RICHARDSON'S CHRISTCHURCH. In Opening the New Hotel, I have much pleasure in drawing the attention of COMMERCIALS AND TOURISTS to its many advantages. Built of Brick and Stone, with all modern improvements, and BRICK SAMPLE ROOMS attached, it affords comfort and security not to be found in the antiquated structures that exist in many places. Centrally situated, commanding easy access to Post and Telegraph Offices, Banks, and Cab Stand, having entrances from three leading thoroughfares, viz., HIGH, CASHEL, & HEREFORD STREETS, makes it the Commercial Rendezvous of Christchurch. The Cuisine is under the able charge of Mons. DUMALE (late chef to His Excellency Sir William Jervois). The general arrangements being in keeping, I confidently solicit your patronage. Comments from the Christchurch Licensing Bench : "As a Commercial House, the hotel and general management would be a credit to any city in the colonies." The reputation of my Cellar is too well known to eed comment. P. RICHARDSON, Proprietor. UCSB X- . ^c j ^ fb Jfattonat fp lia l f$ jpopiion of Mrate, , j T J j J J 9 j^^^^^ LIDVCITBID. EVIDENCE OF PROGEESS : New Business 1882. No. of Policies - 4,554 Amount Assured 1,1O9,5&8 Annual Income - l2O,7 A rCii rjr J^y J J> flhe fffltfoh & jto jMand Jlortgage & tantg to., J \r J J J J ! LIMITED. (LATH CARGILLS, GIBBS, & CO.) HEAD OFFICE-r, GREAT WINCHESTER-SI., LONDON, E.C. CAHTAL-600,000, in 60,000 Shares of 10 eacL ISSUED AND SUBSCRIBED, 403,320. DIRECTORS: JAMES W. BARCLAY, ESQ., M.P., London, Chairman. N. W. LEVIN, ESQ., of Messrs. Redfern, Alexander and Co., London. H. J. GIBBS, ESQ., 1 Great Winchester Street, London, B.C., Managing Director. JAMES W. TEMPLE, ESQ , of Messrs. Shaw, Savill and Co., London. W. A. HUNTER, ESQ., Fountain Court, Temple, London. JOHN LESLIE, ESQ., Shipowner, 79, Mark Lane, London. CHIEF OEPICE IN NEW ZEALAND-Princes Street, Dunedin- Board of Directors in New Zealand; E. B. CARGILL, ESQ., Clany's Steamers leav dth the Orient Lin . 4666 Tons. . 3825 . 5386 . 4028 ., . 4014 e the different e Steamers at PASSAGES FROM 21 to 75. Entire Cabins reserved on most liberal terms. EXCURSION RETURN TICKETS TO LONDON. First Class, 117 ; Second Class, 77. Available for 12 months. The arrangements are unsurpassed, the Steamers being fitted with Kefrigerators, I'unkahs, Heating Apparatus, &c. Agents in all Ports of New Zealand : <$k Union ^team jship 0. of Up General Manager in Australia, G. SKELTON YUILL, Sydney. IX. Hew Zealand Insurance Company 1QS9. Subscribed Capita/ Paid-up Capita/ and Reserves 1,000,000 415,000 UNLIMITED LIABILITY OF SHAREHOLDERS. P?EAD OFFICE: , HEW ZEALAND. BRANCHES AND AGENCIES : Auckland (Head Office) Dunedin ChrUtchurch Wellington Invercargill Nelson Napier New Plymouth Greyinouth Wanganui London Calcutta Madras Bombay Colombo Melbourne New South Wa s South Australi Queensland Hobart California New Caledonia Fiji .. Western Australia Portland, Oregon Tacoma, Washington Territory Cape Town Hongkong and Shanghai James Buttle, Esq., Manager ; M. J. Smith, Esq., Sub-Manager. James Edgar, Esq. David Craig,. Esq. R. M. Simpson, Esq. James Cattell, Esq. James Wilson, Esq. T. J. Brassey, Esq. Henry Weston, Esq. G. W. Moss, Esq. Thos. Culpan, Esq. Messrs. Bowley and Bristow, 68 and 69 Cornhill. Percy L. Garbet, Esq. Messrs, Croysdale and Co. Messrs. Lang, Moir, and Co. Messrs. Leechman and Co. B. Cleveland, Esq., Collins-street West. S. Hague Smith, Esq., Pitt-street, Sydney. F. W. Gardiner, Esq , Adelaide. E. W. Walker, Esq., Brisbane. Messrs. M'Gregor, Piesse, and Co. Hugh Craig, Esq., San Francisco. J. Gillies, Esq., Noumea. Messrs. George Morgan and Co., Levuka. Win. Samson, Esq., Freemantle. W. F. Brown, Esq. S. Wilkeson, Esq., Jun. S. A. Loan M. and M. Agency. Union Insurance Society of Canton, Limited. GEORGE P, PIERCE, General Manager. (LIMITED). (Incorporated under the Joint Stock Companies Act, 1860, and Amendment Acts, and also by Special Act of the New Zealand Parliament). CAPITAL, 50,000, in 10,000 Shares of 5 each. 10,000 paid np. Subscribed, 50,000. Total Liability, 100,000- DIRECTORS : GEORGE JOACHIM, ESQ., Chairman. JOHN ROBERTS, ESQ., Vice-Chairman. E. B. CAROILL, ESQ. | J. M. RITCHIE, ESQ. | JAMES MILLS, ESQ. P. C. NEILL, ESQ. | E. J. SPENCE, ESQ. BANKERS : THE BANK OF NEW ZEALAND. MANAGER : W. LAURENCE SIMPSON, ESQ. OFFICE : EXCHANGE BUILDINGS, LIVERPOOL STREET, DUNEDIN. The Company will, at fixed Rates of Commission, act as Executor, Trustee under Will or Deed of Settlement, Liquidator under Bankruptcy Acts, Guardian or Receiver, and as General Agent. The Company will also act as Attorney or Agent for those who, by reason of absence, ill-health, or other cause, may deem it desirable to entrust others with the management of their property or affairs. Acting in this capacity, the Company will sell or let land and houses, collect rents, invest moneys, negotiate loans, effect insurances, and act generally for its Constituents as fully and effectually as an Attorney acting under the most com- prehensive power could do. The advantages of this Institution will become manifest when the difficulty, risk, and uncertainty attendant upon the management of trust properties by private individuals are considered.. It is sometimes impossible to procure competent, willing, and trustworthy persons to act as Executors or Trustees ; those who are qualified have a natural reluctance to undertake a duty generally arduous and responsible, and which often becomes a thankless and ungracious task. There is also this further difficulty, that Trustees and Executors sometimes die about the same time as the Testators or other persons creating the trusts, and most frequently before the trusts are fully executed, and in such cases the trusts have to be administered by others who have not been selected by the person creating the trust, or through the costly machinery of the Supreme Court. The advantage which a Board having perpetual succession secures over an individual, subject to the ordinary vicissitudes and uncertainties of life, in acting as Executor or other Fiduciary is very obvious ; while the combined judgment and enlarged experience which the Directors would bring to bear in dealing with the custody and investment of their Constituents' money and management of their property would be of incalculable value to the Constituents themselves ; and it is always to be borne in mind that there is a specific guarantee" in the Company's capital. XI. TIKE A Series of Photographs illustrating the Scenery and the Mode of Life in THE FIJIS, THE NAVIQATOR ISLANDS (Samoa). AND THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS (Tonga). Taken during the two trips of the Union S.S. Co.'s "Wairarapa" to the South Seas in June and July, 1884. NEW ZEALAND Nearly Two Thousand Photographs of New Zealand Scenery Thoroughly illustrating the natural beauties and wonders as well as the material progress of the Colony. 