 
 are debited to India which ought to be borne by the 
 British Exchequer. The Committee of the House of 
 Commons which sat from 1870 to 1878, owing to the 
 dissolution of Parliament made no report to the 
 House. What the report of that Committee might 
 have been, had they been permitted to make one, may 
 in many points be very doubtful. From what I know 
 of the sentiments of my • colleagues, I believe that, in 
 the question of the Home Charges, they would by a 
 large majority, perhaps unanimously, with the excep- 
 tion of the official members — those who were, who had 
 been, or who expected to be connected with the India 
 Office — have recommended that many of these charges 
 should be transferred to the English Exchequer. The 
 Home Charges are stated to be — 
 
 Interest on debt and guaranteed railways . . £6,850,000 
 
 Pensions, annuities, allowances, and pay . . . 3,000,000 
 Payments to H.M. Treasury on account of the 
 Post OflB.ce and Marine Departments ; for Army 
 
 and Political Missions 820,000 
 
 Troopships and passage of troops 350,000 
 
 Cooper's Hill College 25,000 
 
 Pension to Duleep Singh 19,335 
 
 Annuity to shareholders of the late Red Sea and 
 
 India Telegraph Company 18,000 
 
 Administration, and minor departments . . . 250,000 
 
 Stores for India 3,000,000 
 
 All other payments 2,667,665 
 
 £17,000,000
 
 CALCUTTA AND BEITISH POWEE IN INDIA. 217 
 
 These items ought to be closely examined, with a 
 view of ascertaiuing what portion legitimately belongs 
 to India. There is a great temptation for any Govern- 
 ment to transfer matters, which might give rise to 
 unpleasant discussion in Committee of Supply, to the 
 Indian Exchequer. The ball given to the Sultan is an 
 illustration in point, and the charges of the Prince's visit 
 ought to have been entirely defrayed by England. It is 
 true the Indian Council is supposed to exercise the 
 supervision over finance, which formerly belonged to 
 the Court of Directors, but the position of the two 
 bodies is entirely different. The Court of Directors 
 owed no allegiance to the minister of the day, being 
 elected by a constituency which, whatever its faults, 
 was at least independent. They were therefore able 
 to give an effectual protection to the interests of India, 
 and, in one remarkable case (the recall of Lord Ellen- 
 borough), set at defiance the most powei-ful Government 
 which has existed in England during the present reign. 
 The Council, year by year, becomes more powerless 
 to resist the Secretary of State, who, in his turn, very 
 probably finds himself controlled by his colleague, the 
 Chancellor of the Exchequer. Every Government has 
 a strong interest to withdraw every possible expen- 
 diture from the cognizance of the House of Com- 
 mons, and to transfer it to a body which has no 
 real power. Were the accounts fairly adjusted be- 
 tween the Imperial and the English Governments, 
 I cannot but think that a very large sum would be 
 transferred from the latter to the former, and a pro-
 
 218 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 portional relief be experienced to the finances of the 
 East. 
 
 The depreciation of silver was becoming serious at the 
 time of my visit, and has since been alarming. The in- 
 vestigations of Mr. Goschen's Committee seem to prove 
 that panic was one great element in the fall, and it is 
 to be hoped that with returning prosperity the danger 
 may pass away. Should this not be the case, the 
 problem of East Indian finance will become increas- 
 ingly difficult. Without this disturbing cause the 
 revenue of India shows but little of that elasticity to 
 which we are accustomed in England. As regards the 
 three principal items, one could wish that changes 
 or reductions could be made. Still, should peace 
 continue, and should no unforeseen calamity dis- 
 turb the calculation, the Indian Government are war- 
 ranted in thinking the state of their finances, if not 
 altogether satisfactory, at least gives no cause for grave 
 alarm. 
 
 The condition of the lower classes in India is a 
 matter of great interest. These teeming millions have 
 to look for protection to a paternal Government, and, 
 80 far as Government can protect them, British rule has 
 done so. Our . reign has been a period of peace, and 
 they have been allowed quietly to pursue their humble 
 avocations. Still their lives are spent in the greatest 
 poverty. In the hot climate of India, food is the only 
 necessary of life, but the food they obtain is of the 
 most meagre description. On this subject Sir R. 
 Temple says, " The wages of labour may be generally
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 219 
 
 stated at one to two annas" a day in Behar, two annas in 
 Orissa^ three annas in Northern Bengal, four annas in 
 Central Bengal, five annas in Eastern Bengal, and six 
 annas in Calcutta. During the last generation the rates 
 ranged from one anna at the lowest to three annas at the 
 highest, the lowest being the generally prevalent rate. 
 On the whole, wages of labour have risen almost coinci- 
 dently with the prices of common food. So far, then, we 
 may hope that the lot of the labourer, always very hard, 
 has not become harder of late. But we must sorrow- 
 fully admit that it is almost as hard as can be borne. 
 A plain calculation would show that the wages will 
 suffice for little more than the purchase of food, and 
 leave but a slender margin for his simplest wants. 
 In Behar, indeed, a comparison of prices with wages 
 might indicate that his lot must be hard beyond 
 endurance. It must be remembered, however, that 
 wages are often paid in kind, especially for labour 
 in the fields : the labourer and his family all woi'k ; 
 the man, the woman, and the child receive each a 
 dole of grain enough to sustain life; they could 
 hardly get less now, and probably they never got 
 more. Still, low as the condition of the labourer 
 everywhere is, it is lowest in Behar. The industry and 
 endurance, not only of the men, but of the women and 
 children, in these classes are remarkable. One cause of 
 the lowness of the wages is the comparative inefficiency 
 
 ' Sixteen annas make a rupee ; so, taking the rupee at two 
 shillings, the anna is l^d.
 
 220 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 of tlie labour, wliicli again is caused by tlie low and 
 weak physique of these poor people, by reason of the 
 poverty of their nurture, one cause acting and reacting 
 upon another ; while at the same time, despite the high 
 rate of mortality, the high rate of births more than 
 maintains the total number, which is probably in- 
 creasing rather than decreasing. Another reason is, 
 the large numbers of these people as compared with 
 the employment available. There are three ways in 
 which the condition of these classes can be ameliorated 
 — (1) the increase of employment of various sorts as 
 compared with the labourers ; (2) the facility obtainable 
 by the labourers for transferring their labour from one 
 sphere or from one place to another ; (3) the decrease 
 of the number of the labourers relatively to the em- 
 ployment. In the first two ways we may certainly 
 hope for improvement, which is, indeed, happily per- 
 ceptible already. In the third way, improvement can 
 only come from emigration, which, notwithstanding all 
 our encouragement, is not as yet successful in these 
 provinces. There is a class below even the labourers, 
 namely, those who from infirmity are unable to work, 
 and who have no subsistence save from that charity 
 which is dispensed by all classes of the natives, accord- 
 ing to their several means, with an unfailing generosity 
 which may be counted among their national virtues." 
 
 Such is a feeling description, emanating from the 
 highest authority, of the condition of the poor in 
 Bengal. A stranger in India is struck by the way in 
 which labour is employed where mechanical con-
 
 CALCUTTA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 221 
 
 trivances are substituted in Europe. The streets^ for 
 instance, are watered by coolies, who carry skins for the 
 purpose, and I was informed that this is done because 
 water-carts would be more expensive. The people are 
 so poor and labour is so cheap that human beings 
 become degraded almost to the condition of cattle. 
 No wonder that there is a danger of residents in India, 
 particularly of those who do not feel the responsibility 
 of government, treating them as such. While 1 write, 
 we hear of the case of the manslaughter of a native 
 servant by an Englishman at Agra, and of the energetic 
 Minute the new Viceroy has published on the subject. 
 I think Lord Lytton deserves the gratitude of every 
 friend of humanity for having maintained the principle, 
 not too popular among the unofficial classes in India, 
 that the natives are to be treated with the same con- 
 sideration as Europeans, and deserve the same pro- 
 tection from the law. Those who settle in India with 
 a view of seeking their fortunes are apt to take advan- 
 tage of the poverty of the natives. Our position in 
 Bengal is remarkable. In the North we have to govern 
 men of warlike character ; but the sixty millions of 
 Bengalees — and the same remark applies to other parts 
 of India — have always been ruled by other races, and 
 passively submit to whatever befalls them. Hence the 
 only security for their good government rests in the 
 justice and moderation of the conquering power. Sir 
 Richard Temple seems to pursue the wise policy of 
 freely employing the natives in the public service. 
 Looking at the way in which some of the independent
 
 222 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 States have been governed by native statesmen, espe- 
 cially by Sir Salar Jung and Sir Madova Rao, it is to 
 be wished that more use was made of native talent in 
 the dominions of the Queen. Rules have been sanc- 
 tioned by her Majesty's Government for the admission 
 of natives of tried merit to appointments hitherto 
 reserved for the Covenanted Service, and have been 
 published ; but the Lieutenant-Governor was directed 
 by the Government of India to await further instruc- 
 tions before acting on them. He adds, " On receipt 
 of such instructions I am ready to propose such action 
 as may be necessary, and I trust that some native civil 
 officers will be found who are worthy of the high con- 
 fidence which such selection implies.'^ 
 
 Under the head of " Instruction," Sir Richard Temple 
 in his report gives an interesting account of the posi- 
 tion of education in Bengal. Out of an expenditure of 
 390,000L on education, 220,000L are paid by the Go- 
 vernment of Bengal, and 170,000Z. by the people. The 
 schools are divided into primary, secondary, and supe- 
 rior — generally private — schools, receiving a subsidy 
 from the State on the condition of conforming to certain 
 rules and submitting to Government inspection. A 
 system of scholarships connects one class of schools 
 with the other ; and that system reflects great honour 
 on the Government which has developed it, affording 
 to every class the opportunity of rising in the world. 
 " It has advisedly been made possible for a peasant 
 boy, gifted with genius, learning in the most elemen- 
 tary village school, to win first a primary scholarship
 
 CALCUTrA AND BRITISH POWER IN INDIA. 223 
 
 tenable in a primary school ; tlien to win while there a 
 scholarship tenable in a secondary school ; then to win 
 while there a scholarship tenable in a superior school, 
 teaching up to the standard for entrance examination, 
 and so to pass on to university membership ; then, as 
 an undergraduate, to win a junior scholarship, enabling 
 him to study for and pass the First Arts examination, 
 and to win a senior scholarship, further enabling him to 
 study for and take a degree. All this he, originally 
 destitute of means, may be able to do by State assist- 
 ance ; and if any persons are to be bound by ties of 
 gratitude to a paternal government, he would be one 
 of them. Having taken a degree, he would have a 
 fair prospect of obtaining either a position at the Bar, 
 or a place in the Native Civil Service of Government, 
 either judicial or executive."' 
 
 In the primary schools education is entirely in the 
 vernacular, and includes reading, writing, arithmetic, 
 and simple mensuration. In the secondary schools the 
 instruction is partly in the vernacular and partly in 
 English, and includes the elements of natural phi- 
 losophy, physical science, botany, and chemistry. 
 The latest return shows the number of scholars to 
 be 517,239, of whom 453,578 attended schools where 
 English is not taught. This number may not seem 
 large out of a population of 63,000,000 subject to 
 the Bengal Government, but when we take into 
 account the extreme poverty of the population it 
 assumes a different aspect. 
 
 ' Sir E. Temple's Keport, p. 79.
 
 224 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 The superior instruction, though partly in the ver- 
 nacular, is mainly in English. The upper classes of 
 Bengalees are most desirous to acquire the English 
 language, though among the lower it is not nearly so 
 commonly known as in Madras. Hence the University 
 of Calcutta does not confer degrees in the vernacular 
 or the classical languages of India. Looking at the 
 position which English holds as the language of the 
 governing class, a knowledge of it must be of the 
 utmost consequence to any native who wishes to rise. 
 Hence we find meetiiigs of natives debating complex 
 questions in English which would do no discredit to 
 the most polished assemblies at home. The most 
 superior and intelligent natives, of whom Kristodas 
 Pal may be taken to be intellectually the leader, are 
 most desirous to extend the knowledge of English. 
 His own paper, the Hindoo Patriot, might compare 
 advantageously in its style with many of its contem- 
 poraries in the United Kingdom. 
 
 Of course the position of women must be a bar to 
 thd^ advance of education. The seclusion to which they 
 are condemned by the immemorial custom of the East 
 makes it impossible for the Government to instruct 
 them ; and, when the mother of a family is ignorant, it 
 cannot be expected that her children will be intel- 
 lectual. The zenana missions are trying to improve 
 the condition and education of females, but this must 
 be a work of time. It will be seen by the state- 
 ments which I have quoted that the British Government 
 is earnestly striving to promote education in India.
 
 225 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 
 
 The distance from Howrah to Benares is 475 miles; 
 the fare, 44 rupees 8 annas. Having established my- 
 self in a comfortable carriage, I slept soundly, and next 
 morning found myself traversing a country more 
 picturesque than I expected, as the plains were not 
 bare, and some graceful hills were visible. The line 
 runs at a distance from the river, and traverses the 
 great opium-producing province of Behar. It passes 
 Patna, the great opium depot for Behar; Dinapore, 
 where Henry Martyn long pursued his apostolic 
 labours; and Buxar, where Sir Hector Munro won a 
 great battle. Madras time is generally kept on the 
 Indian railways, I conclude as the most convenient 
 which could be selected, as it is thirty-three minutes 
 behind Calcutta time, seven minutes behind Allahabad, 
 and thirty minutes in advance of Bombay. Sir Richard 
 and Lady Meade were in the train, on their way to 
 Hyderabad, where Sir Richard is appointed Resident. 
 He very kindly invited me to visit him, and I greatly 
 regretted that, having come so far north, and being
 
 226 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 limited for time, I was unable to accept this invitation, 
 which would have enabled me to see something of the 
 administration of one of the most important of the 
 native states. About six in the evening we reached 
 Mogul Serai, whence a branch line of six miles con- 
 ducts to the Ganges, opposite Benares. Here I took a 
 " garry," as the small carriage of the country is called, 
 and crossed the broad stream of the Ganges, which 
 looked beautiful under the light of a crescent moon, by 
 a bridge of boats, which recalled the Rhine. This bridge 
 of boats has to be removed when the river rises to its 
 highest. After passing the bridge, I had to drive some 
 two or three miles to the English cantonment, where I 
 stopped at the United Service Hotel, of which I found 
 myself the sole occupant. At Benares, as in other 
 Indian towns, the Europeans reside outside in canton- 
 ments, frequently some distance off. The Indian hotel 
 system is the same as the American. You are charged 
 so much a day — six rupees in Calcutta* and Bombay, 
 five in the provinces — for board and lodging, including 
 cbota hazi, breakfast, tiffin, and dinner, which you pay 
 whether you take your meals or not. 
 
