THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. H I STO RY OF PEEBL ESSH IRE BY WILLIAM CHAMBERS OF GLENORMISTON F. G. S., F. R. S. E. WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS EDINBURGH AND LONDON 1864 Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh. PREFACE. IH A D long entertained a wish to write a history of my native county, but the obligations of a busy life, independently of other reasons, postponed the under- taking until, after an absence of six -and -thirty years, I returned to dwell amidst scenes, of which I had treasured up some recollections and traditions. I was not without an excuse for having formed this desire. The only available book on the subject was the Description of Tweeddale, by Dr Alexander Pennicuik of Romanno, issued originally in 1715, and re-issued with notes in 1815, by the late Mr Brown of Newhall. Besides being out of date, Pennicuik's work, though in many respects curious and valuable, is little else than a topographic and botanical recital. After making a survey of the county in 1775, Captain Armstrong issued his Companion to the Map of Tweeddale, but this tract, while embracing some useful facts, is also chiefly topo- graphic, and has been long out of sight. The next book concerning the shire, was a General View of the Agriculture of tlie County of Peebles, by the Rev. Charles Findlater, minister of Newlands, issued in 1802. Find- VI PREFACE. later, a man of enlarged views and genial temperament, has presented an interesting account of rural progress until his own day, but necessarily abstains from matters of an historical character. The attempt to compose a history, along with a general description of the county, has not been unat- tended with difficulties. Forming a secluded moun- tainous territory, Peeblesshire, though not distant from the centre of public affairs, is scarcely noticed in general Scottish history. Materials for a narrative of events require to be sought for almost entirely in original sources. For several years, accordingly, I have enjoyed the pleasant occupation of digging into old records, and thence drawing to the light of day such facts as bore on the raids, fightings, feuds, slaughters, and other lively occurrences of the period, when lairds lived in castles and cared very little for either law or government when bailies and burgesses, emulating their betters, settled dis- putes by an appeal to " Jeddart staffs" and " whingers" and when, seemingly, the only local tribunal that inspired terror, or secured prompt obedience, was the parish kirk- session. The following are the Records which have proved serviceable as concerns these and other illustra- tions of a past condition of society : The Records of the Privy or Secret Council of Scotland ; the Books of Ad- journal (Records of Justiciary) ; the Records of the Justices of Peace for the sheriffdom f Peebles ; the Valuation Rolls of the same sheriffdom ; the Records of the Convention of Royal Burghs ; the Records of the PREFACE. VI 1 Royal Burgh of Peebles ; the Records of the Presbytery of Peebles ; and the Records of the Kirk-Sessions of the several parishes in Peeblesshire. As will be seen, I have been particularly indebted to that invaluable and too little explored repository of facts, the Records of the Privy Council. What this august body had to do with Peeblesshire, becomes only very obvious, when we call to mind that it indulgently heard complaints from every- body about everything, from a case of homicide to a debt of a few merks from an act of rebellion to a quarrel between husband and wife ; a comprehensiveness of jurisdiction, during the old Scottish monarchy, of which some notable examples have already been presented in my brother's Domestic Annals. Believing that few subjects are more distasteful to general readers than topography, I have, while shunning minute detail, resorted to the expedient of telling the story of estates in connection with the families who have succes- sively possessed them ; or, in other words, endeavoured to describe the county through the palatable medium of anecdotic family history. Should this be deemed a scarcely satisfactory method of procedure, there is this to be said in its favour, that it enables a writer to shew how, through the expenditure of capital and exercise of taste, the naturally bleak lands of Scotland have been transformed during the last seventy or eighty years into a condition of beauty, fertility, and high commercial value. For facts in this department, I have, of course, had to rely mainly on private papers ; and for the liberal Vlll PREFACE. manner in which my neighbours have opened their charter-chests for an examination of these documents, I now tender my best acknowledgments. The accounts of local antiquities, including the nume- rous and interesting British hill-forts in Peeblesshire, are from personal inspection during the summer of 1863. For communications on rural and general progress, also on the geology and natural history of the county, I have been indebted to individuals who have kindly taken an interest in my undertaking. I may confidently say that neither trouble nor expense has been spared on the maps and wood engravings with which the volume is illustrated, and I am hopeful that these embellishments will help to brighten up a narrative too apt to be dull. All the sketches have been taken by artists specially for the work, and may be relied on for their accuracy. The abbreviations employed are, P. C. R., for Privy Council Records; P. R., Presbytery Records; J. P. R., Justice of Peace Records; C. R., Convention of Royal Burghs Records ; B. R., Burgh Records of Peebles ; and K. S. R., Kirk-Session Records. W. C. GLENORMISTON, i6th May 1864. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Subject Illustrated. FIG. PAGE MAP OF THE COUNTY, FROM ORDNANCE SURVEY, with corrections ..... o FANCY EMBLEMATIC AND HERALDIC HEADING . . . 9 VIGNETTE Sheep of Peeblesshire ... . . . 17 STONE HAMMER ...... i . 20 STONE AXE 2 . 20 QUERN 3. 21 STONE MORTAR ...... 4.22 BRACELET 5 . 22 STANDING STONES, SHERIFF-MUIR ... 6 . 23 ROMAN CAMP AT LYNE in its original form . . 7 . 25 ROMAN CAMP AT LYNE in its mutilated state . 8 . 26 MILKISTON RINGS, present state . . . 9 . 32 MILKISTON RINGS, original form . . . 10 . 33 SECTION OF HENDERLAND-HILL RINGS ... 1 1 . 34 CAERLEE-HILL FORT 12 . 36 KlTTLEGAIRY FORT, SOONHOPE . . . . 13 . 39 PURVIS-HILL TERRACES 14 . 40 ROMANNO TERRACES . . - * . . 15 . 42 VIGNETTE Seal of Archbishop of Glasgow . . . 45 VIGNETTE Figures of two Red Friars . . . . 54 VIGNETTE Old Armour . 61 CARDRONA TOWER, in ruins . . . . 16 71 DOOR OF A BASTEL-HOUSE, Peebles ... . 17 . 72 X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Subject Illustrated. FIG. PAGE JAMES I. OF SCOTLAND . . . . . 18 . 74 MASON-MARKS ON TWEED BRIDGE . . . 19 . 80 TOWN-WALL OF PEEBLES 20 . 92 DRUMMELZIER CASTLE, in ruins . . . . 21 . 95 DROCHILL CASTLE, in ruins . . . . 22 . 107 OLD TOWER OF BARNS 23 .117 HORSBRUGH CASTLE, in ruins (1856). . . 24 . 128 VIGNETTE Border raid .144 NEIDPATH CASTLE, eastern aspect . . . 25 . 157 MAP OF THE COUNTY, as surveyed in 1608 . . . .181 TRAQUAIR HOUSE, front view . . . . 26 . 182 VIGNETTE Figure of Hon. General Douglas . . .206 TOWN-MANSION OF WILLIAMSON OF CARDRONA, now an Inn . . . . . . 27 .219 VIGNETTE Duke of Queensberry's coach . . . .229 VIGNETTE View of Peebles . . . . . .256 BURGH SEAL 28 . 260 CROSS OF PEEBLES, 1699 29 . 261 JOHN JAMESON, a mendicant fiddler . . . 30 . 273 CHAMBERS INSTITUTION, front view . . . 31 .280 QUADRANGLE, CROSS, AND HALL, Chambers Institution 32 . 282 LIBRARY AND READING ROOM, Chambers Institution 33 . 283 STONE TABLET IN HOUSE OF THE TURNBULLS . 34 .284 THE YETT, entrance to Cross Keys Inn . . 35 . 286 EMBLEMATIC FOURTH FIGURE . . . 36 .289 RUINS OF ST ANDREW'S CHURCH . . 37 .291 ST NICHOLAS WITH THE HOLY ROOD . . 38 . 294 Rums OF THE CROSS CHURCH . 39 295 VIGNETTE Doorway to the Green . . . . -315 CREST OF THE LORDS YESTER, Neidpath Castle . 40 . 318 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xi Subject Illustrated. FIG. PAGE NEIDPATH CASTLE, southern aspect . 41 32 OLD Q. 42 323 CHAPEL HILL 43 326 VENLAW HOUSE ..... 1 20 KERFIELD HOUSE 45 o^y -. 33i ARMS OVER DOORWAY, Haystoun , 46 335 KING'S MEADOWS 47 342 DARN HALL ...... 48 3 e? PORTMORE HOUSE 49 JJO 356 CRINGLETIE HOUSE .... So - 363 COWIE'S LINN . . . Si 364 VIGNETTE Eddleston Water . * 365 OLD BRIDGE, Innerleithen . . . 52 . 368 RUIN OF NETHER HORSBRUGH . . . 53 - 374 PIRN HOUSE 54 - 376 LODGE AND ENTRANCE, Glenormiston 55 379 GLENORMISTON HOUSE > 56 . 380 VIGNETTE St Mary's Cottage, Yarrow . . 381 BUSH ABOON TRAQUAIR .... 57 384 OLD GATEWAY, Traquair House 58 387 THE GLEN HOUSE . ... 59 39 KAILZIE HOUSE . ... 60 392 CARDRONA HOUSE . . . . 61 396 VIGNETTE Wading Tweed on Stilts . . ' 397 ; 62 401 THE BLACK DWARF'S COTTAGE . . . . 63 403 HALLYARDS HOUSE 64 407 LYNE CHURCH 65 411 TOMBSTONE, Piers Cockbum's Grave . 66 4i3 JUNCTION OF POWSAIL AND TWEED 67 4i5 DAWICK HOUSE % 68 420 Xll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Subject Illustrated. FIG. PAGE RUINS OF TINNIES CASTLE ... . . 69 . 421 SITE OF LINCUMDODDIE 70 .425 POLMOOD IN RUINS . .- . . . 71 426 HUNTER OF POLMOOD 72 .427 STANDING-STONE, Tweedsmuir . . . . 73 .430 CHURCH OF STOBO 74 434 JOUGS, Doorway of Stobo Church . . . 75 .435 LORD CHIEF BARON MONTGOMERY . . . 76 - 437 STOBO CASTLE 77 439 RACHAN HOUSE 78 446 RUIN OF WRAE CASTLE 79 . 448 MOSSFENNAN HOUSE 80 . 450 CASTLE CRAIG 81 .452 NETHER URD 82 457 LADY GIFFORD'S WELL, Linton ... 83 . 460 MEDWYN HOUSE 84 . 467 GARVALD HOUSE . . . . . . 85 . 469 SPITALHAUGH HOUSE 86 .472 BORDLANDS HOUSE 87 .473 CALLANDS HOUSE . . . . . . 88 .474 SCOTSTON . . . . . . 89 . 476 ROMANNO HOUSE . . . . . . 90 .479 OLD CHURCH OF NEWLANDS, in ruins . . 91 .487 HALMYRE HOUSE .',.... 92 497 MACBIE HILL HOUSE 93 .502 MAUSOLEUM AT MACBIE HILL . . . . 94 .503 LA MANCHA HOUSE 95 .506 WHIM HOUSE 96 59 VIGNETTE Girl wading Eddleston Water . . . -513 GEOLOGICAL SECTION 97 .517 VIGNETTE Game, Peeblesshire . . . . . -53 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. PEEBLESSHIRE, one of the smaller counties of Scotland, lying near the Border, so called from its royal burgh, is bounded by Dumfries and Selkirk shires on the south, Lanarkshire or Clydesdale on the west, Mid-Lothian or Edin- burghshire on the north, and Selkirkshire on the east. Irregular in outline, particularly in the east, the shire extends from north to south twenty-nine miles ; its greatest breadth is twenty-one miles, and its least breadth nine and a half miles. The county contains 226,899.206 acres of land, and 969.633 acres of water total, 227,868.839 acres, or 356 square miles. Its lowest point above the mean level of the sea is about 450 feet, from which to about 1 200 feet is the region of cultivation. The hills generally rise to a height of from goo to 1500 feet. According to the Ordnance Survey, the greatest altitude attained within the county is 2754 feet, which is the height of Broad Law, in the district of Megget. Peebles, occupying an alluvial plateau at the height of 550 feet above the sea, is situated in 55 39' 5" north latitude, and 3 n' 15" longitude west of Greenwich. IO HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Consisting mainly of the upper part of the valley of the Tweed, the county is variously and more familiarly known as TWEEDDALE, a designation which, in its old form of Tuedal, is sometimes assigned to it in state documents and historical writings in past times. Environed by mountain-ranges, and anciently bounded on its eastern frontier by the thickets of Ettrick Forest, Tweeddale long possessed a character of seclusion not to be expected from its near neighbourhood to the busy scenes of Mid- Lothian. Although neither very lofty nor striking in outline, the hills of Peeblesshire constitute a wild and pleasing pastoral region, intersected with alluvial vales, each watered by its tributary streamlet, gathered from innumerable rills which gurgle in sweet solitude down the recesses of the mountain-slopes. Excepting the Medwin Water, in the north-west, which runs towards the Clyde, and the North Esk, which, rising in the north-east, flows towards the Forth, also some lesser rivulets, all the streams of Peeblesshire are tributary to the Tweed, although one of them, the Megget, makes a circuit by its influx into St Mary's Loch, the parent of the Yarrow. Moderate in volume seldom more than from two to four feet deep, or beyond sixty to eighty feet in breadth and abounding in rapids, Tweed is unsusceptible of navigation, and sinks in importance in comparison with the Tay and some other rivers in the north ; but, independently of the celebrity gained by its natural qualities, it has acquired distinction by forming the line of boundary between England and Scotland in the lower part of its course. The source of the Tweed is found in the parish of Tweeds- muir, in the western part of the county, about 1300 feet above the level of the sea, where it rises at the base of a hilly range, from the further sides of which spring the rivers Annan and Clyde. Hence, the popular, though not quite correct rhyme : ' Annan, Tweed, and Clyde Rise a' out o' ae hill-side. ' A small fountain, usually considered to be ' the head of INTRODUCTION. 1 1 Tweed/ at the base of a hill called Tweed's Cross, and named Tweed's Well, gives forth a small rivulet, which flows in a north- easterly direction, through the parish of Tweedsmuir, receiving on each side various tributary streams, including the Fruid and the Talla. From Tweedsmuir, the Tweed takes a northern course to Drummelzier, where it receives the Powsail and the united streams of Holms, Kilbucho, and Biggar, and forms the boundary of the parish of Glenholm. It next intersects Stobo parish, and then receives the Lyne, a stream augmented by the Tarth and some rivulets in the north-western part of the county. United with the Lyne, the Tweed pursues its way in an easterly direction, which, with few exceptions, it ever afterwards main- tains. About a mile and a half below its junction with the Lyne, Manor Water joins it on the right, and proceeding through a gorge at Neidpath, arrives at Peebles, twenty-five miles from its source. At Peebles, the Tweed receives Eddleston Water on the left ; after which, proceeding through the parish of Peebles, Soonhope Burn falls into it on the left, and Haystoun Burn on the right ; it next separates the parishes of Innerleithen and Traquair, receiving several dashing small burns in its course. Near Innerleithen, it is augmented by the Quair on the right, and the Leithen on the left Below Innerleithen, it receives the Walker Burn on the left ; two miles further down, it is joined on the left by Gatehope Burn, which here forms the boundary of the county ; after which it holds on its course amidst the hills of Selkirkshire, emerging a short way below the Yair, on the more open and rich valley adorned by Abbotsford, Melrose, and Dryburgh. At this point, the Tweed receives, first, the Ettrick, which has been previously augmented by the Yarrow, and then the Gala, where it enters Roxburghshire, becoming now a river of more imposing dimensions, with banks more level than in the upper part of its course. Before leaving the rich vale of Melrose, the Tweed is joined by the Leader on its left bank, which is the only tributary of any note till it is increased by the Teviot on the right, near Kelso. The Teviot is the largest tributary of the 12 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Tweed in its whole course, and almost doubles it in size. Passing Kelso on the left, and flowing majestically onward, it receives the Eden Water, and soon after enters the level district of the Merse, which it separates from Northumberland on the south. At Coldstream, the Leet falls into it on the Scottish side ; and from two to three miles further down, on the English side, it is increased by the sluggish waters of the Till. Some miles further on, it receives the Scottish river Whitadder, a large stream previously augmented by the Blackadder ; and shortly afterwards, passing the ancient town of Berwick-on-Tweed on its left, its waters are poured into the German Ocean. From head to foot, the Tweed is computed to drain 1870 square miles. Through Peeblesshire, it has a course of forty-one miles ; Selkirkshire, nine miles ; Roxburghshire, nearly thirty miles ; and along Berwickshire, somewhat more than twenty-two miles ; making a total of 102 to 103 miles in length. Its fall from its source to Peebles is about 800 feet ; and from Peebles to Berwick, 500 feet ; or, reckoning its entire course, it has an average fall of thirteen feet per mile. Being undisturbed by traffic on its surface, and but slightly adulterated by liquid refuse from towns and manufactories, as well as possessing, in general, a pure gravelly bottom, its waters, except during floods, are remarkably clear and sparkling. Until compar- atively recent times, occasional heavy falls of rain kept the river flooded for days, when it formed a broad sheet of turbid water, often destructive to the crops on its more level banks ; but now, from the general practice of draining, falls of rain are carried rapidly off, and if the river suddenly rises, it as suddenly subsides, rarely causing any serious injury during these paroxysms. For a long time, the Tweed was crossed by only two bridges one at Peebles, and the other at Berwick ; but now it has several stone and other bridges, besides railway viaducts. Within Peeblesshire, it has some convenient fords, passable in ordinary states of the river. The Vale of Tweed is generally of a pleasing sylvan character, the hills being never far from the banks of the river, while the INTRODUCTION. 13 eminences and lower lands are frequently clothed by woods and plantations. As the ground recedes from the stream, except in the lower part of its course, the country becomes wild and pastoral, and rises into such elevations as equally to shut out Lothian on the north, and Dumfriesshire on the south. Though constituting part of what are sometimes called the Southern Highlands, Peeblesshire is not rugged, or, strictly speaking, picturesque. Its hills are, with few exceptions, rounded and soft in outline ; nor does its geological formation admit of many shelving precipices or deep dells ; yet the descents are in some places abrupt, and clothed in natural shrubbery. With its rounded grassy hills, offering the finest sheep-pasture, its alluvial vales, and clear streams, the county is free of any properties detrimental to general salubrity. With the absence of stagnant pools or unwholesome marshes is now to be remarked a high degree of improvement by the reclamation of waste lands and subsoil drainage, resulting in a singular lightness and dryness of atmosphere. Pennicuik refers to the want of timber, and the little planting to be seen in Tweeddale, but even at the time he wrote, planting had begun, and it was carried on to such an extent in the early part of the present century as may now be considered excessive, though in all cases adding to the beauty of the landscape. Peeblesshire has gone through the several well-known social phases common to the south of Scotland gradually shaken off its primitive Celtic character, been Anglicised by processes after- wards to be described, and passing through the broils of an unsettled age, has by a series of developments attained to a condition no way differing from that of the more advanced parts of the Lothians. Its people are essentially of the Scottish Low- land type, with the character and dialect appropriate to a variety of the Anglo-Saxon race. The intonation of their speech, however, is peculiar. It is less soft and flexible than the speech of Selkirk or Roxburgh shires, and is marked by a strange aspirate or elevation of voice at the end of the sentences. It may also be remarked that, in Peeblesshire, it is not common, as 14 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. in other parts of Lowland Scotland, to convert terminations of ay into a , as awa' for away; and two is here pronounced, not twa but tway, recalling the German zwey. For a, in some words, e is substituted ; dark and park, for example, being pronounced derk and perk. Pennicuik remarks that, from the purity of the air of Tweeddale, the inhabitants are lively, and reach to a greater age than elsewhere. He says : ' Few cripples or crook-backs are seen in the country ; but the inhabitants for the most part are strong, nimble, and well proportioned ; both sexes promiscuously being conspicuous for as comely features as any other country in the kingdom, would but the meaner sort take a little more pains to keep their bodies and dwel- lings neat and clean, which is too much neglected amongst them ; and pity it is to see a clear complexion and lovely coun- tenance appear with so much disadvantage through the foul disguise of smoke and dirt.' It is scarcely necessary to remark that, since the days of Pennicuik, a great improvement has taken place in point of personal and domestic cleanliness. The same author alleges that the people of Tweeddale have poor musical aptitudes. ' Musick, 1 he says, ' is so great a stranger to their temper, that you will hardly light upon one amongst six, that can distinguish one tune from another ; yet those of them that hit upon the vein, may match with the skilfullest.' As some relief to this assertion, we are told the people ' are more sober in their diet and drinking than many of the neighbouring shires, and when they fall into the fit of good-fellowship, they use it as a cement and bond of society, and not to foment or revenge quarrels and murders, which is too ordinary in other places.' What changes Peeblesshire has in late years undergone, socially and physically, will afterwards appear. Provided with good roads throughout, the county has latterly been penetrated by railways in different directions; and accordingly from once having been one of the most isolated districts in the kingdom, it is now among the most accessible. Independently of its natural INTRODUCTION. 15 attractions, of which its angling streams are not the least prized, the county abounds in memorials of the past more particularly the hill-forts of an early British people, and those ruined feudal strengths of a subsequent era, which are so strikingly in contrast with the tasteful modern residences now spread throughout the county. An allusion to the gray and forlorn ruins which are seen on the Tweed the species of ruins signalised in the graphic lines of Moir : ' Through Halls where lords and ladies swept, Now sweep the wind and rain ' reminds us that there is a charm associated with the Tweed, apart from any topographic peculiarity the charm of historical and poetical association. As the frontier of what were for ages two hostile kingdoms, the whole valley whence the river gathers its waters is the prolific scene of story and ballad literature ; and for the full enjoyment of the scenery, we must allow the imagin- ation to wander back for centuries, and be fascinated by the tender and chivalrous minstrelsy of the Scottish Border. Along with several of the lesser streams and we may name the Quair, Gala, Ettrick, Yarrow, Leader, and Teviot the Tweed has been the theme of many popular lyrics of old and modern date ; its simple natural beauties ever serving as the subject of poetic imagery. ' I 've seen the morning With gold the hills adorning, And the loud tempest storming before the mid-day ; I 've seen Tweed's silver streams Glitt'ring in the sunny beams, Grow drumly and dark as he roll'd on his way. ' So sings Mrs Cockburn, 1 in her elegant modernised version of the Flowers of the Forest; but long previously the river had been the subject of the well-known canzonet, Tweedside, written, as is believed, by John Lord Yester, eventually second Marquis of Tweeddale : ' I whistled, I piped, and I sang ; I wooed, but I cam nae great speed, Therefore I maun wander abroad, And lay my banes far frae the Tweed. ' 1 This lady was a daughter of Mr Rutherford of Fernilee, Selkirkshire. t6 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSIIIRE. Next, came the mellow and flowing pastorals of Crawford, 1 The Bush aboon Traqtiair, The Broom of the Cowdenknowes, and the newer version of Tweedside this last-mentioned effusion being a perfect warble of birds mingled with the bleating of sheep sounds the most prominent of all which salute the ear within the bounds of the county. Crawford might be said to have constituted himself poet-laureate of this favourite pastoral region, when he wrote ' What beauties does Flora disclose, How sweet are her smiles upon Tweed ! * * * The warblers are heard in the grove, The linnet, the lark, and the thrush ; The blackbird, and sweet-cooing dove, With music enchant every bush. Come, let us go forth to the mead ; Let us see how the primroses spring ; We '11 lodge in some village on Tweed, And love while the feather'd folk sing. * * * Say, charmer, where do thy flocks stray? Oh, tell me at morn where they feed ? Shall I seek them on sweet winding Tay, Or the pleasanter banks of the Tweed. ' It cannot be mentioned without regret, that a river which has evoked such tender emotions, and must ever be an object of pleasing contemplation to the cultivated mind, should in reality be a source of local discord and demoralisation. We, of course, point to the brawls, assaults, and offences of various kinds which are of constant occurrence in connection with the Tweed fisheries ; for it might with justice be said, that the practice of illegally destroying salmon at seasons when it ascends the river to spawn, and is unfit for human food unhappily reduced to a species of clandestine profession leads not only to serious moral and economic disorder, but almost doubles the amount of crime in the sheriffdom. Perhaps we are entitled to add, that recent legislation holds out some hope of at least a certain modification 1 Robert Crawford, second son of Patrick Crawford of Drumsoy, Renfrewshire, died 1732. INTRODUCTION. 17 of this grievous chronic evil. Leaving the subject, however, for future illustration, we gladly pass to other topics. Hitherto, chiefly pastoral and agricultural, and with manu- factures of comparatively recent growth, the county can boast of no density of population. Peebles, its ancient royal burgh, the seat of a sheriff and centre of local management, remains its only town, though Innerleithen, situated six miles lower down the Tweed, is rapidly growing out of the dimensions of a village. The county has fourteen parochial divisions, each with a kirk and settled minister ; but with these divisions are incorporated certain parishes, existing for all civil purposes. Pennicuik speaks of the population of the county as being in his time (1715) about 8000, and as now, after a lapse of a hundred and fifty years, it is only about 12,000, we should have some grounds for surprise in the slowness of the increase, did we not bear in mind that the aggregation of small tenures into large ones, in adaptation to an improved rural economy, has caused a large and continuous stream of emigration. As long as memory reaches, whole families have been migrating to more eligible fields of industry; while it is equally certain that there are few domestic circles within the county which have not been thinned by the voluntary removal of members the young men in particular to one or other of the cities in the United Kingdom, or to our more distant colonial possessions. EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. THE History of Peeblesshire, as far as it can be told, may properly begin with the Roman invasion of the northern part of Britain, at which period the country was occupied by a people of the same Celtic stock as those who inhabited the southern division of the island as well as Gaul. This people are now ordinarily spoken of as Britons, but the Romans gave them the general name, Caledonii meaning, it is supposed, ' dwellers in woods," and further particularised the northern tribes, twenty-one in number, by special designations. The tribe of Caledonians occupying what we now call Tweeddale were styled by them the Gadeni ; two of the tribes who more imme- diately adjoined them being the Ottadini on the east and north, and the Selgovae on the west. The Gadeni, to call them so, were pagans, and barbarous in manners. They depended mainly on hunting and the pasturage of cattle for subsistence, dwelt in movable tents or shielings composed of turf, twigs, and the skins of wild animals, and were probably unacquainted, in the earlier part of their history, with implements of metal. Their hammers and their hatchets were chiefly of stone, and with these they constructed their dwellings, and fought in their savage encounters. When their chiefs were slain in battle, or died after a life of heroic exertion, it was customary to bury them with their war hammers and axes a practice which survived EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. ig subsequently to the introduction of metal instruments and articles of personal adornment. Such was the people who, according to the feeble light of history, inhabited the vale of Tweed from a period lost in the darkness of antiquity. The frail habitations of this primitive race have been long swept away, leaving no visible trace of their existence ; but the names which they imparted to the hills and other physical features of the country, as likewise the names of places, still survive ; their tombs are also occasionally discovered ; and many hill-tops are crowned with the remains of their rudely- constructed forts or encampments. It is from a study of these varied antiquities, as well as from the casual allusions of Roman writers, that any knowledge is obtained respecting this early people ; such knowledge, however, not extending to their origin and early history. In almost every parish but more in the western than the eastern part of the county the very ancient graves here referred to have been found. They abound on the Lyne, and less numerously have been discovered in the parishes of Kirkurd, Glenholm, and Peebles. Usually, they are discovered in the fields bordering on streams sometimes on hillocks, but more frequently on level ground, where they have accidentally come to light in the course of tillage. Wheresoever found, these graves are the same in character. They consist of rude slabs of stone disposed in the form of a coffin ; several pieces forming the bottom, and as many the top and the sides. No cement had been employed in their construction ; and with a suitable number of flattish stones gathered from the nearest hillside, one of these tombs or cists might have been made in the space of an hour. They do not appear to have been placed in reference to any particular direction of the compass. They lie all sorts of ways. On being explored, these cists are for the most part seen to contain only a few mouldering bones, with nothing specially to distinguish them. In a few instances they have contained stone or metal weapons and ornaments, indicating the state of art at the period of their construction. 20 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Some years ago, there was found in a cist on the farm of Bonnington, parish of Peebles, the head of a stone hammer with a hole for the handle. This hammer-head differed in no respect from objects of a similar kind picked up elsewhere in Scotland. It is now in the museum at Peebles, and we give a representa- tion of it sidewise and in front. The weight of the article is about 22 ounces. Rude as was this species of imple- ment, it could not be made without considerable labour and ingenuity, nor, can we well believe, without the aid of metal. From recent discoveries, it is ascertained that there were, in different if places in England, manufactories of stone weapons, one being at Newton, Fig. i. Stone Hammer. j n the county of Durham, at which articles of this kind have been dug up in various stages of preparation. From these centres, the weapons would be dispersed by barter or otherwise over the country. Stone implements of a simpler kind, however, known as celts, chisels, or hatchets, have been found in the county, and of these there are several specimens in the museum at Peebles. They are of small size, thinner than the hammer-heads, and unprovided with a hole ; when used as an axe, they must have been held firmly by thongs in a cleft of the handle. In fig. 2, we offer a representation of one of these wedge-like implements, which had probably been used as a Fi 2 Stone Axe battle-axe, as is now customary among Polynesian savages. Peeblesshire possessed the quern, or domestic hand-mill for grinding. As usual, this ancient utensil consisted of an upper and lower stone, circular in form, and ten to twenty-three inches in diameter. The upper was provided with an orifice in the centre for receiving the grain, and an aperture near the side, in which a stick or handle was loosely inserted, for the purpose of EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 21 communicating a rapid motion. The lower stone, sometimes shaped like a dish with a raised rim, had a notch or hole in the side whence the meal or flour escaped. An upper stone, part of an ancient quern, dug up at Glenormiston, parish of Innerleithen, is represented in the annexed cut, fig. 3 ; it measures about 10 inches in diameter, and weighs 27 Ibs. In this specimen, a hole, in which a projecting handle had been fixed, is on the side instead of the top a circumstance which leads us to think that two persons seated opposite each other, placed the mill between them, and kept it in Fi g- 3- Quern. motion by giving a push alternately. Such, at least, whether by an upright or horizontally projecting handle, appears to have been the method of moving domestic mills in Syria : ' Two women shall be grinding at the mill' (Matt. xxiv. 41). Dr Clarke mentions that, in travelling through Palestine, he saw two women so occupied. 1 What is more curious, the people of the Faroe Islands still use the quern, and have no other means of grinding their grain. Portable mills of this kind in use by the Roman armies, were called mola manuaria. As several specimens of querns have been found in Peeblesshire, not differing greatly from that above referred to, they appear to have been as common in the county as in other parts of Scotland, but ceased to be employed at a period beyond the reach of memory. Possibly they were 1 ' The two women, seated upon the ground, opposite to each other, held between them the two round flat stones, such as are seen in Lapland, and such as in Scotland are called querns. In the centre of the upper stone was a cavity for pouring in the corn ; by the side of this, an upright wooden handle for moving the stone. As the opera- tion began, one of the women with her right hand pushed this handle to the woman opposite, who again sent it to her companion thus communicating a rotatory and rapid motion to the upper stone ; their left hands being all the while employed in supplying fresh corn, as fast as the bran and flour escaped from the sides of the machine.' Travels, iv., p. 167. 22 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. superseded by town and village mills, but as these failed to meet all requirements, there was a practice of preparing a small quantity of meal or barley by beating grain in a hollowed stone, on the principle of the pestle and mortar. These stone mortars, known as knocking-stones, appear to have been gene- rally in use until comparatively recent times, for specimens are still seen lying about cottage-doors or built into walls. We give, in fig. 4, the representation of one which had belonged to a farmer near Peebles. The use of metal weapons marks a degree of social progress and opulence, but as such are found in barrows no way differ- ing from those containing objects in stone, they must be accepted as belonging to the same people, though at a slightly advanced Fig. 4. Stone Mortar. period The metal ornaments found in the repositories of the dead have been mostly of that strange drawer-handle shape which, though at first somewhat puzzling to antiquaries, are now shewn to have been bracelets for the wrist. Armillae of gold have been brought to light in Peeblesshire, such as have been so profusely discovered in Ireland and in some parts of Scotland. But more commonly they have been of bronze, and are crusted with verdi- gris. A number of ornaments of that inferior kind were found in digging at Glenormiston, and a representation of one of them is given Fig- 5. Bracelet. in fig. 5. In size, it is adapted to the wrist. Another variety of antiquities of the same date, the stand- ing-stones, are seen in different places, consisting of rough unshapely slabs of the native grit or whin, stuck in the ground, singly, or in groups less or more circular. At one time, the theory entertained respecting these and all similar standing- stones was, that they were the remains of Druidic temples. George Chalmers calls them Druid oratories, and is intolerant EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 'of any other notion. The more prevalent opinion among anti- quaries now is, that standing-stones are in the greater number Fig. 6. Standing- Stones, Sheriff Muir. of instances monuments over the graves of warriors or other distinguished persons, or were set up to commemorate some important victory. Of all the structural remains of this ancient people, the most enduring have been their defensible encampments or hill-forts. Whether these intrenchments belong to an age anterior to the Roman invasion, cannot be determined with any accuracy. The conclusion we have come to after inspecting them is, that they are the work of different ages, for some are much larger and more imposing than others, as if their constructers had gained a knowledge of the art of rearing defensible camps during the Roman occupancy. The circum- stance of a number of these hill-forts being traditionally called chesters, would also seem to indicate some relationship to the military castra of the Romans. Any speculations of this kind, however, are necessarily vague, and it must ever remain a matter of doubt at what precise era between the first and fifth or sixth centuries, the circular and oval British hill-forts were 24 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. constructed. After glancing at a few historical facts, we shall submit an account of their actual appearance. The Roman invasion, in the first century of our era, must doubtless have produced a convulsive movement in the country bordering on the Tweed and its tributaries. Accustomed as the Gadeni were to warlike alarms, they could not fail to be startled with rumours of the conquests of Agricola and his well-disciplined legionaries ; for already, Nithsdale, Annandale, and Clydesdale had been reached by this strangely-powerful host of foreigners ; and we can well understand how the natives should have betaken themselves, with their families and goods, to intrenchments on the tops of the hills, with the hope of resisting the invaders. Nor was this heroism altogether unavailing, for, as is known, the Celtic tribes in the south of Scotland, though unable to prevent the Romans from planting military posts, gave them no little trouble during the whole of their stay. What concerns us here, however, is the nature of this foreign occupation in Peeblesshire. Passing through the country by way of Biggar, the Romans seem to have detached a force eastwards to Tweeddale, where they found a site every way suitable for a strong permanent encampment. This was the broad summit of a knoll skirted on the west and south by the Lyne, easy of access, yet defensible, not readily overlooked, and with the advantage of being near to water. 1 On this favourable spot they constructed one of their castra stativa, the remains of which attest the strength and importance of the post. There is reason to suppose that this camp on the Lyne may have been formed some time between the years 80 and 84. What it was called is uncertain. Antiquaries hesitate between two names Corda and Colonia ; but it may be neither. The distance of the camp from the Roman road through the upper part of Clydesdale is about nine miles. Although inferior to that at Ardoch, in Perthshire, the camp at Lyne has been of a magnitude sufficient to convey a correct 1 The camp is situated on the farm of Lyne (Earl of Wemyss, proprietor), a short way west of Lyne church, at the distance of about five miles from Peebles, and is accessible by a cross-road from the highway. EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 2$ idea of this species of military defence. As it existed towards the conclusion of last century, it forms one of the illustrations in Major-general Roy's Military Antiquities (1793), and from that it will be easy to judge of its extent and importance. According to Roy's measurements, the camp was a parallelogram with rounded corners. The whole was comprehended in a length of 850 feet, by a breadth of 750 feet. Such measurement included the extremities of the outer vallum. Within this exterior wall were other mounds with sunk ditches. The cleared space within measured 575 by 475 feet. The adjoining cut, fig. 7, copied Fig. 7. Roman Camp at Lyne in its original form. on a slightly reduced scale from Roy's engraving, represents the camp in its original form, with four environing walls pierced by an entrance on each side of the parallelogram. It is matter of regret that since the period of Roy's survey, the camp has suffered serious mutilations, and to all appearance it is destined to entire obliteration during the next fifty years. On visiting the camp, we found it under crop, and learned that it suffers fresh injury on each occasion of being subjected to the 26 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. plough. In its present condition, as represented in fig. 8, nearly the whole of the north side is gone. The centre is level, with nothing to mark the site of the pratorium ; but the entrances Fig. 8. Roman Camp at Lyne in its mutilated state. on the three surviving sides are still recognisable. The hollow between the outer and inner mound measures 20 feet, the breadth of each mound is 14 feet, and the height of the mounds 4 to 5 feet. The inner walls have risen above that on the outside, as appears at the north-east corner, where traces of the whole four are most perceptible. There had been some works exterior to the camp. A few years ago, the remains of Roman cooking utensils, in brown earthenware, were found at a spot about 30 feet beyond the outer vallum on the north ; these relics are now in the museum at Peebles. Cooking operations had probably been carried on at the spot, for which there would be facilities, presented by adjacent springs of water which have disappeared in the course of agricultural improvement. At the distance of 150 yards from the eastern entrance, there is a prominent knoll with a circular mound on its summit, enclosing EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 27 a space of 18 feet in diameter, which may be assumed to have been a post of outlook for the garrison. Supposing this camp to have been established not later than 84, it could only have been in use thirty-three years, when, in 117, the Romans abandoned the chain of forts erected by Agricola between the Forth and Clyde, and withdrew behind a new barrier, the wall of Hadrian, extending from the Tyne to the Solway. But twenty years later, the more northerly line of defence was resumed by Lollius Urbicus, governor of Britain under Antoninus Pius, from whom the barrier, now greatly strengthened, became known as the wall of Antoninus. Whether, on this resumption of their former power, the Romans returned to their post at Lyne, is unknown, though, from the magnitude of the remains, as well as the vigorous prosecution of the Roman conquests, it is probable that they did so. Their new occupancy of the country was not so brief as the preceding. They retained possession till their abandonment of Britain about 410, during which interval Peeblesshire constituted part of the Roman province of Valentia. The withdrawal of the Romans is understood to have been followed by two kinds of invasion. No longer kept in check by the wall of Antoninus, the northern Caledonian tribes, to whom has been assigned the name of Picts, made incursions southwards, more, as is said, with the view of plunder than of conquest. About the same time, if not previously, colonies of Frisians, Angles, and other continental races established themselves on the shores of the German Ocean and Firth of Forth, and began to make unwelcome visits in a westerly and southerly direction towards the recesses of the vale of Tweed. Embarrassed and not a little terrified by those incursions from opposite direc- tions, a group of Romanised Britons, including the Gadeni and Selgovae, are conjectured to have laid aside mutual jealousies, and formed themselves into a defensive confederacy, which is known in history as the Regnum Cumbrense the Cumbrian kingdom, or kingdom of Strathclyde. This kingdom, with its capital at Alcluyd, the modern 28 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Dumbarton, comprehended the greater part of the south of Scotland, and was only circumscribed by the settlements of the Anglo-Saxons. To what extent the Picts were able to establish an influence among the Romanised Britons of Strathclyde, is unknown. According to the most trustworthy accounts, the residuary Romanised Britons on the Tweed, under whatever designation or however assisted, were put to great straits in stemming the Anglian invasion, and for security resorted to the erection of defensible barriers, which ultimately proved less availing than had been the means of resistance to the Romans. A double vallum and fosse were constructed, stretching from the high grounds in the neighbourhood of Galashiels to the mountains of Northumberland, and this barrier, known as the Catrail or Picts- work-ditck, was supported by innumerable forts, which crown the tops of the hills in Roxburgh, Selkirk, and Peebles shires particularly in Peeblesshire, which, as a central mountainous district between sea and sea, may be deemed to have been the last and most resolutely maintained stronghold of the Gadeni. With a knowledge of the protracted attempts to defend the upper section of the vale of Tweed against the invading forces Anglian and Frisian, but it is believed also Scandinavian which made their attacks from the east and north, we are able to appreciate the difficulty of assigning any particular era to the hill-forts of the aboriginal and severely-tried inhabitants of which antiquities some account may now be given. Within Peeblesshire may be reckoned upwards of fifty British camps, all circular or oval in form, and of lesser or greater dimensions. They are usually situated on the summits of hills of moderate elevation ; their ordinary height being from 400 to 500 feet above the Tweed. Such elevations seem to have been chosen in preference to higher points in the neighbourhood, as if it were considered sufficient that the camps overlooked the passes in the vicinity, and had the advantage of some easily defensible ground on two or three sides. All the camps are composed of intrenchmcnts of earth and stones, with sunk EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 2Q ditches between the several rings. Some had consisted of two, others of three, and a few of four concentric circles or ellipses, rising one above another to a central space, in which had been the dwellings of the occupants. As an additional means of defence, exterior ramparts taking an irregular sweep on one side, had in a few instances been employed. Wherever situated, the country people around possess no reliable tradition respecting the origin of these ancient forts, which, often spoken of familiarly as 'rings/ 'camps/ or 'chesters/ are imputed to the Romans or the Danes never to the aborigines and have excited so little interest as to be thought scarcely worthy of preservation. Several are known to have disappeared in the course of agricultural and other improvements, and those we have to enumerate are possibly not all that might be discovered. FORTS. PARISHES. Cairn Fort, Ringside Edge, . . Eddleston. Northshield Rings, above Portmore, . Milkiston Rings, near Eddleston, . Harehope Fort, .... Harehope Rings, ... Meldon-hill Fort, .... Peebles. Janet's Brae Forts (two in number), . Cardie-hill Fort, Glentress Forest, Rittlegairy-hill Fort, Soonhope, . r. Cademuir-hill Forts (two in number), . Camp-law Fort (partly in Traquair), . Caerlee Fort, near Innerleithen, . . Innerleithen. Pirn-hill Fort, Rirnie-hill Fort, near Purvis-hill, . . Chesters, near Glen, . . . Traquair. Chester-hill Fort, near Grieston, . . Castle-knowe Fort, above Cardrona, . Highland Shiel Fort, ... Charge-law Fort, head of Railzie Hope, Torwood Fort, near Railzie, . . Hogsknowe Fort, . . . Manor. Ringknowe Fort, Chester-hill Fort, ... HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. PARISHES. Manor. Stobo. Drummelzier. Tweedsmuir. Lyne. Skirling. Broughton, Glenholm, and Kilbucho. FORTS. Hound-hill Fort, . Kerr's Knowe Fort, Hog-hill Fort, Dreva Craig Fort, Chester-knowes Fort, Chester-lees Fort, Hamildean-hill Fort, Candyburn Castle Fort, Muirburn Castle Fort, Mitchel-hill Rings, Mill Rings, Trebetha-hill, . Helm End Fort, Langlaw-hill Fort, . Fort near Stirkfield, Knowe Kniffling Fort, Rachan-hill Fort, Coomlees Fort, The Rings, Chester Rigs, Fort on Holms Water, Ladyurd Rings, Fort south of Lochurd, Fort north of Lochurd, Blythbank-hill Fort, Blyth-hill Fort, Henderland-hill Fort, Bordland Rings, Whiteside-hill Fort, Drochill-hill Forts (two in number), The greater number of these forts are on a comparatively small scale, consisting of two intrenchments or rings with an intervening ditch, and embracing an area of from 150 to 2OO feet in diameter. Simple in construction, and found chiefly in the central part of the county, these lesser forts probably date, in many instances, from a period anterior to or coeval with the Roman invasion. The larger and more elaborate variety of hill- encampments are, with equal probability, to be referred to that later period when the Romanised Britons, improved in the art of castramctation, found it necessary to employ all their skill in defending themselves from Anglian and other foreign intruders Kirkurd. Linton. Newlands. EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 31 on the north and east, and Picts and Scoto-Irish on the west. The situation of these more imposing British forts at least bears out this conjecture, for they are seen only at those places where the interior of this mountain-region is accessible by an invading host. Tweeddale is reached from Mid-Lothian chiefly by the vales of Eddleston and Lyne, and both were strongly guarded by forts. The group in the parish of Eddleston consisted of Cairn Fort, Northshield Rings, Milkiston Rings, Harehope Rings, and some others, including rings at Wormiston and Darnhall, which are now defaced. Cairn Fort, situated on the Ringside Edge, had apparently been only a small detached outpost. The principal reliance had been placed on Northshield and Milkiston Rings on the east, and Wormiston and Harehope Rings on the west side of the Eddleston ; for these commanded the lower passes, as well as the mountain-pathways, towards the banks of the Tweed. Northshield Rings occupy the summit of a knoll behind the modern mansion of Portmore, and have apparently served the purpose of guarding the approach, not only by the Eddleston, but also the South Esk. Through the good taste of a former proprietor, the late Colin Mackenzie, Esq., the camp has been carefully preserved in an open enclosure within a plantation. Oval in form, it consists of three clearly-defined walls with sunk ditches, measuring 450 feet in length by 370 in breadth. Two entrances, one on the west, the other on the east side, but not opposite each other, give access to a central space of 250 by 200 feet. The whole works constitute an interesting relic of antiquity, and possess the advantage of being easily reached by a pathway from Portmore. At the distance of about a mile south from Northshield, and crowning a similar height, is the fort known as Milkiston Rings, the largest and most methodically constructed of its class in Peeblesshire. This great work of art affords a good specimen of the more elaborate species of British encampments, in which, with the regular mounds of circumvallation, is combined a detached rampart to receive the first shock of attack. The 32 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. camp had consisted of four concentric walls of earth and stone, with deep intervening ditches, enclosing a central space in which were the dwellings of the occupants ; access to the interior being gained by two entrances perforating the several rings in a diagonal direction. Somewhat oval in form, the camp measures from north to south 550, and from east to west 450, feet. The breadth from the top of the fourth or outer ring to the top of the third ring is 32 feet, and the space between the second and third ring is 42 feet. The sunk ditches, which are best preserved on the north side, are about 12 feet deep in their present condition ; and at one time, when the walls were perfect, these fosses must have offered considerable impediments to an escalade. The detached rampart which lies on the slope of the hill below the camp, had acted as a formidable barricade at that - 9- Milkiston Rings, present state. part, where an enemy would be expected to approach. In form, it somewhat resembled a strung bow, with the convex side outermost, and consisting of a wall with ditches, it compre- hended a space of nearly seven acres. At its western extremity, EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 33 the rampart was flanked by a natural ravine, which, to appear- ance, has been so deepened by art, as to render the camp at this quarter almost impregnable to any force likely to be brought against it. From the large space embraced by the camp in its several parts, it is evident that a numerous body of defenders, along with their wives, families, and cattle, had been accommodated ; but of the dwellings which they occupied, there are now only Fig. 10. Milkiston Rings, original form. very feeble traces. On excavating the space within the inner- most ring, which is dotted over with tumuli, we were able to lay bare the imperfect foundations of two buildings of stone without mortar, each measuring about 32 feet in length. Within recollec- tion, many stones have been removed to form the dykes which divide the adjoining fields. Viewing this camp as a good illus- tration of the larger variety of British forts, we offer two cuts, figs. 9 and 10, to shew its present and original extent. In fig. 9, are represented the several concentric rings, with the inner space where the foundations have been discovered, also the two 34 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. entrances as clearly as they can be traced. Exteriorly, on the north, is seen all that now exists of the great rampart, which, by being happily within a plantation, has so far been preserved ; the remainder, extending into an open heath, had, at the time of our visit, just been levelled by the plough. Fig. 10 represents, in miniature, the whole works, rampart included, previous to their partial demolition. 1 Access to the interior of Tweeddale by the Lyne had been well guarded by a group of forts at that part, near the church of Newlands, where the valley narrows to an easily defensible gorge. We have here, on the west side of the Lyne Water, Henderland-hill Rings and Bordland Rings, with two forts on Drochill Hill ; while on the east side are Whiteside-hill Rings, and a fort of a lesser kind on Pendreich Hill ; this last, however, having now almost disappeared. Among the whole, the two most worthy of notice are Henderland-hill and Whiteside-hill Rings, for these had been the great guardians of the pass, and are conspicuous from a considerable distance. Henderland Hill, consisting of a pyramidal knoll, which rises to a height of 400 feet above the bed of the Lyne, commands so extensive an outlook in different directions, that no enemy could Fig. 1 1. Section of Henderland-hill Rings. approach it unobserved. The camp entirely covers the rounded summit, and alike from the steepness of the hill, and the nature of the defences, it must have defied any ordinary attempt at assault. The walls, which form an irregular oval, are three in number, and remain in a better state of preservation than is usual with works of a similar nature. In fig. u, we offer a 1 Milkiston Rings arc situated on the farm of Milkiston, the proprietor of which, Lord Elibanlc, has adopted means for preserving what remains of this very interesting camp. I'.ARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 35 section of the southern extremity of the oval, where the measure- ments are from base to top of outer wall, 19 feet ; top of wall to bottom of the fosse, 25 feet ; breadth of bottom of the fosse, 1 1 feet ; and from bottom of fosse to top of the second wall, 27 feet. The third ring is less imposing. According to the Ordnance Survey, the length of the entire camp is 320 feet, by a breadth, at widest, of 220 feet ; but following the rises and depressions from end to end, we found a measurement of 445 feet a fact calculated to convey an impressive idea of these gigantic works. Within the innermost wall, there had seemingly been some buildings like those at Milkiston ; and it cannot be doubted that both camps are of the same era. On a lower protuberance, to the north-east, amidst a planta- tion, is the minor fort known as Bordland Rings, and on the hill which stretches between Callands House and the old castle of Drochill, are the two forts already mentioned ; they are of the same lesser character, and now considerably damaged. While such were the camps that flanked the valley of the Lyne on the west, the eastern side was equally well watched and defended by the forts on Pendreich and Whiteside. This last, occupying the crest of a hill, had nearly equalled Milkiston Rings in point of size and arrangement. The camp consists of three concentric walls with intervening ditches, and measuring over all the length is 450 by a breadth of 350 feet. The exterior works have suffered considerable injury, but we are still able to trace a portion of an outer rampart or enceinte on the south. In the Ordnance Survey map, the Whiteside-hill Fort is marked as being 1200 feet above the level of the sea. It is reached by a mountain-path, which strikes off the highway near the manse of Newlands. The western section of the county, embracing the main routes from Clydesdale, is thickly studded with ancient forts, the larger and more important of which are seen in the parishes of Brough- ton and Skirling. Perhaps the largest of all is one called Lang- law-hill Fort, situated on a high ground about a mile north-west from the village of Broughton. It consists of five rings, the 36 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. outermost of which surrounds the others at a distance of about 250 feet, and measuring across the circle from this outer barri- cade, the entire breadth of the camp is fully 700 feet. This is not one of the best preserved British forts in Peeblesshire, but portions of the rings are remarkably entire ; and the whole works, along with the position occupied, afford a good study in relation to early historical circumstances. The most imposing of the forts in the eastern part of the county is that which crowns the summit of Caerlee Hill, a low Fig. 12. Caerlee-hill Fort. shoulder of the Lee Pen, possessing a commanding outlook in four directions northward up the vale of Leithen towards Mid- Lothian, eastward along the lower section of the Tweed, westward in the direction of Peebles, and southward up the vale of the Quair, which leads to Yarrow and a better spot in this quarter could not have been selected for guarding against the approach of an invading force. The knoll on which the camp is placed towers to a rocky crest, round which are visible two concentric intrenchments, both unfortunately EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 37 damaged at different points by excavations for building-stone. The camp is almost circular, measuring 400 by 350 feet across. The breadth of the outer mound or wall is 18 feet by a height in some places of 5 feet ; the width from the outer to the inner ring is 56 feet ; and the height of the central part above the base of the outer ring is 60 feet. The preceding cut (fig. 12) represents the present appearance of the camp ; the dotted line indicating a stone wall which separates the open part of the hill, pertaining to the family of Traquair, from the wooded portion connected with the Glenormiston pro- perty. The foundations of no buildings can be traced within the camp, but some bronze ornaments, already referred to, were found several years ago in digging a part of the ring on the Glenormiston side. The fort is supposed to have communicated the name, Caerlee, signifying castle on the Lee, to the hill on which it is situated. On the opposite side of the Leithen, as a twin guardian of the pass, is Pirn-hill Fort, an irregular oval, 350 feet long by 200 feet broad, consisting of one well-defined ring, and fragments of two others. At present, it is wholly under plantation. From Innerleithen and Traquair in the east, along the heights which overlook the Tweed and its tributaries as far as Tweeds- rnuir, there is a series of forts noticed in the preceding list, all seemingly of a secondary character in point of size as well as in method of construction, and therefore probably more ancient than those which are assumed to have been established as barriers to invasion from the shores of the Forth and Clyde. Among this miscellaneous group, only two or three may be particularised as occupying points of some moment. On two craggy summits of Cademuir are large forts of an irregularly oval form, and of simple construction, which, commanding a view of the Roman camp at Lyne, may perhaps have been erected as places of jealous outlook by the aborigines as early as the first century. Another large fort, also of the simpler kind, consisting of a single oval ring, which embraces an area of 500 feet in length by a breadth of 450 feet, is situated on Hamildean Hill, about a 38 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. mile northward from the Roman camp, and to it may be attributed the same purpose as that of the two forts on Cademuir. As a kind of central stronghold, there is a somewhat remark- able group of hill-forts a short way east from Peebles, where the vale of Soonhope opens on the Tweed. The more prominent of these is one in the midst of a plantation on the summit of Janet's Brae, whence a comprehensive view is obtained of the Tweed from Kailzie to Neidpath, and of the stretch of country south- ward to Hundleshope. Janet's Brae camp had been one of the strongest of the inferior kind. It consisted of two' rings, nearly circular in form. Unfortunately, the works have suffered irrepar- able damage on the south side, and the actual dimensions of the fort cannot be satisfactorily stated. As nearly as we can judge, the outer wall embraced a space which measures 325 by 275 feet across. On the north, where the intrenchments are most complete, the depth of the fosse between the two walls is 2 1 feet, and it extends in an unbroken line 400 feet. The surface of the interior part of the camp, which is very irregular, with a slope westward, is dotted with tumuli, suggestive of the remains of buildings ; and at the centre there is a hollow, now choked with nettles, that may have been caused by old excavations. On a lower pro- tuberance, which we pass in the ascent, there are the remains of a fort of lesser dimensions ; and the remains of another fort, in better preservation, are seen on an adjoining height to the north, called Cardie Hill, covered by Glentress Forest. The ridge on which these forts had been placed had evidently been a favourite spot for oppida of this nature. Northward, on the top of Kittlegairy Hill, overhanging the vale of Soonhope, are seen the remains of a camp which had belonged to the group. It had consisted of three rings, all well defined on the east or higher side, but nearly gone on the north. The largest stretch of this camp, as shewn in fig. 13, is from north to south, in which direction the interior measures 150 feet. In the surviving mounds there are more than the usual quantity of stones, and the foundations of buildings are discernible. The whole of the EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 39 Janet's Brae group of forts are on the property of Sir Adam Hay, Bart. Fig- 13- Kittlcgairy Fort, Soonhope. From the brief description now given of the Peeblesshire hill- forts, it will be observed that they do not differ materially from the ancient camps elsewhere in the south of Scotland, as far as the borders of Northumberland all seemingly being referrible to an early period, but whether in every instance the work of the aborigines must remain doubtful ; for amidst the contentions of natives and invaders, forts may have been lost, won, and altered ; what was commenced as British, may have ended as Anglian or Scandinavian, and that the reverse may have been the case is equally probable. The subject, now only beginning to be awakened, is eminently worthy of elucidation on a scale suffi- ciently comprehensive to bear out a correct and intelligible theory. In connection with these antiquities, we may associate those remarkable earthen terraces covered with a natural sward, which, seen on certain hillsides in different parts of Peeblesshire, have 4O HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. caused not a little perplexity. They consist of a flattish stripe, of varying breadth, from which rises a slope at an easy inclination to a similar stripe above, and so on, to the highest in the series. The height of the intervening slopes, which is by no means uniform, ordinarily varies from ten to twenty or more feet. These terraces, resembling a rude and gigantic flight of steps, always occur on the face of steep hills with a fertile soil, and at the top, or no great distance from it, there is usually a British fort, or a building of more modern date. By the country- people, these terraces are called deases, from their resemblance to grassy seats. One of the more remarkable groups is that at Purvis Hill, Fig. 14. Purvis-hill Terraces. about a mile eastward from Innerleithen. With a southern exposure overlooking the Tweed, they commence on the lower part of the hill, immediately above the alluvial haugh, and thence rise to a height of 450 feet. Altogether, the terraces may have been twelve to fourteen in number, but they have suffered from the excavations for the post-road, which pursues the line of one EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 41 of them, and has obliterated part of another. They rise at first with some regularity, but afterwards become irregular, both as regards extent and the direction in which they lie. While the lower in the series stretch at right angles with the steep of the hill, the higher ones slope upwards somewhat in accommodation to the nature of the ground. The terraces are on a larger scale than ordinary, for they vary from 48 to 130 feet in breadth, and we found the second in the ascent to measure 960 feet in length. The intervening slopes, which are about 14 feet in depth, have at some period been planted with ashes, which now, being well grown, impart that effect, in looking upwards from the public road, which is seen in the winter sketch offered in fig. 14. Surmounting the terraces, on a conspicuous part of the hill, stood the old feudal tower of Purvis Hill, now a heap of ruins. A group of terraces, quite as interesting, though less pictu- resque, is that on the face of a hill in the parish of Newlands, on the farm of Noblehall, once belonging to Romanno, and now included in the estate of Spitalhaugh. Here are reckoned fourteen terraces, one above another, varying from 6 to 12 feet in breadth. Although the hill seems too steep for the plough, it has been brought gradually into culture, and on this account, a portion of the terraces has been unfortunately destroyed. Gordon, in his Itinerarium Septentrionale, early in the last century, speaks of these terraces extending ' for a whole mile, not unlike a large amphitheatre.' In the present day, they are much less in extent. Their arrangement and their now muti- lated appearance will be understood from the following sketch, fig. 15. As so represented, the group measures 500 feet in length by 250 in depth from top to bottom. As the hill bends outwards, the terraces follow the natural curve, and are < by no means regular in their distances from each other, or in keeping distinctly separate. Some are double the dimensions of the rest, and several run into each other. At the summit of the bank, though not immediately over the terraces, is the site of Pendreich-hill fort. Dr Pennicuik makes the following remarks on these terraces, after speaking of the church of 42 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Newlands : * Above this, upon the side of a pleasant green hill in Romanno ground, are to be seen eleven or twelve large and orderly Terrace Walks, which in their summer verdure cast a bonny dash at a distance : And this I take not to be natural, but a work of art ; because upon the top of the hill there is a little round Fortification of earth and stone, with a ditch about it, as if it had been some Roman Garrison, and these Terraces cut out to keep off the horse ; the like being to be seen on the top of several hills in Tweeddale.' Armstrong says of the Fig. 15. Romanno Terraces. terraces that they rise with ' a regular gradation to the top ; from fifteen to twenty feet each ; and which Gordon believes Roman ; though the country-people call it Pictish : The circular intrench- v ment on the Hill would indicate the whole to be British, as there are similar fences on the sides of several hills, called the Red Riggs, near Wooler in Northumberland, where the battle of Homildown, 1492, was fought." George Chalmers attempts an 1 Armstrong's Companion to the Map of Tweeddale, p. 74. EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 43 explanation of these ancient terraces, by saying they ' were undoubtedly intended for various sports.' 1 On the face of the steep hill called Roger's Crag, at Halmyre ; on the hill known as Torwood, near Kailzie ; on the hill below Venlaw House ; also at Kilbucho and some other parts of the county, there are similar terraces, though inferior in point of extent. All have but one character, however much they differ in number or dimensions. It does not appear to us that they can be attributed to the action of either glaciers or water, and all the ordinary speculations respecting them seem equally untenable. There would seem to be but one reasonable solution respecting the origin of these terraces, and that is, that they were designed for horticultural or agricultural operations. This opinion is sustained by what is seen in the way of terrace-husbandry in many parts of the world, and there are good reasons for believing that the practice of laying out steep but fertile hillsides in the same manner prevailed in Scotland at a time when the low grounds were either marshy or covered by forests. On the face of the hill, Arthur's Seat, near Duddingston, is seen a group of terraces of precisely the same character as those we have described, and that they are artificial is placed beyond a doubt by the fact of their being in some cases sustained by a rude species of masonry. The question as to the antiquity of the Peeblesshire terraces generally is not so easily answered. They have probably existed from an early British period ; but it is not less likely that they were kept in use until much later times, and became appendages of feudal keeps. While neither forts nor terraces, nor, indeed, any tokens of the early inhabitants survive in the town of Peebles, the name sufficiently indicates its antiquity. Occupying a dry and fertile spot in a bosom of environing hills, and favoured by an abundant supply of water from the Tweed and the Eddleston, a town sprung up, the centre of a thinly scattered population, and became a defensible post during the contests between the Strathclyde 1 Caledonia^ vol. i., p. 468. 44 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Britons and the Anglo-Saxons. About 547, this last-named people are reputed to have subdued the whole country lying between the Tyne and the Forth, and constituted it the kingdom of Northumbria ; but though Tweeddale was included within this dominion, there is reason to suppose that the Scoto-Irish may have settled and given names to places in the district not long after this early period. It has been thought that to the Scots, who had come from Ireland, and after having colonised the coast of Argyle, spread themselves over the country, Peeblesshire is indebted for the first knowledge of Christianity. But it is as reasonably conjectured that through the preaching of St Ninian, about the begin- ning of the fifth century, the Britons of Strathclyde, those of Tweeddale included, were reclaimed from heathenism to the light of the gospel. During the sixth century, notwith- standing civil commotions, there appears to have been a combined missionary system in the district. Columba, with his associate monks, crossed from Ireland to lona in 565, and favoured by his countrymen who preceded him, he was able to assist in the good work promoted about this period by Kentigern, of the Strathclyde British race, who is remembered under his more familiar designation of St Mungo, and was a contemporary of the British seer, Merlin the Wild, to whom Peeblesshire has the honour of having given a grave. Assigning to Ninian better known as St Ringan the credit of introducing Christianity to a hitherto benighted region, we are perhaps entitled to assume that St Mungo was scarcely less meritorious in giving that degree of consistency to the missionary labours of his time, which afterwards assumed the definite form of parochial and other ecclesiastical divisions. We cannot tell whether this spiritual magnate ever visited Peebles, but his name was long commemorated by a public fountain, known as St Mungo's Well. 1 1 Kentigern, bishop of Glasgow, and contemporary of Columba, enjoys the repu- tation of having christianised the west and south-east of Scotland. Recommended by his knowledge, diligence, and piety, he became known as St Mungo, or 'the EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 45 While during the sixth and seventh centuries, an ecclesiastical system was getting into shape in Peeblesshire, the Scoto-Irish from the west continued their distracting contentions for perma- nent possession of the country, and with such varying success, that numbers made good their settlement among the original British people. It must have been a happy event for the inhabitants of whatever origin, when Eadulf, in 1018, ceded Northumbria to Malcolm II., by which means Peeblesshire was at length incorporated with the kingdom of Scotland, and enabled to participate in measures of general improvement. Beloved,' by which appellation he is alone remembered. This eminent ecclesiastic died in 601. The arms of the city of Glasgow, adopted from the seals of the bishops, still commemorate the miracles which, according to legend, St Kentigem was believed to have wrought the bird representing a robin which he restored to life ; the tree, a frozen bough of hazel which he kindled into flame ; the salmon and ring, the recovery in a fish's mouth of the lost ring of the Queen of Caidyow ; and the bell, that which belonged to him, and was invested with certain miraculous powers. The motto now in use, ' Let Glasgow Flourish,' cannot be traced to a remote period. The following is a representation of the seal of Archbishop Cairncross, 1684-7. THE ANGLO-SAXON AND ANGLO-NORMAN SETTLEMENT. THE absorption of Peeblesshire into the kingdom of Scot- land at the commencement of the eleventh century, enabled it, as has been said, to participate in measures for the improvement of the country. The most remarkable of these measures, for it facilitated every other, was the introduction of feudal usages, along with the hospitable reception of large bodies of Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Norman immigrants of a superior rank. Before Malcolm Canmore ascended the throne, numbers of Anglo-Danes, in consequence of the fall of their power in England, emigrated to Scotland, to which they introduced a knowledge of various useful arts, as well as numerous Scan- dinavian words, which are perpetuated in the vernacular of the Lowland Scotch and also in names of places. But the subse- quent immigrations of Anglo-Saxons needy, accomplished, and ambitious were greatly more imposing. During the reign of Malcolm, large numbers of them arrived in consequence of the Norman Conquest of England, 1066 ; for Margaret, a sister of the refugee Edgar Atheling, who was married to Malcolm, brought a numerous body of English knights in her train. In the successive reigns of Malcolm's two elder sons, Edgar and Alexander I., this hospitable reception of strangers of distinction continued, and in the reign of his third son, David I., 1124 1153, it exceeded all previous example. David's connection with the ANGLO-SAXON AND ANGLO-NORMAN SETTLEMENT. 47 Norman reigning family in England greatly promoted this Anglicising process, which was further aided by the cession made of certain portions of the north of England by Stephen. Through Margaret, his mother the St Margaret of Scottish history David was by blood half an Englishman, and he was wholly educated as one at the Anglo-Norman court. Returning to Scotland, he was in one aspect an English baron, the husband of an English countess, and from these circumstances, as well as the benevolence of his character, disposed to assimilate his kingdom as far as possible to that of England. It is said that he was accompanied into Scotland with a thousand Anglo- Normans, and that these were followed by many more the material out of which, through feudal investiture, were to be created a Scottish baronage and landed proprietary. As may be supposed, the native chiefs did not look without jealousy on this extraordinary incursion of foreigners, but except in the north, where there was much trouble on this account, David had the tact to conciliate his original subjects, by investing them with chartered rights to certain lands in the sense of ' property,' in place of the ill-defined claims on which they had hitherto founded possession. Other circumstances helped to modernise and improve Scot- land at this period. In 1155, Henry II. expelled all foreigners from his dominions, whereupon large numbers of Flemings, acquainted with trade, fisheries, navigation, and handicraft, flocked to Scotland, and there became convenient instruments of civilisation. According to Tytler, 1 who does not give his authority, some of these industrious Flemings settled in Peebles ; and if such was the case, as is not improbable, to them might perhaps be traced the introduction of those woollen manufac- tures which have long been conducted on a humble but useful scale in the place. The creation of burghs, and the rearing up of independent trading communities, formed part of the civilising process 1 History of Scotland > vol. iL, p. 286. Edition, 1829. 48 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. promoted by the wise policy of David I. ; and we are to believe that his aims in this respect, as were those of his predecessors, must have been assisted by the great numbers of English who had from time to time been captured as prisoners in the international wars, and distributed throughout the country. For shelter from the hatred of the aborigines, these unfortunate English captives sought refuge in the towns and royal castles, from which circum- stance it has been said that, before the conclusion of the twelfth century, the Scottish burghs, those in the south especially, were inhabited chiefly by English or their descendants. We are unable to ascertain the extent to which Peebles received this Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Norman infusion, but looking to its situation, and the names of the persons who appear in the lists of inhabitants in the thirteenth century, there is reason to conclude that it largely participated in the general colonisation. Viewing these various circumstances, and fixing attention on the central part of the twelfth century, we see, as in a dissolving-view, Celtic Scotland with its primitive illiterate people fading and vanishing away, and in its place arising Anglicised Scotland, with its titled barons, feudal castles and usages, its expanded civil and ecclesiastical polity, its great monasteries and cathedrals, and its cities and towns, with their groups of free burgesses and incorporated guilds. It was at this period that the banks of the river, and the lesser vales throughout the county of Peebles, began to be studded with those castles of stone and lime of which the remains are still to be seen, and it is at this eventful period, also, we first hear of charters to property, of regular laws, of courts of justice, of collegiate and parish churches, or of any other token of an advanced community. Enriched, privileged, and protected, the church of Rome, as elevated by David above the meagre footing on which it had hitherto been placed in Scotland, is understood to have contributed in no small degree to the general amelioration. The cathedrals and monasteries, by drawing towards them an accomplished body of clergy, became centres of learning, whence ANGLO-SAXON AND ANGLO-NORMAN SETTLEMENT. 49 radiated a knowledge of the English tongue into every district. The records of the principal bishoprics and abbeys, still pre- served, form an invaluable fountain of knowledge respecting this early period of Scottish history ; and to the Cartulary of Glasgow and Chronicle of Melrose, in particular, are we indebted for facts concerning lands and families in Peeblesshire which would otherwise have been forgotten. According to tradition, David was fond of lingering on the banks of the Tweed. He often resided at the castle of Rox- burgh, in the midst of scenery which he adorned with the abbeys of Melrose, Jedburgh, and Kelso, and which had already, through the piety of the Constable Morville, been enriched with the impressive architecture of Dryburgh. In the upper vale of the Tweed, there was less amenity of landscape, but the air was salubrious, the hills and forests formed favourite hunting-grounds, and for the accommodation of the court, there were the royal castles of Peebles and Traquair. Neither of these edifices could have been very extensive, yet they were visited by several kings in succession, and from them state papers were dated. The advantageous situation of the castle of Peebles, placed on the defensible extremity of a peninsula at the confluence of the Eddleston Water with the Tweed, along with other circumstances, caused it to be preferred as a resort by princely personages. It was visited by David L, by his son the Earl Henry, Malcolm IV., William the Lion, Alexander II., and we venture to add Alexander III., whose munificence towards Peebles will require immediate notice. Besides confirming previous grants, David I. endowed Peebles with gifts of lands and privileges adequate to its support. From this time, therefore, the town glides into historical notice, and so likewise does the sherifTdom or county. Justiciary- courts were held at Peebles as early as the reign of William the Lion, 1165 1214; and previous to the death of Alexander III., 1286, Tweeddale had two sheriffs, one at Peebles, the other at Traquair the two being merged in one about 1304, during the occupancy of Edward I. 50 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. At the distance of two miles south from Peebles, within the bosom of the Newby Hills, lies Walthamshope, the name of which has been corrupted into Waddinshope. Here, formerly, the burgesses of Peebles owned a right of common with the privilege of digging peats, which in 1262 became the subject of dispute with Robert Cruik possibly a descendant of the Anglo- Saxon settler who imparted his name to Crookston. As seen by the Acts of the Scots Parliament, 1 this dispute was of suffi- cient importance to call for a precept of inquiry from Alex- ander III., and was finally determined in favour of the burgesses. Of no general interest, the case is curious from the names of the persons composing the jury Archibald of Hopkeiloc, Alexander of Wynkistun, Richard Fermer, Clement of Hopkeiloc, Roger of Kedistun, Michael of Kedistun, Roger Gardener, Archibald of Hundwaluchishope, Adam of Stobhou, Thomas Smith, Richard the son of Godard, Gauri Pluchan, William Shepherd, Walter Shepherd, John Modi, Robert Gladhoc, Cokin Smith, and Adam Hacsmall. Such is the earliest record of names connected with Peebles. Tweeddale can boast of no ecclesiastical structures comparable to the abbeys in the lower and more fertile part of the valley ; but neither was it devoid of buildings which attested the piety and munificence of the Scottish sovereigns and prelates from the twelfth till the fourteenth century. Perhaps through its early connection with the kingdom of Strathclyde, the vale of Tweed was included in the diocese of Glasgow, in which it was embraced until the abolition of the episcopal system at the Revolution. By David I., while still only Prince of Cumbria, the see of Glasgow was re-invigorated and re-endowed, 1116; and shortly after this period, the diocese, for the sake of local supervision, was divided into rural deaneries, each comprehending a group of parishes. By this arrangement, Peebles became a deanery in the archdeaconry of Teviotdale, with a resident dean, the immediate superior of the ministering clergy within his jurisdiction. On 1 Appendix to Preface, vol. i. Large edition. ANGLO-SAXON AND ANGLO-NORMAN SETTLEMENT. 51 consulting the laborious and valuable work of Mr Cosmo Innes, Origines Parochiales Scotice, it will be seen that the deanery of Peebles corresponded with the cluster of parishes composing the county, with the addition of the parish of Yarrow, in which were comprehended several churches and chapels, one of them being St Mary's Kirk, renowned in the ballad and song poetry of Scotland. Vitalised by gifts from David I., the ecclesiastical system within the deanery received a considerable accession by the founding of the parish church of Peebles, dedicated to St Andrew, on the site, as is believed, of a more ancient building. This event, which occurred in 1195, under the auspices of Bishop Joceline of Glasgow, 1 was followed by the enlarged endowment of a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, adjoining the castle of Peebles ; also of a chapel of a similar kind at Chapel-hill, in the neighbourhood. A religious house, called the Hospital of St Leonards, was placed two miles to the east of Peebles, at a place formerly called Chapel Yards, near to the height on which stands Horsburgh Castle ; and to complete the series of ecclesiastical structures within a narrow compass, the church and monastery of the Holy Cross were founded and endowed by Alexander III. Of the foundation of this the greatest ecclesiastical establish- ment in Peeblesshire, several accounts are given, and of these, as most trustworthy, we select that of Fordoun. 2 ' Upon the 9th of May 1261, in the thirteenth year of the reign of King Alex- ander, a magnificent and venerable cross was found at Peblis, 1 Joceline appears to have succeeded Ingleram as abbot of Melrose, 1 1 74 ; about the same time he became bishop of Glasgow, and built the noble crypt of its cathedral between 1181 and 1197. After a long life of ecclesiastical usefulness and munificence in founding churches, he died at Melrose, 1199. See Keith's Catalogue of Scottish Bishops. * John of Fordoun, who died about 1386, is the father of Scottish history. His work, which commences with an account of the world since the creation, comes down to the reign of David I. ; but it was subsequently continued by Bower, abbot of Inchcolm, till the death of James I., 1437. A complete edition of this great historical work (which is in Latin), entitled the Scotichronicon, was published in 2 vols. folio, at Edinburgh, 1759. 52 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. " in presence of various honest men, churchmen, ministers, and burgesses. But in what year, or by whom, the cross was deposited here, is unknown ; though it is supposed to have been buried by certain of the faithful, at the time of Maximian's persecution in Britain, about the year 296. Shortly afterwards, there was found, about three or four paces distant from the spot where the glorious cross was discovered, an urn of stone, contain- ing the ashes and bones of a human body, which seemed to have been cut in small pieces. Whose reliques these were, no one yet knows. They are, however, thought by some to be the remains of the person whose name was inscribed on the stone near which the cross lay ; for on the upper side of that stone was engraven : THE PLACE OF SAINT NICHOLAS THE BISHOP. In this place where the cross had been found, frequent miracles were and continue to be wrought, and multitudes of people flocked thither, and still devoutly flock, making their oblations and vows to God. On which account, the king, by the advice of the bishop of Glasgow, caused a stately church to be erected there, in honour of God and the Holy Rood.' Alexander III. entered devoutly into the undertaking. A church with conventual buildings, containing seventy Red or Trinity Friars, was founded and liberally endowed with land in the neighbourhood and else- where. 