3TCatalogues of both Series sent post free to any address. BURTON BROTHERS, PORTRAIT, LANDSCAPE, & COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHERS XII. LAKE WAKATIPD STEAM SERVICE, 55 THE POWERFUL ROYAL MAIL STEAMER " MOTJISTT^HSTEER RUNS BETWEEN KINGSTON AND QUEENSTOWN To connect with all trains. During the summer months the Steamer will run regularly three times a week to and from Glenorchy and Kinloch (Head of Lake Wakatipu), calling at Greenstone River and other places to land Passengers. In the winter months the Steamer will run to suit the con- venience of Passengers, as per advertised time-table. KINCAID, M'QUEEN, & CO., VULCAN FOUNDRY, GREAT KING STREET, DUNEDIN. ENGINEERS, BOILERMAKERS IRON AND BRASS FOUNDERS, MILLWRIGHTS, IRON SHIP-BUILBERS, &c. High-pressure and Compound Steam Engines, Turbine and other Water Wheels, Quartz-crushing and every description of Pumping. Winding, Mining, Stone-breaking, Wool-washing and Drying Machinery ; also. Wire-rope Suspension Tramways for carrying Quartz and other Minerals. Manufacturers and Importers of all kinds of Special Machinery. Xlll. R, S, SPARROW & Co., IRON SHIPBUILDERS, Engineers, Boiler -makers, Iron and Brass Founders, DUNEDIN IRONWORKS, DUNEDIN. MANUFACTURERS OF Quartz-crushing. Pumping, and Winding Machinery, Turbine and other Water Wheels, Dredging Machinery, Bock Drills, Air Compressors, and Iron Fluming for Hydraulic Mining purposes. Flourmill Machinery, Builders' Plant, High-pressure and Compound Steam-engines and Boilers MADE and REPAIRED. Plans and specifications prepared, and Experienced Workmen sent to all parts of the Colony. THE LIMITIEID, CUMBERLAND STREET DUNEDIN, Near the Railway Station. xiv REID & GRAY, AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENT MAKERS, Head Office: i Invercargill Duiiecliii Oaiuaru P.O. Box 2O6 Tiinaru Asliburton Christclmrcli A uekla till Otautau Gore Hiversclale WINNERS OP GOLD MEDAL AT MELBOURNE EXHIBITION. Extract from Jurors' Report. "PLOUGHS In ploughs there is one exhibit to which we wish to draw special attention as being the best, and that is the Double Furrow of Reid & Gray, of Dunedin, New Zea- land. In finish and construc- tion it is far superior to any other." gap Illustrated Catalogues free on application. Disc Harrows, the New Zealand Twine Binder, Corndrills, Broadcast Sowers, &c., &c. Agents for Clayton and Shuttleworth's Engines and Threshing Mills. oollen muted. The Premier Woollen Industry of New Zealand. IMtosgiel Tweeds OTosgiel Mauds &. Plaids. Mosgiel Flannels &. Serges. Mosgiel Pants and Shirts. Mosgiel Rug's and Shawls. Mosgiel Blankets &. Plaidings IVXosgiel Socks & Hose. Mosgiel Knitting Tarns. Awarded Highest Place at the Australian Exhibition*. The Mosgiel Woollens have received unqualified praise in the Report on Australian woollens furnished to the Elboeuf Chamber of Commerce by M. Henri Courmeaux, who was specially sent to the Melbourne Exhibition from the Woollen manufacturing district in France for the purpose. He declares that " every article manufactured by that Company is superior to any ether Australian woollen goods I saw at the Exhibition," and he thinks that "the Mosgiel Factory will take first rank in the Australian market over all European importations." Testimony like this, from a critic so competent and disinterested, must be very gratifying to the Company. Melbourne Argus. The Public are requested, when purchasing, to see that they get the genuine " Mosgiel " article, which is guaranteed to give satisfaction. The Trade supplied by all Wholesale Warehousemen. FACTORY AT MoseiEL. WAREHOUSE HIGH STREET, DI.NEDI.X. JOHN H. MORRISON, Manager. XV. The Perpetual Trustees, Estate, and Agency Company of Hew Zealand, Limited, With which are incorporated the Firms of GILLIES, STREET, AND HISLOP, AND CONNELL AND HOODIE. Capital, J 25,000 ; in 25,000 Shares of 5 each. First Directors : ROBERT GILLIES, ESQ., Chairman. JAMES BROWN, ESQ. | THOMAS MOODIE, ESQ. | WALTER HISLOP, ESQ. Managing Director : J. AITKEN CONNELL, ESQ. Secretary : WALTER HISLOP, ESQ. Bankers : THE NATIONAL BANK OF NEW ZEALAND. Offices: Corner of VoGBb and RATTRAY STREETS, immediately opposite Railway Station. The Company acts, by itself or its officers, as Agents for the management of Landed and other Estates. As Attorneys for persons resident in or beyond the Colony. As Trustees or Executors in the estates of deceased persons. As Valuators, Auctioneers (land only), and Sharebrokers. As Agents for the selection and purchase of Crown Lands. And in the transaction of all Laud Office business Moneys invested on mortgage securities. Rents, interest, and dividends collected. Properties of every kind sold. All Land Office and Waste Land Board business attended to personally by Mr. J. A. Connell. MONEY to LEKD on good freehold securities, in any sums, at lowest current rate of interest. TUB: IE NEW ZEALAND EXPRESS COMPANY. Customs & Express Forwarding Agents. Parcels, Packages, &c., Delivered to any Address in the World at Through and Fixed Rates. Baggage Cleared at the Customs and Stored, or forwarded and delivered to any destination. Agents at all the Principal Railway Stations and Ports in New Zealand ; also at Melbourne, Sydney, London, Paris, New York, &c. Head Office 7 Manse Street, Dunedin. XVI. NIMMO & BLAIR, SEED MERCHANTS, PRODUCE BROKERS and COMMISSION AGENTS, STREET, DUNEDIH, Keep Regular Supplies of all the Of the best strains and in Greatest Variety, which they make a point of disposing of at the Lowest Prices compatible with quality. They would remind Purchasers that Low-priced Seeds are seldom cheap- J. wrLKIE & Co., 4O Princes Street, Dunedln, PHOTOS OF NEW ZEALAND SCENERY. Mr. WILKIE, having personal knowledge of most of the Otago streams, will be glad to put visitors in the way of a day's Trout fishing. (Open Season October to March inclusive.) WISE, COFFIN, & Co., Publishers, Booksellers, and Stationers, SUPPLY Maps, Guide Books, Directories, and Official Publications issued by the Government. Facsimiles of Gully's Water-colour Drawings of New Zealand Scenery, 5 5s. Bird's-eye Map of New Zealand, 25s. New Zealand Post Office Directory, 42s. Plans of New Zealand Cities, 2s. 6d. each. PRINCES STREET, D UP* ED IN. XV11. HIGHEST AWARDS AT ALL COLONIAL EXHIBITIONS. Established upwards of a Quarter of a Century. 76 & 84, PRINCESTSTREET, DUNEDIN. ~~$8gfrcf>3&&" FERGUSSON & MITCHELL, I Manufacturers of Blank Books of every description. Lithographic and Letterpress Printers, Publishers, &c. Engravers, Designers, Embossers. &c. Rubber and Brass Stamps, in any style, made on the premises. Manufacturers of Brown and Grey Wrapping Papers, Paper Bags, &c. to. t, WOODHAUaH, H, VALLEY. Contractors to N.Z. Government Railways for Manufactured Stationery, fyc. A, R LIVINGSTON, Oil Colours. Water Colours moist and cake. Colour Boxes. Canvas in Rolls. Canvas on Stretched Frames. Varnishes and Oils. Drawing Blocks. A.cademy Boards. Palettes. Hog and Sable Brushes. And every Requisite for Artists. A. R. LIVINGSTON, DUNEDIN. xvm. MORGAN & CABLE, MARINE ENGINEERS, BOILERMAKERS, SHIP & GENERAL BLACKSMITHS, Estimates given for all classes of work. Steamship repairs executed with the utmost despatch. KRT TYNE STREET, OAMARU awl $uin Agencies : New Zealand Refrigerating Company (Limited) ; New Zealand and Australian Land Company (Limited) ; New Zealand Accident Insurance Company ; Victoria Fire and Marine Insurance Company ; Colonial Mutual Insurance Company ; Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company ; D. M. Osborne & Co.'s Reapers and Binders ; Hatch's Sheep Dip ; Dominion Barb Wire Company. WILLIAM CHRISTIE, land, JUoclt & Station *jf *T "T TYNE STREET, OAMARU, VGENT for Otago and Southland Investment Company (Limited) ; Colonial Investment and Agency Company of New Zealand (Limited) ; Standard Insurance Company, &c. xix. DESCBTLER'S l and ^amllg ff;0td IP ESK STREET, INVERCARGILL. This Magnificent Hotel, constructed entirely of brick and stone, is now open for the reception of Families, Tourists, and Commercial Men ; offering accommodation unequalled in the Colonies for Elegance, Comfort, and Attendance. The building contains upwards of thirty spacious and well- lighted bedrooms, and suites of handsomely furnished apartments specially designed for family convenience combining the comforts of home life with the privacy and freedom of the larger American and German hostelries. THE WINE AND SPIRIT VAULTS Are under the special superintendence of Mr. Deschler, whose European reputation is sufficient guarantee for the quality of their contents. THE TABLE D'HOTE, To which special attention is paid, is under the charge of an ex- perienced Chef de Cuisine and supplied entirely from Mr. Deschler's Farm and Gardens at Appleby. PQGAI* ^KD TKTERCQI*ONI^I^ / / . j|iano6, Ipu6ic, and i|ju6ica;l jn6trument6. HOT, COLD, SHOWER, PLUNGE, AND SPRAY BATHS. A night watchman is in attendance, and information may be obtained at any time with reference to the arrival or departure of trains, coaches, or shipping, lake or steamer excursions, or any subject interesting to strangers or tourists. The Hotel is most centrally