 January 30th was Sunday, but in the afternoon I 
 took a walk down to the city, passing the Government 
 College — a very fine building — and the garden of 
 Madhu Dass, where Warren Hastings was besieged 
 when he visited the city. The greatest master of 
 English composition in his most elaborate composition 
 has described Benares : — " His (Warren Hastings') 
 first design was on Benares, a city which in wealth.
 
 BENARES^ LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 227 
 
 population, dignity, and sanctity was among tlie fore- 
 most of Asia. It was commonly believed that half a 
 million of human beings was crowded into that laby- 
 rinth of lofty alleys, rich with shrines, and minarets, 
 and balconies, and carved oriels, to which the sacred 
 apes clung by hundreds. The traveller could scarcely 
 make his way through the press of holy mendicants 
 and not less holy bulls. The broad and stately flights 
 of steps which descended from these swarming haunts 
 to the bathing-places along the Ganges were worn 
 every day by the footsteps of an innumerable multitude 
 of worshippers. The schools and temples drew crowds 
 of pious Hindoos from every province where the 
 Bi'ahminical faith was known. Hundreds of devotees 
 came hither every month to die ; for it was believed 
 that a peculiarly happy fate awaited the man who 
 should pass from the sacred city into the sacred river. 
 Nor was superstition the only motive which allured 
 strangers to that great metropolis. Commerce had as 
 many pilgrims as religion. All along the shores of 
 the venerable stream lay great fleets of vessels, laden 
 with rich merchandise. From the looms of Benares 
 went forth the most delicate silks that adorned the 
 balls of St. James's and of Versailles; and in the 
 bazaars the muslins of Bengal and the sabres of Oude 
 were mingled with the jewels of Golconda and the 
 shawls of Cashmere.'" Despite the changes of a cen- 
 tury, much of this description continues to bo true, ;ind 
 the flights of steps are still worn by the feet of 
 innumerable worshippers. Benares, too, has the in- 
 
 q2
 
 228 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 terest of being among the oldest cities in tlie world — 
 perhaps, with the exception of Damascus, the oldest — 
 which continues to be important. It is associated 
 with the history of Buddha, though the religion of the 
 place is no longer the worship of Buddha, but the wor- 
 ship of Brahma. The town consists of a labyrinth of 
 lanes and alleys, possessing innumerable small shrines, 
 through which it is very difficult to find your way. I 
 succeeded in reaching one of the ghauts, or steep flights 
 of steps, down which the people descend to bathe. It 
 had been difficult to get there, but it was still more 
 difficult to get back. However, at last I found myself 
 outside these crowded houses, though I was late for 
 evening service. Benares is more like a Turkish town 
 than any I have visited, as Indian streets are generally 
 wide. I dined with the Commissioner and Mrs. Car- 
 michael, who escaped in great peril from their station 
 to the hills in the time of the mutiny. Late in the 
 evening the Maharajah of Benares, attended by two of 
 his suite, called to take leave of Mr. Carmichael, who 
 was starting next day on one of those circuits or tours 
 of inspection which high Indian officials annually make. 
 In the North a commissioner is appointed, having 
 several collectors subordinate to him. The Maharajah 
 was very courteous, invited me to visit him, and took 
 me back to my hotel. Though he speaks no English, 
 he is a member of the Viceroy's Legislative Council. 
 He is a descendant of the celebrated Cheyte Sing. 
 
 Next morning Mr. Carmichael, though the pre- 
 parations for his journey must have made it particularly
 
 BENARESj LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AXD AGRA. 229 
 
 inconvenient to him, had the great kindness to take me 
 to the city. It is curious to see elephants and camels 
 both employed in carrying loads. The number of small 
 shrines is endless, as they are encountered at every 
 turn, but neither the Hindoo temples nor the Moham- 
 medan mosques are very large. The Golden Temple, 
 though small, is handsome, despite the dirt, and the 
 crowd of pilgrims and the " holy bulls " present a 
 curious scene. We visited the palace of the Maharajah 
 of Vizieruagram, one of the most prominent of the 
 natives of India at the present time. He is the ruler 
 of a small principality in Madras, a member of the 
 Viceroy's Council, and a Eesident in the holy city of 
 Benares. In each capacity he was incessant in paying 
 his homage to the Prince of Wales. Personally I was 
 much indebted to his Highness, as he lent us a carriage 
 (the Commissioner's equipages having started on cir- 
 cuit) and a steam-launch to sail up and down the 
 Ganges. This is the most wonderful sight of Benares, 
 and certainly presents a magnificent spectacle. The 
 splendid river sweeps past the city, which stands on 
 elevated ground on the left bank. This plateau is 
 covered with temples, with a few mosques and minarets 
 interspersed. The ghauts descend from it, and the 
 deluded Hindoos come pouring down in thousands, 
 vainly thinking to wash away their sins in the sacred 
 stream. In one place fires are lighted, consuming the 
 bodies of the dead, whose ashes are thrown into the 
 Ganges. Three or four of these pyres were blazing 
 as we passed. The magnificent river and the pic-
 
 230 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 turesque buildings form a beautiful scene, which 
 is made more striking by tlie crowd of worshippers ; 
 but it is sad to contemplate the folly to which 
 idolatry reduces its victims. May a merciful God 
 speedily bless the proclamation of His Gospel to 
 those poor deluded creatures ! 
 
 We sailed down nearly to the bridge of boats, 
 and on our return noticed the window from which 
 Cheyte Sing escaped. After enjoying this wonder- 
 ful sail, we landed opposite the fine fort of Eam- 
 nuggar, belonging to the Maharajah of Benares, 
 and visited the temple where the sacred monkeys 
 reside, which is one of the most curious sights of 
 the holy city. Tlie Hindoos think it wrong to kill 
 them, and consequently they accumulate till they con- 
 stitute a nuisance to the neighbourhood. The same 
 phenomenon is seen at the rock at Trichinopoly. Near 
 this are stones marking the spots where Hindoo widows 
 have committed Suttee. Benares is the metropolis of 
 Brahminism, the great seat of Hindoo learning. There 
 may be more splendid structures in the South, but the 
 Hindoo everywhere looks with peculiar veneration to 
 the holy city. The tide of Mohammedan conquest 
 swept over it, but it still continued the peculiar seat 
 of the ancient faith. After taking leave of my kind 
 friend, I called on my way to the station on Mr. 
 Sherring, whom I was not fortunate enough to find at 
 home. This I much regretted, as I had been at college 
 with him, and should like to have seen him, after so 
 many years. He is now an eminent missionary, and
 
 BENARES, LDCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 2ol 
 
 the great authority on all that concerns the history 
 and antiquities of Benares. 
 
 There is no railway bridge across the Ganges at 
 Benares. The East Indian railway, by which I arrived, 
 only goes to the southern bank, opposite the city. The 
 Oude and Rohilcund, by which I left, leaves the town 
 and keeps the north bank. The great road con- 
 structed by the Company from Calcutta to Peshawur 
 passes through Benares. The Oude and Rohilcund is 
 a thoroughly plebeian line — made for the people. It 
 extends from Benares to Allyghur, a distance of 449 
 miles, with a branch to Cawnpore. It has only two 
 classes, called the upper and lower. The upper charges 
 about l^d. a mile, and the lower ^d. The latter was 
 pretty full, but for some distance I was sole occupant of 
 the former. I was, however, joined by a Scotchman, 
 who appeared to be the superintendent of the engine- 
 drivers, who was eloquent on the impropriety of teach- 
 ing natives to drive engines. His view seemed to be 
 that India is to be farmed for the benefit of the English, 
 and that it is the privilege of a Briton to come out 
 and wring as much as he can out of the natives. For 
 this purpose the Hindoo is to be kept down in every 
 possible way, so that he may neither compete with his 
 master in profitable occupations, nor attempt to disturb 
 his rule of the country. My friend was a fair specimen 
 of a large class who come to India — men often distin- 
 guished by correct and virtuous conduct in their inter- 
 course with their own countrymen, but who regard 
 the Hindoo as an inferior animal, to be trodden down
 
 232 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINAj AND INDIA. 
 
 for their own advantage. The antipathy justly excited 
 against such people in the minds of the natives is one 
 of the difficulties with which the enlightened statesmen 
 who govern India have to contend. The travelling on 
 the Oude and Rohilcund is not rapid, being only at the 
 rate of fifteen miles an hour ; so^ having started at 
 two, it was not till 11 p.m. that we reached Fyzabad, 
 120 miles, where I got a late dinner. Fyzabad was 
 the old capital of Oude, and was the residence of 
 Sujah Dowlah, the Nabob Vizier, with whom Hastings 
 contracted his infamous treaty in regard to the Rohil- 
 las. After his son, Asaph-ul-Dowlah, built Lucknow, 
 it continued to be the residence of the Begums or 
 Princesses of Oude, whose misfortunes were immor- 
 t alized by the eloquence of Sheridan. 
 
 At 5 a.m. on the morning of February 1, 1 found my- 
 self approaching Lucknow, where I took up my quarters 
 at the Imperial Hotel, near the Kaiserbagh. The 
 weather was very warm, which was a change, as at Cal- 
 cutta the climate had been delightful, and punkahs were 
 quite dispensed with. Captain Fendall Currie, a son of 
 Sir Frederick Currie, the last Chairman of the East India 
 Company, most kindly showed me the town. Luck- 
 now is beautifully situated on the shores of the Goomti, 
 and the fine trees which surround it formed a pleasing 
 contrast to the parched plains over which the railway 
 is carried. The family which long ruled over Oude, and 
 which ultimately was permitted by the Company to 
 assume the royal title, was Mussulman. Hence the 
 city which they erected naturally attracted Mussulmen.
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 233 
 
 It grew rapidly, and is now the fourth city in India, 
 with a population of 350/JOO. These people are mostly 
 Mohammedans, though the inhabitants of the country 
 districts are Hindoos. The House of Oude were among 
 the worst of the rulers of India. The greatest blots on 
 the escutcheon of Warren Hastings are his transactions 
 in league with them. In subsequent days their mis- 
 government and their vices were a source of constant 
 anxiety to the Company, and the ablest Indian diplo- 
 matists found themselves unable to secure justice to 
 their subjects. At length Lord Dalhousie, no doubt 
 without reluctance, as the transaction was in accord- 
 ance with his general policy, decided that misrule had 
 reached such a pitch in the unhappy kingdom, that it 
 was necessary for the happiness of the population to 
 depose a monarch who neglected his duties and devoted 
 his time to the most cruel amusements, and to transfer 
 his subjects to the dominion of the Company. It was 
 a curious coincidence that at the very same moment 
 popular feeling in England was denouncing the Emperor 
 Nicholas in the most energetic language, because he 
 asserted that the crimes and the misgovernment of the 
 Turks gave foreign nations a right to interfere. As it 
 was thought convenient to pursue one policy as regards 
 Russia, and another as regards Oude, we did not 
 trouble ourselves about consistency. 
 
 Lord Dalhousie carried out his policy, and probably 
 the result may have been to 'promote the peace and 
 prosperity of the ryots of Oude, but it was the precursor 
 of that fearful outbreak which shook the British
 
 234 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Empire to its foundations. The Mohammedans had 
 always chafed under the rule of the English, and when 
 one of their greatest houses was dethroned, no matter 
 how great crimes it had committed, they resolved to 
 resist. When we are told by the advocates of Turkey 
 that we are bound to defend that decaying Empire to 
 conciliate the Mohammedans of India, we may remind 
 them that the great outbreak of 1857 followed closely 
 on the Crimean war. The fact is, that it is only 
 a proportion of the Mussulmen of India who ac- 
 knowledge the Sultan as Caliph. The propriety of 
 the annexation of Oude was much debated at the time, 
 one party insisting on the immorality of undisguised 
 conquest, the other asserting that the misgovernment 
 of the king was so atrocious, that it left us no alterna- 
 tive. I well recollect, shortly after the mutiny, in the 
 spring of 1858, dining with a great Indian statesman, 
 now long gone to his rest, and saying to him, " I 
 suppose you think you had no alternative except 
 to annex Oude?'' His reply struck and surprised 
 me : " We thought so at the time, but I think if we 
 had to do it again we should find many reasons why 
 it was not necessary." 
 
 The Kaiserbagh, or old palace of the kings, is now 
 used by the talookdars, or landed gentry, on their 
 visits to Lucknow. It is an enormous collection of 
 rather tawdry buildings, in a dilapidated condition. 
 The great object of interest is, of course, the Resi- 
 dency where Sir Henry Lawrence defended himself 
 till he died of his wounds, where Inglis continued the
 
 BENAEES, LUCKNOWj DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 2o5 
 
 defence, where Havelock and Outram, coming up, were 
 in their turn besieged, and where Colin Campbell, Lord 
 Clyde, ultimately released the harassed garrison. The 
 hill on which it stood is turned into a garden, and every 
 effort is made to protect and preserve the different 
 places of interest, though the ruins suffer from the 
 tropical rains. Inscriptions state what happened in 
 each spot. Here is the banqueting-hall, which was 
 turned into a hospital. Here is the doctor^s house, 
 where Lawrence breathed his last. Here is his grave, 
 marked by the inscription, " Here lies Henry Lawrence, 
 who tried to do his duty.^^ Here is a monument to 
 the brave men who fell. Wandering through the 
 grounds, one everywhere encounters inscriptions to 
 soldiers and civilians, their wives and children, who 
 perished in that terrible siege — a siege which must 
 always count among the most glorious episodes in Eng- 
 lish history — an episode never to be forgotten while 
 the services of the British army in the Peninsula, at 
 Waterloo, and in the Crimea are remembered by a 
 grateful country. I much regretted not getting to the 
 Alumbagh, a few miles off, where, on the retreat of 
 Sir Colin CampbelFs army after the relief of the Resi- 
 dency, Havelock died and was buried. I should like 
 to have seen the grave of a hero, of whom, in the elo- 
 quent words of the Times, " we think as we think of 
 Wolff on the heights of Abraham, of Abercromby on 
 the Egyptian sands, and of Moore on the cliffs of 
 Corunna.^' He was not only a hero, but a Christian ; 
 and his memory must ever be dear to his country.
 
