GT %* I* m- ^1 O P> (H *^ #1 # ^ ^ % u S|l #0i;iii!:ir< AN ACCOUNT OF A STEAMBOAT EXCURSION PARTY OF LADIES AND GENTLEMEN FROM WORCESTER. MASS., IN THE SUMMER OF 1869. WORCESTER: PRINTED BY CHAS. HAMILTON. PALLADIUM OFFICE. THE COMMITTEE, IN BEHALF OF THE 'COIT EXCURSIONISTS," OF 1869, respectfully dedicate this little volume to the Chaplain of the Party, REV. G. J. SANGER. PREFACE. y^\^ff.E owe no apology to our friends the " CoiTS " or y^^^ the chance reader for presenting this little volume, '"'^ as we were elected to do it. If we have succeeded in selecting and arranging such matter as faithfully gives an account of the delightful trip of 1860, and if the work in otlier respects meets your kind approlxition, we shall be satisfied. We believe it to be the duty of every one to break loose occasionally from the restraint of business or the dull routine of domestic cares, and seek that recreation we all need, amid new scenes and under new circumstances ; and we know of no trip better adapted to invigorate us physically and mentally, and inspire us with love and gratitude to the Creator of all things, than a trip upon the deep, blue sea! "Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll! Time writes no wrinkle on thine azure brow, — Such as creation's dawn beheld thee thou rollest now." God never intended we should spend our days constantly engrossed with the cares of life ! If he had, he would not have created a world tilled with so much to enjoy and given us such capabilities for enjoying it. As much of our enjoy- 1* VI PREFACE. ment iu life depends upon the memories of the past, we hope this little record of a very pleasant excursion will serve to keep memory's linlcs bright, and perhaps cast a pleasant beam upon some dark hour of life. With these thoughts, kind friends, we submit the following pages to your charitable criticism, and trust we may meet many times ere we are called upon " to join The innumerable caravan wliicli moves To that mysterious realm wliere each sliall talce His chamber in the silent lialls of death," and that Ave may all so live as to " approach the grave Like one who wraps the drapery of his coucli About him, and lies down to pleasant dreams," is the earnest wish of Your Committee. OFFICERS OF STEAMER. CAPTAIN : W. R. BROWN^, New London. FIRST PILOT: GEORGE GEER. New London. CHIEF engineer: FRANK BIDWELL, Norwich. SECOND engineer: HENRY DURFEE, Norwich. STEWARD : JAJMES LAWLESS, New London. CHIEF MATE: ALBERT LESTER, Lyme. SECOND mate: CHARLES LESTER, Lyme. OFFICERS OF THE PAETY. PRESIDENT : GEORGE R. PECKHA3I. VICE presidents: G. A. BARNARD, WM. C. BARBOUR. SECRETARY : WM. MECORNEY. TREASURER : GEO. W. WHEELER. STEWARD : HENRY GLAZIER, CHAPLAIN : Rev. G. J. SANGER. NAMES OF THE PARTY. E. E. ABBOTT, Mrs. AUGUSTA ABBOTT, H. H. ADAMS, Mrs. H. H. ADAMS, FRANK A. ATHERTON, JOHN M. ALDRICH, Mrs. JOHN M. ALDRICH, GEO. O. BRIGHAM, JONAS B. BRIGHAM, THOMAS BROWN, Miss SARAH D. BANCROFT, JOHN S. BRIGHAM, Miss SARAH M. BRIGHAM, LEWIS F. BALI,, JOHN BARNARD, Mrs. SARAH B. BARNARD, WM. H. BROWN, ELLEN S. BROWN, WM. J. BAIvER, M. A. BARTLETT, Miss P. A. BARNES, Mrs. SAPtAH A. BUCKLEY, WM. C. BARBOUR, Mrs. M. a. BARBOUR, Worcester. Templeton. Worcester. Westboro'. Worcester. li West Brookfield. Worcester. lb East Princeton. Worcester. Millbury. Worcester. 10 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. Miss M. JENNIE BARBOUE, Worcester. CHAS. A. BARBOUE, JAMES BEOADBENT, HENEY P. BAEBOUE. JOHN N. BANCEOFT, ELIAS T. BEMIS, Mrs. E. T. BEMIS, AZEO L. D. BUXTON, MAEY CONANT, Bane. Mrs. ELIZABETH S. CONNELL, Troj% N. Y. S. B. CORBIN, Worcester. JOSEPH CURTIS, MAEIA CUETIS, " E. W. CAETEE, Mrs. E. W. CAETEE, " Miss ANNIE E. CHILDS, LEMUEL COBUEN. " Mrs. LEMUEL COBUEN, " EDWAED I. COMINS, HENEY CLAPP, " Eev. ]ME. COBB, Northampton. Mrs. MAETHA W. CHAMBERLAIN, Worcester. Miss CARRIE M. CHAMBERLAIN, " JOSIAH CHILDS, Westboro'. JAMES CLELAND, Maiden. FRANK COEBIN, Worcester. THOS. W. DAVIS. " CHARLES DENNIS, " :MARY DENNIS, JOSEPH DAVIS, Mrs. J. DAVIS, THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 11 J. T. EVEEETT, Mrs. MARY A. EVERETT, Miss LIZZIE H. ELLIS, G. W. ELKIlSrS, JAIVIES N. ENGLEY. ARTHUR ESTABROOK, Miss LIZZE A. FLAGG. Miss REBECCA R. FAY, E. EUGENE FORBES, GEO. A FORBES, Mrs. M. ADELIA FORBES, ABRAHAM FAY, Mrs. ABIGAIL FAY, VVM. N. FIELD. HIRAM FOBES. THEO. N. GATES. Mrs. lizzie a. GATES, Miss ABBIE A. GODDARD, ORLANDO GODDARD. Miss KATIE E. GATES, braman grout, frederick goulding, Mrs. a. W. GRANT, GEORGE GEER. Mrs. HENRIETTA GEER, WM. A. GREENE, SAMUEL GRIFFIN, MARY A. GRIFFIN, C. H. GOODWIN, M. M. GARFIELD, Mrs. LUCY M. GARFIELD, East Princeton. Worcester. >i Leicester. "Worcester. Westboro'. West Brookfield. Northboro'. Worcester. Westboro'. Worcester. Leicester. Worcester. Charlestowa. Worcester. Shrewsbury. East Princeton. Worcester. 12 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. Miss NELLIE 11. GREENE, Shrewsbury, HENRY GLAZIER, Worcester. Mrs. MARIA H. GLAZIER, JALAAM GATES, WM. HUNT, Mrs. WM. HUNT, FREDERICK O. HARRINGTON, JOHN HILLARD, Mrs. ELIZA AV. HILLARD, FRANK E. HIGGINS. ARTHUR H. HOWLAND. S. A. HOWLAND. JOHN HOMAN. Westboro'. C. 8. HENRY, CHENEY HATCH. Leicester. Mrs. CHENEY HATCH, L. N. HOLTON, Worcester. Mrs. S. FRANCES HOLTON, GIDEON HARRIS. Mrs. SOPHIE R. HARRIS. Miss RUTH A. HOWLAND, N. C. HOWE. Mrs. N. C. HOAAT:. HENRY F. HARRIS, Oakdale. LINUS M. HARRIS. Mrs. ARMILLA E. HARRIS, WM. HARRINGTON, Worcester. F. G. HOOKER. EZRA B. HOLMES. SAMUEL D. HUBBARD, Holden. Mrs. E. C. HUBBARD, THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 13 ALBERT F. HATCH. Worcester. Mrs. SARAH R. HATCH, " FRAXK A. HATCH. HENRY H. HOLDER, Mu3. HENRY H. HOLDEN, THEO. S. HOBBS, ]\lK6. CLARA A. HOBBS, Mrs. J. HUNT. Vernon, Vt. Miss MARY HALL, Worcester. WM. HENVILLE, ISAAC JOHNSON, Sturbridge. Mrs. CHARLOTTE J. JOHNSON. CHARLES H. JACKSON, West Brookfield. Mrs. CHARLES H. JACKSON, HENRY J. KENDALL, W^orcester. Mrs. 3LARY J. KENDALL, WM. KNOWLES. Mrs. H. W. KNIGHTS, Orange. Mrs. E. M. KIMBALL. Worcester. ALBERT G. KENDALL. Miss EMMA S. R. KENDRICK, Mrs. LYDIA A. KINGMAN. " Miss ELDORA E. LORING, Leicester. Miss ABBIE L. LORING, BETSEY MIDGLEY, LowelL ALFRED C. MURRAY, Worcester. O. P. MAYNARD. West Brookfield. Mrs. M. L. MAYNARD, ALBERT H, MURDOCK. West Boylston. W.M. MECORNEY, Worcester. Mrs. R. L. MECORNEY, 14 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. WM. MOOKE, M. H. MIPJCK, Mrs. L. M. MIKICK, WALTEE MOORE, CHARLES MORSE. HENRY B. NOURSE, N. F. NEWELL, Mrs. N. F. NEWELL. CHARLES O. PARKER, Miss ELLA J. PRATT. C. H. PLERCE. Mrs. E. E. PARKER. ARTHUR D. PRATT, Mrs. D. F. PARKER. WM. D.PROUTY, Mrs. WM. D. PROUTY. Miss MARY E. PROUTY, Miss ALICE M. PROUTY, DEXTER H. PERRY, DEXTER N. PRATT, Miss SARAH F. PUTNAM. Miss LOUISA M. RICE, Miss HATTIE E. RICHARDS, JOHN RICHARDS, HENRY RICH. HENRY F. ROSS. Mrs. HATTIE E. RICH, THOMAS STOTT, Mrs. LEAH STOTT, ALBERT J. STONE, Mrs. BERT STONE, Northboro.' East Princeton. Worcester. Westboro'. Worcester. Westboro'. Worcester. Westboro'. W^orcester. West Brookfield. THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 15 GEORGE T. SCOTT, Mrs. ELIZABETH S. SCOTT, GEOKGE SESSIONS, Mrs. MARY J. SESSIONS, Miss MARY S. SESSIONS, DR. E. SCHOFIELD, E. SMITH. Jr.. Mrs. E. SMITH. Jr., Miss ESTELLA SMITH, H. A. STREETER. Mrs. H. A. STREETER. Mrs. almond STREETER, Miss MARY SHAW, P. H. SMITH. T. H. STODDARD, Miss HATTIE A. SMITH, Miss S. ANNIE STEVENS, Mrs. R. D. STEVENS, Mrs. SWAIM, S. D. TOURTELLOT. Mrs. LUCY TOURTELLOT, elias temple, Mrs. MARIA I. TAUNT. Miss EMMA E. UPHAM, C. N. WALKER. Mrs. lizzie L. WALKER, AMANDA L. WILCOX, SAMUEL WARREN, MARION E. WARREN, JAMES J. WARREN, Mrs. JAMES J. WARREN, Worcester. Millbury. Northampton. Worcester. Vernon, Vt. Oxford, Worcester. Uxbrido^e. Holden. Brimfield. 16 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. Miss FAXNY E. WARREX, Ik[rss ELLEX E. WARREN, Miss MARY W. WARREN, Master JOHN M. WARREN. C. WARREN, Mrs. SARAH A. WHITNEY, Miss KATE E. WHITE. Miss MARIA J. WAEREN, MissADDIE J. WARREN, SETH D. WILLIAMS, DELUCAR S. WILLIAMS, A. J. WARFIELD, Mrs. a. J. WARFIELD, Miss EMMA J. WOOD, GEORGE W. WAI0:FIELD, A G. WALKER. A. L. WILLISTON. HUGH A. WILLSON. CHAS. H. WOOD WELL, CLARENCE C. WHITE. CORBIN O. WOOD, Mrs. C. O. WOOD, Miss H. WINSLOW, LEWIS F. WHETE, GEO. W. WHEELER, Mrs. HARRIET S. WHEELER, Miss MARY G. B. WHEELER, Miss SARAH WILSON, Brim field. Leicester. Wiiiclieiulon. Leicester. Worcester, Northampton. West Boylston. Worcester. Leicester. Worcester. Maltlen. Charlton Depot. Worcester. ORIGIN OF THE EXCURSION. UKING the summer of ISGS. a part}- of worMi}^ citizens from the *" Heart of the Commonwealth," desiring to enjoy a season of recreation, organized themselves into an association bj' the choice of proper officers, and having chartered of Capt. VV. W. Coit. of IS^orwich, Ct.. the steamer bearing his name, they proceeded to said city August 3. and, taking possession of their " own hired boat," spent a few daj's in visiting Newport, Edgartown, New Bedford, etc. A further account of the trip may be found in a little volume of about the same size and style of this, entitled "'By Sea and Land." Early this season, members of the same part}', havin«- pleasant recollections of the good time of last year, called a meeting of the '' Coits." extending the invitation to others, the result of vyrhich was the organization of another party, retain- ing the old title "■ Coit Excursionists.'' As there was a prospect of a much larger party, it became necessary to obtain a more capacious steamer than the one used last year, and after due consideration, the *' City of New Lon- don''' was chartered of Julius Webb, agent