1 The shattered remains of the Cross Church, or, as it was sometimes called, the Church of the Holy Rude of Peebles, will come under notice in our description of the town ; mean- while, it is sufficient to say that, augmented by this establish- ment, to which devout pilgrims were attracted from far and wide, the ecclesiastical society of Peebles, towards the end of the thirteenth century, must have been of a very imposing kind. 1 The privileges of the Red or Trinity Friars were confirmed by Pope Innocent IV., 1246. Their houses were named hospitals or ministries, and their superiors ministers (Afittistri). Their substance or rents were divided into three parts, one of which was reserved for redeeming Christian slaves from amongst the infidels. ' Tertia vero pars,' say their constitutions, ' reservatur ad redemptionem captivorum, qui sunt incarcerati pro fide Christi a paganis. ' Their habit was white, with a red and blue cross patee upon their scapular. Their general chapter was held yearly at Whitsunday, ' in octavis Penticostes.' At the Reformation, there were thirteen establishments of Red or Trinity Friars in Scotland. See Keith's Catalogue of Scottish Bishops. ANGLO-SAXON AND ANGLO-NORMAN SETTLEMENT. 53 The abbey of Aberbrothock, as is seen by its charter-book, possessed some property in Peebles, including a hostilagium for the temporary residence of persons connected with that monastic establishment. The following is a translation of the charter on the subject : ' Be it known to all faithful Christian men, wherever the present writing shall be seen or heard, that we, Brother Bernard, by divine permission Abbot of Aberbrothoc and the convent in that place, and of express con- sent of our whole chapter, have given, granted, and by our present charter have confirmed, to William called Maceon, burgess of Peebles, and his heirs, our whole land that we have in the town of Peebles, lying between the land of John of the Lake, on the south, on the one part, and the land of John Williamson, on the north, on the other part, that Laurence de Wedayl held of us, and that the same Laurence before, in worthy faith, by stick and staff, rendered up to us, and all right and claim that he had in the said land, or in any manner might have, for himself and his heirs resigning it entirely for ever ; to hold and have the said William and his heirs in free burgage of us and our successors, with all its advantages, easements, and just pertinents : Saving to us and our successors the right to hold our Court of Regality and other sentences on the said land, when we wish to hold them; the said William and his heirs paying henceforth to us and our successors two silver shillings yearly at the feast of the Holy Trinity, and finding honest lodging, each according to his degree, with his own family, for the Abbot of Aberbrothoc for the time, and his monks, novices, and clerks, bailiffs, and attorneys coming on the business and cause of the monastery, as often as they arrive ; a hall, with a table, trestles, and other furniture, where they can becom- ingly eat ; a spence with a buttery, one or more sleeping-chambers, a decent kitchen, and a stable for their horses ; also, on the coming of the foresaid persons, to find sufficient fuel, as well in the hall and the chamber as in the kitchen ; white candles of tallow, commonly called Paris candles ; straw or rushes for the hall and chamber ; and salt for the table : Moreover, when the messengers or runners of the abbey shall come to the dwelling, they are to be admitted without gainsaying, and the same William and his heirs are not to detain them, but to be at cost, nevertheless, for their food : Also, the said William or his heirs shall, in no manner, sell, mortgage, or alienate the foresaid land and hostilagium, or give them up to any other person, unless with consent of the said abbot and convent for the time being : In testimony whereof, the common seal of our chapter, with one consent, we have caused to be put to the present charter. Witnesses, the same chapter. In the year 1317.'' 1 Registrant Vetus de Aberbrothoc (Bannatyne Club Book), p. 300. 54 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Improvements in the country parts of Tweeddale during the thirteenth century kept pace with those in the burgh. Mills, malt-kilns, and brew-houses were established ; horticulture, through the knowledge of the foreign educated clergy, made considerable progress ; the comforts and tastes of the people were advanced ; and with settled peace, the powers of rural production, as well as of trade, were largely increased. In Peeblesshire, as in other counties, it cannot escape notice that the art of building must have arrived at a high degree of perfection between the reigns of David I. and Alexander III. The hard and somewhat intractable whinstone dug from the hills in the upper region of the Tweed, admits of little elegance in architecture ; but we see that with this material, and lime brought from the borders of Mid-Lothian, castles and churches were reared of great strength and durability. We give, beneath, a representation of two friars, of the class attached to the Cross Church of Peebles. OLD NAMES AND OLD FAMILIES. WITH the twelfth century the great transition century in Scotland the settlement of distinct races terminated in Peeblesshire. To the original British people there had, in course of time, been added, by conquest or peaceful colonisa- tion, Angles from the shores of the Firth of Forth, Picts who had burst through the wall of Antoninus, Scots of Irish descent from Argyle, immigrants of Anglo-Danish lineage, Anglo-Saxon and Anglo-Norman chiefs introduced as feudatories of the crown, and, last of all, as is believed, Flemings expelled by an injudi- cious policy from England. Such was the heterogeneous mixture of inhabitants in this small county seven hundred years ago. Society, with many tokens of advancement, had not yet been harmoniously blended. The Lowland Scotch variety of the Anglo-Saxon speech, still uncouth, was only beginning to pre- dominate. Few persons had surnames. Many were in the condition of vileyns or serfs, and were transferred along with the lands to which they happened to be heritably attached. What chiefly calls for remark in a review of these early times, is the entire disappearance of the aborigines. Sinking by an inevitable law under the influence of men of higher mental type and superior culture, they seem gradually to have been absorbed in the general population, and, as a separate race, are heard of for the last time about the end of the twelfth century. Certain 5 6 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. charters of Malcolm IV. and his brother William the Lion, are addressed to the people of Strathclyde, Tweeddale, and other parts of the bishopric of Glasgow ; as ' Francis, Anglis, Scottis, Walensibus, et Galwensibus,' by whom are meant the Norman- French, English, Scots, British, and men of Galloway ; whence it is evident that, as late as this period, the different races of inhabitants were still distinct, and that the aborigines had not disappeared as an element in the population. But although ultimately obliterated, and leaving no other visible trace of their existence than a few fragmentary remains, this primitive people, as already adverted to, have bequeathed a class of antiquities which will, survive through all time the names, not only of places, but of hills, rivers, and other physical features of the county. Names are, indeed, the greatest antiquarian curiosity in Peeblesshire, and in themselves tell the history of the county. In our topo- graphical details, this will have more special notice ; here it will be sufficient to present a few general illustrations. It will be borne in mind that the original British, Picts, and Scoto-Irish were only varieties of Celts, and spoke dialects of a common language, now represented by Welsh, Gaelic, and Irish. To these three dialects, therefore, belong the older class of names in Peeblesshire, and there being a considerable similarity between them, it is not always practicable to say distinctly by what branch of the Celts the names were imparted. Some are conspicuously British, and none more so than the name Peebles, which carries us back to that remote period when the inhabitants lived as Bedouins of the desert, and planted their tents on spots recommended by their fertility and proximity to water. Pabell, in British, signified a movable habitation, a tent, or pavilion the plural being Pebyll, 1 which would thus mean tents, and be applied to the place where they were pitched. The first corruption of the name consisted in adding s, apparently to give a satisfactory completeness to the word. For ages, the name was written Peblis, the insertion of the double e being recent. Whether 1 Owen's Wdsh Dictionary, 2 vols. 410, 1803. OLD NAMES AND OLD FAMILIES. 57 Pabell can be traced to the same root as that of the Latin Papilio, a pavilion or tent, might form the subject of interesting etymological investigation. 1 The names of the rivers are mostly British. Tweed is usually traced to Tuedd, signifying that which lies on a border or bound- ary ; and if that be the true meaning, the boundary must have been that between ancient tribes, for the term was in use long before the division of the island into England and Scotland. Lyne appears to be derived from the British Llyn, a pool numberless names of rivers having a similar origin. Medwin, Medwyn, or Maidwan, imports that which flows softly (Sanscrit Mid, Latin Mitts). Qttair signifies a stream with a winding course. Leithen is from the British Lleitho, to moisten or over- flow; such being the root of several names of rivers besides that in Peeblesshire. Garvald is generally thought to be from Garw, rough or violent, and alt, a rivulet the rough-flowing stream. Among the Celtic roots embraced in the names in the county are Ard or Urd, a height (Kirkurd) ; Car or Caer, a castle or fort (Cardon, Caerlee) ; Dun, a hill ; Dean, a ravine ; Pen, a peaked and conspicuous mountain (Pen Valla, Lee Pen) ; Coille, a wood (Kailzie) ; Brae, a brow or acclivity ; Cam or Cairn, a monumental heap of stones (Cairnmuir) ; Kil, a chapel (Kilbucho) ; Tor, a swelling mount (Torwood, Torheune) ; Glen, a valley through which water flows ; Tra or Tre, in British, a dwelling or hamlet (Traquair, Trahenna) ; Inver, upon a river (Innerleithen) ; Drum, a ridge (Drummelzier) ; and Knock, a hillock. The term Coom or Coomb, applied to a curved or arched piece of ground, is found in the county, and is from the British cum ; the Welsh cwym, Gaelic cam, Latin cymba, and French combe having the same meaning. Glac, a small 1 Papilio, a pavilion or tent, is ordinarily traced to Papilio, a butterfly, from a fancied resemblance between a tent and the drooping wings of a butterfly, when the insect has alighted. But this is only one stage in the investigation. Whence Papilio, as the name for butterfly? We have above hinted at the possibility of tracing Papilio and Pabell to the same Asiatic root; thereby strictly identifying the name Peebles with the English word Pavilions. 58 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. hollow (The Glack'); Cloiche, stones, or rocks (The Cloich); Racan, arable land (Rachan) ; Rath, a cleared space, also signify- ing a fortress (Glenrath) ; Bo-alt, the cow stream or ford (Bold, formerly spelled Boild) were, with many other terms, contri- buted by a Celtic people. From the Danish language come the affixes by and fell. By originally denoted an estate or farm ; then it was applied to a cluster of farm-buildings ; and lastly, under its Norwegian form of Beer, it originated the Lowland Scotch word byre, a cow-house. The affix by or bie is common in Cumberland (as Kirkby, Netherbie) ; in Peeblesshire, we see it in Newby. Fell (Danish, Fjeld} is seen in Hartfell, on the extremity of the county. The Danish affixes beck, thorpe, and thwaite do not occur in Peebles- shire. Perhaps we might except thwaite, for Moorfoot, the name of a range of hills beginning in Tweeddale, and extended into Edinburghshire, was anciently written Morthwaite. The term gill (the g hard), signifying a mountain recess, claims a similar origin (Islandic, gil), though perhaps remotely allied to the Celtic cuile, a corner. Gill occurs in Chaple-gill, also in Baddinsgill, a corruption of Baldwin's-gill. The resemblance between many words in Norwegian, Danish, and old Saxon, renders it difficult to assign a distinct origin to certain names. No affix is more common in Peeblesshire than Hope, as Soonhope, Gaithope, Waddenshope, &c. The meaning of the term is a valley among the hills, closed at one end, a cul- de-sac ; literally, it denotes a haven or place of refuge (Islandic, Hop}, in which sense it is applied to various maritime resorts. Hope was formerly used also as a prefix for example, in Hopkailzie, the old name of Kailzie. Another term of this Teutonic lineage is Kipp, applied to the pointed summit of a hill ; as Shielgreen Kipps, Newby Kipps (Anglo-Saxon Ccepe, and German Kippe, a point or peak). Law, a hill wholly or partially isolated, is seen in Venlaw, Dollarlaw, and Broadlaw. The name Nidpath, or Neidpath, is of uncertain origin. Some might be disposed to trace the prefix to the British Nyddu, to twist or turn, in which case the meaning of the word would be, OLD NAMES AND OLD FAMILIES. 59 the winding-path a definition that would fairly apply to the spot. But this is not a probable etymology ; it might be quite as rationally conjectured that the prefix is from the Danish Nod (the o pronounced as the French ), signifying nolt or neat-cattle a road used by cattle. In Peeblesshire, as in the south of Scotland generally, Haugh, signifying a rich arable field on the border of a river, is of frequent occurrence, both as applied to ordinary fields of this class, and in names of places (Whitehaugh, Fernihaugh). The origin of the term is doubtful ; some trace it to the Gaelic achadh, but as the oldest known form of the word was halech, it has an affinity to the English hollow, and hence is more probably Teutonic. The affix ' ton,' occurring in the name of a place, ordinarily marks its connection with a personage of Anglo-Saxon origin. Thus, Eadulf, an Anglo-Saxon settler, communicated his name to a vil or ton, which is now known as Eddleston. In like manner, settlers named Cruke, Greve, Kyde, Molk, Orme, Stephen, and Wynke, respectively originated the designations Crookston, Grieston, Kidston, Milkiston, Ormiston, Stevenston, and Winkston the transitions to these latter forms of the words being recognisable in deeds dated two centuries ago, when we see Milkiston written Molkiston ; Kidston, Kydiston ; and Grieston, Greviston. Greve, as is well known, was an Anglo- Saxon designation of a public officer, perpetuated in the Scotch term grieve, a farm-overseer, and in the surname Grieve. The g being dropped, the word is found modernised in borough-reeve and shire-reeve (sheriff). The Greves of Greviston may have been so called from the office which they held immediately after the Anglo-Saxon settlement. Names incorporating burgh or brough are traceable to a similar origin. Thus, a settler presumedly named Orse, or Horse, built a burg or castle, which being styled Horsburgh or Horsbrugh, originated that surname. It would be easy to multiply instances of this kind. Names incorporating chapel, dale, field, hall, head, hill, house, kirk, land, myre, shaw, side, spital, syke, wick, and yards, are of a date coeval with, or subsequent to, the 60 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Anglo-Saxon settlement. In the same category, we might include swire or sware, from the Anglo-Saxon, signifying a neck or pass on the top of a mountain (Manor Sware). It should be added, that those who are disposed to trace the etymologies of names of places in Peeblesshire, as in other parts of the country, will need to guard against the illusions of modern orthography, for neglect on this score, aided by the popular imagination, has led to numberless absurd though amusing errors. The changes which have swept over Tweeddale in the course of seven centuries, leave little to connect the past with the present family history of the county. Lands have, for the greater part, changed proprietors repeatedly, and so many new names have been introduced by marriage or purchase, that we can discern few living traces of the feudal investitures of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The names of places, however, add their testimony to that of public documents respecting the settlers of a comparatively old date. As lately as the reign of Alexander III., many of the proprietors were known only by their Christian names in association with their places of residence ; as, for example, Adam of Orde or Horde, Clement of Hopkeiloc, and John of Tuedy. Whether these and others so designated were of foreign race, cannot now be satisfactorily known. The Tweedies of Drummelzier, admittedly of great antiquity, whatever may be their origin, disappeared in the seventeenth century ; and how many other families of note have also vanished from the county, will become apparent in our topographical department. Of the Vermels or Uermels of Romanno, the Vaches or Veitches of Dawick, the Geddeses of Rachan, the Haswells and Baddebies of Manor, and the Erasers of Neidpath, there is now as little trace as of the Eadulfs, Cruikes, Ormes, Molks, Kydes, and others who bequeathed names to places in the county. The Hays of Yester, afterwards Earls of Tweeddale, who by marriage enjoyed the inheritance of the Erasers, quitted Peeblesshire in the seventeenth century. The Douglases, Earls of March, who succeeded them by purchase, are now OLD NAMES AND OLD FAMILIES. 6l merged in the Earls of Wemyss, who do not reside in the county. The Bardes or Bairds of Posso have been merged by marriage in the Naesmyths of Posso and Dawick. The Burnets of Burnetland and Barns, an ancient family, relin- quished their possessions only in our own times. In short, the scarcity of extremely old families is as remarkable in Peebles- shire as in the south of Scotland generally. Apparently, the oldest in the shire, in an unbroken line, and in occupancy of the original property, is the family of Horsbrugh of that Ilk. Some old families are represented by surviving collateral branches. The Hays of Haystoun connect themselves with an early branch of the Hays of Yester ; and the Murrays, Lords Elibank, trace their origin to the Morefs or Moravias, through the Murrays of Blackbarony. Peebles offers some examples of old families, among others, that of Chambers, who might trace their con- nection with the burgh since the reign of Alexander III. ; such affording a curious instance of residence in the same spot upwards of five hundred years, and perhaps nothing could be advanced so illustrative of the hitherto settled character of this ancient community. ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. DURING the peaceful and prosperous reign of Alexander III., a valuation of lands throughout the kingdom was framed, which is still known as the ' Old Extent.' As regards temporal lands, there is no precise account of the method of valuation, but the plan for valuing the spiritual lands is well known. In 1275, Pope Gregory X. made a demand on the Scottish clergy of a tenth of all their ecclesiastical revenues for six years, for the relief of the Holy Land. For the purpose of collecting the tax, he sent to Scotland the person so famous in after-ages under the name of Bagimont (Magister Baiamundus)^; 1 and the roll which he made up became the Extent or rule of assessment of the lands referred to. The subject is only mentioned here for the purpose of stating that, according to the Old Extent, every separate piece of land in Peeblesshire, as elsewhere, became known as being of a particular value, which till this day attaches to it as a ' ten-pound land,' a ' five-pound land,' a ' fifty-shilling land ' of the Old Extent, and so on. The entire annual valued rental of the lands in the county, according to this Old Extent, was ^"1274, i8s. 6d. 1 See Memorial for Thomas Cranstoun of Dewar, Esq., against Archibald Gibson, Esq. an exceedingly able law-paper in a Court of Session process (1816), drawn up by the late Thomas Thomson, Deputy Lord Clerk Register, and which gives an elaborate account of the Old Extent ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. 63 The distractions consequent on the demise of Alexander III. soon had a detrimental effect on the value of property. Peebles- shire was happily out of the heat of the struggle for the crown, but did not escape its effects. The town and county, influenced possibly by the Erasers, inclined to the claims of Baliol, yet any tendency in this direction saved neither gentry nor burgesses from being obliged, along with others throughout Scotland, to swear fealty to Edward I., chiefly at Berwick, between the years 1291 and 1296. The instruments of homage, which are pre- served, though in a mutilated state, among the State Papers of England, have happily been copied with care, and printed as a volume by the Bannatyne Club, from which an opportunity is afforded of seeing the names of those who attested their alle- giance to the greatest of the Plantagenets, the ' Hammer of the Scots.' The records are usually known by the uncouth title of the RAGMAN ROLLS. In the prefatory note to the printed copy just referred to, the editor says : ' It has been long known that in these records may be found the largest and most authentic enumeration extant of the nobility, barons, landholders, and burgesses, as well as of the clergy of Scotland, prior to the fourteenth century. No part of the public records of Scotland prior to that era has been preserved, from which any detailed information of this kind might have been derived ; and whatever may have been their fate, whether intentionally destroyed, or allowed to perish by mere neglect, certain it is, that to these English records of our temporary national degradation are we now indebted for the only genuine statistical notices of the kingdom towards the close of the thirteenth century.' The records are in the form of a succession of documents, partly in Latin and partly in Norman-French ; the persons concerned presenting themselves in groups from some particular part of the country, or more miscellaneously along with others. To discover who from Peeblesshire subscribed the instruments, it is necessary to go over the whole book, and select them where they occur, though, after all, the list which can be so made up is far from perfect. The first name to be recognised is that of Symon 64 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Eraser, which appears in the roll for 1291, among the names of the leading barons and ecclesiastics. In the roll for 1296, the following are given as connected with the town or county. We begin by copying exactly the paragraph which embraces the names of the persons belonging to Peebles. ' Item, A tous ceaus qui cestes lettres veront ou orront William de la Chaumbre Bailif e Burgois de Pebbles, Johan Vicaire del Eglise de Pebbles, Adam de Hord, David le fiz Andrew, Nichol Northincheton, Reinaud Hardegrepes, Johan le fiz Wautier Gretheud, Henry Rauesmaugh, Symond le Frere Wautier, Symond le fiz Geffrey, Pieres le fiz Geffrey, e Roger Blind Burgois, e tote la communaute de Pebbles, saluz. Pur ceo' [&c., consisting of the declaration that, for themselves and their heirs, they pledge their faith and amity to Edward, the king of England, and his heirs ; in testimony of which they swear on the Holy Evangels]. The other names connected with Peeblesshire are mixed up with miscellaneous groups, as follows : * William Freser, Thomas de la Chaundel, William de Maleuill del Counte de Pebles, Patrik de Maleuill, William Perel, Roger le Mareschal, William de Maleuill, William de Creleng, Wautier Lillok, Thomas Lillok, Rogier de Mohaut, Rauf del Pount de Pebbles, Hugh of the Leigg, William de Hopkeliogh, Johan le Naper, Adam Le Feure de Ersledoun, William Forneys, tenauntz le Roi du Counte de Pebbles. Wautier Comyn de Counte de Pebbles. Thomas Walgh del Counte de Pebbles. Robert de Hastinges, Adam de Pendenau, Johan Flemyng, Erchebaud de Moref, William de Appleton, Johan de Hatal, Johan de Meldon, William Wywun- desone, Laurence Fresel, Johan Hope, Malcolm Erchebaudessone, Thomas Buntyng, Osbern Chartres, William Baret, Thomas de Ledyorde, Alisaundre Dudyn, Laurenz atte Boure, Nicol Kerre, Andreu le Seeler, Esteuene de Glenwhym, Thomas le Louerd, Bernard de Mouhat, Alisaundre de Droghkil, Jacob Freman, Johan Gilberdessone, Adam Louely, William le Vache, Cristin Lockard, Gibbert Darel, Johan Eyr de Mespennon, Robert de Threpeland, Esteuene de Steuenston, William de Erth, ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. 65 William Frisith, Anable de Cambos, del Counte de Pebbles. Adam de Horde, del Counte de Pebbles. Wautier le Scot, del Counte de Pebbles. William del Skrogges, Patrik del Gyle, William fiz Richard, del Counte de Pebbles. Johan de Lil- leselyue del Counte de Pebbles, Wautier Comyn del Counte de Pebbles. Johan de Baddeby del Counte de Pebbles. Meihel de Dunde persone del Eglise de Stubbehok, Frere Thomas mistre de la meson de la Seinte Croice de Pebbles, Mistre Richard de Boulden persone del Eglise de Edalston, Thomas Lillok, del Counte de Pebbles.' On the most careful examination, we fail to discover the names of certain old families which might have been expected to be in one or other of the rolls ; but this is perhaps to be accounted for by imperfect transcription, or the loss of some of the documents. The volume from which we copy, contains no names of female land-proprietors, a deficiency compensated by a 'list of ladies who swore allegiance to the king of England in 1296, transcribed from the original in the Tower of London,' and printed in Borthwick's Inquiry into Feudal Dignities? also in the Rotuli Scotia. The list comprises the names of thirty-four proprietresses, among whom appears ' Sarra of Glen, Peeblesshire.' Incomplete as the different rolls may happen to be, they are full of interest. The names of several places will be recognised Leigg or Lee ; Hopkeliogh or Kailzie ; Orde or Horde [Kirk- urd] ; Ladyurd ; Stubbehok or Stobo ; Edalston or Eddleston ; Thriepland ; Mosfennan; Drochil; Glenholme; and Stevenston. The Le Vaches or Veitches, as already noted, were long posses- sors of Dawick. In ' Erchebaud de Moref,' we see the progeni- tor of the Hurrays. ' Frisel ' is recognised as the old form of Fraser. Only a few in the roll had surnames. Several are distin- guished as the fiz or son of their father; the names of these being in a state of transition, the son of Andrew becomes Anderson, and the son of Geoffrey turns into Jefferson. Others are on the eve of change : William de la Chaumbre undergoes a 'Edinburgh, i vol. 8vo, 1775. E 66 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. transformation into William Chambers, and Le Naper becomes Napier. 1 John the vicar of the church, and Rauf the keeper of the bridge, are known by their professions. Readers may find some amusement in trying to connect old with modern names as Walgh with Waugh, Lillok with Lillie, and Frisith with Forsyth. 2 Edward I. is known to have visited Peebles, and to have granted charters dated from its royal castle. In 1304, he assigned Peebles with its mill and other pertinents to Aymer de Valence, his warden of Scotland. It is not unreasonable to suppose that gifts of this nature were recalled by Robert Bruce, styled Robert I., who gave large grants to his faithful adherents the Douglases. Robert I. is known to have granted a charter to the burgh of Peebles, including freedom to hold a fair ; but the docu- ment is among the missing state records. 8 In the year in which Bruce died, 1329, Peebles was visited by his son, Prince David, 4 then a boy of six years of age, who ascended the throne as David II., and during the early years of whose minority the government was conducted by Randolph Earl of Moray. Whether the prince visited Peebles for the sake of his health 1 We have an amusing instance of the fabulous origin of names in the popular account of the origin of the ancient and honourable family of Napier : ' King David II. (so goes the story), in his wars with the English, about the year 1334, assembling his subjects to battle, the Earl of Lennox sent his second son, Donald, with such forces as his duty required. In an engagement which followed, the Scots gave way, when Donald, taking his father's standard from the bearer, and valiantly charging the enemy with the Lennox-men, the fortune of battle changed, and they obtained the victory. When the battle was over, every chief advanced and reported his acts; according to custom, to the king, who declared that they all behaved valiantly, but that there was one among them who had nae pier, or no equal ; upon which, Donald took the name of NAPIER, and had, in reward for his good services, the lands of Gosfield and other estates in the county of Fife. ' It is unfortunate for this ingenious narrative, that there was a ' Johan le Naper ' in the county of Peebles, and also a ' Mathew le Naper de Aghelek,' in the county of Forfar, both of whom appear in the Ragman Roll in 1296, five-and-twenty years before the birth of David II. * The corruption of names, arising from a tendency to abbreviate and to adopt leading sounds, is conspicuous in the following instances, some of which occur in the Ragman Roll Montfitchet, is transformed into Muschet, Montalt into Mouhat or Mowat, Vache into Veitch, Baddeby into Baptie, Vermel into Wurmel, and Grosse- teste (Greathead) into Grozet. 3 Robertson's Index to the Charters, p. 1 5, No. 4. * Chamberlain Rolls, vol. i. p. 62. ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. 67 for in old times the town was a favourite country retreat of royalty or as a matter of amusement at the Beltane festival, cannot now be known. During his temporary and imperfect possession of Scotland, consequent on the battle of Halidon Hill, Edward Baliol, in 1334, surrendered to Edward III. a large portion of the south of Scotland, including the county of Peebles. 1 The north-western boundaries of the ceded territory were to be Carlops, and the hill of Crosscryne ; so says Wynton in his rhyming Chronicle ' At Karlynlippis and at Cros-cryne, Thare thai made the marches syne.' It cannot be supposed that the people of Peeblesshire relished this transfer, for the country was overrun by an English force, which made many heavy exactions. The return of David II. from France, where he had been educated, imparted a gleam of hope to Scotland, but his disastrous defeat at the battle of Durham, 1 346, when he was taken prisoner and carried to London, threw the country back to its former deplorable condition. Negotia- tions for peace and the ransom and delivery of David having taken place in 1356, a parliament met next year to ratify the stipulations. To this important assemblage of the Scottish Estates, Peebles deputed two commissioners, ' Nicholas the son of John, and John the son of William' such being, perhaps, the first time representatives were ever sent from Peebles. By the arrangements on this occasion, the English claims on Scotland were finally extinguished. Perhaps with the view of insuring the loyalty of the burgh, and affording it the means of better defence as a border town, David II. confirmed its former privileges, and constituted it a royal burgh by charter, dated 24th September 1367. There was a need for every such encouragement. The wars of the succession had produced wide-spread desolation, many lands had gone out of culture, woods the pride of the country had been partially destroyed and sunk to waste, leaving in their place 1 llailes's Annals of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 210. 68 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. marshes with decaying timber, which, in the course of nature, were transformed into those dismal peat-mosses which disfigured the landscape until reclaimed by the operations of the agricul- turist. Bands of impoverished and houseless natives wandered about as beggars or robbers ; and from this time until after the union of the crowns, whether England and Scotland were at war or peace, the vale of Tweed was exposed to a constant succession of wasteful and marauding expeditions. In the space of a century, the annual value of the lands in the county diminished a third. From 1274, IBs. 6d., according to the Old Extent, the value in 1368 had fallen to 863, 13^. ^d. Secluded in the bosom of a mountainous country, at the distance of fifty miles from the border, Peebles and the district around it were not exposed to such frequent forays as Jedburgh, Kelso, and Melrose. Neither town nor country, however, was exempted from these predatory visits, and freebooters from the border swept the country of its cattle, and all they could lay their hands on as far as the head of Eddleston Water and the Kingside Edge. As regards professed warfare, the whole country along the Tweed occasionally suffered a species of temporary desolation, not only by the vengeance of invaders, but by the natives laying everything waste on the approach of the enemy. This continued (says a master of the subject) ' to be the Scottish defensive system for many ages, and of course, while it exposed invaders to hardships, loss, and want of subsistence, it reduced the frontiers of their own countiy, for the time, to a desert waste. Beacons were lighted in such a manner as to signify either the threatened approach, or actual arrival, of the English army. These were maintained by Hume Castle, at the tower of Edgers- hope or Edgerstane, near the sources of the Jed, upon the ridge of the Soltra Hills, at Dunbar, Dunpender (or Trapraine) Law, North Berwick Law, and other eminences ; and their light was a signal for the Scottish forces to assemble at Edinburgh and Haddington, abandoning to waste and pillage all the southern counties." ' 1 Border Antiquities, by Sir Walter Scott, vol. i. p. 55. ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. 69 The feudal fortlets of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries were now strengthened, if not increased in number, and to these Peel or Bastel Houses, all who could conveniently do so fled for refuge on the signal of invasion. These old castles, now generally in ruin, constitute a remarkable class of antiquities in the county. Among the oldest is Neidpath, but the additions made to it have disguised or masked its original character. Traquair has under- gone a similar change. The castle of Peebles is entirely gone, its site being occupied by the church and a bowling-green. The other buildings of this kind consist of strong Peel Houses, by no means elegant in appearance, but rugged, stern, and gray, and which, though in ruin, still seem to offer defiance to the action of the weather. None of these buildings approaches in size or grandeur to Naworth, Hermitage, or Tantallon. Peebles- shire had no titled barons of an early date. During the border wars, its proprietors were chiefly of the rank of lairds, 1 of whom a few were knights, possessing considerable local power through allied kindred. Their castles were, for the greater part, of the ordinary peel-house character three stories in height, each story consisting of an arched vault, with a narrow stair winding up in one corner to the top. The walls were of excessive thickness, four to five feet being common ; and they were provided with doors strongly studded with iron. The general absence of sandstone in the county caused these peels to be constructed entirely of the dark grauwacke stone, in small, irregular-shaped pieces, bound by a lime cement of immense durability. The accommodation offered by these dwellings must have been exceedingly limited ; for, setting aside the lower vault for cattle, the two upper apartments alone remained for the family. But as each of these apart- ments is usually not more than twelve feet square, it is more 1 The Scotch term, laird, is synonymous with the lord, dominus, or absolute proprietor of lands held direct from the crown. If lands be held from a subject- superior, as often happens, the proprietor is in legal phraseology a vassal, and no matter how extensive his possessions, is in point of social dignity only a goodman or yeoman. See Science of Heraldry, book i. , chap. 2 ; also Sir George Mackenzie's Works* vol. ii. 70 HISTORY OF PEEELESSHIRE. than probable that the chief members of the household, or at least the armed retainers, lived outside in huts, and resorted to the tower only as a temporary refuge. Each of the upper floors had a capacious fireplace and chimney, and was provided with apertures they can scarcely be called windows to admit air and light. On the summit was a small bartizan or point of outlook, on which was an iron grate containing fuel ready to be lit as a bail-fire to give signal of approaching danger. In general, the towers were provided with a quadrangular court- yard, in front, surrounded with a wall, the gate of which would of course require to be forced before an assault could be made on the grated door. The lines in the Eve of St John will occur to remembrance ' He pass'd the court-gate, and oped the tower-grate, And he mounted the narrow stair, To the bartizan-seat, where, with maids that on her wait, He found his lady fair. ' On the line of the Tweed with its lateral valleys, the towers are placed at intervals of a mile to two miles, from the lower to the higher parts of the county. On the side of a hill, within the verge of Selkirkshire, stands the ruin of Elibank Tower, of greater than ordinary dimensions, which was once the seat of the Murrays, and now gives title to the Lords Elibank. This imposing tower on the south bank looked towards one at Holylee, also within Selkirkshire, but on the north bank. Thence the communication through Peeblesshire was kept up, generally zigzagging across the river, to Scrogbank, Caberstone, Bold, Flora, Purvis Hill, Pirn, Traquair, Grieston, Ormiston, Cardrona, Nether Horsburgh, Horsburgh, Peebles, and Neidpath. At Peebles, signals went northwards to Smithfield, Hutchinfield, Shielgreen, Foulage, Cringletie, Blackbarony, and the high grounds on the borders of Mid-Lothian. Southwards, Peebles communicated with Haystoun. Pursuing the course of the river upwards, Neidpath was seen at Caverhill, which sent signals up Manor Water, and also to Barns, whence there were communications with Lyne, Easter Happrew, Dawick, Stobo, ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. Jl Dreva, Tinnis, Drummelzier, Stenhope, Quarter, Wrae, Mos- fennan, Kingledoors, Oliver Castle, Polmood, and Hawkshaw. Ascending the Lyne, there were towers to be communicated with at Wester Happrew, Stevenston, Callands, Kirkurd, and Skirling ; also Romanno, Halmyre, Carlops, Coldcoat, Briglands, Whiteford, and probably some other places. From this hasty sketch, it will be seen how, according to a rude species of telegraphing, by means of smoke by day and fire by night, aided as the towers were by certain hill-top signals, it was practicable to rouse the whole county in a short space of time. It was one of the ancient laws on the marches, that ' he who did not join the array of the country upon the signal of the beacon-lights, or who left it during the continuance of the English invasion without lawful excuse, should suffer forfeiture of his goods, and have his person placed at the warden's will.' Fig. 16. Cardrona Tower in ruins. In order to shew the general appearance of the old castles in the county, we offer a sketch of that of Cardrona. One of the most picturesque of the series, it is situated on the face of a hill, HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. overlooking the Tweed, parish of Traquair, and was anciently the seat of the Govans, but now belongs to the family of Williamson. For security against hostile intrusion, the inhabitants of Peebles endeavoured to environ their town with a wall, which, in its earlier forms, however, consisted only of a continuation of dykes at the foot of the gardens belonging to the different proprietors ; and the obligation to keep their respective dykes in repair appears from the burgh records to have been imposed as a public duty. It need hardly be said that this species of fortifica- tion could have offered no serious obstacle to a strong body of invaders. For further security, the dwellings of the inhabitants were constructed with the lower floor in the form of an arched vault. Scott, in his Border Antiquities, speaks of the number of bastel-houses in Jedburgh, Melrose, and Lessudden, this last place having as many as ' sixteen strong bastel-houses when burned by Sir Ralph Evers in 1544.' We know not from any authority how many were the strengths of this kind in Peebles, nor what was their height. Altered in the course of successive improvements, the bastel-houses in Peebles have not within memory consisted of more than two to three stories, and exteriorly were unpretending thatched houses. The only vaulted floor was that level with the ground ; it was provided with a low arched doorway, such as is repre- sented in fig. 17, but with no access to the floor above, that having been by an outside stair. Originally, the stair may have been of wood, and Door of a Bastel-house, removable on signs of danger. The roof, we believe, was invariably of was so easily fired by an enemy, that the a border town was readily accomplished ; but Fig. 17. Peebles. thatch, which burning of thatching had this advantage, that in cases of desperation, the inhabitants tore the roofs from their dwellings, and ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. 73 piling the materials in the street, set the whole on fire, in order to stifle and interrupt the progress of the invaders. A scene of this kind, with thatch blazing, and swords and lances gleaming, accompanied with shouts of assault and defiance, is required to fill up the picture of past times in Peebles. One can almost fancy the scene of consternation which occurred in one of these border forays at the beginning of the fifteenth century. About 1406, in the course of the wars which marked so dis- mally the regency of the Duke of Albany, Sir Robert Umphra- ville, Vice-admiral of England, made an incursion into Scotland, and attacking the town of Peebles on a market-day, made great spoil of the wares there collected, causing his men to measure out the cloth with their bows and spears. According to Hardyng's Chronicle, Umphraville acquired from this fact the name of Robin Mendmarket At Peebles .... He brent the town upon thair market-day, And mete their cloth with spears and bows sere, By his bidding without any nay ; Wherefore the Scots from thenceforward ay Called him Robin Mendmarket in certain, For his measures were so large and plain. According to other authors, he acquired the name in consequence of a foray which he made by sea four years later, when a dearth prevailing in England, he returned with such store of victual as to bring down prices. The once powerful Northumberland family of Umphraville has decayed and gone out in extreme poverty. One of the last of the family, Mr William Umfreville, keeper of St Nicolas's Workhouse, Newcastle, died in indigent circumstances in 1789. He possessed what was said to be the sword of the Sir Robert who assaulted Peebles in the manner aforesaid. Shortly after the event just related, considerable light is thrown on the history of Peebles, in consequence of its connection with the very interesting poem entitled Peebles to the Play, ascribed to James I. of Scotland, who has given more celebrity 74 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. to the town by this literary production than any person in ancient or modern times. James was the second son of Robert III., and was born in 1393. In consequence of the murder of his elder brother, David, he became the heir to the throne, and while a boy of ten years of age, he was sent by his old and infirm father to be educated at the court of France. On his voyage thither, he was captured by an English squadron, and taken prisoner to London, where, by orders of Henry IV., he was confined two years. Afterwards liberated from strict confinement, he was still, contrary to international law, and, as is believed, at the instance of his uncle, the Duke of Albany, now Regent of Scotland, retained as a prisoner for fifteen years. The injustice of his seizure and confinement, as has been said by Walpole, was amply compensated by the generous attention bestowed on his education. Favoured by natural genius, James became a prodigy of talents and accomplishments. He is said to have been a proficient in every branch of polite literature ; in grammar, oratory, Latin and English poetry, music, jurisprud- ence, and the philosophy of his times. In all athletic exercises, particularly in the use of the sword and spear, he was emi- nently expert ; and his dexterity in tilts and tournaments, in wrestling, in archery, and in the sports of the field, was perfectly unrivalled. 1 On the death of Albany, and by payment of a heavy ransom, James was restored to his Scottish subjects ; his liberation being signalised by his marriage with Lady Jane Beaufort, daughter of John Earl of Somerset, to whom he had become attached during Fig. 1 8. 1 Royal and Noble Authors, hy Horatio Walpole, Earl of Orford, v. 5. ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES I. 75 his captivity. James I. was crowned in 1424, and his poem of Peebles to the Play was in all probability suggested by his visits to Peebles during the ensuing ten years. The date of the piece may be referred to about 1430, at which period the ecclesiastical establishments of Peebles were in their glory, and the town was rendered attractive by a famous anniversary of rural sports on Beltane-day, or the ist of May. For the accommodation of the royal retinue on such occasions, there was some choice in the convent of the Cross Church, and the house of the dean of Peebles ; also the ancient castle connected with the town, and the adjoining castles of Neidpath and Smithfield. The festivities of Beltane originated in the ceremonial observances of the original British people, who lighted fires on the tops of hills and other places in honour of their deity Baal ; hence Beltane or Beltien, signifying the fire of Baal. 1 The superstitious usage disappeared in the progress of Christianity, but certain festive customs on the occasion were confirmed and amplified, and the rural sports of Beltane at Peebles, including archery and horse- racing, with much holiday fun and jollity, drew crowds not only from the immediate neighbourhood, but from Edinburgh and other places at a distance. The festival of Beltane was so conformable to James's good- humour and love of manly sports, that we can easily understand how he should have loved to visit Peebles, and be a witness, if not partaker, in the scene of amusement. Nor are we to forget that, in commemorating the revelries, he shews an acquaintance- ship with various places in the neighbourhood, and also of the language and manners of the people, which could scarcely have been obtained by report. If he wrote the poem at all, he did so from personal observation, and that he was its composer, is generally acknowledged. The poem of Peebles to the Play commences with a gathering 1 The term Beltein or Beltane is derived from Beal or Reil, the Celtic god of light, or sun-god, a deity mentioned by Ausonius (309-392 A.D.), and tin or /', fire. This heathen festival was once . common to all the Celtic nations, and had been brought by them from the East. See Chambers's Encyclopedia, article BELTEIN. 76 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of the people from all parts of the adjacent country to attend the fair or festival. We may quote a few verses of this curious old poem, only modernising the spelling. It thus begins : ' At Beltane, when ilk body bounds To Peebles to the Play, To hear the singing and the sounds, Their solace, sooth to say. By firth and forest forth they found, They graithit them full gay ; God wait that wold they do that stound, For it was their feast-day, They said, Of Peebles to the Play. All the wenches of the west Were up ere the cock crew : For reeling there might nae man rest, For garray 1 nor for glew.' 2 Various places which still retain their old names in the neigh- bourhood, are referred to as furnishing detachments of the company : ' Hope-Cailye and Cardrona, Gatherit out thick fald, With " Hey and howe, rohumbelow." 3 The young folks were full bald. The bagpipe blew, and they out-threw Out of the towns untald : And sic ane schout was there amang, When they were ower the wald, There west, At Peebles to the Play.' A tavern-scene, and a quarrel and fight which there arose, with some laughable circumstances, are then described : ' They thrang out of the door at ance, Withouten ony reddin' ; Gilbert in ane gutter glayde, He gat nae better beddin*. There was not ane of them that day Wad do ane other's bidden ; Thereby lay three-and-thritty-some, Trunland in ane middin Of draff, At Peebles to the Play.' 1 Garray, preparation, dressing. * Glew, glee. 8 Name of a tune. ALEXANDER III. TILL JAMES L 77 The twenty-sixth stanza concludes the poem : ' By this the sun was setting fast, And near done was the day ; There men might hear shakin' of chafts When that they went their way. Had there been mair made of this sang, Mair should I to you say ; At Beltane, when ilk body bounds To Peebles to the Play.' As a literary production of a Scottish monarch in the fifteenth century, Peebles to the Play is, in many respects, remarkable. It may be observed by those who examine the poem, that it is written in the same kind of language as that of Chaucer's Pilgrimage to Canterbury, and contains words which, though dropped from modern English, are still retained in the Scottish vernacular, such as graithit, dressed ; reddin', allaying disorder ; cJiafts, jaws ; ilk, every; and so on. An allusion in the poem to the ' Holy rood ' points to the veneration in which the cross of St Nicholas was held. A fair is still held at Peebles on the second Wednesday of May, and called Beltane Fair. As lately as the middle of last century, it was distinguished by a horse- race, when the magistrates gave a considerable prize. That the term Peebles to or at the Play, popularly signified the annual festival in the town, is apparent from the opening stanzas of Christ Kirk on the Green, a poem, also descriptive of rural revelries, ascribed to James V. ' Was ne'er in Scotland heard nor seen Sic dancin' nor deray, 1 Neither at Falkland on the Green, Or Peebles at the Play.' In taking leave of the Beltane festival, it is pleasing to know that its accomplished commentator, James I., was long retained in grateful remembrance by the community of Peebles, as is evidenced by their endowment to say a mass daily in the parish church, for the soul of the royal poet, who was barbarously murdered at Perth, 1437. 1 Deray, mirthful disorder. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. ESTABLISHED as a royal burgh, and confirmed in ancient privileges and possessions by David II., Peebles received a renewal of its charter from James II., who ascended the throne in 1437 ; and it is during his reign, namely, on the 4th of October 1456, that the records of the burgh commence, or, more properly, it is from that date that any of them have been preserved. Unfortunately, these records, as is not unusual with documents of that kind, have suffered such serious damage as in many places to be illegible, while large portions, extending over many years, are entirely gone. Making use of the records as far as practicable, we find a variety of particulars worthy of being extracted, not only as illustrative of past manners, but as significant of the legislative authority at one time exercised in local matters by town-councils. Grouping together at first a few extracts, we shall afterwards intersperse them as they may be available in our narrative according to date. 1 1456, Oct. 4. The hed court of the burgh haldyn Monenday the ferd day of the monith October ; ye sitting callet, the court affirmit ilk absent in amersiment. [Every absent member fined.] B. R. Item, In yt ilk day, Will Bullo stud up in ye court, and claimit of 1 In our extracts from these and other old records, we have deemed it advisable to modernise the orthography of some of the words. We likewise generally substitute common for Roman numerals. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 79 William of Peblys a sartan soum of gold and silver quhilk he had gyfen him beyond ye se to keip, and ye said Will of Peblys denyit that he aweth ayther tyl him gold or silver. [Bailies order the parties to be put to their ' grit oth.'] B. R. 1458, Oct. 2. It was ordained that ony browster that brak prys sail be fined for the first faut, a galon of ale ; the neist faut, twa ; the third faut, three ; the ford faut, viii s. B. R. From innumerable entries of this kind we learn that fines were a prolific source of revenue. It would appear that when the burghal authorities resolved on any costly public improvement, they set about to statute and ordain divers fines, in order to raise the requisite funds. There was no lack of matters calling for this species of interference ; fights, ' distrowbling,' flyting or scold- ing, placing dunghills on the street, lowering the legalised prices of ale, bread, meat, candles, and other articles, buying from unfreemen, forestalling or purchasing goods wholesale before they were exhibited publicly at the market-cross, and the admission of burgesses, being all considered fair subjects of fine. October 15, 1459, four persons on being admitted burgesses were bound to make a yard of causeway each ; and on 2ist of April following, two new burgesses were obliged to make a rood of causeway each, or pay ten shillings. The burgh being in want of a ' knok ' or town-clock, proceeded to impose fines for the purpose. 1462, Oct. 26. Whoever brak the prys of brede or ale, sail be fined twelve pence to ye buying of a knok. Item, That ilka man has his dike made by Martimas under pane of twa shillings taken to ye knok. Item, That straikens [coarse linen] that gang to ye market be rowand round and not square ; also, whosoever there be that fechts or tulzies to the distrowbelling of ye town sail pay twa shillings to ye knok buying; also, that whoever buys skins, wool, hides, or quhite claith fra unka men of the pak, sail be fined sixpence to ye knok. B. R. 1464, March 26. It is statut and ordained that nane pass out of ye yetts of ye town to buy hides, skins, fut-fell or lamb-skins, nor yet other goods under a fine of eight shillings. B. R. June 10. Thomas Henderson, ye miller, made burgess, sail pay for his freedom threttie shillings, to the making of ye butts. B. R. Placed between two waters, Peebles has been somewhat 8O HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. celebrated for its bridges one of large dimensions across the Tweed, also several across the Eddleston Water, one of which has communicated a name to the Briggate. The date of Tweed bridge, consisting of five stone arches, has hitherto baffled investigation. The name ' Rauf del Fount,' which occurs in the Ragman Rolls of 1296, might suggest that this lofty edifice was erected previous to that period ; for we cannot imagine that Rauf's post was at any of the minor Eddleston Water thoroughfares. Independently of the fact, that few stone bridges of a date earlier than the four- teenth century are found in Scotland, we have ascertained with tolerable certainty, from the Burgh Records, that the existing stone bridge across the Tweed at Peebles was not constructed earlier than the latter part of the fifteenth century. According to local tradition, the bridge is said to have been built at the cost of two ladies of Neidpath, but who these were is not reported. The work is evidently too vast for private benevolence, and we must consider it to have been a public undertaking, to which the inhabitants of the town materially contributed in money, labour, and materials. As the bridge is dressed with sandstone, which, along with the lime for the whole structure, must have been brought by an imperfect means of conveyance from a distance of sixteen to eighteen miles, the costliness and the time required to complete the building can easily be understood. As a work of importance to the whole upper section of the Tweed, no pains have evidently been spared to construct it according to those strict rules of art for which the masons of past times gained their peculiar distinction. ^H Fig. 19. Mason-marks on Tweed Bridge. On examining the squared blocks of sandstone composing the piers, they are seen to be indented with the species of marks which, from time immemorial, have been in use by members of the masonic fraternity, for the purpose of respectively JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 8 1 identifying their work. Though several centuries old, the mason-marks are so sharp and well defined as to be readily recognisable. They are usually about three inches in length, and their character will be understood from the few specimens in the preceding cut In modern times (1834), the bridge has been widened and extended, but the ancient portion remains to attest the original dimensions and durable character of the structure. Previous to the alterations, the bridge was provided with recesses over the piers, where foot-passengers could take refuge to avoid collision with cattle or carriages. Over one of the middle piers the second from the town there were indications of the site of a keeper's dwelling, to which had been attached a toll-house and gate. Here may have been the residence of Rauf del Fount's successors in office a situation more picturesque than con- venient, but the inhabitants could have had little to fear from the attack of southern invaders, for their outpost was within hail of the castle of Peebles and its vigilant men-at-arms. The first notice we have of the bridge being in hand, is that of the appointment of seven individuals, styled ' Bryg-masters/ who are authorised to exact a certain amount of labour from each householder. 1465, Feb. 2. This day were chosen Bryg-masters, Master Thomas of Cockburn, S. Richard Purdy, William Smayll, John Mador, Die. Cant, James Gibson, and Wyll of Balcaskie. The same day, ye nychbours consented that what tyme the bryg masters chargit them to cum to work to ye bryg, they sail cum, under the payn of a man's day's work, and that is sixpence [a halfpenny sterling]. B. R. 1467, Jan. 1 8. The inquest fand that the land lyand upon ye coignie neist ye south half of S. John Hotson's land, aued yeirly to ye Rood licht a pund of walx. B. R. May 9. The haill toun consentit that what tyme that ane be warnit to cum to work at ye bryg, and cums not, sail pay for that day four- pence, and this not to be forgiven. B. R. 1468, Jan. 1 6. It is ordained that what nychbour resets players at ye dice, either hazart or rafell, in his hous, either be nicht or day, there sail be tane off ye man that ye hous belangs to, five shillings withouten favour, to ye bryg wark. B. R. F 82 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 1468, Oct. 3. The bailies ordain that what sum falls in an unlaw sail be givin to ye bryg, and this sail be withouten favour. Item, It is ordained for the keepin of the toun fra the pestilans, that the four ports of ye toun sail be closit, and kept daily by a man for ilk yett, under payn of eight shillings to him yt fails, and the eight shillings to be given to ye bryg. Item, It is ordained that na man sail gang to Edin- burgh, under the payn of banishment of the toun for a yeir, but by the leave of these six men, William of Peebles, John Mador, Patrik of Temple, Wyl. Smayll, John Blaklok, and Thomas Morthosen. Item, It is ordained that na man sail harbour nor receive no man but with the leave of the quartermasters ; and that quarter where the pest cums, the quartermasters to be advysed and counsellet with the flesh prysers. B. R. 1469, May 20. The quhilk day, Simon Patenson made burgess, and sail make for his freedom the dyke of ye Venlaw down to ye east neuk. [On other new-made burgesses similar obligations are laid ; one is to pay ten shillings, the value of six of which to be taken in trees to the ' yetts of ye Venlaw.'] B. K. 1470, Oct. 15. The inquest statut and ordain that na swine sail be allowed to run about to na man's skaith, under payn of being slauchterit wherever they be overtaken. B. R. The inquest here and elsewhere referred to, appears to have been an institution separate from that of the magistracy. In the records it is often called the 'doussan,' or 'doussain/ and consisted of from nineteen to twenty-seven persons, elected annually at Michaelmas. Immediately after their election, they proceeded to appoint ' ale tasters,' and, ' flesh prysers,' for the year, and to pass regulations respecting trade in the burgh. For a number of years about this period, ' George of Elphynston ' heads the list of the ' doussan.' 1471, Michaelmas. The inquest statuts that wheat be sold at ten shillings, malt at nine and eight shillings and thereby. The ale to be sold at tenpence ye gallon ye best, and eightpence ye cheapest, if it be priced be ye ale tasters, and he yt keeps not price sail pay eight shillings. Item, Wheat, malt, and meal that cums to ye mercat on Saturday, sail bycle twal hours, under payn of eight shillings. Item, Nayther fysh, flesh, butter, cheese, salt, nor uther guids that cums to mercat, sail be sold only at y e cors ; and na man to tak upon hand to house sic like guids in prejudice and skaithing of yc burgh, under payn of eight shillings ; and na man nor woman to take upon hand to reset guids till ye toun be served, under ye payn of eight shillings, and ye guids escheat. Item, JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 83 That na middens lie upon ye gait langer than eight days, under payn of eight shillings. Item, That ilk man keip neighbourhood in garden, principally fore front and headyard, under payn of eight shillings. [This probably meant that nothing offensive should accumulate in gardens.] Item, It is statuted that what woman flytes, fechts, sclanders ony guid man's wives or dochters within ye burgh, they sail be led to ye four yetts of ye toun by ye sergeants, having hanging on thair shoulder twa stanes in ane iron chain or in ane widdy. B. R. One of the ancient ranges of common belonging to Peebles was Caidmuir, a hill about a mile distant on the south-west. On the 1 5th of June 1472, as appears by the records, the inhabitants decided on assigning the right of common in soums or shares to burgesses and widows of burgesses, each to have a proportionate amount of grazing for cows an arrangement which, under modi- fications, subsisted until the disposal of Caidmuir in recent times. Registers of sasines of small properties in the burgh, resigned towards the support of altars and chapels, are of common occurrence in the records. The following is one of the more interesting notices of this kind : 1473, Feb. 12. William of Peblis, burgess of that ilk, with earth and stane has resigned, from him and his heirs for ever, his fore land, under and aboou, with half ane on ye south syde, lyand on ye Cunzie neist ye nor gait, and between ye lave of ye said William his land on ye south syde, for his saul, his wyfis saul, his bairnis sauls, and principally for all ye sauls yt ye said William has had ony guds wrangeously of ony means be buying or selling, or ony interchanging, and for all Christian sauls, [such earth and stone being now placed] in John Dickyson's hand, bailie in ye said burgh, and thair incontinentlie ye said bailie laid that earth and stane in ye hands of Maister Gilbert Rerik, procurator consrut and maid for Sanct Leonard his Hospital, and in ye name of puir folk, for thair supply and help, that is ordained to be in ye said hospital. B. R. 1475, Nov. 13. Was maid burgess Walter Fylder, and he sail give to ye supply of ye bryg wark ye winning of eight lade of stanes. [Several others who are made burgesses shortly afterwards, pledge themselves to supply loads of stones for the bridge.] B. R. 1476, Feb. 3. Compeared George of Elphynston at ye tolbooth of ye burgh, and stated to ye haill court, that Sanct James his altar in ye hie kirk had na means to uphald a chaplain. [It is ordered that the 84 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. mails or rents of a common on Dalitho shall, for the welfare of the burgh, be appropriated for ever to the support of a chaplain to serve at the altar mentioned.] B. R. 1478, May 1 8. John Richardson and Marion his spouse resigned eight shillings of annual rent to S. Andrew Younger, chaplain, and his successors singing at our lady's altar in ye parish kirk of Stobo, for ye saul of S. Andrew Bower and all Christian sauls. B. R. 1480, July 23. George of Elphynston, Herbert of Tweedie, and Patrick Dickyson, bailies, with consent of ye hail communitie, passit to ye mercat cors, and gave heritable sasine and possession of thirteen shillings and fourpence of annual to S. William Thomson, chaplain, and his successors that sail sing mass and mak service at ye rood altar in Sanct Andrew his kirk of Peblis, in ye rood loft, to be paid at ye twa terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas ; for whilk annual ye bailies and communitie bind thair common gud fra thair mills and multures, to pray for ye sauls of ye said William Thomson, his father his saul, his motheris saul, and for ye prosperitie and weelfare of ye said burgh. B. R. 1480, May 20. Was maid burgess William Bell, and his freedom given for ye bigging of ye butts between ye waters in ye common haugh, being ye first butts yt ever was maid in yt place. B. R. 1486, April 3. Was maid burgess Allan Ewart, and he sail lay a hundred lade of stanes to ye upholding of Tweed brig. B. R, The circumstance of any one undertaking to furnish a hundred loads of stones in requital for being constituted a burgess of Peebles, shews the value which was at one time attached to this species of dignity. The position of burgess or freeman, however, was not merely honorary. It conferred several important privileges, such as liberty to buy and sell on the principles of a strict corporation monopoly, the right to pasture horses and cows on the town's common lands, also the right to dig for fuel in several peat-mosses belonging to the community. As installa- tion in this enviable position was coveted and well paid for, so was deprivation of freedom a matter of serious concern, for it amounted to civic ruin, if not absolute exile and irreparable contumely. On being made burgess, there was given a ticket or diploma of membership, which, as we learn from sundry notices, was taken away and publicly torn on the loss of freedom a ceremony analogous to that of trailing in the dust the pennon of a knight who had the misfortune to suffer degradation by JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 85 command of the sovereign. From the entry in the town-books respecting the membership of Allan Ewart, it is seen that Tweed bridge was not completed after a lapse of twenty years, and we are unable to say when this great work was finished ; for the Burgh Records break off in 1486, and suffer a blank until 1650, all the volumes applicable to the long interval being unfortunately lost. According to the accounts of historians, James III., who is known to have visited Peebles, indiscreetly shunned the society of his nobles, and associated with men noted for their skill in architecture, music, and other elegant arts, but devoid of that high birth which should alone have recommended them to the notice of royalty. As the barons of that age were by no means remarkable for refinement, the charge against James, who paid for his indiscretion by his life, may perhaps admit of some quali- fication. Be this as it may, one of the artists, for whom the unfortunate king entertained a particular friendship, was Dr William Rogers, who has been described as an eminent musician, possessing a celebrity beyond the bounds of Scotland. Pleased with Dr Rogers's services, and heedless of offending a crowd of expectant barons, the king conferred upon him all and whole the lands of Traquair, which had lately fallen to the crown by the forfeiture of Robert Lord Boyd. 1 The gift forms the subject of a charter under the Great Seal, dated November 29, 1469, wherein it is stated that the lands were given to Rogers and his heirs for his faithful and commendable services. In the instrument of sasine which follows, the king describes Rogers as scutifero mio familiari literally, ' my domestic shield-bearer,' but by a free interpretation, my friend or attendant. Dr Rogers was proprietor of the lands of Traquair for upwards of nine years, and then he disposed of them in a way as remark- able as that by which he had obtained possession. On the iQth of September 1478, he executed a notarial instrument of sale of the lands and barony of Traquair, in favour of James Stewart, 1 Traquair Papers. 86 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIR.E. Earl of Buchan, uncle to the king, and Warden of the Middle Marches. The entire estate was disposed of at the price of 70 merks Scots (3, i$s. lod. sterling), and for ease of settlement, '40 merks are to be paid at Martinmas, next ensuing, and 30 merks eight days before Christmas, 1479.'* Neither the gift of the lands of Traquair to Rogers, nor his disposal of them in the manner just described, has ever before been adverted to. The usual account leaves out Rogers altogether, and makes it appear that the estate was directly gifted by James III. to his uncle, on the fall of the Boyds. What were the circumstances which moved the accomplished scutifero to dispose of, for a sum less in value than a five-pound note, an extensive barony now worth five thousand a year, will never be known in this world ; nor is there any chance 'of our learning why the noble, and, as it proved, ungrateful purchaser was so singularly short of cash that he could not pay down the price in ready money, and required more than a year's credit for a sum equal to about a guinea and a half. Allowing that the king may have induced Dr Rogers, by some fresh act of munificence, to sell Traquair on the easy terms now mentioned, the bargain was clearly a good one for the Earl of Buchan, and answered a particular purpose, which consisted in his bestowing the lands on his natural son, James Stewart, with whose descend- ants raised to the peerage as Lords Stewart of Traquair, 1628 the estate has remained till our own times. The fate of Dr Rogers, who so obligingly relinquished Traquair, belongs to general history, and is well known. In 1482, while James III. was on an expedition southwards with a large army to check the advance of an English force, a band of nobles, among whom was the Earl of Buchan, conspired to seize and put to death the king's favourite attendants. First, they secured Thomas Coch- rane, an architect, lately created Earl of Mar, and afterwards Dr Rogers, with William Hommil, and several others, and without legal form hurriedly hanged the whole on the bridge of Lauder 1 Traquair Papers. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 8/ one of the most savage and least excusable acts in an age which knew little of either justice or mercy. It is to the reign of James III. that may most properly be assigned the authorship of that literary curiosity, The Tales of the Thrie Pricstis of Peebles, a tract in verse, which has been reprinted from an old and scarce edition by Pinkerton. 1 By some, the date of the Tales has been imputed to the reign of James V., but, as noticed by Pinkerton, the work more probably belongs to a period anterior to 1491, for it bears an allusion to one of the kingdoms of Spain being still heathen ; and such was the case until the conquest of Granada by Ferdinand and Isabella in the above year. Of its author, nothing is known. The tales are of a jocose and moral character, touching on the vices of the age, and more particularly those failings of the clergy which fifty years later provoked the acute satire of Sir David Lindsay. The poem if we may so call it opens with an account of a tavern scene in Peebles, where three priests went to enjoy themselves over roast capons and other agreeable messes, along with a reasonable allowance of ale, to say nothing of much laughter and pleasant conversation, as befitted jolly friars enjoying a holiday. A short specimen of this now little-known production may perhaps be acceptable. It begins as follows : In Peblis town sum tyrae, as I heard tell, The formest day of Februare, befell Thrie priests went unto collatioun, Into ane privie place of the said toun ; Quhair that thay sat, richt soft and unfute sair ;'- Thay luifit 3 not na rangald 4 nor repair : 5 And, gif I sail the suith reckin and say, I traist it was upon Sanct Bryd's day ; Quhair that thay sat, full easily and soft ; With monie lowd lauchter upon loft. And, wit ye weil, thir thrie thay maid gude cheir ; To them thair was na dainteis than too deir : 1 Scottish Poems reprinted from Scarce Editions. Collected by John Pinkerton. London, 1792 ; 3 vols. 12 mo. * Not footsore. 3 Loved. 4 Wrangling. fi Crowd. 88 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. With thrie fed capons on a speit with creische, 1 With monie uthir sindrie dyvers meis. 2 And them to serve thay had nocht hot a boy ; Fra cumpanie thay keipit them sa coy, Thay lufit nocht with ladry, 3 nor with lown, 4 Nor with trumpours 5 to travel throw the town ; Both with themself quhat thay wald tel or crak ; Umquhyle 6 sadlie ; umquhyle jangle 7 and jak ; 8 Thus sat thir thrie besyde ane felloun 9 fyre, Quhil thair capons war roistit lim and lyre. 10 Befoir them was sone set a Roundel u bricht, And with ane clene claith, finelie dicht, 12 It was ouirset ; and on it breid was laid. The eldest than began the grace, and said, And blissit the breid with Benedicite, With Dominus Amen, sa mot 13 I the. Having commenced their collation, and 'drunken about a quarte/ one of the priests, Maister John, proposes to his two com- panions, Maister Archibald and Maister William, to tell stones : the idea is highly relished ; and John accordingly begins a tale about a king who calls lords, clergy, and burgesses before him to have three questions answered. The first question which gives concern to His Majesty is Quhy burges bairnis thryvis not to 'the thrid air ; or, in plain English, why the wealth of merchants does not reach the third heir or generation. A sagacious clerk undertakes to explain this remarkable circumstance, and the way he does so embodies perhaps the cleverest part of the poem, although his account of the matter is nothing new the young begin to live as their fathers leave off, instead of commencing humbly and working diligently in the manner by which fortune is alone reached. Hear Father John on the subject : This questioun declair ful weill I can : That thay begin not quhair thair fathers began ; 1 Grease. 2 Messes. 3 Rabble. 4 Worthless person. 6 Vagabonds. 6 Sometimes. 7 Prattle. 8 Spend time idly. 9 Fierce. 10 Soft and eatable flesh. 11 A round table. 12 Decked. 13 Word. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 89 Bot, with ane heily hart, baith cloft and derft, 1 Thay ay begin quhair that thair fathers left. Of this mater largelie to speik mair, Quhy that thay thryve not to the thrid air ; Becaus thair fathers purelie 2 can begin, With hap, 3 and halfpenny, and a lamb's skin ; And purelie ran fra toun to toun on feit ; And than richt oft wetshod, weirie, and weit Quhilk at the last, of mony smals, couth mak, 4 This bonie pedder 5 ane gude fute pak. 6 At ilkane 7 fair this chapman ay was fund ; Quhil 8 that his pak was wirth fourtie pund. To beir his pak, quhen that he feillit force, 9 He bocht ful sone ane mekil stalwart hors. And at last so worthelie up wan, He bocht ane cart to carie pot and pan ; Baith Flanders coffers, with counters and kist ; He wox a grand rich man or onie wist. And syne unto the town, to sel and by, He held a chop 10 to sel his chaffery." Than bocht he wol, 12 and wyselie couth it wey. 13 And efter that sone saylit he the sey ; u Than cum he hame a very potent man, And spousit syne a mychtie wyfe richt than. He sailit ouer the sey sa oft and oft, Quhil at the last ane semelie ship he coft, 15 And waxe so ful of worldis welth and win, 16 His hands he wish 17 in ane silver basin. The prosperous merchant at length dies, and is succeeded by his son, but ' lichtlie cums will lichtlie ga ; ' he takes no trouble with his business, wears rings on his fingers, And wil not heir, for very shame and sin, That ever his father said ane sheip skin ; and so, by false shame, extravagance, and carelessness, he comes at last to ruin ; affording a good reason Quhy burges bairnis thryve not to the thrid air. 1 Madly and boldly. 2 Poorly. 8 Cover from the cold. * Make comfortable by small gatherings, 6 Pedler. 8 A pack carried on foot. 7 Every. 8 Until. 9 Lost strength. 10 Shop. n Merchandise. " Wool u Weiah. Sea. Bought " Delight. " Washed. CjO HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Passing over the second question, which refers to the degener- acy of men of might, we come to the third question concerning the clergy, who unaccountably are not able to work miraculous cures, such as were common in the early ages of the church. The explanation that follows is about as clever a sarcasm as any- thing said by Lindsay there is no longer any regard to purity of living, knowledge, or spiritual graces Sic wickedness this world is within, That symonie is countit now na sin. Of the remainder of the Three Tales, space does not allow us to say anything, and we can only regret that the genial literary qualities of the poem are lost to popular acceptance on account of its antiquated orthography. The peaceful reign of James IV. did much to tranquillise and improve the border counties. Peebles received a confirmatory charter from the king 1 in 1506, and increasing in size, its eccle- siastical institutions grew in dignity. About this period, we begin to observe that the provost and bailies of the town were usually proprietors of lands in the neighbourhood, and they continued to be so till comparatively recent times, a circumstance which coincides with the practice among the old county gentry of having houses in Peebles, where they resided during winter. Perhaps the plan of appointing lairds to offices of trust in the burgh was of some special value in an age when education had made little progress among the trading classes, but it was attended with the inconvenience of affording fresh causes of feud among rival families. In the Register of the Secret Seal, under date February 18, 1508-9, a passport is granted by James IV. to one of these high-class bailies in the following terms ' A protec- tion and respite to Patrick Gillies of Glenkirk, bailie of Peebles, who passes by the king's licence in his pilgrimage to Jerusalem and other parts, for him and his wife, bairns, and servants of household, and respites them to be unattached for ony manner of action, cause, or quarrel, criminal or civil, concerning the Sec Appendix. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 9! king's hieness, or ony other manner of person, for onything bygane, unto the day of the said Patrick his voyage taking, and aye and until he return and come hame again, and forty days thereafter, he being in life.' Considering the reasons which at that time caused persons to undertake pilgrimages to Jerusalem, as also the language of the passport, it may be supposed that the present was a journey for the sake of expiating a homicide, which pressed heavily on the bailie's conscience. A few years later, we have the record of another act of piety characteristic of the period. On the 7th of November 1510, Thomas Balcasky, burgess of Peebles, son and heir of the late Martin Balcasky, granted a charter of ' the lands of Scottislandis with pertinents in the town and territory of Innerleithen,' in favour of James Stenhouse, chaplain of the altar of St Martin in the parish church of Peebles in honour of Almighty God, the Blessed Mother, St Martin, bishop and confessor, and all saints, and for the health of the souls of James IV. and Margaret his queen, and the souls of Martin Balcasky and Christian Murdison, parents of the said Thomas ; also for the soul of the said Thomas, and the souls of his brothers and sisters. The charter is given with consent of Patrick Stenhouse, perpetual chaplain of the chapel of the Blessed Virgin at the west end of the High Street of Peebles, superior of the lands of Scottislandis. 1 Whether in this charter, the souls of James IV. and his queen are included as an ordinary act of loyalty or as a special mark of respect, does not appear. It is, at least, certain that James was a popular monarch, of which there could be no greater proof than the large number of his subjects who followed his standard to the fatal field of Flodden, 1513. Among these were many of different ranks from Peeblesshire, nearly all of whom were slain. History and private record preserve to us the names of several who fell on this occasion John, second Lord Hay of Yester, proprietor of Neidpath ; James Stewart, who had been installed in Traquair by his father the Earl of Buchan ; John Murray of Blackbarony ; 8 and Alexander Lauder of Blyth. 3 1 Traquair Papers. '-' 1 )ouglas's Peerage. 3 Skirling Papers. 92 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The disastrous defeat of the Scottish army at Flodden, by leaving the country in a great measure unprotected, gave a shock to the whole border district ; and following the general example, Peebles looked to the strengthening of its bastel-houses and its walls. We may likewise suppose that its castle was put in a posture of defence adequate to the means at command and the importance of the occasion. Some portions of the fortifications reared at this season of panic are still seen in good preservation on the eastern and least defensible side of the burgh ; though it must be allowed that the walls would have had a slender chance of preserving the town had the English thought fit to march against it. The adjoining cut (fig. 20) shews a portion of the town-wall as it still exists near the east port. Fig. 20. Town- wall of Peebles. Ensuing on the battle of Flodden, during the minority of James V., and when The Flowers of the Forest were a' wede away, we have accounts of disturbances, thefts, and slaughters, aggra- vated beyond precedent. Douglas, Earl of Angus, who married the widow of James IV., commanded on the eastern borders, and for a time retained the custody of the young king, greatly to the popular discontent. After his accession to power, James V., with the resolute spirit of a sportsman, hunted down the vermin- like freebooters of the border. Of this famous expedition against the Scotts, Elliots, Armstrongs, and other habitual disturbers JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 93 of the southern counties, the following account is given by Lindsay : The king ' maid ane convention at Edinburgh with all the lordis and barronis, to consult how he might best stanch the thieff and revis [reiving] within his realme, and to caus the commounes to lieve in peace and rest, quhilk lang tyme had beine perturbed befoir. To this effect, he gave charge to all carles, lordis, barronis, frieholders, and gentlemen, to compeir at Edinburgh with ane monethis victuall, to pas with the king to daunten the theivis of Tividaill and Annerdaill, with all uther pairtes of the realme, also the king desired all gentlemen that had doggis that war guid, to bring thame with thame to hunt in the saidis boundis, quhilk the most pairt of the noblemen of the Highlandis did: sic as the carles of Huntlie, Argyle, and Athole, who brought thair deir houndis with thame, and hunted with his majestic. Thair lordis, with many other lordis and gentlemen, to the number of tuelf thousand men, assemblet at Edinburgh, and thairfra went with the kingis grace to Meggetland, in the quhilk boundis war slaine at that tyme aughteine scoir of deir. After this hunting, the king hanged Johne Armstrong, laird of Kilnockie.' 1 In this brief narrative, no notice is taken of the execution of Piers Cockburn of Henderland, commemorated in the well-known ballad, the Lament of tfie Border Widow? but as that tragical incident is mentioned as follows by another historian, there seems no proper reason to doubt its occurrence : 1529. The 27 of July, this yeire, the king causes behead Cockburne of Henderland, and Adam Scot, the chief of Limers and broken men of the borders. 8 The general tradition is that Piers was hanged over his own gate, and not beheaded, but the mode of execution is of little consequence. The effect of James's energetic measures was a fresh interval 1 The Cronicla of Scotland, by Robert Lindsay of Pitscotie, vol. i. p. 341. * Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, voL iii. p. 80. * Historical Works of Sir Jama Balfour, voL L p. 260. 94 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of tranquillity, during which the country was allowed to assume its formerly prosperous aspect ; but all was undone by the war that broke out between James V. and his uncle, Henry VIII. , in 1 542, and which, at the end of that year, caused the death of the unfortunate Scottish monarch. The infant Mary now becomes queen, and the outrages committed by English invaders are on a stupendous scale. The most disastrous of these forays was that conducted by Lord Evers and Sir Brian Latoun, during 1544. A chronicler mentions that, on this occasion, there were burned or destroyed, within the Scottish border, as many as 192 towns, barns, churches, and bastel-houses, that 403 Scots were slain, and 816 taken prisoners, also that upwards of 1000 cattle and 12,000 sheep were carried off. Next year, Lord Evers and Latoun again crossed the border, on which occasion they were met by Archi- bald Douglas, Earl of Angus, who had lately returned from exile, and been placed at the head of a large army. Now (1545) was fought the celebrated battle of Ancrum Moor. Angus's army, as was then the usage in Scotland, was composed chiefly of the feudatories of the crown and their retainers, who formed a militia ready at call on emergencies. The right to summon the lieges to arms lay with the sovereign, who, through the Lords of the Privy Council, issued a proclamation or ordinance for the purpose. A notice of this fact leads to the commencement of our extracts from the Records of the Privy or Secret Council, and other authorities. 1546, May 3. The Lords of Council, for resistance of thevis and tratouris that daylie and nichtly mak revis, slauchters, murthers, and oppressions upon our Soveraine Ladyis lieges, statute and ordain that various noblemen and gentlemen, with their retainers, sail be posted in Galloway, Nithsdale, &c. Item, My Lord of Angus sail ly upon Tweed, and keep betwix Harystane and Peebles Est and Wast, and with him the Ouir Ward of Clydesdale and gentlemen of Tweeddale, and that letters be directed to all and sundrie personis to keep the above day. P. C. R. Until this time Peeblesshire has been pictured as suffering from ruthlessly conducted border incursions, against which its castles and bastel-houses did not always afford a sufficient JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 95 protection. To these public disasters are now to be added the feuds which, during a lengthened period, in defiance of law and common humanity, were continually breaking out among the gentry of the county. Few appear to have been exempted from complicity as actors or abettors in these inveterate quarrels. The Stewarts, Horsburghs, and Govans in the east ; the Hays in the more central parts of the shire ; the Burnetts, Naesmyths, Tweedies, Veitches, Geddeses, Crightons, and Porteouses in the west ; and the Hurrays, Hamiltons, and Douglases in the north, were all less or more belligerents over whom the govern- ment of the day was able to exercise but a feeble control. Among all who distinguished themselves by these family dissensions, no clan attained to such pre-eminence as the Fig. 21. Drummelzier Castle in ruins. Tweedies. This ancient sept had for its chief Tweedy of Drum- melzier, who through successive generations occupied a particu- larly strong feudal stronghold, which crowned a rocky peninsula on the south bank of the Tweed. Leaving an account of Drum- melzier Castle to be included in our topographical notices, it is enough here to say, that, as may still be observed from its 96 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. shattered remains, it was a bulky tower of four stories in height, provided from foundation to bartisan with small barred windows, each having a convenient shot-hole, whence a hackbut could promptly deliver its deadly contents on the approach of a sus- picious visitor. Here the chieftain of the clan held his court, and in league with the Tweedies of Dreva, Wrae, Stanhope, and Frude, and others who owed him allegiance, never scrupled to levy war and inflict vengeance on his unfortunate neighbours, the Veitches of Dawick and the Geddeses of Rachan, against whom the whole race of Tweedy seem to have entertained an unquenchable hatred. The Tweedies come first prominently into notice as disturbers of the peace in the above 'y ear > I S4^ from which time, as will be seen by our extracts, their deeds receive frequent attention from the Privy Council. June n. The quhilk day my Lord Governour and Lordis of Counsel ordain letters to be direct to relax James Tuedy of Drummelzier fra the process of the horns, 1 led upon him for non-compliance befor our Sove- rane Ladyis justice, to underly the laws for certaine crimes inputit to him, unto the third of July nixt and William Tuedy, son of the said James, hes promisit to cause his father to answer to the summonds raisit by the said Lord agains him befor the Lordis of Sessioun upon Mononday the 28 June instant ; and David Hamilton of Preston is become caution and suretie that the said James Tuedy sail hold firm all things that the said William hes promisit in his name in the premises. P. C. R. For several years during the minority of Mary, various expedi- tions were despatched to the border counties to allay disturb- ances and expel bodies of English invaders. There was a muster for this purpose at Peebles on the loth of July 1547, the host being to pass forward ' for asseiging and recovering the house of Langhup,' then in possession of the English ; and in connection with this affair we learn that the Earl of Huntly was to have the goods forfeited by the Earl of Caithness and other Caithness gentry for ' their byding at hame fra this host and raid ; ' 2 it thus appearing that the people of the very northern 1 A process of being denounced rebel by the blast of a horn. 1 Records of Privy Seal. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 97 extremity of the kingdom were expected to traverse the whole length of it, and appear in arms, when the public affairs required their assistance. Connected with this muster at Peebles are some entries in the Lord Treasurer's Books : June 13 [1547]. Movit furth of Edr to Peblis, and left thair ye tyme of my Lord Governour and Quenes passing to hunting, quhilk yairefter was had to the Langhope, ane Mozan and twa Falcones [artillery], and for 1 8 horses, 8/. 14^. Item, Feit twa horsis quha departit with pulder and bullattis efter the said artalzere, 12$. 1 2. Item, Letteris of proclamatioun to Renfrew and Irvene, charging all manner of men to meet my Lorde Governour in Peblis, to ryde upon the thevis, 225. It appears from other entries that for this expedition eight score of hired soldiers were engaged ; also 80 pioneers, furnished with mattocks, shovels, &c. ; likewise, a great number of gadmen to drive the artillery ; and all set out at the proper time, passing southwards by Selkirk and Jedburgh. This affair, it will be observed, was only two months before the battle of Pinkie. 1550, April 30. Dutho Stewart was this day tried before the Justi- ciary Court, accused as art and part in the slaughter of Thomas Forester, burgess of Peebles. He was convicted and beheaded. 1 1559, Dec. 13. There is a respite under the Privy Seal for 19 years to ' James Tuedy of Drummelzeour ; James Tuedy of Frude ; Patrick, Williame, and Johne, his brotheris ; and Thomas Tuedy, alias Lang Thome, for ye cruell slauchter of vmqle William Geddes, son and apperand air to Charles Geddes of Cuthilhall.' In August 1560, the Roman Catholic forms of worship were proscribed by law throughout the kingdom, and the Reformation effected. The whole of the ancient ecclesiastical institutions in and about Peebles were by this act swept away, and the nume- rous body of clergy connected with them dispersed. The abruptness of this spiritual revolution here, as elsewhere, affords matter for surprise ; nor, indeed, is it very intelligible. Such was the intensity of devotional feeling according to old forms, that, in 1543, the parish church of St Andrew was constituted a 1 Pitcairu's Criminal Trials. G 98 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. collegiate church by John Lord Hay of Yester and the munici- pal corporation of the burgh. It was endowed for a provost, ten prebends or officiating priests, and ten choristers. The altars to which the priests were respectively attached were : St Mary, the Holy Cross, St Michael the Arc-Angel, St Mary Major, St John Baptist, St Mary del Geddes, St Andrew, St James, St Lawrence, and St Christopher. But to this list of ten, usually given, there is to be added an altar dedicated to St Martin. Except that some of the old endowments fell to the share of the burgh, nothing of the ancient ecclesiastical fabric was left to the town but the bare walls of the church of St Andrew, the Cross Church, and the chapel of Our Lady. What gives a certain air of bur- lesque to the event is that, long after the Reformation, law-deeds are solemnly executed, transferring endowments for services at altars, just as if no change in the religious system had taken place ; while those who are to perform these sacred offices affect to call themselves chaplains. Thus, Thomas Pringle of Milkiston, who had become possessed of the chaplaincy of St Martin in the church of St Andrew, assigns it in 1576, with all its privileges, to his son David, who henceforth draws the emoluments of the office. This chaplaincy is finally lost sight of in the property of the Taits of Pirn. 1 Immediately after the Reformation, when the teinds and other revenues of the church were appropriated by the crown, nobility, gentry, and burghs, the Protestant clergy were so ill provided with the means of maintenance, that the ecclesiastical polity was reduced to an exceedingly meagre footing. In this emergency, the parochial establishment was sustained by a system of ministers, exhorters, and readers, according to circum- stances. Some parishes had a minister, who, besides preaching, administered the sacraments ; in other cases, the parishes had exhorters, only qualified to preach ; and in a third class of cases, there were persons who only read the Scriptures. This last inferior order of functionaries is perpetuated in what are now termed precentors. There exists in the General Register House 1 Traquair Papers. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 99 at Edinburgh a record of the ' Names of Ministers, Exhorters, and Reidars, with their Stipends,' in 1567, which has been printed by the Maitland Club. From this document, we copy the following list connected with Tweeddale, and from it will be obtained an exact view of the ecclesiastical condition of the county shortly after the Reformation. PEBLIS, . . John Dikesoun, exhorter, 40 merkis. . . Maister Thomas Cranstoun, minister, and to minister the sacr amends to the haill schyre, 200 merkis, Beltyn 1571. LYNTOUN, . . Adam Colquhoun, exhorter, 261. 13*. 4//. NEWLANDIS, . Thomas Patersoun, reidar, 2o/. 13*. 4^. ; translatit to Kirkurd, Beltyn 1570. LYNE, . . Patrick Gryntoun, reidar, i3/. 6s. 8 Walter Tuedye. exhorter, 261. i y. 40. DAWYK, . J ETTILSTOUN, Mr George Hay, minister and persoun, the thryd of this personage and Rathven, alsweill past as to cum, extending to 68/. i6s. %d. ; i chalder, i boll, &c., beir for Rathven ; 4 chalders, 9 bollis, &c., of meill for Ettilstoun Providing alwayes he insist dili- gentlie in the ministerie, and als caus his kirk, quhar he makis not continual residence, to be sufficientlie servet, and that he charge the kirk with na farther stipend. KIRKURDE, . Thomas Patersoun, reidar, 2o/., Beltyn 1570. HENDERLETHANE, Patrick Sanderson, exhorter, io/. ; with the thryd of the vicarage extending to 22/., Beltyn 1571- ST BRYDE'S KIRK, Alexander Tait, exhorter, 2o/., Beltyn 1571. 100 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The sums mentioned in the above tabular statement being in Scots money, it appears that, reckoned in modern currency, the ecclesiastical revenue for the entire county in 1567 amounted to no more than 44, i$s- $d-, exclusive of a quantity of meal, and in one instance a manse and glebe a sorrowful contrast to the munificent endowments for spiritual purposes which existed only seven years previously. Peeblesshire happens to be in a slight degree mixed up with the tragical histories of Darnley and Rizzio. Buchanan mentions that in order to enjoy uninterruptedly the society of Rizzio, Mary sent Darnley to Peebles, December 1565. Darnley, he says, ' in a very sharp winter was sent to Pebly, with a small retinue, far beneath the dignity of some private persons, for a prey rather than recreation. At the same time, there fell such a quantity of snow, that the place not being very plentiful, and besides being infested with thieves, he that was always bred up at court, and used to a liberal diet, was in great hazard of wanting necessaries, unless the Bishop of the Orcades had casually come hither ; for he, knowing the scarcity of the place, brought some wine and other provisions for his use.' 1 There is ignorance if not misrepresentation in this statement. As Peebles at this period was often a centre for military gatherings, and was occupied by county gentry as their winter residences, it cannot be supposed that Darnley should have experienced any serious inconvenience as regards the ordinary comforts of life. We may, however, allow Miss Strickland to repel the calumny: ' Soon after Christmas, Darnley, in sullen mood with his consort for withholding what she had no power to confer the crown-matrimonial of Scotland withdrew himself from her conjugal society, and went into Peeblesshire, with a few of his intimate associates, in quest of amusement more to his taste than the princely pleasures of Holyrood. Buchanan asserts that this was a compulsory absence on the part of Darnley, pretending that " he was sent there by the queen with a very small 1 Buchanan's History of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 307 ; translation published at Edin- burgh, 1752. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. IOI retinue to be out of the way," adding, " that as the snow soon after fell in great quantities" a contingency for which Mary seems to have been considered answerable " he would have been in want of the necessaries of life, if the Bishop of Orkney had not brought him some wine and other provisions." Any comment on the absurdity of such a tale is rendered needless by the evidence of a letter from the Earl of Lennox to his son, proving that Darnley, who certainly had a will of his own, had announced that it was his pleasure to proceed to Peebles, and spend some time there, several days before it was possible, on account of the bad weather, to undertake that short journey from Edinburgh ; and that the principal object of the expedition was a meeting between the father and son, probably unknown to the queen, who was not on friendly terms with Lennox just then. This letter bears too importantly on the question of the credi- bility of the charges brought against Mary Stuart to be omitted ; for without even mentioning her name, it exonerates her from one of Buchanan's twice-repeated calumnies, and thus, by the righteous law of evidence, nullifies every other deposition of a witness so malignant and untruthful : THE EARL OF LENNOX TO HIS SON KING HENRY. SIR I have received, by my servant Nisbet, your natural and kind letter, for the which I humbly thank your majesty ; and as to the contents thereof, I will not trouble you therein, but defer the same till I wait upon your majesty at Peebles, which shall be so soon as I may hear of the certainty of your going thither. And for that the extremity of the stormy weather causes me to doubt of your setting forward so soon on your journey, therefore I stay till I hear farther from your majesty, which I shall humbly beseech you I may, and I shall not fail to wait upon you accordingly. Thus committing your majesty to the government and blessing of Almighty God, who preserve you in health, long life, and happy reign. From Glasgow, this 26th day of December. Your Majesty's Humble Subject and Father, MATHEW LENNOX. I shall desire your majesty to pardon me in that this letter is not IO2 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. written with mine own hand ; for truly, at the writing hereof, a pain which I have in my shoulder and arm is the cause thereof. Endorsed "To THE KING'S MAJESTY.'" As regards David Rizzio, the conspiracy to murder this favourite attendant of the queen included certain lairds in Peeblesshire. Under date March 19, 1565, the Privy Council Record contains a long list of persons charged with being concerned in the slaughter, a few days previously (March 9), and in this roll of alleged assassins are seen the following names : ' William Twedy of Drummelzier, Adam Twedy of Dreva, Hector Douglas of Spitalhaugh, James Douglas there, and James Widderspuine of Brighouse.' It does not surprise us to find two of the Tweedies in the proscribed list, nor that through the lamentable weak- ness of the government, they and their confederates escaped the punishment due for this and innumerable other crimes. The Privy Council, as will be observed throughout, had a favourite method of dealing with the offences of the land- proprietors, who were let off on giving security for future good-behaviour a degree of lenity which seems to have had no other effect than to afford opportunities for committing fresh acts of outrage. About the time of Rizzio's murder, Adam Tweedie of Dreva perpetrated a crime scarcely less atrocious than actual homicide. Having, for some reason or other, taken cause of offence against a person named Robert Rammage, he forthwith assaulted him, and brutally cut off his ears. Rammage and his brother not being disposed to put up with this indignity, brought the case under the cognizance of the authorities, and Tweedie was placed at the bar of the Court of Justiciary on the 26th of January I565-66. 1 The charge against him in the dittay was ' the cutting off Robert Rammage's luggs, and dismembering him thairof.' The crime was not denied, but the panel pleaded ' the king and queen's remission, Nov. 30, 1565,' and he was accord- ingly absolved ; his kinsman, William Tweedie of Drummelzier, 1 Pitcairn's Criminal Trials, vol. i. p. 475. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. IO3 engaging to satisfy the Rammages, who, in all probability, never received any sort of redress. In August 1566, during a temporary reconcilement of Mary and Darnley, they visited Peeblesshire. ' On the I4th, the queen and her husband set out for Meggetland, to enjoy the diversion of hunting, which was not now what it had been in the happier days of James V. They were attended by the Earls of Huntly, Moray, and other nobles. On the i6th of August, they held a council at Rodonna, where they made an ordinance ; noticing the scarcity of deer, and ordaining that they should not be shot, under the pains of law. Being thus disappointed, they determined to return ; they were at Traquair on the igth, and came to Edinburgh on the 2Oth.' 1 1567, Oct. IO. 'There was ane proclamation to meet the Regent [Moray] at Peebles on the 8 of November next, for the repressing of the thieves in Annandale and Eskdale ; but my Lord Regent thinking they will get advertisement, he prevented the day, and came over the water secretly, and lodged in Dal- keith ; this upon the 19 day [October] ; and upon the morrow he departed towards Hawick. ' * Our next extract illustrates the narrow commercial policy of the period, but likewise shews that our ancestors in Peebles in the sixteenth century did not deny themselves the use of wine. 1571-72, Jan. 26. James Hoppringle, burges of Peebles, having obtenit licence to carry furth of Leith to Peebles twa tun of wine, John Murdo, tailzour, became caution and souretie that the same sail not be sent to Edinburgh under pane of payment of the same. P. C. R. From the following, we learn that in the course of their operations, the Tweedies did not disdain to act the part of free- booters when occasion offered. 1572, Sept. 13. To the Council, met at Stirling, Duncan Weir, in Staneburne, complains that William Twedy, on pretence of a gift of the escheat of the said Duncan, through his alleged conviction for producing false letters of poynding before the Lords of Council against the said 1 Life of Mary Queen of Scots, by George Chalmers, vol. i. p. 281. 8 Barrel's Diary. IO4 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. William the latter, with Roger his brother, two of his sons, John Grahame of Slipperfield, James Watson, and other eight persons, did, on the first of June last, take from the house of Staneburne twa pair of sheets, three shirts, collars, curches, and two Jedburgh stams ; ! and from the lands of Staneburne, seven cows and mare ; and also that the said William and John Twedy, tutour of Drummelzear, with others, at the instigation of William Twedy, on the twenty-sixth of August last, tooke from the said Duncan, out of Wester Kirkurdyard, twelve head of nolt, with a mare all which notwithstanding a reference by the Regent and Council to the Lords of Session, and a declaration by Duncan of his innocence of the crime of false production, were still, to his almost utter ruin, withheld from him by the said parties. William Twedy alleged that he had obtained the said gift of escheat, and had therefore done no wrong to the said Duncan. The Regent and Council referred the matter to the Lords of Session, ' to do justice thairin conforme to the lawes of this realme.' P. C. R. The disorderliness of the county gentry in these unsettled times may be said to have been imitated on a minor but not less rancorous scale by the burgesses of Peebles, who, among them- selves, scolded, quarrelled, and fought, used towards each other opprobrious epithets in open council, constantly disagreed about rights to common property, and, at times, out of malice or an inclination for plunder, committed crimes which brought them within the scrutiny of the higher courts. On the ist of July 1572, there occurred a mysterious and horrid murder in Peebles, the cause of which has never been cleared up. It was the assassination of John Dickison of Wink- ston, provost of the burgh, the attack upon him, according to local tradition, being in the eastern part of the High Street. Certain persons in the town were accused of the crime, and brought to trial before the Court of Justiciary on the iQth of July. The following are the names of the accused : James Tuedy, John Wightman, Martin Hay, and John Bullo, all of Peebles, and Thomas Johnston, son of Thomas Johnston of Craigieburn. The prosecutors were the relict, father, and son of 1 The citizens of Jedburgh were so distinguished for the use of arms, that the battle- axe, or species of partisan, which they commonly used, was called a Jeddart-staff, after the name of the burgh. Scott's Border Antiquities. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 1 05 the deceased, and two of their council were Lord Yester and the Laird of Blancrue. We give the names of the jurors on the assize, for they were nearly all of Peebles original spelling preserved ' Patrik Neutoun, burges of Peblis ; Martyne Wilsoun, thair ; John Mosman, thair ; Patrik Weche, thair ; John Horsbrugh, merchand, thair ; Thomas Patersoun, thair ; John Sydeserff of that Ilk ; Robert Scot in Peblis ; Edward Robesoun, thair ; Alexandre Wilsoun, thair ; Andro Cheisholme, thair ; George Horsbrugh, thair ; James Cokburne, thair ; Stevin Robesoun, thair ; Alexandre Donaldsoun in Leyth.' The jury unanimously acquitted all the persons charged. James Douglas, Earl of Morton, became regent in 1572, and at the same time extended his possessions in Peeblesshire, in the midst of which he began to build Drochill Castle, on a scale of surpassing magnificence. During his regency, the peace of the country was so little improved as to call for an active gathering of several sheriffdoms. 1574, July 16. The Regent and Privy Council ordain letters to be directed 'to charge all legis betwixt 16 and 60 yeiris, and uthers fencible personis within the boundis of the schirefdomes of Lanerk, Peblis, and Selkirk, that thai, weill bodin in feir of weir, with four dayis victuallis and provisiones, meit his Grace at Peblis, the 26 day of Julii instant, and to accompany his Grace, and attend upoun service, under the pane of tynsall of lyfe, landis, andgudis.' P. C. . 1574, Dec. 6. ' The quhilk day, Thomas Cant of Sanct Gillegrange 1 is become suretie for Adam Twedy of Dreva, that he sail compeir person- alie befoir my Lord Regentis Grace and Lordis of Secret Counsale the last day of Februare nix to cum, and underlie sic order as sail be appointit for the weill and quietness of the countrie, and also that he by himself, his kin, brether, servandis, and friendis cum of his awin hous, and all utheris that he may let, sal na wayis invade or persew Charles Geddes of Rachane, and James Geddes his father, brether, kin, and friendis, utherwayis than by order of law, under the pane of twa thousand pundis.' Adam Twedy binds and obliges himself ' to relieve the said Thomas Cant of the premisis. P. C. . 1 Sanct Gillegrange is the old name of the Grange, near Edinburgh ; being so called from having been the grange or farm-establishment belonging to the collegiate church of St Giles. 106 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The above surety by Thomas Cant must either have been insufficient or withdrawn, for under date December 7, 1574, William Lauder of Haltoun undertakes the same obligation concerning Tweedie and his relations. 1574-75, March n. William Baillie of Lamyington becomes surety for the above Charles and James Geddes, that they shall not, except in due course of law, give any annoyance to John Twedy, tutor of Drum- melzier, Patrick Twedy his uncle, Adam Twedy of Dreva, &c. P. C. R. 1576, June 24. This day, the Council issued an order to preserve the deer in Meggetland, Eskdalemuir, and other parts where the Scottish kings ' had wont to have their chief pastyme of hunting.' Officers at arms and sheriffs are 'to pass to the mercat croce of Dumfries, Jedburgh, Peebles, Selkirk, Hawick, and utheris places neidful, and thair, be open proclamation in our Soverane Lordes name and auctoritie, command and charge all and sindrie his Hegis, that nane of thame tak on hand to schute at the saidis deir with gunns, or to bring in ony maner of English- men to hunt quhatsumever part of the severall grounds of Scotland, without expres licence of our Soverane Lord, or wardane of the merche, had and obtenit to that effect, or yet to hunt thameselves at ony time fra Fastrenes Een till Midsumer, under the panis contenet in the actis of parliament and treatis of peace.' P. C. R. The year 1581 was signalised by the execution of the ex-regent Morton, who was condemned as having been actively concerned in the murder of Darnley. The abrupt termination of his career left Drochill in the unfinished state in which it is represented in next page. Its remains, which occupy the brow of a rising-ground between the Lyne and the Tarth, parish of New- lands, constitute the grandest of the ruined castles in the county. With all his avariciousness and cruelty, it by no means appears that Morton was worse than many others who escaped the vengeance of James VI. He devised his earldom and estates to his nephew the Earl of Angus ; and in the case of the failure of issue of that nobleman, then to William Douglas of Loch Leven ; but disregarding this will, the crown, as dealing with a forfeiture, conferred the earldom on John Lord Maxwell, grandson of the third Earl of Morton, who thus became fifth Earl of Morton. This dignity he held only about four years ; for a general act of indemnity being passed in 1585, he had JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 107 to surrender the earldom to the proper heir, Archibald Douglas, Earl of Angus, and in recompense was created Earl of Nithsdale. If John Lord Maxwell is to be judged by his unruly character, these favours from the crown were ill bestowed. He and his natural Fig. 22. Drochill Castle in rains. brother, Robert Maxwell, were for a time the torment of the south of Scotland, and, as will be immediately seen, the oppressions of Robert and his followers had to be withstood by a levy en masse which had Peebles for its rendezvous. Meanwhile, our attention is recalled to the Tweedies. 1584, Nov. ro. The charge given to John Creichton of Quarter, Mr John Twedy in Dreva, John Twedy in Stanhop, Hob. Twedy in Howgait, James Twedy of Drummelzeare, James Twedy of Frude, Adam Twedy in Dreva, James Twedy younger thair, John Twedy in Henderlethane, and Alexander Porteous of Glenkirk, to have comperit personalie before the kingis majestic and Lords of Secreit Counsale the foresaids persones comperand personalie, being accusit of certaine treasonable and capitall crymes, quhairof they allegit thay wer altogidder innocent. The Lords assign the second day of December nix to cum to the saids persones to underly the law, before the justice or his deputes in the Tolbuith of Edinburgh, and to that effect ordane to summond ane assize, and in the meantyme the saids are to enter thair persones in ward 108 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. within 24 hours, James Twedy of Drummelzeare, Andrew Twedy in Dreva, and Alexander Porteous of Glenkirk, within the burgh of Lin- lithgow; and Hob. Twedy in Howgait, and James Twedy of Frude, within the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, all upon thair own expenses. P. C. R. 1584, Nov. 1 6. William Cokburne, burgess of Edinburgh, becomes surety for James Twedy of Drummelzeare, and William Sinclair of Roslin for Adam Twedy of Dreva, and Alexander Porteous of Glenkirk that immediately on their release from prison in Linlithgow, they will remove to the Tolbooth of Edinburgh to abide their trial. P. C. R. From the next reference to this obscure case, we have a glimpse of its true meaning. It was a family feud of the Tweedies, as is evident from the decision that Tweedie of Frude was in danger of his life from the vindictive assaults of Tweedie of Drummelzier and one of his associates. Security is exacted for their good-behaviour. 1584-85, March 22. William Foullartoun of Arde becomes securitie for James Twedy of Drummelzeare, and Andro alias David Haswell in the kirkland of Drummelzeare, that James Twedy of Fmde, and his tennentis and servandis, sail be skaythlis in their bodies, gudes, and geir be the saids James Twedy and David Haswell in tyme cuming, uther- wayes nor be ordour of law, James Twedy under pane of 1000 merks, and Pavid Haswell under the pane of 300 merks half to the king, and half to the party grevit ; and David erle of Crawfurde oblist himself to relief the said William Foullartoune as above, and James Twedy of Drummelzeare to relief the said erle of the premises. P. C. R. 1585, April 20. Proclamation that for suppressing the oppressions and crimes committed on the borders, and especially by Robert Maxwell, natural brother of John, Earl of Morton, and others, the whole inhabitants of the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, constabularies of Haddington, Berwick, Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles, Lanark, Dumfries, Wigton, Ayr, Renfrew, Stirling, Linlithgow, stewardries of Kirkcudbright and Annandale, and bailleries of Kyle, Carrick, and Cunningham, from 16 to 60 years of age, with 20 days' provision, meet the king or his lieutenant at Peebles on 2 May next. P. C. R. Three days before this formidable meeting took place, the upper part of Clydesdale was disturbed by a fresh outrage, in which some Peeblesshire gentry were concerned. On the 3Oth of April, John Livingstone of Belstane, in the parish of Carluke, complained to the Council of an assault which had been made upon him on the 3d of the preceding February by sundry JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 1 09 persons, whose motive in so assailing him does riot appear. The affair is most characteristic indeed, a type of numberless other lawless proceedings of the time. John quietly leaves his house before sunrise, meaning no harm to any one, and expecting none to himself. He walks out, as he says, under God's peace and the king's, when suddenly he is beset by about forty people who had him at feud, ' all bodin in feir of weir ; ' namely, armed with jacks, steel bonnets, spears, lance-staffs, bows, hagbuts, pistolets, and other invasive weapons forbidden by the laws. At the head of them was William, Master of Yester a denounced rebel on account of his slaughter of the Laird of Westerhall's servant Alexander Jardine, younger of Applegarth ; his servants, Stephen Jardine, and Matthew Moffat in Woodend, James Borthwick of Colela, John Lauder of Hartpool, Michael Hunter of Polmood, John Hoppringle in Peebles, James Hoppringle of the same place, Wiliam Brenarde [Burnett ?] of the Barns, John Cockburn of Glen, and Colin Langton of Earlshaugh, were among the company, evidently all of them men of some figure and import- ance. Having come for the purpose of attacking Livingstone, they no sooner saw him than they set upon him, with discharge of their firearms, to deprive him of his life. He narrowly escaped, and ran back to his 'house, which they immediately environed in the most furious manner, firing in at the windows and through every other aperture, for a space of three hours. A ' bullon ' pierced his hat. As they departed, they met his wife and daughter, whom they abused shamefully. In short, it seems altogether to have been an affair of the most barbarous and violent kind. The offenders were all denounced rebels. 1 1585, April 30. The following are denounced rebels for not appearing to answer for illegal convocation of the lieges : Michael Hunter of Polmood, John Hoppringle in Peebles, James Hoppringle there, Mr Alexander Vache, William Vache, his son, and John English of Maner- heid. P. C. X. For several years about this period, the feuds in Peeblesshire were aggravated by the outrageous conduct of William, Master 1 Domes fie Annals of Scotland, vol. i. p. 156 ; and P. C. K. 110 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of Yester, son of William, Lord Hay, of Yester, in whom was united the offices of sheriff-principal of the county and provost of the burgh of Peebles. It was alleged, with some degree of reason, that a nobleman who exercised these functions should have at least so far shewn respect for the laws as to make his son. answerable for his crimes ; instead of which, as was said, he placed him in his house and strength of Neidpath, where, though a denounced rebel, he kept state with a numerous band of armed retainers, and did many illegal acts. Moved as much perhaps by a family grudge of old standing as by any great regard for the law, Sir John Stewart of Traquair, and his brother, James Stewart of Shillinglaw, made a complaint to the Privy Council, October 5, 1585, setting forth that, dwelling on lands on the south side of the Tweed, they were subject to the incursions of the thieves and broken men of the borders, against whom they could not effectually protect themselves and their neighbours, in consequence of ' being greatly hindered therein ' by William, Master of Yester. Besides this, the Master is accused of usurping the authority of both sheriff and provost, and taking upon him ' to proclame and hold wappinshawings at tymes nawayes appointit be his Hieness" direction, nor be ony lawis or custome of this realme, to banishe and gif up kyndnes to all personis in burgh or land quhair he pleases to tak up menis geir under pre- tens of release from wappinshawings, the said Maister haveand na power or auctoritie as a lauchful magistrat to command them and furder it is weill knawn to sindrie of the saids Lords of Secreit Counsale that the said Maister socht the life of the said James Stewart, and daylie shoris and bostis to slay him and all uthers of his kin and freindis quhom he may maister.' The complainers desire that Lord Yester and his son may be deprived of this unlawfully usurped power, and prevented from troubling James Stewart and others. To sustain these complaints, Sir John Stewart and his brother ' compeared by James Lawsoun of Carne- mure, thair procurator, and William, Maister of Yester, com- peared for himself and his father, who he stated to be " visite with seikness."' The Council remitted the case to the Lords of JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. Ill Session, and in ' the meantyme discharges the said Lord and Maister of Yester, thair deputis and officiaris of all calling, persewing, unlawing, poinding, troubling, or onwayis proceeding agains the saidis Sir John Stewart and James Stewart, thair brether, bairns, tennants, servants, and dependaries, unto the aucht day of Januar nix to cum.' P. C. R. Whatever may have been the general misconduct of the Master of Yester, who was nicknamed Wood-sword, the accusa- tion of having tolerated and countenanced border thieves is not quite consistent with the fact, that he secured the royal indulgence by his promptitude in protecting the lieges from their incursions ; and if we are to believe Father Hay, it was the Stewarts who were in this respect really in fault. ' The borders,' says this authority, ' being much infested with broken men and thieving, this lord [Master of Yester], who always rode accompanied with twenty-four horsemen, and as many footmen, armed, did take and hanged a great [number] of them. He was at feud with the House of Traquair for seconding the thieves, in pursuit of whom he received a wound in the face. King James VI. being desirous to have this feud taken away, as all others of the country, and he refusing, was committed to the Castle of Edin- burgh [June 7, 1587], out of which he made his escape, and immediately made one new inroad against the thieves, of whom he killed a great many, in a place called from thence the Bloody Haugh, near Riskinhope, in Rodonna ; whereupon the king was pleased to make a hunting journey, and came to the house of Neidpath, whither the king called Traquair, with his two sons, who made to Lord Yester acknowledgment for the wrong they had done him, and then peace was made by the king. This was witnessed by one William Geddes, who was my lord's butler, and lived till the year 1632." From 1587 till 1591, several incidents illustrative of the condi- tion of things in Peeblesshire come under the notice of the Privy Council. 1 Genealogy of the Hays of Tweeddale, by Father R. A. Hay. 112 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 1588-89, Jan. 23. James Sandilands, tailor burgess of Edinburgh, becomes suretie for John Govan, younger of Cardrona, that the said John sail mak payment to Sir James Maxwell of Calderwoode, knycht, collector of the baronis tax within the sherifFdom of Lanark, of sums of money as he sail be fund justlie indebted. P. C. R. 1589, Sept. 15. Charles Geddes of Rachan becomes suretie for Mr Thomas Nasmyth, portioner of Posso, that William Twedy, eldest lawful sone to John Twedy, sometyme tutor of Drummelzeare, and the said John his lawful guidar, sal be harmles and skaithles in thair bodyes, landis, takkis [leases], possessionis, gudes, and geir, under the paine of 500 pundis, the ane half to the kingis majestic, the other half to the pairty greivit. P. C. R. 1589, Sept. 24. A similar security is given by 'John Tuedy, mercheant burges of Edinburgh,' and others, to the effect that ' Mr Thomas Nasmyth, fiar of Posso, his tennantis and servands, sal be harmles ' from James Tuedy of Drummelzeare, ' under paine of 4000 merkis.' P. C. R. 1589. John, Lord Fleming, becomes suretie for John Tuedy, bruther germane to James Tuedy of Drummelzeare, that Michael Nasmyth of Posso, Mr Thomas Nasmyth, his sonne and appeirand air, and John Nasmyth, his bruther, thair wyffis, bairns, and servands, sal be harmless, under the paine of 5000 merkis. And also that the said John, being releivit furth of his present warde within the tolbuith of Edinburgh, sal keip warde thairafter within burgh, until he satisfie the said Maister Thomas, for the skaith susteinit be him be the douncasting of his house of Stirkfield. P. C. R. 1589, Oct. 4. Similar caution to the above given by James Hamilton of Libbertoun for James Tuedy of Drummelzeare, that Michael Nasmyth of Posso, his son, &c., shall be harmless under the penalty of 5000 merks. P. C. R. 1590, June 4. William Cokburne, burges of Edinburgh, becomes 'suretie for John Tuedy of Drummelzeare, that Maister Thomas Nasmyth, fiar of Posso, sal be harmless, under the paine of 1000 pundis/ P. C. R. These were small matters in comparison with an affair which took place in the neighbourhood of Peebles, the Tweedies, as usual, being the prime movers. On the i6th of June 1590, Patrick Veitch of Dawick went on business to Peebles, and while there, ' was perceived by James Tuedy of Drummelzier ; John Tuedy, his brother; Adam Tuedy of Dreva; John Tuedy, tutor of Drum- melzier ; Charles Tuedy, the bastard ; William Tuedy of the JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 113 Wrae, John Creichton of Quarter, Andro Creichton in Cardon, and Thomas Porteous of Glenkirk,' all of whom entertained a deadly hatred of Veitch, and thought that a fair opportunity had occurred for taking his life. Procuring knowledge of the time he was to set off homeward, the band of homicides divided themselves into two companies, one of which preceded him unobserved, and concealed itself at a particular place on the road behind Neidpath. Veitch quitted the town unsuspicious of his danger, followed at a distance by the other party ; and at a given signal the whole closed upon the unfortunate man, ' and with swordis and pistolettes cruellie and unmercifullie slew him, upon set purpose, auld feid, and forethought, without respect either to the late proclamation as to keeping good order, according to his majestie's godlie and gude intention anent the reformation of abuses and disorders, nor yet with having regard to the present time of the strangers being with his majestic. In respect whereof,' proceeds the complaint to the Privy Council, ' not only is his majestic touchet in honour, his authentic highly contemned, and occasion given to uther wicked personis to do the like this odious slauchter being the first that has been committit since his majestie's hame-coming, sail not remane unpuniset.' The accused parties not appearing to answer the charge, they were denounced rebels, and by some peculiarly active means were shortly afterwards placed in prison in Edinburgh. The case was referred to the aire or circuit court at Peebles, but meanwhile it became complicated by reprisals. On the 2Oth of June, two relations of the slain youth John Veitch, younger of North Synton, and Andrew Veitch, brother of the Laird of Courhope set upon John Tweedie, tutor of Drummelzier, and burgess of Edinburgh, as he walked the streets of the capital, and killed him. Thus were the alleged murderers punished through a near relative, probably uncle of the principal party. For some time, there is a tiresome repetition of entries in the Privy Council Records concerning sureties given on both sides under heavy penalties ; nothing, of course, being done to punish 114 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the murderers on either side. Perhaps the excessive laxity of justice at this crisis is due to the fact of James VI. having just arrived with his newly-married queen from Denmark ; and although scandalised by the outrages having taken place while distinguished strangers were in the country, the king was disposed to let the matter rest, and among other acts of con- ciliation, granted an order for liberation of the Veitches. This indulgence met with no grateful return ; the feud of the Tweedies and Veitches was of too long standing to be relin- quished. 1 While the Tweedies and Veitches, with their respective allies, were pursuing schemes of vengeance, a new grievance is heard of in the county. This was the murder of John Hamilton of Coitquoitt, a place afterwards known as Coldcoat, and now named Macbie Hill. At this period, Romanno was in possession of the Hurrays, who had obtained the estate by intermarriage with an heiress, Janet Romanno of that Ilk. In 1591, there were three ladies connected with Romanno, respectively the wives of father, son, and grandson. For their accommodation, there were two dwellings, the old fortalice, and what was called the Templehouse, a name probably derived from certain lands which had at one time belonged to the Knights Templars. These ladies came to trouble on account of their husbands being 1 Scott, in his historical introduction to the Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, refers to the long-existing feuds of the Tweedies and Veitches, which he illustrates with the following traditionary anecdote : ' Veitch of Dawyk, a man of great strength and bravery, who flourished in the 1 6th century, was upon bad terms with a neighbouring proprietor, Tweedie of Drummelziar. By some accident, a flock of Dawyk's sheep had strayed over into Drummelziar's grounds, at a time when Dickie of the Dot, a Liddisdale outlaw, was making his rounds in Tweeddale. Seeing this flock of sheep, he drove them off without ceremony. Next morning, Veitch perceiving his loss, summoned his servants and retainers, laid a blood-hound upon the traces of the robber, by whom they were guided for many miles, till, on the banks of the Liddel, he staid upon a very large haystack. The pursuers were a good deal surprised at the obstinate pause of the blood-hound, till Dawyk pulled down some of the hay, and discovered a large excavation, containing the robbers and their spoil. He instantly flew upon Dickie, and was about to poniard him, when the marauder protested that he would never have touched a cloot [hoof] of them, had he not taken them for Drummelziar's property. This dexterous appeal to Veitch's passions saved the life of the freebooter.' VoL L p. Ixvi. note. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 115 charged with the slaughter of their neighbour, Hamilton ; and as the alleged murderers had absconded, and taken refuge with friends and abettors, the ladies were put to some inconvenience. So much may be said in explanation of a lengthened entry in the Privy Council Record, December 10, 1591, which we shall attempt to simplify. Helen Henderson, spouse of William Murray, elder, of Romanno ; Margaret Tweedie, spouse to John Murray, younger, of Romanno; and Agnes Nisbitt, spouse to William Murray, youngest of Romanno, complain that being denounced as art and part in the slaughter of the late John Hamilton of Coitquoitt, his son and relict had misrepresented to the king that the tower of Romanno was ' detenit and garneist with men of weir, to the contempt of His Majesty,' who had placed it in possession of four persons, to whom was to be paid a monthly allowance of twenty merks. The three ladies remonstrate against this oppressive arrangement, ' of which, gif they had knawen, they wad have compeirit, and stayed the granting of the same.' They desire the order to be suspended, for the house of Romanno, they say, ' was never keipit aganis his Hieness, but only aganis rebels, as God knawis tyme will try, and thairfore needit na sic keiparis, it being but ane auld ruinous tour, not meit for na man to keip or hassard his lyffe into ;' and besides, the said ladies are conjunctly infeft in fee and liferent in the haill lands of Romanno, ' quhilk is but a puir ten-pund land, in effect barren, and subject to the incursionis and stouthis of the broken men and thevis of baith the bordouris, and the saids complenaris and thair families, have na maner of thing besides whareupon to leive ; it can naither stand with the law of God nor man to punish the inocent, and to tak fra thame thair landis and lyves, although thair husbandis be now deprivit of his Hienes' favour ; and gif ony doubt or scruple may be made anent the keiping of the said hous, thay are content and presentlie offeris (the keiparis being removit furth thairof), with all diligence thairefter, to close up, on thair expensis, the yetts and windois of the hous with stane and lyme, and to be answerable that Il6 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. thair husbandis nor na utheris sail entir thairin without his Majestie's licence.' P. C. R. This representation failed. Helen Henderson, for herself and the other complainers, also Bessie Baillie, widow, and Jonas, William, and James, sons of the deceased John Hamilton, being present, the king and council ordered the letters raised against the ladies of Romanno to be put to execution. The real pinch in the case, as will be observed, was the obligation to maintain four government officials, at a cost of twenty merks (l, 2s. 6d. sterling) monthly; and to get rid of these unwelcome visitors, the three ladies may be allowed to have made out a painful case of poverty. Ultimately, March 29, 1592, they were exempted from further trouble, on giving security that the parties denounced as rebels should not find refuge within the house of Romanno ; and we can fancy the satisfaction of the three sorely-tried ladies on seeing the four officials quit the fortalice and disappear down the old avenue. There were some subsequent proceedings in connection with this affair, such as the entering into securities that there would be no mutual molestation apart from forms of law ; but so feeble was justice, and so weak the royal authority, that the scandal of Hamilton's murder blew over, and the Hurrays resumed their residence at Romanno, as if nothing had happened. We can hardly be surprised at this immunity to brawling and homicidal lairds, when we remember that in the beginning of this year the 'Bonny Earl of Moray' was slain at Donibristle, and that the king, notwithstanding urgent remonstrances from the earl's mother, refrained from prosecuting the murderers. At the time that the Murrays of Romanno were in the midst of their troubles about the murder of a neighbouring laird, the Burnetts of Barns had laid themselves open to complaint on account of certain feuds with adjoining proprietors. Barns is an extensive estate on the south bank of the Tweed, three miles west of Peebles, and its proprietor at this time was William Burnett, a man of gigantic stature and strength, who, for his sagacity in conducting expeditions in the dark, was generally JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 117 nicknamed the ' Howlet,' or Owl. Living with his family in a tall feudal tower, of which, in its now decayed state, covered with ivy, and with a grated door, we present a sketch, the Howlet s Fig. 23. Old Tower of Barns. had rendered himself amenable to law. before the Privy Council as follows : The case is brought 1591. John Murray of Blackbarony becomes ' suretie for William Burnett of Bams, that he sail compeir personalie befoir the kingis Majestic and Lords of Secret Counsole at Halyrudhouse, or whair it sail happen to be for the time, the 29 day of December instant, and answer to sic things as sail be inquirit of him, touching sic deedlie feid as he hes interest in ; and that he sail underlie sic order as his Hienes and the said Lords sail demene to him thereanent, under the pane of ane thousand merks.' P. C. R. One of the Peeblesshire lairds is found to have been implicated in the treasonous and outrageous conduct of Francis, Earl of Bothwell. Frustrated in his audacious attempt to seize the royal person at Holyrood House in December 1591, Bothwell, with a band of three hundred men, made a renewed but equally Il8 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. abortive effort for the same purpose at the palace of Falkland in June 1592. Retiring among his vassals in Liddesdale, it became necessary to assemble the lieges to quell this extra- ordinary disturber of the public peace, and several proclamations to that effect were issued by the Privy Council. As usual, in the case of border disturbances, Peebles was made a place of meeting, and here James VI. presented himself to organise the forces raised on the occasion. Seemingly roused for the moment from his imbecility, the king, under date July 13, issued an edict to destroy three dangerous strongholds that of Tinnies, in Peebles- shire, and those of Harden and Dryhope in Selkirkshire. In no part of Scotland was there any feudal keep so like a robbers' castle on the Rhine as that of Tinnies, which, occupying the summit of a lofty knoll, towered over the plain of Drummelzier, and was, in all respects, a fitting residence for one who set the law at defiance. At this period, it was occupied by James Stewart, of whom we know nothing from the records, further than he was connected with the designs of Bothwell, and exposed himself to the severest penalties. The royal warrant for the demolition of Tinnies is too remarkable not to be given entire. 'At Peebles, i3th July 1592. The Kingis Majestic, with advice of the Lordis of his. Secret Councale, Givis and Grantis full power and commission, express bidding and charge, be thir presents to his welbe- lovitt William Stewart of Traquair, to dimolois, and cause be dimoloist and cussen down to the ground, the place and houss of Tynnies, quhilkis perteint to James Stewart, sumtyme of Tynnies ; as alsua the like power and commission, express bidding and charge to Walter Scott of Gouldie Landis, and Mr Jideon Murray, conjunctlie and severallie, to demolois, and cause be demoloist and cussen down to the ground, the places, housses, and fortalices of Harden and Dryhoip, pertaining to Walter Scott of Harden, quha with the said James Stewart was art and part of the lait tressonabill fact perpetrat against his hieness awne person at Falkland. And that the forsaid persons caus the premisses be putt in executioun with all convenient expeditioun, as they will answer to his hieness upoun their obedience.' P. C. R. Strangely enough, the Tweedies were either not concerned in JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 1 19 Bothwell's treason, or had the address, by aiding the king in his emergency, to escape the visitation which afflicted their near neighbour at Tinnies. In 1592, they actually appear in the new quality of complainers, instead of being complained against. They had suffered losses through the predatory habits of one of the clans Scott on the borders, and the circumstance makes us aware of the wide sweep of country exposed to such depre- dations. In the tone and character of injured innocents, the Tweedies state to the Privy Council that the Scotts, though bound to keep the peace, came on the I5th of December last to the lands of Drummelzier and Dreva, and took from them 4000 sheep, 200 oxen and cows, and 40 horses and mares, also took away all the movable goods in the houses of tenants to the value of ^"2000. The Council ordered Sir John Edmonston of that Ilk, cautioner for the Scotts, to bring them forward to answer these grave charges. At the close of 1592, the Tweedies revert to their true charac- ter. We learn from an entry in the Record, that they had perpetrated quite as deliberate a murder as that committed by them less than two years previously near the castle of Neidpath. Their victim on this occasion was one of the Geddeses, with whom they were at feud, and the scene of the atrocity was at a blacksmith's door in the Cowgate of Edinburgh. As usual, the case comes before the Council by a complaint. Mary Veitch, relict, Charles Geddes of Rachan, brother, with the bairns, remaining brother, and friends of the late James Geddes of Glenhegdon, state that ' it is not unknawne how mony slauchters have been committit upon them by James Tuedy of Drummel- zeair and his friends,' notwithstanding bonds, promises, and assurances to the contrary ; and now he has committed the bar- barous murder of the said James Geddes within the burgh of Edinburgh. For ' the space of aucht days ' together, Tweedy and his companions publicly haunted the streets and closes waiting for an opportunity to slay the Laird of Glenhegdon ; and having, by means of spies, watched the said laird near his lodgings, and found that on the 29th of December last he was ' in the Cowgait 120 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. at David Lindsay's buith shoeing his horse, being altogether careless of his awne suretie, Drummelzier dividit his hail friendis and servandis in twa cumpanyis, and directit John and Robert Tuedyis, his brether germaine, Patrick Porteous of Hawkshaw, John Creichtoun of Quarter, Charles Tuedy, household servand to the said James, and Hob Jardin, to go to Conis Close, being direct opposite to Lindsayis buith, and he himself, accumpanyed with Mr John and James Tuedyis, sones to the gudeman of Dreva, past to the Kirk Wynd, being a little bewest the said buith, to await, that the said James might not escape ; and baith the cumpanyis being convenit at the fute of the said cloises, rinding the said James standing at David Lindsayis buith dor with his bak to thame, they rucheit oute of the said cloises, and shamefullie, cruellie, and unhon- nestlie, with schottis of pistollettis murdereit and slew him behind his bak.' The parties accused not compearing are denounced and escheat. Tweedie was afterwards secured, but with the ordinary result. In June 1593, he was a prisoner in Edinburgh Castle, and Sir Michael Balfour of Burley became security that, on being liberated, he would within 48 hours enter himself in ward in Fife, there to remain during His Majesty's pleasure. P. C. R. 1593, Sep. u. Proclamation at Stirling to meet the king at Peebles on i November, for pursuit and punishment of rebels. P. C. R. 1593-94, Feb. 14. The assassination of the Laird of Glenhegdon is again before the Privy Council. Charles Geddes of Rachan for himself, and as procurator for Margaret Veitch, relict of James Geddes of Glen- hegdon, produces a copy of summons at the instance of John Creich- toun of Quarter, and Patrick Porteous of Hawkshaw, charging him and the said Margaret Veitch to appear on 7 Feb., and shew letters of horning they had raised against the said John Creichtoun and Patrick Porteous, for not compearing to answer touching the murder of the said James Geddes and to hear said letters suspended. Neither Crichtoun nor Porteous appearing, the Lords denounce them, and order them to be put to the horn ; also, that James Tweedy of Drummelzier, cautioner for their appearance, be prosecuted for penalties. P. C. . In 1595, there occurred a regular and public combat on Edston JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 121 Haugh, a field on the north bank of the Tweed, about a mile from Neidpath. The cause of this passage-of-arms was a sup- posedly insulting speech, addressed by John Brown of Hartree to George Hepburn, a page of James Lord Yester. Of this remarkable duel, for which due authority had been obtained, the following account is given in the Domestic Annals of Scotland^ quoting from an historical manuscript concerning the Hays of Tweeddale. ' The two combatants [Brown and Hepburn] were to fight in their doublets, mounted with spears and swords. Some of the greatest men of the country took part in the affair, and honoured it with their presence. The Laird of Buccleugh appeared as judge for Brown ; Hepburn had, on his part, the Laird of Cessford. The Lords Yester and Newbottle were amongst those officiating. When all was ready, the two com- batants rode full tilt against each other with their spears, when Brown missed Hepburn, and was thrown from his horse with his adversary's weapon through his body. Having grazed his thigh in the charge, Hepburn did not immediately follow up his advantage, but suffered Brown to lie unharmed on the ground. " Fy !" cried one of the judges ; " alight, and take amends of thy enemy ! " He then advanced on foot with his sword in his hand to Brown, and commanded him to confess the truth. "Stay," cried Brown, " till I draw the broken spear out of my body." This being done, Brown suddenly drew his sword, and struck at Hepburn, who for some time was content to ward off his strokes, but at last dealt him a backward wipe across the face, when the wretched man, blinded with blood, fell to the ground. The judges then interfered to prevent him being further punished by Hepburn ; but he resolutely refused to make any confession.' 1599, Sept. 4. William Horsburgh of Edderston having raised letters against the provost and bailies of Peebles on the score of some indem- nity, but having failed to appear before the Privy Council to support his case, ' James Neving, as procuratour for the saidis provost and bailies, protestit in respect' of Horsburgh 's non-appearance, and craved that there might be no further proceedings without a new summons. Protest admitted./*. C. R. 1 Vol. L p. 265. 122 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 1599, Sep. 8. In a proclamation to the inhabitants to assist the warden of the West March, William, Earl of Angus, those of his ' wardanrie,' and of Kyle, Carrick, the Upper Ward of Clydesdale, and the sheriffdom of Peebles, are ordered to meet at Dumfries on 22 Sep. P. C. jR. Unsupported by police or standing army, James VI., as is evident from royal proclamations, had to depend on the services of the gentry and their retainers for maintaining his authority ; and nothing conveys so impressive an idea of the abjectness of the sovereign at this period, as the circumstance of his inviting the Tweedies to assist him with their counsel. 1600, July 28. Among parties summoned to meet the king and his Privy Council at Falkland on 1 1 August, to give ' thair advice anent repressing the turbulent borderers,' are James Tweedy of Drummelzier, Tweedy of Dreva, and William Veitch of Dawick ; of these, James Tweedy is ordered to place himself, with his retainers, in the castle of Drummelzier, and William Veitch within the castle of Dawick. P. C. J?. Notice has been taken of the taxation of the county according to the Old Extent. In 1556, a new tax-roll was made up by properly appointed commissioners, and this remained long in use. From what follows, it will be seen that a dispute occurred concerning taxation, which was settled by an appeal to the roll of 1556. The case is noticed by Thomson in his Paper on the Old Extent, already referred to, and was as follows : 1602, Jan. 12. Sir John Murray of Eddleston complains that James Lord Hay of Yester, principal sheriff of Peeblesshire, had, through his depute, Horsburgh of that Ilk, imposed on his lands an undue propor- tion of the 100,000 merks for which the county was assessed. Sir John proceeds to say that he had been charged ' 48 pundis of money of the realme for his pairt of the said taxatioun of his landis of Blakbarrony with the annexis thairof, videlicet, Kingisland, and for his pairt of the landis of Curhoip, and his landis of Deane and Eister Quhytlaw ' all of which he alleges should be taxed to .the extent of only 32 pundis, as may appeir be ane roll maid 27 Januar 1556, be certaine commissioneris appointit be his Majestie's umquhile dearest mother, quene of the realme ; Sir John's taxation having been restricted to that sum on account of the barrenness of the lands ' and of evill nichtbouris, being JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 123 subject to the incursionis of Liddisdaill, Ewisdaill, and Annandaill. Nevertheless, he, Sir John, had lodged the amount of the whole demand with the sheriff-depute, and now prays that the excess be returned to him. The Lords decide that the former tax-roll of 1556 is the true one, and order the difference between 32 and 48 punds to be returned to Sir John Murray. P. C. R. It is observed from this appeal, which we have greatly abridged, that, as formerly stated, border reivers made incursions as far as Eddleston, Courhope, and the summit of the Ringside Edge. The next quotation from the Records reveals the not less strange fact that, when complained against, the reivers could procure letters, or legal authority, to suspend prosecution. On the 2d of May 1602, Sir William Stewart of Traquair complained that ' James Scott of Quhythop having committit an open reiff upoun him,' the said John had by misrepresentation procured letters suspending prosecution for the offence. Sir William being now ready to go into the case, and the defender not appearing, is denounced rebel. We learn by a subsequent entry what was the nature of the stouthreif. Scott, taking advantage of Sir William Stewart's absence, had gone upon the lands of Blackhouse, and ' lifted ' fifty ewes at a single sweep. Scott seems to have been a slippery person. On the I7th of June, he and others are denounced rebels for not paying to the chamberlain part of the dues of Ettrick Forest. 1602, Oct. 8. The king having gone to Dumfries to endeavour, by judicial proceedings, to punish thieves and secure tranquillity in the western marches, this day issues a proclamation to the following effect : Forasmuch as His Majesty has appointed justice-courts to be held within the burghs of Peebles and Jedburgh on the i$th and 26th day of October, for trying and punishing the many enormities and insolences which have been committed during several years byegone as His Majesty, accompanied by a number of his council, intends to be present at the said courts, it is necessary ' that His Majestic be weel and substan- tiallie accompaniet with a force of his guid subjectis,' therefore ordains letters to be direct, charging all and sundry His Majesty's lieges and subjects between saxty and sixteen years, and other fencible persons, as well dwelling in burgh or on land, regality and royalty, within the sheriffdoms of Peebles, Selkirk, and Roxburgh, that they ' ilk ane of 124 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. thame, weel bodin in feir of weir,' meet His Majesty as follows The inhabitants of Selkirk and Peebles shires at Peebles, Oct. 15, and the inhabitants of Roxburghshire at Jedburgh, Oct. 25 ; and they are to be provided to attend on His Majesty for the space of fifteen days, ' under paine of tinsel of life, landis, and guids.' On this occasion, the king visited Peebles and Jedburgh, and was able to execute justice. Tweedie of Drummelzier, who has hitherto been heard of chiefly in connection with slaughters and other heinous offences, is now to be introduced as a forcible uplifter of the rents of others for his own behoof. At this period lived Dame Jean Herris, usually called Lady Skirling, relict of Sir John Cockburn of Skirling, knight. As widow of the proprietor, she possessed certain lands in Haddingtonshire and at Skirling, with legal right to draw their rents ; notwithstanding such claims, James Tweedie of Drummelzier, who had married the relict of William Cockburn of Skirling, set about forcing Lady Skirling's tenants, by ' bang- strie and oppressioun, to cause the tennantis to pay thair maillis, and thairby frustrates the said complainer of the yeirly maillis and dewties, being the best pairt of her rent and living, whare- upon she now, in her decrepit and decaying tyme, ought to be intertenyit.' Besides these oppressions on her tenants, Lady Skirling complains that, ' about the feist of Martymas last,' Tweedie came upon the lands of the Nether Mains of Skirling, and took away two oxen pertaining to her, and continues heavily to oppress her and her tenants, ' she being ane ageit gentil- woman, destitute of her husband, and her friendis far dwelling from her.' The Lords remit the matter to be pursued before the Judge Ordinary, and ordains the Laird of Drummelzier to find caution for the indemnity of the complainer and her tenants. 1603, Feb. 24. Complaint to the Privy Council by Adam Veitch in Fethane, who states that on the 5th instant, William and Thomas Scott of Hundleshope, with others their accomplices, 'all bodin in feir of weir, with hacquebettis and pistoletts, came to the lands of Fethane, and thair cuttit and distroyit the said complenaris gangand pleuch, reft and tuke away his plew-irons, and schamfullie and unhonesthe dang his plewmen, and left them for deid.' The complainer proceeds to mention that the outrage had been incited by Scott of Hayning and Scott of JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. *I25 Thirlstane, who, along with the actual perpetrators not appearing, are denounced rebels. P. C. R. July 27. At a court of justiciary, Thomas Horsburgh, burgess of Peebles, was accused of ' the murder of William Chisholme in Peebles, with his own quhinger, under silence and cloud of night, also of the theftous stealing of ten sax li peces and tuentie merkis in quhite silver, pertening to the said umqle William, under his bed-heid, on the month of March last. And likewise of stealing tuentie tua li fra his guid- mother.' The assize unanimously, by the mouth of Michael Hunter of Polmood, pronounced the panel guilty of the said crimes ' Sentence to be tane to the Castell-hill of Edinburghe, and thair to be hangit on ane gibitt until he be deid ; and thaireftir his heid and richt hand to be strukin fra his body ; and his heid to be set upoun ane pike upoun the stepell-heid of Peiblis; and his richt hand to be put on the Eist-port thairof ; .and all his movable guidis to be escheit.' \ 1604, July 4. ' Ane grate fyre in Peibleis town.' Such is the very brief notice of an accidental fire in Peebles in 1604, given by Birrel in his Diarey of events in Scotland from 1532 till 1605, and we are unable, from any local authority, to describe the nature or the extent of the conflagration. The oldest known tolbooth in Peebles was, as its name imports, a booth or building for taking toll at one of the gates. This ancient prison is understood to have been situated at the foot of the Briggate, in the line of the town-wall, such being a principal entry to the town from the north. Falling into decay, the old tolbooth is found insufficient, and becomes a proper subject of remonstrance by the Privy Council. 1605, Oct. 25. Hector Cranston, burgess of Peebles, as procurator for the provost, bailies, and council, makes appearance and undertakes the obligation that, ' within the space of tua yeires, they sail big ane sufficient and suir tolbuith and prisone within the toun, able for keiping of all sic malefactouris and prisonairis as sail happen to be committit to ward within the same, for whom the toun sail be alwyes ansuerable, and that thair said tolbuith sail be sufficientlie providit and fumeist with irnis and stokes, under the pane of ane thousand pundis.' /*. C. R. The building erected in obedience to this order stood in the High Street, opposite the spot now occupied by the town-hall. 1 Pitcairn's Criminal Trials. 126 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 1606, Aug. 22. The provost, bailies, and council of Peebles com- plain to the Privy Council that John Hay of Smithfield had interrupted them in the ' bigging of ane loft and seat within the Croce Kirk of Peblis.' The Lords remit the case to the presbytery of Peebles to examine and report ; ' and in the meantyme the said complenaris and the said John Hay to disist fra bigging of the said dask and loft.' The presbytery, having made all proper inquiry, report that the com- plainers had proceeded in an orderly manner to make their ' dask and seat ;' also that ' the said John Hay has na farther libertie within the said kirk nor ony other gentleman of the countrey ; and ordanit the said complenaris onlie to give him libertie to set up ane dask and seat within the said kirk in the first vacance.' In absence of the defender, the report is allowed, and the provost, bailies, and council are permitted to proceed with the building of the seat. P. C. 1?. 1606, Nov. 23. James Tweedy of Drummelzier, and various others, are summoned to the Privy Council, on nth December following, to give their advice as to the best means of keeping the peace on the borders. Two months previously, in a sweeping act of justice, George, Earl of Dunbar, had caused upwards of 140 of the boldest border outlaws to be hanged. P. C. R. 1607, Jan. 29. A complaint is before the Privy Council, from which it is incidentally learned that, some time previous to September 1601, James Govan, proprietor of Cardrona, had, in the course of a local feud, been slain by John Scott, brother to Walter Scott of Tushielaw. Of this murder, John Scott was still ' unrelaxt.' P. C. R. 1607, Sept. 3. Tweedy of Drummelzier, who, less than a year ago, was thought fit to aid the public authorities in securing peace, is now himself the subject of complaint. Thomas Halden of that Ilk, and Thomas Porteous of Glenkirk, become bound for James Tweedy of Drummelzier, that he, for himself and his friends, shall keep the king's peace, keep the country in quietness, and in no way molest Sir David Lindsay of Edzell, his son, and friends who are answerable and at horn for the slaughter of the deceased Lord of Spynie, under pain of 5000 merks ; and James Tweedy binds himself to observe the same. A few days later, the Lindsays are similarly bound not to molest Tweedy and his friends. P. C. R. 1608, Jan. 7. The Privy Council, finding that an assurance subscribed by Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, on the one part, and Mr Archibald Douglas, parson of Peebles, on the other part, is now expired and outrun, ' albeit the variance and controversie betwix thame is not removit or tane away,' order new assurance to the same effect be forthwith mutually subscribed. On the 2ist of the same month, 'Andro, the son of JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 127 Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, for not keeping the above assurance, is ordered to appear before the Council, ' to underlie sic ordour as sail be prescryvit unto him.' Andro disobeys, and on the 4th of February is denounced rebel. P. C. R. From time immemorial, festivities, including horse-racing, had taken place at Peebles on Beltane-day, the 1st of May; but such was now the unsettled state of the country, that the Privy Council felt itself entitled to forbid any assemblage in the present year. April 28. Forasmeikle as the Lords of Secret Council are informit that there is ane horse-race appointit to be held at Peblis the - - day of May nextocome, whereunto grit numbers of people, of all qualities and ranks, intends to repair, betwix whom there being quarrels, private grudges, and miscontentment, it is to be feint that, at their meeting upon fields, some troubles and inconvenients sail fall out amangs them, to the break of His Majesty's peace, and disquieting of the country, without remeed be providit ; therefore the Lords of Secret Council has dischargit, and be the tenor hereof discharges, the said horse-race, and ordains that the same sail be nawise halden nor keepit this year ; for whilk purpose ordains letters to be direct, to command, charge, and inhibit all and sundry His Majesty's lieges and subjects, by open proclamation at the mercat-cross of Peblis, and other places needful, that nane of them to convene and assemble themselves to the said race this present year, but to suffer that meeting and action to depart and cease, as they and ilk ane of them will answer upon the contrary at their heichest peril. P. C. X. April 28. Alexander Tait, younger of Pim, complains on account of threatened excommunication by the Presbytery of Peebles. He says that the Presbytery insists he shall raise the corpse of the late George Tait of Innerleithen, ' wha was buried six weeks syne within the kirk of Innerleithen, under the paine of excommunication ;' an injunction he remonstrates against, as he had no particular part in the burial, but only ' gave his presence in company with a grite number of barronis, gentel- men, and common people ; and further, it is aganis Christiane charitie to raise the deid who have been past six weeks in the grave ; and it will not be in the complenaris power to get that corps raisit, becaus he is but ane mean man of little or no friendship, and the said George has a grite number of friendis about the said kirk, quho will not suffer him to rais the said corps.' The members of the presbytery not appearing to answer the complaint, they are discharged from taking any proceedings against the complainer. P. (7. R. 128 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSH1RE. Another case of binding over to keep the peace by a set of Peeblesshire lairds comes up in the Privy Council, May 17. Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, his bairns, kin, and friends on the one part, and Gledstanes of that Ilk, and Halden of that Ilk, their kin and friends, on the other part, being like to fall out betwix thame, the Lords ordain the said parties 'to subscryve sic forme of assurance as sal be presentit to thame, to endure unto the first day of May 1609, and to cause cautionaires lykewyse subscryve the said assurance under the pane of .3000 ' Scots. P. C. R. Fig. 24. Horsbrugh Castle in ruins (1856). In a previous chapter, we have noticed the antiquity of the Horsburghs, who had adopted a surname from their place of residence, a fortalice picturesquely situated on a mount in the vale of Tweed, at the distance of about two miles and a half east from Peebles. Residing in this their castle of Horsbrugh, now the dismally shattered ruin represented in the above sketch, they for generations occupied the position of sheriff-depute of Peeblesshire, and there- fore, both from territorial and official dignity, were reckoned among the magnates of the county. Startling as have been some of our revelations of past manners, perhaps JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 129 none is more so than those respecting the Horsburghs, who, emulating the disorderliness of the Lords Yester, sheriffs-prin- cipal, exposed themselves to public complaint in connection with feuds, brawls, and slaughters. Already, as has been seen, they had to subscribe an assurance to keep the peace, and now one of them becomes answerable to a charge of a criminal nature. On the /th of July 1608, William Horsburgh, brother to Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, is accused before the Privy Council of having slaughtered James Douglas, son of ' Maister Archibald Douglas, archdeacon of Glasgow.' For this heavy offence, he had been denounced rebel on the I4th and i6th of May, and being still at large, the Lords ordain the captain of His Majesty's guard to bring him to justice, and to ' tak his houssis, and remove his servandis and familie furth thairof, mak inven- tuir of his guidis and geir thairintill, and to reporte the same to His Majestie's theasaurer.' P. C. R. 1608, Nov. 3. Mr Archibald Douglas, parson of Peebles, Mr James Douglas, his son, James Elliot, his sister's son, Steven, William, and John Robesens in Eschailles, James Horsburgh, thair, Adam and John Winterhoipis, thair, James Newton, and Thomas Smyth, complain to the Privy Council on the score of excessive caution-money ; but what is the offence with which they are charged, is not stated. A prosecution had been raised against them, at the instance of the provost, bailies, council, and community of Peebles ; and from Douglas, his son, and some others, security had been demanded to the extent of ^"1000 Scots, the remainder 500 merks. Now, they allege ' these sowmes ar far above the sowmes appointit be the act of parliament, and the said Mr Archibald Douglas is ane minister having no leving bot stipend for serving of the cure at the said kirk, and Mr James Douglas hes not ony leving, but sic as his father pleisis to bestow, and the remanent personis are but pure laboureirs, not valiant in ane hundredth merkis of frie gier.' Parties appearing by their procurators, the Lords find that the penalty imposed on Douglas, his son, and nephew should not be modified ; the rest to find caution under a penalty of .100 Scots each. P. C. R. Dec. 22. James Ker, servitor to the Laird of Fernyhirst, repre- sents to the Privy Council that on the i2th of March last, 'he being within the burgh of Peblis, thair doing his lauchful aflfairis, James Govan, brother to Govan of Cardrona, and William Gibson in Kailzie- mylne, with swordis, gantillatis, plait slevis, and other wappenis invasive, I 130 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. came and thair upbraidit the said complenair with mony injurious speecheis, and them with drawn swordis invadit and perseuit him of his lyff, and strak from him the mid finger of his left hand, mutillat him thairof and of the haill remanent fingaris of the same hand, and hurte and woundit him in divers utheris pairtis of his body, to the effusioun of his blood in grite quantitie, and had not faillit to have slane him, were not be the providence of God and his awne bettir defence he eschaiped.' Defenders not appearing, are denounced rebels. P. C. R. Under the same date a large number of tenants of John Stewart of Traquair having failed to make appearance to answer the charge of non-payment to him of 1000 merks as principal, and IOO merks of liquidate expenses possibly on the score of rent are denounced rebels by the Privy Council. The case is of no public interest. We notice it only for the purpose of citing an instance of using a nickname in a legal record. One of the defaulters is ' William Rutherfurd, callit Nateis Willie.' P. C. R. 1609, May 25. Mr Archibald Bow, minister at Stobo, sues James Tweedy in Stank, denounced rebel for not removing himself ' fra that pairt of the said complenaris gleib callit the Willie Croft.' Defender not appearing, the captain of the king's guard is ordered to apprehend and bring him to justice. P. C. R. About this period, and somewhat later, the town of Peebles was in trouble as regards education. The old ecclesiastical endowments which should have been partly appropriated for this purpose being now gone, there was a difficulty in keeping up schools. In a thin quarto printed for private circulation, purport- ing to be ' Extracts from the common good of various Burghs in Scotland, relative to Schools and Schoolmasters between the years 1557 and 1634,' we find the following particulars regarding the salaries paid to the schoolmasters in Peebles from 1608 to 1634: 1608. Item, To Mr John Young, skuilmaister, for his yierly fee and chamber mail [lodging-rent], . . ;i9 Scots. Item, Given to the doctor of the skuill, . . . 16 Item (1628-1634), Given to our scholmaister and doctour for their fees, 250 merks. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 13! Two facts are here worthy of notice. The entire salary of the schoolmaster of Peebles, in 1608, amounted to only .109 Scots, or g, is. 8d. sterling ; and there was a functionary belonging to the school called a ' doctor,' or tutor, one of whose duties was to teach singing, for which service he received the munificent annual salary of i, is. ^d. sterling. 1609, May 30. Sir John Murray of Blackbarony for himself and Sir Archibald Murray, his son, produces before the Privy Council a summons, at the instance of ' Robert Yousting in Mirrielawis,' as father, and rest of the kinsmen of the deceast Patrick Yousting, servitor to the said Sir John, charging him for detaining the person of William Drysdale, servitor of the said Sir Archibald, and so preventing his trial for the murder of the said Patrick ; and protested that in the absence of the defender nothing should follow on said summons, but that he, Sir John, and his friends should be relieved of the said Drysdale. Protestation admitted. P. C. R. 1609, June 6. Mr Archibald Douglas, parson of Peebles, and Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, charged to renew their assurances of peace until i June 1610. P. C. R. 1610, Feb. 22. The provost, bailies, council, and community of Peebles sue Sir Robert Scott of Thirlstane for invading their lands with a number of men, destroying their ploughs, and threatening the lives of the complainers. The Privy Council order the captain of the king's guard to apprehend the parties complained against, and bring them to justice./ 1 . C. R. 1610, Feb. 22. The presbytery of Peebles complain to the Privy Council that the practice of burying in churches, especially the church of Innerleithen, in their bounds, was continued, in spite of an ordnance of the General Assembly, which was approved by the King and Council. The Lords ordain that none shall bury within churches but those who have a heritable right, or shall receive the consent of the minister and elders, under a penalty of ^40. P. C. R. 1610, Aug. 30. Which day, before the Privy Council, compeared 'James Vetch in Stewartoun, and having humblie, upon his kneis, grantit and confest that he had sclandcrit Jonas Hamiltoun of Quotquoit, and Alexander Hamiltoun, his brother, in stating thame to have bene the outputteris of certane guidis and geir stowin fra Ramsay of Whitehill, and thairfore he humblie cravit the said Jonas' forgivenes ; lykeas Jonas being present, forgave the said James, tuke him be the hand, and was reconsiliat with him. And siklyk, compeirit William Veitch of Dawik, and become suritie that the said James Veitch sail compeir at the kirk 132 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of Newbottle, upon Sunday nixt afoir none, and thair, in presence of parrochynnaris, sail confes his offence, and crave thame forgivenes, under the pane of ^1000 ' Scots. P. C. R. 1611, Feb. 21 Robert Horsburgh, burgess of Peebles, complains to the Privy Council, that on the 7th instant, William Scott, son to Philip Scott of Dryhope, with his accomplices, to the number of twelve persons, ' bodin in feir of weir,' came, under cloud and silence of night, about ten hours at even, to the complainer's ' dwelling-house within the said burgh, quhair he and his familie wer repairing to thair beddis, and thair perforce enterit within the said house, and invadit and persewit him for his bodelie harm and slauchter, gaif him mony bauch, bla, and bluidy straikis on divers pairtis of his bodie, of purpois to have slane the complenair, quhilk they had done, wer not he relevit be certane of the inhabitants.' Defender not appearing, is denounced rebel. P. C. R. To what extent William Horsburgh, brother to the laird of that Ilk, paid the penalty for his transgressions, does not appear. That he was not greatly worse than the other members of the family, appears from an entry in the Record, June 27, 1611, when there is a serious complaint lodged against the laird and his sons. It sets forth ' that Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, and Alexander, William, and John Horsburgh, his sons, have, during the last four years, worne hagbutis and pistolletis, and at everie tyme thay had occasion to repair from thair awne houses on horse or fute, thay came nevir ane myle without pistolletis or hagbutis in thair handis, as also ordinarilie with swordis, and as yet continues thair violation of his Hienes lawis in so far as, upon the day of June instant, Alexander Hay wes upon the landis of Sheilgrene, without company or armour, and having some grudge aganis him, thay all horsit, and with grite speid went to the pairt quhair the said Alexander Hay wes, and as soon as thay came in sicht of him, thay kuist thair cloikis frome thame, took their swordis and pistolletis in thair handis, and with all thair speid ran toward the said Alexander Hay, chassit him ane myle towardis ane house of his fatheris, and had not he left his horse and taken to his fute, having the advantage of ane hill whiche wes not verie possible to thame to wone on horsbak, thay had not faillit to have slane JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 133 the said Alexander Hay.' The defenders were assoilzied for want of proof. P. C. R. The preceding complaint of Hay, younger, of Smithfield, against the Horsburghs, probably led to the case which, on the nth of July, comes before the Council. Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk states that, on the 2d instant, ' John Hay of Smith- field, Alexander Hay, heir appeirand of Smithfield, and John Hay, both sons of the said John Hay of Smithfield, accompanied with Archibald Hamilton and John Young, servandis of the said John Hay, Walter Somervill, servand to the said Alexander Hay, and William Dickson, younger in Smithfield, with utheris, with swordis, gantillatis, plaitslevis, steill bonnetis, jakkis, lances, and uther wapponis, came to the said complenair, and quhairof he and his predecessouris hes bene in peacable possession thir mony yeiris bygane past memorie of man, quhair the said complenair his cattail, scheip, and bestiall wer for the tyme pasturing, and thair set lances to thair thyis, brak at the said bestiall, and aftir a most insolent maner, houndit, chassit, and drave away the said haill guidis and bestiall off the said com- montie of Glentres, and hes hurt, bloodit, and deidlie woundit a grite number of the said bestiall in the flankis, brochis, and uther pairtis of thair bodyis, quhairof a grite mony thairthrow are liklie to die.' The defenders were assoilzied upon their oath, to which the truth was referred. The feud of old standing between the Veitches of Dawick and the Tweedies of Drummelzier was still unappeased in March 1611, and besides giving trouble to the Privy Council, surprises the king, who now, after a residence of about eight years in England, expected to hear no more of these two turbulent Peeblesshire families. The Lords of the Privy Council are now ordered to call before them the principals of both surnames, and then adopt measures for removing the feud, and effecting mutual reconciliation between them. On the nth of the same month, Mr Richard Powrie, minister at Dawick, sues William Tweedie, who was in prison, for uttering reproachful speeches against the king and Lords of Council, and for pursuing the complainer with 134 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the intent of taking his life. Some of the king's guard are ordered to bring Tweedie from the tolbooth of Peebles to Edinburgh, there ' to be wardit in the theivis hoill,' and to secure a number of witnesses to be examined in the case. These witnesses are chiefly tenants in the parish of Stobo, two of them being ' John Alexander callit Over John, and John Alexander callit Nether John.' While Tweedie is in ward, he is to pay his own expenses. 1612, Sept. ii. James Noble, in the Eistburne of Stobo, son of the deceased John Noble there, with the rest of their kinsmen, complain that John Scott, called the Clerk in Elrig, murderer of said John Noble, and denounced rebel in default of finding security for his appearance before the Council, is still at large. The Lords order the captain of the king's guard to bring him to justice. P. C. J?. 1613, July 15. Sir Robert Stewart, tutor of Traquair, complains that William Haliburton in Whitrig, denounced rebel for not appearing to answer touching ' his allegeit presenting of ane bendit hagbute to the said Schir Robert, avowing to shoote him thairwith, gif he quarrillit or fand fault with him.' The Lords order the captain of the king's guard to bring him to justice. P. C. R. In 1615, we again unpleasantly hear of the Horsburghs. On the nth of July, 'John Johnstone in Lie' probably the farm now called the Lee, parish of Innerleithen complains that being one day lately ' within the burgh of Peblis, William Horsburgh, son to the Laird of Horsburgh, came to the said complenair, feirslie set upon him, and with a drawne sword shamefullie invadit him, gaif him a deidlie wound on the head, and woundit him in divers uther pairts, and left him lyand for deid.' Defender not appearing, is denounced rebel. P. C. R. Little more than a month afterwards, the Laird of Horsburgh complains of the conduct of his eldest son, who seems to have been quite as troublesome a youth as his brother William. Under date August 23, 1615, the laird piteously states to the Privy Council, ' That Alexander Horsburgh, his eldest son, having shaikcn off all feir of God, reverence of the law, and that natural regaird and dcwtie quhilk he audit to his said father, and being unmyndful of the exceeding grite favouris whilk he bore to JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 135 him, and of the mony benefits done be his father to him, he hes verie unnaturallie behavit himselff to the said complenair thir divers yeiris bigone, not onlie be drawing mony unnecessar actions of pley [law-pleas] upon him, constraining him thairby to tyne his tyme, and to spend his geir ; but with that he hes socht, and still seikis the undoing of his said fatheris house and leving, descendit to him from so mony progenitouris. And becaus he perseives that his father and his other bairnis doeth quhat in thame lyis to preserve thair fatheris leving from utter wraik, and hes frustrat some of his wicked desynes, he hes thairfore conseivit siche a haitrit that nothing can content him but thair lyves ; and his said father fearis that he will attempt some violent purpois aganis his lyfe, as namlie, in 1610, he set upon Walter Horsburgh, the complenaris son, at his awne yett, with a drawn sword, and persewit him for his lyfe a long tyme, gaif him fyve deidlie woundis, and has mutilat him in his leg, sae that he was constraynit, for saftie of the said Walteris lyfe, to send him out of the countrey ; and at Martymas last, the said Alexander lay await for John Horsburgh, the complenaris son, as he was coming out of the toun of Peblis, and presentit ane bendit pistollet at him, quhilk be the providence of God having misgevin, he persewit him with a drawn sword, resolvit to haif slane him, wer not his son bettir defence.' This young scape- grace not appearing to answer the charge brought against him, is denounced rebel a circumstance which gave the incipient sheriff-depute no concern, for he continued to go about as usual, and was again complained of by his father on the 25th of January 1616. The captain of the king's guard is now ordered to apprehend and produce him ; but if he was captured, it would only be to be liberated on giving some sort of security for future good-behaviour. No notice is taken of the fact. 1616, Feb. i. James Eistoun, burgess of Edinburgh, complains that one day lately, as he was ' coming from the Lynkes of Leith, quhair he had bene recreating himselff at the gowff, to the burgh of Edinburgh, quhair he hes his residence,' he was set upon by James Tweedy, son to Mr John Tweedy of Dreva, who ' invadit him with a drawn sword, gaif furth 136 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. mony straikis at him, cuttit his hat and cloik, raschit him to the ground, and reft from the complenair his cloub, quhairwith he defendit himselff, and thairwith gaif the complenair mony bauch, bla, and bluidy strykis to have slane him, wer not he stayit be certane personis thair present.' The Lords order Tweedy to put himself in ward in the tolbooth of Edinburgh within six days, and to remain there till freed by the said Lords. P. C. X. 1616, Feb. 6. Sir John Stewart of Traquair, and his tutor, Sir Robert Stewart of Schillinglaw, complain that Adam Goold, a king's messenger, who, on their behalf, was executing a warrant of poinding four ky and oxen, against William Trumble, younger of Bedrule, had been unlawfully deforced by Thomas, eldest son of the said William, and George Douglas, his servand ; ' thay not onlie stayit the said messenger fra taking away of the said goodis, bot pat violent handis on the said messenger, and held and detenit him houris ; lykeas the said personis, in farder contempt of his Majestic, wore hagbutis and pistollets.' Defenders not appearing, are denounced rebels. P. C. R. 1616, March 7. Complaint of John Govan of Cardrona That upon the last day of November, Alexander Horsburgh, younger of that Ilk, as principal, and Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, James Sandilands of Bold, and James Horsburgh, wobster, burgess of Peebles, as cautioners for him, were denounced rebels at the complainer's instance, for non- payment of 1200 merks, of which they remain unrelaxt. The captain of the king's guard is ordered to apprehend them. P. C. R. 1616, March 21. John Stewart of Traquair, and Stewart of Schilling- law, complain that William Trumble, younger of Bedrule, Thomas Trumble, his son, and George Douglas, his servand, denounced rebels on the nth instant, are still at large. The captain of the king's guard is ordered to apprehend them. P. C. R. 1616, Nov. 14. Mr Alexander Bow, parson of Stobo, complains that James Tweedie of Dreva, who was, at his instance, on 2oth May last, denounced a rebel, ' for not payment to him of the sowme of 250 merkis money for Beltine termes payment of his stipend,' is still at large. The captain of the king's guard is ordered to bring him to justice. On the 1 6th of December, Mr Richard Powrie, minister of Dawick, makes a similar complaint against Tweedy and his son, and a similar order is issued, probably without avail, for there soon after occur several cases in which the Tweedies are in ward for debt. P. C. R. 1616, Dec. 16. James Thomson in Windidoris complains to the Privy Council, that being in the burgh of Peebles doing his lawful affairs, the provost and bailies caused tak and commit him to the tolbooth, where he is still detained without a decreit, he being His Majesty's free JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 137 liege. The complainer appears by his procurator ; and as the provost and bailies do not appear in answer to the summons, they are denounced rebels./'. C. R. The visit of James VI. to Scotland, in May 1617, caused much ceremonious rejoicing among the lieges. His Majesty entered the country by Berwickshire ; and after remaining some time in Edinburgh, and making several excursions, he returned to England by way of Glasgow and Dumfries. In this final journey towards the border, he did not take his state-carriage with him, perhaps in consequence of the badness of the roads, but left it at Edinburgh, to be forwarded through Peeblesshire, so as to meet the royal retinue. Accordingly, on the 8th of July, the following order appears in the Privy Council Records respecting the transit of this grand but very lumbering machine : Order respecting the king's carriage and household stuff now lying at Holyrood House, 'that the same sal be lifted by those of the scheriffdom of Edinburgh, upon the iyth July instant, and caryed thairfra to Brughtoun in Twedale, and whereas the scheriffdom of Peblis is the most adjacent scheriffdom that can assist this service, and carye the said carriage from Brughtoun to Dumfries, whilk service will require 50 horse or thairby, necessar it is that, according to the order tane in all uther pairtis whare his Majesties progress and journey lay, that the scheriff and his deputis see this service performit. Thairfor ordanis to charge the scheriff of Peblis and his deputis, and Sir Archibald Murray of Dernhall, convenair of the justices of peace, and the inhabitants,' with the due execution of this royal service. 