 230 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 I dined with Captain and Mrs. Curriej who previously 
 drove me to the Wingfield Park, laid out by Sir Charles 
 Wingfield, when Chief Commissioner of Oude ; to the 
 Martiniere, a great school founded by General Martini, 
 who, having made a large fortune in the service of the 
 Nabobs some fifty years ago, bequeathed it for the pur- 
 pose of establishing educational institutions in Luck- 
 now, Calcutta, and his native city of Toulouse ; and to 
 the Club, which the large English community — ladies 
 as well as gentlemen — frequent, which is situated on 
 the beautiful banks of the troomti. The province of 
 Oude is governed by a Commissioner, who is indepen- 
 dent of the Lieutenant-Governor of the North-West 
 Provinces. Like Burmah, Scinde, and some other pro- 
 vinces, it constitutes an independent government. The 
 talookdars, or landowners, pay a heavy rent to the 
 Government, which is assessed for a period of thirty 
 years, when it is readjusted. Sir George Cooper, the 
 Commissioner, was at this time absent on one of those 
 tours of inspection which Indian Commissioners take 
 through their provinces, moving about in tents, with all 
 their suite. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 2nd, Captain Currie took me 
 on an elephant to the native town. Riding an elephant 
 is amusing, though for a long distance it must be 
 fatiguing. They seem to be expensive luxuries, as I 
 was told they cost six rupees a day to keep. Placed 
 in a houdah on his back, we enjoyed a magnificent view 
 of the mosques, tombs, minarets, and domes, rising in 
 all directions amid luxuriant vegetation. The native
 
 BENAEESj LUCKNOW^ DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 237 
 
 town is dirty, like other Eastern cities, but the scenes 
 in its streets are striking and picturesque. This vast 
 city has grown up within the last century, and though 
 the buildings are not substantial, they look very mag- 
 nificent. We visited a mosque, or, as they call it here, 
 a musjid, where great preparations were being made 
 for an illumination the following evening, in commemo- 
 ration of the Mohurrun, the great Persian festival 
 which recalls the murder of Hussein, the grandson of 
 the Prophet. I regretted that I could not remain to 
 witness what thousands of coloured lamps must have 
 constituted a most brilliant sight. In the fort is a 
 room, said to be the largest in the world — larger than 
 that at Padua. Unfortunately it is closed early in the 
 afternoon, so I had to be content with contemplating ifc 
 from outside. The utility of the fort in a military 
 point of view is said to be a disputed point among 
 authorities on such questions. 
 
 After taking leave of my kind friend, I left Lucknow 
 in the evening for Delhi, taking the Oude and Rohil- 
 cund railway to Allyghur. In the train I met an opium 
 agent, who told me that Oude produces 11,000 maunds 
 of opium, nearly a quarter of the Bengal production. 
 This goes to Gazeepore, where the Government opium- 
 buildings for the province of Benares are situated. I 
 find it admitted that it is impossible to prevent opium 
 being sold illicitly, and hence it is producing demoraliza- 
 tion among our own subjects. We passed Bareilly in 
 the night, and breakfasted at Chandausi. The railway 
 runs through Rohilcund, whose annexation to Oude is
 
 238 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 the most infamous transaction in the history of Warren 
 Hastings. It crosses the Ganges Canal and the irriga- 
 tion channels in connexion with it. From the slow 
 pace at which we travelled, I was afraid of missing the 
 East Indian train, but we arrived just in time. At the 
 old fortress of Allyghur the Oude and Rohilcund meets 
 the East Indian Eailway. Here I took a return ticket 
 to Lahore, with liberty to stop at any place I liked. 
 The Indian lines are liberal in their arrangements 
 about return tickets. The East Indian is a great con- 
 trast to the Oude and Rohilcund, as it travels at a good 
 speed, and with greater luxury. At Gazeeabad, where 
 the direct line proceeds to Lahore and Mooltan, you 
 chauo-e trains for Delhi, which is thirteen miles distant. 
 The city looks striking as it is approached across the 
 Jumna. At Delhi I took up my quarters at the dak 
 bungalow. These dak bungalows are established by 
 Government along the main roads. In many places 
 they are a convenience, as they provide lodging and 
 food at fixed prices. In Delhi, I think, I should have 
 done better to go to a regular hotel, especially as the 
 weather was cold. This was a great advantage, as I 
 was able to go about all day, and no longer compelled 
 to waste several hours indoors. Though the North- 
 West Provinces enjoy a bracing climate in winter, I 
 understood that they suffer from heat in summer to a 
 much greater extent than Calcutta or Madras. 
 
 The city of Delhi is remarkable in Indian history, 
 but chiefly remarkable for the heroism which recovered 
 it to England in 1857. It was the Mohammedan capital
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI^ LAHORE, AND AGRA. 239 
 
 of India. The tide of Mussulman conquest swept over 
 tlie North, but the power of the Crescent spent itself as 
 it approached Cape Comorin. Hence its interests are 
 all Mohammedan, while in the great cities of the South 
 the remains are Hindoo. It is true there is a larere 
 Hindoo population, but it is a population over which 
 the Mussulman had ruled for centuries. It followed 
 that when the mutiny broke out — which, though joined 
 in by the Hindoo sepoys, had been mainly organized by 
 the Mohammedans — the first object of the rebels — an 
 object which they successfully accomplished — was the 
 seizm'e of Delhi, and the proclamation of the effete 
 monarch whom the Company had continued nominally 
 to recognize. The recapture of the city re-established 
 British supremacy in India. 
 
 On February 4 I called on Colonel Cracrof t, the Com- 
 missioner, who sent an old chuprassi, who had fought 
 for the English in the siege, to show me the city. The 
 district of Delhi has, since the mutiny, been removed 
 from the government of the North-West, and added to 
 the Punjaub. Lord Napier had lately been entertaining 
 the Prince of Wales, and great reviews had been held 
 to enable him to inspect the sepoy army, on whom he 
 made a most favourable impression by the kindness he 
 showed them. 
 
 The fort, which contains the palace of the Moguls, is 
 very extensive. It is entered by two gates, called the 
 Delhi and Lahore gates. The road through the latter 
 leads into a curious corridor, above which the oflScer 
 in command was murdered in the mutiny j as the Com-
 
 240 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 pany maintained a guard round the person of the great 
 Mogul. The place is now turned into barracks. Thechief 
 points of interest are tlip Dewan Aam, or Hall of Public 
 Audience, which is open on three sides, and supported 
 by pillars ; the Dewan Khass, or Hall of Private Audience, 
 a pavilion of white marble, where the Peacock Throne, 
 of solid gold, formerly stood ; the Pearl Mosque, a sort 
 of Court chapel, and the king^s baths of marble. 
 These halls are not very large, and are now falling 
 into decay ; but in the days when those who were 
 familiar with the glories of the Grand Monarque at 
 Versailles were struck with wonder at their magni- 
 ficence, they must have been very gorgeous. 
 
 The Jumma Musjid, or great Mosque, is situated on an 
 elevated plateau. Three gates are reached by a high 
 flight of steps, and lead into a magnificent court, on 
 the west side of which the musjid is placed. A fine 
 marble reservoir stands in the centre of the court, 
 while two minarets flank the mosque. These command 
 a very extensive view, though a strong wind raised 
 the dust, and prevented it being as good as usual. 
 The long corridor of the musjid, of white marble, 
 curiously inlaid, is very fine, but the great feature is 
 the splendid quadrangle. The handwriting of Ali and 
 Hussein is shown, as also a hair from the beard of 
 Mohammed, but I had not sufiicient reverence for the 
 memory of the prophet to care to see it. The Chandni 
 Chouk, or great native street, is the habitation of 
 jewellers and shawl merchants. In the afternoon I 
 drove to the ridge, whence the attack on the town 
 
 I
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LA.HORE, AND AGRA. 211 
 
 was commenced, wliich commands a fine view. It is 
 marked by a monument to the heroes who, despite 
 the tremendous odds against them, maintained the 
 honour of the British arms. I next visited the cemetery, 
 where many of those brave men sleep, particularly 
 General Nicholson, who fell leading his men to the 
 final assault in the moment of victory. 
 
 Delhi possesses a fine museum and extensive public 
 gardens. I took a walk by moonlight, and saw musi- 
 cians perambulating the streets in honour of the 
 Mohurrun. It was curious to find the cold make one's 
 fingers dead after the heat of Lucknow. My native 
 guide looked perished with cold. 
 
 Next morning I drove to the Kootub Minar, a pillar 
 
 eleven miles from Delhi. The road lies through a district 
 
 " Where kings, in dusky darkness hid, 
 Have left a nameless pyramid." 
 
 The whole region is crowded with tombs and ruins 
 
 of tombs. There are tombs of emperors, there are 
 
 tombs of viziers, and there are tombs of which the 
 
 origin cannot be discovered. The ride recalls the 
 
 Appian Way, though the tombs are larger and finer. 
 
 The famous monument of Cecilia Metella would here look 
 
 small. This scene, however, despite the glories of those 
 
 great men and wise rulers, Baber and Akbar, has not 
 
 the associations with our earliest years which gives 
 
 such a charm to the Roman road. This is no place 
 
 " Where each old poetic mountain 
 Inspiration breathes around, 
 Every shade and hallow'd foiintain 
 Murmurs deep a solemn sound." 
 
 B
 
 242 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 These stones^ thougli some may cover tlie aslies of men 
 wlio governed wisely and well, for the most part tell a 
 tale of oriental treachery and oriental cruelty. The 
 Kootubj which is surrounded by a pretty garden, 
 is a pillar which rises 238 feet above the level of the 
 ground, has five galleries around it, and is ascended by 
 377 steps. Its origin is obscure, and it is a matter of 
 controversy whether it was erected by the Hindoos or 
 the Mohammedans. The view from the summit is very 
 extensive over arid plains, which are lost in the dis- 
 tance, with endless ruins spread at your feet, and 
 Delhi in the distance. A cold wind was blowing, which 
 seemed to shake the pillar, and prevented my enjoying 
 the view. Opposite the Kootub is a large unfinished 
 minar, or pillar, and around are several objects of in- 
 terest. A great mosque with five arches, in the court 
 of which • stands a remarkable iron pillar, the beau- 
 tiful gateway of Alaoodeen, and the tombs of Iman 
 Zamin and Adam Khan are in the grounds. Near 
 this is the diving well, a pool eighty feet deep, into 
 which a boy jumped from a considerable height. On 
 my return I visited the tomb of Seftir Jung, a large 
 structure in imitation of the Taj at Agra, now in bad 
 preservation, a curious hall under twenty-five domes, 
 a cemetery, containing the tombs of several royal and 
 distinguished personages, some of them very ornate 
 and beautiful, and the tomb of the Emperor Humayoon. 
 The last is an enormous building, with a marble dome 
 raised upon two magnificent terraces, which give it a 
 grand appearance. On our return we passed Perrana,
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 213 
 
 an old ruined city, built on some rocks above the plain. 
 The number of ruined cities around Delbi show the 
 changes which have taken place in the district. 
 
 In the afternoon I left Delhi for Mussouri, as I was 
 anxious to see a hill station. The principal of these 
 are Darjeeling, Nynee Tal, Mussouri, and Simla. Of 
 these I should apprehend that Darjeeling, the summer 
 residence of the Governor of Bengal, is the best worth 
 a visit, as it commands a view of Mount Everest, the 
 highest mountain in the world. Mussouri, however, 
 is the most accessible, and on that account I was re- 
 commended to visit it. 
 
 The Scinde, Punjaub, and Delhi Railway extends 
 from Delhi and Gazeeabad to -Lahore, and is con- 
 tinued to Mooltan. The line is the same as the 
 East Indian to Gazeeabad, from whence I proceeded 
 to Saharunpore. The train seemed full of ladies 
 and gentlemen who had been stopping at Delhi 
 during the time of the Prince's visit. We passed 
 Meerut, the great military station of this part of India, 
 memorable as the scene of the outbreak of the mutiny. 
 I had thought of spending Sunday at Saharunpore, 
 but, finding from a clergyman I met in the train that 
 there was no service there, but that there was a church 
 at Mussouri, I decided to push on ; so, getting a hasty 
 supper at the station, I took my place in the mail-cart, 
 which started at 11 p.m. The mail-cart was not the 
 most luxurious conveyance I ever travelled in, and as 
 the night was cold it was necessary to submit to a little 
 inconvenience, especially as we were only protected by 
 
 R 2
 
 244 A VISIT TO JAPA^^^ CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 curtains. However^ it was a beautiful moonlight night, 
 and the road was good. We saw the cart going the 
 other way upset, but the people did not appear to be 
 hurt. We crossed several streams and a range of hills 
 before reaching the town of Deyra, where a young 
 gentleman who had been my companion from Saharun- 
 pore stopped. After a cold and sleepless night, I 
 reached Eajpore at 5 a.m., where the mail-cart stops, and 
 where I got from the Victoria Hotel a pony to take me 
 up the mountain to Mussouri, a lovely ride. I reached 
 the Himalaya Hotel in time for church, after which I 
 enjoyed a view of the snowy range from a hill behind the 
 town. In the evening I walked to a convent, which 
 commanded an extensive mountain view. The long lines 
 of charcoal fires burnt in the valleys looked pictu- 
 resque as I returned after dark. The villages which 
 make up the Mussouri station extend over a range of 
 hills. Mussouri stands in the middle at a height of 
 6500 feet ; Landour, to the east, which is the highest, 
 is 7300; and the convent, of which I did not learn 
 the height, is to the west. All these hills are covered 
 with detached villas and buildings. Mussouri does 
 not, like some of the other hill stations, enjoy the 
 advantage of the summer residence of a Governor, 
 though it is, however, frequented. High -class schools 
 have been established here to save Indians from send- 
 ing their children home for education. On Monday 
 morning I walked up to Landour, where is a station 
 for invalided soldiers. Here I spent an hour enjoying 
 the view. To the south are wooded hills sloping down
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 245 
 
 to the vast ludian plains, which, though to a certain 
 extent destitute of that verdure which gives such a 
 charm to the Itahan valleys, are nevertheless very 
 beautiful. To the north is the snowy range of the 
 Himalayas, spreading round about one-third of the 
 horizon. These magnificent mountains, some of which 
 reminded me of Monte Rosas, the Breithorn, and Les 
 Jumeaux, though not as high as those near Darjeeling, 
 rise to the height of 25,000 feet. The panorama, 
 though not superior to many I have seen in Switzer- 
 land, is magnificent and grand. It seems a pity the 
 Alpine Club do not direct their attention to these 
 gigantic summits. After enjoying this wonderful 
 prospect, I strolled down through the woods to Raj- 
 pore, where, as well as at Landour, the Mohammedans 
 were celebrating the Mohurrun by processions and 
 music. At Raj pore I hired a conveyance to take me 
 through the night to Roorkee. It was a kind of 
 palanquin placed on wheels, and as it shut up, and I 
 could lay down, I passed a comfortable night. The 
 distance is forty-nine miles, most of the way along 
 the same road constructed by the Company, which I 
 had traversed before. The drivers push their horses 
 along, though changing is a slow process. 
 