of the Boston, Norwich and New York Transportation Company, for an eight days' trip, an account of which will be found in the succeeding pages, made up of an extended article which appeared » 2* 18 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. in the Westboro'' Chro7iotype, whose editor, C. H. Pierce, Esq., was a member of the party, and a series of letters which appeared in the Worcester Daily Spy over the initials W. M. Other matter was in the hands of your committee, but as it contains substantially the same facts, they did not think it would be advisable to publish it, neither did they feel at liberty to pass over the articles in the Evening Gazette, furnished that paper by the gentlemanly editor who was one of our party, without acknowledging their interest and worthiness of a place in this volume under other circumstances. CRUISE OF THE COITS, Originally published in the Westboro' Chronotype. .LTGITST 11—18, 1869, are eight brilliant red-letter days in many a book of remembrance. They mark the gi'and carnival of pleasure prosecuted by two hundred and sixty ladies and gentlemen of Worcester and vicinity, over a Avater trip of seven hundred miles, and tlu'ough eight cities. Much was anticipated from an excur- sion of such unusiTal proportions, but vastly more was real- ized. In fact, it proved the most successful affau- of the kind which has yet been projected in New England. The party was mainly made up of some of the best citizens of Worcester Coimty; not people of wealth and social position merely, but those whose heaits are in the right place, and who never for a moment forget the amenities of life. Throughout the trip, starch was at a discoiint, and all stood upon a common level, mingling 20 THE KIVER AND THE SOUND. freely together as a "happy family;" and, what is a rather unusual cii'cumstance, the Captain and one of the pilots joined unreservedly with the party wherever they landed, and at their evening entertainments. The Cap- tain pronounced it the most agi'eeable and orderly party he ever took out ; and one of the pilots emphatically as- sui'ed me that he did not believe the afiak could be beaten in any respect, and sincerely hoped to see us again next year. The train which took us from Worcester gave up four cars, with a baggage car, to our exclusive use. These furnished rather limited quarters, and a few " set-a-stand- ing," like the Dutchman's hen. We were not more than five minu^tes behind time in starting from Worcester, and reached Norwich at half past nine. The cars stopped within three or four rods of the pier ; and before ten o'clock we were all on board the " City of New London" a fine steamer of 1203 tons. The boat left the wharf at about ten o'clock, and the state-rooms were sold by auction immediately after. The sale was a lively competition throughout, prices being of little account to those with whom state-rooms were just then the things to be desked above all others. Forty-one rooms were sold at prices ranging from forty- THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 21 two and a half down to eleven and a half dollars, aggregating eight hundred and ninety dollars. This made an average of $21.71, — nearly three times as much as the average prices obtained last year, and very ma- terially reduced the general expenses of the tri]). Geo. O. Brigham, of Westboro", bought a room for $25, and after the sale, was offered $40 for it. Another gentleman told me that he paid $12 for one, and had been offered $27 to give it up. Tho^e who did not obtain state-rooms were afterwards provided with beiths by lot. The party was then separated by lot into tAvo di- visions, each to alternate with the other in taking the first table at meals, as only one hundred and thirty could be seated at once. From each division a certain number volunteered or were detailed to wait upon the other table during each day. The Commissary department was in excellent hands. Henry Glazier, of Worcester, was the steward, and soon got his feeding apparatus in good working order. The inaugural day of the trip proved a magnificent one, although in the morning it looked a little unprom- ising. A thin haze obscured the sun, and a fresh, de- lightful breeze was stirring during most of the day. The boat moved as steadily through the waters of the Sound 22 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. as a car upon tlie iron track, and not a soul on board had a thought of paying tribute to Old Neptune. At foui- o'clock in the afternoon, we entered the harbor of New Haven, and in due time had reached the city of many elms and much learning. Our party was soon on shore, intent upon seeing as many of the sights as the limited time would permit. A few of us visited Yale College grounds, and rendered a verdict then and there, that during the vacation of the students, (as was then the case,) there is nothing sp&cially attractive about the shades of academic groves and piles of brick a century old. We delayed leaving New Haven till midnight. By this arrangement an excellent opportunity was afforded the party to view all the objects of interest along the ap- proaches to New York city by daylight. The trip up the East River and harbor was made in the early sunlight of a delightful day, wliich seemed to invest with a peculiar attraction the objects of note along the route. Breakfast was entirely forgotten in the absorbing business of gazing at and commenting upon the forts, the institutions on Blackwell's Island, the public buildings at other points. Hurl Gate and the operations in progi-ess there for its removal, Jones' Wood, the Battery, and THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 23 the water fronts of New York and Brooklyn. We reached Pier 40 at nine o'clock on Thnrsday morning. The party now improved the few hom"S at command in such ways as seemed most desirable, — several of us visiting the far-famed Greenwood Cemetery, where over two hours were profitably spent in rambling through one of the most enchanting spots of consecrated gi-ound in this country. It far surpasses Mount Auburn, beautiful as that cemetery is, although in the way of lot enclosures Greenwood is much behind the latter, which has discarded iron fences, and has substituted hammered granite borders. The westerly entrance to the cemetery, which is ap- proached by a very wide avenue, is a magnificent archi- tectural structure in free-stone. The central portion, or carriage way, consists of two arches, over each of which, on each side, is a large and elaborately cut bas-relief, illustrating scriptural references to death and the resur- rection. To the right and left are entrances for visitors on foot, and lobbies furnished with nicely upholstered double chairs. In this cemetery is the famous monument to the memo- ry of Charlotte Cauda, who was killed on the seventeenth anniversary of her birth day. It was sculptured in Italy, in white marble. It is in the Gothic style, and in the 24 THE UIVER AND THE SOUND. central arch is a statue of Charlotte Canda. It cost 000, (the bulk of the fortune Miss Canda would have inherited,) and makes the smallest show for the money expended that I have ever seen in a structure of this character. The details are small and entirely fail to Y>ro- duce the eifect of a bolder and less elaborate style. 1 Avas informed that the remains of Miss Canda have been removed from this costly resting place to another in the city of Paris. Another monumental sti'ucture worthy of note, is a life- size statue of Captain Correga, in marble, standing upon a granite pedestal. The Caj)tain is rei)resented as dressed in citizen's garb, and wearing u])on his head an old fash- ioned hea\y topped fur cap. In his hands he holds a sextant, with which he is taking an observation. This statue was erected by the Captain himself, seventeen years before his death. The instrument he holds is the identical one used l)y him during his voyages, and was not placed in position till after his death. One of the chief objects of interest is the "Pilot's Monument," situated on nearly the highest point of land in the cemetery, and commanding a full and magniticent view of the bay of New York. The monument was erected by the New York City Government in perpetuation of THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. 