situated, adjoining the banks, Athenaeum, warehouses, and business centres, and is within one minute's walk of the tram and railway termini. The terms are most reasonable, and special arrangements will be made with Families or Parties of Tourists visiting Invercargill. XX. PRINCE OF WALES HOTEL DEE-ST., INVERCARGILL. WALTER SEARLE, PROPRIETOR. FIRST-CLASS ACCOMMODATION FOR THE TRAVELLING PUBLIC ESTABLISHED 1862. SOUTHLAND CLUB HOTEL DEE STREET, NEW Z~EA.lMA.NIt. This magnificent new brick Hotel is now open, and is replete with every modern convenience. Situated in the centre of the Town, and in easy distance of Railway Station and Post Office. PRIVATE SUITES FOR FAMILIES. FIRST-CLASS BILLIARD ROOM. FIRE ESCAPES, BATHS, &c. CRESCENT, INVERCARGILL. D. POWELL^ Proprietor. This magnificent building 1 , just completed, is one ol the most elegant edifices in the Colony. Originally intended as the Coffee Palace, it is in every respect admirably adapted for the purpose to which it is now converted, viz. : A FIRST- CLASS HOTEL. The numerous and various apartments are spacious, well-lighted, and ventilated. The furnishings are both elaborate and tasteful ; and every accommodation and convenience provided that is calculated to afford the most complete comfort and facilities to Travellers and visitors. Special attention will be devoted to the providing of a FIRST-CLASS TABLE D'HOTE at an hour suitable to business men and others residing out of town. The Liquors dispensed by the establishment will all be of the very best quality, and no exertion will be spared by the Proprietor to render it second to none in the Colony. MR. POWELL trusts that his well-known character as a public caterer in connection with the management of Powell's Family Hotel, Lake Wakatipu, will be recommendatory to his assuming the charge of the above Hotel, and he can assure all patrons that his best efforts will be extended to give the utmost satisfaction. Bath Rooms ; Billiard Rooms ; Private Parlors, etc. ; and every requisite appointment. ,T:.- Within a minute's walk from Railway Station. D. POWELL, Proprietor. PATRONISED BY THEIR EXCELLENCIES Sir George Grey, Sir George Bowen, Sir James Fergnson, Sir Hercules G- Eobinson, Sir Arthur Gordon late Governors of New Zealand. SIB WILLIAM PEANCIS DEUMMOND JEEVOIS, Governor of New Zealand. EICHARDT'S HOTEL QUEEN STOW IV, LAKE WAKATIPU, OTA.GO, This Hotel is situated on the margin of Queenstown Bay, and commands Views of GKAND AND MAGNIFICENT LAKE SCENEKY- PRIVATE APARTMENTS FOR TOURISTS & FAMILIES. 4- Porter meets every Steamer on arrival at the Wharf. THE GRAND HOTEL, DUNEDIN. Admitted by all Tourists to be the best Hotel in Australasia. XX111. THE PROVINCIAL HOTEL OT-A.G-O. 1862. Offers to Tourists and Commercial Travellers the Accommodation of a HOME HOTEL. AK9 CJlSB, PROPRIETORS. PORT CHALMERS HOTEL This Hotel, from its vicinity to the Railway Station and Wharues, offers every accommodation to Tourists and Trauellers. . J". XXIV. CRITERION HOTEL teas ST.* &wta9ijr, , NEW ZEALAND. This Hotel has ever held the premier position in the City of Dunedin since its establishment in 1862. Its central position, combined with the facility afforded to Tourists of visiting the environs by Tram Car, together with the advantages of an experienced management, well- ordered staff, vicinity to Theatres, and all the usages of English comfort not usually to be found in the Colonies, have made the " >. riterion " the most popular Hotel in the City. W. H. HAYDON, Proprietor. IHIOTIEL (Near Octagon), GEORGE STREET, DUNEDIN. JOHN CARROLL, STAR AND GARTER HOTEL OA1VIARXJ. Visitors to Oamaru will find every comfort and accommodation at this well-known and old established Hotel. Suites of Apartments for Families. Sample Rooms for Com mercial Travellers. Double Billiard Room. J. M. BROWN Proprietor. Under the Patronage of H.R.H. The Duke of Edinburgh and the Marquis of Normanby. CLARENDON HOTEL OXFORD TERRACE, AND WHITE PARSONS, PROPRIETOR. QUEEN'S HOTEL CORNER OF CASHEL & MANCHESTER-STS., CHFtlSTCHTJFtCH. J - McNAMARA has much pleasure in informing his numerous patrons that he has taken over the above Hotel, and ventures to hope that he will receive a continuance of past favours. The Hotel is centrally situated, being within five minutes' walk of the Railway Station and one minute's walk of the Tramway. Families, Travellers, ond Boarders will find the comforts of a Home at the above Hotel. NONE BUT THE BEST BRANDS OF LIQUORS KEPT. XXVI. A.SK KIRKPATRICK'S JAM, ** The most delicious Jam in the World. KIRKPATRICK'S TOMATO SAUCE. ** The best Sauce in the Australasian Colonies. KIRKPATRICK'S JAM. ** First Prize Medal N.Z. International Exhibition, 1882. KIRKPATRICK'S TOMATO CHUTNEE, *^ Cures Dyspepsia and Indigestion. KIRKPATRICK'S JAM, ^^ Srwaniol T^ri<7P "V^Tcrm T^T-VnViiHnn Special Prize Nelson Exhibition, 1881, KIRKPATRICK'S TOMATO SAUCE. ^* Improves the Appetite. KIRKPATRICK'S TOMATO CHUTNEE. ^^ The most delicious Flavouring for Soups. NOTICE. All Preserves manufactured by us are rrade from the choicest New Zealand grown fruit and the best Mauritius crystallized sugar. under the personal superintendence of our Mr. Kirkpatrick, who has a thorough practical knowledge of the business, gained with two of the best firms in San Francisco. 8. KIRKPATRICK & CO,, XXV11. THE SOUTH BRITISH Jfire and ISarm^ Jitsitran^ (Kompang OP NEW ZEALAND. CAPITAL: 2,000,000 INVESTED FUNDS: 235,000. UNLIMITED LIABILITY OF SHAREHOLDERS. HEAD OFFICE^ ^AUCKLAND. DIRECTORS : W. C. DALDY. ESQ., Chairman. R. C, BARSTOW. ESQ. ALFRED KUL'KLAND, ESQ. Hon. H. CHAMBERLAIN. J. HOWARD, ESQ. R. HOBBS, ESQ., M.H.R. T. MORRIN, ESQ. Fire and Marine Insurances effected at Lowest Rates. CHIEF BRANCHES % AGENCIES: AUCKLAND . . R. M. Clark. LIMA T. Dawson. ADELAIDE .. J. Kirker. MELBOURNE . C. R. Parsons. BATAVIA Housfhton & Co. MANCHESTER (Fire). A. G. Stephen. BOSTON H. W. Peabodv. MADRAS Schonlank, Engel BRISBANE . . W. M. Lloyd. " and Co. BOMBAY Lidbetter & Stead. MAURITIUS .. Scott and Co. CHRISTCHURCB J. D. Macpherson NELSON Sclanders & Co. CALCTTTA .. A S, Murray. NAPIER J. Sidey. CAPE TOWN . . F A. Learmonth NOUMEA Knoblauch & Co. D'JNEDIN A. Maxwel! NKW YORK J. C. Phillips & Co. FOOCHOW . . Bathgute & Co. OAMARU C. H. Croxton. GliEYMOl'TII. . Nancarrow & Co. PERTH, W.A. E, K. Courthope. HOKITIKA . . Wade & Spence. PORTLAND, OREGON. Laidlaw & Co. HOBART Tbeo. Cane PT. ELIZABETH J. Hall. HONG KONG Kussull & Co. RANGOON Findlay, Fleming IIlOOO, JAI'AN H. E. Reynull. and Co. INVERCARGILL W. J. Smith. SYDNEY M. Metcalfe & Co. KURRACIIEK Donald (rraham & Co. SAN FRANCISCO W. J. Callingham LAUHCBSTON W. S. Bell. and Co. LONDON (Marine) T. Parsons, Jerusa- SINGAPORE W. M'Kerrow & Co. lem Ch., Cornhill. SHANGHAI Primrose & Co. LONDON (Fire) D.Christie,] 2 & 13, TARANAKI R. G. Bauchope. Nicholas Lane. WANGANUI .. M. Jones. LIVERPOOL .. H. H. Howie. WELLINGTON A. Boardman. LEVUKA J. C. Smith & Co. YOKOHAMA .. Middleton & Co. NUMEROUS SUB-AGENCIES THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. G. JOHNSTON. General Manager. XXV111. TERMINUS HOTEL OPPOSITE RAILWAY STATICm, CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND. Best Accommodation for Travellers at the lowest current rates. HOT A. COLD WATER BATHS. , with one of Z $& NIGHT PORTER IN ATTENDANCE. BTTT THE BEST LIQTJOES K3PT G. S. M^RSHA_LL, PFtOPFtlETOFt. COLOMBO STREET NORTH (Close to the Bridge), CHRISTCHURCH. This old established and lately re-erected Family and Commercial Hotel is strongly recommended to all requiring a quiet home in a well-appointed establishment. A most excellent Table is kept. Wines, Spirits, Ales, Beer, and Cigars of the finest Brands. > /^ 'Lu-LLLtu., tire. LeAt of atan.ian., and mast JOHN BATLEY, Proprietor. ROGERS' TEMPERANCE HOTEL (Immediately opposite Railway Station), o :a: R, i s T o :& TJ IR, o IH: . First -class Accommodation for Travellers and Families. SCALE OF CHARGES : 1 and 18s. per week. All Beds and Meals Is. each. Superior Dining and Sitting Booms and Bath Boon 1 . Stabling free. ROGERS' TEMPERANCE HOTEL C^^sS"), CHRISTCHURCH. OYAX, HoTEt, NORWICH QUAY, LYTTELTON. Respectfully informs Tourists and other Travellers that he has taken the ROYAL HOTEL, Lyttelton, where first-class accommodation can always be obtained. Liquors of the best Brands kept only. E. ROSE. T. V. WHTTMORE. ROSE & WHITMORE, -4taqe Hcchani^ti and Kurctechni6t6.t>. 