 I arrived about 7 a.m. on the morning of the 8th 
 at Roorkee, where I was most kindly entertained 
 at the Thomason College by Captain and Mrs. Cun- 
 ningham. The Thomason College was named after 
 Mr. Thomason, formerly Lieutenant-Governor of the 
 North- West Provinces, and is an institution where
 
 216 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINAj AND INDIA. 
 
 students, whether Europeans, East Indians^ or natives, 
 are instructed in engineering. It is officered by Eoyal 
 Engineers — Major Lang, the Principal, Captain Cun- 
 ningham, the Vice-Principal, and their assistants, all 
 belonging to that corps. It is one of those institutions 
 which reflect much honour on the Indian Government, 
 while the progress made by the students does much 
 credit to the heads of the college. I was shown the 
 Government workshops by Mr. Campbell, the Super- 
 intendent. They are very extensive, employing ] 000 
 natives. 
 
 Sir William Muir had strongly advised me to see the 
 Ganges Canal, and particularly the works between 
 Hurdwar and Roorkee. With this object I started at 
 night, in a dooly, a sort of palanquin, slung from a 
 pole carried by two men before, and two behind. I 
 had eight bearers at a rupee each, who took turns. 
 I was interested in the expedition, as it was a specimen 
 of the old mode of travelling in India. You recline 
 at full length, and though in a long journey it would 
 be uncomfortable not to be able to sit up, yet in 
 travelling by night, when one wants to sleep, it is 
 pleasant enough. At Myapoor, two miles from Hurd- 
 war, where the dam and the regulator for the canal 
 are placed, my dooly stopped ; but I preferred remain- 
 ing in it for the rest of the night, as I was very 
 sleepy. Myapoor is the scene of a great decennial 
 fair, where holy dervishes resort, and sit on pillars, 
 which are shown. 
 
 I rose at dawn, and walked on to Hurdwar, a holy
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOWj DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGHA. 217 
 
 city of tlie Hindoos; from its temples, sliops, stalls, 
 and strange costumes, more thoroughly Indian than any 
 I had seen. It was curious to be among a crowded 
 population, unable to speak a word in common with any 
 one. Here the Ganges comes rushing out of a ravine 
 in the mountains with great velocity, and crowds of de- 
 luded heathen here, as at Benares, come to the bathing- 
 ghaut, thinking to wash away their sins in the sacred 
 stream. The outsides of the temples are curiously 
 carved and painted, and the people thronging the 
 streets present a picturesque appearance. I enjoyed 
 wandering through this interesting city, and then re- 
 turned to Myapoor, where Lieutenant Clibborn, an 
 officer engaged on the canal, hospitably entertained me. 
 While we were at breakfast, news was brought that 
 an elephant, riderless, and covered with blood, had 
 come to a place near. It was feared that a tiger had 
 attacked the party upon him and killed them. I after- 
 wards understood that the account here given me was in 
 the Allahabad paper ; but it did not state whether the 
 fate of the poor riders had been ascertained, and I 
 never heard. 
 
 Lieutenant Clibborn took me in his boat to Pathu, 
 about half way to Roorkee, whence I proceeded in 
 the dooly. He told me, and it is an illustration of 
 the extreme cheapness of labour in India, that natives 
 placed in very responsible positions on the canal — in 
 fact, on whose care and coolness the safety of this great 
 work depends — only get six rupees a month. Labour 
 would seem to be much cheaper here than in Bengal.
 
 248 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHIXAj AND INDIA. 
 
 The Ganges Canal was one of the most wonderful 
 works of John Company, and effectually disposes of 
 the allegation that that much-abused individual was 
 indifferent to his duties as a ruler. It was constructed 
 by Colonel Sir Proby Cautley, and was opened in 
 1854. The regulator at Myapoor controls the quantity 
 of water which enters the canal, which is a large body 
 of water running^ three miles an hour. A few miles 
 lower vv^e turned into a side canal, constructed with 
 locks for traffic, though it is not much used for this 
 pm-pose. In several places the water rushes through 
 weirs constructed for the purpose, while in others 
 torrents, which in the wet season are large and power- 
 ful, are carried over the canal on aqueducts. Several 
 fine bridges span the canal. At thirteen miles from 
 Myapoor, and six from Eoorkee, it makes a bend, and 
 soon afterwards a river is allov. ed, when necessary, 
 to cross it on a level, which is considered a wonderful 
 triumph of engineering skill. In other places, and 
 particularly on approaching Roorkee, the canal is 
 carried on aqueducts over streams. Though the chief 
 works are between Myapoor and Eoorkee, it extends to 
 Cawnpore, over 300 miles below. It has 654 miles 
 of main channel, and 3040 of distributing lines. It 
 cost 22,800,000 rupees, and brings in a net income of 
 543,000 rupees, or about 2^ per cent.,^ though pro- 
 bably, taking into account the increase of the land 
 
 1 I quote the figures as they were given me at Eoorkee. I 
 see Mr. Thornton, C.B., represents tlie canal as yielding 4"88 
 per cent.
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 249 
 
 revenue, it pays 6 per cent. Wlietlier it pays or 
 not financially, there can be no question that it pro- 
 motes the prosperity of the people. 
 
 I reached the college in time for dinner, and, on the 
 morning of the 10th, Major Lang, who had been on a 
 tour with some of his pupils, returned. He is a dis- 
 tinguished ofiicer, who was engaged in the siege of 
 Delhi and in the relief and capture of Lucknow. His 
 wife and children were away in England, and he was 
 only one of many I met whom public duty retains in 
 India at a distance from their families. We do not 
 sufficiently appreciate the sacrifices made by those who 
 serve their country in the East. In the afternoon I 
 took leave of my hospitable friends, and proceeded by 
 dak to Saharunpore, thirty miles off, where I arrived 
 about 9 p.m., and proceeded through the night to 
 Lahore. We passed Umballa, the station whence the 
 Calcutta grandees take dak for Simla — the Viceroy^s 
 hill station, and Loodiana, the great missionary 
 station, and crossed the Sutlej, the river which was 
 our boundary before Sir John Hobhouse forced on 
 the Affghan War. About eleven next day I arrived at 
 Lahore, where I stopped at Clai-k's Hotel. 
 
 Lahore was the capital of Kunjeet Sing, and, since the 
 subjugation of the Punjaub, has been the chief city of 
 that province. It was here that Sir John (now Lord) 
 Lawrence ruled during the mutiny ; here he maintained 
 tranquillity among the warlike population, and hence 
 he sent forth the battalions which retook Delhi. It is 
 situated on the Eavee, one of the five rivers from which
 
 250 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 the country receives the name of the Punjaub, pun 
 meaning five. In approaching, you pass Meean Meer, a 
 great encampment for troops, and see many large tombs. 
 Like other Indian cities, the European population reside 
 in bungalows covering a large space. The cantonment 
 possesses a large hall and a museum of curiosities. The 
 native town has the houses built close together like the 
 cities of the Levant, unlike any I have seen in India 
 except Benares. On its further side are the mosque, 
 the fort, and the gardens and tomb of Runjeet Sing. 
 The mosque, though very much out of repair, is fine, 
 with an enormous quadrangle. The minarets are heavy 
 towers, very different to the graceful structures one 
 admires in Constantinople and Damascus. The gardens 
 and tomb of Hunjeet Sing are situated between the 
 mosque and the fort. In the midst of the gardens, 
 which are pretty, is a sort of kiosk, which I was told 
 was the Princess reading-room. It is of beautiful 
 marble. The tomb is close to the wall and is very 
 splendid. The body reposes under a dais, over which 
 is a marble dome, with paintings by native artists, and 
 gilt outside. The priests who surrounded it seemed in- 
 terested to hear that I often saw his son in London. 
 The fort contains his palace, which has some rooms 
 gorgeously painted. It is a very extensive range of 
 buildings, now turned into a citadel, with barracks 
 in which both British troops and Seiks are quartered. 
 The view from the top is very pretty, extending over 
 boundless plains. On every side are tombs and 
 Oriental buildings, while the native city lies below on
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 251 
 
 one side, and the river at a little distance on the 
 other. 
 
 At dinner at the hotel I met Major Harrington, the 
 Commissioner of Gujranwala, who recommended me to 
 see the bridge over the Chenab at Wazirabad, recently 
 opened by the Prince, and kindly wrote to his deputy 
 there to make arrangements. I accordingly started 
 early on the 12th by the Punjaub Northern Eailway, a 
 narrow-gauge line, which is to be superseded by a 
 broad-gauge, now making. The railway follows for 
 sixty-two miles the line of the Company's great road 
 from Calcutta to Peshawur, and runs over vast barren 
 plains. It was curious to watch the long strings of 
 camels proceeding along the road. We passed a native 
 regiment on march. Gujranwala is a town of 50,000 
 inhabitants, which looked fine. At Wazii-abad I was 
 met by Syed, the Mohammedan deputy collector, who 
 very kindly accompanied me across the bridge. As I 
 had only two hours to see the bridge I was anxious to 
 have taken a trolly and gone, but Mr. Danvers, the 
 Government Director of Indian Railways, was on a tour 
 of inspection, and of course everything had to give way. 
 He had a special train over the bridge, in which he 
 allowed us to ride. The Punjaub rivers in the dry sea- 
 son have but little water; but when the floods come 
 down from the mountains, they run with great velocity 
 and frequently change their channels. Hence the ne- 
 cessity of very long and strong bridges. The one in 
 question over the Chenab, which is built on piers 
 stretching across the wide bed of the river, is a mile
 
 252 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 and three quarters long — witli the exception of that 
 of the Grand Trunk Eailway of Canada over the St. 
 Lawrence, the longest in the world. It commands a 
 fine view of the snowy range of the Himalayas. Having 
 crossed in the Director's carriage, which stopped for 
 the party to examine everything, we procured a trolly 
 to take us back. These trollies, which are driven by 
 coolies at a great pace, are much used on this line. On 
 the return we were in considerable danger. Some 
 native workmen had left a piece of wood on the road, 
 which threw our trolly off the line. As the bottom of 
 the road is open, we ran a risk of falling between the 
 timbers and being dashed against the piers of the 
 bridge. By the great mercy of our Heavenly Father 
 we alighted on our feet unhurt, and, getting into another 
 trolly, returned safe to Wazirabad. Meantime the 
 train had left for Lahore, and I had to pass the rest of 
 the day at Wazirabad. My friend the magistrate was 
 most kind, taking me about the town, which is a good 
 specimen of India, showing me a school under the 
 management of the Presbyterians, where the children 
 read English, and some curious gardens. I dined and 
 slept at the dak bungalow, where I met an ofiicer e?i 
 route for Peshawur, where we maintain a large body 
 of troops. 
 
 On Sunday morning I returned to Lahore, and as I 
 could not arrive in time for church, I stopped at Shah- 
 dara, the next station, and walked on, visiting en roiite 
 the tomb of the Mogul, Sultan Jehangeier. An immense 
 square, used for railway works, leads into a similar
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 253 
 
 square, used partly as a garden, partly to grow corn, 
 which contains the tomb in the midsfc. The building 
 is flanked by four ponderous minarets. Painted corri- 
 dors lead to the tomb, which is very elaborate, with 
 marble and inlaid stones. 
 
 I crossed theKavee by a footpath suspended under the 
 railway bridge, which, though it is shorter, resembles 
 that at Wazirabad, and had a dusty walk to the hotel. 
 In the evening I attended service in a tomb fitted up as 
 a chapel. At dinner my only companion was an 
 Italian artist on his way to the Vale of Cashmere. 
 Early on the 14th 1 started homewards, spending the 
 day at Umritsur, to see the Golden Temple. Here I was 
 very kindly entertained by General and Mrs. Taylor. 
 General Taylor, the Commissioner here, is a very distin- 
 guished officer, who has seen much service in the Pun- 
 jaub, and who has been very active in promoting mis- 
 sionary labours. At their house I met Colonel and 
 Mrs. Bousfield, who I found were near connexions of 
 friends of mine. The Colonel, who is chief of the police 
 for the district, most kindly gave up the day to show me 
 Umritsur. Driving through some lovely gardens, we 
 entered the native city, which looked curious from the 
 remnants of painted hangings placed before tlie shops? 
 in honour of the Prince's visit. The great sight ot 
 Umritsur is the Golden Temple, the most beautiful I 
 saw in India. It stands in the midst of a large piece 
 of water, which reminded me of the Hague, and is 
 covered with gold beat on to plates of copper. In this 
 temple is kept the copy of the sacred book of the Sikhs,
 
 254 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 which is encased in several coverings. Walking round 
 the tank, and passing a Seik prostrated at full length, 
 we entered the shrine where the worshippers were sit- 
 ting round the sacred book, uttering a low monotonous 
 chant. At Colonel Bousfield's request the sacred 
 volume was uncovered. Covering after covering was 
 removed, till at last the book appeared, when the wor- 
 shippers devoutly prostrated themselves. Some of the 
 contents was read to us. It is so far satisfactory that 
 this worship is paid to a book and not to an idol, but it 
 is lamentable to see devout men wandering in dark- 
 ness and rejecting the only source of peace. Over the 
 court where the priests sit are elaborately-painted 
 galleries surmounted by the gilded dome. From a 
 minaret near, one looks down on the beautiful temple 
 which stands in the middle of the tank, joined to the 
 bank by a causeway. The view in other directions is 
 over the Indian plains, here looking greener than usual, 
 which are lost in the distance, not a hill being seen 
 anywhere. Opposite the causeway is another temple, 
 where a yet more sacred book is kept, which is only 
 opened once in the year. Here the rites are gone 
 through for admitting men as Sikhs. The paintings 
 are curious, one of them recording a strange tradition. A 
 Sheik Goree, a priest king, went to Mecca, and fell 
 asleep in the court of the Caaba, as the great mosque 
 there is called, with his feet towards the shrine. The 
 Mohammedan guardian, horrified at such profanation, 
 tried to turn him round so that his head might be towards 
 the Caaba. As often, however, as he was turned, the 
 
 J
 
 9Kn 
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. Zob 
 
 mosque turned too, so that lie remained in the same 
 relative position. The story commemoratedby this picture 
 shows how little respect the Sikhs have for Mohammed. 
 
 After a very pleasant day with my kind friends, I 
 proceeded by the night train to Agra. 
 