25 the memory of a pilot Avho lost his life several years ago while in the discharge of his hazardous duties. Still another noticeable featm-e of this cemetery is the Firemen's Monument and sm-roundings. which are dedi- cated to the memory of the brave men who have sacrificed then- lives in the discharge of their duty as firemen. The monument was erected by the Fu-e Department of the city of New York. The style now somewhat in vogue here in the erection of family vaults, is to have them in two divisions, — a vestibule, and a series of sej^ulchral niches. The vestibule is reached tlu'ough a door of open u'on-work more or less ornamental. Opposite the door the wall of the vestibule is in panels of polished marble, nearly square, somewhat resembling a series of di-awers, minus the handles. Each of these panels can be removed, and forms the head of a receptacle for a single coffin, which being deposited, the head or panel is sealed into its place, and the inscription placed upon it. Through the open-work of the door the passer-by can easily read all of these inscriptions. Some- times vases of flowers ai"e kept upon stands in the centre of the vestibule, and in one of them I saw a stand and two chahs, and on the former a work basket and contents. Niblo,, of theatrical fame, has recently erected a vault on 3 26 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. this plan, one of the most noticeable in the cemetery. The remains of his wife are there deposited, and on the panel which marks her resting place are the followng pathetic lines : All that's beautiful in woman, All we in her nature love, All that's good in all that's human, Passed this gate to God above. Several of the recently erected monuments are of granite with highly polished tablets, on which the inscriptions are cut. The polishing of the granite darkens the surface, and the contrast between this and the letters cut through it renders the inscriptions legible from any point of view. One very lai'ge monument has its enthe smi'ace polished, and is really one of the most impressive objects in the gi'ounds. It is altogether impossible to \nsit in two hours one half that is worth seeing in the four hundi'ed and more acres of Greenwood Cemetery, or to give anything like an approach to a description of it in a newspaper article. A day might be spent in noting, and a book like this filled in describing, the many objects of interest within its limits. In going to and retm-ning from Greenwood Cemeteiy, our party visited that mammoth sink of filth and wretch- THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 27 ediiess, the Fulton Market. The stalls are unfit for Massa- chusetts hog pens, and the hucksters who occupy them ai"e diity and saucy. If, as the good Book intimates, there is any connection between cleanliness and godliness, one can not wonder at the depraved condition of the great city, after seeing this insuiferable nuisance in its midst. Of course no one goes to New York now without seeing Central Park ; but most of om* party postponed then- \4sit to that place till theii' return to the city on Satm-day. At about four o'clock on the afternoon of Thm'sday we swung out from the pier, and commenced om* royal trip up the Hudson River — the Rhine of America — whose le- gendary, historical and literary associations render doubly enchanting the grand and beautiful scenery along its banks. The great city stretches along the eastern shore for miles above our starting point ; and on the opposite side lie Jersey City, Hoboken and Weehawken. Between the latter two places are the " Elj'sian Fields," a popular Sunday resort of the Germans, where music, dancing and lager beer prevail. Weehawken is noted as the scene of the fatal duel between Hamilton and Bm-r. And now for miles and miles along the jiictm-esque hights to the right appears an almost continuous succession 28 THE rilVER AND THE SOUND. of stately mansions, with beautifnl lawns, parks, gardens and conservatories. Here and there, too, are lovely sub urban Adllages and thriving towns. Among the points of special interest in .this section of the panorama, are the N. Y. Lunatic Asylum ; the house in which the Earl of Devon lived; the house occupied by Joseph Bonaparte while an exile in this country ; that in which Audubon, the celebrated Naturalist, lived and died ; the N. Y. Deaf and Dumb Institute ; The site of Fort Washington ; the Roman Catholic Convent and Academy of Mount St. Vincent ; the castellated mansion built, but never occupied, by Edwin Forrest ; Yonkers, the home of Mary Phillips, who might have wedded Washington had she been "will- in' ; " the point from which Cornwallis crossed the river in 1776 to captm'e Fort Lee ; Dobb's Ferry, noted in Revolutionary history as a place for the concentration and encampment of troops — both British and American ; and where a British commission landed to intercede for the life of Maj. Andre. But while we have all this to charm and interest us on the right, we have on the opposite shore that wonder- ful formation, the Palisades, whose precipitous fronts of traprock rise like giant sentinels from three hundred to five hundi'ed feet in air, presenting one of the gi'andest THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. ,29 pictures of American scenery. They commence ten miles above om* starting point, and continue more or less ab- ruptly about fifteen miles. We aj'e now opposite Irvington, twenty-five miles from New York ; and there, just north of the \allage, are the picturesque house and snrroundings which constitute the world-renowned " Sunny Side," once the home of Wash- ington Irving. Three miles farther on is Tarrytown, where stands in full view, overlooking the river, the "Paulding manor," built of white marble, and pronoimced one ot the finest specimens of Elizabethan architecture in this country. Just above us is the valley of " Sleepy Hollow," immortalized by Irving. Three miles above Tarrytown is the well known Sing Sing State Prison. The buildings are quite extensive and stand close to the water's edge. They are built of white marble, quarried in the vicinity — a material not commonly used in resi- dences of this character. Opposite Sing Sing is Rockland Lake, from which 200,000 tons of ice are annually cut for the New York market. The shades of evening have now settled down around us, and the balance of the trip to West Point is made by starlight. It is a warm, still, clear night ; and the scenery through which we so quietly glide, instead of charming us 3* 30 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. as before witli its details, now becomes impressive in its shadowy indistinctness. Four miles above Sing Sing we pass Croton Point, off which the Vulture anchored when she brought Andre to meet Arnold, and where a gun was trained upon that vessel, and di'ove it down the river. Two miles more take us to Stony Point, a bold, rocky eminence, crowned by a light house, on the west side of the river. Here the stream is only half a mile wide, which fact, together with the commanding positions afforded by the neighbor- ing hills, rendered this an important pass during the Rev- olution. Fortifications were erected here and at Ver- planck Point opposite, and were the scenes of some hard fought battles. Very near Stony Point is "Treason Hill," and the house in which Andre and Arnold met and arranged the details for the surrender of West Point. Just above Stony Point, on the same side of the river, a lofty limestone cliff arises from near the water's edge ; and at the foot of the cliff are the "Tomkins Lime Kilns," looking like a stone fortress. AYe come now into the grandeur of a night scene upon the Hudson. After passing Stony Point, the river is narrow all the way to West Point, and soon the ma_iestic Highlands begin. On either side are lofty THE EIVEK AND THE SOUND. 31 peaks and rocky crags, which in the uncertain starlight seem to overhang the river within easy stone's throw of the spectator. Among these, on the left, is the long, ridge-like elevation, known as the " Donderberg," or Thimder Mountain, 1,000 feet high, and on the right is "Anthony's Nose," over 1,200 feet high. The former, ac- cording to a superstition recorded by Irving, was once peo- pled with a crowd of little imps in sugar loaf hats and short doublets, who " tumbled head over heels in the rack and mist," and brought down frightful squalls on such craft as failed to drop the peaks of their mainsails in salute to the Dutch goblin who kept the Donderberg. On the rocky liights opposite Anthony's Nose, stood forts Clinton and Montgomery, during the Revolution, and across the river was stretched a heavy boom, — a huge iron chain, on tim- ber floats, — to prevent the upward passage of British vessels. In 1777 Sir Henry Clinton captured these forts and destroyed the boom. On a commanding hight on the west side of the river is Cozzens' Hotel, brilliant with hundreds of lighted windows ; and just above, and within a mile of West Point Landing, is the pier where, at nine o'clock, we made fast for the night. At eight o'clock on Friday morning we cast off from 32 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. the pier, and moved up to West Point Landing. A messenger had been sent forward with a request to per- mit our party to land and ^dsit the grounds ; but he at first received a flat refusal, in conformity to a rule adopted as a protection against the New York roughs and loose women whose visits had become a nuisance. On being informed, however, that we represented the. eminent gi'avity of Massachusetts, and had got West Point on the brain, the commanding officer at once granted our request. The United States Militaiy Academy buildings and grounds occupy an area of about fifty acres, on a plateau 160 to 180 feet above the river. This j^lateau, or the » noilheasterly corner of it, forms a j^rojecting point, around which the river makes a shoi't turn to the left, and then resumes its southerly course ; and being on the west side of the river its very appropriate name is West Point. The grounds are reached from the landing by a steep road cut in the rocky hillside. On the smooth, perpendic- ular face of this cut, appears "Bunker Hill, 1775," in deeply sunk letters nearly four feet high. It rather looked to us hke an attempt, on the part of New York, to steal Massachusetts thunder. To my mind, the most beautiful and interesting por- THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 33 tiou of the Hudson river is that which may be seen at . one sweep of the eye about West Point, and for nine miles dii'ectly up the river. These \'iews from the north- erly extremity of the plateau contain as much of gTandeur aud historic interest as I expect ever to find in one land- scape ; and they well repaid me — and many others, I believe — -for the entu'e expense of the trip. Before us is the river, with its smoothly gliding craft, its romantic islands and its wnding shore beyond. To the north are the Highlands in all then' glory, and between them stretches the river away to Newbm'gh, indistinctly