6J3 J ^^* \>s~ J 1 Contracts made for Stage and Theatrical work of every description. Firework displays provided at the shortest notice. Pyrotechnists to the N.Z. International Exhibition, 1882. ESTIMATES GIVKX. In ARMAGH STRUT, CHBISTCHUBCH, NEff E1ALAND. GEORGE FLETCHER, Bailor Sc ffioollen Draper. fc~j~e) (^/ ^= r~^ M. R. Miller 4<> Newton King, New Plymouth - - 38 J. C. Davis - 38 Clarence Rennell ,, - 38- Macdermott, Loughnan and Scarr, Melbourne and Sydney - 45> SHIIPIXU COMPANIES. PAGE. New Zealand Shipping Company, Limited - 6 Shaw, Savill, and Albion Company - 7 Orient Steam Navigation Company - 8 Lake Wakatipu Steam Service - 12: Tourists' Bureau, Sydney 46- HOTELS. Deschler's Invercargill 19 Prince of Wales ., - 20- Southland Club J? - 20 Crescent > - 21 Eichardt's QueenstoMTi - 21 The Grand Dunediu - 22 Criterion - 24 Carroll's ,, - 24 Provincial Port Chalmers - - 23 Port Chalmers ,, - 23 Star and Garter Oamaru 24 Empire Christchurch - Inside front cover Clarendon ,, - 25 Queen's ,, - 25- Terminus ,, - 28 Oxford > - 28 Roger's Temperance ,, - 29 Eoyal Lyttelton - 29- Masonic Napier - 49 Clarendon Club ,, - 49 Royal Mail Auckland - 34 Star ,, - 35 Albert - 36 Clarendon - 37 Nevada ,, - 37 Governor Browne ,, - 37 Criterion New Plj-mouth - - 39' Taranaki - 39- Tauranga Tauranga - 48- Lake House Ohinemutu - 49- The Grand Mellx>unie - 42: PAGE Sydney - 43 Menzies' ,, - 45 Rigby's Council Club ,, 4f> MISCELLANEOVS. Burton Brothers, Photographers, Dunetlin - 11 New Zealand Hardware Company, Limited, Dunedin - - 13 Edward Reece, Hardware Merchant, Christchurch - 32 E. Porter and Co. ,, Auckland - 36- Reid and Gray, Agricultural Implement Makers, Dunedin - 14 Rose and Whitmore, Stage Mechanists, Christchurch - - 29 Mosgiel Woollen Factory Company, Limited, Dunedin - - 14 New Zealand Express Company ,, - - 15 Nimmo and Blair, Seed Merchants ,, - - IB D. B. McLaren and Co., Seed Merchants, Christchurch - 32 A. R. Livingston, Artists' Colourman, Dunedin - 17 J. Wilkie and Co., Booksellers and Stationers, Dunedin - 16 Wise, Caffin, and Co. , Booksellers and Stationers, Dunedin - 1 6 Fergusson and Mitchell, Stationers, Dunedin - 17 S. Kirkpatrick and Co., Preserve Manufacturers, Nelson - 33 A. J. White, Furnishing Warehouse, Christclmrch - - 30 (ieorge Fletcher, Tailor, Christchurch - - 29 Edwin Robertson, Livery Stables, &c., Tauranga - 40 Waiwera Hot Springs - - 32A Martin and Pleasance, Homoeopathic Chemists. Melbourne 41 W. Williams, Portmanteau Manufacturer, &c., Melbourne - 44 Jacobs, Hart, and Co., Tobacco Merchants, Melbourne - - 46 Thos. Webb and Sons, China Merchants, Sydney and Melbourne 46 I 'capes and Shaw, Drapers, &c., Sydney - 47 ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK NEW ZEALAND -ISSUED BY THE- foicn Steam" Ship Ofcmpanq of ^c\v Zealand 9$& A*5M XT *C JL fc' Tf&S *- ' (LIMITED) GEORGE ROBERTSON AND CO. (LIMITED), MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, ADELAIDE, AND BRISBANE. v.'i MDCCCLXXXIV. Enion (Steam hip (Eompang OP NEW ZEALAND (Limited). SUBSCRIBED - 5OO,OOO - 359,420. The Company's Fleet consists of the following PIEST-CLASS STEAMERS employed in the Intercolonial and Coasting Trade of the Colony : Gross Gross. Retr. I.H.P. Rear. LH.P. ROTOMAHANA 1727 2000 HERO.. 985 750 TARAWERA 2003 1750 PENGUIN . 749 900 WAIHORA.. 2004 1750 HAWEA 721 850 WAIRARAPA 1786 1750 WANAKA . 493 600 MANAPOURI 1783 1750 OHAU 766 500 TEKAPO . . 2350 1500 TAUPO 766 500 HAUROTO . . 1988 1500 OMAPERE . 601 500 TE ANAU . . 1652 1500 TAIAROA . 438 5CO WAKATIPU 1797 1250 MAHINAPUA 423 500 ARAWATA 1098 1250 SUVA.. 293 250 RINGAROOMA 1096 1250 SOUTHERN CROSS 282 250 TAKAPUNA 930 2000 BEAUTIFUL STAR 177 150 ROTORUA . . 926 900 WAIHI 92 100 BRANCHES AND AGENCIES. NEW ZEALAND Akaroa, Auckland, Blenheim, Bluff, Christ- church, Gisborne, Greymouth, Hokitika, Invercargill, Lyttel- ton, Napier, Nelson, Oamaru, Picton, Port Chalmers, Russell, Taranaki, Tauranga, Timaru, Wellington and Westport. VICTORIA Melbourne. NEW SOUTH WALES Newcastle, Sydney. TASMANIA Hobart. FIJI Levuka, Suva. LONDON OFFICE - 18 Walbrook, E.G. HEAD OFFICE DUNEDIH. JAMES MILLS, MANAGING DIRECTOR. The following are the regular services in which the Company's steamers are engaged : INTERCOLONIAL SERVICES. The steamers of the Company leave Melbourne weekly for all New Zealand ports, calling at Hobart every alternate trip. They also make weekly departures from Sydney for New Zealand, via Auckland and East Coast Ports, and fortnightly via Cook Strait and Wellington. Tn addition, a steamer is despatched from Melbourne once a month for Suva and Levuka (Fiji), and another from Auckland (New Zealand) for the same ports. COASTAL SERVICES. The Coastal Services include weekly steamers from Dunedin (Port Chalmers) to Auckland ma East Coast Ports, and vice versa ; and to Manukau via intermediate ports, and vice versa ; four times a week between Wellington and Nelson, and four rimes a week between Wellington and Lyttelton each way. In addition to these, there are services twice a week between Dunediu and Timaru each way, between Dunedin and Oamaru each way, weekly between Dunedin and West Coast of Middle Island, and twice a week between Wellington and Blenheim ; while a special steamer runs regularly between Wellington and Auckland via Gisborne and Napier, leaving each terminal port on alternate Tuesdays. INTERINSULAR SERVICE.-FIJI. The Company's steamer " Suva " plies regularly between the principal islands of the Fiji group. Passengers should obtain copies of the Company's Monthly Pocket Guide, which contains time-table and all information regarding the movements of the steamers. These are to be had on application at any of the Company's offices, and on board the boats. AGENTS IN NEW ZEALAND FOR THE ORIENT STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY-- LIMITED. Passengers booked for London at through rates, covering Inter- colonial fares, and securing special advantages. INTRODUCTORY. PAGE Colonization of New Zealand Attractions to Tourists Means of Communication Pro- gress of Union Steam Ship Company 1-9 CHAPTER I. General characteristics of scenery of Middle or South Island The Lake District 13-19 CHAPTER II. BLUFF-INVERCARGILL. Invercargill to Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri - 20-31 CHAPTER III. LAKE WAKATIPU Kingston Queenstown Glenorchy Kinloch. The Remarkables Arrowtown Lake Hayes Frankton View from Ben Lomond Mount Bowen Paradise Flat Diamond Lake Sylvan Lake Ascent of Mount Earnslaw Lennox Falls Lake Harris Rere Lake - 32-68 CHAPTER IV. LAKES WANAKA AND HAWEA Cardrona_Kawarau River Roaring Meg Pembrok e Various excursions from Pembroke- Glendhu Matu- kituki Valley Scenery round Lake Wanaka Pigeon Island and its Lakelet Sunrises and Sunsets in Lake District - - 59-7 & CHAPTER V. PEMBROKE TO DUNEDIN: Cromwell Clyde PAGE. Alexandra Roxburgh Lawrence - - 77-79 CHAPTER VI. DUNEDIN : Early History Excursions in neigh- bourhood Nichol's Creek Blueskin Port Chalmers Portobello Mosgiel Taieri Beach - 80-89 CHAPTER VII. DUNEDIN TO MOUNT COOK AND LAKES TEKAPO, PUKAKI, AND OHAU. Palmerston Oamaru Timaru Ashburton Glaciers of Mount Cook 90-104 CHAPTER VIII. CHRISTCHURCH : Early History Excursions in neighbourhood Sumner Kaiapoi Lincoln Lyttelton Haiimer Springs Akaroa - 105-115 CHAPTER IX. CHRISTCHURCH TO OTIRA GORGE Rolleston Glaciers West Coast Road Porter's Pass The Bealey Kumara Hokitika Francis Joseph Glacier Greymouth Westport - 116-128 CHAPTER X. CHRISTCHURCH TO NELSON Picton and Blenheim. Excursions in the neighbourhood of Nelson Wairau massacre - 129-134 CHAPTER XL WEST COAST SOUNDS : General Description Annual Excursions Preservation Inlet Long Sound Cuttle Cove Dusky