 The Punjaubis a province of the greatest interestin the 
 consideration of Indian questions. Its inhabitants are 
 not an effeminate race like the Bengalees, but hardy and 
 warlike mountaineers. Macaulay in a graphic passage 
 describes what in various ages has been the course 
 of invasions of India. He says, " The people of Central 
 Asia have always been to the inhabitants of India what 
 the warriors of the German forests were to the decaying 
 monarchy of Rome. The dark, slender^ and timid 
 Hindoo shrank from a conflict with the strong muscle 
 and resolute spirit of the fair race which dwelt beyond 
 the passes. There is reason to believe that, at a period 
 anterior to the dawn of regular history, the people who 
 spoke the rich and flexible Sanscrit came from regions 
 lying far beyond the Hyphasis and Hystaspes, and im- 
 posed their yoke on the children of the soil. It is cer- 
 tain that, during the last ten centuries, a succession of 
 invaders descended from the west on Hindostan ; nor 
 was the course of conquest ever turned back towards the 
 setting sun, till that memorable campaign in which the 
 cross of St. George was planted on the walls of Ghizni.'' 
 The dangers which we may have to encounter in India 
 can only be looked for from the brave tribes which 
 inhabit the mountain regions. In our troubles in the 
 mutiny they were faithful to us, and probably, as long
 
 256 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 as tliey are on our side, we have nothing to fear from 
 any other race in India. Should, however, they ever 
 become disaffected, and particularly should these gallant 
 soldiers ever be trained by hostile European ofl&cers, 
 our Indian Empire may have to meet a severer struggle 
 than it has ever yet encountered. Hence the immense 
 importance of the warlike population of the Punjaub 
 being well governed. 
 
 I spent the 1 5th travelling towards Agra, following 
 as far as Allyghur the same route which I had pre- 
 viously traversed. In the carriage was a gentleman 
 who was travelling without stopping from Jilooltan to 
 Bombay, preferring 1800 miles of railway to the steamer 
 down the Indus. At a junction called Toondla, a branch 
 line conducts to Agra. The view of the Taj rising 
 from the plain, as we approached the city in the twi- 
 light, reminded me of St. Peter's towering over the 
 Campagna. The railway is carried across the Jumna 
 by a fine bridge. About seven o'clock I reached Laurie's 
 Hotel. Next day I visited what is held by common 
 consent to be the most wonderful monument in India, 
 the masterpiece of Mogul magnificence, the Taj Mahal. 
 It was erected by Shah Jehan, the son of Jehangeier, as 
 the last resting-place of his wife, Momtaz Mahal, about 
 the middle of the seventeenth century. A court, sur- 
 rounded by numerous small cupolas, contains a splendid 
 gate, which leads into a beautiful garden, cultivated with 
 much care. From the gate the magnificent marble 
 dome is seen raised on two terraces, and flanked by four 
 graceful minarets. Passing up the centre walk, whichhas 
 
 J
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOWj DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 257 
 
 canals of water in the middle, yon reach the first terrace, 
 which has the garden on the sonth, the Jumna flowing 
 below on the north, and large mosques on the east and 
 west. The upper terrace has a minaret at each corner, 
 and from it rises the tomb, with a gilded crescent on its 
 summit, and with several minor domes surmounted by 
 gilt ornaments glittering in the sun. Entering through 
 elaborately-carved gates, you reach the centre, where a 
 small tomb marks the grave of the queen, and a larger 
 one that of her husband, the whole brilliant with carving 
 and inlaid stones. Over this the dome rises to the 
 height of 2 70 feet. The whole is of marble and presents 
 an appearance of incomparable grandeur. The fort 
 contains the Moti Musjid, a beautiful marble mosque, 
 and the old palace, which is very magnificent with 
 elaborate carvings and beautifully inlaid stones. The 
 fort is situated on the Jumna between the city and the 
 Taj, and its high walls enclose a great space. 
 
 In the evening I took a walk through the native city, 
 which is a good specimen of an Indian town. The 
 natives live huddled together, often sleeping out of 
 doors, so that a large population can be crowded into a 
 small area. A bridge of boats crosses the Jumna, but, 
 owing to the shifting channel of the stream, it must be 
 a constant difficulty to keep it in repair. I entered the 
 court of the great mosque, which did not look remark- 
 able, except for size, but the people about made signs to 
 me to go no farther. I did not understand the reason, 
 as I have generally found the musjids freely open. 
 Agra and Delhi were the capitals of the Mussulman 
 
 s
 
 258 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AKD INDIA. 
 
 power^ and from tliem the Moguls ruled India. Some 
 of these sovereigns were great men and beneficent 
 rulerSj but on the whole the dynasty oppressed the large 
 subject population of Hindoos. Such magnificent 
 works as the Taj can only be constructed at enormous 
 expense, and the taxes wrung from the poverty of the 
 people were spent in useless extravagance — not in 
 beneficent works of public advantage. I dined with 
 Mr. Simson, the collector, and met some young civilians, 
 who complained of the slow promotion in the service 
 in the North- West Provinces. 
 
 On the 17th I started for Futtehpore Sikr, the resi- 
 dence of Akbar, the greatest and best of the Mogul 
 Princes. I had a phaeton with one horse, which was 
 changed three times for others previously sent on. 
 For this 1 paid eighteen rupees. For twenty-two miles 
 one traverses the usual unending plain without a hil- 
 lock to be seen, though diversified by occasional trees 
 and rendered picturesque by strings of camels, carts 
 drawn by bullocks, Hindoos with painted faces and 
 gorgeous costumes, and women with huge rings in their 
 noses. At length the city comes in sight, the view of 
 which reminded me of Assisi as seen from the plain 
 below. It was once very extensive, it being seven miles 
 round the walls. Now it is completely deserted, with 
 the exception of the two villages of Futtehpore and 
 Sikri. Government expends 1 2001. a year in keeping the 
 ruins in repair. The mosque is very large, with a court 
 428 feet long by 406 broad, and with a gateway 140 
 feet high, which towers over the surrounding country.
 
 BENAEES, LUCKNOWj DELHI, LAHOEE, AND AGRA, 259 
 
 commanding a view wliei'e, for a wonder, some hills are 
 visible. It contains the tomb of Sheik Selim Christi, 
 a holy man to whom Akbar was attached, one of whose 
 descendants now acts as guide. The sheik rests in an 
 elaborate tomb, surrounded by other members of his 
 family. The mosque covers part of an elevated plateau, 
 the remainder of which is occupied by the palace con- 
 taining the halls of Akbar and the houses of his wives. 
 This wonderful specimen of the magnificence of Akbar 
 has a garden of five terraces, one over the other, sup- 
 ported on columns. The palace is entered by a gate, 
 called the elephants^ gate, from two figures carved over 
 it, while near it is a tower called the elephants' tower, 
 from figures of tusks upon it. 
 
 Returning to Agra, I started through the night 
 for Jeypore, a distance of 149 miles by the Kaj- 
 pootana State Railway, which, though it runs through 
 the Rajpoot States, is an Indian Government line. 
 I was anxious to see a native State, and Jeypore was 
 the most accessible, though, as its sovereign is the 
 most enlightened prince in India, I should have pre- 
 ferred one which would have been a more average 
 specimen. Gwalior, the capital of Scindia, would 
 have suited me better, but there is no railway to 
 it. Rajpootana is a collection of petty principalities 
 under their native princes, while an English resi- 
 dent is accredited, to each Court. There is also 
 a Chief Commissioner of the Viceroy for these 
 States. The line passes several towns memorable in 
 Indian history — Bhurtpore, the scene of Lord Comber- 
 
 s 2
 
 260 A VJSIT TO JAPANj CHINA^ AND IKDIA. 
 
 mere's glory, and Deig, wliere Lord Lake won a great 
 victory. Reacliing Jeypore in the morning, I break- 
 fasted with Colonel Beynon, the Resident, who told me 
 that the territory of Jeypore has a population of 
 2,000,000. He seems to have had much trouble about 
 Dacoitee, the system of robbery which exists in India. 
 I visited the public gardens, where it was interesting 
 to see the Maharajah has erected a statue, as a token of 
 gratitude to " his friend. Lord Mayo.'' This made me 
 think that the services of the late lamented Viceroy 
 have been very inadequately recognized by his country. 
 A generous opponent has conferred an earldom on 
 Lord Northbrook, who has returned to enjoy the 
 homage of his admirers. Surely it would have been a 
 graceful act in Mr. Gladstone to have bestowed an 
 English Peerage on the son of one who, though differ- 
 ing from the late Prime Minister in politics, governed 
 India to general satisfaction, and fell a victim to his 
 devotion to the service of his Sovereign and country. 
 
 I saw the hospital, the palace, and the college. The 
 palace contains two large durbar halls, which had been 
 splendidly fitted up for the Prince's visit. A succession 
 of terraces, one over the other, the highest of which has 
 a fine view, are curious, as are the large gardens. The 
 college does the Mahai-ajah gi-eat credit. I was sur- 
 prised and gratified at the facility with which the 
 boys read the Waverley novels, and at the knowledge 
 which they showed of English. The school of art did 
 not seem to be equally successful, but both testify to the 
 anxiety of his Highness for the improvement of his
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOW, DELFII, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 261 
 
 subjects. The streets of Jeypore are very picturesque, 
 as the houses ai^e curiously painted. They are clean 
 and wide, and the town is surrounded by a wall like 
 that of Delhi. I saw an elephant paraded in the gor- 
 geous trappings in which the Prince of Wales had 
 ridden upon him, and a collection of tigers at the end 
 of one of the streets. I heard that they sometimes 
 prowl down to the neighbourhood of the town. Jey- 
 pore is surrounded by fine hills, and presented a great 
 contrast to the fiat country through which I had lately 
 been passing. On one of these, a fine old city called 
 Ambere is situated, which I much regretted I could 
 not visit, but my time was limited, and I therefore 
 returned to Agra through the night. 
 
 On the 19th, after breakfasting with my kind friend 
 Mr. Simson, I drove to Secundra, the tomb of the great 
 Akbar, which is very large. On the top of several 
 terraces a small screen surrounds a sarcophagus. The 
 building is grand and Oriental, but it is in bad repair, 
 and looks poor after the Taj. I felt much indebted to 
 Mr. Pye, who advised me at Amoy to leave Agra till the 
 last, as the Taj was far the finest sight in India. With 
 great admiration for the vast temples of the South, 
 for the picturesque character of Benares, for the mag- 
 nificence of Lucknow, Delhi, and Lahore, and for the 
 gorgeousness of Umritsur, I still think this advice was 
 good, and commend it to any future traveller. Dr. 
 Tytler, the Governor, showed me over the gaol, which 
 contains about 2500 prisonei-s. They are employed in 
 useful work, such as mat-making, and make their own
 
 2G2 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA^ AKD INDIA. 
 
 clothes. I was told that burglary is the most common 
 offence for which they are committed. There are also 
 many confined for infanticide, which they do not con- 
 sider a crime. Hindoos are to Mussulmen in the 
 prison as seventy to thirty, about the same proportion 
 as in the population. Some of the best-conducted 
 prisoners are promoted to small appointments in the 
 establishment. It was sad to contemplate this large 
 body of human beings, condemned for their crimes to 
 a wretched existence here, and with no hope hereafter. 
 After again visiting the Taj, and taking a last look at 
 its glories, I left Agra for Cawnpore, a journey of 157 
 miles. I reached my destination about 1 a.m., and 
 stopped at the Railway Hotel. 
 
 Next morning, being Sunday, I was interested in 
 attending service in the Memorial Church, erected 
 in memory of those who fell during the mutiny, 
 and recently consecrated. It stands within what 
 was Wheeler's intrenchment, and is surrounded, 
 within and without, with inscriptions to the memory 
 of those who fell. The congregation was chiefly 
 composed of military men — soldiers from the neigh- 
 bouring barracks attending. After church, I walked 
 to the Memorial Gardens, where the fearfully 
 famous Well of Cawnpore is situated, into which the 
 bodies of the victims of Nena Sahib were thrust. It 
 is now surrounded by walls, and surmounted by an 
 angel by Marochetti. The gardens are prettily laid 
 out, and several monuments and inscriptions, some of 
 them marking the graves of those who died, are inter-
 
 BENARES, LUCKNOWj DELHI, LAHORE, AND AGRA. 263 
 
 spersed through them. The scene is sadly memorable 
 in the history of Bintish endurance and British courage. 
 Cawnpore is situated on the Ganges, and it is to it that 
 the canal extends from Hurdwar, running through 
 the main street. Cawnpore was the scene of Henry 
 Martyn^s last missionary labours in India, and here he 
 preached to the heathen in their own tongue. One 
 may contrast the state of India in his time with the 
 present, and ask if Christianity has made the progress 
 which might have been hoped. There are a good 
 many native Christians, particularly in the South, but 
 we may well pray for a greater blessing on the labours 
 of God's servants. As regards the English com- 
 munity, the forms of religion seem as well observed as 
 in England, we may hope, in many cases, sincerely — 
 very different, at all events, to the neglect which once 
 prevailed.
 
 264 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 BOMBAY^ AKD HOME. 
 
 I PROCEEDED through the night to Jubbulpore^ the 
 termiBation of the East India Railway, and the com- 
 mencement of the Great Indian Peninsula. I was told 
 that railways are doing much to break down caste in 
 India, as all castes find themselves obliged to mingle in 
 the carriages. If this is the case, they are effecting a 
 very difficult task, as the feeling of the Hindoo about 
 caste is one which has to be considered and respected 
 in all transactions with them. 
 
 At Allahabad, the great junction station, we changed 
 carriages for Jubbulpore. Allahabad is situated near 
 the confluence of the Jumna with the Ganges, both 
 which rivers come out of the great mountain chain in 
 the Dehra Doon district, and pursue a parallel course 
 for more than 400 miles. From its situation, it is a 
 point of much strategical importance, and has become 
 the capital of the North-West Provinces. Agra for- 
 merly held this honour, but, having been cut off from 
 communication with Calcutta during the mutiny, the 
 seat of the Lieutenant-Governor was transferred to
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 265 
 
 Allahabad, which had maiutaiued intercourse by the 
 river. The construction of railways has increased its 
 importance, as lines converge here from the Punjaub, 
 Calcutta, and Bombay. 
 
 The Jumna looked very fine as we crossed it by star- 
 light, and in the morning I found the country covered 
 with fine trees, with pretty hills in sight — a great 
 contrast to what I had recently passed through. After 
 a journey of 348 miles, I reached Jubbulpore about 
 half-past eight on the morning of February 2 1st, and 
 stopped at the Great Northern Hotel. The attraction 
 of Jubbulpore is the Marble Rocks, situated about 
 twelve miles from the town. Driving through a pretty 
 country, we turned into a beautiful valley, and reached 
 the bungalow built for the reception of travellers. 
 The view from the terrace behind it is very charming, 
 particularly in the arid climate of India, I first walked 
 to a curious Hindoo temple, and then proceeded to 
 the Falls of the Nerbudda. They are only forty-five 
 feet high, but the body of water is considerable, and 
 after its descent, the river rushes through a chasm in 
 the rocks for a great distance. It then enters a small 
 lake surrounded by hills and woods. Returning to the 
 bungalow, I descended to the lake, where I took a boat 
 up the river into the chasm, which is very striking 
 from the huge marble rocks which enclose it. This 
 channel has been worn by the stream in the course of 
 ages. Near the Falls an inscription marks the grave of 
 an unfortunate Englishman who, being attacked and 
 stung by bees, fell into the river and was drowned.
 