seen at a distance of nine miles. At the northeast angle of the jjlateau, fully commanding this pass, is Fort Clinton, an earth- work thrown up in 1778, and on the extreme point is Roe's Hotel. Opposite the angle is Constitution Island, which was heavily fortified during the revolution ; and remains of its old batteries may still be seen. A boom was also tlu-own across the river, between the island and the Point, consisting of an immense chain bu')yed up on logs, each link of the chain weighing 120 lbs. A portion of the chain is still preserved here, and we after- wards saw three links of it at the Redwood Library in Newport. To the west rises, as a back-ground. Mount Indepeud- 34 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. ence, fur up whose rough i^recipitous side — nearly 600 feet above the river — stand the gray ruins of Fort Putnam ; and at tlie base of the mountain, and looking ouf upon the Academy grounds through groves of shade trees, are the residences of the officers. At the southerly side of the plateau, and at right angles with the river, is the range of Academy buildings, attractive in their archi- tecture and surroundings. The westerly half of the area thus enclosed is somewhat rolling, and is intersected with Avalks and dotted M-ith fine shade trees. The easterly portion is the parade ground, and is about as level as a floor. Among the objects of interest are the monument and garden of Kosciusko ; and the monumental statue of Major General Sedgwick, who fell at Spottsylvania, and for whom the Grand Army post in Westboro' is named. The statue is in bronze, standing on a gi'anite pedestal, and represents the General in full military dress and attitude. In a grove of elms are several trophy guns, which were captured during the revolution, the war of 1812-15, the Mexican war, and the late rebellion. The whole neighborhood abounds with interesting mili- tary associations. Here it was that in 1780, Benedict Ai-nold, of hated memory, assumed command, and soon THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 35 after sought to betray his trust. On the opposite sliore is the house he occupied as headquarters, and where he received the news of Andi-e's captm-e. Xear it, in the bank of the river, is a little cove, whence Arnold started in his hasty flight to the Vulture, which lay below, leaving his wife to entertain the unsuspecting Washington. Here were educated many traitors of our own time — among them Robert E. Lee, Beam-egard, the two Johnsons and others ; but here, too, Avere trained up for the future salvation of the Republic, brave and taithful officers like Grant, Sherman, Sheridan and many others. There are about 250 cadets here now, and then- educa- tion costs the government five thousand dollars each. They were in camp when we were there, as they always are during the months of July and Augnist. Shortly after our arrival there was an artillery diill and practice-firing by the famous Reno Battery. Firing during the evolutions had been omitted for about a fort- night, but was practised to-day for our sj^ecial entertain- ment. The precision Avith which the various movements of this battery are performed by both men and horses, is something remarkable, the latter seeming to understand the bugle calls by which the orders are gi-s-en, fully as well as the men. 36 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. There was also some target fii-ing from the water bat- tery north of the Point. The tai'get was stationed across the bend in the river, and the balls could be distinctly seen to strike in the bank behind it. Each discharge of the gun was followed by one of the most singular echoes mortal man ever heard. It is caused by the hights and valleys which skirt the river above, and sounds very nuich like rip-rip-rip-rip, a dozen times sharply and quickly repeated. At ten o'clock we returned to the boat, and proceeded on our upward trip. After passing the double bend in the river, forming the Point, we came into the heart of the Highlands, which rise abruptly on either side, from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet in hight. Among the tallest of these peaks are Cro'-Nest, the Storm King, Mount Taurus, Butter Hill and Break-Neck Hill. On the northerly slope of the Storm King is "Idlewild," the home of the late N. P. Willis. We made no stops after leaving West Point, till we reached the city of Hudson, the farthest point of our trip, at half-past four o'clock p. m. The arrival at Hudson of such an expedition as om-s, came very near astonishing the natives. In an extended notice of the event the Hudson Star of the next morning THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 37 spoke of "the large and beautiful Sound steamer, City of New London, which made its unexpected appearance in the channel opposite the city yesterday afternoon, creating quite an excitement ; for never before in our remembrance has a vessel of this class landed at our docks or passed up the river." We had between three and four hours to spend in Hudson, and neai'ly all of our party improved the time in looking about the place. Most of us walked, but Capt. G. H. Power, a prominent citizen, hastily mustered two or three carriages and placed them at the disposal of as many of om- party as they would accommodate. The officers of om* expedition were assm'ed by the Mayor of the city, that had he known of our coming we should have had a reception worthy of the occasion. Hudson is a quaint old Dutch town, (or ''city,") 115 miles from New York. It was named after Hendiick Hudson, who discovered the noble river on which it stands, and who supposed, till after he passed this point, that he had found the long-sought " Northwest Passage" to India. It was incorporated as a city eighty-fom* years ago, and there are but fom' charters in the State which ante-date it. The population stands at about 8,000, and there it has probably stood for the last fifty years. It is 4 38 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. only a few miles from the traditional scene of Rij") Van Winkle's long nap ; and it seems as though the same sleepy spell had brooded over the city ever since. Of the churches here, two are very fine and nearly new, one being of freestone, and one of pressed brick ; but most of the buildings have an ancient, dull look ; on the principal business street, as elsewhere, they are mainly two-story wooden structures. The only hotel I saw looked very like an unpretentioits country tavern ; and one bar- ber's shop and one three-cent news stand, were the reward of my long search for those land-marks of ci\dli- zation. Just north of the landing is a blufi'neai'ly 100 feet above the river ; and on its summit is a j:)ublic square and ])rom- enade, handsomely laid out and ornamented with trees and shrubbery. From this look-out Ave had a charming ^dew of the river below, and of the country along the opposite shore, with the pictm-esque Catskill Mountains as a back- ground. A portion of the city rises to a still greater hight than this plateau. At about sunset the steamer SAVung off into the channel and om- homeward trip commenced. As we moved away we made the hills echo with cheers for the city, and for Capt. Power and others, Avhich were responded to by the THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. 39 ' crowds on the Av^harves and Promenade Hill, with steam whistle accompaniments from the workshops and locomo- tives near the river. A party of boys who were preparing to bathe in one of the docks, hastily completed the dis- robmg process, and joined in the general commotion by swinging their shirts aloft and dancing and yelling with desperate energy. The Star says, in concluding the article before refeiTed to : " The whole affair was of so pleasant a chai-acter that it will be long remembered by those who had the pleasm-e of being spectators." After a delightful moonlight ride of fom* hom-s, we reached the wharf at Poughkeepsie and made fast for the night. Dming this passage, many of the party passed the time on the decks in singing snatches of songs, and in conversation and games, while others made themselves comfortable in the cabin below, ^^Ath cards, stories and the piano. Soon after daylight Saturday morning, we took a stroll about town. Unlike Hudson, Poughkeepsie is a wide-awake, thriving place. It has been incorporated as a city but fifteen years ; yet the population is more than twice that of Hudson. The bulk of the city is built on a table land 150 to 200 40 THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. feet above the river, with a slope more or less steep to the river bank. Next the river the streets are duty and un- attractive, but as they go back to higher ground they rapidly improve. Many of them are ornamented with fine shade trees. I passed through two or three streets, the caiTiage-ways of which were completely over-arched by double rows of tulij) poplars. Here are some of the finest mansions in the State, and the extensive grounds surrounding them are thrown open to the public. Several important manufacturing establishments are lo- cated here — one of them the famous Vassar Brewery. Vassar is dead, but his name will be perpetuated by the extensive female college, standing in the easterly part of the city, and which Avas founded and endowed by his munificent liberality. There are other noted educational institutions here, among them Eastman's Commercial College, one depait- ment of which a few of us visited, and saw some of the largest pen di*awings ever executed. South of the city is the residence of S. F. B. Morse, the inventor of the telegi-aph. At eight o'clock, having taken in a fresh supply of milk and green corn, in exchange for three or four delinquent THE ei\t:r axd the sound. 