Sound Smith Sound George Sound Milford Sound 135-151 CHAPTER XII. AUCKLAND : Early History and general descrip- PAGE tion Excursions in neighbourhood Mount Eden The Three Kings North Shore 155-169 CHAPTER XIII. WAIWERA ANDKAWAU Whangarei Coromandel 170-181 CHAPTER XIV. BAY OF ISLANDS : Early History Kororareka Russell Treaty of Waitangi Rebellion of Hone Heke Keri-Keri Kawa-Kawa - 182-199 CHAPTER XV. THE WAIKATO : Scenes of the War Capture of Koheroa Attack 011 Rangiriri Alexandra Hamilton Cambridge Te Awamutu Capture of Orakau Routes to Hot Lake District 200-213 CHAPTER XVI. THE THAMES : Great Kauri Tree Gold Mines Overland to Tauranga Capture of Totara Pah by Hongi Puriri Paeroa Kati-Kati 214-223 CHAPTER XVII. TAURANGA : Massacre of Ngaiterangi Tribe- Battle of the Gate Pah Capture of Te Ranga Tauranga Cemetery White Island 224-229 CHAPTER XVIII. TAURANGA TO OHINEMUTU : The Oropi Bush Mangarewa Gorge - 230-235- CHAPTER XIX. OHINEMUTU : Choice of an Hotel Boiling Springs Native life and customs a wJtare- puni Sulphur Point Rotorua township The Priest's Bath Madame Rachel's Bath Titikere Whakarewarewa Rotokawau Mokoia Legend of Hinernoa - 236-260 CHAPTER XX. WAIROA : The old mission station Lake Tara- wera A Maori haka - 261-273 CHAPTER XXI. TARAWEBA : Wairoa to Lake Rotomahana Different routes . hoosing a guide Te Ariki - - 274-281 CHAPTER XXII. ROTOMAHANA AND THE PINK AND WHITE TER- RACES - - 282-299 CHAPTER XXIII. ORAKEI-KORAKO : Routes Ohinemutu to Taupo A boiling river The Alum Cave Karapiti 300-308 CHAPTER XXIV. TAUPO : Glen Lofley The Waikato River Crow's Nest geyser The Witches' Cauldron Big Ben Huka Falls Wairakei geysers Lake Rotokawa Tokano 309-319 CHAPTER XXV. HAWKE'S BAY NAPIER GISBORNE : Route Taupo to Napier- -Attractions of Napier and neighbourhood Gisborne Te Kooti massacre Overland route Napier to Wanganui The 70-mile Bush Woodville Manawatu Gorge Palmerston - 320-330 CHAPTER XXVI. WANGANUI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD : Description of town Battle of Moutoa Wanganui to Hawera Patea Capture of Wereroa Pah - 331-334 CHAPTER XXVII. TARANAKI: Hawera to New Plymouth Different routes Waimate Plains Opunake Pari- haka Pungarehu Hau-hau religion Inci- dents of Taranaki War 'New Plymouth Waitara Mount Egmont 335-344 CHAPTER XXVIII. WELLINGTON : Overland route New Plymouth to Wellington Early history of Province Description of the City Excursions in neigh- bourhood the Hutt McNab's Gardens Wairarapa Valley Rimutaka Railway Masterton 345-355 APPENDIX - L-v. ._ AUCKLAND TO SYDNEY 1281 M SorthGape aUJ ZfaLbij-aLbi^AUJUyo Scale of English Miles 50^ UK) ISO 170' Longitude K 172'ofGr^iwich 17V PREFACE. The facilities for communication between the Old World and the Colonies have increased so rapidly of late years that journeys which were at one time looked forward to with dread, and undertaken with misgiving, are now made, not only under circumstances that recall the comforts aud luxuries at the command of the traveller on shore, but with a rapidity which barely allows him time to become accustomed to his new surroundings before his destination is reached. Tourists are already looking further 'afield, and the dark places of the earth are having the light of exploration thrown upon them. The Grand Tour is not now limited to the round of the European Continent its boundaries have been extended until they embrace almost the entire globe. The enterprise of the New Zealand Shipping Company and the Shaw, Savill and Albion Company in establishing a direct service between Great Britain and New Zealand, and carrying it on by steamers unsurpassed for speed and appointments by any afloat, has drawn more closely the tie that binds this Colony to the Mother Country, and afforded opportunities to English people to become acquainted with the attractions of a country which but for this they might have left unvisited. Already English tourists are wandering from the beaten track and seeking in New Zealand life and scenery that change which is the charm of all travel. The sister colonies have not been slow to show their appreciation of the proximity of a country, the bracing summer climate of which offers a welcome relief to the enervating atmosphere of their own, and season after season the increasing number of visitors that cross over from Australia by the splendid boats that carry on the inter- colonial trade testify to the growing popularity of New Zealand as a tourist country. Recognising that without a guide to the various attractions of a new country the traveller's pleasure in his visit is very much diminished, the Directors of the Union Steam Ship Company of New Zealand have on two previous occasions issued publications of this nature, which have served their purpose and met with the appreciation of the public. The rapidity with which the Colony has progressed, and the opening up of new routes of travel, however, has made the issue of a Handbook on a more- extended basis than their previous publications a matter of necessity. With a view to supplying this want the Directors of the Company entrusted the preparation of a work, such as was required, to three gentlemen who have made themselves familiar with the characteristic features of the parts of the Colony which they have respectively described. The present volume is the result of their joint labours. The description of the North Island has been written by Mr. Alex. Wilson, M.A., and that of the Middle Island by Mr. Rutherford Waddell, M.A., while the account of the West Coast Sounds is contributed by Mr. T. W. Whitson. Every place described has been visited by the writers, and reliable information collected on the spot ; and ,while keeping its primary object as a Guide Book to the Colony prominently in view, the compilers have aimed at making the work one of interest to the general reader. DUNKDIS, NEW ZEALAND, 1st October, 188lt. CHAPTER I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. The South or Middle Island (as it is indifferently called/ of New Zealand comprises the Provinces of Southland, Otago, Canterbury, Westland, Marlborough, and Nelson. The scenery of the South Island differs largely from that of the North. In the latter, volcanic forces have been stronger, or perhaps more recent in their action, and, as a consequence, the North Island is the home of burning mountains and boiling springs and lakes. These of course are very remarkable, and hitherto have chiefly attracted the attention of travellers who have visited New Zealand ; but recently it has been found that the South or Middle Island possesses attractions, if somewhat different in kind, not inferior in degree. The South Island is the " land of the mountain and the flood." It is the chosen home of the ice king of lakes of enormous depth, and of surpassing beauty of mountains, whose passes are as high as the famous peaks of Scotland and of glaciers unequalled almost outside the region of Polar snow. The lakes in the South Island are sometimes called the cold lakes of New Zealand in order to distinguish them from the hot lakes of the North Island, They are very numerous, somewhere about sixty can be counted. Many of them are of course not only of small dimensions, but of comparatively little interest. 