1617, July 31. William Veitch of Lyne complains that, ' upon occasion of ane accident whilk fell out within the toun of Kirkurd laitlie, quhair Malcolme Cokburne and Robert Hamiltoun were hurte, the said complenair was tane be the Laird of Skirling, who is ane privat person, becaus he happenit to be present, and he hes brocht him to Edinburgh, and committit him to waird within the hue hous of the tolbuith, and nane of his friendis sufferit to have access unto him.' Veitch states, in addition, that he had nothing to do with the hurting of the said persons, and only acted as a ' reddair, and did quhat in him lay to have sinderit thame.' The Lords set him at liberty, on finding caution for his appearance when required. P. C. R. On the 22d of October 1617, a strange case comes before the Privy Council respecting a quarrel about rights to lands in the 138 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. parish of Innerleithen. Agnes Lawder, liferenter of the lands of Pirn, and Richard and John Lawder, her sons, complain that John Scott, their tenant in these lands, had, along with his bairns, brother-in-law, and servants, resolved to seize on the heritable possession of the property ; and because this unreason- able design was resisted, ' James Cairncross, son to Charles Cairncross of Birksueip, came to the said landis of Pirne, and houndit thair bestiall and guidis off the said landis, invadit the said Richard 'and John ; gaif John a nomber of strykis with a grite fork, quhairwith he fellit him deid to the ground; and strak the said Richard in the thie with quhingair ; and Agnes Cairncross, spous to John Scott, younger, upon the 24 day of September last, upbraided the said Agnes Lawder, hir maistres, calling hir' by a most opprobrious epithet, for which she was summoned to appear before the minister and elders of the parish on the following Sunday ; but when she appeared in the kirk, she broke out worse than ever, vowing that ' afore she sleipit, she sould gif the said Agnes better caus to complain, and that she sould mak hir to haif a cauld armefull of some of hir bairnis.' And that same day, she convened the Scotts and Cairncrosses under cloud of night, and with spears and other weapons, the party invaded the house of the Lawders, ' dang the said Richard throw the airme with a lance, chaisit him and his bruther, strak a nomber of strykis at the said John Lawder with drawne swordis, quhairby thay have mutilat him of twa fingeris of his hand, and left him and his said bruther for deid.' Defenders assoilzied for want of proof. The case on the one side being thus disposed of, next comes on the per contra, under same date. John Scott in Pirn ; Agnes Cairncross, his spouse ; Charles Cairncross, and one of his servants, complain that John Lawder in Pirn came to the lands of Birksuip, and there invaded the said Charles and said servant ' with a grite kent [stick], and left him lyand on the ground for deid.' And further, that upon - day of September, being Sunday, Richard Lawder in Pirn, and John, his brother, 'came by way of hamesuckin to the said John Scottis dwelling-house in Pirne, and thair set upon him with JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 139 drawne swordis, on purpois to have slane him, quhilk he would have done, had not he inclosit himselff within his awne house ; and forgathering with the said Agnes, his spous, thay without pitie persewit hir with drawne swordis, and gaif hir a grite wound in the heid, quhairby she wants a grite pairt of the harne-pane [skull] of hir heid, and left hir for deid.' Truth of the averments being referred to the oath of the defenders, the whole matter was denied, and they were consequently assoilzied ; but both parties were ordered to find caution to keep the peace. This is one of numerous examples of false charge or perjury coming before the Council. 1618, March 19. Anent letters raised at the instance of the provost and bailies of Peebles, complaining that upon the of February last, John Govan in Peebles having invaded William Porteous in Peebles ' for his bodelie harm and slauchter, and being commandit be Charles Pringle, bailie, to go to waird, hes not onlie refusit, but most insolentlie strak the bailie, and persewit him for his lyff, for the quhilk he being be the nichbouris tane to waird, he all that day indirectlie causit suche friendis as he had in the said burgh to brek the tolbuith dure, and to tak him oute ; lykeas be his persuasine, William Gibsoun in Cailzie, and William Scott, servitor to Paterson of Langcoitt, came under cloud and silence of nicht to the tolbuith, brak up the duris, and tooke the said John furth.' Gibson and Scott not appearing, are denounced rebels. P. C. R. 1618, March 26. Sir Robert Stewart of Schillinglaw complains that David Stewart, brother to James Stewart of Tynnes, a cadet of the House of Traquair, being slain by Andro Pringle, son to the deceased James Pringle of Tynnes, who was accidentally accompanied by James Murray, the brother of Sir John Murray of Philiphaugh, sheriff of Ettrick Forest, Patrick Murray of Kirkhouse, and John Murray of New- hall; and this slaughter being likely to produce a feud between the House of Traquair and Sir John Murray, their friends and allies, Sir Robert engaged when he should become tutor to his nephew the Laird of Traquair, to entertain overtures of continued friendship with Murray. These overtures took the form of a submission (from which Andrew Pringle was excluded), decreeing by arbiters that satisfaction should be made to the children of the deceased David, who were to become bound on their majority to sign ' letters of slains,' authorised by their tutors and curators. Nevertheless, John Stewart, son of the deceased David, and now major, and Alexander Stewart, son of James Stewart 140 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of Tynnes, his cousin-german, refuse to sign letters of skins, and inclined to produce a feud between the families. The defenders not appearing, are denounced rebels. But they afterwards appear, sign the letters, and the decree against them is suspended. P. C. R. 1619, July 20. John Stewart of Traquair prosecutes Walter Turnbull of Bedrule, and others, for unlawfully cutting down and taking away his woods. And on Aug. 25, he prosecutes the Turnbulls for carrying away ' 30 darge of hay.' Defenders not appearing, are denounced rebels. P. C. JR. 1620, March 30.' The provost and bailies of the burgh of Peebles complain that on the loth instant, Beatrix Ker Lady Gladstanes, William, Robert, and James, her sons, Robert Dickson in Hundelshope, Alex- ander Melros there, and William Ker, plewman there, with about ten other persons, ' all bodin in feir of weir, came to the commontie of the burgh called Kaidmuir, quhair some of the inhabitants were occupied in thair lauchful affairis, upon thair awne heritage, and thair threatnit thame with death gif they depairtit not the ground, and did quhat in thame lay to have brokin His Majesties peace, and to have committit some open insolence against the complenaris.' William Elliote, provost, John Dickson, bailie, and James Williamson, late bailie, made appearance as complainers. Defenders not appearing, are denounced rebels. P. C. JR. 1620, Aug. 23. William Elliote, provost, John Dickson and John Louis, bailies, and Alexander Mure, treasurer, and the whole council of Peebles, apply for suspension of letters of horning raised against them at the instance of Alexander Lawder of Halton, charging them to find caution for his indemnity, or for that of John Lawder his herd, under penalty of 3000 merks, and being denounced rebels because the penalty far exceeds the sum specified in the act of parliament. Letters of horning suspended. P. C. JR. For some years about this period, the books of the Privy Council bear frequent entries concerning debts incurred by the Tweedies, with denunciations of hornings and captions. Pressed by financial difficulties, they begin to dispose of their lands, and the clan in its several branches would otherwise appear to have been now approaching that crisis which naturally ensued from generations of turbulence and defiance of the law ; the wonder really being that they had not long since been swept as brigands from the county. With this explanation, we are not unprepared for the following strange circumstances connected with the sale of Halmyre. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 14! 1621, July 21. John Murray of Halmyrc states, 'That he having laitlie bought certane landis fra James Tweedie, sometyme of Dreva, at the pryce agreit on, and so thinking in peace to have possessit his landis, it is of a treuthe that Thomas Tweedie in Dunsyre, and William Tweedie of Scottistoun, brether to the said James, resolved to force the complenair to buy thair kynd- ness [that is, give them a present in token of good-will on acquiring lands from their kinsman], or then to haif his lyff, or els to lay his landis waist ; ' and the complainer learning that, notwithstanding their pretended friendship, they cherished some hatred against him, he raised letters of horning against them on 10 May last, 'quhairof the charge was no sooner execute, but thay avowit that thay sould haif his lyff, before thay fand caution, and for the execution of this thair resolution, thay upon the 1 3 day of the said month maid search for the comple- nair, about his house, demanding first at James Tweedie in the Deaneis of Romanno quhair the said complenair was, and thair- eftir at James Smaill and Alexander , his awne tennentis of Halmyre, and knawing be thame that he had riddin to the Walkfeild, but thair finding that he was riddin away, the said Thomas sent to the plais of Coitquoit for his sones best horse, quhilk being brought, he and his bruthir horssit and followit the complenair to Lintoun, and fra that to his awne house ;' there 4 thay drew thair sword is, and before the complenair was able to haif maid his defence, gaif him ane grite straik upon his left leg, by the quhilk he fell to the ground, and being lyand, thay gaif him a number of deidlie straikis, and left him as a dead man, and threattnit his tennents to haif thair lyves gif thay labourit the said landis.' P. C. R. The defenders were ordered to be committed to prison ; but it will immediately appear that the order was not executed. Same dale. Thomas Tweedie, portioner of Netherurde, and William Tweedie of Scottistoun, complain that John Murray of Halmyre having lately charged them to find legal security to keep the peace towards him, they attempted to settle the matter in a friendly way, but he having in company with James Murray 142 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of Romanno, and Thomas Edmond in Slipperfield, attacked them at the Bromehouse, between Linton and Edinburgh, and seriously wounded Thomas Tweedie. Defenders assoilzied on the ground that the pursuers were the first to attack. P. C. R. Same date. John Murray of Halmyre complains that John Tweedie of Dreva, John Tweedie his son, feir thairof, Mr James Tweedie, portioner of Stobo, Thomas Tweedie of Dunsyre, Mr John Tweedie of Winkistoun, John Tweedie of Henderl ethane, Walter Tweedie, son to said James of Dreva, William Tweedie of Scottistoun, Alexander Tweedie in Broughtoun, son to said John Tweedie of Dreva, and William Tweedie, son to said John Tweedie of Henderl ethane, all denounced rebels for not finding caution to keep the complainer skaithless, are still at large. Captain of the king's guard ordered to apprehend them and bring them to justice. P. C. R. Amidst these scandalous feuds, which reflect little credit on the past history of the county, Peebles received from James VI. a special mark of his favour, by being granted a charter not only in ratification, but in extension of former privileges as a royal burgh. In this important document, which, confirmed by parliament November 17, 1641, has ever since remained the palladium of the town in its corporate capacity, the king graciously refers to the services rendered by the inhabitants, 'not only by defending the country against foreign enemies, but also by exposing their persons and estates to open and evident oppression, as well by struggling on the borders of England as of Scotland, and likewise the great prejudice and loss sustained by them from thence, both in punishing transgressors and other disturbers within the bounds of our kingdom, their city being often spoiled, burnt, and laid waste, and desolated, lying contigu- ous to the said borders.' 1 Looking to the extensive commons, including Kingsmuir, Caidmuir, Hamildean, Venlaw, and Glen- tress, also the lands, houses, fishings, multures, customs, and sequestrated ecclesiastical property described in this munificent 1 For the charter entire, see Appendix. JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI. 143 charter, we might be justified in saying that few burghs in Scotland had its existence so carefully provided for ; and further, that a history of the alienation of so much wealth, were it possible to tell it minutely, would constitute one of the darkest chapters in the annals of civic maladministration. To the end of King James's life he was destined to hear of nothing but scenes of violence and contempt of law in Peebles- shire. We close for the present with a notice of three characteristic incidents. 1622, Aug. 28. Complaint is made by John Tuedy of Winkiston, that he having a number of kye and oxen pasturing on the lands of Broughtoun, James Pattersane in Myreburn in Dreva, with his son and others, all bodin in feir of weir, came to the complainer's lands, and drove away his said cattle to the close of Dreva, and thair, with swords and knyves cut the tails and rumples of ten or twelf of the poore beasts, sa shamefullie mangling them, that some of them are in danger of their lyves. Defenders assoilzied on oath, to which reference was made by complainer. P. C. R. 1623, July 10. Complaint by John Lord Yester, sheriff-principal of county of Peebles, that George Kerr, sheriff-officer, being sent on the twentie day of Januar to the lands of Hawkshaw to poynd the redyest guides pertaining to Patrick Porteous of Hawkshaw, for his pairt of the present taxatioun, and having apprehend it certane catell and nolt, and used the ordinar forme to carry them to the mercat croce of Peebles, there to have publicly sold the same, the said Patrick with his servands came after him and reft the said guides, and strake and dung him, wherefore that pairt of our Soveraine Lord's taxatioun is yet unpayit. Defender not appearing, is denounced rebel. P. C. R. 1625, Feb. 3 John Laidlie in Cramalt having employed George Ker, sheriff-officer, to effect a poinding of ' the redyest guides pertening to Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, in satisfactioun of certane soums, the said officer past upon the fyft day of Januar last to the landis of Over Horsburgh, and apprehendit certane scheip pertening to the said Laird of Horsburgh, whilk after he had appraised upon the ground, and maid offer thairof to the partie and all others having interest, and nane appearing to accept of the same, he being carrying the same to the mercat croce of Peebles, John and Robert Horsburgh, brethir to the said Alexander, with thair complices to the number of xv. or saxtene, came after the complenair and his friendis, and having overtaikin thame at the East Port of Peebles, set upon and prest violentlie to drive bale 144 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the scheip ; and the officier and his witnesses having come forwart with the scheip to the mercat croce of the said burgh, the said personis set upon the messenger and his witnesses, threatened to bereave him of his lyfe gif he medlet any farther with the said scheip, lykewise thay not onlie strak out diverse straikis, but also threw at them a number of greit stanes.' Defenders assoilzied for want of proof. P. C. jR. In the above affair, Horsburgh, as sheriff-depute, is placed in an awkward position. Sheep being legally carried away from his lands in satisfaction for debt, his brothers deforce the officiating messenger, who was doubtless acting under some kind of regular warrant. The uproar which ensues at the cross of Peebles, where the infuriated Horsburghs and a band of their accomplices strike and throw stones at the unfortunate messenger and his concurrents, is among the most ludicrous incidents it has been our fortune to bring to light. CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. THE accession of Charles I., in 1625, was marked by no event in Peeblesshire of which there is any special record. There continued to be occasional feuds among the gentry, who had not yet learned to submit their disputes, in all cases, to the arbitration of law. Things in this respect, however, were mending. In the reign of Charles I., and more particularly during the Protectorate of Cromwell, the government was con- ducted with more vigour than it had been previously. The Justice ayres, which, as provincial courts of justiciary, had visited Peebles from a period as early as the time of David I., swept off criminal arrears with a growing and somewhat alarming dis- respect of rank. The sheriffs, principal and depute, conducted themselves a little more discreetly. Above all, there now arose a set of petty spiritual courts, which, on the ground of exercising church-discipline, took cognizance of every department of public morals ; and there is now presented the amusing spectacle of irascible and rebellious lairds so cowed into subjection as to pillory themselves barefoot on the stool of repentance at the orders of a parish kirk-session. Fortunately, when facts of this kind are needed to supplement our too meagre nar- rative, we are able to resort to two Records those of the Presbytery of Peebles, and of the several kirk-sessions through- out the county. To do the spiritual dignitaries of the shire justice, J 146 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. whatever we may think of their intelligence and taste, they meant well an excuse of extensive application and assuredly they did not exceed the limits permitted by the General Assembly and Parliament. Three things, inter alia, they endeavoured with ceaseless urgency to effect to extirpate the old superstitious practices which still lingered among the common people ; to hunt down and burn witches ; and to compel a scrupu- lous attention to the weekly Sabbath. The records before us abound in so many entries concerning these grave subjects, that we can do no more than make a selection of extracts. The first two refer to that curious method of vaticination called ' turning the riddle/ which had for its object the discovery of a thief. 1626, July 6. Which day compeared before the Presbytery Janet Henderson in Blythe, within the parish of Linton, and accused of ' turning the riddle,' confessed the same, and came in the will of the Presbytery. She was ordained to stand six Sabbath-days at the kirk-door and place of public repentance at the kirk of Linton, with her feet bare, and clothed in sackcloth, to begin the next Sabbath. There publicly to confess her sins, and that sin in particular, and that she has been an odious and vile deceiver of the people. And farther, the said Janet was bound and obliged herself, that if, in any time hereafter, she should be found doing the like, or using any such charms, she should be held guilty of witchcraft, and suffer accordingly. P. R. Same day. Richard Johnstone in Slipperfield, and Helen Hay, his spouse, parishioners, were delated under suspicion of 'turning the riddle,' and were summoned to the next meeting. They were prevented doing so by sickness, and latterly by the death of the woman. The whole case was referred to the session of Linton. P. R. The charm of ' turning the riddle' was practised in the follow- ing manner. A pair of scissors was stuck in the rim of the riddle, with a string through their eyes, in which two persons put each his forefinger, and suspended the riddle between them, and after spitting east, west, north, and south, they said : ' By St Peter and St Paul, By the virtues of them all, If it was Rob that stealed the plaid, Turn, riddle, turn." If 'Rob' were the thief the riddle turned at the mention of CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 147 his name, and thus the delinquent was detected. We are informed that a riddle was in this manner turned about fifty years ago, when the shop of a shoemaker in Peebles was broken into, for the purpose of discovering who was the depredator. In the present latitudinarian age, people are allowed to select the place of public worship which they are pleased to attend ; but in the reign of Charles I., every one had punctiliously to keep to his own parish church under pain of censure. On the I4th of September 1626, Mr Richard Powrie, minister of Dawick, complained to the Presbytery that the Laird of Dawick did not attend his own parish kirk. This being a serious charge, the members appoint a committee of four of their number to wait on the said laird, and ask his reasons for this extraordinary conduct, and what he intended to do hereafter. The report of the committee, which is brought up on the 4th of October, bears that the laird is very obstinate. Much displeased, the Presbytery cited the laird to appear at next meeting, which he neglected to do, and also failed to appear to answer the charge against him on several subsequent occasions. At length, properly worn out, the laird gave in his reasons for not attending his own parish kirk, but with these the brethren were not satisfied, and issued an edict strictly enjoining the laird ' to keep to his own kirk ' in all time coming, under pain of censure, unless he could give some valid excuse. P. R. A similar case occurs in the Presbytery record, October 19, 1626. Thomas Hay of Scroggs, a place in the parish of Lyne, was complained of by Mr Thomas Hog, minister of Stobo, for not keeping to his own parish kirk, and for frequenting other kirks. The delinquent happening to be present, and hearing the accusation against him, declared that he did not haunt the kirk of Stobo, though it was true he frequented other kirks as occasion offered ; besides, he really did not know which was his own parish kirk, as it was doubtful whether Scroggs was in Stobo or Lyne. The Presbytery decided that Scroggs was in Lyne, and the church of that parish he, the said Thomas Hay, 148 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSIIIRE. must attend in future. At the same time, a general injunction is issued to the effect that every one must attend his own parish kirk, and no other. P. R, Nov. 2. James Douglas of Cowthropple, a place in the parish of Newlands, is accused before the Presbytery of absenting himself from the kirk-session, of which he was a member. Douglas stated in defence, that he had quitted the session on the occasion of ane great wrong he had sustained at the hands of Andro Murray of Romanno, one of his fellow-elders, who, ia the time of the sitting, within the house of the Lord, had called him a liar to his face. The complaint given in was that Murray had said to Douglas, in the hearing of all the people, that his wife's waistcoat was not honest, and neither was any of his gear or that of his parents, or of any Douglas in Scotland. Murray denied having uttered these offensive expressions, but admitted having said something disparagingly to Douglas respecting his wife's waistcoat. It being found that Murray was not entitled to call Douglas a liar, he was deposed for his offence, and compelled to satisfy by standing on the stool of repentance. P. R. 1627, Jan. 4. This day compeared Margaret Dalgliesh, widow in Peebles, accused of witchcraft and charming. Margaret denied the charge, nor could any point be proved against her, except that of uttering speeches in which she menaced some evil to a person with whom she was at variance. So far she confessed, and craved God's pardon, at the same time declaring herself free of witchcraft, and that her speeches were for harm upon them by ordinary means, and not by witchcraft. She bound herself not to do the like again, and is told that if she does, she will be punished. P. R. On the 25th of January 1627, the Privy Council, referring to an act appointing Weapon Shows in the different counties, order that the Weapon Show of the sheriffdom of Peebles shall take place on Friday the i$th of June next. In obedience to this command, a Weapon Show, or, as it used to be called, a Wappen Shawing, took place accordingly, under the direction of CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 149 Nasmyth of Posso, who at this time occupied the office of sheriff-depute ; the place of meeting being the open ground on the south side of the Tweed, called the King's Muir. The following is an accurate account of the meeting, along with a list of those who were absent :* * At that place of the Borrow Muir of Peebles called the King's Muir; in presence of James Nasmyth of Posso, Sheriff-depute of the Sheriffdom of Peebles, the i5th day of June 1627, being the ordinary day and place appointed for the mustering and showing of weapons of the said sheriff- dom ; conform to an act made by the Lords of His Majesty's Secret Council thereanent, and publication following thereon : Compeared the Barons and others under-wrytt ; and gave in their musters, and showing of the weapons, in manner following, viz. : William Brown in Wester Happrew, bailie to my Lord Yester ; in his lordship's name, weil horsit, with jack, plet sleeves, steil bonnet, pistol, and sword ; accompanied with threescore five horsemen and four futmen, all with lances and swords, dwelling on the said noble Lord his lands, in the parishes of Peebles, Line, Stobo, and Drummelzier. James Cheisholm in Glenholm, for my Lord Earl of Wigton ; weil horsit himself, accompanied with seven horsemen, with lances and swords, dwelling on the said noble Earl his lands, lying in the parish of Glenholm. Sir Archibald Murray of Darnhall, weil horsit, with a collet ; accom- panied with forty-two horsemen, with lances and swords, ten jacks and steil bonnets ; within the parishes of Kilbucho and Edilston. The Laird of Glenkirk, absent himself; four of his men present, horsit, with lances and swords ; within the parish of Glenholm. James Geddes of Rachan, present himself, weil horsit, with jack, steil bonnet, sword and pistol ; with five horsemen, with lances and swords ; within the parish of Glenholm. Adam Gillies, portioner of Whitslaid, present, weil horsed, with a lance and sword ; in the parish of Glenholm. James Cockburn, bailie for Sir Jo. Hamilton of Skirling, knight, present, for the said Sir John's name ; accompanied with horsemen, all with lances and swords, and four jacks ; in the parishes of Skirling and Roberton. The Laird of Stenhous, absent himself; seven of his men present, horsit all, with lances and swords ; in the parish of Broughton. 1 We copy from an old MS. in the Barns Papers. The account given by Armstrong, and reprinted in Brown's edition of Pennecuik, is extremely inaccurate, besides being deficient in the list of absentees. 150 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The Laird of Haldon, absent himself; Jo. Haldon, his bailie, present in his name, accompanied with ten horsemen and two futmen, all with lances and swords ; parish of Broughton. The Laird of Romanno, present, weil horsit, with ane sword, with four horsemen, with lances and swords ; parish of Newlands. The Laird of Halton, absent himself; nine of his men present, with lances and swords ; in the parishes of Peebles and Edilston. John Lawder of Foulage, present, for Foulage and Melinsland, weil horsit, with ane jack, plet sleeves, and steil bonnet, sword and lance ; within the parish of Peebles. The Laird of Smithfield, absent himself; seven of his men present, horsit, with ane futman, all with swords and lances ; parish of Peebles. Jo. Horsbrugh, present, for the lands of Hutchinfield, weil horsit, with collet, buff coat, steil bonnet, with lance and sword ; parish of Peebles. The Laird of Langla-hill, present, weil horsit, with jack, steil bonnet, with lance and sword ; with three horsemen, with swords and lances ; within the parish of Broughton. David Murray of Halmyre, weil horsit, accompanied with thirty-nine horsemen, and ane buff coat, collet ; all the rest with lances and swords ; within the parishes of Newlands, Stobo, and Drummelzier. Jo. Thomson in Bonington, present, horsit, with lance and sword; parish of Peebles. Jo. Bullo in Bonington, present, horsit, with sword and lance ; parish of Peebles. Jo. Scot of Hundilshop, absent himself; six of his men present, horsit, with two futmen, all with lances and swords ; parish of Menner. James Scot of Cruickston, absent himself; two of his men present, futmen, with lances and swords ; parish of Peebles. The Laird of Menner, present ; weil horsit, accompanied with seven horsemen, all with swords and lances ; within the parish of Menner. William Burnet, elder of Barns, present, weil horsit, with a buff coat and steil bonnet, lance and sword ; accompanied with seven horsemen, with lances and swords, with ane futman with a lance ; within the parish of Menner. Robert Porteous, for Winkston, present, with a buff coat, a pair of pistols, and a rapier. The Laird of Dawick, present, weil horsit, with ane sword ; accom- panied with ane horseman, with a sword and a lance ; parish of Dawick. Robert Pringle of Chapelhill, present, weil horsit, with a lance, pistol, and sword ; and a futman with a lance. The Laird of Hartrie, absent himself; ten of his men present, horsit, with lances and swords ; parish of Kilbucho. CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 151 William Brown of Logan, present, weil horsit, with lance and sword ; and ane horseman with nathing ; parish of Glenholm. Walter Scott of Glenrath, absent himself; four of his men present, horsit, with lances and swords, and ane steil bonnet ; in the parish of Menner. Roland Scott, for his part of Deins-houses, present, horsit, with jack, steil bonnet, sword, and lance ; parish of Newlands. , for his part of Deins-houses, present, horsit; with jack, steil bonnet, sword, and lance ; parish of Newlands. William Tweedie, younger of Wrae, present, horsit, with ane horse- man, baith with lance and sword ; parish of Glenholm. Jo. Paterson, portioner of Broughton-sheills, present, weil horsit, with lance and sword ; parish of Broughton. The Laird of Glack, absent himself; three of his men present, horsit, with twa lances and swords ; parish of Menner. The Laird of Halkshaw, absent himself; four of his men present, with three lances and swords, horsit ; parish of Drummelzier. The Laird of Posso, sheriff-depute foresaid, with buff coat, steil bonnet, twa pistols and sword, accompanied with fourteen horsemen, with lances and swords. The names of the Barons, Gentlemen, and Freeholders who were absent themselves, with their men, frae the said Wapon-shawing : My Lord Borthwick, for his hail lands in Tweeddale, absent. James Stewart of Easter Horsbrugh. Roger Purves, for his part of Purveshill. James Tait, for his part thereof. The Laird of Riddel, for his part thereof. Jo. Bryson, for his part thereof. The Laird of Glen. The Laird of Boninton-Scot. The Laird of Covington, for his part of Bold. Sir John Murray of Philiphaugh, for his part thereof. The Laird of Traquair. The Lord of Garlics, for the lands of Ormistoun. The Laird of Pirn. The Laird of Henderston. The Lord of Morton, for his hail lands in Tweeddale. The Lord of St John, for his hail lands in Tweeddale. The Laird of Cardrona. Gilbert Chisholm, for his part of Aikerfield. The Laird of Earlshaugh. 152 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. My Lord Melros, for his hail lands of Tweeddale. The Lord of Halyrudhous, for his lands of Slipperfield. The Laird of Henderland.' The list of lairds and their retainers on this occasion is valuable as shewing who were the principal land-proprietors, and their relative power and importance, as likewise the method of arming and attending county musters in 1627. Other considerations are suggested. Neither at this nor at a later period do we hear of tenant-farmers, except as servants at the command of their masters. All had to turn out armed when ordered to do so, and compelled, as soldiers on horse or foot, to take part in military movements, which, doubtless, in some instances they secretly disliked. For this abject condition there was, however, no help. Lands were let only on the tenure of rendering military service in the cause espoused by the proprietors, and any shortcoming in this respect would have been visited with penalties which the local heritable jurisdictions would not have been slack in imposing. Constantly subject to these unpleasant demands, the tenantry likewise suffered from such fines as happened to be laid on their landlords for acts not agreeable to the higher authorities ; and the picture of their condition receives an additional shade from their poor style of living and means of subsistence. The sole exhilaration in the lot of the middle and lower classes in either town or country, was derived from a constant succession of public religious exercises, on which all were not only allowed but invited to pronounce a deliberate opinion. From numerous entries in the books of the Presbytery of Peebles, we learn that that venerable body took especial care to encourage the practice of criticising the sermons, life, and doctrine of ministers, such a usage being highly flattering to popular judgment, and calculated to establish a universal censorship of manners. 1627, Feb. 15. The Presbytery visited the parish kirk of Peebles, in which the inhabitants were convened, in order to inquire whether they were satisfied with the doctrine and ministrations of the parson. All declared they were well satisfied, and praised God for so good a minister ; but they were not pleased with Hector Cranston, the vicar, whose duty consisted in reading a portion of the Scriptures daily, CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 153 morning and evening. Cranston, who was old and infirm, was requested to resign. P. R. Same date. The minister of Glenholm complained of the wrong, abuse, and contempt done to the kirk of Glenholm, being the house of God, by Robert Crichton and others, in making ane tulzie in the said kirk after sermon, the congregation not being dismissed, by striking of ane gentleman with ane rung, whilk the said Robert had kept under his cloak, and thereafter be drawing of his sword. Crichton was ordered to be deprived of his office as elder, and all the parties were to be brought before the Privy Council. P. R. 1628, Feb. Thomas Brunton accused of abusing the minister of Traquair, minting at [threatening to draw] his whinger, and saying what he should get for not allowing his father to be buried in the kirkyard. James Little, Willinslee, and William Temple, accused of having an enchanted stone for their cattle. P. R. Sept The minister of Kilbucho, at the visitation to that kirk, complained of John Thriepland muttering and whispering to the congre- gation in time of sermon, and speaking back to the minister when he commanded silence ; also, of his following the minister to the place of Hartree same afternoon, with sword and whinger, and wanting the minister to fight. Thriepland is found guilty, and ordered to satisfy in the usual manner. P. It. 1628, July 15. Complaint made by Patrick Bullo, metster [measurer] and burgess of Peebles ; Mr John Bennet, minister at Kirkurd ; Mr John Hay, persoun of Stobo ; and Mr John Hamilton, minister at Linton, to the effect that Bullo had been employed, by an order from the Archbishop of Glasgow, to measure ' some aikers of land ' at Linton, for a glebe to the minister ; and that, while so occupied, John Tweedie in Linton, and a number of accomplices, threatened ' to take his lyffe if he desisted not ;' Tweedie also ' strake him in sundrie pairts of his bodie, tooke him by the shoulder, and violentlie flang him over ane high and stey brae, whairthrow he has so bruised him that he is not able to exercie his lawfull and ordinarie service ; and thairafter, in ane imperious and boisterous maner, commanded the complenairs to goe away, for they sould not gett leave to mett anie land thair.' Defender assoilzied, for want of proof. P. C. R. 1628, July 29. David Murray of Halmyre and others complain that they have been charged ' to find caution for the indempnitie ' of Hunter of Polmood and others, their wives, bairns, tenants, and servants ; the said caution being excessive, and beyond what the law allows. Penalty for Murray modified from ^1000 to ^500, and for the other com- plainers from ^500 to ;ioo. [This was seemingly a case of obligation to keep the peace.] P. C. R. 154 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. We now arrive at the finale of the Tweedies, who, according to an old-established method of ruination in other quarters besides Peeblesshire, had been living beyond their means, and at length, through debts and mortgages, were obliged to relinquish their possessions. With an inheritance shorn of its splendour, James Tweedie, the last of his name in Drummelzier, is in 1628 found a broken-down man in the tolbooth of Edinburgh, to which he had been consigned by his cousin and remorseless creditor, John Lord Hay of Yester, into whose family the lands of Drummelzier had now passed. We shall allow the last of a race that had tormented the county for centuries, to tell his own sorrowful tale. 1628, Aug. 7. James Tuedie of Drummelzier complains to the Lords of the Privy Council ' that he has beene deteaned in ward within the tolbuith of Edinburgh five yeares and foure months bygane, at the instance of John Lord Hay of Yester, his cousine-germane, both in his own name and under colour and pretext of other men's names. Lykeas, he has not onlie unnaturallie deteaned the said compleaner in wofull captivitie, but apprysed his lands and heretage with the legal reversioun of the same, and intromettit with the whole rents thairof, whilk will far surmount onie burden or debt he can lay to the compleaner's charge ; and yet to kythe his causeless inimitie, he has not onlie stopped the decreit of libertie readie to have beene pronounced be the Lords of Sessioun, mynding thairby to appropriat unto himselffe be forged pleyes [pleas] his haill estait and rents, but also to deteane the compleaner's persoun in waird till his dying day ; whairas he haveing all that belongs unto the compleaner, he has nothing to susteane himselffe, but is lyke to starve unlesse the goodman of the tolbuith supplied his necessair wants.' It being decerned that Lord Yester shall either release Drummelzier, or allow him a weekly maintenance, to be fixed by the Lords, he consents to his release. P. C. R. [Exit Tweedie.] About this time, the Presbytery of Peebles seems to have been much engaged in the examination of witches, but no details are given. The Privy Council is similarly occupied. CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 155 Sept. 27. Alexander Veitch in Horsburgh receives warrant to search for and apprehend Katherine Young, spouse to Alexander Peacoke, suspect and delate guiltie of the crime of witchcraft, and to take evidence to that effect to be laid before the Council. P. C. JR. 1629, April. Certain parties who had attacked the minister of Dawick with rungs and -batons, having confessed their crime, were ordered to stand on the mercat-cross of Peebles, on Tyesday neist, being the mercat-day, with papers on their breasts setting forth their crime ; besides this, they were ordained to stand in sackcloth at the kirk-doors of Peebles, Kirkurd, Drummelzier, and Stobo. P. R. The inhabitants of Peebles complain to the Presbytery as to the want of week-day sermon. The matter being referred to the parson, he agrees to accede to the wishes of his flock by giving them a sermon daily ; and as the kirk is inconveniently situated, being outside the town, the chapel [formerly the chapel of Our Lady, west end of High Street] is ordered to be repaired and made suitable for the meetings being held there. The old pulpit to be removed from the kirk to the chapel, and a new one to be put in its place. P. R. 1629. Complaint against John Dunlop, school-doctor in Peebles, for making ane riot in the kirk on 5th July last, and encroaching on the reader's function and place without lawful calling thereto, and making a great uproar. He was ordered to be cited. [This man appears to have been appointed assistant-reader by Mr Hector Cranston, an arrangement not allowed by the Presbytery.] P. R. Mr Andrew Watson admitted vicar of Peebles in the Cross Kirk, in presence of a great number of the parishioners. He was instituted in the usual form, the Holy Bible being given to him, and he enjoined to be faithful in his function. John Dunlop was prohibited from exercising the office of reader, and ordered to satisfy for his riot. P. R. July 21. The king appoints William, Earl of Menteith, President of the Council, Mr Thomas Henderson of Charteris, and Sir John Scott of Scottstarvit, two of the senators of the College of Justice, to hold a court at Peebles for the sheriffdom, on Tuesday, 27th of October, with continuation of days. P. C. R. 1631, June 3. A case is this day brought before the Justiciary Court at Edinburgh, at the instance of Alexander Muir and David Plenderleith, bailies, and Thomas Tweedie, treasurer of the burgh of Peebles, with concurrence of His Majesty's Advocate. The following notes of the case are given in the Books of Adjournal : ' John Ker in Edderstoune is 156 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. indicted for the slaughter of John Chalmer, common town-herd of Peebles. Alleged for the pannel, that the dittay is not relevant against him, because it bears that the pannel's brother gave him a stroak with a kent [stout walking-stick], of which the defunct is said to have dyed, so that it does not bear that the pannel did either invade or strike the defunct. Answer : The dittay bears that the pannel as a cause of the quarrel beat the defunct's son, and assisted his brother in pursuing the defunct with a kent in his hand, the pannel and his brother having lain darnal and in secret for his slaughter, as is lybelled. The justice finds the dittay relevant, and repels the allegations, and remits.' We do not see what was the ultimate decision on the case. For several days in succession, it is adjourned for trial, the last notice taken of it being, that ' it is remitted to this day aucht days.' At this period, as already stated, the court was much overtasked in trying persons accused of witchcraft ; the case immediately preceding that of Ker is one in which a man is found guilty of being * a warlock,' and adjudged to ' be worryit [strangled], and then burnt.' 1631, Dec. 13. Anent letters raised at the instance of Archibald Johnestoun, servitour to Wilknie Johnestoune of Halmyre, merchant burges of Edinburgh, makand mention, That whereupon the day of November last, the said Archibald being in the dwelling-house of , in Lyntoun, doing his lawfull affaires, Patrick Murray, indweller in Edinburgh, without any offence done to him, drew ane long whinger, and gave him ane deepe and deidlie straike therewith in the wambe, to the great effusion of his blood and perill of his lyfe. The defender not appearing to answer the charge, is denounced rebel, and put to the horn. P. C. R. 1632, May. John Pringle in Peebles accused of burning the New Testament at the waking of a corpse. P. JR. Three notable families in the county received an accession of dignity and importance in the reign of Charles I. Sir John Stewart of Traquair, after being raised to the peerage as Lord Stewart of Traquair in 1628, became Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, and in 1633, was created Earl of Traquair, Lord Linton, and Caberston. A few years later, Sir Gideon Murray, third son of Andrew Murray of Blackbarony, acquiring the property of Elibank in Selkirkshire, his son Patrick, who had CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 157 been an eminent lawyer and statesman in the reign of James VI., was advanced to the peerage by the title of Lord Elibank in 1643 in which Elibank branch, the Murrays of Blackbarony ultimately merged. The third family of honourable lineage which rose in dignity was that of the Hays, Lords Yester. John, the eighth lord, was created Earl of Tweeddale in 1646 dying in 1654, he was succeeded by his son John, who, as second earl, figured as an advocate of moderate measures through the most Fig. 25. Neidpath Castle, eastern aspect troublous period of Scottish history, was signalised as an improver, and in acknowledgment of his valuable services, was created Marquis of Tweeddale in 1694. As repeatedly mentioned, the Hays of Yester inhabited the castle of Neidpath, which had been enlarged and rendered a fitting baronial residence in the early part of the fifteenth century. At the accession of John, the eighth lord, to the earldom, this ancient fortalice had the imposing appearance which it retains in its present partially decayed condition, as represented in the annexed cut. Turning from the county to the burgh, we find that, at this 158 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. period, tenacious of its rights of common, so valuable for the pasturing of cattle and the digging of peat for fuel, it became involved in a lengthened dispute with Scot of Hundleshope respecting a portion of land connected with Caidmuir. In the present day, a difference of this nature would be adjusted by a litigation before a competent court, but in the seventeenth century, neither bailies nor burgesses had sufficient temper and patience for so placid a procedure, and went straight to their purpose by force of arms and numbers. The incidents con- nected with the contest throw so much light on the irregular manners of the time, that we give them entire as they are reported in the books of the Privy Council. 1635, July 14. John Scot of Hundleshope, and John and James Dickson, his servants, state that, although the bearing of hacquebuts and pistolets, and the convocation of the lieges in arms, be prohibited by law, 'on the i8th of June last the provost and bailies of Peebles, along with others their accomplices, to the number of fourscore persons, armed with swords, staves, and other weapons, and hacquebuts and pistolets, came to that part of the lands of Halyeards and Mylntoune thairof callit the Coupe Dyke, quhilk is ane proper part of the baronie of Hundilshop, per- taining heratablie to the said John Scot, and there they biggit ane house of 30 foote of lenthe, and howbeat the compleaner did legallie and civillie interrupt thame, yet they remained upon the lands three dayes and nights, and upon the thrid day of July instant, Thomas Patersone and David Plenderleith, baillies of Peebles, John Geddes, officer there, with others in maner fore- said, came to that part of the compleaners lands of Mylntoune called the Bordlandmure, where the said John and James Dicksone were casting divetts, drew their swords, and wounded James Dicksone in the hand to the effusion of his blood, and gave him divers straiks on other parts of his bodie.' P. C. R. Such was Scot's case, and it is a sufficiently strange one a clamorous and armed mob of fourscore persons, headed by the magistrates of Peebles, coming a distance of several miles to maintain some claim of property, building a small house, CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 159 remaining on the spot three days, and finally assaulting Scot's servants to the effusion of their blood. Scot, however, failed to prove his charge of illegally carrying hagbuts and pistols, such being denied on oath by Williamson, the provost ; and the mere tumult does not appear to have been visited with punish- ment. The judge ordinary is to settle the matter in dispute, each party giving caution to keep the peace, ' the burgh of Peebles under the paine of thrie thousand merks, and John Scot and Mr William Burnet, son to John Burnet of Barns, either of thame ane thousand merks.' But the case did not end here. Immediately following, the burgh of Peebles brings forward a charge of rioting and assault per contra. The provost sets forth, ' that the burgh being heratablie infeft in the lands of Caidmuir, and in peaceable possession thairof, and having latelie biggit ane house of stane, nane having made interruption to them, yet it is of truth that upon the 2 1 day of June last, John Scot of Hundleshop assembled together the persons underwritten William Scot his brother naturall, William Scot his uncle, Mr William Burnet, sone to Barns, John Burnet, also his sone, John, Robert, Thomas, and James Dickson in Mylntoune, James Anderson there, Walter Yong there, James Notman, smith, Robert Ireland, James Burnet, son to Woodhouse, James Burnet in Boghouse, Andro Hunter in Manner, James Lawson, Malcolm Phillip, tailzdour, James Mattheson, John Watson, John Lowis, William Russell, and William Rankane, myller, with others, with jacks, steil bonnets, speares, lances, Jedwort staves, forks, swords, whingers, axes, picks, mattocks, gavelocks, and with hacquebuts and pistolets prohibit to be worne, came under cloud of night to the said hous, and there, with speares and lances, ran John Robin and Charles Cleg, the compleaners servants, to the ground with monie blae and blood ie straiks, and had not failed to take their lyves were it not by the helpe of some neichbours they were rescued ; and immediately thairafter clam to the heid of the hous, tirled [unroofed] and kust doune the same to the ground with their picks and mattocks, and cuttit and destroyed the haill timber 160 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIUE. with the doores and windowis, and left not sa much as ane stane standing, nor yet ane piece of timber of thrie foot length.' The parties concerned being present, the Lords decern as in the preceding case, assoilzing the defenders on their oath by consent of complainers ; each party to find security to the other, namely, the burgh of Peebles under a penalty of three thousand merks, and John Scot and Mr William Burnet each a thousand merks. P. C. R. 1636, June 7. James Law, one of the keepers of His Majesty's signet, and heritable proprietor of the Temple-land of Kirkurd, complains that whereas he has been in peaceable possession 'until latelie, when Thomas Murray, his tenant, having entered on the building of ane hous in April last, Thomas Veitche in Lockhurd came to the compleaners saids lands, threatened the said tenant and Robert Broune, workman, who was bigging the hous, forced him to leive his worke, thairafter violentlie pulled doune the thacke and a great part of the timber and walls of the said hous ;' and came afterwards and demolished the house utterly, so that ' the poore tenente will be forced to ly in the fields.' The persons concerned being present, the Lords remit the matter ' anent the right of ground quhairupon the said house was built, to be pursewed before the judge ordinarie, and in the meantyme desired the parties to nominal eache some sufficient man ' to decide as to where the house may be built. Accordingly, the parties nominated Robert Tweedie in Bordland, and James Geddes of Rachan, to whom the Lords gave the requisite powers. P. C. R. In the list of commissioners from the shires who had signed the Confession of Faith and. Covenant of 1638, appears for ' Peebles James Williamson, Provost,' the same who gallantly led the crusade against Hundleshope three years previously. In 1640, the Presbytery of Peebles had several cases of witch- craft under consideration. On one occasion, the members met at the kirk of Glenholm, for the purpose of trying witches ; Gilbert Robisone, Isabel Cuthbertson, Lillias Bertram, and Malie Macwatt, from the parish of Culter, were brought forward. Among other things asked, it was inquired if they had ever had any acquaintance with one Graham, a witch who had been burned at Peebles. The main charge against them seems to have been, telling people to take their children to a CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. l6l south-running stream to be cured when they were ill. Gilbert Robisone was believed to be a noted warlock, and there are frequent references to him. In April 1641, he is spoken of as being in ward, ' suspect of witchcraft ;' and the ministers of Broughton, Glenholm, and Drummelzier are appointed to see what is laid to his charge, and to intimate their intention of doing so from their pulpits. P. R. 1642, Feb. 3. ' Mr Andrew Watson, vicar of Peebles,' complains to the Privy Council that, on a certain day of May last, James William- sone, younger, in Peebles, who had often vowed to 'tirle the said minister's hous above his head, came airlie in the morning before day- light to his said dwelling-hous, clam up to the top thereof, and with a graip kuist down a great part of the thack and divetts of the said hous ; and upon the day of Junii thairafter, he, understanding that the complainer was at St Andrews, came, with John Mure in Peebles, to the said hous and chamber, so that when the complainer returned, all the utensiles and plenishing of his hous were spoyled with rayne, and the hous made uninhabitable ; and afterwards, in October, they came under cloud and silence of night, entered the hous by a back-door, and having ascended the stair, rave up the daills of the floor, so that, but for the providence of God, the complainer had fallen doun betwix the head of the tumpyck and his chamber doore, and been killed, which was thair intention.' Watson not having brought any proof of his charge, the case is referred to ' the oath of veritie ' of Williamsone, who denies the whole affair. He is therefore acquitted along with Mure, who was but a minor; and as they had been kept waiting in Edinburgh for five days, Watson is ordered to pay to each of them ten merks. P. C. ft. In 1645, Scotland was visited by the plague, which, reaching Peeblesshire, caused much consternation, as is noticed from the kirk-session records such as 'no meeting of the congregation for fear of the pestilence.' While alarmed by the spread of this mysterious disorder, the country fell into a paroxysm of appre- hension on account of the victories gained in the royal cause by James Graham, Marquis of Montrose. In speaking of the people of Peeblesshire, Dr Pennecuik says : ' They are of so loyal and peaceable dispositions, that they have seldom or never appeared in arms against their lawful sovereign, nor were there amongst that great number twelve persons from Tweeddale at the K 1 62 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. insurrection of Rullion Green or Bothwell Bridge. Of their loyalty they gave sufficient testimony at the fight of Philip- haugh, where several of them were killed by David Leslie's army, and others, the most eminent of their gentry, taken prisoners.' This eulogium is scarcely borne out by facts ; to judge from the kirk-session records in the county, the cause for which Montrose was in arms was anything but popular. The explanation of the apparent discrepancy is, that while the lairds generally, with the militia, over whom they exercised control, adhered to royalty, the clergy and common people were on the side of the Covenant. Routed at Philiphaugh, September 13, 1645, the Marquis of Montrose fled on horseback across the high hill, Minchmoor, to Traquair, and so on to Peebles, whence he proceeded to rally fresh forces in the north. The conduct of the Earl of Traquair on this occasion has been justly matter of remark. He is alleged to have sent his son, Lord Linton, with a troop of horse, to join Montrose the day before the battle, but withdrew them during the night ; and also, that when Montrose in his flight, accom- panied by a few followers, arrived at Traquair House, and sent a friend to acquaint the earl and his son with his presence, both denied themselves a fact singularly illustrative of weak- ness of character. At least two of the Tweeddale gentry, in obedience to the kirk, performed penance for their royalist proclivities. 1646. George Tait of Pirn, and others, publicly satisfied on the stool of repentance for complying with the rebellion. K. S. R., Innerleithen. Dec. 27. The Laird of Hawkshaw did make his satisfaction for complying with James Graham. K. S. R., Tweedsmuir. On the final discomfiture of Montrose, every parish in the county seems to have expressed its thank- fulness. 1650, May 12. Thanksgiving for the victory gained by God's blessing over that excommunicated traitor, James Graham. K. S. R., Tweedsmuir. In the records of Drummelzier, Inner- leithen, and other parishes, there are similar intimations. No sooner was the country free from the terror of Montrose, CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM AND MARY. 163 than it fell into greater trouble on account of the invasion of Cromwell, and his victory over the ultra-Presbyterian forces at Dunbar, September 3, 1650. Two years before, under the injunctions of an act of parliament, ' for putting the kingdom in ane posture of defence,' a committee of war was named for Peeblesshire, embracing the whole gentry in the county ; but all efforts of this kind were unavailing. Lord Yester, son of the Earl of Tweeddale, fortified Neidpath Castle against a party of Cromwell's troops sent to capture it, and who, during their stay in Peebles, are said to have stabled their horses in the church of St Andrew. The forces of Lord Yester are understood to have held out with an extraordinary degree of energy and courage against their besiegers ; and but for the comparative weakness of the old peel assailable with cannon from the southern side of the river the castle might not perhaps have been rendered up so soon as it was. The name of the com- mander deputed by Cromwell to attack Neidpath is not mentioned in any contemporary letter or chronicle ; but we may presume with tolerable confidence that the capture was effected by Major-general Lambert, in the latter part of December 1650, as we learn that Cromwell at that time ordered him, with his party, consisting of 3000 horse, to march from Peebles to Lanarkshire, in order to meet the Independent west-country army of 5000 men under Colonel Ker, whom Lambert, on the 1st of December, overthrew with great slaughter. There must, however, have been a party of English troops at Peebles after this date, as Cromwell, on the 2$th December, addresses a letter to ' Colonel Francis Hacker,' of which we present a copy. 1 ' For Col. FRANCIS HACKER, att Pebles or else where, Thiese SIR I have the best consideration I can for the praesent in this businesse, and although I believe Capt. Hubbert is a worthy man, and heere soe much, yett as the case stands, I cannott, with satisfaction to my selffe and some others, revoake the commission I had given to Capt 1 From Ellis's Original Letters Illustrative of English History, second series, voL lii. p. 365 (MS. Lansd., Brit. Mus. 1236, art. 99, Grig.). 1 64 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Empson, without offence to them, and reflection upon my owne judge- ment. I pray lett Capt. Hubbert knowe I shall not bee unmindefull of him, and that noe disrespect is intended to him. But, indeed, I was not satisfied with your last speech to mee about Empson, that he was a better prsecher than a fighter or souldier, or words to that effect. Truly I thinke Hee that prayes and prseches best will fight best. I know nothing will give like courage and confidence as the knowledge of God in Christ will, and I blesse God to see any in this Armye able and willinge to impart the knowledge they have for the good of others. And I expect itt bee encouraged by all Chiefe Officers in this Armye especially : and I hope you will doe soe. I pray receave Capt. Empson lovinglye. I dare assure you hee is a good man and a good officer. I would wee had noe worse. I rest your lovinge friend, O. CROMWELL. Dec. 25, 1650.' Capturing Neidpath, and taking possession of the ancient castle of Peebles, there was no other military operation to be effected in the county, for the gentry generally submitted, and apart from them as leaders, the people could have made no effective stand. That the Usurpation was not at the outset unaccompanied with some turmoil and panic, is seen from several kirk-session records. 1650, Nov. IO. Because of the English putting garrisons in the country, there was no meeting in the kirk till the 2Qth December, all which time the minister was in a fleeing condition. 1651, Feb. No session at this time, because the enemy were going up and down. Aug. 3. No sermon because the Scots army marching up Tweed had driven away most part of the sheep and the cattle, and the people were busied in following their goods, in giving meat to the soldiers, and in keeping their houses from strangers. K, S. R., Drummelzier. 1651, March 23. No meeting this day for fear of the enemy. 3e first round. 1699. Elspeth Gall summoned for going up the Old Town on Sunday with a burden on her back. Aug. 13. The minister informed the session that , writer [the name is given], had been drunk on Thursday last, and conducted himself in an abusive manner. The delinquent being summoned, confessed his fault, and promised amendment with all humility. K. S. R., Peebles. 1698. Nov. The elders, along with the kirk-officer, are appointed to scour the town for vaguers on the Lord's Day. Any one found drinking in an alehouse after 9 P.M., to be censured. K. S. 1?., Broughton. 1704. The people warned against Penny-Weddings, because of the abuses they lead to. K, S. R., Glenholm. 1694. Mary Mitchel, residing in Bold, brought before the session on the accusation of having burnt her Bible, which she confesses having done in a freak, and is ordered to stand several times on the stool of repentance. Mary, who seems to have been an indifferent character, declares she does not care how often she makes her appearance before the congregation ; she stands three times, the parish having borrowed the Peebles sackcloth for the purpose. 1701. The minister warns the people against drinking in change-houses, and giving harbourage to vagabond carlines who had come into the parish. 1736. A man -is dilated for profaning the Lord's Day, by graithing [harnessing] his horse. K. S. R., Traquair. So numerous are the entries of this kind in the parish records in the early part of the eighteenth century, that evidently the kirk-sessions, reinvigorated by the recent religious changes, had attained to something like the power which they possessed during the Cromwellian era. At this period, the convention of royal burghs was a more powerful body than it is at present ; for besides forming a bond of union for mutual assistance and protection, it exercised a considerable control over the proceedings of the burghs, separately. An example of this species of supervision occurs in THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 2I/ regard to Peebles in 1692. The magistrates and town-clerk appeared by summons before two commissioners appointed to make certain inquiries respecting the financial condition of the burgh, its trade, and other matters. From the replies which were made, we gather the following particulars. The common good or general revenue of Peebles amounts on an average of the last five years to ^1722, 6s. Scots money ; and the debt due by the town by bonds amounts to ^6706, i2S, &d., money afore- said. The town has only two mortifications, one of 200 merks, and the other of 100 merks; the annual produce of these being paid to the schoolmaster for maintaining poor scholars at the grammar-school, and also for keeping Tweed bridge in repair. The official expenses of the burgh amount to 1?, 13^. 4^. Scots, annually. The burgh has no foreign trade, and ' the inland trade is very mean and inconsiderable ; ' the inhabitants 'vend and consume about three hogsheads yearly of French wines, and about half .a tun of sack and brandy; and their consumption of malt will extend to about six or seven hundred bolls yearly.' ' The burgh pays 100 merks yearly out of the common good to the minister ; and pays to the schoolmaster, precentor, and all other public servants out of the common good the sum of ^445 Scots.' * All their public works are upholden out of the common good, and they are brought to much expenses yearly in maintaining five bridges, one whereof hath five arches over Tweed ; ' their debt, however, continues much as has been stated. Their houses are mostly inhabited by their respective heritors, who pay no town tax ; all the other houses will not amount to above ^100 yearly, and 'they have no stranger inhabitants amongst them.' C. JR. The commissioners made no inquiry concerning the extensive commons which had been gifted to the town, and no notice is taken of them. On the 7th of July 1696, the convention had under consideration a petition from the town-council of Peebles, representing that they and their predecessors have had the privilege 'to seize all light weights, short ell-wands, and other insufficient goods in all the fairs and public mercats within the shire of Teviotdale ; yet, of late they were impeded by the Earl of Traquair.' The convention recommended the burghs of Cupar, Dumbarton, and Lochmaben to commune with Lord Traquair anent the matter, and to use their utmost endeavour to accommodate the same, and report to next convention. C. R. Next year, we see no entry in the books of the convention on the above weighty subject, but notice is taken of a petition from Peebles concerning its bridges, tolbooth, and schoolhouse, which are represented 2l8 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. to be in need of repair, and aid is required for the purpose. A com- mittee being appointed to visit the burgh, brings up its report respecting the state of these buildings, in 1698. They are said to be in a bad condition, and the convention orders its agent to make payment to the burgh of Peebles 'of the soume of 400 merks Scots money, to be employed towards repairing the said bridges, tolbooth, and schoolhouse, at the sight and advice of the burghs of Jedburgh, Selkirk, and Lauder.' In the same convention, several other burghs received similar grants for like purposes. C. R. At this and a later period, the annual contribu- tion of Peebles to the funds of the convention was fixed at gs. C. R. At the Union, the records of the Privy Council of Scotland are closed, and no longer can we look for assistance to these valuable chronicles of domestic events. Unfortunately, no aid can be immediately obtained from the records of the burgh, for they are missing from 1678 till 1714, and we are accordingly without the means of knowing what occurred in Peebles at the passing of the Act of Union, which, though constituting the basis of the prosperity now universally enjoyed, was unpopular throughout the country. The benefits of this great measure were, however, to be remote, while certain damages it was to inflict were immediate. Hitherto, Peebles, like other towns, had been dignified by mansions forming the winter residence of county gentry ; the more conspicuous of these ' lodgings/ as they were termed, being occupied by the Earls of March, the Naesmyths of Posso, and the Williamsons of Cardrona, of which last edifice we offer a representation on next page. The Union, by drawing families of rank to London, and opening up prospects of foreign employment, was therefore destructive of the old-fashioned system of living in country towns, which were now to be left chiefly to the tradesmen and artisans required by the neighbourhood. Yet, it may be doubted if the Union was any more than an accidental aggravation of a prevailing tendency. The rural districts were beginning in a small way to be improved, and although the country at large was overrun with beggars and vagrants, there were no longer either border forays or deadly family feuds to deter the more timid class of proprietors from building houses THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 219 and living habitually on their estates. With Cromwell, the fighting-times had expired, for all that had since taken place were but insurrectionary tumults, confined mainly to the south- western shires, and even these disturbances were allayed by the Revolution. It would not be strange if the people of Peebles looked with apprehension to any legislative measure which was likely to stimulate the wish to desert the old burgh. The town had been in its palmiest state of enjoyment shortly after the Restoration. There were frequent balls and assemblies, graced by the aristocracy of the county. The thatched dwellings of a past era were giving Fig. 27. Town-mansion of Williamson of Cardrona, now an Inn. way to slated houses, built with a degree of taste that puts to shame the tame unornamented edifices of the eighteenth century. Until now, Peebles had the honour of sending a commissioner to the Scottish parliament, instead of which it was to be reduced to the position of joining with Lanark, Linlithgow, and Selkirk in naming a representative to the House of Commons ; while the shire was to have one member in place of two. We can fancy that these deteriorations of ancient privileges were viewed with as little complacency as the general scheme of the Union ; though, through the influence of the Duke of Queens- berry, the measure probably excited no outward demonstrations 220 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of hostility. A key to the state of popular feeling on the subject may perhaps be found in the votes of the town representative. To the last Scottish parliament, sitting at Edinburgh, 1706-7, the commissioner for the burgh was Archibald Shiels, who consistently voted throughout against all the articles of the treaty of Union, and against the measure as a whole. The commissioners for the shire were William Morrison of Preston- grange, and Alexander Horsburgh of that Ilk, who voted for nearly all the articles, and also for the passing of the act. To the first parliament of Great Britain, assembled at Westminster, the district of burghs to which Peebles belonged sent Mungo Graham of Gorthy as representative, while at the same time the county deputed William Morrison of Prestongrange, one of its former members. The accession of the Hanover family in 1714 was received with so much placidity in Peeblesshire, that we hear of only one dissentient, Mr William Russell, minister of Stobo. Russell's history has some droll features. Son of the Laird of Kingseat, he, in early life, figures as a member of the troop of horse convened in Tweeddale by royal authority, 1685, to suppress rebellion in the west a corps which, if we are to believe the panegyric of Pennecuik, performed prodigies of valour, being 4 All of them proof 'gainst desperate alarms, Train'd up by old Dalyell in feats of arms. ***#* Young Kingseat was a Tory trooper then, Now Stobo stipend makes him Whig again. ' Not altogether a Whig, as is shewn by the Presbytery Records ; for though sobered down and transformed into a minister, Rus- sell's old cavalier spirit gets roused on being required to pray for ' His Majesty, King George.' Without absolutely appearing dis- loyal, he contrived for some years to pray concerning the king in a shuffling fashion, which passed for what the law demanded ; but the trick being at length discovered, he was summoned before the Presbytery to explain his very extraordinary conduct. In answer to the charge, Russell said that he always prayed for King THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 221 George, and that though it had not been in express words, it was in such a way that his congregation could not fail to under- stand that King George was meant. This explanation being considered unsatisfactory, he was suspended for two months. Mr Stephen Paton having gone to Stobo, in obedience to an order of the Synod, to intimate the deposition, he was encountered by a mob of women, who told him that no one should preach there but their minister. There now ensues a succession of efforts on the part of the Presbytery to bring the enraged parishioners to reason, but without avail. The church-door is kept locked, the bell cannot be rung, and ministers deputed to preach can do so only in the churchyard. At last, when things are at the worst, the old trooper discreetly relents, comes under some sort of obedience, prays distinctly for King George, and is repon.e.$, which makes everything end comfortably. '. ;:-,; ,",.,,. ,hoorl Some events connected with the burgh which occurred ; afteY this period, may be grouped together as follows, along with casual remarks. 1725. This year, the burgh purchased Frank's Croft, a pretty piece of ground situated on a height overlooking the Tweed, so called, probably, from having at one time belonged to John Frank, town-treasurer^ The purchase-money was two thousand merks [^in, 2$. $J.. sterling], rrt- B. R. In making this desirable acquisition, Peebles must have, improved somewhat since 1713, when the Convention of Royal Burghs , granted it 'ane hundred pounds Scots money, of present supply, in respect of the low condition of the said burgh.' C. R. '.:,iJi uii.i :,il) The town continues to be frequented and troubled by gipsies, beggars, and vagabonds of all sorts; and there is a fresh attempt to get rjd.iOf them. 1728, Jan. 14. The magistrates and council, considering, tijat several of the heritors and inhabitants within this burgh have, of late years, contrair to several acts of council, taken upon them to sett houses, and given settled residence to several cripples, sturdy beggars, and other vagrants, persons who can give no account of themselves; some of which have taken upon them to make use of counterfeit testimonials from the ministers and elders of this paroch ; and others of them going together without legal marriage, living promiscuously, and thereby giving bad examples in this place ; neither can they give any reasonable account of their way of living, but by villainy and oppression in the countries where they travel. Wherefore, they strictly prohibit and 222 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. discharge any of the heritors or inhabitants within this burgh to sett any houses hereafter to any vagrant people, under the pain of ten pounds Scots, toties quoties [for each offence] ; and they declare that all who have formerly sett shall be punished, conform to the said acts of council, without mitigation ; and ordains thir presents to be intimate by tuck of drum, that none may pretend ignorance. B, R. This edict necessarily proved unavailing. In proportion as houses were deserted by a respectable class of inhabitants, there was more accommodation for paupers a result painfully observable in all Scottish towns, where the buildings, from their extreme durability, long outlast their original purpose, and, presenting a ready and loathsome harbourage, obviously encourage the growth of an abject and dangerous population. 1728, Nov. 19. The magistrates and council, considering that Mar- garet Wilson was banished this burgh for stealing clothes from her mother and others, and selling them for drink, and that she has returned, using the same bad practices, and last Sabbath was guilty of drunken- ness, cursing and abusing her mother, which is hurtful to the neighbour- hood, and not to be suffered ; wherefore they banish her this burgh in time coming, and discharge her to be seen therein hereafter, certifying her if she be, she will be scourged and brunt [branded with a hot iron]. B. R. This practice of banishing from the town proved an exceedingly unwise method of punishment, for it only caused the offenders to seek refuge in other towns, from which being expelled in turn, they at length became reckless and incorrigible malefactors. We see by the records of several parishes, that worthless characters, who had from time to time been banished from Peebles, are ordered to be ' expelled the bounds.' The venerable fallacy of ' keeping everything to ourselves,' continues to be cherished as a rule of trade. 1726, May 2. The council discharge the inhabitants to sell any muck except to burgesses, and no one is on any account to sell the same to country people, to the great prejudice of the people of the town. B. R, Pride is still taken in the commons. 1727, May 22. The haill burgesses and inhabitants, horse and foot, are ordained to attend the magistrates and council on the first Monday of June in their best equipages, for riding the commonties of Eshiels, Glentress, and Hamiltone. B. R. An immense gathering of the lieges takes place accordingly on the day named, the provost and magistrates on horseback in front, preceded by the town-piper, who does his best on the occasion. Hitherto, the inhabitants had depended for water on pump-wells, or the streams which environed the town, and they could scarcely fail to be flattered with the announcement, that a gentleman in Selkirkshire took so warm an interest in their affairs, that he proposed to be at the THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 223 cost of leading in water for a public fountain. 1728, Nov. 28. John Murray of Philiphaugh, Esq., out of regard, love, and favour for Peebles, gives the sum of a hundred pounds sterling money, for bringing in the water of St Mungo's Well to the burgh. B. R. 1729, June 16. The magistrates and council agree with John Scott, plumber in Edinburgh, to bring in the water of St Mungo's Well in pipes to a part of the burgh conveniently situated for a public well. B. R. The place pitched on was in the High Street, opposite the town-mansion of the Earl of March, and the fountain here established, deriving its name from the original, on the face of the Venlaw, was long known as St Mungo's Well. Why Murray of Philiphaugh should have taken such an extreme interest in Peebles, may seem surprising. Perhaps the circumstance is explained by the fact, that he had lately been appointed member for the district of burghs, and looked forward to being reappointed, which he was in I754- Of the prizes to be run for at the Beltane festival, there are numerous entries in the town's books. In 1728, the first plate to be run for is to be 'a china bowl, value fifteen guineas;' and the second 'a quaigh, or drinking-cup, value four guineas.' In 1731, the first prize is to be a piece of silver plate, value fifteen pounds sterling ; the second prize, a plate worth five pounds both to be run for in heats, and no horses to be debarred. B. R, The entries, of which these are specimens, are all followed with an order ' to advertise the plates timeously in the Edin- burgh prints.' 1750, June 30. The gentlemen of the county having agreed to give a purse of thirty guineas to be run for on the first week of August, the town resolves to give a purse of fifteen guineas to be run for at the same time.' B. R. The town gets out of temper about the scandalous state of the church- yard. 1733, Sept 8. The magistrates and council, considering the great expense the town and inhabitants had been at in building a stone and lime dyke round the old church-yard, for defending their monuments upon their dead ; and that Mr John Hay, minister, had this summer put his horses in the said church-yard, whereby several of their monu- ments are wronged. Wherefore, the council do discharge the said Mr John Hay to put any of his horses, kine, or sheep in their burial- place hereafter, or any other persons whatsoever, under the penalty of ten pounds Scots ; and in the meantime allow him to cut or shear the grass for the use of his beasts. And the council grants warrant to the treasurer to employ tradesmen to repair and mend the church-yard yett and dyke, and to snedd the young trees growing therein. B. R. 1734, May 13. The council appoint Provost Gibson to be their commissioner in electing a member of parliament for the district of burghs, and recommend him to vote for the Honourable James 224 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Carmichael, son to the Earl of Hyndford. 1735, Sept. 10. The provost reported to the council that the Honourable James Carmichael was duly elected member, and that, in token of his gratitude and thankfulness for the favour shewn and done him, and as a mark of his kindness and regard, he had delivered into the hands of the provost a handsome compliment and donation of one hundred and fifty pounds sterling for the use of the burgh of Peebles; whereupon all with one voice declared that the said donation should be employed in paying the town debts. B.R 1735, Aug. 5. Proposals are made to the council by Alexander Sheriff for Charles Cockburn, advocate, as to the establishing of a woollen manu- factory in Peebles. The yarn proposed is to be very coarse and round, near the double of covering yarn. And Mr Sheriff is content for a trial to give good, careful, diligent spinsters four shillings Scots [4^. sterling] per day, from six in the morning till eight at night ; and he is content to give spinsters who are not so able (now when harvest is approaching, and women will be scarce) what the farmers shall think fit, conform to their work. Secondly, after trial, Mr Sheriff is content when it shall be sufficiently known what a stone of this wool may be spun for, to give out stones of wool to their own houses, both to strong and weak, and take a sufficient time for it ; but no time is to be lost. Mr Sheriff is so well satisfied with the situation of this place, that he inclines rather to sett up here than in any other, if he can be near as well served and encou- raged. The council having heard the above proposals read, they declare they are well satisfied and pleased therewith, and appoint certain of their number to search their respective quarters for persons that may be fit for spinning the wool, and give a list of them to the provost, that he may send for them, and acquaint them of the encouragement they shall have, that they may go to Mr Sheriff, and he will give them a pattern how to spin the said wool, and give them other proper directions, that so good an undertaking may prove successful and beneficial to the present undertakers, and also redound to the advantage of the inhabitants and tradesmen of the place. B. R. This pompous flourish came to nothing, and so likewise, in 1740, did an attempt of the Scottish Trustees for Manufactures to plant a Woollen Factory at the foot of the green. From this latter abortive effort, is derived the term ' Factory Stream,' at this part of the Tweed. Peebles had hitherto some small domestic manufactures of woollens, and also a waulk-mill, the expansion of which, by proper enterprise and encouragement, would have been the more successful line of policy. Aug. 1 8. William Forrester, for his pains in ringing the five and eight hours' bell since February last, to get half-a-crown, and he is to ring her till Michaelmas. B. R. THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 22$ The ' handsome compliment and donation ' from the Honourable James Carmichael, in acknowledgment of being returned member, having been put to the excellent purpose of paying off debt, leaves the finances in still an unsatisfactory condition. 1735, Nov. 24. The treasurer represents to the council that he needs money to sustain the town's credit, in consequence of the outlays for ' reparations ; ' the council find the representations reasonable, and that there is 'a plain necessity for borrowing five hundred merks.' B. R. 1738, April 7. Following the practice in Edinburgh, complaints betwixt burgess and burgess shall be heard by the bailies every Wed- nesday and Friday, at ringing of the court-bell. B. R. In January 1740, an exceedingly severe frost, which extended over the northern part of Europe, was followed by a failure of the crops. In Scotland, there was a most distressing dearth, leading to riots in Edin- burgh and other places. The people of Peebles suffered in common with others. 1740, July 16. The council considering the scarcity and dearth of the meal, they, for relief of the poor, resolve to buy Barns's two years farm-meal which he has by him, at twenty pounds Scots per load, and ordain their treasurer to sell it out to the poor, not above two pecks at once to one person, at eleven shillings per peck. B. R. 1741, Feb. 13. Considering that there had been and still is a great dearth, the magistrates and council see it their duty to buy victual, and sell it at cost-price to the poor, for which purpose they agree to borrow a thousand merks Scots from Walter Laidlaw, tenant in Willanslee. B. R. 1744, June 22. The council consider it proper to denounce the pernicious practice of smuggling French brandy and tea, and resolve that, whatsoever burgess brings these smuggled wares into the town, shall lose his freedom. B, R. Peebles had not been troubled by the rebellion of 1715, but in 1 745 it received a visit from a detachment of the forces of Prince Charles Edward on the route to England. While the Prince proceeded with the main division of the army by way of Lauder and Kelso, a second party assumed a middle course by Gala- shiels, Selkirk, and Hawick, and the western division, under command of Lord George Murray, took the road from Edinburgh to Peebles, intending to proceed to Carlisle by Moffat. This division, which had charge of the cannon and most of the baggage, arrived at Peebles on the evening of Saturday, the 2d of November. 'The sun was setting as the first lines devolved from the hills which environ the place on every side, and throwing O 226 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. back a thousand threatening glances from the arms of the moving band, caused alarm among the peaceful townsmen, who had only heard enough about the insurrection and its agents to make them fear the worst from the visit Contrary to expectation, the mountaineers neither attempted to cut the throats nor to violate the property of the inhabitants. They let it be known, wherever they went, that they required certain acts of obedience on the part of the people ; and that if these were not willingly rendered, they had the will, as they possessed the power, of using force. The leader demanded payment of the cess, on pain of military execution ; and little parties, calling upon various householders within and without the town, requested such supplies of provisions as could be properly spared, with the alternative of having their houses given up to plunder. But scarcely any incivility was ever shewn in the outset.' 1 According to local tradition, the Highlanders encamped in a field west of Hay Lodge, and on the Sunday, during their stay, caused the town-mills to be set agoing to produce meal for their march. After spending a few days in the place, they departed by way of Tweedsmuir to Moffat ; certain horses and carts belonging to David Grieve, tenant in Jedderfield, being pressed into their service to help them on the way. The gentlemen of the shire and burgh authorities, made a somewhat tardy movement to raise men for the protection of the county. 