41 members of om* company, we left Poughkeepsie, and in two hom'S reached the charming little city of Newbnrgh, on the west side of the river. The gi'eat centre of attraction at Newburojh is an old stone house which Washington occiipied as liis head- quarters dm-ing the latter part of the revolution ; and we visited it in full force. The property is owned and kept in order by the State of Xew York. The house stands on a lofty teiTace, facing the river, of which there is an un- obsti-ucted xiew. Cannon are i)lanted on the lawn in front, and near by is a flag-staff, and a brownstone monument in memory of Uzall Knapp, the last of Washington's Life Guards. One of the rooms of this venerable building was used by Washington for the transaction of business ; here he issued his proclamation for the cessation of hostilities, March 19th, 1783; and here, on the thu-d of November following, he disbanded the American army. In the cen- tre of a room is a stick of timber pointed ^\dth u-on, which was part of a cheveaux de /rise sunk in the river in 1780, to prevent the passage of British war sloops; here, too, are antique guns of monstrous length, swords, knap- sacks, saddles, wooden canteens, an old battle flag, conti- 4* 42 THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. nental di-esses ; and a cocked hat worn by Robert Waugh fi-om 1760 to 1816. In another room is a case containing a collection of old books, continental money, powder horns, part of a musket used and broken at Bunker Hill, and many other articles. Hanging against the wall is a Hessian officer's boot of o o o cm-ious proportions — the length of leg being 14 inches, its cu'cumference, both at top and ankle, 21;| inches, and bottom of heel 4f inches across. Near it hangs a captm-ed scarf of Santa Anna. Here, too, under the old fashioned, enormous stone chimney, hangs an ancient tea Jiettle, which once did duty for the Father of his Country. In the thii'd room is a lock of Washington's hau* and a piece of his coffin, his military orders, proclamations, rolls, and other documents ; also, an ancient sofa, and the piano of Gen. Clinton, the first ever brought into Orange County. Those of oiu' j^arty who were left behind at Poughkeep- sie here rejoined us, and we proceeded on our way to New York, arriving there at five o'clock p. m. No Puritanical scniples concerning Satm-day night amusements hamper the New York conscience, and the theatres are in full blast on that evening. Being among the THE EIVEE AND THE SOUND. 43 Romans, nearly 150 of us ventiu-ed to do as the Romans do, and "went in." We visited Booth's new theatre, whose imposing exterior of hammered New England gi-an-. ite is eclipsed by its gorgeous interior finish, decorations and upholstery. It is a Dramatic Palace, and probably has no superior in this country. The play was "Rip Van Winkle," — an appropriate finale to om' Hudson River trip. It was having a great " run " at the time we were there, Tvith Joseph Jefferson as the principal chai'acter. It was specially written for him by Bom'cicault ; and his consummate impersonation of the easy, good-natured, good-for-nothing Dutchman, must fully realize the author's conception of the character. Says a critic: "From first to last he portrays, with exquisite touches of humor and pathos, a character which is un- fortunately too familiar to us in the common walks of life ; and succeeds in showing the truly human elements of a tender, loving nature vmder all the squalor, debasement and wretchedness of a dissipated career." No other actor attempts this version of the legend, as indeed no other can, the play being controlled by copy-right. Sunday in New York! Its sights and sounds are enough to set a straight-laced Massachusetts man's teeth 44 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. on edge. Before our somewhat late breakfast was over, well filled excui'sion steamers were sailing gaily past ns, bound for Hoboken, the Elysian Fields, Coney Island and other Sunday resorts. Then* passengers, I should judge, were not particularly eminent for piety. Bands of music were on board, and on the upper deck of one of the boats were several cotillon sets in full swing, under the inspka- tion of some excellent but rather profane music. Religious ser\ices Avere held on oiu- steamer day and evening, which were well attended ; but many of om* party thought then- opportunity for seeing Sodom in its Sunday clothes, ought to be improved, and governed themselves accordingly. Here and there, in convenient places, a game of base ball or some other equally devotional exercise was in progress ; di'inking saloons and Jew clothing shops were di'i\dng a thi'ifty business; and in some sections of the city fruit stands were almost as frequent as the street corners. Dming the afternoon and evening a large majority of our party visited Central Park, the great popular Sunday resort of both citizens and strangers ; and no better invest- ment of time or money can be made by sight-seers than in riding Over its broad, smooth, winding avenues, strolling THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 45 through its cozy, retired walks, or inspecting its costly and elaborate works of art, princijjal among which are th^ Bi'idges and Terrace. The park is two and a half miles long and half a mile wide, and contains 862 acres, nearly one foui-th of which is water. The two reservou-s contain 142 acres, and the Lake, one of the most attractive featm'es of the landscape, contains twenty acres. There are nine and a half miles of carriage roads, five and a half miles of bridle roads and twenty-seven mUes of walks. Here at least the banditti horde, known as hackmen, who prey upon the public with their swindling charges, are kept at bay. Caniages owned and run by the city, and capable of seating twelve persons, make regular' trips around the Park. It requires about an hour and a half to complete the circuit, and the veiy reasonable fare is twenty-five cents. If the diiver is loquacious, as om's was, he will call attention to points of special interest. At the upper end of the Park we had a ^-iew of the celebrated High Bridge at Harlem. The City also provides boats at the Lake, which wUl take you the cu'cuit of its romantic, winding shore for ten cents. On our trij) we passed several bridges, under one of which the oarsman srave the aninwale of the boat a 46 THE TJIYER AND THE SOUKD. smart rap witli his oar, and the echo sounded like the re- port of a pistol. Opposite the Park, at the corner of Seventh Avenue and Fifty-ninth street, is the " Central Park Garden," con- sisting of a large concert hall, from which a dainking saloon opens on one side, a smoking room on the other, and a " Garden " in the rear. The garden is of somewhat limited area, and contains a fountain, a little shi'ubbery, two tiers of stalls, and some tables and chairs. Concerts of instrumental music are given here eveiy evening of the week, and on Simday afternoon, by Theodore Thomas's umivalled band ; and the delightful strains can be listened to in the hall, or from the garden. The hall is also pro- vided mth tables ; and the bibulously inclined can have theu' brandy and a straw, or a whisky straight, brought to them either in the hall or the garden, by one of the waiters in attendance. This way of spending Sunday would not be Avarmly encom-aged in Westboro', but in New York they think differently. We left New York at midnight, bound for Newport. Our route lay outside of Block Island, and early in the forenoon the long roll of the sea, "right from Em-ope," was reached. Trouble now commenced ; and for awhile the rebellious stomachs of about one half the party had it all THE RIVER AJ^D THE SOUND. 47 their OAvn way. Some of the \Hctims spitefully pitched theu- recent breaktasts overboard, while others only laid back and looked unutterable things. After two or three hoiu's of this " sport," — (it ?ras sport to some of us,) — we came to smoother Avater, and all on board enjoyed a lovely sail up NeAV|>ort harbor. As we passed Lime Rock, the home of the heroine, Ida Lewis, that famous lady made her appearance, and waved a welcome with her handkerchief Of course we rej^lied as gallantly as we knew how. At half past two in the afternoon we reached the wharf. A large number of om* party immediately chartered some sail boats, (which generally lay at the wharf, waiting for such jobs,) and hastened off to Lime Rock to pay theu- respects to Ida Lewis. The " Rock," which rises out of the water in the south- erly part of the harbor, is a very small afiair. The only dwelling upon it, — and in fact the only one for which there is any room, — is that which Ida's father occupies ; and tliis constitutes a portion of the "light-house," of which he is the keeper. It was fi'om this rock that the heroine put off in her boat to the rescue of drowning men — eleven in all, on five different occasions : the first being about ten years ago, 48 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. when she was eighteen years old, and the last in March of this year. Near the landing is a boat-house, overhanging the water, in which is kept the boat built for and presented to Miss Ida as a testimonial to her heroism. The boat is an elegant affau", and " they say " its owner can handle the oars mth gi'ace and ^am. Ida has an eye to business, by keeping on hand a supply of photogi'aphs, of which we each bought a coj^y ; and some who received a piece of scrip from Ida's hand, in change, tucked it carefully away, as a more valuable keep- sake than the picture. Many also picked up and brought away fragments of stone with which the rock is strewn. Before retm-ning to the steamer, we were taken over to Fort Adams. This is one of largest fortifications in Uncle Samuel's dommions, and mounts some very heavy guns. It is connected by a subterranean passage with a redoubt in the reai', so that in case of necessity the gar- rison can make a safe retreat and blow up the fort. Some of our party traversed this passage, which has to be done in a stooping posture. On coming out of the fort we passed the guard house, where a victim of mili- tary despotism was pining behind a grated door. How we pitied that poor fellow ! but we were powerless to help THE ri\t:r and the sound. 