14 There are twelve large lakes, and the country in which they lie is usually called " The Lake District." If the re ider will look at a map, he will see that a line drawn north- east, from Preservation Inlet to the Rangitata River, would pass through these twelve lakes. They are divided into five groups. The southern groups includes Pouteriteri, Hakapoua, and Hauroto. The south-western group comprises Monowai, Manapouri, and Te Anau, and is drained by the Waiau River. The central group consists of Wakatipu, Hawea, and Wanaka, drained by the Clutha River. All of these are in Otago ; the only group outside Otago is the northern one, which comprises Ohau, Pukaki, and Tekapo, and is drained by the Waitaki River. This group is in Canterbury. Now, the ultimate route of tourists will lie along this line, beginning with the group of lakes in the extreme south, and g-oing right through to those in the north. As yet, however, with the exception of the lakes in the south-western and central group, the journey is not such as eveiy visitor would care to undertake. If one is willing to undergo some fatigue, it is possible to make the journey right through from south to north ; but in order to do this the distance, from the southern to south-western group, i.e., from Monowai to Manapouri, and again from the central group to the northern, i.e., from Wanaka and Hawea to Ohau, must be cove.red either on foot or on horseback. To accomplish this the southern group would have to be reached either from Preservation Inlet, or by the railway from Riverton to Otautau or Nightcaps, thence across the Waiau, and thence northward to Monowai, and thence up the valley of the Waiau to Manapouri and Te Anau. From here, joining the railway at the Elbow, and then on to Wakatipu ; or else going from the northern arm of Te Anau down the Greenstone Valley ; or, better still, up the Mararoa River, past the two Mavora 15 lakes, and down the Von River to Wakatipu. Then on from Wakatipu by coach to Cromwell, thence to Wanaka ; or Wanaka may be reached, on foot or horse, by going over the Crown Ranges, and down the Cardrona Valley. From. Wanaka there is a track down the Haagt Valley, which leads to the West Coast. But the road to the northern group branches off at Alberton, about four miles from Pembroke, up the Lindis Pass to Lakes Ohau, Pukaki, and Tekapo, and from this last the coach is caught to Fairlie Creek, thence by train to Timaru. This is what will ultimately be the tourist's route, but meantime it only exists, at least the greater part of it, as an ideal. The track is already formed; but with the exception of the distance between Wakatipu, and Wanaka, and Hawea, there are no coaches, and the only means of locomotion is on foot or on horseback. This journey therefore, meantime, cannot be recommended to tourists unless thev are willing to undergo some little m difficulty and fatigue. The route laid down in the following pages will be found the most practicable for seeing the scenery of this wondrous region. We say wondrous, for that is the unanimous verdict of those who know it best, and are the best qualified to form an opinion regarding it There is just one thing in which the scenery of this region is distinctly inferior to that of older countries it has no human or historic background. There is a story told of Robert Burns, that he stood with Dugald Stewart one day on the Braid Hills, looking out on the fair morning world. " Beneath were cottages, early spai-rows, doubtless noisy in the thatch, pillars of blue smoke, telling of preparation of breakfast for labourers afield, curling in the calm air. Burns took in the whole scene, and declared that in his view the worthiest object it contained was the cluster of smoking cots. Poetry for him lay in the cottage 16 rather than in the tree that overshadowed it, or the stream that sparkled past." This element of enjoyment will be absent from the greater portion of the scenery of these lake districts. In the more remote parts, Wordsworth's lines are almost literally correct : No habitation can be seen ; but they Who journey thither find themselves alone With a few sheep, with rocks, and stones, and kites, That overhead are sailing in the sky ; It is in truth an utter solitude. And yet we are not sure if that is not in some respects desirable ; the presence of man rather detracts from the charm of these regions the real live being is a little jarring amid the sublimities of these solitudes, We do not greatly miss the actual thing, but, we do miss the ideal human back- ground, for, if not in reality, yet in imagination, the human historic element adds an immense charm to Nature's scenes. In proof of this one has only to think of what the Cumber- land Lakes, the Yarrow, the Scottish Highlands, the European Alps, would be without their historic associations. In his *' Seven lamps of Architecture," Ruskin touches upon this point. After describing, as he only can, the charm of a pine forest in the Jura, above the village of Champagnoli, and the impression it made upon him, he goes on to remark that *' it would be difficult to conceive a scene less dependent upon any other interest than that of its own secluded and serious beauty ; but the writer well remembers the sudden blankness and chill which were cast upon it when he endeavoured, in order more strictly to arrive at the sources of its impre'ssive- ness, to imagine it for a moment a scene in some aboriginal forest of the New Continent. The flowers in an instant lost their light, the river its music ; the hills became oppressively desolate, a heaviness in the boughs of the darkened forest showed how much of their former power had been depea- 17 *dent on a life that was not theirs, how much of the glory of ^the imperishable, or continually renewed creation is reflected from things more precious in their memories, than it in its renewing. Those ever springing flowers, and ever growing streams, had been dyed by the deep colors of human en- durance, valor, and virtue ; and the crests of the sable hills that rose against the evening sky received a deeper worship because their far-shadows fell eastward over the iron wall of Joux and the four-square Keep of Granson." This is all very true, and the traveller who visits this new country will be able to verify it to the letter. The mountains, lakes, rivers here are almost entirely destitute of any human history. True, indeed, there are some traces here and there of man. His bleaching bones have been picked up amid the brown tussocks of the lonely plains, and the hills and hollows bear traces of his efforts to wring from the hard clasp of nature, the yellow gold. These tell the story of a time that was, a time in which human passion and pathos played their parts in the history of the vanished Past. But it is a Past, for the most part, unhistoric if not unheroic. Doubtless this may be because it is so near to the present. It does not recede far enough from our view to lose its commonplace details, and gather round its pathos and its passion, that ideal mellowing light, with which the setting sun smooths out the shadows westward, and bathes the far hills in a soft purple glory. As yet no Ariosto of the south has arisen to do for these mountains and lakes, what the " Ariosto of the north " has done for those of Scotland. But, indeed, the task of the former will be much more difficult, for he will have to create the very materials which the latter found ready to his hand. Wakatipu and Wanaka have no Lady of the Lake, no story of beauty and anguish 18 walking hand in hand to death. Manapouri or Te Anau has no Lausanne or Ferney no Rydal Mount or Rotha Stream that "have been the abodes Of men that unto them bequeathed a name." The mountains and valleys are vacant, all, of those heroic records that weave their deathless memories round the Highlands of Scotland, or the Alpine passes of Switzerland. Nor have the woods and rivers here any of those histories and legends that give such charms to those of older lands. The Clutha, the Waiau, and the Waitaki may have much to attract, but they have no Coblentz or Ehrenbreitstein on their banks ; no Byron or Scott or Wordsworth has yet immortalised them in song. What a recent writer in the Melbourne Review has well said of one of these rivers is equally true of all : " they are rivers without a history, they want that sanctification which others, less sublime, have acquired after centuries of contact with human life ; of grandeur they have enough, but they lack pathos. Human beliefs and passions have not consecrated their waters, nor has any human struggle glorified their banks ; superstition has not peopled them with those em- bodiments of protective or destructive forces which haunt other streams river gods and nymphs, water-wraiths, brownies and kelpies ; no one in whom the world has