1746, Jan. 8. Provost Forrester acquainted the council that the gentlemen of the shire met yesterday, and entered into a resolution to raise as many men as possible for the defence of the country against the present rebellion, and are to pay each man eightpence per day that is not able to subsist or maintain himself. And for raising men without loss of time, they have wrote to the respective ministers of this shire to converse with their parochiners, and advise them to enlist as volun- teers for defence of their native country, and to be here Friday next. He thought proper that the council should go into the like resolution for raising men in this burgh. The council unanimously approve of the same, and they empower and authorise the magistrates forthwith to 1 History of the Rebellion 0/1745-6. By R. Chambers. THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 227 publish, by tuck of drum, to all the inhabitants within the burgh, that, as they are hopeful, they will readily take arms for the defence of this place and country, they will repair to the magistrates, and enlist as volunteers, and sign an association for that end ; and such as they judge are not in ability to maintain themselves, they shall have eightpence per day from their mustering. Whoever have arms, to bring them with them; and what arms that shall be wanting, the council recommend it to the magistrates to procure them in the best manner they can. B.R. At this juncture, Peeblesshire, like other counties in Scotland, was still under the jurisdiction of high and deputy sheriffs, whose offices were almost hereditary in certain families, irrespective of the qualification for positions of such trust and importance. The high-sheriff was usually a nobleman, in whom the office was purely honorary, and the real sheriff was the deputy, but his duty consisted chiefly in executing writs and exacting the feudal land- dues for the crown, in which latter capacity he was a species of tax-collector. We have seen how imperfectly these irresponsible sheriffs executed their trust, and it was time that they should be set aside. Grouped along with heritable regalities and other varieties of old jurisdictions remaining in the possession of private individuals, these offices were now by a wise policy swept away as incompatible with the safety of the community. No reform that could be named was of more value than this ; and as the full complement of the act of Union, was cheaply purchased at the price paid by the country ; for the entire sum awarded for the heritable jurisdictions in Scotland was not more than about .152,000. Of this sum, Peeblesshire had but a small share. Lord William Douglas, Earl of March, claimed for the shire of Tweeddale 4000, and as lord of regality and justiciary of New- lands and Linton, ^1500. He was allowed for the sheriffdom 3200, and for the regality of Newlands and Linton, ^"218, 4^. $d. Dickson of Kilbucho claimed for privilege of regality in his barony of Kilbucho, as part of the regality of Dalkeith, 1000; and the curators of Murray of Stanhope claimed, as bailie and justiciar of Stobo, formerly connected with the archbishopric of Glasgow, 1000. Both claims were rejected, probably on the 228 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. ground, that regalities could not be split and claimed for in two places. According to the act of 1747 (20 Geo. II. c. 53), hereditary sheriffships were to cease on the 2 5th of March 1748. The office of sheriff was then to merge in the crown, which was empowered to appoint a sheriff-depute for each county, who was to be an advocate of at least three years' standing ; and the depute was authorised to appoint a substitute, as a resident county magistrate. We thus glance at arrangements which initiated a new era in every part of Scotland. In Peeblesshire, there ensues a marked social change. Men skilled in the law, and exempt from local prejudices, hold regular courts for civil and criminal procedure ; the lairds drop into their proper position of ordinary subjects amenable to the judge ordinary ; and justices of peace exercise in future a subordinate class of duties. The first sheriff-depute under the act, 1747, was Mr James Montgomery, a young and successful advocate, second son of Mr William Montgomery of Macbie Hill, from whom may be dated the rise of the Mont- gomeries in the county. Whatever was the number of men raised in the town and county in 1746, their services never came into use, and the rebellion passed off, as far as Peeblesshire was concerned, with nothing more than some damage to two of the county gentry. The greatest sufferer, as regards material interests, was Sir David Murray of Stanhope, who unhappily attached himself to the cause of the Stewarts. Taken prisoner, he was sentenced to death, but was discharged from custody on condition of trans- porting himself for life. His estates were also sequestrated, and were sold, by authority of the Court of Session, in 1767. Stanhope was purchased by Mr James Montgomery, who, from being sheriff of Peeblesshire, rose to be Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer of Scotland, and to have his long and fortunate career crowned by a baronetcy. The property is now in possession of his grandson. The other person who had reason to feel the error into which he had fallen by his accession to the rebellion, was Murray of Broughton, who acted as secretary to Prince THE REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES. 229 Charles, and to save life and property, became the apostate, whom men of all shades of opinion held justly in detestation. From shortly after the middle of the eighteenth century, a marked change takes place in the public affairs of Peeblesshire. Old usages begin to disappear, and new fashions come into vogue ; the county gets opened up by roads ; fields are enclosed ; gentlemen's seats are erected ; plantations decorate the hitherto bare landscape ; and besides a high-class farming, manufac- turing industry takes root and flourishes the last stage of all being the perforation of the county by railways, which, them- selves a revolution, offer a strange contrast with the times when the first Duke of Queensberry visited Peebles in his state- carriage, preceded by two running footmen. RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. ACCORDING to Pennecuik, rural affairs in Tweeddale had made a marked advance in 1715. In the northern division of the county, portions of heathy morass had been drained, reducing, he says, ' many of those black and barren heaths to fertility and a fairer complexion.' The mosses, however, were not considered to be altogether objectionable ; for as the inhabitants depended chiefly on peat for fuel, the circum- stance of being near a peat-moss was advertised as a recom- mendation in selling estates. At this period, the produce of the arable lands consisted of ' rough bear and oats, few pease, and less wheat.' Artificial grasses had been sown to an inconsiderable extent ; but green crops were unknown, and it was the practice to kill and salt cattle at the beginning of winter, for want of any sufficient means of feeding them. The country was unenclosed and bare. ' The greatest want,' says Pennecuik, ' is timber. Little planting is to be seen in Tweeddale, except it be some few bushes of trees about the houses of the gentry ; and not one wood worth naming in all this open and windy country. So that this unhappy want of foresight in their forefathers, necessitates them to be obliged to the sheriffdom of Lanrick for most part of the timber necessary for their houses and husbandry. Yet there begins to appear amongst the young nobility and gentry of this place, a general genius for planting ; which, in a few years, will RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 231 turn to the ornament as well as the advantage of this cold and naked country, where all sorts of forest-trees will prosper well enough upon due pains and care, as it is credible this has been a woody country of old, whereof there remain to this day many probable appearances.' As regards trees, it should be added that, at this time, there must have been, in various places, thriving sycamores and ashes ; for, of the last in particular, there are now many fine specimens, evidently the growth of centuries. Birch, too, must have existed in considerable patches, as is evidenced by numerous remains, and also from the name ' Birks' being not uncommon as the name of a place. Pennecuik gives the rural population credit for being industrious and careful, 'yet something wilful, stubborn, and tenacious of old customs. There are amongst them, that will not suffer the wrack to be taken out of their land, because (say they) it keeps the corn warm, nor sow their bear-seed, be the season wet or dry, till the first week of May be over, which they call Rnnchie Week, nor plant trees or hedges, for wronging the undergrowth, and sheltering the birds of the air to destroy their corn ; neither will they trench and ditch a piece of useless boggie ground, for fear of the loss of five or six feet of grass, for a far greater increase ; which, however, with a custom they have of overlaying the ground, which they term full plenishing, makes their cattle generally lean, little, and give a mean price in a market.' About the period of the Union, the pasturing of sheep had already begun to be a considerable branch of husbandry. In the work of Blaew, 1654, Tweeddale, it will be remembered, is renowned for its fine sheep-pasturage, and Pennecuik dwells complacently on the same theme. The county, he says, 'is stored with such numbers of sheep, that in the Lintoun mercats, which are kept every Wednesday during the months of June and July, there have frequently been seen 9000 in the customer's roll, and most of all these sold and vented in one day.' He adds, apparently from Blaew: 'The sheep of this country are but small, yet very sweet and delicious, and live to a greater age than elsewhere, by reason of the salubrity of the air, and 232 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. wholesome dry feeding ; and are, indeed, the greatest merchant- commodity that brings money to this place, with their product of lambs, wool, skins, butter, and cheese.' As early as 1730, the county was startled by the extensive draining and planting operations of Archibald, Earl of Islay, afterwards third Duke of Argyle, on a tract of mossy land which he appropriately named the Whim. About the same period, the adjoining property of La Mancha was subjected to a variety of improvements by Thomas, eighth Earl of Dundonald ; while in the parish of Stobo, considerable improvements were effected by Sir Alexander Murray of Stanhope, who, between 1732 and 1740, wrote some useful tracts on agriculture. Immediately afterwards, a taste for enclosing and beautifying grounds was extended and confirmed by Sir James Naesmyth of Dawick, Mr Burnett of Barns, Dr James Hay of Haystoun, Mr Carmichael of Skirling, and other proprietors. Armstrong, writing in 177$. refers to 'the spirit of improvement lately diffused' in the county, but finds cause for blame in the aggregation of small farms, to which 'may be attributed the gradual depopulation, and frequent emigration to a more unfavourable clime ; for the smaller tenant, feeling the weight of an increasing rent, with the advanced price of domestics, is necessitated, unwillingly, to seek relief in the bosom of a distant desart, or submit to the galling yoke of servitude amongst those individuals who deprived him of an hereditary consequence.' From this complaint, we learn that husbandry, on a scale calculated to bring out the full resources of the district, had fairly begun, greatly to the advantage of all parties, the public included. The short-sighted views of Armstrong perhaps met with some response, but the inhabitants were too peacefully disposed to offer any distinct remonstrance against a plainly demonstrable public improvement ; and gradu- ally, though at first by slow stages, lands were thrown into farms of a size worth the attention of men possessing the requisite skill and capital to work them. The progress which the rural affairs of the county made in the latter part of the eighteenth century, is described in the RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 233 well-known work of the Rev. Charles Findlater, 1802. While admitting the good that had been done by several public-spirited proprietors to stimulate improvement, by giving leases of proper duration, Findlater mentions that the advanced or modern husbandry was introduced by the example of professional farmers. Dairy husbandry, he says, was first carried on advan- tageously by Mr Thomas Stevenson, on the farm of Wester Deanshouses. Next, in the list of improvers was ' Mr George Dalziel, innkeeper, first at the village of Linton, and afterwards at Noblehouse ; he was the first farmer that sowed turnip in the open fields ; I believe he had a field of perhaps two or three acres at Linton, so early as 1763 or 1764. I believe he might also be the first who cultivated potatoes on a large scale, by the plough. Dalziel made trials both of turnip and artificial grasses ; I believe, however, that neither were at all adopted into a regular system of rotation of cropping, till introduced in this form by M'Dougal.' This last-named person is, in reality, the father of the new husbandry in Tweeddale. Findlater does not hesitate to ascribe subsequent improvements ' to the example set by Mr James M'Dougal, farmer in the village of Linton, originally from the neighbourhood of Kelso, and trained under the cele- brated Dawson at Frogden. Being possessed of a small capital, but his ideas of improving farming; inferring a much more liberal outlay of capital upon equal terms of land, than what corres- ponded with received usages, he entered upon lease to a farm at Linton, in the year 1778.' Here, M'Dougal initiated the Norfolk rotation of cropping, with plentiful liming and manuring ; and the success which, to the surprise of every one, attended his operations, at length caused the neighbouring farmers to become proselytes to his system. It will not escape notice that all the improvements just referred to, were in the northern section of the county, in the parishes of Linton and Newlands, which thus took the lead of districts more immediately in the valley of the Tweed. At the time when Findlater wrote, agriculture had made such progress, that the old system of small farms was dying out 234 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Only a few specimens remained to enable an estimate to be made of the comparatively miserable style of living with which such a system was identified. The farmhouse was only a low thatched cottage, consisting of seldom more than two apartments with a clay floor ; and no divisions by partitions except those effected by the close wooden bedsteads. The adjoining buildings for cows and horses were also thatched, and usually in a rude dilapidated condition ; while all about the doors was a scene of dirt and confusion. Those labourers who did not sit at table with the farmer, occupied thatched huts of a still smaller size, containing two close beds to form a cross partition, which, says Findlater, 'divided the space occupied by the family from a space of four feet from the gable at which you enter, where stands the cow behind one of the beds, with her tail to the door of the house.' Such were the ordinary buildings on nearly all the farms in Peeblesshire, till the era of improvement last century examples of which are now to be seen only in some of the West Highlands, and other unimproved parts of Scotland. The class of farm-buildings which superseded these ancient tenements were regularly built with stone and lime, and slated. The dwelling of the farmer consisted of a house of two stories, having a front with three windows above and two below, with a door in the middle. Entering opposite the stair, on one hand was the kitchen, and on the other the sitting-room of the family ; above, were several small apartments. For economy of space, the sitting-room had a bed concealed by doors a very common provision in old Peeblesshire houses, whether in the country or town. Influenced by modern notions, the farmer, with his family, now sat apart from the servants ; the mistress of the establishment, however, continuing to take a considerable hand in churning, making butter and cheese, and other departments of household economy. As regards style of living, there was no great advance ; plain fare, with few luxuries, being still the general rule. Gigs being not yet in fashion, except among the gentry, the farmer and his wife still rode double on horseback, when going to church, or to town on a market-day. In every RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 235 farmhouse, the small spinning-wheel for flax, and the larger wheel for wool, were articles in regular use by all the females in the establishment ; the produce being transformed into linens, blankets, and plaids, by one of the weavers of ' customer- work ' in Peebles. As elsewhere in Scotland, the grain was anciently winnowed on airy knolls known as sheeling laws or hills hence ' Shilling- law,' as a name of several places but this practice was generally laid aside in Tweeddale about 1750, or thirteen years after fanners had been invented by Andrew Craigie, a retired and ingenious farmer in Roxburghshire. The earliest notice we have of fanners in Peeblesshire is in a deed, purporting to be a mutual agreement between nine farmers in the parish of Newlands, to pay for and employ ' a pair of mill-fanners,' procured by 'James Brydine, tenant in Flemington Mill.' This curious private docu- ment is dated January 17, 1746. The fanners cost 30 Scots, or 2, los. sterling ; and the circumstance of nine farmers uniting to pay out this trifling sum, affords evidence of the still poor condition of the Tweeddale tenantry at the middle of the eighteenth century. The flail, except in a humble way, disappeared previous to 1802, when, according to Findlater, there were eighteen thrash- ing-mills going by water, and twenty-four driven by two horses each. At this time, he says, there were thirteen proprietors in the county drawing an annual rent of about 100 a. year ; twenty- four, from ;ioo to .400; fifteen, from 400 to .1000; and eight, from ;iooo to 4000 making a total of sixty proprietors, exclu- sive of those drawing a smaller class of rents. Altogether, the gross annual rental of the county was, he adds, about 26,000 ; but this did not express the entire value exacted, for some farmers paid partly in kain fowls, and partly in the carriage of articles, commutable at a money value; and from the greater number, multures were taken at the mills to which tenants were thirled to bring their grain to be ground. This odious practice of thirlage, however, gradually disappeared early in the present century ; an act of parliament having been passed in 1799, authorising 236 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. all farmers to commute their thirlage. Of the money rental above stated, by far the larger proportion was from pastoral farms ; spread over the whole county, it amounted to consider* ably under half-a-crown per English acre. The second ortransitionary stage of rural affairs in Tweeddale now depicted, was marked by an exceptional peculiarity of tenure, which is allowed to have had a singularly stimulating effect The extensive Neidpath estates, held in strict entail, were let by the Earl of March, about 1788, on leases for fifty-seven years, being three times nineteen, the usual duration. The tenants had the farms at a small rent, in consideration of giving fines or grassums at entry. Insured leases for so long a period, at an insignificant annual rent, a spirited style of improvement immediately commenced. The tenants, feeling themselves almost in the position of proprietors, built houses, cleared the land of stones, erected dykes as enclosures, planted trees for shelter, and in point of husbandry, took the lead in the county. Of those who signalised themselves in this manner, Findlater points to Mr James Murray, in Newlands parish ; Mr Gray, in Lyne ; Mr Charles Alexander, in Easter Happrew, Stobo ; and Mr Robert Symington, in Edston, parish of Peebles. The long leases of the Neidpath estates were ultimately reduced, about 1821, by the House of Lords, as contrary to the rights of the next heir of entail ; but adequate compensation was made to the lessees. In the present day, rural management in Tweeddale has reached a third or highly advanced stage, corresponding to what has been attained in the other improved parts of Scotland ; the main difference being that, as the county is hilly, and well adapted for pasture, the husbandry is generally of a mixed kind, embracing sheep and arable farming an arrangement which evokes close and varied attention, and possesses the advantage of placing the farmer, in a great measure, above casual rises and falls in the market ; for when agricultural produce is doivn, sheep and wool may be up, or vice versd. Much of the land in Peeblesshire being a light gravelly soil, or lying at slopes which admit of rapid drainage, it is a common RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 237 remark that the county can receive a good deal of rain without serious damage to the agriculturist, which is fortunate ; for with so many hills, showery weather is common ; and, according to meteorological observation, the quantity of rain which ordinarily falls is about 29 inches per annum. There is, however, not a little stiff clay-land in the county, and in some places mossy soils, which could dispense with the moisture required so copiously in other quarters. We have already alluded to the first and second stage of farm- house architecture in Peeblesshire, and it only remains for us to say, that the third stage now reached places the dwellings of the farmers on a level with the best class of villas in the neigh- bourhood of large towns. Nor is it unreasonable that such should generally be the case, for, in most instances, the modern farmer is a person of superior attainments and tastes one who, entering on his lease with a capital of several thousand pounds, is entitled to the respectful consideration of his landlord. The farm- steadings of the more improved class, usually consist of a quad- rangular range of buildings, stone and slated ; comprehending stables, cow-houses, feeding-yards and sheds, thrashing-mill, barn, and other offices. The sheaves of grain, on being collected from the fields, are built into round stacks in the open air, in a yard adjoining the thrashing-mill. Some steadings excel in their feeding-sheds and straw-yards, where oxen are fattened for the butcher during winter, and an abundance of manure produced for the fields next to be subjected to the plough. At a moderate distance from the steadings, is the row of hinds' houses, consisting ordinarily of four or five cottages. On some properties, these dwellings are still on a far from satisfactory scale of accommoda- tion ; but on others they are sufficient in point of size and general comfort. The size of farms is very various. Rents are generally from 250 to 800 ; but there are some instances of farms exceeding the last-named rent, and even reaching 1000 and upwards. There are few now remaining of the very small farms which were once so numerous, although here and there, in every part of the 238 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. county, one may still be found ; and in the north-western part, they are more numerous than elsewhere, whilst there also the rents of many of the farms are between 100 and 250. The soil not being very rich, the rent of land is seldom more than 32J. or 33^. per (imperial) acre. Fields in the immediate vicinity of a town or village are, however, on account of local convenience, sometimes let at a rent as high as 4 per acre. The land used exclusively for sheep-pasture is generally of very different value in different parts of the same farm, owing to differences of soil, altitude, inclination, and other circumstances. There is much land in the county which is not worth a shilling an acre of annual rent. Sheep-pastures are not generally let according to a calculation based on the number of acres, but rather on the number of sheep which the farm is supposed capable of feeding ; the kind of sheep being also taken into account, and their probable value or productiveness, so that the rent varies from $s. to ios., and even 12s. per sheep ; as the produce in wool, mutton, and lamb is much greater for each sheep on good land in a good situation, than on poor land in a high and cold situation. Land is now generally let at a fixed money-rent, although the old practice of letting it at a rent varying according to the fiar price of grain still partially prevails. Farms are, however, seldom let entirely at a grain-rent. In some instances, the rent of the arable land is a certain number of bolls of grain, either oats or barley, whilst, for the pastoral part of the farm, a fixed money-rent is paid. Leases are generally for nineteen years ; rarely now for twenty- one, or for any other number of years, excepting as regards sheep-farms, which, in many cases, are let for periods of from nine to fifteen years. Very little land is let otherwise than on lease for a term of years, except fields let singly for pasture, every year, and with regard to which no permanent occupancy is contemplated. Here, as in other parts of Scotland, sub-letting is not allowed. In many cases, the landlord pays for drainage (the tenant supplying the carriage of tiles and other materials), RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 239 fencing, and other permanent improvements, the tenant some- times paying interest till the end of his lease on the money so expended. Generally, the landlord gives the farm, with farmhouse and offices, to the tenant in good condition, and the tenant is bound to give it back in good condition at the expiration of the lease, allowance being only made for the natural wear and decay of such a period. In cases where a farm newly improved, requires to be put in a proper condition for an incoming tenant, it is not unusual for the landlord to expend as much as 2000 on a new steading and other things essentially necessary ; and it is only where some particular improvements seem likely to remunerate the tenant during the currency of his lease, that he makes them at his own expense. The expense of drainage is sometimes shared by the landlord and tenant, the proportions varying, and being stipulated in the lease. The late Earl of Traquair paid for the cutting of the drains on his estate and for the drain-tiles ; the tenants brought the tiles to the spot, and filled the drains, the landlord's share being thus much heavier than that of the tenant. As regards cropping, though in practice there is scarcely any restriction, it is usually stipulated that there shall be a rotation of five years : (l.) oats, after lea (pasture) ; (2.) potatoes, turnips, or other green crop ; (3.) barley, oats, or wheat ; (4.) grass, cut for hay, or used as pasture ; (5.) grass used as pasture. High land is very generally kept three years in crop, and three or more years in grass ; low land in the valleys or dales, three years in crop, and two in grass. The introduction of guano and other new manures has wrought a great change in the farming of this county. This has, indeed, been the case generally in all districts of Scotland in which agriculture is in a flourishing condition, but nowhere more conspicuously than in Peeblesshire ; as the steepness of many of the hills prevented the carting of dung to lands which were thus unfitted for the plough, but which became arable so soon as light and easily portable manures were known. The conse- quence has been, that fields have been enclosed and brought 240 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. under cultivation in what was formerly hill-pasture, and these fields, even at very considerable altitudes, have produced good crops ; whilst, when sown down with grasses and clover, they become far more valuable in pasture than before, insomuch that, where formerly not more than one sheep per acre was kept, two, or even three, are now kept, and each of these yielding in the various kinds of produce much more than the one sheep did before. But this great increase of produce is far from being all clear gain to the farmer or the landlord, as the sheep now kept require expensive winter-feeding; whilst the sheep formerly kept were left to depend entirely, except during long continued snow-storms, on the hill-pasture. There are farms in the county in which two-thirds of the present arable land have been recently reclaimed from hill-pasture, and this process of improvement is rapidly going on. The land thus rendered capable of supporting a much increased number of sheep, requires to be again broken up and manured after a few years. It would be interesting to know the quantity of guano and the other new manures now used in the county, but there are no means of ascertaining it. How great it is, may in some measure be inferred from the fact, that one farmer near Peebles, occupying a large farm, but not the very largest, spends about 300 a year in the purchase of these manures. Lime, also, especially at the commencement of leases, continues to be applied in proper quantities, wherever it appears desirable. In late years, drains have been cut much deeper than formerly ; their depth is now seldom, if ever, less than three feet, often three and a-half or four feet ; and drain-tiles are almost always used instead of stones. Hill-land, on being brought under cultivation, is always drained to the depth of at least three feet. Much of the land formerly drained has been drained anew, to reach a greater depth. The drainage of land in Peeblesshire, although begun so long ago, is still very far from being completed, and is now making rapid progress from year to year. Furrow-drainage was introduced at the same time as in other RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 24! parts of Scotland, with the same greatly beneficial results, and became pretty general about twenty-five years ago. Sheep-drains have also been very generally cut on the hills. It may perhaps be necessary to explain to those not much acquainted with pastoral districts, that these are open drains, generally about fifteen inches deep, and eighteen inches wide, branching from a main channel, and intended to dry the surface of mountain- pastures where it is supposed that a more expensive system of drainage would not be remunerative. They have proved eminently useful in improving the pasture, and preventing rot and other diseases of sheep. These drains require to be renewed after intervals of from eight to twelve years. The old practice of cropping arable land until the soil was exhausted, and then laying it down in grass, has long ago been superseded by other methods. Unproductive fallowing, generally practised to a comparatively recent date, is no longer indispensable, and has given place to the cultivation of green crops. The farmer was formerly obliged, for want of manure, to leave a considerable portion of his land every year in fallow, or ploughed, but without a crop, which he now generally sows with turnips, availing himself of the new manures ; a great portion of the turnips being consumed on the ground by sheep, and the land thus again manured so as to be ready for another crop. Flakes (wooden hurdles) and nets are employed for movable fences, so that the sheep are confined to a small portion of the field at a time, and are not permitted to roam over the whole of it, in which case more would be destroyed than eaten. The dung and refuse of the turnips are sometimes covered with earth by means of a grubber drawn by two horses, immediately after the sheep are removed. This is an easy process on light, but much more difficult on heavy, soils. It may be doubted if the covering in general takes place so soon as it would, if the farmers fully appreciated the loss sustained in the ammoniacal portion of the dung whilst exposed to the air, and the benefit of the vegetable refuse rotting in the soil rather than in the air. Some further attention on this point, and still more to the too P 242 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. frequent waste of liquid manure in farm-yards, seems still to be required. In consequence of the extension of turnip-cultivation on the hills, farms which were formerly stocked every year with black- faced wether lambs, are now stocked with Cheviot or with black- faced ewes ; and many sheep from these hill-farms, after being brought to lower grounds, and fed on turnips for a time, are sent to market at two years old. The cast ewes, also, of hill- farms that is, those which it is not thought expedient to keep any longer for stock are conveyed to lower grounds, to produce lambs before they themselves go to the butcher ; rams of the Leicester breed being in this case generally preferred. Half-bred lambs are brought to market when fourteen or fifteen months old, when, if properly cared for during winter, they weigh from fourteen to twenty pounds per quarter. In consequence of the disastrous losses sustained by the sheep- farmers in the winter of 1859-1860, some have returned to the hardier black-faced breed, who had previously stocked their farms with Cheviots. In the inclement season referred to, where whins (furze or gorse) grew on the farms, the sheep did not suffer as elsewhere ; the young shoots of the whin affording them food which is at all times acceptable, but of which the value was then particularly felt by the farmer. Oxen are chiefly of the Ayrshire and short-horn breeds, or crosses more or less nearly allied to the short-horn. Where dairy produce is the object, which is generally sweet or fresh butter and skimmed -milk cheese, Ayrshire cows are preferred ; but for stock rearing, either for grazing or feeding, which is now in greater favour, the short-horn crosses are more frequently kept. The dairy management is not generally equal to that of many other parts of the country. A dairy at Winkston alone deserves special commendation. The farm-horses are almost all of the Clydesdale breed ; and many are reared in the county. Swine are very generally kept by farmers, but no particular care is taken respecting their feeding. Many swine are also kept RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 243 by farm- servants, cottagers, and villagers, but in sties which are in almost all cases too small, nor is their cleanliness sufficiently attended to. No case within our knowledge, however, has occurred of measly pork. Within these few years, a large bacon and ham-curing establishment has been carried on successfully at Broughton, for an account of which we refer to our notice of that parish. All kinds of poultry common in Scotland are kept in Peebles- shire, and find a ready sale to cadgers, who with carts regularly traverse the county, buying up various articles of rural produce, and bringing things in return from Edinburgh. The poultry, however, is seldom properly fed, and in this department of husbandry there is great room for improvement. The annual prize exhibitions of poultry at Peebles, recently set on foot, may perhaps effect a remedy. Bees are kept in almost all parts of the county, but chiefly in the lower parts, whence their skeps (hives) are removed to the higher grounds in autumn, when the heath is in flower. The result is very fine heather-honey, which readily finds a market. The principal corn-crops are barley and oats. Wheat is grown in the richer low grounds, but it is considered a precarious crop, and not in favour with the farmers. Barley is extensively grown ; and the common English variety is very generally preferred. Chevalier barley, though superior in quality, and longer in the straw, has the disadvantage of being ten days longer in ripening ; it is also reckoned to be more severe on the ground, and more injurious to the clovers which have been sown- with it. Many varieties of oats are cultivated, including the Early Angus, Sandy, Barbachlaw, Berlie, Hopeton, Tartarian, Potato, and Providence oats, a recently introduced and favourite kind. Rye is scarcely known as a crop. Beans are not extensively cultivated, and chiefly for the feeding of the farm-horses, not for sale. The kind generally preferred is the common Horse Bean, to which both soil and climate seem very suitable. Pease are less cultivated than they were half a century ago, partly owing to the more extensive 244 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. cultivation of turnips, and the almost universal use of wheaten, in place of pease, bread ; and partly to the great increase of wood-pigeons, which render their cultivation in many places unprofitable. The grass principally sown is ryegrass, although mixed grass- seeds are also sown for pasture. Perennial ryegrass is generally preferred, and in the lower districts, Italian ryegrass is now also common. A mixture of perennial ryegrass and Italian ryegrass is now indeed more frequent in the lower districts than either of them singly. But in the upper or western parts of the county, the production of ryegrass seed for sale is to some extent a branch of rural economy, and in this case, no mixture of kinds is admitted. Timothy Grass is sometimes sown, but chiefly with other grasses, for permanent pasture. Red clover was formerly sown to a greater extent than now. On some farms, it does not grow well, perhaps from having been too frequently sown on the same land, which is then said by farmers to be * clover-sick.' The kind of clover called Cowgrass (Zigzag Clover, or Meadow Clover, Trifolium medium) is often sown in its stead, being coarser indeed, but also more hardy, and springing again more freely after having been eaten down by cattle. White or Dutch Clover, and Alsike Clover, are very generally sown for pasture ; the former has been long in use, the latter is of recent introduction. Yellow Clover more correctly Medick (Medicago lupulina), is also sown, particularly where the soil is somewhat damp. The seeds of grasses and clovers are sown along with the cereal crop which they are to follow. The turnip crop is of the greatest importance on almost every Peeblesshire farm, a few of the highest alone excepted, and even to these, the cultivation of turnips is now in course of extension. Many varieties are cultivated ; of which the White Globe and Grey Stone may be mentioned as large soft varieties, fit only for early use before the seventy of winter has begun, but valued for their productiveness. The Aberdeen Yellow, and the Purple- topped Swedish, are the kinds generally preferred for winter and spring use. As an instance of the fitness of the soil for the RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 245 growth of this useful root, it may be mentioned, that on the farm of Drummelzier Haugh, a single acre produced, in 1852, no less than fifty tons weight, the manure being a mixture of dissolved bones and guano. Mangold-wurzel has been sometimes grown, but the climate of even the earliest parts of Scotland appears to be little adapted for its growth, and a full or even profitable crop, as compared with turnips, has been rarely obtained under the most favourable conditions. The whole system of rural economy has for a long time been so wrought up with turnip cultivation, and adapted to it, that only a very strong reason of apparent advantage will induce the prudent farmer to make any change as to this crop. The apprehension of a great and general failure of the turnip, through the prevalence of anbury or finger-and-toe, has led many farmers, however, to look with some favour on any proposal of a probable substitute. For the last two or three years, however, turnips in this county have not suffered so much from finger-and- toe as formerly. The cause of this difference is utterly unknown. Some farms are much more liable to this disease of turnips than others. Potatoes are generally, but not very extensively, cultivated ; less extensively in most parts of the county than they were twenty years ago, and throughout a considerable period before the years of the potato failure, of which 1846 was the worst. On some farms, however, in the west of the county, potatoes form a greater part of the crop than elsewhere. The acknowledged risk of loss makes farmers in general unwilling to plant them exten- sively, notwithstanding the large profits sometimes obtained by a good crop. The varieties in general cultivation before 1846 are now unknown, and more recent ones have come in their place, of which those called Prince Regent, Irish Rock, and Orkney Reds are at present in highest repute. But many farmers think it best to cultivate several kinds, and new kinds are very willingly tried. Flax is now very rarely sown, although in former times, within the memory of persons still living, it was a common crop ; being 246 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. cultivated, however, only on a small scale, and often in patches rather than in fields. The cultivation of oats and of turnips is carried higher on the hills than that of any other crop, except the grasses and clovers sown for pasture. Good crops of oats are obtained at an eleva- tion of 800 to 1 200 feet above the sea-level, of which instances are presented at La Mancha, at Linton, and on the slopes of the Lee Pen, over the village of Innerleithen. The fences employed in Peeblesshire are, for the most part, dry-stone dykes, built in a neat and durable manner, about four feet six inches high. These walls have several advantages : they do not occupy much space ; they are completed at once at a moderate cost ; the materials for them are near at hand ; and they yield considerable shelter. When placed along the sides of plantations, they receive no injury from the drip of trees. Latterly, wire-fences have come into use, but they have the disadvantage of yielding no shelter. In many places, hawthorn- hedges are employed ; but they seldom thrive with that equality which is pleasing to the eye. Parts here and there die out, and requiring to be replaced with fresh thorn or beech plants, and guarded by palings, this species of fence is often costly. On some properties which abound in hedges, a skilled hedger is employed to keep them in order, and clear out the ditches at their sides. As regards planting, which was introduced by several improvers in the course of last century, it has in many places been over- done, far more land being covered with trees than was at all desirable for shelter, ornament, or ultimate profit. So great has been this mistake, that until the railways afforded means of transit, well-grown native larch was nearly valueless did not pay for the cutting and attention required to be bestowed upon it. Now that it can be readily despatched to a market, steam- moved saw-mills have in several places been set up, and great quantities of wood are in the course of being cut, and sold for the making of boxes and barrels, and for other purposes. The largest establishment of this kind is that set on foot at Peebles RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 247 by Sir Adam Hay, who thus has brought into profitable use the extensive woods planted by his father, the late Sir John Hay, in the neighbourhood of the town. The most improved kinds of agricultural implements are generally used in Peeblesshire. Almost every farm is now provided with a thrashing-machine, a few of the small farms excepted ; so that the sound of the flail, once so common, is rarely heard. The thrashing-machines are in most cases driven by water, sometimes by horses ; but the steam-engine has begun to be introduced. Drills for sowing corn broad-cast are used on many farms, but are found less suitable for steep than for level ground, as on steep ground they sow less regularly, and deposit the grain somewhat to one side. It is hardly necessary to say that turnip drills have been long in universal use. Reaping-machines have begun to be introduced, and seem likely soon to be common. In these and some other respects, therefore, the farmers of Peebles- shire appear to be desirous to keep abreast of their neighbours in Mid-Lothian. Nevertheless, it is curious to note that they are still not altogether free from the charge of being ' stubborn, and tenacious of old customs.' A remarkable instance of this occurred in the case of the railway from Peebles to Edinburgh, which was in operation several years before the farmers generally took advantage of the speedy and economical means of convey- ance for cattle, sheep, and grain which it presented. Having at length, though slowly, discovered that railway transit is cheapest, it is now embraced as an important auxiliary in all departments of farming. An advance in the wages and condition generally of all classes of farm-servants has in some measure kept pace with an advance in prices and other improvements. On this subject, the Rev. William Welsh, in his account of the parish of Drummelzier, I793, 1 gives some useful particulars. He says : ' Servants' wages are high ; a man 6 per annum ; a maid-servant, 2 for the summer half-year, and about 2$s. for winter. The wages they receive enable families to live in a very different manner, indeed, 1 Statistical Account of Scotland, vol. vii. p. 154. 248 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. from the poor in England, as they buy no luxuries. Provisions are double the price they were forty years ago. A lamb costs $s. or 6s. ; a sheep, if fat, us. or \2s. ; a fowl, is. ; butter, lod. per Ib. ; cheese, 6s. per stone.' We may compare the wages which were thought high in 1793 with those paid in 1863. Farm-servants, in regular employment for the whole year, are in almost all cases paid in money, and, if married, partly in kind. Hinds or married ploughmen receive about .13 to 1$ in money ; with a house and garden ; a cow's ' keep ' through- out the whole year (the farmer sometimes also providing the cow, but this is not common) ; sixty-five stones of oatmeal ; one thousand yards of drill of potatoes, which the farmer plants, manures, and cultivates as to all the horse-work, the hind pro- viding the seed ; the carting of four tons of coals, the hind paying for the coals ; and a month's food during harvest. Some farmers give from 18 to 20 or 22, and do not give a cow's keep. The grieve, or hind who has charge of the farm-work in absence of the farmer, receives a few pounds more than the rest, some- times ^24 in money. Young men living in the farmer's house receive ;i8 or 20 of wages. The wages of boys are very various ; often ^3 or 4 per half-year. Female servants employed in farm-work receive 8 to ;io a year often $ for the summer, and 4. for the winter half-year and live in the farmer's house. The practice of lodging unmarried ploughmen and other farm-servants in bothies, does not exist in Peeblesshire ; there probably not being a bothy in the whole county. There exists, however, to a small extent, what is designated the Bondager System, or, at least, a variety of it. It consists in the hind, or married farm-servant, being obliged by the farmer to keep, as a boarder in his cottage, a female outworker or bondager. According to this arrange- ment, the farmer agrees to pay the hind is., or thereabouts, a day on account of the worker, leaving the hind to make such bargain with her as he thinks proper. We need hardly say, that, on moral and social grounds, the system here faintly described, is seriously objectionable. RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 249 Shepherds are sometimes paid pretty much as hinds are, receiving about 20 a year in money, a house and garden, cow's keep, oatmeal, and all the other things already mentioned in the case of hinds. But more generally, the shepherd, at least if having the care of sheep on hill-pastures, has no money-wage, but is allowed the pasturage of a certain number of sheep. These are called the shepherd's pack, and feed along with the flock of his master, of which it is thus his own interest to be very careful. They are distinguished by a particular mark, and all the produce of them belongs to the shepherd. The number varies on different farms from twenty to fifty, according to the kind of sheep kept, the quality of the pasture, and the probable value of the produce. Shepherds generally prefer this mode of remuneration to fixed wages in money, and their condition is generally superior to that of hinds. When a shepherd is not able to buy sheep for himself, the farmer sometimes assigns him a certain number, of which he enjoys the produce. When he is able, however, the shepherd usually buys the sheep of his predecessor. A shepherd is not entitled to dispose of his pack except to his successor, or to the farmer, as it is very inconvenient to have strange sheep introduced into a flock. The valuing of the shepherd's pack is therefore a common occurrence when a new shepherd is appointed. But this is done as seldom as possible, and many shepherds spend the greater part of their lives in the same fording, daily traversing, even in old age, the same hills with which they have been familiarised from their youth, and seeing not only a succession of farmers but of lairds, as the property passes from one to another, either by inheritance or by sale. Unmarried shepherds, living in the farmer's house, sometimes receive fixed wages in money, but sometimes they also have a pack. Linton market, spoken of by Pennecuik, no longer exists. It ceased in 1856 ; one which was more convenient having been then instituted at Lanark. The great fair at Melrose on the I2th, and that at Lockerbie on 1 3th August, are the principal markets for Cheviot and ' half-bred ' lambs ; the two fairs of Lanark, in 250 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the same month, for lambs of the black-faced breed. Another Melrose fair, in the end of autumn, is the great market for the sale of Cheviot ewes, wethers, and small lambs. Oxen are generally purchased at Hallow-fair and Dalkeith, but oxen are not brought in considerable numbers into Peeblesshire. Cheviot and half-bred lambs are now sold to some extent in Peebles, at monthly sales established some years since. Wool is disposed of to some extent at Peebles wool-fair in July, which was formerly, however, of greater importance than it is now, the greater part of the wool produced in Peeblesshire being sent to the wool-sales established in Edinburgh. In Peebles, a prize cattle-show takes place annually, which is believed to have a beneficial effect ; besides which, many persons in the county compete at the great annual exhibitions of the Highland and Agricultural Society. Most of the garden-crops raised in other parts of Scotland are common also in Peeblesshire ; and elevated as the district is above the level of the sea, shrubs and flowers of various attractive kinds grow in perfection. The casual frosts in spring are unfortunately often fatal to the fruit-blossoms, by which apples and pears are a precarious crop. Gooseberries and strawberries thrive in perfection. The Horticultural Societies established some years ago in the county have tended to improve gardening generally, and are well encouraged. The advance in the value of heritable property in Peebles- shire is strikingly manifest in the Statutory Valuation Rolls. In 1657, the valued annual rental was only 4328, 2s. lod. sterling. According to the valuation made in virtue of two recent acts, 17 and 18 Viet cap. 91, and 24 and 25 Viet. cap. 83, the rental of the county (burgh and railways excluded), in 1863, was 90,927, 8j. 3^1 This new roll comprehended 41 estates, yielding from 100 to 500 per annum; 35 from 500 to 1000; 16 from 1000 to 2000; and 8 from 2000 upwards, of which I was 4952, i 5740, and I about 12,000 total 100, irre- spective of properties yielding less than ;ioo per annum. 1 This 1 A number of the proprietors of every class, have either estates or other sfturces of revenue, out of the county. RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 251 statement shews a considerable advance on that made by Findlater, who mentions, on what authority we know not, that in 1802 the annual gross rental of the county was 26,000. Supposing that to be correct, the rental of heritable property is nearly quadrupled within the present century; and it is an indubitable fact, that it is about twenty times greater than it was two hundred years ago. The recent valuation roll, however, gives an inadequate idea of the outlay by proprietors, or the absolute market value of estates ; for in many instances vast sums have been expended on mansions, pleasure-grounds, and permanent improvements, which cannot be represented by any return in rental. Except in the case of purely pastoral farms, which are kept at little expense, the money return for an invest- ment on land in this, as in perhaps other counties in Scotland, is usually not more than about 2\ per cent. ; notwithstanding which, estates are for the most part bought with avidity such being the prevalent and increasing desire to acquire land. Peeblesshire, as formerly stated, can shew few old families. Among the hundred above enumerated, we can scarcely reckon six that reach back to the seventeenth century or earlier, and not more than fifteen of the present families appear to have been territorially distinguished in the county a century ago. In short, with few exceptions, which are diminishing in number, the land proprietory is of comparatively recent date, and in the present or immediately preceding generation, less or more owes its position to success in professional pursuits a circumstance which has had an important bearing on the general interests of the shire ; for it is in a great measure owing to the liberal expenditure of successive new proprietors, that the marvellous improvements of the last hundred years have been effected. From our subsequent topographical accounts, it will be perceived that much of the land is owned by persons who reside wholly, or at least a part of the year, in the county ; through which means Peeblesshire presents as good a specimen of a social fabric constituted of land- proprietors, tenant-farmers, and professional and labouring classes, all in due proportion, as can anywhere be found in Great Britain. HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Long inert, except as regards rural improvement, the county has latterly shewn a marked advance in manufacturing industry, chiefly through the enterprise and capital of strangers from Selkirk and Roxburgh shires, by whom large sums have been expended in the establishment of mills fitted up with the most improved kinds of machinery. The hitherto waste water-power of the county has thus been brought into use, leaving, however, infinitely more to be still appropriated. After repeated failures, the woollen manufacture took root first at Innerleithen, and more recently it sprung up with great vigour at Walker Burn, in the same parish. A manufacture of a similar kind has also now been successfully set on foot in Peebles. The value of the goods produced at the various woollen manufactories throughout the county is, by competent authorities, computed to be at present about 220,000 per annum ; but the amount is increasing so rapidly, that any immediate estimate is of little moment. Australian or foreign wool is chiefly used ; at one mill, devoted to the manufacture of blankets, Cheviot or home-grown wool is employed. Besides the above manufactories, a wholesale depot of the Tweed class of goods has lately been established on a large scale at Peebles, by Walter Thorburn, a native of Selkirkshire, to whose energy and enterprise the town has been in various ways indebted. Including the transactions at this last-mentioned establishment, it may be safely averred that the woollen trade in Peeblesshire is in amount now about three times the valued rental of the county. Some details on the subject are presented under the head INNERLEITHEN. According to Returns prepared under the direction of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, in 1855, and presented to the Board of Trade, the following are the principal statistics connected with the agriculture and farming-stock of the County : Acreage. 314 occupants, with 36,436 \ acres in crop, of which 104! acres are wheat ; 2027 barley; 9910^ oats ; i rye ; 27^ bere ; 19^ beans ; 182^ pease ; 227 vetches ; 5265! turnips ; 956 potatoes ; 4^ mangold ; i \ carrots ; i cabbage ; sj turnip seed ; 3 other crops ; 83! bare fallow ; 1 7>6i5 J grass and hay under rotation. Estimated Produce. Wheat, 2822 bushels ; barley, 62,330 bushels ; RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 253 oats, 338,931 bushels; bere, 1037 bushels; beans and pease, 2841 bushels ; turnips, 70,956 tons ; potatoes, 4505 tons. Stock. Horses for agricultural purposes, above three years old, 975 ; ditto, under three years old, 238 ; all other horses, 199 ; milk cows, 2581 ; other cattle, 3037 ; calves, 1736 ; sheep of all ages, for breeding, 89,708 ; sheep of all ages, for feeding, 21,470 ; lambs, produce of 1855, 61,533 ; swine, 1215. Total stock, 182,692. Estimated average Produce per Acre. Wheat, 26 bushels 3$ pecks ; barley, 30 bushels 3 pecks ; oats, 34 bushels 2 pecks ; bere, 38 bushels Q\ pecks; beans and pease, 14 bushels o pecks; turnips, 13 tons 9^ cwts. ; potatoes, 4 tons 14^ cwts. In 1861, the population of the county was 11,408; of whom 5658 were males, and 5750 females, being a proportion of 101*6 of females to every 100 males. The increase of population in the preceding ten years was 670. The number of separate families in the county, in 1861, was 2410. Houses inhabited, 1982; uninhabited, 102; building, 23. The number of children, from five to fifteen, at school in the county, was 1682 ; scholars of all ages, 1849. At the same time, there were in the county 35 male teachers, 15 female teachers, and 6 governesses; 30 clergymen of various persuasions ; 210 male farmers, and 9 female farmers , 47 farm-bailiffs, 25 gamekeepers, 544 agricultural labourers, 417 ploughmen, 261 shepherds, and 339 indoor farm-servants; 7 builders, 128 carpenters and joiners, 176 masons and paviors, 13 slaters, 22 stone-dykers, 6 plasterers, 26 painters and glaziers, 8 plumbers, and 2 thatchers. Throughout the county, there were 429 female general domestic servants, 27 housekeepers, 42 cooks, 63 housemaids, 17 laundry-maids, and 27 nurses. The number of police-officers was 8, including one head-constable and one sergeant. Except during close-time in the Tweed, when a large additional force is employed, the number of police still remains the same ; and the circumstance of a whole county requiring no more functionaries of this sort, speaks well for the orderliness of its population ; but the truth is, grave crimes seldom occur in Peeblesshire. According to a table of convictions for the year ending March 1863, there were 41 for breaches of the Tweed Fisheries Acts, 2 for poaching, 24 for assault, 17 for breaches of the peace, and 6 for wilful mischief; these, with miscellaneous offences, made up a total of 137, of which only 7 were committed by females. From the amount of railway operations going on, the above year is considered to have been exceptional ; the ordinary number of convic- tions in the year being from 70 to 80. In 1859-60, there were only 57. Many of the convictions are of vagrants, or of those who do not habitually reside in the county. In 1863, the death-rate of Peeblesshire was 2-34 in every hundred of 254 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the population, the general death-rate of Scotland being, for the same year, 2-30. In 1863, the ratio of illegitimate births in Peeblesshire was 10-3 per cent, of the whole births ; the general ratio of illegitimate births in Scotland, for the same year, being 9-9. The county and town of Peebles are united, under the Act 2 and 3 Will. IV. c. 35, as a joint parliamentary constituency, returning a member to the House of Commons. According to the register made up to November 1863, the number of voters, town and county included, was 466, whereof 97 resided out of the county. Within the present century, the whole of the roads in the county have been improved and kept in good condition, in virtue of certain turnpike and statute-labour road acts, administered by trustees. Under the current statutory arrangement, the turnpike roads are divided into six districts, with a separate account for the bridge across the Tweed at Innerleithen all the thoroughfares, bridge included, being so far maintained by tolls ; a shortcoming in which has caused the districts generally to get seriously into debt The statute-labour roads have been upheld by a small assessment levied in each parish as occasion required. As the establishment of railways (see PEEBLES BURGH) will almost annihilate the revenue from the tolls, it is proposed to reorganise the entire system on the basis of an assessment on property. A bill prepared for the purpose has been introduced into parliament, and is at present under consideration. Some perplexity prevails respecting the number of parishes in Peeblesshire, in consequence of several being united for eccle- siastical purposes. The actual number of parishes in a legal sense, is sixteen, as follows Peebles, Eddleston, Innerleithen, Traquair, Manor, Lyne with Megget, Stobo, Drummelzier, Tweedsmuir, Broughton, Glenholm, Kilbucho, Kirkurd, Skirling, Linton, and Newlands. For ecclesiastical purposes, Broughton, Glenholm, and part of Kilbucho are reckoned as one ; the remaining portion of Kilbucho being ecclesiastically attached to Culter, in Lanarkshire. Lyne and Megget, though lying apart, are united quoad omnia, and are therefore only one parish. The result of these arrangements is, that the number of parish ministers in the county is fourteen. Parts of the parishes of Innerleithen and Traquair extend into Selkirkshire, a portion of which county is environed by the parish of Peebles. There are two suppressed parishes, Kailzie and Dawick, each being RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS. 255 civilly as well as ecclesiastically merged in their respective adjoining parishes. The Presbytery of Peebles consists of twelve out of the fourteen parish ministers ; the remaining two, namely, the ministers of Skirling and the united parish of Broughton, Glenholm, and Kilbucho, pertain to the Presbytery of Biggar, in Lanarkshire. The number of parish schoolmasters within the county is fifteen ; for as Peebles is a royal burgh, the parish to which it belongs has no school of the parochial kind. Each of the fifteen schoolmasters is provided with a dwelling, a garden, and school- house by the heritors, and with an annual salary, payable equally by the heritors and the tenants in the respective parishes. The latest fixed table of salaries shews one of ^40, five of 4$, seven of $o, one of $$, and one of 70 the lowest being for Drummelzier, and the highest Innerleithen ; besides all which salaries, each schoolmaster is authorised to take certain school-fees. The schoolmasters also derive con- siderable emoluments by acting as session-clerks, inspectors of poor, and collectors of poor-rates, in their respective parishes. The heritors (land-proprietors) of each parish provide and maintain a church, also a manse and glebe, along with an annual stipend for the minister. The manses are generally good, being suitable as dwellings for a respectable family. The stipends vary from 150 to about ^300 per annum, according to circumstances. Those stipends which are mainly reckoned in grain, commuted into money payments, according to the average or fiar prices, fluctuate in amount ; but seldom has any of them been above .400 a year. A considerable number of the heritors in the county are Episcopalians ; a circumstance which makes no difference in the general desire to fulfil all proper obligations towards the Established Presbyterian system the harmony that prevails on this point being, indeed, an agreeable social feature ; though it may, at the same time, be admitted to be not a very wholesome state of things, in which, from convictions, habits, and feelings, the higher and other classes are so greatly separated on the score of religious observances. PEEBLES BURGH. PEEBLES occupies a beautiful situation on a peninsula formed at the junction of the Eddleston Water with the Tweed. The town consists of a main or High Street, with several lesser streets, and as in old Scottish towns that had been walled, a number of diverging lanes or closes. The closes on the north extend towards Eddleston Water, while those on the south point to the Tweed. On this southern side, the houses in the rear of the main street possess a delightful exposure, with pretty little gardens basking in the sun, and commanding a pleasant outlook to Newby Hills. At the foot of these gardens lies Tweed-green, an open strip of land bordering the river, with some villas at its eastern boundary ; near which, looking west- wards towards the bridge, the above sketch has been taken. The High Street, stretching from the parish church, which occupies the site of the ancient royal castle of Peebles, to the East Port, is broad and regular, and environed with neatly-built houses of two to three stories in height. Overhanging the town on the east, are the two finely-wooded hills of Venlaw and Janet's Brae. PEEBLES BURGH. 257 Such is Peebles Proper, or the New Town, as it is locally desig- nated. A separate collection of houses, known as the Old Town, occupies a rising-ground on the north of Eddleston Water ; while on the elevated grounds on the south side of the Tweed, there has, in recent times, been built a species of third town, which promises to exceed the others in dimensions. From the nature of its situation, Peebles has been under the necessity of connecting its detached parts by bridges, the more imposing of which is the lofty structure of five arches across the Tweed, erected, as previously mentioned, by a long and costly effort, about the end of the fifteenth century. This bridge, widened at the expense of the county in 1834, remains the great thoroughfare to the south, and from it is obtained a remarkably fine view westwards to Neidpath, and eastwards to the towering peak of the Lee Pen. The old town, as its name imports, is the more ancient seat of population. Here, probably, were pitched the Pebyll, or tents of the wandering Gadeni, whence the town derives its name ; and here, in medieval times, arose the church of St Andrew and the church of the Holy Cross. Until it was extended by modern additions, the old town appeared to be only the fragment of what had at one time covered a much larger space of ground, in which the present roadways are presumed to mark the lines of former streets. Perhaps, the most important street of all, was one connecting the two ecclesiastical establishments. A roadway, leading from an open space in the existing old town which had been the original market-place of the burgh, to the cross thoroughfare between the two churches, is now called the Lidgate, a corruption, it is believed, of Lych-gait, signifying the way by which the dead were carried to the churchyard the access to which, in ancient times, was on the east. By a small effort of imagination, we are therefore to contemplate the old town as having covered several fields behind the present houses, and as being the place of residence of a numerous body of clergy, including the abbot of Aberbrothock, when, with a retinue of monks, he visited the hostilagium connected with his convent. Q 258 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Although a place of some dignity until the Reformation, when the ecclesiastical grandeur of Peebles was laid in ruin, the old town occupied so insecure a position, that, for the sake of better defence, the burghal authorities and principal inhabitants had at a much earlier period removed to the peninsula on the south, and there, under shelter of the royal castle, extended their dwellings east- wards. It is feasible to conjecture that as early as the reign of David I., the new town, though small, had assumed a regular shape, with a castle, mill, and chapel clustering together at its western extremity. An environing wall with gates was the work of a later period, when the destructive wars, consequent on the death of Alexander III., succeeded by disastrous border incursions, caused the burgesses to employ every available means of defence, including the erection of bastel-houses. It is certain that, from the battle of Flodden, 1513, until about the end of the seventeenth century, Peebles was surrounded by a wall, provided with gates or ports, which were guarded as a public duty. In the work of Blaew, 1654, the town is described as having three churches, three streets, and three ports, all afterwards, along with some other ternary characteristics, commemorated in the well- known lines of Dr Pennecuik : ' PEEBLES, the metropolis of the shire, Six times three praises doth from me require ; Three streets, three ports, three bridges it adorn, And three old steeples by three churches borne. Three mills to serve the town in time of need, On Peebles Water and the river Tweed. Their arms are proper, and point forth their meaning, Three salmon fishes nimbly counter-swimming. ' As regards ports, the lines are not quite correct ; for there were four instead of three. The town-wall began at the West Port, near the castle, and ran eastwards along the north side of the green, but within the present line of garden-boundary, till it ascended the Vennel to the East Port. It then con- tinued by a curved line to the northern gate or port, where commenced the northern entrance to the town, called the North- gait, now modernised into Northgate. The wall now descended PEEBLES BURGH. 259 on the inside of Usher's Wynd to the border of Eddleston Water. It then went southwards along the side of this small river till it was connected with the outworks of the castle ; but about the middle of this stretch stood a gate or port, forming the inlet to the Brig-gait, now called Briggate. Besides these principal gateways, there were several of a smaller kind for the convenience of foot-passengers. One of these was at the foot of St Michael's Wynd, opening on Eddleston Water, and another communicated with the green. It is learned from the town books that considerable portions of the old wall were not gone till past the middle of last century. Certain old ruinous tenements bought by the burgh in 1752, in order to clear a site for a town-house and school, are described as ' comprehending the whole close and yards down to the town- wall upon Tweed-green.' B. R. In 1758, the council 'resolve to take down the West Port, and level the port-brae,' in order to make a more commodious entrance to the town. B. R. Cleared away by these and other operations, the wall generally disappeared about the year 1800, leaving only a few fragments, the largest of which near the East Port has already been referred to. The three streets are, of course, the High Street, Northgate, and Old Town. The three bridges are Tweed Bridge and two across Eddleston Water ; though, strictly speaking, there are five, by including two of a minor kind. Of the history of Tweed Bridge, we have presented some particulars ; but of that across Eddleston Water, near the church (lately superseded by a new bridge), no accurate account can be given. Our belief is, that it had no existence when the town was in a defensible state with walls. At that period, the access from the old to the new town was chiefly by the Briggate, towards which, as the records shew, there was a thoroughfare, called Brig-house-knowe, a name now corrupted into Biggies-knowe. There was a minor access by a ford across Eddleston Water, at the foot of St Michael's Wynd. The three steeples of Peebles were those of St Andrew's Church, 260 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the Cross Church, and the Chapel of the Virgin. The steeple of this last-mentioned edifice, at the west end of the High Street (opposite the office of the Union Bank), was that which contained ' ye knok,' purchased by fines in 1462, and also the bell which, besides calling together the council, summoned the inhabitants three times every week to pay the cess or government tax stented by the quarter-masters. This old steeple was further of use in having a, vaulted apartment, which, as auxiliary to the tolbooth, served the purpose of a prison. Of the mills, one was a wauk-mill on Eddleston, or, as it is sometimes called, Peebles, Water ; and the other two, a malt and meal mill, were on the Tweed, near the castle. From frequent references in the burgh records to the malt-mill and to breweries, we conclude that in past times a considerable quantity of ale was made for the use of the inhabitants, and that the quality and price of the article were protected by heavy penalties. The arms of the town, referred to in the lines of Pennecuik, consist of a shield with three fishes, proper, counter-swimming that is, one swimming up and two down the stream, as indicating the increase by spawning ; with the motto, CONTRA NANDO INCRE- MENTUM (Increase by swimming against the flood). The figure of St Andrew with his cross is some- times introduced as crest ; such being evidently traced to the patron saint of the original parish church. The Fig- 23. Burgh Seal. arms without the crest, with the date 1682, continue to be borne on the seal of the burgh, of which we offer a representation. Peebles, as has been said, suffered a blow by the Act of Union, about which time it seems to have dropped into that peaceful and languishing condition from which it is only now effectually recovering. It was about the conclusion of the tasteful period, that the market-cross of the burgh, which figures at various times PEEBLES BURGH. 26l in its history, was renovated, and received that picturesque form which it bore within the recollection of the present writer. Standing in the centre of the street, opposite the head of the Northgate, the cross consisted of an octagonal shaft of stone, three feet three inches in circumference, and about twelve feet high, with an ornamental capital, sur- mounted by a sun-dial with four faces, bearing at the corners the date 1699. Above the dial was an iron vane, in which were the open figures 1662. The shaft rose from the centre of a paved platform, or roof of an octagonal building, about ten feet high, and twelve feet across. An access to the platform was gained by a door and inner flight of steps. The sides of the octangular substructure being of plain ashlar, and the platform being unprovided with a railing, there was nothing attractive in point of architecture, yet the whole had a good effect. To enhance its appearance, the shaft was decorated on four sides with carved shields, and in the floral ornaments of the capital might be recognised the cinquefoil of the Frasers of Neidpath, and the three fish as the cognizance of the burgh. The cross, so constructed, was useful to the town according to the usages of a past era. Offenders were set upon it as a pillory, and from it royal and other procla- mations were made. Around it were circled the gentlemen of the town and county to drink the king's health at every recur- ring birthday of His Majesty ; it being the practice on such occasions for each gentleman to throw away his glass over his head when the health was drunk, greatly to the delight of the Fig. 29. Cross of Peebles, 1699. 262 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. surrounding crowd, who tried to catch the glasses as they fell the exhilaration of the scene being increased by shouts mingled with strains from the town-piper and such other music as was at command. 1 With incidents of this festive kind, also the horse-races at Beltane, the competitions of the Royal Archers, and the merriment of several annual fairs, we have to enliven the somewhat dull routine of life in Peebles throughout the greater part of the eighteenth century. What became of the old castle of Peebles, once the residence of royalty, is left unexplained by any record which we have been able to consult. The last time we see it mentioned is in the Rental Book of the Earl of Tweeddale's estates, which is dated 'Peebles Castle, 26th April 1671 till 1685.' a Peebles Castle therefore existed, though perhaps in a decayed condition, until near the close of the seventeenth century, and shortly afterwards sinking to ruin, it would probably be removed as building materials. Certainly, it was gone at the commencement of the eighteenth century. In 1720, the town-council ordered 'the banks round the castle-hill to be planted with trees.' Subse- quently, a portion of the cleared site of the castle was laid out as a public bowling-green ; and the remaining part continued to be occupied with some inferior buildings and a stack-yard until the space was required for the new parish church. B. R. At the building of the prison, some of the foundations of the castle were disclosed. Resuming the history of the burgh at the point it was broken off, we are introduced to a personage who was long well known in the world of fashion, Lord William Douglas, Earl of March and Ruglen, who after- wards became fourth Duke of Queensberry. Born in 1725, in the family mansion in Peebles, the earl, while still a young man residing in London, appears to have constituted himself political adviser to the town- council, over which, from his territorial advantages, his patronage of the parish, and other circumstances, he exercised apparently a complete 1 Information from an aged lady, who remembered the health of George II. being dnmk in this manner in' 1758. a Inventory of Writings produced by Robert Taylor, a claimant in the Polmood case. PEEBLES BURGH. 263 thraldom. On all occasions of elections of members of parliament for the district of burghs, his lordship courteously wrote to the provost of Peebles, intimating whom he wished to be placed in nomination, and only on some special ground were his wishes ever neglected. Out of many instances of this interference with the freedom of election, one may be given. When, in 1754, the Honourable Mr Carmichael declined to offer himself again as a candidate, on the score of bad health, his lordship brought forward another of his nominees, Mr Murray of Philiphaugh, a former member, favourably known by his contribution of ;ioo to bring water into the burgh. On this occasion, the following letter was received by the provost, and communicated to the council. ' London, y>th March 1754. SIR Mr Murray of Philiphaugh proposes to offer himself as candidate for your district of burghs. I hope you and the council will approve of this intention, and think him a fit person to represent you in parliament. His birth, fortune, and good character, I doubt not, will sufficiently recommend him. His being my friend will, I flatter myself, likewise incline you to serve him. Be assured, you can never do anything more agreeable to me, and I do the more earnestly recommend him to your friendship and assistance, as I am well satisfied you cannot fix upon a more worthy representative, or on one who will be more willing or more able to serve you. Upon this occasion, I cannot help repeating to you and the council the assurance I have often made you of my inclination to be useful to you. I daresay, every man in Peebles is convinced of the particular affection I must have to the town, where I was born, and every one must see that by your situation, whatever services I can do you, must in the end not only tend to my honour but to my advantage. I am your most obedient and assured friend, MARCH and RUGLEN.' B. R. Murray was returned. For this and similar transactions, the inhabit- ants were not answerable. The nomination of members of parliament, until the Reform Act, was in the hands of the town-council, which con- sisted of a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and thirteen councillors, making in all seventeen. The election of the council took place yearly, on the first Monday after Michaelmas, much on the plan of the old electing the new members, the only person nominated through exterior influences being the deacon of the corporation of weavers. Substantially, the council were elected, as well as regulated in their proceedings, by the provost. We are also to recollect, that the business of the council was for a lengthened period conducted with profound secrecy ; to enforce which an oath appears to have been insti- tuted, in 1766, during the long incumbency of Provost Francis Russell. From this date, for about thirty-four years, all the members of council, 264 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. at each annual election, swore the following oath of secrecy, imme- diately after taking the oaths of allegiance and assurance : 'I, , Do hereby Promise and Declare upon oath before God and the remanent members of this Council, and that without any mental reservation or prevarication, that I shall not Disclose or make known to any person whatever, by word or write, or any other manner of way whatsoever, any Secrets or Debates of this Council : That is, how or in what manner any Member shall vote for or against any affair, cause, or business, that shall come before them, nor the reasons and arguments that shall be used and advanced by any Member of Council.' B. R, Subscribed by all the members and town-clerk. 1759, Nov. 1 6. William Malcolm applies to the council for assistance to enable him to dig for coal, of which ' he has good hopes,' at Windy- lawsburnfoot. It is agreed to let him have 'three hands upon the town's expense for two weeks.' The council afterwards allow him wood to prop the sides of his pits. B. R. This was a vain effort ; no coal was discovered, nor possibly could be. Hitherto, Peebles had derived no little celebrity from its Beltane festival, which, including horse-races, archery, and other sports, took place on the level plain on the south bank of the Tweed, known as Whitehaugh Muir. Unmindful of the value of traditions, which are in themselves a property not purchasable with money, the town did not, as it seems to us, make any particular effort to preserve this interesting inheritance. After passing through various hands, the Whitehaugh Muir had for some time formed part of the estate of Haystoun, and as such the town had paid yearly to the tenant the sum of ten merks Scots, for its use at Beltane. The land coming into the management of Dr James Hay, he began to enclose and improve it in a manner which rendered it unfit for the customary festivities. At first, the town gave little heed to these operations, but at length taking the matter up, the council feigned to crave the opinion of a lawyer on the subject. On the iyth of February 1766, a memorial is copied into the records, repre- senting that the town from time immemorial has used the Whitehaugh Muir for its Beltane and other races, ' which have drawn large numbers of persons from all parts of the kingdom,' and it is important to know ' what measures the town should take to recover its right and privilege to the said courses and muir.' B. R. This memorial does not appear to have been sent to any lawyer, and there is no more about it. Having twenty-seven years earlier dispossessed itself of King's Muir, the town was now left without a sufficiently large space of ground whereon to hold the great annual gathering. An ancient festival, commemorated by two royal poets, and from which alone the town derived any celebrity, was therefore suffered to die out ' Peebles to the Play ' was extinct. PEEBLES BURGH. 265 1769, April 4. The council have under consideration a letter from the Earl of Traquair, asking a subscription to help him to build a bridge over the Quair, which he says will be of great use in facilitating the transit of meal from Selkirk to Peebles market, by way of Minchmoor. A subscription of six guineas is ordered to be given from the funds of the burgh. B. R. 1770, Oct. 10. Mr James Montgomery, Lord Advocate, having pointed out the great advantage of having a proper road from Peebles to the border of Midlothian, in the direction of Edinburgh, a general sub- scription is entered into for the purpose of effecting this improvement by means of a turnpike act; in aid of which the burgh subscribes ten guineas. B. R. Such is the first notice of the present road to Edin- burgh, the previous thoroughfare, up and down hill, and circuitous in a strange manner, being barely passable by wheeled carriages. The road, for example, on leaving Peebles, proceeded uphill to Venlaw House, and then along the heights, descending here and there, and at last quitting the county near Portmore. The two steepest ascents were those to Venlaw and Windylaws. For such roads, four horses were necessary ; and at best, the average progress was about three miles an hour. It is related by tradition, that Mr James Montgomery, when arriving from Edinburgh by this route, came thundering down the road from Venlaw to Peebles in his four-horse carriage. 1771, March 18. James Ritchie, town-piper, petitions the council for a salary. He says ' that he had been the town-servant for thirty years, without having any allowance but a house and garden. He has ten children, five of them still in family with him, and cannot do for them- selves. It has been with great difficulty he has brought them up ; which necessitates him to apply for a small salary' to be settled upon him.' Prayer of petition granted. ' In consideration of his numerous family, and that he does his duty regularly, the council allow him five shillings sterling, quarterly.' B. R. In making this allowance, the council doubt- less kept in view that the piper enjoyed fees for playing at weddings and other festivities ; and that, according to usage, he would receive many friendly gifts at Hogmanay. Latterly, in addition to the above handsome salary of a pound per annum, the town kept him in a suit of clothes, red and of an antique cut, with a cocked-hat. On a fresh petition, he received a pair of shoes, yearly. Piper Ritchie, who was a kind of oddity, died a very old man, July 1807, and had no successor in his office. 1772, July 27. It is represented by the provost, that about two weeks ago, Alexander Murderson, tenant in Wormiston, and John Millar, his sen-ant, had been brought to Peebles on a charge of stealing sheep from William Gibson, in Newby, and Thomas Gibson, in Grieston, and 266 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. lodged in the vault in the steeple, which being very insecure, needs to be guarded night and day. The council order new locks and a guard. B. R. Dec. 9. The members of the corporation of tailors petition the magistrates and council to statute and ordain that the hours of working at the houses of employers shall be from six in the morning till six in the evening in summer, and from eight till eight in winter. Prayer of petition granted. B. R. This is one out of numerous entries of the same kind, shewing the control which the council at one time exercised over the incorporated trades. The tailors of Peebles, as in the country parts of Scotland generally, continued to work in the houses of their employers, for several years within the present century, when the practice declined. 1773, Jan. 3. Letter read from Walter Scott, writer to the signet, Edinburgh [father of the celebrated Sir Walter], intimating a gift to the town of ^25 sterling from Sir James Cockburn, baronet (recently appointed member), for behoof of the poor of the burgh. Mr Scott says : ' It will be very convenient for you to send an order to some person here to receive the money from me, as it is not safe trusting it with carriers.' Thanks of the council ordered, and meal is to be bought with the amount, and distributed among the poor. B. R. On two occasions afterwards, gifts of the same amount are intimated by Mr Scott; and both times meal is purchased and distributed. From these and other entries, it would appear that the privilege of electing a member of parliament was useful as an aid towards supporting the poor. At the rate of ^25 per burgh, Sir James Cockburn must have paid ;ioo, in name of donations, at each election. But his presents were not confined to money. 1781, Feb. 17. 'Provost Reid acquainted the council that he had lately received from Mr Walter Scott, as Doer for Sir James Cockburn, a bagpipe as a present from Sir James to the town, which was exhibited in council.' 1 B, R. Aug. 23. Rev. W. Dalgleish, parish minister, is requested by the council to desist from pasturing the churchyard with his horse and cows; and to exclude him, a lock is placed on the gate. B. R. 1775, March 25. The council have under consideration 'the great necessity there is for a hangman to reside in the town,' unanimously agree, that if a proper person can be had, they will engage him, and give him a proper salary over and above the fees belonging to that office. B.R, 1 One should not too readily smile at these gifts ; for in accepting them Peebles was no way singular. Until our own times, the member for Edinburgh gave a plate of fifty guineas, to be run for at the yearly races. As derogatory alike to giver and receiver, Mr Macaulay declined to perpetuate practices of this nature. PEEBLES BURGH. 267 Aug. 31. The council appoint five persons for the respective quarters of the town ' to be apprysers or Birleymen within the burgh for the ensuing year.' They are to attend and give their oath, de fideli. B. R. Previously (March 29, 1736), there is an entry respecting the appoint- ment of Birleymen for the old town. We have heard of no other instance of Birleymen being appointed in a royal burgh. In old Scottish baronies, Birleymen were an inferior class of officials, whose duty con- sisted in keeping order and settling petty disputes amicably. Being in Peebles designated ' apprysers,' they probably exercised the duty of authorised valuators. Oct. 24. The council, hearing that other town-councils are sending addresses to George III., expressive of sympathy with His Majesty, on account of the rebellion of his American subjects, cordially agree to send a loyal address to the king, in which they state, ' that it is with the utmost abhorrence and detestation we see a rebellion carried on in some of your Majesty's colonies, instigated and promoted by a seditious and evil-minded faction at home.' B. R. Let those who impute the loss of the American colonies to the obstinacy of George III., keep such addresses in remembrance. 1776, Jan. 15. The steeple is ordered to be taken down as ruinous, and the rubbish sold. B. R. 1778, Feb. 9. At the request of Mr Haig of Bemerside, the council contribute five guineas towards the cost of a bridge over Leader Water foot, then just finished. B. R. Dec. 29. The council, in conjunction with the heritors, agree to the proposition of building a new church, betwixt the bowling-green and the street. The town to be at the expense of building the steeple and furnishing it with a clock and bells, for which it is to be the property of the burgh. Shortly afterwards, the council stake off the site on the Castle-hill ; and a plan by Mr Brown, architect, is approved of. B.R. 1779, Aug. 26. The provost reports that he had caused the town- officer to apprehend an able-bodied man fit for His Majesty's service, and take him hand-cuffed to Edinburgh, but that the officer while on the way had taken drink and removed the hand-cuffs, whereby the man escaped. The council authorise the officer to be dismissed. B. R. Nothing seems to have been charged against the ' able-bodied man ; ' the provost merely saw in him an object fit to be impressed for the naval service, for which, at this time, men were urgently in request. 