49 him, and could only shake our fists m indignation at the TJ. S. Government for this imdeserved treatment of one of its faithful defenders. I say "undeserved," because we had it from the victim's own lips that he "hadn't done nothing." Newport is noted chiefly as a resort of fashion during the "heated term." There are some fine hotels here, besides private cottages, at which this class of patrons is supplied with all the luxmies of refinement and wealth. The principal hotels are the Ocean and Atlantic Houses, on Belle\'ue Avenue. The former is of magnificent pro- portions, with a broad and lofty portico, in which the " ton " delight to lounge. Du-ectly in front of this por- tico is a showy band stand, which is occupied every pleasant afternoon, during the season, by first-class musi- cians. We had the good luck to liear Gilmore's band, led by Arbuckle. The great attraction at Newport is Bellevue Avenue, which is lined ^\ith elegant residences, and in the latter part of the afternoon swarms wdth " tourn-outs " of every description, from the majestic family carriage drawn by " four-in-hand," bedizened with trimmings, and attended by liveried lackeys, down to the smallest basket phaeton, more or less nobby in style. The coachmen and footmen of 5 50 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. all these tourn-outs sit bolt upright ; the latter with folded arms, as dignified as Julius Caesar, especially if they happen to belong to the African persuasion. A new road has been built along by the beach, in continuation of the Avenue, which makes a very excellent and attract- ive drive. Six dollars gave five of us a ride over this Avenue and back, and we saw that worth of the elephant. Among the other features of interest in this city, are the Beach, almost as hard and smooth as a floor ; the old Stone Mill, so called, an odd-looking structure in Touro Park, whose origin and use are a mystery ; the statue of Commodore Perry ; the Jewish Cemetery, with its massive stone gateway ; the Redwood Library, and the State House. On Tuesday afternoon we steamed down to Rocky Point for a clam-bake ; but as no provision had been made for such a crowd, some of us do not know to this day what a baked clam tastes like. We had a fine trip, though, and enjoyed the romantic smToundiugs of the Point much. Om- last evening on the boat, as we laid at the wharf, was spent in a most social and agi-eeable manner. One of the featm-es was the introduction of a new variety of pears — a pair of black babies, — in a nicely covered basket. During the evening, several complimentaiy reso- lutions were passed, and an original hymn was read and THE EIVEE AND TILE SOUND. 51 sung, all which are published in another part of this book. At midnight we sailed for New London ; and after looking that place over an hour or two, proceeded to Nor- wich, reaching the wharf in one hour short of seven days from the time we left it outward bound. As we passed uj) the river an old lady stood at her door, and swung her liege lord's nether garment as a "welcome home." Before landing we gave a series of blow-out cheers for the Grand Carnival of Pleasure and everybody and eveiy- thing connected with it. C. H. Pierce. LETTERS Originally published in the Worcester Daily Spy. Steamer "City of Xew London," Neio Haven, August 11, 1869. E promised the friends we left behind that they '^0^ should hear from us through the medium of the Spy. We took an early start this morning from your, our, dear old city, and made the trip by rail to Norwich, on time. Our friend Turner, the agent, had made ample accommodations for the party, and was attentive to our wants until we had passed into the hands of the faithful conductor of the train. We reached our steamer about nine a. m., and found all things in readiness for us, with the officers on board ready to receive us, and make our trip pleasant. We found the steamer in excellent condition ; we could ask for nothing more satisfactory^ We have plenty of room, although our company is what would be called large for an eightr-day excm'sion trip. We number over THE RIVEK AND THE SOUISTD. 53 two hundred and sixty; and have come to the con- clusion that we have a first-rate company. We have over sixty persons outside of the city of Worcester, representing the towns of Northampton, Northboro', Holden, Charlton, Uxbridge, West Boylston, Leices- ter, Whitinsville, Millbury, West Brookfield, etc. The oldest man among the company is Cheney Hatch, of Leicester, the quarter-of-a-centuiy cashier of Leicester Bank. The youngest man, I should think froni appear- ance, is G. W. Wheeler, our city treasurer. At any rate I should judge that most of the company were living over their you.ng days. If one day's trip on the salt water has such a renovating effect, I know not what may be expected when the eight days are up. We certainly have a good natured company. The trip on the steamer to this place was truly delightful. We all enjoyed it very much, and not a "sea-sick" soul could be found among the company. We reached the delightful " City of Elms" about five this afternoon. Of course we all must take a look at the place, to admu-e its beauty. There is no particular event worth recoi-ding, except the immense excitement caused by the sale at auction of our state-rooms. The crowd around our auctioneer, Glazier, was immense. We could not realize that money 54 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. was so plenty and business so brisk, after leaving Wor- cester so lately. The "bridal chamber " was first offered. It brought the small sum oY $40. Although there were several lately married couples present, the room was taken by one of our Worcester friends who had the matrimo- nial knot tied years ago. The last room sold brought $42.50. The lucky buyer was from Northampton. We realized about $1,000 from state-rooms. We defy the great Erie railroad Fisk to beat this. He has found a rival this time. Now, dear friends at home, we a\H11 close by saying to you that we are all right, and hope to go ahead as well as we have begun. We stay here over night, and to-morrow morning we expect to wake up in New York city, to have a look at the Park and other wonderful sights of that heated city. You shall hear from us daily, if the Spy is willing. THE KIVER AND THE SOUND. 55 West Point, N. Y., August 13. I HE steamer City of Neio London has reached this place Avith the " Coit Excursionists " all right. We prolonged our stay S,t New Haven somewhat, and concluded to give Bridgeport the go by in order to reach New York city early Thursday morning. It was the fii'st trip of many of our party to this noted city, strange as it may seem to hundi'eds of your readers who make fi'equent visits to Gotham during the year. We arrived in New York at nine a. m. on the 12th inst., and, notwithstanding the scorching atmos- phere, landed and proceeded in force to Central Park. We "did" the park thoi-oughly, and, as far as mem- bers are concerned, the heart of your old Commonwealth was never better represented there before. We retm-ned to the steamer at four p. m., laden with peaches and ready for our trip up the Hudson. New York is flooded mth peaches, — larger, finer, superior eveiyway to the things that ai'e sold for peaches in Worcester, and they are very much cheaper, too. Genuine peaches, luscious and beautiful, were selling at 75 cents and $1.00 per bushel. Om' sail up the Hudson river was delightful. I will 56 THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. not attempt a description of the magnificent scenery. Hundi-ecls have attempted to do so, but all have failed to do the subject justice. Those of our party who have made this trip before, found the Hudson river scenery more beautiful than ever before. Those who are here for the first time wonder why all Worces- ter does not hasten to New York to make this charm- ing voyage. We had intended to tarry one night at West Point, but the authorities here who have been much annoyed by excursion parties, in the past, have put a stop to such visitations, and now refuse to allow any excursion boats or parties to land at their Avharf. The commander, however, consented to let us take a view of the premises. I need not attempt to give a description of the place, or what "Uncle Sam" is doing here to train the young "how to shoot." Every one understands the matter better than I do. Suffice it to say, that a more delightful or appropriate place for the mili- tary academy could not have been found. Our whole party came to the conclusion, after a visit to this place, that it was worth the whole trip to have seen AVest Point and view the scenery, and witness the di-ess pa- rade of the cadets. We think they excel even our State Guard in military evolutions. We stopped but a THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 57 few hours, having previously landed for the night about two miles below here. We found Hudson a very pretty place. It contains about 8,000 inhabitants, who appeared to regi-et very much that