had any interest has ever lived upon the shores, or even visited the rivers ; they have no association, no romance, no tragedy, no poet." It will not therefore be denied that that soft and mellowing 1 light with which the historic imagination invests the Past of older countries, and in which that Past lies bathed in a " glory that never was on sea or land," is absent from New Zealand, or at least from that part of it to which we now particularly refer. But 19 "when this is said all is said ; when this abatement from the -attractions of these districts is made there is no more to be done. In everything else the scenery stands unique and alone. As if to make up for the lack of human history, nature has been specially painstaking with these regions, and has adorned them with a beauty and a grandeur all their own. Some day, no doubt, they will gather round them, like all the others, the passion and pathos of human history, and " after the chemist, the geologist, the ethnologist, shall come the poet worthy that name the true son of God shall come singing his songs;" but, meantime, they ground their appeal to the mind and heart of man solely on their own inherent charms on the surpassing grandeur of their mountain. ranges, on the witching loveliness of their woods and waters. How the visitor may best become acquainted with iheni by what means of travelling, and at what expense of time and money, we shall now proceed to indicate. 20 CHAPTER II. BLUFF-INVERCARGILL : IXVERCARGILL TO LAKES TE AXAET AND MAXAPOURI. The first point in New Zealand at which the Union Steam Ship Company's steamers from Melbourne and Hobart touch is The Bluff. The township built on the harbour is named Campbelltown, but it is generally spoken of as The Bluff. The visitor will not be greatly impressed by his first view of New Zealand, as the Bluff presents rather a bleak appearance, but his attention will be attracted by a remarkable hill or headland which rises immediately over the entrance of the harbour, and from the summit of which (855 feet) a magnificent view of the surrounding country is. obtained. Here, too, is to be found a large variety of Botanical treasures, there being no less than one-fourth of the Phanerogamic and Fern Flora of the Colony to be gathered on this hill by the diligent collector. If the tourist is not proceeding to Dunedin in the steamer, but means first to visit the Lake District, he will pi-oceed by rail to IXVERCARGILL. HOTELS. Southland Club, Albion, Prince of Wales, Crescent,, and Commercial. BANKS. New Zealand, Union, Bank of Australasia, Colonial,. National Bank of New Zealand, Bank of New South Wales. NEWSPAPEBS. " Southland Times " (morning), " Southland. News " (evening). AthenaBum and Reading Room. Invercargill is 18 miles distant from the Bluff (trains, leave each end four times daily), and is the chief town of the Provincial District of Southland. It is the outlet of a. 21 very rich and extensive agricultural district, and the town is growing rapidly. Twenty-five years ago it had scarcely 50 inhabitants, now it has nearly 5000. Those who laid out the town are much to be commended for their taste and foresight. It is distinguished above all other towns by the width of its streets, and the liberal provision which has been made for its prospective expansion into a large and populous city. It possesses already several fine buildings, and these are being constantly added to. Although being built on a plain detracts from the picturesqueness of its appearance, the great width of the public thoroughfares offers great facilities for the planting of trees, and the day is looked forward to when one of the attractions of Inver- cargill will be its length of shady boulevardes. The town is at present somewhat scattered, but the services of cabs and tram-cars overcome this drawback. There is an excellent Athenaeum and Reading Room, to which visitors are admitted on being introduced. An excursion may be made by train to Riverton, a picturesque little place, and a rising summer resort, about 21 miles from Invercargill. So far as scenery is concerned, Invercargill need not detain the visitor long, and he may start as soon as he wishes for the Lake District. INVERCARGILL TO TE ANAU AND MANAPOURI. ROUTE. Train to Elbow : Thence by buggy or horse to Takitimos Hotel, thence to the Lakes. DISTANCES. Elbow to Takitimos Hotel, 40 miles ; Takitimos to Lake Manapouri, 10 miles ; to Te Anau, 18 miles. Hotel charges at Elbow and Takitimos Hotels, 8s. to 10s. per day. Two trains run from Invercargill to Elbow every day, Sunday excepted : one leaves in the morning between six and seven o'clock, and goes right through to Kingston, on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, and if the visitor does not wish to go to Manapouri or Te Anau, he must travel by this train, as it catches the steamboat to Queenstown. The 22 other train leaves in the afternoon at 4.30 p.m., and reaches the Elbow about 8 p.m., and stops there for the night.* The visitor may select the train that suits him best. Should time be an object, if he takes the morning train, he may, by hiring horses at the Elbow, go right through to Takitimos Hotel that same day. If he travels by the afternoon train he must stay at the Elbow- all night, and start the next morning. The Railway line from: Invercargill to the Elbow passes through some magnificent agricultural country. It will be a pleasant change from the watery waste to the green fertile slopes and meads along which the train runs.. If the visitor should chance to come from the inner and hotter parts of Australia, where the vegetation in summer is scanty, and the fields parched and arid, his eye will be charmed with the different scene that meets him here. Verdant fields, richly wooded downs, rivers and rippling streams, cosy homesteads and thriving villages- all these he will see as the train sweeps on, and the first view of New Zealand, if it be indeed the first, cannot fail to win his admiration. A smart run of about four hours brings the visitor to the Elbow, and here he will find comfortable hotel quarters. It has been mostly the custom of visitors to go on from Invercargill to Queenstown and Lake "NVakatipu, and not visit Manapouri and Te Anau at all. This is a very great mistake, and has arisen partly from ignorance of these lakes, and partly from the difficulty of reaching them. It is, indeed, a matter of great regret that better facilities do not exist for seeing them. Anthony Trollope said of "VVakatipu when he visited it many years ago, "it is the most beautiful lake in New *Note. As the hours at which trains leave are liable to frequent alteration, travellers should not depend on those given in the guide, but should refer to their Bradshaw, or to the handy little time-table published by the U.S.S. Company, which may be had gratis at any of their agencies. O S < S x5 C3 23 Zealand." In his book, " The High Alps of Xew Zealand," published in 1883, Mr. Green, of Alpine fame, writes thus of the same lake, " it is amazingly beautiful, the only lake which can surpass it is Lucerne." Neither of these gentlemen ever saw Te Anau or Manapouri ; if they had, we are quite certain Trollope would have changed his mind, and Mr. Green would have been compelled to admit that if Lucerne excels, it excels, not because of its own inherent charms, but because of the historic memories that are associated with it. If tourists, therefore, wish to see the most beautiful of the Xew Zealand lakes perhaps, indeed, two of the loveliest lakes in the world they should visit Manapouri and Te Anau. There are no great hardships to be endured, the road from the Elbow to Takitimos hotel is very good indeed, and they will find the hotel plain but comfortable. Arrived there, horses can be hired, and a short ride of about ten miles brings them to the shores of Manapouri, and five more up the valley of the Waiau to Te Anau. Tents, blankets, etc., for camping out, and guides may be obtained at the hotel, but the proprietor contemplates building a cottage