1779. This year, Peebles partook of the general frenzy, caused by the proposal to remove the disabilities of Roman Catholics in Scotland. The town-council, and also the several incorporated trades (Jan. 28) petitioned both houses of parliament against the relief bill ; and to aid 268 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the opposition, the trades, by small sums from each, contributed ^14, ios. to be forwarded to the central committee in Edinburgh. B. R. To its great honour, the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale refused to join in the popular clamour, or to petition against what now all consider to have been an act of justice and humanity. 1780, Feb. 19. A pump-well ordered to be dug in the old town, at the end of the Lidgate. B. R. 1783, Jan. 25. The church being built, it is discovered that the steeple, which all expected to be the pride of the town, instead of being finely tapered, according to the plan, bulges out in a very extraordinary way. Mr Robert Burn, architect, being sent for and consulted about it, declares that the plan has been ' shamefully departed from.' Unfortu- nately, the work cannot be undone and properly executed over again, except at an expense which the contractors, two masons in the town, are unable to encounter. Subject drops B. R. The steeple remains an eyesore till the present day. 1789. Adam Peacock petitions the council to erect a snuff-mill for him, adjoining the wauk-mill ; they decline doing so. B. R. Peacock was a manufacturer of tobacco in the town, and afterwards removed to Edinburgh. 1791. A meeting-house is built at the Gytes for a secession congre- gation, which had existed in the town for a few years, and for which Rev. Thomas Leckie was ordained minister in 1794. 1792. Wild ideas about liberty and equality, projected by the French Revolution, having reached Peebles, and affected some young men, the council take the subject into consideration, and declare their horror of ' the seditious writings and open efforts of the turbulent and designing for the subversion of our present, and in favour of republican government.' B. R. Feb. 27. 'William Kerr, distiller and brewer within the royalty of Peebles,' states by petition that he has carried on business for several years, but is like to be ruined by the exaction of multures by the tacksman of the town-mills, who holds him to a thirlage for all the grain he uses. Council decline to interfere. B. R. This is the first time we hear of Kerfield Brewery, which was long a flourishing concern. Subsequently, Jan. 21, 1801, the council have brought before them the fact that bakers in the town get their grain ground at Kerfield, to the great damage of the town-mill. The subject being laid before an eminent lawyer for his opinion, he decides that bakers in the town who grind at Kerfield Mill are liable in the multures exigible by the tacks- man of the town-mill. B. R. How strange to find that, within the present century, there was an imperative legal obligation to employ only the mill belonging to the burgh. PEEBLES BURGH. 269 March 17. A petition is presented by 'John Kennedy, baker,' 1 and four others, to be allowed to extend their gardens towards the green, in the same manner as several who dwelt west from them had done previously. This privilege was granted for a small compensation. In 1799, 'William Gibson, son of the deceast William Gibson,' and seven others, make a similar application, and receive the like permission. In 1809, the last of these extensions takes place. B, R. We particularise these encroachments on the green, because they were all from forty to fifty feet beyond the town-wall, which proceeded in a slanting direction, from closely behind the houses at the West Port, to the foot of the Vennel, where alone the original line is now discernible. The school- house, which was built exterior to the wall, determined the present garden boundary. There is no mention in the books of the building of a small house outside the wall, which used to be named, perhaps not inappropriately, ' Cabbage Hall.' May 26. Charles Rogers appointed ' hangman, or deputy-executer of the law,' at the common salary. B. R, We have heard of no instance in which Rogers acted as executioner ; his principal duties consisted in whipping and placing offenders on the pillory. He eked out his small salary by officiating as a town-crier, for which he used a hand-bell to draw public attention. His dress, provided by the town, consisted of a dark-blue coat, with white facings. We cannot refrain from adding the following, which appears under date April 26, 1803. 'Appoint the treasurer to procure a suit of new clothes for Charles Rogers, hangman, the cloth not to exceed three shillings and fourpence a yard ; and also to furnish him with a new shirt and a new pair of shoes and stockings, to equip him for his marriage.' B. R. Was ever hangman's marriage so cared for? Charley, a respectable man in his way, died within our recollection, and had no successor. 1795. Mr Alexander Brodie of Carey Street, London, sends ten guineas to the poor, and besides gives ^5 a year to the burgh school- master to teach poor scholars. B. R. 1796. School-fee per quarter for reading, writing, and arithmetic, which had been fixed at is. in 1782, is now raised to is. 6d. for reading, and 2s. including writing and arithmetic. B. R. Fifteen years later, the fee was only zs. 3 los. By an arrangement with Sir Adam Hay, Mr Erskine resigned a portion of the Venlaw Hill which had been acquired by Grant from the soum-holders of Peebles, whereupon it was planted and laid out for villas in the manner it now appears. Adjoining Venlaw, or only separated from it by a few fields, lies Kcrfield, which, for convenience, we will take next in order. Lying under the shelter of the wooded height called Janet's Brae, and fronting the river at the point where it receives Soonhope Burn, Kerfield is one of the prettiest and best situated small 1 Venlaw Papers. 2 The history of family burying-places would be curious if it could be told. The Erskines of Venlaw use a burial enclosure at the Cross Church, called ' Morton's Aisle.' As the Laird of Smithfield, about 1624, acquired lands in the parish, which, in 1567, had belonged to James Douglas, Earl of Morton, it seems probable that, through that means, the aisle in question came by usage into the present family. PEEBLES PARISH. 331 properties about Peebles. It is what is usually described as ' a made place ;' for it is an aggregation of a number of detached pieces of land, bought at different times ; the whole, at con- siderable expense, subsequently improved and beautified. The merit of this transformation is, in the first place, due to a family named Kerr, resident for many years in Peebles. The first purchase was that of Bordlehaugh, a strip of land lying on the side of Tweed, which was bought from the Earl of March by William Kerr in 1730. Kerr is designated 'merchant in Fig. 45. Kerfield House. Peebles ;' from which we understand that he was a shopkeeper in the town, and subsequent transactions shew that he was successful in business, and economical in his habits. In 1747, at which time he was Dean of Guild, he acquired other two acres of land at Soonhope, along with a rood called Browne's Rood. His son, William Kerr, improved upon these beginnings, by purchasing, between 1766 and 1780, the piece of land called Sandbed, and six roods of land eastward of Peebles, with two acres of burgage property, and parts of what was termed Little 332 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Ormiston. 1 In effecting these purchases to round off his property on Soonhope, Mr Kerr may have entertained the scheme which he afterwards executed, of transferring to the spot a brewery and distillery, which he carried on in premises in Peebles. There, hampered in various ways, he at length removed to his small territorial possession outside the town, which he designated Kerfield ; and here extending his brewery, was, as we have seen, vexed with litigations about multures to the burgh mill, in 1792. But William Kerr was a man not easily daunted. He outlived this sort of persecution, and brought Kerfield Brewery into high repute. In the early years of the present century, the concern had attained to a prosperous condition ; the manufacture being possibly benefited by the copious supply of fine water from Soonhope Burn. Afterwards, when the business came into the hands of Mr Aitchison, it was wholly removed to Edinburgh. The brewing premises were then mostly taken down ; and the place altered into what we now see it a gentleman's seat and pleasure-grounds. At the death of Mr Kerr, the property was acquired by his eldest son, John Kerr, writer to the Signet, from whom it passed to his sisters in 1839. By them the lands of Kerfield and Whitestone Knowe were disposed of the same year to Robert Gillespie, of Hundleshope, a merchant in London. From Mr Gillespie, the property was, in 1845, acquired by William Mitchell Kerr, a West India merchant, by whom, in 1849, ^ was sold to Anthony Nichol, its present proprietor and occu- pant, for (as is said) about 7000. The valued annual rental of Kerfield is ^104. Mr Nichol is also proprietor of Glenbreck and Riggs, in Tweedsmuir parish. Returning to Venlaw : Here, begins the estate of Haystoun, which is projected eastwards to the border of the parish, and includes Soonhope and Eshiels ; after which, crossing the Tweed, it extends westwards, so as to embrace King's Meadows, White- haugh, Haystoun, Newbie, Glensax, Bonnington, Crookston, part 1 Kerfield Papers. PEEBLES PARISH. 333 of Caidmuir, some lands about King's Muir, and Bridgelands at the southern extremity of Tweed Bridge, also Hundleshope, in the parish of Manor. The whole lying like a crescent to the east and south of Peebles, and disposed as pastoral or arable farms, with large portions covered with wood, takes rank as one of the principal estates in the county. The family of the Hays, its present possessors, is of considerable antiquity, but has passed through some remarkable vicissitudes. It traces its descent from John Hay, third Lord Yester; and as the Lords Yester were descended from Simon Fraser of Neidpath, by the marriage of their ancestor, Sir Gilbert Hay, with one of his daughters, the Hays of Haystoun are the living representatives within the county of the great Scottish patriot. John Hay, the third baron, was twice married an exceedingly common thing in Peeblesshire. His second wife was daughter and heiress of John Dickson of Smithfield. While the Yester family was carried on by the children of the first marriage, the family of Smithfield was continued by the second, of which the eldest son was John Hay, who succeeded to his mother's property in 1525, and added to it the lands of Swynhope or Soonhope in 1549. He had three sons, James, Thomas, and John. James, dying without issue, was succeeded by Thomas, who died previous to 1570, leaving two sons John, who succeeded him, and Thomas, whose issue, if he had any, became extinct. John, now Laird of Smithfield, added to his possessions by purchasing Eshiels, which had belonged to James Douglas, Earl of Morton, in 1567, also the wild valley behind it called Glentress such having, probably, been at one time a portion of the common of that name. This acquisition was about 1624, at which time the Chapel Yards of St Leonards seems also to have come into the family. John was succeeded by his only surviving son, James, who, by patent dated July 20, 1635, was created a baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles I. After this event, amidst civil dissensions, and possibly through some degree of improvi- dence, the family lost the whole of its property ; and Sir James, the third baronet, died in very reduced circumstances in 1683. 334 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Smithfield had now passed from the Hays, to whom it never returned, and the original stock was alone represented by the descendants of John, the third son of Lord Yester, and the heiress of Smithfield, to whom we revert. John Hay appears to have purchased some crofts of the Cross Kirk and also King's Meadows, in 1570. Dying in 1602, he was succeeded by his son Andrew, a writer to the Signet in Edinburgh. Father Hay records the jocular tradition, that the Hays of Tweeddale have always been remarkable for making their fortune by marriage. 1 But with as much justice, it might be said that they have been indebted to professional industry, and a right application of means. Andrew Hay, the successful man of business, helped greatly to give territorial distinction to the family. In 1635, he purchased the lands of Henderstoun, which he designated Haystoun ; in the same year, he acquired the adjoining property of Glensax from Govan of Cardrona ; and Newbie appears to have been bought about the same time. These various lands, with King's Meadows, constituted the nucleus of the present estate. Andrew died in 1655, and was succeeded by his eldest son, John Hay of Haystoun, advocate and principal clerk of Session, by whom and his son and successor John, the family property was extended. Yet, reckoned according to our money value, how small was 1 ' It is to be observed that the whole fortune of this familie came by marriages, and whatever hath been purchas'd, was by the selling of land that had come in that way ; in consideration whereof, Charles Hay, present Lord Yester [third Marquis of Tweeddale, 1713], made the following verses : " Aulam alii jactent, felix Domus Yestria, nube, Nam quze sors aliis, dat Venus alma tibi." ' [ Translation : Let others boast of court influence ; thou, happy House of Yester, hast only to marry ; for the good things that Fortune bestows on others, benign Venus gives to thee.] Genealogie of the Hayes of Tweeddale, p. 39. Father Hay does not seem to have been aware that Lord Yester's verses are but an adaptation of the following well-known epigram on the fortunes of the House of Austria, ascribed to Matthias Corvinus (who died 1490) : ' Bella gerant alii ; tu, felix Austria, nube ; Nam quae Mars aliis, dat tibi regna Venus. ' Translation : Let others wage war ; thou, happy Austria, hast only to marry ; for the kingdoms that Mars bestows on others, Venus gives to thec. PEEBLES PARISH. 335 still the rent-roll of the Hays ! In the county valuation of 1657, the 'free rent of the Laird of Haystoun' is put down at ,486, 5^. lod. Scots something under 37 sterling. It was not, therefore, by means of rental, but by professional gains that the Hays expanded from the condition of small lairds to that of considerable land-proprietors. It was, seemingly, either the advocate or his son who built the family mansion at Haystoun, which, situated amidst some fine old trees on a knoll overhanging Haystoun Burn, and forming, with offices, three sides of a square, presents a good example of a superior Scottish country-seat two hundred years ago. Over the chief entrance is a stone tablet bearing the arms of the family, with the date 1660, and some initials, as shewn in the adjoining cut (fig. 46). The house is distant about a mile and a half south from Peebles. About the period at which it was erected, the Haystoun family acquired by purchase possibly by paying off wadsets or mortgages some of the possessions of the unfortunate Smithfield branch, among which were Eshiels and Chapel Yards, also several lesser properties near Peebles. Another important acquisition was White- haugh, which, by a disposition from the Traquair family, became the property of John Hay in 1679.' John, the son of the advocate, was succeeded by his son John, who married Janet, daughter of Sir Alexander Murray of Blackbarony, and had a family of four sons and seven daughters. Of these daughters, Jean, Anne, Grizel, and Helen were married ; Helen was the grandmother of the present Mrs Horsbrugh of Horsbrugh. Of the sons, John and James, the two elder, need only be referred to. John died before his father, without issue, and the succession devolved on James, who was a physician 1 Haystoun Papers, on which our statements are generally founded. 336 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. in Edinburgh. By the death of his father, he entered on possession of the Haystoun estate in 1762. His wife, a daughter of Campbell of Greenyards, died in 1770, and ever afterwards he remained a widower. Peeblesshire has produced few better managers of property than Dr Hay. Active, intelligent, and far-sighted, he made good purchases, and throwing himself into the movement for enclosing and improving lands, did much to extend and consolidate the interests of his family. In a list of his properties, 1775, we see Waddinshope or Walthamshope, the subject of dispute between Robert Cruik and the burgesses of Peebles in 1262. Waddins- hope, Glensax, and Newbie, all lie to the south of Haystoun, whence they stretch away among the hills, constituting wild pastoral solitudes. Two of the hills, hereabouts, particularly prominent in the view southwards from Peebles, culminate in peaks, known as Newbie Kips. Another feature in the landscape is an ancient drove-road, winding like a green ribbon among the woods, and leading southwards to Yarrow and the English border. The whole scenery of Haystoun Burn, from where it leaves the glen at Newbie till it falls into the Tweed, is charmingly rural and picturesque. One of the prettiest spots is near the old farmhouse of Newbie, which stands on the west side of the Glen (now partly occupied by an artificial lake), and offers a fair specimen of the second stage of improvement reached by houses of its class. In front of it, on a cleared space, stood the original farmhouse, a thatched cottage of two apartments, which, with some surrounding natural features, has invited the notice of a native versifier : ' In Newby Dell, the sweet blue-bell, And wild-thyme, scent revealing, Now mark the spot, a humble cot, Thy grandsire's mined shieling. ' 1 Newbie, now included in the farm of Bonnington, affords 1 An allusion is here made to William Gibson, who, as tenant-farmer, quitted Newbie (with a small fortune) about 1780. While occupied as a store-farm by Mr Gibson, a number of sheep were stolen from Newbie by a person named Murdcrson, PEEBLES PARISH. 337 an instance of the timidity of the old farmers in this part of the country. In 1790, on the occasion of a proposed rise of rent, it was advertised as consisting of 3200 Scots acres, which had hitherto been possessed at below is. 6d. per acre. The war-prices which ensued shortly afterwards, left no room for regret to those who ventured on exceeding this rental. Dr Hay is entitled to be called the maker of Whitehaugh and King's Meadows in their present aspect of well-fenced, planted, and, in other respects, improved lands ; for, previous to his time, they were little else than an open moor. Throughout his rural operations, he continued to reside in New Street, Canongate, where his house was kept, and family superintended, by Miss Peggy, one of his three unmarried sisters. Here, pursuing his professional labours, the doctor only now and then visited the country to attend to improvements on his estate, or to negotiate some bargain about patches of land with the town-council of Peebles, for which his command of ready money gave him peculiar advantages. It is likely enough, that at these times he occasionally took up his residence at Hay Lodge, which had been built about 1772, by his second son, Captain (afterwards Lieutenant-colonel) Adam Hay, or at King's Meadows, where his elder son, John Hay, a banker in Edinburgh, erected a dwelling in 1795, at the modest cost of 600. We can conceive, however, that the doctor's principal country quarters continued to be the old family mansion at Haystoun, which was occupied with some degree of style by his remaining maiden sisters, Miss Betty and Miss Ailie, paragons of neatness and great spinners of flax, each being provided with her own small wheel for the purpose on which important subject of manufacture 'the tenant in Wormiston (now Glenormiston), who, along with Millar his shepherd, and a dog called Yarrow, carried on a most extraordinary system of depredation Yarrow, as a humble agent, being most adroit in stealthily cutting off and bringing home such parcels of sheep, under night, as were indicated by a few words from his master. For this crime, Murderson and Millar were tried and convicted at Edinburgh, January 1773, and afterwards executed. The performances of Yarrow are quoted by writers in Natural History, as among the more remarkable instances of intelligence in dogs. V 338 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. leddies of Haystoun ' used occasionally to visit, and hold grave consultations with Mrs Gibson, the farmer's wife, in that old thatched ' but-and-ben ' edifice at Newbie. Besides his two sons, John and Adam, the doctor had a number of daughters, the eldest of whom, Elizabeth, was married to Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo, baronet. It can scarcely be doubted that, throughout his course of improvements and extensions of property, Dr Hay entertained a wish to revive the Smithfield baronetcy, which had been in abeyance since 1683. He began moving in the matter about 1804; and as the establishment of claims of this kind was then not so strict or formal as it is in our own day, he appears to have had little difficulty in satisfying a jury called together for the purpose at Peebles, November 9, 1805, that as a lineal descendant of John Hay of King's Meadows, third son of Lord Yester, and brother of the first baronet's grandfather, he was entitled to be the fourth baronet. Getting this matter satisfactorily settled, Sir James, as he was now called, did not long survive his new honour. He died in 1810, leaving a large family, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir John, who having been born in 1755, was past middle age when he entered into possession of the property. His second son, Adam, predeceased him, having died abroad, without issue, in 1795. Many will remember Sir John Hay, as being a fine specimen of the well-bred country gentleman, blended with the man of business. In 1774, he had been apprenticed in the banking-house of his brother-in-law, Sir William Forbes, at Edinburgh ; in which concern, he was assumed as a partner in 1782. Diligent in this pursuit, he made frequent visits to Peeblesshire, more particularly in his later years. In 1785, he married the Honour- able Mary Elizabeth, youngest daughter of James, sixteenth Lord Forbes, by whom he had eight sons and seven daughters. The family resided at King's Meadows, in the .600 house, but that at length getting too small and out of date, Sir John built an addition in front in 1811 ; the old mansion at Haystoun being meanwhile vacated by the venerable spinster aunts, who migrated PEEBLES PARISH. 339 to a flat in Chapel Street, 1 Edinburgh, where they peacefully concluded their days, enjoying till the last the pleasure of seeing the Fly jog deliberately along Nicolson Street, three times a week, to and from Peebles. After this desertion, Haystoun subsides into a residence of the factor on the estate. Affected with the extravagant notions on planting which prevailed in the early part of the present century, Sir John made that a favourite pursuit, covering large hill-tracts with wood, which, until lately, could find no market in a district unprovided with a cheap means of transit. He added greatly to the beauty and amenity of his farms. Eshiels, in particular, was laid out with exquisite taste, and may be pronounced the finest picture of a farm with farm-steading in the county. Within this farm is now comprehended the property of Chapel Yards, on which was situated the Hospital of St Leonards, alluded to in a previous part of the present work. This ancient ecclesiastical structure stood near the east side of the most easterly field, south from the public road, and within a short distance of Horsburgh Castle. The spot which it occupied is marked by a solitary tree, and on the roadside, at what had been the entrance to the grounds, still grows an ash, perhaps the largest in Peeblesshire, and seemingly not less than five hundred years old. In an estate of this kind, it is not easy to trace the manner in which particular parts were added, because names are changed, and one farm may comprehend what was formerly several distinct properties. Such is the case with Soonhope, which, formerly belonging to the Smithfield family, was recovered in detach- ments by Dr Hay. Originally Swynhope, this property forms a 1 Now called West Nicolson Street, in which their house was No. 2, first door in the stair, with windows looking into Nicolson Street. This is mentioned from personal recollections. The family to which the present writer belonged, on going to Edin- burgh in 1813, occupied a floor on the same level with the Misses Hay, but reached by a separate stair. The kitchen fireplaces of both dwellings being back to back, with a thin and imperfect wall between, the servant-girls of the two families, both exiles from Tweedside, were able to carry on comforting conversations, by removing a brick at pleasure in the chimney ; through which irregular channel much varied intelligence from Peebles was interchanged between the two families. The latest survivor of the Misses Hay died at the advanced age of ninety-nine. 34 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. fine pastoral valley, at the distance of about a quarter of a mile east from Peebles. On its eastern side, the heights are remarkable for several British forts, already alluded to ; and at its inner or northern extremity, where tower the conspicuous elevations called Shielgreen Kips, there are still visible, on a lofty knoll, the foundations of a medieval castle, reputed to have been a hunting- seat of one of the early Scottish kings. From the high grounds in this quarter, Peebles is now supplied with water. Another property of the same composite nature is Bonnington, which is made up of three different Bonningtons Bonnington Wylie, Bonnington Wood-grevington, and Bonnington Bullo. The last-mentioned evidently took its name from the family of Bullo or Bullock, who possessed it in 1527, and one of whom, ' Thomas Bullo in Bonnington,' appeared at the Weapon-show in 1627. He is, however, spoken of in the retours, 1637, as son of Patrick Bullo, portioner, and we infer that the family was declining in position. In 1678, John Hay of Haystoun bought part of the lands. Dr James Hay, in the course of his acquisi- tions, bought another portion in 1767; and his son, Sir John, purchased the remainder in 1824, when the whole three Bonningtons were coalesced. Bonnington, in its united form, and as incorporated with Newbie, is now provided with one of the more improved class of steadings. Adjoining the spot where the buildings have been placed, the land stretching along the hollow of the valley was in the condition of a morass interspersed with large pools, which are noticed as one of the features of the district in an old local rhyme : ' Bonnington lakes, And Crookston cakes, And Caidmuir on the Wrae, And hungry, hungry Hundleshope, And scaw'd Bell's Brae. ' Shortly after Sir John came into possession of the estate, he (1812) executed, at a cost of 500, a long and deep cutting for an open run of water, by which the ground was so effectually drained, that the lakes disappeared and the morass was dried up. PEEBLES PARISH. 34! In the present day, intersected with hedgerows dotted with trees, the land in the direction of Crookston and Hundleshopc exhibits a very pleasing appearance. Sir John effected sundry other improvements, and, more from the urgency of individuals than his own inclinations, purchased a number of small proper- ties in and about Peebles. One of these acquisitions was a field of five and a half acres, lying on the Waulk-mill dam, adjoining the Cross Church, called Bell's Dam Crofts, in a valuation-roll, 1709. Passing through various hands, and with the name changed to Dam-Dale, this finely situated field was possessed in 1802, and some few years later, by 'James Kerr, writer in Peebles,' remembered for his improvident eccentricities, through which the Dam-Dale claimed, in due course, a new owner, from whom it was purchased by Sir John Hay in 1826, for the sum of 700. It now forms a valuable feuing-ground, and is already well-nigh covered with houses. Sir John Hay died in 1830, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir John, the sixth baronet, elected member of parliament for Peeblesshire, 1832, and whose portrait, as Provincial Grand Master, hangs in the Mason Lodge, Peebles. He was married, but died without issue in 1838. He was succeeded by his brother, Adam, born 1795, and who, like his father, was bred as a banker in the house of Sir William Forbes and Company (a firm now merged in the Union Bank of Scotland). Animated with the same desire as. his predecessors to improve the family inhe- ritance, Sir Adam has, with some trouble and at considerable expense, been able to make some important acquisitions in order to extend and give compactness to the estate. In 1852, he gave Cardon, an outlying property, to Sir John Naesmyth in exchange for Crookston. Disposing of some other properties in a distant part of the county, he, in 1853, bought Hundleshope from Mr Gillespie for 15,000. Having likewise acquired a portion of Caidmuir from the Earl of Wemyss, the Haystoun estate was, so to speak, brought within a ring-fence, and placed under the eye of the proprietor. Such, in brief, is a history of the Hays and their possessions. Beginning with an insignificant property 342 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. in the sixteenth century, the family has, generation after generation, by a proper use of means and opportunities, gone on improving its inheritance, until the estate has attained to dimensions productive of a valued rental of 4137 per annum. Residing at King's Meadows with his numerous family, Sir Adam, in process of time, felt the necessity for an enlargement Fig. 47. King's Meadows. of the family mansion, which he effected by an addition at the back of the former edifices, in 1855. King's Meadows, therefore, consists now of an incongruous cluster of buildings, amidst which, the old 600 house, with its white rough-cast gable to the river, seems to be most uncomfortably squeezed. An idea of the mansion will be obtained from the above cut, fig. 47 ; the view being taken from the north bank of the Tweed, which flows, 'glitt'ring in the sunny beams,' under the windows of the house. The front commands a view of Peebles, half a mile distant on the west. EDDLESTON. EDDLESTON parish, adjoining that of Peebles in a northerly direction, extends about nine and a half miles from north to south, and about five and a half miles from east to west at its southern or broadest part. 1 The parish consists, nearly altogether, of the upper section of the strath of the small river, usually called Eddleston Water, which joins the Tweed at Peebles. At the south-eastern corner of the parish, towers aloft the conspicuous hill of Dundreich, which rises to a height of 2000 2 feet above the level of the sea. The northern division of the parish embraces the high ground, Ringside Edge, on the boundary of Midlothian, across which the turnpike-road is carried at a height of 931 feet above sea- level, 8 from which to Peebles there is a descent of 381 feet. The railway from Edinburgh crosses the hill at the same elevation. Road, railway, and river pursue a parallel route down the valley, which at one spot near Early Pier, is so narrow, that excavation from the side of the bank was necessary to admit of the line of railway. In former times, this was an important defensible pass. In the lower parts of the parish, disposed as arable fields, the land is now greatly improved. Cultivation has latterly also crept up the adjacent hills, for which much has been done 1 Superficies, 18,590. 223 acres. Ord. Stir. * Ibid 3 Ibid. 344 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. by enclosing, draining, and those sheltering woods and planta- tions that have sprung up through the good taste of several proprietors. As an outpost of Tweeddale, the hilly parts of the parish have offered favourable spots for British forts, defiant of invaders from the borders of the Firth of Forth. Of these ancient strengths, particularly Northshields and Milkiston Rings, some account has already been given. The most ancient name of this section of the vale of Eddleston was Penteiacob, under which appellation, at the beginning of the twelfth century, the lands belonged to the bishops of Glasgow. Somewhat later, the district becomes known as Gillemoreston, but this it did not long retain ; for, previous to 1189, the lands were granted to Eadulf, an Anglo-Saxon settler, from whom came the present designation Eadulf's ton, or corruptedly, Eddleston. Where the ton or toun l of Eadulf was placed, is uncertain. Probably, it occupied a spot now covered by a cluster of thatched dwellings near the parish church, which of old was a prebendal dependency of the cathedral of Glasgow. This fragmentary part of the ancient village is situated about the centre of the parish, on a rising ground on the east side of the valley. The present church is a new structure, dating from 1829. It is environed by a burying-ground, the best laid-out and neatest kept in the whole county. Beneath, on the banks of the small river, is situated the new village of Eddleston, built on a regular plan, about 1785. For nearly a century, the population of the parish has undergone little variation; in 1861, it was 753. According to the valuation roll, 1657, the annual rental of the parish was 327, 75. qd. sterling. In 1863, it was 8336, igs. 4^.; this amount being exigible chiefly as rents of the farms into which the lands are now divided. , Exclusive of those whose properties are valued at less than ;ioo per annum, there are only six proprietors ; and of these, three own by far the larger portion 1 In Peeblesshire, as in some other parts of Scotland, a cluster of buildings, as, for example, a farm-steading, is popularly called a toun, a signification borne out by the original Anglo-Saxon meaning of the word. EDDLESTON. 345 of the parish. The most noted estate is that of Darn Hall, the property of the Murrays, Lords Elibank. The name Darn Hall is modern ; or at least is employed for the first time in 1536. It has superseded the more historical designation, Blackbarony, which, however, was not the earliest by which the property is styled in the family writs. The oldest recorded name is Haltoun or Haldoun, now entirely unknown, or only distin- guishable in the corrupted form of Hatton-knowe, which is applied to one of the farms. Occasionally, the property was called Halton-Murray, to distinguish it probably from another Halton in possession of the Lauders, whose property, as far as we can judge, lay further down the valley. The Murrays, descended from the Moreffs or Moravias, who figure in the Ragman Roll, come into notice as proprietors in this quarter in the fourteenth century. At the beginning of the fifteenth, that is in 1412, a writ refers to ' George de Moravia Dominus de Halton;' and another writ, under date 1518, mentions 'the barony of Haltoun, alias the Blackbarony,' by which the two designations are identified as applying to the same property. 1 This ancient domain of Haltoun or Blackbarony was very extensive ; for it appears to have, at one time, embraced nearly the whole of the lands, north and south, in the upper section of the strath of Eddleston Water. For the sake of distinction, the estate was ordinarily divided into two parts. Blackbarony was that portion lying on the north or right bank of the Eddleston, while Whitebarony was that on the left ; but these were only terms of convenience ; the whole was but one property, possessed by the Murrays, whose residence was at Darn Hall, on the Blackbarony side of the valley. John Murray of Blackbarony, the eighth laird in the family roll, is reputed to have been a man of great bravery and forti- tude, qualities which he evinced by following James IV. to the fatal field of Flodden, and there perishing with him. He was succeeded by his only son, Andrew, who added to the family possessions by acquiring part of Ballencrief, in Haddingtonshire, a 1 Elibank Papers. 346 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. portion of which lands had been previously acquired by his father. From Andrew several lines of Murrays are descended. He had four sons and four daughters, but not to confuse our narrative, we shall specify only the first and third son, John his heir, and Gideon, the progenitor of the Murrays of Elibank. John, who succeeded on the death of his father, received the honour of knighthood from James VI. in 1592. Sir John Murray acquired some local celebrity for enclosing the hitherto open lands on his estate with stone walls, the first of the kind in Peeblesshire, and from which operations he became popularly known as the Dyker. We have no doubt that the Dyker was a man in advance of his time, who saw the importance of fencing, planting, and otherwise improving his extensive property. Archibald, his son, who succeeded as heir, was created a baronet of Nova Scotia, with continuation to his heirs-male, by Charles I., May 15, 1628. Sir Archibald, the first baronet, was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Alexander Murray, who was appointed high-sheriff of Peeblesshire by Oliver Cromwell. From about this period, a living interest is attached to the Murrays of Blackbarony. They are frequently mixed up with public events, take a lead in the county, and keep house with considerable degree of state at Darn Hall. This edifice, originally a border tower, situated in a dcrn or concealed place, and hence its name, had already been amplified by additions adapted to the growing distinction of the family. One of the lairds, possibly the Dyker, had planted a double row of limes, extending down the slope to the outer access to the grounds, forming a straight and broad avenue to the mansion. Except Traquair, there was nothing grander in its way in Peeblesshire than Darn Hall, and it seems to have quite fitted the taste for magnificence of Sir Alexander Murray, the second baronet. It is related of this stately personage that, on the occasion of giving entertainments at Darn Hall, he equipped his servants and tenants in liveries, which he kept for the purpose, and placed them on each side of the grand avenue, all the way to the door of his residence ; and that when they had so EDDLESTON. 347 done their duty, they, by a back-way, reached the house, and performed over again in the vestibule and staircase. It is further alleged, that having seen the king of Portugal walk with a shuffling gait in consequence of weakness in his ankles, Sir Alexander always afterwards, as a mark of courtly manners, affected the same awkward species of locomotion. But the thing on which he chiefly prided himself was something superior to either his suite of attendants or his mode of walking. One day, a gentleman speaking to him of old families, he replied : ' Sir, there are plenty of old families in this country, in France, Germany, and, indeed, all over the world ; but there are only three Houses the Bourbons of France, the Hapsburgs of Austria, and the Murrays of Blackbarony !' With all this love of show and fancied greatness, Sir Alexander had the address so to economise expenditure as to rear a large family of children, and settle them all respectably. He was twice married. By his first wife, he had two sons and two daughters. Archibald, the eldest son, was his heir, and Richard, the second son, acquired Spitalhaugh. Of his second marriage, there was one son, John (to whom he assigned the lands after- wards known as Cringletie), and five daughters. Two of these young ladies were married to gentlemen in the county. Janet became the wife of John Hay of Haystoun, of whose son, Dr James Hay, and other members of his numerous family, something has already been said. The other was married to Murray of Murray's Hall, now Halmyre. The story of the courtship of Janet or Jean, as she is styled in the legend may not perhaps be entirely vouched for ; but is too illustrative of old manners, and of the finesse which was sometimes employed by mothers of young ladies of quality in securing an eligible suitor, to be omitted. One day so goes this popular tradition as Sir Alexander Murray was strolling down the avenue, he saw the Laird of Haystoun, mounted on his white pony, approaching, as if with the intention of visiting Darn Hall. After the usual greetings, Murray asked Haystoun if that was his intention. ' Deed, it 's just that,' quoth Haystoun, * and I '11 tell you my errand. I am gaun to court your daughter Jean.' The Laird 348 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of Blackbarony (who, for a reason that will afterwards appear, was not willing that his neighbour should pay his visit at that particular time) gave the thing the go-by, by saying that his daughter was ower young for the laird. ' E'en 's you like,' quoth Haystoun, who was somewhat dorty, and who thereupon took an unceremonious leave of Blackbarony, hinting that his visit would perhaps be more acceptable somewhere else. Blackbarony went home, and immediately told his- wife what had passed. Her ladyship, on a moment's reflection, seeing the advantage that was likely to be lost in the establishment of her daughter, and to whom the disparity of years was no objection, immediately exclaimed : ' Are you daft, laird? Gang awa' immediately, and call Haystoun back again.' On this, the laird observed (and this turned out the cogent reason for his having declined Haystoun's visit) ' Ye ken, my dear, Jean's shoon 's at the mending.' (For the misses of those days had but one pair, and these good substantial ones, which would make a strange figure in a drawing-room of the present day.) ' Ye ken Jean's shoon 's at the mending.' ' Hoot awa, sic nonsense,' says her ladyship ; ' I '11 gie her mine.' ' And what will ye do yoursel 1 ' ' Do 1 ' says the lady : ' I '11 put on your boots ; I Ve lang petticoats, and they will never be noticed. Rin and cry back the laird.' Blackbarony was at once convinced by the reasoning and ingenuity of his wife ; and as Haystoun's pony was none of the fleetest, Blackbarony had little difficulty in overtaking him, and persuading him to return again. The laird having really conceived an affection for his neighbour's daughter, the visit was paid. Jean was introduced in her mother's shoes ; the boots were never noticed ; and the wedding took place in due time, and was celebrated with all the mirth and jollity usually displayed on such occasions. The union turned out happily, and from it, as has been said, sprung the present family of Haystoun. Sir Alexander was succeeded by his son, Sir Archibald, the third baronet, who comes frequently into notice in the reign of Charles II., as lieutenant-colonel of the militia regiment of Linlithgow and Peeblesshire, employed during that period of civil commotion. Surviving the Revolution, he left a son, Alexander, his heir, and four other sons, likewise two daughters. There now ensues a revolution in the family. Three of the younger sons died unmarried ; their next elder brother, Captain Archibald Murray, was married, and had a daughter, Margaret. Sir Alexander, the laird, was married, but had no children, and resigned Blackbarony to Margaret his niece, who married John EDDLESTON. 349 Stewart of Ascog. The baronetcy devolved on the heirs of Richard Murray of Spitalhaugh, a property long since out of the family (see NEWLANDS). With the descendants of Richard, the baronetcy still remains, though those who enjoy it have no territorial connection with the county. Leaving Blackbarony in possession of the Stewarts, we revert to Gideon Murray, whose ennobled descendants were destined to recover the old family seat of Darn Hall. Gideon, the third son of Sir John Murray, the Dyker, was reared for the church, and was appointed to the office of ' chanter of Aberdeen.' Happening to kill a man not an unusual occurrence in the early part of the reign of James VI. he was imprisoned in Edinburgh Castle, but was afterwards pardoned, and for some recommendable qualities received a charter of the lands of Elibank, county of Selkirk, March 15, 1594-95. Subsequently, he. had grants of other lands, and in him centred the lands of Ballencrief. In 1605, he received the honour of knighthood ; was constituted treasurer-depute in 1611 ; and in 1613, was appointed one of the Lords of the Court of Session. From these and other circumstances, Sir Gideon, or, as he was familiarly called by the country-people, Sir Judane, Murray, was evidently a man of high trust in the reign of James VI., and was able to keep house, first at the Provostry of Creighton, and afterwards at Elibank, in a manner outshining his relatives at Darn Hall. As he was noted for his reparations on the royal palaces and castles, there can be little doubt that he either wholly built the castle of Elibank, or extended it from the condition of an old border tower. Now a shattered ruin, occu- pying a commanding situation on the south bank of the Tweed, Elibank still shews signs of having been a residence of a very imposing character, defensible according to the usages of the period at which it was inhabited. Here, then, when not engaged in state affairs, Sir Gideon lived with his family. He had married Margaret Pentland, and had three sons, Patrick, William, and Walter, and one daughter, Agnes. How the circumstance of having only one daughter is to be reconciled with the story 350 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. related by Sir Walter Scott, in his Border Antiquities, after- wards versified by James Hogg, and now universally credited, we are at a loss to say. We may at least repeat this amusing legend in Scott's own words : ' The Scotts and Murrays were ancient enemies ; and as the possessions of the former adjoined to those of the latter, or lay contiguous to them on many points, they were at no loss for opportunities of exercising their enmity "according to the custom of the Marches." In the seventeenth century, the greater part of the property lying upon the river Ettrick belonged to Scott of Harden, who made his principal residence at Oakwood Tower, a border-house of strength still remaining upon that river. William Scott (afterwards Sir William), son of the head of this family, undertook an expedition against the Murrays of Elibank, whose property lay at a few miles distant. He found his enemy upon their guard, was defeated, and made prisoner in the act of driving off the cattle, which he had collected for that purpose. Our hero, Sir Gideon Murray, conducted his prisoner to the castle, where his lady received him with congratulations upon his victory, and inquiries concerning the fate to which he destined his prisoner. " The gallows," answered Sir Gideon for he is said already to have acquired the honour of knight- hood " to the gallows with the marauder." " Hout na, Sir Gideon," answered the considerate matron in her vernacular idiom ; " would you hang the winsome young Laird of Harden, when ye have three ill-favoured daughters to marry?" "Right," answered the baron, who catched at the idea ; " he shall either marry our daughter, mickle-mouthed Meg, or strap for it." Upon this alternative being proposed to the prisoner, he, upon the first view of the case, stoutly preferred the gibbet to " mickle- mouthed Meg," for such was the nickname of the young lady, whose real name was Agnes. But at length, when he was literally led forth to execution, and saw no other chance of escape, he retracted his ungallant resolution, and preferred the typical noose of matrimony to the literal cord of hemp. Such is the tradition established in both families, and often jocularly referred to upon the borders. It may be necessary to add, that mickle-mouthed Meg and her husband were a happy and loving pair, and had a very large family.' Sir Gideon's only daughter was certainly married to young Scott of Harden, but it is as true that the marriage did not take place hurriedly, but was the subject of a deliberate contract, to which there were four assenting parties Sir Gideon Murray and Walter Scott of Harden, as the two fathers, and EDDLESTON. 35! William Scott, younger of Harden, and Agnes Murray, the two to be united. This contract, existing among the Elibank Papers, is a very curious document. It consists of a series of sheets of paper pasted together, forming a strip about ten inches broad and eight feet long, well covered on one side with writing, and defines, among other matters, the tocher to be given with Agnes, which was seven thousand merks Scots (388, \js. o//. sterling). The deed purports to be executed at the ' Provost's place of Crighton,' July 14, 1611. The young lady subscribes with a bold hand, ' Agnes Morray.' Walter Scott of Harden, the father- in-law, was so illiterate as to be unable to sign his name, and adhibits his consent as follows : ' Walter Scott of Harden, with my hand at the pen, led be the notaries underwritten, because I can nocht write.' William Scott, his son, subscribes without assistance. From another old writ, it is seen that ' Dame Margaret Pentland,' wife of Sir Gideon, and mother of Agnes and of the first Lord Elibank, had no more knowledge of letters than Walter Scott of Harden, for she subscribes by a notary because she ' can nocht write.' Placed in the position of treasurer-depute, Sir Gideon Murray is said to have acquitted himself as an able financier, on the occasion of the visit of James VI. to Scotland in 1617, for which and other services he secured the confidence of the king, who, as a mark of favour, bestowed on him the gilt cups and other ' propynes ' which had been gifted to his majesty by the cities of Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Carlisle. So highly did the king esteem Sir Gideon, that when on one occasion he happened to let his glove fall, his majesty stooped and gave it to him again, saying : ' My predecessor, Queen Elizabeth, thought she did a favour to any man who was speaking to her when she let her glove fall, that he might take it up, and give to her again ; but, sir, you may say a king lifted up your glove.' If there be any truth in this story, Sir Gideon had reason to feel that the friendship of James was far from secure. Capricious, and influenced by parasites, the king believed a malicious accusation against Sir Gideon, and had him seized and 352 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. sent a prisoner to Scotland to be tried an indignity which so preyed upon him that he abstained from food for several days, and sinking into a state of stupor, died on the 28th of June 1621. Sir Gideon was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Patrick Murray, who was created a baronet in 1628, and advanced to the peerage as Lord Elibank, 1643. He was succeeded by Patrick the second, and Patrick the third Lord Elibank. The son and successor of the last mentioned was Alexander, the fourth baron, who left five sons Patrick, who succeeded as fifth Lord Elibank, George, Gideon, Alexander, and James. We pause a moment to refer to the youngest, the Hon. James Murray, a general in the army, who was governor of Canada in 1763, and in 1781 stood a siege in Fort St Philip, Minorca, when that island was invaded by the French under the Due de Crillon. An incident occurred on this occasion, worthy of being noticed in the family history. Failing to secure the fort by force of arms, the Due de Crillon sent a secret message to General Murray, offering to pay him ; 100,000 sterling for the surrender of the place. 1 Indignant at this attempt to corrupt his integrity, he sent the following spirited reply, dated October 16, 1781 : ' When your brave ancestor was desired by his sovereign to assassinate the Due de Guise, he returned the answer which you should have done, when you were charged to assassinate the character of a man whose birth is as illustrious as your own or that of the Due de Guise. I can have no further communication with you but in arms. If you have any humanity, pray send clothing for your unfortunate prisoners in my possession ; leave it at a distance, to be taken up by them, because I will admit of no contact for the future, but such as is hostile to the most inveterate degree.' To this the duke replied : ' Your letter restores each of us to our places ; it confirms me in the high opinion I have always had of you. I accept your last proposal with pleasure.' The general, as is well known, bravely held out until famine and disease obliged him to capitulate, Feb. 5, 1782. 'I yield to God and not to man,' was the memorable saying of General Murray, on rendering up the emaciated defenders of the garrison, whose appearance drew tears from the French officers and soldiers. Patrick, fifth Lord Elibank, was an accomplished man of 1 History of England. EDDLESTON. 353 letters, and commemorated as the friend of Dr Samuel Johnson, whom he entertained at Ballencrief, on his visiting Edinburgh. He died in 1778, and was succeeded by George, his brother, an eminent naval officer, who, at his decease in 1785, was succeeded by his nephew, Alexander, son of Gideon Murray, D.D., prebendary of Durham. Alexander, the seventh Lord Elibank, bred an officer in the army, will be remembered as commander of the local militia of Peeblesshire. There having been no issue Fig. 48. Dam Hall. of the marriage of Stewart of Ascog and Margaret Murray, the Blackbarony estate, so far as not disposed of, went in virtue of a deed of entail to Alexander, seventh Lord Elibank, in whom the several properties belonging to the family in Selkirkshire, Haddingtonshire, and Peeblesshire, were united ; whereupon the Elibank branch of the Murrays was reinstated in Darn Hall. This peer died in 1820, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Alexander, as eighth baron. On the decease of that nobleman in 1830, the title and property devolved on his eldest son, Alexander-Oliphant, the present peer. w 354 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The Murrays of Elibank, whose history we have very faintly sketched, long since vacated the old castle of their ancestor, Sir Gideon, and leaving it to sink to decay, have returned permanently to the original residence of Darn Hall. By the tastefulness of its present proprietor, the house has been greatly extended and improved. As shewn in the preceding cut, fig. 48, it is a massive square mansion, ornamented by corner turrets in the old French-chateau style. It contains some good family pictures, including one of Patrick, fifth Lord Elibank. Around the house, the grounds are very beautiful ; while that old spacious avenue of limes, though now disused as an approach, remains a striking object in the scene, reminding us of John the Dyker, and his grandson, Sir Alexander the Magnificent. Since possessed by these worthies, the estate of Blackbarony has undergone various mutations, and is now considerably less than it was. Milkiston, which had been disposed of, has been re-attached by the present Lord Elibank at a cost of about ; 1 2,000. Latterly, increased by this means, and much improved in various ways, the entire property within the parish, in 1863, had a valued rental of 1783, 2s. Halton-Murray, or Blackbarony, might almost be called the parent estate in the parish, for from it most other properties have been excavated. It began to be disposed of in the early part of the eighteenth century. To judge from the valuation rolls, the estate was entire in 1709, but in 1740 it had dwindled to less than a fourth, and we then see a generally new order of proprietors. The chief purchaser of the dismembered Blackbarony estate was the Earl of Portmore, a personage no way connected with the district, and of whom and his titled successors all recollection is lost. We may give a passing word to this now forgotten family. Sprung from the Robertsons of Strowan, and becoming a soldier of fortune, the first of the family comes into notice as fighting in the Dutch service at the end of the seventeenth century, at which time he had adopted the surname of Colyear. Sir David Colyear came to England with William III., and for EDDLESTON. 355 his services was raised to the peerage as Lord Portmore. After- wards, 1703, he was created Earl of Portmore. By him or his son and successor, a large section of the Blackbarony estate was acquired, including that part on the south near the modern Portmore House ; the family also acquired the barony of Aber- lady. In 1835, family and earldom were extinct, but long before that event, the several estates just referred to were, through the pressure of necessity, disposed of. Among all the good bargains of land it is our pleasant lot to record, none, we think, can be compared with that about to be mentioned. In 1798, the Portmore possessions in Haddington- shire and Peeblesshire were purchased for 22,000, by Alexander Mackenzie, 1 who, in 1799, sold the Haddingtonshire portion, comprehending the barony and village of Aberlady, to the Earl of Wemyss, for .24,000.* Where, alas ! whether at public auction or by private arrangement, is such a marvellous bargain now to be secured ? The portion in Peeblesshire, formerly a part of Halton-Murray, consisted of East and West Lochs, Kingside, Courhope, Cloich, Shiplaw, and Over Falla, in the parish of Eddleston, and East and West Deans' Houses, in the parish of Newlands. Courhope and Cloich, and also East and West Deans' Houses, have been latterly disposed of for considerable sums. Alexander Mackenzie, the fortunate purchaser of the Portmore estate in 1798, was a writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, and descendant of Sir Alexander Mackenzie of Garioch. Getting the Peeblesshire property, as it may be said, for nothing, neither he nor his immediate successor made much of it, in consequence of the lands being let on exceedingly long leases at a very insignificant rent At the decease of Mr Mackenzie, the lands were inherited by his son, Colin Mackenzie, deputy- keeper of the Signet, who had a large family by his wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Forbes, Bart., of Pitsligo. The eldest son, William Forbes Mackenzie, who succeeded in 1 Public Records, General Register House. ' Portmore Papers. 356 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 1830, was for some time member of parliament for the county, and enjoyed a certain notoriety by having his name associated with the well-known Public-house Act for Scotland. When retired from public life, Mr Mackenzie died suddenly in 1862, and was succeeded by his only chifd, the present Colin James Mackenzie of Portmore. By Colin Mackenzie, the son of the purchaser, the estate was improved by planting and other costly operations. He also Fig. 49. Portmore House. enlarged it by acquiring Whitebarony and other lands in the neighbourhood ; but the higher district remained, for the greater part, in a dreary backward condition a circumstance ascribed to the perniciously long leases at rents which offered no stimulus to improvement. 1 That the leases on this property, protracted till about 1834, should have been attended with consequences so different from what ensued in regard to the Neidpath estate, is a fact not unworthy of notice. Although limited in dimensions by the sales above referred to, the estate of Portmore had, in 1863, 1 Statistical Account, by Rev. Patrick Robertson, 1834. EDDLESTON. 357 a valued rental of 3720, qs. For many years, the family of the proprietor resided in a small house at Harcus, but recently this was abandoned for a new and commodious mansion, in a handsome style of architecture, situated on an elevated ground, and commanding an extensive view southwards down the valley. Adorned by well-grown woods, the grounds around Portmore possess some degree of interest by including the ancient British fort, known as Northshield Rings. They are further attractive by bordering on a pretty sheet of water, two miles in circum- ference, now known as Portmore Loch. In Blaew's map, the outlet of this mountain tarn is marked as towards Eddleston Water. It has no exit in this direction. From its northern extremity flows a burn as a feeder of the South Esk, which, uniting with the North Esk at Dalkeith, falls into the sea at Musselburgh. In the description of the lake by Blaew, it is said to abound in fish, principally eels, which, rushing out with impetuosity in the month of August, are caught in such great numbers by the country people, as to be a source of much profit. In the present day, perch, pike, and eels are stated to be found in the loch, but not in that overwhelming abundance narrated by the Dutch chronicler. Dundreich, with its huge rounded form, rises on the south ; and immediately adjoining, in a south-easterly direction, is the hill called Powbeat, on which, it is alleged, there is a spring so deep and mysterious, as to give rise to the notion that the hill is full of water. The common people in the neighbourhood amuse themselves with a specula- tion as to the mischief which would be occasioned were the sides of the hill to burst. Observing the direction of the valley of the South Esk, they conclude that the deluge would flow towards Dalkeith, carrying off, in the first place, three farms, and finally sweeping away several kirks in its destructive course. These whimsical conjectures are thrown into a popular rhyme, as follows : ' Powbate, an' ye break, Tak' the Moorfoot in your gate, Huntly-cot, a' three, Moorfoot and Mauldslie, Five kirks and an abbacie.' 358 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The five kirks are those belonging to the parishes of Temple, Carrington, Borthwick, Cockpen, and Dalkeith ; and the abbey (which shews the antiquity of the rhyme) is that formerly existing at Newbattle. The estate of Cringletie, increased by recent acquisitions, lies generally to the south of Blackbarony, the distance from Darn Hall to Cringletie House being about two miles. The Murrays, the present proprietors, are, as above described, descended from Sir Alexander Murray of Blackbarony (time of Charles I. and Commonwealth), by a second marriage with Margaret, daughter of Sir David Murray of Stanhope. John, the son of this pair, received from his' father, in 1667, the lands of Upper and Nether Kidston, purchased by him only a year before, and which lands, along with Easter and Wester Wormiston, were erected into a barony called Cringletie, in 1671. Kidston, in its various parts, at one time belonged to Lord Fleming, and afterwards to the Earl of Douglas, who conveyed the lands to a family named Lauder. These Lauders appear to have had considerable pos- sessions about Eddleston Water. In the returns, under date 1603, mention is made of ' Alexander Lauder of Haltoun,' heir of Alexander Lauder, who was killed at the battle of Pinkie ; and in 1655, there was a ' John Lauder of Hethpool.' It is interesting to note how this family, which cut a figure in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, culminated, waned, and disappeared. As early as 1512, there are writs embracing the Green Meldoun, which, from its description, is assumed to be Hamilton or Hamildean Hill. By a charter of resignation and novodamus, 1610, this hill, the subject of future contests with the town of Peebles, was associated with Kidston and Wormiston, in virtue of which it was adjudged to be part and parcel of the Cringletie estate, and as such it remains till the present day. As the Lauders vanish from the stage, the Murrays come into view. John Murray, the first of Cringletie, was succeeded by his brother Alexander, who had two sons Alexander, his heir, and Archibald, who was bred an advocate, and to whose descend- ants we shall afterwards refer. Alexander, who succeeded EDDLESTON. 359 to Cringletie, officiated for some time as sheriff-depute of Peeblesshire under the Earl of March, and represented the county in three several parliaments. Alexander, his eldest son, succeeded him, and acquired distinction as an officer in the army, in which he rose to the rank of lieutenant-colonel. He held a command at the siege of Louisburg, capital of Cape Breton, and afterwards served with distinction under General Wolfe, at the battle of Quebec, 1759. He commanded the grenadiers at the landing of the army, on which occasion he received four shots through his clothes without being hurt ; and in the battle which ensued he distinguished himself with great gallantry. 1 At this time, Colonel Murray was married, and his wife, a daughter of Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees, Bart., accompanied him in his Canadian campaign. He had two sons, Alexander and James Wolfe, and a daughter. The second son, born in January 1759, was named after General Wolfe, who acted as his godfather, and expressed a wish that the name of Wolfe might remain in the family. Colonel Murray died at the reduction of the island of Martinique, 1762, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Alexander. James Wolfe Murray, who was educated for the Scottish bar, at which he passed as advocate in 1782, became afterwards sheriff of Peeblesshire. Towards the end of the century, he bought the family estate for 8000, from his brother, Alex- ander, who died without issue in 1822.* It is mentioned, that in making this purchase, Mr Murray was assisted by his uncle, an aged bachelor, Colonel James Murray, who will be remembered by old people about Peebles, for he lived for a number of years in Quebec Hall at the East Port, and died there in 1807. Of James Wolfe Murray, and his polite and agreeable manner, many still alive will vividly retain a recollection ; perhaps many more will remember his beautiful and remarkably clever wife. This 1 West wished Colonel Murray to figure in his picture representing the death of Wolfe ; ' but the honest Scot refused, saying, " No, no ! I was not by ; I was leading the left." 'Wright's Life of Wolfe. 8 Cringletie Papers. 360 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRP:. lady, Isabella Strange, was a granddaughter of Sir Robert Strange, celebrated as an engraver toward the end of last century. Strange's history is associated with some stirring events. He was born in Shetland in 1721 (his father having been connected with the Stranges or Strongs of Balcaskie, in Fife), and was, from his taste for art, sent to be apprenticed as an engraver in Edinburgh. There he formed an attachment to the charming Isabella Lumsden, sister of Andrew Lumsden, writer, who, from his Jacobite proclivities, became private secre- tary to Prince Charles Edward on his appearance in 1745. Miss Lumsden, a still more enthusiastic adherent of the Stuarts than her brother, would only promise to marry Robert Strange, on his engaging heartily in the rebellion, which he forthwith did the duty more especially assigned to him being that of engraving bank-notes for the use of the rebel army. On the dispersal of the insurgents at Culloden, Strange, like others, fled for his life. It is related by his biographer, that on one occasion, being ' hotly pressed, he dashed into a room where the lady, whose zeal had enlisted him in the fatal cause, sat singing at her needle-work, and failing other means of concealment, was indebted for safety to her prompt intervention. As she quickly raised her hooped gown, the affianced lover disappeared under her ample contour, where, thanks to her cool demeanour and unfaltering notes, he lay undetected while the rude and baffled soldiery vainly ransacked the house.' Escaping to France, Strange was compensated for his misad- ventures, by marrying Miss, Lumsden in 1747. For many years he carried on business as an engraver in Paris, where his finest works were produced. He and his family at length came to England, where there was no longer any danger on account of the affair of 1745. Coming into favour as an artist with George III., he received the honour of knighthood in 1787. He died, 1792. Sir Robert Strange had a large family. His eldest son was James Strange, whose first wife was Margaret Durham of Largo, by whom he had a daughter, Isabella. This child, sent to live for some time with her grandfather, at his house in EDDLESTON. 361 Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, is described as having inherited the sparkling wit, vivacity, and worth of her grand- mother, Lady Strange, to whom she was much attached. Such was Isabella Strange, who, in 1807, became the beautiful wife of James Wolfe Murray of Cringletie. Held in esteem, Mr Murray was raised to the bench of the Court of Session, in 1816, when he adopted the judicial title of Lord Cringletie. His lordship died in 1836, leaving a family of four sons and eight daughters all noted, in a singular degree, for their unaffected manners and sprightliness of disposition. 1 Mrs Murray, his widow, died at Paris in 1847. Lord Cringletie was succeeded by his eldest son, James Wolfe Murray, the present proprietor. We now return to Archibald Murray, advocate, brother of Alexander, the laird, second in descent from Blackbarony. He acquired the estate of Nisbet, two miles west from Edinburgh, which he called Murrayfield, and this designation it still retains. By his wife, a daughter of Lord William Hay, younger son of John, Marquis of Tweeddale, he had a son Alexander,, who, also, was reared to the profession of the law, and succeeded his father as sheriff-depute of Peeblesshire in 1761. Rising at the bar, he was appointed a judge in the Court of Session in 1782, when he adopted the title of Lord Henderland, from the estate of the same name in Megget, which had already become a possession of the family. The wife of Lord Henderland was a daughter of Sir Alexander Lindsay of Evelick, baronet, and niece of the first Earl of Mansfield. By this lady he had two sons William, who inherited his property of Henderland, and John Archibald. This second son, who lived to inherit his brother's patrimony, will long be remembered for his genial qualities, and the part he played in politics in Edinburgh in the early part of the present century. Bred to the law, like his father and grandfather, John Archi- bald Murray was appointed Lord Advocate in 1834, and after being some time member of parliament for the Leith district of 1 His eldest daughter was married to James Dennistoun of Dennistoun, author of Memoirs of Sir Robert Strange, 2 vols. 1855. 362 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. burghs, was raised to the bench in 1 839, when he took the title of Lord Murray. He was at the same time knighted. From this time till his death, in 1859, Lord Murray was one of the nota- bilities of Edinburgh. William Murray, who predeceased his brother, left Henderland to the representative of the main line of the family, James Wolfe Murray of Cringletie, subject, how- ever, to some arrangements on the part of Lord Murray. On the death of Lady Murray, the estate was handed over, free, as originally destined. Among the property left to Lord Murray by his brother, was Ramsay Lodge, on the Castle Hill of Edin- burgh, which William Murray had received as a bequest from his cousin, Major-general Ramsay, whose mother, Margaret Lindsay, was a sister of the wife of Lord Henderland. This classic mansion, where lived and died the author of the Gentle Shepherd, was sold at the death of Lady Murray. Henderland was but a short time in possession of Mr Murray. In 1862, he excambed it with the Earl of Wemyss for Courhope and Cloich, which his lordship bought that year for 25,100 ; Mr Murray giving, in addition, the sum of 1550 to adjust the exchange. The sale of Courhope and Cloich, a pastoral tract adjoining Cringletie, offers one of the many instances of the rise in the value of property of this nature ; for as lately as 1840, it had been disposed of for 13,000. Extended by this acquisition, the Cringletie estate comprehends a considerable part of the high grounds west of the vale of Eddleston, including Upper and Nether Stewarton. Southwards, within the parish of Peebles, it includes Upper and Nether Kidston, also Kidston Mill ; the buildings of this last-mentioned place forming a picturesque group close upon the line of railway. In 1863, the valued rental of the estate was 2439, 4 s - Mr Murray inherits the small property of Westshield, in Lanarkshire, which had been purchased by his father, Lord Cringletie, and formed originally part of the Coltness estate. Cringletie House, situated on a plateau at the top of a steep bank, rising from the right bank of Eddleston Water, is said by Armstrong to be environed by ' an extensive plantation, to EDDLESTON. 363 shield it from the rude blasts of Boreas, and add useful and ornamental value to its mature improvements.' Since this was written, the woods about Cringletie have increased in extent and beauty, and much has been done to add to the general amenity of the grounds. The old mansion having lapsed into a bad condition, the present proprietor adopted the wise policy of pulling it entirely down, and building a new one on a better scale, instead of attempting a mere reparation. An edifice in Fig. 50. Cringletie House. the picturesque old Scottish manor-house style, built of reddish- coloured sandstone, as represented in the adjoining cut, fig. 50, was completed in 1863, and is now occupied by Mr Murray and his family. The house contains some family pictures by good masters. Among these there is a remarkably fine portrait of Thomas Lord Erskine by Gainsborough, and one of his brother, the Hon. Henry Erskine, by Raeburn. The Countess of Buchan, mother of the Erskines, being a sister of Lord Cringletie's mother, they stood in the relationship of cousins to the Murrays, and in boyhood occasionally visited Cringletie to spend their summer holidays. A story is told of a 364 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. dumb ' spae-wife ' calling when they were there, and indicating by signs, in a remarkable manner, what was to be Thomas Erskine's fortune. He would be a sailor, but (with a shake of the head) that would not do ; he would be a soldier, but (another shake) that also would not do ; lastly, affecting to read and harangue, and. graciously patting him on the back, she shewed by that means he was to be a great man ; whereupon the youthful spectators of the sport burst into the derisive shout : ' Man, Tarn, ye '11 be but a minister after a'. ' Such remains a favourite anecdote at Cringletie, and we must allow that it faith- fully pictures the career of the great forensic orator, who, after being in the navy and army, lived to be Lord Chancellor of England. The access to Cringletie has been lately much improved, by carrying a high bridge across the river and railway, thereby lessening the extreme steepness of the approach. With glimpses from amidst the surrounding trees, the house commands a fine view down the valley towards Peebles, and northwards in the direction of Portmore. On the high grounds, on the opposite side of the Eddleston from Cringletie, lies the property of Windi- laws, augmented in a small degree by part of Glentress Common, in the manner formerly alluded to. Among the other lesser properties in the parish are Harehope, remarkable for its British hill-forts, now belonging to John Inch, also a farm usually called Cowie's Linn, which pertains to Sir Cowie's Linn. /*/: n/r G. Graham Montgomery, Bart., of Stanhope. This last-mentioned property, situated to the EDDLESTON. 365 north of Darn Hall, was long, as in the case of the Portmore estate, in a backward condition, but has lately been in a course of improvement. Through it there pours a considerable burn, a feeder of the Eddleston, celebrated for a waterfall of about thirty-five feet, from which the farm has been designated. In fig. 51 (see preceding page), we offer a sketch of Cowie's Linn, which possesses much picturesque beauty. It is situated in a solitary ravine, at the distance of about half a mile from Early Vale, on the public road, and forms a favourite resort of summer visitors. The modern village of Eddleston, situated near the gateway to Darn Hall, is a model of neatness and good order ; and we should not omit to state, that neither here nor in any part of the parish is there a single public-house a contrast with what is mentioned by Armstrong in 1775, when there were three houses of public entertainment in the village. Till within the present century, Eddleston was noted for an annual fair on the 25th September, which is now abolished. The spot on which it was held, is occupied as one of the stations of the Peebles Railway. The Eddleston Water, in its course of four miles from the village to Peebles, affords some good points for the pencil of an artist. INNERLEITHEN. IT would be difficult to point out in Scotland a drive of six miles, more charming than that from Peebles to Innerleithen. Mountain, river, wood, ruined border towers, gentlemen's seats environed in pleasure-grounds, and rich arable fields divided by hedgerows and plantations, all make up a scene of great natural and artificial beauty. Passing eastwards, by Eshiels, we reach the boundary of the parish of Innerleithen, at the base of the rounded knoll which is crowned by the ruin of Horsbrugh Castle. From this western verge, the parish extends a length of nine miles, with the Tweed as a frontage on the south, while the breadth northwards is about the same. 1 In its eastern division, the parish of Innerleithen presents one of those examples of county and parochial entanglement, common in this part of Tweeddale ; for while a portion of the parish lies within Selkirk- shire, part of Selkirkshire (Priesthope) lies within Peeblesshire. But there are other complications. We do not allude to a part of the parish being a section of the old suppressed parish of Kailzie, for that is now only matter of history. The strange thing is that, owing to the shifting or straightening of the Tweed, part of Traquair parish now lies on the north side, while small parts of Innerleithen parish lie on the south side, of the river. The surface of the parish may be represented as altogether pastoral and mountainous, except on the banks of the Tweed 1 Superficies, 20,544.037 acres. Ord. Sur. INNERLEITHEN. 367 and Leithen ; but from the lower arable lands, cultivation is spreading up the hills ; and, in some sheltered places, has reached a considerable height. The Leithen, a mountain stream, origi- nates in the north-western corner of the parish, and after a course of about twelve miles, falls into the Tweed. The word Leithen is significant of a water which overflows its banks, which remains a characteristic of this small river, in consequence of being the drainage of a spacious mountain tract liable to heavy falls of rain. In ancient times, the stream wound round the base of Pirn Hill before joining the Tweed, and this old run is still partly visible. The present exit, which is artificial, is in a direc- tion straight southwards from the village. Signifying ' upon the Leithen,' the name of the parish is occasionally spelled Inver- leithen. Popularly, it is sometimes called Henderlethane, under which designation it is referred to in various old records. The ancient parish church was given by Malcolm IV. (between 1 159 and 1 165) to the monks of Kelso ; and afterwards the same monarch conferred the privilege of sanctuary on the church, as a species of acknowledgment for having given a resting-place for a night to the body of his natural son, who was unhappily drowned in a pool near the foot of the Leithen. In 1232, the church was confirmed to the abbey of Kelso, by William, Bishop of Glasgow, and there were many other charters of a like character ; all which were abolished by the Reformation. The church, that had been the object of so much solicitude, was an edifice with a chancel, which, falling to decay, was taken down, and a plain structure reared in its place in 1786 ; so badly, however, was this edifice constructed, that it is already becoming ruinous, and a new church, on a more convenient site, near the modern village, is at present under consideration. The old village of Innerleithen consisted of irregular groups of thatched cottages adjacent to the church, mill, and green, and straggling towards an old border tower, now removed, which stood near the site of the present public hall. In this olden time, the only secure thoroughfare across the Leithen was by a narrow bridge, picturesquely spanning the small stream opposite the 368 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. green ; a sketch of which is presented in fig. 52. Now used by foot-passengers, this bridge connected the road by Pirn Hill with that which pursued its way by the Caerlee Hill, and so along the heights to Nether Horsbrugh. Portions of this ancient road are still visible among the woods of Glenormiston. Fig. 52. Old Bridge, Innerleithen. In 1787, when Innerleithen was visited by Robert Burns, on his pilgrimage to the ' Bush aboon Traquair,' the village was still much in its original condition ; but shortly afterwards, it got into shape along the new post-road. The first thing that gave a stimulus to the village, was the establishment of a woollen factory, about 1790, by Alexander Brodie of Carey Street, London. Brodie was a remarkable man in his time, a genius and philanthropist, whom it is well to commemorate. He was a native of Traquair, and bred a blacksmith. With ambitious notions, he quitted his native parish while still a lad ; his whole wealth consisting of 17^. 6d. in his pocket, which carried him to London. There, he pursued his profession, and so successfully, that he at length realised a vast fortune. Yet, during his career, INNERLEITHEN. 369 Broclic never forgot the county of his birth. We have seen that he sent money, annually, to the magistrates of Peebles, to pay for the education of poor children. Under a strong impression that much good might be done by planting a factory at Inner- leithen, to use up the wool of the district, and give employment to the young of both sexes, he built a mill and equipped it with machinery, at a cost of .3000. There is reason to believe that this was not his sole outlay, for the concern was long on an unsatisfactory footing, and though benefiting the village, its promoter had no comfort in the undertaking. This benevolent man died in 1811, when the bulk of his fortune was divided among nephews and nieces in Peeblesshire. As a lesson to philanthropists, Brodie's mill did no good in a commercial sense, while fostered by benevolence. It was only when independent enterprise and capital were engaged in the undertaking, and when foreign wool was employed, that it was crowned with success. About the time when manufactures were introduced, notice began to be taken of a spring of mineral water 1 with medicinal 1 Saline spring contains in one imperial gallon : Chloride of sodium (common salt), . 2 1 6. 72 grains. Chloride of calcium, .... 148. 16 << Chloride of magnesium, . . . i6. 77 Sulphate of magnesia (Epsom salts), . . I . IS * Carbonate of lime, . . . " ., 5-3 " Carbonate of magnesia, . . . 0.52 Carbonate of iron, . . . . o.i 5 Silica, soluble, . . ."" . o. 67 Bromine, . . . . . Present. Total saline matter in one imperial gallon, 389. I? grains. Sulphureous saline spring contains in one imperial gallon : Chloride of sodium (common salt), . . 133.04 grains. Chloride of calcium, . . . . 86. 49 , Chloride of magnesium, . ^~--* ' . 11.28 Sulphate of magnesia (Epsom salts), . . 1.36 Carbonate of lime, . . . 3 98 Carbonate of magnesia, . . . 0.80 Carbonate of iron, . . . o. M Silica, soluble, . . . l.oa Hydro-sulphuric acid (sulphuretted hydrogen), Present Bromine, ... . Present. Total saline matter in one imperial gallon, 238.21 grains. X 370 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. properties, rising on the slope of the Lee Pen, at a height of two hundred feet above the bed of the Leithen. Properly speaking, there were two springs, differing in quality, as will be seen by the preceding authoritative analyses by Dr Stevenson Macadam (1860) ; both are stated to be efficacious. For many years, visitors to this spa were unprovided with any accommoda- tion for drinking the waters ; at length, a species of pump-room, with veranda, was erected at the cost of the late Earl of Traquair, and the place got soon after an extraordinary degree of notoriety as a resort * for real or imaginary invalids. Other circumstances contributed. The celebrity of the place was enhanced in 1824, by the publication of Scott's novel, St Ronan's Well, the spa therein mentioned being fondly imagined to be that of Innerleithen ; and visitors were further attracted by an annual festivity, consisting of outdoor sports, established by an association called the St Ronan's Border Club. As a convenient residence for anglers, the village received a considerable accession of summer visitors, and it has been benefited by a wooden bridge of modern erection, which here crosses the Tweed to Traquair. Innerleithen has gradually outgrown its original character, but it still remains a village, without a vestige of municipal govern- ment to effect proper drainage, and take charge of various other matters concerning the health and comfort of those who think of making it a place of residence a state of things which, if persisted in, can scarcely fail to prove detrimental to general interests. The village, however, is increasing in dimensions. The old thatched cottages are nearly all gone, and the plainer order of dwellings are in the course of being replaced by houses of a better description. The village has an excellent inn, and adjoining it is a Public Hall * built by the late Earl of Traquair, under whose auspices annual horticultural exhibitions were initiated. Besides the parish church, there is a Free church, a United Presbyterian church, and an Independent chapel. In the village, there are two schools, two bank agencies, also a co-operative store, a number of excellent shops of various 1 Height above the level of the sea, 479 feet. Ord. Sur. INNERLE1THEN. 37! tradesmen, and many good lodging-houses. The railway from Peebles and Galashiels is to pass close to the village, and when opened, will not fail to prove advantageous. In 1 86 1, the population of the parish, within Peeblesshire, was 1750; in Selkirkshire, 73: total, 1823. Of this number, 316 belonged to Walker Burn, a newly erected manufacturing village situated on the Tweed, about a mile and a half to the east. A notice of this recently sprung-up village, leads us to an account of that surprisingly sudden growth of the woollen manufacture to which we formerly called attention. For about twenty-five years after the death of Mr Brodie, his mill, which had become the property of one of his nieces, had a succession of five or six tenants, by whom, until 1834, there was little improvement on the mode of manufacture. Messrs Dow, who rented the factory for ten years, were among the first who made those tartan shawls which have since become an important article of manufacture. These shawls were nearly all made of home-grown or Cheviot wool ; there being still little or no foreign wool employed. In 1839, Brodie's mill was purchased by Mr Robert Gill, and has since been greatly enlarged ; steam-power being added to the original water- power from the Leithen. At present, under the firm of Robert Gill and Son, this, the oldest, mill contains 6 sets of carding-machines, 30 power, and 20 hand looms, 4200 spindles, and employs upwards of a hundred work-people. The species of cloth made consists of tweeds, tartans, and flannel shirtings, on all which Australian or foreign wool is employed. About 1845, a factory was established by J. & A. Dobson. For a few years, it was employed only in yarn-spinning; but to this were added the dyeing and weaving of cloth. Considerably enlarged, this establishment now contains 3 sets of carding-engines, 34 hand and power looms, and about 2500 spindles ; it gives employment to nearly a hundred work-people. The cloth manufactured consists of tweeds, tartans, and a variety of fancy shirtings. This factory is situated between the village and the Tweed, and the water-power is now supple- mented by steam. More recently, or about seventeen years ago, a large factory was built north of the village, or the furthest up the valley of the Leithen, by George Roberts and Son of Selkirk. It has ample water-power, and is provided with a wheel of great dimensions. In this establishment there are 5 sets of machinery, and 3632 spindles. The yarn produced is all sent to Selkirk to be woven into cloth. 