they had not been informed that we were to pay them a visit; they desu-ed to give us a pub- lic reception. One generous and public spirited man, named George H. Power, came aboard as soon as we touched the landing place, and, though a stranger to all of us, furnished us which two carriages in which to ride about the place. We spent the next night at Poughkeepsie, before leaving which place we bought •some cans of milk and a cart load of gi-een corn. As we have two doctors on board, our friends at home deed not be alarmed. Our rations, under the direction of friend Glazier, our steward, are ample in quality and quantity. We are living high, and sleeping all ai'ound. Our evenings are among the happiest of our hom*s. We are rich in musical talent, and, have also a gi'eat variety of speakmg talent. Then of course we have some harmless amusements for the young. On the whole, we think we have made a decided mij^rovement on last year's trip. In fact, we are already contemplating 58 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. an excursion, next yeai*, to Europe! Our experience will give us advantage over "gi-een hands! " I have no cases of " sea sickness " to report as yet ; but next Monday night, look out for this part of the progi'amme. At that time we shall probably have passed Point Judith, on our way to NeAV^Dort. By the way, in the list of towns represented in the "Coit Exciu'sion," Westboro' should not have been left out. There are eleven from that place, who have be haved, so far, exceedingly well, and could not be spared from the party. w. m. On board "City of New London," New York, August 14, 1869. E left Poughkeepsie this forenoon about eight iw/%5:^ o'clock; we found the place quite a thi'iving city; there are many places of note, all of which your readers are familiar with ; therefore I make no attempt at description of what we saw there. Perhaps I ought to mention Vassar college; many of om* party paid a visit to this celebrated place ; they describe it as very beau- THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. 59 tiful and extensive. I only saw the lager beer brewery where the money was made that bnilt the college. The brewery is certainly very extensive, and I should judge that about as much misery might come from this brew- ery as good would come from the college. Perhaps the man's conscience is very much eased by the fact that although he may get his money in a mean way, he is giving it for good purposes; iu other words, attempting to seiwe God and the devil at one and the same time. Perhaps I may be wandering from my subject, which is an attemj^t to give a description of om* journey from place to place, as well as incidents of travel. We stopped for about two hom-s this forenoon at Newburgh, a very interesting place about sixty miles from New York city. Om* j^arty visited what was once the head- quarters of General Washington. The building is sit- uated on a high point of land, commanding a beautiful view of the Hudson and the sceneiy smToimding it. Here in this venerable building is found much that would mterest the historian as well as the lover of the "father of his country," the beloved Washington. It was here that Washington proclaimed the cessation of hostilities, March 19th, 1783, and disbanded the American army November 3d, 1783. Here are foimd 60 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. Washington's chaii-, ■s\Titten orders to his army, a lock of his hail*, a piece of his coffin, his looking-glass, — in fact, a great vaiiety of articles which doubtless once belonged to him. We came back to our steamboat, feeling that we had added another link to the chain of memory that makes this trip one of the most pleas- ant occasions of om* history. We made no other landing on the Hudson. We are all delighted with the trip on the river. All agi'ee that Ave could not have selected any other route that would have pleased us all so well as this. It is a fortunate atfau* that the committee of arrangements have been so fortunate as to please a company of two hundred and sixty or more peojile. We arrived at pier No. 40, New York city, at five o'clock this afternoon; here we expect to have our steamer "made fast" until Monday morning, at which time we start for Newport. Our company scattered themselves pretty generally through the city, about as soon as we were fairly landed, some to see dear friends, others to see the sights, others, we should judge by the way they came back loaded, to get peaches, melons, pears, and other good things to eat. For the credit of the whole company, let me now say, tliat I have not THE RIVEK AND THE SOUND. 61 seen or smelt a di-op of intoxicating liquor since we started from home, among om- comi^any. I take great pride in jjublishing this fact to the world, and espec- ially to that part of it who think it necessary to use it as a medicine, or in order to enjoy a social excur- sion. We know, or think, that* a pleasanter or hajjpier party cannot be found. Steamer "City of New London," JSFeio York, August 15, 1869. ,EW YORK cannot be looked uj^on as a de- su-able place in which to spend a hot, un- comfortable Sunday. With its dust and tm-moil, its endless excitement, and constant flow of brain-crazinof experience and incident, the vast metropolis cannot be viewed, even on week days, as an inviting point for pleasure seekers, such as form our goodly company. Had om' committee of arrangements been able to fore- see the height to which the mercury would attain, this portion of om* time would, doubtless, have been 6 62 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. spent in some cooler port. However, the cruise, thus far, has been fraught with so mucli of real pleasure for all oiu" company, that we willingly overlook the discomforts of om* experience here. This morning, religious services, of a most interest- ing nature, were held on board our steamer, conducted by om- chaplain. Rev. G. J. Sanger, assisted by Rev. Mr. Cobb, of Noithampton ; the 2^i"esence of both of which gentlemen in our midst has added much to the charm of our voyage. Chaplain Sanger, basing his discoiirse on the most poetical text : " O, that I had the wings of a dove ; I would fly away and be at rest," — Ps. Ixv. : 6, — preached a most excellent and ap- propriate sermon. Remembering that his hearers had sought, in thus leaving their homes and business in the old Commonwealth, a few days of enjoyment in rest from their accustomed labors, the speaker grasped the idea, and made the central thought of his addi*ess the true rest for which the soul of man craves, and how that rest may be found. A report of the sermon would hardly be in place here, but it was a most pleas- ing discom'se for the listeners. The musical portions of the exercises were conducted by Mr. G. W. Elkins, of Worcester, while Miss Emma THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. 63 Upham presided at the piano. This, as may well be judged, formed a most pleasing featm-e of the services. At the close of these Sabbath exercises, nearly all of our party went on shore, ostensibly to attend the city chm-ches. The "smartest" and most popular clergymen, and the most magnificent church edifices were sought by many; but, in many cases, the houses of worship were found closed, and the would-be attendants found their way to Central Park and other points of interest about the city. In these warm days the morals of the metropo- lis, never too good, are left to run themselves, while the spiritual advisers, folloTvdng in the footsteps of Rev. Mr. MuiTay and other pleasure seekers, with valise, gun and fishing rod, travel ofi" to the Adirondacks, or, more soberly inclined, quietly rusticate by the seaside. As we walked over the city, we found quite a number of stores open, while the grogshops seemed di'iving an excellent business. This will, doubtless, sound strange to Massachusetts ears, as it looked strange to our Massa^ chusetts eyes. It might reasonably be judged that the class of people in New York who usually attend church on the Sabbath, have, either followed the footsteps of their pastors and "taken a vacation," or, in the absence of their preachers, degenerated into Sabbath breakers. 64 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. Lager beer saloons were crowded witli thirsty customers ; steamers, laden with pleasure-seekers, sailed up and down the river, bound to shore resorts or to the banks of the Hudson ; bands of music could be heard, and dancing paities seen on the decks of these steamers, as they bore their thoughtless bm'dens of New York's men and women out over the waters ; ball clubs were found play- ing "the national game," even in some of the public streets ; while feny boats, steam cars, horse cars, and omnibuses, all loaded to their fullest extent, pre- sented scenes which might well appear strange to our party, reared as they had been with such different views of life's duties, and of the Sabbath and its observance. We do nut claim perfection for the old Bay State, but we certainly believe that her customs and her record of daily life do not savor so strongly of the "pit" as do those of Gotham. In spite of the corruption manifest on eveiy hand", we have endeavored to sustain the name and credit of our honored city and State. Gathering on our steamer at night, we again joined in religious services. Rev. Mr. Cobb preached a practical sermon, which was listened to with deep interest by his heai'ers, fiom the text: "Becereful for nothing," — Phil, vi. : 4; — and he presented many truths with force and THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 65 distinctness, which, if applied to oiu- daily manner of living, might