beside Manapouri, for the convenience of tourists, which will probably be ready soon. MAXAPOURI. " This lake is of indescribable shape and indefinite dimensions, being so cut up into bays, gulfs, and arms as to make it impossible to determine what is length and what is breadth. It covers an area of some 50 square miles." The lake is almost entirely surrounded by moun- tains, except half-a-mile on its eastern edge Surprise Cove where it makes its exit by the "Waiau. Climbing a little eminence here, called View Hill, a capital view of the lake is obtained. Xo more charming scene could be imagined the .mountains sweep round in the form of an amphitheatre, 24 stepping back from the water's edge in tier after tier of" beautifully wooded terraces. On the left the Hunter moun- tains run up some 6000 feet ; on the right the white towers of the Spire Peaks (7587) look down over the snowy heads of the Cathedral Peaks and the lower summits of the Kepler- ranges, while far away, between the west and north arms, Leaning Peak and Steep Peak watch the lake and guard the pass to the West Coast Sounds. These mountains are covered with timber, and ridged all round above with snow, and below them, in sylvan beauty, Manapouri wanders in and out in the most promiscuous manner among the jutting heads. There are four distinctly marked fiords or arms, and in the lake itself there are five beautifully wooded islands : "Whose beauty so enamoured hath the lake, It clasps them ever in its summer arms, And wastes itself away on them in kisses." It is these islands which lend so great a charm to the witching loveliness of Manapouri. They are of convex shape, thickly wooded, and not very high, and in their light green robes they look like emeralds in the calm of a silver sea. ' Not hours but days may be spent in climbing these- islands and exploring the creeks and coves of the lake. These are almost without number and of endless variety. Hardly any two are alike, and no greater delight is conceiv- able than to sail in and out and around these " all a summer's day," or to lie in the boat and gaze at the water-fowl teal and paradise ducks, and the curious white crested grebe r . " most beautiful of birds," disporting themselves upon the- lake ; or, as evening descends, to watch the shadows lengthen- ing from the west, the solemn soft stillness, broken only by the twitter of a bird, the whish of water-fowl on the wing, the. double-croak of the crested grebe, or from the heart of th& 25 wood the hoarse cough of the kakapo, and the shrill cry of the weka and the kiwi. " And still the light is changing. High above Float soft pink clouds ; others with deeper flush Stretch like flamingoes bending toward the south. Comes a more solemn brilliance o'er the sky, A meaning more intense upon the air, The inspiration of the dying day. Day is dying Pierced by shafts of Time he bleeds, Melted rubies sending Through the water and the sky, Earth and Heaven blending. All the long-drawn " wooded slopes" Up to cloudland lifting. Slow between them drifts the swan, Twixt two heavens drifting." A summer evening sail around the islands and arms of Manapouri, like that of one down Wanaka, cf which we shalL speak again, is an experience never to be forgotten.* " Earth and heaven seem one, Life a glad trembling on the outer edge Of unknown rapture." TE AXAU. From Manapouri the tourist may return to the hotel, and go from there to Te Anau. This is a ride of about 16 miles. The path is good and veil-defined,, leading across the ilararoa River and Lynwood Downs to the Te Anau Plains. Te Anau may also be reached from Manapouri. We recommend this as the shorter route, the distance being only about seven miles. The path is good, but is a little difficult to follow without a guide. The tourist, leaving View Hill * As yet there is no boat that can be obtained for hire on this lake. The one that is there at present is the property of one or two of the station-holders of the district, and their permission to use her has to be sought. 26 behind him, strikes off into the plain, keeping about half a mile from the bush on his left hand side. Riding on, midway across the plain, he turns sharp to the left, and soon comes to a deserted station and woolshed. Here he strikes upon a path which he follows for about three miles, skirting the banks of the Waiau. At the end of that distance he will find the ruins of rabbiters' huts. Passing through a wire fence he rides straight on, crossing a dry riverbed, and he . shortly meets a swamp. He keeps this on his right hand till he is past it, when he will see a narrow opening in the low tussock ridges a little to his right. He rides through this, keeping straight on, and in a short time he emerges within sight of the Te Anau Lake. Te Anau is the largest lake in the Middle Island. It is about 38 miles long, varies in breadth from 1 to 6 miles, and covers an area of 132 square miles. It has three great arms, or fiords, these again being broken up into smaller ones, ranging from 10 to 18 miles long, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. This lake is the leasb known of all, parts of the country adjacent to it having never yet been explored. The first view of Te Anau is a little disappointing, the shore on the eastern side, for about 28 miles, being fiat, shingly, and scrubby, but after that the timber begins, mountains rise, and the whole northern and western side is surrounded by a rampart of high ranges, covered with dense forests, and crowned with perpetual snow. These mountains are not nearly so imposing as those of Wakatipu or Wanaka, the average height not being more than about 5,000 feet. But what they lack in rugged grandeur is far more than - compensated by their beauty. With the exception of these twenty-eight miles on the eastern side, the whole of Te Anau is surrounded with densely wooded mountains, and -he green sheen of the forest, crowned with the gleaming 27 snow above, makes up a picture which, for extent and' loveliness, is unsurpassed. It is greatly to be regretted that better facilities for exploiting the beauties of this lake do not at present exist. There is one boat upon the lake, belonging to Messrs. Melland and Williams, who own the Te Anau station, and whose picturesque homestead is on the eastern shore of the lake. Mr. Henry, the guide, also owns a small boat, and handles her with consummate skill, but the uncertainty of the weather sometimes makes excursions tedious. There is every probability, however, that in a short time visitors to this lake will be able to explore its beauties with comfort and despatch. It has all the charms of Manapouri, but on a much more extensive scale. The scenery of the fiords and arms is of the most varied and beautiful character, resembling not a little that of the West Coast Sounds. From one of them. the south-west arm of the middle fiord it is possible to reach Caswell Sound on the West Coast. The distance is only about 15 miles, but it necessitates some very difficult climbing. Dr. Roberts, of Dunedin, with some friends, made the journey in three days. Like Manapouri, Te Anau has numerous islands ten in all. Some of them stand within the fiords, and they are all wooded, and affoi'd endless enjoyment to the seeker after pleasure and knowledge. A portion of the north-western side of Te Anau has never yet been explored, and as ignorance gives a wide range of probabilities, it is conjectured that Moas and Maoris the latter the remnants of the Ngatimamoe tribe are concealed in those dense and trackless forests. The valleys of these lakes were once well known to the Maoris. Those from the West Coast finding their way down through the Haast Pass at the head of Wanaka to Wakatipu ; and those from the north up the Kawarau River,. 28 the meeting place being, it is conjectured, in the neighbour- hood of Lake Hayes. A brisk trade was carried on, chiefly in greenstone, which they used for axes and chisels ; and in these valleys, especially about Arrowtown, many Maori implements, chisels, porphyry, mere-mere,