3/2 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Near the foregoing mill is situated the factory of Charles Wilson and Son, established about the same period. It contains 3 sets of carding- machines, 1200 spindles, and 28 power-looms. The manufacture consists of blankets and plaidings, to which the firm has recently added the preparation of tweeds at a factory at Earlston. At Walker Burn, there are two factories with water-power from the Tweed. The first erected mill was that of Henry Ballantyne and Sons, about 1857, and since greatly extended. This is a finely arranged concern, covering a considerable space, and the machinery, as in all the other factories, is of an improved kind. It contains 7 sets of carding- machines, 32 hand, and 32 power looms, 8000 spindles, and gives employment to 200 workers. Besides the yarn produced, a considerable quantity is bought to keep the looms in operation. The manufacture is entirely of tweeds, Australian or foreign wool being almost exclusively employed. Near the above factory, and propelled by the same water-power, is that of James Dalziel and Company, called Tweedholm Mills. It contains 3 sets of carding-machines, and as much yarn is bought as would keep other 3 sets moving. There are 21 power, and 30 hand looms, also nearly 3000 spindles ; the whole of the newest construction. Through the agency of these two manufacturing establishments, Walker Burn promises soon to rival the principal village in the parish. The number of persons employed is 323, of whom a third are females. Altogether, there are about 500 inhabitants shewing an increase since 1861. Already, the place is provided with a school, also a co-operative provision store, and two shops. The members of the respective firms have neat dwellings in the neighbourhood. It is computed that the wages paid yearly in the factories of Inner- leithen and Walker Burn amount to about ^15,000, and that the wool used is in value about i 10,000. The value of the manufactured goods is about ^200,000. Adding to this, the value of the similar class of goods produced at the factory of Laing and Irving at Peebles, a total is made up of ^220,000 per annum within the county the whole of which productive industry is a creation of the last thirty years. In the early part of the seventeenth century, the principal landholders in the parish were the Stewarts of Traquair, the Horsbrughs of that Ilk, Tait of Pirn, Purvis of Purvis Hill, and the Laird of Prestongrange ; and that there was still little improvement is evident from the fact that, in 1657, the entire valued rental of the parish was only .4801, 13^. 2d. Scots, or little above 400 sterling. In 1863, there were six land-proprietors INNERLEITHKN. 373 in the parish, besides seven considerable feuars, chiefly manu- facturers. The whole property of every description (within Peeblesshire) had a valued rental of 10,745, is. qd. The Traquair property continues to be of leading importance ; for it embraces the ground occupied by the village on the west side of the Leithen, along with the farms of Innerleithen Mains and Kirkland, and other lands ; and as much of the land is eligible for feus, the rental may be greatly increased. Latterly, the ground has been feued for building at the annual rate of 15 per acre. As the Stewarts of Traquair did not make their appearance in the county until 1491, their tenure of lands in the parish of Innerleithen is not of great antiquity. Their acquisitions here were chiefly in the sixteenth and early part of the seventeenth centuries. One of the properties they acquired, called Home Huntersland, is now partly overspread by the village; it had long been a possession of the Tweedies of Drummelzier. In this parish is found, as we conceive, the oldest family of territorial distinction in an unbroken line in Peeblesshire, namely, that of Horsbrugh of Horsbrugh. The date of settlement of the family is lost in the mists of antiquity. The first of the race is believed to have been an Anglo-Saxon, designated Horse or Orse, who, settling on lands on the north bank of the Tweed, there reared the castle or burg, which communicated the present surname to his descendants. In old writs, the name is variously spelled Horsbroc, Horsbroch, Horsbruk, Horsburgh, and Hors- brugh, this last being now adopted by the family. 1 The earliest record of the name occurs in the chronicle of the abbey of Melrose, in which, between 1214 and 1249, ' Symon of 1 According to one of those mythic legends that are the pollution of Scottish family history, the name Horsbrugh is derived from the following incident. A hawk belonging to one of the early Scottish kings having flown across the Tweed, when it was in flood, a ploughman unyoked his horse, and recovered the lost animal. As man and horse stemmed the stream, the king cried out : ' May the horse bruik weel ! ' Horsebruik or llorsbrugh hence became the name of the man, who was rewarded with a gift of the estate. It is forgotten that, at the time of this alleged occurrence, the English language had not been introduced into Scotland, and that ploughing with horses was unknown. 374 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Horsbroc ' appears as a witness. After this, the name is intro- duced in various old charters through several centuries. Yet, it does not occur in the Ragman Roll, whether from some accidental circumstance, or because the lands of Horsbrugh may have been held from a subject superior, is matter of con- jecture. It is at least known that certain crown-rents exigible from Horsbrugh were gifted in 1336-7 to James Douglas, to whom the actual possessor would legally stand in the relation of Fig. 53. Ruin of Nether Horsbrugh. vassal. Whatever were the circumstances of the case, ' Alex- ander Horsbruk of that Ilk,' appears as unqualified proprietor, holding from the crown in 1479 > at which period the lands were divided into Over and Nether Horsbrugh ; and by these appella- tions they are respectively referred to in records. Over Hors- brugh remains the name of the farm on which the original fortalice is situated. On the Nether Horsbrugh section there was built, at a later date, and of greater strength, a feudal tower, still existing as a ruin. It is situated in a hollow on the margin of a mountain rivulet, and as represented in our engraving, fig. 53, is of a very massive character. INNERLEITHEN. 375 Occupying these lands, which pertained to the parish of Kailzie, the Horsbrughs, from father to son, made no appearance in general history ; but as stated in preceding pages, they long acted as sheriffs-depute under the Lords Yester, hereditary sheriffs of the county ; and it has been seen that, on various occasions, members of the family, forgetful of their position, rendered themselves amenable to judicial interference. As a result, possibly, of these irregularities, the Horsbrughs fell into financial difficulties in the early part of the seventeenth century, precisely at the time when the Stewarts of Traquair and Shil- linglaw were able to benefit by their necessities. In 1617, they disposed of the superiority of their ' lands of Horsbrugh and others/ to Sir Robert Stewart of Shillinglaw for a few thousand merks. 1 In 1634, James Stewart, the son of Sir Robert, had a sasine of the lands of Nether Horsbrugh. Till this day, the Horsbrughs have not resumed the superiority so unhappily relinquished. Passing from the Stewarts by various changes to the late Duke of Queensberry, it is now possessed by the Earl of Wemyss, from whom the Horsbrughs hold this ancient patri- monial domain, at an annual feu-duty of 40, lOs. Scots. We regret to say, that the ruin of Horsbrugh Castle (pictured at page 128, as it existed a few years ago) is rapidly disappearing, and that the landscape will soon cease to possess this interesting feature. Suffering for a time a species of eclipse, the family recovered itself by marriage. About 1684, Alexander Horsbrugh married Margaret Tait, heiress of Pirn. Of this alliance there was a daughter, Janet Horsbrugh, who, in 1717, conveyed her inheritance to John Horsbrugh, the son of her father, by a second marriage with Margaret Mitchelson. 2 Henceforth, the Horsbrughs are known as residents at Pirn, a plain mansion situated in a hollow at the base of Pirn Hill, east from the village of Innerleithen, and which, with some additions, is represented in fig. 54 (see following page). About the time of making this fortunate marriage, the Horsbrugh family purchased the lands of Purvis Hill ; and 1 Traquair Papers. a Horsbrugh Papers. 376 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHTRE. bought Manorhead in 1754, and Caberston and Boldhaugh in 1787. There were several lesser acquisitions, but none of the family possessions, except Pirn and part of Purvis Hill, is held direct from the crown. 1 Among the feudal superiors of the family is the royal burgh of Peebles, which, in virtue of old rights, claims various small dues from about Innerleithen. Fig. 54. Pirn House. Within the last twenty years, the value of the Horsbrugh property has been much improved by letting off feus on the east bank of the Leithcn, and more recently at Walker Burn, near Caberston. In 1863, the valued rental of the whole property was 1390, i is. i id. ; but to this is to be added 260 for Manorhead in the parish of Manor. The present proprietor is Lieutenant- colonel Alexander Horsbrugh of Horsbrugh. On his property are the interesting Purvis Hill terraces formerly described. Nether Horsbrugh, once the property of the Stewarts of Shillinglaw, passed through various hands, until it became the property of Robert Nutter Campbell of Kailzie, by whose 1 Horsbrugh Papers. INNERLEITHF.V. 377 trustees it was disposed of, in 1841, to James Ballantyne of Holylee, for (it is said) ^19,000. The lands are let as a farm, on which there is a steading, situated near the ruin of the old tower. Adjoining, are some large and very old ash-trees. 1 Between Nether Horsbrugh and Innerleithen is situated the estate of Glenormiston. This compact property, of nearly 900 acres in extent, has a front of a mile on the Tweed, whence it spreads upwards in a series of fields, ornamentally arranged, to the summit of the Lee Pen. The history of Glenormiston presents an epitome of the course of land improvement in Scotland. Anciently, it formed the 'ten pound land of Ormiston,' or popularly, Wormiston, and was little else than an open hillside, distinguished by a border-tower, which com- municated by signal with that of Cardrona, on the opposite bank of the river. Near the tower were two rows of elms, forming an avenue, and the only cultivation was that of a few acres in the lower grounds. At the beginning of the fifteenth century, the lands were held 1 Immediately below Nether Horsbrugh, the Tweed makes a sudden turn at the foot of a steep bank, and forms a deep dark pool called the ' dirt-pot, ' in relation to which, the following anecdote is related : ' In bygone days, Peeblesshire had its due proportion of drunken lairds, who, besides indulging in their own and their neighbours' houses, frequently spent a night in the chief inn at Peebles, on the occasion of attending the weekly market Their return home on horseback, in the dull mornings after these coarse convivialities, required considerable tact, as the roads were far from good, and in some places went along unguarded precipitous banks overhanging the Tweed. There was a particularly bad bit of road of this kind between Peebles and Innerleithen, called the dirt-pot. Now, it happened that a certain old laird had to pass this trying spot on his way home when more than half tipsy ; and it seems that on one occasion, he had been mortally affronted by some one alleging, by way of joke, " that he was afraid to pass the dirt-pot" This affront stuck to the laird. While sober, the recollection of it appeared to be in abeyance, but it always came back with full force when he reached a point of inebriety, and that was every night. Reaching this unhappy crisis, he broke out in an intolerably quarrelsome humour, muttering invectives on the subject which oppressed his mind : " Who says I am afraid to pass the dirt-pot ? I say, shew me the man that tells me I am afraid to pass the dirt-pot ;" and so on he would have gone till he became perfectly outrageous. But there was an understanding in the house about what was to be done on these occasions. No sooner had the ominous words "dirt-pot" escaped the laird's lips, than the lady, his wife, quietly touched the belL A servant entered the room, and, slipping behind the laird, seized hold of him in his arms, and dragged him off to bed the poor laird being heard all the way mumbling disjointed imprecations against all who dared to say he was afraid to pass the dirt-pot ! ' 3/8 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. by Thomas Maitland, who in 1407 conveyed them to Robert Dickison of Hutcheonfield. William Dickison, a descendant of this person, possessed the estate in 1516, at which time it was held of the barons of Dalswynton, on payment of three red roses, as a reddendo. From the Dickisons, the property passed in detachments to the Stewarts of Traquair about 1533. A century later, the Stewarts held the lands from Lord Garlics, Earl of Galloway, and the reddendo was one red rose. After this, the superiority was conjoined with the property, and the estate was henceforth held immediately from the crown, with the same delivery, however, of a red rose annually ; and the whole was annexed to, and comprehended within, the barony of Traquair. In 1789, the trustees of Charles, seventh Earl of Traquair, sold Ormiston to John Scott, writer to the Signet, for 8400. Now begins the improvement of the lands. Scott planted some belts of larch, and extended the area of cultivation. In 1805, his heirs disposed of the lands to William Hunter for 9910. From this time, the property was called .Glenormiston. Hunter must have been a man of fine taste. He was the great improver of the place, and all -he did was admirable. He laid out the lands in distinct and finely shaped fields, raised plantations, built a farm- steading, and erected the present commodious mansion. The only thing to be spoken of with regret respecting his regime, was the removal of the old fortalice. Mr Hunter died in possession, and in 1824 his trustees sold the estate to William Steuart for ^24,ooo. 1 By Mr Steuart, the lands were drained and otherwise improved, additional planting was effected, a new and spacious garden was made, and pavilion wings were added to the mansion. These various operations are understood to have cost 10,000. In 1849, Mr Steuart disposed of the property to William Chambers for 25,500.* Again, there was an effort 1 Glenormiston Papers. * Mr Chambers, as already stated (p. 289), is a native of Peebles, where his ancestors, in the rank of burgesses and small proprietors, can be traced for several centuries. For any additional facts, reference is made to the well-known work, Men of the Time, also to Vapercau's Diclionnairc des Contcmporains (Paris, 1858). INNERLEITHEN. 379 at improvement. Mr Chambers made an entirely new approach, the entrance to which 1 (at the distance of about four and a half miles from Peebles) is represented in the adjoining cut, fig. 55. He fresh drained a large part of the land, renewed fences, so altered the farm-steading, as to render it, as is generally thought, one of the best adapted for modern husbandry in the county, and built a number of labourers' cottages according to improved plans ; he likewise made some changes on the mansion, Fig- 55- Lodge and Entrance, Glenormiston. of which a sketch is given in fig. 56 (see following page). These and other alterations also cost 10,000 ; and uniting this outlay with that of previous proprietors, not less than the sum of 30,000 has been altogether expended in rendering Glenormiston what we now see it. The valued rental in 1863 was 851, 6s. The woods are now well grown, and the whole estate spreading out ornamentally with a southern aspect, and bounded by the Tweed, which is seen shining at the foot of the green haughs, possesses much amenity both as regards climate and appearance. 1 Height above the level of the sea, 520 feet Ord. Sur. 380 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Cultivation on the farm is carried to a height of noo feet above the level of the sea. Surmounting the arable land and its environing plantations, is the open heath, stretching as a sheep- pasture to the top of the Lee Pen. The peaked summit of this hill is 1647 feet above the sea-level. From the top is obtained an extensive prospect from Broad Law to the Eildon Hills in Roxburghshire, and embracing the royal burghs of Peebles and Selkirk. Partly included in the Glenormiston property, and Fig. 56. Glenormiston House. partly in that belonging to the Traquair family, is the knoll called Caerlee Hill (ordinarily known as the Curlcy), on which arc those remains of a British fort already the subject of notice. This ancient work of art may be easily reached by a pathway from Inncrleithen ; and it is worth visiting, if only for the view over the valley of the Tweed, and of its tributaries, the Lcithen and the Quair. A short way from the village of Innerlcithcn, and stretching northwards to the confines of the county, is a very extensive property known as Leithenhopes, comprehending the farms of INNERLEITHEN. 381 Lee, Colquhar, Whitehope, Blackhopebyres, Williamslee, and Huthope several of these, however, being now united as a sheep-pasturage under one tenant. This valuable possession, which in former times belonged to the Earls of Hyndford, was purchased in 1852, for (it is said) 57,500, by John Miller, civil engineer. In 1863, the valued rental was 2657. Along the valley of the Leithen, and branching off by Glentress Water, there is an imperfect road towards Mid -Lothian, which is entered by a notch in the mountain ridge, called Dewar Gill. The Peeblesshire part of the parish, bounded by Gaithope Burn, includes Gaithopeknowe, belonging to James Ballantyne of Holylee. The valued rental of Gaithopeknowe and Nether Horsbrugh, in 1863, was 961. Mr Ballantyne's other posses- sions, and also his mansion of Holylee, being within Selkirkshire, a notice of them would be beyond the scope of the present work. Innerleithen forms a good point, whence tourists may 'turn aside to Yarrow ' distance about sixteen miles by Mont Benger to a pleasant resort for anglers and sportsmen at the head of St Mary's Loch. TRAQUAIR. OPPOSITE Innerleithen, on the south bank of the Tweed, lies the parish of Traquair, 1 intersected in a strange manner by portions of Yarrow in Selkirkshire. Through it flows the small river Quair, which, after a course of a few miles from the higher grounds, falls into the Tweed. The name Traquair signifies the hamlet on the Quair; the meaning of Quair being the winding rivulet. Except along the borders of the small streams and the Tweed, the land is almost wholly pastoral. In a central part of the parish, on the road by Newhall Burn to Yarrow, stand the parish church and manse. The church is a neat modern structure, which superseded one of older date formerly dedicated to St Bryde, by which name, or that of Kirkbryde, the parish was originally known. The present parish was formed in 1674, by incorporating with St Bryde's all that portion of the suppressed parish of Kailzie which lay on the south side of the Tweed. North from the church, is the hamlet of Traquair Knowe, and here and there situ- ated on knolls, there are groups of a few dwellings, which, with the scattered houses of the proprietors, and their tenants, contain the whole population. Latterly there have been only 'Area, 15,400.486 acres. Ord. Sur. In 1861, population 687. In 1863, valued rental, ^6107, IQJ. yd. TRAQUAIR. 383 four estates of any importance in the parish Traquair, Glen, Cardrona, and Kailzie. Traquair, at which we arrive in crossing by the bridge from Innerleithen, may first engage attention. The deficiency of any distinct village disturbs the impressions made by old records concerning Traquair, which, in the twelfth century, was the seat of a sheriff, with a jurisdiction separate from that of Peebles, and for centuries subsequently, afforded accommodation to a barony court of some local importance. As Traquair House was visited by a number of royal personages from David I. to James VI. Edward I. of England included there must have been a considerable number of dwellings in the neighbourhood, all which have disappeared, leaving only a hamlet, with a detached mill, smithy, and school-house. Near these, in continuation of the turnpike road along the south side of the Tweed, a mountain track strikes off eastwards across Minchmoor, which, though barely passable for carriages, once formed a considerable thoroughfare between Selkirk and Peebles ; and it was by this route that the unfortunate Marquis of Montrose took his memorable flight from the field of Philiphaugh. At a point on the summit, where the road proceeding eastwards enters Selkirkshire, the height above the sea-level is about 1600 feet. A short way in advance, at the head of the Plora Burn, is a spring traditionally known as the ' Cheese Well,' at which votive offerings were at one time placed by wayfarers across the mountain. The changes that have taken place through the natural decay of the woods and otherwise, leave it a matter of some difficulty to speak with precision of the spot commemorated as the ' Bush aboon Traquair.* The whole valley of the Quair and its gushing and sparkling tributaries, is dotted with indigenous birches and shrubs, the remains of the once famed Ettrick Forest, within which the district hereabouts was included. Fancy points out a group of birches and other trees on the west bank of the Quair, a short way above the mill, as being the real 'Bush* rendered classic by the lyrical composition of Crawford. As HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. maybe seen from our sketch, fig. 57, the scene is simple and rural, and none could more fitly suit the purposes of the poet. The small river that murmurs at the foot of the bank has been alluded to in a song of more recent date, written by the late James Nicol, minister of the parish, a man inspired by the fire of genius, who composed a number of pleasing poetical pieces, among which the song, beginning, Where Quair rins sweet amang the flouirs, remains the most popular. James Hogg, whose boyhood was spent among the neighbouring mountains, has likewise contributed the charm of sentiment to this rural parish in his well-known song, Over the Hills to Traquair, Fig. 57. Bush aboon Traquair. With associations of this kind, the scenery invites attention by its fine old woods around Traquair House, the antique gateway to which mansion forms a species of local curiosity. Situated near the Tweed, amidst pleasing sylvan scenery, Traquair was thought so beautiful by Pennecuik as to be worthy of being described in verse : ' On fair Tweedside, from Berwick to the Bicld, Traquair for beauty fairly wins the field ; So many charms, by nature and by art, Do there combine to captivate the heart, And please the eye, with what is fine and rare, So that few seats can match with sweet Traquair.' TRAQUAIR. 385 As a royal domain, the lands of Traquair were gifted by Robert Bruce to his zealous supporter, Sir James Douglas, after whom they passed through various hands into possession of a branch of the Murrays. On the forfeiture of William Murray, 1464, the property was given to William Douglas of Cluny; but he scarcely took possession, and Traquair was assigned to the Boyds, on whose forfeiture, 1469, the estate was resumed by the crown. It was now, in the manner that has been described (page 85), presented by James III. to his favourite esquire, Dr William Rogers, who, after possessing it about ten years, sold it for a most insignificant sum, in 1478, to James Stewart, Earl of Buchan. The Traquair Papers, now examined, fully verify the transfer of the property from Rogers to the Earl of Buchan, 1 who did not, as is generally alleged, receive the lands as a gift from the king, his relative, James III. 2 Buchan had an especial object in buying the lands. It was to bestow them on his natural son, James Stewart, who had a charter of Traquair from his father in 1491. This, the first of the Stewarts of Traquair (who received letters of legitimation), perished at Flodden, leaving a son, William, in whom the estate was largely extended. He had several sons, one of whom had a son styled Sir Robert Stewart of Shillinglaw, who, in conjunction with his kinsmen of Traquair, comes into notice in historical records. Shillinglaw, or Schelynlaw, was a property within the parish, with a residence on Curley Burn, long since fallen to ruin. As seen by previous extracts from public documents, the Stewarts were a troublesome clan in the eastern part of Peeblesshire, in the reign of James VI., a circumstance which did not obstruct their rising into favour at court In 1628, Sir John Stewart was raised to the peerage as Lord Stewart of Traquair, and in 1633 was elevated to the dignity of Earl of Traquair, Lord Linton, and Caberston. Of this nobleman and his reverses of fortune, as also of the irregularities of his son, the second earl, enough has been said in these pages. By the last- mentioned peer, Roman Catholicism was introduced into the family, through his marriage with Lady Anne Seton ; but he, also, in deep penitence, is said to have died a sincere member of the Church of Rome. He was succeeded by his elder son William, as third Earl, and he was succeeded by his brother Charles, as fourth Earl, who married Lady Mary Maxwell, daughter of Robert, fourth Earl of Nithsdale. 1 By the late erudite antiquary, W. B. D. D. Turnbull, the whole of the Traquair Papers, so far as not destroyed by time or damp, have been described in the form of an analytical catalogue, to which we acknowledge particular obligations. 1 Buchan is usually spoken of as uncle to James III. ; strictly, he was only half- uncle. He was a son of Lady Jane Beaufort (widow of James I.), by her marriage with Sir James Stewart, known as the Black Knight of Lorn. Through Lady Jane, the Stewarts of Traquair may trace their descent from John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, fourth son of Edward III., and father of Henry IV. Y 386 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Whatever we may think of the conduct of the first two earls, it is impossible not to sympathise in the vicissitudes of a family, which, among other causes of concern, has had the misfortune not to possess sufficient heirs to keep its titles in existence. Charles, eighth earl, dying unmarried in 1861, the male line and peerage became extinct. By the first earl, in his day of prosperity, the estate was prodigiously expanded ; but before his death, and during the life of his son, there were correspondingly extensive alienations. A century later, Charles, fifth earl, suffered various misfortunes, and was reduced to such straits, as to be obliged, soon after 1750, 'to sell to Lord March the lands of Nether Horsbrugh, Caberston, Gaithopeknowe, and Henderland, for which he got ^12,000 sterling ; and to the Duke of Buccleuch the lands of Dryhope and Kirkstead, who paid ^8000 sterling for them.' 1 Ormiston was sold by the trustees of Charles, seventh earl, in 1789, since about which time the estate assumed its present shape. Though for many years living the life of a recluse, the late earl devoted himself with untiring patience to the improvement of his farms Howford and Grieston. Orchard Mains, Traquair Knowe, West Bold, Juniper Bank, and others. Some of the steadings he erected were of a very superior kind. Latterly, the rental has advanced, more particularly as regards the hill-farm of Craig-Douglas, now united with that of Black- house. In 1807, the rent of these two farms was ^535 ; it is now ^"1300, with ;ioo in addition for shootings. In 1863, the valued rental of the estate was ^6638, is. 6| by Sir James Montgomery, Baronet, but having rued the bargain, he relinquished it at the same price in favour of Andrew White, before the transfer was completed. The property, besides some superiorities, consisted of 4747 acres, and the aggregate rental of the farms into which it was divided was 762, 3J. 6^d, In 1863, the valued rental had increased to 1309, 2s. lid. Mr Andrew White, who made this favourable purchase, was son of John White of Howburn, a small property near Elsridgehill, in Lanarkshire, and had pursued a successful career as a merchant in Glasgow. He died in 1841, and was succeeded by his son, John White of Drummelzier, who, by purchase in 1834, had become proprietor of Netherurd. 1 (See KlRKURD.) The estate immediately to the south of Drummelzier, and, like it, fronting the Tweed, is that of Stanhope, formerly belonging to the Murrays, a branch of the Murrays of Romanno, under which head (parish of NEWLANDS) their lineage is traced to the Murrays of Philiphaugh. William Murray, third or youngest of Romanno, who, with his father and grandfather, was implicated 1 Drummelzier Papers. 424 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. i in the murder of Hamilton of Coldcoat, in 1591 (see page 115), had a son David, who, though in due time inheriting Romanno, relinquished that property to other members of the family, and afterwards settled down in this part of the county. Charles I. conferred on him the honour of knighthood, about which time he acquired the lands of Stanhope, and in 1635 had a charter of the barony of Broughton. He was succeeded by his son, William, an ardent loyalist, who in 1654 was fined 2000 by Oliver Cromwell. Surviving the Restoration, he was created a baronet by Charles II., in 1664. He was succeeded by his elder son, Sir David, as second baronet, and he by his son, Sir Alexander, who married Grizel, daughter of George Baillie of Jerviswoode. Sir Alexander dying without issue, was succeeded by his nephew, Sir David. Here ends the territorial distinction of the family. Sir David Murray, the fourth baronet, having engaged in the rebellion of 1745, was taken prisoner, tried, and sentenced to death at York in 1748 ; but, as a mark of royal clemency, was (along with some others) discharged on condition of banishing himself for life. He died abroad, leaving a family of whom there are probably still representatives. Stanhope and other family possessions were sold by authority of the Court of Session on the loth of August 1767. The Strontian property in Argyle- shire brought 33,700, and the estates in Peeblesshire 40, 500.' The purchaser of this last-mentioned portion was James Mont- gomery, advocate, whose grandson, Sir G. G. Montgomery, Baronet, is now proprietor. (See STOBO.) There is no mansion on the Drummelzier section of the estate, which consists chiefly of the farm of Easter and Wester Stanhope. On the opposite side of the Tweed from Stanhope is the strath of Kingledoors, the upper part of which was noted in ancient times for a chapel dedicated to St Cuthbert ; but this edifice has long since disappeared. In the present day the strath consists of a farm belonging to James Tweedie of Quarter ; valued rent in 1863, 650. 1 Play fair's British Family Antiquity, p. 332. DRUMMELZIER. 425 Beyond Stanhope, in proceeding up the valley, is the ancient property of Polmood, or, as it was commonly called, Powmuid. In the present day, it is known as Patervan, that being the name of the farm of which it now consists. In a field, the second north from the steading of Patervan, and within about fifty yards of the Tweed, are seen four lonely trees, which are said to mark the site of a hamlet now entirely gone, called Lincumdoddie. What kind of a place it was, no one can now tell ; but its name Fig. 70. Site of Lincumdoddie. is likely to be preserved through all time in one of the humorous songs of Burns, commencing ' Willie Wastle dwalt on Tweed, The spot they ca'd it Linkum-doddie ; Willie was a wabster guid, Could stown a clew wi' ony bodie.' The changes effected by time have swept away other seats of population, in this upper part of Tweeddale, besides Lincum- doddie. A short way onward, on a slip of green-sward which the plough has kindly spared, stand the desolated ruins of Polmood, a residence of the Hunters from time immemorial until their disappearance last century. The traveller towards the Crook, on the opposite side of the river, has, in passing, a full view of the old walls, of which we give a sketch in fig. 71. 426 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. There is something in the way of romance to be told respecting the property. The Hunters of Polmood claimed an extreme antiquity. According to a legend, which we are sorry to say is of no authority, Norman Hunter had a grant of lands by charter from Malcolm Canmore, the first year of his reign (1057). Fig. 71. Polmood in ruins. Pennecuik gives an alleged copy of this rhyming charter, which has no existence either as an original document or in record ; nor could it possibly have, because the language in which it is written was not in use in Scotland at the period. We repeat it as a curiosity : 'I, Malcolm Canmore, king, the first of my Reign, gives to thee, NORMAN HUNTER of Powmood, the HOPE up and down, above the Earth to Heaven, and below the Earth to Hell, as free to thee and thine as ever God gave it to me and mine, and that for a Bow and a Broad Arrow, when I come to hunt in Yarrow ; and for the mair suith, I byte the white Wax with my Tooth, before thir witnesses three May, Mauld, and Marjorie.' This charter can be considered to be only a mythical invention, DRUMMELZIER. 427 though it is reasonable to assume that the property was bestowed on the Hunters at a considerably remote period ; there being, it is said, some evidence that the lands were granted by William the Lion (1166-1214) to a person named Hunter. A degree of interest of another kind attaches to Polmood. It was the subject of one of the longest and most fiercely-contested litigations in our judicial annals, and a few words explanatory of this extraordinary case may be acceptable. Robert Hunter, proprietor of Polmood, died in 1689 without legitimate issue, but leaving a natural son, George, to whom he had disponed his lands, and who obtained letters of legitimation. In regular descent from this George, whose right was not challenged, there was a delicate youth, Thomas Hunter, the sole survivor of his line, who, about 1764, went to reside in Edin- burgh, in the house of Alexander Hunter, a merchant, who, though of the same name, stood in no relationship to the family. As the event proved, Alexander Hunter was a person of more than usual craftiness. He had the address to get himself appointed tutor or curator of the boy, Hunter, his guest, and with this advantage over him, persuaded the poor sickly lad to execute a deed of entail of his property in favour of himself and his heirs. The deed was dated 28th January 1765, and Thomas, its granter, remaining ill, died on the 2Oth March following. As, according to the law of Scotland, dispositions of heritable property executed on death-bed are of no avail, the deed was clearly reducible, had any proper heir interfered ; but there was no one immediately at hand to do so. Alexander Hunter, by means of the bequest and otherwise, became a rich man, one of the notabilities of Edinburgh, commemorated by the pencil of Kay, a copy of whose sketch is presented. This demure and cunning old man, Alexander Hunter, died Fig. 72. Hunter of Polmood. 428 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 22d February 1786, and was succeeded by his nephew, Walter, whose eldest daughter, Elizabeth, was married, in 1792, to Lord Forbes, and at her death, 1830, left a large family of children. Before her ladyship had come into possession of Polmood, a claimant as heir-at-law had appeared upon the scene. This was Adam Hunter, a poor and illiterate man, bred a shepherd in Tweeddale, and who describes himself as * lately tenant in Alterstane.' Having procured some sympathy and assistance from friends, he set about tracing his pedigree to Michael Hunter, father of Robert Hunter, who died in 1689. Furnished with several proofs in his favour, he began in 1780 to wage a war of litigation against Alexander Hunter, the usurper of the estate. Unfortunately, through defective hearsay information, his case twice broke down, and while renewing the struggle on more secure grounds, a new claimant of Polmood appeared in the person of Robert Taylor, tenant in Castle-Sanquar. Taylor tried to make out that he was descended from a certain Isobel Hunter, the nearest relation ; but in this, after a long course of litigation, he failed, and Adam solely remained to do battle with Lady Forbes. The history of this extraordinary litigation forms a quarto volume, abounding in curious matters of parole evidence from aged country-people in the western part of Peeblesshire. Some of the events referred to extend as far back as the holding of field-conventicles ; and one aged character, nicknamed ' Old Shank,' is described as having been baptized by a hunted Cameronian preacher amidst the wilds of Tweedsmuir. Reminis- cences concerning a wonderfully clever dog are also put forward as links in the line of propinquity. ' The deponent has heard his father say that Robert Hunter had a remarkable dog called Algiers ; and that when Robert lived at Woodend, he used to tie a napkin round the dog's neck with money in it, and send him for snuff to Lammington, which is about three miles from Woodend ; and that the dog executed his message faithfully, and prevented everybody from laying hold of or stopping him.' Another venerable deponent, aged eighty-nine, had heard his TWEEDSMUIR. 439 mother tell ' many stories about a dog belonging to Uncle Robert, which went by the name of Algiers ; that they used to cut a fleece off him every year sufficient to make a pair of stockings ; and that Uncle Robert used to tie a purse round his neck, with money in it, and the dog then swam the Tweed, and brought back tobacco from the Crook.' And a third declares that 'Algiers could be sent to Edinburgh with a letter, and bring back an answer to his master.' Uncle Robert, the proprietor of this wonderful animal, appears to have been a serviceable personage in the family. He usually lived at Chapel-K ingle- doors, where he was known as uncle to Margaret Tweedie, ' the Guidwife of Hearthstane ' (a neighbouring property). Polmood was only a place of occasional residence, and there he occupied ' a plenished room ' whenever he pleased. Happening to be there when the rebel forces passed up Tweed in 1745, he locked up his nephew, the laird, and so preventing him from joining them, saved the property. When Uncle Robert grew old, the Guidwife of Hearthstane ' thought it a pity that the family of Polmood should be troubled with him,' and accordingly took care of him till his demise, when, as a duty, ' the Lady of Polmood attended, and helped on with his dead-clothes.' With such old- world particulars bearing remotely on the line of evidence, does this strange history of a lawsuit abound. 1 One is grieved to know that, after a heart-breaking litigation of forty years, Adam Hunter lost his case ; it being decided by the court of last resort that he had failed to produce legally satisfactory evidence of being heir-at-law. Polmood, therefore, remained a possession in the family of Lord Forbes. Some years ago, it was sold for about 7000, to Houston Mitchell, its present proprietor ; valued rental in 1863, 270. Passing Polmood, we are in the parish of Tweedsmuir, at one time called Upper Drummelzier. Occupying the south-western corner of the county, Tweedsmuir is a large parish, consisting almost wholly of great brown hills, intersected by rivulets 1 Volume of Papers connected with the Polmood case, in possession of James Maidmcnt, Esq., advocate, Edinburgh. 430 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. pouring down to the Tweed, along which, for a short distance, there is alone any arable grounds. 1 Its great extent, pastoral character, and meagre population, occupying only forty-nine dwellings, remind us of an Australian sheep-run ; and the resem- blance to some such distant settlement is rendered the more complete, in consequence of this upper section of Tweeddale being no longer a great thoroughfare between Edinburgh and Dumfriesshire, as was the case previous to railway communica- tion. The turnpike-road is now grass-grown, and the once well-known posting-house, the Crook, is reduced to the condition of a roadside inn. The Bield, another of the hostels of a past age, situated further up the valley, has from similar causes been transformed into a private dwelling and lodging-house. Adjoining the Bield, on a rocky shoulder of the hill, with an outlook eastwards over the valley, are the ruins of Oliver Castle, of which only a few fragments survive such being usually described as a castle that had pertained to Simon Eraser v of Neidpath, at the end of the thirteenth century. Adjacent is the house of the proprietor, George Tweedie Stoddart of Oliver, who through his mother traces his descent over a period of three hundred years from a line of Tweedies of Oliver. On the opposite side of the valley of the Tweed, is the church of Tweedsmuir, situated on an alluvial knoll, with the manse and a few cottages in its neigh- bourhood. Crossing the river by a bridge at this spot, and turning along the moor to the right, we, within a mile, and in a marshy spot, arrive at the largest of the standing- 1 Superficies, 32,612.704 acres. Ord. Sur. In 1861, the population was 196. Fig- 73- Standing-stone, Tweedsmuir. TWEEDSMUIR. 43! stones of Peeblesshire. It is about five feet high, unshapely, and without inscription or carving. At a short distance, lying apart, are other two stones of considerably lesser size. There have been numerous speculations respecting these boulders stuck in the moss : they are a Druidic temple, an oratory, a monument ; and the larger of the three is the subject of a mythical legend about a giant who was killed by an arrow from behind it, and is thought (says the minister of the parish, in his Statistical Account, 1834) 'to have given rise to the well-known story of Jack the Giant-killer.' (!) Besides Oliver Castle, there are the remains of several border- towers or ancient hunting-seats, including those of Fruid and Hawkshaw. The place last named, situated on a burn amidst a wild district on the east side of the infant Tweed, was in early times the property of the family of Porteous, members of which frequently come into notice in old records. One of the later proprietors was William Govan, from whom, in 1819, it passed to his nephew, Adam Stewart, who sold it to Graham Bell, advocate, for (as is said) 9000. Including Badlieu, Tweedhopefoot', and Glencraigie, its present rental is >iioo. The other pro- prietors and their rentals are Earl of Wemyss (Hearthstane, Talla, &c.); ^"2412, I2s. ; SirG. G. Montgomery, Bart. (Minzion), 1274, Ss. 6d. ; Anthony Nichol (Glenbreck and Riggs), 290 ; Benjamin T. G. Anderson (Carterhope), 260 ; Thomas Welsh (Tweedshaws and Earlshaugh), 254, ^s. ^d. ; William Scott (Fingland), 200 ; George Tweedie Stoddart (Oliver and Bield), 145. Lesser properties, 55, i6s. 8d. The charm of Tweedsmuir, if there be a charm about it, consists of its singularly wild burns Core, Fruid, Talla, Minzion, and others ; the Talla, with its dashing linns, being perhaps the most picturesque of all, and doubly interesting from having a tributary, Gameshope Burn, which issues from a high-lying and lonely sheet of water, called Gameshope Loch, abounding in dark-coloured trout, well known to anglers. The Tweed arises within the parish, at a height, as formerly stated, of about 1784 feet above the level of the sea. STOBO. STOBO parish is situated partly on the right, but principally on the left, bank of the Tweed, extending from the Lyne on the north to Holm's Water on the south. 1 Anciently, it embraced the whole of the upper section of the Tweed, and possessed a peculiar civil and ecclesiastical status. It formed a manor of the Bishop of Glasgow, and as such, was connected with the regality of that see. The cure was a vicarage of the same episcopate, held by a prebend of Glasgow, and subordinate to it were the chapelries or pendicles of Lyne, Dawick, Drum- melzier, Tweedsmuir, Broughton, and perhaps also Glenholm and Kingledoors. George Chalmers sarcastically remarks, that ' the rights to the manor of Stobo have been as fiercely contested as the sovereignty of Scotland.' 2 Disputes on this subject were followed, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, by the famous contest respecting the 'Marches of Stobo,' or boundaries of its ecclesiastical polity. The matter being referred to an inquest of 'neighbours,' they gave a decision which was confirmed by Alexander II. in 1223. The only interest now entertained respecting the case is in the list of the persons concerned, which, being preserved in the Registers of the Archbishopric of 1 Superficies, 10,373.715 acres. Ord. Sur. In 1861, population 478. Valued rental in 1863, .4206, or. "id. 3 Caledonia, vol. ii. p. 954. STOBO. 433 Glasgow, gives us the names of the ' neighbours,' all presumedly individuals of some local note about the year 1206. We copy a list of them below. 1 Stobo subsided into a parish of comparatively limited dimen- sions after the Reformation, but was slightly increased by incor- porating a part of the suppressed parish of Dawick in 1642. The name has been written in many different ways as Stoboc, Stobhow, and Stubbehok, all signifying ' the hollow of stobs or stumps,' from which we may understand that the district was anciently covered with wood. Besides several British hill-forts, recorded in our list, the parish possesses some objects of antiquarian interest. Among these, a prominent place may be assigned to the two Standing-stones on Sheriff Muir, pictured at page 23. They are unshapely boulders, without carving or inscription, but have seemingly been set up in very remote times, for a special object, probably commemorative of some event of importance. The plain on which they are erected forms a kind of peninsula between the Tweed and the Lyne, and as suitable for martial array was at one time employed as a place of military convocation by the sheriffs of the county ; and hence its name. In the section of the parish south of the Tweed, near Easter Dawick, there is pointed out on a rising ground the site of a feudal keep called the Lour. The spot, to all appearance, was occupied by a British fort long before it was appropriated for a border-tower, and the vestiges of the 1 Sir Adam the son of Gilbert ; Sir Milo Corneht ; Sir Adam the son of Edolf ; John Ker the hunter at Swhynhope ; Gillemihhel Ques-Chutbrit at Trefquer ; Patrick of Hopekeliou ; Mihhyn Brunberd at Corrukes ; Mihhyn the son of Edred at Stobbo ; Cristin the hermit of Kyngeldores ; Cos-Patric the hermit of Kylbeuhoc ; Padin the son of Kercau at Corrukes ; Gillemor the son of Kercau at Corrokes ; Cristin Gennan the serjeant (seruiens) at Trefquer ; Gylcolm the smith at Pebles ; Gylmihhel the son of Bridoc at Kyngeldures ; Gylis the son of Buht at Dunmedler ; Gillecrist the son of Daniel at Glenwhym ; Matthew, James, and John, the sons of Cos-Mungho the priest at Edoluestone ; Cos-Patric Romefare ; Randulf of Meggete ; Adam of Seles the clerk ; Gillecryst the son of Huttyng at Currokes ; Gilbert the parson of Kylbeuhhoc ; Gylmor Hund at Dauwic ; Mihhyn the steward of Dauwic ; Dudyn of Brouhtune ; Patric the son of Caswale at Stobbo ; Adam and Cosouold the sons of Muryn at Oliver Castle. ' For further particulars concerning the ancient character and condition of Stobo, we must refer to the Origina Parochiala Scotia, voL L p. 196. 2 B 434 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. ancient circumvallation are still traceable. The Lour is on the old thoroughfare which here crossed the heights from Glack, in Manor parish. At the top of the ascent, there is a spot called the ' Dead Wife's Grave,' where, according to tradition, an Irishwoman, sharing the fate of her husband, was mercilessly slaughtered by the country-people the unfortunate pair having not improbably been fugitives from the disastrous field of Philiphaugh. On the north bank of the Tweed, about three miles from Sheriff Muir, is the small village of Stobo, adjoining which, on a Fig. 74. Church of Stobo. slightly elevated ground amidst trees, stands the parish church, an old building of more than ordinary interest. As will be observed from our sketch, it consists of three parts tower, nave, and chancel the work of different periods. From certain architectural details, more particularly the rounded arch of the doorway within the porch, the oldest part of the building is evidently of the Saxon period, and so far may therefore be considered the earliest ecclesiastical structure now existing in Tweeddale. The other parts of the edifice are of the Norman STOBO. 435 or later period ; and bearing in remembrance that Stobo was intimately associated with the episcopate of Glasgow, we cannot be surprised to find that, through the care of successive bishops, its church should possess qualities of a high architectural order. Like edifices, however, of much superior pretensions, it was doomed to suffer from the great religious convulsion of 1560. Stripped of its ornaments, everything that bad taste could suggest to mar its effect was carried out. The finer mouldings were shrouded in plaster, some of the windows and a doorway were built up, and the interior fittings were rendered as rude and unseemly as was practicable. As a finishing characteristic stroke, at the access of religious severity in the reign of Charles I., an iron chain and collar, with padlock, were attached to the exterior of the porch, of which apparatus we offer a sketch in the adjoining cut, fig. 75. With little improvement, this state of things remained until 1863, when the whole edifice underwent a com- plete and very successful restoration, suitable to modern usages, at the cost of Sir G. Graham Montgomery, Bart., the principal heritor. 1 Fi fr 75- We are told by Armstrong that the parish formerly possessed nineteen tenants, who occupied what were called ' the nineteen towns of Stobo ; ' but that in his time the number was greatly 1 From an interesting account of the architectural disclosures made in repairing the church, written, we believe, by the present minister of the parish, and published in the Edinburgh Courant, October 8, 1863, we gather the following particulars : ' An old monumental tomb with a canopy stood in the north wall of the chancel. It bore a shield at the top, on which a cross had probably stood out in bold relief ; for the four fractured places on the stone shield occur just where the arms of a sculptured cross would have adhered. There was no lettering on the tomb, save a neatly carved W on every stone of it, beginning with the left or west side (the head of the tomb) and following the semicircle of the stilted arch all round until it became inverted at the foot thus, M. I* was found necessary to change the position of the tomb to a certain extent, and in the process, two quaint old Norman windows were discovered, which had been completely built up and hidden, in order to admit the insertion of the canopy. The monument was therefore removed to another part of the chancel, and the windows have been restored. As much of the arch of one window remained as enabled us to see how both windows should be finished. The tomb contained a skeleton with its hands crossed over the breast. Five coins were found beside it ; foui 436 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. reduced. The lands are now laid out in the improved style common throughout the county, and with much fine wood, there is on the lower grounds more than an ordinary degree of amenity. The bulk of the parish forms part of the old barony of ' Stanhope and Stobo/ once the property of the Hurrays, whose residence was at Stobo House. Such, says Armstrong, was ' the seat of the ingenious Sir Alexander Murray of Stanhope, who enclosed and planted the most improvable part of the estate ; but the road called Stobo Hedges has been justly execrated by every traveller, whose difficulty in passing for a mile and a half through a continued mass of mortared earth, confined by two hedges, was truly pitiable. The situation of the house, and the extensive improvements made on the policy by the present proprietor (1775), are inimitably picturesque.' Long since, the road between Stobo Hedges has been made as passable as any in the county; and what would Armstrong say now of the pleasure- grounds which he saw only in their commencement? Of the person he refers to as the ' present proprietor/ we must offer some account Under the head Drummelzier, we have spoken of the Murrays of Stanhope, and the catastrophe which terminated their con- nection with Peeblesshire. Sir David Murray being a political exile, and his affairs in disorder, the barony of Stanhope and Stobo was sold by a decree of the Court of Session in 1767, and purchased by James Montgomery for ^40,500 ; the lands comprehended in the transaction being situated in the parishes being coins of German bishops, and one a Scotch coin. All the German coins bear German inscriptions ; the Scotch one, which is hardly legible, seems to be in Latin. The largest coin has on one side, " Wolf, Bishop of Nurnberg ; " and on the other, " Pfennigmacher in Regha," which may be liberally interpreted, " Master of the mint in Rega." The next largest coin has the two inscriptions "John Krauwinkel, Inn." (Innstadt?) and " Heit, Rottmorgen Dott" names, perhaps, of places in or near Bavaria. The third coin bears, "John, Bishop of Niirnberg," and "God determines and overrules all." The fourth coin, like the second, has "John Krauwinkel, Inn.," and "The kingdom of God remaineth for ever." All the four have, on one side, the cross surmounting a globe or circle, and surrounded by the usual Romish border, and on the other side a circle of coronets. The fifth and smallest coin has the Scotch thistle on one side and the Lion on the other, with inscriptions which we can only guess to be "Jacobus D. G. et Magd'len" and "I. R. M. Sco. Fran." If we are correct, the coin was struck in 1537, when James V. married Magdalen of France. 1 STOBO. 437 of Drummelzier, Tweedsmuir, and Stobo. The new proprietor was the second son of William Montgomery of Macbie Hill. (See NEWLANDS.) Bred a lawyer, he, as stated in a previous page, became the first sheriff-depute of Peeblesshire, under the new arrangement, 1748 ; the salary he enjoyed in this office being 150 per annum. The rise of James Montgomery from this position was so very remarkable, that we must impute it to more than a usual amount of talent. He was appointed successively solicitor-general and lord advocate, and while in this last-men- tioned office in 1768, he was nominated member of parliament for the county. Previous to attaining to this position, Mr Mont- gomery had become a land proprietor. In 1763, he purchased Whim, in the parish of Newlands, from John, Duke of Argyle ; within four years afterwards, as above stated, he bought the fine estate of the Murrays of Stan- hope, and almost at the same time he acquired the lands of Nether Falla, in the parish of Eddleston a sudden improve- ment of fortune ascribable, no doubt, to great professional success, as well as a judicious use of means, but perhaps also in some degree to his marriage with Margaret, daughter and heiress of Robert Scott of Killearn. In 1775, he was raised to the dignity of Lord Chief Baron of Exchequer in Scotland, and it was now he commenced those extensive improvements around Stobo House, which are spoken approvingly of by Armstrong. In his old age, the Lord Chief Baron Montgomery's portrait was painted in the dress in which he sat on the bench, and by means of a photograph from this finely executed picture in Stobo Castle, we are enabled, in fig. 76, to give a slight idea of his appearance. On his retiring from office in Fig. 76. HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. 1 80 1, he was, in acknowledgment of his public services, created a baronet of the United Kingdom. Sir James Montgomery did not long survive this distinction. He died in 1803, aged eighty-two. His eldest son, William, having predeceased him, he was suc- ceeded in the estates and title by his second son, Sir James Mont- gomery, who had been also bred a lawyer, and was appointed lord advocate in 1804, but resigned office in 1806. William Montgomery, the elder brother, had become member of parlia- ment for the county in 179/3, and remained member till his death in 1800, when James succeeded to the appointment, which he retained till 1830. In the hands of Sir James Montgomery, the second baronet, the estate was expanded and considerably improved. In 1801, two years before the death of his father, he bought the farm of Easter Happrew for 3720. Afterwards, there was some trouble concerning this transaction. The farm had formed part of the March estate, and though entailed, was sold by the Duke of Queensberry, under some alleged statutory authority, to redeem the land-tax. The Earl of Wemyss, as heir of entail, challenged the sale of the lands, but it was finally confirmed as being valid by the House of Lords. At the time of the purchase, the farm (occupied by Charles Alexander) was under currency of one of those exceedingly long leases to which we formerly alluded. The rent was then 136, iu. 6d. j 1 it is now 5 25.* In 1805, Sir James began to build Stobo Castle, from plans by J. and A. Elliot, architects. The house was finished in 1811, and is on a spacious scale, with bold picturesque effect, which is greatly aided by its commanding situation on an eminence overlooking the Tweed and woody heights of Dawick. The pleasure-grounds by which it is environed, more resemble in extent and beauty the park-scenery of England than any others in the county. At the death of Sir James, 1839, he was succeeded by the present baronet, Sir Graham Graham Montgomery, his eldest son by his second marriage with a daughter of Thomas Graham of Kinross through whom Sir Graham has inherited 1 House of Lords Papers. * Stobo Papers. STOBO. 439 the Kinross estate, which includes Loch Leven and its interesting islands and environs. Sir Graham has been member of parlia- ment for Peeblesshire since 1852 ; valued rental of Peeblesshire properties, in parishes of Drummelzier, Tweedsmuir, Stobo, Newlands, and Eddleston, in 1863, 5539, io/j. 6d. Fig- 77- Stobo Castle. On the face of the hill, in a westerly direction from Stobo Castle, is the Stobo slate-quarry, which has been in operation for at least two centuries. Its produce is highly extolled by Pennecuik for making a ' beautyful roof.' But the slate is of a coarse description, from which, or some other cause, it has been little wrought in recent times. Immediately beyond, also on the high ground, overlooking the Plain of Drummelzier, is Dreva, formerly a stronghold of one of the Tweedies, but now distinguished only for its modern and tasteful farm-steading. In the immediate neighbourhood is the British hill-fort of Dreva Craig. BROUGHTON, KILBUCHO, AND GLENHOLM. THESE are three parishes, united for ecclesiastical pur- poses, with the exceptional circumstance, that a portion of Kilbucho is, for like purposes, attached to Culter in Lanarkshire. Such arrangements, however, in no respect alter the civil status of the parishes. Each in its original dimensions remains a distinct parish within the sheriffdom of Peebles for all civil purposes whatsoever. 1 United quoad sacra, the parish is provided with a central church at Broughton, a neat village of modern erection, which may be called the metropolis of the district. Consisting of hills, valleys, and level plains, the united parish is very varied in outline, the lower parts being under culture, and, at some places, finely sheltered and decorated with woods. Cut off naturally by its position from Peebles, it has lately been brought in connection with that town by means of the branch of the Caledonian Railway from Symington and Biggar ; a ready communication with Glasgow being at the same time effected. Broughton has acquired a degree of notoriety by having been 1 In the Ordnance Survey Maps, part of Kilbucho is included in Culter, and the portion of Culter so enlarged is made to appear as if it were in Peeblesshire. This blunder, which is repeated in the Census Tables of 1861, has seemingly arisen from a misapprehension of the merely ecclesiastical character of the union of a part of Kilbucho with Culter (convenience in going to church). We have to state explicitly, on the authority of county officers, that no part of Culter is in Peeblesshire, and no part of Kilbucho is in Lanarkshire. Our county map shews the true boundaries. Super- ficies of the united parishes, 1 8, 121. 571 acres. Ord. Sur. But this does not include 1712.894 acres, improperly assigned to Culter. In 1821, population of the united parishes, 723. Valued rental of the united parishes in 1863, ^9472, 5.1-. 03 2 Scots, with, in addition, 1665 Scots for sheriff's fees ; unitedly, about ^2913 sterling. By Sir James Hamilton, this fine domain was sold, in 1641, for 90,000 merks, or 5000 sterling, to James Livingston, ' ane of his Majesties Bedchamber, and keeper of his privy purse.' In 1648, Livingston disposed of it for ^5200 sterling to Sir James Murray of Deuchar; and by him or his trustees (for he seems to have had pecuniary difficulties), the lands were sold, in 1681, to the Hon. James Douglas, brother of the first Duke of Queensberry, and of whom we have already spoken, as being one of the unpopular military commanders in 1685. General Douglas went abroad after the Revolution, and died at Namur in 1691, leaving a widow and several children. We are now called on to notice the manner in which the Skirling property came into possession of the Carmichaels, though, from the loss of particulars, the transfer can be described only in a very superficial way* Dame Anne Hamilton, widow of General Douglas, married John Carmichael, first Earl of Hyndford, a person who gained considerable distinction under the Revolution settlement. By some arrangement that cannot now be defined, but which is believed to have arisen from the extinction of General Douglas's male heirs, the estate became vested in the Carmichael family. The first Earl of Hyndford died in 1710, and was succeeded by his eldest son, James, as second earl, who in 1717 was vested in the lands and barony of Skirling. For some reason, the second earl sold the whole of his Peeblesshire property, along with Westraw in Lanarkshire, to his brother, the Hon. William Carmichael, advocate, in 1724, for the sum of .85,315 Scots, or about 7109 sterling. We now turn to that portion of the Castle Craig estate lying in the parish of Kirkurd, which is an aggregation of many small pieces of land, once belonging to Geddeses, Veitches, Browns, Lawsons, Douglases, Hamiltons, and others. Two or three of the principal portions may be referred to. The old five-pound lands of Blyth, held of the Earls of Morton for payment of a pair of gilt spurs, were in the possession of the Lauders in the fifteenth century. Alexander Lauder of Blyth, with several other Peeblesshire lairds, followed James IV. to Flodden, and there perished with the unfortunate monarch. From the Lauders, the lands were assigned to the Veitches of Dawick in 1603, on payment of 3000 merks; in 1635, they were disposed of to John, Earl of Traquair ; and in 1739, they were vested in the Geddeses, from whom, along with SKIRLING AND KIRKURD. 455 other possessions of that unfortunate family, they were acquired, in 1752, by John Carmichael of Skirling. From the preceding sketch, it will be observed that the Castle Craig estate has been acquired, in a great degree, through fortunate marriages and inheritances, but that its extension has also, to some extent, been due to the successful professional pursuits of several of its proprietors. Enjoying so much in the way of good-fortune, the family now in possession has correspond- ingly experienced many afflictions in the loss of direct male heirs. James, second Earl of Hyndford, who, as has been seen, sold Skirling to his brother William, had several sons, who all died unmarried, except John, the elder, who in 1737 became third Earl of Hyndford, and may be called the great man of the family. He was for a time ambassador to Russia, afterwards ambassador to Vienna, and in his latter years expended immense sums in improving and planting his estates. His lordship having died in 1767 without male issue, was succeeded in his title and estates by John Carmichael, eldest son of William Carmichael of Skirling. The estates of the family, already large, now vastly increase. Besides John, who succeeded as earl, William Carmichael of Skirling had a son, James, who was bred an advo- cate then a fashionable profession among landed gentlemen's sons and purchased the lands of Hailes ; dying without issue in 1781, here was a valuable accession to the family inheritance. A daughter, Helen, was married to John Gibson of Durie in Fife, and through her arose new and important connections. The Gibsons, an ancient family in Fife, come prominently into notice in the person of Sir Alexander Gibson, an eminent lawyer in the reign of James VI., who was appointed a senator of the College of Justice in 1621, and a few years later advanced to be Lord President of the Court of Session. He was created a baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles I. in 1628 ; and, as Sir Alexander, had previously married Margaret, daughter of Sir Thomas Craig of Riccarton, Lord Advocate of Scotland, and acquired charters of lands in different quarters. John Gibson of Durie, who married Helen Carmichael, had two sons, 456 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Alexander and William. Alexander's son was Sir John Gibson- Carmichael of Skirling ; William's eldest son, John, became a merchant in Dantzic, and his second son, James, was the late Sir James Gibson-Craig of Riccarton, created a baronet in 1831, whose eldest son is the present Right Hon. Sir William Gibson- Craig, Baronet. John Carmichael, fourth Earl of Hyndford, died without issue in 1787, when his titles and certain properties went to his cousin, Thomas Carmichael of Mauldslie ; and his paternal property, including the Skirling estates, were inherited by his grand-nephew, the above Sir John Gibson-Carmichael. The assumption of the surname Carmichael after Gibson is in virtue of the obligations of an entail. Sir John was succeeded by his brother, Sir Thomas, who died in 1849. Two of his sons, Alexander and Thomas, have successively inherited the baronetcy and estates ; and a third son, Sir William-Henry, is the present baronet. A deed of entail of the Skirling, Kirkurd, and other properties was executed by John, fourth Earl of Hyndford, the next heir to the present family being indicated to be William Gibson, merchant, and his heirs. Previous to the execution of the entail, Rachan was sold, in 1765, to James Loch ; and since the earl's death, some changes have been effected by sale and purchase, in virtue of a special act of parliament ; 1 valued rental of the properties, in parishes of Skirling, Kirkurd, Linton, and Newlands, in 1863, .5362, 8s. jd. On the Castle Craig estate, in a direction westward from the mansion, on the post-road between Edinburgh and Moffat, is a hamlet called Harestanes, which has derived its name from certain standing-stones of unknown antiquity, but which, as is usual in cases of this kind, have been ascribed to the Druids. They more probably are the memorial of a victory which had been gained on the spot. Immediately west from Harestanes, lies the pretty estate of Nether Urd, with its mansion, a plain modern building embosomed in trees, at present the seat of the proprietor, John White of 1 Skirling Papers, from which nearly the whole of the foregoing particulars have l>een gathered. SKIRLING AND KIRKURD. 457 Drummelzier. Nether Urd was formerly possessed by John Lawson of Cairnmuir, who gave it the name of New Cairnmuir, which tasteless designation has very properly been relinquished. From the trustees of Mr Lawson, the property was purchased, in 1834, by John White, son of Andrew White of Drummelzier, at Fig. 82. Nether Urd. the price of i8,ooo. 1 Besides Drummelzier, Mr White has inherited from his father a portion of Howburn, the old paternal property in Lanarkshire. The Nether Urd estate comprehends West Mains of Nether Urd, farm and mill of Nether Urd, and Nether Urd home-farm ; valued rental in 1863, 741, los. The only other proprietor in Kirkurd parish (some of minor import- ance excepted) is the Duke of Buceleuch ; valued rental in 1863, 160, js. yi. 1 Drummelzier Papers. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. LINTON, or WEST- LlNTON, as it is sometimes called for the sake of distinction, is a large parish, forming the north- west corner of the county. 1 The comparatively high-valued rental, noted below, indicates the superior character of the parish, much of which, on the north, consists of the hill-pasturages lying on the borders of Mid-Lothian ; the remainder comprehending fine arable lands in the lower or southern section, adjoining the banks of the Lyne. Linton is not an uncommon name. It signifies the town on the pool or water ; but this Linton was, as early as the twelfth century, known in a special manner as Linton-Roderick or Rutherick, probably from the name of the principal landholder in the district. Until the Reformation, the church of Linton-Roderick was a vicarage of the abbey of Kelso. For convenience, we take along with Linton the adjoining parish of Newlands. 2 Both form the upper valley of the small river Lyne and its tributaries, and both constitute a district on the southern base of the Pentland Hills, separated in a consider- able degree from the valley of the Tweed. Partaking somewhat of the geological character of Mid-Lothian, and some portions of them possessing lime, coal, and sandstone, they partially 1 Superficies, 23,420.883 acres. Ord, Sur. In 1861, population 1534. Valued rental in 1863, j 10,170, ^s. gJ. * Superficies, 12,560.636 acres. Ord. Sur. In 1851, population 987. Valued rental in 1863, 8935, u. 4d, sterling ; in 1863, its valued rental was 951, ios. The present proprietor of Newhall and Carlops is Hugh Horatio Brown, son of the editor of the Works of Pennicuik, by whom much was done to beautify the grounds around Newhall House, and identify them with the scenery of the Gentle Shepherd. In this part of the country, the rocky structure consists of that kind of friable yellow sandstone, which, being easily sawn down by the action of water, produces picturesque cliffs overhanging the streams. The North Esk, accordingly, in passing Newhall, has lofty banks, which, being well clothed in shrubbery, are exceedingly beau- tiful. A rivulet which pours through the grounds, having here and there patches of meadow on its margin, has been assumed to be the burn which Ramsay has rendered classic as connected with Habbie's Howe. On the level ground near the edge of the cliff, stands the mansion of Newhall, lately modernised in a good style, but which, being situated within Edinburghshire, does not fall within the range of the present work. Westward from Linton, immediately beyond North and South Slipperfield, is Mendick Hill, a conspicuous pyramidal mount, 1 Newhall Papers. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 469 rising to a height of 1291 feet above the level of the sea ; and at the westerly base of which is the property of Garvald, lying on the confines of the county in this direction. At this point, an opening in the range of hills forms a pass into Lanarkshire, with rivulets running in opposite directions, and through which hollow the Caledonian Railway Company is about to construct a branch-line from the terminus of the Dolphinton Railway to Carstairs. Tig. 85. Garvald House. Garvald House, or Garvald Foot, as it was formerly termed, is the mansion connected with the property, situated near ' Medwin's murmuring stream,' and now the residence of the proprietor, William Allan Woddrop. The lands of Garvald belonged for a long period to a family of the name of Douglas, and passed by marriage into the family of Dick of Preston- field. In 1827, they were purchased by John Woddrop of Dalmarnock, father of the present proprietor, at the price of .1 1,650.' Woddrop, as will be observed from the name, is a Lanarkshire proprietor, and the family has inherited several 1 Garvald Papers. 47O HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. properties in that county, including valuable feus in Glasgow. John Woddrop succeeded as heir of entail to the estate of Elsridgehill or Ellsrickle, situated partly in Peeblesshire, and partly in Lanarkshire. He assumed the name of Allan, and became John Allan Woddrop. To extend the Garvald estate, he, in 1830, purchased the lands of Ingraston and Kippit from the trustees of John Lawson of Cairnmuir, whose family had been in possession since 1653, at the price of 6250. Mr Woddrop disposed of Kippit to the late Richard Mackenzie of Dolphinton, and retained Ingraston. 1 In 1863, the valued rental of the Garvald property, within Peeblesshire, was 578. As Dolphinton lies beyond the boundary of the county, any account of it belongs properly to a description of the Upper Ward of Clydesdale ; it need only be said that John Ord Mackenzie, now in possession, is a descendant of the Browns who held the lands of Dolphinton in I54O. 2 The part of his estate called Kippit, lying within Peeblesshire, had, in 1863, a valued rental of ^144, 3-r. 7d. Like some other parts of Linton parish, Kippit is remarkable for ancient sepulchral tumuli. There are several other properties in the parish of Linton, 8 but none to call for particular remark, except that of Spitalhaugh, situated on the banks of the Lyne, about a mile south from the village of Linton. The name Spitalhaugh is derived from an ancient Hospitium or Hospital of a religious kind on the spot probably a place of temporary refuge for wayfarers along the bleak mosses which at one time stretched widely around. The abbreviation of Hospital into 'Spital is common in the names of places in Scotland. In the sixteenth century, the lands of Spitalhaugh were in possession of the Douglases, two of whom, Hector and James, were 1 Garvald Papers. s Dolphinton Papers. 8 Sir W. H. Gibson-Carmichael, .600 ; Colonel M'Dowal of Logan, ,600 ; John Forrester, W.S., and Rev. A. Forrester, Linton (cousins of W. A. Forrester of Barns, and, like him, descended from Provost Forrester of Peebles, 1707), ^273 ; the Earl of Wemyss, .250 ; heirs of John Dobbie of Deanfoot, ,240 ; Miss Jane Craig Dalziel, 219, icw. yd. ; Charles Cowan of Valleyfield, .163, 3^. ^(^. ; minor properties, .863, us. lod. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 4/1 accused (1565-6) of being concerned in the murder of Rizzio. Afterwards, Spitalhaugh and various other lands in this quarter were possessed by the Hays, Earls of Tweeddale. John, the second earl, disponed the lands of Spitalhaugh, Bordlands, Kamehouse, and some others, in 1678, to Richard Murray, who is said to have built in that year the house of Spitalhaugh. Richard Murray was the second son of Sir Alexander Murray, second baronet of Blackbarony. His elder brother, Archibald, succeeded as third baronet, and he in turn was succeeded by his son, Alexander, as fourth baronet. Sir Alexander dying without issue, the main family inheritance and baronetcy fell to the Spitalhaugh branch. Richard Murray of Spitalhaugh married first Mary, daughter of Brown of Coalston, but she died without issue ; and he married secondly Jean, daughter of James David- son, writer in Edinburgh, by whom he had a son, William. Richard having died before his nephew, Sir Alexander, his son William became the fifth baronet of Blackbarony. It was William who, previous to this auspicious event, is referred to in one of Pennicuik's poems as ' Slee Spitalhaugh,' a lover of jests not of the highest quality. Like his panegyrist, he began to get rid of his lands, by disposing of Kamehouse, in 1728, to George Kennedy, who had eight years previously acquired Romanno. Ten years later, in 1738, he disposed of the remainder to Charles Hamilton, son of John Hamilton of Gil- kerscleugh, who was for some time a surgeon in the island of Nevis, West Indies. Coming into the possession of this family, the estate was diminished by the trustees of Andrew Hamilton of Spitalhaugh, who, in 1805, sold the lands of Bordlands and Kirklands of Cowthrople to William Aitchison for .7350. Spital- haugh descended to Helen Hamilton Ranken, grand-niece of the above Charles Hamilton. 1 This lady, by her marriage with William Fergusson, 1833, brought the property into the family of that name, now in possession. Bred a surgeon in Edinburgh, Mr Fergusson has, through his great talents, risen to the highest 1 Spitalhaugh Papers. 472 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. rank in his profession, and, resident in London for the greater part of the year, occupies the office of professor of the Principles and Practice of Surgery, King's College. Since acquiring Spital- haugh, he has made large additions to the estate ; his purchases including part of Kamehouse, also Damside, Noblehall, and Broomlee. Fig. 86. Spitalhaugh. Mr Fergusson has expended large sums in improving and beautifying Spitalhaugh ; the more prominent of the new amenities, which have greatly altered the aspect of the property, being drives along the Lyne, a commodious bridge across that water, for the convenience of the mansion, and a new approach from the highway on the south. The old house has received so many additions in the form of turrets, wings, and other parts, in a picturesque style of architecture, that its character is entirely changed. Mr Fergusson has also built a tasteful lodge for a gatekeeper at the extremity of the southern approach. These alterations, along with planting and the laying out of garden and pleasure grounds, have made Spitalhaugh a LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 473 conspicuous ornament to this part of the county; Valued rental in parishes of Linton and Nevvlands, 1498, igs. id. Newlands, which is chiefly the southern section of this district of country, has two or three hamlets, scarcely amounting to the character of a village Romanno Bridge, Mountain Cross, and Cant's Walls. The place last mentioned, on the left bank of the Fig. 87. Bordlands House. Lyne, near the old church of Newlands, consists of two or three slated houses one of them the parish school occupying the site of a thatched clachan fondly commemorated by Dr Pennicuik. Betwixt Spitalhaugh and Cant's Walls lies the small estate of Boreland, or Bordlands. This property, formerly connected with Spitalhaugh, was sold, in 1805, by the trustees of the late Andrew Hamilton to William Aitchison for 7350. By Mr Aitchison, the lands were reclaimed, laid out very prettily in fields spreading up the hill, and greatly beautified by planta- tions. Having in this manner, as is alleged, spent about 20,000 on improvements, he made over the property to his son, Francis Aitchison, at the price of 17,000. Bordlands, however, did not remain with the family who had made so many sacrifices. 474 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. In 1851, when there was a general depression in the value of property, the estate was bought by Alexander M'Neill for i i,ooo. 1 Mr M'Neill, a son of the late Neil M'Neill of Ard- nacross, Argyllshire, had spent a number of years in mercantile pursuits in Java, from which having returned to Scotland, he settled down in this part of Peeblesshire. Since coming into possession of Bordlands, he has added to the improvements of his predecessors. The mansion has been built in a pleasing style, from plans of Mr James Campbell Walker, and the grounds laid out in a manner to correspond with this renova- tion ; valued rental in 1863, 468. Fig. 88. Callands House. Adjoining Bordlands, in a southerly direction, is the estate of Callands, consisting chiefly of certain high grounds on the right bank of the Lyne, on which is found the very finely marked ancient British fort of Henderland Hill. The estate embraces part of the lands at one time called Cowthrople. In 1682, the lands of Callands were assigned by the Earl of Tweeddale to 1 Bordlands Papers. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 475 Alexander Bailie, and the Bailies possessed the property until 1712, when it was sold to the Earl of March for 11,800 merks. The lands were afterwards disposed of by the earl to Robert Geddes of Scotston, from whom they passed to his brother, James Geddes of Rachan. Callands was subsequently detached from the properties which were acquired by John Carmichael of Skirling from the Geddeses ; and after being in possession of John Aitken, the property was, in 1840, purchased by James Murray for 8000. * By Mr Murray, whose family has long been connected with the neighbourhood, great improvements have been effected on the lands. He has also renovated the mansion in the picturesque style shewn in fig. 88. Valued rental of Callands in 1863, 320. On the westerly side of the hill, behind Callands, lies the old property of Scotston, which has been absorbed in the Castle Craig estates. Though now only a portion of a great domain, there are special reasons for referring to Scotston. In 1683, it was possessed by a family named Brown. By James Brown, the lands of Scotston, with the pendicle of Knocknowes, was disponed, in 1724, to Robert Geddes, apothecary in Edinburgh, at the price of 12,094 Scots. In 1749, at the time the Geddeses were sinking to ruin, Scotston was sold by James Geddes to Alexander Telfer of Symington, for 24,748 Scots, or 2062, 6s. Sd sterling. 2 Mr Telfer, who had been connected with the works at Leadhills, married Jean Smollett, sister of Tobias Smollett, the eminent novelist and historian. We learn from the memoirs of Smollett, that on his excursion to Scotland in 1755, shortly after completing his translation ot Don Quixote, and when he had been sixteen years absent from his native country, he made a short visit to Scotston. At this time, old Mrs Smollett was living with her daughter, Mrs Telfer, and it was arranged that Tobias should be introduced to her as a gentleman from the West Indies, who was intimately acquainted with her son. The better to support his assumed character, he 1 Callands Papers. * Skirling Papers. 476 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. endeavoured to preserve a very serious countenance, approaching to a frown ; but while his mother's eyes were riveted, with the instinct of affection, upon his countenance, he could not refrain from smiling. She immediately sprang from her chair, and throwing her arms around his neck, exclaimed : ' Ah ! my son, my son ! ' She afterwards told him that, if he had kept his austere looks, and continued to gloom, she might have perhaps been deceived ; but ' your old roguish smile,' she added, ' betrayed you at once.' We present a sketch of the house in which took place this interview between Smollett and his mother. Fig. 89. Scotston. When Smollett again visited Scotland in 1766, the Telfers were living in their town-house, which consisted of a flat in St John Street, Canongate (first common stair on the right hand in passing through the arch). Here, during his residence in Edinburgh, the novelist made such observations as enabled him to write his Humphry Clinker, in which the best, as we think, of all his fictions his nephew, Alexander Telfer, younger of Scotston, was the original of Jerry Melford. On the death of her cousin, James Smollett of Bonhill, 1775, Mrs Telfer succeeded to that property, when she resumed her maiden-name of Smollett, and her eldest son assumed the same surname. Alex- ander Telfer Smollett married Cecilia Renton, eldest daughter of LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 477 John Renton of Lamerton, whose younger daughter, Eleanor, was the ' beautiful Miss E R ,' referred to by Smollett in HumpJiry Clinker, as one of the belles of Edinburgh. From Cecilia Renton has been named the village of Renton in the Vale of Leven. In 1787, Mr Telfer Smollett dropped his con- nection with Peeblesshire, by selling Scotston to Captain Eneas Mackay for .7000. * He died proprietor of Bonhill, in 1799, and that estate is now in possession of his grandson, Alexander Smollett, who was member of parliament for Dumbartonshire, 1841-59. It will be seen from this slight family sketch, that had Tobias Smollett survived till 1775 (he died in 1771), he would have inherited the patrimonial domain of Bonhill, in preference to his sister, Mrs Telfer. Scotston remained with the Mackays for about twenty years. By two separate transactions between 1805 and 1807, Captain Mackay parted with the lands of Scotston and Knocknowes to Sir Thomas Gibson-Carmichael, at the price of 20,000 2 a sum about ten times greater than that at which the property had been acquired by Mr Telfer of Symington in 1749, and nearly three times more than his son, Telfer Smollett, had procured for it in 1787. Southwards from Callands and Scotston are the lands of Drochill, now merged in the property of the Earl of Wemyss, and distinguished by the grand ruin of Drochill Castle, previously depicted in these pages. Excepting that portions of the edifice have been abstracted as building materials for the neighbouring bridge across the Tarth, and other purposes, Drochill remains much as it was originally. Pennicuik's description applies in the present day. ' The Nether Drochill hath been designed more for a palace than a Castle of Defence, and is of mighty bulk ; founded, and more than half-built, but never finished, by the then great and powerful Regent, James Douglas, Earl of Morton. Upon the front of the south entry of this castle was J. E. O. M., James, Earl of Morton, in raised letters, with the fetter-lock, as Warden, of the Borders. This mighty earl, for the pleasure of 1 Skirling Papers. * Ibid. HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. the place, and the salubrity of the air, designed here a noble recess and retirement from worldly business ; but was prevented by his unfortunate and inexorable death three years after, anno 1581 ; being accused, condemned, and execute by the Maiden [a species of guillotine], at the Cross of Edinburgh, as art and part of the murder of our King Henry, Earl of Darnley, father to King James the Sixth.' Besides the emblems so referred to, the building shews, over a postern doorway on the west side, the letters J. D., the initials of James Douglas. The ruin is open throughout, except some of the vaults and passages ; and the whole, a kind of pendicle of the farm-steading of Drochill, may readily be inspected by the tourist. The situation of the castle, though dull and lonely, has not been ill chosen. It commands a view of the valleys of the Lyne, Tarth, and Tweed, and could not have been easily taken by surprise. Near Cant's Walls, on the left bank of the Lyne, is erected the new parish church its site, far from a happy one, being an excavation from the side of the hill celebrated for the Romanno terraces. About a hundred yards further down the valley, in a situation more open and cheerful, stand the ruins of the old church of Newlands, with its neat manse, formerly the residence of Charles Findlater, author of the General Vieiv of the Agri- culture of the County of Peebles} At the old church, the valley narrows to a defensible gorge, guarded in ancient times by Whiteside Hill fort on the left, and Henderland Hill fort on the right side of the river, both of which are now merged in sheep-walks. The old properties of Whiteside, Flemington Mill, and Stevenston, stretching along the river opposite Callands and Drochil, are engrossed, like some others in the neighbourhood, in the estate of the Earl of Wemyss, who is the largest heritor in the parish of Newlands. Stevenston incorrectly designated Stevenson in the Ordnance maps 1 Charles Findlater, son of Rev. Thomas Findlater of Linton, was born in 1754; succeeded his father in 1778; and was presented to Newlands in 1790. He retired from active exertion in 1834, and died in 1838. A bust in marble of Findlater, executed at the cost of a body of his admirers, may be seen in the Gallery of Art, Peebles. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 479 appears to have taken its name from a settler, ' Esteune de Steuenston,' who figures in the Ragman Roll. The fortalice of Esteune has long since disappeared, and in place of his ' ton ' there is only now a plain farm-steading, on the face of the bank which overlooks the confluence of the Tarth and the Lyne. Fig. 90. Romanno House. We now return up Lyne Water, pass the ruins of the old church of Newlands, and take in detail the series of estates which stretch in a north-easterly direction towards Leadburn and the Kingside Edge. Few parts of Peeblesshire are more attractive, either as regards family history, or modern agri- cultural improvement. Passing along the public road from Romanno Bridge, we observe on the right, situated on an easy slope, with an outlook northwards, and environed by fine old trees, a two-story mansion plain, rough-cast, solitary a building seemingly of the era of George I., when few thought of oriel windows or turrets. Such is Romanno House, and here it is, viewed from the best point we can select The edifice is the third, or perhaps the fourth, in a series raised by successive proprietors. The earliest 480 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. was a fortalice of the border-tower character, further up the bank ; then, there was a mansion called the Templehouse, taking its name from a piece of ground that had belonged to the Knights Templars ; and probably there was another upon or near the site of the present building, which is reached by a spacious and ancient avenue, worthy of being the approach to a castle. So much can be said respecting this curious old property and its successive occupants, that we feel great difficulty in limiting ourselves to the following brief narrative. The name Romanno has been thought to be derived in some way from the Romans, whose military road is said to have passed through the lands in a northerly direction from the camp at Lyne. We are unable to disprove the correctness of this belief; but there are no traces of a Roman way in this quarter, and it is to be borne in mind that Romanno is of modern orthography. In old charters and records, the word is variously spelled Rothmaneic, Romanach, Rumanack, Rowman- nois, and Romannois this last being common in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Among the Anglo-Normans who settled in Scotland in the twelfth century, was a person named Vermel, or Uermil, who received from David I. a grant of the lands of Romanach. His son, Philip de Vermel, granted a portion of the lands to the monks of Newbottle, between 1179 and 1189, and there were similar grants to the canons of Holyrood. There were several generations of these Vermels in the lands. They were succeeded by the Grahams of Dalkeith, who by marriage were succeeded by the Douglases. The Lyndsays also acquired portions of the territory ; and at length, in 1492, the estate, shrunk to moderate dimensions, is found in the possession of John Romanno of that Ilk, who had evidently adopted a surname from the name of his property. He held the lands blench of the crown for a reddendo of a pound of pepper annually. The last of the surname was Janet Romanno, who, inheriting the property, carried it into the family of Murray, by her marriage (previous to 1513) with William Murray, third son of John Murray of Falahill and Philiphaugh. This family traces its descent from Archibald de Moravia, who signed the Ragman Roll in 1296. The Murrays of Traquair, and probably the Murrays of Blackbarony, had the same origin. The John Murray whose third son married Janet Romanno, has gained notoriety in ballad literature as the ' Outlaw Murray.' We are satisfied, from an examination of the Chamberlain Rolls and the Blackbarony Papers, that he was scarcely entitled to be so designated. His grandfather was John Murray, who in 1462 became Herdkeeper LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 481 to the Queen of James II. in Ettrick Forest ; thereafter, he was appointed Gustos of Newark, and acquired Philiphaugh and the Forest steadings of Harehead, Hangingshaw, and Lewingshope. He appears to have attained to the position of superintendent of the royal forests keeping the castles and houses in repair, furnishing the necessary wood, and sometimes sending such furnishings to Edinburgh Castle ; in short, he was royal factor. His son, Patrick Murray, succeeded at his death as Gustos of Newark and Royal Factor. At the death of Patrick, it is said that his son, John Murray, attempted to hold Newark against the king, and was deposed from office in the Forest ; the ' Sang ' or ballad which speaks of him as an outlaw, seems to be founded on an exaggera- tion of this circumstance. That he did not suffer greatly in character, is evident from the fact of his being depute to Alexander, Lord Erskine, sheriff of Selkirkshire, as early as 1499 ; and in 1509, he was appointed sheriff by royal charter. 