work much good. The evening services were a fit and pleasing close for the events of the day. Taking all things together, in spite of the oppressive heat and the discomforts of the day, w^e shall assuredly mark this as one of the most interesting and profitable thus far spent. It is our intention now to cast off from New York at midnight to-night, and, if wind and weather prove fau', you will soon hear fi-om us, with our steamer anchored in Newport harbor. yv. M. Steamer "City of New London." Newport, August 16, 1869. ?IGHT glad were om- party to leave the city of New York. We certainly shall not wish to stop again over Sunday in hot weather at a New York dock. We left there soon after midnight, this morning; the weather, we found, had suddenly changed, or we had been near that hot place we read of The sailing was fine and delightful ; all were as gay as larks and as hungiy as 6* 66 THE RIYER AXD THE SOUND. sharks, waiting as patiently as possible for breakfast. We all had eaten a very heaity meal, and we could see the squint in the steward's eye, as much as to say, you won't keep that breakfast long. The party crowded to the front pait of the deck to view the ocean scenery, and also to keep an eye on those that might fii-st give in to the rising of the waves and the rocking and rolling of the boat. Soon it was observed that now and then one of the party would begin to gi-ow pale about the mouth ; then, soon, a zig-zag movement towards the railing of the boat to look over ;■ then some friend would step up to hold the head gently over the railing, then ; it was then time for the well ones to shout, sing, and laugh ; this was kept up for about an hour and a half, the squad at the side of the boat increasing in numbers, till nearly all the party had successfully gone through the usual exercises on such in- teresting occasions. So few were unaffected that for a while it was difficult to find persons enough to hold the heads over the side. This state of things lasted for two long hours ; soon after the steward brought up a few bushels of crackers, ^-ith plenty of tea and coffee, and the trouble was over ; we resumed our several places, and "Richard was himself again." Well, it might have been interesting to the lookers-on to witness the scene, but it THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. 67 was anjlhing but fine to the participants. It is no easy matter to describe " sea sickness ; " it can be better felt than described. We arrived in this place abont half-past two o'clock this p. M. Newport is full; the hotels are full; the usual amount of flu-ting and snobbing are seen ; the splendid turn-outs and di'ives may be seen on the avenue in the early evening. Many of our party hu*ed carriages and took a diive "around the new road," which is about nine miles. It is a very pleasant ride of about two hoiu-s as the hacks drive here, and it is very fine ; most of the magnificent residences of the j^lace are found on this road. People who come here have not gone through the progi'amme till they have been over this road. We leave to-morrow for Rocky Point for a clam bake, and return here in the afternoon to stop over night. Wednesday morning we leave for "sweet home." We have a jJarty with us from Princeton who should not be omitted from the record. As we become more acquainted with each other the attachments are stronger; and we have none in our party we would like to part with till om' excursion is over, and the time comes for us to return to our usual avocations. w. .ai. 68 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. HOME AGAIN! Worcester, August 18. home again ! We are gratified at the great suc- cess of the excursion. We took our departiu'e from NeAvport at an early hour this morning, and arrived at the picturesque city of Norwich at about 9 a. m. Here we made a stop for two hom-s or more before proceeding further on our homeward journey, and finally reached Worcester at half-past two in the afternoon. Of course we could not break up this large and interest ing party without expressing om- gratitude to some of those who had contributed to the success of om* excursion. Last night we had om* farewell meeting in the cabin; which was crowded to its utmost capacity. For three hours we made speeches, told stories and sang. The literary and musical talent of our party was fairly developed, and in the evening manifestations ranged from grave to gay. The merriment was increased when one gentleman produced the basket of pears that had been demanded of him. The largest "pair" consisted of a couple of little colored chil- THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. 69 dren who had been snugly hid away in the bottom of the basket. The committee on resolutions reported the foUow- Whereas, We, members of the Coit Excm'siou party — not unmindful of Him who constantly watches over us, and to whom we are indebted for life and all its pleasures — having had a glorious time during our present excursion, feel tliat the promoters of our enjoyment deserve some ex- pression of our aj^preciation of then- efforts in om* behalf, therefore Resolved, That our unfeigned thanks and heart-felt grati- tude are due to Mr. George R. Peckham, our worthy j^resident, through whom we have been furnislied ^x\Xh owe intellectual entertainments ; Mr. William Mecorney, our faithful clerk and reporter ; Mr. Geo. W. Wheeler, oitr treasui'er, who accepts the responsible position of receiving and paying out our money, besides othermse contributing largely to the pleasure of our party ; Mr. Henry Glazier, om* faithful steward, who has successfully and satisfactorily provided for our tables, and exercised a constant watchful- pess that all should be cared for ; and all other officers of om' i^arty for theii" efforts in om* behalf. Resolved, That the Rev. Mr. Sanger, for his faithful ser- ^dces as chaplain and excellent discourse on Sabbath morn- ing, and the Rev. Mr. Cobb, for his interesting and practi- cal addi'ess on Sabbath evening, have endeared themselves to us, and will long be remembered. Resolved, That om' thanks are due to Dr. Edwin Scho- field, for his faithful attention to those who have needed his professional services during the excursion. Resolved, That we duly appreciate the effoi«ts of Mr. Elkins, Ml-, and Mrs. Maynard, Miss Winslow, Miss War- ren, and others of our party who ha^'e contributed to our enjoyment so largely by their musical performances. 70 THE RIVER AND THE SOUND. Mesolved, That we are largely indebted to Capt. Brown and the other officers and crew of the steamer City of N'eio London, for the pleasure and enjoyment of our trip. Resolved, That we are under great obligations to Mr. Julius Webb, and other officers of the steamboat company, for then- liberal action towards us, and their endeavors to promote the success of the excursion. Resolved, That we acknowledge the kindness of the officers in command at West Point for the courtesies ex- tended to oiu" party, and the extra military tactics for our special entertainment. Resolved, That our gratification with our present excur- sion can be expressed in no better way than by recommend- ing a similar trip for 1870. Responses followed, and an original song, written by one of the ladies, was sung by Mr. Elkins, to the tune of "John Brown," the whole company joining in the chonxs. We can truly say that this excursion has more than met the expectations of all who have shared in its decided suc- cess. We know of nothing that has hai:)pened to in the least mar the pleasure and happiness of oui' party. We have been gone eight days — have traveled over seven hun- dred miles — had our table furnished the veiy best the mai*- ket affords ; and the expense has been veiy small com- paratively. We had also quite a fund left which we are to distribute among ovir party. Our arrival at the station in Worcester was the occasion of some hearty cheering, and THE EIVER AND THE SOUND. 71 we crossed the old common singing " Home, Sweet Home." The Spy has been hailed with delight, whenever and wherever we have found it on the route. av. m. SONG OF THE EXCURSIONISTS. We have come from Worcester city, in the famous old Bay State ; At least two hundred sixty souls, inclndino; small and ^reat; Our steamer bears us swift along, a gay and goodly freight — As we go sailing on. Glory, glory, &c. We have seen the crested billows of the foamy, flashing brine ; We have seen the northern river, with its towns and cities fine; We have seen the glorious Highlands, crowned with cedar and with pine. As we go sailing on. Glory, glory, &c. Some have told us of the beauties of the far-off storied Ehine, With its castles and its gardens in the countrj'' of the vine ; But thy claims, O charming Hudson, we will never more resign. As we went sailing on. Glory, glory, &c. We have seen the modern Babel, with its countless domes and spires ; With its palaces, and hovels where the light of hope expires ; With its missions, and its heathen whose hard lot our pity fires, As we go sailing on. Glory, glory, &c. 72 THE EIVER AND THE SOUND; Though we've paid relentless Neptune without stint his full demand, We will give to all their honest dues without a sparing hand, Through rough or smooth, through hot or cold, we've still a happy band. As we go sailing on. Glory, glory, &c. As we hasten on our journey in pursuit of health and rest, There's a joyous thought unbidden springs in every loyal breast; — We've a broad and glorious country — 'tis the one we love the best, As we go sailing on. Glory, glory, &c. K- THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. Series 9482 3 1205 02528 6947 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 876135 5