 266 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Leaving this beautiful spot I returned to Jubbulpore, 
 •which is a great military station, where the tents of the 
 native troops cover the plains around. At dinner at 
 the hotel I met some officers, one of whom described 
 to me the battle of Ferozeshah. The ammunition was 
 spent, and affairs looked desperate. He was present 
 when Lord Hardinge, thinking all was lost and that he 
 must fall where he stood, took off his decorations and 
 gave them to his son, who was a civilian, saying, 
 " Carry these home to your mother." The Sikhs, how- 
 ever, were suspicious of some deep design from our 
 firing ceasing, and when the cavalry charged as a last 
 effort they retreated. 
 
 Next morning I proceeded to Bombay, a distance of 
 616 miles. The people of the Bombay Presidency are 
 very proud of the Great Indian Peninsula Railway, 
 which runs to Jubbulpore in the direction of Calcutta, 
 and to Rachoor in that of Madras. It seems a com- 
 fortable line, and the way the stations are built and 
 nice gardens laid out around them is very pretty. The 
 carriages are built for a hot climate, so that I found 
 them rather cold at night. People told me I could 
 have no idea of India without being there in summer. 
 The heat must be terrific, particularly in those parts 
 which are far removed from the sea. It is not un- 
 common for natives as well as Europeans to die of heat 
 apoplexy in railway journeys, and I was told that 
 coffins are kept at the stations, to provide against what 
 is a not unfrequent occurrence. 
 
 Our route lay through the Central Provinces. Some
 
 BOMBAYj AND HOME. 267 
 
 of these are administered by commissioners^ and there 
 are several small native chiefs. To the north lay the 
 territories of Holkar, the great Mahratta prince. The 
 country was more pleasing than that through which I 
 had recently travelled, and some pretty hills were in 
 sight during much of the day. I was in company with 
 a doctor in the Indian army, who told me that in 1857 
 he was stationed near Delhi, and the Collector remarked 
 to him that he did not like the look of the natives, as 
 they were either uncivil or too civil. Soon afterwards 
 this gentleman was removed to another station, but 
 his successor, refusing to leave his post and escape, 
 was murdered with his wife and child. My infor- 
 mant himself escaped by hard riding on a camel. 
 At daylight, on the 2ord, we were in a wild, hilly 
 country, still in the table-land of Central India. The 
 great chain of mountains, which is the watershed of the 
 peninsula, is near the western coast. Hence the great 
 rivers run east into the Bay of Bengal. We soon 
 began to descend the ThuU Ghaut, which conducts the 
 railroad to the low lauds along the sea. In the midst 
 of the descent the train runs into a siding, the engine 
 is turned round, and then takes the train the reverse 
 way. The scenery of the ghaut is fine, though not 
 particularly remarkable, and the ride on approaching 
 Bombay is pretty. We reached the capital of Western 
 India about half-past eleven, and I proceeded to the 
 Byculla Hotel. 
 
 Byculla is situated at one end of Bombay, and I 
 found the hotel, which is kept by Parsees, convenient,
 
 2G8 A YISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 as being near the P. and 0. wharf at Mazagon, and 
 tlie Governor's house at Pareil. Watson's Hotel, on 
 the esplanade, is, I believe, preferred by people who 
 like luxury. In reaching Bombay I again found myself 
 in a hot climate, and all the appliances for obviating 
 heat are necessary. Punkahs are required at meals, 
 and mosquito curtains at night. I drove down to the 
 city, where I got money, and engaged my passage in 
 the next steamer for Venice. I was not fortunate in 
 meeting with those to whom I had letters, except the 
 Governor, Sir Philip Wodehouse, who invited me to a 
 ball in the evening. When I arrived at Government 
 House he was most kind ; and I much enjoyed an 
 hour's conversation with a statesman who knows much 
 of India, and whose colonial experience is perhaps 
 unrivalled. 
 
 Next day I made an excursion to Poena, the old 
 capital of the Peishwa, my object being to see the most 
 wonderful engineering work in India — the Boer Ghaut. 
 At Kallian junction, twenty-three miles from Bombay, 
 the line to Poena and Madras leaves that to Allahabad 
 and Calcutta, and at Kurjat begins to ascend for seven- 
 teen miles to Lanoli. The railway is a wonderful work, 
 not unworthy to be compared with the Semmering or 
 the Brenna. It passes through twenty-four tunnels, 
 mostly cut out of the solid rock. As on the Thull 
 Ghaut, the engine has in one place to be reversed. 
 The scenery was grand, and must be very beautiful 
 after the rains, but at this time everything was burnt 
 up. At Lanoli, seventy-nine miles from Bombay, the
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 2G9 
 
 top of tlie ghaut is reached, and the Hue proceeds 
 through a dry and level country for forty miles, till it 
 arrives at Poona, which looked like an oasis in tho 
 desert. Shortly before approaching the city, the palace 
 of the Governor of Bombay, situated a few miles off, 
 is visible. It was too late, on my arrival, to see much 
 of PoLua, which appeared to be a very fine town. At 
 dinner, at the Napier Hotel, I sat next a lady and 
 gentleman who had come in by the train. 1 found the 
 gentleman was a very superior man, and in the course 
 of conversation learned he had been to Mecca. Upon 
 this I said, "Then you must be Captain Burton." He 
 said he was Captain Burton, and told me that, not 
 having been in India since his younger days in the 
 Madras army, he was now visiting it. He had been 
 seeing the Rock Temples, and was now on his way to 
 Hyderabad and Madras. He talked about the Euphrates 
 Valley railway scheme, which he says should run from 
 Tripoli by Baalbec and Palmyra. I apprehend this 
 scheme will have to wait till the Eastern question is 
 more settled than it is at present. 
 
 Next day I returned to Bombay by the same route, 
 but I was not sorry to have a second opportunity of 
 seeing the wonderful engineering and grand scenery of 
 the Boer Ghaut. The ascent of these mountains must 
 in other days have been most laboinous both for men and 
 cattle. Descending into the plains felt like going into 
 an oven, till the sea breeze cooled the air as we 
 approached the coast. 
 
 Instead of stopping at BycuUa, I proceeded to Borce
 
 270 A VISIT TO JAPAN; CHINA^ AND INDIV. 
 
 Bunda^ tlie central station, wliich did not look worthy of 
 so great a town, and took the tramway to Colaba, the 
 point of Bombay which runs out into the sea, and thence 
 back to Byculla, to see something of the city. It was un- 
 fortunate that during my stay in Bombay the weather 
 was hazy, so that I did not get a good idea of the 
 neighbourhood. The buildings around the esplanade are 
 very fine, and the large open space by the sea is a great 
 advantage to the town. Still it did not seem to me that 
 Bombay could at all compare with Calcutta in the magni- 
 ficence of its public buildiugs. Calcutta is a city of 
 palaces. Bombay is the commercial capital of India, and 
 at times has been wonderfully prosperous, though at 
 others it has suffered from panic and great depression. 
 Some persons advocate transferring the seat of the 
 supreme Government here, but 1 apprehend no Viceroy 
 is likely to accede to such an arrangement. Every 
 Indian Government has a hill-station, and in this 
 respect Bombay is worse off than any other. The 
 Viceroy and his council spending the winter in Calcutta, 
 the climate of which at that season is delightful, and the 
 summer at Simla in sight of the snows of the Himalaya, 
 may enjoy as good health as the British Cabinet, who 
 are tied for great part of the year to London. They 
 cannot be expected to wish for any change in their 
 arrangements, and there seems no reason why such a 
 change is desirable. For more than a century Calcutta 
 has been the capital of British India, and in that 
 country, where so much depends on maintaining a 
 regime to which the natives are accustomed^ it is
 
 BOMBAY^ AND HOME. 271 
 
 peculiarly important to make no needless alterations. 
 " Quieta non movere " is a good rule everywhere, 
 especially in India. At Bombay I met Mr. Morton, 
 witli whom I had crossed in the '' Alaska." He had 
 travelled very leisurely, making a long stay at Honcr- 
 kong and Singapore, and had come here to commence 
 his journey in India. 
 
 On the 2Gth I started with a Japanese gentleman to 
 visit the caves of Elephanta, an island opposite Bom- 
 bay. Taking a boat at Mazagon, we sailed for an hour 
 and a half in the midst of islands, of which we could 
 not see the outline clearly, on account of the haziness 
 of the day, and amidst a fleet of boats with lateen 
 sails, which looked very picturesque. After landing 
 on the island, we ascended a long flight of stone steps 
 till we reached the cave temple, which is cut out of the 
 rock on the side of the hill. It is filled with figures of 
 the Hindoo gods, among which a statue with three 
 faces, Vishnu in the middle and Brahma and Seva on 
 each side, is particularly remarkable. This old and 
 curious temple is situated in the midst of palms and 
 other tropical trees. There are other objects of interest 
 higher up the hill, but the heat of the day made me 
 afraid to attempt going farther. 
 
 In the evening I dined with the Governor at his 
 residence at Pareil, meeting Captain Glyn, of the 
 " Serapis," and Mr. Lee Warner, the secretary to Sir 
 Philip Wodehouse. When I was at Calcutta, Captain 
 Glyn was with the Prince in the North- West Pro- 
 vinces, but he returned afterwards to take the "Serapis"
 
 272 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CniNA, AND INDIA. 
 
 round to Bombay, where she was now waiting, liaving 
 on board the menagerie which his Eoyal Highness 
 collected in India. 
 
 The next day was Sunday, and in Byculla Church, 
 near the hotel, I saw a tablet to Sir Robert Grant, 
 author of some beautiful hymns, and ultimately Go- 
 vernor of Bombay. We had a very appropriate prayer 
 read fur the Prince's preservation during his Indian 
 journey. I had not heard it before, and I was told 
 afterwards that it was confined to the diocese of 
 Bombay. 
 
 The tramway which runs from Byculla to Colaba is 
 a great convenience. Tramways, like railways, must 
 have a tendency to break down the system of caste. 
 In the public conveyance the Brahmin finds himself 
 sitting beside the Sudra, and he must either refuse to 
 travel or submit to what his prejudices recoil at. The 
 necessity of travelling forces him to humble his pride, 
 and it is to be hoped that the result will tend to sub- 
 vert the system. Still, the fall of an institution so 
 engrained in the habits and feelings of the Hindoos 
 must be slow, and we cannot expect any sudden change. 
 
 The 28th was my last day in India. 1 began by 
 making some purchases of jewellery at the hotel. It is 
 curious in India how the native shopkeepers frequent 
 the hotels, offering their goods for sale. I called on 
 Mr. Wood, late editor of the Times of India, and was 
 much interested in conversing with a gentleman who 
 views Indian affairs from a different standpoint from 
 most of those whom I have met. The Indian official
 
 BOMBAY^ AND HOME. 273 
 
 naturally looks with satisfaction on the existing order 
 of things, while those who are outside the charmed 
 circle of the covenanted service are disposed to criticize 
 the proceedings of the Government. It is easy to find 
 fault with evei'y administration, and the rulers of the 
 East are unquestionably open to animadversion on 
 many points. Still, from the days of Clive to the 
 present India has possessed a succession of statesmen 
 who may compare with advantage with any similar 
 succession in the history of the world, and it behoves 
 those who blame to point out what course could have 
 been more judicious than the one pursued. 
 
 I found among some of the younger civil servants 
 dissatisfaction at the slow promotion of the service, 
 dissatisfaction which has found a most able exponent 
 at home in the person of Mr. Lowe. Mr. Lowe in 
 speeches, first at the University of London, and after- 
 wards in Parliament, called attention to the injustice 
 inflicted on these gentlemen because the expectations 
 held out to them by circulars issued by the Government 
 had not been realized. I had the advantage of con- 
 versing on this subject with a member of the Indian 
 Government who had been deputed to inquire into it, 
 and who assured me that the complaint had been 
 greatly exaggerated, and, in fiict, had little foun- 
 dation. All that the circular did was to point 
 out that certain gentlemen entering the service had 
 in a few years received certain salaries, bat it is 
 obvious that the expectations held out were subject 
 to certain contingencies, and could not be considered 
 
 T
 
 274 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 as a guarantee on the part of the Government. In one 
 or two years a greater number of appointments were 
 given than were warranted by the requirements of the 
 service, and consequently the successful competitors of 
 the following years found their progress retarded by an 
 excessive number of seniors. This was particularly 
 the case in the north-west, where an undue number of 
 civilians was sent, and some gentlemen, though not a 
 large number in these provinces, had reason to complain 
 of hardship. In other parts of India the complaint 
 had little or no foundation, I cannot but regret that 
 Mr, Lowe should have addressed the graduates of the 
 University of London in a way that seemed to imply 
 that he gave the sanction of his great reputation to the 
 doctrine, that it was the vested interest of intellectual 
 young Englishmen to govern the people of India, 
 We ought to govern that great Empire with a view 
 not to our own pecuniary profit, but to the prosperity 
 and happiness of the vast population confided to our 
 charge ; and the employment of natives in the highest 
 positions is an object to be steadily borne in mind. 
 In promoting this great object we should be deterred 
 by no obstacles except those which have reference to 
 the stability and security of the Empire. I much 
 regretted to hear from Mr. Wood that the opposition 
 between natives and Europeans seemed to him to be 
 increasing. Perhaps the increasing number of English- 
 men coming to India for purposes of commerce has 
 conduced to this result. 
 
 Mr. Wood gave me the petition of the Sattara family
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME, 275 
 
 to the queen (formerly tlie chief family among the 
 Mahrattas), praying for the restitution of that state. 
 The annexation of Sattara was one of the first and 
 most remarkable of the proceedings of Lord Dalhousie. 
 It may be remembered that the deposition of a former 
 Rajah led to long and interesting debates in the Court 
 of Proprietors, where many of the most distinguished 
 members of the Company, both directors and proprietors, 
 protested against it. The influence of the Government 
 of the day overruled the minority, which included 
 Mr. Hume, so well known in the English political world, 
 and Mr. Holt Mackenzie and Mr. Shepherd, so distin- 
 guished as Indian statesmen. The annexation was an 
 unwise and unjust measure, the first of the series which 
 led to the mutiny, and shook British power to its 
 foundation. It has, however, passed into history, and 
 belongs to that past it is impossible to recall. 
 