1 In the language of the ballad : ' He was made sherifle of Ettrick Foreste, Surely while upward grows the trie ; And if he was na traitour to the king, Forfaulted he should never be. ' The outlaw's eldest son died at Flodden defending the king's person, leaving James, his next brother, to inherit the sheriffship of the Forest, with all the patrimonial grandeur of Philiphaugh, Newark, Foulshiels, Hangingshaw, and other lands in Selkirkshire. William Murray, his third son, married Janet Romanno, and adjourning to Peeblesshire, took up house in the mansion of his bride, where he became the progenitor of the Murrays of Stanhope, and where he not improbably formed acquaintance with his kith and kin at Blackbarony, who had come into the county perhaps a hundred and fifty years earlier. It will be recollected, from our historical narrative (page 115), that springing from the union of William Murray and Janet Romanno, there were a father, son, and grandson, who were put to trouble on account of the murder of a neighbouring laird, and that while they fled from justice, their respective wives were distracted with the expense of main- taining four government officials at a cost of twenty merks monthly. Having happily got over this affair, William, the younger of the three homicides, in due time succeeded to the property, about 1612 ; and it was probably he who, as Laird of Romanno, appeared at the Weapon Show, 1627. At this point, the family would have inevitably remained, if they did not gravitate to ruin, but for a windfall from an unexpected quarter. The laird had a brother, John, who, having no notion of hanging 1 Chamberlain Rolls. 2 E 482 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. about idly, went to London, pushed his way in trade, and became a rich merchant ; his dealings probably being in East India goods, for he was ordinarily known as 'Sour John of the Spiceries.' 1 We can fancy that, throughout his long ascetic plodding in some obscure alley in the City, Sour John had a wild lurking dream of returning to the neigh- bourhood of Romanno, and ending his career as the envied great man of the parish. If his ambition did not go this length, he certainly entertained some expectation of being buried in grand style in the churchyard of Newlands. Returning to Scotland, he appears to have occupied himself in constructing a mausoleum to receive his remains, bearing an inscription in Latin and Greek, to the following effect : ' This stoney fabric is erected as a memorial, in gratitude here, because I am purified by the holy fount.' Sour John of the Spiceries died at Halmyre, 2 and was laid to decay in state, in the aisle which he had prepared for his reception; but every vestige of pos- thumous finery is long since gone, and nothing left to distinguish the spot from the graves of parishioners respecting whom the Baronage is silent. The wealth acquired by Sour John may be presumed to have been a satisfactory acquisition by the House of Romanno, which henceforth began to entertain ideas befitting a family of rank. William Murray, the laird, had a son, David, who received the honour of knighthood from Charles I. ; and in 1634, he acquired the lands of Stanhope, to which he afterwards added the estate of Broughton. Such was the commencement of the once celebrated Hurrays of Stanhope. Sir David Murray's extensive territorial acquisitions seem to have led to his resignation of Romanno; for though he received a confirmatory charter of that property, it descended separately, as if given up under some special family arrangement. Sir David Murray of Romanno, by a second marriage, had three sons Adam, Gideon, and William, and a daughter, Margaret. From Adam sprung the Murrays of Cardon. Margaret became the second wife of Sir Alexander Murray of Black- barony, to whom she bore a son, first of the Murrays of Cringletie. Romanno was ultimately inherited by Margaret Murray (probably a daughter of Gideon or William), 3 and she, in 1676, was married to Dr Alexander Pennicuik. The young physician who thus carried off the heiress of Romanno, was the elder son of Alexander Pennicuik of Newhall, an estate which, as has been mentioned, lies a few miles distant, on the southern slopes of the Pentlands, within the verge of Mid-Lothian. Pennicuik of 1 Pennicuik, Brown's edition, p. 185. s Ibid. p. 1 86. 3 British Family Antiquity, by W. Playfair, 1811. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 483 Newhall had derived his surname from the estate of Pennicuik, of which, by inheritance, he became the proprietor. Having studied medicine and surgery, he acted for a time as surgeon to General Bannier in the Swedish wars, and was employed subsequently as surgeon-general to the auxiliary Scots army sent to England in 1644. By the decease of his father, the surgeon-general became proprietor of Pennicuik; but so dilapidated were the family fortunes, that, on his return from military service, he found it expedient to dispose of the property to an ancestor of the present Sir George Clerk 1 (1646), and to purchase the smaller estate of Newhall his tendency towards this purchase perhaps being promoted by the ancient connection of the family with Slipperfield, in the parish of Linton. We are unable to say who Pennicuik of Newhall married. He had two sons, Alexander, his heir, and James, who practised as an advocate in Edinburgh. Alexander, the writer of the Description of Tweeddale, was born in 1652, probably at Newhall, and therefore a native of Edinburghshire. Like his father, he was educated for the medical profession, which, through life, he practised in the district adjoining his place of birth. Besides possessing literary tastes, he seems to have had an extraordinary fancy for botany, which he cultivated under the auspices of ' Mr James Sutherland,' superintendent of the ' Physick Garden,' Edinburgh. In 1676, as above stated, young Pennicuik married Margaret Murray of Romanno, which place now became his residence. 2 1 The history of the Clerks of Pennicuik is one not unusual in Scotland, for it affords an instance of the retrieval of fortune and distinction by means of trade. The family traces its origin to John Clerk, proprietor of the lands of Killihuntly in Badenoch, who, on account of political circumstances, was obliged to leave that part of the country in 1568. Reduced in fortune, he brought up his son, William, as a merchant in Montrose ; dying in 1620, William left a son, John, who was also bred a merchant, and being of an enterprising spirit, he proceeded to Paris, where, in the pursuits of commerce, he realised a fortune adequate to replace his family hi its original condition. Returning to Scot- land, he bought the estate of Pennicuik, 1646. He died in 1674, and was succeeded by his son, John, who was created a baronet of Nova Scotia, 1679. At his death, 1722, he was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir John, a man of great learning and elegant accomplishments, and author of some popular lyrics. He was the friend and patron of Ramsay, who visited him at Pennicuik a friendship continued by his son and successor, Sir James Clerk, who, within the grounds of Pennicuik, erected a monument to the author of the Gentle Shepherd. By Sir James, the property was greatly improved and embellished, and it is now one of the finest estates adjoining the border of Peeblesshire. The name Pennicuik signifies, in the British tongue, Hill of the Gouk or Cuckoo, a circumstance which suggested to Dr Alexander Pennicuik the subject of one of his cleverest poetical effusions, styled The Gouk and the Mavis. 1 Romanno Papers, consisting of innumerable documents of great interest. In speaking of the property of Romanno, Pennicuik, in his book, says : ' It is in the 484 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Settling at this place, Pennicuik blended the occupations of a country gentleman with those of a medical practitioner, and here he spent the remainder of his life. His rural occupations, according to his own account, were more of an amusing than remunerative character ' I love the net, I please the fishing-hook, In angling by the pretty murmuring brook. To curl on the ice, does greatly please, Being a manly Scottish exercise ; It clears the brains, stirs up the native heat, And gives a gallant appetite for meat. In winter, now and then I plant a tree, Remarking what the annual growth may be ; Order my hedges, and repair my ditches, Which gives delight, although not sudden riches. So, when of these sweet solitudes I tire, We have our trysts and meetings in the shire.' A pleasant enough account this of the doctor's tastes, which unfortunately were of so little avail in drawing out the agricultural and pastoral resources of Romanno, that he in time found it advisable to let the property, as a farm, to William Montgomery of Macbie Hill, at the annual rent of 500 merks Scots. 1 Saying little of his rural operations in his work, he takes care to let us know the following incident. * Upon the first of October 1677, there happened at Romanno, on the very spot where the Dove-cot is now built, a memorable Polymachy betwixt two clans of gipsies, the Faws and Shaws, who had come from Haddington fair, and were going to Harestanes, to meet two other clans of these rogues, the Baillies and the Browns, with a resolution to fight them. They fell out at Romanno amongst themselves, about dividing the spoil they had got at Haddington, and fought it manfully. Of the Faws, there were four brethren and a brother's son ; of the Shaws, the father with three sons ; and several women on both sides. Old Sandie Faw, a bold and proper fellow, with his wife, then with child, were both killed dead upon the place, and his brother George, very dangerously wounded. In February 1678, old Robin Shaw, the gipsie, and his three sons, were hanged at the Grassmercat for the above-mentioned murder committed at Romanno; and John Faw was hanged the Wednesday hands of Dr Alexander Pennicuik, by marrying the heiress, Margaret Murray.' Brown, in his note to this passage observes : ' This was our author's father, although he modestly passes over this circumstance, and that he had got Romanno through his mother.' This unfortunate error of Mr Brown, who did not perceive that Pennicuik only spoke of himself in the third person, has misled all who have had occasion to write of the Pennicuik family. As verified by family documents, it was Pennicuik the younger, not the elder, who married Margaret Murray. 1 Romanno Papers. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 485 following for another murder. Sir Archibald Primrose was justice- general at the time ; and Sir George M'Kenzie king's advocate.' To commemorate this affair, Dr Pennicuik, in erecting a dove-cot in 1683, inscribed on the lintel of the door, ' The field of Gipsie blood which here you see, A shelter to the harmless dove shall be.' At the time of this gipsy broil, the country was in a political and religious ferment. Pennicuik, however, took things easily, wrote verses about his friends, enjoyed himself as a convivialist, and, not the least of a Puritan, acted as surgeon to the Tweeddale troop of horse, which was occasionally employed to aid the royal forces under Dalyell, Douglas, and Claverhouse. Tradition says nothing respecting Pennicuik's qualifications as a physician. We know from his book that he took delight in such club-life as could be realised by a pretty frequent assemblage of lairds, small and great, at Linton or at Cant's Walls, the hamlet with its thatched hostel, which the doctor speaks of in the lines, 'To my Friend, Inviting him to the Country.' ' Sir, fly the smoke and clamour of the town, Breathe country air, and see the farms cut down ; Revel o'er Nature's sweets, and dine upon the chief, Praising the granter of the plenteous sheaf. Free from all care, we '11 range through various fields, Study those plants which Mother Nature yields ; On Lyne's meand'ring brooks sometimes we '11 fish, The trout 's a brave but no expensive dish. When limbs are wearied, and our sport is done, We '11 trudge to Cant's Walls by the setting sun ; And then some hours we '11 quaff a cup of ale, And smoke our pipe, backed by a wanton tale. We '11 read no Courant, which the news home brings, For what have we to do with wars or kings ? We '11 ne'er disturb our heads with state affairs, But talk of ploughs, and sheep, and country fairs. Churchmen's contentions we abhor to hear, They 're not for conscience, but for worldly gear, We '11 fear our God, wish well to king and nation, Worship on Sabbath with the congregation ; Thus live in peace, and die in reputation. ' A good resolve, as characteristic and almost as pleasingly expressed as anything in Isaac Walton, and we cannot but feel that Pennicuik, though, properly speaking, no poet, and also an indifferent manager of property, was a man of genial and amiable temperament But qualities of this kind, alone, do not go a great way towards mending one's fortune. There was but a small rental from Romanno ; the medical 486 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. department militia troop-of-horse business included did not pay very munificently, and the doctor had two daughters, who naturally enough made demands on a purse which was not increased in weight by carousals at Linton and Cant's Walls. The result of these various circumstances was, that Dr Pennicuik did not thrive as a land- proprietor. Shortly after the Revolution, he lost his father. The old Esculapius, upwards of ninety years of age, who began life in the reign of James VI., and terminated it under the constitutional regime of William and Mary, was at length consigned to the burial aisle of the Romanno family at Newlands, and his son was put in possession of Newhall. Now the proprietor of two estates, we might not unreasonably expect that Dr Pennicuik, setting his professional gains out of the question, would have retrieved the fortunes of his house. But this, from whatever cause, he failed to do ; and to be quite plain, he finished the fortunes of both the Pennicuiks and the Murrays. The manner in which the doctor shuffled off the ownership of two properties, belongs to the class of cases in which men ruin themselves from parental regard. His surviving family consisted of two daughters. In 1702, the elder was married to Mr Oliphant of Lanton (now Dalmahoy), and Newhall was given to her as a dowry an unfortunate act of generosity, for Oliphant, who is said to have been considerably involved in debt, sold Newhall the following year to Sir David Forbes. Romanno was still left, but so was there another daughter, and likewise some pecuniary difficulties. Margaret, the younger daughter, was married to John Farquharson of Aboyne, and the reversion of the lands of Romanno was disponed to them in 1707; Farquharson becoming bound to pay hjs father-in-law five thousand merks, and to undertake other obliga- tions. 1 According to this transaction, Pennicuik and his wife retained only a liferent interest in the property ; and as they gave a lease of the lands during their joint lives to Montgomery of Macbie Hill, their future connection with Romanno was little else than that which was derived from a small annual rental and the occupation of the dwelling-house. It was in this somewhat reduced condition that Pennicuik composed and gave to the world his Description of Tweeddale, which, in his dedication to William, Earl of March, he says he executed in gratitude to the county. As regards his qualifications for the task, he proceeds to say : ' My employment as physician obliged me to know and observe every corner thereof; so that what I advance in this description proceeds not from hearsay and second-hand, but from ocular inspection and 1 Romanno Papers ; contract of marriage, in which Farquharson's wife is designated daughter of Dr Alexander Pennicuik and of his spouse Margaret Murray. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 487 proper knowledge ; having made so frequent surveys through all the hills and valleys of that country, both on horse and foot, and made a nice scrutiny into all things I found remarkable, especially as to plants, several whereof are naturally produced here, which I have not observed in my herbalising through other shires of the kingdom. And though this shire, my Lord, comes short of many others, both in regard of Extent, Fertility, Wealth, and number of People ; yet without vanity, it may be averred, that a brave and worthy Nobless, a loyal and frugal Gentry, an honest and industrious Yeomanry, possess it ; upon which considerations, it may compete with any shire in the kingdom.' Fig. 91. Old Church of Ncwlands, in ruins. In composing, or at least revising his Description, Pennicuik is traditionally said to have been assisted by his friend, Mr John Forbes, advocate, son of Sir David Forbes, who had purchased Newhall, and cousin of the celebrated Duncan Forbes of Culloden, with which family and its literary acquaintances the doctor enjoyed an intercourse which may be presumed to have assuaged his regrets at the loss of the property. In this society he is believed to have met with Ramsay, who was a frequent visitor at Newhall, the scene beyond all doubt which the poet had in view in his matchless Scottish pastoral, the Gentle Shepherd. From these associations, Romanno and Newhall claim an interest far beyond that which attaches to many superior estates in the neighbourhood. 488 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Meagre as was Pennicuik's Description, it must have appeared a work of some importance at the time, though it failed in any respect to advance the interests of the author. Five years after its appearance, he could not but experience some mortification in seeing the reversion of Romanno sold by Farquharson and his daughter, the transfer, however, being doubtless an act of necessity. Two years later, 1722, Dr Penni- cuik died, and was laid beside his father in the burial aisle in the churchyard of Newlands the spot being now a semi-ruinous enclosure overgrown with nettles, and without a stone to distinguish it from the adjoining places of sepulture. We give a sketch, in the preceding page, of the ruined parish church, beside which repose the ashes of the Romannos, Murrays, and Pennicuiks. The purchaser of Romanno was George Kennedy, to whom the estate, including the ' old fortalice and new mansion thereof,' was sold for 39,000 merks, equal to about 2111 sterling, to be paid by instalments. In the deed transferring the property, there occurs an obligation worthy of note. Kennedy is bound to pay down to Margaret Pennicuik (Mrs Farquharson) ' the sum of fifty guineas in gold in name of compliment and good- will.' 1 This gift was quite according to usage. It was long customary, in buying land, for the purchaser to present the seller's lady with a ring or gown, or some other valuable article, and sometimes a sum of money as a conciliatory offering. 2 Jocularly, the gift, of whatever kind, was called 'the leddy's goun.' A claim of this nature was lately asserted and admitted as a right in an old-fashioned family in Fife, when parting with a small property. If we are to credit the incident related in connection with an early purchase of Halmyre, gifts were also extorted by the seller and his friends from the buyer of lands. Kennedy's purchase was complicated by the existence of the tack or lease of Romanno to William Montgomery of Macbie Hill, during the joint-lives of Dr Pennicuik and his wife. This lease being assigned to him, he continued for a number of years to pay a tack-duty or rent for the property to the doctor's 1 Romanno Papers. 2 1658. This summer, Robin Andrew, collector of the cess of Perthshire, bought Litel Tarvit (which is near Cupar) from Sir David Sibbald ; it stood him 26 thousand merks, and eight hundred merks he gave to Sir David's lady. LAMONT'S Diary. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 489 widow, amounting to 250 merks half-yearly something under 14 sterling, on which small income she dragged out existence in a humble dwelling at Boroughmuirhead, a southern suburb of Edinburgh. That this poor old lady must often have been in great straits, is too evident from the fact of there having been numerous writs of judicial arrestment of money in Kennedy's hands, at the instance of tradesmen with whom she had con- tracted small debts. These arrestments proceed under the authority of the magistrates of Edinburgh, for sums apparently under $ ; the debtor being designated ' Lady Romanno.' On each is an indorsation by Kennedy, ' Arrestment lowsed,' with the date ; shewing that means had been found to satisfy the impatient creditor. Mixed up with these documents, there are proceedings against the unfortunate ' Lady Romanno,' by her son-in-law, Oliphant, on account of a debt she was unable to liquidate. More sorrowful revelations are not found in any family papers in Peeblesshire. Receipts for her half-yearly 'tack-duty' continue until Martinmas 1732; and as none is discovered among Mr Kennedy's papers after that date, we conclude that the widow of Dr Pennicuik died shortly afterwards, in the winter of 1732-33. So ended, almost in a state of destitution, and harassed by law-proceedings, the last of the Murrays of Romanno. We may now present some account of the new laird. George Kennedy, the purchaser of the ancient estate of Romanno, was a younger son of Robert Kennedy of Auchti- fardle, in Lanarkshire. Along with his father, he had, in 1705, been present at a very tragical occurrence, in which his elder brother, Gilbert, had been seriously implicated. The incident is narrated as follows in the Domestic Annals of Scotland. 1 * Archibald Houston, writer to the Signet in Edinburgh, acted as factor for the estate of Braid, the property of his nephew, and in this capacity he had incurred the diligence of the law on account of some portion of Bishop's rents which he had failed to 1 Vol. iii. p. 321. 490 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSIIIRE. pay. Robert Kennedy of Auchtifardle receiving a commission to uplift these arrears, found it to be his duty to give Houston a charge of horning for his debt. One day, Kennedy and his two sons left their house in the Castle Hill of Edinburgh, to go to the usual place of rendezvous at the Cross, when, passing along the Luckenbooths, he was accosted by Mr Houston with violent language, referring to the late legal proceedings. Kennedy, if his own account is to be trusted, gave no hard language in return, but made an effort to disengage himself from the unseemly scene, and moved on towards the Cross. Houston, however, followed and renewed the brawl, when it would appear that Gilbert Kennedy, Auchtifardle's eldest son, was provoked to strike his father's assailant on the face. The people now began to flock about the party Kennedy again moved on, but before he had got many paces away, he heard the sounds of a violent collision, and turned back with his cane uplifted to defend his son. It is alleged that Kennedy fell upon Houston with his cane he had no weapon on his person and while he did so, young Gilbert Kennedy drew his sword, and rushing forward, wounded Houston mortally in the belly. The unfortunate man died a few days afterwards. Auchtifardle's share in this trans- action was held to infer his liability to an arbitrary punishment ; Gilbert fled, and was outlawed, but afterwards was permitted to return home, and in time he succeeded to his father's estate. We hear of him in 1730, as having been brought, by that sad act of his youth, into a very serious and religious frame of life. 1 ' Following the profession of a writer to the Signet in Edin- burgh, George Kennedy held the sinecure appointment of Warden of the Scottish Mint, with a salary of ^150 per annum. As may be assumed from the circumstance of his paying for Romanno by instalments, which were protracted over more than eighteen years, the Warden of the Mint had no great command of ready cash ; but at that period money was a scarce article in Scotland, and independently of being in good credit, Mr Kennedy 1 Wodrow's Analecta, iv. 115. LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 491 owned a number of properties in Edinburgh, the rents of which, however, he had some difficulty in squeezing from their genteel occupants. He also lived in good style. He was a married man with a son and heir, ' Maister Adam,' for whose instruction he employed a tutor at the liberal salary of ;ioo Scots per annum, and a daughter, ' Mistress Jeany,' who was taught the spinet, white stitch, and divers other accomplishments. The town-mansion of the family consisted of a flat at the bottom of the Covenant Close, a dingy cul de sac in the High Street, half- way between the Tron Kirk and St Giles, then a fashionable quarter ; which his brother Gilbert, the young Laird of Auchti- fardle, did not disdain to visit, and whence, at fitting oppor- tunities, the Laird of Romanno made excursions on horseback to his country-seat, in order to see after improvements and purchases connected with rural affairs, for which, possibly, his training at Auchtifardle before being put to the desk in Edin- burgh, properly qualified him. Perhaps he had another object in view. He seems to have been one of those persons who, notwithstanding a deficiency of pecuniary resources, are fond of increasing their landed possessions. While still indebted for the bulk of the purchase-money of Romanno, he bought Kaimhouse, a pretty-lying small property on the north of Halmyre, the seller being William Murray, proprietor of Spitalhaugh and Bordlands. This transaction took place in 1728 ; and a few years afterwards, Kennedy began to note down certain memoranda connected with money matters, which he fortunately left among his papers. Perhaps we may be excused for making such extracts from the memoranda as happen to illustrate past times and manners. 1735, Nov. Paid to Mr Scott of Hundleshop, sheriff-depute, ten pounds Scots, as five years' blench-duty for Romanno. [A debt to the crown of a pound of pepper annually, which had been allowed to run up for five years, now discharged.] 1736, Feb. 1 6. Received from Mr David Monypenny of Pitmillie, one thousand merks, as ten years' rent. I gave particular notice to Pitmillie that he behoved to pay the present rent at Whitsunday. [A land-proprietor of some note occupies a town-mansion at an annual rent of about ,5, i ix. \d. sterling, which he pays only after running up an 492 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. account of ten years, and has to be told that this will not be suffered any longer.] March 29. Lent to Spitalhaugh twenty shillings sterling, without note or bill. He said he was going to raise suspension against Laidley, and to send money for doing it to Robert Murray. [The circumstance of lending a pound sterling to a neighbouring laird, without taking a written acknowledgment for the amount, made the subject of remark.] April 13. Paid to Mr George Buchanan, Adam's teacher, one hundred pounds Scots, as ane year's salary. July. [After narrating sundry payments to Farquharson for Romanno] I now only owe him 6000 merks. Oct. 14. Paid to Nesbit forty shillings as the price of ten ewes and lambs which I got from him in the spring; and forty shillings, as the price of the Dutch brown cow I have now bought from him. Oct 26. Sent line to Mrs Cleghorn, to deliver to Stephen Noble two firlots malt for my use, which he got and carried out. [A browst in a small way, for home use at Romanno.] Nov. 3. Paid 20 shillings sterling, as the price of a dozen Canary ; also paid price of my jockey coat. 1737, Jan. 13. Bought six silver teaspoons from Mr Kerr, goldsmith, and paid him three shillings and sixpence between the new and old spoons, with ane old tongs. Jan. 17. Accounted with Mrs Kennedy for the money she had laid out for things. Jan. 21. Paid Gavin Hamilton [a bookseller in Edinburgh] his account for newsprints, magazines, &c. March i. Taken from Mr Hugh Murray the back house lately possest by Baron Kennedy in Carleston's land, for one year from Whitsunday next ; the rent, Mr Murray said, was formerly 300 merks, but rather than his brother's house should remain unsett, he would take it on him to give it this year for ^15. 1738, March 6. Bought of John Mossman, in Halmyre, a little dun mare, paces naturally, going five years ; price fifty shillings sterling. March 19. Interest paid on the principal sum of 4000 merks still due to John Farquharson. March 21. Insured in the Friendly [Fire] Insurance at Edinburgh, my house in the Covenant Close. March 30. Received payment from brother A. the price of seven pints Usque spirits, and of the stone bottle to put it in, that I sent him from Edinburgh ; also three shillings, the price of the Confession of Faith, that Bailie Hamilton sent and stated to my account. Outliving his payment of tack-duty to Mrs Pennicuik, and LINTON AND NEWLANDS. 493 instalments of purchase-money to Farquharson, George Kennedy had unchallenged possession of Romanno, and could do with it as he liked. In the deed transferring the property to him, mention is made of the ' new mansion ;' but this he appears to have built, for, according to Brown of Newhall's notes to Pennicuik, a new house was erected by Mr Kennedy, ' to obtain a view to the north-east, up the valley of the Deadburn.' The same writer adds : 'His son, Adam Kennedy, its late worthy proprietor, added a court of offices ; and by his care and attention during a long life, in draining, surface-culture, enclosing, and planting, has not only rendered his own estate the neatest and most finished property in this district of the county, but by the influence of his example, has greatly contributed to the obtaining for its former bare, waste moors, bleak cold hills, bogs, and myres, the appellation of the Garden of Tweeddale.' Just as this eulogium doubtless was fifty years ago, such are the vast improvements in the neighbourhood, that Romanno does not now occupy the same prominent position. Its present owner is Major George Kennedy, in whose possession are the Papers to which we owe so many obligations. The reddendo to the crown is now commuted into a payment of 3^. 8H>-a 2==3 5? II Trap and porphyry. Carboniferous llmeitone and coal-neJdi, ; Old Red nnditonc, / r Wrae limwlone. Thornielee Iate. r Old Red eoDglonunto. t. Coal formation, f. Trap and porphyry. 5l8 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. assured has taken place, was, till lately, believed to be the work of water ; but it is now beginning to be seen that a mechanical agent of even greater force has been at work, for such effects, in this and other parts of the earth. Long, long after the first upthrowing of this Lower Silurian province after the whole series of the palaeozoic formations had been completed, after the next or mesozoic series had been added, after even a tertiary series had been deposited in certain more limited areas an immense stretch of time not chronicled in our Southern Highlands the whole of our country was deeply immersed in a sea, bearing along in its currents vast packs of ice, such as are seen in both the Arctic and Antarctic Oceans at the present day. These, charged, or it might be said armed with vast masses of detritus, partly directed in their course by the forms of the subaqueous surface, exercised a prodigious attritive power, cutting of course the deeper into the frame of the earth below where favoured by a hollow previously formed, or where the matters were of a comparatively soft consistence. All great prominences were left rounded. Where an anticlinal rent had taken place, there a valley was pretty sure to be formed. The surface was left overspread with a drift, composed of the blocks, mud, and gravel which the ice-sheet had borne along with it. The memorials of this system of operations are generally recognised in mammillated or rounded forms of the surface, in the srnoothings and striations which many parts of the surface still bear, and in the compact clay-bed or ////, charged with striated boulders, which covers so much ground in Scotland and other countries, being all that was not capable of being melted and drained off of the great grinding agent above described. Throughout Peeblesshire, the superficial deposits in the higher grounds are found to contain great numbers of striated boulders. There is a thick bed of compact reddish clay, containing many such boulders, at Tweedshaws, 1300 feet above the level of the sea. The grauwacke surfaces being generally blazey or splintery, there is a want of smoothings and scratchings; but the rounded forms of the hills speak strongly of the glacial agent. Another memorial of ice-action, consisting of grooving* otflntings along the flanks of the hills, a result determined by comparative hardness or softness of the rocks, and their consequent power of resisting a force applied externally, is to be largely seen on the sides of the Peeblesshire valleys. It therefore appears as an event in the history of our county, that, in the Pleistocene era, it was, like the rest of Scotland, and much of the surface of the earth besides, under a Glacial Sea, from which, in a great measure, the peculiar mould of its superficies was derived. The general current of this sea has been found, by the striations in the valley of the Forth and along the face of the Pentlands, GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY. 519 to have there been from W. 15 S. ; and as this nearly coincides with the strike 1 of the Lower Silurians of Southern .Scotland, we may presume that the ice-movement which moulded Peeblesshire was in the same, or nearly the same direction. To the general mammillated form of the hills there are exceptions in the peaky eminences locally called kipps (Newby Kipps, Shielgreen Kipps, &c.)^ a result, probably, of subsequent disintegration, wearing away soft matters from around those of harder consistence and greater durability. At a date subsequent to these general glacial operations, our country- was the scene of sub-aerial glacial workings on a restricted scale. In all the great valleys of the Highlands, in those of Cumberland, in those of Wales, glaciers like those of the Alps of Switzerland flowed along, bearing detritus (moraines), of which the remains, metamorphosed by subsequent watery action, may yet be clearly traced. The moraines of the glacier of the Clyde Valley are to be seen at Thankerton and Carstairs. Those of the glacier of the Annan Valley make their appear- ance about Wamphray. The glacier which we assume to have passed down the Vale of the Tweed, has left its principal spoils at St Boswell's. 2 Our island must have then been at an elevation at least sufficient to establish perpetual snow in its chief mountain-systems. By this set of ice-operations, the compact boulder-clay resulting from the more wide- spread marine glaciation has generally been swept out from the valleys, and only left on the higher grounds. But the spoils of the sub-aerial glaciers have only been, from this cause, the more conspicuous. The prodigious masses of gravel which we see outspread where the great Highland rivers have found their outlets into the low country for the Tay, between Dunkeld and Perth ; for the Spey and Findhorn, on the plains of Moray ; for the Conan, at Contin are to be regarded as amongst the grandest memorials of this action. The gravel-hills of Carstairs are only a degree less grand. The gravel on the surface, in this last instance, is as purely water-worn as in any other ; but at the basis we detect the characteristic roughness and confusedness of moraine matter, furnishing a key to the heretofore somewhat mysterious history of such accumulations. Between the Epoch of the Sub-aerial Glaciers and the present condi- tion of things, is interjected one of Submergence that is to say, an era during which the land was sunk in the sea to the depth of several hundred feet. This era appears to have terminated in an emergence by stages, varied by occasional re-submergences or new dippings to a limited 1 The line observed by the outcropping strata. 2 We are assured by one of the gentlemen of the Survey, that moraines have been observed in several of the side- valleys of Peeblesshire. December 1863. 520 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. extent. Startling as these declarations of the geologist are apt to appear to ordinary people, they are all founded upon palpable facts, which cannot be interpreted in any other sense. The evidence mainly consists in gravel terraces and plateaux, which could only have been formed in a body of water filling up the valleys to at least the height at which we find them. Each valley was then the bed of an estuary, into which its river discharged gravel, perhaps chiefly derived from the spoils of the previous glacier-action. All gravel in such circumstances falls into a more or less horizontal bedding. When the land rises, the sea, of course, recedes ; this deposit becomes sub-aerial ; the river is prolonged, and running over the bed of gravel, soon cuts a trench in it ; with the result of leaving those terraces on the sides of the valley which we have to account for. We have a very good example of a gravel deposit of the kind described, in the site of our county-town, where the Tweed and Eddleston Water make their way amidst terraces about 545 feet above the present level of the sea; on one large one, the New Town is situated ; on another, stands part of the Old Town. There is even a more striking exhibition of terraces in the parish of Tweedsmuir ; there we see them rising one above another along the base of the hills. It is the last piece of the earth's history, if we except the peat-bogs, which the geologist pretends to have anything to do with ; yet from the time when the sea stood on the site of Peebles, he believes that ages immensely transcending those of the historian have elapsed. Possessing the geological character which scrupulous investigations have assigned to the county, we have an explanation of all the phenomena that meet the eye, and have sometimes perplexed the superficial observer the generally rounded hills, the huge masses of grauwacke or blue whinstone, the casual interlacings of porphyritic rock, the meagreness of the organic remains and metallic deposits, the large beds of gravel, and the very general absence of coal, sandstone, and limestone. In the submergences to which the district has been exposed, we have further explained to us the cause of those deceptious deposits of metallic and coally ddbris in situations entirely foreign to substances of that kind all such materials being nothing more than the washings of sediment from distant quarters, probably the western part of Scotland. A proper knowledge of these facts would have spared some costly and fruitless experiments in digging for coal and lead in the neighbourhood of Peebles l and Traquair. To this general geological and mineralogical character, an exception 1 In the recollection of the present writer, there existed a belief among the common people in Peebles, that the failure of repeated attempts to find coal in the neighbour- hood was not because no coal was to be found, but because the parties interested in the undertakings were bribed by certain Mid-Lothian coal-proprietors. GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY. 521 is to be made as respects the northern section of the county, within the parishes of Linton and Newlands, which, detached from the Vale of Tweed, and stretching along the southern base of the Pentland range, partake, as has been stated, of some of the features of Edinburghshire ; for here alone sandstone and coal-fields are found, and also limestone to an extent permanently available for working. The sandstone, however, varies in character. While the hill above Kaimshouses, near Halmyre, seems to be composed of the Old Red, lying in thin layers ; the white and more friable kinds crop out on the banks of the North Esk, and are worked in quarries at La Mancha, Macbie Hill, and Deepsykehead. Practical masons assure us that the blocks of sandstone used in building the bridge across the Tweed at Peebles, must have been excavated from quarries near Marfield, on the North Esk. On the Lyne, in its higher parts, there occur some conglomerates beneath strata of sandstone ; and in the same quarter, on the estate of Medwyn, lead ore is said to have been pretty extensively worked in the sixteenth century. The excava- tions, now clothed in vegetation, are ordinarily called the Silver Holes, in consequence of a small proportion of silver having been procured in smelting. Lead ore appears to have been worked also, in former times, from a thin vein which crosses the Leithen. A somewhat curious evidence of this fact consists in the remains of smelting-furnaces and slag, found at a depth of four feet beneath the surface, in digging graves in the churchyard of Innerleithen ; the superincumbent mass consisting, of course, of a great shoal of sand and gravel that had been deposited by the river in one of its extraordinary paroxysms. The Flora and Fauna of Peeblesshire are somewhat limited. This, indeed, might be expected from its inland and upland situation, and the general uniformity of its physical characters. In reality, however, besides the absence of plants for which there are few or no suitable localities, there is a general want of those alpine plants which, con- sidering the height of the hills, the botanist might expect to find. A few subalpine plants are of pretty frequent occurrence, as Lycopodium alpinum in the more elevated moors, and the Cloudberry (Rubus chamamorus) on some of the heights where the ground is moist and level. As in other elevated districts, plants common on the sea-coasts occasionally appear, as Scurvy Grass ( CoMearia officinalis), on the banks of the Tweed, in the upper parts of its course (as far down as Drum- melzier). But for the strictly alpine plants which grow on the mountains of the Highlands, the botanist will search in vain. Even those which in the Highlands are very abundant at similar altitudes, and descend into the glens to a level lower than that of many of the cultivated tracts of Peeblesshire, are either wholly absent or very rare, as Oxyria raiifonnis, 522 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Rhodiola rosea, Alchemilla alpina, &c. The last two are among the plants of this kind which do occur within the county. Saxifraga stdlarls and S. oppositifolia are also found. It is perhaps more important to notice some of the more character- istic features of the vegetation, than to enumerate the rare plants which have at some time or other been found in the county. Of trees and shrubs unquestionably indigenous, perhaps the most deserving of notice, in this point of view, are the Scotch Fir, the Ash, the Oak, the Elm, the Aspen, the Rowan or Mountain Ash, the Birch, the Alder, several species of Willow, the Hazel, the Hawthorn, the Elder, the Gean or Wild Cherry these two last named being perhaps less certainly indigenous than the rest, although their introduction must reach back to a very remote antiquity the Bird Cherry or Hagberry, the Sloe, the Juniper, the Whin or Furze, the Dog Rose (Rosa canina), the Burnet-leaved Rose or Scots Rose (Rosa spinosissima), the Honeysuckle, the Ivy ; and of smaller shrubs, the Common Bilberry, Whortleberry, or ' Blaeberry ' (Vacdnium myrtillus), the Red Bilberry (Vaccinium vitis-Idcea}, the Cranberry, and three species of Heath. Natural birch copse is still to be seen in a few places, giving them a peculiar charm ; and in some places, also, fine old Scotch firs are to be seen, notable even at a distance, very unlike the trees of the same species which form the principal part of some of the plantations, and as superior in quality of timber when cut, as in beauty when growing. Ash trees of considerable size and of great age are to be seen not only in the neigh- bourhood of houses, where they may probably have been planted, but in some places where it is probable they have sprung up casually, and to about the same elevation on the hills to which cultivation extends. Alders are abundant on the banks of streams in all parts of the county. Hazel is found chiefly in the lower parts, where, in some places, it forms natural copse almost unmingled with any other tree or bush, except a few scattered hawthorns and sloes. Broom and whin, although plentiful, do not abound so much as in some districts, and their effect in the landscape, when covered with their yellow flowers, is to please without fatiguing the eye. Broom ascends considerably higher on the hills than whin, which, having here approached its northern limit, is also apt to suffer from very severe frosts, but has in some places been sown where it did not naturally grow, on account of its usefulness to sheep during snow-storms and long-continued frosts. A rich profusion of hawthorn blossoms delights the visitor to the valley of the Tweed in the beginning of June. Of trees not indigenous, but which now form notable features in the vegetation of the county, and affect the character of the landscape, the Sycamore (Acer pseudo-platanus}, called Plane Tree by the Scotch, GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY. 523 perhaps deserves to be first mentioned, because its introduction must be referred to a comparatively remote period. Far more conspicuous, however, in the landscape, and much affecting its general aspect, are the different kinds of fir, particularly Larch and Spruce. A few fine Silver Firs exist in the county, planted near gentlemen's seats in the latter part of last century. At Neidpath are some fine old yews, already noticed. Heath is less abundant in Peeblesshire than in many other districts of similar elevation, for although it covers large tracts, yet many even of the high hills are mostly covered with grass, and thus naturally adapted for sheep-pasture. The most prevalent kind of heath is, as else- where in Britain, the Common Ling or Heather (Calluna vulgaris), and those only who have seen can imagine the beauty of the hills when it is in flower, and in those seasons when it blossoms in richest abundance ; for in this respect there is as great a difference between one year and another, as in the blossoming of orchard trees. The white-flowered variety is rare, although occasionally to be found, but different bushes of heather exhibit great diversity in their lighter and darker shades of colour, which adds much to the charm of their beauty when the spectator is near. The Fine-leaved Heath or Bell Heather (Erica cinerea) is everywhere common, plants of it occurring on dry slopes and scattered among the Common Heather. In some moist boggy situations, the Cross-leaved Heath (Erica tetralix) is found in abundance, although over large tracts it is comparatively rare. In the boggy ground through which the railway from Edinburgh to Peebles passes, near Leadburn, its abundance is such as readily to attract the notice of the railway traveller during the season when it is in flower; another conspicuous feature of the same scene being the multitudinous white heads of Cotton- grass (Eriophorum angustifoliutn, and E. vaginati/ni). It is not an uninteresting fact, that the Bramble is nowhere abundant in this county, although in districts not remote it is plentiful. Probably the elevation of Peeblesshire is too great for it Its congener, the Rasp- berry, is common in moist woods. The little herbaceous or almost herbaceous Stone Bramble (Rubus saxatilis) occurs in several places ; and the Cloudberry (Rubus chamcemorus) has already been mentioned. The Blaeberry, although common, is not so abundant as in many parts of Scotland. The Red Bilberry grows only in elevated situations, although it is by no means restricted to such situations in many parts of Britain ; and little fruit is obtained from it in Peeblesshire. The Cranberry is found, as Pennicuik states, in some of the mosses near Linton ; and in the same neighbourhood, the Needle Furze or Petty Whin (Genista Anglica) is plentiful. The dry hill-slopes in most parts of the county, except where the elevation is very considerable, are brightened during summer by the yellow flowers of the little graceful Helianthemum 524 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. (H. vulgare) plentifully sprinkled over them ; and the Grass of Parnassus (Parnassia palustris) raises its erect stem and expands its beautiful white blossom in autumn in almost every moist place beside spring or streamlet among the hills. The Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), abundant almost everywhere, covers in rich profusion some of the steep stony braes. Valerian and Queen of the Meadow are both abundant in low and moist localities. Beside every stream, the Marsh Marigold may be found, but the more beautiful Globe-flower or Lucken-gowan (Trollius Europaus), is not to be seen, although, a little further west, it is pretty common. Nowhere, however, does the Ranunculus aquatilis grow in greater abundance than in the Tweed, spreading its green leaves on the surface of the still waters in little shallow bays apart from the main current of the stream, and almost compensating for the absence of water- lilies by the multitude of its beautiful little white flowers. Galium cruciatum is very plentiful on roadsides and hedge-banks ; but G. verum is less abundant than in the west of Scotland, nor does G. saxatile so frequently cover the rocks that peep forth from dry knolls, where also the bright yellow Sedum acre, so common in Renfrewshire and Ayrshire, fails to appear. But the pretty little Sediim villosum is frequent in moist gravelly places. An enumeration even of the more abundant plants is, however, not to be attempted at present. It is perhaps proper to notice two or three of the rare plants which have been found in the county. Not least interesting among these is the Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus), a plant very rare in Scotland, which has been gathered near Peebles by Mr Lyall. There is no reason to suspect that it was introduced by man. The Spindle-tree (Euonymus Europceus) occurs in the Nutwood near Glenormiston, to all appearance perfectly indigenous. The Bird's-eye Primrose (Primula farinosd) is found near Slipperfield Loch, a little to the south-west of Linton. The Common Primrose is plentiful, and beautifully gems many banks in spring, sometimes with the Wood-sorrel and Wood Anemone ; but the Cowslip is nowhere truly wild in the county, although it extends up Tweeddale, from Northumberland, as far as the parish of Bowden, in Roxburghshire, and is in many places very abundant. That curious little moss, Buxbaumia aphylla, occurs in a locality in Manor parish, and the beautiful little Filmy Fern (Hymenophyllum) on the banks of the Megget. In some parts of the county, ferns are very plentiful, and of many different kinds. This is particularly the case at the Glen, where perhaps as great a number of species may be found growing within a limited space as anywhere in Scotland. The Curled Rock Brake (Cryptogramma crispa) is very abundant on some of the hills of Peeblesshire. But the Hart's-tongue (Scolopcmiriutri) is not abundant in Peeblesshire, as it is GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY. 525 in many parts of the kingdom, and the splendid Flowering Fern ( Osmunda regalis) is nowhere to be found. Botrychium lunaria is rare. It may be interesting to notice that on gravel thrown out in excavating the foundation of a house at Innerleithen, there sprung up, in the ensuing year, several plants of the Milk Thistle (Carduus Marianus), although none were growing in the neighbourhood, nor have any subse- quently appeared, although several years have elapsed. On gravel similarly thrown out in the excavation of a water-course for the factories at Walkerburn, there appeared in the ensuing summer a prodigious multitude of mushrooms (Agaricus campestris), of excellent quality, but of unusually small size, in consequence probably of the poverty of the soil. No such abundance of mushrooms has since been seen on that bank of gravel, which has gradually become covered with grass. Of the animals which have become extinct in Peeblesshire, tradition preserves the memory only of the Red Deer and the Roe. The latter seems to have survived after the extinction of the former. It is probably, however, at least two hundred years since the last really wild deer was killed in the county. Of mammalia, the Fox, both the larger and the smaller variety, the Otter, the Weasel, the Stoat or Ermine, the Hedgehog, the Common Shrew, the Water Shrew, the Mole, the Squirrel, the Brown Rat, the Common Mouse, the Long-tailed Field Mouse (Mus sylvaticus), the Short- tailed Field Mouse or Field Vole (Arvicola agrestis), the Water Vole or Water Rat (Arvicola amphibius), the Common Hare, the Rabbit, the Common Bat (Vespertilio pipistrellus), and the Long-eared Bat (Pie- cot us auritus), are more or less plentiful. The Badger is still found in some places. The Polecat has become much rarer than it seems formerly to have been. The Black Rat, once very abundant, has given place as elsewhere to the Brown Rat, and is now rare, if not wholly extirpated. In a note appended to Pennicuik's Description of Tweeddale, edition of 1815, it is stated that the Squirrel was 'introduced on the North Esk, from England.' The multitudes of squirrels now existing in Peeblesshire may be regarded as rendering this statement somewhat improbable. But in times when there was little wood in the county, it certainly afforded no such suitable residence for them as it does now. The Variable or Alpine Hare is now not unfrequent on the hills, but is known to have been introduced from the north by the late Mr Clason of Hallyards about seventeen or eighteen years ago. The first of the species in Peeblesshire were set free by Mr Clason on one of the highest hills in the parish of Manor. The species seems now to be fully established and naturalised over a very considerable district, extending many miles from the original spot. Birds of prey are much less common than they were in former times. 526 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. The Erne or White-tailed Eagle is mentioned by Pennicuik as building its nest in the hills near St Mary's Loch, and ' in several other solitary and inaccessible places of Tweeddale, as at Fiend's-fell, Talla Linn, &c.' In the old Statistical Account of Scotland, in the article on Lyne and Megget, it is stated that this species of eagle ' builds its nest in a small island in Loch Skene,' and ' sometimes carries off a young lamb in view of the shepherd.' But no species of eagle is now to be seen in Peebles- shire, except as a rare occasional visitant. The Peregrine Falcon is rare, but still exists in the county, breeding in the high rocks at Glendeans Banks, in the parish of Traquair, and at Posso, in the parish of Manor, and perhaps in other similar locali- ties. But these have long been notable on this account, and particu- larly the rocks or craigs of Posso, from which, in the days of falconry, birds of this species were eagerly sought, having, like those of some other localities, a high reputation for their good qualities. The Merlin and the Kestrel are common in Peeblesshire, the former chiefly in the higher parts. The Sparrow-hawk is also common; the Kite has become very rare, perhaps unfortunately, as it is useful in keeping down the numbers of mice, shrews, and other such creatures, which are apt to multiply to the prejudice of the farmer. But it has been ruthlessly persecuted, and almost extirpated in the interest of game preservation. The Common Buzzard and the Rough-legged Buzzard are still to be reckoned among the birds of the county, but both are rare. The Hen Harrier also occurs. The hootings of owls may often be heard at night, and there are at least four species, of more or less frequent occurrence, the Long-eared Owl (Otus vulgaris), the Short-eared Owl (Of us brachy- otos), the White or Barn Owl (Strix flammea), and the Tawny Owl (Syrnium stridula). The Great Gray Shrike or Butcher Bird is found in Peeblesshire, but is rare. The Thrush family is represented by the Mavis or Song Thrush, the Missel Thrush, the Blackbird, the Ring Ousel, the Fieldfare, the Red- wing, and the Dipper or Water Ousel. The Ring Ousel is chiefly found in the higher districts, and is often locally designated the Moor Black- bird. Of the large family of Sylviadce, or Warblers, Peeblesshire has at least, among its more common birds, the Hedge-sparrow, the Redbreast, the Redstart, the Stonechat, the Wheatear, and the Golden-crested Wren. The Blackcap is mentioned in a list given by the annotator of Pennicuik (edit. 1815). The Paridce, or Tit family is represented by the Great Tit or Titmouse, the Blue Tit, the Cole Tit, the Marsh Tit, and the Long- tailed Tit. The Pied Wagtail and the Gray Wagtail are common. The Titlark or Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis), well known in Scotland as the Moss-cheeper, is plentiful in the heath-clad tracts, and the Skylark occurs in the more cultivated parts. Of the Bunting family (JBmforizuto), the most GEOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY. 527 plentiful is the Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinelld) the Yeldrin, Yellow Ye/drin, or Yite of the Scotch, against which here, as very generally elsewhere in Scotland, a strange prejudice exists among the juvenile portion of the population ; so that school-boys, even those who would not harry the nest of another bird, think it almost a duty to rob that of this harmless little creature. The Common Bunting (Emberiza miliaria) and the Reed Bunting, or Black-headed Bunting (E, schcenidus), are also pretty common ; and the Snow Bunting (Emberiza or Plectrophanes nivalis] is abundant in severe winters, which bring also many other birds from the north. Of the numerous family of Fringillidce, the Chaffinch, the House-sparrow, and the Greenfinch or Green Grosbeak (the Green Lintie of the Scotch), are the most abundant ; and after them may be reckoned the Brambling or Mountain Finch as a winter visitant, the Goldfinch, the Siskin or Aberdevine, the Common Linnet (Scottice, Lintie") or Greater Redpole, the Rose Linnet or Lesser Redpole, the Mountain Linnet or Twite, and the Bullfinch. The annotator to Pennicuik states that the Pine Grosbeak is common in the woods on the banks of the North Esk. The bird, however, is so rare in Britain, that a mistake may be suspected. The Starling is common. Of the family of Corvidce, the most abundant by far is the Rook here, as elsewhere in Scotland, generally known by the name Crow. Rookeries exist in several places, although there is no large one in the county. Next to the rook in frequency of occurrence, are the Carrion Crow an inhabitant chiefly of moorish tracts the Jackdaw, and the Magpie ; the Raven and the Jay are rare. The Raven still, however, annually makes its nest in some of the wildest crags. The Hooded Crow is given in a list of the birds of the county by the annotator of Pennicuik, but is certainly rare, and its Scottish name, Hoodie Crow or Hoodie, has been popularly trans- ferred, in this district, to the Carrion Crow, which has no pretence of right to it The Creeper and the Wren are plentiful. The Hoopoe has been seen in the county. The annotator to Pennicuik states that one was shot near Newhall in 1784. The Cuckoo is abundant in spring and summer. The Kingfisher is not unfrequently seen. The Swallow, the Martin, the Sand-martin, and the Swift are regular summer visitants remarkably confined, however, to particular localities. Thus, at Inner- leithen, the swift is almost the only bird of the swallow tribe ever seen about the lower part of the village, and in the early part of summer it is to be seen there in great abundance. The Goatsucker, Night- jar, or Chum Owl is probably not rare, although, from its nocturnal habits, it attracts notice less frequently than many other birds. The Wood-pigeon or Cushat is very plentiful; the farmers think it much too plentiful ; and of late years its numbers have greatly increased, partly from the increase of woods, and partly because of the destruction 528 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. of birds of prey. Of gallinaceous birds, the most plentiful are the Black Grouse (Black Cock and Gray Hen), the Red Grouse or Muirfowl, and the Partridge. The Pheasant, although introduced, and not native, is now also plentiful. The Quail, Ptarmigan, Golden Plover, and Dotterel are occasionally seen. Among the commoner birds, we might enumerate the Curlew or Whaup, the Heron, Sandpiper, Woodcock, Snipe, Landrail or Corncrake, Moor-hen, Coot, Wild Duck, Teal, and Widgeon. The Goosander (Mergus merganser) is seen in winter. Of reptiles the number is not great, nor are any of the species very plentiful, except three Amphibia, the Frog, the Toad, and the Common Newt or Eft. The Common Lizard (Lacerta agilis) is much less plentiful than in many other districts. The Viper or Adder is common ; but whilst it is comparatively plentiful in some places, in others it is never seen, whilst there is no apparent difference in the localities themselves. Thus, it is not unfrequent in some parts of the parish of Traquair, but is almost unknown on the northern side of the Tweed, in the parish of Inner- leithen. The Blindworm or Slowworm (Anguis fragilis) is known in thjs county only in Megget, but, like the Viper, is abundant in that wild district. Of fishes, the Salmon is the most important. The Gray Trout, the Bull Trout, or Roundtail (Salmo eriox), and the Sea Trout or Salmon Trout (S. trutta), ascend the Tweed like the salmon, and, in their young states at least, are probably very often confounded with it. Parr, smolt, and grilse are names properly belonging to the young of the salmon in different stages. The sea-trout is much less common in the Tweed and its tributaries than in many other rivers of Scotland, and than it is said formerly to have been. The Common Trout is found in all the streams and lochs. The Pike is found in St Mary's Loch, and in some other lochs, ponds, &c. ; the Perch is also abundant in some of the lochs ; the Minnow and the Loach in many of the streams. Two species of Eel, the Broad-nosed Eel (Anguilla latirostris) and the Sharp-nosed Eel (A. acutirostris), are found in abundance. The Lamprey (Petromyzon marinus) ascends the Tweed from the sea, like the salmon, for the purpose of spawning ; but instead of being eagerly sought after, as in some parts of England, for the table, it is regarded with the utmost aversion. The Pride, Sandpride, or Mud Lamprey (Ammoccetes bran- chialis), is abundant in the mud of the Tweed, wherever mud occurs, and equally so in some of its tributaries. The invertebrate animals of Peeblesshire have not been much studied. Some attention has been paid to one branch of its entomology, that of the Lepidoptera. The butterfly called the Scotch Argus (Erebia blandina), which was supposed to be confined to Arran and the west of Scotland, is not rare about Glenormiston ; the Peacock Butterfly ( Vanessa / 1 17. 399 . 79 Cabbage Hall, .... 269 Caerlee-hill Fort, ... 36, 380 Caidmuir, . . 83, 1 88, 303, 312 Cairncrosses in Pirn, . . .138 Callands estate, .... 474 House, .... 474 Candles, how they are to be sold, . 171 Cant's Walls, .... 473, 485 Caravan, Wilson's, . . . 277 Cardrona estate, -. . . . 393 House, .... 396 Tower, .... 71 Carlops, 467 Carmichael family, . . . 454 Carmichael, Hon. J., makes a gift to the burgh on being returned mem- ber, 224 Carmichael, Sir W. H. Gibson, . 451 Carriers' carts, transit by, . . 274 Castle Craig estate, . . . 452 House, . . .452 Castle of Peebles visited by royal personages, .... 49 See PEEBLES. Castles, period of building the old, . 48 Caution-money, complaint respecting, 129 Census, Peebles, . . 314 Chalmer, John, slaughter of, . 156 Chambers, an old name in Peebles, 61 Institution, . . 280 of Glenormiston, . 378 , W. & R., Chapel at Chapel Hill, Hill, view of, of the Virgin, 326 296 339 Chapels in Peebles, Chapel Yards, CHARLES I. TILL WILLIAM MARY, 145 Charter by Robert I. to Peebles, . 66 David II. to Peebles, . 67 James II. to Peebles, . 78 James IV. to Peebles, 90, 531 James VI. to Peebles, 142, 534 Charters of Peebles at full length, 531,534 Chaumbre, William de la, . . 65 Cheese Well, . . . .383 Christ Kirk on the Green, . . 77 Christian names only used, . . 60 Church, new, to be built in Peebles, 267 plate, . . . .288 Churchyard of Peebles, its scandalous state, 223 Churchyard, Peebles, . . . 291 Churchyards, gossiping in, on Sun- days denounced, . .167 Cists, ancient, . . . 19 Page Claverhouse, .... 202, 203 Clelands of Stonypath, . . . 464 Clerks of Pennicuik, . . . 483 Clocks and watches in the county, . 275 Clover, 244 Coal, abortive attempt to find, . 264 Cochrane, Lord, .... 505 Cockburn of Henderland, . . 412 Cockburn's, Sir James, gifts to the burgh, 266 Coitquoit, ..... 498 Coldcoat, 498 Commissions in militia, . . . 192 Common good of the burgh, . .217 Commons, account of the, . . 303 , referred to, . . .142 , riding the, . . . 222 Commonwealth, manners during the, 165 Compulsory labour, . . .174 Conventicles in Peeblesshire, . . 201 Convention of Royal Burghs, . . 217 Cordiners, regulations as to, . . 1 72 Corporation of tailors, petition from, 266 County Hall, 287 Covenant signed by provost of Peebles, 160 Cowie's Linn, .... 364 Cowthrople, 474 Cramalt, 412 Crichton of Quarter, makes a tulzie in the kirk, Cringletie estate, ... House, ... Croall's stage-coaches, Cromwell, fines imposed by, . Cromwell's letter to Col. Hacker, protectorate, 107 153 troops bombard Neid- 278 178 163 145 path Castle, . . . .164 Cromwell's troops in Peebles, . 163 Crook Inn, 430 Cross Church founded, . . 51 , present condition, . 294 Cross-keys Inn, .... 285 Cross of Peebles, . . . 261, 276 Cross ordered to be taken down, . 276 Cunzie Neuk, .... 285 Curling Club, Peebles, . . . 298 Daft Jock Grey, . . . .273 Dalgleish, Dr, ordered to desist from pasturing the churchyard, . . 266 Dalgliesh, Margaret, accused of witchcraft, 148 Dalyell, letter to General, . . 202 Dalziel at Linton 233 Dalziel & Co.'s factory, . . . 372 Dam-Dale, 341 Dancing of men and women de- nounced as sinful, . . .167 INDEX. 551 Page Darn Hall, 353 Darnley visits Peebles, . . . IOO David I., . . 46, 48, 49, 50, 51 II., 66 II.'s charter to Peebles, . 67 Da wick estate, . . . .416 House, .... 420 , Laird of, complained of for not attending the parish church, 147 Dead Burn 496, 505 Dead wife's grave, .... 434 Deaneis of Romanno, . . . 141 Deanshouses, . . . . . 511 Dearth in Peebles, 1740, . . 225 Dewar Gill, 381 Dickison, murder of Provost, . 104 Dickson, Lieutenant-colonel, . .271 Dicksons of Hartree, . . . 445 Dirt-pot, 377 Dobson's, J. & A., factory, . 371 Dolphinton, 470 Douglas, Earl of Angus, . 92, 94 , Earl of Morton, . . 477 , General, . ... 203, 204 , Lord William, . .321 Douglas of Cowthrople accused of absenting himself from church, . 148 Douglas, parson of Peebles, 126, 129, 131 Doussan, the, .... 82 Dregy, drinking the, . . . 274 Dreva, 439 , cattle at, injured, . . 143 Drochill Castle, .... 477 , view of, . . . . 107 Drove roads, 462 Drovers to be punished for not attend- 95 423 414 118 ing church, Drum bought for the town, Drummelzier Castle, view of, , modern estate of, DRUMMELZIER PARISH, Dryhope Tower, order to destroy, Duckpool, ..... 448 Dumfries order to meet at, . .122 Dundonald, Earls of, ... 504 Dundreich, 357 EARLY HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES, 18 Early Pier, 343 Easter Happrew, .... 438 EDDLESTON PARISH, . . . 343 Eddleston, village of, ... 365 Edston Haugh, combat on, . . 121 Edward I., . . . 63, 66 Eiston, James, complaint of, . . 135 Elibank, Patrick Murray, created Lord, 157 Elibank peerage, .... 352 Enchanted stone for cattle, . ' 53 Erskincs, anecdote of the, . . 363 Eshiels, 339 Etymologies of names of places, . 5*7 Excise levied in Peebles, . .172 Exhorters and Readers, ... 99 Fairs, Peebles, , Skirling, Families, old, . Fanners, introduction of, . . 301 548 55, 60, 251 235 Farmers tenacious of old customs, . 247 Farquharson of Aboyne, . . 486 Fast-days in old times, ... 166 Fences, 246 Ferguson, Dr Adam, . . . 406 Fergusson of Spitalhaugh, . . 471 Ferrier of Baddinsgill, . . . 464 Feuds of lairds, .... 95 Findlater, Rev. Charles, . . . 478 Fines under Middleton's Act, . 191 Fishings of Peebles, . . .311 Fleming, Lords, .... /j^ Flemings, the, ... 47 Flemington Mill, .... 478 FLORA AND FAUNA OF THE COUNTY, 521 Fly, the, 277 Forbes of Medwyn, . . . 466 Forbes, Sir David, .... 487 Forbes, Sir William, . . . 466 Fordoun, . . . . 51 Forts, list of, . . . . 30, 31 Frank, Treasurer, . . . 169, 170 Frank's Croft is purchased, . .221 Frasers of Neidpath, ... 60 Freemasons, Peebles, . . . 300 French prisoners of war, . . 277 Friendly Society organised, . .189 Fugitives who will not take the test, 201 Gadeni, 18 Gaithope Burn, . . . .381 Garvald estate, .... 469 House, 469 447 Geddesses of Rachan, . . GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTY, . George III., address from burgh to, 267 Giant's Stone, Tweedsmuir, . . 430 Gibson-Carmichael family, . . 452 Gibson in Kailzie, . . . . 139 Gibsons of Durie, .... 455 Giles of Kailzie, .... 392 Gill and Son's factory, . . . 371 Gipsy fight at Romanno, . . 404 Glack, 402 Glasgow arms, .... 45 Glendean's Banks, . . . . 391 Glen estate, 388 House, 390 Gienormiston estate, . . . 377 House, . . .380 Glentress Common, . . . 307 Goold, a king's messenger, deforced, 136 Gordon of Straloch, . . .180 552 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Page 496 ,393 393 216 54 105 244 236 270 S 2 396 325 32= Gordons of Halmyre, Govans of Cardrona, 126, 136, 139 Govans of Peebles and Hawkshaw, Graithing a horse on Sunday, sin of, Grange of Romanno, Grange, Sanct Gille, ... Grasses, artificial, .... Grassums of March estate, Green, encroachments on the, 269, Greviston or Grieston, quarry, .... Grieve, family of David, . Grieve of Noblehall, Guilds, incorporated, Gytes, Halden of that Ilk is security for Tweedy, 126 Haliburton in Whitrig is complained against, 134 Hallyards, 407 Halmyre estate, .... 493 - House, .... 497 Halton-Murray, .... 345 Hamildean, ..... 410 Hamilton Hill, . . . .310 Hamilton of Coitquoit, murder of, . 1 14 slandered by Veitch in Stewarton, . . . . 131 Hamiltons of Coldcoat, . . 498, 499 Hamiltons of Spitalhaugh, . .471 Hangman required for the burgh, . 266 Harden Tower, order to destroy, . 118 Harehope, ..... 364 Harestanes, 456 Hats, councillors to wear, . . 188 Haugh ; meaning of the word, . 59 Hawkshaw, . . . . .431 Hays, family of the, . . . 333 Hay, Alexander, parson of Peebles, 165 , Dr Theodore, . . .211 , Henry, schoolmaster, persecuted, 212 Hay, John, Lord, created Earl of Tweeddale, . . . .157 Hay Lodge, 290 Hay of Scroggs, complained of, . 147 Hay of Smithfield attacks the Hors- brughs, . . ... 133 Hay of Smithfield, complaint against, 126 guilty of assault, 169, 170 Hays of Yester 60 Haystoun estate, .... 332 Henderland-hill Rings, ... 34 Henderson, Helen, of Romanno, . 115 Henderson, Janet, punishment of, . 146 Henry II. expels the Flemings, . 47 Hens, clogging of, . . . . 188 Hepburn, fight of Brown and, . i?.l Heritable jurisdictions, abolition of, 227 Heritors, 255 Page Hiring servants in the churchyard on Sunday, 165 Hislop, Treasurer, .... 270 Hogmanay, 273 Hope ; as name of a place, . . c8 Hopkeiloc, Clement of, . . 60 Horsbroc, Symon of, . . 373, 449 Horsbrughs of Horsbrugh, family history of, . . . . 373 Horsbrugh, Alexander, at variance with Douglas, parson of Peebles, 126 Horsbrugh, Alexander, bound to keep the peace, . . . . .128 Horsbrugh, Andro, to appear before Privy Council, .... 127 Horsbrugh Castle, view of, . .128 - estate, . . . .375 Horsbrugh, Laird of, complains of his eldest son, 134 Horsbrugh and his sons charged with attacking Hay of Smithfield, . 132 Horsbrugh, Nether, . . 374, 370 Horsbrugh of Edderston, . . 121 Horsbrugh, William, accused of mur- der of James Douglas, . .129 Horsbrugh, William, attacks John- ston in Lee, 134 Horsbmghs deforce a sheriff-officer, 143 in Peebles, murders William Chisholme, . . .125 Horsbrugh, Robert, Peebles, com- plains of Scott of Dryhope, . 132 Horse-races at Beltane, . . .186 Horses impressed by magistrates, . 1 74 Hospital of St Leonards, . . 339 Hostilagium of Abbot of Aberbroth- ock, . . . . . -53 Houses not to be let to vagrants, . 22 1 - not to be let to young women, 175 Houston, Archibald, . . . 489 Howford, ..... 396 ' Howlet,' the, of Barns, . . . 1 1 7 Hundleshope, . . . . 405 Hundleshope, sale of, to Sir A. Hay, 341 Hunter of Polmood, servants' wages of, 177 Hunters of Polmood, . . . 425 Hutcheonfield, .... 328 Hyndford family, .... 454 Improvements in Peebles, . . 279 Improvers in the county, . . 232 Ingraston, 470 Innerleithen, church-discipline at, . 165 kirk-session lends its money in order to secure it, . 165 INNERLEITHEN PARISH, . . 360 - village, . . .3 6 7 - well, . . .369 Irish, edict concerning, . . . 270 INDEX. 553 Page Islay, Earl of, .... 508 KIRKURD PARISH, . . . Kittlegairy Fort, . . K uok, burgh in want of a, Labour enforced by magistrates La Mancha estate, . Page 45' 39 79 174 *A 506 '. 97 443 454 35$ 138 i Go 497 470 267 236 238 488 5' 380 192 367 380 101 425 126 458 '83 184 249 459 108 276 448 4'3 450 437 433 360 257 274 411 49 498 502 503 233 477 4/0 355 507 474 442 394 108 JAMES II. TILL JAMES VI., . . 78 -- III 8c IV 90 VI. appoints justice-courts in Peebles, 123 James VI. grants charter to Peebles, 142 Langhup, siege of, . . . g( Langlaw Hill, .... Lauders of Blyth, .... gentry, 122 James VI., inhabitants ordered to attend, 124 James VI., order to meet, at Falk- land, 122 James VI., visit of, to Scotland, . 137 Jamieson, John, fiddler, . . . 272 Janet's Brae forts, . . .38 Lawders of Pirn, complaint of, Law of Temple-land of Kirkurd com- plains of assault, Lawson, Professor, Lawsons of Cairnmuir, . Leader Water, contribution for a bridge for, ..... Learmonth of Newholm, . 191, Leases of Neidpath estates, Leases, usual length of, . Leddy's Goun, .... Leeds, Duke of, .... Joceline, Bishop, . . . 5* Johnstone in Slipperfield accused of turning the riddle, . . . 146 Johnston in Lee complains of Wil- liam Horsbrugh, . . . 134 Johnston, Wilkin, of Halmyre, com- plains of an assault, . . .156 Justice Ayres at Peebles, . . 145 Justice of Peace Records commence, 1 75 Justiciary Courts at Peebles, . . 49 Lee Pen, . . . . . Leighton, Archbishop, . . Leithenhopes estate, Lennox, letter of Earl of, Lincumdoddie, .... Lindsay of Eclzell, .... LINTON AND NEWLANDS, Linton, Lord, his character, . Kennedy, Johnny, pie-baker, . 269 Kennedy of Auchtifardle, . 490 Linton market, .... Livingstone of Belstane, . . Local militia, . . . . Loch of Rachan, ... . . Ker in Edderston indicted for murder of John Chalmer, . . .156 Ker, James, complaint against the Govans, .... 129, 130 Ker, sheriff-officer, deforced by Alex- ander Horsbrugh, . . . 143 Logan Burn, . . . . . . Lord Chief Baron Montgomery, See MONTGOMERY. Lumsden, Isabella, Lychgait, Peebles, . . . . Lychwake, . . ' . . Lyne Church, .... LYNE WITH MEGGET PARISH, Macbie Hill estate, Kerr, William, petition from, con- cerning multures, . . . 268 Kidd of Woodhouse, . . . 402 Kidston, 59 Mill 1(12 Kilbucho ..... 443 M'Dougal the improver, . . Mackays of Scotston, Mackenzies of Dolphinton, . . Mackcnzies of Portmore, Mackintosh of La Mancha, M'Neill of Bordlands, . Macqueen of Braxticld, . . Kingseat, 463 King's Muir, 304 Kippit, 470 Kirkgait, 295 Kirk, outrages in the, . . 153, 155 Kirk -session of Peebles, its vigilance, 216 Manners in Peebles, 1652-58, 554 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Manorhead, MANOR PARISH, Sware, Page . - 398 60 Manufactures established, . . 252 Marches of Stobo, .... 432 Market-cross, a new vane given to, 186 , pillory on, . 169, 170 Market-day, Peebles, . . . 297 Mason-marks on Tweed Bridge, . 80 Maxwell, election of, ... 275 Maxwell of Terregles, . . . 386 Meal Mob, 271 Medwyn, estate of, ... 465 House, .... 467 Meeting-house, a, built, . . . 268 Megget, 411 Meggetland visited by Mary and Darnley, 103 Mendick Hill, . . . .468 Merlin, the Wild, .... 44 , his grave, . . . .415 Militia ordered to the west country, 194 Milkiston Rings, ... 32, 33 Minchmoor, 383 Ministers after the Reformation, . 99 Mirk-Monday, : . . .168 Moffat, town-drummer, . . . 270 Montgomeries, their origin, . . 499 Montgomery, Colonel Robert, . 501 , Sir George of Macbie Hill, 438,501 Montgomery, Sir G. Graham, third baronet of Stanhope, . . . 438 Montgomery, Sir James, of Stanhope, Lord Chief Baron, 228, 265, 437, 509 Montgomery, Sir James, second baronet of Stanhope, . . . 777 Montgomery, Sir William, of Macbie Hill, 500 Montgomery, W., of Macbie Hill, 499 Montrose, Marquis of, apprehensions respecting, 161 Montrose routed at Philiphaugh, . 162 , thanksgivings for victory over, 162 Moorfoot Hills, .... 58 Moref, Archibald de, . . . 64 Morton, execution of Regent, . 106 Morville, the constable, ... 49 Mosses, age of the peat, . . .512 Mossfennan estate, . . 449, 450 House, . . . 450 Mountain Cross, .... 473 Muckle-mouthed Meg, . . . 350 Municipal government, Peebles, . 302 Murderson and Millar, . . 265, 337 Murray, Andro, of Romanno, . 148 , James, Newlands parish, . 236 , Lord, 162 of Broughton, of Callands, Page Murray of Halmyre complains of ex- cessive caution, . . . -153 Murray of Halmyre complains of the Tweedies, . . . . .141 Murray of Henderland, . . .361 of Philiphaugh, . 139, 223, 263 of Stanhope offers to take the test, 198 Murray, Sir Gideon, . . . 350 , Sir John, complaint of, respecting taxation, . . .122 Murrays of Blackbarony, . . 345 of Cringletie, . . . 358 of Halmyre, . . . 495 of Romanno, . . . 480 of Stanhope, . 228, 423, 482 Naesmyths of Dawick, . . .418 Names connected with Peebles, earliest, 50 , old, 55 Napiers, myth regarding the, . . 66 Nateis Willie, . . . .130 Neidpath Castle, eastern aspect, . 157 , southern aspect, . 320 estate, . . . 317,325 , meaning of the name, . 58 Nether-Urd 457 Newbie, ..... 336 Newhall 468 NEWLANDS PARISH, . . 458-473 Newspaper sent by member, . . 275 New Testament, a person indicted for burning, 156 Ninian, St, 44 Nisbit, Agnes, of Romanno, . -US Noble, family of, in Stobo, . . 134 Noblehall, 493 Noblehouse, 503 Oath of secrecy, .... 264 Oats, varieties of, . . . . 243 Old Extent explained, ... 62 , value under the, . . 68 OLD NAMES AND OLD FAMILIES, 55 Oliphant of Lanton, . . . 486 Oliver Castle, .... 430 Oman and Brown, teachers, . . 270 Ormiston, 59 Orse, or Horse, as a prefix in Hors- brugh 59 Oswald of Spital 461 Outlaw Murray, .... 480 Parishes in the county, . . . 254 Parish-schools in the county, . . 255 Park, surgery of Mungo, . . 284 Parliamentary constituency, . . 254 Paul, Hamilton, .... 443 Peacock, tobacconist, petition from, 268 Peeblean Societies, . . . 297 Peebles, antiquity of, . . -.43 INDEX. 555 Page Peebles, bastel-houses in, . . 72 PEEBLES BURGH, .... 256 Burgh Records commence, . 78 Burgh seal, . . . 260 , Castle of, . . 49, 69, 262 , charters of, 66, 67, 78, 90, 142, , 531,534 Commons, account of the, . 303 etymology of the word, . 56 -, people of, desire to have a sermon daily, Peebles, situation and description of, , state of education in 1567, . statistics concerning, . -, town-council of, 155 256 . 130 3H . 302 . 316 75,264 279 PEEBLES PARISH, Peebles to the Play, . Peeblesshire Advertiser begun, Peeblesshire, situation and dimensions of, 9 Peerage, families raised to the, . 156 Pennicuik family, . . . 482, 483 Pennicuik, Dr Alexander, his writings and character, .... 486 Pennicuik, senior, death of Dr, 208, 486 Penny- weddings, edicts respecting, . 189 Piers Cockburn, .... 93 Pilmuir Common, .... 310 Pirn-hill Fort, .... 37 House, 376 Plague of 1645, . . . .161 of 1665, . . . .187 Planting, 246 Plenderleath, Provost, and others, desire to take the test, . . 197 Plewlands, 499 Flora Bum, 383 Police in the county, . . . 253 Polmood estate, .... 425 House, in ruins, . . 426 Pont, Timothy 1 80 Population of the county, . . 253 Portmore, Earl of, . . . . 354 estate, .... 355 House, .... 356 Loch, . . . -357 Posso Craig, 408 Potatoes, varieties of, ... 243 Poultry, 243 Powbeat, 357 Powrie, minister of Dawick, com- plains of the laird, . . . 147 Powrie, minister of Drummelzier, sues Tweedie for slander, . -133 Powsail, 415 Precentors, 98 Presbytery of Peebles complain of burying in churches, . . -131 Presbytery Records begin, . . 146 visit the Kirk at Peebles, 152 Pringle of Milkiston, ... 98 Page Printing introduced, . . . 279 Prizes run for at Beltane, . . 223 Protection and respite to a bailie, . 90 Provost's arbitrary proceedings, . 276 Pump- well ordered for the Old Town, 268 Purvis-hill Terraces, ... 40 Quair River, 383 Quarter estate, . . . . . 445 Quebec Hall 285 Queensberry, Duke of, interferes in elections, 263 Queensberry, fourth Duke of, 262, 323 Lodging, . . .281 Queensberry's (Duke of) coach, . 229 Querns, 21 Rachan House, Ragman Rolls, Railway undertakings, Randal's Walls, . Randolph, Earl of Moray, Rauf del Fount, Rebellion of 1 745, . Red or Trinity friars, Redford Hill estate, Reformation, . Reid, Dr James, protest of, Renton of Lamerton, , village of, . Rents in 1802, in present day, o 278, 279 . 410 . 66 64,80 . 225 52, 54 511, 5 12 97 . 281 309 477 477 235 Restoration of 1660, Revolution, French, wild ideas pro- pagated by, .... 268 Revolution, riots at, ... 205 REVOLUTION UNTIL RECENT TIMES, 207 Riddle, turning the, . . . 146 Riot in Peebles as to rights of common, 199 Ritchie, David, , Misses, Piper, 402 286 265 102 265 254 Rizzio, conspirators concerning, Road made to Edinburgh, Roads in the county, Roberts and Son's factory, Rodonna, . . . .111,411 Rogers, Charles, appointed hangman, 269 Rogers, Dr W., gets Traquair, . 85 Roman camp, . . 2, 26, 410 Roman Catholic disabilities, petitions against removing, Romanno estate, House, . Papers, . Terraces, the three ladies of, Rosetta, Royal Archers, Rullion Green, battle of, 268 479 479 483 42 299 192 556 HISTORY OF PEEBLESSHIRE. Page RURAL AND GENERAL PROGRESS, 230 Russell, minister of Stobo, . . 220 Russells of Kingseat, . . . 463 Rutherford estate, .... 467 Rutherford of Bowland, . . . 499 St Andrew's Church built, . . 51 , view of, in ruins, 291 St Begha, /|/f/| St Mary's Cottage, . . . . 413 St Nicholas, . . . .52, 294 Sanct Leonard's Hospital, . . 83 Sarra of Glen, .... 65 School-fees, 1796, .... 269 Schoolmaster of Peebles, salary of, in 1608, . . . . . .131 Schools in Peebles, .... 297 , regulation as to, . .172 Scot of Hundleshope, quarrel be- tween, and burgh of Peebles, 158, 159 Scotston, 476 Scott of Scottstarvit, . . .180 of Thirlstane complained against by magistrates of Peebles, . . 131 Scott of Whithope commits a reiff, 123 Scott of Whitslaid, . . . .196 Scott, Peter Redford, . . .512 Scott, Walter, letter of, to council, . 266 Scotts and Cairncrosses in Pirn, . 138 , a raid of the, . . .118 of Hundleshope assault Veitch in Fethane, . . . . .124 Seal of Archbishop of Glasgow, . 45 Senators of College of Justice hold a court in Peebles, . . . .155 Servants' wages, . . . .176 Sheeling-hills, .... 235 Sheep in Tweeddale, old age of, . 181 Shepherds, how paid, . . . 249 Sheriff-courts, .... 296 Sheriffs established, ... 49 Shielgreen bought, . . . .188 sold, .... 330 SKIRLING AND KIRKURD PARISHES, 451 Skirling estate, .... 453 Smith, Rob, 406 Smithfield, 329 Smollett visits Scotston, . . . 475 Smolletts of Bonhill, . . . 477 Soonhope, 339 Sour John of the Spiceries, . . 482 Spitalhaugh estate, . . . 470 House, . . . 472 Standing-stones, Sheriffmuir, . . 23 , Tweedsmuir, . 430 State-coach of James VI., . . 137 Steeple, the new, .... 268 , the old, to be taken clown, 267 Stevenson, in Wester Deanshouses, 233 Stevenston, ..... 479 Stewart, Dutho, beheaded, . . 97 Page Stewart, John of, tenants of, . .130 of Shillinglaw, . . no, 139 of Traquair, complaint by, against Scott, . . . -123 Stewart of Tynnes slain by Andro Pringle, 139 Stewart, Sir John, of Traquair, raised to the peerage, . . . .156 Stewarts of Traquair, . . .no Stobo Castle 439 STOBO PARISH, .... 432 slate-quarry, .... 439 , slates of, carried to Craig- millar, 174 Stone axe, ..... 20 hammers, .... 20 mortar, 22 Stonypath, ..... 464 Strange, Isabella, . . . .361 , Sir Robert, . ... 360 Strathclyde Britons, ... 44 , kingdom of, . . 50 Suckers, edict against use of, . . 270 Sunday, amusements on, denounced, 165 -, sin of meeting to dine on, . 166 Swinton Bank, Symington, Robert, 328 236, 271 Tait of Pirn, complaint of against the Presbytery, . . . .127 Taits of Pirn, 375 Tax-roll of 1556, . . . .122 Telfers of Scotston, . . . 475 Tennant of the Glen, . . . 389 Terraces, ancient, .... 39 Test of 1662, 190 to be taken, 1681, . . . 197 Thief's Road, . . ... .412 Thirteen drifty days, . . .189 Thomson, James, complaint of, . 136 , minister of Manor, attack on by Covenanters, . . . 196 Thomson, petitions for succour, . 209 Thorburn, Walter, .... 252 Thrashing-mills in 1802, . . . 235 Three Priests of Peebles, . . 87 Thriepland, . . . . . \\\ Tinnies Castle, . . . .421 , order to destroy, . . 118 Tombstone, Oswald's, . . .461 Ton, as an affix, .... 59 Tontine Hotel originated, . . 275 Tories, name of, first given, . .174 Town's revenue, . . . -314 Town-wall, .... 92, 285 Traquair, Earl of, and others, meet at Peebles to repress disorder, . 1 73 Traquair, Earl of, his last days, . 183 , asks subscription for a bridge, .... 265 Traquair family, .... 3^5 INDEX. 557 Page Traquair House and gateway, . 387 House, view of, . .182 , Mary and Darnley at, . 103 Traquair, persecution of Countess of, 189, 190 Traquair, Sir J. Stewart, created Earl of, 156 TRAQUAIR PARISH, . . 382 Trumble of Bedrule, . . 136 Tuedy of Winkston, complaint of, 143 Turnbulls, bakers, house of the, 284 Turning the riddle, . . 146 Turnip crops, . . . 244 Tweed, alleged etymology of, 57 , its rise, ... 10 , length, ... 12 Tweeddale, creation of earldom of, 157 , Earl of, sells Neidpath, 321 Tweedie, John, killed by the Veitches, 113 Tweedie, Margaret, of Romanno, . 115 Tweedie of Scottistoun, . . . 141 Tweedie uplifts rents forcibly, . 124 Tweedies and Veitches, renewal of feud between, . . . 133 Tweedies come into notice, . . 95 , finale of the, . . 154,442 , murders by, 113, 114, 119, 120, 444 robbed by the Scotts, . 1 19 try to force a gift from Murray of Ilalmyre, . . . 141 Tweedies of Quarter, . . . 446 Tweedside, song of, . . . 15, 1 6 TWEEDSMUIR PARISH, . . . 429 Tweedy, James, summoned to advise with Privy Council, . . .126 Tweedy, James, dismissed from the Tolbooth of Edinburgh, . .154 Umphraville, 73 Union, Peebles at the, . . .218 Usher's Wynd, .... 286 Usurpation, panic regarding the, . 164 Valuation, Peebles, Roll, 1657, -, 1863, 3H 179 250 Veitch in Fethane, complaint of, . 124 in Stewarton confesses for slander, . . . . -131 Veitch, murder of Patrick, . .112 Veitch of Lyne complains of the Laird of Skirling, . . .137 Veitch, Sergeant, . Veitch, William, preacher, Veitches, of Dawick, Page . 276 192, 209, 210 6? 60, 416 304, 309 329 Venlaw Common, Venlaw estate and house, Vermels, the, 480 Vicar of Peebles, .... 296 Virgin Inns, 288 Volunteers in 1804, 2 75 Wages for casting divots, . .171 for shearers settled, . .172 in 1793, . . . .247 in present day, . . . 248 Walker Burn, . . . 371, 372 Walthamshope, common of, . . 50 Watson admitted vicar of Peebles, 155 complains of assault, . . 101 Watson paid for burning witches, . 166 Weapon Show of 1627, . . . 148 Weddings, edict respecting, . .189 Weights, privilege of seizing light, . 217 Welshes of Mossfennan, . . 449 Westraw Moss, .... 443 Whim estate, 508 House, .... 509 White of Drummelzier, . . . 423 Whitefield, 503 Whitfield, tenants of, compensated, 215 Whiteside-hill Fort, . . 35, 478 Williamson, Provost, signs the cove- nant, Williamsons of Cardrona, , town-house of the, Wilson and Son's factory, Winkston, .... Witchcraft, . . . 155, -, lingering belief in, 1 60 393 219 372 327 160, 166 . 274 Witches, Presbytery engaged with, 1 54 Woddrop of Garvald, . . . 469 Woodhouse, estate, .... 402 Wood-sword, ill Woollen manufactures, projects to establish in Peebles, . . . 224 Wrae Castle, 448 Wyuton's Chronicle, ... 67 Yarn, regulation as to selling, . 172 Yester family, . . . .319 , William, Master of, . .1 IO Yousting, Patrick, murder of, . 131 FINIS. Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh. niversity of California LIBRARY FACILITY 405 HiJgard Ay*ue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. sBL MAY 1 GOE2 ILWMce 1995 i RcCEiVEO NON RESIEWUBLE NOV 3 8 2001 I BIIE 2 WK8 FROM DATE UCLA ACCESS [SERVICES BL19 Interllbrary Loans 1 1 630 University Research Library 3ox 951575 Los Angeles, CA 9^095-1575 f . t **yg% jpajmt "" " 'NI mil UNI it if mil in || mi i 000 998 039 2 M 880 P5C3