 The treatment of the native states is one of the 
 many important questions which press on the Govern- 
 ment. The annexation policy was abandoned after the 
 mutiny, and the proclamation by which her Majesty 
 assumed the control of India contains these words, 
 " We hereby announce to the native princes of India, 
 that all treaties and engagements made with them by 
 or under the authority of the Honourable East India 
 Company are by us accepted, and will be scrupulously 
 maintained, and we look for the like observance on 
 their part.^' This declaration is regarded as the Magna 
 Charta of the native princes, and, on the whole, it has 
 been scrupulously observed. Cases occasionally arise 
 
 T 2
 
 276 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA, 
 
 in wliich tlie causes of princes are decided by officials 
 in a way wliich cannot be justified. Tlie case of tlie 
 deposed Nawab of Tonk may be cited, who, without 
 discussing the question of his guilt or innocence, 
 seems to me to have been tried and condemned by a 
 secret tribunal worthy of the worst days of the 
 Venetian Council of Ten. The remedy for such cases 
 has been pointed out by two very high authorities. 
 Sir Charles Wingfield and Sir Bartle Frere. It is 
 "That the Sovereign should have at hand a tribunal 
 forming a part of her Majesty's Privy Council, or 
 possessing the same relation to the Crown, which 
 may, at command, sit in judgment on questions of 
 executive administration, whether appealed from, or 
 referred by the Government of India, and which may 
 decide such questions with an authority which shall 
 be conclusive with Parliament and the public, as well 
 as against any possible appellant." At present Par- 
 liament is the only Court of Appeal, and considering 
 the great difficulties which any member of either 
 House encounters in investigating such questions, that 
 he is opposed by the Minister of the day, armed with 
 all the information of the India Office, and that he has 
 to plead the cause he undertakes in an assembly for 
 the most part ignorant of and indifferent to Eastern 
 afiairs, it cannot be said to be satisfactory. 
 
 The close of Lord Northbrook's administration has 
 been signalized by difficulties with two of the principal 
 native princes. He pi^essed, in the strongest terms, 
 that the young Nizam should meet the Prince of Wales
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 277 
 
 at Bombay, and wlien Sir Salai- Jung objected, on 
 account of the state of liis Sovereign's liealtb, he 
 threw doubt on the statement, and insisted on ascer- 
 taining the fact from a physician in whom he had 
 confidence. This conduct is deeply to be lamented. 
 It was uncourteous to so eminent a man as Sir Salar 
 Jung, the most distinguished, by his talents, among 
 the natives of India, to doubt his word, and it 
 was dictatorial towards one of the principal Indian 
 Courts. It may be said that all has passed over well, 
 but mistakes of this kind do not develope their results 
 at once. The injured native, for the moment, may 
 suppress his feelings ; but the indignity offered is not 
 less keenly felt. The courtesy and consideration with 
 which the Prince of Wales has treated the native 
 princes has done much to smooth over present troubles : 
 but as the recollection of his visit passes away, we may 
 expect such mistakes to be remembered. Of some of 
 them perhaps it may hereafter be said that the 
 aggrieved party /jberoinaOev e%et kotov 6(j)pa TeXeacrr]. 
 
 The Baroda case has attracted considerable attention 
 in India, and has excited a certain amount of interest 
 at home. The Guicowar (which, being interpreted, 
 means the herdsman) of Baroda, has long been, and 
 continues to be, one of the principal princes of India. 
 Rank in India is regulated by the number of guns a 
 great personage, whether British or native, is allowed 
 for a salute, and the acquisition of an additional gun 
 is an object of great ambition to a potentate. The 
 Maharajah of Cashmere and the Guicowar rank at the
 
 278 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 head of the list. In 1870 Mulhar Rao succeeded to 
 the throne of the Guicowars. Grave complaints of 
 the misgovernment of the territory of Baroda were 
 made to the Government of Bombay, who applied to 
 the Government of India for authority to appoint a 
 Commission of Bombay officers for the purpose of 
 inquiring into and remedying it. On the 19th of 
 September, 1873, the Viceroy replied that a Com- 
 mission should be appointed ; but that "it would most 
 appropriately emanate from the Government of India,'' 
 It would appear that in these important transactions 
 injury to the public service may have arisen from the 
 jealousy between the authorities of Calcutta and Bom- 
 bay. The Calcutta officials assert that the power of 
 the Bombay Government is too great for the advan- 
 tageous working of the political system. On the other 
 hand, the Bombay civilians complain that they are 
 excluded from the great prizes of the Indian service. 
 Be this as it may. Lord Northbrook assumed the con- 
 duct of Baroda affairs, and with him rests the respon- 
 sibility of subsequent events. 
 
 A commission was appointed, which sat at Baroda, 
 in November and December, 1875, and the result was 
 that the Guicowar was allowed a year and a half to 
 reform his administration. During this period an at- 
 tempt was made to poison the British Resident, Colonel 
 Phayre, and it was alleged that this attempt was made 
 by the authority of the Guicowar. Colonel Phayre 
 was a gentleman who had filled several important posi- 
 tions, though it is stated by the advocates of the
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 279 
 
 Gaicowar that liis appointment by the Bombay Govern- 
 ment to Baroda was most improper, as he had been 
 recently removed, for want of "skill and discretion/' 
 from another political situation in Scinde. There can 
 be no question that the personal relations between the 
 Guicowar and the Resident were most unsatisfactory. 
 The Colonel believed, probably with great truth, that 
 the misgovernment of Baroda was atrocious, and its 
 Sovereign was surrounded with a set of men who were 
 among the worst specimens of the courtiers who cor- 
 rupt and ruin Eastern princes. On the other hand, 
 Mulhar Rao had a personal antipathy to Colonel 
 Phayre, whose exhortations to reform he resented. 
 The intrigues of a native court are not to be fathomed. 
 Whether the Guicowar was a party to the conspiracy 
 to murder the Resident — whether, like Henry the 
 Second in the case of Beckett, he simply expressed a 
 wish that his enemy should be got rid of, or whether 
 he was wholly innocent, are questions on which opinions 
 will probably continue to differ. Those who have sat 
 on juries in commercial cases know the difficulty of 
 judging of conflicting testimony where both sides are 
 anxious to speak the truth, while those who, whether 
 as jurors or magistrates, have had to decide cases 
 where witnesses are not to be believed on their oaths, 
 have found this difficulty immeasurably increased. 
 How arduous must, then, be the task of a tribunal 
 which has to decide a cause where, from the inherent 
 mendacity of the native witnesses, no reliance whatever 
 can be placed on their testimony.
 
 280 A VISIT TO JAPAN^ CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 Two courses lay before Lord Northbrook, the Indian 
 and the English. According to Indian precedent, 
 he would have deputed a confidential commission to 
 investigate the charge on the spot, and, having care- 
 fully considered the evidence produced before them, 
 and the opinion they formed upon it, he would have 
 pronounced his own decision. According to the system 
 which we adopt in similar cases in England, he would 
 have publicly tried the case by a competent tribunal, 
 and would have been bound by their verdict. The 
 Viceroy determined, in the first place, to pursue the 
 latter course. He appointed a most eminent Commis- 
 sion publicly to investigate the charge. It consisted of 
 Sir Richard Couch, Chief Justice of India, Sir Richard 
 Meade, and Mr. Melville, on the part of the Govern- 
 ment ; and of Scindiah, the Maharajah of Jeypore, and 
 Sir Dinkah Rao, on the part of the natives. More 
 eminent men can hardly be found in India, and it was 
 supposed the Government of India was acting with 
 the impartiality of that of England. It was true that 
 Holkar, fearing lest the tribunal should not be con- 
 fided in, refused to be a member, but for the time it 
 was thought that the decision was really in the hands 
 of the Commissioners. They met and investigated the 
 charge at great length. The public nature of the in- 
 quiry enabled the Guicowar to retain the services of 
 one of the most eminent members of the English bar, 
 and the eloquence of Serjeant Ballantine did much to 
 create throughout the whole population of India a 
 feeling in favour of their fellow-countryman. After a
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 281 
 
 prolonged investigation tlie Commissioners differed, the 
 three Englishmen pronouncing the Guicovvar guilty, 
 the three natives acquitting him. According to every 
 English idea the prince was acquitted. When an Eng- 
 lishman has been tried, and a verdict of Guilty has not 
 been returned, nothing is more obvious than that no 
 further proceedings should be taken. Among the 
 judges acquitting were two of the ablest and most 
 powerful Indian princes, and it was not only courtesy 
 but policy to respect their verdict. 
 
 It is evident that Lord Northbrook, when he appointed 
 the Commission, had felt sure of a conviction, of which 
 he was deprived by the eloquence of Serjeant Ballan- 
 tine; foiled in this expectation, he fell back on the 
 charge of misgovernment. After the report of the 
 first Commission he had allowed Mulhar Rao to the 
 close of 1875 to reform the abuses of his State. Under 
 the disappointment of the failure of the trial, he disre- 
 garded the arrangement he had himself entered into, 
 deposed the Guicowar for maladministration, expelled 
 him from his kingdom, and placed a relative on the 
 vacant throne. It is, right to add, that he succeeded in 
 placing the Government under one of the most dis- 
 tinguished native statesmen. Sir Madova Rao, under 
 whose enlightened administration we may hope that the 
 necessary reforms may be eifected. 
 
 The Baroda episode in Lord Northbrook's adminis- 
 tration is one to be deeply regretted. Granting that 
 the misgovernment was of the most atrocious descrip- 
 tion, admitting that the deposed Guicowar was the
 
 282 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA^ AND INDIA. 
 
 most vicious of Eastern potentates, assuming that his 
 complicity in the conspiracy to poison Colonel Phayre 
 was proved beyond all cavil, making every allowance 
 which can be asked for on the part of the Government, 
 the whole course of proceeding can only be regarded as 
 most unfortunate. To disregard an acquittal, and to 
 anticipate a period granted for reformation, seems 
 conduct more worthy of a low-class attorney than an 
 eminent statesman, while its effects on the minds of the 
 people of India must be to shake their confidence in 
 British justice. It cannot but be prejudicial to the 
 respect with which we wish them to regard the Govern- 
 ment, that they should see the verdict of their most 
 honoured and respected representatives slighted, and 
 the scion of one of their noblest houses first tried and 
 acquitted, then condemned and punished. To the high- 
 hauded exercise of power they were accustomed under 
 former rulers, but this mockery of justice is new in 
 India. 
 
 It was rather less than eight weeks since I had 
 landed at Madras, and it is wonderful to consider how 
 much can be done by the aid of railways in that short 
 time. Without travelling particularly fast, I had visited 
 places which thirty years ago many of the oldest 
 Indians had never seen. Owing to the improved 
 means of communication, the leading towns of British 
 India are for the most part easily accessible, though 
 as yet the capitals of the native princes are more dif- 
 ficult to reach. Of course a journey in India, even 
 were it much longer and more extended than mine, can 
 
 1
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 283 
 
 only enable the traveller to give a cursory glance at 
 that wonderful country. There is much which time 
 does not permit to be seen. I particularly regretted 
 that I had not the opportunity of coming in contact 
 with those holy and devoted men who are labouring as 
 missionaries in India. It seems to me that there can 
 be no question that the wonderful power which God 
 has given to England in India is designed to promote 
 the spread of Christianity among the vast populations 
 of the Peninsula, and that while there is a call to preach 
 the Gospel in every country, that call is particularly 
 loud from our own dependencies, and particularly from 
 India. 
 
 No one can travel in India without feeling an in- 
 creased interest in the country and its people. We are 
 too apt to forget how closely the prosperity of England 
 and the very existence of British power are linked with 
 the possession of India. Without India and the 
 Colonies Great Britain would sink to the position of 
 Holland — a country important from its commerce, but 
 of secondary weight in the councils of the world. 
 Hence everything which concerns its welfare should be 
 matter of the deepest interest. We can but heartily 
 desire that the vast population under British sway may 
 increase in material prosperity, may deveiope in moral 
 greatness, and, above all, by God^s blessing, may re- 
 ceive that holy religion which breathes nothing but 
 peace on earth and good-will to the children of men. 
 
 la the afternoon I went down to the P. and 0. wharf 
 at Mazagon, whence a tender took the passengers on
 
 284 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 board the " Pesliawur/' Captain Wliite. About half- 
 past seven the mail came on board, and we commenced 
 our voyage. As long as I remained on deck the 
 flashing light on Colaba Point continued to be visible. 
 Thus I took leave of India, — 
 
 " It may be for years, or it may be for ever." 
 
 The six following days were passed at sea, averaging a 
 run of 273 miles a day. The distance from Bombay to 
 Aden is about 1G50 miles. The " Peshawur," though 
 not very fast, is a fine ship of nearly 4000 tons. We 
 had nearly 1 00 passengers, which made the ship rather 
 full, especially at meals. Fortunately for me, neither 
 of the two gentlemen who had been put down to share 
 my cabin turned up, so I had a state-room to myself. 
 The company included several Australians, who, instead 
 of taking the direct boat at Galle, had come on to 
 Bombay and waited for our steamer. There were also 
 two reporters, who had been following the Prince 
 through his Indian tour. The principal Indians on 
 board were Mr. Eden, whom I had met in Calcutta, and 
 Mr. Scoble, the Advocate-General of Bombay. There 
 were also several ofiBcers, who were only going to Aden. 
 I was surprised to hear from them that the frontier 
 force, consisting of 1 2,000 men, is under the Governor 
 of the Punjaub, and not under the Commander-in- 
 Chief, though the troops at Peshawur are under the 
 latter. This seems an odd arrantjement, but the reason 
 given is that the frontier soldiers have police duties to 
 di^charsfe.
 
 BOMBAY, AND HOME. 285 
 
 Ou Sunday, March 5tli, the Rev. Mr. Steed, a chaplain 
 from Poona, performed service. In the afternoon we 
 had a sad sight. A poor woman in the second class 
 had died in the night, and owing to the heat we could 
 not take the body to Aden. It was the first time I had 
 witnessed the striking and solemn spectacle of seeing 
 the remains of a fellow-creature committed to the deep. 
 The service was read, and the coffin at the proper 
 moment thrown into the sea. 
 
 About five the land by Aden came into sight, and at 
 10.20 p.m. we dropped anchor. I went with a party on 
 shore to the hotel, where many of my companions 
 bought ostrich feathers, which seemed the great article 
 of trade. The town looked well by moonlight, and 
 the southern cross, though to some extent obscured 
 by the moon, was fine. Aden is situated in latitude 
 12° 45', and must be intensely hot. The administration 
 is under the Government of Bombay. A regiment is 
 kept here, and the 55tb, some of whose officers had 
 been on board the ^' Peshawur," had just arrived. It 
 must be a most unpleasant station, as the heat is great 
 and the town is surrounded by desert. I was told a 
 curious thing about the telegraph. Every message 
 comes here to be transmitted to India, but the clerk is 
 not allowed to divulge the news, as the community 
 have refused the payment demanded by the company. 
 The consequence is, that the inhabitants of Aden have 
 to wait the arrival of tlie steamer from Bombay to learn 
 news which has passed through more than a week 
 before.
 
 286 A VISIT TO JAPANj CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 We weighed anchor about four in the morning of 
 the 6th, and steered west for the Straits of Bab-el- 
 Mandeb, which we passed at mid-day and entered the 
 Red Sea. We passed Perim, where an unfortunate 
 garrison is kept to guard the entrance to the sea. A 
 good story is told of an officer who sohcited an ex- 
 tension of his time of service here. The authorities 
 readily granted so unusual a request, and it was not 
 till some time afterwards that it was discovered that, 
 instead of remaining in exile on a desert island, the 
 young gentleman had put himself on board the P. and 0., 
 visited London, and returned ere his term of duty was 
 ended. The distance from Aden to Suez is more than 
 1300 miles, which we accomplished in five days. The 
 boat was advertised to be at Aden on Tuesday, and at 
 Suez on the following Monday, so that we saved two 
 days. The voyage up the Red Sea was very pleasant — 
 a. great contrast to what many travellers experience, 
 especially when going south. In the summer months 
 the heat appears to be almost insupportable, and deaths 
 are often occasioned by it. On the 9th we crossed the 
 tropic, and on the 10th saw Has Mahomet, the high 
 promontory between the gulfs of Akaba and Suez. We 
 sailed up the Gulf of Suez, having on our right 
 the chain of Sinai, where the law was given to 
 Moses. 
 
 At 5 a.m. on Saturday, the llth, we reached Suez, 
 where the steamer divides her passengers, those going 
 through the canal to Gibraltar and Southampton re- 
 maining on board, while those who are bound for Italy
 
 BOMBAY^ AND HOME. 287 
 
 land. By the latter route you have the choice of pro- 
 ceeding either to Briudisi, Ancona^ or Venice. I had 
 at first contemplated Venice, but impatience to get 
 home ultimately induced me to stop at Brindisi. The 
 steamer proceeded through the canal, which was, I 
 understood, likely to be rather a slow process. Through- 
 out the East I heard much discussion about the canal, 
 and the Government purchase of shares was generally 
 approved. Whatever may be thought about the general 
 question of Turkey, there can be no doubt of the vital 
 importance to England of keeping the road to India 
 through Egypt open. Were Egypt in the hands of a 
 hostile power, the very existence of the British empire 
 would be in danger. 
 
 Landing at the mouth of the canal, we proceeded by 
 train to the town of Suez, where we spent the day at 
 the hotel. 1 walked about the town with Colonel 
 Barrow, the Commander of the Oude constabulary, 
 with whom I travelled as far as Paris. Yie were struck 
 with the contrast with India. Here the streets are 
 narrow and the bazaars covered. There the streets are 
 wide, and, in spite of the great heat, you do not see 
 covered bazaars. Much of the town is in ruins, and, in 
 spite of the number of Europeans residing in it, it 
 presents a thoroughly Oriental appearance. The donkey- 
 boys are very amusing. On emerging from the hotel 
 I was greeted with the exhortations, " Take Sir Roger 
 Tichborne, the Claimant, very good donkey !^^ "Take 
 Dr. Kenealy, good donkey ! " On arriving at home I 
 asked my brother-in-law, who sits on the same bench
 
 288 A VISIT TO JAPAN, CHINA, AND INDIA. 
 
 witli him ia the House, to tell the worthy Doctor that 
 his fame had extended to Suez. 
 
 At half-past six the train left Suez for Alexandria. 
 It struck me that it would be worth the attention of 
 the Postmaster-General whether the transit through 
 Egypt could not be expedited. When Captain White 
 found he could not save Friday's train, he reduced his 
 speed, and we had twelve hours' detention at Suez and 
 six at Alexandria. In our case nearly twenty-four 
 hours might have been saved in the transit of the mail, 
 as we afterwards lost six more at Bologna. Being 
 before our time, this probably was not regarded. 
 
 The journey through Egypt was accomplished at a 
 fair speed. In the earlier part of the ride, where the 
 line is near the canal, it was too dark to see anything-, 
 but the rising of the moon showed us something of 
 the different channels of the Nile, which we crossed. 
 About 6 a.m. we reached Alexandria, and went on 
 board the " Kashgar," Captain Baker. I had not been 
 in Alexandria for twenty-six years, but as it was 
 Sunday morning I did not like to be sight-seeing. I 
 therefore contented myself with viewing the imposing 
 city and Porapey's Pillar from the sea, as well as 
 Phai'os, within which our ship was lying. At noon we 
 started, and about two lost sight of Pharos, the last 
 object which remained visible. 
 
 The " Kashgar" is a very fast ship, and easily accom- 
 plished the run of 825 miles in seventy-two hours. In 
 the afternoon of the 1 3th we saw the snowy heights of 
 Mount Ida, in Crete, and continued till midnight near 
 
 « 
 
 II
 
 BOMBAY; AND HOME. 289 
 
 the country of Minos and Idomeneus. On the morn- 
 ing of the Mth we were in sight of Cape Matapan, 
 and passed the Bay of Navarino, so memorable both in 
 ancient and modern history, which reminded me that a 
 year before I had been in a steamer which was driven 
 into it by stress of weather. In the afternoon we 
 passed Zante, '^il fiore di Levante," and saw Cepha- 
 lonia, and Ithaca, the island of Ulysses, in the distance. 
 On going on deck on the morning of the 15th I 
 found we were approaching Otranto, and at half-past 
 twelve we arrived at Brindisi. 
 
 " Brundisium longEe finis chartEeque viceque." 
 
 It was not, of course, the termination of my wan- 
 derings, but it is the last place in regard to which I 
 need trespass on the attention of the indulgent reader 
 who has followed me thus far. Suffice it to say that 
 leaving immediately with the mail, and taking the 
 well-known route through Italy and France (then ren- 
 dered remarkable by great inundations of the Soane 
 and the Seine) I found myself at half-past six in the 
 morning of Saturday, the 18th of March, in the City 
 of London, having, through the protecting care of a 
 merciful Providence, travelled 34,000 miles without 
 illness or accident of any kind.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Aden, 285. 
 Agra, 256. 
 
 Akbar, Tomb of, 261. 
 Alexandria, 288. 
 Allahabad, 264. 
 Amoy, 80. 
 Arumali, 54. 
 Atcbeen Head, 121. 
 
 Baroda Case, 277. 
 
 Belvidere, Society at, 179. 
 
 Benares, 225. 
 
 Bishopric of Calcutta, 173. 
 
 Boer Gbaut, the, 268. 
 
 Bombay, 266—282. 
 
 Brahmin, Rnmonred Appoint- 
 ment of, 158. 
 
 Bridge at Warizabad, 251. 
 
 British Power in India, General 
 Eemarks on, 184—224. 
 
 Buckingham, Duke of, 140. 
 
 Budda, Statue of, 38. 
 
 Burton, Captain, 269. 
 
 Byculla, 267. 
 
 Calcutta, 170—224. 
 
 Canton, 81, 102—108. 
 
 Caste, 159. 
 
 Cawnpore, 262. 
 
 Ceylon, 121—133. 
 
 Chinese in California, 21. 
 
 Congo, the, 47. 
 
 Contagious Diseases Acts in 
 
 Japan, 52. 
 Colombo, 128. 
 Comara Swamy, Sir, 129. 
 Condition of Lower Classes in 
 
 India, 218. 
 Coolie Trade, 82. 
 Court of Proprietors, 189. 
 Currency of Japan, 44 ; of China 
 
 72 ; of India, 182. 
 
 Daimios, 33, 56. 
 Decima, 67. 
 Delhi, 238. 
 2
 
 292 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dissatisfaclion among Civil Ser- 
 
 vauts, 273. 
 Donkeys in Suez, 287. 
 
 E^vpt, Journey throngli, 288. 
 Elephanta, Caves of, 271. 
 Excursions in Japan, 30—67. 
 
 Fawcett, Professor, Indian 
 
 Speech of, 176. 
 Ferozeshah, Battle of, 266. 
 Fitzgerald, Sir Seymour, 178. 
 Foo-chow, 76. 
 Fort St. George, 135. 
 Futtehpore Sikr, Mosque at, 
 
 258. 
 Fyzabad, 232. 
 
 Galle, 122, 131. 
 Gambling-liouses of H ongkong 
 
 38, 101. 
 Ganges, Sail down, 229; Ganges 
 
 Canal, 248. 
 Giant Trees, 1 7. 
 Golden Temple at Umritsur, 
 
 253. 
 Gosha, Palace of, 50. 
 Governments of INIadras and 
 
 Bombay, suggested alteration, 
 
 176. 
 Great Indian Peninsula Kailway, 
 
 266. 
 Greenbacks, 14. 
 Cniicowar of Baroda, 277. 
 
 Haileybury, 186. 
 
 Hastings, Lord, D ea tb of, 157. 
 Hindu Widows, 146. 
 Hiogo, 46. 
 
 Home Charges of India, 216. 
 Hongkong, 82—92. 
 Hurdwar, 246. 
 
 Income-tax of India. 211. 
 Indians (American), 11. 
 Irrigation in India, 215. 
 
 Japanese Tea-house, 37; Idol 
 60; Progress and Keligion 
 59—67. 
 
 Jeypore, 260. 
 
 Jinrikisha, 31, 36, 47. 
 
 Jubbulpore, 265. 
 
 Kaiserbagh at Lucknow, 234. 
 
 Kamakura, 36. 
 
 Kandy, 123. 
 
 Keys of Madras and Pondi 
 
 cherry, 136. 
 Kioto, 47, 49. 
 Kobe, 46. 
 
 Kootub Minar, 241. 
 Krislodas Pal Baboo, 180. 
 Kung, Prince, 93. 
 Kushan, Monastery of, 77. 
 
 Lahore, 249. 
 
 Land Eevenue of India, 192. 
 Lawrence Asylum, 165. 
 Lucknow, 232.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 203 
 
 Mariposa, 16. 
 
 Merced, 19. 
 
 Mikado, the, 32, 60. 
 
 Madras, 134—169. 
 
 Madura, 147—152. 
 
 Malay States, Affairs of, 115 — 
 
 120. 
 Manchester Goods, Tax on, in 
 
 India, 209. 
 Maj-o, Lord, Statue to, 260. 
 Ming Kiver, 76. 
 
 Mohammedans and Mussulmen, 
 Differences of Opinion be- 
 ween, 138. 
 Monkeys at Benares, 230. 
 Mosque at Delhi, 241. 
 Mulhar Eao, 278. 
 Mussouri, 244. 
 
 Nagasaki, 57. 
 
 Native Eegiments, Inefficient 
 officering of, 139; Manage- 
 ment of, 162. 
 
 Native States, Treatment of, 
 275. 
 
 Neilgherries, the, 153. 
 
 Nerbudda Falls, 265. 
 
 New York, 3. 
 
 Niagara, 5. 
 
 Norimon, the, 47. 
 
 Northbrook, Lord, and the 
 famine, 179; Close of Ad- 
 ministration, 276. 
 
 Nuwara Eliya, 126. 
 
 Omaha, 8, 11. 
 
 Ootacamund, 154. 
 
 Opium, 86—89, 98—101 ; Shops, 
 
 71 ; Revenue in India, 195 — 
 
 207 ; in Oude, 237. 
 Osaka, 53. 
 Oude, Annexation of, 233. 
 
 Palace of Tanjore, 145 ; of 
 
 Moguls, 239. 
 Parkes, Sir Harry, 41. 
 Patronage in India, 185. 
 Pedro (mountain), 126. 
 Penang, 114. 
 Perim, 286. 
 Phayre, Colonel, 278. 
 Poona, 268. 
 Population (of Japan), 38. 
 
 Railway Travelling in India, 
 
 141. 
 Rajah Narenda Krisna, 180. 
 Rajpootana, 259. 
 Rambodde, 125. 
 Residency at Lucknow, 234. 
 Revenue System of Madras, 150. 
 Revenue, Items of, in India, 191. 
 Rock Temple, 143. 
 Roorkee, 245. 
 Runjeet Sing, Tomb of, 250. 
 
 Salt Lake City, 9. 
 Salt-tax in India, 208. 
 Samurai, the, 56. 
 Sattara Family, 274.
 
 294 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 San Francisco, 20 ; Palace 
 Hotel, 20 ; Voyage from, to 
 Yokohama, 23. 
 
 Secundra, 261. 
 
 Shanghai, 68—74. 
 
 Sheva, 34. 
 
 Shinto, Temple of, 38, 
 
 Shoguns, the, 32, 60. 
 
 Sierra Nevada, 14. 
 
 Singapore, 111. 
 
 Sir Salar Jung, 277. 
 
 Siva, Temple of, 147. 
 
 Steamers, P. and 0., 109, 110. 
 
 Straits Settlements and Ceylon, 
 109. 
 
 St. George, Fort, 135. 
 
 St. Thomas, Mount, 138. 
 
 Suez, 287. 
 
 Tanjore, 144. 
 Taj Mahal, 256. 
 Taxation of Eyots, 156. 
 Taylor, General, 253. 
 Telegraph at Aden, 285. 
 Temple of Srirungam, 144; of 
 
 Siva, 147 ; Temple Procession, 
 
 151. 
 
 Temple, Sir Eichard, 183. 
 
 Thomason College, 245. 
 
 Tokaido, 38. 
 
 Tokio, 32. 
 
 Tomb of Akbar, 261. 
 
 Trichinopoly, 142; Eock Temple 
 
 at, 143. 
 Tycoons, 32, 
 
 Umritsur, 233. 
 
 Victoria, Hongkong, 82, 
 Voyage from San Francisco to 
 
 Yokohama, 24. 
 Voyage down the Chinese Coast, 
 
 68, 108. 
 
 Whampoa, Hon. Mr., 11,3. 
 Wodehouse, Sir PhiHp, 268. 
 Woo Sung Bar, 68, 75. 
 
 Yeddo, 31. 
 
 Yodi-gawa Eiver, 51. 
 Yokohama, 30. 
 Yosemite Valley, 18.
 
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